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If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Brazil and the river Plate in 1868 - -Author: William Hadfield - -Release Date: September 2, 2016 [EBook #52965] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE IN 1868 *** - - - - -Produced by Richard Tonsing, Donald Cummings, Adrian -Mastronardi and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team -at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive/American -Libraries.) - - - - - - -[Illustration: Dr. Gunning's House, overlooking the Valley of Macacos] - - - - - BRAZIL - AND - THE RIVER PLATE - IN 1868: - - - BY - WILLIAM HADFIELD, - - - SHOWING THE PROGRESS OF THOSE COUNTRIES SINCE HIS FORMER VISIT IN 1853. - -[Illustration] - - LONDON: - BATES, HENDY AND CO., 4, OLD JEWRY, E.C. - 1869. - - ENT. STA. HALL. - - - - - DUNLOP & CO., PRINTERS, - King's Head Court, Shoe Lane, E.C. - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - THE VOYAGE OUT 9 - - THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO 25 - - THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO 31 - - THE WAR IN PARAGUAY 45 - - THE PROVINCE OF SAN PAULO 51 - - THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY 55 - - THE CITY OF SAN PAULO 66 - - SAN PAULO TO SANTOS AND RIO DE JANEIRO 83 - - TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA.—THE DON PEDRO SEGUNDO RAILWAY 86 - - RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE RIVER PLATE, SECOND TRIP 99 - - CITY OF BUENOS AYRES 103 - - BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA—ESTANZUELLA 107 - - TRIP ON THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY 112 - - THE WESTERN RAILWAY OF BUENOS AYRES 125 - - BUENOS AYRES—SECOND NOTICE 131 - - PROGRESS OF STEAM NAVIGATION ON LA PLATA 142 - - RAILWAYS IN THE RIVER PLATE 146 - - EMIGRATION TO BRAZIL 154 - - EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE 158 - - RAILWAYS IN BRAZIL 164 - - COMMERCE OF BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE 173 - - THE RIVER AMAZON 185 - - TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATIONS 197 - - RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS 200 - - THE AFFLUENTS OF LA PLATA 203 - - THE REPUBLIC OF PARAGUAY 206 - - BRAZILIAN CURRENCY 217 - - ARGENTINE FINANCES 231 - - THE PORT AND HARBOUR OF SANTOS 239 - - THE VOYAGE HOME 245 - - APPENDIX OF OFFICIAL AND OTHER DOCUMENTS 253 - - - - - ERRATA. - - - Page 132.—For Club “El Temple” read “Del Parque.” - - Page 167.—Transpose in table words “Revenue” and “Working.” - - Page 169.—For “£150,000” read “£15,000.” - - - - - PREFACE. - - -This work makes no pretentions to literary merit, but, as its title -indicates, is simply a narrative descriptive of the progress of the -countries specially referred to, which, though England has long -maintained intimate commercial relations with them, are still but very -imperfectly known to the British public. In the Old World generations -follow each other without any very perceptible alteration being -observable in the characteristic surroundings, but in the New World, as -America is still termed, a few years often effect changes of the most -important and striking description. This is notably the case as respects -Brazil and the River Plate, the growth of which has been very -remarkable. - -Since the year 1854, when my former work was published, a large amount -of English capital has been invested in various enterprises connected -with Brazil and the River Plate, and particularly for the construction -of railways, the formation of banks, and the promotion of steam -navigation on the great Rivers communicating with the interior. If the -results have not, in several instances, proved wholly satisfactory as -regards the distribution of dividends, the fact is in a considerable -degree, if not entirely, owing to mismanagement of some kind or other; -and I think there can be no doubt that a prosperous future yet lies -before all the companies in question. On the other hand, large gains -have been secured, showing that those regions present a profitable and -wide field for the further employment of our surplus capital. - -The commercial tendencies of Brazil and the Platine States are most -liberal, and their policy is the very opposite of that pursued under the -exclusive domination of Portugal and Spain. The Empire, not long since, -received the approval of all civilised nations for its decree opening up -the waters of the noble Amazon to free commerce, and the unrestricted -navigation of the upper riverine streams will be one of the chief -advantages the victory of the allies in the present war will confer upon -mankind. - -The extent of territory embraced within the limits of Brazil, and what -are commonly called the Platine States, cannot easily be realised by -those who have never travelled out of Europe; and it is equally -difficult to convey any adequate idea of their wonderful fertility and -productiveness. Nature has blessed them with her choicest gifts, and, to -take the highest rank amongst the nations, their sole want is increased -population; and this is precisely what overcrowded Europe can very well -spare. I am glad to be able to state that the respective Governments are -fully impressed with the necessity of adopting comprehensive and -effective measures with a view to attracting emigrants to their shores. - -My intended movements during my visit were much interfered with by the -cholera in the Plate and the protracted duration of hostilities in -Paraguay, but I was enabled to satisfy myself of the complete -realisation in 1868 of my most sanguine predictions in 1853. - - - - - BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE - - IN - - 1868. - - - - - THE VOYAGE OUT. - - -A beaten track does not present the same novelty as a fresh one, except -in the case of countries in what is still termed the New World, and -which are again about to be described. It was in 1853 I last visited -Brazil and the River Plate, and published my observations upon them. An -interval of fifteen years has wrought many changes and produced -wonderful progress there, and if the Southern portion of the American -Continent has not kept pace with the Northern it may be chiefly ascribed -to the continued great influx of emigrant population to the latter from -all parts of Europe, but consisting chiefly of the Anglo-Saxon race. -From this cause, even the loss of at least a million of American -citizens by the great civil war has caused no perceptible diminution in -the American census, because it is constantly replenished from Europe. -The African race has, however, come to the surface in a most -unlooked-for manner, their shackles having been removed by a violent -shock, which has, for a time at least, caused great social disturbance, -and left the Southern States more or less at the mercy of the “niggers,” -as the blacks are generally termed. What may be the ultimate result, or -how things will “settle down,” is yet a problem to be solved. Meantime, -slavery in Brazil remains a domestic institution, but it is doomed to -inevitable extinction. The process of emancipation will be watched with -much interest by all who desire to see the Brazilian Empire rise to the -position it is capable of attaining. The tide of emigration to Brazil, -spite of this disadvantage, has, however, fairly set in, and the subject -will be treated of in its proper place. Happily, in the River Plate -there exists no such hindrance to the development of free labour, for -which it also presents a boundless field, and it will be the study of -the writer to show how a portion, at all events, of the surplus -population of Europe can be located there, to the great advantage of -those who embrace the opening as well as of the country itself, whose -chief and most urgent want is labour. The Paraguayan war and the -terrible ravages of the cholera have been a great drawback to internal -improvement in the Argentine Republic, but it is gratifying to think -that the encouraging picture drawn by the writer on his first visit to -the Plate has been more than realised—the motto of the Platine States -should now be “_Peace and Progress_.” The “log” of an outward-bound -passenger on board an ocean steamer now possesses but little interest; -still, a record of the changes which have taken place in the means of -transit since my last voyage, made fifteen years ago, may be worthy of -notice, and will also afford information to those who contemplate a trip -to Brazil or the River Plate. Success does not always attend even the -best organised and most promising enterprises, but all experience had -even then proved that there was ample scope for the employment of -capital in promoting intercourse by means of steam with those countries -that can only be reached by crossing the ocean. The South American -Company, with which at that time I was connected, started under -unfortunate circumstances. Ships were high in price, and rates of fuel -were exorbitant by reason of the Crimean War. They lost in addition two -of their steamers in a most unlooked-for manner, which sadly deranged -their operations; but emphatically the two grave errors committed by the -company were, first, in building more ships than they could raise -capital to pay for; and, secondly, in abandoning the line after their -experience had thus been paid for, and at the very moment when the -traffic was becoming lucrative; for there can be no question that had -they continued to run their steamers, instead of being seduced by the -tempting terms of charter offered by Government, they would now have -been in existence as a powerful company, paying good dividends. This was -not to be however, and on the abandonment of the line, the Royal Mail -Company was left without a competitor, and so enabled to realise large -profits. Had this latter company read rightly the signs of the times, or -met the requirements of _commerce_ by despatching a steamer once a month -from Liverpool, alternately with their regular mail from Southampton, -they would not only have made more money, but to a considerable extent -rendered themselves independent of Government subsidies. Their monopoly -was exercised injuriously for the interests of the countries they were -trading to, of which the French Emperor had the sagacity to take -advantage, by subsidizing a company from Bordeaux, which has continued a -most successful career, for it cannot be disputed that French steam -navigation and the development of French commerce are almost entirely -due to his Imperial Majesty's remarkable prescience. As a natural -consequence of increased facilities the passenger traffic with Brazil -and the River Plate has wonderfully increased, and at times both lines -are inconveniently crowded, the French one being for some reason -preferred by South Americans and foreigners. Subsequently some -unsuccessful attempts were made to establish other steam lines to -Brazil. What was termed the Brokers' line was started from Liverpool to -the River Plate, but it was not until Messrs. Lamport and Holt took the -business in hand that private steam navigation was established on a firm -basis from that port, and the fine fleet of the astronomical line now -supersedes to a considerable extent the use of sailing ships. They have -also entered into a contract with the British Government to despatch a -mail steamer on the 20th of every month, the first (the Hipparchus) -having left Liverpool on the 20th August last. Last on the list comes -what is now generally known as “Tait's” line, on board one of the -steamers of which, the City of Limerick, I am now embarked. They are -fine steamers, with superior accommodation for first-class passengers at -very moderate rates. A line from London, calling at Falmouth, has long -been a favourite project, which Messrs. Tait have at length carried into -effect with every prospect of success. They have wisely appreciated the -growing requirements of population in Brazil and the River Plate, and -are preparing to convey a number of third-class passengers by their -steamers at a cheap rate. By confining their operations to Rio de -Janeiro and the River Plate they are enabled to land goods and -passengers at Monte Video and Buenos Ayres under 30 days. The importance -of this line has been greatly enhanced by the contract entered into with -the Belgian Government, under which the steamers are to call at Antwerp -on their way out and home, the latter after landing passengers at -Falmouth.[1] - -This brief reference to the progress of steam navigation to Brazil and -the River Plate will show the growth of passenger traffic during the -last few years, and sufficiently indicate the great increase of commerce -with these countries, not only as regards Great Britain, but also as -respects continental ports, which will be more clearly illustrated in -later portions of this volume; meantime, as an index to passenger -traffic, it is my intention to obtain statistics from the different -companies, and to present them in a table which will speak for itself. I -may further remark that a steam company has been formed to run from -Marseilles to the River Plate, and another between the United States and -Brazil, the latter with a subsidy from these two Governments, which -cannot fail to be mutually advantageous, and to promote the great object -of emigration. Altogether a very large amount of capital is employed in -linking this portion of the old world and the new by means of steam -navigation. That it will further increase no one can doubt, particularly -should the tide of emigration from Europe set in freely towards those -countries, as I firmly believe will soon be the case. - -And now we are moving along towards St. Vincent,—expecting to pass the -island of Madeira to-morrow (24th December), five days out from -Falmouth, almost entirely under steam, a breeze from the north-west, -which favoured us for 24 hours after leaving Falmouth, having gradually -headed us. The speed of the vessel under steam only is 9 to 10 knots, -but if we catch a good trade wind our progress southward ought to be -very rapid. The City of Limerick is an excellent sea boat and all is -very comfortable on board. My order of proceeding this time will still -be something in the narrative form, as more adapted to the task I have -set myself of recording the progress made, and the changes that have -taken place since my last short visit to South America in 1853. - -_December 24th._—Passed close to the westward of Madeira, the island -being enveloped in dense masses of black clouds, which poured forth -their liquid streams, forming some dozen cascades of all sizes, one -being conspicuous, reaching from the very top of the mountain down to -the sea. No one would imagine the beauty and fertility of this island to -judge from its western aspect, so different from the south-eastern side, -which is well cultivated, and presents very pleasing views as you -approach in that direction the Bay of Funchal. Madeira has changed very -little I believe of late years, nor is it likely to do so with absurd -quarantine laws in existence, which prevent vessels calling, and limits -the number of visitors. The cultivation of sugar cane succeeded that of -the vine, after the destruction of the latter, about the time of my -former visit to the island, but to the detriment of its sanatory -condition, as the refuse canes were allowed to rot, and impregnated the -atmosphere offensively; otherwise, in its former glory of vines and fig -trees, the island was a little garden of Hesperides. Now that real -Madeira wine has become a scarce commodity connoisseurs praise it -extensively, and it is to be hoped a few years will enable the island -again to supply a genuine article instead of the spurious trash commonly -sold under the name of Madeira wine. The real thing is only to be found -in choice old cellars, and no doubt a glass of it is a very great treat. - -_Christmas Day, 1867._—Spent this day on the “deep blue sea,” with a -steady north-east trade blowing, which carries us swiftly along, and, if -all goes well, we shall reach St. Vincent on Saturday by daylight, so as -to get into the harbour and coal during the night. Nine days from -Falmouth will be a very good passage. The weather has become warm, with -bright sunny days and starlight nights, the days lengthening as we -proceed southward. Certainly the change from an English winter is very -sensibly felt, and must exercise a beneficial influence on the human -frame. All traces of sea sickness have vanished from those of the -passengers who were afflicted with it during the first few days, and -they are now on deck, basking in the sunshine, but they will soon -require the protection of awnings, as we shall then be within the -tropics. Different opinions exist as to the comparative comfort of the -paddle-wheel and screw. I prefer the latter, irrespective of its -economy, as advantage can be taken of every favouring breeze, and except -with the wind right aft, a screw steamer is steadier than a paddle wheel -one. Many object to the continual thud of the screw and to the tremulous -motion of the ship, but the latter is less felt in screw steamers than -formerly, from the application of improved machinery and the placing of -the screw well down in the water. On the other hand, the continual -plunging of paddle wheels is tiresome, and they keep up a certain amount -of spray which is not experienced with the screw. It is quite true that -a ship is a thing “you never can be quiet in,” whether propelled merely -by sails, by paddle, or by screw—as everyone knows who has had -experience, but this does not prevent sleep, or indulgence at times in -that _dolce far niente_ which is supposed to belong only to dwellers on -land, under the soothing influence of an Italian sky. After all, how -much we are indebted to steam, not only for comfort, but for our -knowledge of distant countries. I remember several voyages made to -Brazil in my early days, when 20 to 30 days were often taken to -accomplish what we did yesterday in five days,—namely, passing the -island of Madeira to gain the north-east trades. - -_St. Vincent._—Saturday evening, the 28th December, brought us safely -into Porto Grande, the great coaling harbour for steamers bound to the -South Atlantic, and where as many as twenty steamers a month are now -coaled from the coaling establishment of Mr. Miller (also her Majesty's -Consul for the Cape Verde Islands), who has at great expense built a -high and low level pier, with large coal stores, a number of iron -lighters and screw tugs which are employed to tow the coal barges -alongside the steamers; in fact, it is impossible for anything to be -more complete than the coaling arrangements here, which admit of sending -off about 700 tons a day. Three vessels had to be coaled during Sunday, -and two got away by night—ourselves, and a French steamer, bound from -Marseilles to Brazil and the River Plate, with about 550 emigrants on -board, chiefly for the River. We left, to complete her coaling the next -day, the splendid new steamer the Sumatra, Captain Brown, belonging to -the Pacific and Oriental Company, bound out to India, to take up her -station between Bombay and Suez; she is 2,500 tons, and 500 horse power, -both built by Denny Brothers, of Dumbarton. She has accommodation of the -most luxurious kind for 150 first-class passengers, and is equipped in a -most perfect manner. St. Vincent is her only coaling port between -England and Bombay, and this was merely a matter of precaution, as she -had on board sufficient to take her to India. A Russian screw corvette -with a number of training cadets on board was also at anchor in the Bay -when we arrived, but she sailed away southward about noon on Sunday. -With the increasing demand for steam traffic to the southern hemisphere, -the importance of Porto Grande as a coaling station cannot be overrated. -We expected to have picked up some news from Brazil and the River Plate, -but unfortunately the Royal Mail Company's steamer Seine (overdue a -week) had not arrived, and various surmises were raised as to the cause -of this unusual delay, which we shall only learn later on. The Brazil -and River Plate Service, both by the above company and the French -Messageries Imperiales, has been for many years performed with great -regularity. Owing to the many steamers calling at St. Vincent, a good -supply of fresh meat, fruit, eggs, &c., can now be obtained there, -brought from the neighbouring islands, as St. Vincent itself continues -as barren of verdure as ever. The town has extended itself somewhat, -several new public buildings having been erected, including a Custom -House, and some pretty cottages on the hill overlooking the harbour, for -the use of Mr. Miller's numerous establishments. For the information of -such of my readers as may not be conversant with the Cape Verde Islands, -I reprint my remarks upon them contained in my former work already -alluded to, as I shall also continue to do in other places, for a -similar reason, besides the additional one of diffusing information as -to countries with which we are so intimately linked by commercial and -political ties. A submarine cable, connecting these Islands with Madeira -and Lisbon, would be very useful, and will most probably come in time, -as a link in the chain of our communications with South America and the -coast of Africa. Its existence would shorten the time of receiving and -transmitting news between England and Brazil very considerably, and the -evils arising from such an event as the detention or loss of the Seine -be greatly mitigated:— - - The Cape Verds consist of seven principal islands, and were - tolerably populous, but of late years have been subjected to a - continuous emigration to South America and the West Indies, where, - like the hardy mountaineers from Madeira, they are found most useful - in tilling the soil, and in other laborious occupations; thus - demonstrating the fallacy of the old notion, that laziness is the - predominant element in the Spanish and Portuguese idiosyncrasy. What - appears to be a present disadvantage, in regard to this human flight - from the Verds, may prove beneficial hereafter, when the Ilheos (as - they are called) return to their homes, possessed of a little money - wherewith to improve their social and moral condition. The islands - produce wine, barilla, large quantities of orchilla weed, and - cochineal, the cultivation of which is rapidly forming a more and - more considerable item of export. Steam navigation will ere long - bring them into much closer commercial contact with the world, and - enhance the appreciation of their products and natural advantage. - The climate is fine, though subject to occasional high temperature - and frequent droughts. Despite the name Verds, suggestive of - Arcadian animation, nothing can be more desolate than the appearance - of the islands, as approached from the sea; bold, high rocks, - against which the surge breaks violently, with mountains towering in - the clouds, are general characteristics, to which those of the - island of St. Vincent offer no exception. On our arrival the weather - was thick, with drizzling rain, as we made Porto Grande; and only - cleared up in time to enable us to see Bird Island, a most - remarkable sugar-loaf rock, standing right in the entrance of the - bay, after passing which we reached the anchorage ground in a few - minutes. A more convenient little harbour can hardly be imagined, - being nearly surrounded with hills (or mountains as they may be - called), which protect it from all winds save the westward, where - Bird Island stands as a huge beacon, most admirably adapted for a - lighthouse, and on which it is to be hoped one will soon be placed. - There is deep water close to the shore on most sides of the bay, - that where the town is built being the shallowest; and here some - wooden jetties are run out, having very extensive coal and patent - fuel _depôts_ close at hand where these combustibles are put into - iron lighters, and sent off to the vessels. So beautifully clear is - the water in the bay that you can see the bottom at a depth of from - twenty to thirty feet, literally alive with fish of all kinds, but - for which the people seem to care very little, either for home - consumption or export, though there is no doubt that, in the latter - direction, a large business might be done with profitable results. - - Porto Grande must become a most important coaling station, situated - as it is midway between Europe and South America, and close to the - African coast. Several important steam companies have already - adopted it, viz., the Royal Mail (Brazil), the General Screw, the - Australian, as also the South American, and General Steam Navigation - Company, whilst occasional steamers are, likewise, glad to touch at - it. At the period at which I am writing, the Great Britain was the - last that coaled here, on her way to Australia. In order to meet - this increased demand, a proportionate degree of activity and - exertion is observable onshore; and a large number of iron lighters, - carrying from fifteen to forty tons each, are now in constant - requisition, loaded, and ready to be taken alongside the steamers - the instant they cast anchor. Unfortunately there is a very poor - supply of water, the want of it having been the occasion of frequent - emigration in the history of the islands; but it is understood to be - attainable at a slight expense; and a small outlay conjointly made - by the steam companies might not only procure a plentiful provision - of this all-necessary element, but also other conveniences, - essential to the comfort of passengers. There is no doubt that, as - the place progresses, supplies of meat, fruit, and vegetables will - be forwarded thither from the neighbouring islands, which are so - productive that there is a considerable export of corn; and the - cattle are numerous. Until lately fowls were only a penny a piece; - and turtles abound. Hitherto there has been no regular marketable - demand for such things; but one, and a large one too, is henceforth - established, from the causes assigned, and will doubtless be - regularly and economically supplied. The labourers here are chiefly - free blacks and Kroomen, from the coast of Africa, most of whom - speak English, and chatter away at a great rate, as they work in - gangs, with a kind of boatswain over them, who uses a whistle to - direct their toil—the movements of all the race of Ham to the days - of Uncle Tom, being seemingly susceptible of regulation to musical - noise of some sort or other; whether the “concord of sweet sounds,” - or what would appear to be such to more refined ears, does not - greatly matter. - - But for want of vegetation in its neighbourhood, a more picturesque - little bay than Porto Grande can hardly be conceived. Towering a - short distance above the town, is a kind of table mountain, some - 2,500 feet high; and at the opposite side, forming the south-west - entrance, is another very lofty one, remarkable as representing the - colossal profile of a man lying on his back, _à la_ Prometheus. He - has his visage towards heaven, wherein there are generally soaring - vultures enough to devour him up were he a trifle less tender than - volcanic granite. The features are perfect, even to the eyebrows; - and a very handsome profile it makes, though it does not appear that - any tropical Æschylus has yet converted the material to the humblest - legendary, much less epic, purpose. On the shore ground, forming the - right side of the bay, looking towards the town, is a neat little - monument, erected to the lamented lady of Colonel Cole, who died - here on her way home from India. The spot where she lies is, from - its quietude and seclusion, most meet for such a resting-place, - there being a small, conical hill behind, with a cottage or two - near, and a sprinkling of vegetation on the low ground between, - serving to “keep her memory green” in the mind of many an ocean - voyager in his halt at this half-way house between the younger and - the elder world. - - This little town was thrown back sadly by the epidemic which - afflicted it in 1850 and decimated the population. During its - continuance Mr. Miller, one of the few English residents, did so - much in assisting the inhabitants as to elicit from the late Queen - of Portugal the honour of a knighthood, in one of the first orders - in her dominions. It requires no small degree of patience and - philanthropy to aid the development of a place like this, labouring, - as it does, under such great natural difficulties, and where - everything has to be brought from a distance, there not being a tree - or a blade of grass to be seen—nothing but dry, arid sand, or a - burnt-up kind of soil. Undoubtedly, the heat is very great at times; - and there are about three months of blowing, rainy weather, which is - the only period when vessels might be subjected to inconvenience - whilst coaling, as the southerly winds drive up a good deal of sea - into the bay. There is an English Consul resident here, Mr. Rendall, - who has done much to assist in bringing these islands into notice, - and into comparative civilization; and, by so doing, has many times - over reimbursed this country in the cost of his stipend of £400 a - year, saying nothing of the services he has performed to shipping, - in the ordinary discharge of his duties. - - Cape Verds are a very numerous family of islands, called after a - cape on the African coast (originally named Cabo Verde, or Green - Cape, by the Portuguese), to which they lie contiguous, though at a - considerable distance from each other in some cases. All are of - volcanic formation—one, that of Fogo, or Fuego, once very celebrated - as being visible, especially in the night time, at an immense - distance at sea. The islands generally do not possess any very - attractive points, being unlike Madeira and the Canaries in this - respect, as well as in extent of population, that of the latter - being four or five times more numerous than the others—say about - 200,000 in one, 40,000 in the other case, though some statements - make the inhabitants of the Verds considerably more. The islands are - occasionally subject to shocks of earthquakes; and there was rather - a strong one at Porto Grande the night before we left, supposed on - board our vessel to be thunder, from the noise it made, though we - were not aware until next day that a shock had been felt on shore. - The chief product is salt, a valuable article for vessels trading to - South America, though it is here manufactured by the somewhat - primitive process of letting the sea-water into the lowlands, where - the sun evaporates it. Though Porto Grande, in St. Vincent, is the - great place for shipping, and as such almost the only place of - interest for passengers in transit, Ribera Grande, in St. Jago, the - principal island, and most southerly of the group, is the chief - town, though it is at Porto Playa (often touched at by ships on the - Indian voyage) that the Governor General resides, particularly in - the dry season. The island second in importance, in point of size, - is St. Nicholas, where are some small manufactories, in the shape of - cotton-stuffs, leather, stockings, and other matters. The orchilla - weed, however, is the great object of governmental interest, and its - monopoly is said to yield some £60,000 per annum; the same wise - policy that grasps at that interdicting the manufacture of wine, - though grapes grow in profusion, and are of excellent quality for - the production of a very acceptable beverage. - -_December 31st, 1867._—The last day of the old year is an event that -calls for reflection and particularly at sea, when the mind is generally -more open than elsewhere to receive impressions, and free to take into -review the past—to enquire how the time has been spent. Few of us, -probably, can answer this question satisfactorily, but at all events it -is desirable to make the enquiry. There is no postman's knock at the -door, no friends to see, nor any to seek us out. Our little world is the -ship on which we are sailing, and those within it, the greater part of -whom have been utter strangers to each other previous to embarkation. -Selfishness under such circumstances finds its level, or is confined -within very narrow bounds, and a common instinct draws every one -together, until at the end of the voyage, when those who are only -passengers part, and go each on his several mission, few in all -likelihood ever to meet again in their various walks in life. Most leave -friends behind, whom they look forward to rejoining, or they have -friends to welcome them in the new countries to which they are speeding -their way. The great ocean brings strikingly home to us the wondrous -works of the Almighty Ruler of the Universe, and the littleness of man -himself. Again, we are apt to forget the immensity of the ocean, which, -as compared with the land, is computed at 145¾ million of statute miles -against 51 million square statute miles of land, or a total of both of -196¾ millions. A little incident occurred this morning in our meeting -the screw steamer Uruguay (which signalised twenty days out from the -River Plate), one of the Liverpool line of steamers, making her way to -St. Vincent to coal, and she will, no doubt, report us at home. Time did -not afford opportunity for exchanging news, which would have been very -acceptable on both sides. We also passed an American ship steering -northward, being now in the track of vessels homeward bound, 10° 30´ -north latitude and 26° 30´ east longitude; a fine steady breeze driving -us, with the aid of the screw, fully eleven knots an hour. - -_January 4th, 1868._—We have crossed the line, gone through the -variables, and are in the south-east trades. The air is cool and -pleasant, and the ship making nearly twelve miles an hour, with a smooth -sea and little motion—the perfection of sailing. There is a freshness -about the Southern hemisphere which I have always enjoyed. Steady -breezes and a clear sky, with light fleecy clouds. We passed several -vessels yesterday standing to the northward, amongst them a fine Yankee -screw corvette, which hoisted her number, but she was not in our signal -book. Less than another week of this weather will take us into Rio de -Janeiro, in somewhat over 20 days, which will be a very good passage, -and we have certainly been very much favoured in having fair, moderate -weather, with scarcely any rain, and no squalls. The great advantage of -steam over sailing ships is not only much quicker passages, but running -out of calms or variable winds, and making a straight course to the -point of destination. - -_January 10th, 1868._—We made Cape Frio light, off Rio de Janeiro, about -midnight, and came into harbour early this morning, twenty-one and a -half days from Falmouth. After the usual formalities in connection with -the health and custom-house departments, we steamed up to the coal -island, and were soon moored alongside, ready for coaling and -discharging cargo. There were fewer ships in the bay than I ever -remember to have seen. Her Majesty's store-ship Egmont was lying there, -and one or two other vessels of war. A splendid Spanish frigate, the -Blanca, which had participated in the bombardment of Valparaiso, steamed -out of harbour as we came in, but whither bound no one could say. On -going on shore I found the landing place not much improved, and the -custom-house formalities had increased in rigour, extending even to a -charge on the small quantity of luggage required for a change whilst on -shore. It is a mistake in an enlightened country like Brazil to subject -passengers to such absurd regulations, which can bring in very little -revenue and get the country a bad name. In other respects little or no -restriction is experienced in going to or from the ship, either day or -night. We found the news from the seat of war unsatisfactory as regards -its progress, and, what was worse, we learned that the cholera was -raging at Buenos Ayres, vessels from the River Plate being placed in -quarantine on arrival at Rio; but the latter city was healthy, -notwithstanding the great heat which, during the two days we remained in -harbour, was most intense, the thermometer in the shade being over 90°. -Working all night enabled the steamer to be ready to start again on -Sunday morning, the 12th January, when we again sailed from Rio on our -way to the River. - ------ - -Footnote 1: - - Since writing the above, Messrs. Tait have parted with their exclusive - interest in the line to a limited company, with a very influential - board of direction, and of which Mr. Peter Tait is himself the - chairman. No doubt this will lead to a yet more vigorous prosecution - of an enterprise which has already and thus early secured so large a - share of commercial patronage and support. - - - - - THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO. - - -Seeing the accounts at Rio were not encouraging, I was advised to delay -my trip southward, but as the River Plate was my ultimate destination, -and my business pressing, I was desirous to reach Buenos Ayres as -quickly as possible, taking Rio Janeiro on my return. So I continued on -board the steamer, which left Rio on Sunday morning, the 12th January, -1868, and we came to anchor in Monte Video harbour at 1 p.m. on the -16th—a very good passage of four days and a few hours. The weather had -been hot during the passage, giving us a foretaste of what we might look -for here. The health inspector did not come off to us for three hours, a -very annoying delay after the captain of a steamer has done his best to -get quickly to his port, and to whom, as well as to his owners, hours -are of consequence; but not so to officials in these countries. I -believe I surmised correctly that the health officer was at dinner when -we arrived, that he would take his siesta, and then come to look after -us. As it was then getting past business hours, I preferred remaining -cool and quiet on board the ship, but several of our passengers went on -shore, and passed the night there, as it is difficult to get off after -dark. The budget of news we received from the agents, who came on board -after the health visit, made me wish I had taken the wise advice of Rio -friends. The cholera was raging at Buenos Ayres and throughout the -Argentine Republic, and appeared to be bad enough at Monte Video, in -addition to which a revolution had broken out at Santa Fé against the -Government, the rebels having actually got possession of Rosario, as -well as some portion of the railway, whose metals they had partly torn -up at one of the bridges, throwing them into the river below. It is -difficult to account for this kind of wanton mischief, unless it was to -show their contempt for civilized means of transit, for having reached -Rosario, their policy should have been to keep the line open as a means -of retreat in case of need, and then to have taken up the rails to -impede troops who might be following them. I found Mr. and Mrs. -Wheelwright at the Oriental Hotel, Monte Video, a new and handsome -building erected since my last visit, and worthy any city in Europe, but -unfortunately several of the inmates died of cholera there and it was -afterwards deserted. The Oriental was full when we arrived, but we found -comfortable quarters at the Gran Hotel Americano, also a large and -handsome edifice lately built, nor can anything more strongly mark the -advance of Monte Video than these two hotels in addition to those -previously existing. The impressions conveyed in my former narrative as -to the development of Monte Video were favourable, but I hardly expected -to see the place grown half as large again since that time, which -certainly is the case. Building of late years has taken extraordinary -proportions here, and the price paid for choice spots in the city is -something fabulous. Then again the streets have been all paved and -flagged—roughly enough it must be confessed, but still they appear to -answer the purpose for the peculiar description of traffic over them, -and are a great improvement upon the sand and mud which existed before. -During the few days I remained at Monte Video, everything was in a very -miserable state, the mortality increasing and the telegrams from Buenos -Ayres quite awful. I therefore resolved to return to Rio Janeiro, and -wait a more favourable moment for prosecuting my mission. The heat was -intense, and the minds of people so preoccupied with the pestilence as -to render it impossible to follow the object of my mission with any -chance of success. The City of Limerick came up from Buenos Ayres on the -morning of the 24th of January, and was released from quarantine in the -afternoon, when Captain Peters came on shore, and his report confirmed -my previous views as to returning to Rio; so at 5 p.m. I went on board -with him. We got under weigh at sunset, with a fresh breeze, and, -passing Flores light, were off Maldonado light about 3 p.m.—a nasty -navigation, with the island of Lobos dangerously near, on which there -ought also to be a light. Daylight took us to the open sea, and four and -a half days' steaming brought us again into Rio harbour on the morning -of Wednesday, the 5th of February, when we were put to quarantine in -what is called Three Fathom Bay, where we remained until the third -morning, when we were released and steamed to the coal wharf. - - * * * * * - -Precisely three months after my first arrival in Rio, I left it again to -return to the River Plate, whence the pestilence had departed and things -resumed more or less their usual appearance. Monte Video had, however, -been the scene of a dreadful tragedy—the murder of General Flores in -open day—and the subsequent terrible retribution which followed that -catastrophe. A gloom hung over the country, heightened by the impending -bank crisis, and it seemed as if the spirit of evil had taken possession -of the place. Whatever may have been the faults or errors of General -Flores, he deserved a better fate at the hands of his countrymen. In -forcing himself into power he only followed in the footsteps of others -who had resorted to this unconstitutional mode of proceeding. During his -dictatorship the country was perfectly tranquil and highly prosperous, -nor was a single life sacrificed by him, although he knew he had many -secret enemies. His personal courage was undoubted and evinced in many a -bloody encounter in Paraguay, where he appeared to wear a charmed life, -and had he been at all prepared the assassins might have found the old -man more than a match for them. Altogether, this sad event has created a -feeling in Monte Video which it will take long to recover from, nor is -any confidence felt in the ability of the present rulers to overcome the -difficulties of their position. It is a great pity so fine a country and -so fair a city should be sacrificed to objects of mere personal -ambition, and be the sport of every discontented chief or partisan who -chooses to set himself in array against the Government; but -unfortunately this is too much the case, nor do the people themselves -rise to put down such a state of anarchy. - -In alluding to the new buildings erected at Monte Video I omitted the -Bolsa or Exchange, which is quite an ornament to the city, with its -light, highly ornamented façade. The interior is of a quadrilateral -form, providing a spacious hall where the business of the place is -carried on, with brokers' offices on the ground floor, the upper storey -being devoted to a tribunal of commerce and other public purposes. The -cost of the building is stated at about 160,000 hard dollars, or £32,000 -sterling, an instance of public spirit hardly to be found elsewhere in -South America. - -The only thing wanting to Monte Video is business, in which respect the -contrast with Buenos Ayres is very much in favour of the latter. -Nevertheless, the banks have gone into considerable extravagance in the -way of architecture, the Italian Bank being conspicuous by a superfluity -of marble. Indeed, the facility for issuing notes has evidently led to -expenditure in “bricks and mortar” to an extent that must have greatly -embarrassed the managers of these institutions when called upon to meet -their paper in gold. - -As to the cause of the money crisis there cannot be two opinions. In the -first place, Government was wrong in allowing private issues of notes, -and in the second place, in interfering when it came to a question of -the banks meeting their notes in gold. A “forced currency,” as it was -then called, was sure to lead to a depreciation in the value of the -paper and only postponed the evil day. It was a curious sight to see a -guard of soldiers with fixed bayonets on duty round the doors of the -Italian Bank, and a crowd of people waiting outside to receive specie -payment of their notes. This process had already shut up several of the -banks, and there was little hope of saving the Italian Bank, although -great efforts were being made by the mercantile body to do so, as from -the large number of Italian tradesmen doing business with the bank -serious results might attend the closing of its doors. The wisest course -would have been for all the banks to have followed in the wake of Mauá -and Co. and closed their doors when they found themselves unable to meet -the pressure for gold. This would have brought about some remedial -action on the part of Government with a view to self-preservation. - -Amongst other public improvements at Monte Video is a large market, a -tramway for a few miles out of the city, and the commencement of a -railway intended eventually to reach Durazno, but at present only a few -miles can be completed, owing to the want of capital. Unfortunately, the -Government is not in a position to assist any enterprise of this kind, -spite of the large amount of Brazilian gold that has been poured into -the place during the war. Altogether, Monte Video has an ordeal to go -through that will require time and patience on the part of those who may -have to conduct its affairs. - -The Bay presents its usual animated appearance as regards the collection -of ships and steamers, and a large sprinkling of foreign men-of-war, -whose services have been much called into requisition of late, in order -to protect foreign property; but in other respects there is a total -absence of vitality or of actual business. - - - - - THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO. - - -It cannot be said in this case, as in most others, that - - “'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view;”— - -for the nearer you approach this far-famed city, the more sensible are -you to the beauties it unfolds. Strangers are always struck with the -singularly picturesque appearance of the land approaching Rio de -Janeiro, but once fairly in the bay they are bewildered at its great -extent, surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains of every possible -form, shape, and size, most of them clothed in luxuriant verdure to the -summit. No picture or representation I have seen of the Bay of Rio does -justice to the splendid panorama its scenery presents. Even those who -have often approached it from the sea, so far from being tired of -gazing, not only recognise old familiar points, but discover some new -feature in the fairy-like landscape that had before escaped their -notice. It varies very much according to the light and shade,—sunrise, -noonday, and sunset each possessing peculiar marks of delighting beauty. -In my former description of Rio occurs the following passage:— - - The city of Rio Janeiro extends some three miles along the - south-west side of the bay, and being much intersected by hills, it - is difficult to get a good view of the whole range, unless from the - top of one of the mountains near the city, such as the celebrated - “Corcovado,” which stands out like a pulpit on the plain below, and - is some 2,500 feet perpendicular. The view from this pulpit on a - clear day is superb, and I should almost say unequalled in the - world: the city, with its numerous divisions and suburbs below - you—the bay, extending as far as the eye can reach, until lost in - the plain below the Organ Mountain—the sea, studded with numerous - picturesque islands, with vessels looking like white specks upon it, - and seen to a great distance—all together form a most enchanting - picture, and amply repay the toil of an ascent. The mountain is of - granite rock, like all others in this country, but thickly wooded - almost to the summit, and you come out quite suddenly on the bare - point before alluded to, so much resembling a pulpit. In consequence - of the tortuous formation of the streets, constructed round the base - of the hills, it is difficult to get more than a bird's-eye view of - the city, on ground made by encroachment on the sea; consequently, - the streets are low, without drainage, and in several of the back - ones the water collects and stagnates, to the great detriment of - health and comfort. Rio itself is a bad copy of Lisbon—streets at - right angles, a large square facing the sea, and the suburbs - extending up the hills which everywhere meet your eye. In Lisbon the - streets are tolerably wide, but here they have built them so - miserably narrow, that scarcely even one carriage can pass through, - much less pass each other; and it is evident that such vehicles were - never contemplated in the original formation of these streets. The - only way of getting over the difficulty is for carriages coming into - the city to take one line of streets, and those leaving it another, - which they do, excluding omnibuses altogether from the principal - thoroughfares. Improvements in this way were what I found most - backward; indeed there was a marked falling-off in such respect - since I was last here, and there seems a great want of municipal - government.[2] In many places the pavement is execrable, and - generally very bad, the difficulty having been probably increased by - laying down mains for water and gas, the latter now in process of - execution, and also to heavy rains having washed away many parts of - the road, and otherwise caused much damage. Once this troublesome - job is got through, it is to be hoped that some effective measures - will be taken to put the streets and branch roads in order; - otherwise they will soon be rendered impassable. Coach and - coach-spring making must be thriving trades here, especially with - the immense increase that has taken place in the number of carriages - and omnibuses; and it is really wonderful how they stand the - continual shocks they have to endure.[3] Government seems at last - alive to the absolute necessity of doing something to improve the - sanitary condition of the city, and also its internal organization, - as they have lately got out some good practical English engineers, - who I have no doubt will suggest an effective mode of dealing with - present difficulties. If they do not adopt decisive measures the - rate of mortality may be expected to augment fearfully in a dense - population of 300,000 to 400,000 inhabitants, huddled together in - some 15,000 houses, surrounded by impurities of every kind, not the - least being the stagnant water in the streets. No exact census has - ever been taken of the population of Rio Janeiro, which is generally - believed to be between the two figures above given. There is a - migratory population, but the accumulation of humanity of every race - and colour, contained in some of the large dwelling-houses, is - something extraordinary. As before observed, nature has done much - for this country, and if the natural facilities of Rio Janeiro were - properly availed of, and local improvements carried out with energy - and spirit, it might be rendered one of the finest and most - luxuriant places within the tropics.[4] The opportunity is now open - to them; the Government possess ample means, and it is just a - question whether measures of progress are to be effectively - achieved, or the city to be abandoned to its fate. The great evil - attending all improvement in Brazil is an undue appreciation of - native capability and a disparagement or mistrust of those whose - practical experience would enable them to grapple with the - difficulties that surround them—a kind of little jealousy or - distrust that prevents their availing themselves of opportunities - thrown in their way to carry out undertakings necessary to the - well-being of the country: nor can they understand the principle on - which such things are regulated in England, still less the magnitude - of operations carried on there and in many other parts of Europe. - Yet the time seems to be coming when these principles will be better - understood here, and when the application of English capital towards - the improvement of the country may be safely and legitimately - brought to bear. - -I quote this in order to point out the increase of population and -improvements which have been carried out in the city since it was -written, and amongst which may be enumerated:— - - The paving of streets, drainage works, &c. - - Lighting the city with gas. - - Increased number of omnibuses, private carriages, and conveyances of - all kinds. - - Public gardens and ornamental squares. - - Railways and tramways. - -First, as regards the number of inhabitants, it is difficult to arrive -at correct figures in the absence of a census, but according to the -municipal authorities, the population of Rio and the suburbs (which -comprise a circuit of many miles) is now about 600,000. If building be -any criterion, the increase of population must be very considerable. -Since the period to which I allude, the city has extended itself in -every possible direction, for without actually climbing the mountains -there is a limit to building ground. The new streets are wide, and many -of the new buildings exhibit a beautiful style of architecture, very -suitable to the climate, especially in the suburbs. The number of shops -has largely increased, and they are generally nicely decorated. Some -public markets have been built, such as the Gloria, Harmonia, &c. -Property has also greatly risen in value, and fabulous prices have been -paid for land in the city favourably situated. The paving of the streets -has also been carried out most efficiently. All the leading -thoroughfares in and out of the city are now well paved, and in this -respect the road from the Public Gardens to Bota Fogo would compare -advantageously with any in Europe, that portion passing through the -Cattete being a perfect specimen of good paving. As to the drainage -works, they speak for themselves to those who recollect what Rio was -twenty years back, and the names of Brassey and Gotto will long be -remembered as public benefactors in this part of the world. I had not -time to examine these great works in detail, but shall avail of an -opportunity on my return to do so. Gas has been most successfully -introduced, both as regards quantity, quality, and usefulness, and it -must have been an enormous saving of trouble and expense in a country -where so many lights are required, and which was formerly dependent on -oil lamps and candles. Not only is the city well lighted, but every -suburb, miles in extent, thereby greatly adding to comfort and security. -Under these circumstances it will hardly be a matter of surprise that -the gas company pays a very good dividend. It has rather a curious -effect on some of the country roads to see gas lamps peeping out from -the thick foliage of tropical plants, as if in competition with the -fire-flies dancing about. - -Rio positively swarms with omnibuses, carriages, and Tilburys. The -former are plain enough in appearance, but are drawn by four mules at a -good speed. The carriages, which are manufactured on the spot, are -generally very superior in quality, with a couple of mules or horses, -and the Tilbury is a kind of cab with cover, to hold one person with the -driver. The fares, considering the distances traversed, are on the whole -moderate, although charges in this respect are complained of. The Public -Gardens have been very much improved since I was last here, and under -the shade of the trees it is very pleasant to sit and admire the beauty -of the scenery presented by the surrounding hills, and the view of the -bay in front, the busy city shutout, and everything in quiet repose save -the rumble of carriages passing along the streets. Another public garden -has been established in the square called Praça da Constituiçao, where -there is a fine statue of the first Emperor Dom Pedro proclaiming the -independence of the Empire. A still larger square, called the Campo de -Santa Anna, might advantageously be converted to a similar purpose, and -would form probably the most extensive area of this kind in the world, -affording shade and shelter from the rays of the sun to thousands of -citizens who have to cross it. At present, near the public fountains, it -is occupied by laundresses, and in certain spots rubbish is thrown, but -other parts are being planted, especially near the Senate House, the War -Office, and those of Public Works and Foreign Affairs, the Museum and -the new Mint, the latter one of the finest buildings in Rio. The -municipal taxes are few, and it is not easy to find a surplus to be -employed in ornamental works. As regards the railways, I must reserve my -notice of them till my return from the Plate, as at present my sojourn -in the Empire is limited to a couple of days in the capital. - - * * * * * - -The terrible ravages of the cholera in the River Plate brought me back -to Rio de Janeiro sooner than I had contemplated, as there was nothing -whatever to be done down there under such circumstances. At one period -both town and country places were threatened with absolute decimation, -and the daily tales of horror exceeded almost anything on record. In -many cases, when no one could be found to bury the dead inside ranchos, -or cottages, they were set fire to as the only way of disposing of the -bodies therein. In the Province of Buenos Ayres alone the loss of life -is computed at 25,000, and other provinces suffered almost in an equal -ratio, so that the actual loss of life and property in the Argentine -Republic must have been something enormous. In the Banda Oriental the -losses were severe, and at one time the mortality at Monte Video itself -was almost as great as at Buenos Ayres. Farms were in many cases -abandoned, and sheep and cattle left to roam at large; crops rotted in -the ground, growers of fruits and vegetables were ruined, the markets -for these products being closed, and their entrance into the town -prohibited. In fact it appeared as if the destroying angel was passing -over the devoted land; nor do I believe, from all I could learn on the -spot, that cholera was the only form of disease. It rather resembled the -fearful destruction of the Israelites, when Moses and Aaron “stood -between the living and the dead.” How soon, however, such fearful -visitations are forgotten. Except from the general appearance of -mourning when I returned to the River Plate about three months later, -and the crowded state of the cemeteries, no one could imagine that -Buenos Ayres and Monte Video had gone through such a fearful ordeal. -Everything went on as usual, and people looked after their farms and -their merchandise as if nothing had happened, though doubtless many -feared the return of the hot season, before which very little will have -been done in the way of sanatary precaution. That the cholera will -become a permanent visitor in the River Plate seems unlikely, if we are -to judge from its erratic course in other parts of the world, but no one -can say that the scourge will not prevail until the cities and towns are -effectively sewered and drained. The climate itself is healthy enough, -but then this is no safeguard against epidemics, which have their origin -in impurities allowed to accumulate until cities become pest-houses. - -On my return from the River Plate, in the beginning of February, I -availed myself of the opportunity to ramble about the city and suburbs, -to visit old friends, and to go over the railways, an account of which -will be found under its proper head. The weather was still very hot, -with frequent heavy thunder storms, some terrifically grand—more so than -I ever remember during a two years' residence here. From my room window, -at the Hotel dos Estrangeiros, I could see the whole heavens lighted up -with frequent flashes, and now and again portions of the bay and of the -mountains stood out as if from a sea of fire. Then the awful crash of -the thunder, followed by instant and utter darkness, and with -reverberations shaking the house to its foundations, all combined to -heighten the grandeur and sublimity of the scene. As for sleeping in the -midst of such turmoil, it was simply impossible. - -Both February and March were very wet, stormy months, and on one -occasion some large trees were blown down about the city, and much -damage done to the roofs of houses, many of which are not very well -protected from such visitations. Similar weather followed me to San -Paulo, but on my return to Rio, after again visiting the River Plate, -the weather was delightfully cool, fine, and pleasant, equal to the most -agreeable portion of our summer weather in Europe. There is no doubt the -climate of Rio de Janeiro is a healthy one, and it is a striking fact -that scarcely any cases of epidemic have occurred since the sewerage of -the city was completed, nor any visitation of cholera, notwithstanding -sick and wounded were constantly arriving from the seat of war, and that -the quarantine was merely nominal. I am convinced the very thunder -storms to which I have alluded tend to purify the atmosphere. The -deluges of rain of course exercise a great cleansing power, and it has -been noticed in years when thunder storms did not prevail that much -sickness followed. One requires to go closely over the city before he -finds out improvements which have been effected in Rio, which are -nowhere so palpable as when passing through the great public -thoroughfares. With such a number of narrow intersecting streets, no -adequate idea of the size or extent of the city can be formed until some -of the hills about it are ascended, such as that of Santa Theresa. It -is, however, from the top of the Corcovado that its dimensions are most -striking, from whence also the spectator can form a fair notion of the -extent of the bay. - -I have before remarked on the defective state of the landing-places, -that most used, near the custom-house, being a very dirty, dilapidated -wooden jetty, about which the rabble of the city seems to collect, and -it is always a scene of much uproar and confusion. There is quite a -Babel among the boatmen and their black hangers-on. There are some other -landing-places, with stone steps, in front of the large square, whence -the ferry-boats across the bay take their departure, but these are not -very convenient, and the untidy state of the public market which stands -here is a disgrace to the municipality. Indeed nothing can be more -derogatory to a large city like Rio de Janeiro, possessing the finest -harbour in the world, than such landing places, which create a most -unfavourable impression on strangers. The Custom-house, with its wharves -and warehouse, the Marine Arsenal and Building-yard, together with the -private wharves, occupy a large portion of the water frontage, but there -is still sufficient space left, if it were properly laid out, as I -believe is intended before very long, for decent landing-places for the -public. Speaking of the Custom-house, the source from whence a large -portion of the revenue of the country is derived, it is an unsightly -building, though immense sums of money have been spent, and are still -being spent, in order to obtain adequate accommodation for the -increasing trade of the port. Hydraulic lifts and machinery of every -possible kind are in course of erection, and a few years will doubtless -see the Rio Custom-house take its stand as the finest building of the -sort in South America. The old Praça do Commercio, or Exchange, with its -dismal vaulted roof, remains unchanged since my last visit, but when the -Custom-house is completed I believe it is intended to construct an -exchange more worthy of the place, with suitable accommodation attached. -This, as well as a foreigners' club, is much required at Rio, where the -foreign population is numerous and influential, and ought to be -represented in a manner consistent with its importance. - -When I lived here in the years 1848 and 1849, there was much -sociability,—amongst the English residents at all events—but this -appears to have quite died out, and even ceremonial visits are now -rarely exchanged. The only society worthy of the name existing in Rio is -that associated with the diplomatic circle, which is of course more or -less exclusive in its character. I must nevertheless notice one -institution in which I found a great change for the better. I mean the -English Church. A good deal of money has been spent in connection with -this edifice, entirely raised by private subscriptions, and certainly it -has been well spent. The recess built out for the communion table is -very pretty, and the organ is well placed, in a line with the body of -the church. There is a good choir, the whole arrangements being very -complete, and the service efficiently performed. The Rev. Mr. Preston is -chaplain. - -Whilst in Rio, I went to the Palace of Sao Christovao, and had the -honour of being presented to the Emperor, whom I was glad to see looking -well, but thinner than when I last saw him, fifteen years since. The -Palace is well situated, on a rising ground, with a good prospect, and -appears to be comfortable enough, but without any gorgeous display. The -Court is very simple in its habits, and the democratic tendencies of the -people render access to it comparatively easy. - -With regard to politics, the Government has generally an opposition -party to contend with, both in the Chamber and in the Senate, but -without impeding the regular proceedings of these bodies, which, on the -whole, are conducted with great decorum, and the speeches are very fully -and fairly reported,[5] occupying whole pages of the daily papers. The -_Jornal do Commercio_ still stands pre-eminent in the Rio press—as the -_Times_, in fact, of the Brazilian Empire. - -The political discussions in the press, which are perfectly free, are -often pursued with considerable acrimony. At the same time there is a -degree of reticence observable which some of our newspaper writers would -do well to imitate. Brazil does not lack parliamentary orators or able -statesmen, but public business is trammelled with too much of red tapery -as at home. The current of popular feeling does not run very deep from -the fact that the bulk of the community are too much absorbed in their -business occupations to leave them much time for political discussions, -to which a large portion of Englishmen devote themselves because they -have little else to do. It must not, however, be inferred from this -remark that Brazilians are indifferent to what passes inside the walls -of the Senate or of the Chamber. The support the Government has received -in carrying on a long and costly war proves that the honour and -well-being of the Empire is as dear to them as to the most patriotic -people. - -I am glad to have to record the abolition of passports in Brazil unless -specially asked for. I had occasion to notice the inconvenience caused -on a late trip to the River Plate, and it is gratifying to see that -Brazilian statesmen appreciate the march of events in this respect, as I -trust will also soon be the case in facilitating the despatch of -passengers' luggage. As a rule, passengers do not carry with them -articles subject to duty, though, of course, a surveillance in this -matter is quite necessary. At Buenos Ayres there is a custom station on -the mole or landing place where passengers can bring their luggage, -which is at once examined and passed, thus saving much time and trouble. -The Post-office is on the whole pretty well managed and letters are -promptly delivered on arrival of the mails. The building is, however, -quite unsuited to the requirements of so large a city as Rio de Janeiro, -and I learn that it is intended to erect a fine new post-office in a -square facing the Bay, which will be a great convenience to the public. - -I found the population on the opposite side of the bay had not increased -as much as I expected, although the facility of crossing by the large -American ferry steamers is a great convenience. Nitherohy is a large -straggling place, supposed to contain a population of about 20,000, but -there are many houses uninhabited, nor do the Rio people show much -partiality for a residence there even at a much less rent. Some handsome -villas have been built there, and it is intended to light the place with -gas, which would be a decided advantage to the residents. Some of the -islands in the upper parts of the bay are now cultivated and inhabited, -and numerous small craft ply between them and Rio de Janeiro, bringing -down fruits and vegetables. - -In the appendix to this volume will be found sundry official documents -and statistical information in reference to the resources and commerce -of Brazil. The institutions of the Empire are very favourable to -mercantile development, and the great progress made within the past half -century is indicative of a highly prosperous future. - ------ - -Footnote 2: - - The Bank, Exchange, Custom House, and Arsenal (of late years greatly - extended) are in the Rua Direita. Besides these, the chief public - edifices and the Imperial Palace, a plain brick building; the Old - Palace, on the shore, used for public offices; a public hospital, - alluded to elsewhere, erected in 1841; a national library, with - 800,000 printed volumes, and many valuable MSS.; and a well-supported - opera house, which has supplied Europe with some very popular - performers, especially in the ballet line, as witness that general - favourite, Madame Celeste, who came from Rio, in 1830, with her sister - Constance, another danseuse, and appeared for the first time in - England at Liverpool, in the divertissement in Masaniello, Sinclair - being Auber's hero. The educational establishments are the Imperial - College of Don Pedro II.; the College of St. Jose; Schools of Medicine - and Surgery; Military and Naval Academy; and many public schools. It - has also many scientific institutions; a museum rich in Ornithology, - Entomology, and Mineralogy; and a fine botanic garden. Of churches - there are upwards of fifty, not of much external elegance, but most - sumptuously decorated in the interior. - -Footnote 3: - - The inhabitants of Rio Janeiro are fond of carriages, but the - specimens generally seen would hardly do for Hyde Park, being chiefly - old-fashioned coaches, drawn by four scraggy mules, with a black - coachman on the box, and a postillion in jack-boots on the leaders, - sitting well back, and with his feet stuck out beyond the mule's - shoulders. The liveries are generally gorgeous enough, and there is no - lack of gold lace on the cocked hats and coats; but a black slave does - not enter into the spirit of the thing, and one footman will have his - hat cocked athwartships, the other fore and aft; one will have shoes - and stockings with his toes peeping through, the other will dispense - with them altogether. But the old peer rolls on unconscious, and I - dare say the whole thing is pronounced a neat turn out. The Brazilians - are great snuff-takers, and always offer their box, if the visitor is - a welcome guest. It is etiquette to take the offered pinch with the - left hand. Rapé is the Portuguese for snuff, hence our word Rappee. - They do not smoke much. The opera was good, the house very large, - tolerably lighted, but not so thickly attended as it might be. The - ladies look better by candle light, their great failing being in their - complexions, the tint of which may be exactly described by the - midshipman's simile of snuff and butter. The orchestra was good, many - of the performers being blacks or mulattos, who are excellent - musicians. The African race seem to like music and generally have a - pretty good ear. Both men and women often whistle well, and I have - heard the washerwomen at their work whistling polkas with great - correctness. I was amused one evening on going out of the opera when - it was half over: offering my ticket to a decent-looking man, he - bowed, but refused it, saying that men with jackets were not allowed - in the house.—_Elves._ - -Footnote 4: - - The population of Rio, on the arrival of the royal family, did not - amount to 50,000, but afterwards rapidly augmented; so that in 1815, - when declared independent, the number had nearly doubled, and now is - estimated at about 400,000 with the suburbs and the provincial capital - of Nitherohy, on the opposite shore of the Bay. This increase is - partly to be ascribed to the afflux of Portuguese, who have at - different times left their country in consequence of the civil - commotions which have disturbed its peace, as well as of English, - French, Dutch, German, and Italians, who, after the opening of the - port, settled here, some as merchants, others as mechanics, and have - contributed largely to its wealth and importance. These accessions of - Europeans have affected a great change in the character of the - population, for at the commencement of the century, and for many years - afterwards, the blacks and coloured persons far exceeded the whites, - whereas now they are reduced to less than half the inhabitants. In the - aggregate population of the empire, however, the coloured portion is - still supposed to be treble the white. - -Footnote 5: - - The difference between reporting proceedings of the Brazilian and - English legislatures is that the latter appear daily, whilst it takes - many days before speeches in the Brazilian Chambers are published, and - frequently a large double sheet is issued to make up for arrears. - - - - - THE WAR IN PARAGUAY. - - -Leaving for the moment the narrative form, I devote a chapter to this -lamentable struggle, which has entailed such serious consequences on -Brazil, and which at the time I am writing is yet undetermined. Writers -have differed much as to the origin of the war, but none have shown how -it could have been avoided. I may observe _en passant_ that so far from -having entertained any prejudices against Paraguay, my sympathies have -always been in favour of that country as evinced during my visit to the -River Plate in 1853, at which period the elder Lopez was alive, and -there appeared to be dawning in the future, not only an era of internal -development for a very fine, fertile territory, but also a relaxation of -the iron rule under which the people had so long groaned, by -encouraging, to a limited extent it might be, commercial relations with -other countries. Lopez had joined Brazil in putting down the tyranny of -Rozas and in restoring a free government to the Argentine provinces; the -rivers were to be opened by treaty to all nations, and an era of peace -and prosperity appeared to be the natural result of these arrangements. -The visit of the younger Lopez to Europe, it was thought, would have -instilled into his mind the fact that all the wealth he saw there -emanated from commerce, and that his first object would be to render -Paraguay a commercial country. Unfortunately, however, he seems to have -become more enamoured with the martial attitude of France than anything -else, and determined on his return home to develop the military instead -of the commercial resources of Paraguay. His ambition was centered in -organizing a large army, fortifying the river approaches to Asuncion, -and creating a small but efficient steam fleet. The experience of the -past was thrown away, and on succeeding his father in the dictatorship, -it became evident that his policy was to be one of aggrandisement, if it -meant anything at all, and that, in other respects Paraguay was to -continue isolated from her neighbours, and to stand aloof from -participation in the business of the world. Paraguay had no enemies, nor -was there any desire to trouble her; her territorial position secured -her safety from attack, and it is impossible that all this military and -naval preparation on the part of Lopez could have been merely intended -for purposes of self-defence. The truth is, that Lopez had always -coveted that portion of territory called the Missions, formerly a great -stronghold of the Jesuits, but now part of the Argentine Confederation; -and the possession of this would bring him close upon Uruguay, where the -sea port of Monte Video afforded a tempting prize. At the same time, all -this involved the prospect of a collision with other Powers, against -which it was necessary to provide, and this I believe to be the true -reason for the great military preparations of Lopez. I have already said -that Paraguay joined with Brazil in putting an end to the tyranny of -Rozas, and entered into a treaty by which the navigation of the upper -rivers was to be free and the independence of Uruguay to be recognised. -If ever Brazil had any sinister design on the latter State this was the -time when she would have been most likely to assert it, but no such -disposition was evinced. On the contrary, it was the wish as well as the -interest of Brazil to keep Monte Video a free port, and the rivers open -to the flags of all nations. Unfortunately for the peace of South -America, Monte Video has never had a strong and independent Government, -and during the presidency of Berro disorders broke out on the frontier. -The persons and properties of Brazilian subjects were exposed to the -inroads of lawless marauders from Uruguay, until at length the patience -of the people of Rio Grande was exhausted, and they threatened to take -up arms in their own defence, if the Imperial Government did not at once -interfere for their protection. This statement has been personally -confirmed to me by large landed proprietors who were themselves on the -spot and suffered from the causes here referred to. Brazil was, -therefore, compelled to send troops to the frontier and to follow the -marauders into Uruguay, until such time as she could obtain fresh -guarantees from a Government which had proved itself totally incompetent -to deal with the matter. Then came the Colorado movement, headed by -Flores, and further complications ensued, which might have been settled -by the timely intervention of foreign Governments, but the men in power -were quite deaf to all friendly remonstrances. The flag of Brazil was -grossly insulted, trampled on in the streets of Monte Video, and the -treaty with her publicly burnt. Recent melancholy occurrences in that -city have shown what excesses can be committed from party spirit, and -how difficult it was at the period I allude to, to avoid an armed -intervention. How these acts affected the interests of Paraguay it is -not easy to conceive. Brazil agreed to recognise the independence of -Uruguay, and she left it in that condition, stronger than it had been -for some years previously. It is true that about this time Lopez had -given notice to Brazil that any interference in the affairs of Uruguay, -or the entry of Brazilian troops into Uruguayan territory, would be -considered by him as a _casus belli_—a piece of impertinence that Brazil -might well disregard, as the rights of nations allowed reprisals for -injuries received, and this was all Brazil carried into effect. Up to -the point mentioned Lopez had, therefore, no real or ostensible cause of -war against Brazil, but she stood in the way of the consummation of his -ambitious designs, and so he made what he termed an interference in -Uruguay the pretext for setting his legions in motion. Without any -declaration of war, he seized and took forcible possession of the -steamer Marquis de Olinda whilst on a peaceable errand up the River, -with Carneiro de Campos, the President of Matto Grosso on board, and has -retained him prisoner ever since; he marched a division into Brazil, and -occupied the frontier town of Uruguayana, simultaneously sending his -fleet down, no doubt to co-operate with his troops, but this was -prevented by the gallant action of the Riachuello, in which the -Paraguayan navy was nearly destroyed by the Brazilians. The proceedings -of Lopez towards Brazil were, therefore, offensive and insulting in the -highest degree, and still more so towards the Argentine Republic, which -had really given him no cause of offence beyond daring to remain -neutral, and consequently refusing to allow the passage of troops -through its territory. Upon the refusal of General Mitre to grant such -permission, he crossed the Parana and invaded Corrientes, seizing two -Argentine vessels as well as the persons and property of Argentine -subjects, on whom he levied black mail. These extreme measures taken by -Lopez towards both countries were in pigmy imitation of the first -Napoleon, whose tactics Lopez affected to follow by seizing the persons, -property, and territory of his neighbours before it was possible for -them to offer any opposition. Such an offence against the laws of -nations could lead only to an alliance against him as a common enemy, -with the condition that the aggrieved nations would not lay down their -arms until the offender was punished by expulsion from Paraguay. In -Europe this course was adopted against Napoleon I. and in South America, -under nearly identical circumstances, an equally strong measure was -rendered necessary for the future peace and security of the allies. If a -case in point was required on the spot, Paraguay itself had joined in -the expulsion of Rozas, because no security existed for any one so long -as that tyrant dominated at Buenos Ayres. That neither Brazil nor the -Argentine Republic anticipated such conduct on the part of Lopez is -evident from the unprepared state of both, the latter being at the time -literally without army or navy; indeed, the first check given to the -advance of Lopez was by the late General Flores, at the head of a -gallant little band of Oriental troops in conjunction with those of -Brazil. No impartial person can question, therefore, that Lopez has been -the sole cause of this long and bloody war, and that he committed a -glaring act of violence towards his neighbours, who were compelled in -self-defence to enter into a league for the expulsion of so dangerous a -character. To have made peace on any other terms would have been only -playing with a firebrand. - -It is not my purpose in this chapter to criticise the manner in which -the war has been conducted, or to point out mistakes which may have been -made. Intelligent Brazilians believe that, instead of sending a large -army by sea, it would have been better to have made a diversion by -marching across the country to the interior of Paraguay, direct to -Asuncion, leaving Humaita blockaded. Thus a large amount of money would -have been expended in Brazilian territory. Whether this would have -hastened the conclusion of the war it is difficult to say, but the -direct advantages in other ways would no doubt have been considerable. -However, Brazil is not the only country that has blundered in carrying -on a distant war, as we know to our cost. That they did not anticipate -so vigorous a resistance is certain, nor was it possible to suppose that -any section of the Argentine people, whose nationality had been grossly -insulted, would have been lukewarm, or have desired to make peace until -the object of the struggle was accomplished. - - - - - THE PROVINCE OF SAN PAULO. - - -Availing of an opportunity to accompany a friend to this province, we -left Rio on Tuesday, the 18th of February, on board the steamer Ptolemy, -with a remarkably smooth sea, and a light, but cool breeze. We reached -Santos early the following morning. The steamer was at once moored -alongside an iron wharf, facing the Custom House, and Mr. Miller, one of -the railway officials, came on board with the unpleasant information -that the railway was stopped, owing to the heavy rains, which appeared -to have prevailed here as at Rio. The town did not look very inviting -under the influence of a hot sun, but Mr. Miller kindly offered us rooms -at the station, where he himself lived, and made us very comfortable. -There was every prospect of our being obliged to walk up to the top of -the Serra, but fortunately, on the 20th, a telegram came to announce -that the line would be opened to San Paulo the next morning, when we -started with a small train, arrived at 2.33, and drove to the Hotel -d'Italia, where rooms had been engaged for us. - -The province of San Paulo has played a distinguished part in the history -of Brazil, and has latterly attracted much notice from its production of -cotton, in addition to the large quantity of coffee grown and shipped -from the port of Santos, both of which articles are expected to be -greatly increased by the railway facilities. There can be no doubt that -the province offers splendid scope for emigration, if properly applied, -and this important subject will be specially treated of after I have -collected together the requisite materials. Certainly the size, extent, -and evident prosperity of the city of San Paulo surprised me, no less -than its superiority in most of the comforts and luxuries to places more -favourably situated by their proximity to the sea; but the large number -of old churches, convents, colleges, and public institutions date its -origin from the time of the Jesuits, who must have been very industrious -and wealthy to have found the means for building such huge places, with -the object of perpetuating their order, and for the spread of the Roman -Catholic religion. I much regretted that the stoppage of the railway, -and very unfavourable weather—constant thunder storms, with deluges of -rain—prevented me travelling some distance into the interior, where the -coffee and cotton plantations lie, but the accounts received from -others, who possess a thorough knowledge of the localities, enable me to -speak most highly of its resources. - -His Excellency, Saldanha Marinho, the President of San Paulo, and who by -his affability and business habits has won the esteem and affection of -the people, received me kindly during my stay here. He is a determined -supporter of every practical measure having for its object the -improvement of the city and of the province. Respecting the great work -of the railway, on which so much of the future welfare of the province -depends, I will endeavour to give a tolerably ample description; but to -begin with, it may not be out of place to quote as follows from the work -of Mr. Scully, entitled “Brazil and its Chief Provinces”:— - - “Passing over the Mugy river you arrive quickly at the foot of the - gorge formed by the two out-jutting spurs of the buttress-like - mountain, and the black defiant ravine is suggestive of anything but - a railway course. Here the line climbs boldly up the side of the - Mugy spur, at a usual ascent of one in ten, crossing mountain - torrents, leaping gloomy chasms, cutting through solid rocks, - holding hard on to every foot gained, until it attains a - resting-place upon the table land, 2,600 feet high, after five miles - of gigantic excavations, removing 1,100,000 cubic yards of granite - rock and earth. - - “Here we must give a slight idea of how this daring plan is - utilised, which was at one time laughed at as an engineering - impossibility, and which even yet stands pre-eminent among similar - works. - - “This entire and almost straight ascent of upwards of five miles is - divided into four “lifts” of about a mile and a quarter each, having - a level platform of some 400 feet in length between them. On these - lifts, as in general on all the line, the track is single, except at - the upper half, where it is doubled to admit of the ascending and - descending trains passing each other. At the upper end of each - platform is placed a powerful stationary engine of 200 horse-power, - whose two cylinders are 26 inches diameter and 5 feet stroke, - calculated to haul up 50 tons at the rate of ten miles an hour, - which are supplied by five Cornish boilers, three of which suffice - for the duty. - - “A steel wire rope, tested to a strength far exceeding the - requirements which will ever be made upon it, passes over a - friction-wheel on each side of the fly-wheel drum upon which it is - wrapped round, and, one end being attached to an ascending and the - other to a descending train, it is intended to make the “lift” - partially self-acting, as it now wholly is at one of the inclines - which is not supplied with its stationary engine, the weight of the - descending train drawing up the ascending one. Powerful brakes that - will stop a train instantly are supplied to guard against a breaking - down of any part of the machinery, or a rupture of the rope. From - this short description our readers can form an idea of the - mechanical contrivances for effecting the ascent. - - “Throughout these wonderful inclines the most majestic and wild - scenery is observed along the slightly winding way. On the third - lift occurs a ravine still more gloomy than the rest, which is - called the Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell); that, having a width of - 900 feet, is crossed by an iron viaduct, which lies on rows of iron - columns resting on stone piers 200 feet below in the centre of the - line.” - -I have great pleasure in endorsing all Mr. Scully says as to the -excellent qualities of the railway officials, and can also affirm that -to Mr. Aubertin and Mr. Hutchings is due the extraordinary development -that has been effected in the production of cotton. - - - - - THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY. - - -I will now proceed to describe the railway in my own terms, without -reference to the statistics or the reports that have been published -about it. My impression on leaving the station was that of setting off -on an adventurous journey—not merely ensconcing oneself in the corner of -a railway carriage and taking a comfortable nap. Curiosity was excited -to the utmost, after the accounts I had heard, and the temporary -stoppage of the line by recent heavy rains washing down some of the -slopes of the cuttings rather added to the interest of a first visit. -There was a tolerable amount of bustle at starting, but away we went -about eleven o'clock, over low, swampy ground. For seven miles the rails -run parallel with the old road to Santos, and the bridge at Cubitao (an -arm of the sea) is passed, beyond which for a further distance of six -and a half miles (making 13½ miles to the foot of the Serra) it becomes -a dense mass of forest and jungle, which it must be difficult to convert -to any useful purpose; indeed, the curse of the country is this mass of -useless forest, only fit for the haunts of wild animals and reptiles. -How they have hitherto been able to carry on the traffic between Santos -and San Paulo is a mystery when we look at the country and miles of wood -passed through. However, we are now in sight of the first rise of the -mountain, which looks grim enough, and the train comes to a stop at the -station, after passing an open space of ground, on which stands a house, -built and formerly inhabited by the contractors, with almost a little -village about it, occupied by their staff, &c., where, I understand, -cricket was often played to while away the leisure hours after the -labours of the day. Now everything is going to wreck, and if the land is -not kept clear it will soon be a jungle again: such is the quick growth -of vegetation in this country and so rank does it become. The station at -the foot of the Serra is a good substantial sort of house, the station -master being a young German, with a wife and family, very comfortable -adjuncts in so lonely a spot; and the house was surrounded by fowls and -other live stock needful to family wants. We stood contemplating the -height we had to be dragged with a certain kind of awe, and presently we -saw the train descending, which it did steadily enough, bringing Mr. -Aubertin, the general manager, Captain Burton, her Majesty's consul, and -some other notabilities of San Paulo. The former gentlemen returned with -us, adding materially to the interest and pleasure of the trip by their -intelligent knowledge of all we had to see and pass through. - -[Illustration: Bridge Viaduct on the San Paulo Railway.] - -Well, the signal is given, and we are off, mounting an incline of about -1 in 10 for a distance of some 800 yards, where there is a curve, and we -are shut out from the lower level of the line, steadily ascending the -mountain, until we reach the first lift, about 1¼ miles. After a short -delay, we were hooked on the second lift, and as we mount the scenery -becomes grander, the shadows of the mountains deeper, and the work -becomes heavier. I was surprised to find so many curves, which are an -additional strain on the wire rope, as well as an additional risk, -requiring close attention to the break, where we rode in order to have a -good view of everything. Mr. Fox, engineer-in-chief, and Mr. Welby, -locomotive superintendent, were with us, and we got down to look over -Fairburn's splendid stationary engines, which are of 200 horse-power, -embedded in a granite foundation, about 40 feet deep, with live boilers -to each, three being generally used. The curves continue on the third -lift, close to which, entering the fourth lift, is the wonderful viaduct -across a chasm in the mountain, which makes your head giddy to look -down. The bridge is certainly a great engineering achievement, resting -on iron pillars with a stone foundation, the centre being nearly 200 -feet deep. We are accustomed to great altitude of railway bridges at -home and elsewhere, but there is a peculiar aerial look about this one -which makes one glad to be over it. At one point in this fourth section -is a fine view of a deep valley behind us, the opposite mountain one -dense mass of forest, and the scene is inexpressibly grand. To have made -the lifts straight would have necessitated frequent tunnelling and added -another half million to the cost of construction. On reaching the top of -the Serra, a distance of about five miles from its base, the break is -detached, a locomotive takes hold of the six carriages which have come -up in two lifts, and away we whisk for some time through a thickly -wooded country, for a distance of about 48 miles, stopping at several -stations. Some miles before reaching San Paulo are the Campos, or level -plains, covered with a short grass, and rather swampy, but no cattle are -to be seen, owing, I believe, to the number of insects which fasten on -them, causing sores, and being otherwise injurious. It is, however, a -great relief to the eye, after the dense forests passed through, to come -upon plains. - -From San Paulo the line passes on to Jundiahy, a distance of 44 miles, -or a total length from Santos of 88 miles, the chief interest of course -being centred in the gigantic works of the Serra. The San Paulo Railway -is undoubtedly one of the grandest works yet made with English capital -in Brazil, and it is destined to play a very important part in the -future development of this fine province. Engineering mistakes have, -undoubtedly, been made, and the want of a personal superintendence of -the engineer-in-chief, at all events during the construction of the -important works of the Serra, is amongst the complaints made by the -Brazilian Government, as also the manner in which the contract was -executed. It is also questionable whether another and less costly route -could not have been selected to be worked by locomotives, instead of the -old fashioned but dangerous lifts. However, for the present, this is -mere matter of controversy or opinion. The railway is made, though far -from being complete or perfect, and it is evident that a considerable -expenditure has to be faced before sufficient traffic can be carried on -to realise the expectations of directors and shareholders, few of whom -know anything about the undertaking or are able to comprehend the -difficulties it has still to pass through. - -It is curious that the real traffic is only tapped at the extreme end of -the line (Jundiahy), where only commences cotton growing, and the great -coffee plantations are some 30 miles further on, to which district a -private company is now trying to get the line extended. One advantage -possessed by the existing company will be in having their mileage rate -for the bulk of their traffic over the whole of the line, and of course -it will be an additional advantage to present shareholders if the line -should be continued to Campinas, which is, I believe, a large and -thriving place, the abode of many wealthy proprietors. Passenger traffic -can only be limited for some time to come, from the absence of a -resident population along the line; at the same time it will naturally -increase between Santos, San Paulo, and the upper part of the Province, -particularly when the line is extended in that direction. The stoppage -of the line is between San Paulo and Jundiahy, where the cuttings have -given way to some extent, a contingency, I fear, they will always be -exposed to, from the heavy rains which prevail, and I believe I am -justified in adding, the imperfect manner in which some of them have -been constructed. Whilst expressing my admiration at the courage and -enterprise of the resident engineer and superintendent, who jointly -succeeded in getting the line opened, I cannot conceal from myself the -difficulties they have still to overcome in order to carry on an -adequate traffic and get the line accepted by Government. One thing is -very certain, that had a deputation of shareholders been sent out to -look over the intended line before fairly concluding the contract for -making it, they would have returned so scared and frightened as to have -led to an immediate dissolution of the company, and San Paulo would -hardly have had its railway in this generation, so far as English -capital is concerned. I well remember the kind of awe with which I -looked over the plans and sections of the line before it was commenced, -nor has this effect been diminished by a personal inspection of the -works up to this place. That the railway will be a grand thing for the -province there can be no doubt, and this consideration ought to render -the Government lenient towards a company which, apart from its other -difficulties, has suffered so much by maladministration at home. - -In describing the works of the Serra, I have omitted to allude to the -double rails which are laid near approaches to the stationary engines, -so that the trains can pass each other, which, of course, they are -constantly doing, one up and the other down, on the several lifts. I was -at a loss also to understand how they could work their goods traffic to -a large extent with the amount of trains running. I now find the latter -applies only to the passengers, and that produce is dealt with -separately, collected at the top of the Serra, and sent down during the -day, three waggon loads at a time, the waggons being collected together -at the foot of the Serra, and taken on to the station at Santos as -convenient. These arrangements necessitate a large amount of rolling -stock and extra shed accommodation, which I believe is about to be -supplied. Another feature in the works of the Serra is the loose kind of -material they have had to go through instead of granite rock, which they -expected, the former being apt to crumble away from the effects of rain, -although latterly the road has stood very well in this respect. Some of -the embankments crossing the gorges of the mountains are almost -perpendicular, and involved a heavy amount of labour and expense. It is -quite frightful to look down them. Of course the traffic of the Serra -can only be worked from sunrise to sunset, but a large amount of produce -can be brought down during that time. - -I have now to record a trip over the remaining portion of the line to -Jundiahy, the terminus. An announcement had been issued that traffic -would be resumed over the whole line on the 2nd March, but a continuance -of wet weather caused further and serious impediment, so I availed of -the kindness of the officials, who were making a survey of the state of -the works, to go to Jundiahy in the best manner circumstances would -permit. We started about 8 a.m., on Tuesday, the 23rd March, in a -carriage attached to the engine, having, amongst others, Mr. Aubertin, -superintendent; Mr. Fox, engineer-in-chief; the fiscal, or Government -engineer; the Postmaster-General, Captain Burton, and other persons, -with some luggage belonging to them, and some small stores for the use -of the line. - -My impression was that I had seen the heaviest works on the line, but -this was a great mistake, as I soon found out. The first few miles were -not of much interest, but afterwards, as we approached the mountain -scenery, the view became very fine,—the bold outline of the Jaraguay, a -mountain where gold mines exist, but long since ceased working—deep -gorges began to open out, and huge hanging forests towered above us, in -their wildest and most primitive form. At the first station I got on the -engine with Mr. Fox, and certainly it is difficult to imagine a country -less adapted to a railway—making it against nature, as some one -significantly observed. It is a succession of deep cuttings, high -embankments, curves, and heavy gradients the whole distance, at times -with an incline of 1 in 45, and only occasionally what may be termed a -bit of straight road. It is really wonderful how people could be found -to make such a railway in this country. Scarcely a human habitation to -be seen along the whole distance, except the rough mud huts for persons -connected with it; and about three stations between San Paulo and -Jundiahy. The stations themselves are barely sufficient for the station -master to live in, though probably adequate under present circumstances. -At one of them (Belem) a small quantity of cotton was stored, having -gone there direct, but no means of forwarding it on at present. - -The ordinary mule road to Jundiahy crosses and runs parallel to the -railway for some distance, and a wretched state it appeared to be -in—deep mud holes and quagmires, through which the poor mules have to -struggle. - -I must now refer to some of our difficulties, resulting from the state -in which we found the road. The first actual gap occurs some seventeen -or eighteen miles from San Paulo, where the river current has carried -away a large culvert, the rails and iron bowls (sleepers) attached to -them hanging suspended for some twenty feet. They were at work -rebuilding another culvert. We had to leave the carriage, cross the -stream, and, walking some little distance, to get to another engine, -which with a ballast truck was waiting there. On we went again, at times -having to pull up or go slowly over slippery places, until we passed the -tunnel, with water dripping from the roof. On the other side of the -tunnel occurs the most serious stoppage, the whole side of a huge hill -having apparently moved forward, the advanced portion of it blocking up -the road. Some under current has raised the rails several feet in -places, notwithstanding the immense piles of timber that have been -driven in to prevent encroachment. The conclusion is that a mass of -quicksands, swollen by the heavy rains, has forced its way under the -hill side and under the bed of the railway. The labour here will be very -great, by having to remove the falling mass, and the uncertainty is when -the movement may subside. The “mountain in labour” has brought forth no -“ridiculus mus” in this case. After walking past this obstruction, we -again mounted on the ballast truck, and went along until we came to a -place where the river had quite overflowed the rails, and the engine had -to force its way through two or three feet of water, of course at a very -slow and cautious pace; here they are raising the road so as to escape, -if possible, future inundations. Once through this last impediment, we -rattled along over a good hard bit of road at a good pace to Jundiahy, -the end of our adventurous journey. The station is a little distance -from the town, which stands on a hill, and after partaking of some solid -refreshments, which we fortunately found ready at the Railway Hotel, in -half an hour we were again on a ballast truck going through the same -process of changing from one truck to another, walking over slippery -ground, until we finally again joined the carriage on the opposite side -of the broken culvert, before arriving at which a thunder storm came on, -accompanied by torrents of rain, and most of us were thoroughly wet -through. The storm continued nearly to San Paulo, but it is amongst the -gorges of the mountains it comes down most furiously. - -It is not my intention to comment further on the errors that have been -made in the construction of this railway. No doubt obstacles had to be -met at every step; nor can shareholders be supposed to know much about -engineering details of this kind. They subscribe their money on the -faith of a Government guarantee, believing in the estimates, and that of -course the line will, under any circumstances, pay its working expenses. -The late Mr. Brunel used to repudiate the existence of engineering -difficulties. It was a mere question of money; but I think had he -surveyed the intended line of the San Paulo Railway he would have said -both these points were involved, the result being that the original -estimates are greatly exceeded, and the works still require a -considerable outlay before they can be permanently relied on. The thing -certainly appears incredible, if it were not the fact, that to work a -line consisting almost entirely of short curves and heavy gradients, the -directors should have sent out rigid locomotives suited to a first-class -English railway, without even bogie frames attached, causing great wear -and tear to both engines and rails. I quite believe that with suitable -locomotives the line may be safely and properly worked, and it seems -exactly a case in point for such engines as Fairlie's. The question as -to maintenance of way must always be a very important one; whether in -such a mountainous country, subject at seasons to heavy rains and -flooded rivers, and with a treacherous soil, the nature of the works is -such as can be relied on, for unless this is the case, as the public -journals of San Paulo justly observe, the real utility of the railway is -destroyed. Coffee growers and cotton planters have been looking to it as -a sure and certain means of getting their produce down to Santos, and -unless this can be depended on they will have to resort to the old, -cumbrous, and expensive mode of carrying it upwards of one hundred miles -on the backs of mules as heretofore. It is a momentous question for this -province whether or not they can depend on railway conveyance, which I -think may fairly be looked for when the line becomes consolidated, but -both shareholders and the Government must be prepared to make sacrifices -of no common kind before this end is finally attained. That the -officials and managers of the line in Brazil are doing all they can is -very certain, and it is for the company or the shareholders to provide -them with everything required to ensure the permanent success of the -company. They entered into a solemn contract with the Brazilian -Government and the Provincial Government here, which it is their duty to -fulfil, no matter at what sacrifice, and the sooner the shareholders -look their position in the face the better, instead of being guided -entirely by directors, who could only appreciate their position if they -came out in a body and personally inspected the line. One thing is very -certain, that if it had not been for the great liberality of the Baron -de Mauá in coming to the rescue of the concern, the works might never -have been completed or the line opened. - - - - - THE CITY OF SAN PAULO. - - -If it appears a long time in reaching here after passing the wonders of -the Serra, I was not disappointed either in the first peep at the city -or by a more intimate acquaintance with it. One cannot help marvelling -how the adventurous handful of men who originally penetrated the forests -and founded these cities in South America had the courage and -perseverance to do so; but I believe they availed, in many cases, of the -Indian tracks, and doubtless of Indian assistance occasionally. The city -has rather an imposing aspect as you wind round it to the station, being -built on a ridge of high ground which overlooks the River Tieté—a stream -rising in the neighbouring hills, and after traversing nearly the whole -of the province, eventually finds its way to the Parana and the -Paraguay. At the railway station sundry omnibuses and carriages were -waiting to receive the passengers. We drove to the Hotel d'Italia, where -a friend had taken rooms for us, and found ourselves tolerably -comfortable in a large house rather the worse for wear, and, like most -things in this country, allowed to get out of repair. During the -construction of the railway it was the head-quarters of the engineering -staff. - -The first thing we did next morning was to pay our respects to the -President of the Province, who received us very graciously. He is a man -of a very expressive, benevolent countenance, and I believe he -administers the affairs of the province in a most satisfactory -manner—not the easiest of tasks in such troublous times as the present. - -A ramble over the city impresses one favourably: good wide streets, -paved with a material resembling macadam. It is obtained from one of the -neighbouring hills, and forms a capital road. The sides are well made of -large flags, much superior to those of Rio de Janeiro, although the -pavement there is admirable. There are several fine churches, an -extensive new public market, and, as a rule, the houses are well and -substantially built. The shops are also numerous and well appointed with -all the requisites for convenience and comfort suited to a city of -20,000 to 25,000 inhabitants. There are several national colleges here, -with a number of young students, who help to enliven the place. The -Province of San Paulo has always held a good position, from the -enterprise and spirit of the people, the latter owing in some measure to -the cool climate, which even now occasionally renders woollen clothing -and blankets at night desirable, and a few months hence it will be -positively cold, with ice in the morning. Previously to and since our -arrival it has been raining so much that a vast tract of land bordering -the Tieté is overflowed, and travelling must be very bad. We took a -drive to the church of Nossa Senhora de Penha, a few miles distant, on -elevated ground, from whence a good view of the city and surrounding -country is obtained; but unfortunately rain came on, and we had only to -make the best of our way home, the carriages nearly sticking fast in a -quagmire. Otherwise the road is a pretty good one. - -I may here allude to the kind hospitality of Captain and Mrs. Burton, -which rendered our visit an exceedingly agreeable one. On the occasion -of this visit to Nossa Senhora de Penha, a curious incident occurred. On -our way out Mrs. Burton took a fancy to some geese which were quietly -feeding by the roadside, and she determined to make a purchase of them -on our way back, although it was raining heavily. After some bargaining -the geese were bought, their legs were tied, and each of us took charge -of one or more. They were quiet enough until we reached the city, where -the people began to pelt us with wax water balls, as it was the Intrudo -time, when such pastime is still carried on to a great extent in an old -fashioned place like San Paulo. The geese became alarmed, struggled to -release themselves, and after some difficulty and much amusement we got -them safely disposed of in the yard attached to the Consulate. Geese are -very plentiful in Brazil, but there is a prejudice against them amongst -the natives as food, from an idea that they eat snakes and other vermin, -but a few weeks good domestic feeding is calculated to do away with any -objection of this sort, as we had occasion to find in the excellent -quality of these very geese when we afterwards dined at the Consulate. - -A ridge of mountains forms a background to the north-west of San Paulo, -in some of which are gold mines that have been long abandoned, nor is -the mineral wealth of the province at all developed. The railway may -bring with it new enterprise of this kind, but it will be slow work. - -I went over the San Bento Convent, where only one priest appears to -reside in an enormous building, a portion of which has lately been -fitted up with considerable taste. The church is also kept in good -order, but it seems absurd for only one man to occupy such a building. -The wealth of religious orders in Brazil is by no means insignificant, -and it would be to the advantage of the country and of the people if -this was made available for national purposes. Religion would be better -appreciated, and the State would be able to form colonies in some of the -richest lands of the Empire, which naturally enough fell into the hands -of religious bodies. - -It is said that the Tropic of Capricorn passes close to the city of San -Paulo, but of course the exact spot cannot be defined. There is plenty -of fruit and vegetables to be had, grapes are abundant and very cheap, -good milk and fresh butter are easily obtainable, the cow going round to -the houses in the morning with a bell attached to her, and generally the -calf following. Indeed, a great many of the comforts and conveniences of -life are to be found here which do not exist in other Brazilian towns, -whilst the climate is infinitely superior. For many months of the year -the thermometer ranges about 60°, and at times goes down to 40°; on the -other hand it is sometimes very hot, but of short duration. This morning -I saw a black boy in the street engaged in the occupation of shoeblack, -with his little box and brushes very much after the London style. In -fact there is a more general inclination to work when it is not so -intensely hot. There goes the railway whistle, the train starting for -Santos, and it will return about 3 p.m., bringing the passengers by -steamer from Rio, which left there yesterday. There are two fast -steamers a week between Rio and Santos, so the communication is well -kept up. - -The number of old fashioned waggons or carts on two solid wooden wheels, -drawn by teams of oxen according to the weight carried, and the constant -passage of them, and of mules and horses, the former with tinkling -bells, all laden with country produce, indicate the nature of the -traffic which existed prior to the opening of the railway, rendering the -streets of the city a busy scene. The railway being closed between this -and Jundiahy no doubt increases this traffic for a time, but it must -always exist to a greater or a less degree, as everything for the -consumption of the city has to be brought into it by these means. The -bulk of the through traffic of coffee and cotton must, however, -inevitably find its way on to the rails and be taken down the Serra, as -it is impossible mules can compete with a railway for so great a -distance. The troops of mules, horses, and carts assemble at shops or -warehouses in streets where their business is carried on, their produce -discharged, and a certain portion of the animals loaded back to their -respective destinations. Hence the perpetual tinkling of bells and -creaking of wheels; at the same time a number of carriages and tilburys -are constantly in motion, conveying passengers about the city or -outskirts, causing a degree of activity one would otherwise hardly -expect to find. - -Yesterday, Sunday, being the first Sunday in Lent, there was a grand -procession, consisting of a large number of figures of saints, carried -on men's shoulders, after the old style of chairing an M.P. at home. -Sundry children were dressed up as angels, and there were also a -military band and some few soldiers; for, as the latter have been -drained by the war, only a sufficient number remain to keep guard, &c. -The figures are as large as life. They were collected together at the -church of San Francisco, a large and rather showy building, and at five -o'clock the procession started, amidst discharging of rockets, ringing -of bells, and other demonstrations. It passed the street in front of the -hotel, and, being a tolerably long one, it had rather an imposing -appearance. After traversing the principal streets of the city, it came -back by a side one, which also skirted the hotel. A thunder storm had -been gathering, and broke over the city just as the procession was -reaching the church from whence it started. An indescribable scene of -confusion ensued. The pace was quickened, angels were lifted on the -shoulders of blacks, the carriers of saints hurried along as fast as the -weight permitted—in fact, it was a race with the saints—each trying to -pass the other, to the imminent danger of an upset. The only part of the -procession which retained a show of decorum was that in charge of the -Host, where the high priest walked under a canopy with a number of other -priests, accompanied by attendants, swinging censers; and as the Host -passed, all the spectators knelt down. Fortunately the rain kept off -until the greater part reached the square, and the saints escaped a -terrible wetting, as it came down in torrents, with loud peals of -thunder and lightning, such as I have rarely met with. - -The storm continued in this way for several hours, and curiously enough -in the midst of it came a telegram from the Government of Rio de -Janeiro, announcing that the iron-clad fleet had succeeded in passing -the fortress of Humaita, while a division of Brazilian troops had also -taken a redoubt, &c., particulars of which will doubtless shortly reach -England. Excitement was at its height, and spite of the thunder, -lightning, and rain, houses began to light up, rockets were flying -about, and later on, a band of music, with many followers, paraded the -streets, playing and shouting vivas, with other joyous demonstrations -quite edifying under such an accumulation of atmospheric difficulties. -On Monday evening the city was entirely illuminated with candles, lamps, -and Chinese lanterns, the latter very pretty, and the effect altogether -striking. A full military band paraded the streets, followed by crowds -of people; indeed, nearly the whole of the population, male and female, -turned out and paraded the streets to a late hour, the wonder being -where they all came from. The demonstration continued for three days, or -rather nights, but not on so extensive a scale, nor was the firing of -rockets so profuse. The news from the seat of war has, therefore, -created quite a sensation, the Paulistos being somewhat a martial -people, and proud of the exploits of their countrymen before Humaita, -though further advices are needed before the war can be considered at an -end. A drawback accompanied the war news, namely, the cruel -assassination of General Flores at Monte Video, and the sanguinary -proceedings that followed on the occasion. - -I may mention having attended a sitting of the Provincial Assembly, in a -very pokey, close room attached to the palace, with a miserably low -gallery at each end for the public. The proceedings, however, were -orderly and dignified, and good speeches were made, one by Senhor Leite -Moraes, a tall, handsome man, who appears likely to distinguish himself -as an orator. The subject under discussion was a complaint against the -conduct of the Roman Catholic priests. There are thirty-six members of -the Provincial Chambers, who annually attend for a period of two months, -and some of them come from considerable distances at much personal -inconvenience to themselves. I believe they are to have a larger and -better place for conducting their business, which is certainly very -desirable. I also visited, in company with Captain Burton, English -Consul, one of the seminaries or schools, presided over by French monks, -who received us with attention, showed us over the extensive building -and well laid-out gardens, and entertained us afterwards with some good -English beer. The college, to which a good sized garden is attached, -contains accommodation for about one hundred youths, who come here for -their education, and remain several months, being comfortably lodged, -and, I believe, well cared for. - -This is only one of the many similar establishments in San Paulo, which, -in this respect, answers to our Cambridge or Oxford. The view from the -college is very extensive and picturesque—the city on one side, the -large plain in which the city stands, with mountains in the distance, -and close to the railway station. We heard the locomotive whistle, and -saw the steam a long way off, reaching the station in time to see the -train come in with 115 passengers, quite a large number, it being about -the period of the students returning. It also brought a company of -performers from one of the Rio de Janeiro theatres, who are going to -afford the inhabitants a month's display of their artistic skill, so -that in all respects the city will be very lively during the season of -Lent, one of the eccentricities connected with the Roman Catholic -religion. I went to the public gardens, which are at only a little -distance from the railway station, and cover a large space of ground. -They are in tolerable order, with flower beds and a piece of water in -the centre. A considerable sum of money must have been originally -expended on them, but not keeping things up is one of the major defects -of the system in this country. - -I thought processions were over for the present, but last evening there -was one of some magnitude, conveying a saint from one church to another, -and spite of wet streets after the heavy rain, a large number of people -turned out to witness and follow the participants in the ceremony. -To-day, however, being Friday, the 6th of March, was set apart for a -special occasion—a meeting, not a race of saints; and, for a wonder, the -day and night have been remarkably fine, a beautiful bright moon now -shining after the great bustle is over and the saints gone to rest, -though the illuminated altars in various parts of the city are still -glittering in all their tinsel, with numerous worshippers, after -depositing in a plate their offerings in the shape of “dumps,” a slang -phrase for copper coins. Preparatory symptoms have been going on for -some days at a sort of large closet, or “hole in the wall” of the house -opposite, belonging to an old nobleman, whose wife departed this life -to-day. The folding doors had been opened and a large blue cloth thrown -over the sanctuary from a balcony above, but still it was easy to see -that something unusual was in progress; and to-day, about the time of -the procession, the doors opened, and the curtain was withdrawn, -revealing a very pretty altar, with a cross and small figures of saints -at the top, the back parts and sides being covered with gold and silver -tinsel, and groups or garlands of artificial flowers tastefully -arranged, the whole lighted up by an immense number of candles, many of -them in silver candlesticks, provided or lent for the occasion by -devotees. There were about a dozen or more of these old cupboard altars -decked out, each apparently vying for supremacy in effect. But I am -forgetting the procession itself, which began to form at five o'clock, -accompanied by the usual paraphernalia—a number of young girls dressed -up as angels, bands of music, soldiers with fixed bayonets, the -President of the Province, and all the dignitaries, with the high priest -under a canopy and his attendants as before, whilst in front and behind -walked the multitude. The meeting of the saints took place close to the -hotel, where a halt was made, and a stout ecclesiastic (the bishop's -secretary, I believe), for whom a very large pulpit had been temporarily -erected at the corner of four streets, addressed a very energetic -discourse to the multitude, until his voice began to get rather squeaky, -nor could very much be made of what he said beyond that his listeners -were a very bad lot, and required all the intervention of the saints -before them to save them from perdition. The sermon ended, some music -and singing took place before the altar opposite to our hotel, after -which the procession went on, passing all the street altars, and this -part of the ceremony ended when the saints were fairly housed. For -hours, however, before the bright gaudy altars, and the still brighter -moon, the whole population of the place passed in review, making their -reverence and depositing their “dumps” or offertories. - -Whether or not these ceremonies are conducive to the maintenance of the -Roman Catholic Religion I cannot pretend to say, but certainly they are -preserved here in all their original stage effect (for it can be called -nothing else) just as I first recollect them in Brazil. I understand -that in other parts of the Empire they have much fallen off. San Paulo -has been more or less isolated, and it is only since the opening of the -railway that the foreign element has been introduced. Formerly a voyage -to Rio de Janeiro was quite an undertaking; now, by rail and steam, it -is an affair of two days. One thing is very clear, that processions and -religious observances of this kind are very popular here. It is quite -astounding to see the number of people filling the streets, mostly -dressed in their best garments, but to-day the ladies wore chiefly -black. On the other hand, the black women—the “swells,” as they are -called—prefer bright colours, and generally in good taste—white and -coloured muslin, with gay shawls thrown over their ample figures, many -of them very tall, fine looking women. Considering the dull, monotonous -life here, these religious festivals are unquestionably a great relief -to the female portion of the population, with whatever motive they may -attend them; nor can one help being struck with their apparent -earnestness of worship to dumb idols, and the constant stream of “dumps” -poured into the plates by high and low, rich and poor, the latter -bestowing their mite freely. A parade over the city on such occasions in -their best attire, and the opportunity for showing off, has no doubt -some influence, but this may be combined with religious feeling, -according to their interpretation of it. Amongst the numerous votaries -present I may mention the hardy, bronzed, country race, men who travel -over the country with mules, leading the life of gipsies, and not unlike -them, wrapped in a kind of coloured “poncho,” similar to that worn in -the River Plate. They almost live in the saddle, and are a very fine -class of men—true Paulistos. But I see they are putting out the lights -at the altar opposite, so it is time to extinguish mine and go to bed, -as the clock is just striking midnight. To-morrow the folding-doors will -be closed, and appear as the ordinary appendages of the house, leaving -“not a wreck behind,” except a few leaves of dead flowers scattered -about the streets. - -After a night's rest, I find that things have assumed their usual quiet -course, enlivened only by the continued favourable news from the seat of -war, which keeps the church bells going, rockets firing, and bands of -music parading the streets at night. These public demonstrations have -been of the most lively kind, assisted by a bright moon, without a cloud -in the sky; indeed you can see to read by its rays. Moonlight nights are -agreeable in any country, but in these tropical countries they seem to -have an influence both on body and mind, refreshing the physique and -raising the spirits. The atmosphere at this elevated spot is so cool at -night that, however hot the day, you sleep in comparative comfort, and -awake to enjoy the cool breeze of the early morning. - -I took a ride in company with Mrs. Burton in the direction of what is -called the Luz, past the railway station, where are numerous country -houses, and a handsome bridge over the Tieté, after which the road goes -through low ground, now entirely flooded, forming a swamp of many miles -in extent. A couple of miles further on brings you to a rather sharp -hill, on which is a small, rough-looking chapel, never finished, where -people come on a kind of pilgrimage, or to enjoy the beautiful view from -it. Looking back, the city of San Paulo is seen to much advantage, and -to the left, some thirty-five miles distant, appear the spurs of the -mountains, past which the railway runs to Santos. In the opposite -direction, and apparently much nearer than they are, you see the chain -of hills through which the railway proceeds to Jundiahy, the celebrated -Jaraguay (or gold mountain) to the left of them, standing out very -boldly in the light of the setting sun. Altogether it is considered one -of the prettiest short rides about the place, there being a great -variety of them. The site of the chapel also enjoys the reputation of -being in the exact line of the tropic of Capricorn, so that San Paulo is -just outside it. We reined up a short time to enjoy the prospect and -then cantered back for dinner. - -A perusal of accounts from England by the last mail, and of those from -the River Plate, form a very agreeable diversion to the otherwise -monotonous life one has to lead here, although my visit has been an -exception to the rule in this respect from the occurrences detailed in -previous pages. It is impossible to read the official and private -communications from the River without feeling deeply grieved at the -tragic scenes that have lately been acted there. The correspondent of -the _Jornal do Commercio_ at Monte Video gives a very graphic account of -the assassination of poor General Flores and the events arising out of -it; and I incline to believe that, however deplorable, they nipped in -the bud a very formidable conspiracy, which, had it been successful, -would have deluged Uruguay with blood for a long time, and might -otherwise have complicated the position of things, as there can be -little doubt the first act of the Blanco party would have been to do -away with the Triple Alliance, so far as Monte Video is concerned, and -to institute a renewal of their insulting conduct towards Brazil. The -changed aspect of the war, with a prospect of its speedy termination, -will strengthen the hands of the Colorados, and, it is to be hoped, -maintain peace and order in the little Republic. The writer already -mentioned goes into very minute details of the passage of Humaita by the -Brazilian ironclads; and there is quite a tinge of romance attached to -their performances, which certainly reflect the highest credit on the -gallantry of the commanders and crews; nor less so the victory obtained -by the Marquis de Caxias, the combined effects of which must lead to the -occupation of Asuncion and to the ultimate surrender or destruction of -Lopez himself. That his resistance has been wonderfully stubborn no one -can deny; still less the pertinacity which has distinguished the conduct -of the allies under difficulties pronounced by some first-rate military -authorities to be insurmountable. - -I have not yet referred to the theatrical performances now going on -here, with a company from one of the Rio theatres, which draws crowded -houses in a building almost as large as Covent Garden. It is in a very -improvised state, but sufficiently got up to answer the purpose; and in -a climate like this external appearances are not much thought of -provided there is enough ventilation, which is certainly the case in the -San Paulo Theatre. A stranger cannot help feeling surprised on entering -to see so large a place, having three tiers of boxes, filled chiefly by -well-dressed ladies, and a gallery for what we term the “gods,” the -gentlemen being in the pit, which holds fully 500 people and was quite -crowded. Each one has what we call a stall, but here cane seats, with -backs, divided by arms, so that you are very comfortably seated. The -large attendance is explained by the circumstance of the city being -dependent on casual performances, and of course everybody is anxious to -take advantage of the opportunity. There is no regular company attached -to the theatre, but the attendance, appearance, and dress of the ladies -of San Paulo on these occasions will compare favourably with what is -presented in any city of South America. As to the performance, it is -usually a compilation from some French rubbishy novel; but the acting is -tolerably good, and the audience attentive, sitting patiently for the -five or six hours commonly occupied by the piece—a very great objection. - -To-day—March 16—is the first of term at the College, where a strong -muster of students took place at an early hour of the morning, and I -believe that some of the ceremonials that occur on such occasions at -Oxford and Cambridge also prevail here. The presence of nearly a -thousand students gives a tone of animation to the old city, and is a -set-off to the constant creaking of waggon wheels and the tinkling of -bells of mules, which indicate its commercial character. Brazil is -chiefly indebted to this city for a swarm of lawyers, many of whom have -been, and continue to be, distinguished men, but it would be far better -for the country if many of them were brought up to agricultural or -commercial pursuits. - -In the seaport towns the Portuguese continue to act as the chief -traders, but in the interior the latter are mostly Brazilians. There is -now the army, the navy, and the engineering pursuits open to the youth -of Brazil, and I have no doubt they will by degrees take up positions -more beneficial to their country than that of mere disputants, or -lawyers, which characters are sadly too numerous. - -Took an early ride to the north of San Paulo on the 17th, from whence -there was a fine view of an extensive valley, where the mist was rising -and floating away to the distant hills on the other side. We met troops -of mules coming in with their drivers in their picturesque coloured -ponchos, and also a group of women approaching the city. Skirting a wood -to the left, through some pretty looking scenery, we came upon the new -Santos road, made a few years back at great expense; and a most -admirable road it is, but, it appears, not much used since the railway -was opened, passing through a most admirable road it is, but it appears, -not much used since the railway was opened, passing through a poor, -uncultivated country. If the large amount expended on this road had been -laid out at the terminus of the line at Jundiahy, towards the coffee -producing districts, it might have been of much greater importance to -the Province. Odd enough, it was made in opposition to the railway, -although it must have been evident that the latter would take a large -portion of the traffic, and that that by mules from San Paulo to Santos -would be greatly reduced. The projectors, who were chiefly large coffee -growers of the Province, might have supposed a good road to Santos would -keep a check on the railway as to charges of transit, and be used in -case of any partial stoppage of the railway; but unfortunately the heavy -rains which shut up the latter for a time also injured the common road, -rendering it impassable in places. - -Before leaving the City of San Paulo, where I have spent several -pleasant weeks, I went over what is called the House of Correction, but -is in fact a criminal reformatory for the Province and admirably -managed. The building is in a fine open space near the railway station, -enclosed on a large square plot of ground, surrounded by high walls, -inside which are gardens beautifully laid out, and kept in order by the -inmates. The main portion of the building converges into a central point -by means of arched roofs, lighted from the top, the cells abutting on -the corridors which lead thereto. Here there is also a circular raised -stone altar, on which mass is performed, and heard in all the cells -through an open iron grating with which each is provided. The workshops -are apart, leading off the garden, and consist of various trades suited -to the acquirements of the criminals; there being also a school, where -they are taught to read and write. They come to these workshops from the -main building in groups, each individual having a mark or number to -distinguish him by, and they are accompanied by a guard. The workshops -have doors with open gratings, but secured by a strong lock and key, a -sentinel doing duty during the time the men are occupied at labour, with -a time master seated in a kind of elevated pulpit to see that the work -allotted to every individual be properly done. In approaching or leaving -the workshops the men all walk with folded arms, and the whole being on -the silent system of punishment, no one is allowed to speak, except, I -conclude, when some question has to be asked through the warder or other -officer of the establishment, the discipline of which is admirably -maintained. The inmates are about 120 in number, most of them convicted -of serious crimes; they have here a dejected look, but I believe, on the -whole, the system is found to be a very efficacious one, and does really -lead to reformation of character. No female criminals are admitted, but -I understand a ward is to be built for them. We were conducted over the -establishment by the Governor, a retired colonel in the army, -accompanied by Senhor Leite Moraes, a distinguished member of the -Provincial Assembly. Much attention was shown us, and some refreshment -was provided for us in the Governor's room. Near to the reformatory, -abutting on the railway station, are the public gardens of San Paulo, on -which a good deal of money has been spent. They are well laid-out, but -not kept in order, one of the chronic defects of these kind of places in -South America generally. - - - - - SAN PAULO TO SANTOS AND RIO DE JANEIRO. - - -We finally left San Paulo after a very agreeable visit, on the 25th of -March, by the 9.30 train for Santos, with a tolerable number of -passengers, and some friends who kindly accompanied us on our journey. -Between San Paulo and San Bernardo station, a distance of about ten -miles, the road is tolerably level, and the country more or less open, -though uncultivated save in small plots. At this station I got upon the -engine with Mr. Fox, and came upon sharp curves and many cuttings until -we reached Rio Grande Station, after which, for a distance of seven -miles, the works are very heavy, some of the inclines being one in fifty -and one in sixty. Nothing near but dense forests, without a human -habitation to be seen. Approaching the top of the Serra, it appeared -completely shut in by the range of mountains in front of us, the road -winding and twisting till we suddenly reached the small platform, whence -the descent of the mountain begins, and a glorious prospect opens out of -the valley below, with the sea in the distance; yet not without a vague -feeling of anxiety as to the novel position in which we find ourselves -placed. I was allowed to ride on the break again, and it is certainly a -wonderful sight, whilst being slowly let down the lifts which I have -before described. The day was light and the atmosphere clear, the light -and shade on the dense mass of foliage with which the mountains are -clothed appearing to great advantage, like a huge carpet spread over the -face of nature. It is decidedly worth a visit from Europe to go over the -railway, and few can help wondering how it was ever made, under what -must have appeared almost insurmountable difficulties in such a country -and such a climate; the pioneers obliged to live in the forests and -often short of the necessaries of life. Without traversing the line it -is impossible to form any idea of the magnitude of the undertaking, or -how the boilers and machinery for the stationary engines were dragged up -the mountains, almost without a track, much less a road, for a total -height of 2,600 feet above the level of the sea. The Paulistos ought to -be proud of their railway, and Englishmen of the skill and endurance of -their countrymen in making it; at the same time, it cannot be denied -that many errors of construction have been committed, and even at the -present moment the working power of the line is crippled for want of -locomotives, besides which those on the metals are not adapted to it, as -I have previously explained. Red-tapery and official conceit have -produced the same result here as in other places, to give way eventually -to a practical common sense view of things; not without entailing, -however, losses upon the unfortunate shareholders. The line being again -open throughout, a considerable arrear of traffic is waiting to come -down from Jundiahy, which will severely tax the insufficient rolling -stock and locomotive power at the disposal of the manager; but at all -events it is satisfactory to know that the traffic is likely to be a -steady one, with a considerable future prospect when once its -requirements are fairly met by the company. - -We reached the foot of the Serra before noon, and at one o'clock we were -at Santos station, the whole distance from San Paulo to Santos being 48⅞ -miles; rather a long time on the way, but the Serra itself takes an -hour, and there are several stoppages at the stations. Some time is also -occupied in waiting at the foot of the Serra for the second portion of -the train (it is divided into three carriages each lift) to come down -and join before proceeding forward. This process of course takes place -both ways. Contrast this system, however, with that of pack mules, and -what an immense stride does it represent in the means of transit and -communication. - -Santos was cooler than when we went there before, and the day was fine -and bright. The steamer did not sail until four o'clock, so we strolled -about and got some dinner. The departure was punctual, and sailing down -the river to the bar the surrounding scenery, tinged by the glowing -afternoon sun, gave everything a very cheerful, though grandly -picturesque aspect. The friends who had kindly accompanied us from San -Paulo here left us in a boat, to land at the bar, which is a favourite -watering place, and where many nice cottages are built. We steamed on, -passed the small fort, and were soon in the open Atlantic, the boat -dancing about more than was agreeable to some of the passengers, who -soon disappeared below. The Santa Maria is a powerful boat, steaming her -twelve knots an hour, with very good accommodation; but the wind and sea -being against us, we did not get into Rio harbour before noon the next -day, taking 20 hours for a distance of about 180 miles. - - - - - TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA.—THE DOM PEDRO SEGUNDO RAILWAY. - - -To estimate the resources of a country with such an enormous extent of -territory as Brazil by the quantity of cotton, sugar, coffee, or other -products she actually exports, or by the extent of the towns and cities -on her seaboard, would be to form a very inadequate idea of what those -resources are capable of becoming by means of imported labour, the -extension of railways, and other transport facilities in the shape of -good roads. Even with the present limited population, railways are -calculated to swell enormously the amount of Brazilian productions, as -they naturally lead to the opening out of other modes of -intercommunication, and draw towards them subsidiary streams of traffic, -which have hitherto been unable to find a vent. It is only when a -railway penetrates the primeval forests, and goes into the heart of a -country, that an adequate idea can be formed of what it is capable of -being made, or that the state of existing cultivation can be seen under -all the drawbacks arising from the want of labour, added to the -difficult and expensive means of transport. This has been very clearly -shown in the case of the San Paulo Railway, which, with the proposed -extension to Campinas, will reach at once the great producing districts, -and enable the cultivators of them to make their calculations to a -nicety as to the cost of laying down their coffee or cotton at the port -of Santos, and whether or not it can repay them to extend their -production with the means at present under their command. The result -will doubtless be a very large addition to the exports from Santos. - -But to return to the Dom Pedro II. Railway. On the day previous to my -leaving Rio, I had made the acquaintance, through the introduction of a -friend at home, of Dr. Gunning, who, I found to my surprise, lived some -fifty miles up the line, and he very kindly invited me to remain the -night with them, instead of going on direct to Entre Rios. Accordingly -at noon the next day, (the 4th April), we started by a train that only -runs at that hour on Saturday, the ordinary ones being at 5 a.m., which -involves getting up in the middle of the night to those who are any -distance from the station. The train was a very full one, and I had to -be content with a seat on my own portmanteau at the beginning of my -journey, the carriage being open, and built in the American style, with -sofas and chairs round the sides. The station is large and commodious, -with plenty of sheds and warehouses for receiving produce. The pace was -pretty good; the train passing the suburbs of the city, then the -abatoirs, where cattle are slaughtered, with hundreds of the large black -vultures hovering about; afterwards going through the Emperor's grounds -and not far from his palace. Many fine country houses are near the line, -which become fewer in number until we reach the first station called -Sapepomba, at a short distance from which is a fine estate belonging; to -the Baron de Mauá, whose name is a household word in Brazil. This estate -is worked by an American, who married an adopted daughter of the Baron, -and has now a very large tract of sugar cane under cultivation. It -presents in other respects all the evidence of good management. The -public road runs close to the station. We proceed through lowlands, with -cattle grazing on some of them, until we reached the station of -Machabamba, in the neighbourhood of which the Baron de Bomfim has also a -large sugar estate as well as ground for grazing cattle. At this -station, as at most others, were so-called hotels, where eating and -drinking is carried on much after the fashion in other countries, and a -number of passengers got out apparently to spend the Sunday in the -country. - -After traversing some fine open country, bounded by mountains on all -sides, we crossed what is called the dismal swamp, where so many people -lost their lives during the construction of the line; this part of the -line reminded one of the swamps about which so much has been written in -connection with the Panama Railway. The next station we came to was that -of Belem, an important place at the foot of the great mountain rise. I -may perhaps observe that many plots of land, after we left the suburbs -of Rio, were cultivated with mandioca, the great staple article of food -in this country, and doubtless much of what is now a waste will soon be -brought into requisition for the production of this commodity. At Belem -there was a good display of refreshment, substantial and light creature -comforts evidently being appreciated by the Brazilians; oranges, figs, -and sweets of various kinds were brought also to the carriage doors. -Here we exchanged the ordinary English locomotive for one of the -powerful American description, calculated to mount the hills, which we -began to ascend immediately after leaving Belem station, and here -commences the really interesting feature of the works. The American -“horse,” as it is termed, began snorting, the whistle making a -frightfully loud noise,—a sort of steam gong, which can be heard at a -very great distance. The train now twists and turns round the sharp -curves, the scenery becomes grand and imposing as we go up, and at one -point, after proceeding eight or ten miles through a succession of -tunnels and embankments, a stone could be thrown across the ridge to the -place we left. The views of the valleys, with the spurs of the hills -planted with coffee and Indian corn, are very pretty, and one is called -Paraiso, or paradise, though I think that title might be much more -appropriately applied to the valley opposite Dr. Gunning's house, which -is called the Valley of Monkeys, I suppose because many exist in the -woods there. The elevation attained on reaching Dr. Gunning's station -was upwards of 1,300 feet, in about 2½ hours from Rio, and here I was -persuaded to rest over Sunday, resuming my journey by rail on Monday -morning. - -Dr. Gunning's little colony, for it quite amounts to that, took me quite -by surprise, as I was utterly ignorant of its existence. As I said -before, the valley which it overlooks might justly be termed that of -Paraiso, instead of the other we passed in ascending the mountains. It -takes a range of some 20 to 30 miles, with a series of hills or spurs -rising from it, backed by the mountains which tower over Rio de Janeiro. -The house is built on the foreground, with an extensive balcony in -front, where you sit in a rocking chair in a state of quiet ecstacy and -wonder how such an enchanting spot can be so little known in a great -city comparatively so near to it. From the balcony you can see the -trains moving upwards, popping now and again into the numerous tunnels, -there being no less than thirteen between the house and the foot of the -mountain and sixteen or seventeen over the whole line. The Doctor has -constructed two or three neat cottages on his land, and there is also -within hail a charming one erected by Mr. Gotto when he was out here as -Engineer of the Rio Improvements Company. It is situated at a point -which also commands a fine view of the noble valley, and is at present -occupied by an American merchant. The Doctor is about to build other -cottages on his land, and is laying out the site for a hotel, which -ought to be very attractive to Rio residents in search of fresh air and -renovated health. It is difficult to conceive a more lovely situation, -or one surrounded by more attractive scenery. Before dinner we took a -walk in the fine shady woods below the house, and at night enjoyed the -effect of a splendid moon from a balcony where the scene in Romeo and -Julliet might be admirably enacted, a place of all others adapted for -the interchange of “lovers' vows.” We were, however, a very -sober-minded, but pleasant party, and enjoyed ourselves with -“sweethearts and wives” over a glass of toddy. On Sunday morning I rose -early to look at one of the greatest natural curiosities it is possible -to conceive. A light vapoury mist, “white as the driven snow,” covered -the entire valley; with here and there the tops of hills appearing like -islands in a sea; indeed, one could hardly believe that what one saw was -simply mist, and not something more tangible and substantial. This -gradually disappeared as the sun topped the heights, and then all became -bright and verdant as on the previous day. Residents in the valley feel -wrapt in a kind of shroud whilst the mist is over them, but no evil -effects appear to result from it. An American missionary, Mr. Blackford, -who was for some time stationed at the city of San Paulo, and was, with -his wife, a guest of Dr. Gunning, read a portion of the Church Service -in Portuguese and preached a sermon in the same language to the -household and a number of people employed about the place, after which -we wandered about, dined, and enjoyed another quiet moonlight evening -looking over the happy valley. There is quite a little society of -Americans residing about here, which renders it anything but a solitude. - -I left this hospitable retreat on Monday, by the train which passes at 8 -a.m., and continued to find a series of wonderful curves and tunnels -until we reached the station of Barra, where a good comfortable -breakfast was waiting for such passengers as chose to avail of it. - -I was joined by the son of Mr. Ellison, head engineer of the line, who -is making a branch near Disengano station, in the direction of San -Paulo, with which it is eventually intended to connect this province. He -made himself very agreeable, and gave me much valuable information. - -I should not omit to allude to the really beautiful scenery passed -through between Entre Rios and Barra, where the passengers breakfasted. -I walked to look at a very handsome bridge erected over the River -Parahyba, which becomes here a considerable stream, running the whole -distance to Entre Rios, where it meets the Parahybuna, which comes down -from Minas Geraes, the latter emptying itself into the sea at San Joao -de Barra, after passing the important town of Campos. - -The railway, which is here 122 miles in length from Rio de Janeiro, is -to be extended to another point on the Parahyba called Porto da Cunha, -making a total distance of about 160 miles, the latter portion tapping -valuable sources of traffic, as the river is only navigable a short way -from its mouth. Besides its 16 tunnels, small and great, the railway is -crossed by several handsome bridges, first to one bank of the river and -then the other, as the gradients were found favourable, and there is one -very fine station, called Disengano, a portion of the cost of which was -contributed by the Marqueza de Bependi, who has a magnificent fazenda -near to it, and numerous large picturesque fazendas are seen at -different bends of the river, which rolls along in its rocky bed, with a -succession of small rapids, the hills above it being covered with -coffee, Indian corn, and mandioca, all now ripe. Where this cultivation -does not exist either virgin forests or cattle grazing form the variety, -and the former still occupy a large portion of the country we passed -through, particularly between Uba station and that of Parahyba do Sul. I -am told that Vassoura, a city about seven miles from the station of that -name, is prettily situated and interesting, but of course it is -impossible to see everything in so extraordinary a range of country. - -We reached Entre Rios station before noon, and found the stage coach -waiting; also a tolerable dinner, which the flies tried to participate -in, being only held in check by boys with large feather fans. The place, -I believe, is infested by flies from the number of mules kept there; but -the company is improving and extending the accommodation for passengers, -the head station being 800 feet in length. The guard of the “Mazeppa” -summons the passengers, and away we started with four good mules, amidst -dust and bustle, by a regular stage coach of the old English type, the -first stage being along the banks of the Rio Preto, coming down from the -mines. The road was all that had been described to me and more; a -perfectly good, smooth, macadamised one, fenced in with groups of bamboo -on the river side and aloes on the other, along which we drove at the -rate of nine to ten miles an hour. I was inside at starting, but some -passengers left at the second station, Parahybuna, when I mounted on the -front seat for the remainder of the journey, and enjoyed as fine a ride, -for good travelling and good scenery, as it is possible to conceive. - -The road belongs to a Brazilian company called the “Uniao e Industria,” -started some few years back, and now carrying on a large and profitable -traffic, chiefly in merchandise; but the stage coaches are a very -important feature as regards accommodation for the public. The stations -where they change mules are large and commodious, with warehouses for -receiving produce, and that of Parahybuna is in a most picturesque -situation, a huge granite mountain on one side and in front of the -river, which rushes down over rocks, forming cascades here and there, -with a long bridge which we had to cross. A good many dwelling houses -are built about these stations, belonging, I conclude, to people -connected with the road. Our next station was Simon Pereira, about which -there is a good deal of woodland scenery, reminding one of parts of -Wales, with the road winding in and out round the hills; and on this -stage is a very fine fazenda known by the name of Solidade, the property -of the Baron Bertiago, comprising, I am told, an immense district. Here -we again come upon the mountain stream, which runs through the valley, -always forming a rapid current as we keep ascending. - -The next stage was Barboza, where we came up with another diligence, -also from Petropolis, with a party, having a band of music outside, and -Portuguese and Brazilian flags flying. They kept ahead of us, but at the -last stage, Ponto Americano, a most romantic spot, we started almost -together, our companion still keeping the lead, at a strong gallop, -which our coachman imitated, and it was anything but an agreeable race -into Juiz de Fora, to say nothing of the dust we had to take up in the -wake of the front diligence. Nothing could be more beautiful than the -scenery for the last stages, coffee and Indian corn plantations -succeeded each other, mingled with virgin forests, grazing ground, -waterfalls in the distance, entire trees covered with purple and yellow -flowers, a perfect galaxy of tropical vegetation in its most attractive -forms. The evening was pleasantly cool,—so cool as to cause one to -button up his coat, and there was a sensation of freshness in the air -like that of an autumn evening at home. - -As the two coaches approached Juiz de Fora a large number of its -residents turned out to see the arrival, which I believe was that of -some new settlers, who must have been gratified with their reception. We -drove on to the coach station, where I found that the gentleman I was -anxious to see had gone to his fazenda that morning, some leagues -distant; so I determined to await his return and went to a small hotel -close to, called the “Union,” where I made myself as comfortable as the -limited accommodation would permit. - -[Illustration: Residence of Senhor Lage.] - -Juiz de Fora is pleasantly situated on an elevated plateau, some 2,600 -feet above the level of the sea, with a background of fine cultivated -hills and a very picturesque waterfall. The originator and director of -the flourishing company “Uniao e Industria” has built a magnificent -house on an elevated spot which overlooks the whole valley, and his -grounds are beautifully laid out with every species of tree to be found -in Brazil, as well as those brought from other countries. There are -ornamental waters, with swans, rare specimens of water fowl, and numbers -of valuable birds, fowls, monkeys,—in fact, a little Zoological Garden -of itself. Everything in the establishment was in keeping, evincing the -good taste of the owner and the liberal manner in which he expends his -large fortune. I had also the opportunity of going over a new building -called the School of Agriculture, where modern agricultural implements -are to be collected, as well as samples of live stock to improve the -breed of cattle. There is a capital English stallion, two years old, -descended from the celebrated Stockwell, brought out from England at -great expense; another one of Norman breed, besides brood mares, bulls, -Alderney cows—in short, the nucleus of a respectable cattle show, which -it is intended to become, and the Emperor has announced his intention to -visit the place in June next, though it will take some time to make it -complete and in a state of efficiency. An intelligent Swiss gentleman -presides over the School of Agriculture, and an English groom is very -proud, as he may well be, of the silky coat and the healthy appearance -of the descendant of Stockwell. - -There is a nice little German colony at Juiz de Fora, mostly artisans in -the company's employ, who live in very snug cottages, with little -gardens attached to them, the women keeping cows, selling milk, &c. A -death had occurred the day I was there, and the funeral was attended by -all the elders of the colony, men and women, dressed in their best -clothes, forming a very interesting group. The company employ some 3,000 -mules in the traffic of their line, the breakers of them, as well as the -coach drivers, being Germans. Mr. Treloar, jun., arrived from Rio with -his wife and family during my stay here, leaving the next day with a -large troop of mules, on a seven days' journey up to the mines. - -Having seen all of interest in Juiz de Fora, I started on Thursday, the -9th of April, to return to Entre Rios, and thence on by the same “Uniao -e Industria” road to Petropolis, a total distance of about 107 miles. I -found the second half of the road as interesting as the first half I had -gone over—all in the same perfect state, some parts between Entre Rios -and Petropolis passing through splendid mountain scenery. Near Entre -Rios the river is crossed by a very fine iron bridge. We reached -Petropolis at dusk, amidst a shower of rain, the first I had met with on -the whole journey, during which the weather was remarkably fine and cool -in the higher ranges of the road, though hot and dusty on the level -parts. For nearly the whole fifty miles the road winds by the bed of a -rapid mountain stream, descending from the mountainous district about -Petropolis, going to swell the river of which it is the source, forming -a succession of cascades, the noise of whose waters makes “music to the -ear,” enhancing the grandeur of the scenery through which it passes as -well as cooling the atmosphere. - -I should not neglect to mention the extensive cart traffic over the -road, which constitutes the real income of the company, and has enabled -it to pay the large dividend of 10 to 14 per cent. These carts are all -of one pattern, with names and numbers on them, drawn generally by five -mules, with a spare one attached. We were constantly meeting them going -up and down, and whether they have got more into the way of it, or the -mules are now better trained, we met with no such inconveniences as Mr. -Hinchcliffe describes in his book, though the windings and turnings of -the road are often of such a nature as to require a “bright look out,” -and the use of a shrill whistle—the horn being only sounded on -approaching the end of the journey. By means of the rail and coach, Rio -morning papers are delivered at Juiz de Fora, a distance of 170 miles by -rail and road, the same evening. Formerly it required a week to -communicate between the two places. A large quantity of stone is -collected along the road to keep it in order, and at certain distances -are men breaking them in the most old fashioned manner possible. They -are chiefly Portuguese immigrants. - -I had not been at Petropolis for twenty years, during which time there -has been a large increase of building and population, but I was sorry to -learn that this prosperity is likely to be evanescent, in consequence of -the soil suitable for cultivation by the German colonists being worn -out, and still more by the Dom Pedro II. Railway turning the stream of -traffic, which previously to its opening to Entre Rios had continued to -flow from the mines through Petropolis and down the splendid mountain -road, conveying goods and passengers to the Mauá Railway, and thence by -steamer to Rio. Of course, the railway from Entre Rios to Rio de -Janeiro, though longer as regards mileage, is quicker and more direct, -with a saving in expense to travellers, even if produce and merchandise -were conveyed at equal rates by the two roads, but it must be the -interest of the country to keep both the roads open, as, in the case of -accidental stoppage, the Petropolis one is always available. It is not -unlikely that terms will be come to by the two companies so as to -prevent injurious competition, as the country has had to pay large sums -of money for the installation and maintenance of both roads. - -I remained over Sunday at Petropolis, but it turned out a very wet day, -and I was not able to go about much, or to take advantage of the -splendid view there is from the top of the mountain down to the Bay of -Rio de Janeiro. We started at 6.30 on Monday morning in a carriage with -four mules, and descended amidst heavy rain and a dense mist, so that -none of the beauties of the locality were visible. At the foot of the -Serra, the railway train was waiting, and we soon reached the place of -embarkation by steamer, arriving at Rio about 10.30, after a week's -absence, during which I have acquired a better knowledge of the progress -and resources of this part of the country than any other means of -information could have supplied. As regards the great internal road on -which I have dwelt so much, it is decidedly one of the marvels of -Brazil. - - - - - RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE RIVER PLATE. - - - SECOND TRIP. - -On my return to Rio on Saturday, the 11th of April I found the City of -Brussels had arrived after a very quick passage from Falmouth of twenty -days, and she was leaving next morning (Sunday) for the River; so I -resolved to go by her and complete my visit, which had been so recently -unfortunately interrupted. A difficulty occurred, owing to the police -requiring me to give three days' notice in the public papers of my -intention to leave, and they refused to _visa_ the passport I brought -with me, though it had already served on other similar occasions. The -only way to get over the obstacle was to take a surety to the police -office, who would be responsible for any debts I might have contracted, -and after driving backwards and forwards for some hours, at considerable -trouble and expense, this requirement was satisfied. This absurd and -vexatious system of passports is one of the old relics of barbarism -which Brazil ought to do away with, and the sooner the better; nor is it -any protection against roguery, as every one knows how easily such -regulations are evaded in the latter case. Countries like Brazil ought -to be as free as the air, and all possible facility given to travellers -who only come for information or amusement, and have no business -relations. Passports do not exist in the Great Republic of the North, -and France has abolished them, so let us hope Brazil will follow in the -wake, and evince equal liberality in dealing with passengers' luggage. - -We were to leave at 8 a.m. on Sunday, but were detained for dispatches -until ten, and finally passed the fort at 11 a.m., with a light wind but -much swell, indicating a southerly wind, of which we got the benefit the -next day. I may mention that the City of Brussels is a splendid new -steamer of Tait's line, and made the first departure under their -contract with the Belgian Government. At Antwerp a grand entertainment -had been given to the authorities on the day of her departure, and on -Saturday a party was entertained on board at Rio. - -After encountering rather a strong southerly gale, we made the River on -Thursday night, and came to an anchor off Monte Video early on Friday, -the passage having been run in five days. It blew so hard, with so much -swell on, that it was some time before we got on shore, on reaching -which I went to my old quarters at the Gran Hotel Americano, meeting -several old friends there. The aspect of Monte Video was greatly changed -for the better since my last visit, when the cholera was making such -fearful ravages and an air of activity pervaded the place, -notwithstanding the sad tragedy which had occurred in the assassination -of General Flores. Rumours of political troubles still prevailed, but -there was nothing on the surface to indicate them, and the nightly -gathering on the Plaza to hear the band had been resumed, although for -some time after the murder of the President the Plaza was held by troops -and guns planted at the corner of it. - -A visit to Buchentall's quinta occupied the greater part of one day, and -a delightful place it is, enclosed in spacious grounds, provided with -choice trees, beautiful exotics, a large conservatory, and other glass -houses; in fact, with everything which a cultivated taste can devise. -There is a large kitchen garden attached, and quite a plantation of pear -trees, loaded with splendid pears, for which Monte Video is famous. The -stables and farm buildings are extensive, and, like the house, they are -in the Swiss cottage style; they are tenanted by fine horses, valuable -cows, and other descriptions of cattle. Everything is in perfect order. -The view from the upper ground, at the back of the house, is very -fine—the city, the harbour filled with shipping, and the mounts at its -entrance, the waters of the La Plata glistening beyond in the sunlight. -It is a bright, beautiful day, and certainly at this season the climate -is very agreeable, so different from the intense heat experienced in the -month of January. After leaving the quinta, we extended our drive, -passing by many pretty country houses, some of peculiar but tasteful -architecture, and stopped at a house on the road side, kept by a -Frenchman, where we got an excellent cold luncheon and drove back to the -city. - -Expecting the steamer to sail the same night, we embarked before dark, -but were disappointed, the cargo not being all discharged. We did not -get away until next evening. Had we known this we might have seen the -races, which took place the following morning, to see which I believe -more than half the population turned out, the Custom House and public -buildings being closed. South Americans are fond of excitement, though -horse-racing is comparatively a new amusement for them, being chiefly -got up by foreigners. Whilst at dinner on Monday afternoon, the wind, -which had been blowing moderately from the north, suddenly veered round -to the south, and soon after we left the harbour increased to a pampero, -causing a nasty cross sea and a very disagreeable motion in the ship, -which sent most of the passengers to bed early. It is not a very -pleasant navigation in such weather, with banks lying in the way, and -shallow water in many places, and we were glad when daylight came to -find ourselves near the outer roads of Buenos Ayres. This exposed -roadstead, having to lie so far from the shore, is a great drawback, -rendering the expense of discharging and loading very heavy, but there -is no help for it, nor any prospect of improvement in this respect. They -have very fine boats and lighters, with first-rate boatmen, and, as a -rule, accidents are rare, unless when the fierce pamperos drive -everything before them. - -This is my second visit to Buenos Ayres, after a lapse of 15 years, and, -although from the sea no remarkable change appears to the eye, yet, -after landing, the enormous increase of the city soon becomes apparent, -about which I shall say more presently. The Mole and Custom House were -new to me, as also the landing pier for boats—a very great convenience -and improvement on the old carts, into which you had to get from the -boat. The weather, which had been cool at Monte Video, became positively -cold here, cloaks and great coats being the order of the day. It is now -approaching the coldest season of the year, with some sharp frost at -night, which has blackened the potatoes and other vegetables outside the -city; and the sunny side of the street is decidedly preferable to the -shady one, a very different state of things to that which existed when I -was at Monte Video, in January, with the heat frequently above 90 -degrees. - - - - - CITY OF BUENOS AYRES. - - -It is not an easy task to describe the great changes that have taken -place in this city since my visit fourteen years ago. At the same time -they are so remarkable as to require a special notice. - -My views at that time were sanguine as to the progress of these River -Plate countries, but they have been more than realised, notwithstanding -political and other drawbacks. Suffice it to say that Buenos Ayres has -nearly doubled in size since I was last here, and, although no public -census that I am aware of has ever been taken, the population of the -city and environs must almost have augmented in the same ratio. The -difficulties of the roadstead remain, but a forest of masts, extending -for many miles in the outer and inner roads, together with a -considerable number of steamers (the latter particularly in the inner -roads) meets the eye, and two piers, or moles, have been erected, one -exclusively used for Custom House purposes, the other for boats and -passengers, but a large portion of the traffic is still carried on by -the carts which go alongside the boats with cargo or to take it away. -Landing at the mole, a busy scene presents itself in the conveyance of -passengers' luggage, which is taken charge of by the peons or porters, -and carried for examination to the little depot at the entrance to the -mole. Afterwards it is allowed to proceed in carts or carriages to its -destination. - -Being built in squares, the increase of the city is not very apparent -until you get fairly into it; but the numerous two or three-storied -houses, the large new hotels, the fine shops and warehouses, and the -great movement in the street, all indicate a thriving place of business, -which Buenos Ayres unquestionably is. Most of the streets running direct -from the river are now three miles in length, and they cover an equal -breadth, so it is easy to judge the extent of the ground covered; -besides which, very many handsome quintas, or country houses, are to be -seen in every direction outside the city. The streets generally are -badly paved, and make very rough work for carts and carriages passing -over them, but these manage to get along with considerable wear and tear -of wheels and springs, as well as horses' feet, which, however, appear -to be quite a secondary consideration. After the well-paved streets of -Rio de Janeiro, both Monte Video and Buenos Ayres cut a very poor -figure; but the worst feature is the absence of sewerage, and the refuse -of the town is at times very offensive to the olfactory nerves, and -destroys the appellative “good airs,” which is otherwise a -characteristic of the place under ordinary circumstances, or as nature -intended it to be. The inhabitants seem to have had a wretched municipal -system; but for this there is no reason why the city should not be well -drained, well paved, as well as properly lighted with gas, which latter -is now the case. - -Strangers have a choice of really very large and commodious hotels, and -there are boarding and lodging houses of various kinds, but at seasons -accommodation in them is very difficult to obtain, such is the constant -increase of demand by visitors as well as by permanent residents; in -fact, the requirements of the population are constantly overtaking the -facilities of the city, and there appears to be no reasonable limit to -its extension north, south, and west, the river facing eastward. The -chief increase, however, has been westward, or in a straight line from -the river frontage into the country. Owing to the necessities of an -augmenting population, the price of building land in or near the city -has been driven up to a very high figure, and rents, as a matter of -course, are excessive. Increased population has been followed by -enhanced luxury, which manifests itself in the style of architecture, in -the splendid shops, in the number of private carriages as well as those -for hire, but naturally this has been attended by an inflated -expenditure. Living in Buenos Ayres is now quite as expensive as in -London or Paris; perhaps more so as regards luxuries, the import duties -on which are very heavy. Generally, Buenos Ayres is a dear place to live -in. Amongst other new buildings is the large theatre called Colon, and a -Music-hall, the latter erected by private subscription. It is lofty and -light, tastefully decorated, and I believe very well filled when -concerts are held there, being also occasionally used for dinners. - -The busiest part of the city, commercially speaking, is down by the -Custom House and on to the Boca, the latter the rendezvous of lighters -conveying produce to the ships in the outer roads, as well as of small -steamers bound up river, and I understand that 300 lighters are now -engaged in this work, many of them of good size and decked over. It is -in contemplation to deepen and enlarge the Riachuelo, as the stream -alluded to is called, and a most useful work it will be, as it is almost -the mainstay of the port. At the other extremity of the city, which -borders on the Northern Railway, washing of clothes is carried on among -the willow trees which border the river; it is quite a sight on a fine -sunny day. On the high ground about and beyond the Retiro, numerous -handsome villas have been erected and the Retiro itself has been planted -with trees, forming a pleasant promenade. In addition to other -improvements and conveniences, omnibuses now ply from the city in -various directions, so that locomotion is greatly facilitated, and -people can live out of the city without the trouble of keeping -conveyances, if they object to this, or have not the means to maintain -them. Commerce is extending rapidly, and the Custom House revenue has -doubled itself within a very few years. - - - - - BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA.—ESTANZUELLA. - - -The invitation of Mr. William White to spend a few days at his estancia -took me over to Colonia, from which it is distant about 15 miles, amidst -the beautiful undulating country of the Banda Oriental. Three to four -hours is the time usually occupied in crossing the river, almost in a -direct line from Buenos Ayres, and the steamer in which I embarked had -very comfortable accommodation but few passengers on board. There was a -small boat in opposition to the one I was in, and we arrived very close -together. - -Colonia is one of the oldest settlements in the River, being built upon -a peninsula jutting out into the stream, with a snug little harbour, -which is in course of improvement. The town presents a dilapidated and -neglected appearance, which is accounted for by its having, until -recently, been fortified, and made the head-quarters of different -factions during the long civil wars. There is a large church, with three -high towers, visible at a considerable distance, and a lighthouse for -the protection of vessels passing, as several low islands are situated -close to the harbour. Some good looking houses have lately been erected, -and the site of a new town laid, but it will be many years before it is -likely to assume any importance. I noticed an old gateway, with an -inscription dated 1724 over it. - -I found Mr. White's carriage waiting for me at Colonia. It was drawn by -four horses, the road being heavy for a few miles, but after that we got -into a good one,—a kind of beaten track over what is called the campo, -and for the first time I realised the pleasurable feeling of travelling -over a sea of land, if it can be so named, where, excepting an -occasional _puesto_, or shepherd's hut, not a human habitation is to be -seen. The undulations of the land are here very like the long roll of -the ocean, by which it is supposed to have been formed, and you are at -once in the midst of cattle, horses, and sheep, with grass and thistles -growing everywhere, the thistles in many cases being masters of the -situation. - -It was getting foggy before we reached Mr. White's estancia, but the -light of the moon assisted our course across an apparently trackless -country. I found Mr. White's quinta a very pretty and comfortable -residence, surrounded by trees and evergreens, all of which have been -planted by the present owner. The whole place is in fact the creation of -some ten years, showing what can be done in this country by a judicious -application of capital and labour. The house and estate cover a space of -some nine square miles, the former being built on an elevated spot, -called “Monte” (or the “Mount,”) and occupying with grounds about 50 -acres of good rich soil, overlooking an amphitheatre of hill and dale, -which stretches as far as the eye can reach, with “puestos” or -shepherds' cottages at regular distances, where the cattle and sheep are -collected together at dusk and let out again at daylight. This is a most -interesting process, which I have seen described, but it can only be -realised personally. It is something like marshalling a scattered army -and bringing them into a given square. The shepherds or peons go -galloping about until the cattle and sheep are gathered together, when -they all, as by a kind of instinct, find their way to the corral or -fold. At dawn the following morning they are let out again and roam for -miles over the estate. The arrangements at a good estancia like that of -Mr. White's are very complete, and every one understands his work, but -of course the eye of a master is required to see that the work is -properly done. The stock on this estancia consists of about 30,000 -sheep, upwards of 1,000 head of cattle, and some 100 horses. - -[Illustration: Mr. White's House at Estanzuella.] - -My first day was employed in visiting several of the stations, and very -agreeable it was cantering over the springy turf, clothed with grass and -thistles, where the sheep and cattle were quietly feeding. Buttercups -glittered in the sunshine, but we missed the modest daisies so familiar -at home. We were on horseback five hours, and I returned to dinner -highly delighted with all I had seen. The second day we took the -carriage and a gun, as partridges are plentiful and innumerable flocks -of doves. Paid a visit to the estancia of Mr. Giffard, about six miles -distant in a direct line, but further by the course we had to take, -partly over the open campo. Returning we came close upon some half-dozen -ostriches and Mr. White shot at and wounded a very fine male; but it was -a painful sight to see the struggles of the poor bird, and we were -obliged to get one of the men from a neighbouring station to dispatch it -with his knife. Many of these noble birds are still to be met with in -the campo, where they are pursued by the natives for the value of the -feathers. I was presented with a portion of the feathers of the ostrich -killed as described. The third day we were again on horseback for -several hours, with a boy carrying a gun and some refreshment. We rode -along one of the running streams with which the campo is favoured, to -look for some ducks, but the streams were very low, and we only -succeeded in bagging one. These streams are invaluable for cattle, and -the Banda Oriental in this respect is more fortunate than Buenos Ayres, -and in consequence suffers less from drought. Finding game so scarce, -the boy was sent home, and we cantered on to visit some of the other -stations I had not yet seen, the weather throughout being beautifully -fine, clear sunshine, with a bracing and most exhilarating breeze. - -There are some curious collections of rocks mostly on the margins of the -streams. Huge boulders, thrown up it would seem by some convulsion of -nature, and between which trees and enormous cactuses have forced their -way, in cases even splitting the stone, especially present a most -singular appearance. About Mr. Giffard's quinta there is quite a large -formation of this kind, and a collection of very fine ombu trees, -several with immense trunks and evidently of great age. - -To-day, the last of my visit, has been spent in riding about the quinta, -watching the operation of lassoing and bringing into the corral a -refractory bull and cow that had left their companions and roamed miles -away. The dexterity of the peons, and the way they manage their horses -on these occasions, is something wonderful, and fairly exhausts the -strength of the animals. - -This is the finest season of the year in these countries, and it is -impossible to imagine anything more pleasing or more cheerful than the -present aspect of the campo. The next two or three months constitute the -winter season, which is rainy and cold. September and October (their -spring) are generally fine. The heat of summer is, of course, -considerable, but it is not so much felt in the open country, where a -fresh breeze, as a rule, prevails; it is the towns that are most -disagreeable at that period. - -To-morrow, I return to Colonia, highly gratified with all I have -observed, and with the kind hospitality I have experienced. As I have -said, partridges are abundant, but they commonly go singly, and without -a pointer they are difficult to follow. Mr. White, however, shot two -brace close to his house, when we were walking out before breakfast, and -several single ones on other occasions. They are prettily marked birds -and delicate eating. He did not happen to have a suitable dog by him at -the time. The shepherds all keep fine dogs, mostly of the retriever -breed, to assist them in managing their flocks, and there were a good -many attached to the house and out-buildings; one of the former, a -Scotch terrier, and myself becoming very great friends. - - - - - TRIP ON THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. - - -I am writing this on board the “Lujan” steamer, built in Buenos Ayres, -with engines by a Glasgow house. She is a comfortable boat, with good -accommodation for passengers, and the “vivers” excellent, including even -champagne at dinner, which in this country is rather an expensive -luxury. After a lapse of fifteen years I find myself once more ascending -the noble Parana river, which at that time was almost unknown in Buenos -Ayres, the little “Argentine” being the first commercial steamer that -ever navigated its waters. I predicted the results a few years would -bring about, and my expectations have been more than realised, the river -being now as freely navigated by steamers as some of those in the United -States, with the difference of course that there is not the same amount -of population on its banks—population being still the great want of this -boundless region. - -The station for passengers for the up-river boats is now the terminus of -the Northern Railway, at a small stream called Tigre, which is reached -in something over an hour's time. We left the station at 10 a.m., and -arrived at the wharf alongside which the steamer lay at 11.30. All the -passengers, with their luggage, were soon on board, and we started, -wending our way through the small branches of the Parana, in many places -not wider than a canal, the steamer brushing against the overhanging -trees. A couple of hours brought us at last into the wide embouchure of -the river at a point named Palmas. - -The advantage of the Tigre as a starting point for steamers is that it -avoids the disagreeable boating in the roads of Buenos Ayres and -crossing the bay for Martin Garcia; in every way it is a desirable -arrangement, alike beneficial to the steamers and to the railway. -Upwards of a dozen steamers were laying outside the Tigre, in a stream -called Lujan (after which this boat is named), two of them large -double-decked Yankee river boats and nearly all of them without -occupation—a terrible sacrifice of valuable property. Having discussed a -solid _dejeuner à la fourchette_, I came on deck to enjoy the scenery. -It was blowing a fresh breeze, dead against us, with a strong current -and very cold, cloaks and great coats being a necessity although the day -was bright and sunny. For several hours we steamed along, passing only -jungle and dense masses of trees, with numerous sailing craft at anchor, -laden with cargo, many bound upwards, no doubt with stores for the army -in Paraguay. - -Just before sunset we passed a very fine quinta, belonging to the -Minister of Education, Senor Costa, built on a beautiful barranca, or -elevated ground, a short way from the river, the horsemen on the heights -presenting a very picturesque appearance. - -Dinner was announced, which occupied fully an hour, and afterwards I -went on deck and enjoyed a night on the noble Parana. The wind had gone -down, and the stars shed their light over the still water, on which the -shadow of the trees was reflected, our course being occasionally close -to them, though at times we had to take the mid stream. Now and again -the sky was lighted up with fires, caused, I believe, by the burning of -wood for charcoal, a process which might go on for centuries without -exhausting the illimitable extent of wood. A large traffic is carried on -in this material by river craft to Buenos Ayres and Monte Video. We -stopped to land passengers at a station called Hermanos, and soon after -passed two or three steamers at anchor, with some sailing vessels near -them, no doubt connected with the war services. Our passengers are a -motley group, speaking all languages, and amusing themselves by playing -cards, chess, and dominoes, the while talking and chattering away at the -top of their voices; some ladies amongst them as merry as the rest. Many -Italians, French, and Germans are met on board these steamers, but -comparatively few English, who remain more in the cities and towns, or -at their estancias when resident in the country. After a fine, clear, -starlight night, the latter part aided by a bright moon, the day broke -grandly, and we soon came to anchor at the little port of San Nicolas, -where we landed and took in some passengers. Then came a good, -substantial breakfast, and at about eleven o'clock the large saladeros -near Rosario were in sight. We brought up alongside a coal hulk, where -the steamer had to take in fuel before returning to Buenos Ayres the -same afternoon. - -A number of sailing vessels and steamers were laying at anchor at -Rosario, making quite a busy scene. I landed in a small punt to find my -way to the house of a friend. The aspect of Rosario was not much -changed, looking at it from the river, with the towers of the church in -the background, the town itself being more or less concealed by the high -barranca. On entering it, however, I was quite lost. Streets have been -extended in every direction for more than a mile, and I should say it -has doubled or trebled in size and population since I was here. Whatever -prejudicial effects the Paraguayan war may have produced in other -respects, there can be no question that Rosario has largely benefitted, -the place being one of call for steamers and sailing vessels up and -down; and it also supplies a considerable quantity of stores for the -army. The value of land and property has gone up to a high figure, and -the poorer portion of the population are obliged to squat wherever they -can find room to build a rancho, or kind of mud hut. Gauchos galloping -about in their picturesque costume showed that we were in a new -province, and although civilisation has extended itself here somewhat -after the fashion of Buenos Ayres, there are evident signs that it is -intermingled with much of the wild habits of a life in the Pampas. - -The great object of my visit here was of course to see the Central -Argentine Railway, and certainly those accustomed to the imposing -appearance of railway stations at home will hardly be impressed with the -rough and ready wildness of the scene which presents itself here. A few -disjointed wooden sheds in an open plain, one side bordering on the -river, some carriages and covered waggons on the rails, at this time -constitutes the terminus of a line already carried 158 miles into the -interior; but all this is merely temporary and will give place to the -permanent station now in process of formation, and upon which hundreds -of labourers are at present constantly at work. The material is all -there in readiness, and the station would have been much further -advanced had it not been for the cholera, which caused such terrible -devastations here a few months ago. Internal commotions have also tended -to retard progress. Happily these scourges are for the time at least -passed away, and it is to be hoped nothing will again interfere to -prevent the completion of a line of such vital interest in connection -with the material development of the country between Rosario and -Cordova. - -I was curious to see the first arrival and starting of the trains, which -did not indicate much traffic; but this can hardly be looked for until -the metals are carried through and the railway possesses all the needful -appliances, not to speak of the prejudices of a people who have been -accustomed to gallop over the wide plains like the Arabs of old, and use -those antique structures drawn by bullocks, which are yet destined to be -abandoned to rot in their final resting place, or be removed further -west to bring traffic to the Cordova station. Engineeringly speaking, it -is the easiest possible task to make a railway through such a country as -this, but other drawbacks and difficulties exist in the absence of -population and of conveniences to which we are accustomed in England. It -is a refreshing sight in Rosario to see so large a mixture of the -foreign element. New banks and large establishments are in operation and -Estanceiros constantly coming into town to transact their business. -Among the visitors at Rosario are many Englishmen from the districts -round about, who have not been murdered by the Indians, notwithstanding -the stories prevalent to that effect, and I hear of numerous thriving -colonies in the neighbourhood, which I regret time will not permit my -visiting, as the extent of my ramble must now be confined to going over -the railway. I repeat that my impression as to the future of Rosario, -after all it has lately gone through, is favourable, and I am perfectly -satisfied of the go-a-head nature of every thing in this prosperous -province. - -The train for Rosario starts at 8 a.m., and is due at Villa Nueva, a -distance of 158 miles, at 6 p.m., travelling at an average speed of -nearly sixteen miles an hour, including eight stoppages—quite sufficient -for present purposes, with a train composed of waggons and two American -passenger cars, one for first and the other for second class. We got off -a little after eight o'clock with a good long train and the cars were -pretty well filled. For the first two or three stations the ground is -slightly undulating, covered with good pasture, on which numerous herds -of cattle, flocks of sheep, and horses were feeding; afterwards, or -about half-way between Rosario and Villa Nueva, there are few cattle -seen, though the food for them is there in any quantity. At Roldan, the -first station from Rosario, some tents were erected, and horses -collected, in course of training for the races to be held on Monday -next, the 25th of May, at which there is generally a large gathering of -sporting characters from that and other districts, as also of spectators -from Rosario. It is an English club, with the usual array of stewards, -umpires, &c. The meeting is expected to be a very good one. The next -station is Carcaranal, near which the river is crossed by a handsome -iron bridge, the river itself flowing for a very long distance through -the province of Cordova and Santa Fé, ultimately merging its waters with -those of the Parana. These first two stations are mere mud huts, being -only temporary, but Carcaranal has the additional disadvantage of being -placed in the midst of a black, dismal, dry lagoon, where a butcher's -establishment is kept for supplying a portion of the company's workmen -on the line with meat. The rancho, or station for the passengers, might -as well be removed, however, a few hundred yards further back, the -engine going on to get its supply of water at one of the tanks placed -here, instead of the olfactory nerves of the passengers being exposed to -an ordeal of no agreeable character. I believe the nuisance is much -complained of and will soon be removed. - -The next station, Canada de Gomez, is a very respectable brick-built -one, well kept, where we found some excellent partridges just cooked, -which soon disappeared amongst hungry passengers, who had not time to -breakfast before leaving, and there were also other refreshments. About -this and Tortugas station is some very good land, and numerous English -estancias in the neighbourhood, which I am assured are in a thriving -condition, the aspect of the country being also more cheerful. We saw -the plough at work, and I believe a large quantity of corn will soon be -grown in this district. Further on, about Leones station, the country -becomes more monotonous, one dead sea of brown-looking grass, without -cattle or any appearance of cultivation, and not a shrub or tree to be -seen. We passed a long train of carts from Rosario, filled with -merchandise for distant places; also troops of laden mules going in the -same direction, as the facilities offered by the railway are not yet -sufficient to do away with this cumbrous and expensive mode of transit. -This, however, is only a question of time. As we approached Frayle -Muerto station, trees began to appear, and we passed through quite a -forest, which was very pleasant after the long stretch of land bare of -shrub or tree. The station at Frayle Muerto is a substantial brick -building, and will be very commodious when completed. We had plenty of -time to get some dinner here, and being rather behind, it was dark when -we reached the present terminus at Villa Nueva, where I was kindly -received by the manager, Mr. Lloyd, who gave me a shake down for the -night at his comfortable little cottage close to the station. There I -found a nephew of Mr. Wheelright and Senor Don Gonzalez, late Minister -of Finance, with his family, waiting to proceed to Cordova next morning. -I was fortunate, too, in having for fellow-travellers on the line Senor -Moneta, the Government engineer, and Senor Crisofuli, both proceeding to -Cordova on business connected with the railway, so the journey passed -very agreeably and was anything but fatiguing for the distance. There is -ample room in the carriages, which also have the advantage of enabling -the passengers to go from one portion to the other and conversing with -acquaintances who may happen to be there. This is much better than being -stuck in a close carriage without any chance of relief. Indeed, I think -for all South American railways the American saloon carriages are the -most suitable as well as the most economical. - -I was up early next morning to see the train start at seven for Rosario, -and diligences for Cordova, Rio Cuarto, and other places. The last was a -most comical sight. The mode of conveyance has been frequently described -by travellers, so I will not enlarge on the subject. The diligences -remind me of the old French _malle poste_, only the gearing is all hide -instead of rope, and they are drawn by six horses, all mounted by peons, -with very long traces, each horse seemingly independent of the others. -The poor brutes, mostly with sore backs, are first driven into a corral -close to the diligence station, where they are lassoed one by one, a -halter thrown over their necks, and then taken to be saddled. The -diligence station is a very busy place at this time, several starting at -the same time for Cordova and other distant places; there are also -private carriages, and all goes to show how extensive the passenger -traffic will be when the line is open to Cordova. The time occupied in -this latter part of the route is so long that a large supply of vehicles -is required, as well as horses, but the latter may be had almost for the -catching; at all events their cost is very trifling. After seeing the -start, I went over the railway station works, and found evident signs of -considerable traffic, even with an unfinished line. A large space of -ground adjoining the station was filled with bullock waggons, some -discharging cargo into railway waggons, while carts conveyed merchandise -brought up by train from Rosario to other bullock waggons at a short -distance, as there was no space for them about the station, where a -large commodious brick warehouse has been built and works on a large -scale are in course of erection, which will greatly facilitate the -traffic now carried on. In fact, all was bustle and traffic under -difficulties. Amongst the produce brought down was wool in bales, dry -hides, wheat, large bars of copper, fruit, and other articles, not even -omitting fowls in large coops, which had been brought all the way from -Cordova. - -The day was very fine and sunny, and after breakfast I accompanied Mr. -Lloyd on horseback to visit a large forest and lake two or three leagues -distant from the station. Here the wood used for locomotives is cut. It -is found to answer better than coal, and is of course much cheaper. We -passed over the newly laid rails and earthworks intended for a -continuation of the line, along which piles of cut wood, extending at -least a quarter of a mile, were laid, as well as a large quantity of -wooden sleepers of excellent quality, to be used, I believe, between -this and Cordova. We then struck across the campo to the forest, soon -after entering which we came upon one of the most picturesque lakes I -remember to have seen. We rode along the margin, which is chiefly sand, -seeing numbers of wild fowl and black-necked swans. The water was -beautifully clear. There are numbers of otters here, and at the upper -end are immense rushes, which are gathered for roofing the ranchos built -for the company's peons. We then struck into the forest again, and with -some difficulty worked our way through it, the lining of my coat being -torn off, as I was hardly got up for such an expedition. The forest is -partly the property of the railway and of one of the religious -establishments at Cordova, and it is capable of supplying sleepers to -make the line to that city, as well as to supply fuel for the -locomotives for years to come. The railway has quite a little colony -here cutting wood, which is conveyed to a small steam saw mill on the -line, and dealt with most expeditiously there. - -On our way home we visited the company's farm, where the plough was at -work, turning up a rich loamy soil, and next year it is expected a good -crop of wheat will be taken, besides potatoes, Indian corn, grass for -the horses, &c. In short, it will soon become a very productive farm, -being also completely fenced in so as to keep out cattle. The plough was -being driven by a young Somersetshire man, who evidently understood his -work. - -At length we finished our tour of inspection of about twenty miles very -much pleased and gratified with what I had seen, and much impressed with -the important future that awaits the landed property of the company, in -addition to the line becoming a great main trunk one across this part of -South America. Seeing is believing, and if shareholders who are -sceptical as to the future could take a trip out here to satisfy -themselves, they would be quite re-assured on this point. Many doubts -have been thrown upon the enterprise, which I have never entertained, -from my previous knowledge of the country, and my confidence is much -increased by a personal inspection of the line itself and the traffic -which evidently exists ready to come on the metals when proper provision -is made for it. The company are about laying down the telegraph wires, -which will be a great advantage and prevent accidents, besides -establishing a valuable means of communication and saving much time. -Indeed, no line can be efficient without it. I return to Rosario -to-morrow, having only a few days to spare before embarking for England; -otherwise I should have gone on to Cordova and spent some time in this -interesting region, whose only want is population to render it one of -the most productive of the globe. - -When I made a hasty visit to Rosario in 1853 I formed a very strong -opinion of its future importance from the position it occupied in -connection with the river navigation and the traffic of the Western -provinces; but the establishment of the Central Argentine Railway has -immensely added to the other advantages of Rosario, and accounts for the -great increase that has recently taken place in building and population. -Thus far, however, the benefit is in a great measure prospective, the -railway being still incomplete. Nevertheless, there can be little doubt -that the sanguine views of speculators on the future will be realised so -soon as the line is finished. - -It is only in traversing the streets that one becomes aware of the great -extent of the town, which is built in squares after the usual manner in -this country. Several commercial establishments, some banks, and many -really good shops now exist, and there is difficulty, I am informed, in -finding house room for the numerous settlers in the town. I was -surprised to find so large a number of cafés crowded at night by all -classes, and there is also a little theatre, where, in the absence of -regular performances, masked balls are frequently held. These are not of -the most edifying description, but the people will amuse themselves in -some way, and better this than political conspiracies, of which Rosario -has often been the scene. - -As I have before said the port presents quite a busy appearance; but -there are no facilities in the way of wharves and landing places, which -would be a vast convenience to traffic, as everything has now to be done -by boats. Some gas works are in course of erection, on the river side, -but owing to bad foundations or want of care the chimney fell down and -only the skeleton walls appear. It will be a great blessing to the town -and suburbs when they are lighted with gas, as on dark nights -perambulation is difficult even with the aid of the miserable oil lamps -at present in use. There is an American Missionary Chapel near the -railway station, and recently the nucleus of an English Protestant -Congregation has been formed under the auspices of the Rev. Mr. Combe, -appointed by the South American Missionary Society. Service is just now -performed in a room, but efforts are being made to build a chapel, as -the number of English residents continues to increase. Mr. Combe also -holds service at Frayle Muerto, where some sixty Englishmen reside on -farms within a few leagues of each other. - -I had occasion to visit the Protestant burial ground at Rosario to -attend the funeral of a young Englishman who died under melancholy -circumstances, and was sorry to notice that it presented a very forlorn -aspect and was situated in a very inconvenient locality. Many interments -took place here during the cholera, which was very fatal to foreigners -as well as to the natives, who were decimated, and the works of the -railway were also retarded by this terrible scourge. - -Before closing my notice of the railway, I may add that I had an -opportunity, through the kindness of Mr. Woods, the company's engineer, -of inspecting the plans of the new railway station, and of going over -the ground, which will be enclosed to the extent of 3,200 feet in -length, with a fine river frontage on the Parana, where there is a depth -of 18 to 20 feet of water close alongside. This will be a great facility -in dealing with the river traffic. As regards the materials for the use -of the line, they have all been landed on their own wharf and drawn up -an incline, as the bank on which the station stands is at a considerable -elevation above the river. Eventually, I believe, it is the intention of -the company to facilitate both their passenger and goods traffic by -means of landing wharves, which would be a great saving of expense and -time. One thing is very certain, that the Rosario station will be the -finest and most complete in South America. - - - - - THE WESTERN RAILWAY OF BUENOS AYRES. - - -I had a very pleasant excursion over the Western Railway as far as -Mercedes, in company with some friends. Mr. Emilio Castro, Government -Superintendent of the railways in the province of Buenos Ayres, to the -Government of which this line belongs, accompanied us, and he kindly -provided a very luxurious saloon carriage for the occasion. We left the -Parque station at 8 a.m., going over some curves of a formidable nature, -and along streets until we came to the company's goods station and -workshops. The latter are on a very extensive scale. After this we got -fairly on the main line, which is single, except at certain stations -where the trains cross each other. How any engineer could have been bold -enough to construct such curves, or the Government could allow -locomotives to run through the streets, it is difficult to conceive, as -there must always be much risk both to the train and to passengers. -There are also some heavy gradients before the goods station is reached, -which increases the danger, but people seem to have become familiarised -with it. - -For the first twelve miles to Flores station the country presents a -succession of quintas, or country houses, many large and picturesque, -and Flores itself is quite a large and extensive town, though merely a -suburb of Buenos Ayres. The town is called San Jose de Flores, and near -it is a large Anglo-Argentine school, where the train stops. Flores -station is a very good one, capable of being doubled, with a peculiar -pattern of light ornamental roofing inside. In the summer season the -traffic to and from Flores is very considerable, and there is also a -large resident population. After leaving Flores, we got more into the -open campo, with plenty of cattle, sheep, and horses about, and numerous -farm buildings, until we reached Floreste station, close to which is a -large fanciful looking building, originally intended, I believe, for a -hotel, but it does not appear to have been successful as a speculation. -San Martin is an important station, diligences and carriages being in -attendance to convey people to the neighbouring villages of San Custo, -Santa Lucia, and San Martin, one of which was called Rozas' Saladero, -from the number of victims he is said to have sacrificed there at a -prison established for his political enemies. Near this station are some -fine, handsome quintas, belonging to the Madero family, the country -being well wooded, with many farms, and the same features are observable -as far as the Moron station, near which the battle of Caceres was -fought, which decided the fate of Rozas. There is a theatre close to -this station, and Moron is quite a large town, having grown up under the -influence of the railway. A public road runs in proximity to the line -for a distance of some fifteen miles, which is very objectionable, and -the rails might just as well have been laid a few squares apart from it. -After passing Moron we got more into the open campo, with large flocks -of sheep, droves of cattle, and horses feeding all around, until we -reached the ancient Spanish town of Merlo, which has a church, with a -little steeple very like that of a village church at home. There is a -nice looking two-storied house there, built by Mr. Boyd, planted with -trees, showing they will grow well enough if people will take the -trouble to plant them, and I understand Mr. Boyd was the first to -introduce the gum tree, which now flourishes in many gardens in the -neighbourhood. A branch line is shortly to be constructed from this -place to Lobos, some forty miles south-west, through, I am told, a very -rich part of the province, and from which district a large traffic is -expected. A river, called Las Conchas, runs near Merlo, crossed by an -iron bridge, the first I have seen on the line, there being only open -culverts where the line crosses streams or watercourses. The next -station we came to was Moreno, a new town built since the opening of the -line. Midway between Moreno and Lujan is a small station called General -Rodriguez. Lujan is one of the oldest towns in the province, a river of -that name running past it to the Parana, joining the little stream of -Tigre, the terminus of the Northern Railway, whence passenger steamers -go up to Rosario. There is a large station and warehouse at Lujan, where -a quantity of wheat was being loaded into carts, to be ground in a mill -called the “Mill of the Virgins,” a name which I conclude arises from an -anecdote recorded as to the formation of the town. A travelling -expedition, it would seem, while conveying an image of the Virgin, came -to a standstill here, nor could the animals be made to proceed until the -image was left on the spot. So it remained, and to this day it is a -place of great religious festivities; and express trains are run from -Buenos Ayres on these occasions. Whatever may be the real facts of the -case, the Lujan Mills grind good flour. The wheat is grown in Chivilcoy, -the present terminus of the Western line. It is small but hard. It was -to Lujan that General Beresford sent a detachment in 1807, when the -first attack was made on Buenos Ayres, arising out of the war with -Spain, and which was subsequently renewed under such disastrous -circumstances by General Whitelock. I merely make this allusion to show -that at that time it was a town of some importance. The little station -of Oliveres comes next, but is yet only in course of erection, in the -midst of an immense open campo, with large flocks of sheep and plenty of -cattle to be seen in all directions. A fine stream of water crosses this -part of the campo. The thistles, about which we hear so much, abound in -most parts of the campo, but the dry season has kept them down, and they -do not rise much above the surface, nor do they appear to prevent the -growth of grass suitable for sheep and cattle. No donkeys are seen in -this country to luxuriate on the abundance of thistles, and very few -mules, horses being generally used and very badly treated. Their dead -carcasses are frequently encountered, as when “used-up,” they are turned -adrift to die in the campo. A few miles further brought us to Mercedes, -a town of some 12,000 inhabitants, the terminus of the railway before it -was lately opened to Chivilcoy, an extension of forty miles, making a -total distance of 100 miles now open, and the number of stations denotes -the amount of traffic carried on by this railway, for which it has a -stock of 420 wagons and 20 locomotives, besides passenger cars, chiefly -the large American description. - -The Western Railway was originally a small passenger line to San Jose de -Flores, but was afterwards continued and opened by sections, the point -for goods traffic only commencing at the great open square called the -11th of September, where the goods traffic in bullock carts has always -been carried on. A large number of bullock carts still find their way to -that market. - -We remained at Mercedes to enjoy an excellent lunch provided for us by -the station master, who resides there with his family, as going on to -Chivilcoy would have entailed the loss of another day, and having to -sleep there with probably limited accommodation. The station at Mercedes -is a very fine one, with iron pillars and a corrugated roof, brought -from England; also a large roadside shed for the locomotives, workshops, -&c. The large area of ground occupied by the station must be with a view -to future requirements. Omnibuses and a diligence were waiting to convey -passengers to the town, which is near the station, and to distant -places. We did not go into the town, as it looked rather dusty and our -time was limited, having to return by a special train at 1.30. - -We rode some distance back on the engine, making twenty-one miles in -thirty-five minutes over part of the campo, and reached the Parque -station at Buenos Ayres about five o'clock, or three and half hours for -a distance of about sixty miles; but we had to wait at two stations for -the up train to cross, besides calling at most of the other stations, -all of which involved a good deal of delay. The engines have to water -frequently, and there was a scarcity of coal, so they were obliged to -burn slack, mixed with cinders, causing some difficulty in keeping up -steam. It must be admitted that the Government have shown real energy -and determination in prosecuting this railway, which is of great benefit -to the Province, and I believe well managed, yielding a good return for -the capital invested. The rails used on this line are the Barlow, and -they are in very excellent condition after being down several years. The -line from Mercedes to Chivilcoy is laid with Griffin's rails, which I -understand are not so rigid as the Barlow. There is no wood suitable for -sleepers in this part of the country. - -It is intended to carry on the line to the north end of Buenos Ayres, -and to build a wharf out to the river, thus enabling the company to land -and ship goods without passing through the city, which will be a great -convenience and save expense, besides the advantage of opening up -communications with the other railways by such a branch line. Eventually -there is to be a Central Station on the beach for all the railways, so -that goods and passengers can be conveyed from one to the other. As -already observed, a branch is to be made from the Merlo station to the -town of Lobos, and no doubt it will be carried further in that -direction, so as to develop the resources of the country. All this will -require time, and a large outlay of money, for which the Government is -not prepared now, but it is sure to be accomplished later on, with many -more urgent improvements required in this large and growing city. - -We had a very fine day for our excursion, and enjoyed it much, thanks to -the kindness of Mr. Emilio Castro, who made ample provision for creature -comforts, and was exceedingly attentive. Mr. Allen, the engineer for the -line, was also of the party, and gave us much valuable information. He -has been many years out here, and with his brother, has worked his way -to an important and responsible position. - -In the Appendix will be found a very interesting description of the -workshops of the Western Railway, which we extract from the columns of -the Buenos Ayres _Standard_, an influential paper extensively circulated -in the River Plate. - - - - - BUENOS AYRES.—SECOND NOTICE. - - -The more I look over this great city the more I am struck with its -increase, as well as the luxury by which it has been attended, evinced -in the style of building and in the large private establishments, some -of which are really on a princely scale. - -Speaking of public buildings, I do not much admire the opera house, -called the Colon—it is badly formed and the decorations are too heavy. -The gas-lights are ugly, being plain jets instead of small gas -chandeliers. They give a very common-place look to the whole. The tiers -of boxes look too much like _boxes_, and ought to be light and open, -suited to the country. The entrances and corridors are also very rough -and nearly as bad as the unfinished theatre at San Paulo, though the -design of the latter is infinitely superior. On the other hand, the -secondary theatres are cheerful little places, and the new Music Hall, -built by private subscription, is a model for lightness and elegance. I -attended an amateur concert there, and was much pleased; some fifty -ladies and gentlemen forming the vocal strength, aided by a large -instrumental orchestra. It was a sight not often seen at home, where _la -mauvaise honte_ would prevent so agreeable a gathering. The large hall -was quite filled and the programme gone through most systematically. In -alluding to this building, I may remark that it is precisely of the same -dimensions as the new River Plate Bank, being by the same architect. -This Bank occupies a large corner area of one of the most central -streets in the city, and can vie in architectural effect with many of -the new buildings in Lombard-street, with the advantage of being much -better seen. - -The churches have often been described, and the cathedral is now a -finished, handsome building, very well kept up both externally and -internally, and religious observances and masses are very frequent. The -Clubs of Buenos Ayres hold a conspicuous place in connection with -politics, and they occasionally afford opportunities for beauty and -fashion to meet at the balls held in them. The Progreso occupies the -first rank, the La Plata the second, and latterly a Club called Del -Parque has been established. I was up the country when the Progreso ball -was held, and missed the invitation, as well as that for the Temple, but -attended the ball of the La Plata, where 500 or 600 ladies and gentlemen -were collected; a very gay and cheerful meeting, where all appeared to -feel at home and enjoy themselves. South American society has the charm -of being free from the stiffness and formality which exists in -aristocratic society at home. The ladies, however, add great elegance of -dress to their personal graces, which are very considerable, and they -dance with great ease. With reference to the female population of Buenos -Ayres, the _fêtes_ held on the anniversary of Independence (25th of May) -present an excellent opportunity for seeing them to advantage out of -doors. The weather was fine, and the Plaza Victoria, as well as the -leading streets, was filled with well dressed ladies, particularly at -night to see the fireworks. The ladies go about very freely, those who -keep carriages, or can afford to hire them, generally driving a short -way out of town when they are not visiting their friends. Society in -Buenos Ayres is decidedly of the free and easy, friendly style, and -characterised by much hospitality. The democratic element in the -constitution naturally stirs up a good deal of political feeling, but I -do not find this to affect the private relations of life so much as -might be expected. Party spirit runs high, and the “young Republicans” -especially are very bitter towards those who differ from them; but of -late years political animosity has not been stained in the Argentine -Confederation with crimes such as those which have prevailed at Monte -Video. The continuance of the Paraguayan war and the Alliance with -Brazil have lately been the great bone of contention, and shows itself -on the eve of the election of a new president, on the result of which -the future peace of the country may more or less depend. - -I looked over the Museum, where many fine antediluvian specimens found -in this country are preserved, together with a variety of curiosities in -natural history, animals, birds, &c, the whole being under the -superintendence of Dr. Burmeister, who is a very superior man, and I -believe remains there more from his love of natural history than for the -remuneration attached to the office. He has travelled much over the -South American Continent. - -Numerous fine hospitals exist in Buenos Ayres, both native and foreign, -and the English one, which I visited in company with Mr. Boyd, chairman -of the committee, and the Rev. Mr. Ford, is a very good establishment, -well deserving of support by the British community and by our own -Government. The hospital was formerly an old quinta, and is beautifully -situated at the east end of the city, overlooking the river, the Boca, -Barracas, and the country round as far as the eye can reach. It has been -greatly enlarged, forming three sides of a square, the fourth comprising -a neat fever ward, run up last year for cholera patients, and it proved -of very great utility. The wards, on both the ground floor and upper -story, are kept very clean, and Dr. Reid, the medical attendant, resides -on the premises, having occupied his position for six years. The -building and ground are the property of the hospital and have much -increased in value, but the difficulty is in meeting the annual -expenses, which can only be done by voluntary subscriptions. What is -required to keep up the establishment properly is a small tonnage rate -on British ships, and inasmuch as sailors derive the chief benefit from -the hospital, I cannot see why this should not be done. The expenses -attendant on such an institution in a foreign country are considerable, -if it is to be kept in a state of efficiency. Formerly there was a -tonnage rate of this kind levied on British shipping, which may have led -to some abuse, and been done away with from some “ignorant impatience of -taxation,” but there is no valid reason why shipping should not -contribute to the support of hospitals, from which, as I have already -observed, it derives the greatest amount of benefit, and without which -sailors would be exposed to great hardships. - -One of the disadvantages of the Spanish system of building their towns -and cities in square blocks is that it creates a sameness in the -streets, and narrows the approaches to them, leaving no scope for great -leading thoroughfares, so that there is a constant turning of corners, -and but for the names being pretty generally posted up it would be -difficult for strangers to find their way. In reply to inquiries as to -any particular house or locality, you are generally told that it is so -many squares off, so that taking the right bearing or departure you can -easily find out what you want. Then the houses are legibly numbered, -which, combined with their plan of municipal taxation, ought to render a -correct census easy, but there seems to be some strong objection to -“numbering the people,” which I cannot account for, and to this day no -one is able to tell you the population of Buenos Ayres with any -certainty; some calculations only giving 100,000, others 150,000, and -even as high as 200,000. I believe the last to be a great exaggeration; -probably the mean of 150,000 is nearest the mark. Again, the extension -of the city by squares leads to the closing up of places for which a -greater space should be left. As an instance, the English burial ground -was quite in the country when first made, but the city is fast -encroaching upon it, and notice has lately been given to have it -removed, against which a strong feeling exists, as the ground was -purchased, and is the property of foreigners; so the only plan to be -adopted, if any alteration is made at all, will be to close the ground -to future interments, the municipality giving a piece of land a mile or -two further out. This, again, has its inconveniences, as the streets -leading to the present burial ground are almost unapproachable in bad -weather, and beyond their limits it would be still more so. I visited -the English burial ground, which is pretty well kept up, but the huge -square family vaults are very unsightly, and will be rendered useless in -case the burial ground is removed to another quarter. - -The great native burial place called Recoleta, adjoining a church of -that name, is full of monuments of all kinds, some on a most elaborate -and costly scale,—little temples, in fact, where the dead are laid on -shelves, visible through glass doors. The cholera visitation compelled -further addition to be made to the ground, which is in a very rough, -disordered state, where medical students would have full scope if they -were at a loss for subjects. - -Altogether the municipal regulations of the city are very defective. An -effort is now being made to obtain an adequate supply of water, and some -works are in course of erection on the shore in the front of the -Recoleta, on the plan of Mr. Coghlan, an engineer, who has been long -resident at Buenos Ayres. The works will supply a number of fountains in -the city, but no project is yet on foot to carry the water into private -houses, which are supplied from their own patios, where there is -generally a well or large tank underground which collects the rain -water. A number of plans are before the Government for draining the -city, one of the most urgent and imperative of wants, and without which -it is impossible to maintain the public health. It is no wonder the -cholera has made such ravages, and every one dreads a revival of it, or -the appearance of some other scourge during the next hot season. These -mysterious visitations are warnings to large populations that they -cannot violate sanitary laws with impunity, and force lethargic -municipal bodies into action. No city could be more easily drained and -sewered than Buenos Ayres, but it requires a large outlay of money, -which the Government can ill afford at present; and I believe the -municipal and provincial taxes are already at their maximum. - -House rent is very high, and with the exception of meat, all the -necessaries are dear. Luxuries are especially high priced. One is -forcibly reminded of our old watchmen by the prevailing practice in -South America of having what they call serenos, who go round calling the -hour, some of them with most sepulchral voices, and they are about as -useful as our “Charlies” were, only they are armed with a sword, and -apt, I believe, at times to resort to it very improperly. In other -respects the system of police appears to be pretty good, and considering -the mixed and heterogenous population, with many bad characters about, -there are less disturbances in Buenos Ayres than I expected, though, as -a matter of course, many complaints are made as to the deficiency of -police regulations. I was about the streets and suburbs of the city at -various hours of the night and never met with the least molestation. - -The city is well lighted with gas, only it is stated that the present -works are inadequate to the supply, and another company is about to be -formed. The charge for gas is extravagant; I am told about 24s. per -thousand feet, and as a matter of course the shares are at a very high -premium. - -One of the most thriving occupations in the city appears to be the hire -of carriages and horses. There are numerous large establishments of this -kind as well as for the building of carriages; the latter as a rule are -handsome and commodious. There are regular stands in the open squares, -and cars are in attendance at the railway stations. For some time I -could not make out what a great clatter of horses coming through the -city about daylight meant; it sounded like a troop of cavalry, but I -afterwards found it was the hired horses going to water at the river; -indeed, horses are almost amphibious here in consequence of doing so -much work in the river carts, and one day I saw an omnibus brought down -on the shore to be washed and cleaned, rather a novel performance. - -River storms are not of common occurrence, but they occasionally take -place with great violence. It had been hot and oppressive before, but it -came on to blow heavily on Sunday night, and next morning the river had -risen some 12 feet, the waves dashing on the beach in a most alarming -manner, and the whole of the low ground between the city and the Boca -was under water, with part of the Boca Railway washed away, as well as a -portion of the Northern line, interrupting, of course, the traffic on -both. It was a curious sight to see the waves dashing through the willow -trees which are planted along the shore, and for a time suspending -washing operations. Many houses on the low ground were invaded, and the -wooden ones built along the Boca, on piles, looked like great bathing -machines. The iron seats placed on the shore beneath the willows were -knocked over and covered with seaweed. The storm lasted two or three -days, during which no communication could be had with vessels either in -the inner or outer roads, and steamers were compelled to run for the -Tigre to land their passengers; also lighters with cargo—the whole -forming a scene of much excitement and putting an entire stop to -business. It delayed the departure of our steamer several days. After -the gale subsided we had some fine sunny days, and the river fell as -rapidly as it had risen. This gale was not what is termed a pampero, -being from the south-east, beating on the shore. A pampero frequently -follows after it from the south-west, or off the shore, causing the -river to fall again. - -The changes of climate here are sudden and said to be unhealthy. During -the two months I was in the river until the occurrence of the gale -nothing could be more delicious than the weather—cool, with bright -sunshine and any amount of exercise agreeable. The nights were -occasionally frosty, with ice in the mornings in some places. Dust -storms are terrible things during the summer, but happily are rare, and -generally the forerunners of a pampero, accompanied by heavy rain, which -refreshes the thirsty soil. Droughts are serious afflictions to the -sheep and cattle, which often perish from their effects. Water is the -great desideratum for the campo, and without it the prospects of the -estanciero are blighted. As I have said before, the Banda Oriental is -less subject to drought, being more undulated and better watered, but -the pampas, or plains of Buenos Ayres, grow a more nutritive grass and -rear finer sheep and cattle. - -During my stay at Buenos Ayres the Provincial Chambers met, as well as -the National Chambers, and I attended a sitting of the latter, where an -unusual excitement prevailed owing to a motion put on the books as to -the retirement of President Mitre from office, and whether or not this -would put an end to the alliance entered into for carrying on the war -with Paraguay. The building is small, exactly like a theatre minus the -stage, and was crowded to excess by strangers, the pit, or lower part -only, being used for the business of the Senate. There was so much -demonstration from the galleries as to promise a stormy meeting, but -when the speeches began the speakers were patiently listened to, with -occasional cheers by their respective supporters, at which the President -rang his bell. Dr. Quintana and others maintained that their views were -correct, and that the retirement of President Mitre would put an end to -the alliance. The Government, represented by Senor Elizalde, Minister -for Foreign Affairs, maintained the contrary, and defended his -colleagues with considerable acumen and ability, the result being that -nothing was got by the motion and things remained in _statu quo_. The -custom is for members to speak sitting upon their benches, which greatly -detracts from their oratory, and must be very inconvenient, as you can -only hear a voice, and are puzzled sometimes to know where it comes -from. On another occasion, when the Senate was in committee with -explanations going on, half-a-dozen members would be addressing or -interrogating the Minister at the same time, which appeared very absurd, -as well as unfair, it being impossible to reply to more than one at a -time, or at all events to collect the observations of half-a-dozen -members speaking in the same breath. Senor Elizalde, however, defended -his position with much coolness and ability, and was assisted by his -colleague, Dr. Costa, Minister for Education, &c. The audience became so -troublesome on another occasion that the Senators decided to meet with -closed doors, having only reporters present, rather a trial to -democratic forbearance, but it did not seem to produce any sensation out -of doors. As in our own Parliament, a great loss of time is caused by -the professional speech makers, and the business of legislation retarded -accordingly, as they only sit in the day in these countries. Whether or -not such an arrangement would suit in St. Stephen's is another matter. -Outside, and apart from public sittings, no doubt a deal of intrigue and -jobbery takes place in South American assemblies, as in other countries, -but I think on the whole their legislation is fair and conducted with -moderation. There is not the same value in “loaves and fishes” to -operate with, nor the same amount of honour and reward to look forward -to as in England; besides, the members of Government out here are very -poorly paid, so they are obliged to look to their professions, mostly as -lawyers, unless they happen to possess private fortunes. Republicanism -is not endowed with more gratitude than Royalty, and deserving men who -have faithfully and zealously served their country are too often left in -the “cold shade,” and forgotten in both cases. The Provincial Assembly -meet in another part of the city, where all the provincial business is -carried on. It was formerly the town residence and head-quarters of -Rozas, from which many a bloody mandate has been issued. The -municipality occupy large premises in the Plaza, attached to the old -Spanish cabildo, or prison, on which the date of 1722 is still to be -seen. - - - - - PROGRESS OF STEAM NAVIGATION ON LA PLATA. - - -If there is one subject more than another on which I am entitled to -express an opinion it is that of steam navigation on the great South -American rivers, and especially as regards the fluvial waters of the La -Plata. In my book, published in 1854, pages 314 to 316, occur the -following remarks:— - - These are sentiments, however, which the reader may naturally think - are not very pertinent to a purpose like the present, and not - exactly in keeping with an occasion expressly connected with the - commercial opening-up of those streams by the instrumentality of - English enterprise, in a form so indicative of progress as steam. - So, too, thought the writer after a moment's rumination of the “cud - of sweet and bitter fancy;” for he reflected that these magnificent - regions, first discovered by Cabot—English, born and bred, though of - Venetian parentage—had stagnated, not under the rule of that “good - olde and famuse man,” but under the rule of those in whose service - he had found out a river which might, indeed, have proved worthy of - the name the avaricious Spaniards had bestowed upon it—La Plata, the - River of Silver—had they been imbued with a particle of the spirit - which has converted “icy Labrador,” the first territory discovered - by the same glorious adventurer, into a comparatively industrial - paradise. I augured, I hope with no unjustifiable audacity, that now - the descendants of Cabot and of his companions had been brought into - direct relationship with the people of the Parana, something would - be done to render that “Mississippi of the South” not altogether - unworthy of some slight social and political comparison with the - Northern “Father of Waters” before many generations should roll by; - and I deemed it a not altogether impossible contingency that the - younger members of our crew might live to cast anchor in certain - riverine ports hereabouts, amid a forest of masts and funnels - belonging to all the maritime states in the world, not one of which - countries but may find produce of some kind or other profitably - suitable to its markets on these fertile shores. - -I will leave it to my readers, acquainted with what is going on at the -present time, to say whether my views were too sanguine. It may be said -that the war in Paraguay has hastened the development of steam -navigation up the rivers, which is true enough, but at the same time I -am satisfied that without this war there would have been steady -progress, particularly had the policy of the despotic ruler of Paraguay -been in a pacific direction, encouraging, instead of throwing every -difficulty in the way of free transit to the country lying beyond -Paraguay, and into the interior of Matto Grosso. The exigences of a war -of the nature carried on for the last three years, where the troops, -ammunition, and supplies of all kinds had to be sent forward by steam, -would naturally create active employment for steamers, and it has tended -to familiarise navigators with every nook and corner, sand bank, or -other impediment that may have existed unknown to any of them. The war -at an end, steamers will be organised to run to the different towns and -stations, in response to the requirements of traffic, as well as to -facilitate postal communications, so much needed in those countries; and -Rosario, being the terminus of the great Central Railway, must of -necessity become the rendezvous of all river steamers ascending the -Parana, the Uruguay having already a pretty good organisation in this -respect. In a country so widespread, and so dependent on internal -communication by rivers, steam is now a primary necessity, and therefore -it may fairly be assumed that this will be one of the first objects of -the Government, as well as of the Central Argentine Railway Company; the -latter to facilitate traffic to and from their line, and to regulate the -departure of their trains, a matter of much moment to travellers. It may -in truth be said that steam navigation on the waters of La Plata and its -affluents is only in its infancy, dating from the commencement of the -Paraguayan war. One of the great requirements of civilised life is rapid -intercourse, not only for persons, but for correspondence, and the task -of arranging the latter is one that must be strongly pressed on the -Government by commercial bodies, who are so much interested in the -question. Brazil sets an example in this respect that other Governments -ought to follow. In process of time telegraphic wires will doubtless be -added to steam facilities, and probably be carried across the Andes to -join the West Coast line to Panama, in connection with the great -Atlantic cable to England. - -When I remember the sensation created by the little “Argentina,” and her -trip to Rosario in 1853, I must say the progress of events has indeed -been rapid. To this day the “Argentina” is remembered at Buenos Ayres -and Monte Video, and her subsequent loss was regarded as a serious -calamity. - -I subjoin in the Appendix some particulars showing the increase of steam -tonnage in these waters, which will be interesting to those who -contemplate visiting the regions of the La Plata. - -In connection with the up-river steam traffic, the Northern Railway to -the Tigre is a great facility, as passengers can walk on board the -steamers without encountering the often disagreeable boating at Buenos -Ayres, and the passage through what is called the Capitan is very -pleasant, but if the railway was extended a few hundred yards further, -to the bank of the River Lujan, it would be far more convenient as large -sized steamers would then resort there, as also vessels with cargo for -Buenos Ayres to be sent on by rail. The Tigre is so small and so shallow -that a few steamers block it up, but the Lujan is wide and deep, and it -might be made a valuable adjunct to the port of Buenos Ayres, at present -suffering so much for want of accommodation. In my general report on the -railways this subject will be again alluded to. - - - - - RAILWAYS IN THE RIVER PLATE. - - -There are two classes of railways in the Argentine Confederation, -inaugurated by Provincial and the National Governments respectively. I -will begin with the Province of Buenos Ayres, as the railroad system has -there acquired the greatest development. The first line established was -the Western, which has now reached the town of Chivilcoy, a distance of -100 miles from the city, and it is proposed to effect a further -extension to the frontier fort of Melincue. I need not repeat here the -details already given in reference to this enterprise. - -Next in importance comes the Great Southern Railway, seventy-one miles -in length, which was made by an English Company, under a Government -guarantee of 7 per cent. on £700,000, but the capital actually raised -was £750,000, the contractors taking £50,000 in unguaranteed stock on -certain conditions as to their participation in dividend. The -expenditure has been further increased to nearly £800,000, owing to -additional disbursements for goods stations and for increased rolling -stock. The line was opened throughout in Dec. 1865, and the traffic has -gone on steadily augmenting with improved receipts, the result of the -first year showing a net profit of nearly three per cent.; the second -year a fraction over five per cent.; and the present year promises fair -to reach the seven per cent. guaranteed by the Government, when it will -be self-sustaining and free of all the drawbacks necessarily incidental -to a condition of dependence on State aid. This enterprise has a -prosperous future before it. The great question which remains to be -decided has relation to an extension of the line further south, or in a -south-westerly direction, so as to intercept the large amount of traffic -which still comes forward by the ordinary bullock carts. One -disadvantage of the Southern Railway consists in its chief station at -the Plaza Constitucion being so far from the central points of the city, -which are only partially reached by a tramway, but this ought to be -extended, and even then it will be difficult to meet the requirements of -passenger traffic. The following particulars are taken from a private -letter sent home after a very pleasant trip over the line, accompanied -by the Local Committee and Manager:— - - My first step after arrival here was to visit all the Railway - Stations, as they are generally a pretty good index of what is - behind them, and I found the Great Southern far in advance of all - the others as regards provision for the traffic it has to carry on. - The money which has been spent in shed accommodation was only an - absolute necessity, and is of that practical character which quite - meets the case. The single-roofed shed into which the wool is - discharged from the railway trucks on one side, and taken out from - the other, is most convenient, and to look at the sheds, which are - divided into compartments, and all numbered, you might fancy - yourself at one of the warehouses of the London Docks, with which - you are familiar. The booking offices, refreshment rooms, &c., - occupy the centre of the station, with the platform in front for - passengers; the warehouses occupying the two wings. There is also a - goods receiving shed, with stabling for horses used on the tramway. - The only thing I see in the distance is that more station room will - be required. Leaving the station by a double line of rails, you soon - cross the handsome bridge over the Riachuelo and arrive at Barracas - station, situated near the centre of a large population, and - connected with the Boca, where a large portion of the business of - the port of Buenos Ayres is carried on, the place being studded with - saladeros and large warehouses, where the produce of the country is - deposited, a great drawback being the abominable stench arising from - dead carcasses and offal strewed about, and nests of piggeries which - are allowed to locate spite of all municipal regulations to the - contrary. After leaving Barracas the line strikes at once into the - campo, or open country, the first ten or fifteen miles being studded - with quintas or farms, and establishments of one kind or other, when - you reach the great plains covered with sheep, cattle, and horses, - and at this time the pastures look green and healthy, though at the - same time they could do with rain. The line is nearly a dead level - with few curves, the stations well built and commodious, and of a - very durable nature, easily added to if required; in fact, I do not - see how a railway in this country could be better adapted for its - work; the rails, permanent way, as well as the rolling stock, all - appear to be in good order. Although the line may be said to - traverse a sea of land, and does not pass close to any town of - importance until it reaches Chascomus, there were many more - estancias (farms) in the distance than I expected to find. We saw - Mr. Glew and Mr. Donsellear (after whom two stations are called) in - _propria persona_. The Somborambon bridge, crossing a river of that - name, is a fine work, and at the Chascomus station are evident signs - of considerable traffic, with machinery for hoisting the bullock - carts on to the railway trucks after their wheels are taken off, and - the cart with its contents (wheels included,) brought into Buenos - Ayres. Chascomus itself is a large straggling town, situated close - to a picturesque lake, on the banks of which Mr. Crawford (agent for - Messrs. Peto and Betts during the construction of the line) built - himself a large comfortable house, now converted into an hotel, at - which we enjoyed a very good dinner. During the career of Rozas - Chascomus was a military station, and many people from the - neighbouring districts came to spend some months of the year at the - town, but its glory in this way has departed, and it does not look - like a very go-a-head place at present. On the whole I returned much - impressed with the soundness of the undertaking and the favourable - prospect before it. - -The Northern Railway, originally called the San Fernando, has been very -unfortunate from its birth, arising in a great measure from its being -made on a strip of land adjoining the river, where it was subject to -inundations in consequence of sea storms. Had it been carried over the -bank, within a few hundred yards to the left, it would have been -entirely out of the reach of such casualties, an instance of which -occurred a few days before I left Buenos Ayres, when a portion of the -earthworks was again washed away. Soon after my arrival out I made a -trip over the line, accompanied by Mr. Crabtree, the new manager, Mr. -Ford, locomotive superintendent and engineer, Mr. Santa Maria, -consulting local director, and Mr. Horrocks, the traffic manager. The -station at the Retiro is a plain, modest building, which answers the -purpose well enough, though rather open and exposed. The locomotives and -carriages are in limited number, but sufficient apparently for existing -wants, as the large American carriages hold many passengers. A tramway -from the most central point in the city, passing along the beach, -carries the passengers to and from the station in a much more convenient -manner than to any of the other railways, and there can be little doubt -that if the line could be rendered safe from the encroachments of the -river on the occasion of great storms, fortunately “few and far -between,” it would be a very prosperous enterprise, as it affords -accommodation for the most populous suburb of the city. It also touches -a branch of the river where a large portion of the steam traffic is -likely to be concentrated. I found the rails in tolerable order, and -altogether more life in the concern than I had expected, considering the -drawbacks, financial and otherwise, with which it has had to contend. -The first station is Palermo, the old paradise of Rozas, but which is -now allowed to go to ruin and decay, the beach from the Retiro to -Palermo being almost entirely monopolised by what has been termed “an -army of washerwomen.” The next station is Belgrano, where Mr. Matti, the -great steamboat agent, has a most fantastic quinta, glittering in green -and yellow colours, but of what style of architecture it would be -difficult to determine; nevertheless it is a pretty place, and evidently -no expense is spared to keep it in order. It is, however, too close to -the railway. Directly opposite is the hotel of Mr. Watson, where I can -testify to a first rate dinner being provided for those who want a -little relief from the closeness and monotony of the city. After -Belgrano comes San Isidro, near which are also many handsome quintas. -There are two or three other stations before arriving at San Fernando, -about which there is a large, scattered population. Here a new branch is -being made to the Parana, by a small company of which Mr. Hopkins is the -head; the intention being to build a new wharf and some warehouses -there; but I question whether the enterprise will ever arrive at -maturity, as the most natural point for the construction of such works -is undoubtedly the mouth of the Rio Tigre, on the Lujan River, as I have -previously observed. At the latter place we found some dozen steamers, -chiefly of large size, lying moored alongside the banks where there is -deep water. At the Tigre station is a good restaurant, kept by a -Frenchman, who provided us with a comfortable breakfast, and after two -or three hours spent in a boat looking about the river, and rambling -over the neighbourhood, we returned to Buenos Ayres much pleased with -our trip. - -The Boca Railway is a small line, made to connect the city with the -important districts of the Boca and Barracas. It was laid on the beach, -and is not unfrequently partially washed away by the river storms. The -Boca is quite a little port on the banks of the Riachuelo, where -lighters discharge and load, and where small craft are also built. -Amongst other establishments there is that of the Messrs. Casares, the -largest lightermen in the place, which is at all times very busy and -generally crowded. A branch of the railway goes on towards Barracas, -where an old wooden bridge crosses the stream, rendered exceedingly -filthy by the refuse of the saladeros finding its way into the water. -The effluvia arising from this cause are of a very offensive nature. -Attempts, however, are being made to cleanse and deepen this valuable -river, but the slow pace at which improvements are carried on here will -probably postpone the event to a future generation. Most of the houses -about the Boca are of wood, and are built on piles to avoid danger from -floods, but there are also many large stone edifices in which produce is -stored. A few days before I left a river storm laid nearly the whole -locality under water, destroying a portion of the railway, and of course -stopping the traffic. The replacing of the rails is not, I understand, a -very formidable undertaking. The whole line, which is only three or four -miles in length, including the branch to Barracas, ought to have been -built on piles or led through an iron viaduct, so as to be out of the -reach of the floods; and under existing circumstances, not to speak of -the cost of repairing the permanent way, the traffic is interrupted at -the very time it would be of the greatest utility. The original plan, -and that for which the concession was obtained, was to connect the Boca -and Barracas with the city, running a branch to Ensenada, where it was -proposed to form a new port; but this part of the scheme is still in -embryo. Where the line is really of utility and would carry a large -traffic is from the Custom-house to the Boca, and across the bridge -higher up to Barracas, where the Government are making a large swing -iron bridge to replace the old dilapidated wooden one now in use. An -iron viaduct is about being laid to connect the Boca Railway with the -Custom-house. If properly constructed the Boca Railway would command the -whole traffic of this district, and direct communication might be -established with the Northern and Southern Railways; but a large -additional capital is required before this scheme can be realised. The -bulk of the Boca traffic is carried on by carts, under great -disadvantages and at a heavy expense; and it is a painful sight to see -the poor horses struggling through the mud, or toiling under the lash up -the steep, miserably paved streets which connect the beach with the -warehouses and depôts at the southern end of the city. In fact -everything in the way of locomotion is carried on under great -difficulties, and the detention of shipping in the outer roads is a -serious matter. When the river is low, the beach is covered with carts -galloping backwards and forwards, bringing cargo from the lighters or -taking produce to them—the horses up to their girths in water and -sometimes swimming. Many of the carts have a hollow bottom made water -tight to prevent damage to the goods; and at times, when there is not -water for boats to the mole, passengers have still to embark or -disembark in carts, as was the case when I last visited Buenos Ayres. -Both this mole and that to the Custom-house, for which the latter is -exclusively used, have been built since that time; but to show the great -want of accommodation which still exists to carry on the trade of the -port, there are upwards of 300 custom-house depôts in different parts of -the city besides the Custom-house itself, and at the north end a large -market is being converted into a depôt; in fact the trade of the port -has entirely outgrown the facilities for its reception, the whole, as at -Monte Video, being in a great state of confusion. - -On the subject of railways generally in the Argentine Confederation -there cannot be a second opinion that it is through their -instrumentality the future development of the country must be looked -for; and it is to the credit of General Mitre that so much has been done -during his presidency, especially the great work of the Central -Argentine Railway, which more than any other measure must tend to link -together the provinces of the Confederation and strengthen their union. -So soon as the line is open to Cordova the communication with the -western provinces will be speedy, and produce will find its way to that -city as a central point, thence to be brought down to Rosario, Buenos -Ayres, or Monte Video, comparatively at great saving of time and -expense. At present the cost of transit absorbs a large part of the -total value, the effect of which has been to discourage any notable -increase of production beyond the necessities of local consumption. The -railway will in addition afford a more easy mode of locomotion, and will -greatly promote intercourse, while emigrants can be at once conveyed to -distant places where their services are required. On every ground, -therefore, the promotion and extension of railways is the first duty of -President Mitre's successor, and it is to be hoped Senor Sarmiento will -not be remiss in this respect. At all events, the way has been paved and -a good example set. The only other railway to notice, and which I had -not an opportunity of seeing, is a small one from Puerto Raiz, on the -Parana, to Galaguay, a distance of about six miles, which was -constructed by Mr. Coghlan for a sum of £20,000, or about £3,380 per -mile. I believe it is very useful and returns a fair percentage on the -outlay. - - - - - EMIGRATION TO BRAZIL. - - -Both the Government and the people of Brazil feel the necessity and the -value of promoting immigration to the fullest extent. Experiments have -been tried, and small colonies of Europeans founded in some of the -southern provinces, all of which have been more or less successful. - -In my account of the Province of San Paulo I have alluded to the -settlement of Germans on the coffee plantations of Senhor Vergueiro, and -to the desire of other large owners of property to follow his example. I -also instanced the case of a little colony of Germans at Juiz de Fora, -in the Province of Rio de Janeiro, which I had an opportunity of seeing, -and there are besides in the same province other colonies on a larger -scale. Various efforts have been made by individuals in other parts of -the Empire to introduce foreign labour. - -Slave labour is of course an impediment to the more general influx of -Europeans, but where lands are set apart and arrangements made for the -location of colonists there is no reason why the latter should not -succeed, and form the nucleus of a large future population. The -assistance and pecuniary co-operation of Government is of course -required to effect any decided progress in this direction; and -considering that every labourer brought into the country contributes to -the national revenue, as well as to national production, the primary -expense of passage money is soon repaid. - -Many of the high table-lands of Brazil are admirably adapted to -agricultural purposes, the climate, owing to elevation, being also -favourable to European settlement. Enormous tracts of such land are at -the disposal of the Executive, but it needs some outlay in order to -prepare the way for emigrants, as they cannot be expected to pioneer as -in the case of the United States, on account of their ignorance of the -language and the difficulty of access from the port of debarkation. - -The time is fast approaching when slavery must cease to exist in Brazil; -and it behoves the Government to anticipate this event by the -introduction of free labour. It is morally certain that the negroes, -even if they settle down under their new condition, will not labour so -constantly as when in a state of servitude. The Government ought, -therefore, I repeat, to adapt itself to the exigences of its position, -and encourage by every means the accession of European agricultural -labourers of a suitable class. Large landowners, whose estates are now -only partially worked, might devote a portion of them for new comers, -and, in connection with the Central and Provincial Governments, attain -the desired end. Financial difficulties, caused by the long war with -Paraguay, may be pleaded as an excuse for neglecting this great -question, but the very drain that has thus taken place of men and money -only renders the case more pressing. I believe the Emperor entertains -the most enlightened and practical views, both as regards doing away -with slave labour and replacing it by the introduction of emigrants; but -the trammels of a war expenditure, and the degree of attention the -struggle demands on the part of the Ministers, prevent their -inauguration of measures which all must see are inevitable, if the -Empire is to prosper as heretofore. - -In our own colonies the Colonial Governments have naturally been the -chief promoters of emigration, from exercising, as they do, full control -over their own revenues and over public lands; but in Brazil the impetus -must first come from the action of the Central Government, which -receives and distributes the provincial revenues after payment of -provincial expenditure. - -In the southern provinces of Brazil the cultivation of coffee and cotton -offers the greatest scope for European labour, and the Province of San -Paulo alone is capable of wonderful development as respects the growth -of these two important articles if only proper means are adopted to -provide augmented manual power. - -The northern provinces present greater difficulties, from the nature of -the climate, which is more adapted to a people like the Chinese than to -Europeans. There is, however, an objection to this industrious race in -consequence of their desire to return home when they have accumulated a -little money. A further introduction of the African race as free -labourers would be very advantageous. Though this might be a great gain -to the negroes themselves, whose lives in their own country are at the -mercy of such wretches as the sable King of Dahomy, philanthropists -object to the removal of Africans from their native soil on any grounds, -entirely ignoring the miserable existence they lead there and the -barbarities to which they are subjected. But let slavery be once -abolished in Brazil, and there could be no objection that I can see to -their settlement in those provinces where their labour would be most -useful, say from the River Amazon down to the Province of Bahia. This, -however, is only a casual remark, and does not come within the scope of -my present inquiry, namely, as to the best mode of introducing European -labour into Brazil. As I have already pointed out to the Government, the -passage money of emigrants must be paid, or advanced, the selection of -them must be carefully attended to, and on reaching Brazil they should -be sent on immediately to their ultimate destination, where suitable -accommodation should also be provided against their arrival. Every -necessary arrangement can easily be made if the Government and landed -proprietors would take some trouble and show their practical earnestness -in the matter. - -There is an Emigrants' Home, or temporary abode in Rio de Janeiro, where -proper attention is paid to them, and an officer (Dr. Galvao) is -especially appointed by Government to look after this department. I -quite intended to have visited this establishment, but was unable to do -so. I had, however, a conversation with Dr. Galvao on the subject of -emigration generally. - - - - - EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE. - - -No country in South America is more favourably placed, or presents a -greater field for European labour than the River Plate, notwithstanding -the drawbacks which have to some extent retarded its progress and -injured its character. It has an advantage over Brazil in the absence of -slavery, and is of a milder climate, though it is very hot during the -summer months, as I experienced when at Monte Video, in January last, at -which time the cholera was at its height. - -A friend, who has resided in Buenos Ayres for two or three years, -chiefly out in the campo, has thus recorded his experience of the -average temperature:— - - 20 Days very cold 45 to 55 deg. Fah. - 182 Days moderate 55 to 75 deg. Fah. - 60 Days warm 75 to 88 deg. Fah. - 45 Days hot 80 to 85 deg. Fah. - 58 Days intensely hot 85 to 105 deg. Fah. - ——— - 365 Days. - -The thermometer, in exposed places, reaches 110 Fah. in the shade, but -such cases are very exceptional. - -He also adds as follows some very useful remarks as to clothing: - - Flannel shirts are best; woollen drawers should also be used - - For working, clothes of such colour as will not show the dust are - best. - - The thickness of the clothes for summer wearing may be very much the - same as would suit in England during hot summer weather; they - should be waterproofed before being made up. - - Indiarubber coats, although very useful in winter, are ruined in hot - weather, and stick together and tear, so as to be useless. - - Good English boots are not to be had, and are therefore very useful. - -As to food he says:— - - Be careful about eating and drinking, especially when newly landed, - and avoid as much as possible unnecessary exposure to the sun. - - Fruit should not be taken in quantities at first. Peaches are said - to be the best and most wholesome. - -I may add from my own experience that where it is intended to frequent -the campo a pair of good riding boots are very necessary, and a rough -pea jacket would be a very good companion in winter. In town cloth -cloaks are much worn, and in the campo chiefly _ponchos_. - -The boundless tracts of open country are in a great measure occupied by -sheep and cattle, and do not require much of the labour of man; but -sheep farming having been carried to a large extent, the price of wool -has much depreciated, and sheep can be bought very cheap. In -consequence, agriculture is now much more attended to and will require -labour. Good wheat can be grown in most of the Argentine Provinces, and -now forms a staple commodity, which may be increased to almost any -extent where railways afford the means of easy transport, and so soon as -there are sufficient labourers to cultivate the soil. Indeed, there is -no reason why wheat, as well as Indian corn, should not be largely -exported, and I believe this will be the case in a very few years. Wheat -crops are liable to injury from drought, but the price obtained for the -product is a very remunerative one, and it is not subject to losses by -depreciation as frequently occurs with sheep and cattle. - -Foreign settlers in distant provinces have of late been much damaged by -Indian raids, to prevent which the Government has done very little, -owing to the drain of soldiers for the war and to internal discord, but -this plague is merely a temporary one, and nothing would tend more to -remove the evil than a large increase of population, of which the -country stands greatly in need. - -Emigration, at present, goes on to a limited extent, but chiefly of the -class suitable for cities and towns, and not for an agricultural or -country life. Several colonies, founded under arrangements with the -Provincial Governments of Santa Fé and Entre Rios, are prospering, and -those in the fine Province of Cordova will also do well when the -National Government is able to repel Indian inroads and protect the -settlers. Many young Englishmen have settled in Cordova during the last -four years, with more or less capital, and have bought land, -particularly near the line of the Central Argentine Railway, naturally -looking to Government for protection, which unhappily has not been -effectively extended. In many cases their stock has been carried off by -the savages, and their prospects seriously injured. They are now turning -their attention to agriculture, and I have every reason to think they -will be successful. - -Numbers of young men have come out to the Plate with little or no -resources, expecting to find employment on sheep farms, and failing -this, have fallen into bad habits, often wandering about the country and -undergoing great hardships and misery. To do any good in such a country -steadiness of character is the most essential quality, nor is it at all -safe to trust to the chapter of accidents. It is only by well organised -arrangements, and great perseverance, that new comers can expect to -overcome the difficulties attending their settlement in a new country, -the very extent of which is a disadvantage until such time as the influx -of population and the formation of communities do away with these -inconveniences. - -The Chilian Government have lately made a contract with a Hamburg house -for sending to the port of Lota Swiss, Tyrolese, and German emigrants, -on a principle that may be adopted with benefit in relation to the River -Plate. The emigrants must be provided with good characters, viséd by the -Chilian Consul at Hamburg, and on their arrival at Lota they are to be -sent on to Arauco by the Government, and placed in possession of their -land, according to the terms of the Chilian law lately published. The -colonists are to be furnished with between-deck passages, and they will -be allowed one ton of measurement for every adult, and half a ton for -each person under 12 years, and they are to be treated on board in -conformity with the Hanover Passenger Act. The Government also agree to -pay 40 dollars (£8) for the passage of each adult, and 20 dollars for -each child under 12 years of age. The contract is to last for four -years, and if the scheme should meet with favour in Germany, the -Government agree to contract for 100 families for the first year, 150 -for the second, 200 for the third, and 300 for the fourth year, with -liberty to the contractors to exceed these numbers to the extent of 25 -per cent. It appears to me questionable whether the contractors can -afford to take emigrants that distance for £8 passage money, but -probably the nature of the land concession is an inducement to families -possessing some means to augment this sum, in which case it becomes a -scheme of assisted passages on terms arranged between the emigrants and -contractors. It is, however, a step in the right direction, which other -Governments will do well to follow. - -At Monte Video there is an Emigrant Office under the management of a -respectable committee, where every information is afforded as to -employment, but there is no Home or Asylum. At Buenos Ayres there is a -miserable building on the ground floor, called an Asylum, where -emigrants are allowed to remain four days. It seems to have been -formerly a large stable, and is indeed more fit for horses than human -beings. It wants both ventilation and cleanliness, the latter at all -events easy to provide, but, considering the vast importance of -emigration to the country, a more appropriate place might be maintained -at very moderate cost. It is not necessary, nor desirable, that -emigrants should on landing find themselves so comfortable as to care -little about removing, but there is a medium between this and the dirty -place open to them at present. Of course the sooner the emigrants are -sent off to the locality where their labour is required the better. - -If ever there was a time when sheep farming ought to offer advantages to -new comers it is the present, when the value of sheep has fallen so low -that land may be stocked for a very small sum as contrasted with former -years, and land itself can be bought or rented at considerably less than -formerly. This has inflicted great loss upon the older residents; indeed -the result has been sometimes so disastrous that sheep farmers here and -there are giving it up altogether, and others putting as much of their -land as possible under tillage. Everything is therefore in favor of new -settlers who may choose to try their fortunes in this particular line, -only they must make up their minds to rough it for a few years, and be -content with a life in the campo. - -The consumption of an article like wool can never be subject to any -lengthened depression, and with railway facilities there will be -increased means for utilising the carcasses of sheep, by boiling down, -or otherwise disposing of them. On the other hand, in the ordinary -course of things, more land will be put under cultivation, and -agriculture as well as sheep farming is destined to play an important -part in the commercial history of the River Plate. - -As I have already remarked, the want of population is the great drawback -under which this country now suffers, and is an impediment to progress -in every way. This can only be remedied by emigration receiving the -direct aid as well as the encouragement of Government. It is not -sufficient that a few stray people find their way up the country, but -centres of population and labour should be formed in the most productive -parts of every province, which would lead to agricultural progress, and -eventually to the formation of new towns and cities. The mere extension -of existing cities will never bring solid wealth to the Argentine -Confederation, nor develop political stability. - - - - - RAILWAYS IN BRAZIL. - - -Unfortunately the promoters of railway enterprises in Brazil, entered -into with British capital, have looked more to the guaranteed interest -offered by the Government upon the money to be expended than to -legitimate sources of traffic, out of which a dividend might be earned. -All the Brazilian Railways, with the exception of the little Mauá, at -Rio de Janeiro, and to which reference is made in my former book, have -been created since 1853, the first in order and time being the Recife, -or Pernambuco, about which there has been so much controversy between -the Company and the Government. Before submitting any comments of my -own, I will quote the following from the report lately issued by the -Minister of Public Works, Senhor Dantas, upon this and the other lines. -The document is official, and therefore worthy of reliance:— - - The annexed gives the length, receipts, and expenses of the railways - in 1867. The receipts and expenses of the S. Paulo Railway include - only nine and a half months:— - - Name. Kilos. Receipts. Expenses. - D. Pedro II 197.4 2,523:796$781 1,117:034$992 - S. Paulo 139.0 1,236:423 702 305:140 286 - Pernambuco 124.9 599:331 445 414:772 537 - Bahia 123.5 263:323 292 517:870 760 - Gantagallo 49.1 709:222 555 365:830 300 - Mauá 17.5 297:595 347 172:297 628 - ————— ————————————— ————————————— - Total 651.6 5,599:693 122 2,892:955 503 - - These figures leave a balance of 2,706:737$610 over the cost of - working. - - - D. PEDRO II. RAILWAY. - - With the Macacos branch the length of this railway is 203 - kilometres, 56.6 kilometres having been added during last year in - its prolongations towards the station of Entre Rios. Failing to come - to an agreement with the Companhia Mineira for the extension to - Porto Novo da Cunha, an offer was made by the Companhia Uniao e - Industria to construct a cart road to that point, the final offer of - this Company being to make it gratuitously if certain favours were - conceded to it. However, its offers were declined, as a cart road - was judged incompatible with the requirements of the railway. Under - these circumstances, as the state of the finances did not permit the - contracting for the extension, orders were issued to give it a - commencement by administration; and at the present time the works of - the first miles are tolerably advanced. - - A proposition to construct and work the fourth section has been - received from capitalists and planters of the district it would - serve, and it is now awaiting solution. - - The competition between the railway and the Uniao e Industria road - being prejudicial to both, the directory of this road has proposed - bases for a compromise as under:—The Uniao e Industria road company - to give up all its traffic between its station of Posse and Rio, - receiving as compensation certain advantages, the principal one - being the duration of its contract for twelve years, and the receipt - of 120 rs. on every arroba transported on the railway between Entre - Rios and Rio, which, it is estimated, would give the company - 324:000$ annually, and transfer traffic of 2,700,000 arrobas, or - 1,000:000$ annually, to the railway. In order to facilitate this - transaction the company proposes to lease the railway for twelve - years and pay a dividend of four per cent. to the Government. It - also proposes to make any extension determined on, that to Porto - Novo to be finished in five years, the Government to furnish the - money, and the company to receive no compensation for its trouble - except what would arise from the 120 reis the arroba upon the - traffic over the line from Entre Rios and Rio. On the completion of - the Porto Novo branch, the company would receive 2,000:000$ out of - the profits over the four per cent. dividend as indemnity for any - loss, rights or advantages secured to it by the contract of October - 29, 1864, and it would then commence the construction of the railway - through the valley of the Parahybano towards the Serra of - Mantiqueira, using for this purpose four-fifths of the net revenue - received from the railway, one-fifth remaining for the company, this - continuing until the end of the twelve years, and the company - binding itself to make, at its own cost, the branch from Juiz de - Fora to the railway station of Uba. If, however, the Government - judge it better to construct a system of macadamised cart roads, - centering at Entre Rios, the company will then pay six per cent. on - the railway, and will construct within four years, twenty leagues of - road to Porto Novo da Cunha, and on to Barra do Pomba, and will, - within six years, macadamise the Serraria road as far as Mar de - Hespanha, the road from the Parahybuna station to Flores, and that - from the Uba station to Juiz de Fora; making also, during the last - six years of the contract, the road to Barbacena, following as much - as possible the trace drawn for a railway, and prolonging it to S. - Joao de El Rei. Besides, the company will settle 2,000 families of - colonists along the road from Uba to Juiz de Fora, and on that - between Juiz de Fora, Barbacena, and S. Joao de El Rei. The company - also binds itself to keep in order all the cart roads in - construction, transporting freight and passengers on them at the - rates provided for the Uniao e Industria road; and, in addition, to - deliver up to the Government, at the end of the twelve years, the - railway and roads in good condition. - - Three proposals have been made for the prolonging of the railway to - the waterside; that of the engineers, Senhors Bulhoes and Passos, - proposes to bring the line to the Praia da Gambôa, and there - construct large warehouses and furnish all facilities for shipping - and landing goods; that of Senhor F. B. Jansen Lima and others - proposes to pass by a tunnel through the Livramento Hill to the - Praia da Saude; that of Senhor Feliciano José Henrique proposes to - connect the Santa Anna station with the principal parts of the city - wherein goods are now stored. - - The capital employed in the railway having been 27,525:957$816 upon - the 31st of December last, its net income of 1,422:434$402 during - the last year represents a dividend of 5.16 per cent. upon its cost, - which percentage should, when the Entre Rios traffic assumes a - normal condition, rise to six per cent. in view of the greater - number of stations now open, and if the Uniao e Industria freights - pass over the line there can be no doubt that the percentage will - exceed seven per cent. per annum. - - The following table shows the progress of the railway since its - commencement. The Macacos branch is excluded, it not existing in the - first years:— - - Year. Working. Revenue. Per Cent. - 1859 606:870$492 720:900$443 84.18 - 1860 611:402 672 920:765 784 66.40 - 1861 688:506 150 1,073:731 050 64.12 - 1862 800:934 211 964:996 982 82.99 - 1863 849:421 671 969:621 542 87.60 - 1864 964:199 300 1,211:615 205 79.57 - 1865 1,088:133 594 1,756:148 520 61.96 - 1866 834:057 521 1,848:783 351 45.11 - 1867 1,082:283 327 2,506:836 961 43.17 - Net revenue of 1867 1,422:434$402 - - The stations opened during 1867 were:—Uba on May 5, Parahyba do Sul - on August 11, Entre Rios on October 13. - - - BAHIA RAILWAY. - - The shareholders of this railway continue to suffer the consequences - produced by the excess of expenses over receipts. Last year's - balance showed an increase of 12:867$764 in receipts, and of - 24:383$445 in expenses, giving a deficit of 218:630$092, more by - 11:515$681 than the preceding year's. - - This result is no doubt disheartening, but meantime I await the - report of the commission I authorised the President of the province - to appoint, whose investigations must have revealed the latent - causes of this state of things, in order to take such measures as - may be recommended for the purpose of placing the enterprise on the - footing reclaimed by its and the public treasury's interests. - - The construction of the feeding roads judged necessary for the - improvement of the traffic could not be carried on rapidly owing to - the financial condition of the province. - - The register of cattle established at Alagoinhas is estimated to - give the railway a further traffic of 24,000 bullocks and to augment - the receipts by 40:000$. - - In my opinion, however, the only measure which can save the capital - employed in the railway is its prolongation, but unfortunately those - causes subsist which counselled me to postpone surveys for the - prolonging of this and the other railways, with the exception of the - Dom Pedro II. line, whose existing conditions are different. - - The debt of the Province of Bahia to the National Treasury for - advances on account of the Two per Cent Guarantee was estimated at - 1,516:862$220 up to the first half of last year, and at present must - be more than 2,000:000$. - - - PERNAMBUCO RAILWAY. - -Notwithstanding the elements of prosperity which the company already -counts on, and those which the future reserves for it, its financial -position is not at present satisfactory, nor have its shares been able -to obtain in London quotations worthy of the destinies awaiting it. To -such result that false position has contributed, besides other things, -in which the company has been placed by the various operations through -which the company sought to obtain its capital. As you know, part of -this capital enjoys the guarantee of interest, another part was obtained -by a loan effected by the Imperial Government, and finally, a third -fraction, furnished by the shareholders, runs the risk of not realising -the least return for a long time. The question of the increase of -guaranteed capital, in discussion between the Imperial Government and -the company, must indubitably have aided in augmenting the -embarrassments in which the company flounders. It would be very proper -to put an end as soon as possible to every question delaying the -prosperity of an enterprise whose capital has contributed largely to the -development and riches of the Province of Pernambuco. It is needful to -give a definite settlement to that question of the increase of the -guaranteed capital of this railway which has been submitted to your -deliberation. The directory in London is constantly reiterating its -reclamations for a final decision. As we do not possess the needful -means for undertakings of this kind, it is of much importance to us that -foreign capital, which comes to try and to explore, may obtain -advantages that may encourage other enterprises. - -On the other hand, it is of very great interest to the State that -companies which enjoy a guarantee of interest may prosper in such a mode -as to dispense with the guarantee. The company having to meet the next -payment of debenture bonds, whose time was ending, and neither having -funds in hands for it nor the power of raising them in London, it -recurred to the Imperial Government, asking for a loan of £40,000, but -this the Government could not grant, as it was not duly authorised. - -The question of the prolongation to the city of Recife has occupied my -attention, especially since the engineer of the company presented the -plans and estimates for the realisation of the project. According to -them the direction of the line should run parallel to the streets of -Santa Rita, Nova, and Praia, and the cost is estimated at £5,000. - - Although the company comprehends the advantage it should obtain by - this prolongation it is not disposed to undertake the works without - a guarantee on the capital expended, or without some other pecuniary - assistance. The advantages which this work will produce for the - agriculture and commerce of the province, and the small sacrifice - which its execution asks from the public coffers dispose me - favourably towards it, and if, as I hope, the examinations I ordered - into those plans and estimates do not change my opinion, I will at a - proper time authorise a contract for this improvement. - - In accordance with the dispositions of the law I authorised the - Imperial Legation in London to lend the sum of £15,000 to the - company, to be employed in increasing the rolling stock. The company - proposing, however, to accept the loan without interest, and to - amortise the principal with the excess of revenue over seven per - cent., I declared the proposal inacceptable. - - The revenue diminished by 47:917$011 from that of the preceding - year, it coming to 599:331$445. The expenses on the contrary rose - from 364:134$259 in 1866 to 414:772$537, an increase of 50:638$270 - occurring therefore in 1867. This double result is partly explained - by the diminution of the traffic in consequence of bad harvest in - the localities profiting by the road, and partly by the need to - promptly carry out the repairs of the road. Although it is desirable - that this result had not occurred, it should not suscitate serious - apprehensions for the future of the railway. - - - SANTOS AND JUNDIAHY RAILWAY. - - This line was inaugurated on the 15th, and opened on the 16th of - February, 1866: this road at once commenced to show an extensive - traffic, which, augmenting day by day as the planters became - convinced of its superiority over ordinary methods, prognosticates - most brilliant destinies to it. However, notwithstanding its evident - inferiority, the common road still maintains a serious competition - with the railway and takes from it a part of the products which are - sent to Santos from the interior, inasmuch as, out of 1,004,779 - arrobas, at which amount the total traffic is estimated, 611,818 go - by the railroad, and 392,961 by the highway. Despite this - competition, and the difficulties with which every enterprise - struggles at first, however well organised, the gross receipts of - the Santos and Jundiahy railway, since its opening, up to the end of - 1867, rose to 1,236:423$702, thus giving more than 4¾ per cent. upon - the capital employed. It maybe presumed that, when the short life - competition referred to is overcome, and when the line is extended - to Campinas, taking into account the natural increase of production - in a province so favourably placed, the revenue would soon double, - thus freeing the treasury from the onus of the guarantee of - interest. The Santos and Jundiahy Railway is, therefore, one of - those amongst us which promise best; and perhaps it may be - considered the first industrial undertaking of the kind, if the - serra service, by means of inclines, does not exact a constant - outlay which will diminish the revenue. - - During the past year the trains of the road transported 176,081 - passengers, namely: - - 1st Class 19,078½ - 2nd Class 26,033½ - 3rd Class 130,952 - Season tickets 17 - ———————— - Total 176,081 - - The plan of Engineer P. Fox for the extension of the line to - Campinas having received the preference over the other traces - presented to the ministry in my charge, the President of the - province undertook to promote a company of planters and capitalists - to carry this important benefit into effect. The company having the - right of preference to the extension of the railway, I instructed - our Minister in London to obtain an explicit declaration from the - directory renunciatory of its right, in order that there might be no - future doubts or reclamations. The directors replied that the - company expressly desisted from the right, and, therefore, the - association could proceed with its measures for the realisation of - its object. In the opinion of Engineer E. Viriato de Medeiros the - amount of capital expended up to the 30th of July, 1866, amounted to - £2,548,434, but for payment of interest due it was estimated - hypothetically at £2,650,000. - - The provincial assembly not having empowered the President to pay - the interest of two per cent. upon the guaranteed capital, to which - the province had bound itself, it was necessary for the national - treasury to take upon itself the satisfaction of the provincial - promise. It is therefore requisite that the provincial assembly - provide in the estimate of this year for relieving the public - treasury from the charge upon its already too burdened coffers. - -It will be seen from these reports that all the guaranteed railways are -exposed to difficulties arising out of the special character of the -relations existing between the various companies and the Government, and -that Senhor Sobragy, the talented manager of the Dom Pedro Segundo -Railway, has been sent to England to try to come to terms with the -companies. In my opinion, however, nothing short of the Government -taking over the railways, giving in exchange a guaranteed stock, can -ever meet the requirements of the case, or bring these concerns out of -their present unfavourable position. It would be useless to recapitulate -here the causes of their failure. Certainly no fault can be laid to the -charge of the Government, which has acted in perfect good faith towards -them, and done probably more than any other Government ever did or would -do to assist undertakings of this or any other kind. Rashness, -ignorance, and bad advisers have led to most of their difficulties, and -with such proofs of the mismanagement of railway directors on our home -lines no one will be surprised at the unsuccessful result of their -management of lines abroad. - -As an evidence that railways can be made and properly managed by -Brazilians I need only refer to the Dom Pedro Segundo, a line quite as -important as any in the country. In separate chapters I have referred to -this railway, and also to that in the province of San Paulo. - -I believe it would be greatly to the advantage of the rising generation -in Brazil if the young men were trained to become engineers, rather than -lawyers or doctors, with which the towns and cities swarm. Brazilians -are neither deficient in talent nor energy, if properly brought out, and -the employés of the Dom Pedro Segundo are chiefly natives. The splendid -road to Juiz de Fora furnishes an example of this, and I regret time did -not permit me to make another visit there, which Senhor Mariano very -kindly urged on me. Had it not been for the heavy expenditure of the -Paraguayan war, the railway system of Brazil would doubtless have been -much more extensively developed, and the provincial lines now in -existence carried further into the interior, as it is impossible the -latter can ever be productive of much revenue, or of much national -benefit until they are prolonged to the chief centres of cultivation, -which, as a general rule, lie upwards of one hundred miles from the -coast. The provinces of Pernambuco and Bahia both attach great -importance to railway extension to the river San Francisco, but it does -not appear from the report of Captain Burton, who lately explored that -river, that it is likely to yield so much traffic as is supposed. The -want of population is the great drawback to railways, and until this -want can be met by emigration of some kind, a large amount of internal -wealth must lie waste. - -My long detention in the southern part of Brazil and the River Plate -prevented me visiting Bahia and Pernambuco, and judging from personal -observation as to the state and condition of the railways there, or -reporting on the new tramway from Caxioera to the interior, which -promises to be of great utility to the country traversed by it, as well -as remunerative to the shareholders interested in its future. - - - - - COMMERCE OF BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. - - -During the unfruitful dominion of Spain and Portugal, commerce with -South America was limited to the exchange of commodities between the -mother countries and the populations planted in the New World revealed -to Europe by the daring genius of the great Genoese navigator and those -bold spirits who after him traversed and explored strange oceans and -seas unknown. The Courts of Madrid and Lisbon adopted the most stringent -measures for the preservation of their monopoly and to prevent -commercial intercourse with their colonies by the subjects of foreign -States. So successful were the means taken to this end that very little -was known with certainty in England concerning those immense regions -until after the War of Independence freed them from the yoke under which -they had so long groaned. I need not in this place indicate all the -causes that led to this great revolution, but there can be no doubt the -example of our own American colonists and the principles disseminated by -the French Revolution exercised a potential influence in stirring the -South American communities to liberate themselves from the oppressive -restrictions with which they were fettered. - -The marauding exploits of Admiral Drake, and the rich prizes captured on -the Spanish main, had given our countrymen some notion of the -incalculable wealth of Chili and Peru, the Brazils, and the Rio de la -Plata; and their erection into separate and Sovereign States was hailed -as the advent of a new and prosperous era for the commerce of both -hemispheres. With a liberality and promptitude which will always be -remembered by the various South American nations, the capitalists of -Britain responded to their demands for pecuniary aid, and loans were -freely subscribed to enable the enfranchised peoples to establish -popular self-government upon solid bases. It may be said that this still -remains to be accomplished, and the frequently recurrent revolutions in -Bolivia and Peru, and in some others of the nascent Republics, are -certainly no manifestation of executive stability; but it must not be -forgotten that their antecedents, under the Spanish and Portuguese -control, were not of a nature to fit them for a wise and temperate -exercise of political privileges. Year by year, however, with the growth -of intelligence and the spread of education, the respective States are -becoming less subject to internal and civil convulsions; and in this -respect the rapid development of industrial and productive activity -gives promise of a still more satisfactory condition of things in the -proximate future. - -Since the abrogation of the monopolies of Spain and Portugal and the -inauguration of free intercourse with South America the commercial -movements between that part of the globe and the maritime nations of -Europe have assumed imposing proportions, and are every year increasing -in value and importance. As elsewhere, England holds a high place both -in the Pacific and Atlantic markets, as an importer of products and an -exporter of manufactured goods. Our Board of Trade Returns show the -magnitude of British interests in those countries, and the necessity -that exists for promoting the most cordial relations with the different -Governments. But at present I must confine my observations to Brazil and -the River Plate, and from a reference to the returns in question it will -be seen that the former is our largest South American customer, taking -commodities to the annual value of £5,822,918, while we in return -receive Brazilian produce of the annual value of £5,902,011. The River -Plate comes next in order, taking English goods of the annual value of -£4,405,548, while it sends to us produce worth £2,146,079. It will -appear, therefore, that the total movements between this country and -Brazil and the River Plate are respectively of the yearly value of -£11,724,929 and £6,545,627. And here I may state, without going into -particulars, that the entire commercial movement between England and the -whole of South America reaches the no inconsiderable sum of £34,566,405. -The above returns are for the year 1867.[6] - -The Board of Trade Returns, though they exhibit, in figures surpassing -eloquence in their convincing power, the extensive character of our own -trading relations with Brazil and the River Plate, of course convey only -a partial idea of the commercial activity of the countries named. - -Brazil and the Argentine Republic both carry on a large business with -other European nations. With regard to the first it will be seen from -the statistics we quote below that the Empire has large transactions -with France and the Continent, as well as with the United States, to -which the bulk of her coffee crop is shipped. - -In the Budget of last year, submitted to the National Assembly by the -then Finance Minister, Senhor Zacharias, I find the following:— - - COMMERCE OF IMPORTATION, EXPORTATION, AND NAVIGATION. - - The value of the import trade in 1866-67, according to the official - data in the treasury, was 143,483:745$; 22,503:313$, or 18.6 per - cent, more than the average of the five years 1861-2 to 1865-6, and - 5,716:903$, or 4.1 per cent, more than 1865-6. - - This importation took place in the various provinces in the - following proportion, which is compared with that of 1865-6:— - - 1865-66. 1866-67. Over in '65-6. - Rio de Janeiro 80,709:067$ 80,458:064$ - Bahia 17,598:941 17,878:203 279:262$ - Pernambuco 21,083:655 22,211:290 1,127:645 - Maranhao 2,946:760 4,028:383 1,081:623 - Para 4,613:218 5,396:706 783:488 - S. Pedro 6,514:928 7,746:076 1,231:144 - S. Paulo 1,295:948 1,546:755 250:807 - Parana 154:083 237:278 83:195 - Parahyba 26:067 99:446 73:379 - Ceara 1,924:546 2,586:973 662:689 - Santa Catharina 449:246 630:912 181:066 - Alagoas 62:250 219:537 157:287 - Sergipe 63:177 17:390 - Espirito Santo 1:209 2:116 907 - Rio Grande do Norte 30:853 171:654 140:801 - Piauhy 293:157 252:957 - ——————————— ——————————— ————————— - 136,766:842 143,483:745 6,053:893 - - Diminutions occurred in Rio de Janeiro 251:003$, Sergipe 45:787$, - and Piauhy 40:209$; total, 336:990$. - - The countries whence the importation came in 1866-67 were the - following:— - - Great Britain and possessions 58,276:905$783 - United States 4,300:628 878 - France and possessions 22,023:196 953 - La Plata 12,325:712 734 - Portugal and possessions 5,580:451 780 - Hanseatic Cities 4,340:509 479 - Spain and possessions 805:919 990 - Sweden 222:194 583 - Denmark 34:134 495 - Russia 12:277 800 - Coast of Africa 151:773 425 - Italy 468:789 695 - Chili 537:023 100 - Belgium 1,333:855 778 - Austria 910:268 440 - Holland 3:017 850 - China 23:400 000 - Peru 680 000 - Ports of the Mediterranean 29:744 000 - Ports of the Empire 1,354:734 000 - Fisheries 1:381 200 - Ports not mentioned 30,747:145 332 - ——————————————— - Total 143,483:745 290 - - The value of the exports of native production and manufacture to - foreign countries was in 1866-67 156,020:906$, 21,516:502$, or 15.9 - per cent. more than the average of the five years 1861-2 to 1865-6, - and less by 1,066:652$ or O.67 per cent. than in 1865-6. - - The countries whither the exports of 1866-7 went were the - following:— - - Russia 460:660$717 - Sweden 773:111 068 - Holland 80:356 944 - Hanseatic Cities 4,816:242 458 - Great Britain and possessions 37,283:974 040 - France and possessions 18,582:278 631 - Spain and possessions 165:387 149 - Portugal and possessions 4,347:275 259 - Belgium 328:0485$841 - Austria 61:381 600 - Italy 734:400 624 - Chili 414:903 411 - United States 31,188:066 047 - La Plata 7,014:207 881 - Turkey 149:347 716 - Denmark 913:630 980 - Coast of Africa 448:869 272 - Channel 16,511:659 000 - Ports of the Baltic and Mediterranean 1,363:562 864 - Ports not known 30,335:659 000 - Consumption 42:642 178 - ——————————————— - Total 156,020:906 766 - - The total of the direct importation and the national exportation - abroad was in:— - - 1866-67 299,504:651 - - Compared with 1865-66, namely 294,854:400 - - ——————————— - - There was an augment of 4,650:251 - - Or 1.5 per cent., and, if compared with the average of 255,483:836 - 1861-2 to 1865-6, namely - - There was an increase of 44,020:815, or 17.2 per cent. - - The value of the importation with certificate (carta de guia) was in - 1865-67 24,902:670$, 823:969$, or 3.4 per cent. more than in 1865-6, - 2,448:821$, or 12.6 per cent. more than the average of the five - years 1861-2 to 1865-6. - - The re-exportation in 1866-7 rose to 1,786:052$, 447:993$, or 33.4 - per cent. more than in 1865-6, and 377:686$, or 26.8, than the - average of 1861-2 to 1865-6. - - The number of national and foreign vessels cleared in the foreign - trade of 1866-7 was:— - - Entered 3,439 vessels 1,245,214 tons 51,450 men. - Sailed 2,429 vessels 1,496,274[A] tons 49,655 men. - - Including nationals:— - - Entered 255 vessels 43,579 tons 1,953 men. - Sailed 209 vessels 47,703[7] tons 2,174 men. - -The products of Brazil are very varied, but the principal articles, and -the relative positions they occupy in the commerce of the country, will -be seen by the estimated quantity and value of the exports from Rio de -Janeiro for 1867, as stated in the Official Report to our Foreign Office -by Mr. Pakenham:— - - Quantity. Value. - Coffee lbs. 424,532,680 £8,776,590 - Sugar lbs. 8,980,960 106,752 - Cotton lbs. 9,240,000 350,000 - Rum pipes 3,865 40,000 - Salted hides pipes 4,200,000 57,540 - Dry hides pipes 250,000 8,250 - Tapioca barrels 11,294 25,066 - Horns barrels 116,860 1,519 - Tobacco bales 51,615 154,845 - Diamonds oitavas 5,704 37,000 - —————————— - Total £9,558,287 - - The exports from Pernambuco, Para, Bahia, Santos, and Rio Grande do - Sul during the same period amount to about £7,000,000. - -Mr. Pakenham, in the same report, also remarks:—“The Brazilian imports -and exports for the last year for which there are Customs statistics -amounted to £14,348,374 for imports, and to £15,607,090 for exports, and -the total commercial movement with foreign countries had then increased -17 per cent. on the average of the preceding five years.” - -The trade statistics of the Argentine Republic are quite as encouraging -as those of its Imperial ally. I have before me a valuable communication -of Mr. Daniel Maxwell, of Buenos Ayres, addressed to the Sociedade Rural -Argentina, in which he makes the following comparative statements as to -the exports of produce during the periods mentioned:— - - From 1858 to 1862. From 1862 to 1867. - Dry Ox and Cow Hides 5,554,417 6,798,152 - Salted Ox and Cow Hides 1,972,755 2,325,084 - Dry Horse Hides 305,057 197,264 - Salted Horse Hides 780,190 617,945 - Bales of Wool 251,191 608,706 - Bolsas of Wool 7,456 9,517 - -With the exception of horse hides these figures manifest a very material -and striking augmentation in the productive energy of the Republic. The -proportionate distribution is shown in the annexed tables:— - - DRY OX, COW, AND HORSE HIDES. - - From 1858 to 1862. From 1862 to 1867. - Great Britain .233 2.816 - France 11.936 8.054 - Belgium, Holland, and Germany 25.847 11.585 - United States 29.029 48.904 - Italy 12.844 10.562 - Spain 18.011 17.985 - Sweden and Norway .094 - ——————— ——————— - 100.000 100.000 - - SALTED OX, COW, AND HORSE HIDES. - - From 1858 to 1862. From 1862 to 1867. - Great Britain 63.123 45.484 - France 12.592 14.533 - Belgium, Holland, and Germany 17.873 31.807 - United States 2.626 1.889 - Italy 3.482 4.893 - Spain 6.304 .408 - Sweden and Norway .914 - ——————— ——————— - 100.000 100.000 - - WOOLS. - - From 1858 to 1862. From 1862 to 1867. - Great Britain 10.273 7.235 - France 27.508 25.109 - Belgium, Holland, and Germany 39.784 45.433 - United States 21.083 20.340 - Italy 1.303 1.766 - Spain .039 .030 - Sweden and Norway .087 - ——————— ——————— - 100.000 100.000 - -The number of sheep skins exported from 1858 to 1862 was 8,705,883 -against 20,776,898 from 1862 to 1867; and with respect to the wool -exported it may be desirable to explain that a bale of wool usually -contains 34 arrobas, and that four _bolsas_ or _chiguas_ are equivalent -to a bale. According to this calculation, the export of wool from 1858 -to 1862 reached 8,705,883 arrobas against 20,776,898 arrobas from 1862 -to 1867. - -The war with Paraguay, though it has undoubtedly pressed upon the -financial resources of the Republic, has in no manner arrested its -commercial, industrial, and fiscal progress. This is very clearly -apparent from statistics furnished by his Excellency Don Norberto de la -Riestra in connection with the issue of the recent Argentine loan -contracted in this country to cover the balance of the extraordinary -expenditure caused by the protracted struggle with Lopez. I quote as -follows from the document referred to, the value of which will be -obvious:— - - The official value of the foreign trade of the Republic through the - port of Buenos Ayres alone in 1865 was as follows:— - - Imports £5,420,603 - Exports 4,399,355 - —————————— - Total £9,819,958 - - In 1866 it was:— - - Imports £6,453,817 - Exports 4,605,942 - ——————————— - Total £11,059,759 - - The real value of the aggregate trade for 1866, including the other - ports of the Republic, cannot be estimated at less than £16,000,000, - and has continued since to augment. - - The declared value of produce and manufactures exported from the - United Kingdom to the Republic in 1867 has amounted to £2,838,037, - taking in this respect the lead of all the other South American - States, Brazil only excepted. - - The export of wool, which is the staple article, from the port of - Buenos Ayres alone was as follows:— - - Season 1863-64 77,343,200 lbs. - Season 1864-65 104,688,000 lbs. - Season 1865-66 120,362,400 lbs. - - and the same progressive increase is observable in the other - productions of the country. - -Referring to Brazil, every Parisian luxury is found in the cities, Rio -de Janeiro being full of French shops, and the Rua d'Ouvidor, one of its -principal streets, is almost exclusively French. Of course many -important trades and industrial occupations are carried on, and in -particular the manufacture of carriages, which equal in elegance and -solidity those of any country in Europe. Iron foundries, iron -ship-building, and other useful establishments also exist; but there are -few cotton, woollen, or silk manufactories. Therefore the commerce of -Brazil is almost entirely one of exchange. - -As regards the River Plate, a large trade is maintained with France, -Belgium, and other parts of Europe, where River Plate produce is -extensively consumed. It is only necessary to look at the manner in -which the ladies of Monte Video and Buenos Ayres dress to form an idea -of the extent of French imports to those places. There are no -manufactories in the River Plate beyond such as have been specified in -regard to Brazil, carriage making being equally conspicuous. - -It is a feature in the Board of Trade Returns that Paraguay, which has -of late years caused such a noise in the world, makes no figure -whatever. Now of course it is under blockade, but previous to that event -the figures were almost _nil_. Had the ruler of that country used his -energies to produce and export 5,000 bales of cotton annually, for which -article the land and climate are admirably adapted, what would have been -the state and condition of Paraguay at the present moment? It is not -requisite to enlarge on such a topic. - -Whilst adverting to the commerce of these countries, and to their -internal wealth, their mineral products must not be left out of sight, -and in this respect Brazil possesses a great superiority from the steady -working of her gold and diamond mines, which have always been a source -of considerable revenue, even though they are probably not yet very -perfectly explored. To do this it requires a large outlay of money and -the enterprise of private individuals or public companies. Formerly the -mines were worked exclusively for the Crown. - -The Argentine Republic has not yet given much signs of mineral activity, -but there can be no doubt gold exists, as well as silver, in the Andine -Provinces, and when the railway is carried on to Cordova we may hear a -good deal more of the San Juan silver mines, to the development of which -Major Rickards has devoted himself for so many years. - -In the Banda Oriental gold has long been known to exist in the mountains -of Canapiru, and the indefatigable Mr. Bankhart has succeeded in forming -a company of Monte Videan shareholders to operate there. He is now in -England obtaining the needful machinery and securing workmen for the -mines. If successful it will be a great boon to the country, and may -assist in providing a future metallic currency, from lack of which -things now appear to be at a deadlock. - -It will be seen from this short summary how closely our commercial -interests are identified with those of the countries referred to, and -how desirable it is, as at present, that the most friendly relations -should be maintained with them. Nor are these likely to be again -disturbed. In every port and city in South America are to be found -British merchants and representatives of the country, the latter placed -there, not, as previously, with a view to cavil, find fault, and -threaten, but to see fair play and justice impartially administered to -British subjects. The doctrine of non-interference in the political -squabbles of other countries is now generally adopted, diplomatic -meddlers are discouraged, and the post of foreign minister in South -America is much more agreeable than formerly. - ------ - -Footnote 6: - - It may be interesting to show the progressive nature of them by taking - the Board of Trade figures in connection with those countries for the - previous four years as follows:— - - Brazil— Imports. Exports. Total. - 1863 £4,491,000 4,082,641 8,573,641 - 1864 7,021,121 6,369,359 13,400,480 - 1865 6,797,241 5,771,024 12,468,265 - 1866 7,237,793 7,358,141 14,595,934 - - River Plate— - 1863 £2,460,280 1,897,164 3,357,444 - 1864 2,285,486 2,788,653 5,074,139 - 1865 2,263,540 2,824,823 5,088,363 - 1866 2,613,263 4,250,470 6,863,733 - -Footnote 7: - - The “sailed” are toneladas of 1,728 lbs. - - - - - THE RIVER AMAZON. - - -As it has not been my good fortune to visit this mighty stream, I -cannot, of course, speak of it from personal experience, but the Amazon -is exciting so much attention in various parts of the world in -consequence of the late voyage of Professor Agassiz that a brief notice -may not be out of place here. - -Most persons have read Mr. Bates' very interesting work, “The Naturalist -on the Amazon,” in which he has described in so graphic a manner the -wonders of that country in the shape of animal and vegetable life. Since -it was written a great change has taken place in the future prospects of -the Amazon by the politic step of the Brazilian Government in throwing -open its waters to the flags of all nations, from which will result much -valuable information, if it is not immediately followed by commercial -progress to the extent that some sanguine writers have foretold. This -act has called forth in Europe and America the most gratifying tributes -in commendation of the unselfish attitude thus assumed by Brazil towards -the commerce of the world. The American journals are especially -unstinted in their praise. With regard to the probable consequences of -this measure one writer, the Rev. J. C. Fletcher, states as follows:— - - The opening of the Amazon, which occurred on the 7th of September, - 1867, and by which the great river is free to the flags of all - nations from the Atlantic to Peru, and the abrogation of the - monopoly of the coast trade from the Amazon to the Rio Grande do - Sul, whereby 4,000 miles of Brazilian sea coast are open to the - vessels of every country, cannot fail not only to develop the - resources of Brazil, but will prove of great benefit to the - bordering Hispano-American Republics and to the maritime nations of - the earth. The opening of the Amazon is the most significant - indication that the leven of the narrow monopolistic Portuguese - conservatism has at last worked out. Portugal would not allow - Humboldt to enter the Amazon valley in Brazil. The result of the new - policy is beyond the most sanguine expectation. The exports and - imports for Para for October and November, 1867 were double those of - 1866. This is but the beginning. Soon it will be found that it is - cheaper for Bolivia, Peru, Equador, and New Granada east of the - Andes to receive their goods from and to export their indiarubber, - chincona, &c., to the United States and Europe _via_ the great water - highway which discharges into the Atlantic than by the long, - circuitous route of Cape Horn, or the Trans-Isthmian route of - Panama. The Purus and the Madeira are hereafter to be navigated by - steamers. The valley of the Amazon in Brazil is as large as the area - of the United States east of Colorado, while the valley of the - Amazon in and out of Brazil is equal to all the United States east - of California, Oregon, and Washington territory, and yet the - population is not equal to the single city of Rio de Janeiro or the - combined inhabitants of Boston and Chicago. It is estimated that a - larger population can be sustained in the valley of the Amazon than - elsewhere on the globe. - -Explorations have already been commenced by enterprising men from the -Southern States of America, who have no doubt of the adaptability of the -soil and of the climate on the banks of this noble stream for all the -productions of the torrid zone. One of these pioneers, Mr. John W. -Dowsing, has lately presented a most interesting report, with respect to -the resources of Para, to his Excellency the President of that important -province:— - - May it please your Excellency, I herewith have the honour to submit - a succinct Report of a recent exploration of a portion of the valley - of the Amazon, and some of the tributaries of the Amazon river, by - me, accompanied by Captain John B. Jones, George M. Sandidge, - Charles H. Mallory, and Charles M. Broom, and all under the - patronage of the Imperial Government of Brazil. - - In accordance with instructions from the Minister of Agriculture to - your Excellency, I was furnished with transportation, and one conto - of reis to defray incidental expenses, and letters to various - officials within the Province of Para to facilitate my explorations - and secure as far as practicable every information I might desire in - regard to the country, in order that I might more fully report to - those of my countrymen in the United States who are now deeply - interested in emigration. - - Myself and party, consisting of the four above-named gentlemen, left - Belem on the 9th of November, 1867, on board the steamer Soure for - Cameta on the Rio Tocantins. After several days' preparation we - ascended that river nearly to the falls; returning we ascended the - Amazon and Tapajoz rivers to the town of Santarem and surrounding - country, thence to the contiguous islands and up the Tapajoz, thence - up the Amazon river to its junction with the Rio Negro to the city - of Manaos. - - From Manaos we made several excursions into the country. It was my - purpose to go to Rio Branco, but utterly failing to obtain - transportation, after remaining twenty-two days, I changed my course - to Rio Matary and the lakes into which it leads. - - The information I obtained at the various places visited would - doubtless be of great utility to the commercial world. It would open - up a new market for the various productions, and new fields for the - employment of industry. - - The trade up the valley of the Amazon, upon the great river and its - numerous tributaries, is very considerable. Its full extent and - value does not appear in the published statistics of your commerce. - - The trade up this magnificent valley is susceptible of almost - unlimited expansion. It stands alone in the inconceivable grandeur - of its capabilities and the wonderful sublimity of its future - destinies. - - This magnificent valley, with its wonderful and inexhaustible - resources, will form a great avenue of commercial communication - between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans. It is an immense - prolific theatre for the formation of colonies. There is no doubt - but that the best route for many manufactures from Europe and North - America to Peru is through the valley of the Amazon. The productions - of this wonderful valley are necessarily very diversified. They - include all the tropical vegetables and fruits, many kinds of - furniture and dyewoods, many medicinal drugs, and in the elevated - lands it is peculiarly rich in minerals. The great staples exported - in which the commercial world is interested are indiarubber, cacao, - sarsaparilla, tobacco, hides salted and green, various vegetable - oils, cotton, deer skins, isinglass, urucu, rice, &c., &c. - - The general surface of a great portion of the Province of Para is - even and undulating while it is diversified with many rich campos - and numerous beautiful lakes and streams, filled with every variety - of fish and turtle. Elevated lands, rising here and there, impart - variety, grandeur, and picturesque beauty to its scenery. - - To expatiate upon the beauty, capabilities, and resources of the - numerous streams tributary to the great basin of the Amazon, the - country margining these streams, the general characteristics of the - inhabitants, &c., would invite and justify a voluminous report. I - will content myself, however, with a few reflections upon the - brilliant future that awaits this favoured country. - - My investigations disclose that the valley of the Amazon is one - immense forest of valuable timber, woods of the finest grain, and - susceptible of the highest polish: adapted to cabinet purposes. For - building vessels there is no woods on the earth equal to those grown - in the valley of the Amazon. - - This is the country for indiarubber, sarsaparilla, balsam, copaiba, - gum copal, animal and vegetable wax, cocoa, castanha nuts, sapucaia - nuts, tonka beans, ginger, black pepper, arrowroot, annetto, indigo, - dyes of the gayest colours, and drugs of rarest medicinal virtues. - - These immense forests are filled with game, and all the rivers and - lakes are filled with fish and turtle. - - The climate of this country is salubrious and the temperature most - agreeable. The direct rays of the sun are tempered by a constant - east wind, laden with moisture from the ocean, so that one never - suffers from either heat or cold. I found the nights invariably cool - enough to use blankets. With the succulent tropical fruits, the - great variety of game, and the salubrious climate, this country is a - paradise for the indolent man; for here he can maintain life almost - without an effort. - - The geographical position of Belem gives it many advantages. It is - in the direct route of vessels to or from European and North - American ports and the Pacific and Indian oceans. Therefore this - city could be made a half way station for vessels thus bound to - receive orders. - - With an interior river navigation of many thousands of miles, with a - soil of great fertility, and a climate which allows tropical - vegetation to develop itself in all its luxuriance, with varied and - inexhaustible mineral wealth, the Provinces of Para and Amazonas are - specially marked out by nature to become the most wealthy country on - the globe. - - Belem possesses the requisites for carrying on commerce on an - extensive scale. The right steps have been adopted in inaugurating - and securing a general commercial system for Belem by the - establishment of the Amazon Steamship Company. - - In order to build up this city and country, and make it what the - future determines it to be, the mineral and agricultural resources - must be developed. - - The slave population is being rapidly diminished by the war with - Paraguay and self-emancipation. How is this labour to be - re-supplied? It can only be done by the immigration of the hard - working, industrious yeomanry of the United States and Europe. The - surplus population of Europe and the disaffected citizens in the - Southern portion of the United States will find their way to this - immediate section of the country. - - The great exodus will as naturally flow into the vast arable area of - the valley of the Amazon as did the tribes of Asia flow into Europe - through the passes of the Caucausus. - - Every advancing wave of population will lift higher and higher the - gathering flood of human life, which the moment it commences to - press upon the means of subsistence in their respective countries - must pour all of its vast tide of human beings into the great valley - of the Amazon, and will eventually unite in one living chain of - industrial life the waters of the Atlantic with the Pacific. - - This country as yet is but a wilderness, but the inexorable laws of - civilisation will at no distant day thread the labyrinthian mazes of - this immensely fertile valley, and when teeming with industrious - life it will pour into the coffers of this Empire untold wealth, - thereby giving this portion of the Imperial Government a - significance second to no portion of the earth. - - The rich natural and agricultural productions of this valley must be - poured out to the balance of the world. Upon the banks of each of - the tributaries of the mighty Amazon city after city will as by - enchantment arise to export the productions of the soil of this - favoured country. The valley of the Amazon is yet to exercise a - powerful influence on the political destinies of this Empire. - - The future destiny of this valley is to be a glorious one; and - fortunate the descendants of those who may now obtain a foothold and - interest upon this soil. As already indicated the true elements of - future greatness lie in the substratum of industry. The valley of - the Amazon must have labour to develop its resources. The cities of - North America and Europe are crowded with young men seeking - employment. - - The offices of European Consuls in the United States are crowded - with foreigners, who have exhausted their last cent and are seeking - for any kind of work. - - Let them come to the valley of the Amazon with agricultural - implements and obtain a home upon these fertile lands. Those who are - lingering around the crowded seaports of poverty and vice, having no - chance with others in the great world, should turn their attention - to the valley of the Amazon, where a free homestead upon rich lands - and with salubrious climate can be obtained. - - The prosperity of this country is the future welfare of all - civilised nations. This country has everything to hope for; nature - has not been unmindful of its most precious gifts to this land. - - In the selection of lands, upon which it is my purpose to establish - a colony, I will be governed by the advantages offered by the lands - at Brigança over those explored. If the lands at Brigança are well - watered and rich its accessibility will decide me. - -The migration to Brazil of energetic and agricultural population from -the former Confederate States of North America is still going on, and -may produce hereafter a most beneficial effect on the destinies of the -Empire. On this topic General Hawthorn and Mr. W. T. Moore have -addressed some interesting remarks to the Brazilian Minister of -Agriculture. The following is the concluding paragraphs of the -communication to which I refer:— - - The people of the South must emigrate but how, and where to? These - are questions that may well engage the earnest attention of every - Government that desires to increase the number of its good and loyal - citizens. Though there may be a few unworthy persons claiming to be - from the late Confederate States who have imposed and forced their - lazy carcases and worthless habits upon this kind and liberal - Government, we desire to say in the most emphatic and unequivocal - terms that the great body of the Southern people are not - professional emigrants, who systematically cringe the knee and - hypocritically kiss the feet of every monarch that will scatter - among them the crumbs of charity; on the contrary, they are the - remnants of a gallant race, who, having struggled in vain to save - their country from destruction and themselves from slavery, will - like Æneas and his Trojan followers gather round them their aged - fathers and mothers, their wives, their children, their household - gods, and, emigrating to some foreign land, lend their powerful aid - in building up the country of their adoption and pushing it forward - to a conspicuous place in the front rank of nations. - - They will carry with them their statesmen, their orators, and their - men of science, and though they may carry little gold and silver, - and but a few of this world's goods, yet they will carry with them - rich stores of great and active thought, vast mines of unflagging - energy and industry, immense treasures of practical and scientific - knowledge in planting, navigation, commerce, and the fine arts. They - will carry with them stout hearts, untarnished honour, and - unconquered manhood; but above all, for that Government which shall - now extend its liberal hand and relieve them in this their hour of - need, they will cherish that unshaken fidelity and loyalty that will - uphold and maintain it in its prosperity and rally around and die - for it whenever its day of trial and danger comes. They are a race - that have won imperishable honours in every walk of life, and upon - every field of action that has ever been opened to human enterprise, - and wherever they go in large bodies they cannot fail to add wealth - to the coffers and prosperity to the land of their adoption. - - Having adopted Brazil as our future home, and believing as we do - that it is better adapted to the wants of our people than any other - country upon earth, we should rejoice to see the good and true - people of the South emigrate in masses to this wonderful country. - Hence our anxiety that this Government should fully understand the - character, the capacities, and the habits of the Southern people. - Since we have been in Brazil we have reflected deeply upon this - subject, and the result of our observations and reflections is that - the people of the late Confederate States, being, as they are, - strangers to the language, habits, and customs of this country, - cannot be completely prosperous or contented here unless they settle - in colonies by themselves, and that too upon a scale sufficiently - large to carry on successfully all the various trades and - professions, to have their own schools and churches, in short, to - relieve them from the necessity of learning a foreign language - before obtaining complete success in their agricultural, - manufacturing, or mercantile operations. We are also deeply - impressed with the belief that in order to a full development of - their energies as a people and a successful renewal of those - glorious triumphs in every art and science that once rendered them - so illustrious, it is necessary they should be left as free and - untrammelled in their action as the safety and dignity of an - enlightened and liberal Government will admit. We therefore - respectfully suggest that (as an inducement for this heroic people - to emigrate to Brazil in one vast body, bringing with them their - greatest, their wisest, and their best men; bringing with them their - household goods, their customs, their manners, their indomitable - energy and unflinching courage; but above all, bringing in their - bosoms the bright hope that their race is not yet run, but that a - brilliant and a glorious future awaits them here) the Government - cause to be set apart and reserved for their settlement and use - large bodies of the public lands, which may be selected by judicious - and intelligent men; that these lands be surveyed as occasion may - require, and sold in limited quantities, at fixed uniform rates, to - that people alone, or to such as they may desire to settle in their - midst; and that they be allowed full and complete religious - toleration, as also the full rights of citizenship, whenever they - shall take the oath of allegiance to the Government; that each of - these colonies, including such as are already established, as well - as those that may be established hereafter, be made a congressional, - military, and judicial district, which, when it shall have the - requisite number of inhabitants, shall be entitled to - representatives in the national and provincial assemblies, chosen - from among themselves; that so far as possible all their officers - placed immediately over them be men speaking their own language, and - familiar with their customs and manners; that all professional men - among them who shall produce satisfactory evidence of good character - and a reputable practice in the land from which they came be - permitted to practice their respective professions within the limits - of the said colonies, without having to undergo rigorous - examinations in a foreign language; in short, that every liberal - concession be made that a true and loyal people could ask, or a wise - and generous Government could grant. - - Your Excellency need not fear the result. Ours is not a race that - breeds either traitors or cowards. When we have once plighted our - faith, dangers cannot weaken nor bayonets break its clasp. Every - liberal concession which a generous prince may grant, or an - enlightened people sanction, will but strengthen our loyalty and - increase our gratitude. We sincerely trust that your Excellency will - live to see the day when Brazil, renovated and strengthened by the - infusion of this great Southern element, will assume among the - nations of the earth the very first place in prosperity, glory, and - power, as she now holds the first in charity and true kindness to a - brave but unfortunate people. - -That the policy of the Brazilian Government with regard to her -territories on the Amazon is in the right direction no one can deny, and -it is in striking contrast with the proceedings of the ruler of -Paraguay, who could, in the erection of his formidable strongholds, have -had no other object in view than that of impeding, if he did not -absolutely obstruct, the passage of the River Paraguay. Paraguayan -advocates have, indeed, endeavoured to show that the opening of the -Amazon by Brazil was solely dictated by self-interested motives, but let -the world look at the facts and judge accordingly. - -Many years back the Government largely subsidised a steam company to -navigate on the Amazon, which it continues to support notwithstanding -the pressure of financial difficulties. This company goes on prospering, -and adding to its fleet, and will now be still more useful in assisting -foreigners to pioneer their way. Thus the country can be explored and -settlements made. It is gratifying to hear the climate of the Amazon so -favourably spoken of in the reports I have inserted, as at one time it -was feared this would be a barrier to successful emigration. The -emphatic language of the writers is not to be mistaken, and the -Government of Brazil will do well to afford to the active and go-a-head -Anglo-Saxon race every possible encouragement in their emigration work. - -The city of Para is admirably placed and its trade has largely augmented -of late. In fact, it promises ere long to become the emporium of the -northern commerce of Brazil as Rio de Janeiro is of the southern, and -when we glance over the map, and see the enormous tributaries of the -Amazon extending as far as the waters of the great La Plata itself, it -is difficult to say what new sources of wealth may not be opened up from -the countries through which these rivers flow. There are natural -obstructions to be overcome, and tribes of Indians to be encountered, -but the strong arm and the willing heart can conquer these difficulties, -clearing their pathway through the forests to the fertile plains beyond. - -But little is yet known as to the Indian tribes scattered over the -immense valley of the Amazon and its tributaries. That they are not -numerous, however, is pretty certain, nor can they offer much resistance -to the advance of the white man, when once the tide of emigration to -that country is fairly set in. It would, of course, be politic to -conciliate and make friends of the aborigines, but circumstances do not -appear favourable to such an arrangement. - -By a recent Rio paper it appears that a lightship is shortly to be -placed at the entrance to Para, and that it had been successfully -experimented upon outside the port of Santa Cruz in the presence of the -Emperor. - -Alluding again to Professor Agassiz, I have had the pleasure of perusing -his valuable narrative, which, although containing much matter only of -interest to naturalists and scientific people, conveys at the same time -a wonderful amount of practical information, and from which a pretty -correct idea may be formed of the probable or speculative future of the -Amazon valley. - -The Amazon, I may just observe, flows through the territory of the -Empire for a distance of upwards of 500 leagues, and in its course -towards the ocean receives no fewer than eighteen affluents of the first -magnitude. The names are as follows: From the south, the Xingú, Tapajoz, -Madeira, Purus, Coary, Teffé, Myuruá, Hyutuby, and Hyavary; and from the -north, the Sary, Peru, Trombetas, Nhamunda, Uatuman, Uruba, Negro, -Hyupurá, and Iça. These rivers, from above the falls which exist on the -boundaries of the provinces of Para and Amazonas, are collectively -navigable by steamers for 7,351 leagues, not going outside the Imperial -territorial limits. In this total, navigation on the Amazon proper -figures for 580 leagues; that on the basins of the principal affluents -for 5,771 leagues; and that on the lesser tributaries, lakes, and canals -for 1,000 leagues. - -As I have already remarked the Amazonian network of navigable streams -reaches to within a little of the La Plata riverine system. The sources -of the Tapajoz, flowing into the Amazon, are only separated by an -inconsiderable strip of land from those of the Paraguay, flowing into -the River Plate, and were these two rivers connected by artificial means -an immense section of the South American Continent would be insulated by -ocean and fluvial waters. This great work may probably remain undone for -many years to come, but that it will be eventually accomplished I do not -at all doubt. The progress of commerce and the development of enterprise -in these countries clearly point to the ultimate realisation of this -magnificent result. - -Before passing to other topics, I will briefly notice another noble -river of Brazil—the San Francisco—which traverses the central portion of -the Empire, and waters the extensive and important provinces of Minas -Geraes, Bahia, Pernambuco, Alagoas, and Sergipe. The Rio das Velhas, Rio -Verde, Rio Grande, and the Paracatu are amongst its tributaries, and are -all of them streams which in Europe would be regarded as of very -superior size. The San Francisco is notable for its famous falls of -Paulo Affonso, which witnesses of both have pronounced to greatly excel -those of Niagara in their imposing majesty and grandeur. Above these -falls there is an uninterrupted navigation of about 230 leagues, and -below to the mouth, nearly 50 leagues, there is not the slightest -obstruction to vessels of respectable tonnage. - -A large part of the immense basin of the Paraguay, in the River Plate, -also belongs to Brazil, in whose territories most of the principal -rivers of that system have their origin; and numerous other streams, of -more or less consequence, permeate different parts of the Empire on -their way to the sea. Several of these are capable of navigation by -steamers for at least 100 leagues. - - - - - TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATION. - - -The North American Continent has now for some time past been linked to -Europe by the electric wire, inaugurating what may almost be termed a -new era of civilisation; and the fact of laying the cable will live in -history as long as the name of the leviathan ship through whose medium -this great result was accomplished. - -South America has yet to depend solely upon steam communication, but -doubtless the means of magnetic intercourse will soon be supplied. -Already a rival company has been formed to lay down a cable from Brest -to America under privileges obtained from the French and American -Governments, and the great ship, with her gallant commander, Sir James -Anderson, is again to be called into requisition. It is very desirable -that extra cables should be laid in case of accident to those at present -existing. - -I had hoped on my arrival home to find a company organised and a cable -about to be laid from Falmouth to Portugal and the Azores, for which a -concession had been obtained by Messrs. Rumball and Medlicott; but it -appears that the stupidity of the Cortes prevented this important line -being carried out—important to the world and to Portugal in particular, -as it would have rendered that country the great centre of telegraphic -communication, not only with her own islands, but also with North and -South America, to which it was intended the line should eventually be -carried. There would also have been a large and lucrative business -between England and Lisbon, in connection with the mail steamers to and -from Brazil, which at present is carried on under great disadvantage -through Spain. Portugal and Spain are sadly in arrear as regards -commercial progress and advancement, and Messrs. Rumball and Medlicott -experienced the same fate as the South Eastern of Portugal Railway, -which, though the Government had agreed to take it over, on equitable -terms, the Cortes refused to ratify the agreement. All Messrs. Rumball -and Medlicott required was an alteration in the law which prevented the -Government granting concessions for more than twenty years. The -concessionaries asked for ninety-nine years, which ought to have been -readily granted, seeing the manifest advantage to Portugal of -establishing such a facility for communication; but no, these _pés de -chumbo_ (leaden feet), as they are designated in other parts of the -world, would not quicken their pace even to promote the best interests -of their country. Sordid motives would also appear to be at the bottom -of these acts of repudiation, with which both Spain and Portugal are too -familiar. - -I think a line might be stretched across the Isthmus of Panama, passing -from the West Coast and over the Andes to Buenos Ayres, where a -telegraphic cable can easily be laid along the seaboard to Rio de -Janeiro. The Argentine Government is now laying down wires from Buenos -Ayres to Rosario, whence the Central Argentine Railway carries them on -to Cordova, so that a communication with Valparaiso or some port on the -West Coast would not be a very formidable work. - -Nothing would tend more to consolidate and bind the Argentine provinces -together than railways and electric wires. It is true the latter might -be exposed to temporary injury, from political agitators and others, but -this is no argument against the introduction of so great a civiliser, -which even savages soon learn to respect, and look upon with a certain -degree of awe. The onward march of civilisation and progress in the -Argentine, as well as the Chilian Republic, would most certainly, under -every circumstance, greatly tend to secure and keep open an agency so -useful to both. - -I understand that General Webb, United States Minister at Rio de -Janeiro, has lately been authorised to submit an important scheme for -the laying of an ocean cable to place Brazil in telegraphic -communication with both Europe and North America; and I am glad to learn -that there is great probability of something practical resulting from -the negotiations in progress in respect to this proposal. - - - - - RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. - - -Spain and Portugal as a matter of course introduced the Roman Catholic -religion in their South American conquests. The aborigines, being imbued -with a veneration for forms, or imagery of some kind, soon fell under -the influence of the priesthood. Volumes have been written on the power -and grandeur of the Jesuits, who were assuredly the pioneers of -civilisation in South America, and they certainly accomplished what the -sword could never have done. Papal and monarchial jealousy led to their -expulsion, but many substantial buildings still remain as evidence of -their activity and influence. The district called Missions, lying -between Paraguay, Brazil, and the Banda Oriental, which has long been a -bone of contention between the ruler of Paraguay and the Argentine -Republic, abounds with their ancient edifices, mostly in ruins, and -Paraguay itself retains to this day many of the characteristics of the -Jesuit rule, which was exercised in a despotic manner—half sacerdotal, -half military. - -Any one visiting South America must be struck with the enormous size of -the churches and convents, so utterly out of proportion to what must -have been the wants of the population at the period of their erection, -and even at this moment many of these buildings are unoccupied, as -stated in my notice of the Brazilian city of San Paulo. These churches -and convents were endowed with enormous tracts of land, which in process -of time have become very valuable, and if appropriated to State purposes -would go a long way towards paying off the national debt of Brazil. Some -measure of this kind will inevitably be adopted at some future period, -as in most instances the property itself is unproductive of any national -benefit, nor is it utilised for any national object. The power of the -priesthood still predominates and subjects the masses, if not a majority -of the enlightened population, to its influence, and little short of a -social revolution can wrest from the Church what is no longer required -for religious observances, or distributed in any way towards the spread -of religious knowledge. Mexico is an instance of the pernicious and -fatal effects produced by a dominant priesthood, and although the more -liberal views of Brazilians have weakened the priestly trammels in which -some other parts of South America are still held, few have come forward -to propose divesting the Church of her nonproductive property. - -The Roman Catholic religion is the religion of the State in Brazil, -though all others are tolerated by law and treaties, nor has any -difficulty ever arisen in this respect. At the same time it cannot be -denied that open attempts at proselytism would be attended with danger. -So long as foreign communities carry on their own religious ceremonies -quietly and without ostentation all will be well, but too much -demonstration might be productive of mischievous results. - -As a body it cannot be said the Roman Catholic priesthood of South -America is held in much esteem by the laity. Their stronghold is in the -subserviency of the more ignorant and narrow-minded of their flock, -precisely as we find it all over the world, and even at home. - -In the River Plate, owing in a great measure to the scattered nature of -the population, the influence of the priesthood has been less felt or -exercised than in Brazil, besides which the large introduction of the -foreign element in its towns and cities has led to greater freedom of -thought and action. Nevertheless the church has large possessions in -land, to which the same objections may be urged as in the case of -Brazil, and the sooner they are appropriated to national objects the -better. Cordova may be termed a city of churches and convents, the -greater number of which are useless. A recent writer on Cordova -says:—“In telling anything of Cordova it is impossible to omit to speak -of her churches: there are over thirty of them, besides the Cathedral. A -description of them and their riches and institutions would make a large -book. I have neither the requisite information, inclination, nor the -time to go into the details of this painful theme—the Church in Cordova -being so manifestly an incubus on the advancement of the country. -Immense capitals are locked up in massive buildings and lands, which the -clergy will neither sell nor cultivate, and a small army of friars and -nuns—unproductive men and women in every sense—is detached from the -world to manage these great properties, which yield nothing to the -people moral or material.” The great Republic of the United States -presents a good example to those of South America by permitting free -admission of every religion its citizens may choose to adopt without -allowing the predominance of any one in particular. - - - - - THE AFFLUENTS OF LA PLATA. - - -Here and there, in the progress of my work, I have casually referred to -the Rio de la Plata and its affluents; but the fluvial system which they -together constitute is certainly deserving of more than a merely cursory -comment. I will, therefore, add to my remarks on the Amazon and its -tributaries some more precise observations with respect to the numerous -rivers which give access to the fertile regions of Paraguay and furnish -the Argentine Confederation with an extensive littoral coast. - -The rivers Parana, Uruguay, and Paraguay are, however, now too well -known to necessitate any very minute description. The first originates -at no great distance from the shores of the Atlantic in that part of the -table land of Brazil which divides the watershed of the Amazon from the -watershed of the River Plate. Its most distant branch is the Rio Grande, -which it receives at the confluence of the latter with the Paranahyba; -and after an interrupted course of about 1,000 miles it finally effects -a junction with the Paraguay, its largest affluent. Thence its huge -volume of water, further augmented by the Uruguay, rolls to the ocean, -forming that wide fresh water sea known as the estuary of the Plate. The -Parana runs for nearly 900 miles within the limits of the Argentine -Republic, and of this distance quite 750 are navigable throughout the -whole year for sailing vessels and steamers of 300 tons burden. It -begins to rise owing to intertropical rains towards the end of December, -and this continues up to the close of April. Below its confluence with -the Paraguay the average rise is eleven to twelve feet. The only -tributary the Parana receives between its confluence with the Paraguay -and its absorption in the estuary of the La Plata is the Rio Salado, a -river of great length, and having its source in the Andine regions of -the Argentine Confederation. - -The Paraguay, like the Parana, has its origin in Brazilian territory. -After passing through the Estrecho of Sao Francisco, (lat. 20° S.) it -flows southwards, dividing the Republic of Paraguay from the Gran Chaco; -a few miles below Asuncion, at a point called Angostura, the channel is -narrowed by rocks, and the current becomes very rapid in consequence, -taking a bend west by south until it mingles with the Parana. The -Paraguay is navigable by large craft, and steamers have for some years -ascended to Asuncion and Matto Grosso. The Paraguay receives the -Pilcomayo, a very large stream of over 1,000 miles, and which, taking -its rise near the city of Chuquisaca, in Bolivia, traverses a vast -portion of that Republic, finally issuing from the Chaco wilderness at a -point a little above Asuncion. Of course the Paraguay is augmented by -numerous tributaries previous to its junction with the Pilcomayo, but -these need not be specially mentioned. The Araguarmini empties itself -into it at Oliva, and further down is the mouth of the Vermejo, a very -considerable river, the navigation of which opens to commerce a -territory of almost unrivalled fertility, and affords an easy access to -Bolivia, in which State, like the Pilcomayo, it has its sources. Efforts -have been made to facilitate the navigation of this fluvial highway, in -connection with which the name of Sor. Arce is deserving of special -allusion. This gentleman was the first to traverse the entire length of -this previously unexplored river, his first descent having been effected -in 1856. He followed its windings on a raft for a distance of 1,200 -miles, penetrating in his course dense forests, and braving exposure to -the rays of a tropical sun, not to speak of the danger incurred from -wild beasts, and the yet more formidable Indian savages. The Vermejo -will yet prove of incalculable advantage in conveying to the ocean the -valuable products of the Argentine and Bolivian interior. - -The Uruguay and the Parana partially enclose the Provinces of Entre Rios -and Corrientes, and the former is only navigable from the sea as far as -Salto, where rapids and falls occur; but above this point its waters are -adapted to small steamers and sailing craft. Its source is in Brazil. On -its banks are situated the towns of San Borja, Salto, Pysandu, -Concepcion, Fray Bentos, and Soriano. It passes through a well wooded -and picturesque country. Up to Salto it is constantly navigated by -steamers trading between that place and the lower communities, -especially Buenos Ayres and Monte Video. - - - - - THE REPUBLIC OF PARAGUAY. - - -The long and sanguinary conflict which the despotic ruler of this -country has been enabled, from various causes, to maintain against the -allied arms of Brazil and the other Platine States has naturally excited -considerable curiosity in Europe to know something of its past history, -people, and form of government. - -In order to arrive at a correct judgment in respect of this singular -people, and of their political and social condition, it is absolutely -necessary to go back to the time when the Jesuits exercised so potential -an influence in the River Plate, as in other parts of South America -where the members of this remarkable order were permitted to carry out -their questionable designs for the religious subjection and social -domination of the aboriginal inhabitants. - -The Jesuits first arrived in Paraguay at the beginning of the 17th -century, when they obtained from Spain the concession of a vast -territory of their own choosing, traversed by the Parana and Uruguay -rivers, and capable of growing a great variety of products, including -the sugar cane, indigo, cotton, tropical fruits of every description, -and almost every kind of edible root and vegetable. The forests -contained woods of the most valuable character, and the region in -question also possessed great mineral wealth. The Fathers, having -established themselves in their conceded territory, forthwith set about -devising schemes for its population by civilised, or, at least, -subjected Indians. The means adopted were characteristic. Azara -describes the ingenious, if not very ingenuous, system adopted for this -purpose. Having failed in their attempts to subdue the wilder Indian -tribes, the Fathers soon directed their efforts to the reduction of the -Guaranis, who were of a milder and more tractable temperament. By great -industry, and by dint of patience, a small community was formed, over -whom the Jesuits possessed the most entire control, and whose members -were used for the reduction of savages in much the same fashion as the -fowler uses his “call-birds” for the capture of others. The following is -a brief description of the method usually adopted:— - - They sent to a savage community some small presents by two Indians - speaking the same language, and who had been chosen in their oldest - communities. They repeated these embassies and presents at different - times, the messengers always stating that they were sent by a Jesuit - who loved them tenderly, who desired to come and live in their - midst, and to procure for them other objects of greater value, - including herds of cows, in order that they might have food to eat - without exposing themselves to fatigue. The Indians accepted these - offers, and the Jesuit started with what he had promised, - accompanied by a considerable number of Indians selected from - amongst those of their early redacciones. These Indians remained - with the Jesuit, as they were needed to build a house for the curate - and to take care of the cows. These were very soon destroyed, for - the Indians only thought of eating them. The savages asked for more - cows and they were brought by additional Indians chosen like the - first; and the whole of them remained on the spot, under the pretext - of building a church and other edifices, and of cultivating maize, - the yucca root, &c., for the Jesuit and for all the others. Food, - the affability of the priest, the good conduct of the Indians who - had brought the cattle, festivals and music, the absence of every - appearance of subjection, attracted to this settlement all the - savage Indians in the neighbourhood. When the priest saw that his - selected Indians greatly exceeded the savages in numbers, he caused - the latter to be surrounded on a determined day by his people, and - mildly told them, in a few words, that it was not just their - brethren should work for them, that it was therefore necessary they - should cultivate the earth and learn trades, and that the women - should spin. A few appeared dissatisfied, but they perceived the - superiority of the Indians of the curate, and as the latter was - careful to caress some and punish others with moderation, while - exercising a surveillance over all for a time, the new mission was - at length entirely and successfully formed. - -The internal government of the Jesuits was quite as peculiar as the -proceedings by which they widened their influence and brought the -outlaying savage populations under control. From the Indians an -unquestioning and absolute submission was exacted, and the hours and the -nature of their labours were fixed without appeal by their clerical -masters. M. Quentin, in his very interesting work, translated from the -French by Mr. Dunlop, thus depicts the interior life in these -_redaccions_, the name given to their establishments by the Jesuits -themselves:— - - The Indians knew no other authority than that of the Father. The - Father fed and clothed them, and promised the joys of Paradise as - the reward of their submission and assiduity in labour. They lived - in common, they worked in common, they prayed in common, under the - direction of the Father, who was the representative of God. The - Indian laboured, but nothing belonged to him individually; - everything was the property of the whole community. The Father - distributed amongst the different families the things necessary for - their sustenance, and the remainder was carefully stored and guarded - in immense warehouses. The Indians had nothing to do with the - traffic; the Father it was who sold in distant markets the precious - woods cut in the forests, the Paraguayan tea, the tobacco, and the - hides: he it was who brought back fine garments, the most beautiful - of which were given to the most docile and submissive, and returned - with implements of agriculture, looms for the weaving of cotton, and - splendid stuffs for the adornment of the chapel on holidays, when - work was suspended and the bells sent forth jubilant peals. These - days were days of high festival in the redacción. The Fathers of the - neighbouring missions assembled. They invested themselves in copes - resplendent with gold; children, clothed in white robes, carried - censers, which they waved to and fro; and the whole population, in - good order, and to the sound of music, slowly advanced, singing - canticles as they went under the shade of the orange trees which - fringed their path. - -The Indians were, it will be seen, entirely deprived of liberty. They -were not allowed to do anything of their own motion. They could engage -in no private pursuits, and there was, therefore, wanting every stimulus -to individual elevation. A dead level was created, above which none rose -save by grace and selection of the priests themselves. But in return for -their confiscated freedom of action, the Indians were relieved of all -care for the morrow; and otherwise the Jesuit Fathers, it must be -confessed, were at pains to make despotism sweet and not bitter. The -labour tasks imposed were in no sort onerous, and, as Azara remarks, -they were amused “by a great number of balls, fêtes, and tournaments,” -on which occasions the actors were invariably clothed in the most costly -and magnificent vestments to be had in Europe. To the aspiring, -cultured, exalted spirit slavery in a gilded cage would be simply -intolerable; but in the case of the Guarani Indians it was very -different. They were slaves, and they were perfectly contented with -their slavery. - -The Fathers were very careful to prevent their neophytes from acquiring -the Spanish language; only a few, who occupied certain subordinate -offices, were trusted with this knowledge, for the Fathers were well -aware that the only basis on which their system could possibly rest -secure was that of universal ignorance. Every channel of information or -of communication was in consequence rigorously closed and barricaded by -the institution of the most exclusive regulations. Education was summed -up in the oral teaching (they were not taught to read or write) of -certain church prayers and the ten commandments; and the time not -monopolised by labour, or in the childish games provided for their -relaxation, was devoted to exercises of piety and worship according to -the pompous ritual of the Romish Church. - -When, therefore, for reasons and under circumstances which I will not -now stay to particularise, the Jesuits were expelled from the River -Plate, and were compelled to abandon their missions, the pretentious -fabric they had raised, possessing in itself no sustaining power, -collapsed almost immediately. The withdrawal of the Fathers was an -inexorable call to their former disciples to self-thought and -self-action. They were, however, unequal to the demands of the -situation; everything fell into disorder, and “villages in ruins, fields -untilled, yerbales destroyed, at once demonstrate the grandeur and the -fragility of the work undertaken by the learned ambition of the -Jesuits.” But the labours of the Fathers were far from fruitless. They -had sedulously cultivated amongst the Guarani populations of Paraguay -sentiments of obedience and fanaticism, and, incapable of managing their -own affairs, they have always reposed their destinies in the hands of -some authority, invested with the power, as with the title, of _El -Supremo_. - -The history of this people, since the expulsion of the Jesuits, is, -therefore, that of a succession of tyrannies. When all the neighbouring -countries were engaged in a bloody war for the attainment of their -independence no throb for liberty disturbed the popular heart of -Paraguay. The Metropolitan supremacy was exposed to no tumultuous -assault, and was subverted only when its official guardians betrayed -their trust. The nation allowed itself to pass from one master to -another, just like a herd of cattle, without protest and without the -manifestation of any special interest, but to the new authority as to -the old they rendered the same homage of unreasoning and unreflecting -obedience. It is true that some forms of popular ratification were -given, but only given because they were asked. - -I cannot pause to specify the intrigues which resulted in placing -Francia in the seat of power. Suffice it to say that in 1817 this -terrible man caused himself to be proclaimed Supreme and Perpetual -Dictator, and never surely did tyrant exercise absolute rule with a more -ruthless and cruel rigour. Even the humblest ceased to find safety in -their obscurity. For the most trifling reasons men and women were thrown -into prisons and there tortured often to the death. Espionage was -general; mutual confidence was destroyed; the members of society “moved -as in a desert,” scarcely daring to address their dearest friends lest -some thoughtless word might be reported to their detriment. - -Francia lived in the most complete seclusion:— - - He was as unapproachable as a divinity. Hidden in the recesses of - his palace, nobody could penetrate to his presence. He only went out - in the evening, and his progress was marked by a solitude. At the - moment he quitted his palace the clock of the Cathedral sounded, and - all the inhabitants, seized with affright, hastily retreated within - doors. If one of them, by chance too late, was encountered by the - _cortège_ of the Dictator, he cast himself upon his knees, with his - face to the earth, never daring to contemplate the features of _El - Supremo_, and awaiting the chastisement he had incurred in an agony - of fear. Sometimes he was carried to prison; more frequently he was - let off with a few blows with the flat of a sabre, heartily applied - by the soldiers of the escort. - -Under such a Government neither agricultural nor trading industry could -do other than languish, and the country was cut off from all commercial -communication with the outer world. - -The following extract will show how the Dictator was in the habit of -accomplishing his ends:— - - Only a few stuffs and clumsy implements were with difficulty - produced in the country. But, in times of urgent necessity, the - Dictator knew how to improvise workmen and teach them those arts of - which they were ignorant. The means he employed are worthy of - notice. He required belts for his soldiers: no one could make them. - “Having prepared a gallows, he threatened to hang thereon a - shoemaker who had failed to fashion the belts according to his - desire.” By this process blacksmiths were converted into locksmiths, - armourers, and cutlers, shoemakers into saddlers, goldsmiths into - founders, and masons into architects. That their zeal might not be - permitted to cool, he condemned a blacksmith to penal servitude who - had badly constructed the sight-piece of a cannon. Everything was - done by rule. The citizens were divested of all power of initiation. - If they became proprietors, even their goods were subject to the - arbitrary caprices of the Dictator. Under pretext of embellishing - the capital, Francia “pulled down several hundred houses without - compensating the owners, or troubling himself as to their fate or - that of their families. Each was compelled to demolish his own - house, and if he lacked the means, convicts were employed to do the - work, and afterwards carried away what they thought proper.” - -On the 19th of September, 1840, Francia died. But unhappily his death -did not prove the dawn of freedom for the Paraguayans. After a brief -interregnum Don Carlos Lopez, a lawyer, finally took up the sceptre of -his terrible predecessor, and wielded it with a hand equally relentless. -He professed, it is true, to rule in conformity with the constitution of -1844, if this name can be given to an act which merely legalised -despotism; but if any difference existed between the position of Lopez -and Francia, it was simply that the iron rod of the latter was gilded -and painted in the grasp of the former. - -Without repudiating the exclusive policy of Francia, Lopez the elder -permitted some partial commerce with foreign nations. But this licence -was hampered by the most absurd restrictions, and he continued to -exhibit the greatest dislike for foreigners, upon whom extreme -barbarities were inflicted. If the isolation of the state was a little -relaxed it was because the “trading” interests of the Dictator would -else have suffered:— - - The modifications effected in the commercial and economic system - were of such a nature as to secure for the State a monopoly in the - majority of mercantile transactions. Paraguay was and is a great - firm under the management of the President. Lopez authorised the - people to work in the yerbales, but it was necessary to ask and - obtain a licence. The yerba thus produced was purchased by the - State, which exported it on its own account. The Government paid for - it five piastres per arroba, and resold it for fifteen in the - interior, and for so much as forty piastres to export. In - consequence of the monopoly in the sale of this important product, - an exorbitant price was maintained, which enabled the Brazilians to - give a great development to its production in the province of - Parana. The yerba there grown, though of inferior quality, - nevertheless found an immense consumption in the Plate, on account - of its more moderate price. The utilisation of the forests of - Paraguay was also permitted; but the State imposed a duty of 20 per - cent.; and as the value was fixed by itself, this pretended liberty - of commerce in timber was simply a device to extort money, and ruin - the individuals who might engage in it. - - With regard to the raising of cattle and the commerce in hides, the - State possessed farms and tanneries, and did not allow private - persons to offer any serious competition. The State could, in - addition, command labourers without payment; for the citizens were - still subject, as under the colonial administration, to be pressed - into the public service. At every requisition of authority they are - bound to work without receiving either reward or nourishment; and it - was by means of these _auxilios_ that roads have been made and - repaired, churches built, and both the fortress of Humaita and the - arsenal of Villa Rica erected. The _Guardias Auxiliares_—to-day - soldiers, to-morrow labourers—are employed in the cultivation of the - lands of the State. These soldiers carry the posts, gather the maté - harvest, and fell timber; but receive no remuneration, being only - fed like the rest of the army. These labourers cost so little, that, - thanks to them, the State defies all private competition in the - produce of its yerbales, forests, and farms. - -One thing Don Carlos Lopez did not leave out of sight. He felt his -Government was an anomaly and a menace to civilisation and political -freedom in the surrounding States, and any day even his so patient -subjects might find their bonds too galling for longer endurance. He, -therefore, developed the military strength of the Dictatorship, and -raised the fortress of Humaita on the banks of the Paraguay in such a -position as to render the country all but impregnable to external -assault. - -At the end of a long reign Lopez I. died, and his dominion went by -testament to his son,—Don Francisco Solano—as Vice-President. M. Quentin -gives the following account of the proceedings adopted by the present -ruler of Paraguay to secure the position he has used to bring ruin upon -his unfortunate country:— - - Don Carlos Antonio Lopez died on the 10th of September, 1862. On the - very same day Don Francisco Solano Lopez assembled the bishop, the - supreme judge, and the principal functionaries, and in their - presence opened the sealed envelope which contained the testament of - his father. In virtue of the law of 1856 Don Francisco Solano Lopez - was designated Vice-President, and in that capacity he convoked the - Extraordinary Congress. - - As under such circumstances it is well to neglect nothing, young - Lopez prudently confided the command of the army to his brother, and - one of his uncles was already at the head of the clergy. Thus all - the avenues to power were guarded. - - The Congress assembled under the presidency of Don Solano Lopez. - The result of the vote was certain. Every precaution had been - well taken. They were about to proceed to the ballot, when a - deputy, named Varela, commenced speaking. He began by eulogising - General Lopez, and assuring him of his personal esteem and - sympathy, reminded Congress of the express terms of the Act of - Independence—Paraguay shall never become the patrimony of a - family, and concluded with these words:—“I have the most - profound respect for General Lopez, but I have sworn to obey the - laws of my country. I hesitate between my affection and my - conscience.” The moment was a critical one. An unexpected - opposition manifested itself, and drew its force from the law, - for the first time invoked in the heart of a Congress. Lopez - tremblingly witnessed this episode, but retained his coolness - and self-possession. He made a sign to Father Roman, the Bishop - of Asuncion, who of right formed part of the Congress. The - prelate approached Varela, who humbly fell on his knees in the - midst of the assembly, and the bishop, placing his hands upon - his head, said with a loud voice—“_Ego te absolvo_; thou art - released from thy oath; this is not the case for its observance - (_no es este el caso de observarlo_).” Varela rose with delight, - and cried, “Then I will be the first to give my vote to his - Excellency General Lopez!” It need not be stated that the - President obtained unanimity, and that the people welcomed his - new master with transport. The Lopez dynasty was founded. - -Lopez II., thus firmly seated in his place of supremacy, adhered to the -traditions of his father. His government has been equally despotic, and -the same policy of isolation and monopoly has been persistently -observed. Public opinion has no existence, and the only paper published -in Paraguay is the official organ, edited by the Dictator himself. The -commerce and industry of the people—their toil, their means, their -blood—are at the uncontrolled disposal of their tyrant. And how this -authority has been exercised we all know. Inflamed by ambition, and -desirous to extend his power beyond the limits of Paraguay, the greater -part of his reign—I use the word advisedly—has been devoted to the -steady accumulation of military and naval stores, the organisation of an -army out of all proportion to the number of inhabitants, and the -erection of strong fortresses on the riverine passages to the interior. -For what purpose? Let his acts of gratuitous invasion tell; let the -story of the present war with Brazil and her allies testify. I have -already placed the facts with respect to this struggle before my -readers, and I feel sure they will concur with me that the real object -of Lopez was to bring the whole of the River Plate under the terror of a -Guarani-Indian subjection. Happily this calamity has not occurred, but -it has only been avoided by a prodigious outflow of blood and treasure. - - - - - BRAZILIAN CURRENCY. - - -Like most new countries achieving their independence and establishing -constitutional government under circumstances of difficulty, internal -and external, Brazil has been subject to vicissitudes in her monetary -circulation, and has been affected by occasional aberrations from the -great truths of economical science in the emission of paper money. The -law of 1866 has, however, corrected the errors previously committed, and -when the restoration of peace shall afford the present President of the -Council and Minister of Finance, who, when holding the same offices in -1853, evinced both the capacity and determination to place the financial -condition of the Empire on a sound foundation, the Viscount Itaborahy -will, no doubt, achieve for his country even a greater financial reform -than that which secured for him in Brazil a reputation not dissimilar -from that of Sir Robert Peel in England. - -The Brazilian standard of value is the gold oitava of 22 carats, of the -value of four milreis, the par value of each milreis being by law 27d. -sterling. The ancient mercantile par of the exchange of the milreis was -in sterling 60d. After the arrival of King Dom Joao VI. in Brazil the -exchange on England gradually rose, until in 1814 it reached 96d. This -rise was owing to the increase of its commerce, consequent to the freer -commercial legislation which was then first introduced and to the -depreciation of English irredeemable paper money consequent on Mr. -Pitt's Bank Restriction Act. The war which the Argentines plunged the -Empire into immediately after their independence to deprive it of its -Cis-Platine province produced, however, great financial embarrassments, -and they were increased by the mismanagement of the paper circulation by -the then Bank of Brazil, which King Dom Joao VI. had founded, by -attempts at revolution in the northern provinces, by the intervention of -the Emperor Dom Pedro I. in the affairs of Portugal, by his abdication -of the Brazilian crown in 1831, and by serious and prolonged domestic -troubles. The consequence was in 1833 the reduction of the ancient par -to 43⅕d. the milreis. From 1831 to 1840 distracted regencies governed -Brazil. During one of the regencies a civil war broke out in the great -province of the Rio Grande do Sul, which only terminated in 1845, thanks -then to the efforts and capacity of Count (now Marquis) de Caxias, who -is at this hour as heroically fighting, in his old age, the battles of -Brazil in Paraguay with equal success. Then followed other provincial -and political difficulties of less importance, but all reacting on the -financial position of the Empire. So that again in 1846 the par of the -milreis had to be lowered to 27d., at which it has since been preserved. -And it is to the credit of the Empire, its Government, Legislature, and -people, that subsequently, neither the great financial and banking -crisis of 1864, nor the pressure of the war with Paraguay, which has -continued from 1865 to the present time, has produced any propositions -for its further reduction. The maintenance of the par of the milreis at -27d. is now the established fundamental policy of Brazil. This policy is -made especially and emphatically manifest in the financial measures of -Viscount Itaborahy, who is once more Prime Minister and Finance Minister -of the Empire, with the prospect, it may be hoped, of as long an -administration as that which distinguished his Government from 1848 to -1853, during which period he governed so greatly to the advantage of the -nation, terminating the slave trade, and introducing a financial system, -the departure from and disregard of which in 1857 undid the good which -he then accomplished. - -The free trade legislation of England in 1845 opened the consumption of -this country to Brazilian sugar, one of the great productions of Brazil, -and the Revolution of 1848 in France was followed by the partial -admission to France of Brazilian coffee, then the largest item of the -agriculture of the Empire. Under these influences an immense impetus was -given to the productive capacity of Brazil. The firm and enlightened -Government of Viscount Itaborahy gave the Empire concurrently a period -of domestic repose, of which the planters made the most. Political -passions subsiding agriculture made huge strides. The termination of the -African slave trade gradually relieving agriculture from debts and -embarrassments, introduced better systems of cultivation, largely -increased production, augmented commerce, released for better purposes a -great amount of capital engaged in that abominable traffic, stimulated -honest improvements of every sort and kind, and the exchange on England -rose to 28¼d. the milreis. At this time Treasury notes were the only -paper money in circulation, and their amount was so insufficient for -business purposes that coin became more abundant than paper money, to -the inconvenience of trade and society in so vast an empire. - -The necessity of a convertible paper money became apparent and it was -generally demanded. The result was the enactment, on the proposition of -Viscount Itaborahy, of the law of the 5th of July, 1853. Under it the -Bank of Brazil was established as a bank of issue to a limited extent; -other banks were merged in that great institution; branches of it were -established in the larger provinces, with similarly restricted powers of -issue in circumjacent districts; the privilege of issue was confined to -this one establishment, and Brazil was provided, as England now is, with -one great bank issuing convertible paper in connection with, yet to a -large extent independent of, the State, and the Executive Government had -virtually no authority or power to found other banks of issue. Thus -unity of banking was established so far as paper money was concerned, -and to the immense advantage of the country. An easy, cheap, and -convenient paper currency was provided, always convertible into coin, -yet preferable for the ordinary purposes of life to coin; and the -provinces and the metropolis were equally well supplied with this -currency. The consequences were still further progress in the Empire, -the Treasury was relieved from the trouble of regulating the currency, -the revenue and trade increased, and an impetus was given to activity -throughout the Empire. For all this Brazil had to thank the good sense -and statesmanship of Viscount Itaborahy. - -The Viscount's Cabinet terminated in 1853 in the midst of the -improvement it had created. The progress thus produced by wise and -scientific legislation unfortunately rendered a powerful section of the -country impatient for further progress and misled succeeding Governments -into a policy of a very different kind, whence mainly have flowed the -subsequent financial misfortunes of the country. From the substantial -but slow benefits of sound legislation, Senhor Souza Franco, a successor -of Viscount Itaborahy in the Ministry of the Treasury, was led into the -evils of unsound banking. He became enamoured of the then American -system of free banking, as it was termed, and in 1857, misinterpreting -the real meaning of the law of 1853, established plurality of banks of -emission. Banking societies were then empowered to issue their own notes -convertible by law, it is true, on presentation into coin, but without -any corresponding security wherewith to furnish gold for their payment -on presentation. The Government sanctioned no fewer than six banks of -emission, two in Rio de Janeiro and four in the provinces, and assigned -to each districts within which the right of paper issue might by means -of branches be further extended. In the same spirit the Government -sanctioned the establishment of joint stock companies and anonymous -societies for all kinds of purposes throughout the Empire. The right -thus assumed by Government was superabundantly exercised. Speculation -spread apace in all directions, and fictitious prosperity for a moment -took the place of real progress; shares and pecuniary responsibility, -far beyond the means of those who assumed them, became the order of the -day; long credit and increased discount aggravated the evil; gold began -to leave the Empire rapidly, the rate of exchange to fall heavily, and -in 1859 pecuniary anarchy was the consequence of this policy. - -Senhor Souza Franco had to retreat before this result, and he was -succeeded by Senhor Torres Homem, who soon found in the Chambers a -spirit opposed to those wiser measures he recommended which he was -unable to overcome during his short tenure of office. Then came Senhor -Ferraz at the Treasury; he was more fortunate in remedying the mischief -thus caused. The Empire and the General Assembly had recovered from -their delusions. So, on 22nd August, 1860, a new law of banking, &c., -was enacted. Its principles were the resumption of cash payments by the -banks of emission and the withdrawal of all power from the Executive -Government to sanction powers of emission or of anonymous societies, -reserving such power for the Imperial Legislature. By this law the Bank -of Brazil was prohibited from further emission until it had resumed -payment of its notes in gold, the power of emission was reduced and -fixed, and no banks can now be established except by legislative -authority. - -Immense as was the mischief caused by the measures of 1857, the law of -1860 to a considerable extent corrected it. The two banks of emission at -Rio de Janeiro resigned the privileges they had acquired; within two -years the Bank of Brazil resumed payment of its notes in cash; the Bank -of Pernambuco withdrew its notes from circulation; and the currency of -the Empire had undergone substantial improvement when—in September, -1864, suddenly a great “crisis” burst on Rio de Janeiro, immediately the -consequence of adverse European influences, but substantially the result -of unscrupulous and indefensible mismanagement of discount and private -bankers in that capital. - -Their establishments were in the enjoyment of great credit. Their chiefs -were men of mercantile activity and public spirit, living _en evidence_, -pushing business, giving facilities to everybody, and dealing with money -as if possessed of boundless capital of their own. Their means for this -pecuniary profusion was, however, chiefly derived from money deposited -with them, for longer or shorter periods, or “at call,” sometimes in -large, but more frequently in small sums, on which they allowed interest -of, say, 8 per cent. Thus they became possessed of a greater part of the -floating and uninvested capital of Rio de Janeiro. Receiving money in -this way freely and largely, from the poorer public chiefly, it was the -duty of these bankers to place it out at higher rates of interest, but -on ample security always, and easily convertible into cash. By such -business they would have reaped substantial profits for themselves, have -assisted honest commerce, and have provided effectually for their -depositors. A run upon one of these houses in September, 1864, after the -arrival of bad financial news from Europe, resulted in its closing its -doors on its depositors. This stoppage alarmed the creditors of the -other houses, and they followed suit by demanding back their deposits. -With the same effect—the closing of doors and stoppage—until five of -these bankers suspended payment with deposits of £5,655,000. - -Investigation into their affairs showed how reckless had been their -management, how disregardful of every rule of deposit banking. The funds -entrusted to them had been invested in houses, advanced on mortgages, -lent to planters on bills renewable; and thus Rio de Janeiro was by -their misconduct involved in unexpected ruin. The Government had to -interfere with the payment of bills of exchange, to direct the -administration of their insolvent estates. The Bank of Brazil was -involved in large advances to these houses and unable to assist the -community at the moment when assistance was most needed. The consequence -was a suspension of its cash payments. - -This crisis once more raised the question of the currency and of -banking, and led, after a prolonged discussion, to further legislation -in 1866. - -By the beginning of 1865 the paper circulation of the Empire reached the -enormous sum in sterling of £11,025,000, of which, however, only -£3,150,000 were notes of the Government having general circulation -throughout the country. For the balance of £7,785,000, the circulation -of which was limited to defined districts in which the issuing banks -were situated, the public, had no adequate security. The natural -consequence was disarrangement in the internal exchanges and general -disturbance of the money market. To remedy it Government proposed a -radical reform of the Bank of Brazil, and its separation in two -departments,—one of issue, the other of banking. The discussions on this -question continued through the legislative sessions of 1865 and 1866. -And during these discussions the adverse situation was illustrated by -further decline in the foreign exchanges and the augmentation of the -non-Government paper in circulation to £9,225,000, to which it had -swollen in May, 1866. - -In the session of that year the difficulties of this state of affairs -were brought under the consideration of a Committee of the Senate, of -which Viscount Itaborahy was the most eminent member, and to which a -remedial measure of a radical character was referred for examination. -The result of its deliberations was the expression of an opinion that -the Bank of Brazil, having in two years doubled its circulation, could -no longer accomplish the essential objects of its existence. Thus -sentence of death was passed on that institution by the statesman who -had formed it, and legislation became inevitable after such a -condemnation. - -Accordingly, on the 12th of September, 1866, a measure became law which -enabled the Government to abolish the contract under which the Bank of -Brazil existed. The principal provisions of this law were: 1. The -cessation of the bank's privilege of emission. 2. The division of the -bank into two departments—one for banking purposes only, the other for -mortgage loans, in order to effect a gradual liquidation of the -securities given by the agricultural classes, and so to form the -commencement of the operations of the law of September, 1864. 3. The -sale of the bank's stock of bullion, which amounted to £2,925,000 and -the application of the proceeds to a proportionate withdrawal of its -notes from circulation. 4. The annual contraction of its remaining paper -circulation. 5. The payment to the bank for the State notes it used in -accordance with its primitive contract, in withdrawing from circulation -about £1,237,500, by the substitution of bank notes by State notes, and -the discharge of an insignificant amount of treasury bonds cashed by the -bank. 6. The issue in payment of floating debt, and those treasury bonds -of State notes, to the amount of notes withdrawn by the bank. - -Thus the Government were supplied with coin for remittances to the army -and navy engaged with war in Paraguay, and the Bank of Brazil was -reduced to a mercantile association. So it now remains, only a small and -scarce portion of its notes having a forced circulation, and that small -portion is being greatly reduced. - -Thus, too, the exclusive functions of providing for the circulating -medium were restored to the State, instead of being confided to a bank -on which were at times painfully and mischievously exercised the -exigencies of internal credit, and the reaction in Brazil of those -crises in Europe and the United States, that affected the Brazilian -Empire while its currency was in so unsound a condition with great -violence. - -In 1867, the increasing pecuniary requirements of the war compelled the -General Assembly to vote the Government a credit of fifty thousand -contos (£5,625,000) which have in great part been used by the -Government. But, inserted in the law which authorised the issue, is a -provision that on the termination of the war, the legislature will fix -in the budget of each year the necessary amount to be applied to the -withdrawal of this addition to the State notes. - -It was not, however, only by further emissions of State notes that the -General Assembly in 1867 made provision for the extraordinary -expenditure of the Government. In that session old taxes were increased, -new sources of taxation opened up, and the whole system of taxation was -re-organised in a more rational and scientific way, greatly to the -increase of the general revenue of the Empire. So much so that in the -session of 1868 the budget for 1869-70 showed under the influence of -greatly enlarged receipts, and of economies effected in the various -departments of the State, an important surplus. - -And while thus placing the paper circulation on the more solid basis of -national security, important reforms were effected in the same session -of 1867 in the coinage of the Empire. - -Owing to the fineness of the silver coinage a fall in the foreign -exchanges was immediately followed by the exportation of silver from -Brazil to the great inconvenience of petty commerce. So in September, -1867, for the silver coinage of Brazil was adopted, in respect of the -coins of two milreis (4s. 6d.) and milreis (2s. 3d.) the fineness and -weight introduced by the International Convention between France and -other countries. And the Government substituted for the old copper -coinage bronze pieces of twenty reis (½d.) and ten reis (¼d.) of a -similar alloy to that of our present bronze coinage—viz., ninety-five -parts of copper, four of tin, and one of zinc. So that the Brazilian -coinage consists of gold pieces (of twenty and ten milreis of 917 -milliomes,) legal tender for any amount—that is, of 27d. per milreis, -and of these silver and copper pieces for tokens. In addition, English -sovereigns and half-sovereigns are also legal tenders for any amount in -Brazil. - -On the change of Ministry in July, 1868, which led to the formation of -the Cabinet over which Viscount Itaborahy now presides, the Chamber of -Deputies, by an unexpected and sudden combination of forces previously -adverse to each other, came to a resolution which left the newly formed -Cabinet no alternative but an appeal at once to the nation, and that -without the Chamber making full financial provision for the conduct of -the war. Left in this position by no fault of its own, the Cabinet in -September, 1868, had no alternative but the adoption of financial -operations on its own responsibility. But they have fortunately met with -the full approval of the country, and will, no doubt, be sanctioned by -the result of the now impending general election of deputies. - -These measures were of an alternative character. First of all they -consisted of a decree authorising a further issue of State notes to the -amount of 40,000 contos, viz., £4,500,000. But this decree was followed -by another empowering the Treasury to raise a domestic gold loan of -30,000 contos, £3,335,000. The former decree was, however, only intended -to support the credit of the Government, in the event of the failure of -the loan authorised by the latter decree, and as it has been successful, -a further issue of State notes will, it may be anticipated, be averted -to any considerable amount. - -In explanation of these measures it is necessary to state that the -pressure of the war expenditure going on since April, 1865, had led, -under the previous Cabinet of Senhor Zacharias, to the creation of a -large floating debt, represented by Treasury Bonds, issued for various -short periods. There is always in Rio de Janeiro a large amount of -loanable capital seeking interest on temporary investment, which it had -found previously to the crisis of 1864 in the deposits of private -bankers' establishments. This loanable capital deprived of such resource -after the crisis of that year found better and safe temporary shelter in -Treasury Bonds. And obtaining money in this way to carry on the war, the -preceding Cabinet was able to avoid new permanent operations for -supplying the means for its necessities. The wants of the Government so -supplied, however, deprived commerce of part of its legitimate supplies -of money and made the situation of the Treasury precarious and -hazardous. The extent, too, of temporary resources of this kind had -obviously reached their limit. It was, therefore, partly to extinguish a -large amount of this floating debt, and so to relieve the Treasury from -any embarrassment that might arise from failure in the renewal of -Treasury Bonds when at maturity, and partly to provide for the -exigencies of the war, that the Government in September, 1868, resorted -to the internal loan of 30,000 contos, £3,335,000, issued at ninety -percent., in bonds bearing six per cent. interest payable in gold, -redeemable in thirty-three years by purchase when under par, and drawing -when at or above par, in which last case payment to be made in gold. -This loan was so favourably received that applications for it were -received in Rio only to the extent of 105,000 contos, and it quickly -rose to a premium of seven per cent. - -Again, then, complete success has attended the financial policy of -Viscount Itaborahy, and the Treasury has been provided with the means of -discharging a large amount of floating debt and of prosecuting the war. - -In spite of the provisions adopted by the legislation, and of the -concurrent necessary activity of Brazilian commerce, the exchanges in -London after the crisis of 1864, though high in reference to the over -issue of inconvertible paper, had fallen, and in February, 1868, -declined, as if in panic, to 14d. This fall was partly due to the -remittances to England of bills for purchasing gold and honouring the -Government commitments on this side, and still more to the large orders -from the Plate for operations in exchange, and purchases of bullion here -caused by the financial crisis of Monte Video. - -This decline in the rate of exchange on London was, however, brief. -Thanks principally to the financial measures just described, and to the -improving prospects of the war, the rate has again risen, and is still -rising. - -Such, in necessarily brief and rough outlines, is the history of the -circulating medium of the Brazilian Empire. - -Everything, it will be seen, conduces to the conviction that with the -close of the war and expenditure there will be a certainty of -maintaining the standard of 1846, so solemnly reproduced in the laws of -1853, 1860, and 1867, and in the internal loan of 1868, and that the -foreign exchange will once more rise, in the interests of commerce and -of all domestic industries to above the legal level so fixed in 1846. -When this has been accomplished it will be recognised, and be due to an -intelligent and prudent administration of the finances, to the -prodigious development of the external commerce and to the inexhaustible -resources of the great American monarchy.[8] - ------ - -Footnote 8: - - In the preparation of this chapter we are indebted to several - important and valuable Brazilian works—“Systema Financial do Brazil,” - by Conselheiro C. B. de Oliveira; the Report on the Circulating Medium - of the Empire, made in 1859-60, by a Commission presided over by - Conselheiro Almeida Areas, now Brazilian Minister in London; the - Report on the Crisis of 1864, by a Commission presided over by the - late Conselheiro Silva Ferraz (Baron de Uruguayana); the _Relatorios_, - from 1865 downwards, of the Ministers of Finance, and the Annals of - the Senate and Chamber of Deputies for the same period. - - - - - ARGENTINE FINANCES. - - -A notice of this extensive and rising country would be incomplete -without some allusion to its financial condition, and in order to -illustrate this more clearly I must revert to the year 1824, when the -first loan of a million sterling was raised in London, to assist the -young republic in meeting the expenses incurred during the War of -Independence. That the money thus obtained was more or less squandered, -and did not find its way into legitimate channels, is probable enough; -nevertheless the liability was always admitted by the existing -Governments, although interest had ceased to be paid on the loan for -upwards of twenty years and the original stock was almost worthless. - -At the period I allude to the revenue and resources of the country were -small, and during the reign of Rozas they were entirely under his -private direction, and the national means spent according to his will. -In fact, what is now known as the Argentine Republic had no existence -until after the downfall of Rozas in 1852, Buenos Ayres up to that -period exercising sovereign control. A heavy internal debt, represented -by paper money, had also generally reduced the value of the dollar -(originally worth about four shillings) to two pence, and there appeared -little chance of the English bondholders ever obtaining again the money -lent in 1824, through the agency of Messrs. Baring Brothers and Co. - -But on the downfall of Rozas, a new era dawned upon the republic. Many -illustrious citizens, who had been obliged to expatriate themselves in -order to save their lives, returned to Buenos Ayres, and the principles -of constitutional government were again infused into the body politic, -subject, however, to many vicissitudes, which, for a time, retarded -internal progress, and prevented the real resources of the country from -being profitably utilised. So soon as these difficulties were overcome -the question of its indebtedness forced itself upon the Executive and -Legislative powers, who wisely decided that their first great financial -effort should be to come to some understanding with their English -creditors. - -At the same time a movement was set on foot by the bondholders -themselves, and a Committee was formed in London, under the auspices of -Messrs. Baring Brothers and Co., comprising some of the largest -bondholders. Negotiations were entered into with the Buenos Ayres -Government, who evinced every disposition to meet the matter fairly; and -eventually, in the year 1857, an arrangement was come to by which the -original debt in full, with its accumulated interest, was consolidated, -and interest agreed to be paid thereon; and this arrangement has been -most faithfully adhered to up to the present hour. The decree in which -this honourable recognition of a great principle is contained is dated -the 12th December, 1857, and is signed by the Governor Filipe Llavallol -and Norberto de la Riestra the then Minister of Finance. I insert a copy -of the document itself:— - - MINISTRY OF FINANCE. - - Buenos Ayres, Nov. 20th, 1857. - - The Government of the State of Buenos Ayres, in virtue of the - authorisation conferred upon it by the law of the 28th of October - last, has made the following arrangement with Mr. George E. White, - representative of Messrs. Baring Brothers and Co., agents of the - loan contracted in London in 1824 for settlement of the said debt, - viz.:— - - Art. 1st.—To meet the payment of the interest upon the original - bonds the Government of Buenos Ayres engages to remit to the Loan in - London in - - 1857 the sum of £36,000 - 1858 48,000 - 1859 60,000 - - And from and after 1860, inclusive, besides the above-mentioned sum - of £60,000, it will also remit annually the sum of £5,000 as a - redemption fund. This sum, together with the interest of the shares - redeemed, or that may be redeemed, shall be employed, one half each - six months, in the purchase or redemption of the new bonds of this - class till the whole of them have been redeemed. The funds - corresponding to the stipulated remittances shall be placed in - London, one half before the 30th of June, and the other half before - the 31st of December in each year. - - Art. 2nd.—The sums appropriated to the redemption shall be employed - by the agents of the London Loan in the purchase of bonds in the - market at the current price so long as that is less than par; but - should the price of the bonds exceed par, the funds to be redeemed - by the redemption fund shall be determined by lot, in presence of - the principal agent or representative of the State of Buenos Ayres - existing in London. - - The bonds drawn by lot shall be published in the _Gazette_, or two - of the London journals, stating the day on which payment will be - made at par, and from which date they will cease to bear interest. - - The bonds purchased or redeemed by the redemption fund, with their - corresponding future dividends of interest, shall be cancelled in - presence of the principal agent or representative of the State of - Buenos Ayres in London, and immediately deposited in the Bank of - England, publishing their numbers in the _Gazette_, or in two of the - principal London journals. - - Art. 3rd.—The holders of the original bonds shall receive a new list - of debentures for their future dividends, with a copy annexed to it - of the two preceding articles, beginning with the debenture for the - dividend that falls due on the 12th of January, 1861. - - Art. 4th.—For the interest due upon the original bonds up to this - date, and for those that fall due to the end of 1858, amounting to - the sum of £1,641,000, the Government of Buenos Ayres shall emit new - bonds to bear interest at the following rates, viz:— - - Art. 5th.—From 1861 to 1865 inclusive, one per cent. per annum. From - 1866 to 1870 inclusive, two per cent., and from and after 1871, - three per cent. The first half-yearly dividend upon these new bonds - shall fall due on the 12th July, 1871, and subsequently on the 12th - January and 12th July of each year, on which days the half-yearly - instalments or dividends due shall be paid in London. All the - guarantees accorded to the original bonds shall be extensive to - these new bonds. - - Art. 6th.—The Government of Buenos Ayres engages to remit to the - agents of the loan in London the funds necessary for meeting the - payment of the interest assigned to these new bonds, and moreover, - from and after 1871, the sum of £8,205, or, say the 200th part of - the total amount of the said bonds, as a redemption fund for them. - This sum together with the interest of the bonds that have been - redeemed shall be employed in equal proportion every six months in - the purchase or redemption of these new bonds, till the whole of - them have been redeemed. Accordingly the sums that must be remitted - to meet the interest and redemption fund shall be as follows, viz., - from 1861 to 1865 inclusive, £24,615, annually; from 1866 to 1870 - inclusive, £41,025; and from and after 1871, the sum of £47,435; the - Government engaging to place these funds in London, one-half before - the 30th June, and the other half before the 31st December of each - year. The Government reserves to itself the right of employing in - the redemption of these new bonds, over and above the sum - stipulated, any further sums the Legislature may appropriate to this - purpose. - - Art. 7th.—The sums applicable to the redemption fund, as also the - others that may be destined to this purpose, shall be employed by - the agents of the loan in London, to the purchase of these new bonds - in the market, at the current price, always that this is less than - par; but in case the price of these bonds should come to exceed par, - the bonds that are to be redeemed shall be determined by lot, and - those that are drawn by lot, as also those purchased in the market - shall be published in the journals, paid and cancelled on the - respective debentures in the manner and form established in the - second Article in respect to the six per cent. bonds. - - Art. 8th.—The new bonds shall be denominated Three Per Cent. Buenos - Ayrean Bonds, shall be signed in the name of the State, by the - Minister of Finance in Buenos Ayres, and shall be emitted through - the medium of Messrs. Baring Brothers and Co., of London, by whom - they shall be countersigned. - - Art. 9th.—The payments stipulated in the present convention are - specially assigned upon the products of the rents of the public - lands of the State, excepting those belonging to the Municipalities, - and in case of deficiency this shall be made up from the general - rents of the State, or from the special resources created by the - Legislature for the purpose. - -The conduct of Buenos Ayres statesmen in respect to the obligations -referred to was fully appreciated in this country, and the bonds -gradually rose up to par value, holding even during the great monetary -crisis a good position; nor must it be lost sight of that, although the -original debt was incurred for the benefit of the entire Confederation, -yet the Province of Buenos Ayres alone took upon itself the sole -responsibility; and, up to the present confederation with the other -Argentine provinces, always paid the interest out of its provincial -resources. - -Subsequent to the settlement of the English debt, what is known as the -National Government was formed, and the internal debt of the entire -provinces has been consolidated into a national stock, bearing interest -at 6 per cent., which is punctually paid, and the stock, from being -worth 30 to 40 a few years back, has latterly risen to 55, subject, of -course, to fluctuations generally caused by speculation on the Bolsa of -Buenos Ayres, where, for a long period, gambling in paper money was the -chief business, until a wise measure of Governor Alsina, in establishing -an Exchange Office, and fixing a paper value for gold, put a stop to -this element of financial and social disturbance. - -As already mentioned, there is a provincial revenue and a national -revenue, as well as expenditure; that of Buenos Ayres being the most -important, from its great commercial wealth. Until recently, the only -bonds known here were those of Buenos Ayres. Now we have what are called -Argentine bonds, lately issued on the security of the National -Government; and in order to show the nature of this latter security, as -well as the progressive state of the national revenue, I cannot do -better than quote the following figures, issued by their able -representative Minister, his Excellency Don Norberto de la Riestra, in a -circular dated 1st June last, at the time he was negotiating this -important transaction:— - - In 1864 the General National Revenue $7,005,328 or £1,401,065 - amounted to - - In 1865 it reached 8,295,071 or 1,659,014 - - In 1866 9,568,554 or 1,913,711 - - In 1867 the yield is estimated at 2,600,000 - - it having produced in the first eight months of the year $8,981,430. - - The Revenue estimates for 1868 amount to 2,647,200 - - as follows:— - - Ordinary Import Duties $7,650,000 - - Ordinary Export Duties 2,070,000 - - Storage Dues 350,000 - - Stamps 160,000 - - Post Office and Miscellaneous 206,000 - - ——————————— - - $10,436,000 - - Additional Customs' Duties 2,800,000 - - ——————————— - - $13,236,000 or £2,647,200 - - - The Budget of ordinary expenditure for 1868 £1,581,649 - amounts to - - as follows:— - - Ministry of the Interior $ 901,079 - Ministry of Foreign Affairs 99,538 - Ministry of Finance 729,491 - Ministry of Justice, &c. 487,940 - Ministry of War and Marine 3,116,593 - Service of Public Debt 2,573,626 - —————————— - $7,908,267 or £1,581,649. - - The surplus revenue over ordinary expenditure is applied to defray - the extraordinary war expenses. - - The above revenue is distinct and independent of the private - revenues, both State and Municipal, of the different Provinces of - the Republic, which are raised for local purposes. - - The Public Debt of the Republic at this time is as follows:— - - EXTERNAL.—Old Buenos Ayres Debt (London Loan of 1824) now in charge - of the nation, say:— - - Original Six per Cent. Stock £ 905,800 - Deferred Three per Cent. do. 1,110,900 - Argentine Six per Cent. Loan of 1866 540,000 - —————————— - Total £2,556,700 - - INTERNAL.— - - Consolidated Six per Cent. Argentine Stock $12,839,535 or £2,567,907 - - Buenos Ayres Public Stock (in paper 596,988 - currency) - - Paraná Debt 1858, including Interest 433,309 - - Obligations to Foreign Creditors 18,852 - - Loan from Brazilian Government 1851 228,541 - - Loan from Brazilian Government 1865-66 400,000 - - —————————— - - Total £4,245,597 - - There is besides a floating debt in Treasury Bills to a moderate - amount, which is being rapidly cancelled. - -I think this statement, combined with the facts I have elsewhere given -from personal experience and observation, as to the rapidly extending -commerce of the Argentine Confederation, will fully bear out the -favourable impression that is now gaining ground in England, and in -Europe generally, as to the _bona fide_ security presented by Argentine -bonds; and I must say that, looking back to the conscientious course -pursued by the Government, no country in the world deserves more to -enjoy the confidence of British capitalists. - -It will be seen from Senor Riestra's statement that the only foreign -debt of the Argentine Republic is that due to English bondholders. Her -internal debt is due chiefly to her own citizens, who are safe to be -paid both principal and interest; nor has any act of repudiation, or -compromise ever stained the character of the Argentine people. The -pursuance of this praiseworthy conduct has been followed by the -investment of British capital in promoting railways and other industrial -enterprises. Indeed, look around in whatever direction we may, it is -difficult to find a more pleasing illustration of the maxim, that -“honesty is the best policy,” than that exhibited by the Argentine -Republic. - - - - - TOWN AND HARBOUR OF SANTOS. - - -Before recording the details of my passage home I wish to say a few -words more with regard to the rising port of Santos, a notice of which -has been accidentally omitted in a former part of my work. Its -connection with the San Paulo Railway and the fact of its being the -shipping port of the province renders Santos of much future importance. -The distance from Rio de Janeiro is about 200 miles, and the navigation -is simple enough—in fact, in sight of land the whole way, the sea coast -ridge of mountains being conspicuous. The only danger is from the -Alcatrazes rocks, which lie some distance to the eastward of Santos, and -very ugly customers they are, towering a considerable height above the -sea. Steamers can, however, have no difficulty in avoiding them after -getting hold of the island of San Sebastian, from the point of which the -Santos light becomes visible, and can be seen at a distance of 20 miles, -but coasting craft require to keep a good lookout at night. The light is -placed on an island of some elevation, covered with trees to the summit, -and it has a very picturesque appearance. Rounding a bluff point, you -enter at once what appears to be a river channel, though it is an -estuary, for Santos is really an island. The passage is winding and the -land on each side is covered with shrubby vegetation, the distance up -four miles, with deep water for vessels of 1,000 tons. There are some -scattered houses on the beach, chiefly used by sea-bathing residents, -and on one side is an antiquated looking fort, supposed at one time to -have guarded the entrance of the estuary—a specimen of early Portuguese -defences; and on the island of Santos are the remains of the old town of -San Vincente, the first founded on this part of the coast. The anchorage -opposite the town is convenient and well protected; several wharves -extend out where vessels lie alongside to discharge and load cargo, and -at the Custom House there is an iron pontoon used for the same purpose. -At this wharf the steamer I came down in (1,000 tons burden) received a -full cargo and sailed within three days, a feat without parallel in any -other port in Brazil. - -There is some pretty scenery around Santos—on the coast side a range of -hills, and opposite to the town, across the estuary, rise the bold -mountain ranges covered with verdure. It is a pleasant ride round the -base of the hills on the seaside until you come to the town of San -Vincente. The railway is laid along a swampy marsh, running parallel and -close to the old San Paulo road until it crosses the bridge of Cubitao, -which connects the island and the main land. The town itself is long and -straggling, containing from 8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants, with some fine -warehouses or stores for storing coffee, cotton, or other country -produce previous to shipment. At the extremity of the town is the -railway station, a commodious building, having wharves, alongside of -which vessels can come, and opposite to the station is what looks like a -palace, with two wings and a centre, the outside almost entirely lined -with ornamental blue Lisbon tiles, and the whole bearing an appearance -quite out of keeping with the general features of the place. It is the -costly hobby of an old Portuguese merchant, and intended for his own -residence, but it progresses very slowly towards completion. The streets -are paved with roughish stones, not easy for a novice to walk on, but a -great improvement on the sandy element which formerly characterised -primitive Brazilian streets. The class of buildings is generally solid, -and there are some good, well stocked shops. There is also a theatre on -a very diminutive scale, where I went to see an amusing amateur -performance, but the heat was stifling; nevertheless, it was quite full, -and some well dressed and sprightly young ladies formed part of the -audience, and did not appear to be very much troubled by the not very -aromatic flavour of the atmosphere. It was a relief to get into the -fresh air for a few minutes between the acts. - -Santos is not to be judged by its present status, but by what the -railway must make it; and a few years will produce a very great change, -further accelerated by the introduction of gas, water, and drainage, -which are here much needed, as well as in the City of San Paulo. There -is a specialty about the old Brazilian towns that one cannot help being -struck with, and they present a striking contrast when railway -innovation comes to disturb the slumbrous habits of the people. As a -seaport and a rising town Santos is deserving of this additional notice, -and, I may observe, its close proximity to the sea renders it -exceedingly healthy. - - - - - MR. PERKINS ON EMIGRATION. - - -In the elaborate and interesting report of Mr. William Perkins, who was -at the head of a recent Government expedition to El Rey, an old Spanish -settlement in the Gran Chaco, occurs the following remarks:—“The -northern part of the Province of Santa Fé is justly considered the most -important, being so highly favoured by nature; and in truth the Creator -has here scattered with a prodigal hand all the elements capable of -attracting population and industry. For these reasons it saddens the -heart to see these magnificent lands deserted, teeming as they do with -natural riches. Mighty rivers and streams cross each other in all -directions; first-class timber in the woods to an extent the eye cannot -reach; picturesque meadows of rich pasture,—in a word, whatever can be -desired for agricultural and industrial pursuits.” - -Mr. Perkins has been one of the most active and intelligent agents in -the cause of emigration to the Argentine Republic and so soon as the -land transfers of the Central Argentine Railway are completed the -company intend to send him to the United States and to England for the -purpose of making arrangements, and to bring out people to occupy their -land, a desirable step, which will at once enhance its value and that of -the immense tracts by which it is surrounded. The peculiar feature of -this railway is the territory attached to the concession, namely, a -league on each side of the line, comprising a total of about a million -of acres, one half of which is the property of the contractors, the -other half belonging to the shareholders, who have, besides, the -national guarantee of 7 per cent. on the capital of £1,600,000, which -the railway is to cost, or about £6,500 per mile. It is, perhaps, one of -the easiest railways in the world to make, the chief expense being the -rails and rolling stock, few earthworks or ordinary sleepers being -required. As I have before noticed, there is plenty of wood higher up -the country, about Villa Nueva, where a large quantity of sleepers of -excellent quality were being prepared to complete the line to Cordova. - -In Mr. Perkins' report just alluded to are some very graphic -descriptions of the riverine facilities, at present so little known or -availed of, but it is to be hoped when he revisits those scenes, after -utilising his services at home, he will return to see progress already -made, and some at least of the lands of the Central Argentine Railway -occupied by thriving settlers. It only requires encouragement, and a -beginning to be made, which I believe will not long be delayed. - -The Argentine Government has come forward to assist the Argentine -Railway by an issue of bonds for £300,000, the contractors supplying the -remaining £300,000, which, with £1,000,000 in shares when the company -was formed, completed the capital. The timely assistance thus rendered -by the Government is an earnest of their desire to see this great work -accomplished, in which the welfare of the upper provinces is so deeply -concerned, as there are no navigable rivers running westward to Cordova, -the Parana and the Paraguay tending northward into Paraguay and Matto -Grosso. It follows, as a matter of course, that a large portion of the -produce of these western provinces will find its way to Cordova and to -the railway, amongst them many articles which have never yet been -brought down to Rosario or Buenos Ayres, on account of the great cost of -transit. - -Reverting to Mr. Perkins, his services in the cause of exploration of -the country have been very valuable, and few there are better acquainted -with the facilities it presents for emigration, when once centres of -population are established by this main trunk railway from Rosario to -Cordova. - - - - - MY VOYAGE HOME. - - -My visit has been prolonged by unforeseen events, but I am on my way -home again, on board the steamer City of Buenos Ayres, commanded by my -old friend Captain Peters, also belonging to Tait's Line, which has -experienced some of the incidents and drawbacks peculiar to the -formation of new companies; but from the spirit manifested by that firm, -there is every prospect of the enterprise proving a successful one. The -rapid increase of passenger trade to the River Plate is a notable fact -that has to be provided for, independent of that to Brazil, which -continues to assume larger proportions, and steamers now will get a -preference of freight both ways. Two days after the storm at Buenos -Ayres, to which I have referred in another place, the vessel was enabled -to complete her cargo, and to get under weigh at 9 p.m., on the 19th -June, reaching Monte Video at 11 a.m. on the following day. There was a -fresh breeze blowing, which rendered boating somewhat hazardous, and -prevented our leaving the harbour until 8 a.m. on Sunday, the 21st, when -we steamed down the river, passed Maldonada, and after five days we once -more entered the bay of Rio de Janeiro, where several men-of-war were at -anchor. As we passed the American frigate Guerriere, the band struck up -“God save the Queen,” in compliment to our captain, who was a friend of -the American admiral. Her Majesty's ship Narcissus, with Admiral Ramsay -on board, was also lying in the harbour, with the American steamer -Kersseage, which terminated the career of the world-famed cruiser, -Alabama, in the combat off Cherbourg. - -The weather was beautifully fine, clear, and pleasant at Rio, very -different from that I had experienced a few months previously, and -rendered the two days on shore very agreeable. I had a busy time of it, -seeing and taking leave of old friends, but managed to get through, and -embarked on Sunday afternoon. We sailed down the harbour, again passing -the men-of-war, officers and crews of which were collected on deck, and -returned our salutation. Captain Wilson, flag-captain of the Narcissus, -lunched on board us, with some of the officers, and a number of other -friends of the passengers were on board before we started. We passed the -fort at 5 p.m., when they very politely hoisted the number, “Wish you a -good voyage.” The scenery of the bay looked, if possible, more -magnificent than ever, under the influence of the setting sun, the -outline of mountains being so clearly and vividly portrayed, and few -could leave so grand a scene without a feeling of admiration and regret. -Our passengers were a mixed group (including about a dozen children of -various ages) of different nationalities, English, Scotch, Irish, -Belgian, Dutch, and Germans, so almost all languages were spoken on -board. Some English families were returning from a residence of some -years in the campos of Buenos Ayres, not very well pleased with the -result of their speculation in sheep farming, which has no doubt been a -bad one of late, but I could not find from their report that they had -undergone any particular hardships, besides which they had other reasons -for returning home. As I have before observed, it is a mistake for -people to go out to the River Plate to commence sheep farming under the -idea they can realise a fortune and retire in a few years. They must -make up their minds to rough it, and to persevere as they would have to -do at home in a similar occupation.[9] - -We had favourable weather, and crossed the line on the eighth day after -leaving Rio, expecting to reach St. Vincent, our only place of call -between Rio and Falmouth, on the 10th of July, say thirteen days out, -which is pretty fair work for a steamer with only moderate power, and -carrying a large cargo. We passed many vessels knocking about in what -sailors call the “doldrums”—various winds and calms—which prevail -between the north-east and south-east trades, and amused ourselves with -exchanging signals with several of them, getting their names, -destination, &c. The monotony of a sea voyage is always relieved by -incidents of this kind, and making land, the latter generally creating -much excitement. - -We got into the harbour of St. Vincent about 8 p.m., on the evening of -Saturday, the 11th of July, in time to be visited, and I went on shore -to spend the night with Mr. Miller, at his country place up the -mountains, about two-and-a-half miles distant from the Consulate. It was -dark, of course, but Mr. Miller's son led the way on a pony, and I -followed him on another, the ascent being rather steep as we approached -the house, which is very nicely perched on ground levelled on a spur of -the mountain, and called Areia from the dark brown colour of the hills. -Sleeping at an elevation of 800 feet, was a pleasant change after the -rocking motion and closeness of the steamer's cabin, and on looking out -of my window early next morning there was a charming view of the little -harbour, and the picturesque mountains on all sides of it, wanting only -verdure to constitute an agreeable picture. Everything was burnt up from -the want of rain, which is expected about this time, when I believe the -Island wears quite a cheerful aspect, though for a short time only. -After breakfast, we rode down to the Consulate, where I spent a portion -of the day, instead of being on board during the delightful operation of -coaling, when everything is covered with coal dust. Mr. Miller has a -farm on the other side of the island, where he is cultivating vines, -fruits, and vegetables, having a supply of water on the spot,—the most -difficult of all things to find—and he has by means of a large tank, -brought a supply into the town. - -I have before alluded to the great advantage presented by St. Vincent as -a coaling station, and to the facilities Mr. Miller has provided to -carry it on—which he is continually adding to. A steamer can take on -board 200 to 300 tons of coal in a few hours, and lately the Tamer, on -her way home from the Cape, took in upwards of 600 tons during daylight. -It was Sunday again when we were there (a constant recurrence during the -last six months, when I have been so often in and out of ports); but we -were coaled and all ready to start by 5 p.m. Unfortunately, some little -repairs to the boiler tubes were not completed, and we did not get up -steam until 1 a.m. on Monday morning, thus losing several hours. The -night was fine, and we soon got again into the open sea, on our way to -Falmouth, steaming against a north-east trade. The Zaire, Portuguese -mail steamer from Africa, came into St. Vincent on Sunday for a small -supply of coal, sailing again in a few hours. The only other vessels -were a small paddle wheel steamer, bound to Bahia, intended for the -navigation of the bay, and two vessels discharging coal. At times there -is quite a little fleet there, and a good many steamers are shortly -expected to call with troops on their way back from the Abyssinian -expedition. - -Four days' hard tugging against a strong north-east trade has diminished -our hopes of a tolerably quick passage. During the many passages I have -made I do not recollect such strong trades at this season of the year. -Our progress has, in consequence, been very slow, not averaging more -than 150 miles in the twenty-four hours; and the only amusement, if it -can be called such, is to exchange signals with vessels passing us, -going along with the wind right aft and all sail set. It is steaming -against these north-east trades that generally renders the homeward -passage so much longer than the outward one, unless a steamer has great -power. Still it is an immense stride over the old days of sailing ships, -which generally took fifty or sixty days home from Rio, and often more. -The trim of the vessel being rather too much by the head, some cargo has -been removed from the fore to the after hold, and the top gallant yards -struck, offering less resistance to the wind. - -Two more days of trade winds, dead against us, the time being only -relieved by passing a large number of sailing ships and exchanging -signals with them. It would appear as if they had experienced some -detention in crossing the bay, and that a considerable fleet had reached -the latitude of Madeira in time to avail of the strong north-east trades -between Madeira and St. Vincent. Sunday, 19th July, we passed close to -the Island of Madeira, topped with clouds, preventing our seeing more -than the outline, and the verdure and cultivation lies on the eastern -side; still it is an event that breaks the monotony of a voyage. Before -this day week, if all is well, we hope to reach Falmouth. On Thursday, -23rd July, after three days of almost complete calm, with scarcely a -ripple or movement on the water at times, looking for a favourable -breeze to waft us to Falmouth, this morning our old friend, the -persevering north-easter, came on again, right in the middle of the Bay -of Biscay, and we were compelled to steam head to wind, with a -considerable sea getting up. At this season of the year westerly winds -generally prevail in these latitudes, but we have not met with any, nor -been able to make any use of our canvas from the latitudes of 10° north. -Numerous sailing vessels keep passing us with studding sails set, but -there is no help for it. From this date up to the time of our making -Falmouth on the morning of Sunday, the 26th, it blew almost a gale, with -a nasty rough sea, against which our progress was very slow. We steamed -into the harbour on a miserably cold, wet day, but the fields about -appeared burnt up for want of moisture, and we learnt that the weather -had been exceedingly hot. I did not find the Railway Hotel much improved -as regards board and attendance, which is a great pity, as it is a -spacious, comfortable house, situated in one of the most picturesque -spots in England, and would be very attractive with better management. - ------ - -Footnote 9: - - A life in the camp may not be very agreeable, or such as is - experienced on a farm at home. People have to put up with a good deal - if they wish to better their condition, and remember that it is not - always a matter of choice, but of necessity, which compels them to - seek their fortunes in a foreign country. Those who can live - comfortably or find suitable occupation at home should remain there. - One of the great drawbacks to the success of young Englishmen out in - the camp is, I am sorry to say, the terrible propensity to indulgence - in the free use of ardent spirits, which soon enfeebles their - constitution and often leads to an untimely grave. This a little - self-denial would soon enable them to avoid. Several of these - melancholy instances occurred during my short stay in the country. The - climate itself is sufficiently stimulating without the excitement - arising, from the brandy bottle, the use of which, even in towns and - cities, is often carried to excess. As a rule, the natives are sober, - and set a good example to foreigners in this respect if they would - only profit by it. - - - - - APPENDIX. - - - POSSESSIONS AND PRODUCTS OF THE DIFFERENT PROVINCES OF BRAZIL. - - S. PEDRO DO RIO GRANDE DO SUL (situated between 27° 50´ and 33° 45´ - S. latitude).—Possesses coal mines and other minerals; - herva-matte, natural pasture grounds perfectly appropriate to the - successful breeding of cattle, mules, horses, and sheep. - - Produces wheat, barley, potatoes, grapes, and all the fruits of - temperate climates; cotton, and different grains of tropical - climates. - - SANTA CATHARINA (24° 53´ and 27° 50´ S. latitude).—Possesses coal - mines and a great quantity of iron ores; timber, woods for cabinet - work and dye woods; natural pasture for the breeding of cattle, - mules, horses, and sheep. - - Produces wheat, cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, coffee, and all the - grains of tropical countries. - - PARANA (between 20° and 27° 20´ lat. South).—Possesses diamond and - gold mines; herva-matte in great abundance, natural pastures for - the breeding of cattle, horses, mules, and sheep. - - Produces wheat, oats, barley, hemp, flax, potatoes, grapes, and - nearly all the fruits of temperate climates; cotton, tobacco, - sugar-cane, coffee, and all the grains of tropical climates. - - S. PAULO (between 19° 40´ and 25° 40´ lat. South).—Possesses mines - of iron ore, copper, silver, gold, precious stones, coal; natural - pastures for the breeding of cattle, mules, sheep and swine; woods - of different sorts. - - Produces wheat, flax, grapes, and nearly all the fruits of temperate - climates; tea, coffee, and sugar-cane in great abundance; cotton, - tobacco, and all the grains of tropical countries. - - RIO DE JANEIRO (Capital of the Empire of Brazil, between 21° 25´ and - 23° 25´ lat. South).—Possesses iron mines, clays for china ware - and porcelain; woods and timber of all sorts. - - Produces excellent coffee and sugar-cane, tea, cotton, and all the - grains of the tropics. - - ESPIRITO SANTO (between 18° 50´ and 21° 20´ lat. South).—Possesses - gold, iron, and diamond mines; excellent timber and woods for - cabinet work; breeds cattle. - - Produces coffee, sugar-cane, cotton, and all the grains of the - tropics. - - BAHIA (between 9° 35´ and 18° lat. South).—Possesses rich gold, - diamond, silver, iron, copper, coal, and marble mines; timber and - Brazil wood; breeds cattle. - - Produces sugar-cane, coffee, excellent tobacco, cotton, cocoa, - clove, and all the grains of the tropics. - - SERGIPE (between 10° 30´ and 11° 40´ lat. South).—Possesses gold and - diamond mines; marble, crystals, nitron, nitrates of soda salts; - iron, slate, salines, precious woods and plants, vanilla. - - Produces abundantly sugar-cane, cotton, and all tropical grains. - - ALAGOAS (between 8° 50´ and 10° 80´ lat. South).—Possesses mines of - anthracite, bituminous schist; timber, Brazil wood. - - Produces sugar-cane, tobacco, and all tropical grains. - - PERNAMBUCO (between 7° 10´ and 9° 45´ lat. South).—Possesses - unexplored mines, timber; Brazil wood, breeds excellent cattle. - - Produces very abundantly sugar-cane, cotton, and all tropical - products. - - PARAHYBA (between 6° 15´ and 7° 50´ lat. South).—Possesses gold - mines, iron ores, saltpetre; timber and wood for cabinet work, - Brazil wood; breeds cattle. - - Produces sugar cane, cotton, and all tropical grains. - - RIO GRANDE DO NORTE (between 4° and 6° 10´ lat. South).—Possesses - gold and silver mines, abundant Brazil wood, carnaúba, cochineal; - breeds cattle. - - Produces cotton, sugar-cane, and all tropical grains. - - CEARA (between 2° 45´ and 7° 10´ lat. South),—Possesses mines of - gold, silver, lead, iron, antimonium, amianthus, coal, marble, - nitron, salines; timber, wood for cabinet work and dyeing, - quinine, ipecacuanha, carnaúba; breeds excellent cattle. - - Produces coffee, sugar-cane, cotton. - - PIAUHY (between 2° 40´ and 11° 25´ lat. South).—Breeds much cattle, - horses and mules. - - Produces all tropical fruits. - - MARANHAO (between 1° 10´ and 7° 30´ lat. South).—Possesses gold - mines, splendid timber, and other woods of all sorts; breeds - cattle. - - Produces in great abundance cotton, rice, sugar-cane, and all the - other tropical products. - - PARA (between 4° lat. North and 8° lat. South).—Possesses in great - abundance the indiarubber tree, sarsaparilla, copaiba, vanilla, - clove, vegetable ivory, and rich woods of all sorts; breeds cattle - and turtles. - - Produces cocoa, tobacco, cotton, and sugar-cane. - - AMAZONAS (between 4° lat. and 10° lat. South).—Possesses mines of - crystals, marble, silver; precious woods of all sorts, the - indiarubber tree in great quantity, sarsaparilla, ipecacuanha, - cloves; breeds cattle and turtles. - - Produces in extraordinary abundance all tropical fruits. - - MINAS GERAES (between 14° and 20° lat. South).—Possesses gold mines, - diamonds, precious stones, iron; natural prairies, where much - cattle and swine are bred. - - Produces in abundance cotton, tobacco, coffee, tea, sugar-cane, and - all tropical grains. - - GOYAZ (between 7° and 20° lat. South).—Possesses mines of gold, - iron, diamonds, and crystals; Brazil wood, logwood, and many - medicinal plants; breeds cattle, horses, and swine. - - Produces sugar-cane, coffee, tobacco, and all tropical grains. - - MATTO GROSSO (between 7° and 24° 30´ South).—Possesses mines of - gold, diamond, iron, and copper; timber and medicinal plants as - ipecacuanha; breeds cattle. - - Produces coffee, tobacco, and all tropical grains. - - - BRAZILIAN FINANCES.—LAW OF 1860. - -The following are the chief leading provisions of this law, which may be -called the Banking Law of Brazil:— - -1st. To limit the issues of independent banks to the average of the -first six months of 1860 during the suspension of cash payments. - -2nd. To limit the issues of the Bank of Brazil and its branches to -double its unengaged funds, the Government being empowered to grant -their issue to be raised to three times the value of the said disengaged -funds, but this only in case they do not exceed the average of its -issues since its foundation. All this during the suspension of cash -payments. - -3rd. To abolish small note issues of the independent banks. The Bank of -Brazil to withdraw from circulation its small notes if within six months -it did not resume cash payments. - -4th. To contract the issue of all banks at the rate from 3 to 12 per -cent. if within a year they did not resume cash payments. - -5th. To subject for the future banks to the Bankruptcy Law, in case of -their not paying their notes in gold. - -6th. To appoint an official Government Inspector for each bank. - -7th. To limit the dividends of all commercial companies to their net -profits on each half-year's operations. - -8th. To prohibit the issue of promissory, or other notes to bearer, -without authorisation of the Legislature, except cheques on bankers. - -9th. To allow to the banks the mutual exchange of their notes received -in payment. - -10. To submit to the Government's approval all sorts of companies and -corporations, after certain formalities for the guarantee of the public. - -11th. To make concessions for banks of issue for railways and canals -dependent on the Legislature. - -12th. To regulate the organisation of savings-banks, friendly societies, -and pawnbrokers. - -13th. To substitute the copper coins by bronze. - -14th. Finally, to facilitate the acquisition of the Railways for the -State by exchanging their bonds for Government internal stock of 6 per -cent., or for external of 4½, both at par. - -Of such efficacious character were the provisions adopted by the Law of -1860 that the foreign exchange, infallible thermometer of the -circulating medium, was gradually rising, and from 25¾d., where it was -at the publication of the said law, it rose to 27⅝d., that is to say, it -went above par, and this was the rate at the time when the financial -crisis of 1864 occurred. Accordingly the market price of bullion also -went down. - - - WORKSHOPS OF THE WESTERN RAILWAY OF BUENOS AYRES. - - (From the _Buenos Ayres Standard_.) - -Buenos Ayres has at last thrown off the mantle of dignified idleness in -which she has been so long enveloped, and is taking her place amongst -the leading nations of the earth. The days are past when every article -for social comfort or consumption had to be imported from abroad. We are -creeping along in the right path at last, and Governor Alsina and Emilio -Castro are head workmen of Buenos Ayres. They are creating mechanical -power in this country, calculated at no very distant date to develop the -resources of her natural wealth to such a point that it will enlarge her -credit, extend her commerce, and give birth to manufactures. - -Happy indeed is it for the interests of this country that so immense a -capital has found its way into steam hammers, saws, lathes, and all the -mighty elements which mechanical genius has called into the service of -man. We are on the right track at last, and people who want to judge of -the real progress of this place should visit the workshops of the -Western Railway. Within the last few years this grand mart of mechanical -industry has sprung into existence. We recollect Buenos Ayres without a -railway—still more without a workshop—unless the humble smith's forge -may be dubbed by this title; but on last Wednesday it was with agreeable -astonishment we witnessed the foundries, shops, forges, warehouses, &c., -all in full play, and every man at his post; in fact, the only alloy to -our feelings of satisfaction was the utter absence of the youth of the -country from these, the finest and best schools for boys and young men. -The whole mechanical work going on is in the hands almost exclusively of -foreigners, and hardly a single native boy as apprentice for the entire -length and breadth of the establishment is to be seen. We trust when the -great advantages of these shops are brought properly before the public -that we shall see some change in this respect. - -At one o'clock a select party attended at the Railway Station in the -Parque, to witness the working of some new machinery sent out recently -by Mr. Thomas Allen, the Government engineer abroad. We noticed, amongst -those present, Dr. Rawson, Sres. Gonsalez, Santa Maria, Coghlan, -Gowland, Fleming, Aguirre, Velez, Castro, Gutierrez, Dr. Seguel, and -several other leading men whose names we forget. A beautiful model -locomotive was, with the aid of a small kerosene lamp, set a-going; it -worked on a tray, and fairly astonished with the precision of its -movements some Cordova friends present. A portable galvanic telegraphic -apparatus was next introduced, and one of the operatives in charge -showed the working of it, the great merit of which appeared to us to be -its extreme simplicity. On the table lay drawings of the new fountains -for the Water Works; the “jet d'eau” for the Plaza Victoria is a truly -magnificent and useful ornament; it will cost when put up about £1,500, -but those for the other Plazas are less expensive. - -At the Parque Station they have now a complete set for twelve stations -of Morse's Printing Telegraph. Everything has arrived in first-rate -order for connecting Rosario with this city. There are over 500 wrought -iron posts, with twelve tables. The whole affair will cost, we believe, -about £11,000. The manager, or chief electrician, is expected out in the -packet; at present M. Ringallé is in charge. Four telegraph clerks have -also been engaged in England. - -About half-past one we proceeded to the special train in waiting to -convey us to the Once Setiembre depots. We noticed that the Bragge roof -is completely worn away, but we understand that the new iron and glass -roof, from England, has arrived, and will be put up immediately. Every -day materials are arriving from abroad, owing to the convenience of -having such a practical agent as Mr. Thomas Allen, who, from his -lengthened experience on the road, knows precisely what is wanted and -what will suit. A large turning table is now coming out, upwards of -forty-two feet. It will be the largest in the country; it was made at -Birmingham, and will be put up at the Parque Central Station; also a -large travelling truck, to carry railway carriages, waggons, &c., from -one line to another. We entered Governor Alsina's state coach, being -accompanied by the guests, and pushed on for the depots. The coach is -elegantly fitted up with every convenience, and we are surprised his -Excellency the Governor does not take a trip out twice a week to -Chivilcoy or Mercedes. - -Arriving at the depots, we first entered the foundry department, and -came on a hydraulic press used for taking the wheels off axles; it works -up to a pressure of fifty tons; three men work it, and it is one of the -most useful machines in the shop, doing in ten minutes the work of ten -men for a whole day. - -Next we inspected a hydraulic pump for trying the state of boilers to -500 lbs. per square inch, which is constantly in use. - -A large planing machine next met the eye. This machine planes up to nine -feet, and is used for making points and crossings, or any large planing, -and is worked by a boy. - -Alongside is a small screw cutting lathe, twelve inch centres. This -machine is useful for all kinds of work. - -Then we have a small lathe for brass turning, eight inch centres, worked -by apprentices. - -Further on is a screwing machine, patented by Messrs. Sharpe, Stewart & -Co., of Manchester, to screw from ¼ to 1½ inches; also worked by a boy. - -Another machine, patented by the same firm, called a shaping machine, -for all kinds of work; one of the most useful in the shop, and worked by -apprentices. - -Next comes a break lathe; will turn up to six feet for screw cutting and -for all other kind of work; attended to by operatives. - -The shaft pump supplies the great tank with water from a huge algibe, -throwing up 3,500 gallons 18 feet high. This water is used for washing -boilers, &c. - -The large wheel lathe, a ponderous machine, turns wheels six feet -diameter: this is used to repair wheels, which, being in constant use, -require continued attention—worked by an operative. - -Then comes a double-faced wheel lathe, turning two wheels at one time; -turns up to 4 feet diameter—worked by an operative. - -The large stationary engine, the great motive power of the whole shop, -drives all the shafts, is 12-horse power, burning about three quarters -of a ton of slack and ashes per day—attended by one operative. - -The patent silent fan, which is used to supply six blacksmiths' forges, -making 2,000 evolutions per minute. - -Then comes the monarch of the shop, the steam hammer. Here we witnessed -the strokes of this huge machine, at which even Vulcan himself would -stare. The noise of this hammer striking on the red hot bars echoed -around the whole square. Mr. Daniel Gowland remarked that the first -steam hammer he ever saw in South America was in the ill-fated Paraguay. - -There are six blacksmiths' forges constantly at work, fed by the steam -fan, and always occupied in repairing locomotives, coaches, waggons, &c. - -Mr. Manier is the foreman of this shop. Before, however, we leave it, we -must notice the casting or blast foundry. Whilst we were present we -witnessed the workmen casting old brass into new plates, which latter -arrangement realised an immense saving, and redounds to the credit of -the indefatigable Emilio Castro, who perceived the great loss in selling -old brass and buying new; and last, not least, we must not omit the huge -punching machine, very useful in its way, but little used. It punches -quarter inch to an inch, and cuts up to three quarter boiler plates. - -The repairing shop is large (50 metres by 50), and capable of holding -thirty locomotives; we noticed four locomotives under repair. Damaged -engines are here turned out as good as new; and, indeed, Mr. John Allen, -who is the moving genius of the whole mechanical department, assures us -that they can make their own locomotives, so replete with every utensil -are the shops; but, of course, it is cheaper to import them. Two damaged -engines were landed not long ago, and were about to be sold by auction, -but Mr. Allen took them in hand, and now they are in excellent working -order. Owing to the great falling off of traffic on the line, there are -now only eight engines daily under steam, whereas this time last year -they had sixteen; but in this shop all kinds of repairs can be done. -Already the shops have built several first and second-class -coaches—genuine native industry. - -We next pass to the coach and waggon shop, (50 by 12), capable of -holding about twelve carriages. Here all the coaches are overhauled, -repaired, varnished, and even the upholstery attended to, and coaches -built. The only thing which as yet baffles the mechanics are the wheels, -which must be imported. - -And now we come to the new carpenter's shop, where the new machines sent -out by Mr. Allen have been just put up. - -The chief attraction is the new machine which, as it does every -imaginable kind of work, is called the “General Joiner.” None of the -gentlemen present could give us the exact name in Spanish for this -machine, so we call it the “Nuevo Carpintero General.” A facetiously -disposed writer might opine that as President Mitre has given to the -Republic a new cavalry major, Governor Alsina, not to be outdone, has -given his country a new “General,” the best and most potent general in -the Republic; and we congratulate the Governor on the acquisition of the -new “Carpintero General.” - -We all stood astonished at the work it did, and have not now time to -explain its varied powers; it plains, moulds, and saws planks of every -size in a few moments; and beside it we noticed the new endless saw; -also the jigger saw for pattern making; also the new wood turning lathe, -and the large drilling machine, the largest in this country for drilling -wheels. - -In the yard we noticed sixty pair of extra wheels from the States, but -at these depots they have an immense extra supply of everything. - -And if we were to stop to detail all we saw in those wondrous workshops -it would fill half-a-dozen _Standards_. - -The works are a credit to Buenos Ayres, and an honour to the present -Administration. We left these busy haunts with the most favourable -impressions, well recollecting that but a few years ago this very site -was a rude brick-kiln. - -Yes, there is vitality, after all, in Buenos Ayres, and if any man -doubts it, let him pay a visit on a working day to these shops. The -store-rooms, under the charge of Mr. Tucker, are replete with -everything, and the wool depots are the grandest and most extensive in -the country, capable of holding at one time 100 waggons. - -There are sixty-eight mechanics in the workshops constantly employed; -600 men engaged in working the line. - -Mr. Emilio Castro, head director; Don Luis Elordi, second in command; -Mr. John Allen next; and Mr. Zimmermann head electrician. - - - SANITARY CHARACTER OF THE ANDINE HEIGHTS. - -We have made the following extracts from an article published in the -“Revista de Buenos Ayres,” on the climates of the Andine Heights, and -mountains of Cordova, written by Dr. Scrivener, who has himself resided -for many years in those countries. The “Revista de Buenos Ayres” is a -most valuable publication, and those who are interested in South America -will find much reliable information in it. It contains many curious -articles on the history and literature of the country. It has now -reached its 13th volume, each book containing 640 pages, 8vo.:— - -The sky at the Andine Mountains is pure azure, and the atmosphere bright -and clear, and is so very transparent that it enables you to see objects -at a distance, making them apparently close at hand, although in reality -it would require a journey of several days to reach them. - -The climate is fine and healthy, the lightness of the atmosphere -produces an exhilarating effect, and an increase of energy and activity. -The grandeur and magnificence of the mountains fill the mind with -sentiments of veneration and awe. - -I have traversed these mountains on many occasions, and am therefore -enabled to form an opinion of the salubrity of the climate, as also of -that on the route from the Province of Cordova to the banks of the -Pacific. All over this vast tract of land, that fatal enemy of man, the -tubercular phthisis, so justly feared by the inhabitants of Lima, and -Buenos Ayres, is entirely unknown. - -During a residence of nearly ten years in different and widely spread -districts of the whole country, I never saw nor heard, either directly -or indirectly, through my intercourse with others, of the existence of -that disease. - -Doctor Smith remarks,[10] “that incipient and tubercular phthisis, -usually attended with more or less hemoptysis, is one of the most common -pulmonary affections known in Lima and other parts of the coast of Peru. - -“Besides, it is a disease almost certainly cured if taken in time, by -removing the _coast_ patient to the open inland valley of Jauja, which -runs from ten to eleven thousand feet above the sea level. - -“This fact has been known and acted upon from time immemorial by the -native inhabitants and physicians, and I have,” observes that physician, -“sent patients from the capital to Jauja, in a very advanced state of -phthisis, with open ulcerations and well marked caverns on the lungs, -and have seen them again after a lapse of a little time, return to their -homes free from fever, and with every appearance of the disease being -arrested; but in many instances it would, after a protracted residence -on the coast, again become necessary to return to the mountains, to -prevent a recurrence of the disease.” - -We thus learn from the preceding extract, that the influence of the -atmosphere in the mountains of Peru will remove pulmonary consumption in -its first stage, and arrest its progress when far advanced. That such is -the fact, I can also myself vouch from my own experience during a -residence of sixteen years in that country. - -Dr. Jourdant remarks,[11] “that consumption is very rare in high -elevations, which is not to be attributed to the latitude of the place, -but to its elevation; that Mexico and Puebla, which are almost free from -this disease, are in the same latitude as Vera Cruz, where it prevails; -and that the condition of the patient who suffers from consumption is -considerably relieved in elevated districts, which he attributes to a -less amount of oxygen in the rarified air.” - -From these facts we can assert with safety, that those who unfortunately -suffer from incipient tubercular phthisis, will almost with certainty -obtain a cure in the mountainous districts which extend at a higher or -lower elevation from the province of Cordova to the valley of Rimac, -whilst, on the other hand, those in the later stages of that malady will -find it will be arrested, and that their lives will be prolonged for -years. - -It becomes a matter for most serious consideration, whether it would not -be well for patients suffering from pulmonary complaints to seek the -renovation of their health in these salubrious regions, in preference to -the Island of Madeira, Italy, and the South of France, where these -diseases are known to originate, and where hundreds have gone to without -obtaining any advantages, and many with positively evil results. - -“There is something,” says Mr. Burkhardt,[12] “like the sound of a -death-knell in the physician's mandate sending the sick patient to those -places and scenes where so many fellow-sufferers have preceded him, in -vain search for health, and found—a grave.” - -The invalid will not find this in these healthy districts. In the -mountains of Cordova, as well as on the Andine Heights, the patient will -find his disease alleviated, and in time removed, (let him come from -what quarter of the globe he may) by the hand of Nature. There pulmonary -complaints are never known to originate, and there those who suffer from -it, on the borders of the Parana and the River Plate, seek and find a -permanent cure for their ailments proceeding from all affections of the -lungs. “He will not have before his imagination the phantoms of -numberless victims, his predecessors in the same hopeless career, to -cast the shadow of death upon a being already depressed in mind by -disease and loneliness, and pining after the familiar sights and sounds -he may perhaps never hear again.” There, on the contrary, he will be in -the midst of all that is grand—a thousand magnificent objects will -excite his attention, and divert his mind from his unhappy malady, on -which he will not dwell, but, on the contrary, on well founded hopes of -a perfect recovery and a speedy return to his family and friends. - -We believe, that when the benefits to be derived from a residence in the -climate of these mountains are more generally known in Europe, very many -who suffer from pulmonary complaints will visit these regions for a -renovation of their health and system. - -We would recommend the mountains of Cordova to consumptive patients, in -preference to the Andine Heights of Bolivia, as being the nearest to the -River Plate, and containing a greater variety of objects to divert the -attention and amuse. The facility of transport, the shortness of the -passage, combined with a well-founded hope of renovating the health, -will be of themselves sufficient reasons for undertaking the journey. - -The passage from England can be made in thirty-four days. There are -several lines of merchant steamers, from London and Liverpool, as well -as the Government vessels from Southampton and Bordeaux, which arrive at -Buenos Ayres every month. From this port you can embark in a steamer for -the city of Rosario, which is most beautifully situated on the banks of -the river Parana, and is the finest port in the Argentine Confederation, -at which you arrive in about twenty-six hours. - -From thence you take the Argentine Central Railway, and arrive at the -city of Cordova on the same day. - -Here commence the serraicias or mountainous districts, which extend to -the valley of Rimac, comprising an area of about 1,000 leagues. - -We believe that at no very distant time, a public establishment will be -founded in the mountains of Cordova for consumptive patients; should -this be the case, we can vouch that there would be no lack of visitors -willing to support the establishment, and anxious to aid it by their -means, in exchange for the benefits they have received there; the -natural grandeur and magnificence of the mountain scenery would also -contribute, in no small degree, to the attractions of the place, and the -benefit of the invalids. - -The city of Cordova is situated in a deep valley on the banks of a -river, amidst the most beautiful and varied scenery. - -Ascending from the city to the mountains, the traveller finds every -variety of climate, with a difference of temperature at every additional -ascent. - -In these varieties of temperature, he will be certain to find one that -is suitable to his complaint, and agreeable to himself. - -The tops and sides of the mountains are partly covered with trees and -shrubs, and the soil in the valley is rich and very fertile, producing -Indian corn, wheat, barley, sundry fruits and vegetables, and whatever -the husbandman may desire to cultivate. Cattle, horses, mules, with -sheep and goats, roam in large herds, on most excellent pasture. -Huanacos and other wild animals inhabit the mountains. The wool of the -sheep is of a superior quality and highly prized in the European -markets. - -There are great varieties of trees on the plains, many of which are very -lofty, and their branches form an agreeable shade, as well as add to the -beauty of the scenery. The timber of these trees is of superior quality, -well suited for the construction of houses, and in the manufacture of -furniture, &c. - -There are mines of gold, silver, copper, and iron; the latter is very -abundant and of good quality; there are also marble quarries, and the -marble is very fine and of different colours; limestone of an extremely -white nature is abundant; in short, there are few spots in the world -where nature has lavished such a variety of animals, vegetables, and -mineral productions as the province of Cordova. - -It must follow, that with all these natural advantages, a country -producing every commodity for the subsistence of man, and capable of -affording all that tends to the convenience and luxury of life, will -become at no distant period the abode of a numerous, industrious and -wealthy population. - -For a long period the Jesuits held their head-quarters in this province, -and they were remarkable for their tact and knowledge in selecting the -most healthy and fertile spots for their residences. - -They erected in the capital the finest churches in the Argentine -Confederation: they acquired large possessions throughout the province, -and they also built splendid country mansions, which are models of art, -taste, and convenience. - -The fine edifices at Santa Catalina, Jesus Maria, and Caraga, are much -visited and greatly admired by strangers. - -It has been truly remarked by an eminent writer, that the greatest -wonder of the age is a locomotive engine; that since its adoption -travellers have been multiplied through the facility of transit: and -that the greater those facilities, the greater the number of travellers. -These facts have become generally known in this Republic, where several -railways have already been made, and others are being constructed. The -Central Argentine Railway, when completed, will extend from the city of -Rosario to Cordova; this will be a great and lasting benefit to the -commerce of the country. Cordova is now the grand emporium of the inland -provinces; their productions of hides, wool, cotton, indigo, sugar, -wine, wheat, tobacco, skins of animals, gold, silver, copper, iron and -other valuable productions, are transported thither and conveyed by rail -to the port of Rosario and shipped for Buenos Ayres, or direct to -Europe. This railway extends 248 miles in length. Passengers have much -increased since the opening of this line to Villa Nueva, and will still -further increase on its completion to Cordova. In addition to men of -business, many will avail themselves of it as a journey of pleasure, to -visit the city and its beautiful mountain scenery. - -Those who are fond of this kind of scenery will find much to please -them. The mineralogist will see minerals, and the botanist plants, to -attract their attention. We fully believe that before the lapse of many -years strangers from Buenos Ayres, and other provinces, will build -cottages in these beautiful and healthy regions, which would only -require taste in their erection, and judgment in selecting the sites, to -render them all that can be imagined as beautiful and romantic. - - - BUENOS AYRES AND THE OTHER PROVINCES A FIELD FOR EUROPEAN IMMIGRATION. - -The following interesting and reliable statement has been published and -circulated under the authority of the Argentine Government:— - -The recommendations of the Argentine Republic to Europeans are:— - -1. That the climate is as healthy and as favourable to vigour and -longevity as that of England, or any other country of Europe. - -2. That its cultivable lands are practically of unlimited extent, and -require no outlay for clearing. - -3. That it contains already, and especially at Buenos Ayres, the -Capital, a large and prosperous European population, composed of -Italians, French, English, Scotch and Irish, Germans, Portuguese, and -others. - -4. That the Government is solidly established and perfectly liberal, the -aim of all parties being to maintain the financial honour of the -country, to preserve peace, and to promote the development of industry -and commerce. - -5. That, while the State religion is Roman Catholic, complete toleration -is upheld, churches of all denominations being established at Buenos -Ayres and other places, where a considerable portion of the settlers are -English or German Protestants, or Scotch Presbyterians. - -6. That there is fortnightly[13] postal communications with England and -the Continent by powerful Mail Steamers from Southampton and Bordeaux. - -7. That the commercial policy of the country is in the direction of free -trade. - -8. That there is a treaty of amity, commerce, and navigation between -Great Britain and the Republic, and that foreigners are exempted from -compulsory military service or forced loans. - -9. That there are a sufficient number of British subjects in the -Republic to render a knowledge of the Spanish language non-essential for -immigrants, and that this language is capable, during a short residence, -of being more easily acquired than any other: likewise, that an English -newspaper is regularly published at Buenos Ayres, and also at the city -and port of Rosario, and that there is an influential English Bank and -other institutions. - -10. That the staple productions of the country are such as at all times -to command the markets of the world, the principal exports being tallow, -hides, and wool, while, during the past year, a trade in preserved meat -has been opened up which seems to promise, if sufficient attention be -given to establish a scientific process of curing, to assume proportions -as sudden and profitable as those of the newly-developed petroleum trade -of North America; that there is also a mining district in the interior -provinces on the slope of the Andes, which appears, from the operations -thus far conducted, to be one of the richest silver regions yet -discovered. - -11. That the country is being opened up in all directions by English -Railway enterprises, one of which, the Rosario and Cordova Line, will be -247 miles in length, and is considered to be ultimately destined to -cross the entire country to Chili, and thus to form a highway for the -traffic between the Atlantic and the Pacific. - -12. That the acquisition of land is easy and its tenure secure, and that -additional and extraordinary facilities for settlement are in course of -introduction by the circumstance of about a million of acres on the -sides of their line having been ceded to the Rosario and Cordova -(Central Argentine) Railway Company, and of a grant of 10,400 square -miles in the fertile province of Cordova having been made to Mr. -Etchegaray, which is to be transferred to a London Company. - -Finally, it is to be observed, that the debt of the country, foreign and -internal, the interest on which is paid with unfailing punctuality, is -comparatively small; that it is gradually in course of extinction, and -that the six per cent. bonds in the London market range between 90 and -100; that there are no direct taxes; and that the commerce of the -country is increasing with such rapidity, that in the Board of Trade -Returns of British exports for the past year (1864), it figures for -£1,758,058, and stands higher in the list than Chili or Peru, and, as -regards European countries, higher than Prussia, Sweden and Norway, -Denmark, and many others with which we have an important traffic. - -The present population of the Argentine Republic is but about 2,000,000, -and immigration may be said to be its only want. This is felt and -acknowledged by all classes, and every arrival is therefore warmly -welcomed. The tide thither is gradually increasing, and persons best -acquainted with the country express a conviction that the growth of -Buenos Ayres, which at present is a fine city, with about 200,000 -inhabitants, will during the next twenty years rival that which has been -witnessed at New York during the like period in the past. In several -cases persons of moderate capital have emigrated from Australia and New -Zealand to the Argentine Republic, owing to the advantages of its -greater proximity to England, and its superior facilities for the -acquisition of land. - -By far the greater portion of the country consists of rich alluvial -plains, constituting what are called the Pampas. The climate is subject -to a great difference of temperature in winter and summer, but the -changes are gradual and regular. The winter is about as cold as the -English November, with white frosts, and ice at sunrise. “Taken as a -whole, the Pampas may be said to enjoy as beautiful and as salubrious an -atmosphere as the most healthy parts of Greece and Italy, and without -being subject to malaria.”[14] - -The country is universally celebrated for the abundance of its cattle, -horses, sheep, goats, asses, mules, and swine. The number of cattle -fifteen years ago was estimated at 12,000,000, and the horses, mules, -and asses at more than 4,000,000, and they are supposed since that -period to have largely increased. - -The salubrity of the climate seems especially beneficial to immigrants -from this country, its influence being singularly restorative wherever -there is any tendency to bronchial or pulmonary affections. In some -districts, such as that of the beautiful city and province of Cordova, -these disorders appear to be almost unknown, and as on the completion of -the Central Argentine Railway it will be possible to reach the city of -Cordova from London in little more than a month, that place may probably -become a sanitarium for Europeans in a majority of the most important -cases where change of climate is desirable. - - - PROTECTION OF IMMIGRANTS. - - _An influential Commission, of which_ SENOR DON M. J. AZCUENAGA _is - President, is formed at Buenos Ayres to assist Immigrants, by whom - the following Notice is issued. Similar care is exercised at the - Port of Rosario_:— - - NOTICE.—THE COMMITTEE OF IMMIGRATION TO IMMIGRANTS ARRIVING AT THE PORT - OF BUENOS AYRES. - -This Committee gives notice to Immigrants who arrive at this port that -whaleboats have been engaged by the same to bring them on shore and that -a commodious “Asylum” is prepared for them, where they will find lodging -and food during the first eight days after their arrival, all gratis; -and that in case any sick persons should be amongst them, they will be -sent to the hospitals of this city, where they will be attended with the -utmost care, likewise gratis; and finally, that this Commission will -undertake to procure suitable employment for them, as well in town as in -the camp, without any charge. - -The present notice is given as a precaution that the Immigrants may not -be imposed upon by individuals who go on board with whaleboats, offering -to take them on shore, because, besides that those individuals make them -pay for landing them, they take them to taverns where they are obliged -to spend their money, and, having no means to pay with, they lose their -luggage. - -The Immigrants are therefore advised in their own interest to disembark -in the whaleboats sent by the Committee, and to go direct to the -“Asylum,” situated in the street Corrientes, No. 8, where they will have -nothing to pay. - - By order of the Commission, - Buenos Ayres, Nov. 1, 1864. GEORGE P. E. TORNQUIST, - Secretary. - -The following is a list of the classes of Immigrants most required in -Buenos Ayres:— - - OCCUPATION. Monthly Wages with Board. - - Farmers £3 0 0 - - Gardeners £3 15 0 to 4 10 0 - - Farm Servants £2 5 0 to 3 0 0 - - House Servants, Men 2 5 0 - - House Servants, Women £2 0 0 to 3 0 0 - - Cooks, Men 3 0 0 to 3 15 0 - - Cooks, Women 2 5 0 to 3 0 0 - - Boys from 10 to 15 years 0 15 0 to 1 5 0 - - Sempstresses 2 15 0 - - Milliners 2 15 0 - - Dressmakers 2 15 0 - - Laundresses 2 16 0 - - Daily Wages without - Board. - - Bricklayers 6s. 0d. - - Joiners 6 6 - - Blacksmiths 6 6 - - Shoemakers 7 6 - - Tailors 6s. 0d. to 9 0 - - Labourers 4 6 - - Railway labourers 6 0 - - Miners — — - -NOTE.—_Higher Wages may be calculated upon in the interior Provinces, -and Artisans of superior merit will always obtain more than is quoted._ - - - OBSERVATIONS. - -In the rural establishments merely, situated in the suburbs of the -capital, thousands of families may engage themselves immediately. - -With respect to those Immigrants who may come to establish themselves in -the flourishing Colonies of Santa Fé, Baradero, San Jose, or others -actually forming in various parts of the Republic, we do not hesitate to -say that, owing to the fertility of the land, they will rapidly acquire -a modest fortune. - -In summer, Farm Labourers get 6s. to 7s. 6d. per day. - -The scarcity of Domestic Servants is notorious—a preference being given -to Women. - -Sempstresses, Milliners, Dressmakers, and Laundresses, however numerous -the arrivals, are certain of employment. - -Artisans of all descriptions, and Immigrants, even though of no fixed -calling, will get employment to their satisfaction, immediately on -landing. - -The Railways now employ a large staff, but some thousands of labourers -are required for the earthworks that are being pushed forward with the -greatest activity. - -Immigrants—above all, those with a knowledge of Minerals—will find very -lucrative employment in the rich and numerous Mines of San Juan, -Mendoza, La Rioja, Catamarca, Jujuy, Cordova, and Salta, which are now -being worked with the most satisfactory results. - -A fortnightly journal, called _The Brazil and River Plate Mail_, is -published in London by BATES, HENDY & CO., 4, Old Jewry, E.C. - - - STEAM NAVIGATION ON THE RIVER PLATE. - -I have been disappointed in getting a statement of the up-river traffic -in passengers and merchandise, both of which have assumed very large -dimensions; but the following list of steam agents at Buenos Ayres, and -the steamers employed, will give some idea of what is doing in this way, -as well as the increase that may be looked for when the war in Paraguay -is over:— - - _Matti and Piera_ (the leading agents, with a large fleet of - steamers.)—The steamer Rio Negro, weekly, for Salto and ports; the - steamers Uruguay, for Rosario, Paraná, and Santa Fé, from the - Railway Station, Retiro; the steamer Rio Uruguay, for Monte Video; - the steamer Rio Negro, for Monte Video; the steamer Lujan, for - Gualeguay, Rosario, Paraná, and Santa Fé, from the Railway - Station, Retiro. These steamers mostly make weekly passages; the - communication with Monte Video is more frequent. - - _Henry Dowse_ (one of the oldest steam agents in Buenos Ayres).—The - steamer James T. Brady, for Monte Video; the steamer Beauly, for - Colonia; national steamer Estrella, from the Tigre, for Rosario, - Paraná, Santa Fé, and intermediate ports. - - _Alvarez and Risso_.—For Monte Video, the steamer Villa del Salto, - on Mondays, returning early on Thursday mornings; the steamer Rio - de la Plata, on Wednesdays, returning early on Saturday mornings. - For Salto and ports, the steamer Villa del Salto, on Thursdays, - returning early on Monday mornings; for Salto and ports, the - steamer Rio de la Plata, on Saturdays, returning early on - Wednesday mornings; for Salto and ports, the steamer Salto, twice - a month, taking passengers, cargo, and parcels, for all - intermediate ports. For Corrientes and Itapiru, the Oriental - steamer Tigre, taking passengers, cargo, and parcels; for Bahia - Blanca and Patagones, the National steamer Patagones, once a - month, taking cargo, passengers, and parcels. - - _The Steam Company for the Rivers_ run three screw-steamers, the - Taraguay, the Goya, and the Guarani, chiefly with cargo, for - Corrientes and Curupaity. - - _G. T. Paez_ runs steamers to Gualeguay, to Rosario, and - intermediate ports, amongst them the Castor, Pollox (English); - national steamers Lucia and Elena, and the Italian steamer - Venezia. - - _Rubio and Foley_ despatch the British steamer Iaguarete for - Corrientes, Itapiru, Curupaity, and ports, and the National - steamer Victoria, for La Victoria and Zarate. - - _The South American Steamboat Company_ despatch steamers for - Humaita, Curupaity, Corrientes, and ports. They also provide steam - communication to Monte Video, with cargo and passengers. - -At Monte Video there are several steam companies and agencies connected -with Buenos Ayres. Monte Video steamers run chiefly up the Uruguay; -others going up the Paraná call at Monte Video, and between Monte Video -and Buenos Ayres there are now steamers running daily to and from both -ports, one or two being powerful American river boats, with splendid -accommodation for passengers. - -The following particulars of up-river distances may be interesting:— - - Miles. - From Monte Video to Buenos Ayres 106 - Buenos Ayres to Martin Garcia 33 - Martin Garcia to Higueritas 30 - ——— 169 - Higueritas to Fray Bentos 60 - Fray Bentos to Gualeguaychu 27 - Gualeguaychu to Concepcion del Uruguay 33 - Concepcion del Uruguay to Paysandú 15 - Paysandú to Concordia 90 - Concordia to Salto 3 - ——— 228 - Buenos Ayres to San Fernando 18 - San Fernando to Las Palmas 12 - Las Palmas to Zarate 36 - Zarate to San Pedro 55 - San Pedro to Obligado 6 - Obligado to Los Hermanos 12 - Los Hermanos to San Nicolas 32 - San Nicolas to San Piedras 8 - San Piedras to Rosario 31 - Rosario to San Lorenzo 18 - San Lorenzo to Diamante 54 - Diamante to Santa Fé 36 - Santa Fé to Paraná 10 - Paraná to La Paz 102 - La Paz to Esquinao 72 - Esquinao to Goya 73 - Goya to Bella Vista 53 - Bella Vista to Corrientes 87 - The Branch Line to Gualeguay 20 - ——— 735 - From Buenos Ayres to Bahia Blanca and Patagones 840 - From Colonia to Cape St. Maria 200 - - - SHIPPING MOVEMENTS. - - MOVEMENT OF SHIPPING (SAILING AND STEAM) TO AND FROM BRAZIL AND THE - RIVER PLATE DURING THE YEAR 1867, TAKEN FROM THE BOARD OF TRADE - RETURNS:— - - INWARDS. SHIPS. TONNAGE. - - {Brazil 477 188,643 - English {Monte Video 73 23,067 - {Buenos Ayres 44 19,237 - - {Brazil 139 29,174 - Foreign {Monte Video 39 10,153 - {Buenos Ayres 32 8,968 - - Total English and Foreign:— - - Brazil 616 275,562 - Monte Video 112 123,597 - Buenos Ayres 76 64,348 - ——— - - OUTWARDS. - - {Brazil 493 195,487 - English {Monte Video 163 79,453 - {Buenos Ayres 142 46,462 - - {Brazil 291 80,082 - Foreign {Monte Video 111 44,144 - {Buenos Ayres 62 16,886 - - Total English and Foreign:— - - Brazil 784 275,569 - Monte Video 274 124,597 - Buenos Ayres 204 64,348 - ------ - -Footnote 10: - - See "Climate of the Swiss Alps and of the Peruvian Andes compared." - -Footnote 11: - - See "Les Altitudes de l'Amerique Tropical au-dessus le niveau des mars - au point de vue de la constitution medicale." - -Footnote 12: - - See "Syria and the Holy Land." - -Footnote 13: - - There is now weekly communication by steamers between Europe and the - River Plate. - -Footnote 14: - - "Encyclopædia Britannica." - - - - - TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES - - - 1. Made the changes indicated in the ERRATA section. - 2. Added opening quotes (“) to each paragraph in the block quotation on - p. 53 consistent with the practice used elsewhere in this book. - 3. Changed gods to goods on p. 192. - 4. Changed coveying to conveying on p. 205. - 5. Parana is used more frquently than Paraná. Also depôt more - frequently than depot. In both cases, neither form was changed to - the other due to both being frequently used. - 6. Silently corrected typographical errors. - 7. Retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed. - 8. 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