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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..61eb24c --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53521 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53521) diff --git a/old/53521-0.txt b/old/53521-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 52c1908..0000000 --- a/old/53521-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2668 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oysters and Fish, by Thomas J. (Thomas -Jefferson) Murrey - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Oysters and Fish - - -Author: Thomas J. (Thomas Jefferson) Murrey - - - -Release Date: November 13, 2016 [eBook #53521] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OYSTERS AND FISH*** - - -E-text prepared by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team -(http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by -Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/oystersfish00murr - - -Transcriber's note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). - - - - - -OYSTERS AND FISH - -by - -THOMAS J. MURREY - -Author of “Fifty Soups,” “Fifty Salads,” “Breakfast -Dainties,” “Puddings and Dainty Desserts,” “The -Book of Entrées,” “Cookery for Invalids,” -“Practical Carving,” “Luncheon,” “Valuable -Cooking Recipes,” etc. - - - - - - - -[Illustration] - -New York -Copyright, 1888, by -Frederick A. Stokes & Brother -1888 - - - - - DEDICATION. - - - _To the Inventor of the_ - - SHELDON CLOSE-TOP GAS-STOVE, - - _Who spent the best part of his life solving the - perplexed problem of Economy in Fuel and - Labor in our homes, and to those gentlemen - connected with gas companies, who assisted - and encouraged him, this little work is - most respectfully dedicated by_ - - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - - INTRODUCTORY 11 - - THE OYSTER 11 - - THE OYSTER SEASON 11 - - OYSTERS OUT OF SEASON 12 - - OYSTERS PRESERVED IN SHELL 12 - - THE FOOD OF THE OYSTER 14 - - FORMATION OF THE DEEP SHELL 14 - - COCK OYSTERS 15 - - GREEN OYSTERS 15 - - BANQUET OYSTERS 16 - - ORDERING OYSTERS FOR THE FAMILY TABLE 17 - - HOW OYSTERS SHOULD BE OPENED 18 - - HOW TO SERVE RAW OYSTERS 18 - - COLLATION SERVICE 19 - - HOW TO EAT A RAW OYSTER 19 - - A BARREL OF OYSTERS 20 - - READ THIS! 20 - - - COOKED OYSTERS 21 - - STEWED OYSTERS 21 - - PHILADELPHIA FRIED OYSTERS 22 - - CURRY OF OYSTERS 24 - - PICKLED-OYSTER OMELET 24 - - DEVILED OYSTERS ON TOAST 24 - - PICKLED OYSTERS 24 - - SCALLOPED OYSTERS 25 - - OYSTER SALAD 25 - - PLAIN FRIED OYSTERS 26 - - MISS PARLOA’S “NEW COOK-BOOK” 26 - - OYSTER TOAST 26 - - OYSTER OMELET 26 - - OYSTERS, BROILED 27 - - TRIPE WITH OYSTERS 27 - - OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE 27 - - FRIED OYSTERS 28 - - OYSTER AND CANNED SALMON PIE 28 - - OYSTER PATTIES 28 - - OYSTERS À LA POULETTE 29 - - PIE OF OYSTERS AND SCALLOPS 29 - - STEAMED OYSTERS 30 - - TO SERVE STEAMED OYSTERS 30 - - ROAST OYSTERS 31 - - BAKED OYSTERS 31 - - - CLAMS 31 - - LITTLE-NECK CLAMS 31 - - SOFT CLAMS IN CHAFING-DISH 32 - - STEWED LITTLE-NECK CLAMS 33 - - SOFT CLAMS 33 - - SOFT-SHELL CLAMS SCALLOPED 33 - - CLAM TOAST 34 - - CLAM BROTH 34 - - CLAM FRITTERS 34 - - FRIED SOFT CLAMS 35 - - - CRABS 35 - - HARD-SHELL CRABS 35 - - CRAB PATTIES, CREAM SAUCE 36 - - SOFT-SHELL CRABS 37 - - THE CARE OF SOFT CRABS 38 - - CRABS, SOFT-SHELL 39 - - CRAB CROQUETTES 39 - - CRAB PATTIES, À LA BECHAMEL 40 - - CRABS, À L’AMÉRICAINE 41 - - CRABS, DEVILED 41 - - - SCALLOPS 42 - - SCALLOP BROTH 42 - - SMALL PATTIES OF SCALLOPS 43 - - FRIED SCALLOPS 43 - - SCALLOPS EN BROCHETTE 44 - - STEWED SCALLOPS 44 - - - MUSSELS 44 - - THE MUSSEL 44 - - - THE LOBSTER 45 - - REMARKS ON THE LOBSTER 45 - - THE SEASON FOR LOBSTER 45 - - SOFT-SHELL LOBSTER NOT EDIBLE 46 - - SELECTING LOBSTERS 46 - - VALUE OF THE LOBSTER AS FOOD 46 - - BROILED LOBSTER 47 - - LOBSTER CROQUETTES WITH PEASE 48 - - LOBSTERS EN BROCHETTE 48 - - DEVILED LOBSTER 49 - - STEWED LOBSTER, À LA CRÉOLE 49 - - CURRY OF LOBSTER 50 - - LOBSTER SALAD 50 - - - THE OYSTER CRAB 51 - - TO SERVE OYSTER CRABS 52 - - OYSTER-CRAB OMELET 52 - - OYSTER-CRAB SAUCE 52 - - ACKNOWLEDGMENT 53 - - - SHRIMPS 53 - - MARKET PRICE OF SHRIMPS 54 - - SHRIMP OMELET 54 - - SHRIMP SAUCE 54 - - - PRAWNS 54 - - CURRY OF PRAWNS 55 - - PRAWNS, DEVILED, EN COQUILLE 55 - - PRAWNS, SAUTÉ, À LA MARENGO 55 - - PRAWN SALAD 56 - - - CRAYFISH 56 - - CRAYFISH OMELET 57 - - - SALMON 57 - - SALMON STEAK 57 - - CANNED SALMON 57 - - SALMON PATTIES 58 - - SALMON SURPRISE 59 - - SALMON À LA CRÉOLE 59 - - SALMON PIE 60 - - SALMON IN JELLY 60 - - SALMON OMELET 61 - - SALMON, GERMAN STYLE 61 - - SALMON À L’ITALIENNE 61 - - SALMON À LA HOLLANDAISE 62 - - SALMON, HUNTER’S STYLE 62 - - BOUILLABAISSE 63 - - - CODFISH 63 - - BOILED CODFISH, OYSTER SAUCE 63 - - CODFISH TONGUES 64 - - CODFISH STEAK 64 - - NEW-ENGLAND CODFISH BALLS 65 - - BAKED COD 66 - - SALT CODFISH WITH CREAM 66 - - SCROD 67 - - - BROOK TROUT 67 - - BROOK TROUT, SPORTSMAN STYLE 68 - - BROILED TROUT 69 - - BROOK TROUT, BAKED 69 - - BROOK TROUT, BOILED 70 - - - MISCELLANEOUS 70 - - CATFISH, FRIED 70 - - TENDERLOIN TROUT 71 - - FRICASSEED EELS 71 - - EEL PATTIES 72 - - STEWED EELS, HOBOKEN TURTLE CLUB STYLE 72 - - PAN BASS, ANCHOVY BUTTER 73 - - FILLET OF FLOUNDER, TARTAR SAUCE 74 - - FRIED TOMCODS 75 - - BROILED SALT CODFISH 75 - - BROILED SALT MACKEREL 76 - - FRIED PORGIES WITH SALT PORK 77 - - FISH CURRIES 78 - - A PLAIN FISH CURRY 78 - - CURRY OF SCALLOPS 78 - - CURRY OF CRAYFISH 79 - - CURRY OF EELS, WITH RICE 79 - - CURRY OF SHAD ROE 79 - - CURRY OF FROGS’ LEGS 80 - - BROILED WEAKFISH 80 - - BAKED WHITEFISH, BORDEAUX SAUCE 81 - - HALIBUT, EGG SAUCE 82 - - EGG SAUCE 82 - - FRIED BUTTERFISH 82 - - BROILED SHAD 82 - - BAKED SHAD 83 - - SHAD ROE À LA POULETTE 83 - - BROILED ROYANS 84 - - BROILED SARDINES 84 - - BROILED SMELTS, SAUCE TARTARE 84 - - SMELTS FRIED, SAUCE TARTARE 85 - - BROILED WHITEFISH 85 - - SHEEP’S-HEAD WITH DRAWN BUTTER 85 - - DRAWN BUTTER 86 - - BROILED SHEEP’S-HEAD 86 - - - - -INTRODUCTORY. - - -Would it not be beneficial, were the average American to substitute -fish for the everlasting steak and chop of the breakfast-table? - -For the sake of variety, if for no other reason, we should eat more -fish; and it need not always be fried or broiled. A well-made fish stew -or a curry should be acceptable to the majority of us, and undoubtedly -would be if appetizingly prepared. - -This little work does not by any means propose to exhaust the subject -of sea-food, for the subject is almost inexhaustible; but it places -within the reach of all a series of recipes and suggestions extremely -valuable to the average housewife. - - - - -THE OYSTER. - - -=The Oyster Season= opens in the city of New York on the first day -of September, and closes on the last day of April in each year. The -annual amount of business done in the oyster trade is close on to -$5,000,000. Each successive year witnesses an increase in the business. - -Notwithstanding the R canon, there are thousands of persons who eat -oysters at the summer resorts along the seashore throughout hot weather. - - -=Oysters out of Season.=--The writer does not recommend the eating of -oysters out of their season, no matter how fresh they may be, or how -appetizing they may appear. - -To supply the demands made upon them by summer resorts, oyster-planters -shift the oysters, during the spawning season, from warm shallow water -to cold deep water. This checks or prevents the oysters from spawning, -and to all appearance they are edible; but the writer firmly believes -that interfering with the laws of nature affects the health of the -oyster, and they cannot be as wholesome as planters would have us -believe. - - -=Oysters Preserved in Shell.=--So long as the oyster retains its -natural juices, it will live out of water, provided the changes in -the temperature are not too sudden. The moment the oyster opens its -shells, however, the juices run out, and in a short time afterward the -oyster dies. To prevent the oyster opening its stony overcoat, is -the object of oyster-shippers; and the Patent Office bears witness to -their many devices having this object in view. Some wire the shells, -others clasp or envelope the broad end of the shells with tin or -other metal. No doubt these devices aid in keeping the oyster alive -and fresh a little longer. Whether the nervous system of the oyster -is affected by the process, is a question. Scientists tell us that -oysters possess organs of sensation, and all who have handled oysters -learn in time that a sudden jar or shock will kill them. The jar of the -machinery of a steamboat will sometimes kill an oyster. When shipped -to Europe they are ordered to be stored as far away from the machinery -as possible. Some authorities claim that the oyster can hear. One -cannot noisily approach an oyster-bed at feeding time without their -hearing, and instantly every shell is closed. A cloud or a boat passing -over an oyster-bank will cause every shell to close with proverbial -tightness, and the sound of thunder will often kill them while they are -in transit,--conclusive evidence that the nervous system in an oyster, -while not highly developed, is of sufficient importance to merit -attention from those who roughly handle oysters. - -=The Food of the Oyster= consists of minute animal and vegetable -organisms and small particles of organized matter. Ordinary sea-water -contains an abundance of this sort of food, which is drawn into the -gills with the water. As the water strains through the pores into -the water tubes, the food particles are caught on the surface of the -gills by a layer of adhesive slime. As soon as they are entangled, -the microscopic hair-like projections on the gills strike against -them in such a way as to slide them along the gills toward the mouth. -When they reach the anterior ends of the gills, they are pushed off, -and fall between the lips, which are also covered with thin hair-like -projections, which carry the particles forward until they slide into -the mouth. No wonder the intelligent tramp wished that he might become -an oyster. His food would then come to him in a sort of endless -progression. - - -=Formation of the Deep Shell.=--Although the oyster lies upon the -bottom with one shell above and one below, the shells are not upon the -top and bottom of the body, but upon the right and left sides. The -two shells are symmetrical in the young oyster; but after it becomes -attached, the lower or attached side grows faster than the other, and -becomes deep and spoon-shaped, while the free valve remains nearly -flat. In nearly every case the lower or deep valve is the left. - - -=Cock Oysters.=--There is a belief among oyster-eaters, that the -dark-gray or black oysters are male oysters, and are therefore superior -to the female oyster. Such misinformation was evidently promulgated -by oyster-openers in anticipation of a tip for serving selected -oysters. There is no truth in the assertion, however, for there are -just as many black female oysters as there are black male oysters. -There is no characteristic color by which a male or cock oyster can -be distinguished from a female oyster. Microscopic examination, or a -scientific eye, is the means of discovering the sex of an oyster. - -The black-oyster romance is of ancient origin. The Roman -oyster-smashers successfully “worked it” on Pliny, Horace, and other -ancient writers and epicures. - - -=Green Oysters.=--At least a million dollars worth of oysters are -annually destroyed in New-York waters by sludge acid from the oil -refineries and illegal dumpings. The acid kills the oysters the instant -it touches them, and turns them green. There is very little danger that -a poisoned oyster will reach the consumer, but the loss to the planter -is enormous. - -The green tint of the oyster, or in fact any distinguished color the -oyster may possess, is due to the color of its food and to the nature -of the surrounding bottom. The bottom of the Shrewsbury River is mud; -the oysters take on a peculiar tawny color from their muddy bed. -Rockaway oysters exist on a hard sandy bottom. If the beds are covered -with sea-lettuce, as they often are, the oysters take on a delicate -green tint. When the lettuce is removed by a strong tide or high wind, -the oysters gradually assume their white, slightly grayish color. Their -shells are round, thin, and brittle. The shells from mud bottoms are -long, narrow, thick, and spongy. Intruded mud is enclosed by a thin -layer of pearly shell. - -The oyster epicure may rest assured of one fact. No matter what the -color of an oyster may be, so long as it is alive and seasonable it is -wholesome. It cannot absorb enough foreign matter to injure the epicure -without committing suicide, and there is no possible danger of any one -_swallowing_ a dead oyster. - - -=Banquet Oysters.=--As served at the average public banquet, the -raw oyster is a thing of terror to appetite and to weak digestive -organs. When looking for one’s seat, where, through an oversight, -one is not furnished with a chart of the tables, one beholds six -very small emaciated oysters. The heat in the room has absorbed their -moisture, afterwards the bed of fine ice on which they were placed -has melted, and the water overflowed them, thereby finishing the work -of destruction. One must be under the influence of the sherry and -Vermouth of the reception-rooms, to be willing to begin the feast with -such an introductory course. No wonder fashionable society demands a -substitute for the oyster as the dinner season progresses. In the name -of humanity, order the oysters to table and announce the dinner at -the same time. Guests are willing to wait a few moments for toothsome -oysters, provided they are direct from the ice-box. - - -=Ordering Oysters for the Family Table.=--Send the servant to the -nearest dealer, a few minutes before the oysters are wanted, and let -her wait for them. In this way one is quite sure of procuring freshly -opened oysters. Many dealers begin opening oysters for their family -orders hours before they are to be served; and the result is, they have -lost much of their juices before being served. - -Miss Parloa’s “New Cook Book” says, “Six large oysters are usually -allowed each person.” This error should be corrected in future -editions. Large raw oysters on the half-shell are only served at -oyster-counters to countrymen, and are not served at a dinner, no -matter how unpretentious or how elaborate the affair may be. - - -=How Oysters should be opened.=--In the author’s work on “Luncheon,” -reference is made to the great care which should be exercised in -opening oysters; and it will bear repeating. Reject all oysters opened -by the “smashing” process. The shells are not only broken and ragged, -but, should a person swallow a ragged splinter of oyster-shell, there -is great danger of its killing him. Insist on it that your oysters are -opened by the so-called “stabbing” process. - - -=How to serve Raw Oysters.=--If for a quiet family affair, where -“opened” oysters are used, keep the plates in ice-water, and dry them -before placing the oysters on them. For more pretentious affairs, but -where fancy oyster-plates are not a part of the dinner service, use -soup-plates. Fill them with fine cracked ice, place a dainty doily -over each, and set the oysters on top of the doily. The lemon should -be served on a side-dish, and not in the centre of the dish as though -one were dining in a restaurant. Four small Rockaways are sufficient -to serve at the ordinary course dinner. In nine cases are out of -ten, Rockaways are served instead of the Blue Points. It is therefore -advisable to order the former; the dealer might make a mistake if he -had them in stock, and send the latter. - -It is quite English to serve raw oysters on the flat half-shell, but it -is quite American to serve them on the deep shell. The American way is -the best. - - -=Collation Service.=--At evening collations, the oysters are served in -the centre of a block of ice. A clear, square block of ice is selected, -and a cavity or receptacle is made in it by the aid of a hot flat-iron -held close to the ice. If one has patience, the cavity may be shaved -out with an ice shave; if a pick is used, one is likely to split the -cake of ice. An ice boat is easily formed by holding a hot flat-iron to -a long piece of ice. Holes may be made through the bottom of the block -of ice, and filled with brilliant flowers; and the outer sides and top -should be handsomely decorated with flowers and smilax. If electric -lights are used in the house, it is an easy matter to place them in the -cake of ice: the effect is striking. The wires are carried from the -room below the dining-room, or under the carpet. - - -=How to eat a Raw Oyster.=--Avoid as much as possible the use of -condiments, when eating oysters. They were never intended as an -accompaniment of the oyster, and are only used by country people. -A suspicion of lemon; a dash of salt when the dealer has kept them -covered with cracked ice, and the descending ice-water washed out all -sea flavor; and, for palates grown callous, a dash of cayenne. Such -abominations as ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, etc., should never be -used. Do not bolt the oyster, but masticate it; and one will soon learn -to tell the different oysters by their different flavors. By bolting -them, one will never know how to thoroughly appreciate them. - - -=A Barrel of Oysters.=--Persons living away from the city are advised -to purchase oysters by the barrel. If kept with the deep shell down, -and in a cool place, they will live a long time. The novice is likely -to bruise fingers in vain attempts to open them; but, like carving, -the opening of oysters should be part of a man’s education. Then there -is the charm of roasting the oysters in the old-fashioned fire-place. -Here the novice may burn a finger or two, but then it’s fun for the -youngsters. - - -=Read this!=--In W. Mattieu Williams’s “Chemistry of Cookery,” I -find the following: “More than half a century has elapsed since Dr. -Beaumont published the results of his experiments on Alexis St. Martin. -These showed that fresh raw oysters required two hours and fifty-five -minutes to digest, and stewed fresh oysters three and a half hours for -digestion; against one hour for boiled tripe, and three hours for roast -or boiled beef or mutton.” - -The general impression among the people is, that raw oysters digest -almost as soon as they become of the same temperature of the stomach. - - - - -COOKED OYSTERS. - - -=Stewed Oysters.=--Boil half a pint of milk; add to it eleven -good-sized oysters, a walnut of butter, a dash of salt and of pepper. -Allow the milk to boil up just once, and serve. - -The average cook puts the oysters on first, and after they boil cold -milk is added. When the milk boils, the stew is served. The result -of such treatment of the oyster causes it to shrivel so that it is -hardly recognizable, and a good-sized oyster becomes a mere sprat. From -this process of cooking originated the ancient moth-eaten jokes about -church-fair stews. - -Cooked as in the foregoing recipe, the oyster retains its plump -characteristics. - - -=Philadelphia Fried Oysters.=--The author originally published this -recipe in the New York “Evening Sun” by request. - -The average New Yorker may call the City of Brotherly Love a sleepy -sort of a place, but it is wide enough awake gastronomically. It has -within its city limits cooks who prepare fried oysters that fairly -melt in one’s mouth. They are so delicate that there is not a pang of -dyspepsia in a whole winter’s supply of the toothsome dainties. The -reputation of Finneli’s Philadelphia fried oysters extends from Maine -to California; and immense sums have been offered for the recipe, but -its owner would not sell his secret at any price. - -Beat up three eggs thoroughly; add half a pint of oyster-juice, -a pepper-spoonful of cayenne, a saltspoonful of black pepper, a -tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of English mustard. Work -the mixture to a batter, and gradually add a gill of oil. Now comes -the more particular part of the formula. Cover a board or part of a -table with a layer of cracker-crumbs half an inch deep. Drain fifty -oysters free from liquid, place them on the cracker-crumbs, and -dredge over them more cracker-crumbs. See to it that one oyster is -not on top of another. Pick up each oyster by its beard, and dip it -in the batter. Have ready a quantity of bread-crumbs grated from the -white part of stale bread; spread this out on the table, and after -the oysters have been dipped in the batter lay them carefully on the -bread-crumbs two inches apart. After they are all spread out, turn them -over neatly, which will bread-crumb the other side. Dip them in the -batter again by taking hold of the beard, and again spread them out on -the bread-crumbs. Under no circumstances place one oyster on top of -another, or in any way press them together; this would make them heavy. -When the fat is so hot that the smoke from it would light a match, then -fry them by again taking hold of the beard, one at a time, and dropping -them into the fat. When they are dark brown, take them up, and strew -over them a quantity of salt. - -The secret is in carefully handling the oyster after it has been -breaded. How differently New York restaurants serve fried oysters! -In almost every eating place in the city, one sees piles of oysters -covered with a batter that plainly shows the cook purposely pressed -them between his hands. When served they look more like liver-pads than -human food. Nothing short of a human ostrich could possibly digest -them. The Philadelphia oyster, however, is a culinary poem. - - -=Curry of Oysters.=--Put an ounce of butter in a pan; add to it a -teaspoon of curry-powder, and water enough to prevent burning. Put -fifteen oysters in just water enough to cover them, simmer three -minutes, and drain; thicken the broth with a teaspoonful of flour, salt -to taste, stir this into the curry; add the oysters, simmer a moment, -and serve with boiled rice. - - -=Pickled-Oyster Omelet.=--Rinse six spiced or pickled oysters in cold -water. Divide an ounce of butter into little balls, and roll them in -flour; put them in a saucepan, heat gradually, and whisk to a cream; -add a gill of hot water, salt and pepper. Cut the oysters in two, -and add to the butter. Prepare an omelet in the usual manner; before -folding, add the oysters; turn out on a hot dish, and serve. - - -=Deviled Oysters on Toast.=--Mix together a heaping saltspoonful of -mustard flour, half a saltspoonful each of white pepper and salt, and -the yolk of one egg. Dip six oysters in the paste, then in fine crumbs, -and broil over a moderate fire. When done, arrange on toast, and -squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon. - - -=Pickled Oysters.=--A few pickled oysters may be served instead of -clams during warm weather. Scald a quart of oysters a moment, drain, -and put them in jars. To a pint of oyster liquor, add half a pint of -hot water and half a pint of hot vinegar; pour over the oysters; add -three cloves, four whole peppers, a small bit of mace, and a slice of -lemon, to each jar. This will be sufficient for two ordinary fruit-jars. - - -=Scalloped Oysters.=--Put in the bottom of a yellow dish two ounces of -sweet butter, divided into little pieces. Add a layer of raw oysters, -and cover them with cracker-dust or bread-crumbs, and add salt and -pepper to taste; another layer of oysters, and so on until the dish is -full, the last or top layer to be crumbs, and between each layer there -should be a small amount of butter. Moisten the ingredients with a -liberal quantity of oyster liquid, put small butter balls on top of the -dish, and bake a delicate brown color. Oysters were formerly baked in a -scalloped or shell-shaped dish, hence the name. - - -=Oyster Salad.=--Boil two dozen small oysters for five minutes in water -enough to cover them; add a little salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar; -drain and cool. Put into a salad-bowl the centre leaves of two heads of -cabbage lettuce, add the oysters whole, pour over them a mayonnaise; -garnish with oyster-crabs, hard-boiled eggs, and, if liked, a few -anchovies cut into fillets. - - -=Plain Fried Oysters.=--As a rule, fried oysters are not served as -a breakfast dish, owing to the coating with which they are usually -surrounded. Served plain, however, they are quite acceptable. Dry them -well in a napkin, and roll them in a little flour to insure that they -are quite dry, then cook them in a very little hot dripping. - -Miss Parloa’s “New Cook-Book” says, “a quart of oysters is enough for a -party of ten” (p. 118). There are from twenty to twenty-five oysters in -a quart, rarely more than this. - - -=Oyster Toast.=--Select fifteen plump oysters; chop them fine, and add -salt, pepper, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Beat up the yolks of two eggs -with a gill of cream; whisk this into the simmering oysters. When set, -pour the whole over slices of buttered toast. - - -=Oyster Omelet.=--Stew six oysters in their own liquor for five -minutes; remove the oysters, and thicken the liquid with a walnut of -butter rolled in flour; season with salt and cayenne; whisk this to a -cream. Chop the oysters, and add them to the sauce; simmer until the -sauce thickens. Beat up four eggs lightly, and add a tablespoonful of -cream; turn out into a hot pan, and fry a light gold-color. Before -folding the omelet entirely, place the oysters with part of the sauce -within, and turn it over on a hot dish. The remainder of the sauce -should be poured round it. - - -=Oysters Broiled.=--Rub the bars of a wire broiler with a little sweet -butter; dry twelve large, plump oysters in a napkin, and place them on -the broiler; brush a little butter over them, and broil over a fire -free from flame and smoke. When done on both sides, arrange them neatly -on toast; pour a little well-seasoned melted butter over them, and -serve. - -Do not bread-crumb oysters intend for broiling. - - -=Tripe with Oysters.=--Tripe, when properly prepared by a simple -process, is very nutritious and easily digested. - -Cut up half a pound of well-washed tripe; simmer for three-quarters of -an hour in water slightly salted; take out the tripe; add to the broth -a little butter rolled in flour, salt and pepper; add a little more -flour if not thick enough. Return the tripe and a dozen oysters; simmer -for a few minutes longer, and serve. - - -=Oysters en Brochette.=--Select one dozen choice oysters; plunge them -into hot water a second to make them firm (this process is called -blanching), then drain, and dip them into melted butter; arrange them -on skewers with alternate layers of neatly sliced bacon; broil over a -moderate fire. When done, add maitre-d’hôtel butter to them, and serve -on the skewers. - - -=Fried Oysters.=--Beat up the yolks of four eggs with three -tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and season them with a teaspoonful of -salt and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up thoroughly. Dry -twelve fat oysters on a napkin; dip them in the egg batter, then in -cracker-dust; shake off the loose cracker-dust, dip them again in the -egg batter, and lastly roll them in fine _bread-crumbs_. Fry in very -hot fat, using fat enough to cover them. The oil gives them a nice -flavor. - - -=Oyster and Canned Salmon Pie.=--One pound of best canned salmon, one -pint of solid oysters, half a pint of oyster liquid; cover the bottom -of the dish with neat pieces of the salmon, season with salt and pepper -and an ounce of butter rolled in flour, add a few oysters, and so on -until the ingredients are used. Pour in the liquid of both, and cover -the top with paste. Bake in a moderate oven. There should be liquid -enough to have the ingredients moist when served. - - -=Oyster Patties.=--Roll out a pound of light puff-paste, half an inch -in thickness; cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter two inches in -diameter; press a small cutter one inch in diameter, on each round, -one-fourth of an inch deep. Place them on a buttered tin, brush a -little beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick oven. When done, -remove the centre and a little of the inside. Scald (or, as it is -called, blanch) three dozen oysters; drain. Put into a saucepan two -ounces of butter, whisk it to a cream; add a teaspoonful of flour, -stir free from lumps; add a heaping saltspoonful of salt, and a -pepperspoonful of white pepper; whisk into it half a pint each of hot -cream and the oyster liquor; allow it to simmer a few minutes and to -thicken; then add the oysters and a “squeeze” of lemon-juice; when hot -fill the shells, and serve. If nutmeg is not objected to, a little may -be used. - - -=Oysters à la Poulette.=--Blanch (scald) a dozen oysters in their own -liquor; drain them, and add to the liquor, salt, half an ounce of -butter, the juice of half a lemon, a gill of cream, and a teaspoonful -of dissolved flour. Beat the yolk of one egg, and add to the sauce. -Stir until the sauce thickens; place the oysters on a hot dish, pour -the sauce over them, add a very little chopped parsley, and serve. - - -=Pie of Oysters and Scallops.=--Take one pint of fresh scallops, and -wash them in cold water; drain, and dry them in a napkin. Cut a few -slices of fat bacon in strips small enough to insert the ends in a -larding-needle; lard the scallops with them, and dredge them slightly -with flour. Select one quart of fat oysters; line a baking-dish with -puff-paste; add the scallops and oysters in layers; season with salt, -pepper, and a dash of mace. Divide an ounce of butter into little -balls, roll them in flour, and put them between the layers; add the -oyster liquor. Cover with a top crust; bake forty minutes in a moderate -oven. - - -=Steamed Oysters.=--Wash and scrub the shells thoroughly, and rinse -them off in cold water. Put them in a steamer, large or deep shell -_down_. Put the steamer on top of a pot of boiling water; steam about -six minutes, or until the shells separate. Have ready a hot dish -containing melted butter seasoned with a dash of Worcestershire, -lemon-juice, salt and cayenne. Remove them from the steamer with gloved -hands, and pick out the oysters with a flat knife, saving all the juice -possible. Dip the oysters in the butter as you open them, and the -number one can eat is surprising. - - -=To serve Steamed Oysters.=--Steam them as in the foregoing recipe. At -each guest’s place at table have ready little saucers containing a -quantity of the hot melted butter. Remove the flat shell, and serve the -oyster in the lower shell; send about six oysters to each guest at a -time. - - -=Roast Oysters.=--Clean the shells thoroughly, and place them on the -coals in an open fire-place, or remove the top of range, and put them -on the live coals, until they snap open, which they will soon do. Care -must be exercised not to burn fingers. - -At evening, young folks like the fun of roasting oysters in the furnace -below stairs, and eating them from the shell as fast as the host can -open them. - - -=Baked Oysters.=--Clean the shells thoroughly, and fill a dripping-pan -with them, deep shell down. Look at them after ten minutes. If the -shells are all opened, they are cooked enough. Melted butter, nicely -seasoned, is the only sauce to serve with them. - - - - -CLAMS. - - -=Little-Neck Clams.=--From the first of September until the first of -May in the following year, the clam--which is richer in nutrition -than the oyster--is as meek and as gentle as a clam can be. Yet it -submits to all sorts of indignities from the oyster, and has never -been known to talk back during the period mentioned. After the first -of May, however, its manner changes, and it assumes metropolitan airs. -It lords it over the oyster as a bantam struts around a helpless foe; -and it plainly intimates to the oyster that moving-day was invented to -celebrate its departure. - -After May 1, the clam must be recognized as the _avant-coureur_ of -all dainty feasts. No summer dinner or supper of any pretensions -is considered complete without the small clam. All the small clams -in market are supposed to come from Little Neck, Long Island. Not -one-quarter of the supply comes from this locality. - - -=Soft Clams in Chafing-Dish.=--Select a dozen large Guilford clams, -wash them thoroughly, and plunge them into boiling water for a -moment. Drain and open them, and use the round plump part only. Put -in a chafing-dish a pat of butter, and when quite hot add a dash of -flour, and cayenne to suit the taste; add the clams, and when they are -slightly cooked add a gill of light sherry. Cover the dish, and allow -it to simmer five minutes. Have ready three slices of toast, put four -clams upon each slice, add a little of the hot sherry, and serve. - - -=Stewed Little-Neck Clams.=--Get two dozen freshly opened, _very_ small -clams. Boil a pint of milk, a dash of white pepper, and a small pat of -butter. Now add the clams. Let them come to a boil, and serve. Longer -boiling will make the clams almost indigestible. - - -=Soft Clams.=--Select a dozen soft-shell clams; wash them well; remove -the shells; trim off the tough neck; place each clam on a half-shell, -and add to each half a teaspoonful of finely-chopped bacon, a little -cayenne, a very small bit of onion, and a pat of butter rolled in -flour; strew over the top a little grated Parmesan cheese, and bake to -a delicate brown. Cracker-crumbs may be used instead of the cheese if -preferred. - - -=Soft-Shell Clams, Scalloped.=--Purchase a dozen large soft clams -in the shell, and three dozen opened clams. Ask the dealer to open -the first dozen, care being used not to injure the shells, which are -to be used in cooking the clams. Clean the shells well, and put two -soft clams on each half-shell; add to each a dash of white pepper and -half a teaspoonful of minced celery. Cut a slice of fat bacon into -the smallest dice, add four of these to each shell, strew over the -top a thin layer of cracker-dust, place a pat of table butter on top, -and bake in the oven until brown. They are delightful when properly -prepared. - - -=Clam Toast.=--Chop up two dozen small clams into fine pieces; simmer -for thirty minutes in hot water enough to cover them. Beat up the yolks -of two eggs; add a little cayenne and a gill of warmed milk; dissolve -half a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold milk; simmer all together; -pour over buttered toast, and serve. - - -=Clam Broth.=--Procure three dozen Little-Neck clams in the shell; wash -them well in cold water; put them in a saucepan, cover with a quart -of hot water; boil fifteen minutes; drain; remove the shells; chop up -the clams, and add them to the hot broth with a pat of butter; salt -if necessary, and add a little cayenne; boil ten minutes, pour into a -soup-tureen, add a slice of toast, and send to table. This is the mode -adopted when we do not have a clam-opener in the house. - -Raw, freshly opened clams should be chopped fine and prepared in the -manner above described. The large clams are better for chowders than -for stews and broth. - - -=Clam Fritters.=--Chop medium fine twenty-five large quahaugs, or -seventy-five Little Necks. To a pint of flour add the beaten yolks of -three eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, -a dash of cayenne, and an ounce of melted butter. Mix well, and make a -batter by adding about a gill of milk. Add the clams, and if the batter -is too thick add a little of the clam broth. To make them light, beat -the mixture well; drop spoonfuls in hot fat, and fry brown, as you -would doughnuts. - - -=Fried Soft Clams.--=Select half a dozen of large Guilford clams. -Remove the shells, and trim off the dark tough parts. Cut into dice a -quarter of a pound of salt pork, and fry it. In the pork-fat fry the -clams, but first dredge them with flour. Serve with a slice of broiled -or fried fat pork. - - - - -CRABS. - - -=Hard-shell Crabs.=--The common blue crab is the species of the crab -family which we are most familiar with. We remember how rapidly they -darted away from us when we pointed the net towards them, when on our -summer vacation. We also have vivid recollections of their anxiety to -shake hands with us when in captivity. - -Hard crabs are to be had during almost the entire season, and the -average price asked for them is $3.00 per hundred. Those found in -market in winter were raked out of the mud, where they had buried -themselves until the advent of warm weather. - -Select a dozen hard crabs, and rinse them well in fresh water. Have -ready a kettle two-thirds full of boiling water, slightly salted; -plunge them into it, and boil them for about twelve minutes; drain, and -when cool put them in the ice-box to become cold. - -After the theatre, return home for supper, instead of patronizing the -restaurant, and serve the crabs with sandwiches of buttered bread. A -light sauterne may be served with them, if not objected to. - - -=Crab Patties, Cream Sauce.=--Roll out a pound of light puff-paste, -half an inch in thickness. Cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter two -inches in diameter. Press a small cutter one inch in diameter, on each -round, one-fourth of an inch deep. Place them on a buttered tin, brush -a little beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick oven. When done, -remove the centre, and a little of the inside. - -Put into a saucepan half an ounce of butter, half an onion minced, -half a pound of minced raw veal, and a small carrot shredded. Toss -about for two or three minutes to fry, but not to color; then add -two tablespoonfuls of flour. Mix it well with the other ingredients, -and add three pints of hot water, a pint of boiling cream, half a -teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Simmer one -hour, and strain into a saucepan. Add to each pint of it half a gill -of warm cream. Place back on range again, and simmer until reduced -enough to coat the spoon, then strain into a crock, and whisk until -it is cold. This is done to prevent the formation of a thick top. At -this season of the year this is an excellent sauce to have on hand -for patties, white fish sauces, and also for meat sauces. When wanted -for patties, melt an ounce of butter. While whisking it, gradually -add a pint of the sauce. Mix it with a quart of prepared crab-meat, -obtainable at the grocer’s. When hot, fill the shells with it. - - -=Soft-shell Crabs.=--When the blue crab is desirous of increasing -his growth, he sheds his shell, and for a short period is perfectly -helpless. The male usually retires to a secluded spot out of the reach -of eels and other enemies, but the female soft shell is protected by a -male companion whose shell is hard. At Sheepshead Bay these are called -elopers or double crabs. As the tide changes, the soft shell begins to -harden, when it is called “paper-shell,” shedder, or feeler. Before -reaching its normal condition, the crab is called a buckler, and is -only used as bait. - - -=The Care of Soft Crabs.=--Soft crabs require delicate handling and -much care. They deteriorate rapidly after leaving the water, and are -often killed in transit by the sudden jarring of the train. If a little -care is exercised, they may be kept alive from six to ten days. First -select vigorous crabs, remove them from the crate, and give them a -bath in water slightly salted. Clean the crate thoroughly, renew or -wash the seaweed which accompanies them. Strew over the bottom of -the crate a layer of the seaweed, and place the crabs in the crate -in layers, faces upward with side spines touching each other, and -alternated with layers of seaweed. When the crate is full, cover it -with more seaweed, sprinkle salt water over all, and set the crate in -a dark, cool place. Sprinkle salt water over them from day to day, and -renew the bath and fresh sea-tangle about every other day. Treated -this way, they will keep in the hottest weather. One of the principal -objects in covering them with seaweed is to keep the light from them. -Sudden flashes of lightning, if seen by them, would frighten them to -death. Their sensitive organization cannot even stand the rumbling -of thunder, and they should be stored away where they cannot hear it -distinctly. The only care required in cleaning them for the table is to -remove the feathery gill-like formations under the side spines, and the -sand-pouch. Soft crabs are too delicate morsels to cover with batter. - - -=Crabs, Soft-shell.=--These should be cooked as soon as possible after -being caught, as their flavor rapidly deteriorates after being exposed -to the air. Select crabs as lively as possible; remove the feathery -substance under the pointed sides of the shells; rinse them in cold -water; drain; season with salt and pepper; dredge them in flour, and -fry in hot fat. - -Many serve them rolled in eggs and cracker-dust; but thus they are not -as good. - - -=Crab Croquettes.=--Take one pound of crab-meat; gently press out -the juice, and put it in a bowl with a tablespoonful of fine crumbs, -half a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, a dash of -anchovy essence, the yolks of two eggs, and a very little cold water. -If the eggs are not enough to make it the proper consistency, bind the -ingredients together, and place on ice until wanted; then work into -corks or cone-shaped forms, dip them in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and -fry in hot fat. - - -=Crab Patties, à la Bechamel.=--Prepare the shells the same as for -oyster patties (which see). Put into a saucepan half an ounce of -butter, half a medium-sized onion minced, half a pound of minced raw -veal, one small carrot shredded; toss about for two minutes to fry, -but not to color; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir it about with -the vegetables; then add three pints of hot water, or if convenient -use hot soup-stock instead; add a pint of boiling cream. Season with -half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Simmer -one hour, and strain into a saucepan. Add to each pint of sauce half -a wineglassful of cream. Simmer until reduced enough to coat a spoon; -strain it again into a crock, and whisk it until cold, to prevent a -thick top from forming. When wanted for patties, or any thing else, -boil one pint of it with an ounce of butter, whisking it thoroughly. -Prepare a quart of solid crab-meat, either picked from the shells or -purchased already prepared; add it to a pint of the sauce; strew in a -few shredded mushrooms: fill the crab-shells with this, and serve. On -fast-days, omit veal and stock from meats, and use milk instead. - -[This very excellent sauce was named after the Marquis de Bechamel, a -worthless court-lounger and steward under Louis XIV. Why his unsavory -memory has been perpetuated by a gastronomic monument of worth, is -one of those inexplicable historical facts that students of the art -of cookery are continually stumbling upon. The close observer will -not fail, however, to discover that nearly all dishes named after old -French celebrities were stolen bodily from old Venetian and Provençal -books of cookery, and were re-baptized after some of the most notorious -profligates of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Many of these -old cook-books, like “Opusculum de Obsoniis de Honesta Voluptate,” a -volume printed at Venice, 1475 (the first cookery-book published), and -others, contain recipes almost identical with French cookery of the -past few centuries.] - - -=Crabs, à l’Américaine.=--Pick out the meat from the shells of four -dozen boiled hard-shell crabs; squeeze out the water gently; put the -meat in a bowl, and add the yolks of two raw eggs, salt, cayenne, and -a very little chopped parsley, and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; -roll the mixture into small balls or cakes; dip in egg batter, roll in -cracker-crumbs, and fry to a delicate brown. They may be served plain -or with tomato sauce. - - -=Crabs, Deviled.=--Pick out the meat of four dozen boiled hard-shell -crabs, put it into a bowl, and add a half-pint of mayonnaise. Mix -carefully with your hand; wash a dozen of the shells, put a little of -the mixture into each; grate a loaf of dry bread, season a pint of it -with salt and pepper, sprinkle it over the crabs evenly; make twelve -little balls of butter about the size of hickory-nuts; put one on top -of each crab, and bake in a quick oven. - - - - -SCALLOPS. - - -The scallop-shell is familiar to even the children who have visited the -seashore, and the novice wonders why so small a tidbit should require -so large a shell. The edible part of the scallop is only the powerful -central muscle by which the mollusk opens and closes its shell. The -medium-sized scallops are the best. The very large and very white -variety are more than likely to have been inflated and bleached by the -aid of saleratus. - -Scallop-shells were extensively used in ancient cookery, and gave to -various dishes the prefix “scalloped.” - - -=Scallop Broth.=--The peculiar flavor of scallops is quite attractive -to the convalescent, and a broth made from them is nourishing; but -care should be exercised in selecting the shell-fish. To improve their -appearance, shippers add quantities of saleratus to the scallops, which -has the effect of bleaching them, and increasing their size: this -custom may please the dealers, but not consumers. Select medium-sized -scallops of a natural creamy color, wash them, and cut them into small -pieces. To half a pint of these, add half a pint of warm water and half -a pint of milk, a “pea” of butter, and a pinch of salt; simmer for -twenty minutes; strain and serve. - -A pint of milk and no water may be used if the patient desires it. - - -=Small Patties of Scallops.=--Wash a pint of scallops, drain, cut -them up, and scald them; then put them in just milk enough to prevent -burning. Add salt and white pepper, simmer until quite tender, and -thicken with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in cold water. Pour -this mixture in small patty-shells (see recipe for oyster patties), and -serve after the soup and before the fish, or as an entrée. - - -=Fried Scallops.=--Rinse a pint of scallops in cold water slightly -salted, then dry them in a napkin, and dredge them slightly with flour. -Fry them in pork-fat. Egg batter and crumbs are not recommended. - - -=Scallops en Brochette.=--Drain twenty-four medium-sized scallops in a -napkin. Parboil them a moment. When cool arrange them on four skewers, -six on each, alternated with thin slices of bacon the size of the -scallops in width. Brush over the scallops a little melted butter, and -broil. When done, serve with tufts of watercresses and lemon. - - -=Stewed Scallops.=--Scald fifteen scallops, and put them into a stewpan -with half a pint of boiling milk, a dash of cayenne, and a saltspoonful -of salt. Just before serving, add very little table butter. - - - - -MUSSELS. - - -=The Mussel= is called the poor man’s oyster; but why the poor should -have a monopoly of this very useful shellfish, the writer is at a -loss to comprehend. During warm weather the spiced mussel is a treat: -it may have the honor of ushering in a family dinner instead of the -clam, and at collations and suppers it should be welcome. As they may -be purchased at from eighteen to twenty-five cents per quart, it is a -waste of time to pickle them at home, unless living at the seashore. - - - - -THE LOBSTER. - - -=Remarks on the Lobster.=--It takes a lobster about five years to -arrive at maturity, or over ten inches in length. The spawning season -depends upon the temperature of the water. Along the Sound, the season -begins in June, and ends in September. - - -=The Season for Lobster.=--Lobsters are at their best before the -spawning season. They are then filled with roe, or coral as the red -spawn is called by some. This is a great delicacy, and is highly -esteemed by epicures. After the spawning season, which is late in the -summer, they are in very poor condition, and should not be offered for -sale until cool weather. - -The green part in the body of the lobster is called the tom-alley by -New-England folks. It is excellent eating. - -The external spawn adhering to the tail of the female lobster, when -not highly developed, is edible, and is used in garnishing and making -lobster butter, paste, and cardinal-fish sauces. - -It is a curious fact, that the lobster changes or re-makes a shell -from eight to ten times the first year, five to seven the second, -three to four the third, and from two to three the fourth year. So -says Professor G. O. Sars of Norway, about the European lobster, whose -habits agree more or less closely with those of the American lobster. - - -=Soft-shell Lobster not edible.=--After the fifth year the change of -shell is only annual. A soft-shell or shedder lobster, unlike the -soft-shell crab, is not edible, and if eaten is likely to produce -ill effects. In a soft condition the lobster itself is sick, and is -therefore unfit for food. - - -=Selecting Lobsters.=--Always select a firm shell, of a deep dark-green -color. Light-colored, thin-shelled lobsters are likely to be lean and -poor. When plunged into the boiling water, the joints contract, and -the tail draws under, provided the lobster was alive at the time of -immersion. If dead when boiled, the tendons are relaxed, the claws -hang loosely, the tail will not possess a spring-like tenacity when -straightened out. Select the former, and reject the latter. - - -=Value of the Lobster as Food.=--According to Professor Atwater of -Middletown, Conn., the nutritive value of the flesh of the lobster, -compared with beef as a standard and reckoned at 100, is 61 to 97. -Forty per cent of the lobster is edible, the remainder is shell and -waste. - - -Buckland says, “That phosphorus exists in large quantities, may be -easily proved. A lobster in hot weather, when it ceases to be fresh, -assumes a highly phosphorescent appearance when seen in the dark, -equal if not superior to that of a glow-worm or luminous centipede. -This light increases by friction.... The presence of phosphorus in the -lobster is of great importance to the consumers of these sea luxuries. -There is no substance which conveys phosphorus so readily into the -human system in an agreeable form, and which the system so readily and -quickly assimilates, as the flesh of crabs and lobsters.” - - -=Broiled Lobster.=--Select alive and active lobster not less than ten -and a half inches long. (If below this measurement, the dealer should -be arrested for breaking the law which protects the lobster.) Split it -in two lengthwise, which instantly kills it. Remove the entrail through -the fleshy part of the tail, and the crop or stomach near the head. -This done, there are two ways of preparing it for table. One is as -follows:-- - -Remove the flesh from the tail, and brush over it a little melted -butter or olive-oil; broil it gently, but not too well done. Heat the -shell, put the meat back in the shell again, add more butter, salt, -pepper, and serve on hot plates. The body parts may be boiled, and -furnish dainty pickings for a late meal. - -The other way is that which is generally adopted by restaurants. Brush -a little butter over the entire half of the green lobster; broil the -shell side thoroughly first, then turn, and broil the other. Serve with -maitre-d’hôtel sauce. - -A lobster that has once been boiled and then broiled is so thoroughly -over-cooked as to be very indigestible. - - -=Lobster Croquettes, with Pease.=--Boil one-half pint of milk, thicken -it with a tablespoonful of flour, and let it become cold. Mince the -meat of a one-pound can of lobster, or one pound of fresh lobster; -when very fine, add a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of -white pepper. Moisten the lobster mince with the thickened milk, and -work the whole to a paste; add very little bread-crumb if too thin; let -it become amalgamated over the range, and place in the ice-box until -wanted; then shape it into neat rolls or cones; dip them in egg and -crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat. Arrange the forms neatly on a -dish, put round them a border of pease, and serve. - - -=Lobsters en Brochette.=--Instead of boiling the lobster-tails, cut -them in pieces, and arrange these on small skewers, alternated with -small pieces of bacon; brush melted butter over them, and either broil -or bake them; serve with sauce tartare (which see on p. 84). - - -=Deviled Lobster.=--Take two live lobsters, remove the tails, split -them in two, and make several incisions in them crosswise. Mix together -half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful each of dry mustard and -curry, and half a saltspoonful of white pepper, add a tablespoonful -of oil; mix, spread it over the lobsters, and broil them. When done, -return to the shells, which should have been kept hot for the purpose; -pour a little melted butter over them, and serve. - - -=Stewed Lobster, à la Créole.=--Remove the tail part of the meat -from three green lobsters; split them in two lengthwise; remove the -thread-like intestine. Melt an ounce of butter in a deep frying-pan; -add the lobster; toss it for a few minutes in the butter; add salt and -pepper and half a pint of hot water; cover, and simmer three-quarters -of an hour; drain, and reduce the water one-half by rapid boiling. Put -in a saucepan half an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of minced -onion; fry brown, and add three peeled and sliced tomatoes, one sweet -pepper, four okra pods cut small, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Allow -these to cook fifteen minutes, add the broth, and simmer until reduced -to a pulp; rub through a sieve; put this _puree_ on a hot dish, place -the lobster on top, add a little lemon-juice, and serve. - - -=Curry of Lobster.=--Remove the meat from two boiled lobsters, cut it -into neat pieces; take all green fat and coral, and set them aside; -mix the green fat with a heaping spoonful of curry-powder. Squeeze -out the juice of three limes, and add to it half a teaspoonful of -powdered sugar. Put into a frying-pan an ounce of butter; when creamed -add a teaspoonful of minced onion browned a little; now add the mixed -curry-powder; dissolve a teaspoonful of rice-flour in cold water, add -this to a pint of hot water or soup-stock, simmer until thick; now add -the lobster, and simmer twenty minutes longer. Wash and dry the coral, -separate it. Prepare a border of rice on a dish, and over it sprinkle -the coral and eggs (if any); pour the curry in the centre, and serve. - - -=Lobster Salad.=--Take two live hen (female) lobsters; boil them -thirty minutes; drain. When cold, break them apart; crack the claws, -and if the tail-fins are covered with eggs remove them carefully. -Take out the sand-pouch found near the head; split the fleshy part -of the tail in two lengthwise, remove the small long entrail found -therein. Adhering to the body-shell may be found a layer of creamy fat; -save this, and also the green fat in the body of the lobster (called -tom-alley by New-Englanders), and the coral. If celery is used, tear -the lobster into shreds with forks; if lettuce, cut the lobster into -half-inch pieces. Place the salad herb in a bowl, add the lobster and -the fat, and pour over it a rich mayonnaise; garnish with the claws -and heads, tufts of green, hard-boiled eggs, etc. The lobster eggs may -be separated, and sprinkled over the mayonnaise. The coral is used for -coloring mayonnaise, and also butter, which is then used in decorating -salmon and other dark fish used in salads. - - - - -THE OYSTER CRAB. - - -The little crab found in the oyster is not, as commonly supposed by -two-thirds of the oyster-eating community to be, the young of the -blue crab; but it is a distinct species. It is a messmate of and -caterer to the wants of the oyster, being therefore a benefit instead -of a detriment to the latter. In return for the oyster’s kindness in -protecting it against its enemies, the little crab catches and crushes -food which in its entire state could not be taken by the oyster. A -singular thing in connection with them is, that all found inside of -the oyster are females. The male of the same variety is found in the -neighborhood, but its shell is firm. - -Oyster-crabs are found at the grocer’s, put up in half-pint bottles, -which retail from 60 to 75 cents each. At the markets they are sold at -$2.50 per quart. - - -=To Serve Oyster Crabs.=--Put on a small saucer a crisp but dry leaf of -lettuce, and put in the centre of each leaf a scant tablespoonful of -the oyster crabs. Add a scant teaspoonful of mayonnaise to each, and -serve as a whet before a ladies’ collation, or at an afternoon luncheon. - - -=Oyster-Crab Omelet.=--This is a most tempting dish. Roll an ounce of -butter into little balls, dredge these with flour, put them in a pan, -and when they begin to melt whisk them; do not let it brown; add a gill -of hot water, and simmer until thick; now add half a pint of oyster -crabs, salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat up four eggs thoroughly, and -make them into an omelet; just before folding, add the crabs, and serve. - - -=Oyster-Crab Sauce.=--Add a tablespoonful of oyster-crabs to half a -pint of drawn butter, sauce hollandaise, or in fact any white or cream -fish-sauce, and serve with boiled fish. - - -ACKNOWLEDGMENT. - -The writer is deeply indebted to Prof. George Brown Goode’s compilation -and reports of the “Fishery Industries of the United States,” for much -of the natural history of fish and shell embodied in this work. - - - - -SHRIMPS. - - -The common shrimp, which is caught in immense quantities along our -coast all summer, and used for bait, is a dainty which summer residents -should not neglect. When a shrimp salad is wanted, however, the servant -is sent to the nearest grocer for a can of Southern shrimp, and the -delicious morsel at their very door is used to feed the fishes. The -trouble seems to be, that servants dislike the trouble of picking them -out of their transparent shells. - -Summer hotels would buy the native shrimp if fishermen would take the -trouble of offering them. No more appetizing or appropriate garnish for -lobster salads and for portions of boiled fish can be imagined than -the little home shrimp properly boiled. A plunge into the hot water is -about all the cooking they need. - - -=Market Price of Shrimps.=--Cooked and shelled shrimps are to be had -in our markets during warm weather, for from thirty to fifty cents per -quart. Canned shrimps retail for from thirty to forty cents per can, -and $3.50 per dozen. Rinse them in fresh water before using them. - - -=Shrimp Omelet.=--Toss half a pint of canned or fresh shrimps in a -little hot butter for a moment; add a little salt and pepper and a -tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Prepare the omelet, and just before -folding add the shrimps, and serve. - - -=Shrimp Sauce.=--Cut up the shrimps into halves, add them to a creamy -fish sauce of any kind; mix and serve. - - - - -PRAWNS. - - -Scientifically there is a difference between the prawn and the shrimp; -but it need not be considered by the housewife, except that the prawn, -that comes to this market from the South already cooked and shelled, is -larger than the shrimp, and a little stronger flavored. - -The shrimps and prawns are found in salt and brackish water, while the -crayfish are inhabitants of fresh water. - - -=Curry of Prawns.=--Prawns are at their best served as a curry. Boil -two quarts of live prawns thirty minutes, drain when slightly cooled, -break away the shells, and set them aside. Put two ounces of butter -in a frying-pan; when very hot add a clove of garlic and one sliced -apple; brown slightly, remove the garlic, and add a dessertspoonful of -curry-powder mixed with a gill of water; stir, and add half a pint of -soup-stock and half a teaspoonful of flour; now add the prawns, and the -juice of half a lemon in which a lump of sugar has been dissolved. Pour -out on a hot dish, and send to table with rice croquettes. - - -=Prawns, Deviled, en Coquille.=--Simmer a quart of prawns fifteen -minutes in water flavored with a little sharp vinegar; drain, and cut -them very fine. Add two ounces of butter, a gill of water, salt and -pepper, the yolks of two eggs, and bread-crumbs to absorb the moisture. -Mix to a paste. Partly fill the shells, cover with crumbs, add a small -pat of butter to each, and bake to a delicate brown. - - -=Prawns, Sauté, à la Marengo.=--Wash one pint of “shelled” prawns, -simmer them twenty minutes, drain, and toss them a moment in a little -hot olive-oil; remove them, add a sprig of parsley, half a dozen button -mushrooms, a gill of hot water, salt and pepper, and thicken with a -little flour. Put the prawns on a dish, pour the sauce over them, -garnish with fried eggs and slices of tomatoes fried. - - -=Prawn Salad.=--Take one quart of prawns and one quart and a pint of -cut celery; put the celery in a bowl; add the prawns; garnish neatly, -and serve with a mayonnaise. - - - - -CRAYFISH. - - -The crayfish are inhabitants of fresh-water streams; and they bear a -striking resemblance to the lobster in appearance, spawning habits, -shedding their shell, etc. Their season begins early in the spring, and -lasts until cold weather. During a bountiful supply of these delicious -shell-fish, large quantities are packed away in ice-houses for winter -use, when there is a big demand for them from caterers who use them -as garnishment, and for salads and sauces. They cost from three to -four dollars per hundred in the New-York markets. Those that come from -Milwaukee are highly esteemed; and, as they are already cooked, they -may be used at luncheon, and on fast-days as salads. A crayfish salad -is an enjoyable dish. - - -=Crayfish Omelet.=--Rinse half a pint of crayfish tails in salted -water, and drain them; then split each tail in two lengthwise, and -remove the thread-like intestine found therein. Toss them about a -moment in a little butter and tablespoonful of broth or gravy; season -with a dash of cayenne. Make a four-egg omelet, and just before folding -add the crayfish. - - - - -SALMON. - - -=Salmon Steak.=--Put into fast boiling water, salted, a slice of fresh -salmon, and boil for five minutes quite rapidly; then set on back of -the range where it will simmer for fifteen minutes longer. Drain, and -place it on a napkin surrounded with a border of parsley. On the two -ends of the platter place slices of lemon. Serve with a sauce in a -sauce-boat. Drawn butter with a few prawns or shrimps cut up in it is a -nice sauce for salmon. - - -=Canned Salmon.=--The canning of salmon at the source of supply has -been of lasting benefit to mankind, for we are now able to procure -a pound of salmon in any quarter of the globe for a reasonable sum. -Canned salmon has one advantage over the fresh fish: it does not -deteriorate, and lose its flavor. Those who have tried it say they -do not get surfeited with canned salmon, although many of the same -individuals dislike the fresh salmon owing to its richness, and on this -account rarely eat it. - - -=Salmon Patties.=--This is a very nice way of serving salmon at -luncheon. Open a pound can of salmon, drain, add to the small amount of -salmon liquid sufficient water to make a gill, season it with salt and -pepper, and, if on hand, add a little anchovy paste. Beat up the yolks -of two eggs with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little cold -water or milk: add the gill of water, place it on the range to become -hot and thick, whisking it meanwhile; break the salmon into pieces, -and add to the sauce. When quite hot, fill the patty shells with it, -and serve. A very rich sauce may be made by the addition of butter and -cream. - -The patty shells are made as follows: Roll out some very light -puff-paste, half an inch thick; stamp it in rounds with a three-inch -cutter, press a small cutter in the middle of each round to the depth -of quarter of an inch; put the rounds on a buttered tin, brush a little -beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick oven. When done, remove the -centre, scoop out a little of the inside, and the shells are ready for -the mixture. - - -=Salmon Surprise.=--Boil two quarts of potatoes with their jackets on. -When done, peel and mash them with butter and warm milk. Arrange a -border of potatoes on a flat, oval dish. In the centre of this put a -pound of canned or cold salmon separated into neat-sized pieces, salt, -pepper, a very little mace, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; cover -the salmon with a layer of raw oysters; add a little oyster-liquor, -cover the oysters with a thin smooth layer of mashed potato, and brush -the beaten yolk of egg over all. Then make a small hole in the centre, -and place the dish in an oven hot enough to brown the outside quickly. - - -=Salmon à la Créole.=--Scald and put three large tomatoes to simmer -in very little water, until tender: chop up very fine a sweet Spanish -pepper and quarter of an onion; fry these in a little bacon fat; add -the tomato, salt, and little white pepper. Simmer until reduced to a -pulp. Open a pound can of salmon; set the can in a saucepan half full -of hot water, turn the salmon out on a dish. When it is quite hot, pour -the pulp over it, and serve. Canned tomatoes may be used instead of -fresh tomatoes. - - -=Salmon Pie.=--Cut up four boiled potatoes into neat pieces; cut half -a pound of boiled salt pork into dice; divide a pound of canned salmon -into symmetrical pieces; roll out quarter of a pound of puff-paste, cut -it into squares, and roll each of these into a little ball. Arrange -these ingredients alternately in a deep yellow dish, season with salt -and pepper, add hot water or gravy to prevent burning, cover the top -with paste, make a hole in the centre, and bake in a moderate oven. - - -=Salmon in Jelly.=--Take one gallon of clear soup, and boil it down to -a quart. Soak a teaspoonful of gelatine in cold water, and add to the -reduced soup to make sure that it will be stiff when cold. - -Take a two-quart tin mould, set it on ice, and pour enough of the -liquid in it to cover the bottom. Let this become firm. Cut into -slices, and then into diamonds, boiled beets, white turnips, and cold -boiled tongue; dip each into the liquid, and place them in the mould -in a very neat and artistic manner; when they become firm, spread over -them a layer an inch thick, of cream-mashed potato; now add a pound of -canned salmon, and pour round the edges and on top the remainder of the -reduced soup, and set the mould in a very cold place to become firm. -When wanted, dip the mould into hot water quickly, and turn it out. -This is an excellent dish for collations, wedding breakfasts, etc. The -potato must be made rich with butter and milk, and beaten to a light -consistency before being placed in the mould. Any other kind of cold -fish will answer quite as well as salmon for this and other dishes -herein mentioned. - - -=Salmon Omelet.=--Separate half a pound of canned salmon into flakes, -season with salt and pepper, a little lemon-juice, and add a little of -the liquid; heat it a little, whip up the eggs for an omelet, prepare -it as usual, and just before completing the fold add the salmon; then -turn it out on a hot dish. - - -=Salmon, German Style.=--Boil two quarts of sauerkraut; drain it, and -pile it on a hot dish; have ready a pound of canned salmon hot; make a -hole in the centre of the kraut, insert the fish, simmer and season the -salmon liquid, pour it over the dish, and serve. - - -=Salmon à l’Italienne.=--Boil half a pound of macaroni in water -slightly salted; drain. Heat a can of salmon in hot water; turn it out -on a dish; arrange the macaroni round it; pour over the macaroni the -contents of a pound can of tomato-pulp (hot), sprinkle over this a -little grated Parmesan cheese, and serve. - - -=Salmon à la Hollandaise.=--Heat a pound of canned salmon in the -original can; turn it out on a hot dish, garnish neatly, and pour over -it the following sauce: Cream two ounces of butter, whisk into it the -yolks of two beaten eggs, add a little salt and white pepper, and half -a teaspoonful of strong vinegar; put the pan in a larger one containing -hot water, whisk it until it thickens, and just before serving add a -little lemon-juice. - - -=Salmon, Hunter’s Style.=--One of the best dishes I have ever eaten -while hunting was prepared as follows: Take three one-pound cans of -salmon (save the liquid), and divide into neat pieces; make a dough -as for milk biscuits: divide half of it into little balls; take one -box of sardines; put a layer of sliced bacon in the bottom of a gallon -crock; add a layer of salmon, a few dough balls, two sardines, salt, -cayenne. Continue arranging in alternate layers until the ingredients -are all used; add a wineglassful of vinegar to the salmon liquid, and -if there is not enough add a little water; cover the top with the -remainder of the dough, and tie one or two thicknesses of white cloth -over all. Dig a hole deep enough to be lined with mud or stones and to -receive the crock; build a fire in and over it (the smoke will keep off -the mosquitoes). When reduced to coals, scoop out the ashes and coals -from the hole, cover the cloth with mud, set the crock in the hole, -and cover up with the hot ashes; let it remain three hours, and a more -satisfactory dish cannot be imagined. - - -=Bouillabaisse.=--This celebrated dish was immortalized by Thackeray. -Put into a frying-pan a gill of olive-oil, a clove of garlic minced, -a tablespoonful of chopped onion, two cloves, six peppercorns; when -slightly brown, add one pound of canned salmon and the salmon liquid in -the can; add a little salt, a bit of bay leaf, three slices of lemon, -a pint of tomato pulp, a pinch of curry-powder or saffron, a gill of -Rhine wine, with water enough to cover the fish: simmer twenty minutes. -Line a deep dish with toast, remove from the pan all seasoning in -sight, pour the contents of the pan on the toast, and serve. - - - - -CODFISH. - - -=Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce.=--The only thing that can be urged -against this most excellent fish is its homely name. Were it not so -cheap, its good qualities would rapidly find favor at all gastronomic -entertainments where palate-pleasing dishes are appreciated. Put the -fish into boiling water, slightly salted; add a few whole cloves and -peppers, and a bit of lemon-peel; pull gently on the fins, and when -they come out easily the fish is done. Arrange neatly on a folded -napkin, garnish, and serve with oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every -pound of fish, and scald them in a half-pint of hot oyster liquor; take -out the oysters, and add to the liquor, salt, pepper, a bit of mace, -and an ounce of butter; whip into it a gill of milk, containing half of -a teaspoonful of flour. Simmer a moment; add the oysters, and send to -table in a sauce-boat. - -A four-pound fish should cook in about forty minutes. - - -=Codfish Tongues.=--Wash four codfish tongues thoroughly in cold water; -put them on the range in hot water, slightly salted, and boil thirty -minutes; drain; arrange neatly on a folded napkin placed upon a hot -dish; garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, and send to table with -cream sauce. - - -=Codfish Steak.=--Select a medium-sized fresh codfish, cut it in steaks -crosswise of the fish about an inch and a half thick; sprinkle a little -salt over them, and let them stand two hours. Cut into dice a pound of -salt fat pork, fry out all the fat from them, and remove the crisp bits -of pork; put the codfish steaks in a pan of corn-meal, dredge them with -it, and, when the pork-fat is smoking hot, fry the steaks in it to a -dark brown color on both sides. Squeeze over them a little lemon-juice, -add a dash of freshly ground pepper, and serve with hot, old-fashioned, -well buttered johnny-cake. - - -=New-England Codfish Balls.=--Shred the codfish the night before, and -soak it over night; drain quite dry on towel next day. Mash fine one -pound of hot boiled potatoes. Take an equal amount of codfish, and -divide it very fine. Mix both together, and add the beaten yolks of two -eggs, two ounces of melted butter, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. -Now beat the mixture until it is very light, for upon this process -depends the success or failure of the dish. In shaping them together, -do not press them any more than is absolutely necessary. Most cooks -press them into cakes so hard that it is next to an impossibility to -eat them. Dredge them lightly with a little flour, and fry them like -doughnuts in smoking hot fat. When properly prepared and cooked they -should fairly melt in the mouth, which they will do if thoroughly -beaten and lightly handled. - - -=Baked Cod.=--When purchasing a four-pound cod, ask your fish-dealer -to send you three “codfish-heads;” and as soon as the basket comes -into the house, rub a little salt on the fish, chop the heads into six -pieces each, and sprinkle a little salt over them. Place them in the -centre of the baking-pan (to be used as supports for the fish), with a -gill of water. Set the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod. - -Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of bread to fill the fish; -drain off the water, and pound the bread to a paste; mix with it two -tablepoonsfuls of melted butter, two raw eggs, a tablespoonful of -Worcestershire sauce, with salt and pepper to taste. Put this stuffing -inside the fish, and sew it up; place the cod in the pan with two or -three pieces of butter on the upper side of the fish, and baste it -frequently; when it is cooked, lay the fish on a hot platter, and -garnish with fried oysters if convenient. Add a tablespoonful of brown -flour to the pan, a wineglass of claret; mix, and strain the gravy into -a sauce-boat. Time to cook, one hour. - - -=Salt Codfish with Cream.=--Soak one pound and a half of salt codfish -over night. Next morning set the fish to simmer for about two hours; -drain off the water, and strip the fish into shreds; place it in -a saucepan with a quart of milk and two ounces of butter; mix a -tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and add to -the fish. Let the whole come to a boil; remove the dish from the fire, -beat up one egg to a froth, add it to the fish, stir, and serve. - - -=Scrod.=--Small codfish no larger than our tomcod are called scrod in -Eastern Massachusetts. After they have been corned over night, they are -broiled and fried. - - - - -BROOK TROUT. - - -Cultivated trout may be purchased at from sixty to seventy-five cents -per pound, and wild trout from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per -pound, after April first. There are many house-keepers who will not -purchase the latter, thinking that as they are cheaper, they cannot be -so good as the more expensive trout. Cultivated trout are only trout -in name and outside appearance, and no more compare in flavor with the -wild trout than chalk does with cheese. They are fattened (not allowed -to feed naturally) on cheap animal food that destroys all trout flavor; -and they live in artificial streams or ponds, acquiring a peculiar -swampy flavor which is decidedly objectionable. - -The wild trout lives in clear running streams, fed from never-ending -springs; here he finds a beautiful supply of food furnished by nature’s -generous hand, instead of the refuse of the butcher furnished to his -more aristocratic brother. Besides being superior in every way, the -wild trout is always cheaper. - -Shippers of trout often pack their speckled beauties in moss, which -injures their flavor materially; and the housekeeper is obliged to let -them stand in cold water, slightly salted, to extract the flavor of the -moss. This is a good plan to follow, by the way, when the trout are -frozen, as nearly all wild trout are in the early spring. - - -=Brook Trout, Sportsman Style.=--Clean and rinse a quarter-of-a-pound -trout in cold spring water; dry it in a towel. Cut half a pound of salt -pork into small pieces; put these into a thoroughly clean frying-pan; -fry out the clear fat, and remove the small pieces of pork. Rub a -little fine table-salt in the inside of the fish, and when the pork-fat -is smoking hot, add the fish to it; turn it three times before it is -done. When nicely browned, serve it on a hot dish, and send it to the -table without adding condiments of any kind. Should you be able to -procure fresh butter, a little may be put on the fish before it is -served, but it must be of the very best quality. - - -=Broiled Trout.=--The foregoing is a recipe for cooking trout -immediately after catching them. After they are brought to our city -markets from distant mountain streams, however, they are most toothsome -when broiled over a declining fire, and require a seasoning of salt, -pepper, and a little lemon-juice mixed with the sweetest of sweet -butter. Serve with hot plates. - - -=Brook Trout, Baked.=--Trout weighing a pound or over are best -when served baked, though many sportsmen will not listen to this -proposition. The outside of a large trout is almost ruined in broiling -before the centre of the fish is cooked. Do not split the fish down the -back. Take half a pint of fine grated bread-crumbs, and soak them in -a little milk; squeeze out the milk; add two ounces of table butter, -a saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, the -juice of a quarter of a lemon, and the slightest sprig of thyme; add -the yolk of one raw egg; mix; open the trout just enough to clean it -properly; remove the gills (leave the heads on), fill the cavity with -the stuffing, and sew it up carefully. Put the fish in a tin, on top -of it place small bits of butter previously rolled in flour, place it -in a good oven, and bake with the back toward the hottest part of the -oven. The length of time it will take to cook properly is from twenty -to thirty minutes, very often a little longer, for much depends on the -temperature of the oven. - - -=Brook Trout, Boiled.=--To boil trout seems an outrage; but when -one receives a large quantity of them, and there is danger of their -spoiling if not immediately used, put four small trout properly cleaned -into a saucepan, cover them with claret, add a slice of lemon, two -cloves, four whole peppers, the least bit of mace, and a heaping -saltspoonful of salt. Simmer slowly three-quarters of an hour; remove -the saucepan from the range, and when cold take out the fish, put them -in a dish, and pour the boiled wine over them. Serve at luncheon or -collations. - -The head, tail, and fins of trout should not be removed before cooking. - - - - -MISCELLANEOUS. - - -=Catfish, Fried.=--Catfish and waffles is a combination dear to the -hearts of Philadelphians, and the road-houses near that city are -celebrated for cooking them. Select the fish already cleaned, as it -is a troublesome job to clean them, and pick out the white instead of -the red catfish; rub a little salt along the backbone on the inside, -and let the fish stand over night. Next day dredge them with corn-meal -or flour, and fry in a little fat; sprinkle salt and pepper over them -before serving. - - -=The Tenderloin Trout.=--Large catfish are caught in Southern rivers; -and while they are fair eating, they are not popular with the whites in -the vicinity of New Orleans. The restaurant people, however, cut the -fish into pieces an inch square and about four inches long; these are -dipped in egg, rolled in crumbs, and fried and served as tenderloin -trout. - - -=Fricasseed Eels.=--Cut up three pounds of eels into pieces of three -inches in length; put them into a stewpan, and cover them with Rhine -wine (or two-thirds water and one-third vinegar); add fifteen oysters, -two pieces of lemon, a bouquet of herbs, one onion quartered, six -cloves, three stalks celery, a pinch of cayenne, pepper and salt to -taste. Stew the eels one hour; remove them from the dish; strain the -liquor. Put it back into the stewpan with a gill of cream and an ounce -of butter rolled in flour; simmer gently a few minutes, pour over the -fish, and serve. - - -=Eel Patties.=--Take three medium-sized eels, and cut them up into -inch pieces. Put them in a stewpan, add salt, and cover them with cold -water. When the water comes to a boil, take them off the fire, wash -them in cold water, scrape off any fat that may adhere, return them to -the stewpan with just enough hot water to cover them, and add a blade -of mace, a bay leaf, a few whole peppers, a few sprigs of parsley, and -one lemon cut into slices. Stew gently until the fish will separate -from the bone; remove the fish from the broth, pick it into small -pieces, and set them aside; reduce the broth a little, strain, and -thicken with flour and butter. Return the fish to the broth, simmer a -moment, fill your patties, and serve; make patty-shells as directed for -oyster patties. - - -=Stewed Eels, Hoboken Turtle Club Style.=--Cut into three-inch pieces -two pounds of medium-sized cleaned eels. Rub the inside of each piece -with salt. Let stand half an hour, then parboil them. Boil an onion in -a quart of milk, and remove the onion. Drain the eels from the water, -and add them to the milk. Season with half a teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, salt and pepper, and the slightest suspicion of mace. Simmer -until the flesh falls from the bones. - -Fried eels should be slightly salted before cooking them. Do not cover -them with batter, but dredge them with just flour enough to absorb all -moisture, then cover them with boiling fat, as for doughnut cooking. -Many New England families use corn-meal to dredge them with instead of -flour. - -Eels _en matelotte_, or sailor fashion, are appreciated by many. Cut -them into three-inch pieces, and salt them. Fry an onion brown in a -little dripping; add half a pint of broth to the brown onion, part -of a bay leaf, six broken peppercorns, four whole cloves, and a gill -of claret. Add the eels to this, and simmer until thoroughly cooked. -Remove the eels, put them on a hot dish, add a teaspoonful of browned -flour to the sauce, strain, and pour over the eels. - - -=Pan Bass, Anchovy Butter.=--During February, March, and the first part -of April, there may be found in market a variety of bass which much -resembles the Oswego bass. They come from the Carolinas and Virginia, -and are excellent eating. Let them stand an hour in salt water, then -drain and wipe dry, and fry them in tried-out salt-pork fat. Serve them -with a butter made as follows: Mix together a teaspoonful of anchovy -paste with a tablespoonful of sweet butter, and, if not objected to, -add a few blades of chopped chives. - -The chive has the flavor peculiar to the onion family, but in a mild -form. It is cultivated by truck gardeners, and may be found on the New -York vegetable stands as early as January. The retail price at the -first of the season is ten cents a tuft; as it becomes more plentiful, -it is offered at five cents. - -Placed in the kitchen, it grows luxuriantly,--in fact, it grows faster -than it can be used by a small family. This very useful herb should be -in the kitchen window of every home where soups and salads are rightly -appreciated. - -The chive grows wild in nearly all of the Middle and Eastern States, -and the first green spot seen in our parks is more than likely to be -chives. Cows eat it, and their milk has a slight garlic flavor. The -garlic flavor in milk is decidedly objectionable; yet the early Dutch -settlers planted the chives in the pastures for the cows to eat, -thereby imparting to the milk this peculiar flavor. - - -=Fillet of Flounder, Tartar Sauce.=--Cut the flesh from the bone -lengthwise, and then cut each piece into strips an inch wide. Dip them -in beaten egg. Roll them in cracker-crumbs, and fry in hot fat enough -to cover them. This dish appears on our French bills-of-fare as _filet -de sole_. Serve with _sauce tartare_. - - -=Fried Tomcods.=--These delicate, sweet-flavored pan-fish are called -frost-fish by dealers, but the fishermen along the Hudson call them -“Tommies.” Whatever name they are known by, they are delicious morsels -when fresh caught. Clean them without removing the heads, dry them in -a napkin, and salt their insides, dredge them with a little flour, -and fry them crisp in hot smoking fat. Put the clean fish into a -baking-tin. Over each fish place a thin slice of bacon, add salt and -pepper, and bake them twenty minutes in a hot oven. - - -=Broiled Salt Codfish.=--Cut half of a small codfish into medium-sized -square pieces; split them in two, and soak them over night in cold -water. Drain, and dry them in a napkin, next morning. Rub a little -butter over each piece, and broil them. Place them on a hot platter, -and pour a little melted butter over them. - -Drawn butter is sometimes served with this dish. It should be very -smooth looking, and have a starchy appearance. Divide three ounces -of butter into little balls. Dredge them with flour. Put one-fourth -of them into a saucepan, and when they begin to melt, whisk to a -smooth consistency. Now add one more of the floured balls, and whisk -thoroughly until incorporated with the first. Repeat this process -until all are used. When smooth and thick, stir in a teaspoonful of -lemon-juice, and, if liked, a little chopped parsley. - - -=Broiled Salt Mackerel.=--“I like salt mackerel, but it does not -agree with me,” is a remark often heard in nearly all classes of -society. Many imagine they can eat cured fish with the same degree of -recklessness and lack of regard for dietetic laws which they often -show in eating more digestible food. They soon discover, however, that -something is radically wrong; just where the blame rests, is a matter -they settle to their own satisfaction by declaring that salt mackerel -was not intended for civilized people, because they are unable to eat -it without experiencing disagreeable after-effects. - -Salt mackerel is really wholesome food, but, like all cured food, is -not so digestible as when fresh: it is therefore necessary to restore -it as near as possible to its original freshness. This is done by a -thorough soaking in a liberal quantity of fresh water. There is no -danger of the fish becoming too fresh; if it does, it is an easy matter -to add fresh salt, which is much more acceptable than condensed brine. - -In selecting salt mackerel, examine them carefully. If rusty in -appearance reject them, “for rust in fish, if I am not mistaken, is -as bad as rust in steel or rust in bacon.” Large fish are likely to -be poor and coarse; a medium-sized or No. 2 is the most profitable -provided the white or under part of the fish is fat. After soaking -thoroughly, rub a little melted butter or olive-oil over them, and -broil not too close to the fire; do not cook them enough to dry up all -moisture, as they would then be unpalatable. After broiling, plunge -them into boiling water for a moment to swell them,--this treatment -gives the fish the appearance of being fat,--place on a hot plate, add -a little melted butter, a dash of pepper, and finally the juice of half -a lemon. - -To avoid the unpleasantness referred to, drink all liquids first, -before eating a mouthful of the fish; masticate the food thoroughly -and slowly, and the result will be surprising. Those who eat salt fish -alternated with mouthfuls of liquid must expect the oily particles to -rise up, and create a gastronomic disturbance. - - -=Fried Porgies with Salt Pork.=--The much-abused porgy is one of the -sweetest of pan-fish. Select four good-sized porgies, and clean them, -but do not remove the heads. Cut into small dice a quarter of a pound -of fat salt pork, fry out the fat, and when it is very hot fry the fish -in it. While they are cooking, broil four small thin slices of the -pork, and serve by placing them on top of the fish. Pork gives a more -delicate flavor to the fish than bacon. - - -=Fish Curries.=--Cold boiled or baked fish is simply a luxury when -warmed up in a delicious curry sauce. This dish may be served at -breakfast or luncheon. Americans are fast learning the usefulness of -curry-powders; as yet they demand a mild form of curry, and a little -flour is added to the sauce to tone down the pungency of the curry. - - -=A Plain Fish Curry.=--Fry an onion quite brown in a little butter or -oil, add a teaspoonful of curry-powder and half a pint of hot water. -Dissolve a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold water; when free from -lumps add it to the sauce, then strain; divide the cold fish into -flakes, and warm it up in the sauce. - - -=Curry of Scallops.=--Wash a quart of scallops in cold water, drain, -put them in a saucepan, and let them simmer gently one hour. Blanch two -ounces of sweet almonds, remove husks, and fry a delicate brown; drain -from the hot butter, and pound to a paste with a clove of garlic, the -grated rind of a lemon. Mix two teaspoonfuls of curry, a little sauce, -and an ounce of butter, put it in the frying-pan, and add gradually -one half-pint of the scallop broth and the almond paste. Now add a -pint of hot milk; simmer until the liquid is reduced one-third, add the -scallops, and serve. - - -=Curry of Crayfish.=--These may be purchased by the quart at all -seasons. They are already boiled. Prepare the curry sauce as above -described, add the crayfish, and serve with rice; over all squeeze the -juice of a sweet orange. - - -=Curry of Eels, with Rice.=--Cut into two-inch pieces one medium-sized -eel or two small ones; put them in a saucepan, and cover with boiling -water; add a little salt, a piece of lemon-peel, and a tablespoonful -of vinegar; boil slowly one hour, and drain. Cut up a small onion, and -fry it brown in a little butter; add a pint of the water in which the -fish was boiled, and a teaspoonful of walnut catsup. Mix together a -teaspoonful of flour with a gill of cold water, rub it smooth, and add -a teaspoonful of dry curry-powder. Mix, and add it to the pan, strain, -and return to the pan; then add the eels; simmer fifteen minutes, and -serve surrounded by a border of boiled rice. - - -=Curry of Shad Roe.=--Fry half an onion very brown in a heaping -teaspoonful of dripping; add a teaspoonful of curry-powder, and a few -moments later add a gill of hot water; simmer five minutes, and add -a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little water. When it begins to -thicken, strain. While preparing the sauce, boil two roes in water well -salted. When done, place them on a hot platter, and pour the sauce over -them. - - -=Curry of Frogs’ Legs.=--This is an excellent dish. Wash one pound -of frogs’ legs in cold water; brown one-fourth of an onion in oil or -butter; add a teaspoonful of curry and a pint of hot water; pour this -in a saucepan, and add the frogs; simmer an hour and a half, and drain. -Mix a teaspoonful each of rice-flour and curry to a paste, with the -broth; add salt to taste, and half a pint of milk. Place on the range, -and when hot add the frogs. Blanch two dozen sweet almonds; rub off -the skins, split them, and toss them about in hot butter; season with -pepper and salt; when done squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, and -send to table on separate dish with the curry. - - -=Broiled Weakfish.=--When freshly caught, this is an excellent fish -and well flavored; but it loses its flavor when kept on ice more than -a day, and the flesh becomes soft and spongy. In color the weakfish is -of a bluish-gray, with faint speckled back and sides, belly white, the -fins yellow. It is in season from May to October, and is best-flavored -in the latest two months of that time. Select a medium-sized fish for -broiling; see that the flesh is firm, the eyes bright, and the gills -a bright red, and free from a soft, flabby appearance. Place the -well-cleaned whole fish on the table or fish-board, back towards you; -make an incision close to the head, down to the bone; hold the head -firmly with the left hand, and cut the fish in two lengthwise, keeping -the knife close to the bone the whole length of the fish; remove the -bone. (The bone and head may be boiled a few hours, seasoned, and -the broth used in fast-day soups.) Cut each piece of fish in two, -crosswise; rub on a little sweet oil or melted butter; broil the outer -side first, then the inner side, and serve with this side upwards on -the hot dish; pour over the fish well-made drawn butter (which see). - - -=Baked Whitefish, Bordeaux Sauce.=--Clean and stuff the fish. Put it in -a baking-pan, and add a liberal quantity of butter, previously rolled -in flour, to the fish. Put in the pan half a pint of claret, and bake -for an hour. Remove the fish, and strain the gravy; add to the latter -a gill more of claret, a teaspoonful of brown flour, and a pinch of -cayenne, and serve with the fish. - - -=Halibut, Egg Sauce.=--Select a three-pound piece of white halibut, -cover it with a cloth, and place it in a steamer; set the steamer over -a pot of fast boiling water, and steam two hours; place it on a hot -dish, surrounded with a border of parsley; and serve with egg-sauce, -which is made as follows:-- - - -=Egg Sauce.=--Cream an ounce of butter; add to it one tablespoonful of -dry flour, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of white -pepper (black pepper spoils its color). Stir it briskly, and add half -a pint of hot water. Divide an ounce of butter into little balls, roll -them in flour, and add them one at a time; stir constantly, and care -should be exercised not to allow the sauce to brown or discolor. Chop -three cold hard-boiled eggs, and add them to the sauce; let it heat -thoroughly, and serve in a boat. - - -=Fried Butterfish.=--These flat, slate-colored little fish are -excellent when quite fresh; and as they are easily cleaned, they are -recommended to house-keepers. Fry them in tried-out salt-pork fat, -which gives them a very nice flavor. - - -=Broiled Shad.=--The secret of having the fish juicy, and at the same -time properly cooked, is to rub a little olive-oil over it before -broiling, and broil it over a fire free from smoke or flame. Charcoal -affords the best fire. The sulphurous fumes of hard coal injure the -flavor of the fish. When done, have ready a little sweet butter melted -and mixed with salt, white pepper (black pepper spoils the looks of the -fish), half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley to two ounces of butter, -and the juice of half a lemon. Place the fish on a hot dish, pour the -hot sauce over it, and serve with hot plates. - - -=Baked Shad.=--Broiling is, next to planking, the best way of cooking -this excellent fish; but a baked shad is not to be despised. Prepare it -as follows:-- - -Make a stuffing of soaked bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, and salt; place -it lengthwise in a pan; roll walnuts of butter in flour, and put four -to six of them on top of the fish; fill the space around the fish with -inch slices of raw potato, and bake forty minutes. When done, serve -potatoes and fish together. - - -=Shad Roe à la Poulette.=--Cover a pair of roes with water slightly -salted; add a tablespoonful of vinegar and a slice of lemon; simmer -twenty minutes, and drain; put into a saucepan an ounce of butter; when -it begins to melt, whisk it, and add the juice of half a lemon. - -Beat up the yolk of one egg with a gill of cream containing half a -teaspoonful of flour rubbed free from lumps; whisk this gently into the -warm butter; keep it quite warm until it thickens, but do not boil, or -it will curdle. Pour it over the shad roes, strew over the top a trifle -of chopped parsley, and serve. - - -=Broiled Royans.=--These delicate little fish are excellent as whet at -dinner-parties, and may be served _au naturel_, or broiled, or served -on toast. Procure them from the nearest grocer, open the can carefully -to prevent breaking the fish, remove the skin, and broil them over a -slow fire; arrange them on toast, squeeze a little lemon-juice over -them, and serve. - - -=Broiled Sardines.=--When neatly prepared, this forms an excellent -breakfast or luncheon dish. - -Remove the sardines from the can without breaking them; scrape off the -skin, place them between double wire broilers, and broil to a delicate -brown; arrange neatly in a hot dish, squeeze a little lemon-juice over -them, and serve. Orange-juice is very nice with the above dish. - - -=Broiled Smelts, Sauce Tartare.=--Thoroughly clean half a dozen smelts, -split them in two, place them on a double wire broiler, and broil. Send -to table with _sauce tartare_, which is made as follows: Chop together -a few sprigs of parsley, six capers, one small pickle, a piece of -onion as large as a bean. Add these to half a pint of mayonnaise, mix, -and add a teaspoonful of French mustard, mix again, and serve. - - -=Smelts Fried, Sauce Tartare.=--Clean six small smelts, leave on the -heads, dip them in beaten egg, roll them in fine cracker-dust, and fry -in very hot fat. Serve with sauce tartare. - - -=Broiled Whitefish.=--The whitefish is one of the best of summer fish, -but does not stand long transportation very well. See that the flesh is -firm, and free from flabbiness. Cut the fish in two lengthwise, remove -the backbone, divide each piece in two; brush over it a little sweet -butter or olive-oil, and broil over a moderate fire for ten minutes. -Place it in a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, add salt -and pepper and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Garnish with tufts of -parsley and thin slices of lemon, and serve. - - -=Sheeps-head with Drawn Butter.=--The Englishman who wrote the -extraordinary statement that sheeps-head sometimes sold for “four or -five pounds sterling in New York” may be pleased to learn that the -price for this excellent fish is fifteen to eighteen cents per pound -on an average, and that the best mode of preparing it for table is to -boil or steam it, although broiled sheeps-head is very good. - -Procure a medium-sized fish, clean it thoroughly, and rub a little salt -over it; wrap it in a cloth, and put it in a steamer; place this over a -pot of fast boiling water, and steam one hour; then lay it whole upon a -hot side-dish, garnish with tufts of parsley and slices of lemon, and -serve with drawn butter prepared as follows:-- - - -=Drawn Butter.=--Take four ounces of butter, and roll it into small -balls; dredge these with flour; put one-fourth of them in a saucepan, -and as they begin to melt whisk them; add the remainder, one at a -time, until thoroughly smooth; while stirring add a tablespoonful of -lemon-juice and half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; pour into a hot -sauce-boat, and serve. - - -=Broiled Sheeps-head.=--Split the fish in two lengthwise, and remove -the head and bone, brush over the fish a liberal quantity of melted -butter or oil, then broil over a fire free from flame or smoke. When -done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over the fish, then add salt, -pepper, and a pat of the choicest table butter. - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Other -variations in hyphenation, spelling and punctuation remain unchanged. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OYSTERS AND FISH*** - - -******* This file should be named 53521-0.txt or 53521-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/3/5/2/53521 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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(Thomas Jefferson) Murrey</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -h1 -{ - margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em; - text-align: center; - font-size: x-large; - font-weight: normal; - line-height: 1.6; -} - - h2,h3,h4 { - text-align: center; - clear: both; - } - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} - -p -{ - margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; -} - -.psub {margin-top: 1.5em; text-align: justify; margin-bottom: .75em;} - - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} - - .tdl {text-align: left;} - .tdli {text-align: left; padding-left: 2em;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; -} /* page numbers */ - - -div.hangsection p {text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 3em;} - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.xs {font-size: x-small;} - - -/* Images */ -.figcenter {margin: 1em auto; text-align: center;} -img {border: none; max-width: 100%} - - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - - h1.pg { margin-top: 0em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - font-size: 190%; - font-weight: bold; - line-height: 1; - clear: both; } - hr.full { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } - </style> -</head> -<body> -<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oysters and Fish, by Thomas J. (Thomas -Jefferson) Murrey</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: Oysters and Fish</p> -<p>Author: Thomas J. (Thomas Jefferson) Murrey</p> -<p>Release Date: November 13, 2016 [eBook #53521]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OYSTERS AND FISH***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (<a href="https://archive.org">https://archive.org</a>)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - <a href="https://archive.org/details/oystersfish00murr"> - https://archive.org/details/oystersfish00murr</a> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<h1> -<span class="smcap">Oysters and Fish</span></h1> - -<p class="center"><small>BY</small></p> - -<p class="center">THOMAS J. MURREY</p> - -<p class="center xs">AUTHOR OF “FIFTY SOUPS,” “FIFTY SALADS,” “BREAKFAST<br /> -DAINTIES,” “PUDDINGS AND DAINTY DESSERTS,” “THE<br /> -BOOK OF ENTRÉES,” “COOKERY FOR INVALIDS,”<br /> -“PRACTICAL CARVING,” “LUNCHEON,” “VALUABLE<br /> -COOKING RECIPES,” ETC.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" > -<img src="images/i001.jpg" alt="Colophon" /> -</div> - -<p class="center">NEW YORK<br /> -<span class="smcap"><small>Copyright, 1888, by</small></span><br /> -FREDERICK A. STOKES & BROTHER<br /> -1888</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> - - -<h2 id="DEDICATION">DEDICATION.</h2> - -<p class="center"> -<i>To the Inventor of the</i></p> - -<p class="center">SHELDON CLOSE-TOP GAS-STOVE,</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Who spent the best part of his life solving the<br /> -perplexed problem of Economy in Fuel and<br /> -Labor in our homes, and to those gentlemen<br /> -connected with gas companies, who assisted<br /> -and encouraged him, this little work is<br /> -most respectfully dedicated by</i></p> - -<p class="center">THE AUTHOR.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr> - <td align="right" colspan="2"><small>PAGE</small></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">INTRODUCTORY</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">THE OYSTER</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Oyster Season</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters out of Season</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters Preserved in Shell</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Food of the Oyster</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Formation of the Deep Shell</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Cock Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_15">15</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Green Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_15">15</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Banquet Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_16">16</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Ordering Oysters for the Family Table</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_17">17</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">How Oysters should be Opened</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_18">18</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">How to serve Raw Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_18">18</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Collation Service</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_19">19</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">How to Eat a Raw Oyster</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_19">19</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">A Barrel of Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_20">20</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Read This!</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_20">20</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">COOKED OYSTERS</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Philadelphia Fried Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_22">22</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Pickled-Oyster Omelet</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Deviled Oysters on Toast</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Pickled Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span><span class="smcap">Scalloped Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">25</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster Salad</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">25</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Plain Fried Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Miss Parloa’s “New Cook-Book”</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster Toast</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster Omelet</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters, Broiled</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Tripe with Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters en Brochette</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster and Canned Salmon Pie</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster Patties</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters à la Poulette</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Pie of Oysters and Scallops</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Steamed Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_30">30</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">To Serve Steamed Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_30">30</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Roast Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Baked Oysters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">CLAMS</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Little-Neck Clams</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft Clams in Chafing-Dish</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_32">32</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Little-Neck Clams</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft Clams</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft-shell Clams Scalloped</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Clam Toast</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Clam Broth</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Clam Fritters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span><span class="smcap">Fried Soft Clams</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">CRABS</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Hard-shell Crabs</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crab Patties, Cream Sauce</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_36">36</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft-shell Crabs</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_37">37</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Care of Soft Crabs</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crabs, Soft-shell</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_39">39</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crab Croquettes</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_39">39</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crab Patties, à la Bechamel</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_40">40</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crabs, à l’Américaine</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_41">41</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crabs, Deviled</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_41">41</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">SCALLOPS</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Scallop Broth</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Small Patties of Scallops</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Scallops</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Scallops en Brochette</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Scallops</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">MUSSELS</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Mussel</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">THE LOBSTER</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Remarks on the Lobster</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Season for Lobster</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft-shell Lobster not Edible</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Selecting Lobsters</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Value of the Lobster as Food</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Lobster</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_47">47</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Lobster Croquettes with Pease</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_48">48</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span><span class="smcap">Lobsters en Brochette</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_48">48</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Deviled Lobster</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_49">49</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Lobster, à la Créole</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_49">49</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Lobster</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_50">50</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Lobster Salad</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_50">50</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">THE OYSTER CRAB</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_51">51</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">To Serve Oyster Crabs</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster-Crab Omelet</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster-Crab Sauce</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Acknowledgment</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_53">53</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">SHRIMPS</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_53">53</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Market Price of Shrimps</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_54">54</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Shrimp Omelet</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_54">54</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Shrimp Sauce</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_54">54</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">PRAWNS</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_54">54</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Prawns</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Prawns, Deviled, en Coquille</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Prawns, Sauté, à la Marengo</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Prawn Salad</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">CRAYFISH</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crayfish Omelet</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">SALMON</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon Steak</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Canned Salmon</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon Patties</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_58">58</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon Surprise</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon à la Créole</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span><span class="smcap">Salmon Pie</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_60">60</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon in Jelly</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_60">60</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon Omelet</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon, German Style</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon à l’Italienne</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon à la Hollandaise</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_62">62</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon, Hunter’s Style</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_62">62</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Bouillabaisse</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">CODFISH</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Codfish Tongues</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_64">64</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Codfish Steak</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_64">64</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">New-England Codfish Balls</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_65">65</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Baked Cod</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_66">66</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salt Codfish with Cream</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_66">66</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Scrod</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_67">67</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">BROOK TROUT</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_67">67</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Brook Trout, Sportsman Style</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_68">68</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Trout</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_69">69</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Brook Trout, Baked</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_69">69</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Brook Trout, Boiled</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">MISCELLANEOUS</td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Catfish, Fried</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Tenderloin Trout</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_71">71</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fricasseed Eels</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_71">71</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Eel Patties</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Eels, Hoboken Turtle Club Style</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span><span class="smcap">Pan Bass, Anchovy Butter</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_73">73</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fillet of Flounder, Tartar Sauce</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_74">74</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Tomcods</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Salt Codfish</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Salt Mackerel</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Porgies with Salt Pork</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_77">77</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fish Curries</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">A Plain Fish Curry</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Scallops</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Crayfish</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Eels, with Rice</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Shad Roe</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Frogs’ Legs</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Weakfish</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Baked Whitefish, Bordeaux Sauce</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Halibut, Egg Sauce</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Egg Sauce</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Butterfish</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Shad</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Baked Shad</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Shad Roe à la Poulette</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Royans</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Sardines</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Smelts, Sauce Tartare</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Smelts Fried, Sauce Tartare</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">85</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Whitefish</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">85</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Sheep’s-head with Drawn Butter</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">85</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Drawn Butter</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_86">86</a> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Sheep’s-head</span></td> - <td align="right"><a href="#Page_86">86</a> </td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="INTRODUCTORY">INTRODUCTORY.</h2> - - -<p>Would it not be beneficial, were the average -American to substitute fish for the everlasting -steak and chop of the breakfast-table?</p> - -<p>For the sake of variety, if for no other reason, -we should eat more fish; and it need not -always be fried or broiled. A well-made fish -stew or a curry should be acceptable to the -majority of us, and undoubtedly would be if -appetizingly prepared.</p> - -<p>This little work does not by any means propose -to exhaust the subject of sea-food, for the -subject is almost inexhaustible; but it places -within the reach of all a series of recipes and -suggestions extremely valuable to the average -housewife.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="THE_OYSTER">THE OYSTER.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>The Oyster Season</b> opens in the city of -New York on the first day of September, and -closes on the last day of April in each year.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> -The annual amount of business done in the -oyster trade is close on to $5,000,000. Each -successive year witnesses an increase in the -business.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the R canon, there are thousands -of persons who eat oysters at the summer -resorts along the seashore throughout hot -weather.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oysters out of Season.</b>—The writer -does not recommend the eating of oysters out -of their season, no matter how fresh they may -be, or how appetizing they may appear.</p> - -<p>To supply the demands made upon them by -summer resorts, oyster-planters shift the oysters, -during the spawning season, from warm shallow -water to cold deep water. This checks or prevents -the oysters from spawning, and to all -appearance they are edible; but the writer -firmly believes that interfering with the laws -of nature affects the health of the oyster, and -they cannot be as wholesome as planters would -have us believe.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oysters Preserved in Shell.</b>—So long -as the oyster retains its natural juices, it will -live out of water, provided the changes in the -temperature are not too sudden. The moment -the oyster opens its shells, however, the juices -run out, and in a short time afterward the oyster<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span> -dies. To prevent the oyster opening its stony -overcoat, is the object of oyster-shippers; and -the Patent Office bears witness to their many -devices having this object in view. Some wire -the shells, others clasp or envelope the broad -end of the shells with tin or other metal. No -doubt these devices aid in keeping the oyster -alive and fresh a little longer. Whether the -nervous system of the oyster is affected by the -process, is a question. Scientists tell us that -oysters possess organs of sensation, and all -who have handled oysters learn in time that -a sudden jar or shock will kill them. The jar -of the machinery of a steamboat will sometimes -kill an oyster. When shipped to Europe -they are ordered to be stored as far away from -the machinery as possible. Some authorities -claim that the oyster can hear. One cannot -noisily approach an oyster-bed at feeding time -without their hearing, and instantly every shell -is closed. A cloud or a boat passing over an -oyster-bank will cause every shell to close with -proverbial tightness, and the sound of thunder -will often kill them while they are in transit,—conclusive -evidence that the nervous system -in an oyster, while not highly developed, is of -sufficient importance to merit attention from -those who roughly handle oysters.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span></p> - -<p class="psub"><b>The Food of the Oyster</b> consists of -minute animal and vegetable organisms and -small particles of organized matter. Ordinary -sea-water contains an abundance of this sort -of food, which is drawn into the gills with the -water. As the water strains through the pores -into the water tubes, the food particles are -caught on the surface of the gills by a layer of -adhesive slime. As soon as they are entangled, -the microscopic hair-like projections on the -gills strike against them in such a way as to -slide them along the gills toward the mouth. -When they reach the anterior ends of the gills, -they are pushed off, and fall between the lips, -which are also covered with thin hair-like projections, -which carry the particles forward until -they slide into the mouth. No wonder the -intelligent tramp wished that he might become -an oyster. His food would then come to him -in a sort of endless progression.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Formation of the Deep Shell.</b>—Although -the oyster lies upon the bottom with -one shell above and one below, the shells are -not upon the top and bottom of the body, -but upon the right and left sides. The two -shells are symmetrical in the young oyster; but -after it becomes attached, the lower or attached -side grows faster than the other, and becomes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span> -deep and spoon-shaped, while the free valve -remains nearly flat. In nearly every case the -lower or deep valve is the left.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Cock Oysters.</b>—There is a belief among -oyster-eaters, that the dark-gray or black oysters -are male oysters, and are therefore superior -to the female oyster. Such misinformation was -evidently promulgated by oyster-openers in anticipation -of a tip for serving selected oysters. -There is no truth in the assertion, however, for -there are just as many black female oysters as -there are black male oysters. There is no characteristic -color by which a male or cock oyster -can be distinguished from a female oyster. -Microscopic examination, or a scientific eye, is -the means of discovering the sex of an oyster.</p> - -<p>The black-oyster romance is of ancient origin. -The Roman oyster-smashers successfully -“worked it” on Pliny, Horace, and other -ancient writers and epicures.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Green Oysters.</b>—At least a million dollars -worth of oysters are annually destroyed in New-York -waters by sludge acid from the oil refineries -and illegal dumpings. The acid kills the -oysters the instant it touches them, and turns -them green. There is very little danger that a -poisoned oyster will reach the consumer, but the -loss to the planter is enormous.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span></p> - -<p>The green tint of the oyster, or in fact any -distinguished color the oyster may possess, is due -to the color of its food and to the nature of the -surrounding bottom. The bottom of the Shrewsbury -River is mud; the oysters take on a peculiar -tawny color from their muddy bed. Rockaway -oysters exist on a hard sandy bottom. If -the beds are covered with sea-lettuce, as they -often are, the oysters take on a delicate green -tint. When the lettuce is removed by a strong -tide or high wind, the oysters gradually assume -their white, slightly grayish color. Their shells -are round, thin, and brittle. The shells from -mud bottoms are long, narrow, thick, and -spongy. Intruded mud is enclosed by a thin -layer of pearly shell.</p> - -<p>The oyster epicure may rest assured of one -fact. No matter what the color of an oyster may -be, so long as it is alive and seasonable it is -wholesome. It cannot absorb enough foreign -matter to injure the epicure without committing -suicide, and there is no possible danger of any -one <i>swallowing</i> a dead oyster.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Banquet Oysters.</b>—As served at the average -public banquet, the raw oyster is a thing of -terror to appetite and to weak digestive organs. -When looking for one’s seat, where, through an -oversight, one is not furnished with a chart of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> -the tables, one beholds six very small emaciated -oysters. The heat in the room has absorbed -their moisture, afterwards the bed of fine ice on -which they were placed has melted, and the -water overflowed them, thereby finishing the work -of destruction. One must be under the influence -of the sherry and Vermouth of the reception-rooms, -to be willing to begin the feast with such -an introductory course. No wonder fashionable -society demands a substitute for the oyster as -the dinner season progresses. In the name -of humanity, order the oysters to table and -announce the dinner at the same time. Guests -are willing to wait a few moments for toothsome -oysters, provided they are direct from the ice-box.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Ordering Oysters for the Family -Table.</b>—Send the servant to the nearest -dealer, a few minutes before the oysters are -wanted, and let her wait for them. In this way -one is quite sure of procuring freshly opened -oysters. Many dealers begin opening oysters -for their family orders hours before they are -to be served; and the result is, they have lost -much of their juices before being served.</p> - -<p>Miss Parloa’s “New Cook Book” says, “Six -large oysters are usually allowed each person.” -This error should be corrected in future editions.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> -Large raw oysters on the half-shell are only -served at oyster-counters to countrymen, and -are not served at a dinner, no matter how unpretentious -or how elaborate the affair may be.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>How Oysters should be opened.</b>—In -the author’s work on “Luncheon,” reference -is made to the great care which should be -exercised in opening oysters; and it will bear -repeating. Reject all oysters opened by the -“smashing” process. The shells are not only -broken and ragged, but, should a person swallow -a ragged splinter of oyster-shell, there is great -danger of its killing him. Insist on it that -your oysters are opened by the so-called “stabbing” -process.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>How to serve Raw Oysters.</b>—If for -a quiet family affair, where “opened” oysters -are used, keep the plates in ice-water, and dry -them before placing the oysters on them. For -more pretentious affairs, but where fancy oyster-plates -are not a part of the dinner service, use -soup-plates. Fill them with fine cracked ice, -place a dainty doily over each, and set the -oysters on top of the doily. The lemon should -be served on a side-dish, and not in the centre -of the dish as though one were dining in a restaurant. -Four small Rockaways are sufficient -to serve at the ordinary course dinner. In nine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> -cases are out of ten, Rockaways are served instead -of the Blue Points. It is therefore advisable -to order the former; the dealer might make a mistake -if he had them in stock, and send the latter.</p> - -<p>It is quite English to serve raw oysters on the -flat half-shell, but it is quite American to serve -them on the deep shell. The American way is -the best.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Collation Service.</b>—At evening collations, -the oysters are served in the centre of a block of -ice. A clear, square block of ice is selected, and -a cavity or receptacle is made in it by the aid of -a hot flat-iron held close to the ice. If one has -patience, the cavity may be shaved out with an -ice shave; if a pick is used, one is likely to -split the cake of ice. An ice boat is easily -formed by holding a hot flat-iron to a long piece -of ice. Holes may be made through the bottom -of the block of ice, and filled with brilliant -flowers; and the outer sides and top should be -handsomely decorated with flowers and smilax. -If electric lights are used in the house, it is an -easy matter to place them in the cake of ice: -the effect is striking. The wires are carried from -the room below the dining-room, or under the -carpet.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>How to eat a Raw Oyster.</b>—Avoid as -much as possible the use of condiments, when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> -eating oysters. They were never intended as -an accompaniment of the oyster, and are only -used by country people. A suspicion of lemon; -a dash of salt when the dealer has kept them -covered with cracked ice, and the descending -ice-water washed out all sea flavor; and, for -palates grown callous, a dash of cayenne. Such -abominations as ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, -etc., should never be used. Do not bolt the -oyster, but masticate it; and one will soon learn -to tell the different oysters by their different -flavors. By bolting them, one will never know -how to thoroughly appreciate them.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>A Barrel of Oysters.</b>—Persons living -away from the city are advised to purchase -oysters by the barrel. If kept with the deep -shell down, and in a cool place, they will live a -long time. The novice is likely to bruise fingers -in vain attempts to open them; but, like carving, -the opening of oysters should be part of a -man’s education. Then there is the charm of -roasting the oysters in the old-fashioned fire-place. -Here the novice may burn a finger or -two, but then it’s fun for the youngsters.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Read this!</b>—In W. Mattieu Williams’s -“Chemistry of Cookery,” I find the following:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span> -“More than half a century has elapsed since -Dr. Beaumont published the results of his experiments -on Alexis St. Martin. These showed -that fresh raw oysters required two hours and -fifty-five minutes to digest, and stewed fresh -oysters three and a half hours for digestion; -against one hour for boiled tripe, and three -hours for roast or boiled beef or mutton.”</p> - -<p>The general impression among the people is, -that raw oysters digest almost as soon as they -become of the same temperature of the stomach.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="COOKED_OYSTERS">COOKED OYSTERS.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Oysters.</b>—Boil half a pint of -milk; add to it eleven good-sized oysters, a -walnut of butter, a dash of salt and of pepper. -Allow the milk to boil up just once, and -serve.</p> - -<p>The average cook puts the oysters on first, -and after they boil cold milk is added. When -the milk boils, the stew is served. The result -of such treatment of the oyster causes it to -shrivel so that it is hardly recognizable, and a -good-sized oyster becomes a mere sprat. From -this process of cooking originated the ancient -moth-eaten jokes about church-fair stews.</p> - -<p>Cooked as in the foregoing recipe, the oyster -retains its plump characteristics.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Philadelphia Fried Oysters.</b>—The author -originally published this recipe in the New -York “Evening Sun” by request.</p> - -<p>The average New Yorker may call the City of -Brotherly Love a sleepy sort of a place, but it -is wide enough awake gastronomically. It has -within its city limits cooks who prepare fried -oysters that fairly melt in one’s mouth. They -are so delicate that there is not a pang of dyspepsia -in a whole winter’s supply of the toothsome -dainties. The reputation of Finneli’s -Philadelphia fried oysters extends from Maine -to California; and immense sums have been -offered for the recipe, but its owner would not -sell his secret at any price.</p> - -<p>Beat up three eggs thoroughly; add half a -pint of oyster-juice, a pepper-spoonful of cayenne, -a saltspoonful of black pepper, a tablespoonful -of salt, and a teaspoonful of English -mustard. Work the mixture to a batter, and -gradually add a gill of oil. Now comes the -more particular part of the formula. Cover a -board or part of a table with a layer of cracker-crumbs -half an inch deep. Drain fifty oysters -free from liquid, place them on the cracker-crumbs, -and dredge over them more cracker-crumbs. -See to it that one oyster is not on top -of another. Pick up each oyster by its beard,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span> -and dip it in the batter. Have ready a quantity -of bread-crumbs grated from the white part -of stale bread; spread this out on the table, and -after the oysters have been dipped in the batter -lay them carefully on the bread-crumbs two -inches apart. After they are all spread out, turn -them over neatly, which will bread-crumb the -other side. Dip them in the batter again by -taking hold of the beard, and again spread them -out on the bread-crumbs. Under no circumstances -place one oyster on top of another, or -in any way press them together; this would -make them heavy. When the fat is so hot that -the smoke from it would light a match, then fry -them by again taking hold of the beard, one at -a time, and dropping them into the fat. When -they are dark brown, take them up, and strew -over them a quantity of salt.</p> - -<p>The secret is in carefully handling the oyster -after it has been breaded. How differently -New York restaurants serve fried oysters! In -almost every eating place in the city, one sees -piles of oysters covered with a batter that plainly -shows the cook purposely pressed them between -his hands. When served they look more like -liver-pads than human food. Nothing short of a -human ostrich could possibly digest them. The -Philadelphia oyster, however, is a culinary poem.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Oysters.</b>—Put an ounce of butter -in a pan; add to it a teaspoon of curry-powder, -and water enough to prevent burning. Put -fifteen oysters in just water enough to cover -them, simmer three minutes, and drain; thicken -the broth with a teaspoonful of flour, salt to -taste, stir this into the curry; add the oysters, -simmer a moment, and serve with boiled rice.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Pickled-Oyster Omelet.</b>—Rinse six -spiced or pickled oysters in cold water. Divide -an ounce of butter into little balls, and roll them -in flour; put them in a saucepan, heat gradually, -and whisk to a cream; add a gill of hot -water, salt and pepper. Cut the oysters in two, -and add to the butter. Prepare an omelet in -the usual manner; before folding, add the oysters; -turn out on a hot dish, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Deviled Oysters on Toast.</b>—Mix together -a heaping saltspoonful of mustard flour, -half a saltspoonful each of white pepper and -salt, and the yolk of one egg. Dip six oysters -in the paste, then in fine crumbs, and broil over -a moderate fire. When done, arrange on toast, -and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Pickled Oysters.</b>—A few pickled oysters -may be served instead of clams during warm -weather. Scald a quart of oysters a moment, -drain, and put them in jars. To a pint of oyster<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span> -liquor, add half a pint of hot water and half a -pint of hot vinegar; pour over the oysters; add -three cloves, four whole peppers, a small bit of -mace, and a slice of lemon, to each jar. This -will be sufficient for two ordinary fruit-jars.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Scalloped Oysters.</b>—Put in the bottom -of a yellow dish two ounces of sweet butter, -divided into little pieces. Add a layer of raw -oysters, and cover them with cracker-dust or -bread-crumbs, and add salt and pepper to taste; -another layer of oysters, and so on until the dish -is full, the last or top layer to be crumbs, and -between each layer there should be a small -amount of butter. Moisten the ingredients with -a liberal quantity of oyster liquid, put small butter -balls on top of the dish, and bake a delicate -brown color. Oysters were formerly baked in -a scalloped or shell-shaped dish, hence the -name.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oyster Salad.</b>—Boil two dozen small oysters -for five minutes in water enough to cover -them; add a little salt and a tablespoonful of -vinegar; drain and cool. Put into a salad-bowl -the centre leaves of two heads of cabbage lettuce, -add the oysters whole, pour over them a -mayonnaise; garnish with oyster-crabs, hard-boiled -eggs, and, if liked, a few anchovies cut -into fillets.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Plain Fried Oysters.</b>—As a rule, fried -oysters are not served as a breakfast dish, owing -to the coating with which they are usually surrounded. -Served plain, however, they are quite -acceptable. Dry them well in a napkin, and -roll them in a little flour to insure that they are -quite dry, then cook them in a very little hot -dripping.</p> - -<p>Miss Parloa’s “New Cook-Book” says, “a -quart of oysters is enough for a party of ten” -(p. 118). There are from twenty to twenty-five -oysters in a quart, rarely more than this.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oyster Toast.</b>—Select fifteen plump oysters; -chop them fine, and add salt, pepper, and -a suspicion of nutmeg. Beat up the yolks of -two eggs with a gill of cream; whisk this into the -simmering oysters. When set, pour the whole -over slices of buttered toast.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oyster Omelet.</b>—Stew six oysters in their -own liquor for five minutes; remove the oysters, -and thicken the liquid with a walnut of butter -rolled in flour; season with salt and cayenne; -whisk this to a cream. Chop the oysters, and -add them to the sauce; simmer until the sauce -thickens. Beat up four eggs lightly, and add a -tablespoonful of cream; turn out into a hot pan, -and fry a light gold-color. Before folding the -omelet entirely, place the oysters with part of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span> -the sauce within, and turn it over on a hot dish. -The remainder of the sauce should be poured -round it.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oysters Broiled.</b>—Rub the bars of a wire -broiler with a little sweet butter; dry twelve -large, plump oysters in a napkin, and place them -on the broiler; brush a little butter over them, -and broil over a fire free from flame and smoke. -When done on both sides, arrange them neatly -on toast; pour a little well-seasoned melted -butter over them, and serve.</p> - -<p>Do not bread-crumb oysters intend for -broiling.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Tripe with Oysters.</b>—Tripe, when properly -prepared by a simple process, is very nutritious -and easily digested.</p> - -<p>Cut up half a pound of well-washed tripe; -simmer for three-quarters of an hour in water -slightly salted; take out the tripe; add to the -broth a little butter rolled in flour, salt and pepper; -add a little more flour if not thick enough. -Return the tripe and a dozen oysters; simmer -for a few minutes longer, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oysters en Brochette.</b>—Select one dozen -choice oysters; plunge them into hot water a -second to make them firm (this process is called -blanching), then drain, and dip them into melted -butter; arrange them on skewers with alternate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span> -layers of neatly sliced bacon; broil over a moderate -fire. When done, add maitre-d’hôtel butter -to them, and serve on the skewers.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fried Oysters.</b>—Beat up the yolks of four -eggs with three tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and -season them with a teaspoonful of salt and a -saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up thoroughly. -Dry twelve fat oysters on a napkin; dip -them in the egg batter, then in cracker-dust; -shake off the loose cracker-dust, dip them again -in the egg batter, and lastly roll them in fine -<i>bread-crumbs</i>. Fry in very hot fat, using fat -enough to cover them. The oil gives them a -nice flavor.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oyster and Canned Salmon Pie.</b>—One -pound of best canned salmon, one pint of solid -oysters, half a pint of oyster liquid; cover the -bottom of the dish with neat pieces of the salmon, -season with salt and pepper and an ounce -of butter rolled in flour, add a few oysters, and -so on until the ingredients are used. Pour -in the liquid of both, and cover the top with -paste. Bake in a moderate oven. There should -be liquid enough to have the ingredients moist -when served.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oyster Patties.</b>—Roll out a pound of light -puff-paste, half an inch in thickness; cut it -into rounds with a cake-cutter two inches in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> -diameter; press a small cutter one inch in -diameter, on each round, one-fourth of an inch -deep. Place them on a buttered tin, brush a -little beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick -oven. When done, remove the centre and a -little of the inside. Scald (or, as it is called, -blanch) three dozen oysters; drain. Put into -a saucepan two ounces of butter, whisk it to a -cream; add a teaspoonful of flour, stir free from -lumps; add a heaping saltspoonful of salt, and -a pepperspoonful of white pepper; whisk into it -half a pint each of hot cream and the oyster -liquor; allow it to simmer a few minutes and to -thicken; then add the oysters and a “squeeze” -of lemon-juice; when hot fill the shells, and -serve. If nutmeg is not objected to, a little may -be used.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oysters à la Poulette.</b>—Blanch (scald) -a dozen oysters in their own liquor; drain them, -and add to the liquor, salt, half an ounce of -butter, the juice of half a lemon, a gill of cream, -and a teaspoonful of dissolved flour. Beat the -yolk of one egg, and add to the sauce. Stir until -the sauce thickens; place the oysters on a hot -dish, pour the sauce over them, add a very little -chopped parsley, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Pie of Oysters and Scallops.</b>—Take -one pint of fresh scallops, and wash them in cold<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> -water; drain, and dry them in a napkin. Cut a -few slices of fat bacon in strips small enough to -insert the ends in a larding-needle; lard the -scallops with them, and dredge them slightly -with flour. Select one quart of fat oysters; line -a baking-dish with puff-paste; add the scallops -and oysters in layers; season with salt, pepper, -and a dash of mace. Divide an ounce of butter -into little balls, roll them in flour, and put them -between the layers; add the oyster liquor. -Cover with a top crust; bake forty minutes in -a moderate oven.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Steamed Oysters.</b>—Wash and scrub the -shells thoroughly, and rinse them off in cold -water. Put them in a steamer, large or deep -shell <i>down</i>. Put the steamer on top of a pot -of boiling water; steam about six minutes, or -until the shells separate. Have ready a hot dish -containing melted butter seasoned with a dash -of Worcestershire, lemon-juice, salt and cayenne. -Remove them from the steamer with gloved -hands, and pick out the oysters with a flat -knife, saving all the juice possible. Dip the -oysters in the butter as you open them, and -the number one can eat is surprising.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>To serve Steamed Oysters.</b>—Steam -them as in the foregoing recipe. At each guest’s -place at table have ready little saucers containing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> -a quantity of the hot melted butter. Remove -the flat shell, and serve the oyster in the lower -shell; send about six oysters to each guest at a -time.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Roast Oysters.</b>—Clean the shells thoroughly, -and place them on the coals in an open -fire-place, or remove the top of range, and put -them on the live coals, until they snap open, -which they will soon do. Care must be exercised -not to burn fingers.</p> - -<p>At evening, young folks like the fun of roasting -oysters in the furnace below stairs, and eating -them from the shell as fast as the host can open -them.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Baked Oysters.</b>—Clean the shells thoroughly, -and fill a dripping-pan with them, deep -shell down. Look at them after ten minutes. -If the shells are all opened, they are cooked -enough. Melted butter, nicely seasoned, is the -only sauce to serve with them.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CLAMS">CLAMS.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Little-Neck Clams.</b>—From the first of -September until the first of May in the following -year, the clam—which is richer in nutrition -than the oyster—is as meek and as gentle as a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> -clam can be. Yet it submits to all sorts of -indignities from the oyster, and has never been -known to talk back during the period mentioned. -After the first of May, however, its -manner changes, and it assumes metropolitan -airs. It lords it over the oyster as a bantam -struts around a helpless foe; and it plainly -intimates to the oyster that moving-day was -invented to celebrate its departure.</p> - -<p>After May 1, the clam must be recognized as -the <i>avant-coureur</i> of all dainty feasts. No summer -dinner or supper of any pretensions is considered -complete without the small clam. All -the small clams in market are supposed to -come from Little Neck, Long Island. Not one-quarter -of the supply comes from this locality.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Soft Clams in Chafing-Dish.</b>—Select a -dozen large Guilford clams, wash them thoroughly, -and plunge them into boiling water for -a moment. Drain and open them, and use the -round plump part only. Put in a chafing-dish -a pat of butter, and when quite hot add a dash -of flour, and cayenne to suit the taste; add the -clams, and when they are slightly cooked add -a gill of light sherry. Cover the dish, and allow -it to simmer five minutes. Have ready three -slices of toast, put four clams upon each slice, -add a little of the hot sherry, and serve.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Little-Neck Clams.</b>—Get two -dozen freshly opened, <i>very</i> small clams. Boil a -pint of milk, a dash of white pepper, and a small -pat of butter. Now add the clams. Let them -come to a boil, and serve. Longer boiling will -make the clams almost indigestible.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Soft Clams.</b>—Select a dozen soft-shell -clams; wash them well; remove the shells; -trim off the tough neck; place each clam on a -half-shell, and add to each half a teaspoonful of -finely-chopped bacon, a little cayenne, a very -small bit of onion, and a pat of butter rolled in -flour; strew over the top a little grated Parmesan -cheese, and bake to a delicate brown. Cracker-crumbs -may be used instead of the cheese if -preferred.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Soft-Shell Clams, Scalloped.</b>—Purchase -a dozen large soft clams in the shell, and three -dozen opened clams. Ask the dealer to open -the first dozen, care being used not to injure -the shells, which are to be used in cooking the -clams. Clean the shells well, and put two soft -clams on each half-shell; add to each a dash -of white pepper and half a teaspoonful of -minced celery. Cut a slice of fat bacon into -the smallest dice, add four of these to each -shell, strew over the top a thin layer of cracker-dust, -place a pat of table butter on top, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> -bake in the oven until brown. They are delightful -when properly prepared.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Clam Toast.</b>—Chop up two dozen small -clams into fine pieces; simmer for thirty minutes -in hot water enough to cover them. Beat -up the yolks of two eggs; add a little cayenne -and a gill of warmed milk; dissolve half a teaspoonful -of flour in a little cold milk; simmer -all together; pour over buttered toast, and -serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Clam Broth.</b>—Procure three dozen Little-Neck -clams in the shell; wash them well in cold -water; put them in a saucepan, cover with a -quart of hot water; boil fifteen minutes; drain; -remove the shells; chop up the clams, and add -them to the hot broth with a pat of butter; salt -if necessary, and add a little cayenne; boil ten -minutes, pour into a soup-tureen, add a slice -of toast, and send to table. This is the mode -adopted when we do not have a clam-opener -in the house.</p> - -<p>Raw, freshly opened clams should be chopped -fine and prepared in the manner above described. -The large clams are better for chowders than -for stews and broth.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Clam Fritters.</b>—Chop medium fine -twenty-five large quahaugs, or seventy-five Little -Necks. To a pint of flour add the beaten yolks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span> -of three eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful -of lemon-juice, a dash of cayenne, and -an ounce of melted butter. Mix well, and make -a batter by adding about a gill of milk. Add the -clams, and if the batter is too thick add a little -of the clam broth. To make them light, beat -the mixture well; drop spoonfuls in hot fat, and -fry brown, as you would doughnuts.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fried Soft Clams.—</b>Select half a dozen -of large Guilford clams. Remove the shells, and -trim off the dark tough parts. Cut into dice a -quarter of a pound of salt pork, and fry it. In -the pork-fat fry the clams, but first dredge them -with flour. Serve with a slice of broiled or -fried fat pork.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CRABS">CRABS.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Hard-shell Crabs.</b>—The common blue -crab is the species of the crab family which -we are most familiar with. We remember how -rapidly they darted away from us when we -pointed the net towards them, when on our -summer vacation. We also have vivid recollections -of their anxiety to shake hands with us -when in captivity.</p> - -<p>Hard crabs are to be had during almost the -entire season, and the average price asked for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span> -them is $3.00 per hundred. Those found in -market in winter were raked out of the mud, -where they had buried themselves until the -advent of warm weather.</p> - -<p>Select a dozen hard crabs, and rinse them -well in fresh water. Have ready a kettle two-thirds -full of boiling water, slightly salted; -plunge them into it, and boil them for about -twelve minutes; drain, and when cool put them -in the ice-box to become cold.</p> - -<p>After the theatre, return home for supper, -instead of patronizing the restaurant, and serve -the crabs with sandwiches of buttered bread. A -light sauterne may be served with them, if not -objected to.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Crab Patties, Cream Sauce.</b>—Roll out -a pound of light puff-paste, half an inch in -thickness. Cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter -two inches in diameter. Press a small cutter -one inch in diameter, on each round, one-fourth -of an inch deep. Place them on a buttered tin, -brush a little beaten egg over them, and bake -in a quick oven. When done, remove the -centre, and a little of the inside.</p> - -<p>Put into a saucepan half an ounce of butter, -half an onion minced, half a pound of minced -raw veal, and a small carrot shredded. Toss -about for two or three minutes to fry, but not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span> -to color; then add two tablespoonfuls of flour. -Mix it well with the other ingredients, and add -three pints of hot water, a pint of boiling cream, -half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful -of white pepper. Simmer one hour, and strain -into a saucepan. Add to each pint of it half a -gill of warm cream. Place back on range again, -and simmer until reduced enough to coat the -spoon, then strain into a crock, and whisk until -it is cold. This is done to prevent the formation -of a thick top. At this season of the year -this is an excellent sauce to have on hand for -patties, white fish sauces, and also for meat -sauces. When wanted for patties, melt an -ounce of butter. While whisking it, gradually -add a pint of the sauce. Mix it with a quart -of prepared crab-meat, obtainable at the grocer’s. -When hot, fill the shells with it.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Soft-shell Crabs.</b>—When the blue crab -is desirous of increasing his growth, he sheds -his shell, and for a short period is perfectly -helpless. The male usually retires to a secluded -spot out of the reach of eels and other enemies, -but the female soft shell is protected by a male -companion whose shell is hard. At Sheepshead -Bay these are called elopers or double crabs. -As the tide changes, the soft shell begins to -harden, when it is called “paper-shell,” shedder,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span> -or feeler. Before reaching its normal condition, -the crab is called a buckler, and is only used as -bait.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>The Care of Soft Crabs.</b>—Soft crabs -require delicate handling and much care. They -deteriorate rapidly after leaving the water, and -are often killed in transit by the sudden jarring -of the train. If a little care is exercised, they -may be kept alive from six to ten days. First -select vigorous crabs, remove them from the -crate, and give them a bath in water slightly -salted. Clean the crate thoroughly, renew or -wash the seaweed which accompanies them. -Strew over the bottom of the crate a layer of -the seaweed, and place the crabs in the crate -in layers, faces upward with side spines touching -each other, and alternated with layers of -seaweed. When the crate is full, cover it with -more seaweed, sprinkle salt water over all, and -set the crate in a dark, cool place. Sprinkle -salt water over them from day to day, and renew -the bath and fresh sea-tangle about every -other day. Treated this way, they will keep -in the hottest weather. One of the principal -objects in covering them with seaweed is to -keep the light from them. Sudden flashes of -lightning, if seen by them, would frighten them -to death. Their sensitive organization cannot<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> -even stand the rumbling of thunder, and they -should be stored away where they cannot hear -it distinctly. The only care required in cleaning -them for the table is to remove the feathery -gill-like formations under the side spines, and -the sand-pouch. Soft crabs are too delicate -morsels to cover with batter.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Crabs, Soft-shell.</b>—These should be -cooked as soon as possible after being caught, -as their flavor rapidly deteriorates after being -exposed to the air. Select crabs as lively as possible; -remove the feathery substance under the -pointed sides of the shells; rinse them in cold -water; drain; season with salt and pepper; -dredge them in flour, and fry in hot fat.</p> - -<p>Many serve them rolled in eggs and cracker-dust; -but thus they are not as good.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Crab Croquettes.</b>—Take one pound of -crab-meat; gently press out the juice, and put -it in a bowl with a tablespoonful of fine crumbs, -half a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of -pepper, a dash of anchovy essence, the yolks -of two eggs, and a very little cold water. If the -eggs are not enough to make it the proper consistency, -bind the ingredients together, and place -on ice until wanted; then work into corks or -cone-shaped forms, dip them in beaten egg, then -in crumbs, and fry in hot fat.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Crab Patties, à la Bechamel.</b>—Prepare -the shells the same as for oyster patties (which -see). Put into a saucepan half an ounce of -butter, half a medium-sized onion minced, half -a pound of minced raw veal, one small carrot -shredded; toss about for two minutes to fry, but -not to color; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, -stir it about with the vegetables; then add three -pints of hot water, or if convenient use hot soup-stock -instead; add a pint of boiling cream. -Season with half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful -of white pepper. Simmer one hour, -and strain into a saucepan. Add to each pint -of sauce half a wineglassful of cream. Simmer -until reduced enough to coat a spoon; strain it -again into a crock, and whisk it until cold, to -prevent a thick top from forming. When wanted -for patties, or any thing else, boil one pint of it -with an ounce of butter, whisking it thoroughly. -Prepare a quart of solid crab-meat, either picked -from the shells or purchased already prepared; -add it to a pint of the sauce; strew in a few -shredded mushrooms: fill the crab-shells with -this, and serve. On fast-days, omit veal and -stock from meats, and use milk instead.</p> - -<p>[This very excellent sauce was named after -the Marquis de Bechamel, a worthless court-lounger -and steward under Louis XIV. Why his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span> -unsavory memory has been perpetuated by a gastronomic -monument of worth, is one of those -inexplicable historical facts that students of the -art of cookery are continually stumbling upon. -The close observer will not fail, however, to -discover that nearly all dishes named after old -French celebrities were stolen bodily from old -Venetian and Provençal books of cookery, and -were re-baptized after some of the most notorious -profligates of the seventeenth and eighteenth -centuries. Many of these old cook-books, like -“Opusculum de Obsoniis de Honesta Voluptate,” -a volume printed at Venice, 1475 (the first -cookery-book published), and others, contain -recipes almost identical with French cookery -of the past few centuries.]</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Crabs, à l’Américaine.</b>—Pick out the -meat from the shells of four dozen boiled hard-shell -crabs; squeeze out the water gently; put -the meat in a bowl, and add the yolks of two raw -eggs, salt, cayenne, and a very little chopped -parsley, and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; -roll the mixture into small balls or cakes; dip -in egg batter, roll in cracker-crumbs, and fry to -a delicate brown. They may be served plain -or with tomato sauce.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Crabs, Deviled.</b>—Pick out the meat of -four dozen boiled hard-shell crabs, put it into a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> -bowl, and add a half-pint of mayonnaise. Mix -carefully with your hand; wash a dozen of the -shells, put a little of the mixture into each; grate -a loaf of dry bread, season a pint of it with salt -and pepper, sprinkle it over the crabs evenly; -make twelve little balls of butter about the size -of hickory-nuts; put one on top of each crab, -and bake in a quick oven.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="SCALLOPS">SCALLOPS.</h2> - - -<p>The scallop-shell is familiar to even the children -who have visited the seashore, and the -novice wonders why so small a tidbit should -require so large a shell. The edible part of the -scallop is only the powerful central muscle by -which the mollusk opens and closes its shell. The -medium-sized scallops are the best. The very -large and very white variety are more than likely -to have been inflated and bleached by the aid -of saleratus.</p> - -<p>Scallop-shells were extensively used in ancient -cookery, and gave to various dishes the prefix -“scalloped.”</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Scallop Broth.</b>—The peculiar flavor of -scallops is quite attractive to the convalescent, -and a broth made from them is nourishing; but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span> -care should be exercised in selecting the shell-fish. -To improve their appearance, shippers -add quantities of saleratus to the scallops, which -has the effect of bleaching them, and increasing -their size: this custom may please the dealers, -but not consumers. Select medium-sized scallops -of a natural creamy color, wash them, and -cut them into small pieces. To half a pint of -these, add half a pint of warm water and half a -pint of milk, a “pea” of butter, and a pinch -of salt; simmer for twenty minutes; strain and -serve.</p> - -<p>A pint of milk and no water may be used -if the patient desires it.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Small Patties of Scallops.</b>—Wash a -pint of scallops, drain, cut them up, and scald -them; then put them in just milk enough to -prevent burning. Add salt and white pepper, -simmer until quite tender, and thicken with half -a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in cold water. -Pour this mixture in small patty-shells (see recipe -for oyster patties), and serve after the soup and -before the fish, or as an entrée.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fried Scallops.</b>—Rinse a pint of scallops -in cold water slightly salted, then dry them in a -napkin, and dredge them slightly with flour. -Fry them in pork-fat. Egg batter and crumbs -are not recommended.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Scallops en Brochette.</b>—Drain twenty-four -medium-sized scallops in a napkin. Parboil -them a moment. When cool arrange them on -four skewers, six on each, alternated with thin -slices of bacon the size of the scallops in width. -Brush over the scallops a little melted butter, -and broil. When done, serve with tufts of watercresses -and lemon.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Scallops.</b>—Scald fifteen scallops, -and put them into a stewpan with half a pint -of boiling milk, a dash of cayenne, and a saltspoonful -of salt. Just before serving, add very -little table butter.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="MUSSELS">MUSSELS.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>The Mussel</b> is called the poor man’s -oyster; but why the poor should have a monopoly -of this very useful shellfish, the writer is at -a loss to comprehend. During warm weather -the spiced mussel is a treat: it may have the -honor of ushering in a family dinner instead -of the clam, and at collations and suppers it -should be welcome. As they may be purchased -at from eighteen to twenty-five cents per quart, -it is a waste of time to pickle them at home, -unless living at the seashore.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span></p> - - - - -<h2 id="THE_LOBSTER">THE LOBSTER.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Remarks on the Lobster.</b>—It takes a -lobster about five years to arrive at maturity, or -over ten inches in length. The spawning season -depends upon the temperature of the water. -Along the Sound, the season begins in June, -and ends in September.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>The Season for Lobster.</b>—Lobsters -are at their best before the spawning season. -They are then filled with roe, or coral as the -red spawn is called by some. This is a great -delicacy, and is highly esteemed by epicures. -After the spawning season, which is late in the -summer, they are in very poor condition, and -should not be offered for sale until cool weather.</p> - -<p>The green part in the body of the lobster is -called the tom-alley by New-England folks. It -is excellent eating.</p> - -<p>The external spawn adhering to the tail of -the female lobster, when not highly developed, -is edible, and is used in garnishing and making -lobster butter, paste, and cardinal-fish sauces.</p> - -<p>It is a curious fact, that the lobster changes -or re-makes a shell from eight to ten times the -first year, five to seven the second, three to four -the third, and from two to three the fourth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span> -year. So says Professor G. O. Sars of Norway, -about the European lobster, whose habits agree -more or less closely with those of the American -lobster.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Soft-shell Lobster not edible.</b>—After -the fifth year the change of shell is only annual. -A soft-shell or shedder lobster, unlike -the soft-shell crab, is not edible, and if eaten is -likely to produce ill effects. In a soft condition -the lobster itself is sick, and is therefore unfit for -food.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Selecting Lobsters.</b>—Always select a firm -shell, of a deep dark-green color. Light-colored, -thin-shelled lobsters are likely to be lean and -poor. When plunged into the boiling water, -the joints contract, and the tail draws under, -provided the lobster was alive at the time of -immersion. If dead when boiled, the tendons are -relaxed, the claws hang loosely, the tail will not -possess a spring-like tenacity when straightened -out. Select the former, and reject the latter.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Value of the Lobster as Food.</b>—According -to Professor Atwater of Middletown, -Conn., the nutritive value of the flesh of the -lobster, compared with beef as a standard and -reckoned at 100, is 61 to 97. Forty per cent -of the lobster is edible, the remainder is shell -and waste.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span></p> - - -<p>Buckland says, “That phosphorus exists in -large quantities, may be easily proved. A -lobster in hot weather, when it ceases to be -fresh, assumes a highly phosphorescent appearance -when seen in the dark, equal if not superior -to that of a glow-worm or luminous centipede. -This light increases by friction.... The presence -of phosphorus in the lobster is of great -importance to the consumers of these sea -luxuries. There is no substance which conveys -phosphorus so readily into the human system -in an agreeable form, and which the system so -readily and quickly assimilates, as the flesh of -crabs and lobsters.”</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Lobster.</b>—Select alive and active -lobster not less than ten and a half inches long. -(If below this measurement, the dealer should -be arrested for breaking the law which protects -the lobster.) Split it in two lengthwise, which -instantly kills it. Remove the entrail through -the fleshy part of the tail, and the crop or -stomach near the head. This done, there are -two ways of preparing it for table. One is as -follows:—</p> - -<p>Remove the flesh from the tail, and brush -over it a little melted butter or olive-oil; broil it -gently, but not too well done. Heat the shell, -put the meat back in the shell again, add more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span> -butter, salt, pepper, and serve on hot plates. -The body parts may be boiled, and furnish -dainty pickings for a late meal.</p> - -<p>The other way is that which is generally -adopted by restaurants. Brush a little butter -over the entire half of the green lobster; broil -the shell side thoroughly first, then turn, and -broil the other. Serve with maitre-d’hôtel sauce.</p> - -<p>A lobster that has once been boiled and then -broiled is so thoroughly over-cooked as to be -very indigestible.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Lobster Croquettes, with Pease.</b>—Boil -one-half pint of milk, thicken it with a tablespoonful -of flour, and let it become cold. Mince -the meat of a one-pound can of lobster, or one -pound of fresh lobster; when very fine, add a -saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of -white pepper. Moisten the lobster mince with -the thickened milk, and work the whole to a -paste; add very little bread-crumb if too thin; -let it become amalgamated over the range, and -place in the ice-box until wanted; then shape it -into neat rolls or cones; dip them in egg and -crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat. Arrange -the forms neatly on a dish, put round them a -border of pease, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Lobsters en Brochette.</b>—Instead of boiling -the lobster-tails, cut them in pieces, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> -arrange these on small skewers, alternated with -small pieces of bacon; brush melted butter over -them, and either broil or bake them; serve with -sauce tartare (which see on p. <a href="#Page_84">84</a>).</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Deviled Lobster.</b>—Take two live lobsters, -remove the tails, split them in two, and make -several incisions in them crosswise. Mix together -half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful -each of dry mustard and curry, and half a saltspoonful -of white pepper, add a tablespoonful of -oil; mix, spread it over the lobsters, and broil -them. When done, return to the shells, which -should have been kept hot for the purpose; -pour a little melted butter over them, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Lobster, à la Créole.</b>—Remove -the tail part of the meat from three green lobsters; -split them in two lengthwise; remove the -thread-like intestine. Melt an ounce of butter in -a deep frying-pan; add the lobster; toss it for a -few minutes in the butter; add salt and pepper -and half a pint of hot water; cover, and simmer -three-quarters of an hour; drain, and reduce -the water one-half by rapid boiling. Put in -a saucepan half an ounce of butter and a -tablespoonful of minced onion; fry brown, and -add three peeled and sliced tomatoes, one sweet -pepper, four okra pods cut small, and half a teaspoonful -of salt. Allow these to cook fifteen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span> -minutes, add the broth, and simmer until -reduced to a pulp; rub through a sieve; put -this <i>puree</i> on a hot dish, place the lobster on -top, add a little lemon-juice, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Lobster.</b>—Remove the meat -from two boiled lobsters, cut it into neat pieces; -take all green fat and coral, and set them aside; -mix the green fat with a heaping spoonful -of curry-powder. Squeeze out the juice of three -limes, and add to it half a teaspoonful of powdered -sugar. Put into a frying-pan an ounce -of butter; when creamed add a teaspoonful of -minced onion browned a little; now add the -mixed curry-powder; dissolve a teaspoonful of -rice-flour in cold water, add this to a pint of hot -water or soup-stock, simmer until thick; now -add the lobster, and simmer twenty minutes -longer. Wash and dry the coral, separate it. -Prepare a border of rice on a dish, and over it -sprinkle the coral and eggs (if any); pour the -curry in the centre, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Lobster Salad.</b>—Take two live hen (female) -lobsters; boil them thirty minutes; drain. When -cold, break them apart; crack the claws, and -if the tail-fins are covered with eggs remove -them carefully. Take out the sand-pouch found -near the head; split the fleshy part of the tail -in two lengthwise, remove the small long entrail<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> -found therein. Adhering to the body-shell -may be found a layer of creamy fat; save this, -and also the green fat in the body of the -lobster (called tom-alley by New-Englanders), -and the coral. If celery is used, tear the lobster -into shreds with forks; if lettuce, cut the -lobster into half-inch pieces. Place the salad -herb in a bowl, add the lobster and the fat, and -pour over it a rich mayonnaise; garnish with -the claws and heads, tufts of green, hard-boiled -eggs, etc. The lobster eggs may be separated, -and sprinkled over the mayonnaise. The coral -is used for coloring mayonnaise, and also butter, -which is then used in decorating salmon and -other dark fish used in salads.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="THE_OYSTER_CRAB">THE OYSTER CRAB.</h2> - - -<p>The little crab found in the oyster is not, as -commonly supposed by two-thirds of the oyster-eating -community to be, the young of the blue -crab; but it is a distinct species. It is a messmate -of and caterer to the wants of the oyster, -being therefore a benefit instead of a detriment -to the latter. In return for the oyster’s kindness -in protecting it against its enemies, the little -crab catches and crushes food which in its en<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span>tire -state could not be taken by the oyster. A -singular thing in connection with them is, that -all found inside of the oyster are females. The -male of the same variety is found in the neighborhood, -but its shell is firm.</p> - -<p>Oyster-crabs are found at the grocer’s, put up -in half-pint bottles, which retail from 60 to 75 -cents each. At the markets they are sold at -$2.50 per quart.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>To Serve Oyster Crabs.</b>—Put on a -small saucer a crisp but dry leaf of lettuce, and -put in the centre of each leaf a scant tablespoonful -of the oyster crabs. Add a scant teaspoonful -of mayonnaise to each, and serve as a whet -before a ladies’ collation, or at an afternoon -luncheon.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oyster-Crab Omelet.</b>—This is a most -tempting dish. Roll an ounce of butter into -little balls, dredge these with flour, put them in -a pan, and when they begin to melt whisk them; -do not let it brown; add a gill of hot water, -and simmer until thick; now add half a pint of -oyster crabs, salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat -up four eggs thoroughly, and make them into an -omelet; just before folding, add the crabs, and -serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Oyster-Crab Sauce.</b>—Add a tablespoonful -of oyster-crabs to half a pint of drawn<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span> -butter, sauce hollandaise, or in fact any white -or cream fish-sauce, and serve with boiled -fish.</p> - - -<p class="center">ACKNOWLEDGMENT.</p> - -<p>The writer is deeply indebted to Prof. George -Brown Goode’s compilation and reports of the -“Fishery Industries of the United States,” for -much of the natural history of fish and shell -embodied in this work.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="SHRIMPS">SHRIMPS.</h2> - - -<p>The common shrimp, which is caught in immense -quantities along our coast all summer, and -used for bait, is a dainty which summer residents -should not neglect. When a shrimp salad is -wanted, however, the servant is sent to the nearest -grocer for a can of Southern shrimp, and the -delicious morsel at their very door is used to -feed the fishes. The trouble seems to be, that -servants dislike the trouble of picking them out -of their transparent shells.</p> - -<p>Summer hotels would buy the native shrimp -if fishermen would take the trouble of offering -them. No more appetizing or appropriate garnish -for lobster salads and for portions of boiled fish<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> -can be imagined than the little home shrimp -properly boiled. A plunge into the hot water is -about all the cooking they need.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Market Price of Shrimps.</b>—Cooked and -shelled shrimps are to be had in our markets -during warm weather, for from thirty to fifty cents -per quart. Canned shrimps retail for from thirty -to forty cents per can, and $3.50 per dozen. -Rinse them in fresh water before using them.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Shrimp Omelet.</b>—Toss half a pint of -canned or fresh shrimps in a little hot butter for -a moment; add a little salt and pepper and a -tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Prepare the -omelet, and just before folding add the shrimps, -and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Shrimp Sauce.</b>—Cut up the shrimps into -halves, add them to a creamy fish sauce of any -kind; mix and serve.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="PRAWNS">PRAWNS.</h2> - - -<p>Scientifically there is a difference between the -prawn and the shrimp; but it need not be considered -by the housewife, except that the prawn, -that comes to this market from the South already -cooked and shelled, is larger than the shrimp, -and a little stronger flavored.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span></p> - -<p>The shrimps and prawns are found in salt and -brackish water, while the crayfish are inhabitants -of fresh water.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Prawns.</b>—Prawns are at their -best served as a curry. Boil two quarts of live -prawns thirty minutes, drain when slightly cooled, -break away the shells, and set them aside. Put -two ounces of butter in a frying-pan; when very -hot add a clove of garlic and one sliced apple; -brown slightly, remove the garlic, and add a dessertspoonful -of curry-powder mixed with a gill -of water; stir, and add half a pint of soup-stock -and half a teaspoonful of flour; now add the -prawns, and the juice of half a lemon in which -a lump of sugar has been dissolved. Pour out -on a hot dish, and send to table with rice -croquettes.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Prawns, Deviled, en Coquille.</b>—Simmer -a quart of prawns fifteen minutes in water flavored -with a little sharp vinegar; drain, and cut -them very fine. Add two ounces of butter, a gill -of water, salt and pepper, the yolks of two eggs, -and bread-crumbs to absorb the moisture. Mix -to a paste. Partly fill the shells, cover with -crumbs, add a small pat of butter to each, and -bake to a delicate brown.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Prawns, Sauté, à la Marengo.</b>—Wash -one pint of “shelled” prawns, simmer them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span> -twenty minutes, drain, and toss them a moment -in a little hot olive-oil; remove them, add a sprig -of parsley, half a dozen button mushrooms, a -gill of hot water, salt and pepper, and thicken -with a little flour. Put the prawns on a dish, -pour the sauce over them, garnish with fried -eggs and slices of tomatoes fried.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Prawn Salad.</b>—Take one quart of prawns -and one quart and a pint of cut celery; put the -celery in a bowl; add the prawns; garnish neatly, -and serve with a mayonnaise.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CRAYFISH">CRAYFISH.</h2> - - -<p>The crayfish are inhabitants of fresh-water -streams; and they bear a striking resemblance -to the lobster in appearance, spawning habits, -shedding their shell, etc. Their season begins -early in the spring, and lasts until cold weather. -During a bountiful supply of these delicious -shell-fish, large quantities are packed away in -ice-houses for winter use, when there is a big -demand for them from caterers who use them -as garnishment, and for salads and sauces. They -cost from three to four dollars per hundred -in the New-York markets. Those that come -from Milwaukee are highly esteemed; and, as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span> -they are already cooked, they may be used at -luncheon, and on fast-days as salads. A crayfish -salad is an enjoyable dish.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Crayfish Omelet.</b>—Rinse half a pint of -crayfish tails in salted water, and drain them; -then split each tail in two lengthwise, and remove -the thread-like intestine found therein. -Toss them about a moment in a little butter and -tablespoonful of broth or gravy; season with a -dash of cayenne. Make a four-egg omelet, and -just before folding add the crayfish.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="SALMON">SALMON.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Steak.</b>—Put into fast boiling water, -salted, a slice of fresh salmon, and boil for five -minutes quite rapidly; then set on back of the -range where it will simmer for fifteen minutes -longer. Drain, and place it on a napkin surrounded -with a border of parsley. On the two -ends of the platter place slices of lemon. Serve -with a sauce in a sauce-boat. Drawn butter -with a few prawns or shrimps cut up in it is a -nice sauce for salmon.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Canned Salmon.</b>—The canning of salmon -at the source of supply has been of lasting benefit -to mankind, for we are now able to pro<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span>cure -a pound of salmon in any quarter of the -globe for a reasonable sum. Canned salmon -has one advantage over the fresh fish: it does -not deteriorate, and lose its flavor. Those who -have tried it say they do not get surfeited with -canned salmon, although many of the same individuals -dislike the fresh salmon owing to its -richness, and on this account rarely eat it.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Patties.</b>—This is a very nice way -of serving salmon at luncheon. Open a pound -can of salmon, drain, add to the small amount of -salmon liquid sufficient water to make a gill, -season it with salt and pepper, and, if on hand, -add a little anchovy paste. Beat up the yolks -of two eggs with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved -in a little cold water or milk: add the gill -of water, place it on the range to become hot -and thick, whisking it meanwhile; break the -salmon into pieces, and add to the sauce. When -quite hot, fill the patty shells with it, and serve. -A very rich sauce may be made by the addition -of butter and cream.</p> - -<p>The patty shells are made as follows: Roll out -some very light puff-paste, half an inch thick; -stamp it in rounds with a three-inch cutter, press -a small cutter in the middle of each round to -the depth of quarter of an inch; put the rounds -on a buttered tin, brush a little beaten egg over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> -them, and bake in a quick oven. When done, -remove the centre, scoop out a little of the inside, -and the shells are ready for the mixture.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Surprise.</b>—Boil two quarts of -potatoes with their jackets on. When done, peel -and mash them with butter and warm milk. -Arrange a border of potatoes on a flat, oval dish. -In the centre of this put a pound of canned or -cold salmon separated into neat-sized pieces, salt, -pepper, a very little mace, and a teaspoonful of -chopped parsley; cover the salmon with a layer -of raw oysters; add a little oyster-liquor, cover -the oysters with a thin smooth layer of mashed -potato, and brush the beaten yolk of egg over -all. Then make a small hole in the centre, and -place the dish in an oven hot enough to brown -the outside quickly.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon à la Créole.</b>—Scald and put -three large tomatoes to simmer in very little -water, until tender: chop up very fine a sweet -Spanish pepper and quarter of an onion; fry -these in a little bacon fat; add the tomato, salt, -and little white pepper. Simmer until reduced -to a pulp. Open a pound can of salmon; set -the can in a saucepan half full of hot water, turn -the salmon out on a dish. When it is quite hot, -pour the pulp over it, and serve. Canned tomatoes -may be used instead of fresh tomatoes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Pie.</b>—Cut up four boiled potatoes -into neat pieces; cut half a pound of boiled salt -pork into dice; divide a pound of canned salmon -into symmetrical pieces; roll out quarter of -a pound of puff-paste, cut it into squares, and roll -each of these into a little ball. Arrange these -ingredients alternately in a deep yellow dish, season -with salt and pepper, add hot water or gravy -to prevent burning, cover the top with paste, -make a hole in the centre, and bake in a moderate -oven.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon in Jelly.</b>—Take one gallon of -clear soup, and boil it down to a quart. Soak -a teaspoonful of gelatine in cold water, and add -to the reduced soup to make sure that it will -be stiff when cold.</p> - -<p>Take a two-quart tin mould, set it on ice, and -pour enough of the liquid in it to cover the -bottom. Let this become firm. Cut into slices, -and then into diamonds, boiled beets, white -turnips, and cold boiled tongue; dip each into -the liquid, and place them in the mould in a -very neat and artistic manner; when they become -firm, spread over them a layer an inch -thick, of cream-mashed potato; now add a -pound of canned salmon, and pour round the -edges and on top the remainder of the reduced -soup, and set the mould in a very cold place to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> -become firm. When wanted, dip the mould into -hot water quickly, and turn it out. This is an -excellent dish for collations, wedding breakfasts, -etc. The potato must be made rich with -butter and milk, and beaten to a light consistency -before being placed in the mould. Any -other kind of cold fish will answer quite as well -as salmon for this and other dishes herein -mentioned.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Omelet.</b>—Separate half a pound -of canned salmon into flakes, season with salt and -pepper, a little lemon-juice, and add a little of -the liquid; heat it a little, whip up the eggs -for an omelet, prepare it as usual, and just before -completing the fold add the salmon; then -turn it out on a hot dish.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon, German Style.</b>—Boil two quarts -of sauerkraut; drain it, and pile it on a hot -dish; have ready a pound of canned salmon -hot; make a hole in the centre of the kraut, -insert the fish, simmer and season the salmon -liquid, pour it over the dish, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon à l’Italienne.</b>—Boil half a pound -of macaroni in water slightly salted; drain. -Heat a can of salmon in hot water; turn it out -on a dish; arrange the macaroni round it; pour -over the macaroni the contents of a pound -can of tomato-pulp (hot), sprinkle over this a -little grated Parmesan cheese, and serve.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon à la Hollandaise.</b>—Heat a -pound of canned salmon in the original can; -turn it out on a hot dish, garnish neatly, and -pour over it the following sauce: Cream two -ounces of butter, whisk into it the yolks of -two beaten eggs, add a little salt and white -pepper, and half a teaspoonful of strong vinegar; -put the pan in a larger one containing hot -water, whisk it until it thickens, and just before -serving add a little lemon-juice.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salmon, Hunter’s Style.</b>—One of the -best dishes I have ever eaten while hunting was -prepared as follows: Take three one-pound cans -of salmon (save the liquid), and divide into neat -pieces; make a dough as for milk biscuits: -divide half of it into little balls; take one box -of sardines; put a layer of sliced bacon in the -bottom of a gallon crock; add a layer of salmon, -a few dough balls, two sardines, salt, cayenne. -Continue arranging in alternate layers -until the ingredients are all used; add a wineglassful -of vinegar to the salmon liquid, and -if there is not enough add a little water; cover -the top with the remainder of the dough, and -tie one or two thicknesses of white cloth over -all. Dig a hole deep enough to be lined with -mud or stones and to receive the crock; build -a fire in and over it (the smoke will keep off the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span> -mosquitoes). When reduced to coals, scoop -out the ashes and coals from the hole, cover the -cloth with mud, set the crock in the hole, and -cover up with the hot ashes; let it remain three -hours, and a more satisfactory dish cannot be -imagined.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Bouillabaisse.</b>—This celebrated dish was -immortalized by Thackeray. Put into a frying-pan -a gill of olive-oil, a clove of garlic minced, -a tablespoonful of chopped onion, two cloves, -six peppercorns; when slightly brown, add one -pound of canned salmon and the salmon liquid -in the can; add a little salt, a bit of bay leaf, -three slices of lemon, a pint of tomato pulp, a -pinch of curry-powder or saffron, a gill of Rhine -wine, with water enough to cover the fish: simmer -twenty minutes. Line a deep dish with -toast, remove from the pan all seasoning in sight, -pour the contents of the pan on the toast, and -serve.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="CODFISH">CODFISH.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce.</b>—The -only thing that can be urged against this most -excellent fish is its homely name. Were it not -so cheap, its good qualities would rapidly find<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span> -favor at all gastronomic entertainments where -palate-pleasing dishes are appreciated. Put the -fish into boiling water, slightly salted; add a -few whole cloves and peppers, and a bit of -lemon-peel; pull gently on the fins, and when -they come out easily the fish is done. Arrange -neatly on a folded napkin, garnish, and serve -with oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every -pound of fish, and scald them in a half-pint of -hot oyster liquor; take out the oysters, and add -to the liquor, salt, pepper, a bit of mace, and an -ounce of butter; whip into it a gill of milk, -containing half of a teaspoonful of flour. Simmer -a moment; add the oysters, and send to -table in a sauce-boat.</p> - -<p>A four-pound fish should cook in about forty -minutes.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Codfish Tongues.</b>—Wash four codfish -tongues thoroughly in cold water; put them -on the range in hot water, slightly salted, and -boil thirty minutes; drain; arrange neatly on -a folded napkin placed upon a hot dish; garnish -with parsley and slices of lemon, and send -to table with cream sauce.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Codfish Steak.</b>—Select a medium-sized -fresh codfish, cut it in steaks crosswise of the -fish about an inch and a half thick; sprinkle a -little salt over them, and let them stand two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span> -hours. Cut into dice a pound of salt fat pork, -fry out all the fat from them, and remove the -crisp bits of pork; put the codfish steaks in a -pan of corn-meal, dredge them with it, and, -when the pork-fat is smoking hot, fry the steaks -in it to a dark brown color on both sides. -Squeeze over them a little lemon-juice, add a -dash of freshly ground pepper, and serve with -hot, old-fashioned, well buttered johnny-cake.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>New-England Codfish Balls.</b>—Shred -the codfish the night before, and soak it over -night; drain quite dry on towel next day. Mash -fine one pound of hot boiled potatoes. Take -an equal amount of codfish, and divide it very -fine. Mix both together, and add the beaten -yolks of two eggs, two ounces of melted butter, -and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Now beat -the mixture until it is very light, for upon this -process depends the success or failure of the -dish. In shaping them together, do not press -them any more than is absolutely necessary. -Most cooks press them into cakes so hard -that it is next to an impossibility to eat them. -Dredge them lightly with a little flour, and fry -them like doughnuts in smoking hot fat. When -properly prepared and cooked they should fairly -melt in the mouth, which they will do if thoroughly -beaten and lightly handled.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Baked Cod.</b>—When purchasing a four-pound -cod, ask your fish-dealer to send you -three “codfish-heads;” and as soon as the basket -comes into the house, rub a little salt on the -fish, chop the heads into six pieces each, and -sprinkle a little salt over them. Place them in -the centre of the baking-pan (to be used as -supports for the fish), with a gill of water. Set -the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod.</p> - -<p>Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of -bread to fill the fish; drain off the water, and -pound the bread to a paste; mix with it two -tablepoonsfuls of melted butter, two raw eggs, a -tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, with salt -and pepper to taste. Put this stuffing inside the -fish, and sew it up; place the cod in the pan -with two or three pieces of butter on the upper -side of the fish, and baste it frequently; when it -is cooked, lay the fish on a hot platter, and garnish -with fried oysters if convenient. Add a -tablespoonful of brown flour to the pan, a wineglass -of claret; mix, and strain the gravy into a -sauce-boat. Time to cook, one hour.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Salt Codfish with Cream.</b>—Soak one -pound and a half of salt codfish over night. -Next morning set the fish to simmer for about -two hours; drain off the water, and strip the fish -into shreds; place it in a saucepan with a quart<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span> -of milk and two ounces of butter; mix a tablespoonful -of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold -milk, and add to the fish. Let the whole come to -a boil; remove the dish from the fire, beat up one -egg to a froth, add it to the fish, stir, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Scrod.</b>—Small codfish no larger than our -tomcod are called scrod in Eastern Massachusetts. -After they have been corned over night, -they are broiled and fried.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="BROOK_TROUT">BROOK TROUT.</h2> - - -<p>Cultivated trout may be purchased at from -sixty to seventy-five cents per pound, and wild -trout from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per -pound, after April first. There are many house-keepers -who will not purchase the latter, thinking -that as they are cheaper, they cannot be so -good as the more expensive trout. Cultivated -trout are only trout in name and outside appearance, -and no more compare in flavor with the -wild trout than chalk does with cheese. They -are fattened (not allowed to feed naturally) on -cheap animal food that destroys all trout flavor; -and they live in artificial streams or ponds, -acquiring a peculiar swampy flavor which is -decidedly objectionable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span></p> - -<p>The wild trout lives in clear running streams, -fed from never-ending springs; here he finds a -beautiful supply of food furnished by nature’s -generous hand, instead of the refuse of the -butcher furnished to his more aristocratic -brother. Besides being superior in every way, -the wild trout is always cheaper.</p> - -<p>Shippers of trout often pack their speckled -beauties in moss, which injures their flavor materially; -and the housekeeper is obliged to let -them stand in cold water, slightly salted, to -extract the flavor of the moss. This is a good -plan to follow, by the way, when the trout are -frozen, as nearly all wild trout are in the early -spring.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Brook Trout, Sportsman Style.</b>—Clean -and rinse a quarter-of-a-pound trout in cold -spring water; dry it in a towel. Cut half a -pound of salt pork into small pieces; put these -into a thoroughly clean frying-pan; fry out the -clear fat, and remove the small pieces of pork. -Rub a little fine table-salt in the inside of the -fish, and when the pork-fat is smoking hot, add -the fish to it; turn it three times before it is -done. When nicely browned, serve it on a hot -dish, and send it to the table without adding -condiments of any kind. Should you be able to -procure fresh butter, a little may be put on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span> -fish before it is served, but it must be of -the very best quality.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Trout.</b>—The foregoing is a recipe -for cooking trout immediately after catching -them. After they are brought to our city markets -from distant mountain streams, however, -they are most toothsome when broiled over a -declining fire, and require a seasoning of salt, -pepper, and a little lemon-juice mixed with the -sweetest of sweet butter. Serve with hot plates.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Brook Trout, Baked.</b>—Trout weighing a -pound or over are best when served baked, -though many sportsmen will not listen to this -proposition. The outside of a large trout is -almost ruined in broiling before the centre of -the fish is cooked. Do not split the fish down -the back. Take half a pint of fine grated bread-crumbs, -and soak them in a little milk; squeeze -out the milk; add two ounces of table butter, a -saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white -pepper, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and -the slightest sprig of thyme; add the yolk of -one raw egg; mix; open the trout just enough -to clean it properly; remove the gills (leave the -heads on), fill the cavity with the stuffing, and -sew it up carefully. Put the fish in a tin, on top -of it place small bits of butter previously rolled -in flour, place it in a good oven, and bake with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span> -the back toward the hottest part of the oven. -The length of time it will take to cook properly -is from twenty to thirty minutes, very often a -little longer, for much depends on the temperature -of the oven.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Brook Trout, Boiled.</b>—To boil trout -seems an outrage; but when one receives a -large quantity of them, and there is danger of -their spoiling if not immediately used, put four -small trout properly cleaned into a saucepan, -cover them with claret, add a slice of lemon, -two cloves, four whole peppers, the least bit of -mace, and a heaping saltspoonful of salt. Simmer -slowly three-quarters of an hour; remove -the saucepan from the range, and when cold -take out the fish, put them in a dish, and pour -the boiled wine over them. Serve at luncheon -or collations.</p> - -<p>The head, tail, and fins of trout should not be -removed before cooking.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2 id="MISCELLANEOUS">MISCELLANEOUS.</h2> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Catfish, Fried.</b>—Catfish and waffles is a -combination dear to the hearts of Philadelphians, -and the road-houses near that city are celebrated -for cooking them. Select the fish already cleaned,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span> -as it is a troublesome job to clean them, and -pick out the white instead of the red catfish; -rub a little salt along the backbone on the inside, -and let the fish stand over night. Next -day dredge them with corn-meal or flour, and -fry in a little fat; sprinkle salt and pepper over -them before serving.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>The Tenderloin Trout.</b>—Large catfish -are caught in Southern rivers; and while they are -fair eating, they are not popular with the whites -in the vicinity of New Orleans. The restaurant -people, however, cut the fish into pieces an -inch square and about four inches long; these -are dipped in egg, rolled in crumbs, and fried -and served as tenderloin trout.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fricasseed Eels.</b>—Cut up three pounds -of eels into pieces of three inches in length; -put them into a stewpan, and cover them with -Rhine wine (or two-thirds water and one-third -vinegar); add fifteen oysters, two pieces of -lemon, a bouquet of herbs, one onion quartered, -six cloves, three stalks celery, a pinch of cayenne, -pepper and salt to taste. Stew the eels one -hour; remove them from the dish; strain the -liquor. Put it back into the stewpan with a -gill of cream and an ounce of butter rolled in -flour; simmer gently a few minutes, pour over -the fish, and serve.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Eel Patties.</b>—Take three medium-sized -eels, and cut them up into inch pieces. Put -them in a stewpan, add salt, and cover them -with cold water. When the water comes to a -boil, take them off the fire, wash them in cold -water, scrape off any fat that may adhere, return -them to the stewpan with just enough hot water -to cover them, and add a blade of mace, a bay -leaf, a few whole peppers, a few sprigs of parsley, -and one lemon cut into slices. Stew gently -until the fish will separate from the bone; remove -the fish from the broth, pick it into small -pieces, and set them aside; reduce the broth a -little, strain, and thicken with flour and butter. -Return the fish to the broth, simmer a moment, -fill your patties, and serve; make patty-shells as -directed for oyster patties.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Eels, Hoboken Turtle Club -Style.</b>—Cut into three-inch pieces two pounds -of medium-sized cleaned eels. Rub the inside of -each piece with salt. Let stand half an hour, -then parboil them. Boil an onion in a quart of -milk, and remove the onion. Drain the eels from -the water, and add them to the milk. Season -with half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt -and pepper, and the slightest suspicion of mace. -Simmer until the flesh falls from the bones.</p> - -<p>Fried eels should be slightly salted before<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span> -cooking them. Do not cover them with batter, -but dredge them with just flour enough to absorb -all moisture, then cover them with boiling -fat, as for doughnut cooking. Many New England -families use corn-meal to dredge them with -instead of flour.</p> - -<p>Eels <i>en matelotte</i>, or sailor fashion, are appreciated -by many. Cut them into three-inch -pieces, and salt them. Fry an onion brown in a -little dripping; add half a pint of broth to the -brown onion, part of a bay leaf, six broken peppercorns, -four whole cloves, and a gill of claret. -Add the eels to this, and simmer until thoroughly -cooked. Remove the eels, put them on a hot -dish, add a teaspoonful of browned flour to the -sauce, strain, and pour over the eels.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Pan Bass, Anchovy Butter.</b>—During -February, March, and the first part of April, -there may be found in market a variety of bass -which much resembles the Oswego bass. They -come from the Carolinas and Virginia, and are -excellent eating. Let them stand an hour in -salt water, then drain and wipe dry, and fry -them in tried-out salt-pork fat. Serve them -with a butter made as follows: Mix together a -teaspoonful of anchovy paste with a tablespoonful -of sweet butter, and, if not objected to, add -a few blades of chopped chives.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span></p> - -<p>The chive has the flavor peculiar to the onion -family, but in a mild form. It is cultivated by -truck gardeners, and may be found on the New -York vegetable stands as early as January. The -retail price at the first of the season is ten cents -a tuft; as it becomes more plentiful, it is offered -at five cents.</p> - -<p>Placed in the kitchen, it grows luxuriantly,—in -fact, it grows faster than it can be used by a -small family. This very useful herb should be -in the kitchen window of every home where -soups and salads are rightly appreciated.</p> - -<p>The chive grows wild in nearly all of the -Middle and Eastern States, and the first green -spot seen in our parks is more than likely to be -chives. Cows eat it, and their milk has a slight -garlic flavor. The garlic flavor in milk is decidedly -objectionable; yet the early Dutch settlers -planted the chives in the pastures for the cows -to eat, thereby imparting to the milk this peculiar -flavor.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fillet of Flounder, Tartar Sauce.</b>—Cut -the flesh from the bone lengthwise, and then -cut each piece into strips an inch wide. Dip -them in beaten egg. Roll them in cracker-crumbs, -and fry in hot fat enough to cover them. -This dish appears on our French bills-of-fare as -<i>filet de sole</i>. Serve with <i>sauce tartare</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fried Tomcods.</b>—These delicate, sweet-flavored -pan-fish are called frost-fish by dealers, -but the fishermen along the Hudson call them -“Tommies.” Whatever name they are known -by, they are delicious morsels when fresh caught. -Clean them without removing the heads, dry -them in a napkin, and salt their insides, dredge -them with a little flour, and fry them crisp in -hot smoking fat. Put the clean fish into a -baking-tin. Over each fish place a thin slice -of bacon, add salt and pepper, and bake them -twenty minutes in a hot oven.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Salt Codfish.</b>—Cut half of a -small codfish into medium-sized square pieces; -split them in two, and soak them over night -in cold water. Drain, and dry them in a napkin, -next morning. Rub a little butter over each -piece, and broil them. Place them on a hot -platter, and pour a little melted butter over -them.</p> - -<p>Drawn butter is sometimes served with this -dish. It should be very smooth looking, and -have a starchy appearance. Divide three ounces -of butter into little balls. Dredge them with -flour. Put one-fourth of them into a saucepan, -and when they begin to melt, whisk to a smooth -consistency. Now add one more of the floured -balls, and whisk thoroughly until incorporated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span> -with the first. Repeat this process until all are -used. When smooth and thick, stir in a teaspoonful -of lemon-juice, and, if liked, a little -chopped parsley.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Salt Mackerel.</b>—“I like salt -mackerel, but it does not agree with me,” is a -remark often heard in nearly all classes of society. -Many imagine they can eat cured fish with the -same degree of recklessness and lack of regard -for dietetic laws which they often show in eating -more digestible food. They soon discover, -however, that something is radically wrong; just -where the blame rests, is a matter they settle to -their own satisfaction by declaring that salt mackerel -was not intended for civilized people, because -they are unable to eat it without experiencing -disagreeable after-effects.</p> - -<p>Salt mackerel is really wholesome food, but, -like all cured food, is not so digestible as when -fresh: it is therefore necessary to restore it as -near as possible to its original freshness. This -is done by a thorough soaking in a liberal quantity -of fresh water. There is no danger of the -fish becoming too fresh; if it does, it is an easy -matter to add fresh salt, which is much more -acceptable than condensed brine.</p> - -<p>In selecting salt mackerel, examine them carefully. -If rusty in appearance reject them,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> “for -rust in fish, if I am not mistaken, is as bad as -rust in steel or rust in bacon.” Large fish are -likely to be poor and coarse; a medium-sized or -No. 2 is the most profitable provided the white -or under part of the fish is fat. After soaking -thoroughly, rub a little melted butter or olive-oil -over them, and broil not too close to the fire; do -not cook them enough to dry up all moisture, as -they would then be unpalatable. After broiling, -plunge them into boiling water for a moment to -swell them,—this treatment gives the fish the -appearance of being fat,—place on a hot plate, -add a little melted butter, a dash of pepper, and -finally the juice of half a lemon.</p> - -<p>To avoid the unpleasantness referred to, drink -all liquids first, before eating a mouthful of the -fish; masticate the food thoroughly and slowly, -and the result will be surprising. Those who -eat salt fish alternated with mouthfuls of liquid -must expect the oily particles to rise up, and -create a gastronomic disturbance.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fried Porgies with Salt Pork.</b>—The -much-abused porgy is one of the sweetest of -pan-fish. Select four good-sized porgies, and -clean them, but do not remove the heads. Cut -into small dice a quarter of a pound of fat salt -pork, fry out the fat, and when it is very hot fry -the fish in it. While they are cooking, broil four<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span> -small thin slices of the pork, and serve by placing -them on top of the fish. Pork gives a more -delicate flavor to the fish than bacon.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fish Curries.</b>—Cold boiled or baked fish -is simply a luxury when warmed up in a delicious -curry sauce. This dish may be served at breakfast -or luncheon. Americans are fast learning -the usefulness of curry-powders; as yet they demand -a mild form of curry, and a little flour is -added to the sauce to tone down the pungency -of the curry.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>A Plain Fish Curry.</b>—Fry an onion quite -brown in a little butter or oil, add a teaspoonful -of curry-powder and half a pint of hot water. -Dissolve a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold -water; when free from lumps add it to the sauce, -then strain; divide the cold fish into flakes, and -warm it up in the sauce.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Scallops.</b>—Wash a quart of -scallops in cold water, drain, put them in a saucepan, -and let them simmer gently one hour. -Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, remove -husks, and fry a delicate brown; drain from the -hot butter, and pound to a paste with a clove of -garlic, the grated rind of a lemon. Mix two teaspoonfuls -of curry, a little sauce, and an ounce -of butter, put it in the frying-pan, and add gradually -one half-pint of the scallop broth and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span> -almond paste. Now add a pint of hot milk; -simmer until the liquid is reduced one-third, -add the scallops, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Crayfish.</b>—These may be purchased -by the quart at all seasons. They are -already boiled. Prepare the curry sauce as -above described, add the crayfish, and serve -with rice; over all squeeze the juice of a sweet -orange.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Eels, with Rice.</b>—Cut into two-inch -pieces one medium-sized eel or two small -ones; put them in a saucepan, and cover with -boiling water; add a little salt, a piece of lemon-peel, -and a tablespoonful of vinegar; boil slowly -one hour, and drain. Cut up a small onion, and -fry it brown in a little butter; add a pint of -the water in which the fish was boiled, and a -teaspoonful of walnut catsup. Mix together -a teaspoonful of flour with a gill of cold water, -rub it smooth, and add a teaspoonful of dry curry-powder. -Mix, and add it to the pan, strain, and -return to the pan; then add the eels; simmer -fifteen minutes, and serve surrounded by a border -of boiled rice.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Shad Roe.</b>—Fry half an onion -very brown in a heaping teaspoonful of dripping; -add a teaspoonful of curry-powder, and a few -moments later add a gill of hot water; simmer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span> -five minutes, and add a teaspoonful of flour -dissolved in a little water. When it begins to -thicken, strain. While preparing the sauce, boil -two roes in water well salted. When done, place -them on a hot platter, and pour the sauce over -them.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Frogs’ Legs.</b>—This is an excellent -dish. Wash one pound of frogs’ legs in cold -water; brown one-fourth of an onion in oil or -butter; add a teaspoonful of curry and a pint of -hot water; pour this in a saucepan, and add the -frogs; simmer an hour and a half, and drain. -Mix a teaspoonful each of rice-flour and curry -to a paste, with the broth; add salt to taste, -and half a pint of milk. Place on the range, and -when hot add the frogs. Blanch two dozen sweet -almonds; rub off the skins, split them, and toss -them about in hot butter; season with pepper -and salt; when done squeeze a little lemon-juice -over them, and send to table on separate dish -with the curry.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Weakfish.</b>—When freshly caught, -this is an excellent fish and well flavored; but -it loses its flavor when kept on ice more than -a day, and the flesh becomes soft and spongy. -In color the weakfish is of a bluish-gray, with -faint speckled back and sides, belly white, the -fins yellow. It is in season from May to Octo<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span>ber, -and is best-flavored in the latest two months -of that time. Select a medium-sized fish for -broiling; see that the flesh is firm, the eyes -bright, and the gills a bright red, and free from a -soft, flabby appearance. Place the well-cleaned -whole fish on the table or fish-board, back -towards you; make an incision close to the -head, down to the bone; hold the head firmly -with the left hand, and cut the fish in two lengthwise, -keeping the knife close to the bone the -whole length of the fish; remove the bone. (The -bone and head may be boiled a few hours, seasoned, -and the broth used in fast-day soups.) -Cut each piece of fish in two, crosswise; rub on -a little sweet oil or melted butter; broil the -outer side first, then the inner side, and serve -with this side upwards on the hot dish; pour -over the fish well-made drawn butter (which -see).</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Baked Whitefish, Bordeaux Sauce.</b>—Clean -and stuff the fish. Put it in a baking-pan, -and add a liberal quantity of butter, previously -rolled in flour, to the fish. Put in the pan half -a pint of claret, and bake for an hour. Remove -the fish, and strain the gravy; add to the latter -a gill more of claret, a teaspoonful of brown -flour, and a pinch of cayenne, and serve with -the fish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span></p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Halibut, Egg Sauce.</b>—Select a three-pound -piece of white halibut, cover it with a -cloth, and place it in a steamer; set the steamer -over a pot of fast boiling water, and steam two -hours; place it on a hot dish, surrounded with -a border of parsley; and serve with egg-sauce, -which is made as follows:—</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Egg Sauce.</b>—Cream an ounce of butter; -add to it one tablespoonful of dry flour, a saltspoonful -of salt, and half a saltspoonful of white -pepper (black pepper spoils its color). Stir it -briskly, and add half a pint of hot water. Divide -an ounce of butter into little balls, roll them in -flour, and add them one at a time; stir constantly, -and care should be exercised not to -allow the sauce to brown or discolor. Chop -three cold hard-boiled eggs, and add them to -the sauce; let it heat thoroughly, and serve in a -boat.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Fried Butterfish.</b>—These flat, slate-colored -little fish are excellent when quite fresh; -and as they are easily cleaned, they are recommended -to house-keepers. Fry them in tried-out -salt-pork fat, which gives them a very nice -flavor.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Shad.</b>—The secret of having the -fish juicy, and at the same time properly cooked, -is to rub a little olive-oil over it before broiling,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span> -and broil it over a fire free from smoke or flame. -Charcoal affords the best fire. The sulphurous -fumes of hard coal injure the flavor of the fish. -When done, have ready a little sweet butter melted -and mixed with salt, white pepper (black pepper -spoils the looks of the fish), half a teaspoonful -of chopped parsley to two ounces of butter, and -the juice of half a lemon. Place the fish on a -hot dish, pour the hot sauce over it, and serve -with hot plates.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Baked Shad.</b>—Broiling is, next to planking, -the best way of cooking this excellent fish; but -a baked shad is not to be despised. Prepare it -as follows:—</p> - -<p>Make a stuffing of soaked bread-crumbs, butter, -pepper, and salt; place it lengthwise in a pan; -roll walnuts of butter in flour, and put four to -six of them on top of the fish; fill the space -around the fish with inch slices of raw potato, -and bake forty minutes. When done, serve potatoes -and fish together.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Shad Roe à la Poulette.</b>—Cover a pair -of roes with water slightly salted; add a tablespoonful -of vinegar and a slice of lemon; simmer -twenty minutes, and drain; put into a saucepan -an ounce of butter; when it begins to melt, whisk -it, and add the juice of half a lemon.</p> - -<p>Beat up the yolk of one egg with a gill of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span> -cream containing half a teaspoonful of flour -rubbed free from lumps; whisk this gently into -the warm butter; keep it quite warm until it -thickens, but do not boil, or it will curdle. Pour -it over the shad roes, strew over the top a trifle -of chopped parsley, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Royans.</b>—These delicate little fish -are excellent as whet at dinner-parties, and may -be served <i>au naturel</i>, or broiled, or served on -toast. Procure them from the nearest grocer, -open the can carefully to prevent breaking the -fish, remove the skin, and broil them over a -slow fire; arrange them on toast, squeeze a little -lemon-juice over them, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Sardines.</b>—When neatly prepared, -this forms an excellent breakfast or luncheon -dish.</p> - -<p>Remove the sardines from the can without -breaking them; scrape off the skin, place them -between double wire broilers, and broil to a -delicate brown; arrange neatly in a hot dish, -squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, and serve. -Orange-juice is very nice with the above dish.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Smelts, Sauce Tartare.</b>—Thoroughly -clean half a dozen smelts, split them in -two, place them on a double wire broiler, and -broil. Send to table with <i>sauce tartare</i>, which -is made as follows: Chop together a few sprigs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span> -of parsley, six capers, one small pickle, a piece of -onion as large as a bean. Add these to half a -pint of mayonnaise, mix, and add a teaspoonful -of French mustard, mix again, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Smelts Fried, Sauce Tartare.</b>—Clean -six small smelts, leave on the heads, dip them in -beaten egg, roll them in fine cracker-dust, -and fry in very hot fat. Serve with sauce -tartare.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Whitefish.</b>—The whitefish is one -of the best of summer fish, but does not stand -long transportation very well. See that the flesh -is firm, and free from flabbiness. Cut the fish -in two lengthwise, remove the backbone, divide -each piece in two; brush over it a little sweet -butter or olive-oil, and broil over a moderate fire -for ten minutes. Place it in a hot dish, squeeze -the juice of a lemon over it, add salt and pepper -and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Garnish -with tufts of parsley and thin slices of lemon, -and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Sheeps-head with Drawn Butter.</b>—The -Englishman who wrote the extraordinary statement -that sheeps-head sometimes sold for “four -or five pounds sterling in New York” may be -pleased to learn that the price for this excellent -fish is fifteen to eighteen cents per pound on an -average, and that the best mode of preparing it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span> -for table is to boil or steam it, although broiled -sheeps-head is very good.</p> - -<p>Procure a medium-sized fish, clean it thoroughly, -and rub a little salt over it; wrap it in a -cloth, and put it in a steamer; place this over -a pot of fast boiling water, and steam one hour; -then lay it whole upon a hot side-dish, garnish -with tufts of parsley and slices of lemon, and -serve with drawn butter prepared as follows:—</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Drawn Butter.</b>—Take four ounces of -butter, and roll it into small balls; dredge these -with flour; put one-fourth of them in a saucepan, -and as they begin to melt whisk them; add -the remainder, one at a time, until thoroughly -smooth; while stirring add a tablespoonful of -lemon-juice and half a teaspoonful of chopped -parsley; pour into a hot sauce-boat, and serve.</p> - - -<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Sheeps-head.</b>—Split the fish in -two lengthwise, and remove the head and bone, -brush over the fish a liberal quantity of melted -butter or oil, then broil over a fire free from -flame or smoke. When done, squeeze the juice -of a lemon over the fish, then add salt, pepper, -and a pat of the choicest table butter.</p> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="transnote"> -<h3>Transcriber's Note</h3> - -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Other -variations in hyphenation, spelling and punctuation remain unchanged.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OYSTERS AND FISH***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 53521-h.htm or 53521-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/3/5/2/53521">http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/5/2/53521</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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