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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #53521 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53521)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oysters and Fish, by Thomas J. (Thomas
-Jefferson) Murrey
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: Oysters and Fish
-
-
-Author: Thomas J. (Thomas Jefferson) Murrey
-
-
-
-Release Date: November 13, 2016 [eBook #53521]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OYSTERS AND FISH***
-
-
-E-text prepared by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team
-(http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by
-Internet Archive (https://archive.org)
-
-
-
-Note: Images of the original pages are available through
- Internet Archive. See
- https://archive.org/details/oystersfish00murr
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
-
- Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
-
- Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
-
-
-
-
-
-OYSTERS AND FISH
-
-by
-
-THOMAS J. MURREY
-
-Author of “Fifty Soups,” “Fifty Salads,” “Breakfast
-Dainties,” “Puddings and Dainty Desserts,” “The
-Book of Entrées,” “Cookery for Invalids,”
-“Practical Carving,” “Luncheon,” “Valuable
-Cooking Recipes,” etc.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-New York
-Copyright, 1888, by
-Frederick A. Stokes & Brother
-1888
-
-
-
-
- DEDICATION.
-
-
- _To the Inventor of the_
-
- SHELDON CLOSE-TOP GAS-STOVE,
-
- _Who spent the best part of his life solving the
- perplexed problem of Economy in Fuel and
- Labor in our homes, and to those gentlemen
- connected with gas companies, who assisted
- and encouraged him, this little work is
- most respectfully dedicated by_
-
- THE AUTHOR.
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS.
-
-
- PAGE
-
- INTRODUCTORY 11
-
- THE OYSTER 11
-
- THE OYSTER SEASON 11
-
- OYSTERS OUT OF SEASON 12
-
- OYSTERS PRESERVED IN SHELL 12
-
- THE FOOD OF THE OYSTER 14
-
- FORMATION OF THE DEEP SHELL 14
-
- COCK OYSTERS 15
-
- GREEN OYSTERS 15
-
- BANQUET OYSTERS 16
-
- ORDERING OYSTERS FOR THE FAMILY TABLE 17
-
- HOW OYSTERS SHOULD BE OPENED 18
-
- HOW TO SERVE RAW OYSTERS 18
-
- COLLATION SERVICE 19
-
- HOW TO EAT A RAW OYSTER 19
-
- A BARREL OF OYSTERS 20
-
- READ THIS! 20
-
-
- COOKED OYSTERS 21
-
- STEWED OYSTERS 21
-
- PHILADELPHIA FRIED OYSTERS 22
-
- CURRY OF OYSTERS 24
-
- PICKLED-OYSTER OMELET 24
-
- DEVILED OYSTERS ON TOAST 24
-
- PICKLED OYSTERS 24
-
- SCALLOPED OYSTERS 25
-
- OYSTER SALAD 25
-
- PLAIN FRIED OYSTERS 26
-
- MISS PARLOA’S “NEW COOK-BOOK” 26
-
- OYSTER TOAST 26
-
- OYSTER OMELET 26
-
- OYSTERS, BROILED 27
-
- TRIPE WITH OYSTERS 27
-
- OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE 27
-
- FRIED OYSTERS 28
-
- OYSTER AND CANNED SALMON PIE 28
-
- OYSTER PATTIES 28
-
- OYSTERS À LA POULETTE 29
-
- PIE OF OYSTERS AND SCALLOPS 29
-
- STEAMED OYSTERS 30
-
- TO SERVE STEAMED OYSTERS 30
-
- ROAST OYSTERS 31
-
- BAKED OYSTERS 31
-
-
- CLAMS 31
-
- LITTLE-NECK CLAMS 31
-
- SOFT CLAMS IN CHAFING-DISH 32
-
- STEWED LITTLE-NECK CLAMS 33
-
- SOFT CLAMS 33
-
- SOFT-SHELL CLAMS SCALLOPED 33
-
- CLAM TOAST 34
-
- CLAM BROTH 34
-
- CLAM FRITTERS 34
-
- FRIED SOFT CLAMS 35
-
-
- CRABS 35
-
- HARD-SHELL CRABS 35
-
- CRAB PATTIES, CREAM SAUCE 36
-
- SOFT-SHELL CRABS 37
-
- THE CARE OF SOFT CRABS 38
-
- CRABS, SOFT-SHELL 39
-
- CRAB CROQUETTES 39
-
- CRAB PATTIES, À LA BECHAMEL 40
-
- CRABS, À L’AMÉRICAINE 41
-
- CRABS, DEVILED 41
-
-
- SCALLOPS 42
-
- SCALLOP BROTH 42
-
- SMALL PATTIES OF SCALLOPS 43
-
- FRIED SCALLOPS 43
-
- SCALLOPS EN BROCHETTE 44
-
- STEWED SCALLOPS 44
-
-
- MUSSELS 44
-
- THE MUSSEL 44
-
-
- THE LOBSTER 45
-
- REMARKS ON THE LOBSTER 45
-
- THE SEASON FOR LOBSTER 45
-
- SOFT-SHELL LOBSTER NOT EDIBLE 46
-
- SELECTING LOBSTERS 46
-
- VALUE OF THE LOBSTER AS FOOD 46
-
- BROILED LOBSTER 47
-
- LOBSTER CROQUETTES WITH PEASE 48
-
- LOBSTERS EN BROCHETTE 48
-
- DEVILED LOBSTER 49
-
- STEWED LOBSTER, À LA CRÉOLE 49
-
- CURRY OF LOBSTER 50
-
- LOBSTER SALAD 50
-
-
- THE OYSTER CRAB 51
-
- TO SERVE OYSTER CRABS 52
-
- OYSTER-CRAB OMELET 52
-
- OYSTER-CRAB SAUCE 52
-
- ACKNOWLEDGMENT 53
-
-
- SHRIMPS 53
-
- MARKET PRICE OF SHRIMPS 54
-
- SHRIMP OMELET 54
-
- SHRIMP SAUCE 54
-
-
- PRAWNS 54
-
- CURRY OF PRAWNS 55
-
- PRAWNS, DEVILED, EN COQUILLE 55
-
- PRAWNS, SAUTÉ, À LA MARENGO 55
-
- PRAWN SALAD 56
-
-
- CRAYFISH 56
-
- CRAYFISH OMELET 57
-
-
- SALMON 57
-
- SALMON STEAK 57
-
- CANNED SALMON 57
-
- SALMON PATTIES 58
-
- SALMON SURPRISE 59
-
- SALMON À LA CRÉOLE 59
-
- SALMON PIE 60
-
- SALMON IN JELLY 60
-
- SALMON OMELET 61
-
- SALMON, GERMAN STYLE 61
-
- SALMON À L’ITALIENNE 61
-
- SALMON À LA HOLLANDAISE 62
-
- SALMON, HUNTER’S STYLE 62
-
- BOUILLABAISSE 63
-
-
- CODFISH 63
-
- BOILED CODFISH, OYSTER SAUCE 63
-
- CODFISH TONGUES 64
-
- CODFISH STEAK 64
-
- NEW-ENGLAND CODFISH BALLS 65
-
- BAKED COD 66
-
- SALT CODFISH WITH CREAM 66
-
- SCROD 67
-
-
- BROOK TROUT 67
-
- BROOK TROUT, SPORTSMAN STYLE 68
-
- BROILED TROUT 69
-
- BROOK TROUT, BAKED 69
-
- BROOK TROUT, BOILED 70
-
-
- MISCELLANEOUS 70
-
- CATFISH, FRIED 70
-
- TENDERLOIN TROUT 71
-
- FRICASSEED EELS 71
-
- EEL PATTIES 72
-
- STEWED EELS, HOBOKEN TURTLE CLUB STYLE 72
-
- PAN BASS, ANCHOVY BUTTER 73
-
- FILLET OF FLOUNDER, TARTAR SAUCE 74
-
- FRIED TOMCODS 75
-
- BROILED SALT CODFISH 75
-
- BROILED SALT MACKEREL 76
-
- FRIED PORGIES WITH SALT PORK 77
-
- FISH CURRIES 78
-
- A PLAIN FISH CURRY 78
-
- CURRY OF SCALLOPS 78
-
- CURRY OF CRAYFISH 79
-
- CURRY OF EELS, WITH RICE 79
-
- CURRY OF SHAD ROE 79
-
- CURRY OF FROGS’ LEGS 80
-
- BROILED WEAKFISH 80
-
- BAKED WHITEFISH, BORDEAUX SAUCE 81
-
- HALIBUT, EGG SAUCE 82
-
- EGG SAUCE 82
-
- FRIED BUTTERFISH 82
-
- BROILED SHAD 82
-
- BAKED SHAD 83
-
- SHAD ROE À LA POULETTE 83
-
- BROILED ROYANS 84
-
- BROILED SARDINES 84
-
- BROILED SMELTS, SAUCE TARTARE 84
-
- SMELTS FRIED, SAUCE TARTARE 85
-
- BROILED WHITEFISH 85
-
- SHEEP’S-HEAD WITH DRAWN BUTTER 85
-
- DRAWN BUTTER 86
-
- BROILED SHEEP’S-HEAD 86
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTORY.
-
-
-Would it not be beneficial, were the average American to substitute
-fish for the everlasting steak and chop of the breakfast-table?
-
-For the sake of variety, if for no other reason, we should eat more
-fish; and it need not always be fried or broiled. A well-made fish stew
-or a curry should be acceptable to the majority of us, and undoubtedly
-would be if appetizingly prepared.
-
-This little work does not by any means propose to exhaust the subject
-of sea-food, for the subject is almost inexhaustible; but it places
-within the reach of all a series of recipes and suggestions extremely
-valuable to the average housewife.
-
-
-
-
-THE OYSTER.
-
-
-=The Oyster Season= opens in the city of New York on the first day
-of September, and closes on the last day of April in each year. The
-annual amount of business done in the oyster trade is close on to
-$5,000,000. Each successive year witnesses an increase in the business.
-
-Notwithstanding the R canon, there are thousands of persons who eat
-oysters at the summer resorts along the seashore throughout hot weather.
-
-
-=Oysters out of Season.=--The writer does not recommend the eating of
-oysters out of their season, no matter how fresh they may be, or how
-appetizing they may appear.
-
-To supply the demands made upon them by summer resorts, oyster-planters
-shift the oysters, during the spawning season, from warm shallow water
-to cold deep water. This checks or prevents the oysters from spawning,
-and to all appearance they are edible; but the writer firmly believes
-that interfering with the laws of nature affects the health of the
-oyster, and they cannot be as wholesome as planters would have us
-believe.
-
-
-=Oysters Preserved in Shell.=--So long as the oyster retains its
-natural juices, it will live out of water, provided the changes in
-the temperature are not too sudden. The moment the oyster opens its
-shells, however, the juices run out, and in a short time afterward the
-oyster dies. To prevent the oyster opening its stony overcoat, is
-the object of oyster-shippers; and the Patent Office bears witness to
-their many devices having this object in view. Some wire the shells,
-others clasp or envelope the broad end of the shells with tin or
-other metal. No doubt these devices aid in keeping the oyster alive
-and fresh a little longer. Whether the nervous system of the oyster
-is affected by the process, is a question. Scientists tell us that
-oysters possess organs of sensation, and all who have handled oysters
-learn in time that a sudden jar or shock will kill them. The jar of the
-machinery of a steamboat will sometimes kill an oyster. When shipped
-to Europe they are ordered to be stored as far away from the machinery
-as possible. Some authorities claim that the oyster can hear. One
-cannot noisily approach an oyster-bed at feeding time without their
-hearing, and instantly every shell is closed. A cloud or a boat passing
-over an oyster-bank will cause every shell to close with proverbial
-tightness, and the sound of thunder will often kill them while they are
-in transit,--conclusive evidence that the nervous system in an oyster,
-while not highly developed, is of sufficient importance to merit
-attention from those who roughly handle oysters.
-
-=The Food of the Oyster= consists of minute animal and vegetable
-organisms and small particles of organized matter. Ordinary sea-water
-contains an abundance of this sort of food, which is drawn into the
-gills with the water. As the water strains through the pores into
-the water tubes, the food particles are caught on the surface of the
-gills by a layer of adhesive slime. As soon as they are entangled,
-the microscopic hair-like projections on the gills strike against
-them in such a way as to slide them along the gills toward the mouth.
-When they reach the anterior ends of the gills, they are pushed off,
-and fall between the lips, which are also covered with thin hair-like
-projections, which carry the particles forward until they slide into
-the mouth. No wonder the intelligent tramp wished that he might become
-an oyster. His food would then come to him in a sort of endless
-progression.
-
-
-=Formation of the Deep Shell.=--Although the oyster lies upon the
-bottom with one shell above and one below, the shells are not upon the
-top and bottom of the body, but upon the right and left sides. The
-two shells are symmetrical in the young oyster; but after it becomes
-attached, the lower or attached side grows faster than the other, and
-becomes deep and spoon-shaped, while the free valve remains nearly
-flat. In nearly every case the lower or deep valve is the left.
-
-
-=Cock Oysters.=--There is a belief among oyster-eaters, that the
-dark-gray or black oysters are male oysters, and are therefore superior
-to the female oyster. Such misinformation was evidently promulgated
-by oyster-openers in anticipation of a tip for serving selected
-oysters. There is no truth in the assertion, however, for there are
-just as many black female oysters as there are black male oysters.
-There is no characteristic color by which a male or cock oyster can
-be distinguished from a female oyster. Microscopic examination, or a
-scientific eye, is the means of discovering the sex of an oyster.
-
-The black-oyster romance is of ancient origin. The Roman
-oyster-smashers successfully “worked it” on Pliny, Horace, and other
-ancient writers and epicures.
-
-
-=Green Oysters.=--At least a million dollars worth of oysters are
-annually destroyed in New-York waters by sludge acid from the oil
-refineries and illegal dumpings. The acid kills the oysters the instant
-it touches them, and turns them green. There is very little danger that
-a poisoned oyster will reach the consumer, but the loss to the planter
-is enormous.
-
-The green tint of the oyster, or in fact any distinguished color the
-oyster may possess, is due to the color of its food and to the nature
-of the surrounding bottom. The bottom of the Shrewsbury River is mud;
-the oysters take on a peculiar tawny color from their muddy bed.
-Rockaway oysters exist on a hard sandy bottom. If the beds are covered
-with sea-lettuce, as they often are, the oysters take on a delicate
-green tint. When the lettuce is removed by a strong tide or high wind,
-the oysters gradually assume their white, slightly grayish color. Their
-shells are round, thin, and brittle. The shells from mud bottoms are
-long, narrow, thick, and spongy. Intruded mud is enclosed by a thin
-layer of pearly shell.
-
-The oyster epicure may rest assured of one fact. No matter what the
-color of an oyster may be, so long as it is alive and seasonable it is
-wholesome. It cannot absorb enough foreign matter to injure the epicure
-without committing suicide, and there is no possible danger of any one
-_swallowing_ a dead oyster.
-
-
-=Banquet Oysters.=--As served at the average public banquet, the
-raw oyster is a thing of terror to appetite and to weak digestive
-organs. When looking for one’s seat, where, through an oversight,
-one is not furnished with a chart of the tables, one beholds six
-very small emaciated oysters. The heat in the room has absorbed their
-moisture, afterwards the bed of fine ice on which they were placed
-has melted, and the water overflowed them, thereby finishing the work
-of destruction. One must be under the influence of the sherry and
-Vermouth of the reception-rooms, to be willing to begin the feast with
-such an introductory course. No wonder fashionable society demands a
-substitute for the oyster as the dinner season progresses. In the name
-of humanity, order the oysters to table and announce the dinner at
-the same time. Guests are willing to wait a few moments for toothsome
-oysters, provided they are direct from the ice-box.
-
-
-=Ordering Oysters for the Family Table.=--Send the servant to the
-nearest dealer, a few minutes before the oysters are wanted, and let
-her wait for them. In this way one is quite sure of procuring freshly
-opened oysters. Many dealers begin opening oysters for their family
-orders hours before they are to be served; and the result is, they have
-lost much of their juices before being served.
-
-Miss Parloa’s “New Cook Book” says, “Six large oysters are usually
-allowed each person.” This error should be corrected in future
-editions. Large raw oysters on the half-shell are only served at
-oyster-counters to countrymen, and are not served at a dinner, no
-matter how unpretentious or how elaborate the affair may be.
-
-
-=How Oysters should be opened.=--In the author’s work on “Luncheon,”
-reference is made to the great care which should be exercised in
-opening oysters; and it will bear repeating. Reject all oysters opened
-by the “smashing” process. The shells are not only broken and ragged,
-but, should a person swallow a ragged splinter of oyster-shell, there
-is great danger of its killing him. Insist on it that your oysters are
-opened by the so-called “stabbing” process.
-
-
-=How to serve Raw Oysters.=--If for a quiet family affair, where
-“opened” oysters are used, keep the plates in ice-water, and dry them
-before placing the oysters on them. For more pretentious affairs, but
-where fancy oyster-plates are not a part of the dinner service, use
-soup-plates. Fill them with fine cracked ice, place a dainty doily
-over each, and set the oysters on top of the doily. The lemon should
-be served on a side-dish, and not in the centre of the dish as though
-one were dining in a restaurant. Four small Rockaways are sufficient
-to serve at the ordinary course dinner. In nine cases are out of
-ten, Rockaways are served instead of the Blue Points. It is therefore
-advisable to order the former; the dealer might make a mistake if he
-had them in stock, and send the latter.
-
-It is quite English to serve raw oysters on the flat half-shell, but it
-is quite American to serve them on the deep shell. The American way is
-the best.
-
-
-=Collation Service.=--At evening collations, the oysters are served in
-the centre of a block of ice. A clear, square block of ice is selected,
-and a cavity or receptacle is made in it by the aid of a hot flat-iron
-held close to the ice. If one has patience, the cavity may be shaved
-out with an ice shave; if a pick is used, one is likely to split the
-cake of ice. An ice boat is easily formed by holding a hot flat-iron to
-a long piece of ice. Holes may be made through the bottom of the block
-of ice, and filled with brilliant flowers; and the outer sides and top
-should be handsomely decorated with flowers and smilax. If electric
-lights are used in the house, it is an easy matter to place them in the
-cake of ice: the effect is striking. The wires are carried from the
-room below the dining-room, or under the carpet.
-
-
-=How to eat a Raw Oyster.=--Avoid as much as possible the use of
-condiments, when eating oysters. They were never intended as an
-accompaniment of the oyster, and are only used by country people.
-A suspicion of lemon; a dash of salt when the dealer has kept them
-covered with cracked ice, and the descending ice-water washed out all
-sea flavor; and, for palates grown callous, a dash of cayenne. Such
-abominations as ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, etc., should never be
-used. Do not bolt the oyster, but masticate it; and one will soon learn
-to tell the different oysters by their different flavors. By bolting
-them, one will never know how to thoroughly appreciate them.
-
-
-=A Barrel of Oysters.=--Persons living away from the city are advised
-to purchase oysters by the barrel. If kept with the deep shell down,
-and in a cool place, they will live a long time. The novice is likely
-to bruise fingers in vain attempts to open them; but, like carving,
-the opening of oysters should be part of a man’s education. Then there
-is the charm of roasting the oysters in the old-fashioned fire-place.
-Here the novice may burn a finger or two, but then it’s fun for the
-youngsters.
-
-
-=Read this!=--In W. Mattieu Williams’s “Chemistry of Cookery,” I
-find the following: “More than half a century has elapsed since Dr.
-Beaumont published the results of his experiments on Alexis St. Martin.
-These showed that fresh raw oysters required two hours and fifty-five
-minutes to digest, and stewed fresh oysters three and a half hours for
-digestion; against one hour for boiled tripe, and three hours for roast
-or boiled beef or mutton.”
-
-The general impression among the people is, that raw oysters digest
-almost as soon as they become of the same temperature of the stomach.
-
-
-
-
-COOKED OYSTERS.
-
-
-=Stewed Oysters.=--Boil half a pint of milk; add to it eleven
-good-sized oysters, a walnut of butter, a dash of salt and of pepper.
-Allow the milk to boil up just once, and serve.
-
-The average cook puts the oysters on first, and after they boil cold
-milk is added. When the milk boils, the stew is served. The result
-of such treatment of the oyster causes it to shrivel so that it is
-hardly recognizable, and a good-sized oyster becomes a mere sprat. From
-this process of cooking originated the ancient moth-eaten jokes about
-church-fair stews.
-
-Cooked as in the foregoing recipe, the oyster retains its plump
-characteristics.
-
-
-=Philadelphia Fried Oysters.=--The author originally published this
-recipe in the New York “Evening Sun” by request.
-
-The average New Yorker may call the City of Brotherly Love a sleepy
-sort of a place, but it is wide enough awake gastronomically. It has
-within its city limits cooks who prepare fried oysters that fairly
-melt in one’s mouth. They are so delicate that there is not a pang of
-dyspepsia in a whole winter’s supply of the toothsome dainties. The
-reputation of Finneli’s Philadelphia fried oysters extends from Maine
-to California; and immense sums have been offered for the recipe, but
-its owner would not sell his secret at any price.
-
-Beat up three eggs thoroughly; add half a pint of oyster-juice,
-a pepper-spoonful of cayenne, a saltspoonful of black pepper, a
-tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of English mustard. Work
-the mixture to a batter, and gradually add a gill of oil. Now comes
-the more particular part of the formula. Cover a board or part of a
-table with a layer of cracker-crumbs half an inch deep. Drain fifty
-oysters free from liquid, place them on the cracker-crumbs, and
-dredge over them more cracker-crumbs. See to it that one oyster is
-not on top of another. Pick up each oyster by its beard, and dip it
-in the batter. Have ready a quantity of bread-crumbs grated from the
-white part of stale bread; spread this out on the table, and after
-the oysters have been dipped in the batter lay them carefully on the
-bread-crumbs two inches apart. After they are all spread out, turn them
-over neatly, which will bread-crumb the other side. Dip them in the
-batter again by taking hold of the beard, and again spread them out on
-the bread-crumbs. Under no circumstances place one oyster on top of
-another, or in any way press them together; this would make them heavy.
-When the fat is so hot that the smoke from it would light a match, then
-fry them by again taking hold of the beard, one at a time, and dropping
-them into the fat. When they are dark brown, take them up, and strew
-over them a quantity of salt.
-
-The secret is in carefully handling the oyster after it has been
-breaded. How differently New York restaurants serve fried oysters!
-In almost every eating place in the city, one sees piles of oysters
-covered with a batter that plainly shows the cook purposely pressed
-them between his hands. When served they look more like liver-pads than
-human food. Nothing short of a human ostrich could possibly digest
-them. The Philadelphia oyster, however, is a culinary poem.
-
-
-=Curry of Oysters.=--Put an ounce of butter in a pan; add to it a
-teaspoon of curry-powder, and water enough to prevent burning. Put
-fifteen oysters in just water enough to cover them, simmer three
-minutes, and drain; thicken the broth with a teaspoonful of flour, salt
-to taste, stir this into the curry; add the oysters, simmer a moment,
-and serve with boiled rice.
-
-
-=Pickled-Oyster Omelet.=--Rinse six spiced or pickled oysters in cold
-water. Divide an ounce of butter into little balls, and roll them in
-flour; put them in a saucepan, heat gradually, and whisk to a cream;
-add a gill of hot water, salt and pepper. Cut the oysters in two,
-and add to the butter. Prepare an omelet in the usual manner; before
-folding, add the oysters; turn out on a hot dish, and serve.
-
-
-=Deviled Oysters on Toast.=--Mix together a heaping saltspoonful of
-mustard flour, half a saltspoonful each of white pepper and salt, and
-the yolk of one egg. Dip six oysters in the paste, then in fine crumbs,
-and broil over a moderate fire. When done, arrange on toast, and
-squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon.
-
-
-=Pickled Oysters.=--A few pickled oysters may be served instead of
-clams during warm weather. Scald a quart of oysters a moment, drain,
-and put them in jars. To a pint of oyster liquor, add half a pint of
-hot water and half a pint of hot vinegar; pour over the oysters; add
-three cloves, four whole peppers, a small bit of mace, and a slice of
-lemon, to each jar. This will be sufficient for two ordinary fruit-jars.
-
-
-=Scalloped Oysters.=--Put in the bottom of a yellow dish two ounces of
-sweet butter, divided into little pieces. Add a layer of raw oysters,
-and cover them with cracker-dust or bread-crumbs, and add salt and
-pepper to taste; another layer of oysters, and so on until the dish is
-full, the last or top layer to be crumbs, and between each layer there
-should be a small amount of butter. Moisten the ingredients with a
-liberal quantity of oyster liquid, put small butter balls on top of the
-dish, and bake a delicate brown color. Oysters were formerly baked in a
-scalloped or shell-shaped dish, hence the name.
-
-
-=Oyster Salad.=--Boil two dozen small oysters for five minutes in water
-enough to cover them; add a little salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar;
-drain and cool. Put into a salad-bowl the centre leaves of two heads of
-cabbage lettuce, add the oysters whole, pour over them a mayonnaise;
-garnish with oyster-crabs, hard-boiled eggs, and, if liked, a few
-anchovies cut into fillets.
-
-
-=Plain Fried Oysters.=--As a rule, fried oysters are not served as
-a breakfast dish, owing to the coating with which they are usually
-surrounded. Served plain, however, they are quite acceptable. Dry them
-well in a napkin, and roll them in a little flour to insure that they
-are quite dry, then cook them in a very little hot dripping.
-
-Miss Parloa’s “New Cook-Book” says, “a quart of oysters is enough for a
-party of ten” (p. 118). There are from twenty to twenty-five oysters in
-a quart, rarely more than this.
-
-
-=Oyster Toast.=--Select fifteen plump oysters; chop them fine, and add
-salt, pepper, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Beat up the yolks of two eggs
-with a gill of cream; whisk this into the simmering oysters. When set,
-pour the whole over slices of buttered toast.
-
-
-=Oyster Omelet.=--Stew six oysters in their own liquor for five
-minutes; remove the oysters, and thicken the liquid with a walnut of
-butter rolled in flour; season with salt and cayenne; whisk this to a
-cream. Chop the oysters, and add them to the sauce; simmer until the
-sauce thickens. Beat up four eggs lightly, and add a tablespoonful of
-cream; turn out into a hot pan, and fry a light gold-color. Before
-folding the omelet entirely, place the oysters with part of the sauce
-within, and turn it over on a hot dish. The remainder of the sauce
-should be poured round it.
-
-
-=Oysters Broiled.=--Rub the bars of a wire broiler with a little sweet
-butter; dry twelve large, plump oysters in a napkin, and place them on
-the broiler; brush a little butter over them, and broil over a fire
-free from flame and smoke. When done on both sides, arrange them neatly
-on toast; pour a little well-seasoned melted butter over them, and
-serve.
-
-Do not bread-crumb oysters intend for broiling.
-
-
-=Tripe with Oysters.=--Tripe, when properly prepared by a simple
-process, is very nutritious and easily digested.
-
-Cut up half a pound of well-washed tripe; simmer for three-quarters of
-an hour in water slightly salted; take out the tripe; add to the broth
-a little butter rolled in flour, salt and pepper; add a little more
-flour if not thick enough. Return the tripe and a dozen oysters; simmer
-for a few minutes longer, and serve.
-
-
-=Oysters en Brochette.=--Select one dozen choice oysters; plunge them
-into hot water a second to make them firm (this process is called
-blanching), then drain, and dip them into melted butter; arrange them
-on skewers with alternate layers of neatly sliced bacon; broil over a
-moderate fire. When done, add maitre-d’hôtel butter to them, and serve
-on the skewers.
-
-
-=Fried Oysters.=--Beat up the yolks of four eggs with three
-tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and season them with a teaspoonful of
-salt and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up thoroughly. Dry
-twelve fat oysters on a napkin; dip them in the egg batter, then in
-cracker-dust; shake off the loose cracker-dust, dip them again in the
-egg batter, and lastly roll them in fine _bread-crumbs_. Fry in very
-hot fat, using fat enough to cover them. The oil gives them a nice
-flavor.
-
-
-=Oyster and Canned Salmon Pie.=--One pound of best canned salmon, one
-pint of solid oysters, half a pint of oyster liquid; cover the bottom
-of the dish with neat pieces of the salmon, season with salt and pepper
-and an ounce of butter rolled in flour, add a few oysters, and so on
-until the ingredients are used. Pour in the liquid of both, and cover
-the top with paste. Bake in a moderate oven. There should be liquid
-enough to have the ingredients moist when served.
-
-
-=Oyster Patties.=--Roll out a pound of light puff-paste, half an inch
-in thickness; cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter two inches in
-diameter; press a small cutter one inch in diameter, on each round,
-one-fourth of an inch deep. Place them on a buttered tin, brush a
-little beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick oven. When done,
-remove the centre and a little of the inside. Scald (or, as it is
-called, blanch) three dozen oysters; drain. Put into a saucepan two
-ounces of butter, whisk it to a cream; add a teaspoonful of flour,
-stir free from lumps; add a heaping saltspoonful of salt, and a
-pepperspoonful of white pepper; whisk into it half a pint each of hot
-cream and the oyster liquor; allow it to simmer a few minutes and to
-thicken; then add the oysters and a “squeeze” of lemon-juice; when hot
-fill the shells, and serve. If nutmeg is not objected to, a little may
-be used.
-
-
-=Oysters à la Poulette.=--Blanch (scald) a dozen oysters in their own
-liquor; drain them, and add to the liquor, salt, half an ounce of
-butter, the juice of half a lemon, a gill of cream, and a teaspoonful
-of dissolved flour. Beat the yolk of one egg, and add to the sauce.
-Stir until the sauce thickens; place the oysters on a hot dish, pour
-the sauce over them, add a very little chopped parsley, and serve.
-
-
-=Pie of Oysters and Scallops.=--Take one pint of fresh scallops, and
-wash them in cold water; drain, and dry them in a napkin. Cut a few
-slices of fat bacon in strips small enough to insert the ends in a
-larding-needle; lard the scallops with them, and dredge them slightly
-with flour. Select one quart of fat oysters; line a baking-dish with
-puff-paste; add the scallops and oysters in layers; season with salt,
-pepper, and a dash of mace. Divide an ounce of butter into little
-balls, roll them in flour, and put them between the layers; add the
-oyster liquor. Cover with a top crust; bake forty minutes in a moderate
-oven.
-
-
-=Steamed Oysters.=--Wash and scrub the shells thoroughly, and rinse
-them off in cold water. Put them in a steamer, large or deep shell
-_down_. Put the steamer on top of a pot of boiling water; steam about
-six minutes, or until the shells separate. Have ready a hot dish
-containing melted butter seasoned with a dash of Worcestershire,
-lemon-juice, salt and cayenne. Remove them from the steamer with gloved
-hands, and pick out the oysters with a flat knife, saving all the juice
-possible. Dip the oysters in the butter as you open them, and the
-number one can eat is surprising.
-
-
-=To serve Steamed Oysters.=--Steam them as in the foregoing recipe. At
-each guest’s place at table have ready little saucers containing a
-quantity of the hot melted butter. Remove the flat shell, and serve the
-oyster in the lower shell; send about six oysters to each guest at a
-time.
-
-
-=Roast Oysters.=--Clean the shells thoroughly, and place them on the
-coals in an open fire-place, or remove the top of range, and put them
-on the live coals, until they snap open, which they will soon do. Care
-must be exercised not to burn fingers.
-
-At evening, young folks like the fun of roasting oysters in the furnace
-below stairs, and eating them from the shell as fast as the host can
-open them.
-
-
-=Baked Oysters.=--Clean the shells thoroughly, and fill a dripping-pan
-with them, deep shell down. Look at them after ten minutes. If the
-shells are all opened, they are cooked enough. Melted butter, nicely
-seasoned, is the only sauce to serve with them.
-
-
-
-
-CLAMS.
-
-
-=Little-Neck Clams.=--From the first of September until the first of
-May in the following year, the clam--which is richer in nutrition
-than the oyster--is as meek and as gentle as a clam can be. Yet it
-submits to all sorts of indignities from the oyster, and has never
-been known to talk back during the period mentioned. After the first
-of May, however, its manner changes, and it assumes metropolitan airs.
-It lords it over the oyster as a bantam struts around a helpless foe;
-and it plainly intimates to the oyster that moving-day was invented to
-celebrate its departure.
-
-After May 1, the clam must be recognized as the _avant-coureur_ of
-all dainty feasts. No summer dinner or supper of any pretensions
-is considered complete without the small clam. All the small clams
-in market are supposed to come from Little Neck, Long Island. Not
-one-quarter of the supply comes from this locality.
-
-
-=Soft Clams in Chafing-Dish.=--Select a dozen large Guilford clams,
-wash them thoroughly, and plunge them into boiling water for a
-moment. Drain and open them, and use the round plump part only. Put
-in a chafing-dish a pat of butter, and when quite hot add a dash of
-flour, and cayenne to suit the taste; add the clams, and when they are
-slightly cooked add a gill of light sherry. Cover the dish, and allow
-it to simmer five minutes. Have ready three slices of toast, put four
-clams upon each slice, add a little of the hot sherry, and serve.
-
-
-=Stewed Little-Neck Clams.=--Get two dozen freshly opened, _very_ small
-clams. Boil a pint of milk, a dash of white pepper, and a small pat of
-butter. Now add the clams. Let them come to a boil, and serve. Longer
-boiling will make the clams almost indigestible.
-
-
-=Soft Clams.=--Select a dozen soft-shell clams; wash them well; remove
-the shells; trim off the tough neck; place each clam on a half-shell,
-and add to each half a teaspoonful of finely-chopped bacon, a little
-cayenne, a very small bit of onion, and a pat of butter rolled in
-flour; strew over the top a little grated Parmesan cheese, and bake to
-a delicate brown. Cracker-crumbs may be used instead of the cheese if
-preferred.
-
-
-=Soft-Shell Clams, Scalloped.=--Purchase a dozen large soft clams
-in the shell, and three dozen opened clams. Ask the dealer to open
-the first dozen, care being used not to injure the shells, which are
-to be used in cooking the clams. Clean the shells well, and put two
-soft clams on each half-shell; add to each a dash of white pepper and
-half a teaspoonful of minced celery. Cut a slice of fat bacon into
-the smallest dice, add four of these to each shell, strew over the
-top a thin layer of cracker-dust, place a pat of table butter on top,
-and bake in the oven until brown. They are delightful when properly
-prepared.
-
-
-=Clam Toast.=--Chop up two dozen small clams into fine pieces; simmer
-for thirty minutes in hot water enough to cover them. Beat up the yolks
-of two eggs; add a little cayenne and a gill of warmed milk; dissolve
-half a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold milk; simmer all together;
-pour over buttered toast, and serve.
-
-
-=Clam Broth.=--Procure three dozen Little-Neck clams in the shell; wash
-them well in cold water; put them in a saucepan, cover with a quart
-of hot water; boil fifteen minutes; drain; remove the shells; chop up
-the clams, and add them to the hot broth with a pat of butter; salt
-if necessary, and add a little cayenne; boil ten minutes, pour into a
-soup-tureen, add a slice of toast, and send to table. This is the mode
-adopted when we do not have a clam-opener in the house.
-
-Raw, freshly opened clams should be chopped fine and prepared in the
-manner above described. The large clams are better for chowders than
-for stews and broth.
-
-
-=Clam Fritters.=--Chop medium fine twenty-five large quahaugs, or
-seventy-five Little Necks. To a pint of flour add the beaten yolks of
-three eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
-a dash of cayenne, and an ounce of melted butter. Mix well, and make a
-batter by adding about a gill of milk. Add the clams, and if the batter
-is too thick add a little of the clam broth. To make them light, beat
-the mixture well; drop spoonfuls in hot fat, and fry brown, as you
-would doughnuts.
-
-
-=Fried Soft Clams.--=Select half a dozen of large Guilford clams.
-Remove the shells, and trim off the dark tough parts. Cut into dice a
-quarter of a pound of salt pork, and fry it. In the pork-fat fry the
-clams, but first dredge them with flour. Serve with a slice of broiled
-or fried fat pork.
-
-
-
-
-CRABS.
-
-
-=Hard-shell Crabs.=--The common blue crab is the species of the crab
-family which we are most familiar with. We remember how rapidly they
-darted away from us when we pointed the net towards them, when on our
-summer vacation. We also have vivid recollections of their anxiety to
-shake hands with us when in captivity.
-
-Hard crabs are to be had during almost the entire season, and the
-average price asked for them is $3.00 per hundred. Those found in
-market in winter were raked out of the mud, where they had buried
-themselves until the advent of warm weather.
-
-Select a dozen hard crabs, and rinse them well in fresh water. Have
-ready a kettle two-thirds full of boiling water, slightly salted;
-plunge them into it, and boil them for about twelve minutes; drain, and
-when cool put them in the ice-box to become cold.
-
-After the theatre, return home for supper, instead of patronizing the
-restaurant, and serve the crabs with sandwiches of buttered bread. A
-light sauterne may be served with them, if not objected to.
-
-
-=Crab Patties, Cream Sauce.=--Roll out a pound of light puff-paste,
-half an inch in thickness. Cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter two
-inches in diameter. Press a small cutter one inch in diameter, on each
-round, one-fourth of an inch deep. Place them on a buttered tin, brush
-a little beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick oven. When done,
-remove the centre, and a little of the inside.
-
-Put into a saucepan half an ounce of butter, half an onion minced,
-half a pound of minced raw veal, and a small carrot shredded. Toss
-about for two or three minutes to fry, but not to color; then add
-two tablespoonfuls of flour. Mix it well with the other ingredients,
-and add three pints of hot water, a pint of boiling cream, half a
-teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Simmer one
-hour, and strain into a saucepan. Add to each pint of it half a gill
-of warm cream. Place back on range again, and simmer until reduced
-enough to coat the spoon, then strain into a crock, and whisk until
-it is cold. This is done to prevent the formation of a thick top. At
-this season of the year this is an excellent sauce to have on hand
-for patties, white fish sauces, and also for meat sauces. When wanted
-for patties, melt an ounce of butter. While whisking it, gradually
-add a pint of the sauce. Mix it with a quart of prepared crab-meat,
-obtainable at the grocer’s. When hot, fill the shells with it.
-
-
-=Soft-shell Crabs.=--When the blue crab is desirous of increasing
-his growth, he sheds his shell, and for a short period is perfectly
-helpless. The male usually retires to a secluded spot out of the reach
-of eels and other enemies, but the female soft shell is protected by a
-male companion whose shell is hard. At Sheepshead Bay these are called
-elopers or double crabs. As the tide changes, the soft shell begins to
-harden, when it is called “paper-shell,” shedder, or feeler. Before
-reaching its normal condition, the crab is called a buckler, and is
-only used as bait.
-
-
-=The Care of Soft Crabs.=--Soft crabs require delicate handling and
-much care. They deteriorate rapidly after leaving the water, and are
-often killed in transit by the sudden jarring of the train. If a little
-care is exercised, they may be kept alive from six to ten days. First
-select vigorous crabs, remove them from the crate, and give them a
-bath in water slightly salted. Clean the crate thoroughly, renew or
-wash the seaweed which accompanies them. Strew over the bottom of
-the crate a layer of the seaweed, and place the crabs in the crate
-in layers, faces upward with side spines touching each other, and
-alternated with layers of seaweed. When the crate is full, cover it
-with more seaweed, sprinkle salt water over all, and set the crate in
-a dark, cool place. Sprinkle salt water over them from day to day, and
-renew the bath and fresh sea-tangle about every other day. Treated
-this way, they will keep in the hottest weather. One of the principal
-objects in covering them with seaweed is to keep the light from them.
-Sudden flashes of lightning, if seen by them, would frighten them to
-death. Their sensitive organization cannot even stand the rumbling
-of thunder, and they should be stored away where they cannot hear it
-distinctly. The only care required in cleaning them for the table is to
-remove the feathery gill-like formations under the side spines, and the
-sand-pouch. Soft crabs are too delicate morsels to cover with batter.
-
-
-=Crabs, Soft-shell.=--These should be cooked as soon as possible after
-being caught, as their flavor rapidly deteriorates after being exposed
-to the air. Select crabs as lively as possible; remove the feathery
-substance under the pointed sides of the shells; rinse them in cold
-water; drain; season with salt and pepper; dredge them in flour, and
-fry in hot fat.
-
-Many serve them rolled in eggs and cracker-dust; but thus they are not
-as good.
-
-
-=Crab Croquettes.=--Take one pound of crab-meat; gently press out
-the juice, and put it in a bowl with a tablespoonful of fine crumbs,
-half a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, a dash of
-anchovy essence, the yolks of two eggs, and a very little cold water.
-If the eggs are not enough to make it the proper consistency, bind the
-ingredients together, and place on ice until wanted; then work into
-corks or cone-shaped forms, dip them in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and
-fry in hot fat.
-
-
-=Crab Patties, à la Bechamel.=--Prepare the shells the same as for
-oyster patties (which see). Put into a saucepan half an ounce of
-butter, half a medium-sized onion minced, half a pound of minced raw
-veal, one small carrot shredded; toss about for two minutes to fry,
-but not to color; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir it about with
-the vegetables; then add three pints of hot water, or if convenient
-use hot soup-stock instead; add a pint of boiling cream. Season with
-half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Simmer
-one hour, and strain into a saucepan. Add to each pint of sauce half
-a wineglassful of cream. Simmer until reduced enough to coat a spoon;
-strain it again into a crock, and whisk it until cold, to prevent a
-thick top from forming. When wanted for patties, or any thing else,
-boil one pint of it with an ounce of butter, whisking it thoroughly.
-Prepare a quart of solid crab-meat, either picked from the shells or
-purchased already prepared; add it to a pint of the sauce; strew in a
-few shredded mushrooms: fill the crab-shells with this, and serve. On
-fast-days, omit veal and stock from meats, and use milk instead.
-
-[This very excellent sauce was named after the Marquis de Bechamel, a
-worthless court-lounger and steward under Louis XIV. Why his unsavory
-memory has been perpetuated by a gastronomic monument of worth, is
-one of those inexplicable historical facts that students of the art
-of cookery are continually stumbling upon. The close observer will
-not fail, however, to discover that nearly all dishes named after old
-French celebrities were stolen bodily from old Venetian and Provençal
-books of cookery, and were re-baptized after some of the most notorious
-profligates of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Many of these
-old cook-books, like “Opusculum de Obsoniis de Honesta Voluptate,” a
-volume printed at Venice, 1475 (the first cookery-book published), and
-others, contain recipes almost identical with French cookery of the
-past few centuries.]
-
-
-=Crabs, à l’Américaine.=--Pick out the meat from the shells of four
-dozen boiled hard-shell crabs; squeeze out the water gently; put the
-meat in a bowl, and add the yolks of two raw eggs, salt, cayenne, and
-a very little chopped parsley, and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs;
-roll the mixture into small balls or cakes; dip in egg batter, roll in
-cracker-crumbs, and fry to a delicate brown. They may be served plain
-or with tomato sauce.
-
-
-=Crabs, Deviled.=--Pick out the meat of four dozen boiled hard-shell
-crabs, put it into a bowl, and add a half-pint of mayonnaise. Mix
-carefully with your hand; wash a dozen of the shells, put a little of
-the mixture into each; grate a loaf of dry bread, season a pint of it
-with salt and pepper, sprinkle it over the crabs evenly; make twelve
-little balls of butter about the size of hickory-nuts; put one on top
-of each crab, and bake in a quick oven.
-
-
-
-
-SCALLOPS.
-
-
-The scallop-shell is familiar to even the children who have visited the
-seashore, and the novice wonders why so small a tidbit should require
-so large a shell. The edible part of the scallop is only the powerful
-central muscle by which the mollusk opens and closes its shell. The
-medium-sized scallops are the best. The very large and very white
-variety are more than likely to have been inflated and bleached by the
-aid of saleratus.
-
-Scallop-shells were extensively used in ancient cookery, and gave to
-various dishes the prefix “scalloped.”
-
-
-=Scallop Broth.=--The peculiar flavor of scallops is quite attractive
-to the convalescent, and a broth made from them is nourishing; but
-care should be exercised in selecting the shell-fish. To improve their
-appearance, shippers add quantities of saleratus to the scallops, which
-has the effect of bleaching them, and increasing their size: this
-custom may please the dealers, but not consumers. Select medium-sized
-scallops of a natural creamy color, wash them, and cut them into small
-pieces. To half a pint of these, add half a pint of warm water and half
-a pint of milk, a “pea” of butter, and a pinch of salt; simmer for
-twenty minutes; strain and serve.
-
-A pint of milk and no water may be used if the patient desires it.
-
-
-=Small Patties of Scallops.=--Wash a pint of scallops, drain, cut
-them up, and scald them; then put them in just milk enough to prevent
-burning. Add salt and white pepper, simmer until quite tender, and
-thicken with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in cold water. Pour
-this mixture in small patty-shells (see recipe for oyster patties), and
-serve after the soup and before the fish, or as an entrée.
-
-
-=Fried Scallops.=--Rinse a pint of scallops in cold water slightly
-salted, then dry them in a napkin, and dredge them slightly with flour.
-Fry them in pork-fat. Egg batter and crumbs are not recommended.
-
-
-=Scallops en Brochette.=--Drain twenty-four medium-sized scallops in a
-napkin. Parboil them a moment. When cool arrange them on four skewers,
-six on each, alternated with thin slices of bacon the size of the
-scallops in width. Brush over the scallops a little melted butter, and
-broil. When done, serve with tufts of watercresses and lemon.
-
-
-=Stewed Scallops.=--Scald fifteen scallops, and put them into a stewpan
-with half a pint of boiling milk, a dash of cayenne, and a saltspoonful
-of salt. Just before serving, add very little table butter.
-
-
-
-
-MUSSELS.
-
-
-=The Mussel= is called the poor man’s oyster; but why the poor should
-have a monopoly of this very useful shellfish, the writer is at a
-loss to comprehend. During warm weather the spiced mussel is a treat:
-it may have the honor of ushering in a family dinner instead of the
-clam, and at collations and suppers it should be welcome. As they may
-be purchased at from eighteen to twenty-five cents per quart, it is a
-waste of time to pickle them at home, unless living at the seashore.
-
-
-
-
-THE LOBSTER.
-
-
-=Remarks on the Lobster.=--It takes a lobster about five years to
-arrive at maturity, or over ten inches in length. The spawning season
-depends upon the temperature of the water. Along the Sound, the season
-begins in June, and ends in September.
-
-
-=The Season for Lobster.=--Lobsters are at their best before the
-spawning season. They are then filled with roe, or coral as the red
-spawn is called by some. This is a great delicacy, and is highly
-esteemed by epicures. After the spawning season, which is late in the
-summer, they are in very poor condition, and should not be offered for
-sale until cool weather.
-
-The green part in the body of the lobster is called the tom-alley by
-New-England folks. It is excellent eating.
-
-The external spawn adhering to the tail of the female lobster, when
-not highly developed, is edible, and is used in garnishing and making
-lobster butter, paste, and cardinal-fish sauces.
-
-It is a curious fact, that the lobster changes or re-makes a shell
-from eight to ten times the first year, five to seven the second,
-three to four the third, and from two to three the fourth year. So
-says Professor G. O. Sars of Norway, about the European lobster, whose
-habits agree more or less closely with those of the American lobster.
-
-
-=Soft-shell Lobster not edible.=--After the fifth year the change of
-shell is only annual. A soft-shell or shedder lobster, unlike the
-soft-shell crab, is not edible, and if eaten is likely to produce
-ill effects. In a soft condition the lobster itself is sick, and is
-therefore unfit for food.
-
-
-=Selecting Lobsters.=--Always select a firm shell, of a deep dark-green
-color. Light-colored, thin-shelled lobsters are likely to be lean and
-poor. When plunged into the boiling water, the joints contract, and
-the tail draws under, provided the lobster was alive at the time of
-immersion. If dead when boiled, the tendons are relaxed, the claws
-hang loosely, the tail will not possess a spring-like tenacity when
-straightened out. Select the former, and reject the latter.
-
-
-=Value of the Lobster as Food.=--According to Professor Atwater of
-Middletown, Conn., the nutritive value of the flesh of the lobster,
-compared with beef as a standard and reckoned at 100, is 61 to 97.
-Forty per cent of the lobster is edible, the remainder is shell and
-waste.
-
-
-Buckland says, “That phosphorus exists in large quantities, may be
-easily proved. A lobster in hot weather, when it ceases to be fresh,
-assumes a highly phosphorescent appearance when seen in the dark,
-equal if not superior to that of a glow-worm or luminous centipede.
-This light increases by friction.... The presence of phosphorus in the
-lobster is of great importance to the consumers of these sea luxuries.
-There is no substance which conveys phosphorus so readily into the
-human system in an agreeable form, and which the system so readily and
-quickly assimilates, as the flesh of crabs and lobsters.”
-
-
-=Broiled Lobster.=--Select alive and active lobster not less than ten
-and a half inches long. (If below this measurement, the dealer should
-be arrested for breaking the law which protects the lobster.) Split it
-in two lengthwise, which instantly kills it. Remove the entrail through
-the fleshy part of the tail, and the crop or stomach near the head.
-This done, there are two ways of preparing it for table. One is as
-follows:--
-
-Remove the flesh from the tail, and brush over it a little melted
-butter or olive-oil; broil it gently, but not too well done. Heat the
-shell, put the meat back in the shell again, add more butter, salt,
-pepper, and serve on hot plates. The body parts may be boiled, and
-furnish dainty pickings for a late meal.
-
-The other way is that which is generally adopted by restaurants. Brush
-a little butter over the entire half of the green lobster; broil the
-shell side thoroughly first, then turn, and broil the other. Serve with
-maitre-d’hôtel sauce.
-
-A lobster that has once been boiled and then broiled is so thoroughly
-over-cooked as to be very indigestible.
-
-
-=Lobster Croquettes, with Pease.=--Boil one-half pint of milk, thicken
-it with a tablespoonful of flour, and let it become cold. Mince the
-meat of a one-pound can of lobster, or one pound of fresh lobster;
-when very fine, add a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of
-white pepper. Moisten the lobster mince with the thickened milk, and
-work the whole to a paste; add very little bread-crumb if too thin; let
-it become amalgamated over the range, and place in the ice-box until
-wanted; then shape it into neat rolls or cones; dip them in egg and
-crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat. Arrange the forms neatly on a
-dish, put round them a border of pease, and serve.
-
-
-=Lobsters en Brochette.=--Instead of boiling the lobster-tails, cut
-them in pieces, and arrange these on small skewers, alternated with
-small pieces of bacon; brush melted butter over them, and either broil
-or bake them; serve with sauce tartare (which see on p. 84).
-
-
-=Deviled Lobster.=--Take two live lobsters, remove the tails, split
-them in two, and make several incisions in them crosswise. Mix together
-half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful each of dry mustard and
-curry, and half a saltspoonful of white pepper, add a tablespoonful
-of oil; mix, spread it over the lobsters, and broil them. When done,
-return to the shells, which should have been kept hot for the purpose;
-pour a little melted butter over them, and serve.
-
-
-=Stewed Lobster, à la Créole.=--Remove the tail part of the meat
-from three green lobsters; split them in two lengthwise; remove the
-thread-like intestine. Melt an ounce of butter in a deep frying-pan;
-add the lobster; toss it for a few minutes in the butter; add salt and
-pepper and half a pint of hot water; cover, and simmer three-quarters
-of an hour; drain, and reduce the water one-half by rapid boiling. Put
-in a saucepan half an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of minced
-onion; fry brown, and add three peeled and sliced tomatoes, one sweet
-pepper, four okra pods cut small, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Allow
-these to cook fifteen minutes, add the broth, and simmer until reduced
-to a pulp; rub through a sieve; put this _puree_ on a hot dish, place
-the lobster on top, add a little lemon-juice, and serve.
-
-
-=Curry of Lobster.=--Remove the meat from two boiled lobsters, cut it
-into neat pieces; take all green fat and coral, and set them aside;
-mix the green fat with a heaping spoonful of curry-powder. Squeeze
-out the juice of three limes, and add to it half a teaspoonful of
-powdered sugar. Put into a frying-pan an ounce of butter; when creamed
-add a teaspoonful of minced onion browned a little; now add the mixed
-curry-powder; dissolve a teaspoonful of rice-flour in cold water, add
-this to a pint of hot water or soup-stock, simmer until thick; now add
-the lobster, and simmer twenty minutes longer. Wash and dry the coral,
-separate it. Prepare a border of rice on a dish, and over it sprinkle
-the coral and eggs (if any); pour the curry in the centre, and serve.
-
-
-=Lobster Salad.=--Take two live hen (female) lobsters; boil them
-thirty minutes; drain. When cold, break them apart; crack the claws,
-and if the tail-fins are covered with eggs remove them carefully.
-Take out the sand-pouch found near the head; split the fleshy part
-of the tail in two lengthwise, remove the small long entrail found
-therein. Adhering to the body-shell may be found a layer of creamy fat;
-save this, and also the green fat in the body of the lobster (called
-tom-alley by New-Englanders), and the coral. If celery is used, tear
-the lobster into shreds with forks; if lettuce, cut the lobster into
-half-inch pieces. Place the salad herb in a bowl, add the lobster and
-the fat, and pour over it a rich mayonnaise; garnish with the claws
-and heads, tufts of green, hard-boiled eggs, etc. The lobster eggs may
-be separated, and sprinkled over the mayonnaise. The coral is used for
-coloring mayonnaise, and also butter, which is then used in decorating
-salmon and other dark fish used in salads.
-
-
-
-
-THE OYSTER CRAB.
-
-
-The little crab found in the oyster is not, as commonly supposed by
-two-thirds of the oyster-eating community to be, the young of the
-blue crab; but it is a distinct species. It is a messmate of and
-caterer to the wants of the oyster, being therefore a benefit instead
-of a detriment to the latter. In return for the oyster’s kindness in
-protecting it against its enemies, the little crab catches and crushes
-food which in its entire state could not be taken by the oyster. A
-singular thing in connection with them is, that all found inside of
-the oyster are females. The male of the same variety is found in the
-neighborhood, but its shell is firm.
-
-Oyster-crabs are found at the grocer’s, put up in half-pint bottles,
-which retail from 60 to 75 cents each. At the markets they are sold at
-$2.50 per quart.
-
-
-=To Serve Oyster Crabs.=--Put on a small saucer a crisp but dry leaf of
-lettuce, and put in the centre of each leaf a scant tablespoonful of
-the oyster crabs. Add a scant teaspoonful of mayonnaise to each, and
-serve as a whet before a ladies’ collation, or at an afternoon luncheon.
-
-
-=Oyster-Crab Omelet.=--This is a most tempting dish. Roll an ounce of
-butter into little balls, dredge these with flour, put them in a pan,
-and when they begin to melt whisk them; do not let it brown; add a gill
-of hot water, and simmer until thick; now add half a pint of oyster
-crabs, salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat up four eggs thoroughly, and
-make them into an omelet; just before folding, add the crabs, and serve.
-
-
-=Oyster-Crab Sauce.=--Add a tablespoonful of oyster-crabs to half a
-pint of drawn butter, sauce hollandaise, or in fact any white or cream
-fish-sauce, and serve with boiled fish.
-
-
-ACKNOWLEDGMENT.
-
-The writer is deeply indebted to Prof. George Brown Goode’s compilation
-and reports of the “Fishery Industries of the United States,” for much
-of the natural history of fish and shell embodied in this work.
-
-
-
-
-SHRIMPS.
-
-
-The common shrimp, which is caught in immense quantities along our
-coast all summer, and used for bait, is a dainty which summer residents
-should not neglect. When a shrimp salad is wanted, however, the servant
-is sent to the nearest grocer for a can of Southern shrimp, and the
-delicious morsel at their very door is used to feed the fishes. The
-trouble seems to be, that servants dislike the trouble of picking them
-out of their transparent shells.
-
-Summer hotels would buy the native shrimp if fishermen would take the
-trouble of offering them. No more appetizing or appropriate garnish for
-lobster salads and for portions of boiled fish can be imagined than
-the little home shrimp properly boiled. A plunge into the hot water is
-about all the cooking they need.
-
-
-=Market Price of Shrimps.=--Cooked and shelled shrimps are to be had
-in our markets during warm weather, for from thirty to fifty cents per
-quart. Canned shrimps retail for from thirty to forty cents per can,
-and $3.50 per dozen. Rinse them in fresh water before using them.
-
-
-=Shrimp Omelet.=--Toss half a pint of canned or fresh shrimps in a
-little hot butter for a moment; add a little salt and pepper and a
-tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Prepare the omelet, and just before
-folding add the shrimps, and serve.
-
-
-=Shrimp Sauce.=--Cut up the shrimps into halves, add them to a creamy
-fish sauce of any kind; mix and serve.
-
-
-
-
-PRAWNS.
-
-
-Scientifically there is a difference between the prawn and the shrimp;
-but it need not be considered by the housewife, except that the prawn,
-that comes to this market from the South already cooked and shelled, is
-larger than the shrimp, and a little stronger flavored.
-
-The shrimps and prawns are found in salt and brackish water, while the
-crayfish are inhabitants of fresh water.
-
-
-=Curry of Prawns.=--Prawns are at their best served as a curry. Boil
-two quarts of live prawns thirty minutes, drain when slightly cooled,
-break away the shells, and set them aside. Put two ounces of butter
-in a frying-pan; when very hot add a clove of garlic and one sliced
-apple; brown slightly, remove the garlic, and add a dessertspoonful of
-curry-powder mixed with a gill of water; stir, and add half a pint of
-soup-stock and half a teaspoonful of flour; now add the prawns, and the
-juice of half a lemon in which a lump of sugar has been dissolved. Pour
-out on a hot dish, and send to table with rice croquettes.
-
-
-=Prawns, Deviled, en Coquille.=--Simmer a quart of prawns fifteen
-minutes in water flavored with a little sharp vinegar; drain, and cut
-them very fine. Add two ounces of butter, a gill of water, salt and
-pepper, the yolks of two eggs, and bread-crumbs to absorb the moisture.
-Mix to a paste. Partly fill the shells, cover with crumbs, add a small
-pat of butter to each, and bake to a delicate brown.
-
-
-=Prawns, Sauté, à la Marengo.=--Wash one pint of “shelled” prawns,
-simmer them twenty minutes, drain, and toss them a moment in a little
-hot olive-oil; remove them, add a sprig of parsley, half a dozen button
-mushrooms, a gill of hot water, salt and pepper, and thicken with a
-little flour. Put the prawns on a dish, pour the sauce over them,
-garnish with fried eggs and slices of tomatoes fried.
-
-
-=Prawn Salad.=--Take one quart of prawns and one quart and a pint of
-cut celery; put the celery in a bowl; add the prawns; garnish neatly,
-and serve with a mayonnaise.
-
-
-
-
-CRAYFISH.
-
-
-The crayfish are inhabitants of fresh-water streams; and they bear a
-striking resemblance to the lobster in appearance, spawning habits,
-shedding their shell, etc. Their season begins early in the spring, and
-lasts until cold weather. During a bountiful supply of these delicious
-shell-fish, large quantities are packed away in ice-houses for winter
-use, when there is a big demand for them from caterers who use them
-as garnishment, and for salads and sauces. They cost from three to
-four dollars per hundred in the New-York markets. Those that come from
-Milwaukee are highly esteemed; and, as they are already cooked, they
-may be used at luncheon, and on fast-days as salads. A crayfish salad
-is an enjoyable dish.
-
-
-=Crayfish Omelet.=--Rinse half a pint of crayfish tails in salted
-water, and drain them; then split each tail in two lengthwise, and
-remove the thread-like intestine found therein. Toss them about a
-moment in a little butter and tablespoonful of broth or gravy; season
-with a dash of cayenne. Make a four-egg omelet, and just before folding
-add the crayfish.
-
-
-
-
-SALMON.
-
-
-=Salmon Steak.=--Put into fast boiling water, salted, a slice of fresh
-salmon, and boil for five minutes quite rapidly; then set on back of
-the range where it will simmer for fifteen minutes longer. Drain, and
-place it on a napkin surrounded with a border of parsley. On the two
-ends of the platter place slices of lemon. Serve with a sauce in a
-sauce-boat. Drawn butter with a few prawns or shrimps cut up in it is a
-nice sauce for salmon.
-
-
-=Canned Salmon.=--The canning of salmon at the source of supply has
-been of lasting benefit to mankind, for we are now able to procure
-a pound of salmon in any quarter of the globe for a reasonable sum.
-Canned salmon has one advantage over the fresh fish: it does not
-deteriorate, and lose its flavor. Those who have tried it say they
-do not get surfeited with canned salmon, although many of the same
-individuals dislike the fresh salmon owing to its richness, and on this
-account rarely eat it.
-
-
-=Salmon Patties.=--This is a very nice way of serving salmon at
-luncheon. Open a pound can of salmon, drain, add to the small amount of
-salmon liquid sufficient water to make a gill, season it with salt and
-pepper, and, if on hand, add a little anchovy paste. Beat up the yolks
-of two eggs with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little cold
-water or milk: add the gill of water, place it on the range to become
-hot and thick, whisking it meanwhile; break the salmon into pieces,
-and add to the sauce. When quite hot, fill the patty shells with it,
-and serve. A very rich sauce may be made by the addition of butter and
-cream.
-
-The patty shells are made as follows: Roll out some very light
-puff-paste, half an inch thick; stamp it in rounds with a three-inch
-cutter, press a small cutter in the middle of each round to the depth
-of quarter of an inch; put the rounds on a buttered tin, brush a little
-beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick oven. When done, remove the
-centre, scoop out a little of the inside, and the shells are ready for
-the mixture.
-
-
-=Salmon Surprise.=--Boil two quarts of potatoes with their jackets on.
-When done, peel and mash them with butter and warm milk. Arrange a
-border of potatoes on a flat, oval dish. In the centre of this put a
-pound of canned or cold salmon separated into neat-sized pieces, salt,
-pepper, a very little mace, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; cover
-the salmon with a layer of raw oysters; add a little oyster-liquor,
-cover the oysters with a thin smooth layer of mashed potato, and brush
-the beaten yolk of egg over all. Then make a small hole in the centre,
-and place the dish in an oven hot enough to brown the outside quickly.
-
-
-=Salmon à la Créole.=--Scald and put three large tomatoes to simmer
-in very little water, until tender: chop up very fine a sweet Spanish
-pepper and quarter of an onion; fry these in a little bacon fat; add
-the tomato, salt, and little white pepper. Simmer until reduced to a
-pulp. Open a pound can of salmon; set the can in a saucepan half full
-of hot water, turn the salmon out on a dish. When it is quite hot, pour
-the pulp over it, and serve. Canned tomatoes may be used instead of
-fresh tomatoes.
-
-
-=Salmon Pie.=--Cut up four boiled potatoes into neat pieces; cut half
-a pound of boiled salt pork into dice; divide a pound of canned salmon
-into symmetrical pieces; roll out quarter of a pound of puff-paste, cut
-it into squares, and roll each of these into a little ball. Arrange
-these ingredients alternately in a deep yellow dish, season with salt
-and pepper, add hot water or gravy to prevent burning, cover the top
-with paste, make a hole in the centre, and bake in a moderate oven.
-
-
-=Salmon in Jelly.=--Take one gallon of clear soup, and boil it down to
-a quart. Soak a teaspoonful of gelatine in cold water, and add to the
-reduced soup to make sure that it will be stiff when cold.
-
-Take a two-quart tin mould, set it on ice, and pour enough of the
-liquid in it to cover the bottom. Let this become firm. Cut into
-slices, and then into diamonds, boiled beets, white turnips, and cold
-boiled tongue; dip each into the liquid, and place them in the mould
-in a very neat and artistic manner; when they become firm, spread over
-them a layer an inch thick, of cream-mashed potato; now add a pound of
-canned salmon, and pour round the edges and on top the remainder of the
-reduced soup, and set the mould in a very cold place to become firm.
-When wanted, dip the mould into hot water quickly, and turn it out.
-This is an excellent dish for collations, wedding breakfasts, etc. The
-potato must be made rich with butter and milk, and beaten to a light
-consistency before being placed in the mould. Any other kind of cold
-fish will answer quite as well as salmon for this and other dishes
-herein mentioned.
-
-
-=Salmon Omelet.=--Separate half a pound of canned salmon into flakes,
-season with salt and pepper, a little lemon-juice, and add a little of
-the liquid; heat it a little, whip up the eggs for an omelet, prepare
-it as usual, and just before completing the fold add the salmon; then
-turn it out on a hot dish.
-
-
-=Salmon, German Style.=--Boil two quarts of sauerkraut; drain it, and
-pile it on a hot dish; have ready a pound of canned salmon hot; make a
-hole in the centre of the kraut, insert the fish, simmer and season the
-salmon liquid, pour it over the dish, and serve.
-
-
-=Salmon à l’Italienne.=--Boil half a pound of macaroni in water
-slightly salted; drain. Heat a can of salmon in hot water; turn it out
-on a dish; arrange the macaroni round it; pour over the macaroni the
-contents of a pound can of tomato-pulp (hot), sprinkle over this a
-little grated Parmesan cheese, and serve.
-
-
-=Salmon à la Hollandaise.=--Heat a pound of canned salmon in the
-original can; turn it out on a hot dish, garnish neatly, and pour over
-it the following sauce: Cream two ounces of butter, whisk into it the
-yolks of two beaten eggs, add a little salt and white pepper, and half
-a teaspoonful of strong vinegar; put the pan in a larger one containing
-hot water, whisk it until it thickens, and just before serving add a
-little lemon-juice.
-
-
-=Salmon, Hunter’s Style.=--One of the best dishes I have ever eaten
-while hunting was prepared as follows: Take three one-pound cans of
-salmon (save the liquid), and divide into neat pieces; make a dough
-as for milk biscuits: divide half of it into little balls; take one
-box of sardines; put a layer of sliced bacon in the bottom of a gallon
-crock; add a layer of salmon, a few dough balls, two sardines, salt,
-cayenne. Continue arranging in alternate layers until the ingredients
-are all used; add a wineglassful of vinegar to the salmon liquid, and
-if there is not enough add a little water; cover the top with the
-remainder of the dough, and tie one or two thicknesses of white cloth
-over all. Dig a hole deep enough to be lined with mud or stones and to
-receive the crock; build a fire in and over it (the smoke will keep off
-the mosquitoes). When reduced to coals, scoop out the ashes and coals
-from the hole, cover the cloth with mud, set the crock in the hole,
-and cover up with the hot ashes; let it remain three hours, and a more
-satisfactory dish cannot be imagined.
-
-
-=Bouillabaisse.=--This celebrated dish was immortalized by Thackeray.
-Put into a frying-pan a gill of olive-oil, a clove of garlic minced,
-a tablespoonful of chopped onion, two cloves, six peppercorns; when
-slightly brown, add one pound of canned salmon and the salmon liquid in
-the can; add a little salt, a bit of bay leaf, three slices of lemon,
-a pint of tomato pulp, a pinch of curry-powder or saffron, a gill of
-Rhine wine, with water enough to cover the fish: simmer twenty minutes.
-Line a deep dish with toast, remove from the pan all seasoning in
-sight, pour the contents of the pan on the toast, and serve.
-
-
-
-
-CODFISH.
-
-
-=Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce.=--The only thing that can be urged
-against this most excellent fish is its homely name. Were it not so
-cheap, its good qualities would rapidly find favor at all gastronomic
-entertainments where palate-pleasing dishes are appreciated. Put the
-fish into boiling water, slightly salted; add a few whole cloves and
-peppers, and a bit of lemon-peel; pull gently on the fins, and when
-they come out easily the fish is done. Arrange neatly on a folded
-napkin, garnish, and serve with oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every
-pound of fish, and scald them in a half-pint of hot oyster liquor; take
-out the oysters, and add to the liquor, salt, pepper, a bit of mace,
-and an ounce of butter; whip into it a gill of milk, containing half of
-a teaspoonful of flour. Simmer a moment; add the oysters, and send to
-table in a sauce-boat.
-
-A four-pound fish should cook in about forty minutes.
-
-
-=Codfish Tongues.=--Wash four codfish tongues thoroughly in cold water;
-put them on the range in hot water, slightly salted, and boil thirty
-minutes; drain; arrange neatly on a folded napkin placed upon a hot
-dish; garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, and send to table with
-cream sauce.
-
-
-=Codfish Steak.=--Select a medium-sized fresh codfish, cut it in steaks
-crosswise of the fish about an inch and a half thick; sprinkle a little
-salt over them, and let them stand two hours. Cut into dice a pound of
-salt fat pork, fry out all the fat from them, and remove the crisp bits
-of pork; put the codfish steaks in a pan of corn-meal, dredge them with
-it, and, when the pork-fat is smoking hot, fry the steaks in it to a
-dark brown color on both sides. Squeeze over them a little lemon-juice,
-add a dash of freshly ground pepper, and serve with hot, old-fashioned,
-well buttered johnny-cake.
-
-
-=New-England Codfish Balls.=--Shred the codfish the night before, and
-soak it over night; drain quite dry on towel next day. Mash fine one
-pound of hot boiled potatoes. Take an equal amount of codfish, and
-divide it very fine. Mix both together, and add the beaten yolks of two
-eggs, two ounces of melted butter, and a saltspoonful of white pepper.
-Now beat the mixture until it is very light, for upon this process
-depends the success or failure of the dish. In shaping them together,
-do not press them any more than is absolutely necessary. Most cooks
-press them into cakes so hard that it is next to an impossibility to
-eat them. Dredge them lightly with a little flour, and fry them like
-doughnuts in smoking hot fat. When properly prepared and cooked they
-should fairly melt in the mouth, which they will do if thoroughly
-beaten and lightly handled.
-
-
-=Baked Cod.=--When purchasing a four-pound cod, ask your fish-dealer
-to send you three “codfish-heads;” and as soon as the basket comes
-into the house, rub a little salt on the fish, chop the heads into six
-pieces each, and sprinkle a little salt over them. Place them in the
-centre of the baking-pan (to be used as supports for the fish), with a
-gill of water. Set the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod.
-
-Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of bread to fill the fish;
-drain off the water, and pound the bread to a paste; mix with it two
-tablepoonsfuls of melted butter, two raw eggs, a tablespoonful of
-Worcestershire sauce, with salt and pepper to taste. Put this stuffing
-inside the fish, and sew it up; place the cod in the pan with two or
-three pieces of butter on the upper side of the fish, and baste it
-frequently; when it is cooked, lay the fish on a hot platter, and
-garnish with fried oysters if convenient. Add a tablespoonful of brown
-flour to the pan, a wineglass of claret; mix, and strain the gravy into
-a sauce-boat. Time to cook, one hour.
-
-
-=Salt Codfish with Cream.=--Soak one pound and a half of salt codfish
-over night. Next morning set the fish to simmer for about two hours;
-drain off the water, and strip the fish into shreds; place it in
-a saucepan with a quart of milk and two ounces of butter; mix a
-tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and add to
-the fish. Let the whole come to a boil; remove the dish from the fire,
-beat up one egg to a froth, add it to the fish, stir, and serve.
-
-
-=Scrod.=--Small codfish no larger than our tomcod are called scrod in
-Eastern Massachusetts. After they have been corned over night, they are
-broiled and fried.
-
-
-
-
-BROOK TROUT.
-
-
-Cultivated trout may be purchased at from sixty to seventy-five cents
-per pound, and wild trout from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per
-pound, after April first. There are many house-keepers who will not
-purchase the latter, thinking that as they are cheaper, they cannot be
-so good as the more expensive trout. Cultivated trout are only trout
-in name and outside appearance, and no more compare in flavor with the
-wild trout than chalk does with cheese. They are fattened (not allowed
-to feed naturally) on cheap animal food that destroys all trout flavor;
-and they live in artificial streams or ponds, acquiring a peculiar
-swampy flavor which is decidedly objectionable.
-
-The wild trout lives in clear running streams, fed from never-ending
-springs; here he finds a beautiful supply of food furnished by nature’s
-generous hand, instead of the refuse of the butcher furnished to his
-more aristocratic brother. Besides being superior in every way, the
-wild trout is always cheaper.
-
-Shippers of trout often pack their speckled beauties in moss, which
-injures their flavor materially; and the housekeeper is obliged to let
-them stand in cold water, slightly salted, to extract the flavor of the
-moss. This is a good plan to follow, by the way, when the trout are
-frozen, as nearly all wild trout are in the early spring.
-
-
-=Brook Trout, Sportsman Style.=--Clean and rinse a quarter-of-a-pound
-trout in cold spring water; dry it in a towel. Cut half a pound of salt
-pork into small pieces; put these into a thoroughly clean frying-pan;
-fry out the clear fat, and remove the small pieces of pork. Rub a
-little fine table-salt in the inside of the fish, and when the pork-fat
-is smoking hot, add the fish to it; turn it three times before it is
-done. When nicely browned, serve it on a hot dish, and send it to the
-table without adding condiments of any kind. Should you be able to
-procure fresh butter, a little may be put on the fish before it is
-served, but it must be of the very best quality.
-
-
-=Broiled Trout.=--The foregoing is a recipe for cooking trout
-immediately after catching them. After they are brought to our city
-markets from distant mountain streams, however, they are most toothsome
-when broiled over a declining fire, and require a seasoning of salt,
-pepper, and a little lemon-juice mixed with the sweetest of sweet
-butter. Serve with hot plates.
-
-
-=Brook Trout, Baked.=--Trout weighing a pound or over are best
-when served baked, though many sportsmen will not listen to this
-proposition. The outside of a large trout is almost ruined in broiling
-before the centre of the fish is cooked. Do not split the fish down the
-back. Take half a pint of fine grated bread-crumbs, and soak them in
-a little milk; squeeze out the milk; add two ounces of table butter,
-a saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, the
-juice of a quarter of a lemon, and the slightest sprig of thyme; add
-the yolk of one raw egg; mix; open the trout just enough to clean it
-properly; remove the gills (leave the heads on), fill the cavity with
-the stuffing, and sew it up carefully. Put the fish in a tin, on top
-of it place small bits of butter previously rolled in flour, place it
-in a good oven, and bake with the back toward the hottest part of the
-oven. The length of time it will take to cook properly is from twenty
-to thirty minutes, very often a little longer, for much depends on the
-temperature of the oven.
-
-
-=Brook Trout, Boiled.=--To boil trout seems an outrage; but when
-one receives a large quantity of them, and there is danger of their
-spoiling if not immediately used, put four small trout properly cleaned
-into a saucepan, cover them with claret, add a slice of lemon, two
-cloves, four whole peppers, the least bit of mace, and a heaping
-saltspoonful of salt. Simmer slowly three-quarters of an hour; remove
-the saucepan from the range, and when cold take out the fish, put them
-in a dish, and pour the boiled wine over them. Serve at luncheon or
-collations.
-
-The head, tail, and fins of trout should not be removed before cooking.
-
-
-
-
-MISCELLANEOUS.
-
-
-=Catfish, Fried.=--Catfish and waffles is a combination dear to the
-hearts of Philadelphians, and the road-houses near that city are
-celebrated for cooking them. Select the fish already cleaned, as it
-is a troublesome job to clean them, and pick out the white instead of
-the red catfish; rub a little salt along the backbone on the inside,
-and let the fish stand over night. Next day dredge them with corn-meal
-or flour, and fry in a little fat; sprinkle salt and pepper over them
-before serving.
-
-
-=The Tenderloin Trout.=--Large catfish are caught in Southern rivers;
-and while they are fair eating, they are not popular with the whites in
-the vicinity of New Orleans. The restaurant people, however, cut the
-fish into pieces an inch square and about four inches long; these are
-dipped in egg, rolled in crumbs, and fried and served as tenderloin
-trout.
-
-
-=Fricasseed Eels.=--Cut up three pounds of eels into pieces of three
-inches in length; put them into a stewpan, and cover them with Rhine
-wine (or two-thirds water and one-third vinegar); add fifteen oysters,
-two pieces of lemon, a bouquet of herbs, one onion quartered, six
-cloves, three stalks celery, a pinch of cayenne, pepper and salt to
-taste. Stew the eels one hour; remove them from the dish; strain the
-liquor. Put it back into the stewpan with a gill of cream and an ounce
-of butter rolled in flour; simmer gently a few minutes, pour over the
-fish, and serve.
-
-
-=Eel Patties.=--Take three medium-sized eels, and cut them up into
-inch pieces. Put them in a stewpan, add salt, and cover them with cold
-water. When the water comes to a boil, take them off the fire, wash
-them in cold water, scrape off any fat that may adhere, return them to
-the stewpan with just enough hot water to cover them, and add a blade
-of mace, a bay leaf, a few whole peppers, a few sprigs of parsley, and
-one lemon cut into slices. Stew gently until the fish will separate
-from the bone; remove the fish from the broth, pick it into small
-pieces, and set them aside; reduce the broth a little, strain, and
-thicken with flour and butter. Return the fish to the broth, simmer a
-moment, fill your patties, and serve; make patty-shells as directed for
-oyster patties.
-
-
-=Stewed Eels, Hoboken Turtle Club Style.=--Cut into three-inch pieces
-two pounds of medium-sized cleaned eels. Rub the inside of each piece
-with salt. Let stand half an hour, then parboil them. Boil an onion in
-a quart of milk, and remove the onion. Drain the eels from the water,
-and add them to the milk. Season with half a teaspoonful of chopped
-parsley, salt and pepper, and the slightest suspicion of mace. Simmer
-until the flesh falls from the bones.
-
-Fried eels should be slightly salted before cooking them. Do not cover
-them with batter, but dredge them with just flour enough to absorb all
-moisture, then cover them with boiling fat, as for doughnut cooking.
-Many New England families use corn-meal to dredge them with instead of
-flour.
-
-Eels _en matelotte_, or sailor fashion, are appreciated by many. Cut
-them into three-inch pieces, and salt them. Fry an onion brown in a
-little dripping; add half a pint of broth to the brown onion, part
-of a bay leaf, six broken peppercorns, four whole cloves, and a gill
-of claret. Add the eels to this, and simmer until thoroughly cooked.
-Remove the eels, put them on a hot dish, add a teaspoonful of browned
-flour to the sauce, strain, and pour over the eels.
-
-
-=Pan Bass, Anchovy Butter.=--During February, March, and the first part
-of April, there may be found in market a variety of bass which much
-resembles the Oswego bass. They come from the Carolinas and Virginia,
-and are excellent eating. Let them stand an hour in salt water, then
-drain and wipe dry, and fry them in tried-out salt-pork fat. Serve them
-with a butter made as follows: Mix together a teaspoonful of anchovy
-paste with a tablespoonful of sweet butter, and, if not objected to,
-add a few blades of chopped chives.
-
-The chive has the flavor peculiar to the onion family, but in a mild
-form. It is cultivated by truck gardeners, and may be found on the New
-York vegetable stands as early as January. The retail price at the
-first of the season is ten cents a tuft; as it becomes more plentiful,
-it is offered at five cents.
-
-Placed in the kitchen, it grows luxuriantly,--in fact, it grows faster
-than it can be used by a small family. This very useful herb should be
-in the kitchen window of every home where soups and salads are rightly
-appreciated.
-
-The chive grows wild in nearly all of the Middle and Eastern States,
-and the first green spot seen in our parks is more than likely to be
-chives. Cows eat it, and their milk has a slight garlic flavor. The
-garlic flavor in milk is decidedly objectionable; yet the early Dutch
-settlers planted the chives in the pastures for the cows to eat,
-thereby imparting to the milk this peculiar flavor.
-
-
-=Fillet of Flounder, Tartar Sauce.=--Cut the flesh from the bone
-lengthwise, and then cut each piece into strips an inch wide. Dip them
-in beaten egg. Roll them in cracker-crumbs, and fry in hot fat enough
-to cover them. This dish appears on our French bills-of-fare as _filet
-de sole_. Serve with _sauce tartare_.
-
-
-=Fried Tomcods.=--These delicate, sweet-flavored pan-fish are called
-frost-fish by dealers, but the fishermen along the Hudson call them
-“Tommies.” Whatever name they are known by, they are delicious morsels
-when fresh caught. Clean them without removing the heads, dry them in
-a napkin, and salt their insides, dredge them with a little flour,
-and fry them crisp in hot smoking fat. Put the clean fish into a
-baking-tin. Over each fish place a thin slice of bacon, add salt and
-pepper, and bake them twenty minutes in a hot oven.
-
-
-=Broiled Salt Codfish.=--Cut half of a small codfish into medium-sized
-square pieces; split them in two, and soak them over night in cold
-water. Drain, and dry them in a napkin, next morning. Rub a little
-butter over each piece, and broil them. Place them on a hot platter,
-and pour a little melted butter over them.
-
-Drawn butter is sometimes served with this dish. It should be very
-smooth looking, and have a starchy appearance. Divide three ounces
-of butter into little balls. Dredge them with flour. Put one-fourth
-of them into a saucepan, and when they begin to melt, whisk to a
-smooth consistency. Now add one more of the floured balls, and whisk
-thoroughly until incorporated with the first. Repeat this process
-until all are used. When smooth and thick, stir in a teaspoonful of
-lemon-juice, and, if liked, a little chopped parsley.
-
-
-=Broiled Salt Mackerel.=--“I like salt mackerel, but it does not
-agree with me,” is a remark often heard in nearly all classes of
-society. Many imagine they can eat cured fish with the same degree of
-recklessness and lack of regard for dietetic laws which they often
-show in eating more digestible food. They soon discover, however, that
-something is radically wrong; just where the blame rests, is a matter
-they settle to their own satisfaction by declaring that salt mackerel
-was not intended for civilized people, because they are unable to eat
-it without experiencing disagreeable after-effects.
-
-Salt mackerel is really wholesome food, but, like all cured food, is
-not so digestible as when fresh: it is therefore necessary to restore
-it as near as possible to its original freshness. This is done by a
-thorough soaking in a liberal quantity of fresh water. There is no
-danger of the fish becoming too fresh; if it does, it is an easy matter
-to add fresh salt, which is much more acceptable than condensed brine.
-
-In selecting salt mackerel, examine them carefully. If rusty in
-appearance reject them, “for rust in fish, if I am not mistaken, is
-as bad as rust in steel or rust in bacon.” Large fish are likely to
-be poor and coarse; a medium-sized or No. 2 is the most profitable
-provided the white or under part of the fish is fat. After soaking
-thoroughly, rub a little melted butter or olive-oil over them, and
-broil not too close to the fire; do not cook them enough to dry up all
-moisture, as they would then be unpalatable. After broiling, plunge
-them into boiling water for a moment to swell them,--this treatment
-gives the fish the appearance of being fat,--place on a hot plate, add
-a little melted butter, a dash of pepper, and finally the juice of half
-a lemon.
-
-To avoid the unpleasantness referred to, drink all liquids first,
-before eating a mouthful of the fish; masticate the food thoroughly
-and slowly, and the result will be surprising. Those who eat salt fish
-alternated with mouthfuls of liquid must expect the oily particles to
-rise up, and create a gastronomic disturbance.
-
-
-=Fried Porgies with Salt Pork.=--The much-abused porgy is one of the
-sweetest of pan-fish. Select four good-sized porgies, and clean them,
-but do not remove the heads. Cut into small dice a quarter of a pound
-of fat salt pork, fry out the fat, and when it is very hot fry the fish
-in it. While they are cooking, broil four small thin slices of the
-pork, and serve by placing them on top of the fish. Pork gives a more
-delicate flavor to the fish than bacon.
-
-
-=Fish Curries.=--Cold boiled or baked fish is simply a luxury when
-warmed up in a delicious curry sauce. This dish may be served at
-breakfast or luncheon. Americans are fast learning the usefulness of
-curry-powders; as yet they demand a mild form of curry, and a little
-flour is added to the sauce to tone down the pungency of the curry.
-
-
-=A Plain Fish Curry.=--Fry an onion quite brown in a little butter or
-oil, add a teaspoonful of curry-powder and half a pint of hot water.
-Dissolve a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold water; when free from
-lumps add it to the sauce, then strain; divide the cold fish into
-flakes, and warm it up in the sauce.
-
-
-=Curry of Scallops.=--Wash a quart of scallops in cold water, drain,
-put them in a saucepan, and let them simmer gently one hour. Blanch two
-ounces of sweet almonds, remove husks, and fry a delicate brown; drain
-from the hot butter, and pound to a paste with a clove of garlic, the
-grated rind of a lemon. Mix two teaspoonfuls of curry, a little sauce,
-and an ounce of butter, put it in the frying-pan, and add gradually
-one half-pint of the scallop broth and the almond paste. Now add a
-pint of hot milk; simmer until the liquid is reduced one-third, add the
-scallops, and serve.
-
-
-=Curry of Crayfish.=--These may be purchased by the quart at all
-seasons. They are already boiled. Prepare the curry sauce as above
-described, add the crayfish, and serve with rice; over all squeeze the
-juice of a sweet orange.
-
-
-=Curry of Eels, with Rice.=--Cut into two-inch pieces one medium-sized
-eel or two small ones; put them in a saucepan, and cover with boiling
-water; add a little salt, a piece of lemon-peel, and a tablespoonful
-of vinegar; boil slowly one hour, and drain. Cut up a small onion, and
-fry it brown in a little butter; add a pint of the water in which the
-fish was boiled, and a teaspoonful of walnut catsup. Mix together a
-teaspoonful of flour with a gill of cold water, rub it smooth, and add
-a teaspoonful of dry curry-powder. Mix, and add it to the pan, strain,
-and return to the pan; then add the eels; simmer fifteen minutes, and
-serve surrounded by a border of boiled rice.
-
-
-=Curry of Shad Roe.=--Fry half an onion very brown in a heaping
-teaspoonful of dripping; add a teaspoonful of curry-powder, and a few
-moments later add a gill of hot water; simmer five minutes, and add
-a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little water. When it begins to
-thicken, strain. While preparing the sauce, boil two roes in water well
-salted. When done, place them on a hot platter, and pour the sauce over
-them.
-
-
-=Curry of Frogs’ Legs.=--This is an excellent dish. Wash one pound
-of frogs’ legs in cold water; brown one-fourth of an onion in oil or
-butter; add a teaspoonful of curry and a pint of hot water; pour this
-in a saucepan, and add the frogs; simmer an hour and a half, and drain.
-Mix a teaspoonful each of rice-flour and curry to a paste, with the
-broth; add salt to taste, and half a pint of milk. Place on the range,
-and when hot add the frogs. Blanch two dozen sweet almonds; rub off
-the skins, split them, and toss them about in hot butter; season with
-pepper and salt; when done squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, and
-send to table on separate dish with the curry.
-
-
-=Broiled Weakfish.=--When freshly caught, this is an excellent fish
-and well flavored; but it loses its flavor when kept on ice more than
-a day, and the flesh becomes soft and spongy. In color the weakfish is
-of a bluish-gray, with faint speckled back and sides, belly white, the
-fins yellow. It is in season from May to October, and is best-flavored
-in the latest two months of that time. Select a medium-sized fish for
-broiling; see that the flesh is firm, the eyes bright, and the gills
-a bright red, and free from a soft, flabby appearance. Place the
-well-cleaned whole fish on the table or fish-board, back towards you;
-make an incision close to the head, down to the bone; hold the head
-firmly with the left hand, and cut the fish in two lengthwise, keeping
-the knife close to the bone the whole length of the fish; remove the
-bone. (The bone and head may be boiled a few hours, seasoned, and
-the broth used in fast-day soups.) Cut each piece of fish in two,
-crosswise; rub on a little sweet oil or melted butter; broil the outer
-side first, then the inner side, and serve with this side upwards on
-the hot dish; pour over the fish well-made drawn butter (which see).
-
-
-=Baked Whitefish, Bordeaux Sauce.=--Clean and stuff the fish. Put it in
-a baking-pan, and add a liberal quantity of butter, previously rolled
-in flour, to the fish. Put in the pan half a pint of claret, and bake
-for an hour. Remove the fish, and strain the gravy; add to the latter
-a gill more of claret, a teaspoonful of brown flour, and a pinch of
-cayenne, and serve with the fish.
-
-
-=Halibut, Egg Sauce.=--Select a three-pound piece of white halibut,
-cover it with a cloth, and place it in a steamer; set the steamer over
-a pot of fast boiling water, and steam two hours; place it on a hot
-dish, surrounded with a border of parsley; and serve with egg-sauce,
-which is made as follows:--
-
-
-=Egg Sauce.=--Cream an ounce of butter; add to it one tablespoonful of
-dry flour, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of white
-pepper (black pepper spoils its color). Stir it briskly, and add half
-a pint of hot water. Divide an ounce of butter into little balls, roll
-them in flour, and add them one at a time; stir constantly, and care
-should be exercised not to allow the sauce to brown or discolor. Chop
-three cold hard-boiled eggs, and add them to the sauce; let it heat
-thoroughly, and serve in a boat.
-
-
-=Fried Butterfish.=--These flat, slate-colored little fish are
-excellent when quite fresh; and as they are easily cleaned, they are
-recommended to house-keepers. Fry them in tried-out salt-pork fat,
-which gives them a very nice flavor.
-
-
-=Broiled Shad.=--The secret of having the fish juicy, and at the same
-time properly cooked, is to rub a little olive-oil over it before
-broiling, and broil it over a fire free from smoke or flame. Charcoal
-affords the best fire. The sulphurous fumes of hard coal injure the
-flavor of the fish. When done, have ready a little sweet butter melted
-and mixed with salt, white pepper (black pepper spoils the looks of the
-fish), half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley to two ounces of butter,
-and the juice of half a lemon. Place the fish on a hot dish, pour the
-hot sauce over it, and serve with hot plates.
-
-
-=Baked Shad.=--Broiling is, next to planking, the best way of cooking
-this excellent fish; but a baked shad is not to be despised. Prepare it
-as follows:--
-
-Make a stuffing of soaked bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, and salt; place
-it lengthwise in a pan; roll walnuts of butter in flour, and put four
-to six of them on top of the fish; fill the space around the fish with
-inch slices of raw potato, and bake forty minutes. When done, serve
-potatoes and fish together.
-
-
-=Shad Roe à la Poulette.=--Cover a pair of roes with water slightly
-salted; add a tablespoonful of vinegar and a slice of lemon; simmer
-twenty minutes, and drain; put into a saucepan an ounce of butter; when
-it begins to melt, whisk it, and add the juice of half a lemon.
-
-Beat up the yolk of one egg with a gill of cream containing half a
-teaspoonful of flour rubbed free from lumps; whisk this gently into the
-warm butter; keep it quite warm until it thickens, but do not boil, or
-it will curdle. Pour it over the shad roes, strew over the top a trifle
-of chopped parsley, and serve.
-
-
-=Broiled Royans.=--These delicate little fish are excellent as whet at
-dinner-parties, and may be served _au naturel_, or broiled, or served
-on toast. Procure them from the nearest grocer, open the can carefully
-to prevent breaking the fish, remove the skin, and broil them over a
-slow fire; arrange them on toast, squeeze a little lemon-juice over
-them, and serve.
-
-
-=Broiled Sardines.=--When neatly prepared, this forms an excellent
-breakfast or luncheon dish.
-
-Remove the sardines from the can without breaking them; scrape off the
-skin, place them between double wire broilers, and broil to a delicate
-brown; arrange neatly in a hot dish, squeeze a little lemon-juice over
-them, and serve. Orange-juice is very nice with the above dish.
-
-
-=Broiled Smelts, Sauce Tartare.=--Thoroughly clean half a dozen smelts,
-split them in two, place them on a double wire broiler, and broil. Send
-to table with _sauce tartare_, which is made as follows: Chop together
-a few sprigs of parsley, six capers, one small pickle, a piece of
-onion as large as a bean. Add these to half a pint of mayonnaise, mix,
-and add a teaspoonful of French mustard, mix again, and serve.
-
-
-=Smelts Fried, Sauce Tartare.=--Clean six small smelts, leave on the
-heads, dip them in beaten egg, roll them in fine cracker-dust, and fry
-in very hot fat. Serve with sauce tartare.
-
-
-=Broiled Whitefish.=--The whitefish is one of the best of summer fish,
-but does not stand long transportation very well. See that the flesh is
-firm, and free from flabbiness. Cut the fish in two lengthwise, remove
-the backbone, divide each piece in two; brush over it a little sweet
-butter or olive-oil, and broil over a moderate fire for ten minutes.
-Place it in a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, add salt
-and pepper and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Garnish with tufts of
-parsley and thin slices of lemon, and serve.
-
-
-=Sheeps-head with Drawn Butter.=--The Englishman who wrote the
-extraordinary statement that sheeps-head sometimes sold for “four or
-five pounds sterling in New York” may be pleased to learn that the
-price for this excellent fish is fifteen to eighteen cents per pound
-on an average, and that the best mode of preparing it for table is to
-boil or steam it, although broiled sheeps-head is very good.
-
-Procure a medium-sized fish, clean it thoroughly, and rub a little salt
-over it; wrap it in a cloth, and put it in a steamer; place this over a
-pot of fast boiling water, and steam one hour; then lay it whole upon a
-hot side-dish, garnish with tufts of parsley and slices of lemon, and
-serve with drawn butter prepared as follows:--
-
-
-=Drawn Butter.=--Take four ounces of butter, and roll it into small
-balls; dredge these with flour; put one-fourth of them in a saucepan,
-and as they begin to melt whisk them; add the remainder, one at a
-time, until thoroughly smooth; while stirring add a tablespoonful of
-lemon-juice and half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; pour into a hot
-sauce-boat, and serve.
-
-
-=Broiled Sheeps-head.=--Split the fish in two lengthwise, and remove
-the head and bone, brush over the fish a liberal quantity of melted
-butter or oil, then broil over a fire free from flame or smoke. When
-done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over the fish, then add salt,
-pepper, and a pat of the choicest table butter.
-
-
-
-
- * * * * *
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
-
-Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Other
-variations in hyphenation, spelling and punctuation remain unchanged.
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OYSTERS AND FISH***
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-<body>
-<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oysters and Fish, by Thomas J. (Thomas
-Jefferson) Murrey</h1>
-<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States
-and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
-restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
-under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
-eBook or online at <a
-href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not
-located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this ebook.</p>
-<p>Title: Oysters and Fish</p>
-<p>Author: Thomas J. (Thomas Jefferson) Murrey</p>
-<p>Release Date: November 13, 2016 [eBook #53521]</p>
-<p>Language: English</p>
-<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p>
-<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OYSTERS AND FISH***</p>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<h4>E-text prepared by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
- (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
- from page images generously made available by<br />
- Internet Archive<br />
- (<a href="https://archive.org">https://archive.org</a>)</h4>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
- <tr>
- <td valign="top">
- Note:
- </td>
- <td>
- Images of the original pages are available through
- Internet Archive. See
- <a href="https://archive.org/details/oystersfish00murr">
- https://archive.org/details/oystersfish00murr</a>
- </td>
- </tr>
-</table>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<hr class="full" />
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-
-<h1>
-<span class="smcap">Oysters and Fish</span></h1>
-
-<p class="center"><small>BY</small></p>
-
-<p class="center">THOMAS J. MURREY</p>
-
-<p class="center xs">AUTHOR OF “FIFTY SOUPS,” “FIFTY SALADS,” “BREAKFAST<br />
-DAINTIES,” “PUDDINGS AND DAINTY DESSERTS,” “THE<br />
-BOOK OF ENTRÉES,” “COOKERY FOR INVALIDS,”<br />
-“PRACTICAL CARVING,” “LUNCHEON,” “VALUABLE<br />
-COOKING RECIPES,” ETC.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" >
-<img src="images/i001.jpg" alt="Colophon" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">NEW YORK<br />
-<span class="smcap"><small>Copyright, 1888, by</small></span><br />
-FREDERICK A. STOKES &amp; BROTHER<br />
-1888</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-
-
-<h2 id="DEDICATION">DEDICATION.</h2>
-
-<p class="center">
-<i>To the Inventor of the</i></p>
-
-<p class="center">SHELDON CLOSE-TOP GAS-STOVE,</p>
-
-<p class="center"><i>Who spent the best part of his life solving the<br />
-perplexed problem of Economy in Fuel and<br />
-Labor in our homes, and to those gentlemen<br />
-connected with gas companies, who assisted<br />
-and encouraged him, this little work is<br />
-most respectfully dedicated by</i></p>
-
-<p class="center">THE AUTHOR.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2 id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2>
-
-
-<div class="center">
-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
-<tr>
- <td align="right" colspan="2"><small>PAGE</small></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">INTRODUCTORY</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">THE OYSTER</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Oyster Season</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters out of Season</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters Preserved in Shell</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Food of the Oyster</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Formation of the Deep Shell</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Cock Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_15">15</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Green Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_15">15</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Banquet Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_16">16</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Ordering Oysters for the Family Table</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_17">17</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">How Oysters should be Opened</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_18">18</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">How to serve Raw Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_18">18</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Collation Service</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_19">19</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">How to Eat a Raw Oyster</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_19">19</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">A Barrel of Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_20">20</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Read This!</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_20">20</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">COOKED OYSTERS</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Philadelphia Fried Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_22">22</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Pickled-Oyster Omelet</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Deviled Oysters on Toast</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Pickled Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span><span class="smcap">Scalloped Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">25</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster Salad</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">25</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Plain Fried Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Miss Parloa’s “New Cook-Book”</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster Toast</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster Omelet</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters, Broiled</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Tripe with Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters en Brochette</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster and Canned Salmon Pie</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster Patties</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oysters à la Poulette</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Pie of Oysters and Scallops</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Steamed Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_30">30</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">To Serve Steamed Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_30">30</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Roast Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Baked Oysters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">CLAMS</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Little-Neck Clams</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft Clams in Chafing-Dish</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_32">32</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Little-Neck Clams</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft Clams</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft-shell Clams Scalloped</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Clam Toast</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Clam Broth</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Clam Fritters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span><span class="smcap">Fried Soft Clams</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">CRABS</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Hard-shell Crabs</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crab Patties, Cream Sauce</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_36">36</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft-shell Crabs</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_37">37</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Care of Soft Crabs</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crabs, Soft-shell</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_39">39</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crab Croquettes</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_39">39</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crab Patties, à la Bechamel</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_40">40</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crabs, à l’Américaine</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_41">41</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crabs, Deviled</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_41">41</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">SCALLOPS</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Scallop Broth</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Small Patties of Scallops</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Scallops</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Scallops en Brochette</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Scallops</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">MUSSELS</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Mussel</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">THE LOBSTER</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Remarks on the Lobster</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">The Season for Lobster</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Soft-shell Lobster not Edible</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Selecting Lobsters</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Value of the Lobster as Food</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Lobster</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_47">47</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Lobster Croquettes with Pease</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_48">48</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span><span class="smcap">Lobsters en Brochette</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_48">48</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Deviled Lobster</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_49">49</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Lobster, à la Créole</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_49">49</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Lobster</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_50">50</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Lobster Salad</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_50">50</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">THE OYSTER CRAB</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_51">51</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">To Serve Oyster Crabs</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster-Crab Omelet</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Oyster-Crab Sauce</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Acknowledgment</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_53">53</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">SHRIMPS</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_53">53</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Market Price of Shrimps</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_54">54</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Shrimp Omelet</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_54">54</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Shrimp Sauce</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_54">54</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">PRAWNS</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_54">54</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Prawns</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Prawns, Deviled, en Coquille</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Prawns, Sauté, à la Marengo</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Prawn Salad</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">CRAYFISH</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Crayfish Omelet</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">SALMON</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon Steak</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Canned Salmon</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon Patties</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_58">58</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon Surprise</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon à la Créole</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span><span class="smcap">Salmon Pie</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_60">60</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon in Jelly</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_60">60</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon Omelet</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon, German Style</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon à l’Italienne</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon à la Hollandaise</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_62">62</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salmon, Hunter’s Style</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_62">62</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Bouillabaisse</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">CODFISH</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Codfish Tongues</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_64">64</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Codfish Steak</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_64">64</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">New-England Codfish Balls</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_65">65</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Baked Cod</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_66">66</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Salt Codfish with Cream</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_66">66</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Scrod</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_67">67</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">BROOK TROUT</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_67">67</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Brook Trout, Sportsman Style</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_68">68</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Trout</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_69">69</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Brook Trout, Baked</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_69">69</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Brook Trout, Boiled</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">MISCELLANEOUS</td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Catfish, Fried</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Tenderloin Trout</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_71">71</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fricasseed Eels</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_71">71</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Eel Patties</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Stewed Eels, Hoboken Turtle Club Style</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span><span class="smcap">Pan Bass, Anchovy Butter</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_73">73</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fillet of Flounder, Tartar Sauce</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_74">74</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Tomcods</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Salt Codfish</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Salt Mackerel</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Porgies with Salt Pork</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_77">77</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fish Curries</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">A Plain Fish Curry</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Scallops</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Crayfish</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Eels, with Rice</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Shad Roe</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Curry of Frogs’ Legs</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Weakfish</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Baked Whitefish, Bordeaux Sauce</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Halibut, Egg Sauce</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Egg Sauce</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Fried Butterfish</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Shad</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Baked Shad</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Shad Roe à la Poulette</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Royans</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Sardines</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Smelts, Sauce Tartare</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Smelts Fried, Sauce Tartare</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">85</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Whitefish</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">85</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Sheep’s-head with Drawn Butter</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">85</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Drawn Butter</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_86">86</a> </td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdli"><span class="smcap">Broiled Sheep’s-head</span></td>
- <td align="right"><a href="#Page_86">86</a> </td>
-</tr>
-</table></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<div class="chapter"></div>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2 id="INTRODUCTORY">INTRODUCTORY.</h2>
-
-
-<p>Would it not be beneficial, were the average
-American to substitute fish for the everlasting
-steak and chop of the breakfast-table?</p>
-
-<p>For the sake of variety, if for no other reason,
-we should eat more fish; and it need not
-always be fried or broiled. A well-made fish
-stew or a curry should be acceptable to the
-majority of us, and undoubtedly would be if
-appetizingly prepared.</p>
-
-<p>This little work does not by any means propose
-to exhaust the subject of sea-food, for the
-subject is almost inexhaustible; but it places
-within the reach of all a series of recipes and
-suggestions extremely valuable to the average
-housewife.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="THE_OYSTER">THE OYSTER.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>The Oyster Season</b> opens in the city of
-New York on the first day of September, and
-closes on the last day of April in each year.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span>
-The annual amount of business done in the
-oyster trade is close on to $5,000,000. Each
-successive year witnesses an increase in the
-business.</p>
-
-<p>Notwithstanding the R canon, there are thousands
-of persons who eat oysters at the summer
-resorts along the seashore throughout hot
-weather.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oysters out of Season.</b>&mdash;The writer
-does not recommend the eating of oysters out
-of their season, no matter how fresh they may
-be, or how appetizing they may appear.</p>
-
-<p>To supply the demands made upon them by
-summer resorts, oyster-planters shift the oysters,
-during the spawning season, from warm shallow
-water to cold deep water. This checks or prevents
-the oysters from spawning, and to all
-appearance they are edible; but the writer
-firmly believes that interfering with the laws
-of nature affects the health of the oyster, and
-they cannot be as wholesome as planters would
-have us believe.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oysters Preserved in Shell.</b>&mdash;So long
-as the oyster retains its natural juices, it will
-live out of water, provided the changes in the
-temperature are not too sudden. The moment
-the oyster opens its shells, however, the juices
-run out, and in a short time afterward the oyster<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span>
-dies. To prevent the oyster opening its stony
-overcoat, is the object of oyster-shippers; and
-the Patent Office bears witness to their many
-devices having this object in view. Some wire
-the shells, others clasp or envelope the broad
-end of the shells with tin or other metal. No
-doubt these devices aid in keeping the oyster
-alive and fresh a little longer. Whether the
-nervous system of the oyster is affected by the
-process, is a question. Scientists tell us that
-oysters possess organs of sensation, and all
-who have handled oysters learn in time that
-a sudden jar or shock will kill them. The jar
-of the machinery of a steamboat will sometimes
-kill an oyster. When shipped to Europe
-they are ordered to be stored as far away from
-the machinery as possible. Some authorities
-claim that the oyster can hear. One cannot
-noisily approach an oyster-bed at feeding time
-without their hearing, and instantly every shell
-is closed. A cloud or a boat passing over an
-oyster-bank will cause every shell to close with
-proverbial tightness, and the sound of thunder
-will often kill them while they are in transit,&mdash;conclusive
-evidence that the nervous system
-in an oyster, while not highly developed, is of
-sufficient importance to merit attention from
-those who roughly handle oysters.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span></p>
-
-<p class="psub"><b>The Food of the Oyster</b> consists of
-minute animal and vegetable organisms and
-small particles of organized matter. Ordinary
-sea-water contains an abundance of this sort
-of food, which is drawn into the gills with the
-water. As the water strains through the pores
-into the water tubes, the food particles are
-caught on the surface of the gills by a layer of
-adhesive slime. As soon as they are entangled,
-the microscopic hair-like projections on the
-gills strike against them in such a way as to
-slide them along the gills toward the mouth.
-When they reach the anterior ends of the gills,
-they are pushed off, and fall between the lips,
-which are also covered with thin hair-like projections,
-which carry the particles forward until
-they slide into the mouth. No wonder the
-intelligent tramp wished that he might become
-an oyster. His food would then come to him
-in a sort of endless progression.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Formation of the Deep Shell.</b>&mdash;Although
-the oyster lies upon the bottom with
-one shell above and one below, the shells are
-not upon the top and bottom of the body,
-but upon the right and left sides. The two
-shells are symmetrical in the young oyster; but
-after it becomes attached, the lower or attached
-side grows faster than the other, and becomes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span>
-deep and spoon-shaped, while the free valve
-remains nearly flat. In nearly every case the
-lower or deep valve is the left.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Cock Oysters.</b>&mdash;There is a belief among
-oyster-eaters, that the dark-gray or black oysters
-are male oysters, and are therefore superior
-to the female oyster. Such misinformation was
-evidently promulgated by oyster-openers in anticipation
-of a tip for serving selected oysters.
-There is no truth in the assertion, however, for
-there are just as many black female oysters as
-there are black male oysters. There is no characteristic
-color by which a male or cock oyster
-can be distinguished from a female oyster.
-Microscopic examination, or a scientific eye, is
-the means of discovering the sex of an oyster.</p>
-
-<p>The black-oyster romance is of ancient origin.
-The Roman oyster-smashers successfully
-“worked it” on Pliny, Horace, and other
-ancient writers and epicures.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Green Oysters.</b>&mdash;At least a million dollars
-worth of oysters are annually destroyed in New-York
-waters by sludge acid from the oil refineries
-and illegal dumpings. The acid kills the
-oysters the instant it touches them, and turns
-them green. There is very little danger that a
-poisoned oyster will reach the consumer, but the
-loss to the planter is enormous.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span></p>
-
-<p>The green tint of the oyster, or in fact any
-distinguished color the oyster may possess, is due
-to the color of its food and to the nature of the
-surrounding bottom. The bottom of the Shrewsbury
-River is mud; the oysters take on a peculiar
-tawny color from their muddy bed. Rockaway
-oysters exist on a hard sandy bottom. If
-the beds are covered with sea-lettuce, as they
-often are, the oysters take on a delicate green
-tint. When the lettuce is removed by a strong
-tide or high wind, the oysters gradually assume
-their white, slightly grayish color. Their shells
-are round, thin, and brittle. The shells from
-mud bottoms are long, narrow, thick, and
-spongy. Intruded mud is enclosed by a thin
-layer of pearly shell.</p>
-
-<p>The oyster epicure may rest assured of one
-fact. No matter what the color of an oyster may
-be, so long as it is alive and seasonable it is
-wholesome. It cannot absorb enough foreign
-matter to injure the epicure without committing
-suicide, and there is no possible danger of any
-one <i>swallowing</i> a dead oyster.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Banquet Oysters.</b>&mdash;As served at the average
-public banquet, the raw oyster is a thing of
-terror to appetite and to weak digestive organs.
-When looking for one’s seat, where, through an
-oversight, one is not furnished with a chart of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span>
-the tables, one beholds six very small emaciated
-oysters. The heat in the room has absorbed
-their moisture, afterwards the bed of fine ice on
-which they were placed has melted, and the
-water overflowed them, thereby finishing the work
-of destruction. One must be under the influence
-of the sherry and Vermouth of the reception-rooms,
-to be willing to begin the feast with such
-an introductory course. No wonder fashionable
-society demands a substitute for the oyster as
-the dinner season progresses. In the name
-of humanity, order the oysters to table and
-announce the dinner at the same time. Guests
-are willing to wait a few moments for toothsome
-oysters, provided they are direct from the ice-box.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Ordering Oysters for the Family
-Table.</b>&mdash;Send the servant to the nearest
-dealer, a few minutes before the oysters are
-wanted, and let her wait for them. In this way
-one is quite sure of procuring freshly opened
-oysters. Many dealers begin opening oysters
-for their family orders hours before they are
-to be served; and the result is, they have lost
-much of their juices before being served.</p>
-
-<p>Miss Parloa’s “New Cook Book” says, “Six
-large oysters are usually allowed each person.”
-This error should be corrected in future editions.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span>
-Large raw oysters on the half-shell are only
-served at oyster-counters to countrymen, and
-are not served at a dinner, no matter how unpretentious
-or how elaborate the affair may be.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>How Oysters should be opened.</b>&mdash;In
-the author’s work on “Luncheon,” reference
-is made to the great care which should be
-exercised in opening oysters; and it will bear
-repeating. Reject all oysters opened by the
-“smashing” process. The shells are not only
-broken and ragged, but, should a person swallow
-a ragged splinter of oyster-shell, there is great
-danger of its killing him. Insist on it that
-your oysters are opened by the so-called “stabbing”
-process.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>How to serve Raw Oysters.</b>&mdash;If for
-a quiet family affair, where “opened” oysters
-are used, keep the plates in ice-water, and dry
-them before placing the oysters on them. For
-more pretentious affairs, but where fancy oyster-plates
-are not a part of the dinner service, use
-soup-plates. Fill them with fine cracked ice,
-place a dainty doily over each, and set the
-oysters on top of the doily. The lemon should
-be served on a side-dish, and not in the centre
-of the dish as though one were dining in a restaurant.
-Four small Rockaways are sufficient
-to serve at the ordinary course dinner. In nine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span>
-cases are out of ten, Rockaways are served instead
-of the Blue Points. It is therefore advisable
-to order the former; the dealer might make a mistake
-if he had them in stock, and send the latter.</p>
-
-<p>It is quite English to serve raw oysters on the
-flat half-shell, but it is quite American to serve
-them on the deep shell. The American way is
-the best.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Collation Service.</b>&mdash;At evening collations,
-the oysters are served in the centre of a block of
-ice. A clear, square block of ice is selected, and
-a cavity or receptacle is made in it by the aid of
-a hot flat-iron held close to the ice. If one has
-patience, the cavity may be shaved out with an
-ice shave; if a pick is used, one is likely to
-split the cake of ice. An ice boat is easily
-formed by holding a hot flat-iron to a long piece
-of ice. Holes may be made through the bottom
-of the block of ice, and filled with brilliant
-flowers; and the outer sides and top should be
-handsomely decorated with flowers and smilax.
-If electric lights are used in the house, it is an
-easy matter to place them in the cake of ice:
-the effect is striking. The wires are carried from
-the room below the dining-room, or under the
-carpet.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>How to eat a Raw Oyster.</b>&mdash;Avoid as
-much as possible the use of condiments, when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span>
-eating oysters. They were never intended as
-an accompaniment of the oyster, and are only
-used by country people. A suspicion of lemon;
-a dash of salt when the dealer has kept them
-covered with cracked ice, and the descending
-ice-water washed out all sea flavor; and, for
-palates grown callous, a dash of cayenne. Such
-abominations as ketchup, Worcestershire sauce,
-etc., should never be used. Do not bolt the
-oyster, but masticate it; and one will soon learn
-to tell the different oysters by their different
-flavors. By bolting them, one will never know
-how to thoroughly appreciate them.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>A Barrel of Oysters.</b>&mdash;Persons living
-away from the city are advised to purchase
-oysters by the barrel. If kept with the deep
-shell down, and in a cool place, they will live a
-long time. The novice is likely to bruise fingers
-in vain attempts to open them; but, like carving,
-the opening of oysters should be part of a
-man’s education. Then there is the charm of
-roasting the oysters in the old-fashioned fire-place.
-Here the novice may burn a finger or
-two, but then it’s fun for the youngsters.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Read this!</b>&mdash;In W. Mattieu Williams’s
-“Chemistry of Cookery,” I find the following:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span>
-“More than half a century has elapsed since
-Dr. Beaumont published the results of his experiments
-on Alexis St. Martin. These showed
-that fresh raw oysters required two hours and
-fifty-five minutes to digest, and stewed fresh
-oysters three and a half hours for digestion;
-against one hour for boiled tripe, and three
-hours for roast or boiled beef or mutton.”</p>
-
-<p>The general impression among the people is,
-that raw oysters digest almost as soon as they
-become of the same temperature of the stomach.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="COOKED_OYSTERS">COOKED OYSTERS.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Oysters.</b>&mdash;Boil half a pint of
-milk; add to it eleven good-sized oysters, a
-walnut of butter, a dash of salt and of pepper.
-Allow the milk to boil up just once, and
-serve.</p>
-
-<p>The average cook puts the oysters on first,
-and after they boil cold milk is added. When
-the milk boils, the stew is served. The result
-of such treatment of the oyster causes it to
-shrivel so that it is hardly recognizable, and a
-good-sized oyster becomes a mere sprat. From
-this process of cooking originated the ancient
-moth-eaten jokes about church-fair stews.</p>
-
-<p>Cooked as in the foregoing recipe, the oyster
-retains its plump characteristics.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Philadelphia Fried Oysters.</b>&mdash;The author
-originally published this recipe in the New
-York “Evening Sun” by request.</p>
-
-<p>The average New Yorker may call the City of
-Brotherly Love a sleepy sort of a place, but it
-is wide enough awake gastronomically. It has
-within its city limits cooks who prepare fried
-oysters that fairly melt in one’s mouth. They
-are so delicate that there is not a pang of dyspepsia
-in a whole winter’s supply of the toothsome
-dainties. The reputation of Finneli’s
-Philadelphia fried oysters extends from Maine
-to California; and immense sums have been
-offered for the recipe, but its owner would not
-sell his secret at any price.</p>
-
-<p>Beat up three eggs thoroughly; add half a
-pint of oyster-juice, a pepper-spoonful of cayenne,
-a saltspoonful of black pepper, a tablespoonful
-of salt, and a teaspoonful of English
-mustard. Work the mixture to a batter, and
-gradually add a gill of oil. Now comes the
-more particular part of the formula. Cover a
-board or part of a table with a layer of cracker-crumbs
-half an inch deep. Drain fifty oysters
-free from liquid, place them on the cracker-crumbs,
-and dredge over them more cracker-crumbs.
-See to it that one oyster is not on top
-of another. Pick up each oyster by its beard,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span>
-and dip it in the batter. Have ready a quantity
-of bread-crumbs grated from the white part
-of stale bread; spread this out on the table, and
-after the oysters have been dipped in the batter
-lay them carefully on the bread-crumbs two
-inches apart. After they are all spread out, turn
-them over neatly, which will bread-crumb the
-other side. Dip them in the batter again by
-taking hold of the beard, and again spread them
-out on the bread-crumbs. Under no circumstances
-place one oyster on top of another, or
-in any way press them together; this would
-make them heavy. When the fat is so hot that
-the smoke from it would light a match, then fry
-them by again taking hold of the beard, one at
-a time, and dropping them into the fat. When
-they are dark brown, take them up, and strew
-over them a quantity of salt.</p>
-
-<p>The secret is in carefully handling the oyster
-after it has been breaded. How differently
-New York restaurants serve fried oysters! In
-almost every eating place in the city, one sees
-piles of oysters covered with a batter that plainly
-shows the cook purposely pressed them between
-his hands. When served they look more like
-liver-pads than human food. Nothing short of a
-human ostrich could possibly digest them. The
-Philadelphia oyster, however, is a culinary poem.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Oysters.</b>&mdash;Put an ounce of butter
-in a pan; add to it a teaspoon of curry-powder,
-and water enough to prevent burning. Put
-fifteen oysters in just water enough to cover
-them, simmer three minutes, and drain; thicken
-the broth with a teaspoonful of flour, salt to
-taste, stir this into the curry; add the oysters,
-simmer a moment, and serve with boiled rice.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Pickled-Oyster Omelet.</b>&mdash;Rinse six
-spiced or pickled oysters in cold water. Divide
-an ounce of butter into little balls, and roll them
-in flour; put them in a saucepan, heat gradually,
-and whisk to a cream; add a gill of hot
-water, salt and pepper. Cut the oysters in two,
-and add to the butter. Prepare an omelet in
-the usual manner; before folding, add the oysters;
-turn out on a hot dish, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Deviled Oysters on Toast.</b>&mdash;Mix together
-a heaping saltspoonful of mustard flour,
-half a saltspoonful each of white pepper and
-salt, and the yolk of one egg. Dip six oysters
-in the paste, then in fine crumbs, and broil over
-a moderate fire. When done, arrange on toast,
-and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Pickled Oysters.</b>&mdash;A few pickled oysters
-may be served instead of clams during warm
-weather. Scald a quart of oysters a moment,
-drain, and put them in jars. To a pint of oyster<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>
-liquor, add half a pint of hot water and half a
-pint of hot vinegar; pour over the oysters; add
-three cloves, four whole peppers, a small bit of
-mace, and a slice of lemon, to each jar. This
-will be sufficient for two ordinary fruit-jars.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Scalloped Oysters.</b>&mdash;Put in the bottom
-of a yellow dish two ounces of sweet butter,
-divided into little pieces. Add a layer of raw
-oysters, and cover them with cracker-dust or
-bread-crumbs, and add salt and pepper to taste;
-another layer of oysters, and so on until the dish
-is full, the last or top layer to be crumbs, and
-between each layer there should be a small
-amount of butter. Moisten the ingredients with
-a liberal quantity of oyster liquid, put small butter
-balls on top of the dish, and bake a delicate
-brown color. Oysters were formerly baked in
-a scalloped or shell-shaped dish, hence the
-name.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oyster Salad.</b>&mdash;Boil two dozen small oysters
-for five minutes in water enough to cover
-them; add a little salt and a tablespoonful of
-vinegar; drain and cool. Put into a salad-bowl
-the centre leaves of two heads of cabbage lettuce,
-add the oysters whole, pour over them a
-mayonnaise; garnish with oyster-crabs, hard-boiled
-eggs, and, if liked, a few anchovies cut
-into fillets.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Plain Fried Oysters.</b>&mdash;As a rule, fried
-oysters are not served as a breakfast dish, owing
-to the coating with which they are usually surrounded.
-Served plain, however, they are quite
-acceptable. Dry them well in a napkin, and
-roll them in a little flour to insure that they are
-quite dry, then cook them in a very little hot
-dripping.</p>
-
-<p>Miss Parloa’s “New Cook-Book” says, “a
-quart of oysters is enough for a party of ten”
-(p. 118). There are from twenty to twenty-five
-oysters in a quart, rarely more than this.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oyster Toast.</b>&mdash;Select fifteen plump oysters;
-chop them fine, and add salt, pepper, and
-a suspicion of nutmeg. Beat up the yolks of
-two eggs with a gill of cream; whisk this into the
-simmering oysters. When set, pour the whole
-over slices of buttered toast.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oyster Omelet.</b>&mdash;Stew six oysters in their
-own liquor for five minutes; remove the oysters,
-and thicken the liquid with a walnut of butter
-rolled in flour; season with salt and cayenne;
-whisk this to a cream. Chop the oysters, and
-add them to the sauce; simmer until the sauce
-thickens. Beat up four eggs lightly, and add a
-tablespoonful of cream; turn out into a hot pan,
-and fry a light gold-color. Before folding the
-omelet entirely, place the oysters with part of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span>
-the sauce within, and turn it over on a hot dish.
-The remainder of the sauce should be poured
-round it.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oysters Broiled.</b>&mdash;Rub the bars of a wire
-broiler with a little sweet butter; dry twelve
-large, plump oysters in a napkin, and place them
-on the broiler; brush a little butter over them,
-and broil over a fire free from flame and smoke.
-When done on both sides, arrange them neatly
-on toast; pour a little well-seasoned melted
-butter over them, and serve.</p>
-
-<p>Do not bread-crumb oysters intend for
-broiling.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Tripe with Oysters.</b>&mdash;Tripe, when properly
-prepared by a simple process, is very nutritious
-and easily digested.</p>
-
-<p>Cut up half a pound of well-washed tripe;
-simmer for three-quarters of an hour in water
-slightly salted; take out the tripe; add to the
-broth a little butter rolled in flour, salt and pepper;
-add a little more flour if not thick enough.
-Return the tripe and a dozen oysters; simmer
-for a few minutes longer, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oysters en Brochette.</b>&mdash;Select one dozen
-choice oysters; plunge them into hot water a
-second to make them firm (this process is called
-blanching), then drain, and dip them into melted
-butter; arrange them on skewers with alternate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span>
-layers of neatly sliced bacon; broil over a moderate
-fire. When done, add maitre-d’hôtel butter
-to them, and serve on the skewers.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fried Oysters.</b>&mdash;Beat up the yolks of four
-eggs with three tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and
-season them with a teaspoonful of salt and a
-saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up thoroughly.
-Dry twelve fat oysters on a napkin; dip
-them in the egg batter, then in cracker-dust;
-shake off the loose cracker-dust, dip them again
-in the egg batter, and lastly roll them in fine
-<i>bread-crumbs</i>. Fry in very hot fat, using fat
-enough to cover them. The oil gives them a
-nice flavor.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oyster and Canned Salmon Pie.</b>&mdash;One
-pound of best canned salmon, one pint of solid
-oysters, half a pint of oyster liquid; cover the
-bottom of the dish with neat pieces of the salmon,
-season with salt and pepper and an ounce
-of butter rolled in flour, add a few oysters, and
-so on until the ingredients are used. Pour
-in the liquid of both, and cover the top with
-paste. Bake in a moderate oven. There should
-be liquid enough to have the ingredients moist
-when served.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oyster Patties.</b>&mdash;Roll out a pound of light
-puff-paste, half an inch in thickness; cut it
-into rounds with a cake-cutter two inches in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span>
-diameter; press a small cutter one inch in
-diameter, on each round, one-fourth of an inch
-deep. Place them on a buttered tin, brush a
-little beaten egg over them, and bake in a quick
-oven. When done, remove the centre and a
-little of the inside. Scald (or, as it is called,
-blanch) three dozen oysters; drain. Put into
-a saucepan two ounces of butter, whisk it to a
-cream; add a teaspoonful of flour, stir free from
-lumps; add a heaping saltspoonful of salt, and
-a pepperspoonful of white pepper; whisk into it
-half a pint each of hot cream and the oyster
-liquor; allow it to simmer a few minutes and to
-thicken; then add the oysters and a “squeeze”
-of lemon-juice; when hot fill the shells, and
-serve. If nutmeg is not objected to, a little may
-be used.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oysters à la Poulette.</b>&mdash;Blanch (scald)
-a dozen oysters in their own liquor; drain them,
-and add to the liquor, salt, half an ounce of
-butter, the juice of half a lemon, a gill of cream,
-and a teaspoonful of dissolved flour. Beat the
-yolk of one egg, and add to the sauce. Stir until
-the sauce thickens; place the oysters on a hot
-dish, pour the sauce over them, add a very little
-chopped parsley, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Pie of Oysters and Scallops.</b>&mdash;Take
-one pint of fresh scallops, and wash them in cold<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span>
-water; drain, and dry them in a napkin. Cut a
-few slices of fat bacon in strips small enough to
-insert the ends in a larding-needle; lard the
-scallops with them, and dredge them slightly
-with flour. Select one quart of fat oysters; line
-a baking-dish with puff-paste; add the scallops
-and oysters in layers; season with salt, pepper,
-and a dash of mace. Divide an ounce of butter
-into little balls, roll them in flour, and put them
-between the layers; add the oyster liquor.
-Cover with a top crust; bake forty minutes in
-a moderate oven.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Steamed Oysters.</b>&mdash;Wash and scrub the
-shells thoroughly, and rinse them off in cold
-water. Put them in a steamer, large or deep
-shell <i>down</i>. Put the steamer on top of a pot
-of boiling water; steam about six minutes, or
-until the shells separate. Have ready a hot dish
-containing melted butter seasoned with a dash
-of Worcestershire, lemon-juice, salt and cayenne.
-Remove them from the steamer with gloved
-hands, and pick out the oysters with a flat
-knife, saving all the juice possible. Dip the
-oysters in the butter as you open them, and
-the number one can eat is surprising.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>To serve Steamed Oysters.</b>&mdash;Steam
-them as in the foregoing recipe. At each guest’s
-place at table have ready little saucers containing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span>
-a quantity of the hot melted butter. Remove
-the flat shell, and serve the oyster in the lower
-shell; send about six oysters to each guest at a
-time.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Roast Oysters.</b>&mdash;Clean the shells thoroughly,
-and place them on the coals in an open
-fire-place, or remove the top of range, and put
-them on the live coals, until they snap open,
-which they will soon do. Care must be exercised
-not to burn fingers.</p>
-
-<p>At evening, young folks like the fun of roasting
-oysters in the furnace below stairs, and eating
-them from the shell as fast as the host can open
-them.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Baked Oysters.</b>&mdash;Clean the shells thoroughly,
-and fill a dripping-pan with them, deep
-shell down. Look at them after ten minutes.
-If the shells are all opened, they are cooked
-enough. Melted butter, nicely seasoned, is the
-only sauce to serve with them.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="CLAMS">CLAMS.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Little-Neck Clams.</b>&mdash;From the first of
-September until the first of May in the following
-year, the clam&mdash;which is richer in nutrition
-than the oyster&mdash;is as meek and as gentle as a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span>
-clam can be. Yet it submits to all sorts of
-indignities from the oyster, and has never been
-known to talk back during the period mentioned.
-After the first of May, however, its
-manner changes, and it assumes metropolitan
-airs. It lords it over the oyster as a bantam
-struts around a helpless foe; and it plainly
-intimates to the oyster that moving-day was
-invented to celebrate its departure.</p>
-
-<p>After May 1, the clam must be recognized as
-the <i>avant-coureur</i> of all dainty feasts. No summer
-dinner or supper of any pretensions is considered
-complete without the small clam. All
-the small clams in market are supposed to
-come from Little Neck, Long Island. Not one-quarter
-of the supply comes from this locality.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Soft Clams in Chafing-Dish.</b>&mdash;Select a
-dozen large Guilford clams, wash them thoroughly,
-and plunge them into boiling water for
-a moment. Drain and open them, and use the
-round plump part only. Put in a chafing-dish
-a pat of butter, and when quite hot add a dash
-of flour, and cayenne to suit the taste; add the
-clams, and when they are slightly cooked add
-a gill of light sherry. Cover the dish, and allow
-it to simmer five minutes. Have ready three
-slices of toast, put four clams upon each slice,
-add a little of the hot sherry, and serve.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Little-Neck Clams.</b>&mdash;Get two
-dozen freshly opened, <i>very</i> small clams. Boil a
-pint of milk, a dash of white pepper, and a small
-pat of butter. Now add the clams. Let them
-come to a boil, and serve. Longer boiling will
-make the clams almost indigestible.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Soft Clams.</b>&mdash;Select a dozen soft-shell
-clams; wash them well; remove the shells;
-trim off the tough neck; place each clam on a
-half-shell, and add to each half a teaspoonful of
-finely-chopped bacon, a little cayenne, a very
-small bit of onion, and a pat of butter rolled in
-flour; strew over the top a little grated Parmesan
-cheese, and bake to a delicate brown. Cracker-crumbs
-may be used instead of the cheese if
-preferred.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Soft-Shell Clams, Scalloped.</b>&mdash;Purchase
-a dozen large soft clams in the shell, and three
-dozen opened clams. Ask the dealer to open
-the first dozen, care being used not to injure
-the shells, which are to be used in cooking the
-clams. Clean the shells well, and put two soft
-clams on each half-shell; add to each a dash
-of white pepper and half a teaspoonful of
-minced celery. Cut a slice of fat bacon into
-the smallest dice, add four of these to each
-shell, strew over the top a thin layer of cracker-dust,
-place a pat of table butter on top, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span>
-bake in the oven until brown. They are delightful
-when properly prepared.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Clam Toast.</b>&mdash;Chop up two dozen small
-clams into fine pieces; simmer for thirty minutes
-in hot water enough to cover them. Beat
-up the yolks of two eggs; add a little cayenne
-and a gill of warmed milk; dissolve half a teaspoonful
-of flour in a little cold milk; simmer
-all together; pour over buttered toast, and
-serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Clam Broth.</b>&mdash;Procure three dozen Little-Neck
-clams in the shell; wash them well in cold
-water; put them in a saucepan, cover with a
-quart of hot water; boil fifteen minutes; drain;
-remove the shells; chop up the clams, and add
-them to the hot broth with a pat of butter; salt
-if necessary, and add a little cayenne; boil ten
-minutes, pour into a soup-tureen, add a slice
-of toast, and send to table. This is the mode
-adopted when we do not have a clam-opener
-in the house.</p>
-
-<p>Raw, freshly opened clams should be chopped
-fine and prepared in the manner above described.
-The large clams are better for chowders than
-for stews and broth.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Clam Fritters.</b>&mdash;Chop medium fine
-twenty-five large quahaugs, or seventy-five Little
-Necks. To a pint of flour add the beaten yolks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>
-of three eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful
-of lemon-juice, a dash of cayenne, and
-an ounce of melted butter. Mix well, and make
-a batter by adding about a gill of milk. Add the
-clams, and if the batter is too thick add a little
-of the clam broth. To make them light, beat
-the mixture well; drop spoonfuls in hot fat, and
-fry brown, as you would doughnuts.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fried Soft Clams.&mdash;</b>Select half a dozen
-of large Guilford clams. Remove the shells, and
-trim off the dark tough parts. Cut into dice a
-quarter of a pound of salt pork, and fry it. In
-the pork-fat fry the clams, but first dredge them
-with flour. Serve with a slice of broiled or
-fried fat pork.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="CRABS">CRABS.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Hard-shell Crabs.</b>&mdash;The common blue
-crab is the species of the crab family which
-we are most familiar with. We remember how
-rapidly they darted away from us when we
-pointed the net towards them, when on our
-summer vacation. We also have vivid recollections
-of their anxiety to shake hands with us
-when in captivity.</p>
-
-<p>Hard crabs are to be had during almost the
-entire season, and the average price asked for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span>
-them is $3.00 per hundred. Those found in
-market in winter were raked out of the mud,
-where they had buried themselves until the
-advent of warm weather.</p>
-
-<p>Select a dozen hard crabs, and rinse them
-well in fresh water. Have ready a kettle two-thirds
-full of boiling water, slightly salted;
-plunge them into it, and boil them for about
-twelve minutes; drain, and when cool put them
-in the ice-box to become cold.</p>
-
-<p>After the theatre, return home for supper,
-instead of patronizing the restaurant, and serve
-the crabs with sandwiches of buttered bread. A
-light sauterne may be served with them, if not
-objected to.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Crab Patties, Cream Sauce.</b>&mdash;Roll out
-a pound of light puff-paste, half an inch in
-thickness. Cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter
-two inches in diameter. Press a small cutter
-one inch in diameter, on each round, one-fourth
-of an inch deep. Place them on a buttered tin,
-brush a little beaten egg over them, and bake
-in a quick oven. When done, remove the
-centre, and a little of the inside.</p>
-
-<p>Put into a saucepan half an ounce of butter,
-half an onion minced, half a pound of minced
-raw veal, and a small carrot shredded. Toss
-about for two or three minutes to fry, but not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>
-to color; then add two tablespoonfuls of flour.
-Mix it well with the other ingredients, and add
-three pints of hot water, a pint of boiling cream,
-half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful
-of white pepper. Simmer one hour, and strain
-into a saucepan. Add to each pint of it half a
-gill of warm cream. Place back on range again,
-and simmer until reduced enough to coat the
-spoon, then strain into a crock, and whisk until
-it is cold. This is done to prevent the formation
-of a thick top. At this season of the year
-this is an excellent sauce to have on hand for
-patties, white fish sauces, and also for meat
-sauces. When wanted for patties, melt an
-ounce of butter. While whisking it, gradually
-add a pint of the sauce. Mix it with a quart
-of prepared crab-meat, obtainable at the grocer’s.
-When hot, fill the shells with it.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Soft-shell Crabs.</b>&mdash;When the blue crab
-is desirous of increasing his growth, he sheds
-his shell, and for a short period is perfectly
-helpless. The male usually retires to a secluded
-spot out of the reach of eels and other enemies,
-but the female soft shell is protected by a male
-companion whose shell is hard. At Sheepshead
-Bay these are called elopers or double crabs.
-As the tide changes, the soft shell begins to
-harden, when it is called “paper-shell,” shedder,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>
-or feeler. Before reaching its normal condition,
-the crab is called a buckler, and is only used as
-bait.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>The Care of Soft Crabs.</b>&mdash;Soft crabs
-require delicate handling and much care. They
-deteriorate rapidly after leaving the water, and
-are often killed in transit by the sudden jarring
-of the train. If a little care is exercised, they
-may be kept alive from six to ten days. First
-select vigorous crabs, remove them from the
-crate, and give them a bath in water slightly
-salted. Clean the crate thoroughly, renew or
-wash the seaweed which accompanies them.
-Strew over the bottom of the crate a layer of
-the seaweed, and place the crabs in the crate
-in layers, faces upward with side spines touching
-each other, and alternated with layers of
-seaweed. When the crate is full, cover it with
-more seaweed, sprinkle salt water over all, and
-set the crate in a dark, cool place. Sprinkle
-salt water over them from day to day, and renew
-the bath and fresh sea-tangle about every
-other day. Treated this way, they will keep
-in the hottest weather. One of the principal
-objects in covering them with seaweed is to
-keep the light from them. Sudden flashes of
-lightning, if seen by them, would frighten them
-to death. Their sensitive organization cannot<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span>
-even stand the rumbling of thunder, and they
-should be stored away where they cannot hear
-it distinctly. The only care required in cleaning
-them for the table is to remove the feathery
-gill-like formations under the side spines, and
-the sand-pouch. Soft crabs are too delicate
-morsels to cover with batter.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Crabs, Soft-shell.</b>&mdash;These should be
-cooked as soon as possible after being caught,
-as their flavor rapidly deteriorates after being
-exposed to the air. Select crabs as lively as possible;
-remove the feathery substance under the
-pointed sides of the shells; rinse them in cold
-water; drain; season with salt and pepper;
-dredge them in flour, and fry in hot fat.</p>
-
-<p>Many serve them rolled in eggs and cracker-dust;
-but thus they are not as good.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Crab Croquettes.</b>&mdash;Take one pound of
-crab-meat; gently press out the juice, and put
-it in a bowl with a tablespoonful of fine crumbs,
-half a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of
-pepper, a dash of anchovy essence, the yolks
-of two eggs, and a very little cold water. If the
-eggs are not enough to make it the proper consistency,
-bind the ingredients together, and place
-on ice until wanted; then work into corks or
-cone-shaped forms, dip them in beaten egg, then
-in crumbs, and fry in hot fat.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Crab Patties, à la Bechamel.</b>&mdash;Prepare
-the shells the same as for oyster patties (which
-see). Put into a saucepan half an ounce of
-butter, half a medium-sized onion minced, half
-a pound of minced raw veal, one small carrot
-shredded; toss about for two minutes to fry, but
-not to color; add two tablespoonfuls of flour,
-stir it about with the vegetables; then add three
-pints of hot water, or if convenient use hot soup-stock
-instead; add a pint of boiling cream.
-Season with half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful
-of white pepper. Simmer one hour,
-and strain into a saucepan. Add to each pint
-of sauce half a wineglassful of cream. Simmer
-until reduced enough to coat a spoon; strain it
-again into a crock, and whisk it until cold, to
-prevent a thick top from forming. When wanted
-for patties, or any thing else, boil one pint of it
-with an ounce of butter, whisking it thoroughly.
-Prepare a quart of solid crab-meat, either picked
-from the shells or purchased already prepared;
-add it to a pint of the sauce; strew in a few
-shredded mushrooms: fill the crab-shells with
-this, and serve. On fast-days, omit veal and
-stock from meats, and use milk instead.</p>
-
-<p>[This very excellent sauce was named after
-the Marquis de Bechamel, a worthless court-lounger
-and steward under Louis XIV. Why his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span>
-unsavory memory has been perpetuated by a gastronomic
-monument of worth, is one of those
-inexplicable historical facts that students of the
-art of cookery are continually stumbling upon.
-The close observer will not fail, however, to
-discover that nearly all dishes named after old
-French celebrities were stolen bodily from old
-Venetian and Provençal books of cookery, and
-were re-baptized after some of the most notorious
-profligates of the seventeenth and eighteenth
-centuries. Many of these old cook-books, like
-“Opusculum de Obsoniis de Honesta Voluptate,”
-a volume printed at Venice, 1475 (the first
-cookery-book published), and others, contain
-recipes almost identical with French cookery
-of the past few centuries.]</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Crabs, à l’Américaine.</b>&mdash;Pick out the
-meat from the shells of four dozen boiled hard-shell
-crabs; squeeze out the water gently; put
-the meat in a bowl, and add the yolks of two raw
-eggs, salt, cayenne, and a very little chopped
-parsley, and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs;
-roll the mixture into small balls or cakes; dip
-in egg batter, roll in cracker-crumbs, and fry to
-a delicate brown. They may be served plain
-or with tomato sauce.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Crabs, Deviled.</b>&mdash;Pick out the meat of
-four dozen boiled hard-shell crabs, put it into a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span>
-bowl, and add a half-pint of mayonnaise. Mix
-carefully with your hand; wash a dozen of the
-shells, put a little of the mixture into each; grate
-a loaf of dry bread, season a pint of it with salt
-and pepper, sprinkle it over the crabs evenly;
-make twelve little balls of butter about the size
-of hickory-nuts; put one on top of each crab,
-and bake in a quick oven.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="SCALLOPS">SCALLOPS.</h2>
-
-
-<p>The scallop-shell is familiar to even the children
-who have visited the seashore, and the
-novice wonders why so small a tidbit should
-require so large a shell. The edible part of the
-scallop is only the powerful central muscle by
-which the mollusk opens and closes its shell. The
-medium-sized scallops are the best. The very
-large and very white variety are more than likely
-to have been inflated and bleached by the aid
-of saleratus.</p>
-
-<p>Scallop-shells were extensively used in ancient
-cookery, and gave to various dishes the prefix
-“scalloped.”</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Scallop Broth.</b>&mdash;The peculiar flavor of
-scallops is quite attractive to the convalescent,
-and a broth made from them is nourishing; but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>
-care should be exercised in selecting the shell-fish.
-To improve their appearance, shippers
-add quantities of saleratus to the scallops, which
-has the effect of bleaching them, and increasing
-their size: this custom may please the dealers,
-but not consumers. Select medium-sized scallops
-of a natural creamy color, wash them, and
-cut them into small pieces. To half a pint of
-these, add half a pint of warm water and half a
-pint of milk, a “pea” of butter, and a pinch
-of salt; simmer for twenty minutes; strain and
-serve.</p>
-
-<p>A pint of milk and no water may be used
-if the patient desires it.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Small Patties of Scallops.</b>&mdash;Wash a
-pint of scallops, drain, cut them up, and scald
-them; then put them in just milk enough to
-prevent burning. Add salt and white pepper,
-simmer until quite tender, and thicken with half
-a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in cold water.
-Pour this mixture in small patty-shells (see recipe
-for oyster patties), and serve after the soup and
-before the fish, or as an entrée.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fried Scallops.</b>&mdash;Rinse a pint of scallops
-in cold water slightly salted, then dry them in a
-napkin, and dredge them slightly with flour.
-Fry them in pork-fat. Egg batter and crumbs
-are not recommended.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Scallops en Brochette.</b>&mdash;Drain twenty-four
-medium-sized scallops in a napkin. Parboil
-them a moment. When cool arrange them on
-four skewers, six on each, alternated with thin
-slices of bacon the size of the scallops in width.
-Brush over the scallops a little melted butter,
-and broil. When done, serve with tufts of watercresses
-and lemon.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Scallops.</b>&mdash;Scald fifteen scallops,
-and put them into a stewpan with half a pint
-of boiling milk, a dash of cayenne, and a saltspoonful
-of salt. Just before serving, add very
-little table butter.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="MUSSELS">MUSSELS.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>The Mussel</b> is called the poor man’s
-oyster; but why the poor should have a monopoly
-of this very useful shellfish, the writer is at
-a loss to comprehend. During warm weather
-the spiced mussel is a treat: it may have the
-honor of ushering in a family dinner instead
-of the clam, and at collations and suppers it
-should be welcome. As they may be purchased
-at from eighteen to twenty-five cents per quart,
-it is a waste of time to pickle them at home,
-unless living at the seashore.</p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span></p>
-
-
-
-
-<h2 id="THE_LOBSTER">THE LOBSTER.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Remarks on the Lobster.</b>&mdash;It takes a
-lobster about five years to arrive at maturity, or
-over ten inches in length. The spawning season
-depends upon the temperature of the water.
-Along the Sound, the season begins in June,
-and ends in September.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>The Season for Lobster.</b>&mdash;Lobsters
-are at their best before the spawning season.
-They are then filled with roe, or coral as the
-red spawn is called by some. This is a great
-delicacy, and is highly esteemed by epicures.
-After the spawning season, which is late in the
-summer, they are in very poor condition, and
-should not be offered for sale until cool weather.</p>
-
-<p>The green part in the body of the lobster is
-called the tom-alley by New-England folks. It
-is excellent eating.</p>
-
-<p>The external spawn adhering to the tail of
-the female lobster, when not highly developed,
-is edible, and is used in garnishing and making
-lobster butter, paste, and cardinal-fish sauces.</p>
-
-<p>It is a curious fact, that the lobster changes
-or re-makes a shell from eight to ten times the
-first year, five to seven the second, three to four
-the third, and from two to three the fourth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span>
-year. So says Professor G. O. Sars of Norway,
-about the European lobster, whose habits agree
-more or less closely with those of the American
-lobster.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Soft-shell Lobster not edible.</b>&mdash;After
-the fifth year the change of shell is only annual.
-A soft-shell or shedder lobster, unlike
-the soft-shell crab, is not edible, and if eaten is
-likely to produce ill effects. In a soft condition
-the lobster itself is sick, and is therefore unfit for
-food.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Selecting Lobsters.</b>&mdash;Always select a firm
-shell, of a deep dark-green color. Light-colored,
-thin-shelled lobsters are likely to be lean and
-poor. When plunged into the boiling water,
-the joints contract, and the tail draws under,
-provided the lobster was alive at the time of
-immersion. If dead when boiled, the tendons are
-relaxed, the claws hang loosely, the tail will not
-possess a spring-like tenacity when straightened
-out. Select the former, and reject the latter.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Value of the Lobster as Food.</b>&mdash;According
-to Professor Atwater of Middletown,
-Conn., the nutritive value of the flesh of the
-lobster, compared with beef as a standard and
-reckoned at 100, is 61 to 97. Forty per cent
-of the lobster is edible, the remainder is shell
-and waste.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span></p>
-
-
-<p>Buckland says, “That phosphorus exists in
-large quantities, may be easily proved. A
-lobster in hot weather, when it ceases to be
-fresh, assumes a highly phosphorescent appearance
-when seen in the dark, equal if not superior
-to that of a glow-worm or luminous centipede.
-This light increases by friction.... The presence
-of phosphorus in the lobster is of great
-importance to the consumers of these sea
-luxuries. There is no substance which conveys
-phosphorus so readily into the human system
-in an agreeable form, and which the system so
-readily and quickly assimilates, as the flesh of
-crabs and lobsters.”</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Lobster.</b>&mdash;Select alive and active
-lobster not less than ten and a half inches long.
-(If below this measurement, the dealer should
-be arrested for breaking the law which protects
-the lobster.) Split it in two lengthwise, which
-instantly kills it. Remove the entrail through
-the fleshy part of the tail, and the crop or
-stomach near the head. This done, there are
-two ways of preparing it for table. One is as
-follows:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>Remove the flesh from the tail, and brush
-over it a little melted butter or olive-oil; broil it
-gently, but not too well done. Heat the shell,
-put the meat back in the shell again, add more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span>
-butter, salt, pepper, and serve on hot plates.
-The body parts may be boiled, and furnish
-dainty pickings for a late meal.</p>
-
-<p>The other way is that which is generally
-adopted by restaurants. Brush a little butter
-over the entire half of the green lobster; broil
-the shell side thoroughly first, then turn, and
-broil the other. Serve with maitre-d’hôtel sauce.</p>
-
-<p>A lobster that has once been boiled and then
-broiled is so thoroughly over-cooked as to be
-very indigestible.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Lobster Croquettes, with Pease.</b>&mdash;Boil
-one-half pint of milk, thicken it with a tablespoonful
-of flour, and let it become cold. Mince
-the meat of a one-pound can of lobster, or one
-pound of fresh lobster; when very fine, add a
-saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of
-white pepper. Moisten the lobster mince with
-the thickened milk, and work the whole to a
-paste; add very little bread-crumb if too thin;
-let it become amalgamated over the range, and
-place in the ice-box until wanted; then shape it
-into neat rolls or cones; dip them in egg and
-crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat. Arrange
-the forms neatly on a dish, put round them a
-border of pease, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Lobsters en Brochette.</b>&mdash;Instead of boiling
-the lobster-tails, cut them in pieces, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span>
-arrange these on small skewers, alternated with
-small pieces of bacon; brush melted butter over
-them, and either broil or bake them; serve with
-sauce tartare (which see on p. <a href="#Page_84">84</a>).</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Deviled Lobster.</b>&mdash;Take two live lobsters,
-remove the tails, split them in two, and make
-several incisions in them crosswise. Mix together
-half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful
-each of dry mustard and curry, and half a saltspoonful
-of white pepper, add a tablespoonful of
-oil; mix, spread it over the lobsters, and broil
-them. When done, return to the shells, which
-should have been kept hot for the purpose;
-pour a little melted butter over them, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Lobster, à la Créole.</b>&mdash;Remove
-the tail part of the meat from three green lobsters;
-split them in two lengthwise; remove the
-thread-like intestine. Melt an ounce of butter in
-a deep frying-pan; add the lobster; toss it for a
-few minutes in the butter; add salt and pepper
-and half a pint of hot water; cover, and simmer
-three-quarters of an hour; drain, and reduce
-the water one-half by rapid boiling. Put in
-a saucepan half an ounce of butter and a
-tablespoonful of minced onion; fry brown, and
-add three peeled and sliced tomatoes, one sweet
-pepper, four okra pods cut small, and half a teaspoonful
-of salt. Allow these to cook fifteen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span>
-minutes, add the broth, and simmer until
-reduced to a pulp; rub through a sieve; put
-this <i>puree</i> on a hot dish, place the lobster on
-top, add a little lemon-juice, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Lobster.</b>&mdash;Remove the meat
-from two boiled lobsters, cut it into neat pieces;
-take all green fat and coral, and set them aside;
-mix the green fat with a heaping spoonful
-of curry-powder. Squeeze out the juice of three
-limes, and add to it half a teaspoonful of powdered
-sugar. Put into a frying-pan an ounce
-of butter; when creamed add a teaspoonful of
-minced onion browned a little; now add the
-mixed curry-powder; dissolve a teaspoonful of
-rice-flour in cold water, add this to a pint of hot
-water or soup-stock, simmer until thick; now
-add the lobster, and simmer twenty minutes
-longer. Wash and dry the coral, separate it.
-Prepare a border of rice on a dish, and over it
-sprinkle the coral and eggs (if any); pour the
-curry in the centre, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Lobster Salad.</b>&mdash;Take two live hen (female)
-lobsters; boil them thirty minutes; drain. When
-cold, break them apart; crack the claws, and
-if the tail-fins are covered with eggs remove
-them carefully. Take out the sand-pouch found
-near the head; split the fleshy part of the tail
-in two lengthwise, remove the small long entrail<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span>
-found therein. Adhering to the body-shell
-may be found a layer of creamy fat; save this,
-and also the green fat in the body of the
-lobster (called tom-alley by New-Englanders),
-and the coral. If celery is used, tear the lobster
-into shreds with forks; if lettuce, cut the
-lobster into half-inch pieces. Place the salad
-herb in a bowl, add the lobster and the fat, and
-pour over it a rich mayonnaise; garnish with
-the claws and heads, tufts of green, hard-boiled
-eggs, etc. The lobster eggs may be separated,
-and sprinkled over the mayonnaise. The coral
-is used for coloring mayonnaise, and also butter,
-which is then used in decorating salmon and
-other dark fish used in salads.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="THE_OYSTER_CRAB">THE OYSTER CRAB.</h2>
-
-
-<p>The little crab found in the oyster is not, as
-commonly supposed by two-thirds of the oyster-eating
-community to be, the young of the blue
-crab; but it is a distinct species. It is a messmate
-of and caterer to the wants of the oyster,
-being therefore a benefit instead of a detriment
-to the latter. In return for the oyster’s kindness
-in protecting it against its enemies, the little
-crab catches and crushes food which in its en<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span>tire
-state could not be taken by the oyster. A
-singular thing in connection with them is, that
-all found inside of the oyster are females. The
-male of the same variety is found in the neighborhood,
-but its shell is firm.</p>
-
-<p>Oyster-crabs are found at the grocer’s, put up
-in half-pint bottles, which retail from 60 to 75
-cents each. At the markets they are sold at
-$2.50 per quart.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>To Serve Oyster Crabs.</b>&mdash;Put on a
-small saucer a crisp but dry leaf of lettuce, and
-put in the centre of each leaf a scant tablespoonful
-of the oyster crabs. Add a scant teaspoonful
-of mayonnaise to each, and serve as a whet
-before a ladies’ collation, or at an afternoon
-luncheon.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oyster-Crab Omelet.</b>&mdash;This is a most
-tempting dish. Roll an ounce of butter into
-little balls, dredge these with flour, put them in
-a pan, and when they begin to melt whisk them;
-do not let it brown; add a gill of hot water,
-and simmer until thick; now add half a pint of
-oyster crabs, salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Beat
-up four eggs thoroughly, and make them into an
-omelet; just before folding, add the crabs, and
-serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Oyster-Crab Sauce.</b>&mdash;Add a tablespoonful
-of oyster-crabs to half a pint of drawn<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>
-butter, sauce hollandaise, or in fact any white
-or cream fish-sauce, and serve with boiled
-fish.</p>
-
-
-<p class="center">ACKNOWLEDGMENT.</p>
-
-<p>The writer is deeply indebted to Prof. George
-Brown Goode’s compilation and reports of the
-“Fishery Industries of the United States,” for
-much of the natural history of fish and shell
-embodied in this work.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="SHRIMPS">SHRIMPS.</h2>
-
-
-<p>The common shrimp, which is caught in immense
-quantities along our coast all summer, and
-used for bait, is a dainty which summer residents
-should not neglect. When a shrimp salad is
-wanted, however, the servant is sent to the nearest
-grocer for a can of Southern shrimp, and the
-delicious morsel at their very door is used to
-feed the fishes. The trouble seems to be, that
-servants dislike the trouble of picking them out
-of their transparent shells.</p>
-
-<p>Summer hotels would buy the native shrimp
-if fishermen would take the trouble of offering
-them. No more appetizing or appropriate garnish
-for lobster salads and for portions of boiled fish<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span>
-can be imagined than the little home shrimp
-properly boiled. A plunge into the hot water is
-about all the cooking they need.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Market Price of Shrimps.</b>&mdash;Cooked and
-shelled shrimps are to be had in our markets
-during warm weather, for from thirty to fifty cents
-per quart. Canned shrimps retail for from thirty
-to forty cents per can, and $3.50 per dozen.
-Rinse them in fresh water before using them.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Shrimp Omelet.</b>&mdash;Toss half a pint of
-canned or fresh shrimps in a little hot butter for
-a moment; add a little salt and pepper and a
-tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Prepare the
-omelet, and just before folding add the shrimps,
-and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Shrimp Sauce.</b>&mdash;Cut up the shrimps into
-halves, add them to a creamy fish sauce of any
-kind; mix and serve.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="PRAWNS">PRAWNS.</h2>
-
-
-<p>Scientifically there is a difference between the
-prawn and the shrimp; but it need not be considered
-by the housewife, except that the prawn,
-that comes to this market from the South already
-cooked and shelled, is larger than the shrimp,
-and a little stronger flavored.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span></p>
-
-<p>The shrimps and prawns are found in salt and
-brackish water, while the crayfish are inhabitants
-of fresh water.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Prawns.</b>&mdash;Prawns are at their
-best served as a curry. Boil two quarts of live
-prawns thirty minutes, drain when slightly cooled,
-break away the shells, and set them aside. Put
-two ounces of butter in a frying-pan; when very
-hot add a clove of garlic and one sliced apple;
-brown slightly, remove the garlic, and add a dessertspoonful
-of curry-powder mixed with a gill
-of water; stir, and add half a pint of soup-stock
-and half a teaspoonful of flour; now add the
-prawns, and the juice of half a lemon in which
-a lump of sugar has been dissolved. Pour out
-on a hot dish, and send to table with rice
-croquettes.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Prawns, Deviled, en Coquille.</b>&mdash;Simmer
-a quart of prawns fifteen minutes in water flavored
-with a little sharp vinegar; drain, and cut
-them very fine. Add two ounces of butter, a gill
-of water, salt and pepper, the yolks of two eggs,
-and bread-crumbs to absorb the moisture. Mix
-to a paste. Partly fill the shells, cover with
-crumbs, add a small pat of butter to each, and
-bake to a delicate brown.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Prawns, Sauté, à la Marengo.</b>&mdash;Wash
-one pint of “shelled” prawns, simmer them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span>
-twenty minutes, drain, and toss them a moment
-in a little hot olive-oil; remove them, add a sprig
-of parsley, half a dozen button mushrooms, a
-gill of hot water, salt and pepper, and thicken
-with a little flour. Put the prawns on a dish,
-pour the sauce over them, garnish with fried
-eggs and slices of tomatoes fried.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Prawn Salad.</b>&mdash;Take one quart of prawns
-and one quart and a pint of cut celery; put the
-celery in a bowl; add the prawns; garnish neatly,
-and serve with a mayonnaise.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="CRAYFISH">CRAYFISH.</h2>
-
-
-<p>The crayfish are inhabitants of fresh-water
-streams; and they bear a striking resemblance
-to the lobster in appearance, spawning habits,
-shedding their shell, etc. Their season begins
-early in the spring, and lasts until cold weather.
-During a bountiful supply of these delicious
-shell-fish, large quantities are packed away in
-ice-houses for winter use, when there is a big
-demand for them from caterers who use them
-as garnishment, and for salads and sauces. They
-cost from three to four dollars per hundred
-in the New-York markets. Those that come
-from Milwaukee are highly esteemed; and, as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span>
-they are already cooked, they may be used at
-luncheon, and on fast-days as salads. A crayfish
-salad is an enjoyable dish.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Crayfish Omelet.</b>&mdash;Rinse half a pint of
-crayfish tails in salted water, and drain them;
-then split each tail in two lengthwise, and remove
-the thread-like intestine found therein.
-Toss them about a moment in a little butter and
-tablespoonful of broth or gravy; season with a
-dash of cayenne. Make a four-egg omelet, and
-just before folding add the crayfish.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="SALMON">SALMON.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Steak.</b>&mdash;Put into fast boiling water,
-salted, a slice of fresh salmon, and boil for five
-minutes quite rapidly; then set on back of the
-range where it will simmer for fifteen minutes
-longer. Drain, and place it on a napkin surrounded
-with a border of parsley. On the two
-ends of the platter place slices of lemon. Serve
-with a sauce in a sauce-boat. Drawn butter
-with a few prawns or shrimps cut up in it is a
-nice sauce for salmon.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Canned Salmon.</b>&mdash;The canning of salmon
-at the source of supply has been of lasting benefit
-to mankind, for we are now able to pro<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span>cure
-a pound of salmon in any quarter of the
-globe for a reasonable sum. Canned salmon
-has one advantage over the fresh fish: it does
-not deteriorate, and lose its flavor. Those who
-have tried it say they do not get surfeited with
-canned salmon, although many of the same individuals
-dislike the fresh salmon owing to its
-richness, and on this account rarely eat it.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Patties.</b>&mdash;This is a very nice way
-of serving salmon at luncheon. Open a pound
-can of salmon, drain, add to the small amount of
-salmon liquid sufficient water to make a gill,
-season it with salt and pepper, and, if on hand,
-add a little anchovy paste. Beat up the yolks
-of two eggs with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved
-in a little cold water or milk: add the gill
-of water, place it on the range to become hot
-and thick, whisking it meanwhile; break the
-salmon into pieces, and add to the sauce. When
-quite hot, fill the patty shells with it, and serve.
-A very rich sauce may be made by the addition
-of butter and cream.</p>
-
-<p>The patty shells are made as follows: Roll out
-some very light puff-paste, half an inch thick;
-stamp it in rounds with a three-inch cutter, press
-a small cutter in the middle of each round to
-the depth of quarter of an inch; put the rounds
-on a buttered tin, brush a little beaten egg over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span>
-them, and bake in a quick oven. When done,
-remove the centre, scoop out a little of the inside,
-and the shells are ready for the mixture.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Surprise.</b>&mdash;Boil two quarts of
-potatoes with their jackets on. When done, peel
-and mash them with butter and warm milk.
-Arrange a border of potatoes on a flat, oval dish.
-In the centre of this put a pound of canned or
-cold salmon separated into neat-sized pieces, salt,
-pepper, a very little mace, and a teaspoonful of
-chopped parsley; cover the salmon with a layer
-of raw oysters; add a little oyster-liquor, cover
-the oysters with a thin smooth layer of mashed
-potato, and brush the beaten yolk of egg over
-all. Then make a small hole in the centre, and
-place the dish in an oven hot enough to brown
-the outside quickly.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon à la Créole.</b>&mdash;Scald and put
-three large tomatoes to simmer in very little
-water, until tender: chop up very fine a sweet
-Spanish pepper and quarter of an onion; fry
-these in a little bacon fat; add the tomato, salt,
-and little white pepper. Simmer until reduced
-to a pulp. Open a pound can of salmon; set
-the can in a saucepan half full of hot water, turn
-the salmon out on a dish. When it is quite hot,
-pour the pulp over it, and serve. Canned tomatoes
-may be used instead of fresh tomatoes.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Pie.</b>&mdash;Cut up four boiled potatoes
-into neat pieces; cut half a pound of boiled salt
-pork into dice; divide a pound of canned salmon
-into symmetrical pieces; roll out quarter of
-a pound of puff-paste, cut it into squares, and roll
-each of these into a little ball. Arrange these
-ingredients alternately in a deep yellow dish, season
-with salt and pepper, add hot water or gravy
-to prevent burning, cover the top with paste,
-make a hole in the centre, and bake in a moderate
-oven.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon in Jelly.</b>&mdash;Take one gallon of
-clear soup, and boil it down to a quart. Soak
-a teaspoonful of gelatine in cold water, and add
-to the reduced soup to make sure that it will
-be stiff when cold.</p>
-
-<p>Take a two-quart tin mould, set it on ice, and
-pour enough of the liquid in it to cover the
-bottom. Let this become firm. Cut into slices,
-and then into diamonds, boiled beets, white
-turnips, and cold boiled tongue; dip each into
-the liquid, and place them in the mould in a
-very neat and artistic manner; when they become
-firm, spread over them a layer an inch
-thick, of cream-mashed potato; now add a
-pound of canned salmon, and pour round the
-edges and on top the remainder of the reduced
-soup, and set the mould in a very cold place to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span>
-become firm. When wanted, dip the mould into
-hot water quickly, and turn it out. This is an
-excellent dish for collations, wedding breakfasts,
-etc. The potato must be made rich with
-butter and milk, and beaten to a light consistency
-before being placed in the mould. Any
-other kind of cold fish will answer quite as well
-as salmon for this and other dishes herein
-mentioned.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon Omelet.</b>&mdash;Separate half a pound
-of canned salmon into flakes, season with salt and
-pepper, a little lemon-juice, and add a little of
-the liquid; heat it a little, whip up the eggs
-for an omelet, prepare it as usual, and just before
-completing the fold add the salmon; then
-turn it out on a hot dish.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon, German Style.</b>&mdash;Boil two quarts
-of sauerkraut; drain it, and pile it on a hot
-dish; have ready a pound of canned salmon
-hot; make a hole in the centre of the kraut,
-insert the fish, simmer and season the salmon
-liquid, pour it over the dish, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon à l’Italienne.</b>&mdash;Boil half a pound
-of macaroni in water slightly salted; drain.
-Heat a can of salmon in hot water; turn it out
-on a dish; arrange the macaroni round it; pour
-over the macaroni the contents of a pound
-can of tomato-pulp (hot), sprinkle over this a
-little grated Parmesan cheese, and serve.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon à la Hollandaise.</b>&mdash;Heat a
-pound of canned salmon in the original can;
-turn it out on a hot dish, garnish neatly, and
-pour over it the following sauce: Cream two
-ounces of butter, whisk into it the yolks of
-two beaten eggs, add a little salt and white
-pepper, and half a teaspoonful of strong vinegar;
-put the pan in a larger one containing hot
-water, whisk it until it thickens, and just before
-serving add a little lemon-juice.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salmon, Hunter’s Style.</b>&mdash;One of the
-best dishes I have ever eaten while hunting was
-prepared as follows: Take three one-pound cans
-of salmon (save the liquid), and divide into neat
-pieces; make a dough as for milk biscuits:
-divide half of it into little balls; take one box
-of sardines; put a layer of sliced bacon in the
-bottom of a gallon crock; add a layer of salmon,
-a few dough balls, two sardines, salt, cayenne.
-Continue arranging in alternate layers
-until the ingredients are all used; add a wineglassful
-of vinegar to the salmon liquid, and
-if there is not enough add a little water; cover
-the top with the remainder of the dough, and
-tie one or two thicknesses of white cloth over
-all. Dig a hole deep enough to be lined with
-mud or stones and to receive the crock; build
-a fire in and over it (the smoke will keep off the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>
-mosquitoes). When reduced to coals, scoop
-out the ashes and coals from the hole, cover the
-cloth with mud, set the crock in the hole, and
-cover up with the hot ashes; let it remain three
-hours, and a more satisfactory dish cannot be
-imagined.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Bouillabaisse.</b>&mdash;This celebrated dish was
-immortalized by Thackeray. Put into a frying-pan
-a gill of olive-oil, a clove of garlic minced,
-a tablespoonful of chopped onion, two cloves,
-six peppercorns; when slightly brown, add one
-pound of canned salmon and the salmon liquid
-in the can; add a little salt, a bit of bay leaf,
-three slices of lemon, a pint of tomato pulp, a
-pinch of curry-powder or saffron, a gill of Rhine
-wine, with water enough to cover the fish: simmer
-twenty minutes. Line a deep dish with
-toast, remove from the pan all seasoning in sight,
-pour the contents of the pan on the toast, and
-serve.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="CODFISH">CODFISH.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce.</b>&mdash;The
-only thing that can be urged against this most
-excellent fish is its homely name. Were it not
-so cheap, its good qualities would rapidly find<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>
-favor at all gastronomic entertainments where
-palate-pleasing dishes are appreciated. Put the
-fish into boiling water, slightly salted; add a
-few whole cloves and peppers, and a bit of
-lemon-peel; pull gently on the fins, and when
-they come out easily the fish is done. Arrange
-neatly on a folded napkin, garnish, and serve
-with oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every
-pound of fish, and scald them in a half-pint of
-hot oyster liquor; take out the oysters, and add
-to the liquor, salt, pepper, a bit of mace, and an
-ounce of butter; whip into it a gill of milk,
-containing half of a teaspoonful of flour. Simmer
-a moment; add the oysters, and send to
-table in a sauce-boat.</p>
-
-<p>A four-pound fish should cook in about forty
-minutes.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Codfish Tongues.</b>&mdash;Wash four codfish
-tongues thoroughly in cold water; put them
-on the range in hot water, slightly salted, and
-boil thirty minutes; drain; arrange neatly on
-a folded napkin placed upon a hot dish; garnish
-with parsley and slices of lemon, and send
-to table with cream sauce.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Codfish Steak.</b>&mdash;Select a medium-sized
-fresh codfish, cut it in steaks crosswise of the
-fish about an inch and a half thick; sprinkle a
-little salt over them, and let them stand two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span>
-hours. Cut into dice a pound of salt fat pork,
-fry out all the fat from them, and remove the
-crisp bits of pork; put the codfish steaks in a
-pan of corn-meal, dredge them with it, and,
-when the pork-fat is smoking hot, fry the steaks
-in it to a dark brown color on both sides.
-Squeeze over them a little lemon-juice, add a
-dash of freshly ground pepper, and serve with
-hot, old-fashioned, well buttered johnny-cake.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>New-England Codfish Balls.</b>&mdash;Shred
-the codfish the night before, and soak it over
-night; drain quite dry on towel next day. Mash
-fine one pound of hot boiled potatoes. Take
-an equal amount of codfish, and divide it very
-fine. Mix both together, and add the beaten
-yolks of two eggs, two ounces of melted butter,
-and a saltspoonful of white pepper. Now beat
-the mixture until it is very light, for upon this
-process depends the success or failure of the
-dish. In shaping them together, do not press
-them any more than is absolutely necessary.
-Most cooks press them into cakes so hard
-that it is next to an impossibility to eat them.
-Dredge them lightly with a little flour, and fry
-them like doughnuts in smoking hot fat. When
-properly prepared and cooked they should fairly
-melt in the mouth, which they will do if thoroughly
-beaten and lightly handled.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Baked Cod.</b>&mdash;When purchasing a four-pound
-cod, ask your fish-dealer to send you
-three “codfish-heads;” and as soon as the basket
-comes into the house, rub a little salt on the
-fish, chop the heads into six pieces each, and
-sprinkle a little salt over them. Place them in
-the centre of the baking-pan (to be used as
-supports for the fish), with a gill of water. Set
-the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod.</p>
-
-<p>Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of
-bread to fill the fish; drain off the water, and
-pound the bread to a paste; mix with it two
-tablepoonsfuls of melted butter, two raw eggs, a
-tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, with salt
-and pepper to taste. Put this stuffing inside the
-fish, and sew it up; place the cod in the pan
-with two or three pieces of butter on the upper
-side of the fish, and baste it frequently; when it
-is cooked, lay the fish on a hot platter, and garnish
-with fried oysters if convenient. Add a
-tablespoonful of brown flour to the pan, a wineglass
-of claret; mix, and strain the gravy into a
-sauce-boat. Time to cook, one hour.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Salt Codfish with Cream.</b>&mdash;Soak one
-pound and a half of salt codfish over night.
-Next morning set the fish to simmer for about
-two hours; drain off the water, and strip the fish
-into shreds; place it in a saucepan with a quart<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span>
-of milk and two ounces of butter; mix a tablespoonful
-of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold
-milk, and add to the fish. Let the whole come to
-a boil; remove the dish from the fire, beat up one
-egg to a froth, add it to the fish, stir, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Scrod.</b>&mdash;Small codfish no larger than our
-tomcod are called scrod in Eastern Massachusetts.
-After they have been corned over night,
-they are broiled and fried.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="BROOK_TROUT">BROOK TROUT.</h2>
-
-
-<p>Cultivated trout may be purchased at from
-sixty to seventy-five cents per pound, and wild
-trout from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per
-pound, after April first. There are many house-keepers
-who will not purchase the latter, thinking
-that as they are cheaper, they cannot be so
-good as the more expensive trout. Cultivated
-trout are only trout in name and outside appearance,
-and no more compare in flavor with the
-wild trout than chalk does with cheese. They
-are fattened (not allowed to feed naturally) on
-cheap animal food that destroys all trout flavor;
-and they live in artificial streams or ponds,
-acquiring a peculiar swampy flavor which is
-decidedly objectionable.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span></p>
-
-<p>The wild trout lives in clear running streams,
-fed from never-ending springs; here he finds a
-beautiful supply of food furnished by nature’s
-generous hand, instead of the refuse of the
-butcher furnished to his more aristocratic
-brother. Besides being superior in every way,
-the wild trout is always cheaper.</p>
-
-<p>Shippers of trout often pack their speckled
-beauties in moss, which injures their flavor materially;
-and the housekeeper is obliged to let
-them stand in cold water, slightly salted, to
-extract the flavor of the moss. This is a good
-plan to follow, by the way, when the trout are
-frozen, as nearly all wild trout are in the early
-spring.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Brook Trout, Sportsman Style.</b>&mdash;Clean
-and rinse a quarter-of-a-pound trout in cold
-spring water; dry it in a towel. Cut half a
-pound of salt pork into small pieces; put these
-into a thoroughly clean frying-pan; fry out the
-clear fat, and remove the small pieces of pork.
-Rub a little fine table-salt in the inside of the
-fish, and when the pork-fat is smoking hot, add
-the fish to it; turn it three times before it is
-done. When nicely browned, serve it on a hot
-dish, and send it to the table without adding
-condiments of any kind. Should you be able to
-procure fresh butter, a little may be put on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span>
-fish before it is served, but it must be of
-the very best quality.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Trout.</b>&mdash;The foregoing is a recipe
-for cooking trout immediately after catching
-them. After they are brought to our city markets
-from distant mountain streams, however,
-they are most toothsome when broiled over a
-declining fire, and require a seasoning of salt,
-pepper, and a little lemon-juice mixed with the
-sweetest of sweet butter. Serve with hot plates.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Brook Trout, Baked.</b>&mdash;Trout weighing a
-pound or over are best when served baked,
-though many sportsmen will not listen to this
-proposition. The outside of a large trout is
-almost ruined in broiling before the centre of
-the fish is cooked. Do not split the fish down
-the back. Take half a pint of fine grated bread-crumbs,
-and soak them in a little milk; squeeze
-out the milk; add two ounces of table butter, a
-saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white
-pepper, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and
-the slightest sprig of thyme; add the yolk of
-one raw egg; mix; open the trout just enough
-to clean it properly; remove the gills (leave the
-heads on), fill the cavity with the stuffing, and
-sew it up carefully. Put the fish in a tin, on top
-of it place small bits of butter previously rolled
-in flour, place it in a good oven, and bake with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>
-the back toward the hottest part of the oven.
-The length of time it will take to cook properly
-is from twenty to thirty minutes, very often a
-little longer, for much depends on the temperature
-of the oven.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Brook Trout, Boiled.</b>&mdash;To boil trout
-seems an outrage; but when one receives a
-large quantity of them, and there is danger of
-their spoiling if not immediately used, put four
-small trout properly cleaned into a saucepan,
-cover them with claret, add a slice of lemon,
-two cloves, four whole peppers, the least bit of
-mace, and a heaping saltspoonful of salt. Simmer
-slowly three-quarters of an hour; remove
-the saucepan from the range, and when cold
-take out the fish, put them in a dish, and pour
-the boiled wine over them. Serve at luncheon
-or collations.</p>
-
-<p>The head, tail, and fins of trout should not be
-removed before cooking.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="MISCELLANEOUS">MISCELLANEOUS.</h2>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Catfish, Fried.</b>&mdash;Catfish and waffles is a
-combination dear to the hearts of Philadelphians,
-and the road-houses near that city are celebrated
-for cooking them. Select the fish already cleaned,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span>
-as it is a troublesome job to clean them, and
-pick out the white instead of the red catfish;
-rub a little salt along the backbone on the inside,
-and let the fish stand over night. Next
-day dredge them with corn-meal or flour, and
-fry in a little fat; sprinkle salt and pepper over
-them before serving.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>The Tenderloin Trout.</b>&mdash;Large catfish
-are caught in Southern rivers; and while they are
-fair eating, they are not popular with the whites
-in the vicinity of New Orleans. The restaurant
-people, however, cut the fish into pieces an
-inch square and about four inches long; these
-are dipped in egg, rolled in crumbs, and fried
-and served as tenderloin trout.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fricasseed Eels.</b>&mdash;Cut up three pounds
-of eels into pieces of three inches in length;
-put them into a stewpan, and cover them with
-Rhine wine (or two-thirds water and one-third
-vinegar); add fifteen oysters, two pieces of
-lemon, a bouquet of herbs, one onion quartered,
-six cloves, three stalks celery, a pinch of cayenne,
-pepper and salt to taste. Stew the eels one
-hour; remove them from the dish; strain the
-liquor. Put it back into the stewpan with a
-gill of cream and an ounce of butter rolled in
-flour; simmer gently a few minutes, pour over
-the fish, and serve.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Eel Patties.</b>&mdash;Take three medium-sized
-eels, and cut them up into inch pieces. Put
-them in a stewpan, add salt, and cover them
-with cold water. When the water comes to a
-boil, take them off the fire, wash them in cold
-water, scrape off any fat that may adhere, return
-them to the stewpan with just enough hot water
-to cover them, and add a blade of mace, a bay
-leaf, a few whole peppers, a few sprigs of parsley,
-and one lemon cut into slices. Stew gently
-until the fish will separate from the bone; remove
-the fish from the broth, pick it into small
-pieces, and set them aside; reduce the broth a
-little, strain, and thicken with flour and butter.
-Return the fish to the broth, simmer a moment,
-fill your patties, and serve; make patty-shells as
-directed for oyster patties.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Stewed Eels, Hoboken Turtle Club
-Style.</b>&mdash;Cut into three-inch pieces two pounds
-of medium-sized cleaned eels. Rub the inside of
-each piece with salt. Let stand half an hour,
-then parboil them. Boil an onion in a quart of
-milk, and remove the onion. Drain the eels from
-the water, and add them to the milk. Season
-with half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt
-and pepper, and the slightest suspicion of mace.
-Simmer until the flesh falls from the bones.</p>
-
-<p>Fried eels should be slightly salted before<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span>
-cooking them. Do not cover them with batter,
-but dredge them with just flour enough to absorb
-all moisture, then cover them with boiling
-fat, as for doughnut cooking. Many New England
-families use corn-meal to dredge them with
-instead of flour.</p>
-
-<p>Eels <i>en matelotte</i>, or sailor fashion, are appreciated
-by many. Cut them into three-inch
-pieces, and salt them. Fry an onion brown in a
-little dripping; add half a pint of broth to the
-brown onion, part of a bay leaf, six broken peppercorns,
-four whole cloves, and a gill of claret.
-Add the eels to this, and simmer until thoroughly
-cooked. Remove the eels, put them on a hot
-dish, add a teaspoonful of browned flour to the
-sauce, strain, and pour over the eels.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Pan Bass, Anchovy Butter.</b>&mdash;During
-February, March, and the first part of April,
-there may be found in market a variety of bass
-which much resembles the Oswego bass. They
-come from the Carolinas and Virginia, and are
-excellent eating. Let them stand an hour in
-salt water, then drain and wipe dry, and fry
-them in tried-out salt-pork fat. Serve them
-with a butter made as follows: Mix together a
-teaspoonful of anchovy paste with a tablespoonful
-of sweet butter, and, if not objected to, add
-a few blades of chopped chives.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span></p>
-
-<p>The chive has the flavor peculiar to the onion
-family, but in a mild form. It is cultivated by
-truck gardeners, and may be found on the New
-York vegetable stands as early as January. The
-retail price at the first of the season is ten cents
-a tuft; as it becomes more plentiful, it is offered
-at five cents.</p>
-
-<p>Placed in the kitchen, it grows luxuriantly,&mdash;in
-fact, it grows faster than it can be used by a
-small family. This very useful herb should be
-in the kitchen window of every home where
-soups and salads are rightly appreciated.</p>
-
-<p>The chive grows wild in nearly all of the
-Middle and Eastern States, and the first green
-spot seen in our parks is more than likely to be
-chives. Cows eat it, and their milk has a slight
-garlic flavor. The garlic flavor in milk is decidedly
-objectionable; yet the early Dutch settlers
-planted the chives in the pastures for the cows
-to eat, thereby imparting to the milk this peculiar
-flavor.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fillet of Flounder, Tartar Sauce.</b>&mdash;Cut
-the flesh from the bone lengthwise, and then
-cut each piece into strips an inch wide. Dip
-them in beaten egg. Roll them in cracker-crumbs,
-and fry in hot fat enough to cover them.
-This dish appears on our French bills-of-fare as
-<i>filet de sole</i>. Serve with <i>sauce tartare</i>.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fried Tomcods.</b>&mdash;These delicate, sweet-flavored
-pan-fish are called frost-fish by dealers,
-but the fishermen along the Hudson call them
-“Tommies.” Whatever name they are known
-by, they are delicious morsels when fresh caught.
-Clean them without removing the heads, dry
-them in a napkin, and salt their insides, dredge
-them with a little flour, and fry them crisp in
-hot smoking fat. Put the clean fish into a
-baking-tin. Over each fish place a thin slice
-of bacon, add salt and pepper, and bake them
-twenty minutes in a hot oven.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Salt Codfish.</b>&mdash;Cut half of a
-small codfish into medium-sized square pieces;
-split them in two, and soak them over night
-in cold water. Drain, and dry them in a napkin,
-next morning. Rub a little butter over each
-piece, and broil them. Place them on a hot
-platter, and pour a little melted butter over
-them.</p>
-
-<p>Drawn butter is sometimes served with this
-dish. It should be very smooth looking, and
-have a starchy appearance. Divide three ounces
-of butter into little balls. Dredge them with
-flour. Put one-fourth of them into a saucepan,
-and when they begin to melt, whisk to a smooth
-consistency. Now add one more of the floured
-balls, and whisk thoroughly until incorporated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span>
-with the first. Repeat this process until all are
-used. When smooth and thick, stir in a teaspoonful
-of lemon-juice, and, if liked, a little
-chopped parsley.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Salt Mackerel.</b>&mdash;“I like salt
-mackerel, but it does not agree with me,” is a
-remark often heard in nearly all classes of society.
-Many imagine they can eat cured fish with the
-same degree of recklessness and lack of regard
-for dietetic laws which they often show in eating
-more digestible food. They soon discover,
-however, that something is radically wrong; just
-where the blame rests, is a matter they settle to
-their own satisfaction by declaring that salt mackerel
-was not intended for civilized people, because
-they are unable to eat it without experiencing
-disagreeable after-effects.</p>
-
-<p>Salt mackerel is really wholesome food, but,
-like all cured food, is not so digestible as when
-fresh: it is therefore necessary to restore it as
-near as possible to its original freshness. This
-is done by a thorough soaking in a liberal quantity
-of fresh water. There is no danger of the
-fish becoming too fresh; if it does, it is an easy
-matter to add fresh salt, which is much more
-acceptable than condensed brine.</p>
-
-<p>In selecting salt mackerel, examine them carefully.
-If rusty in appearance reject them,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span> “for
-rust in fish, if I am not mistaken, is as bad as
-rust in steel or rust in bacon.” Large fish are
-likely to be poor and coarse; a medium-sized or
-No. 2 is the most profitable provided the white
-or under part of the fish is fat. After soaking
-thoroughly, rub a little melted butter or olive-oil
-over them, and broil not too close to the fire; do
-not cook them enough to dry up all moisture, as
-they would then be unpalatable. After broiling,
-plunge them into boiling water for a moment to
-swell them,&mdash;this treatment gives the fish the
-appearance of being fat,&mdash;place on a hot plate,
-add a little melted butter, a dash of pepper, and
-finally the juice of half a lemon.</p>
-
-<p>To avoid the unpleasantness referred to, drink
-all liquids first, before eating a mouthful of the
-fish; masticate the food thoroughly and slowly,
-and the result will be surprising. Those who
-eat salt fish alternated with mouthfuls of liquid
-must expect the oily particles to rise up, and
-create a gastronomic disturbance.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fried Porgies with Salt Pork.</b>&mdash;The
-much-abused porgy is one of the sweetest of
-pan-fish. Select four good-sized porgies, and
-clean them, but do not remove the heads. Cut
-into small dice a quarter of a pound of fat salt
-pork, fry out the fat, and when it is very hot fry
-the fish in it. While they are cooking, broil four<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span>
-small thin slices of the pork, and serve by placing
-them on top of the fish. Pork gives a more
-delicate flavor to the fish than bacon.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fish Curries.</b>&mdash;Cold boiled or baked fish
-is simply a luxury when warmed up in a delicious
-curry sauce. This dish may be served at breakfast
-or luncheon. Americans are fast learning
-the usefulness of curry-powders; as yet they demand
-a mild form of curry, and a little flour is
-added to the sauce to tone down the pungency
-of the curry.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>A Plain Fish Curry.</b>&mdash;Fry an onion quite
-brown in a little butter or oil, add a teaspoonful
-of curry-powder and half a pint of hot water.
-Dissolve a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold
-water; when free from lumps add it to the sauce,
-then strain; divide the cold fish into flakes, and
-warm it up in the sauce.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Scallops.</b>&mdash;Wash a quart of
-scallops in cold water, drain, put them in a saucepan,
-and let them simmer gently one hour.
-Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, remove
-husks, and fry a delicate brown; drain from the
-hot butter, and pound to a paste with a clove of
-garlic, the grated rind of a lemon. Mix two teaspoonfuls
-of curry, a little sauce, and an ounce
-of butter, put it in the frying-pan, and add gradually
-one half-pint of the scallop broth and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span>
-almond paste. Now add a pint of hot milk;
-simmer until the liquid is reduced one-third,
-add the scallops, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Crayfish.</b>&mdash;These may be purchased
-by the quart at all seasons. They are
-already boiled. Prepare the curry sauce as
-above described, add the crayfish, and serve
-with rice; over all squeeze the juice of a sweet
-orange.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Eels, with Rice.</b>&mdash;Cut into two-inch
-pieces one medium-sized eel or two small
-ones; put them in a saucepan, and cover with
-boiling water; add a little salt, a piece of lemon-peel,
-and a tablespoonful of vinegar; boil slowly
-one hour, and drain. Cut up a small onion, and
-fry it brown in a little butter; add a pint of
-the water in which the fish was boiled, and a
-teaspoonful of walnut catsup. Mix together
-a teaspoonful of flour with a gill of cold water,
-rub it smooth, and add a teaspoonful of dry curry-powder.
-Mix, and add it to the pan, strain, and
-return to the pan; then add the eels; simmer
-fifteen minutes, and serve surrounded by a border
-of boiled rice.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Shad Roe.</b>&mdash;Fry half an onion
-very brown in a heaping teaspoonful of dripping;
-add a teaspoonful of curry-powder, and a few
-moments later add a gill of hot water; simmer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>
-five minutes, and add a teaspoonful of flour
-dissolved in a little water. When it begins to
-thicken, strain. While preparing the sauce, boil
-two roes in water well salted. When done, place
-them on a hot platter, and pour the sauce over
-them.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Curry of Frogs’ Legs.</b>&mdash;This is an excellent
-dish. Wash one pound of frogs’ legs in cold
-water; brown one-fourth of an onion in oil or
-butter; add a teaspoonful of curry and a pint of
-hot water; pour this in a saucepan, and add the
-frogs; simmer an hour and a half, and drain.
-Mix a teaspoonful each of rice-flour and curry
-to a paste, with the broth; add salt to taste,
-and half a pint of milk. Place on the range, and
-when hot add the frogs. Blanch two dozen sweet
-almonds; rub off the skins, split them, and toss
-them about in hot butter; season with pepper
-and salt; when done squeeze a little lemon-juice
-over them, and send to table on separate dish
-with the curry.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Weakfish.</b>&mdash;When freshly caught,
-this is an excellent fish and well flavored; but
-it loses its flavor when kept on ice more than
-a day, and the flesh becomes soft and spongy.
-In color the weakfish is of a bluish-gray, with
-faint speckled back and sides, belly white, the
-fins yellow. It is in season from May to Octo<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span>ber,
-and is best-flavored in the latest two months
-of that time. Select a medium-sized fish for
-broiling; see that the flesh is firm, the eyes
-bright, and the gills a bright red, and free from a
-soft, flabby appearance. Place the well-cleaned
-whole fish on the table or fish-board, back
-towards you; make an incision close to the
-head, down to the bone; hold the head firmly
-with the left hand, and cut the fish in two lengthwise,
-keeping the knife close to the bone the
-whole length of the fish; remove the bone. (The
-bone and head may be boiled a few hours, seasoned,
-and the broth used in fast-day soups.)
-Cut each piece of fish in two, crosswise; rub on
-a little sweet oil or melted butter; broil the
-outer side first, then the inner side, and serve
-with this side upwards on the hot dish; pour
-over the fish well-made drawn butter (which
-see).</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Baked Whitefish, Bordeaux Sauce.</b>&mdash;Clean
-and stuff the fish. Put it in a baking-pan,
-and add a liberal quantity of butter, previously
-rolled in flour, to the fish. Put in the pan half
-a pint of claret, and bake for an hour. Remove
-the fish, and strain the gravy; add to the latter
-a gill more of claret, a teaspoonful of brown
-flour, and a pinch of cayenne, and serve with
-the fish.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span></p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Halibut, Egg Sauce.</b>&mdash;Select a three-pound
-piece of white halibut, cover it with a
-cloth, and place it in a steamer; set the steamer
-over a pot of fast boiling water, and steam two
-hours; place it on a hot dish, surrounded with
-a border of parsley; and serve with egg-sauce,
-which is made as follows:&mdash;</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Egg Sauce.</b>&mdash;Cream an ounce of butter;
-add to it one tablespoonful of dry flour, a saltspoonful
-of salt, and half a saltspoonful of white
-pepper (black pepper spoils its color). Stir it
-briskly, and add half a pint of hot water. Divide
-an ounce of butter into little balls, roll them in
-flour, and add them one at a time; stir constantly,
-and care should be exercised not to
-allow the sauce to brown or discolor. Chop
-three cold hard-boiled eggs, and add them to
-the sauce; let it heat thoroughly, and serve in a
-boat.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Fried Butterfish.</b>&mdash;These flat, slate-colored
-little fish are excellent when quite fresh;
-and as they are easily cleaned, they are recommended
-to house-keepers. Fry them in tried-out
-salt-pork fat, which gives them a very nice
-flavor.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Shad.</b>&mdash;The secret of having the
-fish juicy, and at the same time properly cooked,
-is to rub a little olive-oil over it before broiling,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span>
-and broil it over a fire free from smoke or flame.
-Charcoal affords the best fire. The sulphurous
-fumes of hard coal injure the flavor of the fish.
-When done, have ready a little sweet butter melted
-and mixed with salt, white pepper (black pepper
-spoils the looks of the fish), half a teaspoonful
-of chopped parsley to two ounces of butter, and
-the juice of half a lemon. Place the fish on a
-hot dish, pour the hot sauce over it, and serve
-with hot plates.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Baked Shad.</b>&mdash;Broiling is, next to planking,
-the best way of cooking this excellent fish; but
-a baked shad is not to be despised. Prepare it
-as follows:&mdash;</p>
-
-<p>Make a stuffing of soaked bread-crumbs, butter,
-pepper, and salt; place it lengthwise in a pan;
-roll walnuts of butter in flour, and put four to
-six of them on top of the fish; fill the space
-around the fish with inch slices of raw potato,
-and bake forty minutes. When done, serve potatoes
-and fish together.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Shad Roe à la Poulette.</b>&mdash;Cover a pair
-of roes with water slightly salted; add a tablespoonful
-of vinegar and a slice of lemon; simmer
-twenty minutes, and drain; put into a saucepan
-an ounce of butter; when it begins to melt, whisk
-it, and add the juice of half a lemon.</p>
-
-<p>Beat up the yolk of one egg with a gill of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>
-cream containing half a teaspoonful of flour
-rubbed free from lumps; whisk this gently into
-the warm butter; keep it quite warm until it
-thickens, but do not boil, or it will curdle. Pour
-it over the shad roes, strew over the top a trifle
-of chopped parsley, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Royans.</b>&mdash;These delicate little fish
-are excellent as whet at dinner-parties, and may
-be served <i>au naturel</i>, or broiled, or served on
-toast. Procure them from the nearest grocer,
-open the can carefully to prevent breaking the
-fish, remove the skin, and broil them over a
-slow fire; arrange them on toast, squeeze a little
-lemon-juice over them, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Sardines.</b>&mdash;When neatly prepared,
-this forms an excellent breakfast or luncheon
-dish.</p>
-
-<p>Remove the sardines from the can without
-breaking them; scrape off the skin, place them
-between double wire broilers, and broil to a
-delicate brown; arrange neatly in a hot dish,
-squeeze a little lemon-juice over them, and serve.
-Orange-juice is very nice with the above dish.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Smelts, Sauce Tartare.</b>&mdash;Thoroughly
-clean half a dozen smelts, split them in
-two, place them on a double wire broiler, and
-broil. Send to table with <i>sauce tartare</i>, which
-is made as follows: Chop together a few sprigs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span>
-of parsley, six capers, one small pickle, a piece of
-onion as large as a bean. Add these to half a
-pint of mayonnaise, mix, and add a teaspoonful
-of French mustard, mix again, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Smelts Fried, Sauce Tartare.</b>&mdash;Clean
-six small smelts, leave on the heads, dip them in
-beaten egg, roll them in fine cracker-dust,
-and fry in very hot fat. Serve with sauce
-tartare.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Whitefish.</b>&mdash;The whitefish is one
-of the best of summer fish, but does not stand
-long transportation very well. See that the flesh
-is firm, and free from flabbiness. Cut the fish
-in two lengthwise, remove the backbone, divide
-each piece in two; brush over it a little sweet
-butter or olive-oil, and broil over a moderate fire
-for ten minutes. Place it in a hot dish, squeeze
-the juice of a lemon over it, add salt and pepper
-and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Garnish
-with tufts of parsley and thin slices of lemon,
-and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Sheeps-head with Drawn Butter.</b>&mdash;The
-Englishman who wrote the extraordinary statement
-that sheeps-head sometimes sold for “four
-or five pounds sterling in New York” may be
-pleased to learn that the price for this excellent
-fish is fifteen to eighteen cents per pound on an
-average, and that the best mode of preparing it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span>
-for table is to boil or steam it, although broiled
-sheeps-head is very good.</p>
-
-<p>Procure a medium-sized fish, clean it thoroughly,
-and rub a little salt over it; wrap it in a
-cloth, and put it in a steamer; place this over
-a pot of fast boiling water, and steam one hour;
-then lay it whole upon a hot side-dish, garnish
-with tufts of parsley and slices of lemon, and
-serve with drawn butter prepared as follows:&mdash;</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Drawn Butter.</b>&mdash;Take four ounces of
-butter, and roll it into small balls; dredge these
-with flour; put one-fourth of them in a saucepan,
-and as they begin to melt whisk them; add
-the remainder, one at a time, until thoroughly
-smooth; while stirring add a tablespoonful of
-lemon-juice and half a teaspoonful of chopped
-parsley; pour into a hot sauce-boat, and serve.</p>
-
-
-<p class="psub"><b>Broiled Sheeps-head.</b>&mdash;Split the fish in
-two lengthwise, and remove the head and bone,
-brush over the fish a liberal quantity of melted
-butter or oil, then broil over a fire free from
-flame or smoke. When done, squeeze the juice
-of a lemon over the fish, then add salt, pepper,
-and a pat of the choicest table butter.</p>
-
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<hr />
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-
-<div class="transnote">
-<h3>Transcriber's Note</h3>
-
-<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Other
-variations in hyphenation, spelling and punctuation remain unchanged.</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="full" />
-<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OYSTERS AND FISH***</p>
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