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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..61a0373 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53525 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53525) diff --git a/old/53525-8.txt b/old/53525-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 487a152..0000000 --- a/old/53525-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2374 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Handbook of Fish Cookery, by Lucy H. Yates - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Handbook of Fish Cookery - How to buy, dress, cook, and eat fish - -Author: Lucy H. Yates - -Release Date: November 13, 2016 [EBook #53525] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A HANDBOOK OF FISH COOKERY *** - - - - -Produced by Tom Cosmas and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - -Transcriber Note - -Emphasized text displayed as _Italics_ and =Bold=. - - -Mrs. Beeton's Famous Cookery Books. - - - =Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management.= 7s. 6d. - - =Mrs. Beeton's Family Cookery and Housekeeping Book.= 5s. - - =Mrs. Beeton's Every Day Cookery and Housekeeping Book.= 3s. 6d. - - =Mrs. Beeton's All About Cookery.= 2s. 6d. - - =Mrs. Beeton's Cookery Book=. 1s. - - =Mrs. Beeton's Englishwoman's Cookery Book.= 6d. - - =Mrs. Beeton's Penny Cookery Book.= 1d. - - - - -_A HANDBOOK OF FISH COOKERY._ - - - - -_BY THE SAME AUTHOR._ - -Price 2s. 6d. - -THE PROFESSION OF COOKERY FROM A FRENCH POINT OF VIEW. - -_With some Economical Practices peculiar to the Nation._ - - -"An excellent practical treatise, well expressed, full of sound -information lucidly conveyed by a writer who really knows her subject -well, and combines fine taste with a real regard for economy."--_The -Times._ - - - - - A HANDBOOK - - OF - - FISH COOKERY - - _HOW TO BUY, DRESS, COOK, AND - EAT FISH_ - - - BY - LUCY H. YATES - - _Author of "The Profession of Cookery from a French - Point of View."_ - - - LONDON - WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED - WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.C. - NEW YORK AND MELBOURNE - 1897 - - - - - CONTENTS. - - -----¤<>¤----- - - PAGE - - INTRODUCTION 1 - - - PART I. - - CHOOSING AND BUYING FISH 7 - - - PART II. - - THE COOKING OF FISH 17 - - - PART III. - - TESTED RECIPES 23 - - - PART IV. - - FISH SAUCES 81 - - - - -_INTRODUCTION._ - - -In spite of a considerable amount of trade grumbling, the best part of -the market is still held by English fish, as a glance at any time over -the names on the crates will show. The foreign importations, though -large, are not nearly so extensive as might be supposed. - -As a rule the north British ports furnish the largest supply; the -southern ports suffer the most from foreign competition. Continental -freightage also is light, and as the foreigner rarely keeps very -closely to the laws of "fence months," he gets fish into the market -when no home-caught of the same kind is to be had. - -If all people, both rich and poor, could be persuaded to eat fish more -freely, they would be benefited both in health and pocket. - -If the _demand_ were greater the _supply_ would be more liberal, more -varied, and also much cheaper. - -At present, although there is much complaining about catches falling -off, many grounds yielding but a poor harvest, yet tons of fish are -annually sent away from the markets for manure. - -The trade is both risky and variable, consequently prices have to be -kept up that the dealer may realise some profit, and for this state of -things _the modern housewife is largely accountable_. - -It is not wholly a question of price, although there is still much to -desire on this point. - -Ignorance, especially with the working-man's wife, will generally be -found to be the cause of the aversion which many housewives have to -the cooking of fish; even in middle and upper class households much -ignorance as to the kinds of fish and the best means of making use of -them prevails. - -The poorer classes still regard fish as "nothing to make a meal of," -and, sad to say, a great many of the poor of our cities will not eat -fish, however cheaply they may get it. They have many advantages of -getting it which those who live in superior neighbourhoods have not. - -Often before the Central Market closes, first-rate cod is to be had -for twopence the pound--a seven-pound cod for a shilling. Plentiful -and wholesome as cod is, it is seldom much thought of by poor people. -Salted, sun-dried cod, is thought beneath notice, although large -quantities are consumed on the continent, and some very dainty dishes -made therefrom. Plaice, too, generally to be had at fourpence the -pound, is but lightly esteemed. - -Humble Londoners care most for smoked fish, "something that has a -grip with it," they say. To meet this demand many adulterations are -practised by the cockney curer. "Haddocks" are often but indifferent -codling. The "Finnan Haddie" was caught in the Scheldt, and Stavanger -herrings are passed off as Yarmouth bloaters. - -Unwholesome common lobsters, winkles, and whelks, are preferred to -good substantial fish, and, as before stated, ignorance of the proper -methods of cooking is most frequently the reason of this. - -Where late dinners, with people of small incomes, are coming more into -favour, it is found an economy, as it is also considered the "correct -thing," to have a course of fish. Indeed, as an economical article of -diet, fish has few rivals. - -Many people who really would enjoy eating it are debarred from doing so -by its being invariably badly cooked, or presented always in the same -monotonous dress. - -Phosphorus being essential for brain food, and as analysis has proved -fish to contain a greater amount than almost any other article of diet, -it is the more valuable still on this account. - -The fish which afford the most nourishment are the kinds which most -resemble meat, as salmon, mackerel, &c.; turbot and halibut, though -strictly belonging to the "lighter" order, are very nourishing on -account of the amount of meat which they bear in proportion to bone. -The whiter kinds of fish are the most easily digestible, as soles or -cod, whiting, &c., and some kinds of river fish, notably perch. - -With the exception of trout--and perhaps pike--fresh-water fish are -less esteemed than they deserve to be. - -Salmon is sometimes called a river fish, though genuinely it is not so, -as, although born in the river, the sea is its home and natural sphere. - -In Parisian restaurants many dainty dishes are prepared from fish -caught in the Seine; and in country places where sea-water fish is -often difficult to obtain, the ponds and rivers will often furnish -excellent substitutes. - -All fresh-water fish--with the exception of trout--is at its best in -winter-time. - -Shell-fish, perfectly harmless in themselves as they may be, exemplify -the saying that "what is one man's meat is another man's poison;" -accordingly, where they are found to disagree they should be strictly -avoided. - -Oysters, the most highly esteemed of shell-fish, are frequently ordered -by the physician when it is desirable to unite great nourishment with -easy digestion, the amount of gluten they contain giving them this -valuable quality. - -Lobsters are popularly considered to be the least harmful next to -oysters, and the flesh of a fresh crab is both delicate and delicious. - -Shrimps, prawns, and crayfish, should properly rank as "relishes"; -they are extremely useful in savoury dishes, either with or without -other fish. - -Cockles are deservedly esteemed by the rich, and they have often staved -off the pressure of starvation from the poor of our coasts. - -The limpet is a great favourite with the Irish, while the periwinkle is -the poor man's luxury, and the clam enjoys high favour in the United -States. - - - - -PART I. - -_CHOOSING AND BUYING FISH._ - - -Before coming to this important part of our subject, we would like to -offer a suggestion (in all courtesy, be it understood) to our friends -the fishmongers. - -Why do they, we would ask, invariably establish themselves on the sunny -side of the road? Surely if any branch of trade requires coolness and -shade it is the fish trade, yet how rare an exception to find one so -situated. Then we would respectfully draw their attention to their way -of handling the fish. Often it receives most unmerciful treatment, -being knocked about on the marble slab with a force quite unnecessary. -All fish suffer more or less, but delicate fish, such as soles, suffer -in this way just as a ripe peach or pear does if subjected to the same -treatment. The same difference can be detected in the bruised part of -fish as in a bruised peach. - -Also a too liberal pouring-on of water is injurious. No doubt the -bright and well-washed fish, surrounded with lumps of ice, look far -more tempting than the boat-load all smeared with blood, yet the fish -would be much better if they did not see fresh water until they are -to be dressed at home. In this matter, however, the fishmonger is to -a large extent ruled by popular opinion, and if the latter forbids -the purchase of fish in their more natural condition, he is perhaps -justified in endeavouring to suit the fancy of his customers. - -In choosing fish care should be taken not to judge too much by first -appearances, although, fortunately, fish, if not fresh, soon tells its -tale. - -If the eyes are dull, or the skin and the scales rub off easily, _avoid -that fish_. If the skin is bright, the flesh firm to the touch when -pressed between the thumb and finger, you may rely upon its being -fresh; stale fish, or that which has been kept long in ice, is always -flabby. - -One safe general direction for choosing fish may be given in few -words, viz., _choose the plump ones_. - -A short fish, thick about the shoulders, is much to be preferred to a -long thin one. Thick soles, or thick turbots, are far preferable to -thin ones. The same with codfish. - -Lobsters and crabs should be chosen by weight, and those of medium size -are best in flavour. - -There are one or two kinds of fish which are positively improved by -being kept a day or two, notably skate and red mullet. - -Mackerel, on the contrary, is a fish than which none spoils more -rapidly. - -The sole holds a first position among flat fish, and is deservedly -esteemed, as its flesh is firm and delicate and very easily digested, -hence its great popularity with the sick. It has also the advantage of -being obtainable all the year round in good condition. The skin of the -back is sometimes dark, sometimes white, varying with the nature of the -ground on which the fish feeds. Soles vary in size from quite little -slips, called "tongues," to large fish weighing eight or nine pounds -per pair. Those in roe are rather insipid in flavour, and are best for -filleting. They vary in price, but are never a _cheap_ fish. - -Halibut is an excellent substitute for turbot, which it rather -resembles in flavour, and is a comparatively cheap fish. It is abundant -in spring and summertime, and always a favourite with Jewish people. -Being a very large fish, it is rarely sold entire. The choice bits are -the flackers over the fins and the pickings about the head. - -A fillet or "steak" is the most profitable portion for general eating. - -Cod is at its best about Christmas time. From the end of January to -March it is less good and not abundant; in May again it is generally -very fine. The best are those which are plump and round at the tail, -the sides having a slightly ribbed appearance, with yellow spots on a -clear skin. - -Large cod are not generally cooked whole, being so much thicker at the -head than at the tail. The head and shoulders, usually sold apart, form -a handsome dish. - -It is a very nourishing fish, valuable in many ways, and if its -"adaptabilities" were more understood it would be more generally -appreciated. - -The salmon has been called the "king of fresh-water fish," yet, as -before remarked, it does not belong to this category. - -The river is its birthplace, it is true, but the sea is its pasture -ground, where it returns periodically to renew its strength. It -inhabits fresh and salt water alternately, spending its summer in the -river and its winter in the sea. Just as the swallow returns again to -the same roof which sheltered it, so the salmon returns again to the -same river. This fact has been taken advantage of to naturalise salmon -in rivers where formerly there were no signs of them. No stranger -salmon cruising along the coast will mistake another river's mouth for -the mouth of its own river. - -The flesh is rich and delicious in flavour, and to be eaten in -perfection it should be dressed as soon as caught; there will then be -found between the flakes a creamy-white substance called "curd," which -is highly esteemed by the epicure. Nevertheless, it is then highly -indigestible; to be perfectly wholesome eating the salmon should be -kept twenty-four hours, then the curd solidifies, and though perhaps -less delicate in flavour, it is richer and far less likely to disagree. - -In season from February to August; it is at its cheapest in July and -August. - -Salmon trout, though resembling salmon in flavour and appearance, are -really not at all the same species. They rarely exceed two to three -pounds in weight--generally they are but three-quarters of a pound. -They are justly regarded as a great delicacy, and are at their best in -spring and early summer. The flesh is sometimes white, sometimes red; -the latter is the most prized. - -When choosing salmon trout examine the inside of the throat through the -gills. If this is very red the flesh will prove to be red, though not -so red as salmon. - -There are two or three kinds of trout: common, sea, and white trout. -Sea trout reaches a good size, white trout never does. River trout are -most delicious and highly esteemed; the most delicate in flavour are -those which weigh from three-quarters to one pound. - -Trout, which is in season from May to September, is in perfection in -June. - -Carp and tench are pond rather than river fish, and both have a great -fondness for burying themselves in mud, and owing to this the flesh -has often a slight muddy taste; for this reason the fish should lie in -strong salt and water for a few hours, then be well cleansed in clear -spring water. - -Both are at their best in the winter months. The tench, though a -smaller fish, is richer and more delicate than the carp. They are -useful fish to families residing in the country. - -Although the pike attains to a considerable size in England, it is -small in comparison with its brethren found in Russian and Lapland -waters. Indeed it more truly deserves to be called a Russian fish, so -much more abundant and popular is it there. In colour the skin is a -pale olive-grey, with several yellowish spots on the sides, and the -mouth is furnished with a prodigious number of teeth, which has earned -for it the name of "fresh-water shark." - -It was at one time a very popular article of food, and is still -considered a good fish for the table. In some countries the fish is -salted and dried, and the roe made into caviare. - -The perch, which is one of the commonest of our fresh-water fish, is -also one of the best. It is met with in almost all lakes and rivers in -temperate regions. When full-grown it is a large fish, although one -weighing a pound is thought a good size, and one of three pounds very -large. The flesh is white, firm, of a good flavour, and easily digested. - -Perch are so tenacious of life, they may be carried fifty miles and yet -survive the journey. - -Best used as soon as caught, they are also better for being crimped as -soon as they leave the water. Their season is from June to February. - -Perhaps the most commonly used fish is the herring. Shoals of herring -visit the British Islands from the end of May till October, and even -occasionally during the winter months. In the beginning of the season -the fish is rather oily, and often found to be indigestible on that -account, but after the first few weeks this disappears, and then it -becomes both digestible and nourishing. - -In choosing herrings take care that they feel firm, and have bright -eyes and scales. - -Sprats closely resemble herrings in appearance and flavour, only they -are but a third of the size of the latter. They are very abundant on -the North British coasts, and in Edinburgh and Glasgow are sold by -measure. Their best season is the winter time, and their freshness may -be judged by their silvery appearance--or otherwise. - -The highly esteemed smelt is a most delicate fish. When fresh it -possesses an odour like a freshly-cut cucumber, but this perfume passes -away twelve hours after it has been caught. - -The Dutch fisheries furnish very fine smelts, and the baskets full -of bright silvery little bodies look very tempting in the wholesale -market. These are never what may be called cheap fish. In season from -November to May. Smelts which have been split and dried are called -sparlings. - -Another fish which is cheap and plentiful in the winter months is the -haddock. They seldom weigh more than from three to four pounds, and -the largest are considered the best. They should be gutted as soon as -possible, and hung up to dry with salt inside them. Scotch haddock have -the highest reputation. - -Among lesser known fish are the gurnet, dory, and ling. All of them -are excellent eating. The dory resembles the turbot in flavour, and the -gurnet has firm white flesh, of agreeable taste. In the early spring -months ling is captured in large quantities off the Orkney and Shetland -Isles. - -Skate and plaice are both less thought of in England than they deserve -to be; in France they are better appreciated. Skate improves by being -hung up for a day before using. Young skate are called "maids," and -their flesh is tender and delicate. - -Plaice is in good condition when the body is thick and firm, the eyes -bright, and the pale side tinged with pink. - -Hake, or "white salmon," is a west-country fish, common in Devonshire. -In season in the autumn months. - -Eels and lampreys, very rich, and not over wholesome, are mostly food -for the epicure. They are useful in cookery where a succulent dish is -required. The lamprey is but little met with in the present day. - - - - -PART II. - -_THE COOKING OF FISH._ - - -The recipes given in this part have been gleaned from reliable sources. -Many of them are from French cooks, and are strictly in accordance with -the methods in use in the best "cuisines," where the cooking of fish -receives great care and attention. - -For greater convenience in reference the recipes for preparing the -different kinds of fish are all classed under the name of each kind, -and the names given in alphabetical order. - -Perhaps the only ways of properly cooking fish are baking and broiling, -yet these are precisely the ways least practised--out of France. -Boiling and frying have hitherto held too great a monopoly in our -methods. In the following pages, while giving the latter modes their -due share of attention, we beg to call for special notice to be given -to the examples for _broiling_, &c., as they may be relied upon to -bring about a satisfactory result if carefully followed. - -To begin with a few general directions: - -In broiling a perfectly clear fire is _absolutely indispensable_; more -so in the case of fish than when intending to cook steak or chops. A -shovel-full of good cinders, slightly wetted, and given sufficient time -to become red-hot, will generally ensure a good surface heat, but a -charcoal "braisière" is _par-excellence_ the fire for this purpose, and -no French housewife considers her kitchen complete without this little -contrivance. A little charcoal sprinkled over some hot coals is not a -bad substitute for it. - -A special gridiron should be kept for fish only. After using, let it be -thoroughly washed and dried, and before using again rub the bars over -with a little oil; fish is more easily marked, and apt to stick sooner -than meat. - -If the gridiron is not a double one, use a pair of sugar-tongs with -which to turn the fish over; beware of sticking a fork into it. There -can be no doubt that grilling brings out a flavour which nothing else -will. - -What can surpass a fresh mackerel, grilled after being split open and -boned? - -An important point to bear in mind in this method of cookery is, to -_keep in the flavour_. A slice of grilled salmon will taste far nicer -if the slice has been wrapped in buttered paper; but cooking anything -in paper requires the greatest care, as should there be the least flare -the paper will catch fire,--what is required is a fierce heat. - -When baking fish _en papillot_, that is wrapped in buttered paper, -the chief thing to bear in mind is not to spare the butter. This, one -of the most delicate and delicious ways of cooking fish, is apt to be -entirely spoilt, because only a little dab of butter is allowed. When -fish has been cooked in paper it should be sent to table just as it is, -paper and all. Always use plain white note paper, never printed. - -In boiling fish a very common fault is omitting to put sufficient salt -into the water. In the case of large fish, salt should be added in the -proportion of half a pound to a gallon of water; for smaller fish, a -proportion of a quarter-pound to the gallon is sufficient. - -It is now generally thought best to place fish in nearly boiling water, -then allow it to come gently to the boiling point again, this keeps -in the flavour on the same principle as the boiling of meat. The time -allowed depends entirely on the size of the fish, but when the flesh -shows signs of being just able to be separated from the bone, it is -amply done. - -Experience is the only safe guide. - -To preserve the _whiteness_ of white fish, it is wise to rub them over -with lemon-juice before boiling. - -One method of boiling fish, when it is intended for eating cold, which -is much approved of on the Continent, is to do it in "court-bouillon," -and if fresh-water fish be cooked this way it is relieved of much of -its insipidity. - -One part of vinegar, one part of red wine, to four parts of water, for -the "bouillon." To two quarts of the liquor put an ounce of salt, half -an ounce of pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, a sliced onion and a -carrot. Sometimes a small piece of salt bacon is also added. Let these -all boil together for some time, then strain the liquor and keep in a -stone jar. It will keep a long time if occasionally re-boiled. - -The fish should be well covered with the liquid when laid in the -fish-kettle, and allowed to boil gradually. - -To fry fish successfully it should be literally _boiled_ in fat. This -cannot be done over a slow or smoky fire, neither can it be done unless -an abundance of fat be allowed. It is not an extravagant method, even -if the pan be a large one, and it takes two or three pounds to fill it. -If carefully poured into a basin containing boiling water after the -fish has been cooked, the loose breadcrumbs and other particles will -fall to the bottom, and the fat form a clear white crust. When due care -is exercised there is no reason why the same fat should not be used -fifty times over. - -Let it be quite boiling when the fish is put in. This may be known -by its perfect stillness and the faint blue vapour which will rise -from it. When the fish has been washed and carefully dried, flour it -before dipping into beaten egg, and use brown raspings in preference to -breadcrumbs. - -Lay a small piece of blotting-paper at the bottom of the dish to -absorb all grease. - -Various recipes for _baking_ fish are given in the following pages. -Perhaps one of the nicest ways of doing fish in the oven is _au -gratin_. Briefly described, this consists of a layer of mixed herbs and -breadcrumbs laid first at the bottom of a well-buttered dish, the fish -laid on this, then the same ingredients with seasoning and more butter -over it. Very often a glass of wine or vinegar is added. - -Anything cooked _au gratin_ must always come to table in the dish -in which it was cooked, hence the gratin-dish, sometimes of silver, -sometimes of polished tin or fire-proof china, is another kitchen -requisite almost indispensable. - -When intending to use salted fish for any dish it should always be -allowed to lie in water at least twenty-four hours previously, and the -water should be changed frequently; then drain and dry thoroughly. - - - - -PART III. - -_TESTED RECIPES._ - - -=Anchovies= are the only fish which come under this letter. They are -usually bought in pickle from grocers and oilmen, and ought to soak -in cold water before they are used. The small, plump ones are the -best--the pickle is red, the scales of the fish white. If cut into -fillets and added to sliced cucumber, hard-boiled egg, also sliced, -minced parsley and herbs, and dressed with the usual salad dressing, -they form an acceptable variety in the salad series. - - -=Anchovies, Essence of= (home-made), is made by beating to a paste -half-a-pound of anchovies, bones also, then adding a pint of raisin -wine to the paste and boiling both together until it is dissolved. For -seasoning add a very small quantity of cayenne pepper, two or three -Jamaica peppercorns and three or four shallots. Home-made essence is -greatly superior in flavour to that which can be bought. - - -=Anchovy Butter= is prepared by pounding to a paste half-a-pound of -anchovies with half that weight of butter. A pinch of cayenne is an -improvement. This butter is especially useful for flavouring sauces -for meat and fish, and if kept in very small pots, closely covered, -it will remain good for some time. _Anchovy Paste_, so much liked for -sandwiches, is made in the same way. - - -=Anchovy Sauce.=--Two ounces of butter melted, two tablespoonfuls of -flour mixed smoothly with it, a tumblerful of boiling water. When this -has boiled stir in gradually three teaspoonfuls of the essence of -anchovies, and add the juice of half a lemon; let all boil once more, -then pour into a tureen. - - -=Barbel.=--This is but a poor fish, being woolly and rather -flavourless. It may be made palatable by cutting in pieces, then -steeping in a marinade of oil, pepper and salt, for half an hour, after -which broil the pieces over the fire, and serve with _maître d'hôtel_ -butter. - - -=Bloaters.=--The smoked bloaters should be scalded with boiling water, -then dried. The bones can often be drawn off after this, before -cooking. They may either be broiled over the fire for a moment, or -cooked in the oven with a morsel of butter. - -Before broiling fresh bloaters split them open down the middle, remove -the backbone and cleanse them. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and drop -a morsel of butter on each before bringing to table. - - -=Bream= is a handsome, although not a delicate fish. It must be -thoroughly cleansed and washed out with vinegar. Split it open and -remove the bone, but do not scale it. It is best broiled, but is -excellent if stuffed with a little forcemeat, then baked in the oven -for twenty minutes. Melted butter, caper sauce, or anchovy sauce, must -accompany it to table. - - -=Brill.=--This fish has an excellent reputation, resembling turbot -so nearly; it may be cooked in almost every way recommended for the -latter. Thick brill are the best, and a yellowish hue in the flesh -denotes its freshness. Lay it in salted water for a few minutes, then -dry it and rub with the juice of a lemon. When boiling brill allow -plenty of salt in the water, and half a teacupful of lemon juice. Let -it simmer gently after reaching boiling point till just tender through. -Lay on a clean serviette, the white side uppermost, garnish with cut -lemon and parsley, also a sprinkling of lobster coral. - - -=Carp, Baked.=--After washing and scaling, remove the inside of the -carp, squeeze over it the juice of one or two lemons and let it lie -thus for an hour. Next place it in a baking tin, sprinkle some minced -parsley and shallots over it, also pepper and salt, then pour a little -oiled butter over all. Cover with white paper and bake for upwards of -forty minutes--gently. Make a little thick melted butter, enrich it -further with a spoonful of cream, stir in the juice of half a lemon, -and more salt and pepper--cayenne if liked. Lift the carp on to a dish, -pour this sauce over it, garnish with chopped gherkins and lobster -coral. - - -=Carp, Fried.=--Cut the fish into fillets after having thoroughly -cleansed it. Roll each fillet in flour seasoned with salt and cayenne. -Fry in a depth of boiling fat, serve with anchovy sauce. - - -=Carp, Grilled.=--Only very small carp can be cooked this way, and they -should be wrapped in buttered papers, after having been washed and -emptied. Serve with a piquant sauce of minced herbs, lemon-juice and -butter. - - -=Carp, Stewed.=--Carp are excellent treated this way if rather large. -After washing in vinegar and water, cut the fish into fair-sized -pieces, roll each piece in seasoned flour, then lay in a covered -stewpan, and pour a tumblerful of white wine over them. Allow nearly -an hour for the cooking, then when done remove the pieces of fish -carefully on to a dish, stir in a tablespoonful of grated horseradish, -a little cream, and the beaten yolk of an egg into the sauce, and pour -it over the carp. - -If boiled in "court-bouillon," carp is equally good for eating cold. - - -=Caveach Fish.=--Clean some large fish, such as cod or salmon, then -cut them into slices. Rub each slice with salt, pepper and spice, and -fry in boiling fat till lightly browned. Let them drain and get quite -cold, then lay in deep jars. Boil some vinegar with a few shallots, -peppercorns, a bay leaf and blade of mace; when this is cold fill the -jars nearly full with this, pour a little salad oil on the top and -cover closely. They will keep for months, and when required the slices -are lifted out, placed in the centre of a dish with dressed salad round -them. - - -=Clams.=--Clams, which are a species of cockle, were declared by the -great Soyer to be superior to the oyster in flavour. They are very nice -if fried, after dipping into beaten egg and breadcrumbs. In America -they are stewed. Put into a stewpan with a little water, they are -boiled for a few minutes, then seasoned with pepper and salt. - - -=Cockles.=--Cockles should be roasted on a tin laid on the top of a -stove; they are eaten whilst hot with bread and butter. They require to -be well washed, and the shells scrubbed with a brush. - - -=Cod, Baked.=--Take a piece weighing about three pounds out of the -middle of a large fish. Make a simple forcemeat of breadcrumbs, minced -parsley, thyme, seasoning, and the yolk of an egg; put this inside the -fish and sew it up. Place in a baking-dish, and surround with a carrot -sliced, and also a turnip and small onion. Pour a spoonful of vinegar -over, and place two or three lumps of butter on the top; bake for -twenty minutes. Remove the vegetables, but serve the liquor with the -fish instead of sauce. - - -=Cod, Fried à la Maître d'Hôtel.=--Take two or three slices of cod -about an inch and a half in thickness, let them lie in salt water for -half an hour, then drain and dry them. Cover with seasoned flour, and -fry in a quantity of boiling fat for a few minutes. Pile in pyramid -form on a hot dish, pouring the following sauce round them: two -tablespoonsful of fresh green parsley chopped small, two ounces of -butter, half an ounce of flour, a little salt, pepper, and a spoonful -of vinegar; add a little water if it thickens too much. Mix the -ingredients well, let them boil up once, then serve. - - -=Cod, à la Crème.=--The remains of boiled cod will do excellently -well for this, or if fresh fish is used it must be first boiled till -tender, then broken into flakes, all skin and bone removed. Into a -saucepan put a pint of milk with a teaspoonful of salt and the rind -of a lemon. Let this boil once, then pour off into a basin. In the -saucepan melt an ounce of butter and stir in smoothly an ounce of -flour, add a pinch of cayenne pepper, then the milk, and boil all -together until thick. Put in the flakes of cod to heat through, then -pour all on to a hot dish, garnish with tufts of parsley, and pass -round strips of toasted bread to eat with it. - - -=Cod, Curried.=--Take the remains of cold boiled cod broken into -flakes, fry them a moment in butter. Lay them aside on a hot plate and -prepare the curry. For this put an ounce of butter into a saucepan -and slice into it two shallots and one small apple. When these have -frizzled brown stir in a tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful -of curry powder, the same of salt, and a pinch of cayenne pepper, and -lastly a teacupful of stock. Let this boil a few minutes, then put in -the cod to warm up, and serve quickly. A wall of boiled rice round the -edge of the dish is an improvement. - - -=Cod, Salted, with Parsnips.=--Take a couple of pounds of salted cod, -let it soak for twenty-four hours, then drain, and pouring fresh cold -water over it let it heat through gradually. It should simmer until -tender, but must not boil, or it will become hard. Drain again, lay on -a hot dish, garnish with boiled parsnips cut into lengths, and cover -all with egg sauce, made as follows: half a pint of milk thickened with -flour, a small bit of butter, salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and -two hard-boiled eggs chopped small and stirred in. Garnish the dish -with parsley. - - -=Cod, Salted, en Mousse.=--Soak and cook the cod as in the previous -recipe, then drain and break into flakes. Frizzle a slice of a Spanish -onion in a small quantity of butter, but do not brown it. Scald the -soft part of a slice of white bread, break it with a fork, then add -to the onion, and at the same time add gradually a cupful of new -milk. Continue to beat until all is quite smooth, sprinkle with salt -and pepper, then add the flakes of cod, still continuing to beat. If -becoming too stiff add more milk. When all is light and like a froth, -pour on to a dish and dot small bits of fried or toasted crusts about -the surface. - - -=Cod, Head and Shoulders Boiled.=--A portion or the whole of a large -fish, when intended for boiling, should be previously crimped, when -it should receive some deep cuts as far as the bone on both sides. -Afterwards it should lie in vinegar and water for half an hour. It -should be plunged at once into boiling water, then allowed to simmer -till just tender. Drain, and serve on a white d'oyley, garnished with -lemon and parsley. Crimping renders the flesh firmer, and makes it -easier both to cook and to serve. - - -=Crab.=--The crabs which have a rough shell and claws are the best. -When choosing one shake it well; if it rattle it is sure to prove -watery. The shell should be of a bright red, and the eyes look clear. -In picking out the meat from the shell and claws leave out the part -near the head, which is not fit to be eaten. - - -=Crab, Hot Buttered.=--Pick the meat from the shell of a crab, mix with -half its quantity of breadcrumbs, a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, -a spoonful of salad oil and the same of vinegar. Clean the empty -shell, then refill it with this mixture, sprinkle more crumbs over the -top, then a nob of butter, and bake for nearly ten minutes. To eat with -hot dry toast. - - -=Crab, Salad.=--Pick the meat from the shell into flakes, make a pile -in the centre of a dish, leaving the claws on the top; surround with -shred lettuce and watercress, and pour a simple salad dressing over all. - - -=Crab Soup, or Potage Bisque.=--This is most delicious and delicate. -Choose a nice heavy crab, pick out the meat from the claws into shreds. -The soft meat from the inside of the body is pounded in a mortar with -half its quantity of boiled rice; this is thinned a little with some -clear stock, then passed through a colander. Put this into a stewpan -with sufficient stock to make the required quantity (veal stock is -preferable), add a cupful of thickened cream, salt to taste, and a -little cayenne pepper, let it boil once only, then take from the fire -and add the shredded meat from the claws. A little lobster butter -stirred in will make it a richer colour. - -Make potage from lobster or crayfish in exactly the same manner. The -result will be almost as satisfactory. - - -=Crayfish.=--Crayfish resemble lobsters in flavour, but they are -smaller, and the flesh is more delicate. Those which are red under the -claws are the best. Wash them well, and boil in salt water for ten -minutes, after which they will become a bright red. Drain well, then -pile in pyramid form, and garnish with parsley. - -A pretty dish may be made from them by preparing a clear savoury jelly, -and arranging the crayfish in a fancy mould--minus the tails--filling -in all spaces with the jelly. - - -=Crayfish, as a Breakfast Relish.=--Remove the tails from a pint of -crayfish, put the bodies to simmer gently in a saucepan with an ounce -of butter, a teacupful of water, a spoonful of vinegar, grate of -nutmeg, and a little salt and pepper. Simmer for ten minutes, thicken -with flour, and pour over a slice of toast. - -Crayfish may also be potted like shrimps. - - -=Dabs.=--These insignificant little fish are caught in the mouths of -rivers near the sea. They are nice if fried, but more tasty if wrapped -in buttered paper and baked for fifteen minutes. Send to table with -sliced lemon. - - -=Dace.=--This fish scarcely repays the trouble of cooking, and is -usually only enjoyed by the angler who has caught it. It may be either -fried or boiled. A little sharp sauce with lemon juice and mustard are -almost necessary accompaniments. - - -=Dory.=--Although by no means a handsome fish, yet the dory has a -flavour which makes it excellent eating. It is best boiled, or rather -_simmered_, after it has boiled once, twenty minutes for a fair-sized -fish. Serve on a napkin, garnished with parsley. Anchovy, shrimp, or -caper sauce, are all suitable for serving with boiled dory. - - -=Eels, en Matelote.=--Skin and clean about two pounds of eels, divide -into pieces of two inches long, let them lie in salt water while some -onions are being fried in butter. When the onions have browned, stir in -flour to absorb all the butter, then a cupful of stock and the same of -red wine, a few mushrooms, pepper and salt, and a pinch of herbs. Stew -the eels in this gravy until thoroughly tender, about forty minutes. -Serve altogether. - - -=Eels, Boiled, for Invalids.=--When the skin has been drawn off the -eel, and it has lain in salt water to cleanse it, it should be placed -before a clear fire for ten minutes to draw out the oil. Wash again in -warm water, and set to boil in a saucepan with a bunch of parsley and -spoonful of salt. When tender take it out, divide into lengths, thicken -a small quantity of the broth, add cream and chopped parsley, and pour -over the eel. - - -=Findon, or "Finnan," Haddocks.=--The Findon haddock, so highly -esteemed for its delicate flavour, may be distinguished by its odour -and creamy yellow colour. The skin should be stripped off, and the fish -broiled quickly over a clear fire. Rub butter over it before bringing -to table. - - -=Flounders.=--Flounders may be boiled, baked, fried, or stewed. As they -are apt to have a slight muddy flavour, they should lie in salt water -for a while. Perhaps the nicest way of cooking them is to dip them into -beaten egg, cover with raspings, and boil them in fat. - -Flounders may also be done _au gratin_, by laying the fish (neatly -trimmed) on a bed of chopped shallots and parsley, breadcrumbs and -butter, covering them with the same, then adding a glass of white wine, -and baking for twenty minutes. Allow at least one for each person. - - -=Gurnet.=--The head of the gurnet is large in comparison with the rest -of the body. It is apt to be a dirty fish, and needs very thorough -cleansing. The gills should be cut off. Perhaps the best way of cooking -it is to remove the head and the inside, stuff it with a forcemeat, sew -the body up and lay it in a deep tin, covering with a slice or two of -salt fat. Bake for half an hour, then remove on to a hot dish, and pour -_maître d'hôtel_ butter over it. - - -=Haddock, Broiled.=--Draw and clean the haddock very thoroughly, wiping -it perfectly dry. Dredge with flour, then pour a little salad oil over -it. Lay on the gridiron and broil quickly. When brown and crisp it is -done. Serve with anchovy sauce. - - -=Haddock, Baked.=--Empty and wash the fish, scaling it carefully; let -it lie in vinegar for fifteen minutes, then dry it, dredge with flour, -cover with beaten egg, then with breadcrumbs, and lay in a greased -baking-dish. Pour melted butter over it, and bake about twenty minutes. -The gravy which comes from the fish may be seasoned and sent to table -with it. Garnish with cut lemons. - - -=Haddock, Curried.=--Choose small haddocks for this purpose. Split -them open, remove bones and the head, divide into convenient-sized -pieces. Dip each piece into seasoned flour and fry till crisp and -brown. Prepare a curry sauce by frizzling a small onion and an apple -in butter, thickening with flour, adding seasoning and a little curry -powder and clear stock to make the requisite quantity. Put the fish -into this sauce to heat through, then pile in the centre of a dish and -pour the sauce over. Garnish with rice. - - -=Halibut.=--Being very large fish, perhaps the most satisfactory way of -dealing with halibut is to cut them into steaks, viz., slices across -the fish of any thickness desired. They may be either broiled or fried. -When broiling, sprinkle them with seasoning, and let them lie in salad -oil for a few minutes, then drain and broil quickly over a bright fire. -Lay on a hot dish, squeeze lemon juice over, and sprinkle with chopped -parsley. - -For frying, the steaks may be either dredged with flour, or dipped in -egg and breadcrumbs, then fried in a shallow depth of fat till lightly -brown. Drain on blotting paper, and send shrimp or anchovy sauce to -table with them. - -Boiling is the least satisfactory way of cooking halibut, but if it be -chosen, have the fish in one thick piece. Put into boiling water, and -simmer gently until the fish shows signs of parting from the bone. - - -=Halibut Pie.=--Take a piece of the middle of the fish, remove all -skin, and cut into pieces an inch square. Roll each piece in a mixture -of salt, pepper, and breadcrumbs, place in a pie-dish with lumps of -butter at the top. Pour a glass of white wine over. Cover with a -"short" crust, and when this has baked until well brown, the fish also -will be done. - - -=Herrings, Boiled.=--Few fish are more delicious than fresh herrings -boiled. Wash, scale, and empty them very particularly. Souse them -with vinegar, then drop into boiling salted water, simmer for about -ten minutes, and lift them out the moment they are done. Drain them, -arrange nicely on a clean napkin, garnish with parsley and horseradish, -and serve parsley sauce with them. - - -=Herrings, Broiled.=--Let them lie in salt overnight, wash them, empty, -and split them open. Dry thoroughly, and dredge a little flour over -them. Lay on an oiled gridiron, broil on both sides. Lay each one -separately on a hot plate, and place a morsel of butter on the top. -Then pour the following sauce over them: a tablespoonful of chopped -parsley, the same of minced herbs, and a "suspicion" of onion, same -of butter, a teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed, a wineglassful of -vinegar; boil altogether for a moment. - - -=Herrings, Pickled= (to eat cold).--Scale and clean the herrings -carefully, split them open and take out the backbone. Sprinkle with -salt and pepper after laying in a deep dish. Cover with vinegar and -water. Bake till tender through. - - -=Herrings, Pickled= (French mode).--Scale and clean the herrings, empty -without splitting them. Cut off the heads, and put the fish into an -earthern jar, strew salt liberally over them; let them lie twenty-four -hours. Drain them and place them in an enamelled saucepan with a dozen -peppercorns, a bay-leaf or two, and an onion with a clove. Cover with -cold vinegar. Let them come to boiling point, and boil two minutes -only. Stand aside until quite cold, when they may be placed in a -covered jar. They will keep good for some time. - - -=Lampreys, Stewed.=--Rub the lamprey well with salt, and wash it in -water (warm) to get rid of the slime. Cut off the head, tail, and -gills, empty it, then cut into pieces three inches long. Slice three -or four onions into the bottom of a stewpan, dip each piece of lamprey -into flour, and lay over the onions. Add next a dozen mushrooms, a -tablespoonful of chopped parsley, grated lemon-rind and a little -juice, pepper, and salt. A glassful of red wine and sufficient stock to -cover the whole, replace the lid, and stew gently for two hours. Serve -altogether. - - -=Ling, Baked.=--Cleanse and empty the fish, cut it into thick slices, -removing the head and tail. Dredge the slices with flour, and sprinkle -with salt and pepper. Lay them in a baking-dish, and pour some melted -butter over them. Bake for twenty minutes, place the slices of fish on -a hot dish, then add a cupful of cream and a small tinful of button -mushrooms to the butter, make thoroughly hot and pour over the fish -just before bringing to table. - -Or, the slices of ling may be dipped into beaten egg, covered with -raspings, and fried in hot fat, a _sauce rémoulade_ being brought to -table with them. - - -=Lobster, à la Crème.=--Pick the meat from a fresh lobster without -breaking the shell; cut it into dice. Put into an enamelled saucepan -with a mixed teaspoonful of salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a glassful of -white wine, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and an ounce of butter rolled -in flour. Simmer gently for ten minutes, stirring all the time. Then -stir in two tablespoonfuls of thickened cream. Pour the mixture into -the shell of the lobster, cover the top with breadcrumbs, brown quickly -in the oven, then set the shell on a folded napkin, and garnish with -parsley. - - -=Lobster Cutlets.=--A large lobster is required for these. Boil for -five minutes, then crack the shell and take out the meat as whole as -possible. Cut this across in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness. -Dip each slice into beaten egg and breadcrumbs, sprinkle with salt -and pepper, and fry in fat for about five minutes. Make a small mound -of whipped potato for the centre of a dish, arrange the cutlets round -this, and send oyster sauce to table with them. - - -=Lobster Patties.=--Boil a lobster for fifteen minutes. Crack it open -and pick the meat out into flakes. Put the flakes into an enamelled -saucepan with an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of cream, same of -white stock, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, a little -seasoning also, and a few dry breadcrumbs. Boil up for a moment. Line -some patty-pans with good puff paste not rolled too thinly, place a -morsel of crumb of bread in the middle before putting on the top crust; -bake the patties a bright brown, lift off the top crust, take out the -bread, fill with the hot mixture, and replace the cover. Serve very hot. - - -=Lobster Salad.=--For this the lobster is required very sweet and -fresh; it should have been boiled about twenty minutes and then have -become quite cold. Crack the shell and remove the meat as whole as -possible, saving the coral for garnishing. Divide the meat into small -neat pieces, seasoning each with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Take two -lettuces with firm, white hearts, wipe them clean with a cloth. They -must be crisp and perfectly dry. Place first a layer of shred lettuce -at the bottom of a bowl, then a layer of seasoned lobster; alternate -till the stock is exhausted. Pour the following dressing over all at -the last moment, and sprinkle the coral over the surface. A fanciful -outer edge may be made of sliced eggs and beetroot, or nasturtium -flowers, radishes set in parsley, &c. - -_Dressing_.--The yolks of two eggs beaten until thick, a saltspoonful -of salt, half of pepper, same of made mustard. Beat in slowly half a -pint of oil and two spoonsful of vinegar. - - -=Lobster Butter, and Sauce.=--The spawn and coral of a freshly-boiled -hen lobster, pounded together in a mortar with twice their quantity of -fresh butter and a spice of cayenne pepper, makes lobster butter. It -should be of a bright red colour. Keep in small pots well covered, and -in a cool place. - -For the sauce, make some good plain melted butter, pick out a few -flakes of the white meat of a lobster, then stir in a spoonful of -the lobster butter. Do not boil it after this, or the colour will be -spoilt. The juice of a lemon may be added if liked. - - -=Mackerel, Broiled.=--For a perfectly fresh, small, plump mackerel, -this is _the_ mode of cooking _par excellence_. - -Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and dry them first with a cloth, then by -hanging up in the open air. Split them open flat and carefully remove -the backbone. Smear them with salad oil, sprinkle them with salt and -pepper, wrap each one in a fold of buttered note-paper, and lay on the -gridiron. Broil carefully over a clear _red_ fire for twenty minutes, -turning occasionally. They may be broiled without the paper, in which -case fifteen minutes will be more than long enough, but will taste less -delicate and be less easily digested. Lay on a hot dish, cover closely, -and serve with or without _maître d'hôtel_ butter. - - -=Mackerel, Baked.=--Large mackerel are preferable for this mode. -After cleaning and taking out the roes, fill with the following -forcemeat:--Three ounces of breadcrumbs, an ounce of finely-shred beef -suet, the same of chopped parsley, a pinch of savoury herbs, minced -chives, and pepper and salt. Bind the mixture with a beaten egg. When -the fish has been filled, sew the sides together with strong thread, -lay it on a baking dish, dredge a little flour over it, and pour over -either some melted butter or clarified fat. Bake twenty minutes. Serve -with the same butter to the which some chopped parsley has been added, -or with a _sauce piquante_. - - -=Mackerel, Boiled.=--Wash and empty them without splitting them more -than can be helped. Lay them in _hot_ water with plenty of salt. Let -the water come to a boil, then draw aside and simmer them till the skin -shows signs of breaking. Drain, and serve on a clean serviette. Garnish -with parsley. Serve either parsley or fennel sauce with them. - - -=Mullet, Red.=--These fish are much the best if cooked in buttered -paper. They may be roast, baked, or boiled--all ways are excellent if -the precaution of wrapping up be observed. A liberal share of butter -should be enclosed with them. The gills and fins only are removed; the -inside remains untouched, as the liver is much esteemed. Cook them -about twenty-five minutes, take out of the papers, and serve with -plenty of sauce in a tureen. Add the liquor which has oozed from the -fish to some plain melted butter, with a spoonful of anchovy sauce, a -squeeze of lemon juice, and a glassful of some good red wine. - - -=Mullet, Red= (Broiled _à la maître d'hôtel_).--Clean the mullet and -empty them, score them across in several places, lay them to soak in a -marinade of salad oil and minced sweet herbs--garlic also if the taste -is liked. Let them lie in this for half an hour. Drain them, sprinkle -with salt and pepper, lay on a gridiron, and broil over a clear fire, -turning on both sides. - - -=Mullet, Grey.=--The grey mullet is but seldom offered for sale. It -is generally thought much inferior to the red, and is only seasonable -during the heat of summer. It may be cooked in any of the ways given -for mackerel or for red mullet. - - -=Oysters.=--Oysters are never so excellent or so easy of digestion -as when they are eaten straight out of the newly-opened shell. If -carefully opened, and none of the juice be spilt, they will need no -seasoning; but if it be preferred, salt and pepper may be sprinkled -over them, also a squeeze of lemon juice. Brown bread and butter is the -usual accompaniment to them. - - -=Oysters, Browned in their own gravy.=--This is a very dainty dish. -Take a dozen or more large oysters, open them carefully, and pour the -juice from each one into a cup. Take off the beards, dip each oyster -into beaten egg thickened with flour. Brown them in a little butter, -lift them out, add the gravy from the cup to the butter, thicken with -flour, and season with pepper and salt. Let it simmer for two or three -minutes, then stir in the browned oysters; let them heat through again, -then pour over a slice of toast. - - -=Oysters, au Gratin.=--Butter a bright tin or silver gratin-dish. Stir -into a few ounces of breadcrumbs a spoonful of chopped parsley and -sweet herbs with seasoning. Sprinkle these thickly over the butter, and -moisten with white wine. Then split open two dozen large oysters, take -off the beards, and lay each oyster on the bed in the dish, pouring -the juice over as well. Cover them with a few more crumbs, place three -or four nobs of butter on the top, and bake in a moderate oven for ten -minutes. Bring to table in the dish. - - -=Perch.=--The best way of dressing perch is in _water souchy_. Remember -always to clean the perch first with a little warm water to take off -the slime, then lay them in cold salt water for an hour or so. Pick -out the smallest of the fish for the _souchy_, empty them, cut into -pieces, boil them slowly with some parsley-root, peppercorns, and salt. -Strain the broth (for the ingredients should boil until a strong broth -is obtained) through a muslin. The large perch should be crimped, after -being cleaned, then placed in the broth and simmered until just tender. -Drain them, serve in a deep dish with a ladleful of the broth poured -over them, and garnished with green parsley. A little fresh parsley, -chopped, may be introduced into the broth if liked. - -Perch may also be laid in a marinade (after being cleansed) then -broiled over the fire. It is well if, after lifting them out of the -marinade, they are liberally besprinkled with seasoned breadcrumbs and -herbs. Broil till lightly browned, lay on a hot dish, a nob of butter -on each, and garnish. Serve a little sharp sauce with them. - -If economy is not to be studied, they are very nice if stewed in -wine--sherry, or equal parts of sherry and clear stock. Lay the perch -in a deep dish, and just cover them with the above. Slice an onion -very thinly, lay over them with a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, a -bay-leaf, and some peppercorns, sprinkle liberally with salt, and let -them simmer gently for about twenty minutes. Make a sauce from the -liquor by thickening it with butter rolled in flour, and serve poured -over the fish. - - -=Pike, Baked.=--Pike must be scaled after washing them. To scale it -easily, first pour boiling water over the fish, then plunge immediately -into cold water, and scrape briskly with the back of a knife. Wipe the -fish dry, then empty it, and fill the cavity with a nicely seasoned -forcemeat, sew up the sides, and lay in a baking dish. Lay several -large lumps of butter about it, and pour over a glassful of white wine -or clear broth. Bake it in a moderate oven for half an hour--a large -fish will take even longer. It should be basted frequently, being a dry -fish. Good beef dripping will answer as well as butter. When done, lift -the fish carefully on to a hot dish, and thicken the gravy with flour; -add a spoonful of anchovy sauce, the same of mushroom ketchup, cayenne -pepper, and salt. Let them boil up again, then stir in a spoonful of -capers, and pour the sauce into a tureen. The fish may be garnished -with horseradish, fresh parsley, or small ripe tomatoes, if available. - -Pike may be boiled, letting it lie in vinegar some time previously, and -placing it in very hot water or stock, with an onion and bunch of sweet -herbs. Bring to a boil, and then simmer until tender. Serve it on a -clean napkin with cut lemons and parsley; send a sharp sauce to table -with it. - -The remains of cold boiled pike, or slices cut from a fresh fish, may -be dipped into egg and breadcrumbs and fried in fat. They will be found -very good, especially if accompanied by a dish of green vegetable, as -spinach, or a fresh salad. - - -=Plaice.=--Perhaps the very nicest way of dressing plaice is to cut the -fish into fillets, then to dip these into beaten egg and raspings, and -fry them. Place each fillet on a round of fried bread, and put a tiny -pat of anchovy butter on the top of each, giving a sprinkle of pepper -and salt as well, and thus they will be found to be very appetising. - - -=Plaice, au Gratin.=--Steep the fish in salt water for an hour or two, -cleanse and empty it, leaving the head untouched. Dry it thoroughly, -and take a dish that will just hold it. First melt a little beef -dripping in that, then put a layer of crumbs, a tablespoonful of -finely-minced suet, parsley, shallots, and seasoning. On this lay the -plaice, white side uppermost, cover with the same order, and squeeze -the juice of a lemon over the top. Set in the oven, which should be -hot enough to brown the surface quickly. Twenty minutes is ample for a -good-sized fish. Serve in the same dish. - - -=Plaice, Boiled.=--Large plaice should be chosen for boiling. Cut a -slit from the head downwards through the middle of the back, to prevent -the white side breaking. Lay it in the fish-kettle with sufficient -_cold_ water to cover it, and a teacupful of vinegar. Let it come -quickly to boiling point, then simmer for about five minutes longer. -Serve with shrimp or caper sauce. - - -=Prawns.=--Prawns much resemble shrimps, but are larger in size and -more delicate in flavour. When fresh they are of a bright red colour, -and very firm. - - -=Prawn Soup.=--Mince together till quite fine, a carrot, onion, stick -of celery, and small turnip. Melt a little butter in a stewpan, put in -the vegetables and let them simmer for a quarter of an hour, stirring -well about. Heat a quart of clear stock, take a thick slice of white -bread and cut it into dice, leaving out the crust, let it boil in the -liquor, then add the vegetables with the butter, and a tablespoonful -of salt. Boil all together. Take fifty prawns, pick out the tails, and -stew the bodies in a glass of wine, press them through a colander and -mix with the soup. Add then a pinch of cayenne pepper, a teaspoonful -of anchovy butter, and a dessert-spoonful of lemon juice. Allow all to -boil five minutes longer, and pour over fried croutons into a tureen. - - -=Ray, or Maids.=--This fish is the young skate, and, like the -latter, it is improved by being hung for a day. It is nicest if -cut into fillets and fried. It may be boiled for a few minutes in -"court-bouillon," or, after being par-boiled, it may be cut into -slices, dipped in oil, dredged with flour, and laid on a gridiron to -broil for a few moments longer. Minced parsley and shallots simmered in -butter, with a tablespoonful of vinegar, and seasoning of pepper and -salt, should form a gravy to accompany the fillets. - - -=Roach.=--The roach is a small fresh-water fish of a firm compact -flesh. It is best fried. Wash and empty the fish, dredge flour over -them when dry, fry them in hot fat for about five minutes. Send anchovy -or some very tasty sauce to table with them. - - -=Salmon.=--For boiling purposes choose salmon with small heads and -thick shoulders, or if buying only a portion of a fish, choose a piece -of the middle or the head and shoulders. - -After cleaning the fish, cut off the fins and gills and scrape the -scales carefully. Lay it in _nearly_ boiling water with plenty of salt -in it; let the water well cover the fish. Allow the water to come to -boiling point, then boil gently until a silver fork will pass through -the thickest part. As a general rule allow eight minutes to the pound -if the fish is a thick one, five or six minutes if it be a thin one. -Experience is the only safe guide. It is well to wrap the fish in -a thin linen cloth before putting it in the pan; only be careful in -removing the cloth when the fish is done, lest it be broken. Lay the -fish on a folded napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley, tomatoes, -and a few prawns. - - -=Salmon, Broiled.=--For broiling purposes slices across the fish about -an inch thick are preferable. If nicely cut and rubbed with a little -melted butter, sprinkled with pepper and salt, laid on the gridiron -and broiled on both sides over a very clear hot fire, turning every -two or three minutes till done, then laid on a hot dish with a pat -of fresh butter on each cutlet, and garnished with whatever is best -obtainable, they are indeed truly admirable. Shrimp sauce, or _maître -d'hôtel_ butter might accompany them. A dish of green peas, either -plainly boiled, or sautéd in butter, is a most delicious accompaniment -to salmon cutlets. - - -=Salmon, Baked.=--Take a piece two or three pounds in weight, either -from the middle or the tail end. Lay it in a deep pie-dish, surround -it with a few small shallots and sound red tomatoes, dredge a little -flour over it, sprinkle with pepper and salt, lay several small -pats of butter on the top, and pour a glassful of white wine into -the dish. Place the dish in a moderately hot oven and bake for from -three-quarters to an hour. When done, lift the fish on to a dish and -keep hot while preparing the sauce. Press the tomatoes and shallots -through a colander or hair sieve, add to the liquor in the dish, -with also a teaspoonful each of made mustard, vinegar, flour, and -Worcestershire sauce; let this boil up once, then pour round the fish. -Garnish with curled parsley and a few choice tomatoes. Serve whipped -potatoes with it, and cucumbers sliced in vinegar. - - -=Salmon Crumbs.=--A dish much liked in the North of Ireland. - -The remains of cold boiled salmon are divided into flakes and mixed -with half their quantity of stale breadcrumbs, a tablespoonful of -fresh butter, pepper, salt, a spoonful of vinegar, and one or two -beaten eggs. Butter a shallow pie-dish, strew with crumbs, then press -the mixture into it, and bake till brown. Any nice sauce, or a -freshly-dressed salad, may be served with this dish. - - -=Salmon Fritters.=--Take the remains of cold cooked salmon, remove the -skin and bone and break the flesh into flakes. Mix with these an equal -quantity of mashed potatoes, add pepper and salt and an egg to bind the -whole together. Make the mixture into small flat cakes or fritters, -coat each one with beaten egg, and dredge with flour; melt a little -nice dripping in a shallow frying-pan, fry the fritters first on one -side, then on the other, till they are a nice brown colour, drain and -keep hot while preparing the following:--The heart of a crisp white -lettuce, shred, and piled in the centre of a dish, two hard-boiled -eggs shelled and minced small, strewn over this; make a dressing with -salt and pepper, one spoonful of vinegar and two of oil, the whole of -a shallot, some chives and parsley finely minced, all mixed together, -then poured over the lettuce. Sprinkle a little lobster coral over the -surface, place the fritters round the base, and serve at once. This is -a nice supper dish. - - -=Salmon Trout.=--These are rightly esteemed a great delicacy. They -may be dressed and served according to the recipes given for salmon, -although boiling is the least suitable method. As they seldom exceed -two or three pounds in weight, it scarcely repays to fillet them. For -broiling they may be treated like mackerel, but, better still, when -they have been duly cleansed and scaled, wrap them in buttered paper, -and either bake them in the oven or broil them on the gridiron. Baking -is the best method of cooking salmon trout, but, when small, they are -very good if dipped bodily into batter, then plunged into boiling fat, -and served with _maître d'hôtel_ sauce. - - -=Salmon Trout, Baked and Stuffed.=--A good-sized trout is very nice if -baked as follows:--After emptying and scaling the fish, fill the cavity -with a stuffing of breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs, and an egg to mix it; -sew the sides together if necessary. Lay in a baking dish, dredge with -flour, place butter on the top, put a tablespoonful of vinegar and one -of stock into the dish, and bake in the oven from twenty minutes to -half an hour. Lift the fish out on to a dish, thicken the liquor with -flour, add seasoning, a spoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of -anchovy essence, and pour this sauce round the fish. New potatoes, -green peas, or baked tomatoes should accompany this dish. - - -=Sardines.=--Tinned sardines are generally eaten without any further -preparation, although very nice sandwiches may be made from them, also -they are an indispensable adjunct to a fish salad. - -Fresh sardines should be first cleansed, then dried in a soft cloth, -laid on the gridiron and broiled for about two minutes. Sprinkle salt -and pepper and a dash of vinegar over them, and serve very hot on -toasted bread. - - -=Shad.=--Shad does not enjoy a very high reputation in England; in -France it is quite a favourite fish and is thought worthy of being -cooked in wine, and served with Béchamel sauce. Its best season is the -early spring-time, March to May. The French way of cooking it is to -split it open, after emptying, scaling, and washing it, then to lay -it in oil, with pepper and salt. After it has soaked in this marinade -for a sufficient time, it is laid on the gridiron, and broiled _very -slowly_, on both sides, for upwards of an hour. Served with _maître -d'hôtel_ butter or caper sauce. Shad may be fried after first trimming -into convenient-sized pieces and dipping each piece in frying batter. -It may also be stuffed and baked according to instructions given for -salmon trout. - - -=Shrimps.=--There are several varieties of shrimps. The two kinds most -commonly met with are the brown and the red shrimps. The brown kind -is caught nearest to the shore in the shallower pools, and has the -strongest flavour. The red shrimp is generally much smaller in size and -more refined in flavour. When freshly boiled, shrimps are excellent as -a breakfast relish, but when stale they are far from wholesome. Allow a -good handful of coarse salt to the quart of water when boiling; as soon -as they have attained a nice colour they are done. - - -=Shrimps, Potted.=--In potting shrimps, after they have been well -boiled, take care to pick off both heads and tails and to twist -them dexterously out of the shells. As a good quantity of shrimps -are required to make a small amount, it is as well to benefit by an -opportunity of shrimp sauce being required, and so set aside the heads -and tails to be used for the latter purpose. After having thoroughly -pounded the bodies of the shrimps in a mortar, put in a small -saltspoonful of salt and the same of pepper, and one or two ounces of -fresh butter. Pound all well together, press into small pots, and pour -clarified butter on the surface to exclude the air. - -Shrimp butter is made in the same way, only adding an _equal_ quantity -of butter to the paste. Neither of these will keep good many days. - - -=Shrimp Forcemeat=, for stuffing sea or fresh-water fish. - -Shred some shrimps and add to them an equal quantity of fresh -breadcrumbs. To a tablespoonful of fresh butter add a saltspoonful of -seasoning, and a beaten egg. Make the shrimps and crumbs into a stiff -paste with this. Particularly good as a forcemeat for pike and carp. - - -=Shrimp Patties.=--(The same mixture is used for shrimp "vol-au-vent"). -Pick off the heads and tails from freshly-boiled shrimps, and shell -them. Put the shells into a saucepan, cover them with water, and -boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Strain the liquor, then thicken -it with a teaspoonful of arrowroot, add the yolk of an egg, salt and -pepper to taste, a small nob of butter, stir all together over the -fire; when it is of the consistency of cream, put in the bodies of -the shrimps to heat through and draw the saucepan to one side until -required. Make some good puff paste, line the patty pans, and put a -morsel of soft bread in the middle before putting on the cover. Bake -the patties to a nice brown, then remove the bread, replacing it with a -spoonful of the mixture, put on the cover, brush over the surface and -edges with beaten yolk of egg and water, return the patties to the oven -to heat them through again, then send to table on a pretty d'oyley. -They are very good also for eating cold. If liked, the top crust may -be omitted, and a few breadcrumbs be sprinkled over the top of the -mixture. Garnish the dish with curly parsley and a few large shrimps. - - -=Shrimp Canapés.=--A nice entrée. Cut some small rounds from a stale -loaf of bread, fry them in oil or lard to a delicate brown, then cover -each with a layer of either potted shrimps or shrimp butter. Hard boil -two eggs. Remove the yolks, and pound them with a small bit of butter -and a pinch of pepper and salt. Cut the whites into thin strips. Lay -the strips in a lattice work over the rounds and place a pat of the -yellow mixture in the middle of them, and a whole shrimp on that, or -the very tiniest sprig of parsley. Make a bed of fresh dry parsley on a -dish to lay the rounds upon. - - -=Skate.=--Skate is an unwholesome fish if eaten out of season. Its best -time is during the winter months, and it is positively improved by -being kept for a day or two hung up. However it is dressed it should -always be skinned first. The liver is a choice morsel. - -A method of dressing skate which is much liked by French people, is to -do it _à la Sainte Ménehould_. For this it should be skinned and cut -into neat pieces, then simmered in white sauce till tender; the pieces -of fish should then be lifted out on to a shallow dish, the sauce to -receive the addition of a yolk of egg and pinch of cayenne pepper, then -to be poured over the fish, Parmesan or Cheshire cheese grated over -the top. Set the dish in the oven to get thoroughly hot again. - -For boiling, large skate are preferable to small ones, and when -possible they should be crimped. (N.B.--Crimping can only be done when -the fish is perfectly fresh.) It should be plunged into boiling salt -water, then gently simmered till tender. Let it drain well. - -Boiled skate is very good served with "Black Butter" sauce. For this -last, a quarter pound of butter should be allowed to frizzle in a -saucepan until of a light brown colour, then a few washed and dried -parsley leaves should be thrown in, a tablespoonful of tarragon -vinegar, ditto of mushroom ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, and chopped -capers, pepper and salt to taste. Let these boil once, then either pour -over the fish or send to table in a tureen. - -Skate may also be fried, curried, or stewed, according to directions -given for other fish. - - -=Smelts.=--Smelts should be handled as little as possible; not washed, -but wiped with a cloth. The inside should be pulled out with the gills, -as they must not be opened. - -It is most usual to fry smelts. Boiling is not to be recommended, -unless for an invalid, in which case they should be put into boiling -water which contains a few parsley leaves and a lump or two of sugar -as well as salt; four minutes cooking is ample time. A little of the -liquor in which they were boiled should receive the addition of cream -and chopped parsley, and be served with them. - -For frying, smelts should be first dipped into beaten egg, then into -mixed flour and breadcrumbs, afterwards fried in a good depth of -boiling fat. Lift them out with a slice, drain well, and garnish with -cut lemon. - -Smelts are delicious as a breakfast relish if laid on a gridiron and -broiled lightly on both sides, then placed on a hot dish, sprinkled -with pepper and salt, lemon juice squeezed over, and a pat of butter -placed on each. - -They may also be baked _au gratin_, and served in the same dish. - - -=Soles.=--The popular method of cooking this favourite fish is to fry -them. Some persons declare it to be the best method. If it be so or -not, certain it is that the following ways, when fairly tried, will -be found to compete very closely in favour. _Very_ large soles may -be boiled whole, and will be found most agreeable eating, not unlike -turbot in flavour. When practicable, soles should be cleansed a couple -of hours before they are wanted for cooking, wrapped in a towel and -laid in a cool place to stiffen. The fishmonger will generally skin -them; if not, it is easy to draw the skin off the back beginning at the -head, gut them, and take out the roe, if any. - - -=Soles, Fried.=--Medium sized fish are the best for frying whole, or if -large they should be filleted. After cleansing them be careful to wipe -_very_ dry, then dip them first into flour, next into beaten egg, and -cover with bread raspings. Fry quickly in plenty of boiling fat. From -five to ten minutes is the time a moderate sized sole will require--but -when of a rich colour it is generally cooked sufficiently. Lay on a -wire sieve or blotting-paper to drain before putting on to a dish. -Garnish with cut lemons and parsley, either fresh or fried. - - -=Sole, Boiled.=--Let the sole be large, thick, and firm; it should not -weigh less than two pounds. Wrap it in a clean white cloth (a napkin -which is too old for table use is best), plunge it into boiling salted -water with a tablespoonful of vinegar, let it boil very gently for -about seven or eight minutes, according to size, then drain well, lay -carefully on a clean napkin. Garnish with sliced tomatoes and lemons, -and tufts of parsley. Send to table either melted butter, shrimp, or -anchovy sauce. - - -=Soles, Baked au Gratin.=--Melt an ounce of butter in a gratin-dish, -or tin baking dish. Chop finely two or three shallots, a small bunch -of parsley, and few herbs, grate a slice of stale bread. Sprinkle half -the quantity of these at the bottom of the dish, lay the sole upon -that and cover with the remainder. Pour either a glass of white wine -or the juice of a lemon over all, lay a few bits of butter at the top, -and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Serve in the same dish, -sprinkled with salt and pepper. Or soles are very nice if laid in a -buttered dish, having rubbed them with flour, more butter placed on the -top, and baked till lightly browned. They may be lifted on to another -dish, but the butter should be served with them. - - -=Sole à la Normande.=--This is an epicure's dish. After skinning and -cleaning a large sole, dry it thoroughly and rub with flour. Take -a gratin-dish, or a porcelain one which will stand fire. Slice two -shallots very thinly, brown them in butter, and lay at the bottom of -the dish with more butter. Lay the sole in the dish, sprinkle it with -salt and pepper, and cover with a glass of white wine. Bake in a gentle -oven until tender through. Meanwhile make some rich white sauce with -cream; if possible, take a few oysters, beard them, and put them into -the sauce with their liquor; let the sauce merely simmer after this. -Open a small tin of button mushrooms, mince them finely, and strew them -over the sole, let them get hot through, then pour the oyster sauce -over all. Garnish with a few shrimps, and place tiny croutons of fried -bread round the edge. - -Cider may be used instead of wine. - - -=Soles, Filleted.=--Fillet a large sole by slitting it down the middle -of the back, and with a sharp knife raising the flesh from the bone -on each side. Divide the meat into convenient sized pieces, say two -inches broad and three long, make a marinade of salt, pepper, vinegar, -and oil, lay the fillets in this, turning them often, and let them lie -an hour or so. Prepare a frying batter--a heaped spoonful of flour -mixed smooth with a little oil and cold water, a pinch of salt, and the -whites of two eggs--it should be fairly thick. Well coat each fillet -with this, then drop into boiling fat, and fry till a nice brown. -Garnish prettily, and serve with tomato sauce. - -The fillets of sole may be dipped into egg and bread raspings, fried, -then laid in the following sauce to heat through, before serving -altogether: half a pint of clear stock thickened with a tablespoonful -of flour, mixed smooth with butter, a tablespoonful of mushroom -ketchup, a teaspoonful of curry powder, the same of tarragon vinegar, -and a pinch of salt. Let the sauce be well cooked before putting in the -fillets. - -The fillets, or small soles whole, may be gently simmered in butter -till tender, then laid on a hot dish, and white sauce seasoned with -salt, pepper, and lemon juice, be poured over them. If the soles be -_boiled_ for two minutes only before putting them in the butter, and -the sauce be made with cream, this will be found a most delicious way -of dressing them for invalids. - - -=Sprats.=--Sprats resemble herrings very closely. They are abundant -on the North British coasts, particularly in the Firth of Forth. In -Edinburgh and Glasgow they are known as "garvies." They may be cooked -in any of the ways prescribed for herrings, but are best broiled over -the fire, and lemon juice improves the flavour of them. - - -=Sturgeon.=--The sturgeon is somewhat of a rarity in English markets, -although common enough in Russia. It is regarded as a royal fish, and -is proportionately costly. Its flesh is delicious, and the caviare -which the Russians prepare from the roe is justly esteemed a great -delicacy. - -The Russian method of dressing it is to par-boil it in water with -onions, herbs, and baysalt, then to drain it, dredge it with flour, and -pour melted butter liberally over it, then to lay it before a bright -fire to roast, serving with a rich sauce, either poured over it, or in -a tureen. - -Sturgeon is very good if simply roasted before the fire, taking care -to baste frequently with butter. Of course all the skin and spikes are -previously stripped off, and the fish well cleansed. - - -=Sturgeon, Stewed.=--This is one of the best ways of cooking a portion -of this fish. Take two or three slices about an inch thick, let them -steep in vinegar awhile. Dry them, dip in flour, and place in some -frothing butter in a covered stewpan. Let them brown on both sides, -then remove the fish, and in its place put a few shallots, half a -small carrot cut into dice, and some button mushrooms. When these -have browned, cover them with half a pint of clear veal broth, a good -tumblerful of claret, a teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed, then -replace the slices of sturgeon. Let all stew together for upwards of -an hour, when remove the fish on to a dish, strain the sauce from the -vegetables, thicken it with a little flour rolled in butter, and add a -spoonful of some sharp sauce. Pour over the fish on the dish. - - -=Tench.=--River tench are the best for the table. They somewhat -resemble carp, but are smaller in size and of a richer flavour. They -should lie in salt water for a few hours, then be turned into clear -spring water, to rid them of the slight muddy flavour which they are -apt to have. The cold winter months are their best season. - -Empty and scale the tench very carefully, always removing the gills, -as they are most apt to retain the muddy flavour. After the fish is -cleansed it is a good plan to rub it well over with lemon juice. It may -then be baked _au gratin_, or boiled in salt water, or broiled over the -fire. If the last-named method be chosen, let the fish be steeped in -oil, sprinkled with salt and pepper, and wrapped in oiled paper before -laying on the gridiron. Great care is needed not to let the paper catch -fire. Remove the paper before bringing to table, lay the fish on a hot -dish and serve a _sauce piquante_ over it. - -The time it takes to cook will depend entirely on the size of the fish. -Broiling will require about ten minutes to the pound; boiling and -baking rather less time. - -Tench is also good if fried. After scaling and cleaning it should be -dipped into vinegar and water, dried, and split open; dredge it with -flour, and plunge into boiling fat. Serve garnished with parsley and -lemons. - - -=Trout, Baked.=--One of the nicest ways of dressing trout is to simply -bake them with butter. Wash, empty, and dry the trout, sprinkle them -with seasoned flour, lay in a baking tin in which a little butter has -been melted, place several pats of butter over them, and bake about -twenty minutes. Lift them out on to a dish, garnish with parsley, -thicken the butter slightly, stir in a spoonful of chopped parsley and -a squeeze of lemon juice, and pour the sauce round the fish. - - -=Trout, Boiled.=--Fresh trout is excellent if boiled in -"court-bouillon" for ten to fifteen minutes, then drained and served -with Dutch sauce or melted butter. This method is similar to that -recommended by the great Izaak Walton. - - -=Turbot.=--The turbot is the king of flat fish, and is justly held in -high estimation. It is rather an expensive fish, and is mostly sold -by size. At its best from February to August. It will keep good for a -day, or even two, if slightly salted. Salt should be rubbed all over -to help to remove the slime. The fins should not be cut off, but an -incision should be made all the way down the middle of the backbone on -the _dark_ side to prevent the white side cracking. Lemon juice rubbed -over it helps to preserve the colour. Any unsightly spots on the white -side may be removed by rubbing with salt and lemon juice. - - -=Turbot, Boiled.=--After preparing the turbot according to the -directions given above, lay it in the turbot kettle and cover with -cold water to the depth of an inch. Allow a good handful of salt to a -gallon of water. Bring it up to boiling point as quickly as possible, -and remove the scum as it rises. When it boils draw it aside to simmer -gently, watch it carefully, and as soon as it shows signs of the flesh -shrinking from the bone, lift it out on the drainer, let it drain a -minute, then slide it carefully on to a clean napkin. Garnish with -parsley, cut lemons, and if a few crayfish are obtainable they add -greatly to the beauty of the dish. A sprinkling of lobster coral on the -white surface is very pretty. - -Whatever sauce accompanies boiled turbot, it should be brought to table -in a tureen. - -A pretty way of garnishing boiled turbot in summer time is to surround -it with a border of nasturtium flowers. - - -=Turbot, with Anchovy Cream.=--Boil a medium sized turbot according -to the last recipe--by the way, a turbot ought to be thick and of a -creamy white colour; if thin and bluish looking it is not a good one. -Lay the fish on a hot dish without a napkin, cover to keep it hot. Then -into half a pint of plain melted butter, stir in a good teaspoonful -of essence of anchovies, and a quarter of a pint of rich cream; let -it nearly boil, then pour over the turbot. Chop small a few pickled -gherkins and capers, strew them over the surface. Before bringing to -table, make a border round this of new kidney potatoes, well boiled but -not broken; garnish the outer edge with parsley. - - -=Turbot à la Béchamel.=--This is one of the best ways of dressing -cold turbot. Make a pint of Béchamel sauce by boiling together equal -quantities of good white stock and cream in an enamelled saucepan, also -a strip of fresh lemon rind and two or three shallots. Add a mixed -teaspoonful of salt and pepper, thicken with a spoonful of arrowroot, -and let it boil well. Remove the lemon rind and shallots, and put in -the pieces of turbot to heat through, all skin and bone removed. When -quite hot, pour all together on to a hot dish; if liked, a few oysters -may be added to the sauce just before turning it out. Some potato -croquettes are a nice addition to this dish. - - -=Turbot Salad.=--The remains of cold turbot will make an excellent -salad. Free it from all skin and bone, and divide into pieces about -an inch square. Sprinkle the pieces with salt and pepper and a little -vinegar. Take two large fresh lettuces, let them be quite clean and -dry. Make a dressing for the salad of the beaten yolks of two eggs, a -teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper, four spoonsful of oil, -and one of tarragon vinegar. Arrange the salad in a bowl or dish by -making a layer of shred lettuce leaves, then one of fish, and a few -spoonsful of the dressing, and continue thus until the material is used -up. Garnish the top with sliced beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, &c., and -let the salad stand in a cold place for half an hour. - -Turbot may be cooked _au gratin_ if of a small size, allowing white -wine or cider to it. French cooks generally prefer to par-boil it in -"court-bouillon," then to take it out and finish cooking it in white -sauce. - - -=Whitebait.=--Whitebait are genuine Cockney fish, being found alone in -the Thames in perfection. They make their appearance early in the year, -but the season _par excellence_ is the month of May. They cannot be had -too fresh; if not used instantly they are brought in, they should lie -in ice-water until required. - -It is generally thought that only a "professional" can cook whitebait, -but if due care be given there is no reason why they should be beyond -the skill of the amateur. The principal thing to observe is the -_drying_ of the fish. After well draining them they should be thrown on -to a floured cloth--a cloth containing flour an inch in depth. When -thus dosed, the fish should be put into a sifter and lightly shaken -to remove all superfluous flour. They should next be put into a wire -basket, a few at a time, and plunged into a pan containing a good depth -of boiling fat. A minute generally suffices to cook them, then they -should be laid on a hot dish, garnished with fried parsley, and sent -to table instantly. It is absolutely needful to fry the whitebait the -moment after it is floured; if allowed to remain on one side for only a -few minutes, it becomes flabby and spoilt. Thin brown bread and butter -and slices of lemon are an indispensable accompaniment to whitebait. -For "Devilled Whitebait" lift out the basket of fish when only half -cooked, pepper them with black or cayenne pepper and return to the fat -to finish cooking. - - -=Whiting.=--Whiting are excellent fish when fresh, the flesh being -light, tender, and easy of digestion. The firmness of the flesh, and -its silvery hue, are the signs by which to judge of its freshness. It -is more or less in season all the year, but at its best in the winter -months. Occasionally they attain to a considerable size, but are -mostly from one to two pounds in weight. Those about nine inches in -length are the best in point of flavour. - -Whiting are best broiled or fried. - - -=Whiting, Broiled.=--Wash in salted water, split them open, and dry -thoroughly. Dip them in oil, sprinkle with seasoning, dredge with -flour, and then lay on a greased gridiron, and broil lightly on both -sides. Place them on a hot dish, put a pat of butter on each, and serve -smoking hot. - - -=Whiting, Fried.=--Empty, and wash the fish, skin it, and then draw the -tail through the mouth. Dip each one first into flour, then in beaten -egg and breadcrumbs, drop into boiling fat, and fry to a golden brown. -Garnish the dish with fried parsley, and send sauce to table in a -tureen. - -A large whiting may be split open, floured, and then fried in a smaller -quantity of fat. When done, lay it on a dish and pour the following -sauce over it: A tablespoonful of minced herbs, the same of parsley, a -pinch of seasoning, an ounce of fresh butter, and small glass of white -wine all boiled together. - - - - -PART IV. - -_FISH SAUCES_. - - -A few plain directions as to the making of sauces suitable for serving -with fish, will, we think, not be unwelcome. First as to that sauce -commonly known as-- - - -=Melted Butter.=--In France this sauce is what its name declares it -to be, viz., a tureen half full of pure butter dissolved, in strong -contrast to that generally found on English tables, where a mixture of -milk and water thickened with flour, is usually dignified with this -title. True "butter sauce" belongs to neither of these extremes. As one -ladleful will generally suffice for each individual partaking of fish, -it is as well to measure into the saucepan the number of ladlefuls that -will be required, so that there shall be no waste of good material. - -Having ascertained how much liquid will be in the saucepan when the -sauce is finished, pour away the water and proceed to divide the -materials you will use. A small lump of butter should be allowed for -each ladleful of sauce. Take one lump and let it dissolve, then stir in -a heaped tablespoonful of dry flour, mix these quite smoothly together, -with the addition of cold water, until like a cream; add boiling -water to make half the quantity of sauce, then stir in by degrees the -remaining lumps of butter. If the sauce shows signs of looking oily, a -little cold water will correct it. A pinch of salt should be added, or -salt butter may be used. - - -=Maître d'Hôtel Butter.=--For this prepare a little melted butter, by -mixing an ounce of butter with the same weight of flour, and cold water -to make it smooth. Dilute with a quarter of a pint of white stock. Let -this mixture boil, then stir in a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one -of sweet herbs, half one of minced chives, a teaspoonful of mixed salt -and pepper, the juice of a lemon, or a spoonful of tarragon vinegar, -and a spoonful of pure oil; when these have been well mixed together, -draw aside the saucepan and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg, then -pour into a hot tureen. - - -=Herb Sauce: for Broiled Fish.=--Chop some dry parsley until quite -fine, also an equal quantity of mixed herbs--thyme, marjoram, sage, -chervil, celery, fennel, &c. Put first a small lump of butter to -dissolve in the saucepan, and chop finely a shallot and let it frizzle -in this, then stir in the parsley and herbs, and add sufficient vinegar -to cover them. Draw the saucepan aside and let it simmer ten minutes to -abstract the flavour. Just before it is wanted, add pepper and a pinch -of salt, also a good tablespoonful of oil. A yolk of egg, added lastly, -will slightly thicken and improve it, but it is very good without, -especially for broiled herrings and mackerel. - - -=Anchovy Sauce.=--Anchovy sauce is quickly and easily made according -to the recipe given in the previous chapter (see letter A), but if a -richer sauce is desired, the anchovies should be boiled gently until -they dissolve. Then the liquor be strained, added to a little plain -melted butter with a glass of port wine. - - -=Shrimp Sauce.=--For this the foundation is again "melted butter," and -to half a pint of that allow half a pint of shrimps. Pick off heads, -tails, and shells, and let the bodies stew gently in the sauce, but -not boil, or they will harden. Add a pinch of cayenne pepper, a little -lemon-juice, a drop of anchovy essence, and salt to taste. - - -=Lobster Sauce= can be made in the same way, using a little of the -white meat of the lobster torn into flakes, in place of the shrimps, -and stirring in a spoonful of lobster butter. It must not boil or -the colour will be spoilt. To give this sauce a stronger flavour of -lobster, the shell may be boiled in water, and the liquor used instead -of water. - - -=Fennel Sauce.=--Pick some fennel from the stalk and boil it for a -minute, then chop it fine and add to some "melted butter." Stir in the -yolk of an egg the last thing. A teaspoonful of spiced vinegar will -give piquancy to it. - - -=Parsley Sauce.=--Parsley sauce is merely "melted butter" with chopped -parsley stirred in. It is an improvement to let the sauce boil a -moment or two after to take off the raw flavour. - - -=Horseradish Sauce.=--To two tablespoonsful of finely-scraped -horseradish and one of stale white breadcrumbs allow half a pint of -cream--or new milk and cream--and a pinch of salt. Let this stew for -fifteen minutes, then stir in a spoonful of vinegar just before serving. - - -=Gooseberry Sauce, for Mackerel.=--Stew half a pint of gooseberries in -a little water until very soft, press them through a sieve into the -same quantity of "melted butter," add an ounce of white sugar, and a -spoonful of spinach-juice to give a nice green colour. - - -=Egg Sauce.=--_First Way_: Make some good "melted butter," stir into it -two or three hard-boiled eggs which have been cut up small, and season -it well. Just before serving stir in the beaten yolk of a fresh egg. - -_Second Way_ (for cold fish): Beat the yolks of two fresh eggs, stir -in a teaspoonful of made mustard, half a teaspoonful of mixed salt -and pepper, and by degrees two tablespoonsful of salad oil and one -of tarragon vinegar. It should be of the consistency of cream. This -sauce is almost identical with "Mayonnaise" sauce, and to make a green -mayonnaise add finely-minced chives, parsley, chervil, and cress. - - -=Tomato Sauce.=--Melt an ounce of butter, and slice one or two tomatoes -thinly into it, add one or two shallots. Let these stew till quite -soft, then press through a wire sieve. Add a little more butter to -this purée, plenty of salt and pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar. Make -thoroughly hot before serving. - - -Regard should always be had to contrast of colour in garnishing all -dishes. Where the fish is masked in white sauce, the introduction of -something red amongst the green garnishing is a relief to the eye. -Flowers may be used to supply this needful touch of colour, slices of -beetroot, or a few strips of boiled carrot, or a few bright prawns, one -or two chilies, &c. - -If a portion of salmon, showing the bright colour of the meat, is the -dish which has to be trimmed, a few mounds of scraped horseradish -alternating with tufts of curly parsley looks well. - -For fried fish--soles, fillets, lobster cutlets, &c., it is better -to fry the parsley which is used for their garnishing. Double-curled -parsley, well dried, thrown into a wire basket and plunged into the -boiling fat, for one minute only, is the way to obtain this. - -Crisp, fried croutons of bread, tiny potato balls, rice balls, sliced -lemons, small bright tomatoes, and slices of hard-boiled egg, are all -excellent for garnishing purposes. - -Fish that has been baked in the oven--excepting always that which has -been done _au gratin_, and which requires no garnish--will often be -made to look very pretty if a few fancy shapes be stamped out of cooked -vegetables, say the red of a carrot, the white of a turnip, tiny sprigs -of cauliflower, &c., always using green parsley to finish off the outer -edge. Where there is the will to do it, means will not be lacking -whereby the simplest dish may be made to look elegant. - - -The Gresham Press, - -UNWIN BROTHERS - -WOKING AND LONDON. - - -Transcriber Note - -Hyphenation was standardized to the most commonly used version. -Some accents were corrected and one added for consistent usage. The -measurement "nob" (small amount) was retained rather than the current -"knob". - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's A Handbook of Fish Cookery, by Lucy H. 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Yates - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: A Handbook of Fish Cookery - How to buy, dress, cook, and eat fish - -Author: Lucy H. Yates - -Release Date: November 13, 2016 [EBook #53525] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A HANDBOOK OF FISH COOKERY *** - - - - -Produced by Tom Cosmas and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="fig_center" style="width: 428px;"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="428" height="714" alt="Yates - Handbook of Fish-Cookery" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - -<p class="caption2">Mrs. Beeton's Famous Cookery Books.</p> - - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><b>Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management.</b> 7s. 6d.</p> - -<p><b>Mrs. Beeton's Family Cookery and Housekeeping Book.</b> 5s.</p> - -<p><b>Mrs. Beeton's Every Day Cookery and Housekeeping Book.</b> 3s. 6d.</p> - -<p><b>Mrs. Beeton's All About Cookery.</b> 2s. 6d.</p> - -<p><b>Mrs. Beeton's Cookery Book</b>. 1s.</p> - -<p><b>Mrs. Beeton's Englishwoman's Cookery Book.</b> 6d.</p> - -<p><b>Mrs. Beeton's Penny Cookery Book.</b> 1d.</p> - -</div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<p class="caption2"><i>A HANDBOOK OF FISH COOKERY.</i></p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<div style="width: 40em; margin:0 auto; border: 1px solid #000; padding: 2em;"> -<p class="caption3nb"><i>BY THE SAME AUTHOR.</i></p> - -<p class="caption4">Price 2s. 6d.</p> - -<p class="caption2">THE PROFESSION OF COOKERY -FROM A FRENCH POINT OF VIEW.</p> - -<p class="caption3nb"><i>With some Economical Practices peculiar to -the Nation.</i></p> - - -<p>"An excellent practical treatise, well expressed, -full of sound information lucidly -conveyed by a writer who really knows her -subject well, and combines fine taste with a -real regard for economy."—<i>The Times.</i></p> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<p class="caption3 pmt2">A HANDBOOK</p> - -<p class="center">OF</p> - -<h1>FISH COOKERY</h1> - -<p class="caption3nb"><i>HOW TO BUY, DRESS, COOK, AND EAT FISH</i></p> - - -<p class="center pmt4">BY</p> - -<p class="caption2">LUCY H. YATES</p> - -<p class="center pmb4"><i>Author of "The Profession of Cookery from a French -Point of View."</i></p> - - -<p class="center">LONDON</p> - -<p class="caption3nb">WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED</p> - -<p class="center">WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.C.<br /> -NEW YORK AND MELBOURNE<br /> -1897</p> - - - - -<p class="caption2 pmt4">CONTENTS.</p> - -<div class="fig_center" style="width: 92px;"> -<img src="images/bar_diamond.png" width="92" height="14" alt="-----¤<>¤-----" /> -</div> - -<table summary="TOC"> -<tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdr smaller">PAGE</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><a href="#INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION</a></td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="caption3" colspan="2">PART I.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><a href="#PART_I">CHOOSING AND BUYING FISH</a></td> - <td class="tdr">7</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="caption3" colspan="2">PART II.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><a href="#PART_II">THE COOKING OF FISH</a></td> - <td class="tdr">17</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="caption3" colspan="2">PART III.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><a href="#PART_III">TESTED RECIPES</a></td> - <td class="tdr">23</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="caption3" colspan="2">PART IV.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><a href="#PART_IV">FISH SAUCES</a></td> - <td class="tdr">81</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">« 1 »</a></span></p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - - - -<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"><i>INTRODUCTION.</i></a></h2> - - -<p>In spite of a considerable amount of -trade grumbling, the best part of the -market is still held by English fish, as a -glance at any time over the names on -the crates will show. The foreign importations, -though large, are not nearly -so extensive as might be supposed.</p> - -<p>As a rule the north British ports furnish -the largest supply; the southern -ports suffer the most from foreign competition. -Continental freightage also is -light, and as the foreigner rarely keeps -very closely to the laws of "fence -months," he gets fish into the market -when no home-caught of the same kind -is to be had.</p> - -<p>If all people, both rich and poor, could -be persuaded to eat fish more freely, -they would be benefited both in health -and pocket.</p> - -<p>If the <i>demand</i> were greater the <i>supply</i> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">« 2 »</a></span> -would be more liberal, more varied, and -also much cheaper.</p> - -<p>At present, although there is much -complaining about catches falling off, -many grounds yielding but a poor harvest, -yet tons of fish are annually sent -away from the markets for manure.</p> - -<p>The trade is both risky and variable, -consequently prices have to be kept up -that the dealer may realise some profit, -and for this state of things <i>the modern -housewife is largely accountable</i>.</p> - -<p>It is not wholly a question of price, -although there is still much to desire on -this point.</p> - -<p>Ignorance, especially with the working-man's -wife, will generally be found to -be the cause of the aversion which many -housewives have to the cooking of fish; -even in middle and upper class households -much ignorance as to the kinds of -fish and the best means of making use of -them prevails.</p> - -<p>The poorer classes still regard fish as -"nothing to make a meal of," and, sad -to say, a great many of the poor of our -cities will not eat fish, however cheaply -they may get it. They have many advantages -of getting it which those who -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">« 3 »</a></span> -live in superior neighbourhoods have -not.</p> - -<p>Often before the Central Market closes, -first-rate cod is to be had for twopence -the pound—a seven-pound cod for a -shilling. Plentiful and wholesome as cod -is, it is seldom much thought of by poor -people. Salted, sun-dried cod, is thought -beneath notice, although large quantities -are consumed on the continent, and some -very dainty dishes made therefrom. -Plaice, too, generally to be had at fourpence -the pound, is but lightly esteemed.</p> - -<p>Humble Londoners care most for -smoked fish, "something that has a grip -with it," they say. To meet this demand -many adulterations are practised by the -cockney curer. "Haddocks" are often -but indifferent codling. The "Finnan -Haddie" was caught in the Scheldt, and -Stavanger herrings are passed off as Yarmouth -bloaters.</p> - -<p>Unwholesome common lobsters, winkles, -and whelks, are preferred to good substantial -fish, and, as before stated, ignorance -of the proper methods of cooking -is most frequently the reason of this.</p> - -<p>Where late dinners, with people of -small incomes, are coming more into -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">« 4 »</a></span> -favour, it is found an economy, as it is -also considered the "correct thing," to -have a course of fish. Indeed, as an -economical article of diet, fish has few -rivals.</p> - -<p>Many people who really would enjoy -eating it are debarred from doing so by -its being invariably badly cooked, or presented -always in the same monotonous -dress.</p> - -<p>Phosphorus being essential for brain -food, and as analysis has proved fish to -contain a greater amount than almost any -other article of diet, it is the more valuable -still on this account.</p> - -<p>The fish which afford the most nourishment -are the kinds which most resemble -meat, as salmon, mackerel, &c.; turbot -and halibut, though strictly belonging to -the "lighter" order, are very nourishing -on account of the amount of meat which -they bear in proportion to bone. The -whiter kinds of fish are the most easily -digestible, as soles or cod, whiting, &c., -and some kinds of river fish, notably -perch.</p> - -<p>With the exception of trout—and perhaps -pike—fresh-water fish are less -esteemed than they deserve to be.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">« 5 »</a></span></p> - -<p>Salmon is sometimes called a river fish, -though genuinely it is not so, as, although -born in the river, the sea is its home and -natural sphere.</p> - -<p>In Parisian restaurants many dainty -dishes are prepared from fish caught in -the Seine; and in country places where -sea-water fish is often difficult to obtain, -the ponds and rivers will often furnish -excellent substitutes.</p> - -<p>All fresh-water fish—with the exception -of trout—is at its best in winter-time.</p> - -<p>Shell-fish, perfectly harmless in themselves -as they may be, exemplify the saying -that "what is one man's meat is -another man's poison;" accordingly, where -they are found to disagree they should be -strictly avoided.</p> - -<p>Oysters, the most highly esteemed of -shell-fish, are frequently ordered by the -physician when it is desirable to unite -great nourishment with easy digestion, -the amount of gluten they contain giving -them this valuable quality.</p> - -<p>Lobsters are popularly considered to -be the least harmful next to oysters, -and the flesh of a fresh crab is both -delicate and delicious.</p> - -<p>Shrimps, prawns, and crayfish, should -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">« 6 »</a></span> -properly rank as "relishes"; they are -extremely useful in savoury dishes, either -with or without other fish.</p> - -<p>Cockles are deservedly esteemed by -the rich, and they have often staved off -the pressure of starvation from the poor -of our coasts.</p> - -<p>The limpet is a great favourite with -the Irish, while the periwinkle is the poor -man's luxury, and the clam enjoys high -favour in the United States.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">« 7 »</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="PART_I" id="PART_I">PART I.</a></h2> - -<p class="caption3"><i>CHOOSING AND BUYING FISH.</i></p> - - -<p>Before coming to this important part -of our subject, we would like to offer a -suggestion (in all courtesy, be it understood) -to our friends the fishmongers.</p> - -<p>Why do they, we would ask, invariably -establish themselves on the sunny side of -the road? Surely if any branch of trade -requires coolness and shade it is the fish -trade, yet how rare an exception to find -one so situated. Then we would respectfully -draw their attention to their way of -handling the fish. Often it receives most -unmerciful treatment, being knocked -about on the marble slab with a force -quite unnecessary. All fish suffer more -or less, but delicate fish, such as soles, -suffer in this way just as a ripe peach or -pear does if subjected to the same treatment. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">« 8 »</a></span> -The same difference can be -detected in the bruised part of fish as -in a bruised peach.</p> - -<p>Also a too liberal pouring-on of water -is injurious. No doubt the bright and -well-washed fish, surrounded with lumps -of ice, look far more tempting than the -boat-load all smeared with blood, yet the -fish would be much better if they did not -see fresh water until they are to be -dressed at home. In this matter, however, -the fishmonger is to a large extent -ruled by popular opinion, and if the latter -forbids the purchase of fish in their more -natural condition, he is perhaps justified -in endeavouring to suit the fancy of his -customers.</p> - -<p>In choosing fish care should be taken -not to judge too much by first appearances, -although, fortunately, fish, if not -fresh, soon tells its tale.</p> - -<p>If the eyes are dull, or the skin and the -scales rub off easily, <i>avoid that fish</i>. If -the skin is bright, the flesh firm to the -touch when pressed between the thumb -and finger, you may rely upon its being -fresh; stale fish, or that which has been -kept long in ice, is always flabby.</p> - -<p>One safe general direction for choosing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">« 9 »</a></span> -fish may be given in few words, viz., -<i>choose the plump ones</i>.</p> - -<p>A short fish, thick about the shoulders, -is much to be preferred to a long thin -one. Thick soles, or thick turbots, are far -preferable to thin ones. The same with -codfish.</p> - -<p>Lobsters and crabs should be chosen -by weight, and those of medium size are -best in flavour.</p> - -<p>There are one or two kinds of fish -which are positively improved by being -kept a day or two, notably skate and red -mullet.</p> - -<p>Mackerel, on the contrary, is a fish than -which none spoils more rapidly.</p> - -<p>The sole holds a first position among -flat fish, and is deservedly esteemed, as -its flesh is firm and delicate and very -easily digested, hence its great popularity -with the sick. It has also the advantage -of being obtainable all the year round in -good condition. The skin of the back is -sometimes dark, sometimes white, varying -with the nature of the ground on -which the fish feeds. Soles vary in size -from quite little slips, called "tongues," -to large fish weighing eight or nine -pounds per pair. Those in roe are rather -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">« 10 »</a></span> -insipid in flavour, and are best for filleting. -They vary in price, but are never a -<i>cheap</i> fish.</p> - -<p>Halibut is an excellent substitute for -turbot, which it rather resembles in -flavour, and is a comparatively cheap fish. -It is abundant in spring and summertime, -and always a favourite with Jewish -people. Being a very large fish, it is -rarely sold entire. The choice bits are -the flackers over the fins and the pickings -about the head.</p> - -<p>A fillet or "steak" is the most profitable -portion for general eating.</p> - -<p>Cod is at its best about Christmas time. -From the end of January to March it is -less good and not abundant; in May -again it is generally very fine. The best -are those which are plump and round at -the tail, the sides having a slightly ribbed -appearance, with yellow spots on a clear -skin.</p> - -<p>Large cod are not generally cooked -whole, being so much thicker at the head -than at the tail. The head and shoulders, -usually sold apart, form a handsome -dish.</p> - -<p>It is a very nourishing fish, valuable in -many ways, and if its "adaptabilities" -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">« 11 »</a></span> -were more understood it would be more -generally appreciated.</p> - -<p>The salmon has been called the "king -of fresh-water fish," yet, as before remarked, -it does not belong to this -category.</p> - -<p>The river is its birthplace, it is true, but -the sea is its pasture ground, where it -returns periodically to renew its strength. -It inhabits fresh and salt water alternately, -spending its summer in the river and its -winter in the sea. Just as the swallow -returns again to the same roof which -sheltered it, so the salmon returns again -to the same river. This fact has been -taken advantage of to naturalise salmon -in rivers where formerly there were no -signs of them. No stranger salmon -cruising along the coast will mistake -another river's mouth for the mouth of -its own river.</p> - -<p>The flesh is rich and delicious in -flavour, and to be eaten in perfection it -should be dressed as soon as caught; -there will then be found between the -flakes a creamy-white substance called -"curd," which is highly esteemed by -the epicure. Nevertheless, it is then -highly indigestible; to be perfectly wholesome -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">« 12 »</a></span> -eating the salmon should be kept -twenty-four hours, then the curd solidifies, -and though perhaps less delicate in flavour, -it is richer and far less likely to disagree.</p> - -<p>In season from February to August; it -is at its cheapest in July and August.</p> - -<p>Salmon trout, though resembling salmon -in flavour and appearance, are really -not at all the same species. They rarely -exceed two to three pounds in weight—generally -they are but three-quarters of a -pound. They are justly regarded as a -great delicacy, and are at their best in -spring and early summer. The flesh is -sometimes white, sometimes red; the -latter is the most prized.</p> - -<p>When choosing salmon trout examine -the inside of the throat through the gills. -If this is very red the flesh will prove to -be red, though not so red as salmon.</p> - -<p>There are two or three kinds of trout: -common, sea, and white trout. Sea trout -reaches a good size, white trout never -does. River trout are most delicious and -highly esteemed; the most delicate in -flavour are those which weigh from three-quarters -to one pound.</p> - -<p>Trout, which is in season from May to -September, is in perfection in June.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">« 13 »</a></span></p> - -<p>Carp and tench are pond rather than -river fish, and both have a great fondness -for burying themselves in mud, and owing -to this the flesh has often a slight muddy -taste; for this reason the fish should lie in -strong salt and water for a few hours, then -be well cleansed in clear spring water.</p> - -<p>Both are at their best in the winter -months. The tench, though a smaller -fish, is richer and more delicate than the -carp. They are useful fish to families -residing in the country.</p> - -<p>Although the pike attains to a considerable -size in England, it is small in comparison -with its brethren found in Russian -and Lapland waters. Indeed it more -truly deserves to be called a Russian fish, -so much more abundant and popular is it -there. In colour the skin is a pale olive-grey, -with several yellowish spots on the -sides, and the mouth is furnished with a -prodigious number of teeth, which has -earned for it the name of "fresh-water -shark."</p> - -<p>It was at one time a very popular article -of food, and is still considered a good fish -for the table. In some countries the fish -is salted and dried, and the roe made into -caviare.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">« 14 »</a></span></p> - -<p>The perch, which is one of the commonest -of our fresh-water fish, is also one -of the best. It is met with in almost all -lakes and rivers in temperate regions. -When full-grown it is a large fish, -although one weighing a pound is thought -a good size, and one of three pounds very -large. The flesh is white, firm, of a good -flavour, and easily digested.</p> - -<p>Perch are so tenacious of life, they may -be carried fifty miles and yet survive the -journey.</p> - -<p>Best used as soon as caught, they are -also better for being crimped as soon as -they leave the water. Their season is -from June to February.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the most commonly used fish -is the herring. Shoals of herring visit the -British Islands from the end of May till -October, and even occasionally during the -winter months. In the beginning of the -season the fish is rather oily, and often -found to be indigestible on that account, -but after the first few weeks this disappears, -and then it becomes both digestible -and nourishing.</p> - -<p>In choosing herrings take care that they -feel firm, and have bright eyes and scales.</p> - -<p>Sprats closely resemble herrings in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">« 15 »</a></span> -appearance and flavour, only they are but -a third of the size of the latter. They are -very abundant on the North British coasts, -and in Edinburgh and Glasgow are sold -by measure. Their best season is the -winter time, and their freshness may be -judged by their silvery appearance—or -otherwise.</p> - -<p>The highly esteemed smelt is a most -delicate fish. When fresh it possesses an -odour like a freshly-cut cucumber, but -this perfume passes away twelve hours -after it has been caught.</p> - -<p>The Dutch fisheries furnish very fine -smelts, and the baskets full of bright silvery -little bodies look very tempting in the -wholesale market. These are never what -may be called cheap fish. In season from -November to May. Smelts which have -been split and dried are called sparlings.</p> - -<p>Another fish which is cheap and plentiful -in the winter months is the haddock. -They seldom weigh more than from three -to four pounds, and the largest are considered -the best. They should be gutted -as soon as possible, and hung up to dry -with salt inside them. Scotch haddock -have the highest reputation.</p> - -<p>Among lesser known fish are the gurnet, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">« 16 »</a></span> -dory, and ling. All of them are -excellent eating. The dory resembles the -turbot in flavour, and the gurnet has firm -white flesh, of agreeable taste. In the -early spring months ling is captured in -large quantities off the Orkney and Shetland -Isles.</p> - -<p>Skate and plaice are both less thought -of in England than they deserve to be; in -France they are better appreciated. Skate -improves by being hung up for a day -before using. Young skate are called -"maids," and their flesh is tender and -delicate.</p> - -<p>Plaice is in good condition when the -body is thick and firm, the eyes bright, -and the pale side tinged with pink.</p> - -<p>Hake, or "white salmon," is a west-country -fish, common in Devonshire. In -season in the autumn months.</p> - -<p>Eels and lampreys, very rich, and not -over wholesome, are mostly food for the -epicure. They are useful in cookery -where a succulent dish is required. The -lamprey is but little met with in the -present day.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">« 17 »</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II">PART II.</a></h2> - -<p class="caption3"><i>THE COOKING OF FISH.</i></p> - - -<p>The recipes given in this part have been -gleaned from reliable sources. Many of -them are from French cooks, and are -strictly in accordance with the methods -in use in the best "cuisines," where the -cooking of fish receives great care and -attention.</p> - -<p>For greater convenience in reference -the recipes for preparing the different -kinds of fish are all classed under the -name of each kind, and the names given -in alphabetical order.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the only ways of properly -cooking fish are baking and broiling, yet -these are precisely the ways least practised—out -of France. Boiling and frying -have hitherto held too great a monopoly -in our methods. In the following pages, -while giving the latter modes their due -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">« 18 »</a></span> -share of attention, we beg to call for -special notice to be given to the examples -for <i>broiling</i>, &c., as they may be relied -upon to bring about a satisfactory result -if carefully followed.</p> - -<p>To begin with a few general directions:</p> - -<p>In broiling a perfectly clear fire is <i>absolutely -indispensable</i>; more so in the case -of fish than when intending to cook steak -or chops. A shovel-full of good cinders, -slightly wetted, and given sufficient time -to become red-hot, will generally ensure -a good surface heat, but a charcoal "braisière" -is <i>par-excellence</i> the fire for this -purpose, and no French housewife considers -her kitchen complete without this -little contrivance. A little charcoal -sprinkled over some hot coals is not a -bad substitute for it.</p> - -<p>A special gridiron should be kept for -fish only. After using, let it be thoroughly -washed and dried, and before using again -rub the bars over with a little oil; fish is -more easily marked, and apt to stick -sooner than meat.</p> - -<p>If the gridiron is not a double one, use -a pair of sugar-tongs with which to turn -the fish over; beware of sticking a fork -into it. There can be no doubt that -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">« 19 »</a></span> -grilling brings out a flavour which nothing -else will.</p> - -<p>What can surpass a fresh mackerel, -grilled after being split open and boned?</p> - -<p>An important point to bear in mind in -this method of cookery is, to <i>keep in the -flavour</i>. A slice of grilled salmon will -taste far nicer if the slice has been -wrapped in buttered paper; but cooking -anything in paper requires the greatest -care, as should there be the least flare the -paper will catch fire,—what is required is -a fierce heat.</p> - -<p>When baking fish <i>en papillot</i>, that is -wrapped in buttered paper, the chief -thing to bear in mind is not to spare the -butter. This, one of the most delicate -and delicious ways of cooking fish, is apt -to be entirely spoilt, because only a little -dab of butter is allowed. When fish -has been cooked in paper it should be -sent to table just as it is, paper and all. -Always use plain white note paper, never -printed.</p> - -<p>In boiling fish a very common fault is -omitting to put sufficient salt into the -water. In the case of large fish, salt -should be added in the proportion of half -a pound to a gallon of water; for smaller -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">« 20 »</a></span> -fish, a proportion of a quarter-pound to -the gallon is sufficient.</p> - -<p>It is now generally thought best to -place fish in nearly boiling water, then -allow it to come gently to the boiling -point again, this keeps in the flavour on -the same principle as the boiling of meat. -The time allowed depends entirely on the -size of the fish, but when the flesh shows -signs of being just able to be separated -from the bone, it is amply done.</p> - -<p>Experience is the only safe guide.</p> - -<p>To preserve the <i>whiteness</i> of white fish, -it is wise to rub them over with lemon-juice -before boiling.</p> - -<p>One method of boiling fish, when it is -intended for eating cold, which is much -approved of on the Continent, is to do it -in "court-bouillon," and if fresh-water -fish be cooked this way it is relieved of -much of its insipidity.</p> - -<p>One part of vinegar, one part of red -wine, to four parts of water, for the -"bouillon." To two quarts of the liquor -put an ounce of salt, half an ounce of -pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, a sliced -onion and a carrot. Sometimes a small -piece of salt bacon is also added. Let -these all boil together for some time, then -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">« 21 »</a></span> -strain the liquor and keep in a stone jar. -It will keep a long time if occasionally -re-boiled.</p> - -<p>The fish should be well covered with -the liquid when laid in the fish-kettle, and -allowed to boil gradually.</p> - -<p>To fry fish successfully it should be -literally <i>boiled</i> in fat. This cannot be -done over a slow or smoky fire, neither -can it be done unless an abundance of fat -be allowed. It is not an extravagant -method, even if the pan be a large one, -and it takes two or three pounds to fill it. -If carefully poured into a basin containing -boiling water after the fish has been -cooked, the loose breadcrumbs and other -particles will fall to the bottom, and the -fat form a clear white crust. When due -care is exercised there is no reason why -the same fat should not be used fifty times -over.</p> - -<p>Let it be quite boiling when the fish is -put in. This may be known by its perfect -stillness and the faint blue vapour which -will rise from it. When the fish has been -washed and carefully dried, flour it before -dipping into beaten egg, and use brown -raspings in preference to breadcrumbs.</p> - -<p>Lay a small piece of blotting-paper at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">« 22 »</a></span> -the bottom of the dish to absorb all -grease.</p> - -<p>Various recipes for <i>baking</i> fish are -given in the following pages. Perhaps -one of the nicest ways of doing fish in -the oven is <i>au gratin</i>. Briefly described, -this consists of a layer of mixed herbs and -breadcrumbs laid first at the bottom of a -well-buttered dish, the fish laid on this, -then the same ingredients with seasoning -and more butter over it. Very often a -glass of wine or vinegar is added.</p> - -<p>Anything cooked <i>au gratin</i> must always -come to table in the dish in which it -was cooked, hence the gratin-dish, sometimes -of silver, sometimes of polished tin -or fire-proof china, is another kitchen -requisite almost indispensable.</p> - -<p>When intending to use salted fish for -any dish it should always be allowed to -lie in water at least twenty-four hours -previously, and the water should be -changed frequently; then drain and dry -thoroughly.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">« 23 »</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="PART_III" id="PART_III">PART III.</a></h2> - -<p class="caption3"><i>TESTED RECIPES.</i></p> - - -<p><b>Anchovies</b> are the only fish which -come under this letter. They are usually -bought in pickle from grocers and oilmen, -and ought to soak in cold water before -they are used. The small, plump ones -are the best—the pickle is red, the scales -of the fish white. If cut into fillets and -added to sliced cucumber, hard-boiled egg, -also sliced, minced parsley and herbs, and -dressed with the usual salad dressing, -they form an acceptable variety in the -salad series.</p> - - -<p><b>Anchovies, Essence of</b> (home-made), is -made by beating to a paste half-a-pound -of anchovies, bones also, then adding a -pint of raisin wine to the paste and boiling -both together until it is dissolved. For -seasoning add a very small quantity of -cayenne pepper, two or three Jamaica -peppercorns and three or four shallots. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">« 24 »</a></span> -Home-made essence is greatly superior in -flavour to that which can be bought.</p> - - -<p><b>Anchovy Butter</b> is prepared by pounding -to a paste half-a-pound of anchovies -with half that weight of butter. A pinch -of cayenne is an improvement. This -butter is especially useful for flavouring -sauces for meat and fish, and if kept in -very small pots, closely covered, it will -remain good for some time. <i>Anchovy -Paste</i>, so much liked for sandwiches, is -made in the same way.</p> - - -<p><b>Anchovy Sauce.</b>—Two ounces of -butter melted, two tablespoonfuls of flour -mixed smoothly with it, a tumblerful of -boiling water. When this has boiled stir -in gradually three teaspoonfuls of the -essence of anchovies, and add the juice -of half a lemon; let all boil once more, -then pour into a tureen.</p> - - -<p><b>Barbel.</b>—This is but a poor fish, being -woolly and rather flavourless. It may be -made palatable by cutting in pieces, then -steeping in a marinade of oil, pepper and -salt, for half an hour, after which broil the -pieces over the fire, and serve with <i>maître -d'hôtel</i> butter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">« 25 »</a></span></p> - - -<p><b>Bloaters.</b>—The smoked bloaters should -be scalded with boiling water, then dried. -The bones can often be drawn off after -this, before cooking. They may either -be broiled over the fire for a moment, or -cooked in the oven with a morsel of -butter.</p> - -<p>Before broiling fresh bloaters split -them open down the middle, remove the -backbone and cleanse them. Sprinkle -with pepper and salt, and drop a morsel -of butter on each before bringing to table.</p> - - -<p><b>Bream</b> is a handsome, although not -a delicate fish. It must be thoroughly -cleansed and washed out with vinegar. -Split it open and remove the bone, but -do not scale it. It is best broiled, but is -excellent if stuffed with a little forcemeat, -then baked in the oven for twenty minutes. -Melted butter, caper sauce, or anchovy -sauce, must accompany it to table.</p> - - -<p><b>Brill.</b>—This fish has an excellent reputation, -resembling turbot so nearly; it -may be cooked in almost every way recommended -for the latter. Thick brill -are the best, and a yellowish hue in the -flesh denotes its freshness. Lay it in -salted water for a few minutes, then dry -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">« 26 »</a></span> -it and rub with the juice of a lemon. -When boiling brill allow plenty of salt in -the water, and half a teacupful of lemon -juice. Let it simmer gently after reaching -boiling point till just tender through. Lay -on a clean serviette, the white side uppermost, -garnish with cut lemon and parsley, -also a sprinkling of lobster coral.</p> - - -<p><b>Carp, Baked.</b>—After washing and -scaling, remove the inside of the carp, -squeeze over it the juice of one or two -lemons and let it lie thus for an hour. -Next place it in a baking tin, sprinkle -some minced parsley and shallots over it, -also pepper and salt, then pour a little -oiled butter over all. Cover with white -paper and bake for upwards of forty -minutes—gently. Make a little thick -melted butter, enrich it further with a -spoonful of cream, stir in the juice of half -a lemon, and more salt and pepper—cayenne -if liked. Lift the carp on to a -dish, pour this sauce over it, garnish with -chopped gherkins and lobster coral.</p> - - -<p><b>Carp, Fried.</b>—Cut the fish into fillets -after having thoroughly cleansed it. Roll -each fillet in flour seasoned with salt and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">« 27 »</a></span> -cayenne. Fry in a depth of boiling fat, -serve with anchovy sauce.</p> - - -<p><b>Carp, Grilled.</b>—Only very small carp -can be cooked this way, and they should -be wrapped in buttered papers, after -having been washed and emptied. Serve -with a piquant sauce of minced herbs, -lemon-juice and butter.</p> - - -<p><b>Carp, Stewed.</b>—Carp are excellent -treated this way if rather large. After -washing in vinegar and water, cut the fish -into fair-sized pieces, roll each piece in -seasoned flour, then lay in a covered -stewpan, and pour a tumblerful of white -wine over them. Allow nearly an hour -for the cooking, then when done remove -the pieces of fish carefully on to a dish, -stir in a tablespoonful of grated horseradish, -a little cream, and the beaten yolk -of an egg into the sauce, and pour it over -the carp.</p> - -<p>If boiled in "court-bouillon," carp is -equally good for eating cold.</p> - - -<p><b>Caveach Fish.</b>—Clean some large fish, -such as cod or salmon, then cut them into -slices. Rub each slice with salt, pepper -and spice, and fry in boiling fat till lightly -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">« 28 »</a></span> -browned. Let them drain and get quite -cold, then lay in deep jars. Boil some -vinegar with a few shallots, peppercorns, -a bay leaf and blade of mace; when this -is cold fill the jars nearly full with this, -pour a little salad oil on the top and cover -closely. They will keep for months, and -when required the slices are lifted out, -placed in the centre of a dish with dressed -salad round them.</p> - - -<p><b>Clams.</b>—Clams, which are a species of -cockle, were declared by the great Soyer -to be superior to the oyster in flavour. -They are very nice if fried, after dipping -into beaten egg and breadcrumbs. In -America they are stewed. Put into a -stewpan with a little water, they are -boiled for a few minutes, then seasoned -with pepper and salt.</p> - - -<p><b>Cockles.</b>—Cockles should be roasted -on a tin laid on the top of a stove; they -are eaten whilst hot with bread and -butter. They require to be well washed, -and the shells scrubbed with a brush.</p> - - -<p><b>Cod, Baked.</b>—Take a piece weighing -about three pounds out of the middle of -a large fish. Make a simple forcemeat -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">« 29 »</a></span> -of breadcrumbs, minced parsley, thyme, -seasoning, and the yolk of an egg; put -this inside the fish and sew it up. Place -in a baking-dish, and surround with a -carrot sliced, and also a turnip and small -onion. Pour a spoonful of vinegar over, -and place two or three lumps of butter on -the top; bake for twenty minutes. Remove -the vegetables, but serve the liquor -with the fish instead of sauce.</p> - - -<p><b>Cod, Fried à la Maître d'Hôtel.</b>—Take -two or three slices of cod about an -inch and a half in thickness, let them lie -in salt water for half an hour, then drain -and dry them. Cover with seasoned flour, -and fry in a quantity of boiling fat for a -few minutes. Pile in pyramid form on a -hot dish, pouring the following sauce -round them: two tablespoonsful of fresh -green parsley chopped small, two ounces -of butter, half an ounce of flour, a little -salt, pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar; -add a little water if it thickens too much. -Mix the ingredients well, let them boil up -once, then serve.</p> - - -<p><b>Cod, à la Crème.</b>—The remains of -boiled cod will do excellently well for -this, or if fresh fish is used it must be first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">« 30 »</a></span> -boiled till tender, then broken into flakes, -all skin and bone removed. Into a saucepan -put a pint of milk with a teaspoonful -of salt and the rind of a lemon. Let this -boil once, then pour off into a basin. In -the saucepan melt an ounce of butter and -stir in smoothly an ounce of flour, add a -pinch of cayenne pepper, then the milk, -and boil all together until thick. Put in -the flakes of cod to heat through, then -pour all on to a hot dish, garnish with -tufts of parsley, and pass round strips of -toasted bread to eat with it.</p> - - -<p><b>Cod, Curried.</b>—Take the remains of -cold boiled cod broken into flakes, fry -them a moment in butter. Lay them -aside on a hot plate and prepare the -curry. For this put an ounce of butter -into a saucepan and slice into it two -shallots and one small apple. When -these have frizzled brown stir in a tablespoonful -of flour, half a teaspoonful of -curry powder, the same of salt, and a -pinch of cayenne pepper, and lastly a teacupful -of stock. Let this boil a few minutes, -then put in the cod to warm up, and serve -quickly. A wall of boiled rice round the -edge of the dish is an improvement.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">« 31 »</a></span></p> - - -<p><b>Cod, Salted, with Parsnips.</b>—Take a -couple of pounds of salted cod, let it soak -for twenty-four hours, then drain, and -pouring fresh cold water over it let it heat -through gradually. It should simmer until -tender, but must not boil, or it will become -hard. Drain again, lay on a hot dish, -garnish with boiled parsnips cut into -lengths, and cover all with egg sauce, -made as follows: half a pint of milk -thickened with flour, a small bit of butter, -salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and -two hard-boiled eggs chopped small and -stirred in. Garnish the dish with parsley.</p> - - -<p><b>Cod, Salted, en Mousse.</b>—Soak and -cook the cod as in the previous recipe, -then drain and break into flakes. Frizzle -a slice of a Spanish onion in a small -quantity of butter, but do not brown it. -Scald the soft part of a slice of white -bread, break it with a fork, then add to -the onion, and at the same time add -gradually a cupful of new milk. Continue -to beat until all is quite smooth, sprinkle -with salt and pepper, then add the flakes -of cod, still continuing to beat. If becoming -too stiff add more milk. When -all is light and like a froth, pour on to a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">« 32 »</a></span> -dish and dot small bits of fried or toasted -crusts about the surface.</p> - - -<p><b>Cod, Head and Shoulders Boiled.</b>—A -portion or the whole of a large fish, -when intended for boiling, should be previously -crimped, when it should receive -some deep cuts as far as the bone on both -sides. Afterwards it should lie in vinegar -and water for half an hour. It should be -plunged at once into boiling water, then -allowed to simmer till just tender. Drain, -and serve on a white d'oyley, garnished -with lemon and parsley. Crimping renders -the flesh firmer, and makes it easier both -to cook and to serve.</p> - - -<p><b>Crab.</b>—The crabs which have a rough -shell and claws are the best. When -choosing one shake it well; if it rattle it -is sure to prove watery. The shell should -be of a bright red, and the eyes look clear. -In picking out the meat from the shell -and claws leave out the part near the -head, which is not fit to be eaten.</p> - - -<p><b>Crab, Hot Buttered.</b>—Pick the meat -from the shell of a crab, mix with half its -quantity of breadcrumbs, a little pepper, -salt, grated nutmeg, a spoonful of salad -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">« 33 »</a></span> -oil and the same of vinegar. Clean the -empty shell, then refill it with this mixture, -sprinkle more crumbs over the top, then -a nob of butter, and bake for nearly ten -minutes. To eat with hot dry toast.</p> - - -<p><b>Crab, Salad.</b>—Pick the meat from the -shell into flakes, make a pile in the centre -of a dish, leaving the claws on the top; -surround with shred lettuce and watercress, -and pour a simple salad dressing -over all.</p> - - -<p><b>Crab Soup, or Potage Bisque.</b>—This -is most delicious and delicate. Choose a -nice heavy crab, pick out the meat from -the claws into shreds. The soft meat from -the inside of the body is pounded in a -mortar with half its quantity of boiled -rice; this is thinned a little with some -clear stock, then passed through a colander. -Put this into a stewpan with -sufficient stock to make the required -quantity (veal stock is preferable), add -a cupful of thickened cream, salt to -taste, and a little cayenne pepper, let it -boil once only, then take from the fire -and add the shredded meat from the -claws. A little lobster butter stirred in -will make it a richer colour.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">« 34 »</a></span></p> - -<p>Make potage from lobster or crayfish -in exactly the same manner. The result -will be almost as satisfactory.</p> - - -<p><b>Crayfish.</b>—Crayfish resemble lobsters -in flavour, but they are smaller, and the -flesh is more delicate. Those which are -red under the claws are the best. Wash -them well, and boil in salt water for ten -minutes, after which they will become a -bright red. Drain well, then pile in -pyramid form, and garnish with parsley.</p> - -<p>A pretty dish may be made from them -by preparing a clear savoury jelly, and -arranging the crayfish in a fancy mould—minus -the tails—filling in all spaces with -the jelly.</p> - - -<p><b>Crayfish, as a Breakfast Relish.</b>—Remove -the tails from a pint of crayfish, -put the bodies to simmer gently in a -saucepan with an ounce of butter, a -teacupful of water, a spoonful of vinegar, -grate of nutmeg, and a little salt and -pepper. Simmer for ten minutes, thicken -with flour, and pour over a slice of toast.</p> - -<p>Crayfish may also be potted like -shrimps.</p> - - -<p><b>Dabs.</b>—These insignificant little fish -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">« 35 »</a></span> -are caught in the mouths of rivers near -the sea. They are nice if fried, but more -tasty if wrapped in buttered paper and -baked for fifteen minutes. Send to table -with sliced lemon.</p> - - -<p><b>Dace.</b>—This fish scarcely repays the -trouble of cooking, and is usually only -enjoyed by the angler who has caught it. -It may be either fried or boiled. A little -sharp sauce with lemon juice and mustard -are almost necessary accompaniments.</p> - - -<p><b>Dory.</b>—Although by no means a handsome -fish, yet the dory has a flavour -which makes it excellent eating. It is -best boiled, or rather <i>simmered</i>, after it -has boiled once, twenty minutes for a -fair-sized fish. Serve on a napkin, garnished -with parsley. Anchovy, shrimp, -or caper sauce, are all suitable for serving -with boiled dory.</p> - - -<p><b>Eels, en Matelote.</b>—Skin and clean -about two pounds of eels, divide into -pieces of two inches long, let them lie -in salt water while some onions are being -fried in butter. When the onions have -browned, stir in flour to absorb all the -butter, then a cupful of stock and the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">« 36 »</a></span> -same of red wine, a few mushrooms, -pepper and salt, and a pinch of herbs. -Stew the eels in this gravy until thoroughly -tender, about forty minutes. Serve altogether.</p> - - -<p><b>Eels, Boiled, for Invalids.</b>—When -the skin has been drawn off the eel, and -it has lain in salt water to cleanse it, it -should be placed before a clear fire for -ten minutes to draw out the oil. Wash -again in warm water, and set to boil in -a saucepan with a bunch of parsley and -spoonful of salt. When tender take it -out, divide into lengths, thicken a small -quantity of the broth, add cream and -chopped parsley, and pour over the eel.</p> - - -<p><b>Findon, or "Finnan," Haddocks.</b>—The -Findon haddock, so highly esteemed -for its delicate flavour, may be distinguished -by its odour and creamy yellow -colour. The skin should be stripped off, -and the fish broiled quickly over a clear -fire. Rub butter over it before bringing -to table.</p> - - -<p><b>Flounders.</b>—Flounders may be boiled, -baked, fried, or stewed. As they are apt -to have a slight muddy flavour, they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">« 37 »</a></span> -should lie in salt water for a while. -Perhaps the nicest way of cooking them -is to dip them into beaten egg, cover -with raspings, and boil them in fat.</p> - -<p>Flounders may also be done <i>au -gratin</i>, by laying the fish (neatly trimmed) -on a bed of chopped shallots and parsley, -breadcrumbs and butter, covering them -with the same, then adding a glass of white -wine, and baking for twenty minutes. -Allow at least one for each person.</p> - - -<p><b>Gurnet.</b>—The head of the gurnet is -large in comparison with the rest of the -body. It is apt to be a dirty fish, and -needs very thorough cleansing. The gills -should be cut off. Perhaps the best way -of cooking it is to remove the head and -the inside, stuff it with a forcemeat, sew -the body up and lay it in a deep tin, -covering with a slice or two of salt fat. -Bake for half an hour, then remove on -to a hot dish, and pour <i>maître d'hôtel</i> -butter over it.</p> - - -<p><b>Haddock, Broiled.</b>—Draw and clean -the haddock very thoroughly, wiping it -perfectly dry. Dredge with flour, then -pour a little salad oil over it. Lay on the -gridiron and broil quickly. When brown -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">« 38 »</a></span> -and crisp it is done. Serve with anchovy -sauce.</p> - - -<p><b>Haddock, Baked.</b>—Empty and wash -the fish, scaling it carefully; let it lie in -vinegar for fifteen minutes, then dry it, -dredge with flour, cover with beaten -egg, then with breadcrumbs, and lay in -a greased baking-dish. Pour melted -butter over it, and bake about twenty -minutes. The gravy which comes from -the fish may be seasoned and sent to -table with it. Garnish with cut lemons.</p> - - -<p><b>Haddock, Curried.</b>—Choose small -haddocks for this purpose. Split them -open, remove bones and the head, divide -into convenient-sized pieces. Dip each -piece into seasoned flour and fry till crisp -and brown. Prepare a curry sauce by -frizzling a small onion and an apple in -butter, thickening with flour, adding -seasoning and a little curry powder and -clear stock to make the requisite quantity. -Put the fish into this sauce to heat through, -then pile in the centre of a dish and pour -the sauce over. Garnish with rice.</p> - - -<p><b>Halibut.</b>—Being very large fish, perhaps -the most satisfactory way of dealing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">« 39 »</a></span> -with halibut is to cut them into steaks, -viz., slices across the fish of any thickness -desired. They may be either broiled or -fried. When broiling, sprinkle them with -seasoning, and let them lie in salad oil -for a few minutes, then drain and broil -quickly over a bright fire. Lay on a hot -dish, squeeze lemon juice over, and -sprinkle with chopped parsley.</p> - -<p>For frying, the steaks may be either -dredged with flour, or dipped in egg -and breadcrumbs, then fried in a shallow -depth of fat till lightly brown. Drain on -blotting paper, and send shrimp or -anchovy sauce to table with them.</p> - -<p>Boiling is the least satisfactory way of -cooking halibut, but if it be chosen, have -the fish in one thick piece. Put into -boiling water, and simmer gently until -the fish shows signs of parting from the -bone.</p> - - -<p><b>Halibut Pie.</b>—Take a piece of the -middle of the fish, remove all skin, and -cut into pieces an inch square. Roll each -piece in a mixture of salt, pepper, and -breadcrumbs, place in a pie-dish with -lumps of butter at the top. Pour a glass -of white wine over. Cover with a "short" -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">« 40 »</a></span> -crust, and when this has baked until well -brown, the fish also will be done.</p> - - -<p><b>Herrings, Boiled.</b>—Few fish are more -delicious than fresh herrings boiled. -Wash, scale, and empty them very particularly. -Souse them with vinegar, then -drop into boiling salted water, simmer for -about ten minutes, and lift them out the -moment they are done. Drain them, -arrange nicely on a clean napkin, garnish -with parsley and horseradish, and serve -parsley sauce with them.</p> - - -<p><b>Herrings, Broiled.</b>—Let them lie in -salt overnight, wash them, empty, and -split them open. Dry thoroughly, and -dredge a little flour over them. Lay on -an oiled gridiron, broil on both sides. -Lay each one separately on a hot plate, -and place a morsel of butter on the top. -Then pour the following sauce over them: -a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the -same of minced herbs, and a "suspicion" -of onion, same of butter, a teaspoonful of -salt and pepper mixed, a wineglassful of -vinegar; boil altogether for a moment.</p> - - -<p><b>Herrings, Pickled</b> (to eat cold).—Scale -and clean the herrings carefully, split -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">« 41 »</a></span> -them open and take out the backbone. -Sprinkle with salt and pepper after laying -in a deep dish. Cover with vinegar and -water. Bake till tender through.</p> - - -<p><b>Herrings, Pickled</b> (French mode).—Scale -and clean the herrings, empty -without splitting them. Cut off the -heads, and put the fish into an earthern -jar, strew salt liberally over them; let -them lie twenty-four hours. Drain them -and place them in an enamelled saucepan -with a dozen peppercorns, a bay-leaf or -two, and an onion with a clove. Cover -with cold vinegar. Let them come to -boiling point, and boil two minutes only. -Stand aside until quite cold, when they -may be placed in a covered jar. They -will keep good for some time.</p> - - -<p><b>Lampreys, Stewed.</b>—Rub the lamprey -well with salt, and wash it in water -(warm) to get rid of the slime. Cut off -the head, tail, and gills, empty it, then -cut into pieces three inches long. Slice -three or four onions into the bottom of a -stewpan, dip each piece of lamprey into -flour, and lay over the onions. Add next -a dozen mushrooms, a tablespoonful of -chopped parsley, grated lemon-rind and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">« 42 »</a></span> -a little juice, pepper, and salt. A glassful -of red wine and sufficient stock to cover -the whole, replace the lid, and stew -gently for two hours. Serve altogether.</p> - - -<p><b>Ling, Baked.</b>—Cleanse and empty the -fish, cut it into thick slices, removing the -head and tail. Dredge the slices with -flour, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. -Lay them in a baking-dish, and pour -some melted butter over them. Bake for -twenty minutes, place the slices of fish -on a hot dish, then add a cupful of cream -and a small tinful of button mushrooms -to the butter, make thoroughly hot and -pour over the fish just before bringing to -table.</p> - -<p>Or, the slices of ling may be dipped -into beaten egg, covered with raspings, -and fried in hot fat, a <i>sauce rémoulade</i> -being brought to table with them.</p> - - -<p><b>Lobster, à la Crème.</b>—Pick the meat -from a fresh lobster without breaking -the shell; cut it into dice. Put into an -enamelled saucepan with a mixed teaspoonful -of salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a glassful -of white wine, a tablespoonful of vinegar, -and an ounce of butter rolled in flour. -Simmer gently for ten minutes, stirring -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">« 43 »</a></span> -all the time. Then stir in two tablespoonfuls -of thickened cream. Pour the -mixture into the shell of the lobster, -cover the top with breadcrumbs, brown -quickly in the oven, then set the shell on -a folded napkin, and garnish with parsley.</p> - - -<p><b>Lobster Cutlets.</b>—A large lobster is -required for these. Boil for five minutes, -then crack the shell and take out the -meat as whole as possible. Cut this -across in slices a quarter of an inch in -thickness. Dip each slice into beaten -egg and breadcrumbs, sprinkle with salt -and pepper, and fry in fat for about five -minutes. Make a small mound of whipped -potato for the centre of a dish, arrange -the cutlets round this, and send oyster -sauce to table with them.</p> - - -<p><b>Lobster Patties.</b>—Boil a lobster for -fifteen minutes. Crack it open and pick -the meat out into flakes. Put the flakes -into an enamelled saucepan with an ounce -of butter, a tablespoonful of cream, same -of white stock, and a teaspoonful of -essence of anchovies, a little seasoning -also, and a few dry breadcrumbs. Boil -up for a moment. Line some patty-pans -with good puff paste not rolled too thinly, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">« 44 »</a></span> -place a morsel of crumb of bread in the -middle before putting on the top crust; -bake the patties a bright brown, lift off -the top crust, take out the bread, fill with -the hot mixture, and replace the cover. -Serve very hot.</p> - - -<p><b>Lobster Salad.</b>—For this the lobster -is required very sweet and fresh; it -should have been boiled about twenty -minutes and then have become quite -cold. Crack the shell and remove the -meat as whole as possible, saving the -coral for garnishing. Divide the meat -into small neat pieces, seasoning each -with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Take two -lettuces with firm, white hearts, wipe -them clean with a cloth. They must be -crisp and perfectly dry. Place first a -layer of shred lettuce at the bottom of a -bowl, then a layer of seasoned lobster; -alternate till the stock is exhausted. Pour -the following dressing over all at the last -moment, and sprinkle the coral over the -surface. A fanciful outer edge may be -made of sliced eggs and beetroot, or -nasturtium flowers, radishes set in parsley, -&c.</p> - -<p><i>Dressing</i>.—The yolks of two eggs beaten -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">« 45 »</a></span> -until thick, a saltspoonful of salt, half of -pepper, same of made mustard. Beat in -slowly half a pint of oil and two spoonsful -of vinegar.</p> - - -<p><b>Lobster Butter, and Sauce.</b>—The -spawn and coral of a freshly-boiled hen -lobster, pounded together in a mortar -with twice their quantity of fresh butter -and a spice of cayenne pepper, makes -lobster butter. It should be of a bright -red colour. Keep in small pots well -covered, and in a cool place.</p> - -<p>For the sauce, make some good plain -melted butter, pick out a few flakes of -the white meat of a lobster, then stir in -a spoonful of the lobster butter. Do not -boil it after this, or the colour will be -spoilt. The juice of a lemon may be -added if liked.</p> - - -<p><b>Mackerel, Broiled.</b>—For a perfectly -fresh, small, plump mackerel, this is <i>the</i> -mode of cooking <i>par excellence</i>.</p> - -<p>Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and dry -them first with a cloth, then by hanging -up in the open air. Split them open -flat and carefully remove the backbone. -Smear them with salad oil, sprinkle them -with salt and pepper, wrap each one -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">« 46 »</a></span> -in a fold of buttered note-paper, and lay -on the gridiron. Broil carefully over a -clear <i>red</i> fire for twenty minutes, turning -occasionally. They may be broiled -without the paper, in which case -fifteen minutes will be more than long -enough, but will taste less delicate and -be less easily digested. Lay on a hot -dish, cover closely, and serve with or -without <i>maître d'hôtel</i> butter.</p> - - -<p><b>Mackerel, Baked.</b>—Large mackerel -are preferable for this mode. After cleaning -and taking out the roes, fill with the -following forcemeat:—Three ounces of -breadcrumbs, an ounce of finely-shred -beef suet, the same of chopped parsley, -a pinch of savoury herbs, minced chives, -and pepper and salt. Bind the mixture -with a beaten egg. When the fish has -been filled, sew the sides together with -strong thread, lay it on a baking dish, -dredge a little flour over it, and pour over -either some melted butter or clarified -fat. Bake twenty minutes. Serve with -the same butter to the which some -chopped parsley has been added, or with -a <i>sauce piquante</i>.</p> - - -<p><b>Mackerel, Boiled.</b>—Wash and empty -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">« 47 »</a></span> -them without splitting them more than -can be helped. Lay them in <i>hot</i> water -with plenty of salt. Let the water come -to a boil, then draw aside and simmer -them till the skin shows signs of breaking. -Drain, and serve on a clean serviette. -Garnish with parsley. Serve either -parsley or fennel sauce with them.</p> - - -<p><b>Mullet, Red.</b>—These fish are much the -best if cooked in buttered paper. They -may be roast, baked, or boiled—all ways -are excellent if the precaution of wrapping -up be observed. A liberal share of -butter should be enclosed with them. -The gills and fins only are removed; the -inside remains untouched, as the liver -is much esteemed. Cook them about -twenty-five minutes, take out of the -papers, and serve with plenty of sauce -in a tureen. Add the liquor which has -oozed from the fish to some plain melted -butter, with a spoonful of anchovy sauce, -a squeeze of lemon juice, and a glassful -of some good red wine.</p> - - -<p><b>Mullet, Red</b> (Broiled <i>à la maître -d'hôtel</i>).—Clean the mullet and empty -them, score them across in several places, -lay them to soak in a marinade of salad -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">« 48 »</a></span> -oil and minced sweet herbs—garlic also -if the taste is liked. Let them lie in this -for half an hour. Drain them, sprinkle -with salt and pepper, lay on a gridiron, -and broil over a clear fire, turning on -both sides.</p> - - -<p><b>Mullet, Grey.</b>—The grey mullet is but -seldom offered for sale. It is generally -thought much inferior to the red, and -is only seasonable during the heat of -summer. It may be cooked in any of -the ways given for mackerel or for red -mullet.</p> - - -<p><b>Oysters.</b>—Oysters are never so excellent -or so easy of digestion as when they -are eaten straight out of the newly-opened -shell. If carefully opened, and none of -the juice be spilt, they will need no -seasoning; but if it be preferred, salt and -pepper may be sprinkled over them, also -a squeeze of lemon juice. Brown bread -and butter is the usual accompaniment to -them.</p> - - -<p><b>Oysters, Browned in their own -gravy.</b>—This is a very dainty dish. Take -a dozen or more large oysters, open them -carefully, and pour the juice from each -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">« 49 »</a></span> -one into a cup. Take off the beards, dip -each oyster into beaten egg thickened -with flour. Brown them in a little butter, -lift them out, add the gravy from the cup -to the butter, thicken with flour, and -season with pepper and salt. Let it -simmer for two or three minutes, then -stir in the browned oysters; let them -heat through again, then pour over a slice -of toast.</p> - - -<p><b>Oysters, au Gratin.</b>—Butter a bright -tin or silver gratin-dish. Stir into a few -ounces of breadcrumbs a spoonful of -chopped parsley and sweet herbs with -seasoning. Sprinkle these thickly over -the butter, and moisten with white wine. -Then split open two dozen large oysters, -take off the beards, and lay each oyster -on the bed in the dish, pouring the juice -over as well. Cover them with a few -more crumbs, place three or four nobs of -butter on the top, and bake in a moderate -oven for ten minutes. Bring to table in -the dish.</p> - - -<p><b>Perch.</b>—The best way of dressing -perch is in <i>water souchy</i>. Remember -always to clean the perch first with a little -warm water to take off the slime, then -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">« 50 »</a></span> -lay them in cold salt water for an hour -or so. Pick out the smallest of the fish -for the <i>souchy</i>, empty them, cut into -pieces, boil them slowly with some -parsley-root, peppercorns, and salt. Strain -the broth (for the ingredients should boil -until a strong broth is obtained) through -a muslin. The large perch should be -crimped, after being cleaned, then placed -in the broth and simmered until just -tender. Drain them, serve in a deep dish -with a ladleful of the broth poured over -them, and garnished with green parsley. -A little fresh parsley, chopped, may be -introduced into the broth if liked.</p> - -<p>Perch may also be laid in a marinade -(after being cleansed) then broiled over -the fire. It is well if, after lifting them -out of the marinade, they are liberally -besprinkled with seasoned breadcrumbs -and herbs. Broil till lightly browned, lay -on a hot dish, a nob of butter on each, -and garnish. Serve a little sharp sauce -with them.</p> - -<p>If economy is not to be studied, they -are very nice if stewed in wine—sherry, -or equal parts of sherry and clear stock. -Lay the perch in a deep dish, and just -cover them with the above. Slice an -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">« 51 »</a></span> -onion very thinly, lay over them with a -few sprigs of parsley, thyme, a bay-leaf, -and some peppercorns, sprinkle liberally -with salt, and let them simmer gently -for about twenty minutes. Make a sauce -from the liquor by thickening it with -butter rolled in flour, and serve poured -over the fish.</p> - - -<p><b>Pike, Baked.</b>—Pike must be scaled -after washing them. To scale it easily, -first pour boiling water over the fish, then -plunge immediately into cold water, and -scrape briskly with the back of a knife. -Wipe the fish dry, then empty it, and fill -the cavity with a nicely seasoned forcemeat, -sew up the sides, and lay in a -baking dish. Lay several large lumps of -butter about it, and pour over a glassful -of white wine or clear broth. Bake it in -a moderate oven for half an hour—a large -fish will take even longer. It should be -basted frequently, being a dry fish. Good -beef dripping will answer as well as -butter. When done, lift the fish carefully -on to a hot dish, and thicken the gravy -with flour; add a spoonful of anchovy -sauce, the same of mushroom ketchup, -cayenne pepper, and salt. Let them boil -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">« 52 »</a></span> -up again, then stir in a spoonful of capers, -and pour the sauce into a tureen. The -fish may be garnished with horseradish, -fresh parsley, or small ripe tomatoes, if -available.</p> - -<p>Pike may be boiled, letting it lie in -vinegar some time previously, and placing -it in very hot water or stock, with an -onion and bunch of sweet herbs. Bring -to a boil, and then simmer until tender. -Serve it on a clean napkin with cut lemons -and parsley; send a sharp sauce to table -with it.</p> - -<p>The remains of cold boiled pike, or -slices cut from a fresh fish, may be dipped -into egg and breadcrumbs and fried in -fat. They will be found very good, especially -if accompanied by a dish of green -vegetable, as spinach, or a fresh salad.</p> - - -<p><b>Plaice.</b>—Perhaps the very nicest way -of dressing plaice is to cut the fish into -fillets, then to dip these into beaten egg -and raspings, and fry them. Place each -fillet on a round of fried bread, and put -a tiny pat of anchovy butter on the top -of each, giving a sprinkle of pepper and -salt as well, and thus they will be found -to be very appetising.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">« 53 »</a></span></p> - - -<p><b>Plaice, au Gratin.</b>—Steep the fish in -salt water for an hour or two, cleanse and -empty it, leaving the head untouched. -Dry it thoroughly, and take a dish that -will just hold it. First melt a little beef -dripping in that, then put a layer of -crumbs, a tablespoonful of finely-minced -suet, parsley, shallots, and seasoning. On -this lay the plaice, white side uppermost, -cover with the same order, and squeeze -the juice of a lemon over the top. Set in -the oven, which should be hot enough -to brown the surface quickly. Twenty -minutes is ample for a good-sized fish. -Serve in the same dish.</p> - - -<p><b>Plaice, Boiled.</b>—Large plaice should -be chosen for boiling. Cut a slit from -the head downwards through the middle -of the back, to prevent the white side -breaking. Lay it in the fish-kettle with -sufficient <i>cold</i> water to cover it, and a -teacupful of vinegar. Let it come quickly -to boiling point, then simmer for about -five minutes longer. Serve with shrimp -or caper sauce.</p> - - -<p><b>Prawns.</b>—Prawns much resemble -shrimps, but are larger in size and more -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">« 54 »</a></span> -delicate in flavour. When fresh they are -of a bright red colour, and very firm.</p> - - -<p><b>Prawn Soup.</b>—Mince together till -quite fine, a carrot, onion, stick of celery, -and small turnip. Melt a little butter in a -stewpan, put in the vegetables and let -them simmer for a quarter of an hour, -stirring well about. Heat a quart of clear -stock, take a thick slice of white bread -and cut it into dice, leaving out the crust, -let it boil in the liquor, then add the -vegetables with the butter, and a tablespoonful -of salt. Boil all together. Take -fifty prawns, pick out the tails, and stew -the bodies in a glass of wine, press them -through a colander and mix with the -soup. Add then a pinch of cayenne -pepper, a teaspoonful of anchovy butter, -and a dessert-spoonful of lemon juice. -Allow all to boil five minutes longer, and -pour over fried croutons into a tureen.</p> - - -<p><b>Ray, or Maids.</b>—This fish is the -young skate, and, like the latter, it is -improved by being hung for a day. It is -nicest if cut into fillets and fried. It may -be boiled for a few minutes in "court-bouillon," -or, after being par-boiled, it -may be cut into slices, dipped in oil, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">« 55 »</a></span> -dredged with flour, and laid on a gridiron -to broil for a few moments longer. -Minced parsley and shallots simmered in -butter, with a tablespoonful of vinegar, -and seasoning of pepper and salt, should -form a gravy to accompany the fillets.</p> - - -<p><b>Roach.</b>—The roach is a small fresh-water -fish of a firm compact flesh. It is -best fried. Wash and empty the fish, -dredge flour over them when dry, fry -them in hot fat for about five minutes. -Send anchovy or some very tasty sauce to -table with them.</p> - - -<p><b>Salmon.</b>—For boiling purposes choose -salmon with small heads and thick -shoulders, or if buying only a portion of a -fish, choose a piece of the middle or the -head and shoulders.</p> - -<p>After cleaning the fish, cut off the fins -and gills and scrape the scales carefully. -Lay it in <i>nearly</i> boiling water with plenty -of salt in it; let the water well cover the -fish. Allow the water to come to boiling -point, then boil gently until a silver fork -will pass through the thickest part. As a -general rule allow eight minutes to the -pound if the fish is a thick one, five or six -minutes if it be a thin one. Experience -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">« 56 »</a></span> -is the only safe guide. It is well to wrap -the fish in a thin linen cloth before putting -it in the pan; only be careful in removing -the cloth when the fish is done, lest it be -broken. Lay the fish on a folded napkin, -and garnish with tufts of parsley, tomatoes, -and a few prawns.</p> - - -<p><b>Salmon, Broiled.</b>—For broiling purposes -slices across the fish about an inch -thick are preferable. If nicely cut and -rubbed with a little melted butter, -sprinkled with pepper and salt, laid on -the gridiron and broiled on both sides over -a very clear hot fire, turning every two or -three minutes till done, then laid on a hot -dish with a pat of fresh butter on each -cutlet, and garnished with whatever is -best obtainable, they are indeed truly -admirable. Shrimp sauce, or <i>maître -d'hôtel</i> butter might accompany them. A -dish of green peas, either plainly boiled, -or sautéd in butter, is a most delicious -accompaniment to salmon cutlets.</p> - - -<p><b>Salmon, Baked.</b>—Take a piece two or -three pounds in weight, either from the -middle or the tail end. Lay it in a deep -pie-dish, surround it with a few small -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">« 57 »</a></span> -shallots and sound red tomatoes, dredge -a little flour over it, sprinkle with pepper -and salt, lay several small pats of butter -on the top, and pour a glassful of white -wine into the dish. Place the dish in a -moderately hot oven and bake for from -three-quarters to an hour. When done, -lift the fish on to a dish and keep hot -while preparing the sauce. Press the -tomatoes and shallots through a colander -or hair sieve, add to the liquor in the dish, -with also a teaspoonful each of made -mustard, vinegar, flour, and Worcestershire -sauce; let this boil up once, then -pour round the fish. Garnish with curled -parsley and a few choice tomatoes. Serve -whipped potatoes with it, and cucumbers -sliced in vinegar.</p> - - -<p><b>Salmon Crumbs.</b>—A dish much liked -in the North of Ireland.</p> - -<p>The remains of cold boiled salmon are -divided into flakes and mixed with half -their quantity of stale breadcrumbs, a -tablespoonful of fresh butter, pepper, salt, -a spoonful of vinegar, and one or two -beaten eggs. Butter a shallow pie-dish, -strew with crumbs, then press the mixture -into it, and bake till brown. Any nice -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">« 58 »</a></span> -sauce, or a freshly-dressed salad, may be -served with this dish.</p> - - -<p><b>Salmon Fritters.</b>—Take the remains -of cold cooked salmon, remove the skin -and bone and break the flesh into flakes. -Mix with these an equal quantity of -mashed potatoes, add pepper and salt -and an egg to bind the whole together. -Make the mixture into small flat cakes or -fritters, coat each one with beaten egg, -and dredge with flour; melt a little nice -dripping in a shallow frying-pan, fry the -fritters first on one side, then on the -other, till they are a nice brown colour, -drain and keep hot while preparing the -following:—The heart of a crisp white -lettuce, shred, and piled in the centre of a -dish, two hard-boiled eggs shelled and -minced small, strewn over this; make a -dressing with salt and pepper, one spoonful -of vinegar and two of oil, the whole of -a shallot, some chives and parsley finely -minced, all mixed together, then poured -over the lettuce. Sprinkle a little lobster -coral over the surface, place the fritters -round the base, and serve at once. This -is a nice supper dish.</p> - - -<p><b>Salmon Trout.</b>—These are rightly -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">« 59 »</a></span> -esteemed a great delicacy. They may be -dressed and served according to the -recipes given for salmon, although boiling -is the least suitable method. As they -seldom exceed two or three pounds in -weight, it scarcely repays to fillet them. -For broiling they may be treated like -mackerel, but, better still, when they have -been duly cleansed and scaled, wrap them -in buttered paper, and either bake them -in the oven or broil them on the gridiron. -Baking is the best method of cooking -salmon trout, but, when small, they are -very good if dipped bodily into batter, -then plunged into boiling fat, and served -with <i>maître d'hôtel</i> sauce.</p> - - -<p><b>Salmon Trout, Baked and Stuffed.</b>—A -good-sized trout is very nice if baked -as follows:—After emptying and scaling -the fish, fill the cavity with a stuffing of -breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs, and an egg -to mix it; sew the sides together if -necessary. Lay in a baking dish, dredge -with flour, place butter on the top, put -a tablespoonful of vinegar and one of -stock into the dish, and bake in the oven -from twenty minutes to half an hour. Lift -the fish out on to a dish, thicken the liquor -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">« 60 »</a></span> -with flour, add seasoning, a spoonful of -chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of anchovy -essence, and pour this sauce round the -fish. New potatoes, green peas, or baked -tomatoes should accompany this dish.</p> - - -<p><b>Sardines.</b>—Tinned sardines are generally -eaten without any further preparation, -although very nice sandwiches may -be made from them, also they are an -indispensable adjunct to a fish salad.</p> - -<p>Fresh sardines should be first cleansed, -then dried in a soft cloth, laid on the -gridiron and broiled for about two -minutes. Sprinkle salt and pepper and a -dash of vinegar over them, and serve very -hot on toasted bread.</p> - - -<p><b>Shad.</b>—Shad does not enjoy a very -high reputation in England; in France it -is quite a favourite fish and is thought -worthy of being cooked in wine, and -served with Béchamel sauce. Its best -season is the early spring-time, March to -May. The French way of cooking it is to -split it open, after emptying, scaling, and -washing it, then to lay it in oil, with -pepper and salt. After it has soaked in -this marinade for a sufficient time, it is -laid on the gridiron, and broiled <i>very -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">« 61 »</a></span> -slowly</i>, on both sides, for upwards of an -hour. Served with <i>maître d'hôtel</i> butter -or caper sauce. Shad may be fried after -first trimming into convenient-sized pieces -and dipping each piece in frying batter. -It may also be stuffed and baked according -to instructions given for salmon trout.</p> - - -<p><b>Shrimps.</b>—There are several varieties -of shrimps. The two kinds most commonly -met with are the brown and the -red shrimps. The brown kind is caught -nearest to the shore in the shallower -pools, and has the strongest flavour. The -red shrimp is generally much smaller -in size and more refined in flavour. -When freshly boiled, shrimps are excellent -as a breakfast relish, but when -stale they are far from wholesome. Allow -a good handful of coarse salt to the quart -of water when boiling; as soon as they -have attained a nice colour they are done.</p> - - -<p><b>Shrimps, Potted.</b>—In potting shrimps, -after they have been well boiled, take care -to pick off both heads and tails and to -twist them dexterously out of the shells. -As a good quantity of shrimps are required -to make a small amount, it is as -well to benefit by an opportunity of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">« 62 »</a></span> -shrimp sauce being required, and so set -aside the heads and tails to be used for -the latter purpose. After having thoroughly -pounded the bodies of the shrimps in a -mortar, put in a small saltspoonful of salt -and the same of pepper, and one or two -ounces of fresh butter. Pound all well -together, press into small pots, and pour -clarified butter on the surface to exclude -the air.</p> - -<p>Shrimp butter is made in the same way, -only adding an <i>equal</i> quantity of butter -to the paste. Neither of these will keep -good many days.</p> - - -<p><b>Shrimp Forcemeat</b>, for stuffing sea or -fresh-water fish.</p> - -<p>Shred some shrimps and add to them -an equal quantity of fresh breadcrumbs. -To a tablespoonful of fresh butter add a -saltspoonful of seasoning, and a beaten -egg. Make the shrimps and crumbs into -a stiff paste with this. Particularly good -as a forcemeat for pike and carp.</p> - - -<p><b>Shrimp Patties.</b>—(The same mixture -is used for shrimp "vol-au-vent"). Pick -off the heads and tails from freshly-boiled -shrimps, and shell them. Put the shells -into a saucepan, cover them with water, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">« 63 »</a></span> -and boil gently for a quarter of an hour. -Strain the liquor, then thicken it with a -teaspoonful of arrowroot, add the yolk of -an egg, salt and pepper to taste, a small -nob of butter, stir all together over the -fire; when it is of the consistency of cream, -put in the bodies of the shrimps to heat -through and draw the saucepan to one -side until required. Make some good -puff paste, line the patty pans, and put a -morsel of soft bread in the middle before -putting on the cover. Bake the patties to -a nice brown, then remove the bread, replacing -it with a spoonful of the mixture, -put on the cover, brush over the surface -and edges with beaten yolk of egg and -water, return the patties to the oven to -heat them through again, then send to -table on a pretty d'oyley. They are very -good also for eating cold. If liked, the top -crust may be omitted, and a few breadcrumbs -be sprinkled over the top of the -mixture. Garnish the dish with curly -parsley and a few large shrimps.</p> - - -<p><b>Shrimp Canapés.</b>—A nice entrée. -Cut some small rounds from a stale loaf -of bread, fry them in oil or lard to a delicate -brown, then cover each with a layer -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">« 64 »</a></span> -of either potted shrimps or shrimp butter. -Hard boil two eggs. Remove the yolks, -and pound them with a small bit of butter -and a pinch of pepper and salt. Cut the -whites into thin strips. Lay the strips in -a lattice work over the rounds and place a -pat of the yellow mixture in the middle of -them, and a whole shrimp on that, or the -very tiniest sprig of parsley. Make a bed -of fresh dry parsley on a dish to lay the -rounds upon.</p> - - -<p><b>Skate.</b>—Skate is an unwholesome fish -if eaten out of season. Its best time is -during the winter months, and it is positively -improved by being kept for a day -or two hung up. However it is dressed it -should always be skinned first. The liver -is a choice morsel.</p> - -<p>A method of dressing skate which is -much liked by French people, is to do it -<i>à la Sainte Ménehould</i>. For this it should -be skinned and cut into neat pieces, then -simmered in white sauce till tender; the -pieces of fish should then be lifted out on -to a shallow dish, the sauce to receive the -addition of a yolk of egg and pinch of -cayenne pepper, then to be poured over -the fish, Parmesan or Cheshire cheese -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">« 65 »</a></span> -grated over the top. Set the dish in the -oven to get thoroughly hot again.</p> - -<p>For boiling, large skate are preferable -to small ones, and when possible they -should be crimped. (N.B.—Crimping can -only be done when the fish is perfectly -fresh.) It should be plunged into boiling -salt water, then gently simmered till -tender. Let it drain well.</p> - -<p>Boiled skate is very good served with -"Black Butter" sauce. For this last, a -quarter pound of butter should be allowed -to frizzle in a saucepan until of a light -brown colour, then a few washed and -dried parsley leaves should be thrown in, -a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, ditto of -mushroom ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, -and chopped capers, pepper and salt to -taste. Let these boil once, then either pour -over the fish or send to table in a tureen.</p> - -<p>Skate may also be fried, curried, or -stewed, according to directions given for -other fish.</p> - - -<p><b>Smelts.</b>—Smelts should be handled as -little as possible; not washed, but wiped -with a cloth. The inside should be -pulled out with the gills, as they must -not be opened.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">« 66 »</a></span></p> - -<p>It is most usual to fry smelts. Boiling -is not to be recommended, unless for an -invalid, in which case they should be put -into boiling water which contains a few -parsley leaves and a lump or two of sugar -as well as salt; four minutes cooking is -ample time. A little of the liquor in -which they were boiled should receive -the addition of cream and chopped -parsley, and be served with them.</p> - -<p>For frying, smelts should be first dipped -into beaten egg, then into mixed flour -and breadcrumbs, afterwards fried in a -good depth of boiling fat. Lift them out -with a slice, drain well, and garnish with -cut lemon.</p> - -<p>Smelts are delicious as a breakfast relish -if laid on a gridiron and broiled lightly on -both sides, then placed on a hot dish, -sprinkled with pepper and salt, lemon -juice squeezed over, and a pat of butter -placed on each.</p> - -<p>They may also be baked <i>au gratin</i>, and -served in the same dish.</p> - - -<p><b>Soles.</b>—The popular method of cooking -this favourite fish is to fry them. -Some persons declare it to be the best -method. If it be so or not, certain it is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">« 67 »</a></span> -that the following ways, when fairly -tried, will be found to compete very -closely in favour. <i>Very</i> large soles may -be boiled whole, and will be found most -agreeable eating, not unlike turbot in -flavour. When practicable, soles should -be cleansed a couple of hours before they -are wanted for cooking, wrapped in a -towel and laid in a cool place to stiffen. -The fishmonger will generally skin them; -if not, it is easy to draw the skin off the -back beginning at the head, gut them, and -take out the roe, if any.</p> - - -<p><b>Soles, Fried.</b>—Medium sized fish are -the best for frying whole, or if large they -should be filleted. After cleansing them -be careful to wipe <i>very</i> dry, then dip them -first into flour, next into beaten egg, and -cover with bread raspings. Fry quickly -in plenty of boiling fat. From five to ten -minutes is the time a moderate sized sole -will require—but when of a rich colour it -is generally cooked sufficiently. Lay on -a wire sieve or blotting-paper to drain -before putting on to a dish. Garnish -with cut lemons and parsley, either fresh -or fried.</p> - - -<p><b>Sole, Boiled.</b>—Let the sole be large, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">« 68 »</a></span> -thick, and firm; it should not weigh less -than two pounds. Wrap it in a clean -white cloth (a napkin which is too old for -table use is best), plunge it into boiling -salted water with a tablespoonful of -vinegar, let it boil very gently for about -seven or eight minutes, according to size, -then drain well, lay carefully on a clean -napkin. Garnish with sliced tomatoes -and lemons, and tufts of parsley. Send -to table either melted butter, shrimp, or -anchovy sauce.</p> - - -<p><b>Soles, Baked au Gratin.</b>—Melt an -ounce of butter in a gratin-dish, or tin -baking dish. Chop finely two or three -shallots, a small bunch of parsley, and -few herbs, grate a slice of stale bread. -Sprinkle half the quantity of these at the -bottom of the dish, lay the sole upon that -and cover with the remainder. Pour -either a glass of white wine or the juice -of a lemon over all, lay a few bits of -butter at the top, and bake in a quick -oven for twenty minutes. Serve in the -same dish, sprinkled with salt and pepper. -Or soles are very nice if laid in a buttered -dish, having rubbed them with flour, more -butter placed on the top, and baked till -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">« 69 »</a></span> -lightly browned. They may be lifted on -to another dish, but the butter should be -served with them.</p> - - -<p><b>Sole à la Normande.</b>—This is an -epicure's dish. After skinning and cleaning -a large sole, dry it thoroughly and rub -with flour. Take a gratin-dish, or a -porcelain one which will stand fire. Slice -two shallots very thinly, brown them in -butter, and lay at the bottom of the dish -with more butter. Lay the sole in the -dish, sprinkle it with salt and pepper, and -cover with a glass of white wine. Bake -in a gentle oven until tender through. -Meanwhile make some rich white sauce -with cream; if possible, take a few oysters, -beard them, and put them into the sauce -with their liquor; let the sauce merely -simmer after this. Open a small tin of -button mushrooms, mince them finely, -and strew them over the sole, let them -get hot through, then pour the oyster -sauce over all. Garnish with a few -shrimps, and place tiny croutons of fried -bread round the edge.</p> - -<p>Cider may be used instead of wine.</p> - - -<p><b>Soles, Filleted.</b>—Fillet a large sole by -slitting it down the middle of the back, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">« 70 »</a></span> -and with a sharp knife raising the flesh -from the bone on each side. Divide the -meat into convenient sized pieces, say -two inches broad and three long, make a -marinade of salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil, -lay the fillets in this, turning them often, -and let them lie an hour or so. Prepare -a frying batter—a heaped spoonful of -flour mixed smooth with a little oil and -cold water, a pinch of salt, and the whites -of two eggs—it should be fairly thick. -Well coat each fillet with this, then drop -into boiling fat, and fry till a nice brown. -Garnish prettily, and serve with tomato -sauce.</p> - -<p>The fillets of sole may be dipped into -egg and bread raspings, fried, then laid in -the following sauce to heat through, before -serving altogether: half a pint of clear -stock thickened with a tablespoonful of -flour, mixed smooth with butter, a tablespoonful -of mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonful -of curry powder, the same of -tarragon vinegar, and a pinch of salt. -Let the sauce be well cooked before -putting in the fillets.</p> - -<p>The fillets, or small soles whole, may -be gently simmered in butter till tender, -then laid on a hot dish, and white sauce -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">« 71 »</a></span> -seasoned with salt, pepper, and lemon -juice, be poured over them. If the soles -be <i>boiled</i> for two minutes only before -putting them in the butter, and the sauce -be made with cream, this will be found a -most delicious way of dressing them for -invalids.</p> - - -<p><b>Sprats.</b>—Sprats resemble herrings very -closely. They are abundant on the North -British coasts, particularly in the Firth of -Forth. In Edinburgh and Glasgow they -are known as "garvies." They may be -cooked in any of the ways prescribed for -herrings, but are best broiled over the -fire, and lemon juice improves the flavour -of them.</p> - - -<p><b>Sturgeon.</b>—The sturgeon is somewhat -of a rarity in English markets, although -common enough in Russia. It is regarded -as a royal fish, and is proportionately costly. -Its flesh is delicious, and the caviare which -the Russians prepare from the roe is justly -esteemed a great delicacy.</p> - -<p>The Russian method of dressing it is to -par-boil it in water with onions, herbs, -and baysalt, then to drain it, dredge it -with flour, and pour melted butter liberally -over it, then to lay it before a bright -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">« 72 »</a></span> -fire to roast, serving with a rich sauce, -either poured over it, or in a tureen.</p> - -<p>Sturgeon is very good if simply roasted -before the fire, taking care to baste frequently -with butter. Of course all the -skin and spikes are previously stripped -off, and the fish well cleansed.</p> - - -<p><b>Sturgeon, Stewed.</b>—This is one of -the best ways of cooking a portion of this -fish. Take two or three slices about an -inch thick, let them steep in vinegar -awhile. Dry them, dip in flour, and -place in some frothing butter in a covered -stewpan. Let them brown on both sides, -then remove the fish, and in its place put -a few shallots, half a small carrot cut into -dice, and some button mushrooms. When -these have browned, cover them with half -a pint of clear veal broth, a good tumblerful -of claret, a teaspoonful of salt and -pepper mixed, then replace the slices of -sturgeon. Let all stew together for upwards -of an hour, when remove the fish -on to a dish, strain the sauce from the -vegetables, thicken it with a little flour -rolled in butter, and add a spoonful of -some sharp sauce. Pour over the fish on -the dish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">« 73 »</a></span></p> - - -<p><b>Tench.</b>—River tench are the best for -the table. They somewhat resemble carp, -but are smaller in size and of a richer -flavour. They should lie in salt water for -a few hours, then be turned into clear -spring water, to rid them of the slight -muddy flavour which they are apt to have. -The cold winter months are their best -season.</p> - -<p>Empty and scale the tench very carefully, -always removing the gills, as they -are most apt to retain the muddy flavour. -After the fish is cleansed it is a good plan -to rub it well over with lemon juice. It -may then be baked <i>au gratin</i>, or boiled in -salt water, or broiled over the fire. If -the last-named method be chosen, let the -fish be steeped in oil, sprinkled with salt -and pepper, and wrapped in oiled paper -before laying on the gridiron. Great care -is needed not to let the paper catch fire. -Remove the paper before bringing to table, -lay the fish on a hot dish and serve a -<i>sauce piquante</i> over it.</p> - -<p>The time it takes to cook will depend -entirely on the size of the fish. Broiling -will require about ten minutes to the -pound; boiling and baking rather less -time.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">« 74 »</a></span></p> - -<p>Tench is also good if fried. After -scaling and cleaning it should be dipped -into vinegar and water, dried, and split -open; dredge it with flour, and plunge -into boiling fat. Serve garnished with -parsley and lemons.</p> - - -<p><b>Trout, Baked.</b>—One of the nicest -ways of dressing trout is to simply bake -them with butter. Wash, empty, and -dry the trout, sprinkle them with seasoned -flour, lay in a baking tin in which a little -butter has been melted, place several pats -of butter over them, and bake about -twenty minutes. Lift them out on to a -dish, garnish with parsley, thicken the -butter slightly, stir in a spoonful of -chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon -juice, and pour the sauce round the -fish.</p> - - -<p><b>Trout, Boiled.</b>—Fresh trout is excellent -if boiled in "court-bouillon" for -ten to fifteen minutes, then drained and -served with Dutch sauce or melted butter. -This method is similar to that recommended -by the great Izaak Walton.</p> - - -<p><b>Turbot.</b>—The turbot is the king of -flat fish, and is justly held in high estimation. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">« 75 »</a></span> -It is rather an expensive fish, and -is mostly sold by size. At its best from -February to August. It will keep good -for a day, or even two, if slightly salted. -Salt should be rubbed all over to help -to remove the slime. The fins should -not be cut off, but an incision should be -made all the way down the middle of -the backbone on the <i>dark</i> side to prevent -the white side cracking. Lemon juice -rubbed over it helps to preserve the -colour. Any unsightly spots on the white -side may be removed by rubbing with -salt and lemon juice.</p> - - -<p><b>Turbot, Boiled.</b>—After preparing the -turbot according to the directions given -above, lay it in the turbot kettle and -cover with cold water to the depth of an -inch. Allow a good handful of salt to a -gallon of water. Bring it up to boiling -point as quickly as possible, and remove -the scum as it rises. When it boils draw -it aside to simmer gently, watch it carefully, -and as soon as it shows signs of the -flesh shrinking from the bone, lift it out -on the drainer, let it drain a minute, then -slide it carefully on to a clean napkin. -Garnish with parsley, cut lemons, and if -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">« 76 »</a></span> -a few crayfish are obtainable they add -greatly to the beauty of the dish. A -sprinkling of lobster coral on the white -surface is very pretty.</p> - -<p>Whatever sauce accompanies boiled -turbot, it should be brought to table in a -tureen.</p> - -<p>A pretty way of garnishing boiled -turbot in summer time is to surround it -with a border of nasturtium flowers.</p> - - -<p><b>Turbot, with Anchovy Cream.</b>—Boil -a medium sized turbot according to the -last recipe—by the way, a turbot ought -to be thick and of a creamy white colour; -if thin and bluish looking it is not a good -one. Lay the fish on a hot dish without -a napkin, cover to keep it hot. Then -into half a pint of plain melted butter, -stir in a good teaspoonful of essence of -anchovies, and a quarter of a pint of rich -cream; let it nearly boil, then pour over -the turbot. Chop small a few pickled -gherkins and capers, strew them over the -surface. Before bringing to table, make a -border round this of new kidney potatoes, -well boiled but not broken; garnish the -outer edge with parsley.</p> - - -<p><b>Turbot à la Béchamel.</b>—This is one -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">« 77 »</a></span> -of the best ways of dressing cold turbot. -Make a pint of Béchamel sauce by boiling -together equal quantities of good white -stock and cream in an enamelled saucepan, -also a strip of fresh lemon rind and -two or three shallots. Add a mixed teaspoonful -of salt and pepper, thicken with -a spoonful of arrowroot, and let it boil -well. Remove the lemon rind and -shallots, and put in the pieces of turbot -to heat through, all skin and bone removed. -When quite hot, pour all together on to a -hot dish; if liked, a few oysters may be -added to the sauce just before turning it -out. Some potato croquettes are a nice -addition to this dish.</p> - - -<p><b>Turbot Salad.</b>—The remains of cold -turbot will make an excellent salad. Free -it from all skin and bone, and divide into -pieces about an inch square. Sprinkle -the pieces with salt and pepper and a -little vinegar. Take two large fresh -lettuces, let them be quite clean and dry. -Make a dressing for the salad of the -beaten yolks of two eggs, a teaspoonful of -made mustard, salt and pepper, four -spoonsful of oil, and one of tarragon -vinegar. Arrange the salad in a bowl or -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">« 78 »</a></span> -dish by making a layer of shred lettuce -leaves, then one of fish, and a few spoonsful -of the dressing, and continue thus -until the material is used up. Garnish -the top with sliced beetroot, hard-boiled -eggs, &c., and let the salad stand in a -cold place for half an hour.</p> - -<p>Turbot may be cooked <i>au gratin</i> if of -a small size, allowing white wine or cider -to it. French cooks generally prefer to -par-boil it in "court-bouillon," then to take -it out and finish cooking it in white sauce.</p> - - -<p><b>Whitebait.</b>—Whitebait are genuine -Cockney fish, being found alone in the -Thames in perfection. They make their -appearance early in the year, but the -season <i>par excellence</i> is the month of May. -They cannot be had too fresh; if not used -instantly they are brought in, they should -lie in ice-water until required.</p> - -<p>It is generally thought that only a -"professional" can cook whitebait, but if -due care be given there is no reason why -they should be beyond the skill of the -amateur. The principal thing to observe -is the <i>drying</i> of the fish. After well draining -them they should be thrown on to a -floured cloth—a cloth containing flour an -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">« 79 »</a></span> -inch in depth. When thus dosed, the -fish should be put into a sifter and lightly -shaken to remove all superfluous flour. -They should next be put into a wire -basket, a few at a time, and plunged into -a pan containing a good depth of boiling -fat. A minute generally suffices to cook -them, then they should be laid on a hot -dish, garnished with fried parsley, and -sent to table instantly. It is absolutely -needful to fry the whitebait the moment -after it is floured; if allowed to remain on -one side for only a few minutes, it becomes -flabby and spoilt. Thin brown bread and -butter and slices of lemon are an indispensable -accompaniment to whitebait. -For "Devilled Whitebait" lift out the -basket of fish when only half cooked, -pepper them with black or cayenne -pepper and return to the fat to finish -cooking.</p> - - -<p><b>Whiting.</b>—Whiting are excellent fish -when fresh, the flesh being light, tender, -and easy of digestion. The firmness of -the flesh, and its silvery hue, are the signs -by which to judge of its freshness. It is -more or less in season all the year, but at -its best in the winter months. Occasionally -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">« 80 »</a></span> -they attain to a considerable size, but -are mostly from one to two pounds in -weight. Those about nine inches in -length are the best in point of flavour.</p> - -<p>Whiting are best broiled or fried.</p> - - -<p><b>Whiting, Broiled.</b>—Wash in salted -water, split them open, and dry thoroughly. -Dip them in oil, sprinkle with seasoning, -dredge with flour, and then lay on a -greased gridiron, and broil lightly on both -sides. Place them on a hot dish, put a pat -of butter on each, and serve smoking hot.</p> - - -<p><b>Whiting, Fried.</b>—Empty, and wash -the fish, skin it, and then draw the tail -through the mouth. Dip each one first -into flour, then in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, -drop into boiling fat, and fry to -a golden brown. Garnish the dish with -fried parsley, and send sauce to table in a -tureen.</p> - -<p>A large whiting may be split open, -floured, and then fried in a smaller -quantity of fat. When done, lay it on a -dish and pour the following sauce over it: -A tablespoonful of minced herbs, the same -of parsley, a pinch of seasoning, an ounce -of fresh butter, and small glass of white -wine all boiled together.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">« 81 »</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="PART_IV" id="PART_IV">PART IV.</a></h2> - -<p class="caption3"><i>FISH SAUCES</i>.</p> - - -<p>A few plain directions as to the making -of sauces suitable for serving with fish, -will, we think, not be unwelcome. First -as to that sauce commonly known as—</p> - - -<p><b>Melted Butter.</b>—In France this sauce -is what its name declares it to be, viz., a -tureen half full of pure butter dissolved, -in strong contrast to that generally found -on English tables, where a mixture of -milk and water thickened with flour, is -usually dignified with this title. True -"butter sauce" belongs to neither of these -extremes. As one ladleful will generally -suffice for each individual partaking of -fish, it is as well to measure into the -saucepan the number of ladlefuls that -will be required, so that there shall be no -waste of good material.</p> - -<p>Having ascertained how much liquid -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">« 82 »</a></span> -will be in the saucepan when the sauce is -finished, pour away the water and proceed -to divide the materials you will use. -A small lump of butter should be allowed -for each ladleful of sauce. Take one -lump and let it dissolve, then stir in a -heaped tablespoonful of dry flour, mix -these quite smoothly together, with the -addition of cold water, until like a cream; -add boiling water to make half the -quantity of sauce, then stir in by degrees -the remaining lumps of butter. If the -sauce shows signs of looking oily, a little -cold water will correct it. A pinch of -salt should be added, or salt butter may -be used.</p> - - -<p><b>Maître d'Hôtel Butter.</b>—For this -prepare a little melted butter, by mixing -an ounce of butter with the same weight -of flour, and cold water to make it smooth. -Dilute with a quarter of a pint of white -stock. Let this mixture boil, then stir in a -tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one of -sweet herbs, half one of minced chives, a -teaspoonful of mixed salt and pepper, the -juice of a lemon, or a spoonful of tarragon -vinegar, and a spoonful of pure oil; when -these have been well mixed together, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">« 83 »</a></span> -draw aside the saucepan and stir in the -beaten yolk of an egg, then pour into a -hot tureen.</p> - - -<p><b>Herb Sauce: for Broiled Fish.</b>—Chop -some dry parsley until quite fine, -also an equal quantity of mixed herbs—thyme, -marjoram, sage, chervil, celery, -fennel, &c. Put first a small lump of -butter to dissolve in the saucepan, and -chop finely a shallot and let it frizzle in -this, then stir in the parsley and herbs, -and add sufficient vinegar to cover them. -Draw the saucepan aside and let it -simmer ten minutes to abstract the -flavour. Just before it is wanted, add -pepper and a pinch of salt, also a good -tablespoonful of oil. A yolk of egg, added -lastly, will slightly thicken and improve it, -but it is very good without, especially for -broiled herrings and mackerel.</p> - - -<p><b>Anchovy Sauce.</b>—Anchovy sauce is -quickly and easily made according to the -recipe given in the previous chapter (see -letter A), but if a richer sauce is desired, -the anchovies should be boiled gently -until they dissolve. Then the liquor be -strained, added to a little plain melted -butter with a glass of port wine.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">« 84 »</a></span></p> - - -<p><b>Shrimp Sauce.</b>—For this the foundation -is again "melted butter," and to half -a pint of that allow half a pint of shrimps. -Pick off heads, tails, and shells, and let -the bodies stew gently in the sauce, but -not boil, or they will harden. Add a -pinch of cayenne pepper, a little lemon-juice, -a drop of anchovy essence, and salt -to taste.</p> - - -<p><b>Lobster Sauce</b> can be made in the -same way, using a little of the white meat -of the lobster torn into flakes, in place of -the shrimps, and stirring in a spoonful of -lobster butter. It must not boil or the -colour will be spoilt. To give this sauce -a stronger flavour of lobster, the shell may -be boiled in water, and the liquor used -instead of water.</p> - - -<p><b>Fennel Sauce.</b>—Pick some fennel from -the stalk and boil it for a minute, then -chop it fine and add to some "melted -butter." Stir in the yolk of an egg the -last thing. A teaspoonful of spiced vinegar -will give piquancy to it.</p> - - -<p><b>Parsley Sauce.</b>—Parsley sauce is -merely "melted butter" with chopped -parsley stirred in. It is an improvement -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">« 85 »</a></span> -to let the sauce boil a moment or two -after to take off the raw flavour.</p> - - -<p><b>Horseradish Sauce.</b>—To two tablespoonsful -of finely-scraped horseradish -and one of stale white breadcrumbs allow -half a pint of cream—or new milk and -cream—and a pinch of salt. Let this -stew for fifteen minutes, then stir in a -spoonful of vinegar just before serving.</p> - - -<p><b>Gooseberry Sauce, for Mackerel.</b>—Stew -half a pint of gooseberries in a little -water until very soft, press them through -a sieve into the same quantity of "melted -butter," add an ounce of white sugar, and -a spoonful of spinach-juice to give a nice -green colour.</p> - - -<p><b>Egg Sauce.</b>—<i>First Way</i>: Make some -good "melted butter," stir into it two or -three hard-boiled eggs which have been -cut up small, and season it well. Just -before serving stir in the beaten yolk of a -fresh egg.</p> - -<p><i>Second Way</i> (for cold fish): Beat the -yolks of two fresh eggs, stir in a teaspoonful -of made mustard, half a teaspoonful of -mixed salt and pepper, and by degrees -two tablespoonsful of salad oil and one of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">« 86 »</a></span> -tarragon vinegar. It should be of the -consistency of cream. This sauce is -almost identical with "Mayonnaise" -sauce, and to make a green mayonnaise -add finely-minced chives, parsley, chervil, -and cress.</p> - - -<p><b>Tomato Sauce.</b>—Melt an ounce of -butter, and slice one or two tomatoes -thinly into it, add one or two shallots. -Let these stew till quite soft, then press -through a wire sieve. Add a little more -butter to this purée, plenty of salt and -pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar. Make -thoroughly hot before serving.</p> - - -<p>Regard should always be had to contrast -of colour in garnishing all dishes. -Where the fish is masked in white sauce, -the introduction of something red amongst -the green garnishing is a relief to the eye. -Flowers may be used to supply this needful -touch of colour, slices of beetroot, or -a few strips of boiled carrot, or a few -bright prawns, one or two chilies, &c.</p> - -<p>If a portion of salmon, showing the -bright colour of the meat, is the dish -which has to be trimmed, a few mounds -of scraped horseradish alternating with -tufts of curly parsley looks well.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">« 87 »</a></span></p> - -<p>For fried fish—soles, fillets, lobster cutlets, -&c., it is better to fry the parsley -which is used for their garnishing. -Double-curled parsley, well dried, thrown -into a wire basket and plunged into the -boiling fat, for one minute only, is the -way to obtain this.</p> - -<p>Crisp, fried croutons of bread, tiny -potato balls, rice balls, sliced lemons, -small bright tomatoes, and slices of hard-boiled -egg, are all excellent for garnishing -purposes.</p> - -<p>Fish that has been baked in the oven—excepting -always that which has been -done <i>au gratin</i>, and which requires no -garnish—will often be made to look very -pretty if a few fancy shapes be stamped -out of cooked vegetables, say the red of -a carrot, the white of a turnip, tiny sprigs -of cauliflower, &c., always using green -parsley to finish off the outer edge. -Where there is the will to do it, means -will not be lacking whereby the simplest -dish may be made to look elegant.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a></span></p> - - -<div class="fig_center" style="width: 190px;"> -<img src="images/txt_gresham_press.png" width="190" height="23" alt="The Gresham Press," /> -</div> - -<p class="center">UNWIN BROTHERS</p> - -<p class="center">WOKING AND LONDON.</p> - -<div class="trans_notes"> -<p class="caption2">Transcriber Note</p> - -<p>Hyphenation was standardized to the most commonly used version. -Some accents were corrected and one added for consistent usage. The -measurement "nob" (small amount) was retained rather than the current -"knob".</p> -</div> - - - - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's A Handbook of Fish Cookery, by Lucy H. 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