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diff --git a/old/53627-0.txt b/old/53627-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 3cae462..0000000 --- a/old/53627-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4714 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Bread and Biscuit Baker's and -Sugar-Boiler's Assistant, by Robert Wells - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Bread and Biscuit Baker's and Sugar-Boiler's Assistant - Including a Large Variety of Modern Recipes - -Author: Robert Wells - -Release Date: November 28, 2016 [EBook #53627] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BREAD AND BISCUIT MAKER'S ASSISTANT *** - - - - -Produced by Cindy Horton and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - THE - BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER’S - AND - SUGAR-BOILER’S ASSISTANT - - - Including a large variety of Modern Recipes - - FOR - - _BREAD -- TEA CAKES -- HARD AND FANCY BISCUITS -- - BUNS -- GINGERBREADS -- SHORTBREADS -- PASTRY -- - CUSTARDS -- FRUIT CAKES -- SMALL GOODS FOR - SMALL MASTERS -- CONFECTIONS IN SUGAR -- - LOZENGES -- ICE CREAMS -- PRESERVING - FRUIT -- CHOCOLATE, ETC., ETC._ - - - WITH REMARKS ON - THE ART OF BREAD-MAKING - AND - CHEMISTRY AS APPLIED TO BREAD-MAKING - - - BY - ROBERT WELLS - - PRACTICAL BAKER, CONFECTIONER, AND PASTRYCOOK, SCARBOROUGH - - - Second Edition, with Additional Recipes. - - -[Illustration: Capio Lumen] - - - LONDON - CROSBY LOCKWOOD AND SON - 7, STATIONERS’ HALL COURT, LUDGATE HILL - 1890 - [_All rights reserved._] - - - - -PREFACE. - - -In submitting the following pages for public approval, the Author hopes -that the work may prove acceptable and useful to the Baking Trade as a -Book of Instruction for Learners, and for daily reference in the Shop -and Bakehouse; and having exercised great care in its compilation, he -believes that in all its details it will be found a trustworthy guide. - -From his own experience in the Baker’s business, he is satisfied that -a book of this kind, embodying in a handy form the accumulated results -of the work of practical men, is really wanted; and as in the choice -of Recipes he has been guided by an intimate acquaintance with the -requirements of the trade, and as every recipe here given has been -tested by actual and successful use, he trusts that the labour which he -has bestowed upon the preparation of the work may be rewarded by its -wide acceptance by his brethren in the trade. - -The work being divided into sections, as shown in the Contents, and -a full Index having been added, reference can readily be made, as -occasion may arise, either to a class of goods, or to a particular -recipe. - -Any suggestions for the improvement of the work, which the experience -of others may lead them to propose, will, if communicated to the -Author, be gratefully esteemed and carefully dealt with in future -editions. - - SCARBOROUGH, - _October, 1888_. - - -ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION. - -It is very gratifying to both Author and Publishers that this little -book has been so favourably received by the Baking Trade and the public -that a second edition is required within a few months of the first -issue of the work. - -The opportunity has been taken to insert some additional recipes for -the whole-meal and other breads which of late have been so frequently -recommended as substitutes for the white bread in established use, -together with some remarks on the subject by Professors Jago and -Graham; and a few corrections in the text (the necessity for which -escaped notice when the work was first in the press) have also been -made. - - _August, 1889._ - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKING, ETC. - - PAGE - I.--INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. - Slow Process in the Art of Bread-making 1 - Need of Technical Training 1 - Chemistry as applied to Bread-making 2 - Process of Fermentation 4 - Liebig on the Process of Bread-making 5 - Professors Jago and Graham on Brown Bread 7, 8 - - - II.--GENERAL REMARKS ON BAKING. - Baking and its several Branches 10 - Essentials of good Bread-making 10 - German Yeast and Parisian Barm 11 - Recipe for American Patent Yeast 12 - Judging between good and bad Flour 13 - Liebig on the Action of Alum in Bread 13 - Professor Vaughan on Adulteration with Alum 13 - Importance of good Butter to the Pastrycook 13 - - - III.--BREAD, TEA CAKES, BUNS, ETC. - 1. To make Home-made Bread 17 - 2. Bread-making by the Old Method 17 - 3. Modern Way of making Bread 18 - 4. Scotch Style of making Bread 19 - 5. Home-made Whole Meal Bread 20 - 6. Whole Meal Bread for Master Bakers 21 - 7. Unfermented or Diet Bread 21 - 8. Rye Bread 22 - 9. Coarse Bread 22 - 10. Germ Flour Bread 23 - 11. Tea Cakes 24 - 12. Queen’s Bread 24 - 13. Sally Luns, Yorkshire, or Tea Cakes 24 - 14. Muffins 25 - 15. Another Way 25 - 16. Crumpets 26 - 17. Oatmeal Cake 27 - 18. Bath Buns 27 - 19. Another Way 27 - 20. Hot Cross Buns 28 - 21. Chelsea Buns 28 - 22. Balmoral Cakes 29 - 23. Balloon or Prussian Cakes 29 - 24. Saffron Buns 29 - 25. Cinnamon Buns 30 - 26. Jubilee Buns 30 - 27. German Buns 30 - 28. Common German Buns (for wholesale purposes) 30 - 29. London Buns 30 - 30. Penny Queen Cakes 31 - 31. Patent Flour 31 - 32. Penny Rice Cakes 31 - 33. Cocoanut Cakes 31 - 34. Albert Cakes 31 - - - IV.--GINGERBREAD, PARKINGS, SHORTBREAD, ETC. - 35. Queen’s Gingerbread 32 - 36. German Gingerbread 32 - 37. Spiced Gingerbread 32 - 38. Scarborough Gingerbread (for wholesale purposes) 33 - 39. Ginger Cakes 33 - 40. Prepared Treacle 33 - 41. Prepared Treacle for Thick Gingerbread 33 - 42. Laughing or Fun Nuts 34 - 43. Grantham or White Gingerbread 34 - 44. Spice Nuts 34 - 45. Another Way 34 - 46. Another Way 34 - 47. Light Gingerbread 34 - 48. Italian Jumbles, or Brandy Snaps 35 - 49. Halfpenny Gingerbread Squares 35 - 50. Hunting Nuts 36 - 51. Parkings 36 - 52. Another Way 36 - 53. Parking Cake 36 - 54. Scotch Shortbread 36 - 55. English Shortbread 37 - 56. French Shortbread 37 - - - V.--HARD BISCUITS. - 57. Machine-made Biscuits 38 - 58. Ship Biscuits 38 - 59. Captains’ Biscuits 39 - 60. Thick Captains 39 - 61. Abernethy Biscuits (Dr. Abernethy’s original recipe) 39 - 62. Abernethys as made in London 40 - 63. Usual Way of making Abernethy Biscuits 40 - 64. Wine Biscuits 40 - 65. Soda Biscuits 40 - 66. Boston Lemon Crackers 41 - 67. Pic-Nics 41 - 68. Common Pic-Nics 41 - 69. Luncheon Biscuits 41 - 70. Digestive Biscuits 41 - 71. Another Way 42 - 72. Small Arrowroot Biscuits 42 - 73. Coffee Biscuits 42 - 74. Victoria Biscuits 42 - 75. Shell Biscuits 43 - 76. York Biscuits 43 - 77. Machine Biscuits 43 - 78. Bath Oliver Biscuits 43 - 79. Edinburgh Biscuits 43 - 80. Nursery Biscuits 44 - 81. Soda Biscuits 44 - - - VI.--FANCY BISCUITS, ALMONDS, ETC. - 82. Digestive Biscuits 45 - 83. Kent Biscuits 45 - 84. Imperial or Lemon Biscuits 45 - 85. Venice Biscuits 46 - 86. Shrewsbury Biscuits 46 - 87. Another Way 46 - 88. Another Way 46 - 89. Peruvian Biscuits 47 - 90. Currant Fruit Biscuits 47 - 91. Snowdrop Biscuits 47 - 92. Rice Biscuits 47 - 93. Genoa and Toulouse Biscuits, Exhibition Nuts, and - Marseillaise Biscuits 47 - 94. Walnut Biscuits 48 - 95. Queen’s Drops 48 - 96. Cracknel Biscuits 48 - 97. Premium Drops 49 - 98. German Wafers 49 - 99. Crimp, or Honeycomb Biscuits 49 - 100. Hermit Biscuits 50 - 101. Italian Macaroons 50 - 102. Common Macaroons 50 - 103. French Macaroons 51 - 104. Ratafias 51 - 105. Princess Biscuits 51 - 106. Rusks 51 - 107. Rock Almonds (White) 52 - 108. Rock Almonds (Pink) 52 - 109. Rock Almonds (Brown) 52 - 110. Almond Fruit Biscuits 52 - 111. Meringues 53 - 112. Another Way 53 - 113. Common Drop Biscuits 54 - 114. Savoy Biscuits 54 - 115. French Savoy Biscuits 54 - 116. Judges’ Biscuits 54 - 117. Lord Mayor’s Biscuits 54 - 118. Fruit Biscuits 54 - 119. Palais-Royal Biscuits 55 - 120. Rice Biscuits 55 - 121. Scarborough Water Cakes 56 - 122. Sponge Biscuits 56 - 123. Almond Sponge Biscuits 56 - 124. Naples Biscuits 56 - - - VII.--PASTRY, CUSTARDS, ETC. - 125. Butter for Puff Paste 57 - 126. Puff Paste 57 - 127. Another Way 57 - 128. Crisp Tart Paste 58 - 129. Sweet Tart Paste 58 - 130. Paste for a Baked Custard 58 - 131. Paste for small Raised Pies 58 - 132. To make a handsome Tartlet 58 - 133. Nelson Cake or Eccles Cake 58 - 134. To make a Custard 59 - 135. Common Custard 59 - - - VIII.--FRUIT CAKES, BRIDE CAKES, ETC. - 136. Directions for mixing Cakes made with Butter 60 - 137. Another Way 60 - 138. London Way of mixing Cakes 60 - 139. Another Way of mixing Cakes 61 - 140. Citron Cake 61 - 141. Common Fruit Cake 61 - 142. Pound Cakes 61 - 143. Seed Cakes 61 - 144. Two and Three Pound Cakes 62 - 145. Another Seed Cake 62 - 146. Four and Six Pound Cakes 62 - 147. Bride Cakes 62 - 148. Icing Sugar for Bride Cakes, &c. 63 - 149. Almond Icing for Bride Cakes 63 - 150. Wedding Cake 63 - 151. Rich Twelfth Cake 64 - 152. Madeira Cakes 64 - 153. Plum Cake (as made for the best shops in Edinburgh) 64 - 154. Genoa Cake 64 - 155. Rice Cake (Scotch Mixture) 64 - 156. Madeira Cake (Scotch Mixture) 64 - 157. Pond Cake or Dundee Cake 65 - 158. Silver Cake 65 - 159. Gold Cake 65 - 160. Plum Cake at 6d. per lb. (as sold by Grocers) 65 - 161. Another Way 65 - 162. Another Way 65 - 163. Mystery, or Cheap Plum Cake at 3d. per lb. 66 - 164. Plum Cake at 4d. per lb. 66 - 165. Lafayette Cakes 66 - 166. American Genoa Cake 66 - 167. Lemon Cake 67 - 168. Bristol Cake 67 - 169. Jubilee Cakes 67 - - - IX.--HANDY WHOLESALE RECIPES FOR SMALL MASTERS. - 170. Soda Cakes or Scones 68 - 171. Currant or Milk Scones 68 - 172. Sugar or White Spice Biscuits 68 - 173. Halfpenny Scotch Cakes 69 - 174. Large Square Penny Albert Cake 69 - 175. Brandy Snaps 69 - 176. Nonpareil Biscuits 69 - 177. Common Halfpenny Queen Cake 70 - 178. Halfpenny Lunch Cake 70 - 179. Polkas or Halfpenny Sponges 70 - - - SUGAR-BOILING, ETC. - - - X.--CONFECTIONS IN SUGAR-BOILING. - 180. Clarifying Sugar 73 - 181. Testing Sugar 74 - 182. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Pearled” 74 - 183. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Blown” 74 - 184. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Feathered” 74 - 185. To boil Sugar to the “Ball” Degree 74 - 186. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Crackled” 75 - 187. To boil Sugar to the degree called “Caramelled” 75 - 188. To boil Sugar by the Thermometer 75 - 189. Barley Sugar 75 - 190. Barley Sugar Drops 76 - 191. Acid Drops 76 - 192. Pine-apple Drops 76 - 193. Poppy Drops 76 - 194. Ginger Drops 77 - 195. Cayenne Drops 77 - 196. Ginger Candy 77 - 197. Lemon Candy 77 - 198. Peppermint Candy 77 - 199. Rose Candy 77 - 200. Burnt Almonds 78 - 201. Cast Sugar Drops 78 - 202. Rose Drops 79 - 203. Orange-flower Drops 79 - 204. Chocolate Drops 79 - 205. Coffee Drops 79 - 206. Barberry Drops 79 - 207. Peppermint Drops 80 - 208. Pine-apple Drops 80 - 209. Vanilla Drops 80 - 210. Ginger Drops 80 - 211. Lemon Drops 80 - 212. Orange Drops 81 - 213. Pear Drops 81 - 214. Lavender, Violet, Musk, and Millefleur Drops 81 - 215. Pink Burnt Almonds 81 - 216. Philadelphia Caramels 81 - 217. Boston Chips 82 - 218. Engagement Favours 82 - 219. Almond Hardbake 82 - 220. To make Gum Paste 83 - 221. To spin a Silver Web 83 - 222. To spin a Gold Web 83 - 223. A Spun Sugar Pyramid 84 - 224. To spin a Gold Sugar Crocanth 84 - 225. To spin a Gold Cup 84 - 226. A Spun Sugar Bee-hive 85 - 227. To Ornament a Bee-hive 85 - - - XI.--COLOURING SUGAR. - 228. To prepare Sugar for Colouring 87 - 229. To colour Sugar 87 - 230. Blue Colouring 87 - 231. Carmine Colouring 88 - 232. Green Colouring 88 - 233. Another Way 88 - 234. Orange Colouring 88 - 235. Red Colouring 89 - 236. Yellow Colouring 89 - - - XII.--LOZENGES. - 237. Peppermint Lozenges 90 - 238. Rose Lozenges 90 - 239. Ginger Lozenges 91 - 240. Transparent Mint Lozenges 91 - 241. Cinnamon Lozenges 91 - 242. Clove Lozenges 91 - 243. Nutmeg Lozenges 91 - 244. Lavender Lozenges 91 - 245. Vanilla Lozenges 91 - 246. Brilliants 91 - - - XIII.--ICE CREAMS. - 247. Vanilla Ice Cream 92 - 248. Bisque or Biscuit Glace 93 - 249. Crushed Strawberry Ice Cream 93 - 250. Hokey Pokey 93 - 251. Cocoanut Ice 94 - - - XIV.--PRESERVING FRUITS. - 252. Large Strawberries 95 - 253. Strawberry Jam 96 - 254. Raspberry Jelly 97 - 255. Black Currant Jelly 97 - 256. Red Currant Jam 97 - 257. Apple Jelly 97 - 258. Gooseberry Jam 98 - 259. Orange Marmalade 98 - - - XV.--CHOCOLATE. - 260. General Directions for Making Chocolate 99 - 261. Chocolate Harlequin Pistachios 100 - 262. Chocolate Drops with Nonpareils 100 - 263. Chocolate in Moulds 100 - - - - -THE BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER’S ASSISTANT. - - - - -I. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. - - -When we reflect upon the present conditions under which the -bread-making industry is carried on in most of the large cities and -towns of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and remember the importance -of that industry to mankind, we cannot but be impressed by the little -progress that has been made in the art of bread-making. Whilst other -industries have been marked by important improvements, we find bread -being made in much the same manner as it was five hundred years ago. -The mystery is how--by accident, it would seem--we get such well-made -bread as we do. There are very few even now who have the slightest -conception of what yeast really is, and fewer still who know how or why -it makes bread light. But it will surprise me if the trade does not -undergo, in the course of the next ten years, a complete and beneficial -change. - -Master bakers and confectioners are everywhere complaining of the -incompetency of their workmen; and it cannot be denied that there -is some ground for the complaint. Proper training in the baking and -confectionery trade is of great importance. A trained servant gives -satisfaction to his employer, and receives a responsive good feeling in -return. - -Let us see what is meant by “training.” In its broadest and best sense, -it is knowing _what_ to do, and _when_ and _how_ to do it. - -Take the first condition--_What to do_. This may be considered on two -grounds, generally known as the _practical_ and the _theoretical_, -though the latter is sometimes confounded with the _scientific_, and -people are led to sneer at science. Much has been said lately in our -trade journals about introducing scientific chemistry to the journeyman -baker in connection with his daily work of making bread. But how many -journeyman bakers could we find that even understand the meaning of the -word chemistry, without expecting them to understand mysteries to which -years of study have been devoted by such men as Liebig, Graham, Dumas, -Darwin, Pasteur, and Thoms of Alyth? - - -CHEMISTRY AS APPLIED TO BREAD-MAKING. - -It is not my intention to depreciate the great good that would be -derived from scientific chemistry if properly applied to bread-making. -But who is to study and apply it? Surely not a man who earns from 20s. -to 30s. per week, and works twelve, fourteen, and sixteen hours a day -in an overheated atmosphere. What hours of rest he has should be used -to recuperate his lost vitality. Not till scientific chemistry is -taught in our Board schools and made one of the elements of a scholar’s -ordinary education, can we hope to see it used successfully with bakers -in making bread. - -Chemistry, I believe, is destined to play as important a part in -the annals of the baking trade as did the substitution of machinery -for hand labour. But at the present day how many bakers know that -the decomposition of sugar produces fermentation; that fermentation -destroys sugar and produces alcohol; that maltose assists fermentation; -that starch, however obtained, has always the same characteristics, -though there are different kinds from different sources; that dextrine -is soluble in water and insoluble in alcohol; that protoplasm, the -basis of all life, consists of protein, compounds, mineral salts, -nitrogen, &c.? And do not the meaning and use of terms familiar in -scientific chemistry--such as _diastase_, _cerealin_, _gluten_, and -others--only perplex the ordinary journeyman baker, and make him think -that the less he has to do with science, the more easily he will get -his life “rubbed through.” It is impossible for working bakers to -become acquainted with these things while in the bakehouse; and while -there are in many towns such valuable institutions as free libraries, -mechanics’ institutes, &c., they are not available to the ordinary -baker, as his hours are so exceptional. The baker’s hours of labour, -indeed, are shorter in many places than they used to be, and he is no -longer called “the white slave.” Still, the spirit of competition is so -strong that a baker has to work much harder proportionally than other -working men, and his mind is in no condition, in the little spare time -he has, to study the problems of science; and nobody can expect the -baker to know, as it were by intuition, the _whys_ and the _wherefores_ -of chemistry. However, what he has learnt in the practice of his art, -and what the common custom of the trade has handed down to him, he -may use to more or less advantage, according as he has more or less -personal skill. In the case of fermentation, which may be described as -the very backbone of bread-making, a baker will find plenty to study -and to think about, from his first “setting the sponge” until his bread -is out of the oven, without perplexing himself over problems about -which he can understand little or nothing. - -With time and money at his disposal, however, the study of chemistry -opens up a wide field to the studious baker, and would no doubt reward -him for his pains, and at the same time prove a great gain to his -trade; and I believe there are not a few earnest workers labouring at -the present time to afford that knowledge and help to the journeyman -baker which will eventually lead to an easier way of earning his daily -bread. - - -FERMENTATION. - -The process of fermentation, which has for its object either the -manufacture of bread, or of an alcoholic product in a more or less -concentrated form, is very similar in action during its earlier stages. -It commences with the growth and multiplication of the fermenting germs -contained in the minute organisms floating in the air, the inorganic -constituents of the water, and the protoplasm (essence of life) of -the yeast; and all the changes brought about are accompanied by heat. -Fermentation is caused by the decomposition of the starch and gluten -of a solution of either potatoes, flour, or malted barley, which -decomposition is accompanied by an evolution of gas. There is also -a peculiar vibration given to the various bodies in contact, which -agitates the whole. This agitation is increased by the bursting of the -starch-cells and the formation therefrom of maltose, and also by the -changing of the maltose sugar into carbonic acid gas. Substances in a -state of decomposition are capable of bringing about a change in the -chemical composition of bodies with which they are in contact. Most -of the vegetable substances used in fermentation have a constituent -part--sugar, starch, or some other substance--which is easily converted -into a fermentable sugar by the action of yeast, or of diluted mineral -acids, or by a constituent of malted barley, called diastase. The sugar -produced by these means is resolved into carbonic acid gas and alcohol -by vinous fermentation. It will be seen, therefore, that fermentation -is started by the saccharine element in the ferment, which is termed -maltose; the process is then kept up by the gluten, which, becoming -decomposed, aids the sugar and starch in the work of providing food -for the yeast as soon as the latter is brought in contact with it. The -fermentation then takes place very rapidly, and carbonic acid gas is -generated and given off in proportion to the amount of the products -contained in the ferment, or sponge, and also to the strength and -freshness of the yeast: especially is this so with gluten, which is the -great agent of fermentation, when in a state of decomposition and when -in contact with yeast. - - -PROCESS OF BREAD-MAKING. - -It will be useful to give here some remarks by the great scientist, -Liebig, on the best process of making bread:-- - -“Many chemists are of opinion that flour by the fermentation in -the dough loses somewhat of its nutritious constituents, from a -decomposition of the gluten; and it has been proposed to render the -dough porous without fermentation by means of substances which when -brought into contact yield carbonic acid. But on a closer investigation -of the process this view appears to have little foundation. - -“When flour is made into dough with water, and allowed to stand at -a gentle warmth, a change takes place in the gluten of the dough, -similar to that which occurs after the steeping of barley in the -commencement of germination in the seeds in the preparation of malt; -and in consequence of this change the starch (the greater part of it in -malting; in dough only a small percentage) is converted into sugar, a -small portion of the gluten passes into the soluble state, in which it -acquires the properties of albumen, but by this change it loses nothing -whatever of its digestibility or of its nutritive value. - -“We cannot bring flour and water together without the formation of -sugar from the starch, and it is this sugar and not the gluten of which -a part enters into fermentation, and is resolved into alcohol and -carbonic acid. - -“We know that malt is not inferior in nutritive power to barley from -which it is derived, although the gluten contained in it has undergone -a much more profound alteration than that of flour in the dough, and -experience has taught us that in distilleries where spirits are made -from potatoes, the plastic constituents of the potatoes, and of the -malt which is added after having gone through the entire course of the -processes of the formation and the fermentation of the sugar, have lost -little or nothing of their nutritive value. It is certain, therefore, -that in the making of bread there is no loss of gluten. - -“Only a small part of the starch of the flour is consumed in the -production of sugar, and the fermentative process is not only the -simplest and best but also the cheapest of all the methods which -have been recommended for rendering bread porous. Besides, chemical -preparations ought never, as a rule, to be recommended by chemists, for -culinary purposes, since they hardly ever are found pure in ordinary -commerce. For example, the commercial crude muriatic acid which it is -recommended to add to the dough along with bicarbonate of soda, is -always most impure, and often contains arsenic, so that the chemist -never uses it without a tedious process of purification for his -purposes, which are of far less importance than making bread light and -porous. - -“To make bread cheaper it has been proposed to add to dough potato -starch or dextrine, rice, the pressed pulp of turnips, pressed raw -potatoes, or boiled potatoes; but all these additions only diminish -the nutritive value of bread. Potato starch, dextrine, or the pressed -pulp of turnips, and beet-root, when added to flour, yield a mixture -the nutritive value of which is equal to the entire potato, or lower -still, but no one can consider the change of grain or flour into a food -of equal value with potatoes or rice an improvement. The true problem -is to render the potatoes or rice similar or equal to wheat in their -effects, and not _vice versâ_. It is better under all circumstances to -boil the potatoes and eat them as such, than to add potatoes or potato -starch to flour before it is made into bread, which should be strictly -prohibited by police regulation on account of the cheating to which it -would inevitably give rise.” - - -BROWN BREAD. - -With regard to the nutritive qualities of brown bread, Professor Jago -(who I think one of our highest authorities) says that whole meal, and -flour from which the bran and germ have not been removed, do not keep -well. These bodies contain oil and nitrogenous principles which readily -decompose, producing rancidity and mustiness in flavour. Not only do -these changes occur in the flour, but they also proceed apace in the -dough. The diastastic bodies of the bran and germ attack the starch, -and more or less convert it into dextrine and maltose; they further -attack the gluten, and that remarkably elastic body which confers on -wheaten flour, alone of all the cereals, the power of forming a light, -spongy, well-risen loaf. The gluten, under the action of the bran -and germ, loses its elasticity, and becomes fragile and incapable of -retaining the gas produced during fermentation; the result is heavy, -sodden, indigestible bread. - -Evidence of this is found in the fact that while whole-meal loaves -are so excessively baked as to produce a crust two or three times -the ordinary thickness, the interior is still in a damp and sodden -condition. This is the effect of bran in whole-meal. - -“Not only, then, on the ground of nutritive value may the use of a pure -white loaf be urged, but such bread is more healthily made, and will -be sweet and free from acidity when whole-meal and dark breads are -sour and unwholesome. It has also been pointed out that the nutritive -constituents of the bran are so locked within it that they escape -unaltered from the human body.” - -Such, in brief, is Professor Jago’s opinion of whole-meal, and bread -made from it. My own opinion is that Darwin’s theory of the survival -of the fittest is very forcibly illustrated in the milling of cereals, -and the adoption of food most proper for the human system. We have had -brown bread and white bread before the public from time immemorial, and -what is the result? Why, for every sack of wheat-meal bread which is -baked we have a thousand sacks of fine or white bread. And what of our -hospitals and our army and navy, with medical men at the head of them, -watching the results of this food or that food, and its effects on the -human body? I admit that brown bread does suit some constitutions; -but to the majority of people it is nauseous, frequently causing -flatulency. I will just quote another good authority--Professor Charles -Graham. - -In his lecture upon “The Chemistry of Bread-Making,” delivered before -the Society of Arts in December, 1879, he said: “As regards the -importance of the constituents of bran, I say that the analyst, and the -physician who makes use of the analyst as his supporter, in bringing -before us the importance of brown bread as compared with white, and -who assert that in rejecting the bran we are guilty of a serious waste -of flesh-forming and bone-forming material, should not take a mere -chemical analysis as all-sufficient to establish their point. A table -showing, from an analyst’s point of view, the comparative merits of -various substances for feeding purposes, shows hay to be of high value -as a food, and even oat straw--as, indeed, every farmer knows from -experience. Still more valuable for their heat-giving, and especially -for their flesh-forming, materials, are linseed-cake, rape-cake, and -decorticated cotton-cake. Now those who hold, from mere chemical -analysis, that bran is of such high value as a food material that its -omission from flour would meet with grave censure, should, from a -similar analytical standpoint, urge us to eat hay, oat-straw, linseed -and cotton cakes. Doubtless these substances are of high value as food -for cattle, because the herbivorous oxen can digest and utilise them -with ease; not so with man, who would starve in a field where a cow or -a sheep would fatten. As with hay or linseed cake, so with bran; I hold -that the best mode of digesting such food substances is first of all by -the aid of our hoofed friends, to convert them into milk or cream, or -bacon, beef, or mutton.” - -Now these are the scientific opinions of two of our very highest -authorities. But of late I have been making brown bread out of a blend -of cereals made and milled by an enterprising firm of millers in the -North of England, and I must really say that it meets a long-felt want, -as it produces a brown loaf which is free from that nauseous taste of -which complaint is so often made with brown bread, and has a good nutty -flavour of its own. - - * * * * * - -In conclusion, let me say that we have reason for great hope for the -future of the Bread and Confectionery trade. Many earnest minds are -devoting both time and money to the development of this important -industry, and their efforts cannot fail to result in bettering the -knowledge and lightening the labour of the practical baker. - - - - -II. GENERAL REMARKS ON BAKING. - - -Baking as a business or profession has never been confined to the -making of bread alone--that is to say, bread in everyday use. A baker -we take to mean a person who bakes and prepares any farinaceous -substance intended for human food. Therefore baking not only includes -loaf-bread baking, biscuit baking, fancy-bread baking, but also -pastry-making and confectionery. It is common for all these branches to -be practised by the same person, and it is therefore fitting that they -should all be treated of in a work of this kind. This we intend doing -under separate heads. - - -ESSENTIALS OF GOOD BREAD-MAKING. - -Two of the most essential things in bread-baking, in order to produce -a full-flavoured, showy, and sweet loaf, are good yeast and good -flour. A good oven is also necessary. An oven which is either too hot -or too cold will spoil what would otherwise be a good batch of bread: -so great care should be used in order to have the oven of the proper -heat. Pan bread, or bread baked in tins, need a greater heat than batch -bread, as pan-bread dough is of a lighter nature than batch-bread -dough, and consequently requires more heat to keep it up. I do not -intend, however, going into the merits of different ovens, as I am not -competent to do so. There are so many different kinds, and each baker, -as a rule, seems to fancy what he has been most used to. For heating -purposes, cinders have taken the place of coals and wood, and (I think) -to the advantage of both master and journeyman. Cinders are cheaper -for the master and cleaner for the workman. - - -GERMAN YEAST AND PARISIAN BARM. - -Yeasts, or barms, are of many varieties, but I purpose here to deal -with only two kinds--that commonly known as German yeast, which is -mostly used in England, and Parisian barm, the kind most in use in -Scotland. - -A great point in working German yeast is to know when it is in proper -condition, as it is very liable to go bad in very warm weather, or if -kept in a very warm place. Care should be taken to keep it in a place -as near a temperature of 56° to 60° Fahr. as possible. Should there be -any suspicion that the yeast is not up to the mark, a simple and sure -test is to get a clean cup or tumbler, half fill it with warm water of -a temperature of 100°, put an ounce of loaf sugar in the water, and -when dissolved add one ounce of yeast. The yeast will, of course, sink -to the bottom, but if it is sound and in good condition it will rise to -the top in two minutes. Should it take much longer than that, the less -you have to do with it the better. - -Parisian barm makes a nice showy loaf, but for flavour I prefer German -yeast. To make Parisian barm 1 gallon of water is put into a pan at, -say, 140° Fahr.; weigh 2 lbs. of crushed malt, put it into the water -at the above temperature, cover it up for about three hours; one hour -before you are going to make your barm, that is two hours since you -put your malt to steep, put 3 gallons of water into a large pan, put -it on the fire; when it boils, add 2 oz. of good fresh hops, well boil -for twenty minutes; after which well strain the malt through a hair -sieve. Put it into the barm tub and add as much flour as can be nicely -stirred in with the barm-stick. Then put the boiling hop-water through -a sieve on top of the malt water and flour and well stir it. It should -be properly scalded. Some put the hops in a small linen bag made for -the purpose and put it in the boiling water, squeezing it against the -side of the pot before taking it out. Supposing it to be five o’clock -in the afternoon, it may be put by with a couple of sacks over it till -five o’clock next morning. Then “set the barm away” (as they say in -Scotland), by adding to the above liquid half a gallon of the barm -previously made. - -After the old barm is added to the new, in a few hours a scum gathers -on the top. This scum will either start at the side of the tub and work -gradually to the other side, or I have seen it start in the middle and -work itself slowly to the sides of the tub. When ready it should have a -nice clear bell top. It takes from ten to twelve hours to work before -it is ready. - -By following this method one may always have good barm. Cleanliness -is very essential for barm, and care should be taken that neither -grease nor churned milk shall get near it. We need scarcely say that -experience is required in this as in other things. - - -AMERICAN PATENT YEAST. - -I may add the following recipe for American patent yeast:--Take half -a pound of hops and two pailfuls of water; mix and boil them till -the liquid is reduced one half; strain the decoction into a tub, and -when luke-warm add half a peck of malt. In the meantime, put the -strained-off hops again into two pailfuls of water, and boil as before -till they are reduced one half; strain the liquid while hot into a tub. -(The heat will not injuriously affect malt previously mixed with tepid -water.) When the liquid has cooled down to about blood heat, strain off -the malt and add to the liquor two quarts of patent yeast set apart -from the previous making by the above process. Five gallons of good -yeast may thus be made which will be ready for use the day after it is -made. It takes about eight hours’ time to manufacture, but gives very -little trouble to the baker. - - -GOOD OR BAD FLOUR. - -Experience is also necessary to judge of flour; but any one in the -habit of using flour may form a pretty accurate idea whether it is good -or bad. If fine and white, it may be considered good so far as colour -is concerned; but if it be brown, it shows that it was either made from -inferior wheat, or has been coarsely dressed--that is, that it contains -particles of bran. However, brown flour may be of a good sound quality, -and fine white flour may not. - -To judge of flour, take a portion in your hand and press it firmly -between the thumb and forefinger, at the same time rubbing it gently -for the purpose of making a level surface upon the flour; or take a -watch with a smooth back and press it firmly on the flour. By this -means its colour may be ascertained by observing the pressed or smooth -surface. If the flour feels loose and lively in the hand, it is of good -quality; if it feels dead or damp, or, in other words, clammy, it is -decidedly bad. Flour ought to be a week or two old before being used. - - -ALUM IN BREAD. - -A common custom to improve flour was to add a small quantity of alum to -a sack of flour--a custom which, it may be hoped, is entirely a thing -of the past. According to Liebig, the action of alum in the process of -bread-making is to form certain insoluble combinations which render -digestion difficult, and detract largely from the value of bread as -food. Professor Vaughan, of the University of Michigan, says: “The use -of alum is an adulteration which is injurious to health. It unites with -the phosphates in the bread, rendering them insoluble, and preventing -their digestion and absorption. In this way, alum, when present, -diminishes the nutritive value of bread. While some gain may perhaps -temporarily accrue to the manufacturer through the covert perpetration -of this fraud, still no good to any one can result therefrom.” - - -BUTTER FOR PASTRY AND CAKES. - -Butter, which so largely enters into the pastrycook’s business, is -another important point for consideration. It should be perfectly -sweet, and before it is used made smooth on a marble slab. Salt butter -made from cows fed on poor pasture is the best for puff paste, and is -the most proper for ornamental work; it should be washed in water two -or three times before being used. On the other hand, for every kind of -cake the butter cannot be too rich. - - * * * * * - -In the course of this work I likewise intend to touch on the icing of -bride and other cakes. - - - - -RECIPES. - - - - -III. BREAD, TEA CAKES, BUNS, ETC. - - -1.--To make Home-made Bread. - -Put 1 stone of fine flour into your mixing pan; make a hole in the -middle of the flour, and press the sides of the hole to prevent the -liquid running through; dissolve 2½ ozs. of yeast in 1 gill of water, -and put it in the hole made in the flour; mix a little flour in the -liquid to make a thin batter, cover your pan over and let it rise to a -nice cauliflower top; when ready, dissolve 2½ ozs. of salt in 1 gill of -water, put this into your pan, and then take sufficient water (or water -and milk) to make all into a nice dough; let it rise a little in the -pan, then weigh off into your tins, and prove and bake. The heat of the -water should be between 80° and 90° Fahr. - - -2.--Bread-making by the Old Method. - -To make a sack of flour into bread the baker takes the flour and -empties it into the kneading trough; it is then carefully passed -through a wire sieve, which makes it lie lighter and reduces any lumps -that may have formed in it. Next he dissolves 2 oz. of alum (called in -the trade “stuff” or “rocky”) in a little water placed over the fire. -This is poured into the seasoning tub with a pailful of warm water, but -not too hot. When this mixture has cooled to a temperature of about -84 degrees, from 3 to 4 pints of yeast are put into it, and the whole -having been strained through the seasoning sieve, it is emptied into -a hole made in the mass of flour and mixed up with a portion of it -to the consistency of thick batter. Dry flour is then sprinkled over -the top. This is called the quarter-sponge, and the operation is known -as “setting.” The sponge must then be covered up with sacks, if the -weather be cold, to keep it warm. It is then left for three or four -hours, when it gradually swells and breaks through the dry flour laid -upon its surface. Another pail of water impregnated with alum and salt -is now added, and well stirred in, and the mass sprinkled with flour -and covered up as before. This is called setting the half-sponge. The -whole is then well kneaded with about two more pailfuls of water for -about an hour. It is then cut into pieces with a knife, and to prevent -spreading it is pinned, or kept at one end of the trough by means of a -sprint-board, in which state it is left to “prove,” as the bakers call -it, for about four hours. When this process is over the dough is again -well kneaded for about half an hour. It is then removed from the trough -to the table and weighed into the quantities suitable for each loaf. -The operation of moulding, chaffing, and rolling up can be learnt only -by practice. - - -3.--Modern Way of making Bread. - -The modern way of making bread is as follows: Put 1 sack, or 20 stone, -of flour into the trough, and, to take it all up, sponge 12 gallons of -water of the required temperature, and from 10 to 16 ozs. of yeast, -according to the strength. Then dissolve 2 lbs. of salt in the water -and mix all together. In the morning, or when taken up again, add 6 -gallons of water and 1½ lb. of salt. If a quick or “flying” sponge is -required to be ready in an hour and a half, empty the sack of flour -into the trough. Make a sprint, add 12 gallons of water of the required -heat and 2 lbs. of yeast, and as much flour as you can stir in with the -hand. Let it rise for one hour and a half; add 6 gallons more water (at -the temperature the sponge is set, which should be about 100 degrees -Fahr.), and 3½ lbs. of salt. Make all into a nice-sized dough; let it -stand three-quarters of an hour, then scale off. - - -4.--Scotch Style of making Bread. - -The bread-making industry has made great strides in Scotland. In -Glasgow alone there are two firms which each bake over two thousand -bags of flour a week--namely, J. and B. Stevenson and Bilsland -Brothers--while five other firms each bake from five hundred to one -thousand bags a week. In respect to the output, Scotland is a long way -in advance of either England or Ireland. I can well remember the time -when oatmeal cakes and scones were the staple food in Scotland; but -such food is now notable by its absence. This brings to mind a story -I once heard of an Englishman and a Scotchman who were arguing on the -merits of their respective countries. The Englishman said, “Man Sandy, -you are all fed on oatmeal! Why, in England we only feed our horses on -oats.” Sandy’s reply was, “I don’t na but what you say, man, is a’ very -true, but where wull ye get sic horses and where wull ye get sic men?” - -As I have said before, Parisian barm is the kind most used in Scotland; -in fact, nearly all the Scotch advertisements require “men used to -Parisian barm.” However, I have noticed lately that German yeast is -steadily making its way in the North. The Scotch used generally to make -their bread with what they called potato ferment. Now it is mostly -quarter or full sponges. To make 1 sack of flour into bread with a -quarter sponge take 1 gallon of water of the required temperature, add -½ a gallon of Parisian barm, and sufficient flour to make it into a -good stiff dough. This is generally set between one and two o’clock, -and is ready to take about half-past four. It should be dropped when -ready an inch in the quarter boat or barrel. Empty it into the trough, -add 10 gallons of water, dissolve 2 lbs. of salt, and mix all into a -well-beaten sponge. Add 6 gallons of water of the required temperature -and 1¼ lb. of salt in the morning, or when you take the sponge, and -make all into a nice dough. The softer you can work the sponge the -clearer and showier will be the loaf. - -To make 1 sack of flour with a full sponge, take 1 to 1½ gallons of -barm, about 10 gallons of water of the proper temperature with 2 lbs. -of salt dissolved in it; make all into a nice-sized sponge. When ready -add 6 gallons of water of proper temperature, and 1¼ lb. of salt, and -make it into dough. - -Care should always be taken to keep the barm clear of grease and -churned milk, especially if the milk is sour. - -There are a great many substitutes for wheat-flour bread, some of which -I will enumerate; but I do not think it needful to give the recipes -for them, as the recipes and formulæ I have given are evidently those -most popular in the English, Scotch, and Irish bakehouses. Among the -many substitutes for wheat bread are the following: bread corn, rice -bread, potato bread; bread made of roots, ragwort bread, turnip bread, -apple bread, meslin bread, salep bread, Debreczen bread, oat and barley -bread. The Norwegians, we are informed, make bread of barley and -oatmeal baked between two stones; this bread is said to improve by age, -and may be kept for as long as thirty or forty years. At their great -festivals the Norwegians use the oldest bread, and it is not unusual at -the baptism of infants to have bread made at the time of the baptism of -their grandfathers. - - -5.--Home-made Whole Meal Bread. - -Take 1 stone of wheat meal (granulated is best); put your flour in -the basin or mixing bowl, and make a hole in the centre of the meal: -dissolve 2 ozs. of yeast in a gill and a half of water, about 90° -Fahr.; pour the yeast and water into the hole, and mix in as much of -the meal as will make a soft batter; cover it up, and when it is ready -(which you will know by its having a nice cauliflower top), add 2½ ozs. -of salt, and sufficient water, at a temperature of say 80° Fahr., and -mix all lightly into a nice mellow dough; put it past, with a cover -over it, till you see it commence to rise; then divide it into the -sizes required and place in tins to prove; bake in a moderate oven. - -Wheat meals, and brown or second flours, do not require so much -working, either in the sponge or with the hands, in making it into -dough, as do the flours of a finer quality. - - -6.--Whole Meal Bread. - -(_For Master Bakers, as generally used in the Trade._) - -When setting your ordinary sponges at night for fine bread, dissolve -2½ ozs. of yeast and 2½ ozs. of salt in 1½ gallons of water, about 4° -to 6° Fahr., under whatever heat at which you may be setting your fine -sponges (according to the nature of the meal you are using); take as -much whole meal flour as will make this quantity of water into a weak -sponge, and in the morning, when it is ready, give it half a gallon of -water off same heat as your fine sponges, with 5 ozs. of salt, and make -all lightly into a dough so that there is no “scrape” about it, and -work off in the same way as your ordinary bread. - - -7.--Unfermented, or Diet Bread. - -Take 8 lbs. of granulated wheat meal (or meal made with a mixture -of barley meal and wheat meal properly blended), 4 ozs. of cream of -tartar, and 2 ozs. of carbonate of soda; mix the tartar and soda -amongst the flour and sift all through a sieve; make a bay, and add 2 -ozs. of crushed salt and 4 ozs. of castor sugar, putting the above in -the bay and pouring in a little churned milk to dissolve the salt and -sugar; then add as much churned milk as will take the 8 lbs. of meal -in, and make into a nice-sized dough; weigh off, and bake in oval tins. -They should be put immediately into the oven. - -I consider this the very best mode of making wheat meals into bread; -bread thus made eats well, and keeps moist longer than fermented meals. - - -8.--Rye Bread. - -Rye bread used to be in greater favour with the public than it now -is, but I consider that is owing to the sodden, heavy way in which -it is generally made; for if rye flour is properly blended with fine -flour, instead of the barley meal generally used, it produces a very -nice-flavoured loaf. - -Set a sponge at night with fine flour--say, 1 gallon of water, 1½ -ozs. of yeast, and 1½ ozs. of salt; let your sponge be about the same -consistency as for muffin batter; in the morning add 1 quart of water -and 3 ozs. of salt, and make your dough up with rye meal; let your -sponge be set of the same heat as for wheat meal bread. - -I have adopted this plan, and find it gives general satisfaction. In -baking wheat meals, or other meals of the same nature, your oven should -be 30° or 40° by the pyrometer under the heat used for fine bread. - - -9.--Coarse Bread. - -Coarse flour (or “overheads,” as it is generally called in the south -of Scotland) is the cheapest grade of flour made, and if properly -manufactured it will vie with any class of flour in the market for a -fine, sweet, nutty flavour; but of course it is dark in colour, and -I have seen flour of this grade very strong and carry an exceedingly -large quantity of water. - -In a test I had some time ago, I produced 110 4-lb. loaves, weighed -in dough at 4 lbs. 6 ozs., out of 20 stone of this flour; but I may -say that the flour was stone-dressed, and milled in the old style. -This same class of flour was in general use in Scotland twenty years -ago, and was generally made into coarse or second bread, and coarse -“twopennies.” Many a poor family--ay, and rich families too--have -thriven and had their hearts made glad on the produce of this grade of -flour. - - -TO MAKE COARSE BREAD.--Take, say 1 gallon of water, at the same -temperature as for wheat meal bread; dissolve 1¼ ozs. of yeast, and -the same quantity of salt, in the water; make into an ordinary-sized -sponge, and when ready in the morning add half a gallon of water and -about 4 ozs. of salt; then make all into a dough, and work off as other -doughs. - -This flour can be sponged the same way as fine flour for a quick or -flying sponge, only care should be used in not setting the sponge too -warm, as I find that it ferments and works more quickly than the finer -grades of flour. - - -10.--Germ Flour Bread. - -Germ flour is amongst one of the newest kinds of flour placed before -the public as a speciality. It is in appearance something like -granulated wheat meal, and the vendors of it claim to have found a new -process of removing the germ from the flour, and subjecting it to a -certain process before it is again mixed with the flour. I am having -germ bread made almost daily. Our mode of making it is as follows:-- - -Dissolve 1½ ozs. of yeast in half a gallon of water, say 90° Fahr., -and mix with this about 7 lbs. of germ flour; it should be ready in -about an hour and a half; weigh off and prove; use no salt, as we think -there is a certain amount of salt (or some substitute for salt) ground -amongst the flour. For this class of bread it makes a very nice-eating -loaf. - - -11.--Tea-Cakes. - -To be able to make a good tea-cake is considered a great point in the -baking trade. The following not only makes good tea-cakes, but also -capital Scotch cookies. - -Take ½ a gallon of water at, say, 94° Fahr.; add 1 lb. of moist sugar, -5 ozs. of German yeast; dissolve all together, add, say, 1½ lb. of -flour and mix. When well risen, add 1 lb. of lard and butter, 2 ozs. of -salt, a few currants to taste; mix all together into tea-cake dough. -Let it remain in a warm place for about half an hour, then weigh off at -8 or 9 ozs. for 2d.; prove, and bake. - - -12.--Queen’s Bread. - -This can be made with the same dough, but omitting the currants, and -making the dough tighter than for tea-cakes; add 1 egg to each pound of -dough. Weigh at 3 ounces for a penny, and make into different shapes, -such as half-moons, cart-wheels, twists, &c. - - -13.--Sally Luns, Yorkshire, or Tea Cakes. - -Take 1 quart of milk, ¼ lb. of moist sugar, and 2 ozs. of German yeast. -Ferment this with a little flour, and when ready, add ½ lb. of butter -(some add also 4 eggs to this quantity) and make into dough as for -tea-cakes; butter some rings or hoops, and place them on buttered tins, -weigh or divide into 5 or 6 ozs. for twopence; mould them round, put -them in the hoops, and, when half proved, make a hole in each with a -piece of stick. Do not overprove them, or they will eat poor and dry. -When baked, which will be in about ten or fifteen minutes, wash over -the top with egg and milk. - - -14.--Muffins. - -Sift through the sieve 4 lbs. of good Hungarian flour; take as much -water and milk as will make the above into a nice-sized batter, having -previously dissolved 2 ozs. of yeast, 1 oz. of sugar, and ¾ oz. of -salt in the liquid; then beat this well with your hand for at least -ten minutes; after it has half risen in your pan beat again for other -ten minutes; then let it stand till ready, which you will know by the -batter starting to drop. Have one of your roll-boards well dusted with -sifted flour, and with your hand lay out the muffins in rows. The -above mixture should produce 24 muffins. Then, with another roll-board -slightly dusted with rice flour, take the muffins and with your fingers -draw the outsides into the centre, forming a round cake; draw them into -your hand and brush off any flour that may be adhering to them; place -them on the board dusted with rice, and so on till all are finished; -then put them in the prover to prove, which does not take long. The -heat of the liquid for muffins (or crumpets) should range from 90° to -100° Fahr., according to the temperature of the bakehouse. - -One great point to guard against in fermenting cakes or bread, is to -see that your sponge or dough does not get chilled. By the time your -muffins are ready, have the stove or hot plate properly heated, then -row them gently on to the hot plate so as not to knock the proof out of -them; when they are a nice brown turn them gently on the other side and -bake a nice delicate brown. - - -15. _Another way._--Some persons now make muffins after the same -formula as for tea cakes, namely, moulding one in each hand and pinning -out the size required, then proving and baking. I have tried that -way more than once, but I cannot get the muffins to appear anything -like what my experience teaches me a muffin should be. Practice and -judgment are required to make one proficient in muffin-making. - -There has recently been introduced to the trade a hot plate heated with -gas, which will go a long way in helping the muffin-maker. It is both -cleaner, handier, and you can bake with it to a more certain degree of -heat. - - -16.--Crumpets. - -Crumpets are generally made by muffin-makers, the most modern formula -being the following:--Take 4 lbs. of good English flour, 2 ozs. of good -yeast, and 2 ozs. of salt. The flour and salt may be sifted together. -Take 1 quart of milk, and 1½ quarts of water, at about 100° Fahr.; -dissolve your yeast in the water, then mix in your flour and salt; make -all into a thin liquid paste, giving it a thoroughly good mixing; let -it stand for one hour, when you may again give it a thoroughly good -beat; let it stand for another hour, when it will be ready to bake off. -In the meantime thoroughly clean your stove or hot plate before it gets -hot, and give it a rub over with a greasy cloth; then have your rings -of the size required (they should be half an inch in depth); slightly -grease them, and see that they are greased for each round of the hot -plate; have a cup in one hand and a saucer in the other to prevent -the batter dropping; pour half a cup of the batter into the rings and -spread them with a palette knife to a level surface, putting what comes -off (if any) back into your pan. Then, when the bottom part is of a -nice golden colour, turn them over with your palette knife, turning the -ring at the same time, and bake off a nice colour. Remove them from -the stove or hot plate, and lay them on clean boards for a couple of -minutes, when with a gentle tap your rings will come clear; and so on -till finished. Nothing but careful practice, and particular attention -to the whys and wherefores of both hot plates and batter, will make a -good muffin or crumpet-maker. - - -17.--Oatmeal Cake. - -Take 7 lbs. of medium oatmeal, 1½ oz. salt, 1½ oz. carbonate of soda, -1½ oz. cream of tartar, 1½ lb. of flour, 1½ lb. of lard. Rub the -lard in the oatmeal and flour, having previously mixed all the other -ingredients in the oatmeal; make a bay, add sufficient cold water to -make all into a good working dough, weigh off at 8 ozs., mould up, pin -out the size you think most suitable, cut into four, and place on clean -dry tins. Bake in a sharp oven. - - -18.--Bath Buns. - -1 lb. of flour, 8 ozs. of butter, 8 ozs. of sugar, 4 eggs, a little -warm milk, 1 oz. of Parisian yeast, some citron peel cut small, and -half a nutmeg grated. This will make fourteen twopenny buns. - -Rub the butter in with the flour, make a bay and break in the eggs, -add the yeast with sufficient milk to make the whole into a dough of -moderate consistency, and put in a warm place to prove. When it has -risen enough mix in the peel, a little essence of lemon, and the sugar, -which should be in small pieces about the size of peas. Divide into -pieces for buns, prove and bake in gentle heat. They may be washed with -egg and dusted with sugar before proving. - - -19. _Another Way._--4 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 6 ozs. of sugar, -4 ozs. of yeast, 4 eggs, and sufficient milk to make all into a dough; -add essence of lemon. - -Warm the milk, add the sugar and yeast with sufficient flour to make -a ferment; when ready, add butter, eggs, and remainder of flour, with -currants or peel to taste. Weigh or divide into 3 ozs. each, mould -them up round egg on top rolled in castor sugar; slightly prove, bake -in moderate oven. - - -20.--Hot Cross Buns. - -Take 1 quart of milk or water, 3 ozs. of yeast, 12 ozs. of moist sugar, -12 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of salt, with sufficient flour to make a nice -mellow dough. - -Proceed the same as for tea-cakes (p. 24), adding spice, currants, and -peel to taste; weigh 4 ozs. for a penny, make a cross in the middle of -the bun, wash over with egg, and prove. Spice, however, is very seldom -used, as it tends to darken the buns, and thus giving them a poor -appearance. An ingenious apparatus has been invented called a Patent -Bun Divider, which greatly facilitates the making of these buns, and -cannot fail to be of great service where large quantities of buns or -cakes are required to be divided. All that is needed is to weigh 8 lbs. -of dough, place it in the pan, and at one stroke of a lever thirty buns -or cakes are divided ready to mould. - - -21.--Chelsea Buns. - -Take plain bun dough (or if for common buns, bread dough), roll it out -in a sheet, break some firm butter in small pieces and place over it, -roll it out as you would paste; after you have given it two or three -turns, moisten the surface of the dough, and strew over it some moist -sugar; roll up the sheet into a roll, and cut it in slices; or cut the -dough in strips of the required size and turn them round; place on -buttered tins having edges, half-an-inch from each. Prove them well, -and bake in a moderate oven. They may be dusted with loaf sugar either -before or after they are baked. The quantity of ingredients used must -be regulated by the required richness of the buns. ½ lb. of butter, -½ lb. of sugar, with 4 lb. of dough, will make a good bun. When bun -dough is used, half the quantity of sugar will be sufficient; some omit -it altogether. - - -22.--Balmoral Cakes. - -3½ lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar, 5 eggs, nearly 1 -quart of milk, a few caraway seeds, with 1½ oz. of carbonate of soda -and tartaric acid, mixed in proportion of 1 oz. of soda to ¾ oz. of -acid. - -Mix the soda and acid well with the flour, then rub in the butter and -sugar; make a bay with the flour, add the seeds, beat up the eggs with -the milk, and make all into a dough. Put into buttered pans according -to the size; dust with castor sugar, and bake in a moderate oven. - - -23.--Balloon or Prussian Cakes. - -Take currant bun dough and make it into a round flat cake of any -required size, and place it on a buttered tin. When it is about half -proved, divide it with a long, flat piece of wood having a thin -graduated edge, into eight equal parts, and place it again to prove. -When it is proved enough, brush over the top lightly with the white of -an egg well whisked, dust it with fine powdered sugar and sprinkle it -with water, just sufficient to moisten the sugar. Bake it in a rather -cool oven to prevent the icing getting too much coloured. - - -24.--Saffron Buns. - -Take the same mixture as for tea cakes, add 1 oz. of caraway seeds, and -colour it with saffron. Mould them round, and put them on the tins so -as not to touch. When they are near proof, wash the tops with egg and -milk, and dust them with castor sugar. Put them in the oven to finish -proving, and bake them in a moderately hot oven. - - -25.--Cinnamon Buns. - -Made same way as saffron buns, but leaving out the caraway seeds and -saffron, and using instead sufficient ground cinnamon to flavour them. - - -26.--Jubilee Buns. - -2 lbs. of flour, ¾ lb. of butter, ¾ lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, ½ oz. of voil. - -Rub the butter in with the flour, make a bay and add the sugar, pound -the salt in a little milk and pour it in, break the eggs, and mix all -together into a dough. Make six buns out of 1 lb. of dough, mould them -round, wash the top with eggs, put some currants on the top, and dust -with sugar. - - -27.--German Buns. - -4 lbs. of flour, 2 ozs. of tartar, 1 oz. of carbonate of soda, 12 ozs. -of butter, 1½ lbs. of sugar, 4 eggs, 10 drops of essence of lemon, with -milk. - -Mix tartar and carbonate of soda with the flour, make a sprint or bay, -put butter and sugar in bay, cream; add eggs, then milk, make all into -a dough, and size them off on buttered tins one inch apart. Wash over -with egg, and put a little sugar on top, and bake in a moderate oven. - - -28.--Common German Buns (for wholesale purposes). - -4 lbs. of flour, 2 ozs. of tartar, 1 oz. of carbonate of soda, ½ lb. of -lard, 1½ lb. of moist sugar, a little turmeric and churned milk; then -proceed as for best German buns. Bake in a sharp oven. - - -29.--London Buns. - -Take 1 pint of milk warmed in a basin, add 2 ozs. of yeast, 8 ozs. of -moist sugar, and make a dough with sufficient flour. When the sponge -is ready add 12 ozs. of butter, a pinch of salt, and have ready 4 ozs. -of chopped peel. Mix all in the dough with 2 eggs and lemon, and prove. -When about half proved wash over with yolk of egg. Put sugar on top -when full proved. - - -30.--Penny Queen Cakes. - -1½ lb. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 15 eggs, 2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of -patent flour. Cream butter and sugar in a basin, add eggs, then flour, -and as much milk as will make a nice batter. Bake in fluted pans. - - -31.--Patent Flour. - -Take 4 ozs. of tartar, and 2 ozs. of carbonate of soda, and 8 lbs. of -flour, and sift through a sieve three times. - - -32.--Penny Rice Cakes. - -4 lbs. of flour, 2½ lbs. of castor sugar, 1½ lb. of butter, 10 eggs, 1 -oz. of tartar, ¾ oz. of carbonate of soda, ½ lb. of ground rice, milk -to dough. Cream butter and sugar together, add eggs; when well creamed, -add flour, rice, and milk. Bake in small round hoops papered round the -side. - - -33.--Cocoanut Cakes. - -These are made in the same way, with the same mixture, but leaving out -the rice and adding the same quantity of cocoanut. Dust cocoanut on the -top of each. - - -34.--Albert Cakes. - -Cream 12 oz. of butter with 1 lb. of sugar, add 13 eggs; mix ½ oz. of -carbonate of soda and ¼ oz. of acid with 2 lbs. of flour; weigh 8 ozs. -of currants. Mix all together with milk, and bake in a small edged pan. -Cut into squares when cold. - - - - -IV. GINGERBREAD, PARKINGS, SHORTBREAD, ETC. - - -35.--Queen’s Gingerbread. - -Take 2 lbs. of honey, 1¾ lb. of best moist sugar, and 3 lbs. of flour, -½ lb. of sweet almonds blanched, and ½ lb. of preserved orange peel cut -into thin fillets, the yellow rinds of two lemons grated off, 1 oz. of -cinnamon, ½ oz. of cloves, mace, and cardamoms mixed and powdered. - -Put the honey in a pan over the fire with a wineglassful of water, and -make it quite hot; mix the other ingredients and the flour together, -make a bay, pour in the honey, and mix all well together. Let it stand -till next day, make it into cakes, and bake it. Rub a little clarified -sugar until it will blow in bubbles through a skimmer, and with a -paste-brush rub over the gingerbread when baked. - - -36.--German Gingerbread. - -Same as Queen’s Gingerbread, but dust tins with flour instead of grease. - - -37.--Spiced Gingerbread. - -Take 3 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 4 ozs. of -candied lemon or orange peel cut small, 1 oz. of powdered ginger, 2 -ozs. of powdered allspice, ½ oz. of powdered cinnamon, 1 oz. of caraway -seeds, and 3 lbs. of treacle. - -Rub the butter into the flour, then add the other ingredients, and mix -in the dough with the treacle. Make it into nuts or cakes, and bake in -a cool oven. - - -38.--Scarborough Gingerbread (for wholesale purposes). - -Take 180 lb. of treacle, 4 lbs. of lard, 4 lbs. 10 ozs. of carbonate -of soda, 2 lbs. 11 ozs. of caraway seeds, 2 lbs. 11 ozs. of ginger, -and ½ a gallon of water to dissolve the soda. Mix all together with a -sufficient quantity of flour. - -This should turn out about 390 lbs. of very good gingerbread. Wash with -glue and water which has been boiled. - -The taste for gingerbread is very widespread, large quantities of the -best quality being exported to India. Holland is regarded as carrying -off the palm for making good gingerbread. Shakespeare makes mention of -it in _Love’s Labour’s Lost_, where he says, “An I had but one penny in -the world thou should’st have it to buy gingerbread.” - - -39.--Ginger Cakes. - -2¼ lbs. of flour, ½ lb. of butter, 1 lb. moist sugar, 2 ozs. of ginger. -Rub the butter in with the flour and make the whole into a paste with -prepared treacle. Make them into round flat cakes, wash the top with -milk, lay a slice of peel on each, and bake in a cool oven. - - -40.--Prepared Treacle. - -Take 4 lbs. of treacle, 1 oz. of alum, 2 ozs. of pearlash, and mix. - - -41.--Prepared Treacle for Thick Gingerbread. - -Take 7 lbs. of treacle, 3 ozs. of potash, 1 oz. volatile salt, and -2 ozs. of alum. The colour of the gingerbread when baked will be -according to the quality of the treacle used. Golden syrup makes the -lightest coloured and best. - - -42.--Laughing or Fun Nuts. - -1 lb. of gingerbread dough, 3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of sugar, 1 oz. of -cayenne pepper. Mix all together, pin out in a sheet, one-eighth of an -inch thick. Cut them out the size of a penny. They are very hot. - - -43.--Grantham or White Gingerbread. - -4 lbs. of flour, 2½ lbs. of loaf sugar, 4 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of -volatile salt, 1 pint of milk, ½ oz. of ginger, ¼ oz. of ground -cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace, ½ oz. caraway seeds. - - -44.--Spice Nuts. - -3 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 4 ozs. of -candied peel cut small, 1 oz. ginger, 2 ozs. allspice, ¼ oz. of -cinnamon, 1 oz. caraway seeds, 3 lbs. prepared treacle. Mix same as -other doughs. - -45. _Another Way._--Take 3 lbs. of flour, 2 lbs. of sugar, 2 lbs. -of treacle, 2 ozs. of ginger, ¼ oz. of carbonate of soda, 2 drs. of -tartaric acid. Mix the day before baking. - -46. _Another Way._--7 lbs. of flour, 5 lbs. of syrup, 2¾ lbs. of moist -sugar, 1 lb. of lard, 4 ozs. ginger, ½ oz. of tartaric acid, ½ oz. of -carbonate of soda, ½ oz. of cinnamon, ½ oz. of mace. Mix and work same -as other doughs. This is a capital mixture. - - -47.--Light Gingerbread. - -Dr. Colquhoun gives a recipe for preparing a light gingerbread as -follows: Take 1 lb. of flour, ¼ oz. of carbonate of magnesia, and 1/8 -oz. of tartaric acid. Mix the flour and magnesia thoroughly, then -dissolve and add the acid; take the usual quantity of butter, treacle, -and spice; melt the butter and pour it with the treacle and acid into -the flour and magnesia. The whole must then be made into a dough by -kneading, and set aside for a period varying from half an hour to -an hour; it will then be ready for the oven, and should not on any -account be kept longer than two or three hours before being baked. -When taken from the oven it will prove a light, pleasant, and spongy -bread, having no injurious ingredients in it. That made with potash, -says Dr. Colquhoun, gives the bread a disagreeable alkaline flavour, -unless disguised with some aromatic ingredient, and is likely to prove -injurious to delicate persons. - - -48.--Italian Jumbles, or Brandy Snaps. - -6 lbs. of flour, 7 lbs. of good rich sugar, 1¼ lb. of butter or lard, -2 ozs. of ginger or mixed spice, 6 lbs. of raw syrup. Make the whole -into a moderately stiff paste or dough, roll out into sheets fully an -eighth of an inch thick, cut them with a plain round cutter of 3 inches -diameter, put them on tins well greased, and bake in a moderate oven. -When baked cut them from the tin and lay them on the peel-shaft till -they are hard. If they should get too cold to turn, put them in the -oven to warm. Brandy snaps are the same as above, without being turned. - -NOTE.--For cakes, spice nuts, or biscuits of a small size, that require -washing on top, use a piece of linen the size of the tin, dip it in -water, squeeze it, and spread it on top of the snaps or biscuits and -gently press your hand over it. This will prevent them from running -together on the tins. - - -49.--Halfpenny Gingerbread Squares. - -8 lbs. of flour, 4 lbs. of treacle, 3 ozs. of pearlash, 3 ozs. of -alum, and 1 oz. of carbonate of soda. Make a bay, put in the treacle, -add the soda, dissolve the pearlash in 1 gill of cold water and pour -it on the treacle; put another gill of water in a small pan, add the -alum, and let it boil till it is dissolved; then pour it on the other -ingredients. Mix all together, put into two tins about 24 inches by 18 -inches with an edge 1 inch high. Cut out of each tin 2s. 3½d. worth. -This mixture is for wholesale purposes, and pays well. - -NOTE.--Nearly all mixtures made in this way are best made the day -before. - - -50.--Hunting Nuts. - -7 lbs. of flour, 3½ lbs. of treacle, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of butter, -3 ozs. of pearlash, 3 ozs. of alum, half a teaspoonful of essence of -lemon, 1 lb. of lemon peel cut small. Mix as above; roll out the dough -in strips, and with the fingers break off pieces the size of a small -marble, lay on the tins in rows and bake in a moderate oven on tins -slightly buttered. - - -51.--Parkings. - -3½ lbs. of oatmeal, 1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 8 ozs. of moist -sugar, ½ oz. of baking powder, with sufficient syrup to make all into -a moderately stiff dough; weigh off at 4 ozs. for a penny, mould up -round, and place on tins 2½ inches apart. Bake in a cool oven. - -52. _Another Way._--6 lbs. of snap dough, 12 ozs. of moist sugar, 10 -ozs. of butter, 1¾ lb. of oatmeal, 1½ oz. of carbonate of soda, 1 oz. -of caraway seeds, 1 oz. of seasoning. Proceed as above. - - -53.--Parking Cake. - -3 lbs. of oatmeal, 1 lb. of flour, 4 lbs. of treacle, 1 lb. of good -butter, 2 teaspoonfuls of carbonate of soda, 1 gill of beer. Mixed up -as above. Baked in an edged pan 3 inches high, in a cool oven. - - -54.--Scotch Shortbread. - -Take 1 lb. of butter, 2 lbs. of flour, 8 ozs. of powdered sugar. Mix -the sugar in the butter, then take in all the flour and thoroughly mix -and rub all together till of a nice mellow colour and easy to work; -weigh off the size required, and shape into square or round pieces; -dock them on the top, notch them round the sides, put on clean dry -tins, and bake in a moderate oven. - - -55.--English Shortbread. - -1 lb. of flour, ½ lb. of sugar, ½ lb. butter, 2 eggs. Mix as for Scotch -Shortbread, ornament the tops with designs of neatly-cut lemon peel and -caraway comfits. - - -56.--French Shortbread. - -2 lbs. of flour, ¾ lb. of butter, ¾ lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, ½ oz. of -ammonia. Rub the butter in the flour, make a bay, put in the eggs, -sugar, and ammonia; beat them well with your hand, then draw in the -flour and butter; make all into a dough, weigh at 12 ozs., chaff them -up round, pin out a good breadth, mark them off into eight, place a -piece of peel on each, and bake in good oven. Cut the marked pieces -with a sharp knife after they are baked. - - - - -V. HARD BISCUITS. - - -57.--Machine-made Biscuits. - -In making the dough for hard biscuits it should be kept in a loose -crumbly state until the whole is of an equal consistency, then work, -rub, or press it together with your hands until the whole is collected -or formed into a mass. If the old-fashioned biscuit brake is replaced -by a biscuit machine so much the better for the baker and the goods he -turns out. If so, then all that is necessary will be to properly adjust -the rollers whether for braking (that is making the dough) or rolling -out for the cutter. If an amateur tries to make biscuits he will always -experience some difficulty in moulding them if they are hand-made. When -this is so it would be better to cut them out with a cutter. - - -58.--Ship Biscuits. - -These were evidently the first biscuits, from which have sprung all -the varieties of hard biscuits which we at present possess. They are -of the same character as those which were first made by man in his -progress towards civilisation, and were baked or roasted on hot embers. -Before this, men knew of no other use for their meal than to make it -into a kind of porridge. Biscuits prepared in a simple fashion were for -centuries the food of the Roman soldiers. The name is derived from the -Latin _bis_, twice, and the French _cuit_ = _coctus_, meaning twice -baked or cooked. - -Ship biscuits are composed of flour and water only; but some think a -small proportion of yeast makes a great improvement in them. The method -adopted is to make a small weak sponge as for bread previous to making -the dough; the necessary quantity of water is then added. The flour -used for the commoner sort of these biscuits is known as middlings or -fine sharps; and those made from the finer or best are called captains -or cabin biscuits. A sack of flour loses, by drying and baking, 28 lbs. - - -59.--Captains’ Biscuits. - -7 lbs. of fine flour, 6 ozs. of butter, 1 quart of water or milk. Rub -the butter in with the flour until it is crumbled into very small -pieces, make a bay in the centre of the flour, pour in the water or -milk, make it into a dough, and break it when made into dough, chaff or -mould up the required size, 4 or 5 ozs. each, pin out with a rolling -pin about 5 inches in diameter, dock them and lay them with their faces -together. When they are ready bake them in a moderately quick oven, of -a nice brown colour. These are seldom made with hand, as the machinery -in use outstrips hand-made biscuits of this class in speed and gives a -better appearance and quality. - - -60.--Thick Captains. - -7½ lbs. of flour, ½ lb. of butter, 1 quart of water or milk. Mix as -directed. When ready weigh out at 2 ozs. each, mould or chaff, roll -out, dock quite through and bake in a hot oven. All biscuits of this -class require thorough drying in the drying room. - - -61.--Abernethy Biscuits. - -(_Dr. Abernethy’s Original Recipe._) - -1 quart of milk, 6 eggs, 8 ozs. of sugar, ½ oz. of caraway seeds, -with flour sufficient to make the whole of the required consistency. -They are generally weighed off at 2 ozs. each, moulded up, pinned and -docked, and baked in a moderate oven. - -NOTE.--The heat of an oven is not required so strong for biscuits -containing sugar, as it causes them to take more colour in less time. - - -62.--Abernethys as made in London. - -7 lbs. of flour, 8 ozs. of sugar, 8 ozs. of butter, 4 eggs, 1½ pint of -milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water, ½ oz. of caraway seeds. - - -63.--Usual Way of making Abernethy Biscuits. - -Take 8 lbs. of flour, 1½ lb. of butter and lard, 12 ozs. of sugar, ½ -oz. of caraway seeds; some use about ½ oz. of powdered volatile salts. -Proceed to make into dough as before. Well break the dough and finish -with either hand or machine. - - -64.--Wine Biscuits. - -Take 8 lbs. of flour, rub in 2 lbs. of good butter. Make a bay, add -about 1 quart of water, take in your flour and butter and well shake -up, and note the more your mixture is shaken up and worked the better -biscuits you will have. Also note in shaking up these biscuits, when -they are mixed let your two thumbs meet, giving the mixture a shake up -in the air till you have all the dry flour worked in and the mixture is -nice and moist. Bake in a smart oven on wires. - - -65.--Soda Biscuits. - -14 lbs. of flour, 1¼ lb. of butter, ½ oz. of carbonate of soda, 3 -drachms of muriatic acid, 2 quarts of water. Mix as the last, adding -the acid mixed with half-a-pint of the water after the dough is shaken -up, then finish with the machine. - - -66.--Boston Lemon Crackers. - -26 lbs. of flour, 2¼ lbs. of butter, 5 lbs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of -ammonia, ½ oz. of essence of lemon, 3 quarts of water. This should be -made into small round biscuits rather larger than pic-nics. Bake them -in a sound oven. - - -67.--Pic-Nics. - -30 lbs. of flour, 4 lbs. of butter, 4 lbs. of castor sugar, 3 ozs. of -carbonate of soda, 2 ozs. of muriatic acid, 4 quarts of milk. - - -68.--Common Pic-Nics. - -28 lbs. of flour, 2 lbs. of lard, 2 lbs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of carbonate -of soda, 2 ozs. of hydrochloric acid. Mix as above and finish the dough -in the usual way. Bake in a moderately brisk oven. - - -69.--Luncheon Biscuits. - -56 lbs. of flour, 3½ lbs. of lard, 3½ lbs. of butter, 1¼ lb. of castor -sugar, 4 quarts of milk, 4 quarts of water, 2 ozs. of carbonate of -soda, 1½ oz. of hydrochloric acid. Mix as before described. Let the -dough be of a good stiffness and broken very clear. The cutters may be -either round or oval. They require about 20 minutes’ baking. As soon as -they are drawing put them in the stove for about two hours. - - -70.--Digestive Biscuits. - -Take equal parts of fine flour and wheat-meal flour and mix them -together to 5 quarts of milk and water. Use 2½ lbs. of butter and 2 -ozs. of German yeast. Rub the butter in the flour, make a bay, pour in -your liquor and yeast. Mix the whole into a dough, break it a little, -and put it in a warm place to prove. After it is light enough, break it -quite smooth and clear, roll it out in a sheet one-eighth of an inch in -thickness and cut out your biscuits. As soon as the biscuits are cut -out bake in a hot oven. - -71. _Another way._--5 lbs. of granulated wheat meal, 1 lb. of butter, ¼ -lb. of sugar, ¼ lb. of ground arrowroot, 4 eggs, 1 quart of milk, ¼ oz. -of carbonate of soda. These are mixed up in the usual way, pinned out -and cut with a small round cutter, docked and baked in a moderate oven. - - -72.--Small Arrowroot Biscuits. - -5½ lbs. of flour, 8 ozs. of butter, 6 ozs. of sugar, 6 ozs. of -arrowroot, 3 eggs, 1 pint of liquor. Prepare as the last. Make 16 -biscuits from 1 lb. of dough. Mould and pin into round cakes 3 inches -in diameter, dock them with an arrowroot docker, and bake them in a -sound oven. - - -73.--Coffee Biscuits. - -4 lbs. of flour, 4 ozs. of butter, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 5 large -eggs, with enough water to fill a pint. Make a bay; after the butter is -rubbed in with the flour, add the sugar and beat up the eggs and water -together; pour into your bay, make the whole into a dough, break it -clear and make it quite thin. When you finish it roll it out the tenth -of an inch in thickness, cut with your coffee biscuit cutter and bake -them in a brisk oven. If the oven should not be hot enough to raise -them round the edges twist up a handful of shavings rather hard and -place them round the edges of the biscuits when baking. - - -74.--Victoria Biscuits. - -3½ lbs. of flour, 2 ozs. butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, 1 pint of eggs. Make -a bay, rub the butter in the flour before you make a bay, add the -sugar, pour in the eggs, beat them well up with your hands, make the -whole into a dough, break well that it may be clear, roll into thin -sheets, cut with an oval cutter the same as used for Brightons, put -them on clean tins, and bake in a hot oven the same as Coffee Biscuits. - - -75.--Shell Biscuits. - -5 lbs. of flour, 12 ozs. of castor sugar, 12 ozs. of butter, 1 pint of -milk. Make all into a good dough, roll into sheets half-an-inch thick, -cut with an oval-pointed cutter in shape thus [Illustration], place -them on a crimp board and with a knife or scraper curl them up, put on -clean dry tins. Bake in moderate heat. - - -76.--York Biscuits. - -5¼ lbs. of flour, 12 ozs. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 1 pint of milk. -Mix as before into a dough, roll out the dough ¼ of an inch thick, cut -them into long strips, and cut them diamond shape or square, dock them -either on the table or crimping-board as your fancy dictates. Bake them -in a rather warm oven. - - -77.--Machine Biscuits. - -10 lbs. of flour, 2¼ lbs. of butter, 10 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 quart -of water. Mix up the same as the others, roll out a sheet ½ inch in -thickness, cut them out in various forms, dock them, and bake on clean -dry tins in a moderate oven. - - -78.--Bath Oliver Biscuits. - -1 quart of milk, 1 lb. of butter, 2 ozs. of German yeast, 6½ lbs. of -flour. Make the milk warm, add the sugar, yeast and a handful of flour -to form a ferment, let it ferment for an hour and a half. Rub the -butter into the remaining flour and make all into a nice smooth dough; -let it stand about two hours, then roll it out thin; cut the biscuits -out with a cutter about three inches in diameter, dock them well, place -on clean tins sprinkled with water, wash over with milk when you have -them all off, put them in a steam press or drawers for half an hour, -and bake in a cool oven. - - -79.--Edinburgh Biscuits. - -4 lbs. of flour, 12 ozs. of butter, 6 ozs of sugar, 1 pint of milk. -Mix up in the usual way, break smooth, and make 12 biscuits out of a -pound of dough; roll thin, dock them, and bake in a brisk oven. Sold at -a halfpenny each. - - -80.--Nursery Biscuits. - -Take 1 quart of milk, 5 ozs. sugar, 3 ozs. yeast, ¼ lb. of flour. Mix -all together into a ferment and let it drop, add ¼ lb. arrowroot, 5 -ozs. butter, and as much flour as will make a good dough. Put it away -till you think it is ripe enough to work off, which you will know by -its appearing light and spongy. When it has reached this stage take 4 -lbs. of the dough and roll it out ½ inch thick, cut out with a plain -round cutter an inch and a half in diameter, put them on tins a quarter -of an inch apart, prove them in steam press, and when ready bake in a -sound oven. Put them in a drying stove or some warm place to thoroughly -dry them, to make them light and easily digestible. - - -81.--Soda Biscuits. - -12½ lbs. of flour, 1 oz. of salt, 6 ozs. of lard, 1 oz. of acid, 1½ -oz. of soda, 2 quarts of water. Mix as for Machine Biscuits, break the -dough smooth and clear, let it lay for about half an hour, then roll -out in large sheets nearly the thickness of three penny pieces, cut -out with an oval spring cutter five inches in length and three inches -in breadth. The dough must be well made and of a good stiffness. When -cut out lay them on top of each other in sixes on carrying boards. Have -the oven of a good sound heat and well cleaned out, have a running peel -that will hold six biscuits, and run them on the sole of the oven. - - - - -VI. FANCY BISCUITS, ALMONDS, ETC. - - -82.--Digestive Biscuits. - -5 lbs. of wheat meal, 1 lb. of butter, 4 ozs. of sugar, 4 eggs, ¼ oz. -of carbonate of soda in 1 quart of water. Rub the butter in the wheat -meal, make a bay, add the sugar, eggs, and soda; mix well together, add -the water, and take in the wheat meal. After making it into dough, take -about 2 lbs., roll it out into a sheet the thickness of a penny; take -it on the pin again, and roll it on to a piece of cloth spread on the -table; cut them out with a small oval cutter, put on tins well cleaned -but not greased, and bake in a cool oven. - - -83.--Kent Biscuits. - -4 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1½ lb. of sugar, 10 eggs, and 3 drs. -of volatile salt. Rub butter in with flour; or make a bay, put in the -butter, partly cream it, add eggs and sugar, and voil after well mixing -all together; take in the flour and make it into a dough. Roll out a -sheet the thickness of two penny pieces, cut out with a small fluted -cutter, lay them in rows, take a brush and egg-wash top, lay them on -lump sugar previously broken into pieces the size of split peas, and -bake on tins slightly buttered, in a moderate oven. - - -84.--Imperial or Lemon Biscuits. - -Take 1¼ lb. of flour, 1¼ lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, 4 ozs. of butter, and a -pinch of volatile salt. Rub butter in the flour, then take the sugar -and mix it with the flour and butter; make a bay, put in your eggs and -voil, and mix all lightly but well together. Take a piece, roll it out -same as for hunting nuts, in strips, place on slightly buttered tins 1 -inch apart, and bake on double tins, unless the oven is very cold. - -NOTE.--In making fancy biscuits the tins must be as clean as it is -possible to get them. I have seen a whole batch of biscuits spoiled -through “only a little bit of dirt,” as the boy said when taken to task -for his carelessness. - - -85.--Venice Biscuits. - -5 lbs. of flour, 1½ lb. of butter, 2½ lbs. of sugar, 11 eggs, 1 lb. of -mixed peel and 1 oz. of volatile salt. Proceed to make the dough in the -same way as for Imperial or Lemon Biscuits, roll out in a sheet, and -cut out with a small oval fluted cutter; egg them on the top, and throw -them on large crystallised sugar. Bake on slightly buttered tins in a -moderate oven. - - -86.--Shrewsbury Biscuits. - -2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of butter, 4 eggs, pinch of -powdered cinnamon, and a little milk. - -87. _Another Way._--14 ozs. of flour, 10 ozs. of sugar, 10 ozs. of -butter, 2 small eggs, half a nutmeg grated, a little cinnamon and mace, -and a pinch of voil. - -88. _Another Way._--1½ lb. of flour, ½ lb. of butter, ½ lb. of sugar, -1 egg, with sufficient milk to make dough. Some add about ¼ oz. of -volatile salt. Rub the butter in with the flour, make a bay, add the -sugar, eggs, milk, and spice; make the whole into a dough, roll it out -on an even board to the thickness of an eighth of an inch, cut out with -a plain round cutter two and a half inches in diameter, place them on -clean tins, not buttered, bake in a cool oven. When the biscuits are a -little coloured on the edges they are done. - - -89.--Peruvian Biscuits. - -4 ozs. of flour, 1 lb. of rice-flour, ½ lb. of arrowroot, 1 lb. of -butter, 1 lb. of sugar, 6 eggs, ½ oz. of voil. Make into a dough same -as for other biscuits, roll into strips the thickness of your finger, -cut them the size of small marbles, and bake on slightly greased tins -in a moderate oven. - - -90.--Currant Fruit Biscuits. - -3 lbs. of flour, 12 ozs. of arrowroot, 14 ozs. of butter, 2 lbs. of -sugar, 10 eggs, 20 ozs. of currants, ½ oz. of voil. Proceed to make -dough as before; roll out in a sheet the thickness of two penny pieces. -Cut with a plain round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven. - - -91.--Snowdrop Biscuits. - -1 lb. of arrowroot, 1 lb. of flour, the whites of 10 eggs, ½ lb. of -butter, ¾ lb. of sugar, ¼ oz. of voil. Rub the butter in the flour, add -the arrowroot, make a bay, add all the other ingredients, mix into a -dough. Proceed the same as for Peruvian biscuits, and bake in a very -cool oven. - - -92.--Rice Biscuits. - -1¼ lb. flour, ¾ lb. rice-flour, ½ lb. butter, 1 lb. sugar, 2 eggs, ¼ -oz. of voil. Make into dough with a little milk, roll out in sheets -same size as for Currant Fruit, place on dry tins, and dust the tops -with ground rice. - - -93.--Genoa and Toulouse Biscuits, Exhibition Nuts and Marseillaise -Biscuits. - -6 lbs. flour, 14 ozs. butter, 4 lbs. sugar, 10 eggs, ¼ oz. voil. Make a -nice stiff dough with the rest milk. - -_Genoas_ are made by rolling out the dough in strips and cutting off in -pieces the length of the little finger. Wash them on top with white of -egg and throw on lump sugar the size of split peas. - -_Marseillaise Biscuits_ are made from the same dough, rolled out in -strips, but cut the size of small marbles. Put about twenty or thirty -of them into a sieve, and roll them about to make them round. These are -baked on dry tins. - -_Toulouse Biscuits_ and _Exhibition Nuts_ have currants added to them. -For _Toulouse_ biscuits, roll out the dough in strips, cut the same -length as Genoas, and wash the top with yolk of egg. Place on slightly -greased tins ½ inch apart. - -For _Exhibition Nuts_ cut the dough the size of small marbles, lay in -the tin with the cut side down, and press gently with heel of the hand. - - -94.--Walnut Biscuits. - -2 lbs. flour, ½ lb. brown sugar, ½ lb. castor sugar, ½ lb. butter, and -yolk of one egg. Simmer the sugar and a little milk over a slow fire, -rub the butter into the flour; after the sugar has become cold put it -into the bay and make into a stiffish dough. Put the dough into blocks, -and give them the impression of half a walnut, after which cut off the -surplus dough with a sharp knife, knock out the biscuits, and bake on -slightly buttered tins until a nice brown. After they are baked dip in -white of egg, and put two together so as to form a walnut. - - -95.--Queen’s Drops. - -8 ozs. butter, 8 ozs. sugar, 4 eggs, 10 ozs. flour, 6 ozs. currants. -Some add a little voil, but if well creamed there is no use for voil. -Cream the butter and sugar together, add the eggs, then flour and -currants; have ready a linen bag with a small tin funnel at the end -of it; have a small cork in the funnel so as to keep the mixture from -dropping out, drop them on paper about the breadth of a shilling, put -them on tins, and bake in a sound oven. - - -96.--Cracknel Biscuits. - -3½ lbs. flour, 3 ozs. butter, 6 ozs. castor sugar, 13 eggs, 2 drs. -voil. Rub the butter in the flour, make a bay, put in the sugar in -powder with the eggs and voil, make the whole into a dough of moderate -consistence; break it well and let it be quite clear and smooth; roll -out a quarter of an inch thick, cut out with an oval cutter, or one in -the form of an oak-leaf, dock them in the centre, lay them on a tray in -rows, cover them with a damp cloth. Have a copper on the fire boiling, -throw them into the water one at a time face upwards, and after they -have risen to the top be careful to turn each biscuit face upper-most. -Let them remain this way for two or three minutes for the edges to turn -up. When ready take a skimmer and throw them into a pail of cold water. -When they have been in the water for about an hour put them in a sieve -to strain, and bake on buttered tins in a moderate oven. When baked -they should be placed in the drying stove for a few hours. - - -97.--Premium Drops. - -1 lb. butter, 1 lb. sugar, 9 eggs, 1 lb. rice-flour, ¼ oz. voil, 1 lb. -flour, 4 drops essence of lemon. Proceed the same as for Queen’s Drops. -The batter, however, will be found a good deal stiffer. This makes a -nice drop when well got up. - - -98.--German Wafers. - -8 ozs. sugar, 8 eggs, 4 ozs. flour, 1 oz. butter. Put the flour in a -small basin, rub in the butter and add eggs and sugar; have the tins -well greased, and drop the batter on them with a spoon in pieces a -little larger than a penny. Bake in a cool oven. When baked form into -the shape of a cone, dip each edge in white of egg, and then each end -in coloured sugar. They make a nice show for a window. - - -99.--Crimp, or Honeycomb Biscuits. - -4 lbs. flour, 2 lbs. sugar, 1 lb. butter, 9 eggs, ½ oz. voil. Rub the -butter in with the flour, make a bay, add the sugar, eggs and voil. -Roll out a sheet a nice thickness. Cut out with a small round plain -cutter, but before doing so run over the surface of the dough with a -crimp-pin. Bake in a moderate oven. - - -100.--Hermit Biscuits. - -2 lbs. flour, 4 oz. butter, 12 ozs. sugar, ¼ oz. caraway seeds, 5 or -6 eggs, ¼ oz. voil. Make up the dough as usual for biscuits, cut them -out the size of spice nuts with spice-nut cutter, egg them on top; -have some loaf sugar, and almonds with the skins on cut the size of -split peas, place the biscuits on the sugar and almonds, gently press -them down before putting them on slightly buttered tins, and bake in a -moderate oven. - - -101.--Italian Macaroons. - -1 lb. of Valentia almonds, 2 lbs. of powdered sugar, 7 or 8 whites of -eggs. Beat the almonds with whites of eggs, but not so fine as for -common macaroons; lay out stiff on wafer-paper; have almonds cut in -slices, one into six pieces, lay them on the sides and top of each -macaroon; ice them well from the icing-bag, and bake in a slow oven. - - -102.--Common Macaroons. - -1 lb. Valentia almonds, 1½ lb. sugar, about 8 whites of eggs. Beat -the almonds very fine with the white of an egg in a mortar, and then -add the sugar and two or three whites of eggs; beat well together. -Take out the pestle, add two more whites, and work them well with a -spatter until the whole of the whites are incorporated. Lay out one on -wafer-paper and bake it in a slow oven. If it appears smooth and light -the mixture is ready, but if not add one more white of egg, as it is -hardly possible to ascertain the exact number of whites to use. If -ready lay out on wafer-paper, ice them with sugar on top, and bake in a -moderate oven. - - -103.--French Macaroons. - -1 lb. of Valentia almonds, 1 lb. of sugar, 5 or 6 whites of eggs. -Proceed as before, but instead of beating the almonds with whites of -eggs use rose or orange-flower water, and when beaten very fine put in -the whites of eggs and sugar, beating them well with the spatter. Lay -out one oval on wafer-paper and bake it. If it runs into its shape the -mixture is ready; if too stiff, add one more white of egg; lay out on -wafer-paper, dust sugar on top, and bake them in a good oven. - - -104.--Ratafias. - -8 ozs. of bitter almonds, 8 ozs. of sweet almonds, 2½ lbs. of sugar, -and about eight whites of eggs. Blanch and beat the almonds with -white of egg as fine as possible, and be careful when beating them -you do not oil them. When beaten fine, mix in the sugar and beat both -well together; then add more whites of eggs, work them well with the -spatter, adding more whites of eggs as you proceed. Then lay one or -two on dry paper half the size of a macaroon, and bake them in a slow -oven. If they are of proper stiffness lay them out; if too stiff, add -more whites of eggs to them. Should they be good they will come off the -paper when cold; if not, the paper must be laid on a damp table, when -they will come off easily. - - -105.--Princess Biscuits. - -These are exactly the same as common macaroons, but must be laid out -on wafer paper half the size, and a dried cherry put on the top for -effect. Use a square of citron on some, and a square of angelica on -others. Dust them on top with sugar, and bake them in a slow oven. - - -106.--Rusks. - -1 quart of sponge, 4 ozs. sugar, 2 eggs, 2 ozs. of butter. Mix all -the ingredients together, make it up the size of bun dough with best -flour, let it lie for two hours, make into long rolls and batch them on -tins, greasing between each roll. Bake in moderate oven for thirty-five -minutes. After they are baked let them lie for one day. Rasp top and -bottom off, cut into neat slices, and bake again in a moderate oven -until thoroughly crisp and dry, and of a nice brown colour. Put them in -a basket, and leave them all night in a warm place. This will make them -much crisper. Some add a pinch of ground alum. - - -107.--Rock Almonds (White). - -Blanch and cut the long way any quantity of almonds. Make some icing -pretty stiff (p. 63), put the almonds into it and let them take up all -the icing. Citron, lemon, and orange cut small may also be added. Lay -out on wafer paper in small heaps and bake in a very slow oven. - - -108.--Rock Almonds (Pink). - -Make any desired quantity of icing, colour it with lake finely ground, -mix in as many cut almonds, citron, and lemon as it will take; lay out -on wafer paper in small heaps and bake in a slow oven. - - -109.--Rock Almonds (Brown). - -Take any quantity of Jordan almonds, cut them up very small (but not -blanch them); also citron, lemon, and orange cut small. Prepare some -very light icing, with which mix the almonds, &c., into a soft paste. -Lay out on wafer paper and bake in a slow oven. - - -110.--Almond Fruit Biscuits. - -1 lb. of Valentia almonds, 1 lb. of powdered sugar, 2 or 3 whites of -egg. Beat up the almonds very fine with white of one egg; then rub the -sugar and almonds into a fine paste with 1 or 2 whites of egg, divide -it into two parts, work 2 ozs. of flour into one part and roll it out -thin for the bottom, cut it square and cover it with good raspberry -jam; then roll out another square the same size, and lay it on the top -of the fruit, cover this thinly with icing and cut it up into different -shapes according to fancy; lay them on wafer paper and bake in a slow -oven. - -NOTE.--There will be many cuttings from the above shapes which should -not be wasted. Put several bits together in little heaps on wafer -paper, put a little icing on top, a bit of green citron, and a small -bit of raspberry jam. A little pink icing may also be added. Bake in a -slow oven. - - -111.--Meringues. - -Take any desired quantity of whites of eggs (half duck whites if you -can procure them), whisk them until so stiff that an egg will lie on -the surface, then mix in with the spatter some fine powdered sugar -until they appear of a proper stiffness, which may be known by laying -out one oval with a knife and spoon. If it retains the mark of the -knife they are ready to bake; if not, more sugar must be added. Lay out -oval on dry paper and bake on a piece of wood two inches thick: this -is to prevent them having any bottom. They must have a pretty bloom -on them when baked. Take one carefully off with a knife, take out the -inside and fill it with any kind of preserved fruit. Then take off -another and do the same, putting both sides together; and so on till -they are all baked. If good they will have the appearance of a small -egg. - -112. _Another Way._--The whites of 12 eggs and 1 quart of clarified -sugar. Let one person whisk up the eggs as before directed while the -sugar is boiled to the degree called “Blown;”[A] then grain the sugar, -and mix the whites of eggs and the sugar together. Lay out and bake as -before directed. - - -113.--Common Drop Biscuits. - -Break the eggs into a round-bottom pan, whisk them till they are -hot, having your pan placed over hot water; take them off and whisk -them till they are cold, then put in the sugar and whisk till hot, -after which again whisk till they are cold. When the eggs and sugar -are perfectly light take out the whisk, stir in the flour gently. -From beginning to end the operation should not take more than twenty -minutes. Cover the tins or wires with wafer paper, and lay out the -biscuits any size required from a savoy bag. Dust them over with sugar -and bake in a hot oven. - -The savoy bag should be of the strongest fustian and so made as to -come to a point, like a jelly-bag, at the point of which must be fixed -a small tin pipe two inches long. Boil the bag two or three times to -prevent the mixture passing through. - - -114.--Savoy Biscuits. - -For ingredients, take 8 eggs, 1 lb. of sugar, and 1 lb. of flour, and -see directions below under _Fruit Biscuits_. - - -115.--French Savoy Biscuits. - -Take 8 eggs and 4 yolks, 1 lb. of sugar, and 1 lb. of flour, and see -directions below. - - -116.--Judges’ Biscuits. - -Take 8 eggs and 4 yolks, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of flour, and a few -caraway seeds, and see directions below. - - -117.--Lord Mayor’s Biscuits. - -Take 8 eggs, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of flour, and a few caraway seeds, -and see directions below. - - -118.--Fruit Biscuits. - -For these the ingredients are 6 eggs and 6 yolks, 1 lb. of sugar, and 1 -lb. of flour. - -To mix the above five recipes, observe the directions given for -_Common Drop Biscuits_. They must be baked in a hot oven. The _Savoy -Biscuits_ must be laid out from a savoy bag on “cap” paper one-half -round and one-half long. The _French Savoys_ must be laid out oval, and -when baked two are to be put together. The _Judges’ Biscuits_ are to be -laid out round, about the size of a half-crown; and the _Lord Mayor’s_ -are to be round, and of double the size. The _Fruit Biscuits_ are to be -laid out about the size of a shilling, and preserved fruit put between -two of them. Have ready some castor sugar, spread it on a piece of -paper, making it smooth on the surface; then lay each half-sheet of -paper on which the biscuits are placed on the sugar; let them remain a -moment, take them off, give them a shake and bake in a hot oven. Turn -each half-sheet on to a clean table, wash the bottom of the paper with -clean water, let them lie for a moment, and they will be found to come -off easily. Proceed in this way till all are off, and baked. - -NOTE.--Some prefer whisking up sponge mixtures cold. They keep better, -but are not so showy. - - -119.--Palais Royal Biscuits. - -Make the mixture exactly the same way as for French Savoys. Bake them -in paper boxes about two inches long, one inch and a-half wide, and -an inch deep. Dust them lightly on the top with sugar and bake in a -moderate oven. The boxes must be made of the best writing paper. They -are very proper to mix with rout biscuits. - - -120.--Rice Biscuits. - -Take the weight of 8 eggs in sugar, 2 eggs in flour, and 6 eggs in -rice-flour; or take 1 lb. of sugar, 4 ozs. of flour, 12 ozs. of -rice-flour, and 8 eggs. Mix cold in the same manner as for Savoy -Biscuits. Bake in a moderate oven in sponge frames nicely buttered. - - -121.--Scarborough Water Cakes. - -8 eggs, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of flour, and a little ground cinnamon. -Mix the same way as for Savoy Biscuits. Flavour with as much ground -cinnamon as will make them pleasant to the taste. When taken off the -paper put two together. - - -122.--Sponge Biscuits. - -Take 12 eggs, 1 lb. 2 ozs. of sugar, 15 ozs. of flour. Mix cold the -same as for Savoy Biscuits, which is the best method; or they may be -mixed hot. The pans must be neatly buttered with creamed butter, and a -dust of sugar thrown over them. Bake in a moderate oven, but not too -hot. The bottoms should be a neat brown. - - -123.--Almond Sponge Biscuits. - -Make exactly the same way as Sponge Biscuits, only have ready Jordan -almonds blanched and each cut the long way into 6 or 8 pieces. Put them -neatly on the top of each biscuit, dust sugar over them and bake as -before. - - -124.--Naples Biscuits. - -8 eggs, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 gill of water, 1 lb. 2 oz. of flour. A Naples -Biscuit frame is about 8 ins. long, 3 ins. broad, and 1 in. deep. In -this the partitions are upright, and must be papered neatly. Put the -sugar and water into a small pan, let it dissolve and boil; then whisk -the eggs. Pour in the sugar gently, and keep whisking until very light. -When it is quite cold scatter in the flour, and mix it until smooth, -stirring it as lightly as possible. Put it into the frames, well -filled, and bake in a good oven, but not too hot. Dust them with sugar -before putting in the oven. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[A] To boil sugar to the degree called “Blown,” see p. 74. - - - - -VII. PASTRY, CUSTARDS, ETC. - - -125.--Butter for Puff Paste. - -The butter must be perfectly sweet, and before it is used worked on a -marble slab to make it smooth. Salt butter from cows fed on poor land -makes the best puff paste, but it must first be washed in two or three -waters. For every kind of cakes the butter cannot be too rich. - - -126.--Puff Paste. - -3 lbs. of butter and 3 lbs. of flour. The butter must be tough: if -salt, wash it in two waters the night before using it. Take half of it -and rub into the flour, and with pure water make into a paste the same -stiffness as the butter. Roll it on a marble slab half an inch thick, -spot it with small pieces of butter, dust it with flour; then double it -up again, spot it as before, and roll it out again, spot it the third -time, roll out again twice, and put in a cool place for half an hour -with a cloth over it, when it will be fit for use. - -NOTE.--Common puff paste for large pies may be made this way by using 1 -lb. of butter and 2 lbs. of flour. - -127. _Another Way_.--2 lbs. 8 ozs. of butter, and 3 lbs. 8 ozs. of -flour. Mix the flour with water to the same stiffness as the butter, -then roll out the paste, spot it with the butter. Roll it out three -times, and dust it with flour as before. This paste is worse for lying, -and should therefore be baked as soon as possible. - -By using lard of a good tough quality, and mixing it as above, with the -addition of a little salt, a good puff paste can be made suitable for -wholesale purposes. - - -128.--Crisp Tart Paste. - -1 lb. of butter, and 2 lbs. of flour. Rub the butter and flour very -finely together, then mix it, with water, into a paste of the stiffness -of the butter. This is a choice paste for tarts made of fresh fruit. - - -129.--Sweet Tart Paste. - -6 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, 1 lb. of flour. Beat to a froth the -whites of two eggs, rub the butter and flour very finely together, make -the paste of the proper stiffness with whites of egg and a little water. - - -130.--Paste for a Baked Custard. - -8 oz. of butter and 1 lb. of flour. Boil the butter in a small -teacupful of water, mix it into the flour, make it smooth, and raise it -to any shape desired. - - -131.--Paste for small Raised Pies. - -12 ozs. of butter, 2 lbs. of flour, and 1 gill of water. Mix the same -way as for baked custards. - - -132.--To make a handsome Tartlet. - -Take a large oval dish and sheet it with the best puff paste; cut it -round the sides to make leaves, and fill it three-parts full with good -preserved fruit. On the fruit put some device in cut paste, such as a -large star, a sprig of flowers, or a tree. - - -133.--Nelson Cake or Eccles Cake. - -Take 2 lbs. of puff paste, roll out half of it, spread 1½ lb. of clean -currants and ½ lb. of raw sugar upon it with a little spice, and dash -a little water on the sugar and currants to make them unite; then roll -out the remainder of the paste and lay it on the top. Ice it well with -whites of eggs and sugar. Bake on a square tin in a good oven. - - -134.--To make a Custard. - -Boil 1 pint of milk with a bit of cinnamon and a little fresh -lemon-peel, then mix in a pint of cream and the yolks of 7 eggs well -beaten. Sweeten to taste and let the whole simmer until of a proper -thickness. It must not be allowed to boil. Stir it one way the whole -time with a small whisk, until quite smooth, then stir in a glass of -brandy. - - -135.--Common Custard. - -Beat up 3 eggs, add 1 gill of cream or new milk and a little sugar. Put -a dust of cinnamon on each before putting in the oven. - - - - -VIII. FRUIT CAKES, BRIDE CAKES, ETC. - - -136.--Directions for mixing Cakes made with Butter. - -Take your butter and work it on a marble slab, then cream it in a warm -earthenware pan, and be particularly careful not to let the butter -oil; add the sugar and work it well with your hand, mixing in one or -two eggs at a time, and so on progressing until all the eggs are used. -Beat it well up, and as soon as you perceive the mixing rise in the pan -put in the flour and beat it well. Then add the spices, currants, and -whatever else is required for the mixing. You may then put it up into -the tins you intend for it. It will be necessary during the time of -creaming it to warm it two or three times, particularly in cold weather. - -137. _Another Way._--Proceed with the butter and sugar as before. Have -ready separated the whites from the yolks of the eggs; mix in the yolks -two or three at a time; let another person whisk up the whites stiff. -Then put them to the other mixture and proceed as before directed. - - -138.--London Way of mixing Cakes. - -Weigh down the flour and sugar on a clean smooth table, make a hole in -it, and bank it well up; in this hole put your eggs; cream the butter -in an earthenware pan; then add to the flour and sugar the eggs and -butter; mix all together and beat up well with both hands. You may work -it up this way as light as a feather; then add the currants, spices, -&c. - -139. _Another Way._--Take six pieces of cane about 18 inches long, -tie them fast together at one end, but in order to make them open put -in the middle, where you tie them, one or two pieces half the length. -This is called a mixing-rod. Provide a tall pot, as upright as can be -procured, which make hot; work your butter on a marble slab, then put -it in the pan and work it well round with the rod until it is nicely -creamed; put in the sugar and incorporate both together; add one or two -eggs at a time, and so on progressively until they are all used up; -work away with the rod with all speed, and as soon as it is properly -light (which you may know by its rising in the pan) take it out and mix -in the flour, spices, currants, &c., with a spatter. This is esteemed -the very best way of mixing cakes. - - -140.--Citron Cake. - -1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. 2 ozs. of sugar, 6 eggs, and 4 yolks; 1 lb. 4 -ozs. of flour. Cut 4 ozs. of green citron in long thin pieces and place -them in two or three layers as you put the cake up. It must be baked in -a deep tin or rim papered with fine paper. Neatly buttered and baked in -a slow oven. - - -141.--Common Fruit Cake. - -3 lbs. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 24 eggs, 5¼ lbs. of flour, 4½ lbs. -of currants, 1 lb. 8 ozs. of lemon and orange peel, a little mace, a -pint of warm milk, ¼ oz. of soda, about ½ oz. cream of tartar. Proceed -as directed. - - -142.--Pound Cakes. - -1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar, 8 eggs, 1 lb. 2 ozs. of flour, 1 lb. 8 -ozs. of currants, 8 ozs. of orange and lemon peel. Proceed as directed. - - -143.--Seed Cakes. - -1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar, 8 eggs, 1 lb. of flour, caraway -seeds. Some put 1 tablespoonful of brandy and 2 ozs. of cut almonds. - - -144.--Two and Three Pound Cakes. - -2 lbs. 4 ozs. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 16 eggs, 2 lbs. 6 ozs. of -flour, 3 lbs. 8 ozs. of currants, 1 lb. 8 ozs. of orange, lemon, and -citron; almonds and brandy if required; ¾ oz. of cream of tartar and -carbonate of soda. Proceed as directed. - - -145.--Another Seed Cake. - -2 lbs. 8 ozs. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 16 eggs, 2 lbs. 4 ozs. of -flour, 4 ozs. of cut almonds, caraway seeds, and a glass of brandy; ¾ -oz. of cream of tartar and carbonate of soda. Proceed as directed. - - -146.--Four and Six Pound Cakes. - -2 lbs. 8 ozs. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 16 eggs, 3 lbs. 8 ozs. of -flour, 6 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. of orange and lemon, citron and -almonds. Proceed as directed. - - -147.--Bride Cakes. - -The following mixtures are made in a few first-class shops, and the -recipes for the same are not generally known. The prices quoted allow -for almond-icing as well. - - ---------------+--------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------- - Ingredients. |10s. 6d.| 12s. | 15s. | 18s. | £1 1s.|£1 11s.| £2 2s. - ---------------+--------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------- - | lb. oz.|lb. oz.|lb. oz.|lb. oz.|lb. oz.|lb. oz.|lb. oz. - Butter | 0 11 | 0 13 | 1 1 | 1 4 | 1 6 |2 1 | 2 12 - Sugar | 0 7 | 0 8 | 0 10 | 0 12 | 1 0 |1 6 | 1 12 - Currants | 1 4 | 1 6 | 1 10 | 2 0 | 2 8 |3 12 | 5 0 - Orange and | | | | | | | - citron, mixed| 0 6 | 0 7 | 0 8 | 0 10 | 0 12 |1 2 | 1 8 - Almonds | 0 1½| 0 2 | 0 2 | 0 3 | 0 3 |0 4 | 0 6 - Mixed spice[B] | 0 0½| -- | 0 0¾| -- | 0 1 |0 1½| 0 2 - Flour | 0 11 | 0 13 | 1 1 | 1 4 | 1 6 |2 1 | 2 12 - Eggs, number of| 6 | 7 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 18 | 24 - Brandy or {| Wine- | Wine- | Wine- | Wine- |¼-pint.|¼-pint.|½-pint. - brandy and {| glass- | glass-| glass-| glass-| | | - wine {| ful. | ful. | ful. | ful. | | | - ---------------+--------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------- - - -148.--Icing Sugar for Bride Cakes, &c. - -To make this take 2 lbs. of finely powdered icing sugar (first having -an earthenware pan made warm), put in six fresh whites of eggs, and -immediately whisk them, and as quickly as possible, until quite stiff; -then add the sugar by degrees, whisking all the time. As soon as it -appears light cease whisking, and beat it well with the spatter until -you have put in all the sugar. A little tartaric acid or lemon-juice -may be added towards the end of the mixing. To know when it is -sufficiently beaten, take up a little on the spatter and let it drop -into the basin again. If it keeps its shape it is ready; if it runs it -is either beaten too little or requires more sugar. - -A good substitute for eggs is French glue. Take a quarter of an ounce -of it and fully one imperial pint of boiling water. Pour the water -on the glue, and stir in with a spoon until all is dissolved. If -convenient, make it two days before using. The glue is used similar to -eggs. Add to it a small pinch of tartaric acid. This glue is mostly -used for wholesale or cheap purposes. - - -149.--Almond Icing for Bride Cakes. - -1 lb. Valencia almonds, 2 lbs. of icing sugar, and about 3 whites of -eggs and 2 yolks. Blanch and beat the almonds. Fine with whites of -eggs, then add the sugar and whites and yolks, beat them well together -and make them into a stiffish paste. As soon as the cake is baked, take -it out and take off the hoop and the paper carefully from the sides, -then put the almond icing carefully on the top of the cake, and make it -as smooth as you can. Put into the oven, and let it remain until the -almond icing is firm enough and of the colour of a macaroon; let it -stand two or three hours, then ice it with sugar icing. - - -150.--Wedding Cake. - -1¼ lb. of flour, 1 lb. 2 oz. of butter, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 4 lbs. -of currants, 1½ lb. of mixed peel, 2 nutmegs grated, ½ oz. ground -cinnamon, 10 eggs, ½ lb. blanched sweet almonds cut in halves, and a -wineglassful of brandy. Mix as before directed. - - -151.--Rich Twelfth Cake. - -Same as wedding cake. In olden times a bean and a pea were introduced -into the cake to determine who should be king and queen of the evening -festivities. - - -152.--Madeira Cakes. - -1¾ lb. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of patent -flour, 24 eggs. Proceed as before directed. This mixing makes eight -cakes, selling at a shilling each. Put two thin slices of citron on -each. Bake in a cool oven. Note.--Patent flour is made with 8 lbs. of -flour, 4 ozs. cream of tartar, 2 ozs. carbonate of soda, and sifted -three times. - - -153.--Plum Cake. (_As made for best shops in Edinburgh._) - -3 lbs. of butter, 3 lbs. of sugar, 4½ lbs. of flour, 40 eggs, 8 or 10 -lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. of peel, a few drops of essence of lemon. -Cream and finish as before directed. - - -154.--Genoa Cake. - -1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar, 1¼ lb. of flour, 1 lb. of eggs, 2½ -lbs. of currants, washed and picked, 1½ lb. of orange peel. Bake in a -small square-edged tin. Proceed as before directed. When nicely in the -tin have prepared some blanched and chopped almonds, strew them rather -thickly on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. - - -155.--Rice Cake (_Scotch Mixture_). - -2 lbs. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 2¼ lbs. of flour, ¼ lb. of rice -flour, 20 eggs, essence of lemon. Proceed as before directed. - - -156.--Madeira Cake (_Scotch Mixture_). - -1¼ lb. of butter, 1¾ lb. of sugar, 2¼ lbs. of flour, 20 eggs, a -small pinch of tartaric acid and carbonate of soda. Proceed as before -directed. - - -157.--Pond Cake or Dundee Cake. - -1 lb. of butter, 1¼ lb. of sugar, 13 eggs, 1¾ lb. of flour, 2 lbs. of -peel cut in small squares. After it is creamed up and ready, entirely -cover the top with small comfits. Bake in moderate oven. Do not cream -it so light as for other cakes so as to keep the comfits from sinking -in the cake. - - -158.--Silver Cake. - -1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 pint of whites of eggs, 1¾ lb. of -flour, almond to flavour. - - -159.--Gold Cake. - -1¼ lb. of butter, 1½ lb. of sugar, 1 pint of yolks of eggs, 1¾ lb. of -sultana raisins, ½ lb. of lemon peel, 2 lbs. of flour, ¼ lb. of patent -or soda flour. Add a little milk to make it as soft as the Silver -mixture, paper a deep square tin, and spread the gold mixture 2 inches -thick, then spread the silver mixture nicely over the top of the gold. -Baking, about 2¼ hours. - - -160.--Plum Cake at 6d. per lb. (_As sold by Grocers._) - -8 lbs. of flour, 2 lbs. of butter, 3 lbs. of sugar, 4 lbs. of currants, -½ lb. of peel, 15 eggs, 2 ozs. of carbonate of soda, 3 ozs. of cream of -tartar, essence of lemon, and fresh churned milk, to make into a nice -dough. Have some square one-pound tins nicely papered, and weigh in 1 -lb. of the mixture. This is an excellent mixture if well got up. - -161. _Another Way._--1 lb. of lard, 1¼ lb. of sugar, 8 ozs. of peel, 5 -lbs. of currants, 6 lbs. of flour, a grated nutmeg, 1 oz. carbonate of -soda, 2 ozs. cream of tartar, 8 eggs, the rest milk. - -162. _Another Way._--½ lb. of butter, ¾ lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, 3 lbs. -of currants, 4 lbs. of flour, ¾ oz. of carbonate of soda, ½ oz. of -tartaric acid. Dough with milk. - - -163.--Mystery, or Cheap Plum Cake at 3d. per lb. - -8 lbs. of common flour, 3 lbs. of brown sugar, 1 lb. of lard, 2 ozs. of -peel, 3 lbs. of currants, 1½ oz. of spice, 2 ozs. of carbonate of soda, -1 oz. of tartaric acid. Dough with milk. Bake in a slow oven, wash with -egg on top. - - -164.--Plum Cake at 4d. per lb. - -4 lbs. of flour, 3 lbs. of currants, 12 ozs. of lard, 14 ozs. of sugar, -1½ oz. of cream of tartar, 1 oz. of carbonate of soda, ¼ oz. of spice. -Dough with good churned milk. - - -165.--Lafayette Cakes. - -½ lb. of butter, ½ lb. of sugar, ½ lb. of flour, 6 eggs, ¼ oz. of -volatile salts in powder. Mix same as pound cake. Bake in round flat -tins about ¼ of an inch deep, or drop some of the paste on whity-brown -paper and spread it out into a round thin cake about 6 inches in -diameter. This will make 12 cakes. Bake them in a moderate oven in -tins. Take them off the paper when baked, spread some raspberry or -other jam on two of them and put three together. Trim them round the -edges with a knife, and divide or cut them into 4, 6, or 8 parts -according to the price at which they are to be sold. - - -166.--American Genoa Cake. - -Take 7 lbs. of common butter or butterine, 7 lbs. of castor sugar, 60 -eggs, 12 lbs. of flour, 10 lbs. of currants, 3 lbs. of chopped peel, -1½ oz. of cream of tartar, ¾ oz. of soda, about 2 pints of churned -milk. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the eggs, then mix all -the other ingredients together. Paper a square-edged pan, lay on your -batter about three inches thick, and bake in a sound oven. After the -cake is baked, put it aside in a cool room till next morning, when you -may turn it out of the tin, and then, after taking the paper nicely -off, cut it into suitable sizes. - -NOTE.--The sides of the tin before being papered must be lined with -wood upsets. - -This cake is sold at 6d. per pound. - - -167.--Lemon Cake. - -¾ lb. of butter, ¾ lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of eggs, ½ gill of brandy, ½ lb. -of flour, the grated rind of two lemons. Cream the butter, sugar, and -eggs, in the usual way, stir in the lemon rind, brandy, and flour; put -in small moulds and bake in a moderate oven. - - -168.--Bristol Cake. - -2 lbs. of butter, 2 lbs. of sugar, 2 lbs. of eggs, 2 lbs. of flour, 1 -lb. of patent flour, 3 lbs. of sultana raisins. Cream this cake in the -usual way, bake in small round hoops, weighed out at 1 lb. each. Bake -in moderate oven. - - -169.--Jubilee Cakes. - -4½ lbs. of flour, 1 lb. 6 ozs. of butter, 1 lb. 14 ozs. of castor -sugar, 11 eggs, 1¼ oz. of carbonate of soda, 1¾ oz. of cream of tartar, -churned milk to dough. Weigh the flour, add the tartar and soda, make -a bay; have the butter previously warmed, put it in the bay with the -sugar, cream it well with your hand, adding the eggs gradually, then -mix all together and make into a nice batter. Weigh at 1 lb. for -sixpence. - -This makes a number of cakes of various kinds--such as _Citron Cake_, -by adding a small quantity of thinly chopped citron; _Madeira Cake_, by -dusting the top with castor sugar, and placing two pieces of peel on -the top; _Plum Cake_, by adding a few currants and cut peel; _Cocoa-nut -Cake_, by adding a little cocoa-nut to the mixture, and dusting the top -with cocoa-nut; and _Seed Cake_, by adding a few seeds. It is a capital -mixture when nicely got up. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[B] Nutmegs, mace, and cinnamon. - - - - -IX. HANDY WHOLESALE RECIPES FOR SMALL MASTERS. - - -170.--Soda Cakes or Scones. - -12 lbs. of flour, 6 ozs. of cream of tartar, 3 ozs. of carbonate of -soda, 12 ozs. of lard, 2 ozs. of salt. Dough up with churned milk, mix -the tartar and soda with the flour, rub the lard in the flour, make a -bay, add the salt, and make into a nice dough with milk. Weigh off at 6 -ozs. for a penny. Mould round, pin out the breadth of a small saucer, -wash the top with milk, bake on the bottom of a good sound oven. Dock -them with a docker. - - -171.--Currant or Milk Scones. - -6 lbs. of flour, 6 ozs. of lard, 6 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs. of cream of -tartar, 1½ oz. soda, 1 lb. of currants, 1 oz. of salt; buttermilk to -dough. Mix as above. Weigh off at 11 ozs. for 2d., mould, pin out and -cut in four; put on flat clean tins; wash with egg on top. Bake in a -sound oven. - - -172.--Sugar or White Spice Biscuits. - -7 lbs. of good fine flour, 12 ozs. of lard, 3 lbs. of moist sugar, 4 -ozs. of ammonia, churned milk to dough; mix as above, but do not work -the mixture too much. Take about 4 lbs. of the dough, work it into a -square or round shape, pin it out a little thicker than a penny piece, -cut out either in shapes or farthing or halfpenny biscuits, but well -dock the sheet before you cut them. Bake on greased tins; wash on top; -a few currants strewn on the shapes. Bake in a sharp oven. - - -173.--Halfpenny Scotch Cakes. - -3½ lbs. of flour, 12 ozs. of lard, 12 ozs. of sugar, ¼ oz. voil, and a -little milk, as much as will dissolve the volatile salts and sugar. Mix -as above, but well rub the dough; make it nice and easy to work off. -Pin out a sheet about ¼ of an inch thick, cut out with a small round -cutter; dock each one well; pinch round the edges with the finger and -thumb. Bake on clean tins, but not greased, in a moderate oven. - - -174.--Large Square Penny Albert Cake. - -Rub 6 ozs. of lard in 6 lbs. of flour, then add 4 ozs. of cream of -tartar and 2 ozs. of soda. Mix all together and make a bay. Put in the -bay 2 lbs. of sugar and 3 lbs. of currants, and dough with churned -milk, a little softer than for plum cake mixture. Have a large-edged -pan cleaned and greased, put the mixture in the tin and spread it -equally over the tin, putting your hand occasionally in a little milk -to smooth over the surface. This mixture is best made up in a basin or -large bowl and poured into the tin. Bake in a moderate oven and cut -when cold. - - -175.--Brandy Snaps. - -Rub 1 lb. of lard in 4 lbs. of flour, put 4 lbs. of moist sugar on it -and mix together; make a bay, put in 4 lbs. of syrup and about half a -teaspoonful of essence of lemon. Make all into dough, pin it out, cut -with a small round cutter, about the thickness of a penny. Bake on -well-greased tins in a moderate oven. You can curl them round the peel -or have them plain. - - -176.--Nonpareil Biscuits. - -Rub 6 ozs. of lard in 5 lbs. of flour, make a bay, put in 2½ lbs. of -moist sugar, 2 ozs. of ammonia; dough with milk; make into a dough, -but do not work it too much. Cut out the same size and thickness as for -brandy snaps; wash the top with milk; have some nonpareil sweets spread -on the table, throw the biscuits on them, put on slightly greased tins. -Bake in moderate oven. - - -177.--Common Halfpenny Queen Cake. - -3 lbs. of flour, add 1 oz. of cream of tartar, 1 oz. of soda; mix; rub -in 12 ozs. of lard, make a bay, put in 24 ozs. of castor sugar, essence -of lemon; dough with churned milk; dough rather soft. Have some fluted -tins ready greased, take a spoon and three-parts fill your tins. Bake -in a moderate oven. - - -178.--Halfpenny Lunch Cake. - -2 lbs. of flour, 4 ozs. of lard, 8 ozs. of sugar, 8 ozs. of currants, 1 -oz. of soda, 1 oz. of cream of tartar; dough with churned milk and mix -as for queens. Have some square sponge cake tins ready greased, take a -spoon and three-parts fill them; wash with egg on top, dust them with -castor sugar and bake in sound oven. - - -179.--Polkas or Halfpenny Sponges. - -Put 2½ lbs. of good flour on the table, make a bay, put in S eggs, 1½ -lb. of castor sugar, and 1 oz. voil; beat eggs, sugar, and ammonia with -your hand for twelve or fifteen minutes, add a little churned milk, -take in your flour and beat all well together with 12 drops of essence -of lemon. Have your tins greased, take a spoon, half fill it with the -mixture; put on tins about 2 inches apart; put about 6 or 8 currants on -each and bake in a hot oven. - - - - -THE SUGAR-BOILER’S ASSISTANT. - - - - -THE SUGAR-BOILER’S ASSISTANT. - - - - -X. CONFECTIONS IN SUGAR-BOILING. - - -180.--Clarifying Sugar. - -The clarifying and boiling of sugar to the different degrees must -be considered as the key to all sorts of stove working, and I will -give here the method used for clarifying sugar. The pan used must be -perfectly clean and bright. Whisk two whites of eggs in one pint of -water; break 30 lbs. of good lump sugar into small pieces and put it -into the pan; pour over it 6 quarts of water, set it on a clear stove -to melt, but be careful it does not blubber and boil before it is -melted; when you see it rise it is then boiling, and must be stopped -immediately by putting in 1 quart of water; when it rises again add the -same quantity of water, and so on two or three times; this prevents the -scum from boiling into the sugar and makes it rise to the top. Draw the -pan to one side of the fire and take all the scum off; let it continue -to simmer. Keep adding a little water to make the remaining part of the -scum rise. By this time the scum will be very white and tough, which -also take off if the sugar appear clear. Dip in your finger, and if a -drop hang from it, it is of the first degree, called smooth, and may be -put by for use. - -You may clarify a much smaller quantity of sugar by carefully attending -to these instructions. - - -181.--Testing Sugar. - -Granulated sugar is considered the best to use, as it is less liable -to adulteration than any other kind. Of moist sugars, Demerara is the -best. The simplest way to test sugar for its purity is to dissolve a -little in a glass of clear water. If the sugar be quite pure the water -will only be slightly thickened, but not in the least clouded, neither -will there be any sediment. In keeping sugar care should be taken to -protect it from dampness and vermin--especially ants. - - -To boil Sugar to the different degrees. - -182. _To the degree called “Pearled.”_--Cover your preserving pan -bottom two or three inches deep, boil it briskly over a clear fire for -a short time, then dip in your finger and put it to your thumb, if on -separating them a small string of sugar adheres to each it is boiled to -the degree called pearled. - -183. _To the degree called “Blown.”_--After you have ascertained that -the sugar is boiled to the degree called pearled put in the skimmer and -let it boil a few minutes, then shake it out of the sugar and give it a -blow. If sugar fly from the skimmer in small bladders it is boiled to -the degree called blown. - -184. _To the degree called “Feathered.”_--Continue to boil the sugar -from blown for a short time longer; take out the skimmer and give it -a jerk over the pan, then over your head, and if sugar fly out like -feathers it is boiled to the degree called feathered. - -185. _To the “Ball” Degree._--To know when the “ball” has been -acquired, first dip your finger into a basin of cold water, then apply -your finger to the syrup, taking up a little on the tip and dipping it -into the water again; if upon rolling the sugar with the fingers and -thumb you can make it into a small ball, that is what is termed the -“small ball;” when you can make a larger and harder ball, which you -could not bite without its sticking unpleasantly to the teeth, you may -be satisfied that is the “large ball.” - -186. _To the degree called “Crackled.”_--Boil the sugar from the degree -called feathered a little longer; dip a stick or a piece of pipe (or -your finger, if you are used to boiling) into water, then into the -sugar and again into the water. If it crack with the touch it is boiled -to the degree called crackled. - -187. _To the degree called “Caramelled.”_--Boil the sugar still -further, dip a stick or your finger into water, then into the sugar, -and again into the water. If it snap like glass it is of the highest -degree, called caramelled, and must be taken off the fire immediately, -for fear of burning. This sugar is proper to caramel any sort of fruit. - - -188.--To boil Sugar by the Thermometer. - -All the foregoing tests are according to the old style of boiling; but -a boiling-glass can now be had which enables us to boil to a better -degree of accuracy. Thus, to boil to the pearl is to boil to 220 -degrees; the small thread 228 degrees; the large thread 236 degrees; -the blow 240 degrees; the feather 242 degrees; the small ball 244 -degrees; the large ball 250 degrees; the small crack 261 degrees; the -hard crack 281 degrees; the caramel 360 degrees. - - -189.--Barley Sugar. - -Put some sugar in a pan with water and place it on the fire to boil; -when it is at the feather add a little lemon juice and continue boiling -to the caramel; when done add a few drops of essence of lemon. Pour it -on a marble slab previously oiled, cut into strips. When nearly cold -take the strips in your fingers and twist them, and when quite cold put -them into tin boxes and keep them closed down. The reason that barley -sugar is so named is that it was originally made with a decoction of -barley. - - -190.--Barley Sugar Drops. - -These are made in the same manner as the preceding. You pour the sugar -while hot into impressions made in dried icing sugar. - - -191.--Acid Drops. - -Boil 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 pint of water, and a teaspoonful of cream -of tartar to the caramel; add a few drops of essence of lemon, and pour -it on an oiled marble slab or stone; sprinkle on it a tablespoonful -of powdered tartaric acid and work it in. Oil a tin sheet and put the -sugar on it in a warm place, then cut off a small piece and roll it -into a round pipe, cut this into small pieces the size of drops with -a pair of scissors and roll them round under the hand; mix with fine -powdered sugar, sift the drops from it and put them in boxes, to be -used as required. - - -192.--Pine-apple Drops. - -Cut the half of a pine-apple into slices, drop them into a mortar and -pound them; put the pulp into a cloth and extract the juice; take as -much sugar as will be required and boil it to the crack. When the sugar -is at the feather commence to add the pine-apple juice; pour it on -slowly, so that by the time the syrup is at the crack it shall all be -mixed in with the sugar. Finish as for barley sugar drops. - - -193.--Poppy Drops. - -Extract the essence of the poppies (the wild flowers are the best) in -hot water, boil some sugar in a pan--the same way as for barley sugar -drops--and add the decoction of poppies just before the syrup is at -the crack. No essence of lemon should be used, and they need not be -sugared when put into boxes. - - -194.--Ginger Drops. - -Make these after the same manner as barley sugar drops, in boiling -the sugar, and flavour with a few drops of the essence of ginger just -before the syrup is at the crack. - - -195.--Cayenne Drops. - -These are made the same way as barley sugar drops and the poppy and -ginger drops. Flavour a minute before the boiling sugar is at the -crack. To give the cayenne flavour add a few drops of the essence of -capsicum. - - -196.--Ginger Candy. - -Boil some clarified sugar to the ball, and flavour with essence of -ginger, then rub some of the sugar against the sides of the pan with a -spatula until the sugar turns white; pour it into tins which have been -oiled and put into the stove. The sugar should be coloured with some -vegetable yellow whilst boiling. - - -197.--Lemon Candy. - -This is made in the same manner as ginger candy. Colour yellow with a -little saffron, add a few drops of essence of lemon. This is made by -boiling sugar to the feather and ball, and grained by rubbing against -the pan. - - -198.--Peppermint Candy. - -The mode of making this candy is the same as that for making ginger -candy, only add essence of peppermint. - - -199.--Rose Candy. - -Made the same way as ginger candy. Rose candy should be coloured with -cochineal or carmine. - - -200.--Burnt Almonds. - -1 lb. of almonds, 2 lbs. of sugar. Take 2 lbs. of clarified sugar -and boil it to the “ball;” put 1 lb. of Jordan or Valencia almonds, -blanched and dried, into the pan with the sugar; stir them from the -fire, and let them absorb as much sugar as possible. If you want -them well saturated with sugar repeat this until the sweetening is -completed. Flavour with orange-flower water. - - -201.--Cast Sugar Drops. - -Select the best refined sugar with a good grain, pound it and pass -through a coarse hair sieve; sift again in a lawn sieve, to take out -the finest part, as the sugar, when it is too fine, makes the drops -heavy and compact and destroys their brilliancy and shining appearance. -Now put the sugar into a pan and moisten it with any aromatic -spirit you intend to use, using a little water to make it of such a -consistence as to allow of its dropping off the spoon without sticking -to it. Rose water is the best; it should be poured in slowly, stirring -all the time with a wooden spoon. Colour the sugar with prepared -cochineal or any other colour, ground fine and moistened with a little -water; the tint should be light and delicate. Then take a small pan, -made with a lip on the right side, so that when it is held in the left -hand the drops may be detached from the right. Put in the paste and -place the pan in the stove on a ring that just fits it. Take a small -spatula and stir the sugar until it dissolves and makes a slight noise, -but do not let it boil, but remove it from the fire when it is near the -boiling point, then stir it well with the small spatula until of such a -consistence that when dropped it will not spread too much, but retain a -round form. Should it, however, be too thin add a little of the coarse -powdered sugar, which should be reserved for the purpose, and make it -of the thickness required. Take a smooth tin or copper plate and let -the paste drop on it from the lip of the pan at regular intervals. You -hold the pan in the left hand and with a piece of straight wire in the -right hand you separate the drop of sugar from the lip of the pan, -letting it fall on the tin. In the course of an hour and a half or two -hours the drops may be removed with a thin knife. If no copper plates -are at hand a piece of stout cartridge paper will do. Damp the back of -the paper with a sponge when you wish to remove the drops. - - -202.--Rose Drops. - -These are made as in the preceding case. Flavour with essence of rose -and colour with cochineal. - - -203.--Orange-flower Drops. - -Flavour with orange-flower water or a little of the essence of neroli. - - -204.--Chocolate Drops. - -2 ozs. of chocolate, 2 lbs. of sugar. The chocolate must be scraped to -a powder and then made into a paste with cold water, finishing as for -cast sugar drops. - - -205.--Coffee Drops. - -2 ozs. of coffee, 2 lbs. of sugar. Make a decoction of coffee in the -regular manner and add it to your sugar to make the paste or syrup. -Finish in the same way as for cast sugar drops. - - -206.--Barberry Drops. - -6 ozs. of barberries, 1½ lb. of sugar. Press the juice out of the -barberries and mix it into the pounded sugar. Should there not be -sufficient juice add a little clear water. Make no more paste than you -can actually use, as the second time it is heated it becomes greasy and -difficult to drop. - - -207.--Peppermint Drops. - -Moisten the sugar, which should be white and of the finest quality, -with peppermint water, or flavour it with the essence of peppermint and -moisten it with a little clear water. See that your utensils are very -clean. - - -208.--Pine-apple Drops. - -Take the pine-apple and rub the rind on a piece of rough sugar. The -sugar thus impregnated you scrape off for use directly. Pound the -pine-apple, and pass the pulp or juice through a fine hair sieve. Add -the sugar just scraped off and as much more as you think it requires to -make it sweet. Make it into a paste with clear water. Every precaution -must be used, as it soon greases. No more should be made than you -actually want for immediate use. - - -209.--Vanilla Drops. - -2 pods of vanilla, 1 lb. of pounded sugar. Use the pods of vanilla in -preference to the essence; the latter is apt to grease the paste. Cut -the vanilla up very fine, put it in a mortar, and pound it well along -with a portion of your sugar. When sufficiently smooth, sift it through -a fine sieve. Finish as for the rest. - - -210.--Ginger Drops. - -Take as much ginger as you wish to use, pound, and sift it through a -fine lawn sieve; add it to as much sugar as you desire to flavour, and -mix it with clear water. Some use the ginger sold at the shops already -powdered; some, again, the essence of ginger, colouring the paste with -saffron. - - -211.--Lemon Drops. - -Rub off the yellow rind of some lemons on a piece of rough sugar; -scrape it off, and mix it into your paste. Add sufficient to your sugar -to give it a good flavour, and colour it a light yellow with saffron. -Moisten with clear water, and mix as the rest. - - -212.--Orange Drops. - -These are made the same as lemon drops. - - -213.--Pear Drops. - -Made the same as above, and flavoured with the essence of jargonel pear. - - -214.--Lavender, Violet, Musk, and Millefleur Drops. - -These are all made the same way as the above, being flavoured with the -essences that give them their names. - - -215.--Pink Burnt Almonds. - -Put 1 pint of clarified sugar in a round-bottomed pan on a clear fire, -boil it to the degree called blown, mix in as much prepared cochineal -as will make it a good colour, boil it again to the degree called -blown, throw in the brown burnt almonds free from small; take the pan -off the fire and stir the almonds well about in the sugar with the -spatter until it is all upon them, which is very easily done if you are -careful. You may repeat this two or three times, which will make the -almonds very handsome. - - -216.--Philadelphia Caramels. - -Take 10 lbs. of sugar, 2 quarts of rich cream, 1½ lb. of glucose, 1 -lb. of fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 1 lb. of cocoa -paste, and ¼ of a lb. of white wax of paraffin. Boil these to the -“crack,” pour upon a greased marble slab, between iron bars, and let it -remain until cold, then cut it into small cubes and fold in wax-paper. - - -217.--Boston Chips. - -These are made of sugar boiled to the hard crack, flavoured and tinted -to suit your fancy; it is then poured upon a greased marble slab. As -soon as it becomes sufficiently cold the edges are turned in and the -batch is folded in a mass, placed upon the candy hook and pulled; it -is then run through a machine the iron rollers of which are set very -closely together, so that the candy comes through as thin as a wafer; -it is then cut into strips to suit, or it may be wound around an oiled -round stick and then slipped off, making a curl. Two or more colours -may be joined together before it is run through the machine, thus -making a parti-coloured ribbon. - - -218.--Engagement Favours. - -Break up 1 lb. of loaf sugar into small particles, let it dissolve in -a pan with ½ pint of water and 2 spoonfuls of lemon-juice; skim and -boil to the ball, add pieces of lemon peel tied together with a string, -boil until a sample is brittle; take out the lemon peel, pour out the -sugar on an oiled slab, taking care to distribute it so that the whole -mass cools at the same time. It is pulled, manipulated, and cut in -the ordinary way. A small part of the sugar coloured red and boiled -separately may be used to variegate the sweets, and should be worked in -just before cutting. - - -219.--Almond Hardbake. - -Oil a square or round tin with low edges, split some almonds in halves -and place them in rows over the bottom with the split side downward -until the surface is covered. Boil some raw sugar to the crack, pour it -over them so as to cover the whole with a thin sheet of sugar. - -Cocoanut cut in thin slices, currants, and other similar candies are -made in the same way, except that the sugar is ground before it is -poured over. - - -220.--To make Gum Paste. - -Put any quantity of picked gum dragon into an upright earthen jar, -cover it over with cold water and let it stand two or three days. Have -ready some of the very finest icing sugar, take the gum into a coarse -piece of canvas and let another person assist in twisting it round -until the whole has passed through. Beat it well up in the mortar to -make it tough and white, then add sugar by degrees, still beating it -with the pestle. When it is stiff take it out and keep it in an earthen -jar for use. When it is worked into ornaments it will require a little -starch-powder to smooth and make it proper for use. If you want to -colour any part of it, use vegetable colouring. - - -221.--To spin a Silver Web. - -Take 1 pint of clarified sugar and 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, boil -it in a small pan to the degree called caramelled; the moment the sugar -is ready take it off and put the bottom of the pan in cold water. As -soon as the water is warmed take the pan out. This precaution will -keep the sugar from discolouring. As this sugar is to represent silver -you must be particularly careful not to boil it too high. Have ready a -crocanth mould neatly oiled with sweet oil, then take a teaspoon and -dip the shank of it into the sugar on one side of the pan, take up a -little sugar and throw the spoon backwards and forwards in the mould, -leaving as fine a thread as possible. Continue to do so until the mould -is quite full. You must observe that there be no blotches and that -the threads be as fine as hair; you may then take it out and cover it -over a custard or any other sweet, and may, if you please, raise it by -spinning light threads of sugar on the top. - - -222.--To spin a Gold Web. - -Proceed with a gold web exactly the same as with the silver web, only -boil the sugar a moment longer. - - -223.--A Spun Sugar Pyramid. - -Provide four or five round moulds, the one larger than the other, oil -them neatly, then boil your sugar as for silver web, only let it remain -on the fire one minute longer, then take up sugar with the shank of the -spoon and spin it as near the side of the mould as possible, but let no -blotches appear; do this to the four moulds. As soon as cold take them -out and fix one above another with hot sugar, then spin long lengths -of sugar round until they form a complete pyramid. You may spin long -threads of sugar to represent a feather, and place them on the top, or -you may place a sprig of myrtle on the top and spin long lengths of -sugar round it. The way to do it is to take the shank of your spoon, -dip it into the cool sugar at the side of the pan, take hold of a bit -of the sugar with your finger and thumb and pull it out to any length -and fineness you please. - - -224.--To spin a Gold Sugar Crocanth. - -Boil your sugar a minute longer than for the silver web, using the -same precaution as before. Have ready your mould neatly oiled, then -take a little sugar on the shank of your spoon, spin it quite close -to the side of your mould (be careful you make no blotches), spin all -round, and strengthen the sugar as much as you can. There must be no -holes or blotches, but an even regular sugar, all parts as near alike -as possible. When the sugar is perfectly cold turn it out carefully, -and set it over a custard or any other sweet. You may use it plain or -ornament it with gum paste, as you think proper. - - -225.--To spin a Gold Cup. - -Provide a copper mould like a cup. It must be made in three parts, and -must be perfectly smooth within; oil each neatly, and spin sugar in -each, agreeable to the directions for the crocanth. If two persons can -spin at the same time it will be much better. When the three moulds -are perfectly covered with sugar, and cold, take each out and put them -together in a proper manner with hot sugar. You may ornament the cup -with gum paste, which will make it very beautiful. - -NOTE.--In boiling sugar to spin, great care must be taken to have a -clear fire, and only to boil a small quantity at a time in a small -brass pan. If you have two or three sugars to spin you must use two or -three pans. One person may be attending to the boiling while another -is spinning. A teaspoonful of lemon juice must be put to a pint of -clarified sugar. If the sugar is likely to boil over the top of the pan -drop one drop of sweet oil from your finger into the sugar, which will -stop it immediately. - - -226.--A Spun Sugar Bee-hive. - -Mould twenty or thirty bees in gum paste, as near the colour and shape -as possible, make a hole with a pin on each side of the mouth and let -them dry; make some of the wings extend as if flying. Provide a large -round crocanth mould as near the shape of a bee-hive as possible, then -boil the sugar as formerly instructed. Spin the sugar hot close to -the inside of the mould. It must be regularly spun and very strong, -the threads very fine, and no blotches. When it is so, let it stand -until quite cold, then turn it out of the mould on to a large dish and -ornament as under. - - -227.--To Ornament a Bee-hive. - -Before you begin to boil the sugar take as many borders out of your gum -paste moulds as will go round the bottom; also take out leaves for the -top; run a husk round the sides to represent the matting of the hive, -lay your borders and leaves on a marble slab, with a cloth over them -to keep them moist. You may also twist a length of gum paste like a -wreath and make it into a large ring; this must be dried; then fix on -the ornaments with a little hot sugar and set the ring upright on the -top. You may then spin long lengths of sugar very fine on to a tin -plate. Take the bees and fix them with hot sugar on the top and sides -of the hive; break the lengths of sugar in short pieces and fix them in -the holes made in the bees. You may also form three entrances into the -hive with the gum paste husk. - - - - -XI. COLOURING SUGAR. - - -228.--To prepare Sugar for Colouring. - -Take good loaf sugar, get it ground well, put it through a hair sieve; -what remains in the hair sieve put into a fine wire sieve and sift it, -and the sugar which comes through the wire sieve will be rough sugar -proper for colouring. - - -229.--To colour Sugar. - -Divide the sugar into as many parts as you intend to colour, put each -into a sheet of paper, then prepare your colours. Take a round-bottomed -pan and put it on a warm stove, pour in your lot of sugar, stir it -about with a dry whisk until the sugar is warm, add the colour, stir it -well with the whisk to make the sugar all of that colour, then stir it -about till the sugar is nearly dry, when you may spread it about on the -sheet of paper. You may proceed in this manner with all the colours. -The first colour used should be yellow, and the next green, which may -be coloured in the yellow pan and with the same whisk. You must then -wash both, and colour red, and after that orange. When the sugar is -cold, sift it to take out any coupled, then bottle it separately. It -will be found to be a useful article to ornament rout biscuits, creams, -&c. - - -230.--Blue Colouring. - -Take a fig of the best indigo, dip one side in warm water and rub it -on a marble slab until you gain the strength you want; or if you wish -for a quantity, put a fig into a small cup, drop a tablespoonful of -water upon it, and let it stand half an hour; then pour off the water -at the top, and you will have a fine smooth colour. - - -231.--Carmine Colouring. - -Take carmine, No. 24 or 40, 1 dr., liquor potassæ 2½ drs., water 2 -ozs., glycerine sufficient to make 4 ozs. Rub the carmine to a paste -with liquor potassæ and add the water and glycerine. This is a splendid -red, and works well with liquor acids. - - -232.--Green Colouring. - -Take some strong saffron colour and a little of the fine melted blue; -mix them well together, which will make a green colour. If you want a -pale green, use more yellow; if a dark green, use more blue. - -233. _Another Way._--Take a quantity of spinach, pick the leaves from -the stalks, put them very tight down in a small pan, add a small -quantity of water, cover them closely up, and set the pan on a warm -stove for two hours; then turn the leaves into a coarse canvas, and let -two persons twist it round until all the liquor is squeezed out; set it -on a clear fire in a small pan, and let it boil one minute. When cold, -bottle and cork it tight. - -NOTE.--The vegetable colouring bought at shops which manufacture it -specially for confectioners is the safest, cheapest, and best. - - -234.--Orange Colouring. - -Take one tablespoonful of cochineal colour and the same quantity of the -saffron liquor; mix them together and you will have an orange colour. -If it be too red, add a little more yellow; if it be too yellow, add a -little more red. - - -235.--Red Colouring. - -Beat 1 oz. of cochineal fine in a mortar, to which put 1½ pint of soft -water and ½ oz. of cream of tartar; simmer them in a pan for half an -hour over a slow fire. Take it off, and throw in ½ oz. of roach alum -to strike the colour. You may ascertain the strength by dipping in a -piece of writing paper. If not sufficiently strong, simmer it again for -a short time. When nearly cold, strain it through a strong piece of -canvas, and before you bottle it add 2 ozs. of double refined sugar. - - -236.--Yellow Colouring. - -Put the best saffron down tightly in a small jar, pour a little boiling -water over it, cover it closely up, and set it in a warm place for half -an hour, turning it two or three times in the water; then strain and -bottle it for use. - - - - -XII. LOZENGES. - - -Lozenges are made of loaf sugar finely ground, gum arabic dissolved in -water, also gum dragon. They are mixed together into a paste, cut round -or oval with cutters, and dried. To make the best sort of lozenges, -1 lb. of gum arabic should be dissolved in 1 pint of water; but the -proportion of gum and water in general use is 2½ lbs. of gum arabic in -1 quart and ½ pint of water, and 1 oz. of gum dragon in ½ pint of water. - - -237.--Peppermint Lozenges. - -Take some finely powdered loaf sugar, put it on a marble slab, make a -bay in the centre, pour in some dissolved gum, and mix into a paste, -flavour with the essence of peppermint, roll the paste on the marble -slab until it is about an eighth of an inch thick. Use starch-powder -to dust it with; this keeps it from sticking. Dust the surface with a -little starch-powder and sugar, and rub it over with the palm of your -hand. Cut out the lozenges and place them on wooden trays, and place -them in the stove to dry. All lozenges are finished in the same way. - - -238.--Rose Lozenges. - -Make the paste the same way as the preceding, and use essence of roses -to flavour with; colour the paste with cochineal. - - -239.--Ginger Lozenges. - -1 oz. of powdered ginger, 1 lb. of powdered sugar. Mix to a paste with -dissolved gum; colour with yellow. - - -240.--Transparent Mint Lozenges. - -These are made with the coarser grains of powdered loaf sugar. Pass the -sugar through a hair sieve, then sift it through a fine sieve to take -away the powder. Flavour with peppermint. Finish as the others. - - -241.--Cinnamon Lozenges. - -Mix as the others; flavour with cinnamon in powder, adding a few drops -of essential oil. Colour with coffee colour. - - -242.--Clove Lozenges. - -1 oz. of cloves powdered and 2½ lbs. of sugar. Mix, and finish as for -the others. - - -243.--Nutmeg Lozenges. - -¼ oz. of oil of nutmeg, 2 lbs. of sugar. Mix as instructions for the -others. - - -244.--Lavender Lozenges. - -Mix as for others; flavour with English oil of lavender, and colour -with a little cochineal and blue mixed. - - -245.--Vanilla Lozenges. - -Use essence of vanilla or the stick pounded with sugar and sifted -through a fine hair sieve. - - -246.--Brilliants. - -Take either of the pastes for lozenges and cut into small fancy devices -or ornaments. - - - - -XIII. ICE CREAMS. - - -The genuine recipe for making ice creams will be found below. The first -operation is the thorough scalding of the cream, sugar, and eggs: this -gives it greater body and richness. - - -247.--Vanilla Ice Cream. - -Put into a perfectly bright and clean copper basin 2 lbs. of sugar, 4 -eggs, 1 large fine bean of vanilla split and cut into small pieces, -stir all well together with a large wire whisk, then add 4 quarts of -rich cream, place it upon the fire and stir well and constantly until -it is about to boil; then immediately remove it from the fire and -strain it through a hair sieve into an earthen tureen or crock; let it -stand till cool, pour it into your freezing-can already imbedded in -broken ice and rock-salt, cover and turn the crank slowly and steadily -until it can be turned no longer, open the can and remove the dasher, -scrape the hardened cream from the sides with a long-handled spatula, -and beat and work the cream until smooth. Close the can, draw off the -water, and repack with fresh ice and salt and let it rest for an hour -or two to harden and ripen. - -Ice cream is often made from fresh unscalded cream beaten vigorously -during the entire freezing process, this causes it to swell and -increase in bulk from a fourth to a third, but what is gained in -quantity is lost in quality, as it becomes very light and snowy in -texture, having no body: it is simply a frozen froth. Ice cream should -be firm, smooth, and satiny, yet melting on the tongue like the best -quality of gilt-edged butter. - -In flavouring ice creams with fruit juices or the pulp thereof, the -latter must never be cooked or scalded with the cream under any -circumstances; they must be added, mixed, and beaten into the cream -after it is frozen. - -The process given above for vanilla ice cream is the same for all cream -ices. - - -248.--Bisque or Biscuit Glace. - -Make a rich and highly flavoured vanilla ice cream and add for each -quart ¼ of a lb. of almond macaroons dried crisp and reduced to a -powder in a stone mortar. After the cream is frozen, add and work into -it the macaroon powder, and finish as above directed for vanilla ice -cream. - - -249.--Crushed Strawberry Ice Cream. - -As for bisque, make a rich vanilla ice cream, and when it is well -frozen add to it 1 pint of strawberries to each quart of cream. The -berries must be full ripe and be crushed to a pulp with some fine sugar -before adding and working them into the cream. Finish as for vanilla. - - -250.--Hokey Pokey. - -This article is not an ice cream proper, but a species of frozen -custard made of milk, eggs, sugar, gelatine, and flavouring. Take 2 -ozs. of gelatine, dissolve in ½ pint of milk or water, then to 4 quarts -of milk and 8 eggs slightly beaten add 1½ lb. of sugar and the thin -yellow rind of 2 lemons, and a pinch of salt; put the ingredients into -a clean, bright basin, place on a moderate fire, and stir constantly -till it begins to thicken, then remove quickly, and pour it into an -earthen pan and continue to stir it till nearly cold, then add and stir -in the dissolved gelatine; pour all into your freezer and freeze as -for other ices. When frozen it may be put in small boxes about three -inches long by two inches wide, or it may be wrapped in wax paper and -kept ready for sale in an ice cave. The office of the gelatine is to -solidify the compound and assist its “keeping” qualities. - - -251.--Cocoanut Ice. - -Take grated white meat of 3 fine cocoanuts and the milk they have -contained, to which add 3 quarts of filtered water; place on the fire -and boil for ten minutes, then pour it into an earthen or stoneware -crock, cover, and let it infuse till nearly cold, then strain and -press off the liquid with a fine sieve; to this liquid add 1¼ lb. of -pulverised sugar and the whites of 3 eggs; mix all thoroughly well -together and pour it into the freezer already imbedded in ice and salt. -Freeze and finish as other ices. - - - - -XIV. PRESERVING FRUITS. - - -The preserving of fruits has always been considered a principal branch -of confectionery, and one which requires no small degree of attention -and diligence. As you are instructed in the boiling of sugars in its -several degrees, named in each recipe, should it be boiled lower the -fruit will lose its colour, turn windy, and spoil; if it is boiled -higher it will rock and cannot be got out of the jars. Another -important point is to preserve such fruit only as is quite fresh -picked, the flavour, which is a very essential consideration, being -lost if the fruit be stale. Cleanliness in this branch, as in every -other, must not be neglected. Preserving pans, &c., must resemble a -looking-glass as much as possible. Fruits well preserved will keep in -almost any place. It is better, however, to keep them neither in too -dry nor in too damp a place. The jars must be well protected from air -by covering each with writing-paper dipped in brandy, covered and tied -over with wet bladder. - -NOTE.--A wood skimmer must be made of ash or elm about 4 inches long, -3 inches broad, and 1 inch thick. There is a handle fixed on one side, -which take hold of and lay the wood gently on the fruit where the scum -is, then take it off and scrape off the scum, and so on until all is -taken off. - - -252.--Large Strawberries. - -Procure the largest Carolina or Hanoverian strawberries, pack two -layers with care in a flat-bottomed preserving pan, then pour over -them 1 pint of currant juice, cover them with smooth clarified sugar, -and over it a sheet of paper, set them on a warm part of the stove -until the syrup is new-milk warm, then take them off; next morning -take them out one at a time with an egg-spoon and lay them on a fine -splinter sieve set over a pan to drain; add to the syrup a little -clarified sugar and boil it to the degree called “pearled,” put in the -fruit with care and simmer them round; as soon as the syrup is off the -degree called pearled, take them from the stove, skim, and put them -with great care into a flat pudding pot, cover them up for two days, -then lay them on a splinter sieve to drain, and add to the syrup 1 or 2 -pints of clarified sugar as occasion may require, with the proportion -of red currant juice, boil it to the degree called pearled, and put -in your fruit with great care and simmer them very gently round the -sides of the pan; as soon as the syrup is off the degree called pearled -skim them and put them into jars, filling them within half an inch of -the top. When cold cover them with writing-paper dipped in brandy and -bladder them over. - - -253.--Strawberry Jam. - -Take any quantity of scarlet strawberries, pass them through a fine -splinter sieve, add to them 1 or 2 pints of red currant juice, -according to the quantity of strawberries, put the same weight of -sifted loaf sugar as fruit, boil them over a bright fire, keep stirring -all the time with a spatter, and with it make a figure of eight in the -pan to prevent the jam taking hold of the bottom; when it has boiled -ten minutes take it off and take a little jam out with a scraper, -which drop upon a plate; if it retains the mark of the scraper it is -of a proper consistency and ready to put into jars, but should it run -thin on the plate it must be boiled again until of the substance above -named. It is necessary here to observe that all sorts of red fruit -should be kept as short a time as possible on the fire, and for that -reason let your fires be perfectly bright before you use them. - - -254.--Raspberry Jelly. - -Take 4 quarts of clear raspberry juice, add to it 8 pounds of sifted -lump sugar, set it on a clear fire in your preserving pan, stir it with -the spatter to keep it from burning; let it rise, then take it from -the fire, skim it, set it on the fire again, and let it rise three -or four times, skimming it each time. If, on taking out the skimmer, -small flakes hang from it, it is of a proper consistency and may be put -into jars. When cold cover it with writing-paper dipped in brandy, and -bladder them over. - - -255.--Black Currant Jelly. - -Pick black currants from the stalks as well and in as short a time as -you can, then put them into strong earthen jars or stew pots, cover -them well over and set them in a slow oven for one night; next morning -put them into the jelly-bag, and as soon as drained, which will be in -three or four hours, measure the juice. To each pint of juice take 1 -lb. 4 ozs. of sifted loaf sugar, boil and skim it as before. You may if -you think proper clarify the sugar, but this is a much easier way. - - -256.--Red Currant Jam. - -Pick red currants until you have 7 lbs., then force the whole of them -through a splinter sieve, to which add 7 lbs. of sifted lump sugar; -boil this very well over a brisk fire for twenty minutes, stirring -it all the time with the spatter. This is very useful for tartlets, -cheaper than rasps, and a much better colour. Put it into jars, cover -them with paper dipped in brandy and bladder them over. - - -257.--Apple Jelly. - -Take codlin apples, cut them very thin across, fill your preserving -pan nearly full, cover them with soft water and then with a sheet -of paper, set them on a slow fire, let them simmer slowly for a -considerable time to extract the jelly from the apple. They must not on -any account be stirred about in the pan. When the virtue appears to be -quite extracted from them pour them into a jelly-bag. Cut more apples -as before, about half the quantity, put them into the pan, and pour -over them the extract from the first apples, simmer them very slowly as -before. When the essence is all extracted put them into a jelly-bag. -This jelly is used in the putting up of all preserved fruits. - - -258.--Gooseberry Jam. - -Take 7 lbs. of clean, picked, dry gooseberries, put them into your -preserving pan with 1 pint of water and 7 lbs. of sifted loaf sugar. -Boil over a clear fire from twenty minutes to half an hour; when they -are boiled to the consistency required take them off, put them into -jars and secure them from the air as the others. - - -259.--Orange Marmalade. - -Take 12 Seville and 12 China oranges, pare the outer skin off as thin -as you can, lay it in soft water and freshen it every two hours to take -out the bitterness, then pull off the white skin from the pared oranges -and throw it away; cut them across, squeeze the juice from them, and -set them on the fire in the preserving pan with plenty of soft water, -boil them until so soft as to pulp through a hair sieve. Then boil the -outer skin equally soft. If it will not go through, beat it well in a -mortar and then put it through; add to it the other pulp and the juice. -Weigh it, and to each pound allow 1 lb. 2 ozs. of sifted loaf sugar. -Boil this well together, stirring it all the time, until it will retain -the mark of the scraper, when it will be ready to put into jars, which -must be secured from air as before. - - - - -XV. CHOCOLATE. - - -260.--General Directions for Making Chocolate. - -Provide yourself with an iron pestle and mortar, also a stone slab of -a very fine grain about two feet square, and a rolling-pin of hard -stone or iron. The stone must have an opening beneath in which to place -a pot of burning charcoal to heat it. Warm the mortar and pestle by -placing them on a stove, or charcoal may be used, until they are so hot -that you can scarcely bear your hand against them. Wipe the mortar out -clean, and put any convenient quantity of prepared nuts in it, which -pound until they are reduced to an oily paste into which the pestle -will sink with its own weight. Add fine powdered sugar to the chocolate -paste. After it has been well pounded, the sugar must be in proportion -of 3 lbs. to 4 lbs. of prepared cocoa. Continue to pound it until -completely mixed; then put it in a pan and place it in the stove to -keep warm. Take a portion of it and roll or grind it well on the stone -slab with the roller, both being previously heated like the mortar -until it is reduced to a smooth impalpable paste, which will melt in -the mouth like butter when this is accomplished. Put it in another pan -and keep it warm until the whole is similarly disposed of; then place -it again on the stove, which must not be quite so warm as previously. -Work it over again, and divide it into pieces of two, four, eight, or -sixteen ounces each, which you put in tin mould. Give it a shake, and -the chocolate will become flat. When cold, it will easily turn out. - - -261.--Chocolate Harlequin Pistachios. - -In making harlequin pistachios, you warm some of the sweet chocolate by -pounding it in a hot mortar. After it has been prepared in this manner, -take some of it and wrap it round a blanched pistachio nut; roll it in -the hand to give it the form of an olive, and throw it into nonpareils -of mixed colours, so that it may be variously coloured, à la harlequin. -Proceed with the remaining pistachio nuts after the same fashion, -dropping them into the nonpareils so that the comfits will adhere to -the pistachios. Fold them in coloured or fancy papers, with mottoes. -The ends are generally fringed. - - -262.--Chocolate Drops with Nonpareils. - -Prepare some warm chocolate as in the preceding recipe. When the -chocolate has been well pounded and is a smooth impalpable paste, make -it into balls the size of a small marble by rolling in the hand. Place -them on square sheets of paper about one inch apart; having filled the -sheet, take it by the corners and lift it up and down, letting it touch -the table each time: this will flatten them. Completely cover their -surfaces with white nonpareils, gently shaking off the surplus ones. -After the drops are cold, they can be very easily removed from the -paper. The drops should be about the size of a sixpence. - - -263.--Chocolate in Moulds. - -It is usual now amongst confectioners to use the English unsweetened -chocolate, as it saves much time and trouble, and is equally good. To -form it into shapes you must have two kinds of moulds, made either of -thick tin or copper tinned inside; the one sort is impressed with a -device or figure, and with a narrow edge; the other is flat or nearly -so, and the same size as the previous mould, with a shallow device -in the centre. You put a piece of prepared chocolate into the first -mould, and then cover it with the flat one; upon pressing it down the -chocolate receives the form of both devices. After it is cold it can be -easily taken out. It should have a shining appearance. - - - - -_Now Ready, uniform with the present Work, 124 pp., price 2s._ - - -THE - -PASTRYCOOK AND CONFECTIONER’S GUIDE - -For Hotels, Restaurants, and the Trade in General. Adapted also for -Family Use. - -BY ROBERT WELLS, - -AUTHOR OF THE “BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER’S AND SUGAR-BOILER’S ASSISTANT.” - -_CONTAINING A LARGE VARIETY OF MODERN AND USEFUL RECIPES._ - - -LONDON: CROSBY LOCKWOOD & SON, 7, STATIONERS’ HALL COURT. - - - - -INDEX. - - - Abernethy Biscuits, 39 - ---- As made in London, 40 - ---- Usual way of making, 40 - Acid Drops, 76 - Adulteration with Alum, Professor Vaughan on, 13 - Albert Cakes, 31, 69 - Almonds, Rock, 52 - Almond Fruit Biscuits, 52 - ---- Hardbake, 82 - ---- Sponge Biscuits, 56 - Alum in Bread, 13 - ---- Liebig on Action of, 13 - ---- Professor Vaughan on, 13 - American Genoa Cake, 66 - Apple Jelly, 97 - Arrowroot Biscuits, 42 - Art of Bread-making, Slow Progress in, 1 - - - Baking, General Remarks on, 10 - Balloon or Prussian Cakes, 29 - Balmoral Cakes, 29 - Barberry Drops, 79 - Barley Sugar, 75 - ---- Drops, 76 - Bath Buns, 27 - ---- Oliver Biscuits, 43 - Bee-hive, to Ornament a, 85 - ---- in Spun Sugar, 85 - Biscuits, Fancy, Recipes for, 45 - ---- Hard, Recipes for, 38 - Bisque or Biscuit Glace, 93 - Blue Colouring for Sugar, 87 - Boiling Sugar to the degree called “Pearled”, 74 - ---- to the degree called “Blown”, 74 - ---- to the degree called “Feathered”, 74 - ---- to the degree called “Ball”, 74 - ---- to the degree called “Crackled”, 75 - ---- to the degree called “Caramelled”, 75 - ---- by the Thermometer, 75 - Boston Chips, 82 - ---- Lemon Crackers, 41 - Brandy Snaps, 35, 69 - Bread, Tea Cakes, Buns, &c., Recipes for, 17 - ---- Good, Essentials of, 10 - Bread-making by the Old Method, 17 - ---- Modern way of, 18 - ---- Process of, 5 - ---- Scotch style of, 19 - Bride Cakes, 62 - ---- Almond Icing for, 63 - ---- Icing Sugar for, 63 - Brilliants, 91 - Bristol Cake, 67 - Brown Bread compared with White, 7 - Buns, Recipes for, 27, 28, 29, 30 - Burnt Almonds, 78, 81 - Butter for Puff Paste, 57 - Butter for Pastry and Cakes, 14 - - - Cakes made with Butter, Directions for Mixing, 60 - ---- London way of Mixing, 60 - Captains’ Biscuits, 39 - ---- Thick, 39 - Carmine Colouring for Sugar, 88 - Cast Sugar Drops, 78 - Cayenne Drops, 77 - Chelsea Buns, 28 - Chemistry as applied to Bread-making, 2, 8 - Chocolate, General Directions for Making, 99 - ---- Drops, 79 - Chocolate Drops with Nonpareils, 100 - ---- Harlequin Pistachios, 100 - ---- in Moulds, 100 - Cinnamon Buns, 30 - ---- Lozenges, 91 - Citron Cake, 61 - Clarifying Sugar, 73 - Clove Lozenges, 91 - Coarse Bread, 22 - Cocoanut Cakes, 31 - ---- Ice, 94 - Coffee Biscuits, 42 - ---- Drops, 79 - Colouring Sugar, 87 - Confections in Sugar Boiling, 73 - Cracknel Biscuits, 48 - Crimp or Honeycomb Biscuits, 49 - Crumpets, 26 - Currant Fruit Biscuits, 47 - ---- Jam, Red, 97 - ---- Jelly, Black, 97 - ---- or Milk Scones, 68 - Custard, 59 - ---- Common, 59 - - - Diet Bread, 21 - Digestive Biscuits, 41, 42, 45 - Drop Biscuits, Common, 54 - Dundee Cake, 65 - - - Eccles Cake, 58 - Edinburgh Biscuits, 43 - Engagement Favours, 82 - Essentials of good Bread-making, 10 - Exhibition Nuts, 47 - - - Fermentation, 4 - Flour, Judging between Good and Bad, 13 - Flour, Patent, 31 - Fruit Biscuits, 54 - Fruit Cakes, Bride Cakes, &c., Recipes for, 60 - ---- Cake, Common, 61 - Fun Nuts, 34 - - - Genoa Biscuits, 47 - ---- Cake, 64 - ---- ---- American, 66 - Germ Flour Bread, 23 - German Buns, 30 - German Wafers, 49 - ---- Yeast, 11 - Ginger Cakes, 33 - ---- Candy, 77 - Ginger Drops, 77, 80 - ---- Lozenges, 91 - Gingerbread, Queen’s, 32 - ---- German, 32 - ---- Grantham or White, 34 - ---- Halfpenny Squares, 35 - ---- Light, 34 - ---- Scarborough (for wholesale purposes), 33 - ---- Spiced, 32 - Gold Cake, 65 - ---- Cup, 84 - ---- Sugar Crocanth, 84 - ---- Web, 83 - Gooseberry Jam, 98 - Graham, Professor, on Brown Bread, 8 - Green Colouring for Sugar, 88 - Gum Paste, 83 - - - Halfpenny Lunch Cake, 70 - ---- Queen Cake, 70 - ---- Scotch Cakes, 69 - ---- Sponges, 70 - Hardbake, Almond, 82 - Hermit Biscuits, 50 - Hokey Pokey, 93 - Home-made Bread, 17 - Honeycomb Biscuits, 49 - Hot-cross Buns, 28 - Hunting Nuts, 36 - - - Ice Creams, 92 - Icing Sugar, 63 - Imperial or Lemon Biscuits, 45 - - - Jago, Professor, on Brown Bread, 7 - Jubilee Buns, 30 - ---- Cakes, 67 - Judges’ Biscuits, 54 - Jumbles or Brandy Snaps, 35, 69 - - - Kent Biscuits, 45 - - - Lafayette Cakes, 66 - Laughing or Fun Nuts, 34 - Lavender Drops, 81 - ---- Lozenges, 91 - Lemon Biscuits, 45 - ---- Cake, 67 - ---- Candy, 77 - ---- Drops, 80 - Liebig on Action of Alum in Bread, 13 - ---- on Process of Bread-making, 5 - London Buns, 30 - Lord Mayor’s Biscuits, 54 - Lozenges, Recipes for, 90 - Lunch Cake, 70 - Luncheon Biscuits, 41 - - - Macaroons, common, 50 - ---- French, 51 - ---- Italian, 50 - Machine Biscuits, 43 - ---- made Biscuits, 38 - Madeira Cakes, 64 - ---- Cake (Scotch Mixture), 64 - Making Bread, Liebig on, 13 - ---- Modern Way of, 18 - ---- Scotch Style of, 19 - Marmalade, 98 - Marseillaise Biscuits, 47 - Meringues, 53 - Milk Scones, 68 - Millefleur Drops, 81 - Mixing Cakes, London way of, 60, 61 - Muffins, 25 - Musk Drops, 81 - Mystery Plum Cake, 66 - - - Naples Biscuits, 56 - Nelson Cake, 58 - Nonpareil Biscuits, 69 - Nursery Biscuits, 44 - Nutmeg Lozenges, 91 - - - Oatmeal Cake, 27 - Orange Colouring for Sugar, 88 - ---- Drops, 81 - Orange Marmalade, 98 - Orange-flower Drops, 79 - - - Palais-Royal Biscuits, 55 - Parisian Barm, 11 - Parking Cake, 36 - Parkings, 36 - Paste for Baked Custard, 58 - ---- Small Raised Pies, 58 - ---- Tarts, 58 - Pastry, Custard, &c., Recipes for, 57 - Pear Drops, 81 - Penny Albert Cake, Large Square, 69 - ---- Queen Cakes, 31 - ---- Rice Cakes, 31 - Peppermint Candy, 77 - Peppermint Drops, 80 - ---- Lozenges, 90 - Peruvian Biscuits, 47 - Philadelphia Caramels, 81 - Pic-Nics, 41 - ---- Common, 41 - Pineapple Drops, 76, 80 - Pink Burnt Almonds, 81 - Plum Cake (as made for best shops in Edinburgh), 64 - Plum Cake at 6d. per lb. (as sold by Grocers), 65 - ---- at 3d. per lb. (Mystery), 66 - ---- at 4d. per lb., 66 - Polkas or Halfpenny Sponges, 70 - Pond Cake, 65 - Poppy Drops, 76 - Pound Cakes, 61, 62 - Premium Drops, 49 - Preserving Fruits, 95 - Princess Biscuits, 51 - Prussian Cakes, 29 - Puff Paste, 57 - - - Queen Cakes, 31, 70 - Queen’s Bread, 24 - ---- Drops, 48 - - - Raspberry Jelly, 97 - Ratafias, 51 - Red Colouring for Sugar, 89 - Rice Biscuits, 47, 55 - ---- Cake (Scotch Mixture), 64 - ---- Cakes, 31 - Rock Almonds, Brown, 52 - ---- Pink, 52 - ---- White, 52 - Rose Candy, 77 - ---- Drops, 79 - ---- Lozenges, 90 - Rusks, 51 - Rye Bread, 22 - - - Saffron Buns, 29 - Sally Luns, 24 - Savoy Biscuits, 54 - Scarborough Water Cakes, 56 - Scones, 68 - ---- Currant or Milk, 68 - Scotch Cakes, 69 - Seed Cakes, 61, 62 - Shell Biscuits, 43 - Ship Biscuits, 38 - Shortbread, English, 37 - ---- French, 37 - ---- Scotch, 36 - Shrewsbury Biscuits, 46 - Silver Cake, 65 - Silver Web, 83 - Snowdrop Biscuits, 47 - Soda Biscuits, 40, 44 - ---- Cakes, 68 - Spice Nuts, 34 - Sponge Biscuits, 56 - Spun Sugar Bee-hive, 85 - ---- Pyramid, 84 - Strawberry Ice Cream, 93 - ---- Jam, 96 - Strawberries, Preserving, 95 - Sugar Biscuits, 68 - ---- Boiling, 74, 75 - ---- Clarifying, 72 - ---- Testing, 74 - ---- to prepare for Colouring, 87 - ---- to Colour, 87 - - - Tart Paste, Crisp, 58 - ---- Sweet, 58 - Tartlet, a Handsome, 58 - Tea Cakes, 24 - ---- Yorkshire, 24 - Technical Training, Need of, 1 - Testing Sugar, 74 - Toulouse Biscuits, 47 - Transparent Mint Lozenges, 91 - Treacle, Prepared, 33 - ---- for thick Gingerbread, 33 - Twelfth Cake, 64 - - - Unfermented or Diet Bread, 2 - - - Vanilla Drops, 80 - ---- Lozenges, 91 - ---- Ice Cream, 92 - Vaughan (Professor) on Adulteration with Alum, 13 - Venice Biscuits, 46 - Victoria Biscuits, 42 - Violet Drops, 81 - - - Walnut Biscuits, 48 - Wedding Cake, 63 - White Gingerbread, 34 - White Spice Biscuits, 68 - Whole Meal Bread, Home-made, 20 - ----for Master Bakers, 21 - Wine Biscuits, 40 - - - Yeast, American, Recipe for, 12 - ---- German, 11 - Yellow Colouring for Sugar, 89 - York Biscuits, 43 - Yorkshire Cakes, 24 - - -PRINTED BY J. S. VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED, CITY ROAD, LONDON. - - - - - * * * * * - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Minor punctuation errors (such as missing periods) have been corrected. - -Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained, except -in cases where the index was made to match the main text. - -Variations in the chapter headings and recipe names between the Table -of Contents and the main text have been retained. However, the entry -for recipe “57. Machine-made Biscuits” was incorrectly listed at the -end of Chapter IV. in the original. It has been moved to its correct -place under Chapter V.--Hard Biscuits. - -The following apparent typographical errors have been corrected. - -Page 3, “proteine” changed to “protein.” (consists of protein, -compounds) - -Page 39, “in to” changed to “into.” (crumbled into very small pieces) - -Page 49, “8 ozs. eggs” changed to “8 eggs.” (in German Wafers recipe) - -Page 56, “Biscuit” changed to “Biscuits.” (Sponge Biscuits) - -Page 68, “pennypiece” changed to “penny piece.” (a little thicker than -a penny piece) - -Page 69, “vol” changed to “voil.” (in Halfpenny Scotch Cakes recipe) - -Page 105, “Lunns” changed to “Luns.” (Sally Luns, 24) - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Bread and Biscuit Baker's and -Sugar-Boiler's Assistant, by Robert Wells - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BREAD AND BISCUIT MAKER'S ASSISTANT *** - -***** This file should be named 53627-0.txt or 53627-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/6/2/53627/ - -Produced by Cindy Horton and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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