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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-06 18:42:13 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-06 18:42:13 -0800 |
| commit | 8fef0492cb8f49f19f51c59a38f928671bc93db9 (patch) | |
| tree | bbac4eaf38fb8b07d483a07c12259c7c34a6b7ca | |
| parent | 826927625bd2980c5d1c2ce0f53b8c3a386a1601 (diff) | |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d9bcc5d --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53705 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53705) diff --git a/old/53705-0.txt b/old/53705-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 90cb5ce..0000000 --- a/old/53705-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10622 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Harper's Outdoor Book for Boys, by Various - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Harper's Outdoor Book for Boys - -Author: Various - -Editor: Joseph H. Adams - -Release Date: December 10, 2016 [EBook #53705] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARPER'S OUTDOOR BOOK FOR BOYS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, David Maranhao and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - HARPER’S “TELL ME HOW” BOOKS - _A New Series_ - - HARPER’S GASOLINE ENGINE BOOK - HARPER’S AIRCRAFT BOOK - HARPER’S WIRELESS BOOK - HARPER’S BEGINNING ELECTRICITY - HARPER’S EVERY-DAY ELECTRICITY - Illustrated. Crown 8vo. - ----- - - HARPER’S PRACTICAL BOOKS - - HARPER’S BOOK FOR YOUNG GARDENERS - HARPER’S BOOK FOR YOUNG NATURALISTS - HARPER’S HOW TO UNDERSTAND ELECTRICAL WORK - HARPER’S ELECTRICITY BOOK FOR BOYS - HARPER’S BOATING BOOK FOR BOYS - HARPER’S CAMPING AND SCOUTING - HARPER’S OUTDOOR BOOK FOR BOYS - HARPER’S INDOOR BOOK FOR BOYS - HARPER’S MACHINERY BOOK FOR BOYS - HARPER’S HANDY BOOK FOR GIRLS - Illustrated. Crown 8vo. - ----- - - THE STORY OF GREAT INVENTIONS - Uniform in appearance with above. - MOTOR BOATING FOR BOYS - Illustrated. Crown 8vo. - ----- - - HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -[Illustration: FIG. 11—A SINGLE-TREE HUT] - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - HARPER’S - OUTDOOR BOOK - FOR BOYS - - - BY - JOSEPH H. ADAMS - - WITH CONTRIBUTIONS BY - KIRK MUNROE, TAPPAN ADNEY - CAPT. HOWARD PATTERSON - LEROY MILTON YALE - AND OTHERS - - - WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS - - [Illustration] - - HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS - NEW YORK AND LONDON - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - Copyright, 1907, by HARPER & BROTHERS. - PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA - B-W - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - CONTENTS - - - Part I - - IN BOUNDS - PAGE - - CHAPTER I.—BACK-YARD PLEASURES 3 - - A WIGWAM - - A SQUARE TEPEE - - A RIDGE-POLE TEPEE - - A FOUNTAIN - - AN AQUARIUM - - HOW TO MANAGE AN AQUARIUM - - A MERRY-GO-ROUND - - CHAPTER II.—PET SHELTERS 29 - - MARTIN BOXES - - BIRD SHELTERS - - PIGEON-COTES - - DOG-KENNELS - - GUINEA-PIG HOUSES - - CHICKEN-COOPS - - RABBIT-HUTCHES - - SQUIRREL CAGES - - REPTILE PENS - - CHAPTER III.—SUMMER-HOUSES AND PERGOLAS 52 - - A SIMPLE SUMMER-HOUSE - - A BACK-YARD PERGOLA - - A TOADSTOOL TREE CANOPY - - A RUSTIC PERGOLA - - A CIRCULAR PERGOLA - - A SUMMER SHELTER - - CHAPTER IV.—WEATHER-VANES AND WINDMILLS 59 - - A PINION-WHEEL WEATHER-VANE - - A WIND-SPEEDER - - THE ARROW WEATHER-VANE - - WOODEN VANES - - A WIND-PENNANT - - A BASKET-BALL VANE - - A MERRY-GO-ROUND - - A WIND TURBINE - - A BARREL-HOOP PINION-WHEEL - - A PUMPING WINDMILL - - A WINDMILL AND TOWER - - - CHAPTER V.—AËRIAL TOYS 81 - - THE ELASTIC FLYING-MACHINE - - SELF-ACTING AËRIAL CAR - - AËRIAL BOAT-SAILING - - A “HIGH-FLYER” - - - Part II - - AFIELD - - CHAPTER VI.—COASTERS, SKEES, AND SNOW-SHOES 101 - - TOBOGGANS - - A ROCKER-COASTER - - A SINGLE-RUNNER COASTER - - A BOB-SLED - - SKEES - - SNOW-SHOES - - CHAPTER VII.—SAIL-SKATING AND SNOWBALL - ARTILLERY 115 - - A SKATING-SAIL - - A SQUARE-RIGGED ICE-SAIL - - A SNOWBALL MORTAR - - CHAPTER VIII.—KITES AND AEROPLANES 120 - - THE SHIP KITE - - THE CHINESE-JUNK KITE - - THE SCHOONER KITE - - A BALLOON KITE - - AN AIR-SHIP KITE - - BAT-WING AND CROWN-TOP KITES - - SANDWICH ISLANDS BIRD KITE - - BOX KITES - - THE FLYING-WEDGE AND DOUBLE-PLANE KITE - - KITE-REELS - - CHAPTER IX.—FISHING-TACKLE 144 - - CHOICE OF TACKLE - - BAIT-RODS AND FLY-RODS - - REPAIRS, KNOTS, AND SPLICES - - AIDS FOR YOUNG ANGLERS - - BAITS, AND WHERE TO FIND THEM - - A TRAP FOR SMALL FISH - - A WATER-TURTLE TRAP - - AN EEL-POT - - A SCAP-NET - - A HOOK DROP-NET - - - CHAPTER X.—LAND-YACHTS AND PUSHMOBILES 177 - - A LAND-YACHT - - A SAIL-WAGON - - A PUSHMOBILE - - CHAPTER XI.—FIRE-ENGINES AND TRUCKS 191 - - THE ENGINE - - THE HOSE-CARRIAGE - - THE HOOK-AND-LADDER TRUCK - - CHAPTER XII.—WATER-WHEELS 201 - - A SIMPLE PADDLE-WHEEL - - A WAGON WHEEL - - A BARREL-WHEEL - - AN UNDERSHOT-WHEEL - - A POWER-WHEEL - - A WHEEL-RACE - - - Part III - - AFLOAT - - CHAPTER XIII.—BOATS 211 - - PUNT AND SCOW - - A SHARPY - - A DORY - - A SAILING SHARPY - - A CENTRE-BOARD SHARPY - - A PROA - - A LARK - - A POWER-BOAT - - CHAPTER XIV.—CATAMARANS 239 - - A ROWING CATAMARAN - - A SAILING CATAMARAN - - A SIDE-WHEEL CATAMARAN - - CHAPTER XV.—ICE-BOATS 249 - - A SLOOP-RIGGED ICE-YACHT - - A TWIN-MAST ICE-BOAT - - SCOOTS AND SCOOTERS - - A WIND-RUNNER - - CHAPTER XVI.—HOUSE-BOATS AND RAFTS 261 - - A HOUSE-PUNT - - A HOUSE-RAFT - - A FLOAT - - - CHAPTER XVII.—MARLINE-SPIKE SEAMANSHIP 280 - - SPLICES - - KNOTS - - BENDS - - HITCHES - - - Part IV - - IN THE WOODS - - CHAPTER XVIII.—CAMPS AND CAMPING 295 - - A TENT OF MEDIUM SIZE - - A LARGE CAMPING-TENT - - FLIES AND CANOPIES - - A HOUSE-TENT - - THE NEW TENT - - CANVAS COTS AND HAMMOCKS - - TABLES AND BENCHES - - CAMPING EQUIPMENT - - LOCKERS AND MESS-KITS - - A STONE STOVE AND CAMP-FIRES - - CAMP-COOKING - - THE CARE OF A GUN - - CHAPTER XIX.—TRAPS AND TRAPPING 334 - - SNARES AND DEADFALLS - - CHAPTER XX.—TREE HUTS AND BRUSH-HOUSES 350 - - A LOW TWIN-TREE HUT - - A HIGH TWIN-TREE HUT - - A SINGLE-TREE HUT - - A LOW SINGLE-TREE HUT - - A BRUSH-HOUSE - - A BRUSH “LEAN-TO” - - CHAPTER XXI.—WALKING-STICKS 367 - - HOW TO GROW THEM FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT - - - - - INTRODUCTION - - -“How to do it,” might very well be the title of this new handy-book for -American boys. It is first and last a practical guide, based upon the -experience of those who have done what they describe. Results are -wanted, not theories in a book of this kind, and careful tests have been -applied to secure working results and the certainty that everything will -come out all right. - -Another point, which has had the most careful attention of a board of -editors, is that of selection. It would be easy to include a quantity of -sports and games, and also plans for elaborate contrivances neither -particularly amusing nor necessary when done. But the object of this -book is to show boys how to do accurately things which are quite within -their powers, and things also which will be a satisfaction when they are -done. The plan followed is to develop a boy’s ingenuity and mechanical -ability along lines which will reward him. In short, the book is -intended to help a boy to think and act for himself and to have fun in -doing it. - -The plan of arrangement which is followed is the natural one—to begin at -home. The back yard lies immediately at hand. Let us see what can be -done there. The aquarium, pet shelters, windmills, and many other -contrivances are identified with the home. - -Going farther afield we learn the making of coasters and skees, -ice-boats and snow cannon, and all that enters into winter sports. There -is the air, also, with its invitation to kites and aeroplanes, and there -is water, with all the chances for the use of water-power and sport. -Fishing itself is something best learned by experience, but the choice -and management of tackle afford a most instructive theme. And water -naturally has an importance which requires an entire division of the -book wherein boat-building and boat-management of all kinds are -thoroughly and practically explained. - -Camping out, which appeals to every healthy boy, is treated from every -point of view in the fourth division of the book, which includes also -trapping, taxidermy, and tree huts and brush houses. - -In all these general divisions the aim of the editors and author has -been to show in the simplest and most accurate way how to do things -which are amusing to do and valuable when done. - -The principal contributor to this book is an amateur carpenter, -boat-builder, and mechanician as well as an artist and writer. One -editor has had a wide practical experience in almost everything that has -to do with out-door amusements. Another has camped and fished in the -four corners of our country and in Canada. All their experience has been -combined to prepare a convenient out-door handy-book free from -unnecessary words and details, and filled with the latest and best -methods, which will be indispensable to every American boy who likes the -fun of doing things for himself. - - - - - Part I - - IN BOUNDS - - - - - OUT-DOOR BOOK FOR BOYS - - - - - Chapter I - - BACK-YARD PLEASURES - - -Since home is the natural centre of life, it will be most helpful if we -find out what we can do just outside the house. In large cities there is -usually no front yard, and even where such space exists its use as a -play-ground is apt to be undesirable. But the back yard even in cities -often affords some chances not only for gardening on a small scale but -also for making and using a variety of things which will furnish -constant amusement. - - - A Wigwam - -For boys who like to “play Injun” in the back yard, here are some ideas -for tepees and wigwams that may easily be followed cut at a very small -cost for the poles and canvas. - -Canvas can be bought at a dry-goods or country store, and poles may be -cut in the woods; or one-and-one-half-inch-square spruce sticks may be -purchased at a lumber-yard and dressed round with a draw-knife and -plane. When cutting poles for a wigwam it is necessary to select very -straight ones, preferably of pine, for crooked or knotty poles are -unsightly and make an uneven exterior. - -The real Indian tepee is made from buckskin or other strong hides lashed -together with rawhide thongs; but as this covering is beyond the reach -of the average boy, the next best thing to use will be heavy twilled -canvas or stout unbleached muslin that can be had for about ten cents a -yard. The regulation wigwam is perhaps the most satisfactory kind of a -tent, for it is roomy, will shed water, and it is about the only tent in -which a fire may be built without smoking out the occupants. The tepee -will not blow over if properly set up and stayed with an anchor-rope, -and it is easily taken down and moved from place to place. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - A WIGWAM -] - -For a party of three or four boys the wigwam shown in Fig. 1 will afford -ample room, and it is not so large as to be unhandy. Select thirteen -straight poles, not more than two inches thick at the bottom, and clear -them from knots and projecting twigs. They should be ten feet long and -pointed at the bottom so as to stick into the ground for a few inches. -Tie three of them together eighteen inches from the top, and form a -tripod on a circle five feet and six inches in diameter. Place the other -poles against this tripod to form a cone, as shown in Fig. 2, and lash -them fast at the top with a piece of clothes-line. From unbleached -muslin or sail-cloth (light weight) make a cover as shown in the diagram -Fig. 3. Lay out a sixteen-foot circle on a barn floor, or the grass, -with chalk, and indicate an eighteen-inch circle at the middle. Around -the outer circle or periphery measure off nineteen feet and chalk-mark -the space. From these marks to the centre of the circle draw straight -lines, and within these limits the area of the wigwam cover will be -shown. It should correspond with the plan drawing in Fig. 3. The muslin -should be three feet wide and with it this area can be covered in any -direction, sewing the strips together to make the large sheet; or the -muslin may be cut in strips three feet wide at one end and tapering to a -few inches at the other, as shown in Fig. 4, the seams running up and -down the canvas instead of across it. The outer edge of the canvas cover -should be bound with clothes-line or cotton rope, sewed securely with -waxed white string; then thirteen short ropes should be passed over this -rope so that the canvas may be lashed fast to the foot of each pole to -hold the cover in place. The doorway flaps are formed by stopping the -lacings three feet up from the ground. With short ropes and rings sewed -to the cover the flaps may be tied back, as shown in Fig. 1. - -The real Indian wigwams are decorated with all sorts of emblems, for -even the uncivilized red men had their crests and totems, and the boys -who make these tepees can easily invent some mark which will distinguish -their tent abode from all others. The ornamentation should be done with -paint and should be carried out before the canvas covering is stretched -over the poles. - - - A Square Tepee - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 -] - -A square tepee, as shown in the illustration Fig. 5, is another form of -rear-yard tent that is easily made. Twelve poles are selected and four -of them are lashed fast and spread apart on a square of six feet. Two -poles are added to each side and all are lashed together at the head. -Four pieces of canvas or heavy unbleached muslin are cut and made on the -plan as shown in Fig. 6, the strips being cut from goods a yard wide. -These pieces are six feet long, one foot wide at the head, and six feet -at the foot. The seam through the middle of one piece is left open for -three feet to form the doorway flaps, then the four sides are securely -sewed together with waxed white string. This cover is slipped about the -pole frame, tied at the front, and held down by means of short ropes -that are lashed fast to the foot of each pole. The cover is decorated -with paint to give it the Indian appearance, and when the flaps are tied -back it is easy to go into and come out of the tepee. - - - A Ridge-pole Tepee - -A ridge-pole tepee is shown in Fig. 7, and is a very easy and simple one -to make, for it is of one piece of canvas with two flaps sewed at each -side to form the ends. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 7 -] - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 8 -] - -One ridge and two upright poles make the framework, and they are held in -place by the canvas, which is drawn and lashed fast to stakes driven in -the ground, as may be seen in the drawing. The ridge-pole is eight feet -long, one and a half inches thick, and four inches wide. Two inches from -either end a half-inch hole is bored to receive the iron pins that are -driven in the ends of the uprights as shown at Fig. 8 A and B. The -upright poles are eight feet long, and when set one foot of the lower -end should be embedded in the ground. The sides are in one piece of -muslin made by sewing widths of it together. The sheet measures -seventeen feet long and eight feet wide; and when stretched over the -ridge-pole and fastened down at both sides an inverted shape will be the -result. It is ten feet across at the bottom, seven feet high, and eight -feet long at each side. For the back it will be necessary to make a -triangular piece of canvas the right size to fit the opening, or two -flaps may be cut, divided at the middle, and tied back, or laced, to -close the tent. The apron or part enclosure at the front is formed from -pieces of canvas two feet wide sewed along the edges and caught together -at the middle over the opening. - -Ten pegs eighteen inches long and two inches wide are cut from hard-wood -as shown at Fig. 8 C. These are driven in the ground at an angle and -ropes attached to the lower edges of the canvas sidings are lashed fast -to them. This tepee is long enough to swing a hammock from pole to pole, -and on a warm summer night makes an ideal place for sleeping -out-of-doors. The covering, like that of the other wigwams, may be -decorated with Indian emblems, and if a party of boys are going to camp -in the back yard their tepees can be inscribed with different crests and -totems to indicate individual ownership. - - - A Fountain - -A practicable rear-yard fountain may be made with a brick or concrete -basin, an underground pipe-line and an overflow, thus insuring a -continuous flow and discharge. - -In Fig. 9 the basin, pipe, and trap are shown with the inlet pipe fitted -for a hose connection. Three plates of different sizes are used for the -traps, and if care is taken in drilling the holes an opening may be made -in the bottom of each plate so that it will slip over the stand-pipe. -Tin or enamelled iron plates will answer the purpose very well for a -while, but the tin plates would soon rust unless frequently painted. The -white earthern-ware plates will present the best appearance and will -last indefinitely. - -Dig a circular hole thirty inches across and twelve inches deep, and -with cement and sand make a hard bottom or bed. Use a trowel and smooth -the cement so that the top surface is smooth. With some bricks form a -circle, as shown at Fig. 10. With a cold-chisel and mallet cut away the -edges of two bricks so that the overflow pipe will pass between them, as -shown at A in Fig. 10. - -The pipe should be half or three-quarter inch galvanized water-pipe, and -it may be purchased at a plumber’s shop for a few cents a foot. - -The supply-pipe is three-eighths-inch galvanized water-pipe, and should -be set in place under the concrete bottom of the basin before the cement -is poured in. The upright, or stand-pipe, is thirty-six inches high from -the elbow, B (Fig. 10), in the ground. The cross-pipe leading out is -eighteen or twenty inches long, and the short upright that comes to the -surface outside the basin is fifteen inches long and is to be provided -with a hose connection so that a garden hose may be attached to it. The -stand-pipe in the basin and the cross-piece should be embedded in the -cement concrete, and when it is dry and hardens around the pipes it will -hold them securely in place. When the circle of bricks is complete, fill -in the crevices with equal parts of cement and sand mixed into a mortar. -This will lock the bricks together; then plaster the cement all around -the inside of the circle and some at the outside so as to make a -water-tight basin. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 -] - -Earth is to be put back into the hole outside the circle of bricks and -the sod replaced, so that grass will grow right up to the edge of the -basin rim, which should project an inch or two above the surface of the -ground. - -From a plumber or gas-fitter obtain some old pieces of brass tubing an -inch in diameter, cut one of them fourteen inches long, and slip it down -over the stand-pipe. The lowest and largest plate rests on this. Next -cut a piece of tubing nine inches long and slip it over the pipe. The -second plate rests on this and the top plate is supported by a piece of -the tubing cut six inches in length and slipped over the pipe. If -porcelain dishes are used, make the first hole in them as follows: - -Obtain a stout, three-inch steel wire nail, a block of wood about three -inches square, having an inch hole bored at one end, and a small -hard-wood mallet. Place a plate on the block of wood, inverted so that -its centre will be exactly over the hole. Place the point of the nail on -the plate, taking care to get it in the centre; then give it a sharp, -quick blow with the mallet. If this is properly done a small piece of -the porcelain will be driven out, but remember that if the blow is not -properly centred it will break the plate. For this reason it is best to -practise first on a broken plate; or if the porcelain seems to be -impossible, the painted tin or enamelled plates will have to answer. A -perforated porcelain plate is shown in Fig. 11 A. The ragged hole can be -smoothed out or chafed away with an old rat-tail or half-round file. A -brass reducer and a gas pillar should be screwed fast to the top of the -stand-pipe so that a jet of water about a quarter of an inch in diameter -will shoot above the pipe. - -If a little wooden ball is to dance at the top of the jet, a -half-circular basket will be necessary to catch the ball when it falls, -so that the stream of water can pick it up again. This is made from -brass or galvanized wire, and where the wires cross bind the joint with -fine copper wire and solder the joints so as to make them rigid. A small -brass ferrule or short piece of pipe should be soldered to the bottom of -this basket, so as to hold it in place when slipped over the pillar or -nozzle. This basket and its shape is more clearly shown in Fig. 11 B. It -should be six or eight inches in diameter and three inches deep, with -the wires close enough together to prevent the ball from falling -through. - -If it is not possible to get the bricks of which to form the basin, a -concrete wall can be made instead. Dig the hole as before described; -then construct a cylinder of wood twenty-four inches in diameter and -eight inches thick. Floor over the bottom of the hole with concrete, -after the stand-pipe is in place, and around the edge of the concrete -floor and outside the cylinder embed some small stones so that the -filling will hold fast. This is shown at _c c_ in Fig. 12. Slip the -wooden cylinder over the stand-pipe so that it will occupy the position -as shown in Fig. 12. Make a mixture of coarse sand or gravel and cement, -half and half, and add a shovel or two of small stones, preferably -cracked, such as are used for the under-dressing to macadam roads. Tamp -this down in the opening in the ground so as to fill up the ditch or -moat as shown at Fig. 13. The outside of the cylinder should be -thoroughly coated with lard or some heavy grease before the concrete is -poured in, so that the wood will not absorb the moisture from the -concrete and cause it to bind in the hole. As a precaution it would be -well to make the bottom of the cylinder an inch smaller in diameter than -the top, so that it may draw out easily after the concrete has set. The -two slots shown in the top of the cylinder are hand holes to grasp it -by. - -With nearly clear cement, having but a small portion of sand added, -finish the inside of the basin and the rim with a trowel so as to give -it a smooth and even surface. The force of water may be regulated with a -faucet. - - - An Aquarium - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 -] - -There is nothing difficult in the construction of a glass-and-wood -aquarium like the one shown in Fig. 14, and the boy who is handy with -tools and careful in joining wood-work accurately will be able to knock -it together in short order. The best size will be twenty-four inches -long, fifteen wide, and ten inches high. This will be generous enough in -proportions to accommodate a dozen or so of small fish, some baby eels, -crawfish, a turtle or two, and some water-lizards. - -From a carpenter obtain a piece of white-wood twenty-seven inches long, -seventeen inches wide, and one and a half inches in thickness. This must -be of selected stock, hard and free from knots or sappy places. Cut four -battens of hard-wood two inches wide, an inch thick, and fifteen inches -long, and with brass screws attach them securely to the underside of the -board to prevent its warping from the action of the water. Obtain a -stick one inch and a half square and four feet long; cut this into -lengths of eleven inches each and also prepare one eight feet long, two -inches wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick. With a groove-plane -having a quarter-inch blade cut into the square stick on two sides as -shown in Fig. 15 A. The edge of the stick between the two grooves may -then be planed off so that an end view of the stick will appear as shown -at Fig. 15 B. A groove should be cut at one side of the long stick -three-eighths of an inch from one edge so that when turned groove side -down an end will appear as shown at C in Fig. 15. This stick is to be -cut in lengths fifteen and twenty-four inches respectively for top -rails. - -In the four corners of the white-wood board cut a hole with bit and -chisel three-quarters of an inch square as shown at Fig. 16. Saw the -bottom of each square stick so as to cut away about a quarter of an inch -of wood on each side as shown at the lower part of A in Fig. 15. This is -made so that the uprights will fit snugly into the holes and the -shoulder formed by the saw-cuts will rest on the top of the base board. - -With straight rule and pencil mark parallel lines connecting each hole -as shown at D D in Fig. 16. These lines should correspond in position -with the grooves cut in the posts; then remove the posts and with -grooving-plane or chisel and mallet cut the grooves about three-eighths -of an inch in depth. The glass sides fit into these grooves, and the top -rails made from the long stick cap the upper edges of the glass sides. -The ends should be lapped and screwed down to the top of the -corner-posts to bind the glass and wood-work in one compact framework. - -Before any of the wood-work is put together give it three successive -thin coats of black asphaltum varnish, which can be purchased at a paint -or hardware store. Each hole and the plug ends of the corner-posts are -to be coated with thick asphaltum varnish, and when wet with the varnish -the posts are to be driven into the holes. Screws passed in through the -sides of the base board will hold them securely in place. - -From a glazier or hardware store purchase two panes of double-thick -glass ten by fourteen inches, and two measuring ten by twenty-two -inches. Give the grooves a thick coat of the asphaltum varnish, slide -the glass down into the grooves, and screw the top rails in place. When -the glass is in place and before the top rails are put on, the glass -should stand a quarter of an inch above the top of the corner-posts. -When the rails are laid in place the top edge of the glass should be -caught by the groove in the rails, otherwise the glass, having no -support at the top, would bow out on account of the pressure of water, -and either cause the glass to break or the joints to leak. Press the -glass sides against the outer edges of the grooves and lightly insert -some wooden wedges into the grooves to hold the glass in place -temporarily for a day or two or until the varnish sets. Then fill the -open spaces in the grooves with a putty made from whiting and asphaltum -varnish. This you will have to make yourself with a putty-knife on a -plate of glass, marble, or slate, for you cannot purchase it. Common -putty is not hard enough and will not dry for months, while the special -putty will set quickly and dry hard in a few days. When all the work is -completed about the aquarium allow it to stand for at least a week, in -which time the putty and varnish will harden. - -At a paint store purchase some marine paint, also known as “copper -paint,” and give the wood-work two or three thin successive coats, -allowing it to dry for a few days between each coat. Scrape the paint -from the glass where it may have been smeared, and the complete aquarium -is ready for water and stock. - -Another way in which to construct the framework is to take a -curtain-pole one and a half inches in diameter, and at a planing-mill -have a quarter section sawed out, as shown at Fig. 17, so that an end -rim will appear as shown at B. The part of the wood-work the buzz-saw -cuts away will correspond with the grooves cut in the square sticks. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 17 - Fig. 18 - Fig. 19 - Fig. 20 - Fig. 21 - Fig. 22 -] - -Four holes one and a half inches in diameter, or the same size as the -stick, are bored half-way-through the bottom-board of the aquarium and -V-shaped channels are cut in the board connecting the holes (Fig. 18). -The wood-work is treated in a manner similar to that already described, -and the corner-posts are held in place by long brass screws driven up -through the bottom and into the lower ends of the posts. The top rail is -made the same as shown in Fig. 15 C, and the glass is set as described. -At the corner-posts the lap is well smeared with asphaltum varnish and -putty and the angle strips are screwed fast to the posts as indicated at -A in Fig. 17. While this is somewhat easier to make it is not quite so -substantial for large tanks as the square post and channels. - -When catching the stock for the aquarium it is best to use a drop-net. -This is made of two iron hoops fifteen or twenty inches in diameter and -held one below the other with cord as shown at Fig. 19. Mosquito-netting -is drawn across the lower hoop and sewed fast; then a band of it is -sewed about both hoops to close in the sides, to form a cylinder open at -the top only. Some bait is placed in the bottom of the net, and then it -is lowered into the water so that the top hoop drops down and the whole -net lies flat on the bottom of a pond. When a number of fish are around -the bait a quick haul will raise the upper ring; then pull the net up -with the fish captives within the cylinder. You can quickly select the -ones you want, and these may be placed in a pail partly filled with -water. - -For turtles, crawfish, and lizards a scap-net will be necessary. This -may be made from stout wire, a broom-handle, and some netting. The ring -may be almost any size, from six to twelve inches in diameter, the ends -being sharpened with a file and turned so that they may be driven into -the end of the stick, which should first be bound with wire to prevent -it from splitting. The bag of mosquito-netting is made on the hoop and -sewed fast, as shown at Fig. 20. When changing the water in the aquarium -it is not necessary to empty it all out. A siphon made of a small rubber -tube will answer very well to drain off a portion. The part of the tube -in the tank should be held close to the bottom so as to suck up any dirt -or sediment that may be there. Good ventilation, light, healthy aquatic -plants, clean sand, and a proper proportion of fish to the volume of -water are absolutely necessary to the successful aquarium. A few -tadpoles and snails are advantageous in an aquarium, as they consume -decaying vegetable matter and help to prevent the formation of algæ on -the glass. - -For the aquarium large enough to contain them, some artificial rockeries -may be made from cement, gravel, and stones, as shown in the -illustrations of the concrete rockeries Figs. 21 and 22. They should be -made with openings beneath for the fish to swim through, and pockets -should be made at the top to hold sand and the roots of aquatic plants. -The rockeries should have a good flat base so as to rest securely on the -bottom of the aquarium. Always have plenty of pebbles and river-sand at -the bottom of the aquarium to make the fishes feel at home. - - - How to Manage an Aquarium - -It is generally supposed that it is necessary to change the water in an -aquarium at least once a day; but that is not the case. The true -principle on which an aquarium should be conducted is not to change the -water at all, but so to aërate and refresh the original supply as to -maintain it always in a pure and perfect state. There are several means -by which this may be done. The healthy growth of plants is very -important, and active and brisk contact with the air of the atmosphere -will greatly freshen the water. Motion in the water is absolutely -necessary. In large aquaria this is obtained by an arrangement of tanks -into which the water is pumped, and from which it flows rapidly, -circulating through the tanks where the fish live. In its passage -through the air it absorbs considerable oxygen, without which no fish -can live. Fish placed in water that has been boiled die in a very few -minutes. - -The first thing to be done in the formation of a fresh-water aquarium is -to start your plants in proper soil at the bottom of your tank, fill the -tank with water, and leave it undisturbed until the plants begin to grow -and the little bubbles of oxygen are to be seen rising to the surface of -the water. - -Choose your plants from such as you may collect from rivers or brooks or -ponds anywhere in the country. Plant them, and then cover the surface of -the soil with pebbles and small bits of rock, or anything that is -suitable and in keeping with the rest of your arrangements. Never put -sea-shells into a fresh-water aquarium. - -Now fill your tank with water poured through a siphon or funnel, being -very careful not to disturb the soil or the roots of the plants. You -should have some clean river-sand in the bottom of your tank, and your -pieces of rock should be so arranged as to form little caves and -hiding-places for your fish. It will take perhaps two weeks to get your -tank into a proper condition for fish to live in. Every bit of dead or -decaying vegetation should be carefully removed. Keep your tank shaded -from the heat of the sun, and expose it to the bright light only once in -a while. - -In order to manage your aquarium properly you will require a few simple -tools. A little hand-net that can be bought for a few cents, or made for -even less out of a bit of wire and a small piece of mosquito-netting, is -useful for catching the fish or shells without putting your hands into -the water. A pair of wooden forceps, like a glove-stretcher, will be -found most convenient for nipping off bits of decaying plants or for -catching objects that may have accidentally fallen into the water. Glass -tubes of various sizes are also useful. If you want to catch any small -object in the water with the tube, place the tube in the water with your -finger over the hole in the top. Until your finger is removed the tube -will remain full of air. Place it over the bit of refuse or whatever it -is you want to catch, remove your finger, and the water will rush in, -carrying the object with it into the tube, which should then be closed -at the upper end by placing your finger over it as before. A glass or -hard-rubber syringe is necessary with which to aërate the water -thoroughly at least once a day, and oftener if possible. Fill the -syringe, hold it high above the tank, and then squirt the water back -again. - -If a green film begins to gather on the side of the tank that is most -exposed to the light, it should be cleaned away every day, and the sides -of the glass polished carefully. A small piece of clean sponge tied on -the end of a stick will answer the purpose very well, and, if used -daily, you can keep the glass clear with very little trouble; but if the -scum is neglected and left to accumulate, you will find it almost -impossible to remove it from the glass even by hard scouring. - -It is best to have only small fish in your aquarium, and for this reason -trout are not desirable. Although very beautiful and intelligent, they -grow so rapidly that they are likely to become in a short time too -unwieldy for your tank. Goldfish and minnows are very good, and the -common little sunfish or “pumpkin-seed” is excellent. - -You must keep careful watch over the fish in your aquarium, and if any -one of them appears to be sick he should be removed at once, very -gently, with the hand-net, and placed in fresh water, where he will -often recover. If, however, the little sufferer is doomed to die, it is -better not to run the risk of his doing so among his healthy companions. -It is best always to have a hospital for your sickly pets, and as soon -as one of them, whether a fish or a bird or any animal, shows signs of -ill health, he should be taken away from the others and placed by -himself. - -Certain varieties of snails live well in fresh water, and will be found -useful in clearing away the green film that is almost certain to collect -on the side of the glass; but you must be careful or they will devour -your plants as well; and if your tank is very small it is hardly worth -while to try to keep them. - -Water-beetles and water-spiders also thrive well, and their habits are -most interesting to watch; but water-beetles fly by night, and unless -you are careful to cover your tank you are likely to discover some -morning that a number of your tenants have taken French leave. - -You must be careful not to overstock your aquarium, for your fish will -not thrive if they are overcrowded. Remember, also, that heat and dust -are fatal to your pets. The water must be kept clean and cool at all -times, and all foreign matter and every particle of decaying vegetation -should be removed immediately. - -To manage an aquarium successfully, no matter on how small a scale, -requires a good deal of care and time, but you will find it time well -spent, and the pleasure and knowledge the study of your pets will give -you will be an ample return for the time you spend on them. - - - A Merry-go-round - -A great deal of fun may be had with a merry-go-round in the rear yard, -and while it may not be run by an engine or its motion accompanied by an -organ, hand power will turn the table and music can be made with an old -accordion or concertina. The only difficult thing about the whole affair -is the bevelled gear, the shaft and crank; but if an old reaper can be -found at a blacksmith-shop the difficulty is solved, for a pair of -bevelled gears are on every reaping-machine. Of course a machine-shop or -foundry would contain gearing of various sizes, and a five and twelve -inch gear wheel will answer the purpose very well. - -In the practical back-yard merry-go-round shown in Fig. 23 the revolving -post is four inches square and may be of spruce or white-wood planed on -all sides and provided with a ferrule at both ends. These may be taken -from old buggy-wheels, and will prevent the wood from splitting when the -pins are driven in. The lower cross-beams _a a_ in Fig. 24 are of -spruce, eight feet long and two by three inches. The beams _b b_ are six -feet and six inches long, and on these four the cross-plates are made -fast that hold the top or deck planks. The six cross-timbers are of -spruce, one by four inches, and are from two to eight feet in length, -according to their location. The beam plan (Fig. 24) shows quite clearly -how these supporting beams are arranged. They are held together with -steel wire-nails driven down from the upper beams diagonally into the -lower ones. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 23 - Fig. 24 - Fig. 25 - Fig. 26 - Fig. 27 - Fig. 28 - A MERRY-GO-ROUND -] - -The longest beams are securely spiked to the revolving shaft, and in -securing them in place take care to see that they are perfectly true, so -that the outer edge of the platform will not dip and rise as it -revolves. Drive a three-quarter-inch rod in the top of the shaft and -another one in the bottom having a bevelled point as shown at Fig. 25. -At the lower end of the shaft arrange the larger gear wheel and pin it -fast so that it is fixed to the shaft and will not move. - -An iron base-plate with an upright arm welded to it will hold the shaft -and the smaller gear, which is to be arranged the right height to lock -in with the teeth of the large gear. This plate is shown in Fig. 26; and -through the four holes at the corners long screws are passed to bolt the -plate securely to a wooden base, which last is set in the ground as -shown at A in Fig. 27. The shaft B, to the end of which the small gear -wheel is made fast, extends out beyond one of the upright posts, and at -the outer end a crank and handle C are made fast, so that by hand-power -the platform and shaft may be revolved. - -Construct an overhead framework of six by two inch spruce beams twelve -feet long, and set them in the ground twelve feet apart, bracing the -uprights well, braced at both sides with angle beams as shown in Fig. -23. The top bar should be well braced also with one or two angle -brackets, to prevent the frame from rocking. If the ground props are not -strong enough to properly brace the frame, attach heavy wires to the -corners and carry them out in both directions, making the ends fast to -stout pieces of joist embedded in the ground. - -At the middle of the top cross-bar arrange a plate of wood eighteen -inches long with a groove cut in it in which the pin at the top of the -square shaft may revolve. This plate should be attached to the bar with -lag screws, so that it can be removed when it is necessary to unstep the -shaft and platform. The outer line of deck planking is shown in the deck -plan (Fig. 28), and inside of these boards as many others can be laid -down as desired; or the entire frame may be all decked over, leaving a -small space near the middle so as to reach the gear and lower pin in -order to grease them. Where the shaft passes one of the uprights of the -supporting frame an iron strap will hold it in place against the wood, -and this bearing will require lubrication from time to time. - -Four stout wire guys must be drawn from the top of the shaft and -fastened at the outer edge of the platform to one of the beam ends. The -anchorage should be made with very stout, strong screw-eyes, and to make -it easier to draw the wires taut four small turn-buckles should be -purchased at a hardware store and made fast to the lower ends of the -wires, the hook on the buckle being caught in the large screw-eyes. - -Seats may be made from boxes and nailed to the deck, and as a safeguard -to prevent falling from the turn-table ropes should be attached to the -stanchion wires and to the shaft as shown in Fig. 23. - -It would be well to paint all the wood-work in order to give it a good -appearance, and all the iron parts should be coated with asphaltum -varnish to prevent rusting. - -If the gears are properly adjusted and there is no friction at the -bearings, it will not be a difficult matter to move the table with -several children occupying the seats. The bevelled point bearing at the -bottom rests in a drilled depression in the plate, and the friction -there is reduced to a minimum, while at the top the friction will be -slight if the weight is properly distributed on the turn-table. - - - - - Chapter II - - PET SHELTERS - - -Most boys are interested in pet animals, and at one time or another -possess them. Cats and dogs are domesticated and will always stay about -the house if they are properly cared for and treated kindly, but -rabbits, guinea-pigs, squirrels, monkeys, and reptiles often forget -where they belong and will wander away and neglect to come back. - -For this reason it will be necessary to build houses and hutches for -them, and so safeguard the doorways and screenings that they cannot -escape. - -It is not possible, of course, to give a lengthy description of pet -shelters, since there are so many different kinds in use by boys all -over the world; but the illustrations on these pages will give some -ideas for the American and English boys to follow in making houses, -hutches, and retreats to shelter their pet animals, birds, and reptiles. - -In speaking of reptiles, that does not necessarily mean snakes, for -under this classification come the horned-toads, lizards, turtles, and -many of the beautiful tropical creeping and crawling things that in warm -countries take the place of the white mice, rabbits, guinea-pigs, and -canary-birds of our northern climes. - -Some boys have a natural aptitude for carpenter-work, but there may be -ideas in these illustrations and the accompanying descriptions that will -be helpful both to them, and to the boy who has as yet to make his first -kennel or pigeon-cote. - - - Martin Boxes - -In the early spring, when the birds return to the north, the martins are -among the first to appear, and long before the swallows, whom they -closely resemble, begin to nest they have hatched their young and have -taken their departure from the southland. - -They are cold-weather birds, fly rapidly, and do not stay long in one -place. They seldom build their nests in the branches of trees, but -prefer to find a hole in a tree-trunk, and there build a nest safe from -the wind and storm. The sand-martin burrows a hole in the side of a -bank, but never builds a nest in the chimneys as do his brother and -sister swallows. The martin, when sitting on her eggs, likes a dark and -sheltered place, and for that reason she takes kindly to a martin box in -which a hole is made sufficiently large for her to fly in and out of. - -In Fig. 1 a small keg is supported at the top of a post and braced at -the bottom with two bracket pieces. A hole two inches and a half in -diameter is made at each end of the keg, through which the martins can -enter, and the post to which the keg is fastened is cut away at the -upper end as shown in Fig. 2. - -In one side of the bilge of the keg a hole is cut as large as the post -is square or round, and at the other side a corresponding hole is cut -the size of the upper part of the post. The keg is then dropped down -over the post so that the shoulder, formed by cutting away the wood, -will rest under the upper side of the keg, in which the smaller square -hole has been cut. - -If a round post is employed, the upper part should be cut square so as -to prevent the wind from blowing the keg round the post. A cross-stick -fastened at the top of the post will form a perch on which the birds may -alight. - -A box with a peaked roof and three divisions, intended to accommodate -three families of the birds, is shown in Fig. 3. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 -] - -An ordinary box may be cut and rearranged with a pitched roof, an inner -floor, and the three divisions. A small hole is bored at each side of -the box and a round stick passed through it, so that six or eight inches -of the wood will project at either side to serve as perches. Another -perch can be arranged at the top of the box, and this bird-house is then -securely fastened to the upper end of a post and braced there with -bracket-pieces nailed both to the bottom of the box and to the post. - -The divisions in the box should be not less than six inches square and -six or eight inches high. If the box used be square it will probably be -an easier job to divide it into four divisions for as many families. -Each compartment, of course, must be provided with its separate hole for -ingress and egress. - - - Bird Shelters - -Birds do not always seek the shelter of trees in a storm; they will -often gather about the house and under barn eaves and piazza sheds, -where they are protected from the rain and the drippings from wet -leaves. They like a dry shelter, and structures suitable for their needs -can be knocked together from very simple material. In the illustration -of a bird shelter (Fig. 4), a canvas or heavy muslin roof is supported -on two uprights, and under it five perches are arranged from side to -side, upon which a great many birds can rest. - -The uprights are one and a half by three inches, and the strips forming -the Y braces are two inches wide and seven-eighths of an inch thick. - -The perches are three-quarter-inch dowels three feet long. If they -cannot be had at a carpenter’s shop or a hardware store, some small -scantling may be planed nearly round to answer the same purpose. Where -the perches are attached to the uprights and Y pieces, holes are bored -half-way through the wood. Into these the ends of the perches are driven -and nailed fast. - -In Fig. 5 the canvas is left off from one side so that the -constructional parts of the upright, braces, and roof strips may be -seen. When the wood-work is put together the roof should be covered with -canvas, heavy unbleached muslin, or a piece of oil-cloth, and tacked all -around the edges. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 -] - -To make the barrel-hoop shelter, shown in Fig. 6, a flat barrel-hoop is -loosely covered with canvas or muslin tacked all around the edge. In the -top of a post a wooden peg is driven, and over this the middle of the -canvas disk is slipped, having first made a hole in the fabric through -which the peg can pass. Four wires are attached to the hoop at equal -distances apart, and the lower ends caught through staples or screw-eyes -driven in the post a foot or two from the top. Two or three holes should -be made through the post in which round perches may be driven. - -A shelter for the side of a house or barn can be made from a piece of -board, two bracket strips, and three dowels or round sticks to act as -perches. - -The board should be three feet long and fifteen inches wide. Where it is -attached to the house or barn a strip is first attached, and the inner -edge of the board is then nailed fast to the strip. The two bracket -strips that support the roof at the outer edge should be twenty-four -inches long, one inch thick, and two inches wide. Three or four sets of -holes are bored in the strips to receive the ends of the dowels or -perches. - - - Pigeon-cotes - -For the ordinary pigeons that fly about the house and barn some open -cotes are shown in Fig. 7 and Fig. 8, but for the more valuable pigeons -a large wire enclosure should be made and the lodges placed within them, -unless the birds are very tame and will not leave the premises. - -In Fig. 7 A, a cote with three holes is shown that is easily made from -thin boards. It should measure thirty inches long, nine inches wide, and -twelve inches high at the back, while at the front the board with the -holes cut in it should be nine inches wide, with the holes five inches -high and four inches wide. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 -] - -The wood is put together as shown in Fig. 9, and the roof boards -overhang the ends and front for an inch or two. The upper ends of the -two divisions need not extend beyond the height of the front board, and -this open space will insure good ventilation. Sticks an inch square are -made fast under the ends of the cote, and on the projecting ends a ledge -three inches wide is fastened upon which the pigeons may alight. - -The cote shown in Fig. 7 B is made from a shoe-case divided as shown in -Fig. 10; on each floor the entrances are alternated from front to sides. -Outside each entrance a ledge three inches wide is supported on -brackets, and under the pitched roof the ninth compartment is arranged. - -The large pigeon-cote (Fig. 8) is a more pretentious affair to make and -will tax the young carpenter’s skill. This cote can be made a very -attractive pigeon shelter if it is carefully put together and nicely -painted. - -It is thirty-two inches long, twenty-four high to the eaves or -thirty-four to the peak, and twelve inches deep. It is divided as shown -in Fig. 11, and the ledges are supported with brackets cut from -half-inch wood with a compass saw. From the eaves to the peak the front -of the cote may be shingled, and above the peak a perch is erected. - -This cote may be attached to the side of a barn or supported on stout -uprights embedded securely in the ground. - - - Dog-kennels - -When building a dog-kennel the important features to bear in mind are to -make it strong, weather-proof, and large enough for a good-sized dog to -turn around in comfortably. A poorly built kennel soon falls apart, and -if it is not weather-proof rain will get in on the dog, and dogs do not -like to get wet while sleeping any more than boys. Moreover, if the -kennel is not large enough it is cramped and stuffy, and, while the dog -cannot say so, he resents it, and in his own dog way of reasoning feels -that he is imposed upon in being housed in such small quarters. The -dimensions of a kennel must be naturally governed by the size of the dog -who is to inhabit it; but for one of medium size, such as a setter or -collie, a kennel with a peaked roof, similar to the one shown in Fig. -12, should be three feet long, two feet wide, two feet high at the -sides, and three feet high from the ground to the peak or ridge-pole. - -The floor frame is the first thing in constructing a kennel, and it -should be made of two by three inch spruce, thirty-four inches long and -twenty-two inches wide, with lap joints at the corners as shown in Fig. -13. On this the flooring of tongue and grooved boards is laid and nailed -down. - -From three matched boards eight inches wide make the front and back to -the kennel as shown in Fig. 14. The lower ends of the boards are nailed -to the floor frame, and where they are sawed off to form the peak a -batten is placed at the inside and made fast with clinch nails driven -into it from the outside through the boards. - -The nail heads in the front of Fig. 14 will show the location of one -batten, and the other can clearly be seen at the inside of the back, -where the clinched nail ends are shown. - -Beginning at the bottom and working up, the sides are laid on. Always -place the tongue up and the groove down when using matched boards in a -horizontal position, as otherwise the rain and moisture will work into -the groove and cause the wood to decay. - -A ridge-pole is nailed between the front and back at the peak, and to -this the upper ends of the roof boards are fastened. - -In the front a hole large enough for a dog to pass through is cut with a -compass saw, and above it, near the peak, one large and three smaller -holes are bored, as shown in Fig. 14, and the wood cut away between the -holes, as shown in Fig. 12. This is for ventilation, for dogs as well as -human beings require plenty of fresh air. Another hole at the top of the -back board will allow free circulation of air across the top of the -kennel. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 -] - -Two or three good coats of paint will finish the wood-work, and with the -addition of a chain fastened to a staple-plate this dog-kennel will be -ready for occupancy. - -This dog-hut in Fig 15 is built against the side of a house or barn, and -is forty inches long, twenty-four wide, and twenty-eight inches high at -the outer side, and thirty-six inches high next the house or barn. The -floor frame is thirty-eight inches long, twenty-two inches wide, and -made like Fig. 13. Stakes are driven in the ground, one under each -corner, and to these the floor frame is spiked fast. - -When constructed against a building a strip is fastened to the siding of -the building on which to nail the roof boards and to the upper edges of -the front, back, and side boards battens are made fast to strengthen the -hut. - -The wall or side of the building may, in such a “lean-to,” be used as a -fourth side of the dog-hut. A ventilator is cut in the upper corner of -the back and at the front a swinging door can be hung in the doorway or -opening. This is a weather-door and is made an inch narrower on each -side than the width of the doorway. It is hung on screw-eyes and staples -so that it will act as a flap and can be pushed in or out by the dog -when entering or leaving the hut. In the winter-time, and when it is -raining, this door will keep out snow and water and also protect a dog -from strong winds. - - - Guinea-pig Houses - -When making houses or huts for guinea-pigs it will be necessary to make -at least one-third of the coop dark, or nearly so, as the little pigs -like darkened places in which to spend a portion of their time. - -The illustration of the guinea-pig house in Fig. 16 shows how this can -be done by partitioning off a portion of the house and making -ventilating holes or small windows near the top. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 16 - Fig. 17 -] - -A substantial double-decked house, similar to the one shown in the -illustration, should be thirty-six inches long, twenty-four inches wide, -twenty-four inches high to the roof eaves and thirty-two inches to the -peak. A small dry-goods case can be adapted to this use, and the floor -nailed in midway between the top and bottom. - -The darkened compartment is fourteen inches wide and extends up on both -floors. Holes three by four inches made in the sidings will permit the -pigs to have access to the open and closed compartments. A door at one -side is made high enough to open into both upper and lower compartments; -this is swung on hinges, and for safety it may be provided with a hasp -and padlock. - -The open compartments are to be screened with square-mesh galvanized -wire cloth substantially heavy to prevent the pigs escaping or dogs from -entering and molesting them. This wire cloth can be purchased at a -hardware store and attached to the wood with galvanized wire staples. - -A guinea-pig house should not be placed on the ground, but attached to -the tops of posts from twenty-four to thirty-six inches above the -ground. Locust posts about four inches in diameter are the best for this -purpose as they are tough and will not decay in the ground as quickly as -other wood. - -The guinea-pig hut shown in Fig. 17 has but one floor and it is much -longer than the house, the floor plan being forty-two inches long and -eighteen inches wide. The ends are fifteen inches high at the front, -twelve at the back, and eighteen at the peak. The dark compartment is -fifteen inches wide and the door at the front is six by eight inches, -hung on hinges and fastened with a hasp and padlock. - -At the front the roof extends over for six inches to shade the open -compartment, and at both ends and the back it overhangs about two -inches. - -This hut is held up on sticks implanted in the ground, and braced so -that the wind will not blow it over. - - - Chicken-coops - -In the spring-time when little chickens are hatched, and it is not -possible to let the hen wander about at random to scratch up the garden -or the flower beds, some small coops and shelters should be constructed -and placed in a corner of the back yard, or in some other vacant space, -where the little chicks can run without being molested by the larger -fowls, as they would be if put in the big chicken-coop or runway. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 18 - Fig. 19 -] - -The easiest coop to make is shown in the illustration of the young -chicken shelter (Fig. 18). It consists of a pitched roof mounted on -three boards six inches high. This shelter may be three feet wide and -two feet deep, and from the ground to the peak the distance is -twenty-four inches. Slats are nailed across the front to prevent the hen -from getting out, although not so close as to prevent the chicks from -squeezing through. A coat or two of paint will improve the appearance of -this shelter, and each mother-hen should be provided with a separate -coop for her family. - -In the illustration of the young chicken coop (Fig. 19) a little more -care is taken with the construction, and a canopy fly is arranged at the -front to keep off rain and to shade the interior of the coop. This coop -is three feet long, two feet wide, and thirty inches high at the front, -but at the back it need not be more than twenty-four inches high. - -It may be constructed from boards with matched edges, or perhaps from a -dry-goods case, and if it is raised from the ground an inch or two, and -a few holes bored in the bottom, it will insure a dry floor. The cross -rail at the bottom to which the upright slats are nailed is three inches -above the floor; and if made two inches wide and the slats one inch and -a half in width, they will be heavy enough to resist dogs and cats, if -they should try to disturb mother-hen and her brood. - -Outriggers may be nailed at each end so that about fifteen inches of the -wood projects beyond the sides. A strip of lath should be fastened -between the ends, and light canvas or muslin may then be tacked fast to -the roof and to the strip to serve as an awning. - - - Rabbit-hutches - -Among animal pets rabbits seem to be general favorites all over the -country, perhaps because they are such beautiful and harmless little -creatures and so prettily marked. They are worthy of a comfortable home, -and the boy who is fortunate enough to have some good rabbits should -take pleasure in building a substantial hutch in which they can live and -thrive. - -In Fig. 20 a double-floored rabbit-hutch is shown, and if it is made -large enough quite a family of rabbits can live in it, the larger ones -down-stairs and the smaller ones upstairs. An inclined plane will make -it possible for the friends and relatives to visit each other. - -This hutch should be from four to five feet long, twenty-four inches -wide, and twenty-four inches high. The second floor is arranged so that -it will be midway between the top and bottom, and at the rear an opening -five inches wide and ten inches long will receive an inclined board, -across which short sticks have been nailed to prevent the rabbits -slipping when going up or coming down the stairs. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 20 - Fig. 21 -] - -At one end a compartment is made eighteen inches wide, and provided with -a door six inches wide hung on hinges and fastened with a hasp and lock. -Openings five inches wide and six inches high are cut in the side of -this compartment, so that the rabbits may enter it from either floor. A -drop front, on hinges, will permit the hutch to be partially closed in -very severe weather, but when it is pleasant the front should be raised -and propped up with a stick, in the ends of which hooks are arranged -that will fit into screw-eyes driven into the lid and along the side of -the compartment, as shown in the illustration. - -In the end of the hutch, opposite the bottom of the stairway, a -feeding-doorway six inches square should be cut with a compass saw, and -a door hung on hinges. This hutch should be supported on stout sticks or -posts embedded in the ground for at least two feet, and it should be -thirty to forty inches above the ground. Across the open runs, -galvanized wire cloth, with half to three-quarter inch meshes, is to be -nailed fast with staples. With a few coats of paint on the outside, this -hutch will present a very good appearance. - -The rabbit-house (Fig. 21) is a large, one-story structure, in which a -family of rabbits can live very comfortably. It is thirty-six inches -long, twenty-four inches wide, eighteen inches high at the back and -twenty-two at the front. At one side a compartment is made twelve inches -wide, and at the outer side a door seven by nine inches is hung and -fastened with a lock. This house is supported on four posts, two or -three feet above the ground, and when painted it should look very -homelike to a rabbit’s eyes. - -A house of this same description, but larger, may be made for a monkey, -a fox, an opossum, a raccoon, or even for bear cubs. For the latter, -bars will have to be used instead of the wire cloth, for the bears would -soon tear away the lighter material. - - - Squirrel Cages - -For squirrels, chipmunks, and white rats very good cages can be made -from wire cloth, tin boxes, and wood, and in the illustration of a -squirrel cage (Fig. 22) a simple house is shown. - -To make it, a base-board is cut twenty-eight inches long, fifteen inches -wide, and one inch and a quarter thick. Ten inches from one end the -edges of the board are sawed off so that the end will be six inches -wide. Eleven inches from the small end a square piece of wood is mounted -on the base-board to form the back to the square compartment. This is -covered with tin on the inside, so that the rodents cannot gnaw the wood -away at the edges or about the hole that leads into the cylinder. - -A wedge-shaped piece of wood, six inches broad at the bottom and two -inches at the top, is attached to the small end of the base-board, and -from the top of this piece to the top of the back-board a connection -strip is nailed fast. From thick wire or quarter-inch iron rod a wicket -is made and driven into holes at the wide end of the board. It should be -the same size as the back-board, and is placed there to support the wire -cloth of which the cage is made. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 22 - Fig. 23 -] - -Small holes are made in the base-board with an awl, so that the ends of -the wire cloth will slip into them. When the edges of the cloth are -tacked to the back-board and wired to the wicket, the ends in the holes -will remain in place. - -A wire door made from the cloth can be hung on hinges, which should be -soldered to the galvanized cloth. With straight wires or wire cloth an -exercising cylinder can be made with wooden or tin ends. It is supported -between the back of the cage and the wedge-shaped upright. Tacks driven -around the hole that leads into the cylinder will prevent the occupants -from gnawing away the edges of the wood-work. - -The squirrel house (Fig. 23) is constructed in the same manner as the -cage, but it has the advantage of a covered shelter at one end of the -base-board. This is made from a tin cracker-box with the lid removed, -and inverted so the bottom acts as the roof. In one side an oval opening -is cut and a wire screen is fastened to it at the inside. - -The wire cylinder is seven inches in diameter and twelve inches long, -quite large enough for two squirrels to run a great race at the same -time. A piece of hair felt, an old woollen cloth, or some curled hair -will be comfortable for the squirrels to lie on in the enclosed cage. - - - Reptile Pens - -In some parts of the country pets are made of reptiles, and very -interesting and tame ones are found among the lizard family. - -When making a reptile pen, care should be taken to get the joints tight -and not have any small openings or cracks between boards, for snakes can -get through a very small space, often much smaller than you would think -it possible, judging from the size of their bodies. - -In Fig. 24, the design for a very substantial reptile pen is shown, and -instead of fine wire screening, two heavy plates of glass may be used at -the front of each compartment. This is a double pen, and one side can be -used for snakes, while the other may harbor some lizards or small -land-turtles. - -This pen is forty-eight inches long, twenty-four deep, and twenty-six -high. The bottom rail at the front is four inches wide, and the top and -upright ones are two inches wide. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 24 - Fig. 25 -] - -The wood from which the pen is made should be tongue-and-grooved, and -planed on both sides. It may be from three-quarters to one inch and a -quarter thick, and narrow boards are preferable to wide ones. - -In the lizard compartment an upper floor is fastened in, having an -opening at one side where an inclined board, with cross sticks attached, -is arranged so that the animals may climb up and down. - -The snake pen should have a portion of a small tree fastened at top and -bottom, on which the reptiles may climb and coil. The more short -branches it has, the better, for it will then give the snakes a more -satisfactory perch to move about on. At the bottom of each end a small -trap doorway four inches high and six inches long is cut, and protected -by a stout wire-cloth door, hinged and locked. These trap-doors are for -the purpose of removing refuse or for feeding the reptiles; or a smaller -opening at the back, near the top, and about two inches in diameter, can -be used as a food door. - -A ventilator is cut in the roof twelve inches long and six inches wide, -so that each compartment gets the advantage of an opening about six -inches square. Over this a roof is made three inches above the main -roof, and with stout wire cloth the opening is covered first at the -under side. Then the strip of wire cloth, four inches wide, is tacked -around the inside of the opening and to a board the same size as the -hole, or six by twelve inches, attached to the under side of the cap. - -This arrangement is more clearly shown in Fig. 25, which is a sectional -view, A being the cap, B the board to which the upper edge of the wire -cloth is attached, C the wire cloth, and D the main roof to the pen. The -line E represents the wire cloth tacked to the under side of the -opening, to prevent the reptiles crawling up and over the partition. - -At the lower end of the partition an opening four inches square may be -made and fitted with a wire-netting door that can be raised and lowered -by a rod that extends through the cap of the ventilator. One or two -staples driven over the rod at the inside of the reptile pen will -prevent the rod from bending, and the wire door should slide on runners -provided with a rabbet at the inside, so that it cannot be dislodged. - -With this construction, the reptiles may be allowed to mingle if they -are peaceable, but if the snakes molest the small lizards they must be -driven into their own side and the trap-door closed. With the outer -doors at the bottom and the ventilator at the top, a free circulation of -air can be had; and if the floor is kept well sanded and clean, this -reptile pen will make a comfortable home for a collection of such pets. - -[Illustration: Fig. 26] - -The lizard run shown in Fig. 26 is made from a wooden shoe-case open at -the front, and on top of which a smaller box is mounted and connected -with the lower one by means of an inclined board and an opening, through -which the lizards can crawl. A ventilator is cut in the upper box and -covered with wire netting; and in the lower box, at one end, a doorway -is made, four by six inches, and protected by a heavy wire screen door -on hinges. - -A raised platform and ladder is made at one end of the large box, and in -the open space one or two branches should be made fast on which the -lizards can climb. - -The top of the box should be enclosed with wire netting, as shown in the -illustration. A doorway three inches square cut in the side of the upper -box will allow access to this roof-garden. - -A few coats of dark-green paint will finish these reptile pens on the -outside, and they should be enamelled cream color, buff, or light green -on the inside, so that the reptiles may be seen against the light -background. - - - - - Chapter III - - SUMMER-HOUSES AND PERGOLAS - - - A Simple Summer-house - -For the back yard, or in the fields and woods near the house, a -summer-house or pergola will be found a comfortable nook in which to -spend many pleasant hours. - -A simple summer-house is shown in the illustration, Fig. 1. This is made -of four posts, has a shingled roof, and is provided with seats on three -sides. Obtain four spruce posts four inches square, or four tree-trunks -from four to six inches in diameter. Plant them in the ground, forming a -square of six feet. The posts should be embedded for at least two feet, -and, to insure them from decaying too quickly, tar or pitch the bottoms, -or give them two or three good coats of asphaltum varnish. The posts -should stand seven feet above ground. Across the tops of the posts nail -two-by-four-inch joist, with lap joints as shown at A in Fig. 2. With -four more pieces of joist form the roof rafters, cutting a notch in each -joist where it fits over the corners at the head of the posts. At the -peak, the joist are bevelled where they meet. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 -] - -Join two of the pieces at first; then lap the remaining two on both -sides of them, nailing all the ends securely with steel wire nails. Put -one middle rafter in on each side between eaves to the roof. It would -not look well to have to roof the corner ones; then nail shingle lath or -scantling on the four sides to receive the shingles. The rafters should -overhang the top frame about twelve inches, so as to form the stop on a -line with the posts. Begin at the bottom and at the middle of each side -to shingle the roof, working out to the corners and up through the -middle to the peak. To prevent the roof leaking at the corners, bevel -the shingles at one side, then lap those on the other side over them and -bevel the edges. Some builders lay a strip of tin flashing over the -edges as well as in the valleys of a roof to insure a perfectly -water-tight joint. Use galvanized nails. To hide the rough rafters and -shingle lath, the inside of the roof may be lined with narrow, matched -boards; then the wood-work may be given a coat or two of paint in some -desirable color. - - - A Back-yard Pergola - -A back-yard pergola is constructed from two upright posts four inches -square, a cross beam two by six inches, and eight joists laid across -from the post bar to the top of the back fence. This style of pergola is -particularly adapted to city yards and those surrounded by a board -fence. In the event of there being no fence, the ends of the joist or -roofing beams may bear on a two-by-six-inch cross bar that rests on two -more posts corresponding with the front ones. - -The posts are four inches square, of spruce or any other available wood, -and are planed on all four sides. They are embedded in the ground for -about two feet, and, to prevent them from sinking or shifting, place a -large, flat stone in the hole on which the post will rest, and around it -pack earth and stones instead of earth only. A lap cut in the front top -end of the post will admit the two-by-six-inch cross beam. The posts are -seven feet apart, and the cross beam ten feet long, with the ends cut as -shown in Fig. 3 on page 56. The front end of each joist is rounded under -as shown, and to make a more secure anchorage a notch two inches long -and an inch deep may be cut at the under side of each joist, so that -they will fit down over the upper edge of the cross beam. Make all the -joints and laps fast with steel wire nails; then give the wood-work a -few coats of paint. - -Seats may be built in on two sides and supported with under braces or -brackets to prop up the front edge, and a back-board may be nailed fast -to the posts and fence. - - - A Toadstool Tree Canopy - -Where there is a large tree on the place or near the house, a toadstool -canopy (Fig. 4) may be constructed above a comfortable seat. The framing -of the canopy is shown in Fig. 5, where the arrangement of corner -rafters and braces can be clearly seen. The tree end of each rafter is -bevelled (or cut on a slant) and nailed fast with steel wire nails. The -under braces are keyed to the tree by cutting out a wedge of the bark, -so that the lower end or point of the bracket will fit into it. These -ends are to be well nailed to the tree-trunk, as they are the main props -to hold up the roof. Between the corner rafters let one rafter in on -each side; then nail shingle lath on the top of the rafters, and to -these the shingles are fastened. - -A seat eighteen inches wide may be built about the foot of the trunk and -supported by two-by-three-inch joist let into the ground a foot or -eighteen inches. Instead of shingling this roof, it may be thatched with -salt hay arranged in flat tufts and nailed onto the lath. Begin at the -lower edge to do this and thatch one line first; then begin on the end -of the line above it and arrange the tufts closely side by side, and -nail them fast. The last line at the top should have tar paper under it, -closely fitted, and nailed to the tree trunk with copper tacks and -painted. This will deflect the water and prevent it from running down -the trunk and wetting the seat. - - - A Rustic Pergola - -A simple but effective and useful rustic pergola is shown in Fig. 6. All -the posts, cross-pieces, braces, and stringers at the top are of -undressed wood, having the bark on. The corner posts are from four to -six inches in diameter, and are embedded two feet in the ground. They -are seven feet above the ground, and on top of two sets cross-stringers -are made fast and braced with angle brackets. A sharp hatchet, a saw, -and a hammer will be the only tools required for this work; and where an -angle piece is attached to a post, the bark and wood should be cut away -on the post, so that the bevelled edge of the bracket will lie snugly -against it. It should then be nailed fast with long steel wire nails. -This pergola can be made of almost any size, but for one of moderate -proportions it should measure eight feet square and seven feet high. -Seats of smooth boards may be arranged on three sides between posts, and -wires may be run up and down and crosswise, on which climbing vines may -be supported. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 -] - - - A Circular Pergola - -A circular pergola will present a pleasing appearance in any yard. It is -made from six rustic posts, six supporting beams, and eleven top -rafters, as shown in Fig. 7. - -Tree-trunks of the proper size and length may be cut in the woods, or -some locust posts can be purchased at a lumber-yard. The bark is to be -left on, and the posts are to be planted two feet in the ground in a -circle eight feet in diameter. The tops of the posts should be sawed off -so that they are all an equal distance from the ground. On top of them -nail six pieces of joist, two by four inches, with the narrower side -resting on the posts. - -The joist must be bevelled or mitred so that they will fit snugly at the -posts. Spike them fast to each other and to the posts with large steel -wire nails. The top rafters should be of two-by-three or two-by-four -inch spruce, planed or left rough, and arranged equal distances apart, -so that they will form a large circle on the supporting beams. These are -to be nailed fast and painted if desired. Vines may be planted close to -the posts, so that as they grow the thick mass of foliage will make a -shady top to the pergola. - -If desired, a few seats may be arranged between the posts or columns, -but portable seats would be more in keeping with this style of pergola. - - - A Summer Shelter - -A design for a comfortable summer-house is shown in Fig. 8. The posts -are set on an oblong, seven feet wide and twelve feet long. Seven or -eight inch posts are planted in the ground, and the top rails are -arranged as shown in Fig. 2. The rails can be of two-by-four-inch joist, -and should be cut and neatly lapped at the ends, as shown at A in Fig. -2. A ridge-pole forms the centre support to this roof, and from it the -rafters are run down to the top rails. Over these the shingle lath are -nailed, and then the thatching of salt hay or shingles may be laid on. A -wind-speeder and a weather-vane may be arranged at either end of the -roof, as shown in the drawing, and seats may be built in between the end -posts, with a supporting rib at the middle and braces under the seats. -There is room enough under this roof to swing a hammock. - - - - - Chapter IV - - WEATHER-VANES AND WINDMILLS - - -From the time of the earliest habitation of the earth, nature’s great -forces, wind and water, have been employed to furnish power for man’s -uses. Wind engines and mills for motive power have become almost -obsolete in and about the great cities, as they are so cumbersome and -uncertain, but in the country they are still used to a great extent for -pumping water, milling, and operating light machinery. - -Windmills have been made in a number of shapes by the people of -different nations, and some of them are very picturesque, especially the -Dutch wheels and those made in the eastern part of the United States a -century or more ago, many of which are still working. - -Windmills will never go out of use entirely, no matter what cheap motive -power will eventually run the world; for when they are once set up -properly they cost nothing to operate, and if a wheel is well made it -will last for years with but trifling cost for repairs. - -Windmills, weather-vanes, pinion-wheels, and wind toys of all -descriptions have been made by boys in every age, and each generation -goes on to invent or think of something new for the same old wind to -play with that has toyed with the world’s wheels for centuries. The -illustrations and descriptions on this and the following pages will be -found helpful in the construction of wind machinery that shall be both -novel and practicable. - - - A Pinion-wheel Weather-vane - -The easiest sort of a pinion-wheel and weather-vane to construct is -shown in Fig. 1. It consists of a piece of stout tin or sheet-iron, a -wooden shaft twenty inches long, and a fan-tail twelve inches long and -seven inches wide at the rear end. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 -] - -Punch a small hole in the centre of a sheet of tin or iron not less than -ten inches square, and with a lead-pencil compass draw a circle ten -inches in diameter. Half an inch inside of this draw another one nine -inches in diameter, as indicated by the light lines in Fig. 2. One inch -from the centre draw a third circle making it two inches in diameter; -then divide the disk into eight equal parts. - -With a cold chisel cut on the lines, as indicated in Fig. 2, and bend -the metal ears as shown in drawing No. 1, so that the corners will set -back an inch from the rim. With a stout pair of shears cut around the -outside line and free the wheel from the sheet of metal. - -At the front of the wheel fasten a spool with steel wire nails driven -through the tin to act as a hub. Then give them both a coat or two of -paint. - -Make a shaft from hard wood an inch square, and cut it in from one end -about ten inches, as shown in Fig. 3. At the other end bind the wood for -an inch or two with linen line or fine wire to prevent its splitting, -and bore a hole in the end with an awl. Through the spool and disk, and -into the hole in the shaft, drive a flat-headed steel wire nail or a -screw, three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, to act as the pinion on -which the wheel may revolve. - -From light wood, three-eighths of an inch in thickness, cut a fan-tail -seven inches wide at one end and two at the other, and, having passed it -through the cut in the shaft, make it fast with small nails or screws. - -Balance the shaft and wheel on your finger to determine where to pierce -the hole through which the upright shaft on the pole should pass; then -bore it out with bit and brace so that the shaft will fit snug but not -tight. - -To the top of the shaft, over the hole, attach another spool, so as to -form a longer bearing; or a strap of metal may be tacked so that it will -bridge up over the hole about two inches. In this bridge a corresponding -hole may be cut, through which the vertical shaft or pin will pass. This -is to hold the vane steady on the long pin of quarter-inch round iron -driven into the top of the pole, and prevent it from dipping forward or -backward. - -Place this vane on a shed, the end of a barn roof, or on a high pole -where the wind has free access to it. - - - A Wind-speeder - -Wind-speeders may be constructed of metal or partly of wood, but one -that can easily be made by a boy consists of two sticks, four ordinary -tin funnels having their ends stopped up with a plug of wood, and a -pole, into the end of which a long iron pin is driven and on which the -hub revolves. Fig. 4. - -Two hard-wood sticks thirty inches long and three-quarters of an inch -square are cut at the middle so that they will lap, and with steel nails -they are attached to a hub three-quarters of an inch thick and three -inches in diameter, in the centre of which a quarter-inch hole is bored. -The end of each stick or arm is cut in to receive the funnels, and they -are held in place by straps of tin passed around each neck and tacked -fast to the top and bottom of the cross sticks. - -With a sharp-pointed awl or punch a small hole is made through the strap -and neck, and a long, slim steel nail is driven through both into the -end of the sticks to give the funnels an additional purchase. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 -] - -To reduce the friction and to prevent the wood from wearing away at the -under side of the hub, a large flat washer should be attached to the -wood with copper tacks driven closely all around the outer edge. Before -the speeder is slipped over the upright pin, a short piece of small -gas-pipe or tubing should be placed over it so it will rest between the -hub and the top of the pole. Two coats of white or light-colored paint -will improve the appearance of this speeder. - - - The Arrow Weather-vane - -Of all the weather-vanes that have ever been made, the balanced arrow is -undoubtedly the oldest and most popular; it is the universal type of its -class, and, from the simple arrow that a boy can whittle from a shingle -to the beautifully gilded vane that crowns the pinnacle of some great -building, it is everywhere in evidence. Fig. 5. - -The arrow-vane can be made any length to suit the height at which it may -be placed, but for the house, barn, flag-pole, or tower not more than -fifty or sixty feet high, it should be from twenty-four to thirty-six -inches long, with the blade from five to six inches in width. - -The most substantial vane is made in three pieces, the point, shaft, and -blade. The shaft is made from hard wood, three-quarters of an inch -square, in the ends of which cuts are made to receive a tin or -sheet-metal point and blade. These are held in place with steel nails -driven through the wood and clinched on the opposite side. The arrow is -balanced and a hole is then made in the shaft through which the upright -pin or rod will pass. - -A ferule or ring is driven on the upright rod to hold the arrow in the -proper place, and below it two rods should be arranged at right angles, -at the ends of which the letters N, E, S, W are soldered. These rods may -be of brass or wood, and if the wood is used it should be of hickory or -locust, half an inch square or round, and slit at the ends to receive -the letters of tin or sheet metal. These latter are held in place with -slim steel wire nails driven through the wood and metal. - -At the top of a flag-pole these arms should be mounted above a gilded -ball, and they should be, if of brass or copper, held securely in place -with wire or solder. If they are of iron, it would be well to have a -blacksmith weld them, so that they will be rigid and stay in place. - - - Wooden Vanes - -In Fig. 6 some suggestions for wooden vanes are shown that can be -followed with the scroll saw and jackknife or a compass saw and carving -chisels. These vanes can be made in almost any size that will not be out -of proportion to the building or pole they are to be mounted on. - -The fish is cut from wood five-eighths of an inch thick, and all around -the edges the wood is bevelled so as to give the fish a rounded effect. -The fish is balanced on the edge of a piece of wood to determine where -the rod will pass through it; then with a quarter-inch bit the hole is -carefully bored through from top to bottom. The compass-point letters -can be made from sheet tin and supported on two cross sticks and a stout -wire hoop from twelve to fifteen inches in diameter. - -The lady with the parasol is cut from wood half an inch in thickness. -She is fifteen inches high and twelve inches wide across the bottom of -the skirt. From the shoes to the hat, a quarter-inch hole is bored -entirely through the body, but if this be found too difficult, a staple -at the top and bottom will answer instead. Through these staples the rod -will pass. - -The squirrel is made in the same manner as the lady, and either balanced -on the rod which passes through the body or by means of staples driven -at one side. A ring and washer should be provided on the rod for the -bottom of the vane to rest on, as there would be too much friction if -the vane rested on the top end of the pole into which the rod is driven. - -The bird vane is cut out and balanced the same as the fish, and the -modelling may be carved in the wood or painted, to give shape and -character to the vane. Otherwise it would be but a blank piece of thin -board cut in the shape of the outline. - -In all of these vanes it is necessary, of course, to have the greatest -overhang on the side opposite to that facing the wind, otherwise they -would not indicate properly. - - - A Wind-pennant - -An excellent and reliable wind indicator is shown in Fig. 7, the -illustration of the wind-pennant. It consists of a metal hoop on which a -funnel-shaped silk or cotton fabric pennant is sewed fast, and when this -latter is filled by a breeze it stands out, as the illustration shows. - -A pennant fifteen inches long should have a hoop five inches in -diameter, and it can be made either from wire rings bent as shown in -Fig. 8 A, or from sheet metal, as shown at Fig. 8 B. - -The sheet metal should be perforated with small holes all around one -edge to pass the thread through, when sewing the fabric fast, and the -edges should be smoothed so as not to cut the threads. If the hoop is -made of wire, a ring should be formed at top and bottom for the upright -rod to pass through; but if it is of sheet metal a hole at the top and -bottom will admit the rod. - -This pennant is very useful at the mast-head of a boat, and is much more -satisfactory to watch than the perpetually bobbing flat pennant, as it -does not break or fall down unless it is calm, and only shifts from side -to side as the wind blows it. - -On a flag-pole or staff above the pennant the compass points are -arranged, and if these are made from copper or brass, the letters may be -soldered fast to the ends of the arms. Where the arms cross, they are to -be flattened as shown in Fig. 9 A, and lapped together, as shown in Fig. -9 B. After the hole is bored they should be bound to the upright rod -with copper wire and soldered so they will remain in a fixed position -that the wind cannot alter. Fig. 9 C. - -Sticks of hard wood may be substituted for the metal arms, and the -sheet-metal letters let into saw cuts made at the outer ends. - - - A Basket-ball Vane - -An odd wind indicator is shown in Fig. 10, illustrating a ball vane in a -basket. It consists of a flat basket, with a rim six inches high, made -of wire cloth with square meshes; inside of this a silk or cotton -covered ball of wire is placed and blown by the wind from one side to -the other of the basket. Of course, the direction the wind is coming -from is opposite to that taken by the ball. - -The basket should be twenty-four inches in diameter, six inches high, -and supported at the top of a pole by wires attached from the upper and -lower edge of the outer rim, and leading up and down to the pole, the -ends being made fast to staples or screw-eyes. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 -] - -The ball, which is made of wire hoops and fastened together with fine -wires, should be from four to six inches in diameter. It is covered with -silk or thin muslin sewed on in the same manner in which a baseball is -covered with leather. The framework must be of light spring brass or -copper wire, and where the hoops cross it would be well to touch the -unions with solder to insure a firm joint and make the ball rigid. - -If the ball should blow out of the basket at any time, it may be -necessary to lace wires across the outer rim at the top, so as to form a -confining net-work. - -Above the basket the compass points can be arranged on wood or metal -arms, and when complete and mounted this weather-vane will present a -most unique appearance. - - - A Merry-go-round - -A merry-go-round like the one shown in Fig. 11 is an interesting wind -toy and pleasing to watch, as the boats keep sailing round and round. It -is made from a child’s hoople properly braced with cross sticks and -mounted on a hub. Four flat-boats are made and attached to the outer -edge of the frame. When rigged with sails and placed at the top of a -post, on a rod, the boats will keep up a continual sailing so long as -there is any breeze. A hoople three feet in diameter is best for this -purpose, as it gives more space between the boats. - -Double sets of braces or cross strips are arranged inside the hoople, -and, where they meet at the middle, laps are cut in the sticks so that -they will fit flush, as shown in Fig. 12. - -The sticks are placed seven inches apart, and are five-eighths of an -inch square; under the lap joints a plate of wood nine inches square is -attached by means of screws or steel wire nails, to strengthen the -unions of the cross sticks as well as to make a platform, at the under -side of which the hub is arranged. A plan of the hoople, the cross -sticks, and the location of one boat is shown in Fig. 13. - -The boats are placed so that the outer edges of the bottoms rest on the -top of the hoople. The inner edges rest on two of the cross sticks, -where they are securely attached with long, slim screws passed up -through the sticks and hoople and into the bottoms of the boats. - -A block of wood four or five inches square and six inches long is to be -shaved down at one end so that it is round and about one inch and a half -in diameter. This is attached to the under side of the plate, at the -middle of the hoople frame, so that the small end projects down; and -through it a half-inch hole is bored. - -An iron pin half an inch in thickness and eighteen inches long is to be -driven into the upper end of a post over which the hub and hoople frame -will fit. The upper end of the iron pin is threaded and provided with -two nuts. One of these should be screwed down tight on the other with a -washer between to act as a lock-nut, so that the revolution of the -merry-go-round will not tighten or loosen them when once adjusted. - -The boats are ten inches long and three inches wide at the middle, but -they taper fore and aft, as shown in Fig. 13 A. They are cut from pine -or white-wood two inches thick, and painted in gay colors. The masts are -fifteen inches high, and the sails are provided with booms, gaffs, and -jib-booms, also with rings which hold the sails close to the masts. The -rigging is of copper wire, as the constant motion would soon wear out -string or line and the sails would fly loose. - -Each boat must be in good trim to keep the motion uniform, and if the -sails wear out too soon, tin ones should be made or the muslin ones may -be given a coat or two of white paint. Pennants at the tops of the masts -will add to the effect. - - - A Wind Turbine - -The wind turbine shown in Fig. 14, on the following page, is made of two -hooples about thirty inches in diameter, four cross sticks, two wire -hoops, and eight V-shaped tin blades. - -The cross sticks, thirty inches long, are cut and lapped at the middle -and attached to the edge of each hoop with screws or nails. The wire -hoops are twenty-two inches in diameter, and are fastened to the cross -sticks with staples. The plan of one hoople and the cross sticks, the -wire hoop and the location of the blades, is shown in Fig. 15. - -The outer corners of each blade are tacked fast to both the upper and -lower hoople, while the inner corners are wired fast to the stout wire -hoop. The blades are made from tin or sheet iron twelve inches long and -six inches wide, and, when bent in the shape of a V, the width across -the open end should be four inches. - -The blades are depended upon to hold the upper and lower frames in -place, and when the turbine is on the top of a post with a rod running -through the middle of the cross sticks, around which it revolves, the -wind will keep it spinning at a high speed. - -Power can be developed with this turbine, but only a very small -percentage as compared with a windmill the entire surface of which is -continually exposed to the breeze. In the turbine only two or three of -the blades are effective at any one time. - - - A Barrel-hoop Pinion-wheel - -From a flat hoop, a few pieces of tin or sheet iron, and some thin wood, -a barrel-hoop pinion-wheel may be made similar to the one shown in Fig. -16. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 - Fig. 17 -] - -The barrel-hoop will measure about twenty-one inches in diameter, and -the hub should be made five inches in diameter, two inches thick, and -cut in, as shown in Fig. 17 A, with nine places to receive the small -ends of the metal blades. The hub revolves on a pin which is driven into -a block of wood three inches square, as shown at Fig. 17 B. A hole is -made in the block from top to bottom, through which a half-inch rod will -pass. The rails that support the tail are let into each side of the -block and are securely fastened with screws, as shown also at Fig. 17 B. - -The fan-tails are twenty-four inches long, one inch and a half wide, and -half an inch thick, made of ash or hickory that will bend easily, so as -to be drawn in against the blades forming the tail. - -The tin blades are cut five inches wide at one end and one inch and a -half at the other, and fastened to both the hoop and hub with tacks, as -shown in the illustration. - -The blades forming the fan are of half-inch wood, one V-shaped piece and -two end slats cut as shown in the illustration. They are all held in -position by the two rails that extend back from the pinion block and two -that are set at right angles to them, and which hold the upper and lower -edge blades. - -This wheel may be placed at the top of a post two or three inches square -or round, in which a half-inch iron rod or long pin has been driven, -leaving about six or eight inches of it projecting above the top of the -post. On this the block turns as the wind acts on the fan-tail. - - - A Pumping Windmill - -A simple wheel, with spokes and sails, that is commonly employed on -canal-boats and barges, and in a small way for raising water in a -suction-pump, is shown in the illustration of a pumping windmill. Fig. -18. - -[Illustration: Fig. 18] - -It consists of a hub, six spokes, a fan-tail, and a trunk or upright to -which the wheel is attached. The hub is a hexagon of six inches and six -inches long, so that one spoke can be driven into a hole made in each -side, as shown in Fig. 19. The spokes are three feet long, three by one -inch and a half at the hub end, and one by one inch and a half at the -outer end. They are driven snugly into holes in the hub three inches -long and one inch and a half wide, and pinned to hold them in place. - -The hub should be made of hard wood, and it would be well to have a -blacksmith put a thin iron band around each end to prevent it from -splitting. The holes may be cut with a mortise chisel and mallet, and -care must be taken to shape them evenly, so that the spokes will line -properly. - -Triangular pieces of twilled muslin sheeting are tacked to the face of -each spoke, and the loose corner of each is caught to the next spoke end -with a rope and snap. This makes an outlet between the leech and spoke -of each space between spokes for the wind to pass through, thereby -causing the wheel to revolve. - -The wheel is held in place to the head of the supporting post by a shaft -which passes through the hub and is bolted fast at the front of it with -a nut. A blacksmith will make this shaft, as it is somewhat beyond a -boy’s ability unless he has had some experience in blacksmithing. It -should be shaped as shown in Fig. 20. - -The shaft is an inch square where it passes through the hub, and at the -front end it is threaded and provided with a nut and washer. At the end -of the square part, A, where the rear of the hub will stop, a shoulder, -B, should be welded on to hold the hub in the proper place. - -An inch beyond this square shoulder, another one, C, is welded on the -shaft, which for the balance of its length is three-quarters of an inch -in diameter. - -Just beyond the shoulder or collar, C, the crank is formed, two inches -wide and three inches out from the shaft. Beyond the crank another -collar, C C, is welded on, and beyond this the shaft should measure six -inches in length. - -The total length of the shaft is fifteen inches, and all the collars and -smooth surfaces should be dressed down with a file and then painted. The -head to which the fan-tail is attached is made of two blocks, cut as -shown in Fig. 21, and fastened five inches apart on the lower rails that -support the long rails to which, in turn, the tail is attached. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 19 - Fig. 20 - Fig. 21 - Fig. 22 - Fig. 23 -] - -The upper ends of the blocks are cut out so as to admit the shaft. The -collars, C, and C C, are at the inside of the blocks. To hold the shaft -in place, straps of iron are screwed fast over the top of each block. - -This head rests on the top of a trunk or hollow square post, through -which the rod passes that connects the crank with the piston-rod of a -pump. This trunk is of three-quarter-inch wood and seven inches square, -as shown in Fig. 22 A; and at the top of it a flat iron collar, B, is -screwed fast. - -To hold the head on and keep it in the proper place, four iron cleats -(Fig. 22 C) are screwed fast to the under corners of the head to grip -the projecting edge of the collar. This arrangement will hold the head -stiff, but will allow it to move about as impelled by the wind acting on -the tail. - -A little grease or vaseline should be placed on top of the collar, so -that the head will move on it easily. The top of the connection rod -should be attached to the crank, as shown in Fig. 22 D, where a strap of -iron passes over the crank and is bolted to the top of the hard-wood -rod. - -The tail is attached to the head as shown in Fig. 23, which is a rear -view of the head block and a portion of the forward part of the tail. - -The tail is thirty-three inches long and twenty-four inches wide at the -rear end, and is made of boards three-quarters of an inch in thickness. -If the mill is to be placed over a pump, a platform should be erected to -which the trunk may be braced with props, as shown in the illustration, -and on which the lower end of the trunk may rest. - -Guy rods or wires can also be carried from the upper part of the trunk -down to pegs driven in the ground, which will lend additional support -and steadiness to the upright shaft. To start the wheel, snap the ends -of the sheets to the spoke ends; to stop it, unsnap the ends and furl -the sails around the spokes, and tie them securely with a cotton cord. - - - A Windmill and Tower - -Windmills, of course, can be put to many different uses and are -generally of sufficient size to develop a considerable amount of power. -Fig. 24 shows a windmill and tower that any smart boy can make of wood, -an old buggy wheel, and a few iron fittings that a blacksmith will make -at a nominal cost. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 24 - Fig. 25 - Fig. 26 -] - -The tower is the first thing to make, and it should be constructed of -four spruce sticks sixteen feet long and four inches square, thirty -inches square at the top and seventy-two inches square at the base. - -The deck is thirty-six inches square, and projects two inches over the -top rails all around. The rails and cross braces are of spruce or pine -strips four inches wide and seven-eighths of an inch thick, and are -attached to the corner posts with steel wire nails. The corner posts are -embedded two feet in the ground, leaving fourteen feet of tower above -the surface. The rail at the bottom, attached to the four posts, is -three feet above the ground, and, midway between this and the top rail -under the deck, the middle rail is run around the posts. - -The cross braces are bevelled at the ends, so that they will fit snugly -against the corner posts and in behind the rails where they are securely -nailed to both posts and rails. - -One of the posts with its binding of rails and cross brace is shown in -Fig. 25, and this clearly illustrates how the union is made. - -The posts, rails, and braces are all to be planed, so that they will -present a good appearance when painted; and at one side of the tower a -ladder can be made of scantling, and the lower end of it attached to a -rail nailed to the corner posts a few inches above the ground. - -Across two of the rails half-way up the tower a board is nailed, to -which the lower end of a trunk is made fast, if a wheel similar to the -pumping-mill is to be used. But if a wooden mill is desired, it can be -constructed from a buggy-wheel and six blades of wood, to appear as -shown in the illustration. - -At a wagon-shop an old wheel can be had for little or nothing, and with -a little work it may be converted into the frame of a windmill. - -Each spoke is to be cut at an angle on one side so that the blades, when -attached to them, will have the necessary pitch to make the wind act on -them. This can be seen in Fig. 26, which is an edge view of the wheel -showing a top, bottom, and middle blade. - -The blades are eighteen inches long, twelve inches wide at the outer -end, and six inches in width next the hub. They are three-quarters of an -inch thick, and are attached to the spokes with screws. If it is found -necessary, a wire can be run from the outer end of each blade to the end -of the next spoke, to steady the blades, as shown in the illustration. - -The crank and shaft can be arranged as described for the pumping-mill, -and a fan-tail to keep the wheel up into the wind is made in proportion -to the size of the mill. - -All the wood-work should be painted to give it a good appearance. A mill -of this size will develop at least quarter of a horse-power in a -fifteen-mile breeze. - - - - - Chapter V - - AËRIAL TOYS - - - The Elastic Flying-machine - -To have a flying-machine is the dream of every boy. To build a large one -is exceedingly difficult, but a small one run by a rubber band can be -easily constructed. You will not be able to fly up to the roofs of -houses and spires of churches, but it will furnish you much amusement, -without the danger of a broken neck. - -I will tell you exactly how I constructed one of these machines, and -then you can make one for yourself. The backbone was a knitting-needle. -The wings, or more properly aëroplanes, were light bamboo strips (taken -from a Japanese fan) and covered with the Japanese paper which is used -for napkins. (Fig. 1.) - -Fig. 2 shows the backbone and its parts. Cut from thin brass or copper a -piece shaped like No. 1, and bend the top over, as shown at No. 2. Brass -suitable for this may be bought at any hardware-store, or an old article -made of proper metal may be cut up. The shell of a metallic cartridge is -excellent. The brass should be as thin as possible, to be light, and so -that it may be cut with an old pair of shears and bent easily. First cut -the piece out roughly with the shears, and then trim it into shape with -a small file. Scrape that part of the metal bright and clean which will -form the inside of the roll, and then bend it around the needle so that -it will fit nicely and snugly. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 -] - -This must be fastened to the forward end of the backbone. The best and -lightest way is to braze it, as the tinsmiths call it. File the polish -from the end of the needle, and wet it with soldering fluid, which may -be bought at a tinner’s, or made by adding zinc to muriatic acid until -no more is dissolved. Slip on the brass support just where you want it, -and lay on a piece of solder about half the size of a grain of wheat. -Now hold this in the flame of a candle, in the gas, or near a hot stove, -until the solder melts. Take it away and let it cool, and you will find -that the solder has run into all the cracks and joined the pieces -beautifully. File off any excess of solder or rough ends, and you will -have a neat and workman-like joint, as well as a very light one. - -Cut out the piece No. 3, and bend it into the shape shown at No. 4. In -this case you will need to file the upper surface of the groove bright -and clean. Take off the polish from the other end of the needle, and -then put the stern-post, as it may be called, in place, and hold it -there by twisting a fine wire around it and the needle. Be careful to -get both supports turned the same way. Then braze and finish it as -before. - -Make the piece No. 5, and form it into the shape No. 6. This is fastened -by brazing to the backbone, as shown in the lower diagram. Take a piece -of another knitting-needle, and make a shaft like No. 7 by heating -red-hot and pounding the end into a hook with a small hammer. - -Put the straight end of this shaft through the hole in the stern-post -which was formed by bending the metal, and then make a shoulder on it, -as follows: bend a piece of fine wire into a ring the size of the -needle, and braze this to the shaft about a quarter-inch from the -stern-post. This ring of wire keeps the shaft from slipping through the -hole when the rubber is stretched. File a flat point on the straight end -of the shaft. - -Next make the wings. For the ribs I used the thin bamboo strips taken -from a Japanese fan. The paper is pulled or soaked off, and the thin -strips cut close to the handle. The front of the wings is made as in the -upper diagram of Fig. 3. Take one of the largest and stiffest strips of -the bamboo, find the exact middle, and lay it evenly across the -wing-support (No. 6 in Fig. 2), which is already in place on the -backbone. Lash it to the support with waxed sewing-silk. Over this piece -lay two others of equal length, making them come together (but not lap -over) just above the backbone. When well secured, add three pieces of -the same length above the two, placing them in such a way that the -joinings shall not come over the joinings of either of the other pieces, -and thus weaken the wings. - -The ribs are made from the bamboo strips, cut the proper length and -lashed to the front edge. The other ends are fastened to a cross-rib to -make them take the same curvature. The lower diagram of Fig. 3 shows how -the ribs are spaced. - -Cover the wings with thin, strong paper. The best is Japanese paper, -such as is used in making napkins. This is exceedingly light and very -strong. It should be sewed, not gummed, as the gum makes the paper tear -easily, and your sticky fingers spoil the whole cover very quickly. The -paper is tough enough to be sewed, using a fine needle and white cotton, -and you will get a neater and much more satisfactory job. - -Make a triangle by lashing together three pieces of bamboo, two being -about two inches long, and the third one inch. This triangle is lashed -to the backbone just behind the wings, with the short side down; its -position may be seen by a glance at the picture of the finished machine. -It is kept rigid by running stays, made of waxed sewing-silk, from the -lower corners to the stern-post, from the right-hand corner to the -middle of the left wing, and from the left-hand corner to the middle of -the right wing. - -Just in front of this triangle fasten a piece of the bamboo, and make -two small guiding vanes or rudders. These are made in a similar manner -to the wings. Tie threads to the lower corners of the wings, and then to -the triangle, drawing them down until they have the proper angle. The -guiding-vanes should have a greater angle than the wings—that is, they -should be drawn farther down. - -It only remains now to make the screw and attach the rubber band. For -the hub of the wheel you will need a small cork. This cork must be kept -from turning on the end of the shaft. If the sharpened end of the shaft -carrying the hook for the rudder was simply stuck into the cork, it -would soon wear loose and turn easily. To make a firm hold for the -shaft, bore a hole through the cork about a quarter-inch from the large -end, and drive a plug of soft wood into this hole. The flat-pointed end -of the shaft can now pass into the cork and be forced into the wood, -being careful to have the end of the point parallel to the grain of the -wood. This will give a firm hold and prevent the screw slipping. - -The blades of the screw are made of thin paper gummed on to short pieces -of bamboo. Lay one of the bamboo spokes on a piece of thin, stiff paper, -and then gum over it a small strip of the thin Japanese paper before -referred to. When this is dry, cut it down to the proper shape and -sharpen the end of the spoke. Force these spokes into the cork so that -all the blades will turn the same way, as shown in the picture—_i. e._, -so that when the screw is turned the blades will all strike the air in -the same manner and tend to force the machine forward, not so that some -try to push it forward and some backward. - -Select a rubber band of the proper size—such a one as will stretch the -length of the backbone easily and not be so strong that, when stretched, -the backbone is bent into a bow. Tie this band to the forward support -with a string, and then draw it back and slip it over the hook on the -shaft. - -To wind up the machine, hold it by the backbone and turn the screw the -wrong way until the rubber is twisted tight. Then hold the machine up, -let go the screw, and when it is revolving rapidly, give it a gentle -push forward. If it pitches head-first, draw down the wings; if -tail-first, let up the wings or turn the screw the other way. If the -wheel does not revolve rapidly cut off part of the blades or use a -stronger rubber. Some little adjustment of the kind is usually required -before the thing moves properly. - -A contrivance of this sort should be very light. The one before me has -wings two feet from tip to tip, and it weighs when complete—backbone, -wings, rubber, screw, etc.—only one-third of an ounce. - - - Self-acting Aërial Car - -Here is an idea for a mechanical toy to be used either on a kite-string -or a cord stretched from a flag-pole in the yard or a handy tree. The -only condition is that the lower end of the cord is directly against the -wind. The elevation at which the car can run will depend on the strength -of the wind and sail area of the machine. The only wood used is the -lightest and driest pine that can be procured. The carriage is made -entirely of one-half by one-quarter inch wood, and is composed of two -strips, fourteen inches long, placed one inch apart. The two guiders are -two inches from each end, and have a small screw-eye on the lower -extremity, through which the cord is passed. On the upper side of the -carriage, exactly in the centre, are screwed two eyes, which should -measure a little over a half-inch in diameter of the inside of their -circle. Through these is passed the spar of the sail, allowing enough -space to insure easy turning, as the spar acts as an axis on which the -sail turns when on its downward trip. This spar is at right angles with -the carriage. Two upright sticks measuring twenty inches, and the same -dimensions as the material used for the construction of the carriage, -are next added. These should be slightly pointed at both ends, and a -cross-bar at the top of these uprights securely fastened gives -additional strength. The balancing-bar is made of three-eighths by -three-eighths inch pine, tapering at the lower end, and is ten inches in -length, and fastened to the carriage by two strips of wood—five by -one-quarter by one-eighth inch. The wheels are formed as follows: Take a -piece of one-eighth inch pine, which should be at least three inches -wide. On this place a strip of wood, we will say, for instance, ten by -one-quarter by one-half inch. By driving a small wire nail through both -pieces of wood, and inserting a sharp knife-blade through the upper -piece of wood, and turning (the upper piece) slowly from left to right, -you will find you can cut a perfect circle in the lower piece of wood. -The wheels are formed by this process. It takes four pieces of stiff -card-board and two of wood to make the wheels for the carriage. The -diameter of the wooden wheel is one and one-half inches, while the -card-board disks are two and one-quarter inches. The wheels in the -draught are a trifle smaller, but by experiments it is found that the -above-sized wheel makes faster time. You will see that after cutting out -your disks the hole made by the wire nail is exactly in the centre. Run -a small wire nail through the three disks, placing the wooden disk in -the centre and the card-board ones on each side (this makes three disks -for each wheel). Put some glue on touching surface, and clinch the three -together with pins or wire brads. The place where these nails go is -shown by the spots on side draught of the wheel. The axle-tree is made -of oak, and at the extremities a piece of stout wire is inserted, which -extends one-eighth of an inch beyond the wood of the axle-tree. The -hardest axle-tree is one made from the shafts of an old clock. Take -particular care that the wheels run very true, as the success of the -machine depends to a great extent upon this. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4] - -From the lower extremity of the balancing-rod hangs a weight. The -easiest way to make this weight is to take a small bag, and fill it with -sand until the machine balances (the sail in horizontal position). -Having progressed thus far in the construction of the machine, turn the -sail in a horizontal position, and attach a cord from one side of the -cross-bar to a small grooved wheel at the aft end of the carriage. From -the screw-eye at lower extremity of the balancing-bar is attached a -small rubber band; when stretched it will reach within three-quarters of -an inch of the small wheel at the aft end of the carriage. It will be -found, after the cord and rubber band have been joined, that upon -letting go the perpendicular bars the sail will turn in a horizontal -position. At the forward end of the carriage is a catch, to which is -fastened a ring. The catch comes in contact with a block (previously -placed three-quarters up the string). The detail drawings show the -formation and working of the catch. Fig. 4. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 -] - -The sail is made of light muslin, and extends in the form of a pair of -wings, the cloth only reaching from the outside of the uprights to the -ends of the spar, leaving a free space in the centre for the sail to -pass through the carriage. The parachute is a small Chinese umbrella -(pick out one that opens easily), and can be bought for a few cents. A -small weight is attached to the handle with a few feet of cord. We will -say that now you have completed the machine—you have a kite flying; run -the string through the two guiders, place the two wheels of the carriage -upon the kite-string, set the sail perpendicular, and fasten the catch -with the cord. A stop-block has been previously placed on the cord -twenty feet from the kite; now attach the parachute (Chinese umbrella). -The force of the wind acting on the sail forces the machine up the -incline of the kite-string at a rapid rate, skyward, until it reaches -the block, which throws off the catch. The sail swings back to a -horizontal position, letting the parachute drop. The sail being folded -and presenting no resistance to the wind, the force of gravitation -acting on the weight of the machine causes it to descend the kite-cord -quickly, and return to the original starting-point of its flight. See -Fig. 5, a side and end view, and Fig. 6, the parachute and the car on -its return. - - - Aërial Boat-sailing - -Study with care the accompanying plans. The materials are one-half by -one-quarter-inch pine, free from knots, ten common brass rings -three-quarters of an inch in diameter, two round-headed brass screws one -inch in length, two flat-headed ones of the same dimensions, two small -screw-hooks, and eight assorted brass screw-eyes, there being two of -each size. Now that we have the material for the frames, we will begin -with Fig. 7, which shows the sail and sheer plan. The frame is made of -six pieces of wood. The top piece is exactly two feet in length. The two -uprights which hold the wheels are each one foot and one inch long. The -two angle pieces are one foot nine inches each. The lower horizontal -strip measures two feet three and one-half inches, and is joined to the -two angle strips by means of a screw-eye and screw at each extremity. -Now cut a strip of pine, making it exactly three feet in length. Set it -on the frame in an upright position, allowing a half-inch clearance from -the upper horizontal piece. It should be eleven inches from one of the -angle pieces at the lower end. Round the upper part above the horizontal -strip; it should be brought to a taper at the upper end. This forms the -mast. The lower part is uniform, and allows the weight to be moved up -and down to insure a correct balance, which is regulated according to -the force of the wind. The weight is made of one-and-a-half-inch lead -pipe, and is two inches in length. A round plug of pine is driven in the -centre of the lead pipe, and a hole is bored in the centre of the plug -to fit the balancing-bar. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7] - -One of the screw-eyes is inserted through the piece of lead pipe, and by -this means the weight can be elevated or brought down the shaft and held -firmly in the required place, which will depend on the force of the -wind. In regard to the wheels, Fig. 8 shows the simplest constructed. -They are made in three parts. Take two of the largest-sized wooden -button moulds and a piece of thin board (cut in a circle) smaller than -the button moulds. We will say, for instance, the button moulds are one -and one-half inches in diameter, and the centre piece of pine is one -inch in diameter and one-eighth of an inch thick. The way to get a true -circle on this soft pine is to take the one-eighth-inch wood and measure -on a separate piece of pine one-half inch, drive in a small wire nail in -one extreme of the previously measured strip, and on the other extremity -insert the point of a sharp knife. Place on the board used for centre of -wheel, and turn in a circle from right to left several times. If the -distance between the knife-blade and nail is one-half inch, the wheel -cut out will be exactly one inch in diameter. - -Insert a wire nail through the two button moulds, and place the inch -wheel in the centre, gluing it at each contact surface. This will give -you the grooved wheel. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8] - -The drawing (Fig. 7) indicates how this wheel is fastened to the frame. -The wheel can be made of two card-board disks two and one-half inches in -diameter, and one wooden wheel two inches in diameter placed between -them. They are joined by clinched pins, shown by the circle of dots in -Fig. 8. - -The dimensions of the sail are as follows: Main-sail—hoist, ten and -one-half inches; gaff, eight and one-half inches; leech, nineteen and -one-quarter inches; boom, fourteen and one-half inches. Jib—foot, eleven -inches; hoist, sixteen inches—on the stay, twenty and one-quarter -inches. The jib carries a boom, and the main-sail a gaff and boom. The -material used for the sails is light muslin with hemmed edges. - -Take a long chalk-line or heavy cord, and stretch at right angles to the -direction of the wind. If the wind is from the north, the cord must -reach east and west. Each extremity of the cord must be the same height -from the ground, and can be attached from tree to tree, or from an -upper-story window to a house near by. - -When the boat reaches the extremity of the cord the operator at that end -of the cord turns it, and starts it on the return journey. - -If the cord is strung between two houses you will find the boat will -sail back and forth, except when the wind is dead ahead or a few points -either way. - - - A “High-flyer” - -To make the “flyer” you will need a piece of thin sheet tin, zinc, or -iron, that may be purchased from a tinsmith for a few cents; and for the -engine a linen-thread spool, a piece of hard-wood stick, and a few steel -wire nails will be required. - -To begin with, obtain an empty linen-thread spool having a smooth hole -through it, and in one end drive four one-inch steel-wire nails at -regular distances apart, so as to form the corners of a perfect square; -drive the nails in half-way, then file the heads off, and the spool will -appear like Fig. 9. Next get a round hard-wood stick seven inches long, -and around it, two inches from one end, make a deep cut with your knife. -From this cut to the end of the stick shave the wood away so it will -look like Fig. 11. - -These two parts will complete the engine, and the next thing to make -will be the flyer. Thin sheet-zinc will be found the best to make it of; -and having obtained a piece, mark on it with a compass a circle five -inches in diameter; mark two lines across this circle from edge to edge, -at right angles, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 14. - -From a piece of stiff paper cut a pattern in the form of one of the ears -shown in Fig. 14. Lay this pattern on the zinc so that one of the lines -will be in the centre of it, and mark the shape on the zinc; mark the -other three ears in a similar manner, and then with a stout pair of -shears cut out the flyer. - -In the centre of it make a hole large enough for the small end of the -stick to pass through it, and around it make four small holes at the -centre of each ear, to correspond with the pins on the spool. - -The flyer will then fit over the stick and pins and lay flat on top of -the spool; bend its ears with your fingers so they appear like the -propeller-blades of a steamboat, or like a windmill, and it will then be -ready to fly. Fig. 10. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 - Fig. 14 - A “HIGH-FLYER” -] - -When bending the ears they must be arranged so that the edge that -catches the wind first will be inclined upward, as otherwise the flyer, -instead of flying, will hug the spool tightly. - -Another style of flyer is shown in Fig. 12, and is made of a circular -disk of zinc four inches in diameter. - -Make the five holes in the centre fit over the stick and pins. When all -the places have been cut, bend the ears down as shown in Fig. 13, and -when flying it turn it upside-down, letting the ears project upward. - -To put the flyer in action, take the stick in your left hand, and over -the small end of it place the spool, against which put your thumb to -keep it from slipping. Wind strong cord around the spool, to the end of -which a button is fastened to keep the cord from slipping through your -fingers; on top of the spool place the flyer, and give the string a -vigorous pull, at the same time releasing the spool with your thumb, and -the centrifugal force will cause the flyer to revolve rapidly, shoot -upward, and sail to a height of fifty or a hundred feet in the air, -slowly descending as the revolutions diminish. - -Larger flyers can be made in a similar manner; and to make a very large -one, plant a post in the ground, having its upper end reduced to form a -shoulder, as explained for the small stick. Get a round piece of wood -several inches in diameter, and arrange four very stout steel-wire nails -in the top of it. Make a tin or iron flyer twelve or fifteen inches in -diameter, and use a piece of small clothes-line or cotton line to spin -it with. - -To operate it, wind the spool with the rope, and have some one under it -to keep it from slipping. When you are ready to pull the rope, place the -flyer on the pins, and as the spool is released give the rope a quick, -strong pull, and the flyer will rise. - - - - - Part II - - AFIELD - - - - - Chapter VI - - COASTERS, SKEES, AND SNOW-SHOES - - -All real boys welcome the approach of the winter season with its -glorious opportunities for sport on the snow and ice. Toboggans, -double-runners, skees, and snow-shoes—the very words make the blood -tingle in one’s veins, and happy is the boy whose home is in the -Northern climes where there is real winter for at least four months out -of the year. - -Nowadays it is possible to purchase almost everything for winter sports, -but the boy who is handy with tools and of an inventive turn of mind -will take more pleasure in constructing his own things than in buying -them out of a shop. - -Very few boys would care to make their own skates, as the modern -steel-clamp skates are superior in lightness and durability to anything -he could construct; but the various varieties of sleds, coasters, and -snow-shoes are quite within the measure of his abilities, and their -making will fill most pleasurably the leisure hours after school and on -Saturdays. - -All the cold-weather countries have their distinctive and peculiar forms -of winter amusements. Tobogganing and snow-shoeing are particularly -popular in Canada; skeeing is the national sport of Norway. But it is -the American boy who has reduced coasting to an exact science, and the -Yankee bob-sleds and “jumper-coasters” are now pre-eminent wherever the -snow flies. To take the best wherever we find it is the sportsman’s -motto. - - - Toboggans - -There is no more enjoyable winter sport than tobogganing, and in many -parts of America, notably Montreal, large and expensively constructed -artificial slides are in constant use throughout the winter season. - -For ordinary hill-coasting most American boys prefer bob-sleds and -coasters, but in the extreme Northern States and throughout Canada the -plain toboggan is the favorite coaster. - -A boy who is at all clever with tools can make a good toboggan from -three or four thin hickory boards, a few cross-battens, and some rails. -For the bottom quarter-inch hickory should be employed, as that is -strong and will bend easily when steamed. - -To make an eight-foot toboggan with a width of twenty inches, obtain the -hickory boards and batten them with three pieces of hard-wood two inches -wide and three-quarters of an inch thick. Make the fastenings with brass -screws or copper rivets having the heads countersunk in the bottom. At -the front ends rivet on a wood batten long enough to project two inches -beyond the boards at each end. - -From a curtain-pole cut six pieces two inches long and bore a -quarter-inch hole through each one from end to end. Cut two hickory -rails three-quarters of an inch square and plane off the sharp corners; -then with copper or iron rods, to act as long rivets, attach the rails -to the toboggan so that they are separated from the battens by means of -the wooden blocks, as shown in the illustration of the plain toboggan. -Fig. 1. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 -] - -At both ends of the rod-rivets place washers or burrs to rivet on, as -otherwise the rivet would pull through the wood, tearing the hole larger -and at the same time making the anchorage insecure. Cut notches in the -projecting ends of the front stick as shown at the right side of Fig. 2, -so that ropes can be lashed fast to the stick as shown at the left side -of Fig. 2. - -Steam the boards between the front end and the first batten, or pour -boiling hot water over both sides of the boards; then bend the wood up -and with the ropes as a help to hold the boards in place continue the -wetting and bending until the proper curve has been gained, as shown in -the illustration. Lash the ropes fast, and when the wood is dry -sand-paper it smooth and give it several good coats of varnish. - -A sled-toboggan (Fig. 3) is made from two hickory boards eight feet long -and a quarter of an inch in thickness. If the toboggan is to be -twenty-two inches wide each runner should be several inches wide. - -Three hard-wood bridges twenty-two inches long and four inches high are -cut, as shown in Fig. 4, and attached to the runners with screws (Fig. -3). They support a seat eight inches wide which is screwed down to the -top of the bridges. - -In front of the first bridge and behind the last one short -bracket-braces are attached to prevent the bridges from rocking, and -these as well as the bridges can be cut from wood about an inch and a -half in thickness. - -The front ends of the boards are attached to a batten, and by steaming -the boards may be curved up as shown and held in place with a -stanchion-rope lashed fast to the batten and to the front bridge. A -supporting bridge should be used to give it additional power. Fig. 3. - -When the varnish wears off the bottom give it another coat, as the -smooth, hard finish helps the toboggan to slide easily over the snow. - - - A Rocker-coaster - -A very good coasting-sled is shown in the illustration of a -rocker-coaster (Fig. 5), and for short hills a sled of this sort will -prove very fast and easy to steer. - -It is from four to five feet long, twenty inches broad, and seven inches -high at the middle. The lower edge of each runner is curved from end to -end with a long, sweeping line, and it is grooved to receive a round -runner of steel, which a blacksmith will make and attach. - -The frame of the coaster should be made of hard-wood five-eighths of an -inch in thickness, and the three cross-ribs are one inch and a half in -width and one inch in thickness. Laps are cut in the top edges of the -sides, and the cross-ribs are let into them and made fast with screws. -Wooden brackets or cleats are attached to the sides and to the under -side of each cross-rib to strengthen the construction, and at both ends -a piece of round curtain-pole is made fast as shown in Fig. 5. - -The ends of the poles are trimmed off so as to form dowel ends, and -these fit into holes made in the ends of the sides. - -Hand-holes are cut with a bit and compass-saw at the ends of the sides; -a deck of half-inch wood is laid over the ribs and held down with -screws. Have the blacksmith flatten the ends of each runner and bend -them over so they will lie on top at the end of each side. - -A few good coats of paint will finish the wood-work nicely, and the -rocker-coaster will then be ready for use. - - - A Single-runner Coaster - -A few years ago the boys of New England invented a new kind of sled and -called it a single-runner coaster or jumper-coaster. They sit upon it, -keeping their balance with the feet, and it is remarkable how rapidly -and easily they go downhill on this queer-looking affair, and without -the slightest danger of toppling over. Fig. 6. - -The coaster is very simple in construction and any boy can make it from -pine or hard-wood, the latter being preferable as it has more body and -is heavier. The runner is forty-two inches long, one inch and a half -thick, and four inches high, curved at one end and cut at an angle at -the other. The upright is of wood the same thickness and width, and -eleven or twelve inches high, so that with the top board or seat and the -height of the runner the coaster is sixteen or seventeen inches high; -and for taller boys it can be made still higher. The seat is ten inches -long and seven inches wide, and attached to the upright with screws, as -shown at Fig. 7. The upright is cut from wood about ten inches wide, so -that, with a compass-saw, a broad foot may be shaped at the bottom which -will give a better bearing on the runner than would a narrower one. - -From wood two inches wide, make two side-plates or braces to run from -under the seat down half-way over the runner as shown in Fig. 7. To -steady the seat at the top of the uprights cut two angle-brackets and -attach them as shown in the figure drawing. A blacksmith will fashion a -runner from quarter-round or thin tire iron and attach it as shown in -the illustration. The runners can be held on with flat-headed screws -countersunk in the iron, and after a few trips the surface of the metal -will be worn bright and smooth, insuring easy and rapid running. - - - A Bob-sled - -Every boy wants a double-runner of his own, for there seems to be -nothing quite like bobbing on a sled carrying from six to ten -boys—enough to give it weight and a good impetus on its downward course. -A bob-sled is not at all difficult to construct, and a very satisfactory -and substantial one may be made from inexpensive materials and with the -tools that nearly every boy possesses. Fig. 8. - -For the seat obtain a clear spruce plank ten feet long, ten inches wide, -and one inch and a half thick, planed on both sides and edges. The front -sled is thirty inches long and fourteen inches wide, with the sides five -inches high. The rear sled is forty inches long from prow to end of -runners, and is the same width and height as the front one. The sides -are of hard-wood seven-eighths of an inch in thickness, and braced with -cross-pieces of hard-wood two inches wide and one inch and a half thick. - -Laps are cut in the top of the sides, and with screws the ends of the -braces are securely held in place. Under each cross-piece and at the -sides brackets must be securely fastened with screws as shown at Fig. 9, -to strengthen the sides and take some of the strain from the cross-piece -fastenings. Eight inches from the rear end a stout block is set in the -runners through which the king-bolt passes that fastens the seat to the -sled. This is of hard-wood fourteen inches long, two inches and a half -wide, and four inches high at the middle, as shown in Fig. 9. A similar -block two inches high is attached to the under side of the plank and -bears on the lower block. Between the two blocks and on the bolt, two -large, flat iron washers are placed, so that it will be an easy matter -to turn the sled when there is a heavy weight on the plank. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 -] - -The head of the five-eighths-inch king-bolt should be embedded in the -top of the block that is fast to the plank before it is attached, and -the bolt should be provided with two nuts for safety. In the -summer-time, when the bob is stored away, the forward sled can be -removed by unscrewing the nuts from the lower end of the bolt under the -sled. - -To steer the bob a hard-wood cross-bar piece is let into the runners as -shown in Fig. 9. It projects six inches at each side, and foot-notches -are cut at the rear edge as shown in the illustration. The rear sled is -attached to the plank by means of a block and bolts. - -Two triangular hard-wood blocks one inch in thickness, with the grain -running vertically, are screwed fast to the inside sides of the runners -as shown in Fig. 10, and through holes in the upper end a long half-inch -bolt is passed from side to side. This bolt fits in a groove made at the -under side of the block that is attached to the plank; and across the -groove in several places straps of iron are fastened as shown in the -inverted block at Fig. 11. A hinge-joint is the result, and to prevent -the rear sled from dropping too far when jumping over a bump a rope -should be passed under the forward cross-piece and attached to a staple -driven at the under side of the plank. - -The plank can be padded with hair from an old mattress and covered with -a strip of carpet nailed all around the edges of the board. Cross-pieces -screwed fast to the under side of the plank will serve as foot-rests, -and with a coat or two of paint this bob-sled will be ready for use. - - - Skees - -Skee running and jumping is one of the favorite winter sports in Norway -and Sweden and is steadily growing in favor both in the Northern United -States and in Canada. On very steep hills it is a dangerous sport, but -it is perfectly safe to use the skees on either short hills or on long -ones that are not too steep. Once you start you must go to the bottom, -and a good skee-jumper should be as agile as a cat, for he must always -land feet down when jumping. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 -] - -A skee of the right proportions should be seven feet long and four -inches wide. Hickory, oak, or other hard-wood three-quarters of an inch -in thickness will be the best material from which to make the skees. Two -or three grooves cut in a straight line along the entire bottom length -will hold the skee slider on his course, as the keel does a boat. - -The skees are tapered and bent up at the front ends as shown in Fig. 12. -This can be done by steaming and bending until the proper pitch is -obtained; but if a high curve is desired it would be well to attach a -thong to the end and draw it back to the body of the skee as shown in -Fig. 12 A. - -At the middle of the skee a foot-block is attached and provided with a -toe-strap as shown in Fig. 13. This strap fits under the block and can -be removed if necessary as a lap is cut at the under side of the block. - -A shorter and broader skee is shown in Fig. 12 B. This is safer for -smaller boys to use as it is five feet long and six inches wide. - -Many of the Norwegian skees are beautifully carved and ornamented, and -the boy who has some decorative ability can embellish the tops of his -skees and varnish them all over to improve their appearance and make -them smooth, so that they will slide easily. - -A skee made from a hogshead or crockery-cask stave is shown in Fig. -12 C, and a great deal of fun can be had with this makeshift on short -hills. - - - Snow-shoes - -For travelling over the snow the most widely known and useful appliance -is the snow-shoe in one form or another. The Esquimau and the American -Indian do all their winter travelling on snow-shoes, and through the -Alps and in the snow-bound parts of Europe and Asia they are commonly -employed as a means of locomotion from place to place. - -The long snow-shoe shown in Fig. 14 A is the one commonly used by the -Iroquois Indians, and it measures from three to four feet in length and -from twelve to fifteen inches in width. It is usually made from one long -strip of hickory bent while green and dried in the desired shape, then -braced and interlaced with thongs of rawhide or deer-gut. - -The rim is usually from three-quarters to seven-eighths of an inch -square and is rounded on the outer edges. The braces or spreaders are -let into the inner edges of the rim as shown in Fig. 15 A, and are held -securely in place with a thong passed through a hole in the end of the -piece and wrapped around the rim as shown in Fig. 15 B. The spreaders -are of seasoned hickory two inches wide and five-eighths of an inch -thick. The edges are bevelled slightly, and near the centre line two -rows of holes are made through which to lace the thongs. Two smaller -sticks are arranged at each side of the broad spreaders, and the lattice -weaving is caught around them as shown in the illustration. Some of the -thongs are caught over the rim while others are passed through holes -made in the edge similar to the manner in which a tennis racket is -laced. Foot-laces are fastened at the front spreader to which the -shoe-toes are lashed, for when travelling the heels should be free to -lift while the ball of the foot and the entire snow-shoe remains flat on -the snow. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 - SNOW-SHOES -] - -The shoe in the form of a tennis racket (Fig. 14 B) is the shape -commonly used by the Esquimaux and is about thirty-four inches long and -fifteen inches wide. It is made somewhat similar to the Iroquois shoe -but the mesh is more open. - -The oval shoe (Fig. 14 C) is made from two U-shaped rims lashed together -at the middle and provided with two spreaders. Two stout pieces of -rawhide are laced in the ends, and through the middle a lacing of thongs -is woven across between the spreaders and sides of the rim. - -These and many other forms of snow-shoes can be made by the boy who is -interested in snow-shoe travelling. The wood can be procured anywhere -and the rawhide thongs may be purchased at a hardware store. They are -sold as belt-lacings for machinery, but they can be easily split and so -made available for snow-shoe use. - - - - - Chapter VII - - SAIL-SKATING AND SNOWBALL ARTILLERY - - - A Skating-sail - -Sail-skating is a very enjoyable means of getting over the ice, and with -properly constructed frames and sails a very respectable rate of speed -can be maintained. In using a sail the boy is the boat, and by his -manipulation of the sheets he can go where he pleases, either before the -wind or tacking, as in a boat. - -The skating-sail shown in Fig. 1 is an improvement over the old style of -attaching two diamond-shaped cloths to the ends of yard-arms. To make -the frame obtain two clear pine or white-wood sticks twelve feet long, -one inch and a quarter square, and taper them slightly towards the ends -with a plane. At the same time round the corners at the top of one stick -and bottom of the other as shown in Fig. 2 C, which represents a -sawed-off section of both sticks. With linen line wind the sticks for an -inch or two for every nine or ten inches of their entire length to -strengthen them. Paint these windings a dark color and then varnish the -sticks or color them with a stain. - -Now procure two other sticks, each five feet six inches long and -seven-eighths of an inch square, and plane them smooth, at the same time -tapering the ends slightly. These are for the cross-arms, and at the -middle of each one lash fast a block five inches long and seven-eighths -of an inch square having a pin driven in each end as shown in Fig. 2 A. -These pins fit in small holes made at the inside of the yard-arms four -feet and six inches from either end. - -The yard-arms are lashed together at the ends, then sprung apart at the -middle so that the cross-arm blocks will fit between them. To properly -hold the arms in place a strap should be drawn around the sticks at the -middle, and to insure a good prop a block six inches long, two inches -wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick is to be cut and provided with -two pins at each end as shown in Fig. 2 C. The pins will fit into small -holes made in the long sticks, and when the strap is buckled tight the -block will be held securely in place. - -A large flat hook should be lashed fast to this block, and when sailing -along before the wind this can be caught over a stout leather belt to -help support the weight of the sail. - -Two twilled-cotton sails are made in the shape shown in the illustration -and provided with snaps at the three outer ends so that they may catch -into eyes lashed fast to the ends of the arms and to the long sticks as -shown in Fig. 2 B. The sails should be drawn taut at the inner ends with -rings and a strap or light rope. If there should be too much sail-area -for the wind that may be blowing the sail can be feathered—that is, bent -down or up so that it allows some of the wind to pass under it instead -of pressing against the sails with its full force. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - A SKATING-SAIL, A SQUARE-RIGGED ICE-SAIL, AND A SNOWBALL MORTAR -] - - - A Square-rigged Ice-sail - -In Fig. 3 two square sails are supported at the ends of crossed -yard-arms fourteen feet long. Four cross-sticks of equal length are -made, the same as those for the skating-sail first described, and at the -middle a long block is attached to two of them as shown in Fig. 2 A. -Pins in the ends of the blocks fit into holes in the long arms, and when -the ends of the long arms are bent in they grip the pins and blocks. - -Short blocks provided with a single pin are lashed to the outer -cross-sticks eight inches in from the ends. Holes made in the outer ends -of the long sticks will receive these pins, the spring of the stick -holding both inner and outer cross-sticks in place at the same time. - -Heavy sheeting or unbleached muslin sails may be stretched and bound to -the cross-sticks and when detached they can be rolled up on the sticks. -This sail is handled the same as the skating-sail but is more powerful -as the sheets are larger. - - - A Snowball Mortar - -For snowball fights a mortar is an effective weapon for it throws a shot -upward into the air. It may be mounted on a hand-sled. - -Make two triangles of boards as shown in Fig. 4. The bottom strip should -project far enough below the two legs to permit of screwing it firmly to -the edge of the bottom board, which is the width of the top of the sled -and is attached to it by straps. - -The pivot-bar or axle-tree rests in grooves cut in the points of the -triangles. The propulsion-bar (A) is a stout piece of oak fastened -securely to the pivot-bar and at right angles to it. Two uprights (BB) -fastened to the bottom board by screws or nails driven from underneath -and braced to the legs of the triangles support a cross-piece which -keeps the propulsion-bar horizontal when the spring is attached. A small -tin basin is secured to the extreme forward end of the propulsion-bar. - -To use the mortar place a snowball or other missile in the basin and -strike the other end of the bar a hard blow with a long-handled -wooden-mallet. - -The range may be regulated by the force of the blow and by moving the -sled to and fro and right and left. Dimensions of mortar shown in -diagram: Length of bottom board, three feet ten inches; length of legs, -two feet six inches; uprights, two feet three inches; propulsion-bar, -four feet two inches by two and one-half by four inches; width of frame, -thirteen inches. - -Should the snow be too dry to make compact snowballs a small piece of -sheep-skin or cotton-batting should be inserted in the breech of the gun -or the basin of the mortar and tacked in place. This will tend to -prevent the snowballs from breaking. - -Fig. 5 is an end-view of the mortar and Fig. 6 is the wooden mallet used -in firing. - - - - - Chapter VIII - - KITES AND AEROPLANES - - - The Ship Kite - -The ship kite (Fig. 1) is an odd shape for a wind-toy but a good sailer -in any breeze. It is quite easy to make and requires but one mast, four -yard-arms, a keel, some thin, strong twine, and the necessary covering -materials. The mast is thirty-six inches long, the lowest spar -twenty-four inches long, the top one twelve, and the two middle ones -proportioned in length to the two side-strings tied at the ends of the -top and bottom sticks—that is, at A and B on both sides of Fig. 2. - -The keel of the frame is made from a thin piece of hard-wood that will -spring and keep its shape, such as hickory, oak, or birch; and after -soaking it in boiling hot water for a few minutes lash it fast to the -bottom of the mast and draw up the ends with the strings C, C (Fig. 2), -and carry the ends up over two yard-arms so the pressure of the keel -will not draw the lower yard-arm out of shape. The sticks should be of -good clear and tough white or North Carolina pine, spruce, or -white-wood, three-eighths of an inch square for the mast and the same -size but tapered at the ends for the yard-arms. Use strong cotton or -linen twine for the connections between spars and mast and draw them -taut but not so tight that they would spring the sticks out of shape. - -From the ends of each yard-arm strings D D D are stretched and tied to -the mast so as to make an opening at the bottom of each sail. In -kite-making it is found a much better plan to have a number of planes -against which the wind can act instead of one large one that is often -unwieldy and difficult to handle. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 -] - -This frame should be covered with thin paper muslin, sewed all around -the edges over the string-ribs and to the frame-sticks with strong -cotton thread. Do not have too much muslin overlap the edges, and after -going around the edges twice with the needle and fine cotton thread it -would be well to cut away all the unnecessary material as it only adds -weight with no benefit to the kite. Do not use paste or glue to fasten -the fabric covering on a frame; it only adds weight and does not stick -well. - -Arrange the yoke as shown in the illustration of the ship kite (Fig. 1), -and to balance it make two funnel-drags or wind-anchors from thin wire -or wood hoops, nine inches in diameter, the funnel proper being of paper -muslin twelve inches deep. Use hickory or green birch for the hoops and -lap the ends for three inches; then bind them together with strong linen -thread. - -Make the funnel-shaped bag of paper muslin and drop the hoop into it, -taking care to get an equal space all around from point of cone to edge -of hoop. Then sew the bag fast to the hoop and cut away all surplus -material. The yoke is made of two strong, thin cross-wires or strings -and the drop-string is fastened where they cross, as may be seen in Fig. -1. - - - The Chinese-junk Kite - -The Chinese-junk kite (Fig. 3), is made in a similar manner to the ship -kite, but there are two masts, as the kite is broader and larger; -consequently the frame should be braced so that it will not rack in a -strong breeze. - -The masts are forty-two inches high, the lowest yard-arm thirty-six -inches long, and the top one thirty inches in length. The bottom of the -hull is made from a piece of green hickory or birch sprung into place -and lashed fast with linen line. There are three inches of space between -the hull and lower sail and from two to three inches of space between -the other sails. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - THE CHINESE-JUNK KITE -] - -The masts and spars may be of any light, strong wood, the masts half an -inch square and the yard-arms three-eighths of an inch tapered towards -the ends. The spars and masts are bound securely with fine linen line as -shown in the junk kite-frame (Fig. 4). It would look well to cover the -sail-frames of all these boat kites with white or very light-colored -muslin and the hulls with dark-brown, green, or black goods so as to -lend contrast and make the kites when in the air appear more like real -boats. - -Arrange the yoke to this kite as shown in the drawing (Fig. 3), and add -as many funnel-drags as may be found necessary to steady this kite. -Instead of placing these wind-anchors close to the foot of the kite it -is often better to drop a cord five or ten feet with the funnel on the -end of it. While the funnel weighs but very little it is acted on by the -wind and is better than a heavy tail. As the wind blows stronger the -funnel is forced back and holds the wind, thereby dragging on the foot -of the kite and automatically shifting it to different angles so that -the wind will pass down along the planes and out through the spaces -underneath. - - - The Schooner Kite - -The schooner kite (Fig. 5) is an attractive one when sailing up in the -wind, and for a kite the shape is very close to a real schooner in -proportions. The frame is built on a deck-stick thirty-seven inches -long, and six inches below it is the keel-stick twenty inches long. The -main-mast or aft-stick is thirty-three inches long and the foremast is -thirty inches from tip to tip. The foremast is set in twelve inches from -the bow end of the deck-stick and the main-mast is ten inches from this. -The gaffs are each nine inches long and are caught to both mast and a -top-stick, which is in turn lashed fast to the upper part of each mast. -Strings are run from place to place on these sticks as shown at Fig. 6, -then the sails and hull are cut from muslin and sewed to the strings and -spars. - -The yoke is composed of three strings as shown in the drawing (Fig. 5), -and from the muslin cut two pennants and float them from the top of the -masts. - -When up in the air this schooner kite will have a very real appearance -as the breeze will bulge the sails and give it the effect of tacking on -the wind. If the schooner is inclined to pitch or roll too much attach -two wind-anchors, one at the foot of each mast, and pay them out about -five or six feet. - - - A Balloon Kite - -From four sticks and a long hickory rib the balloon kite-frame (Fig. 7) -is made. The cross-sticks are three feet and three inches long and the -uprights are each four feet long. The uprights are set apart six inches -at the foot and eleven inches at the top, while the cross-sticks are -twelve inches apart at both sides of the frame. Where the sticks cross -they are to be lashed and bound with linen twine; then the hickory rib -is sprung into position and lashed fast at the ends of the cross-sticks -and upper ends of the vertical sticks. A thong is to be bound to each -end of the rib and drawn down to the foot of the frame so that the curve -over the top formed by the hickory rib is even and symmetrical. - -Cover this frame with dark-gray or green paper muslin, then make the car -from a hoop fifteen inches in diameter and a muslin funnel twenty inches -deep. Suspend the car on four strings attached to the foot of the kite, -and having arranged the yoke from the places where the sticks cross, as -shown in Fig. 8, this interesting sky-scraper will be ready for an -ascension. - - - An Air-ship Kite - -The air-ship kite (Fig. 9), if large and well made, will present a very -realistic appearance when well up in the air. - -The frame is made from dry spruce or pine sticks half an inch square for -the long ones and a trifle smaller for the shorter ones. The frame as -shown in Fig. 10 is seven feet long from A to A, and at the middle the -balloon is twenty-eight inches—that is, from B to B. The middle upright -stick is four feet long and the end sticks C C that support the car are -forty-five inches long. The middle upright B B is first lashed to the -middle of the long stick A A. The ends of the curved sticks are then -brought together and lashed to ends A A, and at the same time the unions -are made with sticks C C. After that the sticks between B and C are set -in place and securely lashed fast. The long sticks D D, forming the top -and bottom of the car, are four feet and four inches long. One is lashed -to the lower ends of the three long drop-sticks and ten inches above -that the top one is made fast. - -With thin spring or hard brass wire bind the forms of the two occupants -of the car and make them fast to sticks D D with string. Then cover the -entire balloon and car as well as the men with dark-colored paper -muslin. Make the yoke of linen thread so that the kite will balance -well. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - THE SCHOONER, BALLOON, AND AN AIR-SHIP KITE -] - - - Bat-wing and Crown-top Kites - -Of the many odd shapes in which kites can be made perhaps the bat-wing -and crown-top are the most unique. - -The bat-wing (Fig. 11) is made up on a frame composed of half-inch -square sticks for the longest ones and three-eighths-inch square ones -for the cross-ribs. The two long sticks (Fig. 12, A A) are six feet and -six inches, slightly tapered at the ends and separated about eight -inches. The long uprights B B are four feet and three inches and are -separated fifteen inches. - -These two sets of sticks are lashed fast where they cross and the -horizontal ones are bound at the outer ends with short sticks twelve -inches in length. Fifteen inches up from the bottom a cross-stick, C, -four feet long is lashed fast; then the shape is described with stout -cotton or linen cord. This frame is to be covered with muslin and sewed -at the edges, and when ready to fly it arrange the yoke as shown in the -illustration (Fig. 11). - -The crown-top kite (Fig. 13) is three feet and six inches wide, three -feet high, and one foot across the bottom. These sizes are for a kite of -medium size; if a larger one is desired it can be made five feet and -three inches wide, four feet and three inches high, and eighteen inches -across the foot. The sticks are from a quarter to half an inch square -and bound together with strong, thin cord (Fig. 14). Muslin is the -proper covering for this frame, but if thin, strong paper is preferred -it can be used to good advantage. - - - Sandwich Islands Bird Kite - -One afternoon in the village of Paihiihi, on Maui, one of the Sandwich -Islands, I saw, at a considerable distance from me, a curious object -floating in the air and at first mistook it for a large bird. It would -glide about in graceful curves or dart suddenly towards the ground only -to soar upward just as suddenly, or poise motionless save for a slight -flapping of its wings. - -But my blissful ignorance was soon dispelled by the laughter of a friend -who assured me that I was gazing at one of the kites of the cannibals—a -name sportively applied to a number of natives of the Gilbert Islands -who immigrated to Maui some time since. They are a more barbarous people -than the Hawaiians but seem to be amiable, and I have never known them -to eat anything _worse_ than a shark. - -Wishing to see this new variety of kite, I started immediately for the -scene of action, and was soon in the midst of a dozen or more men and -women about half of whom had kites, which were larger than I had -supposed, being from thirteen to fifteen feet wide and two to three feet -high. When I arrived several were floating high in the air almost -directly over the men who held the strings—sometimes, indeed, sailing -directly over them. - -I watched for some time their graceful, birdlike motion and then tried -to buy one. They seemed loath to part with them, however, and it was -only after I had exhausted nearly all my persuasive powers and all the -small change in my pockets that I succeeded in obtaining one. My awkward -endeavors to carry it away with me were greeted with much laughter until -one of the cannibals showed me the proper way to handle it. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 -] - -The drawings which I have made of one of these kites will enable any -enterprising boy to make one. As no tail is used great care must be -taken to make it perfectly symmetrical. It is also desirable to have the -kite very light and yet as stiff as possible. - -The proper construction of the frame is shown in Fig. 15. The total -width of this kite is thirteen feet and the height at the middle is -thirty-two inches. First cut the middle stick C C thirty-two inches long -and lay it on the floor of a barn where a few nails can be driven in -temporarily to hold the sticks while bending them into the proper -shapes. Cut sticks D D, E E, and F F, and place them on the floor either -side of the middle one. The long, straight stick A A is twelve feet in -length, of half-inch basswood or pine, and slightly tapered with a plane -at both ends. Lash this to each of the cross-sticks, then with a long -stick bend the bow around nails driven in the floor as indicated by the -dots under the bow-piece in Fig. 15. - -This bow-piece is half an inch square and tapered with a plane at both -ends. It would be well to pour boiling water on this stick for a -distance of three feet at both ends, so as to make it easier to bend. -Leave it in this position for a few hours until the water dries out and -the wood is shaped, then lash the top ends of the cross-sticks to the -bow-piece. - -While bending the bow the two lower sticks may be shaped at the same -time. They should be of hickory or birch and tapered at the outer ends. -These must be shaped over nails the same as the bow-piece, then when -they are dry they are to be lashed to all the cross-ribs and the ends of -the bow with fine linen line. The cross-sticks need not be more than -three-eighths of an inch square, but the middle and top sticks should be -half an inch thick for strength. Draw cross-strings from the top and -lower ends of sticks D D, as shown in Fig. 15, to act as braces; then -cover the frame with thin, strong paper or muslin, sewing it fast to the -ribs with linen thread. The construction of the yoke is clearly shown in -Fig. 16. - - - Box Kites - -High up in the air, much too high for the boys on the ground to see the -mechanical details, several queer-looking but powerful kites, or “gigs,” -were tugging at their strings in a stiff breeze. When these flying-gigs -were hauled down a big crowd of boys gathered to see them at close -range, and here are the pictures of them as well as the plan-drawings -showing how they are made. Any bright boy can easily follow these plans -and produce equally good and powerful kites. - -The construction of the box kite is shown in Fig. 17, where the oblong -measures thirty-six inches high and twenty-four inches wide. These -oblongs are held apart at the top and bottom by sticks A A which measure -twelve inches in length. At the middle of the framework the corner -sticks B B are braced with two cross-sticks C, which are notched at the -ends, so that the inside corners of the sticks B B will fit snugly and -can be securely held with a slim steel-wire nail. This frame is made of -light pine sticks about three-eighths or half an inch square. - -Eight inches below the top of the frame tie a cord, and nine inches -below this tie another one to the front upright sticks as shown at D D. -Cover the front, sides, and back of the frame with strong, thin Manila -paper or light, closely woven muslin, having the top and bottom open, -also the space at the front between the strings D D. A yoke caught at -the top corner of the box, as shown in Fig. 18, will be sufficient in a -light breeze, but for a strong wind add another from the side-sticks -where the top or bottom cord D is tied; this will steady the flying-box -and prevent its pitching. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 17 - Fig. 18 - Fig. 19 - Fig. 20 -] - -The “paralleloplane” is another powerful kite which is easily -constructed according to the plan shown in Fig. 19. The front frame is -thirty-six inches high and twenty-four inches wide and braced with -cross-sticks H H. The rear frame is forty-four inches long and fifteen -inches wide and is held in place ten inches behind the large frame with -sticks I I. Strings are tied to the top and bottom cross-sticks of the -large frame, and eight inches apart, as shown at J J, to which one end -of the paper or muslin is made fast. Fig. 20 will show the three fields -covered with cloth or paper, and when the paralleloplane is in the air -the space between the front planes admits the wind to the rear plane -with the extending tail, which tips the kite to the proper angle. - -If these kites need balancing in very strong breezes, a yoke at the -bottom of the kites from which a long string may be suspended will take -some paper cross-bars, as shown in Fig. 21, or the wind-anchors can be -used. One or two of them may be hung from the bottom on a long string or -one at each lower end of the paralleloplane. - -A messenger that will travel and travel fast is shown in Fig. 22, and as -they are very easy to make a number of them should be prepared for use. -Two thin sticks twelve inches long form the top and bottom yards for a -strip of muslin or paper six inches wide. From the four ends some thin -wire such as florists use is connected with a cork about twelve inches -in the rear of the sail, where it is bound fast with a few wraps of the -wire. A pin is passed through the middle of the top yard to the sail and -is bent over forming a hook, and in the cork another one is arranged in -a similar manner. The messenger can be hung on the string, and if there -are no knots to intercept its progress it will quickly speed away to the -kite. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 21 - Fig. 22 -] - - - The Flying-wedge and Double-plane Kite - -Flying-wedge or double-plane kites are made in several shapes and sizes -with the planes arranged at different angles and in broken surfaces. - -The flying-wedge is an interesting gig to make and hold when up, for it -is a strong puller. Its construction is shown in Fig. 23, and like the -box kite the frame is made of half-inch pine sticks. The front frame is -forty inches high and twenty-four inches wide, and the rear one two -inches longer but the same width. The frames are attached at the top but -held apart at the bottom by the sticks E E, which are eighteen inches -long. Twelve inches below the top a cross-stick F is attached, and from -the side-sticks down to the centre of the bottom cross-stick the sticks -G G are made fast. Strings may be substituted for these sticks but they -will not brace the framework so well. Diagonally across the back frame -and at the bottom strings are made fast to brace the frame, while the -back ones also help to relieve the strain of the wind on the paper or -muslin drawn across the framework. Figure 24 will show the fields -covered with paper or muslin, which are arranged so the wind passing -through the triangular opening in front presses against the back plane -and out at the sides and bottom, while some of it is forced up in the -top behind the upper plane and helps in the lifting power. Small flags -on sticks at the top add to the appearance of this flying-wedge which is -an exceedingly unique sky-scraper. - -The double-plane kite (Fig. 25) is another form of the wedge. The -general plan and sizes for the frame of this wedge tally with those just -given, but the slight changes in the arrangement of sticks can be seen -in Fig. 26. - -The plane at the front is just half the height of the kite, and at the -back it would be well to use two cross-sticks from corner to corner as -braces rather than string as suggested for the flying-wedge. Use paper -muslin for the covering and stretch it taut; then sew it fast. Rig up -two small flags on sticks for the top corners and arrange the yoke as -shown in Fig. 25. If the wedge is inclined to wobble or dive hang two -wind-anchors on the corners, preferably the front, as the action will be -better than if hung at the back. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 23 - Fig. 24 - Fig. 25 - Fig. 26 -] - -The wind strikes the front plane and upper part of rear bevelled plane, -also the outer edges of the rear plane, and in this manner a double kite -is made that will be found a strong and steady puller. - - - Kite-reels - -Kite-reels are always useful things to help haul in long lengths of -string, and particularly if the kite is a strong puller and in a stiff -breeze. - -A reel for kites with a good pull is shown in Fig. 27, and a boy with a -hammer, a saw, and a few nails can quickly put it together from some -box-boards sawed in two-inch strips. The reel is made of two thin boards -half an inch in thickness, cut circular with a compass-saw, and the hub -is shaped from an old rolling-pin that perhaps has been discarded from -the kitchen. It is impossible to give exact sizes owing to the possible -difference in the lengths of rolling-pins, but the round sides should be -at least six inches in diameter and placed twelve inches apart. One end -of the pin, or the handle, should be sawed and cut square so a crank may -be cut and nailed to it as shown at A in Fig. 28. From wood -seven-eighths of an inch thick cut the crank B, and attach a handle to -the outer end of it. Bore a hole with a bit in the end that fits over -the axle, and with a compass-saw or small chisel cut the hole square so -that the axle will fit snugly into it. The flanges are to be made fast -to the ends of the rolling-pin hub with nails or screws, and this -revolving barrel is hung in the inverted V-shaped frame of the reel. To -hold this reel down when winding in a line make several hard-wood stakes -as shown at C. These are cut out with a saw; and to protect the head and -prevent it from splitting off, bore two small holes through the head as -indicated by the dotted lines and slip steel-wire nails through them. -Place burrs over the pointed ends, cut the ends off, and with a light -hammer rivet the nail-ends down on the burrs so as to bind the head -securely. This is much better than winding wire about the head, since -the nails act as pins and will prevent the head from splitting while the -stake is being driven into the ground. The overhanging end of the head -laps on the end cross-plates forming the platform of the reel, and two -or three at the end opposite that at which the string is being hauled in -will hold the reel securely to the ground. - -Another form of reel is shown in the illustration of a chest-reel (Fig. -30). This is made from two flat, good barrel-hoops, some braces, and the -reel and shaft as described in Fig. 28 A and B. - -Two good, broad barrel-hoops are selected and cut so that they will -measure eighteen inches on the segment or twelve inches across the line -A A in Fig. 29. Two out-riggers B B are cut from pine or white-wood ten -inches long, two inches wide, and three-quarters of an inch thick; these -are bevelled at the end towards the hoop, where they are made fast with -screws. The outer ends of these sticks are bound with the stick C, and -near the inner ends and close to the hoop a binder-piece D is fastened -with screws. - -The reel should be made first and clamped in place when the frame is put -together. The lower hoop is made fast to the short upright pieces C C, -shown in Fig. 30, and braced to the main out-riggers B B with -bracket-strips. All the unions are made with screws or long copper -rivets securely fastened at the blunt end with burrs over which the -copper end is beaten and riveted. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 27 - Fig. 28 - Fig. 29 - Fig. 30 - Fig. 31 - Fig. 32 - Fig. 33 -] - -Near the hoop-ends holes are to be made with a bit through which stout -cotton line can be passed and made fast so as to tie the reel to a boy’s -body (Fig. 30). The hoop-end should be bound with linen line at either -side of the hole so as to prevent the hoop splitting and the -lashing-thongs tearing away. This is a very convenient form of portable -reel and is easily carried about without having to touch it. A -friction-brake can be made from a piece of sole-leather that will bear -against the edge of one large end of the reel so that when paying out -cord it may be regulated as the kite draws on it. - -Leather or metal washers should be placed between the reel-ends and the -frame that the axle is hung in so as to prevent friction and the -consequent wearing of the wood. - -Fig. 31 shows a simple, home-made box-reel that will wind up a thousand -feet of line in short order. It consists of a box, to which the cover is -hinged, and two sprocket-wheels from an old bicycle. One large one has a -handle for turning it, the other, a smaller wheel, is fastened firmly to -a spindle (Fig. 32) that runs through the box. The box is of pine or -white-wood fourteen inches long inside measure, eight inches wide, and -ten inches deep. The wood may be from one-half to seven-eighths of an -inch thick, and the points should be made with glue and nails or screws -to hold them securely and prevent the box from racking. - -Find two old sprocket-wheels and a piece of bicycle chain and make the -wheels fast to iron axles that will pass through holes made in the sides -of the box. The ends of these axles should be threaded and provided with -a nut so as to hold the axles in place when run through the box. - -The arrangement of these wheels and the chain is clearly shown in the -illustration of a box-reel (Fig. 31). The large wheel should be attached -to an axle and one of the pedal-cranks made fast to it. Instead of the -pedal a wooden handle will slip on the pedal axle where it can be -secured by the nut that held the pedal in place. The relative positions -of wheels, axles, and other parts of this reel can be seen at Fig. 33. A -represents the crank, handle, and large wheel; B the axle that passes -through the box; C the axle and flanges made fast to the small -sprocket-wheel; and D shows how the wooden roller-wheels are arranged -over the slot in the box so that the string can be drawn in without its -touching the edge of the slot. The edges should be flared at the under -side so that the cord will wind on a fat reel without touching the wood -as shown at E. - -Two wooden flanges should be cut from thin wood and made fast to the -axle C to prevent the cord winding on the axle close to the box and -thereby clogging its action. Leather washers separate the flanges and -the boxes so as to reduce the possibility of friction. - -The slot cut in the top of the box should be as long as the available -winding-space on the axle, and protecting it at both sides are rollers -cut from one-inch curtain-poles or broom-sticks. Steel-wire -finishing-nails are driven in the end of each one, taking care to get -the nail exactly in the middle. - -Bend two L-pieces from stout sheet-iron, and having punched or drilled -holes in the right place through the upright ear, make these bearings -fast to the top of the box with screws as shown at D in Fig. 33. By -turning the box slightly from side to side when winding in the string, -the incoming line will travel from end to end of the slot so that the -coil on the shaft will be equally thick from flange to flange. - -A leather trunk-handle may be made fast to one end of the box for -convenience in carrying. - -This form of direct gearing with sprocket-wheels and chain makes it -impossible for the cord-shaft to slip as it will do in the grooved wheel -and string or leather-belt connections. It is simple and sure and quite -as easy to pay out from as to wind in with. - - - - - Chapter IX - - FISHING-TACKLE - - - Choice of Tackle - -Every boy knows how to go a-fishing, but an intelligent boy is not long -in learning that the mere getting of a lot of fish is a small part of -the pleasure. That is why he prefers the rod to the seine, one big fish -to many smaller ones, one cunning old trout or pickerel outwitted to a -basket of stupid fish that contended for the bait. Presently he begins -to desire more delicate tackle, and understands that he is fishing for -sport, not fish. I take it that the whole art and mystery of angling is -how to get the most sport and enjoyment out of it. But how? - -To begin with, no one will destroy a fish which is not dangerous to man, -nor will he fish just for amusement; in other words, he fishes only for -desirable fish. The chief things that make a fish desirable, in the -sense of a game or sport fish, are that it shall be good food, not too -common and not too easily caught. If, besides, it be beautiful and found -in beautiful places so much the better. It happens that by common -consent certain fish—salmon and trout and their kindred—are in Europe -and America esteemed above all others, and the opportunity to angle for -them is not open to every one, and most boys must get their sport with -other less-esteemed kinds. “Boys’ fish” they are sometimes slightingly -called, but they have lots of sport to give to the boy who knows how to -get it, and he will get more sport if he takes pains to make the fish -better worth catching and better worth having after it is caught. It is -better worth having, for instance, if you have caught it from the -cleanest water you have access to. Clean water makes sweet fish. If a -fish is to be kept kill it at once by a blow upon the back of the head -where the backbone joins it. This is not only more merciful but makes -firmer meat. If one is fishing from a boat or not moving about much the -fish may be kept alive in a floating live-box or basket, and at the end -of the fishing the best may be chosen for keeping and the rest let go. -Fish are sweeter, too, if cleaned as soon as possible; besides, the -cleaning is done more easily if done early. Learn to do it well -yourself, and try to be at home in time to do it before supper. Cleaning -fish by candle-light goes far to spoil the sport of a pleasant day. Do -not clean fish with your pocket-knife. Have in your kit a stout one for -the purpose which will also cut bait. Such knives made expressly are -sold for a small sum, but a veteran kitchen-knife or a broken -table-knife if kept in order will do excellent service. - -Do not throw your fish in the dirt nor let them lie in the sun nor -string them upon a twig or line if you wish them to be sweet. Have a -basket with a cover, even if the cover be no more than a newspaper. Wash -this basket and dry and air it in the sunshine if you can after every -using. All these things you should do if you wish what you catch to be -as good as it can be. - -Now, how are you to increase the sport of the catching? Of course you -want the largest fish and these are usually the oldest and the most -wary. This wariness you do not expect to change, but you hope to defeat -it. Study the habits of the fish, where and when and upon what it feeds -or what it seeks. Let your fishing be governed by your discoveries. And -while you are offering him what he wants and when and where he wants it, -remember these old fellows are fussy about their table-service. They do -not feel hungry if a boy throws his shadow across their table, or shakes -it by rushing up to it. Stalk your fish, then, as quietly as you are -able, and if you have alarmed it in any way stay out of sight and remain -as quiet as possible for a long time until your clumsiness is forgotten, -and then let your lure, whether bait or fly, drift into the fish’s sight -as if you had nothing to do with it. And remember that the finer your -tackle the more likely this pretence will be to succeed. - -You want also as good a fight as you can get. Remember that the fighting -qualities of fish are as a rule best developed in those which live in -rapid and turbulent water, and in those which pursue their prey and -catch it by their own nimbleness. But any fish will fight better if you -make the struggle more even by using delicate tackle. You win then only -by dexterity of handling, which is one of the great charms of angling, -and about the only one, as regards the mere catching of fish, on which -the experienced angler sets much value. The secret of success with -delicate tackle may be told in two words—care and coolness. Care in the -preparation of the tackle, coolness in handling it. - -When you put your tackle together you will make it far safer if you -consider it as one apparatus or machine from hook to reel and if you let -the rod top, or “tip,” be the weakest point of all, because by it you -can best determine the strain upon the whole gear. For instance, a good -line for fresh-water fishing will usually lift at least ten pounds, a -good snell at least three pounds if new, the hook more than the snell, -while the top of an ordinary light rod will rarely bear more than two -pounds of dead weight, so that you may know by the strain upon the top -joint just what the tackle is bearing; and if the joint is safe the -whole is likewise safe. - -By testing your tackle you raise your fishing from a rough-and-ready -guesswork to something like certainty, the one point of doubt being -always the security of the hook in the fish’s mouth, and even of this -you soon acquire the power of judging. But this testing is not done once -for all. Good tackle which is put away wet to mildew, or gut which is -frayed or put in the sun to rot, does not long remain sound. Therefore -dry your line, carefully unwinding it from the reel if you have one and -winding it upon a chair-back, for instance, when you come home. Look -over and test your tackle every time you are going fishing—yes, and -every time it gets caught on a stone or stump or in the bushes—if you -wish to escape the loss of your best fish. All this means that tackle to -be safe must be sound—that is, good all through. A line, for instance, -which is strong in one place and weak in another will give you more -trouble than one which is not so strong but uniform. - -The strain upon the tackle is equalized by the elasticity of the rod, -which to some extent makes up for want of dexterity. But never have a -rod so flexible that it will not control the tackle, and, above all, -avoid one which is weak in the middle. - -Lastly, let the fish do the pulling if you wish to safely handle it. No -angling-tackle is as strong as a boy. But if the rod be so held that its -spring keeps the line taut and a gentle, steady pull upon the fish the -latter soon exhausts himself fighting this elasticity. Any excess of -line not easily controlled by the rod alone should be at once taken up -by the reel. Draw the tired fish out gently, without “yanking,” or if -heavy lead it into the landing-net. - -Rods vary according to the kind of fishing, and the “all-round” -fisherman will probably have, without being finicky, as many rods as a -golf-player has clubs. But the boy for whom this is written must make -his pocket-money go as far as possible, and he will probably have but -one. Rod-making is an interesting amusement, but it would better be -deferred until one knows fairly well the use of a rod and just what kind -he wants. The making of rods is not very economical, since nowadays -factories turn out really good ones at prices little above what one must -pay for reliable rod-wood. Roughly speaking, there are two kinds of -rods, bait-rods and fly-rods. Bait-rods are nearly always stiffer than -fly-rods; the latter must have sufficient flexibility and elasticity to -throw a line quite a distance, often several times the length of the -rod. But in choosing a bait-rod a different selection will be made -according to the particular sort of fishing within reach. Thus if one -fishes ponds or wide streams from the bank, a rod a dozen feet long -would not be too long; but if from a boat, a shorter rod not above ten -feet will be more convenient. Still, shorter rods are better if bait is -to be cast long distances, as is done in minnow-casting or some kinds of -sea-fishing. A jointed-rod is convenient for carrying, but if one lives -within walking or driving distance of his fishing a rod in one piece, -such as is easily made from a slender bamboo with an elastic tip of good -wood spliced on, is as good for bait-fishing as any. If besides -bait-fishing one desires to use the fly, then the best rod is a rather -stout fly-rod about ten feet in length, because it can be used for -bait-fishing, while a bait-rod cannot be used to cast a fly. - -Beautiful and excellent rods are made of split bamboo, and some of -moderate cost, but avoid very cheap ones. But for beginners’ use the -writer prefers a solid-wood rod of good quality, because it is less -liable to injury and because of the greater ease with which it is -repaired; the boy himself may do it if he be handy. Whatever rod you -have, let the line-guides be of the sort known as “standing-guides” -rather than rings, if you have the choice. - -Lines should be sound and strong but not too heavy for the rod; twisted -lines are more easily found of good quality but braided lines kink less. -Twenty yards are quite enough for any fishing of the kind we are -considering and half as much would usually suffice. In fly-fishing for -large trout or bass the reel usually carries forty to fifty yards. - -Hooks should be of the best quality to be had. Good hooks are still -practically all made in England. Shapes which have received names are -many, and most of them have advantages for particular kinds of fishing. -Among the best are O’Shaughnessy, Limerick, Sneckbend, Aberdeen, and -Sproat. The last-named we think will meet more kinds of need than any -other one. As to size it should be remembered that the hook is to fit -the bait, not the fish’s mouth; a very small fish can take any ordinary -hook. - -A reel is not so absolutely necessary as the rod, line, and hook, but it -is a prime convenience. A well-made single-click reel is better than any -multiplier except for the one matter of making long casts from the reel, -which a beginner is not likely to do. - -For fly-casting a leader or casting-line of gut between the fly and the -main line is necessary for making a light cast, but for ordinary -bait-fishing the gut-snells which are nowadays so generally sold -attached to hook are bottom line enough. If, however, you can get some -white, gray, or cream-colored hairs from the tail of a young stallion -you can make bottom lines or leaders for light fishing without expense. - -A gaudy float is pretty sure to form part of the first angling outfit, -and it is useful to keep the bait out of the weeds and to notify the -inexperienced angler that a fish is biting. Choose one that is slender -in shape and not large. A dry stick makes a good enough extemporaneous -float, and if fish are shy may be better than a more showy one. - -For sinkers split shot B B size and buckshot or strips of thin lead, -such as comes from tea-chests, wound around the line are as good as any -and very easily gotten. - -Do not buy a bait-box. It is not so good as a bag with a draw-string, -which will allow your hand to be inserted and will also close the -aperture snugly. The same string will serve to fasten the bag to your -button-hole or creel-strap. The bag is best made of flannel. Wash it -after using. - -Worms are much better if dug a day or two before using and “scoured” by -putting them into soft moss wrung out of water. They become brighter and -firmer by scouring and are more attractive to fish. If live minnows or -small fish are used for bait, of course they must be kept in water, -which must be changed from time to time. A pail is the most convenient -vessel to carry them in. - -A landing-net is convenient if you fish for game which is heavy in -proportion to your tackle—say for fish upward of a pound in weight with -a light rod. Very low-priced ones are now sold in the shops and -sufficiently good ones can be made at home. - -We give no details about flies as their name is legion. A beginner would -better have but few kinds and of moderate size; a few hackles will -probably be all he needs. - -There are a multitude of things sold in the tackle-shops which are -tempting but not at all necessary, not to mention many which could have -been devised only by a person who was no angler. Those already spoken of -are all that seem essential. - - - Bait-rods and Fly-rods - -Probably most boys are too sensible to fall into the error which seems -to beset many adults—namely, that the possession of tackle makes an -angler. It is necessary to know how to use it. - -Begin by putting your rod together properly; put the tip into the middle -first, and then the middle into the butt. See that the ferrules are well -“home” and that the guides are all on the same side so that the line -will run freely. Place the reel, if you have one, in the reel-seat and -see that the reel-bands are snug and will not slip. Then lead off the -lines through the rings and the tip-ring. These details are the same -whatever kind of fishing is in hand; the others depend upon what is to -be done. - -Let us suppose that you are to fish with bait and that bait a worm. If -you have a short gut line—two or three feet long—it will be well to -fasten it to the end of the line and to the other end of the gut attach -the snell of the hook. But when seeking many fish which are not very -shy, the snell may be fastened directly to the line. In fishing in a -gently moving stream no lead may be needed; if the current be quick a -little will probably be required to keep the bait near the bottom. In -pond-fishing or reaches of a stream which are very quiet a float as well -as lead may be convenient. Some veteran anglers still enjoy the bobbing -of the float. The hook may be put into the side of the worm as shown at -A, or into the head as at B (Fig. 1). A is rather more attractive to the -fish; B more likely to be taken in such a way as to insure that the hook -is in the fish’s mouth. When the worm is dead or has slipped down into a -bunch at the bend of the hook no fish that you want will be likely to -take it. - -Now, do not make a splash when you put it into the water. If you have to -cast it out into still water do not use your rod and line as if it were -a thresher’s flail. Holding your rod nearly straight up, give the line a -gentle swing forward, and when the bait has swung well out reach after -it with the rod so that the bait (and float, too, if there be one) shall -fall as lightly as possible. Do not be in too great a hurry to change -its place. If you are fishing in running water, drop the bait quietly -into the water and so manage the rod that it shall neither hasten nor -hinder the movement of the bait, which should travel as nearly as -possible as it would if it were not upon a hook. All the time you are to -keep as much as possible out of sight. When you feel the pluck of the -fish drop the point of your rod and wait a second or two before you -attempt to strike the hook into the flesh. - -It sometimes happens that the place you wish to fish is so encumbered -with bushes that it cannot be approached. In such a case, if you can -find an opening in the bushes you may get at the water by shortening the -line and winding what is left around and around the top of the rod. Then -pass it through the opening, and, reaching out over the water, roll the -rod over and over in the hands until the line is unwound and the bait -goes dropping down to the water, as a spider lets himself down from his -web. If you have a bite, give the fish time to make sure of the bait. -Strike, and, when you can, shorten your line still farther if necessary -and draw your fish out. - -On the other hand, if in a fairly open place you wish to reach a point -at some distance, you may throw your bait out by pulling sufficient line -from the reel, and, gathering it in coils upon the left hand, swing the -bait out with sufficient force to carry the coils of line after it and -so reach the desired point. - -To tell in a few words how to cast a fly is hardly practicable. It is -not done by force but by knack. A cast consists of a back cast which -carries the line upward and backward, and a forward cast which propels -it towards the desired spot. The knack consists in giving with the wrist -such a quick motion to the rod as shall set its elasticity to work, and -this carries the line. One must not thrash with the rod. - -As useful a way as any to help the reader will be to describe how the -writer has tried to help lads who are learning to cast. It is in this -way: The boy takes the rod, fitted with its reel and line only, to a -water’s-edge free of bushes or trees or to a lawn recently mowed. If the -grass is slightly damp all the better as it holds the line more nearly -as does the water. He pulls off from the reel enough line so that the -free part shall be once and a half or twice the length of the rod. This -he throws out in front of him as well as he can. He then is told to keep -his elbow close against his side to prevent moving the arm above the -elbow. He then tries with a quick movement of the wrist, and with as -little movement of the forearm as possible, to lift the line upward and -backward until it straightens out behind him, and then with another -similar motion to make it go straight out before him. - -The accompanying drawing (Figs. 2 and 3) show how the wrist and thumb -really do all the work, and how little the forearm really moves in good -casting. They show, too, what should be the limits of the motion in the -butt of the rod. If it goes farther back the back cast is apt to be low -and the line if not the rod may get into trouble in bushes or grass. If -it goes farther forward the line is apt to go down with a splash. - -After this restraint of motion has become habitual the rule of holding -the elbow against the side may be relaxed a little, especially in making -long casts. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 A - Fig. 1 B - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - HOOK-BAITING AND FLY-CASTING -] - -Do not try to lift a sunken line suddenly from the water. Coax it to the -surface, as else the resistance of the line will probably snap your rod. - -Do not try to make the forward cast on just the same plane as the back -cast for fear that the end of the line should snap like a whip-lash, -which if you were actually fishing would crack off your flies pretty -certainly. Therefore make the lift of the back cast with a slight sweep -(generally inward towards the body is the more natural), and deliver the -forward cast straight out towards its destination. But always aim about -your own height above the spot on the water you mean to reach to insure -the line falling lightly. - -In all your practising remember that the key-note of good casting is in -getting a good, clean, high back cast, and in never sending the line -forward until it is quite straight out behind and above you in the back -cast. If you have with you some one to guide you as to when it is -straightened out it will be a great gain, particularly as the time -required for the straightening varies with the length of line that is -used. - -Do not try to cast a long line until you have learned to cast a short -one well; and well means not only with a high back cast and straight -forward, but also accurately as to aim and delicately. - - - Repairs, Knots, and Splices - -As has been said already it hardly pays nowadays to make one’s own -tackle, at least for a beginner. But a few things it is useful to know -so that repairs and supplies of a sort can be made in an emergency. But -emergencies are to a great degree prevented by care—by cleaning and -looking over the rod and the reel whenever you come home, and keeping it -safe. The reel may need a drop of oil now and then, and it should be -always kept out of the dust, in a box or drawer, and above all from -falls or blows. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 -] - -The repairs most commonly called for are the splicing of a broken rod, -the replacing a lost tip-ring or guide-ring, the knotting of gut, and -the putting a hook to gut. The repair-kit, to use a cyclist’s phrase, -consists of a piece of shoemaker’s wax, some moderately stout -sewing-silk—number A being the best suited for quick work of all -sorts—some bits of flexible brass wire, and a pocket-knife. As the -method of wrapping used in all repairs is essentially the same let us -begin with the simplest, the putting the hook to gut. - -First wax well a piece of silk half a yard or more in length. Choose -your hook and the piece of gut (or line if you do not use gut) to which -it is to be fastened. Take the bend of the hook firmly between the left -thumb and forefinger and with the right take two or three turns of the -silk about the other end of the shank (Fig. 4 A). Then lay the gut on -the under side of the hook, reaching two-thirds down the shank, and wind -the silk snugly, coil against coil, over both hook and gut towards the -bend of the hook B. When the gut is nearly covered make a loop as at C, -but relatively larger than in the figure and keep on winding so that the -part _a_ covers in not only hook and gut but the part _b_, clearing the -silk from the bend of the hook at each turn. When four or five turns -have been taken draw on _c_ and pull it snug. (D shows the loop not -quite drawn down.) When snug cut off the end and you have the “invisible -knot” or “whip-finish” universally used by fishermen. The same whipping -and finish are used for the other repairs mentioned above. - -Suppose that a joint of the rod has broken with a slanting break. It may -be that the surfaces can be fitted together neatly. In this case they -may be joined at once, but if any part has been lost or broken away, -then the broken surfaces must be trimmed and smoothed with the knife -until they do fit. They are spliced thus: Rub the surfaces with your -shoemaker’s wax, press them together, and if you cannot easily hold -them, tie them temporarily with a piece of string, or perhaps still -better, make open coils over the joined parts as at A in Fig. 4. Then -wind back over these coils and the joined parts, making close, snug -coils just as you did on the hook. The whip-finish must be managed a -little differently. Fig. 5 shows how this is done. When ready to finish -drop a loop and make four or five loose turns. Carry the end under the -beginning of the loop, wind down the loose coils firmly, and pull the -end through as before. - -A lost tip-ring or guide-ring can be made good by a piece of wire bent -into proper shape and whipped on with well waxed silk thread. - -We need say but a few words about knots. In order to knot your gut it -must be first softened, which is done by laying it in water; it softens -much more rapidly in lukewarm water than in cold. Two lengths of gut are -joined together by lapping the end of one by the end of the other and -making a knot in both together. Fig. 6 A shows this knot, only the end -is put through twice for greater security. If the fishing is such as -does not need strong tackle a single knot will suffice. - -A loop at the end of a piece of gut is made by making the knot as at B, -which is the commonly used knot. - -A better knot is that shown at C, which looks complicated as drawn, but -really is not so, as in tying it the two loops _a_ and _b_ are made, the -end _c_ laid between them, and then _b_ is drawn through _a_. - -D shows the ordinary simple method of fastening a line to the loop of a -leader or of a snell. It is the “becket hitch” of the seaman. It -explains itself. Its great advantage is that it cannot slip if drawn -down snugly and can be instantly loosened by pushing the main line back -a little way. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6] - - - Aids for Young Anglers - -How often has it happened that on reaching a camping-ground, hotel, or -boarding-house near river or lake where pickerel, bass, and large perch -abounded no provision is found for the angler’s sport but a boat—no -lines, sinkers, or floats; no nets for catching live bait, and no bait -but worms. For sunfish, catfish, and small perch, worms are very fair -bait; but for pickerel, bass, and large perch live bait is best. Here -are some makeshifts and aids that may be gotten up at short notice and -at small expense. - -Fig. 7 is an end-section of a mosquito-net seine for taking live bait. -The length of the seine is thirty-eight feet, depth five feet. The -“cork-line” A A consists of a small-sized clothes-line. Corks not always -being obtainable, I have used pieces of thoroughly seasoned white pine -three inches in length and one inch in diameter (C C C). Through these -rounded pieces of wood holes are bored through which the clothes-line -passes. These floats are placed eight inches apart and are kept in -position by the clothes-line fitting tightly in the holes. At the bottom -of the seine another clothes-line is sewed to the netting (B B). This is -called the “lead line” and is for the purpose of keeping the lower part -of the seine close to the bottom of the water. In the lead line pieces -of sheet-lead one inch in length are fastened (H H H) twenty-eight -inches apart. The “staff” D is a well-seasoned piece of hickory six feet -long, to the lower end of which sheet-lead is also fastened at E to keep -it down. To the staff is attached the staff line F F F, thirty feet -long, which is for the purpose of drawing in the seine after it has been -cast. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 -] - -A seine of this size is generally worked by two persons and two boats. -Each person takes one of the staff lines in his boat, and rowing towards -the shore with the extended seine describes a semicircle between the -boats. As the shore is approached each boat closes in, thereby causing -the two staffs to meet and imprison all the fish that have come within -the bounds of the seine. When one person works the seine one of the -staff lines is tied to a rock or stake on the shore and the other line -is taken into a boat, or the operator wades out and causes his end of -the seine to describe a circle until the two shafts meet. Great care -must be taken to keep the lead line close to the bottom otherwise the -fish will escape. In the selection of the seining-ground always avoid -stony bottoms, snags, and brush, which will cause the seine to “roll up” -and tear. - -The cost of the above-described seine ranges from three to four dollars, -and is capable of lasting two seasons if carefully handled and spread -out on the grass to dry after using it. A much superior article to -mosquito-net is bobinet, which will last several seasons. - -Fig. 8 is a bait-boat for keeping the bait alive. It is towed behind or -kept by the side when fishing. The top and bottom pieces consist of -half-inch pine; in the centre of each piece square openings are cut; -that on the top is protected by a door made of wire-cloth or -quarter-inch mesh fastened to two small staples which answer the purpose -of hinges; over the opening in the bottom piece wire-cloth is nailed to -admit of a free circulation of water. Under the back end of the top -piece a cleat is nailed, also two cleats on the bottom piece as shown in -the drawing. At the bow of the boat an upright piece of wood is fastened -to the top and bottom of the bait-boat by means of screws. The sides of -the boat consist of one piece of wire-cloth, the ends of which meet at -the upright piece of wood at the bow and are nailed with broad-headed -galvanized nails. The top and bottom of the wire-cloth are also fastened -with nails to the edges of the top and bottom of the boat as shown in -the drawing. A tow-line is fastened to the bow and the boat is complete. - -When handling the bait a small hand-net (Fig. 9) is used, consisting of -a stout piece of wire as shown in the drawing. The straight parts of the -wire are bound together with fishing-line and constitute the handle; to -this frame netting is sewed to form the net-bag. - -For a makeshift float nothing is better than a good-sized bottle-cork -into which a cut has been made with a sharp knife or razor extending -from the side to the centre of the cork. Into this cut the line is drawn -as shown in Fig. 10 A. - -Sheet-lead is always a useful aid in makeshift fishing-tackle, and for -light lines makes excellent sinkers when bent and compressed around the -line as shown at Fig. 10 B. - -For cleaning out a boat a stiff whisk-broom made of fine birch twigs -bound together with wire or fishing-line, as shown at Fig. 11, will be -found very useful. - -Fig. 12 A and B are hand-made sinkers beaten and carved out of old lead -pipe. The carved one, B, is first roughed out with a jack-knife and -finished up with fine emery or sand paper. A is beaten into shape with a -railroad spike on an anvil or smooth stone. This beating and carving of -lead is very pleasant work, the lead being of such an easy and -good-natured temper. - -For a cheap and easy-obtainable bailer make use of an empty tomato or -corned-beef can as shown in Fig. 13. A hole sufficiently large to admit -of the handle is punched in the side of the can; the inside of the -handle is chamfered off so as to fit close to the inner side of the can. -Through the can and into the end of the handle a stout nail is driven as -at A. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 A - Fig. 12 B - Fig. 13 - Fig. 14 - SOME USEFUL HINTS -] - -A good bait for large fish is a strip cut from the under side of a small -pickerel, perch, or sunfish, which is placed on the hook as shown in -Fig. 14. - - - Baits, and Where to Find Them - -As a rule, the young fisherman naturally considers the angle-worm to be -the only bait he need have when he goes fishing, and, taking a spade, he -seeks a moist, loamy spot in the garden and proceeds to fill his box. -But there is a choice even in worms, and those of a clear, dark, amber -color are the best. - -Just at night, and after a soft, warm rain, worms of the size of a -lead-pencil will be found crawling over the ground. These are excellent -bait for bass, chub, perch, and large trout early in the season. If you -step very lightly, so as not to jar the ground, you can easily pick up a -box of these large fellows. - -It is well enough to have worms with you on all occasions, but there are -many other baits. Frogs, crabs, grubs, dobsons, minnows, June-bugs, -grasshoppers, and crickets, as well as artificial baits, are more -successful lures with certain fish. A few words telling where to find -these baits and the proper manner of keeping them fresh and lively may -prove of value. - -Frogs are most plentiful on the shores of ponds or streams filled with -plant growth, and in low, moist places in meadows. In searching for them -in grass, wait till you see one jump, then catch it in your hands. They -are not so easily gotten from the shores, as they are apt to take to the -water at the first alarm. - -Crabs are usually found under stones along the shores of a stream or -pond, and in some localities in low, moist places in grass-lands. Seize -the crab back of the pincers and it cannot nip you. - -Dobsons are only found under mossy stones in swift-running waters. They -are of a dark-gray color, have many legs, and when fully grown are about -three inches long. The head is shield-shaped and armed with good, stout -pincers, so handle the dobson as you would a crab. The best way to get a -supply of dobsons is to have some one hold one edge of a fine-meshed net -on the bottom of the stream while you turn over the stones above the net -with a hoe. The dobsons, loosing their hold on the bottom, will be -carried by the current into the net. Put frogs, crabs, and dobsons into -a pail with plenty of grass and some water. If you are to keep them for -some time change the water occasionally. - -Grubs are excellent bait for trout early in the season. They are found -in partially decayed tree-trunks, stumps, and old timbers left in moist -places. Cut into the wood with an axe, and if you find it full of holes -of the size of a lead-pencil, knock it to pieces and pick out the grubs. -Put them in a tin bait-box with some of the rotten wood you found them -in. - -Minnows of a size suitable for perch and bass fishing can usually be -procured from a spring hole or the pools of a small stream. Take a -rather baggy net with a small mesh, and after setting it at one end of -the pool drive the minnows into it by striking on the water with a pole -and punching about on the bottom. If you stir up the water the little -fish will drive more easily. If your supply must be procured from a lake -or pond, look among the shallows close inshore until you have found a -school, then draw a small seine around them. Large minnows for pickerel -or pike fishing can be caught with a hook and line. Those you are to use -for skittering had better be packed in salt. The minnows you would keep -alive should be put into the bait-pail as soon as caught. Bait-pails, as -usually made, consist of one pail freely perforated with holes to be set -into a tight outer pail. By this arrangement the water can be changed -frequently without inconveniencing the little fellows. If the bait is to -be carried some distance, and there is no chance to change the water, -pack the space between the two pails loosely with grass. The water -trickling down through the grass will take up the air needed by the -fish. - -Crickets are to be found under stones, loose sods, and old planks. -Select the largest you can find. June-bugs, sometimes called May-bugs, -hide through the heat of the day among the leaves of the trees, and -sometimes by shaking a tree quite a number will fall to the ground. -Grasshoppers are plentiful in meadow and pasture lands, and may easily -be caught in the hands. Put June-bugs, crickets, and grasshoppers in a -wide-mouthed bottle loosely stuffed with grass. Do not cork the bottle -tight. - -I never esteemed artificial baits, such as the rubber frog and crab, -very highly. It is impossible to give the semblance of life to them in -the water, and most game fish prefer live food to dead. The spoon-hook -and the artificial fly, however, have proved their worth. The spoon -should be of a size in keeping with the size of the game fished for, and -it is well enough to have two—one bright, for use early in the morning -and late in the afternoon and on dark days, the other dull-colored for -use in the brightest part of the day. It is an excellent plan to bait a -spoon-hook with a large worm, a minnow, or a piece of meat; then if the -fish strikes and misses the hook it may get a portion of the bait and -will strike again with truer aim. - -There are many other things that can be used for bait, which are to be -found only in your locality. What they are you can learn by observation -and experiment. One can always learn something. Only recently I -discovered that bass were fond of darning-needles. - -Sometimes the fish have very fickle appetites, and it is well to have as -many kinds of bait as you can conveniently carry. It is also a good plan -to open the stomach of the first fish you catch, and offer to its -companions the same kind of food found inside of it. - - - A Trap for Small Fish - -Many of the boys and girls who live near the sea-side are interested in -making and stocking aquariums, and many, no doubt, have experienced the -same difficulty which I did when I used to stock aquariums myself. - -I always found that the scoop-net which we use to catch the fish with is -good enough for certain kinds of minnows, but there are others which are -too lively or too shy to be caught in that way; so I set to work to -devise some plan for their capture. I claim no originality for this -trap—it is hundreds of years old; but as it answered my purpose better -than anything else, I used it. The way I made it was as follows: - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 - Fig. 17 -] - -I took a piece of wire-netting about three feet square and bent it so as -to form a tube three feet long and about one foot in diameter (Fig. 15). -I then took two other strips of wire-netting, three feet long at the -top, one foot wide, and two feet at the bottom (Fig. 16); these I bent -into funnel shape. I sewed one funnel in about the middle of my cylinder -and another in one end, as shown in Fig. 15, strengthening them in their -position with strings from the small ends to the sides of the cylinder. -The other end of the cylinder I closed with a piece of strong bagging so -sewed on that there was a space left at one side which could be untied -when I wished to empty the trap. - -The manner of setting the trap is as simple as its manufacture. A -handful of clams or mussels, crushed so that the minnows can get at the -flesh, is thrown in between the first and second funnels. The fish, -little crabs, small eels, and the like, go in, and when they try to get -out they find it much easier to swim through the second funnel than to -find the small hole in the first. I have had several of these traps, or -“pots,” as the fishermen call them, in operation at one time, and have -caught as many as half a bushel of small fish in one night. - -The trap can be made by making a frame of hoops and lath and covering it -with mosquito-netting, but it is not so desirable as the fine wire, -being more easily torn. - - - A Water-turtle Trap - -Some time ago, while spending the summer in the country, I began the -pleasing amusement of making an aquarium. I used various methods to -procure the inmates of the great glass box which I had made for the -purpose, and was successful, except that I could not get a water-turtle. -There they would lie on logs in the pond sunning themselves, but the -moment I came within reaching distance, plump they would go into the -water. At last I took an old soap-box, and after carefully removing one -end I nailed on the cover. I then fastened the end to the cover by -hinges, so that it would swing inward, and after throwing in a few bones -and scraps of meat, I sunk the box in the pond close beside a big log -where the turtles were accustomed to sun themselves. I put a heavy stone -on the box, so as to keep it steady, and awaited the next morning for -developments. Fig. 17. - -Here I may say that this trap takes advantage of a peculiarity in the -nature of the water-turtle—namely, if there is a log or stone that he -cannot get under, that is just the place that he wants to get; and I -calculated that the slight resistance offered by my swinging door would -be just enough to make the turtles determined to get into my box. The -next morning when I went to my trap I found several turtles of all -sizes, from one tiny, yellow-spotted fellow, or mud-turtle, not larger -than a half-dollar, to an ugly, great snapper as big as your hat, and so -ill-tempered that I let him go again, glad enough at having got rid of -so troublesome a visitor. After that I set my trap several times and -caught a number of turtles. The smaller ones furnish a charming addition -to an aquarium, and the larger ones, if properly dressed, make a capital -stew. - - - An Eel-pot - -All along the Atlantic coast eel-pots are made on the same general plan, -a bottle-shaped basket having a funnel fitted at the bottom and provided -with a hat that is held on by two straps of green oak. - -Three forms are used on which to build up the basket-work. The large -form is usually ten inches in diameter and shaped down to eight inches -at the top or neck. This form is two feet long and has a round stick -driven in the small end. This in turn rests in a hole bored in a solid -piece of plank, so that it is held in an inverted position and revolves -in the hole. Green oak is used for the ribs and bands. This is cut as -straight and free from knots as possible, and is soaked in water for -weeks before it is split and slivered. Green oak will sliver in an even -and uniform manner if it is started right, and from the trunk of an -oak-tree six inches in diameter enough material can be had to make -several dozen eel-pots. The ribs are three-quarters of an inch wide and -about one-eighth of an inch thick, while the bands are a trifle thinner -and wider. A number of the ribs are tied around the form as shown in -Fig. 18, and beginning at the bottom the bands are woven in and out -around the form, turning it as the work progresses so that the immediate -parts are always in sight. Where the ends join they are shaved down thin -so that one laps over the other; then the weaving continues until the -top is reached. The ends of the ribs are then shaved thin and bent back -and slipped under some of the straps. A thin ribbon of the oak is sewed -over and over around the edge to finish it. The top or small end of the -basket is finished in a similar manner. - -The cone or funnel form is fifteen inches long, nine inches in diameter -at the large end, and tapers down to two inches at the bottom as shown -in Fig. 19. Ribs are tied to this form the same as in the case of the -large one, and the weaving begins at the bottom and is carried to the -top, where the ends of the ribs are shaved and turned in as before -described. The bottom or small end of the funnel is the trap, and here -the long, thin ends of the ribs are left, so that the eel, when he goes -through the funnel and into the pot, cannot get back again. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 18 - Fig. 19 - Fig. 20 - Fig. 21 - Fig. 22 - Fig. 23 - Fig. 24 -] - -The hat is woven the same as a basket by crossing the ribs and adding a -half-rib from the centre anywhere on the circle, so as to make an uneven -number of ribs; thus the weaving will not duplicate after the first turn -around the circle. This extra rib is shown at A in Fig. 20. A hat form, -shown in Fig. 21, is made of wood and mounted on a block so that it will -revolve the same as the other forms. When a part of the hat is woven it -is placed on the form and two small nails driven through the ribs into -the form to hold the weaving in place. It is then shaped down over the -rounded edges of the form and carried one or two inches below the form -so the lower edges of the ribs can be shaved and bent easily. A long -strap of the green oak is passed under one of the ribs in the hat and -caught under bands of the body as shown in the drawing of a complete -eel-pot. Fig. 22. - -The funnel is sewed to the bottom edge of the body with thin bands. As -soon as the pots are finished they should be sunk in shallow water to -keep them wet and get them thoroughly water-soaked. - -Stakes or poles are to be driven or worked down into the bottom of the -bay and the eel-pots made fast to them with ropes. To bait an eel-pot -crack some hard-shell crabs or shrimp or put some pieces of fresh, raw -meat within the pot and drop it overboard. Run the pots morning and -night, and remove the eels by unstrapping the cap and dumping them into -a barrel which may be carried on the boat. - - - A Scap-net - -A scap-net for crabbing or landing fish on a hook may be made from a -ring of heavy galvanized iron driven into the end of a hard-wood stick. -Scap-nets may be purchased in most any general store near a bay or pond, -but the ingenious boy can make one himself from a hoop and a ball of -cotton twine. Hang long pieces of string over the ring and tie them fast -with a square knot. Then tie one string with its next neighbor all -around the circle. Begin lower down and tie them again, and continue in -this manner until the net resembles Fig. 23. When it is seven or eight -inches deep begin to shape it in at the bottom by making the meshes or -openings smaller so that it will have a rounded bottom. The ends of the -string should be tied together or over a small galvanized-iron -sail-ring. All the strings should be tied in square knots so that they -will not become undone after the net has been used for a while. - - - A Hoop Drop-net - -A hoop drop-net such as shown at Fig. 24 may easily be made from three -galvanized-wire rings and a mesh of tied string as described for the -scap-net. The hoops should be eighteen inches in diameter and separated -ten inches, thus making a net twenty inches deep. A mesh is to be formed -across the bottom, and at the top six small ropes are tied and the ends -brought together fifteen or twenty inches above the top ring. - -Place some crushed crab or any good bait in the bottom of the net and -slowly lower it until the rings rest on the bottom of the bay or pond, -but keep the small ropes clear from the net. Watch through the water for -visitors, and when the right subject is at the bait and within the rings -give a quick jerk and pull the net rapidly to the surface. If fish are -to be caught in this manner the hoops should be larger and one more -added to the net, making it thirty inches deep. Fish are cunning and -swift, and will often dart up and over the top hoop faster than you can -haul it up. - - - - - Chapter X - - LAND-YACHTS AND PUSHMOBILES - - - A Land-yacht - -A few years ago the only kind of yacht known to the boys were those that -sailed in the water, but in this advanced time, when many unheard-of -things have been made possible, the land-yacht has made its welcome -appearance. Down on the Southern coasts, particularly Florida and -California, where the sand packs fine and hard, the land-yacht is an -important feature both for pleasure and business, and if properly -handled in a good breeze it will run from ten to twenty miles an hour. -No end of fun can be had with a properly constructed boat, and the -ingenious boy may employ old baby-carriage or bicycle wheels for the -running-gear. - -A yacht of medium size can be made on the lines of Fig. 1 at a -comparatively small cost for the timbers and sail-cloth, spars and -hardware. The leg-of-mutton sail is used in preference to the square -sail, as it has the greatest area close to the ground and is less liable -to upset and much easier to handle. - -To begin with, obtain some spruce joist clear-grained and free from -knots. They should be two-by-four inches and twelve feet long. Cut one -of them eight feet long and use it for the main cross-piece to which the -front wheels are attached. Form a V of two twelve-foot joist, and fasten -them to the cross-piece as shown in Fig. 2. About ten inches of each -piece should project beyond the cross-piece. The timbers are bolted fast -and at the rear end they are bevelled and brought together, then bolted -through from side to side as shown in the plan (Fig. 2). Three feet back -of the long cross-piece a shorter timber is set in between the V-shaped -frame as shown at A. At the middle of this timber a hole one inch and a -half square is cut and into it a tenon on the butt-end of the bowsprit -fits as shown in Fig. 3. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1] - -The bowsprit is seven feet long and is bolted fast to the long -cross-piece. Where the end fits into the timber A two angle-blocks are -nailed fast. Seat-planking is cut and screwed or nailed fast to the -V-shaped frame as shown in both Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. The boards should be -ten inches wide and cut to overhang the timbers an inch or two at both -ends. - -If the wheels from an old baby-carriage are to be used the axle should -be cut in half with a hack-saw and each part clamped under an end of the -cross-timber with U-shaped clamps having the ends threaded and provided -with nuts and washers as shown at Fig. 4. The rear or steering wheel is -set in a fork that a blacksmith will make from strap-iron, and a round -piece of the same metal, having a square-headed upper end, will do for -the rudder-post as shown at Fig. 5. A short axle threaded at both ends -and provided with nuts will hold the wheel in place, and when the post -is passed up through a hole made in the timbers a tiller can be slipped -over the square shoulder and bolted fast so that it will stay in place. - -The tiller is of hard-wood two inches broad at the rear end, one inch in -thickness, and tapered so that it will be about an inch square with the -corners rounded where it is grasped by the hand. The handle part of it -should be bound with linen cord to improve the grip. Give the deck -wood-work and timbering a few coats of red, buff, or light-green paint. - -The mast-step is rigged over the forward cross-timber. Two upright -pieces of board twenty inches long and eight inches wide are attached to -the outside edges of the frame-joist with screws. On top of these a -cross-piece is made fast so that the step presents the appearance of a -bench. Two pieces of board six inches wide are fastened from the corners -down to the bowsprit and cross-timber to brace the step as shown at Fig. -6. An iron brace is made fast to the top of the step, behind the mast, -and to the bowsprit, as may be seen in the illustration. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 -] - -A hole three inches in diameter is cut at the middle of the step-board, -and through this the mast is slipped. A half-inch round iron is driven -into the bottom of the mast after a hole has been bored with a bit. It -should be long enough to project out about two inches. This steps into a -hole bored in the top of the bowsprit, and with the three wire stays -that are caught at the top of the mast and into the eye-bolts, shown by -the arrow-heads in Fig. 2, the mast is held securely in place. - -A round pole fourteen feet long may be used for the mast, but if it is -impossible to find one a very good mast can be dressed from a -three-inch-square spruce stick that is free from large knots or cracks. -The dressing may be done with a draw-knife and plane, and near the upper -end it should be tapered. - -The boom is sixteen feet long and two inches in diameter, and if it is -possible to get a long curtain-pole it will answer very well; otherwise -it will be necessary to cut it from a two-inch-square spruce stick. - -The mast end of the boom is provided with a crotch made with two jaws as -shown at Fig 7. They are cut from hard-wood with a draw-knife and -compass-saw, and held to the boom with carriage bolts or screws and -string bound round the three parts. - -The sail is made of heavy, unbleached muslin that can be had at a -dry-goods store for ten cents a yard. It may be sewed by hand or on a -machine, and through the middle it would be well to take a lop so as to -make a strengthening rib. The sail measures ten feet on the mast, -fifteen feet on the boom, and eighteen feet on the leach. It is caught -to the boom with stout cord and to the mast with wood or iron rings, and -with a halyard and pulley at mast-head the sail may be raised and -lowered at will. - -In localities where there are hard roads and where the wind has a good -sweep these land-yachts have become very popular. Of course they are -much safer than water-boats for there is no danger of drowning, and it -is quite impossible to capsize a land-yacht if the cross-timber is long -enough to give the wheels a good spread. - -Wheels with rubber tires will make the running motion easier and so add -to the owner’s comfort. - - - A Sail-wagon - -For level streets or sidewalks where trees do not interfere and where -the walks are wide, a sail-wagon will afford much amusement. - -In the drawing (Fig. 8) a sail-wagon of medium size and simple -construction is shown. Obtain a pine, white-wood, or spruce plank -fifteen inches wide and about one inch thick. It should be planed on one -or both sides and measure eight feet long. Round the ends with a -compass-saw and build a bridge for the mast, as shown in the drawing. -This bridge should be twelve inches high, eighteen inches long, and -eight inches wide, and should be braced underneath with angle-brackets. -In the middle of the top board cut a hole three inches in diameter, and -directly under it, in the plank, bore a half-inch hole for the mast-pin -to step into. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - A SAIL-WAGON -] - -One foot back from the front end arrange an axle-bar three feet long and -two by three inches thick. Make another bar the same size for the rear -axle but do not bolt it fast. This must be arranged on a king-bolt so -that it can be turned by a post and tiller. The king-bolt and post -should be in one piece, and this will have to be made by a blacksmith. -Two round iron plates of metal one-eighth of an inch thick and five -inches in diameter are provided with screw-holes at the outer edge and -with round holes at the middle. One of these plates is to be attached to -the middle of the axle, as shown at Fig. 9 A, and the other to the under -side of the plank in the middle and about ten inches in from the end. A -hole is to be bored and cut three-quarters of an inch square in the -axle-tree, and the holes in both iron plates are also three-quarters of -an inch in diameter. Have a blacksmith make an iron post eight inches -long and three-quarters of an inch in diameter. A piece of iron should -be welded at the lower end so as to make it three-quarters of an inch -square for a distance of three inches. At the top form a square shoulder -an inch long, and above it have a short round shank threaded to take a -nut as shown in Fig. 9 B. Drive this shaft up through the square hole in -the axle-tree, and to prevent it from dropping nail a piece of wood or -tin over the end of it and to the under side of the tree. Slip the round -post up through the plate and board so that it extends several inches -above the top of the board. Make a tiller of hard-wood fifteen inches -long and three inches wide at the post-end and taper it to the handle. -Cut a square hole in the broad end to fit over the square shoulder on -the iron post, then screw the nut on over a washer to hold the tiller in -place. To prevent the tiller from splitting near the hole it would be -best to bind the wood at both ends of the hole with copper wire as shown -in Fig. 9 C. When the wagon is in motion a turn of the handle will -operate the axle and steer the moving vehicle easily. - -The wheels should be all the same size, but if they cannot be had and -only a pair of large and small ones are available place the smaller ones -at the rear. The axle need not run the entire length of the axle-tree, -but shorter pieces may be bolted fast to the ends of the trees. Give the -wagon two or three coats of paint and it will then be ready for use. - -From spruce or pine cut a mast five feet long and three inches in -diameter, using a draw-knife and plane to shape it. Taper the stick at -the top, place an iron band about the bottom, and drive a half-inch iron -pin into a hole bored in the bottom so that two or three inches of it -will project. The foot of the mast is to be slipped through the hole in -the bridge and the pin stepped into the hole made in the long board -directly under it. From two-inch spruce cut a sprit seven feet long and -a boom seven feet long with a crotch formed at one end, as described in -the boat chapter. The sprit acts as a gaff, and at the same time it does -away with halyards and makes it possible to use a shorter and stouter -stick for the mast. - -From unbleached muslin make a sail three feet and six inches on the -mast, six feet on the boom, three feet at the head, and seven feet on -the leach. A sail of this proportion will set properly, and when the -peak is jacked up with the sprit the boom will clear the boy on the deck -when it swings over. To stiffen the sail bind the outer edge with thin -rope or cotton line a trifle smaller than clothes-line. - - - A Pushmobile - -The pushmobile (Fig. 10) is another interesting road or sidewalk car and -one with which two boys can share considerable fun. In general -appearance the pushmobile resembles something between an automobile and -a buck-board, as there is a long reach between the fore and aft wheels. -The body consists of a long board one inch and a quarter in thickness, -eighteen or twenty inches wide, and seven feet long. Or two nine-inch -planks may be fixed together with the battens that hold the axles and a -shorter one under the seat. At the front of the body a keg is mounted -and held fast with iron straps which go over the top of the keg and are -fastened to the sides of the large board as may be seen in Fig. 10. This -keg will represent the engine cover, and at either side of it and -mounted on the board two tin cans arranged with glass at the front will -serve as lamps. By perforating the tops and sides of these cans a candle -may be used or bicycle lamps may be substituted for them. The glass is -fitted to the cans by bending a piece of spring-wire in a circle and -placing it within the can. Against this wire a circular piece of glass -will rest, and to hold it in place another wire may be slipped within -the can. If large baking-powder or coffee cans are used the greater -portion of the cap may be cut away with a tin-shears, leaving a rim and -flange just wide enough to hold the glass in place. - -The seat is made from a box eighteen inches wide and high and arranged -with back and sides which can be built up six inches above the seat as -shown in Fig. 10. This seat is to be securely attached to the board with -long screws driven up through the under side of the board and into the -lower part of the box. The steering-shaft and wheel are arranged about -one foot in front of the seat. This is a shaft of hard-wood (such as a -curtain-pole or any good tough stick) about one inch and a half square -or in diameter. It mounts on a block of wood which is screwed fast to -the large board and provided with a hole through which the shaft will -pass so that it will extend down through the large board. A collar of -wood or iron is slipped down over the shaft and screwed fast to it so as -to prevent it from slipping down too far. Another collar is provided and -made fast at the bottom to prevent the steering-cable from slipping off. -The arrangement of the collars and wire is shown at Fig. 11 A. At the -top of the shaft a small wooden wheel should be slipped on over a shank -that may be cut down in size to fit the opening in the wheel; and with a -screw the wheel is to be made fast to the shaft so that it is held -securely in place. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 -] - -The rear wheels are attached to an axle that in turn is bolted fast to a -bar of wood eighteen inches long and two by three inches in thickness. -These wheels are held in a fixed position, and the bar to which they are -attached is located about a foot in from the end of the long board. The -front axle is bolted to a movable bar which is held to another bar by a -king-bolt, so that the lower axle-bar can turn in the same way as on a -wagon. The bar to which the axle and movable bar are attached is located -about one foot from the front of the long board. This arrangement can be -seen at Fig. 12, which is a front view showing axle and fifth wheel, as -the turn-plate between the axle-tree and the body of the wagon is -called. The fifth wheel is made of two pieces of tire-iron, one fastened -to the under side of the fixed bar, the other to the top of the -axle-tree, so that when greased the lower part will turn easily. - -Flexible wire-cable or very strong twine should be used for the -steering-gear. The ends are made fast to the axle-tree as shown at A in -Fig. 12. Several wraps of the wire or twine are taken about the lower -end of the shaft, and the wire passes through a hole to prevent it from -slipping. The wire should be attached first at one end of the tree, -carried to the shaft, and given several turns, then passed through the -hole. Several more turns are to be made above the hole, then the loose -end should be attached to the other end of the axle-tree. If a small -turn-buckle can be had, make it fast to the wire and axle at one end so -as to draw the wire taut and hold it in place, for the tighter the wire -the better the shaft will act when turned by the wheel. - -A brake is to be made fast at one side of the car as shown in Fig. 10. -Have a blacksmith turn a piece of one-inch thin tire-iron for you as -shown at Fig. 11 B, and bore two holes at the short end and two larger -ones farther up as indicated in the drawing. With screws attach a -brake-block to the short end, and with a square-headed lag-screw make -this brake-bar fast to a block fastened at the under side of the long -board so that the lever and brake-block will act on the tire of the -wheel. The hand-bar is of iron twenty-four inches long and provided with -a hole at the lower end and another one six inches above it. The upper -end of the bar is drawn out on the anvil so that a wooden handle can be -slipped on it, then it is bolted to a block attached to the lower front -side of the seat as shown in the illustration. A stout wire connects the -lower end of the hand-bar with the top of the brake-bar, so that when -the handle is pulled back the wire and top end of the brake-bar is drawn -forward and the block pressed against the wheel. - -Several coats of paint will give this pushmobile a good appearance and -it will then be ready for use. - -One boy on the seat steers the machine, while another grasps the -overhanging edges of the long board and pushes as he runs behind. On -level sidewalks or streets a good run and push will send the car along -at a good speed and the pusher can then jump on behind. When going -downhill both boys can ride, and if the driver has his hands full with -the wheel and shaft the boy behind can reach forward and operate the -brake. - -If coasting is done on very steep hills or roads it would be well to -have a brake to operate on both rear wheels, for the momentum of a -rapidly moving car will often drag a “dead” wheel if the other three are -running easily; whereas if both back wheels are “dead” the car can be -brought to a quick stop. - - - - - Chapter XI - - FIRE-ENGINES AND TRUCKS - - - The Engine - -Every boy is interested in fire-engines and fires, and in the absence of -the real thing there is a great deal of fun to be had in playing fire. -The regular steam apparatus is rather beyond a boy’s constructive -ability, but the engine shown in the illustration (Fig. 1) can easily be -made from an oil or pork barrel, a keg, a pump, and a set of old wagon -wheels. A box may be used for the seat and a small force-pump may be had -at a hardware store for a nominal sum. The pump should be fitted with a -hose-coupling at both inlet and outlet, so that a piece of garden hose -can be used for the suction and force. - -The construction of the body part of the engine is shown in Fig. 2. Two -rails six inches wide, seven-eighths of an inch thick, and six feet long -are set wide enough apart for the barrel (representing the boiler) to -fit between. These pieces are securely attached with stout screws to the -barrel so that a foot of each rail will extend beyond the rear of the -barrel. At both ends a rail corresponding in width and thickness is cut -and fitted between the ends of the rails as shown at A A. These are to -be held in position with long, steel-wire nails or with screws, which -always make the best and most secure joints. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 -] - -To prevent the side-rails from spreading, a cross-rib should be made -fast to the under side of the side-rails about at the middle as shown at -B B. This is a precaution taken to prevent the rails spreading and -letting the heavy barrel full of water drop. In addition to the screws -that are driven through the side-rails and into the barrel, it would be -well to screw a batten fast at each side over the rail as shown at C. -This lug will help the bearing and take the strain from the screws in -the rails. - -The truss which holds the keg, or imitation dry-steam chest, is made of -strips four inches wide, seven-eighths of an inch thick, and built up so -that the angle stands fifteen inches above the top of the side-rails as -shown at D. These trusses are securely bound at the angle with screws or -clinch-nails, then screwed fast to the inside of the rails as shown at -E E. Cut a short piece of board and nail it fast between these -truss-knees to act as a platform on which to stand the keg. Another -small platform can be made between the truss and barrel on one or both -sides of the apparatus to accommodate one or two pumps. The smoke-pipe -at the top of the barrel is cut from an old stove-pipe and is shaped as -shown in Fig. 1. With a tin-shears or snips the ears are cut at top and -bottom. Those at the top are pointed and give a crown effect, but if the -plain-rim top is preferred do not cut the pipe. At the bottom, slits are -cut in the pipe two inches in from the edge, about three-quarters of an -inch apart, and with a flat-nosed pliers the ears are bent out so that -they will lie flat on the barrel-top when the smoke-pipe is set in -place. A piece of tin or zinc is placed on the barrel-head under the -smoke-pipe, and with large tacks the pipe is then made fast. - -When running to a fire some shavings, chips, or cotton on which some -paraffine has been melted is put in this smoke-pipe and lit, and as the -engine is drawn along the sparks and smoke will shoot out from the top -of the pipe in a very realistic manner. The seat is made of a box on top -of which a back and side-arms are arranged as shown in Fig. 1, and when -it is complete it is attached to the side-rails and truss. The upper -edges of the side-rails are decked over in front of the box so as to -make a platform, and at the front end of the frame a dash-board is -arranged and held in position with battens. - -A small, water-tight keg is fastened to the platform between the knees -of the truss by means of screws passed up through the bottom of the -platform and into the under side of the keg. One or two openings are -made in the keg and a hose-coupling driven into them so that the long -hose may be attached when at a fire. Short lengths of hose and couplings -extend from the top of the pumps to the keg, so that when the pumps are -in action the water is forced into the keg and out through the openings. -There will always be a cushion of air above the water which is more or -less elastic, and when the water is forced in faster than it can escape -through the nozzles the air-cushion will take care of the pressure -automatically. - -Small carriage wheels and axles support the frame, and at the front a -fifth wheel is arranged so that the front wheels can be turned. Back of -the barrel the frame is decked at the under side so as to make a -fuel-box where more smoke and spark making materials can be stored. It -would be well to fasten a lid to this compartment so that sparks -dropping from the smoke-pipe will not fall on and ignite the contents. -If it is possible to obtain a force-pump it can be mounted on one of the -bases arranged at the side of the barrel. - -The suction-hose should come from the under side of the barrel and be -attached to the base of the pump. The coupling to which the long hose is -attached should be arranged at the side of the keg or it can be screwed -directly on the outlet of the pump. A short length of the hose—a -coupling and nozzle—may be supported on hooks and a standing Y as shown -in Fig. 1. The hook on the barrel is made from a piece of iron bent as -shown at Fig. 3 A, with holes bored to receive screws. If the iron is -too hard to work a wooden bracket can be made, as shown at B, and -screwed fast to the barrel. - -The Y may be made from strap-iron and a stick, as shown at C and D (Fig. -3), the iron being attached to the top of the stick which in turn is -screwed fast to the truss. A pole is made fast to the forward -running-gear to drag the engine with, and if several boys are to be -members of the fire company a rope should be made fast to the axle at -both ends or to the body frame, and the boy nearest the engine can steer -it with the pole. All the wood-work should be painted red and the metal -parts with asphaltum varnish, which will give them a good appearance, -and as it is water-proof it will prevent the metal parts from rusting. - -Trip-gongs and signal-lamps should, of course, be provided, for without -these appurtenances the engine would be a flat failure. - - - The Hose-carriage - -A hose-carriage (Fig. 4) to accompany the engine is made of wood and -constructed on the same lines as the engine. - -The frame is made of boards six inches wide, seven-eighths of an inch -thick, and is five feet long by two feet wide as shown at Fig. 5. A -dash-board is made and fastened to the front of the frame, and between -the dash-board and seat the side-rails are decked over to make a -platform. The remaining part of the frame may be left open. Across the -under side of the frame fasten two cross-bars to which the axles are to -be made fast. Baby-carriage or small wagon wheels are to be used for the -hose-carriage, and if the axles should not be long enough a blacksmith -will weld in a piece at the middle so as to make them the required -length. - -The reel is made from a round piece of wood and two circular sides and -arranged so as to revolve in a supporting frame. One side of the frame -is shown in Fig. 5. It is made from wood three inches wide, -seven-eighths of an inch thick, and the pieces are securely attached at -the inside of the side-rails with screws and clinch-nails. The sides of -the reel are made from three pieces of matched boards and are twenty -inches in diameter. - -Drive three pieces of board together and lay them flat. With a pin, a -piece of string, and a pencil describe a circle twenty inches in -diameter using the centre of the middle board as a place to drive the -pin. After the circle is drawn, separate the boards, and with a -compass-saw cut the wood on the lines. Then drive the boards together -again and band the outer edge with a piece of box strap-iron, driving -the nails in about two inches apart all around the edge. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - HOSE-CARRIAGE AND HOOK-AND-LADDER TRUCK -] - -Attach one end to the flat end of the hub. The other piece should have a -square hole cut in it so that it will fit over the square shoulder cut -on the other end of the axle as shown at Fig. 6 A. Attach both ends to -the axle with long, steel-wire nails, then from a piece of hard-wood cut -a crank and handle as shown at Fig. 6 B. The crank is ten inches long -and at both sides of the square hole the wood should be bound with wire -to prevent its splitting. At the opposite end from the crank an iron pin -half an inch in diameter is to be driven through the side and into the -end of the hub through a half-inch hole bored with auger or bit and -brace. This is shown in the drawing of the complete reel. Fig. 6 C. - -On the end of the hub and close to the square crank-shaft the hub is -turned round for a distance of two inches. This is the part that will -fit in the bearing cut in the supporting frame. To hold the reel in -position at the top of the truss, straps of iron, as shown at Fig. 6 D, -are screwed fast over the angle when the reel is in place. With a coat -or two of paint this hose-carriage will be ready for use. - - - The Hook-and-Ladder Truck - -To complete the outfit a hook-and-ladder truck (Fig. 7) will be -necessary, on the racks of which four hooks, three ladders, six buckets, -and other paraphernalia can be accommodated. - -The length of the truck will depend somewhat on the strength of the -wheels that can be had, also on the size of the boys in the fire -company; but for serviceable use for both small and large boys a truck -eight feet long will be a very good size. The frame or body is made of -boards six inches wide, seven-eighths of an inch thick, and is eight -feet long by thirty inches wide. The frame should be braced across the -bottom, at the middle, and near both ends to prevent it from racking. -Two cross-timbers for the axles are made fast under the forward and rear -ends, and to the forward one the fifth-wheel bar is made fast so that -the front wheels can be turned. - -The ladder-rack is constructed from pieces of curtain-pole and side -uprights, six inches wide at the bottom and tapered to three inches at -the top. The uprights are attached to the inside of the body frame, and -the bars on which the ladders rest are let into holes in these uprights -and keyed as shown at Fig. 8 A. The end of the bar is cut across with a -saw, and when this is passed through a hole in the upright a -wedge-shaped key is driven in the cut to spread the end of the bar and -expand it so that it will hold. Some glue on the wedge will cause it to -stay in place after it has been driven in as far as it will go. - -The ladders are made of two spruce rails three inches wide and one inch -and a quarter thick. The rungs are let into holes made in the middle of -the rails and keyed fast with wedges as just described for the -ladder-rails. If a flat rung is preferred the rails may be cut in as -shown at B in Fig. 8, and flat strips are to be laid in these laps and -nailed or screwed fast. The sharp corners may be planed off so as to -make the grip easier to the hands. The ladders may vary from seven to -twelve feet in length and from eighteen to twenty-four inches wide, -preferably the wider ones, as they are safer and will not slide sidewise -as a narrower ladder is apt to do. - -The dash-board and forward deck are supported on two bracket-plates made -fast to the forward part of the body frame, and on the deck planking a -box-seat with sides and back is to be made fast. Stout iron hooks are -driven in along both sides of the body between forward and rear wheels, -and on them ordinary wooden pails or buckets may be hung. Two sets of -hooks arranged at the outer side of the ladder supports will hold the -long handles of fire-hooks, and a scaling-ladder can be hung under the -truck. - -The goose-neck of a scaling-ladder should be made of tempered iron by a -blacksmith, and all the wood-work should be of hickory. The plan for a -scaling-ladder is shown in Fig. 9. The stick is three by one and a half -inches and the rungs are three-quarters by two inches, driven through -mortises cut in the stick twelve inches apart and held by a steel nail -driven through the centre. The goose-neck base is divided like the -front-wheel fork of a bicycle and with corresponding holes bored in each -side. Bolts should be passed through them and the head of the stick so -as to hold the iron straps securely. Good, strong hickory may be had -from a wheelwright or wagon-builder, and care should be taken to cut the -mortises accurately so that the parts will fit snugly together. -Ladder-building is different from ordinary carpentry, and pains should -be taken to have all the joints very tight so that they will not rack. - - - - - Chapter XII - - WATER-WHEELS - - -All boys like to play about the water, and dams and water machinery -afford an endless amount of amusement. Moreover, the pastime has its -useful side. Once you get a wheel in operation with a shaft and pulley -attached, it is then a simple matter to harness your power and make it -do all sorts of things, such as sawing wood, churning milk, operating a -fan on hot days, and even turning a grindstone or light wood-working -machinery. - -There are three kinds of wheels, the overshot, breast, and undershot. -The overshot is the most powerful, for it is not only moved by the -weight of water that it holds but also by the force of the onrushing -water from the sluice arranged to feed it. The breast-wheel is the next -in power and is used where the fall of water is not so great. The -undershot wheel is employed in a rapidly running brook or stream where -there is no dam or body of headwater. This form of wheel is the least -powerful and the most unreliable, for the height of the watercourse is -liable to change according to seasons and storms. While at one time it -may be flushed up to the hub, at another the water may hardly touch the -blades of the wheel. - -These forms of old-style wheels have become almost obsolete now as the -modern turbine has superseded it as a means of employing water as a -motive power. Less than one-quarter of the surface of the old-time -wheels would be actively engaged at any one time, and the waste of power -was appalling as compared with the sluice-box and pen-stock of the -modern turbine where every drop of water is lending its influence to the -blades. A turbine, however, is rather beyond the ability of the average -boy to properly construct, and so we do the best we can with the -old-style wheels. For a boy’s purpose they will answer quite well -enough. - -In the accompanying drawings several ideas for water-wheels are shown, -and among them a boy should be able to find one that he can make from -boards and sticks, at a slight cost, and which if properly rigged and -adjusted will develop a considerable amount of power. - - - A Simple Paddle-wheel - -The simple paddle-wheel, as shown at Fig. 1, is made from an axle three -inches square, four spokes, and four boards. For a wheel of medium size -that will develop about one-eighth of a horse-power the axle should be -four feet long. One end is rounded for a distance of four inches as -shown at A, and with bit and chisel two mortises are cut in opposite -directions as shown at A. These holes are one inch and a quarter wide -and three inches long. Into them the spokes are driven and held with -screws or iron pins. Another pair of holes are cut thirty inches from -the first and two more spokes driven in them. The spokes are thirty -inches long, thus leaving thirteen and a half inches of each one -projecting beyond the axle or hub. - -The paddle blades are boards thirty inches long, ten inches wide, and -seven-eighths of an inch thick. They are attached to the spokes with -carriage-bolts and washers. - -A rounded bearing two inches wide is cut in the axle beyond the spokes -so as to correspond with the other end, and beyond this the axle is left -square. Bearings for this wheel are made in the edge of a stout plank -notched as shown at B, and held in place by iron straps as also depicted -at B. Long screws or screw-bolts, commonly known as lag-screws, will -hold the strap in place, and from the square end of the shaft the -connection is made for power. In place of the iron strap another piece -of wood may be cut and clamped down over the axle end as shown at C. - - - A Wagon Wheel - -Another variety of water-wheel may be made from the hubs and spokes of -two old wheels, preferably those from a buggy or light wagon. Fig. 2. - -Remove the iron boxes from the hubs by driving them out, then cut a hole -in each hub with a chisel and mallet, as shown at A, so they will be at -least an inch and a half square. From hickory or other hard-wood make an -axle the size of the holes and arrange the hubs on it so they will be -thirty inches apart. One side of each spoke should be cut as shown at B -in order that the blades may rest against a flat place instead of a -rounded surface. The blades should be from thirty to thirty-six inches -long and ten or twelve inches wide, and held to the spokes with carriage -or tire bolts. This wheel may be swung in bearings as described in Fig. -1, and from the square end of the axle the power can be taken. - -Both of these wheels may be used as over or undershot but not as -breast-wheels, for a breast-wheel must have pockets to hold the water, -and the overshot-wheel should have them too if all the available force -and weight of water is to be employed. - - - A Barrel-wheel - -A very simple and efficient device is shown in the drawing of a -barrel-wheel (Fig. 3). This consists of an oil or pork barrel having -tight ends and staves, a number of blades, and some siding-boards. - -The blades are of hard-wood ten inches wide and the length of the -barrel. One edge of each blade is cut to conform with the bilge of the -barrel as shown at A, and with three or four long screws each blade is -made fast to the barrel at the middle. The ends of the barrel are -replanked so as to build their surface even with the projecting edges of -the staves, then some matched boards are nailed or screwed to the heads -to bind together the ends of the blades. Screws are passed through the -boards and into the ends of the blades to make them secure, and in this -manner a hollow wheel is made with pockets around the outside. - -A square hole should be cut in each end of the barrel and into them an -axle is driven. It is provided with rounded bearings and square end. -When swung in a carriage and connected a powerful wheel will be the -result if the force of water is sufficient to drive it. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - WATER-WHEELS -] - - - An Undershot-wheel - -For a brook an undershot-wheel can be made with two round ends and ten -or twelve blades according to the size of the wheel. For an efficient -one the wheel should be thirty-six or forty-eight inches in diameter and -thirty inches wide. Two ends are made from matched boards held together -with battens as shown in Fig. 4 A. These are arranged on a square axle -and the blades are made fast between them with long screws or steel -nails. Fig. 4 B. - - - A Power-wheel - -To utilize the power from a rapidly running brook place two tree-trunks -across the brook about six feet apart as shown in Fig. 5. On top of -these timbers attach two spruce beams eight or ten inches wide and two -inches thick, and anchor them well with spikes and check-blocks. At the -middle and on top of both timbers cut notches for the axle to fit in and -provide them with metal straps to hold the axle in place. A long axle -leading to the land can be supported on a short timber attached to stout -stakes driven in the ground, and another bearing and strap will hold -this from jumping with the rapid revolutions of the wheel. A wooden -pulley may be arranged at the end of this axle, and from it the power -can be taken off by means of belting or rope. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - POWER-WHEEL AND WHEEL-RACE -] - -Another arrangement for this wheel will be to swing it in a cradle or -frame so that one end of it may be lifted to reduce the speed or power -of the wheel, the other end being securely attached to a tree-trunk with -hinges. - - - A Wheel-race - -The water from a wide, shallow brook may be directed so as to throw its -full force against the blades of a wheel by digging it out at the middle -and damming it at the sides as shown by the diagram of a modified brook -(Fig. 6). The dams should be solidly built and if possible cribbed to -prevent their washing away. - - - - - Part III - - AFLOAT - - - - - Chapter XIII - - BOATS - - -Of all the things that a boy is interested in there is nothing more -fascinating than boats, whether they are to row, paddle, or sail in, -and, as many of the simple kinds are quite within the ability of a boy -to make, he can take a great deal of pleasure in their construction. - -For the sea-shore and salt waterways the boats should be heavily -constructed, and as this is usually beyond the average boy’s ability, -the sea-going dorys, surf-boats, and heavy sail-boats will be omitted, -and those described and illustrated will be for use in fresh water, or -on small enclosed salt waterways where the wind and tide are moderate. - -In making a boat it is not only necessary to have it float, but to -construct it in such a manner that the joints will keep closed and the -boards will not rip off if run on a snag or against a rocky shore. - -These are essential points in the proper construction of boats, and they -might as well be learned by the amateur boat-builder when he is young, -instead of constructing something for fun and having to learn the right -way all over again when he is older and more serious work begins. - -In this chapter a few of the simpler forms of boats are shown, and the -warning must be given at the start that the young shipwright should use -the greatest care in constructing a boat, not only for the natural pride -they will take in making a good one, but for the still more important -reason that the safety of all on board is dependent upon his skill and -conscientious work. - - - Punt and Scow - -A punt with a flat bottom is about the easiest and safest boat for a boy -to make and own, for it is straight in construction and difficult to -upset if not overloaded. As both ends are the same it can be rowed or -poled forward or backward, and the overhanging ends allow plenty of -seating room. - -The punt shown in Fig. 4 is fifteen feet long, nineteen inches deep, and -four feet wide. The ends cut under twenty inches, and at one end a skag -and rudder can be arranged as shown in Fig. 2. - -The sides are made of two boards, one of six and the other of a -twelve-inch width, and the added thickness of the bottom boards make the -total depth of the sides nineteen inches. The wider boards are the lower -ones, and they are fastened together near both ends and at the middle -with battens as shown in Fig. 4. The middle battens are six inches wide, -and into the upper ends of them the row-lock pins are driven. The bottom -planking should not be more than four or five inches wide, and it is -securely nailed to the edges of the sides and to an inner keel-strip -running the entire length of the bottom as shown in Fig. 3. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - PUNT AND SCOW -] - -The wood should be very dry so that it will not shrink afterwards and -open the seams. Along the edges, and before the planking is laid or -nailed on, smear white-lead, and lay one or two thicknesses of -lamp-wicking on the lead, so that when the ends of the planking are -driven down it makes a water-tight joint. Where the planks butt up -against the other planking, the joints are to be generously smeared with -white-lead and laid with a string of the lamp-wicking. Begin at one end -and work towards the other, having first attached the end planks. Fig. -3 A. - -The method of attaching the skag is also shown in Fig. 3, and if the -punt shows a tendency to swing around in the water and not mind the oars -or rudder, a keel three inches wide may be attached on the bottom of the -punt to run from the forward end of the straight bottom back to the end -of the skag. - -The bottom planking is to be attached at both sides and to the inner -keel-strip with galvanized nails. Do not use ordinary nails as they will -rust in a short time, and the only ones that are of use are the regular -galvanized boat nails that can be had at most hardware stores, and -always at a ship-chandler’s or from a boat-builder. - -A rudder can be made and hung at one end of the boat as shown in Fig. 2. - -A scow (Fig. 1) will be found the easiest of all boats to construct, but -at the same time the hardest to row, since both the ends are blunt and -vertical. A scow is for use in shallow water and is poled generally -instead of being rowed. It is built in a similar manner to the punt, but -the ends are not cut under. A good size to make the scow for general use -will be fourteen feet long, eighteen inches deep, and four feet wide. It -may be provided with two or three seats, and when complete both the punt -and scow should receive two or three good coats of paint. - - - A Sharpy - -It is not a difficult matter to make a sharpy like the one shown in Fig. -5, but care must be taken in its construction to insure good unions and -tight joints. - -Cedar, white-wood, pine, or cypress are the best woods of which to build -small boats, and wide boards can be had at almost any lumber-yard. White -cedar is somewhat more difficult to get than the other woods, but if -possible it should be used. - -To make this sharpy the proper size for a boy’s use, obtain two boards -fifteen or sixteen inches wide, fourteen feet long, and seven-eighths of -an inch thick, planed on both sides and as free from knots as possible. -If the boards cannot be had fifteen inches wide, then batten two boards -together with strips just as plain board doors are made. Before they are -fastened, however, smear the joint edges with white-lead and embed a -string of lamp-wicking through the middle. Use plenty of white-lead, and -after the boards are pressed together and fastened the surplus lead can -be scraped from both sides of the joint and saved for other joints. - -From a piece of hard-wood cut a stem eighteen inches long and four -inches wide, with bevelled planes, as shown in Fig. 6. A section or end -view of this post will appear like Fig. 6 A. Against the cut-in sides of -this post the bow ends of the side boards are to be attached with screws -or galvanized boat nails. - -The long side boards are to be cut at bow and stern as shown at Fig. 7 A -and B. The bow recedes three inches and the stern is cut under -thirty-four inches. Attach the bow ends of the boards to the stem-piece -or post so that the top of the sides will be seven-eighths of an inch -below the flat top of the post. If properly done you will then have a -V-shaped affair resembling a snow-plough, which must be bent and formed -in the shape of a boat. - -From a board seven-eighths of an inch thick cut a spreader ten inches -wide, forty-eight inches long at one side, and forty-two inches at the -other, as shown in Fig. 8. Arrange this between the boards about midway -from bow to stern, so that the bottom of the spreader is flush with the -bottom of the sides; then draw in the rear ends of the boards and tie -them temporarily with a piece of rope. - -Drive a nail into the edge of each board near the end, to prevent the -rope slipping off, for if it should do so the boards would fly apart and -might break away from the stem-piece. - -In order to draw in the ends to the proper position, insert a short -stick between the ropes and twist it around until the rope is wound up; -then if the end is not in far enough, slip another rope around the ends -of the boards, and after releasing the first rope insert the stick and -continue the twisting until the ends of the side boards are twenty-one -inches apart. Before this bending process is begun, it would be well to -pour a kettleful of boiling water over each side board to limber them, -for dry boards are stiff and will not bend easily without checking or -cracking. If it is possible to steam the boards they will yield still -better to the bending process. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - A SHARPY -] - -The stern-plank is cut in the same shape as the spreader, but it is -curved or crowned at the top, where it is twenty-three inches long, -while at the bottom it measures twenty inches. It is six inches wide at -the ends and nine inches at the middle, and is attached to the ends of -the sides with boat nails while the tension-rope is still in place. - -An inner keel is then cut six inches wide and pointed at the bow end, -where it is attached to the lower edges of the sides at the bow and -flush with them. The planking or bottom boards should fit snugly to it -and to the edges of the sides. - -A lap six inches long and seven-eighths of an inch deep is cut in the -bottom of the spreader at the middle. In this the inner keel will fit, -and after the first two or three bottom boards are nailed on at the bow -end the frame of the sharpy will appear as shown in Fig. 9. The spreader -and stern-plank will give the sides a flare which will have a tendency -also to curve the bottom of the boat slightly from bow to stern. The -bottom planks are four inches wide, of clear wood, and must not have -tongue and grooved edges, but should be plain so that the white-lead and -lamp-wicking will make a tight joint when the planks are driven up snug -to each other. - -Drive all nails carefully so as not to split the planking or sides, and -as a precaution a small bit or gimlet should be used to make the start -for the nail-hole. - -A seat ten inches wide is fastened at the middle of the boat, over the -spreader, and seats may also be arranged at the bow and stern, where -they rest on cleats that are screwed fast to the sides. - -A short keel or skag is fastened to the under side of the sharpy and -extends from about under the middle seat aft to the stern-post. A -V-shaped piece is let in where the stern is cut under as shown in Fig. -10. This keel prevents the sharpy from turning about quickly and serves -to steady her when rowing, as well as making a deeper stern-post to -which a rudder may be hung as shown in Fig. 2. Six inches to the rear of -the middle seat plates of wood six inches wide are attached to the sides -of the sharpy, as shown in the illustration (Fig. 5), and on the tops of -these oar-locks or pins are inserted after the usual fashion. - -At the outside of the sides and an inch below the top edge a -gunwale-strip is made fast, and with a ring in the bow for a painter and -a pair of oars the sharpy is ready for use. - -Of course it should be thoroughly painted. Three or four successive -coats of paint should be applied to a boat the first time it is painted, -and before using, it should be launched, half filled with water, and -allowed to stand for a few days so that the joints will swell and close -properly. A mast six or eight feet high and a leg-of-mutton sail will -enable a boy to sail before the wind in a quiet breeze, but -rough-weather sailing should not be attempted in this style of open -boat. - - - A Dory - -A dory (Fig. 11), is somewhat similar to a sharpy but has higher sides -and a narrower bottom, therefore it draws more water than a wide, -flat-bottomed sharpy. - -A boy can make a dory from twelve to sixteen feet long, but a -fourteen-foot dory will be quite large enough to hold from four to six -boys comfortably and safely. The sides should be twenty-four inches high -and the bottom twenty-four inches across amidships. - -The bottom is made from four six-inch planks battened across as shown in -Fig. 12. The joints are leaded before the boards are brought together, -and the fastenings are of galvanized nails clinched at the inside. The -battens, of course, are on the inside, but the nail-heads are on the -outside or bottom of the boat. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 - Fig. 14 -] - -A stem and stern-piece (Fig. 13 A and B) are cut from hard-wood, and to -these the wooden sides are made fast at both ends. The bow and stern of -a dory have more of a rake than those of a sharpy as may be seen in Fig. -11. The top of the bow extends out beyond the bottom at least from -fifteen to twenty inches, while the stern overhangs the keel about -twelve inches. The sides flare out nine inches at both sides amidships, -so that the total width of beam is forty-two inches for a dory fourteen -feet long. - -Planks sixteen feet long are necessary with which to make this dory, for -when they are sprung out at the sides they take up on the length. They -can be six inches wide, and are made fast to ribs along the inside of -the boat and attached with galvanized boat nails. - -In Fig. 14 an amidships section of the dory is shown and the position of -the seat is located. Along the top of the sides, to cap them and the -upper ends of the ribs, rails two inches wide and three-quarters of an -inch thick are made fast with boat nails. These rails should be of -hard-wood, and they should be sprung into place and securely fastened. - -A dory of this description makes an ideal fishing-boat where the water -is rough, since it can be rowed either forward or backward. - - - A Sailing Sharpy - -A rowing sharpy can be converted into a sail-boat by partially decking -it over, making a mast-step, and providing it with a lee-board if a -centre-board cannot be arranged in the middle of the hull. Fig. 18. - -The half-deck will keep out the water that might splash over the sides -or come over the bow and stern, and the row-boat features need not be -altered nor the seats removed, as the rib and brace work for the deck -can easily be fitted and fastened over the seats, and so give additional -strength to the deck. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 15 - Fig. 18 - A SAILING SHARPY -] - -Just behind the front seat and at the forward edge of the back seat -cross-ribs are made fast to the sides of the sharpy. Between these, and -eight inches from the sides of the boat, additional braces are sprung -into place and securely attached at the ends, and provided with short -cross-braces as shown in Fig. 15. The deck planking is nailed to these -ribs and the seats under them give a substantial support to both the -ribs and deck. The opening or cockpit will be six feet long and varying -in width, as the side decks are eight inches wide and follow the line of -the boat’s sides. Amidships it should measure about twenty-eight inches. - -The braces and ribs are made of three-quarter-inch spruce boards five or -six inches wide, and to bend them in the segment of a circle (as they -will have to be for the side-ribs) pour hot water over two of them and -place the ends on boxes with heavy stones at the middle to bend them -down to the required curve. Allow them to remain in this position for -several hours to dry in the sun; they may then be cut and fitted to the -boat. The decking is done with narrow strips of pine, cypress, or cedar -one inch and a half wide and three-quarters of an inch in thickness. -They are bent to conform to the side lines of the boat, and if they are -fitted nicely and leaded the deck should be water-tight after it -receives varnish or paint. - -If straight boards are employed in place of the narrow planking the deck -can be covered with canvas and first given a coat of oil, then several -successive thin coats of paint. The canvas should be tacked down over -the outer edge of the boat and to the inner edge of the cockpit. A -gunwale-strip an inch square is to be nailed along the top edge on both -sides of the boat, and one inch below the top of the deck nail a guard -rail along each side. - -To finish the cockpit arrange a combing in place to project four inches -above the deck, and make the boards fast to the inner side of the ribs -with screws as shown in the illustration of the hull of sailing sharpy. -Fig. 15. - -Ten inches back from the bow-post bore a hole two inches and a half in -diameter so that a mast will fit securely in place. The hole should -extend through the deck and front seat, and a step-block with a hole in -it to receive the foot of the mast must be nailed fast to the bottom of -the boat. The hole in this block is oblong, and the foot of the mast -should be cut on two sides so as to fit in the block as shown in Fig. -16. - -Spruce or clear pine sticks are to be dressed and planed for the mast -and boom, the mast measuring fourteen feet high by two inches and a half -at the base, and the boom thirteen feet long by two inches in diameter, -both tapering near the end. - -The rudder is eighteen inches long, including the post, and ten inches -high. It is fastened to a post of hard-wood three inches wide and -seven-eighths of an inch thick. At the top of this an iron strap is -fastened to hold the tiller as shown in Fig. 17 A. The rudder is hung to -the stern of the boat with pins and sockets, as shown in Fig. 17 B, so -that if it becomes necessary the rudder may be unshipped by lifting it -out of the sockets or eyes. The rudder is fastened to the post with -galvanized-iron pins ten inches long and three-eighths of an inch in -diameter driven through snug holes bored in the wood as shown by the -dotted lines in Fig. 17 B. - -It is impossible to hold a boat on the wind without a centre-board, but -as this sharpy has none a lee-board will be required to keep her from -drifting leeward. Fig. 18. - -This board can be made five feet long, thirty inches wide, and hung over -the lee side when running on the wind, where ropes and cleats will hold -it in place. The board may be made of three planks banded together at -the rear end with a batten, and at the forward end it is strapped across -with bands of iron as shown in Fig. 18. - -With a sail of twilled or heavy unbleached muslin this boat may be -driven through the water at five or six miles an hour, and two boys can -have a great deal of fun out of her. Care should be exercised in -handling the boat; and be sure to reef the sail in case of a strong -breeze. - - - A Centre-board Sharpy - -When making a sharpy to sail in, a trunk and centre-board should be -built when the keel is laid so that the cumbersome and unhandy lee-board -may be done away with. The centre-board is housed in the trunk, through -which it can be raised or lowered as occasion requires. - -The arrangement of the trunk in the boat is shown in Fig. 19, and it is -located so that the front of the trunk is three feet from the bow. For a -centre-board one inch and a quarter in thickness the trunk should be one -inch and three-quarters wide between sides, five feet long, and eighteen -inches high. It is made of tongue-and-grooved boards one inch and -one-eighth in thickness, and these are attached by stout screws to posts -one inch and three-quarters square at bow and stern. The trunk is -mounted on the keel, set in white-lead, and securely fastened with -screws. A slot is cut in the keel the same size as the inside opening of -the trunk—that is, two inches wide and about five feet long. The bottom -planking is butted against the sides of the trunk at the middle of the -boat as shown in Fig. 20. - -An inner keel is laid over the bottom planking through the centre of the -boat from stem to stern, and where it fits around the trunk it is cut -out. Both the inner and outer keels are six inches wide and the exposed -edges are bevelled with a plane. A sectional or end view of the trunk -and its location in the keels is shown in Fig. 20, where the shading and -lettering will designate each part. - -The centre-board is four feet and nine inches long, thirty inches wide -at the back, and twenty-four inches at the front. It is attached to the -trunk with a hard-wood pin located near the forward lower end, and when -it is drawn up it will appear as shown in Fig. 21 A, but when lowered it -will look like Fig. 21 B. - -The centre-board is made of hard-wood, several boards of which are -pinned together with galvanized-iron rods three-eighths of an inch in -diameter and driven through from edge to edge of the boards in snug -holes made with a long bit or auger. The rods are riveted at both ends -over washers to prevent the boards from working apart. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 16 - Fig. 17 - Fig. 19 - Fig. 20 - Fig. 21 - A CENTRE-BOARD SHARPY -] - -It would be better to let a boat-builder or carpenter make this board -the proper size and shape to fit the trunk, for it is the most difficult -thing to construct about a boat and somewhat beyond the ability of many -boys. A large galvanized eye and a rope made fast below the middle of -the board at the rear edge will provide the means for raising and -lowering the centre-board. - -The deck ribs and the planking are put in the same as described for the -sailing sharpy. - - - A Proa - -In the South Sea Islands the natives dig out the trunk of a tree, rig a -lateen sail on a single stick, and arrange a counter-balance on the end -of two poles in the form of a catamaran. With this rude contrivance they -can outsail anything in the shape of a small boat such as our types of -cat-boats and sharpies. - -These queer craft are called proas, and a modified type that a boy can -make is shown in the illustration Fig. 22. - -This is a perfectly safe boat, and as it lies close on the water a great -deal of fun can be had with one in comparatively smooth waterways. - -To make the hull get two ten-inch planks sixteen feet long and spring -them five feet from either end so that they come together at both ends -and are separated fifteen inches along the middle for five or six feet -as shown in Fig. 23. Between the sides place four or five spreaders, two -of which should be stout enough to receive the bolts that will hold the -two cross-braces or outriggers. Set a step-block for the mast, then -plank the deck and bottom, using plenty of white-lead and lamp-wicking -between the joints. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 22 - Fig. 23 - A PROA -] - -The cross-braces or outriggers are of two-by-four-inch clear spruce six -feet long, and their outer ends are bolted to a solid spruce timber -twelve feet long, four inches wide, and ten inches deep. They should be -sharpened at both ends with an adze, draw-knife, or a chisel and plane. - -A mast twelve feet long and three inches in diameter is stepped seven -feet from the bow, and to it a lateen rig is lashed fast having the gaff -eighteen feet long and the boom fifteen feet in length. - -A block and tackle at the bow will pay off the angle and another at the -stern will regulate the position of the sail. - -Cross-wires for braces may extend under the short decking to steady the -outrigger and keep it from racking the braces, and three or four narrow -planks can be laid across the braces close to the large boat on which -the boy and a friend or two may sit when sailing. - -A rudder may be attached to the stern of the large boat, as shown in -Fig. 17, or an oar can be used to steer with. - -Paint the boats any desired color, and for the first time give them at -least three or four thin coats not less than two days apart, so that one -will dry thoroughly before the next one is laid on. Never put thick or -gummy paint on a boat; thin it down and apply two coats rather than one -thick one. - - - A Lark - -Perhaps the safest kind of a sailing-craft next to a catamaran is a lark -with a broad beam and flat at both bow and stern. There are various -forms of the half-rater, but the one shown in Fig. 24 is easy to -construct and requires less careful fitting and joining than the hulls -with pointed bows and long, overhanging sterns. - -In general construction this hull is similar to the punt, and when -putting it together the description for the building of the punt must be -borne in mind. - -[Illustration: Fig. 24] - -Obtain two clear cedar planks sixteen feet long and from fourteen to -sixteen inches wide. Four feet from either end begin to round the lower -edges of these side boards. Cut two spreaders five feet and six inches -long and make them fast four feet from the ends of the sides as shown at -Fig. 25. Between these spreaders attach an inner keel in the forward end -of which an opening has been made. The keel is of hard-wood eight inches -wide and the opening is three inches and a half in width and four feet -and eight inches long. - -A centre-board trunk is made and fitted into this opening as described -for the sailing sharpy. Then braces are fastened between the sides and -trunk as shown at Fig. 26. - -Two bevelled hard-wood bow and stern pieces are cut as shown at Fig. 27. -The ends of the boards are sprung in and attached to the ends of these -pieces, and between them and the spreaders two more boards are fastened -as indicated by the lines of nail-heads in Fig. 26. At the bow just -ahead of the forward long cross-piece or spreader step the mast, and at -the stern make the rudder-post trunk, taking care to use plenty of -white-lead and lamp-wick so as to render the joints water-tight. Put a -line of braces through the middle of the frame, then begin at the bow -and plank the bottom with boards not more than three or four inches -wide. - -With the planking on and the braces, spreaders, and trunk in position -the frame will appear as shown in Fig. 28. The deck planking is of -strips seven-eighths of an inch thick and three inches wide. Begin at -the middle of the boat by laying down a strip six inches wide by one -inch and a quarter in thickness. Drive the deck planking close to this -and smear the points with white-lead in which the lamp-wicking is -embedded. Make all the fastenings with galvanized boat nails and drive -the heads well into the wood with a nail-punch so they can be puttied -and covered from the action of the water. An outer flat keel is laid -along the bottom of the hull from the forward part of the cockpit or -about under the mast. This leads aft to where the stern begins to round -up and there it is stopped. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 25 - Fig. 26 - Fig. 27 - Fig. 28 - Fig. 29 - A LARK -] - -This keel is attached with galvanized or brass screws, and a generous -number are driven through the keel into the bottom edges of the -centre-board trunk. - -The rudder is made from galvanized sheet-iron as shown at Fig. 29, and -is let into a one-and-a-quarter-inch round iron rudder-post and riveted -fast. Just above the rudder-blade a collar of iron is welded to the post -and this bears against the bottom of the boat. To prevent the rudder -from dropping down a pin is passed through a hole in the post close to -the deck and a large washer made fast to the deck will prevent the pin -from chafing the wood. - -Have the top of the post made with a square shank so that a tiller may -fit over it and be held in position by a nut. - -The rudder-blade should be twenty-six inches long and twelve inches -wide. - -The mast is fifteen feet long, cut from a four-inch spruce stick with -draw-knife and plane. The boom is fifteen feet long, cut from a -two-and-one-half-inch spruce stick, and the gaff is eleven feet long. - -Extending out from the mast and attached to the deck is a short bowsprit -five feet and six inches long. This is of two-by-three-inch spruce with -the sharp corners rounded off beyond the end of the boat. - -A wire forestay and two shrouds lead from mast-head to bowsprit and to -both sides of the boat as shown in Fig. 24. - -The main-sheet is seven feet on the mast, ten feet on the gaff, fourteen -feet at the foot or on the boom, and eighteen feet on the leach. The jib -is eleven feet on the forestay, five feet at the foot, and ten feet on -the leach. The blocks are all of galvanized iron or wood, and -three-eighth-inch Manila-rope should be used for the halyards and -sheets. - -This lark will ride well on the water, and if properly rigged it should -be a very speedy boat. - - - A Power-boat - -A novel feature for the propulsion of a flat-bottom boat or punt is -shown in Fig. 30. Two small paddle-wheels attached to one shaft are hung -out over the stern, and by means of a sprocket on the shaft connected to -another and larger one on the seat frame the wheels are turned by the -boys who mount the seats and work the pedals. - -The punt is fifteen feet long on the deck line and six feet wide. The -side boards are twelve inches wide, and with the thickness of the deck -and bottom planking it will make the total depth about fourteen inches. -Through the middle a strengthening rib is run the same size and -thickness as the outer sides as shown in Fig. 31. This gives an -additional rib to nail the sheathing boards to and also an anchorage to -which the uprights forming the seat frame can be made fast with bolts. - -The outriggers that suspend the wheels are of spruce two inches thick -and three inches wide. They are bolted to the deck and at the outer end -U-notches are cut for the axle of the wheels to fit into and capped with -iron straps such as shown in Fig. 32. A blacksmith will make these for -you from strap-iron an eighth of an inch thick and two inches wide. They -should be bolted on when the wheels are in position, for they not only -have to support the weight of the wheels but also stand the action of -the water against them. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 30 - Fig. 31 - Fig. 32 - Fig. 33 -] - -The wheels are each twenty-four inches in diameter and two feet long, -and are made from wood seven-eighths of an inch in thickness. Seven -blades eight inches wide are screwed fast to the sides or held in place -with long, galvanized boat nails. - -The axle is of spruce two inches square, and the wheel sides are -provided with square holes through which the axle is driven as shown in -Fig. 33. The ends of the axle are banded with iron, or copper wire may -be wound round them to prevent their splitting. Into the ends half-inch -round iron pins are driven which revolve in the bearings. - -The seat-frame is thirty inches high and made from spruce rails three -inches wide and one inch and a half in thickness. On the middle upright -a large and small gear wheel are arranged on an axle with the cranks and -pedals, and on the front post a small wheel is attached so that tandem -power may be used on the paddle-wheels or one boy alone can work the -boat. A rod and handle-bars may be arranged for the rear boy to grasp, -and with a socket and set-screw it can be raised or lowered at will. - -The forward bars have a cross-piece of iron at the foot of the vertical -rod. This is two feet long, and from the ends of it running aft wires -connect with the ends of a tiller for operating the rudder. - -The rudder is hung between the wheels on a skag which is the rear -extension of a short keel that should be nailed fast to hold the punt -steady on the water. - -Four canopy poles may be arranged to fit into sockets at the sides, and -an awning six by ten feet can be supported over the machinery of the -boat to keep off sun and rain. - -This is a genuine boy-power boat, and as the wheels are substantially -large and strong it can be driven over the water at quite a good speed. -While it takes two boys to properly run it, that is not the boat’s -capacity, for she will easily carry from four to six boys, their -lunch-baskets, or a one-day camping outfit for a visit up the river or -lake. - - - - - Chapter XIV - - CATAMARANS - - - A Rowing Catamaran - -For safety on the water, as nearly as safety can be assured, there is -nothing to compare with a catamaran, for they are practically -“non-capsizable,” and if not damaged to the leaking-point one or the -other of the two boats will float and hold up several persons. Fig. 1 -gives a good idea for a rowing catamaran that any boy can make from some -boards and light timbers. It is provided with a seat and oar-locks so -that the occupant may be seated above the water far enough to row -easily. - -The boats are fourteen feet long, eighteen inches wide, and fourteen -inches deep, including the bottom and deck. - -Pine, white-wood, cedar, or cypress, three-quarters of an inch thick and -planed on both sides, will be necessary from which to construct the -boats. At the bow the ends of the sides are attached to a stern-piece of -hard-wood as shown in Fig. 2. Having poured boiling water on the forward -ends, they may be drawn around a spreader sixteen inches long and twelve -inches wide provided with two U-cuts as shown in Fig. 3. These are -placed at the bottom, so that any water may be run to one end of a boat -where it can be pumped out. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 -] - -The first spreader is placed three feet from the bow, and three or four -more of them should be fastened between the sides as shown in Fig. 4, -the last one being three feet from the stern where the sides begin to -curve up to the upper edge of the stern and to the deck. - -The bottom is of three-inch pine or white-wood boards seven-eighths of -an inch thick and well leaded in the joints and along the edges where -the bottom and top boards join the sides. Before the top or deck is -placed on, the interior of the boats should have two or three good coats -of paint. - -Three cross-stringers of spruce two and one-half by four inches and six -feet long are securely attached to the boats, and on these the deck of -four-inch boards is made fast as the illustration will show. Between the -middle and forward stringer, at the ends, two boards are attached on -which the row-locks may be fastened. These boards are eight or nine -inches wide and cut away at the front so that they are not more than two -or three inches wide. - -The high ends are braced with round iron braces as shown in the -illustration, and where the oar-locks are mounted a short plate of wood -is screwed fast to the inside of each piece. - -Near the front cross-piece a seat is built and braced with a board. With -another boy at the stern sitting on the deck this catamaran will be well -balanced and will prove very seaworthy, as well as a light boat to row. - - - A Sailing Catamaran - -It is almost impossible to upset a sailing catamaran even in a gale, and -for boys a boat of this kind affords a great deal of comparatively safe -pleasure. - -A catamaran is about the easiest sort of a boat to make, and no matter -in what locality one lives there is always material at hand from which -to make one as the wood is similar to that used for house construction. - -Fig. 5 shows a side elevation of a safe catamaran, and in Fig. 6 the -deck plan is shown. In Fig. 7 an elevation view of the stern shows the -arrangement of the boats, deck timbers, and rudders. - -The boats are fifteen feet long, eighteen inches wide at the middle, and -two feet deep uniformly from bow to stern except for a short distance at -the bow where the keel rounds up. - -They are in the form of a V, and at the ends the angle becomes more -acute, so that at the stem and stern the lines are vertical. - -Four feet from both ends the deck line begins to curve as shown in Fig. -6, and in Fig. 8 the cross-braces are shown. They are cut in at the -bottom to slip over the keel and to them the sheathing planks are made -fast. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5] - -In Fig. 8 the curved stem-piece and one side of planking is shown, and -it indicates also where the curved stem-piece is joined to the keel, -which extends in a straight line to the stern of the boats. - -The keel is of hard-wood one inch and a quarter thick and six inches -wide. The cross-braces or spreaders are of pine or other soft wood -seven-eighths of an inch thick and made up of three pieces of wood with -the grain running vertically. - -The sheathing is of pine, cedar, or cypress three-quarters of an inch -thick, planed on both sides, and three or four inches wide. Each board -should be given a priming coat of paint before it is nailed to the -braces, and where the planks are edged together white-lead and lamp-wick -should be employed for calking. Galvanized boat nails are to be used for -all the fastenings, but screws may be employed where it is necessary to -have a very secure joint. - -The cross-pieces that fasten the boats together are bolted fast by means -of long bolts that pass through the timbers and deck and into stout -pieces of wood that are nailed fast to the upper part of the spreaders -as shown at A in Fig. 8. The boats are decked over with the -three-quarter-inch planking, and to insure an absolutely tight deck the -wood may be treated to a thick coat of paint and covered with canvas -which is pressed down well into the paint and the edges tacked down over -the sides of the boats. The canvas is then given a coat or two of paint -and allowed to dry thoroughly, after which it can be sand-papered and -finished with the desired shade of paint. - -Three spruce timbers eight feet long, three inches thick, and six inches -wide are bored with holes at the ends where the bolts pass through them -and into the boats. Running parallel to the boats three timbers are laid -across the brace-timbers and on top of these the deck planking is -nailed. These pieces are two and one-half by four inches, and ten feet -long, and are bolted down with long slim bolts. - -The decking is formed of slats three-quarters of an inch thick and four -inches wide nailed down to these stringers. Spaces half an inch wide are -left between each one. - -The bowsprit is of three-by-four-inch spruce left with its square -corners for half its length but dressed round at the outer end. It is -caught under the middle cross-brace where the end is bolted, and -extending over the front piece it projects four or five feet beyond the -bow ends of the boats. With wire-cable the bowsprit end is stayed to the -bow of each boat, where turn-buckles can be caught into eyes in the -stem-posts. - -The mast is of spruce dressed from a four-inch spruce stick and slightly -tapered at the top. It is fifteen feet long and stepped at the middle of -the front cross-piece and on top of the bowsprit where it is held in -place with a collar and iron braces as shown in the illustration. Fig. -5. - -Standing rigging of wire-cable stays the mast from the top to both ends -of the front cross-piece as indicated by the dotted line in Fig. 7. - -Three short posts are made fast to the cross-pieces close to the -decking, and holes bored in the tops of them will hold a safety-rope -around the deck. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - A SAILING CATAMARAN -] - -The rudder-posts are of hard-wood one inch and a quarter thick and two -inches and a half in width. They are three feet long and to the upper -end of each a strap of metal is arranged to receive the tiller as shown -in Fig. 9. - -The tillers are of hard-wood three feet long and their inner ends are -connected with a hard-wood stick by means of which the steering is done -and both rudders operated at the same time. - -The rudders, made from two sheets of galvanized iron, are riveted fast -to the rudder-posts and are twelve inches high and fifteen inches long. -Pins on the posts fit into eyes attached to the stern-post of the boats, -and in Fig. 10 the arrangement of rudders, tillers, and connecting-rod -is shown. - -The main-sail is of twilled cotton that can be had at a dry-goods store -for about ten cents a yard, and a rib should be sewed through the middle -of each breadth to strengthen the cloth. The sail is nine feet and six -inches on the mast, six feet on the gaff, thirteen feet on the boom, and -fifteen feet on the leach. The jib, also of twilled cotton, is eleven -feet and six inches on the forestay, eight feet across the foot, and -eight feet and six inches on the leach. The blocks can be of galvanized -iron but patent sheave-wood blocks are preferable. - -For the halyards Manila-rope three-eighths of an inch in diameter will -be the right size, and a half-inch anchor-rope will be stout enough, -since a catamaran does not tug as heavily on an anchor as does a boat. - -The wood-work of the boat and deck should be painted and the spars -varnished. A pretty effect will be to paint the boat a rich olive green, -with buff decks, and all the cross-pieces and deck planking in ivory -white. - -The ordinary sailing rules will apply to the handling of a catamaran. -With these wedge-shaped boats you can sail quite close to the wind, but -if round-bottomed and shallower boats are used they will have to be -provided with centre-boards. - - - A Side-wheel Catamaran - -The rowing catamaran can easily be converted into a side-wheel boat by -removing the middle slat of the deck and making an opening through which -a chain will lead to a cog or sprocket wheel on an axle. - -At the outer side of each boat, between the middle and rear -cross-braces, fasten two pieces of wood two inches wide and three inches -high. Six or eight inches from the rear end make two U-cuts for a -five-eighth-inch axle to fit into. At a blacksmith’s obtain two old -carriage or buggy wheels, and cut the spokes so that they will be -fourteen inches long from the hub. Dress one side of each spoke flat, so -that a paddle may be attached to it with screws. The paddles are of -hard-wood, eight inches wide at the outer end, six at the inner end, and -six inches deep. - -Have a blacksmith heat the ends of an axle and pound them square, then -slip one hub over the iron, and with hard-wood wedges make it fast. The -other wheel can be slipped on when the axle is in place and attached in -a similar manner. It would be best to remove the old iron boxes from the -hubs, so that a few screws can be driven through the hub and into the -wedges to help in holding them securely in place. - -In Fig. 11, which is a stern view of the rowing catamaran, one of the -paddle-wheels is shown in place, and it also shows the location of the -axle, the sprocket-wheel, and the chain that leads to the large -sprocket-wheel by means of which the axle is turned. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11] - -An old bicycle chain and sprockets, together with the axle, cranks, and -pedals, can be arranged on a frame, so that a saddle may be mounted the -proper distance above the pedals. This arrangement is clearly shown in -the illustration, which shows also the outrigger timbers at the stern, -to which a sheet-iron rudder may be made fast. It is operated by a -handle and bar, which turns the rudder by means of flexible wire-rope -run through two deck-pulleys at the outer rear ends of the deck -planking. The iron rod is held in place to the forward upright of the -seat-frame with metal straps. At its lower end a wooden wheel having a -groove is made fast, around which a wrap or two of the wire-cable is -taken to hold the rudder steady. - - - - - Chapter XV - - ICE-BOATS - - - A Sloop-rigged Ice-yacht - -For travelling over the ice there is nothing to beat an ice-yacht, and -some that have been constructed on the Hudson River are of gigantic size -and power. Boats of this kind, and having the speed of an express-train, -are dangerous for boys to play with, but the ordinary ice-boat that will -go from ten to twenty miles an hour is within the ability of any -well-grown boy to make and safely handle. - -It is quite a simple matter to make a good ice-boat, for it is but a -framework properly put together and bolted, on top of which a deck is -nailed, with a mast-step arranged at the front. - -Fig. 1 shows the elevation view of a moderately sized sloop-yacht; and -in Fig. 2 the deck plan is shown, the joints and deck boards being -clearly indicated. The triangular body of the boat is ten feet long and -eight feet wide, and the bowsprit projects out six feet beyond the -timber A in Fig. 2. - -The frame is made of clear spruce timbers six inches wide and two inches -thick. The timber A is eight feet long, B B are eleven feet long, C is -five feet long, and D D are each three feet long. - -At the front corners and at the back the timbers are bevelled, as shown -in the plan drawing, and they are joined with long bolts as indicated by -the dotted lines. Timbers C and D D are set in place and securely -fastened with long, steel-wire spikes. The bowsprit E is mounted against -timber C and laid over timber A, to which it is bolted fast. A half-inch -iron pin is driven in the butt end of the bowsprit, and it fits into a -hole made in timber C. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1] - -The bowsprit is cut from spruce two inches and a half by four inches, -and tapered at the outer end, where a withe having three eyes is driven -on. The top eye receives the forestay and the side ones the bobstay -cables that run to the corners of the boat, where they are drawn taut -with turn-buckles. The shoe-blocks F F are twenty-four inches long and -three inches square, and are bolted to the timbers A and B as shown. - -At the stern a triangular block is mounted between the ends of the -timbers B B, through which the rudder-post will pass. The decking planks -G are then attached to the frame with screws or steel nails. - -The mast-step is made by attaching two twelve-inch pieces of plank -eighteen inches long and an inch and a quarter thick to the inside sides -of timbers D D. Across the top of them attach another plank, and in the -middle of it cut a hole three inches and a half in diameter, or large -enough to receive the mast. In the bowsprit, directly under the large -hole, make a small one to receive a three-quarter-inch pin. This iron -pin is to be driven in the bottom of the mast so that six inches of it -projects beyond the bottom of the stick. These will form the mast-step, -and when the mast is in place and held by the forestay and shrouds it -cannot jump out. Iron stanchion-rods are attached to the top of the -mast-plate and to the inside of timber A as shown in the illustration. - -The shoes are of tire, steel and will have to be made by a blacksmith. -The front ones are thirty inches long, curved up at the front, as shown -in Fig. 3 A, and bevelled at the bottom so as to form a gripping or -cutting edge. When mounted the lower edge is at the outside of the boat. -Shanks with bolt-tops and collars pass through the holes made in the -shoe-blocks F F, and are securely held with nuts screwed down on washers -so as not to cut the wood. - -The rudder (Fig. 3 B) is a chisel-edged piece of steel twelve inches -long turned up at both ends and mounted at the foot of a shank C, which -is provided with a collar, a square shoulder for the tiller D to fit on, -and a threaded top so that a nut will hold the tiller in place. The -shoes can only be made of steel or iron, as wooden ones are useless. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 -] - -The mast is twelve feet high and three inches and a half or four inches -in diameter, slightly tapered near the top. The gaff is six feet long -and the boom twelve feet in length. The main-sail measures eight feet on -the mast, five feet on the gaff, eleven on the boom, and the leach is -thirteen feet long. The jib is ten feet on the forestay, six feet at the -foot, and eight feet on the leach. This sail area will present a good -surface to the wind, and with an ordinary breeze the boat should make -from eight to twelve miles an hour with two or three boys on the deck. - -The rigging is done in the same manner in which boats are fitted out. -The spars should be varnished and the boat can be painted or varnished, -as a matter of choice. All white wood-work with black metal parts, or a -red frame with cream-colored deck and black metal parts, are pleasing -combinations, but a boy’s own ideas can be carried out with the -paint-pot and brush. - - - A Twin-mast Ice-boat - -The twin-mast ice-boat shown in Fig. 4 is the same size as the other -one, and built in the same manner except that timbers D D in Fig. 2 are -omitted and a smaller deck is laid at the stern. - -One foot back from the corners three-inch masts are stepped in holes -made in timbers B B to receive half-inch iron pins driven in the foot of -the masts. The sticks are eleven feet long and lashed together at the -top or bolted with several long, thin bolts as shown in the -illustration. They pitch forward at a slight angle, or so that the -forestay is eleven feet long. - -The gaff is sixteen feet long and the boom eighteen feet in length, and -the leach of the sail is fourteen feet. - -The gaff is hauled up into the crotch formed by the masts, and a set of -blocks and tackle at the bottom of the sail on the boom and the deck -will haul the sail into the proper position. It then swings free between -the masts, and the jib and main-sail form one large sheet, so that when -the main-sheet goes to one side or the other the jib always takes the -opposite position and the wind is playing on the entire sail at all -times. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4] - -This is a very easy rig to handle as it relieves the steersman from the -bother of the jib-sheets which are annoying in a stiff breeze. - - - Scoots and Scooters - -Scoots and scooters are the latest wrinkle in ice-boats. Down on the -Great South Bay, on the southern side of Long Island, they speak of them -in fun as “ice-water boats.” The advantage in a boat of this kind lies -in their ability to sail on poor ice or to go across water that is -partly open and frozen as many of the bays along the coast are at times. - -The scoot shown in Fig. 5 is in the form of a sharpy, but the bottom -curves up at the bow so that if it is sailing on the water and comes to -the edge of an ice-floe that is not too high out of the water the wind -will blow the boat up on the ice and it will sail along on its runners -at double its previous speed. In the same manner when it comes to open -water it will slip off the ice quite comfortably and become again a -marine craft. - -The model and descriptions of a centre-board sharpy may be taken for the -construction of the boat, except that there is no stem or bow-post and -the bottom rounds up the same as the side boards curve in. The bow is -therefore nearly a point. This construction is shown in Fig. 6 (page -252), which is a view of the sides and bottom only, the deck planking -being fastened down afterwards. - -The boat should be calked with white-lead and lamp-wicking and as -carefully made as a water-boat, for it must be absolutely tight and -water-proof. The deck may be covered with canvas and painted, or it may -be of varnished or painted wood. - -The hull should be from twelve to fifteen feet long and from four to -five feet wide across the widest part. It is fifteen inches deep, and is -provided with a centre-board and trunk the same as described for the -sailing sharpy on page 221. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5] - -The mast is twelve feet long or about ten feet above the deck; the gaff -is seven feet and the boom eleven feet long. The bowsprit is four feet -long and is bolted to the forward deck, and from the end of it to the -top of the mast a light, wire-cable forestay is made fast for the jib to -run on. - -The sails are made of twilled drill or very heavy unbleached muslin, and -in the main-sheet one or two sets of reef-points will be necessary. The -main-sail measures seven feet on the mast, six feet and six inches on -the gaff, ten feet and six inches on the boom, and thirteen feet on the -leach. The jib measures seven feet on the forestay, four feet across the -foot, and six feet on the leach. The sail-cloth should be ribbed to -strengthen it and a light rope run around all the edges of both sails. - -The shoes are made of light, broad tire iron or steel twenty-four inches -long and shaped so that the front part will bolt fast to the outside of -the scooter sides and the rear ends will lie against the bottom of the -boat where they can be bolted fast. The shape of these shoes is shown in -Fig. 7 A (page 252), and any blacksmith will make them for you at a -nominal cost. The rudder is of stout sheet-iron mounted in the end of a -shank as shown at Fig. 7 B (page 252). Its fan-tail permits it to swing -the boat in the water and its lower edge will guide it on the ice. - -The rudder-post should be attached to the skag which is arranged at the -under side and rear of the boat, and with a short iron tiller fastened -as shown in Fig. 3 C and D the rudder may be swung. - -When sailing on the ice the centre-board should be hauled up as high as -it will go, for it is of use only when the boat is in the water. - -A scoot is a cranky boat on the ice as the runners or fore-shoes are -closer together than on an ice-boat with a triangular frame. Going -before the wind it is all right, but when sailing on or up into a stiff -wind it will keep a boy moving to hold his balance and steady the boat. - -The shovel-nosed scooter shown in Fig. 8 is an easier boat to handle as -it is broader than the sharpy, but it is not quite so fast, being -slightly heavier. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8] - -It is twelve feet long over all with a five-foot beam and fourteen -inches high including deck and bottom. The side boards are twelve inches -wide, curved up at the bow, and bent in at the stern as shown in the -illustration. - -Twin masts are stepped two feet from the bow and lashed together nine -feet above the deck. The rigging is the same as for the twin-mast -ice-boat, and the sail measures twelve feet on the gaff, fourteen feet -on the boom, with the leach eleven feet in length. - -A small centre-board mounted in a trunk will be necessary for water -sailing, and with several coats of paint the scooter will be ready for -use. - - - A Wind-runner - -An interesting boat for a boy to sail is a wind-runner like the one -shown in Fig. 9. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 -] - -Two spruce planks twelve feet long and ten inches wide are attached to -three battens and separated four inches. The stern batten is four inches -high and two inches wide, and through a hole made in the middle the -shank of the rudder-post extends, from the top of which the tiller -works. - -The front ends of the planks are rounded and mounted on a triangular -framework six feet across at the front and extending back about five -feet from the ends of the planks. - -A mast three inches in diameter and nine feet high is stepped through a -collar and into a block attached to the back of the front cross-piece as -shown in Fig. 10. An iron pin at the bottom of the mast drops into a -hole made in the block and the backstays hold the mast in place. - -A yard-arm eight feet long supports a square sail six feet wide, which -is caught at the lower ends to the outer ends of the triangle frame. - -The shoes attached to the triangle frame with bolts are fifteen inches -long and the rudder-blade is ten inches long. - -This is a rapid sailer before the wind, and with a little manœuvring the -runner can be made to sail on the wind, though it will not run nearly as -close to the wind as the ice-boats or scoots. Paint or varnish will give -the wood-work a good finish, and under a stiff breeze this wind-runner -will carry four or five boys. - - - - - Chapter XVI - - HOUSE-BOATS AND RAFTS - - - A House-punt - -A house-punt of very simple construction is shown in Fig. 1. The punt is -from sixteen to twenty-four feet long according to the size desired, but -for a party of four boys it should be twenty-four feet long, eight feet -wide, and two feet deep with a cabin eight feet high. - -The sides and middle rib should be of pine, spruce, or white-wood one -inch and a quarter thick, free from sappy places and knots. If the -boards cannot be had as long as twenty-four feet nor as wide as two -feet, use two boards twelve inches wide and make one joint at the middle -of the lower board and two in the upper board as shown in the drawing of -the side elevation (Fig. 2). Six inches down from the top at either end -and thirty inches in at the bottom cut the sides as shown so that the -punt will have a shovel-nose at both ends and can be poled or sailed in -either direction. Make a third or middle rib the same size as the side -board. This is to be placed at the middle of the punt so as to receive -the sheathing and deck planking. The arrangement of this middle rib and -the side boards is shown in Fig. 3 and at A in Fig. 3. A batten is shown -to which the upper and lower boards of a side are nailed fast. If the -two boards are used it will be necessary to arrange these battens along -the inside of each side about eighteen inches apart. They should be of -tough wood five or six inches wide, an inch and a quarter thick, and two -feet long. - -Galvanized boat nails should be used, and when driven in from the -outside they should be clinched at the inside. Good boat nails are of -malleable iron stiff enough to go through hard-wood but ductile enough -to be turned over at the ends with a light hammer and quick, sharp -blows. - -The sheathing and deck planking should be not less than four inches and -not more than six inches in width, and before it is put on it should be -well sun-dried to take out all moisture. It should then be given two -good coats of paint on both sides to make it water-proof. - -Lay the sides and middle rib bottom up and begin to sheath from one end. -Lumber sixteen feet long should be used, and this, when cut in half, -will make two pieces from each length. If matched boards are used smear -the edges with white-lead before the boards are driven together, but if -straight-edge lumber is employed it will be necessary to lead and wick -the joints. This is done by taking a piece of round iron one-quarter of -an inch in diameter and eight inches long and bending it as shown at -Fig. 4 A. Lay this on the flat edge of each board at the middle and heat -the iron so as to form a groove as shown at Fig. 4 B. The wood, having -been beaten in, forms a gully in which a string of lamp-wick can be laid -as shown in Fig. 4 C. The groove must not be cut with a chisel for then -its effect would be lost. The object of this treatment is that when the -punt is in the water the joint swells forcing out the wood against the -lamp-wick and making a water-tight joint. The edges of the wood and the -wicking must be well smeared with white-lead in order to properly calk -the joint. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - A HOUSE-PUNT -] - -Between the middle rib and each side an inner keel should be arranged so -that each plank can be nailed fast to it. This will act as an additional -brace to hold the sheathing planks in place and make the bottom more -rigid. This inner keel should extend from end to end of the punt, and -short pieces may be laid inside the bevelled ends to lend added -strength. - -At each end a spruce plank eight inches wide is made fast with long boat -nails, first leading all the joints to make them water-tight. The deck -planks are laid on the same as the sheathing, and to brace them from -underneath, in the space between the middle rib and the sides, -two-by-three-inch spruce rails are propped on short sticks which are -nailed to the inner keel and to the rails as shown at Fig. 5. These -under props should be arranged about eighteen inches apart, the entire -length of the punt. Groove the upper edges of the end and side planks -with the iron, then lay the lamp-wicking in, lead, and nail down the -planking, taking care to put the nails in straight and true. When the -punt is finished give it several good coats of copper paint on the -bottom and sides and several coats of good marine paint on the deck. - -To construct the cabin lay down the sill-joist of two-by-three-inch -spruce, making the plan fourteen feet long and seven feet and eight -inches wide (Fig. 6). To this nail the uprights and bracing timbers, -forming the sides and ends as shown in the drawings of the side and end -elevation (Fig. 7). The door spaces at the ends should be three feet -wide and seven feet high, so that when trimmed and the doors hung the -actual size will be two feet and eight inches wide by six feet and ten -inches high. - -The window openings are two feet wide by two feet and six inches high, -and between all the uprights braces are nailed fast to prevent the -frame from racking. The arrangement of framing timbers is quite -clearly shown in the drawings, and in the deck plan (Fig. 6) the -arrangement of the bunks is indicated. Across the top of the framework -one-and-a-half-by-six-inch beams are laid having their upper edge -crowned as shown in the end elevation (Fig. 7). Over these the roofing -boards are laid lengthwise, and on top of them canvas is drawn and -tacked down all around the edges with copper tacks. - -The roofing boards may be of three-quarter-inch stuff planed on both -sides and from two to four inches wide, whichever is the easiest to -obtain. The boards should extend over the ends and sides for two or -three inches so that a finishing moulding can be made fast under the -boards. Give the top of the boards two good coats of paint, then stretch -oiled canvas over the top and tack it fast. Several coats of paint will -finish the canvas and make it hard enough to walk on, for in pleasant -weather this upper deck will make a pleasant place to spend many hours -under the shade of a canopy. The cabin sheathing is of narrow matched -boards planed on both sides and as free from knots and sappy places as -it is possible to get them. The boards must be thoroughly sun-dried -before they are laid on and nailed fast, and it would be well also to -paint the matched edges so that moisture may not get in and swell them. -The inside and outside of the cabin is to be painted to protect the wood -from moisture, and if painted a light tint of any color, or white, it -will be cooler in summer when the sun is shining than if coated with a -dark color. Dark colors absorb light and heat while light ones reflect -or shed them. - -The window-sashes should be arranged on hinges so that they may be swung -in and back against the inside of the cabin and hooked. Or, by cutting -away a part of the upright, the sash may be arranged to slide. Wire -screening may be tacked over the window-frame at the outer side to keep -out flies and mosquitoes, and screen doors can be made also for the -front and rear doorways—to swing in, as the wooden doors swing out. - -Over the rear deck a canopy is arranged on poles. This is similar to a -tent fly for camping, and will shed the sun and rain from the deck when -the cook is preparing meals. - -A small cook-stove may be arranged inside the cabin, but if it is not -convenient to carry coal in a box on the deck an oil-stove will answer -every purpose. - -Two bunks may be built in on each side, one above the other, and four -wire springs may be arranged to rest on battens driven across the bunks -at the head and foot. A small hatch should be cut in the rear deck and -another one through the cabin floor so that a few things may be stored -in the hold. The aft hatch should be provided with a suction-pump so -that any water that leaks in can be readily pumped out. - -Rings, cleats, and ropes should be provided for the punt, and two -anchors would be better than one, especially when near the shore or in -shallow water, to hold the punt from swinging, which it is sure to do if -there is any wind or waves. Always anchor it so that the wind is blowing -on one end and not broadside as it is a strain on the anchors and ropes -to hold a boat broadside on. - -By erecting a spar fifteen or twenty feet high and four or five inches -in diameter, a square-sail can be rigged on yard-arms so that the -house-punt can be sailed before the wind. A long oar will be necessary -to steer with, or a portable rudder may be made and hung to the stern -with pins and ropes. - -A house-punt of this description will be a very great source of -enjoyment to several boys in the summer-time, and in the winter when not -in use the punt can be hauled out on shore, the windows boarded up, and -old canvas drawn over the decks to protect them from the sun. - - - A House-raft - -Almost any boy can build a fairly good boat, even if it is a -flat-bottomed sharpy. But to build a raft of the proper size, and on it -a house that may be comfortably occupied, will require the aid of a good -carpenter who understands construction, and under whose direction -several boys can work to good advantage. - -For a party of four or five young fellows, a very convenient and -commodious house-raft at anchor is shown in Fig. 8. The raft is about -thirty-eight feet long and twelve feet wide, while the house is -twenty-three feet long and twelve feet wide by nine feet high from raft -deck to top of house. - -These dimensions will, if necessary, permit the raft to be taken through -any canal, and without mast and deck-rails it will pass under the road -bridges that span the canals. - -If the house-raft is to be used on canals only, it will be better not to -have the mast, and the deck-rail may be arranged so that it can be -removed quickly before passing under a low bridge. - -The mast is for use on lakes, bays, or rivers only, where a large -square-sail can be hoisted on a yard-arm, and by means of which the raft -may be made to sail before the wind slowly, so that its position may be -changed from time to time. - -The construction of a house-raft is quite simple, and will not require -the services of a boat-builder, as the carpenter can build both the raft -and the house on it. To begin with, it will be necessary to obtain four -straight logs thirty-eight feet long, as sound as possible, and not -wind-racked. Two of these logs are to be laid with the butt end at the -stern, and the other two with butts at the bow, thus giving equal spaces -between each along the entire length of the raft. - -Across the ends of these logs nail a temporary strip to keep them the -proper distance apart; then at right angles lay four-by-twelve-inch -timbers on edge about two feet apart, and spike them securely to the -logs. This part of the work should be done in shallow water, where the -logs can be near enough to shore for the workers to stand on bottom. - -When laying these cross-timbers it is always well to place the first -ones about five feet apart, and stand a straight timber across from one -to the other parallel to the logs, so that as each succeeding timber is -laid it can be levelled by either cutting slightly into the log or -building up the bearing, as it may require. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - A HOUSE-RAFT -] - -Having timbered the logs the entire length, begin to plank or deck the -raft with one-inch-and-a-quarter spruce boards six inches wide, laying -the strips from bow to stern. - -Fig. 9 will show the position of the logs with cross-timbers above, on -top of which the planking may be seen. To the under side of the -cross-beams and midway between the logs, planks should be fastened that -will run the entire length of the raft. These are to form a bearing -against which the upper bilge of the barrels will rest. Fig. 9 shows the -heads of three barrels, each the end one of a number that are chained -together and run all along under the raft to give it sufficient buoyancy -to counteract the displacement that would be caused by the weight of the -house and occupants. - -Fig. 10 is a side view of those same barrels, showing the position they -occupy and the distance from one to the other. Oil-barrels are the best -for this purpose, and after being well bunged they should be treated to -several good coats of copper paint before being drawn under the raft. It -would be well to leave a gallon of oil in each barrel, as it keeps the -glue sizing in good condition, and prevents it from yielding to the -dampness caused by the water, the pressure of which might in time find -its way through small cracks or openings. - -A few yards of wrought-iron chain sufficiently heavy for the purpose can -be obtained and cut into short lengths, and each end should be fitted -with an eye-plate with four holes in it, which plates are to be fastened -to the ends of the barrels with short, fat screws, having first -thoroughly smeared the back of each with white-lead. The barrels should -be arranged about one foot apart, and if the logs are from twenty-four -to thirty inches in diameter at the butt end there should be just enough -space to accommodate the three rows of barrels between the four logs as -shown in Fig. 9. - -Across the logs at the bow and stern attach the planking, to extend down -a foot below the water-line, and with short uprights against which to -nail, fasten weather-boards along the sides of the raft to cover the -logs and come up flush with the deck line. - -Seven feet in from the ends of the raft lay cross-stringers, three by -six inches, at distances of eighteen inches apart, on which to place the -floor of the house. This flooring may be of narrow spruce boards, planed -on one side and having matched edges. - -The uprights for the house construction are placed on the flooring beams -and sills, and securely pinned to them, and the cross-beams at top of -house should be placed the same distance apart as the floor beams to -sustain the weight above, as the top of the house or upper deck will be -the open-air living-room. The side elevation (Fig. 11) shows the -position of windows that will be placed on both sides of the house, and -another illustration (Fig. 12 A and B) shows both front and rear -elevations of the house, as well as the location of companionway and -deck-rails. - -The deck plan (Fig. 13) shows the arrangement of the house and how it is -divided into the several compartments. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 - DETAILS OF A HOUSE-RAFT -] - -In the front, the dining and living saloon is a room measuring about -eight feet in width and eleven feet in length. At one end a couch is -placed which, if necessary, can be used as a bed; and close to it are -two large windows—one overlooking the fore-deck, the other giving a view -from the side of the house. At the other end of the room a neat -china-cupboard is built into the corner, and in the opposite corner the -front door and a window are placed. One of the illustrations is an -interior view of this cabin, showing how comfortable and attractive it -can be made to appear. As it is a sort of general mess-room and -living-cabin, it can be decorated and kept as such in a ship-shape -manner. - -Fishing-rods, guns, and nets against the wall will take up little space, -while in the locker under the cupboard a variety of sporting -paraphernalia can be stored. - -Leading aft from this saloon, a passageway opens into the galley, a room -six feet and six inches wide by eleven feet long, where all the -cooking-utensils and stores are kept. - -This galley should be painted a light gray or ivory white, with several -coats of paint mixed for outside use, so the wood-work can all be wiped -down with a damp cloth when necessary. White is always the best color -for a kitchen or galley, and it has the appearance of cleanliness that -no other color will give; it will be found to keep a room much cooler -also, and for that reason it is recommended. A rug or rag carpet will be -an acceptable covering for the floor, which should be treated to several -coats of yellow-ochre paint. - -Between the dining-saloon and the galley two state-rooms are placed, so -the passageway runs between them, and from which the doors open that -lead into them. These rooms are each about eight feet and six inches -long by nearly five feet wide, and two berths, each three feet wide, are -built in the rooms. Both rooms have large windows, and spaces for corner -wash-stands; and as the doors open against the ends of the berths, there -is no lost space nor wasted room. - -Rows of hooks will accommodate clothing, and the lower berth should be -at least twenty-two inches up from the floor to allow room to slide a -trunk or two under it. These rooms can be ceiled and papered, or -painted, as a matter of choice, but a few coats of varnish will render -the wood-work in good shape and proof against dampness. - -All the windows and doors in this boat can be of stock sizes, so that -the cost of special sizes can be avoided. The sheathing may be of cedar -shingles or of clapboards, as the cost is about the same. The clapboards -should be painted, and will look better than shingles, although a very -artistic effect is had by staining the shingles and painting the door -and window casings in shades to match, preferably in the brown and -olive-green shades. - -The flooring of the upper deck should be of regular flooring boards with -matched edges and planed on one side. Over this flooring canvas should -be stretched and tacked, and afterwards given two or three coats of oil -and varnish to make it water-proof, and finally treated to a coat or two -of lead-colored paint. The seams should all be well laid down, and -fastened with copper or tinned tacks, driven about two inches apart. It -would be well to give the boards two good thick coats of paint before -the canvas is applied, so that when the oil soaks through the canvas it -will soften the paint somewhat, and help to hold the canvas in its -proper place. - -Leading from the fore-deck to the upper deck a stair or companionway is -built, and anchored securely in place to the front of the house. The -platform at the head of the staircase is braced over the front doorway -by means of two iron rods that act as brackets, and which are screwed -securely both to the under side of the platform and to the door-casing. -This can be an open stairway composed of two side ways and eleven -treads, the ends of the treads being anchored in grooves cut in the -ways, and securely fastened with screws. - -The rail around the deck is of common iron gas-pipe held in place by -sockets and uprights. If the piping cannot be had, then hickory or -hard-wood poles one inch and a half in diameter may be employed and held -in place by uprights three inches wide and thirty inches high, through -which two holes have been bored to receive the poles. - -Around the fore and after decks a stringer three by six inches can be -spiked down, and to the sides near the bow and stern large cleats should -be bolted fast, by which the raft can be moored. Amidships at the bow a -large post may be fastened, around which to attach a tow-line if -necessary, and at the stern a rudder is arranged, with the post -projecting up through the deck for a distance of a foot or eighteen -inches. A mortise should be cut in the top of this post, into which the -end of a tiller can be inserted when steering the craft, either when in -tow or under sail. - -A mast twenty-five or thirty feet long can be stepped amidships against -the front of the house, and strapped fast to the upper deck with a -horseshoe band. A step-block can be fastened to the deck into which the -tenoned end of the mast will fit. - -A yard-arm about twenty feet long, or longer if desired, can be arranged -to hoist nearly to the top of the mast, and from which a large -square-sail may be rigged so the lower corners will fasten to outriggers -four or five feet long that can be temporarily braced at the sides of -the boat when sail is set. This pole affords a good place from which to -fly club or college colors, and from which to suspend lines of colored -and Japanese lanterns to illuminate at night. This mast should be six -inches in diameter at the base, and gradually taper near the top, and if -a sail is to be used frequently, it would be a good plan to bobstay and -shroud the stick with some standing rigging, so as to relieve it from -the entire strain of a large sail. - -The top of the house affords a living-room twenty-three feet long and -twelve feet wide, and in that space a number of chairs, a table, -hammocks, and benches can be accommodated. - -For lake, river, and bay use this deck can be covered by a large awning, -supported at the centre by a ridge-pole, and at the sides by upright -posts that hold a stout wire in place, over which the striped awning -canvas is caught. Drop-curtains at the sides will be convenient to ward -off the bright sunlight, and this deck-room will be found the most -delightful place to spend the pleasant days and evenings. - -Along the inland waterways a raft of this description is a most -desirable craft, as it can be towed from place to place, and for -pleasure purposes its value cannot be overestimated, as it is a base for -hunting and fishing as well as a retreat from village life; and the -pleasure and comfort that can be had from a raft like this can well be -appreciated when once tried. - -To build a house-raft on these plans is not a difficult nor an expensive -piece of work, and outside of the cost of the lumber, timber, barrels, -and logs the amount is limited, unless finish is contemplated. With -materials at hand and the help of three or four good workers, it should -not require more than a week to construct this raft and house, and if -fitted and painted in the manner described the cost should not exceed -from two hundred to three hundred dollars, including all labor and -material, according to the locality in which it is constructed. - - - A Float - -In the spring, when every one who owns a boat of any sort is painting -and repairing his craft, boat-houses, and floats, a few suggestions in -regard to the floats will be found of practical value. - -My chum and I own two canoes and a row-boat. The first year we built a -boat-house, which exhausted our funds, and we were obliged to wait till -the next spring before we could consider the expense of making a float. -Most floats are constructed of spars on logs, with a mooring on top. - -As we prepared to make the float ourselves, we wanted to find the -easiest and cheapest way of doing so. The spars were costly, and, -besides, are clumsy, and for a float of adequate size they would have to -be so large that we could not move them alone. - -As we lived in the city we could not get logs, or, if we could, we -should have had a big bill for cartage. It was while we were painting -the boat-house one afternoon that we saw an empty barrel go floating by. -My chum said he had an idea that we could make a float after all. We -went to one of the grocery stores and got four new flour-barrels, with -the heads, at a cost of twenty-five cents apiece. - -We took them, two by two, over to the boat-house, and then went to a -near-by lumber-yard and got three two-by-three sixteen-foot joists, -which cost us fifty-five cents, and one hundred square feet of boards -such as are sold at thirty dollars a thousand feet. Some nails and our -tools, and we were ready to begin work. - -First we laid two barrels end to end about two feet apart; then about -twelve feet from them we laid the other two in the same way. Then we -took two of the joists and laid them on each side of the barrels on -edge. Taking the other, we cut it in two pieces six feet long, which -left a waste space of four feet in length. We then nailed the two -sixteen-foot pieces and the two six-foot pieces together in the form of -a rectangle as in Fig. 14. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 -] - -Then, having propped the barrels to keep them in place, we lifted this -hollow rectangle onto them so that it rested on their sides as in Fig. -15. Cutting the four-foot joists into four one-foot pieces, we utilized -them as corner braces. - -Next we fastened the barrels to the frame, and, after painting them with -a coat of thick paint to fill the cracks, we launched the craft. Then we -covered the frame with the boards, laying them crosswise. A ring-bolt in -each corner and a roller in the middle, and an old hose-pipe tacked -around the edges, completed the float as shown in Fig. 16. - -This we found was a most excellent float, and, above all, it was light, -could be hauled out on the bank easily, or stored during the winter. - -As it rose and fell with the tide there was no trouble in launching the -boats at any time, whereas with a dock the pleasures of launching at -low-water are too well known to be described. - -Below is a table of expenditures: - - Barrels, at 25 cents each $1.00 - Joists, at $20 per M .55 - Boards, at 30 per M 3.00 - Nails, at 4 cents a pound .20 - Paint, at 20 cents a can .20 - Rings, at 20 cents each .80 - ——— - Total $5.75 - -While the prices of these articles, particularly the lumber, have risen -somewhat, the cost of this float will remain extremely small. - - - - - Chapter XVII - - MARLINE-SPIKE SEAMANSHIP - - -Ropes may be joined to one another either by knotting or by splicing. If -the rope belongs to the running rigging (such as halyards, sheets, etc.) -of the vessel, it will be necessary to put a splice in it, as a knot -would refuse to render (pass) through the swallow (opening) in the -block. There are three kinds of splices in general use—namely, the long, -the short, and the eye-splice. When joining running rigging a long -splice is always employed, as it does not increase the diameter of the -rope, and when neatly made cannot easily be detected. The short splice -is very bulging, but it can be made quickly and is employed in all cases -where the rope does not pass through blocks. The eye-splice is used for -making a permanent loop in the end of a rope, such, for instance, as is -seen in the hawsers by which steamboats are temporarily made fast to a -dock, the loop or eye being thrown over the spile on the pier. Let us -first consider the making of the latter splice. - - - Splices - -THE EYE-SPLICE (Fig. 1).—Open the end of the rope and lay the strands 1, -2, 3 upon the standing part as shown in A in Fig. 1; now push strand 4 -through the rope as shown in B; next thrust strand 5 over the part -through which the former was passed, and last push the strand 6 through -on the opposite side. Repeat this once, then cut off the remaining ends, -and the splice will appear as in C. - -[Illustration: FIG. 1. THE EYE-SPLICE FIG. 2. THE SHORT SPLICE FIG. 3. -THE LONG SPLICE] - -THE SHORT SPLICE (Fig. 2).—Hold the rope B (Fig. 2 A) in the left hand; -pass the strand 4 over 1, and having thrust it through under 3, pull it -taut; take strand 5 and pass it over 2 and under 1; pass strand 6 over -the first strand next to it and under the second. Shift the rope around -and treat the other side in the same way, and the result will be as -shown in Fig. 2 B. This single tucking of the ends is not sufficient for -strength, so repeat the operation once, then cut off the ends of the -strands. - -THE LONG SPLICE (Fig. 3).—Unlay (untwist) the two ends to be joined some -two or three feet, and place the ends together in the same manner as -explained for the short splice. Now take the strand 1 and unlay it as -far back as A, and in the groove left in the rope wind the strand 2; -unlay the strand 3 and in its place lay-up (wind) the strand 4. At this -stage the rope will represent the appearance of Fig. 3 B. The middle -strands, 5 and 6, will now be knotted with a simple overhand knot Fig. -3 C, care being observed that the knot is formed to follow the lay -(form) of the rope. Next divide these two strands equally as shown in -Fig. 3 D, and tuck them into the rope on the same principle as explained -for the short and eye splice. The remaining strands will be treated in -the same manner, after which stretch the rope well and cut off the ends. - - - Knots - -REEF KNOT (Fig. 4).—This commonly used knot is also known as a flat knot -and square knot, and is one of the most valuable of the many employed. -As its name implies, it is used to tie the reef points of a sail, the -stops (short lengths of rope) used to secure the jib to the bowsprit -when the sail is lowered, etc. Should a person find it necessary in -order to affect an escape from a burning building to fashion a line by -tearing sheets into lengths and tying them together, this knot should be -employed, for it will not slip and the bulge where the strips are tied -will afford good hold for the hands. In order to make the knot, simply -tie an overhand knot, then pass the ends so that they shall take the -same lay (form) as the crossed parts beneath. Should the ends be passed -(crossed) wrong, an Old Granny knot (Fig. 5) will be the result, and -this knot will capsize (pull out of shape) and slip as soon as a strain -is put upon it. - -BOWLINE KNOT (Fig. 6).—Take the end (1) of the rope in the right hand -and the standing part (2) in the left hand; lay the end over the -standing part and turn the left wrist so that the standing part forms a -loop (4) enclosing the end; now lead the end back of the standing part -and above the loop and bring the end down through the loop again as -shown. A bowline of this kind, sometimes called a single bowline, is -employed in a variety of ways. Seamen sit in the bight (3) of this shape -to be hoisted aloft under certain circumstances, and two towing hawsers -are often made fast to each other by two bowlines, the bight of one -being passed through the bight of the other. - -BOWLINE ON A BIGHT (Fig. 7).—Double the rope, and take the double end -(1) in the right hand, the standing part (2) of the rope in left hand; -lay the end over the standing part, and by turning the left wrist form a -loop (3), having the end inside; now pull up enough of the end (1) to -dip under the bight (4), bringing the end towards the right and dipping -it under the bight, then passing it up to the left over the loop and -hauling taut. This knot is employed in the same way as explained for the -single bowline, and it may also be stated that it affords much amusement -as a puzzle, for if the standing part (2) is held and the knot presented -to be untied, only those familiar with the way in which it is made will -be apt to discover the secret of dipping the end (1) back and undoing -the knot by handling it in a reverse manner to that described for its -manufacture. - -RUNNING BOWLINE (Fig. 8).—The only difference between this knot and the -one described under the head of “Bowline” is that the end (1) of the -rope is taken around the standing part (2), and then a single bowline -(3) is tied on its own part. As will be understood by reference to the -diagram, this forms a slipknot or lasso, and in fact it is employed for -the same purposes as the latter. When a shark is hooked by sailors the -great fish is hauled up until his head is out of water, then a running -bowline is made around the hook-line and allowed to fall down over the -fins, when it is hauled taut and the strain taken off the hook and line, -so that the danger of the fish escaping may be greatly lessened, for the -line is apt to break from the thrashing of the creature or the hook pull -out. - -WALL KNOT (Fig. 9).—Unlay the end of the rope and whip (tie) it where -shown, and form a bight of strand 1, and hold it down at the side -represented by 2; pass the end of 3 around 1, and the end of 4 around 3 -and through the bight of 1, then the knot will appear as shown in Fig. -10; now haul the parts taut and the knot will be formed. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 - Fig. 17 - Fig. 18 - Fig. 19 - Fig. 20 - Fig. 21 - Fig. 22 - Fig. 23 - Fig. 24 - KNOTS -] - -CROWNED WALL KNOT (Fig. 11).—Over the top of the knot lay the strand 1, -then lay strand 2 over 1, and strand 3 over 2, and pass it through the -bight of 1; now haul taut the parts and the knot will take the shape -shown in Fig. 12. - -DOUBLE WALL AND DOUBLE CROWN KNOT (Fig. 13).—This is made by allowing -the strands to follow their respective parts round, first walling, then -crowning, as shown in the diagram. This formation is also used as a -Stopper Knot and a Man Rope Knot, although a proper Stopper Knot is -shown in Fig. 14. It is a very beautiful knot when nicely made, and as a -fancy knot is common on yachts and naval vessels. - -MATTHEW WALKER KNOT (Fig. 15).—As its name implies, this knot is named -after the man who invented it. It is exceedingly simple and easy to -make, and is in common use on board of all vessels. Unlay the strands -for a short distance, and pass the end 1 around the rope and through its -own bight; next the strand 2 underneath and through the bight of 1, also -its own bight; last the strand 3 underneath and through the bights of 1 -and 2. When hauled taut the knot will appear as in Fig. 16. - -DIAMOND KNOT (Fig. 17).—Unlay the strands as for a Matthew Walker Knot, -and form three bights and then take strand 1 over 2 and through the -bight of 3; take strand 2 over 3 and through the bight of 1; take strand -3 over 1 and through the bight of 2, then haul the parts taut, and lay -up (arrange) the strands of the rope again, and the knot will then -appear as in Fig. 18. What is known as a Double Diamond Knot (Fig. 19) -may be made by leading the strands through two single bights, having the -ends come out at the top of the knot, then leading the last strand -through two double bights; last lay the strands up as previously -explained, and the knot will show as in Fig. 19. - -TURK’S HEAD KNOT (Fig. 20).—This is purely an ornamental knot, and is -used to beautify yoke lines for a rowing boat, man ropes, ridge ropes, -gangway ropes, etc. The material used in the construction of this knot -is regulated according to the character of the article to be decorated, -ranging from twine to signal halyard stuff (line). To make this knot, -form a clove hitch, and bring the bight of 1 (Fig. 21) under the bight -of 2, then take the end up through it, make another cross with the -bights, and take the end down. Fig. 22 represents a Turk’s Head of two -lays, but it may have any number of lays, it being necessary only to -follow the lead around according to the formation desired. - -ROPE YARN KNOT (Fig. 23).—It is to be explained that a rope yarn is -simply one of the several parts which make a strand of rope. When a -strand is untwisted, its parts become rope yarns. These yarns are used -for a number of purposes, such as for rough seizings, etc. When a -considerable length of rope yarn is required, it is necessary to knot it -smoothly, and this is effected in the following manner: Split in halves -the two ends of the rope yarns, and crotch and tie the two opposite -ends, then jam the tie and cut off the remaining ends. - -LARK’S HEAD KNOT (Fig. 24).—This knot is used on the same principle as -explained for the Slippery Hitch; when it is desired to undo it quickly, -simply pull out the wooden toggle 1. The making of the knot will be -fully understood by consulting the diagram. - -Ropes are temporarily fastened to one another, or to a spar, hook, -ring-bolt, etc., by bends and by hitches. These are all more or less -simple, and a little practice and patience is all that is necessary for -the young reader to become expert in their manufacture. Let us first -consider the bends in general use. - - - Bends - -COMMON BEND (Fig. 25).—This is also known as a single bend, and is used -for making one rope fast to another in a hurry. Make a bight with one -rope, and hold it in the left hand; pass the end of the other rope 1 -through the bight 2, then back round the two parts 3, over the rope 4, -under the rope 5, and over the short end of the loop. If the end 1 is -taken around once more and through the bight again, as shown in Fig. 26, -the bend will stand a greater strain and be less liable to jam. The bend -shown in Fig. 26 is known as a double bend. - -CARRICK BEND (Fig. 27).—This, like the common bend, is used for bending -hawsers together, but is a trifle more difficult to make. Make a bight -with the end of one rope; pass the end of the other rope through the -bight and over the standing part of the first rope where marked 1, then -under the end 2, and again through the bight and over the standing part -3. - -FISHERMAN’S BEND (Fig. 28).—First pass the rope twice round the spar or -ring, which act is understood by sailors as “taking two round turns,” -next take a half hitch round the standing part, then thrust the end -under the two turns, and last half hitch the end round the standing part -A. When hauled taut the bend will appear as shown in Fig. 29. - -SHEET BEND (Fig. 30).—Pass the end 1 through the eye; take two turns -round, observing in each case that the end passes under the standing -part 2. The greater the strain, the more the standing part binds the two -turns, and insures them from slipping. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 25 - Fig. 26 - Fig. 27 - Fig. 28 - Fig. 29 - Fig. 30 - Fig. 31 - Fig. 32 - Fig. 33 -] - - - Hitches - -TWO HALF HITCHES (Fig. 31).—This is an exceedingly simple way of -fastening a rope, and it has the double advantage of being proof against -jamming. Take a turn around the object to which it is desired to fasten; -bring the end 1 on top of the standing part 2, then pass it under and -bring it up through the bight; repeat this process, haul taut, and the -result will show as in Fig. 32. In case the hitch is to be subjected to -a great strain, lash the end of the rope to the standing part where -marked 3 in Fig. 32. - -CLOVE HITCH (Fig. 33).—This is another very useful hitch, but is only -employed when the strain upon it is temporary. It is in general use for -bending a heaving-line (small rope) to a hawser so that a coil of the -former may be thrown from a vessel to the dock and, after it is caught, -the hawser pulled ashore. - -SLIPPERY HITCH (Fig. 34).—This hitch is simply a turn around a spar or -other object or through an eye, the end carried across the standing -part, and a loop put through the bight, the end 1 being allowed to hang -out. When it is desired to separate the hitch, pull out the loop by -hauling on the end 1. - -BLACKWALL HITCH (Fig. 35).—This is used in hoisting. Simply take a turn -around the back of the hook, crossing the parts of the rope in front as -shown. When a strain is put on the standing part of the rope, the -underneath part is jammed and slipping prevented. - -TIMBER HITCH (Fig. 36).—A hitch employed in towing spars and logs, as it -will not slip. Pass the end 1 of the rope around the spar and lead it up -and around the standing part 2, then pass two or three turns with the -end around its own part as shown in the illustration. - -ROLLING HITCH (Fig. 37).—A very good method of clapping (fastening) a -tail-block. Take a hitch with the tail 1; take another hitch over the -first; pass the end under the standing part 2, and twist the remainder -of the tail round the rope, following the lay. A tail-block, being -portable, is convenient to make fast anywhere about decks or the -rigging, and a rope being rove through this block, a purchase, called a -“whip,” is created. - -MAGNUS HITCH (Fig. 38).—Some people confuse this hitch with the rolling -hitch just described, but a comparison of the two will explain the -difference between them. With the end of the rope 1 pass two turns over -the spar; carry the end in front of the standing part 2; pass it again -under the spar and bring it up through the bight. The value of this -hitch is its insurance against slipping in the direction represented by -the arrow. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 34 - Fig. 35 - Fig. 36 - Fig. 37 - Fig. 38 - Fig. 39 - Fig. 40 - Fig. 41 - Fig. 42 - Fig. 43 - Fig. 44 -] - -CATSPAW HITCH (Fig. 39).—Like the Blackwall Hitch, this one is used for -making a rope fast to a hook for hoisting purposes. Seize the bight of -the rope in your two hands, and by turning the wrists form the two -loops, then hang these loops on the hook as in Fig. 40. - -SHEEPSHANK HITCH (Fig. 41).—A quick way of shortening a rope without -cutting it is to convert a portion of it into a shape known as a -sheepshank. Gather up the spare rope and lay it in parallel lines as -shown. These parallel lines may be represented by any number, according -to the quantity of spare rope and the length of the sheepshank. In the -accompanying diagrams we show the smallest sheepshank that can be made, -consisting of three parallel lines. After forming the rope as shown in -Fig. 41, take a half hitch with the standing part 1 round the bight 4, -and repeat this at the other extremity with the standing part 2 and the -bight 3. The result will be as shown in Fig. 42. If it is desired to -make this hitch doubly secure, put a seizing (fastening) 7 on the loops -5 and standing parts 6 (Fig. 43). - -MARLING HITCH (Fig. 44).—Employed to make a running binding which can be -put on and removed quickly. - - - - - Part IV - - IN THE WOODS - - - - - Chapter XVIII - - CAMPS AND CAMPING - - -Camping in the mountains, fields, and forests is one of the most -delightful features of life in the summer-time. But a good deal of the -fun depends upon doing things the right way. - -To experienced campers many of the following ideas and descriptions may -be familiar, but among them there may be some suggestions that will be -found of value. - -The tent is the all-important thing, and to make one large enough for -two or three boys is not a difficult matter. What the boy does not know -on his first camping expedition, necessity will teach him, and much -satisfaction may be had in constructing bunks and tables and the other -varied paraphernalia of camp life. - - - A Tent of Medium Size - -Fig. 1 shows a serviceable and roomy tent and fly of medium size, which -measures eight feet wide, ten feet long, and seven feet high to the peak -or ridge. The side drops or aprons are thirty inches high, and against -them on both sides of the tent cots may rest on the ground as shown in -the illustration. - -The fly is ten feet wide and fifteen feet long, and is an extra covering -for the tent in case of a hard rain-storm; while in clear weather and -with another ridge-pole and upright, it can be used to lengthen the tent -by extending it out beyond the front, where it is to be held fast with -stakes and stanchion-ropes. - -The plan shown in Fig. 2 gives the dimensions of canvas, and when the -final sewing is done the edges C C at both ends of the tent are brought -together and securely overcast with stout waxed cord. - -The only openings are at front and back, and they can be closed by means -of tabs and button-holes at one side, and large bone buttons made fast -to the other edge in a corresponding position to the tabs. - -Where the iron pins of the uprights project through the canvas, make a -circular patch at least six inches in diameter with two or three -thicknesses of the canvas, and sew it fast both at the hole and around -the outer edge. This will strengthen the canvas at the most vital point, -and prevent it from tearing if a heavy wind should strain the tent. - -Twilled cotton sail-cloth is the proper material of which to make the -tent, but if this cannot be had, then a stout quality of unbleached -muslin will answer very well for clear weather; but in wet weather it -will not shed the water so well as the twilled duck. The seams can be -sewed on a machine, but they will be much stronger if sewed by hand with -white cotton cord well waxed. All the edges of the cloth should be bound -with rope about the size and strength of clothes-line, so that any -attachments made to the edges will be borne by the rope instead of all -the strain coming on the canvas. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - A TENT OF MEDIUM SIZE -] - -On the dotted lines D D in the plan, which indicates the inner edges of -the aprons, one-inch harness-rings are to be sewed on the straps, -through which to reave the guy and stanchion ropes. There should be four -straps to this tent, making five strips of canvas two feet wide; and -these strengthening straps are three-quarters of an inch in width, and -made by lapping the canvas over and sewing it along both edges as shown -in the little diagram marked E below the plan in Fig. 2. - -If a closed end is preferred instead of the flaps at the rear of the -tent, a back, in one piece, as shown in Fig. 3, can be made and sewed -all around the edges, bringing the edges A A against the edge B, and -joining the vertical edges C C to the ends of the side aprons on the -main sheet. - -For ventilation, a flap opening may be made at the top of this end as -you can see in Fig. 3; and with tabs and buttons this can be closed when -necessary, or tied back with strings, either to the inside or outside of -the tent, where they should be caught to small harness-rings sewed to -the canvas. - -The fly is bound with rope all around the outer edge, from which ropes -extend out from each end, so that in hot weather, if the sun plays on -the tent, it may be kept cool by raising the outer ends of the fly and -propping them up with poles at the four corners, and perhaps one extra -one at the middle of each side. (See the illustration for the canopy -over the table and seats, Fig. 10). - -The ridge-pole to hold up this tent is of pine or spruce, ten feet long, -one inch and a half thick, and four inches wide. The uprights are two -inches square, with the sharp corners planed off, making them octagonal -in shape, and they should be from seven to nine feet in length. The -upper ends of the uprights are bound with cord or an iron band to -prevent them from splitting when the iron pin is driven in place. They -are to be bored to receive a half-inch pin, so that eight inches of it -will project above the top of the upright as shown in Fig. 4. -Five-eighth-inch holes are bored in the ridge-pole one inch and a half -from each end, and through these the pins in the uprights will pass. - -The stanchion-ropes are caught around the heads of long pegs or stakes, -twenty-four inches long, two inches wide, and one inch in thickness, -with a notch cut three inches from the top as shown in Fig. 5. Cleats -four inches long, two inches wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick -are provided with two holes through which the stanchion-ropes pass, and -they are used to draw the ropes taut, as shown in Fig. 5, where the -strain on the long rope pulls the short end down and chocks the rope. - -The stakes are to be driven into the ground so that but five or six -inches of them project. The lower they are the better purchase they get -in the ground and the more securely the tent is anchored. - -The extra ridge-pole for the fly can be cut at one end so that it will -lap in a corresponding manner on the front end of the tent ridge-pole as -shown in Fig. 6. For long tents, where it is necessary to have the -sticks in short lengths, for convenience in carrying them, the -ridge-pole can be in two or three pieces, lapped together at the ends as -shown in the figure drawing, so that the pin in the upright will -complete the union. - -When erecting the tent, dig two holes for the uprights to rest in, and -embed them so that seven feet of pole will be above the ground, on which -the ridge-pole will rest, and in turn the canvas covering. The stakes -are driven three feet out on either side of the aprons so that the -stanchion-ropes will line with the pitch of the tent. - - - A Large Camping-tent - -For a company of boys numbering from four to eight a large camping-tent -is shown in Fig. 7. - -If it is made twenty feet long, ten feet wide, and eight feet high to -the ridge-pole, it will accommodate six cots and two hammocks swung from -the ridge-pole. - -A plan by which to cut the cloth and make the tent is shown in Fig. 8, -and in Fig. 9 the plan for the back is given. If an open back be -preferred, the flaps shown at the bottom of Fig. 8 may be duplicated at -the rear of the tent. - -This tent, when erected, is twenty feet long and eight feet high from -the ground to the ridge-pole, with the aprons at the sides three feet -high instead of thirty inches as in the smaller tent. Three uprights two -inches and a half square support the ridge-pole, which for convenience -of transportation may be in two pieces and lapped at the middle as shown -in Fig. 6. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 - TENTS AND CANOPIES -] - -This tent is made in the same manner as described for the smaller one, -and a fly twenty-two feet long and eighteen feet wide is supported over -the tent where, in clear weather, it can be propped up at the outer -edges as shown at the left side of the illustration. The fly is drawn -back at the right side to show how the guy and stanchion ropes are -attached to the stakes, so as to prevent the wind from blowing the tent -backward and forward as well as from side to side. - -A flag-pole four feet high may be erected on the middle upright by -leaving the pin at the top longer, so that it will extend up and into a -hole bored in the lower end of the flag-pole. The lower end of the pole -must be bound with cord or wire to prevent splitting. A small pulley at -the top, and a set of halyards, will make it possible to raise a club -flag or pennant. - -All around the lower edge of the tent one-inch galvanized rings should -be sewed fast about twelve inches apart. Through these the apron and -ends may be tied fast to short stakes or wooden pins driven in the -ground. This will be quite necessary in the event of a storm or strong -wind, as otherwise the lower part of the tent will blow up and flap -around in a disagreeable manner. - -When erecting a tent of this size, care should be taken to anchor it -securely and brace it well with the stanchion and guy ropes, for its -size offers considerable resistance to a strong wind. A little care and -forethought will sometimes avert a catastrophe with a tent, and when -erecting one do not trust anything to luck, but snug your tent and keep -ropes taut. - -If it is possible to get some boards and a few joist, it would be well -to make a flooring, if you are to stay in one place for any length of -time. - -Always select a level, dry place for the tent, and if possible erect it -on ground that is slightly higher than that around it so as to drain the -surface-water away. - - - Flies and Canopies - -Every camping-tent should have a fly—that is, an extra canvas roof—for -no matter how good the canvas of which it is made, it will become -thoroughly soaked in a heavy rain; but if protected by a fly the latter -will lead the water off and receive the greater part of the wetting. -Such a fly is shown clearly in the illustration of the large -camping-tent. Fig. 7. - -The fly should always be a trifle wider than the tent is long, and in -length it should be long enough to cover the roof of the tent and extend -a foot or eighteen inches beyond the sides, where it rests on the -stanchion-ropes and is lashed fast to pegs in the ground. The overhang, -or extension, leads the water out beyond the apron of the tent and -prevents the ground from becoming wet close to the tent. - -Another use for this overhang is to prevent the rain driving against the -aprons of the tent and wetting them close to the cots. In fair weather, -when it is possible to dine outside the tent, the fly can be used as a -canopy, if drawn over a ridge-pole and held up at the ends by means of -poles and stanchion-ropes. - -A canopy of this kind is shown in Fig. 10, where it is erected over a -table and seats. It is always well, indeed, to have two flies to a tent, -so that one can be used for a canopy or an auxiliary tent, under which a -fire can be built and meals cooked and eaten when it is raining. - -For a small camp a fly or canopy, twelve feet wide and eighteen feet -long, will prove very useful in many ways; but for a larger camp it -should measure fifteen by twenty-five feet. Under one of this size a -party of ten or twelve people can be comfortably seated, with plenty of -room all around. - -Flies or canopies should be bound with rope all around the edges, and at -distances from twelve to eighteen inches apart three-quarter-inch -galvanized rings should be made fast. Through these stanchion-ropes may -be reared wherever it is necessary to attach the sheet to branches or -poles set in the ground. - - - A House-tent - -One of the latest features in the modern camp is the house-tent, in -which the lower part is floored and boarded half-way up, while the -balance of the sides and the roof are of canvas. This style of camp-tent -has become very popular in California and through the Southwest, where -at least six months of each year are spent out-of-doors. For the boys -who are about to build a permanent camp for several years’ use, a -house-tent such as shown in Figs. 11 and 12 will prove very -satisfactory, and more desirable than the plain pitched tent. - -Fig. 11 shows the house-tent closed in stormy weather or at night, while -in Fig. 12 the house is open for fair-weather living. One wooden side is -let down to form a piazza, and the canvas side above it is propped out -with poles so as to act as a canopy or sunshade. - -The frame is twelve feet long, eight feet wide, and nine feet high from -the roof to the peak. The wood sides are three feet and six inches above -the floor, and out beyond the sides of the house the joist may extend to -support one or both of the wooden sides, which can be let down by means -of hinges along the bottom. When the sides are lowered they act as -piazzas and nearly double the floor space of the house-tent; while the -canvas sides, when propped out with long, slim poles, add equally to the -roof area in the way of sunshades. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 -] - -In Fig. 13 a clear idea is given for the framing, which is of spruce -planed on the four sides. The uprights and rafters are of -two-by-three-inch stock, while for the under timbers two-by-four or -preferably two-by-six rough stock can be used. The joist or flooring -beams rest on the ends of posts embedded two feet in the ground, to -which they are spiked with long, steel-wire nails. The flooring, of -four-inch matched boards, is laid on the space within the four corner -uprights, and the same or wider boards may be employed for the -sheathing. - -If both sides are to let down, a window can be set only at the back of -this house-tent; but if only one side lets down the window may be -arranged at the enclosed side between uprights the same as the rear -window is placed. - -The triangular end-pieces of canvas are attached to the frame with -copper or tinned tacks, so that they will not rust, and the roof and -both sides are of one piece made by sewing together lengths of canvas or -twilled sheeting. At the front and back it is drawn over the edges of -the end rails, forming the roof, and tacked to hold it in place. - -At the front, on either side of the doorway, the canvas may be arranged -to roll up in clear weather. The rolls are held to the upper frame-bar -with cord or straps as shown in Fig. 12. - -The front door is thirty inches wide and is made from boards and -battens, and provided with a knob lock by means of which it can be -opened from either side. - -The side that lets down to form the piazza is battened on the outside, -as may be seen in Fig. 11 where the house is closed. When the side is -down the battens drop in between the extended floor joist or beams. - -Folding-cots can be used in this house, or bunks may be built in against -the side and end—two at the side and one at the end under the window. -When the drop-side is up and fastened for the night, another cot can be -placed at that side, while from corner to corner a hammock may be swung. - -When camp is broken up in the fall the canvas is to be removed from the -framework and kept for next season, but the frame may be left standing. -It would be better to remove the door and sashes and slide them under -the floor, for they would offer too much resistance to the wind if left -standing in place, and might break or cause the framework of the house -to rack and become rickety during the winter storms and high winds. - -A coat or two of paint on the wood-work will improve its appearance -greatly and preserve the wood, if the house is to be used for a number -of seasons. - - - The New Tent - -One great drawback to the pitched or army tent is that in wet weather, -when one has to stay in-doors, it is not a comfortable abode unless you -sit down or keep close to the ground, for there is little or no head -room. - -In the illustration of the new tent with French roof (Fig. 14) you can -readily see the great advantage of this new method of construction, for -it affords a great deal of head room. - -Two uprights, three ridge-poles, and four angle-bars will be required -for the frame, and some long, slim poles with crotched ends can be cut -to prop the guy-ropes out from the tent as shown in the illustration. -For a party of three or four boys this tent should measure seven feet -and six inches high, six feet and six inches broad at the top, eight -feet at the bottom, and ten or twelve feet deep. The sides and top are -in one piece, twenty-one feet long and ten or twelve feet wide. The rear -end is made in one piece and sewed fast to the edges of the sides and -top. - -At the front two flaps are sewed to the top and sides. They each measure -seven feet and six inches long at the inner edge, four feet across the -bottom, three feet and five inches at the top, and seven feet long at -the outer edge. They are cut as shown in Fig. 15 A, and when the tent is -set up the canvas will appear as shown in Fig. 15 B. - -The frame is composed of two uprights two inches square and nine feet -long, eighteen inches of which is set into the ground. There are three -ridge-poles two inches in diameter and ten feet long; and four -brace-bars two inches square, four feet and three inches long, bevelled -at the lower ends to fit against the upright post as shown at Fig. 16 A. -An iron pin (Fig. 16 D) is driven in the top of each upright and at the -outer ends of the brace-bars over which the ridge-poles fit, they having -been provided with holes for the purpose. Angle-irons are screwed fast -to the bevelled ends of the brace-bars, and a collar of iron is made and -screwed to the uprights so that the tongue end of the angle-irons will -fit in them as shown at Fig. 16 B. Stout screw-eyes and wire hold the -braces in position at the top, as shown at Fig. 16 C, and so prevent the -outer ridge-poles from straining the canvas. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 - Fig. 17 - THE NEW TENT -] - -One of the best anchorages for the guy-ropes of a tent is made with the -lock-stake and deadeye cleat shown at Fig. 17 A. A stake with a notch to -hold the rope is driven into the ground, and another notched stake is -driven in close to the head, so that when in far enough the notch in the -latter will hold the head of the former as shown at Fig. 17 B. The -deadeye cleat is cut from hard-wood seven-eighths of an inch thick, and -is two inches wide, six inches long, and provided with two holes three -inches apart. At one end a jaw is cut, so that a rope may be caught in -it as shown in Fig. 17 A. Steel wire nails are passed through the holes -indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 17 C, and riveted at the point -ends to strengthen the deadeyes. - -The manner in which it is used is shown at Fig. 17 A, and if the holes -are made the same size as the diameter of the rope, the harder you pull -on the tent end of the rope, the more securely the deadeye cleat holds, -and the loose end of the rope caught first in the jaw can be given a -turn or two around the cleat to make it fast. - -The double-peg anchorage is better than a single one, and with this new -rope-fastener it will be an easy matter to stay a tent to withstand any -wind-storm. - - - Canvas Cots and Hammocks - -Cots are very necessary parts of the camping outfit, and may be made -either of canvas and poles or of boughs and leaves. The canvas cot is, -of course, much more comfortable than the one of boughs, but sometimes -it is not possible to transport them, and then the bough bed must be -resorted to. - -A simple canvas cot is easily made from two pine or spruce sticks seven -feet long, two inches in diameter, and free from knots or sappy places. -A piece of light canvas or twilled cotton duck fifty-four inches wide -and seventy-two inches long is sewed together so as to form a -cylindrical case thirty-six inches wide and seventy-two inches long. Lay -it flat and crease it along the edges, then run two or three lines of -stitching along both sides four inches in from the edges. This forms the -sleeve through which the poles are to be passed. - -Crotched sticks are to be embedded in the ground to support the ends of -the poles as shown in Fig. 18. These are to extend a foot or eighteen -inches above the ground, and should be three inches in diameter and -quite strong, so as to avoid breakage and a possible fall. - -If a folding-cot with portable ends is desired, it can be made to appear -as shown in Fig. 19 by constructing two folding ends, a middle pole, and -four iron brace-hooks. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 18 - Fig. 19 - Fig. 20 - Fig. 21 - Fig. 22 -] - -To make the cot twenty-six inches wide, procure the canvas and poles as -directed for the first cot. Bind the ends of the poles with wire or have -a blacksmith band them with iron ferrules, then bore the ends and drive -threaded pins in, having nuts at the ends as shown at Fig. 20 A. From -maple or oak two inches wide and an inch thick cut four legs thirty-two -inches long, and bore holes at one end and midway between ends, as shown -in Fig. 20 B, to receive the bolt ends in the poles. Bevel off the lower -ends of the sticks and place them in opposite directions, so that when -opened, in the form of an X, the ends will lie flat on the ground as -shown in Fig. 19. From pine or spruce cut a stick two inches square, and -provide the ends with bolts and nuts as shown in Fig. 20 C. This is for -the under brace, and extends from end to end where the bolt passes -through both legs, and is attached with a nut and washer. - -From iron an inch wide and less than a quarter of an inch in thickness -have a blacksmith cut four hook-braces eighteen inches long with a hole -at one end and a notch at the other. With round-headed screws attach two -of the braces near each end of the pole, as shown in Fig. 20 C, so that -when the cot is set up the notches will hook over screws driven in the -upper edge of each leg near the bottom as shown in Fig. 19. These will -steady the cot, and prevent it from rocking from end to end as it would -do if not braced. - -A hammock that can be swung between the uprights of a tent is made of -canvas thirty inches wide and seventy-two inches long. It is lapped over -at the ends and sewed with several lines of stitching, so as to receive -a two-inch bar to which the three ropes are made fast as shown in Fig. -21. The end ropes should be twenty-four inches long and the middle one -eighteen. From the bars at each end they are brought together and bound -to rings which slip over hooks made fast to the tent uprights, or they -can be lashed fast to the uprights. Any number of these hammocks may be -made and easily carried, as they roll up snugly and occupy very little -room in a bedding-kit. They are much easier to handle than a woven or -braided hammock, the strands of which are forever catching in everything -and anything with which they come into contact. - -When making a cot of boughs the most satisfactory and comfortable affair -is the basket-woven or lattice mattress of small, pliable saplings -trimmed and interwoven as shown in Fig. 22. The long pieces should be -alternated so that the large end of one stick will be next the small end -of another, and thus distribute the strain evenly over the lattice. This -arrangement applies also to the shorter or cross-pieces, and when -finished the mattress is laid on a pair of poles supported with crotched -sticks, as shown in Fig. 18, but without the canvas. - -Over this lattice short twigs with clusters of leaves are spread, to -make a soft mattress, and on these in turn a blanket or two can be -spread and tied down at the corners, so that the leaves may not become -dislodged. - - - Tables and Benches - -Every boy should know how to make a table from some fence boards, a rail -or two, and stakes for the legs. The table shown in Fig. 23 is made from -three boards about eight inches wide and five feet long battened -together at the ends and across the under side of the middle. - -A rail is nailed across two tree-trunks thirty-two inches from the -ground, to which one end of the boards are attached. Two stakes three -inches thick are driven in the ground four feet from the trees, and -across the upper ends of them a rail is nailed fast to support the other -ends of the boards. - -A larger table is shown in Fig. 24, and like the smaller one it is built -against two trees. The boards, three or four in number, should be from -six to eight feet long. They are nailed fast to four or five inch rails -attached to the tree-trunks and to stout posts embedded in the ground. -The middle of the table is supported by a batten, or rail, which is -nailed fast to the top of a post embedded under the centre of the table. - -Chairs made for camp life from rustic wood and pieces of board need not -be so well constructed that any great amount of time should be expended -on them, but they should be strong and serviceable. - -A simple chair that any boy can make from branches or small tree-trunks, -two or three inches in diameter, is shown in Fig. 25. The seat is -eighteen inches high, sixteen inches square, and the back posts are -thirty-six inches high. Two pieces of wood, eighteen inches long, are -cut as shown at Fig. 26 A, and two more, thirty-six inches long, are cut -as shown at B. The laps are cut out with saw and chisel so as to receive -the seat-rails, the braces, and the back board, which are made fast with -steel-wire nails as shown at C. The seat is made of ordinary boards -nailed to the top edges of the rails all around, and if the edge is -smoothed off there will be less liability to tear one’s garments. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 23 - Fig. 24 - Fig. 25 - Fig. 26 - Fig. 27 -] - -In the illustration of a canopy (Fig. 10, page 301), a table and benches -are shown. The table is thirty inches wide and five feet long, and it -can be built either detached or fast to the ground. If the corner-posts -are embedded a foot or eighteen inches in the ground it will make the -table firmer and less liable to rack than if built loose or detached. - -Two benches running the length of the tables are made in a similar -manner to the chairs, but if the corner-posts or legs are to be embedded -in the ground the side braces will not be necessary. The seat should be -eighteen inches high, sixteen inches wide, and from five to eight feet -long, as occasion requires, and with a middle brace it will appear as -shown in Fig. 27. - - - Camping Equipment - -In fitting out for a camping expedition it is always best to make a -memorandum of the things you will need some time before you start, for -so surely as you do not do this there will be some important things -forgotten. The stuff that will fill an ordinary clothes-basket should be -enough for a company of four boys, but for a greater number the supply -must be increased accordingly. - -In this list there must be included a kettle, two pans, tin or enamelled -dishes, a frying-pan or two, a broiler, a wooden pail for water, and -smaller tin pails; a lantern, candles, matches in tin boxes, hatchet or -axe, blankets, knives and forks, spoons, and a few other culinary -accessories. The dry groceries will have to be taken from home, unless -they can be purchased near the camp or from some farm-house. From the -latter it is generally possible to obtain butter, milk, eggs, a chicken -or two, and other food that you may stand in need of if hunting or -fishing fail you. - -In Fig. 28, showing a corner of the tent, a portable table is supporting -some of the things it would be well to have in camp, and while a boy may -think that he knows what is wanted, it would be well for him to take his -mother’s or older sister’s advice on the subject. - - - Lockers and Mess-kits - -Lock-boxes with handles, in which to store dry groceries and foods, and -mess-kits for the kitchen and dining ware, are among the most important -parts of the camping outfit. They may be made from ordinary -well-constructed boxes, and provided with hinged lids, a hasp and -padlock, and handles at either end by means of which they may be carried -easily. - -The lock-box shown in Fig. 29 A is eighteen inches wide, twenty-four -inches long, and twelve inches deep, and with two thin boards four -compartments are made as shown in Fig. 29 A. A lid is made of three -boards and two battens, and securely attached to the box with strap -hinges. - -A hasp and padlock as well as two handles can be purchased at a hardware -store and screwed fast to the chest. - -A mess-kit may be made of a box with both lid and bottom nailed on -securely. It is then sawed around three inches from one side, dividing -it so that quite a little of the wood is fast to both sides. With hinges -these are fastened together like a Gladstone bag, and on the inside, -pockets and straps can be arranged to accommodate cooking-utensils and -food-stuffs. Fig. 29 B shows this kit, and with a trunk-strap and a rope -it can be easily carried from place to place. - -For knives, forks, spoons, kettle-lids, and other small paraphernalia of -the camping outfit a nest of pockets may be made from denim or -unbleached muslin, like the one shown hanging on the wall in Fig. 28. -The pockets are commodious and will accommodate many little things, and -the nest can be folded over and tied at the corners with stout cord. A -nest of this description should be three feet long, thirty inches high, -and with three lines of pockets as shown in the illustration. The sewing -should be done by hand with heavy linen or carpet thread, so that the -stitching will not break. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 28 - Fig. 29 - Fig. 30 - Fig. 31 -] - -A carry-all (Fig. 30) is made of denim or light sail-cloth, and will be -found the most convenient sort of a catch-all, for it may be folded over -and rolled up, then bound with a shawl-strap to carry it easily. - -A piece of denim a yard wide and forty-two inches long is folded at the -dotted lines A A as shown in the plan (Fig. 31). The edges will then -reach the lines B B. Sew the flaps at the two ends and divide the long -pockets into smaller ones as shown in Fig. 30. Knives, forks, spoons, -and a variety of small things can be kept in this nest of pockets, and -when in camp it may be hung from one end by rings, so that the pockets -occupy a horizontal position and the contents can be easily gotten at. - - - A Stone Stove and Camp-fires - -The old-time tripod and kettle over an open fire of brush and logs is an -unhandy means of cooking, for a sudden gust of wind will blow the smoke -and sparks in all directions and dissipate the heat as well. - -The up-to-date campers will make a stone stove similar to the one shown -in Fig. 32. This holds the fire within the stone enclosure, and retains -the greater part of the heat, which in the open fire is blowing to the -four winds and giving very little benefit to the pot. - -Flat stones should be used in the construction of this stove, and if it -is possible to get some clay from the bed of a brook it can be used in -place of cement for sealing the joints. This of course will make the -fire burn better, as the only draught will then enter at the bottom, or -doorway, through which the sticks are fed to the fire. - -These doorways or draught-holes should be made on two or three sides of -the stove, and when one is in use the others may be closed or left open, -according to the strength of the wind and the direction from which it is -blowing. - -The pot should be hung on the ridge-pole so that it touches the top of -the stove and holds in the heat. Fish may be fried in a pan or broiled -much better than over an open fire, and water can be boiled quicker and -coffee made easier. - -This stove can be made either round or square, and if bricks are -available for use they will be better than stones as the joints are -closer and they are not so ungainly to handle. Over the stove a -ridge-pole or bar should be supported on a yoked stick at one end and a -twin-stick tripod at the other. The yoked or crotched stick is embedded -in the ground, or it can be the sawed-off stump of a small tree. The -lower ends of the twin sticks should be let into the ground for a foot -or eighteen inches, so that the ridge-bar can be removed without its -supports falling over. - -Always build a fire or a stove in the shade, for it will not burn so -well if the sun plays on it. In rainy weather a canopy over this stone -stove will keep it dry and cause it to burn better than if exposed to -the elements. - -Here are some other ideas for camp-fires proper. Let us suppose that the -party is provided with the necessary utensils for camp-cooking—a -camp-kettle, coffee-pot, frying-pan, saucepan, and some sort of -baking-pan. These should prove sufficient, unless the party intends -having quite elaborate menus. If it is intended to remain at the camp -only while cooking one or two meals, make your fire in this manner: Cut -two green poles about five or six inches thick and about two feet long. -In these cut notches about a foot apart. Level the ground where you -intend to build your fire, and lay these poles down with the notches up -and about three feet apart. Now cut two or three poles about four feet -long and lay them in these notches. Gather a good supply of dry wood, -grass, bark, or chips, and make your fire on the ground between the -poles. The air will circulate under and through the fire, and the poles -will prove just right to set your cooking-utensils on. Do not pile on -wood by the armful. Add a little at a time, and you will find you can -cook rapidly and well, and not burn your face and hands while attending -to your cooking. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 32 - Fig. 33 - Fig. 34 - Fig. 35 -] - -If it is intended to remain several meals at the camp it will pay to put -up a crane. This is built in this manner: Cut two green posts two or -more inches thick and three feet long, having forks at one end. Drive -these into the ground at each end of your fire. Cut another green pole -the same diameter and long enough to reach between the forks. Flatten -the ends so that they will set snug in the forks. - -The poles should be driven into the ground so that when the bail of the -kettle is slipped on the crane the bottom of the kettle will just clear -the fire. - -If the camp is to be of a permanent nature, or it is expected to remain -there for some days or weeks, it will be well to arrange for a better -kitchen that will not be affected by the winds, the _bête noire_ of -camp-cooking. Dig a trench (cutting the sides square) as long as the -distance between your uprights, and about eighteen inches wide and a -foot deep. Make your fire in this hole, on the ground, and you will find -that the wind will not worry you one-half as much as before (Fig. 33). -If you wish to take the trouble, and the material is handy, the plan in -Fig. 35 is a most excellent one to follow. Wall up the sides of the -trench with brick, add a little chimney at one end, and get several iron -“S” hooks from which to suspend your kettles. This will save the lifting -of the crane every time you wish to handle the kettles suspended over -the fire. By this method you will economize on fuel and save heat. - -The plan used in the army for camp-cooking and described below is the -best for all-around work. To make this kitchen takes more time and a -little more labor, but in the end the laborers will be well paid for -their work. It is particularly adapted for clayey soil. Dig a hole about -three feet square and two feet in depth, generally in the slope of a -hill. On one side run a shaft laterally, about one foot square and six -feet in length, and one foot from the surface of the ground. At the -extreme end sink a shaft vertically and form a chimney, and at -equidistances pierce holes of sufficient diameter to prevent the kettles -from slipping through. By this mode the kettles can be placed over the -fire to boil, or on the side to simmer, with less difficulty than by any -other means. Fig. 36 A and B. - -I want to tell the young camper how to bake his own bread in camp, so if -he camps far from a store or house where he can buy his bread he will -not have to eat crackers, or those indigestion-producers, flapjacks, -that the youthful camper knows how to make, or thinks he does. I have -eaten many a one in my young days before putting on the “army blue,” but -their weight in gold would not induce me to eat some that I swallowed as -a boy and thought “fine.” We will assume that before going into camp -your dear mother has taught you how to mix a batch of dough or a pan of -biscuit. We will now make an oven in which to bake the bread or biscuit. -A bank from four to six feet is the best for the purpose. Dig down the -bank to a vertical face, and at the base excavate a hole, say three to -four feet horizontally, care being taken to keep the entrance as small -as possible. Hollow out the sides of the excavation and arch the roof, -till the floor of the oven is about two feet wide and the arch about -sixteen inches at the centre. Fig. 37 A and B. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 36 - Fig. 37 -] - -Now carefully “tap” the back end for the chimney, and insert a piece of -stove-pipe if handy. A hole from four to six inches will give a good -draught. Wet the inside of the oven, and smooth over the walls so that -the mud presents a hard finish, and leave to dry for a day. When you are -ready to bake, build a good fire in the oven, and when it is well heated -remove the fire, scrape out all ashes, and place the pans of dough -inside. Close up the entrance with a board, and cover with mud so as to -keep in all the heat. With proper care this oven will last several -weeks. - -A bank may not be handy in which to build an oven of the kind described -above; if such proves the case, it is not a difficult matter to -construct a good oven on the level ground by following the method below. -If a flour-barrel is handy, use it; if not, make use of willow twigs -stuck in the ground and bent over so as to form a mould. Over the barrel -or willow mould plaster a stiff mortar made of mud, commencing at the -base. Lay it on about six inches thick. Allow it to dry for a day or -two, and when nearly dry cut out a door at one end and the flue at the -other. A small mud chimney will increase the draught if a piece of -stove-pipe is not at hand. If a barrel has been used as the mould it may -be burned out without danger to the oven. Carefully remove all dirt, and -keep up a fire for half a day before attempting to bake. Fig. 34. (See -page 321.) - - - Camp-cooking - -Even the finest of camps is a dreary place unless the commissary -department is well organized. “Uncle Harry,” who is an old and -experienced camper-out, gives some useful suggestions to his nephews, -and other boys will doubtless appreciate his lectures on things -culinary. - -“Let us suppose,” begins Uncle Harry, “that you have gotten the camp -into ship-shape order, and after your hard day’s work are ravenously -hungry and very impatient for supper, or rather dinner, for the last -meal of the day in camp is always the most important one. We will -appoint Aleck as cook, and while he is busy over the fire neither of the -others shall interfere with him or his duties, for no axiom is more true -than that ‘too many cooks spoil the broth.’ - -“Ben and Bob must see that the cook is well supplied with water and has -plenty of small-split firewood close at hand. Then Bob will set the -table, while Ben goes a-fishing and catches half a dozen trout or other -small fry from the lake. In the mean time Aleck has pared and washed a -dozen potatoes. These are placed in a kettle nearly full of water, and -hung over the fire half an hour before supper-time. He will keep them -boiling furiously until he can run a sliver of wood easily through the -largest one. Then the water must be drained from them, and, still in the -kettle, they must be set aside, but near enough to the fire to keep hot -until wanted. - -“Ben’s fish all weigh less than a pound, and so are too small to do -anything with but fry. After they are cleaned, Aleck rolls them in -corn-meal and lays them carefully in the frying-pan, which is already on -the stove, and in which a small quantity of cotton-seed oil is sizzling -merrily. If you should have no oil, pork fat will do nearly as well, -only have it boiling hot before placing the fish in it. - -“Aleck has heard of half a dozen methods of making coffee, and hesitates -before deciding which to try. He has been told to put his coffee in cold -water and let it come to a boil, and that the coffee must not see the -water until it is boiling; he has heard that coffee must never be -boiled, and that the only way to extract its strength is to boil it; and -so in thinking it all over he is much perplexed. Finally he remembers a -method which his old uncle who is in the army has mentioned to him, and -decides to try it.” - -“Oh, Uncle Harry, you are not a bit old,” interrupts Aleck. - -“In preparing coffee by his old uncle’s method,” continues Captain -Archer, only noticing the interruption with a smile, “Aleck fills the -coffee-pot with water, and sets it on the broiler wires, which he has -laid across from one log to the other of the stove. While it is coming -to a boil he measures out his coffee at the rate of a heaping -table-spoonful for each cup to be made, puts it into his tin cup, pours -in all the hot water it will hold, and sets it in a warm place on the -stove. As soon as the water in the coffee-pot boils, he pours off some, -so as to leave the pot about three-quarters full, and empties in his -cupful of soaked coffee. Setting the pot back, he allows its contents to -again come to a boil, and then lifts it from the fire. He pours out a -tin cupful of the coffee, and pours it slowly back into the pot, -throwing away the residue of grounds that remain in the cup. For about a -minute, or while the rest of the dinner is being served, the coffee-pot -stands in a warm place near the fire, and then its contents are ready -for drinking. - -“If either of you had wanted tea, Aleck would have put in the pot a -teaspoonful of tea leaves for each cup to be made, poured boiling water -over it, let it stand in a warm place two or three minutes, and it would -have been ready for you. - -“Here you have a plain, easily cooked dinner of fried fish, boiled -potatoes, and coffee, to which you can add from your supplies bread and -butter, or crackers, pickles, condensed milk, salt, pepper, and sugar. I -think you will find it enough for a first experiment. - -“For breakfast next morning you will have coffee, fried potatoes and -breakfast bacon, and griddle-cakes.” - -“Oh, Uncle Harry, I can’t make griddle-cakes,” exclaimed Aleck. - -“I think you can, if I tell you how, and you try hard. At any rate, you -had better try, for they enter largely into the composition of camp -meals. To make the simplest flour griddle-cakes, put into a pan a quart -of your prepared flour, a teaspoonful of salt, a handful of corn-meal, a -table-spoonful of brown sugar, two eggs, if you have them, and mix with -cold water into a batter. Stir thoroughly until no lumps are left, and -then fry on a hot griddle. In frying use as little grease as possible. -More griddle-cakes are spoiled by the use of too much grease in frying -than in any other way. A bit of pork rind or an oiled rag rubbed over -the griddle is sufficient. Take turns in frying the cakes, so that two -of you can be eating them as fast as they are done. They are only fit to -eat when hot from the griddle. - -“The cold boiled potatoes left from dinner the night before may be cut -up and fried with half a dozen slices of breakfast bacon, and when all -is ready you will have a breakfast to which I think three hungry boys -will do ample justice. - -“When you become tired of fish, catch frogs. They are considered -delicacies on first-class tables, and add a pleasant variety to a -woodman’s fare. Catch them with a light rod, short line, and small hook -baited with a bit of scarlet flannel, or at night by use of a -jack-light. Stupefied by its glare, they will let you pick them up. Kill -your frog by a tap on the head, cut off his thighs and hind-legs, skin -them, roll them in Indian-meal, and fry brown in hot oil or pork fat. - -“You will also probably have an opportunity of adding squirrels to your -bill of fare. When you have got your squirrel, chop off his head, feet, -and tail, cut the skin crosswise of the back, and strip it off in two -parts, fore and aft; also cut the body crosswise into two parts. Throw -them into a kettle, and let the hind-quarters parboil until tender. Then -fry them, until of a rich brown, in oil or pork fat, hissing hot. Use -the fore-quarters for a stew. - -“To make a stew use almost any kind of flesh or fowl. The chief thing to -be remembered in making a stew is to stew it enough. An old camp jingle -runs thus: - - “‘A stew that’s too little stewed - Is understood to be no good.’ - -“Let your meat boil for more than an hour, or until it begins to fall -from the bones. Add potatoes, pared and quartered, an onion sliced, -salt, pepper, and a thickening made of flour and melted butter, to be -stirred in gradually. - -“In making a meat soup provide plenty of meat, and do not be afraid to -let it boil. It is hard to boil it too much, and three hours is not too -long. When nearly done, scrape a potato into the soup for thickening, -and season with salt and pepper. - -“To cook rice, let a cupful soak overnight. In the morning pour off the -water in which it has soaked, place it in a kettle of cold water, and -boil it slowly, without stirring, until the kernels are soft. Remember -to salt it. Rice is good with condensed milk, sugar, butter, or syrup. -It is good to add to your soups and stews, and it is particularly good -when added to the batter from which you make your griddle-cakes. - -“To make mush stir corn-meal into boiling water; season with salt. Eat -hot with syrup. Save what is left over, and fry it next morning. The -same rule applies to hominy. - -“These are the rudiments of camp-cookery. Not an extended bill of fare, -but I think you will find it appetizing and nourishing.” - -And the boys agreed with him. - - - The Care of a Gun - -Aside from the pride and satisfaction which every sportsman should take -in keeping his favorite weapon bright and free from spots, inside and -out, it pays to keep a gun clean. The residue left in the barrel after -firing contains acids, which will soon eat “pits” or spots in the metal, -and when once started, it is almost impossible to prevent them -increasing in size and number. When badly pitted, the recoil is -increased by the roughness in the barrel. A gun can be cleaned by the -following directions: The cleaning-rod should have at least three -tools—a wool swab, a wire scratch-brush, and a wiper to run rags -through. Have plenty of water at hand—warm if you have it, if not cold -will do nicely. Put a swab on the rod, and some water in a tin basin or -wooden pail. By placing one end of the barrel in the water, you can pump -it up and down the barrel with the swab. When it is discolored take -fresh water, squeeze out the swab in it, and repeat the operation, until -the water comes from the barrel as clean as it went in. If the gun has -stood overnight, or longer, since using, it is best to put on the -scratch-brush after the first swabbing, and a few passes with this will -remove any hardened powder or leading. The next step is to fill the -wiper with woollen or cotton rags, and dry the barrel thoroughly. When -one set becomes wet take another, until they come from the barrel -perfectly dry. Then stand the barrel on end on a heated stove, changing -it from end to end, taking care that it does not become overheated. By -the time it is well warmed up, the hot air from the stove will have -dried out every particle of moisture left in the barrel. If no stove is -at hand, the last set of drying rags used must be plied vigorously up -and down the barrel until it becomes quite warm from the friction. -Drying is the most important part of cleaning, and if the least particle -of moisture is left in the barrel it will be a rust spot the next time -the gun is taken from its case. The gun may now be oiled, inside and -out, with sewing-machine oil or gun-grease, which can be had in any gun -store. The woollen rags used for greasing soak up a great deal of oil, -and should be dropped into the gun-cover for future use. - -In regard to the safe handling of guns, almost all rules centre in that -of always carrying the gun in such a way that if it should be -accidentally discharged it would do no harm. If this rule is borne in -mind, and strictly obeyed in the beginning, it becomes a habit and is -followed intuitively. The gun may be carried safely on either shoulder, -or in the hollow of either arm, with a sharp upward slant. When -momentarily expecting a bird to rise, and obliged to have the gun -cocked, it should be carried across the breast with a sharp upward slope -to the left. This is the only way the gun should be carried cocked. A -breech-loader is so easily unloaded that there is no excuse for getting -into a wagon or boat, or going around a house, without unloading. Never -hand a loaded gun to any one who asks to look at it. Whenever you pick -up any kind of a gun to examine it, always open it to see if it is -loaded, and the habit will grow so that you will do this almost without -knowing it. It seems needless to say never pull a gun towards you by the -muzzle through a fence or out of a boat or wagon, yet the violation of -this rule is the cause of more accidents than anything else. Never climb -a fence with your gun cocked. - -In learning the art of shooting on the wing—and this is the only way in -which a shot-gun should be used—the following suggestions may be of some -help, but no amount of printed directions can teach you to shoot. -Practice is the best teacher. Nine out of ten young sportsmen shoot too -quickly. A game bird rises with a startling whir of the wing (and -sometimes when least expected), which gives the idea that he is making -much greater speed than he really is. Beginners are apt to become -excited, and throw up the gun anywhere in that direction, and blaze away -with no definite aim. For this reason it is best to begin with -blackbirds, rice-birds, and rails. - -In almost every shot it is necessary to hold ahead of the bird, to allow -for the time it takes to explode the cartridge and throw the shot to the -bird. Even in this short space of time a cross-flying bird would be -safely out of the shot circle if you aimed right at him. If a bird flies -straight away from you, neither rising nor dropping, you should aim -right at it. If flying straight across, you should hold well ahead of -it. If quartering, still hold ahead, but less. - -Many will ask how far to hold ahead, and this is a difficult question to -answer accurately, as we have no means of knowing just how far ahead we -do hold. One might say six feet and another six inches. What might -appear to be an inch at the muzzle of the gun might really be a foot in -front of a bird forty yards away. It must be learned by experience, and -when accustomed to it the aim will be taken almost instantly, governed -by the direction of flight, the speed of the bird, and the distance from -the shooter. - -It is best to ask permission of the owner to shoot over his land. You -will seldom be refused, and will frequently be given permission to shoot -over land which is posted “No Shooting.” The land-owners know that it is -the lawless hoodlums who do them damage. - -Every true sportsman strictly obeys the game laws, and it is to his -advantage to do so, although in many States the laws are practically a -dead letter. Shooting out of season has nearly killed the game in many -localities, when it would still be abundant if the game laws had been -observed. - - - - - Chapter XIX - - TRAPS AND TRAPPING - - - Snares and Deadfalls - -The ways of trapping are as various as the ingenuity of savage or -civilized man can devise. I like best the traps that one can make. They -seem to give the animal a fairer show; they develop our own constructive -faculties; and the nearer we can get to the savage way the more fun it -always is. Steel traps have a place that wooden traps can never fill; -but give me something that I can make with my own hands, with the -simplest tools, out of whatever materials the spot affords where the -animal lives. - -Of all the animals in this country there is none that affords less -harmful sport than the rabbit—more properly hare—of which there are -several species. Its wonderful powers of increase enable it to hold its -own, as far too many of our best and most valuable animals do not. -Furthermore, rabbits are very easily trapped. - -Every one knows its little trail, as broad as one’s hand, through the -bushes or broom-hedge, or its footprints as it hops over the clear snow. -Here, where the path goes under a fence-rail, it has stopped to gnaw. -The rabbit follows this path in season and out, though in the far North, -where the snows keep piling and piling up, its little road may change -with each successive snowfall. Trappers there put out a large number of -snares, setting them right in the middle of these paths. In Fig. 1, No. -20 soft brass or copper wire is used—a piece say twenty inches long -being bent into an oval or round noose some four inches through, the end -being twisted around a convenient limb or root, or stick thrust into the -snow over the path, and the space on each side bushed in with evergreen -twigs, so that the rabbit will be sure to pass through the noose. Snares -are easily taken up and set somewhere else after each snowfall. The best -way is to rig the noose to a spring-pole (Fig. 2). The spring-pole that -I have seen the Indian trappers make is simply a pole lashed to the side -of a convenient sapling, the heavy end being high in the air, while the -short end is caught under a stake with a crotch or little limb sticking -out, driven into the ground at the side of the path. A “twitch-up” is a -sapling bent down, but this generally needs to be held down in another -way. On each side of the path a stake is firmly driven into the ground. -About seven inches from the ground, and on the sides which face, a deep -notch is cut into each stake, and a stick flattened at each end is -placed across, like the letter H. The sapling is bent down, a strong -cord fastened to the end, and tied around the middle of the cross-piece. -The noose dangles below, clearing the ground by two inches (Fig. 3). If -the pole is strong enough it lifts the game into the air out of reach of -predatory animals. All stakes bearing strain of pulling must be firmly -driven into the ground, or in wet weather they will pull out. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 -] - -Rabbits, as gardeners know, are fond of carrots and other vegetables, as -well as apples. There are many ways of rigging a snare with bait. The -trap is arranged so the rabbit puts its head through a noose, and -springs the trap as it touches the bait. One of the best traps I know of -this kind is called, in northern Vermont, a “French twitch-up” (Fig. 4). -This trap can be made at home, and carried and set wherever needed. It -is made as follows: Take a board about twenty inches long and ten inches -wide. Measure off eight inches from one end, and with a pair of dividers -describe a circle five inches in diameter. Around this circle bore holes -three-eighths of an inch in diameter an inch apart, through the board, -and drive in pegs five inches high. Five inches from the other end bore -a larger hole, and set up a square peg (or a round one with flat side) -seven inches high. Procure a half-inch stick long enough to reach from -the centre of the circle of pegs to the upright and three inches beyond -it. Screw this stick fast to the upright at a point two inches from the -board—loosely, so it will work up and down, sharpening the end inside -the pen, and cutting a notch on the upper side at the other end as shown -in Fig. 4. Cut another notch near the top of the upright post, and fit -into the two notches a half-inch stick with chisel-shaped ends. This -arrangement resembles very closely the figure 4. A strong cord from the -middle of this short stick leads to the spring-pole at a point about a -foot from the end. - -A noose of fine, soft wire or plaited horse-hair is fastened to the end -of the spring-pole, and laid evenly around on the tops of the circle of -pegs, which must be of an equal height. An apple or a carrot is speared -upon the sharp end of the bait-stick. The rabbit smells the bait, puts -its head over the fence and through the noose to take a nibble. When it -touches the bait-stick, up goes the noose, and it is caught. But the -snare on top of the little fence is likely to fall or be rubbed off, so -a deep, sharp notch must be made into the top of every peg into which -the noose fits. This is undoubtedly a Yankee improvement on a very old -device. Formerly there was no pen and the noose was laid on the ground. - -One of the very best traps for rabbits is a kind used in the South (Fig. -5). How often on a frosty morning would one’s heart thump as one came -into view and looked to see if the trigger was up and the door was down! - -It is made of rough boards twenty to twenty-four inches long, one being -an inch shorter, and all at least six inches wide, nailed into a long -box. The rear being closed up with a board, and the top being an inch -shorter, there is room for a door which slides up and down. Two thin -strips are nailed upright to the front of the side-pieces, to keep the -door from falling outward; small cleats inside complete a channel, in -which the door slides easily up and down. Then with an auger or bit two -holes are bored into the top five-eighths to one inch in diameter, one -hole being nine inches from the front, the other nine inches to the rear -of the first. Into the one next the door a stake is set up about ten -inches high, with a crotch at the top. Then a stick eight inches long -and as thick as a lead-pencil is cut; five inches from one end a cut is -made half-way through, and a deep notch taken out the short end. This is -dropped, notch upward, into the other hole. A stiff stick eighteen -inches long is then cut, a string tied to each end, and then balanced in -the crotch. The door is raised five inches, and one string tied to a -nail in the top. The other string is tied to the upper end of the -trigger, the notch of which is caught on the under side of the top -board. The trap thus set is placed at right angles to the path, not -directly in it. Foolish Bunny comes along. A good hole is something a -rabbit is ever on the lookout for. Here is a new one; he will look into -it and see what it is like. It is not necessary to put even a carrot or -an apple inside. He crowds in, butts his head against the trigger at the -end, up it goes, down drops the door behind, and he is fast. The trigger -must be set under the front edge of the hole, otherwise the rabbit will -not be able to push it from him. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 -] - -Instead of a box, a section of a hollow log, called in the South a -“gum,” may be used, two stakes being driven in front to hold the door. -Fig. 6. - -The muskrat is an abundant animal about ponds, ditches, and the banks of -sluggish streams. It is easily trapped. They remind one of little -beavers, and if their fur was not so very common it would be more highly -prized, for it is really soft and fine. If one can find their runway (a -path eight or nine inches wide along which they travel from place to -place) one can always capture them by the same kind of trap that an -Indian sets for beaver and otter, as well as for musquash. He calls it -the “_kilheg’n_.” Fig. 7. - -Drive two stakes two feet or more high and at least an inch thick into -the ground three inches apart at one side of the path. Opposite these -two sticks drive in two more, and lay a stick across between them, -pushing it down nearly level with the path for a bed-piece. Then get a -pole of any length whatever, lay the butt end across the path on top of -the bed, hewing the sides flat, if necessary. See that it rests evenly -on the bed, and keep the other end in place with a stake driven on each -side. This pole is called the “fall.” - -Lash each pair of stakes together at their tops with rope or tough bark -or withe, to prevent spreading, and lay a stiff stick across. Cut a -half-inch straight stick and lay it on top of the bed, lashing one end -loosely to the stake, leaving the other end free to rise and fall. This -is the trigger. Now for the “crooked stick.” It is a stick as long as -from the bed to the cross-piece, and has a sudden bend at the upper end. -Often one can find a small sapling an inch through with just the right -bend at the end. Notch it as shown in Fig. 8. Tie a stout cord or withe -around the fall, raise the same nine or ten inches, lay the crooked -stick over the cross-piece, and tie the withe fast. Then bend the other -end of the crooked stick towards the ground, and catch the top of it -behind the trigger, which is raised just enough (two inches) for the -purpose. When the rat comes along it steps on the trigger, freeing the -crooked stick, whereupon the fall drops and pins the creature there. -Heavy weights should be piled upon the fall alongside the path, and the -sides should be brushed in to keep the animal from going around. No bait -is required for this trap. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - SOME USEFUL TRAPS -] - -Alongside of their pond on a level spot contrive another trap (Fig. 9) -in the following manner: - -Take a flat stick, about two inches wide, lay it on the ground, and -close to one end drive an upright stake on each side. Let them stand -some six inches high. Then, beginning close to the two stakes, lay a -two-foot stick at right angles, its end resting on the first one. -Alongside of this lay another stick a little shorter, continuing thus, -and making each successive stick shorter, until the end of the sticks is -reached, thus forming a three-cornered platform, which is then weighted -with heavy stones. Construct a figure 4 (Fig. 9 A) out of sticks as -thick as one’s finger, making the bait-stick eighteen or twenty inches -long. Set the figure 4 under the platform at the very end of the stick, -the bait-stick passing between the upright stakes. Bait with a carrot, a -parsnip, apple, etc., and a rat should be there in the morning. - -If the trap does not lie flat on the ground place sticks under it. This -same trap, baited with a fowl’s head or a bird or meat, is also useful -as a skunk-trap, being placed in the woods near their burrows. - -The mink is another common animal, and it is found by almost every -brook-side. It is a great traveller, following the stream, feeding upon -fish, and picking up a bird or mouse whenever opportunity affords. For a -trap I take two round poles six to eight feet long, and about three -inches thick at the butt. On a level spot, never more than a few feet -away from the water, I drive a stake firmly into the ground, and lay the -two poles, butts together, one on top of the other, against the stake, -and drive two more stakes on the other side about six inches apart. -Sometimes when the ground is soft two stakes (Fig. 10) should be driven -in front instead of one. A stick a foot long will serve equally well for -the bed-piece. Then a pen or house is built of stakes, or long chips, or -stones, or pieces of board in the form of a V or Π, about nine inches -tall, eight inches deep, and six inches wide. Then two sticks are -prepared—one three inches long and half an inch thick, called the -“standard” (Fig. 12), the other eight inches long, and of the same -thickness, called the bait-stick, one end being sharpened, the other -flattened. The bait, the head of a fowl or fish, is tied to the sharp -point of the bait-stick. The fall is raised, the standard set sideways -on the flat end on the bait-stick, and the fall lowered, until it rests -on top of the standard, the bait-stick being inside the house. As the -sticks are arranged, the mink, entering over the bed and under the fall, -will have to give quite a pull before dislodging the standard on which -the fall rests. So take a peg, cut a notch into it near the top deep -enough to secure the bait-stick, and drive it into the ground inside the -pen and close to one side. Now the standard can be set much nearer the -outer end of the bait-stick, and the moment the bait is tugged at, the -bait-stick flies from under the notched peg, and down comes the fall. -The bed may be hewn to an edge on top, and the parts of the trap should -work without a hitch. A stone, or board, or sheet of bark, or a handful -of evergreen boughs should be laid over the house, not only to keep the -animal out, but also the rain and snow from the triggers which may -freeze up and stick fast. Two pegs driven into the ground at the end of -the fall will hold it in place, and, like every deadfall, it should be -heavily weighted with logs as shown in Figs. 10 and 11. - -There are many different ways of building traps with this simple -bait-stick and standard—a combination in general use in the fur -countries. Some are made large for fishers, and set on logs and high -stumps for sable or marten. In Canada, where the snow is very deep, I -have seen long lines of sable-traps on stumps seven feet from the -ground, the other end of the fall resting on another stump of the same -height. In such cases a tree is cut for the purpose, and by a skilful -way of chopping, the stake in front of the trap is left standing as part -of the stump, and the chips are sharpened and driven into the top of the -stump for the house. - -Again, a hollow is chopped into a tree, a stake driven in front, and the -bait-stick thrust inside. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 11 - Fig. 12 - Fig. 13 - Fig. 14 - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 - DEADFALLS -] - -There are many other deadfalls in use. Among the most deadly is what may -be called the “wigwam.” It is thus constructed: With a hatchet or an axe -break some small sticks, and driving them into the ground in the shape -of a crescent build the bait-pen or house. Bring them together at the -top as in Fig. 13. Next cut a green stick about four inches in diameter -and about eight feet long. Lay in front of the pen, directly up against -it. Peg it firmly there by driving wooden pins against it at the ends. -So much done. Now get another stick of the same length and lay it on top -of the first pole. Fix it in position by driving pins against it as in -Fig. 14. When this is finished take two small, round sticks or twigs, -cut one about five inches in length, and the other near ten inches, or -the depth of the bait-pen. Raise the top log and lay the longer of the -little round twigs on it, with the end on which the bait is to be placed -on the inside. The ends of the little twig must be round. Set it on end, -with the upper end resting on the upper log and the lower end resting on -the first little stick as in Fig. 15. - -When an animal comes to get the bait he has to put his fore-legs into -the pen, and the minute he touches the bait the upper log falls, -catching him in the centre of the back. Skunks can be easily caught this -way without the least smell. Spikes may be driven through the upper log -for large game. Fig. 16 is a variation of the same idea. - -Woodchucks or ground-hogs will be attracted to a trap by baiting with -their favorite food; but they soon go into winter quarters, from which -they do not emerge until spring. There are special traps for other -animals and birds. Good judgment, knowledge of the appearance and the -food and habits of the bird or animal are necessary to success in -trapping, as well as an eye quick to recognize the signs of the game, -particularly their runways. - -[Illustration: Fig. 17] - -Traps in cold countries need not be visited oftener than once a week, -but if they are near home most boys like to go to them every day. -Skinning can best be done at home. The curing of skins is a matter of -great importance if the fur is to be sold, for dealers will only pay for -good fur properly prepared. It must be “prime”—that is, from November to -the middle of April (water fur a fortnight later) the inside of the skin -will be white and the fur thick and glossy; at other times it becomes -dark and thin and the fur poor. Muskrats, mink, sable, foxes, weasel, -opossum, and skunk require to be _cased_—that is, without any cut down -the middle. Wolf, badger, raccoon, bear, beaver must be _open_. The -manner of preparing _cased_ fur is to make a cut around the ankles, then -a slit down the back of the leg to the tail, the skin to be peeled off -the legs and the root of the tail to be put into the end of a split -stick and the core pulled right out. Then the skin is pulled off over -the head. In the case of certain animals, like the mink and muskrat, -there is a scent-bag near the tail which is liable to get cut, with -unpleasant consequences, so the best trappers prefer to remove the hide -by commencing at the lips and peeling it off through the opening of the -mouth, making no other cut in the skin save at the legs, when the skin -is opened by a cut from leg to tail as at the start. The muskrat may be -stretched on a pliant stick three feet long, bent into a bow, and the -skin, fur inward, pulled over it. The legs are slitted and caught over -notches in the side, and one end of the stick is bent squarely across -and fastened either into the split top of the other or into a notch, and -the loose middles of the skin tied up to the cross-piece. Fig. 17 _b_. - -For mink, etc., never use a single board—it may tear the skin—but make a -double stretcher (Fig. 17 _a_). Take a half-inch board of pine or cedar, -two feet long and three inches wide, and taper it to two inches at one -end and shave the outside almost to an edge. The board is then split in -half with a saw; where no saw is at hand the two pieces are whittled out -separately. The stretchers are now put into the skin, and the legs -pulled out as far as they will go and tacked in place, or a slit made in -each and the leg hooked over a notch in the edge of the stretcher. Then -a wedge two feet long, an inch wide, and tapering to a point is inserted -between the stretcher, and driven down until the skin is as tight as a -drum-head. The middles are then tacked fast, and a square-pointed stick -inserted into the tail. If the boards threaten to collapse, two short -sticks with ends lashed together pushed over them will keep them flat. -The tail-piece (Fig. 18) shows a mink-skin properly stretched. A -fox-stretcher will be exactly twice the dimensions of the -mink-stretcher; others in proportion. The raccoon, bear, etc., is -skinned by a cut from chin to tail, cuts being made up the legs at right -angles to the cut, and stretched upon a square frame (Fig. 17 _d_) by -means of a lacing of cord or tough bark. Formerly all open skins were -stretched on the hoop-stretcher (Fig. 17 _c_), but now only the beaver -is treated that way. - -Skins must never be dried in the sun nor by a hot fire. Nor should any -preservatives whatever be applied, not even salt, until ready for -tanning. All fat should be removed, taking care for knife-cuts. - -[Illustration: Fig. 18] - - - - - Chapter XX - - TREE HUTS AND BRUSH-HOUSES - - -The most delightful season in the woods, throughout the northern and -middle parts of the United States, is during the summer months, and in -the South right up to Christmas; while in other parts of the country, -through southern Texas and California, the woods are attractive all -through the year. - -Brush-houses, sylvan retreats, and tree huts of various kinds are made -by boys all over the country, and some very unique and original ones are -often constructed from simple and inexpensive materials. Everything from -the back-yard “lean-to” and the tent of sheets to the tree huts that are -inaccessible when the rope-ladder is drawn up may be made by boys who -are at all handy with tools, and a well-built tree hut is an ideal place -in which to spend one’s vacation days. - -The following ideas and suggestions may be of service, and they have all -been tested in practical experience. - - - A Low Twin-tree Hut - -A very serviceable twin-tree hut is shown in Fig. 1, and it can easily -be constructed, at a small cost, from ordinary boards and timbers. If it -is built high up in the trees it is doubly secure from invasion, for the -ladder can be drawn up when the owners are at home and it will be a -difficult matter for outsiders to enter. - -To properly build this hut select a location between two trees six to -eight feet apart. The trees should have comparatively straight trunks at -least fifteen inches in diameter, and no cavities at the base nor -indications of decay. - -With an axe clear off the brush and small branches for twenty feet up -from the ground at the inside of the trunks, or where the hut is to be -located. From a lumber-yard obtain four or five pieces of spruce or -other timber two inches thick, eight inches wide, and sixteen feet long. -Saw off and nail two of these pieces to the trunks of the trees eight -feet above the ground, first cutting away some of the bark and wood of -the trunk to afford a flat surface for the timbers to lie against on -each side. Six-inch steel-wire nails will be required for these -anchorages, and under the timbers and lying flat against the tree-trunks -bracket-blocks two-by-eight inches and fifteen inches long are securely -spiked to lend additional support to the cross-timbers. - -Cut two timbers six feet long and two others the length of the distance -between tree-trunks. In the six-foot pieces cut notches at the under -side as shown in Fig. 2 C C. Into these the ends of bracket-timbers D D -will fit. Cut the ends of the timbers forming the square frame so that -they will dovetail as shown in Fig. 3. Spike the six-foot timbers to the -tree-trunks so that they will rest on the first two timbers that were -nailed to the trees, and from the two-by-eight-inch wood cut four -brackets D D, and spike them fast under each cross-timber so each tree -will appear as shown in Fig. 2. Place the remaining two timbers in -position so that the ends will fit into those fastened to the trees, and -nail them fast as shown in Fig. 4. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 -] - -In Fig. 5 the first timbers can be seen spiked to the tree-trunks, where -they are supported by the fifteen-inch blocks nailed fast below them. -The cross-timbers are shown at A A, and the last ones, forming the frame -that are let into dove-tailed joints at the ends, are shown at B B. Cut -two more timbers E E, and lay them across the supporting timbers, nailed -to the tree, so they will fit inside the front and back timbers B B, -where they are to be well secured with long nails. The floor frame will -then be complete. - -From two-by-three-inch spruce construct a frame seven feet high at the -front, six feet at the back, and spike the side timbers F F, forming the -top, to the inside of the tree-trunks as shown in Fig. 5. The bottom of -the uprights are to be mounted on the corners of the floor frame as -shown in Fig. 4, where four long nails will hold them securely in place. - -Cut two timbers and arrange them in an upright position at the front -thirty inches apart, where the door will come, then half-way between the -floor and top of the framework run a timber all around except between -the door timbers. This will add a strengthening rib to which the -sheathing boards can be nailed, and will also make one more anchorage to -the tree-trunks. The side-rails should be spiked to the tree-trunks in a -corresponding manner to that of the top or roof-strips. From a -lumber-yard obtain some four, six, or ten inch matched boards, planed on -both sides, and use them for the floor and sheathing. - -The roof may be made from the same kind of boards, and over them a -thickness or two of tarred paper is to be laid and fastened down at the -edges and seams with small metal washers and nails that can be had where -the paper is purchased. This will make the roof water-tight, for a -season at least; and if it is given one or two coats of paint it will -preserve the paper so that it may last for several years. - -Two or three windows twenty-four inches square may be placed in the back -and sides of the hut above the middle rib; and a door of boards held -together with battens, as shown in the illustration, is to be made and -hung with long, stout strap-hinges. A knob lock or a hasp and padlock -will keep the door closed when the hut is unoccupied. When in use a -wooden button will hold the door shut from the inside. - -A ladder of hickory poles and cross-sticks should be made twenty inches -wide and provided with loops at the top that will fit over large nails -driven in the door-sill, so as to keep it from slipping when it bends -under the weight of a boy. - -Where the rungs join the side-rails of the ladder the union is made by -lashing the cross-sticks fast with tarred rigging or stout cotton line. -If a flexible ladder is preferred ropes may be used in place of the -side-rails to which the rungs are lashed fast. When the owners are at -home the ladder can be drawn up and hung on nails driven in the front -edge of the roof. If a rope-ladder is used it can be drawn in and rolled -up. - -Inside of the hut, at either end, a seat eighteen inches wide should be -built in about sixteen inches up from the floor. These seats can be used -as bunks if desired. Some narrow shelving should be arranged over the -windows and fastened there with brackets, on which small things may be -kept. - -A small table may be made from some ends of the sheathing boards and -two-by-three-inch spruce sticks; and boxes may be used for seats, or -small benches can easily be knocked together as shown in Fig. 6 A. Under -the table a ledge twelve inches wide is to be attached to the lower -cross-rails that connect the legs as shown at Fig. 6 B. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 7 - A HIGH TWIN-TREE HUT -] - -A wall-nest may be made from a shoe-case in which four or five shelves -are arranged as shown in Fig. 6 C. A door made from the box-cover is -attached with hinges, and a catch or hasp will keep it closed. - - - A High Twin-tree Hut - -Twelve or fifteen feet above the ground, and built in between the trunks -of two stout trees, a high tree hut is shown in Fig. 7. Larger and more -substantial trees must be selected to build this hut in than the ones -for the low hut, and as a rope-ladder will probably be used a -landing-deck or piazza should be built at the front of the hut. - -While this hut is built between two trees it is also built against them, -as the trunk of each tree can be partially enclosed in the hut. The -under cross-timbers that support the floor frame are to be attached to -the trees the same as described for the low tree hut, and on these the -other timbers are laid and fastened as shown in Fig. 8. The main timbers -extend beyond the outside of the trunks, and the supporting and floor -timbers enclose each trunk. At the front the frame is carried forward -two feet more than at the back, allowing this much for the width of the -deck. The uprights are arranged somewhat differently also, as they are -bound at the top to scantlings that butt into the trunks. Fig. 8 A A. - -Instead of a flat roof like the low hut, this one is to have a pitched -roof, the supporting timbers of which are attached to the ridge-poles -B B, which are fastened to the tree-trunks in the same manner as the -under cross-timbers. This construction is clearly shown in Fig. 8, where -the location of each upright and cross-piece is indicated. - -A rail is run along the front and one end of the deck, and is fastened -at the top of four uprights of two-by-three-inch spruce, the lower ends -of which are securely nailed to the front stringers as the illustration -shows. - -In place of the supporting brackets D D that are let into the timber C -at Fig. 2, longer brackets or props are caught under the floor timbers -and braced at the lower end against the trunks, where an additional -anchorage or support is made by a stout block which is securely spiked -to the trunk underneath each bracket end as shown in Fig. 8 C C. The -frame is then enclosed as described for the low hut, and windows and a -door are mounted as shown. - -A long, stiff ladder may be used to climb up, but a more interesting -ladder can be made of rope and hickory rungs. By means of a thin rope -attached to the bottom rung the ladder can be hauled up to the deck so -that it is out of the reach of other boys; and being fastened at the -top, no one can remove it or pull it away as they could a stiff ladder. - -A rope-ladder is made of stout clothes-line and hickory rungs lashed -together securely with strong line as shown in Fig. 9. The rungs are of -straight hickory with or without the bark on, one inch and a quarter -thick and twenty-four inches long. Near the end of each rung a notch is -cut on both sides for the rope to lie in, as shown at the upper end of -Fig. 9, and each union is to be very securely bound with the line so as -to prevent slipping. - -The ladder is hung on stout wooden pegs driven into the deck through -holes one inch and a half in diameter. An extra rope is to be carried -from the top rung up over the pegs and down again, where a wrap is taken -over one or two rungs; then it is lashed fast to the other ropes with -the stout line as shown in Fig. 10. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 12 -] - -Bunks and furniture can be made for the interior, and any other -convenient accessories to the comfort and pleasure of the boy owners may -be added as need arises. - - - A Single-tree Hut - -In the spreading branches of a large oak-tree a very snug roost can be -made high above the ground as shown in Fig. 11 (frontispiece). - -This single-tree hut is twenty-five feet above the ground, and below it -is a landing from which the rope-ladder is dropped. From this landing to -the piazza or deck of the hut a stiff ladder is made fast both at top -and bottom, and an opening in the floor of the deck will allow room to -climb up on the deck. - -As very few trees are alike it would be difficult to give a plan for the -floor timbers among the out-spreading branches; but from the plans shown -for the twin-tree hut some idea of the construction can be had for -single-tree huts. - -The main tree-trunk will, of course, have to project up through the hut, -and the location in the tree should be selected so that out-spreading -branches will form a support to the lower edges of the floor frame as -may be seen in Fig. 12, the plan of a low tree hut. - -A peaked, a mansard, or a flat roof can be placed on the hut, depending -on the main trunk to give it support; and if the space in the tree will -permit, a deck across the front and both sides will be found useful. The -floor timbers should be well braced to the main trunk of the tree with -long and short bracket-pieces or props. These will help greatly in -making the hut steady in the tree, and where the lower ends are attached -to the trunk large spikes should be well driven in. Cleats or blocks can -be nailed fast under the ends also, as they will help to support and -strengthen the anchorage. - -Water and food can be kept cool by suspending them in a shady place. -Water in a porous jug or earthen pitcher will keep very cold if hung in -the tree branches where the air can freely circulate around it. Keep -fire away from the tree huts, and do not light any matches nor burn -candles, for if once a fire is started nothing will save your hut. It is -too high to reach with a bucket, and, located as it is, a perfect -draught will fan a small flame into a raging fire in no time. - - - A Low Single-tree Hut - -It is not always best to build a hut in high trees, nor is it possible -to do so in every case, because there may not be any high, large trees -at hand strong enough to support a hut. For younger boys a low tree hut -is preferable, so that if a possible misstep should result in a fall it -would be less harmful than from a high tree. An apple or maple tree -often affords a good support for a low tree hut, and if the trunk is -substantially heavy a house similar to the one shown in Fig. 12 (page -358) can easily be constructed. The tree should be large enough to bear -the weight of the house without straining it, particularly in a storm or -high wind. - -The general construction of the frame is shown in Fig. 12. The frame -should be of two-by-three-inch spruce and the flooring beams can be of -two-by-four-inch spruce or other timber. One or two windows and a door -may be arranged in the hut, and tar-paper tacked on the roof will make -it water-proof. - -Access to the hut can be had by means of a ladder made from -two-by-three-inch spruce rails with hickory rungs, or two-by-one-inch -hard-wood sticks securely nailed to the rails. - - - A Brush-house - -In nearly every part of the country where there is low ground one may -generally find a high growth of plant life having a long stalk, with the -greatest number of leaves at or near the top. Artichokes, cat-tail -reeds, wild sunflower, and the stronger species of flag have stalks and -reeds sufficiently strong from which to make the sides and roof of a hut -or small house such as Fig. 13 depicts. - -This growth is often ten feet high, and will have a straight and uniform -reed at least seven or eight feet up from the ground before the thick -top foliage reduces it in size. This last should be cut away and the -smaller under branches and leaves trimmed off, leaving a comparatively -straight shaft from six to eight feet long. This will be limber enough -to be woven basket-fashion, and quite stiff enough to hold the thatching -of meadow-grass or cat-tail reeds. - -To build a brush-house like the one shown in the illustration, four -sticks are to be set in the ground about six feet apart, forming a -square. These should be eight feet long and sunk two feet into the -ground, the upper ends being bound together with rails two inches wide -and an inch thick. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 13 - Fig. 14 - A BRUSH-HOUSE -] - -A pitch can be given to the roof by cutting off the rear posts six -inches and leaving six inches more of the front posts out of the ground, -thereby allowing a pitch of one foot to the six-toot length of roof. -This slant is not necessary, however, and the roof may be flat if it is -easier to make. - -From the reeds a basket framework with eight-inch meshes is to be woven, -as the boys are doing in Fig. 14. Three of these frames are to be made -for the sides and rear of the hut, and at the front, above the doorway, -a smaller one is to be made to cover the space between the front posts. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 15 - Fig. 16 - Fig. 17 -] - -The ends of the cross-reeds are to be bent around the end upright reeds -as shown in Fig. 15, where they can be bound with string or tied with -grass. The window openings in the side frames are made by cutting out a -section of one or two uprights and turning the cross-reeds back and -tying them. At the doorway two upright sticks are driven into the ground -and a rail nailed across their upper ends. - -To this wooden frame the front reeds may be attached, and the skeleton -hut or house is then ready to be thatched with long, dry grass or dried -cat-tail reeds. The thatching is done by interweaving long grasses or -reeds between the cross-reeds in a vertical position as shown in Fig. -16. The thatching material should be from eighteen to twenty-four inches -long so that it can be interwoven between three cross-reeds as shown in -Fig. 17, where a few strands of grasses are placed in position to give -an idea of how to weave the grass. - -[Illustration: Fig. 18] - -Timothy or straw can be used to good advantage for thatching material, -and if it is employed it should be woven with the heads up and not too -close together, as the air should get through the thatching to keep the -occupants of the hut cool. Of course a house may be made larger or -smaller than the one described, but the principle of good construction -is the same. Never depend on the four sides to hold together without the -corner-posts, as the first good wind that happened along would blow it -flat, and perhaps beyond the possibility of repair. - -The edges of each side are lashed fast to the corner-posts with grass or -string, and when the roof is made it should be lashed fast to the top of -the sides and front with long reeds or grass. - -The roof is woven the same as the sides but is thatched closer; and -about four inches of the roof should extend over the sides, front, and -rear. - - - A Brush “Lean-to” - -The general lines of a miniature barn are shown in the illustration of a -brush “lean-to” (Fig. 18). This is constructed in nearly the same manner -as the brush-house, and thatched with grass or reeds as shown in Figs. -16 and 17. - -[Illustration: Fig. 19] - -The corner-posts are three feet high, the ridge-pole seven feet and six -inches above the ground, and the hut may be from five to eight feet -square or made oblong, as a matter of choice. - -A frame of scantling should be made for this lean-to the same as if a -wooden structure were to be built, and it must be nailed together well -to stand the strain of the wind blowing hard against it. In general -construction the frame should appear like Fig. 19; and to the sticks the -edges of the thatched framework of reeds is to be lashed fast with -grass, either before or after the thatching is done. - -A brush-house or any hut built on or near the ground is not so cool to -stay in as one in the trees, but it is, of course, much easier to -construct, as the boy builders do not have to move about so carefully -when at work, and their materials can be picked up quickly. - -Brush huts and houses can be built on the plains where trees are scarce, -but in a country rich in woods and forests the boys prefer the tree -huts, not only for their cool location, but on account of the romance -involved in the climbing up to an inaccessible eyrie. - - - - - Chapter XXI - - WALKING-STICKS - - - How to Grow Them for Pleasure and Profit - -Here are some suggestions for an entirely new and fascinating -out-of-doors occupation. - -It has become a habit with me when walking in the woods to keep a sharp -lookout for stocks for walking-sticks, so that in the course of many -years I have got together quite a unique collection. To these a number -have been added through exchanges with friends. - -This hobby has borne other fruit than the mere gathering together of -curious sticks. For have I not learned the scientific and common names -of most of our trees and shrubs, their habits, and their values, their -uses in the arts and sciences, their medicinal qualities! So you see, my -young reader, what unthinking people would call a useless and eccentric -occupation (this gathering of old sticks) has in reality proved to be an -innocent and instructive pastime, and I propose to continue to ride this -walking-stick hobby just as diligently as I used to ride grandpa’s -walking-cane to “Banbury Cross” when a child. - -My first interesting cane capture consisted of a very curiously shaped -natural stick as shown in Fig. 1. It was of a young hickory sapling at -whose roots grew a bitter-sweet vine, which, being of an ambitious turn -of mind, had taken many turns around the sapling in its eagerness to -climb up in the world. The sapling in the mean time extended its bark -well over the leader of the tough and clinging bitter-sweet till but -little of it was to be seen. At last the sapling, feeling unusually -vigorous, burst asunder the clinging bitter-sweet vine, the result being -a very unique walking-stick, and a good illustration of the “survival of -the fittest.” - -The dead bitter-sweet vine was withdrawn from the hickory, and from its -root a handle was carved and bent. On many occasions I have twisted -vines of bitter-sweet and the fox-grape around saplings of oak, hickory, -and chestnut, and have obtained very satisfactory results. - -Where a vine is situated some distance from the sapling selected for a -cane, the vine can be “piped” (laid under the ground) up to the sapling, -and then twisted around it and securely fastened at the top with wire, -from three to four feet above its root. If the sapling is so situated -that it obtains a bountiful supply of food and sunlight, a unique cane -of natural growth will be the result. - -Having taken a hint from nature in the case of the bitter-sweet vine and -the hickory sapling, I extended my experiments in many directions. -Taking three cuttings (slips) of basket-willow, I planted them close -together as shown in Fig. 2. After they had taken root and begun to push -out branches, I reduced the number of branches to one for each cutting, -always retaining the most vigorous branch. - -As the three willow-trees increased in height the side branches were -constantly cut off. This treatment forced the growth of the willows -upward, so that when they had attained a height of five feet I bound -them together with a living cat-brier vine, which was planted at their -base, and in course of time obtained a light walking-stick of novel -pattern as shown in Fig. 3. Another very interesting experiment was -grafting three willow stocks together so that they formed a union, and -became as it were one tree. This was done by carefully cutting away two -slices from three young willows so as to form an obtuse angle as shown -in Fig. 4. - -The angles so formed were carefully and accurately fitted together as -shown in the section Fig. 5. To hold the willows closely together, and -to exclude all air, I wrapped them tightly with strips of unbleached -cotton-sheeting. As soon as they showed signs of life at their tops by -sending out young branches, I felt certain that a union of their barks -would form at the points indicated by the arrows in Fig. 5. But it was -not till several trials had been made that I was successful in this -novel experiment of combining three willow saplings. - -It very often occurs that after a tree has been cut down a number of -canes or suckers will start up from the stump. These suckers make -excellent walking-sticks when properly cured and peeled. For a lady’s -riding-whip I know of nothing better than three willow withes plaited -together. This plaiting must be done when the willow withes are young, -and when attached to the parent tree, on which they are allowed to -remain for a year after having been plaited together. By this time they -will have grown firmly together in consequence of the bark conforming to -the bent strands of the plait. - -[Illustration: - - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 - Fig. 4 - Fig. 5 - Fig. 6 - Fig. 7 - Fig. 8 - Fig. 9 - Fig. 10 - Fig. 11 -] - -The following kinds of native woods are used for walking-sticks: - -HOLLY.—Sticks of this wood are found growing out from the sides of older -growths, and shooting up in nearly a straight line. Occasionally they -may be cut with a crutch-piece across the growing end, or with a crook -or knob. These are the most valuable. They may be found on a well-grown -sapling in the deep woods. This should be pulled or dug up for the sake -of its roots. Saplings and hedge-sticks may often be found from three to -four feet long, and from three-eighths to a quarter of an inch in -diameter. These are not suitable for walking-sticks, but they make -excellent whip-handles. The holly makes tough, supple, and moderately -heavy walking-sticks, and its close-grained wood admits of much skill in -carving the knob formed by the root and its rootlets. - -ASH.—Respectable sticks of this wood may sometimes be cut out of a hedge -or pulled from the side of an old stump. Ash sticks must also be roughly -trimmed and well seasoned before they are barked and polished. The root -knobs admit of excellent grotesque carving. - -OAK.—This of all sticks is the most reliable, and stout oaken cudgels -are esteemed by most persons as affording the best props for failing -legs, as well as the best weapons of self-defence against quarrelsome -dogs, ruffians, and tramps. Straight sticks of sapling oak are not -always easily obtained, but copse-wood sticks pulled from the trunks of -trees form excellent substitutes. These should be selected for -walking-sticks that taper from one inch below the knob or crutch to one -inch at the ferrule end. Oak sticks split in drying when the bark has -been stripped off or the knobs and branches cut too close, or when the -sticks are dried too rapidly in a very dry place. They are then rendered -useless for walking-sticks and cudgels. - -ELM.—From the roots of elm-trees saplings often shoot up to a height of -some ten feet; these furnish good walking-sticks of fancy styles, the -rough bark serving the purpose of ornamentation when the sticks are -dried, stained, varnished, and polished. - -Among fruit trees the cherry, apple, and pear furnish some very nice, -fancy walking-sticks, being supple and of moderate strength. - -When sticks are half dried—that is, when the bark is shrunken, has lost -its sappy greenness, and refuses to peel freely—they may be trimmed, -straightened, or bent, as required. The wood and also the form of the -knobs and roots will admit of much taste being displayed in grotesque -and fancy carving. - -I know of a young man in Florida, not yet twenty-one years of age, who -is paying his way through college by collecting and curing sticks of the -wild orange, on the handles of which he carves during his leisure time -and vacations full-length figures of alligators as shown in Fig. 6. I -have examined several of these sticks, and the entire work seems to be -done with small chisels and a parting or V-tool. These sticks are in -constant demand with visitors and tourists in Florida, and have become -known as “orange-wood ’gator canes.” This fact may be suggestive to some -of our ingenious farmer boys who are struggling to obtain a college -course. - -Walking-sticks can be gathered at all seasons. The sticks should be laid -aside in a moderately dry and cool place, and should not be worked or -the bark taken off till they are half dry. They are then most supple, -and may be bent or straightened without injury. When laying by sticks to -dry, the knots and spurs should not be trimmed close; it is best to trim -them only roughly, leaving the spurs of branches and roots on the stick -fully an inch long. - -To straighten or bend the sticks, they should be steamed until they are -supple, or buried in hot, wet sand until they become soft; they must -then, while still hot, be given the form they are intended to keep, and -kept in this form until they are cold. Straight sticks are tied firmly -together in small bundles, and wound with a coil of rope from end to -end; they are then suspended to a beam by their knob ends, and a heavy -weight is attached to the ferrule ends. Crooks may be turned by soaking -the end in boiling water for half an hour, then bending it to the -desired form, and retaining it in its position by means of a tourniquet -(as shown in Fig. 7) until the stick is cold. - -The bark may then be taken off with a sharp knife, but care must be -taken not to split or chip the wood. Knots may be trimmed at the same -time, and the root knobs turned into grotesque shapes. There are no -rules that can be given to guide one when carving the roots into -handles, since their forms are governed by the outlines of the roots, -these often being very suggestive of themselves. The group of heads -shown in Figs. 8, 9, 10, and 11 will illustrate what I mean. Figs. 8 and -9 show the rough stick, Figs. 10 and 11 the finished heads. - -One or two points should receive considerable attention when designing -the handles. If the stick is to be a fancy one to be carried and swung -in the hand, the roots can be carved into grotesque or fancy forms. But -if for use, the handle should be round and smooth, so as to fit -comfortably in the hand. The head of a dog, or a swan or goose, forms an -appropriate design for a stick that is to be held on the arm when -lighting a match, or when wishing to have both hands free. The crutch -and hook are also comfortable forms. - -Wooden handles are given touches of rich brown by applying a red-hot -iron to the parts to be colored. - -All sticks with the rough bark left on should be neatly trimmed naked -around the neck of the handle, and the whole lightly gone over with fine -sand or emery paper. The cane should then receive several dressings of -boiled linseed-oil and be left to dry. When dry, a coat of shellac -varnish is applied. Oak canes look best when carefully barked in hot -water, the loose bark being removed by rubbing with coarse canvas, and -the cane then dried, dressed with boiled linseed-oil, again dried, then -polished, and varnished with shellac or furniture varnish, and again -polished. - -Dogwood and Osage orange sticks can be stained black by brushing them -over with a hot and strong decoction of logwood and nut gall. When this -is thoroughly dried, brush them over with vinegar in which a few rusty -nails have been steeped for two or three days. Some persons use ink for -a black stain, others introduce “drop black” in the varnish; a brown or -mahogany stain may be obtained by adding some “dragon’s-blood” to the -varnish. The lower ends of the sticks should be guarded from excessive -wear by a neat brass ferrule; these are cheaper to purchase at a -hardware store than to make, though I have often used brass thimbles and -tailors’ steel thimbles as a substitute. These can be fastened by means -of hot shellac, or with a brass pin driven into a hole in the thimble -and passing through the wood of the stick. - -For fastening carved or rustic heads or handles on sticks hot glue or -thick shellac varnish is used. A good-sized hole is first bored into the -handle and a hole of similar size in the stick; a dowel is driven into -the hole in the stick (using plenty of glue), after which the handle is -driven on to the dowel-pin. Handles may be made of horn, which can be -softened for bending by boiling in oil (not kerosene) or hot fat. -Hard-woods that will take a polish, and vegetable ivory, which is very -easy and pleasant to carve, are good materials to use for handles. For -small sticks, bone will be found an easy material to shape into handles. - -All the manufacturers of walking-sticks and umbrella and parasol handles -state that the demand for native woods suitable for canes and sticks is -constant all the year round, and that the sticks may be gathered at all -seasons of the year and sent to market, both straight and crooked sticks -being salable, also roots for handles. - - * * * * * - -With this we reach the end of our out-door handy book, which we trust -may become the daily and invaluable companion of all healthy, active -American boys. The in-door handy book, the book of electricity, and the -book of mechanics for boys, which are to follow, will form, we believe, -the distinctive American boy’s library of practical handy books. - - - - - INDEX - - - Aërial toys, 81-98; - elastic flying-machine, 81-86; - self-acting aerial car, 86-91; - aerial boat-sailing, 91-95; - a “high-flyer,” 95-98. - - Air-ship kite, an, 126, 127, 128. - - Anglers, aids for young, 160-165. - - Aquarium, an, construction of, 14-18; - stocking, 19, 22, 23, 169, 171,172; - changing the water in, _ibid._; - rockeries for, 20; - how to manage, _ibid._; - plants for, 21; - aërating, 22. - - Arrow weather-vane, the, 64, 65. - - Artificial bait for fish, 168, 169. - - - Badger, curing the skin of, 347. - - Bait, box for, 150; - bag for, _ibid._; - worms as, 151, 161, 166; - minnows as, 151, 161, 166, 167, 168; - seine for catching live, 161, 162, 163; - boat for, 162, 163; - for large fish, 166; - for chub, _ibid._; - for bass, 166, 167; - for perch, _ibid._; - for trout, _ibid._; - where to find, 166-169; - dobsons as, 167; - pails for, 168; - artificial, 168, 169; - darning-needles as, 169; - for eel-pots, 175. - - Bait-rods, 151-153. - - Basket-ball vane, a, 67, 68, 69. - - Bat-wing kite, the, 128. - - Bear, curing the skin of, 347, 349. - - Beaver, curing the skin of, 347. - - “Becket hitch,” the, 160. - - Bends: the common, 288, 289; - the Carrick, _ibid._; - the fisherman’s, _ibid._; - the sheet, 289; - diagrams showing, _ibid._ - _See also_ Hitches and Knots. - - Bird shelters, 32-34; - martin-boxes, 30. - - Blackwall hitch, the, 290, 291. - - Boats: home-made, 211-238; - a punt, 212-214; - a scow, 214, 215; - a sharpy, 215-218; - a dory, 219-221; - a sailing sharpy, 221-225; - a centre-board sharpy, 225-228; - a proa, 228-230; a lark, 230-235; - a power-boat, 235-238; - a rowing catamaran, 239-241; - a sailing catamaran, 241-247; - a side-wheel catamaran, 247, 248; - a house-punt, 261-267; - a house-raft, 267-277. - _See also_ Ice-boats. - - Bob-sled, a, 107, 108, 109. - - Boughs, a cot of, 310, 313. - - Bowline knot, the, 283, 285. - - Box kites, 132, 133. - - Brush-house, a, 361-364. - - Brush lean-to, a, 364-366. - - - Cages, for squirrels, 45-47; - for chipmunks, 45, 46; - for white rats, _ibid._ - - Camp-cooking, 323, 325-330. - - Camp-fires, how to make, 320, 321, 322, 323. - - Camping equipment, 316, 317, 318. - - Camps and camping, 295-333; - a tent of medium size, 295-300; - a large camping-tent, 300-303; - flies and canopies, 303, 304; - a house-tent, 304-307; - the new tent, 307-310; - canvas cots and hammocks, 310-313; - tables and benches, 301, 313-315; - camping equipment, 316, 317, 318; - lockers and mess-kits, 316-319; - a stone stove, 319, 320; - camp-fires, 320, 321, 322; - camp-cooking, 323, 325-330; - care of a gun, 330-333. - - Canopy, a toadstool tree, 54, 55. - - Canvas cot, a, 310, 311; - a folding, 311, 312. - - Carriage, a hose, 195-198. - - Carrick bend, the, 288, 289. - - Carry-all, a, for campers, 318, 319. - - Cased fur, manner of preparing, 347, 348. - - Casting, fly, 153-156. - - Catamaran, a rowing, 239-241; - a sailing, 241-247; - a side-wheel, 247, 248. - - Catspaw hitch, the, 291, 292. - - Chairs for camp life, 314, 315. - - Chest-reel, a, 139, 140. - - Chicken-coops, 41-43. - - Chinese-junk kite, the, 122, 123, 124. - - Clove hitch, the, 289, 290. - - Coasters, skees, and snow-shoes, 101-114; - toboggans, 102-104; - a rocker-coaster, 103, 105; - a single-runner coaster, 106, 107, 108; - a bob-sled, 107-109; - skees, 110, 111; - snow-shoes, 111-114. - - Common bend, the, 288, 289. - - Coops for chickens, 41-43. - - Cot, a canvas, 310, 311; - a folding, 311, 312; - of boughs, 310, 313. - - Cotes, pigeon, 34-36. - - Crowned wall knot, the, 284, 285, 286. - - Crown-top kite, the, 128. - - Curing of skins, the, 346-349. - - - Deadfalls, for muskrat, 340, 341, 342; - for skunk, 342, 346; - the “wigwam,” 344, 345, 346. - - Diagrams, showing splices, 281; - showing knots, 285; - showing bends, 289; - showing hitches, 289, 291. - - Diamond knot, the, 285, 286. - - Dog-kennels, 36-39. - - Dory, a, how to make, 219-221. - - Double-plane kite, the, 136, 137, 138. - - Double wall and double crown knot, the, 285, 286. - - - Eel-pot, a, how to make, 172, 173, 174; - baiting, 175. - - Elastic flying-machine, 81-86. - - Engine, a fire, 191-195. - - Equipment for camping, 316, 317, 318. - - - Fires, camp, how to make, 320, 321, 322, 323. - - Fire-engine, a, 191-195. - - Fisherman’s bend, the, 288, 289. - - Fish, for aquariums, 19, 20, 22, 23, 169; - cleaning, 145; - bait for, 151, 161, 166-169; - trap for small, 169-171. - - Fishing, pleasure in, 144; - secret of success in, 146. - - Fishing-tackle, 144-166; - testing, 147; - care of, _ibid._; - rods, 148, 149, 158; - lines, 149; - hooks, 149, 150, 158; - reels, 150; - floats, 150, 152, 164; - sinkers, _ibid._; - landing-nets, 151; - flies, _ibid._; - repairing, 156-160. - - Float, a, 277-279. - - Floats, fish, 150, 152, 164. - - Flies for camping-tents, 303, 304. - - Fly-casting, 153-156. - - Fly-rods, 153-156. - - Flying-wedge kite, the, 135, 136. - - Fountain, a, how made, 9-14. - - Fox, curing the skin of, 347; - stretcher, 349. - - - Ground-hogs, how to trap, 346. - - Grubs for fish bait, 167. - - Guinea-pig houses, 39-41. - - Gun, the care of a, 330, 331; - the handling of a, 331-333. - - - Half hitches, two, 289, 290. - - Hammock, a canvas, 312, 313. - - Handles for walking-sticks, 374, 375. - - “High-flyer,” a, 95-98. - - Hitches: the “Becket,” 160; - two half, 289, 290; - the clove, _ibid._; - the slippery, 290, 291; - the Blackwall, _ibid._; - the timber, _ibid._; - the rolling, _ibid._; - the Magnus, 291; - the catspaw, 291, 292; - the sheepshank, _ibid._; - the marling, _ibid._ - _See also_ Bends and Knots. - - Hook-and-ladder truck, a, 198-200. - - Hooks, fish, 149, 150; - putting, to gut, 158. - - Hoop drop-net, a, how to make, 176. - - Hoop-stretcher, a, 347, 349. - - Hose-carriage, a, 195-198. - - House-boats, 261-277; - a house-punt, 261-267; - a house-raft, 267-277. - - Houses for guinea-pigs, 39-41. - - How to grow walking-sticks, 367-369. - - Hut, a low twin-tree, 350-356; - a high twin-tree, 350-356; - a single-tree, 359, 360; - a low single-tree, 360, 361. - - Hutches for rabbits, 43-45. - - - Ice-boats, 249-260; - a sloop-rigged ice-yacht, 249-253; - a twin-mast ice-yacht, 253, 254; - scoots and scooters, 255-259; - a wind-runner, 259, 260. - - Ice-sail, a square-rigged, 118. - - Ice-yacht, a sloop-rigged, how to make, 249-253; - a twin-mast, 253, 254. - - “Invisible,” or “whip-finish,” knot, the, 158, 160. - - - Kennels for dogs, 36-39. - - Kites: the ship, 120-122; - the Chinese-junk, 122-124; - the schooner, 124, 125; - a balloon, 125, 126; - an air-ship, 126, 127; - bat-wing, 128; - crown-top, _ibid._; - Sandwich Island bird, 129-131; - box, 132, 133; - the “paralleloplane,” 134, 135; - the flying-wedge, 135-138; - the double-plane, _ibid._; - reels, 138-143. - - Knots: the “invisible,” or “whip-finish,” 158, 160; - the reef, 282, 283, 285; - the bowline, 283, 285; - the bowline on a bight, 283, 284, 285; - the running bowline, 284, 285; - the wall, _ibid._; - the crown wall, 284, 285, 286; - diagrams showing, 285; - the double wall and double crown, 285, 286; - a stopper, _ibid._; - a man rope, _ibid._; - the Matthew Walker, _ibid._; - the diamond, _ibid._; - the Turk’s head, 285, 287; - the rope yarn, _ibid._; - the lark’s head, _ibid._ - _See also_ Bends and Hitches. - - Knotting of gut, 158, 159, 160. - - - Landing-net, a, for fish, 151. - - Land-yacht, a, 177-182. - - Lark, a, how to make, 230-235. - - Lark’s head knot, the, 285, 287. - - Lee-board, a, 225. - - Lines, fish, 149. - - Lizards, pens for, 47, 48, 50, 51. - - Lock-boxes for camping outfit, 316, 317, 318. - - - Magnus hitch, the, 291. - - Man rope knot, a, 285, 286. - - Marling hitch, the, 291, 292. - - Marten-trap, a, 344. - - Merry-go-round, a, construction of, 24-28; - vane, 69, 70. - - Mink, curing the skin of, 347, 348, 349; - stretcher, 349. - - Mink-trap, a, 342, 343, 344. - - Minnows for fish bait, 151, 161, 166, 167, 168. - - Mortar, a snowball, 118, 119. - - Muskrat-trap, a, 339, 340, 341, 342. - - - Nest of pockets, a, for camping outfit, 317, 318. - - - Oak walking-sticks, 371. - - Opossum, curing the skin of, 347. - - Ovens, camp, how to make, 323, 324, 325. - - Paddle-wheels: different kinds, 201; - the modern turbine, 202; - a simple paddle-wheel, 202, 203; - a wagon wheel, 203, 204; - a barrel-wheel, 204, 205; - an undershot-wheel, 206; - a power-wheel, 206, 207, 208. - - Pens for reptiles, 47-51. - - Pet shelters, 29-51; - for martins, 30-32; - for birds, 32-34; - for pigeons, 34-36; - for dogs, 36-39; - for guinea-pigs, 39-41; - for chickens, 41-43; - for rabbits, 43-45; - for squirrels, 45-47; - for chipmunks, _ibid._; - for white rats, _ibid._; - for reptiles, 47-51. - - Pergola, a back-yard, 53, 54; - a rustic, 55, 56, 57; - a circular, 57, 58. - - Pigeon-cotes, 34-36. - - Pinion-wheel, weather-vane, a, 60-62; - a barrel-hoop, 72. - - Pockets, a nest of, for camping outfit, 317, 318. - - Power-boat, a, how to make, 235-238. - - Proa, a, how to make, 228-230. - - Pumping windmill, a, 73, 77. - - Punt, a, how to make, 212-214; - a house, 261. - - Pushmobile, a, 185-190. - - Putting the hook to gut, 157, 158, 159, 160. - - - Rabbit, hutches, 43-45; - snares, 335, 336, 337, 338; - traps, 338, 339. - - Raccoon, curing the skin of, 347, 349. - - Reef knot, the, 282, 283, 285. - - Reel, a chest, 139, 140; - a box, 141, 142, 143. - - Reels, kite, 138-143; - fish, 150. - - Repairing fishing-tackle, 156-160. - - Reptile pens, 47-51. - - Rocker-coaster, a, 103, 105. - - Rods, fishing, elasticity of, 148; - bait, 148, 151; - fly, 148, 149, 153-156; - split-bamboo, 149; - handling of, 151, 152, 153; - repairing, 157, 158, 159. - - Rolling hitch, the, 290, 291. - - Rope yarn knot, the, 285, 287. - - Running bowline knot, the, 284, 285. - - - Sable, trap for, 344; - curing the skin of, 347. - - Sail-skating and snowball artillery, 115-119; - a skating sail, 115-117; - a square-rigged ice-sail, 118; - a snowball mortar, 118, 119. - - Sail-wagon, a, 182-185. - - Sandwich Island bird kite, the, 129, 130, 131, 132. - - Scap-net, how made, 19, 175, 176. - - Scoots and scooters, “ice-water boats,” 255-259. - - Scow, a, how to make, 214, 215. - - Seine for catching live bait, 161, 162, 163. - - Self-acting aërial-car, 86-91. - - Sharpy, a, how to make, 215-218; - a sailing, 221-225; - a centre-board, 225-228. - - Sheepshank hitch, the, 291, 292. - - Sheet bend, the, 289. - - Shelters for pets, 29-51; - for martins, 30-32; - for birds, 32-34; - for pigeons, 34-36; - for dogs, 36-39; - for guinea-pigs, 39-41; - for chickens, 41-43; - for rabbits, 43-45, - for squirrels, 45-47; - for chipmunks, _ibid._; - for white rats, _ibid._; - for reptiles, 47-51. - - Ship kite, the, 120, 121, 122. - - Single-runner coaster, a, 106, 107, 108. - - Sinkers, fish, 150, 152, 164. - - Skating-sail, a, 115-117. - - Skees, Norway, 110, 111. - - Skins, animal, how to cure, 346-349. - - Skunks, trap for, 342, 346; - curing the skin of, 347. - - Sled-toboggan, a, 103, 104. - - Slippery hitch, the, 290, 291. - - Snails, for aquariums, 20, 23. - - Snakes, pens for, 47, 48, 49. - - Snares, 334; - for rabbits, 335, 336, 337, 338. - - Snowball mortar, a, 118, 119. - - Snow-shoes, the Iroquois, 111, 112; - the Esquimaux, 112, 113; - oval, 114. - - South Sea Island proa, a, how to make, 228-230. - - Splices: how made, 159; - different kinds, 280; - the eye-splice, 280, 281; - diagrams showing, 281; - the short splice, 281, 282; - the long splice, 282. - - Splicing a fishing-rod, 157, 158. - - Square-rigged ice-sail, a, 118. - - Squirrel cages, 45-47. - - Stone stoves for campers, 319, 320, 321. - - Stopper knot, a, 285, 286. - - Stoves, stone, for campers, 319, 320, 321. - - Stretchers for drying skins, 347, 348, 349. - - Summer-house, a simple, 52-53, 58. - - - Tables for camp life, 301, 313, 314, 315. - - Tadpoles for aquariums, 20. - - Tent, for camping out, 295; - a medium-size, 295-300; - a large camping, 300-303; - a house, 304-307; - the new, 307-310. - - Tepees, square, 6, 7; - ridge-pole, 7, 8, 9. - - Timber hitch, the, 290, 291. - - Toadstool tree canopy, a, 54, 55. - - Toboggan, an eight-foot, 102, 103; - a sled, 103. - - Trap, a, for small fish, 169-171; - for water-turtles, 171, 172. - - Traps and trapping, 334-349; - rabbit-traps, 338, 339; - muskrat-traps, 339, 340, 341, 342; - mink-traps, 342, 343; - skunk-traps, 342, 346; - deadfalls, 342, 344, 345; - sable-traps, 344; - martin-traps, _ibid._; - woodchuck-traps, 346; - ground-hog-traps, _ibid._ - _See also_ Snares. - - Tree huts and brush-houses, 350-366; - a low twin-tree hut, 350-356; - a high twin-tree hut, 355-358; - a single-tree hut, 359, 360; - a low single-tree hut, 360, 361; - a brush-house, 361-364; - a brush “lean-to,” 364-366. - - Truck, a hook-and-ladder, 198-200. - - Turk’s head knot, the, 285, 287. - - Turtles, water, a trap for, 171, 172. - - “Twitch-up,” a, for rabbits, 335, 336; - a French, 336, 337, 338. - - Two half hitches, 289, 290. - - - Wagon, a sail, 182-185. - - Walker, Matthew, knot, the, 285, 286. - - Walking-sticks, 367-375; - how to grow, 367-369; - holly, 370, 371; - ash, 371; - oak, _ibid._; - elm, _ibid._; - from fruit trees, 371, 372; - from wild orange, 372; - method of treatment, 372, 373, 374; - handles for, 374; - demand for, 375. - - Wall knot, the, 284, 285. - - Water in aquariums, to aërate, 22. - - Water-turtles, a trap for, 171, 172. - - Water-wheels: different kinds, 201; - the modern turbine, 202; - a simple paddle-wheel, 202, 203; - a wagon wheel, 203, 204; - a barrel-wheel, 204, 205; - an undershot-wheel, 206; - a power-wheel, 206, 207, 208. - - Weasel, curing the skin of, 347. - - Weather-vanes, 59-80; - a pinion-wheel, 60-62; - a wind-speeder, 62-64; - the arrow, 64, 65; - wooden, 65, 66; - a wind-pennant, 66, 67; - a basket-ball, 67-69; - a merry-go-round, 69-71. - - Wheel-race, a, construction of, 208. - - Wigwams, Indian, 3-6. - - Windmills, 59-80; - wind turbine, 71-73; - pumping, 73-77; - tower, 78-80. - - Wind-pennant, a, 66, 67. - - Wind-runner, a, how to make, 259, 260. - - Wind-sails, 115, 116, 117, 118. - - Wind-speeder, a, 62, 63. - - Wind turbine, a, 71-73. - - Woodchucks, how to trap, 346. - - Wooden weather-vanes, 63, 65, 66. - - Wolf, curing the skin of, 347. - - Worms for fish bait, 150, 151, 152, 161, 166. - - - Yacht, a land, 177-182. - - - - - THE END - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE: - - - Silently corrected obvious punctuation errors. - - Illustrations moved so as to not split paragraphs. - - Unless noted below, spelling and hyphenation are retained as in the - original. - - Other changes: - - • Page IV: Removed page reference from caption - • Page 40: mi way → midway - • Page 53: to have the roof → to have to roof - • Page 68: The frame-work must be → The framework must be - • Page 70: pine or whitewood → pine or white-wood - • Page 128: Fig. 12, AA → Fig. 12, A A - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Harper's Outdoor Book for Boys, by Various - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARPER'S OUTDOOR BOOK FOR BOYS *** - -***** This file should be named 53705-0.txt or 53705-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/7/0/53705/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, David Maranhao and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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- margin: 0.8em; font-family: sans-serif, serif; font-size: small; - text-align: center; } - div.pt4 { padding-top: 4em; } - div.pt4 { padding-top: 4em; } - .toc {} - .toc .large { font-size: 0.91em; } - .toc .small { font-size: 0.85em; } - .toc .xsmall { font-size: 0.82em; } - .toc .xlarge { font-size: 1.05em; } - div.transnote { background-color: #eef; border: dashed 1px #aaa; color: black; - padding: 1em; font-family: sans-serif, serif; } - div.transnote h2 { margin-top: 1em; font-weight: normal; } - </style> - </head> - <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Harper's Outdoor Book for Boys, by Various - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Harper's Outdoor Book for Boys - -Author: Various - -Editor: Joseph H. Adams - -Release Date: December 10, 2016 [EBook #53705] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARPER'S OUTDOOR BOOK FOR BOYS *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, David Maranhao and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='covernote'> - -<b>Transcriber's Note:</b> The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain. - -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_I'>I</span></p> -<div class="boxed center"> -<p class="ad1 center">HARPER’S “TELL ME HOW” BOOKS</p> -<p class="ad3 center mt03"><i>A New Series</i></p> -<p class="ad2 mt03">HARPER’S GASOLINE ENGINE BOOK</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S AIRCRAFT BOOK</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S WIRELESS BOOK</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S BEGINNING ELECTRICITY</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S EVERY-DAY ELECTRICITY</p> -<p class="ad3 center mt03">Illustrated. Crown 8vo.</p> -<hr class="small"/> -<p class="ad1 center">HARPER’S PRACTICAL BOOKS</p> -<p class="ad2 mt03">HARPER’S BOOK FOR YOUNG GARDENERS</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S BOOK FOR YOUNG NATURALISTS</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S HOW TO UNDERSTAND ELECTRICAL<br/> WORK</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S ELECTRICITY BOOK FOR BOYS</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S BOATING BOOK FOR BOYS</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S CAMPING AND SCOUTING</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S OUTDOOR BOOK FOR BOYS</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S INDOOR BOOK FOR BOYS</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S MACHINERY BOOK FOR BOYS</p> -<p class="ad2">HARPER’S HANDY BOOK FOR GIRLS</p> -<p class="ad3 center mt03">Illustrated. Crown 8vo.</p> -<hr class="small"/> -<p class="ad2">THE STORY OF GREAT INVENTIONS</p> -<p class="ad3 center mt03">Uniform in appearance with above.</p> -<p class="ad2 mt03">MOTOR BOATING FOR BOYS</p> -<p class="ad3 center mt03">Illustrated. Crown 8vo.</p> -<hr class="small"/> -<p class="ad2 center"><b>HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK</b></p> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> -<div id='i_004' class='figcenter id002'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_IV'>IV</span> -<img src='images/i_004.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><a href='#Page_359'>FIG. 11—A SINGLE-TREE HUT</a></p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_V'>V</span></p> -<div class="cornertopleft"> -<div class="cornertopright"> -<div class="bordertop"> -</div> -</div> -</div> -<div class="borderleft"> -<div class="borderright"> -<br/> -<br/> - -<div> - <h1 class='c002'>HARPER’S<br />OUTDOOR BOOK<br /><span class='c003'>FOR BOYS</span></h1> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c000'> - <div class='c000'><span class='large'>BY</span></div> - <div><span class='xlarge'>JOSEPH H. ADAMS</span></div> - <div class='c000'><span class='xsmall'>WITH CONTRIBUTIONS BY</span></div> - <div><span class='xsmall'>KIRK MUNROE, TAPPAN ADNEY</span></div> - <div><span class='xsmall'>CAPT. HOWARD PATTERSON</span></div> - <div><span class='xsmall'>LEROY MILTON YALE</span></div> - <div><span class='xsmall'>AND OTHERS</span></div> - <div class='c004'><span class='xsmall'>WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div id='i_005' class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/i_005b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='small'>HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS</span></div> - <div><span class='xxsmall'>NEW YORK AND LONDON</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<br/> -<br/> -</div> -</div> -<div class="cornerbottomleft"> -<div class="cornerbottomright"> -<div class="borderbottom"> -</div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> - -<p class='c001'><span class='pageno' id='Page_VI'>VI</span></p> -<div class='pt4'> - -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><span class='xsmall'>Copyright, 1907, by <span class='sc'>Harper & Brothers</span>.</span></div> - <div><span class='xsmall'>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</span></div> - <div><span class='xsmall'>B-W</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pt4'> - -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c000' /> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_VII'>VII</span> - <h2 id='contents' class='c005'>CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<div class='c004'></div> -<div class="toc"> - -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='91%' /> -<col width='8%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr><td class='c006' colspan='2'><span class='xlarge'><b>Part I</b></span></td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c006' colspan='2'><span class='xlarge'><b>IN BOUNDS</b></span></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xxsmall'>PAGE</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_i'>CHAPTER I.—BACK-YARD PLEASURES</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_i'>3</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_i_1'>A Wigwam</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_i_2'>A Square Tepee</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_i_3'>A Ridge-pole Tepee</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_i_4'>A Fountain</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_i_5'>An Aquarium</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_i_6'>How to Manage an Aquarium</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_i_7'>A Merry-go-round</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_ii'>CHAPTER II.—PET SHELTERS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_ii'>29</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_1'>Martin Boxes</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_2'>Bird Shelters</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_3'>Pigeon-cotes</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_4'>Dog-kennels</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_5'>Guinea-pig Houses</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_6'>Chicken-coops</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_7'>Rabbit-hutches</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_8'>Squirrel Cages</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ii_9'>Reptile Pens</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_iii'>CHAPTER III.—SUMMER-HOUSES AND PERGOLAS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_iii'>52</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iii_1'>A Simple Summer-house</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iii_2'>A Back-yard Pergola</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iii_3'>A Toadstool Tree Canopy</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iii_4'>A Rustic Pergola</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iii_5'>A Circular Pergola</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iii_6'>A Summer Shelter</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_iv'>CHAPTER IV.—WEATHER-VANES AND WINDMILLS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_iv'>59</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_1'>A Pinion-wheel Weather-vane</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_2'>A Wind-speeder</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_3'>The Arrow Weather-vane</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_4'>Wooden Vanes</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_5'>A Wind-pennant</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_6'>A Basket-ball Vane</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_7'>A Merry-go-round</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_8'>A Wind Turbine</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_9'>A Barrel-hoop Pinion-wheel</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_10'>A Pumping Windmill</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_iv_11'>A Windmill and Tower</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_VIII'>VIII</span><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_v'>CHAPTER V.—AËRIAL TOYS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_v'>81</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_v_1'>The Elastic Flying-machine</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_v_2'>Self-acting Aërial Car</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_v_3'>Aërial Boat-sailing</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_v_4'>A “High-flyer”</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c006' colspan='2'><span class='xlarge'><b>Part II</b></span></td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c006' colspan='2'><span class='xlarge'><b>AFIELD</b></span></td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_vi'>CHAPTER VI.—COASTERS, SKEES, AND SNOW-SHOES</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_vi'>101</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vi_1'>Toboggans</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vi_2'>A Rocker-coaster</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vi_3'>A Single-runner Coaster</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vi_4'>A Bob-sled</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vi_5'>Skees</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vi_6'>Snow-shoes</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_vii'>CHAPTER VII.—SAIL-SKATING AND SNOWBALL ARTILLERY</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_vii'>115</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vii_1'>A Skating-sail</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vii_2'>A Square-rigged Ice-sail</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_vii_3'>A Snowball Mortar</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_viii'>CHAPTER VIII.—KITES AND AEROPLANES</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_viii'>120</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_1'>The Ship Kite</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_2'>The Chinese-junk Kite</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_3'>The Schooner Kite</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_4'>A Balloon Kite</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_5'>An Air-ship Kite</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_6'>Bat-wing and Crown-top Kites</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_7'>Sandwich Islands Bird Kite</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_8'>Box Kites</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_9'>The Flying-wedge and Double-plane Kite</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_viii_10'>Kite-reels</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_ix'>CHAPTER IX.—FISHING-TACKLE</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_ix'>144</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_1'>Choice of Tackle</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_2'>Bait-rods and Fly-rods</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_3'>Repairs, Knots, and Splices</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_4'>Aids for Young Anglers</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_5'>Baits, and Where to Find Them</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_6'>A Trap for Small Fish</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_7'>A Water-turtle Trap</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_8'>An Eel-pot</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_9'>A Scap-net</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_ix_10'>A Hook Drop-net</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_IX'>IX</span><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_x'>CHAPTER X.—LAND-YACHTS AND PUSHMOBILES</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_x'>177</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_x_1'>A Land-yacht</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_x_2'>A Sail-wagon</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_x_3'>A Pushmobile</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xi'>CHAPTER XI.—FIRE-ENGINES AND TRUCKS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xi'>191</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xi_1'>The Engine</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xi_2'>The Hose-carriage</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xi_3'>The Hook-and-Ladder Truck</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xii'>CHAPTER XII.—WATER-WHEELS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xii'>201</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xii_1'>A Simple Paddle-wheel</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xii_2'>A Wagon Wheel</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xii_3'>A Barrel-wheel</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xii_4'>An Undershot-wheel</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xii_5'>A Power-wheel</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xii_6'>A Wheel-race</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c006' colspan='2'><span class='xlarge'><b>Part III</b></span></td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c006' colspan='2'><span class='xlarge'><b>AFLOAT</b></span></td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xiii'>CHAPTER XIII.—BOATS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xiii'>211</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiii_1'>Punt and Scow</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiii_2'>A Sharpy</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiii_3'>A Dory</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiii_4'>A Sailing Sharpy</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiii_5'>A Centre-board Sharpy</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiii_6'>A Proa</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiii_7'>A Lark</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiii_8'>A Power-boat</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xiv'>CHAPTER XIV.—CATAMARANS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xiv'>239</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiv_1'>A Rowing Catamaran</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiv_2'>A Sailing Catamaran</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xiv_3'>A Side-wheel Catamaran</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xv'>CHAPTER XV.—ICE-BOATS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xv'>249</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xv_1'>A Sloop-rigged Ice-yacht</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xv_2'>A Twin-mast Ice-boat</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xv_3'>Scoots and Scooters</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xv_4'>A Wind-runner</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xvi'>CHAPTER XVI.—HOUSE-BOATS AND RAFTS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xvi'>261</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xvi_1'>A House-punt</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xvi_2'>A House-raft</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xvi_3'>A Float</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_X'>X</span><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xvii'>CHAPTER XVII.—MARLINE-SPIKE SEAMANSHIP</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xvii'>280</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xvii_1'>Splices</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xvii_2'>Knots</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xvii_3'>Bends</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xvii_4'>Hitches</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c006' colspan='2'><span class='xlarge'><b>Part IV</b></span></td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c006' colspan='2'><span class='xlarge'><b>IN THE WOODS</b></span></td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xviii'>CHAPTER XVIII.—CAMPS AND CAMPING</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xviii'>295</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_1'>A Tent of Medium Size</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_2'>A Large Camping-tent</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_3'>Flies and Canopies</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_4'>A House-tent</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_5'>The New Tent</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_6'>Canvas Cots and Hammocks</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_7'>Tables and Benches</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_8'>Camping Equipment</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_9'>Lockers and Mess-kits</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_10'>A Stone Stove and Camp-fires</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_11'>Camp-cooking</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xviii_12'>The Care of a Gun</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xix'>CHAPTER XIX.—TRAPS AND TRAPPING</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xix'>334</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xix_1'>Snares and Deadfalls</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xx'>CHAPTER XX.—TREE HUTS AND BRUSH-HOUSES</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xx'>350</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xx_1'>A Low Twin-tree Hut</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xx_2'>A High Twin-tree Hut</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xx_3'>A Single-tree Hut</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xx_4'>A Low Single-tree Hut</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xx_5'>A Brush-house</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xx_6'>A Brush “Lean-to”</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'><span class='large'><a href='#chapter_xxi'>CHAPTER XXI.—WALKING-STICKS</a></span></td> - <td class='c008'><span class='xsmall'><a href='#chapter_xxi'>367</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><span class='small'><span class='sc'><a href='#section_xxi_1'>How to Grow Them for Pleasure and Profit</a></span></span></td> - <td class='c008'></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_XI'>XI</span> - <h2 id='introduction' class='c005'>INTRODUCTION</h2> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>“How</span> to do it,” might very well be the title of this new -handy-book for American boys. It is first and last a -practical guide, based upon the experience of those who -have done what they describe. Results are wanted, not -theories in a book of this kind, and careful tests have been -applied to secure working results and the certainty that -everything will come out all right.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Another point, which has had the most careful attention -of a board of editors, is that of selection. It would be easy -to include a quantity of sports and games, and also plans -for elaborate contrivances neither particularly amusing -nor necessary when done. But the object of this book is -to show boys how to do accurately things which are quite -within their powers, and things also which will be a satisfaction -when they are done. The plan followed is to develop -a boy’s ingenuity and mechanical ability along lines -which will reward him. In short, the book is intended to -help a boy to think and act for himself and to have fun in -doing it.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The plan of arrangement which is followed is the natural -one—to begin at home. The back yard lies immediately -at hand. Let us see what can be done there. The aquarium, -pet shelters, windmills, and many other contrivances -are identified with the home.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_XII'>XII</span>Going farther afield we learn the making of coasters and -skees, ice-boats and snow cannon, and all that enters into -winter sports. There is the air, also, with its invitation to -kites and aeroplanes, and there is water, with all the -chances for the use of water-power and sport. Fishing -itself is something best learned by experience, but the -choice and management of tackle afford a most instructive -theme. And water naturally has an importance which -requires an entire division of the book wherein boat-building -and boat-management of all kinds are thoroughly -and practically explained.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Camping out, which appeals to every healthy boy, is -treated from every point of view in the fourth division of -the book, which includes also trapping, taxidermy, and tree -huts and brush houses.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In all these general divisions the aim of the editors and -author has been to show in the simplest and most accurate -way how to do things which are amusing to do and valuable -when done.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The principal contributor to this book is an amateur carpenter, -boat-builder, and mechanician as well as an artist -and writer. One editor has had a wide practical experience -in almost everything that has to do with out-door amusements. -Another has camped and fished in the four corners -of our country and in Canada. All their experience has -been combined to prepare a convenient out-door handy-book -free from unnecessary words and details, and filled -with the latest and best methods, which will be indispensable -to every American boy who likes the fun of doing -things for himself.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_1'>1</span> - <h2 id='part_i' class='c005'>Part I<br /> <br /><span class='xlarge'>IN BOUNDS</span></h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span><span class='xlarge'>OUT-DOOR BOOK FOR BOYS</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<h3 id='chapter_i' class='c013'>Chapter I<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>BACK-YARD PLEASURES</span></h3> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>Since</span> home is the natural centre of life, it will be most -helpful if we find out what we can do just outside -the house. In large cities there is usually no front yard, -and even where such space exists its use as a play-ground -is apt to be undesirable. But the back yard even in cities -often affords some chances not only for gardening on a -small scale but also for making and using a variety of -things which will furnish constant amusement.</p> - -<h4 id='section_i_1' class='c014'>A Wigwam</h4> - -<p class='c015'>For boys who like to “play Injun” in the back yard, here -are some ideas for tepees and wigwams that may easily be -followed cut at a very small cost for the poles and canvas.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Canvas can be bought at a dry-goods or country store, -and poles may be cut in the woods; or one-and-one-half-inch-square -spruce sticks may be purchased at a lumber-yard -and dressed round with a draw-knife and plane. When -<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>cutting poles for a wigwam it is necessary to select very -straight ones, preferably of pine, for crooked or knotty -poles are unsightly and make an uneven exterior.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The real Indian tepee is made from buckskin or other -strong hides lashed together with rawhide thongs; but as -this covering is beyond the reach of the average boy, the -next best thing to use will be heavy twilled canvas or stout -unbleached muslin that can be had for about ten cents a -yard. The regulation wigwam is perhaps the most satisfactory -kind of a tent, for it is roomy, will shed water, and -it is about the only tent in which a fire may be built without -smoking out the occupants. The tepee will not blow over -if properly set up and stayed with an anchor-rope, and it is -easily taken down and moved from place to place.</p> - -<div id='i_017' class='figcenter id004'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span> -<img src='images/i_017.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A WIGWAM</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>For a party of three or four boys the wigwam shown in -Fig. 1 will afford ample room, and it is not so large as to -be unhandy. Select thirteen straight poles, not more than -two inches thick at the bottom, and clear them from knots -and projecting twigs. They should be ten feet long and -pointed at the bottom so as to stick into the ground for a -few inches. Tie three of them together eighteen inches -from the top, and form a tripod on a circle five feet and six -inches in diameter. Place the other poles against this tripod -to form a cone, as shown in Fig. 2, and lash them fast -at the top with a piece of clothes-line. From unbleached -muslin or sail-cloth (light weight) make a cover as shown -in the diagram Fig. 3. Lay out a sixteen-foot circle on a -barn floor, or the grass, with chalk, and indicate an eighteen-inch -circle at the middle. Around the outer circle or -periphery measure off nineteen feet and chalk-mark the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span>space. From these marks to the centre of the circle draw -straight lines, and within these limits the area of the wigwam -cover will be shown. It should correspond with the -plan drawing in Fig. 3. The muslin should be three feet -wide and with it this area can be covered in any direction, -sewing the strips together to make the large sheet; or the -muslin may be cut in strips three feet wide at one end and -tapering to a few inches at the other, as shown in Fig. 4, -the seams running up and down the canvas instead of across -it. The outer edge of the canvas cover should be bound -with clothes-line or cotton rope, sewed securely with waxed -white string; then thirteen short ropes should be passed -over this rope so that the canvas may be lashed fast to the -foot of each pole to hold the cover in place. The doorway -flaps are formed by stopping the lacings three feet up from -the ground. With short ropes and rings sewed to the cover -the flaps may be tied back, as shown in Fig. 1.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The real Indian wigwams are decorated with all sorts of -emblems, for even the uncivilized red men had their crests -and totems, and the boys who make these tepees can easily -invent some mark which will distinguish their tent abode -from all others. The ornamentation should be done with -paint and should be carried out before the canvas covering -is stretched over the poles.</p> - -<h4 id='section_i_2' class='c014'>A Square Tepee</h4> - -<div id='i_019' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_019.jpg' alt='Fig. 5, Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>A square tepee, as shown in the illustration Fig. 5, is -another form of rear-yard tent that is easily made. Twelve -poles are selected and four of them are lashed fast and spread -<span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>apart on a square of six feet. Two poles are added to each -side and all are lashed together at the head. Four pieces -of canvas or heavy unbleached muslin are cut and made on -the plan as shown in Fig. 6, the strips being cut from goods -a yard wide. These pieces are six feet long, one foot wide -at the head, and six feet at the foot. The seam through the -middle of one piece is left open for three feet to form the -doorway flaps, then the four sides are securely sewed together -with waxed white string. This cover is slipped -about the pole frame, tied at the front, and held down -by means of short ropes that are lashed fast to the foot of -each pole. The cover is decorated with paint to give it -the Indian appearance, and when the flaps are tied back it -is easy to go into and come out of the tepee.</p> - -<h4 id='section_i_3' class='c014'>A Ridge-pole Tepee</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A ridge-pole tepee is shown in Fig. 7, and is a very -easy and simple one to make, for it is of one piece of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>canvas with two flaps sewed at each side to form the -ends.</p> - -<div id='i_020a' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_020a.jpg' alt='Fig. 7' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div id='i_020b' class='figleft id006'> -<img src='images/i_020b.jpg' alt='Fig. 8' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>One ridge and two upright poles make the framework, -and they are held in place by the canvas, which is drawn and -lashed fast to stakes driven in the ground, as may be seen -in the drawing. The ridge-pole is eight feet long, one and -a half inches thick, and four -inches wide. Two inches -from either end a half-inch -hole is bored to receive the -iron pins that are driven -in the ends of the uprights -as shown at Fig. 8 A and -B. The upright poles are eight feet long, and when set -one foot of the lower end should be embedded in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>ground. The sides are in one piece of muslin made by -sewing widths of it together. The sheet measures seventeen -feet long and eight feet wide; and when stretched over the -ridge-pole and fastened down at both sides an inverted -shape will be the result. It is ten feet across at the bottom, -seven feet high, and eight feet long at each side. For the -back it will be necessary to make a triangular piece of canvas -the right size to fit the opening, or two flaps may be -cut, divided at the middle, and tied back, or laced, to close -the tent. The apron or part enclosure at the front is -formed from pieces of canvas two feet wide sewed along -the edges and caught together at the middle over the -opening.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Ten pegs eighteen inches long and two inches wide are -cut from hard-wood as shown at Fig. 8 C. These are -driven in the ground at an angle and ropes attached to the -lower edges of the canvas sidings are lashed fast to them. -This tepee is long enough to swing a hammock from pole -to pole, and on a warm summer night makes an ideal place -for sleeping out-of-doors. The covering, like that of the -other wigwams, may be decorated with Indian emblems, -and if a party of boys are going to camp in the back yard -their tepees can be inscribed with different crests and totems -to indicate individual ownership.</p> - -<h4 id='section_i_4' class='c014'>A Fountain</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A practicable rear-yard fountain may be made with a -brick or concrete basin, an underground pipe-line and an -overflow, thus insuring a continuous flow and discharge.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>In Fig. 9 the basin, pipe, and trap are shown with the -inlet pipe fitted for a hose connection. Three plates of -different sizes are used for the traps, and if care is taken in -drilling the holes an opening may be made in the bottom -of each plate so that it will slip over the stand-pipe. Tin -or enamelled iron plates will answer the purpose very well -for a while, but the tin plates would soon rust unless frequently -painted. The white earthern-ware plates will present -the best appearance and will last indefinitely.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Dig a circular hole thirty inches across and twelve inches -deep, and with cement and sand make a hard bottom or bed. -Use a trowel and smooth the cement so that the top surface -is smooth. With some bricks form a circle, as shown at -Fig. 10. With a cold-chisel and mallet cut away the edges -of two bricks so that the overflow pipe will pass between -them, as shown at A in Fig. 10.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The pipe should be half or three-quarter inch galvanized -water-pipe, and it may be purchased at a plumber’s shop for -a few cents a foot.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The supply-pipe is three-eighths-inch galvanized water-pipe, -and should be set in place under the concrete bottom -of the basin before the cement is poured in. The upright, -or stand-pipe, is thirty-six inches high from the elbow, B -(Fig. 10), in the ground. The cross-pipe leading out is -eighteen or twenty inches long, and the short upright that -comes to the surface outside the basin is fifteen inches long -and is to be provided with a hose connection so that a -garden hose may be attached to it. The stand-pipe in the -basin and the cross-piece should be embedded in the cement -concrete, and when it is dry and hardens around the pipes -<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>it will hold them securely in place. When the circle of -bricks is complete, fill in the crevices with equal parts of -cement and sand mixed into a mortar. This will lock the -bricks together; then plaster the cement all around the inside -of the circle and some at the outside so as to make a -water-tight basin.</p> - -<div id='i_023' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_023.jpg' alt='Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 11, Fig. 12, Fig. 13' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Earth is to be put back into the hole outside the circle of -bricks and the sod replaced, so that grass will grow right -up to the edge of the basin rim, which should project an -inch or two above the surface of the ground.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From a plumber or gas-fitter obtain some old pieces of -brass tubing an inch in diameter, cut one of them fourteen -<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>inches long, and slip it down over the stand-pipe. The -lowest and largest plate rests on this. Next cut a piece -of tubing nine inches long and slip it over the pipe. The -second plate rests on this and the top plate is supported by -a piece of the tubing cut six inches in length and slipped -over the pipe. If porcelain dishes are used, make the first -hole in them as follows:</p> - -<p class='c011'>Obtain a stout, three-inch steel wire nail, a block of wood -about three inches square, having an inch hole bored at one -end, and a small hard-wood mallet. Place a plate on the -block of wood, inverted so that its centre will be exactly -over the hole. Place the point of the nail on the plate, -taking care to get it in the centre; then give it a sharp, quick -blow with the mallet. If this is properly done a small -piece of the porcelain will be driven out, but remember that -if the blow is not properly centred it will break the plate. -For this reason it is best to practise first on a broken plate; -or if the porcelain seems to be impossible, the painted tin or -enamelled plates will have to answer. A perforated porcelain -plate is shown in Fig. 11 A. The ragged hole can be -smoothed out or chafed away with an old rat-tail or half-round -file. A brass reducer and a gas pillar should be -screwed fast to the top of the stand-pipe so that a jet of -water about a quarter of an inch in diameter will shoot -above the pipe.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If a little wooden ball is to dance at the top of the jet, -a half-circular basket will be necessary to catch the ball -when it falls, so that the stream of water can pick it up -again. This is made from brass or galvanized wire, and -where the wires cross bind the joint with fine copper wire -<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>and solder the joints so as to make them rigid. A small -brass ferrule or short piece of pipe should be soldered to the -bottom of this basket, so as to hold it in place when slipped -over the pillar or nozzle. This basket and its shape is more -clearly shown in Fig. 11 B. It should be six or eight inches -in diameter and three inches deep, with the wires close -enough together to prevent the ball from falling through.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If it is not possible to get the bricks of which to form the -basin, a concrete wall can be made instead. Dig the hole -as before described; then construct a cylinder of wood -twenty-four inches in diameter and eight inches thick. -Floor over the bottom of the hole with concrete, after the -stand-pipe is in place, and around the edge of the concrete -floor and outside the cylinder embed some small stones -so that the filling will hold fast. This is shown at <i>c c</i> in -Fig. 12. Slip the wooden cylinder over the stand-pipe so -that it will occupy the position as shown in Fig. 12. Make -a mixture of coarse sand or gravel and cement, half and half, -and add a shovel or two of small stones, preferably cracked, -such as are used for the under-dressing to macadam roads. -Tamp this down in the opening in the ground so as to fill -up the ditch or moat as shown at Fig. 13. The outside of -the cylinder should be thoroughly coated with lard or some -heavy grease before the concrete is poured in, so that the -wood will not absorb the moisture from the concrete and -cause it to bind in the hole. As a precaution it would be -well to make the bottom of the cylinder an inch smaller in -diameter than the top, so that it may draw out easily after -the concrete has set. The two slots shown in the top of -the cylinder are hand holes to grasp it by.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>With nearly clear cement, having but a small portion of -sand added, finish the inside of the basin and the rim with -a trowel so as to give it a smooth and even surface. The -force of water may be regulated with a faucet.</p> - -<h4 id='section_i_5' class='c014'>An Aquarium</h4> - -<div id='i_026' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_026.jpg' alt='Fig. 14, Fig. 15, Fig. 16' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c015'>There is nothing difficult in the construction of a glass-and-wood -aquarium like the one shown in Fig. 14, and the -boy who is handy with tools and careful in joining wood-work -accurately will be able to knock it together in short -order. The best size will be twenty-four inches long, fifteen -wide, and ten inches high. This will be generous enough in -proportions to accommodate a dozen or so of small fish, some -baby eels, crawfish, a turtle or two, and some water-lizards.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>From a carpenter obtain a piece of white-wood twenty-seven -inches long, seventeen inches wide, and one and a half -inches in thickness. This must be of selected stock, hard -and free from knots or sappy places. Cut four battens of -hard-wood two inches wide, an inch thick, and fifteen inches -long, and with brass screws attach them securely to the -underside of the board to prevent its warping from the -action of the water. Obtain a stick one inch and a half -square and four feet long; cut this into lengths of eleven -inches each and also prepare one eight feet long, two inches -wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick. With a groove-plane -having a quarter-inch blade cut into the square -stick on two sides as shown in Fig. 15 A. The edge of the -stick between the two grooves may then be planed off so -that an end view of the stick will appear as shown at Fig. -15 B. A groove should be cut at one side of the long stick -three-eighths of an inch from one edge so that when turned -groove side down an end will appear as shown at C in Fig. -15. This stick is to be cut in lengths fifteen and twenty-four -inches respectively for top rails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the four corners of the white-wood board cut a hole -with bit and chisel three-quarters of an inch square as -shown at Fig. 16. Saw the bottom of each square stick -so as to cut away about a quarter of an inch of wood on -each side as shown at the lower part of A in Fig. 15. This -is made so that the uprights will fit snugly into the holes -and the shoulder formed by the saw-cuts will rest on the -top of the base board.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With straight rule and pencil mark parallel lines connecting -each hole as shown at D D in Fig. 16. These lines should -<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>correspond in position with the grooves cut in the posts; -then remove the posts and with grooving-plane or chisel and -mallet cut the grooves about three-eighths of an inch in -depth. The glass sides fit into these grooves, and the top -rails made from the long stick cap the upper edges of the -glass sides. The ends should be lapped and screwed down -to the top of the corner-posts to bind the glass and wood-work -in one compact framework.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Before any of the wood-work is put together give it three -successive thin coats of black asphaltum varnish, which can -be purchased at a paint or hardware store. Each hole and -the plug ends of the corner-posts are to be coated with thick -asphaltum varnish, and when wet with the varnish the posts -are to be driven into the holes. Screws passed in through -the sides of the base board will hold them securely in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From a glazier or hardware store purchase two panes of -double-thick glass ten by fourteen inches, and two measuring -ten by twenty-two inches. Give the grooves a thick coat -of the asphaltum varnish, slide the glass down into the -grooves, and screw the top rails in place. When the glass -is in place and before the top rails are put on, the glass -should stand a quarter of an inch above the top of the -corner-posts. When the rails are laid in place the top edge -of the glass should be caught by the groove in the rails, -otherwise the glass, having no support at the top, would -bow out on account of the pressure of water, and either cause -the glass to break or the joints to leak. Press the glass sides -against the outer edges of the grooves and lightly insert -some wooden wedges into the grooves to hold the glass in -place temporarily for a day or two or until the varnish sets. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>Then fill the open spaces in the grooves with a putty made -from whiting and asphaltum varnish. This you will have -to make yourself with a putty-knife on a plate of glass, -marble, or slate, for you cannot purchase it. Common -putty is not hard enough and will not dry for months, while -the special putty will set quickly and dry hard in a few -days. When all the work is completed about the aquarium -allow it to stand for at least a week, in which time the putty -and varnish will harden.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At a paint store purchase some marine paint, also known -as “copper paint,” and give the wood-work two or three thin -successive coats, allowing it to dry for a few days between -each coat. Scrape the paint from the glass where it may -have been smeared, and the complete aquarium is ready for -water and stock.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Another way in which to construct the framework is to -take a curtain-pole one and a half inches in diameter, and at -a planing-mill have a quarter section sawed out, as shown -at Fig. 17, so that an end rim will appear as shown at B. -The part of the wood-work the buzz-saw cuts away will -correspond with the grooves cut in the square sticks.</p> - -<div id='i_030' class='figcenter id007'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span> -<img src='images/i_030.jpg' alt='Fig. 17, Fig. 18, Fig. 19, Fig. 20, Fig. 21, Fig. 22' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Four holes one and a half inches in diameter, or the same -size as the stick, are bored half-way-through the bottom-board -of the aquarium and V-shaped channels are cut in the -board connecting the holes (Fig. 18). The wood-work is -treated in a manner similar to that already described, and -the corner-posts are held in place by long brass screws -driven up through the bottom and into the lower ends of -the posts. The top rail is made the same as shown in Fig. -15 C, and the glass is set as described. At the corner-posts -the lap is well smeared with asphaltum varnish and putty -and the angle strips are screwed fast to the posts as indicated -at A in Fig. 17. While this is somewhat easier to make it -<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>is not quite so substantial for large tanks as the square post -and channels.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When catching the stock for the aquarium it is best to -use a drop-net. This is made of two iron hoops fifteen or -twenty inches in diameter and held one below the other -with cord as shown at Fig. 19. Mosquito-netting is drawn -across the lower hoop and sewed fast; then a band of it is -sewed about both hoops to close in the sides, to form a -cylinder open at the top only. Some bait is placed in the -bottom of the net, and then it is lowered into the water so -that the top hoop drops down and the whole net lies flat on -the bottom of a pond. When a number of fish are around -the bait a quick haul will raise the upper ring; then pull the -net up with the fish captives within the cylinder. You can -quickly select the ones you want, and these may be placed -in a pail partly filled with water.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For turtles, crawfish, and lizards a scap-net will be necessary. -This may be made from stout wire, a broom-handle, -and some netting. The ring may be almost any size, from -six to twelve inches in diameter, the ends being sharpened -with a file and turned so that they may be driven into the -end of the stick, which should first be bound with wire to -prevent it from splitting. The bag of mosquito-netting is -made on the hoop and sewed fast, as shown at Fig. 20. -When changing the water in the aquarium it is not necessary -to empty it all out. A siphon made of a small rubber tube -will answer very well to drain off a portion. The part of -the tube in the tank should be held close to the bottom so -as to suck up any dirt or sediment that may be there. -Good ventilation, light, healthy aquatic plants, clean sand, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>and a proper proportion of fish to the volume of water are -absolutely necessary to the successful aquarium. A few -tadpoles and snails are advantageous in an aquarium, as they -consume decaying vegetable matter and help to prevent the -formation of algæ on the glass.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For the aquarium large enough to contain them, some -artificial rockeries may be made from cement, gravel, and -stones, as shown in the illustrations of the concrete rockeries -Figs. 21 and 22. They should be made with openings -beneath for the fish to swim through, and pockets should -be made at the top to hold sand and the roots of aquatic -plants. The rockeries should have a good flat base so as to -rest securely on the bottom of the aquarium. Always have -plenty of pebbles and river-sand at the bottom of the -aquarium to make the fishes feel at home.</p> - -<h4 id='section_i_6' class='c014'>How to Manage an Aquarium</h4> - -<p class='c015'>It is generally supposed that it is necessary to change -the water in an aquarium at least once a day; but that -is not the case. The true principle on which an aquarium -should be conducted is not to change the water at all, but -so to aërate and refresh the original supply as to maintain -it always in a pure and perfect state. There are several -means by which this may be done. The healthy growth -of plants is very important, and active and brisk contact -with the air of the atmosphere will greatly freshen the -water. Motion in the water is absolutely necessary. In -large aquaria this is obtained by an arrangement of tanks -into which the water is pumped, and from which it flows -<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>rapidly, circulating through the tanks where the fish live. -In its passage through the air it absorbs considerable oxygen, -without which no fish can live. Fish placed in water -that has been boiled die in a very few minutes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The first thing to be done in the formation of a fresh-water -aquarium is to start your plants in proper soil at -the bottom of your tank, fill the tank with water, and leave -it undisturbed until the plants begin to grow and the little -bubbles of oxygen are to be seen rising to the surface of the -water.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Choose your plants from such as you may collect from -rivers or brooks or ponds anywhere in the country. Plant -them, and then cover the surface of the soil with pebbles -and small bits of rock, or anything that is suitable and in -keeping with the rest of your arrangements. Never put -sea-shells into a fresh-water aquarium.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Now fill your tank with water poured through a siphon -or funnel, being very careful not to disturb the soil or the -roots of the plants. You should have some clean river-sand -in the bottom of your tank, and your pieces of rock should -be so arranged as to form little caves and hiding-places for -your fish. It will take perhaps two weeks to get your tank -into a proper condition for fish to live in. Every bit of -dead or decaying vegetation should be carefully removed. -Keep your tank shaded from the heat of the sun, and expose -it to the bright light only once in a while.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In order to manage your aquarium properly you will require -a few simple tools. A little hand-net that can be -bought for a few cents, or made for even less out of a bit -of wire and a small piece of mosquito-netting, is useful for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>catching the fish or shells without putting your hands into -the water. A pair of wooden forceps, like a glove-stretcher, -will be found most convenient for nipping off bits of decaying -plants or for catching objects that may have accidentally -fallen into the water. Glass tubes of various -sizes are also useful. If you want to catch any small object -in the water with the tube, place the tube in the water -with your finger over the hole in the top. Until your -finger is removed the tube will remain full of air. Place it -over the bit of refuse or whatever it is you want to catch, -remove your finger, and the water will rush in, carrying the -object with it into the tube, which should then be closed -at the upper end by placing your finger over it as before. -A glass or hard-rubber syringe is necessary with which to -aërate the water thoroughly at least once a day, and oftener -if possible. Fill the syringe, hold it high above the -tank, and then squirt the water back again.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If a green film begins to gather on the side of the tank -that is most exposed to the light, it should be cleaned away -every day, and the sides of the glass polished carefully. A -small piece of clean sponge tied on the end of a stick will -answer the purpose very well, and, if used daily, you can -keep the glass clear with very little trouble; but if the -scum is neglected and left to accumulate, you will find it -almost impossible to remove it from the glass even by hard -scouring.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is best to have only small fish in your aquarium, and -for this reason trout are not desirable. Although very -beautiful and intelligent, they grow so rapidly that they -are likely to become in a short time too unwieldy for your -<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>tank. Goldfish and minnows are very good, and the common -little sunfish or “pumpkin-seed” is excellent.</p> - -<p class='c011'>You must keep careful watch over the fish in your aquarium, -and if any one of them appears to be sick he should -be removed at once, very gently, with the hand-net, and -placed in fresh water, where he will often recover. If, -however, the little sufferer is doomed to die, it is better not -to run the risk of his doing so among his healthy companions. -It is best always to have a hospital for your sickly -pets, and as soon as one of them, whether a fish or a bird -or any animal, shows signs of ill health, he should be taken -away from the others and placed by himself.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Certain varieties of snails live well in fresh water, and -will be found useful in clearing away the green film that is -almost certain to collect on the side of the glass; but you -must be careful or they will devour your plants as well; -and if your tank is very small it is hardly worth while to -try to keep them.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Water-beetles and water-spiders also thrive well, and -their habits are most interesting to watch; but water-beetles -fly by night, and unless you are careful to cover -your tank you are likely to discover some morning that a -number of your tenants have taken French leave.</p> - -<p class='c011'>You must be careful not to overstock your aquarium, for -your fish will not thrive if they are overcrowded. Remember, -also, that heat and dust are fatal to your pets. The -water must be kept clean and cool at all times, and all -foreign matter and every particle of decaying vegetation -should be removed immediately.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To manage an aquarium successfully, no matter on how -<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>small a scale, requires a good deal of care and time, but you -will find it time well spent, and the pleasure and knowledge -the study of your pets will give you will be an ample -return for the time you spend on them.</p> - -<h4 id='section_i_7' class='c014'>A Merry-go-round</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A great deal of fun may be had with a merry-go-round in -the rear yard, and while it may not be run by an engine -or its motion accompanied by an organ, hand power will -turn the table and music can be made with an old accordion -or concertina. The only difficult thing about the whole -affair is the bevelled gear, the shaft and crank; but if an old -reaper can be found at a blacksmith-shop the difficulty is -solved, for a pair of bevelled gears are on every reaping-machine. -Of course a machine-shop or foundry would contain -gearing of various sizes, and a five and twelve inch -gear wheel will answer the purpose very well.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the practical back-yard merry-go-round shown in -Fig. 23 the revolving post is four inches square and may be -of spruce or white-wood planed on all sides and provided -with a ferrule at both ends. These may be taken from old -buggy-wheels, and will prevent the wood from splitting -when the pins are driven in. The lower cross-beams <i>a a</i> in -Fig. 24 are of spruce, eight feet long and two by three -inches. The beams <i>b b</i> are six feet and six inches long, and -on these four the cross-plates are made fast that hold the -top or deck planks. The six cross-timbers are of spruce, -one by four inches, and are from two to eight feet in length, -according to their location. The beam plan (Fig. 24) -shows quite clearly how these supporting beams are arranged. -They are held together with steel wire-nails driven -down from the upper beams diagonally into the lower ones.</p> - -<div id='i_037' class='figcenter id008'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span> -<img src='images/i_037.jpg' alt='Fig. 24, Fig. 25, Fig. 26, Fig. 27, Fig. 28' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A MERRY-GO-ROUND</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>The longest beams are securely spiked to the revolving -shaft, and in securing them in place take care to see that -they are perfectly true, so that the outer edge of the platform -will not dip and rise as it revolves. Drive a three-quarter-inch -rod in the top of the shaft and another one in -the bottom having a bevelled point as shown at Fig. 25. -At the lower end of the shaft arrange the larger gear wheel -and pin it fast so that it is fixed to the shaft and will not -move.</p> - -<p class='c011'>An iron base-plate with an upright arm welded to it will -hold the shaft and the smaller gear, which is to be arranged -the right height to lock in with the teeth of the large gear. -This plate is shown in Fig. 26; and through the four holes -at the corners long screws are passed to bolt the plate securely -to a wooden base, which last is set in the ground as -shown at A in Fig. 27. The shaft B, to the end of which -the small gear wheel is made fast, extends out beyond one -of the upright posts, and at the outer end a crank and -handle C are made fast, so that by hand-power the platform -and shaft may be revolved.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Construct an overhead framework of six by two inch -spruce beams twelve feet long, and set them in the ground -twelve feet apart, bracing the uprights well, braced at both -sides with angle beams as shown in Fig. 23. The top bar -should be well braced also with one or two angle brackets, -to prevent the frame from rocking. If the ground props are -not strong enough to properly brace the frame, attach heavy -<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>wires to the corners and carry them out in both directions, -making the ends fast to stout pieces of joist embedded in -the ground.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the middle of the top cross-bar arrange a plate of wood -eighteen inches long with a groove cut in it in which the pin -at the top of the square shaft may revolve. This plate -should be attached to the bar with lag screws, so that it can -be removed when it is necessary to unstep the shaft and -platform. The outer line of deck planking is shown in the -deck plan (Fig. 28), and inside of these boards as many others -can be laid down as desired; or the entire frame may be all -decked over, leaving a small space near the middle so as to -reach the gear and lower pin in order to grease them. Where -the shaft passes one of the uprights of the supporting -frame an iron strap will hold it in place against the wood, -and this bearing will require lubrication from time to -time.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Four stout wire guys must be drawn from the top of the -shaft and fastened at the outer edge of the platform to one -of the beam ends. The anchorage should be made with -very stout, strong screw-eyes, and to make it easier to draw -the wires taut four small turn-buckles should be purchased -at a hardware store and made fast to the lower ends of the -wires, the hook on the buckle being caught in the large -screw-eyes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Seats may be made from boxes and nailed to the deck, -and as a safeguard to prevent falling from the turn-table -ropes should be attached to the stanchion wires and to the -shaft as shown in Fig. 23.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It would be well to paint all the wood-work in order to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>give it a good appearance, and all the iron parts should be -coated with asphaltum varnish to prevent rusting.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If the gears are properly adjusted and there is no friction -at the bearings, it will not be a difficult matter to move -the table with several children occupying the seats. The -bevelled point bearing at the bottom rests in a drilled depression -in the plate, and the friction there is reduced to a -minimum, while at the top the friction will be slight if the -weight is properly distributed on the turn-table.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span> -<h3 id='chapter_ii' class='c016'>Chapter II<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>PET SHELTERS</span></h3> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>Most</span> boys are interested in pet animals, and at one time -or another possess them. Cats and dogs are domesticated -and will always stay about the house if they are -properly cared for and treated kindly, but rabbits, guinea-pigs, -squirrels, monkeys, and reptiles often forget where they -belong and will wander away and neglect to come back.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For this reason it will be necessary to build houses and -hutches for them, and so safeguard the doorways and -screenings that they cannot escape.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is not possible, of course, to give a lengthy description -of pet shelters, since there are so many different kinds in -use by boys all over the world; but the illustrations on these -pages will give some ideas for the American and English -boys to follow in making houses, hutches, and retreats to -shelter their pet animals, birds, and reptiles.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In speaking of reptiles, that does not necessarily mean -snakes, for under this classification come the horned-toads, -lizards, turtles, and many of the beautiful tropical creeping -and crawling things that in warm countries take the place -of the white mice, rabbits, guinea-pigs, and canary-birds of -our northern climes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Some boys have a natural aptitude for carpenter-work, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>but there may be ideas in these illustrations and the accompanying -descriptions that will be helpful both to them, and -to the boy who has as yet to make his first kennel or pigeon-cote.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_1' class='c014'>Martin Boxes</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In the early spring, when the birds return to the north, -the martins are among the first to appear, and long before -the swallows, whom they closely resemble, begin to nest they -have hatched their young and have taken their departure -from the southland.</p> - -<p class='c011'>They are cold-weather birds, fly rapidly, and do not stay -long in one place. They seldom build their nests in the -branches of trees, but prefer to find a hole in a tree-trunk, -and there build a nest safe from the wind and storm. The -sand-martin burrows a hole in the side of a bank, but never -builds a nest in the chimneys as do his brother and sister -swallows. The martin, when sitting on her eggs, likes a -dark and sheltered place, and for that reason she takes -kindly to a martin box in which a hole is made sufficiently -large for her to fly in and out of.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 1 a small keg is supported at the top of a post -and braced at the bottom with two bracket pieces. A hole -two inches and a half in diameter is made at each end of the -keg, through which the martins can enter, and the post to -which the keg is fastened is cut away at the upper end as -shown in Fig. 2.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In one side of the bilge of the keg a hole is cut as large as -the post is square or round, and at the other side a corresponding -hole is cut the size of the upper part of the post. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>The keg is then dropped down over the post so that the -shoulder, formed by cutting away the wood, will rest under -the upper side of the keg, in which the smaller square hole -has been cut.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If a round post is employed, the upper part should be cut -square so as to prevent the wind from blowing the keg -round the post. A cross-stick fastened at the top of the -post will form a perch on which the birds may alight.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A box with a peaked roof and three divisions, intended to -accommodate three families of the birds, is shown in Fig. 3.</p> - -<div id='i_043' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_043.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>An ordinary box may be cut and rearranged with a pitched -roof, an inner floor, and the three divisions. A small hole -is bored at each side of the box and a round stick passed -through it, so that six or eight inches of the wood will -project at either side to serve as perches. Another perch -can be arranged at the top of the box, and this bird-house -is then securely fastened to the upper end of a post and -braced there with bracket-pieces nailed both to the bottom -of the box and to the post.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The divisions in the box should be not less than six inches -square and six or eight inches high. If the box used be -square it will probably be an easier job to divide it into -four divisions for as many families. Each compartment, of -course, must be provided with its separate hole for ingress -and egress.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_2' class='c014'>Bird Shelters</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Birds do not always seek the shelter of trees in a storm; -they will often gather about the house and under barn -eaves and piazza sheds, where they are protected from the -rain and the drippings from wet leaves. They like a dry shelter, -and structures suitable for their needs can be knocked -together from very simple material. In the illustration of a -bird shelter (Fig. 4), a canvas or heavy muslin roof is supported -on two uprights, and under it five perches are arranged -from side to side, upon which a great many birds -can rest.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The uprights are one and a half by three inches, and the -strips forming the Y braces are two inches wide and seven-eighths -of an inch thick.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>The perches are three-quarter-inch dowels three feet long. -If they cannot be had at a carpenter’s shop or a hardware -store, some small scantling may be planed nearly round to -answer the same purpose. Where the perches are attached -to the uprights and Y pieces, holes are bored half-way -through the wood. Into these the ends of the perches -are driven and nailed fast.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 5 the canvas is left off from one side so that the -constructional parts of the upright, braces, and roof strips -may be seen. When the wood-work is put together the roof -should be covered with canvas, heavy unbleached muslin, -or a piece of oil-cloth, and tacked all around the edges.</p> - -<div id='i_045' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_045.jpg' alt='Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>To make the barrel-hoop shelter, shown in Fig. 6, a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>flat barrel-hoop is loosely covered with canvas or muslin -tacked all around the edge. In the top of a post a wooden -peg is driven, and over this the middle of the canvas disk -is slipped, having first made a hole in the fabric through -which the peg can pass. Four wires are attached to the -hoop at equal distances apart, and the lower ends caught -through staples or screw-eyes driven in the post a foot or -two from the top. Two or three holes should be made -through the post in which round perches may be driven.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A shelter for the side of a house or barn can be made -from a piece of board, two bracket strips, and three dowels -or round sticks to act as perches.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The board should be three feet long and fifteen inches wide. -Where it is attached to the house or barn a strip is first -attached, and the inner edge of the board is then nailed -fast to the strip. The two bracket strips that support the -roof at the outer edge should be twenty-four inches long, -one inch thick, and two inches wide. Three or four sets of -holes are bored in the strips to receive the ends of the -dowels or perches.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_3' class='c014'>Pigeon-cotes</h4> - -<p class='c015'>For the ordinary pigeons that fly about the house and -barn some open cotes are shown in Fig. 7 and Fig. 8, but -for the more valuable pigeons a large wire enclosure should -be made and the lodges placed within them, unless the birds -are very tame and will not leave the premises.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 7 A, a cote with three holes is shown that is easily -made from thin boards. It should measure thirty inches -long, nine inches wide, and twelve inches high at the back, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>while at the front the board with the holes cut in it should -be nine inches wide, with the holes five inches high and four -inches wide.</p> - -<div id='i_047' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_047.jpg' alt='Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 11' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The wood is put together as shown in Fig. 9, and the roof -boards overhang the ends and front for an inch or two. -The upper ends of the two divisions need not extend beyond -the height of the front board, and this open space will insure -good ventilation. Sticks an inch square are made fast -under the ends of the cote, and on the projecting ends a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>ledge three inches wide is fastened upon which the pigeons -may alight.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The cote shown in Fig. 7 B is made from a shoe-case -divided as shown in Fig. 10; on each floor the entrances are -alternated from front to sides. Outside each entrance a -ledge three inches wide is supported on brackets, and under -the pitched roof the ninth compartment is arranged.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The large pigeon-cote (Fig. 8) is a more pretentious affair -to make and will tax the young carpenter’s skill. This cote -can be made a very attractive pigeon shelter if it is carefully -put together and nicely painted.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is thirty-two inches long, twenty-four high to the eaves -or thirty-four to the peak, and twelve inches deep. It is -divided as shown in Fig. 11, and the ledges are supported -with brackets cut from half-inch wood with a compass saw. -From the eaves to the peak the front of the cote may be -shingled, and above the peak a perch is erected.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This cote may be attached to the side of a barn or supported -on stout uprights embedded securely in the ground.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_4' class='c014'>Dog-kennels</h4> - -<p class='c015'>When building a dog-kennel the important features to -bear in mind are to make it strong, weather-proof, and large -enough for a good-sized dog to turn around in comfortably. -A poorly built kennel soon falls apart, and if it is not weather-proof -rain will get in on the dog, and dogs do not like to -get wet while sleeping any more than boys. Moreover, -if the kennel is not large enough it is cramped and stuffy, -and, while the dog cannot say so, he resents it, and in his -<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>own dog way of reasoning feels that he is imposed upon in -being housed in such small quarters. The dimensions of a -kennel must be naturally governed by the size of the dog -who is to inhabit it; but for one of medium size, such as a -setter or collie, a kennel with a peaked roof, similar to the -one shown in Fig. 12, should be three feet long, two feet -wide, two feet high at the sides, and three feet high from -the ground to the peak or ridge-pole.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The floor frame is the first thing in constructing a kennel, -and it should be made of two by three inch spruce, thirty-four -inches long and twenty-two inches wide, with lap joints -at the corners as shown in Fig. 13. On this the flooring of -tongue and grooved boards is laid and nailed down.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From three matched boards eight inches wide make the -front and back to the kennel as shown in Fig. 14. The -lower ends of the boards are nailed to the floor frame, and -where they are sawed off to form the peak a batten is -placed at the inside and made fast with clinch nails driven -into it from the outside through the boards.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The nail heads in the front of Fig. 14 will show the location -of one batten, and the other can clearly be seen at the -inside of the back, where the clinched nail ends are shown.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Beginning at the bottom and working up, the sides are -laid on. Always place the tongue up and the groove down -when using matched boards in a horizontal position, as -otherwise the rain and moisture will work into the groove -and cause the wood to decay.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A ridge-pole is nailed between the front and back at the -peak, and to this the upper ends of the roof boards are -fastened.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>In the front a hole large enough for a dog to pass through -is cut with a compass saw, and above it, near the peak, one -large and three smaller holes are bored, as shown in Fig. 14, -and the wood cut away between the holes, as shown in -Fig. 12. This is for ventilation, for dogs as well as human -beings require plenty of fresh air. Another hole at the top -of the back board will allow free circulation of air across the -top of the kennel.</p> - -<div id='i_050' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_050.jpg' alt='Fig. 12, Fig. 13, Fig. 14, Fig. 15' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Two or three good coats of paint will finish the wood-work, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>and with the addition of a chain fastened to a staple-plate -this dog-kennel will be ready for occupancy.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This dog-hut in Fig 15 is built against the side of a house -or barn, and is forty inches long, twenty-four wide, and -twenty-eight inches high at the outer side, and thirty-six -inches high next the house or barn. The floor frame is -thirty-eight inches long, twenty-two inches wide, and made -like Fig. 13. Stakes are driven in the ground, one under -each corner, and to these the floor frame is spiked fast.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When constructed against a building a strip is fastened -to the siding of the building on which to nail the roof -boards and to the upper edges of the front, back, and side -boards battens are made fast to strengthen the hut.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The wall or side of the building may, in such a “lean-to,” -be used as a fourth side of the dog-hut. A ventilator is cut -in the upper corner of the back and at the front a swinging -door can be hung in the doorway or opening. This is a -weather-door and is made an inch narrower on each side -than the width of the doorway. It is hung on screw-eyes -and staples so that it will act as a flap and can be pushed -in or out by the dog when entering or leaving the hut. In -the winter-time, and when it is raining, this door will keep -out snow and water and also protect a dog from strong -winds.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_5' class='c014'>Guinea-pig Houses</h4> - -<p class='c015'>When making houses or huts for guinea-pigs it will be -necessary to make at least one-third of the coop dark, or -nearly so, as the little pigs like darkened places in which to -spend a portion of their time.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>The illustration of the guinea-pig house in Fig. 16 shows -how this can be done by partitioning off a portion of the house -and making ventilating holes or small windows near the top.</p> - -<div id='i_052' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_052.jpg' alt='Fig. 16, Fig. 17' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>A substantial double-decked house, similar to the one -shown in the illustration, should be thirty-six inches long, -twenty-four inches wide, twenty-four inches high to the -roof eaves and thirty-two inches to the peak. A small dry-goods -case can be adapted to this use, and the floor nailed in -midway between the top and bottom.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The darkened compartment is fourteen inches wide and -extends up on both floors. Holes three by four inches -made in the sidings will permit the pigs to have access to -the open and closed compartments. A door at one side is -made high enough to open into both upper and lower compartments; -this is swung on hinges, and for safety it may -be provided with a hasp and padlock.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>The open compartments are to be screened with square-mesh -galvanized wire cloth substantially heavy to prevent -the pigs escaping or dogs from entering and molesting them. -This wire cloth can be purchased at a hardware store and -attached to the wood with galvanized wire staples.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A guinea-pig house should not be placed on the ground, -but attached to the tops of posts from twenty-four to -thirty-six inches above the ground. Locust posts about -four inches in diameter are the best for this purpose as they -are tough and will not decay in the ground as quickly as -other wood.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The guinea-pig hut shown in Fig. 17 has but one floor and -it is much longer than the house, the floor plan being forty-two -inches long and eighteen inches wide. The ends are -fifteen inches high at the front, twelve at the back, and -eighteen at the peak. The dark compartment is fifteen -inches wide and the door at the front is six by eight inches, -hung on hinges and fastened with a hasp and padlock.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the front the roof extends over for six inches to shade -the open compartment, and at both ends and the back it -overhangs about two inches.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This hut is held up on sticks implanted in the ground, and -braced so that the wind will not blow it over.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_6' class='c014'>Chicken-coops</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In the spring-time when little chickens are hatched, and -it is not possible to let the hen wander about at random to -scratch up the garden or the flower beds, some small coops -and shelters should be constructed and placed in a corner of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>the back yard, or in some other vacant space, where the -little chicks can run without being molested by the larger -fowls, as they would be if put in the big chicken-coop or -runway.</p> - -<div id='i_054' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_054.jpg' alt='Fig. 18, Fig. 19' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The easiest coop to make is shown in the illustration of -the young chicken shelter (Fig. 18). It consists of a pitched -roof mounted on three boards six inches high. This shelter -may be three feet wide and two feet deep, and from the -ground to the peak the distance is twenty-four inches. -Slats are nailed across the front to prevent the hen from -getting out, although not so close as to prevent the chicks -from squeezing through. A coat or two of paint will improve -the appearance of this shelter, and each mother-hen -should be provided with a separate coop for her family.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the illustration of the young chicken coop (Fig. 19) a -little more care is taken with the construction, and a canopy -fly is arranged at the front to keep off rain and to shade the -interior of the coop. This coop is three feet long, two feet -wide, and thirty inches high at the front, but at the back it -need not be more than twenty-four inches high.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It may be constructed from boards with matched edges, or -perhaps from a dry-goods case, and if it is raised from the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>ground an inch or two, and a few holes bored in the bottom, -it will insure a dry floor. The cross rail at the bottom to -which the upright slats are nailed is three inches above -the floor; and if made two inches wide and the slats one inch -and a half in width, they will be heavy enough to resist dogs -and cats, if they should try to disturb mother-hen and her -brood.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Outriggers may be nailed at each end so that about fifteen -inches of the wood projects beyond the sides. A strip of -lath should be fastened between the ends, and light canvas -or muslin may then be tacked fast to the roof and to the -strip to serve as an awning.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_7' class='c014'>Rabbit-hutches</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Among animal pets rabbits seem to be general favorites -all over the country, perhaps because they are such beautiful -and harmless little creatures and so prettily marked. They -are worthy of a comfortable home, and the boy who is -fortunate enough to have some good rabbits should take -pleasure in building a substantial hutch in which they can -live and thrive.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 20 a double-floored rabbit-hutch is shown, and -if it is made large enough quite a family of rabbits can live -in it, the larger ones down-stairs and the smaller ones upstairs. -An inclined plane will make it possible for the -friends and relatives to visit each other.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This hutch should be from four to five feet long, twenty-four -inches wide, and twenty-four inches high. The second -floor is arranged so that it will be midway between the top -<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>and bottom, and at the rear an opening five inches wide -and ten inches long will receive an inclined board, across -which short sticks have been nailed to prevent the rabbits -slipping when going up or coming down the stairs.</p> - -<div id='i_056' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_056.jpg' alt='Fig. 20, Fig. 21' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>At one end a compartment is made eighteen inches wide, -and provided with a door six inches wide hung on hinges and -fastened with a hasp and lock. Openings five inches wide -and six inches high are cut in the side of this compartment, -so that the rabbits may enter it from either floor. A drop -front, on hinges, will permit the hutch to be partially closed -in very severe weather, but when it is pleasant the front -should be raised and propped up with a stick, in the ends of -which hooks are arranged that will fit into screw-eyes driven -into the lid and along the side of the compartment, as shown -in the illustration.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the end of the hutch, opposite the bottom of the stairway, -a feeding-doorway six inches square should be cut with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>a compass saw, and a door hung on hinges. This hutch -should be supported on stout sticks or posts embedded in the -ground for at least two feet, and it should be thirty to forty -inches above the ground. Across the open runs, galvanized -wire cloth, with half to three-quarter inch meshes, is to be -nailed fast with staples. With a few coats of paint on the -outside, this hutch will present a very good appearance.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rabbit-house (Fig. 21) is a large, one-story structure, -in which a family of rabbits can live very comfortably. It -is thirty-six inches long, twenty-four inches wide, eighteen -inches high at the back and twenty-two at the front. At -one side a compartment is made twelve inches wide, and at -the outer side a door seven by nine inches is hung and -fastened with a lock. This house is supported on four posts, -two or three feet above the ground, and when painted it -should look very homelike to a rabbit’s eyes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A house of this same description, but larger, may be made -for a monkey, a fox, an opossum, a raccoon, or even for bear -cubs. For the latter, bars will have to be used instead of the -wire cloth, for the bears would soon tear away the lighter -material.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_8' class='c014'>Squirrel Cages</h4> - -<p class='c015'>For squirrels, chipmunks, and white rats very good cages -can be made from wire cloth, tin boxes, and wood, and in the -illustration of a squirrel cage (Fig. 22) a simple house is -shown.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To make it, a base-board is cut twenty-eight inches long, -fifteen inches wide, and one inch and a quarter thick. Ten -inches from one end the edges of the board are sawed off so -<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>that the end will be six inches wide. Eleven inches from -the small end a square piece of wood is mounted on the base-board -to form the back to the square compartment. This -is covered with tin on the inside, so that the rodents cannot -gnaw the wood away at the edges or about the hole that -leads into the cylinder.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A wedge-shaped piece of wood, six inches broad at the -bottom and two inches at the top, is attached to the small -end of the base-board, and from the top of this piece to the -top of the back-board a connection strip is nailed fast. -From thick wire or quarter-inch iron rod a wicket is made -and driven into holes at the wide end of the board. It -should be the same size as the back-board, and is placed -there to support the wire cloth of which the cage is made.</p> - -<div id='i_058' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_058.jpg' alt='Fig. 22, Fig. 23' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Small holes are made in the base-board with an awl, so -that the ends of the wire cloth will slip into them. When -the edges of the cloth are tacked to the back-board and -wired to the wicket, the ends in the holes will remain in -place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A wire door made from the cloth can be hung on hinges, -which should be soldered to the galvanized cloth. With -<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>straight wires or wire cloth an exercising cylinder can be -made with wooden or tin ends. It is supported between the -back of the cage and the wedge-shaped upright. Tacks -driven around the hole that leads into the cylinder will prevent -the occupants from gnawing away the edges of the -wood-work.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The squirrel house (Fig. 23) is constructed in the same -manner as the cage, but it has the advantage of a covered -shelter at one end of the base-board. This is made from -a tin cracker-box with the lid removed, and inverted so the -bottom acts as the roof. In one side an oval opening is cut -and a wire screen is fastened to it at the inside.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The wire cylinder is seven inches in diameter and twelve -inches long, quite large enough for two squirrels to run a -great race at the same time. A piece of hair felt, an old -woollen cloth, or some curled hair will be comfortable for -the squirrels to lie on in the enclosed cage.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ii_9' class='c014'>Reptile Pens</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In some parts of the country pets are made of reptiles, -and very interesting and tame ones are found among the -lizard family.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When making a reptile pen, care should be taken to get -the joints tight and not have any small openings or cracks -between boards, for snakes can get through a very small -space, often much smaller than you would think it possible, -judging from the size of their bodies.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 24, the design for a very substantial reptile pen -is shown, and instead of fine wire screening, two heavy -<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>plates of glass may be used at the front of each compartment. -This is a double pen, and one side can be used for snakes, -while the other may harbor some lizards or small land-turtles.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This pen is forty-eight inches long, twenty-four deep, and -twenty-six high. The bottom rail at the front is four inches -wide, and the top and upright ones are two inches wide.</p> - -<div id='i_060' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_060.jpg' alt='Fig. 24, Fig. 25' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The wood from which the pen is made should be tongue-and-grooved, -and planed on both sides. It may be from -<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>three-quarters to one inch and a quarter thick, and narrow -boards are preferable to wide ones.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the lizard compartment an upper floor is fastened in, -having an opening at one side where an inclined board, with -cross sticks attached, is arranged so that the animals may -climb up and down.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The snake pen should have a portion of a small tree fastened -at top and bottom, on which the reptiles may climb -and coil. The more short branches it has, the better, for it -will then give the snakes a more satisfactory perch to move -about on. At the bottom of each end a small trap doorway -four inches high and six inches long is cut, and protected by -a stout wire-cloth door, hinged and locked. These trap-doors -are for the purpose of removing refuse or for feeding -the reptiles; or a smaller opening at the back, near the top, -and about two inches in diameter, can be used as a food -door.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A ventilator is cut in the roof twelve inches long and six -inches wide, so that each compartment gets the advantage -of an opening about six inches square. Over this a roof is -made three inches above the main roof, and with stout wire -cloth the opening is covered first at the under side. Then -the strip of wire cloth, four inches wide, is tacked around the -inside of the opening and to a board the same size as the -hole, or six by twelve inches, attached to the under side of -the cap.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This arrangement is more clearly shown in Fig. 25, which -is a sectional view, A being the cap, B the board to which -the upper edge of the wire cloth is attached, C the wire -cloth, and D the main roof to the pen. The line E represents -<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>the wire cloth tacked to the under side of the opening, to -prevent the reptiles crawling up and over the partition.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the lower end of the partition an opening four inches -square may be made and fitted with a wire-netting door that -can be raised and lowered by a rod that extends through the -cap of the ventilator. One or two staples driven over the -rod at the inside of the reptile pen will prevent the rod from -bending, and the wire door should slide on runners provided -with a rabbet at the inside, so that it cannot be dislodged.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With this construction, the reptiles may be allowed to -mingle if they are peaceable, but if the snakes molest the -small lizards they must be driven into their own side and the -trap-door closed. With the outer doors at the bottom and -the ventilator at the top, a free circulation of air can be had; -and if the floor is kept well sanded and clean, this reptile pen -will make a comfortable home for a collection of such pets.</p> - -<div id='i_062' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_062.jpg' alt='Fig. 26' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The lizard run shown in Fig. 26 is made from a wooden -<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>shoe-case open at the front, and on top of which a smaller -box is mounted and connected with the lower one by means -of an inclined board and an opening, through which the -lizards can crawl. A ventilator is cut in the upper box and -covered with wire netting; and in the lower box, at one end, -a doorway is made, four by six inches, and protected by a -heavy wire screen door on hinges.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A raised platform and ladder is made at one end of the -large box, and in the open space one or two branches should -be made fast on which the lizards can climb.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The top of the box should be enclosed with wire netting, -as shown in the illustration. A doorway three inches square -cut in the side of the upper box will allow access to this -roof-garden.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A few coats of dark-green paint will finish these reptile -pens on the outside, and they should be enamelled cream -color, buff, or light green on the inside, so that the reptiles -may be seen against the light background.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span> -<h3 id='chapter_iii' class='c016'>Chapter III<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>SUMMER-HOUSES AND PERGOLAS</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_iii_1' class='c014'>A Simple Summer-house</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_2_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>For</span> the back yard, or in the fields and woods near the -house, a summer-house or pergola will be found a comfortable -nook in which to spend many pleasant hours.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A simple summer-house is shown in the illustration, -Fig. 1. This is made of four posts, has a shingled roof, and -is provided with seats on three sides. Obtain four spruce -posts four inches square, or four tree-trunks from four to six -inches in diameter. Plant them in the ground, forming a -square of six feet. The posts should be embedded for at -least two feet, and, to insure them from decaying too quickly, -tar or pitch the bottoms, or give them two or three good -coats of asphaltum varnish. The posts should stand seven -feet above ground. Across the tops of the posts nail two-by-four-inch -joist, with lap joints as shown at A in Fig. -2. With four more pieces of joist form the roof rafters, -cutting a notch in each joist where it fits over the corners -at the head of the posts. At the peak, the joist are bevelled -where they meet.</p> - -<div id='i_065' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_065.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Join two of the pieces at first; then lap the remaining two -on both sides of them, nailing all the ends securely with steel -wire nails. Put one middle rafter in on each side between -<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>eaves to the roof. It would not look well to have to roof -the corner ones; then nail shingle lath or scantling on the -four sides to receive the shingles. The rafters should overhang -the top frame about twelve inches, so as to form the -stop on a line with the posts. Begin at the bottom and at -the middle of each side to shingle the roof, working out to -the corners and up through the middle to the peak. To -prevent the roof leaking at the corners, bevel the shingles at -one side, then lap those on the other side over them and bevel -the edges. Some builders lay a strip of tin flashing over the -edges as well as in the valleys of a roof to insure a perfectly -water-tight joint. Use galvanized nails. To hide the rough -rafters and shingle lath, the inside of the roof may be lined -with narrow, matched boards; then the wood-work may be -given a coat or two of paint in some desirable color.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iii_2' class='c014'>A Back-yard Pergola</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A back-yard pergola is constructed from two upright posts -four inches square, a cross beam two by six inches, and eight -<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>joists laid across from the post bar to the top of the back -fence. This style of pergola is particularly adapted to city -yards and those surrounded by a board fence. In the event -of there being no fence, the ends of the joist or roofing beams -may bear on a two-by-six-inch cross bar that rests on two -more posts corresponding with the front ones.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The posts are four inches square, of spruce or any other -available wood, and are planed on all four sides. They are -embedded in the ground for about two feet, and, to prevent -them from sinking or shifting, place a large, flat stone in the -hole on which the post will rest, and around it pack earth -and stones instead of earth only. A lap cut in the front top -end of the post will admit the two-by-six-inch cross beam. -The posts are seven feet apart, and the cross beam ten feet -long, with the ends cut as shown in Fig. 3 on page 56. The -front end of each joist is rounded under as shown, and to -make a more secure anchorage a notch two inches long and -an inch deep may be cut at the under side of each joist, so -that they will fit down over the upper edge of the cross -beam. Make all the joints and laps fast with steel wire -nails; then give the wood-work a few coats of paint.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Seats may be built in on two sides and supported with -under braces or brackets to prop up the front edge, and a -back-board may be nailed fast to the posts and fence.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iii_3' class='c014'>A Toadstool Tree Canopy</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Where there is a large tree on the place or near the house, -a toadstool canopy (Fig. 4) may be constructed above a comfortable -seat. The framing of the canopy is shown in Fig. 5, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>where the arrangement of corner rafters and braces can -be clearly seen. The tree end of each rafter is bevelled (or -cut on a slant) and nailed fast with steel wire nails. The -under braces are keyed to the tree by cutting out a wedge of -the bark, so that the lower end or point of the bracket will -fit into it. These ends are to be well nailed to the tree-trunk, -as they are the main props to hold up the roof. Between -the corner rafters let one rafter in on each side; then nail -shingle lath on the top of the rafters, and to these the shingles -are fastened.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A seat eighteen inches wide may be built about the foot -of the trunk and supported by two-by-three-inch joist let -into the ground a foot or eighteen inches. Instead of shingling -this roof, it may be thatched with salt hay arranged -in flat tufts and nailed onto the lath. Begin at the lower -edge to do this and thatch one line first; then begin on the -end of the line above it and arrange the tufts closely side -by side, and nail them fast. The last line at the top should -have tar paper under it, closely fitted, and nailed to the tree -trunk with copper tacks and painted. This will deflect the -water and prevent it from running down the trunk and -wetting the seat.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iii_4' class='c014'>A Rustic Pergola</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A simple but effective and useful rustic pergola is shown -in Fig. 6. All the posts, cross-pieces, braces, and stringers -at the top are of undressed wood, having the bark on. The -corner posts are from four to six inches in diameter, and -are embedded two feet in the ground. They are seven feet -above the ground, and on top of two sets cross-stringers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>are made fast and braced with angle brackets. A sharp -hatchet, a saw, and a hammer will be the only tools required -for this work; and where an angle piece is attached to a post, -the bark and wood should be cut away on the post, so that -the bevelled edge of the bracket will lie snugly against it. -It should then be nailed fast with long steel wire nails. This -pergola can be made of almost any size, but for one of -moderate proportions it should measure eight feet square -and seven feet high. Seats of smooth boards may be arranged -on three sides between posts, and wires may be run -up and down and crosswise, on which climbing vines may -be supported.</p> - -<div id='i_068' class='figcenter id010'> -<img src='images/i_068.jpg' alt='Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_iii_5' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>A Circular Pergola</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A circular pergola will present a pleasing appearance in -any yard. It is made from six rustic posts, six supporting -beams, and eleven top rafters, as shown in Fig. 7.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Tree-trunks of the proper size and length may be cut in -the woods, or some locust posts can be purchased at a -lumber-yard. The bark is to be left on, and the posts are -to be planted two feet in the ground in a circle eight feet -in diameter. The tops of the posts should be sawed off -so that they are all an equal distance from the ground. On -top of them nail six pieces of joist, two by four inches, with -the narrower side resting on the posts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The joist must be bevelled or mitred so that they will fit -snugly at the posts. Spike them fast to each other and to -the posts with large steel wire nails. The top rafters should -be of two-by-three or two-by-four inch spruce, planed or left -rough, and arranged equal distances apart, so that they will -form a large circle on the supporting beams. These are to -be nailed fast and painted if desired. Vines may be planted -close to the posts, so that as they grow the thick mass of -foliage will make a shady top to the pergola.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If desired, a few seats may be arranged between the posts -<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>or columns, but portable seats would be more in keeping -with this style of pergola.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iii_6' class='c014'>A Summer Shelter</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A design for a comfortable summer-house is shown in -Fig. 8. The posts are set on an oblong, seven feet wide -and twelve feet long. Seven or eight inch posts are planted -in the ground, and the top rails are arranged as shown in -Fig. 2. The rails can be of two-by-four-inch joist, and -should be cut and neatly lapped at the ends, as shown at A -in Fig. 2. A ridge-pole forms the centre support to this -roof, and from it the rafters are run down to the top rails. -Over these the shingle lath are nailed, and then the thatching -of salt hay or shingles may be laid on. A wind-speeder -and a weather-vane may be arranged at either end of the -roof, as shown in the drawing, and seats may be built in -between the end posts, with a supporting rib at the middle -and braces under the seats. There is room enough under -this roof to swing a hammock.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span> -<h3 id='chapter_iv' class='c016'>Chapter IV<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>WEATHER-VANES AND WINDMILLS</span></h3> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_2_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>From</span> the time of the earliest habitation of the earth, -nature’s great forces, wind and water, have been employed -to furnish power for man’s uses. Wind engines and -mills for motive power have become almost obsolete in and -about the great cities, as they are so cumbersome and uncertain, -but in the country they are still used to a great -extent for pumping water, milling, and operating light -machinery.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Windmills have been made in a number of shapes by the -people of different nations, and some of them are very -picturesque, especially the Dutch wheels and those made -in the eastern part of the United States a century or more -ago, many of which are still working.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Windmills will never go out of use entirely, no matter -what cheap motive power will eventually run the world; -for when they are once set up properly they cost nothing to -operate, and if a wheel is well made it will last for years -with but trifling cost for repairs.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Windmills, weather-vanes, pinion-wheels, and wind toys -of all descriptions have been made by boys in every age, -and each generation goes on to invent or think of something -new for the same old wind to play with that has toyed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>with the world’s wheels for centuries. The illustrations -and descriptions on this and the following pages will be -found helpful in the construction of wind machinery that -shall be both novel and practicable.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_1' class='c014'>A Pinion-wheel Weather-vane</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The easiest sort of a pinion-wheel and weather-vane to -construct is shown in Fig. 1. It consists of a piece of stout -tin or sheet-iron, a wooden shaft twenty inches long, and a -fan-tail twelve inches long and seven inches wide at the rear -end.</p> - -<div id='i_072' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_072.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Punch a small hole in the centre of a sheet of tin or iron -not less than ten inches square, and with a lead-pencil -compass draw a circle ten inches in diameter. Half an inch -inside of this draw another one nine inches in diameter, as -<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>indicated by the light lines in Fig. 2. One inch from the -centre draw a third circle making it two inches in diameter; -then divide the disk into eight equal parts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With a cold chisel cut on the lines, as indicated in Fig. 2, -and bend the metal ears as shown in drawing No. 1, so that -the corners will set back an inch from the rim. With a -stout pair of shears cut around the outside line and free -the wheel from the sheet of metal.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the front of the wheel fasten a spool with steel wire -nails driven through the tin to act as a hub. Then give them -both a coat or two of paint.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Make a shaft from hard wood an inch square, and cut -it in from one end about ten inches, as shown in Fig. 3. -At the other end bind the wood for an inch or two with -linen line or fine wire to prevent its splitting, and bore a -hole in the end with an awl. Through the spool and disk, -and into the hole in the shaft, drive a flat-headed steel wire -nail or a screw, three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, to -act as the pinion on which the wheel may revolve.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From light wood, three-eighths of an inch in thickness, -cut a fan-tail seven inches wide at one end and two at the -other, and, having passed it through the cut in the shaft, -make it fast with small nails or screws.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Balance the shaft and wheel on your finger to determine -where to pierce the hole through which the upright shaft on -the pole should pass; then bore it out with bit and brace so -that the shaft will fit snug but not tight.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To the top of the shaft, over the hole, attach another -spool, so as to form a longer bearing; or a strap of metal may -be tacked so that it will bridge up over the hole about two -<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>inches. In this bridge a corresponding hole may be cut, -through which the vertical shaft or pin will pass. This is to -hold the vane steady on the long pin of quarter-inch round -iron driven into the top of the pole, and prevent it from -dipping forward or backward.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Place this vane on a shed, the end of a barn roof, or on a -high pole where the wind has free access to it.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_2' class='c014'>A Wind-speeder</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Wind-speeders may be constructed of metal or partly of -wood, but one that can easily be made by a boy consists -of two sticks, four ordinary tin funnels having their ends -stopped up with a plug of wood, and a pole, into the end of -which a long iron pin is driven and on which the hub revolves. -Fig. 4.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two hard-wood sticks thirty inches long and three-quarters -of an inch square are cut at the middle so that they -will lap, and with steel nails they are attached to a hub -three-quarters of an inch thick and three inches in diameter, -in the centre of which a quarter-inch hole is bored. The -end of each stick or arm is cut in to receive the funnels, and -they are held in place by straps of tin passed around each -neck and tacked fast to the top and bottom of the cross -sticks.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With a sharp-pointed awl or punch a small hole is made -through the strap and neck, and a long, slim steel nail is -driven through both into the end of the sticks to give the -funnels an additional purchase.</p> - -<div id='i_075' class='figcenter id011'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span> -<img src='images/i_075.jpg' alt='Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>To reduce the friction and to prevent the wood from -wearing away at the under side of the hub, a large flat -washer should be attached to the wood with copper tacks -driven closely all around the outer edge. Before the speeder -is slipped over the upright pin, a short piece of small gas-pipe -or tubing should be placed over it so it will rest between -the hub and the top of the pole. Two coats of white -<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>or light-colored paint will improve the appearance of this -speeder.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_3' class='c014'>The Arrow Weather-vane</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Of all the weather-vanes that have ever been made, the -balanced arrow is undoubtedly the oldest and most popular; -it is the universal type of its class, and, from the simple arrow -that a boy can whittle from a shingle to the beautifully -gilded vane that crowns the pinnacle of some great building, -it is everywhere in evidence. Fig. 5.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The arrow-vane can be made any length to suit the -height at which it may be placed, but for the house, barn, -flag-pole, or tower not more than fifty or sixty feet high, it -should be from twenty-four to thirty-six inches long, with -the blade from five to six inches in width.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The most substantial vane is made in three pieces, the -point, shaft, and blade. The shaft is made from hard wood, -three-quarters of an inch square, in the ends of which cuts -are made to receive a tin or sheet-metal point and blade. -These are held in place with steel nails driven through the -wood and clinched on the opposite side. The arrow is balanced -and a hole is then made in the shaft through which -the upright pin or rod will pass.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A ferule or ring is driven on the upright rod to hold the -arrow in the proper place, and below it two rods should be -arranged at right angles, at the ends of which the letters -N, E, S, W are soldered. These rods may be of brass or -wood, and if the wood is used it should be of hickory or -locust, half an inch square or round, and slit at the ends to -receive the letters of tin or sheet metal. These latter are -<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>held in place with slim steel wire nails driven through the -wood and metal.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the top of a flag-pole these arms should be mounted -above a gilded ball, and they should be, if of brass or copper, -held securely in place with wire or solder. If they are of -iron, it would be well to have a blacksmith weld them, so -that they will be rigid and stay in place.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_4' class='c014'>Wooden Vanes</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In Fig. 6 some suggestions for wooden vanes are shown -that can be followed with the scroll saw and jackknife or a -compass saw and carving chisels. These vanes can be made -in almost any size that will not be out of proportion to the -building or pole they are to be mounted on.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The fish is cut from wood five-eighths of an inch thick, and -all around the edges the wood is bevelled so as to give the -fish a rounded effect. The fish is balanced on the edge of a -piece of wood to determine where the rod will pass through -it; then with a quarter-inch bit the hole is carefully bored -through from top to bottom. The compass-point letters -can be made from sheet tin and supported on two cross -sticks and a stout wire hoop from twelve to fifteen inches -in diameter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The lady with the parasol is cut from wood half an inch in -thickness. She is fifteen inches high and twelve inches wide -across the bottom of the skirt. From the shoes to the hat, -a quarter-inch hole is bored entirely through the body, but -if this be found too difficult, a staple at the top and bottom -will answer instead. Through these staples the rod will pass.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>The squirrel is made in the same manner as the lady, and -either balanced on the rod which passes through the body -or by means of staples driven at one side. A ring and -washer should be provided on the rod for the bottom of the -vane to rest on, as there would be too much friction if the -vane rested on the top end of the pole into which the rod is -driven.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bird vane is cut out and balanced the same as the -fish, and the modelling may be carved in the wood or painted, -to give shape and character to the vane. Otherwise it -would be but a blank piece of thin board cut in the shape -of the outline.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In all of these vanes it is necessary, of course, to have the -greatest overhang on the side opposite to that facing the -wind, otherwise they would not indicate properly.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_5' class='c014'>A Wind-pennant</h4> - -<p class='c015'>An excellent and reliable wind indicator is shown in Fig. -7, the illustration of the wind-pennant. It consists of a -metal hoop on which a funnel-shaped silk or cotton fabric -pennant is sewed fast, and when this latter is filled by a -breeze it stands out, as the illustration shows.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A pennant fifteen inches long should have a hoop five -inches in diameter, and it can be made either from wire -rings bent as shown in Fig. 8 A, or from sheet metal, as -shown at Fig. 8 B.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The sheet metal should be perforated with small holes all -around one edge to pass the thread through, when sewing -the fabric fast, and the edges should be smoothed so as not -<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>to cut the threads. If the hoop is made of wire, a ring -should be formed at top and bottom for the upright rod to -pass through; but if it is of sheet metal a hole at the top and -bottom will admit the rod.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This pennant is very useful at the mast-head of a boat, -and is much more satisfactory to watch than the perpetually -bobbing flat pennant, as it does not break or fall down unless -it is calm, and only shifts from side to side as the wind -blows it.</p> - -<p class='c011'>On a flag-pole or staff above the pennant the compass -points are arranged, and if these are made from copper or -brass, the letters may be soldered fast to the ends of the -arms. Where the arms cross, they are to be flattened as -shown in Fig. 9 A, and lapped together, as shown in Fig. 9 B. -After the hole is bored they should be bound to the upright -rod with copper wire and soldered so they will remain in a -fixed position that the wind cannot alter. Fig. 9 C.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Sticks of hard wood may be substituted for the metal -arms, and the sheet-metal letters let into saw cuts made at -the outer ends.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_6' class='c014'>A Basket-ball Vane</h4> - -<p class='c015'>An odd wind indicator is shown in Fig. 10, illustrating a -ball vane in a basket. It consists of a flat basket, with a -rim six inches high, made of wire cloth with square meshes; -inside of this a silk or cotton covered ball of wire is placed -and blown by the wind from one side to the other of the -basket. Of course, the direction the wind is coming from -is opposite to that taken by the ball.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The basket should be twenty-four inches in diameter, six -<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>inches high, and supported at the top of a pole by wires attached -from the upper and lower edge of the outer rim, and -leading up and down to the pole, the ends being made fast -to staples or screw-eyes.</p> - -<div id='i_080' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_080.jpg' alt='Fig. 10, Fig. 11, Fig. 12, Fig. 13' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The ball, which is made of wire hoops and fastened together -with fine wires, should be from four to six inches in -diameter. It is covered with silk or thin muslin sewed on -in the same manner in which a baseball is covered with -leather. The framework must be of light spring brass or -copper wire, and where the hoops cross it would be well to -touch the unions with solder to insure a firm joint and make -the ball rigid.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>If the ball should blow out of the basket at any time, it -may be necessary to lace wires across the outer rim at the -top, so as to form a confining net-work.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Above the basket the compass points can be arranged on -wood or metal arms, and when complete and mounted this -weather-vane will present a most unique appearance.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_7' class='c014'>A Merry-go-round</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A merry-go-round like the one shown in Fig. 11 is an interesting -wind toy and pleasing to watch, as the boats keep -sailing round and round. It is made from a child’s hoople -properly braced with cross sticks and mounted on a hub. -Four flat-boats are made and attached to the outer edge of -the frame. When rigged with sails and placed at the top -of a post, on a rod, the boats will keep up a continual sailing -so long as there is any breeze. A hoople three feet in -diameter is best for this purpose, as it gives more space between -the boats.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Double sets of braces or cross strips are arranged inside -the hoople, and, where they meet at the middle, laps are -cut in the sticks so that they will fit flush, as shown in -Fig. 12.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The sticks are placed seven inches apart, and are five-eighths -of an inch square; under the lap joints a plate of -wood nine inches square is attached by means of screws or -steel wire nails, to strengthen the unions of the cross sticks -as well as to make a platform, at the under side of which -the hub is arranged. A plan of the hoople, the cross sticks, -and the location of one boat is shown in Fig. 13.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>The boats are placed so that the outer edges of the bottoms -rest on the top of the hoople. The inner edges rest on -two of the cross sticks, where they are securely attached -with long, slim screws passed up through the sticks and -hoople and into the bottoms of the boats.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A block of wood four or five inches square and six inches -long is to be shaved down at one end so that it is round -and about one inch and a half in diameter. This is attached -to the under side of the plate, at the middle of the hoople -frame, so that the small end projects down; and through it -a half-inch hole is bored.</p> - -<p class='c011'>An iron pin half an inch in thickness and eighteen inches -long is to be driven into the upper end of a post over which -the hub and hoople frame will fit. The upper end of the -iron pin is threaded and provided with two nuts. One of -these should be screwed down tight on the other with a -washer between to act as a lock-nut, so that the revolution -of the merry-go-round will not tighten or loosen them when -once adjusted.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The boats are ten inches long and three inches wide at the -middle, but they taper fore and aft, as shown in Fig. 13 A. -They are cut from pine or white-wood two inches thick, and -painted in gay colors. The masts are fifteen inches high, and -the sails are provided with booms, gaffs, and jib-booms, also -with rings which hold the sails close to the masts. The -rigging is of copper wire, as the constant motion would -soon wear out string or line and the sails would fly -loose.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Each boat must be in good trim to keep the motion uniform, -and if the sails wear out too soon, tin ones should be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>made or the muslin ones may be given a coat or two of white -paint. Pennants at the tops of the masts will add to the -effect.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_8' class='c014'>A Wind Turbine</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The wind turbine shown in Fig. 14, on the following page, -is made of two hooples about thirty inches in diameter, four -cross sticks, two wire hoops, and eight V-shaped tin blades.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The cross sticks, thirty inches long, are cut and lapped -at the middle and attached to the edge of each hoop with -screws or nails. The wire hoops are twenty-two inches in -diameter, and are fastened to the cross sticks with staples. -The plan of one hoople and the cross sticks, the wire hoop -and the location of the blades, is shown in Fig. 15.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The outer corners of each blade are tacked fast to both -the upper and lower hoople, while the inner corners are -wired fast to the stout wire hoop. The blades are made -from tin or sheet iron twelve inches long and six inches wide, -and, when bent in the shape of a V, the width across the -open end should be four inches.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The blades are depended upon to hold the upper and lower -frames in place, and when the turbine is on the top of a post -with a rod running through the middle of the cross sticks, -around which it revolves, the wind will keep it spinning at a -high speed.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Power can be developed with this turbine, but only a very -small percentage as compared with a windmill the entire -surface of which is continually exposed to the breeze. In -the turbine only two or three of the blades are effective at -any one time.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_9' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>A Barrel-hoop Pinion-wheel</h4> - -<p class='c015'>From a flat hoop, a few pieces of tin or sheet iron, and some -thin wood, a barrel-hoop pinion-wheel may be made similar -to the one shown in Fig. 16.</p> - -<div id='i_084' class='figcenter id012'> -<img src='images/i_084.jpg' alt='Fig. 14, Fig. 15, Fig. 16, Fig. 17' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The barrel-hoop will measure about twenty-one inches in -diameter, and the hub should be made five inches in diameter, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>two inches thick, and cut in, as shown in Fig. 17 A, with -nine places to receive the small ends of the metal blades. -The hub revolves on a pin which is driven into a block of -wood three inches square, as shown at Fig. 17 B. A hole is -made in the block from top to bottom, through which a half-inch -rod will pass. The rails that support the tail are let -into each side of the block and are securely fastened with -screws, as shown also at Fig. 17 B.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The fan-tails are twenty-four inches long, one inch and a -half wide, and half an inch thick, made of ash or hickory -that will bend easily, so as to be drawn in against the blades -forming the tail.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The tin blades are cut five inches wide at one end and one -inch and a half at the other, and fastened to both the hoop -and hub with tacks, as shown in the illustration.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The blades forming the fan are of half-inch wood, one -V-shaped piece and two end slats cut as shown in the illustration. -They are all held in position by the two rails that -extend back from the pinion block and two that are set at -right angles to them, and which hold the upper and lower -edge blades.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This wheel may be placed at the top of a post two or three -inches square or round, in which a half-inch iron rod or long -pin has been driven, leaving about six or eight inches of it -projecting above the top of the post. On this the block -turns as the wind acts on the fan-tail.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_10' class='c014'>A Pumping Windmill</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A simple wheel, with spokes and sails, that is commonly -employed on canal-boats and barges, and in a small way for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>raising water in a suction-pump, is shown in the illustration -of a pumping windmill. Fig. 18.</p> - -<div id='i_086' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_086.jpg' alt='Fig. 18' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>It consists of a hub, six spokes, a fan-tail, and a trunk or -upright to which the wheel is attached. The hub is a hexagon -of six inches and six inches long, so that one spoke -can be driven into a hole made in each side, as shown in -Fig. 19. The spokes are three feet long, three by one inch -and a half at the hub end, and one by one inch and a half at -the outer end. They are driven snugly into holes in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>hub three inches long and one inch and a half wide, and -pinned to hold them in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The hub should be made of hard wood, and it would be -well to have a blacksmith put a thin iron band around each -end to prevent it from splitting. The holes may be cut -with a mortise chisel and mallet, and care must be taken -to shape them evenly, so that the spokes will line properly.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Triangular pieces of twilled muslin sheeting are tacked -to the face of each spoke, and the loose corner of each is -caught to the next spoke end with a rope and snap. This -makes an outlet between the leech and spoke of each space -between spokes for the wind to pass through, thereby causing -the wheel to revolve.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The wheel is held in place to the head of the supporting -post by a shaft which passes through the hub and is bolted -fast at the front of it with a nut. A blacksmith will make -this shaft, as it is somewhat beyond a boy’s ability unless he -has had some experience in blacksmithing. It should be -shaped as shown in Fig. 20.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The shaft is an inch square where it passes through the -hub, and at the front end it is threaded and provided with -a nut and washer. At the end of the square part, A, where -the rear of the hub will stop, a shoulder, B, should be welded -on to hold the hub in the proper place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>An inch beyond this square shoulder, another one, C, is -welded on the shaft, which for the balance of its length is -three-quarters of an inch in diameter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Just beyond the shoulder or collar, C, the crank is formed, -two inches wide and three inches out from the shaft. Beyond -<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>the crank another collar, C C, is welded on, and beyond -this the shaft should measure six inches in length.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The total length of the shaft is fifteen inches, and all the -collars and smooth surfaces should be dressed down with a -file and then painted. The head to which the fan-tail is attached -is made of two blocks, cut as shown in Fig. 21, and -fastened five inches apart on the lower rails that support -the long rails to which, in turn, the tail is attached.</p> - -<div id='i_088' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_088.jpg' alt='Fig. 19, Fig. 20, Fig. 21, Fig. 22, Fig. 23' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The upper ends of the blocks are cut out so as to admit -the shaft. The collars, C, and C C, are at the inside of the -blocks. To hold the shaft in place, straps of iron are screwed -fast over the top of each block.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This head rests on the top of a trunk or hollow square -<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>post, through which the rod passes that connects the crank -with the piston-rod of a pump. This trunk is of three-quarter-inch -wood and seven inches square, as shown in -Fig. 22 A; and at the top of it a flat iron collar, B, is screwed -fast.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To hold the head on and keep it in the proper place, four -iron cleats (Fig. 22 C) are screwed fast to the under corners -of the head to grip the projecting edge of the collar. This -arrangement will hold the head stiff, but will allow it to -move about as impelled by the wind acting on the tail.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A little grease or vaseline should be placed on top of the -collar, so that the head will move on it easily. The top of -the connection rod should be attached to the crank, as -shown in Fig. 22 D, where a strap of iron passes over the -crank and is bolted to the top of the hard-wood rod.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The tail is attached to the head as shown in Fig. 23, -which is a rear view of the head block and a portion of the -forward part of the tail.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The tail is thirty-three inches long and twenty-four inches -wide at the rear end, and is made of boards three-quarters -of an inch in thickness. If the mill is to be placed over a -pump, a platform should be erected to which the trunk may -be braced with props, as shown in the illustration, and on -which the lower end of the trunk may rest.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Guy rods or wires can also be carried from the upper part -of the trunk down to pegs driven in the ground, which will -lend additional support and steadiness to the upright shaft. -To start the wheel, snap the ends of the sheets to the spoke -ends; to stop it, unsnap the ends and furl the sails around -the spokes, and tie them securely with a cotton cord.</p> - -<h4 id='section_iv_11' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>A Windmill and Tower</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Windmills, of course, can be put to many different uses -and are generally of sufficient size to develop a considerable -amount of power. Fig. 24 shows a windmill and tower that -any smart boy can make of wood, an old buggy wheel, and a -few iron fittings that a blacksmith will make at a nominal cost.</p> - -<div id='i_090' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_090.jpg' alt='Fig. 24, Fig. 25, Fig. 26' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The tower is the first thing to make, and it should be constructed -of four spruce sticks sixteen feet long and four inches -square, thirty inches square at the top and seventy-two -inches square at the base.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>The deck is thirty-six inches square, and projects two inches -over the top rails all around. The rails and cross braces are -of spruce or pine strips four inches wide and seven-eighths -of an inch thick, and are attached to the corner posts with -steel wire nails. The corner posts are embedded two feet in -the ground, leaving fourteen feet of tower above the surface. -The rail at the bottom, attached to the four posts, is three -feet above the ground, and, midway between this and the -top rail under the deck, the middle rail is run around the -posts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The cross braces are bevelled at the ends, so that they will -fit snugly against the corner posts and in behind the rails -where they are securely nailed to both posts and rails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>One of the posts with its binding of rails and cross brace -is shown in Fig. 25, and this clearly illustrates how the -union is made.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The posts, rails, and braces are all to be planed, so that -they will present a good appearance when painted; and -at one side of the tower a ladder can be made of scantling, -and the lower end of it attached to a rail nailed to the -corner posts a few inches above the ground.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Across two of the rails half-way up the tower a board is -nailed, to which the lower end of a trunk is made fast, if a -wheel similar to the pumping-mill is to be used. But if a -wooden mill is desired, it can be constructed from a buggy-wheel -and six blades of wood, to appear as shown in the -illustration.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At a wagon-shop an old wheel can be had for little or -nothing, and with a little work it may be converted into the -frame of a windmill.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>Each spoke is to be cut at an angle on one side so that -the blades, when attached to them, will have the necessary -pitch to make the wind act on them. This can be seen in -Fig. 26, which is an edge view of the wheel showing a top, -bottom, and middle blade.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The blades are eighteen inches long, twelve inches wide -at the outer end, and six inches in width next the hub. -They are three-quarters of an inch thick, and are attached to -the spokes with screws. If it is found necessary, a wire can -be run from the outer end of each blade to the end of the -next spoke, to steady the blades, as shown in the illustration.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The crank and shaft can be arranged as described for the -pumping-mill, and a fan-tail to keep the wheel up into the -wind is made in proportion to the size of the mill.</p> - -<p class='c011'>All the wood-work should be painted to give it a good -appearance. A mill of this size will develop at least quarter -of a horse-power in a fifteen-mile breeze.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span> -<h3 id='chapter_v' class='c016'>Chapter V<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>AËRIAL TOYS</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_v_1' class='c014'>The Elastic Flying-machine</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_2_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>To</span> have a flying-machine is the dream of every boy. -To build a large one is exceedingly difficult, but a -small one run by a rubber band can be easily constructed. -You will not be able to fly up to the roofs of houses and -spires of churches, but it will furnish you much amusement, -without the danger of a broken neck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>I will tell you exactly how I constructed one of these -machines, and then you can make one for yourself. The -backbone was a knitting-needle. The wings, or more -properly aëroplanes, were light bamboo strips (taken from -a Japanese fan) and covered with the Japanese paper which -is used for napkins. (Fig. 1.)</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 2 shows the backbone and its parts. Cut from thin -brass or copper a piece shaped like No. 1, and bend the top -over, as shown at No. 2. Brass suitable for this may be -bought at any hardware-store, or an old article made of -proper metal may be cut up. The shell of a metallic cartridge -is excellent. The brass should be as thin as possible, -to be light, and so that it may be cut with an old pair of -shears and bent easily. First cut the piece out roughly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>with the shears, and then trim it into shape with a small -file. Scrape that part of the metal bright and clean which -will form the inside of the roll, and then bend it around the -needle so that it will fit nicely and snugly.</p> - -<div id='i_094' class='figcenter id013'> -<img src='images/i_094.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>This must be fastened to the forward end of the backbone. -The best and lightest way is to braze it, as the tinsmiths -<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>call it. File the polish from the end of the needle, -and wet it with soldering fluid, which may be bought at a -tinner’s, or made by adding zinc to muriatic acid until no -more is dissolved. Slip on the brass support just where -you want it, and lay on a piece of solder about half the size -of a grain of wheat. Now hold this in the flame of a candle, -in the gas, or near a hot stove, until the solder melts. Take -it away and let it cool, and you will find that the solder has -run into all the cracks and joined the pieces beautifully. -File off any excess of solder or rough ends, and you will have -a neat and workman-like joint, as well as a very light one.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Cut out the piece No. 3, and bend it into the shape shown -at No. 4. In this case you will need to file the upper surface -of the groove bright and clean. Take off the polish from -the other end of the needle, and then put the stern-post, as -it may be called, in place, and hold it there by twisting a -fine wire around it and the needle. Be careful to get both -supports turned the same way. Then braze and finish it as -before.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Make the piece No. 5, and form it into the shape No. 6. -This is fastened by brazing to the backbone, as shown in -the lower diagram. Take a piece of another knitting-needle, -and make a shaft like No. 7 by heating red-hot and pounding -the end into a hook with a small hammer.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Put the straight end of this shaft through the hole in the -stern-post which was formed by bending the metal, and -then make a shoulder on it, as follows: bend a piece of fine -wire into a ring the size of the needle, and braze this to the -shaft about a quarter-inch from the stern-post. This ring -of wire keeps the shaft from slipping through the hole when -<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>the rubber is stretched. File a flat point on the straight -end of the shaft.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Next make the wings. For the ribs I used the thin bamboo -strips taken from a Japanese fan. The paper is pulled -or soaked off, and the thin strips cut close to the handle. -The front of the wings is made as in the upper diagram of -Fig. 3. Take one of the largest and stiffest strips of the -bamboo, find the exact middle, and lay it evenly across the -wing-support (No. 6 in Fig. 2), which is already in place on -the backbone. Lash it to the support with waxed sewing-silk. -Over this piece lay two others of equal length, making -them come together (but not lap over) just above the backbone. -When well secured, add three pieces of the same -length above the two, placing them in such a way that the -joinings shall not come over the joinings of either of the other -pieces, and thus weaken the wings.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The ribs are made from the bamboo strips, cut the proper -length and lashed to the front edge. The other ends are -fastened to a cross-rib to make them take the same curvature. -The lower diagram of Fig. 3 shows how the ribs are spaced.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Cover the wings with thin, strong paper. The best is -Japanese paper, such as is used in making napkins. This -is exceedingly light and very strong. It should be sewed, -not gummed, as the gum makes the paper tear easily, and -your sticky fingers spoil the whole cover very quickly. The -paper is tough enough to be sewed, using a fine needle and -white cotton, and you will get a neater and much more -satisfactory job.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Make a triangle by lashing together three pieces of bamboo, -two being about two inches long, and the third one -<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>inch. This triangle is lashed to the backbone just behind -the wings, with the short side down; its position may be -seen by a glance at the picture of the finished machine. It -is kept rigid by running stays, made of waxed sewing-silk, -from the lower corners to the stern-post, from the right-hand -corner to the middle of the left wing, and from the left-hand -corner to the middle of the right wing.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Just in front of this triangle fasten a piece of the bamboo, -and make two small guiding vanes or rudders. These are -made in a similar manner to the wings. Tie threads to the -lower corners of the wings, and then to the triangle, drawing -them down until they have the proper angle. The guiding-vanes -should have a greater angle than the wings—that is, -they should be drawn farther down.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It only remains now to make the screw and attach the -rubber band. For the hub of the wheel you will need a -small cork. This cork must be kept from turning on the -end of the shaft. If the sharpened end of the shaft carrying -the hook for the rudder was simply stuck into the cork, it -would soon wear loose and turn easily. To make a firm -hold for the shaft, bore a hole through the cork about a -quarter-inch from the large end, and drive a plug of soft -wood into this hole. The flat-pointed end of the shaft can -now pass into the cork and be forced into the wood, being -careful to have the end of the point parallel to the grain of -the wood. This will give a firm hold and prevent the screw -slipping.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The blades of the screw are made of thin paper gummed -on to short pieces of bamboo. Lay one of the bamboo -spokes on a piece of thin, stiff paper, and then gum over it -<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>a small strip of the thin Japanese paper before referred to. -When this is dry, cut it down to the proper shape and -sharpen the end of the spoke. Force these spokes into the -cork so that all the blades will turn the same way, as shown -in the picture—<em>i. e.</em>, so that when the screw is turned the -blades will all strike the air in the same manner and tend to -force the machine forward, not so that some try to push it -forward and some backward.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Select a rubber band of the proper size—such a one as will -stretch the length of the backbone easily and not be so -strong that, when stretched, the backbone is bent into a -bow. Tie this band to the forward support with a string, -and then draw it back and slip it over the hook on the shaft.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To wind up the machine, hold it by the backbone and turn -the screw the wrong way until the rubber is twisted tight. -Then hold the machine up, let go the screw, and when it is -revolving rapidly, give it a gentle push forward. If it pitches -head-first, draw down the wings; if tail-first, let up the -wings or turn the screw the other way. If the wheel does -not revolve rapidly cut off part of the blades or use a stronger -rubber. Some little adjustment of the kind is usually required -before the thing moves properly.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A contrivance of this sort should be very light. The one -before me has wings two feet from tip to tip, and it weighs -when complete—backbone, wings, rubber, screw, etc.—only -one-third of an ounce.</p> - -<h4 id='section_v_2' class='c014'>Self-acting Aërial Car</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Here is an idea for a mechanical toy to be used either on -a kite-string or a cord stretched from a flag-pole in the yard -<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>or a handy tree. The only condition is that the lower end -of the cord is directly against the wind. The elevation at -which the car can run will depend on the strength of the -wind and sail area of the machine. The only wood used -is the lightest and driest pine that can be procured. The -carriage is made entirely of one-half by one-quarter inch -wood, and is composed of two strips, fourteen inches long, -placed one inch apart. The two guiders are two inches -from each end, and have a small screw-eye on the lower extremity, -through which the cord is passed. On the upper -side of the carriage, exactly in the centre, are screwed two -eyes, which should measure a little over a half-inch in diameter -of the inside of their circle. Through these is passed -the spar of the sail, allowing enough space to insure easy -turning, as the spar acts as an axis on which the sail turns -when on its downward trip. This spar is at right angles -with the carriage. Two upright sticks measuring twenty -inches, and the same dimensions as the material used for -the construction of the carriage, are next added. These -should be slightly pointed at both ends, and a cross-bar at -the top of these uprights securely fastened gives additional -strength. The balancing-bar is made of three-eighths by -three-eighths inch pine, tapering at the lower end, and is ten -inches in length, and fastened to the carriage by two strips -of wood—five by one-quarter by one-eighth inch. The -wheels are formed as follows: Take a piece of one-eighth -inch pine, which should be at least three inches wide. On -this place a strip of wood, we will say, for instance, ten by -one-quarter by one-half inch. By driving a small wire -nail through both pieces of wood, and inserting a sharp -<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>knife-blade through the upper piece of wood, and turning -(the upper piece) slowly from left to right, you will -find you can cut a perfect circle in the lower piece of wood. -The wheels are formed by this process. It takes four pieces -of stiff card-board and two of wood to make the wheels for -the carriage. The diameter of the wooden wheel is one and -one-half inches, while the card-board disks are two and one-quarter -inches. The wheels in the draught are a trifle smaller, -but by experiments it is found that the above-sized wheel -makes faster time. You will see that after cutting out your -disks the hole made by the wire nail is exactly in the centre. -Run a small wire nail through the three disks, placing the -wooden disk in the centre and the card-board ones on each -<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>side (this makes three disks for each wheel). Put some glue -on touching surface, and clinch the three together with pins -or wire brads. The place where these nails go is shown by -the spots on side draught of the wheel. The axle-tree is -made of oak, and at the extremities a piece of stout wire is -inserted, which extends one-eighth of an inch beyond the -wood of the axle-tree. The hardest axle-tree is one made -from the shafts of an old clock. Take particular care that -the wheels run very true, as the success of the machine -depends to a great extent upon this.</p> - -<div id='i_100' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_100.jpg' alt='Fig. 4' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>From the lower extremity of the balancing-rod hangs a -weight. The easiest way to make this weight is to take a -small bag, and fill it with sand until the machine balances -(the sail in horizontal position). Having progressed thus -far in the construction of the machine, turn the sail in a -horizontal position, and attach a cord from one side of the -cross-bar to a small grooved wheel at the aft end of the -carriage. From the screw-eye at lower extremity of the -balancing-bar is attached a small rubber band; when -stretched it will reach within three-quarters of an inch of -the small wheel at the aft end of the carriage. It will be -found, after the cord and rubber band have been joined, -that upon letting go the perpendicular bars the sail will turn -in a horizontal position. At the forward end of the carriage -is a catch, to which is fastened a ring. The catch comes in -contact with a block (previously placed three-quarters up -the string). The detail drawings show the formation and -working of the catch. Fig. 4.</p> - -<div id='i_102' class='figcenter id014'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span> -<img src='images/i_102.jpg' alt='Fig. 5, Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The sail is made of light muslin, and extends in the form -of a pair of wings, the cloth only reaching from the outside -<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>of the uprights to the ends of the spar, leaving a free space -in the centre for the sail to pass through the carriage. The -parachute is a small Chinese umbrella (pick out one that -opens easily), and can be bought for a few cents. A small -weight is attached to the handle with a few feet of cord. -We will say that now you have completed the machine—you -have a kite flying; run the string through the two -guiders, place the two wheels of the carriage upon the kite-string, -set the sail perpendicular, and fasten the catch with -the cord. A stop-block has been previously placed on the -cord twenty feet from the kite; now attach the parachute -(Chinese umbrella). The force of the wind acting on the -sail forces the machine up the incline of the kite-string at a -rapid rate, skyward, until it reaches the block, which throws -off the catch. The sail swings back to a horizontal position, -letting the parachute drop. The sail being folded and presenting -no resistance to the wind, the force of gravitation -acting on the weight of the machine causes it to descend -the kite-cord quickly, and return to the original starting-point -of its flight. See Fig. 5, a side and end view, and -Fig. 6, the parachute and the car on its return.</p> - -<h4 id='section_v_3' class='c014'>Aërial Boat-sailing</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Study with care the accompanying plans. The materials -are one-half by one-quarter-inch pine, free from knots, -ten common brass rings three-quarters of an inch in diameter, -two round-headed brass screws one inch in length, -two flat-headed ones of the same dimensions, two small -screw-hooks, and eight assorted brass screw-eyes, there being -<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>two of each size. Now that we have the material for -the frames, we will begin with Fig. 7, which shows the -sail and sheer plan. The frame is made of six pieces of -wood. The top piece is exactly two feet in length. The -two uprights which hold the wheels are each one foot and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>one inch long. The two angle pieces are one foot nine inches -each. The lower horizontal strip measures two feet three -and one-half inches, and is joined to the two angle strips by -means of a screw-eye and screw at each extremity. Now -cut a strip of pine, making it exactly three feet in length. -Set it on the frame in an upright position, allowing a half-inch -clearance from the upper horizontal piece. It should -be eleven inches from one of the angle pieces at the lower -end. Round the upper part above the horizontal strip; it -should be brought to a taper at the upper end. This forms -the mast. The lower part is uniform, and allows the weight -to be moved up and down to insure a correct balance, which -is regulated according to the force of the wind. The weight -is made of one-and-a-half-inch lead pipe, and is two inches -in length. A round plug of pine is driven in the centre of -the lead pipe, and a hole is bored in the centre of the plug to -fit the balancing-bar.</p> - -<div id='i_104' class='figcenter id015'> -<img src='images/i_104.jpg' alt='Fig. 7' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>One of the screw-eyes is inserted through the piece of -lead pipe, and by this means the weight can be elevated or -brought down the shaft and held firmly in the required -place, which will depend on the force of the wind. In -regard to the wheels, Fig. 8 shows the simplest constructed. -They are made in three parts. Take two of the -largest-sized wooden button moulds and a piece of thin -board (cut in a circle) smaller than the button moulds. We -will say, for instance, the button moulds are one and one-half -inches in diameter, and the centre piece of pine is one -inch in diameter and one-eighth of an inch thick. The way -to get a true circle on this soft pine is to take the one-eighth-inch -wood and measure on a separate piece of pine one-half -<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>inch, drive in a small wire nail in one extreme of the previously -measured strip, and on the other extremity insert the -point of a sharp knife. Place on the board used for centre -of wheel, and turn in a circle from right to left several times. -If the distance between the knife-blade and nail is one-half -inch, the wheel cut out will be exactly one inch in diameter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Insert a wire nail through the two button moulds, and -place the inch wheel in the centre, gluing it at each contact -surface. This will give you the grooved wheel.</p> - -<div id='i_106' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_106.jpg' alt='Fig. 8' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The drawing (Fig. 7) indicates how this wheel is fastened -to the frame. The wheel can be made of two card-board -disks two and one-half inches in diameter, and one wooden -wheel two inches in diameter placed between them. They -<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>are joined by clinched pins, shown by the circle of dots in -Fig. 8.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The dimensions of the sail are as follows: Main-sail—hoist, -ten and one-half inches; gaff, eight and one-half -inches; leech, nineteen and one-quarter inches; boom, -fourteen and one-half inches. Jib—foot, eleven inches; -hoist, sixteen inches—on the stay, twenty and one-quarter -inches. The jib carries a boom, and the main-sail a gaff -and boom. The material used for the sails is light muslin -with hemmed edges.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Take a long chalk-line or heavy cord, and stretch at right -angles to the direction of the wind. If the wind is from the -north, the cord must reach east and west. Each extremity -of the cord must be the same height from the ground, and -can be attached from tree to tree, or from an upper-story -window to a house near by.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When the boat reaches the extremity of the cord the -operator at that end of the cord turns it, and starts it on -the return journey.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If the cord is strung between two houses you will find -the boat will sail back and forth, except when the wind is -dead ahead or a few points either way.</p> - -<h4 id='section_v_4' class='c014'>A “High-flyer”</h4> - -<p class='c015'>To make the “flyer” you will need a piece of thin sheet -tin, zinc, or iron, that may be purchased from a tinsmith -for a few cents; and for the engine a linen-thread spool, a -piece of hard-wood stick, and a few steel wire nails will be -required.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>To begin with, obtain an empty linen-thread spool having -a smooth hole through it, and in one end drive four one-inch -steel-wire nails at regular distances apart, so as to form the -corners of a perfect square; drive the nails in half-way, then -file the heads off, and the spool will appear like Fig. 9. -Next get a round hard-wood stick seven inches long, and -around it, two inches from one end, make a deep cut with -your knife. From this cut to the end of the stick shave the -wood away so it will look like Fig. 11.</p> - -<p class='c011'>These two parts will complete the engine, and the next -thing to make will be the flyer. Thin sheet-zinc will be -found the best to make it of; and having obtained a piece, -mark on it with a compass a circle five inches in diameter; -mark two lines across this circle from edge to edge, at right -angles, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 14.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From a piece of stiff paper cut a pattern in the form of -one of the ears shown in Fig. 14. Lay this pattern on the -zinc so that one of the lines will be in the centre of it, and -mark the shape on the zinc; mark the other three ears in a -similar manner, and then with a stout pair of shears cut out -the flyer.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the centre of it make a hole large enough for the small -end of the stick to pass through it, and around it make four -small holes at the centre of each ear, to correspond with the -pins on the spool.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The flyer will then fit over the stick and pins and lay flat -on top of the spool; bend its ears with your fingers so they -appear like the propeller-blades of a steamboat, or like a -windmill, and it will then be ready to fly. Fig. 10.</p> - -<div id='i_109' class='figcenter id016'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span> -<img src='images/i_109.jpg' alt='Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 11, Fig. 12, Fig. 13, Fig. 14' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A “HIGH-FLYER”</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>When bending the ears they must be arranged so that the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>edge that catches the wind first will be inclined upward, as -otherwise the flyer, instead of flying, will hug the spool tightly.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Another style of flyer is shown in Fig. 12, and is made of -a circular disk of zinc four inches in diameter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Make the five holes in the centre fit over the stick and -pins. When all the places have been cut, bend the ears -down as shown in Fig. 13, and when flying it turn it upside-down, -letting the ears project upward.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To put the flyer in action, take the stick in your left hand, -and over the small end of it place the spool, against which -put your thumb to keep it from slipping. Wind strong cord -around the spool, to the end of which a button is fastened to -keep the cord from slipping through your fingers; on top -of the spool place the flyer, and give the string a vigorous -pull, at the same time releasing the spool with your thumb, -and the centrifugal force will cause the flyer to revolve rapidly, -shoot upward, and sail to a height of fifty or a hundred -feet in the air, slowly descending as the revolutions diminish.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Larger flyers can be made in a similar manner; and to -make a very large one, plant a post in the ground, having its -upper end reduced to form a shoulder, as explained for the -small stick. Get a round piece of wood several inches in -diameter, and arrange four very stout steel-wire nails in the -top of it. Make a tin or iron flyer twelve or fifteen inches in -diameter, and use a piece of small clothes-line or cotton line -to spin it with.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To operate it, wind the spool with the rope, and have some -one under it to keep it from slipping. When you are ready to -pull the rope, place the flyer on the pins, and as the spool is released -give the rope a quick, strong pull, and the flyer will rise.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span> - <h2 id='part_ii' class='c005'>Part II<br /> <br /><span class='xlarge'>AFIELD</span></h2> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span> -<h3 id='chapter_vi' class='c013'>Chapter VI<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>COASTERS, SKEES, AND SNOW-SHOES</span></h3> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_5_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>All</span> real boys welcome the approach of the winter season -with its glorious opportunities for sport on the -snow and ice. Toboggans, double-runners, skees, and snow-shoes—the -very words make the blood tingle in one’s veins, -and happy is the boy whose home is in the Northern climes -where there is real winter for at least four months out of the -year.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Nowadays it is possible to purchase almost everything -for winter sports, but the boy who is handy with tools and -of an inventive turn of mind will take more pleasure in constructing -his own things than in buying them out of a shop.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Very few boys would care to make their own skates, as -the modern steel-clamp skates are superior in lightness and -durability to anything he could construct; but the various -varieties of sleds, coasters, and snow-shoes are quite within -the measure of his abilities, and their making will fill most -pleasurably the leisure hours after school and on Saturdays.</p> - -<p class='c011'>All the cold-weather countries have their distinctive and -peculiar forms of winter amusements. Tobogganing and -snow-shoeing are particularly popular in Canada; skeeing -is the national sport of Norway. But it is the American -boy who has reduced coasting to an exact science, and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>Yankee bob-sleds and “jumper-coasters” are now pre-eminent -wherever the snow flies. To take the best wherever we -find it is the sportsman’s motto.</p> - -<h4 id='section_vi_1' class='c014'>Toboggans</h4> - -<p class='c015'>There is no more enjoyable winter sport than tobogganing, -and in many parts of America, notably Montreal, large -and expensively constructed artificial slides are in constant -use throughout the winter season.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For ordinary hill-coasting most American boys prefer -bob-sleds and coasters, but in the extreme Northern States -and throughout Canada the plain toboggan is the favorite -coaster.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A boy who is at all clever with tools can make a good -toboggan from three or four thin hickory boards, a few -cross-battens, and some rails. For the bottom quarter-inch -hickory should be employed, as that is strong and will bend -easily when steamed.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To make an eight-foot toboggan with a width of twenty -inches, obtain the hickory boards and batten them with -three pieces of hard-wood two inches wide and three-quarters -of an inch thick. Make the fastenings with brass -screws or copper rivets having the heads countersunk in -the bottom. At the front ends rivet on a wood batten long -enough to project two inches beyond the boards at each -end.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From a curtain-pole cut six pieces two inches long and -bore a quarter-inch hole through each one from end to end. -Cut two hickory rails three-quarters of an inch square and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>plane off the sharp corners; then with copper or iron rods, -to act as long rivets, attach the rails to the toboggan so -that they are separated from the battens by means of the -wooden blocks, as shown in the illustration of the plain -toboggan. Fig. 1.</p> - -<div id='i_115' class='figcenter id017'> -<img src='images/i_115.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>At both ends of the rod-rivets place washers or burrs to -rivet on, as otherwise the rivet would pull through the wood, -tearing the hole larger and at the same time making the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>anchorage insecure. Cut notches in the projecting ends of -the front stick as shown at the right side of Fig. 2, so that -ropes can be lashed fast to the stick as shown at the left -side of Fig. 2.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Steam the boards between the front end and the first -batten, or pour boiling hot water over both sides of the -boards; then bend the wood up and with the ropes as a -help to hold the boards in place continue the wetting and -bending until the proper curve has been gained, as shown -in the illustration. Lash the ropes fast, and when the wood -is dry sand-paper it smooth and give it several good coats -of varnish.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A sled-toboggan (Fig. 3) is made from two hickory boards -eight feet long and a quarter of an inch in thickness. If the -toboggan is to be twenty-two inches wide each runner -should be several inches wide.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Three hard-wood bridges twenty-two inches long and -four inches high are cut, as shown in Fig. 4, and attached -to the runners with screws (Fig. 3). They support a seat -eight inches wide which is screwed down to the top of the -bridges.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In front of the first bridge and behind the last one short -bracket-braces are attached to prevent the bridges from -rocking, and these as well as the bridges can be cut from -wood about an inch and a half in thickness.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The front ends of the boards are attached to a batten, -and by steaming the boards may be curved up as shown -and held in place with a stanchion-rope lashed fast to the -batten and to the front bridge. A supporting bridge should -be used to give it additional power. Fig. 3.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>When the varnish wears off the bottom give it another -coat, as the smooth, hard finish helps the toboggan to -slide easily over the snow.</p> - -<h4 id='section_vi_2' class='c014'>A Rocker-coaster</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A very good coasting-sled is shown in the illustration of -a rocker-coaster (Fig. 5), and for short hills a sled of this -sort will prove very fast and easy to steer.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is from four to five feet long, twenty inches broad, -and seven inches high at the middle. The lower edge of -each runner is curved from end to end with a long, sweeping -line, and it is grooved to receive a round runner of steel, -which a blacksmith will make and attach.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The frame of the coaster should be made of hard-wood -five-eighths of an inch in thickness, and the three cross-ribs -are one inch and a half in width and one inch in thickness. -Laps are cut in the top edges of the sides, and the cross-ribs -are let into them and made fast with screws. Wooden -brackets or cleats are attached to the sides and to the under -side of each cross-rib to strengthen the construction, and -at both ends a piece of round curtain-pole is made fast as -shown in Fig. 5.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The ends of the poles are trimmed off so as to form dowel -ends, and these fit into holes made in the ends of the sides.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Hand-holes are cut with a bit and compass-saw at the -ends of the sides; a deck of half-inch wood is laid over the -ribs and held down with screws. Have the blacksmith -flatten the ends of each runner and bend them over so they -will lie on top at the end of each side.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>A few good coats of paint will finish the wood-work nicely, -and the rocker-coaster will then be ready for use.</p> - -<h4 id='section_vi_3' class='c014'>A Single-runner Coaster</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A few years ago the boys of New England invented a new -kind of sled and called it a single-runner coaster or jumper-coaster. -They sit upon it, keeping their balance with the -feet, and it is remarkable how rapidly and easily they go -downhill on this queer-looking affair, and without the -slightest danger of toppling over. Fig. 6.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The coaster is very simple in construction and any boy -can make it from pine or hard-wood, the latter being preferable -as it has more body and is heavier. The runner is -forty-two inches long, one inch and a half thick, and four -inches high, curved at one end and cut at an angle at the -other. The upright is of wood the same thickness and -width, and eleven or twelve inches high, so that with the -top board or seat and the height of the runner the coaster -is sixteen or seventeen inches high; and for taller boys it -can be made still higher. The seat is ten inches long and -seven inches wide, and attached to the upright with screws, -as shown at Fig. 7. The upright is cut from wood about -ten inches wide, so that, with a compass-saw, a broad foot -may be shaped at the bottom which will give a better bearing -on the runner than would a narrower one.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From wood two inches wide, make two side-plates or -braces to run from under the seat down half-way over the -runner as shown in Fig. 7. To steady the seat at the top -of the uprights cut two angle-brackets and attach them as -<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>shown in the figure drawing. A blacksmith will fashion a -runner from quarter-round or thin tire iron and attach it as -shown in the illustration. The runners can be held on with -flat-headed screws countersunk in the iron, and after a few -trips the surface of the metal will be worn bright and smooth, -insuring easy and rapid running.</p> - -<h4 id='section_vi_4' class='c014'>A Bob-sled</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Every boy wants a double-runner of his own, for there -seems to be nothing quite like bobbing on a sled carrying -from six to ten boys—enough to give it weight and a good -impetus on its downward course. A bob-sled is not at all -difficult to construct, and a very satisfactory and substantial -one may be made from inexpensive materials and with the -tools that nearly every boy possesses. Fig. 8.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For the seat obtain a clear spruce plank ten feet long, ten -inches wide, and one inch and a half thick, planed on both -sides and edges. The front sled is thirty inches long and -fourteen inches wide, with the sides five inches high. The -rear sled is forty inches long from prow to end of runners, -and is the same width and height as the front one. The sides -are of hard-wood seven-eighths of an inch in thickness, and -braced with cross-pieces of hard-wood two inches wide and -one inch and a half thick.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Laps are cut in the top of the sides, and with screws the -ends of the braces are securely held in place. Under each -cross-piece and at the sides brackets must be securely -fastened with screws as shown at Fig. 9, to strengthen the -sides and take some of the strain from the cross-piece fastenings. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>Eight inches from the rear end a stout block is set -in the runners through which the king-bolt passes that -fastens the seat to the sled. This is of hard-wood fourteen -inches long, two inches and a half wide, and four inches -high at the middle, as shown in Fig. 9. A similar block -two inches high is attached to the under side of the plank -and bears on the lower block. Between the two blocks and -on the bolt, two large, flat iron washers are placed, so that -it will be an easy matter to turn the sled when there is a -heavy weight on the plank.</p> - -<div id='i_120' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_120.jpg' alt='Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 11' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>The head of the five-eighths-inch king-bolt should be -embedded in the top of the block that is fast to the plank -before it is attached, and the bolt should be provided with -two nuts for safety. In the summer-time, when the bob is -stored away, the forward sled can be removed by unscrewing -the nuts from the lower end of the bolt under the -sled.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To steer the bob a hard-wood cross-bar piece is let into -the runners as shown in Fig. 9. It projects six inches at -each side, and foot-notches are cut at the rear edge as shown -in the illustration. The rear sled is attached to the plank -by means of a block and bolts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two triangular hard-wood blocks one inch in thickness, -with the grain running vertically, are screwed fast to the -inside sides of the runners as shown in Fig. 10, and through -holes in the upper end a long half-inch bolt is passed from -side to side. This bolt fits in a groove made at the under -side of the block that is attached to the plank; and across -the groove in several places straps of iron are fastened as -shown in the inverted block at Fig. 11. A hinge-joint is -the result, and to prevent the rear sled from dropping too -far when jumping over a bump a rope should be passed -under the forward cross-piece and attached to a staple -driven at the under side of the plank.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The plank can be padded with hair from an old mattress -and covered with a strip of carpet nailed all around the -edges of the board. Cross-pieces screwed fast to the under -<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>side of the plank will serve as foot-rests, and with a coat or -two of paint this bob-sled will be ready for use.</p> - -<h4 id='section_vi_5' class='c014'>Skees</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Skee running and jumping is one of the favorite winter -sports in Norway and Sweden and is steadily growing in -favor both in the Northern United States and in Canada. -On very steep hills it is a dangerous sport, but it is perfectly -safe to use the skees on either short hills or on long ones -that are not too steep. Once you start you must go to the -bottom, and a good skee-jumper should be as agile as a cat, -for he must always land feet down when jumping.</p> - -<div id='i_122' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_122.jpg' alt='Fig. 12, Fig. 13' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>A skee of the right proportions should be seven feet long -and four inches wide. Hickory, oak, or other hard-wood -three-quarters of an inch in thickness will be the best material -<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>from which to make the skees. Two or three grooves -cut in a straight line along the entire bottom length will -hold the skee slider on his course, as the keel does a boat.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The skees are tapered and bent up at the front ends as -shown in Fig. 12. This can be done by steaming and bending -until the proper pitch is obtained; but if a high curve -is desired it would be well to attach a thong to the end and -draw it back to the body of the skee as shown in Fig. 12 A.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the middle of the skee a foot-block is attached and -provided with a toe-strap as shown in Fig. 13. This strap -fits under the block and can be removed if necessary as a -lap is cut at the under side of the block.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A shorter and broader skee is shown in Fig. 12 B. This -is safer for smaller boys to use as it is five feet long and six -inches wide.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Many of the Norwegian skees are beautifully carved and -ornamented, and the boy who has some decorative ability -can embellish the tops of his skees and varnish them all -over to improve their appearance and make them smooth, -so that they will slide easily.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A skee made from a hogshead or crockery-cask stave is -shown in Fig. 12 C, and a great deal of fun can be had with -this makeshift on short hills.</p> - -<h4 id='section_vi_6' class='c014'>Snow-shoes</h4> - -<p class='c015'>For travelling over the snow the most widely known and -useful appliance is the snow-shoe in one form or another. -The Esquimau and the American Indian do all their winter -travelling on snow-shoes, and through the Alps and in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>snow-bound parts of Europe and Asia they are commonly -employed as a means of locomotion from place to place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The long snow-shoe shown in Fig. 14 A is the one commonly -used by the Iroquois Indians, and it measures from -three to four feet in length and from twelve to fifteen inches -in width. It is usually made from one long strip of hickory -bent while green and dried in the desired shape, then braced -and interlaced with thongs of rawhide or deer-gut.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rim is usually from three-quarters to seven-eighths -of an inch square and is rounded on the outer edges. The -braces or spreaders are let into the inner edges of the rim -as shown in Fig. 15 A, and are held securely in place with a -thong passed through a hole in the end of the piece and -wrapped around the rim as shown in Fig. 15 B. The -spreaders are of seasoned hickory two inches wide and five-eighths -of an inch thick. The edges are bevelled slightly, -and near the centre line two rows of holes are made through -which to lace the thongs. Two smaller sticks are arranged -at each side of the broad spreaders, and the lattice weaving -is caught around them as shown in the illustration. Some -of the thongs are caught over the rim while others are passed -through holes made in the edge similar to the manner in -which a tennis racket is laced. Foot-laces are fastened at -the front spreader to which the shoe-toes are lashed, for -when travelling the heels should be free to lift while the ball -of the foot and the entire snow-shoe remains flat on the -snow.</p> - -<div id='i_125' class='figcenter id018'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span> -<img src='images/i_125.jpg' alt='Fig. 14, Fig. 15' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>SNOW-SHOES</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The shoe in the form of a tennis racket (Fig. 14 B) is the -shape commonly used by the Esquimaux and is about thirty-four -inches long and fifteen inches wide. It is made somewhat -<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>similar to the Iroquois shoe but the mesh is more -open.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The oval shoe (Fig. 14 C) is made from two U-shaped -rims lashed together at the middle and provided with two -spreaders. Two stout pieces of rawhide are laced in the -ends, and through the middle a lacing of thongs is woven -across between the spreaders and sides of the rim.</p> - -<p class='c011'>These and many other forms of snow-shoes can be made -by the boy who is interested in snow-shoe travelling. The -wood can be procured anywhere and the rawhide thongs -may be purchased at a hardware store. They are sold as -belt-lacings for machinery, but they can be easily split and -so made available for snow-shoe use.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span> -<h3 id='chapter_vii' class='c016'>Chapter VII<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>SAIL-SKATING AND SNOWBALL ARTILLERY</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_vii_1' class='c014'>A Skating-sail</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>Sail-skating</span> is a very enjoyable means of getting over -the ice, and with properly constructed frames and sails -a very respectable rate of speed can be maintained. In -using a sail the boy is the boat, and by his manipulation of -the sheets he can go where he pleases, either before the -wind or tacking, as in a boat.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The skating-sail shown in Fig. 1 is an improvement over -the old style of attaching two diamond-shaped cloths to the -ends of yard-arms. To make the frame obtain two clear -pine or white-wood sticks twelve feet long, one inch and a -quarter square, and taper them slightly towards the ends -with a plane. At the same time round the corners at the -top of one stick and bottom of the other as shown in Fig. -2 C, which represents a sawed-off section of both sticks. -With linen line wind the sticks for an inch or two for every -nine or ten inches of their entire length to strengthen them. -Paint these windings a dark color and then varnish the -sticks or color them with a stain.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Now procure two other sticks, each five feet six inches -long and seven-eighths of an inch square, and plane them -<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>smooth, at the same time tapering the ends slightly. These -are for the cross-arms, and at the middle of each one lash -fast a block five inches long and seven-eighths of an inch -square having a pin driven in each end as shown in Fig. 2 A. -These pins fit in small holes made at the inside of the -yard-arms four feet and six inches from either end.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The yard-arms are lashed together at the ends, then sprung -apart at the middle so that the cross-arm blocks will fit between -them. To properly hold the arms in place a strap -should be drawn around the sticks at the middle, and to -insure a good prop a block six inches long, two inches wide, -and seven-eighths of an inch thick is to be cut and provided -with two pins at each end as shown in Fig. 2 C. The pins -will fit into small holes made in the long sticks, and when -the strap is buckled tight the block will be held securely in -place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A large flat hook should be lashed fast to this block, and -when sailing along before the wind this can be caught over -a stout leather belt to help support the weight of the -sail.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two twilled-cotton sails are made in the shape shown in -the illustration and provided with snaps at the three outer -ends so that they may catch into eyes lashed fast to the ends -of the arms and to the long sticks as shown in Fig. 2 B. -The sails should be drawn taut at the inner ends with rings -and a strap or light rope. If there should be too much sail-area -for the wind that may be blowing the sail can be -feathered—that is, bent down or up so that it allows some -of the wind to pass under it instead of pressing against the -sails with its full force.</p> - -<div id='i_129' class='figcenter id019'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span> -<img src='images/i_129.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A SKATING-SAIL, A SQUARE-RIGGED ICE-SAIL, AND A SNOWBALL MORTAR</p> -</div> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_vii_2' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>A Square-rigged Ice-sail</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In Fig. 3 two square sails are supported at the ends of -crossed yard-arms fourteen feet long. Four cross-sticks of -equal length are made, the same as those for the skating-sail -first described, and at the middle a long block is attached -to two of them as shown in Fig. 2 A. Pins in the ends of the -blocks fit into holes in the long arms, and when the ends of -the long arms are bent in they grip the pins and blocks.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Short blocks provided with a single pin are lashed to the -outer cross-sticks eight inches in from the ends. Holes -made in the outer ends of the long sticks will receive these -pins, the spring of the stick holding both inner and outer -cross-sticks in place at the same time.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Heavy sheeting or unbleached muslin sails may be stretched -and bound to the cross-sticks and when detached they -can be rolled up on the sticks. This sail is handled the same -as the skating-sail but is more powerful as the sheets are -larger.</p> - -<h4 id='section_vii_3' class='c014'>A Snowball Mortar</h4> - -<p class='c015'>For snowball fights a mortar is an effective weapon for -it throws a shot upward into the air. It may be mounted -on a hand-sled.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Make two triangles of boards as shown in Fig. 4. The -bottom strip should project far enough below the two legs -to permit of screwing it firmly to the edge of the bottom -board, which is the width of the top of the sled and is attached -to it by straps.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The pivot-bar or axle-tree rests in grooves cut in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>points of the triangles. The propulsion-bar (A) is a stout -piece of oak fastened securely to the pivot-bar and at right -angles to it. Two uprights (BB) fastened to the bottom -board by screws or nails driven from underneath and braced -to the legs of the triangles support a cross-piece which -keeps the propulsion-bar horizontal when the spring is attached. -A small tin basin is secured to the extreme forward -end of the propulsion-bar.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To use the mortar place a snowball or other missile in the -basin and strike the other end of the bar a hard blow with a -long-handled wooden-mallet.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The range may be regulated by the force of the blow and -by moving the sled to and fro and right and left. Dimensions -of mortar shown in diagram: Length of bottom board, -three feet ten inches; length of legs, two feet six inches; -uprights, two feet three inches; propulsion-bar, four feet -two inches by two and one-half by four inches; width of -frame, thirteen inches.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Should the snow be too dry to make compact snowballs -a small piece of sheep-skin or cotton-batting should be -inserted in the breech of the gun or the basin of the mortar -and tacked in place. This will tend to prevent the snowballs -from breaking.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 5 is an end-view of the mortar and Fig. 6 is the -wooden mallet used in firing.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span> -<h3 id='chapter_viii' class='c016'>Chapter VIII<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>KITES AND AEROPLANES</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_viii_1' class='c014'>The Ship Kite</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_2_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>The</span> ship kite (Fig. 1) is an odd shape for a wind-toy -but a good sailer in any breeze. It is quite easy to -make and requires but one mast, four yard-arms, a keel, -some thin, strong twine, and the necessary covering materials. -The mast is thirty-six inches long, the lowest spar -twenty-four inches long, the top one twelve, and the two -middle ones proportioned in length to the two side-strings -tied at the ends of the top and bottom sticks—that is, at -A and B on both sides of Fig. 2.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The keel of the frame is made from a thin piece of hard-wood -that will spring and keep its shape, such as hickory, -oak, or birch; and after soaking it in boiling hot water for -a few minutes lash it fast to the bottom of the mast and -draw up the ends with the strings C, C (Fig. 2), and carry -the ends up over two yard-arms so the pressure of the keel -will not draw the lower yard-arm out of shape. The sticks -should be of good clear and tough white or North Carolina -pine, spruce, or white-wood, three-eighths of an inch square -for the mast and the same size but tapered at the ends for -the yard-arms. Use strong cotton or linen twine for the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>connections between spars and mast and draw them taut -but not so tight that they would spring the sticks out of shape.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From the ends of each yard-arm strings D D D are -stretched and tied to the mast so as to make an opening -at the bottom of each sail. In kite-making it is found a -much better plan to have a number of planes against which -the wind can act instead of one large one that is often unwieldy -and difficult to handle.</p> - -<div id='i_133' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_133.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>This frame should be covered with thin paper muslin, -sewed all around the edges over the string-ribs and to the -frame-sticks with strong cotton thread. Do not have too -much muslin overlap the edges, and after going around the -edges twice with the needle and fine cotton thread it would -be well to cut away all the unnecessary material as it only -<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>adds weight with no benefit to the kite. Do not use paste -or glue to fasten the fabric covering on a frame; it only -adds weight and does not stick well.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Arrange the yoke as shown in the illustration of the ship -kite (Fig. 1), and to balance it make two funnel-drags or -wind-anchors from thin wire or wood hoops, nine inches in -diameter, the funnel proper being of paper muslin twelve -inches deep. Use hickory or green birch for the hoops and -lap the ends for three inches; then bind them together with -strong linen thread.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Make the funnel-shaped bag of paper muslin and drop the -hoop into it, taking care to get an equal space all around -from point of cone to edge of hoop. Then sew the bag fast -to the hoop and cut away all surplus material. The yoke -is made of two strong, thin cross-wires or strings and the -drop-string is fastened where they cross, as may be seen in -Fig. 1.</p> - -<h4 id='section_viii_2' class='c014'>The Chinese-junk Kite</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The Chinese-junk kite (Fig. 3), is made in a similar manner -to the ship kite, but there are two masts, as the kite -is broader and larger; consequently the frame should be -braced so that it will not rack in a strong breeze.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The masts are forty-two inches high, the lowest yard-arm -thirty-six inches long, and the top one thirty inches in -length. The bottom of the hull is made from a piece of -green hickory or birch sprung into place and lashed fast with -linen line. There are three inches of space between the -hull and lower sail and from two to three inches of space -between the other sails.</p> - -<div id='i_135' class='figcenter id020'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span> -<img src='images/i_135.jpg' alt='Fig. 3, Fig. 4' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>THE CHINESE-JUNK KITE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>The masts and spars may be of any light, strong wood, -the masts half an inch square and the yard-arms three-eighths -of an inch tapered towards the ends. The spars -and masts are bound securely with fine linen line as shown -in the junk kite-frame (Fig. 4). It would look well to cover -the sail-frames of all these boat kites with white or very -light-colored muslin and the hulls with dark-brown, green, -or black goods so as to lend contrast and make the kites -when in the air appear more like real boats.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Arrange the yoke to this kite as shown in the drawing -(Fig. 3), and add as many funnel-drags as may be found -necessary to steady this kite. Instead of placing these -wind-anchors close to the foot of the kite it is often better to -drop a cord five or ten feet with the funnel on the end of it. -While the funnel weighs but very little it is acted on by the -wind and is better than a heavy tail. As the wind blows -stronger the funnel is forced back and holds the wind, thereby -dragging on the foot of the kite and automatically shifting -it to different angles so that the wind will pass down -along the planes and out through the spaces underneath.</p> - -<h4 id='section_viii_3' class='c014'>The Schooner Kite</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The schooner kite (Fig. 5) is an attractive one when sailing -up in the wind, and for a kite the shape is very close -to a real schooner in proportions. The frame is built on a -deck-stick thirty-seven inches long, and six inches below it -is the keel-stick twenty inches long. The main-mast or aft-stick -is thirty-three inches long and the foremast is thirty -inches from tip to tip. The foremast is set in twelve inches -<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>from the bow end of the deck-stick and the main-mast is ten -inches from this. The gaffs are each nine inches long and -are caught to both mast and a top-stick, which is in turn -lashed fast to the upper part of each mast. Strings are run -from place to place on these sticks as shown at Fig. 6, then -the sails and hull are cut from muslin and sewed to the -strings and spars.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The yoke is composed of three strings as shown in the -drawing (Fig. 5), and from the muslin cut two pennants and -float them from the top of the masts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When up in the air this schooner kite will have a very real -appearance as the breeze will bulge the sails and give it the -effect of tacking on the wind. If the schooner is inclined to -pitch or roll too much attach two wind-anchors, one at the -foot of each mast, and pay them out about five or six feet.</p> - -<h4 id='section_viii_4' class='c014'>A Balloon Kite</h4> - -<p class='c015'>From four sticks and a long hickory rib the balloon kite-frame -(Fig. 7) is made. The cross-sticks are three feet and -three inches long and the uprights are each four feet long. -The uprights are set apart six inches at the foot and eleven -inches at the top, while the cross-sticks are twelve inches -apart at both sides of the frame. Where the sticks cross -they are to be lashed and bound with linen twine; then the -hickory rib is sprung into position and lashed fast at the -ends of the cross-sticks and upper ends of the vertical sticks. -A thong is to be bound to each end of the rib and drawn -down to the foot of the frame so that the curve over the top -formed by the hickory rib is even and symmetrical.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>Cover this frame with dark-gray or green paper muslin, -then make the car from a hoop fifteen inches in diameter -and a muslin funnel twenty inches deep. Suspend the car -on four strings attached to the foot of the kite, and having -arranged the yoke from the places where the sticks cross, as -shown in Fig. 8, this interesting sky-scraper will be ready -for an ascension.</p> - -<h4 id='section_viii_5' class='c014'>An Air-ship Kite</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The air-ship kite (Fig. 9), if large and well made, will -present a very realistic appearance when well up in the air.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The frame is made from dry spruce or pine sticks half an -inch square for the long ones and a trifle smaller for the -shorter ones. The frame as shown in Fig. 10 is seven feet -long from A to A, and at the middle the balloon is twenty-eight -inches—that is, from B to B. The middle upright -stick is four feet long and the end sticks C C that support -the car are forty-five inches long. The middle upright B B -is first lashed to the middle of the long stick A A. The -ends of the curved sticks are then brought together and -lashed to ends A A, and at the same time the unions are -made with sticks C C. After that the sticks between B -and C are set in place and securely lashed fast. The long -sticks D D, forming the top and bottom of the car, are four -feet and four inches long. One is lashed to the lower ends -of the three long drop-sticks and ten inches above that the -top one is made fast.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With thin spring or hard brass wire bind the forms of the -two occupants of the car and make them fast to sticks D D -with string. Then cover the entire balloon and car as well -<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>as the men with dark-colored paper muslin. Make the -yoke of linen thread so that the kite will balance well.</p> - -<div id='i_139' class='figcenter id021'> -<img src='images/i_139.jpg' alt='Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>THE SCHOONER, BALLOON, AND AN AIR-SHIP KITE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_viii_6' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>Bat-wing and Crown-top Kites</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Of the many odd shapes in which kites can be made -perhaps the bat-wing and crown-top are the most unique.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bat-wing (Fig. 11) is made up on a frame composed of -half-inch square sticks for the longest ones and three-eighths-inch -square ones for the cross-ribs. The two long sticks (Fig. -12, A A) are six feet and six inches, slightly tapered at the ends -and separated about eight inches. The long uprights B B -are four feet and three inches and are separated fifteen inches.</p> - -<p class='c011'>These two sets of sticks are lashed fast where they cross -and the horizontal ones are bound at the outer ends with -short sticks twelve inches in length. Fifteen inches up -from the bottom a cross-stick, C, four feet long is lashed -fast; then the shape is described with stout cotton or linen -cord. This frame is to be covered with muslin and sewed -at the edges, and when ready to fly it arrange the yoke as -shown in the illustration (Fig. 11).</p> - -<p class='c011'>The crown-top kite (Fig. 13) is three feet and six inches -wide, three feet high, and one foot across the bottom. -These sizes are for a kite of medium size; if a larger one is -desired it can be made five feet and three inches wide, four -feet and three inches high, and eighteen inches across the -foot. The sticks are from a quarter to half an inch square -and bound together with strong, thin cord (Fig. 14). Muslin -is the proper covering for this frame, but if thin, strong -paper is preferred it can be used to good advantage.</p> - -<h4 id='section_viii_7' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>Sandwich Islands Bird Kite</h4> - -<p class='c015'>One afternoon in the village of Paihiihi, on Maui, one of -the Sandwich Islands, I saw, at a considerable distance from -me, a curious object floating in the air and at first mistook -it for a large bird. It would glide about in graceful curves -or dart suddenly towards the ground only to soar upward -just as suddenly, or poise motionless save for a slight flapping -of its wings.</p> - -<p class='c011'>But my blissful ignorance was soon dispelled by the -laughter of a friend who assured me that I was gazing at -one of the kites of the cannibals—a name sportively applied -to a number of natives of the Gilbert Islands who immigrated -to Maui some time since. They are a more barbarous -people than the Hawaiians but seem to be amiable, -and I have never known them to eat anything <em>worse</em> than -a shark.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Wishing to see this new variety of kite, I started immediately -for the scene of action, and was soon in the midst of -a dozen or more men and women about half of whom had -kites, which were larger than I had supposed, being from -thirteen to fifteen feet wide and two to three feet high. -When I arrived several were floating high in the air almost -directly over the men who held the strings—sometimes, -indeed, sailing directly over them.</p> - -<p class='c011'>I watched for some time their graceful, birdlike motion -and then tried to buy one. They seemed loath to part with -them, however, and it was only after I had exhausted nearly -all my persuasive powers and all the small change in my -pockets that I succeeded in obtaining one. My awkward -<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>endeavors to carry it away with me were greeted with much -laughter until one of the cannibals showed me the proper -way to handle it.</p> - -<div id='i_142' class='figcenter id011'> -<img src='images/i_142.jpg' alt='Fig. 11, Fig. 12, Fig. 13, Fig. 14, Fig. 15, Fig. 16' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The drawings which I have made of one of these kites -will enable any enterprising boy to make one. As no tail -is used great care must be taken to make it perfectly symmetrical. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>It is also desirable to have the kite very light -and yet as stiff as possible.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The proper construction of the frame is shown in Fig. 15. -The total width of this kite is thirteen feet and the height -at the middle is thirty-two inches. First cut the middle -stick C C thirty-two inches long and lay it on the floor of -a barn where a few nails can be driven in temporarily to -hold the sticks while bending them into the proper shapes. -Cut sticks D D, E E, and F F, and place them on the floor -either side of the middle one. The long, straight stick A A -is twelve feet in length, of half-inch basswood or pine, and -slightly tapered with a plane at both ends. Lash this to -each of the cross-sticks, then with a long stick bend the -bow around nails driven in the floor as indicated by the dots -under the bow-piece in Fig. 15.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This bow-piece is half an inch square and tapered with a -plane at both ends. It would be well to pour boiling water -on this stick for a distance of three feet at both ends, so as -to make it easier to bend. Leave it in this position for a -few hours until the water dries out and the wood is shaped, -then lash the top ends of the cross-sticks to the bow-piece.</p> - -<p class='c011'>While bending the bow the two lower sticks may be -shaped at the same time. They should be of hickory or -birch and tapered at the outer ends. These must be shaped -over nails the same as the bow-piece, then when they are -dry they are to be lashed to all the cross-ribs and the ends -of the bow with fine linen line. The cross-sticks need not -be more than three-eighths of an inch square, but the middle -and top sticks should be half an inch thick for strength. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>Draw cross-strings from the top and lower ends of sticks -D D, as shown in Fig. 15, to act as braces; then cover the -frame with thin, strong paper or muslin, sewing it fast to -the ribs with linen thread. The construction of the yoke -is clearly shown in Fig. 16.</p> - -<h4 id='section_viii_8' class='c014'>Box Kites</h4> - -<p class='c015'>High up in the air, much too high for the boys on the -ground to see the mechanical details, several queer-looking -but powerful kites, or “gigs,” were tugging at their strings -in a stiff breeze. When these flying-gigs were hauled -down a big crowd of boys gathered to see them at close -range, and here are the pictures of them as well as the -plan-drawings showing how they are made. Any bright -boy can easily follow these plans and produce equally good -and powerful kites.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The construction of the box kite is shown in Fig. 17, -where the oblong measures thirty-six inches high and twenty-four -inches wide. These oblongs are held apart at the top -and bottom by sticks A A which measure twelve inches in -length. At the middle of the framework the corner sticks -B B are braced with two cross-sticks C, which are notched -at the ends, so that the inside corners of the sticks B B will -fit snugly and can be securely held with a slim steel-wire -nail. This frame is made of light pine sticks about three-eighths -or half an inch square.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Eight inches below the top of the frame tie a cord, and -nine inches below this tie another one to the front upright -sticks as shown at D D. Cover the front, sides, and back -<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>of the frame with strong, thin Manila paper or light, closely -woven muslin, having the top and bottom open, also the -space at the front between the strings D D. A yoke caught -at the top corner of the box, as shown in Fig. 18, will be -sufficient in a light breeze, but for a strong wind add another -from the side-sticks where the top or bottom cord D is tied; -this will steady the flying-box and prevent its pitching.</p> - -<div id='i_145' class='figcenter id022'> -<img src='images/i_145.jpg' alt='Fig. 17, Fig. 18, Fig. 19, Fig. 20' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>The “paralleloplane” is another powerful kite which is -easily constructed according to the plan shown in Fig. 19. -The front frame is thirty-six inches high and twenty-four -inches wide and braced with cross-sticks H H. The rear -frame is forty-four inches long and fifteen inches wide and -is held in place ten inches behind the large frame with sticks -I I. Strings are tied to the top and bottom cross-sticks of -the large frame, and eight inches apart, as shown at J J, to -which one end of the paper or muslin is made fast. Fig. 20 -will show the three fields covered with cloth or paper, and -when the paralleloplane is in the air the space between -the front planes admits the wind to the rear plane with the -extending tail, which tips the kite to the proper angle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If these kites need balancing in very strong breezes, a yoke -at the bottom of the kites from which a long string may be -suspended will take some paper cross-bars, as shown in Fig. -21, or the wind-anchors can be used. One or two of them -may be hung from the bottom on a long string or one at -each lower end of the paralleloplane.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A messenger that will travel and travel fast is shown in -Fig. 22, and as they are very easy to make a number of them -should be prepared for use. Two thin sticks twelve inches -long form the top and bottom yards for a strip of muslin -or paper six inches wide. From the four ends some thin -wire such as florists use is connected with a cork about -twelve inches in the rear of the sail, where it is bound -fast with a few wraps of the wire. A pin is passed through -the middle of the top yard to the sail and is bent over forming -<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>a hook, and in the cork another one is arranged in a -similar manner. The messenger can be hung on the string, -and if there are no knots to intercept its progress it will -quickly speed away to the kite.</p> - -<div id='i_147' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_147.jpg' alt='Fig. 21, Fig. 22' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_viii_9' class='c014'>The Flying-wedge and Double-plane Kite</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Flying-wedge or double-plane kites are made in several -shapes and sizes with the planes arranged at different angles -and in broken surfaces.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The flying-wedge is an interesting gig to make and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>hold when up, for it is a strong puller. Its construction is -shown in Fig. 23, and like the box kite the frame is made of -half-inch pine sticks. The front frame is forty inches high -and twenty-four inches wide, and the rear one two inches -longer but the same width. The frames are attached at the -top but held apart at the bottom by the sticks E E, which -are eighteen inches long. Twelve inches below the top a -cross-stick F is attached, and from the side-sticks down to -the centre of the bottom cross-stick the sticks G G are made -fast. Strings may be substituted for these sticks but they -will not brace the framework so well. Diagonally across -the back frame and at the bottom strings are made fast to -brace the frame, while the back ones also help to relieve the -strain of the wind on the paper or muslin drawn across the -framework. Figure 24 will show the fields covered with paper -or muslin, which are arranged so the wind passing through -the triangular opening in front presses against the back plane -and out at the sides and bottom, while some of it is forced -up in the top behind the upper plane and helps in the lifting -power. Small flags on sticks at the top add to the appearance -of this flying-wedge which is an exceedingly unique -sky-scraper.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The double-plane kite (Fig. 25) is another form of the -wedge. The general plan and sizes for the frame of this -wedge tally with those just given, but the slight changes in -the arrangement of sticks can be seen in Fig. 26.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The plane at the front is just half the height of the kite, -and at the back it would be well to use two cross-sticks from -corner to corner as braces rather than string as suggested -for the flying-wedge. Use paper muslin for the covering -<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>and stretch it taut; then sew it fast. Rig up two small flags -on sticks for the top corners and arrange the yoke as shown -in Fig. 25. If the wedge is inclined to wobble or dive hang -two wind-anchors on the corners, preferably the front, as the -action will be better than if hung at the back.</p> - -<div id='i_149' class='figcenter id023'> -<img src='images/i_149.jpg' alt='Fig. 23, Fig. 24, Fig. 25, Fig. 26' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The wind strikes the front plane and upper part of rear -<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>bevelled plane, also the outer edges of the rear plane, and in -this manner a double kite is made that will be found a strong -and steady puller.</p> - -<h4 id='section_viii_10' class='c014'>Kite-reels</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Kite-reels are always useful things to help haul in long -lengths of string, and particularly if the kite is a strong -puller and in a stiff breeze.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A reel for kites with a good pull is shown in Fig. 27, and -a boy with a hammer, a saw, and a few nails can quickly put -it together from some box-boards sawed in two-inch strips. -The reel is made of two thin boards half an inch in thickness, -cut circular with a compass-saw, and the hub is shaped from -an old rolling-pin that perhaps has been discarded from the -kitchen. It is impossible to give exact sizes owing to the -possible difference in the lengths of rolling-pins, but the -round sides should be at least six inches in diameter and -placed twelve inches apart. One end of the pin, or the -handle, should be sawed and cut square so a crank may be -cut and nailed to it as shown at A in Fig. 28. From wood -seven-eighths of an inch thick cut the crank B, and attach a -handle to the outer end of it. Bore a hole with a bit in the -end that fits over the axle, and with a compass-saw or small -chisel cut the hole square so that the axle will fit snugly into -it. The flanges are to be made fast to the ends of the rolling-pin -hub with nails or screws, and this revolving barrel is -hung in the inverted V-shaped frame of the reel. To hold -this reel down when winding in a line make several hard-wood -stakes as shown at C. These are cut out with a saw; -and to protect the head and prevent it from splitting off, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>bore two small holes through the head as indicated by the -dotted lines and slip steel-wire nails through them. Place -burrs over the pointed ends, cut the ends off, and with a -light hammer rivet the nail-ends down on the burrs so as to -bind the head securely. This is much better than winding -wire about the head, since the nails act as pins and will -prevent the head from splitting while the stake is being -driven into the ground. The overhanging end of the head -laps on the end cross-plates forming the platform of the -reel, and two or three at the end opposite that at which the -string is being hauled in will hold the reel securely to the -ground.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Another form of reel is shown in the illustration of a -chest-reel (Fig. 30). This is made from two flat, good barrel-hoops, -some braces, and the reel and shaft as described in -Fig. 28 A and B.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two good, broad barrel-hoops are selected and cut so that -they will measure eighteen inches on the segment or twelve -inches across the line A A in Fig. 29. Two out-riggers B B -are cut from pine or white-wood ten inches long, two inches -wide, and three-quarters of an inch thick; these are bevelled -at the end towards the hoop, where they are made fast with -screws. The outer ends of these sticks are bound with the -stick C, and near the inner ends and close to the hoop a -binder-piece D is fastened with screws.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The reel should be made first and clamped in place when -the frame is put together. The lower hoop is made fast to -the short upright pieces C C, shown in Fig. 30, and braced -to the main out-riggers B B with bracket-strips. All the -unions are made with screws or long copper rivets securely -<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>fastened at the blunt end with burrs over which the copper -end is beaten and riveted.</p> - -<div id='i_152' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_152.jpg' alt='Fig. 27, Fig. 28, Fig. 29, Fig. 30, Fig. 31, Fig. 32, Fig. 33' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Near the hoop-ends holes are to be made with a bit -through which stout cotton line can be passed and made -fast so as to tie the reel to a boy’s body (Fig. 30). The -hoop-end should be bound with linen line at either side of -the hole so as to prevent the hoop splitting and the lashing-thongs -tearing away. This is a very convenient form of -portable reel and is easily carried about without having to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>touch it. A friction-brake can be made from a piece of sole-leather -that will bear against the edge of one large end of -the reel so that when paying out cord it may be regulated -as the kite draws on it.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Leather or metal washers should be placed between the -reel-ends and the frame that the axle is hung in so as -to prevent friction and the consequent wearing of the -wood.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 31 shows a simple, home-made box-reel that will wind -up a thousand feet of line in short order. It consists of a -box, to which the cover is hinged, and two sprocket-wheels -from an old bicycle. One large one has a handle for turning -it, the other, a smaller wheel, is fastened firmly to a spindle -(Fig. 32) that runs through the box. The box is of pine or -white-wood fourteen inches long inside measure, eight inches -wide, and ten inches deep. The wood may be from one-half -to seven-eighths of an inch thick, and the points should be -made with glue and nails or screws to hold them securely -and prevent the box from racking.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Find two old sprocket-wheels and a piece of bicycle chain -and make the wheels fast to iron axles that will pass through -holes made in the sides of the box. The ends of these axles -should be threaded and provided with a nut so as to hold -the axles in place when run through the box.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The arrangement of these wheels and the chain is clearly -shown in the illustration of a box-reel (Fig. 31). The large -wheel should be attached to an axle and one of the pedal-cranks -made fast to it. Instead of the pedal a wooden -handle will slip on the pedal axle where it can be secured -by the nut that held the pedal in place. The relative positions -<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>of wheels, axles, and other parts of this reel can be -seen at Fig. 33. A represents the crank, handle, and large -wheel; B the axle that passes through the box; C the axle -and flanges made fast to the small sprocket-wheel; and D -shows how the wooden roller-wheels are arranged over the -slot in the box so that the string can be drawn in without -its touching the edge of the slot. The edges should be flared -at the under side so that the cord will wind on a fat reel -without touching the wood as shown at E.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two wooden flanges should be cut from thin wood and -made fast to the axle C to prevent the cord winding on the -axle close to the box and thereby clogging its action. -Leather washers separate the flanges and the boxes so as to -reduce the possibility of friction.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The slot cut in the top of the box should be as long as the -available winding-space on the axle, and protecting it at -both sides are rollers cut from one-inch curtain-poles or -broom-sticks. Steel-wire finishing-nails are driven in the -end of each one, taking care to get the nail exactly in the -middle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Bend two L-pieces from stout sheet-iron, and having -punched or drilled holes in the right place through the upright -ear, make these bearings fast to the top of the box -with screws as shown at D in Fig. 33. By turning the box -slightly from side to side when winding in the string, the -incoming line will travel from end to end of the slot so -that the coil on the shaft will be equally thick from flange -to flange.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A leather trunk-handle may be made fast to one end of -the box for convenience in carrying.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>This form of direct gearing with sprocket-wheels and -chain makes it impossible for the cord-shaft to slip as it will -do in the grooved wheel and string or leather-belt connections. -It is simple and sure and quite as easy to pay out -from as to wind in with.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span> -<h3 id='chapter_ix' class='c016'>Chapter IX<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>FISHING-TACKLE</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_ix_1' class='c014'>Choice of Tackle</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>Every</span> boy knows how to go a-fishing, but an intelligent -boy is not long in learning that the mere getting -of a lot of fish is a small part of the pleasure. That is why -he prefers the rod to the seine, one big fish to many smaller -ones, one cunning old trout or pickerel outwitted to a basket -of stupid fish that contended for the bait. Presently he -begins to desire more delicate tackle, and understands that -he is fishing for sport, not fish. I take it that the whole art -and mystery of angling is how to get the most sport and -enjoyment out of it. But how?</p> - -<p class='c011'>To begin with, no one will destroy a fish which is not -dangerous to man, nor will he fish just for amusement; in -other words, he fishes only for desirable fish. The chief -things that make a fish desirable, in the sense of a game or -sport fish, are that it shall be good food, not too common and -not too easily caught. If, besides, it be beautiful and found -in beautiful places so much the better. It happens that by -common consent certain fish—salmon and trout and their -kindred—are in Europe and America esteemed above all -others, and the opportunity to angle for them is not open -<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>to every one, and most boys must get their sport with other -less-esteemed kinds. “Boys’ fish” they are sometimes -slightingly called, but they have lots of sport to give to the -boy who knows how to get it, and he will get more sport -if he takes pains to make the fish better worth catching and -better worth having after it is caught. It is better worth -having, for instance, if you have caught it from the cleanest -water you have access to. Clean water makes sweet fish. -If a fish is to be kept kill it at once by a blow upon the back -of the head where the backbone joins it. This is not only -more merciful but makes firmer meat. If one is fishing from -a boat or not moving about much the fish may be kept alive -in a floating live-box or basket, and at the end of the fishing -the best may be chosen for keeping and the rest let go. -Fish are sweeter, too, if cleaned as soon as possible; besides, -the cleaning is done more easily if done early. Learn to do -it well yourself, and try to be at home in time to do it before -supper. Cleaning fish by candle-light goes far to spoil the -sport of a pleasant day. Do not clean fish with your pocket-knife. -Have in your kit a stout one for the purpose which -will also cut bait. Such knives made expressly are sold for -a small sum, but a veteran kitchen-knife or a broken table-knife -if kept in order will do excellent service.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Do not throw your fish in the dirt nor let them lie in the -sun nor string them upon a twig or line if you wish them -to be sweet. Have a basket with a cover, even if the cover -be no more than a newspaper. Wash this basket and dry -and air it in the sunshine if you can after every using. All -these things you should do if you wish what you catch to -be as good as it can be.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>Now, how are you to increase the sport of the catching? -Of course you want the largest fish and these are usually the -oldest and the most wary. This wariness you do not expect -to change, but you hope to defeat it. Study the habits of the -fish, where and when and upon what it feeds or what it -seeks. Let your fishing be governed by your discoveries. -And while you are offering him what he wants and when and -where he wants it, remember these old fellows are fussy -about their table-service. They do not feel hungry if a boy -throws his shadow across their table, or shakes it by rushing -up to it. Stalk your fish, then, as quietly as you are able, -and if you have alarmed it in any way stay out of sight and -remain as quiet as possible for a long time until your clumsiness -is forgotten, and then let your lure, whether bait or fly, -drift into the fish’s sight as if you had nothing to do with it. -And remember that the finer your tackle the more likely -this pretence will be to succeed.</p> - -<p class='c011'>You want also as good a fight as you can get. Remember -that the fighting qualities of fish are as a rule best developed -in those which live in rapid and turbulent water, and in those -which pursue their prey and catch it by their own nimbleness. -But any fish will fight better if you make the struggle -more even by using delicate tackle. You win then only by -dexterity of handling, which is one of the great charms of -angling, and about the only one, as regards the mere catching -of fish, on which the experienced angler sets much value. -The secret of success with delicate tackle may be told in two -words—care and coolness. Care in the preparation of the -tackle, coolness in handling it.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When you put your tackle together you will make it far -<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>safer if you consider it as one apparatus or machine from -hook to reel and if you let the rod top, or “tip,” be the -weakest point of all, because by it you can best determine -the strain upon the whole gear. For instance, a good line -for fresh-water fishing will usually lift at least ten pounds, -a good snell at least three pounds if new, the hook more -than the snell, while the top of an ordinary light rod will -rarely bear more than two pounds of dead weight, so that -you may know by the strain upon the top joint just what -the tackle is bearing; and if the joint is safe the whole is -likewise safe.</p> - -<p class='c011'>By testing your tackle you raise your fishing from a rough-and-ready -guesswork to something like certainty, the one -point of doubt being always the security of the hook in the -fish’s mouth, and even of this you soon acquire the power of -judging. But this testing is not done once for all. Good -tackle which is put away wet to mildew, or gut which is -frayed or put in the sun to rot, does not long remain sound. -Therefore dry your line, carefully unwinding it from the -reel if you have one and winding it upon a chair-back, for -instance, when you come home. Look over and test your -tackle every time you are going fishing—yes, and every time -it gets caught on a stone or stump or in the bushes—if you -wish to escape the loss of your best fish. All this means -that tackle to be safe must be sound—that is, good all -through. A line, for instance, which is strong in one place -and weak in another will give you more trouble than one -which is not so strong but uniform.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The strain upon the tackle is equalized by the elasticity -of the rod, which to some extent makes up for want of dexterity. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>But never have a rod so flexible that it will not -control the tackle, and, above all, avoid one which is weak -in the middle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Lastly, let the fish do the pulling if you wish to safely -handle it. No angling-tackle is as strong as a boy. But -if the rod be so held that its spring keeps the line taut and -a gentle, steady pull upon the fish the latter soon exhausts -himself fighting this elasticity. Any excess of line not easily -controlled by the rod alone should be at once taken up by -the reel. Draw the tired fish out gently, without “yanking,” -or if heavy lead it into the landing-net.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Rods vary according to the kind of fishing, and the “all-round” -fisherman will probably have, without being finicky, -as many rods as a golf-player has clubs. But the boy for -whom this is written must make his pocket-money go as far -as possible, and he will probably have but one. Rod-making -is an interesting amusement, but it would better be deferred -until one knows fairly well the use of a rod and just what -kind he wants. The making of rods is not very economical, -since nowadays factories turn out really good ones at -prices little above what one must pay for reliable rod-wood. -Roughly speaking, there are two kinds of rods, bait-rods and -fly-rods. Bait-rods are nearly always stiffer than fly-rods; -the latter must have sufficient flexibility and elasticity to -throw a line quite a distance, often several times the length -of the rod. But in choosing a bait-rod a different selection -will be made according to the particular sort of fishing within -reach. Thus if one fishes ponds or wide streams from the -bank, a rod a dozen feet long would not be too long; but if -from a boat, a shorter rod not above ten feet will be more -<span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>convenient. Still, shorter rods are better if bait is to be cast -long distances, as is done in minnow-casting or some kinds of -sea-fishing. A jointed-rod is convenient for carrying, but if -one lives within walking or driving distance of his fishing a -rod in one piece, such as is easily made from a slender bamboo -with an elastic tip of good wood spliced on, is as good for bait-fishing -as any. If besides bait-fishing one desires to use the -fly, then the best rod is a rather stout fly-rod about ten feet in -length, because it can be used for bait-fishing, while a bait-rod -cannot be used to cast a fly.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Beautiful and excellent rods are made of split bamboo, -and some of moderate cost, but avoid very cheap ones. But -for beginners’ use the writer prefers a solid-wood rod of good -quality, because it is less liable to injury and because of the -greater ease with which it is repaired; the boy himself may -do it if he be handy. Whatever rod you have, let the line-guides -be of the sort known as “standing-guides” rather -than rings, if you have the choice.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Lines should be sound and strong but not too heavy for -the rod; twisted lines are more easily found of good quality -but braided lines kink less. Twenty yards are quite enough -for any fishing of the kind we are considering and half as -much would usually suffice. In fly-fishing for large trout -or bass the reel usually carries forty to fifty yards.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Hooks should be of the best quality to be had. Good -hooks are still practically all made in England. Shapes -which have received names are many, and most of them -have advantages for particular kinds of fishing. Among -the best are O’Shaughnessy, Limerick, Sneckbend, Aberdeen, -and Sproat. The last-named we think will meet more -<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>kinds of need than any other one. As to size it should be -remembered that the hook is to fit the bait, not the fish’s -mouth; a very small fish can take any ordinary hook.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A reel is not so absolutely necessary as the rod, line, and -hook, but it is a prime convenience. A well-made single-click -reel is better than any multiplier except for the one -matter of making long casts from the reel, which a beginner -is not likely to do.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For fly-casting a leader or casting-line of gut between -the fly and the main line is necessary for making a light -cast, but for ordinary bait-fishing the gut-snells which are -nowadays so generally sold attached to hook are bottom -line enough. If, however, you can get some white, gray, -or cream-colored hairs from the tail of a young stallion you -can make bottom lines or leaders for light fishing without -expense.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A gaudy float is pretty sure to form part of the first -angling outfit, and it is useful to keep the bait out of the -weeds and to notify the inexperienced angler that a fish is -biting. Choose one that is slender in shape and not large. -A dry stick makes a good enough extemporaneous float, and -if fish are shy may be better than a more showy one.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For sinkers split shot B B size and buckshot or strips of -thin lead, such as comes from tea-chests, wound around the -line are as good as any and very easily gotten.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Do not buy a bait-box. It is not so good as a bag with a -draw-string, which will allow your hand to be inserted and -will also close the aperture snugly. The same string will -serve to fasten the bag to your button-hole or creel-strap. -The bag is best made of flannel. Wash it after using.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>Worms are much better if dug a day or two before using -and “scoured” by putting them into soft moss wrung out -of water. They become brighter and firmer by scouring -and are more attractive to fish. If live minnows or small -fish are used for bait, of course they must be kept in water, -which must be changed from time to time. A pail is the -most convenient vessel to carry them in.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A landing-net is convenient if you fish for game which -is heavy in proportion to your tackle—say for fish upward -of a pound in weight with a light rod. Very low-priced -ones are now sold in the shops and sufficiently good ones -can be made at home.</p> - -<p class='c011'>We give no details about flies as their name is legion. A -beginner would better have but few kinds and of moderate -size; a few hackles will probably be all he needs.</p> - -<p class='c011'>There are a multitude of things sold in the tackle-shops -which are tempting but not at all necessary, not to mention -many which could have been devised only by a person who -was no angler. Those already spoken of are all that seem -essential.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ix_2' class='c014'>Bait-rods and Fly-rods</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Probably most boys are too sensible to fall into the error -which seems to beset many adults—namely, that the possession -of tackle makes an angler. It is necessary to know -how to use it.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Begin by putting your rod together properly; put the -tip into the middle first, and then the middle into the butt. -See that the ferrules are well “home” and that the guides -are all on the same side so that the line will run freely. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>Place the reel, if you have one, in the reel-seat and see that -the reel-bands are snug and will not slip. Then lead off the -lines through the rings and the tip-ring. These details are -the same whatever kind of fishing is in hand; the others depend -upon what is to be done.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Let us suppose that you are to fish with bait and that -bait a worm. If you have a short gut line—two or three -feet long—it will be well to fasten it to the end of the line -and to the other end of the gut attach the snell of the hook. -But when seeking many fish which are not very shy, the -snell may be fastened directly to the line. In fishing in a -gently moving stream no lead may be needed; if the current -be quick a little will probably be required to keep the -bait near the bottom. In pond-fishing or reaches of a -stream which are very quiet a float as well as lead may be -convenient. Some veteran anglers still enjoy the bobbing -of the float. The hook may be put into the side of the -worm as shown at A, or into the head as at B (Fig. 1). A is -rather more attractive to the fish; B more likely to be taken -in such a way as to insure that the hook is in the fish’s -mouth. When the worm is dead or has slipped down into -a bunch at the bend of the hook no fish that you want will -be likely to take it.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Now, do not make a splash when you put it into the water. -If you have to cast it out into still water do not use your -rod and line as if it were a thresher’s flail. Holding your -rod nearly straight up, give the line a gentle swing forward, -and when the bait has swung well out reach after it with the -rod so that the bait (and float, too, if there be one) shall fall -as lightly as possible. Do not be in too great a hurry to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>change its place. If you are fishing in running water, drop -the bait quietly into the water and so manage the rod that -it shall neither hasten nor hinder the movement of the bait, -which should travel as nearly as possible as it would if it -were not upon a hook. All the time you are to keep as -much as possible out of sight. When you feel the pluck of -the fish drop the point of your rod and wait a second or two -before you attempt to strike the hook into the flesh.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It sometimes happens that the place you wish to fish is so -encumbered with bushes that it cannot be approached. In -such a case, if you can find an opening in the bushes you may -get at the water by shortening the line and winding what is -left around and around the top of the rod. Then pass it -through the opening, and, reaching out over the water, roll -the rod over and over in the hands until the line is unwound -and the bait goes dropping down to the water, as a spider -lets himself down from his web. If you have a bite, give -the fish time to make sure of the bait. Strike, and, when -you can, shorten your line still farther if necessary and -draw your fish out.</p> - -<p class='c011'>On the other hand, if in a fairly open place you wish to -reach a point at some distance, you may throw your bait -out by pulling sufficient line from the reel, and, gathering it -in coils upon the left hand, swing the bait out with sufficient -force to carry the coils of line after it and so reach the -desired point.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To tell in a few words how to cast a fly is hardly practicable. -It is not done by force but by knack. A cast consists -of a back cast which carries the line upward and backward, -and a forward cast which propels it towards the desired spot. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>The knack consists in giving with the wrist such a quick -motion to the rod as shall set its elasticity to work, and this -carries the line. One must not thrash with the rod.</p> - -<p class='c011'>As useful a way as any to help the reader will be to -describe how the writer has tried to help lads who are -learning to cast. It is in this way: The boy takes the rod, -fitted with its reel and line only, to a water’s-edge free of -bushes or trees or to a lawn recently mowed. If the grass -is slightly damp all the better as it holds the line more nearly -as does the water. He pulls off from the reel enough line -so that the free part shall be once and a half or twice the -length of the rod. This he throws out in front of him as -well as he can. He then is told to keep his elbow close -against his side to prevent moving the arm above the elbow. -He then tries with a quick movement of the wrist, and with -as little movement of the forearm as possible, to lift the line -upward and backward until it straightens out behind him, -and then with another similar motion to make it go straight -out before him.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The accompanying drawing (Figs. 2 and 3) show how the -wrist and thumb really do all the work, and how little the -forearm really moves in good casting. They show, too, what -should be the limits of the motion in the butt of the rod. -If it goes farther back the back cast is apt to be low and the -line if not the rod may get into trouble in bushes or grass. -If it goes farther forward the line is apt to go down with a -splash.</p> - -<p class='c011'>After this restraint of motion has become habitual the -rule of holding the elbow against the side may be relaxed a -little, especially in making long casts.</p> - -<div id='i_167' class='figcenter id004'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span> -<img src='images/i_167.jpg' alt='Fig. 1 A, Fig. 1 B, Fig. 2, Fig. 3' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>HOOK-BAITING AND FLY-CASTING</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>Do not try to lift a sunken line suddenly from the water. -Coax it to the surface, as else the resistance of the line will -probably snap your rod.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Do not try to make the forward cast on just the same -plane as the back cast for fear that the end of the line -should snap like a whip-lash, which if you were actually -fishing would crack off your flies pretty certainly. Therefore -make the lift of the back cast with a slight sweep (generally -inward towards the body is the more natural), and -deliver the forward cast straight out towards its destination. -But always aim about your own height above the spot on -the water you mean to reach to insure the line falling lightly.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In all your practising remember that the key-note of good -casting is in getting a good, clean, high back cast, and in never -sending the line forward until it is quite straight out behind -and above you in the back cast. If you have with you some -one to guide you as to when it is straightened out it will -be a great gain, particularly as the time required for the -straightening varies with the length of line that is used.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Do not try to cast a long line until you have learned to -cast a short one well; and well means not only with a high -back cast and straight forward, but also accurately as to -aim and delicately.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ix_3' class='c014'>Repairs, Knots, and Splices</h4> - -<p class='c015'>As has been said already it hardly pays nowadays to -make one’s own tackle, at least for a beginner. But a few -things it is useful to know so that repairs and supplies of a -sort can be made in an emergency. But emergencies are to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>a great degree prevented by care—by cleaning and looking -over the rod and the reel whenever you come home, and -keeping it safe. The reel may need a drop of oil now and -then, and it should be always kept out of the dust, in a box -or drawer, and above all from falls or blows.</p> - -<div id='i_169' class='figcenter id024'> -<img src='images/i_169.jpg' alt='Fig. 4, Fig. 5' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The repairs most commonly called for are the splicing of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>a broken rod, the replacing a lost tip-ring or guide-ring, the -knotting of gut, and the putting a hook to gut. The repair-kit, -to use a cyclist’s phrase, consists of a piece of shoemaker’s -wax, some moderately stout sewing-silk—number A being -the best suited for quick work of all sorts—some bits of -flexible brass wire, and a pocket-knife. As the method of -wrapping used in all repairs is essentially the same let us -begin with the simplest, the putting the hook to gut.</p> - -<p class='c011'>First wax well a piece of silk half a yard or more in length. -Choose your hook and the piece of gut (or line if you do not -use gut) to which it is to be fastened. Take the bend of the -hook firmly between the left thumb and forefinger and with -the right take two or three turns of the silk about the other -end of the shank (Fig. 4 A). Then lay the gut on the under -side of the hook, reaching two-thirds down the shank, and -wind the silk snugly, coil against coil, over both hook and gut -towards the bend of the hook B. When the gut is nearly -covered make a loop as at C, but relatively larger than in the -figure and keep on winding so that the part <i>a</i> covers in not -only hook and gut but the part <i>b</i>, clearing the silk from the -bend of the hook at each turn. When four or five turns -have been taken draw on <i>c</i> and pull it snug. (D shows the -loop not quite drawn down.) When snug cut off the end -and you have the “invisible knot” or “whip-finish” universally -used by fishermen. The same whipping and finish -are used for the other repairs mentioned above.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Suppose that a joint of the rod has broken with a slanting -break. It may be that the surfaces can be fitted together -neatly. In this case they may be joined at once, but if any -part has been lost or broken away, then the broken surfaces -<span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>must be trimmed and smoothed with the knife until they -do fit. They are spliced thus: Rub the surfaces with your -shoemaker’s wax, press them together, and if you cannot -easily hold them, tie them temporarily with a piece of string, -or perhaps still better, make open coils over the joined parts -as at A in Fig. 4. Then wind back over these coils and the -joined parts, making close, snug coils just as you did on the -hook. The whip-finish must be managed a little differently. -Fig. 5 shows how this is done. When ready to finish drop -a loop and make four or five loose turns. Carry the end -under the beginning of the loop, wind down the loose coils -firmly, and pull the end through as before.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A lost tip-ring or guide-ring can be made good by a piece -of wire bent into proper shape and whipped on with well -waxed silk thread.</p> - -<p class='c011'>We need say but a few words about knots. In order to -knot your gut it must be first softened, which is done by -laying it in water; it softens much more rapidly in lukewarm -water than in cold. Two lengths of gut are joined -together by lapping the end of one by the end of the other -and making a knot in both together. Fig. 6 A shows -this knot, only the end is put through twice for greater -security. If the fishing is such as does not need strong -tackle a single knot will suffice.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A loop at the end of a piece of gut is made by making the -knot as at B, which is the commonly used knot.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A better knot is that shown at C, which looks complicated -as drawn, but really is not so, as in tying it the two loops <i>a</i> -and <i>b</i> are made, the end <i>c</i> laid between them, and then <i>b</i> is -drawn through <i>a</i>.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>D shows the ordinary simple method of fastening a line to -the loop of a leader or of a snell. It is the “becket hitch” -of the seaman. It explains itself. Its great advantage is -that it cannot slip if drawn down snugly and can be instantly -loosened by pushing the main line back a little way.</p> - -<div id='i_172' class='figcenter id025'> -<img src='images/i_172.jpg' alt='Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_ix_4' class='c014'>Aids for Young Anglers</h4> - -<p class='c015'>How often has it happened that on reaching a camping-ground, -hotel, or boarding-house near river or lake where -<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>pickerel, bass, and large perch abounded no provision is -found for the angler’s sport but a boat—no lines, sinkers, or -floats; no nets for catching live bait, and no bait but worms. -For sunfish, catfish, and small perch, worms are very fair -bait; but for pickerel, bass, and large perch live bait is best. -Here are some makeshifts and aids that may be gotten up -at short notice and at small expense.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 7 is an end-section of a mosquito-net seine for taking -live bait. The length of the seine is thirty-eight feet, depth -five feet. The “cork-line” A A consists of a small-sized -clothes-line. Corks not always being obtainable, I have used -pieces of thoroughly seasoned white pine three inches in -length and one inch in diameter (C C C). Through these -rounded pieces of wood holes are bored through which the -clothes-line passes. These floats are placed eight inches -apart and are kept in position by the clothes-line fitting -tightly in the holes. At the bottom of the seine another -clothes-line is sewed to the netting (B B). This is called the -“lead line” and is for the purpose of keeping the lower part -of the seine close to the bottom of the water. In the lead -line pieces of sheet-lead one inch in length are fastened -(H H H) twenty-eight inches apart. The “staff” D is a -well-seasoned piece of hickory six feet long, to the lower end -of which sheet-lead is also fastened at E to keep it down. -To the staff is attached the staff line F F F, thirty feet long, -which is for the purpose of drawing in the seine after it has -been cast.</p> - -<div id='i_174' class='figcenter id026'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span> -<img src='images/i_174.jpg' alt='Fig. 7, Fig. 8' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>A seine of this size is generally worked by two persons -and two boats. Each person takes one of the staff lines in -his boat, and rowing towards the shore with the extended -seine describes a semicircle between the boats. As the -shore is approached each boat closes in, thereby causing the -two staffs to meet and imprison all the fish that have come -within the bounds of the seine. When one person works -the seine one of the staff lines is tied to a rock or stake on -<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>the shore and the other line is taken into a boat, or the -operator wades out and causes his end of the seine to describe -a circle until the two shafts meet. Great care must -be taken to keep the lead line close to the bottom otherwise -the fish will escape. In the selection of the seining-ground -always avoid stony bottoms, snags, and brush, which will -cause the seine to “roll up” and tear.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The cost of the above-described seine ranges from three -to four dollars, and is capable of lasting two seasons if carefully -handled and spread out on the grass to dry after using -it. A much superior article to mosquito-net is bobinet, -which will last several seasons.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 8 is a bait-boat for keeping the bait alive. It is -towed behind or kept by the side when fishing. The top -and bottom pieces consist of half-inch pine; in the centre of -each piece square openings are cut; that on the top is protected -by a door made of wire-cloth or quarter-inch mesh -fastened to two small staples which answer the purpose of -hinges; over the opening in the bottom piece wire-cloth is -nailed to admit of a free circulation of water. Under the -back end of the top piece a cleat is nailed, also two cleats on -the bottom piece as shown in the drawing. At the bow of -the boat an upright piece of wood is fastened to the top and -bottom of the bait-boat by means of screws. The sides of -the boat consist of one piece of wire-cloth, the ends of which -meet at the upright piece of wood at the bow and are nailed -with broad-headed galvanized nails. The top and bottom -of the wire-cloth are also fastened with nails to the edges of -the top and bottom of the boat as shown in the drawing. -A tow-line is fastened to the bow and the boat is complete.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>When handling the bait a small hand-net (Fig. 9) is used, -consisting of a stout piece of wire as shown in the drawing. -The straight parts of the wire are bound together with -fishing-line and constitute the handle; to this frame netting -is sewed to form the net-bag.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For a makeshift float nothing is better than a good-sized -bottle-cork into which a cut has been made with a sharp -knife or razor extending from the side to the centre of the -cork. Into this cut the line is drawn as shown in Fig. -10 A.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Sheet-lead is always a useful aid in makeshift fishing-tackle, -and for light lines makes excellent sinkers when bent -and compressed around the line as shown at Fig. 10 B.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For cleaning out a boat a stiff whisk-broom made of fine -birch twigs bound together with wire or fishing-line, as -shown at Fig. 11, will be found very useful.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 12 A and B are hand-made sinkers beaten and -carved out of old lead pipe. The carved one, B, is first -roughed out with a jack-knife and finished up with fine -emery or sand paper. A is beaten into shape with a railroad -spike on an anvil or smooth stone. This beating and -carving of lead is very pleasant work, the lead being of such -an easy and good-natured temper.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For a cheap and easy-obtainable bailer make use of an -empty tomato or corned-beef can as shown in Fig. 13. A -hole sufficiently large to admit of the handle is punched in -the side of the can; the inside of the handle is chamfered -off so as to fit close to the inner side of the can. Through -the can and into the end of the handle a stout nail is driven -as at A.</p> - -<div id='i_177' class='figcenter id027'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span> -<img src='images/i_177.jpg' alt='Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 11, Fig. 12 A, Fig. 12 B, Fig. 13, Fig. 14' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>SOME USEFUL HINTS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>A good bait for large fish is a strip cut from the under side -of a small pickerel, perch, or sunfish, which is placed on the -hook as shown in Fig. 14.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ix_5' class='c014'>Baits, and Where to Find Them</h4> - -<p class='c015'>As a rule, the young fisherman naturally considers the -angle-worm to be the only bait he need have when he goes -fishing, and, taking a spade, he seeks a moist, loamy spot in -the garden and proceeds to fill his box. But there is a -choice even in worms, and those of a clear, dark, amber -color are the best.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Just at night, and after a soft, warm rain, worms of the size -of a lead-pencil will be found crawling over the ground. -These are excellent bait for bass, chub, perch, and large -trout early in the season. If you step very lightly, so as -not to jar the ground, you can easily pick up a box of these -large fellows.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is well enough to have worms with you on all occasions, -but there are many other baits. Frogs, crabs, grubs, dobsons, -minnows, June-bugs, grasshoppers, and crickets, as -well as artificial baits, are more successful lures with certain -fish. A few words telling where to find these baits and the -proper manner of keeping them fresh and lively may prove -of value.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Frogs are most plentiful on the shores of ponds or streams -filled with plant growth, and in low, moist places in meadows. -In searching for them in grass, wait till you see one jump, then -catch it in your hands. They are not so easily gotten from the -shores, as they are apt to take to the water at the first alarm.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>Crabs are usually found under stones along the shores of a -stream or pond, and in some localities in low, moist places in -grass-lands. Seize the crab back of the pincers and it cannot -nip you.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Dobsons are only found under mossy stones in swift-running -waters. They are of a dark-gray color, have many legs, -and when fully grown are about three inches long. The -head is shield-shaped and armed with good, stout pincers, so -handle the dobson as you would a crab. The best way to get -a supply of dobsons is to have some one hold one edge of a -fine-meshed net on the bottom of the stream while you turn -over the stones above the net with a hoe. The dobsons, -loosing their hold on the bottom, will be carried by the current -into the net. Put frogs, crabs, and dobsons into a pail -with plenty of grass and some water. If you are to keep -them for some time change the water occasionally.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Grubs are excellent bait for trout early in the season. -They are found in partially decayed tree-trunks, stumps, -and old timbers left in moist places. Cut into the wood -with an axe, and if you find it full of holes of the size of a -lead-pencil, knock it to pieces and pick out the grubs. Put -them in a tin bait-box with some of the rotten wood you -found them in.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Minnows of a size suitable for perch and bass fishing can -usually be procured from a spring hole or the pools of a -small stream. Take a rather baggy net with a small mesh, -and after setting it at one end of the pool drive the minnows -into it by striking on the water with a pole and punching -about on the bottom. If you stir up the water the little fish -will drive more easily. If your supply must be procured -<span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>from a lake or pond, look among the shallows close inshore -until you have found a school, then draw a small seine -around them. Large minnows for pickerel or pike fishing -can be caught with a hook and line. Those you are to use -for skittering had better be packed in salt. The minnows -you would keep alive should be put into the bait-pail as -soon as caught. Bait-pails, as usually made, consist of one -pail freely perforated with holes to be set into a tight outer -pail. By this arrangement the water can be changed frequently -without inconveniencing the little fellows. If the -bait is to be carried some distance, and there is no chance to -change the water, pack the space between the two pails -loosely with grass. The water trickling down through the -grass will take up the air needed by the fish.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Crickets are to be found under stones, loose sods, and old -planks. Select the largest you can find. June-bugs, sometimes -called May-bugs, hide through the heat of the day -among the leaves of the trees, and sometimes by shaking a -tree quite a number will fall to the ground. Grasshoppers -are plentiful in meadow and pasture lands, and may easily -be caught in the hands. Put June-bugs, crickets, and grasshoppers -in a wide-mouthed bottle loosely stuffed with grass. -Do not cork the bottle tight.</p> - -<p class='c011'>I never esteemed artificial baits, such as the rubber frog -and crab, very highly. It is impossible to give the semblance -of life to them in the water, and most game fish prefer live -food to dead. The spoon-hook and the artificial fly, however, -have proved their worth. The spoon should be of a -size in keeping with the size of the game fished for, and it is -well enough to have two—one bright, for use early in the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>morning and late in the afternoon and on dark days, the -other dull-colored for use in the brightest part of the day. -It is an excellent plan to bait a spoon-hook with a large -worm, a minnow, or a piece of meat; then if the fish strikes -and misses the hook it may get a portion of the bait and -will strike again with truer aim.</p> - -<p class='c011'>There are many other things that can be used for bait, -which are to be found only in your locality. What they are -you can learn by observation and experiment. One can -always learn something. Only recently I discovered that -bass were fond of darning-needles.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Sometimes the fish have very fickle appetites, and it is -well to have as many kinds of bait as you can conveniently -carry. It is also a good plan to open the stomach of the -first fish you catch, and offer to its companions the same -kind of food found inside of it.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ix_6' class='c014'>A Trap for Small Fish</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Many of the boys and girls who live near the sea-side are -interested in making and stocking aquariums, and many, no -doubt, have experienced the same difficulty which I did when -I used to stock aquariums myself.</p> - -<p class='c011'>I always found that the scoop-net which we use to catch -the fish with is good enough for certain kinds of minnows, -but there are others which are too lively or too shy to be -caught in that way; so I set to work to devise some plan -for their capture. I claim no originality for this trap—it is -hundreds of years old; but as it answered my purpose better -than anything else, I used it. The way I made it was as follows:</p> - -<div id='i_182' class='figcenter id028'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span> -<img src='images/i_182.jpg' alt='Fig. 15, Fig. 16, Fig. 17' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>I took a piece of wire-netting about three feet square and -bent it so as to form a tube three feet long and about one -foot in diameter (Fig. 15). I then took two other strips of -wire-netting, three feet long at the top, one foot wide, and -two feet at the bottom (Fig. 16); these I bent into funnel -<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>shape. I sewed one funnel in about the middle of my cylinder -and another in one end, as shown in Fig. 15, strengthening -them in their position with strings from the small ends -to the sides of the cylinder. The other end of the cylinder -I closed with a piece of strong bagging so sewed on that there -was a space left at one side which could be untied when I -wished to empty the trap.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The manner of setting the trap is as simple as its manufacture. -A handful of clams or mussels, crushed so that the -minnows can get at the flesh, is thrown in between the first -and second funnels. The fish, little crabs, small eels, and -the like, go in, and when they try to get out they find it much -easier to swim through the second funnel than to find the -small hole in the first. I have had several of these traps, or -“pots,” as the fishermen call them, in operation at one time, -and have caught as many as half a bushel of small fish in -one night.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The trap can be made by making a frame of hoops and -lath and covering it with mosquito-netting, but it is not so -desirable as the fine wire, being more easily torn.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ix_7' class='c014'>A Water-turtle Trap</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Some time ago, while spending the summer in the country, -I began the pleasing amusement of making an aquarium. -I used various methods to procure the inmates of the great -glass box which I had made for the purpose, and was successful, -except that I could not get a water-turtle. There they -would lie on logs in the pond sunning themselves, but the -moment I came within reaching distance, plump they would -<span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>go into the water. At last I took an old soap-box, and after -carefully removing one end I nailed on the cover. I then -fastened the end to the cover by hinges, so that it would -swing inward, and after throwing in a few bones and scraps -of meat, I sunk the box in the pond close beside a big log -where the turtles were accustomed to sun themselves. I -put a heavy stone on the box, so as to keep it steady, and -awaited the next morning for developments. Fig. 17.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Here I may say that this trap takes advantage of a peculiarity -in the nature of the water-turtle—namely, if there -is a log or stone that he cannot get under, that is just the -place that he wants to get; and I calculated that the slight -resistance offered by my swinging door would be just enough -to make the turtles determined to get into my box. The -next morning when I went to my trap I found several turtles -of all sizes, from one tiny, yellow-spotted fellow, or mud-turtle, -not larger than a half-dollar, to an ugly, great snapper as -big as your hat, and so ill-tempered that I let him go again, -glad enough at having got rid of so troublesome a visitor. -After that I set my trap several times and caught a number -of turtles. The smaller ones furnish a charming addition to -an aquarium, and the larger ones, if properly dressed, make -a capital stew.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ix_8' class='c014'>An Eel-pot</h4> - -<p class='c015'>All along the Atlantic coast eel-pots are made on the -same general plan, a bottle-shaped basket having a funnel -fitted at the bottom and provided with a hat that is held -on by two straps of green oak.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Three forms are used on which to build up the basket-work. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span>The large form is usually ten inches in diameter and -shaped down to eight inches at the top or neck. This form -is two feet long and has a round stick driven in the small -end. This in turn rests in a hole bored in a solid piece of -plank, so that it is held in an inverted position and revolves -in the hole. Green oak is used for the ribs and bands. -This is cut as straight and free from knots as possible, and -is soaked in water for weeks before it is split and slivered. -Green oak will sliver in an even and uniform manner if it is -started right, and from the trunk of an oak-tree six inches -in diameter enough material can be had to make several -dozen eel-pots. The ribs are three-quarters of an inch -wide and about one-eighth of an inch thick, while the bands -are a trifle thinner and wider. A number of the ribs are -tied around the form as shown in Fig. 18, and beginning at -the bottom the bands are woven in and out around the form, -turning it as the work progresses so that the immediate parts -are always in sight. Where the ends join they are shaved -down thin so that one laps over the other; then the weaving -continues until the top is reached. The ends of the ribs -are then shaved thin and bent back and slipped under some -of the straps. A thin ribbon of the oak is sewed over and -over around the edge to finish it. The top or small end of -the basket is finished in a similar manner.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The cone or funnel form is fifteen inches long, nine inches -in diameter at the large end, and tapers down to two inches -at the bottom as shown in Fig. 19. Ribs are tied to this -form the same as in the case of the large one, and the weaving -begins at the bottom and is carried to the top, where the -ends of the ribs are shaved and turned in as before described. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>The bottom or small end of the funnel is the trap, and here -the long, thin ends of the ribs are left, so that the eel, when -he goes through the funnel and into the pot, cannot get -back again.</p> - -<div id='i_186' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_186.jpg' alt='Fig. 18, Fig. 19, Fig. 20, Fig. 21, Fig. 22, Fig. 23, Fig. 24' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The hat is woven the same as a basket by crossing the -ribs and adding a half-rib from the centre anywhere on the -circle, so as to make an uneven number of ribs; thus the -weaving will not duplicate after the first turn around the -circle. This extra rib is shown at A in Fig. 20. A hat form, -shown in Fig. 21, is made of wood and mounted on a block -<span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span>so that it will revolve the same as the other forms. When -a part of the hat is woven it is placed on the form and two -small nails driven through the ribs into the form to hold the -weaving in place. It is then shaped down over the rounded -edges of the form and carried one or two inches below the -form so the lower edges of the ribs can be shaved and bent -easily. A long strap of the green oak is passed under one -of the ribs in the hat and caught under bands of the body as -shown in the drawing of a complete eel-pot. Fig. 22.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The funnel is sewed to the bottom edge of the body with -thin bands. As soon as the pots are finished they should -be sunk in shallow water to keep them wet and get them -thoroughly water-soaked.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Stakes or poles are to be driven or worked down into the -bottom of the bay and the eel-pots made fast to them with -ropes. To bait an eel-pot crack some hard-shell crabs or -shrimp or put some pieces of fresh, raw meat within the pot -and drop it overboard. Run the pots morning and night, -and remove the eels by unstrapping the cap and dumping -them into a barrel which may be carried on the boat.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ix_9' class='c014'>A Scap-net</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A scap-net for crabbing or landing fish on a hook may -be made from a ring of heavy galvanized iron driven into -the end of a hard-wood stick. Scap-nets may be purchased -in most any general store near a bay or pond, but the ingenious -boy can make one himself from a hoop and a ball -of cotton twine. Hang long pieces of string over the ring -and tie them fast with a square knot. Then tie one string -<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>with its next neighbor all around the circle. Begin lower -down and tie them again, and continue in this manner until -the net resembles Fig. 23. When it is seven or eight inches -deep begin to shape it in at the bottom by making the -meshes or openings smaller so that it will have a rounded -bottom. The ends of the string should be tied together or -over a small galvanized-iron sail-ring. All the strings should -be tied in square knots so that they will not become undone -after the net has been used for a while.</p> - -<h4 id='section_ix_10' class='c014'>A Hoop Drop-net</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A hoop drop-net such as shown at Fig. 24 may easily be -made from three galvanized-wire rings and a mesh of tied -string as described for the scap-net. The hoops should be -eighteen inches in diameter and separated ten inches, thus -making a net twenty inches deep. A mesh is to be formed -across the bottom, and at the top six small ropes are tied and -the ends brought together fifteen or twenty inches above -the top ring.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Place some crushed crab or any good bait in the bottom -of the net and slowly lower it until the rings rest on the -bottom of the bay or pond, but keep the small ropes clear -from the net. Watch through the water for visitors, and -when the right subject is at the bait and within the rings -give a quick jerk and pull the net rapidly to the surface. -If fish are to be caught in this manner the hoops should be -larger and one more added to the net, making it thirty inches -deep. Fish are cunning and swift, and will often dart up -and over the top hoop faster than you can haul it up.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span> -<h3 id='chapter_x' class='c016'>Chapter X<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>LAND-YACHTS AND PUSHMOBILES</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_x_1' class='c014'>A Land-yacht</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_5_0_8 c017'>A few years ago the only kind of yacht known to the -boys were those that sailed in the water, but in this -advanced time, when many unheard-of things have been -made possible, the land-yacht has made its welcome appearance. -Down on the Southern coasts, particularly Florida -and California, where the sand packs fine and hard, the land-yacht -is an important feature both for pleasure and business, -and if properly handled in a good breeze it will run from ten -to twenty miles an hour. No end of fun can be had with a -properly constructed boat, and the ingenious boy may employ -old baby-carriage or bicycle wheels for the running-gear.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A yacht of medium size can be made on the lines of Fig. 1 -at a comparatively small cost for the timbers and sail-cloth, -spars and hardware. The leg-of-mutton sail is used in -preference to the square sail, as it has the greatest area close -to the ground and is less liable to upset and much easier to -handle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To begin with, obtain some spruce joist clear-grained and -free from knots. They should be two-by-four inches and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>twelve feet long. Cut one of them eight feet long and use -it for the main cross-piece to which the front wheels are -attached. Form a V of two twelve-foot joist, and fasten -them to the cross-piece as shown in Fig. 2. About ten -inches of each piece should project beyond the cross-piece. -The timbers are bolted fast and at the rear end they are -bevelled and brought together, then bolted through from -side to side as shown in the plan (Fig. 2). Three feet back of -the long cross-piece a shorter timber is set in between the -V-shaped frame as shown at A. At the middle of this timber -a hole one inch and a half square is cut and into it a tenon -on the butt-end of the bowsprit fits as shown in Fig. 3.</p> - -<div id='i_190' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_190.jpg' alt='Fig. 1' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span>The bowsprit is seven feet long and is bolted fast to the -long cross-piece. Where the end fits into the timber A two -angle-blocks are nailed fast. Seat-planking is cut and -screwed or nailed fast to the V-shaped frame as shown in -both Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. The boards should be ten inches wide -and cut to overhang the timbers an inch or two at both ends.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If the wheels from an old baby-carriage are to be used -the axle should be cut in half with a hack-saw and each part -clamped under an end of the cross-timber with U-shaped -clamps having the ends threaded and provided with nuts -and washers as shown at Fig. 4. The rear or steering wheel -is set in a fork that a blacksmith will make from strap-iron, -and a round piece of the same metal, having a square-headed -upper end, will do for the rudder-post as shown at Fig. 5. -A short axle threaded at both ends and provided with nuts -will hold the wheel in place, and when the post is passed up -through a hole made in the timbers a tiller can be slipped -over the square shoulder and bolted fast so that it will stay -in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The tiller is of hard-wood two inches broad at the rear -end, one inch in thickness, and tapered so that it will be -about an inch square with the corners rounded where it is -grasped by the hand. The handle part of it should be -bound with linen cord to improve the grip. Give the deck -wood-work and timbering a few coats of red, buff, or light-green -paint.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The mast-step is rigged over the forward cross-timber. -Two upright pieces of board twenty inches long and eight -inches wide are attached to the outside edges of the frame-joist -with screws. On top of these a cross-piece is made -<span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span>fast so that the step presents the appearance of a bench. -Two pieces of board six inches wide are fastened from the -corners down to the bowsprit and cross-timber to brace the -step as shown at Fig. 6. An iron brace is made fast to the -top of the step, behind the mast, and to the bowsprit, as may -be seen in the illustration.</p> - -<div id='i_192' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_192.jpg' alt='Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>A hole three inches in diameter is cut at the middle of the -step-board, and through this the mast is slipped. A half-inch -round iron is driven into the bottom of the mast after a -hole has been bored with a bit. It should be long enough -<span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>to project out about two inches. This steps into a hole -bored in the top of the bowsprit, and with the three wire -stays that are caught at the top of the mast and into the -eye-bolts, shown by the arrow-heads in Fig. 2, the mast is -held securely in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A round pole fourteen feet long may be used for the mast, -but if it is impossible to find one a very good mast can be -dressed from a three-inch-square spruce stick that is free -from large knots or cracks. The dressing may be done -with a draw-knife and plane, and near the upper end it -should be tapered.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The boom is sixteen feet long and two inches in diameter, -and if it is possible to get a long curtain-pole it will answer -very well; otherwise it will be necessary to cut it from a -two-inch-square spruce stick.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The mast end of the boom is provided with a crotch made -with two jaws as shown at Fig 7. They are cut from hard-wood -with a draw-knife and compass-saw, and held to the -boom with carriage bolts or screws and string bound round -the three parts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The sail is made of heavy, unbleached muslin that can -be had at a dry-goods store for ten cents a yard. It may -be sewed by hand or on a machine, and through the middle -it would be well to take a lop so as to make a strengthening -rib. The sail measures ten feet on the mast, fifteen feet on -the boom, and eighteen feet on the leach. It is caught to -the boom with stout cord and to the mast with wood or -iron rings, and with a halyard and pulley at mast-head the -sail may be raised and lowered at will.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In localities where there are hard roads and where the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>wind has a good sweep these land-yachts have become very -popular. Of course they are much safer than water-boats -for there is no danger of drowning, and it is quite impossible -to capsize a land-yacht if the cross-timber is long enough to -give the wheels a good spread.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Wheels with rubber tires will make the running motion -easier and so add to the owner’s comfort.</p> - -<h4 id='section_x_2' class='c014'>A Sail-wagon</h4> - -<p class='c015'>For level streets or sidewalks where trees do not interfere -and where the walks are wide, a sail-wagon will afford much -amusement.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the drawing (Fig. 8) a sail-wagon of medium size and -simple construction is shown. Obtain a pine, white-wood, -or spruce plank fifteen inches wide and about one inch thick. -It should be planed on one or both sides and measure eight -feet long. Round the ends with a compass-saw and build -a bridge for the mast, as shown in the drawing. This -bridge should be twelve inches high, eighteen inches long, -and eight inches wide, and should be braced underneath with -angle-brackets. In the middle of the top board cut a hole -three inches in diameter, and directly under it, in the plank, -bore a half-inch hole for the mast-pin to step into.</p> - -<div id='i_195' class='figcenter id029'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span> -<img src='images/i_195.jpg' alt='Fig. 8, Fig. 9' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A SAIL-WAGON</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>One foot back from the front end arrange an axle-bar -three feet long and two by three inches thick. Make another -bar the same size for the rear axle but do not bolt it -fast. This must be arranged on a king-bolt so that it can -be turned by a post and tiller. The king-bolt and post -should be in one piece, and this will have to be made by a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span>blacksmith. Two round iron plates of metal one-eighth of -an inch thick and five inches in diameter are provided with -screw-holes at the outer edge and with round holes at the -middle. One of these plates is to be attached to the middle -of the axle, as shown at Fig. 9 A, and the other to the under -side of the plank in the middle and about ten inches in from -the end. A hole is to be bored and cut three-quarters of -an inch square in the axle-tree, and the holes in both iron -plates are also three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Have -a blacksmith make an iron post eight inches long and three-quarters -of an inch in diameter. A piece of iron should be -welded at the lower end so as to make it three-quarters of -an inch square for a distance of three inches. At the top -form a square shoulder an inch long, and above it have a -short round shank threaded to take a nut as shown in Fig. -9 B. Drive this shaft up through the square hole in the -axle-tree, and to prevent it from dropping nail a piece of -wood or tin over the end of it and to the under side of the -tree. Slip the round post up through the plate and board -so that it extends several inches above the top of the board. -Make a tiller of hard-wood fifteen inches long and three -inches wide at the post-end and taper it to the handle. -Cut a square hole in the broad end to fit over the square -shoulder on the iron post, then screw the nut on over a -washer to hold the tiller in place. To prevent the tiller -from splitting near the hole it would be best to bind the -wood at both ends of the hole with copper wire as shown in -Fig. 9 C. When the wagon is in motion a turn of the handle -will operate the axle and steer the moving vehicle easily.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The wheels should be all the same size, but if they cannot -<span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span>be had and only a pair of large and small ones are available -place the smaller ones at the rear. The axle need not run -the entire length of the axle-tree, but shorter pieces may be -bolted fast to the ends of the trees. Give the wagon two -or three coats of paint and it will then be ready for use.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From spruce or pine cut a mast five feet long and three -inches in diameter, using a draw-knife and plane to shape it. -Taper the stick at the top, place an iron band about the -bottom, and drive a half-inch iron pin into a hole bored in -the bottom so that two or three inches of it will project. -The foot of the mast is to be slipped through the hole in the -bridge and the pin stepped into the hole made in the long -board directly under it. From two-inch spruce cut a sprit -seven feet long and a boom seven feet long with a crotch -formed at one end, as described in the boat chapter. The -sprit acts as a gaff, and at the same time it does away with -halyards and makes it possible to use a shorter and stouter -stick for the mast.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From unbleached muslin make a sail three feet and six -inches on the mast, six feet on the boom, three feet at the -head, and seven feet on the leach. A sail of this proportion -will set properly, and when the peak is jacked up with the -sprit the boom will clear the boy on the deck when it swings -over. To stiffen the sail bind the outer edge with thin rope -or cotton line a trifle smaller than clothes-line.</p> - -<h4 id='section_x_3' class='c014'>A Pushmobile</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The pushmobile (Fig. 10) is another interesting road or -sidewalk car and one with which two boys can share considerable -<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>fun. In general appearance the pushmobile resembles -something between an automobile and a buck-board, -as there is a long reach between the fore and aft wheels. The -body consists of a long board one inch and a quarter in thickness, -eighteen or twenty inches wide, and seven feet long. -Or two nine-inch planks may be fixed together with the battens -that hold the axles and a shorter one under the seat. -At the front of the body a keg is mounted and held fast with -iron straps which go over the top of the keg and are fastened -to the sides of the large board as may be seen in Fig. 10. -This keg will represent the engine cover, and at either side of -it and mounted on the board two tin cans arranged with -glass at the front will serve as lamps. By perforating the -tops and sides of these cans a candle may be used or bicycle -lamps may be substituted for them. The glass is fitted to -the cans by bending a piece of spring-wire in a circle and -placing it within the can. Against this wire a circular piece -of glass will rest, and to hold it in place another wire may be -slipped within the can. If large baking-powder or coffee -cans are used the greater portion of the cap may be cut away -with a tin-shears, leaving a rim and flange just wide enough -to hold the glass in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The seat is made from a box eighteen inches wide and -high and arranged with back and sides which can be built -up six inches above the seat as shown in Fig. 10. This seat -is to be securely attached to the board with long screws -driven up through the under side of the board and into the -lower part of the box. The steering-shaft and wheel are -arranged about one foot in front of the seat. This is a shaft -of hard-wood (such as a curtain-pole or any good tough -<span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>stick) about one inch and a half square or in diameter. It -mounts on a block of wood which is screwed fast to the large -board and provided with a hole through which the shaft -will pass so that it will extend down through the large board. -A collar of wood or iron is slipped down over the shaft and -screwed fast to it so as to prevent it from slipping down too -far. Another collar is provided and made fast at the bottom -to prevent the steering-cable from slipping off. The arrangement -of the collars and wire is shown at Fig. 11 A. At -the top of the shaft a small wooden wheel should be slipped -on over a shank that may be cut down in size to fit the opening -in the wheel; and with a screw the wheel is to be made -fast to the shaft so that it is held securely in place.</p> - -<div id='i_199' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_199.jpg' alt='Fig. 10, Fig. 11, Fig. 12' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>The rear wheels are attached to an axle that in turn is -bolted fast to a bar of wood eighteen inches long and two -by three inches in thickness. These wheels are held in a -fixed position, and the bar to which they are attached is -located about a foot in from the end of the long board. The -front axle is bolted to a movable bar which is held to another -bar by a king-bolt, so that the lower axle-bar can turn in the -same way as on a wagon. The bar to which the axle and -movable bar are attached is located about one foot from the -front of the long board. This arrangement can be seen at -Fig. 12, which is a front view showing axle and fifth wheel, -as the turn-plate between the axle-tree and the body of the -wagon is called. The fifth wheel is made of two pieces of -tire-iron, one fastened to the under side of the fixed bar, the -other to the top of the axle-tree, so that when greased the -lower part will turn easily.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Flexible wire-cable or very strong twine should be used -for the steering-gear. The ends are made fast to the axle-tree -as shown at A in Fig. 12. Several wraps of the wire or -twine are taken about the lower end of the shaft, and the -wire passes through a hole to prevent it from slipping. -The wire should be attached first at one end of the tree, -carried to the shaft, and given several turns, then passed -through the hole. Several more turns are to be made above -the hole, then the loose end should be attached to the other -end of the axle-tree. If a small turn-buckle can be had, -make it fast to the wire and axle at one end so as to -draw the wire taut and hold it in place, for the tighter -the wire the better the shaft will act when turned by the -wheel.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>A brake is to be made fast at one side of the car as shown -in Fig. 10. Have a blacksmith turn a piece of one-inch thin -tire-iron for you as shown at Fig. 11 B, and bore two holes -at the short end and two larger ones farther up as indicated -in the drawing. With screws attach a brake-block to the -short end, and with a square-headed lag-screw make this -brake-bar fast to a block fastened at the under side of the -long board so that the lever and brake-block will act on -the tire of the wheel. The hand-bar is of iron twenty-four -inches long and provided with a hole at the lower end -and another one six inches above it. The upper end of the -bar is drawn out on the anvil so that a wooden handle -can be slipped on it, then it is bolted to a block attached -to the lower front side of the seat as shown in the illustration. -A stout wire connects the lower end of the hand-bar -with the top of the brake-bar, so that when the -handle is pulled back the wire and top end of the brake-bar -is drawn forward and the block pressed against the -wheel.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Several coats of paint will give this pushmobile a good -appearance and it will then be ready for use.</p> - -<p class='c011'>One boy on the seat steers the machine, while another -grasps the overhanging edges of the long board and pushes -as he runs behind. On level sidewalks or streets a good run -and push will send the car along at a good speed and the -pusher can then jump on behind. When going downhill -both boys can ride, and if the driver has his hands full with -the wheel and shaft the boy behind can reach forward and -operate the brake.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If coasting is done on very steep hills or roads it would be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>well to have a brake to operate on both rear wheels, for the -momentum of a rapidly moving car will often drag a “dead” -wheel if the other three are running easily; whereas if both -back wheels are “dead” the car can be brought to a quick -stop.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xi' class='c016'>Chapter XI<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>FIRE-ENGINES AND TRUCKS</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_xi_1' class='c014'>The Engine</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>Every</span> boy is interested in fire-engines and fires, and -in the absence of the real thing there is a great deal of -fun to be had in playing fire. The regular steam apparatus -is rather beyond a boy’s constructive ability, but the engine -shown in the illustration (Fig. 1) can easily be made from an -oil or pork barrel, a keg, a pump, and a set of old wagon -wheels. A box may be used for the seat and a small force-pump -may be had at a hardware store for a nominal sum. -The pump should be fitted with a hose-coupling at both inlet -and outlet, so that a piece of garden hose can be used for the -suction and force.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The construction of the body part of the engine is shown -in Fig. 2. Two rails six inches wide, seven-eighths of an -inch thick, and six feet long are set wide enough apart for -the barrel (representing the boiler) to fit between. These -pieces are securely attached with stout screws to the barrel -so that a foot of each rail will extend beyond the rear of the -barrel. At both ends a rail corresponding in width and -thickness is cut and fitted between the ends of the rails as -shown at A A. These are to be held in position with long, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>steel-wire nails or with screws, which always make the best -and most secure joints.</p> - -<div id='i_204' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_204.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>To prevent the side-rails from spreading, a cross-rib should -be made fast to the under side of the side-rails about at the -middle as shown at B B. This is a precaution taken to -prevent the rails spreading and letting the heavy barrel full -of water drop. In addition to the screws that are driven -<span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span>through the side-rails and into the barrel, it would be well to -screw a batten fast at each side over the rail as shown at C. -This lug will help the bearing and take the strain from the -screws in the rails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The truss which holds the keg, or imitation dry-steam -chest, is made of strips four inches wide, seven-eighths of -an inch thick, and built up so that the angle stands fifteen -inches above the top of the side-rails as shown at D. These -trusses are securely bound at the angle with screws or clinch-nails, -then screwed fast to the inside of the rails as shown at -E E. Cut a short piece of board and nail it fast between -these truss-knees to act as a platform on which to stand the -keg. Another small platform can be made between the -truss and barrel on one or both sides of the apparatus to -accommodate one or two pumps. The smoke-pipe at the -top of the barrel is cut from an old stove-pipe and is shaped -as shown in Fig. 1. With a tin-shears or snips the ears are -cut at top and bottom. Those at the top are pointed and -give a crown effect, but if the plain-rim top is preferred do -not cut the pipe. At the bottom, slits are cut in the pipe -two inches in from the edge, about three-quarters of an inch -apart, and with a flat-nosed pliers the ears are bent out so -that they will lie flat on the barrel-top when the smoke-pipe -is set in place. A piece of tin or zinc is placed on the barrel-head -under the smoke-pipe, and with large tacks the pipe is -then made fast.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When running to a fire some shavings, chips, or cotton -on which some paraffine has been melted is put in this -smoke-pipe and lit, and as the engine is drawn along the -sparks and smoke will shoot out from the top of the pipe in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>a very realistic manner. The seat is made of a box on top -of which a back and side-arms are arranged as shown in -Fig. 1, and when it is complete it is attached to the side-rails -and truss. The upper edges of the side-rails are decked -over in front of the box so as to make a platform, and at the -front end of the frame a dash-board is arranged and held in -position with battens.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A small, water-tight keg is fastened to the platform between -the knees of the truss by means of screws passed up -through the bottom of the platform and into the under side -of the keg. One or two openings are made in the keg and -a hose-coupling driven into them so that the long hose may -be attached when at a fire. Short lengths of hose and -couplings extend from the top of the pumps to the keg, so -that when the pumps are in action the water is forced into -the keg and out through the openings. There will always -be a cushion of air above the water which is more or less -elastic, and when the water is forced in faster than it can -escape through the nozzles the air-cushion will take care of -the pressure automatically.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Small carriage wheels and axles support the frame, and at -the front a fifth wheel is arranged so that the front wheels -can be turned. Back of the barrel the frame is decked at -the under side so as to make a fuel-box where more smoke -and spark making materials can be stored. It would be -well to fasten a lid to this compartment so that sparks dropping -from the smoke-pipe will not fall on and ignite the contents. -If it is possible to obtain a force-pump it can be -mounted on one of the bases arranged at the side of the -barrel.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span>The suction-hose should come from the under side of the -barrel and be attached to the base of the pump. The coupling -to which the long hose is attached should be arranged -at the side of the keg or it can be screwed directly on the -outlet of the pump. A short length of the hose—a coupling -and nozzle—may be supported on hooks and a standing Y -as shown in Fig. 1. The hook on the barrel is made from -a piece of iron bent as shown at Fig. 3 A, with holes bored -to receive screws. If the iron is too hard to work a wooden -bracket can be made, as shown at B, and screwed fast to -the barrel.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The Y may be made from strap-iron and a stick, as shown -at C and D (Fig. 3), the iron being attached to the top of -the stick which in turn is screwed fast to the truss. A -pole is made fast to the forward running-gear to drag the -engine with, and if several boys are to be members of the -fire company a rope should be made fast to the axle at both -ends or to the body frame, and the boy nearest the engine -can steer it with the pole. All the wood-work should be -painted red and the metal parts with asphaltum varnish, -which will give them a good appearance, and as it is water-proof -it will prevent the metal parts from rusting.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Trip-gongs and signal-lamps should, of course, be provided, -for without these appurtenances the engine would be -a flat failure.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xi_2' class='c014'>The Hose-carriage</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A hose-carriage (Fig. 4) to accompany the engine is made -of wood and constructed on the same lines as the engine.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The frame is made of boards six inches wide, seven-eighths -<span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>of an inch thick, and is five feet long by two feet wide as -shown at Fig. 5. A dash-board is made and fastened to the -front of the frame, and between the dash-board and seat the -side-rails are decked over to make a platform. The remaining -part of the frame may be left open. Across the under -side of the frame fasten two cross-bars to which the axles are -to be made fast. Baby-carriage or small wagon wheels are -to be used for the hose-carriage, and if the axles should not -be long enough a blacksmith will weld in a piece at the -middle so as to make them the required length.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The reel is made from a round piece of wood and two -circular sides and arranged so as to revolve in a supporting -frame. One side of the frame is shown in Fig. 5. It is made -from wood three inches wide, seven-eighths of an inch thick, -and the pieces are securely attached at the inside of the side-rails -with screws and clinch-nails. The sides of the reel are -made from three pieces of matched boards and are twenty -inches in diameter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Drive three pieces of board together and lay them flat. -With a pin, a piece of string, and a pencil describe a circle -twenty inches in diameter using the centre of the middle -board as a place to drive the pin. After the circle is drawn, -separate the boards, and with a compass-saw cut the wood -on the lines. Then drive the boards together again and -band the outer edge with a piece of box strap-iron, driving -the nails in about two inches apart all around the edge.</p> - -<div id='i_209' class='figcenter id030'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span> -<img src='images/i_209.jpg' alt='Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>HOSE-CARRIAGE AND HOOK-AND-LADDER TRUCK</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Attach one end to the flat end of the hub. The other -piece should have a square hole cut in it so that it will fit -over the square shoulder cut on the other end of the axle -as shown at Fig. 6 A. Attach both ends to the axle with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span>long, steel-wire nails, then from a piece of hard-wood cut a -crank and handle as shown at Fig. 6 B. The crank is ten -inches long and at both sides of the square hole the wood -should be bound with wire to prevent its splitting. At the -opposite end from the crank an iron pin half an inch in -diameter is to be driven through the side and into the end -of the hub through a half-inch hole bored with auger or bit -and brace. This is shown in the drawing of the complete -reel. Fig. 6 C.</p> - -<p class='c011'>On the end of the hub and close to the square crank-shaft -the hub is turned round for a distance of two inches. This -is the part that will fit in the bearing cut in the supporting -frame. To hold the reel in position at the top of the truss, -straps of iron, as shown at Fig. 6 D, are screwed fast over the -angle when the reel is in place. With a coat or two of paint -this hose-carriage will be ready for use.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xi_3' class='c014'>The Hook-and-Ladder Truck</h4> - -<p class='c015'>To complete the outfit a hook-and-ladder truck (Fig. 7) -will be necessary, on the racks of which four hooks, three -ladders, six buckets, and other paraphernalia can be accommodated.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The length of the truck will depend somewhat on the -strength of the wheels that can be had, also on the size of -the boys in the fire company; but for serviceable use for -both small and large boys a truck eight feet long will be a -very good size. The frame or body is made of boards six -inches wide, seven-eighths of an inch thick, and is eight -feet long by thirty inches wide. The frame should be braced -<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>across the bottom, at the middle, and near both ends to prevent -it from racking. Two cross-timbers for the axles are -made fast under the forward and rear ends, and to the forward -one the fifth-wheel bar is made fast so that the front -wheels can be turned.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The ladder-rack is constructed from pieces of curtain-pole -and side uprights, six inches wide at the bottom and tapered -to three inches at the top. The uprights are attached to the -inside of the body frame, and the bars on which the ladders -rest are let into holes in these uprights and keyed as shown -at Fig. 8 A. The end of the bar is cut across with a saw, and -when this is passed through a hole in the upright a wedge-shaped -key is driven in the cut to spread the end of the bar -and expand it so that it will hold. Some glue on the wedge -will cause it to stay in place after it has been driven in as far -as it will go.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The ladders are made of two spruce rails three inches wide -and one inch and a quarter thick. The rungs are let into -holes made in the middle of the rails and keyed fast with -wedges as just described for the ladder-rails. If a flat rung -is preferred the rails may be cut in as shown at B in Fig. 8, -and flat strips are to be laid in these laps and nailed or screwed -fast. The sharp corners may be planed off so as to make -the grip easier to the hands. The ladders may vary from -seven to twelve feet in length and from eighteen to twenty-four -inches wide, preferably the wider ones, as they are safer -and will not slide sidewise as a narrower ladder is apt to do.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The dash-board and forward deck are supported on two -bracket-plates made fast to the forward part of the body -frame, and on the deck planking a box-seat with sides and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span>back is to be made fast. Stout iron hooks are driven in -along both sides of the body between forward and rear -wheels, and on them ordinary wooden pails or buckets may -be hung. Two sets of hooks arranged at the outer side of -the ladder supports will hold the long handles of fire-hooks, -and a scaling-ladder can be hung under the truck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The goose-neck of a scaling-ladder should be made of -tempered iron by a blacksmith, and all the wood-work -should be of hickory. The plan for a scaling-ladder is -shown in Fig. 9. The stick is three by one and a half inches -and the rungs are three-quarters by two inches, driven -through mortises cut in the stick twelve inches apart and -held by a steel nail driven through the centre. The goose-neck -base is divided like the front-wheel fork of a bicycle -and with corresponding holes bored in each side. Bolts -should be passed through them and the head of the stick -so as to hold the iron straps securely. Good, strong hickory -may be had from a wheelwright or wagon-builder, and care -should be taken to cut the mortises accurately so that the -parts will fit snugly together. Ladder-building is different -from ordinary carpentry, and pains should be taken to have -all the joints very tight so that they will not rack.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xii' class='c016'>Chapter XII<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>WATER-WHEELS</span></h3> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_5_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>All</span> boys like to play about the water, and dams and -water machinery afford an endless amount of amusement. -Moreover, the pastime has its useful side. Once you -get a wheel in operation with a shaft and pulley attached, it -is then a simple matter to harness your power and make it -do all sorts of things, such as sawing wood, churning milk, -operating a fan on hot days, and even turning a grindstone -or light wood-working machinery.</p> - -<p class='c011'>There are three kinds of wheels, the overshot, breast, and -undershot. The overshot is the most powerful, for it is not -only moved by the weight of water that it holds but also by -the force of the onrushing water from the sluice arranged -to feed it. The breast-wheel is the next in power and is -used where the fall of water is not so great. The undershot -wheel is employed in a rapidly running brook or stream -where there is no dam or body of headwater. This form of -wheel is the least powerful and the most unreliable, for the -height of the watercourse is liable to change according to -seasons and storms. While at one time it may be flushed -up to the hub, at another the water may hardly touch the -blades of the wheel.</p> - -<p class='c011'>These forms of old-style wheels have become almost obsolete -<span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>now as the modern turbine has superseded it as a -means of employing water as a motive power. Less than -one-quarter of the surface of the old-time wheels would be -actively engaged at any one time, and the waste of power -was appalling as compared with the sluice-box and pen-stock -of the modern turbine where every drop of water is lending -its influence to the blades. A turbine, however, is rather -beyond the ability of the average boy to properly construct, -and so we do the best we can with the old-style -wheels. For a boy’s purpose they will answer quite well -enough.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the accompanying drawings several ideas for water-wheels -are shown, and among them a boy should be able to -find one that he can make from boards and sticks, at a slight -cost, and which if properly rigged and adjusted will develop -a considerable amount of power.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xii_1' class='c014'>A Simple Paddle-wheel</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The simple paddle-wheel, as shown at Fig. 1, is made -from an axle three inches square, four spokes, and four -boards. For a wheel of medium size that will develop about -one-eighth of a horse-power the axle should be four feet long. -One end is rounded for a distance of four inches as shown at -A, and with bit and chisel two mortises are cut in opposite -directions as shown at A. These holes are one inch and a -quarter wide and three inches long. Into them the spokes -are driven and held with screws or iron pins. Another pair -of holes are cut thirty inches from the first and two more -spokes driven in them. The spokes are thirty inches long, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span>thus leaving thirteen and a half inches of each one projecting -beyond the axle or hub.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The paddle blades are boards thirty inches long, ten -inches wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick. They are -attached to the spokes with carriage-bolts and washers.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A rounded bearing two inches wide is cut in the axle -beyond the spokes so as to correspond with the other end, -and beyond this the axle is left square. Bearings for this -wheel are made in the edge of a stout plank notched as -shown at B, and held in place by iron straps as also depicted -at B. Long screws or screw-bolts, commonly known as lag-screws, -will hold the strap in place, and from the square end -of the shaft the connection is made for power. In place of -the iron strap another piece of wood may be cut and clamped -down over the axle end as shown at C.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xii_2' class='c014'>A Wagon Wheel</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Another variety of water-wheel may be made from the -hubs and spokes of two old wheels, preferably those from a -buggy or light wagon. Fig. 2.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Remove the iron boxes from the hubs by driving them -out, then cut a hole in each hub with a chisel and mallet, as -shown at A, so they will be at least an inch and a half square. -From hickory or other hard-wood make an axle the size of -the holes and arrange the hubs on it so they will be thirty -inches apart. One side of each spoke should be cut as shown -at B in order that the blades may rest against a flat place -instead of a rounded surface. The blades should be from -thirty to thirty-six inches long and ten or twelve inches wide, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>and held to the spokes with carriage or tire bolts. This wheel -may be swung in bearings as described in Fig. 1, and from -the square end of the axle the power can be taken.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Both of these wheels may be used as over or undershot -but not as breast-wheels, for a breast-wheel must have -pockets to hold the water, and the overshot-wheel should -have them too if all the available force and weight of water -is to be employed.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xii_3' class='c014'>A Barrel-wheel</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A very simple and efficient device is shown in the drawing -of a barrel-wheel (Fig. 3). This consists of an oil or pork -barrel having tight ends and staves, a number of blades, and -some siding-boards.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The blades are of hard-wood ten inches wide and the -length of the barrel. One edge of each blade is cut to conform -with the bilge of the barrel as shown at A, and with -three or four long screws each blade is made fast to the -barrel at the middle. The ends of the barrel are replanked -so as to build their surface even with the projecting edges -of the staves, then some matched boards are nailed or -screwed to the heads to bind together the ends of the blades. -Screws are passed through the boards and into the ends of -the blades to make them secure, and in this manner a hollow -wheel is made with pockets around the outside.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A square hole should be cut in each end of the barrel and -into them an axle is driven. It is provided with rounded -bearings and square end. When swung in a carriage and -connected a powerful wheel will be the result if the force of -water is sufficient to drive it.</p> - -<div id='i_217' class='figcenter id031'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span> -<img src='images/i_217.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>WATER-WHEELS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_xii_4' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span>An Undershot-wheel</h4> - -<p class='c015'>For a brook an undershot-wheel can be made with two -round ends and ten or twelve blades according to the size of -the wheel. For an efficient one the wheel should be thirty-six -or forty-eight inches in diameter and thirty inches wide. -Two ends are made from matched boards held together with -battens as shown in Fig. 4 A. These are arranged on a -square axle and the blades are made fast between them with -long screws or steel nails. Fig. 4 B.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xii_5' class='c014'>A Power-wheel</h4> - -<p class='c015'>To utilize the power from a rapidly running brook place -two tree-trunks across the brook about six feet apart as -shown in Fig. 5. On top of these timbers attach two spruce -beams eight or ten inches wide and two inches thick, and -anchor them well with spikes and check-blocks. At the -middle and on top of both timbers cut notches for the axle -to fit in and provide them with metal straps to hold the -axle in place. A long axle leading to the land can be -supported on a short timber attached to stout stakes -driven in the ground, and another bearing and strap will -hold this from jumping with the rapid revolutions of the -wheel. A wooden pulley may be arranged at the end of -this axle, and from it the power can be taken off by means -of belting or rope.</p> - -<div id='i_219' class='figcenter id032'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span> -<img src='images/i_219.jpg' alt='Fig. 5, Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>POWER-WHEEL AND WHEEL-RACE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Another arrangement for this wheel will be to swing it in -a cradle or frame so that one end of it may be lifted to reduce -<span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span>the speed or power of the wheel, the other end being -securely attached to a tree-trunk with hinges.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xii_6' class='c014'>A Wheel-race</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The water from a wide, shallow brook may be directed so -as to throw its full force against the blades of a wheel by -digging it out at the middle and damming it at the sides as -shown by the diagram of a modified brook (Fig. 6). The -dams should be solidly built and if possible cribbed to prevent -their washing away.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span> - <h2 id='part_iii' class='c005'>Part III<br /> <br /><span class='xlarge'>AFLOAT</span></h2> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xiii' class='c013'>Chapter XIII<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>BOATS</span></h3> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>Of</span> all the things that a boy is interested in there is -nothing more fascinating than boats, whether they are -to row, paddle, or sail in, and, as many of the simple kinds -are quite within the ability of a boy to make, he can take -a great deal of pleasure in their construction.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For the sea-shore and salt waterways the boats should -be heavily constructed, and as this is usually beyond the -average boy’s ability, the sea-going dorys, surf-boats, and -heavy sail-boats will be omitted, and those described and -illustrated will be for use in fresh water, or on small enclosed -salt waterways where the wind and tide are moderate.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In making a boat it is not only necessary to have it float, -but to construct it in such a manner that the joints will -keep closed and the boards will not rip off if run on a snag -or against a rocky shore.</p> - -<p class='c011'>These are essential points in the proper construction of -boats, and they might as well be learned by the amateur -boat-builder when he is young, instead of constructing -something for fun and having to learn the right way all -over again when he is older and more serious work begins.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In this chapter a few of the simpler forms of boats are -shown, and the warning must be given at the start that the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>young shipwright should use the greatest care in constructing -a boat, not only for the natural pride they will take -in making a good one, but for the still more important -reason that the safety of all on board is dependent upon his -skill and conscientious work.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiii_1' class='c014'>Punt and Scow</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A punt with a flat bottom is about the easiest and -safest boat for a boy to make and own, for it is straight in -construction and difficult to upset if not overloaded. As -both ends are the same it can be rowed or poled forward or -backward, and the overhanging ends allow plenty of seating -room.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The punt shown in Fig. 4 is fifteen feet long, nineteen -inches deep, and four feet wide. The ends cut under -twenty inches, and at one end a skag and rudder can be -arranged as shown in Fig. 2.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The sides are made of two boards, one of six and the -other of a twelve-inch width, and the added thickness of -the bottom boards make the total depth of the sides nineteen -inches. The wider boards are the lower ones, and they -are fastened together near both ends and at the middle -with battens as shown in Fig. 4. The middle battens are -six inches wide, and into the upper ends of them the row-lock -pins are driven. The bottom planking should not be -more than four or five inches wide, and it is securely -nailed to the edges of the sides and to an inner keel-strip -running the entire length of the bottom as shown in Fig. 3.</p> - -<div id='i_225' class='figcenter id033'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span> -<img src='images/i_225.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>PUNT AND SCOW</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The wood should be very dry so that it will not shrink -<span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>afterwards and open the seams. Along the edges, and -before the planking is laid or nailed on, smear white-lead, -and lay one or two thicknesses of lamp-wicking on the lead, -so that when the ends of the planking are driven down -it makes a water-tight joint. Where the planks butt up -against the other planking, the joints are to be generously -smeared with white-lead and laid with a string of the lamp-wicking. -Begin at one end and work towards the other, -having first attached the end planks. Fig. 3 A.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The method of attaching the skag is also shown in Fig. -3, and if the punt shows a tendency to swing around in the -water and not mind the oars or rudder, a keel three inches -wide may be attached on the bottom of the punt to run from -the forward end of the straight bottom back to the end of -the skag.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bottom planking is to be attached at both sides and -to the inner keel-strip with galvanized nails. Do not use -ordinary nails as they will rust in a short time, and the -only ones that are of use are the regular galvanized boat -nails that can be had at most hardware stores, and always -at a ship-chandler’s or from a boat-builder.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A rudder can be made and hung at one end of the boat -as shown in Fig. 2.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A scow (Fig. 1) will be found the easiest of all boats to construct, -but at the same time the hardest to row, since both -the ends are blunt and vertical. A scow is for use in -shallow water and is poled generally instead of being rowed. -It is built in a similar manner to the punt, but the ends are -not cut under. A good size to make the scow for general -use will be fourteen feet long, eighteen inches deep, and four -<span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span>feet wide. It may be provided with two or three seats, and -when complete both the punt and scow should receive two -or three good coats of paint.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiii_2' class='c014'>A Sharpy</h4> - -<p class='c015'>It is not a difficult matter to make a sharpy like the one -shown in Fig. 5, but care must be taken in its construction -to insure good unions and tight joints.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Cedar, white-wood, pine, or cypress are the best woods of -which to build small boats, and wide boards can be had at -almost any lumber-yard. White cedar is somewhat more -difficult to get than the other woods, but if possible it should -be used.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To make this sharpy the proper size for a boy’s use, obtain -two boards fifteen or sixteen inches wide, fourteen feet -long, and seven-eighths of an inch thick, planed on both -sides and as free from knots as possible. If the boards cannot -be had fifteen inches wide, then batten two boards -together with strips just as plain board doors are made. -Before they are fastened, however, smear the joint edges -with white-lead and embed a string of lamp-wicking through -the middle. Use plenty of white-lead, and after the boards -are pressed together and fastened the surplus lead can -be scraped from both sides of the joint and saved for other -joints.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From a piece of hard-wood cut a stem eighteen inches -long and four inches wide, with bevelled planes, as shown -in Fig. 6. A section or end view of this post will appear -like Fig. 6 A. Against the cut-in sides of this post the bow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>ends of the side boards are to be attached with screws or -galvanized boat nails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The long side boards are to be cut at bow and stern as -shown at Fig. 7 A and B. The bow recedes three inches -and the stern is cut under thirty-four inches. Attach the -bow ends of the boards to the stem-piece or post so that -the top of the sides will be seven-eighths of an inch below -the flat top of the post. If properly done you will then -have a V-shaped affair resembling a snow-plough, which -must be bent and formed in the shape of a boat.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From a board seven-eighths of an inch thick cut a -spreader ten inches wide, forty-eight inches long at one side, -and forty-two inches at the other, as shown in Fig. 8. Arrange -this between the boards about midway from bow to -stern, so that the bottom of the spreader is flush with the -bottom of the sides; then draw in the rear ends of the boards -and tie them temporarily with a piece of rope.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Drive a nail into the edge of each board near the end, to -prevent the rope slipping off, for if it should do so the -boards would fly apart and might break away from the -stem-piece.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In order to draw in the ends to the proper position, insert -a short stick between the ropes and twist it around -until the rope is wound up; then if the end is not in far -enough, slip another rope around the ends of the boards, -and after releasing the first rope insert the stick and continue -the twisting until the ends of the side boards are -twenty-one inches apart. Before this bending process is -begun, it would be well to pour a kettleful of boiling water -over each side board to limber them, for dry boards are -<span class='pageno' id='Page_217'>217</span>stiff and will not bend easily without checking or cracking. -If it is possible to steam the boards they will yield still -better to the bending process.</p> - -<div id='i_229' class='figcenter id034'> -<img src='images/i_229.jpg' alt='Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A SHARPY</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_218'>218</span>The stern-plank is cut in the same shape as the spreader, -but it is curved or crowned at the top, where it is twenty-three -inches long, while at the bottom it measures twenty -inches. It is six inches wide at the ends and nine inches -at the middle, and is attached to the ends of the sides with -boat nails while the tension-rope is still in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>An inner keel is then cut six inches wide and pointed at the -bow end, where it is attached to the lower edges of the sides -at the bow and flush with them. The planking or bottom -boards should fit snugly to it and to the edges of the sides.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A lap six inches long and seven-eighths of an inch deep -is cut in the bottom of the spreader at the middle. In this -the inner keel will fit, and after the first two or three bottom -boards are nailed on at the bow end the frame of the sharpy -will appear as shown in Fig. 9. The spreader and stern-plank -will give the sides a flare which will have a tendency -also to curve the bottom of the boat slightly from bow to -stern. The bottom planks are four inches wide, of clear -wood, and must not have tongue and grooved edges, but -should be plain so that the white-lead and lamp-wicking -will make a tight joint when the planks are driven up snug -to each other.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Drive all nails carefully so as not to split the planking or -sides, and as a precaution a small bit or gimlet should be -used to make the start for the nail-hole.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A seat ten inches wide is fastened at the middle of the -boat, over the spreader, and seats may also be arranged -<span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span>at the bow and stern, where they rest on cleats that are -screwed fast to the sides.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A short keel or skag is fastened to the under side of the -sharpy and extends from about under the middle seat aft -to the stern-post. A V-shaped piece is let in where the -stern is cut under as shown in Fig. 10. This keel prevents -the sharpy from turning about quickly and serves to steady -her when rowing, as well as making a deeper stern-post -to which a rudder may be hung as shown in Fig. 2. Six -inches to the rear of the middle seat plates of wood six -inches wide are attached to the sides of the sharpy, as shown -in the illustration (Fig. 5), and on the tops of these oar-locks -or pins are inserted after the usual fashion.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the outside of the sides and an inch below the top edge -a gunwale-strip is made fast, and with a ring in the bow -for a painter and a pair of oars the sharpy is ready for use.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Of course it should be thoroughly painted. Three or -four successive coats of paint should be applied to a boat -the first time it is painted, and before using, it should be -launched, half filled with water, and allowed to stand for a -few days so that the joints will swell and close properly. -A mast six or eight feet high and a leg-of-mutton sail will -enable a boy to sail before the wind in a quiet breeze, but -rough-weather sailing should not be attempted in this -style of open boat.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiii_3' class='c014'>A Dory</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A dory (Fig. 11), is somewhat similar to a sharpy but -has higher sides and a narrower bottom, therefore it draws -more water than a wide, flat-bottomed sharpy.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span>A boy can make a dory from twelve to sixteen feet long, -but a fourteen-foot dory will be quite large enough to hold -from four to six boys comfortably and safely. The sides -should be twenty-four inches high and the bottom twenty-four -inches across amidships.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bottom is made from four six-inch planks battened -across as shown in Fig. 12. The joints are leaded before -the boards are brought together, and the fastenings are of -galvanized nails clinched at the inside. The battens, of -course, are on the inside, but the nail-heads are on the outside -or bottom of the boat.</p> - -<div id='i_232' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_232.jpg' alt='Fig. 11, Fig. 12, Fig. 13, Fig. 14' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>A stem and stern-piece (Fig. 13 A and B) are cut from -<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span>hard-wood, and to these the wooden sides are made fast -at both ends. The bow and stern of a dory have more of -a rake than those of a sharpy as may be seen in Fig. 11. -The top of the bow extends out beyond the bottom at least -from fifteen to twenty inches, while the stern overhangs the -keel about twelve inches. The sides flare out nine inches at -both sides amidships, so that the total width of beam is -forty-two inches for a dory fourteen feet long.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Planks sixteen feet long are necessary with which to -make this dory, for when they are sprung out at the sides -they take up on the length. They can be six inches wide, -and are made fast to ribs along the inside of the boat and -attached with galvanized boat nails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 14 an amidships section of the dory is shown and -the position of the seat is located. Along the top of the -sides, to cap them and the upper ends of the ribs, rails two -inches wide and three-quarters of an inch thick are made -fast with boat nails. These rails should be of hard-wood, -and they should be sprung into place and securely fastened.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A dory of this description makes an ideal fishing-boat -where the water is rough, since it can be rowed either forward -or backward.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiii_4' class='c014'>A Sailing Sharpy</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A rowing sharpy can be converted into a sail-boat by -partially decking it over, making a mast-step, and providing -it with a lee-board if a centre-board cannot be arranged -in the middle of the hull. Fig. 18.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The half-deck will keep out the water that might splash -over the sides or come over the bow and stern, and the row-boat -features need not be altered nor the seats removed, -as the rib and brace work for the deck can easily be fitted -and fastened over the seats, and so give additional strength -to the deck.</p> - -<div id='i_234' class='figcenter id035'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span> -<img src='images/i_234.jpg' alt='Fig. 15, Fig. 18' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A SAILING SHARPY</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span>Just behind the front seat and at the forward edge of the -back seat cross-ribs are made fast to the sides of the sharpy. -Between these, and eight inches from the sides of the boat, -additional braces are sprung into place and securely attached -at the ends, and provided with short cross-braces -as shown in Fig. 15. The deck planking is nailed to these -ribs and the seats under them give a substantial support -to both the ribs and deck. The opening or cockpit will be -six feet long and varying in width, as the side decks are -eight inches wide and follow the line of the boat’s sides. -Amidships it should measure about twenty-eight inches.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The braces and ribs are made of three-quarter-inch spruce -boards five or six inches wide, and to bend them in the segment -of a circle (as they will have to be for the side-ribs) -pour hot water over two of them and place the ends on boxes -with heavy stones at the middle to bend them down to the -required curve. Allow them to remain in this position for -several hours to dry in the sun; they may then be cut and -fitted to the boat. The decking is done with narrow strips -of pine, cypress, or cedar one inch and a half wide and three-quarters -of an inch in thickness. They are bent to conform -to the side lines of the boat, and if they are fitted nicely and -leaded the deck should be water-tight after it receives varnish -or paint.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If straight boards are employed in place of the narrow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>planking the deck can be covered with canvas and first given -a coat of oil, then several successive thin coats of paint. The -canvas should be tacked down over the outer edge of the -boat and to the inner edge of the cockpit. A gunwale-strip -an inch square is to be nailed along the top edge on both -sides of the boat, and one inch below the top of the deck nail -a guard rail along each side.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To finish the cockpit arrange a combing in place to project -four inches above the deck, and make the boards fast to -the inner side of the ribs with screws as shown in the illustration -of the hull of sailing sharpy. Fig. 15.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Ten inches back from the bow-post bore a hole two inches -and a half in diameter so that a mast will fit securely in place. -The hole should extend through the deck and front seat, and -a step-block with a hole in it to receive the foot of the mast -must be nailed fast to the bottom of the boat. The hole in -this block is oblong, and the foot of the mast should be cut -on two sides so as to fit in the block as shown in Fig. 16.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Spruce or clear pine sticks are to be dressed and planed -for the mast and boom, the mast measuring fourteen feet -high by two inches and a half at the base, and the boom -thirteen feet long by two inches in diameter, both tapering -near the end.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rudder is eighteen inches long, including the post, and -ten inches high. It is fastened to a post of hard-wood three -inches wide and seven-eighths of an inch thick. At the top -of this an iron strap is fastened to hold the tiller as shown in -Fig. 17 A. The rudder is hung to the stern of the boat with -pins and sockets, as shown in Fig. 17 B, so that if it becomes -necessary the rudder may be unshipped by lifting it out -<span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>of the sockets or eyes. The rudder is fastened to the post -with galvanized-iron pins ten inches long and three-eighths -of an inch in diameter driven through snug holes bored in -the wood as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 17 B.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is impossible to hold a boat on the wind without a -centre-board, but as this sharpy has none a lee-board will -be required to keep her from drifting leeward. Fig. 18.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This board can be made five feet long, thirty inches wide, -and hung over the lee side when running on the wind, where -ropes and cleats will hold it in place. The board may be -made of three planks banded together at the rear end with -a batten, and at the forward end it is strapped across with -bands of iron as shown in Fig. 18.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With a sail of twilled or heavy unbleached muslin this -boat may be driven through the water at five or six miles -an hour, and two boys can have a great deal of fun out of -her. Care should be exercised in handling the boat; and be -sure to reef the sail in case of a strong breeze.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiii_5' class='c014'>A Centre-board Sharpy</h4> - -<p class='c015'>When making a sharpy to sail in, a trunk and centre-board -should be built when the keel is laid so that the cumbersome -and unhandy lee-board may be done away with. The centre-board -is housed in the trunk, through which it can be -raised or lowered as occasion requires.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The arrangement of the trunk in the boat is shown in -Fig. 19, and it is located so that the front of the trunk is -three feet from the bow. For a centre-board one inch and -a quarter in thickness the trunk should be one inch and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span>three-quarters wide between sides, five feet long, and eighteen -inches high. It is made of tongue-and-grooved boards -one inch and one-eighth in thickness, and these are attached -by stout screws to posts one inch and three-quarters square -at bow and stern. The trunk is mounted on the keel, set in -white-lead, and securely fastened with screws. A slot is cut -in the keel the same size as the inside opening of the trunk—that -is, two inches wide and about five feet long. The bottom -planking is butted against the sides of the trunk at the -middle of the boat as shown in Fig. 20.</p> - -<p class='c011'>An inner keel is laid over the bottom planking through -the centre of the boat from stem to stern, and where it fits -around the trunk it is cut out. Both the inner and outer -keels are six inches wide and the exposed edges are bevelled -with a plane. A sectional or end view of the trunk and its -location in the keels is shown in Fig. 20, where the shading -and lettering will designate each part.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The centre-board is four feet and nine inches long, thirty -inches wide at the back, and twenty-four inches at the front. -It is attached to the trunk with a hard-wood pin located -near the forward lower end, and when it is drawn up it will -appear as shown in Fig. 21 A, but when lowered it will look -like Fig. 21 B.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The centre-board is made of hard-wood, several boards of -which are pinned together with galvanized-iron rods three-eighths -of an inch in diameter and driven through from edge -to edge of the boards in snug holes made with a long bit or -auger. The rods are riveted at both ends over washers to -prevent the boards from working apart.</p> - -<div id='i_239' class='figcenter id036'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span> -<img src='images/i_239.jpg' alt='Fig. 16, Fig. 17, Fig. 19, Fig. 20, Fig. 21' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A CENTRE-BOARD SHARPY</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>It would be better to let a boat-builder or carpenter make -<span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>this board the proper size and shape to fit the trunk, for it is -the most difficult thing to construct about a boat and somewhat -beyond the ability of many boys. A large galvanized -eye and a rope made fast below the middle of the board at -the rear edge will provide the means for raising and lowering -the centre-board.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The deck ribs and the planking are put in the same as -described for the sailing sharpy.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiii_6' class='c014'>A Proa</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In the South Sea Islands the natives dig out the trunk of -a tree, rig a lateen sail on a single stick, and arrange a counter-balance -on the end of two poles in the form of a catamaran. -With this rude contrivance they can outsail anything -in the shape of a small boat such as our types of cat-boats -and sharpies.</p> - -<p class='c011'>These queer craft are called proas, and a modified -type that a boy can make is shown in the illustration -Fig. 22.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This is a perfectly safe boat, and as it lies close on the -water a great deal of fun can be had with one in comparatively -smooth waterways.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To make the hull get two ten-inch planks sixteen feet long -and spring them five feet from either end so that they come -together at both ends and are separated fifteen inches along -the middle for five or six feet as shown in Fig. 23. Between -the sides place four or five spreaders, two of which should be -stout enough to receive the bolts that will hold the two cross-braces -or outriggers. Set a step-block for the mast, then -plank the deck and bottom, using plenty of white-lead and -lamp-wicking between the joints.</p> - -<div id='i_241' class='figcenter id037'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span> -<img src='images/i_241.jpg' alt='Fig. 22, Fig. 23' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A PROA</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>The cross-braces or outriggers are of two-by-four-inch -clear spruce six feet long, and their outer ends are bolted to -a solid spruce timber twelve feet long, four inches wide, and -ten inches deep. They should be sharpened at both ends -with an adze, draw-knife, or a chisel and plane.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A mast twelve feet long and three inches in diameter is -stepped seven feet from the bow, and to it a lateen rig is -lashed fast having the gaff eighteen feet long and the boom -fifteen feet in length.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A block and tackle at the bow will pay off the angle and -another at the stern will regulate the position of the sail.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Cross-wires for braces may extend under the short decking -to steady the outrigger and keep it from racking the braces, -and three or four narrow planks can be laid across the braces -close to the large boat on which the boy and a friend or two -may sit when sailing.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A rudder may be attached to the stern of the large boat, -as shown in Fig. 17, or an oar can be used to steer with.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Paint the boats any desired color, and for the first time -give them at least three or four thin coats not less than two -days apart, so that one will dry thoroughly before the next -one is laid on. Never put thick or gummy paint on a boat; -thin it down and apply two coats rather than one thick one.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiii_7' class='c014'>A Lark</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Perhaps the safest kind of a sailing-craft next to a catamaran -is a lark with a broad beam and flat at both bow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span>and stern. There are various forms of the half-rater, but -the one shown in Fig. 24 is easy to construct and requires -less careful fitting and joining than the hulls with pointed -bows and long, overhanging sterns.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In general construction this hull is similar to the punt, -and when putting it together the description for the building -of the punt must be borne in mind.</p> - -<div id='i_243' class='figcenter id038'> -<img src='images/i_243.jpg' alt='Fig. 24' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Obtain two clear cedar planks sixteen feet long and from -fourteen to sixteen inches wide. Four feet from either end -begin to round the lower edges of these side boards. Cut -two spreaders five feet and six inches long and make them -<span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>fast four feet from the ends of the sides as shown at Fig. 25. -Between these spreaders attach an inner keel in the forward -end of which an opening has been made. The keel is of -hard-wood eight inches wide and the opening is three inches -and a half in width and four feet and eight inches long.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A centre-board trunk is made and fitted into this opening -as described for the sailing sharpy. Then braces are fastened -between the sides and trunk as shown at Fig. 26.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two bevelled hard-wood bow and stern pieces are cut as -shown at Fig. 27. The ends of the boards are sprung in and -attached to the ends of these pieces, and between them and -the spreaders two more boards are fastened as indicated by -the lines of nail-heads in Fig. 26. At the bow just ahead of -the forward long cross-piece or spreader step the mast, and -at the stern make the rudder-post trunk, taking care to use -plenty of white-lead and lamp-wick so as to render the -joints water-tight. Put a line of braces through the middle -of the frame, then begin at the bow and plank the bottom -with boards not more than three or four inches wide.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With the planking on and the braces, spreaders, and trunk -in position the frame will appear as shown in Fig. 28. The -deck planking is of strips seven-eighths of an inch thick and -three inches wide. Begin at the middle of the boat by laying -down a strip six inches wide by one inch and a quarter -in thickness. Drive the deck planking close to this and -smear the points with white-lead in which the lamp-wicking -is embedded. Make all the fastenings with galvanized boat -nails and drive the heads well into the wood with a nail-punch -so they can be puttied and covered from the action -of the water. An outer flat keel is laid along the bottom -of the hull from the forward part of the cockpit or about -under the mast. This leads aft to where the stern begins -to round up and there it is stopped.</p> - -<div id='i_245' class='figcenter id039'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_233'>233</span> -<img src='images/i_245.jpg' alt='Fig. 25, Fig. 26, Fig. 27, Fig. 28, Fig. 29' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A LARK</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_234'>234</span>This keel is attached with galvanized or brass screws, and -a generous number are driven through the keel into the -bottom edges of the centre-board trunk.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rudder is made from galvanized sheet-iron as shown -at Fig. 29, and is let into a one-and-a-quarter-inch round iron -rudder-post and riveted fast. Just above the rudder-blade -a collar of iron is welded to the post and this bears against -the bottom of the boat. To prevent the rudder from dropping -down a pin is passed through a hole in the post close to -the deck and a large washer made fast to the deck will prevent -the pin from chafing the wood.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Have the top of the post made with a square shank so -that a tiller may fit over it and be held in position by a nut.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rudder-blade should be twenty-six inches long and -twelve inches wide.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The mast is fifteen feet long, cut from a four-inch spruce -stick with draw-knife and plane. The boom is fifteen feet -long, cut from a two-and-one-half-inch spruce stick, and the -gaff is eleven feet long.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Extending out from the mast and attached to the deck -is a short bowsprit five feet and six inches long. This is of -two-by-three-inch spruce with the sharp corners rounded -off beyond the end of the boat.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A wire forestay and two shrouds lead from mast-head to -bowsprit and to both sides of the boat as shown in Fig. 24.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The main-sheet is seven feet on the mast, ten feet on the -gaff, fourteen feet at the foot or on the boom, and eighteen -<span class='pageno' id='Page_235'>235</span>feet on the leach. The jib is eleven feet on the forestay, -five feet at the foot, and ten feet on the leach. The blocks -are all of galvanized iron or wood, and three-eighth-inch -Manila-rope should be used for the halyards and sheets.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This lark will ride well on the water, and if properly -rigged it should be a very speedy boat.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiii_8' class='c014'>A Power-boat</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A novel feature for the propulsion of a flat-bottom boat -or punt is shown in Fig. 30. Two small paddle-wheels -attached to one shaft are hung out over the stern, and by -means of a sprocket on the shaft connected to another and -larger one on the seat frame the wheels are turned by the -boys who mount the seats and work the pedals.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The punt is fifteen feet long on the deck line and six feet -wide. The side boards are twelve inches wide, and with the -thickness of the deck and bottom planking it will make the -total depth about fourteen inches. Through the middle a -strengthening rib is run the same size and thickness as the -outer sides as shown in Fig. 31. This gives an additional -rib to nail the sheathing boards to and also an anchorage to -which the uprights forming the seat frame can be made fast -with bolts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The outriggers that suspend the wheels are of spruce two -inches thick and three inches wide. They are bolted to the -deck and at the outer end U-notches are cut for the axle of -the wheels to fit into and capped with iron straps such as -shown in Fig. 32. A blacksmith will make these for you -from strap-iron an eighth of an inch thick and two inches -<span class='pageno' id='Page_236'>236</span>wide. They should be bolted on when the wheels are in -position, for they not only have to support the weight of the -wheels but also stand the action of the water against them.</p> - -<div id='i_248' class='figcenter id040'> -<img src='images/i_248.jpg' alt='Fig. 30, Fig. 31, Fig. 32, Fig. 33' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The wheels are each twenty-four inches in diameter and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_237'>237</span>two feet long, and are made from wood seven-eighths of -an inch in thickness. Seven blades eight inches wide are -screwed fast to the sides or held in place with long, galvanized -boat nails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The axle is of spruce two inches square, and the wheel -sides are provided with square holes through which the axle -is driven as shown in Fig. 33. The ends of the axle are banded -with iron, or copper wire may be wound round them to -prevent their splitting. Into the ends half-inch round iron -pins are driven which revolve in the bearings.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The seat-frame is thirty inches high and made from spruce -rails three inches wide and one inch and a half in thickness. -On the middle upright a large and small gear wheel are -arranged on an axle with the cranks and pedals, and on the -front post a small wheel is attached so that tandem power -may be used on the paddle-wheels or one boy alone can -work the boat. A rod and handle-bars may be arranged for -the rear boy to grasp, and with a socket and set-screw it -can be raised or lowered at will.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The forward bars have a cross-piece of iron at the foot of -the vertical rod. This is two feet long, and from the ends of -it running aft wires connect with the ends of a tiller for -operating the rudder.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rudder is hung between the wheels on a skag which -is the rear extension of a short keel that should be nailed -fast to hold the punt steady on the water.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Four canopy poles may be arranged to fit into sockets at -the sides, and an awning six by ten feet can be supported -over the machinery of the boat to keep off sun and rain.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This is a genuine boy-power boat, and as the wheels are -<span class='pageno' id='Page_238'>238</span>substantially large and strong it can be driven over the -water at quite a good speed. While it takes two boys to -properly run it, that is not the boat’s capacity, for she will -easily carry from four to six boys, their lunch-baskets, or a -one-day camping outfit for a visit up the river or lake.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_239'>239</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xiv' class='c016'>Chapter XIV<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>CATAMARANS</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_xiv_1' class='c014'>A Rowing Catamaran</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_2_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>For</span> safety on the water, as nearly as safety can be -assured, there is nothing to compare with a catamaran, -for they are practically “non-capsizable,” and if not damaged -to the leaking-point one or the other of the two boats will -float and hold up several persons. Fig. 1 gives a good idea -for a rowing catamaran that any boy can make from some -boards and light timbers. It is provided with a seat and -oar-locks so that the occupant may be seated above the -water far enough to row easily.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The boats are fourteen feet long, eighteen inches wide, and -fourteen inches deep, including the bottom and deck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Pine, white-wood, cedar, or cypress, three-quarters of an -inch thick and planed on both sides, will be necessary from -which to construct the boats. At the bow the ends of the -sides are attached to a stern-piece of hard-wood as shown -in Fig. 2. Having poured boiling water on the forward -ends, they may be drawn around a spreader sixteen inches -long and twelve inches wide provided with two U-cuts as -shown in Fig. 3. These are placed at the bottom, so that any -water may be run to one end of a boat where it can be -pumped out.</p> - -<div id='i_252' class='figcenter id005'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_240'>240</span> -<img src='images/i_252.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The first spreader is placed three feet from the bow, and -three or four more of them should be fastened between the -sides as shown in Fig. 4, the last one being three feet from -the stern where the sides begin to curve up to the upper -edge of the stern and to the deck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bottom is of three-inch pine or white-wood boards -seven-eighths of an inch thick and well leaded in the joints -and along the edges where the bottom and top boards join -<span class='pageno' id='Page_241'>241</span>the sides. Before the top or deck is placed on, the interior -of the boats should have two or three good coats of paint.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Three cross-stringers of spruce two and one-half by four -inches and six feet long are securely attached to the boats, -and on these the deck of four-inch boards is made fast as -the illustration will show. Between the middle and forward -stringer, at the ends, two boards are attached on which the -row-locks may be fastened. These boards are eight or nine -inches wide and cut away at the front so that they are not -more than two or three inches wide.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The high ends are braced with round iron braces as shown -in the illustration, and where the oar-locks are mounted a -short plate of wood is screwed fast to the inside of each -piece.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Near the front cross-piece a seat is built and braced with -a board. With another boy at the stern sitting on the -deck this catamaran will be well balanced and will prove -very seaworthy, as well as a light boat to row.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiv_2' class='c014'>A Sailing Catamaran</h4> - -<p class='c015'>It is almost impossible to upset a sailing catamaran even -in a gale, and for boys a boat of this kind affords a great -deal of comparatively safe pleasure.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A catamaran is about the easiest sort of a boat to make, -and no matter in what locality one lives there is always -material at hand from which to make one as the wood is -similar to that used for house construction.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 5 shows a side elevation of a safe catamaran, and in -Fig. 6 the deck plan is shown. In Fig. 7 an elevation view -<span class='pageno' id='Page_242'>242</span>of the stern shows the arrangement of the boats, deck timbers, -and rudders.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The boats are fifteen feet long, eighteen inches wide at the -middle, and two feet deep uniformly from bow to stern except -for a short distance at the bow where the keel rounds up.</p> - -<p class='c011'>They are in the form of a V, and at the ends the angle becomes -more acute, so that at the stem and stern the lines are -vertical.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Four feet from both ends the deck line begins to curve as -shown in Fig. 6, and in Fig. 8 the cross-braces are shown. -They are cut in at the bottom to slip over the keel and to -them the sheathing planks are made fast.</p> - -<div id='i_254' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_254.jpg' alt='Fig. 5' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_243'>243</span>In Fig. 8 the curved stem-piece and one side of planking -is shown, and it indicates also where the curved stem-piece -is joined to the keel, which extends in a straight line to the -stern of the boats.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The keel is of hard-wood one inch and a quarter thick and -six inches wide. The cross-braces or spreaders are of pine -or other soft wood seven-eighths of an inch thick and made -up of three pieces of wood with the grain running vertically.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The sheathing is of pine, cedar, or cypress three-quarters -of an inch thick, planed on both sides, and three or four -inches wide. Each board should be given a priming coat of -paint before it is nailed to the braces, and where the planks -are edged together white-lead and lamp-wick should be employed -for calking. Galvanized boat nails are to be used -for all the fastenings, but screws may be employed where it -is necessary to have a very secure joint.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The cross-pieces that fasten the boats together are bolted -fast by means of long bolts that pass through the timbers -and deck and into stout pieces of wood that are nailed fast -to the upper part of the spreaders as shown at A in Fig. 8. -The boats are decked over with the three-quarter-inch planking, -and to insure an absolutely tight deck the wood may be -treated to a thick coat of paint and covered with canvas -which is pressed down well into the paint and the edges -tacked down over the sides of the boats. The canvas is then -given a coat or two of paint and allowed to dry thoroughly, -after which it can be sand-papered and finished with the -desired shade of paint.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Three spruce timbers eight feet long, three inches thick, -and six inches wide are bored with holes at the ends where -<span class='pageno' id='Page_244'>244</span>the bolts pass through them and into the boats. Running -parallel to the boats three timbers are laid across the brace-timbers -and on top of these the deck planking is nailed. -These pieces are two and one-half by four inches, and ten -feet long, and are bolted down with long slim bolts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The decking is formed of slats three-quarters of an -inch thick and four inches wide nailed down to these -stringers. Spaces half an inch wide are left between each -one.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bowsprit is of three-by-four-inch spruce left with its -square corners for half its length but dressed round at the -outer end. It is caught under the middle cross-brace where -the end is bolted, and extending over the front piece it projects -four or five feet beyond the bow ends of the boats. -With wire-cable the bowsprit end is stayed to the bow of -each boat, where turn-buckles can be caught into eyes in -the stem-posts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The mast is of spruce dressed from a four-inch spruce stick -and slightly tapered at the top. It is fifteen feet long and -stepped at the middle of the front cross-piece and on top of -the bowsprit where it is held in place with a collar and iron -braces as shown in the illustration. Fig. 5.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Standing rigging of wire-cable stays the mast from the -top to both ends of the front cross-piece as indicated by the -dotted line in Fig. 7.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Three short posts are made fast to the cross-pieces close -to the decking, and holes bored in the tops of them will hold -a safety-rope around the deck.</p> - -<div id='i_257' class='figcenter id041'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_245'>245</span> -<img src='images/i_257.jpg' alt='Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A SAILING CATAMARAN</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The rudder-posts are of hard-wood one inch and a quarter -thick and two inches and a half in width. They are three -<span class='pageno' id='Page_246'>246</span>feet long and to the upper end of each a strap of metal is -arranged to receive the tiller as shown in Fig. 9.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The tillers are of hard-wood three feet long and their inner -ends are connected with a hard-wood stick by means of -which the steering is done and both rudders operated at the -same time.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rudders, made from two sheets of galvanized iron, -are riveted fast to the rudder-posts and are twelve inches -high and fifteen inches long. Pins on the posts fit into eyes -attached to the stern-post of the boats, and in Fig. 10 the -arrangement of rudders, tillers, and connecting-rod is shown.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The main-sail is of twilled cotton that can be had at a dry-goods -store for about ten cents a yard, and a rib should be -sewed through the middle of each breadth to strengthen the -cloth. The sail is nine feet and six inches on the mast, six -feet on the gaff, thirteen feet on the boom, and fifteen feet -on the leach. The jib, also of twilled cotton, is eleven feet -and six inches on the forestay, eight feet across the foot, and -eight feet and six inches on the leach. The blocks can be -of galvanized iron but patent sheave-wood blocks are preferable.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For the halyards Manila-rope three-eighths of an inch in -diameter will be the right size, and a half-inch anchor-rope -will be stout enough, since a catamaran does not tug as -heavily on an anchor as does a boat.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The wood-work of the boat and deck should be painted -and the spars varnished. A pretty effect will be to paint -the boat a rich olive green, with buff decks, and all the cross-pieces -and deck planking in ivory white.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The ordinary sailing rules will apply to the handling of a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_247'>247</span>catamaran. With these wedge-shaped boats you can sail -quite close to the wind, but if round-bottomed and shallower -boats are used they will have to be provided with centre-boards.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xiv_3' class='c014'>A Side-wheel Catamaran</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The rowing catamaran can easily be converted into a side-wheel -boat by removing the middle slat of the deck and -making an opening through which a chain will lead to a cog -or sprocket wheel on an axle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the outer side of each boat, between the middle and rear -cross-braces, fasten two pieces of wood two inches wide and -three inches high. Six or eight inches from the rear end -make two U-cuts for a five-eighth-inch axle to fit into. At -a blacksmith’s obtain two old carriage or buggy wheels, and -cut the spokes so that they will be fourteen inches long from -the hub. Dress one side of each spoke flat, so that a paddle -may be attached to it with screws. The paddles are of hard-wood, -eight inches wide at the outer end, six at the inner end, -and six inches deep.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Have a blacksmith heat the ends of an axle and pound -them square, then slip one hub over the iron, and with hard-wood -wedges make it fast. The other wheel can be slipped -on when the axle is in place and attached in a similar manner. -It would be best to remove the old iron boxes from the hubs, -so that a few screws can be driven through the hub and into -the wedges to help in holding them securely in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 11, which is a stern view of the rowing catamaran, -one of the paddle-wheels is shown in place, and it also shows -the location of the axle, the sprocket-wheel, and the chain -<span class='pageno' id='Page_248'>248</span>that leads to the large sprocket-wheel by means of which -the axle is turned.</p> - -<div id='i_260' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_260.jpg' alt='Fig. 11' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>An old bicycle chain and sprockets, together with the axle, -cranks, and pedals, can be arranged on a frame, so that a -saddle may be mounted the proper distance above the pedals. -This arrangement is clearly shown in the illustration, which -shows also the outrigger timbers at the stern, to which a -sheet-iron rudder may be made fast. It is operated by a -handle and bar, which turns the rudder by means of flexible -wire-rope run through two deck-pulleys at the outer rear -ends of the deck planking. The iron rod is held in place to -the forward upright of the seat-frame with metal straps. -At its lower end a wooden wheel having a groove is made -fast, around which a wrap or two of the wire-cable is taken -to hold the rudder steady.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_249'>249</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xv' class='c016'>Chapter XV<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>ICE-BOATS</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_xv_1' class='c014'>A Sloop-rigged Ice-yacht</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_2_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>For</span> travelling over the ice there is nothing to beat an -ice-yacht, and some that have been constructed on the -Hudson River are of gigantic size and power. Boats of this -kind, and having the speed of an express-train, are dangerous -for boys to play with, but the ordinary ice-boat that will go -from ten to twenty miles an hour is within the ability of any -well-grown boy to make and safely handle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is quite a simple matter to make a good ice-boat, for it -is but a framework properly put together and bolted, on top -of which a deck is nailed, with a mast-step arranged at the -front.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 1 shows the elevation view of a moderately sized -sloop-yacht; and in Fig. 2 the deck plan is shown, the joints -and deck boards being clearly indicated. The triangular -body of the boat is ten feet long and eight feet wide, and the -bowsprit projects out six feet beyond the timber A in Fig. 2.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The frame is made of clear spruce timbers six inches wide -and two inches thick. The timber A is eight feet long, B B -are eleven feet long, C is five feet long, and D D are each -three feet long.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_250'>250</span>At the front corners and at the back the timbers are bevelled, -as shown in the plan drawing, and they are joined with -long bolts as indicated by the dotted lines. Timbers C and -D D are set in place and securely fastened with long, steel-wire -spikes. The bowsprit E is mounted against timber C -and laid over timber A, to which it is bolted fast. A half-inch -iron pin is driven in the butt end of the bowsprit, and -it fits into a hole made in timber C.</p> - -<div id='i_262' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_262.jpg' alt='Fig. 1' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The bowsprit is cut from spruce two inches and a half by -four inches, and tapered at the outer end, where a withe having -three eyes is driven on. The top eye receives the forestay -and the side ones the bobstay cables that run to the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_251'>251</span>corners of the boat, where they are drawn taut with turn-buckles. -The shoe-blocks F F are twenty-four inches long -and three inches square, and are bolted to the timbers A and -B as shown.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the stern a triangular block is mounted between the -ends of the timbers B B, through which the rudder-post will -pass. The decking planks G are then attached to the frame -with screws or steel nails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The mast-step is made by attaching two twelve-inch -pieces of plank eighteen inches long and an inch and a quarter -thick to the inside sides of timbers D D. Across the top -of them attach another plank, and in the middle of it cut a -hole three inches and a half in diameter, or large enough to -receive the mast. In the bowsprit, directly under the large -hole, make a small one to receive a three-quarter-inch pin. -This iron pin is to be driven in the bottom of the mast so -that six inches of it projects beyond the bottom of the stick. -These will form the mast-step, and when the mast is in place -and held by the forestay and shrouds it cannot jump out. -Iron stanchion-rods are attached to the top of the mast-plate -and to the inside of timber A as shown in the illustration.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The shoes are of tire, steel and will have to be made by a -blacksmith. The front ones are thirty inches long, curved -up at the front, as shown in Fig. 3 A, and bevelled at the bottom -so as to form a gripping or cutting edge. When mounted -the lower edge is at the outside of the boat. Shanks with -bolt-tops and collars pass through the holes made in the -shoe-blocks F F, and are securely held with nuts screwed -down on washers so as not to cut the wood.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_252'>252</span>The rudder (Fig. 3 B) is a chisel-edged piece of steel twelve -inches long turned up at both ends and mounted at the foot -of a shank C, which is provided with a collar, a square -shoulder for the tiller D to fit on, and a threaded top so that -a nut will hold the tiller in place. The shoes can only be -made of steel or iron, as wooden ones are useless.</p> - -<div id='i_264' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_264.jpg' alt='Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 6, Fig. 7' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The mast is twelve feet high and three inches and a half -or four inches in diameter, slightly tapered near the top. -The gaff is six feet long and the boom twelve feet in length. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_253'>253</span>The main-sail measures eight feet on the mast, five feet on -the gaff, eleven on the boom, and the leach is thirteen feet -long. The jib is ten feet on the forestay, six feet at the foot, -and eight feet on the leach. This sail area will present a -good surface to the wind, and with an ordinary breeze the -boat should make from eight to twelve miles an hour with -two or three boys on the deck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rigging is done in the same manner in which boats are -fitted out. The spars should be varnished and the boat can -be painted or varnished, as a matter of choice. All white -wood-work with black metal parts, or a red frame with -cream-colored deck and black metal parts, are pleasing combinations, -but a boy’s own ideas can be carried out with the -paint-pot and brush.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xv_2' class='c014'>A Twin-mast Ice-boat</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The twin-mast ice-boat shown in Fig. 4 is the same size -as the other one, and built in the same manner except that -timbers D D in Fig. 2 are omitted and a smaller deck is laid -at the stern.</p> - -<p class='c011'>One foot back from the corners three-inch masts are -stepped in holes made in timbers B B to receive half-inch -iron pins driven in the foot of the masts. The sticks are -eleven feet long and lashed together at the top or bolted -with several long, thin bolts as shown in the illustration. -They pitch forward at a slight angle, or so that the forestay -is eleven feet long.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The gaff is sixteen feet long and the boom eighteen feet -in length, and the leach of the sail is fourteen feet.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_254'>254</span>The gaff is hauled up into the crotch formed by the masts, -and a set of blocks and tackle at the bottom of the sail on -the boom and the deck will haul the sail into the proper -position. It then swings free between the masts, and the -jib and main-sail form one large sheet, so that when the main-sheet -goes to one side or the other the jib always takes the -opposite position and the wind is playing on the entire sail -at all times.</p> - -<div id='i_266' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_266.jpg' alt='Fig. 4' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>This is a very easy rig to handle as it relieves the steersman -from the bother of the jib-sheets which are annoying -in a stiff breeze.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xv_3' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_255'>255</span>Scoots and Scooters</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Scoots and scooters are the latest wrinkle in ice-boats. -Down on the Great South Bay, on the southern side of Long -Island, they speak of them in fun as “ice-water boats.” The -advantage in a boat of this kind lies in their ability to sail -on poor ice or to go across water that is partly open and -frozen as many of the bays along the coast are at times.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The scoot shown in Fig. 5 is in the form of a sharpy, but -the bottom curves up at the bow so that if it is sailing on -the water and comes to the edge of an ice-floe that is not too -high out of the water the wind will blow the boat up on the -ice and it will sail along on its runners at double its previous -speed. In the same manner when it comes to open water -it will slip off the ice quite comfortably and become again a -marine craft.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The model and descriptions of a centre-board sharpy may -be taken for the construction of the boat, except that there -is no stem or bow-post and the bottom rounds up the same -as the side boards curve in. The bow is therefore nearly a -point. This construction is shown in Fig. 6 (page 252), -which is a view of the sides and bottom only, the deck -planking being fastened down afterwards.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The boat should be calked with white-lead and lamp-wicking -and as carefully made as a water-boat, for it must be -absolutely tight and water-proof. The deck may be covered -with canvas and painted, or it may be of varnished or painted -wood.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The hull should be from twelve to fifteen feet long and -from four to five feet wide across the widest part. It is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_256'>256</span>fifteen inches deep, and is provided with a centre-board -and trunk the same as described for the sailing sharpy on -page 221.</p> - -<div id='i_268' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_268.jpg' alt='Fig. 5' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The mast is twelve feet long or about ten feet above the -deck; the gaff is seven feet and the boom eleven feet -long. The bowsprit is four feet long and is bolted to the -forward deck, and from the end of it to the top of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_257'>257</span>mast a light, wire-cable forestay is made fast for the jib to -run on.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The sails are made of twilled drill or very heavy unbleached -muslin, and in the main-sheet one or two sets of reef-points -will be necessary. The main-sail measures seven feet -on the mast, six feet and six inches on the gaff, ten feet and -six inches on the boom, and thirteen feet on the leach. The -jib measures seven feet on the forestay, four feet across the -foot, and six feet on the leach. The sail-cloth should be -ribbed to strengthen it and a light rope run around all the -edges of both sails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The shoes are made of light, broad tire iron or steel twenty-four -inches long and shaped so that the front part will bolt -fast to the outside of the scooter sides and the rear ends will -lie against the bottom of the boat where they can be bolted -fast. The shape of these shoes is shown in Fig. 7 A (page -252), and any blacksmith will make them for you at a -nominal cost. The rudder is of stout sheet-iron mounted -in the end of a shank as shown at Fig. 7 B (page 252). Its -fan-tail permits it to swing the boat in the water and its -lower edge will guide it on the ice.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rudder-post should be attached to the skag which is -arranged at the under side and rear of the boat, and with a -short iron tiller fastened as shown in Fig. 3 C and D the -rudder may be swung.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When sailing on the ice the centre-board should be hauled -up as high as it will go, for it is of use only when the boat is -in the water.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A scoot is a cranky boat on the ice as the runners or fore-shoes -are closer together than on an ice-boat with a triangular -<span class='pageno' id='Page_258'>258</span>frame. Going before the wind it is all right, but when -sailing on or up into a stiff wind it will keep a boy moving -to hold his balance and steady the boat.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The shovel-nosed scooter shown in Fig. 8 is an easier boat -to handle as it is broader than the sharpy, but it is not quite -so fast, being slightly heavier.</p> - -<div id='i_270' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_270.jpg' alt='Fig. 8' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>It is twelve feet long over all with a five-foot beam and -fourteen inches high including deck and bottom. The side -boards are twelve inches wide, curved up at the bow, and -bent in at the stern as shown in the illustration.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_259'>259</span>Twin masts are stepped two feet from the bow and lashed -together nine feet above the deck. The rigging is the same -as for the twin-mast ice-boat, and the sail measures twelve -feet on the gaff, fourteen feet on the boom, with the leach -eleven feet in length.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A small centre-board mounted in a trunk will be necessary -for water sailing, and with several coats of paint the -scooter will be ready for use.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xv_4' class='c014'>A Wind-runner</h4> - -<p class='c015'>An interesting boat for a boy to sail is a wind-runner like -the one shown in Fig. 9.</p> - -<div id='i_271' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_271.jpg' alt='Fig. 9, Fig. 10' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Two spruce planks twelve feet long and ten inches wide are -attached to three battens and separated four inches. The -<span class='pageno' id='Page_260'>260</span>stern batten is four inches high and two inches wide, and -through a hole made in the middle the shank of the rudder-post -extends, from the top of which the tiller works.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The front ends of the planks are rounded and mounted -on a triangular framework six feet across at the front and -extending back about five feet from the ends of the planks.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A mast three inches in diameter and nine feet high is -stepped through a collar and into a block attached to the -back of the front cross-piece as shown in Fig. 10. An iron -pin at the bottom of the mast drops into a hole made in the -block and the backstays hold the mast in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A yard-arm eight feet long supports a square sail six feet -wide, which is caught at the lower ends to the outer ends of -the triangle frame.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The shoes attached to the triangle frame with bolts are -fifteen inches long and the rudder-blade is ten inches long.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This is a rapid sailer before the wind, and with a little -manœuvring the runner can be made to sail on the wind, -though it will not run nearly as close to the wind as the ice-boats -or scoots. Paint or varnish will give the wood-work a -good finish, and under a stiff breeze this wind-runner will -carry four or five boys.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_261'>261</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xvi' class='c016'>Chapter XVI<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>HOUSE-BOATS AND RAFTS</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_xvi_1' class='c014'>A House-punt</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_5_0_8 c017'>A house-punt of very simple construction is shown in -Fig. 1. The punt is from sixteen to twenty-four feet -long according to the size desired, but for a party of four -boys it should be twenty-four feet long, eight feet wide, and -two feet deep with a cabin eight feet high.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The sides and middle rib should be of pine, spruce, or -white-wood one inch and a quarter thick, free from sappy -places and knots. If the boards cannot be had as long as -twenty-four feet nor as wide as two feet, use two boards -twelve inches wide and make one joint at the middle of the -lower board and two in the upper board as shown in the -drawing of the side elevation (Fig. 2). Six inches down -from the top at either end and thirty inches in at the bottom -cut the sides as shown so that the punt will have a shovel-nose -at both ends and can be poled or sailed in either -direction. Make a third or middle rib the same size as the -side board. This is to be placed at the middle of the punt -so as to receive the sheathing and deck planking. The -arrangement of this middle rib and the side boards is shown -in Fig. 3 and at A in Fig. 3. A batten is shown to which -<span class='pageno' id='Page_262'>262</span>the upper and lower boards of a side are nailed fast. If the -two boards are used it will be necessary to arrange these -battens along the inside of each side about eighteen inches -apart. They should be of tough wood five or six inches -wide, an inch and a quarter thick, and two feet long.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Galvanized boat nails should be used, and when driven -in from the outside they should be clinched at the inside. -Good boat nails are of malleable iron stiff enough to go -through hard-wood but ductile enough to be turned over at -the ends with a light hammer and quick, sharp blows.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The sheathing and deck planking should be not less than -four inches and not more than six inches in width, and before -it is put on it should be well sun-dried to take out all moisture. -It should then be given two good coats of paint on both sides -to make it water-proof.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Lay the sides and middle rib bottom up and begin to -sheath from one end. Lumber sixteen feet long should be -used, and this, when cut in half, will make two pieces from -each length. If matched boards are used smear the edges -with white-lead before the boards are driven together, but if -straight-edge lumber is employed it will be necessary to lead -and wick the joints. This is done by taking a piece of round -iron one-quarter of an inch in diameter and eight inches long -and bending it as shown at Fig. 4 A. Lay this on the flat -edge of each board at the middle and heat the iron so as to -form a groove as shown at Fig. 4 B. The wood, having been -beaten in, forms a gully in which a string of lamp-wick can -be laid as shown in Fig. 4 C. The groove must not be cut -with a chisel for then its effect would be lost. The object -of this treatment is that when the punt is in the water the -joint swells forcing out the wood against the lamp-wick and -making a water-tight joint. The edges of the wood and the -wicking must be well smeared with white-lead in order to -properly calk the joint.</p> - -<div id='i_275' class='figcenter id042'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_263'>263</span> -<img src='images/i_275.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A HOUSE-PUNT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_264'>264</span>Between the middle rib and each side an inner keel should -be arranged so that each plank can be nailed fast to it. This -will act as an additional brace to hold the sheathing planks -in place and make the bottom more rigid. This inner keel -should extend from end to end of the punt, and short pieces -may be laid inside the bevelled ends to lend added strength.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At each end a spruce plank eight inches wide is made fast -with long boat nails, first leading all the joints to make them -water-tight. The deck planks are laid on the same as the -sheathing, and to brace them from underneath, in the space -between the middle rib and the sides, two-by-three-inch -spruce rails are propped on short sticks which are nailed to -the inner keel and to the rails as shown at Fig. 5. These -under props should be arranged about eighteen inches apart, -the entire length of the punt. Groove the upper edges of -the end and side planks with the iron, then lay the lamp-wicking -in, lead, and nail down the planking, taking care to -put the nails in straight and true. When the punt is finished -give it several good coats of copper paint on the bottom -and sides and several coats of good marine paint on the -deck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To construct the cabin lay down the sill-joist of two-by-three-inch -spruce, making the plan fourteen feet long and -seven feet and eight inches wide (Fig. 6). To this nail -the uprights and bracing timbers, forming the sides and -ends as shown in the drawings of the side and end elevation -<span class='pageno' id='Page_265'>265</span>(Fig. 7). The door spaces at the ends should be three feet -wide and seven feet high, so that when trimmed and the -doors hung the actual size will be two feet and eight inches -wide by six feet and ten inches high.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The window openings are two feet wide by two feet and -six inches high, and between all the uprights braces are -nailed fast to prevent the frame from racking. The arrangement -of framing timbers is quite clearly shown in the drawings, -and in the deck plan (Fig. 6) the arrangement of the -bunks is indicated. Across the top of the framework one-and-a-half-by-six-inch -beams are laid having their upper -edge crowned as shown in the end elevation (Fig. 7). Over -these the roofing boards are laid lengthwise, and on top of -them canvas is drawn and tacked down all around the edges -with copper tacks.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The roofing boards may be of three-quarter-inch stuff -planed on both sides and from two to four inches wide, -whichever is the easiest to obtain. The boards should extend -over the ends and sides for two or three inches so that -a finishing moulding can be made fast under the boards. -Give the top of the boards two good coats of paint, then -stretch oiled canvas over the top and tack it fast. Several -coats of paint will finish the canvas and make it hard enough -to walk on, for in pleasant weather this upper deck will make -a pleasant place to spend many hours under the shade of a -canopy. The cabin sheathing is of narrow matched boards -planed on both sides and as free from knots and sappy places -as it is possible to get them. The boards must be thoroughly -sun-dried before they are laid on and nailed fast, and it -would be well also to paint the matched edges so that moisture -<span class='pageno' id='Page_266'>266</span>may not get in and swell them. The inside and outside -of the cabin is to be painted to protect the wood from -moisture, and if painted a light tint of any color, or white, it -will be cooler in summer when the sun is shining than if -coated with a dark color. Dark colors absorb light and -heat while light ones reflect or shed them.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The window-sashes should be arranged on hinges so that -they may be swung in and back against the inside of the -cabin and hooked. Or, by cutting away a part of the upright, -the sash may be arranged to slide. Wire screening -may be tacked over the window-frame at the outer side to -keep out flies and mosquitoes, and screen doors can be made -also for the front and rear doorways—to swing in, as the -wooden doors swing out.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Over the rear deck a canopy is arranged on poles. This -is similar to a tent fly for camping, and will shed the sun and -rain from the deck when the cook is preparing meals.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A small cook-stove may be arranged inside the cabin, but -if it is not convenient to carry coal in a box on the deck an -oil-stove will answer every purpose.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two bunks may be built in on each side, one above the -other, and four wire springs may be arranged to rest on -battens driven across the bunks at the head and foot. A -small hatch should be cut in the rear deck and another one -through the cabin floor so that a few things may be stored -in the hold. The aft hatch should be provided with a suction-pump -so that any water that leaks in can be readily -pumped out.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Rings, cleats, and ropes should be provided for the punt, -and two anchors would be better than one, especially when -<span class='pageno' id='Page_267'>267</span>near the shore or in shallow water, to hold the punt from -swinging, which it is sure to do if there is any wind or waves. -Always anchor it so that the wind is blowing on one end and -not broadside as it is a strain on the anchors and ropes to -hold a boat broadside on.</p> - -<p class='c011'>By erecting a spar fifteen or twenty feet high and four or -five inches in diameter, a square-sail can be rigged on yard-arms -so that the house-punt can be sailed before the wind. -A long oar will be necessary to steer with, or a portable -rudder may be made and hung to the stern with pins and -ropes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A house-punt of this description will be a very great -source of enjoyment to several boys in the summer-time, -and in the winter when not in use the punt can be hauled -out on shore, the windows boarded up, and old canvas -drawn over the decks to protect them from the sun.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xvi_2' class='c014'>A House-raft</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Almost any boy can build a fairly good boat, even if it is -a flat-bottomed sharpy. But to build a raft of the proper -size, and on it a house that may be comfortably occupied, -will require the aid of a good carpenter who understands -construction, and under whose direction several boys can -work to good advantage.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For a party of four or five young fellows, a very convenient -and commodious house-raft at anchor is shown in Fig. 8. -The raft is about thirty-eight feet long and twelve feet wide, -while the house is twenty-three feet long and twelve feet -wide by nine feet high from raft deck to top of house.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_268'>268</span>These dimensions will, if necessary, permit the raft to be -taken through any canal, and without mast and deck-rails -it will pass under the road bridges that span the canals.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If the house-raft is to be used on canals only, it will be -better not to have the mast, and the deck-rail may be -arranged so that it can be removed quickly before passing -under a low bridge.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The mast is for use on lakes, bays, or rivers only, where a -large square-sail can be hoisted on a yard-arm, and by means -of which the raft may be made to sail before the wind -slowly, so that its position may be changed from time to -time.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The construction of a house-raft is quite simple, and will -not require the services of a boat-builder, as the carpenter -can build both the raft and the house on it. To begin with, -it will be necessary to obtain four straight logs thirty-eight -feet long, as sound as possible, and not wind-racked. Two -of these logs are to be laid with the butt end at the stern, -and the other two with butts at the bow, thus giving equal -spaces between each along the entire length of the raft.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Across the ends of these logs nail a temporary strip to -keep them the proper distance apart; then at right angles -lay four-by-twelve-inch timbers on edge about two feet apart, -and spike them securely to the logs. This part of the work -should be done in shallow water, where the logs can be near -enough to shore for the workers to stand on bottom.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When laying these cross-timbers it is always well to place -the first ones about five feet apart, and stand a straight timber -across from one to the other parallel to the logs, so that -as each succeeding timber is laid it can be levelled by either -cutting slightly into the log or building up the bearing, as it -may require.</p> - -<div id='i_281' class='figcenter id043'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_269'>269</span> -<img src='images/i_281.jpg' alt='Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A HOUSE-RAFT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_270'>270</span>Having timbered the logs the entire length, begin to plank -or deck the raft with one-inch-and-a-quarter spruce boards -six inches wide, laying the strips from bow to stern.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 9 will show the position of the logs with cross-timbers -above, on top of which the planking may be seen. To the -under side of the cross-beams and midway between the logs, -planks should be fastened that will run the entire length of -the raft. These are to form a bearing against which the -upper bilge of the barrels will rest. Fig. 9 shows the heads -of three barrels, each the end one of a number that are -chained together and run all along under the raft to give it -sufficient buoyancy to counteract the displacement that -would be caused by the weight of the house and occupants.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 10 is a side view of those same barrels, showing the -position they occupy and the distance from one to the other. -Oil-barrels are the best for this purpose, and after being well -bunged they should be treated to several good coats of copper -paint before being drawn under the raft. It would be -well to leave a gallon of oil in each barrel, as it keeps the glue -sizing in good condition, and prevents it from yielding to the -dampness caused by the water, the pressure of which might -in time find its way through small cracks or openings.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A few yards of wrought-iron chain sufficiently heavy for -the purpose can be obtained and cut into short lengths, and -each end should be fitted with an eye-plate with four holes -in it, which plates are to be fastened to the ends of the barrels -with short, fat screws, having first thoroughly smeared -the back of each with white-lead. The barrels should be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_271'>271</span>arranged about one foot apart, and if the logs are from -twenty-four to thirty inches in diameter at the butt end -there should be just enough space to accommodate the three -rows of barrels between the four logs as shown in Fig. 9.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Across the logs at the bow and stern attach the planking, -to extend down a foot below the water-line, and with short -uprights against which to nail, fasten weather-boards along -the sides of the raft to cover the logs and come up flush with -the deck line.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Seven feet in from the ends of the raft lay cross-stringers, -three by six inches, at distances of eighteen inches apart, on -which to place the floor of the house. This flooring may be -of narrow spruce boards, planed on one side and having -matched edges.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The uprights for the house construction are placed on the -flooring beams and sills, and securely pinned to them, and -the cross-beams at top of house should be placed the same -distance apart as the floor beams to sustain the weight above, -as the top of the house or upper deck will be the open-air -living-room. The side elevation (Fig. 11) shows the position -of windows that will be placed on both sides of the house, -and another illustration (Fig. 12 A and B) shows both front -and rear elevations of the house, as well as the location of -companionway and deck-rails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The deck plan (Fig. 13) shows the arrangement of the -house and how it is divided into the several compartments.</p> - -<div id='i_284' class='figcenter id044'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_272'>272</span> -<img src='images/i_284.jpg' alt='Fig. 11, Fig. 12, Fig. 13' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>DETAILS OF A HOUSE-RAFT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>In the front, the dining and living saloon is a room measuring -about eight feet in width and eleven feet in length. At -one end a couch is placed which, if necessary, can be used as -a bed; and close to it are two large windows—one overlooking -<span class='pageno' id='Page_273'>273</span>the fore-deck, the other giving a view from the side of -the house. At the other end of the room a neat china-cupboard -is built into the corner, and in the opposite corner the -front door and a window are placed. One of the illustrations -is an interior view of this cabin, showing how comfortable -and attractive it can be made to appear. As it is a sort of -general mess-room and living-cabin, it can be decorated and -kept as such in a ship-shape manner.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fishing-rods, guns, and nets against the wall will take up -little space, while in the locker under the cupboard a variety -of sporting paraphernalia can be stored.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Leading aft from this saloon, a passageway opens into the -galley, a room six feet and six inches wide by eleven feet -long, where all the cooking-utensils and stores are kept.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This galley should be painted a light gray or ivory white, -with several coats of paint mixed for outside use, so the -wood-work can all be wiped down with a damp cloth when -necessary. White is always the best color for a kitchen -or galley, and it has the appearance of cleanliness that no -other color will give; it will be found to keep a room much -cooler also, and for that reason it is recommended. A rug -or rag carpet will be an acceptable covering for the floor, -which should be treated to several coats of yellow-ochre -paint.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Between the dining-saloon and the galley two state-rooms -are placed, so the passageway runs between them, and from -which the doors open that lead into them. These rooms are -each about eight feet and six inches long by nearly five feet -wide, and two berths, each three feet wide, are built in the -rooms. Both rooms have large windows, and spaces for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_274'>274</span>corner wash-stands; and as the doors open against the ends -of the berths, there is no lost space nor wasted room.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Rows of hooks will accommodate clothing, and the lower -berth should be at least twenty-two inches up from the floor -to allow room to slide a trunk or two under it. These rooms -can be ceiled and papered, or painted, as a matter of choice, -but a few coats of varnish will render the wood-work in good -shape and proof against dampness.</p> - -<p class='c011'>All the windows and doors in this boat can be of stock -sizes, so that the cost of special sizes can be avoided. The -sheathing may be of cedar shingles or of clapboards, as the -cost is about the same. The clapboards should be painted, -and will look better than shingles, although a very artistic -effect is had by staining the shingles and painting the door -and window casings in shades to match, preferably in the -brown and olive-green shades.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The flooring of the upper deck should be of regular flooring -boards with matched edges and planed on one side. Over -this flooring canvas should be stretched and tacked, and -afterwards given two or three coats of oil and varnish to -make it water-proof, and finally treated to a coat or two of -lead-colored paint. The seams should all be well laid down, -and fastened with copper or tinned tacks, driven about two -inches apart. It would be well to give the boards two good -thick coats of paint before the canvas is applied, so that -when the oil soaks through the canvas it will soften the paint -somewhat, and help to hold the canvas in its proper place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Leading from the fore-deck to the upper deck a stair or -companionway is built, and anchored securely in place to -the front of the house. The platform at the head of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_275'>275</span>staircase is braced over the front doorway by means of two -iron rods that act as brackets, and which are screwed securely -both to the under side of the platform and to the door-casing. -This can be an open stairway composed of two side ways and -eleven treads, the ends of the treads being anchored in -grooves cut in the ways, and securely fastened with screws.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The rail around the deck is of common iron gas-pipe held -in place by sockets and uprights. If the piping cannot be -had, then hickory or hard-wood poles one inch and a half in -diameter may be employed and held in place by uprights -three inches wide and thirty inches high, through which two -holes have been bored to receive the poles.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Around the fore and after decks a stringer three by six -inches can be spiked down, and to the sides near the bow and -stern large cleats should be bolted fast, by which the raft can -be moored. Amidships at the bow a large post may be fastened, -around which to attach a tow-line if necessary, and at -the stern a rudder is arranged, with the post projecting up -through the deck for a distance of a foot or eighteen inches. -A mortise should be cut in the top of this post, into which the -end of a tiller can be inserted when steering the craft, either -when in tow or under sail.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A mast twenty-five or thirty feet long can be stepped -amidships against the front of the house, and strapped fast -to the upper deck with a horseshoe band. A step-block can -be fastened to the deck into which the tenoned end of the -mast will fit.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A yard-arm about twenty feet long, or longer if desired, can -be arranged to hoist nearly to the top of the mast, and from -which a large square-sail may be rigged so the lower corners -<span class='pageno' id='Page_276'>276</span>will fasten to outriggers four or five feet long that can be -temporarily braced at the sides of the boat when sail is set. -This pole affords a good place from which to fly club or college -colors, and from which to suspend lines of colored and -Japanese lanterns to illuminate at night. This mast should -be six inches in diameter at the base, and gradually taper -near the top, and if a sail is to be used frequently, it would -be a good plan to bobstay and shroud the stick with some -standing rigging, so as to relieve it from the entire strain of -a large sail.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The top of the house affords a living-room twenty-three -feet long and twelve feet wide, and in that space a number -of chairs, a table, hammocks, and benches can be accommodated.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For lake, river, and bay use this deck can be covered by a -large awning, supported at the centre by a ridge-pole, and at -the sides by upright posts that hold a stout wire in place, -over which the striped awning canvas is caught. Drop-curtains -at the sides will be convenient to ward off the bright -sunlight, and this deck-room will be found the most delightful -place to spend the pleasant days and evenings.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Along the inland waterways a raft of this description is a -most desirable craft, as it can be towed from place to place, -and for pleasure purposes its value cannot be overestimated, -as it is a base for hunting and fishing as well as a retreat from -village life; and the pleasure and comfort that can be had -from a raft like this can well be appreciated when once tried.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To build a house-raft on these plans is not a difficult nor -an expensive piece of work, and outside of the cost of the -lumber, timber, barrels, and logs the amount is limited, unless -<span class='pageno' id='Page_277'>277</span>finish is contemplated. With materials at hand and the -help of three or four good workers, it should not require more -than a week to construct this raft and house, and if fitted -and painted in the manner described the cost should not exceed -from two hundred to three hundred dollars, including -all labor and material, according to the locality in which it -is constructed.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xvi_3' class='c014'>A Float</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In the spring, when every one who owns a boat of any sort -is painting and repairing his craft, boat-houses, and floats, a -few suggestions in regard to the floats will be found of practical -value.</p> - -<p class='c011'>My chum and I own two canoes and a row-boat. The -first year we built a boat-house, which exhausted our funds, -and we were obliged to wait till the next spring before we -could consider the expense of making a float. Most floats -are constructed of spars on logs, with a mooring on top.</p> - -<p class='c011'>As we prepared to make the float ourselves, we wanted to -find the easiest and cheapest way of doing so. The spars -were costly, and, besides, are clumsy, and for a float of adequate -size they would have to be so large that we could not -move them alone.</p> - -<p class='c011'>As we lived in the city we could not get logs, or, if we could, -we should have had a big bill for cartage. It was while we -were painting the boat-house one afternoon that we saw an -empty barrel go floating by. My chum said he had an idea -that we could make a float after all. We went to one of the -grocery stores and got four new flour-barrels, with the heads, -at a cost of twenty-five cents apiece.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_278'>278</span>We took them, two by two, over to the boat-house, and -then went to a near-by lumber-yard and got three two-by-three -sixteen-foot joists, which cost us fifty-five cents, and -one hundred square feet of boards such as are sold at thirty -dollars a thousand feet. Some nails and our tools, and we -were ready to begin work.</p> - -<p class='c011'>First we laid two barrels end to end about two feet apart; -then about twelve feet from them we laid the other two in -the same way. Then we took two of the joists and laid them -on each side of the barrels on edge. Taking the other, we -cut it in two pieces six feet long, which left a waste space of -four feet in length. We then nailed the two sixteen-foot -pieces and the two six-foot pieces together in the form of a -rectangle as in Fig. 14.</p> - -<div id='i_290' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_290.jpg' alt='Fig. 14, Fig. 15, Fig. 16' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Then, having propped the barrels to keep them in place, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_279'>279</span>we lifted this hollow rectangle onto them so that it rested -on their sides as in Fig. 15. Cutting the four-foot joists into -four one-foot pieces, we utilized them as corner braces.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Next we fastened the barrels to the frame, and, after -painting them with a coat of thick paint to fill the cracks, -we launched the craft. Then we covered the frame with the -boards, laying them crosswise. A ring-bolt in each corner -and a roller in the middle, and an old hose-pipe tacked -around the edges, completed the float as shown in Fig. 16.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This we found was a most excellent float, and, above all, it -was light, could be hauled out on the bank easily, or stored -during the winter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>As it rose and fell with the tide there was no trouble in -launching the boats at any time, whereas with a dock the -pleasures of launching at low-water are too well known to -be described.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Below is a table of expenditures:</p> - -<table class='table1' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='67%' /> -<col width='32%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>Barrels, at 25 cents each</td> - <td class='c018'>$1.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>Joists, at $20 per M</td> - <td class='c018'>.55</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>Boards, at 30 per M</td> - <td class='c018'>3.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>Nails, at 4 cents a pound</td> - <td class='c018'>.20</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>Paint, at 20 cents a can</td> - <td class='c018'>.20</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'>Rings, at 20 cents each</td> - <td class='c018'>.80</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'></td> - <td class='c018'>———</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c007'></td> - <td class='c018'>Total $5.75</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class='c011'>While the prices of these articles, particularly the lumber, -have risen somewhat, the cost of this float will remain extremely -small.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_280'>280</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xvii' class='c016'>Chapter XVII<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>MARLINE-SPIKE SEAMANSHIP</span></h3> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>Ropes</span> may be joined to one another either by knotting -or by splicing. If the rope belongs to the running -rigging (such as halyards, sheets, etc.) of the vessel, it will -be necessary to put a splice in it, as a knot would refuse to -render (pass) through the swallow (opening) in the block. -There are three kinds of splices in general use—namely, the -long, the short, and the eye-splice. When joining running -rigging a long splice is always employed, as it does not increase -the diameter of the rope, and when neatly made cannot -easily be detected. The short splice is very bulging, but it -can be made quickly and is employed in all cases where the -rope does not pass through blocks. The eye-splice is used -for making a permanent loop in the end of a rope, such, for -instance, as is seen in the hawsers by which steamboats are -temporarily made fast to a dock, the loop or eye being -thrown over the spile on the pier. Let us first consider the -making of the latter splice.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xvii_1' class='c014'>Splices</h4> - -<p class='c015'><span class='sc'>The Eye-splice</span> (Fig. 1).—Open the end of the rope and -lay the strands 1, 2, 3 upon the standing part as shown in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_281'>281</span>A in Fig. 1; now push strand 4 through the rope as shown -in B; next thrust strand 5 over the part through which the -former was passed, and last push the strand 6 through on -the opposite side. Repeat this once, then cut off the remaining -ends, and the splice will appear as in C.</p> - -<div id='i_293a' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_293a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>FIG. 1. THE EYE-SPLICE</p> -</div> -</div> -<div id='i_293b' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_293b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>FIG. 2. THE SHORT SPLICE</p> -</div> -</div> -<div id='i_293c' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_293c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>FIG. 3. THE LONG SPLICE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>The Short Splice</span> (Fig. 2).—Hold the rope B (Fig. 2 A) -<span class='pageno' id='Page_282'>282</span>in the left hand; pass the strand 4 over 1, and having thrust -it through under 3, pull it taut; take strand 5 and pass it -over 2 and under 1; pass strand 6 over the first strand next -to it and under the second. Shift the rope around and treat -the other side in the same way, and the result will be as -shown in Fig. 2 B. This single tucking of the ends is not -sufficient for strength, so repeat the operation once, then cut -off the ends of the strands.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>The Long Splice</span> (Fig. 3).—Unlay (untwist) the two ends -to be joined some two or three feet, and place the ends together -in the same manner as explained for the short splice. Now -take the strand 1 and unlay it as far back as A, and in the -groove left in the rope wind the strand 2; unlay the strand 3 -and in its place lay-up (wind) the strand 4. At this stage -the rope will represent the appearance of Fig. 3 B. The -middle strands, 5 and 6, will now be knotted with a simple -overhand knot Fig. 3 C, care being observed that the knot -is formed to follow the lay (form) of the rope. Next divide -these two strands equally as shown in Fig. 3 D, and tuck -them into the rope on the same principle as explained for -the short and eye splice. The remaining strands will be -treated in the same manner, after which stretch the rope -well and cut off the ends.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xvii_2' class='c014'>Knots</h4> - -<p class='c015'><span class='sc'>Reef Knot</span> (Fig. 4).—This commonly used knot is also -known as a flat knot and square knot, and is one of the -most valuable of the many employed. As its name implies, -it is used to tie the reef points of a sail, the stops (short -<span class='pageno' id='Page_283'>283</span>lengths of rope) used to secure the jib to the bowsprit when -the sail is lowered, etc. Should a person find it necessary -in order to affect an escape from a burning building to fashion -a line by tearing sheets into lengths and tying them together, -this knot should be employed, for it will not slip and the -bulge where the strips are tied will afford good hold for the -hands. In order to make the knot, simply tie an overhand -knot, then pass the ends so that they shall take the same lay -(form) as the crossed parts beneath. Should the ends be -passed (crossed) wrong, an Old Granny knot (Fig. 5) will be -the result, and this knot will capsize (pull out of shape) and -slip as soon as a strain is put upon it.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Bowline Knot</span> (Fig. 6).—Take the end (1) of the rope -in the right hand and the standing part (2) in the left hand; -lay the end over the standing part and turn the left wrist so -that the standing part forms a loop (4) enclosing the end; -now lead the end back of the standing part and above the -loop and bring the end down through the loop again as -shown. A bowline of this kind, sometimes called a single -bowline, is employed in a variety of ways. Seamen sit in -the bight (3) of this shape to be hoisted aloft under certain -circumstances, and two towing hawsers are often made fast -to each other by two bowlines, the bight of one being passed -through the bight of the other.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Bowline on a Bight</span> (Fig. 7).—Double the rope, and take -the double end (1) in the right hand, the standing part (2) of -the rope in left hand; lay the end over the standing part, -and by turning the left wrist form a loop (3), having the end -inside; now pull up enough of the end (1) to dip under the -bight (4), bringing the end towards the right and dipping it -<span class='pageno' id='Page_284'>284</span>under the bight, then passing it up to the left over the loop -and hauling taut. This knot is employed in the same way -as explained for the single bowline, and it may also be stated -that it affords much amusement as a puzzle, for if the standing -part (2) is held and the knot presented to be untied, only -those familiar with the way in which it is made will be apt -to discover the secret of dipping the end (1) back and undoing -the knot by handling it in a reverse manner to that -described for its manufacture.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Running Bowline</span> (Fig. 8).—The only difference between -this knot and the one described under the head of “Bowline” -is that the end (1) of the rope is taken around the -standing part (2), and then a single bowline (3) is tied on -its own part. As will be understood by reference to the -diagram, this forms a slipknot or lasso, and in fact it is -employed for the same purposes as the latter. When a -shark is hooked by sailors the great fish is hauled up until -his head is out of water, then a running bowline is made -around the hook-line and allowed to fall down over the fins, -when it is hauled taut and the strain taken off the hook and -line, so that the danger of the fish escaping may be greatly -lessened, for the line is apt to break from the thrashing of -the creature or the hook pull out.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Wall Knot</span> (Fig. 9).—Unlay the end of the rope and -whip (tie) it where shown, and form a bight of strand 1, and -hold it down at the side represented by 2; pass the end of -3 around 1, and the end of 4 around 3 and through the bight -of 1, then the knot will appear as shown in Fig. 10; now -haul the parts taut and the knot will be formed.</p> - -<div id='i_297' class='figcenter id045'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_285'>285</span> -<img src='images/i_297.jpg' alt='Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 11, Fig. 12, Fig. 13, Fig. 14, Fig. 15, Fig. 16, Fig. 17, Fig. 18, Fig. 19, Fig. 20, Fig. 21, Fig. 22, Fig. 23, Fig. 24' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>KNOTS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Crowned Wall Knot</span> (Fig. 11).—Over the top of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_286'>286</span>knot lay the strand 1, then lay strand 2 over 1, and strand -3 over 2, and pass it through the bight of 1; now haul taut -the parts and the knot will take the shape shown in Fig. 12.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Double Wall and Double Crown Knot</span> (Fig. 13).—This -is made by allowing the strands to follow their respective -parts round, first walling, then crowning, as shown in -the diagram. This formation is also used as a Stopper Knot -and a Man Rope Knot, although a proper Stopper Knot is -shown in Fig. 14. It is a very beautiful knot when nicely -made, and as a fancy knot is common on yachts and naval -vessels.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Matthew Walker Knot</span> (Fig. 15).—As its name implies, -this knot is named after the man who invented it. It is -exceedingly simple and easy to make, and is in common use -on board of all vessels. Unlay the strands for a short distance, -and pass the end 1 around the rope and through its -own bight; next the strand 2 underneath and through the -bight of 1, also its own bight; last the strand 3 underneath -and through the bights of 1 and 2. When hauled taut the -knot will appear as in Fig. 16.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Diamond Knot</span> (Fig. 17).—Unlay the strands as for a -Matthew Walker Knot, and form three bights and then -take strand 1 over 2 and through the bight of 3; take strand -2 over 3 and through the bight of 1; take strand 3 over 1 and -through the bight of 2, then haul the parts taut, and lay up -(arrange) the strands of the rope again, and the knot will -then appear as in Fig. 18. What is known as a Double -Diamond Knot (Fig. 19) may be made by leading the -strands through two single bights, having the ends come -out at the top of the knot, then leading the last strand -<span class='pageno' id='Page_287'>287</span>through two double bights; last lay the strands up as previously -explained, and the knot will show as in Fig. 19.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Turk’s Head Knot</span> (Fig. 20).—This is purely an ornamental -knot, and is used to beautify yoke lines for a rowing -boat, man ropes, ridge ropes, gangway ropes, etc. The -material used in the construction of this knot is regulated -according to the character of the article to be decorated, -ranging from twine to signal halyard stuff (line). To make -this knot, form a clove hitch, and bring the bight of 1 -(Fig. 21) under the bight of 2, then take the end up through -it, make another cross with the bights, and take the end -down. Fig. 22 represents a Turk’s Head of two lays, but -it may have any number of lays, it being necessary only to -follow the lead around according to the formation desired.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Rope Yarn Knot</span> (Fig. 23).—It is to be explained that -a rope yarn is simply one of the several parts which make a -strand of rope. When a strand is untwisted, its parts become -rope yarns. These yarns are used for a number of purposes, -such as for rough seizings, etc. When a considerable -length of rope yarn is required, it is necessary to knot it -smoothly, and this is effected in the following manner: Split -in halves the two ends of the rope yarns, and crotch and tie -the two opposite ends, then jam the tie and cut off the remaining -ends.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Lark’s Head Knot</span> (Fig. 24).—This knot is used on the -same principle as explained for the Slippery Hitch; when it -is desired to undo it quickly, simply pull out the wooden -toggle 1. The making of the knot will be fully understood -by consulting the diagram.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Ropes are temporarily fastened to one another, or to a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_288'>288</span>spar, hook, ring-bolt, etc., by bends and by hitches. These -are all more or less simple, and a little practice and patience -is all that is necessary for the young reader to become expert -in their manufacture. Let us first consider the bends in -general use.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xvii_3' class='c014'>Bends</h4> - -<p class='c015'><span class='sc'>Common Bend</span> (Fig. 25).—This is also known as a single -bend, and is used for making one rope fast to another in a -hurry. Make a bight with one rope, and hold it in the left -hand; pass the end of the other rope 1 through the bight -2, then back round the two parts 3, over the rope 4, under -the rope 5, and over the short end of the loop. If the -end 1 is taken around once more and through the bight -again, as shown in Fig. 26, the bend will stand a greater -strain and be less liable to jam. The bend shown in Fig. 26 -is known as a double bend.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Carrick Bend</span> (Fig. 27).—This, like the common bend, -is used for bending hawsers together, but is a trifle more -difficult to make. Make a bight with the end of one rope; -pass the end of the other rope through the bight and over -the standing part of the first rope where marked 1, then -under the end 2, and again through the bight and over the -standing part 3.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Fisherman’s Bend</span> (Fig. 28).—First pass the rope twice -round the spar or ring, which act is understood by sailors -as “taking two round turns,” next take a half hitch round -the standing part, then thrust the end under the two turns, -and last half hitch the end round the standing part A. -When hauled taut the bend will appear as shown in Fig. 29.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_289'>289</span><span class='sc'>Sheet Bend</span> (Fig. 30).—Pass the end 1 through the eye; -take two turns round, observing in each case that the end -passes under the standing part 2. The greater the strain, -the more the standing part binds the two turns, and insures -them from slipping.</p> - -<div id='i_301' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_301.jpg' alt='Fig. 25, Fig. 26, Fig. 27, Fig. 28, Fig. 29, Fig. 30, Fig. 31, Fig. 32, Fig. 33' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_xvii_4' class='c014'>Hitches</h4> - -<p class='c015'><span class='sc'>Two Half Hitches</span> (Fig. 31).—This is an exceedingly -simple way of fastening a rope, and it has the double advantage -of being proof against jamming. Take a turn -around the object to which it is desired to fasten; bring the -end 1 on top of the standing part 2, then pass it under and -bring it up through the bight; repeat this process, haul taut, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_290'>290</span>and the result will show as in Fig. 32. In case the hitch is -to be subjected to a great strain, lash the end of the rope to -the standing part where marked 3 in Fig. 32.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Clove Hitch</span> (Fig. 33).—This is another very useful -hitch, but is only employed when the strain upon it is -temporary. It is in general use for bending a heaving-line -(small rope) to a hawser so that a coil of the former may be -thrown from a vessel to the dock and, after it is caught, the -hawser pulled ashore.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Slippery Hitch</span> (Fig. 34).—This hitch is simply a turn -around a spar or other object or through an eye, the end -carried across the standing part, and a loop put through the -bight, the end 1 being allowed to hang out. When it is -desired to separate the hitch, pull out the loop by hauling -on the end 1.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Blackwall Hitch</span> (Fig. 35).—This is used in hoisting. -Simply take a turn around the back of the hook, crossing -the parts of the rope in front as shown. When a strain is -put on the standing part of the rope, the underneath part -is jammed and slipping prevented.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Timber Hitch</span> (Fig. 36).—A hitch employed in towing -spars and logs, as it will not slip. Pass the end 1 of the rope -around the spar and lead it up and around the standing part -2, then pass two or three turns with the end around its own -part as shown in the illustration.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Rolling Hitch</span> (Fig. 37).—A very good method of clapping -(fastening) a tail-block. Take a hitch with the tail 1; -take another hitch over the first; pass the end under the -standing part 2, and twist the remainder of the tail round -the rope, following the lay. A tail-block, being portable, is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_291'>291</span>convenient to make fast anywhere about decks or the rigging, -and a rope being rove through this block, a purchase, -called a “whip,” is created.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Magnus Hitch</span> (Fig. 38).—Some people confuse this -hitch with the rolling hitch just described, but a comparison -of the two will explain the difference between them. With -the end of the rope 1 pass two turns over the spar; carry -the end in front of the standing part 2; pass it again under -the spar and bring it up through the bight. The value of -this hitch is its insurance against slipping in the direction -represented by the arrow.</p> - -<div id='i_303' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_303.jpg' alt='Fig. 34, Fig. 35, Fig. 36, Fig. 37, Fig. 38, Fig. 39, Fig. 40, Fig. 41, Fig. 42, Fig. 43, Fig. 44' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Catspaw Hitch</span> (Fig. 39).—Like the Blackwall Hitch, -this one is used for making a rope fast to a hook for hoisting -<span class='pageno' id='Page_292'>292</span>purposes. Seize the bight of the rope in your two -hands, and by turning the wrists form the two loops, then -hang these loops on the hook as in Fig. 40.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Sheepshank Hitch</span> (Fig. 41).—A quick way of shortening -a rope without cutting it is to convert a portion of it into -a shape known as a sheepshank. Gather up the spare rope -and lay it in parallel lines as shown. These parallel lines -may be represented by any number, according to the quantity -of spare rope and the length of the sheepshank. In the -accompanying diagrams we show the smallest sheepshank -that can be made, consisting of three parallel lines. After -forming the rope as shown in Fig. 41, take a half hitch with -the standing part 1 round the bight 4, and repeat this at the -other extremity with the standing part 2 and the bight 3. -The result will be as shown in Fig. 42. If it is desired to -make this hitch doubly secure, put a seizing (fastening) 7 -on the loops 5 and standing parts 6 (Fig. 43).</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Marling Hitch</span> (Fig. 44).—Employed to make a running -binding which can be put on and removed quickly.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_293'>293</span> - <h2 id='part_iv' class='c005'>Part IV<br /> <br /><span class='xlarge'>IN THE WOODS</span></h2> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_295'>295</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xviii' class='c013'>Chapter XVIII<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>CAMPS AND CAMPING</span></h3> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>Camping</span> in the mountains, fields, and forests is one of -the most delightful features of life in the summer-time. -But a good deal of the fun depends upon doing things the -right way.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To experienced campers many of the following ideas and -descriptions may be familiar, but among them there may -be some suggestions that will be found of value.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The tent is the all-important thing, and to make one large -enough for two or three boys is not a difficult matter. What -the boy does not know on his first camping expedition, -necessity will teach him, and much satisfaction may be had -in constructing bunks and tables and the other varied paraphernalia -of camp life.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_1' class='c014'>A Tent of Medium Size</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Fig. 1 shows a serviceable and roomy tent and fly of -medium size, which measures eight feet wide, ten feet long, -and seven feet high to the peak or ridge. The side drops or -aprons are thirty inches high, and against them on both -sides of the tent cots may rest on the ground as shown in -the illustration.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_296'>296</span>The fly is ten feet wide and fifteen feet long, and is an -extra covering for the tent in case of a hard rain-storm; -while in clear weather and with another ridge-pole and upright, -it can be used to lengthen the tent by extending it -out beyond the front, where it is to be held fast with stakes -and stanchion-ropes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The plan shown in Fig. 2 gives the dimensions of canvas, -and when the final sewing is done the edges C C at both -ends of the tent are brought together and securely overcast -with stout waxed cord.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The only openings are at front and back, and they can be -closed by means of tabs and button-holes at one side, and -large bone buttons made fast to the other edge in a corresponding -position to the tabs.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Where the iron pins of the uprights project through the -canvas, make a circular patch at least six inches in diameter -with two or three thicknesses of the canvas, and sew it fast -both at the hole and around the outer edge. This will -strengthen the canvas at the most vital point, and prevent -it from tearing if a heavy wind should strain the -tent.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Twilled cotton sail-cloth is the proper material of which -to make the tent, but if this cannot be had, then a stout -quality of unbleached muslin will answer very well for clear -weather; but in wet weather it will not shed the water so -well as the twilled duck. The seams can be sewed on a -machine, but they will be much stronger if sewed by hand -with white cotton cord well waxed. All the edges of the -cloth should be bound with rope about the size and strength -of clothes-line, so that any attachments made to the edges -will be borne by the rope instead of all the strain coming on -the canvas.</p> - -<div id='i_309' class='figcenter id004'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_297'>297</span> -<img src='images/i_309.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A TENT OF MEDIUM SIZE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_298'>298</span>On the dotted lines D D in the plan, which indicates the -inner edges of the aprons, one-inch harness-rings are to be -sewed on the straps, through which to reave the guy and -stanchion ropes. There should be four straps to this tent, -making five strips of canvas two feet wide; and these -strengthening straps are three-quarters of an inch in width, -and made by lapping the canvas over and sewing it along -both edges as shown in the little diagram marked E below -the plan in Fig. 2.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If a closed end is preferred instead of the flaps at the -rear of the tent, a back, in one piece, as shown in Fig. 3, can -be made and sewed all around the edges, bringing the edges -A A against the edge B, and joining the vertical edges C C -to the ends of the side aprons on the main sheet.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For ventilation, a flap opening may be made at the top -of this end as you can see in Fig. 3; and with tabs and -buttons this can be closed when necessary, or tied back -with strings, either to the inside or outside of the tent, -where they should be caught to small harness-rings sewed -to the canvas.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The fly is bound with rope all around the outer edge, -from which ropes extend out from each end, so that in hot -weather, if the sun plays on the tent, it may be kept cool -by raising the outer ends of the fly and propping them up -with poles at the four corners, and perhaps one extra one -at the middle of each side. (See the illustration for the -canopy over the table and seats, Fig. 10).</p> - -<p class='c011'>The ridge-pole to hold up this tent is of pine or spruce, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_299'>299</span>ten feet long, one inch and a half thick, and four inches -wide. The uprights are two inches square, with the sharp -corners planed off, making them octagonal in shape, and -they should be from seven to nine feet in length. The -upper ends of the uprights are bound with cord or an iron -band to prevent them from splitting when the iron pin is -driven in place. They are to be bored to receive a half-inch -pin, so that eight inches of it will project above the -top of the upright as shown in Fig. 4. Five-eighth-inch -holes are bored in the ridge-pole one inch and a half from -each end, and through these the pins in the uprights will -pass.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The stanchion-ropes are caught around the heads of long -pegs or stakes, twenty-four inches long, two inches wide, -and one inch in thickness, with a notch cut three inches -from the top as shown in Fig. 5. Cleats four inches long, -two inches wide, and seven-eighths of an inch thick are -provided with two holes through which the stanchion-ropes -pass, and they are used to draw the ropes taut, as shown in -Fig. 5, where the strain on the long rope pulls the short end -down and chocks the rope.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The stakes are to be driven into the ground so that but -five or six inches of them project. The lower they are the -better purchase they get in the ground and the more securely -the tent is anchored.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The extra ridge-pole for the fly can be cut at one end so -that it will lap in a corresponding manner on the front end -of the tent ridge-pole as shown in Fig. 6. For long tents, -where it is necessary to have the sticks in short lengths, for -convenience in carrying them, the ridge-pole can be in two -<span class='pageno' id='Page_300'>300</span>or three pieces, lapped together at the ends as shown in -the figure drawing, so that the pin in the upright will complete -the union.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When erecting the tent, dig two holes for the uprights -to rest in, and embed them so that seven feet of pole will be -above the ground, on which the ridge-pole will rest, and in -turn the canvas covering. The stakes are driven three feet -out on either side of the aprons so that the stanchion-ropes -will line with the pitch of the tent.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_2' class='c014'>A Large Camping-tent</h4> - -<p class='c015'>For a company of boys numbering from four to eight a -large camping-tent is shown in Fig. 7.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If it is made twenty feet long, ten feet wide, and eight -feet high to the ridge-pole, it will accommodate six cots and -two hammocks swung from the ridge-pole.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A plan by which to cut the cloth and make the tent is -shown in Fig. 8, and in Fig. 9 the plan for the back is given. -If an open back be preferred, the flaps shown at the bottom -of Fig. 8 may be duplicated at the rear of the tent.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This tent, when erected, is twenty feet long and eight -feet high from the ground to the ridge-pole, with the aprons -at the sides three feet high instead of thirty inches as in the -smaller tent. Three uprights two inches and a half square -support the ridge-pole, which for convenience of transportation -may be in two pieces and lapped at the middle as shown -in Fig. 6.</p> - -<div id='i_313' class='figcenter id046'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_301'>301</span> -<img src='images/i_313.jpg' alt='Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 11' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>TENTS AND CANOPIES</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>This tent is made in the same manner as described for the -smaller one, and a fly twenty-two feet long and eighteen feet -<span class='pageno' id='Page_302'>302</span>wide is supported over the tent where, in clear weather, it -can be propped up at the outer edges as shown at the left -side of the illustration. The fly is drawn back at the right -side to show how the guy and stanchion ropes are attached -to the stakes, so as to prevent the wind from blowing the -tent backward and forward as well as from side to side.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A flag-pole four feet high may be erected on the middle -upright by leaving the pin at the top longer, so that it will -extend up and into a hole bored in the lower end of the flag-pole. -The lower end of the pole must be bound with cord -or wire to prevent splitting. A small pulley at the top, and -a set of halyards, will make it possible to raise a club flag -or pennant.</p> - -<p class='c011'>All around the lower edge of the tent one-inch galvanized -rings should be sewed fast about twelve inches apart. -Through these the apron and ends may be tied fast to short -stakes or wooden pins driven in the ground. This will be -quite necessary in the event of a storm or strong wind, as -otherwise the lower part of the tent will blow up and flap -around in a disagreeable manner.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When erecting a tent of this size, care should be taken to -anchor it securely and brace it well with the stanchion and -guy ropes, for its size offers considerable resistance to a -strong wind. A little care and forethought will sometimes -avert a catastrophe with a tent, and when erecting one do -not trust anything to luck, but snug your tent and keep -ropes taut.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If it is possible to get some boards and a few joist, it -would be well to make a flooring, if you are to stay in one -place for any length of time.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_303'>303</span>Always select a level, dry place for the tent, and if possible -erect it on ground that is slightly higher than that -around it so as to drain the surface-water away.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_3' class='c014'>Flies and Canopies</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Every camping-tent should have a fly—that is, an extra -canvas roof—for no matter how good the canvas of which -it is made, it will become thoroughly soaked in a heavy -rain; but if protected by a fly the latter will lead the water -off and receive the greater part of the wetting. Such a -fly is shown clearly in the illustration of the large camping-tent. -Fig. 7.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The fly should always be a trifle wider than the tent is -long, and in length it should be long enough to cover the -roof of the tent and extend a foot or eighteen inches beyond -the sides, where it rests on the stanchion-ropes and is -lashed fast to pegs in the ground. The overhang, or extension, -leads the water out beyond the apron of the tent -and prevents the ground from becoming wet close to the -tent.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Another use for this overhang is to prevent the rain driving -against the aprons of the tent and wetting them close to -the cots. In fair weather, when it is possible to dine outside -the tent, the fly can be used as a canopy, if drawn over -a ridge-pole and held up at the ends by means of poles and -stanchion-ropes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A canopy of this kind is shown in Fig. 10, where it is -erected over a table and seats. It is always well, indeed, to -have two flies to a tent, so that one can be used for a canopy -<span class='pageno' id='Page_304'>304</span>or an auxiliary tent, under which a fire can be built and -meals cooked and eaten when it is raining.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For a small camp a fly or canopy, twelve feet wide and -eighteen feet long, will prove very useful in many ways; but -for a larger camp it should measure fifteen by twenty-five -feet. Under one of this size a party of ten or twelve people -can be comfortably seated, with plenty of room all around.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Flies or canopies should be bound with rope all around -the edges, and at distances from twelve to eighteen inches -apart three-quarter-inch galvanized rings should be made -fast. Through these stanchion-ropes may be reared wherever -it is necessary to attach the sheet to branches or poles set in -the ground.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_4' class='c014'>A House-tent</h4> - -<p class='c015'>One of the latest features in the modern camp is the -house-tent, in which the lower part is floored and boarded -half-way up, while the balance of the sides and the roof are -of canvas. This style of camp-tent has become very popular -in California and through the Southwest, where at least -six months of each year are spent out-of-doors. For the -boys who are about to build a permanent camp for several -years’ use, a house-tent such as shown in Figs. 11 and 12 -will prove very satisfactory, and more desirable than the -plain pitched tent.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Fig. 11 shows the house-tent closed in stormy weather -or at night, while in Fig. 12 the house is open for fair-weather -living. One wooden side is let down to form a -piazza, and the canvas side above it is propped out with -poles so as to act as a canopy or sunshade.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_305'>305</span>The frame is twelve feet long, eight feet wide, and nine -feet high from the roof to the peak. The wood sides are -three feet and six inches above the floor, and out beyond -the sides of the house the joist may extend to support one -or both of the wooden sides, which can be let down by means -of hinges along the bottom. When the sides are lowered -they act as piazzas and nearly double the floor space of the -house-tent; while the canvas sides, when propped out with -long, slim poles, add equally to the roof area in the way of -sunshades.</p> - -<div id='i_317' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_317.jpg' alt='Fig. 12, Fig. 13' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 13 a clear idea is given for the framing, which is -of spruce planed on the four sides. The uprights and -rafters are of two-by-three-inch stock, while for the under -timbers two-by-four or preferably two-by-six rough stock -can be used. The joist or flooring beams rest on the ends -of posts embedded two feet in the ground, to which they are -spiked with long, steel-wire nails. The flooring, of four-inch -matched boards, is laid on the space within the four corner -uprights, and the same or wider boards may be employed -for the sheathing.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_306'>306</span>If both sides are to let down, a window can be set only -at the back of this house-tent; but if only one side lets -down the window may be arranged at the enclosed side between -uprights the same as the rear window is placed.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The triangular end-pieces of canvas are attached to the -frame with copper or tinned tacks, so that they will not -rust, and the roof and both sides are of one piece made by -sewing together lengths of canvas or twilled sheeting. At -the front and back it is drawn over the edges of the end -rails, forming the roof, and tacked to hold it in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the front, on either side of the doorway, the canvas -may be arranged to roll up in clear weather. The rolls are -held to the upper frame-bar with cord or straps as shown -in Fig. 12.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The front door is thirty inches wide and is made from -boards and battens, and provided with a knob lock by -means of which it can be opened from either side.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The side that lets down to form the piazza is battened on -the outside, as may be seen in Fig. 11 where the house is -closed. When the side is down the battens drop in between -the extended floor joist or beams.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Folding-cots can be used in this house, or bunks may be -built in against the side and end—two at the side and one -at the end under the window. When the drop-side is up -and fastened for the night, another cot can be placed at -that side, while from corner to corner a hammock may be -swung.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When camp is broken up in the fall the canvas is to be -removed from the framework and kept for next season, -but the frame may be left standing. It would be better to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_307'>307</span>remove the door and sashes and slide them under the floor, -for they would offer too much resistance to the wind if left -standing in place, and might break or cause the framework -of the house to rack and become rickety during the winter -storms and high winds.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A coat or two of paint on the wood-work will improve its -appearance greatly and preserve the wood, if the house is to -be used for a number of seasons.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_5' class='c014'>The New Tent</h4> - -<p class='c015'>One great drawback to the pitched or army tent is that -in wet weather, when one has to stay in-doors, it is not -a comfortable abode unless you sit down or keep close to the -ground, for there is little or no head room.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In the illustration of the new tent with French roof (Fig. -14) you can readily see the great advantage of this new -method of construction, for it affords a great deal of head -room.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two uprights, three ridge-poles, and four angle-bars will -be required for the frame, and some long, slim poles with -crotched ends can be cut to prop the guy-ropes out from -the tent as shown in the illustration. For a party of three -or four boys this tent should measure seven feet and six -inches high, six feet and six inches broad at the top, eight -feet at the bottom, and ten or twelve feet deep. The sides -and top are in one piece, twenty-one feet long and ten or -twelve feet wide. The rear end is made in one piece and -sewed fast to the edges of the sides and top.</p> - -<p class='c011'>At the front two flaps are sewed to the top and sides. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_308'>308</span>They each measure seven feet and six inches long at the -inner edge, four feet across the bottom, three feet and five -inches at the top, and seven feet long at the outer edge. -They are cut as shown in Fig. 15 A, and when the tent is -set up the canvas will appear as shown in Fig. 15 B.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The frame is composed of two uprights two inches square -and nine feet long, eighteen inches of which is set into the -ground. There are three ridge-poles two inches in diameter -and ten feet long; and four brace-bars two inches -square, four feet and three inches long, bevelled at the lower -ends to fit against the upright post as shown at Fig. 16 A. -An iron pin (Fig. 16 D) is driven in the top of each upright -and at the outer ends of the brace-bars over which the ridge-poles -fit, they having been provided with holes for the purpose. -Angle-irons are screwed fast to the bevelled ends of -the brace-bars, and a collar of iron is made and screwed to -the uprights so that the tongue end of the angle-irons will -fit in them as shown at Fig. 16 B. Stout screw-eyes and -wire hold the braces in position at the top, as shown at Fig. -16 C, and so prevent the outer ridge-poles from straining the -canvas.</p> - -<div id='i_321' class='figcenter id031'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_309'>309</span> -<img src='images/i_321.jpg' alt='Fig. 14, Fig. 15, Fig. 16, Fig. 17' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>THE NEW TENT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>One of the best anchorages for the guy-ropes of a tent is -made with the lock-stake and deadeye cleat shown at Fig. -17 A. A stake with a notch to hold the rope is driven into -the ground, and another notched stake is driven in close to -the head, so that when in far enough the notch in the latter -will hold the head of the former as shown at Fig. 17 B. -The deadeye cleat is cut from hard-wood seven-eighths of -an inch thick, and is two inches wide, six inches long, and -provided with two holes three inches apart. At one end a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_310'>310</span>jaw is cut, so that a rope may be caught in it as shown in -Fig. 17 A. Steel wire nails are passed through the holes -indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 17 C, and riveted at the -point ends to strengthen the deadeyes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The manner in which it is used is shown at Fig. 17 A, and -if the holes are made the same size as the diameter of the -rope, the harder you pull on the tent end of the rope, the -more securely the deadeye cleat holds, and the loose end -of the rope caught first in the jaw can be given a turn or -two around the cleat to make it fast.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The double-peg anchorage is better than a single one, -and with this new rope-fastener it will be an easy matter -to stay a tent to withstand any wind-storm.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_6' class='c014'>Canvas Cots and Hammocks</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Cots are very necessary parts of the camping outfit, and -may be made either of canvas and poles or of boughs and -leaves. The canvas cot is, of course, much more comfortable -than the one of boughs, but sometimes it is not possible to -transport them, and then the bough bed must be resorted to.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A simple canvas cot is easily made from two pine or spruce -sticks seven feet long, two inches in diameter, and free from -knots or sappy places. A piece of light canvas or twilled -cotton duck fifty-four inches wide and seventy-two inches -long is sewed together so as to form a cylindrical case thirty-six -inches wide and seventy-two inches long. Lay it flat -and crease it along the edges, then run two or three lines of -stitching along both sides four inches in from the edges. This -forms the sleeve through which the poles are to be passed.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_311'>311</span>Crotched sticks are to be embedded in the ground to support -the ends of the poles as shown in Fig. 18. These are -to extend a foot or eighteen inches above the ground, and -should be three inches in diameter and quite strong, so as -to avoid breakage and a possible fall.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If a folding-cot with portable ends is desired, it can be -made to appear as shown in Fig. 19 by constructing two -folding ends, a middle pole, and four iron brace-hooks.</p> - -<div id='i_323' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_323.jpg' alt='Fig. 18, Fig. 19, Fig. 20, Fig. 21, Fig. 22' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>To make the cot twenty-six inches wide, procure the canvas -<span class='pageno' id='Page_312'>312</span>and poles as directed for the first cot. Bind the ends -of the poles with wire or have a blacksmith band them with -iron ferrules, then bore the ends and drive threaded pins in, -having nuts at the ends as shown at Fig. 20 A. From -maple or oak two inches wide and an inch thick cut four -legs thirty-two inches long, and bore holes at one end and -midway between ends, as shown in Fig. 20 B, to receive the -bolt ends in the poles. Bevel off the lower ends of the sticks -and place them in opposite directions, so that when opened, -in the form of an X, the ends will lie flat on the ground as -shown in Fig. 19. From pine or spruce cut a stick two inches -square, and provide the ends with bolts and nuts as shown -in Fig. 20 C. This is for the under brace, and extends from -end to end where the bolt passes through both legs, and is -attached with a nut and washer.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From iron an inch wide and less than a quarter of an inch -in thickness have a blacksmith cut four hook-braces eighteen -inches long with a hole at one end and a notch at the -other. With round-headed screws attach two of the braces -near each end of the pole, as shown in Fig. 20 C, so that -when the cot is set up the notches will hook over screws -driven in the upper edge of each leg near the bottom as -shown in Fig. 19. These will steady the cot, and prevent -it from rocking from end to end as it would do if not -braced.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A hammock that can be swung between the uprights of a -tent is made of canvas thirty inches wide and seventy-two -inches long. It is lapped over at the ends and sewed with -several lines of stitching, so as to receive a two-inch bar to -which the three ropes are made fast as shown in Fig. 21. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_313'>313</span>The end ropes should be twenty-four inches long and the -middle one eighteen. From the bars at each end they are -brought together and bound to rings which slip over hooks -made fast to the tent uprights, or they can be lashed fast -to the uprights. Any number of these hammocks may be -made and easily carried, as they roll up snugly and occupy -very little room in a bedding-kit. They are much easier to -handle than a woven or braided hammock, the strands of -which are forever catching in everything and anything with -which they come into contact.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When making a cot of boughs the most satisfactory and -comfortable affair is the basket-woven or lattice mattress of -small, pliable saplings trimmed and interwoven as shown -in Fig. 22. The long pieces should be alternated so that the -large end of one stick will be next the small end of another, -and thus distribute the strain evenly over the lattice. This -arrangement applies also to the shorter or cross-pieces, and -when finished the mattress is laid on a pair of poles supported -with crotched sticks, as shown in Fig. 18, but without the -canvas.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Over this lattice short twigs with clusters of leaves are -spread, to make a soft mattress, and on these in turn a -blanket or two can be spread and tied down at the corners, -so that the leaves may not become dislodged.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_7' class='c014'>Tables and Benches</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Every boy should know how to make a table from some -fence boards, a rail or two, and stakes for the legs. The -table shown in Fig. 23 is made from three boards about -<span class='pageno' id='Page_314'>314</span>eight inches wide and five feet long battened together at -the ends and across the under side of the middle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A rail is nailed across two tree-trunks thirty-two inches -from the ground, to which one end of the boards are attached. -Two stakes three inches thick are driven in the -ground four feet from the trees, and across the upper ends -of them a rail is nailed fast to support the other ends of the -boards.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A larger table is shown in Fig. 24, and like the smaller one -it is built against two trees. The boards, three or four in -number, should be from six to eight feet long. They are -nailed fast to four or five inch rails attached to the tree-trunks -and to stout posts embedded in the ground. The -middle of the table is supported by a batten, or rail, which -is nailed fast to the top of a post embedded under the centre -of the table.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Chairs made for camp life from rustic wood and pieces of -board need not be so well constructed that any great amount -of time should be expended on them, but they should be -strong and serviceable.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A simple chair that any boy can make from branches or -small tree-trunks, two or three inches in diameter, is shown -in Fig. 25. The seat is eighteen inches high, sixteen inches -square, and the back posts are thirty-six inches high. Two -pieces of wood, eighteen inches long, are cut as shown at -Fig. 26 A, and two more, thirty-six inches long, are cut as -shown at B. The laps are cut out with saw and chisel so as -to receive the seat-rails, the braces, and the back board, -which are made fast with steel-wire nails as shown at C. -The seat is made of ordinary boards nailed to the top edges -<span class='pageno' id='Page_315'>315</span>of the rails all around, and if the edge is smoothed off there -will be less liability to tear one’s garments.</p> - -<div id='i_327' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_327.jpg' alt='Fig. 23, Fig. 24, Fig. 25, Fig. 26, Fig. 27' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>In the illustration of a canopy (Fig. 10, page 301), a -table and benches are shown. The table is thirty inches -wide and five feet long, and it can be built either detached -or fast to the ground. If the corner-posts are embedded a -foot or eighteen inches in the ground it will make the table -firmer and less liable to rack than if built loose or detached.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Two benches running the length of the tables are made -in a similar manner to the chairs, but if the corner-posts or -legs are to be embedded in the ground the side braces will -not be necessary. The seat should be eighteen inches high, -sixteen inches wide, and from five to eight feet long, as occasion -requires, and with a middle brace it will appear as -shown in Fig. 27.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_8' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_316'>316</span>Camping Equipment</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In fitting out for a camping expedition it is always best -to make a memorandum of the things you will need some time -before you start, for so surely as you do not do this there -will be some important things forgotten. The stuff that -will fill an ordinary clothes-basket should be enough for a -company of four boys, but for a greater number the supply -must be increased accordingly.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In this list there must be included a kettle, two pans, tin -or enamelled dishes, a frying-pan or two, a broiler, a wooden -pail for water, and smaller tin pails; a lantern, candles, -matches in tin boxes, hatchet or axe, blankets, knives and -forks, spoons, and a few other culinary accessories. The -dry groceries will have to be taken from home, unless they -can be purchased near the camp or from some farm-house. -From the latter it is generally possible to obtain butter, -milk, eggs, a chicken or two, and other food that you may -stand in need of if hunting or fishing fail you.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 28, showing a corner of the tent, a portable -table is supporting some of the things it would be well -to have in camp, and while a boy may think that he -knows what is wanted, it would be well for him to take -his mother’s or older sister’s advice on the subject.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_9' class='c014'>Lockers and Mess-kits</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Lock-boxes with handles, in which to store dry groceries -and foods, and mess-kits for the kitchen and dining ware, -are among the most important parts of the camping outfit. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_317'>317</span>They may be made from ordinary well-constructed boxes, -and provided with hinged lids, a hasp and padlock, and -handles at either end by means of which they may be carried -easily.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The lock-box shown in Fig. 29 A is eighteen inches wide, -twenty-four inches long, and twelve inches deep, and with -two thin boards four compartments are made as shown in -Fig. 29 A. A lid is made of three boards and two battens, -and securely attached to the box with strap hinges.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A hasp and padlock as well as two handles can be purchased -at a hardware store and screwed fast to the chest.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A mess-kit may be made of a box with both lid and bottom -nailed on securely. It is then sawed around three inches -from one side, dividing it so that quite a little of the wood -is fast to both sides. With hinges these are fastened together -like a Gladstone bag, and on the inside, pockets and -straps can be arranged to accommodate cooking-utensils -and food-stuffs. Fig. 29 B shows this kit, and with a trunk-strap -and a rope it can be easily carried from place to place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For knives, forks, spoons, kettle-lids, and other small paraphernalia -of the camping outfit a nest of pockets may be -made from denim or unbleached muslin, like the one shown -hanging on the wall in Fig. 28. The pockets are commodious -and will accommodate many little things, and the nest -can be folded over and tied at the corners with stout cord. -A nest of this description should be three feet long, thirty -inches high, and with three lines of pockets as shown in the -illustration. The sewing should be done by hand with -heavy linen or carpet thread, so that the stitching will not -break.</p> - -<div id='i_330' class='figcenter id047'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_318'>318</span> -<img src='images/i_330.jpg' alt='Fig. 28, Fig. 29, Fig. 30, Fig. 31' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>A carry-all (Fig. 30) is made of denim or light sail-cloth, -and will be found the most convenient sort of a catch-all, -for it may be folded over and rolled up, then bound with a -shawl-strap to carry it easily.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_319'>319</span>A piece of denim a yard wide and forty-two inches long -is folded at the dotted lines A A as shown in the plan (Fig. -31). The edges will then reach the lines B B. Sew the flaps -at the two ends and divide the long pockets into smaller -ones as shown in Fig. 30. Knives, forks, spoons, and a -variety of small things can be kept in this nest of pockets, -and when in camp it may be hung from one end by rings, so -that the pockets occupy a horizontal position and the contents -can be easily gotten at.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_10' class='c014'>A Stone Stove and Camp-fires</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The old-time tripod and kettle over an open fire of brush -and logs is an unhandy means of cooking, for a sudden gust -of wind will blow the smoke and sparks in all directions and -dissipate the heat as well.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The up-to-date campers will make a stone stove similar -to the one shown in Fig. 32. This holds the fire within the -stone enclosure, and retains the greater part of the heat, -which in the open fire is blowing to the four winds and giving -very little benefit to the pot.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Flat stones should be used in the construction of this -stove, and if it is possible to get some clay from the bed of a -brook it can be used in place of cement for sealing the joints. -This of course will make the fire burn better, as the only -draught will then enter at the bottom, or doorway, through -which the sticks are fed to the fire.</p> - -<p class='c011'>These doorways or draught-holes should be made on -two or three sides of the stove, and when one is in use -the others may be closed or left open, according to the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_320'>320</span>strength of the wind and the direction from which it is -blowing.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The pot should be hung on the ridge-pole so that it -touches the top of the stove and holds in the heat. Fish -may be fried in a pan or broiled much better than over an -open fire, and water can be boiled quicker and coffee made -easier.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This stove can be made either round or square, and if -bricks are available for use they will be better than stones -as the joints are closer and they are not so ungainly to -handle. Over the stove a ridge-pole or bar should be supported -on a yoked stick at one end and a twin-stick tripod -at the other. The yoked or crotched stick is embedded in -the ground, or it can be the sawed-off stump of a small tree. -The lower ends of the twin sticks should be let into the -ground for a foot or eighteen inches, so that the ridge-bar -can be removed without its supports falling over.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Always build a fire or a stove in the shade, for it will not -burn so well if the sun plays on it. In rainy weather a -canopy over this stone stove will keep it dry and cause it to -burn better than if exposed to the elements.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Here are some other ideas for camp-fires proper. Let -us suppose that the party is provided with the necessary -utensils for camp-cooking—a camp-kettle, coffee-pot, -frying-pan, saucepan, and some sort of baking-pan. These -should prove sufficient, unless the party intends having quite -elaborate menus. If it is intended to remain at the camp -only while cooking one or two meals, make your fire in this -manner: Cut two green poles about five or six inches thick -and about two feet long. In these cut notches about a foot -<span class='pageno' id='Page_321'>321</span>apart. Level the ground where you intend to build your -fire, and lay these poles down with the notches up and about -three feet apart. Now cut two or three poles about four -feet long and lay them in these notches. Gather a good -supply of dry wood, grass, bark, or chips, and make your -fire on the ground between the poles. The air will circulate -under and through the fire, and the poles will prove just -right to set your cooking-utensils on. Do not pile on wood -by the armful. Add a little at a time, and you will find you -can cook rapidly and well, and not burn your face and hands -while attending to your cooking.</p> - -<div id='i_333' class='figcenter id048'> -<img src='images/i_333.jpg' alt='Fig. 32, Fig. 33, Fig. 34, Fig. 35' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_322'>322</span>If it is intended to remain several meals at the camp it -will pay to put up a crane. This is built in this manner: -Cut two green posts two or more inches thick and three feet -long, having forks at one end. Drive these into the ground -at each end of your fire. Cut another green pole the same -diameter and long enough to reach between the forks. -Flatten the ends so that they will set snug in the forks.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The poles should be driven into the ground so that when -the bail of the kettle is slipped on the crane the bottom of -the kettle will just clear the fire.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If the camp is to be of a permanent nature, or it is expected -to remain there for some days or weeks, it will be well to -arrange for a better kitchen that will not be affected by the -winds, the <i><span lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bête noire</span></i> of camp-cooking. Dig a trench (cutting -the sides square) as long as the distance between your uprights, -and about eighteen inches wide and a foot deep. -Make your fire in this hole, on the ground, and you will find -that the wind will not worry you one-half as much as before -(Fig. 33). If you wish to take the trouble, and the material -is handy, the plan in Fig. 35 is a most excellent one to follow. -Wall up the sides of the trench with brick, add a little -chimney at one end, and get several iron “S” hooks from -which to suspend your kettles. This will save the lifting of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_323'>323</span>the crane every time you wish to handle the kettles suspended -over the fire. By this method you will economize on fuel -and save heat.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The plan used in the army for camp-cooking and described -below is the best for all-around work. To make this -kitchen takes more time and a little more labor, but in the -end the laborers will be well paid for their work. It is particularly -adapted for clayey soil. Dig a hole about three -feet square and two feet in depth, generally in the slope of a -hill. On one side run a shaft laterally, about one foot square -and six feet in length, and one foot from the surface of the -ground. At the extreme end sink a shaft vertically and -form a chimney, and at equidistances pierce holes of sufficient -diameter to prevent the kettles from slipping through. -By this mode the kettles can be placed over the fire to boil, -or on the side to simmer, with less difficulty than by any -other means. Fig. 36 A and B.</p> - -<p class='c011'>I want to tell the young camper how to bake his own -bread in camp, so if he camps far from a store or house -where he can buy his bread he will not have to eat crackers, -or those indigestion-producers, flapjacks, that the youthful -camper knows how to make, or thinks he does. I have -eaten many a one in my young days before putting on the -“army blue,” but their weight in gold would not induce me -to eat some that I swallowed as a boy and thought “fine.” -We will assume that before going into camp your dear -mother has taught you how to mix a batch of dough or a -pan of biscuit. We will now make an oven in which to bake -the bread or biscuit. A bank from four to six feet is the best -for the purpose. Dig down the bank to a vertical face, and at -<span class='pageno' id='Page_324'>324</span>the base excavate a hole, say three to four feet horizontally, -care being taken to keep the entrance as small as possible. -Hollow out the sides of the excavation and arch the roof, -till the floor of the oven is about two feet wide and the arch -about sixteen inches at the centre. Fig. 37 A and B.</p> - -<div id='i_336' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_336.jpg' alt='Fig. 36, Fig. 37' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Now carefully “tap” the back end for the chimney, and -insert a piece of stove-pipe if handy. A hole from four to -six inches will give a good draught. Wet the inside of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_325'>325</span>oven, and smooth over the walls so that the mud presents a -hard finish, and leave to dry for a day. When you are ready -to bake, build a good fire in the oven, and when it is well -heated remove the fire, scrape out all ashes, and place the -pans of dough inside. Close up the entrance with a board, -and cover with mud so as to keep in all the heat. With -proper care this oven will last several weeks.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A bank may not be handy in which to build an oven of the -kind described above; if such proves the case, it is not a -difficult matter to construct a good oven on the level ground -by following the method below. If a flour-barrel is handy, -use it; if not, make use of willow twigs stuck in the ground -and bent over so as to form a mould. Over the barrel or -willow mould plaster a stiff mortar made of mud, commencing -at the base. Lay it on about six inches thick. Allow -it to dry for a day or two, and when nearly dry cut out a -door at one end and the flue at the other. A small mud -chimney will increase the draught if a piece of stove-pipe is -not at hand. If a barrel has been used as the mould it may -be burned out without danger to the oven. Carefully -remove all dirt, and keep up a fire for half a day before -attempting to bake. Fig. 34. (See page 321.)</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_11' class='c014'>Camp-cooking</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Even the finest of camps is a dreary place unless the commissary -department is well organized. “Uncle Harry,” who -is an old and experienced camper-out, gives some useful suggestions -to his nephews, and other boys will doubtless appreciate -his lectures on things culinary.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_326'>326</span>“Let us suppose,” begins Uncle Harry, “that you have -gotten the camp into ship-shape order, and after your hard -day’s work are ravenously hungry and very impatient for -supper, or rather dinner, for the last meal of the day in -camp is always the most important one. We will appoint -Aleck as cook, and while he is busy over the fire neither of -the others shall interfere with him or his duties, for no axiom -is more true than that ‘too many cooks spoil the broth.’</p> - -<p class='c011'>“Ben and Bob must see that the cook is well supplied -with water and has plenty of small-split firewood close at -hand. Then Bob will set the table, while Ben goes a-fishing -and catches half a dozen trout or other small fry from the -lake. In the mean time Aleck has pared and washed a dozen -potatoes. These are placed in a kettle nearly full of water, -and hung over the fire half an hour before supper-time. He -will keep them boiling furiously until he can run a sliver of -wood easily through the largest one. Then the water must -be drained from them, and, still in the kettle, they must be -set aside, but near enough to the fire to keep hot until -wanted.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“Ben’s fish all weigh less than a pound, and so are too -small to do anything with but fry. After they are cleaned, -Aleck rolls them in corn-meal and lays them carefully in the -frying-pan, which is already on the stove, and in which a -small quantity of cotton-seed oil is sizzling merrily. If you -should have no oil, pork fat will do nearly as well, only have -it boiling hot before placing the fish in it.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“Aleck has heard of half a dozen methods of making -coffee, and hesitates before deciding which to try. He has -been told to put his coffee in cold water and let it come to a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_327'>327</span>boil, and that the coffee must not see the water until it is -boiling; he has heard that coffee must never be boiled, and -that the only way to extract its strength is to boil it; and so -in thinking it all over he is much perplexed. Finally he remembers -a method which his old uncle who is in the army -has mentioned to him, and decides to try it.”</p> - -<p class='c011'>“Oh, Uncle Harry, you are not a bit old,” interrupts -Aleck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“In preparing coffee by his old uncle’s method,” continues -Captain Archer, only noticing the interruption with -a smile, “Aleck fills the coffee-pot with water, and sets it on -the broiler wires, which he has laid across from one log to -the other of the stove. While it is coming to a boil he measures -out his coffee at the rate of a heaping table-spoonful for -each cup to be made, puts it into his tin cup, pours in all -the hot water it will hold, and sets it in a warm place on the -stove. As soon as the water in the coffee-pot boils, he pours -off some, so as to leave the pot about three-quarters full, and -empties in his cupful of soaked coffee. Setting the pot back, -he allows its contents to again come to a boil, and then lifts -it from the fire. He pours out a tin cupful of the coffee, and -pours it slowly back into the pot, throwing away the residue -of grounds that remain in the cup. For about a minute, or -while the rest of the dinner is being served, the coffee-pot -stands in a warm place near the fire, and then its contents -are ready for drinking.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“If either of you had wanted tea, Aleck would have put in -the pot a teaspoonful of tea leaves for each cup to be made, -poured boiling water over it, let it stand in a warm place two -or three minutes, and it would have been ready for you.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_328'>328</span>“Here you have a plain, easily cooked dinner of fried fish, -boiled potatoes, and coffee, to which you can add from your -supplies bread and butter, or crackers, pickles, condensed -milk, salt, pepper, and sugar. I think you will find it -enough for a first experiment.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“For breakfast next morning you will have coffee, fried -potatoes and breakfast bacon, and griddle-cakes.”</p> - -<p class='c011'>“Oh, Uncle Harry, I can’t make griddle-cakes,” exclaimed -Aleck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“I think you can, if I tell you how, and you try hard. -At any rate, you had better try, for they enter largely into -the composition of camp meals. To make the simplest flour -griddle-cakes, put into a pan a quart of your prepared flour, -a teaspoonful of salt, a handful of corn-meal, a table-spoonful -of brown sugar, two eggs, if you have them, and mix -with cold water into a batter. Stir thoroughly until no -lumps are left, and then fry on a hot griddle. In frying use -as little grease as possible. More griddle-cakes are spoiled -by the use of too much grease in frying than in any other -way. A bit of pork rind or an oiled rag rubbed over the -griddle is sufficient. Take turns in frying the cakes, so that -two of you can be eating them as fast as they are done. -They are only fit to eat when hot from the griddle.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“The cold boiled potatoes left from dinner the night before -may be cut up and fried with half a dozen slices of breakfast -bacon, and when all is ready you will have a breakfast to -which I think three hungry boys will do ample justice.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“When you become tired of fish, catch frogs. They are -considered delicacies on first-class tables, and add a pleasant -variety to a woodman’s fare. Catch them with a light rod, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_329'>329</span>short line, and small hook baited with a bit of scarlet flannel, -or at night by use of a jack-light. Stupefied by its glare, -they will let you pick them up. Kill your frog by a tap on -the head, cut off his thighs and hind-legs, skin them, roll -them in Indian-meal, and fry brown in hot oil or pork fat.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“You will also probably have an opportunity of adding -squirrels to your bill of fare. When you have got your -squirrel, chop off his head, feet, and tail, cut the skin crosswise -of the back, and strip it off in two parts, fore and aft; -also cut the body crosswise into two parts. Throw them -into a kettle, and let the hind-quarters parboil until tender. -Then fry them, until of a rich brown, in oil or pork fat, hissing -hot. Use the fore-quarters for a stew.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“To make a stew use almost any kind of flesh or fowl. -The chief thing to be remembered in making a stew is to -stew it enough. An old camp jingle runs thus:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“‘A stew that’s too little stewed</div> - <div class='line in1'>Is understood to be no good.’</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>“Let your meat boil for more than an hour, or until it -begins to fall from the bones. Add potatoes, pared and -quartered, an onion sliced, salt, pepper, and a thickening -made of flour and melted butter, to be stirred in gradually.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“In making a meat soup provide plenty of meat, and do -not be afraid to let it boil. It is hard to boil it too much, -and three hours is not too long. When nearly done, scrape -a potato into the soup for thickening, and season with salt -and pepper.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“To cook rice, let a cupful soak overnight. In the morning -pour off the water in which it has soaked, place it in a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_330'>330</span>kettle of cold water, and boil it slowly, without stirring, -until the kernels are soft. Remember to salt it. Rice is -good with condensed milk, sugar, butter, or syrup. It is -good to add to your soups and stews, and it is particularly -good when added to the batter from which you make your -griddle-cakes.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“To make mush stir corn-meal into boiling water; season -with salt. Eat hot with syrup. Save what is left over, and -fry it next morning. The same rule applies to hominy.</p> - -<p class='c011'>“These are the rudiments of camp-cookery. Not an extended -bill of fare, but I think you will find it appetizing -and nourishing.”</p> - -<p class='c011'>And the boys agreed with him.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xviii_12' class='c014'>The Care of a Gun</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Aside from the pride and satisfaction which every sportsman -should take in keeping his favorite weapon bright and -free from spots, inside and out, it pays to keep a gun clean. -The residue left in the barrel after firing contains acids, -which will soon eat “pits” or spots in the metal, and when -once started, it is almost impossible to prevent them increasing -in size and number. When badly pitted, the recoil -is increased by the roughness in the barrel. A gun can be -cleaned by the following directions: The cleaning-rod -should have at least three tools—a wool swab, a wire -scratch-brush, and a wiper to run rags through. Have -plenty of water at hand—warm if you have it, if not cold -will do nicely. Put a swab on the rod, and some water in -a tin basin or wooden pail. By placing one end of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_331'>331</span>barrel in the water, you can pump it up and down the barrel -with the swab. When it is discolored take fresh water, -squeeze out the swab in it, and repeat the operation, until -the water comes from the barrel as clean as it went in. If -the gun has stood overnight, or longer, since using, it is best -to put on the scratch-brush after the first swabbing, and a -few passes with this will remove any hardened powder or -leading. The next step is to fill the wiper with woollen or -cotton rags, and dry the barrel thoroughly. When one set -becomes wet take another, until they come from the barrel -perfectly dry. Then stand the barrel on end on a heated -stove, changing it from end to end, taking care that it does -not become overheated. By the time it is well warmed up, -the hot air from the stove will have dried out every particle -of moisture left in the barrel. If no stove is at hand, the -last set of drying rags used must be plied vigorously up and -down the barrel until it becomes quite warm from the friction. -Drying is the most important part of cleaning, and if -the least particle of moisture is left in the barrel it will be a -rust spot the next time the gun is taken from its case. The -gun may now be oiled, inside and out, with sewing-machine -oil or gun-grease, which can be had in any gun store. The -woollen rags used for greasing soak up a great deal of oil, and -should be dropped into the gun-cover for future use.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In regard to the safe handling of guns, almost all rules -centre in that of always carrying the gun in such a way that -if it should be accidentally discharged it would do no harm. -If this rule is borne in mind, and strictly obeyed in the beginning, -it becomes a habit and is followed intuitively. The -gun may be carried safely on either shoulder, or in the hollow -<span class='pageno' id='Page_332'>332</span>of either arm, with a sharp upward slant. When momentarily -expecting a bird to rise, and obliged to have the gun -cocked, it should be carried across the breast with a sharp -upward slope to the left. This is the only way the gun -should be carried cocked. A breech-loader is so easily unloaded -that there is no excuse for getting into a wagon or -boat, or going around a house, without unloading. Never -hand a loaded gun to any one who asks to look at it. Whenever -you pick up any kind of a gun to examine it, always -open it to see if it is loaded, and the habit will grow so that -you will do this almost without knowing it. It seems needless -to say never pull a gun towards you by the muzzle -through a fence or out of a boat or wagon, yet the violation -of this rule is the cause of more accidents than anything else. -Never climb a fence with your gun cocked.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In learning the art of shooting on the wing—and this is -the only way in which a shot-gun should be used—the following -suggestions may be of some help, but no amount of -printed directions can teach you to shoot. Practice is the -best teacher. Nine out of ten young sportsmen shoot too -quickly. A game bird rises with a startling whir of the -wing (and sometimes when least expected), which gives the -idea that he is making much greater speed than he really -is. Beginners are apt to become excited, and throw up the -gun anywhere in that direction, and blaze away with no -definite aim. For this reason it is best to begin with blackbirds, -rice-birds, and rails.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In almost every shot it is necessary to hold ahead of the -bird, to allow for the time it takes to explode the cartridge -and throw the shot to the bird. Even in this short space -<span class='pageno' id='Page_333'>333</span>of time a cross-flying bird would be safely out of the shot -circle if you aimed right at him. If a bird flies straight -away from you, neither rising nor dropping, you should aim -right at it. If flying straight across, you should hold well -ahead of it. If quartering, still hold ahead, but less.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Many will ask how far to hold ahead, and this is a difficult -question to answer accurately, as we have no means of -knowing just how far ahead we do hold. One might say -six feet and another six inches. What might appear to be -an inch at the muzzle of the gun might really be a foot in -front of a bird forty yards away. It must be learned by -experience, and when accustomed to it the aim will be taken -almost instantly, governed by the direction of flight, the -speed of the bird, and the distance from the shooter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is best to ask permission of the owner to shoot over his -land. You will seldom be refused, and will frequently be -given permission to shoot over land which is posted “No -Shooting.” The land-owners know that it is the lawless -hoodlums who do them damage.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Every true sportsman strictly obeys the game laws, and -it is to his advantage to do so, although in many States the -laws are practically a dead letter. Shooting out of season -has nearly killed the game in many localities, when it would -still be abundant if the game laws had been observed.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_334'>334</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xix' class='c016'>Chapter XIX<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>TRAPS AND TRAPPING</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_xix_1' class='c014'>Snares and Deadfalls</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_2_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>The</span> ways of trapping are as various as the ingenuity of -savage or civilized man can devise. I like best the -traps that one can make. They seem to give the animal a -fairer show; they develop our own constructive faculties; -and the nearer we can get to the savage way the more fun -it always is. Steel traps have a place that wooden traps -can never fill; but give me something that I can make with -my own hands, with the simplest tools, out of whatever -materials the spot affords where the animal lives.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Of all the animals in this country there is none that -affords less harmful sport than the rabbit—more properly -hare—of which there are several species. Its wonderful -powers of increase enable it to hold its own, as far too many -of our best and most valuable animals do not. Furthermore, -rabbits are very easily trapped.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Every one knows its little trail, as broad as one’s hand, -through the bushes or broom-hedge, or its footprints as it -hops over the clear snow. Here, where the path goes under -a fence-rail, it has stopped to gnaw. The rabbit follows this -path in season and out, though in the far North, where the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_335'>335</span>snows keep piling and piling up, its little road may change -with each successive snowfall. Trappers there put out a -large number of snares, setting them right in the middle of -these paths. In Fig. 1, No. 20 soft brass or copper wire is -used—a piece say twenty inches long being bent into an -oval or round noose some four inches through, the end being -twisted around a convenient limb or root, or stick thrust -into the snow over the path, and the space on each side -bushed in with evergreen twigs, so that the rabbit will be -sure to pass through the noose. Snares are easily taken up -and set somewhere else after each snowfall. The best way -is to rig the noose to a spring-pole (Fig. 2). The spring-pole -that I have seen the Indian trappers make is simply a pole -lashed to the side of a convenient sapling, the heavy end -being high in the air, while the short end is caught under a -stake with a crotch or little limb sticking out, driven into -the ground at the side of the path. A “twitch-up” is a -sapling bent down, but this generally needs to be held down -in another way. On each side of the path a stake is firmly -driven into the ground. About seven inches from the ground, -and on the sides which face, a deep notch is cut into each -stake, and a stick flattened at each end is placed across, like -the letter H. The sapling is bent down, a strong cord -fastened to the end, and tied around the middle of the cross-piece. -The noose dangles below, clearing the ground by -two inches (Fig. 3). If the pole is strong enough it lifts the -game into the air out of reach of predatory animals. All -stakes bearing strain of pulling must be firmly driven into -the ground, or in wet weather they will pull out.</p> - -<div id='i_348' class='figcenter id049'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_336'>336</span> -<img src='images/i_348.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Rabbits, as gardeners know, are fond of carrots and other -vegetables, as well as apples. There are many ways of rigging -a snare with bait. The trap is arranged so the rabbit -puts its head through a noose, and springs the trap as it -touches the bait. One of the best traps I know of this kind -<span class='pageno' id='Page_337'>337</span>is called, in northern Vermont, a “French twitch-up” (Fig. 4). -This trap can be made at home, and carried and set wherever -needed. It is made as follows: Take a board about twenty -inches long and ten inches wide. Measure off eight inches -from one end, and with a pair of dividers describe a circle -five inches in diameter. Around this circle bore holes -three-eighths of an inch in diameter an inch apart, through -the board, and drive in pegs five inches high. Five inches -from the other end bore a larger hole, and set up a square -peg (or a round one with flat side) seven inches high. Procure -a half-inch stick long enough to reach from the centre -of the circle of pegs to the upright and three inches beyond -it. Screw this stick fast to the upright at a point two inches -from the board—loosely, so it will work up and down, sharpening -the end inside the pen, and cutting a notch on the -upper side at the other end as shown in Fig. 4. Cut another -notch near the top of the upright post, and fit into -the two notches a half-inch stick with chisel-shaped ends. -This arrangement resembles very closely the figure 4. A -strong cord from the middle of this short stick leads to the -spring-pole at a point about a foot from the end.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A noose of fine, soft wire or plaited horse-hair is fastened -to the end of the spring-pole, and laid evenly around on the -tops of the circle of pegs, which must be of an equal height. -An apple or a carrot is speared upon the sharp end of the -bait-stick. The rabbit smells the bait, puts its head over -the fence and through the noose to take a nibble. When it -touches the bait-stick, up goes the noose, and it is caught. -But the snare on top of the little fence is likely to fall or be -rubbed off, so a deep, sharp notch must be made into the top -<span class='pageno' id='Page_338'>338</span>of every peg into which the noose fits. This is undoubtedly -a Yankee improvement on a very old device. Formerly -there was no pen and the noose was laid on the ground.</p> - -<p class='c011'>One of the very best traps for rabbits is a kind used in the -South (Fig. 5). How often on a frosty morning would one’s -heart thump as one came into view and looked to see if the -trigger was up and the door was down!</p> - -<p class='c011'>It is made of rough boards twenty to twenty-four inches -long, one being an inch shorter, and all at least six inches -wide, nailed into a long box. The rear being closed up with -a board, and the top being an inch shorter, there is room for -a door which slides up and down. Two thin strips are nailed -upright to the front of the side-pieces, to keep the door from -falling outward; small cleats inside complete a channel, in -which the door slides easily up and down. Then with an -auger or bit two holes are bored into the top five-eighths to -one inch in diameter, one hole being nine inches from the -front, the other nine inches to the rear of the first. Into the -one next the door a stake is set up about ten inches high, -with a crotch at the top. Then a stick eight inches long and -as thick as a lead-pencil is cut; five inches from one end a -cut is made half-way through, and a deep notch taken out -the short end. This is dropped, notch upward, into the other -hole. A stiff stick eighteen inches long is then cut, a string -tied to each end, and then balanced in the crotch. The door -is raised five inches, and one string tied to a nail in the top. -The other string is tied to the upper end of the trigger, the -notch of which is caught on the under side of the top board. -The trap thus set is placed at right angles to the path, not -directly in it. Foolish Bunny comes along. A good hole is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_339'>339</span>something a rabbit is ever on the lookout for. Here is a new -one; he will look into it and see what it is like. It is not -necessary to put even a carrot or an apple inside. He crowds -in, butts his head against the trigger at the end, up it goes, -down drops the door behind, and he is fast. The trigger -must be set under the front edge of the hole, otherwise the -rabbit will not be able to push it from him.</p> - -<div id='i_351' class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_351.jpg' alt='Fig. 5, Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Instead of a box, a section of a hollow log, called in the -South a “gum,” may be used, two stakes being driven in -front to hold the door. Fig. 6.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The muskrat is an abundant animal about ponds, ditches, -and the banks of sluggish streams. It is easily trapped. -They remind one of little beavers, and if their fur was not -<span class='pageno' id='Page_340'>340</span>so very common it would be more highly prized, for it is -really soft and fine. If one can find their runway (a path -eight or nine inches wide along which they travel from place -to place) one can always capture them by the same kind of -trap that an Indian sets for beaver and otter, as well as for -musquash. He calls it the “<i><span lang="nai" xml:lang="nai">kilheg’n</span></i>.” Fig. 7.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Drive two stakes two feet or more high and at least an -inch thick into the ground three inches apart at one side of -the path. Opposite these two sticks drive in two more, -and lay a stick across between them, pushing it down nearly -level with the path for a bed-piece. Then get a pole of any -length whatever, lay the butt end across the path on top -of the bed, hewing the sides flat, if necessary. See that it -rests evenly on the bed, and keep the other end in place -with a stake driven on each side. This pole is called the -“fall.”</p> - -<p class='c011'>Lash each pair of stakes together at their tops with rope -or tough bark or withe, to prevent spreading, and lay a stiff -stick across. Cut a half-inch straight stick and lay it on -top of the bed, lashing one end loosely to the stake, leaving the -other end free to rise and fall. This is the trigger. Now for -the “crooked stick.” It is a stick as long as from the bed -to the cross-piece, and has a sudden bend at the upper end. -Often one can find a small sapling an inch through with just -the right bend at the end. Notch it as shown in Fig. 8. -Tie a stout cord or withe around the fall, raise the same nine -or ten inches, lay the crooked stick over the cross-piece, and -tie the withe fast. Then bend the other end of the crooked -stick towards the ground, and catch the top of it behind the -trigger, which is raised just enough (two inches) for the -purpose. When the rat comes along it steps on the trigger, -freeing the crooked stick, whereupon the fall drops and pins -the creature there. Heavy weights should be piled upon -the fall alongside the path, and the sides should be brushed -in to keep the animal from going around. No bait is required -for this trap.</p> - -<div id='i_353' class='figcenter id050'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_341'>341</span> -<img src='images/i_353.jpg' alt='Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>SOME USEFUL TRAPS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_342'>342</span>Alongside of their pond on a level spot contrive another -trap (Fig. 9) in the following manner:</p> - -<p class='c011'>Take a flat stick, about two inches wide, lay it on the -ground, and close to one end drive an upright stake on each -side. Let them stand some six inches high. Then, beginning -close to the two stakes, lay a two-foot stick at right -angles, its end resting on the first one. Alongside of this -lay another stick a little shorter, continuing thus, and making -each successive stick shorter, until the end of the sticks -is reached, thus forming a three-cornered platform, which is -then weighted with heavy stones. Construct a figure 4 -(Fig. 9 A) out of sticks as thick as one’s finger, making the -bait-stick eighteen or twenty inches long. Set the figure 4 -under the platform at the very end of the stick, the bait-stick -passing between the upright stakes. Bait with a carrot, -a parsnip, apple, etc., and a rat should be there in the -morning.</p> - -<p class='c011'>If the trap does not lie flat on the ground place sticks under -it. This same trap, baited with a fowl’s head or a bird or -meat, is also useful as a skunk-trap, being placed in the -woods near their burrows.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The mink is another common animal, and it is found by -almost every brook-side. It is a great traveller, following -the stream, feeding upon fish, and picking up a bird or mouse -<span class='pageno' id='Page_343'>343</span>whenever opportunity affords. For a trap I take two round -poles six to eight feet long, and about three inches thick at -the butt. On a level spot, never more than a few feet away -from the water, I drive a stake firmly into the ground, and -lay the two poles, butts together, one on top of the other, -against the stake, and drive two more stakes on the other -side about six inches apart. Sometimes when the ground -is soft two stakes (Fig. 10) should be driven in front instead -of one. A stick a foot long will serve equally well -for the bed-piece. Then a pen or house is built of stakes, or -long chips, or stones, or pieces of board in the form of a V -or Π, about nine inches tall, eight inches deep, and six -inches wide. Then two sticks are prepared—one three inches -long and half an inch thick, called the “standard” (Fig. -12), the other eight inches long, and of the same thickness, -called the bait-stick, one end being sharpened, the other -flattened. The bait, the head of a fowl or fish, is tied to -the sharp point of the bait-stick. The fall is raised, -the standard set sideways on the flat end on the bait-stick, -and the fall lowered, until it rests on top of the -standard, the bait-stick being inside the house. As the -sticks are arranged, the mink, entering over the bed -and under the fall, will have to give quite a pull before -dislodging the standard on which the fall rests. So take -a peg, cut a notch into it near the top deep enough to -secure the bait-stick, and drive it into the ground inside the -pen and close to one side. Now the standard can be set -much nearer the outer end of the bait-stick, and the moment -the bait is tugged at, the bait-stick flies from under the -notched peg, and down comes the fall. The bed may be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_344'>344</span>hewn to an edge on top, and the parts of the trap should -work without a hitch. A stone, or board, or sheet of bark, -or a handful of evergreen boughs should be laid over the -house, not only to keep the animal out, but also the rain and -snow from the triggers which may freeze up and stick fast. -Two pegs driven into the ground at the end of the fall will -hold it in place, and, like every deadfall, it should be heavily -weighted with logs as shown in Figs. 10 and 11.</p> - -<p class='c011'>There are many different ways of building traps with this -simple bait-stick and standard—a combination in general -use in the fur countries. Some are made large for fishers, -and set on logs and high stumps for sable or marten. In -Canada, where the snow is very deep, I have seen long lines -of sable-traps on stumps seven feet from the ground, the -other end of the fall resting on another stump of the same -height. In such cases a tree is cut for the purpose, and by -a skilful way of chopping, the stake in front of the trap is -left standing as part of the stump, and the chips are sharpened -and driven into the top of the stump for the house.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Again, a hollow is chopped into a tree, a stake driven in -front, and the bait-stick thrust inside.</p> - -<div id='i_357' class='figcenter id027'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_345'>345</span> -<img src='images/i_357.jpg' alt='Fig. 11, Fig. 12, Fig. 13, Fig. 14, Fig. 15, Fig. 16' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>DEADFALLS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>There are many other deadfalls in use. Among the most -deadly is what may be called the “wigwam.” It is thus -constructed: With a hatchet or an axe break some small -sticks, and driving them into the ground in the shape of a -crescent build the bait-pen or house. Bring them together -at the top as in Fig. 13. Next cut a green stick about four -inches in diameter and about eight feet long. Lay in front -of the pen, directly up against it. Peg it firmly there by -driving wooden pins against it at the ends. So much done. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_346'>346</span>Now get another stick of the same length and lay it on top -of the first pole. Fix it in position by driving pins against -it as in Fig. 14. When this is finished take two small, round -sticks or twigs, cut one about five inches in length, and the -other near ten inches, or the depth of the bait-pen. Raise -the top log and lay the longer of the little round twigs on it, -with the end on which the bait is to be placed on the inside. -The ends of the little twig must be round. Set it on end, -with the upper end resting on the upper log and the lower -end resting on the first little stick as in Fig. 15.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When an animal comes to get the bait he has to put his -fore-legs into the pen, and the minute he touches the bait -the upper log falls, catching him in the centre of the back. -Skunks can be easily caught this way without the least -smell. Spikes may be driven through the upper log for -large game. Fig. 16 is a variation of the same idea.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Woodchucks or ground-hogs will be attracted to a trap -by baiting with their favorite food; but they soon go into -winter quarters, from which they do not emerge until spring. -There are special traps for other animals and birds. Good -judgment, knowledge of the appearance and the food and -habits of the bird or animal are necessary to success in trapping, -as well as an eye quick to recognize the signs of the -game, particularly their runways.</p> - -<div id='i_359' class='figcenter id051'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_347'>347</span> -<img src='images/i_359.jpg' alt='Fig. 17' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Traps in cold countries need not be visited oftener than -once a week, but if they are near home most boys like to go -to them every day. Skinning can best be done at home. -The curing of skins is a matter of great importance if the fur -is to be sold, for dealers will only pay for good fur properly -prepared. It must be “prime”—that is, from November to -the middle of April (water fur a fortnight later) the inside of -the skin will be white and the fur thick and glossy; at other -times it becomes dark and thin and the fur poor. Muskrats, -mink, sable, foxes, weasel, opossum, and skunk require to -be <em>cased</em>—that is, without any cut down the middle. Wolf, -badger, raccoon, bear, beaver must be <em>open</em>. The manner -<span class='pageno' id='Page_348'>348</span>of preparing <em>cased</em> fur is to make a cut around the ankles, -then a slit down the back of the leg to the tail, the skin to -be peeled off the legs and the root of the tail to be put into -the end of a split stick and the core pulled right out. Then -the skin is pulled off over the head. In the case of -certain animals, like the mink and muskrat, there is a scent-bag -near the tail which is liable to get cut, with unpleasant -consequences, so the best trappers prefer to remove the hide -by commencing at the lips and peeling it off through the -opening of the mouth, making no other cut in the skin save -at the legs, when the skin is opened by a cut from leg to tail -as at the start. The muskrat may be stretched on a pliant -stick three feet long, bent into a bow, and the skin, fur inward, -pulled over it. The legs are slitted and caught over -notches in the side, and one end of the stick is bent squarely -across and fastened either into the split top of the other or -into a notch, and the loose middles of the skin tied up to the -cross-piece. Fig. 17 <i>b</i>.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For mink, etc., never use a single board—it may tear the -skin—but make a double stretcher (Fig. 17 <i>a</i>). Take a half-inch -board of pine or cedar, two feet long and three inches -wide, and taper it to two inches at one end and shave the -outside almost to an edge. The board is then split in half -with a saw; where no saw is at hand the two pieces are -whittled out separately. The stretchers are now put into -the skin, and the legs pulled out as far as they will go and -tacked in place, or a slit made in each and the leg hooked -over a notch in the edge of the stretcher. Then a wedge -two feet long, an inch wide, and tapering to a point is inserted -between the stretcher, and driven down until the skin -<span class='pageno' id='Page_349'>349</span>is as tight as a drum-head. The middles are then tacked -fast, and a square-pointed stick inserted into the tail. If -the boards threaten to collapse, two short sticks with ends -lashed together pushed over them will keep them flat. The -tail-piece (Fig. 18) shows a mink-skin properly stretched. A -fox-stretcher will be exactly twice the dimensions of the -mink-stretcher; others in proportion. The raccoon, bear, -etc., is skinned by a cut from chin to tail, cuts being made -up the legs at right angles to the cut, and stretched upon a -square frame (Fig. 17 <i>d</i>) by means of a lacing of cord or -tough bark. Formerly all open skins were stretched on the -hoop-stretcher (Fig. 17 <i>c</i>), but now only the beaver is treated -that way.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Skins must never be dried in the sun nor by a hot fire. -Nor should any preservatives whatever be applied, not even -salt, until ready for tanning. All fat should be removed, -taking care for knife-cuts.</p> - -<div id='i_361' class='figcenter id025'> -<img src='images/i_361.jpg' alt='Fig. 18' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_350'>350</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xx' class='c016'>Chapter XX<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>TREE HUTS AND BRUSH-HOUSES</span></h3> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_2_0_8 c010'><span class='sc'>The</span> most delightful season in the woods, throughout -the northern and middle parts of the United States, is -during the summer months, and in the South right up to -Christmas; while in other parts of the country, through -southern Texas and California, the woods are attractive all -through the year.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Brush-houses, sylvan retreats, and tree huts of various -kinds are made by boys all over the country, and some very -unique and original ones are often constructed from simple -and inexpensive materials. Everything from the back-yard -“lean-to” and the tent of sheets to the tree huts that are -inaccessible when the rope-ladder is drawn up may be made -by boys who are at all handy with tools, and a well-built -tree hut is an ideal place in which to spend one’s vacation -days.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The following ideas and suggestions may be of service, -and they have all been tested in practical experience.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xx_1' class='c014'>A Low Twin-tree Hut</h4> - -<p class='c015'>A very serviceable twin-tree hut is shown in Fig. 1, and -it can easily be constructed, at a small cost, from ordinary -<span class='pageno' id='Page_351'>351</span>boards and timbers. If it is built high up in the trees it -is doubly secure from invasion, for the ladder can be drawn -up when the owners are at home and it will be a difficult -matter for outsiders to enter.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To properly build this hut select a location between two -trees six to eight feet apart. The trees should have comparatively -straight trunks at least fifteen inches in diameter, -and no cavities at the base nor indications of decay.</p> - -<p class='c011'>With an axe clear off the brush and small branches for -twenty feet up from the ground at the inside of the trunks, -or where the hut is to be located. From a lumber-yard -obtain four or five pieces of spruce or other timber two -inches thick, eight inches wide, and sixteen feet long. Saw -off and nail two of these pieces to the trunks of the trees -eight feet above the ground, first cutting away some of the -bark and wood of the trunk to afford a flat surface for the -timbers to lie against on each side. Six-inch steel-wire nails -will be required for these anchorages, and under the timbers -and lying flat against the tree-trunks bracket-blocks two-by-eight -inches and fifteen inches long are securely spiked -to lend additional support to the cross-timbers.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Cut two timbers six feet long and two others the length -of the distance between tree-trunks. In the six-foot pieces -cut notches at the under side as shown in Fig. 2 C C. Into -these the ends of bracket-timbers D D will fit. Cut the -ends of the timbers forming the square frame so that they -will dovetail as shown in Fig. 3. Spike the six-foot timbers -to the tree-trunks so that they will rest on the first two -timbers that were nailed to the trees, and from the two-by-eight-inch -wood cut four brackets D D, and spike them -<span class='pageno' id='Page_352'>352</span>fast under each cross-timber so each tree will appear as -shown in Fig. 2. Place the remaining two timbers in position -so that the ends will fit into those fastened to the trees, -and nail them fast as shown in Fig. 4.</p> - -<div id='i_364' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_364.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>In Fig. 5 the first timbers can be seen spiked to the tree-trunks, -where they are supported by the fifteen-inch blocks -nailed fast below them. The cross-timbers are shown at -<span class='pageno' id='Page_353'>353</span>A A, and the last ones, forming the frame that are let into -dove-tailed joints at the ends, are shown at B B. Cut two -more timbers E E, and lay them across the supporting -timbers, nailed to the tree, so they will fit inside the front -and back timbers B B, where they are to be well secured -with long nails. The floor frame will then be complete.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From two-by-three-inch spruce construct a frame seven -feet high at the front, six feet at the back, and spike the -side timbers F F, forming the top, to the inside of the tree-trunks -as shown in Fig. 5. The bottom of the uprights are -to be mounted on the corners of the floor frame as shown in -Fig. 4, where four long nails will hold them securely in place.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Cut two timbers and arrange them in an upright position -at the front thirty inches apart, where the door will come, -then half-way between the floor and top of the framework -run a timber all around except between the door timbers. -This will add a strengthening rib to which the sheathing -boards can be nailed, and will also make one more anchorage -to the tree-trunks. The side-rails should be spiked to the -tree-trunks in a corresponding manner to that of the top or -roof-strips. From a lumber-yard obtain some four, six, or -ten inch matched boards, planed on both sides, and use -them for the floor and sheathing.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The roof may be made from the same kind of boards, and -over them a thickness or two of tarred paper is to be laid -and fastened down at the edges and seams with small metal -washers and nails that can be had where the paper is purchased. -This will make the roof water-tight, for a season -at least; and if it is given one or two coats of paint it will -preserve the paper so that it may last for several years.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_354'>354</span>Two or three windows twenty-four inches square may -be placed in the back and sides of the hut above the middle -rib; and a door of boards held together with battens, as -shown in the illustration, is to be made and hung with long, -stout strap-hinges. A knob lock or a hasp and padlock will -keep the door closed when the hut is unoccupied. When in -use a wooden button will hold the door shut from the -inside.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A ladder of hickory poles and cross-sticks should be made -twenty inches wide and provided with loops at the top that -will fit over large nails driven in the door-sill, so as to keep -it from slipping when it bends under the weight of a boy.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Where the rungs join the side-rails of the ladder the union -is made by lashing the cross-sticks fast with tarred rigging -or stout cotton line. If a flexible ladder is preferred ropes -may be used in place of the side-rails to which the rungs are -lashed fast. When the owners are at home the ladder can -be drawn up and hung on nails driven in the front edge of -the roof. If a rope-ladder is used it can be drawn in and -rolled up.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Inside of the hut, at either end, a seat eighteen inches -wide should be built in about sixteen inches up from the -floor. These seats can be used as bunks if desired. Some -narrow shelving should be arranged over the windows and -fastened there with brackets, on which small things may be -kept.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A small table may be made from some ends of the sheathing -boards and two-by-three-inch spruce sticks; and boxes -may be used for seats, or small benches can easily be knocked -together as shown in Fig. 6 A. Under the table a ledge -<span class='pageno' id='Page_355'>355</span>twelve inches wide is to be attached to the lower cross-rails -that connect the legs as shown at Fig. 6 B.</p> - -<div id='i_367' class='figcenter id052'> -<img src='images/i_367.jpg' alt='Fig. 7' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A HIGH TWIN-TREE HUT</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_356'>356</span>A wall-nest may be made from a shoe-case in which four -or five shelves are arranged as shown in Fig. 6 C. A door -made from the box-cover is attached with hinges, and a -catch or hasp will keep it closed.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xx_2' class='c014'>A High Twin-tree Hut</h4> - -<p class='c015'>Twelve or fifteen feet above the ground, and built in -between the trunks of two stout trees, a high tree hut is -shown in Fig. 7. Larger and more substantial trees must -be selected to build this hut in than the ones for the -low hut, and as a rope-ladder will probably be used a -landing-deck or piazza should be built at the front of -the hut.</p> - -<p class='c011'>While this hut is built between two trees it is also built -against them, as the trunk of each tree can be partially -enclosed in the hut. The under cross-timbers that support -the floor frame are to be attached to the trees the same as -described for the low tree hut, and on these the other timbers -are laid and fastened as shown in Fig. 8. The main -timbers extend beyond the outside of the trunks, and the -supporting and floor timbers enclose each trunk. At the -front the frame is carried forward two feet more than at the -back, allowing this much for the width of the deck. The -uprights are arranged somewhat differently also, as they are -bound at the top to scantlings that butt into the trunks. -Fig. 8 A A.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Instead of a flat roof like the low hut, this one is to have -<span class='pageno' id='Page_357'>357</span>a pitched roof, the supporting timbers of which are attached -to the ridge-poles B B, which are fastened to the tree-trunks -in the same manner as the under cross-timbers. This construction -is clearly shown in Fig. 8, where the location of -each upright and cross-piece is indicated.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A rail is run along the front and one end of the deck, and -is fastened at the top of four uprights of two-by-three-inch -spruce, the lower ends of which are securely nailed to the -front stringers as the illustration shows.</p> - -<p class='c011'>In place of the supporting brackets D D that are let into -the timber C at Fig. 2, longer brackets or props are caught -under the floor timbers and braced at the lower end against -the trunks, where an additional anchorage or support is -made by a stout block which is securely spiked to the trunk -underneath each bracket end as shown in Fig. 8 C C. The -frame is then enclosed as described for the low hut, and -windows and a door are mounted as shown.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A long, stiff ladder may be used to climb up, but a more -interesting ladder can be made of rope and hickory rungs. -By means of a thin rope attached to the bottom rung the -ladder can be hauled up to the deck so that it is out of the -reach of other boys; and being fastened at the top, no -one can remove it or pull it away as they could a stiff -ladder.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A rope-ladder is made of stout clothes-line and hickory -rungs lashed together securely with strong line as shown in -Fig. 9. The rungs are of straight hickory with or without -the bark on, one inch and a quarter thick and twenty-four -inches long. Near the end of each rung a notch is cut on -both sides for the rope to lie in, as shown at the upper end -<span class='pageno' id='Page_358'>358</span>of Fig. 9, and each union is to be very securely bound with -the line so as to prevent slipping.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The ladder is hung on stout wooden pegs driven into the -deck through holes one inch and a half in diameter. An -extra rope is to be carried from the top rung up over the -pegs and down again, where a wrap is taken over one or two -rungs; then it is lashed fast to the other ropes with the stout -line as shown in Fig. 10.</p> - -<div id='i_370' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_370.jpg' alt='Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 12' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Bunks and furniture can be made for the interior, and -any other convenient accessories to the comfort and pleasure -of the boy owners may be added as need arises.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xx_3' class='c014'><span class='pageno' id='Page_359'>359</span>A Single-tree Hut</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In the spreading branches of a large oak-tree a very snug -roost can be made high above the ground as shown in Fig. -11 (frontispiece).</p> - -<p class='c011'>This single-tree hut is twenty-five feet above the ground, -and below it is a landing from which the rope-ladder is -dropped. From this landing to the piazza or deck of the -hut a stiff ladder is made fast both at top and bottom, and -an opening in the floor of the deck will allow room to climb -up on the deck.</p> - -<p class='c011'>As very few trees are alike it would be difficult to give a -plan for the floor timbers among the out-spreading branches; -but from the plans shown for the twin-tree hut some idea -of the construction can be had for single-tree huts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The main tree-trunk will, of course, have to project up -through the hut, and the location in the tree should be -selected so that out-spreading branches will form a support -to the lower edges of the floor frame as may be seen in Fig. -12, the plan of a low tree hut.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A peaked, a mansard, or a flat roof can be placed on the -hut, depending on the main trunk to give it support; and -if the space in the tree will permit, a deck across the front -and both sides will be found useful. The floor timbers -should be well braced to the main trunk of the tree with -long and short bracket-pieces or props. These will help -greatly in making the hut steady in the tree, and where the -lower ends are attached to the trunk large spikes should be -well driven in. Cleats or blocks can be nailed fast under the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_360'>360</span>ends also, as they will help to support and strengthen the -anchorage.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Water and food can be kept cool by suspending them in -a shady place. Water in a porous jug or earthen pitcher -will keep very cold if hung in the tree branches where the air -can freely circulate around it. Keep fire away from the -tree huts, and do not light any matches nor burn candles, -for if once a fire is started nothing will save your hut. It -is too high to reach with a bucket, and, located as it is, a -perfect draught will fan a small flame into a raging fire in -no time.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xx_4' class='c014'>A Low Single-tree Hut</h4> - -<p class='c015'>It is not always best to build a hut in high trees, nor -is it possible to do so in every case, because there may not -be any high, large trees at hand strong enough to support a -hut. For younger boys a low tree hut is preferable, so -that if a possible misstep should result in a fall it would be -less harmful than from a high tree. An apple or maple tree -often affords a good support for a low tree hut, and if the -trunk is substantially heavy a house similar to the one -shown in Fig. 12 (page 358) can easily be constructed. The -tree should be large enough to bear the weight of the house -without straining it, particularly in a storm or high wind.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The general construction of the frame is shown in Fig. 12. -The frame should be of two-by-three-inch spruce and the -flooring beams can be of two-by-four-inch spruce or other -timber. One or two windows and a door may be arranged -in the hut, and tar-paper tacked on the roof will make it -water-proof.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_361'>361</span>Access to the hut can be had by means of a ladder made -from two-by-three-inch spruce rails with hickory rungs, or -two-by-one-inch hard-wood sticks securely nailed to the -rails.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xx_5' class='c014'>A Brush-house</h4> - -<p class='c015'>In nearly every part of the country where there is low -ground one may generally find a high growth of plant life -having a long stalk, with the greatest number of leaves at -or near the top. Artichokes, cat-tail reeds, wild sunflower, -and the stronger species of flag have stalks and reeds sufficiently -strong from which to make the sides and roof of a -hut or small house such as Fig. 13 depicts.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This growth is often ten feet high, and will have a straight -and uniform reed at least seven or eight feet up from the -ground before the thick top foliage reduces it in size. This -last should be cut away and the smaller under branches and -leaves trimmed off, leaving a comparatively straight shaft -from six to eight feet long. This will be limber enough to -be woven basket-fashion, and quite stiff enough to hold the -thatching of meadow-grass or cat-tail reeds.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To build a brush-house like the one shown in the illustration, -four sticks are to be set in the ground about six feet -apart, forming a square. These should be eight feet long -and sunk two feet into the ground, the upper ends being -bound together with rails two inches wide and an inch -thick.</p> - -<div id='i_374' class='figcenter id053'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_362'>362</span> -<img src='images/i_374.jpg' alt='Fig. 13, Fig. 14' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>A BRUSH-HOUSE</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>A pitch can be given to the roof by cutting off the rear -posts six inches and leaving six inches more of the front -posts out of the ground, thereby allowing a pitch of one foot -<span class='pageno' id='Page_363'>363</span>to the six-toot length of roof. This slant is not necessary, -however, and the roof may be flat if it is easier to make.</p> - -<p class='c011'>From the reeds a basket framework with eight-inch -meshes is to be woven, as the boys are doing in Fig. 14. -Three of these frames are to be made for the sides and rear -of the hut, and at the front, above the doorway, a smaller -one is to be made to cover the space between the front posts.</p> - -<div id='i_375' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_375.jpg' alt='Fig. 15, Fig. 16, Fig. 17' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The ends of the cross-reeds are to be bent around the end -upright reeds as shown in Fig. 15, where they can be bound -with string or tied with grass. The window openings in the -side frames are made by cutting out a section of one or two -uprights and turning the cross-reeds back and tying them. -At the doorway two upright sticks are driven into the ground -and a rail nailed across their upper ends.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To this wooden frame the front reeds may be attached, -and the skeleton hut or house is then ready to be thatched -<span class='pageno' id='Page_364'>364</span>with long, dry grass or dried cat-tail reeds. The thatching -is done by interweaving long grasses or reeds between the -cross-reeds in a vertical position as shown in Fig. 16. The -thatching material should be from eighteen to twenty-four -inches long so that it can be interwoven between three cross-reeds -as shown in Fig. 17, where a few strands of grasses are -placed in position to give an idea of how to weave the grass.</p> - -<div id='i_376' class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_376.jpg' alt='Fig. 18' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>Timothy or straw can be used to good advantage for -thatching material, and if it is employed it should be woven -with the heads up and not too close together, as the air -should get through the thatching to keep the occupants of -the hut cool. Of course a house may be made larger or -smaller than the one described, but the principle of good -construction is the same. Never depend on the four sides -to hold together without the corner-posts, as the first good -<span class='pageno' id='Page_365'>365</span>wind that happened along would blow it flat, and perhaps -beyond the possibility of repair.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The edges of each side are lashed fast to the corner-posts -with grass or string, and when the roof is made it should be -lashed fast to the top of the sides and front with long reeds -or grass.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The roof is woven the same as the sides but is thatched -closer; and about four inches of the roof should extend -over the sides, front, and rear.</p> - -<h4 id='section_xx_6' class='c014'>A Brush “Lean-to”</h4> - -<p class='c015'>The general lines of a miniature barn are shown in the -illustration of a brush “lean-to” (Fig. 18). This is constructed -in nearly the same manner as the brush-house, and -thatched with grass or reeds as shown in Figs. 16 and 17.</p> - -<div id='i_377' class='figcenter id054'> -<img src='images/i_377.jpg' alt='Fig. 19' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'><span class='pageno' id='Page_366'>366</span>The corner-posts are three feet high, the ridge-pole seven -feet and six inches above the ground, and the hut may be -from five to eight feet square or made oblong, as a matter -of choice.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A frame of scantling should be made for this lean-to the -same as if a wooden structure were to be built, and it must -be nailed together well to stand the strain of the wind blowing -hard against it. In general construction the frame -should appear like Fig. 19; and to the sticks the edges of -the thatched framework of reeds is to be lashed fast with -grass, either before or after the thatching is done.</p> - -<p class='c011'>A brush-house or any hut built on or near the ground is -not so cool to stay in as one in the trees, but it is, of course, -much easier to construct, as the boy builders do not have to -move about so carefully when at work, and their materials -can be picked up quickly.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Brush huts and houses can be built on the plains where -trees are scarce, but in a country rich in woods and forests -the boys prefer the tree huts, not only for their cool location, -but on account of the romance involved in the climbing up -to an inaccessible eyrie.</p> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_367'>367</span> -<h3 id='chapter_xxi' class='c016'>Chapter XXI<br /> <br /><span class='fss'>WALKING-STICKS</span></h3> -</div> - -<h4 id='section_xxi_1' class='c014'>How to Grow Them for Pleasure and Profit</h4> - -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_8 c017'><span class='sc'>Here</span> are some suggestions for an entirely new and fascinating -out-of-doors occupation.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It has become a habit with me when walking in the woods -to keep a sharp lookout for stocks for walking-sticks, so that -in the course of many years I have got together quite a -unique collection. To these a number have been added -through exchanges with friends.</p> - -<p class='c011'>This hobby has borne other fruit than the mere gathering -together of curious sticks. For have I not learned the -scientific and common names of most of our trees and -shrubs, their habits, and their values, their uses in the arts -and sciences, their medicinal qualities! So you see, my -young reader, what unthinking people would call a useless -and eccentric occupation (this gathering of old sticks) has -in reality proved to be an innocent and instructive pastime, -and I propose to continue to ride this walking-stick hobby -just as diligently as I used to ride grandpa’s walking-cane -to “Banbury Cross” when a child.</p> - -<p class='c011'>My first interesting cane capture consisted of a very curiously -shaped natural stick as shown in Fig. 1. It was of a -young hickory sapling at whose roots grew a bitter-sweet -<span class='pageno' id='Page_368'>368</span>vine, which, being of an ambitious turn of mind, had taken -many turns around the sapling in its eagerness to climb up -in the world. The sapling in the mean time extended its -bark well over the leader of the tough and clinging bitter-sweet -till but little of it was to be seen. At last the sapling, -feeling unusually vigorous, burst asunder the clinging bitter-sweet -vine, the result being a very unique walking-stick, -and a good illustration of the “survival of the fittest.”</p> - -<p class='c011'>The dead bitter-sweet vine was withdrawn from the -hickory, and from its root a handle was carved and bent. -On many occasions I have twisted vines of bitter-sweet and -the fox-grape around saplings of oak, hickory, and chestnut, -and have obtained very satisfactory results.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Where a vine is situated some distance from the sapling -selected for a cane, the vine can be “piped” (laid under the -ground) up to the sapling, and then twisted around it and -securely fastened at the top with wire, from three to four -feet above its root. If the sapling is so situated that it -obtains a bountiful supply of food and sunlight, a unique -cane of natural growth will be the result.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Having taken a hint from nature in the case of the bitter-sweet -vine and the hickory sapling, I extended my experiments -in many directions. Taking three cuttings (slips) of -basket-willow, I planted them close together as shown in -Fig. 2. After they had taken root and begun to push out -branches, I reduced the number of branches to one for each -cutting, always retaining the most vigorous branch.</p> - -<p class='c011'>As the three willow-trees increased in height the side -branches were constantly cut off. This treatment forced -the growth of the willows upward, so that when they had -<span class='pageno' id='Page_369'>369</span>attained a height of five feet I bound them together with a -living cat-brier vine, which was planted at their base, and -in course of time obtained a light walking-stick of novel -pattern as shown in Fig. 3. Another very interesting experiment -was grafting three willow stocks together so that -they formed a union, and became as it were one tree. This -was done by carefully cutting away two slices from three -young willows so as to form an obtuse angle as shown in -Fig. 4.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The angles so formed were carefully and accurately fitted -together as shown in the section Fig. 5. To hold the willows -closely together, and to exclude all air, I wrapped them -tightly with strips of unbleached cotton-sheeting. As soon -as they showed signs of life at their tops by sending out -young branches, I felt certain that a union of their barks -would form at the points indicated by the arrows in Fig. 5. -But it was not till several trials had been made that I was -successful in this novel experiment of combining three -willow saplings.</p> - -<p class='c011'>It very often occurs that after a tree has been cut down -a number of canes or suckers will start up from the stump. -These suckers make excellent walking-sticks when properly -cured and peeled. For a lady’s riding-whip I know of nothing -better than three willow withes plaited together. This -plaiting must be done when the willow withes are young, -and when attached to the parent tree, on which they are -allowed to remain for a year after having been plaited together. -By this time they will have grown firmly together -in consequence of the bark conforming to the bent strands -of the plait.</p> - -<div id='i_382' class='figcenter id005'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_370'>370</span> -<img src='images/i_382.jpg' alt='Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, Fig. 7, Fig. 8, Fig. 9, Fig. 10, Fig. 11' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c011'>The following kinds of native woods are used for walking-sticks:</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Holly.</span>—Sticks of this wood are found growing out from -the sides of older growths, and shooting up in nearly a -straight line. Occasionally they may be cut with a crutch-piece -across the growing end, or with a crook or knob. -These are the most valuable. They may be found on a -well-grown sapling in the deep woods. This should be -pulled or dug up for the sake of its roots. Saplings and -hedge-sticks may often be found from three to four feet long, -and from three-eighths to a quarter of an inch in diameter. -These are not suitable for walking-sticks, but they make -excellent whip-handles. The holly makes tough, supple, -and moderately heavy walking-sticks, and its close-grained -<span class='pageno' id='Page_371'>371</span>wood admits of much skill in carving the knob formed by -the root and its rootlets.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Ash.</span>—Respectable sticks of this wood may sometimes be -cut out of a hedge or pulled from the side of an old stump. -Ash sticks must also be roughly trimmed and well seasoned -before they are barked and polished. The root knobs admit -of excellent grotesque carving.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Oak.</span>—This of all sticks is the most reliable, and stout -oaken cudgels are esteemed by most persons as affording -the best props for failing legs, as well as the best weapons of -self-defence against quarrelsome dogs, ruffians, and tramps. -Straight sticks of sapling oak are not always easily obtained, -but copse-wood sticks pulled from the trunks of trees form -excellent substitutes. These should be selected for walking-sticks -that taper from one inch below the knob or crutch to -one inch at the ferrule end. Oak sticks split in drying when -the bark has been stripped off or the knobs and branches -cut too close, or when the sticks are dried too rapidly in a -very dry place. They are then rendered useless for walking-sticks -and cudgels.</p> - -<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Elm.</span>—From the roots of elm-trees saplings often shoot -up to a height of some ten feet; these furnish good walking-sticks -of fancy styles, the rough bark serving the purpose of -ornamentation when the sticks are dried, stained, varnished, -and polished.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Among fruit trees the cherry, apple, and pear furnish -some very nice, fancy walking-sticks, being supple and of -moderate strength.</p> - -<p class='c011'>When sticks are half dried—that is, when the bark is -shrunken, has lost its sappy greenness, and refuses to peel -<span class='pageno' id='Page_372'>372</span>freely—they may be trimmed, straightened, or bent, as required. -The wood and also the form of the knobs and roots -will admit of much taste being displayed in grotesque and -fancy carving.</p> - -<p class='c011'>I know of a young man in Florida, not yet twenty-one -years of age, who is paying his way through college by collecting -and curing sticks of the wild orange, on the handles -of which he carves during his leisure time and vacations -full-length figures of alligators as shown in Fig. 6. I have -examined several of these sticks, and the entire work seems -to be done with small chisels and a parting or V-tool. These -sticks are in constant demand with visitors and tourists in -Florida, and have become known as “orange-wood ’gator -canes.” This fact may be suggestive to some of our ingenious -farmer boys who are struggling to obtain a college -course.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Walking-sticks can be gathered at all seasons. The sticks -should be laid aside in a moderately dry and cool place, and -should not be worked or the bark taken off till they are half -dry. They are then most supple, and may be bent or -straightened without injury. When laying by sticks to dry, -the knots and spurs should not be trimmed close; it is best -to trim them only roughly, leaving the spurs of branches and -roots on the stick fully an inch long.</p> - -<p class='c011'>To straighten or bend the sticks, they should be steamed -until they are supple, or buried in hot, wet sand until they -become soft; they must then, while still hot, be given the -form they are intended to keep, and kept in this form until -they are cold. Straight sticks are tied firmly together in -small bundles, and wound with a coil of rope from end to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_373'>373</span>end; they are then suspended to a beam by their knob ends, -and a heavy weight is attached to the ferrule ends. Crooks -may be turned by soaking the end in boiling water for half -an hour, then bending it to the desired form, and retaining -it in its position by means of a tourniquet (as shown in -Fig. 7) until the stick is cold.</p> - -<p class='c011'>The bark may then be taken off with a sharp knife, but -care must be taken not to split or chip the wood. Knots -may be trimmed at the same time, and the root knobs turned -into grotesque shapes. There are no rules that can be given -to guide one when carving the roots into handles, since their -forms are governed by the outlines of the roots, these often -being very suggestive of themselves. The group of heads -shown in Figs. 8, 9, 10, and 11 will illustrate what I mean. -Figs. 8 and 9 show the rough stick, Figs. 10 and 11 the -finished heads.</p> - -<p class='c011'>One or two points should receive considerable attention -when designing the handles. If the stick is to be a fancy -one to be carried and swung in the hand, the roots can be -carved into grotesque or fancy forms. But if for use, the -handle should be round and smooth, so as to fit comfortably -in the hand. The head of a dog, or a swan or goose, forms -an appropriate design for a stick that is to be held on the -arm when lighting a match, or when wishing to have both -hands free. The crutch and hook are also comfortable -forms.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Wooden handles are given touches of rich brown by applying -a red-hot iron to the parts to be colored.</p> - -<p class='c011'>All sticks with the rough bark left on should be neatly -trimmed naked around the neck of the handle, and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_374'>374</span>whole lightly gone over with fine sand or emery paper. The -cane should then receive several dressings of boiled linseed-oil -and be left to dry. When dry, a coat of shellac varnish -is applied. Oak canes look best when carefully barked in -hot water, the loose bark being removed by rubbing with -coarse canvas, and the cane then dried, dressed with boiled -linseed-oil, again dried, then polished, and varnished with -shellac or furniture varnish, and again polished.</p> - -<p class='c011'>Dogwood and Osage orange sticks can be stained black -by brushing them over with a hot and strong decoction of -logwood and nut gall. When this is thoroughly dried, -brush them over with vinegar in which a few rusty nails -have been steeped for two or three days. Some persons use -ink for a black stain, others introduce “drop black” in the -varnish; a brown or mahogany stain may be obtained by -adding some “dragon’s-blood” to the varnish. The lower -ends of the sticks should be guarded from excessive wear by -a neat brass ferrule; these are cheaper to purchase at a -hardware store than to make, though I have often used -brass thimbles and tailors’ steel thimbles as a substitute. -These can be fastened by means of hot shellac, or with a -brass pin driven into a hole in the thimble and passing -through the wood of the stick.</p> - -<p class='c011'>For fastening carved or rustic heads or handles on sticks -hot glue or thick shellac varnish is used. A good-sized hole -is first bored into the handle and a hole of similar size in -the stick; a dowel is driven into the hole in the stick (using -plenty of glue), after which the handle is driven on to the -dowel-pin. Handles may be made of horn, which can be -softened for bending by boiling in oil (not kerosene) or hot -<span class='pageno' id='Page_375'>375</span>fat. Hard-woods that will take a polish, and vegetable -ivory, which is very easy and pleasant to carve, are good -materials to use for handles. For small sticks, bone will be -found an easy material to shape into handles.</p> - -<p class='c011'>All the manufacturers of walking-sticks and umbrella and -parasol handles state that the demand for native woods -suitable for canes and sticks is constant all the year round, -and that the sticks may be gathered at all seasons of the -year and sent to market, both straight and crooked sticks -being salable, also roots for handles.</p> - -<hr class='c019' /> - -<p class='c011'>With this we reach the end of our out-door handy book, -which we trust may become the daily and invaluable companion -of all healthy, active American boys. The in-door -handy book, the book of electricity, and the book of mechanics -for boys, which are to follow, will form, we believe, -the distinctive American boy’s library of practical handy -books.</p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_377'>377</span> - <h2 id='index' class='c005'>INDEX</h2> -</div> - -<div class='lg-container-l c020'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Aërial toys, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>-<a href='#Page_98'>98</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>elastic flying-machine, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>-<a href='#Page_86'>86</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>self-acting aerial car, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>-<a href='#Page_91'>91</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>aerial boat-sailing, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>-<a href='#Page_95'>95</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a “high-flyer,” <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>-<a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Air-ship kite, an, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#i_139'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Anglers, aids for young, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>-<a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Aquarium, an, construction of, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>-<a href='#Page_18'>18</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>stocking, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>,<a href='#Page_172'>172</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>changing the water in, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>rockeries for, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>how to manage, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>plants for, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>aërating, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Arrow weather-vane, the, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Artificial bait for fish, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Badger, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bait, box for, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>bag for, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>worms as, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>minnows as, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>seine for catching live, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>boat for, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for large fish, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for chub, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for bass, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for perch, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for trout, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>where to find, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>-<a href='#Page_169'>169</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>dobsons as, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>pails for, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>artificial, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>darning-needles as, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for eel-pots, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bait-rods, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>-<a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Basket-ball vane, a, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bat-wing kite, the, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bear, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Beaver, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Becket hitch,” the, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bends: the common, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the Carrick, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the fisherman’s, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the sheet, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>diagrams showing, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i></div> - <div class='line in2'><i>See also</i> Hitches and Knots.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bird shelters, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>-<a href='#Page_34'>34</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>martin-boxes, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Blackwall hitch, the, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Boats: home-made, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-<a href='#Page_238'>238</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a punt, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>-<a href='#Page_214'>214</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a scow, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a sharpy, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>-<a href='#Page_218'>218</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a dory, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>-<a href='#Page_221'>221</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a sailing sharpy, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>-<a href='#Page_225'>225</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a centre-board sharpy, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>-<a href='#Page_228'>228</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a proa, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>-<a href='#Page_230'>230</a>; a lark, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>-<a href='#Page_235'>235</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a power-boat, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>-<a href='#Page_238'>238</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a rowing catamaran, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>-<a href='#Page_241'>241</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a sailing catamaran, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>-<a href='#Page_247'>247</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a side-wheel catamaran, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a house-punt, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>-<a href='#Page_267'>267</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a house-raft, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>-<a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</div> - <div class='line in2'><i>See also</i> Ice-boats.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bob-sled, a, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Boughs, a cot of, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bowline knot, the, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Box kites, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Brush-house, a, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>-<a href='#Page_364'>364</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Brush lean-to, a, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>-<a href='#Page_366'>366</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Cages, for squirrels, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>-<a href='#Page_47'>47</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for chipmunks, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for white rats, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i></div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Camp-cooking, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>-<a href='#Page_330'>330</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Camp-fires, how to make, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Camping equipment, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Camps and camping, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>-<a href='#Page_333'>333</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a tent of medium size, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>-<a href='#Page_300'>300</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a large camping-tent, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>-<a href='#Page_303'>303</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>flies and canopies, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a house-tent, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>-<a href='#Page_307'>307</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the new tent, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>-<a href='#Page_310'>310</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>canvas cots and hammocks, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>-<a href='#Page_313'>313</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>tables and benches, <a href='#i_313'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>-<a href='#Page_315'>315</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>camping equipment, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'><span class='pageno' id='Page_378'>378</span>lockers and mess-kits, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>-<a href='#Page_319'>319</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a stone stove, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>camp-fires, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>camp-cooking, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>-<a href='#Page_330'>330</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>care of a gun, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>-<a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Canopy, a toadstool tree, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Canvas cot, a, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a folding, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Carriage, a hose, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>-<a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Carrick bend, the, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Carry-all, a, for campers, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Cased fur, manner of preparing, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Casting, fly, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>-<a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Catamaran, a rowing, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a>-<a href='#Page_241'>241</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a sailing, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a>-<a href='#Page_247'>247</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a side-wheel, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Catspaw hitch, the, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Chairs for camp life, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Chest-reel, a, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Chicken-coops, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>-<a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Chinese-junk kite, the, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Clove hitch, the, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Coasters, skees, and snow-shoes, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>-<a href='#Page_114'>114</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>toboggans, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>-<a href='#Page_104'>104</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a rocker-coaster, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a single-runner coaster, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a bob-sled, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>-<a href='#Page_109'>109</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>skees, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>snow-shoes, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>-<a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Common bend, the, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Coops for chickens, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>-<a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Cot, a canvas, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a folding, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>of boughs, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Cotes, pigeon, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>-<a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Crowned wall knot, the, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Crown-top kite, the, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Curing of skins, the, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>-<a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Deadfalls, for muskrat, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#i_353'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for skunk, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the “wigwam,” <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>, <a href='#i_357'>345</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Diagrams, showing splices, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>showing knots, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>showing bends, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>showing hitches, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Diamond knot, the, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Dog-kennels, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-<a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Dory, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>-<a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Double-plane kite, the, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Double wall and double crown knot, the, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Eel-pot, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>baiting, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Elastic flying-machine, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>-<a href='#Page_86'>86</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Engine, a fire, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>-<a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Equipment for camping, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Fires, camp, how to make, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fire-engine, a, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>-<a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fisherman’s bend, the, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a>, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fish, for aquariums, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>cleaning, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>bait for, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>-<a href='#Page_169'>169</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>trap for small, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>-<a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fishing, pleasure in, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>secret of success in, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fishing-tackle, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>-<a href='#Page_166'>166</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>testing, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>care of, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>rods, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>lines, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>hooks, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>reels, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>floats, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>sinkers, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>landing-nets, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>flies, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>repairing, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>-<a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Float, a, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>-<a href='#Page_279'>279</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Floats, fish, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Flies for camping-tents, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fly-casting, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>-<a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fly-rods, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>-<a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Flying-wedge kite, the, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fountain, a, how made, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>-<a href='#Page_14'>14</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Fox, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>stretcher, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Ground-hogs, how to trap, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Grubs for fish bait, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Guinea-pig houses, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Gun, the care of a, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a>, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the handling of a, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a>-<a href='#Page_333'>333</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Half hitches, two, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hammock, a canvas, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Handles for walking-sticks, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“High-flyer,” a, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>-<a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hitches: the “Becket,” <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>two half, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the clove, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the slippery, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the Blackwall, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'><span class='pageno' id='Page_379'>379</span>the timber, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the rolling, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the Magnus, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the catspaw, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the sheepshank, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the marling, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i></div> - <div class='line in2'><i>See also</i> Bends and Knots.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hook-and-ladder truck, a, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>-<a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hooks, fish, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>putting, to gut, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hoop drop-net, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hoop-stretcher, a, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hose-carriage, a, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>-<a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>House-boats, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>-<a href='#Page_277'>277</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a house-punt, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>-<a href='#Page_267'>267</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a house-raft, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>-<a href='#Page_277'>277</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Houses for guinea-pigs, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>How to grow walking-sticks, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>-<a href='#Page_369'>369</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hut, a low twin-tree, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>-<a href='#Page_356'>356</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a high twin-tree, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>-<a href='#Page_356'>356</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a single-tree, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a low single-tree, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hutches for rabbits, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>-<a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Ice-boats, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>-<a href='#Page_260'>260</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a sloop-rigged ice-yacht, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>-<a href='#Page_253'>253</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a twin-mast ice-yacht, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>scoots and scooters, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>-<a href='#Page_259'>259</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a wind-runner, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Ice-sail, a square-rigged, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Ice-yacht, a sloop-rigged, how to make, <a href='#Page_249'>249</a>-<a href='#Page_253'>253</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a twin-mast, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Invisible,” or “whip-finish,” knot, the, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Kennels for dogs, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-<a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Kites: the ship, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>-<a href='#Page_122'>122</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the Chinese-junk, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>-<a href='#Page_124'>124</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the schooner, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a balloon, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>an air-ship, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#i_139'>127</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>bat-wing, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>crown-top, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>Sandwich Island bird, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>-<a href='#Page_131'>131</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>box, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the “paralleloplane,” <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the flying-wedge, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>-<a href='#Page_138'>138</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the double-plane, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>reels, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>-<a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Knots: the “invisible,” or “whip-finish,” <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the reef, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the bowline, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the bowline on a bight, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the running bowline, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the wall, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the crown wall, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>diagrams showing, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the double wall and double crown, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a stopper, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a man rope, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the Matthew Walker, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the diamond, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the Turk’s head, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the rope yarn, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the lark’s head, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i></div> - <div class='line in2'><i>See also</i> Bends and Hitches.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Knotting of gut, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Landing-net, a, for fish, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Land-yacht, a, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>-<a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Lark, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>-<a href='#Page_235'>235</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Lark’s head knot, the, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Lee-board, a, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Lines, fish, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Lizards, pens for, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Lock-boxes for camping outfit, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Magnus hitch, the, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Man rope knot, a, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Marling hitch, the, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Marten-trap, a, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Merry-go-round, a, construction of, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>-<a href='#Page_28'>28</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>vane, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Mink, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>stretcher, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Mink-trap, a, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Minnows for fish bait, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Mortar, a snowball, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Muskrat-trap, a, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#i_353'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Nest of pockets, a, for camping outfit, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Oak walking-sticks, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Opossum, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Ovens, camp, how to make, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a>, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a>, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Paddle-wheels: different kinds, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the modern turbine, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a simple paddle-wheel, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a wagon wheel, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a barrel-wheel, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>an undershot-wheel, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'><span class='pageno' id='Page_380'>380</span>a power-wheel, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#i_219'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pens for reptiles, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pet shelters, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for martins, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>-<a href='#Page_32'>32</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for birds, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>-<a href='#Page_34'>34</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for pigeons, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>-<a href='#Page_36'>36</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for dogs, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-<a href='#Page_39'>39</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for guinea-pigs, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for chickens, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>-<a href='#Page_43'>43</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for rabbits, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>-<a href='#Page_45'>45</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for squirrels, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>-<a href='#Page_47'>47</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for chipmunks, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for white rats, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for reptiles, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pergola, a back-yard, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a rustic, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a circular, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pigeon-cotes, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>-<a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pinion-wheel, weather-vane, a, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>-<a href='#Page_62'>62</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a barrel-hoop, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pockets, a nest of, for camping outfit, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Power-boat, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_235'>235</a>-<a href='#Page_238'>238</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Proa, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>-<a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pumping windmill, a, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Punt, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>-<a href='#Page_214'>214</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a house, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pushmobile, a, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>-<a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Putting the hook to gut, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Rabbit, hutches, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>-<a href='#Page_45'>45</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>snares, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>traps, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Raccoon, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Reef knot, the, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Reel, a chest, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a box, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Reels, kite, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>-<a href='#Page_143'>143</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>fish, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Repairing fishing-tackle, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>-<a href='#Page_160'>160</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Reptile pens, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Rocker-coaster, a, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Rods, fishing, elasticity of, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>bait, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>fly, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>-<a href='#Page_156'>156</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>split-bamboo, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>handling of, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>repairing, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Rolling hitch, the, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Rope yarn knot, the, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Running bowline knot, the, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Sable, trap for, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Sail-skating and snowball artillery, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>-<a href='#Page_119'>119</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a skating sail, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>-<a href='#Page_117'>117</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a square-rigged ice-sail, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a snowball mortar, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Sail-wagon, a, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>-<a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Sandwich Island bird kite, the, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Scap-net, how made, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Scoots and scooters, “ice-water boats,” <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>-<a href='#Page_259'>259</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Scow, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Seine for catching live bait, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Self-acting aërial-car, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>-<a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Sharpy, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>-<a href='#Page_218'>218</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a sailing, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>-<a href='#Page_225'>225</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a centre-board, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>-<a href='#Page_228'>228</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Sheepshank hitch, the, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Sheet bend, the, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Shelters for pets, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for martins, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>-<a href='#Page_32'>32</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for birds, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>-<a href='#Page_34'>34</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for pigeons, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>-<a href='#Page_36'>36</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for dogs, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>-<a href='#Page_39'>39</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for guinea-pigs, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for chickens, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>-<a href='#Page_43'>43</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for rabbits, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>-<a href='#Page_45'>45</a>,</div> - <div class='line in2'>for squirrels, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>-<a href='#Page_47'>47</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for chipmunks, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for white rats, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for reptiles, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>-<a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Ship kite, the, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Single-runner coaster, a, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Sinkers, fish, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Skating-sail, a, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>-<a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Skees, Norway, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Skins, animal, how to cure, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>-<a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Skunks, trap for, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Sled-toboggan, a, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Slippery hitch, the, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Snails, for aquariums, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Snakes, pens for, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Snares, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for rabbits, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Snowball mortar, a, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Snow-shoes, the Iroquois, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the Esquimaux, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#i_125'>113</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>oval, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>South Sea Island proa, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_228'>228</a>-<a href='#Page_230'>230</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_381'>381</span>Splices: how made, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>different kinds, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the eye-splice, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a>, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>diagrams showing, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the short splice, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the long splice, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Splicing a fishing-rod, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Square-rigged ice-sail, a, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Squirrel cages, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>-<a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Stone stoves for campers, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Stopper knot, a, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Stoves, stone, for campers, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a>, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Stretchers for drying skins, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a>, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Summer-house, a simple, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>-<a href='#Page_53'>53</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Tables for camp life, <a href='#i_313'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_313'>313</a>, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Tadpoles for aquariums, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Tent, for camping out, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a medium-size, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a>-<a href='#Page_300'>300</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a large camping, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a>-<a href='#Page_303'>303</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a house, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a>-<a href='#Page_307'>307</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the new, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a>-<a href='#Page_310'>310</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Tepees, square, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>ridge-pole, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Timber hitch, the, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>, <a href='#Page_291'>291</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Toadstool tree canopy, a, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Toboggan, an eight-foot, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a sled, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Trap, a, for small fish, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>-<a href='#Page_171'>171</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>for water-turtles, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Traps and trapping, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>-<a href='#Page_349'>349</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>rabbit-traps, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>muskrat-traps, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#i_353'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>mink-traps, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>skunk-traps, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>deadfalls, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>, <a href='#i_357'>345</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>sable-traps, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>martin-traps, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>woodchuck-traps, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>ground-hog-traps, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i></div> - <div class='line in2'><i>See also</i> Snares.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Tree huts and brush-houses, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>-<a href='#Page_366'>366</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a low twin-tree hut, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>-<a href='#Page_356'>356</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a high twin-tree hut, <a href='#i_367'>355</a>-<a href='#Page_358'>358</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a single-tree hut, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a low single-tree hut, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a brush-house, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a>-<a href='#Page_364'>364</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a brush “lean-to,” <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>-<a href='#Page_366'>366</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Truck, a hook-and-ladder, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>-<a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Turk’s head knot, the, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Turtles, water, a trap for, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>“Twitch-up,” a, for rabbits, <a href='#Page_335'>335</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a French, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Two half hitches, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Wagon, a sail, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>-<a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Walker, Matthew, knot, the, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Walking-sticks, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>-<a href='#Page_375'>375</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>how to grow, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>-<a href='#Page_369'>369</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>holly, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>ash, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>oak, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>elm, <i><span lang="la" xml:lang="la">ibid.</span></i>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>from fruit trees, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a>, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>from wild orange, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>method of treatment, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>handles for, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>demand for, <a href='#Page_375'>375</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wall knot, the, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#i_297'>285</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Water in aquariums, to aërate, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Water-turtles, a trap for, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Water-wheels: different kinds, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the modern turbine, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a simple paddle-wheel, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a wagon wheel, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a barrel-wheel, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>an undershot-wheel, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a power-wheel, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#i_219'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Weasel, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Weather-vanes, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>-<a href='#Page_80'>80</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a pinion-wheel, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>-<a href='#Page_62'>62</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a wind-speeder, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>-<a href='#Page_64'>64</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>the arrow, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>wooden, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a wind-pennant, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a basket-ball, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>-<a href='#Page_69'>69</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>a merry-go-round, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>-<a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wheel-race, a, construction of, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wigwams, Indian, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>-<a href='#Page_6'>6</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Windmills, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>-<a href='#Page_80'>80</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>wind turbine, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>-<a href='#Page_73'>73</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>pumping, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>-<a href='#Page_77'>77</a>;</div> - <div class='line in2'>tower, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>-<a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wind-pennant, a, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wind-runner, a, how to make, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a>, <a href='#Page_260'>260</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wind-sails, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wind-speeder, a, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wind turbine, a, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>-<a href='#Page_73'>73</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Woodchucks, how to trap, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wooden weather-vanes, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Wolf, curing the skin of, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Worms for fish bait, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line c004'>Yacht, a land, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>-<a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c012'> - <div><b>THE END</b></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c012' /> -</div> -<div class='transnote'> - -<div> - <h2 id='transnote' class='c021'>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE:</h2> -</div> -<p class='c022'>Silently corrected obvious punctuation errors.</p> - -<p class='c023'>Illustrations moved so as to not split paragraphs.</p> - -<p class='c023'>Unless noted below, spelling and hyphenation are retained as in the original.</p> - -<p class='c023'>Other changes:</p> -<div class='lg-container-l c024'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>• <a href='#Page_IV'>Page IV</a>: Removed page reference from caption</div> - <div class='line'>• <a href='#Page_40'>Page 40</a>: mi way → midway</div> - <div class='line'>• <a href='#Page_53'>Page 53</a>: to have the roof → to have to roof</div> - <div class='line'>• <a href='#Page_68'>Page 68</a>: The frame-work must be → The framework must be</div> - <div class='line'>• <a href='#Page_70'>Page 70</a>: pine or whitewood → pine or white-wood</div> - <div class='line'>• <a href='#Page_128'>Page 128</a>: Fig. 12, AA → Fig. 12, A A</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Harper's Outdoor Book for Boys, by Various - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HARPER'S OUTDOOR BOOK FOR BOYS *** - -***** This file should be named 53705-h.htm or 53705-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/7/0/53705/ - -Produced by Chris Curnow, David Maranhao and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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