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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..41270d0 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #54720 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/54720) diff --git a/old/54720-0.txt b/old/54720-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b66f6b0..0000000 --- a/old/54720-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10281 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Years' Wanderings in the Northern -Provinces of China, by Robert Fortune - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Three Years' Wanderings in the Northern Provinces of China - Including a visit to the tea, silk, and cotton countries; - with an account of the agriculture and horticulture of the - Chinese, new plants, etc. - -Author: Robert Fortune - -Release Date: May 14, 2017 [EBook #54720] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS *** - - - - -Produced by Madeleine Fournier. Images provided by the Internet Archive. - - - - -[Illustration: The City of Foo-chow-foo and Long Bridge] - - - THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS - - IN - - THE NORTHERN PROVINCES - - OF - - CHINA. - - - - - LONDON: - - SPOTTISWOODE and SHAW, - - New-street-Square. - - - * * * * * - - - WANDERINGS IN CHINA - - [Illustration : A CHINESE MARRIAGE PROCESSION.] - - - - THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS - - IN - - THE NORTHERN PROVINCES - - OF - - CHINA, - - - INCLUDING - - A VISIT TO THE TEA, SILK, AND COTTON COUNTRIES: - - - WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE - - AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE OF THE CHINESE, - - NEW PLANTS, ETC. - - - - - BY - - ROBERT FORTUNE, - - BOTANICAL COLLECTOR TO THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF LONDON. - - - With Illustrations. - - - LONDON: - - JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. - - 1847. - - - * * * * * - - - CONTENTS. - - CHAPTER I. - -Introduction.--Erroneous Notions regarding China.--No correct Sources -of Information.--Information gleaned from the Chinese not to be -depended upon.--Imaginative Powers of Authors on China.--Peculiar -Traits in the Character of the Chinese.--Remarks on Agriculture and -Soil.--On Government and Laws.--China has been retrograding for many -Years.--My own Experience. - - CHAPTER II. - -First View of China and the Impressions produced.--Contrasted with -Java.--Land at Hong-kong.--Description of its Harbour.--Town of -Victoria.--Chinese Towns, Stanley and Aberdeen.--Description of -the Island.--Effects of Rains.--"Happy Valley" noticed.--Chinese -mode of "Stopping the Supplies."--Views from the tops of -Mountains.--Climate.--Botany of the Island.--Few Animals -indigenous.--Unhealthiness of the Settlement.--Its Causes.--Character -of the Chinese Population.--Mixed Character of Foreigners.--Remarks on -the Settlement as a Place of Trade. - - CHAPTER III. - -Leave Hong-kong for Amoy.--Opium Station at Namoa.--Liberty the English -enjoy there.--Chinese Population, and their Modes of living.--A new -Admiral makes new Laws.--Cherry Brandy alters his Views.--The Account -which, as in Duty bound, he sends to Peking.--Natural Tunnel through -Chaple Island.--Amoy.--Remarks on its Trade.--Travels in the Country -amongst the People.--The want of a Tail.--The Hills.--Island of -Koo-lung-soo.--Effects of War.--Strange Rocks.--Unhealthy Nature of the -Island.--Botany and Birds.--Visit to one of the Chief Mandarins.--His -House and Grounds. - - CHAPTER IV. - -Leave Amoy.--Gale in the Formosa Channel.--Driven back to -Chimoo.--Chimoo Bay.--Chinese Mode of paying Taxes.--Character of -the Natives.--Journey to the Hills.--Chimoo Pagoda.--Interesting -Scenery.--Attacked and robbed.--My Servant's Opinion of the State of -Matters.--Get back in safety to the Shore.--Novel Mode of crossing the -wet Sands.--New Plants found.--The Bay of Chinchew. - - CHAPTER V. - -Land at Chusan.--Description of the Island.--Town of -Tinghae.--Agriculture.--Staple Productions.--Hemp Plants.--Palm -of which Ropes are made--Trefoil cultivated for Manure.--Oil -Plant.--Flora.--Hills covered with Azaleas, etc.--The Tallow -Tree.--Green Tea Shrub.--Bamboos and other Trees.--Fruits.--Yang Mai -and Kum-quat.--Inhabitants and Shops in Tinghae.--English Names on -Shop Doors.--A new Language.--Mode of classing Foreigners.--Diseases -of the Eye common.--Salt-making.--Method of preparing the Vegetable -Tallow.--Mode of hatching Eggs by artificial Heat. - - CHAPTER VI. - -First Visit to Ning-po.--The Bridge of Boats.--City and -Pagoda.--Medical Missionary.--Temperature--Chinese Mode of -keeping themselves warm.--Charcoal Stoves.--My Lodgings.--Chinese -Gamblers.--Description of Shops.--Silks and Embroidery.--Jade -Stone.--Cotton Printing.--Rope making.--Curiosity Shops -and Contents--"Furniture Street" and Furniture.--Banking -Establishment.--No prospect of Foreign Trade.--Temples, and -Devotion of some of the People.--Dwarfed Trees.--Mode of Dwarfing -explained.--Mandarins' Gardens visited and described.--View from -Northern Hills.--Agriculture.--Native Flora of these Hills.--Graves of -the dead.--Collins exposed. - - CHAPTER VII. - -Remarks on the Chinese Language.--Ice-houses near Ning-po -described.--Their Simplicity and Utility.--Novel Modes of -Fishing.--Fishing Cormorants met with.--Their Actions described.--Two -pairs purchased.--Account of their Food and Habits. - - CHAPTER VIII. - -Shanghae visited at the end of 1843.--My Lodgings.--Prejudices and -Superstitions of the Inhabitants.--The City described.--Shops and -Merchandise.--Food.--An important Station for foreign Trade.--The -Exports of the Country; Teas and Silk easily brought to it.--The -adjacent Country described.--Its Canals--Agriculture.--Tombs of -the Dead.--Trees and Shrubs.--Gardens and Nurseries.--Difficulty -of access to them.--Cunning and Deceit of the Chinese.--A Chinese -Dinner.--Theatricals. - - CHAPTER IX. - -Return to the South of China.--The Canton River described.--Forts -at the Bocca Tigris.--Productions of the Country.--The "Sighing" -Willow.--Cultivation of the Nelumbium.--Boats on the River.--The -Barber's Boat, &c.--Splendour of the Flower Boats.--Appearance of the -River at Festivals.--Order which prevails in this floating City. Houses -built over Water.--Chinese Dexterity in swimming and diving.--Fa-tee -Gardens.--Their Plants.--Old Aching gets a bad Name because his -Seeds do not grow.--He does not deserve it.--Advice to the Buyers of -Seeds.--English and American Public Gardens at Canton.--Chinese New -Year.--Attacked and robbed by the Chinese.--A subsequent Attack made -upon some Officers of the English Government.--Their Letter to Her -Majesty's Consul. - - CHAPTER X. - -Visit to the Ning-po Green Tea District.--Mountain travelling -Chair.--The Budhist Temple of Tein-tung.--Scenery around the -Temple.--Traditional History communicated by the Priest.--The Temple -and its Idols.--Invitation to Dinner with the Priests.--First -Trial with Chopsticks.--Politeness! of the Chinese.--Usual -Dinner Company.--My Bed.--Devotions of the Priests.--Wild Boar -Hunt.--Narrow Escape.--Mode of frightening the Animals from -the Bamboo Plantations.--Mountain Scenery.--Budhist Temple of -Ah-yu-Wang.--Poo-to-san, or the Worshipping Island.--Its Temples -and Idols.--Bronze Gods.--Trees and Shrubs.--Gardens and pet Plants -of the Priests.--Sale of Gods or Josses.--Offerings to the Gods in -Shanghae and Ning-po.--Processions in Honour of the Gods.--Christian -Missions.--Medical Missionary Society.--Roman Catholic. - - CHAPTER XI. - -The Tea-plant of China.--The Species found in the Green and Black -Tea Districts--Best Situation for Tea Plantations.--Remarks on their -Management.--Seasons, and Method, of gathering the Leaves.--Manufacture -of Tea.--Cottages amongst the Tea Hills.--Furnaces and Drying -Pans.--First Application of Heat.--Rolling Process.--Exposure of the -Leaves to the Air.--Second Heating.--Length of Time required.--Two -kinds of Tea.--Difference in the Manufacture of each.--Selecting -and packing Teas.--Appearance and Colour of the Leaf.--Peculiar -Taste of Foreigners for Dyed Teas.--Good Sense of the Chinese.--Tea -Merchants.--Their Visits to the Tea Hills.--Mode of buying from the -small Growers.--Black Tea District in Fokien.--Teas divided into two -Kinds.--Peculiar Method of preparing each.--Cause of their difference -in Colour.--Flowers used in scenting the finer Teas.--Sir John Francis -Davis's Remarks on different kinds of Teas sold at Canton. - - CHAPTER XII. - -Chusan Archipelago.--Storm in a small Boat.--Nearly upset.--Kin-tang, -or Silver Island.--Its Inhabitants.--Their Surprise on seeing a -Foreigner.--Yang-tse-kiang River.--Its numerous Sand Banks.--Our -Schooner aground.--Novel Method of getting Assistance from the -Chinese.--Village of Woo-sung.--Opium Station.--Remarks on the Opium -Trade.--Its Effects upon the Chinese. - - CHAPTER XIII. - -Shanghae in 1844.--Its Gardens and Plants.--Start for the Hills in -the Interior.--Canals and Bridges.--Adventure with my Pony.--The -"Tein-ching," or Blue Dye, found.--Hills and their Vegetation -described.--The Surprise of the Natives on seeing a Foreigner.--Their -Curiosity, and Honesty!--Plants sent to England.--Another Journey -into the Interior.--Some large Northern Cities noticed.--A midnight -Visit from Thieves.--The far-famed City of Soo-chow-foo visited.--A -Description of it.--New Plants found.--Central Position of Soo-chow as -a Place of Trade.--Baths for the Million.--Return to Shanghae. - - CHAPTER XIV. - -Chinese Cotton Cultivation.--Yellow Cotton.--District -where it grows.--Cotton Country described.--Soil.--Manure, -and Mode of Application.--Preceding Crops.--Time of -sowing.--Method.--Rains.--Summer Cultivation.--Early Rain -advantageous.--Time of reaping and gathering. Cotton -Farmers and their Families.--Drying and cleaning Process -described.--Marketing.--Independence of the Seller.--Crowded Streets -in Shanghae during the Cotton Season.--Warehouses and Packing--Home -Consumption.--Stalks used for Fuel. - - CHAPTER XV. - -Climate of China.--Summer and Winter.--Temperature of Hong-kong--of -Shanghae.--Monsoons.--Typhoons.--Signs of their Approach.--Description -of a Typhoon witnessed by the Author.--Effect produced upon -Vegetation.--Rains.--Wet and dry Seasons.--Meteorological Table. - - CHAPTER XVI. - -Chinese Agriculture.--Exaggerated Statements regarding its -Advancement.--Soil of the Hills.--Tea Land--Soil of the Plains.--Summer -Crops.--Rice and its Cultivation.--Chinese Plough and Harrow.--Number -of Crops produced.--Method of obtaining two Crops of Rice in Summer -in the Province of Chekiang.--Rice Harvest.--Terrace Cultivation -described.--The Tein-ching Plant, from which the Northern Indigo is -obtained.--Summer Hill Crops.--Cultivation of sweet Potatoes.--Earth -Nuts.--Winter Crops.--Celebrated Shan-tung Cabbage.--Oil Plant.--Wheat, -Barley, etc.--Ripening of Winter Crops.--Manures.--Two Plants -cultivated for this Purpose.--Their Cultivation and Mode of -Application.--A Manure for mixing with Seeds.--Its Utility.--Other -Manures in common use.--Manure Tanks.--Night Soil and Urine.--Mode of -Application.--Succession anti Rotation of Crops. - - CHAPTER XVII. - -Return to Chusan.--Its supposed Unhealthiness.--Mortality amongst the -Queen's Troops when first stationed there.--Subsequent Salubrity.--Its -Advantages over Hong-kong as a British Settlement.--New Plants found on -the Island.--Ning-po.--Gardens of the Mandarins.--Manners of Chinese -Ladies.--Sail for Hong-kong.--Tombs of the Chinese.--Situations -supposed to be the best.--Soothsayers employed.--Their Methods of -working on the Minds of the People.--Mr. Lay consulted as to the best -Site for a Grave.--Inscriptions on the Tombs.--Periodical Visits to -them by Relatives.--Different Modes of Interment.--Coffins exposed in -the Fields.--Kept in Houses.--Tombs near Sung-kiang-foo.--Favourite -Flowers for planting on the Graves. - - CHAPTER XVIII. - -Plants shipped for England.--Sail for Manila.--Natural -Productions and Exports--Passport Annoyances.--The Interior of -Luzon.--Its Laguna.--Early Morning in the Philippines.--Valuable -Plants procured.--The "Queen of Orchids."--Natural Habits of -Air-Plants.--Lawless Banditti of the Interior.--A false Alarm.--Monkeys -more harmless than Men.--A Night at Dolores with the Padre.--Volcanoes -in the Philippines.--General Appearance of the Country.--Leeches -not very agreeable Companions.--Return to Manila and ship Plants -for England.--Sail for the north of China.--"A Man overboard."--His -Recovery by a gallant Boat's Crew.--Arrive in the North. - - CHAPTER XIX. - -Spring in the north of China.--New Flowers.--Journey through the -Country.--Motley Group of Fellow Passengers.--A Morning Scene in -a Chinese Junk.--Tartar City of Chapoo.--Shops and Trade.--Crowds -of People.--A Visit to the Mandarins.--A free Passage onward -offered.--Their Object in this.--Means taken to thwart them.--Leave -Chapoo for Shanghae.--Country and Town of Ping-hoo.--Silk Districts -visited.--Cultivation of the Mulberry.--Management of the -Silk-worm.--Arrival at Shanghae.--Consul's Letter enclosing one from -the Taoutae, or Head Mandarin.--A most satisfactory Reply! - - CHAPTER XX. - -Sail for Foo-chow-foo on the River Min.--Novel Mode of engaging -a Pilot.--Entrance to the River.--Scenery on its Banks.--Bridge -of Foo-chow-foo.--Chinese Chairmen.--Insults received from the -Natives.--City and Suburbs.--Native Trade.--Fishing Cormorants.--Bank -Notes.--Character of the Natives.--The Ladies and their fondness for -Flowers.--Population.--Remarks on Foo-chow-foo as a Place of foreign -Trade.--Government Spies.--Gardens and Nurseries.--Deceit of the -Mandarins.--Leave Foo-chow-foo for the Tea Hills.--Mountain Scenery -described.--Black Tea Districts.--Flora of the Hills.--Agriculture of -the District.--Native Fruit.--Climate and Temperature. - - CHAPTER XXI. - -Engage a Passage in a Junk.--Leave the District of the Min.--An -Attack of Fever.--Religious Ceremonies on Board the Junk.--Attacked -by Pirates.--Scene on Board.--Cowardice of the Chinese.--Pirates -beat off.--Gratitude of the Crew.--A safe Anchorage!--Another Fleet -of Pirates.--Attack, and Results.--Arrive at Chusan.--Ingratitude of -the Crew.--Mode of making them keep their Word.--Kindness of foreign -Residents at Shanghae.--Large Peaches.--Collections paeked.--Leave the -north of China.--Sail for England.--Arrival in the Thames.--Conclusion. - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - 1. The City of Foo-chow-foo and Long Bridge - 2. Marriage Procession - 3. Map - 4. City of Ningpo--Bridge of Boats - 5. Old Pagoda in Ningpo - 6. Ice Houses - 7. River at Shanghae - 8. Mountain Chair - 9. Pans for drying the Tea - 10. Bamboo Table for rolling Tea - 11. Opium Pipe - 12. Water-wheel on the Island of Chusan - 13. Chusan Tombs - 14. Tomb of a Mandarin's Wife - 15. Pagoda on the River Min - 16. Anemone on the Tombs - 17. Chinese Funeral and Family Tomb - - - -[Illustration: Map to illustrate Fortune's wanderings in China] - - - * * * * * - - - THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS - - IN - - CHINA. - - - - CHAPTER I. - -INTRODUCTION.--ERRONEOUS NOTIONS REGARDING CHINA.--NO CORRECT SOURCES -OF INFORMATION.--INFORMATION GLEANED FROM THE CHINESE NOT TO BE -DEPENDED UPON.--IMAGINATIVE POWERS OF AUTHORS ON CHINA.--PECULIAR -TRAITS IN THE CHARACTER OF THE CHINESE.--REMARKS ON AGRICULTURE AND -SOIL.--ON GOVERNMENT AND LAWS.--CHINA HAS BEEN RETROGRADING FOR MANY -YEARS.--MY OWN EXPERIENCE. - - -When the news of the peace with China first reached England, in the -autumn of 1842, I obtained the appointment of Botanical Collector -to the Horticultural Society of London, and proceeded to China in -that capacity early in the spring of the following year. In laying -my travels and their results before the public, I beg to say at the -commencement, that I have no intention of writing or "making" a "book -on China." By this I mean such books as have often been issued from the -press, professing to give a faithful and true account of the history -of the Chinese from the earliest ages, and their earliest kings down -to Taouk-wang and the present day, of the arts, sciences, religion and -laws, and the social and moral condition of the people; whose authors, -with true Chinese "_Oula Custom_," stand manfully by what the writers -of other days have told them; and faithfully hand down to posterity, -by the aid of the scissors and the pen, all the exaggerations and -absurdities which have ever been written on China and the Chinese. - -This celebrated country has been long looked upon as a kind of -fairy-land by the nations of the Western world. Its position on the -globe is so remote that few--at least informer days--had an opportunity -of seeing and judging for themselves; and besides, those few were -confined within the most narrow limits at Canton and Macao, the very -outskirts of the kingdom, and far removed from the central parts or the -seat of the government. Even the Embassies of Lord Macartney and Lord -Amherst, although they went as far as the capital, were so fettered and -watched by the jealous Chinese that they saw little more than their -friends who remained at Canton. Under these circumstances much that -was gleaned from the Chinese themselves relating to their country, -was of the most exaggerated description, if not entirely fabulous. -They, from the highest Mandarin down to the meanest beggar, are filled -with the most conceited notions of their own importance and power; -and fancy that no people however civilised, and no country however -powerful, are for one moment to be compared with them. As an instance -of this I may mention the following:--When the first steamer visited -the coast of China, the Chinese in Canton and Macao did not exhibit the -least surprise, but merely said "_Have got plenty, all same, inside,_" -meaning that such things were quite common in the interior of their -country. Moreover, they cannot appreciate statistical inquiries; but -always fancy that we have some secret motive for making them; or that -the subject cannot be of the slightest importance, either to ourselves -or others, and consequently do not trouble themselves about obtaining -correct information. - -I have been often much annoyed with this propensity of theirs during -my travels in the country; and have had frequently to travel many a -weary mile, merely because they did not think it worth their while to -give me correct information. In fact, latterly I made a practice of -disbelieving every thing they told me, until I had an opportunity of -seeing and judging for myself. - -Shut out from the country, and having no means of getting information -on which we could depend (for independent of Chinese statements, -the accounts written by the Jesuits were in many instances grossly -exaggerated), it is not to be wondered at if the works in our language -were more remarkable for the exhibition of the imaginative power of -their authors, than for facts concerning China and the Chinese. We were -in the position of little children who gaze with admiration and wonder -at a penny peep-show in a fair or market-place at home.--We looked -with magnifying eyes on every thing Chinese; and fancied, for the time -at least, that what we saw was certainly real. But the same children -who look with wonder upon the scenes of Trafalgar and Waterloo, when -the curtain falls, and their penny-worth of sights has passed by, find -that, instead of being amongst those striking scenes which have just -passed in review before their eyes, they are only, after all, in the -market-place of their native town. So it is with "children of a larger -growth." This mystery served the purpose of the Chinese so long as it -lasted; and although we perhaps did not give them credit for all to -which they pretended, at least we gave them much more than they really -deserved. - -Viewing the subject in this light we have little difficulty in -accounting for the false colouring which has been given to every -picture drawn by authors who have written on this country, and who have -extolled to the skies her perfection in the arts, in agriculture, in -horticulture, the fertility of the soil, the industry of the people, -and the excellence of her government and laws. But the curtain which -had been drawn around the celestial country for ages, has now been rent -asunder; and instead of viewing an enchanted fairy-land, we find, after -all, that China is just like other countries. Doubtless the Chinese -were in that half-civilised state in which they are now, at a very -early period, and when the now polished nations of the West were yet -rude savages. It is long since they discovered the art of making the -beautiful porcelain, lacquer-ware, and silks, which have for centuries -been so much admired in Europe; but these very facts--their civilised -condition, their advancement in the arts, and even their discovering -a magnetic power in nature, which they could convert into a compass -for the purpose of navigation--instead of telling in their favour as -an active and intelligent people, do the very reverse when we consider -what they might have been now and what they really are. - -A great proportion of the northern Chinese seem to be in a sleepy -or dreaming state, from which it is difficult to awake them. When a -foreigner at any of the northern ports goes into a shop, the whole -place inside and out is immediately crowded with Chinese, who gaze -at him with a sort of stupid dreaming eye; and it is difficult to -say whether they really see him or not, or whether they have been -drawn thereby some strange mesmeric influence over which they have no -control: and I am quite sure that, were it possible for the stranger to -slip out of his clothes and leave a block standing in his place, these -Chinese would still continue to gaze on, and never know the difference. -The conduct of the Chinese peasants during the war was very remarkable -in this respect. I have been told by some of the military officers, -that, when the whole fleet of sailing vessels and steamers went up -the Yang-tse-Kiang in 1842, many of the agricultural labourers on the -banks of the river used to hold up their heads for a few seconds, and -look with a kind of stupid gaze upon our noble fleet; and then quietly -resume their labours, as if the thing was only an every day occurrence, -and they had seen it a thousand times before. When the "Medusa" -steamer went up the Shanghae river for several miles above the city, -the river became so narrow that they had some difficulty in finding a -place wide enough to allow the steamer to come round. A peasant was -standing on the bank smoking his pipe, and looking on with the most -perfect unconcern when, the helm being put down, the little vessel in -coming round shot right across the stream, and came in contact with -the bank, just under the very feet of the Chinaman. The shock was of -course considerable, and the man who all at once seemed to awake from a -trance, set off in the utmost terror, like an arrow, across the fields, -without once looking behind him; and, as Captain Hewitt who related the -story, remarked, for any thing he knew, the man was running until this -day! Many of the Chinese are of course very different characters from -those I have just described; and are as active men as you find in any -part of the world: but the above are striking features in the character -of the inhabitants of the northern parts of the country which I have -had an opportunity of visiting. - -In the knowledge and practice of agriculture, although the Chinese may -be in advance of other Eastern nations, they are not for a moment to be -compared with the civilised nations of the West. Perhaps more nonsense -has been written upon this subject than upon any other connected with -China; and we can only account for it by supposing the writers to -have been entirely unacquainted with the subject, and led away by the -fancies and prejudices above alluded to. How ridiculous, for example, -for them to speak in such glowing terms of the fertility of the land, -when we bear in mind that they judged from what they saw at Canton -and Macao! Had they seen the glorious scenery amongst the mountains -at Tein-tung near Ning-po, or the rich plain of Shanghae, then indeed -they might have written in the most glowing terms of the fertility of -Chinese soil; but what terms could they have found to describe it, -after giving the barren soil of the south such a character? - -Although it is not my intention to devote any part of these pages to -the history and government of the Chinese, I must still notice, in -passing, what has been so often said about the perfection of their -government and laws. And here, too, I must differ from those who have -such high notions of the Chinese in these respects. I think no country -can be well governed where the government is powerless, and has not -the means of punishing those who break the laws. China is very weak -in this respect, compared with European nations, and the only thing -which keeps the country together is the quiet and inoffensive character -of the people. Everybody, who has travelled in China, knows that, -wherever the natives are enterprising and bold, they set the government -at defiance whenever it suits their purpose to do so. For example, -what can the government do if the natives on the coast of Fokien,--a -bold and lawless race, choose to disobey its mandates?--Positively -nothing. Even further north, where the Mandarins are more powerful--in -Shanghae for example--the Chinchew men, as they are called, often -fight pitched battles with fire-arms, in the streets and in open day; -and the Mandarins, with all their soldiers at their backs, dare not -to interfere. Surely no government worth any thing would tolerate -this state of things. The system of apprehension and punishment is so -curious, and so characteristic of the Chinese government, that I must -not omit to mention it. The belligerents are allowed to fight as long -and as fiercely as they choose, and the soldiers never interfere: but -when the weakest side is over-powered, and probably a number of lives -lost in the affray, they come down in great force and seize and carry -off to punishment the most defenceless: and, in circumstances of this -kind, they are not over particular about seizing the most riotous, or -those most implicated in the disturbances, provided those they seize -are the weakest and least able to resist. Such conduct in the Chinese -government I have been an eye-witness to, again and again, in the north -of China; more particularly in Shanghae. What should we think if such a -state of things existed in England? and yet this is a specimen of the -government which has been considered so perfect, and which has been so -highly eulogised. - -There can be no doubt that the Chinese empire arrived at its highest -state of perfection many years ago; and since then it has rather been -retrograding than advancing. Many of the northern cities, evidently -once in the most flourishing condition, are now in a state of decay, -or in ruins; the pagodas which crown the distant hills, are crumbling -to pieces, and apparently are seldom repaired; the spacious temples -are no longer as they used to be in former days; even the celebrated -temples on Pootoo-San (an island near Chusan) to which, as to Jerusalem -of old, the natives come from afar to worship, show all the signs -of having seen better days. It is very true that these are heathen -temples, and the good in every land will hail with delight the day when -these shall give way to others which shall be erected to the true God: -but nevertheless such is the fact, that these places are not supported -as they used to be: and from this I conclude that the Chinese, as a -nation, are retrograding rather than advancing. - -Although I have considered it necessary to expose in this manner the -prejudiced opinions which have been from time to time given out to -the world by authors on China, I am far from having any prejudice -against the Chinese people. On the contrary, in many respects they -stand high in my estimation. During the last three years I have been -continually among them; wandering over and among their hills, dining in -their houses, and sleeping in their temples: and from this experience -I do not hesitate in pronouncing them a very different race from -what they are generally supposed to be. The natives of the southern -towns, and all along the coast, at least as far north as Chekiang, -richly deserve the bad character which every one gives them; being -remarkable for their hatred to foreigners and conceited notions of -their own importance, besides abounding in characters of the very -worst description, who are nothing less than thieves and pirates. -But the character of the Chinese as a nation must not suffer from a -partial view of this kind; for it must be recollected that, in every -country, the worst and most lawless characters are amongst those who -inhabit sea-port towns, and who come in contact with natives of other -countries: and unfortunately we must confess that European nations -have contributed their share to make these people what they really -are. In the north of China, and more particularly inland, the natives -are entirely different. There are doubtless bad characters and thieves -amongst them too: but generally the traveller is not exposed to insult; -and the natives are quiet, civil, and obliging. And although they are -not entitled to the credit of being equal to, much less in advance of -the nations of the West in science, in the arts, in government, or in -laws; yet they are certainly considerably in advance of the Hindoos, -Malays, and other nations who inhabit the central and western portions -of Asia. Besides, the manners and customs of the people, and the -strange formation of the country, are indeed striking when viewed by -the stranger's eye;--the pagodas, like monuments to departed greatness, -towering on the hills; the strange dresses and long tails of the men, -and the small deformed feet of the women. Added to which, this is the -land of tea,--a beverage which in the eyes of Englishmen is enough -to immortalise any country, had it nothing else besides. But I must -again assert, that the great secret of the popularity of China, and -the Chinese people, lies in the manner in which foreigners allowed -themselves to be treated in former days, and in the mystery with which -the Chinese, from principle, enveloped every thing relating to their -country. - - - - CHAP. II. - -FIRST VIEW OF CHINA AND THE IMPRESSIONS PRODUCED.--CONTRASTED WITH -JAVA.--LAND AT HONG-KONG.--DESCRIPTION OF ITS HARBOUR.--TOWN OF -VICTORIA.--CHINESE TOWNS, STANLEY AND ABERDEEN.--DESCRIPTION OF -THE ISLAND.--EFFECTS OF RAINS.--"HAPPY VALLEY" NOTICED.--CHINESE -MODE OF "STOPPING THE SUPPLIES."--VIEWS FROM THE TOPS OF -MOUNTAINS.--CLIMATE.--BOTANY OF THE ISLAND--FEW ANIMALS -INDIGENOUS.--UNHEALTHINESS OF THE SETTLEMENT--ITS CAUSES.--CHARACTER OF -THE CHINESE POPULATION.--MIXED CHARACTER OF FOREIGNERS.--REMARKS ON THE -SETTLEMENT AS A PLACE OF TRADE. - - -On the sixth of July, 1843, after a passage of four months from -England, I had the first view of the shores of China: and although I -had often heard of the bare and unproductive hills of this celebrated -country, I certainly was not prepared to find them so barren as they -really are. Viewed from the sea, they have everywhere a scorched -appearance, with rocks of granite and red clay showing all over -their surface: the trees are few, and stunted in their growth, being -perfectly useless for any thing but fire-wood, the purpose to which -they are generally applied in this part of the country. A kind of -fir-tree (_Pinus sinensis_) seems to struggle hard for existence, and -is found in great quantities all over the hill sides; but, what with -the barren nature of the soil, and the Chinese practice of lopping -off its branches for fuel, it never attains any size, but is merely -a stunted bush. Was this, then, the "flowery land," the land of -camellias, azaleas, and roses, of which I had heard so much in England? -What a contrast betwixt this scenery and the hills and valleys of Java, -where I had been only a few days before! There, from the sea-shore -to the tops of the highest hills, the whole is clothed with the most -luxuriant vegetation; and when the sun rises in the morning, or when -his last rays scatter themselves over the lovely landscape, deepening -the tints of the foliage of all hues, the scene presented to the view -may well be called grand and sublime. But, as the poet sings,-- - - "'Tis the land of the East, the clime of the sun." - -After a few hours' pleasant sailing amongst the islands, we at last -reached the beautiful bay of Hong-kong, and anchored opposite to -the new town of Victoria. Hong-kong bay is one of the finest which -I have ever seen: it is eight or ten miles in length, and irregular -in breadth; in some places two, and in others six miles wide, having -excellent anchorage all over it, and perfectly free from hidden -dangers. It is completely sheltered by the mountains of Hong-kong on -the south, and by those of the main land of China on the opposite -shore; land-locked, in fact, on all sides; so that the shipping can -ride out the heaviest gales with perfect safety. - -The new town of Victoria is situated on the north side of the island, -along the shores of this splendid bay, with the mountain chain rising -precipitously and majestically behind it. When viewed from the sea -in 1843, it had a curious and irregular appearance; but as the plan -of the town becomes more developed, and better houses are built, it -will really be a very pretty little place. When I left China, at the -end of December, 1845, it had made most rapid progress; new houses -and even new streets had risen, as if by magic. Some noble government -buildings were nearly completed, to be used as barracks for the -soldiers; excellent and substantial houses were erected, or in the -course of erection, for the merchants; and a large Chinese town had -been built to the westward, for the principal part of the Chinese -population. A beautiful road, called the Queen's Road, has been formed -along the shore for several miles; and this was lined with excellent -houses, and many very good shops. Many of the Chinese shops are little -inferior to those in Canton, and certainly equal to what used to be in -Macao. In fact, a very large proportion of the Macao shopkeepers have -removed their establishments to Hong-kong; the former place being now -useless for the purpose of trade since the English left it. The bazaar -or market is also a most excellent one. Here we find all the natural -productions of China, which are brought regularly from the main land; -such as the fruits and vegetables indigenous to the country; fowls, -ducks, teal, quails, and pheasants; meat of all kinds; and in fact -every luxury which the natives or foreigners can possibly require. -Besides these, English potatoes, green peas, and several other kinds of -foreign vegetables are plentiful at almost all seasons of the year. - -The only other Chinese towns on the island of any note besides the new -one just noticed, are on the south side, and used to be called Little -Hong-kong and Chuckehew; their names have been changed lately by the -governor, Sir J. Davis, into _Stanley_ and _Aberdeen_. They are merely -fishing-towns; but the government always keeps up a military station at -the latter, which renders it of some importance. - -Hong-kong is one of the largest islands near the mouth of the Canton -river. It is about eight miles from east to west, and the widest part -of it is not more than six miles; but it is very irregular, some parts -being only three miles in breadth, and the land jutting out here and -there, forming a succession of headlands and bays. Imagine, then, an -island considerably longer than it is broad, perfectly mountainous, -and sloping in a rugged manner to the water's edge, having here and -there deep ravines almost at equal distances along the coast, which -extend from the tops of the mountains down to the sea, deepening and -widening in their course. There are immense blocks of granite in these -ravines, which have either been bared by the rapid currents of water -in its descent during the rains, or which have tumbled into them from -the sides of the mountains at some former period of time. The water -in these ravines is abundant and excellent; and hence the poetical -name which the Chinese have given our island. _Hong-kong_, or more -properly _Heang-Keang_, the "_Island of fragrant streams_." During -the wet season--for it rains in torrents then--these little streams -swell with the augmentation of fresh water; and rush down from the -mountains with a velocity which sweeps every thing before them. In -May, 1845, one of these storms of thunder and rain visited Victoria; -and the effects produced by it were perfectly astonishing; houses were -undermined, roads made at a great expense only a few months before, -were swept away; drains were burst open; and many of the bridges and -other public works rendered perfectly useless. "The Hong-kong Register" -thus notices the storm to which I allude:--"The damage was very great, -both to the recently-formed roads and to many buildings in the course -of erection; and had the violence of the rain continued an hour or two -longer, many houses must have been undermined and destroyed. As it -was, much individual inconvenience has been sustained. About 5 o'clock -the whole of Queen's Road, from the entrance to the large bazaar to -the market-place, was completely flooded, to the depth of from two -to four feet. All the streets leading upwards to the hill served as -feeders to this lake. In Peel Street particularly, the torrent rushed -along, bearing every thing before it, and the street still resembles -a dried up water-course, covered with stones and wrecks of buildings. -The passages from the Queen's Road to the sea were all full; the one -leading through Chunam's Hong for hours presented the appearance of -a rapid river, and many of the houses on each side were only saved -from the flood by mud walls hastily raised. About 6 o'clock the rain -moderated, but for some time after the road was quite impassable. A -Coolie, attempting to ford the stream rushing down D'Aguilar Street, -was borne off his feet, but saved himself by catching hold of the frame -of a mat-shed. The drain lately formed could not carry off the water, -which committed great devastation, flooding a new house in its vicinity -to the depth of nearly three feet, and destroying some new walls. All -the open drains in the upper streets have suffered, many are entirely -destroyed, leaving scarcely a trace of the street. A stream from a -distant water-course flowed along the road above the bungalow, occupied -by the attorney-general, and descending with great fury upon the roof -of one of his out-offices, carried away a great part of it. In many -places the Queen's Road has been covered with soil, sand, &c., to the -depth of more than two feet, and nearly all the cross drains are choked -up. The bridge at the Commissariat has been carried away, and that in -the Wong-nai-chung has also disappeared. Several lives were lost by -the fall of a house in which some Chinese resided; and it is said the -stream at Pokfowlum burst upon a mat hut in which were a number of -Coolies, employed upon the new road; three saved themselves in a tree, -but many more are missing, and are supposed to have been carried out to -sea." - -There is very little flat ground on the Island capable of being brought -under cultivation; indeed the only tract of any extent is the "Wang-Nai -Chung," or, as the English call it, the "happy Valley," about two miles -east from the town; and even that is not more than twenty or thirty -acres in extent. There are several other small plots of ground near -the bottom of the hills, and some few terraced patches amongst them, -but the whole is of very trifling extent. In former times the Chinese -used to cultivate crops of rice and vegetables in the Wang-Nai-Chung -Valley, but the place proved to be very unhealthy; and the Government, -supposing that the malaria might proceed from the water necessary to -bring the crops to maturity, prohibited the natives from cultivating -them, and set about draining the land. From this description it will be -seen that our settlement on this Island is entirely dependent on the -dominions of his Celestial Majesty for supplies, which he, of course, -can cut off when he pleases. Shortly after the present Governor, Sir -John Francis Davis, took the helm of affairs in China, he, with the -advice of the Legislative Council of Hong-kong, passed a law for -registering all the inhabitants of the island, English and Chinese, -the latter of course being under the rule of Her Britannic Majesty's -representative. The Chinese population, ever jealous of foreigners, -fancied there was more in this than met the eye, and that it was done -for the purpose of _squeezing_ them, and they actually rebelled against -the decree. A meeting of all the Compradores and other great men took -place, and one of the results was, that the "supplies" were stopped. -For several days every thing stood still, the Coolies would not work, -the boats would not bring provisions, in fact, the Chinese were in -a fair way of starving the "Legislative Council of Hong-kong" into -making better laws; and they succeeded at last in making them alter the -celebrated Registration Act into one more agreeable to their feelings. - -From the tops of the mountains the view is grand and imposing in the -extreme; mountain is seen rising above mountain, rugged, barren and -wild--the elevation of the highest being nearly two thousand feet--the -sea as far as the eye can reach is studded with islands of the same -character as Hong-kong; on one side our beautiful bay lies beneath us -crowded with shipping and boats, and on the other, the far extending -waters of the China sea. - -The climate of Hong-kong is far from being agreeable, and up to the -present time, has proved very unhealthy, both to Europeans and to the -native Chinese. During the months of July and August--the hottest -in the year--the maximum heat shown by my thermometer was 94° Fahr. -and the minimum in the same time was 80°. The difference between the -heat of day and night is generally about 10 degrees. In winter the -thermometer sometimes sinks as low as the freezing point, but this is a -rare occurrence. Even in the midst of winter, when the sun shines, it -is scarcely possible to walk out without the shelter of an umbrella, -and if any one has the hardihood to attempt it, he invariably suffers -for his folly. The air is so dry that one can scarcely breathe, and -there is no shade to break the force of the almost vertical rays of the -sun. At other times in winter, the wind blows cold and cutting from the -north, and fires are necessary in the houses; indeed, at all seasons -the climate is liable to sudden changes of temperature. - -The botany of the island possesses a considerable degree of interest, -at least would have done so some years ago, when the plants indigenous -to it were less known than they now are. By far the most beautiful -plants met with on the low ground, are the different species of -_LagerstrÅ“mia_. There are two or three varieties, having red, white, -and purple flowers, and in the summer months when they are in bloom, -they are quite the hawthorns of China; surpassing in their gorgeous -flowers even that beautiful family. I have generally met with them in -a wild state, very near the sea shore. A little higher up we find the -beautiful _Ixora coccinea_ flowering in profusion in the clefts of -the rocks, and its scarlet heads of bloom under the Hong-kong sun are -of the most dazzling brightness. The ravines are crowded with ferns -and creeping shrubs of different kinds, not however of much interest -to the lover of ornamental flowering plants. Here, however, under the -ever-dripping rocks, we find the beautiful _Chirita sinensis_, a plant -with elegant foxglove lilac flowers, which I sent to the Horticultural -Society soon after I arrived in China, and which is now to be found in -many of the gardens of England. - -It is a curious fact connected with the vegetation of Hong-kong, that -all the most ornamental flowering plants are found high up on the -mountains, from a thousand to two thousand feet above the level of the -sea. In the northern parts of China, such as Chusan and the mountainous -country near Ning-po, the same description of plants are indigenous -to less elevated situations, and there, on the tops of the hills, we -find little else than specks of grass, wild roses and violets, thus -showing how plants accommodate themselves to the climate, by choosing -a higher or lower altitude as the climate in which they are placed may -be hot or cold. All the beautiful plants indigenous to Hong-kong, with -the exceptions already pointed out, grow and flourish high up amongst -the hills. Several species of _Azalea_, a plant now so well known in -England, are found covering the sides of the hills at least fifteen -hundred feet above the level of the sea, and they are not met with at -all at a low elevation on the same hills. The _Polyspora axillaris_ -grows in the same situations, and another plant, perhaps the most -beautiful of all; I mean the _Enkianthus reticulatus_. This plant is -very highly prized by the Chinese. It flowers in February and March, -about the time of their new year, and they then bring the branches down -from the hills in great quantities for the decoration of their houses. -The flowers are unexpanded when they are gathered, but by being placed -in water, they very soon bloom in the houses, and remain for more than -a fortnight as fresh and beautiful as if they had been taken up with -their roots in the most careful manner. Even the more beautiful amongst -the native Orchids are only found at a considerable elevation. The tops -of the highest hills are covered in the summer and autumn months with -the purple _Arundina sinensis_, and the yellow _Spathoglottis Fortuni_. - -The trees on the island are few, and generally in a stunted condition. -The fir (_Pinus sinensis_) is common here as it is all along the -coast of China; _Cunninghamia sinensis_ is rare on Hong-kong, -although frequently met with on the main land; the tallow-tree is -also indigenous, but no use is made of its fruit. Many kinds of the -fig tribe are common, and one, the _Ficus nitida_, a kind of banyan, -sometimes forms a very ornamental tree. Several species of bamboo seem -to grow very well, and in the situations where they are found are -strikingly ornamental. - -The only trees to the cultivation of which the Chinese pay any -attention, are the fruit bearing kinds; and in some places there are -very fair orchards containing the Mango, Leechee, Longan, Wangpee, -Orange, Citrons, and Pumelows. - -Although there are many more species of shrubs and trees indigenous -to Hong-kong, yet after all the island has a barren and desolate -appearance. The nature of the soil will always be a great barrier in -the way of any improvement in this state of things; but even this, to -a certain extent at least, may be overcome by the liberality of the -Government, or even by the energy and taste of private individuals, -and Hong-kong or Victoria may become in a few years very different -from what it now is. We have only to look at what has been done as an -earnest of what may follow. Trees lately planted are already growing -beautifully in the grounds of Messrs. Dents, the Honourable Major -Caine, Messrs. Jardine, and Messrs. Matheson, and at Mr. Stewart's, a -considerable way up the hill. - -The island is not rich in indigenous animals. I have frequently seen -wild goats feeding in the most inaccessible parts of the rocky crags; -there are also deer and foxes, but these are extremely rare. The only -animals of the feathered tribe one meets with are, two or three species -of king-fishers, some small singing birds and a few wood-pigeons -where there are any trees or bushes to shelter them. The main land -is much better stocked with birds. From thence the natives bring to -the market large quantities of pheasants, partridges, quail, ducks, -teal, and sometimes woodcocks and snipes. These birds are seldom seen -wild amongst the mountains of Hong-kong, and when they are, they have -only accidentally strayed from the main land. Luckily for the poor -Chinese, their waters are much more productive than the land, and an -inconceivable variety of fish is daily brought to the markets, and -forms, with rice, the staple article of their food. - -There are numerous fine quarries of granite along the coast, from which -the stone has been obtained for the new town of Victoria. Much of the -granite in different parts of the island is in a state of decay, and -some ingenious persons have fancied that to this may be ascribed the -prevalence of that malignant disease called the "Hong-kong fever," -which has baffled medical skill, and carried hundreds to the tomb. - -The autumnal months, August, September, and October, are most -unhealthy. In 1843, when I first visited the island, it was in a -lamentable condition. A place called the "West Point," where some -barracks stood, and which was to all appearance as healthy as any -other, proved fatal to the greater part of a detachment of our troops -quartered there. The mortality was such, that Lord Saltoun, then -commander-in-chief, was obliged to remove the wretched remnant, and -ordered the barracks to be pulled down.[1] The "Wang-nai-chung," that -"_happy_ Valley" already noticed, was another most unhealthy spot. One -of my fellow-passengers, Mr. Dyer, and his partner, who came out with -high hopes of succeeding in business under the new regulations, went to -live in this place, where, in a few days, they were seized with fever, -and in a few more they had both gone to "that undiscovered country -from whose bourn no traveller returns." In other parts of the island, -which were at that time considered more healthy, fever prevailed to a -great extent. Among those who were carried off, and whose death caused -the greatest regret, were Major Pottinger and the Honourable J. R. -Morrison, Chinese interpreter, son of the celebrated Dr. Morrison. -The former had been only out for a few days, and was on the point of -returning home with despatches for the Government. Many other instances -might be mentioned; but these are sufficient to show the deplorable -condition of our new settlement at this time; and so malignant and -fatal was this disease, that few who were seized ever recovered. The -only advice the doctors gave, was at once to leave the island and fly -to Macao. - -The south side of Hong-kong was at this time considered much more -healthy than the north, where the new town of Victoria was being built. -The prevailing opinion amongst the inhabitants then was that the town -ought to have been placed on the south side, which had the advantage -of being exposed to the refreshing breeze of the south-west monsoon, -from which the north was in a great measure shut out by the range of -mountains. This theory, however, was soon disproved, for latterly the -troops stationed at Aberdeen, on the south side, have suffered more -than those in Victoria. - -My own observation has led me to the following conclusions:--Much of -the sickness and mortality, doubtless, proceeded from the imperfect -construction and dampness of the houses in which our people were -obliged to live when the colony was first formed; and a great deal may -be also attributed to exposure to the fierce and burning rays of the -Hong-kong sun. All the travellers in the East, with whom I had any -conversation on the subject, agreed, that there was a fierceness and -oppressiveness in the sun's rays here, which they never experienced in -any other part of the tropics, even under the line. I have no doubt -that this is caused by the want of luxuriant vegetation, and the -consequent reflection of the sun's rays. The bare and barren rocks -and soil reflect every ray that strikes them; there are no trees or -bushes to afford shade, or to decompose the carbonic acid, and render -it fit for the respiration of man, and thus the air wants that peculiar -softness which makes it so agreeable even in hot tropical climates. - -If these are the principal causes of the mortality in our new colony, -the remedy will of course be apparent to every one. Already a great -improvement has taken place in the houses of the merchants, and in the -barracks of the soldiers, and the results have been most satisfactory. -But the colonists must not stop at this stage in their improvements. -Let the Government and the inhabitants use every means in their -power to clothe the hill-sides in and around the town with a healthy -vegetation; let them plant trees and shrubs by the road sides, in -gardens, and in every place available for such purposes; and then I -have no doubt that Victoria will be quite as healthy as Macao. No one -can approve of the selection of Hong-kong as a British settlement; but -that part of the business being irremediable, we must make the most of -our bargain. - -The native population in Victoria, consist of shopkeepers, tradesmen, -servants, boat-people, and Coolies, and altogether form a most motley -group. Unfortunately there is no inducement for the respectable Chinese -merchant to take up his quarters there, and until that takes place, -we shall always have the worst set of people in the country. The town -swarms with thieves and robbers, who are only kept under by the strong -armed police lately established. Previous to this, scarcely a dark -night passed without some one having his house broken into by an armed -band, and all that was valuable being carried off or destroyed. These -audacious rascals did not except the Governor even, for one night -Government House was robbed; and another time they actually stole the -arms of the sentries. These armed bands, sometimes a hundred strong, -disappeared, as they came, in a most marvellous manner, and no one -seemed to know whence they came or whither they went. Such attacks are -fortunately now of rare occurrence. In all my wanderings on the island, -and also on the main land hereabouts, I found the inhabitants harmless -and civil. I have visited their glens and their mountains, their -villages and small towns, and from all the intercourse I have had with -them, I am bound to give them this character. But perhaps the secret -of all was, that I had nothing for them to take, for I was always most -careful not to have any thing valuable about me, and my clothes, after -scrambling amongst the rocks and brushwood, were not very tempting even -to a Chinaman. - -Since the island of Hong-kong has been ceded to England, the foreign -population in it has been much changed. In former days there were only -a few mercantile establishments, all known to each other, and generally -most upright and honourable men. Now people from all countries, from -England to Sydney, flock to the Celestial country, and form a very -motley group. - -Viewed as a place of trade, I fear Hong-kong will be a failure. The -great export and import trade of southern China must necessarily be -carried on at Canton, as heretofore, there being at present, at least, -no inducement to bring that trade to Hong-kong. It will, nevertheless, -be a place of great importance to many of the merchants, more -particularly to those engaged in the opium trade; and will, in fact, be -the head-quarters of all houses who have business on the coast, from -the facilities of gaining early information regarding the state of -the English and Indian markets, now that steam communication has been -established between this country and the south of China. Moreover, with -all its faults, its importance may yet be acknowledged in the event -of another war. Our countrymen cannot have so entirely forgotten the -kind of protection which used to be afforded them by the Portuguese at -Macao, as to make them wish to be put in the same circumstances again; -and it is of no little importance to know that their lives and property -are safe under the British flag, which has - - .... " braved a thousand years - The battle and the breeze." - - -[1] Before leaving China, I had occasion to visit this spot of -ground--the grave of many a brave soldier. A fine road leading round -the island, for the recreation and pleasure of the inhabitants, passed -through the place where they had been buried. Many of their coffins -were exposed to the vulgar gaze, and the bones of the poor fellows lay -scattered about on the public highway. No one could find fault with the -road having been made there, but if it was necessary to uncover the -coffins, common decency required that they should be buried again. - - - - CHAP. III. - -LEAVE HONG-KONG FOR AMOY.--OPIUM STATION AT NAMOA.--LIBERTY THE ENGLISH -ENJOY THERE.--CHINESE POPULATION, AND THEIR MODES OF LIVING.--A NEW -ADMIRAL MAKES NEW LAWS.--CHERRY-BRANDY ALTERS HIS VIEWS.--THE ACCOUNT -WHICH, AS IN DUTY BOUND, HE SENDS TO PEKING.--NATURAL TUNNEL THROUGH -CHAPLE ISLAND.--AMOY.--REMARKS ON ITS TRADE.--TRAVELS IN THE COUNTRY -AMONGST THE PEOPLE.--THE WANT OF A TAIL.--THE HILLS.--ISLAND OF -KOO-LUNG-SOO.--EFFECTS OF WAR.--STRANGE ROCKS.--UNHEALTHY NATURE OF THE -ISLAND.--BOTANY AND BIRDS.--VISIT TO ONE OF THE CHIEF MANDARINS.--HIS -HOUSE AND GROUNDS. - - -I left the pleasant bay of Hong-kong on the 23d of August, and sailed -for Amoy. As we came out of the harbour by the western entrance, and -rounded the south side of the island, I had an excellent view of the -little town of Chuckchew, and the military station established there. -The town, or village, for it is but a small place, is pleasantly -situated on the shores of a deep bay, and fully exposed to the -refreshing breezes of the south-west monsoon, and is generally -considered much more healthy than the town of Victoria, on the opposite -side of the island. - -It was now my lot to be seized with that dreadful fever, which I have -already noticed, as so prevalent in our new settlement at this time. I -lay in a very precarious state for several days, without the means of -procuring medical aid; but the sea air probably did more for me than -any thing else, and, under Providence, was the means of saving my life. -After encountering a strong gale of wind, which we rode out in a deep -bay for three days, we at last reached the opium station at Namoa. - -_Namoa_ is the name of a small island about half way between Hong-kong -and Amoy, and is well known as one of the stations where the contraband -trade in opium is carried on between foreign vessels and the Chinese -smugglers. At this time I was fresh from England, and full of all the -notions which we form there of the sacredness of the Chinese empire. I -then thought that, although I might perhaps get a view of the celestial -country, no barbarian feet would be allowed to pollute the sacred soil. -Great was my surprise and pleasure when I found the captains of vessels -wandering about all over the island unmolested. They had made roads to -a considerable extent, and had built a cottage as a sort of smoking -lodge when they landed in the evenings for recreation. They had also -erected stables, and had small Chinese ponies for riding all over the -island; in fact, they seemed quite the lords of the soil, and were not -subjected to the least annoyance from the natives. - -Hundreds of Chinamen gather round this spot, where they have erected -huts and a bazaar, or market, for supplying the shipping, and, what -appears not a little strange to European eyes, whenever the ships move -to any other anchorage in the vicinity, the whole of the inhabitants, -houses, market, and all, move along with them, so easily do these -individuals change about from one place to another. One of the captains -informed me that it was in contemplation to leave that particular spot -shortly, and that if I happened to visit it a day or two after this -event, all the motley groups would be gone, and the place entirely -deserted. Nor was this statement at all exaggerated, for on my return a -few months afterwards, the change of station had taken place, and not -a vestige of the little village remained: men, women, and children, -with their huts, boats, and all that belonged to them, had followed the -ships, and had again squatted opposite to them on the beach. - -The different modes which these people have of obtaining a livelihood -are really astonishing: with one of these I was particularly struck. -There are boats of all kinds engaged in bringing off stock, such as -ducks, fowls, and other things, to the ships; but one kind consisted -only of five or six thick pieces of bamboo fastened together in the -form of a raft, and with this the poor fellows paddled along with two -oars, the water washing all over the raft, and frequently also over -its contents. The fowls which some of these people brought off were in -a most pitiable plight, and certainly could not exist long in such a -state. - -A few months after this time a complaint was made to Sir Henry -Pottinger, then governor of Hong-kong, by the Chinese authorities -regarding this state of affairs at Namoa. It set forth that the -subjects of Her Britannic Majesty had built houses, made roads, and -in fact were making another Hong-kong at the island of Namoa, which, -according to the treaty, they had no right to do. The old Chinese -admiral, who had shut his eyes to all these irregular proceedings, had -been removed, and another, remarkable for his _prowess and bravery_ in -the suppression of piracy on that coast! had been appointed to this -station, and it was the latter with whom the complaint originated. -Sir Henry Pottinger acknowledged the irregularity of the proceeding, -but blamed the Chinese authorities for allowing it for such a length -of time, and claimed a period of six months to give time for the sale -or removal of any articles the English might have on shore. This was -agreed to on the part of the Chinese. - -And now comes the part of the business, which so nicely illustrates the -peculiar character of the Chinese. When I visited Namoa, in October, -1845, I made enquiry regarding the state of affairs on shore, and -found that a little civility and a few bottles of cherry brandy had -wonderfully softened the good old admiral, and that a communication had -been received stating that some little show of compliance was actually -necessary: they must pull down the house, for example, but the stables -and horses might remain as before, and the captains might go on taking -their accustomed exercise and recreation on the island, as they had -been in the habit of doing. It was even hinted that no objection would -be made to their putting up another cottage, if they chose to do so. -In the mean time, a fine account had doubtless gone to Peking, showing -how the barbarians had been driven from the island which they had dared -to set foot upon: perhaps a battle had been fought, and a few of our -ships and their crews taken and destroyed, which would give a certain -amount of éclat to the affair. This is the way things are managed in -China! Matters being in this state, I had no difficulty in prosecuting -my botanical researches amongst the hills. These hills are of the same -barren nature as those formerly noticed, and the natural productions, -both in the animal and vegetable kingdoms, resemble those of Hong-kong. - -The island of Namoa is about fifteen miles long, and of irregular -breadth; in some places about five miles. The principal town is -situated on the northern side, having a very fine bay, swarming with -fishing-boats; indeed the whole of the coasts of this celebrated -country are studded with small sailing boats belonging to fishermen, -who seem to be a most industrious and hard-working race of men: many of -them, in this island, go perfectly naked, a practice which I have not -observed so common in any other part of China. - -Leaving Namoa, and sailing up the coast towards Amoy, the stranger -is continually struck with the barren rocky nature of the coast, and -in some parts has a view of hills of sand, the particles of which, -when a hurricane blows, mix with the wind, and whiten the ropes of -vessels, and render it most unpleasant to be in the vicinity. Here and -there he has a view of what appear to be rather fertile plains amongst -the hills, cultivated with sweet potatoes, rice and the other staple -productions of the country. On the top of the highest hills along -the coast, and as far as the eye can reach inland, pagodas are seen -towering, which serve as excellent marks to the mariner as he sails -along the shores. As we approached nearer to Amoy we passed Chapel -Island, remarkable for having a large natural tunnel right through its -centre, which has a most striking and curious appearance when vessels -come in a line with it. In the afternoon we anchored in the harbour of -Amoy between that island and Koo-lung-soo. - -Amoy is a city of the third class, seven or eight miles in -circumference, and densely populated. It is one of the filthiest towns -which I have ever seen, either in China or elsewhere; worse even than -Shanghae, and that is bad enough. When I was there in the hot autumnal -months, the streets, which are only a few feet wide, were thatched over -with mats to protect the inhabitants from the sun. At every corner -the itinerant cooks and bakers were pursuing their avocations, and -disposing of their delicacies; and the odours which met me at every -point were of the most disagreeable and suffocating nature. The suburbs -are rather cleaner than the city; but as it is not customary to use -carriages of any kind in this part of China, the roads are narrow. - -It is from this place and the adjacent coast that the best and most -enterprising Chinese sailors come. Many, or rather most of those who -emigrate to Manila, Singapore, and other parts of the straits are -natives of Amoy and the coast of Fokien, and hence this place has -generally been the head-quarters of the foreign junk trade. During the -war it was remarked by our officers, that the merchants here showed -more knowledge of English customs than those at other places did, and -all were acquainted with our settlement at Singapore, and spoke highly -of it. - -Since this port has been thrown open several foreign merchants have -established themselves, and the trade, although small when compared -with that of the more northern port of Shanghae, is still considerable. -Indian cotton, cotton twist, long cloths of English and American -manufacture, and opium seem to be the principal articles of import, if -we except the Straits produce, which is chiefly brought in their own -junks. Since the arrival of the British Consul the opium ships have -been removed from the harbour, and now lie just outside its limits, -where the Chinese smugglers are allowed to visit them with impunity. - -Unfortunately for the trade at Amoy, the exports of which we are most -in need--I mean teas and silk--are not so easily brought to it as to -the northern port of Shanghae. This, of course, will be much against -Amoy; but nevertheless it may do a considerable portion of business -in other ways. All sorts of coins are current here: dollars, rupees, -English shillings and sixpences, Dutch coins, &c. &c., are all met -with, and pass current by weight. Native gold, in bars, is sometimes -brought in considerable quantities, to pay for the cotton and opium, -and is I believe considered of a very pure quality. - -During my stay here I was continually travelling in the interior, going -sometimes a considerable distance up the rivers, and then landing, and -prosecuting my botanical researches in the adjacent country. Frequently -in these excursions I came unexpectedly upon small towns and villages, -and generally walked into them without the least obstruction on the -part of the natives; indeed, they seemed in most cases highly delighted -to see me. When the day was hot I would sit down under the shade of a -large banyan-tree, generally found growing near the houses, and then -the whole village--men, women, and children, would gather around, -gazing at me with curiosity not unmixed with fear, as if I were a being -from another world. Then one would begin to examine my clothes, another -would peep into my pockets, while several others were examining my -specimens. The general opinion seemed to be that I was a medical man, -and in a very short time I was surrounded with invalids of all classes -and ages, begging assistance and advice. The number of persons who are -diseased in a Chinese village is really astonishing. Many of them are -nearly blind, and a much greater number, in this part of the country -at least, were affected with cutaneous diseases of the most loath-some -description; originating probably in their peculiar diet, and dirty -habits. - -I was one day travelling amongst the hills in the interior of the -island in places where I suppose no Englishman had ever been before. -The day was fine, and the whole of the agricultural labourers were at -work in the fields. When they first saw me, they seemed much excited, -and from their gestures and language I was almost inclined to think -them hostile. From every hill and valley they cried "Wyloe-Fokei," or -"Wyloe-san-pan-Fokei," that is, "Be off to your boat, friend;" but on -former occasions I had always found that the best plan was to put a -bold face on the matter and walk in amongst them, and then try to get -them into good humour. In this instance the plan succeeded admirably: -we were in a few minutes excellent friends; the boys were running in -all directions gathering plants for my specimen-box, and the old men -were offering me their bamboo-pipes to smoke. As I got a little nearer -to the village, however, their suspicions seemed to return, and they -evidently would have been better pleased, had I either remained where -I was, or gone back again. This procedure did not suit my plans, and -although they tried very hard to induce me to "wyloe" to my "san-pan," -it was of no use. They then pointed to the heavens, which were very -black at the time, and told me that it would soon be a thunder-storm, -but even this did not succeed. As a last resource, when they found -that I was not to be turned out of my way, some of the little ones -were sent on before to apprize the villagers of my approach, and when -I reached the village, every living thing, down even to the dogs and -pigs, were out to have a peep at the "Fokei." I soon put them all, the -dogs excepted[1], in the best possible humour, and at last they seemed -in no hurry to get rid of me. One of the most respectable amongst -them, seemingly the head man of the village, brought me some cakes and -tea, which he politely offered me. I thanked him and began to eat. The -hundreds who now surrounded me were perfectly delighted. "He eats and -drinks like ourselves," said one; "Look," said two or three behind me -who had been examining the back part of my head rather attentively, -"look here, the stranger has no tail;" and then the whole crowd, women -and children included, had to come round me, to see if it was really -a fact, that I had no tail. One of them, rather a dandy in his way, -with a noble tail of his own, plaited with silk, now came forward, and -taking off a kind of cloth, which the natives here wear as a turban, -and allowing his tail to fall gracefully over his shoulders, said to -me in the most triumphant manner, "_look at that._" I acknowledged it -was very fine, and promised if he would allow me to cut it off, I would -wear it for his sake. He seemed very much disgusted at the idea of such -a loss, and the others had a good laugh at him. - -The hills in this part of the country are more barren than any I ever -recollect to have seen either before or since; consisting entirely -of bare rocks and gravelly sand, as hard and as solid as stone, with -scarcely a vestige of vegetation. In height they vary from five hundred -to two thousand feet above the level of the sea. Further inland the -ground is more level: it is also much more fertile, and yields good -crops of rice, sweet potatoes and earth-nut, besides a considerable -quantity of ginger and sugar. - -The island of Koo-lung-soo is situated opposite to the town of Amoy, -and commands it. At the time of the war this island was taken by -the English troops, and occupied until the spring of 1845, when the -Chinese paid a part of the ransom money, and it was again placed in -their hands. It is scarcely two miles long, and of irregular breadth, -and seems to have been, before the war, the residence of some of the -principal inhabitants in this part of the country. Most of the houses -on the island are in ruins, but their remains show what they were, -and prove the wealth of their former residents. I could not look upon -the ruined walls, the pretty fish-ponds, all overgrown with weeds -and filled up with rubbish, the remains of gardens, ruinous as the -houses, without wishing most sincerely that war, and all its attending -calamities, might long be kept from my own peaceful, happy home, and -soon be unnecessary in every part of the world. According to all -accounts, the less respectable part of the natives had done more to -make the houses of this island have a ruinous appearance, than our -troops during the war, by pulling down every thing that they could -possibly carry away and dispose of. - -Some immense blocks of stone (granite) are here supported naturally on -the tops of the hills in the strangest manner, and are objects of great -interest to the traveller. One, in particular, appears as if some giant -arm had raised it to its present position, and left it there solely to -astonish the beholder in after-ages, and leave him to wonder not only -how it came there, but how it could remain in its present position, -and, most assuredly, a very small quantity of gunpowder exploded below -it would hurl it from the hill into the plain beneath. Another huge -rock stands near the entrance of the harbour: this, however, seems to -have been on the point of giving way, for it is now supported by a mass -of stone-work on one side. The natives have a tradition concerning this -rock, and say that as long as it stands, the town of Amoy will never -fall before a foreign enemy. Unfortunately for the prophecy, Amoy, like -the rest of the places attacked by the English, was taken, although the -rock still stands as before. - -The island, particularly on the north-eastern and eastern sides, is -very unhealthy: fever and cholera prevail to a great extent during the -south-west monsoon, and are most fatal. Our troops suffered far more -from the climate, when they had possession of the place, than from -the guns of the Chinese at the taking of Amoy. In the autumn of 1843, -the sickness amongst the officers and men of the 18th Royal Irish was -almost unprecedented: dismay was painted in every countenance, for -every one had lost his comrade or his friend. It was dismal indeed. I -have known many who were healthy and well one day, and on the morrow -at sunset their remains were carried to their last resting-place. The -little English burial-place was already nearly full, and the earth was -red and fresh with recent interments, scarcely a day passing without -two or three being added to the number of the dead. And yet what was -rather strange, a detachment of the 41st M. N. I. commanded by Captain -Hall, were, officers and men, all perfectly healthy; they were, -however, on a different part of the island. - -I fear that the more we know of China the more will be dispelled the -notions of its being a healthy country, which we had formed from the -experience of those who lived in their shaded airy houses at Macao and -Canton. During my rambles on Koo-lung-soo I stumbled on the tombstones -of some Englishmen, who, according to the inscriptions on them, had -been interred upwards of one hundred and fifty years: their graves had -been preserved during that long period by the Chinese, who seem to pay -great respect to the tombs of the dead. Lately the stones had been -replaced and the tombs repaired by one of our captains on the coast, -who, for this respectful and praiseworthy act, had acquired amongst his -comrades the name of _Old Mortality_. - -In the midst of such rocky mountains and barren scenery, it will not -be expected that I could have much success in my botanical researches. -Besides, the flora has still much of the same tropical character as -the Canton province. In the gardens there were several pretty shrubs, -but the greater part of them were well known, such, for example, as -the _Jasminum Sambac, Olea fragrans, China rose, Chrysanthemums_, and -various other common species. The hedges and crevices of the rocks -abound in a little creeper called _Pæderia fÅ“tida_, very pretty, but -having a most disagreeable odour. There are, however, some very pretty -roses on the island, producing small double flowers of great neatness -and beauty, although destitute of perfume. These I sent home to the -garden of the Horticultural Society at Chiswick. - -Birds are very rare, and the species most meagre in number: indeed this -may be expected, as there is no shelter for them. A small Mina with -white wings is met with in large flocks; white-necked crows are common, -as well as paddy-birds, Indian kites, and two or three varieties of -kingfishers. During my stay here I was much assisted by Captain Hall of -the 41st N. I., who was fond of botany, and well acquainted with the -localities of all the plants in the neighbourhood. - -One day I went in company with this gentleman and the Rev. Mr. Abele, -an American missionary, to pay our respects to one of the principal -mandarins, and to see his houses and gardens. His residence is in -the suburbs of the town, on the side of a rocky hill, close to the -beach. When we entered the outer court, we were received by a number -of officers of inferior rank, and conducted to a kind of office, -where, after politely desiring us to sit down, they offered us their -pipes to smoke, and snuff-boxes, or rather phials of glass and stone, -containing something which was like Scotch snuff, and rather agreeable. -There were two couches or beds in the room, on one of which I observed -a small lamp burning and an opium pipe lying by its side, by which -I conjectured we had disturbed an opium-smoker in the midst of his -enjoyment. Tea was immediately set before us, as is the custom in this -country; but it was very indifferent, and, as Mr. Abele informed us -that we should get much better when we were introduced to the principal -Mandarin, we only tasted it in compliment to our good friends. - -In a few minutes the Mandarin himself came to conduct us into a more -splendid apartment. It was a large airy room, one side fitted up with -finely carved cases, in the centre of which stood a time-piece and -some beautiful jars filled with flowers. I here had an opportunity of -seeing the great veneration with which the Chinese regard anything that -is old. One of these pieces of porcelain, he informed us, had been in -his family for five hundred years, and had the peculiar property of -preserving flowers or fruits from decay for a lengthened period. He -seemed to prize it much on account of its age, and handled it with -great veneration. The other side of the room was elevated a little, and -fitted up for the "sing-song," or theatricals, of which the Chinese, -from the highest to the lowest, are passionately fond. Tea was soon -brought in, in a tea-pot, in the European fashion, and not in the -manner usual amongst the Chinese; for the custom with them is first -to put the tea into the cup, and then to pour the water over it, the -visitor drinking the beverage and leaving the leaves in the bottom of -the cup--an admirable mode for such persons as the Aberdeen gentleman, -who, some years since, when coffee was not so common as it is now, -complained that "his landlady did not give him the thick as well as the -thin." Sugar is never used by the Chinese with their tea. - -The Mandarin, after making various inquiries about us--what our names -were? what our occupations? how long we had been from home? and more -particularly how old we were?--and after minutely inspecting our -clothes, the coloured waist-coats apparently gratifying him very much, -asked us to walk out and see the grounds around the mansion. The house -stands near the base of the hill, and the garden lies behind it: -the whole is really pretty; the large banyan-trees overhanging the -walks, and the huge and rugged rocks forming caves and shades from -the sun. A very fine spring issues from the hill-side, from beneath a -rock. This water the proprietor praised very much, and we all drank -heartily of it to please him: really such a spring, in a place like -this, is invaluable. A telescope was brought to us, which he evidently -considered a great curiosity. He placed it upon a large stone table, -carefully adjusting it to the desired view, and then asked us to -look through it; but we were not accustomed to use the instrument in -that way, and took it up in our hands in the usual manner. He seemed -surprised that we could see through it this way. After showing us all -the curiosities in the garden, he took us back into the house, where -tea was again set before us, with the addition of six or seven kinds -of cake, which, however good they may be considered by the Chinese, I -must confess I did not like. I have since tasted excellent buns and -short cakes in Chusan and Shanghae. After some further conversation, -we withdrew, the Mandarin inviting us to renew our visit as often as -we pleased. It was now dark, and we were lighted to the river with -torches, followed, as usual, by some hundreds of the Chinese, who -were all respectful and civil. Indeed, we were always honoured with a -body-guard of this description wherever we went. - - -[1] The Chinese house-dog has a great antipathy to foreigners, and will -scarcely make friends with them. - - - - CHAP. IV. - -LEAVE AMOY.--GALE IN THE FORMOSA CHANNEL.--DRIVEN BACK TO -CHIMOO.--CHIMOO BAY.--CHINESE MODE OF PAYING TAXES.--CHARACTER OF -THE NATIVES.--JOURNEY TO THE HILLS.--CHIMOO PAGODA.--INTERESTING -SCENERY.--ATTACKED AND ROBBED.--MY SERVANT'S OPINION OF THE STATE OF -MATTERS.--GET BACK IN SAFETY TO THE SHORE.--NOVEL MODE OF CROSSING THE -WET SANDS.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--THE BAY OF CHINCHEW. - - -Having travelled all over the country adjacent to Amoy, and completed -my researches, at the end of September I sailed again towards the -Formosa Channel, on my way to our most northern stations of Chusan, -Ningpo and Shanghae. The Monsoon, however, had now changed from -south-west to north-east, and we experienced very stormy weather, with -strong northerly currents, which, of course, were directly against -us. The vessel was at last obliged to put into the Bay of Chinchew -from stress of weather, and having sprung her bowsprit in the gale, -it was impossible for her to proceed. At one time the sea was running -so high, and the vessel plunging so much, that the whole of her decks -were frequently under water. Some idea may be formed of the storm when -I mention that a large fish weighing at least thirty pounds was thrown -out of the sea upon the skylight on the poop, the frame of which was -dashed to pieces, and the fish fell through, and landed upon the cabin -table. - -In a day or two our cargo was got out and put into another vessel, -in which I also embarked, and we again proceeded on our voyage. This -attempt was even more disastrous than the last, for after being out for -several days, and having got nearly through the Formosa Channel, we met -one of those dreadful gales so well known to the navigators of these -seas. Our newest and strongest sails were split to pieces, the bulwarks -washed away, and in spite of the best seamanship, and every exertion, -we were driven back far below the bay from which we started about a -week before. I shall long remember one of these fearful nights. The -poor Lascar crew were huddled together under the long boat, to shelter -themselves from the wind: the sea was running very high, and washing -our decks fore and aft, as if we had been a narrow plank tossing on the -waves. I had gone below, and the Captain had come down for a second, -to look at the barometer, when we felt a sea strike the vessel with -terrible force, and heard a crash which sounded as if her sides had -been driven in; at the same moment the glass of the skylight came down -about our ears, and the sea forced its way into the cabin. I certainly -thought the little schooner had gone to pieces; but Captain Landers -rushed on deck to ascertain the damage which had been done, and to -try to repair it. The night was very dark; but he soon found that our -weather bulwarks had been stove in, and the long-boat carried over to -leeward from its place in mid-ships, where it was fixed. Luckily the -lee bulwarks held it fast, otherwise the boat and the whole of our crew -would have been swept together into the angry foaming ocean, where no -mortal arm could have rendered them any assistance. Two glazed plant -cases filled with plants from Amoy, which were on the deck, were dashed -to pieces, and their contents, of course, completely destroyed. In the -long voyage from England to China, even in rounding the celebrated -"Cape of Storms," I never experienced such weather as I met with on the -east coast of China, at the commencement of the north-east monsoon. -After being three days in the storm, having only as much sail on the -vessel as to steady her, the gale moderated a little, and we were able -to hoist more sail, and make for the land, which proved to be a place -called Chimoo, which was far below the point which we started from a -week before. - -_Chimoo Bay_ is about fifty miles north of Amoy. It has been an opium -station for foreign ships for some years; and here, even during the -war, that trade was carried on in spite of the mandarins. The natives -of the different towns on the shores of this bay are an independent and -lawless race. An anecdote was related to me by one of the captains, -which gives a fair idea how things are managed in this part of the -country. - -Some of the opium merchants came on board one of the ships in the bay, -and requested the loan of some guns, for each of which they offered to -deposit a large piece of Sycee silver, which was, of course, much more -than its value; and promised to return them in a day or two. When asked -what they intended to do with them, they replied, that the mandarins -and officers of government were expected shortly to levy the taxes, and -that the people were determined not to pay. They said they only wanted -four or five guns for the purpose: these were granted them; and in a -day or two, when they returned them, inquiry was made if they had been -successful. "Oh, yes," they said: "they had driven the mandarins over -the hills." It certainly had been no very difficult matter to effect -this object. - -The inhabitants in the towns and villages around the bay are frequently -at war with each other; in this they resemble the borderers of our own -country in ancient feudal times, when "might was right." As in those -days, too, a sort of black mail is levied, and treaties of peace are -concluded, one of the parties paying a stipulated sum to the other. -This, however, I am sorry to say, is not the worst trait in their -character: they are the greatest thieves and robbers in existence; as I -myself found to my cost. - -One day I had sent my Chinese servant on shore with orders to gather -all the plants he could find in a certain direction, which I pointed -out to him before he left the ship; but he returned to me the next -morning with only a few useless things, which he had evidently gathered -very near the landing-place on the shore. I felt much annoyed at -this, and scolded him pretty sharply for his conduct; but he excused -himself by saying, that he durst not go in the direction to which I -had pointed, as he would have been beaten and robbed by the Chinchew -men. This I did not believe at the time, and imagined that it was -laziness on his part, for, like most of the Chinese, who receive a -specified sum per month for their services, he was rather remarkable -for this propensity; I therefore determined to set out myself on -the day following, and give him the treat of a long walk for his -misconduct. The following morning was fine, and I jumped into a China -boat which I had hired for the purpose, and reached the shore, after -being completely drenched by the breakers, which roll high along the -shores of this bay, and render the landing, particularly in small -boats, rather dangerous. When I got on shore, and proceeded to walk in -the direction I intended, the boatman and others came round me, and -attempted to dissuade me from going, by intimating that I was sure to -be attacked by the Chinchew men, and robbed or murdered. I also saw -signs of warfare in the shape of matchlocks and long bamboo poles, -in the hands of the Chinamen, who, as my servant informed me, were -obliged to carry them in self-defence. I began to wish, then, that I -had brought off from the ship a few of the crew for protection--indeed -Captain Woodrow kindly offered to send some with me when I set out: -however, it was now too late; and I determined to put a bold face on -the matter and proceed. I set out towards the hills, on one of which -stands the Chimoo pagoda, which I was anxious to visit on my route, as -I expected to get a good view of the country from its summit. - -Many acres of ground here, all along the shore, are used for -evaporating sea water and forming salt, which is a great article of -trade in China. As the traveller proceeds inland, the ground, capable -of cultivation, is covered with crops of sweet potato and earth-nut, -which form the staple productions of this part of the country in the -autumnal months. Between the different fields, one often stumbles upon -the graves of the natives, sometimes finely ornamented with those -half-circular erections, so common in the south of China, and at other -times without any ornament whatever; this of course depending upon the -wealth of the relatives. The hills are like those near Amoy, rocky and -barren, having here and there a few wild plants growing on the sides of -the ravines; some of which, however, are very beautiful. The pagoda, -already mentioned, stands on the top of the highest hill, and affords -an excellent landmark to the vessels on the coast. - -On my way towards the hills, I was frequently surrounded by hundreds of -the Chinese, and was evidently considered a great _natural curiosity_. -The country, although barren, teems with inhabitants; indeed, I almost -thought the very stones were changing into Chinamen, so rapidly did -the crowd accumulate at times. The sight was droll enough:--here were -I and my servant on one side of some ravine, with our specimen boxes -and other implements gathering samples of every thing we could find; -there, on the top of the other, stood three or four hundred of the -Chinese, of both sexes, and all ages, looking down upon us with wonder -painted in every countenance. And then, their features, their manners -and costume, were all so striking to a stranger, that I believe our -surprise and curiosity were mutual. They were generally civil, but -I ran a risk at last of getting into trouble, on account of a silk -neckcloth which I had on, and to which some of them took a great -fancy, telling me that it would look so well round their heads--for -in this part of China they wear a handkerchief like a turban. I was -much amused with the various plans they employed to get it from me: -one brought a handful of chillies, which he held out in one hand, and -with the other pointed to the neckcloth, intimating that he would close -the bargain in that way; another did the same with a few earth-nuts, -and some brought me a few weeds; all, however, taking care to offer -nothing of value. I began blundering Chinese to them as well as I -could, upon which two of the men ran off to the village as fast as they -could, desiring me to wait until they returned. I could not divine the -reason of this; but in order to please them, I complied with their -wishes. They soon returned, bringing with them a bottle of sam-shew, or -Chinese spirits; which they supposed I had asked for, and which they -now tendered for the neckcloth, evidently considering that this offer -must be irresistible. The crowd, however, was now becoming rather too -great, and I walked on towards the hills, and began to ascend them--a -plan which I always adopted when I wanted to get away from the Chinese, -as they are generally too lazy to follow far, where much exertion is -required. The manoeuvre answered my purpose, for I was soon left to my -own meditations. When I reached the highest hill on which the pagoda -stands, and looked down on the level plain over which I had passed, I -was at no loss to comprehend from whence the numbers came by whom I -had been surrounded, as large villages or towns now met my eye in all -directions which had not been visible when I was on the plain. - -On reaching the pagoda, I was astonished to find it in a most -dilapidated condition, almost ruinous, although the main part of it, -which had been strongly built, was nearly entire. A few stone josses -or gods--a dome, with a double wall, containing a winding staircase -leading to the different balconies through which the wind howled in a -most dismal manner, are all that I can particularise about the pagoda. -I went over the whole of it, and obtained an excellent view of the -surrounding country for many miles on all sides. As far as the eye can -reach, it has the same barren and rocky character. No one noticed or -molested me in any way. - -After enjoying the view of the country from the top of the hills, I -again descended to the low ground by a different way from that by which -I had come; but no sooner did I reach the plain, than I was again -surrounded by the natives. It was getting late in the afternoon, and -my servant, I believe, felt rather tired, as I had intended he should -when we started in the morning. He now began to scheme a little, to -save himself from walking any farther than he could possibly help; -and as I sometimes traversed rather wide circular routes in search of -plants, he generally took the nearest way in the direction in which -he knew we had ultimately to go. A few of the natives now began to -follow me rather closely, and from their manner I suspected that their -intentions were not good; but as they pretended to take me to some -place where I should see some good plants and flowers, I allowed them -to accompany me, and tried to keep them all in good humour. We arrived -at last in sight of a large mansion, standing in a retired part of the -country, and I was proceeding with perfect confidence towards it, when -the Chinamen began to press more closely round me; and upon feeling a -hand in my pocket, I turned quickly round, and saw the thief running -off with a letter which he had abstracted. As soon as he saw he was -discovered, he threw it on the ground, and made off; but when I put my -hand into my pocket, I found that I had lost several things of more -value. This incident stopped my progress, and made me look about for -my servant, whom I saw at some distance attacked by about eight or ten -of the fellows. They had surrounded him, presenting their knives, and -threatening to stab him if he offered the least resistance, at the same -time endeavouring to rob and strip him of every thing of the slightest -value, and my poor plants collected with so much care were flying about -in all directions. I felt that we were in a dangerous situation, and -instantly leaving my pickpockets, set off to his assistance as fast as -I could. When the Chinamen saw me coming, they all took to their heels -and left him, making off towards their companions, who were looking -on from a distance. My servant was pale with fright when I reached -him, and very much excited; nor did he fail to remind me of all he had -said the day before. I felt there was no denying we were in dangerous -company, and that the only thing to be done was to get out of it as -soon as we could. Accordingly I made straight for the village where -we had left the boat, and my servant took good care to follow close -at my heels. As we approached the landing-place the boatman came to -meet us in high spirits, saying he had expected us long ago, and was -fearful that the Chinchew men had either robbed or murdered us. It was -now ebb tide, and there was about half a mile of bare sand to cross, -with the surf breaking furiously beyond it. The boatman at first said -it was impossible to go to the ship before morning, and the people of -the village promised me good chow-chow (food), and quarters for the -night. I thanked them for all their kind offers, but told them that I -should be much better pleased to get on board of the Ka pan with three -masts, as I was to sail to Chusan early next day. Upon this, a sign -was made to some other boatmen hard by, and immediately all were in -motion. A boat was carried by a number of men across the sands to the -water. I jumped upon the back of a stout Chinaman, who scampered like a -race-horse across the wet sands, and deposited me in the boat; and they -rowed us through the rolling surf in a masterly manner. I reached the -ship, all safe and sound, although completely drenched with wet, but -with my opinion of the Chinese considerably lowered by the adventures -of the day. - -Amongst the plants which were nearly destroyed in the fight between -my servant and the natives were several fine roots of _Campanula -grandiflora_, which grows wild amongst these hills, and a new species -of Abelia (_Abelia rupestris_). Both have ultimately arrived safe in -England, and are now in the garden of the Horticultural Society at -Chiswick. - -The bay which bears the name of _Chinchew_ has also a station for -merchants' vessels, a few miles further north than that of Chimoo. I -mention this place to show the great change which has taken place in -the Chinese since the late war. The captains of the ships here, as at -Namoa, have now horses to take exercise in the morning and evening. - -A little incident occurred about this time, which speaks for itself. -It was necessary, from some cause or other, to remove the officers' -stable, and build it on another part of the shore. The men employed for -this purpose, when taking away the stones from the one place to the -other, were stopped by some natives of the lower order, who took the -stones and appropriated them to their own use. In going past the site -of the old stable a few days afterwards, our people were surprised to -see the stones all brought back; doubtless through the interference -of some superior officer amongst the Chinese. This incident shows, -I think, that the mandarins are anxious to preserve peace with the -English, although some people, who pretend to secret sources of -information, assert that in the interior they are preparing for another -war. - -The country, both with regard to vegetation and general features, is -the same as at Chimoo: I was, however, much struck with the formation -of one part of the main-land near the entrance to the bay. Part of -the hill was rocky, but other parts were formed by immense banks of -sea-sand, which appear to have been driven up from the bottom of the -ocean by some terrific storm, or convulsion of nature. Sea shells, -stony shingle, large fragments of rock, as well as sand, contribute -their share in swelling the mighty mass, and all formed a great -contrast with the appearance of every thing around it. - -The natives bear the same character as those all along the coast in -this province--that of thieves and pirates; but they are the best and -most enterprising sailors in China, and you meet them in every port you -go to. Their trade will be much injured by the admission of English -vessels into the northern ports. - -I must here notice the great kindness and assistance which I have -always received from the captains of vessels at these opium stations, -who were always ready to lend me a helping hand, and forward my views -by every means in their power. - - - - CHAP. V. - -LAND AT CHUSAN.--DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND.--TOWN OF -TINGHAE.--AGRICULTURE.--STAPLE PRODUCTIONS.--HEMP PLANTS.--PALM -OF WHICH ROPES ARE MADE.--TREFOIL CULTIVATED FOR MANURE.--OIL -PLANT.--FLORA.--HILLS COVERED WITH AZALEAS, ETC.--THE TALLOW -TREE.--GREEN-TEA SHRUB.--BAMBOOS AND OTHER TREES.--FRUITS.--YANG MAI -AND KUM-QUAT.--INHABITANTS AND SHOPS IN TINGHAE.--ENGLISH NAMES ON -SHOP DOORS.--A NEW LANGUAGE.--MODE OF CLASSING FOREIGNERS.--DISEASES -OF THE EYE COMMON.--SALT-MAKING.--METHOD OF PREPARING THE VEGETABLE -TALLOW.--MODE OF HATCHING EGGS BY ARTIFICIAL HEAT. - - -Our little vessel being sufficiently repaired, we were able to proceed -on our voyage. This time we were more fortunate, and reached the Chusan -group of islands in ten days from Chimoo. When we neared the islands, -I was delighted with the change in the aspect of the country; and as -we anchored off Keto Point, waiting for the tide, Captain Landers -kindly allowed me to have the ship's boat and crew to go on shore. -The first glance at the vegetation convinced me that this must be the -field of my future operations, and I had then no doubt that my mission -would end most successfully. Here the hills were no longer barren, but -either cultivated, or clothed with beautiful green grass, trees, and -brushwood. I returned to the vessel in high spirits, and in a few hours -afterwards we were at anchor in the fine Bay of Chusan. - -Chusan is a large and beautiful island, twenty miles in length and ten -or twelve in breadth at the broadest part. In approaching it, the view -of the numerous other islands which stud the sea in all directions, -is striking and picturesque, noble mountains towering above the other -land, and fertile valleys sloping gradually to the ocean. The island -itself is a succession of hills, valleys, and glens, presenting an -appearance not unlike the scenery in the Highlands of Scotland. At -the head of every valley there are mountain passes, over which the -inhabitants cross when they wish to visit the interior of the island. -The valleys are rich and beautiful, surrounded by mountains, which in -many parts are covered with trees, and in others under cultivation: -these, in their turn, again open and expose other vallies no less -fertile, rich in vegetation, and watered by the clear streams from -the mountains. Thus the traveller can visit the whole of the island, -his way winding through valleys and over mountain passes, until his -prospect is at last arrested by the sea, of which he has had frequent -glimpses during the journey. Did our island of Hong-kong possess the -natural advantages and beauties of Chusan, what a splendid place it -might have been made by our enterprising English merchants in a very -few years! - -The principal town is Tinghae, well known as the place twice taken -by the English troops during the last war. It is but small, compared -with any of the other five ports where foreigners are now trading: -the walls are not more than three miles in circumference, and the -suburbs not very extensive. When I was there, the island was in the -hands of the English, being retained by them until 1846, under the -treaty of Nanking, and Tinghae was of course the head quarters of the -troops: we had also military stations at Sing-kong and Sing-kie-mun, -the western and eastern parts of the island. Major-General Sir James -Schoedde, the officer in command, to whom I had letters from Lord -Stanley, very kindly procured me quarters in a house within the walls, -and I immediately commenced operations. I was fortunate in becoming -acquainted with Dr. Maxwell, of the 2d Madras native infantry, who was -stationed there. This gentleman, an ardent lover of botanical pursuits, -had been most indefatigable in his researches, and was consequently -able to give me much valuable information. He had also made drawings of -all the more striking plants which he had met with on the island, and I -was thus at once put in possession of information which it would have -taken me some months to acquire in any other way. - -During two years from this date (Nov. 1843), I had frequent -opportunities of visiting Chusan, at all seasons of the year, and -was consequently enabled to gain a perfect knowledge of the soil, -productions, and flora of the island. The soil of the hills is a rich -gravelly loam; in the valleys it is more stiff, from having less -vegetable matter mixed with it, and from being almost continually under -water. The rocks of granite, however, of the same kind as those noticed -on the barren southern hills, exist here also; and although they are -generally covered with soil and vegetation, they have doubtless been at -some former time as bleak and barren as their southern neighbours. - -All the valleys and hill-sides are under cultivation; paddy is the -principal crop on the low grounds, and sweet potatoes on the hills. In -the spring and early summer months, crops of wheat, barley, beans, peas -and maize are grown on the hilly and rising grounds, the low paddy land -being too wet for such crops. Cotton is also grown on the island, but -the quantity is inconsiderable it is only for the home use of the small -farmers on whose land it grows. There is a species of _Urtica_, both -wild and cultivated, which grows about three or four feet in height, -and produces a strong fibre in the bark, which is prepared by the -natives, and sold for the purpose of making ropes and cables. Another -strong fibre is obtained from the bracts of a palm-tree cultivated on -the hill-sides of Chusan, as well as in similar situations all over the -province of Chekiang. These articles answer the purposes to which they -are applied extremely well; but the rope made from the Manila hemp is -of much greater strength and durability. From the bracts of this same -palm the natives of the north make what they call a _So-e_, or garment -of leaves, and a hat of the same material, which they put on during -rainy weather; and although they look comical enough in the dress, -still it is an excellent protection from wind and rain. In the south -of China the _So-e_ is made from the leaves of the bamboo and other -broad-leaved grasses. - -After the last crop of rice has been gathered in, the ground is -immediately ploughed up and prepared to receive certain hardy green -crops, such as clover, the oil plant, and other varieties of the -cabbage tribe. The trefoil, or clover, is sown on ridges, to keep it -above the level of the water, which often covers the valleys during -the winter months. When I first went to Chusan, and saw this plant -cultivated so extensively in the fields, I was at a loss to know the -use to which it was applied, for the Chinese have few cattle to feed, -and these are easily supplied from the road-sides and uncultivated -parts of the hills. On inquiry I was informed that this crop was -cultivated almost exclusively for manure. The large fresh leaves of the -trefoil are also picked and used as a vegetable by the natives. - -The oil plant, _Brassica chinensis_, is in seed and ready to be taken -from the ground in the beginning of May. This plant is extensively -grown in this part of China, both in the province of Chekiang and also -in Kiangsoo, and there is a great demand for the oil which is pressed -from its seeds. For the information of readers not acquainted with -botany, I may state that this plant is a species of cabbage, producing -flower stems three or four feet high, with yellow flowers, and long -pods of seed like all the cabbage tribe. In April, when the fields are -in bloom, the whole country seems tinged with gold, and the fragrance -which fills the air, particularly after an April shower, is delightful. - -The small ox-plough, and the celebrated water-wheel which is here -worked by hand, are the two principal implements in husbandry; the -plough seems a rude thing, but it answers the purpose remarkably well, -and is probably better for the Chinese in their present state, with -their oxen and buffaloes, than our more improved implement. An immense -quantity of water is raised with great ease by the water-wheel, and -is made to flow into the different rice flats with great rapidity. I -have often stood for a considerable time looking on and admiring the -simplicity and utility of this contrivance. - -The flora of Chusan, and all over the main land in this part of the -province of Chekiang, is very different from that of the south. Almost -all the species of a tropical character have entirely disappeared, and -in their places we find others related to those found in temperate -climates in other parts of the world. I here met, for the first time, -the beautiful _Glycine sinensis_ wild on the hills, where it climbs -among the hedges and on trees, and its flowering branches hang in -graceful festoons by the sides of the narrow roads which lead over the -mountains. The _Ficus nitida_, so common around all the houses and -temples in the south, is here unknown; and many of those beautiful -flowering genera which are only found on the tops of the mountains in -the south, have here chosen less exalted situations. I allude more -particularly to the _Azaleas_ which abound on the hill-sides of this -island. Most people have seen and admired the beautiful azaleas which -are brought to the Chiswick fêtes, and which, as individual specimens, -surpass in most instances those which grow and bloom on their native -hills: but few can form any idea of the gorgeous and striking beauty of -these azalea-clad mountains, where, on every side, as far as our vision -extends, the eye rests on masses of flowers of dazzling brightness -and surpassing beauty. Nor is it the azalea alone which claims our -admiration; clematises, wild roses, honeysuckles, the Glycine, noticed -above, and a hundred others, mingle their flowers with them, and make -us confess that China is indeed the "central flowery land." There are -several species of myrtaceous and ericaceous plants, which are also -common on the hills, but no species of heath has ever been found, and I -believe the genus does not exist in this part of the country. - -The tallow tree (_Stillingia sebifera_) is abundant in the valleys of -Chusan, and large quantities of tallow and oil are yearly extracted -from its seeds: tallow mills are erected in several parts of the island -for this purpose. The _Laurus Camphora_, or camphor tree, is also -abundant, but no camphor is extracted or exported from the island. -The green tea shrub (_Thea viridis_) is cultivated every where; but, -if we except a small quantity which is annually sent over to the main -land--to Ningpo and the adjacent towns,--the whole is used by the -inhabitants themselves. Every small farmer and cottager has a few -plants on his premises, which he rears with considerable care, but -seems to have no wish to enter on its cultivation on a larger scale. -Indeed it is questionable if it would answer, as the soil is scarcely -rich enough; and, although the shrub grows pretty well, it is far from -being so luxuriant as it is in the larger tea districts on the main -land. The forests of different varieties of bamboo are very striking, -and give a kind of tropical character to the Chusan scenery. I do not -know any thing more beautiful than the yellow bamboo with its clean and -straight stem, and graceful top and branches waving in the breeze: it -always reminded me of our young larch forests at home. The fir tree, -found in the south, is also common in this part of China: it seems to -be an exception to a general rule, being met with all over the country, -and in every degree of latitude. Here the _Cunninghamia sinensis_, -another of the pine tribe, is also found in abundance: it is more -rare in the south. Besides these there are several species of cypress -and juniper, which are always found growing around the tombs of the -wealthy, which are scattered over the valley and hill-sides. - -In fruits Chusan is meagre indeed. All the peaches, grapes, pears, -plums, oranges, &c., which are brought to the markets of Tinghae in the -summer season, are from the main land. There are, however, two fruits -cultivated on the island, which are of considerable excellence; the -one is called _Yang-mai_: it is a scarlet fruit, not unlike an arbutus -or strawberry, but having a stone like a plum in the centre; the other -is the _Kum-quat_, a small species of Citrus, about the size of an -oval gooseberry, with a sweet rind and sharp acid pulp. This fruit -is well known in a preserved state by those who have any intercourse -with Canton, and a small quantity is generally sent home as presents -every year. Preserved in sugar, according to the Chinese method, it is -excellent. Groves of the kum-quat are common on all the hill-sides of -Chusan. The bush grows from three to six feet high, and, when covered -with its orange-coloured fruit, is a very pretty object. - -The islands of the Chusan Archipelago having every variety of elevation -and soil, and a large proportion of the hills and ravines being in a -state of nature[1], I found them not only rich in plants, but had also -the satisfaction of meeting with several novelties of great interest. - -The natives of Chusan are a quiet and inoffensive race, and were -always civil and obliging to me. Like the vegetation of their hills, -they are very different from their countrymen of the south, and the -change, I am happy to say, is for the better and not for the worse. -Doubtless there are thieves and bad characters amongst them; but -these are comparatively few, and are kept in better check by the -government, the result of which is, that unprotected property is in a -great measure safe, and cases of theft are almost unknown. The people -may be divided into three classes:--the countrymen or agricultural -farmers and labourers, the shopkeepers in the towns, and the mandarins -or officers of government. The trade of Tinghae and the other towns -seems to consist chiefly in articles of food and clothing, and owing -to the number of British soldiers who were there from the time of our -taking possession of the island until it was again handed over to the -Chinese, this trade was of course in a flourishing condition. Fruits -and vegetables were brought in great quantities from the main land, -fish were plentiful; good sheep were sold at about three dollars each, -and the Chinese even got so far over their religious prejudices as to -keep the market well supplied with bullocks, which were sold at prices -varying from eight to twelve dollars. It was astonishing how quickly -they got accustomed to our habits, and were able to supply all our -wants. Bread baked in the English mode was soon exposed for sale in the -shops[2], and even ready-made clothes were to be had in any quantity. -The tailors flocked from all quarters: a large proportion of the shops -near the beach were occupied by them, and they doubtless reaped a rich -harvest, although they made and sold every article of dress on the -most reasonable terms. Then there were curiosity shops without number, -containing josses or gods carved in bamboo or stone, incense burners, -old bronzes, animals of strange forms which only exist in the brains of -the Chinese, and countless specimens of porcelain and pictures. Silk -shops, too, were not wanting, and here were to be had beautiful pieces -of manufactured silk, much cheaper and better than could be purchased -in Canton. The embroidery in these shops was of the most elaborate and -beautiful description, which must be seen before it can be appreciated; -this the Chinese were making into articles, such as scarfs and aprons, -for English ladies. - -The shopkeepers in Tinghae supposed an English name indispensable to -the respectability of their shops and the success of their trade, and -it was quite amusing to walk up the streets and read the different -names which they had adopted under the advice and instruction of -the soldiers and sailors to whom they had applied on the subject. -There were "Stultz, tailor, from London;" "Buckmaster, tailor to the -army and navy;" "Dominic Dobbs, the grocer;" "Squire Sam, porcelain -merchant;" and the number of tradesmen "to Her Majesty" was very -great, among whom one was "Tailor to Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen -Victoria and His Royal Highness Prince Albert, by appointment," and -below the name was a single word, which I could not make out for some -few seconds,--_Uniformsofalldescriptions._ Certificates from their -customers were also in great request, and many of these were most -laughable performances. The poor Chinese were never quite at their ease -about these certificates, as they were so often hoaxed by the donors, -and consequently were continually showing them to other customers and -asking "_what thing that paper talkie; can do, eh?_" The answer was -probably in this strain--"Oh, yes, _Fokei_, this can do, only a little -alteration, more better." Poor Fokei runs and brings a pen, the little -alteration is made, and it is needless to add that the thing is ten -times more ridiculous than it was before. - -Almost all the natives who come in contact with the English understand -a little of the language; and as they have also a smattering of -Portuguese, Malay, and Bengalese, they soon mix them up all together, -and draw out of the whole a new tongue, which the most accomplished -linguist would have very great difficulty in analysing. And, what is -most amusing, they fancy all the time that this is capital English. - -The way in which the Chinese classed the foreigners on the island -was somewhat droll. There were three degrees of rank which they -generally bestowed upon them,--Mandarins, or, as they pronounced it, -_Mandalees_, _Sien-sangs_, and _A-says_. In the first class they -included all persons of rank holding government situations, as well as -the officers of the army and navy; the higher being styled "Bulla Bulla -Mandalees," and the lower "Chotta Chotta Mandalees," corruptions of -Hindostan words, signifying very large and very small. The merchants -were honoured with the title of "_Sien-sang_" and the common soldiers, -sailors, and the rest of the lower orders, were all classed under the -head of A-says. The word Mandarin is not Chinese, but has always been -used by the Portuguese at Macao, as well as by the English, to denote a -Chinese government officer; Sien-sang is a Chinese term, and signifies -master or teacher, being generally used by the people as a title of -respect, in the same way as we commonly use our word Sir; but _A-say_ -is quite a new appellation. "I say," or "Ay say," is a very common -expression amongst our soldiers and sailors; and when the northern -towns were taken by us during the war, the Chinese continually heard -our men shouting it out to each other, and naturally concluded that -this was the name of the class to which the lower orders belonged. It -was quite common to hear them asking each other whether such a one was -a Mandarin, a Sien-sang, or an A-say. - -Cutaneous diseases are less common amongst the natives here than -amongst those in the south of China, probably owing to the more -healthy nature of the climate. They are, however, dreadfully affected -with diseases of the eye and ultimate blindness. This is, doubtless, -caused in a great measure by the operations of the native barber, who, -whenever he shaves the heads of his customers, also tickles their -eyes and probes their ears, and the result is that they become both -blind and deaf. The lashes of the eye, probably also from this cause, -frequently grow inwards, and the hairs rubbing on the eyeball soon -causes inflammation. Many of the poor natives were cured by my friend -Dr. Maxwell, who, in the kindest and most philanthropic manner, set -apart a portion of every day for the purpose. They flocked to him from -all parts of the island, submitting cheerfully and without a murmur -to operations of a most painful nature. Many most remarkable cures -resulted from his skill, and his fame spread not only all over the -island, but also to the main land--to Chinhae and Ningpo,--from whence -numbers came and begged to be admitted on his lists of patients. One -day, when I was out with the Doctor on a botanising expedition, as -we were passing a small cottage at the foot of the hills a man and -his wife rushed out, and begged us to enter their humble dwelling. We -did so, chairs were set for us, tea was brought, and the worthy pair -thanked the Doctor in the most feeling and grateful manner for his -former kindness to them. The man had been nearly blind, and unable to -work for his family, when, hearing of the wonderful English doctor, he -came over to Chusan, and soon received his sight. - -Many of the inhabitants of Chusan and the neighbouring islands gain -their living by making salt on the shores. Large heaps of clay are -scraped together in winter on the flats close by the sea; and when -the weather becomes warm in summer, these heaps are spread out, and -regularly watered with sea water several times a day, which quickly -evaporates and leaves a highly saline mixture. When by this means the -soil is completely saturated, the next operation is to make a filter. -This the natives do by forming a round basin of clay and mud; in the -bottom of this they put a quantity of straw or grass, and some charcoal -or ashes on the top; they then surround the whole with another layer -of mud, and place a quantity of the saline earth in the centre. Water -is then regularly poured over this earth, and the particles of salt -are carried down through the filter in a liquid state. A pipe made of -bamboo, which had been placed below, leads the liquid into a well dug -at the side, into which it comes clear, pure, and highly saline. This -mixture is now carried off to pans, where it is boiled, until the whole -of the water is evaporated. I cannot say whether the Chinese have any -means of purifying the salt. In Chimoo Bay, the natives evaporate sea -water with the aid of the sun alone, and do not saturate the soil as -they do in Chusan; but there the sea water is perfectly clear. Amongst -the Chusan group of islands the water is yellow and muddy, being -rendered so by the large rivers which are pouring in their waters from -the main land, and more particularly by the Yang-tse-kiang. - -For the following account of the Chinese method of extracting the -tallow from the seeds of the _Stillingia sebifera_ I am indebted to Dr. -Rawes, of the Madras army, who was some time resident in the island of -Chusan:-- - -"The seeds are picked at the commencement of the cold weather, in -November and December, when all the leaves have fallen from the -trees,--this I saw at Singkong when out shooting in the Sah-hoo valley, -close by our quarters through the village. The seeds are in the first -place taken to the building where the process of making the tallow is -carried on, and picked and separated from the stalks. They are then -put into a wooden cylinder, open at the top, but with a perforated -bottom. This is placed over an iron vessel (about the same diameter or -rather larger than the wooden cylinder, and about six or eight inches -deep) containing water, by which means the seeds are well steamed, for -the purpose of softening the tallow and causing it more readily to -separate. The furnace I saw had four or five iron vessels in a row, was -about three feet high, four or five feet broad, and eight or ten feet -long. The fire was placed at one end and fed with the husk of the rice, -dry grass, and such like cheap materials which make a great flame, and -the flue was of course carried directly under the whole of the iron -vessels. - -"When the seeds have steamed ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, they -are thrown into a large stone mortar, and are gently beaten by two men -with stone mallets for the purpose of detaching the tallow from the -other parts of the seed. They are then thrown upon a sieve, heated over -the fire, and sifted, by which process the tallow is separated, or -nearly so, although they generally undergo the process of steaming &c. -a second time that nothing may be lost. The other part of the seed is -ground and pressed for oil. - -"The tallow now resembles coarse linseed meal, but with more white -spots in it, and derives its brown colour from the thin covering over -the seed (between it and the tallow) which is separated by the pounding -and sifting. In this state it is put between circles of twisted straw, -five or six of which are laid upon each other, and thus forming a -hollow cylinder for its reception. When this straw cylinder (we may -call it so) has been filled, it is carried away and placed in the -press, which is a very rude and simple contrivance, but which, like -every thing Chinese, answers the purpose remarkably well. The press -consists of longitudinal beams of considerable thickness, placed about -a foot and a half, or two feet, asunder, with a thick plank at the -bottom, forming a kind of trough, and the whole is bound together with -iron. The tallow is pressed out by means of wedges driven in very -tightly with stone mallets, and passes through a hole in the bottom -of the press into a tub, which is sunk there to receive it. It is now -freed from all impurities, and is a semifluid of a beautiful white -colour, but soon gets solid, and in cold weather is very brittle. The -inside of the tubs which collect the tallow are sprinkled or dusted -over, with a fine red earth, well dried, which prevents the tallow from -adhering to their sides. It is thus easily removed in a solid state -from the tubs, and in this condition the cakes are exposed for sale -in the market. As the candles made from this vegetable tallow have a -tendency to get soft and to melt in hot weather, they are commonly -dipped in wax of various colours, as red, green, and yellow. Those -which are intended for religious purposes are generally very large, and -finely ornamented with golden characters." - -"The cake, or refuse, which remains after the tallow has been pressed -out of it, is used for fuel, or to manure the land, and so is the -refuse from the other part of the seeds from which oil is extracted." - -One of the greatest Lions in Chusan is an old Chinaman, who every -spring hatches thousands of ducks' eggs by artificial heat. His -establishment is situated in the valley on the north side of the city -of Tinghae, and is much resorted to by the officers of the troops and -strangers who visit the island. The first question put to a sight-seer -who comes here is, whether he has seen the hatching process, and if he -has not, he is always recommended to pay a visit to the old Chinaman -and his ducks. - -When I set out upon this excursion for the first time, it was a -beautiful morning in the end of May, just such a morning as we have in -the same month in England, but perhaps a little warmer. The mist and -vapour were rolling lazily along the sides of the hills which surround -the plain on which the city of Tinghae is built; the Chinese, who are -generally early risers, were already proceeding to their daily labours, -and although the greater part of the labouring population are very -poor, yet they seem contented and happy. Walking through the city, and -out at the north gate, I passed through some rice fields, the first -crop of which had been just planted, and a five minutes' walk brought -me to the poor man's cottage. He received me with Chinese politeness; -asked me to sit down, and offered me tea and his pipe, two things -always at hand in a Chinese house, and perfectly indispensable. Having -civilly declined his offer, I asked permission to examine his hatching -house, to which he immediately led the way. - -The Chinese cottages generally are wretched buildings of mud and stone, -with damp earthen floors, scarcely fit for cattle to sleep in, and -remind one of what Scottish cottages were a few years ago, but which -now, happily, are among the things that were. My new friend's cottage -was no exception to the general rule: bad fitting, loose, creaking -doors, paper windows, dirty and torn; ducks, geese, fowls, dogs, and -pigs in the house and at the doors, and apparently having equal rights -with their masters. Then there were children, grand-children, and, for -aught that I know, great-grand-children, all together, forming a most -motley group, which, with their shaved heads, long tails, and strange -costume, would have made a capital subject for the pencil of Cruikshank. - -The hatching-house was built at the side of the cottage, and was a kind -of long shed, with mud walls, and thickly-thatched with straw. Along -the ends and down one side of the building are a number of round straw -baskets, well plastered with mud, to prevent them from taking fire. -In the bottom of each basket there is a tile placed, or rather the -tile forms the bottom of the basket; upon this the fire acts,--a small -fire-place being below each basket. Upon the top of the basket there is -a straw cover, which fits closely, and which is kept shut whilst the -process is going on. In the centre of the shed are a number of large -shelves placed one above another, upon which the eggs are laid at a -certain stage of the process. - -When the eggs are brought, they are put into the baskets, the fire is -lighted below them, and an uniform heat kept up, ranging, as nearly as -I could ascertain by some observations which I made with a thermometer, -from 95° to 102°, but the Chinamen regulate the heat by their own -feelings, and therefore it will of course vary considerably. In four or -five days after the eggs have been subject to this temperature, they -are taken carefully out, one by one, to a door, in which a number of -holes have been bored nearly the size of the eggs; they are then held -against these holes, and the Chinamen look through them, and are able -to tell whether they are good or not. If good, they are taken back, -and replaced in their former quarters; if bad, they are of course -excluded. In nine or ten days after this, that is, about fourteen days -from the commencement, the eggs are taken from the baskets, and spread -out on the shelves. Here no fire-heat is applied, but they are covered -over with cotton, and a kind of blanket, under which they remain about -fourteen days more, when the young ducks burst their shells, and the -shed teems with life. These shelves are large, and capable of holding -many thousands of eggs; and when the hatching takes place, the sight -is not a little curious. The natives who rear the young ducks in the -surrounding country know exactly the day when they will be ready for -removal, and in two days after the shell is burst, the whole of the -little creatures are sold, and conveyed to their new quarters. - - -[1] This description will scarcely agree with those writers who inform -us that such is the persevering industry of the Chinese, that every -inch of ground in China is under cultivation! "Facts, however, are -stubborn things." - -[2] A mode of baking and cooking in use here is ingenious. A large -rice-pan is filled with water, with a fire below it: upon this is -placed a kind of sieve, made of bamboo, and filled with bread or other -articles to be cooked; several of these sieves one above another have -all their contents cooked at the same time, the steam rising through -the lower to the upper ones. The sides of course fit nicely, and -prevent the steam from escaping, and there is a close cover which fits -on to the uppermost one. Our common brick oven is also in use here. - - - - CHAP. VI. - -FIRST VISIT TO NING-PO.--THE BRIDGE OF BOATS.--CITY AND -PAGODA.--MEDICAL MISSIONARY.--TEMPERATURE.--CHINESE MODE OF -KEEPING THEMSELVES WARM.--CHARCOAL STOVES.--MY LODGINGS.--CHINESE -GAMBLERS.--DESCRIPTION OF SHOPS.--SILKS AND EMBROIDERY.--JADE -STONE.--COTTON PRINTING.--ROPE MAKING.--CURIOSITY SHOPS -AND CONTENTS.--"FURNITURE STREET" AND FURNITURE.--BANKING -ESTABLISHMENT.--NO PROSPECT OF FOREIGN TRADE.--TEMPLES, AND -DEVOTION OF SOME OF THE PEOPLE.--DWARFED TREES.--MODE OF DWARFING -EXPLAINED.--MANDARINS' GARDENS VISITED AND DESCRIBED.--VIEW FROM -NORTHERN HILLS.--AGRICULTURE.--NATIVE FLORA OF THESE HILLS.--GRAVES OF -THE DEAD.--COFFINS EXPOSED. - - -I visited Ning-po for the first time in the autumn of 1843. It is a -large town, situated on the main land, nearly west from the Chusan -group of islands, on the east coast of China. It stands about twelve -miles from the sea, at the junction of two fine streams, which by -their union form a noble river capable of being navigated by the -larger vessels and junks. One of these branches runs from the west, -and the other from the south, meeting at Ning-po; and over the latter -the Chinese have constructed a bridge of boats for the traffic with -the suburbs on the opposite shore. This bridge is a most simple and -ingenious contrivance, consisting of a number of large boats moored at -equal distances across the river, forming the basis on which the upper -woodwork rests, and enabling the whole to rise and fall to a certain -extent with the tide. By this means there is sufficient room under the -bridge to allow fishing and passage boats to pass through at all times -of the tide, providing it is not running too strong. At spring tides -the water rushes through these spaces between the boats with great -velocity, and sometimes it is next to impossible to get through. - -[Illustration: CITY OF NINGPO--BRIDGE OF BOATS. - -London, John Murray, Albemarle Street.] - -The city itself is strongly fortified with high walls and ramparts -about five miles round, and the space inside the walls is almost -entirely filled with houses, in most parts densely crowded together. -There are two or three very fine streets; finer, indeed, and wider than -those of any other Chinese town which I have visited. A good view of -the city and the surrounding country, as far as the eye can reach, is -obtained from the top of a pagoda about one hundred and thirty feet -high, having a stair-case inside by which the top can be reached. -(See following page.) This pagoda is named "_Tien-foong-tah_" or -the "Temple of the Heavenly Winds;" it is evidently very old, and, -like many others of the same kind, is in a state of decay. Whenever I -visited this place, the Priests (Budhists) were always in attendance -with their offerings of cake and tea, for which a small gratuity was -expected. - -[Illustration] - -When I first landed at Ning-po, the British consul, Mr. Thom, had not -arrived, and I was quite at a loss where to go, or to whom to apply -for quarters. Leaving my boat and servant on the river, I strolled -away into the city to reconnoitre, thinking that something might turn -up which I could use for my advantage. I was soon surrounded by crowds -of the natives, and amongst them some blackguard boys who had been -corrupted to a great extent by the troops during the war, but who -luckily understood a little of the English language, and were able to -be of essential service to me. They informed me that there was one -"_Hong-mou-jin_"--(red-haired man)--a term which they apply to all -western nations--already in the city, and immediately led the way to -his quarters. When we arrived at the house, I was surprised to find a -former acquaintance. He was an American Medical Missionary, and was -dressed _à la Chinoise_, tail and all complete, but truth compels me -to state that his dress was rather a ludicrous one. Afterwards when -my knowledge of the Chinese costume was more complete, I have often -laughed when I thought of the figure the little doctor must have -appeared in the eyes of the Chinese. The large flowing gown which he -wore was almost too fine for a mandarin, while the hat was one commonly -worn by servants and coolies. The English reader, if he wishes to -understand the strange sort of appearance the doctor presented, must -imagine a London judge clothed in his fine black flowing gown, and -wearing the hat of a dustman. I recollect one evening after dark going -out into one of the main streets, accompanied by the doctor, to see an -offering which was there presented to the Gods, and I soon found that -he in his Chinese dress was a greater object of attention than I was -in my English one. How the Chinese laughed and enjoyed the joke! I had -obtained a room in the same house with my friend, who was visited daily -by great numbers of the Chinese, and who, although not a very good -Chinaman, was most zealous in the cause of medical missions. - -As the winter approached the weather became extremely cold, and -in December and January the ice on the ponds and canals was of -considerable thickness. The most attractive shops in the city now, were -the different clothing establishments, where all articles of wearing -apparel were lined with skins of various kinds, many of them of the -most costly description. The very poorest Chinese has always a warm -jacket or cloak lined with sheep skin, or padded with cotton, for the -winter; and they cannot imagine how the Europeans can exist with the -thin clothing they generally go about in. When the weather was cold, I -used always to wear a stout warm great coat above my other dress, and -yet the Chinese were continually feeling the thickness of my clothes, -and telling me that surely I must feel cold. Their mode of keeping -themselves comfortable in winter, differs entirely from ours: they -rarely or never think of using fires in their rooms for this purpose, -but as the cold increases, they just put on another jacket or two, -until they feel that the warmth of their bodies is not carried off -faster than it is generated. As the raw damp cold of morning gives way -to the genial rays of noon, the upper coats are one by one thrown off, -until evening, when they are again put on. In the spring months, the -upper garments are cast off by degrees, and when the summer arrives, -the Chinese are found clad in thin dresses of cotton, or in the grass -cloth manufactured in the country. In the northern towns the ladies -sometimes use a small brass-stove, like a little oval basket, having -the lid grated to allow the charcoal to burn and the heat to escape; -this they place upon their tables or on the floor, for the purpose -of warming the hands and feet. Nurses also carry these little stoves -in their hands under the feet of the children. Such, however, is the -thickness and warmth of their dresses, that it is only in the coldest -weather they require them. Little children in winter are so covered up, -that they look like bundles of clothes, nearly as broad as they are -long, and when the padding is removed in warm weather, it is difficult -to imagine that you see before you the same individuals. - -I never felt so cold in England as I did during this winter in -the north of China, and yet, as may be seen from the chapter on -temperature, the thermometer did not indicate a very low degree. The -house in which I lived was so open, that the wind rushed in at every -crevice; the windows were large, not glazed, as with us, but papered, -and in many places perfectly open. During the day I got on very well, -as I was always out and moving about from morning until dark. But the -long evenings, with the wind whistling through the windows, and blowing -upon my candle, were dreary and cold enough. - -To vary the monotony of the scene, as well as to warm myself, I used -frequently to take a stroll down the main street. The Chinese, as a -nation, are great gamblers; even the poorest of them cannot resist -the temptation, and in this street after nightfall, there used to be -numerous stalls of oranges, sweetmeats, and trifling curiosities, at -each of which there were dice of some kind, and a "wheel of fortune," -surrounded by the Chinese in great numbers, trying their luck with a -few copper cash, and evincing, by their looks and language, the most -intense interest in the stopping of the wheel, or the throwing of the -dice. - -Besides the shops already noticed for the sale of clothes and skins, -there are many others worthy of our attention. There are a number of -excellent silk shops and warehouses a little off the main street, -which, like our old-established houses at home, have but little -external show to attract notice. Here, too, are large quantities of -that beautiful northern embroidery which is so much admired by all -who have had an opportunity of seeing it. It is entirely different -from that commonly procured at Canton, and much more elaborate and -expensive. A considerable demand for articles of dress which would -be fashionable in England, has induced the Chinese to get them made, -and they are now exposed for sale in all the towns in the north -frequented by the English. Ladies' aprons, scarfs, shawls, work-bags, -and many other articles made up in the English style, and beautifully -embroidered, are the things most in demand. - -The Chinese estimate their celebrated jade stone very highly, and here -there are numerous shops, both for cutting it and exposing it for -sale, carved into all those curious and fantastic forms for which this -people are so well known. The process of cotton printing in its most -simple and original form may be seen in most of the streets here, as -well as in other towns in China. Rope-making is carried on extensively -in the suburbs near the river, and some strong cables and ropes for -junks are made from the bracts of the palm, formerly noticed, and from -the bark of the urticaceous plant, commonly called hemp by the English -in the north of China. There are, of course, the usual quantity of -curiosity shops, containing bamboo ornaments carved into all possible -forms; specimens of ancient porcelain, which are said to "preserve -flowers and fruit from decay for an unusual time," lacquered ware, -and other ornaments brought by the junks from Japan, many beautifully -carved rhinoceros' horns, bronzes, and other articles to which the -Chinese attach great importance, purchasing them at exorbitant rates, -apparently far beyond their value. But what struck me as being most -unique, was a peculiar kind of furniture, made and sold in a street, -generally called "Furniture Street" by foreigners who visit Ning-po. -There were beds, chairs, tables, washing-stands, cabinets and presses, -all peculiarly Chinese in their form, and beautifully inlaid with -different kinds of wood and ivory, representing the people and customs -of the country, and presenting, in fact, a series of pictures of China -and the Chinese. Every one who saw these things admired them, and, what -was rather strange, they seem peculiar to Ning-po, and are not met -with at any of the other five ports, not even in Shanghae. As all this -beautiful work is expensive, it is, of course, only used in the houses -of the wealthy. - -There are some large banking establishments in Ning-po, having -connection with all the other towns in the north, and it is here, -therefore, that the value of money is regulated, the "stocks" rising -and falling exactly as they do in England. There can be little doubt -that it is a place of great wealth. There are a large number of retired -merchants in the city and suburbs, who have made their fortunes in -early life, and who now seek to enjoy themselves amid the luxuries and -retirement of Ning-po. But these circumstances, unfortunately, do not -fit it for a place of active foreign trade; and hence, although it is -large, rich, and populous, our merchants find the northern port of -Shanghae of far greater importance as regards the sale of European and -American manufactures, and the purchase of tea and silk,--the staple -productions of the country. And yet, judging from appearances, one -would think that a considerable foreign trade might be carried on at -Ning-po, as it is in itself a large town, is in the midst of a populous -country, and has excellent water communication with all parts of the -empire. Time, and the perseverance of our merchants, will soon show -whether this supposition is a correct one. - -Many of the temples in this town have been much admired by foreigners, -but I must confess that, to me, the very best of them had a childish -and tinselly appearance, which I could not admire. The one called -the Fokien Temple is best and most showy. The Confucian Temple was -formerly a large and celebrated place, but it was nearly destroyed -during the war, and up to the time when I left China, no attempt had -been made to rebuild it, or put it in a state of repair: the Chinese -seemed to consider that the touch of the _barbarian_ had polluted the -sacred edifice. The Budhists' temples are crowded with painted wooden -images of their gods. The "three precious Budhas," the "past, present, -and future," are generally enormously large, being often thirty or -forty feet in height. To these, and to the numerous small images, the -poor deluded natives bow the knee, burn incense, and engage in other -exercises of devotion. The traveller meets with these temples, or -joss-houses, as they are commonly called, in all the streets, at the -gates of the city, and even on the ramparts, and cannot but admire the -devotional spirit of the inhabitants, although he may wish that it was -directed to a higher and purer object. I have often looked on, when -these simple people,--the women more particularly,--seemed actually, -like Jacob of old, "wrestling with God in prayer," and using various -means to ascertain whether the mind of the Deity had softened towards -them, and granted their requests. Two small pieces of wood, flat on one -side and rounded on the other, are generally used to accomplish this -end; these are thrown up in the air, and if they fall on the desired -side, it was well; if not, some more incense was burned, and again and -again they prostrated themselves before the altar, and seemed engaged -in earnest prayer. Many of their religious ceremonies have a great -resemblance to those of the Roman Catholic church, and I remember being -much struck on a Sunday afternoon, when passing out at one of the city -gates, by hearing the sounds of prayer and praise, not unlike those of -the Christian churches of other lands. I immediately walked into the -place from whence the sounds came, and found, to my disappointment, -that it was one of the numerous temples with which the city abounds, -and that the sounds of praise which fell upon my ears, were only -addressed to the gods of the heathen. But many of these temples are -in a most ruinous state, and are evidently not so well supported now -as they have been at some former time. In fact, the town of Ning-po -itself, with all its riches, and all its advantages, has been in a -decaying state for years, and is one example, amongst many others, of -the truth of what I formerly stated concerning the general state of -this country. - -My first business, when I reached Ning-po, was to make inquiries -regarding the gardens of the Mandarins, which I had heard something of -from the officers who were there when the city was taken by the English -troops, during the war. I had the same difficulties to encounter as -I had at Amoy, owing to the jealousy of the Chinese. Ultimately, -however, these too were overcome, and I obtained access to several -Mandarins' gardens and nurseries, out of which several new plants were -procured, which proved very valuable additions to my collections. Here, -as at other places, I made many inquiries after the supposed yellow -camellia, and offered ten dollars to any Chinaman who would bring me -one. Anything can be had in China for dollars! and it was not long -before two plants were brought to me, one of which was said to be light -yellow, and the other as deep a colour as the double yellow rose. Both -had flower-buds upon them, but neither were in bloom. I felt quite -certain that the Chinaman was deceiving me, and it seemed foolish to -pay such a sum for plants which I should in all probability have to -throw away afterwards; and yet I could not make up my mind to lose the -chance, slight as it was, of possessing the _yellow camellia_. And the -rogue did his business so well. He had a written label stuck in each -pot, and _apparently_ the writing and labels had been there for some -years. I fancied I was as cunning as he was, and requested him to leave -the plants and return on the following morning, when he should have an -answer. In the meantime I asked a respectable Chinese merchant to read -the writing upon the labels. All was correct; the writing agreed with -what the man had told me; namely, that one of the plants produced light -yellow blooms, and the other deep yellow. "Did you ever see a camellia -with yellow flowers?" I inquired of my friend the merchant. "No," said -he, in his broken English. "_My never have seen he, my thinkie no -have got_" On the following morning the owner of the plant presented -himself, and asked me if I had made up my mind upon the subject. I told -him that I would take the plants to Hong-kong, where I was going at -the time; that they would soon flower there; and that, if they proved -_yellow_, he should have his money. This, however, he would not consent -to; and at last we compromised the matter, I agreeing to pay half the -money down, and the other half when the plants flowered, providing -they were "true." On these conditions I got the camellias, and took -them with me to Hong-kong. It is almost needless to say that when they -flowered there was nothing yellow about them but the stamens, for they -were both semi-double worthless kinds. - -The gardens of the Mandarins in the city of Ning-po are very pretty -and unique; they contain a choice selection of the ornamental trees -and shrubs of China, and generally a considerable number of dwarf -trees. Many of the latter are really curious, and afford another -example of the patience and ingenuity of this people. Some of the -specimens are only a few inches high, and yet seem hoary with age. -Not only are they trained to represent old trees in miniature, but -some are made to resemble the fashionable pagodas of the country, and -others different kinds of animals, amongst which the deer seems to be -the favourite. Junipers are generally chosen for the latter purpose, -as they can be more readily bent into the desired form; the eyes and -tongue are added afterwards, and the representation altogether is -really good. One of the Mandarins of Ning-po, anxious, I suppose, to -confer some mark of especial favour upon me, presented me with one of -these animals,--plants, I should say;--but as it was of no real use to -me, and as my collections of other things were large, I was obliged to -decline his present, which he evidently considered of great value, and -no doubt wondered at my want of taste. - -Another example will show the passion which exists amongst the -Chinese for things of this kind. When I was travelling on the hills -of Hong-kong, a few days after my first arrival in China, I met with -a most curious dwarf _Lycopodium_, which I dug up and carried down -to Messrs. Dent's garden, where my other plants were at the time. -"Hai-yah," said the old compradore, when he saw it, and was quite in -raptures of delight. All the other coolies and servants gathered round -the basket to admire this curious little plant. I had not seen them -evince so much gratification since I showed them the "old man Cactus" -(_Cereus senilis_), which I took out from England, and presented to -a Chinese nurseryman at Canton. On asking them why they prized the -Lycopodium so much, they replied, in Canton English, "_Oh, he too -muchia hemdsome; he grow only a leete and a leete every year; and -suppose he be one hundred year oula, he only so high_" holding up their -hands an inch or two higher than the plant. This little plant is really -very pretty, and often naturally takes the very form of a dwarf tree in -miniature, which is doubtless the reason of its being such a favourite -with the Chinese. - -The dwarfed trees of the Chinese and Japanese have been noticed by -every author who has written upon these countries, and all have -attempted to give some description of the method by which the effect -is produced. The process is in reality a very simple one, and is based -upon one of the commonest principles of vegetable physiology. We all -know that any thing which retards in any way the free circulation -of the sap, also prevents to a certain extent the formation of wood -and leaves. This may be done by grafting, by confining the roots, -withholding water, bending the branches, or in a hundred other ways -which all proceed upon the same principle. This principle is perfectly -understood by the Chinese, and they make nature subservient to this -particular whim of theirs. We are told that the first part of the -process is to select the very smallest seeds from the smallest plants, -which is not at all unlikely, but I cannot speak to the fact from -my own observation. I have, however, often seen Chinese gardeners -selecting suckers and plants for this purpose from the other plants -which were growing in their garden. Stunted varieties were generally -chosen, particularly if they had the side branches opposite or regular, -for much depends upon this; a one-sided dwarf tree is of no value in -the eyes of the Chinese. The main stem was then in most cases twisted -in a zigzag form, which process checked the flow of the sap, and at -the same time encouraged the production of side branches at those -parts of the stem where they were most desired. When these suckers had -formed roots in the open ground, or kind of nursery where they were -planted, they were looked over and the best taken up for potting. The -same principles, which I have already noticed, were still kept in view, -the pots used being narrow and shallow, so that they held but a small -quantity of soil compared with the wants of the plants, and no more -water being given than what was barely sufficient to keep them alive. -Whilst the branches were forming, they were tied down and twisted -in various ways; the points of the leaders and strong growing ones -were generally nipped out, and every means were taken to discourage -the production of young shoots which were possessed of any degree of -vigour. Nature generally struggles against this treatment for a while, -until her powers seem in a great measure exhausted, when she quietly -yields to the power of art. The Chinese gardener, however, must be ever -on the watch, for should the roots of his plants get through the pots -into the ground, or happen to be liberally supplied with moisture, or -should the young shoots be allowed to grow in their natural position -for a short time, the vigour of the plant which has so long been -lost will be restored, and the fairest specimen of Chinese dwarfing -destroyed. Sometimes, as in the case of peach and plum trees, which are -often dwarfed, the plants are thrown into a flowering state, and then, -as they flower freely year after year, they have little inclination to -make vigorous growth. The plants generally used in dwarfing are pines, -junipers, cypresses, bamboos, peach and plum trees, and a species of -small-leaved elm. - -Amongst the Mandarins' gardens, in the city of Ning-po, there is one -in particular which is generally visited by all strangers, and is -much admired. It is situated near the lake in the centre of the city. -The old man to whom it belongs has long retired from trade with an -independent fortune, and he now enjoys his declining years in the -peaceful pursuits of gardening, and is passionately fond of flowers. -Both his house and garden are unique in their way, but they are most -difficult to describe, and must be seen to be appreciated. In this -part of the country the building of artificial rockwork is so well -understood, that the resemblance to nature is perfect, and it forms a -principal feature in every garden. This old gentleman has the different -parts of his house joined together by rude-looking caverns, and what at -first sight appears to be a subterraneous passage, leading from room to -room, through which the visitor passes to the garden, which lies behind -the house. The small courts, of which a glimpse is caught in passing -through, are fitted up with this rockwork; dwarf trees are planted -here and there in various places, and creepers hang down naturally -and gracefully until their ends touch the little ponds of water which -are always placed in front of the rockwork. These small places being -passed, we are again led through passages like those already noticed, -when the garden, with its dwarf trees, vases, rockwork, ornamental -windows, and beautiful flowering shrubs, is suddenly opened to the view. - -It must be understood, however, that all which I have now described -is very limited in extent, but the most is made of it by windings and -glimpses through rockwork, and arches in the walls, as well as by -hiding the boundary with a mass of shrubs and trees. - -Here old Dr. Chang--I believe that was his name--was spending the -evening of his days in peaceful retirement. When I called upon him he -was extremely polite, and, after making a great many very low bows, -requested me to take the seat of honour by his side. The servants -were then ordered to bring tea, a beverage which is offered to every -stranger, and which was of the very finest description. Messengers were -sent round to all the old man's particular friends, who each hurried -to see the foreigner. One by one they dropt in, until the room was -nearly full. The servants, who seemed to think themselves quite as good -as their masters, mixed with the company, and made their remarks upon -me with the greatest freedom. Every thing about me was examined and -criticised most minutely, particularly my watch, which they seemed to -admire very much. I was frequently requested, as a great favour, to -allow them to see the works, and to hold it to their ears, in order -that they might hear the sound which it made. The old mandarin now -led me round his house, and showed me all the curiosities which it -contained, and of which he was a great collector. Old bronzes, carved -woods, specimens of porcelain, and other articles of that kind, were -arranged with great taste in several of the rooms. From the house we -proceeded to the garden, but as it was winter, and the trees leafless, -I could form but little idea of the rarity or beauty of the plants -which it contained. I took my leave, after drinking some more tea, -promising to visit the old man again whenever I returned to Ning-po. - -I visited also at this time several other Mandarins who had gardens, -and from all of them I received the greatest civility. Some small -articles which I brought out with me as presents were of the greatest -use, not only in procuring me a civil reception, but also in enabling -me to get plants or cuttings of rare species which were only found in -the gardens of the rich, and which, of course, were not for sale. - -The level plain on which the city of Ning-po is built is at least -thirty miles across, surrounded on all sides by a circle of hills, but -opening on the east to the sea, where the town of Chinhae stands, and -forms, as it were, the sea-port town of Ning-po. The view from the -hills is very fine--the broad extensive plain forming, as it were, a -vast amphitheatre, traversed by beautiful winding rivers and by canals -in all directions; thus enabling the natives to convey the produce -of their country and its merchandise to Ning-po, and from thence to -Hang-chow-foo, and any other part of the world. Rice is the staple -production of the low land in this part of the country during the -summer months, and the oil plant is cultivated extensively on the same -land in winter and spring, being in seed and ready to harvest by the -time for sowing the first crop of rice. Large quantities of the trefoil -which I have noticed before are also grown here, and for the same -purposes; indeed, the agricultural productions, both of the low lands -and on the sides of the hills, are really the same as those formerly -described on the island of Chusan. - -The native flora of the hills to the north of Ning-po is nearly the -same as that found on Chusan and the neighbouring islands, but more -extensive. It is a curious fact, that I always found the main land -of China more productive in species of animals and plants than the -neighbouring islands, although these islands were large, and only -separated from the main land by a narrow extent of sea. I met here, for -the first time in a wild state, the beautiful yellow _Azalea sinensis_. -These hills are somewhat more barren than most of the others in this -part of the country, and there are few trees on them of any size. They -are very different from those which I have yet to describe, a few miles -to the south of Ning-po. - -The graves of the dead are scattered all over the plain, and give the -stranger a good idea of the immense population of the country. In -travelling from Ning-po to the hills, I could not account for the vast -number of tombs which I met with on my way; but when I reached the -summit of the hills, and looked down upon the wide-spreading plain, -covered with towns and villages in all directions, densely peopled -with human beings, it was easily accounted for. Here, as at Chusan and -Shanghae, the traveller is continually coming upon coffins placed on -the surface of the ground, and in many instances decaying, and exposing -the skeleton remains of the dead. I was much struck by frequently -meeting with large numbers of coffins piled one above another, in heaps -of from thirty to forty, chiefly those of young children. I was told -that they are buried periodically, but from their appearance many of -them must have remained in the same place for years, and their tenants -must long ago have mouldered into dust. - - - - CHAP. VII. - -REMARKS ON THE CHINESE LANGUAGE.--ICE-HOUSES NEAR NING-PO -DESCRIBED.--THEIR SIMPLICITY AND UTILITY.--NOVEL MODES OF -FISHING.--FISHING CORMORANTS MET WITH.--THEIR ACTIONS DESCRIBED.--TWO -PAIRS PURCHASED.--ACCOUNT OF THEIR FOOD AND HABITS. - - -In sailing up the river towards _Ning-po_, I observed a great number of -thatched houses, and desired my Chinese servant to go to the boatman -and inquire what they were. He went immediately to the man at the helm, -and, after a conversation of at least ten minutes' duration, came back -hanging his head, and slunk away without reporting the result of his -inquiries. "Well," said I, "what is the use of all these houses which -we now see on the shore?" With all the gravity in the world, he replied -that the boatman said they were places built to keep Chinese soldiers -in during the cold winter months. "Nonsense," said I, "they cannot fill -all these places with soldiers." "_Well,_" said he, "_he have talkie -my so fashion._" As I could not conceive this to be true, I went to -the man myself, and with the little knowledge of the language which -I then possessed, soon found out that the buildings in question were -ice-houses, for which commodity, he informed me, there was a great -demand daring the summer months. This shows that the Chinese language -differs so much in different provinces, that a native of Canton and -another in the north cannot understand each other: and indeed this is -so much the case, that my Macao servant was almost entirely useless -to me in the north, in so far as the language was concerned. In this -instance the Chinese word "_Ping_"--or I should rather say sound--means -both soldier and ice, and it immediately struck my servant, who I -suppose had never seen ice in his life, that the buildings in question -were soldiers' houses instead of ice-houses; rather cold barracks, I -should think. - -I was much struck with the simplicity of the construction of these -ice-houses, and my only doubt about them was whether or not the ice -would keep well in them throughout the hot summer months. The results -of my investigation I sent in the following letter to Professor -Lindley, who published it in the "Gardener's Chronicle" for 1845:-- - -"A short time before I left England, you published in the 'Gardener's -Chronicle' a number of letters and plans for the construction of -ice-houses, but, as far as I can remember, nothing at all resembling -the Chinese one which I shall now describe to you. On the right bank of -the Ning-po river, above the town and fort of Chinhae, and in various -other parts of the north of China, I have met with these ice-houses. -When I inspected them for the first time last winter (1843), their -construction and situation differed so much from what I had been -accustomed to see at home,--differing, too, in things which I used to -consider as indispensable to an ice-house,--that I had great doubts -regarding their efficiency; but at the present time, which is now the -end of August, 1844, many of these houses are yet full of ice, and -seem to answer the end most admirably. You are probably aware, from my -former descriptions of the country, that the town of Ning-po stands in -the midst of a level plain from twenty to thirty miles across. These -ice-houses are built on the sides of the river in the centre of the -plain, completely exposed to the sun--a sun, too, very different in -its effects from what we experience in England,--clear, fierce, and -burning, which would try the efficiency of our best English ice-houses -as well as it does the constitution of an Englishman in China. - -[Illustration: Ice-houses near Ning-Po.] - -"The bottom of these ice-houses is nearly on a level with the -surrounding fields, and is generally about twenty yards long, by -fourteen broad. The walls, which are built of mud and stone, are very -thick, twelve feet in height, and are, in fact, a kind of embankment -rather than walls, having a door on one side level with the floor, for -the removal of the ice, and a kind of sloping terrace on the other, by -which the ice can be thrown into the house. On the top of the walls -or embankment a tall span roof is raised, constructed of bamboo, -thickly thatched with straw, and in appearance exactly like an English -haystack. And this is the simple structure which keeps ice so well -during the summer months, and under the burning sun of China! - -"The Chinaman, with his characteristic ingenuity, manages also to fill -his ice-houses in a most simple way, and at a very trifling expense. -Around the house he has a small flat level field connected with the -river. This field he takes care to flood in winter before the cold -weather comes on. The water then freezes and furnishes the necessary -supply of ice at the very door. Again in spring these same fields are -ploughed up and planted with rice, and the water which drains from the -bottom of the ice-house helps to nourish the young crop. Of course -here, as in England, when the house is filled the ice is carefully -covered up with a thick coating of straw. Thus the Chinaman, with -little expense in building his ice-house, and an economical mode of -filling it, manages to secure an abundant supply for preserving his -fish during the hot summer months. - -"It now, I think, becomes a question whether we could not build -ice-houses at less expense and more efficient, upon the Chinese -plan, than upon the old under-ground system common in England. The -accompanying sketch will enable you to form an idea of the appearance -which these ice-houses present to the traveller, in going up the -Ning-po river. _Ning-po, August_, 1844." - -Since this letter was published I have had frequent opportunities of -testing the qualities of the Chinese ice-house, both at Ning-po and -also at Chusan and Shanghae, and I have found that it answers the -purpose admirably. The winter of 1844-1845 was unusually mild in this -part of China; little or no ice was formed on the ponds and canals, -and of course the ice-houses could not be filled; but many of them -contained large quantities which had been laid up the year before, and -by this means the market was supplied with ice which had been in store -at least a year and a half, and would probably have kept some time -longer. - -This ice is of great importance to the Chinese, who depend so much for -their food upon the fish which is caught in their waters. They are -enabled by this means to keep their fish during the hottest weather for -a considerable time, and transmit them in this way to different parts -of the country. - -Immense quantities of fish are daily caught in the river above the -town. Their mode of catching them is ingenious and amusing. One day I -was going up a considerable distance in a boat, and set out a little -before low water, that I might have the full benefit of the flow of the -tide, and get as far up as possible before it turned. On the side of -the river, a few miles above Ning-po, I observed some hundreds of small -boats anchored, each containing two or three men; and the tide turning -just as I passed, the whole fleet was instantly in motion, rowing and -sculling up the river with the greatest rapidity. As soon as the men -reached a favourable part of the stream they cast out their nets and -began to make a loud noise, splashing with their oars and sculls, -with the intention, I suppose, of driving the fish into the nets. -After remaining in this spot for about a quarter of an hour, all the -boats set off again, farther up, for the next station, when the crew -commenced again in the same noisy manner, and so on, for a long way up -the river, as long as the tide was flowing; they then returned with the -ebb, loaded with fishes for the next morning's market. - -There is another mode of catching fish, which I have frequently seen -in the northern provinces, even more curious than that which I have -just noticed. Every one acquainted with Chinese history knows that -fish abound in all the rivers and lakes of the north; indeed, every -little pond swarms with them. I was greatly surprised when I first -saw the fish-catcher following his profession in these places. He is -literally amphibious. He is to be seen perfectly naked, half walking, -half swimming; now he raises his arms and hands above his head, and, -bringing them down, strikes a sharp blow upon the water, making a loud -and splashing noise. His feet are not idle: they warn him that a fish -is at hand, and they are now feeling for him amongst the mud at the -bottom of the pond. The next moment the fisherman has disappeared: he -is now under water, and he remains so long that you think something has -happened to him. There is, however, no cause of fear; a few seconds -more and he appears, rubbing his face and eyes with one hand, and in -the other triumphantly holding up the poor little fish which he has -just captured. It is immediately placed safely in his basket, and -the work goes on as before. The surface of the water is struck and -splashed, as I have just described, in order to frighten the fish which -are swimming amongst the feet of the Chinamen. Being frightened, they -dive immediately to the bottom amongst the mud, where they are felt by -the feet, and are soon taken by these expert divers. - -But the most singular of all the methods of catching fish in China is -that of training and employing a large species of cormorant for this -purpose, generally called the fishing cormorant. These are certainly -wonderful birds. I have frequently met with them on the canals and -lakes in the interior, and, had I not seen with my own eyes their -extraordinary docility, I should have had great difficulty in bringing -my mind to believe what authors have said about them. The first time I -saw them was on a canal a few miles from Ning-po. I was then on my way -to a celebrated temple in that quarter, where I intended to remain for -some time, in order to make collections of objects of natural history -in the neighbourhood. When the birds came in sight I immediately made -my boatmen take in our sail, and we remained stationary for some time -to observe their proceedings. There were two small boats, containing -one man and about ten or twelve birds in each. The birds were standing -perched on the sides of the little boat, and apparently had just -arrived at the fishing ground, and were about to commence operations. -They were now ordered out of the boats by their masters; and so well -trained were they, that they went on the water immediately, scattered -themselves over the canal, and began to look for fish. They have a -beautiful sea-green eye, and, quick as lightning, they see and dive -upon the finny tribe, which, once caught in the sharp-notched bill of -the bird, never by any possibility can escape. The cormorant now rises -to the surface with the fish in its bill, and the moment he is seen -by the Chinaman he is called back to the boat. As docile as a dog, -he swims after his master, and allows himself to be pulled into the -San-pan, where he disgorges his prey, and again resumes his labours. -And, what is more wonderful still, if one of the cormorants gets hold -of a fish of large size, so large that he would have some difficulty in -taking it to the boat, some of the others, seeing his dilemma, hasten -to his assistance, and with their efforts united capture the animal -and haul him off to the boat. Sometimes a bird seemed to get lazy or -playful, and swam about without attending to his business; and then -the Chinaman, with a long bamboo, which he also used for propelling -the boat, struck the water near where the bird was, without, however, -hurting him, calling out to him at the same time in an angry tone. -Immediately, like the truant school-boy who neglects his lessons and -is found out, the cormorant gives up his play and resumes his labours. -A small string is put round the neck of the bird, to prevent him from -swallowing the fish which he catches; and great care is taken that this -string is placed and fastened so that it will not slip farther down -upon his neck and choke him, which otherwise it would be very apt to do. - -Since I first saw these birds on the Ning-po canal I have had -opportunities of inspecting them and their operations in many other -parts of China, more particularly in the country between the towns of -Hang-chow-foo and Shanghae. I also saw great numbers of them on the -river Min, near Foo chow-foo. I was most anxious to get some living -specimens, that I might take them home to England. Having great -difficulty in inducing the Chinese to part with them, or, indeed, to -speak at all on the subject, when I met them in the country, owing to -our place of meeting being generally in those parts of the interior -where the English are never seen, I applied to Her Majesty's Consul at -Shanghae (Captain Balfour), who very kindly sent one of the Chinese -connected with the Consulate into the country, and procured two pairs -for me. The difficulty now was to provide food for them on the voyage -from Shanghae to Hong-kong. We procured a large quantity of live eels, -this being a principal part of their food, and put them into ajar -of mud and fresh water. These they eat in a most voracious manner, -swallowing them whole, and in many instances vomiting them afterwards. -If one bird was unlucky enough to vomit his eel, he was fortunate -indeed if he caught it again, for another, as voracious as himself, -would instantly seize it, and swallow it in a moment. Often they would -fight stoutly for the fish, and then it either became the property of -one, or, as often happened, their sharp bills divided the prey, and -each ran off and devoured the half which fell to his share. During the -passage down we encountered a heavy gale at sea, and as the vessel was -one of those small clipper schooners, she pitched and rolled very much, -shipping seas from bow to stern, which set every thing on her decks -swimming. I put my head out of the cabin-door when the gale was at its -height, and the first thing I saw was the cormorants devouring the -eels, which were floating all over the decks. I then knew that the jar -must have been turned over or smashed to pieces, and that of course all -the eels which escaped the bills of the cormorants were now swimming -in the ocean. After this I was obliged to feed them upon any thing on -board which I could find: but when I arrived at Hong-kong they were not -in very good condition: two of them died soon after; and as there was -no hope of taking the others home alive, I was obliged to kill them and -preserve their skins. - -The Chinaman from whom I bought these birds has a large establishment -for fishing and breeding the birds about thirty or forty miles from -Shanghae, and between that town and Chapoo. They sell at a high price -even amongst the Chinese themselves--I believe from six to eight -dollars per pair, that is, from 30_s_. to 40_s_. As I was anxious -to learn something of their food and habits, Mr. Medhurst, jun., -interpreter to the British Consulate at Shanghae, kindly undertook -to put some questions to the man who brought them, and sent me the -following notes connected with this subject:-- - -"The fish-catching birds eat small fish, yellow eels, and pulse-jelly. -At 5 P. M. every day each bird will eat six taels (eight ounces) of -eels or fish, and a catty of pulse-jelly. They lay eggs after three -years, and in the fourth or fifth month. Hens are used to incubate -the eggs. When about to lay their faces turn red, and then a good hen -must be prepared. The date must be clearly written upon the shells of -the eggs laid, and they will hatch in twenty-five days. When hatched, -take the young and put them upon cotton, spread upon some warm water, -and feed them with eel's blood for five days. After five days they can -be fed with eel's flesh chopped fine, and great care must be taken in -watching them. - -"When fishing, a straw tie must be put upon their necks, to prevent -them from swallowing the fish when they catch them. In the eighth or -ninth month of the year they will daily descend into the water at ten -o'clock in the morning, and catch fish until five in the afternoon, -when they will come on shore. They will continue to go on in this way -until the third month, after which time they cannot fish until the -eighth month comes round again. The male is easily known from the -female, in being generally a larger bird, and in having a darker and -more glossy feather, but more particularly in the size of the head, the -head of the male being large and that of the female small." - -Such are the habits of this extraordinary bird. As the months named in -the note just quoted refer to the Chinese calendar, it follows that -these birds do not fish in the summer months, but commence in autumn, -about October, and end about May--periods agreeing nearly with the -eighth and third month of the Chinese year. - - - - CHAP. VIII. - -SHANGHAE VISITED AT THE END OF 1843.--MY LODGINGS.--PREJUDICES AND -SUPERSTITIONS OF THE INHABITANTS.--THE CITY DESCRIBED.--SHOPS AND -MERCHANDISE.--FOOD.--AN IMPORTANT STATION FOR FOREIGN TRADE.--THE -EXPORTS OF THE COUNTRY; TEAS AND SILK EASILY BROUGHT TO IT.--THE -ADJACENT COUNTRY DESCRIBED.--ITS CANALS.--AGRICULTURE.--TOMBS OF -THE DEAD.--TREES AND SHRUBS.--GARDENS AND NURSERIES.--DIFFICULTY -OF ACCESS TO THEM.--CUNNING AND DECEIT OF THE CHINESE.--A CHINESE -DINNER.--THEATRICALS. - - -Shanghae is the most northerly of the five ports at which foreigners -are now permitted to trade with the Chinese. It is situated about a -hundred miles, in a north-west direction, from the island of Chusan. -The city stands on the bank of a fine river, about twelve miles from -the point where it joins the celebrated Yang-tse-kiang, or "Child -of the Ocean." The Shanghae river, as it is generally called by -foreigners, is as wide at Shanghae as the Thames at London Bridge. Its -main channel is deep, and easily navigated when known, but the river -abounds in long mud-banks, dangerous to large foreign vessels unless -they happen to go up with a fair wind, and manage to get a good pilot -on board at the entrance of the river. - -I visited this place for the first time at the end of 1843, as soon as -the port was opened by Her Majesty's Consul, Captain Balfour, and took -up my quarters in a kind of bank or government shroff establishment, -in company with two or three gentlemen who were here for purposes of -trade. As none of us carried a cooking establishment with us, our -meals were necessarily of the roughest description, neither exactly -Chinese nor English, but something between the two. Our bed-rooms -were miserably cold: often, in the mornings, we would find ourselves -drenched in bed with the rain; and if snow fell, it was blown through -the windows and formed "_wreaths_" on the floor. Nevertheless, the -excitement produced on our minds by every thing around us kept us in -excellent health and in good spirits, and we made light of many things -which in other circumstances we might have considered as hardships. -Whenever we moved out of the house hundreds of people crowded the -streets, and followed in our wake, as anxious to catch a glimpse of us -as the crowds in London are to see the Queen. Every door and window was -crammed with men, women, and children, who gazed upon us with a kind of -stupid wonder, as if we had been inhabitants of the moon, and not the -ordinary sons of earth. The children more particularly looked upon us -with a kind of fear and dread, doubtless implanted in their young minds -by their parents, who had less or more of the same feelings themselves. -The name we bore--_Kwei-tsz_, or devil's child--was also calculated to -produce erroneous impressions, particularly on the minds of the young, -and make them regard us with superstitious horror. In these times it -was quite common for us to hear such expressions as the following: "The -devil's children are coming," or "Come and see a devil's child;" and -not infrequently "Kwei-tsz" was called out to us in derision. Several -complaints were made of this conduct to the British Consul by parties -who believed it to be very bad policy at the first commencement of -the trade to submit to any marks of contempt, however slight; and -strong remonstrances were promptly made by him to the Taoutae, or head -Mandarin, of Shanghae. This policy was the very best which could have -been pursued with the Chinese authorities; and the consequence was, -that in a very short time the offensive appellation was rarely heard -in the streets of Shanghae; and if some little urchin, remembering -the lesson so early taught him, came out with it unawares, he was -immediately rebuked by the respectable part of the bystanders. - -The following incident shows the kind of superstitious dread in which -we were held by the inhabitants. A friend and myself were asked to -a dinner given on board one of the vessels in the river, and as the -cabin was much more comfortable than our cheerless, fireless rooms on -shore, we remained until nearly eleven o'clock. Not only are the gates -of a Chinese town closed after dark, but all communication even with -the streets in the suburbs is cut off by numerous gates and doors, -which are fastened up about ten or eleven o'clock at night. This has -doubtless been a very ancient custom, to prevent any sudden surprise by -an enemy, or by the unruly populace themselves, and is still kept up -in more peaceful times. When, therefore, we landed, we found all the -gates in the suburbs closed and locked; and we had to pass through one -at least before we could reach our quarters. Not a sound was heard; -every house was closed; and all that dense multitude which thronged -the street by day had sunk into repose. "How shall we get through?" -said my friend. "Shake the gate," said I; "perhaps the noise will bring -some one; or perchance, as it seems pretty old, it may give way." We -took hold of the gate and gave it a good shake, calling out at the -same time for some one to come and open it. The watchman's light was -now seen coming towards us, and my friend again called out to him to -make haste. At last two men with their lanterns came up, in that dreamy -state which I have already noticed as a characteristic feature in the -Chinese race, and muffled up with skins, as the night was very cold. -They could not see distinctly who were on the other side of the door; -and, as we mumbled a word or two of Chinese, they were put completely -off their guard, and supposed we were benighted Chinamen. The bolts -were drawn, the door opened, and behold, two of the dreaded "red-haired -race" stood before them. I shall never forget their astonishment when -they got their eyes upon us after the gate was opened: and whether -they actually believed us to be beings of another world, or supposed -we had another army at our back to take the city a second time, it is -impossible to say, but quick as lightning they both turned their backs -and fled, leaving us to shut the gates or admit an army, if we chose. -We walked quietly home, and neither saw nor heard any thing more of the -bold guardians of the night. - -The city of Shanghae is surrounded with high walls and ramparts built -upon the same plan as all other Chinese fortifications of this kind. -The circumference of the walls is about three and a half miles, and -the greater part of the inside is densely studded with houses; the -suburbs, particularly all along the side of the river, are very -extensive. Although the gates of the city are closed soon after dark, -the people are allowed to pass through afterwards on the payment of a -few "cash." When the gate is opened to one, a whole crowd are ready to -rush through along with him, the first only paying the "cash." Such -is the custom, so that if a poor man comes to the gate he has only to -wait until one richer than himself arrives, when, the fee being paid, -they pass through together. Joss-houses are met with in all directions, -both in the city and suburbs; at certain parts on the ramparts, also, -these temples are built and crowded with idols, where the natives come -to burn incense, bow the knee, and engage in the other ceremonies of -heathen idol worship. Fortune-tellers and jugglers are also in great -request, and reap a rich harvest by working upon the credulity of their -countrymen. You meet these characters in all the streets and public -squares in Shanghae, and, what is very strange, the _sing-song_ or -theatricals, of which the Chinese are particularly fond, are frequently -exhibited in the temples. This is much opposed to our ideas of religion -and propriety; but, somehow or other, the customs of our Celestial -friends are in many instances directly opposed to ours. - -The streets are generally very narrow, and in the day time are crowded -with people actively engaged in business. The merchandise, which is -the most striking to a stranger walking through the streets, is the -silk and embroidery, such as I formerly noticed at Ning-po, cotton and -cotton goods, porcelain, ready-made clothes of all kinds beautifully -lined with skins and fur, bamboo pipes six feet long and nicely -arranged in the shops, pictures, bronzes, and numerous curiosity shops -for the sale of carved bamboo ornaments, old pieces of porcelain, and -things of that kind, to which the Chinese attach great value. But -articles of food form of course the most extensive trade of all; and -it is sometimes a difficult matter to get through the streets for the -immense quantities of fish, pork, fruit, and vegetables which crowd -the stands in front of the shops. Besides the more common kinds of -vegetables, the shepherds' purse, and a kind of trefoil or clover, are -extensively used amongst the natives here; and really these things, -when properly cooked, more particularly the latter, are not bad. -Dining-rooms, tea-houses, and bakers' shops, are met with at every -step, from the poor man who carries his kitchen or bakehouse upon his -back, and beats upon a piece of bamboo to apprise the neighbourhood -of his presence, and whose whole establishment is not worth a dollar, -to the most extensive tavern or tea-garden crowded with hundreds of -customers. For a few cash (1000 or 1200 = one dollar) a Chinese can -dine in a sumptuous manner upon his rice, fish, vegetables, and tea; -and I fully believe, that in no country in the world is there less real -misery and want than in China. The very beggars seem a kind of jolly -crew, and are kindly treated by the inhabitants. - -[Illustration: RIVER AT SHANGHAE - -London, John Murray, Albemarle Street.] - -Shanghae is by far the most important station for foreign trade on the -coast of China, and is consequently attracting a large share of public -attention. No other town with which I am acquainted possesses such -advantages: it is the great gate--the principal entrance, in fact--to -the Chinese empire. In going up the river towards the town, a forest -of masts meets the eye, and shows at once that it is a place of vast -native trade. Junks come here from all parts of the coast, not only -from the southern provinces, but also from Shantung and Peechelee: -there are also a considerable number annually from Singapore and the -Malay Islands. The convenience of inland transit is also unrivalled -in any part of the world. The country, being as it were the valley of -the Yang-tse-kiang, is one vast plain, intersected by many beautiful -rivers, and these again joined and crossed by canals, many of them -nearly natural, and others stupendous works of art. Owing to the level -nature of the country, the tide ebbs and flows a great distance inland, -thus assisting the natives in the transmission of their exports to -Shanghae, or their imports to the most distant parts of the country. -The port of Shanghae swarms with boats of all sizes, employed in this -inland traffic; and the traveller continually meets them, and gets a -glimpse of their sails over the land, at every step of his progress in -the interior. Since the port has been opened these boats bring down -large quantities of tea and silk to supply the wants of our merchants -who have established themselves here, and return loaded with the -manufactures of Europe and America, which they have taken in exchange. -Our plain cotton goods are most in demand amongst the Chinese, because -they can dye them in their own peculiar style, and fit them for the -tastes of the people. From what we know of the geographical nature of -the country, there can be no doubt that all the green teas, and perhaps -the greatest portion of the black, can be brought to Shanghae at less -expense than they can be taken to Canton, or any of the other southern -towns, except, perhaps, Ning-po; and as the tea-men incur less risk in -taking their money home from the North, owing to the peaceable nature -of the inhabitants, this will be another very great inducement to -bring their teas to Shanghae. I am aware that people generally suppose -the black-tea districts to be nearer the port of Foo-chow-foo than -either Ning-po or Shanghae; but it must be recollected that very few -of the black teas now imported to England are from the Bohee hills, -as these teas are considered coarser, and much inferior in quality to -other kinds, which are from a very different country, much farther to -the north, and on the northern side of the great mountain range. The -large silk districts of Northern China are close at hand; and there -can be no doubt that a large proportion of that commodity in a raw -state will be disposed of at Shanghae. Taking, therefore, all these -facts into consideration--the proximity of Shanghae to the large towns -of Hangchow, Soo-chow, and the ancient capital of Nanking; the large -native trade, the convenience of inland transit by means of rivers and -canals; the fact that teas and silks can be brought here more readily -than to Canton; and, lastly, viewing this place as an immense mart for -our cotton manufactures, which we already know it to be,--there can be -no doubt that in a few years it will not only rival Canton, but become -a place of far greater importance. And, when I add that the climate -is healthy, the natives peaceable, and foreign residents respected, -and allowed to walk and ride all over the country to any distance not -exceeding a day's journey, it will be acknowledged that, as a place to -live at, it has many advantages over its southern rival. - -I have already said that this part of China is a complete net-work of -rivers and canals. These were often most annoying to me in my travels -over the country, when I happened to get off the Emperor's highway, -a circumstance of no rare occurrence. I have often been obliged to -press a boat into my service much against the will of the owners, more -particularly when I visited this region for the first time, because -I was then unacquainted with the localities, and the Chinese always -seemed to fear I might take, or rob, their boats if I succeeded in -getting into them, such were the opinions formed of foreigners at that -time. - -One day, in particular, I had been a considerable distance inland to -the westward of Shanghae, and on my return, by some means or other, I -got off the beaten track, and in pursuing my way, as I supposed in the -proper direction, I was "brought up" by a large and deep canal. About -two miles from where I stood, I saw a bridge, and, as it was nearly -dark, I made for it as fast as I could. Unluckily, however, just as I -thought my difficulties were over, being within gun-shot of the bridge, -I was again stopped by another canal, which crossed the former one at -right angles. I was now completely brought to a stand still, but in a -few minutes I perceived a boat approaching, and a man tracking it on -the same side as that on which we were. As soon as it came near, we -called out to the men on board to pull the boat towards us, and allow -us to get across to the other side. They seemed much frightened, and -after making the man who was tracking the boat come on board, they -pulled her into the middle of the canal, and then sculled away with -all their might. They would soon have passed far beyond our reach, and -left us to feel our way in the dark, or plunge through the deep muddy -canal. Necessity, they say, has no law. "Call out to them," said I to -my servant, "that if they do not immediately stop I will fire into -the boat and kill the whole of them," and at the same moment I fired -one of my barrels a little way ahead. This was quite sufficient. They -immediately came towards us, and put us quickly over to the other side. -I paid them for their trouble, and desired them to be more civil to the -next traveller they might meet in the same circumstances. They went -off in high spirits, and we heard them laughing and joking about the -adventure long after they had passed out of our sight. - -As an agricultural country, the plain of Shanghae is by far the richest -which I have seen in China, and is perhaps unequalled by any district -of like extent in the world. It is one vast beautiful garden. The hills -nearest to Shanghae are distant about thirty miles. These have an -isolated appearance in the extensive plain, and are not more than two -or three hundred feet high. From their summit, on a clear day, I looked -round in all directions, and was only able to see some few hills, -apparently having the same isolated character, far away on the horizon, -to the south; these, I have since ascertained, are near the Tartar city -of Chapoo. All the rest of the country was a vast level plain, without -a mountain or a hill to break the monotony of the view. The soil is a -rich deep loam, and produces heavy crops of wheat, barley, rice, and -cotton, besides an immense quantity of green vegetable crops, such -as cabbages, turnips, yams, carrots, egg-plants, cucumbers and other -articles of that kind which are grown in the vicinity of the city. The -land, although level, is generally much higher than the valleys amongst -the hills, or the plain round Ning-po; and, consequently, it is well -adapted for the cultivation of cotton, which is, in fact, the staple -production of the district. Indeed this is the great Nanking cotton -country, from which large quantities of that article are generally -sent in junks to the north and south of China, as well as to the -neighbouring islands. Both the white kind, and that called the "yellow -cotton," from which the yellow Nanking cloth is made, are produced in -the district. - -The soil of this district is not only remarkably fertile, but -agriculture seems more advanced, and bears a greater resemblance to -what it is at home, than in any part of China which I have seen. One -here meets with a farm-yard containing stacks regularly built up and -thatched in the same form and manner as we find them in England; the -land, too, is ridged and furrowed in the same way; and were it not for -plantations of bamboo, and the long tails and general costume of the -natives, a man might almost imagine himself on the banks of the Thames. - -A very considerable portion of the land in the vicinity of the town is -occupied by the tombs of the dead.[1] In all directions large conical -shaped mounds meet the eye, overgrown with long grass, and in some -instances planted with shrubs and flowers. The traveller here, as well -as at Ning-po and Chusan, constantly meets with coffins placed on the -surface of the ground out in the fields, carefully thatched over with -straw or mats to preserve them from the weather. Sometimes, though -rarely, when the relatives are less careful than they generally are, I -met with coffins broken or crumbling to pieces with age, exposing the -remains of the dead. I was most struck with the coffins of children, -which I met with every where; these are raised from the ground on a -few wooden posts, and carefully thatched over to protect them from the -weather--reminding the stranger that some parent, with feelings as -tender and acute as his own, has been bereaved of a loved one, whom he, -perhaps, expected should cheer and support him in his declining years, -and whose remains he now carefully watches. Those in the higher ranks -of life have, generally, a family burial-place at a little distance -from the town, planted with cypress and pine trees, with a temple -and altar built to hold the josses or idols, and where the various -religious ceremonies are performed. A man with his family is stationed -there to protect the place, and to burn candles and incense on certain -high days. Others, again, are interred in what may be called public -cemeteries, several of which I met with in the vicinity of Shanghae. -These are large buildings, each containing a certain number of spacious -halls or rooms, and having the coffins placed in rows around the sides. - -A flat and highly cultivated country, such as I have just described, -cannot be expected to be rich in indigenous plants. There are, however, -many beautiful clumps of the bamboo growing round all the villages -and small farm houses, which give a kind of tropical character to the -scenery, but it is the _only_ type of the tropics met with in this -district, at least as regards trees. I have already mentioned the -clumps of cypress and pine trees planted in the cemeteries of the -rich, which are seen studded all over the country, and form one of its -most striking features. Among these, I met for the first time with the -beautiful _Cryptomeria japonica_, a species of pine not unlike the -_Araucarias_ of Norfolk Island and Brazil. When growing luxuriantly, it -is highly ornamental, rising from the ground as straight as a larch, -and sending out numerous side branches almost horizontally from the -main stem, which again droop towards the ground in a graceful and -"_weeping_" manner. The wood of the tree has a kind of twisted grain, -and possesses great strength and durability. It is highly valued by -the Chinese, and from its beauty and straightness is often used by -the mandarins and priests for those long poles which are generally -seen in front of their houses and temples. It is also well known and -highly prized by the natives of Japan. My first seeds and plants of -this beautiful fir were sent from Shanghae, in the autumn of 1843, -and fortunately reached the garden of the Horticultural Society, at -Chiswick, in excellent order. It is to be hoped that it will prove -hardy, and if so, it will form a striking feature in the woods of -England. - -The only tree which I met with of very large size in this district is -the _Salisburia adiantifolia_, commonly called the Maiden-hair tree, -from the resemblance its leaves bear to a fern of that name. This is -one of the plants which the Chinese are fond of dwarfing, and it is, -consequently, often seen in that state in their gardens. Its fruit is -sold in the markets in all Chinese towns by the name of "_Pa-Kwo_," and -is not unlike dried almonds, only whiter, fuller, and more round. The -natives seem very fond of it, although it is rarely eaten by Europeans. -The weeping-willow, apparently the same species as we possess in -England, is also common on the sides of all the rivers and canals, as -well as in the gardens of the Chinese; and there is also a species -of elm, but it never attains any great size, and can therefore be of -little value. - -Although there is a paucity in the number of plants which are really -indigenous to this district, yet Shanghae is rich in species which have -been brought from other parts of the empire, and are here exposed in -gardens for sale: but there are here no mandarin gardens similar to -those at Ning-po, this being essentially a mercantile city, and all the -residents engaged in active business. The difference between the two -towns, in this respect, is indeed very striking. To make up, however, -for the deficiency of private collections, I found a number of nursery -gardens containing excellent assortments of plants for sale, many of -which were new to me, and are unknown in Europe; and, being at the -same time very ornamental, were consequently of great value. At first -I had great difficulty in finding out these gardens. The Chinese, from -motives which it would be difficult to define--perhaps jealousy or -fear,--were unwilling to give me the slightest information about any of -these places outside of the town. They told me there were numbers of -flower-shops in the city, but denied having any knowledge of nurseries -or gardens in the country. - -"If you want flowers," said they, "there they are in the shops; why do -you not buy them? Shanghae men do this, and you should do the same." - -"But then shops do not contain the things which I want," said I. - -"Then give us the names of the things you want, and we will get them -for you." - -"But how can I give you the names? I do not understand your language; -you would, of course, send to your nurseries for them if I could only -furnish you with their names?" - -"Yes." - -"Oh, then, you have nursery gardens in the country?" - -"Yes; but they are a very long way off." - -Of course I knew enough of the Chinese by this time to doubt every -word they told me, unless I had good reasons for believing them to -be speaking the truth, which I had not in this case. I also saw at -a glance, from the state of the plants, that they had not only been -grown in the country, but I knew from their condition that they could -have come but a very short distance, for they had been dug out of the -ground with a portion of the soil adhering to the roots. For some few -days, however, all my efforts were completely baffled, until a lucky -circumstance enabled me to get the better of my Chinese friends. My -servant and myself were returning home from the country, after an -unsuccessful day's search, when, as we neared the north gate of the -city, I shot a bird, which was new to me; being at that time engaged -in making a collection of the skins of Chinese birds. I was of course -immediately surrounded by all the boys in the neighbourhood, who -were quite in raptures at my gun, as it was so different from their -own clumsy matchlock. "Now," said I to the juvenile crowd around -me, "who can show me the way to the nearest flower-garden, where I -can purchase some flowers." "Lyloe, lyloe,"[2] said half a dozen -of them at once, and I found, to my surprise and pleasure, that I -was almost close to the gate of a very good nursery belonging to an -individual who had a flower-shop in the city, and with whom I had had -the conversation related above. It was now getting too dark to see -the plants well, but I marked the spot, and returned on the following -day. This time, however, I was not successful, for, as I approached, -a boy, who was on the watch, scampered away to the gardener's house -and gave notice of my appearance; and long before I reached the gate -it was closed and barricaded, and no persuasion nor entreaty could -remove their fears, or induce them to allow me to enter. The next day, -and the next again, the very same thing took place, although I took -different roads, in the hopes of finding the young sentinel off his -guard. I was now obliged to have recourse to other means to gain my -end. Her Majesty's consul, Captain Balfour, had from the first taken -great interest in the success of my pursuits, and kindly offered me -every assistance in his power, should I find any difficulties in my -way. I therefore related the circumstance to him, and requested him -to allow one of the Chinese officers attached to the consulate to -accompany me to the garden, and explain that my object was to purchase -plants, and not to take any thing away against their will. From our -experience of Chinese character, we were well aware that, if this were -properly explained, the poor people, whose livelihood depended upon -the propagation and sale of plants, would be very glad to allow me -to make purchases at their garden. I therefore set out again on the -following day, accompanied by an officer from the consulate. When we -approached the garden, my young friend was at his post, as usual, and -ran off immediately, and forthwith the gate was closed and barricaded -as before. We walked quietly up to it, and knocked, but there was no -answer; and the place seemed all at once to be deserted. The officer -well knew that the family had hid themselves just inside the gate, -and commenced talking to them, and laughing at their fears. In a few -seconds we heard a movement amongst the bushes, and then the inmates, -gaining courage, ventured to approach the gate to reconnoitre. At -last, being apparently satisfied, the bolts were withdrawn, and we -were admitted within the sacred precincts of the garden, when I soon -found several very valuable plants. The ice was now broken, and, with -the assistance of the Chinese officer, I got the names and localities -of several other gardens, which I soon found out: and, although it -was the winter season, and vegetation in a state of repose, I was -able in a few weeks to get together a collection of plants, which, -when they flowered, proved not only quite new, but highly ornamental. -A few months wrought a great change upon these diffident and timid -people, and, at length, they not only received me with pleasure, -but begged me to bring my friends and acquaintances to see their -flowers. I frequently did so, and as we always treated them with -kindness and consideration, a favourable impression was made upon -their minds, which, I have no doubt, will long continue. When I was -leaving Shanghae for the last time on my return to England, I went to -remove a collection of plants which I had in one of these gardens: as -I was doing so, the proprietor said to me, "the next time you come to -Shanghae I shall have left this garden, and gone to one which I have -taken in the next district, where I shall be glad to see you, and -supply you with the plants you want." - -"Thanks, my good friend," said I, "but as my labours in the 'central -flowery land' are ended, I shall now return again to my own country, -'Ta-Eng-co[3],' a land in the far distant west, and you shall never see -me again; fare you well." - -He then kindly wished me fair winds, smooth seas, and a happy meeting -with my friends at home. - -I merely mention this circumstance to show what a change took place in -the feelings of these poor people in the course of two years, and which -I regard as an earnest of what may be done with the northern Chinese, -who differ widely from their haughty and insolent countrymen in the -south. - -Another example may be given to show the cunning and deceit of many of -the Chinese here as elsewhere. A flower painter in Chusan had informed -me that several very valuable varieties of the _Moutan_, or Tree -PÅ“ony, were to be found in gardens near Shanghae. Those varieties of -this flower, which are yearly brought from the northern provinces to -Canton, and which are now common in Europe, have blossoms, which are -either rose-coloured or white: but it was always asserted, although not -believed, that in some part of China purple, blue, and yellow varieties -were produced, although these were never brought to Canton for sale. -It was for these that I made the most particular inquiries, and this -painter not only affirmed he had seen them, but also offered, for a -small sum, to make me drawings from memory of all the different kinds. -I employed him at once, and when he had finished the drawings, I took -them with me to Shanghae. A nurseryman, who had a flower-shop in the -town, to whom I showed these drawings, promised at once to procure -living plants for me, but said they would be very expensive, as he -would have to send to Soo-chow, a distance of nearly one hundred miles, -for they were not to be procured in the vicinity of Shanghae, and a -man would be absent at least eight days. I was, of course, glad to get -them upon any terms, and gave the man the price he asked, which, after -all, was not much out of the way, if they were to be brought a hundred -miles. At the specified time the Moutans arrived, and proved most -valuable kinds, which, in England, would have brought a very high sum. -Amongst them there were _lilacs_ and _purples_; some nearly _black_; -and one which the Chinese called "_the yellow,_" which, however, -was only white with a slight tinge of yellow near the centre of the -petals. Altogether the collection was a valuable one, and I was highly -satisfied with my bargain. Great was my surprise when I afterwards -found that these plants were brought a distance not more than six miles -from the walls of Shanghae, and that the celebrated town of Soo-chow -was, in fact, supplied with "Moutans" from the very same place. - -It was the winter season when I paid my first visit to Shanghae, and -of course few plants were then in bloom except the Chrysanthemum, the -varieties of which are as numerous here as in the south of China; and -as the Chinese gardeners understand their cultivation well, they were, -at this particular season, objects of great interest. My collections -were chiefly deciduous plants, which it was impossible to determine or -describe at the time, being chosen partly on account of the families -they belonged to, and partly from the characters given them by the -Chinese. Every one acquainted with practical Botany can form a very -fair idea of the value of plants even in this condition, and I was -not disappointed in the expectations I had formed regarding this -collection, many of the specimens afterwards proving plants of great -beauty and value. - -Whilst at Shanghae, I, with some other Europeans, had an invitation -to go to the house of a mandarin, to see a theatrical performance or -"Sing-song," and to dine with him in Chinese style afterwards. Sedan -chairs were sent to take us to his house, where we were introduced to -a number of his friends, and, as the invariable custom is, tea was -immediately handed round. Shortly afterwards a servant came with a tray -full of wet, warm towels, not unlike those generally used in kitchens -at home, and presented one to each of us. At first, we could not -conjecture what these were for; but, on looking at our Chinese friends, -we observed them rubbing their faces and hands with them, and, although -not very agreeable to us, we immediately did the same. I afterwards -found that this was a common custom amongst the Chinese, and I have -often been much refreshed by it after a warm walk. In hot countries -like China this plan is much better, and more conducive to health, than -either washing or bathing in cold water. - -While this was going on in the house, the players were getting every -thing ready in the large room where the performance was to take place. -In a little while one of them entered the room where we were, carrying -in his hand several fine long ivory cards, on which were written a -number of the most popular plays of the day, any one of which the -players were ready to perform at the command of our host and his -friends. We were most politely consulted on the subject, which, as we -did not know a single character of the language, and had the greatest -difficulty in understanding what was said to us, was not of much -use. Having at last fixed upon a particular piece for the evening's -entertainment, we were all led into the theatre. The room was large and -nearly square, having a platform at the upper end for the actors and -band, and one of the sides being only separated from an open lane by -a railing, so that the public might also have a view of the play. The -centre of the room was completely filled with guests, and from the roof -hung a number of lanterns in the Chinese style. As it was early in the -afternoon when the play commenced, the lanterns were not lighted and -the piece went on in daylight, the Chinese actors not excluding it as -we do in our theatres in England. - -The play began with some pantomime-like feats, such as we see in -English theatres at Christmas. This was succeeded by something which -appeared to be very pathetic, judging from the language and gestures -of the performers. All was gone through in a kind of opera style, the -actors singing their parts with false voices. The feats of tumbling -which were now and then performed were extremely dexterous and clever, -and attracted our notice more than any thing else, probably because -they were best understood. - -The dresses of the actors were superb, and must have cost a large sum -of money. There were no females amongst them, as it is not customary -for them to act; but their places were supplied by men or boys, chosen -from amongst those who are most "lady-looking," and so well were -their appearance and dresses arranged, that it would have required a -practised eye to have detected the difference. - -The voices of the actors were not musical, at least to English -ears, but the whole was in unison with the noisy gong, and the wind -instruments, like bagpipes, which are in common use amongst the -Chinese. In fact, noise seemed to be the thing which produced the -greatest effect, and we certainly had enough of it. - -I was struck by the various figures made by the actors on the stage, -intended, no doubt, to represent something like those scenes or -pictures which are so much studied in our theatres at home. A quadrant -seems to be a great favourite, and was constantly made by them in the -different acts. They have no scenery to assist the delusion, only a -simple screen, which is sometimes used to represent a room out of -which some actor is to make his appearance. Fencing is much practised, -and is, perhaps, the most curious part of these exhibitions. Each -individual has two swords, which he swings about his head in the -wildest manner, at the same time throwing his feet and legs about in a -most fantastic way, as if they had as much to do in the business as the -hands and arms. The exhibition or play lasted for three hours, and then -we left the theatre and retired into another room. While we were there -the servants were busily employed in rearranging the theatre, which was -now to be converted into a dining-room. - -When all was ready we were led in with great ceremony, and placed in -the principal seats of honour. We had now an opportunity of seeing -the extent to which the Chinese carry their ceremony and politeness -amongst themselves when they are about to be seated at table. Our host -and his friends were nearly a quarter of an hour before the whole of -them were seated. Each one was pressing the most honourable seat upon -his neighbour, who, in his turn, could not think of occupying such a -distinguished place at the board. However, after a great deal of bowing -and flattery, all was apparently arranged satisfactorily and dinner -commenced. - -The tables were now covered with a profusion of small dishes, which -contained all the finest fruits and vegetables of the season, besides -many of the most expensive kinds of soups, such as the celebrated -bird's nest and others, many of which were excellent even to the palate -of an Englishman. The servants were continually employed in removing -the centre dishes and replacing them by others of a different kind, -until at last every one seemed perfectly satisfied. Still, however, -the ceremony of bringing in new dishes went on, and these were merely -looked at and removed. Our maiden efforts with the chopsticks must have -been a source of great amusement to our Chinese friends, but they were -polite enough not to laugh at us, and did every thing in their power to -assist us. The play was resumed again as soon as the dinner commenced, -and continued as briskly as ever. The "lady actors" at intervals came -down from the platform and supplied the guests with different kinds -of wines. During the entertainment, a piece of money was handed to -each of the guests, which they were desired to leave as a present for -the actors at the conclusion of the piece. When this was given them, -the whole of the _corps dramatique_ came round, and each made a most -polite bow of acknowledgment and withdrew. Still, however, the dinner -ceremonial went on; hundreds of fresh dishes were brought in, and as -many in their turn removed. The Chinese guests were sometimes smoking, -sometimes eating, just as it seemed good to them, and uniformly -praising every thing which made its appearance on the table. - -We had now been three or four hours at table, and although the whole -affair had been very amusing, we had had enough of it, and were -beginning to tire. "How long shall the dinner last?" said I to a -linguist who was placed next me, and who had most politely explained -every thing which had occurred during the entertainment. "Oh," said -he, "it will last for three or four hours longer, but if you want to -go away, you may do so now." We were very glad to find that Chinese -etiquette permitted us to withdraw, and ordered our chairs, which were -waiting in the court-yard to receive us. Our host and his friends -lighted us out with lanterns, and we took our departure in the same -style in which we came. So ended my first Chinese dinner. Since then -such things have been no rarity, either in the palaces of the rich or -in the cottages of the poor, and they have been even more frequent in -the temples with the priests. - - -[1] It is stated in Davis's "Chinese," that the dead are all buried on -the sides of the barren hills. - -[2] Come, come. - -[3] Great England, or Great Britain, the name which our country is -known by in the north of China. - - - - CHAP. IX. - -RETURN TO THE SOUTH OF CHINA.--THE CANTON RIVER DESCRIBED.--FORTS -AT THE BOCCA TIGRIS.--PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY.--THE "SIGHING" -WILLOW.--CULTIVATION OF THE NELUMBIUM.--BOATS ON THE RIVER.--THE -BARBER'S BOAT, &C.--SPLENDOUR OF THE FLOWER BOATS.--APPEARANCE OF -THE RIVER AT FESTIVALS.--ORDER WHICH PREVAILS IN THIS FLOATING -CITY.--HOUSES BUILT OVER WATER.--CHINESE DEXTERITY IN SWIMMING -AND DIVING.--FA-TEE GARDENS.--THEIR PLANTS.--OLD ACHING GETS A -BAD NAME BECAUSE HIS SEEDS DO NOT GROW.--HE DOES NOT DESERVE -IT.--ADVICE TO THE BUYERS OF SEEDS.--ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PUBLIC -GARDENS AT CANTON.--CHINESE NEW YEAR.--ATTACKED AND ROBBED BY THE -CHINESE.--A SUBSEQUENT ATTACK MADE UPON SOME OFFICERS OF THE ENGLISH -GOVERNMENT.--THEIR LETTER TO HER MAJESTY'S CONSUL. - - -As the island of Chusan was my head-quarters in the north of China, I -now proceeded thither with my collections from Shanghae, preparatory to -sailing for Hong-kong and the southern ports of the country. The Chusan -hills were now covered with snow, and the weather was piercingly cold. -Large quantities of pheasants and water-fowl were daily brought to the -markets by the Chinese, who found the English good customers. A small -species of deer was also brought from the main-land, and frequently -alive. Four or five fine pheasants were often to be purchased for a -dollar, and duck and teal were also remarkably cheap: I believe from -two to four rupees were generally given for a deer. - -The officers of the troops stationed at Chusan, who were fond of -shooting, obtained excellent sport by engaging Chinese boats and going -across to the hills on the main-land, there being little game of any -kind upon the island itself. - -Having got all my things packed, I took a passage in a vessel bound for -the South, and having a fair monsoon down the China sea, we arrived at -Hong-kong in a few days, without any thing occurring worthy of notice. -The various collections which I had made in the North were now put up -in glazed cases and shipped for England. - -As the south of China had been ransacked by former botanists, I could -not expect to find much which was new or worthy of being sent home, and -I therefore arranged to proceed north again in March or April, in order -to have a whole season before me. In the meantime, as I had a few weeks -to spare in the south, I determined on a visit to Canton and Macao, -which are both within a short distance from Hong-kong. - -The Canton river is certainly one of the most imposing and striking -objects which the traveller meets with in this celebrated country. -The sea, near its mouth, is studded all over with numerous islands, -of which a good view is obtained in going over from Hong-kong to -Macao: and in sailing from either of these places to Canton, we pass a -succession of them, most of which are mountainous, having huge masses -of rock and yellow gravelly clay protruding here and there through the -surface, and but thinly covered with vegetation of any kind. - -Sometimes however, in our progress, we obtained views of beautiful -bays, with a few acres of level land near the shore, in the midst of -which there are some pretty houses or huts, surrounded by a few trees -and shrubs. In sailing amongst these islands one is apt to think that -in the retirement of such places, far removed from the vicious world, -and the "busy hum of men," the inhabitants must indeed be happy and -innocent, having their few wants abundantly supplied by the rice which -grows luxuriantly around their dwellings, and by the never-failing -supply of excellent fish, which are easily caught in the sea. But these -dreams of happiness and innocence are soon dispelled--these quiet -villages abound with pirates, who frequently commit acts of the most -cold-blooded cruelty, and render the passage between Hong-kong, Canton, -and Macao an alarming and dangerous affair. Lorchas and other small -vessels, with valuable cargoes on board, are frequently attacked, the -crew and passengers murdered, and the vessels disabled or destroyed. - -A few hours' sail, with a fair wind and tide, brought me in sight of -the celebrated Bocca Tigris, the entrance to the Canton river. The -forts destroyed during the war had been rebuilt on a more extensive -scale; and, if manned with English soldiers, no hostile fleet in the -world could pass them without being blown to pieces. I fancy, however, -that the Chinese, although they have had a lesson in the art of war, -which will make them more difficult to conquer in future, would still, -with all their forts, afford, but a feeble resistance against the -military and naval tactics of the English and other civilised nations -of the West. - -Inside the Bogue the river widens very much, and presents the -appearance of an inland sea. The view now becomes beautiful and -highly picturesque, the flat cultivated land near the shores forming -a striking contrast to the barren hills on the outside of the forts; -the mountains in the distance appear to encircle the extensive plain; -and although, like the others, they are barren, yet they make a fine -back-ground to the picture. A few miles further up the river, the -shipping in Blenheim and Whampoa reaches come into view, and the -celebrated Whampoa pagoda, with several more of less note, besides -numerous other towers and joss-houses, all remind the traveller that -he is approaching the far-famed city of Canton, one of the richest -and most important in the celestial empire. The noble river, with its -numerous ramifications, forms many islands, on one of which the small -town or village of Whampoa is built. - -Large quantities of rice are grown, both on the islands formed by -the river, and on the flats on the main land. The tide is kept out -by embankments, and the ground can be overflowed at will. These -embankments are not allowed to lie idle, but are made to produce crops -of Plantains. When the land is too high to be flooded by the tide, the -water-wheel is brought into play, and it is perfectly astonishing how -much water can be raised by this simple contrivance in a very short -space of time. - -Sugar-cane is also grown rather extensively near Whampoa, and in -its raw state is an article in great demand amongst the Chinese. It -is manufactured into sugar-candy and brown sugar; many kinds of the -latter being particularly fine, though not much used by the foreigners -residing in the country; who generally prefer the candy reduced to -powder, in which state it is very fine and white. I did not see our -loaf-sugar in any part of China, and I conceive that it is not made -there. - -A great number of the common fruit trees of the country grow all over -the plains and near the side of the river. The mango, guava, wangpee -(_Cookia punctata_), leechee, longan, oranges, and pumeloes, are the -principal kinds. Besides these, there are the cypress, thuja, banyan -and other kinds of fig-trees, and a species of pine, called by the -Chinese the water pine, from its always growing by the sides of the -rivers and canals. The bamboo, and a sort of weeping willow very much -like our own, are also frequently met with. The name which the Chinese -give to the latter is the "sighing" willow, coinciding rather curiously -with our own term of "weeping," and when taken in connection with the -historical fact of the Jews weeping by the streams of Babylon, and -hanging their harps upon the willows, show that this is regarded as the -emblem of sorrow as universally as the dark and sombre pine and cypress -are considered in all countries fit companions to the cemetery and -churchyard. - -On the sides of the river, both below and above the city, large -quantities of the water lily, or lotus, are grown, which are enclosed -by embankments in the same manner as the rice fields. This plant is -cultivated both as an ornament, and for the root, which is brought -in large quantities to the markets, and of which the Chinese are -remarkably fond. In the summer and autumn months, when in flower, the -lotus fields have a gay and striking appearance, but at other seasons -the decayed leaves and flowers, and the stagnant and dirty water, are -not at all ornamental to the houses which they surround. - -One of the most striking sights on the Canton river is the immense -number of boats which are moored all along the shore, near the foreign -factory. There are hundreds of thousands of all kinds and sizes, from -the splendid flower-boat, as it is called, down to the small barber's -boat, forming a large floating city, peopled by an immense number of -human beings. In sailing up the river you may observe a very small -boat, perhaps the smallest you ever saw, exposed on the water, being -nothing more than a few planks fastened together. This is the barber's -boat, who is going about, or rather swimming about, following his daily -avocation of shaving the heads and tickling the ears and eyes of the -Chinamen. By the by, this same barber has much to answer for, for his -practice has a most prejudicial effect upon the eyes and ears of his -countrymen. He, however, works his little boat with great dexterity, -and with his scull manages to propel himself with ease and swiftness -through the floating city of boats, larger and more powerful than -his own. Then you see boats of various sizes, such as those at Macao -and Hong-kong, covered over, divided into three compartments, and -kept remarkably clean and neat. These are hired by either natives or -foreigners for the purpose of going off to the large junks, or other -vessels moored out in the river, or for short excursions to the island -of Honan, the Fa-Tee Gardens, or such places. The centre division of -the boat forms a very neat little room, having windows in the sides, -ornamented with pictures and flowers of various kinds. The compartment -at the bow is occupied by the rowers, and that at the stern is used for -preparing the food of the family to whom the boat belongs. - -The boats of the Hong merchants, and the large flower-boats are very -splendid. They are arranged in compartments like the others, but are -built in a more superb and costly manner. The reader must imagine a -kind of wooden house raised upon the floor of the boat, having the -entrance near the bows, space being left there for the boatmen to stand -and row. This entrance being the front, is carved in a most superb -style, forming a prelude to what may be seen within. Numerous lanterns -hang from the roof of these splendid showy cabins; looking-glasses, -pictures, and poetry adorn their sides; and all the peculiarities of -this singular people are exposed to our view in these their floating -palaces. - -Then there are the Chop boats, which are used by the merchants for -conveying goods to the vessels at Whampoa; the passage-boats to -Hong-kong, Macao, and various parts of the country; the Mandarin-boats, -with their numerous oars, which have a strange appearance as they pass -up and down the river (I have seen a single boat of this kind with -forty oars on each side); and, lastly, the large unwieldly sea-going -junks. There are various modifications of all these kinds of boats, -each adapted for the particular purpose for which it is designed. -At festival times, the river has a singularly gay and striking -appearance, particularly at night, when the lanterns are lighted, and -numberless boats gaily decorated with them move up and down in front -of the factory. The effect produced upon a stranger at these times -by the wild and occasionally plaintive strains of Chinese music, the -noisy gong, the close and sultry air, the strange people,--full of -peculiarities and conceit,--is such as he can never forget, and leaves -upon his mind a mixed impression of pleasure, pity, admiration, and -contempt. Throughout the whole of this immense floating city, the -greatest regularity prevails; the large boats are arranged in rows, -forming streets, through which the smaller craft pass and repass, like -coaches and other vehicles in a large town. The families who live in -this manner seem to have a great partiality for flowers, which they -keep in pots, either upon the high stern of their boats, or in their -little parlours. The Chinese Arbor vitæ, Gardenias, Cycas revoluta, -cockscombs, and oranges, seem to be the greatest favourites with -them. A joss-house--small indeed, in many cases, but yet a place of -worship--is indispensable to all these floating houses. Here the -joss-stick and the oil are daily burned, and form the incense which -these poor people offer to their imaginary deity. - -Upon the sides of the river, and the numerous canals in the suburbs -of Canton, whole streets of wooden houses are built upon stakes which -are driven firmly into the mud. These dwellings very much resemble the -travelling shows which are often seen in the market towns of England; -except that posts supply the place of wheels, and that they are crowded -together in hundreds, forming crooked and irregular streets. Thousands -of the inhabitants live and enjoy health and happiness in such places, -which would soon be graves for Europeans--such is the difference of -constitution. - -But what surprised me most was the old women and young children bathing -in the river, which seemed as if it were their natural element, and -they appeared quite as much at home there as the fishes themselves. The -Chinese boat population are famous for their dexterity in and under -the water. Since the island of Hong-kong became an English settlement, -officers of the government, sent to apprehend thieves in the bay, have -frequently failed to do so owing to this circumstance. The Chinamen, -whenever they found that there was any danger of being taken, jumped -all together overboard, diving out of sight, and swimming under water -until they were out of the reach of their pursuers, or until they found -shelter in some of the numerous boats belonging to their own clan, -which lay moored in the bay. - -I lost no time in visiting the celebrated Fa-tee Gardens, near Canton, -the "flowery land," as the name implies, from whence a great number of -those fine plants were first procured which now decorate our gardens in -England. They are situated two or three miles above the city, on the -opposite side of the river, and are, in fact, Chinese nursery gardens, -where plants are cultivated for sale. - -Here, then, I beheld a specimen of the far-famed system of Chinese -gardening, about which we have read so much in European authors: -I will, therefore, describe them somewhat fully. The plants are -principally kept in large pots arranged in rows along the sides of -narrow paved walks, with the houses of the gardeners at the entrance -through which the visitors pass to the gardens. There are about a dozen -of these gardens, more or less extensive, according to the business -or wealth of the proprietor; but they are generally smaller than the -smallest of our London nurseries. They have also stock-grounds, where -the different plants are planted out in the ground, and where the first -process of dwarfing their celebrated trees is put in operation. These -contain large collections of Camellias, Azaleas, oranges, roses, and -various other well-known plants, which are purchased by the Chinese -when in flower. The most striking plant in autumn or winter is the -curious fingered Citron, which the Chinese gather and place in their -dwellings or on their altars. It is much admired both for its strange -form and also for its perfume. The mandarin orange is also much grown -at Fa-tee, where the plants are kept in a dwarf state, and flower and -fruit most profusely, producing large, flat, dark, red-skinned fruit. -The Chinese have a great variety of plants belonging to the orange -tribe; and of one which they call the _cum quat_--a small oval-fruited -variety--they make a most excellent preserve. The _Murraya exotica, -Aglaia odorata, Ixoras_, and _LagerstrÅ“mias_ are very ornamental here -in autumn. - -But it is of course in spring that the Fa-tee gardens possess the -greatest attractions. They are then gay with the tree pæony, azaleas, -camellias, roses, and various other plants. The azaleas are splendid, -and reminded me of the exhibitions in the gardens of the Horticultural -Society at Chiswick, but the Fa-tee exhibitions were on a much larger -scale. Every garden was one mass of bloom, and the different colours -of red, white, and purple blended together, had a most beautiful -and imposing effect. The principal kinds grown were _Azalea indica, -indica_ _alba, phÅ“nicea, lateritia, variegata_, and the yellow _Azalea -sinensis_. I may mention in passing, that I found the latter plant wild -on the Ning-po hills, so that there is no doubt of its being a genuine -Chinese species. The air at this season around Fa-tee is perfumed with -the sweet flowers of _Olea fragrans_, and the _Magnolia fuscata_, both -of which are grown extensively in these gardens. Dwarf trees, as may be -supposed, occupy a principal station; they are trained into the most -grotesque and curious forms. The plants which stand next to dwarf trees -in importance with the Chinese are certainty chrysanthemums, which they -manage extremely well, perhaps better than they do any other plant. -So high do these plants stand in the favour of the Chinese gardener, -that he will cultivate them extensively, even against the wishes of -his employer; and, in many instances, rather leave his situation than -give up the growth of his favourite flower. I was told that the late -Mr. Beale used to say that he grew chrysanthemums in his garden for no -other purpose than to please his gardener, not having any taste for -this particular flower himself. - -Tree pæonies are not natives of the south of China, but are brought -down in large quantities every year, about the month of January, from -the northern provinces. They flower soon after they arrive, and are -rapidly bought up by the Chinese to ornament their houses, after which -they are thrown away, as they do not thrive well so far south as Canton -or Macao, and will not flower a second season. They are sold according -to the number of flower-buds they may have upon them, many of them -fetching rather high prices. - -One of the old gardeners here speaks the English language very well, -and carries on a considerable trade in seeds with the English and -American residents, but, unfortunately, he has got a bad name, owing -to his seeds generally failing to grow when they are sent home. It is -now currently reported that the old man boils them, in order that his -trade may not be spoiled by some enterprising propagator in England or -America. Such, however, is not the case; on the contrary, I am quite -certain that he does every thing in his power to preserve them, but -very likely some may be a year or two old before they are dispatched -to Europe. Besides, the long voyage round the Cape--during which the -seeds have twice to cross the tropics--is very prejudicial to their -germination. There is, however, no great loss in these seeds not -growing, as there is nothing amongst them new, or of any value, for -they are gathered from the plants common in the Fa-tee gardens, the -greater part of which have been years ago introduced to our gardens at -home. I would, therefore, strongly advise my friends in China not to -spend their money upon such seeds. - -Although the botanist can find little that is new to him in these -gardens, yet they are well worthy of a visit; and in the spring months, -when most of the plants are in bloom, they have a singularly gorgeous -and imposing appearance, and really deserve the poetical name of -"Fa-tee," or flowery land, which the Chinese have given them. - -The garden which formerly belonged to the East India Company is still -in existence. It is but a small plot of ground on the river side, not -more than sixty paces each way, having broad chunamed walks round it, -and a clump, with a few trees in the middle, and a few more between the -walk and the wall all round. Since Mr. Reeves's time no one seems to -have paid any attention to the plants here, and if there ever were any -rare species, they are now all lost. A few Palms, Plantains, _Magnolia -grandiflora, Clerodendron fragrans, Justicia Adhatoda, Ligustrum, -Murraya exotica_, the Leechee, and two or three other well-known -things, are all that it contains. In front of the American factory -there is a very nice public garden, at least six times the size of -the Company's, with fine broad walks for recreation, and containing -numerous shrubs and trees indigenous to the country; nothing, it is -true, of any rarity, but sufficient to make it look extremely well. A -good garden and promenade are of much importance here; for it is likely -to be some years before foreigners enjoy the same liberty at Canton of -walking about the country as they do in the other parts of China. - -At this period the Chinese were making great preparations for the -celebration of New Year's Day, which then fell on the 18th of February. -Flowers of all kinds were in great demand amongst the inhabitants, who -employ them in the decoration of their houses and temples. In going -up the river towards the Fa-tee Gardens, I met boats in great numbers -loaded with branches of peach and plum trees in bloom, _Enkianthus -quinqueflorus_, camellias, cockscombs, magnolias, and various other -plants which flower at this season. The Enkianthus is brought down -from the hills with the buds just expanding; and after being placed -in water for a day or two, the flowers come out as healthy and fresh -as if the branches had not been removed from the parent tree. This -plant is a great favourite amongst the Chinese. The common jonquil -too comes in for a very extensive share of patronage; and in the -streets of Canton one meets with thousands of bulbs growing in small -pans amongst water and a few white stones. In this case the Chinese -exhibit their peculiar propensity for dwarf and monstrous growth, by -planting the bulbs upside down, and making the plants and flowers -assume curious twisted forms, which appear to be so agreeable to the -eyes of a Chinaman. Large quantities of all these flowers are exposed -for sale in many of the shops and in the corners of the streets in -Canton, where they seem to be eagerly bought up by the Chinese, who -consider them quite indispensable at this particular season. Not only -are the houses and temples decorated with them, but the boats on the -river also come in for a most extensive share. Indeed, these boats are -only floating houses, for a very great part of the population of Canton -lives upon the river. The flower-boats, as they are commonly called, -are particularly gay at new-year time with flowers of all hues, and -gaudy flags streaming from each mast and stern. Crackers or fireworks, -of which the Chinaman is so fond, are let off in large quantities for -several days in all parts of the town, and form part of their religious -ceremonies or offerings to their gods. Their shops are closed on New -Year's Day, and for two or three days afterwards. The greater part of -the natives wear their holiday clothes, and tramp about amongst their -relations and friends to _chin-chin_ them, and wish them a happy new -year, as we do at home. Large parties are made at this season to go -up to the gardens at Fa-tee; and on particular days you find there -hundreds of these flower-boats crowded with young Chinese of the better -classes, enjoying themselves as our own population do at Richmond or -Hampton Court. Great numbers of well dressed ladies also go over to -Fa-tee in the flower-boats, and walk about in the gardens; and this is -the only season when they are visible at Canton. - -After having been several months in the north of China, and, with one -or two exceptions, always experiencing the greatest civility from -the natives, I was beginning to form a high opinion of the Chinese -as a nation, and inclined to trust the people about Canton in the -same manner as I had done in the northern provinces. I very soon, -however, found out my mistake, and in a most disagreeable manner. -There were some hills behind the city, a few miles distant, which I -had often wished to visit for the purpose of examining their botanical -productions. One morning I started off through the town, in the -direction of these hills; and after walking between two and three -miles, I reached the suburbs on the side of the town, opposite to that -where the foreign factory stands. The sounds of "_Fankwei,_"[1] with -which I was assailed in the early part of my walk, had now nearly -ceased, and I began to imagine that I had got out from amongst the -impertinent boys and low Chinese, whom one continually meets in the -back streets of Canton. I was now on a good road, amongst fields and -gardens, and had an excellent view of the surrounding country, and -hills. How very strange, thought I, that the foreign residents in the -factories never avail themselves of the opportunity of coming here, -when they might enjoy the fresh air, and see the country, which would -help to relieve the monotonous life they are compelled to lead. - -As I was walking quietly along, I met a Chinese soldier on horseback, -who by gestures and words did every thing in his power to induce me to -retrace my steps. I knew nothing of the Canton dialect at this time, -and as I thought he only wished to prevent me from taking a walk in -the country, I paid no attention to him, but passed onwards. Soon -afterwards, however, I began to suspect the ill intentions of several -groups of ill-looking fellows who seemed to be eyeing me narrowly as -I proceeded. I now came to a little hill which seemed to be used as -a cemetery: it was enclosed, but the door which led to it was wide -open, and the place appeared to be quite public. In order to have a -more extended view of the country, I walked in and began to ascend -the hill. I had only proceeded about half way up, when a number of -Chinamen who had followed me in, began to crowd round me, asking for -"_comeshaws,_"[2] and becoming every moment more numerous and urgent. I -tried what civility would do with them for a little while, but by the -time I reached the top of the hill I clearly perceived that I was in a -trap, out of which it would be a difficult matter to extricate myself. - -Up to this time, however, no one had attempted to lay hands upon me. -Taking a cursory view of the surrounding country, I began to devise -in my mind the best mode of getting rid of my troublesome companions. -There seemed no other way than putting a bold face on the matter, and -retracing my steps to Canton. "You more better come down this way," -said a fellow to me in broken English, pointing to a ravine on the -opposite side of the hill. My suspicions, however, were now roused, -and I saw at once the object of my adviser, which was to get me into -some place out of sight, where I should doubtless have been robbed of -every article I had about my person, and probably stripped into the -bargain. "No, no," said I, "I have nothing to do down there," and began -to retrace my steps down the hill. The Chinese now closed upon me, and -seemed determined to obstruct my progress. Some laid hold of my arms; -one fellow seized my cap, and ran off with it, another did the same -with my umbrella, several hands were in my pockets, and others were -even attempting to get my coat off. I now saw that nothing short of -getting every thing I possessed would satisfy them, as each one wanted -something, and "their name was legion." Collecting all my strength, I -threw myself upon those who were below me, and sent several of them -rolling down the side of the hill. This, however, was nearly fatal to -me, for, owing to the force which I exerted, and the uneven nature of -the ground, I stumbled and fell; but fortunately I instantly recovered -myself, and renewed the unequal struggle, my object being to reach -the door of the cemetery by which I had entered. The Chinese on the -hill now called out to their friends below to shut the door, and thus -prevent me from reaching the open road. Seeing at once that if this -were accomplished I should be an easy prey to them, I determined if -possible to prevent it. Springing out of the grasp of those by whom I -was surrounded, I made for the door, which I reached just as it was -closed, but fortunately before it was fastened on the other side. -The force with which I came against it burst it open, and threw the -Chinamen on their backs who were busily fastening it. I was now in -the open road, where some hundreds of the Chinese were congregated -together; some of them apparently respectable, but the greater part -evidently nothing but thieves and robbers. The respectable part would -not, or probably durst not, render me any assistance. Stones were now -flying about me in all directions, and a brick struck me with great -force on the back, and nearly brought me to the ground. I was stunned -for a few seconds, and leaned against the wall to breathe and recover -myself, thinking that I was now comparatively safe as I was out on -the open road. I was soon undeceived, however, for the rascals again -surrounded me, and relieved me of several articles which had escaped -them before. As the whole neighbourhood was evidently a bad one, it -would have been madness to have taken shelter in any of the houses, -and I therefore had to struggle with the robbers for nearly a mile, -sometimes fighting, and sometimes running, until I got out of their -territory, and near the more populous parts of the town. The plight I -was now in may easily be conceived, but taking everything into account, -I came off better than might have been expected. - -On my way home, having neither hat nor umbrella, I suffered greatly -from exposure to the sun, which, in the south of China, is very -powerful on a clear day, even in spring. I would have gladly gone into -a shop and bought a Chinese hat, but the rascals had not left me even a -copper cash for the purpose. Fortunately I had left my watch at home, -otherwise that would have been taken amongst the first things, as -Chinese thieves are very partial to watches and know their value well. - -The Honourable F. C. Drummond, with whom I was staying at the time, -informed me afterwards that the place where I had been attacked was one -of the worst in the suburbs of Canton, and that three gentlemen of his -acquaintance, a year or two before, had come off even worse than I had -done, the Chinese having taken away nearly all their clothes. - -About two years after this attack upon me three gentlemen holding -government appointments in China, Mr. Montgomery Martin, the Rev. -V. Stanton, and Mr. Jackson, having incautiously strolled into the -suburbs, were also attacked; and the letter which they addressed -officially to Her Majesty's consul complaining of the treatment they -had received, shows so clearly the state of things at Canton, that I -give it entire:-- - -"About seven o'clock this morning, while walking for exercise along the -north wall, on the outside of the city, we were attacked by several -Chinese, who had been following us, and increasing in numbers, from -the building known to foreigners as the Five-storied Pagoda. At first -they commenced by throwing stones, which endangered our lives, and by -some of which we were struck. This attack was aided and encouraged by -a number of Chinese, who followed us along the top of the city wall, -hurling large stones, which, if they had struck, would have killed -those at whom they were aimed. Mr. Jackson was first attacked by men -brandishing swords and daggers; his arms were pinioned, and his gold -chain snatched from his neck. The Rev. Mr. Stanton and Mr. Martin -perceiving that Mr. Jackson was not following returned to aid him, -and were themselves seized. One of the assailants thrust a dagger at -Mr. Martin's breast, two endeavoured to throw him on the ground, and, -whilst struggling with them, his pockets were rifled. The same course -was pursued with Mr. Jackson and Mr. Stanton. The latter lost his -watch; the former still retained his, but every thing else was taken. -The assailants then left us; but the persons on the wall followed us -for sometime, hurling large stones and using menacing gestures and -opprobrious language. - -"Proceeding southward beneath the wall to reach to the river side, we -were again followed and attacked by another party. Mr. Jackson received -a violent blow on his chest, and a roof was torn up to furnish large -sticks to the assailants. In this attack Mr. Jackson was deprived of -his watch; our clothes were torn; and at one time the people were -disposed to strip us. No resistance was offered: it was hopeless to -have attempted it, not only by reason of the numbers and weapons of the -multitude, but also on account of the attack on us from the watch tower -and along the walls. - -"The outrage was entirely unprovoked. Our own official character, and -the presence of a minister of religion, was a guarantee for peaceful -conduct; and had his presence not restrained Mr. Jackson and Mr. -Martin, bloodshed might probably have ensued. Reaching a more populous -part of the suburbs, we rested a moment and then proceeded home; but -not unfrequently hearing opprobrious epithets, mingled with cries of -'Kill them, kill them.' - -"From no nation in Europe would British subjects suffer this treatment. -There can be no excuse for tolerating a continuance of such conduct -towards us in China; and we think there cannot be a doubt that the -Chinese government have it in their power effectually to put a stop, -not only to the personal insults which the English daily experience, -but also to prohibit effectually the repetition of the injuries we have -experienced. By the prohibition to enter the city of Canton, the lower -classes of the Chinese are encouraged to regard us as inferiors, and -to treat us with marked contumely. No measures, that we are aware of, -have ever been taken by the authorities to prevent the constant insults -to which the British community are subjected; and which, instead of -diminishing by time, or being subdued by acts of kindness, seem to -become more frequent and more virulent. - -"Anxiously desirous to maintain peace and to promote amity, we make -this representation, believing that, unless the Chinese authorities -remedy the evils complained of, the most serious consequences must -inevitably and ere long ensue." - - -[1] Literally, "foreign devil." - -[2] Presents. - - - - CHAP. X. - -VISIT TO THE NINGPO GREEN TEA DISTRICT.--MOUNTAIN TRAVELLING -CHAIR.--THE BUDDHIST TEMPLE OF TEIN-TUNG.--SCENERY AROUND THE -TEMPLE.--TRADITIONAL HISTORY COMMUNICATED BY THE PRIEST.--THE TEMPLE -AND ITS IDOLS.--INVITATION TO DINNER WITH THE PRIESTS.--FIRST -TRIAL WITH CHOPSTICKS.--POLITENESS! OF THE CHINESE.--USUAL -DINNER COMPANY.--MY BED.--DEVOTIONS OF THE PRIESTS.--WILD BOAR -HUNT.--NARROW ESCAPE.--MODE OF FRIGHTENING THE ANIMALS FROM -THE BAMBOO PLANTATIONS.--MOUNTAIN SCENERY.--BUDDHIST TEMPLE OF -AH-YU-WANG.-POO-TO-SAN, OR THE WORSHIPPING ISLAND.--ITS TEMPLES AND -IDOLS.--BRONZE GODS.--TREES AND SHRUBS.--GARDENS AND PET PLANTS OF -THE PRIESTS.--SALE OF GODS OR JOSSES.--OFFERINGS TO THE GODS IN -SHANGHAE AND NINGPO.--PROCESSIONS IN HONOUR OF THE GODS.--CHRISTIAN -MISSIONS.--MEDICAL MISSIONARY SOCIETY.--ROMAN CATHOLICS. - - -Having despatched my collections to England by three different vessels -from Hong-kong, I sailed again, at the end of March 1844, for the -northern provinces. During the summer of this year, and in that of -1845, I was able to visit several parts of the country, which were -formerly scaled to Europeans, and which contained subjects of much -interest. - -About the beginning of May I set out upon an excursion with Mr. Thom, -the British consul, and two other gentlemen, to visit the green -tea district near Ningpo. We were informed that there was a large -and celebrated temple, named _Tein-tung_, in the centre of the tea -district, and above twenty miles distant, where we could lodge during -our stay in this part of the country. Twelve or fourteen miles of our -journey was performed by water, but the canal ending at the foot of -the hills we were obliged to walk, or take chairs for the remainder -of the way. The mountain travelling chair of China is a very simple -contrivance. It consists merely of two long bamboo poles, with a board -placed between them for a seat, and two other cross pieces, one for the -back and the other for the feet: a large Chinese umbrella is held over -the head to afford protection from the sun and rain. - -[Illustration: Mountain Chair.] - -The Chinese are quite philosophers after their own fashion. On our -way to the temple, when tired with sitting so long in our boat, we -several times got out and walked along the path on the sides of the -canal. A great number of passage-boats going in the same direction -with ourselves, and crowded with passengers, kept very near us for a -considerable portion of the way, in order to satisfy their curiosity. -A Chinaman never walks when he can possibly find any other mode of -conveyance, and these persons were consequently much surprised to see -us apparently enjoying our walk. - -"Is it not strange," said one, "that these people prefer walking when -they have a boat as well as ourselves?" A discussion now took place -amongst them as to the reason of this apparently strange propensity, -when one, more wise than his companions, settled the matter by -the pithy observation, "It is _their nature_ to do so;" which was -apparently satisfactory to all parties. - -It was nearly dark when we reached the temple, and as the rain had -fallen in torrents during the greater part of the day, we were drenched -to the skin, and in rather a pitiable condition. The priests seemed -much surprised at our appearance, but at once evinced the greatest -hospitality and kindness, and we soon found ourselves quite at home -amongst them. They brought us fire to dry our clothes, got ready our -dinner, and set apart a certain number of their best rooms for us to -sleep in. We were evidently subjects of great curiosity to most of them -who had never seen an Englishman before. Our clothes, features, mode of -eating, and manners were all subjects of wonder to these simple people, -who passed off many a good humoured joke at our expence. - -Glad to get off our clothes, which were still damp, we retired early -to rest. When we arose in the morning, the view which met our eyes -far surpassed in beauty any scenery which I had ever witnessed before -in China. The temple stands at the head of a fertile valley in the -bosom of the hills. This valley is well watered by clear streams, -which flow from the mountains, and produces most excellent crops of -rice. The tea shrubs, with their dark green leaves, are seen dotted -on the lower sides of all the more fertile hills. The temple itself -is approached by a long avenue of Chinese pine trees. This avenue is -at first straight, but near the temple it winds in a most picturesque -manner round the edges of two artificial lakes, and then ends in a -flight of stone steps, which lead up to the principal entrance. Behind, -and on each side, the mountains rise, in irregular ridges, from one -to two thousand feet above the level of the sea. These are not like -the barren southern mountains, but are clothed nearly to their summits -with a dense tropical looking mass of brushwood, shrubs, and trees. -Some of the finest bamboos of China are grown in the ravines, and the -sombre coloured pine attains to a large size on the sides of the hills. -Here, too, I observed some very beautiful specimens of the new fir -(_Cryptomeria japonica_), and obtained some plants and seeds of it, -which may now be seen growing in the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick. - -After we had breakfasted, one of the head priests came and gave us a -very pressing invitation to dine with him about mid-day; and in the -meantime he accompanied us over the monastery, of which he gave the -following history:--"Many hundred years ago a pious old man retired -from the world, and came to dwell in these mountains, giving himself -up entirely to the performance of religious duties. So earnest was he -in his devotions that he neglected everything relating to his temporal -wants, even to his daily food. Providence, however, would not suffer -so good a man to starve. Some boys were sent in a miraculous manner, -who daily supplied him with food. In the course of time the fame of -the sage extended all over the adjacent country, and disciples flocked -to him from all quarters. A small range of temples was built, and -thus commenced the extensive buildings which now bear the name of -"Tein-tung," or the "Temple of the Heavenly Boys;" _Tein_ signifying -heaven, and _tung_ a boy. At last the old man died, but his disciples -supplied his place. The fame of the temple spread far and wide, and -votaries came from the most distant parts of the empire--one of the -Chinese kings being amongst the number--to worship and leave their -offerings at its altars. Larger temples were built in front of the -original ones, and these again in their turn gave way to those spacious -buildings which form the principal part of the structure of the present -day. - -All the temples are crowded with idols, or images of their -favourite gods, such as the "three precious Buddhas," "the Queen -of Heaven"--represented as sitting on the celebrated lotus or -nelumbium--"the God of War," and many other deified kings and great men -of former days. Many of these images are from thirty to forty feet in -height, and have a very striking appearance when seen arranged in these -spacious and lofty halls. The priests themselves reside in a range of -low buildings, erected at right angles with the different temples and -courts which divide them. Each has a little temple in his own house--a -family altar crowded with small images, where he is often engaged in -private devotion. - -After inspecting the various temples and the belfry, which contains -a noble bronze bell of large dimensions, our host conducted us back -to his house, where the dinner was already on the table. The priests -of the Buddhist religion are not allowed to eat animal food at any of -their meals. Our dinner therefore consisted entirely of vegetables, -served up in the usual Chinese style, in a number of small round -basins, the contents of each--soups excepted--being cut up into small -square bits, to be eaten with chopsticks. The Buddhist priests contrive -to procure a number of vegetables of different kinds, which, by a -peculiar mode of preparation, are rendered very palatable. In fact, so -nearly do they resemble animal food in taste and in appearance, that -at first we were deceived, imagining that the little bits we were able -to get hold of with our chopsticks were really pieces of fowl or beef. -Such, however, was not the case, as our good host was consistent on -this day at least, and had nothing but vegetable productions at his -table. Several other priests sat with us at table, and a large number -of others of inferior rank with servants, crowded around the doors and -windows outside. The whole assemblage must have been much surprised at -the awkward way in which some of us handled our chopsticks, and, with -all their politeness, I observed they could not refrain from laughing -when, after repeated attempts, some little dainty morsel would still -slip back again into the dish. I know few things more annoying, and yet -laughable too, than attempting to eat with the Chinese chopsticks for -the first time, more particularly if the operator has been wandering on -the hills all the morning, and is ravenously hungry. The instruments -should first of all be balanced between the thumb and forefinger of the -right hand; the points are next to be brought carefully together, just -leaving as much room as will allow the coveted morsel to go in between -them; the little bit is then to be neatly seized; but alas! in the act -of lifting the hand, one point of the chopstick too often slips past -the other, and the object of all our hopes drops back again into the -dish, or perhaps even into another dish on the table. Again and again -the same operation is tried, until the poor novice loses all patience, -throws down the chopsticks in despair, and seizes a porcelain spoon, -with which he is more successful. In cases like these the Chinese -themselves are very obliging, although scarcely in a way agreeable -to an Englishman's taste. Your Chinese friend, out of kindness and -politeness, when he sees the dilemma in which you are, reaches across -the table and seizes, with his own chopsticks, which have just come out -of his mouth, the wished-for morsel, and with them lays it on the plate -before you. In common politeness you must express your gratitude and -swallow the offering. - -During dinner our host informed us that there were about a hundred -priests connected with the monastery, but that many were always absent -on missions to various parts of the country. On questioning him as -to the mode by which the establishment was supported, he informed -us that a considerable portion of land in the vicinity belonged to -the temple, and that large sums were yearly raised from the sale of -bamboos, which are here very excellent, and of the branches of trees -and brushwood, which are made up in bundles for fire-wood. A number of -tea and rice farms also belong to the priests, which they themselves -cultivate. Besides the sums raised by the sale of these productions, -a considerable revenue must be derived from the contributions of the -devotees who resort to the temple for religious purposes, as well as -from the sums collected by those of the order who are out on begging -excursions at stated seasons of the year. The priests are of course -of all grades, some of them being merely the servants of the others, -both in the house and in the fields. They seem a harmless and simple -race, but are dreadfully ignorant and superstitious. The typhoon of -the previous year, or rather the rain which had accompanied it, had -occasioned a large slip of earth on one of the hill-sides near the -temple, and completely buried ten or twelve acres of excellent paddy -land. On our remarking this, the priests told us with great earnestness -that every one said it was a bad omen for the temple; but one of them -with true Chinese politeness remarked that he had no doubt any evil -influence would now be counteracted, since the temple had been honoured -with a visit from us. - -After inspecting the tea farms and the mode of manufacturing it, Mr. -Thom, Mr. Morrison, a son of the late Dr. Morrison, and Mr. Sinclair, -returned to Ningpo, leaving me to prosecute my research in natural -history in this part of the country. I was generally absent from -the temple the whole day, returning at dark with the collections of -plants and birds which I had been lucky enough to meet with in my -peregrinations. The friends of the priests came from all quarters of -the adjacent country to see the foreigner; and, as in the case of a -wild animal, my feeding time seemed to be the most interesting moment -to them. My dinner was placed on a round table in the centre of the -room, and although rather curiously concocted, being half Chinese and -half English, the exercise and fresh air of the mountains gave me a -keen appetite. The difficulties of the chopsticks were soon got over, -and I was able to manage them nearly as well as the Chinese themselves. -The priests and their friends tilled the chairs, which are always -placed down the sides of a Chinese hall, each man with his pipe in his -mouth and his cup of tea by his side. With all deference to my host -and his friends, I was obliged to request the smoking to be stopped, -as it was disagreeable to me while at dinner; in other respects, I -believe I was "polite" enough. I shall never forget how inexpressibly -lonely I felt the first night after the departure of my friends. The -Chinese one by one dropt off to their homes or to bed, and at last my -host himself gave several unequivocal yawns, which reminded me that -it was time to retire for the night. My bed-room was upstairs, and to -get to it I had to pass through a small temple, such as I have already -noticed, dedicated to _Tein-how_, or the "Queen of Heaven," and crowded -with other idols. Incense was burning on the altar in front of the -idols; a solitary lamp shed a dim light over the objects in the room, -and a kind of solemn stillness seemed to pervade the whole place. In -the room below, and also in one in an adjoining house, I could hear the -priests engaged in their devotional exercises, in that singing tone -which is peculiar to them. Then the sounds of the gong fell upon my -ears; and, at intervals, a single solemn toll of the large bronze bell -in the belfry; all which showed that the priests were engaged in public -as well as private devotion. Amidst scenes of this kind, in a strange -country, far from friends and home, impressions are apt to be made -upon the mind, which remain vivid through life; and I feel convinced -I shall never forget the strange mixture of feelings which filled my -mind during the first night of my stay with the priests in the temple -of Tein-tung. I have visited the place often since, passed through the -same little temple, slept in the same bed, and heard the same solemn -sounds throughout the silent watches of the night, and yet the first -impressions remain in my mind distinct and single. - -The priests, from the highest to the lowest, always showed me the most -marked attention and kindness. As many of them as I wished cheerfully -followed me in my excursions in the vicinity of the temple; one -carrying my specimen paper, another my plants, and a third my birds, -and so on. The gun seemed an object of great interest to them, being -so different from their own clumsy matchlocks; and percussion caps -were looked upon as most magical little objects. But they were great -cowards, and always kept at a most respectful distance when I was -shooting. - -One evening a deputation, headed by the high priest, came and informed -me that the wild boars had come down from the mountains at night, and -were destroying the young shoots of the bamboo, which were then just -coming through the ground, and were in the state in which they are -highly prized as a vegetable for the table. "Well," said I, "what do -you want me to do?" - -"Will you be good enough to lend us the gun?" - -"Yes; there it stands in the corner of the room." - -"Oh, but you must load it for us." - -"Very well, I will;" and I immediately loaded the gun with ball. -"There, but take care and don't shoot yourselves." There was now a -long pause; none had sufficient courage to take the gun, and a long -consultation was held between them. At length the spokesman came -forward, with great gravity, and told me they were afraid to fire it -off, but that if I would go with them, and shoot the boar, I should -have it to eat. This was certainly no great sacrifice on the part of -the Budhist priesthood, who do not, or at least should not, eat animal -food. We now sallied forth in a body to fight the wild boars; but the -night was so dark that we could see nothing in the bamboo ravines, and, -perhaps, the noise made by about thirty priests and servants warned the -animals to retire to the brushwood higher up the hills. Be that as it -may, we could neither see nor hear any thing of them, and I confess I -was rather glad, than otherwise, as I thought there was a considerable -chance of my shooting, by mistake, a priest instead of a wild boar. - -The priests have two modes of protecting their property from the -ravages of these animals. Deep pits are dug on the hill sides, and, as -there are springs in almost all these places, the pits are scarcely -finished before they are half full of water. The mouth of each pit is -then covered over with a quantity of sticks, rubbish, and grass, to -attract the animal, and no sooner does he begin to bore into it with -his snout, than the whole gives way, and he is plunged, head foremost, -into the pit, from which it is quite impossible for him to extricate -himself, and he is either drowned or becomes an easy prey to the -Chinese. These pits are most dangerous traps to persons unacquainted -with the localities in which they are placed. I had several narrow -escapes, and once in particular, when coming out of a dense mass of -brushwood, I stept unawares on the treacherous mouth of one of them, -and felt the ground under my feet actually giving way; but managing to -throw my arms forward I caught hold of a small twig which was growing -near, and by this means supported myself until I was able to scramble -on to firmer ground. On turning back to examine the place, I found that -the loose rubbish had sunk in, and a deep pit, half full of water, was -exposed to my view. The pit was made narrow at the mouth and widening -inside like a great China vase, being constructed in this manner to -prevent the boar from scrambling out when once fairly in it. Had I -fallen in, it would have been next to impossible to have extricated -myself without assistance, and as the pits are generally dug in the -most retired and wild part of the mountains, my chance would have been -a bad one. The fate of my predecessor, Mr. Douglas, who perished in a -pit of this kind on the Sandwich Islands, must still be fresh in the -recollection of many of my readers, and his melancholy end naturally -coming to my mind at the time, made me doubly thankful for my escape. - -The other method of protecting the young bamboos from the ravages of -the wild boar, is an ingenious one. A piece of bamboo wood, about eight -or ten feet long, and rather thicker than a man's arm, is split up the -middle to within a fourth of its length. This is made fast to a tree in -the bamboo thicket, and at an angle of about forty-five degrees, the -split part being left loose, a cord, also made of bamboo, is fastened -to it by one end, and the other is led to some convenient place out -of the thicket, where a man is stationed. When the boars come down -in the dead of night to attack the young shoots, the man pulls the -rope backwards and forwards, and clank, clank, clank goes the bamboo, -producing a loud and hollow sound, which on a quiet evening may be -heard at a great distance. The animals are frightened and make off to -their dens on the hills. The first time I heard these things beating at -night, all over the country, I imagined that some religious ceremony -was going on, the hollow sounds of the bamboo being not unlike those -produced by an instrument used in the Budhist worship in all Chinese -temples. - -There are a large number of Budhist temples scattered over all this -part of the country. One, named _Ah-yu-wang_, which I also visited, is, -like _Tein-tung_, of great extent, and seemingly well supported. They -both own large tracts of land in the vicinity of the monasteries, and -have numerous small temples in different parts of the district which -are under their control. All the temples, both large and small, are -built in the most romantic and beautiful situations amongst the hills, -and the neighbouring woods are always preserved and encouraged. What -would indicate the residence of a country gentleman in England, is in -China the sign of a Budhist temple, and this holds good over all the -country. When the weary traveller, therefore, who has been exposed for -hours to the fierce rays of an eastern sun, sees a large clean looking -house showing itself amongst trees on the distant hill-side, he may be -almost certain that it is one of Budha's temples, where the priests -will treat him not only with courtesy, but with kindness. - -_Poo-to_, or the Worshipping Island, as it is commonly called by -foreigners, is one of the eastern islands in the Chusan Archipelago, -and seems to be the capital or stronghold of Budhism in this part of -China. This island is not more than five or six miles in circumference, -and, although hilly, its sides and small ravines are pretty well -wooded, particularly in the vicinity of the numerous temples. As it is -only a few hours' sail from Chusan, it had been visited at different -times by a number of our officers during the war, all of whom spoke -highly of its natural beauties and richness of vegetation. I was also -informed that the resident priests were fond of collecting plants, -particularly Orchidaceæ, and that their collections were much increased -by the itinerant habits of the begging priests, who visit the most -distant provinces of the empire, as well as by the donations of the lay -devotees, who come to Poo-to at stated seasons of the year, to worship -and leave their offerings in the temples. I therefore determined to -visit the place in order to judge for myself, and accordingly set out -in July, 1844, accompanied by my friend, Dr. Maxwell, of the Madras -army. - -Leaving Chusan at night, with the tide in our favour, we reached the -island at sun-rise on the following morning. We landed, and pursued our -way over a hill and down on the other side by a road which led us into -a beautiful and romantic glen. It is here that the principal group of -temples is built, and when we first caught a glimpse of them, as we -wended our way down the hill, they seemed like a town of considerable -size. As we approached nearer, the view became highly interesting. In -front there was a large artificial pond, filled with the broad green -leaves and noble red and white flowers of the _Nelumbium speciosum_,--a -plant in high favour with the Chinese. Every body who went to Poo-to -admired these beautiful water-lilies. In order to reach the monastery -we crossed a very ornamental bridge built over this pond, which, when -viewed in a line with an old tower close by, has a pretty and striking -appearance. - -The temples or halls which contain the idols are extremely spacious, -and resemble those which I have already described at _Tein-tung_ and -_Ah-yu-Wang_. These idols, many of which are thirty or forty feet in -height, are generally made of wood or clay, and then richly gilt. There -is one small temple, however, of a very unassuming appearance, where we -met with some exquisite bronze statues, which would be considered of -great value in England. These, of course, were much smaller than the -others, but, viewed as works of art, they were by far the finest which -I saw during my travels in China. - -Having examined these temples, we pursued our way towards another -assemblage of them, about two miles to the eastward and close on the -sea-shore. We entered the courts through a kind of triumphal arch, -which looks out upon the sea, and found that these temples were -constructed upon the same plan as all the others. As we had determined -to make this part of the island our home during our stay, we fixed upon -the cleanest looking temple, and asked the High Priest to allow us, -without farther delay, to put our beds and travelling baggage into it. - -On the following day we inspected various parts of the island. Besides -the large temples just noticed, there are about sixty or seventy -smaller ones, built on all the hill sides, each of which contains -three or four priests, who are all under the superior, or abbot, who -resides near one of the large temples. Even on the top of the highest -hill, probably 1500 or 1800 feet above the level of the sea, we found a -temple of considerable size and in excellent repair. There are winding -stone steps from the sea beach all the way up to this temple, and a -small resting-place about half way up the hill, where the weary devotee -may rest and drink of the refreshing stream which flows down the -sides of the mountain, and in the little temple close at hand, which -is also crowded with idols, he can supplicate Budha for strength to -enable him to reach the end of his journey. We were surprised to find -a Budhist temple in such excellent order as the one on the summit of -the hill proved to be in. It is a striking fact, that almost all these -places are crumbling fast into ruins. There are a few exceptions, in -cases where they happen to get a good name amongst the people from the -supposed kindness of the gods; but the great mass are in a state of -decay. - -From the upper temple on Poo-to-san the view is strikingly grand. -Hugged mountains are seen rising one above another and capped with -clouds. Hundreds of islands, some fertile, others rocky and barren, -lay scattered over the sea. When we looked in one direction amongst -the islands, the water was yellow and muddy; but, to the eastward, the -deep blue ocean had resumed its usual colour, and the line between the -yellow waters and the blue was distinctly and curiously marked. - -The wood on the island is preserved in the same manner as it is around -all the other Budhist temples. The principal species of trees and -shrubs met with are _Pinus sinensis, Cunningham lanceolata_, yews, -cypresses, the camphor tree, tallow tree, oaks, and bamboos. The -_Camellia japonica_ grows spontaneously in the woods, where we met with -many specimens from twenty to thirty feet in height and with stems -thick in proportion. The variety, however, was only the well-known -single red. In other respects the flora of Poo-to is nearly the same as -on the island of Chusan. - -A few pet plants were cultivated by all the priests who were fortunate -enough to have private residences at the little temples on the sides -of the hills. We were much pleased with the interest these poor people -took in their favourite flowers, but were disappointed in the number -and variety of plants, which, from the reports of others, we expected -to have found. Almost the only orchidaceous plant which they had, -proved to be the common and well-known _Cymbidium sinense. Daphne -odorata_, two or three species of _Gardenia_, several varieties of -Rose, the common Balsam, and the favourite _Nelumbium_ were nearly all -the plants met with in the gardens of the priests. - -The island of Poo-to is set apart entirely as a residence for the -priests of the Budhist religion. Few other persons are allowed to -live there, and these are either servants or in some way connected -with the priests. No women are permitted to reside on the island, it -being against the principles of the Budhists to allow their priests -to marry. The number of priests are estimated at 2000, but many of -them are constantly absent on begging expeditions for the support -of their religion. This establishment, like Tein-tung, has also a -portion of land allotted to it for its support, and the remainder of -the funds are made up by the subscriptions of the devotees. On certain -high days, at different periods of the year, many thousands of both -sexes, but particularly females, resort to these temples, clad in -their best attire, to pay their vows and engage in the other exercises -of heathen worship. Little stalls are then seen in the temples or at -the doorways for the sale of incense, candles, paper made up in the -form of the ingots of Sycee-silver, and other holy things which are -considered acceptable offerings to the gods, and are either consumed -in the temples or carried home to bring a blessing upon the houses -and families of those who purchase them. The profits of these sales, -of course, go to the support of the establishment. When we consider -that these poor deluded people sometimes travel a distance of several -hundred miles to worship in the temples on Poo-to-san and other -celebrated places, we cannot but admire their spirit of devotion. I was -once staying in the temple of _Tein-tung_ when it was visited for three -days by devotees from all parts of the country. As they lined the roads -on their way to the temple, clad in the graceful and flowing costume of -the East, the mind was naturally led back to those days of scripture -history when Jerusalem was in its glory, and the Jews, the chosen -people of God, came from afar to worship in its temple. - -Although no Christian can look upon the priests and devotees of the -Budhist creed without an eye of pity, yet he must give them credit -for their conduct, since he has every reason to believe them sincere, -and I am inclined to believe that justice has not been done them in -this respect. Mr. Gutzlaff, in describing his visit to Poo-to, is of -a different opinion. He says, "We were present at the vespers of the -priests, which they chanted in the Pali language, not unlike the Latin -service of the Romish church. They held rosaries in their hands, which -rested folded upon their breasts. One of them had a small bell, by the -tinkling of which their service was regulated; and they occasionally -beat the drum and large bell to rouse Budha's attention to their -prayers. The same words were a hundred times repeated. _None of the -officiating persons showed any interest in the ceremony_, for some -were looking around laughing and joking, while others muttered their -prayers. The few people who were present, not to attend the worship, -but to gaze at us, did not seem, in the least degree, to feel the -solemnity of the service. "What Mr. Gutzlaff says is doubtless true, -but after residing for months in their temples, at different times, -and in different parts of the country, I have no hesitation in saying -that such conduct is very far from being general. In certain instances -I have seen it myself, but this levity and apparent want of attention -was exhibited by the servants and lookers on, who were taking no part -in the ceremony, and not by the respectable portion of the priests. -On the contrary, I have generally been struck with the solemnity -with which their devotional exercises were conducted. I have often -walked into Chinese temples when the priests were engaged in prayer, -and, although there would have been some apology for them had their -attention been diverted, they went on in the most solemn manner until -the conclusion of the service, as if no foreigner were present. They -then came politely up to me, examining my dress and every thing about -me with the most earnest curiosity. Nor does this apply to priests -only; the laity, and particularly the female sex, seem equally sincere -when they engage in their public devotions. Whether they are what they -appear to be, or how often they are in this pious frame of mind, are -questions which I cannot answer. Before judging harshly of the Chinese -let the reader consider what effect would be produced upon the members -of a _Christian_ church by the unexpected entrance of a small-footed -Chinese lady, or a Mandarin, with the gold button and peacock feather -mounted on his hat, and his long tail dangling over his shoulders. I am -far from being an admirer of the Budhist priesthood; they are generally -an imbecile race, and shamefully ignorant of every thing but the simple -forms of their religion, but nevertheless there are many traits in -their character not unworthy of imitation. - -There are two other sects in China, namely, the followers of -_Kong-foo-tze_ or Confucius, and the sect of _Taou_ or Reason. Although -these three sects form the principal part of the population, it is well -known that there are a great number of Mohommedans in every part of -the empire, who are not only tolerated, but admitted to offices under -government in the same manner as the members of the three established -sects. Jews also are found in several districts, but more particularly -at a place called Kae-foong-foo, in the province of Honan. - -The various religious ceremonies which the Chinese are continually -performing prove at least that they are very superstitions. In all the -southern towns every house has its temple or altar both inside and -outside. The altar in the inside is generally placed at the end of the -principal hall or shop, as the case may be, raised a few feet from the -ground, and having some kind of representation of the family deity -placed upon it. This is surrounded with gaudy tinsel paper, and on -the first of the Chinese month or other high days candles and incense -are burned on the table which is placed in front of it. The altar on -the outside of the door resembles a little furnace, in which the same -ceremonies are regularly performed. In the vicinity of small villages, -and sometimes in the most retired situations, the stranger meets with -little joss-houses or temples, gaudily decorated with paintings and -tinsel paper, and stuck round about with the remains of candles and -sticks of incense. In almost all Chinese towns there are shops for -the sale of idols of all kinds and sizes, varying in price from a few -"cash" to a very large sum. Many of those exposed for sale are of great -age, and have evidently changed hands several times. I am inclined to -believe that the Chinese exchange those gods which do not please them -for others of higher character, and which they suppose are more likely -to grant an answer to their prayers, or bring prosperity to their homes -or their villages. - -The periodical offerings to the gods are very striking exhibitions to -the stranger who looks upon them for the first time. When staying at -Shanghae, in November, 1844, I witnessed a most curious spectacle in -the house where I was residing. It was a family offering to the gods. -Early in the morning the principal hall in the house was set in order, -a large table was placed in the centre, and shortly afterwards covered -with small dishes filled with the various articles commonly used as -food by the Chinese. All these were of the very best description which -could be procured. After a certain time had elapsed a number of candles -were lighted, and columns of smoke and fragrant odours began to rise -from the incense which was burning on the table. All the inmates of the -house and their friends were clad in their best attire, and in turn -came to _Ko-tou_, or bow lowly and repeatedly in front of the table -and the altar. The scene, although it was an idolatrous one, seemed -to me to have something very impressive about it, and whilst I pitied -the delusion of our host and his friends, I could not but admire their -devotion. In a short time after this ceremony was completed a large -quantity of tinsel paper, made up in the form and shape of the ingots -of Sycee silver common in China, was heaped on the floor in front of -the tables, the burning incense was then taken from the table and -placed in the midst of it, and the whole consumed together. By and by, -when the gods were supposed to have finished their repast, all the -articles of food were removed from the tables, cut up, and consumed by -people connected with the family. - -On another occasion, when at Ning-po, having been out some distance in -the country, it was night and dark before I reached the cast gate of -the city, near which I was lodged in the house of a Chinese merchant. -The city gates were closed, but two or three loud knocks soon brought -the warder, who instantly admitted me. I was now in the widest and -finest street in the city, which seemed in a blaze of light and -unusually lively for any part of a Chinese town after nightfall. The -sounds of music fell, upon my ear, the gong, the drum, and the more -plaintive and pleasing tones of several wind instruments. I was soon -near enough to observe what was going on, and saw, at a glance, that it -was a public offering to the gods, but far grander and more striking -than I had before witnessed. The table was spread in the open street, -and every thing was on a large and expensive scale. Instead of small -dishes, whole animals were sacrificed on the occasion. A pig was placed -on one side of the table, and a sheep on the other, the former scraped -clean, in the usual way, and the latter skinned; the entrails of both -were removed, and on each were placed some flowers, an onion, and a -knife. The other parts of the table groaned with all the delicacies -in common use amongst the respectable portion of the Chinese, such as -fowls, ducks, numerous compound dishes, fruits, vegetables, and rice. -Chairs were placed at one end of the table on which the gods were -supposed to sit during the meal, and chopsticks were regularly laid at -the sides of the different dishes. A blaze of light illuminated the -whole place, and the smoke of the fragrant incense rose up into the air -in wreaths. At intervals the band struck up their favourite plaintive -national airs, and altogether the whole scene was one of the strangest -and most curious which it has ever been my lot to witness. - -There is another ceremony of a religious character which I frequently -observed in the northern cities--I allude to processions in honour -of the gods. I saw one of them at Shanghae, which must have been at -least a mile in length. The gods, or josses, were dressed up in the -finest silks, and carried about in splendid sedan-chairs, preceded -and succeeded by their numerous devotees, superbly dressed for the -occasion, and bearing the different badges of office. The dresses of -the officials were exactly the same as of those who form the train -of some of the high mandarins. Some had a broad fan, made of peacock -feathers, which they wore on the sides of their hats, others were -clad in glaring theatrical dresses, with low caps, and two long black -feathers stuck in them, and hanging over their shoulders like two -horns. Then there were the ill-looking executioners with long, conical, -black hats on their heads, and whips in their hands for the punishment -of the refractory. Bands of music, placed in different parts of the -procession, played at intervals as it proceeded. Anxious to see the end -of this curious exhibition, I followed the procession until it arrived -at a temple in the suburbs, where it halted. The gods were taken out of -the sedan-chairs, and replaced with due honours, in the temple, from -which they had been taken in the morning. Here their numerous votaries -bent low before them, burned incense, and left their gifts upon the -altar. Numerous groups of well-dressed ladies and their children were -scattered over the ground in the vicinity of the temple, all bending -their knees and seemingly engaged in earnest devotion. A large quantity -of paper, in the form of the Sycee ingots, was heaped up on the grass -as it was brought by the different devotees, and, when the ceremonies -of the day were drawing to a close, the whole was burned in honour of, -or as an offering to, the gods. The sight was interesting, but it was -one which no Christian could look upon without feelings of the deepest -commiseration. - -In the course of my travels in China I often met with Christian -missionaries, both Protestant and Roman Catholic, who have been -labouring amongst the Chinese for many years. Until very lately the -efforts of the Protestants had been chiefly confined to Macao and -Canton. Since the war, however, they have had an opportunity of -extending their operations, and some are now settled at all the new -ports which have been opened for foreign trade, as well as on our -Island of Hong-kong, which will now become their head-quarters. - -The medical missionaries also act in conjunction with the others, and -are of great use in curing many of the diseases which prevail in the -country, while, at the same time, the truths of the Christian faith -are presented to the minds of their patients. Dr. Lockhart of the -London Missionary Society, who has established himself in the town of -Shanghae, had his hospital daily crowded with patients, many of whom -had come from very distant parts of the country. All were attended to -in the most skilful and careful manner, "without money and without -price." The Rev. Mr. Medhurst, who has laboured long and zealously as a -Christian missionary in the East, was also at Shanghae. This gentleman -is well known as an eminent Chinese scholar, and, besides preaching to -the people in their own tongue, he has a printing establishment with -Chinese type continually at work, for the dissemination of the truths -of the gospel. Several other gentlemen and their families had arrived -at the same port previous to my departure, and were closely engaged -in the study of the language. Ning-po and Amoy were also occupied by -missionaries, both from England and America, and I suppose, ere this -time, some have also reached Foo-chow-foo on the River Min. - -From my own experience of Chinese character, and from what I have seen -of the working of the Medical Missionary Society, I am convinced that -it must be a powerful auxiliary to the missionaries in the conversion -of the Chinese. I regret, however, to say, that up to the present time -little progress appears to have been made. One portion of the people, -and a large one, is entirely indifferent to religion of any kind, and -the rest are so bigoted and conceited, that it will be a most difficult -task to convince them that any religion is better or purer than their -own. - -The Roman Catholic missionaries conduct their operations in a manner -somewhat different from the Protestants. They do not restrict -themselves to the out-ports of the empire, where foreigners are -permitted to trade, but penetrate into the interior, and distribute -themselves over all the country. One of their bishops, an Italian -nobleman, resides in the province of Keang-soo, a few miles from -Shanghae, where I have frequently met him. He dresses in the costume -of the country, and speaks the language with the most perfect fluency. -In the place where he lives he is surrounded by his converts; in -fact it is a little Christian village, where he is perfectly safe, -and I believe is seldom if ever annoyed in any way by the Chinese -authorities. When new Roman Catholic missionaries arrive, they are met -by some of their brethren or their converts at the port nearest their -destination, and secretly conveyed into the interior; the Chinese dress -is substituted for the European; their heads are shaved, and in this -state they are conducted to the scene of their future labours, where -they commence the study of the language, if they have not learned it -before, and in about two years are able to speak it sufficiently well -to enable them to instruct the people. These poor men submit to many -privations and dangers for the cause they have espoused, and although -I do not approve of the doctrines which they teach, I must give them -the highest praise for enthusiasm and devotion to their faith. European -customs, habits, and luxuries are all abandoned from the moment they -put their feet on the shores of China; parents, friends, and home, in -many instances, are heard of no more; before them lies a heathen land -of strangers, cold and unconcerned about the religion for which they -themselves are sacrificing everything, and they know that their graves -will be far away from the land of their birth and the home of their -early years. They seem to have much of the spirit and enthusiasm of -the first preachers of the Christian religion, when they were sent out -into the world by their Divine Master to "preach the gospel to every -creature," and "to obey God rather than man." - -According to the accounts of these missionaries, the number of -converts to their faith is very considerable; but I fear they, as -well as the Protestants, are often led away by false appearances and -assertions. Many of the Chinese are unprincipled and deceitful enough -to become Christians or in fact any thing else, in name, to accomplish -the object they may have in view, and they would become Budhists -the very next day should any inducement be offered them to do so. -Judging from appearances, the day must yet be very distant when the -Chinese, as a nation, will be converted to the Christian faith. Could -those individuals in our time, who predict the near approach of the -Millennium, see the length and breadth of this vast country, with its -three hundred millions of souls, they would surely pause and reflect -before they published their absurd and foolish predictions. - - - - CHAP. XI. - -THE TEA-PLANT OF CHINA.--THE SPECIES FOUND IN THE GREEN AND BLACK -TEA DISTRICTS.--BEST SITUATION FOR TEA PLANTATIONS.--REMARKS -ON THEIR MANAGEMENT.--SEASONS, AND METHODS, OF GATHERING -THE LEAVES.--MANUFACTURE OF TEA.--COTTAGES AMONGST THE TEA -HILLS.--FURNACES AND DRYING PANS.--FIRST APPLICATION OF HEAT.--ROLLING -PROCESS.--EXPOSURE OF THE LEAVES TO THE AIR.--SECOND HEATING.--LENGTH -OF TIME REQUIRED.--TWO KINDS OF TEA.--DIFFERENCE IN THE MANUFACTURE -OF EACH.--SELECTING AND PACKING TEAS.--APPEARANCE AND COLOUR OF THE -LEAF.--PECULIAR TASTE OF FOREIGNERS FOR DYED TEAS.--GOOD SENSE OF THE -CHINESE.--TEA MERCHANTS.--THEIR VISITS TO THE TEA HILLS.--MODE OF -BUYING FROM THE SMALL GROWERS.--BLACK TEA DISTRICT IN FOKIEN.--TEAS -DIVIDED INTO TWO KINDS.--PECULIAR METHOD OF PREPARING EACH.--CAUSE -OF THEIR DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR.--FLOWERS USED IN SCENTING THE FINER -TEAS.--SIR JOHN FRANCIS DAVIS'S REMARKS ON DIFFERENT KINDS OF TEAS SOLD -AT CANTON. - - -There are few subjects connected with the vegetable kingdom which have -attracted such a large share of public notice as the tea-plant of -China. Its cultivation on the Chinese hills, the particular species or -variety which produces the black and green teas of commerce, and the -method of preparing the leaves, have always been objects of peculiar -interest. The jealousy of the Chinese government, in former times, -prevented foreigners from visiting any of the districts where tea is -cultivated, and the information derived from the Chinese merchants, -even scanty as it was, was not to be depended upon. And hence we find -our English authors contradicting each other, some asserting that the -black and green teas are produced by the same variety, and that the -difference in colour is the result of a different mode of preparation, -while others say that the black teas are produced from the plant called -by botanists _Thea Bohea_, and the green from _Thea viridis_, both of -which we have had for many years in our gardens in England. - -During my travels in China since the last war, I have had frequent -opportunities of inspecting some extensive tea districts in the black -and green tea countries of Canton, Fokien, and Chekiang, and the result -of these observations is now laid before the reader. It will prove that -even those who have had the best means of judging have been deceived, -and that the greater part of the black and green teas which are brought -yearly from China to Europe and America are obtained from the same -species or variety, namely, from the _Thea viridis_. Dried specimens -of this plant were prepared in the districts I have named by myself, -and are now in the herbarium of the Horticultural Society of London, so -that there can be no longer any doubt upon the subject. - -In various parts of the Canton province, where I had an opportunity of -seeing tea cultivated, the species proved to be the _Thea Bohea_, or -what is commonly called the black tea plant. In the green tea districts -of the north--I allude more particularly to the province of Chekiang--I -never met with a single plant of this species, which is so common in -the fields and gardens near Canton. All the plants in the green tea -country near Ning-po, on the Islands of the Chusan Archipelago, and -in every part of the province which I had an opportunity of visiting, -proved, without exception, to be the _Thea viridis_. Two hundred miles -further to the north-west, in the province of Kiang-nan, and only a -short distance from the tea hills in that quarter, I also found in -gardens this same species of tea. - -Thus far my actual observation exactly verified the opinions I had -formed on the subject before I left England, viz., that the black teas -were prepared from the _Thea Bohea_, and the green from _Thea viridis_. -When I left the north, on my way to the city of Foo-chow-foo, on the -River Min, in the province of Fokien, I had no doubt that I should -find the tea hills there covered with the other species, _Thea Bohea_, -from which we generally suppose the black teas are made; and this was -the more likely to be the case as this species actually derives its -specific name from the Bohee hills in this province. Great was my -surprise to find all the plants on the tea hills near Foo-chow exactly -the same as those in the green tea districts of the north. Here were -then green tea plantations on the black tea hills, and not a single -plant of the Thea Bohea to be seen. Moreover, at the time of my visit, -the natives were busily employed in the _manufacture of black teas_. -Although the specific differences of the tea-plants were well known to -me, I was so much surprised, and I may add amused, at this discovery, -that I procured a set of specimens for the herbarium, and also dug up a -living plant, which I took northward to Chekiang. On comparing it with -those which grow on the green tea hills, no difference whatever was -observed. - -It appears, therefore, that the black and green teas of the northern -districts of China (those districts in which the greater part of the -teas for the foreign markets are made) are both produced from the same -variety, and that that variety is the _Thea viridis_, or, what is -commonly called the green tea plant. On the other hand, those black and -green teas which are manufactured in considerable quantities in the -vicinity of Canton are obtained from the _Thea Bohea_, or black tea. -And, really, when we give the subject our unprejudiced consideration, -there seems nothing surprising in this state of things. Moreover, we -must bear in mind that our former opinions were formed upon statements -made to us by the Chinese at Canton, who will say any thing which suits -their purpose, and rarely give themselves any trouble to ascertain -whether the information they communicate be true or false. - -The soil of the tea districts is, of course, much richer in the -northern provinces than it is in Quantung. In Fokien and Chekiang it is -a rich sandy loam, very different from the sample which will be found -noticed in the chapter on climate and soil. Tea shrubs will not succeed -well unless they have a rich soil to grow in. The continual gathering -of their leaves is very detrimental to their health, and, in fact, -ultimately kills them. Hence a principal object with the grower is to -keep his bushes in as robust health as possible; and this cannot be -done if the soil be poor. - -The tea plantations in the north of China are always situated on the -lower and most fertile sides of the hills, and never on the low lands. -The shrubs are planted in rows about four feet apart and about the -same distance between each row, and look, at a distance, like little -shrubberies of evergreens. - -The farms are small, each consisting of from one to four or five acres; -indeed, every cottager has his own little tea garden, the produce of -which supplies the wants of his family, and the surplus brings him in a -few dollars, which are spent on the other necessaries of life. The same -system is practised in every thing relating to Chinese agriculture. The -cotton, silk, and rice farms are generally all small and managed upon -the same plan. There are few sights more pleasing than a Chinese family -in the interior engaged in gathering the tea leaves, or, indeed, in -any of their other agricultural pursuits. There is the old man, it may -be the grand--father, or even the great-grandfather, patriarch like, -directing his descendants, many of whom are in their youth and prime, -while others are in their childhood, in the labours of the field. He -stands in the midst of them, bowed down with age. But, to the honour of -the Chinese as a nation, he is always looked up to by all with pride -and affection, and his old age and grey hairs are honoured, revered, -and loved. When, after the labours of the day are over, they return -to their humble and happy homes, their fare consists chiefly of rice, -fish, and vegetables, which they enjoy with great zest, and are happy -and contented. I really believe that there is no country in the world -where the agricultural population are better off than they are in the -north of China. Labour with them is pleasure, for its fruits are eaten -by themselves, and the rod of the oppressor is unfelt and unknown. - -In the green tea districts of Chekiang near Ning-po, the first crop of -leaves is generally gathered about the middle of April. This consists -of the young leaf-buds just as they begin to unfold, and forms a fine -and delicate kind of young hyson, which is held in high estimation -by the natives, and is generally sent about in small quantities as -presents to their friends. It is a scarce and expensive article, and -the picking of the leaves in such a young state does considerable -injury to the tea plantations. The summer rains, however, which fall -copiously about this season, moisten the earth and air, and if the -plants are young and vigorous they soon push out fresh leaves. - -In a fortnight or three weeks from the time of the first picking, or -about the beginning of May, the shrubs are again covered with fresh -leaves, and are ready for the second gathering, which is, in fact, the -most important of the season. The third and last gathering, which takes -place as soon as new leaves are formed, produces a very inferior kind -of tea, which, I believe, is rarely sent out of the district. - -The mode of gathering and preparing the leaves of the tea-plants is -extremely simple. We have been so long accustomed to magnify and -mystify every thing relating to the Chinese, that, in all their arts -and manufactures, we expect to find some peculiar and out of the way -practice, when the fact is, that many operations in China are more -simple in their character than in most other parts of the world. To -rightly understand the process of rolling and drying the leaves, which -I am about to describe, it must be borne in mind that the grand object -is to expel the moisture, and at the same time to retain, as much -as possible, of the aromatic and other desirable secretions of the -species. The system adopted to attain this end is as simple as it is -efficacious. - -In the harvest seasons the natives are seen in little family groups on -the side of every hill, when the weather is dry, engaged in gathering -the tea leaves. They do not seem so particular, as I imagined they -would have been, in this operation, but strip the leaves off rapidly -and promiscuously, and throw them all into round baskets made for -the purpose out of split bamboo or rattan. In the beginning of May, -when the principal gathering takes place, the young seed vessels are -about as large as peas. These are also stripped off and dried with the -leaves; it is these seed-vessels, which we often see in our tea, and -which have some slight resemblance to young capers. When a sufficient -quantity of leaves are gathered, they are carried home to the cottage -or barn, where the operation of drying is performed. - -The Chinese cottages, amongst the tea hills, are simple and rude in -their construction, and remind one of what we used to see in Scotland -in former years, when the cow and pig lived and fed in the same house -with the peasant. Scottish cottages, however, even in these days, -were always better furnished and more comfortable than those of the -Chinese are at the present time. Nevertheless, it is in these poor -cottages that a large proportion of the teas, with their high-sounding -names, are first prepared. Barns, sheds, and other outhouses, are also -frequently used for the same purpose, particularly about the temples -and monasteries. - -The drying pans and furnaces in these places are very simply -constructed. The pans, which are of iron, and are made as thin as -possible, are round and shallow, and, in fact, are the same, or nearly -the same, which the natives have in general use for cooking their rice. -A row of these are built into brick work and chunam, having a flue -constructed below them, with the grating, or rather fire-place, at -one end, and the chimney, or, at least, some hole to allow the smoke -to escape, at the other. A chimney is a secondary consideration with -the Chinese, and in many instances which came under my observation, -the smoke, after passing below the drying-pans, was allowed to escape, -as it best could, through the doors and roofs of the houses, which, -indeed, in China, is no difficult matter. - -When the pans are first fixed, the brick-work and chunam are smoothed -off very neatly round their edges and carried up a little higher, -particularly at the back of the pans, at the same time widening -gradually. When complete, the whole has the appearance of a row of -large high-backed basins, each being three or four times larger than -the shallow iron pan which is placed at its bottom, immediately over -the flue. When the fire is applied, the upper part of these basins, -which is formed of chunam, gets heated as well as the iron pan, though -in a less degree. The drying pans, thus formed, being low in front, and -rising very gradually at the sides and back, the person, whose duty it -is to attend to the drying of the leaves, can readily manage them, and -scatter them about over the back of the basin. The accompanying sketch, -which was made on the spot, will render this description more clear. - -[Illustration: Furnaces and Drying Pans.] - -The leaves having been brought in from the hills are placed in the -cottage or drying-house. It is now the duty of one individual to light -the little fire at the mouth of the flue, and to regulate it as nicely -as possible. The pans become hot very soon after the warm air has -begun to circulate in the flue beneath them. A quantity of leaves, -from a sieve or basket, are now thrown into the pans, and turned over, -shaken up, and kept in motion by men and women stationed there for this -purpose. The leaves are immediately affected by the heat. They begin to -crack, and become quite moist with the vapour or sap which they give -out on the application of the heat. This part of the process lasts -about five minutes, in which time the leaves lose their crispness, -and become soft and pliable. They are then taken out of the pans and -thrown upon a table, the upper part of which is made of split pieces of -bamboo as represented in the annexed sketch. Three or four persons now -surround the table, and the heap of tea leaves is divided into as many -parcels, each individual taking as many as he can hold in his hands, -and the rolling process commences. I cannot give a better idea of this -operation than by comparing it to a baker working and rolling his -dough. Both hands are used in the very same way; the object being to -express the sap and moisture, and at the same time to twist the leaves. -Two or three times during the operation the little bundles of rolled -leaves are held up and shaken out upon the table, and are then again -taken up and pressed and rolled as before. This part of the process -also lasts about five minutes, during which time a large portion of -green juice has been expressed, and may be seen finding its way down -between the interstices of the bamboos. The leaves being now pressed, -twisted, and curled, do not occupy a quarter of the space which they -did before the operation. - -[Illustration: The Rolling Process.] - -When the rolling process is completed the leaves are removed from the -table and shaken out for the last time, thinly, upon a large sort of -screen, also made out of split pieces of bamboo, and are exposed to the -action of the air. The best days for this purpose are those which are -dry and cloudy, with very little sun. The object being to expel the -moisture in the most gentle manner, and, at the same time, to allow the -leaves to remain as soft and pliable as possible. When the sun is clear -and powerful the moisture evaporates too rapidly, and the leaves are -left crisp, coarse, and not in a proper state to undergo the remaining -part of the process. There is no stated time for this exposure, as -much depends upon the nature of the weather and the convenience of the -work-people; sometimes I have seen them go on with the remaining part -of the operation without at all exposing the leaves to the air. - -Having in this manner got rid of a certain part of the superfluous -moisture, the leaves, which are now soft and pliant, are again -thrown into the drying-pans, and the second heating commences. -Again one individual takes his post at the furnace, and keeps up a -slow and steady fire. Others resume their places at the different -drying-pans--one at each--and commence stirring and throwing up the -leaves, so that they may all have an equal share of the fire, and none -get scorched or burned. The process of drying thus goes on slowly and -regularly. This part of the operation soon becomes more easy, for -the leaves, as they part with their moisture, twist and curl, and -consequently take up much less room than they do at first, and mix -together more readily. The tea leaves being now rather too hot for -the hand, a small and neat brush, made of bamboo, is used instead of -the fingers for stirring them up from the bottom of the pan. By this -means the leaves are scattered about on the smooth chunam-work, which -forms the back of the drying-pan, and, as they roll down on this heated -inclined plane they dry slowly, and twist at the same time. During -this operation the men and women who are employed never leave their -respective stations, one keeps slowly feeding the fire, and the others -continually stir the leaves. No very exact degree of temperature is -attempted to be kept up, for they do not use the thermometer, but a -slow and steady fire is quite sufficient; that is, the pan is made and -kept so hot, that I could not place my hand upon it for a second of -time. In order to get a correct idea of the time required to complete -this second part of the process, I referred to my watch on different -occasions, and at different tea farms, and always found that it -occupied about an hour; that is, from the time the leaves were put into -the pan after exposure to the air, until they were perfectly dry. - -When the operation of drying is going on largely, some of the pans -in the range are used for finishing the process, while others, and -the hottest ones, are heating and moistening the leaves before they -are squeezed and rolled. Thus a considerable number of hands can be -employed at once, and the work goes on rapidly without loss of time or -heat, the latter of which is of some importance in a country so ill -provided with fuel. - -The tea prepared in the manner which I have just described is greenish -in colour, and of a most excellent quality. It is called by the Chinese -in the province of Chekiang, _Tsaou-tsing_, or the tea which is _dried -in the pan_, to distinguish it from the _Hong-tsing_, or that kind -which is dried in flat bamboo baskets over a slow fire of charcoal. - -This latter kind--the _Hong-tsing_,--is prepared in the following -manner:--The first process, up to the period of rolling and exposure to -the air, is exactly the same as that which I have just described, but -instead of being put into the drying-pan for the second heating like -the _Tsaou-tsing_, the _Hong-tsing_ is shaken out into flat baskets, -which are placed over tubs containing charcoal and ashes. The charcoal, -when ignited, burns slowly and sends out a mild and gentle heat. -Indeed, the only difference between the two teas consists in the mode -of firing, the latter being dried less and more slowly than the former. -The _Hong-tsing_ is not so green in colour as the _Tsaou-tsing_, and I -believe has rarely been exported. - -After the drying is completed the tea is picked, sifted, divided into -different kinds and qualities, and prepared for packing. This is a -part of the operation which requires great care, more especially when -the tea is intended for the foreign market, as the value of the sample -depends much upon the "smallness and evenness" of the leaf, as well as -upon its other good qualities. In those districts where the teas are -manufactured solely for exportation, the natives are very particular in -the rolling process, and hence the teas from these districts are better -divided and more _even_--although I should doubt their being really -better in quality--than they are in the eastern parts of the province -of Chekiang. When they have been duly assorted, a man puts on a pair -of clean cloth or straw shoes, and treads the tea firmly into baskets -or boxes, and the operation is considered complete, in so far as the -grower is concerned. - -I have stated that the plants grown in the district of Chekiang produce -green teas, but it must not be supposed that they are the _green_ -teas which are exported to England. The leaf has a much more natural -colour, and has little or none of what we call the "beautiful bloom" -upon it, which is so much admired in Europe and America. There is now -no doubt that all these "blooming" green teas, which are manufactured -at Canton, are dyed with prussian blue and gypsum, to suit the taste -of the foreign "barbarians:" indeed, the process may be seen any day, -during the season, by those who will give themselves the trouble to -seek after it. It is very likely that the same ingredients are also -used in dying the northern green teas for the foreign market; of this, -however, I am not quite certain. There is a vegetable dye obtained from -_Isatis indigotica_ much used in the northern districts, and called -_Tein-ching_, and it is not unlikely that it may be the substance which -is employed. - -The Chinese never use these dyed teas themselves, and I certainly -think their taste in this respect is more correct than ours. It is -not to be supposed that the dye used can produce any very bad effects -upon the consumer, for, had this been the case, it would have been -discovered before now; but if entirely harmless or inert, its being so -must be ascribed to the very small quantity which is employed in the -manufacture. - -When the teas are ready for sale, the large tea merchants or their -servants come out from the principal towns of the district, and take -up their quarters in all the little inns or eating houses, which are -very numerous in every part of the country. They also bring coolies -loaded with the copper coin of the country, with which they pay for -their purchases. As soon as the merchants are known to have arrived in -the district, the tea growers bring their produce for inspection and -sale. These little farmers or their labourers may now be seen hastening -along the different roads, each with two baskets or chests slung across -his shoulder on his bamboo pole. When they arrive at the merchant's -abiding place the baskets are opened before him, and the quality of -the tea inspected. If he is pleased with its appearance and smell, and -the parties agree as to the price, the tea is weighed, the money paid -down, and the grower gets his strings of copper money slung over his -shoulder, and returns to his farm. But should the price offered appear -too low, the baskets are immediately shouldered with the greatest -apparent independence, and carried away to some opposition merchant. -It, however, sometimes happens that a merchant makes a contract with -some of the tea growers before the season commences, in which case -the price is arranged in the usual way, and generally a part paid in -advance. This, I understand, is frequently the case at Canton when a -foreign resident wishes to secure any particular kind of tea. - -After the teas are bought up in the district where they are grown, -they are conveyed to the most convenient town, where they are assorted -and properly packed for the European and American markets. Such is the -system of green tea culture and manufacture which came under my own -observation in the province of Chekiang. - -_The black tea districts_ of Fokien, which I visited, are managed in -the same way as those of Chekiang. - -I have already said that the species of plant which produces the black -teas near Foo-chow is the very same as that found in the green tea -districts of the north. Being further south, and of course in a hotter -climate, the tea plant of Fokien is generally grown at a high elevation -amongst the hills. At the risk of some little repetition I will insert -an account of my visit to the tea hills of Fokien. - -Every cottager, or small farmer, has two or three patches of tea -shrubs growing on the hill sides, which are generally planted and kept -in order by the members of his own family. When the gathering season -arrives, the cottage doors are locked, and all proceed to the hills -with their baskets and commence plucking the leaves. This business, of -course, only goes on during fine days when the leaves are dry. - -The first gathering takes place just when the leaf-buds begin to unfold -themselves in early spring. This tea is scarce and of a very superior -quality, being, in fact, the same, or nearly the same, as that which -is made from the young leaves in the green-tea district. The second -gathering produces the principal crop of the season; the third crop is -coarse and inferior. - -When the leaves are brought home from the hills, they are first of all -emptied out into large flat bamboo sieves, and, providing the day is -not too bright, are exposed in the open air to dry off any superfluous -moisture. When this moisture has evaporated, convenient portions of the -leaves are brought in and thrown into a round flat iron pan, such as -the Chinese use for boiling their rice, and are exposed to the heat of -a gentle fire which is lighted below them. As soon as this heat reaches -them, they give out a large quantity of moisture with a crackling -noise, and they soon become soft and pliant. The person who attends to -them stirs them about with his hands, and in about five minutes takes -them out and puts in a fresh supply. The heated leaves are emptied out -on a large round and flat bamboo sieve, which is placed upon a table -at a convenient height from the ground, and the process of rolling -commences. Three or four persons take a portion of the heated leaves -and begin to squeeze and roll them in the manner which I have already -described. This goes on for a minute or two, when each person takes his -portion and examines the effects which have already been produced; it -is then shaken well out upon the table, after which it is gathered up -and the operation of rolling and squeezing goes on as before. This is -repeated three or four times, and then the whole is shaken well out, -on another large flat bamboo sieve, in such a manner as to spread it -thinly upon it. - -Up to this stage of the process all the leaves have been subjected to -the same treatment. But the tea in this district is now divided into -two classes, each of which is treated in a peculiar manner. They are -called, in the language of the district, _Luk-cha_ and _Hong-cha_. The -former seems to be a kind of mixture of black and green, and I should -imagine it is only made for the use of the natives themselves; the -latter is our common black tea. - -_The Luk-cha_ is prepared in the following manner:--The leaves, after -being rolled and squeezed, are shaken out thinly and exposed to the air -to dry. Great care is taken not to expose them in this state to much -bright sunshine, and hence a fine dry day when the sun is partially -obscured by thin clouds is always preferred for this part of the -operation. After being exposed for an hour or two, or even longer, as -the case may be, for this depends upon a variety of circumstances, such -as the dryness of the air, or the convenience of the workpeople, they -are brought within doors, and the drying process commences. The flat -rice pan, in which they were first heated, is so constructed, that it -can be taken out at the pleasure of the cottager. It is now removed, -and a bamboo sieve, exactly the same size, is put into its place, and -filled with the leaves. A very slow and steady fire of wood or charcoal -is now kept up, and the remains of the moisture in the leaves is thus -gradually and slowly evaporated. After a few minutes the sieve is -lifted out and placed in one of a larger size with a closer bottom. -The leaves are then well shaken up and turned over, and any of the -smaller tea which falls through the open sieve, during the operation, -is thus collected in the under one and carefully saved. Both sieves are -now placed over the flue, and the leaves carefully watched and turned -frequently, for about an hour, when the tea is considered properly -fired. Sometimes, if the day is fine, it is exposed a little while to -the sun before it is packed away. - -_The Hong-cha_, or our common black tea, is prepared rather -differently. In the first place the natives seem more particular in -the rolling process, especially when it is for the foreign market, -although the operation is performed much in the same way. After heating -and rolling, the leaves are shaken out on large screens, and subjected -to the action of the open air; the natives in this, as in all other -cases, taking care not to expose them to a bright and burning sun. This -is a most important part of the manufacture. The black tea is left in -this state sometimes for two or three days before it is fired, which, -doubtless, is one cause why the colour of this tea is so much darker -than those kinds which are prepared from the same plants and quickly -dried. - -After being exposed for a sufficient length of time to the action of -the air, the leaves are taken in for the purpose of firing. Instead, -however, of being heated in baskets, like the other kind, this is -thrown at once into the pan. An old and experienced person takes his -place at the furnace, and keeps up a slow and steady fire, while it is -the duty of the younger branches of the family to keep the leaves in -the pan in continual motion and prevent them from being burned. This -is done by means of little hand-brushes made from the prolific bamboo, -the outer flinty part being split for this purpose. The tea prepared in -this manner soon becomes of a dark colour, and is quite different in -appearance from the _Luk-cha_. After it has been sufficiently dried, it -has, of course, to undergo the other operations of sifting, picking, -and dividing, before it is fit to be packed up for the foreign market. - -From hence it appears, that the black tea is rendered darker in colour, -first by being longer exposed to the air in a soft and moist state; and -secondly, by being subjected to a greater degree of fire-heat. With -regard to the green teas, there can be no doubt that those used by the -Chinese themselves are of the genuine colour which they acquire in the -drying; and that those "blooming" kinds, prepared to suit our depraved -tastes, are, one and all, dyed. Moreover, in conclusion, I may repeat, -what I have already proved, that the black and green teas of the north -are produced from the same species, the _Thea viridis_, and that the -true Canton teas are manufactured from the leaves of the _Thea Bohea_. -It therefore follows that the black teas can be, and, in fact, are made -from both species; and with regard to the green, as it is the result -of a dye, the Chinese, I doubt not, could substitute for that colour -either red or yellow, should our tastes change and lead us to prefer -more glaring tints! - -There are several different kinds of scented flowers, which are grown -in particular districts, for the purpose of mixing with and perfuming -the tea. Amongst these I may mention the following:--_Olea fragrans, -Chloranthus inconspicuus, Aglaia odorata_, &c. I believe these flowers -are dried by themselves, and afterwards mixed with the teas.[*] - - * In order to give the reader some idea of the different sorts of teas - manufactured for the European and American markets, I cannot do better - than quote some excellent remarks on this subject, by Sir John Francis - Davis, in his work, "The Chinese:"--[1] - - "As tea has always held so principal a place in our intercourse with - China, it requires some particular consideration as an article of - commerce. We have seen before, that the fineness and dearness of - tea are determined by the tenderness and smallness of the leaf when - picked. The various descriptions of the Black diminish in quality - and value as they are gathered later in the season, until they reach - the lowest kind, called by us Bohea, and by the Chinese (_Ta-cha_), - 'large tea' on account of the maturity and size of the leaves. The - early leaf-buds in spring, being covered with a white silky down, - are gathered to make Pekoe, which is a corruption of the Canton name - _Pak-ho_, 'white down.' A few days' longer growth produce what is - here styled 'black-leaved pekoe.' The more fleshy and matured leaves - constitute Souchong; as they grow larger and coarser they form Congou; - and the last and latest picking is Bohea. The tea-farmers, who are - small proprietors or cultivators, give the tea a rough preparation, - and then take it to the contractors, whose business it is to adapt - its farther preparation to the existing nature of the demand. The - different kinds of tea may be considered in the ascending scale of - their value. - - "1. Bohea, which in England is the name of a _quality_, has been - already stated to be, in China, the name of a district where various - kinds of black tea are produced. The coarse leaf brought under - that name to this country is distinguished by containing a larger - proportion of the woody fibre than other teas; its infusion is of a - darker colour, and as it has been more subjected to the action of - fire, it keeps a longer time without becoming musty than the finer - sorts. Two kinds of Bohea are brought from China: the lowest of these - is manufactured on the spot, and therefore called 'Canton Bohea,' - being a mixture of refuse Congou with a coarse tea called Woping, - the growth of the province. The better kind of Bohea comes from the - district of that name in Fokien, and, having been of late esteemed - equally with the lower Congou teas, has been packed in the same square - chests, while the old Bohea package is of an oblong shape. - - "2. Congou, the next higher kind, is named from a corruption of - the Chinese _Koong foo_, 'labour or assiduity.' It formed for many - years the bulk of the East India Company's cargoes; but the quality - gradually fell off, in consequence of the partial abandonment of - the old system of annual contracts, by which the Chinese merchants - were assured of a remunerating price for the better sorts. The - consumption of Bohea in this country has of late years increased, - to the diminution of Congou, and the standard of the latter has - been considerably lowered. A particular variety, called _Campoi_, - is so called from a corruption of the original name _Kien-peoy_, - 'selection--choice;' but it has ceased to be prized in this country, - from the absence of strength--a characteristic which is stated to be - generally esteemed beyond delicacy of flavour. - - "3. Souchong (_Seaou-choong_, 'small, or scarce sort') is the finest - of the stronger black teas, with a leaf that is generally entire - and curly, but more young than in the coarser kinds. What is called - 'Padre Souchong' is packed in separate paper bundles, of about half - a pound each, and is so fine as to be used almost exclusively for - presents. The probability is that its use in that way by the Catholic - missionaries first gave rise to the name. The finest kinds of - Souchong are sometimes scented with the flowers of the _Chloranthus - inconspicuus_, and _Gardenia florida_; and they cannot be obtained, - even among the Chinese, except at dear prices. A highly-crisped and - curled leaf called _Sonchi_, has lately grown into disrepute and - been much disused, in consequence of being often found to contain a - ferruginous dust, which was probably not intended as a fraud, but - arose from the nature of the ground, where the tea had been carelessly - and dirtily packed. - - "4. Pekoe being composed mainly of the young spring-buds, the - gathering of these must, of course, be injurious in some degree to - the future produce of the shrub, and this description of tea is - accordingly both dear and small in quantity. With a view to preserving - the fineness of flavour, the application of heat is very limited in - drying the leaves, and hence it is, that Pekoe is more liable to - injury from keeping than any other sort of tea. There is a species - of Pekoe made in the Green-tea country from the young buds, in like - manner with the black kind; but it is so little fired that the least - damp spoils it; and for this reason, as well as on account of its - scarcity and high price, the Hyson-pekoe as some call it, has never - been brought to England. The mandarins send it in very small canisters - to each other, or to their friends, as presents, under the name of - _Loong-tsing_, which is probably the name of the district where the - tea is made. - - "Green teas may generally be divided into five denominations, which - are--1. Twankey; 2. Hyson-skin; 3. Hyson; 4. Gunpowder; 5. Young - Hyson. Twankay tea has always formed the bulk of the green teas - imported into this country, being used by the retailers to mix with - the finer kinds. The leaf is older, and not so much twisted and - rolled as in the dearer descriptions: there is altogether less care - and trouble bestowed on its preparation. It is, in fact, the Bohea - of green teas; and the quantity of it brought to England has fully - equalled three-fourths of the whole importation of green. 'Hyson-skin' - is so named from the original Chinese term, in which connection the - skin means the _refuse_, or inferior portion of anything; in allusion, - perhaps, to the hide of an animal, or the rind of fruit. In preparing - the fine tea called Hyson, all those leaves that are of a coarser, - yellower, and less twisted or rolled appearance, are set apart and - sold as the refuse or 'skin-tea,' at a ranch inferior price. The - whole quantity, therefore, depends on, and bears a proportion to, the - whole quantity of Hyson manufactured, but seldom exceeds two or three - thousand chests in all. - - "The word Hyson is corrupted from the Chinese name, which signifies - 'flourishing spring,' this fine sort of tea being of course gathered - in the early part of the season. Every separate leaf is twisted and - rolled by hand, and it is on account of the extreme care and labour - required in its preparation, that the best Hyson tea is so difficult - to procure, and so expensive. By way of keeping up its quality, the - East India Company used to give a premium for the two best lots - annually presented to them for selection; and the tea-merchants were - stimulated to exertion, as much by the credit of the thing, as by - the actual gain in price. Gunpowder, as it is called, is nothing but - a more carefully picked Hyson, consisting of the best rolled and - roundest leaves, which give it that _granular_ appearance whence it - derives its name. For a similar reason, the Chinese call it _Choocha_, - 'pearl-tea.' Young Hyson, until it was spoiled by the large demand - of the Americans, was a genuine, delicate young leaf, called in the - original language _Yu-tsien_, 'before the rains,' because gathered - in the early spring. As it could not be fairly produced in any - large quantities, the call for it on the part of the Americans was - answered by cutting up and sifting _other_ green tea through sieves - of a certain size; and, as the Company's inspectors detected the - imposture, it formed no portion of their London importations. But the - abuse became still worse of late (as we shall presently see), for the - coarsest _black_ tea-leaves have been cut up, and then _coloured_ with - a preparation resembling the hue of green teas. - - "The remission of the tea duties in the United States occasioned, in - the years 1832 and 1833, a demand for green teas at Canton which could - not be supplied by the arrivals from the provinces. The Americans, - however, were obliged to sail with cargoes of green teas within the - favourable season; they were determined to have these teas; and the - Chinese were determined they should be supplied. Certain rumours being - afloat concerning the manufacture of green tea from old black leaves, - the writer of this became curious to ascertain the truth, and with - some difficulty persuaded a Hong merchant to conduct him, accompanied - by one of the inspectors, to the place where the operation was carried - on. Upon reaching the opposite side of the river, and entering one of - these laboratories of factitious Hyson, the parties were witnesses to - a strange scene. - - "In the first place, large quantities of black tea, which had been - damaged in consequence of the floods of the previous autumn, were - drying in baskets with sieve bottoms, placed over pans of charcoal. - The dried leaves were then transferred in portions of a few pounds - each to a great number of cast-iron pans, imbedded in chunam or - mortar, over furnaces. At each pan stood a workman stirring the - tea rapidly round with his hand, having previously added a small - quantity of _turmeric_ in powder, which of course gave the leaves - a yellowish or orange tinge; but they were still to be made green. - For this purpose some lumps of a fine blue were produced, together - with a white substance in powder, which from the names given to them - by the workmen, as well as their appearance, were known at once to - be _prussian blue_ and _gypsum_.[2] These were triturated finely - together with a small pestle, in such proportion as reduced the dark - colour of the blue to a light shade; and a quantity equal to a small - tea-spoonful of the powder being added to the yellowish leaves, these - were stirred as before over the fire, until the tea had taken the fine - bloom colour of Hyson, with very much the _same scent_. To prevent - all possibility of error regarding the substances employed, samples - of them, together with specimens of the leaves in each stage of the - process were carried away from the place. - - "The tea was then handed in small quantities, on broad shallow - baskets, to a number of women and children, who carefully picked out - the stalks, and coarse or uncurled leaves; and, when this had been - done, it was passed in succession through sieves of different degrees - of fineness. The first sifting produced what was sold as Hyson-skin, - and the last bore the name of Young Hyson. As the party did not see - the intermediate step between the picking and sifting, there is - reason to believe that the size of the leaves was first reduced by - chopping or cutting with shears. If the tea has not highly deleterious - qualities, it can only be in consequence of the colouring matter - existing in a small proportion to the leaf[3]; and the Chinese seemed - quite conscious of the real character of the occupation in which they - were engaged; for, on attempting to enter several other places where - the same process was going on, the doors were speedily closed upon the - party. Indeed, had it not been for the influence of the Hongist who - conducted them, there would have been little chance of their seeing as - much as they did." - - -[1] Charles Knight and Co., Ludgate Street, 1840. - -[2] Prussiate of iron, and sulphate of lime. - -[3] The turmeric and gypsum are perfectly innocuous; but the prussian -blue, being a combination of prussic acid with iron, is a poison. - - - - CHAP. XII. - -CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.--STORM IN A SMALL BOAT.--NEARLY UPSET.--KIN-TANG, -OR SILVER ISLAND.--ITS INHABITANTS.--THEIR SURPRISE ON SEEING A -FOREIGNER.--YANG-TSE-KIANG RIVER.--ITS NUMEROUS SAND BANKS.--OUR -SCHOONER AGROUND.--NOVEL METHOD OF GETTING ASSISTANCE FROM THE -CHINESE.--VILLAGE OF WOO-SUNG.--OPIUM STATION.--REMARKS ON THE OPIUM -TRADE.--ITS EFFECTS UPON THE CHINESE. - - -In the summer of 1844 I was frequently engaged in exploring the islands -of the Chusan Archipelago, more particularly that portion which lies -between Chusan and the opposite shores of the main-land. It was of -course necessary for this purpose to employ Chinese boats, which -are not very trustworthy. The distance from Chusan to the town of -Chinhae, at the mouth of the Ning-po river, is about thirty miles. A -sail across a sea such as this is generally pleasant enough, because -the water, which is hemmed in on all sides, is frequently as smooth -as a mill-pond. Sometimes, however, the wind comes down in gusts from -the openings amongst the hills, and then the little China boats are -all laid nearly upon their beam-ends before the sail can be taken in. -Once, in particular, I had a narrow escape from a watery grave amongst -these islands. I had engaged a boat to take me across from the city of -Ning-po to Chusan; and, as I was in a hurry at the time, I was anxious -to reach my destination as soon as possible. The wind blew rather -fresh as we were going down the Ning-po river, and when we reached the -town of Chinhae, at its mouth, evening had set in, and the sky had a -threatening and stormy appearance. The boatmen pointed this out to -me, and were anxious to remain where we were until daylight. As I was -afraid of being too late for a passage in an English vessel, which -was then at anchor in the bay of Chusan, I would not consent to this -prudent proposal, but insisted that they should proceed across without -further delay. After exhausting all their arguments, they at length -unwillingly got up the anchor, and we proceeded on our voyage. The -land and hills on our way from Ning-po to the mouth of the river had -sheltered us, and prevented me from feeling the full force of the wind; -but no sooner had we passed the forts, and reached the open sea, than -I found I had done a very foolish thing in urging the boatmen to take -me across in such a night, and I would gladly have gone back had it -been prudent or indeed possible to have done so. It was now, however, -too late, for with a strong spring tide and a heavy head sea, it was -impossible to get back again to Chinhae, and we therefore kept on in -the direction of Chusan. "Are you not carrying too much sail in such a -wind as this, and with such a heavy rolling sea?" said I to the captain -of the boat, an old weather-beaten man from the province of Fokien. -"No fear, no fear," he replied in his broken Chusan English, "my can -manage he." "But I think there is fear, Fokei," I replied; and the -words were scarcely said, when a tremendous gust came down upon us, and -at the same moment a heavy sea struck the side of our boat, and laid -her fairly on her beam-ends. In an instant the boat filled in all her -divisions from bow to stern. "Lower the sail, lower the sail, quick, -quick," cried the helmsman, "or we shall all go to the bottom." Several -of the crew flew to the sail, which fortunately came down readily, and -our little craft righted once more, but rolled and plunged very heavily -in consequence of the great quantity of water in her hold, and seemed -as if she would go down at every plunge, and leave us exposed to the -fury of the waves. We again got a few feet of sail hoisted, and kept -her away before the wind. It was now dark, not a star was to be seen in -the heavens, the mountains, although not distinctly visible, yet loomed -through the gloom, and the only objects clearly distinguished were -some lights flickering on the distant shore. The crew now surrounded -the helmsman, and besought him to try and get back to Chinhae, but I -was sailor enough to know that if we attempted to put the helm down -and bring the boat round, in all probability we should ship another -sea, and had we done so we must have gone down. I immediately went and -stood by the helmsman, and kept the crew from interfering, telling him -to keep on our course and try to get under the lee of some island as -soon as possible. The men now began to throw off their clothes as a -last resource, and so completely lost all their self-possession that no -remonstrances could induce them to attend to the boat and get some of -the water out of her. The captain or helmsman, however, did his duty -well, and to his firmness and knowledge we, doubtless, owed our lives. -Providentially the wind lulled for a short time, which enabled us to -hoist more sail; and soon afterwards we got to leeward of one of the -numerous small islands which are scattered over this part of the coast. -As soon as we had anchored all hands began baling the water out of the -boat. We were in a most pitiful condition, all our clothes and beds -being completely soaked with seawater; some plants, but luckily only -duplicates, which I had with me, were, of course, totally destroyed; -but our hearts were light, and we were thankful that our lives had been -saved. Before daylight the boat was all right again, and as the weather -had moderated, we were able to proceed on our course to Chusan. - -Kintang, or Silver Island, as it is called by the English, is a large -island in this archipelago. Although near Chusan, it was seldom visited -by any of the English there; but its hills and valleys were very -interesting in a botanical point of view, and on that account I was in -the habit of anchoring my little boat in some of its numerous bays, -and exploring its botanical productions. The surprise of the simple -inhabitants, many of whom had never left the island in their lives, -was often very great when I came down unexpectedly upon their little -villages. The reader will easily credit this, if he will only picture -to himself the surprise and astonishment with which a Chinese would be -regarded were he to appear suddenly in some secluded village in the -highlands of Scotland or Wales, where no such phenomenon had ever been -seen before. I remember, on one occasion, that having toiled up to the -top of one of the beautiful hills on the island of Kintang, I observed -on the other side of the hill, a few yards below me, a Chinese youth -engaged in cutting the long grass and bushes for fire-wood. As he was -employed he did not observe me, and I approached the place where he -was at work, and standing upon a rock a few feet above him, made some -noise to attract his attention. He looked up, and never shall I forget -the look he gave me. Had I been a being from another world he could -not have been more astonished; indeed, I suppose he thought that I had -fallen from the clouds, or come out from the bowels of the hills. For -a second or two he stood in silent amazement, seemingly completely -paralysed, and then throwing his grass-knife away, fled down the hill -over rocks and stones with a rapidity hardly credible, nor did he -ever look behind, until he had crossed the narrow valley, and reached -the village on the opposite side. The news was soon communicated to -the villagers, who rushed out of their houses and assembled in great -numbers in front of their buildings. I walked slowly and quietly down -towards them, and soon removed all their fears. My young friend the -grass cutter was very shy at first, but we parted excellent friends. - -The port of Shanghae is situated about 80 or 100 miles to the -north-west of Chusan, the latter being in lat. 30° north, and the -former in 31° 20'. On leaving the Chusan group of Islands, and sailing -to the northward in the direction of Shanghae we pass the Bay of -Hangchow on the left, and enter the mouth of the noble Yang-tse-kiang, -the "child of the Ocean," as its name implies. The country, which, up -to this degree of latitude from the south, is very mountainous, now -changes, and becomes perfectly level. The shores of the river are, -in many places, lower than the river itself, which is kept within -its bounds by large and strong embankments. The mountainous scenery -disappears entirely, and even from the top of the highest mast of -a ship, no hill is seen to bound the distant horizon--all the view -is a vast level plain. This is what is called the valley of the -Yang-tse-kiang, and is the great northern Nanking cotton district. The -land is a deep rich loam, and is without doubt the finest in China, if -not in the world. - -At the entrance of the river, the navigation is rather difficult, -particularly in thick weather, owing partly to the numerous sand banks, -which are all covered at high water, and partly to the difficulty of -getting prominent land-marks. Since the opening of the trade in 1843 -several ships have got entangled amongst these banks, and have been -totally wrecked. When I first visited the Yang-tse-kiang, it was quite -a common occurrence for vessels to get aground at low water, but as the -greater part of them were small opium clippers, commanded by men who -knew the region well, they generally got easily off again when the tide -flowed. One evening in April, we were sailing up this river with a fair -light breeze, which was sending us on at the rate of six or seven miles -an hour. The man at the lead was singing out his soundings; and as it -was "and a half three," and "by the mark three," the captain concluded -that we were in the right channel, and went below for a minute or two. -The leadsman was still singing out three fathoms, when, all at once, -we felt the bottom of the vessel touch the ground, and in two seconds -she was hard and fast in the mud. The tide was ebbing rapidly at the -time, and as one side of the schooner was in deeper water, we were -obliged to get out all the spare planking we had to prop the vessel -and prevent her from falling over. The next question was, how we were -to get off when the tide rose. In the course of the afternoon, we had -observed a number of junks astern of us, coming up the river and bound -for Shanghae. Some of these were now within a quarter of a mile, and -had dropt their anchors until the commencement of the flood tide. After -some consultation, the captain came to the determination of boarding -one of them, and getting the people to shift their anchoring ground -and come a little nearer the schooner, so that a rope might be passed -from the one to the other, and our vessel hauled off when the tide -was sufficiently high to float her. As I was able to speak a little -Chinese, I was asked to go in the boat and explain what our object -was, and likewise to tell them that they should be well paid for their -trouble. The boat's crew armed themselves with cutlasses, and, in order -to render the business more imposing, the captain put on an old uniform -which had formerly belonged to a naval officer, and with a cocked hat -on his head and a sword dangling at his side took his seat in the boat. -The night was dark but fine, and we could just discern the masts of the -nearest junk. In a few minutes we were alongside, and were challenged -by the man who had the watch upon deck, and who at the same moment, -seeing we were foreigners, ran to give the alarm, exclaiming that the -_Hong-mou-jins_, or "red-haired men," were upon them. Without further -parley we sprang into the junk, and when we looked round we found her -decks deserted--the watch and every body else having hid themselves -below. The captain directed our men to go down the hatchways and try to -get the Chinese upon deck, but he gave them strict orders to use them -kindly. It was not a little amusing to see our tars going about this -part of the business, which they did with right good will and glee. -They soon dragged the Chinamen out of their hiding places, and, much -against their inclination, mustered them on deck. I now explained to -their captain that our intentions were peaceful, but that our vessel -was in very great danger, and that it was absolutely necessary they -should get up their anchor immediately, and come to our assistance. -At the same time, I told them that they should receive twenty dollars -for their trouble. They now held a consultation amongst themselves, -and at last came and informed us that they would render the required -assistance on the following morning. This, however, would not answer -our purpose, and besides we knew enough of the Chinese to be perfectly -aware that this "to-morrow" would never come, and was only said to get -rid of us altogether, and leave us to our fate. We therefore told them -that this arrangement would not suit us, and again requested them to -get up their anchor. Another consultation was held, and as it was quite -evident to me that they were procrastinating, and that we might go on -in this manner all night, I advised the master of our schooner to set -his own men to work to heave up the Chinaman's anchor, and hoist her -sail. The sailors, who were getting rather impatient, gladly obeyed -these orders, and when the junk's crew saw what was going on, they also -gave their assistance, so that in a few minutes we were under weigh. -Having gone as near the schooner as we considered prudent, the anchor -was dropped, and a strong rope made fast to the two vessels in order -to draw ours off the mud when the tide rose high enough to float her. -This was accomplished during the night, and we were safely anchored in -three fathoms of water. At daylight, however, we found that our Chinese -friends had made sail, and gone away without waiting to claim the -promised reward. - -The small village of Woosung, where one of the battles was fought -during the last war, stands on the banks of another river, commonly -known as the "Shanghae river" by Europeans, and at the point where it -falls into the Yang-tse-Kiang. This is one of the principal stations in -China for the opium merchant vessels, and I believe latterly more of -the drug has been sold here than at all the other stations put together. - -So much has been said about this trade and opium smoking, that a few -remarks upon the subject will not be out of place here. It is well -known that the greater part of the opium which is brought to the -Chinese coast is grown and manufactured in our East Indian possessions. -Those English or American merchants who deal largely in this production -employ very fast sailing vessels for bringing it from India to China, -and also keep up what are called receiving ships in many of the bays or -harbours along the coast of China. These receiving ships are regularly -supplied by the fast-sailing vessels which bring their cargoes from -India or Hong-kong. The Chinese smugglers come out from the adjoining -bays and towns, in small boats, well manned and armed, in order to -protect their property, which is generally of great value. Silver, in -the form of South American dollars or Sycee, is bartered for the opium -at all those stations on the coast, where no other trade is carried on; -at other places the foreign merchants often find it advantageous to -barter the opium in exchange for raw silks and teas, which are the two -chief exports of the country. - -The statements which have been frequently made in England, both -as regards the smuggling and the smoking of opium are very much -exaggerated. When I first went to China, I expected to find those -merchants who were engaged in this trade little else than armed -buccaneers, indeed, if I do not mistake, they have been represented -as characters of this kind on the English stage. Instead of this, the -trade is conducted by men of the highest respectability, possessed of -immense capital, and who are known and esteemed as merchants of the -first class in every part of the civilised world. The trade in opium, -although contraband, is so unlike what is generally called smuggling, -that people at a distance are deceived by the term. It may be quite -true that its introduction and use are prohibited by the Chinese -government, but that prohibition is merely an empty sound, which, in -fact, means nothing. The whole, or at least the greater part, of the -mandarins use it, and it is not at all unlikely that his Celestial -Majesty himself makes one of the number of its devotees. The truth is, -the Chinese government, whatever it may say, has no wish to put a stop -to its introduction. It is necessary, however, to publish every now and -then strong threatening edicts against it, which are only consigned -to oblivion in the pages of the Peking Gazette, and have no effect -whatever in restraining the Emperor's loyal subjects. It is now the -opinion of all intelligent foreigners, and also of many of the more -enlightened amongst the Chinese themselves, that the importation of -opium ought to be legalised, and that it should be admitted at a small -duty, as, by this means, much of the demoralising effects of smuggling -would be got rid of, and a considerable revenue would flow into the -coffers of the Chinese treasury. - -Many instances of the feeble kind of opposition which the Chinese -government employ to stop the opium trade, occurred during my residence -in the country. Sometimes an admiral, renowned for his valour, was -sent with a number of war junks to a particular station, where the -opium ships were anchored, for the purpose of compelling them to leave -the Chinese shores. Gongs were beat, guns were fired, at a respectful -distance, however, and the junks came down with all that pomp and -parade which the Chinese know so well how to assume, and which seem -to form a principal part of their warlike operations. In the meantime -the little opium vessels were laying quietly at anchor, apparently -paying but slight attention to all these threatening demonstrations. -Presently a message was sent from the admiral, ordering them to get up -their anchors and stand out to sea, and never more to dare to enter the -waters of his celestial majesty under the penalty of being completely -annihilated. - -A summons like this in former days might have had some weight, but now -it had none; and the only answer the messengers carried back was, "that -the foreign vessels were well armed, and that they would not leave -their anchorage." This was quite sufficient to cool the courage of the -admiral, who was now in a dilemma; he durst not light the "barbarians," -and if he did not manage to get them out of the way, his character for -courage would suffer when the affair was represented at head quarters. -He therefore altered his tone, and _requested_ the captains, as a -great favour, to leave the anchorage and move outside for a day or two -only, after which time they might return to their old quarters. This -was agreed to on the part of the captains of the opium vessels, and on -the following morning they got under weigh and went out to sea. The -Chinese, who were on the look-out at the time, made a great noise by -beating gongs and firing guns, and followed the opium ships until they -were fairly outside. The admiral now sent up a report to his government -to the effect that he had fought a great battle with the "barbarians," -and had driven them away from the shores; or very probably he said that -he had blown some of their vessels to pieces, and sunk the rest in the -depths of the sea. In the meantime, even before the report was half-way -to Peking, the opium vessels had quietly taken up their old anchorage, -and things were going on in the usual way! Such is a specimen of the -way in which affairs are managed in China. - -The opium from Bengal, which consists of two kinds--namely, _Patna_ and -_Benares_--is always of a good quality and pure, but the Bombay _Malwa_ -is now so much mixed up with other ingredients, that the Chinese -smuggler will not buy it until he has had an opportunity of testing -its quality. This is done in the following manner:--having selected -the chest or number of chests which he wishes to purchase, they are -opened, and he takes out three or four of the worst-looking cakes, cuts -a small piece from each, and dissolves them in a copper ladle over a -charcoal fire. When the opium is melted, it is poured out into a coarse -paper filter. If it is not of the worst description, it readily passes -through the paper into a small basin, which is placed under it. When -it will not pass through the filter, the Chinese call it _Man-ling_, -by which name they designate opium which is so bad, or so mixed with -extraneous ingredients, that it will not dissolve in water or pass -through the paper filter. This description of the drug is, of course, -only bought at a very reduced price. - -When the mixture passes through the filter, the paper is carefully -examined, and if any sediment remains, such as sand or rubbish, with -which the opium is frequently adulterated, it detracts considerably -from its value. This filtered mixture is now put again into a clear -copper pan, and boiled slowly over the charcoal fire, until the whole -of the water is evaporated, and nothing remains but pure opium. The -drug is then poured out into a small porcelain cup, and stirred -round and examined with great care. At this stage of the process, -colour forms the principal test of its quality, and as the smuggler -stirs it round, and holds it up to the light, he pronounces it to be -"_tung-kow_" if it is thick like jelly; "_pak-chat_," if it has a -whitish colour; "_hong-chat_," if it is red; and "_kong-see-pak_," if -it is opium of the first quality, or like that sent round by the East -India Company. - -Opium is prepared for smoking much in the same manner as I have just -described, and is kept in small cups, which are made for the purpose. -The smoker lays his head upon a pillow, has a lamp by his side, and -with a kind of needle he lifts a small portion of the opium to the -candle; and having ignited it, he puts it into the small aperture of -the bowl of the pipe. The candle is applied to the bowl during the -process of inhaling, and the smoke is drawn into the lungs in the same -manner as an Indian or Chinese swallows tobacco. A whiff or two is all -that can be drawn from a single pipe, and, therefore, those who are -accustomed to the use of the drug have frequently to renew the dose. - -No one who has seen any thing of the habits of the Chinese, will -deny that the use of opium, particularly when taken to excess, has -a most pernicious effect both upon the constitution and morals of -its victims. From my own experience, however, I have no hesitation -in saying that the number of persons who use it to excess has been -very much exaggerated; it is quite true that a very large quantity of -the drug is yearly imported from India, but then we must take into -consideration the vast extent of the Chinese empire, and its population -of 300,000,000 of people. I have, when travelling in different parts -of the country, often been in company with opium smokers, and am -consequently able to speak with some confidence with regard to their -habits. I well remember the impressions I had on this subject before -I left England, and my surprise when I was first in the company of an -opium smoker who was enjoying his favourite stimulant. When the man -lay down upon the couch, and began to inhale the fumes of the opium, I -observed him attentively, expecting in a minute or two to see him in -his "third heaven of bliss;" but no: after he had taken a few whiffs -he quietly resigned the pipe to one of his friends, and walked away to -his business. Several others of the party did exactly the same. Since -then I have often seen the drug used, and I can assert that in the -great majority of cases it was not immoderately indulged in. At the -same time I am well aware that, like the use of ardent spirits in our -own country, it is frequently carried to a most lamentable excess. Lord -Jocelyn, in his "Campaign in China," gives the following account of its -effects, which he witnessed upon the Chinese at Singapore. "A few days -of this fearful luxury, when taken to excess, will give a pallid and -haggard look to the face, and a few months, or even weeks, will change -the strong and healthy man into little better than an idiot skeleton. -The pain they suffer when deprived of the drug after long habit, no -language can explain; and it is only when to a certain degree under -its influence that their faculties are alive. In the houses devoted -to their ruin, these infatuated people may be seen at nine o'clock in -the evening in all the different stages; some entering half distracted -to feed the craving appetite they had been obliged to subdue during -the day; others laughing and talking wildly under the effects of a -first pipe; whilst the couches around are filled with their different -occupants, who lie languid with an idiot smile upon their countenance, -too much under the influence of the drug to care for passing events, -and fast merging to the wished-for consummation. The last scene in this -tragic play is generally a room in the rear of the building, a species -of dead-house, where lie stretched those who have passed into the state -of bliss the opium smoker madly seeks--an emblem of the long sleep to -which he is blindly hurrying." - -[Illustration: Opium Pipe.] - - - - CHAP. XIII. - -SHANGHAE IN 1844.--ITS GARDENS AND PLANTS.--START FOR THE HILLS IN -THE INTERIOR.--CANALS AND BRIDGES.--ADVENTURE WITH MY PONY.--THE -"TEIN-CHING," OR BLUE DYE, FOUND.--HILLS AND THEIR VEGETATION -DESCRIBED.--THE SURPRISE OF THE NATIVES ON SEEING A FOREIGNER.--THEIR -CURIOSITY AND HONESTY!--PLANTS SENT TO ENGLAND.--ANOTHER JOURNEY -INTO THE INTERIOR.--SOME LARGE NORTHERN CITIES NOTICED.--A MIDNIGHT -VISIT FROM THIEVES.--THE FAR-FAMED CITY OF SOO-CHOW-FOO VISITED.--A -DESCRIPTION OF IT.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--CENTRAL POSITION OF SOO-CHOW AS -A PLACE OF TRADE.--BATHS FOR THE MILLION.--RETURN TO SHANGHAE. - - -I again visited Shanghae on the 18th of April, 1844, and spent two or -three weeks there at different times. My principal object was to see -all the plants in the different northern districts as they came into -flower, and it was therefore necessary that I should stay as short -a time as possible in each place. I have mentioned that I purchased -a collection of _Tree Pæonies_ during my first visit to Shanghae in -the winter of 1843, which were said to be very splendid things, and -entirely different in colour from any plants of the kind which were -known in England. I had of course, at that time, no opportunity of -seeing their flowers, and was now, therefore, particularly anxious to -get some which were in bloom, and had intended to send my old friend -back again to Soo-chow for another collection, stipulating, however, -that the plants should this time have blooms upon them. One morning, -however, as I was going out into the country, a short distance from -Shanghae, I was surprised at meeting a garden labourer with a load of -Moutans all in full flower, which he was taking towards the city for -sale. The flowers were very large and fine, and the colours were _dark -purples, lilacs_, and _deep reds_, kinds of which the very existence -had been always doubted in England, and which are never seen even at -Canton. Two English gentlemen who were excellent Chinese scholars, -being with me at the time, we soon found out the name of the Moutan -district; and from the state of the roots in the man's basket, I was -quite certain that the plants had not been more than an hour or two out -of the ground, and that consequently the place where they were grown -could not be more than six or eight miles from Shanghae, a surmise -which I afterwards found to be perfectly correct. This was doubtless -the place where my nursery friend had procured his plants in the -previous autumn, and where he would have gone again had I not been -lucky enough to find that I could easily go there myself. Indeed, I -afterwards discovered that there was no Moutan country in the vicinity -of Soo-chow, having met a man from that place in the Shanghae district, -where he had come for the express purpose of buying Tree Pæonies. I -now went into the Moutan district daily during the time the different -plants were coming into bloom, and secured some most striking and -beautiful kinds for the Horticultural Society. - -Several very distinct and beautiful Azaleas were added to my -collections at Shanghae, as well as many other plants of an ornamental -character which have not yet been described. I fully expect that many -of these will prove hardy enough to thrive in the open air in England, -and that others will make excellent plants for the greenhouse. - -Being now well acquainted with the country in the immediate vicinity -of Shanghae, I was anxious to extend my researches into the interior, -particularly as far as some hills which were said to be about thirty -miles distant, in a westerly direction. It was extremely difficult -to gain any information on this subject from the Chinese, who were -particularly jealous of foreigners going any distance inland. Their -suspicious feelings had also been much increased at this time, by the -indiscretion of some of our own countrymen, who had hired a boat and -gone a considerable distance up one of the rivers, taking soundings -with bamboo poles, in the manner of the Chinese. The authorities -suspected that they had some particular object in view in ascertaining -the depth of the river, and immediately complained to Captain Balfour, -the English consul, who was consequently obliged to notice the -circumstance. - -Being determined, however, to make an effort to accomplish the object -I had in view, I procured a pony and a pocket compass, and started -off one morning early on a voyage of discovery. The hills were said -to lie westerly, and in that direction I rode for eight or ten miles -without seeing anything higher than a mound of earth. The compass was -my only guide both in going and also in finding my way back again; the -roads were generally not more than four or six feet wide, but still -the country had its highways and byways, and for a length of time I -was fortunate enough to keep on the former; as long as I did so, I got -easily over the numerous canals which intersect the country in all -directions, because wherever these are crossed by the main road, good -substantial stone bridges are erected. At last I got a glimpse of the -hills in the distance, and in my anxiety to take the shortest road, I -lost sight of the highway, and got entangled amongst byways and canals. -I was soon in a somewhat critical position, the bridges which I was -constantly crossing were old, narrow, and rotten, and the feet of my -pony were every now and then getting entangled between the planks. -At length we came to one much worse than the others, and although I -got off and did every thing to persuade the pony to follow me over -it, with great reluctance he attempted to do so, but when about the -centre of the bridge, his feet got fast in the rotten planking, and in -the struggle to free himself, the centre gave way; I had just time to -spring to the bank, when the bridge and pony both fell into the canal. -Luckily for me the poor animal swam to the side I was on, and allowed -me to catch him when he got out of the water: he was completely covered -with mud, and my saddle and bridle were of course in a sad condition. -By the assistance of some labourers who were at work within a short -distance, I was soon enabled to get out of this network of canals, and -regain the main road; but this was a lesson to me, and as long as I -was in China, I never afterwards went off the main road when I was on -horseback. - -I reached a small town in the vicinity of the hills about two o'clock -in the afternoon; the pony having had nothing to eat since we left -Shanghae, was much exhausted, and I was therefore anxious to procure -a feed of corn for him at some of the shops. The news of the presence -of a foreigner in the town spread like lightning, and I was soon -surrounded and followed by some thousands of people of both sexes, -young and old, who were all anxious to get a glimpse of my features and -dress. Their behaviour on the whole, however, was civil and respectful, -and the only inconvenience I had to complain of was the pressure of the -crowd. For a few of the copper coin of the country, a boy had promised -to take me to a shop where I could purchase something for the pony, and -we wended our way through the crowd, which was every moment becoming -more dense, towards, as I supposed, a corn or hay shop. At last, to my -surprise, he came to a halt in front of an eating house, and my guide -came and asked me for money to go in and buy some boiled rice. "But I -want a feed for the pony," said I. "Very well, give me the money, and I -will fetch you a basin of boiled rice for him." "You had better bring -him a pair of chopsticks also," said I, as I put the money into his -hand. The idea of a pony eating with chopsticks delighted the crowd, -and put them into high good humour: during my travels in the interior, -I often found the benefit of having a joke with the natives. - -My pony seemed to enjoy the meal which was set before him, and I too -had some rice from the same pot. I then proceeded on foot to examine -the nearest hill, and soon came to the conclusion that it would be -advantageous for me to be some days in the vicinity of this place. As I -could not trust the natives with the pony, which belonged to the head -mandarin in Shanghae, I determined to take him home again myself, and -hire a boat with which I could return by any of the numerous canals -which branch all over the country, and stay as long as I pleased. I -reached Shanghae late on the same evening, weary enough, having ridden -at least sixty miles during the day. - -A few days after this, having engaged a boat, I started early one -morning, and taking advantage of the tide, which ebbs and flows over -all this part of the country, I reached the hills on the same evening. -The country through which I passed was rich and fertile, cotton forming -the staple production of the fields in the neighbourhood of Shanghae. -After passing the cotton district, I came into a tract of country in -which a cruciferous plant seemed to be principally cultivated. From -this plant a kind of indigo or blue dye is prepared; it is called -_Tein-ching_ by the Chinese. Very large quantities of this substance -are brought to Shanghae, and all the other towns in the north of -China, where it is used in dyeing the blue cotton cloth, which forms -the principal article of dress of the poorer classes. I brought home -living specimens of the plant which produces this dye, and as these are -now in flower in the gardens of the Horticultural Society, the proper -scientific name of the plant will soon be ascertained.[1] - -As I approached the hills the level of the country became lower, and -at that time of the year (June) it was completely flooded, and rice -was extensively cultivated. In general, the higher land of this vast -plain is used in the cultivation of cotton and the cruciferous plant -mentioned above; while the lower lands, those which are easily flooded, -are converted into rice fields. Here and there on my way I met with -large trees of the _Salisburia adiantifolia_, which are the largest -and most striking trees in this part of the country. Small patches of -bamboo were seen around all the villages, and groups of cypress and -pine generally marked the last resting places of the Chinese, which are -scattered over all the country. - -The hills were very different from any which I had seen in the more -southern parts of China: they are not more than 400 feet in height, -and have none of that bold and rugged character which I have formerly -noticed. Here and there crumbling rocks show themselves above the -surface, but these are not so general as to affect the general -pastoral-looking appearance of these hills. The country is also more -richly wooded than any other part near Shanghae, and, of course, -contains a greater number of species of plants. One curious fact, -however, came under my notice: no Azaleas were met with in this part -of the country, although the hills about sixty or eighty miles to the -south abound in such plants; and, although the other plants, which -accompany Azaleas on the Chusan and Ning-po hills, were here growing in -all their native luxuriance, these, their more lovely companions, were -not to be found. I can scarcely believe that the hills between Ning-po -and Shanghae are the most northern limit for this class of plants; yet -such from my own observations would appear to be the case. - -The natives in this part of the country were vastly surprised when they -saw me for the first time; at the different villages and towns, men, -women, and children of all ranks lined the banks of the canals as my -boat passed along, and often requested me to come out in order that -they might have a better opportunity of seeing me. "When I left my boat -for the purpose of ascending the hills, my boatmen used to make a good -deal of money by allowing the people to go in and inspect my little -cabin. A copy of the "Pictorial Times," which I happened to have with -me, was greatly admired, and I was obliged to leave it amongst them. It -is a remarkable fact, however, that nothing, as far as I know, was ever -stolen from me at this time, although several hundred persons visited -my boat in my absence. The boatmen must either have been very sharp, -or the people must have had a superstitious dread of the property of a -foreigner: to put it down to their honour is, I am afraid, out of the -question! - -Having finished my researches amongst the hills, I left this part of -the country and returned to Shanghae. The "Helen Stuart," one of the -first vessels which left Shanghae for England direct, was at this time -ready for sea, and I availed myself of this opportunity to send some -cases of plants to the Horticultural Society, which, I regret to say, -arrived in very bad condition. When I had despatched these cases, I -determined on another journey into the interior. - -Every one who has been in China, or who is at all acquainted with -Chinese history, has heard of the city of _Soo-chow-foo_. If a stranger -enters a shop in Hong-Kong, in Canton, or in any of the other towns in -the south, he is sure to be told, when he inquires the price of any -curiosity out of the common way, that it has been brought from this -celebrated place; let him order any thing superb, and it must be sent -for from Soo-chow--fine pictures, fine carved work, fine silks, and -fine ladies, all come from Soo-chow.--It is the Chinaman's earthly -paradise, and it would be hard indeed to convince him that it had its -equal in any town on earth. In addition to its other attractions, I -was informed by the Chinese nursery gardeners at Shanghae that it -contained a great number of excellent flower gardens and nurseries, -from which they obtained all or nearly all the plants which they had -for sale, and I was, therefore, strongly tempted to infringe the absurd -laws of the Celestial Empire, and try to reach this far-famed place. -My greatest difficulty was to meet with boatmen who would travel with -me, as they were all frightened for the mandarins, who had issued -very stringent orders to them after the circumstance happened which I -have already noticed. They were told, that they might take foreigners -down the river towards the sea, and up as far as a pagoda a mile or -two above Shanghae, but on no account were they to go up the western -branch of the river. This was a direct infringement on the right which -had been secured to us by the treaty of Nanking, and her Majesty's -consul at this port soon found it necessary and prudent to interfere -in the matter. Some time after this period, when what are called the -boundaries were fixed, the foreign residents were allowed to go a day's -journey into the interior, that is, as far as they could go and come -back again in twenty-four hours. - -Having at length procured a boat, we set off on our journey, the -boatmen neither knowing where I intended to go to, or how long I was -to be absent from Shanghae. I simply told them we were going into the -country in search of plants, and that they must take a supply of rice -for several days. My Chinese servant, who always accompanied me, also -informed them, that it was a common thing for me to wander about the -country in search of plants, but that I was _perfectly harmless_, -and would take care that they should not get into any trouble on my -account. This gave them some confidence, and as the wind and tide were -both in our favour, we were soon a considerable distance away from -Shanghae. As I knew pretty well in what direction Soo-chow lay, I took -my course by a pocket compass which I always carried with me. After -getting twenty or thirty miles from Shanghae, I judged it prudent -to break the subject of my wishes to my companions. First of all, I -took my servant aside; he was a most active fellow, and capable of -persuading the others to do any thing he liked. "Now," said I to him, -"I want to visit Soo-chow, and if you will persuade the boatmen to go -on there, I will make you a present of five dollars when we return; -besides, you may tell the men that I shall double the amount of the -hire which I have already promised them." Upon this a long conference -ensued, the result of which was that they determined to accept my offer. - -I was, of course, travelling in the Chinese costume; my head was -shaved, I had a splendid wig and tail, of which some Chinaman informer -days had doubtless been extremely vain, and upon the whole I believe I -made a pretty fair Chinaman. Although the Chinese countenance and eye -differ considerably from those of a native of Europe, yet a traveller -in the north has far greater chance of escaping detection than in -the south of China, the features of the northern natives approaching -more nearly to those of Europeans than they do in the south, and the -difference amongst themselves also being greater. - -In China, the canal is the traveller's highway, and the boat is his -carriage, and hence the absence of good roads and carriages in this -country. Such a mode of conveyance is not without its advantages, -however little we may think of it in England; for as the tide ebbs -and flows through the interior for many miles, the boats proceed with -considerable rapidity; the traveller, too, can sleep comfortably in his -little cabin, which is, in fact, his house for the time being. - -The canal, after leaving Shanghae, leads in a northerly direction, -inclining sometimes a little to the west; branches leading off in all -directions over the country. Some very large towns and walled cities -were passed on our route, at one of which, named _Cading_, we halted -for the night just under the ramparts. I spread out my bed in my little -cabin, and went to sleep rather early, intending to start by times with -the tide next morning, and get as far as possible during the ensuing -day. But, as my countryman says,-- - - "The best laid schemes of mice and men gang aft agee;" - -and I awoke during the night by the cool air blowing in upon my head -through one of the windows of the boat, which I had shut before I -went to rest. I jumped up immediately and looked out, and through the -darkness I could discern that we were drifting down the canal with -the tide, now coming in contact with some other boat, which had been -fastened up like ourselves for the night, and now rubbing against the -branches of trees which hung over the sides of the canal. I lost no -time in awaking my servant and the boatmen, who rubbed their eyes with -astonishment, and exclaimed that some robber must have boarded us. This -had never struck me before, but when I called for a light, I found that -all my clothes, English and Chinese, were gone. Our visitor, who ever -he had been, after taking possession of all the cabin contained, cut -the rope by which we were fastened, and shoved us off into the centre -of the canal, along which we had drifted a considerable way before I -awoke. Fortunately for me, the few dollars I had with me were in my -Chinese purse beneath my pillow. - -"What shall we do," said my servant when we had made the boat fast -again to some others on the side of the canal, "your clothes are all -gone?" - -"Do," said I, laughing; "I think the best thing we can do is to go to -bed again until daylight." This being agreed to, we were soon all once -more sound asleep. When morning dawned, I sent my servant into the town -of Cading with a few dollars, which procured me another dress, and we -proceeded on our journey. - -The city of Cading is large and fortified, although the walls and -ramparts are in a state of decay. It is evidently a very ancient -place. Here a large quantity of the celebrated carving is done, for -which the Chinese in the north are so well known. After leaving this -town, the canal which was narrow, continued in a northerly direction -for a few miles, and then, all at once, our little boat shot out -of it into a broad and beautiful canal, resembling a lake or broad -river, running nearly east and west, and probably connecting itself -with the Yang-tse-kiang river, somewhere between Woosung and Nanking. -The scenery here is extremely striking; the broad and smooth canal -bears on its waters hundreds of Chinese boats of all sizes, under -sail, and each hurrying to its place of destination; pagodas here -and there are seen rearing their heads above the woods and Budhist -temples, which are scattered over this wide and extensive plain. One -of these temples crowns a solitary little hill named _Quin-san_, which -at certain seasons of the year is visited by crowds of people from -Soo-chow and the neighbouring towns; the whole country, as far as the -eye can reach, is one vast rice-field, and everywhere the pleasing -clatter of the water-wheels falls upon the ear, and hundreds of happy -and contented Chinese peasants are seen engaged in the cultivation of -the soil. After continuing its westerly course for some distance, the -canal divided, and the branch we took soon led us to another town named -_Ta-tsong-tseu_. It is a place of great size, walled and fortified like -Cading and Shanghae, and is probably larger than the latter, although -perhaps not so populous. A great number of large old junks are moored -on the canal round the walls, apparently used as dwelling-houses, -being now unfit for any other service. This town too, like Cading, is -evidently in a decaying state, judging from the dilapidated condition -of the houses and fortifications, but teems with an immense population -of men, women, and particularly children. - -On approaching Soo-chow some hills were seen, bounding the level plain, -which I afterwards found were some few miles west from the town itself. -The whole country here, as well as near Cading, is one vast rice-field. -Many females are employed in driving the water-wheels, generally three -or four to each wheel: these ladies have large feet, or rather their -feet are of the natural size; indeed, if they were cramped in the -usual way it would be impossible for them to work on the water-wheel. -Small feet, however, are general amongst the lower classes who work in -the fields, for of the hundreds whom I observed hoeing the cotton, or -engaged in other agricultural operations, but a small proportion had -feet of the natural size. - -A few miles on the east of Soo-chow there is a large and beautiful -lake, twelve or fifteen miles across, through which the boats from -Sung-Kiang-foo and other places in that direction approach the city. -After passing this lake the canal, which had widened considerably, now -began to contract; bridges here and there were passed, villages and -small towns lined the banks, and everything denoted the approach to a -city of some size and importance. It was a delightful summer's evening -on the 23rd of June, when I approached this far-famed town. The moon -was up, and with a fair light breeze my little boat scudded swiftly, -its masts and sails reflected in the clear water of the canal; the -boats thickened as we went along, the houses became more crowded and -larger, lanterns were moving in great numbers on the bridges and sides -of the canal, and in a few minutes more we were safely moored, among -some hundreds of other boats, under the walls of this celebrated city. -Having taken all the precautions in our power against another nightly -visitor, my servant, the boatmen, and myself, were soon fast asleep. - -With the first dawn of morning I was up, and dressed with very great -care by my Chinese servant, whom I then despatched to find out the -nursery gardens in the city, in order to procure the plants which I -wanted. When he had obtained this information he returned, and we -proceeded together into the city, in order to make my selections. - -When I left the boat, I confess I felt rather nervous as to the trial -I was about to make. Although I had passed very well as a Chinaman in -the country districts, I knew that the inhabitants of large towns, and -particularly those in a town like this, were more difficult to deceive. -My old friends, or I should rather say my enemies, the dogs, who are -as acute as any Chinaman, evidently did not disown me as a countryman, -and this at once gave me confidence. These animals manifest very great -hatred to foreigners, barking at them wherever they see them, and -hanging on their skirts until they are fairly out of sight of the house -or village where their masters reside. - -As I was crossing the bridge, which is built over the moat or canal on -the outside of the city walls, numbers of the Chinese were loitering -on it, leaning over its sides, and looking down upon the boats which -were plying to and fro. I stopped too, and looked down upon the gay and -happy throng, with a feeling of secret triumph when I remembered that -I was now in the most fashionable city of the Celestial Empire, where -no Englishman, as far as I knew, had ever been before. None of the -loiterers on the bridge appeared to pay the slightest attention to me, -by which I concluded that I must be very much like one of themselves. -How surprised they would have been had it been whispered to them that -an Englishman was standing amongst them. - -The city of Soo-chow-foo, in its general features, is much the same -as the other cities in the north, but is evidently the seat of luxury -and wealth, and has none of those signs of dilapidation and decay -which one sees in such towns as Ning-po. A noble canal, as wide as -the river Thames at Richmond, runs parallel with the city walls, and -acts as a moat as well as for commercial purposes. Here, as at Cading -and Ta-tsong-tseu, a large number of invalided junks are moored, and -doubtless make excellent Chinese dwelling-houses, particularly to a -people so fond of living on the water. This same canal is carried -through arches into the city, where it ramifies in all directions, -sometimes narrow and dirty, and at other places expanding into lakes -of considerable beauty; thus enabling the inhabitants to convey their -merchandise to their houses from the most distant parts of the country. -Junks and boats of all sizes are plying on this wide and beautiful -canal, and the whole place has a cheerful and flourishing aspect, -which one does not often see in the other towns in China, if we except -Canton and Shanghae. The walls and ramparts are high, and in excellent -repair, having considerable resemblance to those of Ning-po, but in -much better order. The east wall, along the side of which I went all -the way, is not more than a mile in length, but the north and south -are much longer, thus making the city a parallelogram. That part of -the city near the east gate, by which I entered, is anything but -splendid; the streets are narrow and dirty, and the population seems of -the lowest order, but towards the west the buildings and streets are -much finer, the shops are large, and everything denotes this to be the -rich and aristocratic part of the town. The city gates seem to be well -guarded with Chinese soldiers, and all the streets and lanes inside are -intersected at intervals with gates, which are closed at nine or ten -o'clock at night. The Governor General of the province resides here, -and keeps those under his control in excellent order. - -The number of nursery gardens in this city had been exaggerated by my -Chinese friends at Shanghae, but nevertheless there were several of -considerable extent, out of which I was able to procure some new and -valuable plants. Among these I may notice in passing a white _Glycine_, -a fine new double yellow rose, and a _Gardenia_ with large white -blossoms, like a Camellia. These plants are now in England, and will -soon be met with in every garden in the country. The Soo-chow nurseries -abounded in dwarf trees, many of which were very curious and old, two -properties to which the Chinese attach far greater importance than we -do in England. - -The ladies here are considered by the Chinese to be the most beautiful -in the country, and, judging from the specimens which I had an -opportunity of seeing, they certainly deserve their high character. -Their dresses are of the richest material, made in a style at once -graceful and elegant; and the only faults I could find with them were -their small deformed feet, and the mode they have of painting or -whitening their faces with a kind of powder made for this purpose. But -what seemed faults in my eyes are beauties in those of a Chinaman, and -hence the prevalence of these customs. - -Soo-chow-foo seems to be the great emporium of the central provinces -of China, for which it is peculiarly well fitted by its situation. -The trade of Ning-po, Hang-chow, Shanghae, and many other towns on -the south: Ching-kiang-foo, Nanking, and even Peking itself on the -north, all centres here, and all these places are connected either by -the Grand Canal, or by the hundreds of canals of lesser note, which -ramify over all this part of the empire. Shanghae, from its favourable -position as regards Soo-chow, will doubtless become one day a place of -vast importance, in a commercial point of view, both as regards Europe -and America. - -I remained for several days in this city, and its neighbourhood, when, -having done all that was possible under the circumstances, I set out -on my way back to Shanghae. When I arrived, I was obliged to go on -shore in my Chinese dress, as the English one had been stolen by my -midnight visitor. The disguise, however, was so complete, that I was -not recognised by a single individual, although I walked up the street -where I was well known, and even my friend Mr. Mackenzie, with whom I -was staying, did not know me for the first few minutes after I sat down -in his room. - -In the town of Shanghae, as well as in many other large Chinese -towns, there are a number of public hot water bathing establishments, -which must be of great importance as regards the health and comfort -of the natives. I will describe one which I passed daily during my -residence in Shanghae. There are two outer rooms used for undressing -and dressing; the first, and largest, is for the poorer classes; the -second, for those who consider themselves more respectable, and who -wish to be more private. As you enter the largest of these rooms, a -placard which is hung near the door informs you what the charges are, -and a man stands there to receive the money on entrance. Arranged in -rows down the middle and round the sides of both rooms are a number of -small boxes or lockers, furnished with lock and key, into which the -visitors put their clothes, and where they can make sure of finding -them when they return from the bathing room, which is entered by a -small door at the farther end of the building, and is about 30 feet -long and 20 feet wide; the water occupying the whole space, except a -narrow path round the sides. The water is from 1 foot to 18 inches -deep, and the sides of the bath are lined with marble slabs, from -which the bathers step into the water, and on which they sit and wash -themselves: the furnace is placed on the outside, and the flues are -carried below the centre of the bath. - -In the afternoon anti evening this establishment is crowded with -visitors, and on entering the bath room, the first impression is -almost insupportable; the hot steam or vapour meets you at the door, -filling the eyes and ears, and causing perspiration to run from every -pore of the body; it almost darkens the place, and the Chinamen seen -in this imperfect light, with their brown skins and long tails, -sporting amongst the water, render the scene a most ludicrous one to an -Englishman. - -Those visitors who use the common room pay only six copper cash; the -others pay eighteen, but they have in addition a cup of tea and a pipe -of tobacco from the proprietors. I may mention that one hundred copper -cash amount to about 4-1/2_d_. of our money; so that the first class -enjoy a hot water bath for about one farthing! and the other a bath, a -private room, a cup of tea, and a pipe of tobacco for something less -than one penny! - - -[1] It has proved to be a new species, and has been named Isatis -indigotica. - - - - CHAP. XIV. - -CHINESE COTTON CULTIVATION.--YELLOW COTTON.--DISTRICT -WHERE IT GROWS.--COTTON COUNTRY DESCRIBED.--SOIL.--MANURE, -AND MODE OF APPLICATION.--PRECEDING CROPS.--TIME OF -SOWING.--METHOD.--RAINS.--SUMMER CULTIVATION.--EARLY RAIN -ADVANTAGEOUS.--TIME OF REAPING AND GATHERING.--COTTON -FARMERS AND THEIR FAMILIES.--DRYING AND CLEANING PROCESS -DESCRIBED.--MARKETING.--INDEPENDENCE OF THE SELLER.--CROWDED STREETS -IN SHANGHAE DURING THE COTTON SEASON.--WAREHOUSES AND PACKING.--HOME -CONSUMPTION.--STALKS USED FOR FUEL. - - -The Chinese or Nanking cotton plant is the _Gossypium herbaceum_ -of botanists, and the "_Mie wha_" of the northern Chinese. It is a -branching annual, growing from one to three or four feet in height, -according to the richness of the soil, and flowering from August to -October. The flowers are of a dingy yellow colour, and, like the -Hibiscus or Malva, which belong to the same tribe, remain expanded only -for a few hours, in which time they perform the part allotted to them -by nature, and then shrivel up and soon decay. At this stage the seed -pod begins to swell rapidly, and when ripe, the outer coating bursts -and exposes the pure white cotton in which the seeds lie imbedded. - -The yellow cotton, from which the beautiful Nanking cloth is -manufactured, is called "_Tze mie_ _wha_" by the Chinese, and differs -but slightly in its structure and general appearance from the kind -just noticed. I have often compared them in the cotton fields where -they were growing, and although the yellow variety has a more stunted -habit than the other, it has no characters which constitute a distinct -species. It is merely an accidental variety, and although its seeds -may generally produce the same kind, they doubtless frequently yield -the white variety, and _vice versâ_. Hence, specimens of the yellow -cotton are frequently found growing amongst the white in the immediate -vicinity of Shanghae; and again a few miles northward, in fields near -the city of _Poushan_ on the banks of the Yang-tse-kiang, where the -yellow cotton abounds, I have often gathered specimens of the white -variety. - -The Nanking cotton is chiefly cultivated in the level ground around -Shanghae, where it forms the staple summer production of the country. -This district, which is part of the great plain of the Yang-tze-kiang, -although flat, is yet several feet above the level of the water in -the rivers and canals, and is consequently much better fitted for -cotton cultivation than those flat rice districts in various parts of -the country,--such for example as the plain of Ning-po,--where the -ground is either wet and marshy, or liable at times to be completely -overflowed. Some fields in this district are, of course, low and -marshy, and these are cultivated with rice instead of cotton, and -regularly flooded by the water-wheel during the period of growth. -Although the cotton land is generally flat, so much so, indeed, that no -hills can be seen from the tops of the houses in the city of Shanghae, -it has nevertheless a pleasing and undulating appearance, and taken as -a whole, it is perhaps the most fertile agricultural district in the -world. The soil is a strong rich loam capable of yielding immense crops -year after year, although it receives but a small portion of manure. - -The manure applied to the cotton lands of the Chinese, is doubtless -peculiarly well fitted for this kind of crop. It is obtained from -the canals, ponds, and ditches which intersect the country in every -direction, and consists of mud which has been formed partly by the -decay of long grass, reeds, and succulent water plants, and partly by -the surface soil which has been washed down from the higher ground by -the heavy rains. Every agricultural operation in China seems to be done -with the greatest regularity, at certain stated times, which experience -has proved the best, and in nothing is this more apparent than in -the manuring of the cotton lands. Early in April the agricultural -labourers, all over the country, are seen busily employed in cleaning -these ponds and ditches. The water is first of all partly drawn off, -and then the mud is thrown up on the adjoining land to dry, where it -remains for a few days until all the superfluous water is drained out -of it, and is then conveyed away and spread over the cotton fields. -Previous to this, the land has been prepared for its reception, having -been either ploughed up with the small buffalo plough in common use in -the country, and then broken and pulverised by the three-pronged hoe, -or, in those instances where the farms are small and cannot boast of -a buffalo and plough, it is loosened and broken up entirely by manual -labour. When the mud is first spread over the land, it is, of course, -hard or cloggy, but the first showers soon mix it with the surface -soil, and the whole becomes pulverised, and it is then ready for the -reception of the cotton seed. Road-scrapings and burnt rubbish are -saved up with care, and used for the same purpose and in the same -manner. - -A considerable portion of the cotton lands either lie fallow during -the winter months, or are planted with those crops which are ready for -gathering prior to the sowing of the cotton seed. Frequently, however, -two crops are found growing in the field at the same time. Wheat, for -example, which is a winter crop, is reaped in the Shanghae district -generally about the end of May, while the proper time for putting in -the cotton seed is the beginning of that month or the end of April. In -order, therefore, to have cotton on the wheat lands, the Chinese sow -its seeds at the usual time amongst the wheat, and when the latter is -reaped, the former is several inches above ground, and ready to grow -with vigour when it is more fully exposed to the influence of sun and -air. The Shanghae season--that is, from the late spring frosts to those -in autumn--is barely long enough for the production and ripening of -the cotton, as it is easily injured by frost, and the Chinese farmer -is thus obliged, in order to gain time and obtain two crops from his -ground in one year, to sow its seeds before the winter crop is ready to -be removed from the ground. When it is possible to have the first crop -entirely removed before the cotton is sown it is much preferred, as the -land can then be well worked and properly manured, neither of which can -otherwise be done. The method of sowing one crop before the preceding -one is ripe and removed from the land is very common in this part of -the country; and even in autumn, before the cotton stalks are taken out -of the ground, other seeds are frequently seen germinating and ready to -take the place of the more tender crop. - -In the end of April and beginning of May--the land having been prepared -in the manner just described--the cotton seeds are carried in baskets -to the fields, and the sowing commences. They are generally sown -broad-cast, that is, scattered regularly over the surface of the -ground, and then the labourers go over the whole surface with their -feet and tread them carefully in. This not only embeds the seeds, but -also acts like a roller to break and pulverise the soil. Germination -soon commences, the seeds rooting first in the manure which had been -scattered over the surface of the land. In some cases the seed, instead -of being sown broadcast, is sown in drills or patches, but this mode -is less common than the other. The rains, which always fall copiously -at the change of the monsoon which takes place at this season of the -year, warm and moisten the earth, and the seeds swell, and vegetation -progresses with wonderful rapidity. Many of the operations in Chinese -agriculture are regulated by the change of the monsoon. The farmer -knows from experience, that, when the winds, which have been blowing -from the north and east for the last seven months, change to the south -and west, the atmosphere will be highly charged with electric fluid, -and the clouds will daily rain and refresh his crops. - -The cotton fields are carefully tended during the summer months. The -plants are thinned where they have been sown too thickly, the earth -is loosened amongst the roots, and the ground hoed and kept free -from weeds. If the season is favourable, immense crops are obtained -owing to the fertility of the soil, but if the weather happens to be -unusually dry from June to August, the crop receives a check which it -never entirely recovers, even although the ground, after that period, -should be moistened by frequent showers. 1845 was a season of this -kind, and the crop was a very deficient one compared with that of the -previous year. The spring was highly favourable, and the plants looked -well up to the month of June, when the dry weather set in, and gave -them a check which they never recovered. Abundance of rain fell later -in the season but it was then too late, and only caused the plants to -grow tall and run to leaf, without producing those secretions which -ultimately go to the formation of flowers and seed. - -The cotton plant produces its flowers in succession from August to the -end of October, but sometimes, when the autumn is mild, blooms are -produced even up to November, when the cold nights generally nip the -buds, and prevent them from forming seed. In the autumn of 1844 this -happened on the night of the 28th of October, when the thermometer -sunk to the freezing point, and then ice was found on the sides of the -canals and ponds. - -As the pods are bursting every day, it is necessary to have them -gathered with great regularity, otherwise they fall upon the ground and -the cotton gets dirty, which of course reduces its value in the market. -Little bands of the Chinese are now seen in the afternoon in every -field, gathering the ripe cotton and carrying it home to the houses of -the farmers. As the farms are generally small, they are worked almost -entirely by the farmer and his family, consisting sometimes of three -or even four generations, including the old grey-haired grand-father -or great-grandfather, who has seen the crops of four-score years -gathered into his barns. Every member of these family groups has a -certain degree of interest in his employment; the harvest is their -own, and the more productive it is, the greater number of comforts -they will be able to afford. Of course there are many cotton farms of -larger size, where labourers are employed in addition to the farmer's -family, but by far the greater number are small and worked in the way -I have just described. It is no unusual sight to see the family goat -too, doing their share of the work. Several of these animals are kept -on almost every farm, where they are, of course, great favourites with -the children, and often follow them to the cotton fields. Although the -children with their little hands can gather the cotton as well as their -elders, they are not strong enough to carry it about with them, and it -is amusing to see their favourites the goats, with bags slung across -their backs, receiving the deposits of cotton, and bearing it home to -the houses, evidently aware that they too are working for the general -good. - -However fine the crop may be, the Chinese are never sure of it until -it is actually gathered in. Much depends upon a dry autumn, for, if -the weather is wet after the pods begin to burst, they drop amongst -the muddy soil, and are consequently much injured, if not completely -destroyed. When the cotton reaches the farm-yard, it is daily spread -out on hurdles raised about four feet from the ground, and fully -exposed to the sun. As the object is to get rid of all the moisture, -it is of course only put out in fine weather, and is always taken into -the house or barn in the evening. When perfectly dry, the process of -separating it from the seeds commences. This is done by the well-known -wheel with two rollers, which, when turned round, draws or sucks -in the cotton, and rejects the seeds. It is a simple and beautiful -contrivance, and answers well the end for which it is designed. The -cotton is now sent to market, and a portion of the seeds are reserved -for the next year's crop. - -Early in the fine autumnal mornings, the roads leading into Shanghae -are crowded with bands of coolies from the cotton farms, each with his -bamboo across his shoulders and a large sack of cotton swung from each -end. With these they hurry into the town, for the purpose of disposing -of them to the merchants, who have numerous warehouses from which they -send the cotton to the other provinces of the empire. These coolies -or small farmers--for many of them bring their own produce to market -themselves--are very independent in their dealings. Having reached the -first warehouse, the cotton is exposed to the view of the merchant, who -is asked what price he intends to give for that particular quality; -and should the sum offered be below the owner's expectations, he -immediately shoulders his load and walks away to another merchant. -At this season it is almost impossible to get along the streets near -the sides of the river where the cotton warehouses are, owing to the -large quantities of this commodity which are daily brought in from -the country. It is bought up by the large cotton merchants, who empty -it out in their warehouses, and then repack it in a neat and compact -manner before it is conveyed on board the junks. - -Before the cotton is converted into thread for the purpose of weaving, -it is cleaned and freed from knots by the well-known process common in -our possessions in India. This is done by an elastic bow, the string -of which being passed under a portion of the cotton placed on a table, -throws it in the air by the vibration which is kept up by the workman, -and separates the fibre without at all breaking or injuring it. At the -same time the wind caused by the sudden vibrations carries off the -dust and other impurities. After this process the Chinese cotton is -particularly pure and soft, and is considered by good judges not to be -surpassed by any in the world. It is much superior to that imported to -China from Hindostan, and always commands a higher price in the Chinese -market. - -Every small farmer or cottager reserves a portion of the produce of his -fields for the wants of his own family. This the female members clean, -spin, and weave at home. In every cottage throughout this district -the traveller meets with the spinning-wheel and the small hand-loom, -which used to be common in our own country in days of yore, but which -have now given way to machinery. These looms are plied by the wives -and daughters, who are sometimes assisted by the old men or young boys -who are unfit for the labours of the field. Where the families are -numerous and industrious, a much greater quantity of cloth is woven -than is required for their own wants, and in this case the surplus is -taken to Shanghae and the adjacent towns for sale. A sort of market is -held every morning at one of the gates of the city, where these people -assemble and dispose of their little bundles of cotton cloth. Money is -in this manner realised for the purchase of tea and other necessaries -which are not produced by the farms in this particular district. - -When the last crops are gathered from the cotton fields, the stalks -are carried home for fuel. Thus every part of the crop is turned to -account: the cotton itself clothes them, and affords them the means -of supplying themselves with all the necessaries of life; the stalks -boil their frugal meals; and the ashes even--the remains of all--are -strewed over their fields for the purposes of manure. But even before -this takes place, the system I have already noticed--of sowing and -planting fresh crops before the removal of those which occupy the -land--is already in progress. Clover, beans, and other vegetables are -frequently above ground in the cotton fields before the stalks of -the latter are removed. Thus, the Chinese in the northern provinces -lengthen by every means in their power the period of growth; and gain -as much as they possibly can from the fertility of their land. The -reader must bear in mind, however, that the soil of this district is a -rich deep loam, which is capable of yielding many crops in succession -without the aid of a particle of manure. Nature has showered her -bounties on the inhabitants of this part of the Chinese empire with no -sparing hand; the soil is not only the most fertile in China, but the -climate is capable of rearing and bringing to perfection many of the -productions of the tropics, as well as the whole of those found in all -the temperate regions of the globe. - - - - CHAP. XV. - -CLIMATE OF CHINA.--SUMMER AND WINTER.--TEMPERATURE OF HONG-KONG--OF -SHANGHAE.--MONSOONS.--TYPHOONS.--SIGNS OF THEIR APPROACH.--DESCRIPTION -OF A TYPHOON WITNESSED BY THE AUTHOR.--EFFECT PRODUCED UPON -VEGETATION.--RAINS.--WET AND DRY SEASONS.--METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. - - -In order to understand Chinese agriculture, a knowledge of the climate -of the country is of course necessary. The dominions of the Emperor of -China stretch over twenty-three degrees of latitude--from 18° to 41° -north, and from the 98° to the 123° of east longitude; thus including -both tropical and temperate regions in its vast extent. Being placed -on the east side and forming part of the large continent of Asia, it -is liable to extremes of temperature--to excessive heat in summer, -and extreme cold in winter--which are unknown in many other parts -of the world within the same parallels of latitude. One of our best -writers upon China[1] makes the following very sensible remarks on -this subject:--"Although Peking is nearly a degree to the south of -Naples--the latitude of the former place being 30° 54', of the latter -40° 50'--the mean temperature of Peking is only 54° of Fahrenheit, -while that of Naples is 63°. But the thermometer at the Chinese capital -sinks much lower during the winter than at Naples, so in summer does -it rise somewhat higher; the rivers are said to be frozen for three -or four months together, from December to March; while during the -last embassy in September, 1816, we experienced a heat of between 90° -and 100° in the shade. Now it is well known that Naples, and other -countries in the extreme south of Europe, are strangers to such a -degree of long-continued cold, and not often visited by such heats. -"Europe," observes Humboldt, "may be considered altogether as the -western part of a great continent, and therefore subject to all the -influence which causes the western sides of continents to be warmer -than the eastern; and at the same time more temperate, or less subject -to _excesses_ of both heat and cold, but principally the latter." - -From my own tables, kept by Newman's best registering thermometers, -I find that at Hong-kong, in the months of July and August--the two -hottest months in the year--the mercury frequently stood as high as -90°, and one day at 94° Fahr. in the shade. The minimum was generally -about ten degrees lower than the maximum. In the winter, from December -to March, the thermometer frequently sinks nearly down to the freezing -point, and sometimes, although rarely, snow has fallen at Canton and on -the adjacent hills. The influence of the sea, however, in this part of -the empire, has a tendency to check the extremes of both heat and cold; -but these are much greater in the northern interior. The northerly -winds in the winter and spring months are severely cold in the south of -China; indeed, I have suffered more from cold at Hong-kong and Macao in -the month of February, than I have ever done in England. - -At Shanghae, in the province of Keangsoo, in latitude 31° 20' north, -the extremes of heat and cold are much greater than what we experienced -in the southern provinces. Through the kindness of Dr. Lockhart, who -kept up my meteorological tables during my absence in different parts -of the country, I have obtained a very complete set of observations -for nearly two years. From these it appears that in July and August -the heat is the greatest; the thermometer in the shade sometimes -standing for several days at 100° of Fahrenheit. The heat during -these days was almost insupportable to Europeans, who, when I was in -Shanghae, were obliged to live in Chinese houses, which, from their -construction, were ill calculated to exclude the heat. In the end of -October the thermometer sometimes sinks as low as the freezing point. -In the evening of the 28th of that month, in 1844, the remains of the -cotton and other tropical plants which are cultivated in the fields -during the summer, were destroyed by frost. December, January, and -February are the coldest months in the year, the cold then being quite -as severe as it is with us in the south of England. In the winter of -1844-45 the thermometer sunk as low as 26° Fahrenheit. On the night -of the 18th of December, and again on January, the 4th, the index -was left at 24°. But that winter, according to Chinese accounts, was -peculiarly mild, so much so, that the usual supply of ice could not be -procured. In ordinary years the ponds and canals are frequently frozen -several inches in thickness, and afford a plentiful supply of ice. I -have, therefore, little doubt that in most years the thermometer may be -found at least twenty degrees below the freezing point, or at 12° of -Fahrenheit, and perhaps even lower. Snow frequently falls, but the sun -is too powerful to allow it to lie long on the ground. - -If we except the extremes of heat and cold just noticed, the climate of -Shanghae may be pronounced as fine as any in the world. Even the cold -in winter is highly advantageous to the natives, and still more so to -Europeans and Americans, as it strengthens their constitutions, and -enables them to withstand the effects of the excessive heat. The months -of April, May, and June are delightful, and although the sun is hot in -the middle of the day, in the afternoon the air is soft and agreeable, -and the evenings cool and pleasant. The autumnal months are generally -of the same description; the wind then is cool and bracing, and the sky -is much clearer than in England. The sun, for days, and sometimes for -weeks together, rises in the morning, runs his course, and sets again -in a clear and cloudless sky. - -The prevailing winds blow from the south-west from the end of April to -the middle of September; during the remaining portion of the year they -are northerly and easterly: thus forming what are called the south-west -and north-east monsoons. These monsoons blow with great regularity in -the south of China, but are more variable towards the north. In the -latitude of Chusan or Shanghae, although the monsoons prevail, the -wind, not unfrequently, blows from other quarters. In the end of the -summer season, that is, from July to October, the country is frequently -visited by those dreadful gales called by foreigners typhoons. The -name is a corruption of the Chinese word _Ta-fung_ or "great wind." -These storms commit the most fearful ravages both by land and sea. The -barometer gives warning some hours before the gale commences, and, -therefore, foreign ships can always send down their masts and yards, -and, if possible, remove to a safe anchorage. Where that is not to be -had, they have the dreadful alternative of standing out to sea. The -Chinese, without the aid of the barometer, can always tell when the -_Ta-fung_ is coming on by the following signs. The wind, which blows -from the south-west in the typhoon season, changes and blows from -the north or north-cast, becoming gusty and gradually increasing in -strength, the sky lowers and looks wild, the sea rolls in upon the -bench with a dead heavy swell, and every thing portends a coming storm. -When these signs appear, the fleets of fishing-boats on the coast take -their nets in, crowd all sail, and make for the shore as fast as they -can, where the boats are hauled up on dry land, or into some creek -which is sheltered from the force of the winds and waves. The coasting -junks, which are ill fitted for bad weather, lose no time in getting -into some sheltered port where they can ride out the storm in safety. -And, luckily, as a safeguard from the fury of these winds, nature has -provided a great number of excellent well-sheltered harbours on the -coast of China, all of which are well known to the pilots who are -employed on board the junks. - -During my residence in China, I witnessed two of these terrific -gales--once at sea, and once on shore. Luckily, in the first instance, -we were able to run into a deep bay, and with three anchors down rode -out the gale in perfect safety. The other occurred on the 21st and 22d -of August, 1844, when I was at Ningpo. I observed the Chinese running -about in great consternation, and calling to each other that the "great -wind" was coming, and to make preparations for it. Mats and rattan -work, which had been placed over the doors and windows to afford shade -from the sun, were hastily removed, and many of the houses, which were -known to be in a weak state, were, in a rapid way, propped up and -strengthened. Nor were the husbandmen less busy in the fields. The -heads of the tall millet, being nearly ripe, were quicky cut, and the -long stalks left to be reaped at another time. Millet is so heavy when -nearly ripe, that had it been left exposed to the wind it must have -been dashed to pieces, and the crop entirely lost. Crops on the sides -of the rivers and canals were removed where it was possible to do so; -otherwise, they would have been blown into the water, and carried away -far beyond the reach of their owners. All the fruit which was nearly -ripe was hastily gathered from the trees, unnecessary branches were cut -away, and others tied up and supported. - -The gale gradually increased in force until daylight on the morning of -the 22d, when it seemed to be at its height. In Mr. Mackenzie's house, -where I was staying at the time, we passed a fearful night. The wind -howled and whistled round the roof, every blast seemingly more fierce -than that which preceded it, until I really thought we should have the -building down upon us and be buried in the ruins. At daylight the rooms -presented a dismal appearance; all the floors, chairs, and tables were -covered with dust and pieces of broken tiles and mortar which had been -shaken out of the roof. As the storm still raged with unabated fury, -Mr. Mackenzie and myself, glad to escape from the wreck by which we -were surrounded, went out to see what effect the gale was producing on -the other places in the vicinity. The wind was so powerful, that it -was next to impossible to keep our feet; in fact, we were frequently -blown off the path, and were obliged to scramble back to it again -on our bands and knees. The river, which is generally beautiful and -smooth, had now risen and completely overflowed its banks, having -been forced back by the strength of the wind, and was as rough as the -sea itself. The whole country was one vast sheet of troubled water, -for the branches of the river, and the numerous canals by which it is -intersected, had all overflowed their banks, and had spread in the low -paddy fields. Most of the small boats were safe, as they were either in -sheltered creeks, or drawn up beyond the reach of the water, but many -of the large wood-junks which frequent this port were not so fortunate. -These had been moored off the city, having, as usual, a large portion -of their cargo lashed to their sides. In many instances, the combined -force of the winds and waves snapped the lashings, strong as they were, -and the spars of wood floated from their sides, and were either carried -away by the force of the stream, or thrown on shore. Hundreds of the -Chinese were now ready to seize the wood as it floated to land, and -with a total disregard to the "rights of property" conveyed it at once -to their own houses. No Mandarin or other government officer interfered -to prevent this, and the Chinese servants of the English Consul and -other foreign residents actually brought a considerable quantity to -the houses of their masters, and seemed surprised when reproved for -their dishonesty. The English of course honourably returned the spoil -to its owners, much to the surprise of the Chinese. On the opposite -side of the river, we observed great numbers engaged in the same -lawless occupation. The city walls, here, run parallel with the river, -and these rascals were coolly hoisting the wood over the wails and -ramparts, assisted by their friends inside the city; nor was this -attempted to be checked. - -At about nine o'clock in the morning, the wind, which commenced from -the north, had veered round to the east and south, but still raged with -fearful power. On retracing our steps, which we had some difficulty -in doing, owing to the flooded state of the country, and the force of -the wind, we encountered a family group in the fields surrounding a -coffin, which the wind seemed inclined to carry off in spite of all -their efforts to fasten it to the ground. It is customary in this part -of the country to place the remains of the dead upon the surface of -the ground, sometimes supporting the coffins on short stakes, to raise -them a few feet from the earth. In this instance the poor people were -actually fighting with the winds, but were at last able to secure the -remains of their relative, and allow him to sleep the long sleep of -death in peace. At this time the barometer stood at 28° 30', but the -wind was still blowing a perfect gale until about mid-day, when it -gradually became less violent. In the evening, although the sky still -looked wild, it was evident the gale had passed away, and the wind was -then blowing from the south-west. The river soon returned to its former -limits, boats began to sail up and down, and business, which had been -entirely suspended, went on again as usual. Altogether, the typhoon -lasted nearly twenty-four hours. - -The following morning was calm and beautiful, but the scene was one of -ruin and devastation. The streets were strewed with broken tiles and -mortar; many of the houses were completely unroofed, walls were blown -down, and every thing evinced the violence of the storm. In the fields -the change was still more striking; but two days before the trees and -hedges were green, the gardens were gay with flowers, and every thing -bore the happy smiling aspect of summer; now vegetation had changed -from green to withered sickly brown, flowers had faded, trees were torn -lip by the roots and broken and shattered, and many of the crops were -completely ruined. - -The accounts which reached us from sea after this typhoon proved that -the loss of life had been very great. For many days after the gale had -ceased, our vessels on the coast frequently met with large portions -of wreck floating about, the remains of Chinese junks, which told a -fearful tale. An English vessel on her way to Chusan was obliged to cut -away her masts, and was towed into the harbour a day or two afterwards -by one of the government steamers. Mr. Shaw, one of her passengers, -informed me that during the typhoon they had a perfect calm for some -time, and that then the wind veered round to a different quarter, and -blew with increased violence. This is not unfrequently the case, and -during these short lulls the vessels roll and labour in a dreadful -manner, owing to the heavy swell of the sea, as they are then entirely -at its mercy, and have nothing to steady them. - -In the preceding year, this part of the country was twice visited -by typhoons, viz., on the 1st of September and 1st of October. In -the island of Chusan, where they were particularly violent, the most -disastrous effects were produced upon the crops. The little streams in -the island were swollen into large rivers, and carried away every thing -before them. The crops of entire fields, chiefly paddy, were in some -instances swept away, and in others sanded completely up, and rendered -useless. The patched-up houses of our officers who held the island -at the time suffered severely. During the typhoon of 1844, a house -built on the beach by one of the officers was actually lifting up, and -would doubtless have been carried away by the force of the wind, but -fortunately Brigadier Campbell, who was passing at the time, gave the -alarm, and ordered out a number of men from the barracks, who held it -down until it was rendered more secure. - -The wet and dry seasons in the southern and tropical parts of China are -more decided in their character than they are in the northern portions -of the Empire. At Hong-kong and in the provinces of the south, the -winter season, that is, from October to March, is generally dry, more -particularly in November, December, and January. The most wet months in -the year are those near the change of the monsoons, in May and June, -and again in September, when the rains fall in torrents, probably owing -to the stagnation produced in the atmosphere by the change in the -direction of the winds. - -The author before quoted explains this on the following principles. He -says:--"The north-east monsoon, which commences about September, blows -strongest during the above period, and begins to yield to the opposite -monsoon in March. About that time the southerly winds come charged with -the moisture which they have acquired in their passage over the sea -through warm latitudes; and this moisture is suddenly condensed into -thick fogs as it comes in contact with the land of China, which has -been cooled down to a low temperature by the long-continued northerly -winds. The latent heat given out, by the rapid distillation of this -steam into fluid, produces the sudden advance of temperature which -takes place about March; and its effect is immediately perceptible in -the stimulus given to vegetation of all kinds, by this union of warmth -with moisture. With the progressive increase of heat and evaporation -those rains commence, which tend so greatly to mitigate the effects of -the sun's rays in tropical climates. In the month of May the fall of -rain has been known to exceed twenty inches, being more than a fourth -of all the year, and this keeps down the temperature to the moderate -average marked for that month." - -The following table made from observations kept by the late Mr. Beale -at Macao for a number of years, shows the amount of the average monthly -fall of rain in inches:-- - - - +----------------------------------------------+-----------+---------+ - | | Thermometer. | Mean | Average | - | |----------------------------------| Height | Fall of | - | | Mean | Mean | Mean | Range. | of | Rain in | - | | Max. | Min. | Temp. | From To | Barometer | Inches. | - +-----------+------+------+-------+------------+-----------+---------+ - | January | 57 | 45 | 51 | 65 29 | 30.23 | 0.675 | - | February | 58 | 45 | 51.5 | 68 33 | 30.12 | 1.700 | - | March | 71 | 60 | 65.5 | 79 45 | 30.17 | 2.150 | - | April | 76 | 69 | 72.5 | 84 59 | 30.04 | 5.675 | - | May | 78 | 73 | 75.5 | 86 69 | 29.89 | 11.850 | - | June | 84 | 79 | 81.5 | 89 74 | 29.87 | 11.100 | - | July | 88 | 84 | 86 | 94 81 | 29.84 | 7.750 | - | August | 86 | 83 | 84.5 | 90 79 | 29.86 | 9.900 | - | September | 84 | 79 | 81.5 | 88 75 | 29.90 | 10.925 | - | October | 76 | 70 | 73 | 85 60 | 30.04 | 5.500 | - | November | 68 | 61 | 64.5 | 79 48 | 30.14 | 2.425 | - | December | 63 | 52 | 57.5 | 69 40 | 30.25 | 0.975 | - +-----------+------+------+-------+------------+-----------+---------+ - | Annual | | | | | | | - | Means | 74.1 | 66.7 | 70.4 | 81.3 57.6 | 30.03 | | - +-----------+------+------+-------+------------+-----------+---------+ - - Total rain, 70.625 - - -In the north the rains also fall copiously at the change of the -monsoons, more particularly in spring, at which time they are of -the greatest utility to the crops, which are sown or planted about -that time. Those parts of China, however, which are included in the -temperate zone, cannot properly be said to have a wet and dry season in -the same sense as these terms are generally understood in the tropics. -The winter months which are dry at Hong-kong are far from having the -same character, at Shanghae, for example, where heavy and continued -falls of rain and snow are of frequent occurrence. In fact, the climate -of Northern China has a greater resemblance to that of the south of -England or France, than it has to that of the southern parts of the -Chinese empire; and although hotter, used always to remind me of the -beautiful summers we have in England once in every ten and twelve -years. The sky is for days and weeks together without a cloud, and in -the evening a heavy dew falls and refreshes vegetation. - -These remarks will assist the reader to understand more fully the -theory and practice of Chinese agriculture, which form the subject of -the following chapter. - - -[1] Davis's "Chinese." - - - - CHAP. XVI. - -CHINESE AGRICULTURE--EXAGGERATED STATEMENTS REGARDING ITS -ADVANCEMENT.--SOIL OF THE HILLS.--TEA LAND.--SOIL OF THE -PLAINS.--SUMMER CROPS.--RICE AND ITS CULTIVATION.--CHINESE PLOUGH AND -HARROW.--NUMBER OF CROPS PRODUCED.--METHOD OF OBTAINING TWO CROPS OF -RICE IN SUMMER IN THE PROVINCE OF CHEKIANG.--RICE HARVEST.--TERRACE -CULTIVATION DESCRIBED.--THE TEIN-CHING PLANT, FROM WHICH THE -NORTHERN INDIGO IS OBTAINED.--SUMMER HILL CROPS.--CULTIVATION OF -SWEET POTATOES.--EARTH NUTS.--WINTER CROPS.--CELEBRATED SHAN-TUNG -CABBAGE.--OIL PLANT.--WHEAT, BARLEY, ETC.--RIPENING OF WINTER -CROPS.--MANURES--TWO PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR THIS TURPOSE--THEIR -CULTIVATION AND MODE OF APPLICATION.--A MANURE FOR MIXING WITH -SEEDS.--ITS UTILITY.--OTHER MANURES IN COMMON USE.--MANURE -TANKS.--NIGHT SOIL AND URINE--MODE OF APPLICATION.--SUCCESSION AND -ROTATION OF CROPS. - - -_The profession of agriculture in China_ has been highly honoured and -encouraged by the government of the country, from the earliest times -down to the present day. The husbandman ranks higher here than he does -in any other country in the world, and the emperor himself marks his -sense of the importance of agriculture, by engaging in its operations -at the commencement of every season. In his character of "Son of -Heaven," or mediator between the gods and his subjects, he devotes -three days to solemn fasting and prayer, after which he proceeds to a -field, and with his own hands holds the plough, and throws a portion -of the rice seed into the ground, thus showing the importance which -government attaches to industry in the cultivation of the earth, that -there may be plenty on the land to supply the wants of the teeming -population. - -The progress and advancement of the Chinese in agriculture as an art -has been, however, greatly exaggerated by many who have adverted -to this subject in their writings. The Chinese government has been -always so jealous of foreigners entering the country, that those who -were probably able to form a correct opinion on the subject were -prevented from doing so, and were led away by the fertility of their -imaginations; while, on the other hand, the Roman Catholic missionaries -who travelled and resided in the interior, were evidently ignorant -of the art itself, as well as of the progress it had made in other -countries. But it must also be borne in mind, that whilst agriculture -has been advancing rapidly towards perfection amongst the nations of -the western world, the Chinese in this, as with most other things, have -remained stationary, and hence there must be a much greater disparity -between us and them now than there was when the early writers upon -China published their works. To these writers, and more particularly -to those who kept on faithfully copying their works, we must attribute -the erroneous opinions which have been generally held by us in every -thing relating to the agriculture of the Chinese. I have no doubt -that, as a nation, they surpass the natives of India and other -half-civilised states in this art, as they do in most other peaceful -accomplishments; but it is ridiculous, now at least, to compare them -for a moment with our intelligent farmers in England or Scotland. As -well might we compare their coasting junks with the navy of England, -or their merchants with ours, whose ships are met with on every sea, -and whose commercial operations extend to every quarter of the world. -In order, however, that the reader may form an opinion for himself, I -will describe in detail what passed under my own eye connected with -this subject, during my travels of nearly three years in the country. -In that space of time I had an opportunity of seeing repeatedly the -various methods of cultivation and their results, both in the north and -in the south; all of which were carefully noted in my journal at the -time. - -I will begin with the southern provinces. These are, of course, -tropical, and differ from those in the north in many respects, both -with regard to soil and the nature of the plants cultivated. - -_The soil of the mountains_ in the south of China is of the poorest -description. Rocks of granite are seen every where protruding -themselves above the scanty vegetation, whilst the soil itself is -composed of dry burnt clay mixed with particles of granite in a -decaying or disintegrated state. This soil naturally so poor, is -kept so by the practice of periodically cutting and carrying off the -long grass and stunted bushes for fire-wood. Sometimes the natives -set fire to this upon the mountains, for the purpose of affording a -scanty manure, but nevertheless the soil is miserably sterile. Almost -all the hilly portions of the south of China are in a state of nature -"_stern and wild_" where the hand of man never attempts agricultural -operations, and where it is almost impossible he ever can. Here and -there, near the base of the hills, the far-famed terrace cultivation -may be seen, where the natives grow small patches of rice and other -vegetables, such as sweet potatoes and earth-nuts, but the portion of -land in this part of the country used for such purposes, bears but an -extremely small proportion to the vast tracts in a wild state. - -At Amoy and over all that part of the province of Fokien the mountains -are even more barren than those of Quantung. On some of the hills on -the island of Amoy, the traveller may wander for miles and scarcely -see even a weed. On every side there is nothing but masses of dark -crumbling granite, and red burnt-looking clay. This, however, seems the -northern boundary of the most barren part of China. When we reach the -river Min near Foo-chow-foo, there is a great change visible in the -vegetation of the hills, caused, of course, by the richer nature of -the soil. This remark applies to the northern portion of Fokien and to -the whole of the province of Chekiang. I have ascended hills near the -mouth of the Min at least 3000 feet above the level of the sea, which -were under cultivation to their summit. The soil here was composed of -a gravelly loam; and though far from rich, it contained more vegetable -matter or humus, and was also much deeper. This addition of vegetable -matter rendered the soil sufficiently fertile to repay the Chinese -fanner for the labour expended in bringing the crops to maturity. Some -of the hills are of course much more productive than others. The tea -districts, for example, both in the province of Fokien and Chekiang, -are not only more fertile, but are very different from what they are -generally supposed to be. One of the most accredited accounts of China -gives the following analysis of the soil of these districts:--"The tea -soil of China consists almost entirely of siliceous sand in a minute -state of division--84 per cent. of sand, a quantity of carbonate of -iron and alumina, _and only_ 1 _per cent. of vegetable matter_." -Where or how this analysis could be obtained, I have no means of -knowing--most probably from the black tea districts near Canton; but it -is certainly very far from being a correct one if meant to apply to the -rich soil of the great tea districts. - -But even here, and over all the most fertile mountain districts of -Central China, it would be ridiculous to assert, as some have done, -that the whole or even the greater part is under cultivation. On the -contrary by far the greater part lies in a state of nature and has -never been disturbed by the hand of man. I am anxious to state this -fact in express terms, in order to set those right who have been led -to believe that every inch of land in the empire, however bleak and -barren, is under cultivation, having given way to Chinese industry and -skill! I myself, before I visited China, was under the same impression; -but the first glance at the rushed mountainous shores soon convinced me -of my error. Unfortunately, our opinions of a distant unknown country -are apt to go to extremes, either fancying it entirely barren, or else -a paradise of fertility. - -The _soil of the valleys_ or plains varies quite as much in different -provinces as it does in the hills. The level of these valleys or plains -is generally very low; in many instances below that of the rivers and -canals. In the south the soil consists of a strong stiff clay mixed -with a small portion of sand, but containing scarcely any vegetable -matter or humus. This is its composition about Canton and Macao, and -in fact over all the provinces of the south, unless perhaps in the -vicinity of large towns, where its natural character has been altered -to a certain extent by the influence of manure. Where the hills lose -their barren character, four or five hundred miles to the northward -from Hong-kong, a visible change takes place also in the soil of the -valleys and plains. In the district of the Min, for example, instead of -being almost entirely composed of strong stiff clay it is mixed with a -considerable portion of vegetable matter, and is an excellent strong -loam, not unlike that which we find in some of our best wheat lands in -England and Scotland, and capable of producing excellent crops. As a -general rule it may be observed, that the lower the valleys are, the -more the soil approaches in its nature to the stiff clay of the south, -and _vice versâ_. For instance, the Shanghae district is several feet -higher above the level of the rivers and canals than that of Ning-po, -and the soil of the latter consists more of a stiff clay and has less -vegetable matter in its composition, and is far from being so fertile -as the cotton district of Shanghae. - -Rice being the chief article of food is, of course, the staple -production of the country, more particularly in the south, where two -crops of it can easily be raised in the hot months, besides another -crop of some more hardy vegetables in winter. - -The ground is prepared in spring for the first crop of rice, as soon as -the winter green crops are removed from the fields. The plough, which -is commonly drawn by a buffalo or bullock, is a rude implement; but -probably answers the purpose much better than ours would, which has -been found to be too heavy and unmanageable for the Chinese.[1] As the -land is always flooded with water before it is ploughed, this operation -may be described as the turning up a layer of mud and water, six or -eight inches deep, which lies on a solid floor of hard stiff clay. The -plough never goes deeper than this mud and water, and consequently the -ploughman and his bullock in wading through the field find a solid -footing at this depth below the surface. The water buffalo generally -employed in the south, is well adapted for this work, as he delights -to wallow amongst the mud, and is often found swimming and amusing -himself in the canals on the sides of the rice fields. But it seems a -most disagreeable and unhealthy operation for the poor labourer, who -nevertheless goes along cheerful and happy. After the plough comes the -harrow; this is chiefly used to break and pulverise the surface of the -soil or to bury the manure. Hence it has not long perpendicular teeth -like ours; but the labourer stands upon the top of it, and presses it -down upon the muddy soil while it is drawn along. The object of both -plough and harrow is not only to loosen the earth, but to mix up the -whole until it forms a puddle and its surface becomes smooth and soft. -In this condition it is ready to receive the young rice plants. - -Previously to the preparation of the fields the rice seed is sown -thickly in small patches of highly manured ground, and the young plants -in these seed-beds are ready for transplanting when the fields are in -a fit state to receive them. Sometimes the Chinese steep the seeds -in liquid manure before they sow them; but although this practice is -common in the south, it is not general throughout the empire. - -The seedling plants are carefully dug up from the bed and removed to -the fields. These fields are now smooth and overflowed with water to -the depth of three inches. The plants are put in in patches, each -containing about a dozen plants, and in rows from ten to twelve inches -apart each way. The operation of planting is performed with astonishing -rapidity. A labourer takes a quantity of plants under his left arm, and -drops them in bundles over the land about to be planted, as he knows, -almost to a plant, what number will be required. These little bundles -are then taken up, and the proper number of plants selected and plunged -by the hand into the muddy soil. The water, when the hand is drawn up, -immediately rushes into the hole, and carries with it a portion of soil -to cover the roots, and the seedlings are thus planted and covered in -without further trouble. - -In the south the first crop is fit to cut by the end of June or the -beginning of July. Before it is quite ripe, another crop of seedlings -is raised on the beds or corners of the fields, and is ready for -transplanting as soon as the ground has been ploughed up and prepared -for their reception. This second crop is ready for cutting in November. - -In the latitude of Ning-po, 30° north, the summers are too short to -have the land cropped in the same way in which it is done in the south. -The farmers here manage to have two crops of paddy in the summer -by planting the second crop two or three weeks after the first, in -alternate rows. The first planting takes place about the middle of -May, and the crop is reaped in the beginning of August, at which time -the alternate rows are only about a foot in height, and are still -quite green. After the early crop is removed, the ground is stirred up -and manured, and the second crop having now plenty of light and air, -advances rapidly to maturity, and is ready for the reaping-hook about -the middle of November. - -About one hundred miles further north, in the Shanghae district, the -summers are too short to enable the husbandman to obtain a second crop -of rice, even upon the Ning-po plain, and he is therefore obliged to -content himself with one. This is sown at the end of May, and reaped at -the beginning of October. - -A large quantity of rain always falls at the change of the north-east -monsoon in May. This is of the utmost importance to the farmer, not -only as regards his rice crops, but also as to many other operations -at this season of the year. We are accustomed to hear a great deal -of the machine-like regularity which pervades all the operations of -the Chinese; but a little investigation of the circumstances in which -they are placed--at least in so far as agriculture is concerned--will -convince us that their practice is regulated, not so much by caprice -and those "Mede and Persian" laws, as by the laws of nature herself, -upon which the success of the varied operations of agriculture mainly -depend. Thus the crops of rice and cotton are sown on the low lands, -and the sweet potatoes are planted on the hills, year after year, -exactly at the same time. But this regularity is not the effect of -prejudice, nor in obedience to the imperial orders; it is simply -the result of experience which has taught the farmer that this is -the proper time for these operations, because there will then be a -continuance of frequent and copious showers, which will moisten the -earth and the air until such time as the young rootlets have laid hold -of the soil and are capable of sending up sufficient nourishment to the -stems. - -[Illustration: Water-wheel for Irrigation.] - -During the growth of the rice, the fields are always kept flooded when -water can be obtained. The terraces near the base of the hills are -supplied by the mountain streams, and the fields which are above the -level of any adjoining river or canal are flooded by the celebrated -water-wheel, which is in use all over the country. These machines are -of three kinds. The principle in all of them is the same, the only -difference being in the mode of applying the moving power; one is -worked by the hand, another by the feet, and the third by an animal -of some kind, generally a buffalo or bullock. The rice lands are kept -flooded in this way until the crops are nearly ripe, when the water is -no longer necessary. It is also necessary, or at least advantageous, to -go over the ground once or twice during the summer, and stir the soil -up well amongst the roots, at the same time removing any weeds which -may have sprung up. If the weather is wet, the fields retain the water -for a considerable time, and then it is not an uncommon sight to see -the natives wading nearly up to the knees in mud and water, when they -are gathering in the harvest. - -When ripe, the crops are cut with a small instrument, not very unlike -our own reaping-hook, and are generally thrashed out at once in the -fields where they have grown. Sometimes, however, and more particularly -in the north, the paddy is tied up in sheaves, and carried home before -it is thrashed; indeed every thing in the northern agriculture of the -Chinese has a great resemblance to what is practised in Europe. - -The _terrace cultivation_ of China has been noticed by nearly all -writers upon this country, and, like most other subjects, it has been -either much exaggerated or undervalued. It appeared to me to be carried -to the greatest perfection on the hill sides adjacent to the river Min -near Foo-chow-foo; at least I was more struck with it there than any -where else. On sailing up that beautiful river, these terraces look -like steps on the sides of the mountains, one rising above another, -until they sometimes reach six or eight hundred feet above the level -of the sea. When the rice and other crops are young, these terraces -are clothed in luxuriant green, and look like a collection of gardens -among the rugged and barren mountains. The terrace system is adopted -by the Chinese, either for the purpose of supplying the hill sides -with water where paddy is to be grown, or to prevent the heavy rains -from washing down the loose soil from the roots of other vegetables. -Hence these cuttings are seen all over the sides of the hills, not -exactly level like the rice terraces, but level enough to answer the -purpose of checking the rains in their descent down the mountain. For -the same reason, the sweet potato and some other crops which are grown -on the hills are always planted in ridges which run cross-ways or -horizontally; indeed, were the ridges made in a different direction, -the heavy rains which fall in the early summer months would carry both -the loose soil and crops down into the plains. - -Rice is grown on the lower terrace ground, and a stream of water is -always led from some ravine and made to flow across the sides of the -hills, until it reaches the highest terrace, into which it flows and -floods the whole of the level space. When the water rises three or four -inches in height, which is sufficiently high for the rice, it finds -vent at an opening made for the purpose in the bank, through which -it flows into the terrace below, which it floods in the same manner, -and so on to the lowest. In this way the whole of the rice terraces -are kept continually flooded, until the stalks of the crops assume a -yellow ripening hue when the water being no longer required, it is -turned back into its natural channel, or led to a different part of -the hill, for the nourishment of other crops. These mountain streams, -which abound in all parts of the hilly districts, are of the greatest -importance to the farmer; and as they generally spring from a high -elevation in the ravines, they can be conducted at pleasure over all -the lower parts of the hills. No operation in agriculture gives him and -his labourers more pleasure than leading these streams of water from -one place to another and making them subservient to their purposes. In -my travels in the country the inhabitants often called my attention -to this branch of their operations, and I pleased them much when I -expressed my admiration at the skill with which they executed it. The -practice is not confined to the paddy fields; for I remember once, -when superintending the planting of some large trees and shrubs in -the garden of Messrs. Dent & Co. in Hong-kong, after I had given them -a large supply of water at the time they were put into the ground, -I desired the gardener to repeat the dose next morning. But, on the -following day, when I returned to the spot I was surprised to find a -little stream divided into many branches, and meandering amongst the -roots of the newly planted trees. As there was no stream there before, -I went up to examine its source, and found that it had been led from a -neighbouring ravine; a work more easy than carrying a large supply of -water in buckets, and at the same time more effectual. - -Several other summer crops are cultivated in the lowlands. In the -southern provinces, for instance, we find large quantities of the -_Nelumbium speciosum_ grown for its roots, which are much esteemed; the -_Trapa bicornis_, the castoroil plant, _Scirpus tuberosus, Convolvulus -reptans_, and several other vegetables, for which there is a great -demand in all Chinese towns. The sugar cane also is extensively grown -both in the provinces of Quantung and Fokien, and probably in other -parts of the empire. - -In the district of Kiangsoo my attention was directed to a plant -called _Tein-ching_, which is largely cultivated by the inhabitants -for the sake of its blue dye. In the southern provinces a great deal -of indigo (_Indigofera_) is grown and manufactured, in addition to a -large quantity which is annually imported from Manilla and the Straits. -In the north, however, the plant which we call indigo is never met -with, owing, I suppose, to the coldness of the winters; but its place -is supplied by the _Tein-ching_ (_Isatis indigotica_), the leaves of -which are prepared in the same manner as the common indigo. The colour -of the liquid at first is a kind of greenish blue, but, after being -well stirred up and exposed to the air, it becomes much darker. I -suppose it is thickened afterwards by evaporation; but this part of -the process did not come under my observation. I am very much inclined -to believe that this is the dye used to colour the green teas which -are manufactured in the north of China for the English and American -markets: this, however, is only conjecture. - -_The summer productions_ of the hilly country are, of course, different -from those of the plains. From the province of Fokien northward to the -great valley of the Yang-tse-Kiang, the hills are amongst the most -fertile in China. They are frequently terraced in the manner I have -described, and their staple productions, if we except the rice which -is grown on the lower terraces, are sweet potatoes and earth-nuts. In -the southern provinces, when the winters are mild, the roots of the -sweet potato frequently remain in the ground all the winter. In the -north the cold is too severe, and consequently the natives are obliged -to dig up and protect the roots. In April those roots which have been -saved for "seed" are planted thickly in beds near the houses or in -the corners of the fields. They begin to push out their young shoots -immediately, and these are ready to be taken off by the beginning of -May. In the mean time the ground on the hill sides has been prepared, -and horizontal ridges or drills formed about two feet apart. About the -10th or 12th of May these cuttings are taken off and planted, and seem -to grow as readily as couch grass. It is astonishing how well they -succeed, considering the little care expended upon them; but we must -keep in mind that this is the commencement of the rainy season at the -change of the monsoon, that the sky is generally cloudy, that scarcely -a day passes without frequent showers, and that consequently the air is -saturated with moisture. The earth-nuts are grown most extensively in -the southern provinces, more particularly in Fokien; while the sweet -potatoes are better a little farther north, where they form the chief -hill crop. - -The _winter crops_ in the neighbourhood of Macao and Canton consist of -large quantities of our European vegetables, such as potatoes, peas, -onions, and cabbages, which are grown for the supply of the Europeans -who reside at Hong-kong or Canton: our potatoes are generally planted -here in October, which is considered the best time to insure a good -crop; but as they always sell well in the markets, the growers manage -to keep up a succession during the greater part of the year. Several -varieties of the cabbage tribe, which seem indigenous to China, are -grown extensively in the fields at this season both in the south and -north. These never produce a solid heart like our cabbages, and are of -no value when imported to England; but the celebrated "_Pak-tsae_" or -white cabbage of Shantung and Peking, is a very different plant; it is -never grown in the south of China, but is produced in the summer months -in the north. Large quantities of this delicious vegetable are brought -south every autumn, in the junks which sail at the commencement of the -north-east monsoon in October. - -In the northern provinces the principal winter productions are -wheat, barley, peas, beans, the cabbage oil plant, and various other -vegetables of lesser note. These crops are grown on the hills as well -as on the low lands, and on the ground which produces sweet potatoes -in summer. In the Nanking district they fire generally sown or planted -in October upon those lands which produce rice or cotton during the -summer months. Frequently the sowing takes place before the cotton or -the dry summer crops have been removed from the ground, and the young -plants are seen coming up amongst these crops, and ready to take their -place when they are removed. This is done in order to give a longer -season for the ripening of the different crops, and is very generally -practised in the northern districts. The wheat and barley ripen in -Fokien in April, and in the neighbourhood of Shanghae about the middle -of May. About Chinchew and Amoy the wheat crops are so poor that the -labourers pull them up by the hand, in the same manner as we do in -our moorlands in England and Scotland. They are of course much better -in the rich district of Shanghae, but the varieties of both wheat -and barley are far inferior to ours; and as the Chinese sow them too -thickly, they are generally much drawn, and the heads and corn small. -The beans and peas seem to be exactly the same as our field kinds, and -are certainly indigenous to the northern parts of China. Very large -quantities of the cabbage tribe are cultivated for the sake of the oil -which is extracted from their seeds. They are planted out in the fields -in autumn, and their seeds are ripe in April and May, in time to be -removed from the land before the rice crops. It must not be supposed, -however, that the whole of the land is regularly cropt in this manner, -and that, as some writers inform us, it never for a moment lies idle, -for such is not the case. - -In the island of Chusan, and over all the rice country of Chekiang -and Keangsoo, there are two plants cultivated in the winter months, -almost exclusively for manure: the one is a species of _Coronilla_; the -other is _Trefoil_, or clover. Large ridges, not unlike those on which -gardeners grow celery, are thrown up on the wet rice fields in the -autumn, and the seeds of the plants are dropt in, in patches at five -inches apart, on the surface of the ridges. In a few days germination -commences, and long before the winter is past the tops of the ridges -are covered with luxuriant herbage. This goes on growing until April, -when it is necessary to prepare the ground for the rice. The ridges are -then levelled, and the manure plants are scattered in a fresh state -over the surface of the ground. The fields are flooded, and the plough -and harrow are employed to turn up and pulverise the soil. The manure, -thus scattered over the ground and half-buried amongst mud and water, -begins to decay immediately, and gives out a most disagreeable putrid -smell. This mode of manuring is generally adopted in all the rice lands -in this part of China, and the young paddy doubtless derives strong -nourishment from the ammonia given out in the decomposition of this -fresh manure. - -Fire-wood is so scarce in the country that a great portion of the -straw, cotton stalks, and grass, which would go to manure the fields, -is used for firing, and, therefore, the plan of growing manure for the -land is forced upon the farmers by necessity. The plan of using manure -in a fresh state, instead of allowing it first to decay, has doubtless -been found from long experience to be the best for the young paddy. -The Chinese farmer is not a chemist; he knows little or nothing of -vegetable physiology, but his forefathers have hit accidentally upon -certain systems which are found in practice to succeed, and to these he -himself adheres, and hands them down unchanged to his children. - -When the first crop of rice is cut, the second, which has been planted -in the alternate rows, is left to grow and ripen in the autumn; the -ground is stirred up, and the stubble and part of the straw of the -first crop is immediately worked up with the mud and water between the -rows: this decays in the same manner as the trefoil in spring, and -affords manure to the second crop. Prawns and fish of various kinds are -frequently used for the same purpose and in the same way. - -Burnt earth mixed with decomposed vegetable matter is another highly -esteemed manure, and is common in all the agricultural districts. -During the summer months all sorts of vegetable rubbish are collected -in heaps by the road-sides, and mixed with straw, grass, parings of -turf, &c., which are set on fire and burn slowly for several days, -until all the rank vegetable matter is decomposed, and the whole -reduced to a rich black earth. It is then turned over several times, -when it presents the same appearance as the vegetable mould used in -gardens in England. This manure is not scattered over the land, but -reserved for covering the seeds, and is applied in the following -manner. When the seed time arrives, one man makes the holes, another -follows and drops in the seeds, and a third puts a handful of this -black earth on the top of them. Being principally vegetable matter, it -keeps the seeds loose and moist during the period of germination, and -afterwards affords them nourishment. This manure is useful mechanically -as well as chemically in a stiff soil, like that of the low lands -of China, where the seeds are apt to be injured in the process of -germination. The young crop thus planted acquires a vigour in its first -growth, which enables it to assimilate the matter which forms the -strong stiff soil, and to strike its roots firmly into it. - -What is commonly known by the name of oil-cake, is broken up and used -in the same manner as the vegetable earth, and is also scattered -broadcast over the land. The oil-cake is the remains or refuse of the -seeds of several different plants, such as the tallow tree, various -kinds of beans, and the cabbage formerly mentioned. There is a great -demand for this manure in all parts of the country, and it forms a very -considerable branch of trade both by sea and land. Bones, shells, old -lime, soot, ashes, and all kinds of rubbish, are also eagerly bought up -by the farmer for the purpose of manure. - -In the Fa-tee gardens near Canton the proprietors have a curious kind -of rich mud, which they cut up into small square bits, and sell at a -very high price for the growing of plants in pots. This is obtained -chiefly from the ponds and lakes in the vicinity, where the _Nelumbium -speciosum_ grows. This soil is so much esteemed, that the price for -the best kind is 1 dollar for 3 peculs[2], and for the second 1 dollar -for 4 peculs. The inferior sort has been frequently sent to England in -plant cases from Canton. - -For crops in a vigorous growing state no kind of manure is so eagerly -sought after as night soil, and every traveller in China has remarked -the large cisterns or earthen tubs which are placed in the most -conspicuous and convenient situation for the reception of this kind -of manure. What would be considered an intolerable nuisance in every -civilised town in Europe, is here looked upon by all classes, rich and -poor, with the utmost complacency; and I am convinced that nothing -would astonish a Chinaman more, than hearing any one complain of the -stench which is continually rising from these manure tanks. Almost -every Chinese town is placed on the banks of a river or canal, and the -water is generally led not only round the walls, thus forming a kind -of moat, but also through many parts of the city. Long clumsy boats -are placed in different departments of the town, into which the night -soil and urine are emptied and conveyed from thence into the country. -The fields in the neighbourhood of cities are generally supplied with -it by coolies, who go every morning to market loaded with the produce -of their firms. Each brings home two buckets of this manure, slung at -the ends of his bamboo pole. In England it is generally supposed that -the Chinese carry the night soil and urine to these tanks, and leave -it there to undergo fermentation, before they apply it to the land. -This, however, is not the case; at least, not generally. In the fertile -agricultural districts in the north, I have observed that the greater -part of this stimulant is used in a fresh state, being of course -sufficiently diluted with water before it is applied to the crops. And -there can be little doubt that in this the Chinese are perfectly right, -as the manure must be much more efficient in this state than when a -great portion of its ammonia has passed off into the air. The Chinese, -as far as I could learn, have no mode of disinfecting their manure, but -they seem to be perfectly aware, that if allowed free access to the air -a great loss must result, owing to the gases which are given out and -dissipated. Without waiting, then, for fermentation or putrefaction, -this manure is at once applied to the growing crops. On the afternoons, -or on cloudy days, the labourers are seen carrying water from the -nearest pond or canal to the manure tank, for the purpose of diluting -its contents. This being done, they fill their buckets, attaching one -to each end of their bamboo in the usual way, and carry them off to -their destination. When this is reached, each man takes a small wooden -ladle having a long bamboo handle, and with this he scatters the liquid -over the growing crop. A strong stimulant like this would probably in -other circumstances have an injurious effect; but, by using it only -when the crops are young and luxuriant, they assimilate its gases, and -a most marked effect is produced upon their growth and productiveness. -This kind of liquid manure is generally applied to wheat, barley, and -all the cabbage tribe, and other garden vegetables; but not to rice, -which is always flooded during its growth. - -This manure is sometimes used after putrefaction and fermentation -have taken place, and even in this state it is very efficient. In the -gardens near Canton it is often dried and mixed with the soil taken -from the bottom of the Lotus ponds, and used for growing plants in -pots, or for enriching any particular tree which may be a favourite in -the garden. - -Although the land is sometimes allowed to lie idle for some months, yet -there is no regular system of fallowing, nor is the rotation of crops -much known or practised. Indeed, as regards the low lands, the soil -being a kind of stiff, strong clay, capable of yielding many crops of -rice in succession, without being in any way burthened or impoverished, -no such mode of cultivation is necessary. - - -[1] Several of our ploughs have been sent out to China, and offered to -the native farmers _gratis_, but they will not use them. - -[2] A Chinese pecul is equal to 133-1/4 lbs. - - - - CHAP. XVII. - -RETURN TO CHUSAN.--ITS SUPPOSED UNHEALTHINESS.--MORTALITY AMONGST THE -QUEEN'S TROOPS WHEN FIRST STATIONED THERE.--SUBSEQUENT SALUBRITY.--ITS -ADVANTAGES OVER HONG-KONG AS A BRITISH SETTLEMENT.--NEW PLANTS FOUND -ON THE ISLAND.--NINGPO.--GARDENS OF THE MANDARINS.--MANNERS OF CHINESE -LADIES.--SAIL FOR HONG-KONG.--TOMBS OF THE CHINESE.--SITUATIONS -SUPPOSED TO BE THE BEST.--SOOTHSAYERS EMPLOYED.--THEIR METHODS OF -WORKING ON THE MINDS OF THE PEOPLE.--MR. LAY CONSULTED AS TO THE BEST -SITE FOR A GRAVE.--INSCRIPTIONS ON THE TOMBS.--PERIODICAL VISITS TO -THEM BY RELATIVES.--DIFFERENT MODES OF INTERMENT.--COFFINS EXPOSED IN -THE FIELDS.--KEPT IN HOUSES.--TOMB NEAR SUNG-KIANG-FOO.--FAVOURITE -FLOWERS FOR PLANTING ON THE GRAVES. - - -My first visit to Chusan in 1843 was during the autumn and winter, -but in 1844 I had an opportunity of exploring this beautiful island, -at intervals, from the commencement of spring, until the close of the -season. At this time the first impression regarding the unhealthiness -of the climate had been entirely removed, and the island was looked -upon as the most healthy in the Chinese seas. - -It will be recollected that when the island was first occupied by -our troops, the mortality was so great that the place was pronounced -by every one to be the most unhealthy in China. Many a brave soldier -fell a victim to the malignant fever which prevailed at the time. No -regiment suffered more than Her Majesty's 26th, the "Cameronians," -who were encamped on a green hill which overlooked the city, and -which certainly appeared to be the most healthy spot which could have -been selected for the purpose. That place still bears the name of the -"Cameronian Hill," and is now thickly strewed with the graves of our -countrymen. - -It soon became evident, that this great mortality proceeded from other -causes than the paddy fields which surrounded the city of Tinghae. -Invalids from Hong-kong and Amoy were sent here to recover their -health; and the difference in the appearance of the troops stationed -in Chusan, from those in Hong-kong, was most marked. Dr. Maxwell of -the Madras army, who was a most excellent judge in such matters, has -often expressed his opinion, that, with good medical skill and ordinary -care, this beautiful island might have been rendered one of the most -healthy stations for our troops in the East. Indeed, every one now -seemed to regret that we had not secured Chusan as a part of the -British dominions for the protection of our trade in China, instead of -the barren and unhealthy island of Hong-kong; and some even went so -far as to recommend that means should still be taken by our government -to accomplish this desirable end. The time, however, for doing this -had gone by, and I believe that every right-thinking person would have -seen with regret any power exercised by a great and exalted nation like -England to infringe a solemn treaty "which had been entered into with a -nation so utterly powerless as the Chinese; and most assuredly nothing -less than this--no negotiations or promises--would have induced the -Chinese to give up an island like Chusan, which commands the central -and most important parts of their empire. That we committed a blunder -and made a bad bargain is quite certain, but having done so, we must -abide by the consequences. Had we retained Chusan, it would not only -have been a healthy place for our troops and merchants, but it would -also have proved a safeguard to our trade in the north, which must -ultimately become of greater importance than that at Canton. Moreover, -we should have been in a central position as regards a large and -important part of the world, which must sooner or later open its ports -to our commerce. I allude of course to Japan and Corea, both of which -are only a few days' sail from Chusan, and are still in a great measure -sealed countries to Europeans. These regrets, however, are vain. - -Chusan in spring is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. -It reminds the Englishman of his own native land. In the mornings the -grass sparkles with dew, the air is cool and refreshing, the birds are -singing in every bush, and flowers are hanging in graceful festoons -from the trees and hedges. - -The new plants of the island, some of which I had discovered in the -preceding autumn, I now saw in flower for the first time. Early in -spring the hill sides were covered with a beautiful Daphne with lilac -flowers (_Daphne Fortuni_ Lindl.); _Azalea ovata_ Lindl., certainly -one of the finest and most distinct plants of this kind which I have -introduced, also grows wild on the hills, and was in full bloom at -this period. A fine new Buddlea (_B. Bindleyana_) had a most graceful -appearance, as its long spikes of purple flowers hung in profusion from -the hedges on the hill sides, often side by side with the well-known -_Glycine sinensis_. Another plant, certainly one of the most beautiful -shrubs of northern China, the _Weigela rosea_, was first discovered -in the garden of a Chinese mandarin near the city of Tinghae on this -island. This spring, it was loaded with its noble rose-coloured -flowers, and was the admiration of all who saw it, both English and -Chinese. I have great pleasure in saying that all these plants and many -others, natives of Chusan, are now growing in our gardens in England. - -Ningpo is about 40 miles west from Chusan, and is situated on the -mainland. My visits to it at different times during this summer were -attended with much less difficulty than in the preceding autumn. I was -now beginning to speak a little Chinese, and was perfectly acquainted -with the town, and the whole of the places where the different -mandarins' gardens and nurseries were situated. The mandarins were -particularly inquisitive at this time about every thing which related -to the movements of the English, or other foreigners, who were likely -to establish themselves at their port; and I soon perceived that, as we -were able to keep up a conversation together in Chinese, my visits were -very agreeable to them. The nurserymen, too, having found out that my -money was as valuable to them as that which they received from their -own countrymen, threw aside their shyness, and were all anxiety to sell -me any plants I wanted. - -The gardens of the mandarins were extremely gay, particularly during -the early months of the year; and, what was of more importance to me, -contained a number of new plants of great beauty and interest. On -entering one of the gardens on a fine morning in May, I was struck with -a mass of yellow flowers which completely covered a distant part of the -wall. The colour was not a common yellow, but had something of buff -in it, which gave the flowers a striking and uncommon appearance. I -immediately ran up to the place, and, to my surprise and delight, found -that it was a most beautiful _new double yellow climbing rose_. I have -no doubt, from what I afterwards learned, that this rose is from the -more northern districts of the empire, and will prove perfectly hardy -in Europe. Another rose, which the Chinese call the "_five coloured,_" -was also found in one of these gardens at this time. It belongs to the -section commonly called China roses in this country, but grows in a -very strange and beautiful manner. Sometimes it produces self-coloured -blooms--being either red or French white, and frequently having flowers -of both on one plant at the same time--while at other times the -flowers are striped with the two colours. This will also be as hardy -as our common China rose. _Glycine sinensi_s is often grown on a flat -trellis in front of the summer-house, or forms a kind of portico, which -affords a pleasing shade. Entwined with one of these trees, I found -another variety, having very long racemes of pure white flowers, which -contrasted well with the light blue of the other. I obtained permission -from the old Chinese gentleman to whom it belonged (my old friend Dr. -Chang) to make some layers of this fine plant, and I am happy to say -that one of these is now alive in the garden at Chiswick. - -The Horticultural Society having sent me out some small optical -instruments to be given as presents, I presented some of them to the -Doctor, with which he was much pleased, and offered in return to let -me have whatever cuttings or plants from his garden I might wish to -possess. - -We are generally led to believe that ladies of rank in this country are -never seen by visitors. It is quite true that Chinese custom, in this -respect, differs entirely from ours; and that the females here, like -those of most half civilised or barbarous nations, are kept in the back -ground, and are not considered as on an equality with their husbands. -For example, they do not sit at the same table; when a "sing-song" -or theatrical performance is got up, they are put in a place out of -view, where they can see all that is going on and yet remain unseen. -But for all this they are not entirely secluded from society; at least -they used frequently to honour me with their presence, and crowd round -me with the greatest curiosity. At first they used to be extremely -shy, and only took sly peeps at me from behind doors and through -windows; by and by, however, their strong curiosity conquered their -bashfulness, and then they used to stand and look on very composedly. -They generally, however, kept at a little distance, and whenever a -movement was made towards where they stood, they pretended to be vastly -frightened, and ran away; but they soon came back again. - -To Mr. Mackenzie, one of our merchants at Ningpo, and also to Mr. Thom, -Her Majesty's consul, I was greatly indebted for their kindness and -hospitality. They did every thing in their power to forward my views, -and to both these gentlemen I take this opportunity of rendering my -best thanks. - -After having spent the summer in the districts of Ningpo, Chusan, and -Shanghae, I returned to the last-mentioned place, where my plants were -all collected, intending immediately to sail for Hong-kong, and send -a portion of them home to England; but the exposure to the sun during -the summer was now beginning to affect my health, and when I landed at -Shanghae I was laid up with a severe attack of fever. Providentially -this happened when I was amongst my English friends, and, as I had the -means of procuring excellent medical advice, I recovered in the course -of a fortnight, and was able to proceed to sea, where the change of air -completed my cure. I reached Hong-kong in November, and forthwith made -preparations for sending my collections home in several vessels, which -were at anchor in the bay at this time. - -During the summer which had now passed by, I had had frequent -opportunities of inspecting the tombs of the Chinese both in the -northern and southern districts. In the south, the natives form -no regular cemeteries or churchyards, as we do in Europe, but the -tombs of the dead are scattered all over the sides of the hills, the -most pleasant situations being generally selected. The more wealthy -individuals often convey their dead a considerable distance, and -employ a kind of fortune-teller, whose duty it is to find out the -most appropriate resting-place. This man goes with the corpse to -the place appointed, and of course pretends to be very wise in the -selection of the spot, as well as in the choice of the soil with which -the ashes of the dead are to mingle in after years; and upon trial, -should the particular earth appear unsuitable, he immediately orders -the procession off to some other place in the neighbourhood, where he -expects to be more successful. I believe many of the Chinese have this -important point settled before they die; for one day when one of our -principal merchants went to call on old Howqua, the late Hong merchant -at Canton, a tray was brought into the room with several kinds of earth -upon it, which the old man examined with great care, and then fixed on -the one in which he wished to be buried. - -A situation on the hill side is also considered of great importance, -especially if it commands a view of a beautiful bay or lake. But I -believe that of all places the one most coveted is where a winding -stream, in its course, passes and then returns again to the foot -of the hill where the grave is to be made. The director of the -ceremonies, with a compass in his hand, settles the direction in which -the body is to lie, which is another point of great importance. An -intelligent Chinese, with whom I was acquainted, informed me that this -fortune-teller of the dead is often very eloquent in his descriptions -of the future happiness of those who obey his directions; he informs -them that they or their children, or some one in whom they are much -interested, shall enjoy riches and honours in after life, as a reward -for the attention and respect they have paid to the remains of their -fathers; that as the stream which they then behold when standing around -their father's grave flows and returns again in its windings, so shall -their path through life be smooth and pleasant until they sink into -the tomb hoary with years, respected, beloved, and mourned by their -children. - -These men are generally great rogues, and play upon the prejudices -of the people. It frequently happens, that after a corpse has been -interred for some time, they call upon the relatives, and inform them, -that for some cause which they affect to explain, it is absolutely -necessary to remove and re-inter it. Should the relations object to -this, the answer is, "Very well, I don't care, but your children and -relations will also be regardless of your remains when you die, and you -will be miserable in your graves." The feelings of the poor deluded -people are thus wrought upon, and a further sum of money is extracted -for finding a more suitable grave. - -The late Mr. Lay, during one of his rambles amongst the hills on the -banks of the river Min, was present at one of these ceremonies, and the -relatives of the deceased crowded round him and consulted him as to the -site of the grave, under the impression that he was well versed in such -matters. He remarks in his journal, that "much good or much evil is -thought to betide the survivors from a right or wrong position. Keangse -practitioners in this '_te-le_' and '_fung shwuy,_' or soothsaying from -the influence of the earth's local modalities, get large moneys by the -trade; but as they do not agree amongst themselves, the people are fain -to ask counsel of a stranger." - -In my travels in the south of China I often came upon graves in the -most retired places amongst the hills; they were all more or less of -the same form, namely, a half circle cut out of the hill side, having -the body interred behind it. Sometimes, indeed generally, there were -several of these half-circles with a succession of terraces in front -of the grave; and in the burying-places of the more wealthy, the -semi-circles were built of brick or stone, and on a more extensive -scale. In the centre of the semi-circle, and of course near the -body, the grave stone is placed with its inscription. M. Callery, -an excellent Chinese scholar, informed me that these inscriptions -are always of the most simple kind, merely stating the name of the -deceased, that he died in such a dynasty, in such a year. This is the -plain and unflattering tale which the Chinese tombstone tells. In some -instances--I cannot tell if in all--after the body has decayed, the -bones are dug up, and carefully put into earthenware vessels, which -are then placed on the hill side above ground. These, as well as the -graves, are visited at stated times by the relatives. They go first to -the grave of the patriarch, or father of the tribe, and then to those -of the other members of the family in rotation, where they perform -their devotions, and offer incense. They afterwards dine together when -the ceremonies are over. - -I was once or twice in the wild mountain districts in the interior, -at the time when the natives visited the tombs. Even the most retired -parts had their visitors, and it was both pleasing and affecting to see -the little groups assembled round the graves, paying the tribute of -affection to those whose memory they revered and loved. The widow was -seen kneeling by the grave of her lost husband; children, often very -young, shedding tears of sorrow for a father or mother; and, sometimes, -an old man whose hair was white with age, was there mourning the loss -of those whom he had looked to as the support of his declining years. -All were cutting the long grass and weeds which were growing round the -tombs, and planting their favourite flowers to bloom and to decorate -them. - -Near Amoy, this scattered mode of interring the dead has been departed -from, and perhaps necessarily, in consequence of the large population; -in the country, however, I sometimes found tombs in retired and -inaccessible parts of the hills here, as well as in the more southern -provinces; but these were evidently the property of the wealthy -inhabitants. - -As the traveller proceeds northward, the circular form of the tombs is -less common and they become more varied in their appearance. In Chusan, -Ningpo, and various other places in that district, a great number of -the coffins are placed on the surface of the ground and merely thatched -over with straw. I met with these coffins in all sorts of places,--on -the sides of the public highway--on the banks of the rivers and -canals--and in woods and other retired parts of the country. Sometimes -the thatch was completely off, the wood rotten, and the remains of the -Chinamen of former days exposed to view. On one hill side on the island -of Chusan, skulls and bones are lying about in all directions, and more -than once when wandering through the long brushwood in this place, I -have been entangled by getting my feet through the lid of a coffin. - -[Illustration: Tombs on the Island of Chusan.] - -I believe that the wealthy in these districts generally bury their -dead, and some of them build very chaste and beautiful tombs. There -are three or four very fine ones in the island of Chusan, where the -paving in front of the mound which contains the body is beautiful, -and the carving elaborate; the whole of the stone-work is square, -instead of circular as in the tombs in the south of China. Here, as -at home--and I believe in every part of the world--trees of the pine -tribe are generally planted in the burying-grounds. Lord Jocelyn, -in his "Campaign in China," mentions such places in the following -beautiful and appropriate language:--"Here and there, as if dropped -at random upon the sides of the hills, were clumps of pine trees, and -peeping through their thick foliage, the roofs of houses and temples -diversified the scene. Amongst many of the beautiful groves of trees -which here invite the wanderer to repose, spots are selected as the -resting-places of mortality; and gazing on those tranquil scenes, where -the sweet clematis and fragrant flowers help to decorate the last home -of man, the most careless eye cannot fail to mark the beauties of the -grave." - -In the Shanghae district I have frequently visited large houses which -seem to have been built by the rich expressly as mausoleums. In these -houses I generally found a coffin in one of the principal rooms, and an -altar, with all the trappings of idolatry, where incense on high days -is burned to the memory of the deceased, and various other ceremonies -are gone through by the relatives. These houses or temples are -generally surrounded by a pine wood, and sometimes the body is buried -out of doors--the altar and records only being kept in the temple, -where a servant with his family is always placed to look after them. - -When the English first established themselves at Shanghae, some of -them had thoughts of taking houses in the country that their families -might enjoy retirement and fresh air. One day towards the end of 1843, -I accompanied a gentleman of my acquaintance on an errand of this -kind. When we had proceeded about six or eight miles from Shanghae, we -observed a good-looking house in a wood hard by, and determined to pay -it a visit and see whether the occupant would be inclined to let it. -As we drew near, all was still and quiet; not even our old enemies, -the dogs, appeared to dispute our approach. When the Chinese,--who -always followed us in considerable numbers wherever we went--saw us -approaching the house, they stood still at a little distance, watching -our proceedings with a great degree of interest. We knocked at the door -of the mansion, and then stood at one side so that the porter might not -see that his visitors were the _Hong-mou-jins_, or red-haired race, -as they are pleased to call the English; for we well knew that if we -were seen, the door would not be opened. In a few seconds we heard the -sounds of feet, and then a voice summoned us to know our business. -We mumbled something in Chinese, and the poor man, quite unconscious -of his danger, threw open the door. I shall never forget the look of -mingled fear and astonishment which he gave us as we quietly walked -into the court; at the same time the group of natives outside were -indulging in hearty laughter at the way in which he had been entrapped. - -The court-yard, where we now were, was neatly paved, and the whole of -the house appeared to be in excellent repair. As we were led from room -to room by our terrified guide, every thing appeared quite suitable -for a country residence, at least, as good as one could expect in such -an out-of-the-way place, and my friend remarked that it was the best -he had yet seen, and that he should certainly make an effort to get -possession of it. At last we came to what appeared the principal room: -"Ah, this shall be my drawing-room," said my companion, "but what is -that?" added he in the same breath. I looked in the direction in which -he pointed, and a large massive coffin met my eye. We then discovered -that we were in one of those places set apart for the remains of the -dead. - -During one of my journeys in the interior, I met with a very curious -tomb near the town of Sung-kiang-foo. It was placed on the side of -a hill, in a wood, and evidently belonged to some very wealthy or -important personage of that city. From the base of the hill to where -the tomb stood about halfway up--the visitor ascended by abroad flight -of steps, on each side of which were placed a number of figures carved -in stone. As far as I can recollect, the following was the order in -which the figures were placed; first, a pair of goats or sheep, one -on each side; second, two dogs; third, two cats; fourth, two horses -saddled and bridled; and fifth, two most gigantic priests; the effect -of the whole being most strange and imposing. There is another tomb of -the same description near Ningpo, but on a much smaller scale. - -The flowers which the Chinese plant on or among the tombs are simple -and beautiful in their kind. No expensive camellias, moutans, or other -of the finer ornaments of the garden are chosen for this purpose. -Sometimes the conical mound of earth,--when the grave is of this -kind,--is crowned with a large plant of fine, tall, waving grass; -at Ningpo wild roses are planted, which soon spread themselves over -the grave, and, when their flowers expand in spring, cover it with a -sheet of pure white. At Shanghae a pretty bulbous plant, a species of -_Lycoris_, covers the graves in autumn with masses of brilliant purple. -When I first discovered the _Anemone Japonica_, it was in full flower -amongst the graves of the natives, which are round the ramparts of -Shanghae; it blooms in November, when other flowers have gone by, and -is a most appropriate ornament to the last resting-places of the dead. - -The poor, as well as the rich, often keep their dead in their -dwelling-houses for a long time; I should imagine, from the numerous -coffins which I met with in such circumstances, that many are thus kept -for years. The coffins are remarkably thick and strong, and the joints -so carefully cemented that no unpleasant smell is emitted during the -decay of the body. - -Much of the respect which is paid by the Chinese to the memory of their -deceased relatives, may doubtless be a mere matter of form, sanctioned -and rendered necessary by the custom of ages, but I am inclined to -think that a considerable portion springs from a higher and purer -source, and I have no doubt that when the Chinese periodically visit -the tombs of their fathers to worship and pay respect to their memory, -they indulge in the pleasing reflection, that when they themselves are -no more, their graves will not be neglected or forgotten--but will also -be visited by their children and grand-children, in whose hearts and -affections they will live for many, many years after their bodies have -mouldered into dust. - -[Illustration: Tomb of a Mandarin's Wife.] - - - - CHAP. XVIII. - -PLANTS SHIPPED FOR ENGLAND.--SAIL FOR MANILA.--NATURAL -PRODUCTIONS AND EXPORTS.--PASSPORT ANNOYANCES.--THE INTERIOR OF -LUZON--ITS LAGUNA.--EARLY MORNING IN THE PHILIPPINES.--VALUABLE -PLANTS PROCURED.--THE "QUEEN OF ORCHIDS."--NATURAL HABITS OF -AIR-PLANTS.--LAWLESS BANDITTI OF THE INTERIOR.--A FALSE ALARM.--MONKEYS -MORE HARMLESS THAN MEN.--A NIGHT AT DOLORES WITH THE PADRE.--VOLCANOES -IN THE PHILIPPINES.--GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.--LEECHES NOT -VERY AGREEABLE COMPANIONS.--RETURN TO MANILA AND SHIP PLANTS FOR -ENGLAND.--SAIL FOR THE NORTH OF CHINA.--"A MAN OVERBOARD"--HIS RECOVERY -BY A GALLANT BOAT'S CREW.--ARRIVE IN THE NORTH. - - -The collections of plants and seeds which I had made during the summer -and autumn of 1844 arrived in safety at Hong-kong, and I lost no time -in shipping them for England. All the living objects were planted as -usual in "Ward's cases," well guarded with iron bars and placed upon -the poops of the largest vessels I could find then at anchor in the -bay. I always took care to divide my collections into three or four -parts for the purpose of sending them by different ships, so that if -any thing happened to one portion, the others had a chance of reaching -England in safety. The last shipment at this time was made on the 31st -of December. As it was then winter in the northern provinces, and as -nothing could be done in the south, I determined to go over to the -Philippine Islands for a few weeks, and accordingly sailed for Manila -in the beginning of January, 1845. - -The voyage from Hong-kong to Manila at this season is generally -made in six or eight days, as the monsoon is fair. I need not give -any description of the town, which is well known as being the chief -Spanish settlement in the Philippines. The inhabitants are principally -Spaniards, Indians, Chinese, and there are a few English mercantile -establishments. The chief productions and exports are sugar, coffee, -rice, cheroots, and indigo. The beautiful cloth generally known by the -name of _Pinia_, which is made from the fibre of the pine-apple plant, -is manufactured and embroidered by the natives and is sold in the -shops. A kind of hemp, the produce of a species of _Musa_, is also made -into ropes and cables; it is highly prized and in much demand amongst -the shipping in the East. The cigar manufactory, a government monopoly, -is one of the largest establishments in the town; almost the whole of -the labour in it is performed by women and girls. When I landed, it -happened to be the hour when the work people were coming out of the -factory and the streets were crowded with females. As I was not aware -of the circumstance, I began to think that the women must form the -chief part of the population. - -As I had no object in remaining in the town, I applied to the -authorities for a passport to enable me to proceed at once into the -interior of the island. The traveller, if he is not well acquainted -with the customs of the place, is exposed to much annoyance from the -Spanish regulations regarding passports. Some new regulations had been -established just before my arrival, and I found that I could not land -without either having a passport, or getting some well-known merchant -to become surety for my conduct. Having landed, a second passport was -necessary to enable me to remain on the island, another before I could -go into the interior, and a fourth when I wished to leave the country. -These passports had to be signed by different individuals, and at -different offices, and if the slightest informality occurred, the party -was turned back or the vessel detained. I was much indebted to Messrs. -Butler, and Messrs. Holliday, Wise & Co., English merchants at Manila, -who rendered me every assistance in their power. - -Having at length got over these difficulties and engaged some guides -and servants, our baggage was put into a Banca or boat, and we started -for the Laguna, a large lake in the interior, and the source of the -river on which the town of Manila stands. We had to cross the lake; and -we were strongly advised to do so at night, as it is generally smooth -at this time. We soon perceived the value of this advice. The Bancas -are built long and narrow for swiftness, as they have often to make way -against a rapid current, which flows down the river. Out-riggers are -fixed to the sides of the boats, to enable the Indians to run out and -balance them when the wind comes down in strong puffs, and when without -these they would be often thrown on their beam ends and capsized. - -When I awoke in the morning we were half-way across the lake, and -day was just dawning. Those who have never been in eastern tropical -countries can form no idea of the beauty and freshness of early morning -in the Philippines. The broad sheet of water through which we were -swiftly passing was smooth as glass, and shone like a mirror; there was -not a breath of air to disturb it. The shores of the lake were rich in -vegetation; trees and bushes dipping their luxuriant branches into the -water, and crowning the summit of every hill. In this beautiful region -winter is unknown, for here, "the trees ever blossom, the beams ever -shine." - -As soon as the sun began to appear above the horizon, the whole surface -of the lake was put in motion by the breeze which then began to blow, -and which gradually increased until it became a pretty strong gale. Our -sail was close reefed, and all the crew except the man at the helm, -stood on the out-riggers to balance the boat, walking out or in as the -wind was more or less powerful. In less than half an hour the lake was -covered with waves rolling like those of the sea. Every now and then -we took one on board, and were soon, as well as our beds and baggage, -completely drenched with water. Luckily we were near our destination -on the opposite shore, where we soon arrived in safety. I counsel all -travellers to beware of crossing the Laguna; by day and I took good -care to avoid doing so on my return. - -Having landed I made the best of my way to the farm of Don Inego -Gonzales de Azaola, whom I had met in Manila, and who had kindly -offered me the use of his house in the interior. My chief object in -visiting this part of the country was to procure, if possible, a supply -of the beautiful orchid (_Phalænopsis amabilis_), which Cuming had sent -home a few years before, but which was still extremely rare in England. -His Grace the Duke of Devonshire purchased the first plant, for which -he gave the large sum of one hundred guineas. - -As I had very little time to spare, I was anxious to make the most of -my opportunities. I made an Indian's hut in the wood my head quarters -where I held a sort of market for the purchase of orchids. The Indians -knew the hour at which I should return to the hut, and on my arrival -I generally found the ground in front strewed with orchids in the -state in which they had been cut from the trees, and many of them -covered with flowers. The _Phalænopsis_, in particular, was singularly -beautiful. I was very anxious to get some large specimens of the plant, -and offered a dollar, which was a high sum in an Indian forest, for -the largest which should be brought to me. The lover of this beautiful -tribe will easily imagine the delight I felt, when, one day I saw two -Indians approaching with a plant of extraordinary size, having ten -or twelve branching flower-stalks upon it, and upwards of a hundred -flowers in full bloom. "There," said they, in triumph, "is not that -worth a dollar?" I acknowledged that they were well entitled to the -reward, and took immediate possession of my prize. This plant is now in -the garden of the Horticultural Society of London; and although it was -a little reduced, in order to get it into the plant case at Manila, is -still by far the largest specimen in Europe. This beautiful species may -be well called the "Queen of Orchids." - -The air-plants are not found so frequently in the dense shaded parts of -the forests as in the edges of the woods, on trees by the road-sides, -and in exposed situations. I found the genus _Aërides_ very often -in the most dense parts of the woods, but never a single plant of -_Phalænopsis_. The latter was commonly found growing on the branches -of the Mango in the cleared parts of the woods, near the cottages of -the Indians, and sometimes on the very tops of high trees where it was -fully exposed to the sun. I confess this fact was quite contrary to -the opinion I had formed of the habits of these plants; for I expected -to have found them principally in damp shaded forests, where the sun's -rays could seldom penetrate; but such is not the case, at least in the -Philippine Islands. - -Having ransacked the country around Don Inego's farm, I now set off, -accompanied by my servants and some other Indians to St. Pablo and -Dolores. Dolores is a small village in a wild part of the country, -where the natives bear a very bad character, having frequently attacked -and robbed travellers. During our progress my companions related a -great many stories of this kind, and were evidently not a little -frightened. The roads were only narrow lanes, leading through dense -thickets of brushwood, and the locality was certainly an excellent -one for lawless characters of every description to do exactly as they -pleased in. On one occasion, when I had gone a little way ahead of the -party, something alarmed them, and the whole set took to their heels -and ran off in another direction. I rode back after the fugitives, -and being well armed explored the ground in every direction to find -out the cause of their alarm, but could discover nothing, and at -length I persuaded them to return and pursue the journey. Shortly -after this, however, a wild-looking Indian stepped out of the forest, -and stood eyeing us narrowly as we passed him oil the road. He had a -short matchlock in his hand, and evidently belonged to the band of -free-booters who infested this part of the country. I passed him in -a very slow and deliberate manner, taking care to watch his motions, -and to let him see that I and some of my party were well armed, and -prepared for any attack. After looking at us in silence for a minute or -two, he jumped into the jungle and disappeared. - -As our path winded through the jungle, we sometimes could only see -a very short distance either before or behind us. At one of these -bends we heard a noise amongst the bushes, as if a number of men -were advancing rapidly towards us, and naturally concluded that we -were about to be attacked. A halt was instantly called, and then the -question was whether we should advance or recede. As I had no time to -lose I looked to my fire-arms and determined to proceed. Accordingly -I rode forward a few paces to reconnoitre, and saw a numerous band, -not of robbers or free-booters, but--I hope my courteous reader will -not laugh--of monkeys! there must have been several hundreds of -these animals on the trees, jumping about from branch to branch, and -evidently enjoying themselves vastly. As we passed amongst them they -commenced chattering and making all sorts of faces at us. - -At length we reached the little village of Dolores, and as in duty -bound, I immediately went to pay my respects to the Padre. His house -was a small miserable hut, little better than those of the Indians -which surrounded it, and poorly furnished. - -He received us kindly, and told us that we were welcome to the shelter -his house afforded, and that although he had little to offer us in -the way of luxuries, he should do every thing in his power to make us -comfortable. At the same time he informed us we were in a dangerous -neighbourhood, and that he could not answer for the security of the -ponies or baggage. The servants and Indians who accompanied me, were -accommodated in another house which was building for the Padre, and -the ponies were tied up there, and a watch set over them. The Indians -mounted guard by turns; they were well armed, and as they were much -frightened, there was no danger of their neglecting their duty. I was -told in the morning, that they had been roused several times during -the night; but I fancy imagination had something to do with it, as -I found that every thing belonging to us was perfectly safe. In the -evening, after dark, the worthy Padre did every thing in his power to -amuse me. He had an old pianoforte which had found its way by some -means into this wild mountain district, but I presume it had never -been tuned since its first arrival, for it was sadly out of order. On -this he played a number of Spanish and Italian airs, accompanying the -instrument with his voice. After exhausting his own stock of songs -he sent for his servant-boy, and the head man of the village, who -were musicians, and got up a sort of concert. The Padre played on the -pianoforte, the boy on the fife, and the other on the clarionette. It -must be confessed, however, that the music was not very harmonious. - -The greater part of the following day was spent in exploring the -surrounding country, and in the afternoon I bade the hospitable -priest adieu, and started for St. Pablo, which was situated in a more -civilised part of the country. There, also, and indeed wherever I went, -the priests were most kind and hospitable. - -The Philippine Islands must, atone time, have been a complete nest of -volcanoes. With one exception, they are now all inactive; but traces -of them were met with at every step of our progress through the higher -districts of the country, in the form of circular pools of stagnant -water, and masses of lava which still emit a most disagreeable odour -when they are stirred up. On the top of a high hill, near St. Pablo, I -came unexpectedly on the remains of a still more recent volcano. The -trees in its vicinity were in a most unhealthy state, many of their -roots and branches being decayed. Sometimes I sunk nearly up to the -knees amongst burnt-looking earth, which emitted a strong sulphureous -smell; and, as none of the natives were with me, I was sometimes afraid -of getting into the mouth of the crater, and going down altogether. - -The Island of Luzon, of which Manila is the capital, is very like -Java and other parts of the straits. It is very hilly, but extremely -fertile, and affords a most striking contrast to the barren shores -of the south of China which I had just left. Large crops of rice are -produced on the low lands which are capable of being flooded. Sugar -and tobacco are grown on such ground as would produce good wheat in -England; and coffee and chocolate trees are planted on the sides of -the hills. The Manila mango is considered one of the finest in the -world, not inferior to that which is produced near Bombay. Cocoa-nuts, -plantains, bananas, and other tropical fruits abound, and are to be -had in great perfection. Besides these oranges are also cultivated; -but they are inferior to those of China and Europe; indeed, as might -be expected, all the fruits, natives of more northern latitudes, which -we find in these islands, are far surpassed by the same kinds which -grow in climates more congenial to their nature. The vine is largely -cultivated, but it produces grapes of a very inferior quality. - -The mountainous portions of the country are for the most part in -a state of nature, being covered with trees, and with brushwood; -which in some places is so thick that I had to employ the Indians to -cut a way through it with small billhooks which they kept for the -purpose. In other parts, the tops of the tall trees form a mass so -dense, that no ray ever shines through them. The ground on the sides -of these mountains is always in a moist and slimy condition; and is -the habitation of millions of leeches. In my first excursion to the -mountains I observed the feet and legs of the Indians, who were cutting -a path for me, covered with blood, and at first I fancied that they -must have wounded themselves with the thorny shrubs which they were -cutting. On inquiry, however, I found that it was the leeches that -were doing the mischief, and in a very little time I had a good many -specimens of their powers upon my own skin. There were two species, one -a small linear one, and the other nearly round. "Whenever the former -fixed upon the Indians, they invariably pulled it off, but they never -interfered with the little round one. I found that the reason for this -was, that the latter, if taken off by force, would leave a very painful -wound; but that, if allowed to suck until it was full, it would drop -off, of its own accord, and leave scarcely a mark; the other species -might be taken off with impunity. At first, when they fixed themselves -upon me, which they did through my stockings, I set to work to pull -them off, without regard to species, although warned by the natives of -the impropriety of doing so. In a short time my legs were covered with -blood, and the wounds annoyed me with a kind of itching soreness for -several days afterwards. - -With the exception of the Orchids, the Philippines are not very rich -in plants of an ornamental kind. As far as I had an opportunity of -judging, the vegetation of Luzon bears a great resemblance to the -island of Java and the other parts of the Malay Archipelago. The -country is, however, very rich in birds and shells, and many of the -land species of the latter are extremely valuable. Mr. Cuming, who is -well known in this part of the world, made very large collections of -them, and has already distributed them over the greater part of Europe -and America. - -After spending about three weeks in the interior of Luzon and having -procured a fine supply of the beautiful _Phalænopsis_, and several -other Orchids, I returned to the town of Manila, and shipped a portion -of them to England. These, I am happy to say, arrived in excellent -order; and upon reference to the garden-lists on my return, I find that -no fewer than forty-five specimens of this lovely plant--the "Queen of -Orchids"--had been distributed amongst the Fellows of the Horticultural -Society of London. - -The time which I had allotted for this excursion having expired, I -sailed for my old station in the north of China and arrived there on -the 14th of March, 1845. On going up the coast, we had to contend with -the north-east monsoon, and "beat to windward," during the whole of the -passage. One afternoon when it was nearly dark, and when the sea was -running very high, one of the men who was out on the bowsprit lost his -hold, owing to the heaving of the vessel, and fell into the sea. The -cry of a "man over board"--that peculiar cry amongst sailors which, -once heard, can never be forgotten, made me rush on deck. The schooner -was going at the rate of at least eight knots, but her helm was -instantly put down, and her way stopped. A hand was sent aloft to keep -his eye upon the poor fellow whose head was seen every now and then as -he rose upon a wave, and in a few seconds the schooner was close at -his side. A rope was thrown out to him, and every one thought that he -would be able to lay hold, and be drawn in over the side. Probably from -exhaustion he unfortunately missed it, and the schooner shooting ahead -at the time, he was again left to the mercy of the waves. As a last -resource the boat was lowered; and although rather a dangerous service, -several gallant fellows stepped into it and pulled in the direction -signalled to them from the ship. Those on board were in a state of the -most painful suspense. When we caught a glimpse of the man from time -to time, he was evidently sinking, and in a few more seconds all must -have been over with him. The boat was nearly lost to us in the closing -darkness, and the men told us that they were on the point of returning -to the ship without getting a glimpse of their poor messmate, when they -saw his head raised above a wave close by; and pulling towards him, -they caught him by the hair, and drew him into the boat. When brought -on board he was in a most exhausted state, but the usual remedies being -applied he recovered in the course of the night. - - - - CHAP. XIX. - -SPRING IN THE NORTH OF CHINA.--NEW FLOWERS.--JOURNEY THROUGH THE -COUNTRY.--MOTLEY GROUP OF FELLOW-PASSENGERS.--A MORNING SCENE IN -A CHINESE JUNK.--TARTAR CITY OF CHAPOO.--SHOPS AND TRADE.--CROWDS -OF PEOPLE.--A VISIT TO THE MANDARINS.--A FREE PASSAGE ONWARD -OFFERED--THEIR OBJECT IN THIS.--MEANS TAKEN TO THWART THEM.--LEAVE -CHAPOO FOR SHANGHAE.--COUNTRY AND TOWN OF PING-HOO.--SILK DISTRICTS -VISITED.--CULTIVATION OF THE MULBERRY.--MANAGEMENT OF THE -SILK-WORM.--ARRIVAL AT SHANGHAE.--CONSUL'S LETTER ENCLOSING ONE FROM -THE TAOUTAE, OR HEAD MANDARIN.--A MOST SATISFACTORY REPLY! - - -It was the commencement of spring when I returned to the north of -China. In this season of the year no country can be more agreeable or -healthy than this. The air is bracing, the sky generally clear, and -the mornings are delightfully cool. Before long, vegetation progressed -with wonderful rapidity, far surpassing any thing of the kind I had -ever witnessed in England. By the middle of April, deciduous trees and -shrubs were covered with leaves, barley was in full ear, and the oil -plant (_Brassica sinensis_) was seen forming masses of golden yellow, -on the hill sides and on the plains, where the air was perfumed with -the fragrance of its blossoms. - -My object during this summer was to make a complete collection of -all my finest plants, for the purpose of taking them home under -my own care. I lost no time, therefore, in visiting all my former -acquaintances, mandarins and nurserymen--and made my selections when -the plants were in bloom. _Tree-pæonies, Azaleas, Viburnums, Daphnes, -Roses,_ and many other plants, all new to Europe, and of great beauty, -were from time to time added to this collection. As many of these -plants could be only verified by the colour of their flowers, it was -absolutely necessary that I should visit the different districts three -or four times during the spring, and consequently that I should lose -as little time as possible in travelling from one place to another. -Shanghae, Chusan, Ningpo, and many other parts of the interior, all -lying wide of each other, had some object of interest which demanded my -presence and attention. - -The distance from Ningpo to Shanghae is about a hundred miles. I had -completed my researches in the Ningpo district, and was very anxious -to get to Shanghae as soon as possible, in order to see some Azaleas -in bloom, which I was anxious to add to my collections. In another -fortnight their flowers would have been all faded, and it would then -have been impossible to identify the different varieties. There were -two routes from Ningpo to Shanghae, one for the foreigners and the -other for the natives. The _legal_ road was to go across to Chusan, -then garrisoned by the English, a distance of thirty or forty miles, -nearly due east, and then take the chance of finding some vessel about -to sail for Woosung or Shanghae. I knew that if I took this line, -in all probability I should have to wait for eight or ten days in -Chusan before such an opportunity would occur, a delay which would -have entirely defeated the object which I had in view. I determined, -therefore, to go by the interdicted route, and take my chance of -consequences. - -The journey overland was a very interesting one. When I reached the -town of Chinhae, at the mouth of the Ningpo river, I found that some -small junks were to sail that evening for Chapoo, and I lost no time in -securing a passage on board one of them. I was surprised at my success -thus far, as I had anticipated my greatest, if not my only difficulty -would have been in making a start. I found afterwards that I was -indebted for this to my Chinese servant, who happened to be a native of -Chinhae and knew the captain of the junk. He persuaded him that there -was no harm in my going by that route; and, at all events, that he -could easily land me at Chapoo, and that nobody would know how I had -come there. - -In the evening, after many delays on account of wind and tide, and also -with the view of securing more passengers and cargo, we lifted our -anchor and set sail. In crossing the bay of Hangchow, the tide runs -very rapidly, and the Chinese junks and boats never go across without a -fair or leading wind. I shall never forget the strange and motley group -of passengers who were my fellow-travellers in this little vessel. -We were all huddled together in the centre cabin, and our beds were -spread down on each side, merely leaving room for us to walk down the -middle. Some of the passengers were respectable merchants, but even -these had something filthy and disagreeable about them. Little insects -whose names sound harsh to "ears polite," were charitably supported in -great numbers amongst the warm folds of their dresses. The first thing -I did when my bed was spread down, was to surround it with my trunks, -gun-case, and another box or two, to prevent, if possible, any visiters -of this description from leaving their rightful lord and master, and -taking up their quarters with me. With all my care it was next to -impossible to keep myself apart from the Chinese, owing to the motion -of the little vessel which sometimes sent us rolling from one side to -the other. - -A great part of the night was spent by the Chinese in smoking opium -and tobacco. When morning dawned, the scene which the cabin presented -was a strange one. Nearly all the passengers were sound asleep. They -were lying in heaps, here and there, as they had been tossed and wedged -by the motion of the vessel during the night. Their features and -appearance, as seen in the twilight of a summer morning, were striking -to the eye of a foreigner. I almost fancied that I could read the -characters of the different beings who lay stretched before me. There -was the habitual opium smoker--there was no mistaking him--his looks -were pale and haggard, his breathing quick and disturbed, and so thin -was he, that his cheek bones seemed piercing the skin. Some seemed -care-worn with business, and others again apparently slept soundly with -hearts light and joyous. All had the fore part of their heads shaved, -and their tails lay about in wild confusion. - -We were now far on our way across the bay having had a fair wind and -tide during the greater part of the night, and the hills near Chapoo -were already visible on the horizon to the northward. All hands were -soon busily engaged in getting breakfast ready. A Chinese sea breakfast -consists chiefly of rice, fish, and vegetables. The proprietors of the -junk provide food for the passengers, for which they charge a small -sum from each, independent of the passage-money. If the passengers do -not choose to have breakfast, or dinner, they are not required to pay -for it. When breakfast was ended, some began to smoke opium and others -tobacco, after which most of them went to bed again and were soon fast -asleep. The Chinese when travelling do little else than eat, smoke, and -sleep. During the whole time I was travelling in the country, I never -remember seeing one Chinese engaged in reading. - -About eleven in the forenoon we came to anchor in a muddy bay abreast -of the city of Chapoo, where many of the junks are high and dry at low -water. I had my luggage put into a small sand-pan and rowed for the -shore. "You had better take off your shoes and stockings, and draw up -your trowsers," said one of the Chinese boatmen as we were getting near -the landing-place. The prudence and necessity of this advice was soon -apparent; for when the boat touched the beach, I found that I had to -walk a quarter of a mile up to the knees in mud, before I could get on -firm ground. Now came the critical part of my expedition. When I had -got through the mud, I inquired for the nearest spring and commenced -my ablutions, making no attempt to disguise myself, as I was dressed -in the common English garb. Long before I had finished washing, I -was surrounded by some hundreds of the natives, who seemed perfectly -astonished at the sight of an Englishman, although this place had -been attacked and taken during the late War. All sorts of inquiries -were made regarding me; "where had I come from?" "where was I bound -for?" "what were my objects?" and a hundred other questions were put -to me, or to those who accompanied me. All were, however, quite civil -and did not attempt to annoy me in the slightest degree. I now walked -to some hills near the city, and inspected their vegetation. On the -way I visited some temples which had been battered down by our troops -during the war, and which still remained in the same ruinous condition. -Hundreds of people followed me to the hills, the view from which is one -of the finest I ever saw in this country. Here it is that the hills -of the south end, and the wide plain of the Yang-tse-kiang commences. -On one side, looking towards the south and west, mountains are seen -towering in all their grandeur; whilst on the northern side, the eye -rests on a rich and level plain, watered by its thousand canals, and -dotted all over with towns and villages peopled with an immense number -of industrious and happy human beings. Chapoo and the country which -surrounds it may well be called the garden of China. - -After inspecting the hills, I went down into the Tartar city of Chapoo. -The suburbs are large and populous, but the walled city itself is not -very extensive. It is a square, and the circuit of the walls is not -more than three miles; they seem very old, and are surrounded by a -moat, which also serves the purpose of a canal. Here the Tartar troops -and their families reside, living entirely apart from the Chinese -inhabitants of the town. - -The streets, houses, and shops are of the same kind as those which -I have already described. Indeed, so like is one town in China to -another, that, if a traveller well acquainted with the northern cities, -was set down blindfolded in one of them, he would have the greatest -difficulty in saying whether it was Chapoo, Ningpo, or Shanghae. I -observed in the shops a considerable quantity of Japanese goods, which -are brought annually to this place by the junks which trade with Japan. - -By the time I had examined all the chief objects of interest, it was -late in the afternoon, and I began to think of leaving the city and -taking the road for Shanghae. I had already taken measures by means -of my servant to find the part of the canal from which the Shanghae -boats started, and thither proceeded with the intention of engaging a -boat. A numerous crowd had surrounded and accompanied me, during the -whole of the day; but now that I was on the eve of taking my departure, -it was greatly augmented. Every street, lane, window, and house-top -was crowded with human beings; all, however, perfectly harmless and -civil. When I reached the canal and attempted to speak with one of the -boatmen, the crowd pressed after me in such numbers, that the boat, -had I got on board, would probably have been swamped. The poor boatmen -were so frightened, that no reward which I could hold out would induce -them to give me a passage. They begged and prayed me not to enter their -boats, as some accident would happen from the number of persons whom -nothing could prevent from crowding in after me. - -I was now in a dilemma, and I scarcely knew how to get out of it. At -last I determined, much against my inclination, to go to the mandarins. -It is a bad plan to have any thing to do with Chinese officials when -it can be possibly avoided, but in this case there was no help for it; -so, having inquired for the residence of the superintendent of boats, I -set off to call upon him, followed, of course, by an immense mob. As we -were going to his house, my servant came up to me and requested that I -would not tell the mandarin that he was in my service, or that he had -any thing to do in bringing me there. As I could speak the language -sufficiently well to make myself understood, I did not need him as -an interpreter, and I was of course anxious not to bring him or his -relations into any scrape on my account. - -When we reached the mandarin's house, the doors were thrown open, and I -walked boldly into the reception-room. It was a most difficult matter -for the servants to keep out the crowd, but they accomplished the task -partly by threats, and partly by whips, which they used rather more -freely than we should approve of in England. This, however, is a common -mode of punishing the rabble in China, and when they know they deserve -it they take it very quietly. - -"Tell your master I want to see him," said I in a lofty tone to one -of the attendants, who immediately went into an inner apartment and -returned with the mandarin himself, clothed in his most imposing robes -of office,--hat, button, peacock feather, and all. I made him several -very low bows, which he most politely returned." I am in a great -hurry," said I, "to go on to Shanghae, and have been trying to engage a -boat for that purpose, but cannot succeed without your assistance. Will -you have the goodness to aid me?" After repeating after me what I had -said, as is the invariable custom in Chinese conversation, he put the -following question to me: "How old are you?" This may seem strange, but -it is considered complimentary by the Chinese, and is generally amongst -the first questions they put. I thanked him for his inquiry, told him -my age, and then asked his, and again proposed the question regarding -the boat. Upon this he promised to send one of his servants to get one, -and in the mean time invited me to take some cake and tea, which were -immediately set before me. The gun which I had with me was an object -of great curiosity to the old man, more particularly the locks and -percussion caps, which he told me he had never seen before. During the -time I was discussing the cake and tea, he asked me a multiplicity of -questions; such as, where had I come from last? who had told me there -was a road to Shanghae this way? &c. &c., some of which I answered, and -some I found it convenient not to understand. At last, through some -blunder on the part of my servant, it became known that he belonged to -me; a circumstance which was immediately communicated to the mandarin, -who sent for him and subjected him to a close and searching examination. - -While this was going on, the mandarin of the highest rank in the city -arrived, having been sent for by his brother in office to hold a -conference regarding me. These worthies, after a long consultation in -a private room, came out and informed me, in the blandest manner, that -they intended to give me a free passage across the country to Shanghae, -in a boat belonging to themselves, and that, to add more to my comfort, -they would send another boat to convey my servant and luggage. This -seemed at first sight remarkably kind; but I had been long enough in -the celestial empire to be aware of the necessity of looking narrowly -into their motives, in order to counteract any evil designs they might -think proper to hide under their assumed kindness and civility. In this -instance their motives were perfectly plain to me, and were simply -these:--According to the treaty of Nanking, if any Englishman was found -beyond the boundaries which were to have been fixed at each of the five -ports, he was liable to be seized by the authorities and brought to -the nearest British Consul, who, in these circumstances, was obliged -to impose a very heavy fine upon the transgressor; and therefore, if I -had accepted their _kind_ offers, I should have found, on my arrival at -Shanghae, that I was a prisoner instead of a guest, and should, in all -probability, have been handed over as such to the British Consul. On -the other hand, if I hired my own boat, and went unaccompanied by any -of the mandarin's people, I was perfectly safe, according to the strict -letter of the treaty, even although a complaint were lodged against me -on my arrival at Shanghae. Nothing would have been done in the matter -by the British Consul unless I had been _bonâ fide_ taken up beyond the -boundaries, which was not likely to happen; as the Chinese officials -are extremely cautious in all matters of this kind, in order to avoid -getting themselves into trouble. - -I immediately determined that I would not be outdone in politeness, -and therefore, with many bows and reiterated thanks, I told them that -I could not think of accepting so much gratuitous kindness, as I was -able to pay my own expenses; and that all I required of them was -simply permission to hire a small boat, with three or four men, which -would enable me to get on to Shanghae. They still kept on pressing -their offer upon me, which I continued as firmly to refuse. Another -long private conference between them was now held, which, I suppose, -ended in a determination to try what effect could be produced on my -servant, who was accordingly sent for. He was desired to tell me that -the distance between Chapoo and Shanghae was very great, and that the -roads were infested with bands of robbers who were sure to attack us; -and that they could not answer for the consequences unless another boat -and some of their own soldiers went along with us for protection. "Tell -them," said I, "that I have made up my mind to travel in my usual way, -and that no arguments which can be used will induce me to change my -opinion, and that the arms which I have shown them are quite sufficient -to repel the attacks of any robbers whom I may meet on the road." As -a last resource, they sent an officer and his servant to me, who said -that they were going to Shanghae, and would be extremely obliged if -I would allow them to accompany me. I was obliged to meet even this -_civil request_ with a refusal; and the mandarins, finding that they -must either use force or allow me to have my own way, finally gave up -the contest. - -A boatman now made his appearance, and announced that he was ready to -proceed to Shanghae. When I rose to take my leave, I found that all the -servants and retainers had been ordered out for the purpose of keeping -off the crowd and seeing me safely into the boat. The two mandarins -accompanied me, and we marched off to the canal in grand style. The -crowd which had assembled was immense, but they were all perfectly -quiet and civil. When we reached the landing-place, I thanked my two -friends for their kindness, and bade them adieu: then stepping into the -boat she was pushed out into the stream, and we soon left the crowd and -the Tartar city far behind us. - -The country through which we passed was perfectly level, highly -cultivated, and more richly wooded than any of the lowlands which I -had visited before. It was getting dark when we reached a town of -considerable size, named Ping-hoo, which is distant only a few miles -from Chapoo, and I determined to remain there for the night. When -the morning dawned I roused the Chinamen, and we proceeded on our -journey. We now passed through an extensive silk district, where the -mulberry-tree was the principal object of cultivation. The natives at -this time (May 18th) were busily employed in gathering the leaves and -feeding the silkworms with them. - -The mulberry-trees are all grafted, and produce very fine thick -leaves. I obtained a plant, which is now alive in England, in order -to determine the particular variety, and whether it is different from -the kinds which are used for the purpose in Europe. It is not yet, -however, in a sufficiently advanced state for this to be ascertained. -One thing, however, is certain, that the silk produced in this district -is considered as being amongst the finest in China; but whether this is -owing to the particular variety of mulberry-tree used in feeding the -worms, or to climate or soil, still remains to be ascertained. - -The trees, or rather bushes, are planted in rows, the banks of the -canals being a favourite situation; and they are not allowed to grow -more than from four to six feet in height. The natives set to work with -a pair of strong scissors, and cut all the young shoots off close by -the stump; they are then either stript of their leaves, or taken home -in bundles and stript afterwards. Before this operation takes place, -the plants seem in a high state of health, producing vigorous shoots -and fine large and thick shining leaves. After the leaves have been -taken off, the bushes look like a collection of dead stumps, and in -the middle of summer have a curious wintry appearance; but the rain, -which falls copiously, and the fertility of the soil, soon revive a -succulent plant like the mulberry. The Chinese seem very particular in -stirring up the earth amongst the roots of the bushes immediately after -the young branches and leaves have been taken off, and the plantations -appear to have great attention paid to them. - -The farms are small, and are generally worked by the family and -relatives of the farmer; who not only plant, graft, and cultivate the -mulberry, but also gather the leaves, feed the silkworms, and wind the -silk off the cocoons. - -During my progress through the silk district, I visited a great number -of cottages, where the worms were feeding. They are commonly kept in -dark rooms, fitted up with shelves placed one above another, from the -ground to the roof of the house. The worms are kept and fed in round -bamboo sieves, placed upon these shelves, so that any one of the sieves -may be taken out and examined at pleasure. The poor natives were -greatly surprised when they saw a foreigner coming amongst them, and -generally supposed that I intended to rob them of their silkworms. In -all the villages which I visited, they uniformly denied that they had -any feeding-rooms--although the leaves and stems of the mulberry about -their doors told a different tale; and they never failed to direct -me to go on to some other part of the country, where they assured me -I should find them. Before we parted, however, they generally gained -confidence, and showed me their collections of worms, as well as their -mode of managing them. - -After passing through the Hang-chow silk district, and keeping on in an -easterly direction, we reached, late in the evening, a large town named -SUNG-KIANG-FOO, which is about 30 miles to the west of Shanghae, and -stopped for the night under its ramparts. By daybreak the next morning -we were again on our road, and reached Shanghae on the afternoon of -the same day. Having taken up my abode in the house of my friend, Mr. -Mackenzie, I was surprised in going down stairs next morning to find -one of my Chapoo acquaintances--the officer already mentioned--in close -conversation with the Chinese servants; but I now cared very little -about the matter, knowing perfectly how the business must end. There -was no doubt that the whole affair had been reported to the Taoutae, or -head mandarin of Shanghae, and that he would be obliged, for his own -sake, to take some little notice of it. - -A day or two afterwards I had the honour to receive the following -letter from H. B. M. CONSUL, and a translation of a note which had been -sent to him by the Taoutae:-- - - "H. B. M. Consulate, - - "Shanghae, 21st May, 1845. - - "Sir--The annexed translation of a note received this morning from the - Taoutae is transmitted to you for an explanation, which I request may - be afforded as soon as possible. I have the honour to be, Sir, yours, - &c. - - "G. BALFOUR, - - "H. B. M. Consul for Shanghae." - -The inclosed ran as follows:-- - - "I have just heard that a merchant of your honourable nation, Fortune, - and his attendant, Linguist ye Mingchoo, were coming from Tinghae to - Shanghae, and met with a breeze at sea, when the vessel drifted to - Chapoo; that the local officers in Chekiang then protected and sent - them on along the coast, and that they are living at the Ming-le - Warehouse. I would, therefore, trouble the honourable Consul to make - inquiry of what ship he is the merchant, and let me know. This is - written wishing you daily happiness." - - "(_True Translation._) (Signed) W. H. MEDHURST, "Interpreter." - -When I perused this document I could not but admire the cunning of -the old man. He knew perfectly well that it did not contain one word -of truth: that I was not coming from Tinghae, but from Ningpo; that -I met with no breeze at sea except that which had quietly brought us -to the desired port; and, lastly, that I had not been sent along the -coast, but had had a very pleasant journey through the interior of the -country. I saw at once that the object of the good old Taoutae was to -allow me to deny the truth of his statements; and, upon the principle -that no man is bound to criminate himself, I sent the following answer -to Her Majesty's Consul, which was doubtless perfectly satisfactory to -the Taoutae, and just what he wanted:-- - - "Sir--I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of a letter from - you of yesterday's date, to which is annexed a translation of a note - you had received from the Taoutae of Shanghae, concerning which you - request an explanation may be afforded as soon as possible. In answer - to this, I beg to inform you that the circumstances noticed in the - Taoutae's letter do not apply to me, and he is, therefore, mistaken, - or has been misinformed. I have the honour to be, Sir, yours," &c. - -I need scarcely say that I heard no more of the matter, and from this I -concluded that my answer must have been considered highly satisfactory. -I arrived in Shanghae in good time to transact the business I had in -hand, and not a little pleased at having so successfully accomplished -my "overland" journey. - - - - CHAP. XX. - -SAIL FOR FOO-CHOW-FOO ON THE RIVER MIN.--NOVEL MODE OF ENGAGING -A PILOT.--ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER--SCENERY ON ITS BANKS.--BRIDGE -OF FOO-CHOW-FOO.--CHINESE CHAIRMEN.--INSULTS RECEIVED FROM THE -NATIVES--CITY AND SUBURBS.--NATIVE TRADE.--FISHING CORMORANTS.--BANK -NOTES.--CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES.--THE LADIES, AND THEIR FONDNESS FOR -FLOWERS.--POPULATION.--REMARKS ON FOO-CHOW-FOO AS A PLACE OF FOREIGN -TRADE.--GOVERNMENT SPIES.--GARDENS AND NURSERIES.--DECEIT OF THE -MANDARINS.--LEAVE FOO-CHOW-FOO FOR THE TEA HILLS.--MOUNTAIN SCENERY -DESCRIBED.--BLACK-TEA DISTRICTS.--FLORA OF THE HILLS.--AGRICULTURE OF -THE DISTRICT.--NATIVE FRUIT.--CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE. - - -When I had finished my business in Shanghae, I left that city, and -sailed for _Foo-chow-foo_, on the river Min. Foo-chow-foo is the -capital of the province of Fokien, situated in 25° 30' N. latitude, -near the celebrated Bohea hills, and about half way between Chusan and -Canton. On approaching the entrance to the Min, we anchored under the -lee of some islands named the White Dogs, for the purpose of procuring -a fisherman who could pilot the vessel into the river, as the entrance -is rather difficult for a stranger, having been until very lately but -imperfectly surveyed. Going to the shore for that purpose in the ship's -boat, we found a small fishing village inhabited by men and boys, most -of whom had a piratical and forbidding appearance. It seems that these -people only come here at certain periods of the year to fish; and when -the season is past, they move to more comfortable quarters on the -main-land. No women are ever allowed to inhabit the island. - -Having picked out the most weather-beaten man we could find, we asked -him if he knew the passage to the Min, and if he could take a vessel -in which drew three fathoms of water. He immediately answered in the -affirmative; but when we wanted him to come on board, he altered his -mind and hesitated, probably because he had not confidence in us; or, -it might be, he was frightened at the consequences, not knowing how his -conduct would be viewed by the authorities. Mr. Shaw, Captain Freeman, -and myself, now held a conference as to what was to be done. A ship and -a valuable cargo were at stake; the numerous and dangerous sand-banks -near the mouth of the river were visible; and as the man only refused -us his service through fear and ignorance, we concluded that, as -"necessity has no law," there could be no great harm in taking him -against his will. We accordingly pulled alongside his little junk, and -took him and it off to the ship, where he very soon got over all his -fears. - -The Chinese are certainly a strange and unaccountable race. Never in my -life did I witness greater apathy than was shown by this boat's crew -when we took them off to the ship. Their companions too--for there -were several boats in the little bay--scarcely even looked at us, or -manifested the least surprise, when they saw our men board the boat, -get her anchor up, and hoist her sail. - -The next morning our pilot got the ship under weigh, and took us into -the river Min by a passage not marked in our charts; he evinced the -most perfect acquaintance with the depth of water at every part, and at -last anchored us in safety abreast of a small temple, a few miles from -the mouth of the river. Before we came to the most dangerous point, -where we had to pass between two sand banks, the captain very quietly -informed him, that if he made any mistake and got the ship aground, he -should have his tail cut off--a punishment very nearly the greatest, -which can be inflicted on a Chinaman. When told, he shrugged up his -shoulders, gave a sly look, and said, "Very well; we shall see by and -by." The anchorage being reached in safety, the old man thought it was -now his time for a joke, and, turning triumphantly round with his tail -in one of his hands, exclaimed, "Now, what about the tail? is it to be -cut off, or not? or are you satisfied?" - -The passage by which we entered the river is called by the natives -the _Woo-hoo-mun_, or "the five tiger gate;" and here we saw a most -singular rock, or island, which is cleft, as it were, into five -pyramids, and is much revered by the Chinese sailor. In fact, he seems -to look upon it as representing the gods of the ocean, and he fails -not to offer up his thanks and his offerings every time he passes by -it on returning from the sea. The Chinese are often taunted with their -indifference to the religion which they profess; and yet the earnest -and devout manner in which they burn incense, and worship at their holy -places, would put to the blush many of the professors of a holier and -purer faith. - -The scenery at the mouth of the Min and towards Foo-chow-foo is -striking and beautiful. The river itself varies much in width and -depth, according to the district through which it flows. Near its -mouth, and at some parts where the country between it and the hills is -flat, it is not less than a mile in width; but at other parts, where -the mountains come almost to the water's edge, the river is narrow, -deep, and rapid. There are two or three such places between the mouth -of the Min and the city of Foo-chow-foo. The whole of this district -is hilly, many of the mountains being at least 3000 feet high; and -at this season of the year, when thunder-storms were almost of daily -occurrence, the effects produced by them amongst these mountains were -grand and sublime. - -It is evident that the Chinese greatly dreaded our visiting this place -during the war. I observed that forts had been built on all the most -commanding positions on the sides of the river; but most of them were -now without guns, and had already become dilapidated. - -The little town and fortress of _Mingan_, a few miles up the river, -is beautifully situated on a hill sloping down to the water; and the -position is so strong by nature, that, if manned with English troops, -it could defend the pass against the strongest force. - -A few miles below the city the river is blocked up, almost all the way -across, with stones and old junks, which are covered at high water. I -believe the _intended_ plan of defence was, to wreck all our vessels on -this barrier, and destroy our men by batteries erected near it! - -On the banks of the river are numerous temples, or joss houses, built -in the most romantic and beautiful situations. A fig-tree (_Ficus -nitida_)--a kind of Banyan--is a great favourite with the priests, and -is always found growing beside the temples, where its dark green leaves -and wide-spreading branches afford an agreeable shade from the fierce -rays of the sun. About nine miles below Foo-chow-foo, a pretty little -pagoda stands on an island on the left bank of the river: near this is -the anchorage for large vessels which it would not be prudent to take -up to the town. All the low hills are neatty terraced and cultivated -with sweet potatoes and earth-nuts, and on the more fertile of the -mountains cultivation is carried on at least 2500 feet above the level -of the sea. But many of the mountains are quite barren; bare rocks of -granite are showing themselves over their surface, from amongst which -springs are almost always flowing, and when the water accumulates in -the glens between the hills, it forms numerous beautiful cascades, as -it tumbles down into the Min. Some parts of the region are well wooded, -at least for China; and, viewing the scenery as a whole--the beautiful -river, winding its way between mountains, its islands, its temples, its -villages and fortresses--I think, although not the richest, it is the -most romantic and beautiful part of the country which has come under my -observation. - -The city and suburbs of Foo-chow-foo stand in an opening amongst the -hills, about twenty miles from the mouth of the Min. The river runs -through the suburbs, which are connected by the celebrated bridge -called the _Wan-show_, or "myriads of ages," which was always said to -consist of one hundred arches. It is not an arched bridge at all; but -is nevertheless a wonderful structure, being about two thousand feet in -length, and having fifty strong pillars of stone, with large slabs of -granite reaching from the one to the other, and forming the top of the -bridge. During the rains the river rushes through these divisions with -awful rapidity; and as the bridge has evidently stood for many ages, it -is a proof of the substantial manner in which it was originally built. - -Leaving the ship at the mouth of the Min, Mr. Shaw, Captain Freeman, -and myself started in a native boat to go up to the city. When we -were getting into the boat, our old friend the pilot, who by this -time had become quite at home amongst us, came and begged us to give -him a passage as far up as the first town we were to pass on our way. -We inquired why he did not go back again to his fishing at the White -Dog island. His reply was, "I should get robbed by pirates of all the -money you have given me for pilotage. I must first make sure of it by -depositing it in the hands of a friend of mine in the town: after that -is done, I shall return to the island." - -We were nearly two days in getting up to the city, owing to the -rapidity of the stream, caused by the late heavy rains. We landed -near the bridge already noticed, and immediately inquired for the -house of the English Consul, who, we were informed, lived in a -temple situated within the city, and about three miles from the -landing-place. As nearly the whole of the streets in the suburbs -were under water at the time, in some parts to the depth of four -feet, it was impossible to walk this distance; nor was it necessary -to make the attempt, for chairmen surrounded us in great numbers, -and were as determined on putting us into their chairs as a London -conductor is to have passengers for his omnibus. We willingly yielded -to their solicitations, and got into chairs and set off for the -consular residence. The people here had seen but few foreigners, and -were particularly impertinent and annoying. Hundreds followed us and -crowded round the chairs; "Quang-yanga, quang-yanga,"--their term for -foreigners--was rung in our ears from all sides, and frequently other -appellations of a much worse signification. Our Chinese servants, who -walked by our side, were attacked and reviled for having any connection -with us. In one of the streets the water was so deep that I was obliged -to stand up on the seat of the chair, and even then it reached my feet. -Here the crowd became very abusive, and commenced throwing water over -us. At first our servants bore this treatment pretty well; but their -patience was at last exhausted, and they turned upon the assailants. -The scene was now both amusing and disagreeable. Luckily I happened -to be a little in advance, and was therefore pretty well out of the -mêlé; but Captain Freeman came in for his full share of it, and was -completely soaked through. When we got within the city walls we were -not molested further, owing, I suppose, to the greater strength of the -police. - -The city is walled and fortified upon the same plan as Ningpo and -Shanghae, and is at least eight or nine miles in circumference, having -as usual east, west, north, and south gates. At various points on the -walls, as well as above the gates, guard-houses are erected, each -containing guns; some of which, according to the writings on them, -were cast about the commencement of the last war. A small area between -the south and north gates is not built upon; but the greater part of -the space within the walls is densely covered with houses. There are -two rather handsome pagodas, and some small hills on which temples are -built, and where a good view of the town and suburbs may be obtained. -On one of these hills the British Consul has his residence. - -The streets in all Chinese cities have much the same appearance: some -are a little wider than others, and have better and more attractive -shops; but by far the greater part of them are narrow and dirty, -and Foo-chow-foo certainly forms no exception to the general rule. -A large trade appears to be carried on here in copper, judging from -the number of shops tilled with manufactured articles of that metal, -particularly of gongs, of which I observed an immense number of all -sizes. This copper is brought here principally in junks from Loo-choo. -They also bring a considerable quantity of gold. Both metals are said -to be originally the exports of Japan. I went on board two of these -junks at the mouth of the Min, which were bound to Loo-choo, and were -loaded with tea-oil, which they told me they had taken in exchange -for their copper. A great quantity of iron is manufactured here, and -wire-drawing is carried on extensively. The great export trade of the -port, however, is in wood, which is floated down the Min in large -quantities, and covers many acres in the suburbs near the river side. -Hundreds of junks from Amoy, Ningpo, Chapoo, and some even from as far -north as the province of Shan-tung and the bay of Pee-che-lee, are -constantly employed in this trade. The wood is chiefly a sort of common -pine, employed in the building of houses, and it is generally cut -into lengths suited to that purpose before it is shipped. Good planks -of fine hard wood can also be had in any quantity at this place. The -wood junks are loaded with great skill, a great part of their cargo -being lashed to their sides, thus making them about three times their -ordinary width. - -Banking is carried on to a greater extent in Foo-chow-foo than in the -other towns which I have visited. Paper notes are a common medium of -exchange, in which the people have the greatest confidence, prefering -them to dollars, or "cash." Some of the notes are as low as four -hundred cash--about eighteen pence English money; others are for very -large sums. - -The people here are generally much cleaner in their habits, and -appear to be a more active race, than those in the northern towns. In -fact, they approach more nearly to the natives of Canton than to any -other, in these respects. I was much surprised to find them consuming -beef, and even milk, in considerable quantities; articles which are -never used by the inhabitants of the other districts where I have -been: indeed, everywhere else the Chinese were wont to express their -astonishment when they saw the English using such articles of food. - -The ladies of Foo-chow-foo are particularly fond of flowers--artificial -as well as natural--for the decoration of their hair. The rustic -cottage beauty employs the more large and gaudy, such as the red -Hibiscus; while the refined damsels prefer the jasmine, tuberose, and -others of that description: artificial flowers, however, are more in -use than natural ones. - -The population of Foo-chow-foo has been estimated at about half a -million; and I have no doubt that if the suburbs and numerous villages -in the vicinity be taken into account, the number is not over-stated. -Up to the time when I left China, little or nothing had been done here -in the way of trade, and I cannot help thinking that its advantages -in this respect have been greatly over-rated. It is never likely to -be a place of as great importance to England as the more northerly -port of Shanghae; and for this very simple reason--the physical nature -of the country is against it. The whole of the surrounding region is -mountainous; the rivers are rapid and in some places shallow, and are -often liable to rain-floods. There are consequently many impediments -in the way of a free transmission of goods into the interior of the -country. Foo-chow-foo was supposed to possess great advantages, owing -to its being near the Bohea or black tea district; and it was thought -at one time that it might form the great emporium for the export of -this article to Europe and America. This opinion, however, has hitherto -proved fallacious, and I believe it is now ascertained that the -black teas can be brought more readily to Shanghae or Ningpo than to -Foo-chow-foo; especially since the Bohea teas have sunk in estimation, -and other districts to the northward, having taken the place of the -Bohea hills, are now furnishing the black teas of commerce. - -In addition to all these disadvantages the natives seem a lawless -and turbulent race, having all the characteristics of those in the -Canton province, find, like them, being inveterate in their hatred of -foreigners, and full of conceit as to their own importance and power. -Several very serious disturbances have taken place at the port since it -was opened to the British. - -After paying our visit to the English Consul, we returned to the -suburbs to look out for a house where we could put up during our stay. -When we got back to the river, we found all our luggage and servants -already safely lodged in the house of a person who had been ordered -by the mandarins to lodge us and look after us. We were glad to get -in-doors from the insulting crowd, and were consequently not very -particular as to quarters. We soon found, however, that we were very -strictly watched, and that we could not move anywhere without the fact -being communicated to the mandarins. - -My first object was to find out all the gardens and nurseries in the -district. The late G. Tradescant Lay, Esq., the first consul here, -who took a great interest in botanical pursuits, had unfortunately -left this place for Amoy. All was, therefore, up-hill work, as it used -to be in the more northern towns when I first visited them. After a -great deal of exertion and annoyance, I found out a number of gardens -and nurseries, both in the town and in the surrounding country; and -obtained a few new plants. - -The valley of the Min was still flooded in many parts, and travelling -over it was a very serious matter. One morning I started for a place -at a considerable distance in the country, accompanied by a guide and -a Coolie. I took the Coolie that he might carry me over those low -flats which were known to be still flooded. We got on pretty well for -some time; but the tide beginning to rise, I soon found that I must -either retrace my steps or make up my mind to disregard the water, as -the whole of the paths in our route were flooded. Unwilling to return, -I went on, often wading up to my middle; the same thing occurred -during several successive days, and this under a burning sun, with a -temperature of at least 95° Fahr. in the shade. Few constitutions could -stand this with impunity; and I suffered severely for it afterwards. - -I was now anxious to proceed further into the country, particularly -into the hilly black tea district; but the mandarins, who were informed -of all my movements by their spies, did every thing in their power to -dissuade me from making the attempt. They told the Consul, and induced -him to believe them, that their only reason for wishing to prevent my -going into the interior was, that the natives were in a state which -made it unsafe for a foreigner to trust himself amongst them: that by -and by they would communicate with the magistrates in the district to -which I wanted to go, and that after this was done I might proceed with -safety. But I had had too much to do with the Chinese authorities in -various parts of the country to place any reliance in what they said, -more particularly when I knew that they had some end to gain. In the -present instance, their object was to procrastinate matters from day to -day until I should be obliged to leave the district. When the Chinese -have an end to gain, the only question with them is, whether they are -most likely to succeed by telling the truth or telling lies; either -method is resorted to as may best suit their purpose, with a slight -preference, perhaps, for the latter. - -When they found that, notwithstanding all their descriptions of the -fierce and hostile disposition of the people, I was still determined to -go, they declared that no tea was grown in this district; being fully -persuaded that an Englishman could have no other object in exploring -the country than to see the cultivation of his favourite beverage. -Indeed, every Chinaman firmly believes we could not continue to exist -as a nation were it not for the productions of the celestial empire. It -has been stated that his celestial majesty the Emperor himself, during -the war, recommended his subjects to use every means in their power -to prevent the English from getting tea and rhubarb--the one being -what they lived upon, and the other their medicine, without which, his -majesty said, they could not continue to exist for any length of time; -and consequently would be more easily conquered in this way than by the -sword. - -I told the mandarins that I did not care whether there were tea farms -on these hills or not; but that, to cut the matter short, I was -determined to go and see. - -Accordingly, on the following morning I started early, taking the road -for the tea hills. The flat country through which I passed, between -the north side of the city and the mountains, is chiefly cultivated -with rice, sugar-cane, ginger, and tobacco. On the sides of the little -hills, and also for a considerable distance up the loftier ranges, -large quantities of sweet potatoes and earth-nuts are grown during the -summer season; but as we ascend, the mountains become more rugged, -cultivation ceases, and plants indigenous to the country alone show -themselves. On my journey over these mountains I came to the conclusion -that their native flora was of an intermediate character between those -of the southern and northern provinces--the tropical species of the -south being found in the low lands, and the species of more northern -latitudes inhabiting the mountains 2000 or 3000 feet above the level of -the sea. In the low valleys the _Ficus nitida_ attains a large size, -and is a great favourite with the inhabitants. It is always seen near -villages and temples. - -After toiling up one of the celebrated mountain passes, which is paved -all the way, and has a house of refreshment about half way up, I -reached the summit of the mountain--the highest land in this part of -China. A glorious prospect was spread before me: the valley of the Min -stretching far across to the other hills; the city of Foo-chow-foo, -with its pagodas, temples, and watchtowers standing in the centre of -the plain; and the broad river winding smoothly along in its course to -the sea; mountain towering above mountain, and the whole striking the -mind with wonder and admiration. - -Among these mountains, and at a height of 2000 and 3000 feet above -the level of the sea, I found the black tea district, which I was -anxious to see, and the existence of which had been denied by my -affectionate friends the mandarins. Having been in several green tea -countries further north, I was desirous to ascertain clearly whether -the plant was the same species in both places, or whether, as generally -believed, they were different. I have stated in a former chapter that -the tea-plant of the northern green tea districts is the true _Thea -viridis_ of botanists. I was now fortunate enough not only to find an -extensive tea district, but also to be present when the natives were -picking and preparing the leaves; and I not only procured specimens for -my herbarium, but also a living plant, which I afterwards took to the -green tea hills of the north, and found, on minute comparison, that it -was identical with the _Thea viridis_. In other words, the black and -green teas which generally come to England from the northern provinces -of China are made from the same species, and the difference of colour, -flavour, &c. is solely the result of the different modes of preparation. - -In this region I met with no plants which I had not seen before -in other parts of the country. I observed the lance-leaved pine -(_Cunninghamia lanceolata_) in great abundance; indeed, this species -and the more common _Pinus sinensis_ are almost the only trees of any -size which grow in this mountainous district. The natives amongst -these hills were much surprised at the sight of a foreigner, and came -crowding from all quarters to see me; they were, however, much more -civil and respectful than their countrymen in the lowlands and at -Foo-chow-foo. - -On my return from this excursion, I devoted most of my time to the -examination of nurseries in the vicinity of the city. They contained -some interesting plants. The celebrated _Fingered-Citron_, so common -in the shops throughout China, seems to be cultivated in great -perfection in this part of the country; in fact, it appears to be its -natural locality. The district round Foo-chow-foo seems to be the -great Camellia garden of China, and in no other part of the country -did I ever see these plants in such perfect health, or so beautifully -cultivated. The _Ixoras_ and _Hydrangeas_ are also particularly well -grown and handsome, the latter invariably producing flowers of the -deepest blue, much deeper than I have ever seen them in England. They -are grown in a fine rich loam, which contains some chemical ingredient, -and which is the cause of their deep colour. - -Here, as well as further north, the farmer grows crops of wheat and -green vegetables during the winter months. A great part of the low -country, at least all that is capable of being flooded, is cultivated -with rice during the summer and autumn. The first crop is ripe in July, -and the second is planted between the rows of the former, in the same -manner as in the northern provinces, and ripens in the autumn. Large -quantities of tobacco are grown in the province. The farmers cultivate -this plant with very great care, and take every means to have the -leaves large and fine. For this purpose all the flowers are regularly -picked off, and also all the small and useless leaves as soon as they -are formed. Sugar and ginger are likewise grown to a greater extent in -this part of China than in any other with which I am acquainted; and -crops of sweet potatoes and earth-nuts abound on the sides of the hills. - -Amongst fruits, the plums are good, but inferior to what we have in -England; the peaches are curiously formed, but worthless. What may be -more properly called Chinese fruits, such as leechees, longans, and -wangpees, are, however, excellent, the climate suiting them admirably. -When I was here (in July), the leechee trees were covered with their -fine red fruit, and were very beautiful, the fruit contrasted so -well with the deep clear green foliage. Large quantities of oranges, -citrons, and pumeloes are also found in the district of the Min; but -none of them were ripe at this season. I saw, for the first time, -the tree commonly called the Chinese olive (_Canarium_), from the -resemblance its fruit bears to the olive of Europe; also the Chinese -date (_Zizyphus_), which produces a fruit not unlike the date imported -into England. - -In the fields in the vicinity of Foo-chow-foo, large quantities of the -sweet-scented _Jasminum Sambac_ are cultivated. It is used to decorate -the hair of the ladies, and to garnish the tables of the wealthy. I -believe that all the gardens, both in the north and south, are supplied -with this favourite flower from the province of Fokien. Various other -shrubs, such as _Murraya exotica, Aglaia odorata,_ and _Chloranthus -inconspicuus_, are grown for their blossoms, which are used for mixing -with the tea. - -The temperature of Foo-chow-foo appears to be intermediate between that -of Hong-kong in the south, and Shanghae in the north. In June, and in -the beginning of July, the thermometer ranged from 85° to 95° Fahr., -and about the middle of the latter month it rose to 100°, which I -believe it seldom exceeds. The following table was kept by the late Mr. -G. Tradescant Lay:-- - - +-------------------+------+------+ - | | | | - | 1844. | Max. | Min. | - | | | | - +-------------------+------+------+ - | | ° | ° | - | August . . . . . | 96 | 82 | - | September . . . | 90 | 82 | - | October . . . . | 86 | 71 | - | November . . . . | 78 | 65 | - | December . . . . | 75 | 44 | - | | | | - | 1845. | | | - | | | | - | January . . . . | 72 | 44 | - | | | | - +-------------------+------+------+ - -The weather is generally unsettled and wet about the time the summer -monsoon changes, that is, from April to June, and the district is -visited by heavy thunder-storms in July and part of August. Towards the -end of August, in September, and in the beginning of October, it is -generally very dry. The monsoon now changes again to the north-east, -and the weather becomes variable and continues so during the winter -months. - -During my stay here I received a great deal of kindness from Mr. -Walker, of H. M. Consulate. The natives continued to the last -troublesome and annoying; and I was very glad when my labours in the -district were ended. - -[Illustration: Pagoda Island, on the River Min.] - - - - CHAP. XXI. - -ENGAGE A PASSAGE IN A JUNK.--LEAVE THE DISTRICT OF THE MIN.--AN -ATTACK OF FEVER.--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES ON BOARD THE JUNK.--ATTACKED -BY PIRATES.--SCENE ON BOARD.--COWARDICE OF THE CHINESE.--PIRATES -BEAT OFF.--GRATITUDE OF THE CREW.--A SAFE ANCHORAGE!--ANOTHER FLEET -OF PIRATES.--ATTACK AND RESULTS.--ARRIVE AT CHUSAN.--INGRATITUDE OF -THE CREW.--MODE OF MAKING THEM KEEP THEIR WORD.--KINDNESS OF FOREIGN -RESIDENTS AT SHANGHAE.--LARGE PEACHES.--COLLECTIONS PACKED.--LEAVE THE -NORTH OF CHINA.--SAIL FOR ENGLAND.--ARRIVAL IN THE THAMES.--CONCLUSION. - - -At the time when I visited _Foo-chow-foo_, although it was open to the -English as a place of trade and had a British Consul, it was little -known in a mercantile point of view. The entrance to the river Min was -described as extremely difficult and dangerous, and, consequently, few -foreign vessels ventured to touch at this port. When, therefore, my -botanical researches were completed, and I was ready to return north -to Shanghae, I was obliged to apply for a passage in a Chinese junk, a -whole fleet of which were to sail in a few days for Ningpo and Chapoo. -Knowing the dislike and jealousy which most of the natives manifest -towards foreigners, I had some doubt whether I should be able to induce -them to take me as a passenger, and, in that event, I had determined -to go down to the mouth of the river, and, "_sans cérémonie,_" get -on board, whether they consented or not. I was, therefore, agreeably -surprised, when, on sending my servant to make inquiries as to the -time when they were likely to sail, he returned, bringing with him the -captain and some of the sailors, who were all not only willing, but -most anxious, that I should go with them. - -The principal part of the cargo carried by the Ningpo and Chapoo junks -is wood. This is stowed on deck, and also lashed firmly to the gunwales -and sides with large ropes of bamboo which are of great strength. -Several hundreds of these vessels may be seen loading at the port of -Foo-chow-foo, particularly in the summer season, when the monsoon is -fair for their voyage home. The mandarins are extremely jealous of so -large a fleet, and will not allow them to carry guns, even for their -own defence; evidently fearing that some day or other these might be -turned against the government. The consequence of this regulation is, -that these poor sailors and all they possess on board often fall an -easy prey to the pirates who abound all along this coast. - -When the cargo was completed, the captain of the junk came to inform me -that he was ready to start, and requested me to come on board. Whilst -I was packing up my luggage, he began to examine my fire-arms very -minutely, and said to me, "I hope your gun is a good one, and that you -have plenty of powder and shot?" "What is your reason for putting this -question?" said I: "I am sure we shall have nothing to shoot in our -voyage up the coast." "Oh yes, you will," answered he; "we are very -likely to be attacked by the _Jan-dous_, who swarm outside amongst -the islands." "Who are the _Jan-dous?_" said I, to my servant, never -having heard the name before. "Oh! they are pirates," said he, "and we -are all very much frightened at them." "Nonsense!" I exclaimed: "no -pirates will attack us; and if they do, they will repent it." At this -time I had no idea that the coast was so infested with these lawless -characters, and I put it all down to the cowardice of my informants. - -As soon as I got on board, we hove up the anchor and dropped down to -the mouth of the Min. We here found a large fleet of junks--about -one hundred and seventy sail--all, like ourselves, loaded with wood, -and ready to start for the northern parts of Ningpo and Chapoo. That -evening a meeting of the captains was held on board of our vessel, and -a deputation appointed to wait upon the mandarins to request them to -send a convoy of war junks to protect the fleet from the pirates. These -negotiations were carried on for several days; but the demands of the -mandarins were so exorbitant, that the junk people would not comply -with them, and it was at last determined to sail without the convoy. -Just as they came to this decision, the wind changed and blew a gale -from the north for three days, when it veered round to the south, and -blew nearly as strong from that quarter, and for the same space of -time. These vessels never go to sea in stormy weather, even if the wind -is fair; and, what with gales of wind and negotiations with mandarins, -I was obliged to content myself with a junk life for a fortnight at the -mouth of the river. - -As long as I enjoyed health I got on well enough; but the exposure -during the past summer, particularly at Foo-chow-foo, had gradually -undermined my constitution; and the fever, which was probably kept off -for a certain time by bodily exertion, now seized me, and compelled -me to take to my cot, where I lay for a number of days insensible at -intervals. At times, when consciousness returned, I certainly thought -that my travels were drawing to a close, and that my grave would be a -lonely one on the banks of the Min. It seemed hard for me to die in a -land of strangers, without a friend or countryman to close my eyes, or -follow me to my last resting-place; and home, friends, and country, how -doubly dear did they seem to me then! - -The wind having been fair for several days, and the weather appearing -settled, the captain of the junk came down to the place where I lay, -and told me they intended to sail on the following morning. He again -inquired if I had my gun and pistols in proper order, and plenty of -powder and ball. Still imagining that they were exaggerating the -dangers of the voyage, I laughed, and said, "Do not be afraid; I have -every thing in order, and I will undertake to beat off any pirates -who may attack us." Nevertheless, I clearly saw that both captain and -sailors were really uneasy about the voyage, and would have been very -glad of another gale to afford a pretext for deferring it a little -longer. They had, however, no further excuse for delay, and it was -settled that the whole fleet should sail early the next day. - -The Chinese sailor never goes to sea without first presenting an -offering to the gods to propitiate them, in order that the voyage may -be a speedy and successful one. Accordingly, on this day the cabin -of our junk was set in order, and the tables covered with dishes of -pork, mutton, fruits, and vegetables. Candles and incense were burned -upon the tables for a short time, and the whole business had something -solemn and imposing about it. The cook, who seemed to be the high -priest, conducted all the ceremonies. On other days, as well as this, -it was part of his duty to light the candles in the little temple where -the gods were kept, as well as to burn incense and prostrate himself -before them. - -Early on the following morning, the whole fleet was in motion, starting -altogether for the sake of mutual protection. The wind and tide were -both fair, and we proceeded along the coast with great rapidity, and -were soon out of sight of the Min and its beautiful and romantic -scenery. The plan of mutual protection soon seemed to be abandoned, and -the vessels separated into threes and fours, each getting on as well -and as fast as it could. About four o'clock in the afternoon, and when -we were some, fifty or sixty miles from the Min, the captain and pilot -came hurriedly down to my cabin and informed me that they saw a number -of _Jan-dous_, right ahead, lying in wait for us. I ridiculed the idea, -and told them that they imagined every junk they saw to be a pirate; -but they still maintained that they were so, and I therefore considered -it prudent to be prepared for the worst. I got out of bed, ill and -feverish as I was, and carefully examined my fire-arms, clearing the -nipples of my gun and pistols and putting on fresh caps. I also rammed -down a ball upon the top of each charge of shot in my gun, put a pistol -in each side-pocket, and patiently waited for the result. By the aid of -a small pocket-telescope, I could see as the nearest junk approached -that her deck was crowded with men; I then had no longer any doubts -regarding her intentions. The pilot, an intelligent old man, now came -up to me, and said that he thought resistance was of no use; I might -manage to beat off one junk, or even two, but that I had no chance -with five of them. Being at that time in no mood to take advice or be -dictated to by any one, I ordered him off to look after his own duty. -I knew perfectly well, that if we were taken by the pirates I had not -the slightest chance of escape; for the first thing they would do would -be to knock me on the head and throw me overboard, as they would deem -it dangerous to themselves were I to get away. At the same time I must -confess I had little hopes of being able to beat off such a number, and -devoutly wished myself anywhere rather than where I was. - -The scene around me was a strange one. The captain, pilot, and one or -two native passengers were taking up the boards of the cabin-floor, -and putting their money and other valuables out of sight amongst the -ballast. The common sailors, too, had their copper cash, or "_tsien_" -to hide; and the whole place was in a state of bustle and confusion. -When all their more valuable property was hidden, they began to make -some preparations for defence. Baskets of small stones were brought -up from the hold, and emptied out on the most convenient parts of -the deck, and were intended to be used instead of fire-arms when the -pirates came to close quarters. This is a common mode of defence in -various parts of China, and is effectual enough when the enemy has only -similar weapons to bring against them; but on the coast of Fokien, -where we were now, all the pirate junks carried guns, and consequently -a whole deck-load of stones could be of very little use against them. - -During the general bustle I missed my own servant for a short time. -When he returned to me, he had made such a change in his appearance -that I did not recognise him. He was literally clothed in rags, which -he had borrowed from the sailors, all of whom had also put on their -very worst clothes. When I asked him the reason of this change in -his outward man, he told me that the pirates only made those persons -prisoners who had money, and were likely to pay handsomely for their -ransom; and that they would not think it worth their while to lay hold -of a man in rags. - -I was surrounded by several of the crew, who might well be called -"Job's comforters," some suggesting one thing, and some another; and -many proposed that we should bring the junk round and run back to the -Min. The nearest pirate was now within 200 or 300 yards of us, and, -putting her helm down, gave us a broadside from her guns. All was now -dismay and consternation on board our junk, and every man ran below -except two who were at the helm. I expected every moment that these -also would leave their post; and then we should have been an easy prey -to the pirates. "My gun is nearer you than those of the _Jan-dous_," -said I to the two men; "and if you move from the helm, depend upon it -I will shoot you." The poor fellows looked very uncomfortable, but I -suppose thought they had better stand the fire of the pirates than -mine, and kept at their post. Large boards, heaps of old clothes, mats, -and things of that sort which were at hand, were thrown up to protect -us from the shot; and as we had every stitch of sail set, and a fair -wind, we were going through the water at the rate of seven or eight -miles an hour. - -The shot from the pirates fell considerably short of us, and I was -therefore enabled to form an opinion of the range and power of their -guns, which was of some use to me. Assistance from our cowardly crew -was quite out of the question, for there was not a man amongst them -brave enough to use the stones which had been brought on deck; and -which, perhaps, might have been of some little use when the pirates -came nearer. The fair wind and all the press of sail which we had -crowded on the junk proved of no use; for our pursuers, who had much -faster-sailing vessels, were gaining rapidly upon us. Again the -nearest pirate fired upon us. The shot this time fell just under -our stem. I still remained quiet, as I had determined not to fire a -single shot until I was quite certain my gun would take effect. The -third broadside, which followed this, came whizzing over our heads and -through the sails, without, however, wounding either the men at the -helm or myself. - -The pirates now seemed quite sure of their prize, and came down upon us -hooting and yelling like demons, at the same time loading their guns, -and evidently determined not to spare their shot. This was a moment of -intense interest. The plan which I had formed from the first was now -about to be put to the proof; and if the pirates were not the cowards -which I believed them to be, nothing could save us from falling into -their hands. Their fearful yells seem to be ringing in my ears even -now, after this lapse of time, and when I am on the other side of the -globe. - -The nearest junk was now within thirty yards of ours; their guns were -now loaded, and I knew that the next discharge would completely rake -our decks. "Now," said I to our helmsmen, "keep your eyes fixed on -me, and the moment you see me fall flat on the deck you must do the -same, or you will be shot." I knew that the pirate, who was now on our -stern, could not bring his guns to bear upon us without putting his -helm down and bringing his gangway at right angles with our stern, as -his guns were fired from the gangway. I therefore kept a sharp eye upon -his helmsman, and the moment I saw him putting the helm down I ordered -our steersmen to fall flat on their faces behind some wood, and at the -same moment did so myself. We had scarcely done so, when bang! bang! -went their guns, and the shot came whizzing close over us, splintering -the wood about us in all directions. Fortunately none of us were -struck. "Now, mandarin, now! they are quite close enough," cried out my -companions, who did not wish to have another broadside like the last. -I, being of the same opinion, raised myself above the high stern of our -junk; and while the pirates were not more than twenty yards from us, -hooting and yelling, I raked their decks fore and aft, with shot and -ball from my double-barrelled gun. - -Had a thunder-bolt fallen amongst them, they could not have been more -surprised. Doubtless, many were wounded, and probably some killed. At -all events, the whole of the crew, not fewer than forty or fifty men, -who, a moment before, crowded the deck, disappeared in a marvellous -manner; sheltering themselves behind the bulwarks, or lying flat on -their faces. They were so completely taken by surprise, that their junk -was left without a helmsman; her sails flapped in the wind; and, as we -were still carrying all sail and keeping on our right course, they were -soon left a considerable way astern. - -Another was now bearing down upon us as boldly as his companion -had done, and commenced firing in the same manner. Having been so -successful with the first, I determined to follow the same plan with -this one, and to pay no attention to his firing until he should come -to close quarters. The plot now began to thicken; for the first junk -had gathered way again, and was following in our wake, although keeping -at a respectful distance; and three others, although still further -distant, were making for the scene of action as fast as they could. In -the mean time, the second was almost alongside, and continued giving -us a broadside now and then with their guns. Watching their helm as -before, we sheltered ourselves as well as we could; at the same time, -my poor fellows who were steering kept begging and praying that I would -fire into our pursuers as soon as possible, or we should be all killed. -As soon as they came within twenty or thirty yards of us, I gave them -the contents of both barrels, raking their decks as before. This time -the helmsman fell, and doubtless several others were wounded. In a -minute or two I could see nothing but boards and shields, which were -held up by the pirates to protect themselves from my firing; their junk -went up into the wind for want of a helmsman, and was soon left some -distance behind us. - -While I was watching this vessel, our men called out to me that there -was another close on our lee-bow, which I had not observed on account -of our main-sail. Luckily, however, it proved to be a Ningpo wood junk -like ourselves, which the pirates had taken a short time before, but -which, although manned by these rascals, could do us no harm, having no -guns. The poor Ningpo crew, whom I could plainly see on board, seemed -to be very much down-hearted and frightened. I was afterwards informed -that, when a junk is captured, all the principal people, such as the -captain, pilot, and passengers, are taken out of her, and a number of -the pirates go on board and take her into some of their dens amongst -the islands, and keep her there until a heavy ransom is paid, both for -the junk and the people. Sometimes, when a ransom cannot be obtained, -the masts and spars and every thing else which is of any value are -taken out of her, and she is set on fire. - -Two other piratical junks which had been following in our wake for some -time, when they saw what had happened, would not venture any nearer; -and at last, much to my satisfaction, the whole set of them bore away. - -Now was the time for my heroical companions to come from their -hiding-place, which they did with great alacrity, hooting and yelling -as the pirates had done before, and, in derision, calling on them to -come back and renew the fight. The stones, too, were now boldly seized -and thrown after the retreating junks, reaching to almost a tenth part -of the distance; and a stranger who had not seen these gentry before -would have supposed them the bravest men in existence. Fortunately the -pirates did not think proper to accept the challenge. - -With the captain, pilot, crew, and passengers, I was now one of the -greatest and best of men in existence. They actually came and knelt -before me, as to some superior being, and expressed their deep and -lasting gratitude, which, however, did not last long. The sun was now -setting, in all his glory, behind the hills of Fokien, and many of the -more devout amongst the passengers and crew did not fail to bow low -in adoration and thankfulness to this supposed deity for their escape -out of the hands of the pirates. Shortly after nightfall we arrived at -one of the safe anchorages, where the mandarins are too strong for the -lawless bands which infest the other parts of the coast. - -On the following morning we again got under weigh, and proceeded the -whole day without molestation. In the evening we arrived at another -safe anchorage, or place of rendezvous; but the security at this place -consisted in the number and strength of the junks actually at anchor -there, and not in the fear which the pirates entertained for the -government. When we reached this place the night was fine, and, as it -was nearly full moon, it was almost as light as clay. The tide too was -just turning in our favour; and as I was most anxious to proceed on our -voyage, I did every thing in my power to induce them to go on. It was -of no use, however; for as soon as we reached the anchorage, and found -a large fleet of junks, the anchor was dropped, and they determined -to stay there all night. I felt very much annoyed, but saw it was no -use to grumble, and went quietly to bed. In less than an hour from -this time, and before I had fallen asleep, hearing a stir upon deck, -I inquired what was the cause, and found that we were getting under -weigh. This was agreeable news; but as I could not imagine what had -caused them to change their minds so soon, I went upon deck to see what -was going on. Our people, it appeared, had gone to sleep the moment our -anchor was down; shortly after this, the other junks, which, it turned -out, were only waiting for the rise of the tide to enter some river in -the vicinity, had all weighed anchor and gone off. All on board were -now in great consternation, lest the pirates should come down upon us -whilst at anchor, and no time was lost in getting it up and proceeding -on our voyage, much, of course, to my satisfaction. - -On the following day, late in the afternoon, when I was laid up in my -bed with fever, the captain came hurriedly down, and informed me that -another fleet of pirates were in sight, and evidently lying in wait -for us. I was obliged to get up, ill as I was; and when I got on deck -I could see, by the aid of my telescope, six junks coming out from -amongst the islands under the main land, and evidently bearing down -towards us. This time I was not so sceptical as the last. After having -once seen these rascally vessels, there was no mistaking others of the -same class, as they came sneaking out of the bays. Their clipper-built -hulls, the cut of their sails, their raking masts, and the crowd of -fellows who lined their decks, all told the business they were after. -It was therefore evident that we must prepare for another encounter. - -It now struck me that perhaps I might be able to deceive the pirates -with regard to our strength, as I was afraid that I might not again -be so successful with them, particularly if they found out that there -was only one foreigner on board: knowing that they have a great dread -of foreigners and their guns, my object was to make them believe that -there were a number of us, and that we were well armed. For this -purpose I got up all the spare clothes I had, and put them on the least -Chinese-looking Chinamen on board. At the same time I desired them to -collect all the short levers which they use for hoisting their sails, -and which at a distance would look not unlike fire-arms, particularly -if the deception was assisted by the report of a double-barreled gun. -Every thing looked promising, and I thought my recruits were likely to -be of some service to me; but when the nearest pirate, who had been -coming fast down upon us, gave us a broadside, it was too much for my -Chinamen, who were instantly panic-struck, threw down their arms, and -ran below; and, added to this, I had again to threaten the men at the -helm, who seemed half inclined to follow the example of the others: so -I now prepared for the worst. - -The pirates came on, firing at intervals as the others had done, and -I followed my former plan of watching their movements until they were -near enough for my gun to tell upon them with fearful precision. Their -shot was now flying about our ears and riddling our sails, and they -came on in their usual noisy manner, perfectly unconscious of what I -had in store for their reception. For the last time the helm of the -nearest junk was put down, when we instantly fell flat on our faces and -allowed the shot to pass over us. As soon as their last gun was fired, -and before they had time to load again, I poured the contents of my -gun amongst them fore and aft, raking the deck as I had done before. -This took them completely by surprise; and as we were still under a -heavy press of sail, we were soon a considerable way ahead of them. -Two others of the fleet came up and fired some shots at us; but the -whole of them evidently imagined that a number of foreigners were on -board of our junk, a belief which doubtless had a great deal to do with -the success which attended my efforts. At length, darkness coming on, -they gave up the pursuit and bore away from us, and in two hours more -we arrived at a safe anchorage. The fever, which I had scarcely felt -during all this excitement, now returned with greater violence, and I -was heartily glad to go below and turn into my bed. - -During the night I heard a great noise on board, but was too feverish -and weak to make any inquiries as to the cause. In the morning my -servant informed me that it was occasioned by the arrival of three -junks during the night, which had been chased to the entrance of the -harbour by the pirates; there had, he said, originally been four in -company, but one of them had been taken. - -The sailors on board these junks had not been so fortunate as we had -been, for several of them were severely wounded, and I was now asked to -extract the balls. The wounds were large and ragged, owing to the iron -shot which the Chinese use in their guns. I advised the wounded men to -hurry on to Chusan, where they would get good medical advice. - -Up to nine o'clock in the morning, although the wind and tide were -both favourable, there were no signs of the junks getting under weigh; -I therefore sent for the captain, and inquired if it was not his -intention to proceed. He told me that he had had a meeting with the -captains of the other vessels, and that they had determined to get a -convoy of war junks from the mandarin before they went on. Being now -within eighty or ninety miles of Chusan, I could easily hire a small -boat for that distance, and therefore said to the captain, "Very well, -then I shall leave you here, as I am very unwell, and anxious to get -to Chusan as soon as possible." "Go," said I, turning to my servant, -"and engage a boat to take me on to Chusan, and bring it here as soon -as you can." When he was about to leave the vessel, several of the crew -gathered round him and attempted to persuade him not to go. Anxious -to serve his countrymen, although at my expense, he loitered about -for a little while, and then came back and informed me that it was no -use going on shore, as I should not be able to engage a boat to take -me so far. As I had been informed, by one of the shore people who had -come on board, that plenty of boats were to be had on hire, I felt -annoyed at his deceit, and threatened to punish him if he did not start -immediately and bring a boat off. When he saw that I was determined, -he turned sulkily away, jumped into a sand-pan, and procured a boat -without the slightest difficulty. The captain and crew now crowded -round me, begging me not to leave them, and offering to get up their -anchor and proceed at once. Although my destination was Chusan, I had -taken my passage for Ningpo, as all the wood junks were bound either -for that port or Chapoo. On their now begging me to stay, I told them -that unless they would sail into Chusan harbour and leave me there as -they passed, I would proceed in the small boat, as I was anxious to -get there as soon as possible, in order to obtain medicine and advice. -"Oh," said they, "if you will only go with us, we will run into Chusan -harbour and leave you there before we cross over to Ningpo." Upon this -assurance I agreed to accompany them. - -The captains of the other junks now came to me and asked me if I would -undertake to protect them all from the attacks of the pirates; as, if -so, they would get under weigh and go with us also. Upon my telling -them that I could not undertake to do this, they told me that they -must wait until some arrangement could be made with the mandarins, -as they were afraid to proceed alone. We therefore left them at -anchor, and proceeded on our voyage. During the day we frequently saw -suspicious-looking craft, which were pronounced by the crew to be -_Jan-dous_; but none of them were near enough to attack us. Late in the -afternoon, as we approached Keto-point--a promontory of the main-land -near Chusan--we met a large fleet of merchant junks sailing together -for mutual protection on their way down. Some of them came alongside -us, and made anxious inquiries regarding the _Jan-dous_, and how many -of them they might expect to meet with. Our people did not fail to give -them an exaggerated account of the number we had seen and fought with, -and the news did not appear greatly to delight them. During the night -the tide turned against us; and as the wind, although fair, was light, -we were obliged to anchor until morning. - -When I went on deck at daylight the following morning, I found we were -just under Keto-point, and only a few miles from Chusan harbour. The -land was well known to me, having been frequently there before. It was -the most welcome sight which had met my eyes for many a long day; and I -was thankful indeed to the Almighty for my escape from the pirates. - -Whilst the men were heaving up the anchor, my old friends the -captain and pilot came below, bolder and in much better spirits than -heretofore, and informed me, with the greatest coolness, that they had -changed their minds about going into the harbour of Chusan; and that -I must go over with them to Ningpo, from whence I could easily return -in a small boat for Chusan. I felt very much nettled at this conduct, -which, considering that I had saved their junk from being taken by the -pirates on two different occasions, was most ungrateful. I reproached -them with this ingratitude, telling them that, as they were now safe -from the _Jan-dous_, they imagined that they could do with me just as -they pleased. "But you never deceived yourselves more," added I: "you -may show as much ingratitude as you please; but I shall take care that -you fulfil the promise you made to me yesterday, and take me into the -harbour of Chusan before you go over to Ningpo. Look here: you see this -gun and these pistols; they are all loaded: you know what effects they -produced upon the _Jan-dous_; take care they are not turned against -yourselves. Englishmen never allow promises which have been made to -them to be broken with impunity. I know the way into Chusan harbour -as well as you do, and when the anchor is up I shall stand at the -helm; and if the pilot attempts to steer for Ningpo, he must take the -consequence." This threat had the desired effect; and the trembling -varlets landed me safely at Chusan in the course of the forenoon. - -What with the fever and the excitement of the last few days, I was in -a most deplorable condition when I reached Chusan; but as the greater -part of my collections were in the country near Shanghae, I was most -anxious to ascertain in what state they were; and, finding an English -vessel about to sail for the Yang-tse-Kiang, I immediately crawled on -board, and, having a fair wind, we soon reached our destination. I -was kindly received by my friend Mr. Mackenzie, and under the skilful -treatment of Dr. Kirk, the fever gradually left me. - -Amongst the more important of the acquisitions which I made in the -vicinity of Shanghae, I must not forget to mention a fine and large -variety of peach, which comes into the markets there about the middle -of August, and remains in perfection for about ten days. It is grown -in the peach orchards, a few miles to the south of the city; and it is -quite a usual thing to see peaches of this variety eleven inches in -circumference and twelve ounces in weight. This is, probably, what some -writers call the Peking peach, about which such exaggerated stories -have been told. Trees of the Shanghae variety are now in the garden of -the Horticultural Society of London. - -The whole of my plants from the districts of Foo-chow-foo, Chusan, and -Ningpo, being brought together at Shanghae, I got them packed, and, on -the 10th of October, left the north of China for Hong-kong and ENGLAND. -As I went down the river, I could not but look around me with pride and -satisfaction; for in this part of the country I had found the finest -plants in my collections. It is only the patient botanical collector, -the object of whose unintermitted labour is the introduction of the -more valuable trees and shrubs of other countries into his own, who can -appreciate what I then felt. - -When we arrived at Hong-kong, I divided my collections, and despatched -eight glazed cases of living plants for England: the duplicates of -these and many others I reserved to take home under my own care. I then -went up to Canton, and took my passage for London in the ship "John -Cooper." Eighteen glazed cases, filled with the most beautiful plants -of northern China, were placed upon the poop of the ship, and we sailed -on the 22d of December. After a long but favourable voyage, we anchored -in the Thames, on the 6th of May, 1846. The plants arrived in excellent -order, and were immediately conveyed to the garden of the Horticultural -Society at Chiswick. Already, many of those which I first imported have -found their way to the principal gardens in Europe; and at the present -time (October 20, 1846), the _Anemone japonica_ is in full bloom in the -garden of the Society at Chiswick, as luxuriant and beautiful as it -ever grew on the graves of the Chinese, near the ramparts of Shanghae. - -[Illustration: Anemone on the Tombs.] - - -[Illustration: A Chinese Funeral.] - - - * * * * * - - - LONDON: - - SPOTTISWOODE AND SHAW, - - New-street-Square. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Years' Wanderings in the -Northern Provinces of China, by Robert Fortune - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS *** - -***** This file should be named 54720-0.txt or 54720-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/4/7/2/54720/ - -Produced by Madeleine Fournier. 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- text-align: center; -/* border-style: ridge; - border-width: 6px; */ - width: 500px; -} - -.letter { - padding-top: 0.5em; - padding-bottom: 0.5em; - margin-right: 5%; - font-size: 97%; -} - -.letter .date { - text-align: right; - margin-right: 2em; -} - -.letter .dest { - margin-left: 2em; -} - -.char { - font-size: 95%; - font-weight: bold; -} - -.indic { - text-align: right; - font-style: italic; - margin-left: 30%; - margin-right: 2em; -} - -/* table of content */ -.toc { -} - -/* first column */ - -.toc tr td { - vertical-align: text-top; -} - -.toc tr td:first-child { - text-align: right; -} - -/* end of toc */ - - .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - -/* end of index */ - - </style> - </head> - -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Years' Wanderings in the Northern -Provinces of China, by Robert Fortune - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Three Years' Wanderings in the Northern Provinces of China - Including a visit to the tea, silk, and cotton countries; - with an account of the agriculture and horticulture of the - Chinese, new plants, etc. - -Author: Robert Fortune - -Release Date: May 14, 2017 [EBook #54720] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS *** - - - - -Produced by Madeleine Fournier. Images provided by the Internet Archive. - - - - - -</pre> - -<div class="cover"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a id="ill01"></a> -<img src="images/ill01.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="The City of Foo-chow-foo and Long Bridge" /> -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - - -<h1>THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS<br /><br /> - -IN<br /><br /> - -THE NORTHERN PROVINCES<br /><br /> - -OF<br /><br /> - -CHINA.</h1> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="center">London:</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Spottiswoode</span> and <span class="smcap">Shaw</span>,</p> - -<p class="center">New-street-Square.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="subtitle">WANDERINGS IN CHINA</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 468px;"> -<a id="ill02"></a> -<img src="images/ill02.jpg" width="468" height="747" alt="A CHINESE MARRIAGE PROCESSION." /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<p class="title">THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS<br /><br /> - -IN<br /><br /> - -THE NORTHERN PROVINCES<br /><br /> - -OF<br /><br /> - -CHINA,</p> - - -<p class="subtitle">INCLUDING<br /> - -A VISIT TO THE TEA, SILK, AND COTTON COUNTRIES:<br /> - -WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE<br /> - -AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE OF THE CHINESE,<br /> - -NEW PLANTS, ETC.</p> - - - - -<p class="author">BY<br /> - -ROBERT FORTUNE,<br /> - -BOTANICAL COLLECTOR TO THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF LONDON.</p> - - -<p class="edition">With Illustrations.</p> - - -<p class="editor">LONDON:<br /> - -JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br /> - -1847.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<h3><a href="#Page_1">CHAPTER I.</a></h3> - -<p>Introduction.—Erroneous Notions regarding China.—No -correct Sources of Information.—Information gleaned from -the Chinese not to be depended upon.—Imaginative -Powers of Authors on China.—Peculiar Traits in the -Character of the Chinese.—Remarks on Agriculture and -Soil.—On Government and Laws.—China has been -retrograding for many Years.—My own Experience.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_12">CHAPTER II.</a></h3> - -<p>First View of China and the Impressions produced.—Contrasted -with Java.—Land at Hong-kong.—Description -of its Harbour.—Town of Victoria.—Chinese Towns, -Stanley and Aberdeen.—Description of the Island.—Effects -of Rains.—"Happy Valley" noticed.—Chinese -mode of "Stopping the Supplies."—Views from the tops of -Mountains.—Climate.—Botany of the Island.—Few -Animals indigenous.—Unhealthiness of the Settlement.—Its -Causes.—Character of the Chinese Population.—Mixed -Character of Foreigners.—Remarks on the Settlement as a -Place of Trade.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_30">CHAPTER III.</a></h3> - -<p>Leave Hong-kong for Amoy.—Opium Station at Namoa.—Liberty -the English enjoy there.—Chinese Population, and -their Modes of living.—A new Admiral makes new Laws.—Cherry -Brandy alters his Views.—The Account which, -as in Duty bound, he sends to Peking.—Natural Tunnel -through Chaple Island.—Amoy.—Remarks on its Trade.—Travels -in the Country amongst the People.—The -want of a Tail.—The Hills.—Island of Koo-lung-soo.—Effects -of War.—Strange Rocks.—Unhealthy Nature of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>the Island.—Botany and Birds.—Visit to one of the Chief -Mandarins.—His House and Grounds.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_48">CHAPTER IV.</a></h3> - -<p>Leave Amoy.—Gale in the Formosa Channel.—Driven back -to Chimoo.—Chimoo Bay.—Chinese Mode of paying -Taxes.—Character of the Natives.—Journey to the Hills.—Chimoo -Pagoda.—Interesting Scenery.—Attacked and -robbed.—My Servant's Opinion of the State of Matters.—Get -back in safety to the Shore.—Novel Mode of -crossing the wet Sands.—New Plants found.—The Bay of -Chinchew.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_61">CHAPTER V.</a></h3> - -<p>Land at Chusan.—Description of the Island.—Town of -Tinghae.—Agriculture.—Staple Productions.—Hemp -Plants.—Palm of which Ropes are made—Trefoil cultivated -for Manure.—Oil Plant.—Flora.—Hills covered -with Azaleas, etc.—The Tallow Tree.—Green Tea Shrub.—Bamboos -and other Trees.—Fruits.—Yang Mai and -Kum-quat.—Inhabitants and Shops in Tinghae.—English -Names on Shop Doors.—A new Language.—Mode of -classing Foreigners.—Diseases of the Eye common.—Salt-making.—Method -of preparing the Vegetable Tallow.—Mode -of hatching Eggs by artificial Heat.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_82">CHAPTER VI.</a></h3> - -<p>First Visit to Ning-po.—The Bridge of Boats.—City and -Pagoda.—Medical Missionary.—Temperature—Chinese -Mode of keeping themselves warm.—Charcoal Stoves.—My -Lodgings.—Chinese Gamblers.—Description of Shops.—Silks -and Embroidery.—Jade Stone.—Cotton Printing.—Rope -making.—Curiosity Shops and Contents—"Furniture -Street" and Furniture.—Banking Establishment.—No -prospect of Foreign Trade.—Temples, and Devotion of -some of the People.—Dwarfed Trees.—Mode of Dwarfing -explained.—Mandarins' Gardens visited and described.—View -from Northern Hills.—Agriculture.—Native Flora of -these Hills.—Graves of the dead.—Collins exposed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_103">CHAPTER VII.</a></h3> - -<p>Remarks on the Chinese Language.—Ice-houses near Ning-po -described.—Their Simplicity and Utility.—Novel -Modes of Fishing.—Fishing Cormorants met with.—Their -Actions described.—Two pairs purchased.—Account -of their Food and Habits.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_115">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h3> - -<p>Shanghae visited at the end of 1843.—My Lodgings.—Prejudices -and Superstitions of the Inhabitants.—The City -described.—Shops and Merchandise.—Food.—An important -Station for foreign Trade.—The Exports of the -Country; Teas and Silk easily brought to it.—The adjacent -Country described.—Its Canals—Agriculture.—Tombs of -the Dead.—Trees and Shrubs.—Gardens and Nurseries.—Difficulty -of access to them.—Cunning and Deceit of the -Chinese.—A Chinese Dinner.—Theatricals.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_143">CHAPTER IX.</a></h3> - -<p>Return to the South of China.—The Canton River described.—Forts -at the Bocca Tigris.—Productions of the Country.—The -"Sighing" Willow.—Cultivation of the Nelumbium.—Boats -on the River.—The Barber's Boat, &c.—Splendour -of the Flower Boats.—Appearance of the River -at Festivals.—Order which prevails in this floating City. -Houses built over Water.—Chinese Dexterity in swimming -and diving.—Fa-tee Gardens.—Their Plants.—Old Aching -gets a bad Name because his Seeds do not grow.—He does -not deserve it.—Advice to the Buyers of Seeds.—English -and American Public Gardens at Canton.—Chinese New -Year.—Attacked and robbed by the Chinese.—A subsequent -Attack made upon some Officers of the English -Government.—Their Letter to Her Majesty's Consul.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_166">CHAPTER X.</a></h3> - -<p>Visit to the Ning-po Green Tea District.—Mountain travelling -Chair.—The Budhist Temple of Tein-tung.—Scenery -around the Temple.—Traditional History communicated by -the Priest.—The Temple and its Idols.—Invitation to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span>Dinner with the Priests.—First Trial with Chopsticks.—Politeness! -of the Chinese.—Usual Dinner Company.—My -Bed.—Devotions of the Priests.—Wild Boar Hunt.—Narrow -Escape.—Mode of frightening the Animals from -the Bamboo Plantations.—Mountain Scenery.—Budhist -Temple of Ah-yu-Wang.—Poo-to-san, or the Worshipping -Island.—Its Temples and Idols.—Bronze Gods.—Trees -and Shrubs.—Gardens and pet Plants of the Priests.—Sale -of Gods or Josses.—Offerings to the Gods in Shanghae -and Ning-po.—Processions in Honour of the Gods.—Christian -Missions.—Medical Missionary Society.—Roman -Catholics.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_197">CHAPTER XI.</a></h3> - -<p>The Tea-plant of China.—The Species found in the Green -and Black Tea Districts—Best Situation for Tea Plantations.—Remarks -on their Management.—Seasons, and -Method, of gathering the Leaves.—Manufacture of Tea.—Cottages -amongst the Tea Hills.—Furnaces and Drying -Pans.—First Application of Heat.—Rolling Process.—Exposure -of the Leaves to the Air.—Second Heating.—Length -of Time required.—Two kinds of Tea.—Difference -in the Manufacture of each.—Selecting and packing Teas.—Appearance -and Colour of the Leaf.—Peculiar Taste of -Foreigners for Dyed Teas.—Good Sense of the Chinese.—Tea -Merchants.—Their Visits to the Tea Hills.—Mode of -buying from the small Growers.—Black Tea District in -Fokien.—Teas divided into two Kinds.—Peculiar Method -of preparing each.—Cause of their difference in Colour.—Flowers -used in scenting the finer Teas.—Sir John -Francis Davis's Remarks on different kinds of Teas sold at -Canton.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_225">CHAPTER XII.</a></h3> - -<p>Chusan Archipelago.—Storm in a small Boat.—Nearly upset.—Kin-tang, -or Silver Island.—Its Inhabitants.—Their -Surprise on seeing a Foreigner.—Yang-tse-kiang River.—Its -numerous Sand Banks.—Our Schooner aground.—Novel -Method of getting Assistance from the Chinese.—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span>Village -of Woo-sung.—Opium Station.—Remarks on the -Opium Trade.—Its Effects upon the Chinese.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_242">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h3> - -<p>Shanghae in 1844.—Its Gardens and Plants.—Start for the -Hills in the Interior.—Canals and Bridges.—Adventure -with my Pony.—The "Tein-ching," or Blue Dye, found.—Hills -and their Vegetation described.—The Surprise of -the Natives on seeing a Foreigner.—Their Curiosity, and -Honesty!—Plants sent to England.—Another Journey -into the Interior.—Some large Northern Cities noticed.—A -midnight Visit from Thieves.—The far-famed City of -Soo-chow-foo visited.—A Description of it.—New Plants -found.—Central Position of Soo-chow as a Place of Trade.—Baths -for the Million.—Return to Shanghae.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_264">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h3> - -<p>Chinese Cotton Cultivation.—Yellow Cotton.—District where -it grows.—Cotton Country described.—Soil.—Manure, -and Mode of Application.—Preceding Crops.—Time of -sowing.—Method.—Rains.—Summer Cultivation.—Early -Rain advantageous.—Time of reaping and gathering. -Cotton Farmers and their Families.—Drying and cleaning -Process described.—Marketing.—Independence of the -Seller.—Crowded Streets in Shanghae during the Cotton -Season.—Warehouses and Packing—Home Consumption.—Stalks -used for Fuel.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_276">CHAPTER XV.</a></h3> - -<p>Climate of China.—Summer and Winter.—Temperature of -Hong-kong—of Shanghae.—Monsoons.—Typhoons.—Signs -of their Approach.—Description of a Typhoon -witnessed by the Author.—Effect produced upon Vegetation.—Rains.—Wet -and dry Seasons.—Meteorological -Table.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_290">CHAPTER XVI.</a></h3> - -<p>Chinese Agriculture.—Exaggerated Statements regarding its -Advancement.—Soil of the Hills.—Tea Land—Soil of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span>the Plains.—Summer Crops.—Rice and its Cultivation.—Chinese -Plough and Harrow.—Number of Crops -produced.—Method of obtaining two Crops of Rice in -Summer in the Province of Chekiang.—Rice Harvest.—Terrace -Cultivation described.—The Tein-ching Plant, -from which the Northern Indigo is obtained.—Summer -Hill Crops.—Cultivation of sweet Potatoes.—Earth Nuts.—Winter -Crops.—Celebrated Shan-tung Cabbage.—Oil -Plant.—Wheat, Barley, etc.—Ripening of Winter Crops.—Manures.—Two -Plants cultivated for this Purpose.—Their -Cultivation and Mode of Application.—A Manure -for mixing with Seeds.—Its Utility.—Other Manures in -common use.—Manure Tanks.—Night Soil and Urine.—Mode -of Application.—Succession anti Rotation of Crops.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_314">CHAPTER XVII.</a></h3> - -<p>Return to Chusan.—Its supposed Unhealthiness.—Mortality -amongst the Queen's Troops when first stationed there.—Subsequent -Salubrity.—Its Advantages over Hong-kong as -a British Settlement.—New Plants found on the Island.—Ning-po.—Gardens -of the Mandarins.—Manners of Chinese -Ladies.—Sail for Hong-kong.—Tombs of the Chinese.—Situations -supposed to be the best.—Soothsayers employed.—Their -Methods of working on the Minds of the People.—Mr. -Lay consulted as to the best Site for a Grave.—Inscriptions -on the Tombs.—Periodical Visits to them by -Relatives.—Different Modes of Interment.—Coffins exposed -in the Fields.—Kept in Houses.—Tombs near Sung-kiang-foo.—Favourite -Flowers for planting on the Graves.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_332">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></h3> - -<p>Plants shipped for England.—Sail for Manila.—Natural -Productions and Exports—Passport Annoyances.—The -Interior of Luzon.—Its Laguna.—Early Morning in the -Philippines.—Valuable Plants procured.—The "Queen -of Orchids."—Natural Habits of Air-Plants.—Lawless -Banditti of the Interior.—A false Alarm.—Monkeys more -harmless than Men.—A Night at Dolores with the Padre.—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span>Volcanoes -in the Philippines.—General Appearance of the -Country.—Leeches not very agreeable Companions.—Return -to Manila and ship Plants for England.—Sail -for the north of China.—"A Man overboard."—His -Recovery by a gallant Boat's Crew.—Arrive in the North.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_346">CHAPTER XIX.</a></h3> - -<p>Spring in the north of China.—New Flowers.—Journey -through the Country.—Motley Group of Fellow Passengers.—A -Morning Scene in a Chinese Junk.—Tartar City of -Chapoo.—Shops and Trade.—Crowds of People.—A -Visit to the Mandarins.—A free Passage onward offered.—Their -Object in this.—Means taken to thwart them.—Leave -Chapoo for Shanghae.—Country and Town of Ping-hoo.—Silk -Districts visited.—Cultivation of the Mulberry.—Management -of the Silk-worm.—Arrival at Shanghae.—Consul's -Letter enclosing one from the Taoutae, or Head -Mandarin.—A most satisfactory Reply!</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_364">CHAPTER XX</a>.</h3> - -<p>Sail for Foo-chow-foo on the River Min.—Novel Mode of -engaging a Pilot.—Entrance to the River.—Scenery on -its Banks.—Bridge of Foo-chow-foo.—Chinese Chairmen.—Insults -received from the Natives.—City and Suburbs.—Native -Trade.—Fishing Cormorants.—Bank Notes.—Character -of the Natives.—The Ladies and their fondness -for Flowers.—Population.—Remarks on Foo-chow-foo -as a Place of foreign Trade.—Government Spies.—Gardens -and Nurseries.—Deceit of the Mandarins.—Leave Foo-chow-foo -for the Tea Hills.—Mountain Scenery described.—Black -Tea Districts.—Flora of the Hills.—Agriculture of -the District.—Native Fruit.—Climate and Temperature.</p> - -<h3><a href="#Page_384">CHAPTER XXI.</a></h3> - -<p>Engage a Passage in a Junk.—Leave the District of the Min.—An -Attack of Fever.—Religious Ceremonies on Board the -Junk.—Attacked by Pirates.—Scene on Board.—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span>Cowardice -of the Chinese.—Pirates beat off.—Gratitude -of the Crew.—A safe Anchorage!—Another Fleet of -Pirates.—Attack, and Results.—Arrive at Chusan.—Ingratitude -of the Crew.—Mode of making them keep their -Word.—Kindness of foreign Residents at Shanghae.—Large -Peaches.—Collections paeked.—Leave the north of -China.—Sail for England.—Arrival in the Thames.—Conclusion.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> - -<table class="toc"> -<tr><td><a href="#ill01">1.</a></td><td>The City of Foo-chow-foo and Long Bridge</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill02">2.</a></td><td>Marriage Procession</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill03">3.</a></td><td>Map</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill04">4.</a></td><td>City of Ningpo—Bridge of Boats</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill05">5.</a></td><td>Old Pagoda in Ningpo</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill06">6.</a></td><td>Ice Houses</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill07">7.</a></td><td>River at Shanghae</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill08">8.</a></td><td>Mountain Chair</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill09">9.</a></td><td>Pans for drying the Tea</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill10">10.</a></td><td>Bamboo Table for rolling Tea</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill11">11.</a></td><td>Opium Pipe</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill12">12.</a></td><td>Water-wheel on the Island of Chusan</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill13">13.</a></td><td>Chusan Tombs</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill14">14.</a></td><td>Tomb of a Mandarin's Wife</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill15">15.</a></td><td>Pagoda on the River Min</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill16">16.</a></td><td>Anemone on the Tombs</td></tr> -<tr><td><a href="#ill17">17.</a></td><td>Chinese Funeral and Family Tomb</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill03"></a> -<img src="images/ill03.jpg" width="450" height="783" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Map to illustrate Fortune's wanderings in China</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<h2>THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS<br /><br /> - -IN<br /><br /> - -CHINA.</h2> - - -<h3>CHAPTER I.</h3> - -<p>INTRODUCTION.—ERRONEOUS NOTIONS REGARDING CHINA.—NO -CORRECT SOURCES OF INFORMATION.—INFORMATION -GLEANED FROM THE CHINESE NOT TO BE DEPENDED UPON.—IMAGINATIVE -POWERS OF AUTHORS ON CHINA.—PECULIAR -TRAITS IN THE CHARACTER OF THE CHINESE.—REMARKS ON -AGRICULTURE AND SOIL.—ON GOVERNMENT AND LAWS.—CHINA -HAS BEEN RETROGRADING FOR MANY YEARS.—MY OWN -EXPERIENCE.</p> - -<p class="p2">When the news of the peace with China first reached -England, in the autumn of 1842, I obtained the appointment -of Botanical Collector to the Horticultural -Society of London, and proceeded to China in that -capacity early in the spring of the following year. -In laying my travels and their results before the -public, I beg to say at the commencement, that I -have no intention of writing or "making" a "book -on China." By this I mean such books as have -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span>often been issued from the press, professing to give -a faithful and true account of the history of the -Chinese from the earliest ages, and their earliest -kings down to Taouk-wang and the present day, of -the arts, sciences, religion and laws, and the social -and moral condition of the people; whose authors, -with true Chinese "<i>Oula Custom</i>," stand manfully -by what the writers of other days have told them; -and faithfully hand down to posterity, by the aid of -the scissors and the pen, all the exaggerations and -absurdities which have ever been written on China -and the Chinese.</p> - -<p>This celebrated country has been long looked -upon as a kind of fairy-land by the nations of the -Western world. Its position on the globe is so -remote that few—at least informer days—had -an opportunity of seeing and judging for themselves; -and besides, those few were confined within -the most narrow limits at Canton and Macao, the -very outskirts of the kingdom, and far removed -from the central parts or the seat of the government. -Even the Embassies of Lord Macartney and -Lord Amherst, although they went as far as the -capital, were so fettered and watched by the -jealous Chinese that they saw little more than their -friends who remained at Canton. Under these circumstances -much that was gleaned from the Chinese -themselves relating to their country, was of the -most exaggerated description, if not entirely fabulous. -They, from the highest Mandarin down -to the meanest beggar, are filled with the most -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>conceited notions of their own importance and -power; and fancy that no people however civilised, -and no country however powerful, are for one -moment to be compared with them. As an instance -of this I may mention the following:—When -the first steamer visited the coast of China, -the Chinese in Canton and Macao did not exhibit -the least surprise, but merely said "<i>Have got plenty, -all same, inside,</i>" meaning that such things were -quite common in the interior of their country. -Moreover, they cannot appreciate statistical inquiries; -but always fancy that we have some secret -motive for making them; or that the subject cannot -be of the slightest importance, either to ourselves -or others, and consequently do not trouble themselves -about obtaining correct information.</p> - -<p>I have been often much annoyed with this propensity -of theirs during my travels in the country; -and have had frequently to travel many a weary -mile, merely because they did not think it worth -their while to give me correct information. In fact, -latterly I made a practice of disbelieving every -thing they told me, until I had an opportunity of -seeing and judging for myself.</p> - -<p>Shut out from the country, and having no means -of getting information on which we could depend -(for independent of Chinese statements, the accounts -written by the Jesuits were in many instances -grossly exaggerated), it is not to be wondered at if -the works in our language were more remarkable -for the exhibition of the imaginative power of their -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>authors, than for facts concerning China and the -Chinese. We were in the position of little children -who gaze with admiration and wonder at a penny -peep-show in a fair or market-place at home.—We -looked with magnifying eyes on every thing Chinese; -and fancied, for the time at least, that what we saw -was certainly real. But the same children who -look with wonder upon the scenes of Trafalgar and -Waterloo, when the curtain falls, and their penny-worth -of sights has passed by, find that, instead -of being amongst those striking scenes which have -just passed in review before their eyes, they are -only, after all, in the market-place of their native -town. So it is with "children of a larger growth." -This mystery served the purpose of the Chinese so -long as it lasted; and although we perhaps did not -give them credit for all to which they pretended, -at least we gave them much more than they -really deserved.</p> - -<p>Viewing the subject in this light we have little difficulty -in accounting for the false colouring which -has been given to every picture drawn by authors -who have written on this country, and who have -extolled to the skies her perfection in the arts, in -agriculture, in horticulture, the fertility of the -soil, the industry of the people, and the excellence -of her government and laws. But the curtain -which had been drawn around the celestial country -for ages, has now been rent asunder; and instead -of viewing an enchanted fairy-land, we find, after -all, that China is just like other countries. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>Doubtless the Chinese were in that half-civilised -state in which they are now, at a very early period, -and when the now polished nations of the West -were yet rude savages. It is long since they discovered -the art of making the beautiful porcelain, -lacquer-ware, and silks, which have for centuries -been so much admired in Europe; but these very -facts—their civilised condition, their advancement -in the arts, and even their discovering a magnetic -power in nature, which they could convert -into a compass for the purpose of navigation—instead -of telling in their favour as an active and -intelligent people, do the very reverse when we -consider what they might have been now and what -they really are.</p> - -<p>A great proportion of the northern Chinese seem -to be in a sleepy or dreaming state, from which it is -difficult to awake them. When a foreigner at any -of the northern ports goes into a shop, the whole -place inside and out is immediately crowded with -Chinese, who gaze at him with a sort of stupid -dreaming eye; and it is difficult to say whether they -really see him or not, or whether they have been -drawn thereby some strange mesmeric influence over -which they have no control: and I am quite sure -that, were it possible for the stranger to slip out of -his clothes and leave a block standing in his place, -these Chinese would still continue to gaze on, and -never know the difference. The conduct of the -Chinese peasants during the war was very remarkable -in this respect. I have been told by some of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>the military officers, that, when the whole fleet of -sailing vessels and steamers went up the Yang-tse-Kiang -in 1842, many of the agricultural labourers -on the banks of the river used to hold up their -heads for a few seconds, and look with a kind of -stupid gaze upon our noble fleet; and then quietly -resume their labours, as if the thing was only an -every day occurrence, and they had seen it a -thousand times before. When the "Medusa" -steamer went up the Shanghae river for several -miles above the city, the river became so narrow -that they had some difficulty in finding a place -wide enough to allow the steamer to come round. -A peasant was standing on the bank smoking his -pipe, and looking on with the most perfect unconcern -when, the helm being put down, the little -vessel in coming round shot right across the stream, -and came in contact with the bank, just under the -very feet of the Chinaman. The shock was of course -considerable, and the man who all at once seemed -to awake from a trance, set off in the utmost -terror, like an arrow, across the fields, without once -looking behind him; and, as Captain Hewitt who -related the story, remarked, for any thing he knew, -the man was running until this day! Many of the -Chinese are of course very different characters from -those I have just described; and are as active men -as you find in any part of the world: but the -above are striking features in the character of the -inhabitants of the northern parts of the country -which I have had an opportunity of visiting.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>In the knowledge and practice of agriculture, -although the Chinese may be in advance of other -Eastern nations, they are not for a moment to be -compared with the civilised nations of the West. -Perhaps more nonsense has been written upon -this subject than upon any other connected with -China; and we can only account for it by supposing -the writers to have been entirely unacquainted with -the subject, and led away by the fancies and prejudices -above alluded to. How ridiculous, for -example, for them to speak in such glowing terms -of the fertility of the land, when we bear in mind -that they judged from what they saw at Canton -and Macao! Had they seen the glorious scenery -amongst the mountains at Tein-tung near Ning-po, -or the rich plain of Shanghae, then indeed they -might have written in the most glowing terms of -the fertility of Chinese soil; but what terms could -they have found to describe it, after giving the -barren soil of the south such a character?</p> - -<p>Although it is not my intention to devote any -part of these pages to the history and government -of the Chinese, I must still notice, in passing, what -has been so often said about the perfection of their -government and laws. And here, too, I must differ -from those who have such high notions of the -Chinese in these respects. I think no country can -be well governed where the government is powerless, -and has not the means of punishing those who -break the laws. China is very weak in this respect, -compared with European nations, and the only thing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>which keeps the country together is the quiet and -inoffensive character of the people. Everybody, -who has travelled in China, knows that, wherever -the natives are enterprising and bold, they set the -government at defiance whenever it suits their -purpose to do so. For example, what can the -government do if the natives on the coast of Fokien,—a -bold and lawless race, choose to disobey its -mandates?—Positively nothing. Even further -north, where the Mandarins are more powerful—in -Shanghae for example—the Chinchew men, as -they are called, often fight pitched battles with fire-arms, -in the streets and in open day; and the -Mandarins, with all their soldiers at their backs, -dare not to interfere. Surely no government worth -any thing would tolerate this state of things. The -system of apprehension and punishment is so -curious, and so characteristic of the Chinese government, -that I must not omit to mention it. The -belligerents are allowed to fight as long and as -fiercely as they choose, and the soldiers never -interfere: but when the weakest side is over-powered, -and probably a number of lives lost in -the affray, they come down in great force and seize -and carry off to punishment the most defenceless: -and, in circumstances of this kind, they are not -over particular about seizing the most riotous, -or those most implicated in the disturbances, provided -those they seize are the weakest and least able -to resist. Such conduct in the Chinese government -I have been an eye-witness to, again and again, in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>the north of China; more particularly in Shanghae. -What should we think if such a state of things -existed in England? and yet this is a specimen of -the government which has been considered so perfect, -and which has been so highly eulogised.</p> - -<p>There can be no doubt that the Chinese empire -arrived at its highest state of perfection many years -ago; and since then it has rather been retrograding -than advancing. Many of the northern cities, -evidently once in the most flourishing condition, -are now in a state of decay, or in ruins; the -pagodas which crown the distant hills, are crumbling -to pieces, and apparently are seldom repaired; -the spacious temples are no longer as they used to -be in former days; even the celebrated temples on -Pootoo-San (an island near Chusan) to which, as -to Jerusalem of old, the natives come from afar to -worship, show all the signs of having seen better -days. It is very true that these are heathen -temples, and the good in every land will hail with -delight the day when these shall give way to others -which shall be erected to the true God: but nevertheless -such is the fact, that these places are not -supported as they used to be: and from this I -conclude that the Chinese, as a nation, are retrograding -rather than advancing.</p> - -<p>Although I have considered it necessary to expose -in this manner the prejudiced opinions which -have been from time to time given out to the world -by authors on China, I am far from having any -prejudice against the Chinese people. On the contrary, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>in many respects they stand high in my -estimation. During the last three years I have -been continually among them; wandering over -and among their hills, dining in their houses, and -sleeping in their temples: and from this experience -I do not hesitate in pronouncing them a very different -race from what they are generally supposed -to be. The natives of the southern towns, and all -along the coast, at least as far north as Chekiang, -richly deserve the bad character which every one -gives them; being remarkable for their hatred to -foreigners and conceited notions of their own importance, -besides abounding in characters of the -very worst description, who are nothing less than -thieves and pirates. But the character of the -Chinese as a nation must not suffer from a partial -view of this kind; for it must be recollected that, -in every country, the worst and most lawless -characters are amongst those who inhabit sea-port -towns, and who come in contact with natives -of other countries: and unfortunately we must -confess that European nations have contributed -their share to make these people what they really -are. In the north of China, and more particularly -inland, the natives are entirely different. There are -doubtless bad characters and thieves amongst them -too: but generally the traveller is not exposed to -insult; and the natives are quiet, civil, and obliging. -And although they are not entitled to the credit of -being equal to, much less in advance of the nations -of the West in science, in the arts, in government, or -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>in laws; yet they are certainly considerably in advance -of the Hindoos, Malays, and other nations -who inhabit the central and western portions of -Asia. Besides, the manners and customs of the -people, and the strange formation of the country, -are indeed striking when viewed by the stranger's -eye;—the pagodas, like monuments to departed -greatness, towering on the hills; the strange dresses -and long tails of the men, and the small deformed -feet of the women. Added to which, this is the -land of tea,—a beverage which in the eyes of Englishmen -is enough to immortalise any country, -had it nothing else besides. But I must again -assert, that the great secret of the popularity of -China, and the Chinese people, lies in the manner -in which foreigners allowed themselves to be treated -in former days, and in the mystery with which -the Chinese, from principle, enveloped every thing -relating to their country.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. II.</h3> - -<p>FIRST VIEW OF CHINA AND THE IMPRESSIONS PRODUCED.—CONTRASTED -WITH JAVA.—LAND AT HONG-KONG.—DESCRIPTION -OF ITS HARBOUR.—TOWN OF VICTORIA.—CHINESE -TOWNS, STANLEY AND ABERDEEN.—DESCRIPTION OF THE -ISLAND.—EFFECTS OF RAINS.—"HAPPY VALLEY" NOTICED.—CHINESE -MODE OF "STOPPING THE SUPPLIES."—VIEWS -FROM THE TOPS OF MOUNTAINS.—CLIMATE.—BOTANY OF -THE ISLAND—FEW ANIMALS INDIGENOUS.—UNHEALTHINESS -OF THE SETTLEMENT—ITS CAUSES.—CHARACTER OF THE -CHINESE POPULATION.—MIXED CHARACTER OF FOREIGNERS.—REMARKS -ON THE SETTLEMENT AS A PLACE OF TRADE.</p> - -<p class="p2">On the sixth of July, 1843, after a passage of four -months from England, I had the first view of the -shores of China: and although I had often heard of -the bare and unproductive hills of this celebrated -country, I certainly was not prepared to find them -so barren as they really are. Viewed from the -sea, they have everywhere a scorched appearance, -with rocks of granite and red clay showing all over -their surface: the trees are few, and stunted in their -growth, being perfectly useless for any thing but -fire-wood, the purpose to which they are generally -applied in this part of the country. A kind of fir-tree -(<i>Pinus sinensis</i>) seems to struggle hard for -existence, and is found in great quantities all over -the hill sides; but, what with the barren nature -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>of the soil, and the Chinese practice of lopping -off its branches for fuel, it never attains any size, -but is merely a stunted bush. Was this, then, the -"flowery land," the land of camellias, azaleas, -and roses, of which I had heard so much in England? -What a contrast betwixt this scenery and -the hills and valleys of Java, where I had been only -a few days before! There, from the sea-shore to -the tops of the highest hills, the whole is clothed -with the most luxuriant vegetation; and when -the sun rises in the morning, or when his last -rays scatter themselves over the lovely landscape, -deepening the tints of the foliage of all hues, the -scene presented to the view may well be called -grand and sublime. But, as the poet sings,—</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"'Tis the land of the East, the clime of the sun."<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p>After a few hours' pleasant sailing amongst the -islands, we at last reached the beautiful bay of -Hong-kong, and anchored opposite to the new town -of Victoria. Hong-kong bay is one of the finest -which I have ever seen: it is eight or ten miles in -length, and irregular in breadth; in some places -two, and in others six miles wide, having excellent -anchorage all over it, and perfectly free -from hidden dangers. It is completely sheltered -by the mountains of Hong-kong on the south, and -by those of the main land of China on the opposite -shore; land-locked, in fact, on all sides; so that the -shipping can ride out the heaviest gales with perfect -safety.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>The new town of Victoria is situated on the -north side of the island, along the shores of this -splendid bay, with the mountain chain rising precipitously -and majestically behind it. When viewed -from the sea in 1843, it had a curious and irregular -appearance; but as the plan of the town becomes -more developed, and better houses are built, it -will really be a very pretty little place. When -I left China, at the end of December, 1845, it had -made most rapid progress; new houses and even -new streets had risen, as if by magic. Some noble -government buildings were nearly completed, to be -used as barracks for the soldiers; excellent and -substantial houses were erected, or in the course of -erection, for the merchants; and a large Chinese -town had been built to the westward, for the principal -part of the Chinese population. A beautiful -road, called the Queen's Road, has been formed -along the shore for several miles; and this was lined -with excellent houses, and many very good shops. -Many of the Chinese shops are little inferior to -those in Canton, and certainly equal to what used -to be in Macao. In fact, a very large proportion of -the Macao shopkeepers have removed their establishments -to Hong-kong; the former place being -now useless for the purpose of trade since the -English left it. The bazaar or market is also a -most excellent one. Here we find all the natural -productions of China, which are brought regularly -from the main land; such as the fruits and vegetables -indigenous to the country; fowls, ducks, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>teal, quails, and pheasants; meat of all kinds; and in -fact every luxury which the natives or foreigners -can possibly require. Besides these, English potatoes, -green peas, and several other kinds of foreign -vegetables are plentiful at almost all seasons of the -year.</p> - -<p>The only other Chinese towns on the island of any -note besides the new one just noticed, are on the -south side, and used to be called Little Hong-kong -and Chuckehew; their names have been changed -lately by the governor, Sir J. Davis, into <i>Stanley</i> -and <i>Aberdeen</i>. They are merely fishing-towns; but -the government always keeps up a military station -at the latter, which renders it of some importance.</p> - -<p>Hong-kong is one of the largest islands near -the mouth of the Canton river. It is about -eight miles from east to west, and the widest -part of it is not more than six miles; but it is very -irregular, some parts being only three miles in -breadth, and the land jutting out here and there, -forming a succession of headlands and bays. Imagine, -then, an island considerably longer than it is -broad, perfectly mountainous, and sloping in a -rugged manner to the water's edge, having here -and there deep ravines almost at equal distances -along the coast, which extend from the tops of the -mountains down to the sea, deepening and widening -in their course. There are immense blocks of -granite in these ravines, which have either been -bared by the rapid currents of water in its descent -during the rains, or which have tumbled into them -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>from the sides of the mountains at some former -period of time. The water in these ravines is -abundant and excellent; and hence the poetical -name which the Chinese have given our island. -<i>Hong-kong</i>, or more properly <i>Heang-Keang</i>, the -"<i>Island of fragrant streams</i>." During the wet -season—for it rains in torrents then—these little -streams swell with the augmentation of fresh -water; and rush down from the mountains with a -velocity which sweeps every thing before them. -In May, 1845, one of these storms of thunder and -rain visited Victoria; and the effects produced by -it were perfectly astonishing; houses were undermined, -roads made at a great expense only a few -months before, were swept away; drains were burst -open; and many of the bridges and other public works -rendered perfectly useless. "The Hong-kong Register" -thus notices the storm to which I allude:—"The -damage was very great, both to the recently-formed -roads and to many buildings in the course of erection; -and had the violence of the rain continued an hour -or two longer, many houses must have been undermined -and destroyed. As it was, much individual -inconvenience has been sustained. About 5 o'clock -the whole of Queen's Road, from the entrance to -the large bazaar to the market-place, was completely -flooded, to the depth of from two to four -feet. All the streets leading upwards to the hill -served as feeders to this lake. In Peel Street -particularly, the torrent rushed along, bearing -every thing before it, and the street still resembles -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>a dried up water-course, covered with stones and -wrecks of buildings. The passages from the Queen's -Road to the sea were all full; the one leading -through Chunam's Hong for hours presented the -appearance of a rapid river, and many of the -houses on each side were only saved from the flood -by mud walls hastily raised. About 6 o'clock the -rain moderated, but for some time after the road -was quite impassable. A Coolie, attempting to -ford the stream rushing down D'Aguilar Street, -was borne off his feet, but saved himself by catching -hold of the frame of a mat-shed. The drain -lately formed could not carry off the water, which -committed great devastation, flooding a new house -in its vicinity to the depth of nearly three feet, and -destroying some new walls. All the open drains in -the upper streets have suffered, many are entirely -destroyed, leaving scarcely a trace of the street. A -stream from a distant water-course flowed along the -road above the bungalow, occupied by the attorney-general, -and descending with great fury upon the roof -of one of his out-offices, carried away a great part of -it. In many places the Queen's Road has been -covered with soil, sand, &c., to the depth of more -than two feet, and nearly all the cross drains are -choked up. The bridge at the Commissariat has -been carried away, and that in the Wong-nai-chung -has also disappeared. Several lives were lost by -the fall of a house in which some Chinese resided; -and it is said the stream at Pokfowlum burst upon -a mat hut in which were a number of Coolies, employed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>upon the new road; three saved themselves -in a tree, but many more are missing, and are -supposed to have been carried out to sea."</p> - -<p>There is very little flat ground on the Island -capable of being brought under cultivation; indeed -the only tract of any extent is the "Wang-Nai -Chung," or, as the English call it, the "happy -Valley," about two miles east from the town; and -even that is not more than twenty or thirty acres -in extent. There are several other small plots -of ground near the bottom of the hills, and some few -terraced patches amongst them, but the whole is of -very trifling extent. In former times the Chinese -used to cultivate crops of rice and vegetables in -the Wang-Nai-Chung Valley, but the place proved -to be very unhealthy; and the Government, supposing -that the malaria might proceed from the -water necessary to bring the crops to maturity, -prohibited the natives from cultivating them, and -set about draining the land. From this description -it will be seen that our settlement on this Island is -entirely dependent on the dominions of his Celestial -Majesty for supplies, which he, of course, can cut -off when he pleases. Shortly after the present -Governor, Sir John Francis Davis, took the helm -of affairs in China, he, with the advice of the -Legislative Council of Hong-kong, passed a law -for registering all the inhabitants of the island, -English and Chinese, the latter of course being -under the rule of Her Britannic Majesty's representative. -The Chinese population, ever jealous -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>of foreigners, fancied there was more in this than -met the eye, and that it was done for the purpose of -<i>squeezing</i> them, and they actually rebelled against -the decree. A meeting of all the Compradores and -other great men took place, and one of the results -was, that the "supplies" were stopped. For -several days every thing stood still, the Coolies -would not work, the boats would not bring provisions, -in fact, the Chinese were in a fair way of -starving the "Legislative Council of Hong-kong" -into making better laws; and they succeeded at -last in making them alter the celebrated Registration -Act into one more agreeable to their feelings.</p> - -<p>From the tops of the mountains the view is -grand and imposing in the extreme; mountain is -seen rising above mountain, rugged, barren and -wild—the elevation of the highest being nearly two -thousand feet—the sea as far as the eye can reach -is studded with islands of the same character as -Hong-kong; on one side our beautiful bay lies -beneath us crowded with shipping and boats, and on -the other, the far extending waters of the China sea.</p> - -<p>The climate of Hong-kong is far from being -agreeable, and up to the present time, has proved -very unhealthy, both to Europeans and to the native -Chinese. During the months of July and August—the -hottest in the year—the maximum heat shown -by my thermometer was 94° Fahr. and the minimum -in the same time was 80°. The difference -between the heat of day and night is generally -about 10 degrees. In winter the thermometer -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>sometimes sinks as low as the freezing point, but -this is a rare occurrence. Even in the midst -of winter, when the sun shines, it is scarcely -possible to walk out without the shelter of an -umbrella, and if any one has the hardihood to -attempt it, he invariably suffers for his folly. The -air is so dry that one can scarcely breathe, and -there is no shade to break the force of the almost -vertical rays of the sun. At other times in winter, -the wind blows cold and cutting from the north, -and fires are necessary in the houses; indeed, at all -seasons the climate is liable to sudden changes of -temperature.</p> - -<p>The botany of the island possesses a considerable -degree of interest, at least would have done so -some years ago, when the plants indigenous to it -were less known than they now are. By far the -most beautiful plants met with on the low ground, -are the different species of <i>LagerstrÅ“mia</i>. There -are two or three varieties, having red, white, and -purple flowers, and in the summer months when -they are in bloom, they are quite the hawthorns -of China; surpassing in their gorgeous flowers -even that beautiful family. I have generally met -with them in a wild state, very near the sea shore. -A little higher up we find the beautiful <i>Ixora -coccinea</i> flowering in profusion in the clefts of the -rocks, and its scarlet heads of bloom under the -Hong-kong sun are of the most dazzling brightness. -The ravines are crowded with ferns and creeping -shrubs of different kinds, not however of much -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>interest to the lover of ornamental flowering plants. -Here, however, under the ever-dripping rocks, we -find the beautiful <i>Chirita sinensis</i>, a plant with -elegant foxglove lilac flowers, which I sent to the -Horticultural Society soon after I arrived in China, -and which is now to be found in many of the gardens -of England.</p> - -<p>It is a curious fact connected with the vegetation -of Hong-kong, that all the most ornamental flowering -plants are found high up on the mountains, from -a thousand to two thousand feet above the level -of the sea. In the northern parts of China, such -as Chusan and the mountainous country near -Ning-po, the same description of plants are indigenous -to less elevated situations, and there, on the -tops of the hills, we find little else than specks of -grass, wild roses and violets, thus showing how -plants accommodate themselves to the climate, by -choosing a higher or lower altitude as the climate -in which they are placed may be hot or cold. All -the beautiful plants indigenous to Hong-kong, with -the exceptions already pointed out, grow and -flourish high up amongst the hills. Several species -of <i>Azalea</i>, a plant now so well known in England, -are found covering the sides of the hills at least -fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, and -they are not met with at all at a low elevation on -the same hills. The <i>Polyspora axillaris</i> grows in -the same situations, and another plant, perhaps -the most beautiful of all; I mean the <i>Enkianthus -reticulatus</i>. This plant is very highly prized by the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>Chinese. It flowers in February and March, about -the time of their new year, and they then bring -the branches down from the hills in great quantities -for the decoration of their houses. The flowers are -unexpanded when they are gathered, but by being -placed in water, they very soon bloom in the houses, -and remain for more than a fortnight as fresh and -beautiful as if they had been taken up with their -roots in the most careful manner. Even the more -beautiful amongst the native Orchids are only found -at a considerable elevation. The tops of the highest -hills are covered in the summer and autumn months -with the purple <i>Arundina sinensis</i>, and the yellow -<i>Spathoglottis Fortuni</i>.</p> - -<p>The trees on the island are few, and generally in -a stunted condition. The fir (<i>Pinus sinensis</i>) is common -here as it is all along the coast of China; <i>Cunninghamia -sinensis</i> is rare on Hong-kong, although -frequently met with on the main land; the tallow-tree -is also indigenous, but no use is made of its -fruit. Many kinds of the fig tribe are common, -and one, the <i>Ficus nitida</i>, a kind of banyan, sometimes -forms a very ornamental tree. Several species -of bamboo seem to grow very well, and in the -situations where they are found are strikingly -ornamental.</p> - -<p>The only trees to the cultivation of which the -Chinese pay any attention, are the fruit bearing -kinds; and in some places there are very fair -orchards containing the Mango, Leechee, Longan, -Wangpee, Orange, Citrons, and Pumelows.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>Although there are many more species of shrubs -and trees indigenous to Hong-kong, yet after all the -island has a barren and desolate appearance. -The nature of the soil will always be a great barrier -in the way of any improvement in this state of -things; but even this, to a certain extent at least, -may be overcome by the liberality of the Government, -or even by the energy and taste of private -individuals, and Hong-kong or Victoria may become -in a few years very different from what it now -is. We have only to look at what has been done -as an earnest of what may follow. Trees lately -planted are already growing beautifully in the -grounds of Messrs. Dents, the Honourable Major -Caine, Messrs. Jardine, and Messrs. Matheson, and -at Mr. Stewart's, a considerable way up the hill.</p> - -<p>The island is not rich in indigenous animals. -I have frequently seen wild goats feeding in the -most inaccessible parts of the rocky crags; there -are also deer and foxes, but these are extremely -rare. The only animals of the feathered tribe one -meets with are, two or three species of king-fishers, -some small singing birds and a few wood-pigeons -where there are any trees or bushes to shelter -them. The main land is much better stocked with -birds. From thence the natives bring to the market -large quantities of pheasants, partridges, quail, -ducks, teal, and sometimes woodcocks and snipes. -These birds are seldom seen wild amongst the -mountains of Hong-kong, and when they are, they -have only accidentally strayed from the main land. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>Luckily for the poor Chinese, their waters are much -more productive than the land, and an inconceivable -variety of fish is daily brought to the markets, and -forms, with rice, the staple article of their food.</p> - -<p>There are numerous fine quarries of granite -along the coast, from which the stone has been -obtained for the new town of Victoria. Much of -the granite in different parts of the island is in -a state of decay, and some ingenious persons have -fancied that to this may be ascribed the prevalence -of that malignant disease called the "Hong-kong -fever," which has baffled medical skill, and carried -hundreds to the tomb.</p> - -<p>The autumnal months, August, September, and -October, are most unhealthy. In 1843, when I -first visited the island, it was in a lamentable condition. -A place called the "West Point," where some -barracks stood, and which was to all appearance as -healthy as any other, proved fatal to the greater -part of a detachment of our troops quartered there. -The mortality was such, that Lord Saltoun, then -commander-in-chief, was obliged to remove the -wretched remnant, and ordered the barracks to be -pulled down.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The "Wang-nai-chung," that "<i>happy</i> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>Valley" already noticed, was another most unhealthy -spot. One of my fellow-passengers, Mr. -Dyer, and his partner, who came out with high -hopes of succeeding in business under the new -regulations, went to live in this place, where, in a -few days, they were seized with fever, and in a few -more they had both gone to "that undiscovered -country from whose bourn no traveller returns." In -other parts of the island, which were at that time considered -more healthy, fever prevailed to a great extent. -Among those who were carried off, and whose -death caused the greatest regret, were Major Pottinger -and the Honourable J. R. Morrison, Chinese -interpreter, son of the celebrated Dr. Morrison. -The former had been only out for a few days, and -was on the point of returning home with despatches -for the Government. Many other instances -might be mentioned; but these are sufficient to show -the deplorable condition of our new settlement -at this time; and so malignant and fatal was this -disease, that few who were seized ever recovered. -The only advice the doctors gave, was at once to -leave the island and fly to Macao.</p> - -<p>The south side of Hong-kong was at this time -considered much more healthy than the north, -where the new town of Victoria was being built. -The prevailing opinion amongst the inhabitants -then was that the town ought to have been placed on -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>the south side, which had the advantage of being -exposed to the refreshing breeze of the south-west -monsoon, from which the north was in a great -measure shut out by the range of mountains. This -theory, however, was soon disproved, for latterly the -troops stationed at Aberdeen, on the south side, -have suffered more than those in Victoria.</p> - -<p>My own observation has led me to the following -conclusions:—Much of the sickness and mortality, -doubtless, proceeded from the imperfect construction -and dampness of the houses in which our -people were obliged to live when the colony was -first formed; and a great deal may be also attributed -to exposure to the fierce and burning rays -of the Hong-kong sun. All the travellers in the -East, with whom I had any conversation on the -subject, agreed, that there was a fierceness and -oppressiveness in the sun's rays here, which they -never experienced in any other part of the tropics, -even under the line. I have no doubt that this -is caused by the want of luxuriant vegetation, and -the consequent reflection of the sun's rays. The -bare and barren rocks and soil reflect every ray -that strikes them; there are no trees or bushes -to afford shade, or to decompose the carbonic acid, -and render it fit for the respiration of man, and -thus the air wants that peculiar softness which -makes it so agreeable even in hot tropical climates.</p> - -<p>If these are the principal causes of the mortality -in our new colony, the remedy will of course be apparent -to every one. Already a great improvement -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>has taken place in the houses of the merchants, and -in the barracks of the soldiers, and the results have -been most satisfactory. But the colonists must not -stop at this stage in their improvements. Let the -Government and the inhabitants use every means -in their power to clothe the hill-sides in and -around the town with a healthy vegetation; let -them plant trees and shrubs by the road sides, in -gardens, and in every place available for such purposes; -and then I have no doubt that Victoria -will be quite as healthy as Macao. No one can -approve of the selection of Hong-kong as a British -settlement; but that part of the business being -irremediable, we must make the most of our bargain.</p> - -<p>The native population in Victoria, consist of -shopkeepers, tradesmen, servants, boat-people, and -Coolies, and altogether form a most motley group. -Unfortunately there is no inducement for the respectable -Chinese merchant to take up his quarters -there, and until that takes place, we shall always -have the worst set of people in the country. The -town swarms with thieves and robbers, who are -only kept under by the strong armed police lately -established. Previous to this, scarcely a dark -night passed without some one having his house -broken into by an armed band, and all that was -valuable being carried off or destroyed. These -audacious rascals did not except the Governor even, -for one night Government House was robbed; and -another time they actually stole the arms of the -sentries. These armed bands, sometimes a hundred -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>strong, disappeared, as they came, in a most -marvellous manner, and no one seemed to know -whence they came or whither they went. Such -attacks are fortunately now of rare occurrence. -In all my wanderings on the island, and also -on the main land hereabouts, I found the inhabitants -harmless and civil. I have visited their -glens and their mountains, their villages and small -towns, and from all the intercourse I have had -with them, I am bound to give them this character. -But perhaps the secret of all was, that I had nothing -for them to take, for I was always most careful -not to have any thing valuable about me, and -my clothes, after scrambling amongst the rocks and -brushwood, were not very tempting even to a -Chinaman.</p> - -<p>Since the island of Hong-kong has been ceded to -England, the foreign population in it has been much -changed. In former days there were only a few -mercantile establishments, all known to each other, -and generally most upright and honourable men. -Now people from all countries, from England to -Sydney, flock to the Celestial country, and form -a very motley group.</p> - -<p>Viewed as a place of trade, I fear Hong-kong -will be a failure. The great export and import -trade of southern China must necessarily be carried -on at Canton, as heretofore, there being at present, -at least, no inducement to bring that trade to -Hong-kong. It will, nevertheless, be a place of -great importance to many of the merchants, more -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>particularly to those engaged in the opium trade; -and will, in fact, be the head-quarters of all houses -who have business on the coast, from the facilities -of gaining early information regarding the state of -the English and Indian markets, now that steam -communication has been established between this -country and the south of China. Moreover, with -all its faults, its importance may yet be acknowledged -in the event of another war. Our countrymen -cannot have so entirely forgotten the kind of -protection which used to be afforded them by the -Portuguese at Macao, as to make them wish to be -put in the same circumstances again; and it is of -no little importance to know that their lives and -property are safe under the British flag, which has</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i4">.... " braved a thousand years<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The battle and the breeze."<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<div class="footnotes"> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Before leaving China, I had occasion to visit this spot of -ground—the grave of many a brave soldier. A fine road -leading round the island, for the recreation and pleasure of the -inhabitants, passed through the place where they had been -buried. Many of their coffins were exposed to the vulgar -gaze, and the bones of the poor fellows lay scattered about -on the public highway. No one could find fault with the road -having been made there, but if it was necessary to uncover the -coffins, common decency required that they should be buried -again.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. III.</h3> - -<p>LEAVE HONG-KONG FOR AMOY.—OPIUM STATION AT NAMOA.—LIBERTY -THE ENGLISH ENJOY THERE.—CHINESE POPULATION, -AND THEIR MODES OF LIVING.—A NEW ADMIRAL -MAKES NEW LAWS.—CHERRY-BRANDY ALTERS HIS VIEWS.—THE -ACCOUNT WHICH, AS IN DUTY BOUND, HE SENDS TO -PEKING.—NATURAL TUNNEL THROUGH CHAPLE ISLAND.—AMOY.—REMARKS -ON ITS TRADE.—TRAVELS IN THE COUNTRY -AMONGST THE PEOPLE.—THE WANT OF A TAIL.—THE -HILLS.—ISLAND OF KOO-LUNG-SOO.—EFFECTS OF -WAR.—STRANGE ROCKS.—UNHEALTHY NATURE OF THE -ISLAND.—BOTANY AND BIRDS.—VISIT TO ONE OF THE CHIEF -MANDARINS.—HIS HOUSE AND GROUNDS.</p> - -<p class="p2">I left the pleasant bay of Hong-kong on the 23d -of August, and sailed for Amoy. As we came -out of the harbour by the western entrance, and -rounded the south side of the island, I had an excellent -view of the little town of Chuckchew, and -the military station established there. The town, -or village, for it is but a small place, is pleasantly -situated on the shores of a deep bay, and fully exposed -to the refreshing breezes of the south-west -monsoon, and is generally considered much more -healthy than the town of Victoria, on the opposite -side of the island.</p> - -<p>It was now my lot to be seized with that dreadful -fever, which I have already noticed, as so prevalent -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>in our new settlement at this time. I -lay in a very precarious state for several days, -without the means of procuring medical aid; but -the sea air probably did more for me than any thing -else, and, under Providence, was the means of -saving my life. After encountering a strong gale of -wind, which we rode out in a deep bay for three days, -we at last reached the opium station at Namoa.</p> - -<p><i>Namoa</i> is the name of a small island about half -way between Hong-kong and Amoy, and is well -known as one of the stations where the contraband -trade in opium is carried on between foreign -vessels and the Chinese smugglers. At this -time I was fresh from England, and full of all the -notions which we form there of the sacredness of -the Chinese empire. I then thought that, although -I might perhaps get a view of the celestial country, -no barbarian feet would be allowed to pollute the -sacred soil. Great was my surprise and pleasure -when I found the captains of vessels wandering -about all over the island unmolested. They had -made roads to a considerable extent, and had built -a cottage as a sort of smoking lodge when they -landed in the evenings for recreation. They had -also erected stables, and had small Chinese ponies -for riding all over the island; in fact, they seemed -quite the lords of the soil, and were not subjected -to the least annoyance from the natives.</p> - -<p>Hundreds of Chinamen gather round this spot, -where they have erected huts and a bazaar, or -market, for supplying the shipping, and, what appears -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>not a little strange to European eyes, whenever -the ships move to any other anchorage in the -vicinity, the whole of the inhabitants, houses, market, -and all, move along with them, so easily do -these individuals change about from one place to -another. One of the captains informed me that it -was in contemplation to leave that particular spot -shortly, and that if I happened to visit it a day -or two after this event, all the motley groups -would be gone, and the place entirely deserted. -Nor was this statement at all exaggerated, for -on my return a few months afterwards, the change -of station had taken place, and not a vestige of -the little village remained: men, women, and children, -with their huts, boats, and all that belonged -to them, had followed the ships, and had again -squatted opposite to them on the beach.</p> - -<p>The different modes which these people have of -obtaining a livelihood are really astonishing: with -one of these I was particularly struck. There are -boats of all kinds engaged in bringing off stock, -such as ducks, fowls, and other things, to the ships; -but one kind consisted only of five or six thick -pieces of bamboo fastened together in the form of -a raft, and with this the poor fellows paddled -along with two oars, the water washing all over the -raft, and frequently also over its contents. The -fowls which some of these people brought off were -in a most pitiable plight, and certainly could not -exist long in such a state.</p> - -<p>A few months after this time a complaint was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>made to Sir Henry Pottinger, then governor of -Hong-kong, by the Chinese authorities regarding -this state of affairs at Namoa. It set forth that -the subjects of Her Britannic Majesty had built -houses, made roads, and in fact were making -another Hong-kong at the island of Namoa, which, -according to the treaty, they had no right to do. -The old Chinese admiral, who had shut his eyes to -all these irregular proceedings, had been removed, -and another, remarkable for his <i>prowess and -bravery</i> in the suppression of piracy on that coast! -had been appointed to this station, and it was the -latter with whom the complaint originated. Sir -Henry Pottinger acknowledged the irregularity of -the proceeding, but blamed the Chinese authorities -for allowing it for such a length of time, and -claimed a period of six months to give time for -the sale or removal of any articles the English -might have on shore. This was agreed to on the -part of the Chinese.</p> - -<p>And now comes the part of the business, which -so nicely illustrates the peculiar character of the -Chinese. When I visited Namoa, in October, 1845, -I made enquiry regarding the state of affairs on -shore, and found that a little civility and a few -bottles of cherry brandy had wonderfully softened -the good old admiral, and that a communication -had been received stating that some little show -of compliance was actually necessary: they must -pull down the house, for example, but the stables -and horses might remain as before, and the captains -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>might go on taking their accustomed exercise and -recreation on the island, as they had been in the -habit of doing. It was even hinted that no objection -would be made to their putting up another -cottage, if they chose to do so. In the mean time, -a fine account had doubtless gone to Peking, showing -how the barbarians had been driven from the -island which they had dared to set foot upon: -perhaps a battle had been fought, and a few of our -ships and their crews taken and destroyed, which -would give a certain amount of éclat to the affair. -This is the way things are managed in China! -Matters being in this state, I had no difficulty in -prosecuting my botanical researches amongst the -hills. These hills are of the same barren nature as -those formerly noticed, and the natural productions, -both in the animal and vegetable kingdoms, resemble -those of Hong-kong.</p> - -<p>The island of Namoa is about fifteen miles long, -and of irregular breadth; in some places about -five miles. The principal town is situated on the -northern side, having a very fine bay, swarming -with fishing-boats; indeed the whole of the coasts -of this celebrated country are studded with small -sailing boats belonging to fishermen, who seem to be -a most industrious and hard-working race of men: -many of them, in this island, go perfectly naked, a -practice which I have not observed so common in -any other part of China.</p> - -<p>Leaving Namoa, and sailing up the coast towards -Amoy, the stranger is continually struck with the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>barren rocky nature of the coast, and in some parts -has a view of hills of sand, the particles of which, -when a hurricane blows, mix with the wind, -and whiten the ropes of vessels, and render it -most unpleasant to be in the vicinity. Here and -there he has a view of what appear to be rather -fertile plains amongst the hills, cultivated with -sweet potatoes, rice and the other staple productions -of the country. On the top of the highest -hills along the coast, and as far as the eye can -reach inland, pagodas are seen towering, which -serve as excellent marks to the mariner as he sails -along the shores. As we approached nearer to -Amoy we passed Chapel Island, remarkable for -having a large natural tunnel right through its -centre, which has a most striking and curious -appearance when vessels come in a line with it. -In the afternoon we anchored in the harbour of -Amoy between that island and Koo-lung-soo.</p> - -<p>Amoy is a city of the third class, seven or -eight miles in circumference, and densely populated. -It is one of the filthiest towns which I -have ever seen, either in China or elsewhere; worse -even than Shanghae, and that is bad enough. When -I was there in the hot autumnal months, the -streets, which are only a few feet wide, were -thatched over with mats to protect the inhabitants -from the sun. At every corner the itinerant -cooks and bakers were pursuing their avocations, -and disposing of their delicacies; and the odours -which met me at every point were of the most -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>disagreeable and suffocating nature. The suburbs -are rather cleaner than the city; but as it is not -customary to use carriages of any kind in this part -of China, the roads are narrow.</p> - -<p>It is from this place and the adjacent coast -that the best and most enterprising Chinese sailors -come. Many, or rather most of those who -emigrate to Manila, Singapore, and other parts -of the straits are natives of Amoy and the coast -of Fokien, and hence this place has generally -been the head-quarters of the foreign junk trade. -During the war it was remarked by our officers, -that the merchants here showed more knowledge -of English customs than those at other places did, -and all were acquainted with our settlement at -Singapore, and spoke highly of it.</p> - -<p>Since this port has been thrown open several -foreign merchants have established themselves, and -the trade, although small when compared with that -of the more northern port of Shanghae, is still considerable. -Indian cotton, cotton twist, long cloths -of English and American manufacture, and opium -seem to be the principal articles of import, if we -except the Straits produce, which is chiefly brought -in their own junks. Since the arrival of the -British Consul the opium ships have been removed -from the harbour, and now lie just outside its -limits, where the Chinese smugglers are allowed to -visit them with impunity.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately for the trade at Amoy, the exports -of which we are most in need—I mean teas -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>and silk—are not so easily brought to it as to the -northern port of Shanghae. This, of course, will -be much against Amoy; but nevertheless it may do -a considerable portion of business in other ways. -All sorts of coins are current here: dollars, rupees, -English shillings and sixpences, Dutch coins, &c. -&c., are all met with, and pass current by weight. -Native gold, in bars, is sometimes brought in considerable -quantities, to pay for the cotton and -opium, and is I believe considered of a very pure -quality.</p> - -<p>During my stay here I was continually travelling -in the interior, going sometimes a -considerable distance up the rivers, and then -landing, and prosecuting my botanical researches -in the adjacent country. Frequently in these -excursions I came unexpectedly upon small towns -and villages, and generally walked into them without -the least obstruction on the part of the natives; -indeed, they seemed in most cases highly delighted -to see me. When the day was hot I would sit -down under the shade of a large banyan-tree, generally -found growing near the houses, and then -the whole village—men, women, and children, -would gather around, gazing at me with curiosity -not unmixed with fear, as if I were a -being from another world. Then one would begin -to examine my clothes, another would peep into -my pockets, while several others were examining -my specimens. The general opinion seemed -to be that I was a medical man, and in a very -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>short time I was surrounded with invalids of all -classes and ages, begging assistance and advice. -The number of persons who are diseased in a -Chinese village is really astonishing. Many of -them are nearly blind, and a much greater number, -in this part of the country at least, were -affected with cutaneous diseases of the most loath-some -description; originating probably in their -peculiar diet, and dirty habits.</p> - -<p>I was one day travelling amongst the hills in the -interior of the island in places where I suppose no -Englishman had ever been before. The day was -fine, and the whole of the agricultural labourers -were at work in the fields. When they first saw -me, they seemed much excited, and from their gestures -and language I was almost inclined to think -them hostile. From every hill and valley they -cried "Wyloe-Fokei," or "Wyloe-san-pan-Fokei," -that is, "Be off to your boat, friend;" but on -former occasions I had always found that the -best plan was to put a bold face on the matter -and walk in amongst them, and then try to get -them into good humour. In this instance the plan -succeeded admirably: we were in a few minutes -excellent friends; the boys were running in all -directions gathering plants for my specimen-box, -and the old men were offering me their bamboo-pipes -to smoke. As I got a little nearer to the -village, however, their suspicions seemed to return, -and they evidently would have been better pleased, -had I either remained where I was, or gone back -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>again. This procedure did not suit my plans, and -although they tried very hard to induce me to -"wyloe" to my "san-pan," it was of no use. They -then pointed to the heavens, which were very black -at the time, and told me that it would soon be a -thunder-storm, but even this did not succeed. As -a last resource, when they found that I was not -to be turned out of my way, some of the little -ones were sent on before to apprize the villagers -of my approach, and when I reached the village, -every living thing, down even to the dogs and pigs, -were out to have a peep at the "Fokei." I soon -put them all, the dogs excepted<a name="FNanchor_1_2" id="FNanchor_1_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_2" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, in the best possible -humour, and at last they seemed in no hurry -to get rid of me. One of the most respectable -amongst them, seemingly the head man of the village, -brought me some cakes and tea, which he politely -offered me. I thanked him and began to eat. The -hundreds who now surrounded me were perfectly -delighted. "He eats and drinks like ourselves," -said one; "Look," said two or three behind me -who had been examining the back part of my head -rather attentively, "look here, the stranger has no -tail;" and then the whole crowd, women and children -included, had to come round me, to see if it was -really a fact, that I had no tail. One of them, -rather a dandy in his way, with a noble tail of his -own, plaited with silk, now came forward, and taking -off a kind of cloth, which the natives here wear -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>as a turban, and allowing his tail to fall gracefully -over his shoulders, said to me in the most triumphant -manner, "<i>look at that.</i>" I acknowledged -it was very fine, and promised if he would allow -me to cut it off, I would wear it for his sake. He -seemed very much disgusted at the idea of such a -loss, and the others had a good laugh at him.</p> - -<p>The hills in this part of the country are more -barren than any I ever recollect to have seen either -before or since; consisting entirely of bare rocks -and gravelly sand, as hard and as solid as stone, -with scarcely a vestige of vegetation. In height -they vary from five hundred to two thousand feet -above the level of the sea. Further inland the -ground is more level: it is also much more -fertile, and yields good crops of rice, sweet potatoes -and earth-nut, besides a considerable quantity of -ginger and sugar.</p> - -<p>The island of Koo-lung-soo is situated opposite -to the town of Amoy, and commands it. At the -time of the war this island was taken by the English -troops, and occupied until the spring of 1845, -when the Chinese paid a part of the ransom money, -and it was again placed in their hands. It is -scarcely two miles long, and of irregular breadth, -and seems to have been, before the war, the residence -of some of the principal inhabitants in this -part of the country. Most of the houses on the -island are in ruins, but their remains show what -they were, and prove the wealth of their former -residents. I could not look upon the ruined -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>walls, the pretty fish-ponds, all overgrown with -weeds and filled up with rubbish, the remains of -gardens, ruinous as the houses, without wishing -most sincerely that war, and all its attending calamities, -might long be kept from my own peaceful, -happy home, and soon be unnecessary in every -part of the world. According to all accounts, -the less respectable part of the natives had done -more to make the houses of this island have a -ruinous appearance, than our troops during the -war, by pulling down every thing that they could -possibly carry away and dispose of.</p> - -<p>Some immense blocks of stone (granite) are here -supported naturally on the tops of the hills in the -strangest manner, and are objects of great interest to -the traveller. One, in particular, appears as if -some giant arm had raised it to its present position, -and left it there solely to astonish the beholder in -after-ages, and leave him to wonder not only how it -came there, but how it could remain in its present -position, and, most assuredly, a very small quantity -of gunpowder exploded below it would hurl it -from the hill into the plain beneath. Another -huge rock stands near the entrance of the harbour: -this, however, seems to have been on the point of -giving way, for it is now supported by a mass -of stone-work on one side. The natives have a -tradition concerning this rock, and say that as -long as it stands, the town of Amoy will never -fall before a foreign enemy. Unfortunately for the -prophecy, Amoy, like the rest of the places attacked -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>by the English, was taken, although the rock still -stands as before.</p> - -<p>The island, particularly on the north-eastern and -eastern sides, is very unhealthy: fever and cholera -prevail to a great extent during the south-west -monsoon, and are most fatal. Our troops suffered -far more from the climate, when they had possession -of the place, than from the guns of the -Chinese at the taking of Amoy. In the autumn of -1843, the sickness amongst the officers and men of -the 18th Royal Irish was almost unprecedented: -dismay was painted in every countenance, for -every one had lost his comrade or his friend. It -was dismal indeed. I have known many who were -healthy and well one day, and on the morrow at -sunset their remains were carried to their last -resting-place. The little English burial-place was -already nearly full, and the earth was red and -fresh with recent interments, scarcely a day passing -without two or three being added to the -number of the dead. And yet what was rather -strange, a detachment of the 41st M. N. I. commanded -by Captain Hall, were, officers and men, -all perfectly healthy; they were, however, on a -different part of the island.</p> - -<p>I fear that the more we know of China the more -will be dispelled the notions of its being a healthy -country, which we had formed from the experience -of those who lived in their shaded airy houses at -Macao and Canton. During my rambles on Koo-lung-soo -I stumbled on the tombstones of some -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>Englishmen, who, according to the inscriptions on -them, had been interred upwards of one hundred -and fifty years: their graves had been preserved -during that long period by the Chinese, who seem -to pay great respect to the tombs of the dead. -Lately the stones had been replaced and the tombs -repaired by one of our captains on the coast, who, -for this respectful and praiseworthy act, had acquired -amongst his comrades the name of <i>Old -Mortality</i>.</p> - -<p>In the midst of such rocky mountains and barren -scenery, it will not be expected that I could have -much success in my botanical researches. Besides, -the flora has still much of the same tropical -character as the Canton province. In the gardens -there were several pretty shrubs, but the greater -part of them were well known, such, for example, -as the <i>Jasminum Sambac, Olea fragrans, China -rose, Chrysanthemums</i>, and various other common -species. The hedges and crevices of the rocks -abound in a little creeper called <i>Pæderia fÅ“tida</i>, -very pretty, but having a most disagreeable odour. -There are, however, some very pretty roses on -the island, producing small double flowers of -great neatness and beauty, although destitute of -perfume. These I sent home to the garden of the -Horticultural Society at Chiswick.</p> - -<p>Birds are very rare, and the species most meagre -in number: indeed this may be expected, as there -is no shelter for them. A small Mina with white -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>wings is met with in large flocks; white-necked -crows are common, as well as paddy-birds, Indian -kites, and two or three varieties of kingfishers. -During my stay here I was much assisted by -Captain Hall of the 41st N. I., who was fond of -botany, and well acquainted with the localities of -all the plants in the neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>One day I went in company with this gentleman -and the Rev. Mr. Abele, an American missionary, -to pay our respects to one of the principal mandarins, -and to see his houses and gardens. His -residence is in the suburbs of the town, on the -side of a rocky hill, close to the beach. When we -entered the outer court, we were received by a -number of officers of inferior rank, and conducted -to a kind of office, where, after politely desiring -us to sit down, they offered us their pipes to -smoke, and snuff-boxes, or rather phials of glass and -stone, containing something which was like Scotch -snuff, and rather agreeable. There were two -couches or beds in the room, on one of which I -observed a small lamp burning and an opium pipe -lying by its side, by which I conjectured we had -disturbed an opium-smoker in the midst of his -enjoyment. Tea was immediately set before us, as -is the custom in this country; but it was very -indifferent, and, as Mr. Abele informed us that we -should get much better when we were introduced -to the principal Mandarin, we only tasted it in -compliment to our good friends.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>In a few minutes the Mandarin himself came -to conduct us into a more splendid apartment. -It was a large airy room, one side fitted up with -finely carved cases, in the centre of which stood -a time-piece and some beautiful jars filled with -flowers. I here had an opportunity of seeing the -great veneration with which the Chinese regard -anything that is old. One of these pieces of porcelain, -he informed us, had been in his family for -five hundred years, and had the peculiar property -of preserving flowers or fruits from decay for a -lengthened period. He seemed to prize it much on -account of its age, and handled it with great -veneration. The other side of the room was elevated -a little, and fitted up for the "sing-song," or -theatricals, of which the Chinese, from the highest -to the lowest, are passionately fond. Tea was -soon brought in, in a tea-pot, in the European -fashion, and not in the manner usual amongst the -Chinese; for the custom with them is first to put -the tea into the cup, and then to pour the water -over it, the visitor drinking the beverage and leaving -the leaves in the bottom of the cup—an admirable -mode for such persons as the Aberdeen gentleman, -who, some years since, when coffee was not so common -as it is now, complained that "his landlady -did not give him the thick as well as the thin." -Sugar is never used by the Chinese with their -tea.</p> - -<p>The Mandarin, after making various inquiries -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>about us—what our names were? what our occupations? -how long we had been from home? and -more particularly how old we were?—and after -minutely inspecting our clothes, the coloured waist-coats -apparently gratifying him very much, asked us -to walk out and see the grounds around the mansion. -The house stands near the base of the hill, and the -garden lies behind it: the whole is really pretty; -the large banyan-trees overhanging the walks, -and the huge and rugged rocks forming caves -and shades from the sun. A very fine spring -issues from the hill-side, from beneath a rock. This -water the proprietor praised very much, and we -all drank heartily of it to please him: really such a -spring, in a place like this, is invaluable. A telescope -was brought to us, which he evidently considered -a great curiosity. He placed it upon a large -stone table, carefully adjusting it to the desired -view, and then asked us to look through it; but we -were not accustomed to use the instrument in that -way, and took it up in our hands in the usual -manner. He seemed surprised that we could see -through it this way. After showing us all the -curiosities in the garden, he took us back into the -house, where tea was again set before us, with the -addition of six or seven kinds of cake, which, however -good they may be considered by the Chinese, I -must confess I did not like. I have since tasted -excellent buns and short cakes in Chusan and -Shanghae. After some further conversation, we -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>withdrew, the Mandarin inviting us to renew our -visit as often as we pleased. It was now dark, -and we were lighted to the river with torches, followed, -as usual, by some hundreds of the Chinese, -who were all respectful and civil. Indeed, we -were always honoured with a body-guard of this -description wherever we went.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_2" id="Footnote_1_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_2"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The Chinese house-dog has a great antipathy to foreigners, -and will scarcely make friends with them.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. IV.</h3> - -<p>LEAVE AMOY.—GALE IN THE FORMOSA CHANNEL.—DRIVEN -BACK TO CHIMOO.—CHIMOO BAY.—CHINESE MODE OF -PAYING TAXES.—CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES.—JOURNEY -TO THE HILLS.—CHIMOO PAGODA.—INTERESTING -SCENERY.—ATTACKED AND ROBBED.—MY SERVANT'S OPINION -OF THE STATE OF MATTERS.—GET BACK IN SAFETY TO THE -SHORE.—NOVEL MODE OF CROSSING THE WET SANDS.—NEW -PLANTS FOUND.—THE BAY OF CHINCHEW.</p> - -<p class="p2">Having travelled all over the country adjacent -to Amoy, and completed my researches, at the -end of September I sailed again towards the -Formosa Channel, on my way to our most northern -stations of Chusan, Ningpo and Shanghae. The -Monsoon, however, had now changed from south-west -to north-east, and we experienced very stormy -weather, with strong northerly currents, which, of -course, were directly against us. The vessel was at -last obliged to put into the Bay of Chinchew from -stress of weather, and having sprung her bowsprit -in the gale, it was impossible for her to proceed. -At one time the sea was running so high, and the -vessel plunging so much, that the whole of her -decks were frequently under water. Some idea may -be formed of the storm when I mention that a large -fish weighing at least thirty pounds was thrown -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>out of the sea upon the skylight on the poop, -the frame of which was dashed to pieces, and the -fish fell through, and landed upon the cabin table.</p> - -<p>In a day or two our cargo was got out and put -into another vessel, in which I also embarked, and -we again proceeded on our voyage. This attempt -was even more disastrous than the last, for after -being out for several days, and having got nearly -through the Formosa Channel, we met one of those -dreadful gales so well known to the navigators of -these seas. Our newest and strongest sails were split -to pieces, the bulwarks washed away, and in spite of -the best seamanship, and every exertion, we were -driven back far below the bay from which we -started about a week before. I shall long remember -one of these fearful nights. The poor Lascar -crew were huddled together under the long boat, -to shelter themselves from the wind: the sea was -running very high, and washing our decks fore and -aft, as if we had been a narrow plank tossing on -the waves. I had gone below, and the Captain -had come down for a second, to look at the barometer, -when we felt a sea strike the vessel with -terrible force, and heard a crash which sounded as -if her sides had been driven in; at the same moment -the glass of the skylight came down about -our ears, and the sea forced its way into the cabin. -I certainly thought the little schooner had gone to -pieces; but Captain Landers rushed on deck to ascertain -the damage which had been done, and to try -to repair it. The night was very dark; but he -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>soon found that our weather bulwarks had been -stove in, and the long-boat carried over to leeward -from its place in mid-ships, where it was fixed. -Luckily the lee bulwarks held it fast, otherwise the -boat and the whole of our crew would have been -swept together into the angry foaming ocean, where -no mortal arm could have rendered them any assistance. -Two glazed plant cases filled with plants -from Amoy, which were on the deck, were dashed to -pieces, and their contents, of course, completely -destroyed. In the long voyage from England to -China, even in rounding the celebrated "Cape of -Storms," I never experienced such weather as I met -with on the east coast of China, at the commencement -of the north-east monsoon. After being three -days in the storm, having only as much sail on the -vessel as to steady her, the gale moderated a little, -and we were able to hoist more sail, and make for -the land, which proved to be a place called Chimoo, -which was far below the point which we started -from a week before.</p> - -<p><i>Chimoo Bay</i> is about fifty miles north of Amoy. -It has been an opium station for foreign ships for -some years; and here, even during the war, that -trade was carried on in spite of the mandarins. -The natives of the different towns on the shores of -this bay are an independent and lawless race. An -anecdote was related to me by one of the captains, -which gives a fair idea how things are managed in -this part of the country.</p> - -<p>Some of the opium merchants came on board -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>one of the ships in the bay, and requested the loan -of some guns, for each of which they offered to -deposit a large piece of Sycee silver, which was, of -course, much more than its value; and promised to -return them in a day or two. When asked what -they intended to do with them, they replied, that -the mandarins and officers of government were expected -shortly to levy the taxes, and that the people -were determined not to pay. They said they only -wanted four or five guns for the purpose: these -were granted them; and in a day or two, when they -returned them, inquiry was made if they had been -successful. "Oh, yes," they said: "they had -driven the mandarins over the hills." It certainly -had been no very difficult matter to effect this object.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants in the towns and villages around -the bay are frequently at war with each other; in -this they resemble the borderers of our own -country in ancient feudal times, when "might was -right." As in those days, too, a sort of black -mail is levied, and treaties of peace are concluded, -one of the parties paying a stipulated sum to the -other. This, however, I am sorry to say, is not -the worst trait in their character: they are the -greatest thieves and robbers in existence; as I -myself found to my cost.</p> - -<p>One day I had sent my Chinese servant on shore -with orders to gather all the plants he could -find in a certain direction, which I pointed out -to him before he left the ship; but he returned -to me the next morning with only a few useless -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>things, which he had evidently gathered very near -the landing-place on the shore. I felt much -annoyed at this, and scolded him pretty sharply for -his conduct; but he excused himself by saying, that -he durst not go in the direction to which I had -pointed, as he would have been beaten and robbed -by the Chinchew men. This I did not believe at -the time, and imagined that it was laziness on his -part, for, like most of the Chinese, who receive a -specified sum per month for their services, he was -rather remarkable for this propensity; I therefore -determined to set out myself on the day following, -and give him the treat of a long walk for his misconduct. -The following morning was fine, and I -jumped into a China boat which I had hired for the -purpose, and reached the shore, after being completely -drenched by the breakers, which roll high -along the shores of this bay, and render the landing, -particularly in small boats, rather dangerous. When -I got on shore, and proceeded to walk in the direction -I intended, the boatman and others came -round me, and attempted to dissuade me from -going, by intimating that I was sure to be attacked -by the Chinchew men, and robbed or murdered. -I also saw signs of warfare in the shape of matchlocks -and long bamboo poles, in the hands of the -Chinamen, who, as my servant informed me, were -obliged to carry them in self-defence. I began -to wish, then, that I had brought off from the ship -a few of the crew for protection—indeed Captain -Woodrow kindly offered to send some with me -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>when I set out: however, it was now too late; -and I determined to put a bold face on the matter -and proceed. I set out towards the hills, on one -of which stands the Chimoo pagoda, which I was -anxious to visit on my route, as I expected to get -a good view of the country from its summit.</p> - -<p>Many acres of ground here, all along the shore, -are used for evaporating sea water and forming -salt, which is a great article of trade in China. As -the traveller proceeds inland, the ground, capable -of cultivation, is covered with crops of sweet -potato and earth-nut, which form the staple productions -of this part of the country in the autumnal -months. Between the different fields, one often -stumbles upon the graves of the natives, sometimes -finely ornamented with those half-circular -erections, so common in the south of China, and at -other times without any ornament whatever; this of -course depending upon the wealth of the relatives. -The hills are like those near Amoy, rocky and -barren, having here and there a few wild plants -growing on the sides of the ravines; some of -which, however, are very beautiful. The pagoda, -already mentioned, stands on the top of the -highest hill, and affords an excellent landmark to -the vessels on the coast.</p> - -<p>On my way towards the hills, I was frequently -surrounded by hundreds of the Chinese, and was -evidently considered a great <i>natural curiosity</i>. -The country, although barren, teems with inhabitants; -indeed, I almost thought the very stones -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>were changing into Chinamen, so rapidly did the -crowd accumulate at times. The sight was droll -enough:—here were I and my servant on one -side of some ravine, with our specimen boxes and -other implements gathering samples of every thing -we could find; there, on the top of the other, -stood three or four hundred of the Chinese, of -both sexes, and all ages, looking down upon us with -wonder painted in every countenance. And then, -their features, their manners and costume, were all -so striking to a stranger, that I believe our surprise -and curiosity were mutual. They were generally -civil, but I ran a risk at last of getting into -trouble, on account of a silk neckcloth which I had -on, and to which some of them took a great fancy, -telling me that it would look so well round their -heads—for in this part of China they wear a -handkerchief like a turban. I was much amused -with the various plans they employed to get it from -me: one brought a handful of chillies, which he held -out in one hand, and with the other pointed to the -neckcloth, intimating that he would close the -bargain in that way; another did the same with a -few earth-nuts, and some brought me a few weeds; -all, however, taking care to offer nothing of value. I -began blundering Chinese to them as well as I could, -upon which two of the men ran off to the village as -fast as they could, desiring me to wait until they -returned. I could not divine the reason of this; -but in order to please them, I complied with their -wishes. They soon returned, bringing with them -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>a bottle of sam-shew, or Chinese spirits; which -they supposed I had asked for, and which they now -tendered for the neckcloth, evidently considering -that this offer must be irresistible. The crowd, -however, was now becoming rather too great, and -I walked on towards the hills, and began to ascend -them—a plan which I always adopted when I -wanted to get away from the Chinese, as they are -generally too lazy to follow far, where much exertion -is required. The manoeuvre answered my -purpose, for I was soon left to my own meditations. -When I reached the highest hill on which the -pagoda stands, and looked down on the level plain -over which I had passed, I was at no loss to -comprehend from whence the numbers came by -whom I had been surrounded, as large villages or -towns now met my eye in all directions which had -not been visible when I was on the plain.</p> - -<p>On reaching the pagoda, I was astonished to -find it in a most dilapidated condition, almost -ruinous, although the main part of it, which had -been strongly built, was nearly entire. A few -stone josses or gods—a dome, with a double wall, -containing a winding staircase leading to the different -balconies through which the wind howled -in a most dismal manner, are all that I can particularise -about the pagoda. I went over the -whole of it, and obtained an excellent view of -the surrounding country for many miles on all -sides. As far as the eye can reach, it has the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>same barren and rocky character. No one noticed -or molested me in any way.</p> - -<p>After enjoying the view of the country from the -top of the hills, I again descended to the low -ground by a different way from that by which I -had come; but no sooner did I reach the plain, -than I was again surrounded by the natives. It -was getting late in the afternoon, and my servant, I -believe, felt rather tired, as I had intended he should -when we started in the morning. He now began -to scheme a little, to save himself from walking -any farther than he could possibly help; and as I -sometimes traversed rather wide circular routes in -search of plants, he generally took the nearest way -in the direction in which he knew we had ultimately -to go. A few of the natives now began -to follow me rather closely, and from their manner -I suspected that their intentions were not good; -but as they pretended to take me to some place -where I should see some good plants and flowers, -I allowed them to accompany me, and tried to -keep them all in good humour. We arrived -at last in sight of a large mansion, standing in -a retired part of the country, and I was proceeding -with perfect confidence towards it, when -the Chinamen began to press more closely round -me; and upon feeling a hand in my pocket, I turned -quickly round, and saw the thief running off with -a letter which he had abstracted. As soon as he -saw he was discovered, he threw it on the ground, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>and made off; but when I put my hand into my -pocket, I found that I had lost several things of -more value. This incident stopped my progress, -and made me look about for my servant, whom I -saw at some distance attacked by about eight or -ten of the fellows. They had surrounded him, -presenting their knives, and threatening to stab -him if he offered the least resistance, at the same -time endeavouring to rob and strip him of every -thing of the slightest value, and my poor plants -collected with so much care were flying about -in all directions. I felt that we were in a dangerous -situation, and instantly leaving my pickpockets, -set off to his assistance as fast as I could. -When the Chinamen saw me coming, they all took -to their heels and left him, making off towards -their companions, who were looking on from a -distance. My servant was pale with fright when I -reached him, and very much excited; nor did he fail -to remind me of all he had said the day before. -I felt there was no denying we were in dangerous -company, and that the only thing to be done was -to get out of it as soon as we could. Accordingly -I made straight for the village where we had left the -boat, and my servant took good care to follow close -at my heels. As we approached the landing-place -the boatman came to meet us in high spirits, -saying he had expected us long ago, and was fearful -that the Chinchew men had either robbed or murdered -us. It was now ebb tide, and there was -about half a mile of bare sand to cross, with the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>surf breaking furiously beyond it. The boatman at -first said it was impossible to go to the ship before -morning, and the people of the village promised -me good chow-chow (food), and quarters for the -night. I thanked them for all their kind offers, -but told them that I should be much better pleased -to get on board of the Ka pan with three masts, -as I was to sail to Chusan early next day. Upon -this, a sign was made to some other boatmen hard -by, and immediately all were in motion. A boat -was carried by a number of men across the sands -to the water. I jumped upon the back of a stout -Chinaman, who scampered like a race-horse across -the wet sands, and deposited me in the boat; and -they rowed us through the rolling surf in a -masterly manner. I reached the ship, all safe and -sound, although completely drenched with wet, -but with my opinion of the Chinese considerably -lowered by the adventures of the day.</p> - -<p>Amongst the plants which were nearly destroyed -in the fight between my servant and the natives -were several fine roots of <i>Campanula grandiflora</i>, -which grows wild amongst these hills, and a new -species of Abelia (<i>Abelia rupestris</i>). Both have -ultimately arrived safe in England, and are now in -the garden of the Horticultural Society at Chiswick.</p> - -<p>The bay which bears the name of <i>Chinchew</i> has -also a station for merchants' vessels, a few miles -further north than that of Chimoo. I mention -this place to show the great change which has -taken place in the Chinese since the late war. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>captains of the ships here, as at Namoa, have now -horses to take exercise in the morning and evening.</p> - -<p>A little incident occurred about this time, which -speaks for itself. It was necessary, from some -cause or other, to remove the officers' stable, and -build it on another part of the shore. The men -employed for this purpose, when taking away the -stones from the one place to the other, were stopped -by some natives of the lower order, who took -the stones and appropriated them to their own use. -In going past the site of the old stable a few days -afterwards, our people were surprised to see the -stones all brought back; doubtless through the -interference of some superior officer amongst the -Chinese. This incident shows, I think, that the -mandarins are anxious to preserve peace with the -English, although some people, who pretend to -secret sources of information, assert that in the -interior they are preparing for another war.</p> - -<p>The country, both with regard to vegetation -and general features, is the same as at Chimoo: -I was, however, much struck with the formation of -one part of the main-land near the entrance to -the bay. Part of the hill was rocky, but other -parts were formed by immense banks of sea-sand, -which appear to have been driven up from the -bottom of the ocean by some terrific storm, or -convulsion of nature. Sea shells, stony shingle, -large fragments of rock, as well as sand, contribute -their share in swelling the mighty mass, and all -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>formed a great contrast with the appearance of -every thing around it.</p> - -<p>The natives bear the same character as those all -along the coast in this province—that of thieves -and pirates; but they are the best and most enterprising -sailors in China, and you meet them in -every port you go to. Their trade will be much -injured by the admission of English vessels into -the northern ports.</p> - -<p>I must here notice the great kindness and assistance -which I have always received from the -captains of vessels at these opium stations, who -were always ready to lend me a helping hand, and -forward my views by every means in their power.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. V.</h3> - -<p>LAND AT CHUSAN.—DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND.—TOWN OF -TINGHAE.—AGRICULTURE.—STAPLE PRODUCTIONS.—HEMP -PLANTS.—PALM OF WHICH ROPES ARE MADE.—TREFOIL CULTIVATED -FOR MANURE.—OIL PLANT.—FLORA.—HILLS -COVERED WITH AZALEAS, ETC.—THE TALLOW TREE.—GREEN-TEA -SHRUB.—BAMBOOS AND OTHER TREES.—FRUITS.—YANG -MAI AND KUM-QUAT.—INHABITANTS AND SHOPS IN -TINGHAE.—ENGLISH NAMES ON SHOP DOORS.—A NEW LANGUAGE.—MODE -OF CLASSING FOREIGNERS.—DISEASES OF -THE EYE COMMON.—SALT-MAKING.—METHOD OF PREPARING -THE VEGETABLE TALLOW.—MODE OF HATCHING EGGS BY -ARTIFICIAL HEAT.</p> - -<p class="p2">Our little vessel being sufficiently repaired, we -were able to proceed on our voyage. This time we -were more fortunate, and reached the Chusan -group of islands in ten days from Chimoo. When -we neared the islands, I was delighted with the -change in the aspect of the country; and as we -anchored off Keto Point, waiting for the tide, -Captain Landers kindly allowed me to have the -ship's boat and crew to go on shore. The first -glance at the vegetation convinced me that this -must be the field of my future operations, and I had -then no doubt that my mission would end most -successfully. Here the hills were no longer barren, -but either cultivated, or clothed with beautiful -green grass, trees, and brushwood. I returned to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>the vessel in high spirits, and in a few hours afterwards -we were at anchor in the fine Bay of Chusan.</p> - -<p>Chusan is a large and beautiful island, twenty -miles in length and ten or twelve in breadth at the -broadest part. In approaching it, the view of the -numerous other islands which stud the sea in all -directions, is striking and picturesque, noble mountains -towering above the other land, and fertile -valleys sloping gradually to the ocean. The island -itself is a succession of hills, valleys, and glens, presenting -an appearance not unlike the scenery in the -Highlands of Scotland. At the head of every valley -there are mountain passes, over which the inhabitants -cross when they wish to visit the interior of -the island. The valleys are rich and beautiful, -surrounded by mountains, which in many parts are -covered with trees, and in others under cultivation: -these, in their turn, again open and expose other -vallies no less fertile, rich in vegetation, and watered -by the clear streams from the mountains. Thus -the traveller can visit the whole of the island, his -way winding through valleys and over mountain -passes, until his prospect is at last arrested by the -sea, of which he has had frequent glimpses during -the journey. Did our island of Hong-kong possess -the natural advantages and beauties of Chusan, -what a splendid place it might have been made -by our enterprising English merchants in a very -few years!</p> - -<p>The principal town is Tinghae, well known as the -place twice taken by the English troops during -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>the last war. It is but small, compared with any -of the other five ports where foreigners are now -trading: the walls are not more than three miles -in circumference, and the suburbs not very extensive. -When I was there, the island was in the -hands of the English, being retained by them until -1846, under the treaty of Nanking, and Tinghae -was of course the head quarters of the troops: we -had also military stations at Sing-kong and Sing-kie-mun, -the western and eastern parts of the -island. Major-General Sir James Schoedde, the -officer in command, to whom I had letters from -Lord Stanley, very kindly procured me quarters -in a house within the walls, and I immediately commenced -operations. I was fortunate in becoming -acquainted with Dr. Maxwell, of the 2d Madras -native infantry, who was stationed there. This -gentleman, an ardent lover of botanical pursuits, had -been most indefatigable in his researches, and was -consequently able to give me much valuable information. -He had also made drawings of all the -more striking plants which he had met with on the -island, and I was thus at once put in possession of -information which it would have taken me some -months to acquire in any other way.</p> - -<p>During two years from this date (Nov. 1843), -I had frequent opportunities of visiting Chusan, at -all seasons of the year, and was consequently enabled -to gain a perfect knowledge of the soil, productions, -and flora of the island. The soil of the hills is a -rich gravelly loam; in the valleys it is more stiff, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>from having less vegetable matter mixed with it, -and from being almost continually under water. -The rocks of granite, however, of the same kind -as those noticed on the barren southern hills, exist -here also; and although they are generally covered -with soil and vegetation, they have doubtless been -at some former time as bleak and barren as their -southern neighbours.</p> - -<p>All the valleys and hill-sides are under cultivation; -paddy is the principal crop on the -low grounds, and sweet potatoes on the hills. In -the spring and early summer months, crops of -wheat, barley, beans, peas and maize are grown on -the hilly and rising grounds, the low paddy land -being too wet for such crops. Cotton is also grown -on the island, but the quantity is inconsiderable -it is only for the home use of the small farmers on -whose land it grows. There is a species of <i>Urtica</i>, -both wild and cultivated, which grows about -three or four feet in height, and produces a strong -fibre in the bark, which is prepared by the natives, -and sold for the purpose of making ropes and -cables. Another strong fibre is obtained from the -bracts of a palm-tree cultivated on the hill-sides of -Chusan, as well as in similar situations all over -the province of Chekiang. These articles answer -the purposes to which they are applied extremely -well; but the rope made from the Manila hemp is -of much greater strength and durability. From -the bracts of this same palm the natives of the -north make what they call a <i>So-e</i>, or garment of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>leaves, and a hat of the same material, which they -put on during rainy weather; and although they -look comical enough in the dress, still it is an -excellent protection from wind and rain. In the -south of China the <i>So-e</i> is made from the leaves -of the bamboo and other broad-leaved grasses.</p> - -<p>After the last crop of rice has been gathered in, -the ground is immediately ploughed up and prepared -to receive certain hardy green crops, such as -clover, the oil plant, and other varieties of the -cabbage tribe. The trefoil, or clover, is sown on -ridges, to keep it above the level of the water, -which often covers the valleys during the winter -months. When I first went to Chusan, and saw -this plant cultivated so extensively in the fields, I -was at a loss to know the use to which it was applied, -for the Chinese have few cattle to feed, and these -are easily supplied from the road-sides and uncultivated -parts of the hills. On inquiry I was informed -that this crop was cultivated almost exclusively for -manure. The large fresh leaves of the trefoil are -also picked and used as a vegetable by the natives.</p> - -<p>The oil plant, <i>Brassica chinensis</i>, is in seed and -ready to be taken from the ground in the beginning -of May. This plant is extensively grown in -this part of China, both in the province of Chekiang -and also in Kiangsoo, and there is a great -demand for the oil which is pressed from its seeds. -For the information of readers not acquainted -with botany, I may state that this plant is a species -of cabbage, producing flower stems three or four -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>feet high, with yellow flowers, and long pods of seed -like all the cabbage tribe. In April, when the -fields are in bloom, the whole country seems tinged -with gold, and the fragrance which fills the air, -particularly after an April shower, is delightful.</p> - -<p>The small ox-plough, and the celebrated water-wheel -which is here worked by hand, are the two -principal implements in husbandry; the plough -seems a rude thing, but it answers the purpose -remarkably well, and is probably better for the -Chinese in their present state, with their oxen and -buffaloes, than our more improved implement. An -immense quantity of water is raised with great -ease by the water-wheel, and is made to flow into -the different rice flats with great rapidity. I have -often stood for a considerable time looking on and -admiring the simplicity and utility of this contrivance.</p> - -<p>The flora of Chusan, and all over the main land -in this part of the province of Chekiang, is very -different from that of the south. Almost all the -species of a tropical character have entirely disappeared, -and in their places we find others related -to those found in temperate climates in other parts -of the world. I here met, for the first time, the -beautiful <i>Glycine sinensis</i> wild on the hills, where it -climbs among the hedges and on trees, and its -flowering branches hang in graceful festoons by the -sides of the narrow roads which lead over the mountains. -The <i>Ficus nitida</i>, so common around all -the houses and temples in the south, is here unknown; -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>and many of those beautiful flowering -genera which are only found on the tops of the -mountains in the south, have here chosen less -exalted situations. I allude more particularly to the -<i>Azaleas</i> which abound on the hill-sides of this island. -Most people have seen and admired the beautiful -azaleas which are brought to the Chiswick fêtes, and -which, as individual specimens, surpass in most -instances those which grow and bloom on their -native hills: but few can form any idea of the -gorgeous and striking beauty of these azalea-clad -mountains, where, on every side, as far as our -vision extends, the eye rests on masses of flowers -of dazzling brightness and surpassing beauty. Nor -is it the azalea alone which claims our admiration; -clematises, wild roses, honeysuckles, the -Glycine, noticed above, and a hundred others, -mingle their flowers with them, and make us confess -that China is indeed the "central flowery land." -There are several species of myrtaceous and ericaceous -plants, which are also common on the hills, -but no species of heath has ever been found, and -I believe the genus does not exist in this part of -the country.</p> - -<p>The tallow tree (<i>Stillingia sebifera</i>) is abundant -in the valleys of Chusan, and large quantities of -tallow and oil are yearly extracted from its seeds: -tallow mills are erected in several parts of the island -for this purpose. The <i>Laurus Camphora</i>, or camphor -tree, is also abundant, but no camphor is extracted -or exported from the island. The green tea shrub -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>(<i>Thea viridis</i>) is cultivated every where; but, if we -except a small quantity which is annually sent over -to the main land—to Ningpo and the adjacent towns,—the -whole is used by the inhabitants themselves. -Every small farmer and cottager has a few plants -on his premises, which he rears with considerable -care, but seems to have no wish to enter on its -cultivation on a larger scale. Indeed it is questionable -if it would answer, as the soil is scarcely -rich enough; and, although the shrub grows pretty -well, it is far from being so luxuriant as it is in -the larger tea districts on the main land. The -forests of different varieties of bamboo are very -striking, and give a kind of tropical character to -the Chusan scenery. I do not know any thing -more beautiful than the yellow bamboo with its clean -and straight stem, and graceful top and branches -waving in the breeze: it always reminded me of -our young larch forests at home. The fir tree, -found in the south, is also common in this part of -China: it seems to be an exception to a general -rule, being met with all over the country, and in -every degree of latitude. Here the <i>Cunninghamia -sinensis</i>, another of the pine tribe, is also found in -abundance: it is more rare in the south. Besides -these there are several species of cypress and juniper, -which are always found growing around the -tombs of the wealthy, which are scattered over the -valley and hill-sides.</p> - -<p>In fruits Chusan is meagre indeed. All the -peaches, grapes, pears, plums, oranges, &c., which -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>are brought to the markets of Tinghae in the summer -season, are from the main land. There are, however, -two fruits cultivated on the island, which are -of considerable excellence; the one is called <i>Yang-mai</i>: -it is a scarlet fruit, not unlike an arbutus or -strawberry, but having a stone like a plum in the -centre; the other is the <i>Kum-quat</i>, a small species -of Citrus, about the size of an oval gooseberry, -with a sweet rind and sharp acid pulp. This fruit is -well known in a preserved state by those who -have any intercourse with Canton, and a small -quantity is generally sent home as presents every -year. Preserved in sugar, according to the Chinese -method, it is excellent. Groves of the kum-quat -are common on all the hill-sides of Chusan. The -bush grows from three to six feet high, and, when -covered with its orange-coloured fruit, is a very -pretty object.</p> - -<p>The islands of the Chusan Archipelago having -every variety of elevation and soil, and a large proportion -of the hills and ravines being in a state of -nature<a name="FNanchor_1_3" id="FNanchor_1_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_3" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, I found them not only rich in plants, but -had also the satisfaction of meeting with several -novelties of great interest.</p> - -<p>The natives of Chusan are a quiet and inoffensive -race, and were always civil and obliging to me. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>Like the vegetation of their hills, they are very different -from their countrymen of the south, and the -change, I am happy to say, is for the better and not -for the worse. Doubtless there are thieves and bad -characters amongst them; but these are comparatively -few, and are kept in better check by the government, -the result of which is, that unprotected -property is in a great measure safe, and cases of theft -are almost unknown. The people may be divided -into three classes:—the countrymen or agricultural -farmers and labourers, the shopkeepers in the -towns, and the mandarins or officers of government. -The trade of Tinghae and the other towns seems -to consist chiefly in articles of food and clothing, -and owing to the number of British soldiers who -were there from the time of our taking possession -of the island until it was again handed over to the -Chinese, this trade was of course in a flourishing -condition. Fruits and vegetables were brought in -great quantities from the main land, fish were -plentiful; good sheep were sold at about three -dollars each, and the Chinese even got so far over -their religious prejudices as to keep the market -well supplied with bullocks, which were sold at -prices varying from eight to twelve dollars. It -was astonishing how quickly they got accustomed -to our habits, and were able to supply all our -wants. Bread baked in the English mode was -soon exposed for sale in the shops<a name="FNanchor_2_4" id="FNanchor_2_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_4" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>, and even -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>ready-made clothes were to be had in any quantity. -The tailors flocked from all quarters: a large proportion -of the shops near the beach were occupied by -them, and they doubtless reaped a rich harvest, although -they made and sold every article of dress on -the most reasonable terms. Then there were curiosity -shops without number, containing josses or -gods carved in bamboo or stone, incense burners, old -bronzes, animals of strange forms which only exist -in the brains of the Chinese, and countless specimens -of porcelain and pictures. Silk shops, too, were not -wanting, and here were to be had beautiful pieces of -manufactured silk, much cheaper and better than -could be purchased in Canton. The embroidery -in these shops was of the most elaborate and -beautiful description, which must be seen before it -can be appreciated; this the Chinese were making -into articles, such as scarfs and aprons, for English -ladies.</p> - -<p>The shopkeepers in Tinghae supposed an English -name indispensable to the respectability of -their shops and the success of their trade, and it -was quite amusing to walk up the streets and read -the different names which they had adopted under -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>the advice and instruction of the soldiers and sailors -to whom they had applied on the subject. There -were "Stultz, tailor, from London;" "Buckmaster, -tailor to the army and navy;" "Dominic Dobbs, the -grocer;" "Squire Sam, porcelain merchant;" and -the number of tradesmen "to Her Majesty" was -very great, among whom one was "Tailor to Her -Most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria and His -Royal Highness Prince Albert, by appointment," -and below the name was a single word, which I -could not make out for some few seconds,—<i>Uniformsofalldescriptions.</i> -Certificates from their -customers were also in great request, and many of -these were most laughable performances. The -poor Chinese were never quite at their ease about -these certificates, as they were so often hoaxed -by the donors, and consequently were continually -showing them to other customers and asking "<i>what -thing that paper talkie; can do, eh?</i>" The answer -was probably in this strain—"Oh, yes, <i>Fokei</i>, -this can do, only a little alteration, more better." -Poor Fokei runs and brings a pen, the little alteration -is made, and it is needless to add that the -thing is ten times more ridiculous than it was -before.</p> - -<p>Almost all the natives who come in contact with -the English understand a little of the language; and -as they have also a smattering of Portuguese, Malay, -and Bengalese, they soon mix them up all together, -and draw out of the whole a new tongue, which -the most accomplished linguist would have very -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>great difficulty in analysing. And, what is most -amusing, they fancy all the time that this is capital -English.</p> - -<p>The way in which the Chinese classed the -foreigners on the island was somewhat droll. There -were three degrees of rank which they generally -bestowed upon them,—Mandarins, or, as they pronounced -it, <i>Mandalees</i>, <i>Sien-sangs</i>, and <i>A-says</i>. In -the first class they included all persons of rank holding -government situations, as well as the officers of -the army and navy; the higher being styled "Bulla -Bulla Mandalees," and the lower "Chotta Chotta -Mandalees," corruptions of Hindostan words, signifying -very large and very small. The merchants -were honoured with the title of "<i>Sien-sang</i>" and -the common soldiers, sailors, and the rest of the -lower orders, were all classed under the head of -A-says. The word Mandarin is not Chinese, but -has always been used by the Portuguese at Macao, -as well as by the English, to denote a Chinese government -officer; Sien-sang is a Chinese term, and -signifies master or teacher, being generally used by -the people as a title of respect, in the same way as -we commonly use our word Sir; but <i>A-say</i> is quite -a new appellation. "I say," or "Ay say," is a -very common expression amongst our soldiers and -sailors; and when the northern towns were taken -by us during the war, the Chinese continually heard -our men shouting it out to each other, and naturally -concluded that this was the name of the class to -which the lower orders belonged. It was quite -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>common to hear them asking each other whether -such a one was a Mandarin, a Sien-sang, or an -A-say.</p> - -<p>Cutaneous diseases are less common amongst the -natives here than amongst those in the south of -China, probably owing to the more healthy nature -of the climate. They are, however, dreadfully -affected with diseases of the eye and ultimate -blindness. This is, doubtless, caused in a great -measure by the operations of the native barber, -who, whenever he shaves the heads of his customers, -also tickles their eyes and probes their ears, and -the result is that they become both blind and deaf. -The lashes of the eye, probably also from this cause, -frequently grow inwards, and the hairs rubbing on -the eyeball soon causes inflammation. Many of the -poor natives were cured by my friend Dr. Maxwell, -who, in the kindest and most philanthropic manner, -set apart a portion of every day for the purpose. -They flocked to him from all parts of the island, -submitting cheerfully and without a murmur to -operations of a most painful nature. Many most -remarkable cures resulted from his skill, and his -fame spread not only all over the island, but also -to the main land—to Chinhae and Ningpo,—from -whence numbers came and begged to be admitted -on his lists of patients. One day, when I was -out with the Doctor on a botanising expedition, -as we were passing a small cottage at the foot of the -hills a man and his wife rushed out, and begged us -to enter their humble dwelling. We did so, chairs -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>were set for us, tea was brought, and the worthy -pair thanked the Doctor in the most feeling -and grateful manner for his former kindness to -them. The man had been nearly blind, and unable -to work for his family, when, hearing of the wonderful -English doctor, he came over to Chusan, and -soon received his sight.</p> - -<p>Many of the inhabitants of Chusan and the -neighbouring islands gain their living by making -salt on the shores. Large heaps of clay are -scraped together in winter on the flats close by the -sea; and when the weather becomes warm in summer, -these heaps are spread out, and regularly watered -with sea water several times a day, which quickly -evaporates and leaves a highly saline mixture. -When by this means the soil is completely saturated, -the next operation is to make a filter. This -the natives do by forming a round basin of clay and -mud; in the bottom of this they put a quantity of -straw or grass, and some charcoal or ashes on the -top; they then surround the whole with another -layer of mud, and place a quantity of the saline -earth in the centre. Water is then regularly -poured over this earth, and the particles of salt are -carried down through the filter in a liquid state. -A pipe made of bamboo, which had been placed -below, leads the liquid into a well dug at the side, -into which it comes clear, pure, and highly saline. -This mixture is now carried off to pans, where it is -boiled, until the whole of the water is evaporated. -I cannot say whether the Chinese have any means -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>of purifying the salt. In Chimoo Bay, the natives -evaporate sea water with the aid of the sun alone, -and do not saturate the soil as they do in Chusan; -but there the sea water is perfectly clear. Amongst -the Chusan group of islands the water is yellow -and muddy, being rendered so by the large rivers -which are pouring in their waters from the main -land, and more particularly by the Yang-tse-kiang.</p> - -<p>For the following account of the Chinese method -of extracting the tallow from the seeds of the -<i>Stillingia sebifera</i> I am indebted to Dr. Rawes, of -the Madras army, who was some time resident in -the island of Chusan:—</p> - -<p>"The seeds are picked at the commencement of -the cold weather, in November and December, when -all the leaves have fallen from the trees,—this I -saw at Singkong when out shooting in the Sah-hoo -valley, close by our quarters through the village. -The seeds are in the first place taken to the building -where the process of making the tallow is -carried on, and picked and separated from the -stalks. They are then put into a wooden cylinder, -open at the top, but with a perforated bottom. -This is placed over an iron vessel (about the same -diameter or rather larger than the wooden cylinder, -and about six or eight inches deep) containing -water, by which means the seeds are well steamed, -for the purpose of softening the tallow and causing -it more readily to separate. The furnace I saw -had four or five iron vessels in a row, was about -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>three feet high, four or five feet broad, and eight or -ten feet long. The fire was placed at one end and -fed with the husk of the rice, dry grass, and such -like cheap materials which make a great flame, -and the flue was of course carried directly under the -whole of the iron vessels.</p> - -<p>"When the seeds have steamed ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, they are thrown into a large -stone mortar, and are gently beaten by two men -with stone mallets for the purpose of detaching -the tallow from the other parts of the seed. They -are then thrown upon a sieve, heated over the fire, -and sifted, by which process the tallow is separated, -or nearly so, although they generally undergo -the process of steaming &c. a second time that -nothing may be lost. The other part of the seed -is ground and pressed for oil.</p> - -<p>"The tallow now resembles coarse linseed meal, but -with more white spots in it, and derives its brown -colour from the thin covering over the seed (between -it and the tallow) which is separated by the -pounding and sifting. In this state it is put between -circles of twisted straw, five or six of which -are laid upon each other, and thus forming a hollow -cylinder for its reception. When this straw cylinder -(we may call it so) has been filled, it is -carried away and placed in the press, which is a -very rude and simple contrivance, but which, like -every thing Chinese, answers the purpose remarkably -well. The press consists of longitudinal beams -of considerable thickness, placed about a foot and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>a half, or two feet, asunder, with a thick plank at -the bottom, forming a kind of trough, and the -whole is bound together with iron. The tallow is -pressed out by means of wedges driven in very -tightly with stone mallets, and passes through a -hole in the bottom of the press into a tub, which is -sunk there to receive it. It is now freed from all -impurities, and is a semifluid of a beautiful white -colour, but soon gets solid, and in cold weather is -very brittle. The inside of the tubs which collect -the tallow are sprinkled or dusted over, with a -fine red earth, well dried, which prevents the tallow -from adhering to their sides. It is thus easily -removed in a solid state from the tubs, and in this -condition the cakes are exposed for sale in the -market. As the candles made from this vegetable -tallow have a tendency to get soft and to melt in -hot weather, they are commonly dipped in wax of -various colours, as red, green, and yellow. Those -which are intended for religious purposes are generally -very large, and finely ornamented with -golden characters."</p> - -<p>"The cake, or refuse, which remains after the -tallow has been pressed out of it, is used for fuel, -or to manure the land, and so is the refuse from -the other part of the seeds from which oil is extracted."</p> - -<p>One of the greatest Lions in Chusan is an old -Chinaman, who every spring hatches thousands of -ducks' eggs by artificial heat. His establishment -is situated in the valley on the north side of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>city of Tinghae, and is much resorted to by the -officers of the troops and strangers who visit the -island. The first question put to a sight-seer who -comes here is, whether he has seen the hatching -process, and if he has not, he is always recommended -to pay a visit to the old Chinaman and -his ducks.</p> - -<p>When I set out upon this excursion for the first -time, it was a beautiful morning in the end of May, -just such a morning as we have in the same month -in England, but perhaps a little warmer. The -mist and vapour were rolling lazily along the sides -of the hills which surround the plain on which -the city of Tinghae is built; the Chinese, who are -generally early risers, were already proceeding to -their daily labours, and although the greater part -of the labouring population are very poor, yet they -seem contented and happy. Walking through the -city, and out at the north gate, I passed through -some rice fields, the first crop of which had been -just planted, and a five minutes' walk brought -me to the poor man's cottage. He received me -with Chinese politeness; asked me to sit down, and -offered me tea and his pipe, two things always at -hand in a Chinese house, and perfectly indispensable. -Having civilly declined his offer, I asked -permission to examine his hatching house, to which -he immediately led the way.</p> - -<p>The Chinese cottages generally are wretched -buildings of mud and stone, with damp earthen -floors, scarcely fit for cattle to sleep in, and remind -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>one of what Scottish cottages were a few years ago, -but which now, happily, are among the things that -were. My new friend's cottage was no exception -to the general rule: bad fitting, loose, creaking -doors, paper windows, dirty and torn; ducks, geese, -fowls, dogs, and pigs in the house and at the doors, -and apparently having equal rights with their -masters. Then there were children, grand-children, -and, for aught that I know, great-grand-children, -all together, forming a most motley group, which, -with their shaved heads, long tails, and strange -costume, would have made a capital subject for the -pencil of Cruikshank.</p> - -<p>The hatching-house was built at the side of the -cottage, and was a kind of long shed, with mud -walls, and thickly-thatched with straw. Along the -ends and down one side of the building are a number -of round straw baskets, well plastered with mud, to -prevent them from taking fire. In the bottom of -each basket there is a tile placed, or rather the tile -forms the bottom of the basket; upon this the fire -acts,—a small fire-place being below each basket. -Upon the top of the basket there is a straw cover, -which fits closely, and which is kept shut whilst -the process is going on. In the centre of the shed -are a number of large shelves placed one above -another, upon which the eggs are laid at a certain -stage of the process.</p> - -<p>When the eggs are brought, they are put into -the baskets, the fire is lighted below them, and -an uniform heat kept up, ranging, as nearly as I -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>could ascertain by some observations which I made -with a thermometer, from 95° to 102°, but the -Chinamen regulate the heat by their own feelings, -and therefore it will of course vary considerably. -In four or five days after the eggs have been -subject to this temperature, they are taken carefully -out, one by one, to a door, in which a number -of holes have been bored nearly the size of the -eggs; they are then held against these holes, and -the Chinamen look through them, and are able -to tell whether they are good or not. If good, -they are taken back, and replaced in their former -quarters; if bad, they are of course excluded. In -nine or ten days after this, that is, about fourteen -days from the commencement, the eggs are taken -from the baskets, and spread out on the shelves. -Here no fire-heat is applied, but they are covered -over with cotton, and a kind of blanket, under which -they remain about fourteen days more, when the -young ducks burst their shells, and the shed teems -with life. These shelves are large, and capable of -holding many thousands of eggs; and when the -hatching takes place, the sight is not a little curious. -The natives who rear the young ducks in the surrounding -country know exactly the day when they -will be ready for removal, and in two days after the -shell is burst, the whole of the little creatures are -sold, and conveyed to their new quarters.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_3" id="Footnote_1_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_3"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> This description will scarcely agree with those writers -who inform us that such is the persevering industry of the -Chinese, that every inch of ground in China is under cultivation! -"Facts, however, are stubborn things."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_4" id="Footnote_2_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_4"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> A mode of baking and cooking in use here is ingenious. -A large rice-pan is filled with water, with a fire below it: -upon this is placed a kind of sieve, made of bamboo, and filled -with bread or other articles to be cooked; several of these -sieves one above another have all their contents cooked at -the same time, the steam rising through the lower to the -upper ones. The sides of course fit nicely, and prevent the -steam from escaping, and there is a close cover which fits on -to the uppermost one. Our common brick oven is also in use -here.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. VI.</h3> - -<p>FIRST VISIT TO NING-PO.—THE BRIDGE OF BOATS.—CITY AND -PAGODA.—MEDICAL MISSIONARY.—TEMPERATURE.—CHINESE -MODE OF KEEPING THEMSELVES WARM.—CHARCOAL STOVES.—MY -LODGINGS.—CHINESE GAMBLERS.—DESCRIPTION OF -SHOPS.—SILKS AND EMBROIDERY.—JADE STONE.—COTTON -PRINTING.—ROPE MAKING.—CURIOSITY SHOPS AND CONTENTS.—"FURNITURE -STREET" AND FURNITURE.—BANKING -ESTABLISHMENT.—NO PROSPECT OF FOREIGN TRADE.—TEMPLES, -AND DEVOTION OF SOME OF THE PEOPLE.—DWARFED -TREES.—MODE OF DWARFING EXPLAINED.—MANDARINS' -GARDENS VISITED AND DESCRIBED.—VIEW FROM -NORTHERN HILLS.—AGRICULTURE.—NATIVE FLORA OF THESE -HILLS.—GRAVES OF THE DEAD.—COFFINS EXPOSED.</p> - -<p class="p2">I visited Ning-po for the first time in the autumn -of 1843. It is a large town, situated on the main -land, nearly west from the Chusan group of islands, -on the east coast of China. It stands about twelve -miles from the sea, at the junction of two fine -streams, which by their union form a noble river -capable of being navigated by the larger vessels and -junks. One of these branches runs from the west, -and the other from the south, meeting at Ning-po; -and over the latter the Chinese have constructed a -bridge of boats for the traffic with the suburbs on -the opposite shore. This bridge is a most simple -and ingenious contrivance, consisting of a number -of large boats moored at equal distances across the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>river, forming the basis on which the upper woodwork -rests, and enabling the whole to rise and fall -to a certain extent with the tide. By this means -there is sufficient room under the bridge to allow -fishing and passage boats to pass through at all -times of the tide, providing it is not running too -strong. At spring tides the water rushes through -these spaces between the boats with great velocity, -and sometimes it is next to impossible to get -through.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a id="ill04"></a> -<img src="images/ill04.jpg" width="600" height="355" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">CITY OF NINGPO—BRIDGE OF BOATS.<br />London, John Murray, Albemarle Street.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The city itself is strongly fortified with high -walls and ramparts about five miles round, and the -space inside the walls is almost entirely filled with -houses, in most parts densely crowded together. -There are two or three very fine streets; finer, indeed, -and wider than those of any other Chinese -town which I have visited. A good view of the -city and the surrounding country, as far as the eye -can reach, is obtained from the top of a pagoda -about one hundred and thirty feet high, having a -stair-case inside by which the top can be reached. -(<a href="#Page_84">See following page</a>.) This pagoda is named -"<i>Tien-foong-tah</i>" or the "Temple of the Heavenly -Winds;" it is evidently very old, and, like many -others of the same kind, is in a state of decay. Whenever -I visited this place, the Priests (Budhists) were -always in attendance with their offerings of cake -and tea, for which a small gratuity was expected.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill05"></a> -<img src="images/ill05.jpg" width="450" height="477" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>When I first landed at Ning-po, the British -consul, Mr. Thom, had not arrived, and I was quite -at a loss where to go, or to whom to apply for -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>quarters. Leaving my boat and servant on the -river, I strolled away into the city to reconnoitre, -thinking that something might turn up which I -could use for my advantage. I was soon surrounded -by crowds of the natives, and amongst -them some blackguard boys who had been corrupted -to a great extent by the troops during the -war, but who luckily understood a little of the -English language, and were able to be of essential -service to me. They informed me that there was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>one "<i>Hong-mou-jin</i>"—(red-haired man)—a term -which they apply to all western nations—already in -the city, and immediately led the way to his quarters. -When we arrived at the house, I was surprised -to find a former acquaintance. He was an -American Medical Missionary, and was dressed <i>à la -Chinoise</i>, tail and all complete, but truth compels -me to state that his dress was rather a ludicrous -one. Afterwards when my knowledge of the -Chinese costume was more complete, I have often -laughed when I thought of the figure the little -doctor must have appeared in the eyes of the -Chinese. The large flowing gown which he wore -was almost too fine for a mandarin, while the hat -was one commonly worn by servants and coolies. -The English reader, if he wishes to understand the -strange sort of appearance the doctor presented, must -imagine a London judge clothed in his fine black -flowing gown, and wearing the hat of a dustman. -I recollect one evening after dark going out into one -of the main streets, accompanied by the doctor, to -see an offering which was there presented to the -Gods, and I soon found that he in his Chinese dress -was a greater object of attention than I was in my -English one. How the Chinese laughed and enjoyed -the joke! I had obtained a room in the -same house with my friend, who was visited daily -by great numbers of the Chinese, and who, although -not a very good Chinaman, was most -zealous in the cause of medical missions.</p> - -<p>As the winter approached the weather became -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>extremely cold, and in December and January the -ice on the ponds and canals was of considerable -thickness. The most attractive shops in the city -now, were the different clothing establishments, -where all articles of wearing apparel were lined -with skins of various kinds, many of them of the -most costly description. The very poorest Chinese -has always a warm jacket or cloak lined with sheep -skin, or padded with cotton, for the winter; and -they cannot imagine how the Europeans can exist -with the thin clothing they generally go about in. -When the weather was cold, I used always to wear -a stout warm great coat above my other dress, and -yet the Chinese were continually feeling the thickness -of my clothes, and telling me that surely I -must feel cold. Their mode of keeping themselves -comfortable in winter, differs entirely from ours: -they rarely or never think of using fires in their -rooms for this purpose, but as the cold increases, -they just put on another jacket or two, until they -feel that the warmth of their bodies is not carried -off faster than it is generated. As the raw damp -cold of morning gives way to the genial rays of -noon, the upper coats are one by one thrown off, -until evening, when they are again put on. In the -spring months, the upper garments are cast off by -degrees, and when the summer arrives, the Chinese -are found clad in thin dresses of cotton, or in the -grass cloth manufactured in the country. In -the northern towns the ladies sometimes use a -small brass-stove, like a little oval basket, having -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>the lid grated to allow the charcoal to burn and -the heat to escape; this they place upon their -tables or on the floor, for the purpose of warming -the hands and feet. Nurses also carry these -little stoves in their hands under the feet of the -children. Such, however, is the thickness and -warmth of their dresses, that it is only in the -coldest weather they require them. Little children -in winter are so covered up, that they look like -bundles of clothes, nearly as broad as they are long, -and when the padding is removed in warm weather, -it is difficult to imagine that you see before you -the same individuals.</p> - -<p>I never felt so cold in England as I did during -this winter in the north of China, and yet, as may -be seen from the chapter on temperature, the -thermometer did not indicate a very low degree. -The house in which I lived was so open, that the -wind rushed in at every crevice; the windows -were large, not glazed, as with us, but papered, and -in many places perfectly open. During the day I -got on very well, as I was always out and moving -about from morning until dark. But the long -evenings, with the wind whistling through the -windows, and blowing upon my candle, were dreary -and cold enough.</p> - -<p>To vary the monotony of the scene, as well as to -warm myself, I used frequently to take a stroll -down the main street. The Chinese, as a nation, -are great gamblers; even the poorest of them cannot -resist the temptation, and in this street after nightfall, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>there used to be numerous stalls of oranges, -sweetmeats, and trifling curiosities, at each of which -there were dice of some kind, and a "wheel of -fortune," surrounded by the Chinese in great numbers, -trying their luck with a few copper cash, and -evincing, by their looks and language, the most intense -interest in the stopping of the wheel, or the -throwing of the dice.</p> - -<p>Besides the shops already noticed for the sale of -clothes and skins, there are many others worthy of -our attention. There are a number of excellent -silk shops and warehouses a little off the main street, -which, like our old-established houses at home, -have but little external show to attract notice. -Here, too, are large quantities of that beautiful -northern embroidery which is so much admired by -all who have had an opportunity of seeing it. -It is entirely different from that commonly procured -at Canton, and much more elaborate and -expensive. A considerable demand for articles of -dress which would be fashionable in England, has -induced the Chinese to get them made, and they -are now exposed for sale in all the towns in the -north frequented by the English. Ladies' aprons, -scarfs, shawls, work-bags, and many other articles -made up in the English style, and beautifully embroidered, -are the things most in demand.</p> - -<p>The Chinese estimate their celebrated jade stone -very highly, and here there are numerous shops, -both for cutting it and exposing it for sale, carved -into all those curious and fantastic forms for which -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>this people are so well known. The process of -cotton printing in its most simple and original -form may be seen in most of the streets here, as -well as in other towns in China. Rope-making is -carried on extensively in the suburbs near the -river, and some strong cables and ropes for junks -are made from the bracts of the palm, formerly -noticed, and from the bark of the urticaceous plant, -commonly called hemp by the English in the north -of China. There are, of course, the usual quantity of -curiosity shops, containing bamboo ornaments carved -into all possible forms; specimens of ancient porcelain, -which are said to "preserve flowers and fruit from -decay for an unusual time," lacquered ware, and -other ornaments brought by the junks from Japan, -many beautifully carved rhinoceros' horns, bronzes, -and other articles to which the Chinese attach -great importance, purchasing them at exorbitant -rates, apparently far beyond their value. But what -struck me as being most unique, was a peculiar kind -of furniture, made and sold in a street, generally -called "Furniture Street" by foreigners who visit -Ning-po. There were beds, chairs, tables, washing-stands, -cabinets and presses, all peculiarly Chinese -in their form, and beautifully inlaid with different -kinds of wood and ivory, representing the people -and customs of the country, and presenting, in -fact, a series of pictures of China and the Chinese. -Every one who saw these things admired them, and, -what was rather strange, they seem peculiar to -Ning-po, and are not met with at any of the other -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>five ports, not even in Shanghae. As all this beautiful -work is expensive, it is, of course, only used -in the houses of the wealthy.</p> - -<p>There are some large banking establishments in -Ning-po, having connection with all the other towns -in the north, and it is here, therefore, that the value -of money is regulated, the "stocks" rising and -falling exactly as they do in England. There can -be little doubt that it is a place of great wealth. -There are a large number of retired merchants in -the city and suburbs, who have made their fortunes -in early life, and who now seek to enjoy themselves -amid the luxuries and retirement of Ning-po. But -these circumstances, unfortunately, do not fit it for -a place of active foreign trade; and hence, although -it is large, rich, and populous, our merchants find -the northern port of Shanghae of far greater importance -as regards the sale of European and American -manufactures, and the purchase of tea and silk,—the -staple productions of the country. And yet, judging -from appearances, one would think that a -considerable foreign trade might be carried on at -Ning-po, as it is in itself a large town, is in the -midst of a populous country, and has excellent water -communication with all parts of the empire. Time, -and the perseverance of our merchants, will soon -show whether this supposition is a correct one.</p> - -<p>Many of the temples in this town have been much -admired by foreigners, but I must confess that, to -me, the very best of them had a childish and tinselly -appearance, which I could not admire. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>one called the Fokien Temple is best and most -showy. The Confucian Temple was formerly a -large and celebrated place, but it was nearly -destroyed during the war, and up to the time when -I left China, no attempt had been made to rebuild -it, or put it in a state of repair: the Chinese seemed -to consider that the touch of the <i>barbarian</i> had -polluted the sacred edifice. The Budhists' temples -are crowded with painted wooden images of their -gods. The "three precious Budhas," the "past, -present, and future," are generally enormously -large, being often thirty or forty feet in height. -To these, and to the numerous small images, the -poor deluded natives bow the knee, burn incense, -and engage in other exercises of devotion. The -traveller meets with these temples, or joss-houses, -as they are commonly called, in all the streets, at -the gates of the city, and even on the ramparts, and -cannot but admire the devotional spirit of the inhabitants, -although he may wish that it was directed -to a higher and purer object. I have often looked on, -when these simple people,—the women more particularly,—seemed -actually, like Jacob of old, "wrestling -with God in prayer," and using various means -to ascertain whether the mind of the Deity had -softened towards them, and granted their requests. -Two small pieces of wood, flat on one side and -rounded on the other, are generally used to accomplish -this end; these are thrown up in the air, and -if they fall on the desired side, it was well; if not, -some more incense was burned, and again and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>again they prostrated themselves before the altar, -and seemed engaged in earnest prayer. Many of -their religious ceremonies have a great resemblance -to those of the Roman Catholic church, and I -remember being much struck on a Sunday afternoon, -when passing out at one of the city gates, by -hearing the sounds of prayer and praise, not unlike -those of the Christian churches of other lands. I -immediately walked into the place from whence the -sounds came, and found, to my disappointment, that -it was one of the numerous temples with which the -city abounds, and that the sounds of praise which -fell upon my ears, were only addressed to the gods -of the heathen. But many of these temples are in -a most ruinous state, and are evidently not so well -supported now as they have been at some former -time. In fact, the town of Ning-po itself, with -all its riches, and all its advantages, has been in -a decaying state for years, and is one example, -amongst many others, of the truth of what I formerly -stated concerning the general state of this -country.</p> - -<p>My first business, when I reached Ning-po, was -to make inquiries regarding the gardens of the -Mandarins, which I had heard something of from -the officers who were there when the city was taken -by the English troops, during the war. I had the -same difficulties to encounter as I had at Amoy, -owing to the jealousy of the Chinese. Ultimately, -however, these too were overcome, and I obtained -access to several Mandarins' gardens and nurseries, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>out of which several new plants were procured, -which proved very valuable additions to my collections. -Here, as at other places, I made many -inquiries after the supposed yellow camellia, and -offered ten dollars to any Chinaman who would -bring me one. Anything can be had in China for -dollars! and it was not long before two plants were -brought to me, one of which was said to be light -yellow, and the other as deep a colour as the double -yellow rose. Both had flower-buds upon them, but -neither were in bloom. I felt quite certain that the -Chinaman was deceiving me, and it seemed foolish -to pay such a sum for plants which I should in all -probability have to throw away afterwards; and yet -I could not make up my mind to lose the chance, -slight as it was, of possessing the <i>yellow camellia</i>. -And the rogue did his business so well. He had a -written label stuck in each pot, and <i>apparently</i> the -writing and labels had been there for some years. -I fancied I was as cunning as he was, and requested -him to leave the plants and return on the following -morning, when he should have an answer. In the -meantime I asked a respectable Chinese merchant -to read the writing upon the labels. All was correct; -the writing agreed with what the man had -told me; namely, that one of the plants produced -light yellow blooms, and the other deep yellow. -"Did you ever see a camellia with yellow flowers?" -I inquired of my friend the merchant. "No," said -he, in his broken English. "<i>My never have seen he, -my thinkie no have got</i>" On the following morning -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>the owner of the plant presented himself, and asked -me if I had made up my mind upon the subject. -I told him that I would take the plants to Hong-kong, -where I was going at the time; that they -would soon flower there; and that, if they proved -<i>yellow</i>, he should have his money. This, however, -he would not consent to; and at last we compromised -the matter, I agreeing to pay half the money -down, and the other half when the plants flowered, -providing they were "true." On these conditions -I got the camellias, and took them with me to -Hong-kong. It is almost needless to say that when -they flowered there was nothing yellow about them -but the stamens, for they were both semi-double -worthless kinds.</p> - -<p>The gardens of the Mandarins in the city of -Ning-po are very pretty and unique; they contain -a choice selection of the ornamental trees and shrubs -of China, and generally a considerable number of -dwarf trees. Many of the latter are really curious, -and afford another example of the patience and -ingenuity of this people. Some of the specimens -are only a few inches high, and yet seem hoary -with age. Not only are they trained to represent -old trees in miniature, but some are made to resemble -the fashionable pagodas of the country, and -others different kinds of animals, amongst which -the deer seems to be the favourite. Junipers are -generally chosen for the latter purpose, as they -can be more readily bent into the desired form; -the eyes and tongue are added afterwards, and the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>representation altogether is really good. One of the -Mandarins of Ning-po, anxious, I suppose, to confer -some mark of especial favour upon me, presented -me with one of these animals,—plants, I should say;—but -as it was of no real use to me, and as my -collections of other things were large, I was obliged -to decline his present, which he evidently considered -of great value, and no doubt wondered at my want -of taste.</p> - -<p>Another example will show the passion which -exists amongst the Chinese for things of this kind. -When I was travelling on the hills of Hong-kong, a -few days after my first arrival in China, I met with -a most curious dwarf <i>Lycopodium</i>, which I dug up -and carried down to Messrs. Dent's garden, where -my other plants were at the time. "Hai-yah," said -the old compradore, when he saw it, and was quite -in raptures of delight. All the other coolies and -servants gathered round the basket to admire this -curious little plant. I had not seen them evince so -much gratification since I showed them the "old -man Cactus" (<i>Cereus senilis</i>), which I took out from -England, and presented to a Chinese nurseryman at -Canton. On asking them why they prized the -Lycopodium so much, they replied, in Canton -English, "<i>Oh, he too muchia hemdsome; he grow -only a leete and a leete every year; and suppose he be -one hundred year oula, he only so high</i>" holding up -their hands an inch or two higher than the plant. -This little plant is really very pretty, and often -naturally takes the very form of a dwarf tree in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>miniature, which is doubtless the reason of its being -such a favourite with the Chinese.</p> - -<p>The dwarfed trees of the Chinese and Japanese -have been noticed by every author who has written -upon these countries, and all have attempted to -give some description of the method by which the -effect is produced. The process is in reality a -very simple one, and is based upon one of the -commonest principles of vegetable physiology. We -all know that any thing which retards in any way -the free circulation of the sap, also prevents to a -certain extent the formation of wood and leaves. -This may be done by grafting, by confining the -roots, withholding water, bending the branches, or -in a hundred other ways which all proceed upon -the same principle. This principle is perfectly understood -by the Chinese, and they make nature subservient -to this particular whim of theirs. We are -told that the first part of the process is to select the -very smallest seeds from the smallest plants, which -is not at all unlikely, but I cannot speak to the -fact from my own observation. I have, however, -often seen Chinese gardeners selecting suckers and -plants for this purpose from the other plants which -were growing in their garden. Stunted varieties -were generally chosen, particularly if they had the -side branches opposite or regular, for much depends -upon this; a one-sided dwarf tree is of no value in -the eyes of the Chinese. The main stem was then -in most cases twisted in a zigzag form, which -process checked the flow of the sap, and at the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>same time encouraged the production of side -branches at those parts of the stem where they -were most desired. When these suckers had -formed roots in the open ground, or kind of nursery -where they were planted, they were looked -over and the best taken up for potting. The same -principles, which I have already noticed, were still -kept in view, the pots used being narrow and -shallow, so that they held but a small quantity of -soil compared with the wants of the plants, and no -more water being given than what was barely -sufficient to keep them alive. Whilst the branches -were forming, they were tied down and twisted in -various ways; the points of the leaders and strong -growing ones were generally nipped out, and every -means were taken to discourage the production of -young shoots which were possessed of any degree -of vigour. Nature generally struggles against this -treatment for a while, until her powers seem in a -great measure exhausted, when she quietly yields -to the power of art. The Chinese gardener, however, -must be ever on the watch, for should the -roots of his plants get through the pots into the -ground, or happen to be liberally supplied with -moisture, or should the young shoots be allowed to -grow in their natural position for a short time, the -vigour of the plant which has so long been lost -will be restored, and the fairest specimen of Chinese -dwarfing destroyed. Sometimes, as in the case of -peach and plum trees, which are often dwarfed, the -plants are thrown into a flowering state, and then, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>as they flower freely year after year, they have -little inclination to make vigorous growth. The -plants generally used in dwarfing are pines, junipers, -cypresses, bamboos, peach and plum trees, and a -species of small-leaved elm.</p> - -<p>Amongst the Mandarins' gardens, in the city of -Ning-po, there is one in particular which is generally -visited by all strangers, and is much admired. It -is situated near the lake in the centre of the city. -The old man to whom it belongs has long retired -from trade with an independent fortune, and he -now enjoys his declining years in the peaceful -pursuits of gardening, and is passionately fond of -flowers. Both his house and garden are unique in -their way, but they are most difficult to describe, -and must be seen to be appreciated. In this part -of the country the building of artificial rockwork -is so well understood, that the resemblance to -nature is perfect, and it forms a principal feature -in every garden. This old gentleman has the -different parts of his house joined together by rude-looking -caverns, and what at first sight appears -to be a subterraneous passage, leading from room -to room, through which the visitor passes to the -garden, which lies behind the house. The small -courts, of which a glimpse is caught in passing -through, are fitted up with this rockwork; dwarf -trees are planted here and there in various places, -and creepers hang down naturally and gracefully -until their ends touch the little ponds of water -which are always placed in front of the rockwork. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>These small places being passed, we are again led -through passages like those already noticed, when -the garden, with its dwarf trees, vases, rockwork, -ornamental windows, and beautiful flowering shrubs, -is suddenly opened to the view.</p> - -<p>It must be understood, however, that all which -I have now described is very limited in extent, but -the most is made of it by windings and glimpses -through rockwork, and arches in the walls, as well -as by hiding the boundary with a mass of shrubs -and trees.</p> - -<p>Here old Dr. Chang—I believe that was his -name—was spending the evening of his days in -peaceful retirement. When I called upon him he -was extremely polite, and, after making a great -many very low bows, requested me to take the seat -of honour by his side. The servants were then -ordered to bring tea, a beverage which is offered to -every stranger, and which was of the very finest -description. Messengers were sent round to all -the old man's particular friends, who each hurried -to see the foreigner. One by one they dropt in, -until the room was nearly full. The servants, who -seemed to think themselves quite as good as their -masters, mixed with the company, and made their -remarks upon me with the greatest freedom. Every -thing about me was examined and criticised most -minutely, particularly my watch, which they seemed -to admire very much. I was frequently requested, -as a great favour, to allow them to see the works, -and to hold it to their ears, in order that they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>might hear the sound which it made. The old -mandarin now led me round his house, and showed -me all the curiosities which it contained, and of -which he was a great collector. Old bronzes, -carved woods, specimens of porcelain, and other -articles of that kind, were arranged with great -taste in several of the rooms. From the house we -proceeded to the garden, but as it was winter, and -the trees leafless, I could form but little idea of the -rarity or beauty of the plants which it contained. -I took my leave, after drinking some more tea, -promising to visit the old man again whenever I -returned to Ning-po.</p> - -<p>I visited also at this time several other Mandarins -who had gardens, and from all of them I -received the greatest civility. Some small articles -which I brought out with me as presents were of -the greatest use, not only in procuring me a civil -reception, but also in enabling me to get plants or -cuttings of rare species which were only found in -the gardens of the rich, and which, of course, were -not for sale.</p> - -<p>The level plain on which the city of Ning-po is -built is at least thirty miles across, surrounded on -all sides by a circle of hills, but opening on the east -to the sea, where the town of Chinhae stands, and -forms, as it were, the sea-port town of Ning-po. -The view from the hills is very fine—the broad -extensive plain forming, as it were, a vast amphitheatre, -traversed by beautiful winding rivers and -by canals in all directions; thus enabling the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>natives to convey the produce of their country and -its merchandise to Ning-po, and from thence to -Hang-chow-foo, and any other part of the world. -Rice is the staple production of the low land in -this part of the country during the summer months, -and the oil plant is cultivated extensively on the -same land in winter and spring, being in seed and -ready to harvest by the time for sowing the first -crop of rice. Large quantities of the trefoil which -I have noticed before are also grown here, and for -the same purposes; indeed, the agricultural productions, -both of the low lands and on the sides of the -hills, are really the same as those formerly described -on the island of Chusan.</p> - -<p>The native flora of the hills to the north of -Ning-po is nearly the same as that found on -Chusan and the neighbouring islands, but more -extensive. It is a curious fact, that I always found -the main land of China more productive in species -of animals and plants than the neighbouring -islands, although these islands were large, and -only separated from the main land by a narrow -extent of sea. I met here, for the first time in a -wild state, the beautiful yellow <i>Azalea sinensis</i>. -These hills are somewhat more barren than most -of the others in this part of the country, and there -are few trees on them of any size. They are very -different from those which I have yet to describe, -a few miles to the south of Ning-po.</p> - -<p>The graves of the dead are scattered all over the -plain, and give the stranger a good idea of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>immense population of the country. In travelling -from Ning-po to the hills, I could not account for -the vast number of tombs which I met with on my -way; but when I reached the summit of the hills, -and looked down upon the wide-spreading plain, -covered with towns and villages in all directions, -densely peopled with human beings, it was easily -accounted for. Here, as at Chusan and Shanghae, -the traveller is continually coming upon coffins -placed on the surface of the ground, and in many -instances decaying, and exposing the skeleton remains -of the dead. I was much struck by frequently -meeting with large numbers of coffins -piled one above another, in heaps of from thirty to -forty, chiefly those of young children. I was told -that they are buried periodically, but from their -appearance many of them must have remained in -the same place for years, and their tenants must -long ago have mouldered into dust.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h3>CHAP. VII.</h3> - -<p>REMARKS ON THE CHINESE LANGUAGE.—ICE-HOUSES NEAR -NING-PO DESCRIBED.—THEIR SIMPLICITY AND UTILITY.—NOVEL -MODES OF FISHING.—FISHING CORMORANTS MET WITH.—THEIR -ACTIONS DESCRIBED.—TWO PAIRS PURCHASED.—ACCOUNT -OF THEIR FOOD AND HABITS.</p> - -<p class="p2">In sailing up the river towards <i>Ning-po</i>, I observed -a great number of thatched houses, and desired -my Chinese servant to go to the boatman and -inquire what they were. He went immediately to -the man at the helm, and, after a conversation of at -least ten minutes' duration, came back hanging his -head, and slunk away without reporting the result -of his inquiries. "Well," said I, "what is the use -of all these houses which we now see on the shore?" -With all the gravity in the world, he replied that -the boatman said they were places built to keep -Chinese soldiers in during the cold winter months. -"Nonsense," said I, "they cannot fill all these places -with soldiers." "<i>Well,</i>" said he, "<i>he have talkie my -so fashion.</i>" As I could not conceive this to be -true, I went to the man myself, and with the little -knowledge of the language which I then possessed, -soon found out that the buildings in question were -ice-houses, for which commodity, he informed me, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>there was a great demand daring the summer -months. This shows that the Chinese language -differs so much in different provinces, that a native -of Canton and another in the north cannot understand -each other: and indeed this is so much the -case, that my Macao servant was almost entirely -useless to me in the north, in so far as the language -was concerned. In this instance the Chinese word -"<i>Ping</i>"—or I should rather say sound—means -both soldier and ice, and it immediately struck my -servant, who I suppose had never seen ice in his -life, that the buildings in question were soldiers' -houses instead of ice-houses; rather cold barracks, -I should think.</p> - -<p>I was much struck with the simplicity of the -construction of these ice-houses, and my only doubt -about them was whether or not the ice would keep -well in them throughout the hot summer months. -The results of my investigation I sent in the following -letter to Professor Lindley, who published it in -the "Gardener's Chronicle" for 1845:—</p> - -<p>"A short time before I left England, you -published in the 'Gardener's Chronicle' a number -of letters and plans for the construction of ice-houses, -but, as far as I can remember, nothing at -all resembling the Chinese one which I shall now -describe to you. On the right bank of the Ning-po -river, above the town and fort of Chinhae, and in -various other parts of the north of China, I have -met with these ice-houses. When I inspected them -for the first time last winter (1843), their construction -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>and situation differed so much from what I -had been accustomed to see at home,—differing, -too, in things which I -used to consider as -indispensable to an -ice-house,—that I had -great doubts regarding -their efficiency; but at -the present time, which -is now the end of -August, 1844, many of -these houses are yet -full of ice, and seem to -answer the end most -admirably. You are -probably aware, from -my former descriptions -of the country, that the -town of Ning-po stands -in the midst of a level -plain from twenty to -thirty miles across. -These ice-houses are -built on the sides of -the river in the centre -of the plain, completely -exposed to the sun—a -sun, too, very different -in its effects -from what we experience in England,—clear, -fierce, and burning, which would try the efficiency -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>of our best English ice-houses as well as it does -the constitution of an Englishman in China.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a id="ill06"></a> -<img src="images/ill06.jpg" width="600" height="202" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Ice-houses near Ning-Po.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>"The bottom of these ice-houses is nearly on a -level with the surrounding fields, and is generally -about twenty yards long, by fourteen broad. The -walls, which are built of mud and stone, are very -thick, twelve feet in height, and are, in fact, a kind -of embankment rather than walls, having a door on -one side level with the floor, for the removal of the -ice, and a kind of sloping terrace on the other, -by which the ice can be thrown into the house. On -the top of the walls or embankment a tall span -roof is raised, constructed of bamboo, thickly -thatched with straw, and in appearance exactly -like an English haystack. And this is the simple -structure which keeps ice so well during the summer -months, and under the burning sun of China!</p> - -<p>"The Chinaman, with his characteristic ingenuity, -manages also to fill his ice-houses in a -most simple way, and at a very trifling expense. -Around the house he has a small flat level field -connected with the river. This field he takes care -to flood in winter before the cold weather comes -on. The water then freezes and furnishes the -necessary supply of ice at the very door. Again -in spring these same fields are ploughed up and -planted with rice, and the water which drains from -the bottom of the ice-house helps to nourish the -young crop. Of course here, as in England, when -the house is filled the ice is carefully covered up -with a thick coating of straw. Thus the Chinaman, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>with little expense in building his ice-house, and -an economical mode of filling it, manages to secure -an abundant supply for preserving his fish during -the hot summer months.</p> - -<p>"It now, I think, becomes a question whether we -could not build ice-houses at less expense and more -efficient, upon the Chinese plan, than upon the old -under-ground system common in England. The -accompanying sketch will enable you to form an -idea of the appearance which these ice-houses -present to the traveller, in going up the Ning-po -river. <i>Ning-po, August</i>, 1844."</p> - -<p>Since this letter was published I have had frequent -opportunities of testing the qualities of the Chinese -ice-house, both at Ning-po and also at Chusan -and Shanghae, and I have found that it answers -the purpose admirably. The winter of 1844–1845 -was unusually mild in this part of China; little -or no ice was formed on the ponds and canals, and -of course the ice-houses could not be filled; but -many of them contained large quantities which had -been laid up the year before, and by this means the -market was supplied with ice which had been in -store at least a year and a half, and would probably -have kept some time longer.</p> - -<p>This ice is of great importance to the Chinese, -who depend so much for their food upon the fish -which is caught in their waters. They are enabled -by this means to keep their fish during the hottest -weather for a considerable time, and transmit them -in this way to different parts of the country.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>Immense quantities of fish are daily caught in -the river above the town. Their mode of catching -them is ingenious and amusing. One day I was -going up a considerable distance in a boat, and set -out a little before low water, that I might have the -full benefit of the flow of the tide, and get as far -up as possible before it turned. On the side of the -river, a few miles above Ning-po, I observed some -hundreds of small boats anchored, each containing -two or three men; and the tide turning just as I -passed, the whole fleet was instantly in motion, -rowing and sculling up the river with the greatest -rapidity. As soon as the men reached a favourable -part of the stream they cast out their nets and -began to make a loud noise, splashing with their -oars and sculls, with the intention, I suppose, of -driving the fish into the nets. After remaining in -this spot for about a quarter of an hour, all the -boats set off again, farther up, for the next station, -when the crew commenced again in the same noisy -manner, and so on, for a long way up the river, as -long as the tide was flowing; they then returned -with the ebb, loaded with fishes for the next morning's -market.</p> - -<p>There is another mode of catching fish, which I -have frequently seen in the northern provinces, -even more curious than that which I have just -noticed. Every one acquainted with Chinese history -knows that fish abound in all the rivers and lakes -of the north; indeed, every little pond swarms with -them. I was greatly surprised when I first saw -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>the fish-catcher following his profession in these -places. He is literally amphibious. He is to be seen -perfectly naked, half walking, half swimming; now he -raises his arms and hands above his head, and, bringing -them down, strikes a sharp blow upon the water, -making a loud and splashing noise. His feet are -not idle: they warn him that a fish is at hand, and -they are now feeling for him amongst the mud at -the bottom of the pond. The next moment the -fisherman has disappeared: he is now under water, -and he remains so long that you think something has -happened to him. There is, however, no cause of -fear; a few seconds more and he appears, rubbing -his face and eyes with one hand, and in the other -triumphantly holding up the poor little fish which -he has just captured. It is immediately placed -safely in his basket, and the work goes on as before. -The surface of the water is struck and splashed, -as I have just described, in order to frighten the -fish which are swimming amongst the feet of the -Chinamen. Being frightened, they dive immediately -to the bottom amongst the mud, where they are -felt by the feet, and are soon taken by these expert -divers.</p> - -<p>But the most singular of all the methods of -catching fish in China is that of training and employing -a large species of cormorant for this purpose, -generally called the fishing cormorant. These -are certainly wonderful birds. I have frequently -met with them on the canals and lakes in the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>interior, and, had I not seen with my own eyes their -extraordinary docility, I should have had great -difficulty in bringing my mind to believe what authors -have said about them. The first time I saw -them was on a canal a few miles from Ning-po. I -was then on my way to a celebrated temple in that -quarter, where I intended to remain for some time, -in order to make collections of objects of natural -history in the neighbourhood. When the birds -came in sight I immediately made my boatmen -take in our sail, and we remained stationary for -some time to observe their proceedings. There -were two small boats, containing one man and about -ten or twelve birds in each. The birds were -standing perched on the sides of the little boat, and -apparently had just arrived at the fishing ground, -and were about to commence operations. They -were now ordered out of the boats by their masters; -and so well trained were they, that they went on -the water immediately, scattered themselves over -the canal, and began to look for fish. They have a -beautiful sea-green eye, and, quick as lightning, they -see and dive upon the finny tribe, which, once -caught in the sharp-notched bill of the bird, never -by any possibility can escape. The cormorant now -rises to the surface with the fish in its bill, and the -moment he is seen by the Chinaman he is called -back to the boat. As docile as a dog, he swims -after his master, and allows himself to be pulled -into the San-pan, where he disgorges his prey, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>again resumes his labours. And, what is more -wonderful still, if one of the cormorants gets hold -of a fish of large size, so large that he would have -some difficulty in taking it to the boat, some of the -others, seeing his dilemma, hasten to his assistance, -and with their efforts united capture the animal and -haul him off to the boat. Sometimes a bird seemed -to get lazy or playful, and swam about without -attending to his business; and then the Chinaman, -with a long bamboo, which he also used for propelling -the boat, struck the water near where the -bird was, without, however, hurting him, calling -out to him at the same time in an angry tone. -Immediately, like the truant school-boy who -neglects his lessons and is found out, the cormorant -gives up his play and resumes his labours. -A small string is put round the neck of the bird, -to prevent him from swallowing the fish which he -catches; and great care is taken that this string -is placed and fastened so that it will not slip farther -down upon his neck and choke him, which otherwise -it would be very apt to do.</p> - -<p>Since I first saw these birds on the Ning-po canal -I have had opportunities of inspecting them and -their operations in many other parts of China, more -particularly in the country between the towns of -Hang-chow-foo and Shanghae. I also saw great -numbers of them on the river Min, near Foo chow-foo. -I was most anxious to get some living specimens, -that I might take them home to England. -Having great difficulty in inducing the Chinese to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>part with them, or, indeed, to speak at all on the -subject, when I met them in the country, owing to -our place of meeting being generally in those parts -of the interior where the English are never seen, I -applied to Her Majesty's Consul at Shanghae (Captain -Balfour), who very kindly sent one of the -Chinese connected with the Consulate into the country, -and procured two pairs for me. The difficulty -now was to provide food for them on the voyage -from Shanghae to Hong-kong. We procured a -large quantity of live eels, this being a principal -part of their food, and put them into ajar of mud -and fresh water. These they eat in a most voracious -manner, swallowing them whole, and in many -instances vomiting them afterwards. If one bird -was unlucky enough to vomit his eel, he was fortunate -indeed if he caught it again, for another, as -voracious as himself, would instantly seize it, and -swallow it in a moment. Often they would fight -stoutly for the fish, and then it either became the -property of one, or, as often happened, their sharp -bills divided the prey, and each ran off and devoured -the half which fell to his share. During the passage -down we encountered a heavy gale at sea, and as -the vessel was one of those small clipper schooners, -she pitched and rolled very much, shipping seas -from bow to stern, which set every thing on her -decks swimming. I put my head out of the cabin-door -when the gale was at its height, and the first -thing I saw was the cormorants devouring the eels, -which were floating all over the decks. I then -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>knew that the jar must have been turned over or -smashed to pieces, and that of course all the eels -which escaped the bills of the cormorants were -now swimming in the ocean. After this I was -obliged to feed them upon any thing on board which -I could find: but when I arrived at Hong-kong -they were not in very good condition: two of them -died soon after; and as there was no hope of taking -the others home alive, I was obliged to kill them -and preserve their skins.</p> - -<p>The Chinaman from whom I bought these birds -has a large establishment for fishing and breeding -the birds about thirty or forty miles from Shanghae, -and between that town and Chapoo. They sell at -a high price even amongst the Chinese themselves—I -believe from six to eight dollars per pair, that is, -from 30<i>s</i>. to 40<i>s</i>. As I was anxious to learn something -of their food and habits, Mr. Medhurst, jun., -interpreter to the British Consulate at Shanghae, -kindly undertook to put some questions to the man -who brought them, and sent me the following notes -connected with this subject:—</p> - -<p>"The fish-catching birds eat small fish, yellow -eels, and pulse-jelly. At 5 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span> every day each -bird will eat six taels (eight ounces) of eels or fish, -and a catty of pulse-jelly. They lay eggs after -three years, and in the fourth or fifth month. Hens -are used to incubate the eggs. When about to lay -their faces turn red, and then a good hen must be -prepared. The date must be clearly written upon -the shells of the eggs laid, and they will hatch in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>twenty-five days. When hatched, take the young -and put them upon cotton, spread upon some warm -water, and feed them with eel's blood for five days. -After five days they can be fed with eel's flesh -chopped fine, and great care must be taken in -watching them.</p> - -<p>"When fishing, a straw tie must be put upon -their necks, to prevent them from swallowing the -fish when they catch them. In the eighth or ninth -month of the year they will daily descend into the -water at ten o'clock in the morning, and catch fish -until five in the afternoon, when they will come on -shore. They will continue to go on in this way -until the third month, after which time they cannot -fish until the eighth month comes round again. -The male is easily known from the female, in being -generally a larger bird, and in having a darker and -more glossy feather, but more particularly in the -size of the head, the head of the male being large -and that of the female small."</p> - -<p>Such are the habits of this extraordinary bird. -As the months named in the note just quoted refer -to the Chinese calendar, it follows that these birds -do not fish in the summer months, but commence -in autumn, about October, and end about May—periods -agreeing nearly with the eighth and third -month of the Chinese year.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. VIII.</h3> - -<p>SHANGHAE VISITED AT THE END OF 1843.—MY LODGINGS.—PREJUDICES -AND SUPERSTITIONS OF THE INHABITANTS.—THE -CITY DESCRIBED.—SHOPS AND MERCHANDISE.—FOOD.—AN -IMPORTANT STATION FOR FOREIGN TRADE.—THE EXPORTS OF -THE COUNTRY; TEAS AND SILK EASILY BROUGHT TO IT.—THE -ADJACENT COUNTRY DESCRIBED.—ITS CANALS.—AGRICULTURE.—TOMBS -OF THE DEAD.—TREES AND SHRUBS.—GARDENS -AND NURSERIES.—DIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO THEM.—CUNNING -AND DECEIT OF THE CHINESE.—A CHINESE -DINNER.—THEATRICALS.</p> - -<p class="p2">Shanghae is the most northerly of the five ports -at which foreigners are now permitted to trade -with the Chinese. It is situated about a hundred -miles, in a north-west direction, from the island of -Chusan. The city stands on the bank of a fine -river, about twelve miles from the point where it -joins the celebrated Yang-tse-kiang, or "Child of -the Ocean." The Shanghae river, as it is generally -called by foreigners, is as wide at Shanghae as the -Thames at London Bridge. Its main channel is -deep, and easily navigated when known, but the -river abounds in long mud-banks, dangerous to -large foreign vessels unless they happen to go up -with a fair wind, and manage to get a good pilot on -board at the entrance of the river.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>I visited this place for the first time at the end -of 1843, as soon as the port was opened by Her -Majesty's Consul, Captain Balfour, and took up my -quarters in a kind of bank or government shroff -establishment, in company with two or three gentlemen -who were here for purposes of trade. As -none of us carried a cooking establishment with us, -our meals were necessarily of the roughest description, -neither exactly Chinese nor English, but -something between the two. Our bed-rooms were -miserably cold: often, in the mornings, we would -find ourselves drenched in bed with the rain; and -if snow fell, it was blown through the windows and -formed "<i>wreaths</i>" on the floor. Nevertheless, the -excitement produced on our minds by every thing -around us kept us in excellent health and in good -spirits, and we made light of many things which -in other circumstances we might have considered -as hardships. Whenever we moved out of the -house hundreds of people crowded the streets, -and followed in our wake, as anxious to catch a -glimpse of us as the crowds in London are to see -the Queen. Every door and window was crammed -with men, women, and children, who gazed upon us -with a kind of stupid wonder, as if we had been -inhabitants of the moon, and not the ordinary sons -of earth. The children more particularly looked -upon us with a kind of fear and dread, doubtless -implanted in their young minds by their parents, -who had less or more of the same feelings themselves. -The name we bore—<i>Kwei-tsz</i>, or devil's child—was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>also calculated to produce erroneous impressions, -particularly on the minds of the young, and -make them regard us with superstitious horror. -In these times it was quite common for us to hear -such expressions as the following: "The devil's -children are coming," or "Come and see a devil's -child;" and not infrequently "Kwei-tsz" was called -out to us in derision. Several complaints were -made of this conduct to the British Consul by -parties who believed it to be very bad policy at the -first commencement of the trade to submit to any -marks of contempt, however slight; and strong -remonstrances were promptly made by him to the -Taoutae, or head Mandarin, of Shanghae. This -policy was the very best which could have been -pursued with the Chinese authorities; and the consequence -was, that in a very short time the offensive -appellation was rarely heard in the streets of -Shanghae; and if some little urchin, remembering -the lesson so early taught him, came out with it -unawares, he was immediately rebuked by the -respectable part of the bystanders.</p> - -<p>The following incident shows the kind of superstitious -dread in which we were held by the inhabitants. -A friend and myself were asked to a dinner -given on board one of the vessels in the river, and -as the cabin was much more comfortable than our -cheerless, fireless rooms on shore, we remained until -nearly eleven o'clock. Not only are the gates of a -Chinese town closed after dark, but all communication -even with the streets in the suburbs is cut off -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>by numerous gates and doors, which are fastened -up about ten or eleven o'clock at night. This has -doubtless been a very ancient custom, to prevent -any sudden surprise by an enemy, or by the unruly -populace themselves, and is still kept up in more -peaceful times. When, therefore, we landed, we -found all the gates in the suburbs closed and locked; -and we had to pass through one at least before we -could reach our quarters. Not a sound was heard; -every house was closed; and all that dense multitude -which thronged the street by day had sunk into -repose. "How shall we get through?" said my -friend. "Shake the gate," said I; "perhaps the noise -will bring some one; or perchance, as it seems pretty -old, it may give way." We took hold of the gate -and gave it a good shake, calling out at the same -time for some one to come and open it. The -watchman's light was now seen coming towards us, -and my friend again called out to him to make -haste. At last two men with their lanterns came -up, in that dreamy state which I have already -noticed as a characteristic feature in the Chinese -race, and muffled up with skins, as the night was -very cold. They could not see distinctly who were -on the other side of the door; and, as we mumbled -a word or two of Chinese, they were put completely -off their guard, and supposed we were benighted -Chinamen. The bolts were drawn, the door opened, -and behold, two of the dreaded "red-haired race" -stood before them. I shall never forget their astonishment -when they got their eyes upon us after -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>the gate was opened: and whether they actually -believed us to be beings of another world, or supposed -we had another army at our back to take the -city a second time, it is impossible to say, but quick -as lightning they both turned their backs and fled, -leaving us to shut the gates or admit an army, if -we chose. We walked quietly home, and neither -saw nor heard any thing more of the bold guardians -of the night.</p> - -<p>The city of Shanghae is surrounded with high -walls and ramparts built upon the same plan as all -other Chinese fortifications of this kind. The circumference -of the walls is about three and a half -miles, and the greater part of the inside is densely -studded with houses; the suburbs, particularly all -along the side of the river, are very extensive. Although -the gates of the city are closed soon after -dark, the people are allowed to pass through afterwards -on the payment of a few "cash." When the -gate is opened to one, a whole crowd are ready to rush -through along with him, the first only paying the -"cash." Such is the custom, so that if a poor man -comes to the gate he has only to wait until one -richer than himself arrives, when, the fee being paid, -they pass through together. Joss-houses are met -with in all directions, both in the city and suburbs; -at certain parts on the ramparts, also, these temples -are built and crowded with idols, where the natives -come to burn incense, bow the knee, and engage in -the other ceremonies of heathen idol worship. Fortune-tellers -and jugglers are also in great request, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>and reap a rich harvest by working upon the -credulity of their countrymen. You meet these -characters in all the streets and public squares in -Shanghae, and, what is very strange, the <i>sing-song</i> -or theatricals, of which the Chinese are particularly -fond, are frequently exhibited in the temples. This -is much opposed to our ideas of religion and -propriety; but, somehow or other, the customs of -our Celestial friends are in many instances directly -opposed to ours.</p> - -<p>The streets are generally very narrow, and in the -day time are crowded with people actively engaged -in business. The merchandise, which is the most -striking to a stranger walking through the streets, -is the silk and embroidery, such as I formerly -noticed at Ning-po, cotton and cotton goods, -porcelain, ready-made clothes of all kinds beautifully -lined with skins and fur, bamboo pipes six -feet long and nicely arranged in the shops, pictures, -bronzes, and numerous curiosity shops for the -sale of carved bamboo ornaments, old pieces of porcelain, -and things of that kind, to which the Chinese -attach great value. But articles of food form of -course the most extensive trade of all; and it is -sometimes a difficult matter to get through the -streets for the immense quantities of fish, pork, -fruit, and vegetables which crowd the stands in -front of the shops. Besides the more common -kinds of vegetables, the shepherds' purse, and a -kind of trefoil or clover, are extensively used -amongst the natives here; and really these things, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>when properly cooked, more particularly the latter, -are not bad. Dining-rooms, tea-houses, and bakers' -shops, are met with at every step, from the poor -man who carries his kitchen or bakehouse upon -his back, and beats upon a piece of bamboo to -apprise the neighbourhood of his presence, and -whose whole establishment is not worth a dollar, -to the most extensive tavern or tea-garden crowded -with hundreds of customers. For a few cash -(1000 or 1200 = one dollar) a Chinese can dine -in a sumptuous manner upon his rice, fish, vegetables, -and tea; and I fully believe, that in no -country in the world is there less real misery and -want than in China. The very beggars seem a kind -of jolly crew, and are kindly treated by the inhabitants.</p> - - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a id="ill07"></a> -<img src="images/ill07.jpg" width="600" height="365" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">RIVER AT SHANGHAE<br />London, John Murray, Albemarle Street.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Shanghae is by far the most important station -for foreign trade on the coast of China, and is consequently -attracting a large share of public attention. -No other town with which I am acquainted -possesses such advantages: it is the great gate—the -principal entrance, in fact—to the Chinese -empire. In going up the river towards the town, -a forest of masts meets the eye, and shows at once -that it is a place of vast native trade. Junks come -here from all parts of the coast, not only from the -southern provinces, but also from Shantung and -Peechelee: there are also a considerable number -annually from Singapore and the Malay Islands. -The convenience of inland transit is also unrivalled -in any part of the world. The country, being as -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>it were the valley of the Yang-tse-kiang, is one -vast plain, intersected by many beautiful rivers, -and these again joined and crossed by canals, many -of them nearly natural, and others stupendous -works of art. Owing to the level nature of the -country, the tide ebbs and flows a great distance -inland, thus assisting the natives in the transmission -of their exports to Shanghae, or their imports -to the most distant parts of the country. The -port of Shanghae swarms with boats of all sizes, -employed in this inland traffic; and the traveller -continually meets them, and gets a glimpse of their -sails over the land, at every step of his progress in -the interior. Since the port has been opened these -boats bring down large quantities of tea and silk -to supply the wants of our merchants who have -established themselves here, and return loaded with -the manufactures of Europe and America, which -they have taken in exchange. Our plain cotton -goods are most in demand amongst the Chinese, -because they can dye them in their own peculiar -style, and fit them for the tastes of the people. -From what we know of the geographical nature of -the country, there can be no doubt that all the -green teas, and perhaps the greatest portion of the -black, can be brought to Shanghae at less expense -than they can be taken to Canton, or any of the -other southern towns, except, perhaps, Ning-po; and -as the tea-men incur less risk in taking their money -home from the North, owing to the peaceable -nature of the inhabitants, this will be another -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>very great inducement to bring their teas to -Shanghae. I am aware that people generally suppose -the black-tea districts to be nearer the port of -Foo-chow-foo than either Ning-po or Shanghae; but -it must be recollected that very few of the black -teas now imported to England are from the Bohee -hills, as these teas are considered coarser, and much -inferior in quality to other kinds, which are from -a very different country, much farther to the -north, and on the northern side of the great mountain -range. The large silk districts of Northern -China are close at hand; and there can be no doubt -that a large proportion of that commodity in a -raw state will be disposed of at Shanghae. Taking, -therefore, all these facts into consideration—the -proximity of Shanghae to the large towns of -Hangchow, Soo-chow, and the ancient capital of -Nanking; the large native trade, the convenience -of inland transit by means of rivers and canals; -the fact that teas and silks can be brought here -more readily than to Canton; and, lastly, viewing -this place as an immense mart for our cotton -manufactures, which we already know it to be,—there -can be no doubt that in a few years it will -not only rival Canton, but become a place of far -greater importance. And, when I add that the -climate is healthy, the natives peaceable, and foreign -residents respected, and allowed to walk and ride -all over the country to any distance not exceeding -a day's journey, it will be acknowledged that, as a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>place to live at, it has many advantages over its -southern rival.</p> - -<p>I have already said that this part of China is -a complete net-work of rivers and canals. These -were often most annoying to me in my travels over -the country, when I happened to get off the -Emperor's highway, a circumstance of no rare -occurrence. I have often been obliged to press a -boat into my service much against the will of the -owners, more particularly when I visited this region -for the first time, because I was then unacquainted -with the localities, and the Chinese always seemed -to fear I might take, or rob, their boats if I succeeded -in getting into them, such were the opinions -formed of foreigners at that time.</p> - -<p>One day, in particular, I had been a considerable -distance inland to the westward of Shanghae, and -on my return, by some means or other, I got off the -beaten track, and in pursuing my way, as I supposed -in the proper direction, I was "brought up" by a -large and deep canal. About two miles from where -I stood, I saw a bridge, and, as it was nearly dark, -I made for it as fast as I could. Unluckily, however, -just as I thought my difficulties were over, -being within gun-shot of the bridge, I was again -stopped by another canal, which crossed the former -one at right angles. I was now completely brought -to a stand still, but in a few minutes I perceived a -boat approaching, and a man tracking it on the -same side as that on which we were. As soon as it -came near, we called out to the men on board to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>pull the boat towards us, and allow us to get across -to the other side. They seemed much frightened, -and after making the man who was tracking the -boat come on board, they pulled her into the -middle of the canal, and then sculled away with all -their might. They would soon have passed far -beyond our reach, and left us to feel our way in -the dark, or plunge through the deep muddy canal. -Necessity, they say, has no law. "Call out to -them," said I to my servant, "that if they do not -immediately stop I will fire into the boat and kill -the whole of them," and at the same moment I -fired one of my barrels a little way ahead. This was -quite sufficient. They immediately came towards -us, and put us quickly over to the other side. I -paid them for their trouble, and desired them to be -more civil to the next traveller they might meet in -the same circumstances. They went off in high -spirits, and we heard them laughing and joking -about the adventure long after they had passed out -of our sight.</p> - -<p>As an agricultural country, the plain of Shanghae -is by far the richest which I have seen in China, and -is perhaps unequalled by any district of like extent -in the world. It is one vast beautiful garden. The -hills nearest to Shanghae are distant about thirty -miles. These have an isolated appearance in the -extensive plain, and are not more than two or three -hundred feet high. From their summit, on a clear -day, I looked round in all directions, and was only -able to see some few hills, apparently having the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>same isolated character, far away on the horizon, -to the south; these, I have since ascertained, are -near the Tartar city of Chapoo. All the rest of the -country was a vast level plain, without a mountain -or a hill to break the monotony of the view. The -soil is a rich deep loam, and produces heavy crops -of wheat, barley, rice, and cotton, besides an immense -quantity of green vegetable crops, such as -cabbages, turnips, yams, carrots, egg-plants, cucumbers -and other articles of that kind which are -grown in the vicinity of the city. The land, although -level, is generally much higher than the -valleys amongst the hills, or the plain round Ning-po; -and, consequently, it is well adapted for the -cultivation of cotton, which is, in fact, the staple -production of the district. Indeed this is the great -Nanking cotton country, from which large quantities -of that article are generally sent in junks to the -north and south of China, as well as to the neighbouring -islands. Both the white kind, and that -called the "yellow cotton," from which the yellow -Nanking cloth is made, are produced in the district.</p> - -<p>The soil of this district is not only remarkably -fertile, but agriculture seems more advanced, and -bears a greater resemblance to what it is at home, -than in any part of China which I have seen. One -here meets with a farm-yard containing stacks regularly -built up and thatched in the same form and -manner as we find them in England; the land, too, -is ridged and furrowed in the same way; and were -it not for plantations of bamboo, and the long tails -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>and general costume of the natives, a man might -almost imagine himself on the banks of the Thames.</p> - -<p>A very considerable portion of the land in the -vicinity of the town is occupied by the tombs of -the dead.<a name="FNanchor_1_5" id="FNanchor_1_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_5" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> In all directions large conical shaped -mounds meet the eye, overgrown with long grass, -and in some instances planted with shrubs and -flowers. The traveller here, as well as at Ning-po -and Chusan, constantly meets with coffins placed on -the surface of the ground out in the fields, carefully -thatched over with straw or mats to preserve them -from the weather. Sometimes, though rarely, when -the relatives are less careful than they generally -are, I met with coffins broken or crumbling to -pieces with age, exposing the remains of the dead. -I was most struck with the coffins of children, -which I met with every where; these are raised -from the ground on a few wooden posts, and carefully -thatched over to protect them from the -weather—reminding the stranger that some parent, -with feelings as tender and acute as his own, has -been bereaved of a loved one, whom he, perhaps, -expected should cheer and support him in his declining -years, and whose remains he now carefully -watches. Those in the higher ranks of life have, -generally, a family burial-place at a little distance -from the town, planted with cypress and pine trees, -with a temple and altar built to hold the josses or -idols, and where the various religious ceremonies -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>are performed. A man with his family is stationed -there to protect the place, and to burn candles and -incense on certain high days. Others, again, are -interred in what may be called public cemeteries, -several of which I met with in the vicinity of -Shanghae. These are large buildings, each containing -a certain number of spacious halls or rooms, -and having the coffins placed in rows around the -sides.</p> - -<p>A flat and highly cultivated country, such as I -have just described, cannot be expected to be rich -in indigenous plants. There are, however, many -beautiful clumps of the bamboo growing round all -the villages and small farm houses, which give a -kind of tropical character to the scenery, but it is -the <i>only</i> type of the tropics met with in this district, -at least as regards trees. I have already -mentioned the clumps of cypress and pine trees -planted in the cemeteries of the rich, which are seen -studded all over the country, and form one of its -most striking features. Among these, I met for -the first time with the beautiful <i>Cryptomeria japonica</i>, -a species of pine not unlike the <i>Araucarias</i> of -Norfolk Island and Brazil. When growing luxuriantly, -it is highly ornamental, rising from the -ground as straight as a larch, and sending out -numerous side branches almost horizontally from -the main stem, which again droop towards the -ground in a graceful and "<i>weeping</i>" manner. The -wood of the tree has a kind of twisted grain, and -possesses great strength and durability. It is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>highly valued by the Chinese, and from its beauty -and straightness is often used by the mandarins -and priests for those long poles which are generally -seen in front of their houses and temples. It is -also well known and highly prized by the natives -of Japan. My first seeds and plants of this beautiful -fir were sent from Shanghae, in the autumn -of 1843, and fortunately reached the garden of -the Horticultural Society, at Chiswick, in excellent -order. It is to be hoped that it will prove hardy, -and if so, it will form a striking feature in the woods -of England.</p> - -<p>The only tree which I met with of very large -size in this district is the <i>Salisburia adiantifolia</i>, -commonly called the Maiden-hair tree, from the resemblance -its leaves bear to a fern of that name. -This is one of the plants which the Chinese are -fond of dwarfing, and it is, consequently, often seen -in that state in their gardens. Its fruit is sold in -the markets in all Chinese towns by the name of -"<i>Pa-Kwo</i>," and is not unlike dried almonds, only -whiter, fuller, and more round. The natives seem -very fond of it, although it is rarely eaten by -Europeans. The weeping-willow, apparently the -same species as we possess in England, is also common -on the sides of all the rivers and canals, as -well as in the gardens of the Chinese; and there is -also a species of elm, but it never attains any great -size, and can therefore be of little value.</p> - -<p>Although there is a paucity in the number of -plants which are really indigenous to this district, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>yet Shanghae is rich in species which have been -brought from other parts of the empire, and are -here exposed in gardens for sale: but there are -here no mandarin gardens similar to those at -Ning-po, this being essentially a mercantile city, and -all the residents engaged in active business. The -difference between the two towns, in this respect, -is indeed very striking. To make up, however, for -the deficiency of private collections, I found a number -of nursery gardens containing excellent assortments -of plants for sale, many of which were new -to me, and are unknown in Europe; and, being at -the same time very ornamental, were consequently -of great value. At first I had great difficulty -in finding out these gardens. The Chinese, from -motives which it would be difficult to define—perhaps -jealousy or fear,—were unwilling to give me -the slightest information about any of these places -outside of the town. They told me there were -numbers of flower-shops in the city, but denied -having any knowledge of nurseries or gardens in -the country.</p> - -<p>"If you want flowers," said they, "there they -are in the shops; why do you not buy them? -Shanghae men do this, and you should do the -same."</p> - -<p>"But then shops do not contain the things -which I want," said I.</p> - -<p>"Then give us the names of the things you -want, and we will get them for you."</p> - -<p>"But how can I give you the names? I do not -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>understand your language; you would, of course, -send to your nurseries for them if I could only -furnish you with their names?"</p> - -<p>"Yes."</p> - -<p>"Oh, then, you have nursery gardens in the -country?"</p> - -<p>"Yes; but they are a very long way off."</p> - -<p>Of course I knew enough of the Chinese by this -time to doubt every word they told me, unless I -had good reasons for believing them to be speaking -the truth, which I had not in this case. I also -saw at a glance, from the state of the plants, that -they had not only been grown in the country, but I -knew from their condition that they could have come -but a very short distance, for they had been dug -out of the ground with a portion of the soil -adhering to the roots. For some few days, however, -all my efforts were completely baffled, until -a lucky circumstance enabled me to get the better -of my Chinese friends. My servant and myself -were returning home from the country, after an -unsuccessful day's search, when, as we neared the -north gate of the city, I shot a bird, which was new -to me; being at that time engaged in making -a collection of the skins of Chinese birds. I was -of course immediately surrounded by all the boys -in the neighbourhood, who were quite in raptures -at my gun, as it was so different from their own -clumsy matchlock. "Now," said I to the juvenile -crowd around me, "who can show me the way to -the nearest flower-garden, where I can purchase -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>some flowers." "Lyloe, lyloe,"<a name="FNanchor_2_6" id="FNanchor_2_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_6" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> said half a -dozen of them at once, and I found, to my surprise -and pleasure, that I was almost close to the gate -of a very good nursery belonging to an individual -who had a flower-shop in the city, and with whom -I had had the conversation related above. It was -now getting too dark to see the plants well, but I -marked the spot, and returned on the following -day. This time, however, I was not successful, -for, as I approached, a boy, who was on the watch, -scampered away to the gardener's house and gave -notice of my appearance; and long before I reached -the gate it was closed and barricaded, and no persuasion -nor entreaty could remove their fears, or -induce them to allow me to enter. The next day, -and the next again, the very same thing took -place, although I took different roads, in the hopes -of finding the young sentinel off his guard. I was -now obliged to have recourse to other means to -gain my end. Her Majesty's consul, Captain Balfour, -had from the first taken great interest in the -success of my pursuits, and kindly offered me -every assistance in his power, should I find any -difficulties in my way. I therefore related the -circumstance to him, and requested him to allow -one of the Chinese officers attached to the consulate -to accompany me to the garden, and explain -that my object was to purchase plants, and not to -take any thing away against their will. From our -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>experience of Chinese character, we were well -aware that, if this were properly explained, the poor -people, whose livelihood depended upon the propagation -and sale of plants, would be very glad to -allow me to make purchases at their garden. I -therefore set out again on the following day, -accompanied by an officer from the consulate. -When we approached the garden, my young friend -was at his post, as usual, and ran off immediately, -and forthwith the gate was closed and barricaded -as before. We walked quietly up to it, and -knocked, but there was no answer; and the place -seemed all at once to be deserted. The officer well -knew that the family had hid themselves just -inside the gate, and commenced talking to them, -and laughing at their fears. In a few seconds we -heard a movement amongst the bushes, and then -the inmates, gaining courage, ventured to approach -the gate to reconnoitre. At last, being apparently -satisfied, the bolts were withdrawn, and we were -admitted within the sacred precincts of the garden, -when I soon found several very valuable plants. -The ice was now broken, and, with the assistance -of the Chinese officer, I got the names and localities -of several other gardens, which I soon found -out: and, although it was the winter season, and -vegetation in a state of repose, I was able in a few -weeks to get together a collection of plants, which, -when they flowered, proved not only quite new, -but highly ornamental. A few months wrought -a great change upon these diffident and timid -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>people, and, at length, they not only received me -with pleasure, but begged me to bring my friends -and acquaintances to see their flowers. I frequently -did so, and as we always treated them with kindness -and consideration, a favourable impression was -made upon their minds, which, I have no doubt, -will long continue. When I was leaving Shanghae -for the last time on my return to England, I went -to remove a collection of plants which I had in one -of these gardens: as I was doing so, the proprietor -said to me, "the next time you come to Shanghae -I shall have left this garden, and gone to one -which I have taken in the next district, where I -shall be glad to see you, and supply you with the -plants you want."</p> - -<p>"Thanks, my good friend," said I, "but as my -labours in the 'central flowery land' are ended, I -shall now return again to my own country, 'Ta-Eng-co<a name="FNanchor_3_7" id="FNanchor_3_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_7" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>,' -a land in the far distant west, and you -shall never see me again; fare you well."</p> - -<p>He then kindly wished me fair winds, smooth -seas, and a happy meeting with my friends at -home.</p> - -<p>I merely mention this circumstance to show what -a change took place in the feelings of these poor -people in the course of two years, and which I -regard as an earnest of what may be done with the -northern Chinese, who differ widely from their -haughty and insolent countrymen in the south.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>Another example may be given to show the -cunning and deceit of many of the Chinese here as -elsewhere. A flower painter in Chusan had informed -me that several very valuable varieties of -the <i>Moutan</i>, or Tree PÅ“ony, were to be found in -gardens near Shanghae. Those varieties of this -flower, which are yearly brought from the northern -provinces to Canton, and which are now common -in Europe, have blossoms, which are either rose-coloured -or white: but it was always asserted, -although not believed, that in some part of China -purple, blue, and yellow varieties were produced, -although these were never brought to Canton for -sale. It was for these that I made the most particular -inquiries, and this painter not only affirmed -he had seen them, but also offered, for a small sum, -to make me drawings from memory of all the different -kinds. I employed him at once, and when -he had finished the drawings, I took them with me -to Shanghae. A nurseryman, who had a flower-shop -in the town, to whom I showed these drawings, -promised at once to procure living plants for -me, but said they would be very expensive, as he -would have to send to Soo-chow, a distance of -nearly one hundred miles, for they were not to be -procured in the vicinity of Shanghae, and a man -would be absent at least eight days. I was, of -course, glad to get them upon any terms, and gave -the man the price he asked, which, after all, was -not much out of the way, if they were to be -brought a hundred miles. At the specified time -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>the Moutans arrived, and proved most valuable -kinds, which, in England, would have brought a -very high sum. Amongst them there were <i>lilacs</i> -and <i>purples</i>; some nearly <i>black</i>; and one which the -Chinese called "<i>the yellow,</i>" which, however, was only -white with a slight tinge of yellow near the centre of -the petals. Altogether the collection was a valuable -one, and I was highly satisfied with my bargain. -Great was my surprise when I afterwards found -that these plants were brought a distance not more -than six miles from the walls of Shanghae, and that -the celebrated town of Soo-chow was, in fact, supplied -with "Moutans" from the very same place.</p> - -<p>It was the winter season when I paid my first -visit to Shanghae, and of course few plants were then -in bloom except the Chrysanthemum, the varieties -of which are as numerous here as in the south of -China; and as the Chinese gardeners understand -their cultivation well, they were, at this particular -season, objects of great interest. My collections -were chiefly deciduous plants, which it was impossible -to determine or describe at the time, being chosen -partly on account of the families they belonged to, -and partly from the characters given them by the -Chinese. Every one acquainted with practical -Botany can form a very fair idea of the value of -plants even in this condition, and I was not disappointed -in the expectations I had formed regarding -this collection, many of the specimens afterwards -proving plants of great beauty and value.</p> - -<p>Whilst at Shanghae, I, with some other Europeans, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>had an invitation to go to the house of a -mandarin, to see a theatrical performance or "Sing-song," -and to dine with him in Chinese style afterwards. -Sedan chairs were sent to take us to his -house, where we were introduced to a number of -his friends, and, as the invariable custom is, tea was -immediately handed round. Shortly afterwards a -servant came with a tray full of wet, warm towels, -not unlike those generally used in kitchens at home, -and presented one to each of us. At first, we could -not conjecture what these were for; but, on looking -at our Chinese friends, we observed them -rubbing their faces and hands with them, and, although -not very agreeable to us, we immediately -did the same. I afterwards found that this was a -common custom amongst the Chinese, and I have -often been much refreshed by it after a warm walk. -In hot countries like China this plan is much better, -and more conducive to health, than either washing -or bathing in cold water.</p> - -<p>While this was going on in the house, the players -were getting every thing ready in the large room -where the performance was to take place. In a little -while one of them entered the room where we were, -carrying in his hand several fine long ivory cards, -on which were written a number of the most popular -plays of the day, any one of which the -players were ready to perform at the command of -our host and his friends. We were most politely -consulted on the subject, which, as we did not -know a single character of the language, and had -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>the greatest difficulty in understanding what was -said to us, was not of much use. Having at last -fixed upon a particular piece for the evening's entertainment, -we were all led into the theatre. The -room was large and nearly square, having a platform -at the upper end for the actors and band, and -one of the sides being only separated from an open -lane by a railing, so that the public might also have -a view of the play. The centre of the room was -completely filled with guests, and from the roof -hung a number of lanterns in the Chinese style. -As it was early in the afternoon when the play commenced, -the lanterns were not lighted and the piece -went on in daylight, the Chinese actors not excluding -it as we do in our theatres in England.</p> - -<p>The play began with some pantomime-like feats, -such as we see in English theatres at Christmas. -This was succeeded by something which appeared -to be very pathetic, judging from the language and -gestures of the performers. All was gone through -in a kind of opera style, the actors singing their -parts with false voices. The feats of tumbling -which were now and then performed were extremely -dexterous and clever, and attracted our notice more -than any thing else, probably because they were best -understood.</p> - -<p>The dresses of the actors were superb, and must -have cost a large sum of money. There were no -females amongst them, as it is not customary for -them to act; but their places were supplied by men -or boys, chosen from amongst those who are most -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>"lady-looking," and so well were their appearance -and dresses arranged, that it would have required a -practised eye to have detected the difference.</p> - -<p>The voices of the actors were not musical, at least -to English ears, but the whole was in unison with -the noisy gong, and the wind instruments, like bagpipes, -which are in common use amongst the Chinese. -In fact, noise seemed to be the thing which -produced the greatest effect, and we certainly had -enough of it.</p> - -<p>I was struck by the various figures made by -the actors on the stage, intended, no doubt, to -represent something like those scenes or pictures -which are so much studied in our theatres at -home. A quadrant seems to be a great favourite, -and was constantly made by them in the different -acts. They have no scenery to assist the delusion, -only a simple screen, which is sometimes used to represent -a room out of which some actor is to make -his appearance. Fencing is much practised, and is, -perhaps, the most curious part of these exhibitions. -Each individual has two swords, which he swings -about his head in the wildest manner, at the same -time throwing his feet and legs about in a most -fantastic way, as if they had as much to do in the -business as the hands and arms. The exhibition or -play lasted for three hours, and then we left the -theatre and retired into another room. While we -were there the servants were busily employed in rearranging -the theatre, which was now to be converted -into a dining-room.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>When all was ready we were led in with great -ceremony, and placed in the principal seats of honour. -We had now an opportunity of seeing the extent to -which the Chinese carry their ceremony and politeness -amongst themselves when they are about to be -seated at table. Our host and his friends were -nearly a quarter of an hour before the whole of them -were seated. Each one was pressing the most honourable -seat upon his neighbour, who, in his turn, -could not think of occupying such a distinguished -place at the board. However, after a great deal of -bowing and flattery, all was apparently arranged -satisfactorily and dinner commenced.</p> - -<p>The tables were now covered with a profusion of -small dishes, which contained all the finest fruits -and vegetables of the season, besides many of the -most expensive kinds of soups, such as the celebrated -bird's nest and others, many of which were -excellent even to the palate of an Englishman. The -servants were continually employed in removing -the centre dishes and replacing them by others of a -different kind, until at last every one seemed perfectly -satisfied. Still, however, the ceremony of -bringing in new dishes went on, and these were -merely looked at and removed. Our maiden efforts -with the chopsticks must have been a source of -great amusement to our Chinese friends, but they -were polite enough not to laugh at us, and did -every thing in their power to assist us. The play -was resumed again as soon as the dinner commenced, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>and continued as briskly as ever. The "lady -actors" at intervals came down from the platform -and supplied the guests with different kinds of -wines. During the entertainment, a piece of money -was handed to each of the guests, which they were -desired to leave as a present for the actors at the -conclusion of the piece. When this was given them, -the whole of the <i>corps dramatique</i> came round, and -each made a most polite bow of acknowledgment and -withdrew. Still, however, the dinner ceremonial -went on; hundreds of fresh dishes were brought in, -and as many in their turn removed. The Chinese -guests were sometimes smoking, sometimes eating, -just as it seemed good to them, and uniformly -praising every thing which made its appearance on -the table.</p> - -<p>We had now been three or four hours at table, -and although the whole affair had been very -amusing, we had had enough of it, and were beginning -to tire. "How long shall the dinner last?" -said I to a linguist who was placed next me, and -who had most politely explained every thing which -had occurred during the entertainment. "Oh," -said he, "it will last for three or four hours longer, -but if you want to go away, you may do so now." -We were very glad to find that Chinese etiquette -permitted us to withdraw, and ordered our chairs, -which were waiting in the court-yard to receive us. -Our host and his friends lighted us out with lanterns, -and we took our departure in the same style -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>in which we came. So ended my first Chinese -dinner. Since then such things have been no -rarity, either in the palaces of the rich or in the -cottages of the poor, and they have been even more -frequent in the temples with the priests.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_5" id="Footnote_1_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_5"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It is stated in Davis's "Chinese," that the dead are all buried -on the sides of the barren hills.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_6" id="Footnote_2_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_6"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Come, come.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_7" id="Footnote_3_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_7"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Great England, or Great Britain, the name which our -country is known by in the north of China.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. IX.</h3> - -<p>RETURN TO THE SOUTH OF CHINA.—THE CANTON RIVER DESCRIBED.—FORTS -AT THE BOCCA TIGRIS.—PRODUCTIONS OF -THE COUNTRY.—THE "SIGHING" WILLOW.—CULTIVATION -OF THE NELUMBIUM.—BOATS ON THE RIVER.—THE BARBER'S -BOAT, &C.—SPLENDOUR OF THE FLOWER BOATS.—APPEARANCE -OF THE RIVER AT FESTIVALS.—ORDER WHICH PREVAILS -IN THIS FLOATING CITY.—HOUSES BUILT OVER WATER.—CHINESE -DEXTERITY IN SWIMMING AND DIVING.—FA-TEE -GARDENS.—THEIR PLANTS.—OLD ACHING GETS A BAD NAME -BECAUSE HIS SEEDS DO NOT GROW.—HE DOES NOT DESERVE -IT.—ADVICE TO THE BUYERS OF SEEDS.—ENGLISH AND -AMERICAN PUBLIC GARDENS AT CANTON.—CHINESE NEW YEAR.—ATTACKED -AND ROBBED BY THE CHINESE.—A SUBSEQUENT -ATTACK MADE UPON SOME OFFICERS OF THE ENGLISH GOVERNMENT.—THEIR -LETTER TO HER MAJESTY'S CONSUL.</p> - -<p class="p2">As the island of Chusan was my head-quarters in -the north of China, I now proceeded thither with -my collections from Shanghae, preparatory to sailing -for Hong-kong and the southern ports of the country. -The Chusan hills were now covered with -snow, and the weather was piercingly cold. Large -quantities of pheasants and water-fowl were daily -brought to the markets by the Chinese, who found -the English good customers. A small species of -deer was also brought from the main-land, and -frequently alive. Four or five fine pheasants were -often to be purchased for a dollar, and duck and -teal were also remarkably cheap: I believe from -two to four rupees were generally given for a deer.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>The officers of the troops stationed at Chusan, -who were fond of shooting, obtained excellent sport -by engaging Chinese boats and going across to the -hills on the main-land, there being little game of -any kind upon the island itself.</p> - -<p>Having got all my things packed, I took a -passage in a vessel bound for the South, and having -a fair monsoon down the China sea, we arrived at -Hong-kong in a few days, without any thing occurring -worthy of notice. The various collections -which I had made in the North were now put up -in glazed cases and shipped for England.</p> - -<p>As the south of China had been ransacked by -former botanists, I could not expect to find much -which was new or worthy of being sent home, and -I therefore arranged to proceed north again in -March or April, in order to have a whole season -before me. In the meantime, as I had a few weeks -to spare in the south, I determined on a visit to -Canton and Macao, which are both within a short -distance from Hong-kong.</p> - -<p>The Canton river is certainly one of the most -imposing and striking objects which the traveller -meets with in this celebrated country. The sea, -near its mouth, is studded all over with numerous -islands, of which a good view is obtained in going -over from Hong-kong to Macao: and in sailing from -either of these places to Canton, we pass a succession -of them, most of which are mountainous, -having huge masses of rock and yellow gravelly -clay protruding here and there through the surface, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>and but thinly covered with vegetation of any -kind.</p> - -<p>Sometimes however, in our progress, we obtained -views of beautiful bays, with a few acres of level -land near the shore, in the midst of which there are -some pretty houses or huts, surrounded by a few -trees and shrubs. In sailing amongst these islands -one is apt to think that in the retirement of such -places, far removed from the vicious world, and the -"busy hum of men," the inhabitants must indeed -be happy and innocent, having their few wants -abundantly supplied by the rice which grows luxuriantly -around their dwellings, and by the never-failing -supply of excellent fish, which are easily -caught in the sea. But these dreams of happiness -and innocence are soon dispelled—these quiet villages -abound with pirates, who frequently commit -acts of the most cold-blooded cruelty, and render -the passage between Hong-kong, Canton, and Macao -an alarming and dangerous affair. Lorchas and -other small vessels, with valuable cargoes on board, -are frequently attacked, the crew and passengers -murdered, and the vessels disabled or destroyed.</p> - -<p>A few hours' sail, with a fair wind and tide, -brought me in sight of the celebrated Bocca Tigris, -the entrance to the Canton river. The forts destroyed -during the war had been rebuilt on a more -extensive scale; and, if manned with English soldiers, -no hostile fleet in the world could pass them -without being blown to pieces. I fancy, however, -that the Chinese, although they have had a lesson -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>in the art of war, which will make them more -difficult to conquer in future, would still, with all -their forts, afford, but a feeble resistance against the -military and naval tactics of the English and other -civilised nations of the West.</p> - -<p>Inside the Bogue the river widens very much, -and presents the appearance of an inland sea. The -view now becomes beautiful and highly picturesque, -the flat cultivated land near the shores forming a -striking contrast to the barren hills on the outside -of the forts; the mountains in the distance appear -to encircle the extensive plain; and although, like -the others, they are barren, yet they make a fine -back-ground to the picture. A few miles further -up the river, the shipping in Blenheim and Whampoa -reaches come into view, and the celebrated -Whampoa pagoda, with several more of less note, -besides numerous other towers and joss-houses, all -remind the traveller that he is approaching the far-famed -city of Canton, one of the richest and most -important in the celestial empire. The noble river, -with its numerous ramifications, forms many -islands, on one of which the small town or village of -Whampoa is built.</p> - -<p>Large quantities of rice are grown, both on the -islands formed by the river, and on the flats on the -main land. The tide is kept out by embankments, -and the ground can be overflowed at will. These -embankments are not allowed to lie idle, but are -made to produce crops of Plantains. When the -land is too high to be flooded by the tide, the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>water-wheel is brought into play, and it is perfectly -astonishing how much water can be raised by this -simple contrivance in a very short space of time.</p> - -<p>Sugar-cane is also grown rather extensively near -Whampoa, and in its raw state is an article in -great demand amongst the Chinese. It is manufactured -into sugar-candy and brown sugar; many -kinds of the latter being particularly fine, though -not much used by the foreigners residing in the -country; who generally prefer the candy reduced -to powder, in which state it is very fine and white. -I did not see our loaf-sugar in any part of China, -and I conceive that it is not made there.</p> - -<p>A great number of the common fruit trees of -the country grow all over the plains and near the -side of the river. The mango, guava, wangpee -(<i>Cookia punctata</i>), leechee, longan, oranges, and -pumeloes, are the principal kinds. Besides these, -there are the cypress, thuja, banyan and other -kinds of fig-trees, and a species of pine, called by -the Chinese the water pine, from its always growing -by the sides of the rivers and canals. The -bamboo, and a sort of weeping willow very much -like our own, are also frequently met with. The -name which the Chinese give to the latter is the -"sighing" willow, coinciding rather curiously with -our own term of "weeping," and when taken in -connection with the historical fact of the Jews -weeping by the streams of Babylon, and hanging -their harps upon the willows, show that this is regarded -as the emblem of sorrow as universally -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>as the dark and sombre pine and cypress are -considered in all countries fit companions to the -cemetery and churchyard.</p> - -<p>On the sides of the river, both below and above -the city, large quantities of the water lily, or lotus, -are grown, which are enclosed by embankments -in the same manner as the rice fields. This plant -is cultivated both as an ornament, and for the root, -which is brought in large quantities to the markets, -and of which the Chinese are remarkably fond. -In the summer and autumn months, when in flower, -the lotus fields have a gay and striking appearance, -but at other seasons the decayed leaves -and flowers, and the stagnant and dirty water, are -not at all ornamental to the houses which they -surround.</p> - -<p>One of the most striking sights on the Canton -river is the immense number of boats which are -moored all along the shore, near the foreign factory. -There are hundreds of thousands of all kinds and -sizes, from the splendid flower-boat, as it is called, -down to the small barber's boat, forming a large -floating city, peopled by an immense number of -human beings. In sailing up the river you may -observe a very small boat, perhaps the smallest you -ever saw, exposed on the water, being nothing more -than a few planks fastened together. This is the -barber's boat, who is going about, or rather swimming -about, following his daily avocation of shaving -the heads and tickling the ears and eyes of -the Chinamen. By the by, this same barber has -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>much to answer for, for his practice has a most -prejudicial effect upon the eyes and ears of his -countrymen. He, however, works his little boat -with great dexterity, and with his scull manages -to propel himself with ease and swiftness through -the floating city of boats, larger and more powerful -than his own. Then you see boats of various -sizes, such as those at Macao and Hong-kong, -covered over, divided into three compartments, and -kept remarkably clean and neat. These are hired -by either natives or foreigners for the purpose of -going off to the large junks, or other vessels -moored out in the river, or for short excursions to -the island of Honan, the Fa-Tee Gardens, or such -places. The centre division of the boat forms a -very neat little room, having windows in the sides, -ornamented with pictures and flowers of various -kinds. The compartment at the bow is occupied -by the rowers, and that at the stern is used for -preparing the food of the family to whom the boat -belongs.</p> - -<p>The boats of the Hong merchants, and the large -flower-boats are very splendid. They are arranged -in compartments like the others, but are built in a -more superb and costly manner. The reader must -imagine a kind of wooden house raised upon the -floor of the boat, having the entrance near the -bows, space being left there for the boatmen to -stand and row. This entrance being the front, is -carved in a most superb style, forming a prelude -to what may be seen within. Numerous lanterns -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>hang from the roof of these splendid showy -cabins; looking-glasses, pictures, and poetry adorn -their sides; and all the peculiarities of this singular -people are exposed to our view in these their -floating palaces.</p> - -<p>Then there are the Chop boats, which are used -by the merchants for conveying goods to the vessels -at Whampoa; the passage-boats to Hong-kong, -Macao, and various parts of the country; the Mandarin-boats, -with their numerous oars, which have -a strange appearance as they pass up and down the -river (I have seen a single boat of this kind with -forty oars on each side); and, lastly, the large unwieldly -sea-going junks. There are various modifications -of all these kinds of boats, each adapted -for the particular purpose for which it is designed. -At festival times, the river has a singularly -gay and striking appearance, particularly at night, -when the lanterns are lighted, and numberless -boats gaily decorated with them move up and down -in front of the factory. The effect produced upon -a stranger at these times by the wild and occasionally -plaintive strains of Chinese music, the noisy -gong, the close and sultry air, the strange people,—full -of peculiarities and conceit,—is such as he -can never forget, and leaves upon his mind a mixed -impression of pleasure, pity, admiration, and contempt. -Throughout the whole of this immense -floating city, the greatest regularity prevails; the -large boats are arranged in rows, forming streets, -through which the smaller craft pass and repass, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>like coaches and other vehicles in a large town. -The families who live in this manner seem to have -a great partiality for flowers, which they keep in -pots, either upon the high stern of their boats, or -in their little parlours. The Chinese Arbor vitæ, -Gardenias, Cycas revoluta, cockscombs, and oranges, -seem to be the greatest favourites with them. A -joss-house—small indeed, in many cases, but yet -a place of worship—is indispensable to all these -floating houses. Here the joss-stick and the oil are -daily burned, and form the incense which these -poor people offer to their imaginary deity.</p> - -<p>Upon the sides of the river, and the numerous -canals in the suburbs of Canton, whole streets of -wooden houses are built upon stakes which are -driven firmly into the mud. These dwellings very -much resemble the travelling shows which are -often seen in the market towns of England; except -that posts supply the place of wheels, and that they -are crowded together in hundreds, forming crooked -and irregular streets. Thousands of the inhabitants -live and enjoy health and happiness in such -places, which would soon be graves for Europeans—such -is the difference of constitution.</p> - -<p>But what surprised me most was the old women -and young children bathing in the river, which -seemed as if it were their natural element, and they -appeared quite as much at home there as the fishes -themselves. The Chinese boat population are -famous for their dexterity in and under the water. -Since the island of Hong-kong became an English -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>settlement, officers of the government, sent to -apprehend thieves in the bay, have frequently failed -to do so owing to this circumstance. The Chinamen, -whenever they found that there was any -danger of being taken, jumped all together overboard, -diving out of sight, and swimming under -water until they were out of the reach of their -pursuers, or until they found shelter in some of -the numerous boats belonging to their own clan, -which lay moored in the bay.</p> - -<p>I lost no time in visiting the celebrated Fa-tee -Gardens, near Canton, the "flowery land," as the -name implies, from whence a great number of those -fine plants were first procured which now decorate -our gardens in England. They are situated two -or three miles above the city, on the opposite side -of the river, and are, in fact, Chinese nursery -gardens, where plants are cultivated for sale.</p> - -<p>Here, then, I beheld a specimen of the far-famed -system of Chinese gardening, about which we have -read so much in European authors: I will, therefore, -describe them somewhat fully. The plants -are principally kept in large pots arranged in rows -along the sides of narrow paved walks, with the -houses of the gardeners at the entrance through -which the visitors pass to the gardens. There are -about a dozen of these gardens, more or less extensive, -according to the business or wealth of the -proprietor; but they are generally smaller than -the smallest of our London nurseries. They have -also stock-grounds, where the different plants are -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>planted out in the ground, and where the first -process of dwarfing their celebrated trees is put -in operation. These contain large collections of -Camellias, Azaleas, oranges, roses, and various -other well-known plants, which are purchased by -the Chinese when in flower. The most striking -plant in autumn or winter is the curious fingered -Citron, which the Chinese gather and place in their -dwellings or on their altars. It is much admired -both for its strange form and also for its perfume. -The mandarin orange is also much grown at Fa-tee, -where the plants are kept in a dwarf state, and -flower and fruit most profusely, producing large, -flat, dark, red-skinned fruit. The Chinese have a -great variety of plants belonging to the orange -tribe; and of one which they call the <i>cum quat</i>—a -small oval-fruited variety—they make a most -excellent preserve. The <i>Murraya exotica, Aglaia -odorata, Ixoras</i>, and <i>LagerstrÅ“mias</i> are very ornamental -here in autumn.</p> - -<p>But it is of course in spring that the Fa-tee -gardens possess the greatest attractions. They are -then gay with the tree pæony, azaleas, camellias, roses, -and various other plants. The azaleas are splendid, -and reminded me of the exhibitions in the gardens -of the Horticultural Society at Chiswick, but the -Fa-tee exhibitions were on a much larger scale. Every -garden was one mass of bloom, and the different -colours of red, white, and purple blended together, -had a most beautiful and imposing effect. The -principal kinds grown were <i>Azalea indica, indica</i> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span><i>alba, phÅ“nicea, lateritia, variegata</i>, and the yellow -<i>Azalea sinensis</i>. I may mention in passing, that I -found the latter plant wild on the Ning-po hills, so -that there is no doubt of its being a genuine Chinese -species. The air at this season around Fa-tee is -perfumed with the sweet flowers of <i>Olea fragrans</i>, -and the <i>Magnolia fuscata</i>, both of which are grown -extensively in these gardens. Dwarf trees, as may -be supposed, occupy a principal station; they are -trained into the most grotesque and curious forms. -The plants which stand next to dwarf trees in -importance with the Chinese are certainty chrysanthemums, -which they manage extremely well, perhaps -better than they do any other plant. So high -do these plants stand in the favour of the Chinese -gardener, that he will cultivate them extensively, -even against the wishes of his employer; and, in -many instances, rather leave his situation than give -up the growth of his favourite flower. I was told -that the late Mr. Beale used to say that he grew -chrysanthemums in his garden for no other purpose -than to please his gardener, not having any taste -for this particular flower himself.</p> - -<p>Tree pæonies are not natives of the south of -China, but are brought down in large quantities -every year, about the month of January, from the -northern provinces. They flower soon after they -arrive, and are rapidly bought up by the Chinese -to ornament their houses, after which they are -thrown away, as they do not thrive well so far -south as Canton or Macao, and will not flower a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>second season. They are sold according to the -number of flower-buds they may have upon them, -many of them fetching rather high prices.</p> - -<p>One of the old gardeners here speaks the English -language very well, and carries on a considerable -trade in seeds with the English and American residents, -but, unfortunately, he has got a bad name, -owing to his seeds generally failing to grow when -they are sent home. It is now currently reported -that the old man boils them, in order that his trade -may not be spoiled by some enterprising propagator -in England or America. Such, however, is not the -case; on the contrary, I am quite certain that he -does every thing in his power to preserve them, but -very likely some may be a year or two old before -they are dispatched to Europe. Besides, the long -voyage round the Cape—during which the seeds -have twice to cross the tropics—is very prejudicial -to their germination. There is, however, no great -loss in these seeds not growing, as there is nothing -amongst them new, or of any value, for they are -gathered from the plants common in the Fa-tee gardens, -the greater part of which have been years -ago introduced to our gardens at home. I would, -therefore, strongly advise my friends in China not -to spend their money upon such seeds.</p> - -<p>Although the botanist can find little that is new -to him in these gardens, yet they are well worthy -of a visit; and in the spring months, when most of -the plants are in bloom, they have a singularly gorgeous -and imposing appearance, and really deserve -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>the poetical name of "Fa-tee," or flowery land, -which the Chinese have given them.</p> - -<p>The garden which formerly belonged to the East -India Company is still in existence. It is but a -small plot of ground on the river side, not more -than sixty paces each way, having broad chunamed -walks round it, and a clump, with a few trees in the -middle, and a few more between the walk and the -wall all round. Since Mr. Reeves's time no one -seems to have paid any attention to the plants here, -and if there ever were any rare species, they are -now all lost. A few Palms, Plantains, <i>Magnolia -grandiflora, Clerodendron fragrans, Justicia Adhatoda, -Ligustrum, Murraya exotica</i>, the Leechee, and -two or three other well-known things, are all that it -contains. In front of the American factory there -is a very nice public garden, at least six times the -size of the Company's, with fine broad walks for -recreation, and containing numerous shrubs and -trees indigenous to the country; nothing, it is true, -of any rarity, but sufficient to make it look extremely -well. A good garden and promenade are of much -importance here; for it is likely to be some years -before foreigners enjoy the same liberty at Canton -of walking about the country as they do in the -other parts of China.</p> - -<p>At this period the Chinese were making great -preparations for the celebration of New Year's Day, -which then fell on the 18th of February. Flowers -of all kinds were in great demand amongst the -inhabitants, who employ them in the decoration of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>their houses and temples. In going up the river -towards the Fa-tee Gardens, I met boats in great -numbers loaded with branches of peach and plum -trees in bloom, <i>Enkianthus quinqueflorus</i>, camellias, -cockscombs, magnolias, and various other -plants which flower at this season. The Enkianthus -is brought down from the hills with the buds just -expanding; and after being placed in water for a -day or two, the flowers come out as healthy and -fresh as if the branches had not been removed from -the parent tree. This plant is a great favourite -amongst the Chinese. The common jonquil too -comes in for a very extensive share of patronage; -and in the streets of Canton one meets with thousands -of bulbs growing in small pans amongst water -and a few white stones. In this case the Chinese -exhibit their peculiar propensity for dwarf and -monstrous growth, by planting the bulbs upside -down, and making the plants and flowers assume -curious twisted forms, which appear to be so agreeable -to the eyes of a Chinaman. Large quantities of -all these flowers are exposed for sale in many of the -shops and in the corners of the streets in Canton, -where they seem to be eagerly bought up by the -Chinese, who consider them quite indispensable at -this particular season. Not only are the houses -and temples decorated with them, but the boats on -the river also come in for a most extensive share. -Indeed, these boats are only floating houses, for a -very great part of the population of Canton lives -upon the river. The flower-boats, as they are commonly -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>called, are particularly gay at new-year time -with flowers of all hues, and gaudy flags streaming -from each mast and stern. Crackers or fireworks, -of which the Chinaman is so fond, are let off in large -quantities for several days in all parts of the town, -and form part of their religious ceremonies or offerings -to their gods. Their shops are closed on New -Year's Day, and for two or three days afterwards. -The greater part of the natives wear their holiday -clothes, and tramp about amongst their relations -and friends to <i>chin-chin</i> them, and wish them a -happy new year, as we do at home. Large parties -are made at this season to go up to the gardens -at Fa-tee; and on particular days you find there -hundreds of these flower-boats crowded with young -Chinese of the better classes, enjoying themselves -as our own population do at Richmond or Hampton -Court. Great numbers of well dressed ladies also -go over to Fa-tee in the flower-boats, and walk about -in the gardens; and this is the only season when -they are visible at Canton.</p> - -<p>After having been several months in the north -of China, and, with one or two exceptions, always -experiencing the greatest civility from the natives, -I was beginning to form a high opinion of the -Chinese as a nation, and inclined to trust the people -about Canton in the same manner as I had done in -the northern provinces. I very soon, however, found -out my mistake, and in a most disagreeable manner. -There were some hills behind the city, a few miles -distant, which I had often wished to visit for the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>purpose of examining their botanical productions. -One morning I started off through the town, in -the direction of these hills; and after walking -between two and three miles, I reached the suburbs -on the side of the town, opposite to that where the -foreign factory stands. The sounds of "<i>Fankwei,</i>"<a name="FNanchor_1_8" id="FNanchor_1_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_8" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> -with which I was assailed in the early part of my -walk, had now nearly ceased, and I began to imagine -that I had got out from amongst the impertinent -boys and low Chinese, whom one continually -meets in the back streets of Canton. I was now on -a good road, amongst fields and gardens, and had -an excellent view of the surrounding country, and -hills. How very strange, thought I, that the -foreign residents in the factories never avail themselves -of the opportunity of coming here, when -they might enjoy the fresh air, and see the -country, which would help to relieve the monotonous -life they are compelled to lead.</p> - -<p>As I was walking quietly along, I met a Chinese -soldier on horseback, who by gestures and words -did every thing in his power to induce me to retrace -my steps. I knew nothing of the Canton -dialect at this time, and as I thought he only -wished to prevent me from taking a walk in the -country, I paid no attention to him, but passed onwards. -Soon afterwards, however, I began to suspect -the ill intentions of several groups of ill-looking -fellows who seemed to be eyeing me narrowly -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>as I proceeded. I now came to a little hill which -seemed to be used as a cemetery: it was enclosed, -but the door which led to it was wide open, and -the place appeared to be quite public. In order -to have a more extended view of the country, I -walked in and began to ascend the hill. I had -only proceeded about half way up, when a number of -Chinamen who had followed me in, began to crowd -round me, asking for "<i>comeshaws,</i>"<a name="FNanchor_2_9" id="FNanchor_2_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_9" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and becoming -every moment more numerous and urgent. I tried -what civility would do with them for a little while, -but by the time I reached the top of the hill I -clearly perceived that I was in a trap, out of which -it would be a difficult matter to extricate myself.</p> - -<p>Up to this time, however, no one had attempted -to lay hands upon me. Taking a cursory view of -the surrounding country, I began to devise in my -mind the best mode of getting rid of my troublesome -companions. There seemed no other way -than putting a bold face on the matter, and retracing -my steps to Canton. "You more better -come down this way," said a fellow to me in broken -English, pointing to a ravine on the opposite side of -the hill. My suspicions, however, were now roused, -and I saw at once the object of my adviser, which -was to get me into some place out of sight, where I -should doubtless have been robbed of every article -I had about my person, and probably stripped into -the bargain. "No, no," said I, "I have nothing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>to do down there," and began to retrace my steps -down the hill. The Chinese now closed upon me, -and seemed determined to obstruct my progress. -Some laid hold of my arms; one fellow seized my -cap, and ran off with it, another did the same with -my umbrella, several hands were in my pockets, and -others were even attempting to get my coat off. I -now saw that nothing short of getting every thing -I possessed would satisfy them, as each one wanted -something, and "their name was legion." Collecting -all my strength, I threw myself upon those who -were below me, and sent several of them rolling -down the side of the hill. This, however, was -nearly fatal to me, for, owing to the force which I -exerted, and the uneven nature of the ground, I -stumbled and fell; but fortunately I instantly recovered -myself, and renewed the unequal struggle, -my object being to reach the door of the cemetery -by which I had entered. The Chinese on the hill -now called out to their friends below to shut the -door, and thus prevent me from reaching the open -road. Seeing at once that if this were accomplished -I should be an easy prey to them, I determined -if possible to prevent it. Springing out of -the grasp of those by whom I was surrounded, I -made for the door, which I reached just as it was -closed, but fortunately before it was fastened on -the other side. The force with which I came -against it burst it open, and threw the Chinamen -on their backs who were busily fastening it. I -was now in the open road, where some hundreds -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>of the Chinese were congregated together; -some of them apparently respectable, but the -greater part evidently nothing but thieves and -robbers. The respectable part would not, or probably -durst not, render me any assistance. Stones -were now flying about me in all directions, and a -brick struck me with great force on the back, and -nearly brought me to the ground. I was stunned -for a few seconds, and leaned against the wall to -breathe and recover myself, thinking that I was -now comparatively safe as I was out on the open -road. I was soon undeceived, however, for the -rascals again surrounded me, and relieved me of -several articles which had escaped them before. -As the whole neighbourhood was evidently a bad -one, it would have been madness to have taken -shelter in any of the houses, and I therefore had to -struggle with the robbers for nearly a mile, sometimes -fighting, and sometimes running, until I got -out of their territory, and near the more populous -parts of the town. The plight I was now in may -easily be conceived, but taking everything into -account, I came off better than might have been -expected.</p> - -<p>On my way home, having neither hat nor umbrella, -I suffered greatly from exposure to the sun, -which, in the south of China, is very powerful on a -clear day, even in spring. I would have gladly gone -into a shop and bought a Chinese hat, but the rascals -had not left me even a copper cash for the purpose. -Fortunately I had left my watch at home, otherwise -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>that would have been taken amongst the first things, -as Chinese thieves are very partial to watches and -know their value well.</p> - -<p>The Honourable F. C. Drummond, with whom I -was staying at the time, informed me afterwards that -the place where I had been attacked was one of the -worst in the suburbs of Canton, and that three gentlemen -of his acquaintance, a year or two before, -had come off even worse than I had done, the -Chinese having taken away nearly all their clothes.</p> - -<p>About two years after this attack upon me three -gentlemen holding government appointments in -China, Mr. Montgomery Martin, the Rev. V. Stanton, -and Mr. Jackson, having incautiously strolled into -the suburbs, were also attacked; and the letter -which they addressed officially to Her Majesty's -consul complaining of the treatment they had received, -shows so clearly the state of things at Canton, -that I give it entire:—</p> - -<p>"About seven o'clock this morning, while walking -for exercise along the north wall, on the outside -of the city, we were attacked by several Chinese, -who had been following us, and increasing in numbers, -from the building known to foreigners as the -Five-storied Pagoda. At first they commenced by -throwing stones, which endangered our lives, and -by some of which we were struck. This attack was -aided and encouraged by a number of Chinese, who -followed us along the top of the city wall, hurling -large stones, which, if they had struck, would have -killed those at whom they were aimed. Mr. Jackson -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>was first attacked by men brandishing swords -and daggers; his arms were pinioned, and his gold -chain snatched from his neck. The Rev. Mr. -Stanton and Mr. Martin perceiving that Mr. Jackson -was not following returned to aid him, and -were themselves seized. One of the assailants -thrust a dagger at Mr. Martin's breast, two endeavoured -to throw him on the ground, and, whilst -struggling with them, his pockets were rifled. The -same course was pursued with Mr. Jackson and -Mr. Stanton. The latter lost his watch; the former -still retained his, but every thing else was taken. -The assailants then left us; but the persons on the -wall followed us for sometime, hurling large stones -and using menacing gestures and opprobrious -language.</p> - -<p>"Proceeding southward beneath the wall to -reach to the river side, we were again followed and -attacked by another party. Mr. Jackson received -a violent blow on his chest, and a roof was torn up -to furnish large sticks to the assailants. In this -attack Mr. Jackson was deprived of his watch; -our clothes were torn; and at one time the people -were disposed to strip us. No resistance was -offered: it was hopeless to have attempted it, not -only by reason of the numbers and weapons of the -multitude, but also on account of the attack on us -from the watch tower and along the walls.</p> - -<p>"The outrage was entirely unprovoked. Our -own official character, and the presence of a minister -of religion, was a guarantee for peaceful conduct; -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>and had his presence not restrained Mr. Jackson -and Mr. Martin, bloodshed might probably have -ensued. Reaching a more populous part of the -suburbs, we rested a moment and then proceeded -home; but not unfrequently hearing opprobrious -epithets, mingled with cries of 'Kill them, kill -them.'</p> - -<p>"From no nation in Europe would British subjects -suffer this treatment. There can be no excuse -for tolerating a continuance of such conduct -towards us in China; and we think there cannot be -a doubt that the Chinese government have it in -their power effectually to put a stop, not only to -the personal insults which the English daily experience, -but also to prohibit effectually the repetition -of the injuries we have experienced. By the prohibition -to enter the city of Canton, the lower -classes of the Chinese are encouraged to regard us -as inferiors, and to treat us with marked contumely. -No measures, that we are aware of, have ever been -taken by the authorities to prevent the constant -insults to which the British community are subjected; -and which, instead of diminishing by time, -or being subdued by acts of kindness, seem to become -more frequent and more virulent.</p> - -<p>"Anxiously desirous to maintain peace and to -promote amity, we make this representation, believing -that, unless the Chinese authorities remedy -the evils complained of, the most serious consequences -must inevitably and ere long ensue."</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_8" id="Footnote_1_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_8"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Literally, "foreign devil."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_9" id="Footnote_2_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_9"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Presents.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. X.</h3> - -<p>VISIT TO THE NINGPO GREEN TEA DISTRICT.—MOUNTAIN -TRAVELLING CHAIR.—THE BUDDHIST TEMPLE OF TEIN-TUNG.—SCENERY -AROUND THE TEMPLE.—TRADITIONAL HISTORY -COMMUNICATED BY THE PRIEST.—THE TEMPLE AND ITS IDOLS.—INVITATION -TO DINNER WITH THE PRIESTS.—FIRST TRIAL -WITH CHOPSTICKS.—POLITENESS! OF THE CHINESE.—USUAL -DINNER COMPANY.—MY BED.—DEVOTIONS OF THE PRIESTS.—WILD -BOAR HUNT.—NARROW ESCAPE.—MODE OF -FRIGHTENING THE ANIMALS FROM THE BAMBOO PLANTATIONS.—MOUNTAIN -SCENERY.—BUDDHIST TEMPLE OF AH-YU-WANG.-POO-TO-SAN, -OR THE WORSHIPPING ISLAND.—ITS TEMPLES -AND IDOLS.—BRONZE GODS.—TREES AND SHRUBS.—GARDENS -AND PET PLANTS OF THE PRIESTS.—SALE OF GODS OR JOSSES.—OFFERINGS -TO THE GODS IN SHANGHAE AND NINGPO.—PROCESSIONS -IN HONOUR OF THE GODS.—CHRISTIAN MISSIONS.—MEDICAL -MISSIONARY SOCIETY.—ROMAN CATHOLICS.</p> - -<p class="p2">Having despatched my collections to England -by three different vessels from Hong-kong, I sailed -again, at the end of March 1844, for the northern -provinces. During the summer of this year, and -in that of 1845, I was able to visit several parts -of the country, which were formerly scaled to -Europeans, and which contained subjects of much -interest.</p> - -<p>About the beginning of May I set out upon an -excursion with Mr. Thom, the British consul, and -two other gentlemen, to visit the green tea district -near Ningpo. We were informed that there was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>a large and celebrated temple, named <i>Tein-tung</i>, -in the centre of the tea district, and above twenty -miles distant, where we could lodge during our -stay in this part of the country. Twelve or fourteen -miles of our journey was performed by water, -but the canal ending at the foot of the hills we -were obliged to walk, or take chairs for the remainder -of the way. The mountain travelling -chair of China is a very simple contrivance. It -consists merely of two long bamboo poles, with -a board placed between them for a seat, and two -other cross pieces, one for the back and the other -for the feet: a large Chinese umbrella is held -over the head to afford protection from the sun -and rain.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill08"></a> -<img src="images/ill08.jpg" width="450" height="318" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Mountain Chair.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>The Chinese are quite philosophers after their -own fashion. On our way to the temple, when -tired with sitting so long in our boat, we several -times got out and walked along the path on the -sides of the canal. A great number of passage-boats -going in the same direction with ourselves, -and crowded with passengers, kept very near us -for a considerable portion of the way, in order to -satisfy their curiosity. A Chinaman never walks -when he can possibly find any other mode of -conveyance, and these persons were consequently -much surprised to see us apparently enjoying -our walk.</p> - -<p>"Is it not strange," said one, "that these people -prefer walking when they have a boat as well as -ourselves?" A discussion now took place amongst -them as to the reason of this apparently strange -propensity, when one, more wise than his companions, -settled the matter by the pithy observation, -"It is <i>their nature</i> to do so;" which was -apparently satisfactory to all parties.</p> - -<p>It was nearly dark when we reached the temple, -and as the rain had fallen in torrents during -the greater part of the day, we were drenched to -the skin, and in rather a pitiable condition. The -priests seemed much surprised at our appearance, -but at once evinced the greatest hospitality and -kindness, and we soon found ourselves quite at home -amongst them. They brought us fire to dry our -clothes, got ready our dinner, and set apart a -certain number of their best rooms for us to sleep -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>in. We were evidently subjects of great curiosity -to most of them who had never seen an Englishman -before. Our clothes, features, mode of eating, -and manners were all subjects of wonder to -these simple people, who passed off many a good -humoured joke at our expence.</p> - -<p>Glad to get off our clothes, which were still damp, -we retired early to rest. When we arose in the -morning, the view which met our eyes far surpassed -in beauty any scenery which I had ever witnessed -before in China. The temple stands at the head of -a fertile valley in the bosom of the hills. This -valley is well watered by clear streams, which -flow from the mountains, and produces most excellent -crops of rice. The tea shrubs, with their -dark green leaves, are seen dotted on the lower sides -of all the more fertile hills. The temple itself is -approached by a long avenue of Chinese pine trees. -This avenue is at first straight, but near the temple -it winds in a most picturesque manner round the -edges of two artificial lakes, and then ends in a -flight of stone steps, which lead up to the principal -entrance. Behind, and on each side, the mountains -rise, in irregular ridges, from one to two thousand -feet above the level of the sea. These are not like -the barren southern mountains, but are clothed -nearly to their summits with a dense tropical looking -mass of brushwood, shrubs, and trees. Some of -the finest bamboos of China are grown in the ravines, -and the sombre coloured pine attains to a -large size on the sides of the hills. Here, too, I -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>observed some very beautiful specimens of the -new fir (<i>Cryptomeria japonica</i>), and obtained some -plants and seeds of it, which may now be seen -growing in the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick.</p> - -<p>After we had breakfasted, one of the head priests -came and gave us a very pressing invitation to dine -with him about mid-day; and in the meantime he accompanied -us over the monastery, of which he gave -the following history:—"Many hundred years -ago a pious old man retired from the world, and -came to dwell in these mountains, giving himself up -entirely to the performance of religious duties. So -earnest was he in his devotions that he neglected -everything relating to his temporal wants, even to -his daily food. Providence, however, would not -suffer so good a man to starve. Some boys were -sent in a miraculous manner, who daily supplied -him with food. In the course of time the fame of -the sage extended all over the adjacent country, -and disciples flocked to him from all quarters. A -small range of temples was built, and thus commenced -the extensive buildings which now bear -the name of "Tein-tung," or the "Temple of the -Heavenly Boys;" <i>Tein</i> signifying heaven, and <i>tung</i> -a boy. At last the old man died, but his disciples -supplied his place. The fame of the temple spread -far and wide, and votaries came from the most -distant parts of the empire—one of the Chinese -kings being amongst the number—to worship and -leave their offerings at its altars. Larger temples -were built in front of the original ones, and these -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>again in their turn gave way to those spacious -buildings which form the principal part of the -structure of the present day.</p> - -<p>All the temples are crowded with idols, or images -of their favourite gods, such as the "three precious -Buddhas," "the Queen of Heaven"—represented as -sitting on the celebrated lotus or nelumbium—"the -God of War," and many other deified kings -and great men of former days. Many of these -images are from thirty to forty feet in height, and -have a very striking appearance when seen arranged -in these spacious and lofty halls. The priests themselves -reside in a range of low buildings, erected at -right angles with the different temples and courts -which divide them. Each has a little temple in -his own house—a family altar crowded with -small images, where he is often engaged in private -devotion.</p> - -<p>After inspecting the various temples and the belfry, -which contains a noble bronze bell of large dimensions, -our host conducted us back to his house, -where the dinner was already on the table. The -priests of the Buddhist religion are not allowed to -eat animal food at any of their meals. Our dinner -therefore consisted entirely of vegetables, served up -in the usual Chinese style, in a number of small -round basins, the contents of each—soups excepted—being -cut up into small square bits, to be eaten -with chopsticks. The Buddhist priests contrive to -procure a number of vegetables of different kinds, -which, by a peculiar mode of preparation, are -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>rendered very palatable. In fact, so nearly do they -resemble animal food in taste and in appearance, -that at first we were deceived, imagining that the -little bits we were able to get hold of with our -chopsticks were really pieces of fowl or beef. Such, -however, was not the case, as our good host was -consistent on this day at least, and had nothing -but vegetable productions at his table. Several -other priests sat with us at table, and a large number -of others of inferior rank with servants, crowded -around the doors and windows outside. The whole -assemblage must have been much surprised at the -awkward way in which some of us handled our -chopsticks, and, with all their politeness, I observed -they could not refrain from laughing when, after -repeated attempts, some little dainty morsel would -still slip back again into the dish. I know few -things more annoying, and yet laughable too, than -attempting to eat with the Chinese chopsticks for -the first time, more particularly if the operator has -been wandering on the hills all the morning, and is -ravenously hungry. The instruments should first -of all be balanced between the thumb and forefinger -of the right hand; the points are next to be -brought carefully together, just leaving as much -room as will allow the coveted morsel to go in between -them; the little bit is then to be neatly -seized; but alas! in the act of lifting the hand, -one point of the chopstick too often slips past the -other, and the object of all our hopes drops back -again into the dish, or perhaps even into another -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>dish on the table. Again and again the same operation -is tried, until the poor novice loses all patience, -throws down the chopsticks in despair, and seizes -a porcelain spoon, with which he is more successful. -In cases like these the Chinese themselves are -very obliging, although scarcely in a way agreeable -to an Englishman's taste. Your Chinese friend, out -of kindness and politeness, when he sees the dilemma -in which you are, reaches across the table -and seizes, with his own chopsticks, which have -just come out of his mouth, the wished-for morsel, -and with them lays it on the plate before you. In -common politeness you must express your gratitude -and swallow the offering.</p> - -<p>During dinner our host informed us that there -were about a hundred priests connected with the -monastery, but that many were always absent on -missions to various parts of the country. On -questioning him as to the mode by which the establishment -was supported, he informed us that a -considerable portion of land in the vicinity belonged -to the temple, and that large sums were yearly -raised from the sale of bamboos, which are here very -excellent, and of the branches of trees and brushwood, -which are made up in bundles for fire-wood. A -number of tea and rice farms also belong to the -priests, which they themselves cultivate. Besides -the sums raised by the sale of these productions, a -considerable revenue must be derived from the -contributions of the devotees who resort to the -temple for religious purposes, as well as from the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>sums collected by those of the order who are out on -begging excursions at stated seasons of the year. -The priests are of course of all grades, some of -them being merely the servants of the others, both -in the house and in the fields. They seem a harmless -and simple race, but are dreadfully ignorant -and superstitious. The typhoon of the previous -year, or rather the rain which had accompanied it, -had occasioned a large slip of earth on one of the -hill-sides near the temple, and completely buried -ten or twelve acres of excellent paddy land. On -our remarking this, the priests told us with great -earnestness that every one said it was a bad omen -for the temple; but one of them with true Chinese -politeness remarked that he had no doubt any evil -influence would now be counteracted, since the -temple had been honoured with a visit from us.</p> - -<p>After inspecting the tea farms and the mode of -manufacturing it, Mr. Thom, Mr. Morrison, a son -of the late Dr. Morrison, and Mr. Sinclair, returned -to Ningpo, leaving me to prosecute my research in -natural history in this part of the country. I was -generally absent from the temple the whole day, -returning at dark with the collections of plants and -birds which I had been lucky enough to meet with -in my peregrinations. The friends of the priests -came from all quarters of the adjacent country to -see the foreigner; and, as in the case of a wild -animal, my feeding time seemed to be the most -interesting moment to them. My dinner was placed -on a round table in the centre of the room, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>although rather curiously concocted, being half -Chinese and half English, the exercise and fresh air -of the mountains gave me a keen appetite. The -difficulties of the chopsticks were soon got over, and -I was able to manage them nearly as well as the -Chinese themselves. The priests and their friends -tilled the chairs, which are always placed down the -sides of a Chinese hall, each man with his pipe in -his mouth and his cup of tea by his side. With all -deference to my host and his friends, I was obliged -to request the smoking to be stopped, as it was disagreeable -to me while at dinner; in other respects, I -believe I was "polite" enough. I shall never forget -how inexpressibly lonely I felt the first night after -the departure of my friends. The Chinese one by -one dropt off to their homes or to bed, and at last -my host himself gave several unequivocal yawns, -which reminded me that it was time to retire for -the night. My bed-room was upstairs, and to get -to it I had to pass through a small temple, such as I -have already noticed, dedicated to <i>Tein-how</i>, or the -"Queen of Heaven," and crowded with other idols. -Incense was burning on the altar in front of the -idols; a solitary lamp shed a dim light over the -objects in the room, and a kind of solemn stillness -seemed to pervade the whole place. In the room -below, and also in one in an adjoining house, I -could hear the priests engaged in their devotional -exercises, in that singing tone which is peculiar to -them. Then the sounds of the gong fell upon my -ears; and, at intervals, a single solemn toll of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>large bronze bell in the belfry; all which showed -that the priests were engaged in public as well as -private devotion. Amidst scenes of this kind, in a -strange country, far from friends and home, impressions -are apt to be made upon the mind, which -remain vivid through life; and I feel convinced I -shall never forget the strange mixture of feelings -which filled my mind during the first night of my -stay with the priests in the temple of Tein-tung. -I have visited the place often since, passed through -the same little temple, slept in the same bed, and -heard the same solemn sounds throughout the silent -watches of the night, and yet the first impressions -remain in my mind distinct and single.</p> - -<p>The priests, from the highest to the lowest, -always showed me the most marked attention and -kindness. As many of them as I wished cheerfully -followed me in my excursions in the vicinity -of the temple; one carrying my specimen -paper, another my plants, and a third my birds, -and so on. The gun seemed an object of great -interest to them, being so different from their -own clumsy matchlocks; and percussion caps -were looked upon as most magical little objects. -But they were great cowards, and always kept at -a most respectful distance when I was shooting.</p> - -<p>One evening a deputation, headed by the high -priest, came and informed me that the wild boars -had come down from the mountains at night, and -were destroying the young shoots of the bamboo, -which were then just coming through the ground, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>and were in the state in which they are highly -prized as a vegetable for the table. "Well," said -I, "what do you want me to do?"</p> - -<p>"Will you be good enough to lend us the gun?"</p> - -<p>"Yes; there it stands in the corner of the -room."</p> - -<p>"Oh, but you must load it for us."</p> - -<p>"Very well, I will;" and I immediately loaded -the gun with ball. "There, but take care and -don't shoot yourselves." There was now a long -pause; none had sufficient courage to take the -gun, and a long consultation was held between -them. At length the spokesman came forward, -with great gravity, and told me they were afraid -to fire it off, but that if I would go with them, -and shoot the boar, I should have it to eat. This -was certainly no great sacrifice on the part of -the Budhist priesthood, who do not, or at least -should not, eat animal food. We now sallied forth -in a body to fight the wild boars; but the night was -so dark that we could see nothing in the bamboo -ravines, and, perhaps, the noise made by about -thirty priests and servants warned the animals to -retire to the brushwood higher up the hills. Be -that as it may, we could neither see nor hear any -thing of them, and I confess I was rather glad, -than otherwise, as I thought there was a considerable -chance of my shooting, by mistake, a -priest instead of a wild boar.</p> - -<p>The priests have two modes of protecting their -property from the ravages of these animals. Deep -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>pits are dug on the hill sides, and, as there are -springs in almost all these places, the pits are -scarcely finished before they are half full of water. -The mouth of each pit is then covered over with a -quantity of sticks, rubbish, and grass, to attract -the animal, and no sooner does he begin to bore -into it with his snout, than the whole gives way, -and he is plunged, head foremost, into the pit, -from which it is quite impossible for him to extricate -himself, and he is either drowned or becomes -an easy prey to the Chinese. These pits are most -dangerous traps to persons unacquainted with the -localities in which they are placed. I had several -narrow escapes, and once in particular, when coming -out of a dense mass of brushwood, I stept -unawares on the treacherous mouth of one of them, -and felt the ground under my feet actually giving -way; but managing to throw my arms forward I -caught hold of a small twig which was growing -near, and by this means supported myself until -I was able to scramble on to firmer ground. On -turning back to examine the place, I found that -the loose rubbish had sunk in, and a deep pit, half -full of water, was exposed to my view. The pit -was made narrow at the mouth and widening inside -like a great China vase, being constructed in -this manner to prevent the boar from scrambling -out when once fairly in it. Had I fallen in, it -would have been next to impossible to have extricated -myself without assistance, and as the pits are -generally dug in the most retired and wild part of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>the mountains, my chance would have been a bad -one. The fate of my predecessor, Mr. Douglas, -who perished in a pit of this kind on the Sandwich -Islands, must still be fresh in the recollection of -many of my readers, and his melancholy end -naturally coming to my mind at the time, made -me doubly thankful for my escape.</p> - -<p>The other method of protecting the young -bamboos from the ravages of the wild boar, is an -ingenious one. A piece of bamboo wood, about -eight or ten feet long, and rather thicker than a -man's arm, is split up the middle to within a fourth -of its length. This is made fast to a tree in the -bamboo thicket, and at an angle of about forty-five -degrees, the split part being left loose, a cord, -also made of bamboo, is fastened to it by one end, -and the other is led to some convenient place out -of the thicket, where a man is stationed. When -the boars come down in the dead of night to -attack the young shoots, the man pulls the rope -backwards and forwards, and clank, clank, clank -goes the bamboo, producing a loud and hollow -sound, which on a quiet evening may be heard at a -great distance. The animals are frightened and -make off to their dens on the hills. The first time -I heard these things beating at night, all over the -country, I imagined that some religious ceremony -was going on, the hollow sounds of the bamboo -being not unlike those produced by an instrument -used in the Budhist worship in all Chinese temples.</p> - -<p>There are a large number of Budhist temples -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>scattered over all this part of the country. One, -named <i>Ah-yu-wang</i>, which I also visited, is, like -<i>Tein-tung</i>, of great extent, and seemingly well supported. -They both own large tracts of land in the -vicinity of the monasteries, and have numerous -small temples in different parts of the district which -are under their control. All the temples, both -large and small, are built in the most romantic and -beautiful situations amongst the hills, and the -neighbouring woods are always preserved and encouraged. -What would indicate the residence of a -country gentleman in England, is in China the sign -of a Budhist temple, and this holds good over all -the country. When the weary traveller, therefore, -who has been exposed for hours to the fierce -rays of an eastern sun, sees a large clean looking -house showing itself amongst trees on the distant -hill-side, he may be almost certain that it is one of -Budha's temples, where the priests will treat him not -only with courtesy, but with kindness.</p> - -<p><i>Poo-to</i>, or the Worshipping Island, as it is commonly -called by foreigners, is one of the eastern -islands in the Chusan Archipelago, and seems to be -the capital or stronghold of Budhism in this part of -China. This island is not more than five or six -miles in circumference, and, although hilly, its sides -and small ravines are pretty well wooded, particularly -in the vicinity of the numerous temples. As -it is only a few hours' sail from Chusan, it had been -visited at different times by a number of our officers -during the war, all of whom spoke highly of its -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>natural beauties and richness of vegetation. I was -also informed that the resident priests were fond of -collecting plants, particularly Orchidaceæ, and that -their collections were much increased by the itinerant -habits of the begging priests, who visit the -most distant provinces of the empire, as well as by -the donations of the lay devotees, who come to -Poo-to at stated seasons of the year, to worship and -leave their offerings in the temples. I therefore determined -to visit the place in order to judge for myself, -and accordingly set out in July, 1844, accompanied -by my friend, Dr. Maxwell, of the Madras army.</p> - -<p>Leaving Chusan at night, with the tide in our -favour, we reached the island at sun-rise on the following -morning. We landed, and pursued our -way over a hill and down on the other side by a -road which led us into a beautiful and romantic -glen. It is here that the principal group of temples -is built, and when we first caught a glimpse of them, -as we wended our way down the hill, they seemed -like a town of considerable size. As we approached -nearer, the view became highly interesting. In -front there was a large artificial pond, filled with -the broad green leaves and noble red and white -flowers of the <i>Nelumbium speciosum</i>,—a plant in -high favour with the Chinese. Every body who went -to Poo-to admired these beautiful water-lilies. In -order to reach the monastery we crossed a very ornamental -bridge built over this pond, which, when -viewed in a line with an old tower close by, has a -pretty and striking appearance.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>The temples or halls which contain the idols -are extremely spacious, and resemble those which -I have already described at <i>Tein-tung</i> and <i>Ah-yu-Wang</i>. -These idols, many of which are thirty or -forty feet in height, are generally made of wood or -clay, and then richly gilt. There is one small -temple, however, of a very unassuming appearance, -where we met with some exquisite bronze statues, -which would be considered of great value in England. -These, of course, were much smaller than -the others, but, viewed as works of art, they were -by far the finest which I saw during my travels in -China.</p> - -<p>Having examined these temples, we pursued our -way towards another assemblage of them, about -two miles to the eastward and close on the sea-shore. -We entered the courts through a kind of -triumphal arch, which looks out upon the sea, and -found that these temples were constructed upon -the same plan as all the others. As we had -determined to make this part of the island our -home during our stay, we fixed upon the cleanest -looking temple, and asked the High Priest to allow -us, without farther delay, to put our beds and -travelling baggage into it.</p> - -<p>On the following day we inspected various parts -of the island. Besides the large temples just noticed, -there are about sixty or seventy smaller ones, -built on all the hill sides, each of which contains -three or four priests, who are all under the superior, -or abbot, who resides near one of the large temples. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>Even on the top of the highest hill, probably 1500 -or 1800 feet above the level of the sea, we found a -temple of considerable size and in excellent repair. -There are winding stone steps from the sea beach -all the way up to this temple, and a small resting-place -about half way up the hill, where the weary -devotee may rest and drink of the refreshing stream -which flows down the sides of the mountain, and -in the little temple close at hand, which is also -crowded with idols, he can supplicate Budha for -strength to enable him to reach the end of his -journey. We were surprised to find a Budhist -temple in such excellent order as the one on the -summit of the hill proved to be in. It is a striking -fact, that almost all these places are crumbling fast -into ruins. There are a few exceptions, in cases -where they happen to get a good name amongst -the people from the supposed kindness of the gods; -but the great mass are in a state of decay.</p> - -<p>From the upper temple on Poo-to-san the view is -strikingly grand. Hugged mountains are seen rising -one above another and capped with clouds. Hundreds -of islands, some fertile, others rocky and -barren, lay scattered over the sea. When we looked -in one direction amongst the islands, the water was -yellow and muddy; but, to the eastward, the deep -blue ocean had resumed its usual colour, and the line -between the yellow waters and the blue was distinctly -and curiously marked.</p> - -<p>The wood on the island is preserved in the same -manner as it is around all the other Budhist temples. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>The principal species of trees and shrubs met with -are <i>Pinus sinensis, Cunningham lanceolata</i>, yews, -cypresses, the camphor tree, tallow tree, oaks, and -bamboos. The <i>Camellia japonica</i> grows spontaneously -in the woods, where we met with many -specimens from twenty to thirty feet in height and -with stems thick in proportion. The variety, however, -was only the well-known single red. In -other respects the flora of Poo-to is nearly the same -as on the island of Chusan.</p> - -<p>A few pet plants were cultivated by all the -priests who were fortunate enough to have private -residences at the little temples on the sides of the -hills. We were much pleased with the interest these -poor people took in their favourite flowers, but -were disappointed in the number and variety of -plants, which, from the reports of others, we expected -to have found. Almost the only orchidaceous -plant which they had, proved to be the common and -well-known <i>Cymbidium sinense. Daphne odorata</i>, -two or three species of <i>Gardenia</i>, several varieties -of Rose, the common Balsam, and the favourite -<i>Nelumbium</i> were nearly all the plants met with in -the gardens of the priests.</p> - -<p>The island of Poo-to is set apart entirely as a -residence for the priests of the Budhist religion. -Few other persons are allowed to live there, and -these are either servants or in some way connected -with the priests. No women are permitted to reside -on the island, it being against the principles of the -Budhists to allow their priests to marry. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>number of priests are estimated at 2000, but many -of them are constantly absent on begging expeditions -for the support of their religion. This establishment, -like Tein-tung, has also a portion of land -allotted to it for its support, and the remainder of -the funds are made up by the subscriptions of the -devotees. On certain high days, at different periods -of the year, many thousands of both sexes, but particularly -females, resort to these temples, clad in -their best attire, to pay their vows and engage in -the other exercises of heathen worship. Little -stalls are then seen in the temples or at the doorways -for the sale of incense, candles, paper made -up in the form of the ingots of Sycee-silver, -and other holy things which are considered acceptable -offerings to the gods, and are either consumed -in the temples or carried home to bring a blessing -upon the houses and families of those who purchase -them. The profits of these sales, of course, go to -the support of the establishment. When we consider -that these poor deluded people sometimes -travel a distance of several hundred miles to worship -in the temples on Poo-to-san and other celebrated -places, we cannot but admire their spirit of devotion. -I was once staying in the temple of <i>Tein-tung</i> -when it was visited for three days by devotees from -all parts of the country. As they lined the roads -on their way to the temple, clad in the graceful and -flowing costume of the East, the mind was naturally -led back to those days of scripture history when -Jerusalem was in its glory, and the Jews, the chosen -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>people of God, came from afar to worship in its -temple.</p> - -<p>Although no Christian can look upon the priests -and devotees of the Budhist creed without an eye -of pity, yet he must give them credit for their conduct, -since he has every reason to believe them sincere, -and I am inclined to believe that justice has not -been done them in this respect. Mr. Gutzlaff, in -describing his visit to Poo-to, is of a different opinion. -He says, "We were present at the vespers -of the priests, which they chanted in the Pali language, -not unlike the Latin service of the Romish -church. They held rosaries in their hands, which -rested folded upon their breasts. One of them had -a small bell, by the tinkling of which their service -was regulated; and they occasionally beat the -drum and large bell to rouse Budha's attention to -their prayers. The same words were a hundred -times repeated. <i>None of the officiating persons showed -any interest in the ceremony</i>, for some were looking -around laughing and joking, while others muttered -their prayers. The few people who were present, -not to attend the worship, but to gaze at us, did -not seem, in the least degree, to feel the solemnity -of the service. "What Mr. Gutzlaff says is doubtless -true, but after residing for months in their -temples, at different times, and in different parts of -the country, I have no hesitation in saying that -such conduct is very far from being general. In -certain instances I have seen it myself, but this -levity and apparent want of attention was exhibited -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>by the servants and lookers on, who were taking -no part in the ceremony, and not by the respectable -portion of the priests. On the contrary, I -have generally been struck with the solemnity with -which their devotional exercises were conducted. -I have often walked into Chinese temples when the -priests were engaged in prayer, and, although there -would have been some apology for them had their -attention been diverted, they went on in the most -solemn manner until the conclusion of the service, -as if no foreigner were present. They then came -politely up to me, examining my dress and every -thing about me with the most earnest curiosity. -Nor does this apply to priests only; the laity, and -particularly the female sex, seem equally sincere -when they engage in their public devotions. -Whether they are what they appear to be, or how -often they are in this pious frame of mind, are -questions which I cannot answer. Before judging -harshly of the Chinese let the reader consider what -effect would be produced upon the members of a -<i>Christian</i> church by the unexpected entrance of a -small-footed Chinese lady, or a Mandarin, with the -gold button and peacock feather mounted on his -hat, and his long tail dangling over his shoulders. -I am far from being an admirer of the Budhist -priesthood; they are generally an imbecile race, -and shamefully ignorant of every thing but the -simple forms of their religion, but nevertheless -there are many traits in their character not unworthy -of imitation.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>There are two other sects in China, namely, the -followers of <i>Kong-foo-tze</i> or Confucius, and the -sect of <i>Taou</i> or Reason. Although these three -sects form the principal part of the population, it -is well known that there are a great number of -Mohommedans in every part of the empire, who are -not only tolerated, but admitted to offices under -government in the same manner as the members of -the three established sects. Jews also are found -in several districts, but more particularly at a -place called Kae-foong-foo, in the province of -Honan.</p> - -<p>The various religious ceremonies which the -Chinese are continually performing prove at least -that they are very superstitions. In all the -southern towns every house has its temple or altar -both inside and outside. The altar in the inside -is generally placed at the end of the principal hall -or shop, as the case may be, raised a few feet from -the ground, and having some kind of representation -of the family deity placed upon it. This is surrounded -with gaudy tinsel paper, and on the first -of the Chinese month or other high days candles -and incense are burned on the table which is placed -in front of it. The altar on the outside of the door -resembles a little furnace, in which the same ceremonies -are regularly performed. In the vicinity -of small villages, and sometimes in the most retired -situations, the stranger meets with little joss-houses -or temples, gaudily decorated with paintings -and tinsel paper, and stuck round about with -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>the remains of candles and sticks of incense. In -almost all Chinese towns there are shops for the -sale of idols of all kinds and sizes, varying in price -from a few "cash" to a very large sum. Many of -those exposed for sale are of great age, and have -evidently changed hands several times. I am -inclined to believe that the Chinese exchange those -gods which do not please them for others of higher -character, and which they suppose are more likely -to grant an answer to their prayers, or bring -prosperity to their homes or their villages.</p> - -<p>The periodical offerings to the gods are very -striking exhibitions to the stranger who looks upon -them for the first time. When staying at Shanghae, -in November, 1844, I witnessed a most curious -spectacle in the house where I was residing. It -was a family offering to the gods. Early in the -morning the principal hall in the house was set in -order, a large table was placed in the centre, and -shortly afterwards covered with small dishes filled -with the various articles commonly used as food by -the Chinese. All these were of the very best description -which could be procured. After a certain -time had elapsed a number of candles were lighted, -and columns of smoke and fragrant odours began -to rise from the incense which was burning on the -table. All the inmates of the house and their -friends were clad in their best attire, and in turn -came to <i>Ko-tou</i>, or bow lowly and repeatedly in -front of the table and the altar. The scene, -although it was an idolatrous one, seemed to me to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>have something very impressive about it, and -whilst I pitied the delusion of our host and his -friends, I could not but admire their devotion. In -a short time after this ceremony was completed a -large quantity of tinsel paper, made up in the form -and shape of the ingots of Sycee silver common in -China, was heaped on the floor in front of the -tables, the burning incense was then taken from -the table and placed in the midst of it, and the -whole consumed together. By and by, when the -gods were supposed to have finished their repast, -all the articles of food were removed from the -tables, cut up, and consumed by people connected -with the family.</p> - -<p>On another occasion, when at Ning-po, having -been out some distance in the country, it was -night and dark before I reached the cast gate of -the city, near which I was lodged in the house of a -Chinese merchant. The city gates were closed, -but two or three loud knocks soon brought the -warder, who instantly admitted me. I was now -in the widest and finest street in the city, which -seemed in a blaze of light and unusually lively for -any part of a Chinese town after nightfall. The -sounds of music fell, upon my ear, the gong, the -drum, and the more plaintive and pleasing tones of -several wind instruments. I was soon near enough -to observe what was going on, and saw, at a glance, -that it was a public offering to the gods, but far -grander and more striking than I had before witnessed. -The table was spread in the open street, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>and every thing was on a large and expensive -scale. Instead of small dishes, whole animals were -sacrificed on the occasion. A pig was placed on -one side of the table, and a sheep on the other, the -former scraped clean, in the usual way, and the -latter skinned; the entrails of both were removed, -and on each were placed some flowers, an onion, -and a knife. The other parts of the table groaned -with all the delicacies in common use amongst the -respectable portion of the Chinese, such as fowls, -ducks, numerous compound dishes, fruits, vegetables, -and rice. Chairs were placed at one end -of the table on which the gods were supposed to sit -during the meal, and chopsticks were regularly laid -at the sides of the different dishes. A blaze of -light illuminated the whole place, and the smoke -of the fragrant incense rose up into the air in -wreaths. At intervals the band struck up their -favourite plaintive national airs, and altogether -the whole scene was one of the strangest and -most curious which it has ever been my lot to -witness.</p> - -<p>There is another ceremony of a religious character -which I frequently observed in the northern -cities—I allude to processions in honour of the -gods. I saw one of them at Shanghae, which -must have been at least a mile in length. The -gods, or josses, were dressed up in the finest silks, -and carried about in splendid sedan-chairs, preceded -and succeeded by their numerous devotees, -superbly dressed for the occasion, and bearing the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>different badges of office. The dresses of the -officials were exactly the same as of those who form -the train of some of the high mandarins. Some -had a broad fan, made of peacock feathers, which -they wore on the sides of their hats, others were -clad in glaring theatrical dresses, with low caps, -and two long black feathers stuck in them, and -hanging over their shoulders like two horns. Then -there were the ill-looking executioners with long, -conical, black hats on their heads, and whips in -their hands for the punishment of the refractory. -Bands of music, placed in different parts of the -procession, played at intervals as it proceeded. -Anxious to see the end of this curious exhibition, -I followed the procession until it arrived at a -temple in the suburbs, where it halted. The gods -were taken out of the sedan-chairs, and replaced -with due honours, in the temple, from which they -had been taken in the morning. Here their numerous -votaries bent low before them, burned -incense, and left their gifts upon the altar. Numerous -groups of well-dressed ladies and their -children were scattered over the ground in the -vicinity of the temple, all bending their knees -and seemingly engaged in earnest devotion. A -large quantity of paper, in the form of the Sycee -ingots, was heaped up on the grass as it was -brought by the different devotees, and, when the -ceremonies of the day were drawing to a close, the -whole was burned in honour of, or as an offering -to, the gods. The sight was interesting, but it -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>was one which no Christian could look upon without -feelings of the deepest commiseration.</p> - -<p>In the course of my travels in China I often -met with Christian missionaries, both Protestant -and Roman Catholic, who have been labouring -amongst the Chinese for many years. Until very -lately the efforts of the Protestants had been chiefly -confined to Macao and Canton. Since the war, -however, they have had an opportunity of extending -their operations, and some are now settled at -all the new ports which have been opened for -foreign trade, as well as on our Island of Hong-kong, -which will now become their head-quarters.</p> - -<p>The medical missionaries also act in conjunction -with the others, and are of great use in curing -many of the diseases which prevail in the country, -while, at the same time, the truths of the Christian -faith are presented to the minds of their patients. -Dr. Lockhart of the London Missionary Society, -who has established himself in the town of Shanghae, -had his hospital daily crowded with patients, -many of whom had come from very distant parts -of the country. All were attended to in the most -skilful and careful manner, "without money and -without price." The Rev. Mr. Medhurst, who has -laboured long and zealously as a Christian missionary -in the East, was also at Shanghae. This -gentleman is well known as an eminent Chinese -scholar, and, besides preaching to the people in -their own tongue, he has a printing establishment -with Chinese type continually at work, for the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>dissemination of the truths of the gospel. Several -other gentlemen and their families had arrived at -the same port previous to my departure, and were -closely engaged in the study of the language. -Ning-po and Amoy were also occupied by missionaries, -both from England and America, and I -suppose, ere this time, some have also reached -Foo-chow-foo on the River Min.</p> - -<p>From my own experience of Chinese character, -and from what I have seen of the working of the -Medical Missionary Society, I am convinced that it -must be a powerful auxiliary to the missionaries -in the conversion of the Chinese. I regret, however, -to say, that up to the present time little progress -appears to have been made. One portion of -the people, and a large one, is entirely indifferent -to religion of any kind, and the rest are so bigoted -and conceited, that it will be a most difficult task -to convince them that any religion is better or -purer than their own.</p> - -<p>The Roman Catholic missionaries conduct their -operations in a manner somewhat different from -the Protestants. They do not restrict themselves -to the out-ports of the empire, where foreigners are -permitted to trade, but penetrate into the interior, -and distribute themselves over all the country. -One of their bishops, an Italian nobleman, resides -in the province of Keang-soo, a few miles from -Shanghae, where I have frequently met him. He -dresses in the costume of the country, and speaks -the language with the most perfect fluency. In -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span>the place where he lives he is surrounded by his -converts; in fact it is a little Christian village, -where he is perfectly safe, and I believe is seldom -if ever annoyed in any way by the Chinese authorities. -When new Roman Catholic missionaries -arrive, they are met by some of their brethren or -their converts at the port nearest their destination, -and secretly conveyed into the interior; the -Chinese dress is substituted for the European; -their heads are shaved, and in this state they are -conducted to the scene of their future labours, -where they commence the study of the language, if -they have not learned it before, and in about two -years are able to speak it sufficiently well to -enable them to instruct the people. These poor -men submit to many privations and dangers for -the cause they have espoused, and although I do -not approve of the doctrines which they teach, I -must give them the highest praise for enthusiasm -and devotion to their faith. European customs, -habits, and luxuries are all abandoned from -the moment they put their feet on the shores of -China; parents, friends, and home, in many instances, -are heard of no more; before them lies a -heathen land of strangers, cold and unconcerned -about the religion for which they themselves are -sacrificing everything, and they know that their -graves will be far away from the land of their birth -and the home of their early years. They seem to -have much of the spirit and enthusiasm of the first -preachers of the Christian religion, when they were -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span>sent out into the world by their Divine Master to -"preach the gospel to every creature," and "to -obey God rather than man."</p> - -<p>According to the accounts of these missionaries, -the number of converts to their faith is very considerable; -but I fear they, as well as the Protestants, -are often led away by false appearances -and assertions. Many of the Chinese are unprincipled -and deceitful enough to become Christians -or in fact any thing else, in name, to accomplish -the object they may have in view, and they -would become Budhists the very next day should -any inducement be offered them to do so. Judging -from appearances, the day must yet be very -distant when the Chinese, as a nation, will be converted -to the Christian faith. Could those individuals -in our time, who predict the near approach -of the Millennium, see the length and breadth of -this vast country, with its three hundred millions -of souls, they would surely pause and reflect before -they published their absurd and foolish predictions.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XI.</h3> - -<p>THE TEA-PLANT OF CHINA.—THE SPECIES FOUND IN THE GREEN -AND BLACK TEA DISTRICTS.—BEST SITUATION FOR TEA PLANTATIONS.—REMARKS -ON THEIR MANAGEMENT.—SEASONS, -AND METHODS, OF GATHERING THE LEAVES.—MANUFACTURE -OF TEA.—COTTAGES AMONGST THE TEA HILLS.—FURNACES -AND DRYING PANS.—FIRST APPLICATION OF HEAT.—ROLLING -PROCESS.—EXPOSURE OF THE LEAVES TO THE AIR.—SECOND -HEATING.—LENGTH OF TIME REQUIRED.—TWO KINDS OF TEA.—DIFFERENCE -IN THE MANUFACTURE OF EACH.—SELECTING -AND PACKING TEAS.—APPEARANCE AND COLOUR OF -THE LEAF.—PECULIAR TASTE OF FOREIGNERS FOR DYED -TEAS.—GOOD SENSE OF THE CHINESE.—TEA MERCHANTS.—THEIR -VISITS TO THE TEA HILLS.—MODE OF BUYING FROM -THE SMALL GROWERS.—BLACK TEA DISTRICT IN FOKIEN.—TEAS -DIVIDED INTO TWO KINDS.—PECULIAR METHOD OF -PREPARING EACH.—CAUSE OF THEIR DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR.—FLOWERS -USED IN SCENTING THE FINER TEAS.—SIR JOHN -FRANCIS DAVIS'S REMARKS ON DIFFERENT KINDS OF TEAS SOLD -AT CANTON.</p> - -<p class="p2">There are few subjects connected with the vegetable -kingdom which have attracted such a large -share of public notice as the tea-plant of China. -Its cultivation on the Chinese hills, the particular -species or variety which produces the black and -green teas of commerce, and the method of preparing -the leaves, have always been objects of peculiar -interest. The jealousy of the Chinese government, -in former times, prevented foreigners from visiting -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>any of the districts where tea is cultivated, and -the information derived from the Chinese merchants, -even scanty as it was, was not to be -depended upon. And hence we find our English -authors contradicting each other, some asserting -that the black and green teas are produced by the -same variety, and that the difference in colour is -the result of a different mode of preparation, while -others say that the black teas are produced from -the plant called by botanists <i>Thea Bohea</i>, and the -green from <i>Thea viridis</i>, both of which we have -had for many years in our gardens in England.</p> - -<p>During my travels in China since the last war, -I have had frequent opportunities of inspecting -some extensive tea districts in the black and green -tea countries of Canton, Fokien, and Chekiang, and -the result of these observations is now laid before -the reader. It will prove that even those who have -had the best means of judging have been deceived, -and that the greater part of the black and green teas -which are brought yearly from China to Europe -and America are obtained from the same species or -variety, namely, from the <i>Thea viridis</i>. Dried -specimens of this plant were prepared in the districts -I have named by myself, and are now in the -herbarium of the Horticultural Society of London, -so that there can be no longer any doubt upon -the subject.</p> - -<p>In various parts of the Canton province, where -I had an opportunity of seeing tea cultivated, the -species proved to be the <i>Thea Bohea</i>, or what is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>commonly called the black tea plant. In the green -tea districts of the north—I allude more particularly -to the province of Chekiang—I never -met with a single plant of this species, which is so -common in the fields and gardens near Canton. -All the plants in the green tea country near -Ning-po, on the Islands of the Chusan Archipelago, -and in every part of the province which I had an -opportunity of visiting, proved, without exception, -to be the <i>Thea viridis</i>. Two hundred miles further -to the north-west, in the province of Kiang-nan, -and only a short distance from the tea hills in that -quarter, I also found in gardens this same species -of tea.</p> - -<p>Thus far my actual observation exactly verified -the opinions I had formed on the subject before -I left England, viz., that the black teas were prepared -from the <i>Thea Bohea</i>, and the green from -<i>Thea viridis</i>. When I left the north, on my way -to the city of Foo-chow-foo, on the River Min, in -the province of Fokien, I had no doubt that I -should find the tea hills there covered with the -other species, <i>Thea Bohea</i>, from which we generally -suppose the black teas are made; and this was the -more likely to be the case as this species actually -derives its specific name from the Bohee hills in -this province. Great was my surprise to find all -the plants on the tea hills near Foo-chow exactly -the same as those in the green tea districts of the -north. Here were then green tea plantations on -the black tea hills, and not a single plant of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>Thea Bohea to be seen. Moreover, at the time of -my visit, the natives were busily employed in the -<i>manufacture of black teas</i>. Although the specific -differences of the tea-plants were well known to me, -I was so much surprised, and I may add amused, at -this discovery, that I procured a set of specimens -for the herbarium, and also dug up a living plant, -which I took northward to Chekiang. On comparing -it with those which grow on the green tea -hills, no difference whatever was observed.</p> - -<p>It appears, therefore, that the black and green -teas of the northern districts of China (those districts -in which the greater part of the teas for the -foreign markets are made) are both produced from -the same variety, and that that variety is the <i>Thea -viridis</i>, or, what is commonly called the green tea -plant. On the other hand, those black and green -teas which are manufactured in considerable quantities -in the vicinity of Canton are obtained from -the <i>Thea Bohea</i>, or black tea. And, really, when -we give the subject our unprejudiced consideration, -there seems nothing surprising in this state -of things. Moreover, we must bear in mind that -our former opinions were formed upon statements -made to us by the Chinese at Canton, who will say -any thing which suits their purpose, and rarely give -themselves any trouble to ascertain whether the information -they communicate be true or false.</p> - -<p>The soil of the tea districts is, of course, much -richer in the northern provinces than it is in Quantung. -In Fokien and Chekiang it is a rich sandy -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>loam, very different from the sample which will -be found noticed in the chapter on climate and -soil. Tea shrubs will not succeed well unless they -have a rich soil to grow in. The continual gathering -of their leaves is very detrimental to their -health, and, in fact, ultimately kills them. Hence -a principal object with the grower is to keep his -bushes in as robust health as possible; and this -cannot be done if the soil be poor.</p> - -<p>The tea plantations in the north of China are -always situated on the lower and most fertile sides -of the hills, and never on the low lands. The -shrubs are planted in rows about four feet apart -and about the same distance between each row, -and look, at a distance, like little shrubberies of -evergreens.</p> - -<p>The farms are small, each consisting of from one -to four or five acres; indeed, every cottager has his -own little tea garden, the produce of which supplies -the wants of his family, and the surplus brings him -in a few dollars, which are spent on the other necessaries -of life. The same system is practised in -every thing relating to Chinese agriculture. The -cotton, silk, and rice farms are generally all small -and managed upon the same plan. There are few -sights more pleasing than a Chinese family in the -interior engaged in gathering the tea leaves, or, -indeed, in any of their other agricultural pursuits. -There is the old man, it may be the grand—father, or -even the great-grandfather, patriarch like, directing -his descendants, many of whom are in their -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span>youth and prime, while others are in their childhood, -in the labours of the field. He stands in the midst -of them, bowed down with age. But, to the honour -of the Chinese as a nation, he is always looked up -to by all with pride and affection, and his old age -and grey hairs are honoured, revered, and loved. -When, after the labours of the day are over, they -return to their humble and happy homes, their fare -consists chiefly of rice, fish, and vegetables, which -they enjoy with great zest, and are happy and contented. -I really believe that there is no country in -the world where the agricultural population are -better off than they are in the north of China. -Labour with them is pleasure, for its fruits are -eaten by themselves, and the rod of the oppressor is -unfelt and unknown.</p> - -<p>In the green tea districts of Chekiang near -Ning-po, the first crop of leaves is generally -gathered about the middle of April. This consists -of the young leaf-buds just as they begin to -unfold, and forms a fine and delicate kind of -young hyson, which is held in high estimation by -the natives, and is generally sent about in small -quantities as presents to their friends. It is a -scarce and expensive article, and the picking of -the leaves in such a young state does considerable -injury to the tea plantations. The summer rains, -however, which fall copiously about this season, -moisten the earth and air, and if the plants are -young and vigorous they soon push out fresh -leaves.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>In a fortnight or three weeks from the time of -the first picking, or about the beginning of May, -the shrubs are again covered with fresh leaves, -and are ready for the second gathering, which is, -in fact, the most important of the season. The -third and last gathering, which takes place as -soon as new leaves are formed, produces a very -inferior kind of tea, which, I believe, is rarely sent -out of the district.</p> - -<p>The mode of gathering and preparing the -leaves of the tea-plants is extremely simple. We -have been so long accustomed to magnify and -mystify every thing relating to the Chinese, that, -in all their arts and manufactures, we expect to -find some peculiar and out of the way practice, -when the fact is, that many operations in China -are more simple in their character than in most -other parts of the world. To rightly understand -the process of rolling and drying the leaves, which -I am about to describe, it must be borne in mind -that the grand object is to expel the moisture, and -at the same time to retain, as much as possible, of -the aromatic and other desirable secretions of the -species. The system adopted to attain this end -is as simple as it is efficacious.</p> - -<p>In the harvest seasons the natives are seen in little -family groups on the side of every hill, when the -weather is dry, engaged in gathering the tea leaves. -They do not seem so particular, as I imagined -they would have been, in this operation, but strip -the leaves off rapidly and promiscuously, and throw -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>them all into round baskets made for the purpose -out of split bamboo or rattan. In the beginning -of May, when the principal gathering takes place, -the young seed vessels are about as large as peas. -These are also stripped off and dried with the -leaves; it is these seed-vessels, which we often see -in our tea, and which have some slight resemblance -to young capers. When a sufficient quantity -of leaves are gathered, they are carried home -to the cottage or barn, where the operation of -drying is performed.</p> - -<p>The Chinese cottages, amongst the tea hills, are -simple and rude in their construction, and remind -one of what we used to see in Scotland in former -years, when the cow and pig lived and fed in the -same house with the peasant. Scottish cottages, -however, even in these days, were always better -furnished and more comfortable than those of the -Chinese are at the present time. Nevertheless, it -is in these poor cottages that a large proportion of -the teas, with their high-sounding names, are first -prepared. Barns, sheds, and other outhouses, are -also frequently used for the same purpose, particularly -about the temples and monasteries.</p> - -<p>The drying pans and furnaces in these places -are very simply constructed. The pans, which are -of iron, and are made as thin as possible, are -round and shallow, and, in fact, are the same, or -nearly the same, which the natives have in general -use for cooking their rice. A row of these are -built into brick work and chunam, having a flue -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>constructed below them, with the grating, or -rather fire-place, at one end, and the chimney, or, -at least, some hole to allow the smoke to escape, at -the other. A chimney is a secondary consideration -with the Chinese, and in many instances which came -under my observation, the smoke, after passing -below the drying-pans, was allowed to escape, -as it best could, through the doors and roofs -of the houses, which, indeed, in China, is no difficult -matter.</p> - -<p>When the pans are first fixed, the brick-work -and chunam are smoothed off very neatly round -their edges and carried up a little higher, particularly -at the back of the pans, at the same time -widening gradually. When complete, the whole has -the appearance of a row of large high-backed -basins, each being three or four times larger than -the shallow iron pan which is placed at its bottom, -immediately over the flue. When the fire is applied, -the upper part of these basins, which is formed -of chunam, gets heated as well as the iron pan, -though in a less degree. The drying pans, thus -formed, being low in front, and rising very gradually -at the sides and back, the person, whose duty -it is to attend to the drying of the leaves, can -readily manage them, and scatter them about over -the back of the basin. The accompanying sketch, -which was made on the spot, will render this description -more clear.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill09"></a> -<img src="images/ill09.jpg" width="450" height="506" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Furnaces and Drying Pans.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The leaves having been brought in from the -hills are placed in the cottage or drying-house. It -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>is now the duty of one individual to light the little -fire at the mouth of the flue, and to regulate it as -nicely as possible. The pans become hot very -soon after the warm air has begun to circulate in -the flue beneath them. A quantity of leaves, from a -sieve or basket, are now thrown into the pans, and -turned over, shaken up, and kept in motion by -men and women stationed there for this purpose. -The leaves are immediately affected by the heat. -They begin to crack, and become quite moist with -the vapour or sap which they give out on the -application of the heat. This part of the process -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>lasts about five minutes, in which time the leaves -lose their crispness, and become soft and pliable. -They are then taken out of the pans and thrown -upon a table, the upper part of which is made of -split pieces of bamboo as represented in the -annexed sketch. Three or four persons now surround -the table, and the heap of tea leaves is -divided into as many parcels, each individual -taking as many as he can hold in his hands, and -the rolling process commences. I cannot give a -better idea of this operation than by comparing it -to a baker working and rolling his dough. Both -hands are used in the very same way; the object -being to express the sap and moisture, and at the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>same time to twist the leaves. Two or three times -during the operation the little bundles of rolled -leaves are held up and shaken out upon the table, -and are then again taken up and pressed and -rolled as before. This part of the process also -lasts about five minutes, during which time a -large portion of green juice has been expressed, -and may be seen finding its way down between the -interstices of the bamboos. The leaves being now -pressed, twisted, and curled, do not occupy a -quarter of the space which they did before the -operation.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill10"></a> -<img src="images/ill10.jpg" width="450" height="346" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">The Rolling Process.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>When the rolling process is completed the leaves -are removed from the table and shaken out for the -last time, thinly, upon a large sort of screen, also -made out of split pieces of bamboo, and are exposed -to the action of the air. The best days for this -purpose are those which are dry and cloudy, with -very little sun. The object being to expel the -moisture in the most gentle manner, and, at the -same time, to allow the leaves to remain as soft -and pliable as possible. When the sun is clear and -powerful the moisture evaporates too rapidly, and -the leaves are left crisp, coarse, and not in a proper -state to undergo the remaining part of the process. -There is no stated time for this exposure, as much -depends upon the nature of the weather and the -convenience of the work-people; sometimes I have -seen them go on with the remaining part of the -operation without at all exposing the leaves to -the air.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>Having in this manner got rid of a certain part -of the superfluous moisture, the leaves, which are -now soft and pliant, are again thrown into the -drying-pans, and the second heating commences. -Again one individual takes his post at the furnace, -and keeps up a slow and steady fire. Others -resume their places at the different drying-pans—one -at each—and commence stirring and throwing -up the leaves, so that they may all have an equal -share of the fire, and none get scorched or burned. -The process of drying thus goes on slowly and -regularly. This part of the operation soon becomes -more easy, for the leaves, as they part with their -moisture, twist and curl, and consequently take up -much less room than they do at first, and mix together -more readily. The tea leaves being now rather -too hot for the hand, a small and neat brush, made -of bamboo, is used instead of the fingers for stirring -them up from the bottom of the pan. By this means -the leaves are scattered about on the smooth -chunam-work, which forms the back of the drying-pan, -and, as they roll down on this heated inclined -plane they dry slowly, and twist at the same time. -During this operation the men and women who are -employed never leave their respective stations, -one keeps slowly feeding the fire, and the others -continually stir the leaves. No very exact degree -of temperature is attempted to be kept up, for -they do not use the thermometer, but a slow and -steady fire is quite sufficient; that is, the pan is -made and kept so hot, that I could not place my -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>hand upon it for a second of time. In order to -get a correct idea of the time required to complete -this second part of the process, I referred to my -watch on different occasions, and at different tea -farms, and always found that it occupied about an -hour; that is, from the time the leaves were put -into the pan after exposure to the air, until they -were perfectly dry.</p> - -<p>When the operation of drying is going on -largely, some of the pans in the range are used for -finishing the process, while others, and the hottest -ones, are heating and moistening the leaves before -they are squeezed and rolled. Thus a considerable -number of hands can be employed at once, and the -work goes on rapidly without loss of time or heat, -the latter of which is of some importance in a -country so ill provided with fuel.</p> - -<p>The tea prepared in the manner which I have -just described is greenish in colour, and of a most -excellent quality. It is called by the Chinese in -the province of Chekiang, <i>Tsaou-tsing</i>, or the tea -which is <i>dried in the pan</i>, to distinguish it from -the <i>Hong-tsing</i>, or that kind which is dried in flat -bamboo baskets over a slow fire of charcoal.</p> - -<p>This latter kind—the <i>Hong-tsing</i>,—is prepared -in the following manner:—The first process, up -to the period of rolling and exposure to the air, -is exactly the same as that which I have just -described, but instead of being put into the drying-pan -for the second heating like the <i>Tsaou-tsing</i>, the -<i>Hong-tsing</i> is shaken out into flat baskets, which -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>are placed over tubs containing charcoal and ashes. -The charcoal, when ignited, burns slowly and -sends out a mild and gentle heat. Indeed, the only -difference between the two teas consists in the -mode of firing, the latter being dried less and -more slowly than the former. The <i>Hong-tsing</i> is -not so green in colour as the <i>Tsaou-tsing</i>, and I -believe has rarely been exported.</p> - -<p>After the drying is completed the tea is picked, -sifted, divided into different kinds and qualities, -and prepared for packing. This is a part of the -operation which requires great care, more especially -when the tea is intended for the foreign market, as -the value of the sample depends much upon the -"smallness and evenness" of the leaf, as well as -upon its other good qualities. In those districts -where the teas are manufactured solely for exportation, -the natives are very particular in the -rolling process, and hence the teas from these districts -are better divided and more <i>even</i>—although -I should doubt their being really better in quality—than -they are in the eastern parts of the province -of Chekiang. When they have been duly assorted, -a man puts on a pair of clean cloth or straw shoes, -and treads the tea firmly into baskets or boxes, -and the operation is considered complete, in so far -as the grower is concerned.</p> - -<p>I have stated that the plants grown in the district -of Chekiang produce green teas, but it must -not be supposed that they are the <i>green</i> teas which -are exported to England. The leaf has a much -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>more natural colour, and has little or none of what -we call the "beautiful bloom" upon it, which is -so much admired in Europe and America. There -is now no doubt that all these "blooming" green -teas, which are manufactured at Canton, are dyed -with prussian blue and gypsum, to suit the taste -of the foreign "barbarians:" indeed, the process -may be seen any day, during the season, by those -who will give themselves the trouble to seek after -it. It is very likely that the same ingredients are -also used in dying the northern green teas for the -foreign market; of this, however, I am not quite -certain. There is a vegetable dye obtained from -<i>Isatis indigotica</i> much used in the northern districts, -and called <i>Tein-ching</i>, and it is not unlikely that it -may be the substance which is employed.</p> - -<p>The Chinese never use these dyed teas themselves, -and I certainly think their taste in this respect is -more correct than ours. It is not to be supposed -that the dye used can produce any very bad effects -upon the consumer, for, had this been the case, it -would have been discovered before now; but if entirely -harmless or inert, its being so must be ascribed -to the very small quantity which is employed in -the manufacture.</p> - -<p>When the teas are ready for sale, the large tea -merchants or their servants come out from the principal -towns of the district, and take up their quarters -in all the little inns or eating houses, which are -very numerous in every part of the country. They -also bring coolies loaded with the copper coin of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span>the country, with which they pay for their purchases. -As soon as the merchants are known to -have arrived in the district, the tea growers bring -their produce for inspection and sale. These little -farmers or their labourers may now be seen hastening -along the different roads, each with two baskets -or chests slung across his shoulder on his bamboo -pole. When they arrive at the merchant's abiding -place the baskets are opened before him, and the -quality of the tea inspected. If he is pleased with -its appearance and smell, and the parties agree as -to the price, the tea is weighed, the money paid -down, and the grower gets his strings of copper -money slung over his shoulder, and returns to his -farm. But should the price offered appear too low, -the baskets are immediately shouldered with the -greatest apparent independence, and carried away -to some opposition merchant. It, however, sometimes -happens that a merchant makes a contract -with some of the tea growers before the season commences, -in which case the price is arranged in the -usual way, and generally a part paid in advance. -This, I understand, is frequently the case at Canton -when a foreign resident wishes to secure any particular -kind of tea.</p> - -<p>After the teas are bought up in the district -where they are grown, they are conveyed to the -most convenient town, where they are assorted and -properly packed for the European and American -markets. Such is the system of green tea culture -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>and manufacture which came under my own observation -in the province of Chekiang.</p> - -<p><i>The black tea districts</i> of Fokien, which I visited, -are managed in the same way as those of Chekiang.</p> - -<p>I have already said that the species of plant which -produces the black teas near Foo-chow is the very -same as that found in the green tea districts of the -north. Being further south, and of course in a -hotter climate, the tea plant of Fokien is generally -grown at a high elevation amongst the hills. At -the risk of some little repetition I will insert an -account of my visit to the tea hills of Fokien.</p> - -<p>Every cottager, or small farmer, has two or three -patches of tea shrubs growing on the hill sides, -which are generally planted and kept in order by -the members of his own family. When the gathering -season arrives, the cottage doors are locked, and -all proceed to the hills with their baskets and commence -plucking the leaves. This business, of -course, only goes on during fine days when the -leaves are dry.</p> - -<p>The first gathering takes place just when the -leaf-buds begin to unfold themselves in early -spring. This tea is scarce and of a very superior -quality, being, in fact, the same, or nearly the -same, as that which is made from the young leaves -in the green-tea district. The second gathering -produces the principal crop of the season; the -third crop is coarse and inferior.</p> - -<p>When the leaves are brought home from the -hills, they are first of all emptied out into large -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>flat bamboo sieves, and, providing the day is not -too bright, are exposed in the open air to dry off -any superfluous moisture. When this moisture has -evaporated, convenient portions of the leaves are -brought in and thrown into a round flat iron pan, -such as the Chinese use for boiling their rice, and -are exposed to the heat of a gentle fire which is -lighted below them. As soon as this heat reaches -them, they give out a large quantity of moisture -with a crackling noise, and they soon become soft -and pliant. The person who attends to them stirs -them about with his hands, and in about five minutes -takes them out and puts in a fresh supply. -The heated leaves are emptied out on a large round -and flat bamboo sieve, which is placed upon a -table at a convenient height from the ground, and -the process of rolling commences. Three or four -persons take a portion of the heated leaves and -begin to squeeze and roll them in the manner -which I have already described. This goes on for -a minute or two, when each person takes his portion -and examines the effects which have already -been produced; it is then shaken well out upon -the table, after which it is gathered up and the -operation of rolling and squeezing goes on as before. -This is repeated three or four times, and -then the whole is shaken well out, on another large -flat bamboo sieve, in such a manner as to spread it -thinly upon it.</p> - -<p>Up to this stage of the process all the leaves -have been subjected to the same treatment. But the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>tea in this district is now divided into two classes, -each of which is treated in a peculiar manner. -They are called, in the language of the district, -<i>Luk-cha</i> and <i>Hong-cha</i>. The former seems to be a -kind of mixture of black and green, and I should -imagine it is only made for the use of the natives -themselves; the latter is our common black tea.</p> - -<p><i>The Luk-cha</i> is prepared in the following manner:—The -leaves, after being rolled and squeezed, -are shaken out thinly and exposed to the air to -dry. Great care is taken not to expose them in -this state to much bright sunshine, and hence a -fine dry day when the sun is partially obscured by -thin clouds is always preferred for this part of the -operation. After being exposed for an hour or -two, or even longer, as the case may be, for this -depends upon a variety of circumstances, such as -the dryness of the air, or the convenience of the -workpeople, they are brought within doors, and -the drying process commences. The flat rice -pan, in which they were first heated, is so constructed, -that it can be taken out at the pleasure -of the cottager. It is now removed, and a bamboo -sieve, exactly the same size, is put into its place, -and filled with the leaves. A very slow and steady -fire of wood or charcoal is now kept up, and the -remains of the moisture in the leaves is thus -gradually and slowly evaporated. After a few -minutes the sieve is lifted out and placed in one of -a larger size with a closer bottom. The leaves are -then well shaken up and turned over, and any of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span>the smaller tea which falls through the open sieve, -during the operation, is thus collected in the under -one and carefully saved. Both sieves are now -placed over the flue, and the leaves carefully -watched and turned frequently, for about an hour, -when the tea is considered properly fired. Sometimes, -if the day is fine, it is exposed a little while -to the sun before it is packed away.</p> - -<p><i>The Hong-cha</i>, or our common black tea, is prepared -rather differently. In the first place the -natives seem more particular in the rolling process, -especially when it is for the foreign market, -although the operation is performed much in the -same way. After heating and rolling, the leaves -are shaken out on large screens, and subjected to -the action of the open air; the natives in this, as -in all other cases, taking care not to expose them -to a bright and burning sun. This is a most important -part of the manufacture. The black tea is -left in this state sometimes for two or three days -before it is fired, which, doubtless, is one cause -why the colour of this tea is so much darker than -those kinds which are prepared from the same -plants and quickly dried.</p> - -<p>After being exposed for a sufficient length of -time to the action of the air, the leaves are taken -in for the purpose of firing. Instead, however, of -being heated in baskets, like the other kind, this is -thrown at once into the pan. An old and experienced -person takes his place at the furnace, -and keeps up a slow and steady fire, while it is the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span>duty of the younger branches of the family to keep -the leaves in the pan in continual motion and prevent -them from being burned. This is done by -means of little hand-brushes made from the prolific -bamboo, the outer flinty part being split for -this purpose. The tea prepared in this manner -soon becomes of a dark colour, and is quite different -in appearance from the <i>Luk-cha</i>. After it -has been sufficiently dried, it has, of course, to -undergo the other operations of sifting, picking, -and dividing, before it is fit to be packed up for -the foreign market.</p> - -<p>From hence it appears, that the black tea is -rendered darker in colour, first by being longer -exposed to the air in a soft and moist state; and -secondly, by being subjected to a greater degree of -fire-heat. With regard to the green teas, there -can be no doubt that those used by the Chinese -themselves are of the genuine colour which they -acquire in the drying; and that those "blooming" -kinds, prepared to suit our depraved tastes, are, -one and all, dyed. Moreover, in conclusion, I may -repeat, what I have already proved, that the black -and green teas of the north are produced from the -same species, the <i>Thea viridis</i>, and that the true -Canton teas are manufactured from the leaves of -the <i>Thea Bohea</i>. It therefore follows that the black -teas can be, and, in fact, are made from both -species; and with regard to the green, as it is the -result of a dye, the Chinese, I doubt not, could -substitute for that colour either red or yellow, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>should our tastes change and lead us to prefer more -glaring tints!</p> - -<p>There are several different kinds of scented -flowers, which are grown in particular districts, -for the purpose of mixing with and perfuming the -tea. Amongst these I may mention the following:—<i>Olea -fragrans, Chloranthus inconspicuus, Aglaia -odorata</i>, &c. I believe these flowers are dried -by themselves, and afterwards mixed with the -teas.*</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>* In order to give the reader some idea of the different sorts -of teas manufactured for the European and American markets, -I cannot do better than quote some excellent remarks on this -subject, by Sir John Francis Davis, in his work, "The Chinese:"—<a name="FNanchor_1_10" id="FNanchor_1_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_10" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> - -<p>"As tea has always held so principal a place in our intercourse -with China, it requires some particular consideration as -an article of commerce. We have seen before, that the fineness -and dearness of tea are determined by the tenderness and -smallness of the leaf when picked. The various descriptions of -the Black diminish in quality and value as they are gathered -later in the season, until they reach the lowest kind, called by -us Bohea, and by the Chinese (<i>Ta-cha</i>), 'large tea' on account -of the maturity and size of the leaves. The early leaf-buds -in spring, being covered with a white silky down, are -gathered to make Pekoe, which is a corruption of the Canton -name <i>Pak-ho</i>, 'white down.' A few days' longer growth -produce what is here styled 'black-leaved pekoe.' The more -fleshy and matured leaves constitute Souchong; as they grow -larger and coarser they form Congou; and the last and latest -picking is Bohea. The tea-farmers, who are small proprietors -or cultivators, give the tea a rough preparation, and then take -it to the contractors, whose business it is to adapt its farther -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>preparation to the existing nature of the demand. The different -kinds of tea may be considered in the ascending scale of -their value.</p> - -<p>"1. Bohea, which in England is the name of a <i>quality</i>, has -been already stated to be, in China, the name of a district -where various kinds of black tea are produced. The coarse -leaf brought under that name to this country is distinguished -by containing a larger proportion of the woody fibre than other -teas; its infusion is of a darker colour, and as it has been more -subjected to the action of fire, it keeps a longer time without -becoming musty than the finer sorts. Two kinds of Bohea are -brought from China: the lowest of these is manufactured on -the spot, and therefore called 'Canton Bohea,' being a mixture -of refuse Congou with a coarse tea called Woping, the growth -of the province. The better kind of Bohea comes from the -district of that name in Fokien, and, having been of late esteemed -equally with the lower Congou teas, has been packed in -the same square chests, while the old Bohea package is of an -oblong shape.</p> - -<p>"2. Congou, the next higher kind, is named from a corruption -of the Chinese <i>Koong foo</i>, 'labour or assiduity.' It formed -for many years the bulk of the East India Company's cargoes; -but the quality gradually fell off, in consequence of the partial -abandonment of the old system of annual contracts, by which -the Chinese merchants were assured of a remunerating price -for the better sorts. The consumption of Bohea in this country -has of late years increased, to the diminution of Congou, and -the standard of the latter has been considerably lowered. A -particular variety, called <i>Campoi</i>, is so called from a corruption -of the original name <i>Kien-peoy</i>, 'selection—choice;' but it -has ceased to be prized in this country, from the absence of -strength—a characteristic which is stated to be generally -esteemed beyond delicacy of flavour.</p> - -<p>"3. Souchong (<i>Seaou-choong</i>, 'small, or scarce sort') is the -finest of the stronger black teas, with a leaf that is generally -entire and curly, but more young than in the coarser kinds. -What is called 'Padre Souchong' is packed in separate paper -bundles, of about half a pound each, and is so fine as to be used -almost exclusively for presents. The probability is that its use -in that way by the Catholic missionaries first gave rise to the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>name. The finest kinds of Souchong are sometimes scented -with the flowers of the <i>Chloranthus inconspicuus</i>, and <i>Gardenia -florida</i>; and they cannot be obtained, even among the Chinese, -except at dear prices. A highly-crisped and curled leaf called -<i>Sonchi</i>, has lately grown into disrepute and been much disused, -in consequence of being often found to contain a ferruginous -dust, which was probably not intended as a fraud, but arose -from the nature of the ground, where the tea had been carelessly -and dirtily packed.</p> - -<p>"4. Pekoe being composed mainly of the young spring-buds, -the gathering of these must, of course, be injurious in some -degree to the future produce of the shrub, and this description -of tea is accordingly both dear and small in quantity. With a -view to preserving the fineness of flavour, the application of -heat is very limited in drying the leaves, and hence it is, that -Pekoe is more liable to injury from keeping than any other sort -of tea. There is a species of Pekoe made in the Green-tea -country from the young buds, in like manner with the black -kind; but it is so little fired that the least damp spoils it; and -for this reason, as well as on account of its scarcity and high -price, the Hyson-pekoe as some call it, has never been brought -to England. The mandarins send it in very small canisters -to each other, or to their friends, as presents, under the name -of <i>Loong-tsing</i>, which is probably the name of the district -where the tea is made.</p> - -<p>"Green teas may generally be divided into five denominations, -which are—1. Twankey; 2. Hyson-skin; 3. Hyson; 4. Gunpowder; -5. Young Hyson. Twankay tea has always formed -the bulk of the green teas imported into this country, being -used by the retailers to mix with the finer kinds. The leaf is -older, and not so much twisted and rolled as in the dearer descriptions: -there is altogether less care and trouble bestowed -on its preparation. It is, in fact, the Bohea of green teas; and -the quantity of it brought to England has fully equalled three-fourths -of the whole importation of green. 'Hyson-skin' is -so named from the original Chinese term, in which connection -the skin means the <i>refuse</i>, or inferior portion of anything; in -allusion, perhaps, to the hide of an animal, or the rind of fruit. -In preparing the fine tea called Hyson, all those leaves that are -of a coarser, yellower, and less twisted or rolled appearance, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>are set apart and sold as the refuse or 'skin-tea,' at a ranch -inferior price. The whole quantity, therefore, depends on, and -bears a proportion to, the whole quantity of Hyson manufactured, -but seldom exceeds two or three thousand chests in -all.</p> - -<p>"The word Hyson is corrupted from the Chinese name, which -signifies 'flourishing spring,' this fine sort of tea being of -course gathered in the early part of the season. Every separate -leaf is twisted and rolled by hand, and it is on account of -the extreme care and labour required in its preparation, that -the best Hyson tea is so difficult to procure, and so expensive. -By way of keeping up its quality, the East India Company used -to give a premium for the two best lots annually presented to -them for selection; and the tea-merchants were stimulated to -exertion, as much by the credit of the thing, as by the actual -gain in price. Gunpowder, as it is called, is nothing but a -more carefully picked Hyson, consisting of the best rolled and -roundest leaves, which give it that <i>granular</i> appearance whence -it derives its name. For a similar reason, the Chinese call it -<i>Choocha</i>, 'pearl-tea.' Young Hyson, until it was spoiled by -the large demand of the Americans, was a genuine, delicate -young leaf, called in the original language <i>Yu-tsien</i>, 'before -the rains,' because gathered in the early spring. As it could -not be fairly produced in any large quantities, the call for it on -the part of the Americans was answered by cutting up and -sifting <i>other</i> green tea through sieves of a certain size; and, as -the Company's inspectors detected the imposture, it formed no -portion of their London importations. But the abuse became -still worse of late (as we shall presently see), for the coarsest -<i>black</i> tea-leaves have been cut up, and then <i>coloured</i> with a -preparation resembling the hue of green teas.</p> - -<p>"The remission of the tea duties in the United States occasioned, -in the years 1832 and 1833, a demand for green teas at -Canton which could not be supplied by the arrivals from the -provinces. The Americans, however, were obliged to sail with -cargoes of green teas within the favourable season; they were -determined to have these teas; and the Chinese were determined -they should be supplied. Certain rumours being afloat -concerning the manufacture of green tea from old black leaves, -the writer of this became curious to ascertain the truth, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>with some difficulty persuaded a Hong merchant to conduct -him, accompanied by one of the inspectors, to the place where -the operation was carried on. Upon reaching the opposite side -of the river, and entering one of these laboratories of factitious -Hyson, the parties were witnesses to a strange scene.</p> - -<p>"In the first place, large quantities of black tea, which had -been damaged in consequence of the floods of the previous -autumn, were drying in baskets with sieve bottoms, placed over -pans of charcoal. The dried leaves were then transferred in -portions of a few pounds each to a great number of cast-iron -pans, imbedded in chunam or mortar, over furnaces. At each -pan stood a workman stirring the tea rapidly round with his -hand, having previously added a small quantity of <i>turmeric</i> in -powder, which of course gave the leaves a yellowish or orange -tinge; but they were still to be made green. For this purpose -some lumps of a fine blue were produced, together with a white -substance in powder, which from the names given to them by -the workmen, as well as their appearance, were known at once -to be <i>prussian blue</i> and <i>gypsum</i>.<a name="FNanchor_2_11" id="FNanchor_2_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_11" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> These were triturated finely -together with a small pestle, in such proportion as reduced the -dark colour of the blue to a light shade; and a quantity equal -to a small tea-spoonful of the powder being added to the yellowish -leaves, these were stirred as before over the fire, until -the tea had taken the fine bloom colour of Hyson, with very -much the <i>same scent</i>. To prevent all possibility of error regarding -the substances employed, samples of them, together -with specimens of the leaves in each stage of the process were -carried away from the place.</p> - -<p>"The tea was then handed in small quantities, on broad -shallow baskets, to a number of women and children, who carefully -picked out the stalks, and coarse or uncurled leaves; and, -when this had been done, it was passed in succession through -sieves of different degrees of fineness. The first sifting produced -what was sold as Hyson-skin, and the last bore the name -of Young Hyson. As the party did not see the intermediate -step between the picking and sifting, there is reason to believe -that the size of the leaves was first reduced by chopping or -cutting with shears. If the tea has not highly deleterious qualities, -it can only be in consequence of the colouring matter -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>existing in a small proportion to the leaf<a name="FNanchor_3_12" id="FNanchor_3_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_12" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>; and the Chinese -seemed quite conscious of the real character of the occupation -in which they were engaged; for, on attempting to enter several -other places where the same process was going on, the doors -were speedily closed upon the party. Indeed, had it not been -for the influence of the Hongist who conducted them, there -would have been little chance of their seeing as much as they -did."</p></blockquote> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_10" id="Footnote_1_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_10"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Charles Knight and Co., Ludgate Street, 1840.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_11" id="Footnote_2_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_11"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Prussiate of iron, and sulphate of lime.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_12" id="Footnote_3_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_12"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The turmeric and gypsum are perfectly innocuous; but -the prussian blue, being a combination of prussic acid with iron, -is a poison.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XII.</h3> - -<p>CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO.—STORM IN A SMALL BOAT.—NEARLY -UPSET.—KIN-TANG, OR SILVER ISLAND.—ITS INHABITANTS.—THEIR -SURPRISE ON SEEING A FOREIGNER.—YANG-TSE-KIANG -RIVER.—ITS NUMEROUS SAND BANKS.—OUR -SCHOONER AGROUND.—NOVEL METHOD OF GETTING ASSISTANCE -FROM THE CHINESE.—VILLAGE OF WOO-SUNG.—OPIUM -STATION.—REMARKS ON THE OPIUM TRADE.—ITS -EFFECTS UPON THE CHINESE.</p> - -<p class="p2">In the summer of 1844 I was frequently engaged -in exploring the islands of the Chusan Archipelago, -more particularly that portion which lies between -Chusan and the opposite shores of the main-land. -It was of course necessary for this purpose to employ -Chinese boats, which are not very trustworthy. -The distance from Chusan to the town of Chinhae, -at the mouth of the Ning-po river, is about thirty -miles. A sail across a sea such as this is generally -pleasant enough, because the water, which is -hemmed in on all sides, is frequently as smooth as -a mill-pond. Sometimes, however, the wind comes -down in gusts from the openings amongst the hills, -and then the little China boats are all laid nearly -upon their beam-ends before the sail can be taken in. -Once, in particular, I had a narrow escape from a -watery grave amongst these islands. I had engaged -a boat to take me across from the city of Ning-po -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>to Chusan; and, as I was in a hurry at the time, I -was anxious to reach my destination as soon as -possible. The wind blew rather fresh as we were -going down the Ning-po river, and when we reached -the town of Chinhae, at its mouth, evening had set -in, and the sky had a threatening and stormy appearance. -The boatmen pointed this out to me, -and were anxious to remain where we were until -daylight. As I was afraid of being too late for a -passage in an English vessel, which was then at -anchor in the bay of Chusan, I would not consent -to this prudent proposal, but insisted that they -should proceed across without further delay. After -exhausting all their arguments, they at length -unwillingly got up the anchor, and we proceeded -on our voyage. The land and hills on our way -from Ning-po to the mouth of the river had sheltered -us, and prevented me from feeling the full force of -the wind; but no sooner had we passed the forts, -and reached the open sea, than I found I had done -a very foolish thing in urging the boatmen to take -me across in such a night, and I would gladly -have gone back had it been prudent or indeed possible -to have done so. It was now, however, too -late, for with a strong spring tide and a heavy -head sea, it was impossible to get back again to -Chinhae, and we therefore kept on in the direction -of Chusan. "Are you not carrying too much sail in -such a wind as this, and with such a heavy rolling -sea?" said I to the captain of the boat, an old weather-beaten -man from the province of Fokien. "No -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>fear, no fear," he replied in his broken Chusan -English, "my can manage he." "But I think there -is fear, Fokei," I replied; and the words were scarcely -said, when a tremendous gust came down upon us, -and at the same moment a heavy sea struck the -side of our boat, and laid her fairly on her beam-ends. -In an instant the boat filled in all her -divisions from bow to stern. "Lower the sail, lower -the sail, quick, quick," cried the helmsman, "or we -shall all go to the bottom." Several of the crew flew -to the sail, which fortunately came down readily, -and our little craft righted once more, but rolled and -plunged very heavily in consequence of the great -quantity of water in her hold, and seemed as if she -would go down at every plunge, and leave us exposed -to the fury of the waves. We again got -a few feet of sail hoisted, and kept her away -before the wind. It was now dark, not a star was -to be seen in the heavens, the mountains, although -not distinctly visible, yet loomed through the gloom, -and the only objects clearly distinguished were some -lights flickering on the distant shore. The crew -now surrounded the helmsman, and besought him -to try and get back to Chinhae, but I was sailor -enough to know that if we attempted to put the -helm down and bring the boat round, in all probability -we should ship another sea, and had we done -so we must have gone down. I immediately went -and stood by the helmsman, and kept the crew from -interfering, telling him to keep on our course and -try to get under the lee of some island as soon as -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>possible. The men now began to throw off their -clothes as a last resource, and so completely lost -all their self-possession that no remonstrances could -induce them to attend to the boat and get some of -the water out of her. The captain or helmsman, -however, did his duty well, and to his firmness and -knowledge we, doubtless, owed our lives. Providentially -the wind lulled for a short time, which -enabled us to hoist more sail; and soon afterwards -we got to leeward of one of the numerous small -islands which are scattered over this part of the -coast. As soon as we had anchored all hands began -baling the water out of the boat. We were in a -most pitiful condition, all our clothes and beds -being completely soaked with seawater; some plants, -but luckily only duplicates, which I had with me, -were, of course, totally destroyed; but our hearts -were light, and we were thankful that our lives had -been saved. Before daylight the boat was all right -again, and as the weather had moderated, we were -able to proceed on our course to Chusan.</p> - -<p>Kintang, or Silver Island, as it is called by -the English, is a large island in this archipelago. -Although near Chusan, it was seldom visited by -any of the English there; but its hills and valleys -were very interesting in a botanical point of view, -and on that account I was in the habit of anchoring -my little boat in some of its numerous bays, -and exploring its botanical productions. The surprise -of the simple inhabitants, many of whom had -never left the island in their lives, was often very -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span>great when I came down unexpectedly upon their -little villages. The reader will easily credit this, -if he will only picture to himself the surprise and -astonishment with which a Chinese would be regarded -were he to appear suddenly in some secluded -village in the highlands of Scotland or Wales, where -no such phenomenon had ever been seen before. -I remember, on one occasion, that having toiled up -to the top of one of the beautiful hills on the island -of Kintang, I observed on the other side of the -hill, a few yards below me, a Chinese youth engaged -in cutting the long grass and bushes for fire-wood. -As he was employed he did not observe me, and -I approached the place where he was at work, and -standing upon a rock a few feet above him, made -some noise to attract his attention. He looked up, -and never shall I forget the look he gave me. Had -I been a being from another world he could not -have been more astonished; indeed, I suppose he -thought that I had fallen from the clouds, or come -out from the bowels of the hills. For a second or -two he stood in silent amazement, seemingly completely -paralysed, and then throwing his grass-knife -away, fled down the hill over rocks and stones with -a rapidity hardly credible, nor did he ever look -behind, until he had crossed the narrow valley, and -reached the village on the opposite side. The news -was soon communicated to the villagers, who rushed -out of their houses and assembled in great numbers -in front of their buildings. I walked slowly and -quietly down towards them, and soon removed all -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>their fears. My young friend the grass cutter was -very shy at first, but we parted excellent friends.</p> - -<p>The port of Shanghae is situated about 80 or -100 miles to the north-west of Chusan, the latter -being in lat. 30° north, and the former in 31° 20'. -On leaving the Chusan group of Islands, and sailing -to the northward in the direction of Shanghae we -pass the Bay of Hangchow on the left, and enter the -mouth of the noble Yang-tse-kiang, the "child of -the Ocean," as its name implies. The country, which, -up to this degree of latitude from the south, is very -mountainous, now changes, and becomes perfectly -level. The shores of the river are, in many places, -lower than the river itself, which is kept within -its bounds by large and strong embankments. -The mountainous scenery disappears entirely, and -even from the top of the highest mast of a ship, no -hill is seen to bound the distant horizon—all the -view is a vast level plain. This is what is called -the valley of the Yang-tse-kiang, and is the great -northern Nanking cotton district. The land is a -deep rich loam, and is without doubt the finest in -China, if not in the world.</p> - -<p>At the entrance of the river, the navigation is -rather difficult, particularly in thick weather, -owing partly to the numerous sand banks, which -are all covered at high water, and partly to the -difficulty of getting prominent land-marks. Since -the opening of the trade in 1843 several ships have -got entangled amongst these banks, and have been -totally wrecked. When I first visited the Yang-tse-kiang, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>it was quite a common occurrence for -vessels to get aground at low water, but as the -greater part of them were small opium clippers, -commanded by men who knew the region well, -they generally got easily off again when the tide -flowed. One evening in April, we were sailing up -this river with a fair light breeze, which was -sending us on at the rate of six or seven miles -an hour. The man at the lead was singing out -his soundings; and as it was "and a half three," -and "by the mark three," the captain concluded -that we were in the right channel, and went below -for a minute or two. The leadsman was still -singing out three fathoms, when, all at once, we felt -the bottom of the vessel touch the ground, and in -two seconds she was hard and fast in the mud. -The tide was ebbing rapidly at the time, and as -one side of the schooner was in deeper water, we -were obliged to get out all the spare planking we -had to prop the vessel and prevent her from falling -over. The next question was, how we were to get -off when the tide rose. In the course of the afternoon, -we had observed a number of junks astern of -us, coming up the river and bound for Shanghae. -Some of these were now within a quarter of a mile, -and had dropt their anchors until the commencement -of the flood tide. After some consultation, -the captain came to the determination of boarding -one of them, and getting the people to shift their -anchoring ground and come a little nearer the -schooner, so that a rope might be passed from the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>one to the other, and our vessel hauled off when -the tide was sufficiently high to float her. As I -was able to speak a little Chinese, I was asked to go -in the boat and explain what our object was, and -likewise to tell them that they should be well paid -for their trouble. The boat's crew armed themselves -with cutlasses, and, in order to render the -business more imposing, the captain put on an old -uniform which had formerly belonged to a naval -officer, and with a cocked hat on his head and a -sword dangling at his side took his seat in the boat. -The night was dark but fine, and we could just discern -the masts of the nearest junk. In a few minutes -we were alongside, and were challenged by -the man who had the watch upon deck, and who at -the same moment, seeing we were foreigners, ran to -give the alarm, exclaiming that the <i>Hong-mou-jins</i>, -or "red-haired men," were upon them. Without -further parley we sprang into the junk, and when -we looked round we found her decks deserted—the -watch and every body else having hid themselves -below. The captain directed our men to go down -the hatchways and try to get the Chinese upon -deck, but he gave them strict orders to use them -kindly. It was not a little amusing to see our tars -going about this part of the business, which they did -with right good will and glee. They soon dragged -the Chinamen out of their hiding places, and, much -against their inclination, mustered them on deck. -I now explained to their captain that our intentions -were peaceful, but that our vessel was in very great -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>danger, and that it was absolutely necessary they -should get up their anchor immediately, and -come to our assistance. At the same time, I told -them that they should receive twenty dollars for -their trouble. They now held a consultation -amongst themselves, and at last came and informed -us that they would render the required assistance -on the following morning. This, however, would -not answer our purpose, and besides we knew -enough of the Chinese to be perfectly aware that -this "to-morrow" would never come, and was only -said to get rid of us altogether, and leave us to our -fate. We therefore told them that this arrangement -would not suit us, and again requested them -to get up their anchor. Another consultation was -held, and as it was quite evident to me that they -were procrastinating, and that we might go on in -this manner all night, I advised the master of our -schooner to set his own men to work to heave up -the Chinaman's anchor, and hoist her sail. The -sailors, who were getting rather impatient, gladly -obeyed these orders, and when the junk's crew saw -what was going on, they also gave their assistance, -so that in a few minutes we were under weigh. -Having gone as near the schooner as we considered -prudent, the anchor was dropped, and a strong -rope made fast to the two vessels in order to draw -ours off the mud when the tide rose high enough -to float her. This was accomplished during the -night, and we were safely anchored in three -fathoms of water. At daylight, however, we found -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>that our Chinese friends had made sail, and gone -away without waiting to claim the promised -reward.</p> - -<p>The small village of Woosung, where one of the -battles was fought during the last war, stands on -the banks of another river, commonly known as the -"Shanghae river" by Europeans, and at the point -where it falls into the Yang-tse-Kiang. This is -one of the principal stations in China for the -opium merchant vessels, and I believe latterly -more of the drug has been sold here than at all -the other stations put together.</p> - -<p>So much has been said about this trade and -opium smoking, that a few remarks upon the -subject will not be out of place here. It is well -known that the greater part of the opium which is -brought to the Chinese coast is grown and manufactured -in our East Indian possessions. Those -English or American merchants who deal largely -in this production employ very fast sailing vessels -for bringing it from India to China, and also keep -up what are called receiving ships in many of the -bays or harbours along the coast of China. These -receiving ships are regularly supplied by the fast-sailing -vessels which bring their cargoes from -India or Hong-kong. The Chinese smugglers come -out from the adjoining bays and towns, in small -boats, well manned and armed, in order to protect -their property, which is generally of great value. -Silver, in the form of South American dollars or -Sycee, is bartered for the opium at all those stations -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>on the coast, where no other trade is carried on; -at other places the foreign merchants often find it -advantageous to barter the opium in exchange for -raw silks and teas, which are the two chief exports -of the country.</p> - -<p>The statements which have been frequently -made in England, both as regards the smuggling -and the smoking of opium are very much exaggerated. -When I first went to China, I expected -to find those merchants who were engaged -in this trade little else than armed buccaneers, -indeed, if I do not mistake, they have been represented -as characters of this kind on the English -stage. Instead of this, the trade is conducted by -men of the highest respectability, possessed of -immense capital, and who are known and esteemed -as merchants of the first class in every part of the -civilised world. The trade in opium, although -contraband, is so unlike what is generally called -smuggling, that people at a distance are deceived -by the term. It may be quite true that its introduction -and use are prohibited by the Chinese -government, but that prohibition is merely an -empty sound, which, in fact, means nothing. The -whole, or at least the greater part, of the mandarins -use it, and it is not at all unlikely that his -Celestial Majesty himself makes one of the number -of its devotees. The truth is, the Chinese government, -whatever it may say, has no wish to put a -stop to its introduction. It is necessary, however, -to publish every now and then strong threatening -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span>edicts against it, which are only consigned to -oblivion in the pages of the Peking Gazette, and -have no effect whatever in restraining the Emperor's -loyal subjects. It is now the opinion of all -intelligent foreigners, and also of many of the more -enlightened amongst the Chinese themselves, that -the importation of opium ought to be legalised, and -that it should be admitted at a small duty, as, by -this means, much of the demoralising effects of smuggling -would be got rid of, and a considerable revenue -would flow into the coffers of the Chinese treasury.</p> - -<p>Many instances of the feeble kind of opposition -which the Chinese government employ to stop the -opium trade, occurred during my residence in the -country. Sometimes an admiral, renowned for his -valour, was sent with a number of war junks to a -particular station, where the opium ships were -anchored, for the purpose of compelling them to -leave the Chinese shores. Gongs were beat, guns -were fired, at a respectful distance, however, and -the junks came down with all that pomp and -parade which the Chinese know so well how to -assume, and which seem to form a principal part of -their warlike operations. In the meantime the -little opium vessels were laying quietly at anchor, -apparently paying but slight attention to all these -threatening demonstrations. Presently a message -was sent from the admiral, ordering them to get -up their anchors and stand out to sea, and never -more to dare to enter the waters of his celestial -majesty under the penalty of being completely annihilated.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>A summons like this in former days might have -had some weight, but now it had none; and the -only answer the messengers carried back was, "that -the foreign vessels were well armed, and that they -would not leave their anchorage." This was quite -sufficient to cool the courage of the admiral, who -was now in a dilemma; he durst not light the -"barbarians," and if he did not manage to get them -out of the way, his character for courage would -suffer when the affair was represented at head -quarters. He therefore altered his tone, and <i>requested</i> -the captains, as a great favour, to leave the -anchorage and move outside for a day or two only, -after which time they might return to their old -quarters. This was agreed to on the part of the -captains of the opium vessels, and on the following -morning they got under weigh and went out to -sea. The Chinese, who were on the look-out at -the time, made a great noise by beating gongs -and firing guns, and followed the opium ships -until they were fairly outside. The admiral now -sent up a report to his government to the effect -that he had fought a great battle with the "barbarians," -and had driven them away from the shores; -or very probably he said that he had blown some -of their vessels to pieces, and sunk the rest in the -depths of the sea. In the meantime, even before -the report was half-way to Peking, the opium -vessels had quietly taken up their old anchorage, -and things were going on in the usual way! Such -is a specimen of the way in which affairs are managed -in China.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span>The opium from Bengal, which consists of two -kinds—namely, <i>Patna</i> and <i>Benares</i>—is always of a -good quality and pure, but the Bombay <i>Malwa</i> is -now so much mixed up with other ingredients, -that the Chinese smuggler will not buy it until he -has had an opportunity of testing its quality. This -is done in the following manner:—having selected -the chest or number of chests which he wishes to -purchase, they are opened, and he takes out three -or four of the worst-looking cakes, cuts a small -piece from each, and dissolves them in a copper -ladle over a charcoal fire. When the opium is -melted, it is poured out into a coarse paper filter. -If it is not of the worst description, it readily passes -through the paper into a small basin, which is -placed under it. When it will not pass through -the filter, the Chinese call it <i>Man-ling</i>, by which -name they designate opium which is so bad, or so -mixed with extraneous ingredients, that it will not -dissolve in water or pass through the paper filter. -This description of the drug is, of course, only -bought at a very reduced price.</p> - -<p>When the mixture passes through the filter, the -paper is carefully examined, and if any sediment -remains, such as sand or rubbish, with which the -opium is frequently adulterated, it detracts considerably -from its value. This filtered mixture is -now put again into a clear copper pan, and boiled -slowly over the charcoal fire, until the whole of -the water is evaporated, and nothing remains but -pure opium. The drug is then poured out into a -small porcelain cup, and stirred round and examined -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span>with great care. At this stage of the process, -colour forms the principal test of its quality, -and as the smuggler stirs it round, and holds it up -to the light, he pronounces it to be "<i>tung-kow</i>" if -it is thick like jelly; "<i>pak-chat</i>," if it has a whitish -colour; "<i>hong-chat</i>," if it is red; and "<i>kong-see-pak</i>," -if it is opium of the first quality, or like that -sent round by the East India Company.</p> - -<p>Opium is prepared for smoking much in the -same manner as I have just described, and is kept -in small cups, which are made for the purpose. -The smoker lays his head upon a pillow, has a -lamp by his side, and with a kind of needle he lifts -a small portion of the opium to the candle; and -having ignited it, he puts it into the small aperture -of the bowl of the pipe. The candle is applied to -the bowl during the process of inhaling, and the -smoke is drawn into the lungs in the same manner -as an Indian or Chinese swallows tobacco. A -whiff or two is all that can be drawn from a single -pipe, and, therefore, those who are accustomed to -the use of the drug have frequently to renew the -dose.</p> - -<p>No one who has seen any thing of the habits of -the Chinese, will deny that the use of opium, particularly -when taken to excess, has a most pernicious -effect both upon the constitution and morals -of its victims. From my own experience, however, -I have no hesitation in saying that the number of -persons who use it to excess has been very much -exaggerated; it is quite true that a very large -quantity of the drug is yearly imported from -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>India, but then we must take into consideration -the vast extent of the Chinese empire, and its population -of 300,000,000 of people. I have, when travelling -in different parts of the country, often been -in company with opium smokers, and am consequently -able to speak with some confidence with -regard to their habits. I well remember the impressions -I had on this subject before I left England, -and my surprise when I was first in the company -of an opium smoker who was enjoying his favourite -stimulant. When the man lay down upon the -couch, and began to inhale the fumes of the opium, -I observed him attentively, expecting in a minute -or two to see him in his "third heaven of bliss;" -but no: after he had taken a few whiffs he quietly -resigned the pipe to one of his friends, and walked -away to his business. Several others of the party -did exactly the same. Since then I have often -seen the drug used, and I can assert that in the -great majority of cases it was not immoderately indulged -in. At the same time I am well aware that, -like the use of ardent spirits in our own country, it -is frequently carried to a most lamentable excess. -Lord Jocelyn, in his "Campaign in China," gives -the following account of its effects, which he witnessed -upon the Chinese at Singapore. "A few -days of this fearful luxury, when taken to excess, -will give a pallid and haggard look to the face, and -a few months, or even weeks, will change the -strong and healthy man into little better than an -idiot skeleton. The pain they suffer when deprived -of the drug after long habit, no language can -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>explain; and it is only when to a certain degree -under its influence that their faculties are alive. -In the houses devoted to their ruin, these infatuated -people may be seen at nine o'clock in the evening -in all the different stages; some entering half distracted -to feed the craving appetite they had been -obliged to subdue during the day; others laughing -and talking wildly under the effects of a first pipe; -whilst the couches around are filled with their -different occupants, who lie languid with an idiot -smile upon their countenance, too much under the -influence of the drug to care for passing events, and -fast merging to the wished-for consummation. The -last scene in this tragic play is generally a room in -the rear of the building, a species of dead-house, -where lie stretched those who have passed into the -state of bliss the opium smoker madly seeks—an -emblem of the long sleep to which he is blindly -hurrying."</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill11"></a> -<img src="images/ill11.jpg" width="450" height="275" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Opium Pipe.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XIII.</h3> - -<p>SHANGHAE IN 1844.—ITS GARDENS AND PLANTS.—START FOR -THE HILLS IN THE INTERIOR.—CANALS AND BRIDGES.—ADVENTURE -WITH MY PONY.—THE "TEIN-CHING," OR BLUE DYE, -FOUND.—HILLS AND THEIR VEGETATION DESCRIBED.—THE -SURPRISE OF THE NATIVES ON SEEING A FOREIGNER.—THEIR -CURIOSITY AND HONESTY!—PLANTS SENT TO ENGLAND.—ANOTHER -JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR.—SOME LARGE NORTHERN -CITIES NOTICED.—A MIDNIGHT VISIT FROM THIEVES.—THE -FAR-FAMED CITY OF SOO-CHOW-FOO VISITED.—A DESCRIPTION -OF IT.—NEW PLANTS FOUND.—CENTRAL POSITION OF SOO-CHOW -AS A PLACE OF TRADE.—BATHS FOR THE MILLION.—RETURN -TO SHANGHAE.</p> - -<p class="p2">I again visited Shanghae on the 18th of April, -1844, and spent two or three weeks there at -different times. My principal object was to see all -the plants in the different northern districts as they -came into flower, and it was therefore necessary -that I should stay as short a time as possible in -each place. I have mentioned that I purchased a -collection of <i>Tree Pæonies</i> during my first visit to -Shanghae in the winter of 1843, which were said -to be very splendid things, and entirely different in -colour from any plants of the kind which were -known in England. I had of course, at that time, -no opportunity of seeing their flowers, and was now, -therefore, particularly anxious to get some which -were in bloom, and had intended to send my old -friend back again to Soo-chow for another collection, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>stipulating, however, that the plants should this -time have blooms upon them. One morning, however, -as I was going out into the country, a short -distance from Shanghae, I was surprised at meeting -a garden labourer with a load of Moutans all in full -flower, which he was taking towards the city for -sale. The flowers were very large and fine, and the -colours were <i>dark purples, lilacs</i>, and <i>deep reds</i>, -kinds of which the very existence had been always -doubted in England, and which are never seen -even at Canton. Two English gentlemen who -were excellent Chinese scholars, being with me at -the time, we soon found out the name of the -Moutan district; and from the state of the roots in -the man's basket, I was quite certain that the plants -had not been more than an hour or two out of the -ground, and that consequently the place where they -were grown could not be more than six or eight -miles from Shanghae, a surmise which I afterwards -found to be perfectly correct. This was doubtless -the place where my nursery friend had procured his -plants in the previous autumn, and where he would -have gone again had I not been lucky enough to -find that I could easily go there myself. Indeed, I -afterwards discovered that there was no Moutan -country in the vicinity of Soo-chow, having met a -man from that place in the Shanghae district, -where he had come for the express purpose of -buying Tree Pæonies. I now went into the Moutan -district daily during the time the different plants -were coming into bloom, and secured some most -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span>striking and beautiful kinds for the Horticultural -Society.</p> - -<p>Several very distinct and beautiful Azaleas were -added to my collections at Shanghae, as well as -many other plants of an ornamental character -which have not yet been described. I fully expect -that many of these will prove hardy enough to -thrive in the open air in England, and that others -will make excellent plants for the greenhouse.</p> - -<p>Being now well acquainted with the country in -the immediate vicinity of Shanghae, I was anxious -to extend my researches into the interior, particularly -as far as some hills which were said to be -about thirty miles distant, in a westerly direction. -It was extremely difficult to gain any information -on this subject from the Chinese, who were particularly -jealous of foreigners going any distance -inland. Their suspicious feelings had also been -much increased at this time, by the indiscretion of -some of our own countrymen, who had hired a boat -and gone a considerable distance up one of the -rivers, taking soundings with bamboo poles, in the -manner of the Chinese. The authorities suspected -that they had some particular object in view in -ascertaining the depth of the river, and immediately -complained to Captain Balfour, the English -consul, who was consequently obliged to notice the -circumstance.</p> - -<p>Being determined, however, to make an effort to -accomplish the object I had in view, I procured a -pony and a pocket compass, and started off one -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span>morning early on a voyage of discovery. The hills -were said to lie westerly, and in that direction I -rode for eight or ten miles without seeing anything -higher than a mound of earth. The compass was -my only guide both in going and also in finding -my way back again; the roads were generally not -more than four or six feet wide, but still the -country had its highways and byways, and for a -length of time I was fortunate enough to keep on -the former; as long as I did so, I got easily over -the numerous canals which intersect the country -in all directions, because wherever these are crossed -by the main road, good substantial stone bridges -are erected. At last I got a glimpse of the hills in -the distance, and in my anxiety to take the shortest -road, I lost sight of the highway, and got entangled -amongst byways and canals. I was soon in a -somewhat critical position, the bridges which I was -constantly crossing were old, narrow, and rotten, -and the feet of my pony were every now and then -getting entangled between the planks. At length -we came to one much worse than the others, and -although I got off and did every thing to persuade -the pony to follow me over it, with great reluctance -he attempted to do so, but when about the centre -of the bridge, his feet got fast in the rotten planking, -and in the struggle to free himself, the centre -gave way; I had just time to spring to the bank, -when the bridge and pony both fell into the canal. -Luckily for me the poor animal swam to the side I -was on, and allowed me to catch him when he got -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>out of the water: he was completely covered with -mud, and my saddle and bridle were of course in a -sad condition. By the assistance of some labourers -who were at work within a short distance, I was -soon enabled to get out of this network of canals, -and regain the main road; but this was a lesson -to me, and as long as I was in China, I never afterwards -went off the main road when I was on -horseback.</p> - -<p>I reached a small town in the vicinity of the -hills about two o'clock in the afternoon; the pony -having had nothing to eat since we left Shanghae, -was much exhausted, and I was therefore anxious -to procure a feed of corn for him at some of the -shops. The news of the presence of a foreigner in -the town spread like lightning, and I was soon surrounded -and followed by some thousands of people -of both sexes, young and old, who were all anxious -to get a glimpse of my features and dress. Their -behaviour on the whole, however, was civil and respectful, -and the only inconvenience I had to -complain of was the pressure of the crowd. For a -few of the copper coin of the country, a boy had -promised to take me to a shop where I could purchase -something for the pony, and we wended our -way through the crowd, which was every moment -becoming more dense, towards, as I supposed, a corn -or hay shop. At last, to my surprise, he came to a -halt in front of an eating house, and my guide came -and asked me for money to go in and buy some -boiled rice. "But I want a feed for the pony," -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>said I. "Very well, give me the money, and I will -fetch you a basin of boiled rice for him." "You -had better bring him a pair of chopsticks also," said -I, as I put the money into his hand. The idea of -a pony eating with chopsticks delighted the crowd, -and put them into high good humour: during my -travels in the interior, I often found the benefit of -having a joke with the natives.</p> - -<p>My pony seemed to enjoy the meal which was -set before him, and I too had some rice from the -same pot. I then proceeded on foot to examine -the nearest hill, and soon came to the conclusion -that it would be advantageous for me to be some -days in the vicinity of this place. As I could not -trust the natives with the pony, which belonged -to the head mandarin in Shanghae, I determined -to take him home again myself, and hire a boat -with which I could return by any of the numerous -canals which branch all over the country, and stay -as long as I pleased. I reached Shanghae late on -the same evening, weary enough, having ridden at -least sixty miles during the day.</p> - -<p>A few days after this, having engaged a boat, -I started early one morning, and taking advantage -of the tide, which ebbs and flows over all this part -of the country, I reached the hills on the same -evening. The country through which I passed -was rich and fertile, cotton forming the staple production -of the fields in the neighbourhood of -Shanghae. After passing the cotton district, I -came into a tract of country in which a cruciferous -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>plant seemed to be principally cultivated. From this -plant a kind of indigo or blue dye is prepared; it -is called <i>Tein-ching</i> by the Chinese. Very large quantities -of this substance are brought to Shanghae, and -all the other towns in the north of China, where it -is used in dyeing the blue cotton cloth, which forms -the principal article of dress of the poorer classes. -I brought home living specimens of the plant which -produces this dye, and as these are now in flower -in the gardens of the Horticultural Society, the -proper scientific name of the plant will soon be -ascertained.<a name="FNanchor_1_13" id="FNanchor_1_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_13" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> - -<p>As I approached the hills the level of the country -became lower, and at that time of the year (June) -it was completely flooded, and rice was extensively -cultivated. In general, the higher land of this -vast plain is used in the cultivation of cotton and -the cruciferous plant mentioned above; while the -lower lands, those which are easily flooded, are -converted into rice fields. Here and there on my -way I met with large trees of the <i>Salisburia -adiantifolia</i>, which are the largest and most striking -trees in this part of the country. Small patches -of bamboo were seen around all the villages, and -groups of cypress and pine generally marked the -last resting places of the Chinese, which are scattered -over all the country.</p> - -<p>The hills were very different from any which I -had seen in the more southern parts of China: -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>they are not more than 400 feet in height, and -have none of that bold and rugged character which -I have formerly noticed. Here and there crumbling -rocks show themselves above the surface, but these -are not so general as to affect the general pastoral-looking -appearance of these hills. The country is -also more richly wooded than any other part near -Shanghae, and, of course, contains a greater number -of species of plants. One curious fact, however, -came under my notice: no Azaleas were met -with in this part of the country, although the hills -about sixty or eighty miles to the south abound in -such plants; and, although the other plants, which -accompany Azaleas on the Chusan and Ning-po -hills, were here growing in all their native luxuriance, -these, their more lovely companions, were -not to be found. I can scarcely believe that the -hills between Ning-po and Shanghae are the most -northern limit for this class of plants; yet such -from my own observations would appear to be the -case.</p> - -<p>The natives in this part of the country were -vastly surprised when they saw me for the first -time; at the different villages and towns, men, -women, and children of all ranks lined the banks -of the canals as my boat passed along, and often -requested me to come out in order that they might -have a better opportunity of seeing me. "When I -left my boat for the purpose of ascending the hills, -my boatmen used to make a good deal of money -by allowing the people to go in and inspect my -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>little cabin. A copy of the "Pictorial Times," -which I happened to have with me, was greatly -admired, and I was obliged to leave it amongst -them. It is a remarkable fact, however, that nothing, -as far as I know, was ever stolen from me -at this time, although several hundred persons -visited my boat in my absence. The boatmen must -either have been very sharp, or the people must have -had a superstitious dread of the property of a -foreigner: to put it down to their honour is, I am -afraid, out of the question!</p> - -<p>Having finished my researches amongst the hills, -I left this part of the country and returned to -Shanghae. The "Helen Stuart," one of the first -vessels which left Shanghae for England direct, -was at this time ready for sea, and I availed myself -of this opportunity to send some cases of plants -to the Horticultural Society, which, I regret to -say, arrived in very bad condition. When I had -despatched these cases, I determined on another -journey into the interior.</p> - -<p>Every one who has been in China, or who is at -all acquainted with Chinese history, has heard of -the city of <i>Soo-chow-foo</i>. If a stranger enters -a shop in Hong-Kong, in Canton, or in any of -the other towns in the south, he is sure to be -told, when he inquires the price of any curiosity -out of the common way, that it has been brought -from this celebrated place; let him order any -thing superb, and it must be sent for from -Soo-chow—fine pictures, fine carved work, fine -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>silks, and fine ladies, all come from Soo-chow.—It -is the Chinaman's earthly paradise, and it -would be hard indeed to convince him that it had -its equal in any town on earth. In addition to -its other attractions, I was informed by the Chinese -nursery gardeners at Shanghae that it contained a -great number of excellent flower gardens and -nurseries, from which they obtained all or nearly -all the plants which they had for sale, and I was, -therefore, strongly tempted to infringe the absurd -laws of the Celestial Empire, and try to reach this -far-famed place. My greatest difficulty was to -meet with boatmen who would travel with me, as -they were all frightened for the mandarins, who had -issued very stringent orders to them after the circumstance -happened which I have already noticed. -They were told, that they might take foreigners -down the river towards the sea, and up as far as -a pagoda a mile or two above Shanghae, but on no -account were they to go up the western branch -of the river. This was a direct infringement on -the right which had been secured to us by the -treaty of Nanking, and her Majesty's consul at -this port soon found it necessary and prudent to -interfere in the matter. Some time after this period, -when what are called the boundaries were fixed, -the foreign residents were allowed to go a day's -journey into the interior, that is, as far as they -could go and come back again in twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p>Having at length procured a boat, we set off on -our journey, the boatmen neither knowing where -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>I intended to go to, or how long I was to be absent -from Shanghae. I simply told them we were -going into the country in search of plants, and -that they must take a supply of rice for several days. -My Chinese servant, who always accompanied me, -also informed them, that it was a common thing -for me to wander about the country in search of -plants, but that I was <i>perfectly harmless</i>, and -would take care that they should not get into any -trouble on my account. This gave them some -confidence, and as the wind and tide were both in -our favour, we were soon a considerable distance -away from Shanghae. As I knew pretty well in -what direction Soo-chow lay, I took my course -by a pocket compass which I always carried with -me. After getting twenty or thirty miles from -Shanghae, I judged it prudent to break the subject -of my wishes to my companions. First of all, I -took my servant aside; he was a most active fellow, -and capable of persuading the others to do -any thing he liked. "Now," said I to him, "I -want to visit Soo-chow, and if you will persuade -the boatmen to go on there, I will make you a -present of five dollars when we return; besides, -you may tell the men that I shall double the -amount of the hire which I have already promised -them." Upon this a long conference ensued, the -result of which was that they determined to accept -my offer.</p> - -<p>I was, of course, travelling in the Chinese costume; -my head was shaved, I had a splendid wig -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>and tail, of which some Chinaman informer days had -doubtless been extremely vain, and upon the whole -I believe I made a pretty fair Chinaman. Although -the Chinese countenance and eye differ considerably -from those of a native of Europe, yet a traveller -in the north has far greater chance of escaping -detection than in the south of China, the features -of the northern natives approaching more nearly -to those of Europeans than they do in the south, -and the difference amongst themselves also being -greater.</p> - -<p>In China, the canal is the traveller's highway, -and the boat is his carriage, and hence the absence -of good roads and carriages in this country. -Such a mode of conveyance is not without its advantages, -however little we may think of it in -England; for as the tide ebbs and flows through -the interior for many miles, the boats proceed with -considerable rapidity; the traveller, too, can sleep -comfortably in his little cabin, which is, in fact, -his house for the time being.</p> - -<p>The canal, after leaving Shanghae, leads in a -northerly direction, inclining sometimes a little to -the west; branches leading off in all directions -over the country. Some very large towns and -walled cities were passed on our route, at one of -which, named <i>Cading</i>, we halted for the night just -under the ramparts. I spread out my bed in my -little cabin, and went to sleep rather early, intending -to start by times with the tide next morning, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span>and get as far as possible during the ensuing day. -But, as my countryman says,—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>"The best laid schemes of mice and men gang aft agee;"</p></blockquote> - -<p>and I awoke during the night by the cool air blowing -in upon my head through one of the windows -of the boat, which I had shut before I went to -rest. I jumped up immediately and looked out, -and through the darkness I could discern that we -were drifting down the canal with the tide, now -coming in contact with some other boat, which -had been fastened up like ourselves for the night, -and now rubbing against the branches of trees -which hung over the sides of the canal. I lost no -time in awaking my servant and the boatmen, -who rubbed their eyes with astonishment, and exclaimed -that some robber must have boarded us. -This had never struck me before, but when I called -for a light, I found that all my clothes, English and -Chinese, were gone. Our visitor, who ever he had -been, after taking possession of all the cabin contained, -cut the rope by which we were fastened, -and shoved us off into the centre of the canal, -along which we had drifted a considerable way -before I awoke. Fortunately for me, the few -dollars I had with me were in my Chinese purse -beneath my pillow.</p> - -<p>"What shall we do," said my servant when we -had made the boat fast again to some others on -the side of the canal, "your clothes are all gone?"</p> - -<p>"Do," said I, laughing; "I think the best -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>thing we can do is to go to bed again until daylight." -This being agreed to, we were soon all once -more sound asleep. When morning dawned, I -sent my servant into the town of Cading with a -few dollars, which procured me another dress, and -we proceeded on our journey.</p> - -<p>The city of Cading is large and fortified, -although the walls and ramparts are in a state -of decay. It is evidently a very ancient place. -Here a large quantity of the celebrated carving is -done, for which the Chinese in the north are so -well known. After leaving this town, the canal -which was narrow, continued in a northerly -direction for a few miles, and then, all at once, our -little boat shot out of it into a broad and beautiful -canal, resembling a lake or broad river, running -nearly east and west, and probably connecting -itself with the Yang-tse-kiang river, somewhere -between Woosung and Nanking. The scenery -here is extremely striking; the broad and smooth -canal bears on its waters hundreds of Chinese boats -of all sizes, under sail, and each hurrying to its -place of destination; pagodas here and there are -seen rearing their heads above the woods and -Budhist temples, which are scattered over this -wide and extensive plain. One of these temples -crowns a solitary little hill named <i>Quin-san</i>, which -at certain seasons of the year is visited by crowds -of people from Soo-chow and the neighbouring -towns; the whole country, as far as the eye can -reach, is one vast rice-field, and everywhere the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>pleasing clatter of the water-wheels falls upon the -ear, and hundreds of happy and contented Chinese -peasants are seen engaged in the cultivation of -the soil. After continuing its westerly course for -some distance, the canal divided, and the branch -we took soon led us to another town named <i>Ta-tsong-tseu</i>. -It is a place of great size, walled and -fortified like Cading and Shanghae, and is probably -larger than the latter, although perhaps not so -populous. A great number of large old junks are -moored on the canal round the walls, apparently -used as dwelling-houses, being now unfit for any -other service. This town too, like Cading, is -evidently in a decaying state, judging from the -dilapidated condition of the houses and fortifications, -but teems with an immense population of -men, women, and particularly children.</p> - -<p>On approaching Soo-chow some hills were seen, -bounding the level plain, which I afterwards found -were some few miles west from the town itself. -The whole country here, as well as near Cading, is -one vast rice-field. Many females are employed in -driving the water-wheels, generally three or four -to each wheel: these ladies have large feet, or -rather their feet are of the natural size; indeed, if -they were cramped in the usual way it would be -impossible for them to work on the water-wheel. -Small feet, however, are general amongst the -lower classes who work in the fields, for of the -hundreds whom I observed hoeing the cotton, or -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span>engaged in other agricultural operations, but a -small proportion had feet of the natural size.</p> - -<p>A few miles on the east of Soo-chow there is a -large and beautiful lake, twelve or fifteen miles -across, through which the boats from Sung-Kiang-foo -and other places in that direction approach the -city. After passing this lake the canal, which -had widened considerably, now began to contract; -bridges here and there were passed, villages and -small towns lined the banks, and everything denoted -the approach to a city of some size and -importance. It was a delightful summer's evening -on the 23rd of June, when I approached this far-famed -town. The moon was up, and with a fair -light breeze my little boat scudded swiftly, its -masts and sails reflected in the clear water of the -canal; the boats thickened as we went along, the -houses became more crowded and larger, lanterns -were moving in great numbers on the bridges and -sides of the canal, and in a few minutes more we -were safely moored, among some hundreds of other -boats, under the walls of this celebrated city. -Having taken all the precautions in our power -against another nightly visitor, my servant, the -boatmen, and myself, were soon fast asleep.</p> - -<p>With the first dawn of morning I was up, and -dressed with very great care by my Chinese servant, -whom I then despatched to find out the -nursery gardens in the city, in order to procure -the plants which I wanted. When he had obtained -this information he returned, and we proceeded -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span>together into the city, in order to make my selections.</p> - -<p>When I left the boat, I confess I felt rather -nervous as to the trial I was about to make. -Although I had passed very well as a Chinaman -in the country districts, I knew that the inhabitants -of large towns, and particularly those in a town -like this, were more difficult to deceive. My old -friends, or I should rather say my enemies, the -dogs, who are as acute as any Chinaman, evidently -did not disown me as a countryman, and this at -once gave me confidence. These animals manifest -very great hatred to foreigners, barking at them -wherever they see them, and hanging on their -skirts until they are fairly out of sight of the house -or village where their masters reside.</p> - -<p>As I was crossing the bridge, which is built over -the moat or canal on the outside of the city walls, -numbers of the Chinese were loitering on it, -leaning over its sides, and looking down upon the -boats which were plying to and fro. I stopped -too, and looked down upon the gay and happy -throng, with a feeling of secret triumph when I -remembered that I was now in the most fashionable -city of the Celestial Empire, where no -Englishman, as far as I knew, had ever been -before. None of the loiterers on the bridge -appeared to pay the slightest attention to me, by -which I concluded that I must be very much like -one of themselves. How surprised they would -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>have been had it been whispered to them that an -Englishman was standing amongst them.</p> - -<p>The city of Soo-chow-foo, in its general features, -is much the same as the other cities in the north, -but is evidently the seat of luxury and wealth, and -has none of those signs of dilapidation and decay -which one sees in such towns as Ning-po. A noble -canal, as wide as the river Thames at Richmond, -runs parallel with the city walls, and acts as a moat -as well as for commercial purposes. Here, as at -Cading and Ta-tsong-tseu, a large number of invalided -junks are moored, and doubtless make -excellent Chinese dwelling-houses, particularly to a -people so fond of living on the water. This same -canal is carried through arches into the city, where -it ramifies in all directions, sometimes narrow and -dirty, and at other places expanding into lakes of -considerable beauty; thus enabling the inhabitants -to convey their merchandise to their houses from -the most distant parts of the country. Junks and -boats of all sizes are plying on this wide and beautiful -canal, and the whole place has a cheerful and -flourishing aspect, which one does not often see in -the other towns in China, if we except Canton and -Shanghae. The walls and ramparts are high, and -in excellent repair, having considerable resemblance -to those of Ning-po, but in much better order. -The east wall, along the side of which I went all -the way, is not more than a mile in length, but -the north and south are much longer, thus making -the city a parallelogram. That part of the city -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>near the east gate, by which I entered, is anything -but splendid; the streets are narrow and dirty, -and the population seems of the lowest order, but -towards the west the buildings and streets are -much finer, the shops are large, and everything -denotes this to be the rich and aristocratic part of -the town. The city gates seem to be well guarded -with Chinese soldiers, and all the streets and lanes -inside are intersected at intervals with gates, -which are closed at nine or ten o'clock at night. -The Governor General of the province resides -here, and keeps those under his control in excellent -order.</p> - -<p>The number of nursery gardens in this city had -been exaggerated by my Chinese friends at -Shanghae, but nevertheless there were several of -considerable extent, out of which I was able to -procure some new and valuable plants. Among -these I may notice in passing a white <i>Glycine</i>, a -fine new double yellow rose, and a <i>Gardenia</i> with -large white blossoms, like a Camellia. These plants -are now in England, and will soon be met with in -every garden in the country. The Soo-chow nurseries -abounded in dwarf trees, many of which were -very curious and old, two properties to which the -Chinese attach far greater importance than we do -in England.</p> - -<p>The ladies here are considered by the Chinese to -be the most beautiful in the country, and, judging -from the specimens which I had an opportunity of -seeing, they certainly deserve their high character. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>Their dresses are of the richest material, made in a -style at once graceful and elegant; and the only -faults I could find with them were their small -deformed feet, and the mode they have of painting -or whitening their faces with a kind of powder -made for this purpose. But what seemed faults in -my eyes are beauties in those of a Chinaman, and -hence the prevalence of these customs.</p> - -<p>Soo-chow-foo seems to be the great emporium of -the central provinces of China, for which it is -peculiarly well fitted by its situation. The trade -of Ning-po, Hang-chow, Shanghae, and many -other towns on the south: Ching-kiang-foo, -Nanking, and even Peking itself on the north, all -centres here, and all these places are connected -either by the Grand Canal, or by the hundreds of -canals of lesser note, which ramify over all this -part of the empire. Shanghae, from its favourable -position as regards Soo-chow, will doubtless become -one day a place of vast importance, in a commercial -point of view, both as regards Europe and America.</p> - -<p>I remained for several days in this city, and its -neighbourhood, when, having done all that was -possible under the circumstances, I set out on my -way back to Shanghae. When I arrived, I was -obliged to go on shore in my Chinese dress, as the -English one had been stolen by my midnight -visitor. The disguise, however, was so complete, -that I was not recognised by a single individual, -although I walked up the street where I was well -known, and even my friend Mr. Mackenzie, with -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span>whom I was staying, did not know me for the first -few minutes after I sat down in his room.</p> - -<p>In the town of Shanghae, as well as in many other -large Chinese towns, there are a number of public -hot water bathing establishments, which must be of -great importance as regards the health and comfort -of the natives. I will describe one which I passed -daily during my residence in Shanghae. There are -two outer rooms used for undressing and dressing; -the first, and largest, is for the poorer classes; the -second, for those who consider themselves more -respectable, and who wish to be more private. As you -enter the largest of these rooms, a placard which -is hung near the door informs you what the charges -are, and a man stands there to receive the money -on entrance. Arranged in rows down the middle -and round the sides of both rooms are a number of -small boxes or lockers, furnished with lock and -key, into which the visitors put their clothes, and -where they can make sure of finding them when -they return from the bathing room, which is -entered by a small door at the farther end of the -building, and is about 30 feet long and 20 feet -wide; the water occupying the whole space, except -a narrow path round the sides. The water is from -1 foot to 18 inches deep, and the sides of the bath -are lined with marble slabs, from which the bathers -step into the water, and on which they sit and -wash themselves: the furnace is placed on the outside, -and the flues are carried below the centre of -the bath.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>In the afternoon anti evening this establishment -is crowded with visitors, and on entering the bath -room, the first impression is almost insupportable; -the hot steam or vapour meets you at the door, -filling the eyes and ears, and causing perspiration -to run from every pore of the body; it almost -darkens the place, and the Chinamen seen in this -imperfect light, with their brown skins and long -tails, sporting amongst the water, render the scene -a most ludicrous one to an Englishman.</p> - -<p>Those visitors who use the common room pay -only six copper cash; the others pay eighteen, but -they have in addition a cup of tea and a pipe of -tobacco from the proprietors. I may mention that -one hundred copper cash amount to about 4½<i>d</i>. of -our money; so that the first class enjoy a hot -water bath for about one farthing! and the other a -bath, a private room, a cup of tea, and a pipe of -tobacco for something less than one penny!</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_13" id="Footnote_1_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_13"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It has proved to be a new species, and has been named -Isatis indigotica.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XIV.</h3> - -<p>CHINESE COTTON CULTIVATION.—YELLOW COTTON.—DISTRICT -WHERE IT GROWS.—COTTON COUNTRY DESCRIBED.—SOIL.—MANURE, -AND MODE OF APPLICATION.—PRECEDING CROPS.—TIME -OF SOWING.—METHOD.—RAINS.—SUMMER CULTIVATION.—EARLY -RAIN ADVANTAGEOUS.—TIME OF REAPING -AND GATHERING.—COTTON FARMERS AND THEIR FAMILIES.—DRYING -AND CLEANING PROCESS DESCRIBED.—MARKETING.—INDEPENDENCE -OF THE SELLER.—CROWDED STREETS IN -SHANGHAE DURING THE COTTON SEASON.—WAREHOUSES AND -PACKING.—HOME CONSUMPTION.—STALKS USED FOR FUEL.</p> - -<p class="p2">The Chinese or Nanking cotton plant is the <i>Gossypium -herbaceum</i> of botanists, and the "<i>Mie wha</i>" of -the northern Chinese. It is a branching annual, -growing from one to three or four feet in height, -according to the richness of the soil, and flowering -from August to October. The flowers are of a -dingy yellow colour, and, like the Hibiscus or -Malva, which belong to the same tribe, remain expanded -only for a few hours, in which time they -perform the part allotted to them by nature, and -then shrivel up and soon decay. At this stage the -seed pod begins to swell rapidly, and when ripe, -the outer coating bursts and exposes the pure -white cotton in which the seeds lie imbedded.</p> - -<p>The yellow cotton, from which the beautiful -Nanking cloth is manufactured, is called "<i>Tze mie</i> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span><i>wha</i>" by the Chinese, and differs but slightly -in its structure and general appearance from -the kind just noticed. I have often compared -them in the cotton fields where they were growing, -and although the yellow variety has a more -stunted habit than the other, it has no characters -which constitute a distinct species. It is merely -an accidental variety, and although its seeds -may generally produce the same kind, they doubtless -frequently yield the white variety, and <i>vice -versâ</i>. Hence, specimens of the yellow cotton -are frequently found growing amongst the white -in the immediate vicinity of Shanghae; and again a -few miles northward, in fields near the city of -<i>Poushan</i> on the banks of the Yang-tse-kiang, where -the yellow cotton abounds, I have often gathered -specimens of the white variety.</p> - -<p>The Nanking cotton is chiefly cultivated in the -level ground around Shanghae, where it forms the -staple summer production of the country. This -district, which is part of the great plain of the -Yang-tze-kiang, although flat, is yet several feet -above the level of the water in the rivers and canals, -and is consequently much better fitted for cotton -cultivation than those flat rice districts in various -parts of the country,—such for example as the -plain of Ning-po,—where the ground is either wet -and marshy, or liable at times to be completely -overflowed. Some fields in this district are, of -course, low and marshy, and these are cultivated -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>with rice instead of cotton, and regularly flooded -by the water-wheel during the period of growth. -Although the cotton land is generally flat, so much -so, indeed, that no hills can be seen from the tops -of the houses in the city of Shanghae, it has nevertheless -a pleasing and undulating appearance, and -taken as a whole, it is perhaps the most fertile -agricultural district in the world. The soil is a -strong rich loam capable of yielding immense crops -year after year, although it receives but a small -portion of manure.</p> - -<p>The manure applied to the cotton lands of the -Chinese, is doubtless peculiarly well fitted for this -kind of crop. It is obtained from the canals, -ponds, and ditches which intersect the country in -every direction, and consists of mud which has -been formed partly by the decay of long grass, -reeds, and succulent water plants, and partly by the -surface soil which has been washed down from the -higher ground by the heavy rains. Every agricultural -operation in China seems to be done with -the greatest regularity, at certain stated times, -which experience has proved the best, and in -nothing is this more apparent than in the manuring -of the cotton lands. Early in April the agricultural -labourers, all over the country, are seen busily -employed in cleaning these ponds and ditches. The -water is first of all partly drawn off, and then the -mud is thrown up on the adjoining land to dry, -where it remains for a few days until all the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>superfluous water is drained out of it, and is then -conveyed away and spread over the cotton fields. -Previous to this, the land has been prepared for its -reception, having been either ploughed up with -the small buffalo plough in common use in the -country, and then broken and pulverised by the -three-pronged hoe, or, in those instances where the -farms are small and cannot boast of a buffalo and -plough, it is loosened and broken up entirely by -manual labour. When the mud is first spread -over the land, it is, of course, hard or cloggy, but -the first showers soon mix it with the surface soil, -and the whole becomes pulverised, and it is then -ready for the reception of the cotton seed. Road-scrapings -and burnt rubbish are saved up with -care, and used for the same purpose and in the -same manner.</p> - -<p>A considerable portion of the cotton lands either -lie fallow during the winter months, or are planted -with those crops which are ready for gathering prior -to the sowing of the cotton seed. Frequently, however, -two crops are found growing in the field at -the same time. Wheat, for example, which is a -winter crop, is reaped in the Shanghae district -generally about the end of May, while the proper -time for putting in the cotton seed is the beginning -of that month or the end of April. In order, -therefore, to have cotton on the wheat lands, the -Chinese sow its seeds at the usual time amongst the -wheat, and when the latter is reaped, the former is -several inches above ground, and ready to grow -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>with vigour when it is more fully exposed to the -influence of sun and air. The Shanghae season—that -is, from the late spring frosts to those in autumn—is -barely long enough for the production -and ripening of the cotton, as it is easily injured by -frost, and the Chinese farmer is thus obliged, in -order to gain time and obtain two crops from his -ground in one year, to sow its seeds before the -winter crop is ready to be removed from the -ground. When it is possible to have the first crop -entirely removed before the cotton is sown it is -much preferred, as the land can then be well worked -and properly manured, neither of which can otherwise -be done. The method of sowing one crop before -the preceding one is ripe and removed from the -land is very common in this part of the country; -and even in autumn, before the cotton stalks are -taken out of the ground, other seeds are frequently -seen germinating and ready to take the place of the -more tender crop.</p> - -<p>In the end of April and beginning of May—the -land having been prepared in the manner just -described—the cotton seeds are carried in baskets -to the fields, and the sowing commences. They -are generally sown broad-cast, that is, scattered regularly -over the surface of the ground, and then -the labourers go over the whole surface with their -feet and tread them carefully in. This not only embeds -the seeds, but also acts like a roller to break -and pulverise the soil. Germination soon commences, -the seeds rooting first in the manure which -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span>had been scattered over the surface of the land. -In some cases the seed, instead of being sown broadcast, -is sown in drills or patches, but this mode is -less common than the other. The rains, which always -fall copiously at the change of the monsoon -which takes place at this season of the year, warm -and moisten the earth, and the seeds swell, and -vegetation progresses with wonderful rapidity. -Many of the operations in Chinese agriculture are -regulated by the change of the monsoon. The -farmer knows from experience, that, when the -winds, which have been blowing from the north -and east for the last seven months, change to the -south and west, the atmosphere will be highly -charged with electric fluid, and the clouds will -daily rain and refresh his crops.</p> - -<p>The cotton fields are carefully tended during the -summer months. The plants are thinned where -they have been sown too thickly, the earth is -loosened amongst the roots, and the ground hoed -and kept free from weeds. If the season is favourable, -immense crops are obtained owing to the -fertility of the soil, but if the weather happens to -be unusually dry from June to August, the crop -receives a check which it never entirely recovers, -even although the ground, after that period, should -be moistened by frequent showers. 1845 was a -season of this kind, and the crop was a very deficient -one compared with that of the previous year. -The spring was highly favourable, and the plants -looked well up to the month of June, when the dry -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>weather set in, and gave them a check which they -never recovered. Abundance of rain fell later in -the season but it was then too late, and only caused -the plants to grow tall and run to leaf, without -producing those secretions which ultimately go to -the formation of flowers and seed.</p> - -<p>The cotton plant produces its flowers in succession -from August to the end of October, but -sometimes, when the autumn is mild, blooms are -produced even up to November, when the cold -nights generally nip the buds, and prevent them -from forming seed. In the autumn of 1844 this -happened on the night of the 28th of October, when -the thermometer sunk to the freezing point, and -then ice was found on the sides of the canals and -ponds.</p> - -<p>As the pods are bursting every day, it is necessary -to have them gathered with great regularity, -otherwise they fall upon the ground and the cotton -gets dirty, which of course reduces its value in the -market. Little bands of the Chinese are now seen -in the afternoon in every field, gathering the ripe -cotton and carrying it home to the houses of the -farmers. As the farms are generally small, they -are worked almost entirely by the farmer and his -family, consisting sometimes of three or even four -generations, including the old grey-haired grand-father -or great-grandfather, who has seen the -crops of four-score years gathered into his barns. -Every member of these family groups has a certain -degree of interest in his employment; the harvest is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>their own, and the more productive it is, the greater -number of comforts they will be able to afford. Of -course there are many cotton farms of larger size, -where labourers are employed in addition to the -farmer's family, but by far the greater number are -small and worked in the way I have just described. -It is no unusual sight to see the family goat too, -doing their share of the work. Several of these -animals are kept on almost every farm, where they -are, of course, great favourites with the children, -and often follow them to the cotton fields. Although -the children with their little hands can -gather the cotton as well as their elders, they are -not strong enough to carry it about with them, -and it is amusing to see their favourites the goats, -with bags slung across their backs, receiving the -deposits of cotton, and bearing it home to the -houses, evidently aware that they too are working -for the general good.</p> - -<p>However fine the crop may be, the Chinese are -never sure of it until it is actually gathered in. -Much depends upon a dry autumn, for, if the -weather is wet after the pods begin to burst, they -drop amongst the muddy soil, and are consequently -much injured, if not completely destroyed. When -the cotton reaches the farm-yard, it is daily spread -out on hurdles raised about four feet from the -ground, and fully exposed to the sun. As the -object is to get rid of all the moisture, it is of -course only put out in fine weather, and is always -taken into the house or barn in the evening. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>When perfectly dry, the process of separating it -from the seeds commences. This is done by the -well-known wheel with two rollers, which, when -turned round, draws or sucks in the cotton, and -rejects the seeds. It is a simple and beautiful -contrivance, and answers well the end for which it -is designed. The cotton is now sent to market, -and a portion of the seeds are reserved for the next -year's crop.</p> - -<p>Early in the fine autumnal mornings, the roads -leading into Shanghae are crowded with bands of -coolies from the cotton farms, each with his bamboo -across his shoulders and a large sack of cotton swung -from each end. With these they hurry into the -town, for the purpose of disposing of them to the -merchants, who have numerous warehouses from -which they send the cotton to the other provinces -of the empire. These coolies or small farmers—for -many of them bring their own produce to market -themselves—are very independent in their dealings. -Having reached the first warehouse, the cotton is -exposed to the view of the merchant, who is asked -what price he intends to give for that particular -quality; and should the sum offered be below the -owner's expectations, he immediately shoulders his -load and walks away to another merchant. At this -season it is almost impossible to get along the -streets near the sides of the river where the cotton -warehouses are, owing to the large quantities of -this commodity which are daily brought in from -the country. It is bought up by the large cotton -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span>merchants, who empty it out in their warehouses, -and then repack it in a neat and compact manner -before it is conveyed on board the junks.</p> - -<p>Before the cotton is converted into thread for -the purpose of weaving, it is cleaned and freed -from knots by the well-known process common in -our possessions in India. This is done by an elastic -bow, the string of which being passed under a -portion of the cotton placed on a table, throws it -in the air by the vibration which is kept up by the -workman, and separates the fibre without at all -breaking or injuring it. At the same time the -wind caused by the sudden vibrations carries off -the dust and other impurities. After this process -the Chinese cotton is particularly pure and soft, -and is considered by good judges not to be surpassed -by any in the world. It is much superior to that -imported to China from Hindostan, and always -commands a higher price in the Chinese market.</p> - -<p>Every small farmer or cottager reserves a portion -of the produce of his fields for the wants of his own -family. This the female members clean, spin, and -weave at home. In every cottage throughout this -district the traveller meets with the spinning-wheel -and the small hand-loom, which used to be common -in our own country in days of yore, but which have -now given way to machinery. These looms are -plied by the wives and daughters, who are sometimes -assisted by the old men or young boys who -are unfit for the labours of the field. Where the -families are numerous and industrious, a much -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>greater quantity of cloth is woven than is required -for their own wants, and in this case the surplus is -taken to Shanghae and the adjacent towns for sale. -A sort of market is held every morning at one of -the gates of the city, where these people assemble -and dispose of their little bundles of cotton cloth. -Money is in this manner realised for the purchase -of tea and other necessaries which are not produced -by the farms in this particular district.</p> - -<p>When the last crops are gathered from the cotton -fields, the stalks are carried home for fuel. Thus -every part of the crop is turned to account: the -cotton itself clothes them, and affords them the -means of supplying themselves with all the necessaries -of life; the stalks boil their frugal meals; and -the ashes even—the remains of all—are strewed -over their fields for the purposes of manure. But -even before this takes place, the system I have -already noticed—of sowing and planting fresh -crops before the removal of those which occupy the -land—is already in progress. Clover, beans, and -other vegetables are frequently above ground in -the cotton fields before the stalks of the latter are -removed. Thus, the Chinese in the northern provinces -lengthen by every means in their power -the period of growth; and gain as much as they -possibly can from the fertility of their land. -The reader must bear in mind, however, that the -soil of this district is a rich deep loam, which is -capable of yielding many crops in succession without -the aid of a particle of manure. Nature has -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span>showered her bounties on the inhabitants of this -part of the Chinese empire with no sparing hand; -the soil is not only the most fertile in China, but the -climate is capable of rearing and bringing to perfection -many of the productions of the tropics, as well -as the whole of those found in all the temperate -regions of the globe.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XV.</h3> - -<p>CLIMATE OF CHINA.—SUMMER AND WINTER.—TEMPERATURE -OF HONG-KONG—OF SHANGHAE.—MONSOONS.—TYPHOONS.—SIGNS -OF THEIR APPROACH.—DESCRIPTION OF A TYPHOON -WITNESSED BY THE AUTHOR.—EFFECT PRODUCED UPON -VEGETATION.—RAINS.—WET AND DRY SEASONS.—METEOROLOGICAL -TABLE.</p> - -<p class="p2">In order to understand Chinese agriculture, a -knowledge of the climate of the country is of course -necessary. The dominions of the Emperor of -China stretch over twenty-three degrees of latitude—from -18° to 41° north, and from the 98° to the -123° of east longitude; thus including both tropical -and temperate regions in its vast extent. Being -placed on the east side and forming part of the -large continent of Asia, it is liable to extremes of -temperature—to excessive heat in summer, and -extreme cold in winter—which are unknown in -many other parts of the world within the same -parallels of latitude. One of our best writers upon -China<a name="FNanchor_1_14" id="FNanchor_1_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_14" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> makes the following very sensible remarks -on this subject:—"Although Peking is nearly a -degree to the south of Naples—the latitude of the -former place being 30° 54', of the latter 40° 50'—the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span>mean temperature of Peking is only 54° of -Fahrenheit, while that of Naples is 63°. But the -thermometer at the Chinese capital sinks much -lower during the winter than at Naples, so in -summer does it rise somewhat higher; the rivers -are said to be frozen for three or four months -together, from December to March; while during -the last embassy in September, 1816, we experienced -a heat of between 90° and 100° in the -shade. Now it is well known that Naples, and -other countries in the extreme south of Europe, are -strangers to such a degree of long-continued cold, -and not often visited by such heats. "Europe," -observes Humboldt, "may be considered altogether -as the western part of a great continent, and therefore -subject to all the influence which causes the -western sides of continents to be warmer than the -eastern; and at the same time more temperate, or -less subject to <i>excesses</i> of both heat and cold, but -principally the latter."</p> - -<p>From my own tables, kept by Newman's best -registering thermometers, I find that at Hong-kong, -in the months of July and August—the two -hottest months in the year—the mercury frequently -stood as high as 90°, and one day at 94° Fahr. in -the shade. The minimum was generally about ten -degrees lower than the maximum. In the winter, -from December to March, the thermometer frequently -sinks nearly down to the freezing point, and -sometimes, although rarely, snow has fallen at -Canton and on the adjacent hills. The influence of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>the sea, however, in this part of the empire, has a -tendency to check the extremes of both heat and -cold; but these are much greater in the northern -interior. The northerly winds in the winter and -spring months are severely cold in the south of -China; indeed, I have suffered more from cold at -Hong-kong and Macao in the month of February, -than I have ever done in England.</p> - -<p>At Shanghae, in the province of Keangsoo, in -latitude 31° 20' north, the extremes of heat and cold -are much greater than what we experienced in the -southern provinces. Through the kindness of Dr. -Lockhart, who kept up my meteorological tables -during my absence in different parts of the country, -I have obtained a very complete set of observations -for nearly two years. From these it appears that -in July and August the heat is the greatest; the -thermometer in the shade sometimes standing for -several days at 100° of Fahrenheit. The heat -during these days was almost insupportable to -Europeans, who, when I was in Shanghae, were -obliged to live in Chinese houses, which, from their -construction, were ill calculated to exclude the -heat. In the end of October the thermometer -sometimes sinks as low as the freezing point. In -the evening of the 28th of that month, in 1844, -the remains of the cotton and other tropical plants -which are cultivated in the fields during the -summer, were destroyed by frost. December, -January, and February are the coldest months in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span>the year, the cold then being quite as severe as it -is with us in the south of England. In the winter -of 1844–45 the thermometer sunk as low as 26° -Fahrenheit. On the night of the 18th of December, -and again on January, the 4th, the index was left -at 24°. But that winter, according to Chinese -accounts, was peculiarly mild, so much so, that the -usual supply of ice could not be procured. In -ordinary years the ponds and canals are frequently -frozen several inches in thickness, and afford a -plentiful supply of ice. I have, therefore, little -doubt that in most years the thermometer may be -found at least twenty degrees below the freezing -point, or at 12° of Fahrenheit, and perhaps even -lower. Snow frequently falls, but the sun is too -powerful to allow it to lie long on the ground.</p> - -<p>If we except the extremes of heat and cold just -noticed, the climate of Shanghae may be pronounced -as fine as any in the world. Even the cold in -winter is highly advantageous to the natives, and -still more so to Europeans and Americans, as it -strengthens their constitutions, and enables them to -withstand the effects of the excessive heat. The -months of April, May, and June are delightful, and -although the sun is hot in the middle of the day, in -the afternoon the air is soft and agreeable, and the -evenings cool and pleasant. The autumnal months -are generally of the same description; the wind then -is cool and bracing, and the sky is much clearer -than in England. The sun, for days, and sometimes -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span>for weeks together, rises in the morning, runs -his course, and sets again in a clear and cloudless -sky.</p> - -<p>The prevailing winds blow from the south-west -from the end of April to the middle of September; -during the remaining portion of the year they are -northerly and easterly: thus forming what are called -the south-west and north-east monsoons. These -monsoons blow with great regularity in the south -of China, but are more variable towards the north. -In the latitude of Chusan or Shanghae, although -the monsoons prevail, the wind, not unfrequently, -blows from other quarters. In the end of the summer -season, that is, from July to October, the country -is frequently visited by those dreadful gales called by -foreigners typhoons. The name is a corruption of -the Chinese word <i>Ta-fung</i> or "great wind." These -storms commit the most fearful ravages both by -land and sea. The barometer gives warning some -hours before the gale commences, and, therefore, -foreign ships can always send down their masts -and yards, and, if possible, remove to a safe anchorage. -Where that is not to be had, they have -the dreadful alternative of standing out to sea. -The Chinese, without the aid of the barometer, can -always tell when the <i>Ta-fung</i> is coming on by the -following signs. The wind, which blows from the -south-west in the typhoon season, changes and -blows from the north or north-cast, becoming gusty -and gradually increasing in strength, the sky -lowers and looks wild, the sea rolls in upon the bench -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span>with a dead heavy swell, and every thing portends a -coming storm. When these signs appear, the fleets -of fishing-boats on the coast take their nets in, crowd -all sail, and make for the shore as fast as they can, -where the boats are hauled up on dry land, or into -some creek which is sheltered from the force of -the winds and waves. The coasting junks, which -are ill fitted for bad weather, lose no time in getting -into some sheltered port where they can ride out -the storm in safety. And, luckily, as a safeguard -from the fury of these winds, nature has provided a -great number of excellent well-sheltered harbours -on the coast of China, all of which are well known -to the pilots who are employed on board the -junks.</p> - -<p>During my residence in China, I witnessed two -of these terrific gales—once at sea, and once on -shore. Luckily, in the first instance, we were able -to run into a deep bay, and with three anchors down -rode out the gale in perfect safety. The other occurred -on the 21st and 22d of August, 1844, when -I was at Ningpo. I observed the Chinese running -about in great consternation, and calling to each -other that the "great wind" was coming, and to -make preparations for it. Mats and rattan work, -which had been placed over the doors and windows -to afford shade from the sun, were hastily removed, -and many of the houses, which were known to be -in a weak state, were, in a rapid way, propped up -and strengthened. Nor were the husbandmen less -busy in the fields. The heads of the tall millet, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span>being nearly ripe, were quicky cut, and the long -stalks left to be reaped at another time. Millet is -so heavy when nearly ripe, that had it been left exposed -to the wind it must have been dashed to pieces, -and the crop entirely lost. Crops on the sides of -the rivers and canals were removed where it was -possible to do so; otherwise, they would have been -blown into the water, and carried away far beyond -the reach of their owners. All the fruit which was -nearly ripe was hastily gathered from the trees, -unnecessary branches were cut away, and others -tied up and supported.</p> - -<p>The gale gradually increased in force until daylight -on the morning of the 22d, when it seemed -to be at its height. In Mr. Mackenzie's house, where -I was staying at the time, we passed a fearful night. -The wind howled and whistled round the roof, -every blast seemingly more fierce than that which -preceded it, until I really thought we should have -the building down upon us and be buried in the -ruins. At daylight the rooms presented a dismal -appearance; all the floors, chairs, and tables were -covered with dust and pieces of broken tiles and -mortar which had been shaken out of the roof. -As the storm still raged with unabated fury, Mr. -Mackenzie and myself, glad to escape from the wreck -by which we were surrounded, went out to see what -effect the gale was producing on the other places -in the vicinity. The wind was so powerful, that it -was next to impossible to keep our feet; in fact, we -were frequently blown off the path, and were obliged -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span>to scramble back to it again on our bands and knees. -The river, which is generally beautiful and smooth, -had now risen and completely overflowed its banks, -having been forced back by the strength of the -wind, and was as rough as the sea itself. The whole -country was one vast sheet of troubled water, for -the branches of the river, and the numerous canals -by which it is intersected, had all overflowed their -banks, and had spread in the low paddy fields. -Most of the small boats were safe, as they were -either in sheltered creeks, or drawn up beyond -the reach of the water, but many of the large -wood-junks which frequent this port were not so -fortunate. These had been moored off the city, -having, as usual, a large portion of their cargo -lashed to their sides. In many instances, the combined -force of the winds and waves snapped the -lashings, strong as they were, and the spars of wood -floated from their sides, and were either carried -away by the force of the stream, or thrown on shore. -Hundreds of the Chinese were now ready to seize -the wood as it floated to land, and with a total -disregard to the "rights of property" conveyed it at -once to their own houses. No Mandarin or other -government officer interfered to prevent this, and -the Chinese servants of the English Consul and -other foreign residents actually brought a considerable -quantity to the houses of their masters, and -seemed surprised when reproved for their dishonesty. -The English of course honourably returned -the spoil to its owners, much to the surprise -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span>of the Chinese. On the opposite side of the river, -we observed great numbers engaged in the same -lawless occupation. The city walls, here, run parallel -with the river, and these rascals were coolly -hoisting the wood over the wails and ramparts, assisted -by their friends inside the city; nor was this -attempted to be checked.</p> - -<p>At about nine o'clock in the morning, the wind, -which commenced from the north, had veered round -to the east and south, but still raged with fearful -power. On retracing our steps, which we had some -difficulty in doing, owing to the flooded state of -the country, and the force of the wind, we encountered -a family group in the fields surrounding a -coffin, which the wind seemed inclined to carry off -in spite of all their efforts to fasten it to the ground. -It is customary in this part of the country to place -the remains of the dead upon the surface of the -ground, sometimes supporting the coffins on short -stakes, to raise them a few feet from the earth. In -this instance the poor people were actually fighting -with the winds, but were at last able to secure the -remains of their relative, and allow him to sleep -the long sleep of death in peace. At this time the -barometer stood at 28° 30', but the wind was still -blowing a perfect gale until about mid-day, when -it gradually became less violent. In the evening, -although the sky still looked wild, it was evident -the gale had passed away, and the wind was then -blowing from the south-west. The river soon returned -to its former limits, boats began to sail up -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span>and down, and business, which had been entirely -suspended, went on again as usual. Altogether, -the typhoon lasted nearly twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p>The following morning was calm and beautiful, -but the scene was one of ruin and devastation. -The streets were strewed with broken tiles and -mortar; many of the houses were completely unroofed, -walls were blown down, and every thing -evinced the violence of the storm. In the fields -the change was still more striking; but two days -before the trees and hedges were green, the gardens -were gay with flowers, and every thing bore the -happy smiling aspect of summer; now vegetation -had changed from green to withered sickly brown, -flowers had faded, trees were torn lip by the roots -and broken and shattered, and many of the crops -were completely ruined.</p> - -<p>The accounts which reached us from sea after -this typhoon proved that the loss of life had been -very great. For many days after the gale had -ceased, our vessels on the coast frequently met -with large portions of wreck floating about, the -remains of Chinese junks, which told a fearful tale. -An English vessel on her way to Chusan was -obliged to cut away her masts, and was towed into -the harbour a day or two afterwards by one of the -government steamers. Mr. Shaw, one of her passengers, -informed me that during the typhoon they -had a perfect calm for some time, and that then the -wind veered round to a different quarter, and blew -with increased violence. This is not unfrequently the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>case, and during these short lulls the vessels roll and -labour in a dreadful manner, owing to the heavy -swell of the sea, as they are then entirely at its -mercy, and have nothing to steady them.</p> - -<p>In the preceding year, this part of the country -was twice visited by typhoons, viz., on the 1st -of September and 1st of October. In the island of -Chusan, where they were particularly violent, the -most disastrous effects were produced upon the -crops. The little streams in the island were -swollen into large rivers, and carried away every -thing before them. The crops of entire fields, -chiefly paddy, were in some instances swept away, -and in others sanded completely up, and rendered -useless. The patched-up houses of our officers -who held the island at the time suffered severely. -During the typhoon of 1844, a house built on the -beach by one of the officers was actually lifting up, -and would doubtless have been carried away by -the force of the wind, but fortunately Brigadier -Campbell, who was passing at the time, gave the -alarm, and ordered out a number of men from the -barracks, who held it down until it was rendered -more secure.</p> - -<p>The wet and dry seasons in the southern and -tropical parts of China are more decided in their -character than they are in the northern portions of -the Empire. At Hong-kong and in the provinces of -the south, the winter season, that is, from October -to March, is generally dry, more particularly in -November, December, and January. The most wet -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span>months in the year are those near the change of -the monsoons, in May and June, and again in September, -when the rains fall in torrents, probably -owing to the stagnation produced in the atmosphere -by the change in the direction of the winds.</p> - -<p>The author before quoted explains this on the -following principles. He says:—"The north-east -monsoon, which commences about September, blows -strongest during the above period, and begins to -yield to the opposite monsoon in March. About -that time the southerly winds come charged with -the moisture which they have acquired in their -passage over the sea through warm latitudes; and -this moisture is suddenly condensed into thick fogs -as it comes in contact with the land of China, -which has been cooled down to a low temperature -by the long-continued northerly winds. The latent -heat given out, by the rapid distillation of this -steam into fluid, produces the sudden advance of -temperature which takes place about March; and -its effect is immediately perceptible in the stimulus -given to vegetation of all kinds, by this union of -warmth with moisture. With the progressive -increase of heat and evaporation those rains commence, -which tend so greatly to mitigate the -effects of the sun's rays in tropical climates. In -the month of May the fall of rain has been known -to exceed twenty inches, being more than a fourth -of all the year, and this keeps down the temperature -to the moderate average marked for that -month."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span>The following table made from observations kept -by the late Mr. Beale at Macao for a number of -years, shows the amount of the average monthly -fall of rain in inches:—</p> - -<table class="tb1"> -<tr><td rowspan="3"> </td><td colspan="5" class="tdc">Thermometer.</td><td rowspan="3">Mean<br />Height of<br />Barometer.</td><td rowspan="3">Average Fall<br />of Rain<br />in Inches.</td></tr> -<tr><td rowspan="2">Mean<br />Max.</td><td rowspan="2">Mean<br />Min.</td><td rowspan="2">Mean<br />Temp.</td><td colspan="2" class="tdc">Range.</td></tr> -<tr><td>From</td><td>To</td></tr> -<tr><td>January<br />February<br />March<br />April<br />May<br />June<br />July<br />August<br /> -September<br />October<br />November<br />December</td> -<td>57<br />58<br />71<br />76<br />78<br />84<br />88<br />86<br />84<br />76<br />68<br />63</td> -<td>45<br />45<br />60<br />69<br />73<br />79<br />84<br />83<br />79<br />70<br />61<br />52</td> -<td>51<br />51.5<br />65.5<br />72.5<br />75.5<br />81.5<br />86<br />84.5<br />81.5<br />73<br />64.5<br />57.5</td> -<td>65<br />68<br />79<br />84<br />86<br />89<br />94<br />90<br />88<br />85<br />79<br />69</td> -<td>29<br />33<br />45<br />59<br />69<br />74<br />81<br />79<br />75<br />60<br />48<br />40</td> -<td>30.23<br />30.12<br />30.17<br />30.04<br />29.89<br />29.87<br />29.84<br />29.86<br />29.90<br />30.04<br />30.14<br />30.25</td> -<td>0.675<br />1.700<br />2.150<br />5.675<br />11.850<br />11.100<br />7.750<br />9.900<br />10.925<br />5.500<br />2.425<br />0.975</td></tr> -<tr><td>Annual Means</td><td>74.1</td><td>66.7</td><td>70.4</td><td>81.3</td><td>57.6</td><td>30.03</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span style="margin-left: 13em;">Total rain, 70.625</span></p> - -<p>In the north the rains also fall copiously at the -change of the monsoons, more particularly in spring, -at which time they are of the greatest utility to the -crops, which are sown or planted about that time. -Those parts of China, however, which are included -in the temperate zone, cannot properly be said to -have a wet and dry season in the same sense as -these terms are generally understood in the tropics. -The winter months which are dry at Hong-kong -are far from having the same character, at Shanghae, -for example, where heavy and continued falls of rain -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span>and snow are of frequent occurrence. In fact, the -climate of Northern China has a greater resemblance -to that of the south of England or France, -than it has to that of the southern parts of the -Chinese empire; and although hotter, used always -to remind me of the beautiful summers we have in -England once in every ten and twelve years. The -sky is for days and weeks together without a cloud, -and in the evening a heavy dew falls and refreshes -vegetation.</p> - -<p>These remarks will assist the reader to understand -more fully the theory and practice of -Chinese agriculture, which form the subject of the -following chapter.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_14" id="Footnote_1_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_14"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Davis's "Chinese."</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XVI.</h3> - -<p>CHINESE AGRICULTURE—EXAGGERATED STATEMENTS REGARDING -ITS ADVANCEMENT.—SOIL OF THE HILLS.—TEA LAND.—SOIL -OF THE PLAINS.—SUMMER CROPS.—RICE AND ITS CULTIVATION.—CHINESE -PLOUGH AND HARROW.—NUMBER OF -CROPS PRODUCED.—METHOD OF OBTAINING TWO CROPS OF -RICE IN SUMMER IN THE PROVINCE OF CHEKIANG.—RICE -HARVEST.—TERRACE CULTIVATION DESCRIBED.—THE TEIN-CHING -PLANT, FROM WHICH THE NORTHERN INDIGO IS OBTAINED.—SUMMER -HILL CROPS.—CULTIVATION OF SWEET -POTATOES.—EARTH NUTS.—WINTER CROPS.—CELEBRATED -SHAN-TUNG CABBAGE.—OIL PLANT.—WHEAT, BARLEY, ETC.—RIPENING -OF WINTER CROPS.—MANURES—TWO PLANTS CULTIVATED -FOR THIS TURPOSE—THEIR CULTIVATION AND MODE -OF APPLICATION.—A MANURE FOR MIXING WITH SEEDS.—ITS -UTILITY.—OTHER MANURES IN COMMON USE.—MANURE TANKS.—NIGHT -SOIL AND URINE—MODE OF APPLICATION.—SUCCESSION -AND ROTATION OF CROPS.</p> - -<p class="p2"><i>The profession of agriculture in China</i> has been -highly honoured and encouraged by the government -of the country, from the earliest times down -to the present day. The husbandman ranks higher -here than he does in any other country in the -world, and the emperor himself marks his sense of -the importance of agriculture, by engaging in its -operations at the commencement of every season. -In his character of "Son of Heaven," or mediator -between the gods and his subjects, he devotes three -days to solemn fasting and prayer, after which he -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span>proceeds to a field, and with his own hands holds -the plough, and throws a portion of the rice seed -into the ground, thus showing the importance -which government attaches to industry in the cultivation -of the earth, that there may be plenty on the -land to supply the wants of the teeming population.</p> - -<p>The progress and advancement of the Chinese in -agriculture as an art has been, however, greatly -exaggerated by many who have adverted to this -subject in their writings. The Chinese government -has been always so jealous of foreigners entering -the country, that those who were probably able to -form a correct opinion on the subject were prevented -from doing so, and were led away by the -fertility of their imaginations; while, on the other -hand, the Roman Catholic missionaries who travelled -and resided in the interior, were evidently -ignorant of the art itself, as well as of the progress -it had made in other countries. But it must also -be borne in mind, that whilst agriculture has been -advancing rapidly towards perfection amongst the -nations of the western world, the Chinese in this, -as with most other things, have remained stationary, -and hence there must be a much greater -disparity between us and them now than there was -when the early writers upon China published their -works. To these writers, and more particularly -to those who kept on faithfully copying their works, -we must attribute the erroneous opinions which -have been generally held by us in every thing relating -to the agriculture of the Chinese. I have no -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>doubt that, as a nation, they surpass the natives of -India and other half-civilised states in this art, as -they do in most other peaceful accomplishments; -but it is ridiculous, now at least, to compare them -for a moment with our intelligent farmers in England -or Scotland. As well might we compare -their coasting junks with the navy of England, or -their merchants with ours, whose ships are met with -on every sea, and whose commercial operations extend -to every quarter of the world. In order, -however, that the reader may form an opinion for -himself, I will describe in detail what passed under -my own eye connected with this subject, during -my travels of nearly three years in the country. -In that space of time I had an opportunity of seeing -repeatedly the various methods of cultivation -and their results, both in the north and in the -south; all of which were carefully noted in my -journal at the time.</p> - -<p>I will begin with the southern provinces. These -are, of course, tropical, and differ from those in the -north in many respects, both with regard to soil -and the nature of the plants cultivated.</p> - -<p><i>The soil of the mountains</i> in the south of China is -of the poorest description. Rocks of granite are -seen every where protruding themselves above the -scanty vegetation, whilst the soil itself is composed -of dry burnt clay mixed with particles of granite -in a decaying or disintegrated state. This soil -naturally so poor, is kept so by the practice of -periodically cutting and carrying off the long grass -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span>and stunted bushes for fire-wood. Sometimes the -natives set fire to this upon the mountains, for the -purpose of affording a scanty manure, but nevertheless -the soil is miserably sterile. Almost all the -hilly portions of the south of China are in a state -of nature "<i>stern and wild</i>" where the hand of man -never attempts agricultural operations, and where it -is almost impossible he ever can. Here and there, -near the base of the hills, the far-famed terrace -cultivation may be seen, where the natives grow -small patches of rice and other vegetables, such as -sweet potatoes and earth-nuts, but the portion of -land in this part of the country used for such purposes, -bears but an extremely small proportion to -the vast tracts in a wild state.</p> - -<p>At Amoy and over all that part of the province -of Fokien the mountains are even more barren -than those of Quantung. On some of the hills on -the island of Amoy, the traveller may wander for -miles and scarcely see even a weed. On every side -there is nothing but masses of dark crumbling -granite, and red burnt-looking clay. This, however, -seems the northern boundary of the most barren -part of China. When we reach the river Min -near Foo-chow-foo, there is a great change visible -in the vegetation of the hills, caused, of course, by -the richer nature of the soil. This remark applies -to the northern portion of Fokien and to the whole -of the province of Chekiang. I have ascended hills -near the mouth of the Min at least 3000 feet above -the level of the sea, which were under cultivation -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span>to their summit. The soil here was composed of a -gravelly loam; and though far from rich, it contained -more vegetable matter or humus, and was also -much deeper. This addition of vegetable matter -rendered the soil sufficiently fertile to repay the -Chinese fanner for the labour expended in bringing -the crops to maturity. Some of the hills are of -course much more productive than others. The -tea districts, for example, both in the province of -Fokien and Chekiang, are not only more fertile, but -are very different from what they are generally -supposed to be. One of the most accredited accounts -of China gives the following analysis of the -soil of these districts:—"The tea soil of China consists -almost entirely of siliceous sand in a minute -state of division—84 per cent. of sand, a quantity of -carbonate of iron and alumina, <i>and only</i> 1 <i>per cent. -of vegetable matter</i>." Where or how this analysis -could be obtained, I have no means of knowing—most -probably from the black tea districts near -Canton; but it is certainly very far from being a -correct one if meant to apply to the rich soil of the -great tea districts.</p> - -<p>But even here, and over all the most fertile -mountain districts of Central China, it would be -ridiculous to assert, as some have done, that the -whole or even the greater part is under cultivation. -On the contrary by far the greater part lies in a -state of nature and has never been disturbed by the -hand of man. I am anxious to state this fact in -express terms, in order to set those right who have -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span>been led to believe that every inch of land in the -empire, however bleak and barren, is under cultivation, -having given way to Chinese industry and -skill! I myself, before I visited China, was under -the same impression; but the first glance at the -rushed mountainous shores soon convinced me of -my error. Unfortunately, our opinions of a distant -unknown country are apt to go to extremes, either -fancying it entirely barren, or else a paradise of -fertility.</p> - -<p>The <i>soil of the valleys</i> or plains varies quite as -much in different provinces as it does in the hills. -The level of these valleys or plains is generally very -low; in many instances below that of the rivers -and canals. In the south the soil consists of a -strong stiff clay mixed with a small portion of sand, -but containing scarcely any vegetable matter or -humus. This is its composition about Canton -and Macao, and in fact over all the provinces of -the south, unless perhaps in the vicinity of large -towns, where its natural character has been altered -to a certain extent by the influence of manure. -Where the hills lose their barren character, four -or five hundred miles to the northward from Hong-kong, -a visible change takes place also in the soil of -the valleys and plains. In the district of the Min, -for example, instead of being almost entirely composed -of strong stiff clay it is mixed with a considerable -portion of vegetable matter, and is an excellent -strong loam, not unlike that which we find -in some of our best wheat lands in England and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span>Scotland, and capable of producing excellent crops. -As a general rule it may be observed, that the -lower the valleys are, the more the soil approaches -in its nature to the stiff clay of the south, and <i>vice -versâ</i>. For instance, the Shanghae district is several -feet higher above the level of the rivers and canals -than that of Ning-po, and the soil of the latter consists -more of a stiff clay and has less vegetable -matter in its composition, and is far from being so -fertile as the cotton district of Shanghae.</p> - -<p>Rice being the chief article of food is, of course, -the staple production of the country, more particularly -in the south, where two crops of it can easily -be raised in the hot months, besides another crop -of some more hardy vegetables in winter.</p> - -<p>The ground is prepared in spring for the first -crop of rice, as soon as the winter green crops are -removed from the fields. The plough, which is -commonly drawn by a buffalo or bullock, is a rude -implement; but probably answers the purpose much -better than ours would, which has been found to -be too heavy and unmanageable for the Chinese.<a name="FNanchor_1_15" id="FNanchor_1_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_15" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> -As the land is always flooded with water before it -is ploughed, this operation may be described as -the turning up a layer of mud and water, six or eight -inches deep, which lies on a solid floor of hard stiff -clay. The plough never goes deeper than this mud -and water, and consequently the ploughman and his -bullock in wading through the field find a solid -footing at this depth below the surface. The water -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span>buffalo generally employed in the south, is well -adapted for this work, as he delights to wallow -amongst the mud, and is often found swimming and -amusing himself in the canals on the sides of the -rice fields. But it seems a most disagreeable and -unhealthy operation for the poor labourer, who -nevertheless goes along cheerful and happy. After -the plough comes the harrow; this is chiefly used -to break and pulverise the surface of the soil or to -bury the manure. Hence it has not long perpendicular -teeth like ours; but the labourer stands -upon the top of it, and presses it down upon the -muddy soil while it is drawn along. The object -of both plough and harrow is not only to loosen -the earth, but to mix up the whole until it forms a -puddle and its surface becomes smooth and soft. -In this condition it is ready to receive the young -rice plants.</p> - -<p>Previously to the preparation of the fields the -rice seed is sown thickly in small patches of highly -manured ground, and the young plants in these -seed-beds are ready for transplanting when the -fields are in a fit state to receive them. Sometimes -the Chinese steep the seeds in liquid manure before -they sow them; but although this practice is -common in the south, it is not general throughout -the empire.</p> - -<p>The seedling plants are carefully dug up from -the bed and removed to the fields. These fields -are now smooth and overflowed with water to the -depth of three inches. The plants are put in in -patches, each containing about a dozen plants, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span>in rows from ten to twelve inches apart each way. -The operation of planting is performed with astonishing -rapidity. A labourer takes a quantity of -plants under his left arm, and drops them in -bundles over the land about to be planted, as he -knows, almost to a plant, what number will be -required. These little bundles are then taken up, -and the proper number of plants selected and -plunged by the hand into the muddy soil. The -water, when the hand is drawn up, immediately -rushes into the hole, and carries with it a portion -of soil to cover the roots, and the seedlings are -thus planted and covered in without further -trouble.</p> - -<p>In the south the first crop is fit to cut by the -end of June or the beginning of July. Before it -is quite ripe, another crop of seedlings is raised -on the beds or corners of the fields, and is ready -for transplanting as soon as the ground has been -ploughed up and prepared for their reception. -This second crop is ready for cutting in November.</p> - -<p>In the latitude of Ning-po, 30° north, the -summers are too short to have the land cropped in -the same way in which it is done in the south. The -farmers here manage to have two crops of paddy in -the summer by planting the second crop two or three -weeks after the first, in alternate rows. The first -planting takes place about the middle of May, and -the crop is reaped in the beginning of August, at -which time the alternate rows are only about a foot -in height, and are still quite green. After the -early crop is removed, the ground is stirred up -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span>and manured, and the second crop having now -plenty of light and air, advances rapidly to maturity, -and is ready for the reaping-hook about -the middle of November.</p> - -<p>About one hundred miles further north, in the -Shanghae district, the summers are too short to -enable the husbandman to obtain a second crop of -rice, even upon the Ning-po plain, and he is -therefore obliged to content himself with one. -This is sown at the end of May, and reaped at -the beginning of October.</p> - -<p>A large quantity of rain always falls at the -change of the north-east monsoon in May. This is -of the utmost importance to the farmer, not only -as regards his rice crops, but also as to many other -operations at this season of the year. We are -accustomed to hear a great deal of the machine-like -regularity which pervades all the operations of the -Chinese; but a little investigation of the circumstances -in which they are placed—at least in so far -as agriculture is concerned—will convince us that -their practice is regulated, not so much by caprice -and those "Mede and Persian" laws, as by the laws -of nature herself, upon which the success of the -varied operations of agriculture mainly depend. -Thus the crops of rice and cotton are sown on the -low lands, and the sweet potatoes are planted on -the hills, year after year, exactly at the same time. -But this regularity is not the effect of prejudice, -nor in obedience to the imperial orders; it is -simply the result of experience which has taught -the farmer that this is the proper time for these -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span>operations, because there will then be a continuance -of frequent and copious showers, which will moisten -the earth and the air until such time as the -young rootlets have laid hold of the soil and are -capable of sending up sufficient nourishment to the -stems.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill12"></a> -<img src="images/ill12.jpg" width="450" height="320" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Water-wheel for Irrigation.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>During the growth of the rice, the fields are -always kept flooded when water can be obtained. -The terraces near the base of the hills are supplied -by the mountain streams, and the fields which are -above the level of any adjoining river or canal are -flooded by the celebrated water-wheel, which is in -use all over the country. These machines are of -three kinds. The principle in all of them is the -same, the only difference being in the mode of -applying the moving power; one is worked by the -hand, another by the feet, and the third by an -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span>animal of some kind, generally a buffalo or bullock. -The rice lands are kept flooded in this way until -the crops are nearly ripe, when the water is no -longer necessary. It is also necessary, or at least -advantageous, to go over the ground once or twice -during the summer, and stir the soil up well -amongst the roots, at the same time removing any -weeds which may have sprung up. If the weather -is wet, the fields retain the water for a considerable -time, and then it is not an uncommon sight to see -the natives wading nearly up to the knees in mud -and water, when they are gathering in the harvest.</p> - -<p>When ripe, the crops are cut with a small instrument, -not very unlike our own reaping-hook, and -are generally thrashed out at once in the fields -where they have grown. Sometimes, however, and -more particularly in the north, the paddy is tied -up in sheaves, and carried home before it is -thrashed; indeed every thing in the northern agriculture -of the Chinese has a great resemblance to -what is practised in Europe.</p> - -<p>The <i>terrace cultivation</i> of China has been noticed -by nearly all writers upon this country, and, like -most other subjects, it has been either much exaggerated -or undervalued. It appeared to me to -be carried to the greatest perfection on the hill -sides adjacent to the river Min near Foo-chow-foo; -at least I was more struck with it there than any -where else. On sailing up that beautiful river, -these terraces look like steps on the sides of the -mountains, one rising above another, until they -sometimes reach six or eight hundred feet above -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span>the level of the sea. When the rice and other -crops are young, these terraces are clothed in -luxuriant green, and look like a collection of gardens -among the rugged and barren mountains. The -terrace system is adopted by the Chinese, either for -the purpose of supplying the hill sides with water -where paddy is to be grown, or to prevent the -heavy rains from washing down the loose soil from -the roots of other vegetables. Hence these cuttings -are seen all over the sides of the hills, not exactly -level like the rice terraces, but level enough to -answer the purpose of checking the rains in their -descent down the mountain. For the same reason, -the sweet potato and some other crops which are -grown on the hills are always planted in ridges -which run cross-ways or horizontally; indeed, -were the ridges made in a different direction, the -heavy rains which fall in the early summer months -would carry both the loose soil and crops down -into the plains.</p> - -<p>Rice is grown on the lower terrace ground, and -a stream of water is always led from some ravine -and made to flow across the sides of the hills, until -it reaches the highest terrace, into which it flows -and floods the whole of the level space. When the -water rises three or four inches in height, which is -sufficiently high for the rice, it finds vent at an -opening made for the purpose in the bank, through -which it flows into the terrace below, which it -floods in the same manner, and so on to the lowest. -In this way the whole of the rice terraces are kept -continually flooded, until the stalks of the crops -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span>assume a yellow ripening hue when the water being -no longer required, it is turned back into its natural -channel, or led to a different part of the hill, for -the nourishment of other crops. These mountain -streams, which abound in all parts of the hilly districts, -are of the greatest importance to the farmer; -and as they generally spring from a high elevation -in the ravines, they can be conducted at pleasure -over all the lower parts of the hills. No operation -in agriculture gives him and his labourers more -pleasure than leading these streams of water from -one place to another and making them subservient -to their purposes. In my travels in the country the -inhabitants often called my attention to this branch -of their operations, and I pleased them much when -I expressed my admiration at the skill with which -they executed it. The practice is not confined to -the paddy fields; for I remember once, when superintending -the planting of some large trees and -shrubs in the garden of Messrs. Dent & Co. in -Hong-kong, after I had given them a large supply of -water at the time they were put into the ground, I -desired the gardener to repeat the dose next morning. -But, on the following day, when I returned to -the spot I was surprised to find a little stream divided -into many branches, and meandering amongst -the roots of the newly planted trees. As there -was no stream there before, I went up to examine -its source, and found that it had been led from a -neighbouring ravine; a work more easy than carrying -a large supply of water in buckets, and at -the same time more effectual.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span>Several other summer crops are cultivated in the -lowlands. In the southern provinces, for instance, -we find large quantities of the <i>Nelumbium speciosum</i> -grown for its roots, which are much esteemed; the -<i>Trapa bicornis</i>, the castoroil plant, <i>Scirpus tuberosus, -Convolvulus reptans</i>, and several other vegetables, -for which there is a great demand in all Chinese -towns. The sugar cane also is extensively grown -both in the provinces of Quantung and Fokien, and -probably in other parts of the empire.</p> - -<p>In the district of Kiangsoo my attention was -directed to a plant called <i>Tein-ching</i>, which is largely -cultivated by the inhabitants for the sake of its -blue dye. In the southern provinces a great deal -of indigo (<i>Indigofera</i>) is grown and manufactured, -in addition to a large quantity which is annually -imported from Manilla and the Straits. In the -north, however, the plant which we call indigo is -never met with, owing, I suppose, to the coldness -of the winters; but its place is supplied by the -<i>Tein-ching</i> (<i>Isatis indigotica</i>), the leaves of which -are prepared in the same manner as the common -indigo. The colour of the liquid at first is a kind -of greenish blue, but, after being well stirred up -and exposed to the air, it becomes much darker. I -suppose it is thickened afterwards by evaporation; -but this part of the process did not come under my -observation. I am very much inclined to believe -that this is the dye used to colour the green teas -which are manufactured in the north of China for -the English and American markets: this, however, -is only conjecture.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span><i>The summer productions</i> of the hilly country are, -of course, different from those of the plains. From -the province of Fokien northward to the great -valley of the Yang-tse-Kiang, the hills are amongst -the most fertile in China. They are frequently -terraced in the manner I have described, and their -staple productions, if we except the rice which is -grown on the lower terraces, are sweet potatoes -and earth-nuts. In the southern provinces, when -the winters are mild, the roots of the sweet potato -frequently remain in the ground all the winter. -In the north the cold is too severe, and consequently -the natives are obliged to dig up and protect -the roots. In April those roots which have been -saved for "seed" are planted thickly in beds near -the houses or in the corners of the fields. They -begin to push out their young shoots immediately, -and these are ready to be taken off by the beginning -of May. In the mean time the ground on the -hill sides has been prepared, and horizontal ridges -or drills formed about two feet apart. About the -10th or 12th of May these cuttings are taken off -and planted, and seem to grow as readily as couch -grass. It is astonishing how well they succeed, considering -the little care expended upon them; but -we must keep in mind that this is the commencement -of the rainy season at the change of the monsoon, -that the sky is generally cloudy, that scarcely -a day passes without frequent showers, and that -consequently the air is saturated with moisture. -The earth-nuts are grown most extensively in the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span>southern provinces, more particularly in Fokien; -while the sweet potatoes are better a little farther -north, where they form the chief hill crop.</p> - -<p>The <i>winter crops</i> in the neighbourhood of Macao -and Canton consist of large quantities of our European -vegetables, such as potatoes, peas, onions, -and cabbages, which are grown for the supply of -the Europeans who reside at Hong-kong or Canton: -our potatoes are generally planted here in October, -which is considered the best time to insure a good -crop; but as they always sell well in the markets, the -growers manage to keep up a succession during the -greater part of the year. Several varieties of the -cabbage tribe, which seem indigenous to China, are -grown extensively in the fields at this season both in -the south and north. These never produce a solid -heart like our cabbages, and are of no value when -imported to England; but the celebrated "<i>Pak-tsae</i>" -or white cabbage of Shantung and Peking, is a very -different plant; it is never grown in the south of -China, but is produced in the summer months in -the north. Large quantities of this delicious -vegetable are brought south every autumn, in the -junks which sail at the commencement of the -north-east monsoon in October.</p> - -<p>In the northern provinces the principal winter -productions are wheat, barley, peas, beans, the -cabbage oil plant, and various other vegetables of -lesser note. These crops are grown on the hills -as well as on the low lands, and on the ground -which produces sweet potatoes in summer. In the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span>Nanking district they fire generally sown or planted -in October upon those lands which produce rice or -cotton during the summer months. Frequently -the sowing takes place before the cotton or the dry -summer crops have been removed from the ground, -and the young plants are seen coming up amongst -these crops, and ready to take their place when -they are removed. This is done in order to give a -longer season for the ripening of the different crops, -and is very generally practised in the northern districts. -The wheat and barley ripen in Fokien in -April, and in the neighbourhood of Shanghae about -the middle of May. About Chinchew and Amoy -the wheat crops are so poor that the labourers pull -them up by the hand, in the same manner as we -do in our moorlands in England and Scotland. -They are of course much better in the rich district -of Shanghae, but the varieties of both wheat and -barley are far inferior to ours; and as the Chinese -sow them too thickly, they are generally much -drawn, and the heads and corn small. The beans -and peas seem to be exactly the same as our field -kinds, and are certainly indigenous to the northern -parts of China. Very large quantities of the cabbage -tribe are cultivated for the sake of the oil -which is extracted from their seeds. They are -planted out in the fields in autumn, and their seeds -are ripe in April and May, in time to be removed -from the land before the rice crops. It must not -be supposed, however, that the whole of the land is -regularly cropt in this manner, and that, as some -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span>writers inform us, it never for a moment lies idle, -for such is not the case.</p> - -<p>In the island of Chusan, and over all the rice -country of Chekiang and Keangsoo, there are two -plants cultivated in the winter months, almost exclusively -for manure: the one is a species of <i>Coronilla</i>; -the other is <i>Trefoil</i>, or clover. Large ridges, -not unlike those on which gardeners grow celery, -are thrown up on the wet rice fields in the autumn, -and the seeds of the plants are dropt in, in patches -at five inches apart, on the surface of the ridges. -In a few days germination commences, and long -before the winter is past the tops of the ridges are -covered with luxuriant herbage. This goes on -growing until April, when it is necessary to prepare -the ground for the rice. The ridges are then -levelled, and the manure plants are scattered in a -fresh state over the surface of the ground. The -fields are flooded, and the plough and harrow are -employed to turn up and pulverise the soil. The -manure, thus scattered over the ground and half-buried -amongst mud and water, begins to decay -immediately, and gives out a most disagreeable -putrid smell. This mode of manuring is generally -adopted in all the rice lands in this part of -China, and the young paddy doubtless derives -strong nourishment from the ammonia given out in -the decomposition of this fresh manure.</p> - -<p>Fire-wood is so scarce in the country that a great -portion of the straw, cotton stalks, and grass, which -would go to manure the fields, is used for firing, -and, therefore, the plan of growing manure for the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>land is forced upon the farmers by necessity. The -plan of using manure in a fresh state, instead of -allowing it first to decay, has doubtless been found -from long experience to be the best for the young -paddy. The Chinese farmer is not a chemist; he -knows little or nothing of vegetable physiology, but -his forefathers have hit accidentally upon certain -systems which are found in practice to succeed, and -to these he himself adheres, and hands them down -unchanged to his children.</p> - -<p>When the first crop of rice is cut, the second, -which has been planted in the alternate rows, is -left to grow and ripen in the autumn; the ground -is stirred up, and the stubble and part of the straw -of the first crop is immediately worked up with the -mud and water between the rows: this decays in -the same manner as the trefoil in spring, and affords -manure to the second crop. Prawns and fish -of various kinds are frequently used for the same -purpose and in the same way.</p> - -<p>Burnt earth mixed with decomposed vegetable -matter is another highly esteemed manure, and is -common in all the agricultural districts. During the -summer months all sorts of vegetable rubbish are -collected in heaps by the road-sides, and mixed with -straw, grass, parings of turf, &c., which are set on -fire and burn slowly for several days, until all the -rank vegetable matter is decomposed, and the whole -reduced to a rich black earth. It is then turned -over several times, when it presents the same appearance -as the vegetable mould used in gardens -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span>in England. This manure is not scattered over the -land, but reserved for covering the seeds, and is -applied in the following manner. When the seed -time arrives, one man makes the holes, another -follows and drops in the seeds, and a third puts a -handful of this black earth on the top of them. -Being principally vegetable matter, it keeps the -seeds loose and moist during the period of germination, -and afterwards affords them nourishment. -This manure is useful mechanically as well as -chemically in a stiff soil, like that of the low lands -of China, where the seeds are apt to be injured -in the process of germination. The young crop -thus planted acquires a vigour in its first growth, -which enables it to assimilate the matter which -forms the strong stiff soil, and to strike its roots -firmly into it.</p> - -<p>What is commonly known by the name of oil-cake, -is broken up and used in the same manner as -the vegetable earth, and is also scattered broadcast -over the land. The oil-cake is the remains or refuse -of the seeds of several different plants, such -as the tallow tree, various kinds of beans, and the -cabbage formerly mentioned. There is a great demand -for this manure in all parts of the country, -and it forms a very considerable branch of trade -both by sea and land. Bones, shells, old lime, soot, -ashes, and all kinds of rubbish, are also eagerly -bought up by the farmer for the purpose of manure.</p> - -<p>In the Fa-tee gardens near Canton the proprietors -have a curious kind of rich mud, which they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>cut up into small square bits, and sell at a very -high price for the growing of plants in pots. This -is obtained chiefly from the ponds and lakes in the -vicinity, where the <i>Nelumbium speciosum</i> grows. -This soil is so much esteemed, that the price for -the best kind is 1 dollar for 3 peculs<a name="FNanchor_2_16" id="FNanchor_2_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_16" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>, and for the -second 1 dollar for 4 peculs. The inferior sort has -been frequently sent to England in plant cases -from Canton.</p> - -<p>For crops in a vigorous growing state no kind of -manure is so eagerly sought after as night soil, and -every traveller in China has remarked the large -cisterns or earthen tubs which are placed in the -most conspicuous and convenient situation for the -reception of this kind of manure. What would be -considered an intolerable nuisance in every civilised -town in Europe, is here looked upon by all classes, -rich and poor, with the utmost complacency; and I -am convinced that nothing would astonish a Chinaman -more, than hearing any one complain of the -stench which is continually rising from these manure -tanks. Almost every Chinese town is placed on the -banks of a river or canal, and the water is generally -led not only round the walls, thus forming a kind of -moat, but also through many parts of the city. Long -clumsy boats are placed in different departments of -the town, into which the night soil and urine are -emptied and conveyed from thence into the country. -The fields in the neighbourhood of cities are generally -supplied with it by coolies, who go every -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span>morning to market loaded with the produce of -their firms. Each brings home two buckets of -this manure, slung at the ends of his bamboo -pole. In England it is generally supposed that the -Chinese carry the night soil and urine to these -tanks, and leave it there to undergo fermentation, -before they apply it to the land. This, however, -is not the case; at least, not generally. In the -fertile agricultural districts in the north, I have -observed that the greater part of this stimulant is -used in a fresh state, being of course sufficiently -diluted with water before it is applied to the crops. -And there can be little doubt that in this the -Chinese are perfectly right, as the manure must be -much more efficient in this state than when a great -portion of its ammonia has passed off into the air. -The Chinese, as far as I could learn, have no mode -of disinfecting their manure, but they seem to be -perfectly aware, that if allowed free access to the -air a great loss must result, owing to the gases -which are given out and dissipated. Without waiting, -then, for fermentation or putrefaction, this -manure is at once applied to the growing crops. -On the afternoons, or on cloudy days, the labourers -are seen carrying water from the nearest pond or -canal to the manure tank, for the purpose of -diluting its contents. This being done, they fill -their buckets, attaching one to each end of their -bamboo in the usual way, and carry them off to -their destination. When this is reached, each man -takes a small wooden ladle having a long bamboo -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span>handle, and with this he scatters the liquid over the -growing crop. A strong stimulant like this would -probably in other circumstances have an injurious -effect; but, by using it only when the crops -are young and luxuriant, they assimilate its gases, -and a most marked effect is produced upon -their growth and productiveness. This kind of -liquid manure is generally applied to wheat, barley, -and all the cabbage tribe, and other garden vegetables; -but not to rice, which is always flooded -during its growth.</p> - -<p>This manure is sometimes used after putrefaction -and fermentation have taken place, and even in -this state it is very efficient. In the gardens near -Canton it is often dried and mixed with the soil -taken from the bottom of the Lotus ponds, and -used for growing plants in pots, or for enriching -any particular tree which may be a favourite in -the garden.</p> - -<p>Although the land is sometimes allowed to lie -idle for some months, yet there is no regular -system of fallowing, nor is the rotation of crops -much known or practised. Indeed, as regards -the low lands, the soil being a kind of stiff, strong -clay, capable of yielding many crops of rice in -succession, without being in any way burthened -or impoverished, no such mode of cultivation is -necessary.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"> -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_15" id="Footnote_1_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_15"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Several of our ploughs have been sent out to China, and -offered to the native farmers <i>gratis</i>, but they will not use them.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_16" id="Footnote_2_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_16"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> A Chinese pecul is equal to 133¼ lbs.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XVII.</h3> - -<p>RETURN TO CHUSAN.—ITS SUPPOSED UNHEALTHINESS.—MORTALITY -AMONGST THE QUEEN'S TROOPS WHEN FIRST STATIONED -THERE.—SUBSEQUENT SALUBRITY.—ITS ADVANTAGES OVER -HONG-KONG AS A BRITISH SETTLEMENT.—NEW PLANTS FOUND -ON THE ISLAND.—NINGPO.—GARDENS OF THE MANDARINS.—MANNERS -OF CHINESE LADIES.—SAIL FOR HONG-KONG.—TOMBS -OF THE CHINESE.—SITUATIONS SUPPOSED TO BE THE -BEST.—SOOTHSAYERS EMPLOYED.—THEIR METHODS OF -WORKING ON THE MINDS OF THE PEOPLE.—MR. LAY CONSULTED -AS TO THE BEST SITE FOR A GRAVE.—INSCRIPTIONS -ON THE TOMBS.—PERIODICAL VISITS TO THEM BY RELATIVES.—DIFFERENT -MODES OF INTERMENT.—COFFINS EXPOSED IN -THE FIELDS.—KEPT IN HOUSES.—TOMB NEAR SUNG-KIANG-FOO.—FAVOURITE -FLOWERS FOR PLANTING ON THE GRAVES.</p> - -<p class="p2">My first visit to Chusan in 1843 was during the -autumn and winter, but in 1844 I had an opportunity -of exploring this beautiful island, at -intervals, from the commencement of spring, until -the close of the season. At this time the first -impression regarding the unhealthiness of the -climate had been entirely removed, and the island -was looked upon as the most healthy in the Chinese -seas.</p> - -<p>It will be recollected that when the island was -first occupied by our troops, the mortality was so -great that the place was pronounced by every one -to be the most unhealthy in China. Many a brave -soldier fell a victim to the malignant fever which -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span>prevailed at the time. No regiment suffered more -than Her Majesty's 26th, the "Cameronians," who -were encamped on a green hill which overlooked -the city, and which certainly appeared to be the -most healthy spot which could have been selected -for the purpose. That place still bears the name -of the "Cameronian Hill," and is now thickly -strewed with the graves of our countrymen.</p> - -<p>It soon became evident, that this great mortality -proceeded from other causes than the paddy fields -which surrounded the city of Tinghae. Invalids -from Hong-kong and Amoy were sent here to -recover their health; and the difference in the -appearance of the troops stationed in Chusan, from -those in Hong-kong, was most marked. Dr. Maxwell -of the Madras army, who was a most excellent -judge in such matters, has often expressed his -opinion, that, with good medical skill and ordinary -care, this beautiful island might have been rendered -one of the most healthy stations for our troops in -the East. Indeed, every one now seemed to regret -that we had not secured Chusan as a part of the -British dominions for the protection of our trade -in China, instead of the barren and unhealthy -island of Hong-kong; and some even went so far -as to recommend that means should still be taken -by our government to accomplish this desirable -end. The time, however, for doing this had gone -by, and I believe that every right-thinking person -would have seen with regret any power exercised -by a great and exalted nation like England to infringe -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span>a solemn treaty "which had been entered into -with a nation so utterly powerless as the Chinese; -and most assuredly nothing less than this—no negotiations -or promises—would have induced the -Chinese to give up an island like Chusan, which -commands the central and most important parts of -their empire. That we committed a blunder and -made a bad bargain is quite certain, but having -done so, we must abide by the consequences. Had -we retained Chusan, it would not only have been a -healthy place for our troops and merchants, but it -would also have proved a safeguard to our trade -in the north, which must ultimately become of -greater importance than that at Canton. Moreover, -we should have been in a central position as -regards a large and important part of the world, -which must sooner or later open its ports to our -commerce. I allude of course to Japan and Corea, -both of which are only a few days' sail from -Chusan, and are still in a great measure sealed -countries to Europeans. These regrets, however, -are vain.</p> - -<p>Chusan in spring is one of the most beautiful -islands in the world. It reminds the Englishman -of his own native land. In the mornings the grass -sparkles with dew, the air is cool and refreshing, -the birds are singing in every bush, and flowers -are hanging in graceful festoons from the trees and -hedges.</p> - -<p>The new plants of the island, some of which I -had discovered in the preceding autumn, I now saw -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span>in flower for the first time. Early in spring the -hill sides were covered with a beautiful Daphne -with lilac flowers (<i>Daphne Fortuni</i> Lindl.); <i>Azalea -ovata</i> Lindl., certainly one of the finest and most -distinct plants of this kind which I have introduced, -also grows wild on the hills, and was in full bloom at -this period. A fine new Buddlea (<i>B. Bindleyana</i>) -had a most graceful appearance, as its long spikes of -purple flowers hung in profusion from the hedges on -the hill sides, often side by side with the well-known -<i>Glycine sinensis</i>. Another plant, certainly one of -the most beautiful shrubs of northern China, the -<i>Weigela rosea</i>, was first discovered in the garden of a -Chinese mandarin near the city of Tinghae on this -island. This spring, it was loaded with its noble -rose-coloured flowers, and was the admiration of all -who saw it, both English and Chinese. I have -great pleasure in saying that all these plants and -many others, natives of Chusan, are now growing in -our gardens in England.</p> - -<p>Ningpo is about 40 miles west from Chusan, and -is situated on the mainland. My visits to it at different -times during this summer were attended with -much less difficulty than in the preceding autumn. -I was now beginning to speak a little Chinese, and -was perfectly acquainted with the town, and the -whole of the places where the different mandarins' -gardens and nurseries were situated. The mandarins -were particularly inquisitive at this time about -every thing which related to the movements of the -English, or other foreigners, who were likely to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span>establish themselves at their port; and I soon perceived -that, as we were able to keep up a conversation -together in Chinese, my visits were very agreeable -to them. The nurserymen, too, having found -out that my money was as valuable to them as that -which they received from their own countrymen, -threw aside their shyness, and were all anxiety to -sell me any plants I wanted.</p> - -<p>The gardens of the mandarins were extremely -gay, particularly during the early months of the -year; and, what was of more importance to me, contained -a number of new plants of great beauty and -interest. On entering one of the gardens on a fine -morning in May, I was struck with a mass of yellow -flowers which completely covered a distant part -of the wall. The colour was not a common yellow, -but had something of buff in it, which gave the -flowers a striking and uncommon appearance. I -immediately ran up to the place, and, to my surprise -and delight, found that it was a most beautiful <i>new -double yellow climbing rose</i>. I have no doubt, from -what I afterwards learned, that this rose is from -the more northern districts of the empire, and will -prove perfectly hardy in Europe. Another rose, -which the Chinese call the "<i>five coloured,</i>" was also -found in one of these gardens at this time. It belongs -to the section commonly called China roses in -this country, but grows in a very strange and beautiful -manner. Sometimes it produces self-coloured -blooms—being either red or French white, and -frequently having flowers of both on one plant at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span>the same time—while at other times the flowers -are striped with the two colours. This will also -be as hardy as our common China rose. <i>Glycine -sinensi</i>s is often grown on a flat trellis in front of -the summer-house, or forms a kind of portico, which -affords a pleasing shade. Entwined with one of -these trees, I found another variety, having very -long racemes of pure white flowers, which contrasted -well with the light blue of the other. I obtained -permission from the old Chinese gentleman -to whom it belonged (my old friend Dr. Chang) to -make some layers of this fine plant, and I am happy -to say that one of these is now alive in the garden -at Chiswick.</p> - -<p>The Horticultural Society having sent me out -some small optical instruments to be given as -presents, I presented some of them to the Doctor, -with which he was much pleased, and offered in -return to let me have whatever cuttings or plants -from his garden I might wish to possess.</p> - -<p>We are generally led to believe that ladies of rank -in this country are never seen by visitors. It is -quite true that Chinese custom, in this respect, -differs entirely from ours; and that the females here, -like those of most half civilised or barbarous nations, -are kept in the back ground, and are not considered -as on an equality with their husbands. For example, -they do not sit at the same table; when a -"sing-song" or theatrical performance is got up, -they are put in a place out of view, where they can -see all that is going on and yet remain unseen. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span>But for all this they are not entirely secluded from -society; at least they used frequently to honour me -with their presence, and crowd round me with the -greatest curiosity. At first they used to be extremely -shy, and only took sly peeps at me from -behind doors and through windows; by and by, -however, their strong curiosity conquered their -bashfulness, and then they used to stand and look -on very composedly. They generally, however, -kept at a little distance, and whenever a movement -was made towards where they stood, they pretended -to be vastly frightened, and ran away; but -they soon came back again.</p> - -<p>To Mr. Mackenzie, one of our merchants at -Ningpo, and also to Mr. Thom, Her Majesty's -consul, I was greatly indebted for their kindness -and hospitality. They did every thing in their -power to forward my views, and to both these gentlemen -I take this opportunity of rendering my best -thanks.</p> - -<p>After having spent the summer in the districts -of Ningpo, Chusan, and Shanghae, I returned to -the last-mentioned place, where my plants were all -collected, intending immediately to sail for Hong-kong, -and send a portion of them home to England; -but the exposure to the sun during the summer -was now beginning to affect my health, and when -I landed at Shanghae I was laid up with a severe -attack of fever. Providentially this happened when -I was amongst my English friends, and, as I had -the means of procuring excellent medical advice, I -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span>recovered in the course of a fortnight, and was -able to proceed to sea, where the change of air -completed my cure. I reached Hong-kong in November, -and forthwith made preparations for sending -my collections home in several vessels, which -were at anchor in the bay at this time.</p> - -<p>During the summer which had now passed by, I -had had frequent opportunities of inspecting the -tombs of the Chinese both in the northern and -southern districts. In the south, the natives form -no regular cemeteries or churchyards, as we do in -Europe, but the tombs of the dead are scattered all -over the sides of the hills, the most pleasant situations -being generally selected. The more wealthy -individuals often convey their dead a considerable -distance, and employ a kind of fortune-teller, whose -duty it is to find out the most appropriate resting-place. -This man goes with the corpse to the place -appointed, and of course pretends to be very wise -in the selection of the spot, as well as in the choice -of the soil with which the ashes of the dead are to -mingle in after years; and upon trial, should the -particular earth appear unsuitable, he immediately -orders the procession off to some other place in the -neighbourhood, where he expects to be more successful. -I believe many of the Chinese have this important -point settled before they die; for one day -when one of our principal merchants went to call -on old Howqua, the late Hong merchant at Canton, -a tray was brought into the room with several kinds -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span>of earth upon it, which the old man examined with -great care, and then fixed on the one in which he -wished to be buried.</p> - -<p>A situation on the hill side is also considered of -great importance, especially if it commands a view -of a beautiful bay or lake. But I believe that of -all places the one most coveted is where a winding -stream, in its course, passes and then returns again -to the foot of the hill where the grave is to be -made. The director of the ceremonies, with a -compass in his hand, settles the direction in which -the body is to lie, which is another point of great -importance. An intelligent Chinese, with whom I -was acquainted, informed me that this fortune-teller -of the dead is often very eloquent in his descriptions -of the future happiness of those who -obey his directions; he informs them that they or -their children, or some one in whom they are much -interested, shall enjoy riches and honours in after -life, as a reward for the attention and respect they -have paid to the remains of their fathers; that as -the stream which they then behold when standing -around their father's grave flows and returns again -in its windings, so shall their path through life be -smooth and pleasant until they sink into the tomb -hoary with years, respected, beloved, and mourned -by their children.</p> - -<p>These men are generally great rogues, and play -upon the prejudices of the people. It frequently -happens, that after a corpse has been interred for -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span>some time, they call upon the relatives, and inform -them, that for some cause which they affect to explain, -it is absolutely necessary to remove and re-inter -it. Should the relations object to this, the -answer is, "Very well, I don't care, but your -children and relations will also be regardless of -your remains when you die, and you will be miserable -in your graves." The feelings of the poor deluded -people are thus wrought upon, and a further -sum of money is extracted for finding a more suitable -grave.</p> - -<p>The late Mr. Lay, during one of his rambles -amongst the hills on the banks of the river Min, was -present at one of these ceremonies, and the relatives -of the deceased crowded round him and consulted -him as to the site of the grave, under the impression -that he was well versed in such matters. He -remarks in his journal, that "much good or much -evil is thought to betide the survivors from a right -or wrong position. Keangse practitioners in this -'<i>te-le</i>' and '<i>fung shwuy,</i>' or soothsaying from -the influence of the earth's local modalities, get -large moneys by the trade; but as they do not -agree amongst themselves, the people are fain to ask -counsel of a stranger."</p> - -<p>In my travels in the south of China I often came -upon graves in the most retired places amongst the -hills; they were all more or less of the same form, -namely, a half circle cut out of the hill side, having -the body interred behind it. Sometimes, indeed -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span>generally, there were several of these half-circles -with a succession of terraces in front of the grave; -and in the burying-places of the more wealthy, the -semi-circles were built of brick or stone, and on a -more extensive scale. In the centre of the semi-circle, -and of course near the body, the grave stone -is placed with its inscription. M. Callery, an excellent -Chinese scholar, informed me that these inscriptions -are always of the most simple kind, merely stating -the name of the deceased, that he died in such -a dynasty, in such a year. This is the plain and -unflattering tale which the Chinese tombstone tells. -In some instances—I cannot tell if in all—after -the body has decayed, the bones are dug up, and -carefully put into earthenware vessels, which are -then placed on the hill side above ground. These, -as well as the graves, are visited at stated times by -the relatives. They go first to the grave of the -patriarch, or father of the tribe, and then to those -of the other members of the family in rotation, -where they perform their devotions, and offer incense. -They afterwards dine together when the -ceremonies are over.</p> - -<p>I was once or twice in the wild mountain districts -in the interior, at the time when the natives visited -the tombs. Even the most retired parts had their -visitors, and it was both pleasing and affecting to -see the little groups assembled round the graves, -paying the tribute of affection to those whose -memory they revered and loved. The widow was -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span>seen kneeling by the grave of her lost husband; -children, often very young, shedding tears of sorrow -for a father or mother; and, sometimes, an old -man whose hair was white with age, was there -mourning the loss of those whom he had looked to -as the support of his declining years. All were -cutting the long grass and weeds which were -growing round the tombs, and planting their favourite -flowers to bloom and to decorate them.</p> - -<p>Near Amoy, this scattered mode of interring the -dead has been departed from, and perhaps necessarily, -in consequence of the large population; in the -country, however, I sometimes found tombs in retired -and inaccessible parts of the hills here, as well -as in the more southern provinces; but these were -evidently the property of the wealthy inhabitants.</p> - -<p>As the traveller proceeds northward, the circular -form of the tombs is less common and they become -more varied in their appearance. In Chusan, -Ningpo, and various other places in that district, a -great number of the coffins are placed on the surface -of the ground and merely thatched over with -straw. I met with these coffins in all sorts of -places,—on the sides of the public highway—on -the banks of the rivers and canals—and in woods -and other retired parts of the country. Sometimes -the thatch was completely off, the wood rotten, and -the remains of the Chinamen of former days exposed -to view. On one hill side on the island of -Chusan, skulls and bones are lying about in all -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span>directions, and more than once when wandering -through the long brushwood in this place, I have -been entangled by getting my feet through the lid -of a coffin.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill13"></a> -<img src="images/ill13.jpg" width="450" height="305" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Tombs on the Island of Chusan.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>I believe that the wealthy in these districts generally -bury their dead, and some of them build very -chaste and beautiful tombs. There are three or -four very fine ones in the island of Chusan, where -the paving in front of the mound which contains -the body is beautiful, and the carving elaborate; -the whole of the stone-work is square, instead of -circular as in the tombs in the south of China. -Here, as at home—and I believe in every part of -the world—trees of the pine tribe are generally -planted in the burying-grounds. Lord Jocelyn, in -his "Campaign in China," mentions such places in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span>the following beautiful and appropriate language:—"Here -and there, as if dropped at random upon -the sides of the hills, were clumps of pine trees, -and peeping through their thick foliage, the roofs of -houses and temples diversified the scene. Amongst -many of the beautiful groves of trees which here -invite the wanderer to repose, spots are selected as -the resting-places of mortality; and gazing on -those tranquil scenes, where the sweet clematis and -fragrant flowers help to decorate the last home of -man, the most careless eye cannot fail to mark the -beauties of the grave."</p> - -<p>In the Shanghae district I have frequently visited -large houses which seem to have been built by the -rich expressly as mausoleums. In these houses I -generally found a coffin in one of the principal -rooms, and an altar, with all the trappings of idolatry, -where incense on high days is burned to the -memory of the deceased, and various other ceremonies -are gone through by the relatives. These -houses or temples are generally surrounded by a -pine wood, and sometimes the body is buried out of -doors—the altar and records only being kept in -the temple, where a servant with his family is -always placed to look after them.</p> - -<p>When the English first established themselves at -Shanghae, some of them had thoughts of taking -houses in the country that their families might enjoy -retirement and fresh air. One day towards the -end of 1843, I accompanied a gentleman of my acquaintance -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span>on an errand of this kind. When we -had proceeded about six or eight miles from Shanghae, -we observed a good-looking house in a wood -hard by, and determined to pay it a visit and see -whether the occupant would be inclined to let it. -As we drew near, all was still and quiet; not even -our old enemies, the dogs, appeared to dispute our -approach. When the Chinese,—who always followed -us in considerable numbers wherever we -went—saw us approaching the house, they stood -still at a little distance, watching our proceedings -with a great degree of interest. We knocked at -the door of the mansion, and then stood at one side -so that the porter might not see that his visitors -were the <i>Hong-mou-jins</i>, or red-haired race, as -they are pleased to call the English; for we well -knew that if we were seen, the door would not be -opened. In a few seconds we heard the sounds of -feet, and then a voice summoned us to know our -business. We mumbled something in Chinese, and -the poor man, quite unconscious of his danger, -threw open the door. I shall never forget the look -of mingled fear and astonishment which he gave us -as we quietly walked into the court; at the same -time the group of natives outside were indulging in -hearty laughter at the way in which he had been -entrapped.</p> - -<p>The court-yard, where we now were, was neatly -paved, and the whole of the house appeared to be -in excellent repair. As we were led from room to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span>room by our terrified guide, every thing appeared -quite suitable for a country residence, at least, as -good as one could expect in such an out-of-the-way -place, and my friend remarked that it was the best he -had yet seen, and that he should certainly make an -effort to get possession of it. At last we came to -what appeared the principal room: "Ah, this shall -be my drawing-room," said my companion, "but -what is that?" added he in the same breath. I -looked in the direction in which he pointed, and a -large massive coffin met my eye. We then discovered -that we were in one of those places set -apart for the remains of the dead.</p> - -<p>During one of my journeys in the interior, I met -with a very curious tomb near the town of Sung-kiang-foo. -It was placed on the side of a hill, in a -wood, and evidently belonged to some very wealthy -or important personage of that city. From the -base of the hill to where the tomb stood about -halfway up—the visitor ascended by abroad flight -of steps, on each side of which were placed a number -of figures carved in stone. As far as I can recollect, -the following was the order in which the -figures were placed; first, a pair of goats or sheep, -one on each side; second, two dogs; third, two cats; -fourth, two horses saddled and bridled; and fifth, -two most gigantic priests; the effect of the whole -being most strange and imposing. There is another -tomb of the same description near Ningpo, but on -a much smaller scale.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span>The flowers which the Chinese plant on or -among the tombs are simple and beautiful in their -kind. No expensive camellias, moutans, or other -of the finer ornaments of the garden are chosen for -this purpose. Sometimes the conical mound of -earth,—when the grave is of this kind,—is crowned -with a large plant of fine, tall, waving grass; at -Ningpo wild roses are planted, which soon spread -themselves over the grave, and, when their flowers -expand in spring, cover it with a sheet of pure -white. At Shanghae a pretty bulbous plant, a -species of <i>Lycoris</i>, covers the graves in autumn -with masses of brilliant purple. When I first discovered -the <i>Anemone Japonica</i>, it was in full flower -amongst the graves of the natives, which are round -the ramparts of Shanghae; it blooms in November, -when other flowers have gone by, and is a most appropriate -ornament to the last resting-places of the -dead.</p> - -<p>The poor, as well as the rich, often keep their -dead in their dwelling-houses for a long time; I -should imagine, from the numerous coffins which I -met with in such circumstances, that many are thus -kept for years. The coffins are remarkably thick -and strong, and the joints so carefully cemented -that no unpleasant smell is emitted during the decay -of the body.</p> - -<p>Much of the respect which is paid by the Chinese -to the memory of their deceased relatives, may -doubtless be a mere matter of form, sanctioned and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span>rendered necessary by the custom of ages, but I am -inclined to think that a considerable portion springs -from a higher and purer source, and I have no -doubt that when the Chinese periodically visit the -tombs of their fathers to worship and pay respect -to their memory, they indulge in the pleasing reflection, -that when they themselves are no more, -their graves will not be neglected or forgotten—but -will also be visited by their children and grand-children, -in whose hearts and affections they will -live for many, many years after their bodies have -mouldered into dust.</p> - - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill14"></a> -<img src="images/ill14.jpg" width="450" height="307" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Tomb of a Mandarin's Wife.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XVIII.</h3> - -<p>PLANTS SHIPPED FOR ENGLAND.—SAIL FOR MANILA.—NATURAL -PRODUCTIONS AND EXPORTS.—PASSPORT ANNOYANCES.—THE -INTERIOR OF LUZON—ITS LAGUNA.—EARLY MORNING IN THE -PHILIPPINES.—VALUABLE PLANTS PROCURED.—THE "QUEEN -OF ORCHIDS."—NATURAL HABITS OF AIR-PLANTS.—LAWLESS -BANDITTI OF THE INTERIOR.—A FALSE ALARM.—MONKEYS -MORE HARMLESS THAN MEN.—A NIGHT AT DOLORES WITH -THE PADRE.—VOLCANOES IN THE PHILIPPINES.—GENERAL -APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.—LEECHES NOT VERY AGREEABLE -COMPANIONS.—RETURN TO MANILA AND SHIP PLANTS -FOR ENGLAND.—SAIL FOR THE NORTH OF CHINA.—"A MAN -OVERBOARD"—HIS RECOVERY BY A GALLANT BOAT'S CREW.—ARRIVE -IN THE NORTH.</p> - -<p class="p2">The collections of plants and seeds which I had -made during the summer and autumn of 1844 arrived -in safety at Hong-kong, and I lost no time in -shipping them for England. All the living objects -were planted as usual in "Ward's cases," well guarded -with iron bars and placed upon the poops of the -largest vessels I could find then at anchor in the -bay. I always took care to divide my collections -into three or four parts for the purpose of sending -them by different ships, so that if any thing happened -to one portion, the others had a chance of -reaching England in safety. The last shipment at -this time was made on the 31st of December. As -it was then winter in the northern provinces, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span>as nothing could be done in the south, I determined -to go over to the Philippine Islands for a few weeks, -and accordingly sailed for Manila in the beginning -of January, 1845.</p> - -<p>The voyage from Hong-kong to Manila at this -season is generally made in six or eight days, as the -monsoon is fair. I need not give any description -of the town, which is well known as being the chief -Spanish settlement in the Philippines. The inhabitants -are principally Spaniards, Indians, Chinese, -and there are a few English mercantile establishments. -The chief productions and exports -are sugar, coffee, rice, cheroots, and indigo. The -beautiful cloth generally known by the name of -<i>Pinia</i>, which is made from the fibre of the pine-apple -plant, is manufactured and embroidered by the -natives and is sold in the shops. A kind of hemp, -the produce of a species of <i>Musa</i>, is also made into -ropes and cables; it is highly prized and in much demand -amongst the shipping in the East. The cigar -manufactory, a government monopoly, is one of the -largest establishments in the town; almost the -whole of the labour in it is performed by women and -girls. When I landed, it happened to be the hour -when the work people were coming out of the factory -and the streets were crowded with females. As I -was not aware of the circumstance, I began to think -that the women must form the chief part of the -population.</p> - -<p>As I had no object in remaining in the town, I applied -to the authorities for a passport to enable me -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span>to proceed at once into the interior of the island. -The traveller, if he is not well acquainted with the -customs of the place, is exposed to much annoyance -from the Spanish regulations regarding passports. -Some new regulations had been established just before -my arrival, and I found that I could not land -without either having a passport, or getting some -well-known merchant to become surety for my conduct. -Having landed, a second passport was necessary -to enable me to remain on the island, another -before I could go into the interior, and a fourth when -I wished to leave the country. These passports -had to be signed by different individuals, and at -different offices, and if the slightest informality occurred, -the party was turned back or the vessel detained. -I was much indebted to Messrs. Butler, -and Messrs. Holliday, Wise & Co., English merchants -at Manila, who rendered me every assistance -in their power.</p> - -<p>Having at length got over these difficulties and -engaged some guides and servants, our baggage -was put into a Banca or boat, and we started for -the Laguna, a large lake in the interior, and the -source of the river on which the town of Manila -stands. We had to cross the lake; and we were -strongly advised to do so at night, as it is generally -smooth at this time. We soon perceived the -value of this advice. The Bancas are built long -and narrow for swiftness, as they have often to -make way against a rapid current, which flows -down the river. Out-riggers are fixed to the sides -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span>of the boats, to enable the Indians to run out and -balance them when the wind comes down in strong -puffs, and when without these they would be often -thrown on their beam ends and capsized.</p> - -<p>When I awoke in the morning we were half-way -across the lake, and day was just dawning. Those -who have never been in eastern tropical countries -can form no idea of the beauty and freshness of -early morning in the Philippines. The broad -sheet of water through which we were swiftly -passing was smooth as glass, and shone like a mirror; -there was not a breath of air to disturb it. -The shores of the lake were rich in vegetation; -trees and bushes dipping their luxuriant branches -into the water, and crowning the summit of every -hill. In this beautiful region winter is unknown, for -here, "the trees ever blossom, the beams ever shine."</p> - -<p>As soon as the sun began to appear above the -horizon, the whole surface of the lake was put in -motion by the breeze which then began to blow, -and which gradually increased until it became a -pretty strong gale. Our sail was close reefed, and -all the crew except the man at the helm, stood on -the out-riggers to balance the boat, walking out -or in as the wind was more or less powerful. In -less than half an hour the lake was covered with -waves rolling like those of the sea. Every now -and then we took one on board, and were soon, as -well as our beds and baggage, completely drenched -with water. Luckily we were near our destination -on the opposite shore, where we soon arrived in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span>safety. I counsel all travellers to beware of crossing -the Laguna; by day and I took good care to -avoid doing so on my return.</p> - -<p>Having landed I made the best of my way to -the farm of Don Inego Gonzales de Azaola, whom -I had met in Manila, and who had kindly offered -me the use of his house in the interior. My chief -object in visiting this part of the country was to -procure, if possible, a supply of the beautiful orchid -(<i>Phalænopsis amabilis</i>), which Cuming had -sent home a few years before, but which was still -extremely rare in England. His Grace the Duke -of Devonshire purchased the first plant, for which -he gave the large sum of one hundred guineas.</p> - -<p>As I had very little time to spare, I was anxious -to make the most of my opportunities. I made -an Indian's hut in the wood my head quarters -where I held a sort of market for the purchase -of orchids. The Indians knew the hour at which -I should return to the hut, and on my arrival I -generally found the ground in front strewed with -orchids in the state in which they had been cut -from the trees, and many of them covered with -flowers. The <i>Phalænopsis</i>, in particular, was singularly -beautiful. I was very anxious to get some -large specimens of the plant, and offered a dollar, -which was a high sum in an Indian forest, for the -largest which should be brought to me. The lover -of this beautiful tribe will easily imagine the delight -I felt, when, one day I saw two Indians approaching -with a plant of extraordinary size, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span>having ten or twelve branching flower-stalks upon -it, and upwards of a hundred flowers in full bloom. -"There," said they, in triumph, "is not that worth -a dollar?" I acknowledged that they were well -entitled to the reward, and took immediate possession -of my prize. This plant is now in the garden -of the Horticultural Society of London; and -although it was a little reduced, in order to get it -into the plant case at Manila, is still by far the -largest specimen in Europe. This beautiful species -may be well called the "Queen of Orchids."</p> - -<p>The air-plants are not found so frequently in the -dense shaded parts of the forests as in the edges of -the woods, on trees by the road-sides, and in exposed -situations. I found the genus <i>Aërides</i> very -often in the most dense parts of the woods, but -never a single plant of <i>Phalænopsis</i>. The latter -was commonly found growing on the branches of -the Mango in the cleared parts of the woods, near -the cottages of the Indians, and sometimes on the -very tops of high trees where it was fully exposed -to the sun. I confess this fact was quite contrary -to the opinion I had formed of the habits of these -plants; for I expected to have found them principally -in damp shaded forests, where the sun's rays -could seldom penetrate; but such is not the case, -at least in the Philippine Islands.</p> - -<p>Having ransacked the country around Don Inego's -farm, I now set off, accompanied by my servants -and some other Indians to St. Pablo and Dolores. -Dolores is a small village in a wild part of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span>the country, where the natives bear a very bad -character, having frequently attacked and robbed -travellers. During our progress my companions -related a great many stories of this kind, and were -evidently not a little frightened. The roads were -only narrow lanes, leading through dense thickets -of brushwood, and the locality was certainly an excellent -one for lawless characters of every description -to do exactly as they pleased in. On one occasion, -when I had gone a little way ahead of the -party, something alarmed them, and the whole set -took to their heels and ran off in another direction. -I rode back after the fugitives, and being well armed -explored the ground in every direction to find out -the cause of their alarm, but could discover nothing, -and at length I persuaded them to return -and pursue the journey. Shortly after this, however, -a wild-looking Indian stepped out of the forest, -and stood eyeing us narrowly as we passed him oil -the road. He had a short matchlock in his hand, -and evidently belonged to the band of free-booters -who infested this part of the country. I passed -him in a very slow and deliberate manner, taking -care to watch his motions, and to let him see that -I and some of my party were well armed, and -prepared for any attack. After looking at us in -silence for a minute or two, he jumped into the -jungle and disappeared.</p> - -<p>As our path winded through the jungle, we sometimes -could only see a very short distance either -before or behind us. At one of these bends we -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span>heard a noise amongst the bushes, as if a number of -men were advancing rapidly towards us, and naturally -concluded that we were about to be attacked. -A halt was instantly called, and then the question -was whether we should advance or recede. As -I had no time to lose I looked to my fire-arms -and determined to proceed. Accordingly I rode -forward a few paces to reconnoitre, and saw a numerous -band, not of robbers or free-booters, but—I -hope my courteous reader will not laugh—of -monkeys! there must have been several hundreds of -these animals on the trees, jumping about from -branch to branch, and evidently enjoying themselves -vastly. As we passed amongst them they commenced -chattering and making all sorts of faces -at us.</p> - -<p>At length we reached the little village of Dolores, -and as in duty bound, I immediately went to -pay my respects to the Padre. His house was a -small miserable hut, little better than those of the -Indians which surrounded it, and poorly furnished.</p> - -<p>He received us kindly, and told us that we were -welcome to the shelter his house afforded, and that -although he had little to offer us in the way of luxuries, -he should do every thing in his power to make -us comfortable. At the same time he informed us -we were in a dangerous neighbourhood, and that he -could not answer for the security of the ponies or -baggage. The servants and Indians who accompanied -me, were accommodated in another house -which was building for the Padre, and the ponies -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span>were tied up there, and a watch set over them. -The Indians mounted guard by turns; they were -well armed, and as they were much frightened, there -was no danger of their neglecting their duty. I -was told in the morning, that they had been roused -several times during the night; but I fancy imagination -had something to do with it, as I found that -every thing belonging to us was perfectly safe. In -the evening, after dark, the worthy Padre did every -thing in his power to amuse me. He had an old -pianoforte which had found its way by some means -into this wild mountain district, but I presume it -had never been tuned since its first arrival, for it -was sadly out of order. On this he played a number -of Spanish and Italian airs, accompanying the -instrument with his voice. After exhausting his -own stock of songs he sent for his servant-boy, and -the head man of the village, who were musicians, -and got up a sort of concert. The Padre played -on the pianoforte, the boy on the fife, and the other -on the clarionette. It must be confessed, however, -that the music was not very harmonious.</p> - -<p>The greater part of the following day was spent -in exploring the surrounding country, and in the -afternoon I bade the hospitable priest adieu, and -started for St. Pablo, which was situated in a more -civilised part of the country. There, also, and indeed -wherever I went, the priests were most kind -and hospitable.</p> - -<p>The Philippine Islands must, atone time, have -been a complete nest of volcanoes. With one exception, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span>they are now all inactive; but traces of -them were met with at every step of our progress -through the higher districts of the country, in the -form of circular pools of stagnant water, and masses -of lava which still emit a most disagreeable odour -when they are stirred up. On the top of a high -hill, near St. Pablo, I came unexpectedly on the remains -of a still more recent volcano. The trees in -its vicinity were in a most unhealthy state, many of -their roots and branches being decayed. Sometimes -I sunk nearly up to the knees amongst burnt-looking -earth, which emitted a strong sulphureous -smell; and, as none of the natives were with me, I -was sometimes afraid of getting into the mouth of -the crater, and going down altogether.</p> - -<p>The Island of Luzon, of which Manila is the capital, -is very like Java and other parts of the straits. -It is very hilly, but extremely fertile, and affords a -most striking contrast to the barren shores of the -south of China which I had just left. Large crops of -rice are produced on the low lands which are capable -of being flooded. Sugar and tobacco are grown on -such ground as would produce good wheat in England; -and coffee and chocolate trees are planted on -the sides of the hills. The Manila mango is considered -one of the finest in the world, not inferior -to that which is produced near Bombay. Cocoa-nuts, -plantains, bananas, and other tropical fruits -abound, and are to be had in great perfection. Besides -these oranges are also cultivated; but they -are inferior to those of China and Europe; indeed, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span>as might be expected, all the fruits, natives of more -northern latitudes, which we find in these islands, -are far surpassed by the same kinds which grow in -climates more congenial to their nature. The vine -is largely cultivated, but it produces grapes of a -very inferior quality.</p> - -<p>The mountainous portions of the country are for -the most part in a state of nature, being covered -with trees, and with brushwood; which in some -places is so thick that I had to employ the Indians -to cut a way through it with small billhooks which -they kept for the purpose. In other parts, the tops -of the tall trees form a mass so dense, that no ray -ever shines through them. The ground on the -sides of these mountains is always in a moist and -slimy condition; and is the habitation of millions -of leeches. In my first excursion to the mountains -I observed the feet and legs of the Indians, who -were cutting a path for me, covered with blood, -and at first I fancied that they must have wounded -themselves with the thorny shrubs which they were -cutting. On inquiry, however, I found that it was -the leeches that were doing the mischief, and in a -very little time I had a good many specimens of -their powers upon my own skin. There were two -species, one a small linear one, and the other nearly -round. "Whenever the former fixed upon the Indians, -they invariably pulled it off, but they never -interfered with the little round one. I found that -the reason for this was, that the latter, if taken off -by force, would leave a very painful wound; but -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span>that, if allowed to suck until it was full, it would -drop off, of its own accord, and leave scarcely a -mark; the other species might be taken off with -impunity. At first, when they fixed themselves -upon me, which they did through my stockings, I -set to work to pull them off, without regard to species, -although warned by the natives of the impropriety -of doing so. In a short time my legs were -covered with blood, and the wounds annoyed me -with a kind of itching soreness for several days -afterwards.</p> - -<p>With the exception of the Orchids, the Philippines -are not very rich in plants of an ornamental -kind. As far as I had an opportunity of -judging, the vegetation of Luzon bears a great -resemblance to the island of Java and the other -parts of the Malay Archipelago. The country is, -however, very rich in birds and shells, and many -of the land species of the latter are extremely valuable. -Mr. Cuming, who is well known in this part -of the world, made very large collections of them, -and has already distributed them over the greater -part of Europe and America.</p> - -<p>After spending about three weeks in the interior -of Luzon and having procured a fine supply of the -beautiful <i>Phalænopsis</i>, and several other Orchids, -I returned to the town of Manila, and shipped a -portion of them to England. These, I am happy to -say, arrived in excellent order; and upon reference -to the garden-lists on my return, I find that no -fewer than forty-five specimens of this lovely plant—the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span>"Queen of Orchids"—had been distributed -amongst the Fellows of the Horticultural Society -of London.</p> - -<p>The time which I had allotted for this excursion -having expired, I sailed for my old station in the -north of China and arrived there on the 14th of -March, 1845. On going up the coast, we had to -contend with the north-east monsoon, and "beat to -windward," during the whole of the passage. One -afternoon when it was nearly dark, and when the -sea was running very high, one of the men who -was out on the bowsprit lost his hold, owing to -the heaving of the vessel, and fell into the sea. -The cry of a "man over board"—that peculiar -cry amongst sailors which, once heard, can never -be forgotten, made me rush on deck. The schooner -was going at the rate of at least eight knots, but -her helm was instantly put down, and her way -stopped. A hand was sent aloft to keep his eye -upon the poor fellow whose head was seen every -now and then as he rose upon a wave, and in a -few seconds the schooner was close at his side. -A rope was thrown out to him, and every one -thought that he would be able to lay hold, and be -drawn in over the side. Probably from exhaustion -he unfortunately missed it, and the schooner -shooting ahead at the time, he was again left to -the mercy of the waves. As a last resource the -boat was lowered; and although rather a dangerous -service, several gallant fellows stepped into it and -pulled in the direction signalled to them from the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span>ship. Those on board were in a state of the most -painful suspense. When we caught a glimpse of -the man from time to time, he was evidently -sinking, and in a few more seconds all must have -been over with him. The boat was nearly lost to -us in the closing darkness, and the men told us -that they were on the point of returning to the -ship without getting a glimpse of their poor messmate, -when they saw his head raised above a wave -close by; and pulling towards him, they caught -him by the hair, and drew him into the boat. -When brought on board he was in a most exhausted -state, but the usual remedies being applied -he recovered in the course of the night.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XIX.</h3> - -<p>SPRING IN THE NORTH OF CHINA.—NEW FLOWERS.—JOURNEY -THROUGH THE COUNTRY.—MOTLEY GROUP OF FELLOW-PASSENGERS.—A -MORNING SCENE IN A CHINESE JUNK.—TARTAR -CITY OF CHAPOO.—SHOPS AND TRADE.—CROWDS OF PEOPLE.—A -VISIT TO THE MANDARINS.—A FREE PASSAGE ONWARD -OFFERED—THEIR OBJECT IN THIS.—MEANS TAKEN TO -THWART THEM.—LEAVE CHAPOO FOR SHANGHAE.—COUNTRY -AND TOWN OF PING-HOO.—SILK DISTRICTS VISITED.—CULTIVATION -OF THE MULBERRY.—MANAGEMENT OF THE SILK-WORM.—ARRIVAL -AT SHANGHAE.—CONSUL'S LETTER ENCLOSING -ONE FROM THE TAOUTAE, OR HEAD MANDARIN.—A -MOST SATISFACTORY REPLY!</p> - -<p class="p2">It was the commencement of spring when I returned -to the north of China. In this season of the -year no country can be more agreeable or healthy -than this. The air is bracing, the sky generally -clear, and the mornings are delightfully cool. Before -long, vegetation progressed with wonderful -rapidity, far surpassing any thing of the kind I had -ever witnessed in England. By the middle of -April, deciduous trees and shrubs were covered with -leaves, barley was in full ear, and the oil plant -(<i>Brassica sinensis</i>) was seen forming masses of -golden yellow, on the hill sides and on the plains, -where the air was perfumed with the fragrance of -its blossoms.</p> - -<p>My object during this summer was to make a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span>complete collection of all my finest plants, for the -purpose of taking them home under my own care. -I lost no time, therefore, in visiting all my former -acquaintances, mandarins and nurserymen—and -made my selections when the plants were in bloom. -<i>Tree-pæonies, Azaleas, Viburnums, Daphnes, Roses,</i> -and many other plants, all new to Europe, and of -great beauty, were from time to time added to this -collection. As many of these plants could be only -verified by the colour of their flowers, it was absolutely -necessary that I should visit the different -districts three or four times during the spring, and -consequently that I should lose as little time as possible -in travelling from one place to another. Shanghae, -Chusan, Ningpo, and many other parts of the -interior, all lying wide of each other, had some object -of interest which demanded my presence and -attention.</p> - -<p>The distance from Ningpo to Shanghae is about -a hundred miles. I had completed my researches -in the Ningpo district, and was very anxious to get -to Shanghae as soon as possible, in order to see -some Azaleas in bloom, which I was anxious to add -to my collections. In another fortnight their flowers -would have been all faded, and it would then -have been impossible to identify the different varieties. -There were two routes from Ningpo to Shanghae, -one for the foreigners and the other for the natives. -The <i>legal</i> road was to go across to Chusan, then -garrisoned by the English, a distance of thirty or -forty miles, nearly due east, and then take the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span>chance of finding some vessel about to sail for -Woosung or Shanghae. I knew that if I took this -line, in all probability I should have to wait for -eight or ten days in Chusan before such an opportunity -would occur, a delay which would have entirely -defeated the object which I had in view. I -determined, therefore, to go by the interdicted -route, and take my chance of consequences.</p> - -<p>The journey overland was a very interesting one. -When I reached the town of Chinhae, at the mouth -of the Ningpo river, I found that some small junks -were to sail that evening for Chapoo, and I lost no -time in securing a passage on board one of them. -I was surprised at my success thus far, as I had anticipated -my greatest, if not my only difficulty would -have been in making a start. I found afterwards -that I was indebted for this to my Chinese servant, -who happened to be a native of Chinhae and knew -the captain of the junk. He persuaded him that -there was no harm in my going by that route; and, -at all events, that he could easily land me at Chapoo, -and that nobody would know how I had come -there.</p> - -<p>In the evening, after many delays on account of -wind and tide, and also with the view of securing -more passengers and cargo, we lifted our anchor and -set sail. In crossing the bay of Hangchow, the tide -runs very rapidly, and the Chinese junks and boats -never go across without a fair or leading wind. I -shall never forget the strange and motley group of -passengers who were my fellow-travellers in this -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span>little vessel. We were all huddled together in the -centre cabin, and our beds were spread down on -each side, merely leaving room for us to walk down -the middle. Some of the passengers were respectable -merchants, but even these had something filthy -and disagreeable about them. Little insects whose -names sound harsh to "ears polite," were charitably -supported in great numbers amongst the warm folds -of their dresses. The first thing I did when my -bed was spread down, was to surround it with my -trunks, gun-case, and another box or two, to prevent, -if possible, any visiters of this description from -leaving their rightful lord and master, and taking -up their quarters with me. With all my care it -was next to impossible to keep myself apart from -the Chinese, owing to the motion of the little vessel -which sometimes sent us rolling from one side to the -other.</p> - -<p>A great part of the night was spent by the Chinese -in smoking opium and tobacco. When morning -dawned, the scene which the cabin presented -was a strange one. Nearly all the passengers were -sound asleep. They were lying in heaps, here and -there, as they had been tossed and wedged by -the motion of the vessel during the night. Their -features and appearance, as seen in the twilight of -a summer morning, were striking to the eye of a -foreigner. I almost fancied that I could read the -characters of the different beings who lay stretched -before me. There was the habitual opium smoker—there -was no mistaking him—his looks were pale -and haggard, his breathing quick and disturbed, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span>and so thin was he, that his cheek bones seemed -piercing the skin. Some seemed care-worn with -business, and others again apparently slept soundly -with hearts light and joyous. All had the fore part -of their heads shaved, and their tails lay about in -wild confusion.</p> - -<p>We were now far on our way across the bay -having had a fair wind and tide during the greater -part of the night, and the hills near Chapoo were -already visible on the horizon to the northward. -All hands were soon busily engaged in getting -breakfast ready. A Chinese sea breakfast consists -chiefly of rice, fish, and vegetables. The proprietors -of the junk provide food for the passengers, for -which they charge a small sum from each, independent -of the passage-money. If the passengers do -not choose to have breakfast, or dinner, they are not -required to pay for it. When breakfast was ended, -some began to smoke opium and others tobacco, -after which most of them went to bed again and -were soon fast asleep. The Chinese when travelling -do little else than eat, smoke, and sleep. During the -whole time I was travelling in the country, I never -remember seeing one Chinese engaged in reading.</p> - -<p>About eleven in the forenoon we came to anchor -in a muddy bay abreast of the city of Chapoo, where -many of the junks are high and dry at low water. -I had my luggage put into a small sand-pan and -rowed for the shore. "You had better take off -your shoes and stockings, and draw up your trowsers," -said one of the Chinese boatmen as we were -getting near the landing-place. The prudence and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span>necessity of this advice was soon apparent; for when -the boat touched the beach, I found that I had to -walk a quarter of a mile up to the knees in mud, -before I could get on firm ground. Now came the -critical part of my expedition. When I had got -through the mud, I inquired for the nearest spring -and commenced my ablutions, making no attempt -to disguise myself, as I was dressed in the common -English garb. Long before I had finished washing, -I was surrounded by some hundreds of the natives, -who seemed perfectly astonished at the sight of an -Englishman, although this place had been attacked -and taken during the late War. All sorts of inquiries -were made regarding me; "where had I come -from?" "where was I bound for?" "what were my -objects?" and a hundred other questions were put to -me, or to those who accompanied me. All were, -however, quite civil and did not attempt to annoy -me in the slightest degree. I now walked to -some hills near the city, and inspected their vegetation. -On the way I visited some temples which -had been battered down by our troops during the -war, and which still remained in the same ruinous -condition. Hundreds of people followed me to the -hills, the view from which is one of the finest I -ever saw in this country. Here it is that the hills -of the south end, and the wide plain of the Yang-tse-kiang -commences. On one side, looking towards -the south and west, mountains are seen towering in -all their grandeur; whilst on the northern side, the -eye rests on a rich and level plain, watered by its -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span>thousand canals, and dotted all over with towns and -villages peopled with an immense number of industrious -and happy human beings. Chapoo and the -country which surrounds it may well be called the -garden of China.</p> - -<p>After inspecting the hills, I went down into the -Tartar city of Chapoo. The suburbs are large and -populous, but the walled city itself is not very extensive. -It is a square, and the circuit of the walls -is not more than three miles; they seem very old, -and are surrounded by a moat, which also serves -the purpose of a canal. Here the Tartar troops -and their families reside, living entirely apart from -the Chinese inhabitants of the town.</p> - -<p>The streets, houses, and shops are of the same -kind as those which I have already described. Indeed, -so like is one town in China to another, that, -if a traveller well acquainted with the northern -cities, was set down blindfolded in one of them, he -would have the greatest difficulty in saying whether -it was Chapoo, Ningpo, or Shanghae. I observed -in the shops a considerable quantity of Japanese -goods, which are brought annually to this place by -the junks which trade with Japan.</p> - -<p>By the time I had examined all the chief objects -of interest, it was late in the afternoon, and I began -to think of leaving the city and taking the road for -Shanghae. I had already taken measures by means -of my servant to find the part of the canal from -which the Shanghae boats started, and thither proceeded -with the intention of engaging a boat. A -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span>numerous crowd had surrounded and accompanied -me, during the whole of the day; but now that I -was on the eve of taking my departure, it was -greatly augmented. Every street, lane, window, -and house-top was crowded with human beings; all, -however, perfectly harmless and civil. When I -reached the canal and attempted to speak with one -of the boatmen, the crowd pressed after me in such -numbers, that the boat, had I got on board, would -probably have been swamped. The poor boatmen -were so frightened, that no reward which I could -hold out would induce them to give me a passage. -They begged and prayed me not to enter their -boats, as some accident would happen from the -number of persons whom nothing could prevent -from crowding in after me.</p> - -<p>I was now in a dilemma, and I scarcely knew -how to get out of it. At last I determined, much -against my inclination, to go to the mandarins. It -is a bad plan to have any thing to do with Chinese -officials when it can be possibly avoided, but in -this case there was no help for it; so, having inquired -for the residence of the superintendent of -boats, I set off to call upon him, followed, of course, -by an immense mob. As we were going to his -house, my servant came up to me and requested -that I would not tell the mandarin that he was in -my service, or that he had any thing to do in bringing -me there. As I could speak the language sufficiently -well to make myself understood, I did not -need him as an interpreter, and I was of course -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span>anxious not to bring him or his relations into any -scrape on my account.</p> - -<p>When we reached the mandarin's house, the -doors were thrown open, and I walked boldly into -the reception-room. It was a most difficult matter -for the servants to keep out the crowd, but they -accomplished the task partly by threats, and partly -by whips, which they used rather more freely than -we should approve of in England. This, however, -is a common mode of punishing the rabble in China, -and when they know they deserve it they take it -very quietly.</p> - -<p>"Tell your master I want to see him," said I -in a lofty tone to one of the attendants, who immediately -went into an inner apartment and returned -with the mandarin himself, clothed in his most -imposing robes of office,—hat, button, peacock -feather, and all. I made him several very low -bows, which he most politely returned." I am in a -great hurry," said I, "to go on to Shanghae, and have -been trying to engage a boat for that purpose, but -cannot succeed without your assistance. Will you -have the goodness to aid me?" After repeating -after me what I had said, as is the invariable custom -in Chinese conversation, he put the following question -to me: "How old are you?" This may seem -strange, but it is considered complimentary by the -Chinese, and is generally amongst the first questions -they put. I thanked him for his inquiry, told him -my age, and then asked his, and again proposed -the question regarding the boat. Upon this he -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span>promised to send one of his servants to get one, -and in the mean time invited me to take some cake -and tea, which were immediately set before me. -The gun which I had with me was an object of -great curiosity to the old man, more particularly -the locks and percussion caps, which he told me he -had never seen before. During the time I was -discussing the cake and tea, he asked me a multiplicity -of questions; such as, where had I come -from last? who had told me there was a road to -Shanghae this way? &c. &c., some of which I -answered, and some I found it convenient not to -understand. At last, through some blunder on the -part of my servant, it became known that he belonged -to me; a circumstance which was immediately -communicated to the mandarin, who sent -for him and subjected him to a close and searching -examination.</p> - -<p>While this was going on, the mandarin of the -highest rank in the city arrived, having been sent -for by his brother in office to hold a conference -regarding me. These worthies, after a long consultation -in a private room, came out and informed -me, in the blandest manner, that they intended to -give me a free passage across the country to -Shanghae, in a boat belonging to themselves, and -that, to add more to my comfort, they would send -another boat to convey my servant and luggage. -This seemed at first sight remarkably kind; but I -had been long enough in the celestial empire to -be aware of the necessity of looking narrowly into -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span>their motives, in order to counteract any evil designs -they might think proper to hide under their -assumed kindness and civility. In this instance -their motives were perfectly plain to me, and were -simply these:—According to the treaty of Nanking, -if any Englishman was found beyond the -boundaries which were to have been fixed at each -of the five ports, he was liable to be seized by -the authorities and brought to the nearest British -Consul, who, in these circumstances, was obliged to -impose a very heavy fine upon the transgressor; -and therefore, if I had accepted their <i>kind</i> offers, -I should have found, on my arrival at Shanghae, -that I was a prisoner instead of a guest, and should, -in all probability, have been handed over as such -to the British Consul. On the other hand, if I -hired my own boat, and went unaccompanied by -any of the mandarin's people, I was perfectly safe, -according to the strict letter of the treaty, even although -a complaint were lodged against me on my -arrival at Shanghae. Nothing would have been -done in the matter by the British Consul unless I -had been <i>bonâ fide</i> taken up beyond the boundaries, -which was not likely to happen; as the Chinese -officials are extremely cautious in all matters of -this kind, in order to avoid getting themselves into -trouble.</p> - -<p>I immediately determined that I would not be -outdone in politeness, and therefore, with many -bows and reiterated thanks, I told them that I -could not think of accepting so much gratuitous -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span>kindness, as I was able to pay my own expenses; -and that all I required of them was simply permission -to hire a small boat, with three or four men, -which would enable me to get on to Shanghae. -They still kept on pressing their offer upon me, -which I continued as firmly to refuse. Another -long private conference between them was now -held, which, I suppose, ended in a determination -to try what effect could be produced on my servant, -who was accordingly sent for. He was desired to -tell me that the distance between Chapoo and -Shanghae was very great, and that the roads were -infested with bands of robbers who were sure to -attack us; and that they could not answer for the -consequences unless another boat and some of their -own soldiers went along with us for protection. -"Tell them," said I, "that I have made up my -mind to travel in my usual way, and that no arguments -which can be used will induce me to change -my opinion, and that the arms which I have shown -them are quite sufficient to repel the attacks of -any robbers whom I may meet on the road." As a -last resource, they sent an officer and his servant -to me, who said that they were going to Shanghae, -and would be extremely obliged if I would allow -them to accompany me. I was obliged to meet -even this <i>civil request</i> with a refusal; and the mandarins, -finding that they must either use force or -allow me to have my own way, finally gave up the -contest.</p> - -<p>A boatman now made his appearance, and announced -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span>that he was ready to proceed to Shanghae. -When I rose to take my leave, I found that all the -servants and retainers had been ordered out for the -purpose of keeping off the crowd and seeing me -safely into the boat. The two mandarins accompanied -me, and we marched off to the canal in -grand style. The crowd which had assembled was -immense, but they were all perfectly quiet and -civil. When we reached the landing-place, I thanked -my two friends for their kindness, and bade them -adieu: then stepping into the boat she was pushed -out into the stream, and we soon left the crowd -and the Tartar city far behind us.</p> - -<p>The country through which we passed was perfectly -level, highly cultivated, and more richly -wooded than any of the lowlands which I had -visited before. It was getting dark when we -reached a town of considerable size, named Ping-hoo, -which is distant only a few miles from Chapoo, -and I determined to remain there for the night. -When the morning dawned I roused the Chinamen, -and we proceeded on our journey. We now passed -through an extensive silk district, where the mulberry-tree -was the principal object of cultivation. -The natives at this time (May 18th) were busily -employed in gathering the leaves and feeding the -silkworms with them.</p> - -<p>The mulberry-trees are all grafted, and produce -very fine thick leaves. I obtained a plant, which is -now alive in England, in order to determine the -particular variety, and whether it is different from -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span>the kinds which are used for the purpose in Europe. -It is not yet, however, in a sufficiently advanced -state for this to be ascertained. One thing, however, -is certain, that the silk produced in this district is -considered as being amongst the finest in China; -but whether this is owing to the particular variety -of mulberry-tree used in feeding the worms, or to -climate or soil, still remains to be ascertained.</p> - -<p>The trees, or rather bushes, are planted in rows, -the banks of the canals being a favourite situation; -and they are not allowed to grow more than from -four to six feet in height. The natives set to -work with a pair of strong scissors, and cut all the -young shoots off close by the stump; they are -then either stript of their leaves, or taken home in -bundles and stript afterwards. Before this operation -takes place, the plants seem in a high state of -health, producing vigorous shoots and fine large -and thick shining leaves. After the leaves have -been taken off, the bushes look like a collection of -dead stumps, and in the middle of summer have -a curious wintry appearance; but the rain, which -falls copiously, and the fertility of the soil, soon -revive a succulent plant like the mulberry. The -Chinese seem very particular in stirring up the -earth amongst the roots of the bushes immediately -after the young branches and leaves have been -taken off, and the plantations appear to have great -attention paid to them.</p> - -<p>The farms are small, and are generally worked -by the family and relatives of the farmer; who -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span>not only plant, graft, and cultivate the mulberry, -but also gather the leaves, feed the silkworms, -and wind the silk off the cocoons.</p> - -<p>During my progress through the silk district, I -visited a great number of cottages, where the -worms were feeding. They are commonly kept in -dark rooms, fitted up with shelves placed one -above another, from the ground to the roof of the -house. The worms are kept and fed in round -bamboo sieves, placed upon these shelves, so that -any one of the sieves may be taken out and examined -at pleasure. The poor natives were greatly -surprised when they saw a foreigner coming -amongst them, and generally supposed that I intended -to rob them of their silkworms. In all -the villages which I visited, they uniformly denied -that they had any feeding-rooms—although the -leaves and stems of the mulberry about their doors -told a different tale; and they never failed to direct -me to go on to some other part of the country, -where they assured me I should find them. Before -we parted, however, they generally gained confidence, -and showed me their collections of worms, -as well as their mode of managing them.</p> - -<p>After passing through the Hang-chow silk district, -and keeping on in an easterly direction, we -reached, late in the evening, a large town named -<span class="smcap">Sung-kiang-foo</span>, which is about 30 miles to the -west of Shanghae, and stopped for the night under -its ramparts. By daybreak the next morning we -were again on our road, and reached Shanghae on -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span>the afternoon of the same day. Having taken up -my abode in the house of my friend, Mr. Mackenzie, -I was surprised in going down stairs next morning -to find one of my Chapoo acquaintances—the -officer already mentioned—in close conversation -with the Chinese servants; but I now cared very -little about the matter, knowing perfectly how the -business must end. There was no doubt that the -whole affair had been reported to the Taoutae, or -head mandarin of Shanghae, and that he would be -obliged, for his own sake, to take some little notice -of it.</p> - -<p>A day or two afterwards I had the honour to -receive the following letter from H. B. M. <span class="smcap">Consul</span>, -and a translation of a note which had been sent to -him by the Taoutae:—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>"H. B. M. Consulate,</p> - -<p>"Shanghae, 21st May, 1845.</p> - -<p>"Sir—The annexed translation of a note received -this morning from the Taoutae is transmitted -to you for an explanation, which I request -may be afforded as soon as possible. I have the -honour to be, Sir, yours, &c.</p> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">G. Balfour,</span></p> - -<p>"H. B. M. Consul for Shanghae."</p></blockquote> - -<p>The inclosed ran as follows:—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>"I have just heard that a merchant of your -honourable nation, Fortune, and his attendant, -Linguist ye Mingchoo, were coming from Tinghae -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span>to Shanghae, and met with a breeze at sea, when -the vessel drifted to Chapoo; that the local officers -in Chekiang then protected and sent them on -along the coast, and that they are living at the -Ming-le Warehouse. I would, therefore, trouble the -honourable Consul to make inquiry of what ship he -is the merchant, and let me know. This is written -wishing you daily happiness."</p> - -<p>"(<i>True Translation.</i>) (Signed) <span class="smcap">W. H. Medhurst</span>, -"Interpreter."</p></blockquote> - -<p>When I perused this document I could not but -admire the cunning of the old man. He knew perfectly -well that it did not contain one word of -truth: that I was not coming from Tinghae, but -from Ningpo; that I met with no breeze at sea -except that which had quietly brought us to the -desired port; and, lastly, that I had not been sent -along the coast, but had had a very pleasant -journey through the interior of the country. I -saw at once that the object of the good old Taoutae -was to allow me to deny the truth of his statements; -and, upon the principle that no man is bound to -criminate himself, I sent the following answer to -Her Majesty's Consul, which was doubtless perfectly -satisfactory to the Taoutae, and just what he -wanted:—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>"Sir—I have the honour to acknowledge the -receipt of a letter from you of yesterday's date, to -which is annexed a translation of a note you had -received from the Taoutae of Shanghae, concerning -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span>which you request an explanation may be afforded -as soon as possible. In answer to this, I beg to -inform you that the circumstances noticed in the -Taoutae's letter do not apply to me, and he is, -therefore, mistaken, or has been misinformed. I -have the honour to be, Sir, yours," &c.</p></blockquote> - -<p>I need scarcely say that I heard no more of the -matter, and from this I concluded that my answer -must have been considered highly satisfactory. I -arrived in Shanghae in good time to transact the -business I had in hand, and not a little pleased at -having so successfully accomplished my "overland" -journey.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XX.</h3> - -<p>SAIL FOR FOO-CHOW-FOO ON THE RIVER MIN.—NOVEL MODE OF -ENGAGING A PILOT.—ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER—SCENERY ON -ITS BANKS.—BRIDGE OF FOO-CHOW-FOO.—CHINESE CHAIRMEN.—INSULTS -RECEIVED FROM THE NATIVES—CITY AND SUBURBS.—NATIVE -TRADE.—FISHING CORMORANTS.—BANK NOTES.—CHARACTER -OF THE NATIVES.—THE LADIES, AND THEIR -FONDNESS FOR FLOWERS.—POPULATION.—REMARKS ON FOO-CHOW-FOO -AS A PLACE OF FOREIGN TRADE.—GOVERNMENT -SPIES.—GARDENS AND NURSERIES.—DECEIT OF THE MANDARINS.—LEAVE -FOO-CHOW-FOO FOR THE TEA HILLS.—MOUNTAIN -SCENERY DESCRIBED.—BLACK-TEA DISTRICTS.—FLORA -OF THE HILLS.—AGRICULTURE OF THE DISTRICT.—NATIVE -FRUIT.—CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE.</p> - -<p class="p2">When I had finished my business in Shanghae, I -left that city, and sailed for <i>Foo-chow-foo</i>, on the -river Min. Foo-chow-foo is the capital of the province -of Fokien, situated in 25° 30' N. latitude, -near the celebrated Bohea hills, and about half way -between Chusan and Canton. On approaching -the entrance to the Min, we anchored under the -lee of some islands named the White Dogs, for -the purpose of procuring a fisherman who could -pilot the vessel into the river, as the entrance is -rather difficult for a stranger, having been until very -lately but imperfectly surveyed. Going to the -shore for that purpose in the ship's boat, we found -a small fishing village inhabited by men and boys, -most of whom had a piratical and forbidding -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span>appearance. It seems that these people only come -here at certain periods of the year to fish; and -when the season is past, they move to more comfortable -quarters on the main-land. No women are -ever allowed to inhabit the island.</p> - -<p>Having picked out the most weather-beaten man -we could find, we asked him if he knew the passage -to the Min, and if he could take a vessel in which -drew three fathoms of water. He immediately -answered in the affirmative; but when we wanted -him to come on board, he altered his mind and -hesitated, probably because he had not confidence -in us; or, it might be, he was frightened at the -consequences, not knowing how his conduct would -be viewed by the authorities. Mr. Shaw, Captain -Freeman, and myself, now held a conference as to -what was to be done. A ship and a valuable cargo -were at stake; the numerous and dangerous sand-banks -near the mouth of the river were visible; and -as the man only refused us his service through fear -and ignorance, we concluded that, as "necessity -has no law," there could be no great harm in taking -him against his will. We accordingly pulled alongside -his little junk, and took him and it off to the -ship, where he very soon got over all his fears.</p> - -<p>The Chinese are certainly a strange and unaccountable -race. Never in my life did I witness -greater apathy than was shown by this boat's crew -when we took them off to the ship. Their companions -too—for there were several boats in the little bay—scarcely -even looked at us, or manifested the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span>least surprise, when they saw our men board the -boat, get her anchor up, and hoist her sail.</p> - -<p>The next morning our pilot got the ship under -weigh, and took us into the river Min by a passage -not marked in our charts; he evinced the most perfect -acquaintance with the depth of water at every -part, and at last anchored us in safety abreast of a -small temple, a few miles from the mouth of the -river. Before we came to the most dangerous point, -where we had to pass between two sand banks, the -captain very quietly informed him, that if he -made any mistake and got the ship aground, he -should have his tail cut off—a punishment very -nearly the greatest, which can be inflicted on a -Chinaman. When told, he shrugged up his shoulders, -gave a sly look, and said, "Very well; we shall -see by and by." The anchorage being reached in -safety, the old man thought it was now his time -for a joke, and, turning triumphantly round with -his tail in one of his hands, exclaimed, "Now, what -about the tail? is it to be cut off, or not? or are you -satisfied?"</p> - -<p>The passage by which we entered the river is -called by the natives the <i>Woo-hoo-mun</i>, or "the -five tiger gate;" and here we saw a most singular -rock, or island, which is cleft, as it were, into five -pyramids, and is much revered by the Chinese -sailor. In fact, he seems to look upon it as representing -the gods of the ocean, and he fails not -to offer up his thanks and his offerings every time -he passes by it on returning from the sea. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span>Chinese are often taunted with their indifference to -the religion which they profess; and yet the earnest -and devout manner in which they burn incense, and -worship at their holy places, would put to the blush -many of the professors of a holier and purer faith.</p> - -<p>The scenery at the mouth of the Min and towards -Foo-chow-foo is striking and beautiful. The river -itself varies much in width and depth, according to -the district through which it flows. Near its -mouth, and at some parts where the country between -it and the hills is flat, it is not less than a -mile in width; but at other parts, where the -mountains come almost to the water's edge, the -river is narrow, deep, and rapid. There are two -or three such places between the mouth of the Min -and the city of Foo-chow-foo. The whole of this -district is hilly, many of the mountains being at -least 3000 feet high; and at this season of the year, -when thunder-storms were almost of daily occurrence, -the effects produced by them amongst these -mountains were grand and sublime.</p> - -<p>It is evident that the Chinese greatly dreaded -our visiting this place during the war. I observed -that forts had been built on all the most commanding -positions on the sides of the river; but -most of them were now without guns, and had -already become dilapidated.</p> - -<p>The little town and fortress of <i>Mingan</i>, a few -miles up the river, is beautifully situated on a hill -sloping down to the water; and the position is so -strong by nature, that, if manned with English -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span>troops, it could defend the pass against the strongest -force.</p> - -<p>A few miles below the city the river is blocked -up, almost all the way across, with stones and old -junks, which are covered at high water. I believe -the <i>intended</i> plan of defence was, to wreck all our -vessels on this barrier, and destroy our men by -batteries erected near it!</p> - -<p>On the banks of the river are numerous temples, -or joss houses, built in the most romantic and -beautiful situations. A fig-tree (<i>Ficus nitida</i>)—a -kind of Banyan—is a great favourite with the -priests, and is always found growing beside the -temples, where its dark green leaves and wide-spreading -branches afford an agreeable shade from -the fierce rays of the sun. About nine miles below -Foo-chow-foo, a pretty little pagoda stands on an -island on the left bank of the river: near this is -the anchorage for large vessels which it would not -be prudent to take up to the town. All the low -hills are neatty terraced and cultivated with sweet -potatoes and earth-nuts, and on the more fertile of -the mountains cultivation is carried on at least -2500 feet above the level of the sea. But many of -the mountains are quite barren; bare rocks of -granite are showing themselves over their surface, -from amongst which springs are almost always -flowing, and when the water accumulates in the -glens between the hills, it forms numerous beautiful -cascades, as it tumbles down into the Min. -Some parts of the region are well wooded, at least -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span>for China; and, viewing the scenery as a whole—the -beautiful river, winding its way between mountains, -its islands, its temples, its villages and -fortresses—I think, although not the richest, it -is the most romantic and beautiful part of the -country which has come under my observation.</p> - -<p>The city and suburbs of Foo-chow-foo stand in -an opening amongst the hills, about twenty miles -from the mouth of the Min. The river runs -through the suburbs, which are connected by the -celebrated bridge called the <i>Wan-show</i>, or "myriads -of ages," which was always said to consist of one -hundred arches. It is not an arched bridge at all; -but is nevertheless a wonderful structure, being -about two thousand feet in length, and having fifty -strong pillars of stone, with large slabs of granite -reaching from the one to the other, and forming -the top of the bridge. During the rains the river -rushes through these divisions with awful rapidity; -and as the bridge has evidently stood for many -ages, it is a proof of the substantial manner in -which it was originally built.</p> - -<p>Leaving the ship at the mouth of the Min, Mr. -Shaw, Captain Freeman, and myself started in a -native boat to go up to the city. When we were -getting into the boat, our old friend the pilot, who -by this time had become quite at home amongst us, -came and begged us to give him a passage as far -up as the first town we were to pass on our way. -We inquired why he did not go back again to -his fishing at the White Dog island. His reply -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span>was, "I should get robbed by pirates of all the -money you have given me for pilotage. I must -first make sure of it by depositing it in the hands -of a friend of mine in the town: after that is done, -I shall return to the island."</p> - -<p>We were nearly two days in getting up to the -city, owing to the rapidity of the stream, caused -by the late heavy rains. We landed near the -bridge already noticed, and immediately inquired -for the house of the English Consul, who, we were -informed, lived in a temple situated within the -city, and about three miles from the landing-place. -As nearly the whole of the streets in the suburbs -were under water at the time, in some parts to the -depth of four feet, it was impossible to walk this -distance; nor was it necessary to make the attempt, -for chairmen surrounded us in great numbers, and -were as determined on putting us into their chairs -as a London conductor is to have passengers for -his omnibus. We willingly yielded to their solicitations, -and got into chairs and set off for the consular -residence. The people here had seen but few -foreigners, and were particularly impertinent and -annoying. Hundreds followed us and crowded -round the chairs; "Quang-yanga, quang-yanga,"—their -term for foreigners—was rung in our ears -from all sides, and frequently other appellations of -a much worse signification. Our Chinese servants, -who walked by our side, were attacked and reviled -for having any connection with us. In one of the -streets the water was so deep that I was obliged to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span>stand up on the seat of the chair, and even then it -reached my feet. Here the crowd became very -abusive, and commenced throwing water over us. -At first our servants bore this treatment pretty -well; but their patience was at last exhausted, and -they turned upon the assailants. The scene was -now both amusing and disagreeable. Luckily I -happened to be a little in advance, and was therefore -pretty well out of the mêlé; but Captain -Freeman came in for his full share of it, and was -completely soaked through. When we got within -the city walls we were not molested further, owing, -I suppose, to the greater strength of the police.</p> - -<p>The city is walled and fortified upon the same -plan as Ningpo and Shanghae, and is at least eight -or nine miles in circumference, having as usual east, -west, north, and south gates. At various points on -the walls, as well as above the gates, guard-houses -are erected, each containing guns; some of which, -according to the writings on them, were cast about -the commencement of the last war. A small area -between the south and north gates is not built upon; -but the greater part of the space within the walls is -densely covered with houses. There are two rather -handsome pagodas, and some small hills on which -temples are built, and where a good view of the town -and suburbs may be obtained. On one of these -hills the British Consul has his residence.</p> - -<p>The streets in all Chinese cities have much the -same appearance: some are a little wider than others, -and have better and more attractive shops; but by -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span>far the greater part of them are narrow and dirty, -and Foo-chow-foo certainly forms no exception to the -general rule. A large trade appears to be carried on -here in copper, judging from the number of shops -tilled with manufactured articles of that metal, particularly -of gongs, of which I observed an immense -number of all sizes. This copper is brought here -principally in junks from Loo-choo. They also -bring a considerable quantity of gold. Both metals -are said to be originally the exports of Japan. I -went on board two of these junks at the mouth of the -Min, which were bound to Loo-choo, and were loaded -with tea-oil, which they told me they had taken in -exchange for their copper. A great quantity of iron -is manufactured here, and wire-drawing is carried on -extensively. The great export trade of the port, -however, is in wood, which is floated down the Min -in large quantities, and covers many acres in the -suburbs near the river side. Hundreds of junks -from Amoy, Ningpo, Chapoo, and some even from as -far north as the province of Shan-tung and the bay -of Pee-che-lee, are constantly employed in this trade. -The wood is chiefly a sort of common pine, employed -in the building of houses, and it is generally cut into -lengths suited to that purpose before it is shipped. -Good planks of fine hard wood can also be had in -any quantity at this place. The wood junks are -loaded with great skill, a great part of their cargo -being lashed to their sides, thus making them about -three times their ordinary width.</p> - -<p>Banking is carried on to a greater extent in Foo-chow-foo -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span>than in the other towns which I have -visited. Paper notes are a common medium of exchange, -in which the people have the greatest confidence, -prefering them to dollars, or "cash." Some -of the notes are as low as four hundred cash—about -eighteen pence English money; others are for very -large sums.</p> - -<p>The people here are generally much cleaner in -their habits, and appear to be a more active race, -than those in the northern towns. In fact, they -approach more nearly to the natives of Canton than -to any other, in these respects. I was much surprised -to find them consuming beef, and even milk, -in considerable quantities; articles which are never -used by the inhabitants of the other districts where -I have been: indeed, everywhere else the Chinese -were wont to express their astonishment when they -saw the English using such articles of food.</p> - -<p>The ladies of Foo-chow-foo are particularly fond -of flowers—artificial as well as natural—for the -decoration of their hair. The rustic cottage beauty -employs the more large and gaudy, such as the -red Hibiscus; while the refined damsels prefer the -jasmine, tuberose, and others of that description: -artificial flowers, however, are more in use than -natural ones.</p> - -<p>The population of Foo-chow-foo has been estimated -at about half a million; and I have no doubt -that if the suburbs and numerous villages in the -vicinity be taken into account, the number is not -over-stated. Up to the time when I left China, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span>little or nothing had been done here in the way of -trade, and I cannot help thinking that its advantages -in this respect have been greatly over-rated. -It is never likely to be a place of as great importance -to England as the more northerly port of -Shanghae; and for this very simple reason—the -physical nature of the country is against it. The -whole of the surrounding region is mountainous; -the rivers are rapid and in some places shallow, -and are often liable to rain-floods. There are consequently -many impediments in the way of a free -transmission of goods into the interior of the -country. Foo-chow-foo was supposed to possess -great advantages, owing to its being near the Bohea -or black tea district; and it was thought at one -time that it might form the great emporium for -the export of this article to Europe and America. -This opinion, however, has hitherto proved fallacious, -and I believe it is now ascertained that the -black teas can be brought more readily to Shanghae -or Ningpo than to Foo-chow-foo; especially -since the Bohea teas have sunk in estimation, and -other districts to the northward, having taken the -place of the Bohea hills, are now furnishing the -black teas of commerce.</p> - -<p>In addition to all these disadvantages the natives -seem a lawless and turbulent race, having all the -characteristics of those in the Canton province, -find, like them, being inveterate in their hatred of -foreigners, and full of conceit as to their own importance -and power. Several very serious disturbances -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</a></span>have taken place at the port since it -was opened to the British.</p> - -<p>After paying our visit to the English Consul, we -returned to the suburbs to look out for a house -where we could put up during our stay. When -we got back to the river, we found all our luggage -and servants already safely lodged in the house of -a person who had been ordered by the mandarins -to lodge us and look after us. We were glad to -get in-doors from the insulting crowd, and were -consequently not very particular as to quarters. -We soon found, however, that we were very -strictly watched, and that we could not move -anywhere without the fact being communicated to -the mandarins.</p> - -<p>My first object was to find out all the gardens -and nurseries in the district. The late G. Tradescant -Lay, Esq., the first consul here, who took a -great interest in botanical pursuits, had unfortunately -left this place for Amoy. All was, therefore, -up-hill work, as it used to be in the more -northern towns when I first visited them. After a -great deal of exertion and annoyance, I found out -a number of gardens and nurseries, both in the -town and in the surrounding country; and obtained -a few new plants.</p> - -<p>The valley of the Min was still flooded in many -parts, and travelling over it was a very serious -matter. One morning I started for a place at a -considerable distance in the country, accompanied -by a guide and a Coolie. I took the Coolie that he -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span>might carry me over those low flats which were -known to be still flooded. We got on pretty well -for some time; but the tide beginning to rise, I soon -found that I must either retrace my steps or make -up my mind to disregard the water, as the whole of -the paths in our route were flooded. Unwilling to -return, I went on, often wading up to my middle; -the same thing occurred during several successive -days, and this under a burning sun, with a temperature -of at least 95° Fahr. in the shade. Few constitutions -could stand this with impunity; and I -suffered severely for it afterwards.</p> - -<p>I was now anxious to proceed further into the -country, particularly into the hilly black tea -district; but the mandarins, who were informed of -all my movements by their spies, did every thing -in their power to dissuade me from making the -attempt. They told the Consul, and induced him to -believe them, that their only reason for wishing to -prevent my going into the interior was, that the -natives were in a state which made it unsafe for a -foreigner to trust himself amongst them: that by -and by they would communicate with the magistrates -in the district to which I wanted to go, and -that after this was done I might proceed with safety. -But I had had too much to do with the Chinese -authorities in various parts of the country to place -any reliance in what they said, more particularly -when I knew that they had some end to gain. -In the present instance, their object was to procrastinate -matters from day to day until I should -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span>be obliged to leave the district. When the Chinese -have an end to gain, the only question with -them is, whether they are most likely to succeed -by telling the truth or telling lies; either method -is resorted to as may best suit their purpose, with -a slight preference, perhaps, for the latter.</p> - -<p>When they found that, notwithstanding all their -descriptions of the fierce and hostile disposition of the -people, I was still determined to go, they declared -that no tea was grown in this district; being fully -persuaded that an Englishman could have no other -object in exploring the country than to see the -cultivation of his favourite beverage. Indeed, every -Chinaman firmly believes we could not continue to -exist as a nation were it not for the productions of -the celestial empire. It has been stated that his -celestial majesty the Emperor himself, during the -war, recommended his subjects to use every means -in their power to prevent the English from getting -tea and rhubarb—the one being what they lived -upon, and the other their medicine, without which, -his majesty said, they could not continue to exist -for any length of time; and consequently would be -more easily conquered in this way than by the -sword.</p> - -<p>I told the mandarins that I did not care whether -there were tea farms on these hills or not; but -that, to cut the matter short, I was determined to -go and see.</p> - -<p>Accordingly, on the following morning I started -early, taking the road for the tea hills. The flat -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span>country through which I passed, between the north -side of the city and the mountains, is chiefly cultivated -with rice, sugar-cane, ginger, and tobacco. -On the sides of the little hills, and also for a considerable -distance up the loftier ranges, large -quantities of sweet potatoes and earth-nuts are -grown during the summer season; but as we -ascend, the mountains become more rugged, cultivation -ceases, and plants indigenous to the -country alone show themselves. On my journey -over these mountains I came to the conclusion that -their native flora was of an intermediate character -between those of the southern and northern -provinces—the tropical species of the south being -found in the low lands, and the species of more -northern latitudes inhabiting the mountains 2000 -or 3000 feet above the level of the sea. In the -low valleys the <i>Ficus nitida</i> attains a large size, and -is a great favourite with the inhabitants. It is -always seen near villages and temples.</p> - -<p>After toiling up one of the celebrated mountain -passes, which is paved all the way, and has a house -of refreshment about half way up, I reached the -summit of the mountain—the highest land in this -part of China. A glorious prospect was spread -before me: the valley of the Min stretching far -across to the other hills; the city of Foo-chow-foo, -with its pagodas, temples, and watchtowers -standing in the centre of the plain; and the broad -river winding smoothly along in its course to -the sea; mountain towering above mountain, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span>the whole striking the mind with wonder and -admiration.</p> - -<p>Among these mountains, and at a height of 2000 -and 3000 feet above the level of the sea, I found -the black tea district, which I was anxious to see, -and the existence of which had been denied by my -affectionate friends the mandarins. Having been -in several green tea countries further north, I was -desirous to ascertain clearly whether the plant was -the same species in both places, or whether, as -generally believed, they were different. I have -stated in a former chapter that the tea-plant of the -northern green tea districts is the true <i>Thea viridis</i> -of botanists. I was now fortunate enough not -only to find an extensive tea district, but also to -be present when the natives were picking and -preparing the leaves; and I not only procured -specimens for my herbarium, but also a living -plant, which I afterwards took to the green tea hills -of the north, and found, on minute comparison, -that it was identical with the <i>Thea viridis</i>. In -other words, the black and green teas which -generally come to England from the northern -provinces of China are made from the same -species, and the difference of colour, flavour, &c. -is solely the result of the different modes of preparation.</p> - -<p>In this region I met with no plants which I had -not seen before in other parts of the country. I -observed the lance-leaved pine (<i>Cunninghamia lanceolata</i>) -in great abundance; indeed, this species and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span>the more common <i>Pinus sinensis</i> are almost the only -trees of any size which grow in this mountainous -district. The natives amongst these hills were -much surprised at the sight of a foreigner, and -came crowding from all quarters to see me; they -were, however, much more civil and respectful -than their countrymen in the lowlands and at -Foo-chow-foo.</p> - -<p>On my return from this excursion, I devoted -most of my time to the examination of nurseries -in the vicinity of the city. They contained some -interesting plants. The celebrated <i>Fingered-Citron</i>, -so common in the shops throughout China, seems -to be cultivated in great perfection in this part of -the country; in fact, it appears to be its natural -locality. The district round Foo-chow-foo seems -to be the great Camellia garden of China, and in -no other part of the country did I ever see these -plants in such perfect health, or so beautifully -cultivated. The <i>Ixoras</i> and <i>Hydrangeas</i> are also -particularly well grown and handsome, the latter -invariably producing flowers of the deepest blue, -much deeper than I have ever seen them in -England. They are grown in a fine rich loam, -which contains some chemical ingredient, and which -is the cause of their deep colour.</p> - -<p>Here, as well as further north, the farmer grows -crops of wheat and green vegetables during the -winter months. A great part of the low country, -at least all that is capable of being flooded, is -cultivated with rice during the summer and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</a></span>autumn. The first crop is ripe in July, and the -second is planted between the rows of the former, -in the same manner as in the northern provinces, -and ripens in the autumn. Large quantities of -tobacco are grown in the province. The farmers -cultivate this plant with very great care, and take -every means to have the leaves large and fine. -For this purpose all the flowers are regularly -picked off, and also all the small and useless leaves -as soon as they are formed. Sugar and ginger -are likewise grown to a greater extent in this part -of China than in any other with which I am acquainted; -and crops of sweet potatoes and earth-nuts -abound on the sides of the hills.</p> - -<p>Amongst fruits, the plums are good, but inferior -to what we have in England; the peaches are -curiously formed, but worthless. What may be -more properly called Chinese fruits, such as -leechees, longans, and wangpees, are, however, -excellent, the climate suiting them admirably. -When I was here (in July), the leechee trees were -covered with their fine red fruit, and were very -beautiful, the fruit contrasted so well with the deep -clear green foliage. Large quantities of oranges, -citrons, and pumeloes are also found in the -district of the Min; but none of them were ripe at -this season. I saw, for the first time, the tree -commonly called the Chinese olive (<i>Canarium</i>), -from the resemblance its fruit bears to the olive -of Europe; also the Chinese date (<i>Zizyphus</i>), -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</a></span>which produces a fruit not unlike the date imported -into England.</p> - -<p>In the fields in the vicinity of Foo-chow-foo, -large quantities of the sweet-scented <i>Jasminum -Sambac</i> are cultivated. It is used to decorate the -hair of the ladies, and to garnish the tables of the -wealthy. I believe that all the gardens, both in the -north and south, are supplied with this favourite -flower from the province of Fokien. Various other -shrubs, such as <i>Murraya exotica, Aglaia odorata,</i> -and <i>Chloranthus inconspicuus</i>, are grown for their -blossoms, which are used for mixing with the tea.</p> - -<p>The temperature of Foo-chow-foo appears to -be intermediate between that of Hong-kong in the -south, and Shanghae in the north. In June, and -in the beginning of July, the thermometer ranged -from 85° to 95° Fahr., and about the middle of the -latter month it rose to 100°, which I believe it -seldom exceeds. The following table was kept by -the late Mr. G. Tradescant Lay:—</p> - -<table class="tb1"> -<tr><td>1844.</td><td class="tdc">Max.</td><td class="tdc">Min.</td></tr> -<tr><td><br />August<br />September<br />October<br />November<br />December<br /><br />1845.<br />January</td> -<td class="tdc">°<br />96<br />90<br />86<br />78<br />75<br /><br /><br />72</td> -<td class="tdc">°<br />82<br />82<br />71<br />65<br />44<br /><br /><br />44</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The weather is generally unsettled and wet -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[Pg 383]</a></span>about the time the summer monsoon changes, that -is, from April to June, and the district is visited -by heavy thunder-storms in July and part of -August. Towards the end of August, in September, -and in the beginning of October, it is generally -very dry. The monsoon now changes again to the -north-east, and the weather becomes variable and -continues so during the winter months.</p> - -<p>During my stay here I received a great deal of -kindness from Mr. Walker, of H. M. Consulate. -The natives continued to the last troublesome and -annoying; and I was very glad when my labours -in the district were ended.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill15"></a> -<img src="images/ill15.jpg" width="450" height="309" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Pagoda Island, on the River Min.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHAP. XXI.</h3> - -<p>ENGAGE A PASSAGE IN A JUNK.—LEAVE THE DISTRICT OF THE -MIN.—AN ATTACK OF FEVER.—RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES ON -BOARD THE JUNK.—ATTACKED BY PIRATES.—SCENE ON -BOARD.—COWARDICE OF THE CHINESE.—PIRATES BEAT OFF.—GRATITUDE -OF THE CREW.—A SAFE ANCHORAGE!—ANOTHER -FLEET OF PIRATES.—ATTACK AND RESULTS.—ARRIVE -AT CHUSAN.—INGRATITUDE OF THE CREW.—MODE OF -MAKING THEM KEEP THEIR WORD.—KINDNESS OF FOREIGN -RESIDENTS AT SHANGHAE.—LARGE PEACHES.—COLLECTIONS -PACKED.—LEAVE THE NORTH OF CHINA.—SAIL FOR ENGLAND.—ARRIVAL -IN THE THAMES.—CONCLUSION.</p> - -<p class="p2">At the time when I visited <i>Foo-chow-foo</i>, although -it was open to the English as a place of trade and -had a British Consul, it was little known in a mercantile -point of view. The entrance to the river -Min was described as extremely difficult and dangerous, -and, consequently, few foreign vessels ventured -to touch at this port. When, therefore, my -botanical researches were completed, and I was ready -to return north to Shanghae, I was obliged to -apply for a passage in a Chinese junk, a whole fleet -of which were to sail in a few days for Ningpo and -Chapoo. Knowing the dislike and jealousy which -most of the natives manifest towards foreigners, I -had some doubt whether I should be able to induce -them to take me as a passenger, and, in that event, -I had determined to go down to the mouth of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</a></span>river, and, "<i>sans cérémonie,</i>" get on board, whether -they consented or not. I was, therefore, agreeably -surprised, when, on sending my servant to make -inquiries as to the time when they were likely to -sail, he returned, bringing with him the captain and -some of the sailors, who were all not only willing, -but most anxious, that I should go with them.</p> - -<p>The principal part of the cargo carried by the -Ningpo and Chapoo junks is wood. This is stowed -on deck, and also lashed firmly to the gunwales and -sides with large ropes of bamboo which are of great -strength. Several hundreds of these vessels may -be seen loading at the port of Foo-chow-foo, particularly -in the summer season, when the monsoon is -fair for their voyage home. The mandarins are -extremely jealous of so large a fleet, and will not -allow them to carry guns, even for their own defence; -evidently fearing that some day or other these -might be turned against the government. The consequence -of this regulation is, that these poor sailors -and all they possess on board often fall an easy -prey to the pirates who abound all along this coast.</p> - -<p>When the cargo was completed, the captain of -the junk came to inform me that he was ready to -start, and requested me to come on board. Whilst -I was packing up my luggage, he began to examine -my fire-arms very minutely, and said to me, "I -hope your gun is a good one, and that you have -plenty of powder and shot?" "What is your -reason for putting this question?" said I: "I am -sure we shall have nothing to shoot in our voyage -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</a></span>up the coast." "Oh yes, you will," answered he; -"we are very likely to be attacked by the <i>Jan-dous</i>, -who swarm outside amongst the islands." "Who -are the <i>Jan-dous?</i>" said I, to my servant, never -having heard the name before. "Oh! they are -pirates," said he, "and we are all very much frightened -at them." "Nonsense!" I exclaimed: "no -pirates will attack us; and if they do, they will -repent it." At this time I had no idea that the -coast was so infested with these lawless characters, -and I put it all down to the cowardice of my -informants.</p> - -<p>As soon as I got on board, we hove up the anchor -and dropped down to the mouth of the Min. We -here found a large fleet of junks—about one -hundred and seventy sail—all, like ourselves, -loaded with wood, and ready to start for the -northern parts of Ningpo and Chapoo. That -evening a meeting of the captains was held on -board of our vessel, and a deputation appointed to -wait upon the mandarins to request them to send -a convoy of war junks to protect the fleet from the -pirates. These negotiations were carried on for -several days; but the demands of the mandarins -were so exorbitant, that the junk people would -not comply with them, and it was at last determined -to sail without the convoy. Just as they -came to this decision, the wind changed and blew a -gale from the north for three days, when it veered -round to the south, and blew nearly as strong -from that quarter, and for the same space of time. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</a></span>These vessels never go to sea in stormy weather, -even if the wind is fair; and, what with gales of -wind and negotiations with mandarins, I was -obliged to content myself with a junk life for a -fortnight at the mouth of the river.</p> - -<p>As long as I enjoyed health I got on well enough; -but the exposure during the past summer, particularly -at Foo-chow-foo, had gradually undermined -my constitution; and the fever, which was probably -kept off for a certain time by bodily exertion, -now seized me, and compelled me to take to my -cot, where I lay for a number of days insensible at -intervals. At times, when consciousness returned, -I certainly thought that my travels were drawing -to a close, and that my grave would be a lonely -one on the banks of the Min. It seemed hard for -me to die in a land of strangers, without a friend -or countryman to close my eyes, or follow me to -my last resting-place; and home, friends, and country, -how doubly dear did they seem to me then!</p> - -<p>The wind having been fair for several days, and -the weather appearing settled, the captain of the -junk came down to the place where I lay, and told -me they intended to sail on the following morning. -He again inquired if I had my gun and pistols in -proper order, and plenty of powder and ball. Still -imagining that they were exaggerating the dangers -of the voyage, I laughed, and said, "Do not be -afraid; I have every thing in order, and I will undertake -to beat off any pirates who may attack us." -Nevertheless, I clearly saw that both captain and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span>sailors were really uneasy about the voyage, and -would have been very glad of another gale to -afford a pretext for deferring it a little longer. -They had, however, no further excuse for delay, -and it was settled that the whole fleet should sail -early the next day.</p> - -<p>The Chinese sailor never goes to sea without -first presenting an offering to the gods to propitiate -them, in order that the voyage may be a speedy -and successful one. Accordingly, on this day the -cabin of our junk was set in order, and the tables -covered with dishes of pork, mutton, fruits, and vegetables. -Candles and incense were burned upon -the tables for a short time, and the whole business -had something solemn and imposing about it. The -cook, who seemed to be the high priest, conducted -all the ceremonies. On other days, as well as this, -it was part of his duty to light the candles in the -little temple where the gods were kept, as well as to -burn incense and prostrate himself before them.</p> - -<p>Early on the following morning, the whole fleet -was in motion, starting altogether for the sake of -mutual protection. The wind and tide were both -fair, and we proceeded along the coast with great -rapidity, and were soon out of sight of the Min and -its beautiful and romantic scenery. The plan of -mutual protection soon seemed to be abandoned, -and the vessels separated into threes and fours, -each getting on as well and as fast as it could. -About four o'clock in the afternoon, and when we -were some, fifty or sixty miles from the Min, the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span>captain and pilot came hurriedly down to my cabin -and informed me that they saw a number of <i>Jan-dous</i>, -right ahead, lying in wait for us. I ridiculed the -idea, and told them that they imagined every junk -they saw to be a pirate; but they still maintained -that they were so, and I therefore considered it -prudent to be prepared for the worst. I got out of -bed, ill and feverish as I was, and carefully examined -my fire-arms, clearing the nipples of my -gun and pistols and putting on fresh caps. I also -rammed down a ball upon the top of each charge -of shot in my gun, put a pistol in each side-pocket, -and patiently waited for the result. By the aid of -a small pocket-telescope, I could see as the nearest -junk approached that her deck was crowded with -men; I then had no longer any doubts regarding -her intentions. The pilot, an intelligent old man, -now came up to me, and said that he thought resistance -was of no use; I might manage to beat off -one junk, or even two, but that I had no chance -with five of them. Being at that time in no mood -to take advice or be dictated to by any one, I ordered -him off to look after his own duty. I knew -perfectly well, that if we were taken by the pirates I -had not the slightest chance of escape; for the first -thing they would do would be to knock me on the -head and throw me overboard, as they would deem -it dangerous to themselves were I to get away. At -the same time I must confess I had little hopes of -being able to beat off such a number, and devoutly -wished myself anywhere rather than where I was.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</a></span>The scene around me was a strange one. The -captain, pilot, and one or two native passengers -were taking up the boards of the cabin-floor, and -putting their money and other valuables out of sight -amongst the ballast. The common sailors, too, had -their copper cash, or "<i>tsien</i>" to hide; and the -whole place was in a state of bustle and confusion. -When all their more valuable property was hidden, -they began to make some preparations for defence. -Baskets of small stones were brought up from the -hold, and emptied out on the most convenient parts -of the deck, and were intended to be used instead -of fire-arms when the pirates came to close quarters. -This is a common mode of defence in various parts -of China, and is effectual enough when the enemy -has only similar weapons to bring against them; -but on the coast of Fokien, where we were now, all -the pirate junks carried guns, and consequently a -whole deck-load of stones could be of very little -use against them.</p> - -<p>During the general bustle I missed my own -servant for a short time. When he returned to -me, he had made such a change in his appearance -that I did not recognise him. He was literally -clothed in rags, which he had borrowed from the -sailors, all of whom had also put on their very -worst clothes. When I asked him the reason of -this change in his outward man, he told me that -the pirates only made those persons prisoners who -had money, and were likely to pay handsomely for -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[Pg 391]</a></span>their ransom; and that they would not think it -worth their while to lay hold of a man in rags.</p> - -<p>I was surrounded by several of the crew, who -might well be called "Job's comforters," some -suggesting one thing, and some another; and -many proposed that we should bring the junk -round and run back to the Min. The nearest pirate -was now within 200 or 300 yards of us, and, -putting her helm down, gave us a broadside from -her guns. All was now dismay and consternation -on board our junk, and every man ran below -except two who were at the helm. I expected -every moment that these also would leave their -post; and then we should have been an easy prey -to the pirates. "My gun is nearer you than those -of the <i>Jan-dous</i>," said I to the two men; "and -if you move from the helm, depend upon it I will -shoot you." The poor fellows looked very uncomfortable, -but I suppose thought they had better -stand the fire of the pirates than mine, and kept -at their post. Large boards, heaps of old clothes, -mats, and things of that sort which were at hand, -were thrown up to protect us from the shot; and -as we had every stitch of sail set, and a fair wind, -we were going through the water at the rate of -seven or eight miles an hour.</p> - -<p>The shot from the pirates fell considerably short -of us, and I was therefore enabled to form an -opinion of the range and power of their guns, -which was of some use to me. Assistance from -our cowardly crew was quite out of the question, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</a></span>for there was not a man amongst them brave -enough to use the stones which had been brought -on deck; and which, perhaps, might have been of -some little use when the pirates came nearer. The -fair wind and all the press of sail which we had -crowded on the junk proved of no use; for our -pursuers, who had much faster-sailing vessels, -were gaining rapidly upon us. Again the nearest -pirate fired upon us. The shot this time fell just -under our stem. I still remained quiet, as I had -determined not to fire a single shot until I was -quite certain my gun would take effect. The -third broadside, which followed this, came whizzing -over our heads and through the sails, without, -however, wounding either the men at the helm or -myself.</p> - -<p>The pirates now seemed quite sure of their prize, -and came down upon us hooting and yelling like -demons, at the same time loading their guns, and -evidently determined not to spare their shot. This -was a moment of intense interest. The plan which I -had formed from the first was now about to be put to -the proof; and if the pirates were not the cowards -which I believed them to be, nothing could save us -from falling into their hands. Their fearful yells -seem to be ringing in my ears even now, after this -lapse of time, and when I am on the other side of -the globe.</p> - -<p>The nearest junk was now within thirty yards -of ours; their guns were now loaded, and I knew -that the next discharge would completely rake our -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[Pg 393]</a></span>decks. "Now," said I to our helmsmen, "keep -your eyes fixed on me, and the moment you see me -fall flat on the deck you must do the same, or you -will be shot." I knew that the pirate, who was -now on our stern, could not bring his guns to bear -upon us without putting his helm down and -bringing his gangway at right angles with our -stern, as his guns were fired from the gangway. -I therefore kept a sharp eye upon his helmsman, -and the moment I saw him putting the helm down -I ordered our steersmen to fall flat on their faces -behind some wood, and at the same moment did so -myself. We had scarcely done so, when bang! -bang! went their guns, and the shot came whizzing -close over us, splintering the wood about us in all -directions. Fortunately none of us were struck. -"Now, mandarin, now! they are quite close -enough," cried out my companions, who did not -wish to have another broadside like the last. I, -being of the same opinion, raised myself above the -high stern of our junk; and while the pirates were -not more than twenty yards from us, hooting and -yelling, I raked their decks fore and aft, with shot -and ball from my double-barrelled gun.</p> - -<p>Had a thunder-bolt fallen amongst them, they -could not have been more surprised. Doubtless, -many were wounded, and probably some killed. -At all events, the whole of the crew, not fewer than -forty or fifty men, who, a moment before, crowded -the deck, disappeared in a marvellous manner; -sheltering themselves behind the bulwarks, or -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[Pg 394]</a></span>lying flat on their faces. They were so completely -taken by surprise, that their junk was left without -a helmsman; her sails flapped in the wind; and, as -we were still carrying all sail and keeping on our -right course, they were soon left a considerable -way astern.</p> - -<p>Another was now bearing down upon us as -boldly as his companion had done, and commenced -firing in the same manner. Having been so successful -with the first, I determined to follow the -same plan with this one, and to pay no attention to -his firing until he should come to close quarters. -The plot now began to thicken; for the first junk -had gathered way again, and was following in our -wake, although keeping at a respectful distance; -and three others, although still further distant, -were making for the scene of action as fast as they -could. In the mean time, the second was almost -alongside, and continued giving us a broadside -now and then with their guns. Watching their -helm as before, we sheltered ourselves as well as -we could; at the same time, my poor fellows who -were steering kept begging and praying that I -would fire into our pursuers as soon as possible, or -we should be all killed. As soon as they came -within twenty or thirty yards of us, I gave them -the contents of both barrels, raking their decks as -before. This time the helmsman fell, and doubtless -several others were wounded. In a minute or two -I could see nothing but boards and shields, which -were held up by the pirates to protect themselves -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</a></span>from my firing; their junk went up into the wind -for want of a helmsman, and was soon left some -distance behind us.</p> - -<p>While I was watching this vessel, our men called -out to me that there was another close on our lee-bow, -which I had not observed on account of our -main-sail. Luckily, however, it proved to be a -Ningpo wood junk like ourselves, which the pirates -had taken a short time before, but which, although -manned by these rascals, could do us no harm, -having no guns. The poor Ningpo crew, whom I -could plainly see on board, seemed to be very much -down-hearted and frightened. I was afterwards -informed that, when a junk is captured, all the -principal people, such as the captain, pilot, and -passengers, are taken out of her, and a number of -the pirates go on board and take her into some of -their dens amongst the islands, and keep her there -until a heavy ransom is paid, both for the junk and -the people. Sometimes, when a ransom cannot be -obtained, the masts and spars and every thing else -which is of any value are taken out of her, and she -is set on fire.</p> - -<p>Two other piratical junks which had been following -in our wake for some time, when they saw -what had happened, would not venture any nearer; -and at last, much to my satisfaction, the whole set -of them bore away.</p> - -<p>Now was the time for my heroical companions -to come from their hiding-place, which they did -with great alacrity, hooting and yelling as the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[Pg 396]</a></span>pirates had done before, and, in derision, calling -on them to come back and renew the fight. The -stones, too, were now boldly seized and thrown -after the retreating junks, reaching to almost a -tenth part of the distance; and a stranger who had -not seen these gentry before would have supposed -them the bravest men in existence. Fortunately -the pirates did not think proper to accept the challenge.</p> - -<p>With the captain, pilot, crew, and passengers, -I was now one of the greatest and best of men in -existence. They actually came and knelt before -me, as to some superior being, and expressed their -deep and lasting gratitude, which, however, did -not last long. The sun was now setting, in all his -glory, behind the hills of Fokien, and many of the -more devout amongst the passengers and crew did -not fail to bow low in adoration and thankfulness -to this supposed deity for their escape out of the -hands of the pirates. Shortly after nightfall we -arrived at one of the safe anchorages, where the -mandarins are too strong for the lawless bands -which infest the other parts of the coast.</p> - -<p>On the following morning we again got under -weigh, and proceeded the whole day without -molestation. In the evening we arrived at another -safe anchorage, or place of rendezvous; but the -security at this place consisted in the number and -strength of the junks actually at anchor there, and -not in the fear which the pirates entertained for -the government. When we reached this place the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[Pg 397]</a></span>night was fine, and, as it was nearly full moon, it -was almost as light as clay. The tide too was just -turning in our favour; and as I was most anxious -to proceed on our voyage, I did every thing in my -power to induce them to go on. It was of no use, -however; for as soon as we reached the anchorage, -and found a large fleet of junks, the anchor was -dropped, and they determined to stay there all -night. I felt very much annoyed, but saw it was -no use to grumble, and went quietly to bed. In -less than an hour from this time, and before I had -fallen asleep, hearing a stir upon deck, I inquired -what was the cause, and found that we were getting -under weigh. This was agreeable news; but as I -could not imagine what had caused them to change -their minds so soon, I went upon deck to see what -was going on. Our people, it appeared, had gone -to sleep the moment our anchor was down; shortly -after this, the other junks, which, it turned out, -were only waiting for the rise of the tide to enter -some river in the vicinity, had all weighed anchor -and gone off. All on board were now in great consternation, -lest the pirates should come down upon -us whilst at anchor, and no time was lost in getting -it up and proceeding on our voyage, much, of -course, to my satisfaction.</p> - -<p>On the following day, late in the afternoon, -when I was laid up in my bed with fever, the -captain came hurriedly down, and informed me -that another fleet of pirates were in sight, and -evidently lying in wait for us. I was obliged to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[Pg 398]</a></span>get up, ill as I was; and when I got on deck I -could see, by the aid of my telescope, six junks -coming out from amongst the islands under the -main land, and evidently bearing down towards -us. This time I was not so sceptical as the last. -After having once seen these rascally vessels, there -was no mistaking others of the same class, as they -came sneaking out of the bays. Their clipper-built -hulls, the cut of their sails, their raking masts, -and the crowd of fellows who lined their decks, all -told the business they were after. It was therefore -evident that we must prepare for another -encounter.</p> - -<p>It now struck me that perhaps I might be able -to deceive the pirates with regard to our strength, -as I was afraid that I might not again be so successful -with them, particularly if they found out -that there was only one foreigner on board: knowing -that they have a great dread of foreigners and -their guns, my object was to make them believe -that there were a number of us, and that we were -well armed. For this purpose I got up all the -spare clothes I had, and put them on the least -Chinese-looking Chinamen on board. At the same -time I desired them to collect all the short levers -which they use for hoisting their sails, and which -at a distance would look not unlike fire-arms, particularly -if the deception was assisted by the report -of a double-barreled gun. Every thing looked -promising, and I thought my recruits were likely -to be of some service to me; but when the nearest -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">[Pg 399]</a></span>pirate, who had been coming fast down upon us, -gave us a broadside, it was too much for my -Chinamen, who were instantly panic-struck, threw -down their arms, and ran below; and, added to -this, I had again to threaten the men at the helm, -who seemed half inclined to follow the example of -the others: so I now prepared for the worst.</p> - -<p>The pirates came on, firing at intervals as the -others had done, and I followed my former plan of -watching their movements until they were near -enough for my gun to tell upon them with fearful -precision. Their shot was now flying about our -ears and riddling our sails, and they came on in -their usual noisy manner, perfectly unconscious of -what I had in store for their reception. For the -last time the helm of the nearest junk was put -down, when we instantly fell flat on our faces and -allowed the shot to pass over us. As soon as their -last gun was fired, and before they had time to -load again, I poured the contents of my gun -amongst them fore and aft, raking the deck as I -had done before. This took them completely by -surprise; and as we were still under a heavy press -of sail, we were soon a considerable way ahead of -them. Two others of the fleet came up and fired -some shots at us; but the whole of them evidently -imagined that a number of foreigners were on board -of our junk, a belief which doubtless had a great -deal to do with the success which attended my -efforts. At length, darkness coming on, they gave -up the pursuit and bore away from us, and in two -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[Pg 400]</a></span>hours more we arrived at a safe anchorage. The -fever, which I had scarcely felt during all this excitement, -now returned with greater violence, and -I was heartily glad to go below and turn into my -bed.</p> - -<p>During the night I heard a great noise on board, -but was too feverish and weak to make any inquiries -as to the cause. In the morning my -servant informed me that it was occasioned by the -arrival of three junks during the night, which had -been chased to the entrance of the harbour by the -pirates; there had, he said, originally been four in -company, but one of them had been taken.</p> - -<p>The sailors on board these junks had not been so -fortunate as we had been, for several of them were -severely wounded, and I was now asked to extract -the balls. The wounds were large and ragged, -owing to the iron shot which the Chinese use in -their guns. I advised the wounded men to hurry -on to Chusan, where they would get good medical -advice.</p> - -<p>Up to nine o'clock in the morning, although the -wind and tide were both favourable, there were no -signs of the junks getting under weigh; I therefore -sent for the captain, and inquired if it was not his -intention to proceed. He told me that he had had -a meeting with the captains of the other vessels, -and that they had determined to get a convoy of -war junks from the mandarin before they went on. -Being now within eighty or ninety miles of Chusan, -I could easily hire a small boat for that distance, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[Pg 401]</a></span>and therefore said to the captain, "Very well, then -I shall leave you here, as I am very unwell, and -anxious to get to Chusan as soon as possible." -"Go," said I, turning to my servant, "and engage -a boat to take me on to Chusan, and bring it here -as soon as you can." When he was about to leave -the vessel, several of the crew gathered round him -and attempted to persuade him not to go. Anxious -to serve his countrymen, although at my expense, -he loitered about for a little while, and then came -back and informed me that it was no use going on -shore, as I should not be able to engage a boat to -take me so far. As I had been informed, by one -of the shore people who had come on board, that -plenty of boats were to be had on hire, I felt annoyed -at his deceit, and threatened to punish him -if he did not start immediately and bring a boat off. -When he saw that I was determined, he turned -sulkily away, jumped into a sand-pan, and procured -a boat without the slightest difficulty. The -captain and crew now crowded round me, begging -me not to leave them, and offering to get up their -anchor and proceed at once. Although my destination -was Chusan, I had taken my passage for -Ningpo, as all the wood junks were bound either -for that port or Chapoo. On their now begging me -to stay, I told them that unless they would sail into -Chusan harbour and leave me there as they passed, -I would proceed in the small boat, as I was anxious -to get there as soon as possible, in order to obtain -medicine and advice. "Oh," said they, "if you -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[Pg 402]</a></span>will only go with us, we will run into Chusan -harbour and leave you there before we cross over -to Ningpo." Upon this assurance I agreed to accompany -them.</p> - -<p>The captains of the other junks now came to me -and asked me if I would undertake to protect them -all from the attacks of the pirates; as, if so, they -would get under weigh and go with us also. Upon -my telling them that I could not undertake to do -this, they told me that they must wait until some -arrangement could be made with the mandarins, -as they were afraid to proceed alone. We therefore -left them at anchor, and proceeded on our voyage. -During the day we frequently saw suspicious-looking -craft, which were pronounced by the crew -to be <i>Jan-dous</i>; but none of them were near -enough to attack us. Late in the afternoon, as -we approached Keto-point—a promontory of the -main-land near Chusan—we met a large fleet -of merchant junks sailing together for mutual protection -on their way down. Some of them came -alongside us, and made anxious inquiries regarding -the <i>Jan-dous</i>, and how many of them they might -expect to meet with. Our people did not fail to -give them an exaggerated account of the number -we had seen and fought with, and the news did -not appear greatly to delight them. During the -night the tide turned against us; and as the wind, -although fair, was light, we were obliged to anchor -until morning.</p> - -<p>When I went on deck at daylight the following -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[Pg 403]</a></span>morning, I found we were just under Keto-point, -and only a few miles from Chusan harbour. The -land was well known to me, having been frequently -there before. It was the most welcome sight -which had met my eyes for many a long day; and -I was thankful indeed to the Almighty for my -escape from the pirates.</p> - -<p>Whilst the men were heaving up the anchor, -my old friends the captain and pilot came below, -bolder and in much better spirits than heretofore, -and informed me, with the greatest coolness, that -they had changed their minds about going into -the harbour of Chusan; and that I must go over -with them to Ningpo, from whence I could easily -return in a small boat for Chusan. I felt very -much nettled at this conduct, which, considering -that I had saved their junk from being taken by -the pirates on two different occasions, was most -ungrateful. I reproached them with this ingratitude, -telling them that, as they were now safe from -the <i>Jan-dous</i>, they imagined that they could do -with me just as they pleased. "But you never deceived -yourselves more," added I: "you may show -as much ingratitude as you please; but I shall -take care that you fulfil the promise you made to -me yesterday, and take me into the harbour of -Chusan before you go over to Ningpo. Look -here: you see this gun and these pistols; they -are all loaded: you know what effects they produced -upon the <i>Jan-dous</i>; take care they are not -turned against yourselves. Englishmen never allow -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[Pg 404]</a></span>promises which have been made to them to be -broken with impunity. I know the way into -Chusan harbour as well as you do, and when the -anchor is up I shall stand at the helm; and if the -pilot attempts to steer for Ningpo, he must take -the consequence." This threat had the desired -effect; and the trembling varlets landed me safely -at Chusan in the course of the forenoon.</p> - -<p>What with the fever and the excitement of the -last few days, I was in a most deplorable condition -when I reached Chusan; but as the greater part of -my collections were in the country near Shanghae, -I was most anxious to ascertain in what state they -were; and, finding an English vessel about to sail -for the Yang-tse-Kiang, I immediately crawled on -board, and, having a fair wind, we soon reached our -destination. I was kindly received by my friend -Mr. Mackenzie, and under the skilful treatment of -Dr. Kirk, the fever gradually left me.</p> - -<p>Amongst the more important of the acquisitions -which I made in the vicinity of Shanghae, I -must not forget to mention a fine and large variety -of peach, which comes into the markets there about -the middle of August, and remains in perfection -for about ten days. It is grown in the peach -orchards, a few miles to the south of the city; and -it is quite a usual thing to see peaches of this -variety eleven inches in circumference and twelve -ounces in weight. This is, probably, what some -writers call the Peking peach, about which such -exaggerated stories have been told. Trees of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</a></span>Shanghae variety are now in the garden of the -Horticultural Society of London.</p> - -<p>The whole of my plants from the districts of -Foo-chow-foo, Chusan, and Ningpo, being brought -together at Shanghae, I got them packed, and, on -the 10th of October, left the north of China for -Hong-kong and <span class="smcap">England</span>. As I went down the -river, I could not but look around me with pride -and satisfaction; for in this part of the country -I had found the finest plants in my collections. It -is only the patient botanical collector, the object -of whose unintermitted labour is the introduction -of the more valuable trees and shrubs of other -countries into his own, who can appreciate what I -then felt.</p> - -<p>When we arrived at Hong-kong, I divided my -collections, and despatched eight glazed cases of -living plants for England: the duplicates of these -and many others I reserved to take home under -my own care. I then went up to Canton, and took -my passage for London in the ship "John Cooper." -Eighteen glazed cases, filled with the most beautiful -plants of northern China, were placed upon -the poop of the ship, and we sailed on the 22d of -December. After a long but favourable voyage, -we anchored in the Thames, on the 6th of May, -1846. The plants arrived in excellent order, and -were immediately conveyed to the garden of the -Horticultural Society at Chiswick. Already, many -of those which I first imported have found their -way to the principal gardens in Europe; and at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[Pg 406]</a></span>the present time (October 20, 1846), the <i>Anemone -japonica</i> is in full bloom in the garden of the Society -at Chiswick, as luxuriant and beautiful as it -ever grew on the graves of the Chinese, near the -ramparts of Shanghae.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<a id="ill16"></a> -<img src="images/ill16.jpg" width="450" height="303" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">Anemone on the Tombs.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[Pg 407]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<a id="ill17"></a> -<img src="images/ill17.jpg" width="600" height="877" alt="" /> -<div class="caption">A Chinese Funeral.</div> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[Pg 408]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">London:</span></p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Spottiswoode and Shaw,</span></p> - -<p class="center">New-street-Square. -</p> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Years' Wanderings in the -Northern Provinces of China, by Robert Fortune - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS *** - -***** This file should be named 54720-h.htm or 54720-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/4/7/2/54720/ - -Produced by Madeleine Fournier. 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