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diff --git a/old/55824-0.txt b/old/55824-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index f15ed40..0000000 --- a/old/55824-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16532 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of From Dan to Beersheba, by John P. Newman - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: From Dan to Beersheba - A Description of the Wonderful Land with Maps and Engravings - and a Prologue by the Author Containing the Latest - Explorations and Discoveries - -Author: John P. Newman - -Release Date: October 26, 2017 [EBook #55824] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA *** - - - - -Produced by Richard Hulse and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA - - - - - ┌────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐ - │ │ - │ Transcriber’s Notes │ - │ │ - │ │ - │ Punctuation has been standardized. │ - │ │ - │ Characters in small caps have been replaced by all caps. │ - │ │ - │ Non-printable characteristics have been given the following │ - │ transliteration: │ - │ Italic text: --> _text_ │ - │ │ - │ This book was written in a period when many words had │ - │ not become standardized in their spelling. Words may have │ - │ multiple spelling variations or inconsistent hyphenation in │ - │ the text. These have been left unchanged unless indicated │ - │ with a Transcriber’s Note. │ - │ │ - │ The symbol ‘‡’ indicates the description in parenthesis has │ - │ been added to an illustration. This may be needed if there │ - │ is no caption or if the caption does not describe the image │ - │ adequately. │ - │ │ - │ Footnotes are identified in the text with a number in │ - │ brackets [2] and have been accumulated in a single section │ - │ at the end of the text. │ - │ │ - │ Transcriber’s Notes are used when making corrections to the │ - │ text or to provide additional information for the modern │ - │ reader. These notes are not identified in the text, but have │ - │ been accumulated in a single section at the end of the book. │ - │ │ - └────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┘ - - - Illustration: JERUSALEM. - - - - - FROM - DAN TO BEERSHEBA - - - A DESCRIPTION OF THE - WONDERFUL LAND - - WITH - - MAPS AND ENGRAVINGS - - AND - - A PROLOGUE BY THE AUTHOR CONTAINING THE LATEST - EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES - - - BY - - JOHN P. NEWMAN, D.D., LL.D. - - Bishop of the Methodist Episcopal Church and Member - of the London Society of Biblical Archæology - - - REVISED EDITION - - - NEW YORK: HUNT & EATON - CINCINNATI: CRANSTON & CURTS - - - - - Copyright, 1892, by - JOHN P. NEWMAN, - NEW YORK. - - - - - TO - MY WIFE, - THE - JOY - OF - MY LIFE. - - - - -This edition of Bishop Newman’s book on Palestine――_From Dan to -Beersheba_――is demanded by its introduction into the course of study -prescribed for the undergraduates in our Annual Conferences, who, -during their ministry, will have frequent occasion to refer to the -history, topography, and customs of the Holy Land, of which this book -so fully and clearly treats. - - THE PUBLISHERS. - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - The two Boundaries.――The parallel Mountains. ―― The great Valley. - ―― Inspired Eulogies. ―― Sterile Soil. ―― Gibbon Comparison. - ―― Natural and miraculous Causes of present Sterility. ―― - Testimonies of pagan Authors on the ancient Productions of - Palestine. ―― Land coveted by the great Nations of Antiquity. - ―― A Land of Ruins. ―― Present Fertility and Fruits. ―― - Richness of the North. ―― Volney on the Variety of the Climate - of Palestine. ―― Beauties of Spring in the Promised Land. ―― - Flowers. ―― Magnificent Scenery. ―― Standard of Landscape - Beauty. ―― Palestine is a World in Miniature. ―― Illustrations. - ―― Prophetical Descriptions of the twelve Tribeships. ―― - Wonderful Correspondence. - - - CHAPTER II. - - Location of Jerusalem. ―― Strong defensive Position of the City. - ―― Surrounding Hills and Valleys. ―― Its Situation compared - to that of Athens and Rome. ―― True Meaning of the 125th Psalm. - ―― Tower of Psephinus. ―― The two Valleys. ―― Height of the - adjacent Mountains. ―― A City without Suburbs. ―― Modern Wall. - ―― Goliath’s Castle. ―― Immense Stones of Solomon’s Age. ―― - Ancient Portals. ―― Beautiful Corner-stone. ―― Pinnacle of - the Temple from which Christ was tempted to throw himself. ―― - Golden Gate. ―― Tower of Antonia. ―― Objection to Prophecy - answered. ―― The Bevel the Sign of Jewish Masonry. ―― Great - Cave beneath the City. ―― Wanderings by Torchlight. ―― - Solomon’s Quarry. ―― Tyropean Valley. ―― Five Hills of - Jerusalem. ―― Mount Zion. ―― Royal Abode. ―― Herod’s three - Towers. ―― Splendid Church of St. James. ―― House of Caiaphas. - ―― Scene of the Last Supper and of Pentecost. ―― Tomb of David. - ―― Royal Plunderers. ―― Proof of its Antiquity. ―― Home of the - Lepers. ―― Sad Sight. ―― Akra. ―― Bezetha. ―― Napoleon’s - Church. - - - CHAPTER III. - - Mount Moriah. ―― Site of Solomon’s Temple. ―― Surrounding Walls. - ―― Great Fosse. ―― Pasha’s Palace. ―― Council Chamber of the - Jewish Sanhedrim. ―― Jews’ Place of Wailing. ―― Their cruel - Treatment. ―― Scene on Friday Afternoon. ―― Mournful Spectacle. - ―― High-priest. ―― Prophecy fulfilled. ―― Solomon’s Bridge. ―― - Its Antiquity. ―― Temple Area. ―― Tower of Antonia. ―― Shrines - within the Inclosure. ―― Imposing View. ―― Dome of the Chain. - ―― Mosque of Omar. ―― Its grand Exterior. ―― Its History. - ―― Its Portals. ―― Its magnificent Interior. ―― Sacred Rock - within the Mosque. ―― Traditions. ―― Scene of the Offering of - Isaac and of other Scriptural Events. ―― Mosque of El-Aksa. ―― - Its Interior and History. ―― Solomon’s subterranean Passageway. - ―― Extraordinary Workmanship. ―― Mosque of Jesus. ―― Solomon’s - great Vaults. ―― They reflect his Genius. ―― Evidence of their - Antiquity. ―― Solomon’s great Lake beneath his Temple. ―― His - Work. ―― Vicissitudes of Mount Moriah. - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Valley of the Dead. ―― Tombs of the Judges. ―― Of El-Messahney. - ―― Of the Kings. ―― Valley of the Kidron. ―― Pillar of Absalom. - ―― Traditional Tombs. ―― Jews’ Cemetery. ―― Funeral Procession. - ―― Mount of Offense. ―― Virgin’s Fountain. ―― Gardens of - Siloam. ―― Bridal Party. ―― Pool of Siloam. ―― Of En-Rogel. ―― - Vale of Hinnom. ―― Burning of Children. ―― Valley of Slaughter. - ―― Potters’ Field. ―― Solomon’s Coronation. ―― Pools of Gihon. - ―― Pool of Hezekiah. ―― Supply of Water. - - - CHAPTER V. - - Laws of the Credibility of Tradition. ―― Dean Trench on Words. - ―― Scenes of the historical Events of Christianity not well - defined. ―― Palm Sunday in Jerusalem. ―― Crossing the Mount - of Olives. ―― Journey to Bethany. ―― Site of the City. ―― Home - of Mary and Martha. ―― Tomb of Lazarus. ―― Christ frequented - Bethany. ―― To his Visits is due its Significance. ―― Touching - Legends. ―― Resurrection of Lazarus. ―― Scene of Christ’s - triumphal March to Jerusalem. ―― Garden of Gethsemane. ―― Old - Gardener. ―― Walls and Iron Gate. ―― Place of Sweet Repose. - ―― Flowers. ―― Pictures. ―― Aged Olive-trees. ―― Overwhelming - Emotions. ―― Ascent of the Mount of Olives. ―― Three Paths. - ―― David’s Ascent. ―― Connection of the Mount with the two - Dispensations. ―― Scene of the Ascension. ―― True Place. ―― - Commanding View from the Summit of Olivet. ―― Passion Week - in Jerusalem. ―― Footsteps of our Lord. ―― Good Friday in - the Holy City. ―― Visit to the Garden. ―― Lord’s Supper. - ―― Sleepless Night. ―― Calvary. ―― True Location. ―― Its - Appearance. ―― Appropriate Place. ―― Via Dolorosa. ―― Pilate’s - Judgment-hall. ―― Ecce Homo Arch. ―― Legendary Stations. ―― - Crucifixion of Christ dramatized by the Latin Monks. ―― The - Procession. ―― Ascent to Calvary. ―― Tumult. ―― Spectators. - ―― Sermons. ―― The Cross. ―― Church of the Holy Sepulchre. - ―― Architecture. ―― Scene in the Court. ―― The Façade. ―― - Imposing Interior. ―― Chapel of the Greeks. ―― Rotunda. ―― - Dome. ―― Holy Sepulchre. ―― Magnificent Decorations. ―― Its - Interior. ―― The Tomb. ―― Holy Shrines. ―― Not the Tomb of - Christ. ―― Difficulties of the Question. ―― Evidence for its - Identity. ―― Objections. ―― Argument against the Site. - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Forty Days and forty Nights in the Holy City. ―― Inside View - of Jerusalem. ―― Streets. ―― Buildings. ―― Commerce. ―― A - Cosmopolitan City. ―― Government Officials. ―― Taxation. - ―― Population. ―― Turks. ―― Dervishes. ―― Fast of Ramadan. - ―― Feast of Beiram. ―― Moslem Sects. ―― Their Creeds. - ―― Quarter of the Jews. ―― Their wretched Condition. ―― - Their Nationalities. ―― Pensioners. ―― Jewish Passover. ―― - Ceremonies witnessed. ―― Jewish Sabbath in Jerusalem. ―― - Synagogue. ―― Education. ―― Mr. Touro and Sir Moses Montefiore. - ―― Religious and Industrial Institutions. ―― Christian Sects - in the Holy City. ―― Armenians. ―― Their Wealth. ―― Greeks. - ―― Their Influence. ―― Latins. ―― Their Edifices. ―― Monastic - Quarrels. ―― Curious Scene. ―― Rivalry between France and - Russia. ―― Russian Gold. ―― Protestant Christianity in - Jerusalem. ―― English Church. ―― House of Charity. ―― The - two Slave Girls. - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Road to Jericho. ―― Delay. ―― Caravan. ―― Robbers. ―― Ladies. - ―― Scenery. ―― Waters of Enshemesh. ―― Wilderness of Judea. - ―― Scene of Christ’s Temptation. ―― Thieves of Jericho. ―― - Parable of the Good Samaritan. ―― Brook Cherith. ―― Wild - Region. ―― Elijah fed by the Ravens. ―― First View of the - Plain of the Jordan. ―― Evening at Jericho. ―― Ruins of the - ancient City. ―― Historical Events. ―― Fountain of Elisha. ―― - ’Ain Dûk. ―― Castle of Doch. ―― Jericho of the New Testament. - ―― Scene of Herod’s Death. ―― Town of Riha. ―― Site of Gilgal. - ―― Great Events. ―― Sunrise on the Plain of Jericho. ―― - Richness of the Plain. ―― Quarantania. ―― Description of - Turkish Soldiers. ―― The Ride. ―― Banks of the Jordan. ―― - Sources of the Sacred River. ―― The ten Fountains. ―― The - three Lakes. ―― Descent and Sinuosities of the River. ―― Glen - through which it flows. ―― Flowers and Trees on its Banks. - ―― Birds in its Shrubbery and Beasts in its Thickets. ―― Its - Color. ―― Depth. ―― Rapidity. ―― Twenty-seven Rapids. ―― Falls. - ―― Islands in the River. ―― Roman Bridges. ―― Brook Jabbok. ―― - Jacob and the Angel. ―― War Scenes. ―― Entrance of the Jordan - into the Dead Sea. ―― Meaning of Jordan. ―― Pilgrim’s Ford. ―― - Charming Scenery. ―― Mountains of Moab. ―― Vision of Balaam. - ―― Vision of Moses. ―― His Death. ―― Crossing of the Jordan by - the Israelites. ―― Probable Place. ―― Overflowing of the River. - ―― Causes. ―― Translation of Elijah. ―― Cure of Naaman. ―― - Baptismal Stations of John the Baptist. ―― Bethabara. ―― Ænon. - ―― Scene of Christ’s Baptism here. ―― The Argument for it. - ―― Journey to the Dead Sea. ―― Robbers. ―― Features of the - Sea. ―― Delightful Bath. ―― Dimensions of the Sea. ―― Its Bed - coeval with the Upper and Lower Valleys. ―― Sea larger than - formerly. ―― No Outlet. ―― Its Waters evaporate. ―― Peninsula. - ―― Island. ―― Surrounding Mountains. ―― Hot Springs of - Callirrhoe. ―― Sublime Chasm. ―― Castle of Machaerus. ―― Wild - Glen. ―― River Arnon. ―― Scenery. ―― City of Kerak. ―― Ruins - of Zoar. ―― Location of Sodom. ―― Manner of its Destruction. - ―― Mountain of Salt, cause of the saltness of the Sea. ―― - Lot’s Wife. ―― Ruins of Masada. ―― Besieged by Flavius Silva. - ―― Tragical Death of 600 Sicarii, their Wives and Children. ―― - Fountain of the Kid. ―― David and Saul. ―― Maon. ―― The Home - of Abigail. ―― Journey to Bethlehem. ―― Wilderness of Engedi. - ―― A Night with the Monks of Mâr Sâba. ―― The Monastery. ―― - Bethlehem. ―― Its Names. ―― Antiquity. ―― History. ―― Convent - of the Franciscans. ―― The Stable of the Nativity. ―― Present - Condition. ―― Pictures. ―― The Manger. ―― Tomb of St. Paula. - ―― Cell of St. Jerome. ―― Basilica of St. Helena. ―― Evidence - that this is the Birthplace of Christ. ―― Stable in a House. - ―― Situation of Bethlehem. ―― Population. ―― Beautiful Women. - ―― Herodium. ―― Tomb of Herod the Great. ―― Cave of Adullam. - ―― Hiding-place of David. ―― Its Wonders. - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - En Route for Hebron. ―― Travelers. ―― Beautiful Scenery. ―― - Ancient Travelers. ―― Evening. ―― Gray’s Elegy. ―― Search - for Lodgings. ―― Hebron. ―― Its Name. ―― Origin. ―― Home of - Abraham. ―― History. ―― Location of the City and its Environs. - ―― Pools. ―― Cave of Machpelah. ―― The Mosque over it. ―― - Tombs of the Patriarchs and their Wives. ―― Prince of Wales. - ―― Isaac still Lives. ―― Identity of the Cave. ―― Evidence. - ―― United in Death. ―― Beersheba. ―― Its ancient Wells. ―― - Events of the Past. ―― Changeless Customs. ―― Abraham and the - Angels. ―― Dining with an Arab Sheikh. ―― Grapes of Eshcol. ―― - Abraham’s Oak. ―― Ruins. ―― Pool of Solomon. ―― His Aqueduct. - ―― Plains of Rephaim. - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Land of the Philistines. ―― Its Limits. ―― Fell to the Lot of - Simeon and Dan. ―― Origin of the Philistines. ―― The meaning - of the Name. ―― Their royal Cities. ―― Their God and Goddess. - ―― Journey thither. ―― Valley of Roses. ―― Baptism of the - Eunuch. ―― Home of John the Baptist. ―― Slaughter of the Jews - in the City of Bether. ―― Site of Bethshemesh. ―― Home of - Samson. ―― Village of Zorah. ―― Field where the Angel appeared. - ―― Town of Timnath. ―― Lair of the Lion. ―― Home of Delilah. - ―― Oriental Weddings. ―― Valley of Shochoh. ―― Scene of the - Conflict between David and Goliath. ―― Correspondence between - Scripture and the natural Features of the Place. ―― The Valley. - ―― The Brook. ―― The smooth Stones. ―― The Sling. ―― The - Mountains. ―― The Champions. ―― The Victory. ―― Home of - Goliath. ―― Gath. ―― David’s feigned Insanity. ―― Road to - Eleutheropolis. ―― Its Location. ―― Great Caves. ―― Site - of Lachish. ―― Its great Battle-field. ―― Sennacherib and - Hezekiah. ―― Byron’s Hebrew Melody. ―― Gaza. ―― Palm-groves. - ―― Direction of the Road. ―― Site of the City. ―― Modern City. - ―― Ancient Ruins. ―― Christian Church. ―― Home of Giants. ―― - Gates that Samson carried away. ―― His Prison. ―― The great - Feast. ―― Samson called. ―― His Presence alarms the Multitude. - ―― Feats of Strength. ―― Death Scene. ―― He is a Failure. - ―― Alexander the Great wounded at Gaza. ―― A Moslem City. ―― - Ascalon. ―― Route thither. ―― Stood near the Sea. ―― Ruins. ―― - Desolation. ―― History. ―― Adorned by Herod. ―― Captured by - the Crusaders. ―― Road to Ashdod. ―― Beautiful Gardens. ―― No - Ruins. ―― Dagon and the Ark. ―― Road to Joppa. ―― Villages. - ―― Joppa on the Sea. ―― Its Antiquity. ―― Floats of Pine and - Cedar. ―― House of Simon. ―― Substantial Structure. ―― Peter’s - Vision. ―― Appearance of the Town. ―― Gate of the City. - ―― Population. ―― Jews. ―― Nubian Magician. ―― Magnificent - Orange-groves. ―― Ramleh. ―― Franciscans. ―― Traditions. - ―― Antiquities. ―― Tower. ―― View. ―― Ludd. ―― Eneas cured - of Palsy. ―― Church of St. George. ―― Beautiful Ruin. ―― - Nether Bethhoron. ―― Wretchedness. ―― Upper Bethhoron. - ―― Battle-field of Gibeon. ―― The Battle. ―― Wonderful - Correspondence. ―― Testimony of the Rocks. ―― Ajalon. ―― Sun - and Moon stand still. ―― City of Gibeon. ―― Modern Town. ―― - Gibeonites. ―― History. ―― Death of the Gladiators. ―― Pool - of Gibeon. ―― Murder of Amasa. ―― Solomon’s Dream. ―― “The - Look-out.” ―― Mizpeh. ―― National Rendezvous. ―― Ebenezer - Stone. ―― Saul chosen King. ―― Minaret. ―― Vast and - magnificent Prospect. - - - CHAPTER X. - - Northern Palestine. ―― Gibeah. ―― Birthplace of King Saul. ―― - Historical Events. ―― Thrilling Story of Rizpah watching her - Dead Sons. ―― Identity of the City. ―― Field of the Arrow. - ―― Parting of David and Jonathan. ―― Nob. ―― Massacre of the - Priests. ―― The View. ―― Birthplace of Jeremiah. ―― Geba. ―― - Pottage. ―― Benighted. ―― Yusef Shang, of Beeroth. ―― A Night - of strange Experience. ―― Town of Beeroth. ―― Ancient Bethel. - ―― Its Desolation. Site of the City. ―― Abraham’s Altar. ―― - Parting of Abraham and Lot. ―― The Fountain. ―― Jacob’s Flight - and Dream. ―― Idolatry. ―― Prophecy fulfilled. ―― Route to - Shiloh. ―― Romantic Scenery. ―― Robbers’ Fountain. ―― Wild - Glen. ―― Robbers. ―― Their Dance. ―― Sinjil. ―― Shiloh. ―― - Remains. ―― Site discovered in 1838. ―― Tower. ―― Damsels - of Shiloh carried off. ―― Death of Eli. ―― Approach of the - Robbers. ―― An Attack. ―― Resistance. ―― Again assailed. ―― - Again resist. ―― Revolvers drawn. ―― Escape. ―― Overtaken. - ―― Third Attack. ―― Revolvers in demand. ―― Sixteen against - Four. ―― Serious Moment. ―― One of the Party whipped. ―― Narrow - Escape. ―― Lebonah. ―― Ride to Nablous. ―― Grand View. ―― - Evening on the Plain of Mukhrah. ―― Antiquity of Nablous. ―― - History. ―― Its beautiful Situation. ―― Population. ―― Inside - View of the Town. ―― Character of the People. ―― Christian - School. ―― Origin of the Samaritans. ―― Remnant of the Nation. - ―― Their Creed. ―― Their religious Peculiarities. ―― Their - High-priest. ―― Their sacred Writings. ―― Vale of Shechem. - ―― Its Length and Beauty. ―― Cursings and Blessings of the - Law. ―― The Scene. ―― Great Congregation. ―― Twin Mountains. - ―― Jacob’s Well. ―― History. ―― Sweet Water. ―― Evidence of - its Antiquity. ―― Jesus at the Well. ―― Woman of Samaria. ―― - Accuracy of its evangelical History. ―― Well Sold. ―― Tomb of - Joseph. ―― Symbol of his Life. ―― Ascent of Mount Ebal. ―― - Twenty Lepers. ―― Ascent of Mount Gerizim. ―― Almond-groves. - ―― Ruins on the Summit. ―― Holy of Holies of the Samaritans. - ―― Traditions. ―― Not the Scene of the Offering of Isaac. ―― - Samaritan Passover. ―― Impressive Moment. ―― Lambs slain. ―― - The Feast. - - - CHAPTER XI. - - A Price for Politeness. ―― Escort. ―― Picturesque Scenery. ―― - Samaria. ―― Its Founder. ―― Its Vicissitudes. ―― Residence - of Elisha. ―― Famine. ―― City beautified by Herod. ―― Its - Location. ―― Hill of Omri. ―― Grand Ruins. ―― Tomb of John - the Baptist. ―― Temple of Augustus. ―― Prediction fulfilled. - ―― Departure for Cæsarea. ―― Night on the Plain of Sharon. ―― - The Sick brought out. ―― Plain of Sharon. ―― The Lost Lake. ―― - Cæsarea uninhabited. ―― Dangers. ―― History. ―― Imperial City - under Herod the Great. ―― Grand Ruins. ―― St. Paul a Prisoner. - ―― Death of Herod Agrippa. ―― Athlit. ―― Mount Carmel. ―― - Scene of the Sacrifice. ―― Great Event. ―― Abode of Elisha. - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Plains of Palestine. ―― No Farm-houses. ―― Great Plain of - Esdraelon. ―― Its Fertility. ―― Topography. ―― River Kishon. - ―― World’s Battle-field. ―― Waters of Megiddo. ―― Deborah and - her Victory. ―― Jeneen. ―― Bethshean. ―― Encampment. ―― Modern - Sheikhs and ancient Patriarchs. ―― City of Ruins. ―― Jabesh - Gilead. ―― Pella. ―― Gideon’s Fountain. ―― Mount Gilboa. ―― - Battles. ―― Jezreel. ―― Napoleon and the Turks. ―― Shunem. - ―― Nain. ―― Endor. ―― Witch’s Cave. ―― Saul and Samuel. ―― - Witches. ―― Mount Tabor. ―― Its Form. ―― Woods. ―― View. ―― - Misnomer. ―― Transfiguration. ―― It occurred at Night. ―― - Argument. ―― Benighted Party. - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Jerusalem and Capernaum the great Centres of our Lord’s - Ministry. ―― Christ a limited Traveler. ―― Judea and Galilee - contrasted. ―― Provinces of Galilee. ―― The Herods. ―― Meaning - of Galilee. ―― Sea of Galilee. ―― Its Characteristics. ―― - Hallowed Associations. ―― Imperial City of Tiberias. ―― Founded - by Herod Antipas. ―― His Crimes. ―― John the Baptist. ―― It - became a Jewish City and the Metropolis of the Race. ―― Home - of eminent Scholars. ―― Now an Arab Town. ―― Citizens. ―― - Miraculous Draught of Fishes. ―― Jesus never visited it. - ―― Warm Baths of Tiberias. ―― Site of Tarichea. ―― Naval - Engagement. ―― Bridge of Semakh. ―― River Jarmuk. ―― City - of Gadara. ―― Ruins. ―― Tombs. ―― Not the Scene of the - Destruction of the Swine. ―― Argument. ―― Ruins of Gamala. ―― - Near here was the Scene of the Miracle. ―― Mouth of the Jordan. - ―― Bethsaida Julias. ―― Feeding of the Five Thousand. ―― Our - Lord Walking on the Sea. ―― Home of Mary Magdalene. ―― Rich - Plain of Gennesaret. ―― Parables. ―― Site of Capernaum. ―― - Fountain of the Fig. ―― Thrilling History of the City as - connected with Christ. ―― The Woe. ―― Desolation. ―― Bethsaida. - ―― Birthplace of Peter, James, and John. ―― Not Bethsaida - Julias. ―― Influence of natural Scenery upon the Formation - of Character. ―― Chorazin. ―― Sudden Gale upon the Sea. ―― - Extensive Remains of the City. ―― Without an Inhabitant. ―― - Upper Jordan. ―― Waters of Merom. ―― Tell el-Kâdy. ―― City of - Dan. ―― Its Fountain. ―― Cæsarea Philippi. ―― Town of Hasbeiya. - ―― Fountain. ―― Highest perennial Source of the Jordan. ―― - Mount Hermon. ―― Vast and grand Prospect from its lofty - Summit. ―― Scriptural Allusions. ―― “Valley of the Pigeons.” - ―― Sublime Ravine. ―― Mount of Beatitudes. ―― Battle of Hattin. - ―― Defeat of the Crusaders. ―― Triumph of Saladin. ―― Route - to Nazareth. ―― Its authentic History is not older than the - Christian Era. ―― Its Valley and Mountains. ―― Population. - ―― Schools. ―― Legendary Sites. ―― Scene of the Annunciation. - ―― House and Shop of Joseph. ―― Pictures. ―― Fountain. ―― - Beautiful Girls of Nazareth. ―― Mount of Precipitation. ―― - True Mount. ―― View. ―― Scene of our Lord’s Childhood and - Manhood. - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Phœnicia. ―― Its Extent and Fertility. ―― Origin of the - Phœnicians. ―― Their Commerce. ―― Their Learning. ―― Departure - from Nazareth. ―― Cana of Galilee. ―― First Christian Wedding. - ―― Beautiful Vale of Abilîn. ―― Plain of Accho. ―― City of - ’Akka. ―― Names. ―― Metropolis of the Crusaders. ―― Their - Destruction. ―― Gibbon. ―― The Moslem Nero. ―― Napoleon’s - Defeat. ―― Road to Tyre. ―― Summer Palace. ―― Excavations. ―― - Wild and dangerous Pass. ―― Antiquity of Tyre. ―― Three Tyres. - ―― Stupendous Water-works. ―― Continental Tyre. ―― Sins and - Judgments. ―― Glory departed. ―― How Prophecy was fulfilled. - ―― Insular Tyre. ―― Tyre of the Crusaders. ―― Cathedral. ―― - Tomb of Hiram. ―― Wonderful Temple. ―― Sarepta. ―― Zidon. ―― - Gardens. ―― Ancient Glory. ―― Wars. ―― Harbor. ―― Citadel. ―― - Tombs. ―― Interesting Discoveries. ―― Ornaments. - - - CHAPTER XV. - - Mountains of Lebanon. ―― Grand Scenery. ―― Sublime View. ―― - Mountain Traveling. ―― Scriptural Allusions. ―― Cedars of - Lebanon. ―― Their Number, Appearance, and symbolic Character. - ―― Population of the Mountains. ―― Districts and Peculiarities - of the Druzes and Maronites. ―― New Road. ―― Crossing the - Mountains. ―― Plain of the Bukâ’a. ―― Leontes. ―― A swollen - River. ―― Ancient Cities. ―― Imposing Cavalcade. ―― Wives of - the Pasha of Damascus. ―― First View of Damascus. ―― Splendor - and Enjoyments of the Interior of the City. ―― Great Plain - of Damascus. ―― Abana and Pharpar. ―― Scene of St. Paul’s - Conversion. ―― City without Ruins. ―― Antiquity and thrilling - History of Damascus. ―― House of Judas. ―― Home of Ananias. - ―― “Street called Straight.” ―― Naaman’s Palace. ―― Tombs of - the Great. ―― Location of Damascus. ―― Walls and Gates. ―― Old - Castle. ―― Great Mosque. ―― Gardens of Damascus. ―― Commerce - of the City. ―― Curiosities in the Bazars. ―― Population. - ―― Christian Citizens. ―― Origin of the Massacre of 1860. ―― - Its Progress. ―― Terrible Scenes. ―― American Vice-Consul. - ―― Ruins. ―― Sad Results. ―― Defense of the Christians by - Abd-el-Kader. ―― Visit to the Chieftain of Algiers. ―― Our - Reception. ―― Testimonials. ―― His Appearance. ―― Conclusion. - ―― Political History of Palestine. ―― Its Condition under the - Turks. ―― It is now in a Transition State. ―― Possessions of - European Nations. ―― Future of the Holy Land. ―― Christian - Missions. ―― Decline of Mohammedanism. ―― Religious Liberty. - ―― Future Glory. - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - Jerusalem - Maps of Southern and Northern Palestine - Immense Stones of Solomon’s Age - Golden Gate――Interior View - Mount Zion and Tower of Hippicus - Jews’ Place of Wailing - Solomon’s Bridge - Mount Moriah, with a View of the Mosque of Omar - Solomon’s subterranean Passage-way - Tombs of the Judges - Tombs of the Kings - Absalom’s Pillar restored - Tombs in the Valley of Jehoshaphat - Fountain of the Virgin - Pool of Siloam - Lower Pool of Gihon - Pool of Hezekiah - Bethany - Gethsemane and the Mount of Olives - Via Dolorosa and the Arch of the Ecce Homo - Church of the Holy Sepulchre――Front View - View of the Holy Sepulchre - Ground Plan of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre - View of Modern Jerusalem, from the Mount of Olives - Raven - Plain of Jericho and View of the Dead Sea, from the North - Shooting the Rapids - Dead Sea - Masada - Convent of Mâr Sâba - View of Bethlehem - Cave of the Nativity - Interior of the Church of the Nativity - Tomb of Herod the Great――Herodium - Hebron - Urtâs - Solomon’s Pools - Gaza - Ruins of Askelon - Ashdod - Joppa from the North - Ramleh, or the “Look-out” - Church of St. George - Gibeon - Nablous - Jacob’s Well - Samǎria - Ancient Cæsarea - Women grinding at a Mill - Arab Encampment - Jezreel - Nain - Mount Tabor - Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee - Ruins and Tombs of Gadara - Plain of Gennesaret and Home of Mary Magdalene - Upper Jordan - “Valley of the Pigeons” - Nazareth - Acre from the East - Ladder of Tyre - Tyre - Has el-’Aĭn - Tomb of Hiram - Sidon - Cedars of Lebanon - - - - - PROLOGUE. - - -The Land and the Book are inseparable. Like prophecy and history they -complement each other. They are the reciprocal witnesses of the same -great truth. They stand or fall together. Our chief interest in -Palestine is the confirmation of scriptural allusions to its topography, -the scene of personal and national history. The sacred writers make -incidental references to towns and cities, to valleys and mountains, to -lakes and rivers, to battlefields and other scenes of important events, -around which will forever cluster the most hallowed associations of -our religious faith. They make these allusions with an accuracy of -statement which to-day is in proof of the sincerity of their purpose -and the truthfulness of their record. There is a sublime naturalness -in their narration which is monumental evidence of the facts which they -have transmitted to mankind. These frequent off-hand references clearly -indicate that the sacred writers resided in Bible Lands, that they -witnessed the events they recorded, and were familiar with the times, -places, and persons of which they wrote. - -Unbelievers realize the force of this argument and have sought, but -in vain, to charge the inspired penmen with inaccuracy, and thus throw -distrust upon their history; but they have found to their consternation, -both by personal observation and the testimony of travelers, that the -Bible is the most reliable handbook of Palestine extant. - -During one of my visits to Jerusalem I chanced to meet a venerable -English barrister who had made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land to write -a book against the Bible founded on the supposed discrepancies between -the Land and the Book; and I subsequently met him at Beyroot, after his -_fruitless_ journey from “Dan to Beersheba.” While at Mosul, opposite -ancient Nineveh, I met George Smith, sent forth by a London journalist -to explore the Assyrian ruins, and who, as archæologist and philologist, -ranks with Layard and Rassam. He went out an unbeliever, but such is -the agreement between the record of the ruins and the record of the -Book, that Mr. Smith returned to London a believer, and lectured before -the Society of Biblical Archæology on the marvelous synchronisms of the -Assyrian tablets and the sacred historians. - -_From Dan to Beersheba_ was written to verify these references. It -has the advantage of having been written on the scene of the recorded -event, in notes taken for future elaboration of all that had transpired -thereon, whether in sacred or profane history. It was my custom, from -which I seldom deviated, to read on the spot every reference in the -Bible to each locality I visited, and to record my observations and -impressions while my mind was aglow with the recollections of the -hallowed associations of the place and impressed with the extraordinary -agreement between the inspired narration and the present aspect of the -scene where the grand events had transpired; so that the traveler of -to-day, with this book in hand, will have his memory refreshed and his -mind inspired by a picture of what once occurred on the accredited -historic site. - -Through all the turbulent centuries since Christ ascended, Palestine -has been a “changeless land,” whose social customs, mechanic arts, -commercial and manufactural methods have suffered little from contact -with Western civilization, and it should be the ambition of Christendom -to preserve it _intact_ to the last generation of mankind. Providence -calls us to preserve this monumental land. The changeful influence of -the mighty West is seen to-day on lower Egypt, on Asia Minor, on Grecia -and Rome in Europe, but Palestine abides the same forever; as Christ -and his apostles left it we now see it, and so should it be seen by -all future ages. Impelled by sectarian zeal or for political purposes, -the nations of Europe have sought supremacy there, and the Promised -Land is the larger factor in the Eastern Question, but neither France, -nor Russia, nor England should take possession, but rather a syndicate, -representing all nations and all creeds, should hold it in fee simple -by purchase from the Sultan subject to such rights of property as may -vest in the present inhabitants. - -It is a land of buried cities which await the coming of the spade. -Names are to be verified, places are to be identified, dates are to be -reconciled. The whole land should be open to research. Modern Jerusalem -should be removed. The Jerusalem of Solomon and of Christ is from two -to three hundred feet buried beneath the present city. That religious -metropolis of the world has suffered twenty-seven sieges, and eleven -cities have been built upon the ancient site. Each conqueror leveled -the _débris_ and thereon reared his new capital. Vital questions await -the spade of the explorer. Much has been accomplished within the last -twenty years, and more awaits the efforts of the future. - -The whole of western Palestine has been surveyed, and the biblical -gains have been immense. Not less than six hundred and twenty-two names -west of the Jordan are given by the sacred writers. Of these we had -knowledge of two hundred and sixty-two, and by the survey one hundred -and seventy-two were discovered and added to our list, leaving one -hundred and eighty-eight to be uncovered by the archæologist. Some of -these are insignificant, but others are of intense interest, such as -Mamre, Gethsemane, and Arimathea, around which cluster most hallowed -memories. The surveyors have determined the boundaries of the tribes, -the march of armies, the routes of pilgrims, merchants, and kings. -Beautiful Tirzah, royal residence of Jeroboam, has been identified, -with its enchanting landscape――“Beautiful as Tirzah, comely as -Jerusalem”――and in the rocks are to be seen the tombs of the kings -of Israel. The famous battlefield of Sisera and Deborah has been -traced, the relative positions of the contending hosts by the waters -of Megiddo, the path of the flight of Sisera, when “the river Kishon -swept them away, that river of battles, the river Kishon,” the site of -the black tent of Heber the Kenite, where the generous Jael gave the -royal fugitive Leban a delicious preparation of curdled milk, and then, -when he infringed upon oriental etiquette and insulted her womanhood by -forcing himself into the women’s apartments, the avengeful Jael drove -the iron tent-peg into the offender’s brain. - -The “Brook Cherith,” from which Elijah drank, and the “Valley of -Achor,” where Achan was stoned, have been identified, and the site of -Bethabara, dear to all Christians, has been recovered. The native name -Abârah, a passage or ferry, now marks one of the fords of the Jordan, -just above where the Jalûd debouches into the sacred river, and means -the same as Bethabara――a “ferry.” This disarms the critics of the -fourth gospel, inasmuch as Cana of Galilee is but twenty-two miles -from Abârah, a day’s journey, while from the traditional site of our -Lord’s baptism the distance is eighty miles. Forty fords of the Jordan -have been identified; hundreds of ancient names have been recovered; -the site of Gilgal has been determined; the tombs of Joshua and of -Nun, and the tombs of Eleazar and Phinehas, successors of Aaron in -the priesthood, have been rescued from oblivion, and are to be seen in -Mount Ephraim, south of Shechem, all of which appear of great antiquity. - -In the first chapter of this book I gave what seemed to me at the -time the wonderful correspondence between the prophetical descriptions -of the twelve tribeships and the present aspects and conditions -of those twelve sections, as to climate, physical features, soil, -cultivation, and natural products, and the recent surveys more than -confirm this correspondence. It is now apparent that the boundaries of -the tribal possessions were rivers, ravines, ridges, and the watershed -lines of the country, and, above all, the fertility of the soil was -in accordance with the density of population, and this density is now -indicated by the larger number of ancient ruins. - -While excavations have been made with more or less success in all the -notable sections of the land, those of chief interest to the biblical -scholar are in and about the holy city. There shafts have been sunk -through the _débris_ one hundred and twenty-five feet below the present -surface of the ground. In those researches the foundation stones of the -walls of the temple area were laid bare; Phœnician jars were found, on -which are Phœnician characters; a subterranean passage was uncovered, -a secret passage for troops from the citadel to the temple in times of -danger; old aqueducts were brought to light; the ancient wall on Mount -Ophel was traced hundreds of feet; the first wall on Mount Zion, and -the probable site of the second wall, on which so much depends touching -both the Temple and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, were discovered. -The explorer has confirmed the historical statement of the glories of -the temple of God, one thousand feet long and two hundred feet high, -the grandest structure ever dedicated to divinity. - -In their explorations they found fragments of earthenware at a depth -of ninety feet, belonging to the city of the Jebusites, B.C. 1500; -they uncovered pavements, one of mezzah stone, and between the -pavements rubbish twenty feet deep, and under a second pavement was -found Haggai’s seal, bearing the Hebrew inscription, “Haggai, son of -Shebaniah,” B.C. 500. And in those depths of the ages were found lamps, -dishes, stone weights, and a Phœnician jar, standing upright where the -workmen of King Hiram of Tyre left it 3,000 years ago, and beautiful -vases of black ware covered with crimson glaze. They were rewarded for -their patient toil by uncovering immense columns, broken arches, vast -vaults, the bases of great towers, and large water tanks, four hundred -feet long, subterranean passageways, with their steps _in situ_, -and strong triple gates; they exhumed the lower courses of Solomon’s -city wall, seven hundred feet long and whereon are painted Phœnician -characters in red paint, still bright, and they brought to light a -stone cross inscribed, “The light of Christ shines forth for all.” For -these magnificent results we are indebted to two Americans, Robinson -and Barclay, and to two Englishmen, Warren and Conder. - -In my visits to the holy city I experienced a keen regret that I was -not treading the streets trodden by Christ and his apostles. They -are hidden beneath the accumulated rubbish of ages. As I walked the -crooked, neglected lanes of modern Jerusalem I felt I was treading upon -the buried temples and palaces and avenues of Solomon’s glorious reign -which await a resurrection by the spade, when the crescent goes down -and the cross goes up. The regret I had experienced was relieved when -I stood upon Mount Moriah, whose summit remains in its form and aspect -as when Jesus “walked in Solomon’s Porch;” or when I crossed the little -stone bridge which spans the Kedron, so often pressed by his weary feet; -or when I sat on the slopes of Olivet and “beheld the city” which in -its former majesty and glory rose before his divine vision. - -Until the uncivilized and uncivilizing Turk is driven from the holy -city, and until Christendom owns that religious metropolis of the world, -and until the archæologist can pursue his noble work unmolested, two -questions will remain in dispute――the site of Calvary and the site -of the tomb of Joseph of Arimathea. Greeks and Latins claim that both -are within the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, a claim which rests upon -the traditions of centuries, but which can never be substantiated -beyond a doubt until the second wall of the Jerusalem of Christ can be -definitely traced. Both English and American explorers of to-day place -Calvary on the ridge over the Grotto of Jeremiah, north of the city and -near the Damascus Gate. From immemorial time this has been called the -“Hill of Execution;” it resembles the human skull, and the Jews esteem -it accursed, and exclaim as they pass it, “Cursed be he who destroyed -our nation by aspiring to be king thereof.” And to the west of the hill, -two hundred yards north of the Damascus Gate, on one side is a lane -leading to St. Stephen’s Church, and opposite is an arched gateway of -stone, with wooden door, which opens into a garden, and in the garden -is the tomb. The tomb has never been finished, yet it has been occupied; -its construction is Herodian, about the time of Christ; it has been -occupied for only one burial; it is a Jewish tomb and designed for one -of wealth and influence; it has been used for Christian worship, and -upon its walls can now be traced faintly a frescoed cross with the -sacred monograms. - -Interesting and remarkable as are the recoveries thus far made, a -larger future awaits the archæologist. There are venerable traditions -which point to hidden vaults and subterranean passageways beneath -ancient Jerusalem wherein were secreted during the last and fatal -siege of the city the Ark of the Covenant, the autograph copy of the -Pentateuch, and the sacred vessels of the temple which were brought -back from Babylon, and these traditions have been confirmed by the -excavations of the present day. And there is good reason to believe -that St. Matthew’s gospel in Hebrew, together with some of the -apostolic letters, were deposited in a place of security when the storm -of persecution burst upon the Church in Jerusalem. A few inscriptions -have been found and translated, illustrative of the Scripture record. -A tablet has been recovered on which is an inscription in Greek――the -characters are monumental in size――which is a notice to strangers not -to pass through the sacred inclosure of the temple: “No stranger is -to enter within the balustrade round the temple inclosure; whoever is -caught will be responsible to himself for his death, which will ensue.” -This recalls the episode recorded in Acts xxi, 26, when St. Paul, -after his purification, was accused of introducing into the temple -the Gentile Trophimus of Ephesus, which caused a riot, that was -quelled by the intervention of the Tribune, who rescued Paul. In the -Pool of Siloam there was discovered an inscription, the letters of -which closely resemble those on the Moabite stone. On this tablet, -twenty-seven inches square, is recorded in six lines a commemoration -of the completion of the tunnel, which is a third of a mile long and -connects the Virgin’s Fount with the Pool of Siloam, and dates back to -the reign of Solomon. And at Bethphage a stone was uncovered on which -are frescoes representing the raising of Lazarus and the triumphal -procession in honor of our Lord, and strong arguments are adduced that -on this stone the Saviour rested when he sent his disciples to the city. -These are but intimations of the future, when biblical research can be -carried forward unhindered by the greed of the Turk or the fanaticism -of the Jew. - -While we wait patiently for the incoming of that better day, Jerusalem -is attracting the attention of all peoples. Palestine is still the -“high bridge” of the nations, over which the commerce of the world -must pass from west to east. The old saying of Scripture is still true: -“I have set Jerusalem in the midst of the nations,” and for some wise -purpose it is destined to be the religious metropolis of the world. -Sixty thousand people dwell within her walls; eight thousand Turks hold -the city and rule it with an iron hand. They have neither patriotism -nor honor; they are robbers in the disguise of government officials. -Forty-two thousand Jews have come from Spain, Poland, and the ends of -the earth, who are paupers, and who divide their time between wailing -over their departed glory and living on the charity of others. Ten -thousand Christians are denizens of the once proud city, who stand -guard over the “sacred places” and are the thrift and hope of the place. -Four thousand orthodox Greeks and four thousand orthodox Latins watch -each other with a jealous eye, and are ready for the fray whenever -the “Silver Star of Bethlehem is stolen.” The Arminian Christians are -merchant princes; the Syrians live on the venerable past; the Copts -and Abyssinians are few and poor; and the four hundred Protestants -represent the brain, the heart, the enterprise, the piety, and the -charity of modern Jerusalem. They are American and Scotch Presbyterians, -German Lutherans, and Anglican Episcopalians. They have founded -hospitals, organized schools, built churches, created a healthful -literature, and are the energy of public opinion. While many are -waiting for the restoration of the Jews these noble Protestant -Christians are preparing the way for the coming of the Lord, when -Jerusalem shall be rebuilt and made holy and once again be the joy of -the whole earth. - - Illustration: ‡ signature of John P. Newman. - - Illustration: NORTHERN PALESTINE. - - Illustration: SOUTHERN PALESTINE. - - - - - FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA. - - - - - CHAPTER I. - - The two Boundaries. ―― The parallel Mountains. ―― The great - Valley. ―― Inspired Eulogies. ―― Sterile Soil. ―― Gibbon’s - Comparison. ―― Natural and miraculous Causes of present - Sterility. ―― Testimonies of pagan Authors on the ancient - Productions of Palestine. ―― Land coveted by the great Nations - of Antiquity. ―― A Land of Ruins. ―― Present Fertility and - Fruits. ―― Richness of the North. ―― Volney on the Variety - of the Climate of Palestine. ―― Beauties of Spring in the - Promised Land. ―― Flowers. ―― Magnificent Scenery. ―― Standard - of Landscape Beauty. ―― Palestine is a World in Miniature. - ―― Illustrations. ―― Prophetical Descriptions of the twelve - Tribeships. ―― Wonderful Correspondence. - - -THE boundaries of Palestine are defined by the sacred writers according -to the Land of Possession and the Land of Promise. The extreme length -of the former is 180 miles from north to south, the average breadth -50 miles from east to west, and it has a superficial area of 14,000 -square miles. The latter is 360 miles long, 100 broad, and contains -2,800 square miles, being three and a half times larger than New -Jersey, twice as large as Maryland, of equal extent with South Carolina, -and of exact proportion to New Hampshire, Massachusetts, and Vermont -combined. The limits of the lesser area are from “Dan to Beersheba” -north and south, and from the Jordan to the Mediterranean east and -west. The boundaries of the greater area are from the “Waters of Strife, -in Kadesh,” on the south, to the “entrance of Hamath” on the north, -and from the eastern shore of the Mediterranean to the western border -of the Arabian Desert.[1] Moses describes the Land of Promise;[2] -Samuel, the Land of Possession;[3] the former, what was included in the -original grant; the latter, what was actually possessed by the “chosen -people.” And although the twelve tribeships remained substantially the -same as surveyed by Joshua, yet both David and Solomon held dominion -from the Nile to the Euphrates, and in them was fulfilled God’s promise -to Abraham.[4] - -It is the remark of an eminent writer that “there is no district on -the face of the globe containing so many and such sudden transitions as -Palestine, being at once a land of mountains, plains, and valleys.”[5] -Far to the north, at the “entering of Hamath,” commence two parallel -ranges of limestone mountains, extending southward to the Desert of Tîh -and Arabia Petræa, which are branches of the ancient Taurus chain, and -a continuation of that mountain tract stretching from the Bay of Issus -to the Desert of Arabia, called Lebanon. The western ridge attains its -greatest altitude, opposite Ba’albek, in Jebel Mukhmel, whose summit -rises 13,000 feet above the level of the sea. Continuing southward -to the point opposite Tyre, the chain is broken by the River Leontes -flowing through a sublime gorge into the Mediterranean. Decreasing -in height, but expanding in breadth, the ridge continues south of -the ravine to the hills of Nazareth and the wooded cone of Tabor, -where it is broken again by the great plain of Esdraelon, through -which the Kishon flows to the sea, separating the hills of Galilee -from the mountains of Samaria. Coming up from the Bay of ’Akka in a -southeasterly direction is Mount Carmel, immediately to the south of -which are the hills of Samaria. Rising from the southern border of -Esdraelon, and stretching southward thirty-three miles, they terminate -in Ebal and Gerizim, where the chain is broken for the third time by -the Plain of Mukhnah. Beyond this vale are the mountains of Ephraim, -extending to Bethel, where the Heights of Benjamin begin, which extend -to the valley of the Kedron. Here the ridge takes the name of the “Hill -Country of Judea,” running in a wide, low, irregular mountain tract -to the southern limit of Palestine. Excepting the promontory of Carmel, -the southern section of the Lebanon range is farther removed from the -sea, leaving at its base a maritime plain more than 150 miles long, -embracing the beautiful Sharon on the north, and the Land of Philistia -on the south. - -Twenty miles to the east of the Lebanon, and at the “entering of -Hamath,” the anti-Lebanon chain begins, running parallel to the former -in a southwestern direction. Though of less general altitude than -its companion ridge, it includes Mount Hermon, 10,000 feet high, and -rivaling in the grandeur of its form and the sublimity of its scenery -the loftiest peaks of Syria. Thirty-three miles south of Hermon the -eastern range sweeps round the Sea of Galilee, taking the name of the -Mountains of Gilead along the east bank of the Jordan, and the names of -Ammon and Moab along the shore of the Dead Sea, and finally terminating -with the hills of Arabia Petra at the head of the Bay of Akabah. - -Next to these mountain chains, the most remarkable feature in the -physical geography of Palestine is the great valley, which, commencing -amid the ruins of ancient Antioch, runs southward between the two -parallel ridges of Lebanon and anti-Lebanon. Measuring more than 300 -miles in length, and being from seven to ten miles broad, it serves as -the bed of the Orontes, the Litâny, and the Jordan. Bearing the name of -Cœlesyria, its southern section has an elevation of 2300 feet above the -sea; but from its westerly branch, through which the Leontes flows to -the village of Hasbeiya, it rapidly descends, and at its intersection -with the Plain of el-Hûleh, a distance of less than twenty miles, -_it is on a level with the sea_. At the Lake of Tiberias it has a -depression of 653 feet, and reaches its greatest depth in the chasm of -the Dead Sea, the surface of whose waters is 1312 feet below the level -of the Mediterranean. - -To the cursory observer there is an air of extravagance in the -inspired descriptions of the Promised Land. Dwelling with delight upon -the fruits of the soil, the pleasures of the climate, and the grandeur -of the scenery, the poets and historians of the Bible ascribe to it a -marvelous fertility, and in their glowing encomiums other lands sink -into insignificance when compared to the favored inheritance of Jacob, -and even the rich valley of the Nile is to be cheerfully exchanged -for the rich hills and valleys of Palestine.[6] Such was to be its -richness, that from the “cattle on a thousand hills,” and from the -thymy shrubs and the numberless bees inhabiting its venerable forests, -it was to be “a land flowing with milk and honey.”[7] Such was to be -its fruitfulness, that the “threshing was to reach unto the vintage, -and the vintage reach unto the sowing-time.”[8] - -Such was to be its metallic wealth, that it was to be “a land whose -stones are iron, and out of whose hills thou mayest dig copper.”[9] -Unlike Egypt, which is dependent upon the Nile for a supply of water, -it was to be a country superior in its mountain springs and in its -“early and latter rains.”[10] Repeating the eulogistic utterances of -Moses, and realizing the promises he had made, five centuries later -David sings, “The pastures are clothed with flocks; the valleys are -covered with corn; they shout for joy; they also sing. The Lord causeth -the grass to grow for cattle, and herb for the service of man, that he -may bring forth food out of the earth, and wine that maketh glad the -heart of man, and oil to make his face to shine.”[11] - -But, whatever may have been the appearance of Southern Palestine in -those distant ages, it appears at present, especially its mountain -regions, to be little better than a vast limestone quarry, covered with -small gray stones, offensive to the eye, painful to the foot of man and -beast, and seemingly incapable of a harvest. An aspect so sterile and -forbidding induced the author of “The Decline and Fall of the Roman -Empire” to institute the comparison that “Palestine is a territory -scarcely superior to Wales either in fertility or extent.”[12] -Conceding this apparent barrenness, the causes of the change which -has taken place in the lapse of so many centuries are at once natural -and miraculous. The frequent changes of government, the rapacity of -officials, the insecurity of property, the religious animosity of rival -sects, the barbarian ignorance of the peasantry as to the enlightened -principles of agriculture, together with a moral degradation -universally prevalent, are adequate causes, when operating during a -long series of years, to change the face of any country, and doom it to -almost irreclaimable barrenness. It is also true that the destruction -of the woods of any section on the earth’s surface, and particularly -the trees on the mountain-tops, which invite and arrest the passing -clouds, tends to the diminution of rain and to the consequent evils of -the drought. The condition of Germany since the disappearance of its -great forests, and of Greece since the fall of the large plane-trees -which once shaded the bare landscape of Attica,[13] illustrates the -fact that where the land is denuded of its herbage and foliage, which -casts a cooling shade upon the ground, the scorching rays of the sun -penetrate more certainly and intensely, promoting evaporation, causing -the springs and fountains to fail, and at the same time increasing the -absorbent capacity of the soil;[14] but where the valleys are clothed -with verdure, and the mountains with forests, a larger quantity of -moisture is retained in the ground, a lower temperature exists in -the atmosphere, and the clouds are drawn to the spot in obedience to -meteorological laws.[15] To Titus belongs the shame of having stripped -the hills about Jerusalem of their magnificent olive-groves, and, -from the destruction of the Holy City to the present century, Southern -Palestine has been a vast common for the marauding and predatory bands -of Saracens and Persians, of Mamelukes and Turks, whose innumerable -herds and flocks have wandered at liberty over gardens and fields, -through groves and forests, consuming and destroying both plants and -trees, and thereby diminishing the usual quantity of rain in the proper -seasons. - -While to every candid mind such are sufficient causes for this -apparent sterility, yet to the Christian a miraculous interference -with the ordinary course of nature for the attainment of a moral end -is an additional consideration why Palestine is not now what it was in -the days of Moses and David. Assuming to exercise a special care over -the land, Jehovah represents himself as sending and withholding rain -according to the obedience or disobedience of his chosen people: “Thou -hast polluted the land with thy wickedness, therefore the showers -have been withholden, and there has been no latter rain.”[16] “I have -withholden the rain from you when there were yet three months to the -harvest; and I caused it to rain upon one city, and caused it not -to rain upon another city.”[17] Hazardous as it would seem, in human -estimation, to suspend the continuance of rain and national prosperity -upon the continued faithfulness of human beings, yet it most evidently -appears that, so long as the Jews remained faithful and obedient as -a nation, just so long, and no longer, was their land blessed with -prosperity; and, whenever they became guilty of defection, the rains of -heaven were withheld, and their land became desolate. The evil, however, -experienced by the present tiller of the soil is not the want of rain, -but rather its proper distribution. Whatever effect the denudation -of the country of its foliage may have had to diminish the vernal and -summer showers, it is a remarkable fact that it rains more copiously in -Syria than in the United States; but, commencing in November, the rainy -season continues only till February, while during the eight or nine -succeeding months there is scarcely a shower falls. Such an unequal -distribution of rain could not fail to injure the most fertile portions -of the globe.[18] - -Though unquestionably true that the structure and composition of -the soil for miles around Jerusalem must always have been essentially -what it is now, of a rough limestone nature, and as such it must have -appeared in the palmiest age of the Jewish commonwealth, yet in those -happier days, under a mild and an enlightened government, no part was -waste; the more fertile hills were cultivated in artificial terraces, -others were covered with orchards of fruit-trees, while the more -rocky and barren districts were converted into vineyards. But in the -process of time the terraces which supported the soil upon the steep -declivities have been destroyed, and the accumulated earth has been -swept away by the rains, leaving naked hills “where once grew the corn -and crept the vine.” - -Those who quote Gibbon against Moses and David with so much triumph, -should also cite pagan authors of higher antiquity and of equal -authority in their favor. In his description of Jericho, Strabo speaks -of “a grove of palms, and a country of a hundred stadia full of springs -and well-peopled.” According to Tacitus, “the inhabitants of Palestine -are healthy and robust, the rains moderate, and the soil fertile.” -Ammianus Marcellinus is even more explicit than his predecessors: -“The last of the Syrias is Palestine, a country of considerable extent, -abounding in clean and well-cultivated land, and containing some fine -cities, none of which yield to the other, but, as it were, being on a -parallel, are rivals.”[19] - -Regarding it as a valuable accession to their dominions, Palestine -was a prize for which the Assyrians and Egyptians, the Greeks and -Romans, the Persians and Saracens, fought to conquer and retain. To -each it was the “diamond of the desert;” and coveting the fruits of -the soil, and sighing for the delights of the climate, they each in -turn also contended for the advantages its central position afforded -as a military station between the east and west, the north and south. -Charmed with its gardens, the fascinating Cleopatra induced Antony to -take from Herod the Great the noble plain of Jericho and annex it to -her dominions, that she might possess the celebrated balm and the other -valuable drugs and fruits it then produced.[20] Delighted with its -fertility, its opulence, and populousness, Chosroes of Persia aspired -to its permanent conquest; and, a quarter of a century later, the -Saracens feared to have Omar see Jerusalem, lest the richness of the -surrounding country and the purity of the air might tempt him never to -return to the holy city of Medina. As significant of its fruitfulness, -both Vespasian and Titus caused medals to be struck on which Palestine -is represented by a female under a palm-tree; and there are medals -still extant on which Herod is represented as holding a bunch of grapes, -and the young Agrippa as displaying fruit.[21] - -Confirming alike the testimony of both sacred and profane writers, -there are still two traces of the ancient productiveness of the soil. -On the plains, in the valleys, upon the hills, every where, from the -river to the sea, from “Dan to Beersheba,” are ruins――broken cisterns, -prostrate walls, crumbling terraces, and old foundations, indicating -the greatness of an earlier population, and the abundant harvests which -supported the millions once dwelling within these narrow limits. These -silent but unmistakable indications of the populousness of a former age -are more significant than the testimony of Tacitus and Josephus. Though -wanting the air of grandeur of the ruins of Thebes and Palmyra, yet -there is the vineyard tower, the peasant’s cottage, the streets, the -walls, the dwellings of the once large and thriving village; and on the -hillside and in the field is seen the ruined sheepfold, the wine-press, -the ancient oil and flour mill; while along all the highways, and -in many a retired valley, are water-tanks and reservoirs now dry and -broken. Neither in Egypt nor in Greece is the aspect of desolation more -complete. In the one and in the other are the remains of mighty cities, -with their stupendous temples and magnificent palaces; but here, in -close proximity, as one might expect to find in a country of shepherds -and husbandmen, is the mound of ruins, the forsaken village, the -desolate city. - -Like the remains of those ancient habitations, there are still -evidences, in the present capacity and products of the soil, sustaining -the claim that the Holy Land was once a land of “wheat and barley,” -of “wine and oil.” As of old, the Plain of Jericho repays the toil of -husbandry, and only requires proper tillage to make it “even as the -garden of the Lord.” For many miles around Joppa the Plain of Sharon -is a vast and beautiful garden, yielding the most delicious oranges, -lemons, plums, quinces, apricots, and bananas. In the Vale of Eshcol -and on the Heights of Urtâs are produced the finest grapes in the world; -while around all the larger towns of Philistia, and in the environs of -Hebron, Bethlehem, Jerusalem, and Gibeon, are the largest and richest -olive-groves, fig and almond orchards in the East. - -Though forbidding in aspect and apparently hopelessly sterile, yet, -considering the nature of the soil, the kind of crops it is best -adapted to produce, and the crude husbandry here practiced, the flinty -region of Southern Palestine is equal in productiveness to many of -the best portions of Europe and America. All that can be reasonably -demanded of a country is to yield in fair proportion, with ordinary -appliances, the indigenous fruits of the climate. The mountain tract -from Shiloh to Hebron is the proper region for the olive and the vine, -and one acre of the stony surface of Olivet, planted with olive-trees -and carefully tended, would yield more through the exchanges of -commerce toward human subsistence than a larger tract of the richest -land in New York planted to corn. While corn is simply an article -of food, the olive berry subserves a variety of purposes. Besides -being used by the natives for food, and, as such, in large quantities -exported to other countries, it contains a delicious oil, which, -in domestic life, is the substitute for butter and lard, and in -manufacture is employed in making soap and candles, and for lubricating -machinery.[22] While, as in the days of the Psalmist, the olive and the -grape, together with wheat, barley, and corn, are the staples of life, -yet there are here annually raised in great abundance cauliflowers, -cabbages, radishes, lettuce, beans, peas, onions, garlic, carrots, -beets, leeks, lentiles, celery, parsley, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, -pumpkins, together with the egg-plant and sugar-cane. There are also -cultivated, in all their deliciousness, figs, apricots, peaches, plums, -oranges, lemons, citrons, limes, mandrakes, pomegranates, apples, -pears, dates, bananas, quinces, cherries, watermelons, muskmelons, with -almonds, pistachios, and walnuts. In many northern districts cotton -and tobacco are extensively cultivated, while in all sections herds of -cattle and flocks of sheep and goats are raised for food and raiment. -Possessing a climate marked with the peculiarities of the three zones, -and yielding annually such harvests of grains and fruits for the -sustenance of more than a million and a half of people, the Promised -Land, under an enlightened Christian government, might be restored to -its original fertility and pristine beauty. - -Whatever apology is necessary for the vindication of the sacred writers -as to the southern portion of their native land, none, however, is -needed to sustain them in their loftiest praises of all their ancient -territory north of the ruins of Bethel. While in the south “Judah -washed his garments in wine and his cloths in the blood of grapes,” -in the north the powerful house of Joseph had the “precious things of -heaven and the precious things of the lasting hills.” Beyond the tribal -possessions of Benjamin the soil is no less rich than the scenery is -grand; within the inheritance of Ephraim, the Plain of Mukhnah and the -Vale of Shechem resemble vast gardens, while the mountains and valleys -of Samaria, the plains of Sharon and Esdraelon, and the fields and -hills of Galilee, stretching from the lakes to the sea, pronounce their -own eulogy. - -An elegant writer has justly observed that “Syria unites different -climates under the same sky, and collects within a small compass -pleasures and productions which nature has elsewhere dispersed at -great distances of time and place. To the advantage which perpetuates -enjoyments it adds another, that of multiplying them by the variety of -its productions.”[23] - -Though lying within the same parallels of latitude with Washington -and New Orleans, yet, owing to its peculiar geological structure and -configuration, the climate is essentially different. On the higher -slopes of Lebanon the summer months are cool and pleasant as on our -native Catskills, but in the deep valley of the Jordan, and on the -shores of the Dead Sea, the heat is as intense and debilitating -as on the plains of Southern India. Along the sea-board the same -variety prevails. Where the high mountains crowd down upon the coast, -reflecting the light and heat of a Syrian sun, the region is sultry and -unhealthy, but where the mountains retire and the soil is dry the air -is pure and delightful. - -Properly speaking, there are but two seasons in Palestine, -appropriately described in that sublime repetition――“winter and summer, -cold and heat, seed-time and harvest;” but on the mountain range the -four seasons are distinctly perceptible. Though the loftier summits -of Lebanon are covered with snow the year round, yet frost and ice are -only occasionally seen in the vicinity of Jerusalem. While in summer -a gentle breeze from the Mediterranean plays over the central ridge -from morning till night, at other seasons of the year the winds blow -a tornado. Sand-storms arise, blinding to the eyes, and rendering -near objects indistinct; hail-storms are frequent and violent, and, as -of old, the “south wind” blows, lasting for many days at a time, and -frequently assuming all the dreadful characteristics of the sirocco. - -Commencing with the beginning of November, the winter rains continue -with short intervals until March, when spring wears her floral mantle, -and, casting its ample folds over the Land of Promise, hides its -otherwise rougher features; then follows the long rainless summer, with -transparent atmosphere and hazy skies alternating, and with intense -heat, parched soil, and streams few and scanty, which is succeeded by -autumn, with its red and golden vintage, and atmosphere of unsurpassed -balminess. - -But spring is the most delightful season of the year in the Holy -Land, whether to enjoy the pleasures of the climate or behold the -magnificence of the scenery. Then the skies are bright, the air balmy, -and the vernal sun lights up the landscape with a thousand forms -of beauty. Then sparkling fountains are unsealed, silver brooks go -murmuring by, and wild cascades, leaping from their rocky heights, come -dashing down the mountain side, scattering in their descent wreaths of -rainbow spray. Then the valleys and the hills are clothed with verdure, -the fields are green with grains and grasses, the fig and palm-tree are -in blossom, the almond, apricot, olive, and pomegranate are ripening, -and the cypress, tamarisk, oak, walnut, sycamore, and poplar are -decked with the clean fresh foliage of a new year. Then herds of camels -and buffaloes are browsing on the meadows, and flocks of sheep and -goats go gamboling up the mountain sides. Then, in all the glens, on -all the vast prairie plains, and over all the highest mountains are -flowers blooming――anemones, oleanders, amaranths, arbutuses, poppies, -hollyhocks, daisies, hyacinths, tulips, pinks, lilies, and roses, -growing in unbounded profusion, delighting the senses, and transforming -the land into a garden of flowers. - -But whatever is beautiful in the scenery of Palestine is peculiar to -the north. In the south there is a sameness of outline and of color -that wearies the eye and makes one sigh for variety; but north of the -mountains of Ephraim the beholder is charmed with green plains and -fertile valleys, with wooded dells and graceful hills, with rippling -brooks and sylvan lakes, with leaping cascades and rushing rivers, with -sublime chasms and profound ravines; and with lofty mountains, broken -into beetling cliffs and craggy peaks, whose higher summits are capped -with perpetual snow, and down whose furrowed sides rush a thousand -torrents. There the most fastidious taste would be delighted with -the wild mountain gorge encircling Tirzah, and the wilder chasm of -el-Hamâm――with the beautiful glen of el-Haramîyeh, and the more lovely -Vale of Abilîn――with the woodland parks of Carmel and Tabor――with the -crystal lakes of Merom and Gennesaret――with the foaming, rapid waters -of the Jordan, the Leontes, and the Adonis――with Mount Hermon, with -summer at his feet, spring in his lap, and winter on his head――and with -the magnificent scenery of Kadîsha, where the Syrian Alps lift their -awful forms 13,000 feet high, covered with snow 100 feet deep――where -the melting snows feed cascades, which in their descent are beaten into -spray by the rocks, and which, reflecting the sunlight, seem like the -infinite fragments of some gorgeous rainbow――and where rills from the -hills and torrents from the mountains unite to swell the river below, -which, after winding through the noblest and wildest of nature’s chasms, -whose sides are lined with shrubbery, adorned with hamlets, and dotted -with convents high up in the everlasting rocks, and whose solemn bells -awaken the echoes of Lebanon, pours its accumulated waters into the -Western Sea. - -If the standard of landscape beauty be the regular alternation of plain -and mountain, as in Greece and Italy; the clean meadows, the well-made -farms and green hills, as in France and England; or the continent-like -prairies, the miniature seas, and multiform mountains of America, then -the Land of Promise must yield the palm to those more highly-favored -countries. But if the combination of all these characteristics on a -smaller scale constitute the beautiful and grand in natural scenery, -Palestine is not unworthily praised by the sacred writers for the -variety and magnificence of its landscape. - -Viewed from such a stand-point, the Holy Land is a world in miniature, -possessing the three great terrene features of the globe――sea-board, -plain, and mountain. Yielding the fruits of every climate, and -containing a population corresponding in their physique to that of -the inhabitants of every zone, there is displayed in this variety of -scenery and climate the wisdom of God. Selected by Providence to be the -medium of divine truth to men of all lands, it was necessary that the -national home of the Bible writers should open to their imaginations -the most wonderful and varied of the works of the Creator. Naturally -inclined to express our adoration of the Deity in allusions to his -wisdom and goodness displayed in nature, we experience a unison of -devotion with those who were the oracles of inspired truth to us in -their sublime illustrations, drawn from the sea and land, the valleys -and hills, the climate and fruits, and the beasts and birds of the -country that gave them birth. Had they dwelt at the poles, or on the -equator, or in the heart of Arabia, or on the banks of the Nile, they -could not have given the same universality of expression to the message -they were sent to announce. It is evidence of the presence of that -All-wise Spirit that the prophets and psalmists, the Savior and the -apostles, drew their simplest, noblest figures from nature, such as can -not fail to arrest the attention of the untutored mind in every land, -and inspire intellects of the highest culture with admiration. - -Who of all the great maritime nations of earth can fail to appreciate -the Psalmist’s description of his native sea, as from its shore, or -from some mountain-top, he beheld its wonders: “O Lord, how manifold -are thy works! in wisdom hast thou made them all; the earth is full -of thy riches; so is this great sea, wherein are things creeping -innumerable, both small and great beasts.”[24] And who that has ever -crossed the ocean, or witnessed a storm at sea, does not realize the -perfection of his description: “They that go down to the sea in ships, -that do business in great waters, these see the works of the Lord, and -his wonders in the deep; for he commandeth and raiseth the stormy wind, -which lifteth up the waves thereof: they mount up to heaven, they go -down again to the depths; their soul is melted because of trouble.”[25] -The mountaineer feels that the Psalmist sings of - - “What oft was thought, but ne’er so well expressed,” - -when he describes, “The high hills are a refuge for the wild goats, and -the rocks for the conies.”[26] The dweller at the poles is conscious -of a fellow-feeling when he reads those sublime words: “He giveth snow -like wool; he scattereth the hoarfrost like ashes: he casteth forth ice -like morsels: who can stand before his cold?”[27] - -The nomad of the desert finds his own country portrayed in the graphic -allusions to a “dry and thirsty land where no water is;”[28] to the -“shadow of a great rock in a weary land;”[29] and feels himself kindred -to the patriarchs in his predatory life.[30] They that dwell upon the -equator comprehend that grand but terrific passage descriptive of the -earthquake and volcano, “He looketh on the earth, and it trembleth; -he toucheth the hills, and they smoke.”[31] And to the denizens of all -lands are familiar those impressive references to the sun, moon, and -stars; to the “thunder of his power;” to the “lightnings that lighten -the world;” to the storm of hail and rain; to the shepherd on the -mountain, to the husbandman in the field, and to the merchant in the -marts of commerce. - -But the correspondence between the prophetic descriptions of the -several tribeships, as given by Jacob and Moses, and the land as -it now appears, is even more exact; and in recalling the former and -in surveying the latter, one knows not which to admire most, the -adaptation of the soil for various products, or the unanswerable -argument afforded for the inspiration of those who wrote. In the final -and permanent division of the territory the portion fell to each tribe -by lot, just as Jacob had foretold in the last moments of his life, -250 years before, and just as Moses had predicted immediately prior -to his demise. Though it was not possible for the former, with his -extraordinary powers of observation and penetration, to have passed -and repassed through the whole length of the land without observing -the peculiarities of each section, and though equally impossible for -the latter, with his capacious mind, and with the means of information -at his command, to have remained ignorant of the chorography of the -several parts, yet the knowledge of those eminent men had no influence -upon the ultimate settlement of the tribes. Human foresight is never -equal to the uncertainties of the lot; only superhuman knowledge can -foretell to whom the lot will fall. In their prophetic visions they -saw the Land of Promise mapped out into tribal possessions, and on each -they read the name of the future inheritor. Years after, when the lots -were drawn by Joshua and Eleazer at Shiloh, each tribe received its -portion exactly on the spot which had been foretold. - -Pre-eminently pastoral, Reuben, Gad, and the half tribe of Manasseh -received the vast pasture-fields of Ammon, Gilead, and Bashan, -extending from the River Arnon on the south to the base of Hermon on -the north, and from the Jordan on the west to the desert of Arabia and -the Haurân on the east. Called by the Arabs Belka, they can pronounce -no higher praise upon its rich plains and green sloping hills than in -their pastoral proverb to declare, “Thou canst not find a country like -the Belka.” Deprived of the “excellency of dignity”――the priesthood; -of the “excellency of power”――the kingdom; and of the “double portion” -of wealth and temporal blessings which, by the rights of primogeniture, -belonged to the first-born son of Jacob, here, between the Arnon and -the Jabbok, Reuben was “unstable as water” in the rapid diminution of -his numbers, and in being the first of the tribes to be carried into -captivity by Tiglath Pileser of Assyria;[32] and never producing a -great man to honor his name, and never rising to dignity and influence -in the councils of the nation, here also a father’s curse was fulfilled, -“Thou shalt not excel.”[33] His tribeship extending from the Jabbok to -the Sea of Galilee, and from the Jordan to the desert, and harassed by -the Arabian plunderers on his eastern border, but in turn driving them -from his dominion, it was said of Gad, “A troop shall overcome him, and -he shall overcome at last.”[34] - -Occupying the Hills of Bashan, together with the rich and picturesque -regions along the eastern shore of Gennesaret as far north as Mount -Hermon, and rising to distinction in rank and numbers, and in giving -to the nation three eminent characters――“the pious Gideon, the opulent -Jair, and the valiant Jephtha”[35]――the prophetical benediction on -Manasseh was here accomplished: “He also shall become a people, and he -also shall be great.”[36] - -Omitted by Moses from the list of the blessed, and sentenced by -his father to be “divided in Jacob and scattered in Israel,” Simeon -occupied with Judah the extreme south; and in one generation after -the exodus from Egypt to Canaan his posterity had decreased more than -37,000 souls.[37] Destined to rule rather than to serve, to be cunning -rather than brave, “Dan shall judge his people; and he shall be a -serpent by the way, an adder in the path, that biteth the horse-heels, -so that his rider shall fall backward.”[38] Unable to subdue the -Philistines, whose lands were allotted to them from the Hills of -Judah to the Mediterranean, the Danites were compelled to conquer new -territory for their rapidly increasing numbers. Described by Moses -to be “a lion’s whelp,” and foretold by him that “Dan shall leap from -Bashan,” a colony of the tribe passed northward to the sources of the -Jordan, and, taking the city of Laish by surprise, 600 armed men, like -a young lion pouncing upon its prey, “leaped from Bashan,” captured and -burnt the town, and upon its ruins founded another city, calling it -“after the name of Dan, their father.” Thus, while at a later period -the southern branch of the tribe gave to the nation Samson, who “judged -Israel twenty years,” the new colony stamped its tribal name upon the -utmost limit of Palestine, which has since passed into the proverbial -saying, “From Dan to Beersheba.”[39] Foretold that “his eyes shall -be red with wine, and his teeth white with milk,” to Judah fell that -mountain region from Jerusalem southward to Arabia, and from the -Dead Sea to the hills which overhang the Mediterranean, and which for -vineyards and pasturage is unsurpassed in all the Holy Land. Here, -in the days of his prosperity, he was seen “binding his foal unto the -vine, and his ass’s colt unto the choice vine; and here he washed his -garments in wine, and his cloths in the blood of grapes.” Selected -to be the tribe whence the Messiah should come, “Judah, thou art he -whom thy brethren shall praise.” Ordained to retain his tribeship, -his ensigns, his government “until Shiloh come,” his home was amid -the fastnesses of the Judean Hills, from which, till the appointed -time, when God abandoned him to his enemies, he could not be dislodged. -Ascending to his mountain lair from the swellings of Jordan, “Judah is -a lion’s whelp: from the prey, my son, thou art gone up;” and after the -Ten Tribes had been scattered, and the identity of Benjamin lost, and -when the foe approached, the “Lion of the tribe of Judah,” confident of -his security, “stooped down, he couched as a lion, and as an old lion; -who shall rouse him up?”[40] - -By nature a martial people, cruel in war, and ambitious to be free, the -children of Benjamin received that wild highland tract from the Jordan -to Bethhoron, and from Jerusalem to Bethel. Here, on his impregnable -heights, with a courage, an independence, a ferocity, at one time -successfully resisting the combined attack of all the tribes, “Benjamin -shall raven as a wolf; in the morning he shall devour the prey, and -at night he shall divide the spoil.”[41] The Vale of Hinnom being his -southern frontier, Jerusalem originally belonged to Benjamin, but, -failing to dispossess the Jebusites, it was reserved for David, with -the warriors of Judah, to capture the strong-hold of Jebus, and elevate -it to the dignity of an imperial city.[42] It was to this proximity to -the Holy City that Moses refers in those remarkable words, “The beloved -of the Lord shall dwell in safety by him.” The Temple being Jehovah’s -dwelling-place, “The Lord shall cover or protect Benjamin all the day -long;” and as Zion represents the throne and Moses the church――God’s -two shoulders――“he shall dwell between his shoulders.”[43] There is an -air of freedom and an aspect of defiance about the bold, rugged summits -of Benjamin; and moulded among the crags of Gibeon and Gibeah, of -Ramah and Ophrah, of Geba and Michmash, and the mind partaking of the -features of the place of birth, it is no marvel that this tribe gave -to the nation Ehud, the judge;[44] Saul, the king;[45] Jonathan, the -warrior;[46] the inflexible Mordecai,[47] the resolute Esther,[48] and -the heroic Paul.[49] - -Rewarded for the most exalted virtues, and possessing the privileges -of the birthright which had been transferred from Reuben, the powerful -house of Joseph, represented by the tribe of Ephraim and the half tribe -of Manasseh, received the heart of Palestine――the garden of the Holy -Land. Stretching its verdant lines from the waters of the Jordan along -the northern boundary of Benjamin to the Mediterranean, and with the -river on the east and the sea on the west, it extended northward to the -Plain of Esdraelon, including the Hills of Samaria. Eminently deserving -the benedictions of two worlds, Joseph was blessed with unbounded -goodness by his dying father and by the Prophet of Abarim. Promised -a numerous posterity, in two and a half centuries from the time -Jacob placed his hands upon the heads of Ephraim and Manasseh, his -descendants had increased to nearly half a million of souls.[50] -“Joseph is a fruitful bough――even a fruitful bough by a well, whose -branches run over the wall;”[51] and in anticipation of the fact, -Moses breaks forth in that sublime strain, “They are the ten thousands -of Ephraim, and they are the thousands of Manasseh.”[52] Occupying a -section of land on both sides of the Jordan, the present richness of -which is beyond dispute, Joseph had “the precious things of heaven -from above”――gentle showers, a serene sky, a sublime atmosphere; “the -blessings of the deep that lieth under”――the springs and wells,[53] -“the precious fruits brought forth by the sun,” which come to -perfection once a year; “the precious things put forth by the -moon,” such as mature in a month; “the chief things of the ancient -mountains”――the forests that cover their summits; “the precious things -of the lasting hills”――the metals and minerals which abound within them; -“and his glory is like the firstling of his bullocks, and his horns are -like the horns of unicorns”――the inspired symbols of his strength, -sovereignty, and renown.[54] - -Agricultural in his taste and habits, to Issachar fell the immense -and rich Plain of Esdraelon, including the mountains of Carmel, Gilboa, -and Tabor. Patient in labor and invincible in war, but weary in bearing -such burdens, like the overloaded ass lying down with the two panniers -on his back, “Issachar is a strong ass couching down between two -burdens.” Charmed with his possession, and unable to expel the powerful -Canaanites from all his plains and mountains, but convinced that peace -with taxation was better than war, “He saw that rest was good, and -the land that it was pleasant, and he bowed his shoulder to bear, and -became a servant unto tribute.”[55] Valiant in arms when the tyranny -of Sisera became intolerable, “The princes of Issachar were with -Deborah;”[56] and having broken the power of a flaunting foe, “Issachar -shall rejoice in his tents.”[57] - -Chosen to be the maritime tribe of the nation, the portion of Zebulun -extended from the Lake of Gennesaret on the east to the Mediterranean -on the west, and trafficking on both waters, “Zebulun shall dwell -at the haven of the sea, and he shall be for an haven of ships.”[58] -As Issachar was to rejoice in his “tents”――in the abundance of his -harvests, “so Zebulun was to rejoice in his going out”――in his -successful voyages. By a mutual interest in agriculture and commerce, -both were to “suck of the abundance of the seas;” and manufacturing -glass from the vitreous sand found on the Mediterranean coast, or -exporting it in large quantities to other countries, both were to -grow rich from the “treasures hid in the sand.” Dealing largely with -the Gentiles, who were attracted to their shore and inland cities by -commercial interests, these favored tribes “shall call the people unto -the mountain; there they shall offer sacrifices of righteousness.”[59] - -Though doomed to obscurity in the annals of national greatness, yet, -as if by way of compensation, Asher obtained the fruitful plain -of Accho, “the key of Palestine,”[60] extending from Mount Carmel -to Zidon on the coast. By the richness of the soil, “His bread -shall be fat, and he shall yield royal dainties;”[61] and possessing -luxuriant olive-groves, “He dipped his foot in oil.”[62] Promised -to be “blessed with children,” the descendants of Asher numbered, on -entering Canaan, 267,000 souls;[63] and on the accession of David to -the throne, the tribe sent an army of 40,000 troops to acknowledge -the new sovereign.[64] Subject to the sudden attacks of the plundering -Phœnicians, whose territory they occupied, and compelled at all times -to be upon their guard, armed with their metallic greaves and sandals, -“Thy shoes shall be iron and brass; and as thy days, so shall thy -strength be.”[65] Though the Asherites gave Israel neither king, judge, -nor warrior, yet the names of two illustrious widows shine out from the -general obscurity――“Anna, a prophetess, the daughter of Phanuel, of the -tribe of Aser, which departed not from the temple, but served God with -fastings and prayers night and day;”[66] and the “widow of Sarepta, a -city of Sidon, unto whom Elijah was sent.”[67] - -Celebrated for their activity, bravery, and independence, and -represented in the prophetic symbols by a tree planted in a rich soil, -and growing to a prodigious size, Naphtali received “Galilee of the -Gentiles,” whose fruitfulness of soil is only excelled by the beauty -of the scenery: “Naphtali is a spreading oak, producing beautiful -branches.”[68] Foreseeing the prosperity awaiting him, in an eloquent -apostrophe Moses addressed the tribe: “Oh Naphtali, satisfied with -favor, and full with the blessing of the Lord, possess thou the west -and the south.”[69] Embracing within his possession the green hills -and valleys of “Upper Galilee,” together with the Sea of Tiberias, his -posterity grew rich from the fruits of the one and the products of the -other. But, reserved for a higher glory and assigned a more exalted -destiny, the inheritance of Naphtali remained undistinguished for any -great event till the dawn of our own era. Driven from his native city, -our Lord chose Capernaum as his chief residence, situated within this -tribeship.[70] Here was his home during the three most eventful years -of his life; here the Galileans received him gladly; here is the scene -of his greatest miracles and of his most touching parables; here, -on the shore of its inland sea, were born most of his apostles; here -he founded his infant church; and thus enlightened in the persons of -the first Christians and earliest teachers of Christianity, Naphtali -possessed the “west and the south” by the spread of the Gospel among -the southern tribes, and by its more general diffusion over the -“Great Sea” through Europe and America. And now, after more than three -thousand years, each tribal possession retains its ancient physical -characteristics, yields its former agricultural products, while -prophecy has become history in the fortunes and destiny of the whole -nation. - - - - - CHAPTER II. - - Location of Jerusalem. ―― Strong defensive Position of the City. - ―― Surrounding Hills and Valleys. ―― Its Situation compared to - that of Athens and Rome. ―― True Meaning of the 125th Psalm. - ―― Tower of Psephinus. ―― The two Valleys. ―― Height of the - adjacent Mountains. ―― A City without Suburbs. ―― Modern Wall. - ―― Goliath’s Castle. ―― Immense Stones of Solomon’s Age. ―― - Ancient Portals. ―― Beautiful Corner-stone. ―― Pinnacle of - the Temple from which Christ was tempted to throw himself. - ―― Golden Gate. ―― Tower of Antonia. ―― Objection to Prophecy - answered. ―― The Bevel the Sign of Jewish Masonry. ―― Great - Cave beneath the City. ―― Wanderings by Torchlight. ―― - Solomon’s Quarry. ―― Tyropean Valley. ―― Five Hills of - Jerusalem. ―― Mount Zion. ―― Royal Abode. ―― Herod’s three - Towers. ―― Splendid Church of St. James. ―― House of Caiaphas. - ―― Scene of the Last Supper and of Pentecost. ―― Tomb of David. - ―― Royal Plunderers. ―― Proof of its Antiquity. ―― Home of the - Lepers. ―― Sad Sight. ―― Akra. ―― Bezetha. ―― Napoleon’s Church. - - -ON the southern section of the Lebanon range, in N. lat. 31° 46′ 45″, -and in E. long. 35° 13′ from Greenwich, stands the memorable city of -Jerusalem. Elevated 2610 feet above the level of the Mediterranean, -and 3922 above the River Jordan, it is thirty-three miles from the -former and sixteen from the latter. Situated on a mountain summit, -the crown of which is broken into a wilderness of bleak limestone -peaks, divided by numberless ravines, it is by nature one of the most -strongly fortified cities in the world. Occupying the summits of five -hills, it is encompassed, except on the north, by deep valleys, which -in the earlier stages of military science must have been formidable -obstructions to an assailing foe. That well-known passage in the Psalms, -“As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so is the Lord round about -his people,”[71] most evidently includes the valleys that circumvallate -the platform on which the city is built, as well as the surrounding -mountains. Indeed, there is but little difference in the altitude of -Olivet and Moriah, of the Hill of Corruption and Mount Zion. In the -olden times, when an invading foe approached the walls of a town with -towers, battering-rams, ballistas, and catapults, an intervening valley -was a more serious obstacle to encounter than a mountain to be scaled, -especially as it served as a fosse, in crossing which the besiegers -were exposed to the arrows of the besieged, who crowded the ramparts -above. Approach Jerusalem from the north, west, or south, and the city -rises above the hills that environ it, its embattled towers, graceful -minarets, and swelling domes standing out against the sky as against -a background. In this regard it is not unlike the Acropolis of Athens, -which, rising like a thing of life from the Attic plain, has Lycabettus, -the Pnyx, the Museum, and the Areopagus near, and Hymettus, Pentelicus, -Mount Parnes, and Ægaleos in the distance; but it resembles more truly -Rome, sitting on a cluster of hills, with an ample plain for future -expansion, with hills near and mountains distant, the Janiculum -answering to Olivet, and the Apennines to the Heights of Moab.[72] - -To reconcile this passage with the topographical facts as they appear -to every observer, some have pointed to the white mountains of Tîh -on the south, to the wall-like ridge of Moab on the east, and to the -rugged summits of Lebanon on the north; but it is simpler and more -natural to suppose that the Psalmist had in his mind Olivet, the -Mount of Corruption, and the Hill of Evil Council, rising from the -two valleys which, like some deep moat, circumvallate the city on the -east, south, and west; referring not so much to the height of the hills -above the level of the city, as to their height from their valley beds, -in which their everlasting bases rest. But on the north there is no -such natural obstruction to impede the advance of an enemy. The ground -rises gently to the summit of Scopus, which is a western projection -of the Olivet ridge, a mile distant from the town, and which gradually -disappears toward the west. To strengthen by art what nature had left -defenseless, the celebrated tower of Psephinus was erected at the -northwest corner of the ancient wall, which, being 70 cubits high, -was not only a “tower of strength,” but also afforded from its top -at sunrise a view of Arabia and of the sea. - -Less than two miles to the northwest from Jerusalem are two slight -depressions, separated by a rocky swell three quarters of a mile in -width. The one on the north is the head of the Valley of the Kidron. -At first a gentle depression, it runs eastward a mile and a half; then -turning suddenly southward, it contracts and deepens, and becoming -precipitous in its course, sweeps round the bases of Bezetha, Moriah, -and Ophel, joining the Vale of Hinnom at the beautiful Gardens of -Siloam. Varying in depth and breadth, it is seventy-five feet deep -at the northeast corner of the city, twenty-five deeper opposite -St. Stephen’s Gate, and reaches its greatest depth of 150 feet at the -southeast angle of the Temple area. Varying in breadth from a hundred -to a thousand feet, it is narrowest opposite the southeast corner of -the town, and has its greatest breadth between Moriah and Olivet, on -a line drawn from the Golden Gate. - -The depression south of the rocky swell is the commencement of -the Valley of Hinnom, which at first is almost imperceptible; but, -deepening and contracting as it winds round the western side of the -city, it runs for three quarters of a mile east by south to the Yâffa -Gate, where it turns at right angles round the base of Mount Zion, -having broken cliffs on the right, and shelving banks on the left. -Running nearly due east for half a mile, it joins the Valley of the -Kidron at the Pool of En-Rogel, where these two famous valleys become -one, pursuing its sinuous course to the Dead Sea. Though but 44 feet -deep near the Yâffa Gate, and 500 wide, it descends to the depth of -more than 500 feet below the southern brow of Zion, and is broadest -at the point of conjunction with the Kidron. From the beds of these -valleys rise the defensive mountains around the Holy City. Though the -lowest is less than 50 feet above the average level of the town, and -the highest not more than 200, yet the triple summit of the Mount -of Olives is more than 400 feet above the site of “Absalom’s Pillar” -in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the Mount of Corruption is 422 feet -above En-Rogel, and the Hill of Evil Council rises 500 feet above the -scorched rocks that line its base in the Vale of Gehenna. - -Occupying the southern portion of its ancient site, and surrounded, -as in former days, with a massive wall, Jerusalem is a city without -suburbs. Unlike the approach to Zidon on the coast, which is in the -midst of groves of fig, orange, and mulberry-trees, covering many miles -in extent; unlike the approach to Damascus, which is inclosed with -gardens of exquisite beauty, through which the Abana flows in “pearly -brightness and perennial music the livelong day,” the approach to -Jerusalem is arrested by high walls and guarded gates, beyond which -are no habitations excepting the wretched huts of Silwân on the -south, clinging to the rocky fastnesses of the Mount of Scandal. Being -a capital city, and situated in the most turbulent district of the -country, such a defense is necessary as a protection against the sudden -attacks of the wild Bedouins of the Desert and of the Ghôr. Strongly -fortified in the time of Jebus, when captured by David, its enlarged -area was afterward protected by massive walls and towers, on which the -sacred poets dwell with so much religious pride and delight.[73] In the -days of our Lord there were two walls――one inclosing Mount Zion, the -northern section of which extended a distance of 1890 feet east and -west; the other, inclosing Mount Akra, extended from the Garden Gate -in the first wall to near the present Damascus Gate, and, curving to -the southeast, intersected the Tower of Antonia on Mount Moriah. Mount -Bezetha, with the table-land beyond, then formed the suburbs of the -town; but after the crucifixion the space was inclosed by a third wall, -by order of Herod Agrippa. During the bloody wars occurring between -the death of Solomon and the Egyptian conquerors, the walls were -alternately demolished and rebuilt by the respective captors of the -city; but it was not till the year 1542 A.D. that, by order of the -Sultan Suleiman I., the present single wall was built. Having been -constructed out of the old materials, it contains blocks of stones -representing every age of the city, from the magnificent reign of -Solomon to the fluctuating rule of the Crusaders. - -The modern wall is of the common gray limestone of Palestine, formed -of blocks of different dimensions, and ranging in thickness from ten -to fifteen feet, and from twenty-five to forty in height, according to -the nature of the ground. Being two and a half miles in circumference, -it is less by two miles than the circuit of the ancient wall. Having -many indentations and projections, with salient angles, square towers, -loopholes, and battlements, it is surmounted with a parapet, protecting -a pathway which is frequently thronged with people enjoying the fine -promenade and beholding the commanding prospect. - -At the northwest corner of the city, which is 251 feet higher than the -southeast corner of the Temple area, the native rock has been cut away -to the depth of many feet on the outside of the wall, while within are -massive foundations of beveled stones bearing marks of high antiquity, -and now called “Goliath’s Castle.” At this point the western wall -begins, running southeast as far as the Yâffa Gate; then, turning -southward, and crossing Mount Zion along the brow of Hinnom to a point -nearly opposite to the Protestant Cemetery, it joins the south wall, -which, by a series of zigzags, is carried eastward over the level -summit of Zion, down its eastern declivities, across the Tyropean -Valley, and up the Hill of Ophel, where it joins the Haram wall -550 feet from its southeast corner. Here are huge stones as old as -the days of Christ, if not as old as the reign of Solomon. At the -place of junction where the city wall joins that of the Haram, there -is a section of an ancient arch, beneath which is a small grated window -opening into that long subterranean avenue leading up an inclined plane -and a flight of steps to the Temple area. Here also are three circular -arches, now walled up, twenty-five feet high and fourteen wide, marking -the ancient portals leading to those stupendous vaults constructed by -Solomon to elevate the side of Mount Moriah to a common level. At the -southeast corner of the Haram wall there are sixteen courses of large -stones, some of them measuring nineteen feet long, four high, and eight -thick, and bearing on their edge the unmistakable Jewish bevel. From -the natural topography of the hill, this corner of the wall must occupy -the same spot on which stood the earliest wall, as it stands on the -very brow of the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and there can be no doubt but -that these are the identical stones laid down by Solomon himself. Here -is to be seen a beautiful specimen of a “precious corner-stone,”[74] -the inspired symbol of a virtuous and lovely woman,[75] and a -significant type of the Messiah.[76] The material employed is a finer -limestone and otherwise of a superior quality to that used in the -common wall; the joints are more closely formed; and the finishing of -the facing and of the beveling is so clean and fine, that, when fresh -from the hands of the builder, it must have resembled gigantic relievo -paneling. Surmounting this corner of the wall, no doubt, stood that -pinnacle of the Temple from which Satan tempted Christ to cast himself -down, assuring him of the charge of angels over him.[77] According -to Josephus, “a broad portico ran along the wall, supported by four -rows of columns, which divided it into three parts, forming a triple -colonnade.” The central portico was 100 feet high, which, with the -height of the wall and the depth of the valley below its base, gave an -elevation of 310 feet. “And if from the top of the portico the beholder -attempted to look down into the gulf below, his eyes became dark and -dizzy before they could penetrate to the immense depth.”[78] - - Illustration: IMMENSE STONES OF SOLOMON’S AGE. - -From this corner to the Golden Gate, a distance of more than 1000 feet, -is one unbroken line of wall, composed mostly of large rough stones, -interspersed with which are fragments of antique columns. Near the top -of the wall, and projecting several feet, is a round porphyry column, -on which, according to a Moslem legend, Mohammed is to sit astride -and judge the world, the people having been assembled for judgment in -the vale below. Overlooking the Kidron, and facing the Mount of Olives -beyond, is the Golden Gate, now walled up, but which attracts the -traveler’s attention by its conspicuous location and its uncommon -beauty. Being the centre of a projection fifty-five feet long, and -standing out six feet, it consists of a double portal, spanned by -two semicircular arches richly ornamented. From what resemble corbels -spring two Corinthian capitals, sustaining an entablature bending round -the entire arch. Within the gate is a noble chamber fifty-five feet -square. The ceiling is divided into flattened domes, supported by -arches springing from side pilasters, and from two Corinthian columns -of polished marble, adorned with elegant capitals; and beneath the -arches a pretty entablature is carried from pilaster to pilaster, -giving an air of exquisite beauty to the entire structure. - - Illustration: GOLDEN GATE――INTERIOR VIEW. - -The origin of this imposing gate is unknown. It may be as old as -the time of Herod the Great; it may not be older than the reign of -Constantine. Impressed with its beauty, some have regarded it as -occupying the site of the “Beautiful Gate” at which Peter and John -healed the cripple. That, however, was a gate of the Temple; this is a -gate of the city; and the two can be identical only by supposing that -“gate to the Temple” is synonymous with “entrance to the Temple,” which -is neither supported by fact nor analogy. - -Near St. Stephen’s Gate, a distance of less than 500 feet to the north, -is the northeast angle of the Haram wall, and unquestionably is the -original angle of the wall which inclosed the Temple area. Five courses -of antique stones distinctly beveled, beautifully hewn, and of great -dimensions, remain _in situ_, and are as entire as when laid there by -the hand of the Jewish mason. The largest of the blocks is twenty-four -feet long, three high, and over five wide, at once reflecting the -wealth and mechanical art of that early age. This section of the wall -projects eight feet, forming a corner tower eighty-four feet long; and -the five courses of stone, measuring nearly twenty feet from the base -to the top of the quoins, suggest that this was one of the bastions of -the famous Tower of Antonia in which Pilate held his “Judgment Hall.” -But to suppose the antiquity of these stones, and that they occupy -their original places, is regarded by some as a confutation of our -Lord’s prediction, “There shall not be left one stone upon another -that shall not be thrown down.”[79] Reference, however, to the prophecy -in all its scope, will disclose the fact that Christ spoke of the -stones of the Temple, and not of the stones composing the wall of -the city; and both history and research now prove how terribly have -been fulfilled his fearful and exact words. The manner in which these -lower layers have been preserved intact is simple and natural. In the -demolition of the walls of the city by Titus and also by subsequent -conquerors, the lower courses escaped notice, having been buried up -in the débris of the upper layers; and in the reconstruction of the -wall by Suleiman I., he permitted them to remain undisturbed in their -primeval beds. The modern portions of the wall are too heterogeneous -in their character and of too mean a masonry to have any claim either -to antiquity or to Jewish workmanship, and the upper and lower layers -no less mark two distinct periods of national history than two eras in -mural architecture. The former indicate an age of weakness and poverty, -the latter of power and wealth; the one discloses haste and confusion, -the other deliberation and artistic accuracy; the modern is in keeping -with the art and taste of the sensual Moslem, the ancient is in harmony -with the pride and genius of the Jew. Nor is there any reason for -supposing the lower layers to have been the work either of the Romans -or of the Saracens, as the bevel is the masonic sign of the Jewish -builders, and, having originated with them, it was a peculiarity of -their architecture[80]. Consisting of a narrow strip along the edge of -the stone, cut down half an inch lower than the rest of the surface, -which had been hewn and squared, the bevel was a simple and beautiful -mural ornament; and when these beveled stones were laid up in a wall, -such as encompassed the city in the days of Solomon, the depressed -edges must have resembled grooves or lengthened lines, producing the -appearance of immense panels. - -But of all the objects of interest which met my eye during my tour -of the walls, none was more thrilling than the “Great Cave” beneath -Jerusalem, the entrance to which is just east of the Damascus Gate. -In constructing the north wall of the city, the Hill Bezetha has been -cut through the solid rock to the depth of forty feet, the excavation -having been extended 600 feet east and west, and 450 north and south. -Lower down, and near the base of the rock on which the wall stands, -is what might have been designed for a fosse, but which is now the -receptacle of carrion. The existence of a “Great Cave” beneath the -city, and in some way connected with the Temple of Solomon, has been -the subject of a legend familiar to the aged, but the entrance to which, -if known to the living at all, remained a secret with the few till -accidentally discovered through a missionary’s dog.[81] Attracted to -the spot by the scent of the bones of animals destroyed by jackals, -the dog pushed away the dirt in pawing to reach his prey, and revealed -to his master one of the greatest wonders connected with a city whose -history and topography have engaged the attention of the learned in all -ages. - -Accompanied by the American consul and a single servant, we entered the -cave without difficulty, and, lighting our wax tapers, proceeded along -carefully for a hundred feet, when we began rapidly to descend. To our -surprise, on our right sat an Arab maiden who had become the sibyl of -the cavern, surrounded by several natives, to whom she was delivering -her sibylline oracles. Rapidly descending toward the southeast, we -soon found ourselves in a cave three thousand feet in circumference, -more than a thousand feet in length, and more than half that distance -in breadth. The air was damp; the darkness that of a rayless night; -the ground on which we walked was strewn with the chippings of the -quarrier; the walls around us were marred with marks of the chisel, and -the ceiling above us adorned with stalactites of a rose-color hue, from -which trickled the percolating waters of the city; while, disturbed by -our approach, bats screamed their grief and flapped their long black -wings against their solid nests. Moving southward, we came to the verge -of a precipice a hundred feet across and fifteen feet deep, on the -bottom of which the skeleton of some lost explorer had been found. -Threading a long gallery on the left, we saw a fountain as deep as it -was wide, partially filled with water strongly impregnated with lime. -Turning eastward, we entered a second gallery of greater depth, in -the sides of which are immense blocks of limestone, in part detached -from their native bed, just as they were left by the unknown quarrier -thousands of years ago. Here, as elsewhere, were the unmistakable -marks of a broad chisel-shaped instrument, evidently used to detach the -blocks on either side and at top and bottom, and then by the pressure -of a lever the mass was broken off from the rock behind. Occasionally -we passed huge pillars supporting the ceiling above, and in several -instances saw blocks hewn and squared ready to be hoisted to their -destination. On the right and left winding passage-ways led us to -noble halls, white as snow, and supported by native piers, on which are -engraven the cross of some Christian pilgrim or knight of the Crusades; -and on the sides of the chambers are Hebrew and Arabic inscriptions, -the memorial of some wandering Jew and some conquering son of the -Prophet. - -Seeking in vain for an entrance other than that on the north, we -returned to daylight full of curious thoughts. What tales of woe are -written on these walls! and, could we hear their voices, too low for -mortal ear, what secrets would they reveal! In the time of sieges this -has been the retreat of Jew and Christian, of Saracen and knight; the -last refuge of helpless womanhood, of tender children, of infirm old -age, and the death-bed of dying heroes wounded in the fight. - -Being unquestionably a quarry, many facts lead to the conclusion that -here were hewn the stones for the construction of Solomon’s magnificent -temple. The material, both as to grain and color, is the same as that -found in the antique walls and buildings of the city; the extent of -the quarry, together with the vast amount of stone removed, and in such -large blocks, suggest the erection of some grand temple; the ancient -tradition coming down from the days of Jeremiah and pointing to this -quarry; the remarkable absence of another adjacent to the city; and -the important fact that the mouth of the quarry is many feet higher -than the surface of the Temple area, which must have facilitated the -transportation of those immense blocks of limestone, which were no -doubt conveyed on rollers down the inclined plane of the quarry to -the site of the Temple, where, hewn and finished, they were silently -elevated to their destined place――the magnificent fane of Solomon, -with all its courts and porticoes, rising noiselessly into being, as of -old the world rose from naught, at once explaining and fulfilling the -words of sacred history: “The house, when it was in building, was built -of stone made ready before it was brought thither, so that there was -neither hammer nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard in the house while -it was building.”[82] - -Nothing more impressively indicates the complete destruction of ancient -Jerusalem than the impossibility of identifying with exactitude the -location of its former gates, the scene of so many thrilling events. -Fire and sword, plunder and time, have removed those landmarks of -great historic deeds. These gone, we are left to conjecture as to the -location of the “Valley Gate,” through which Nehemiah passed on his -nocturnal exploration to ascertain the condition of the city;[83] -of the “East Gate,” from which Jeremiah went forth with the ancients -of the people to the Valley of the Son of Hinnom, to illustrate the -destruction of the Jews by breaking in their presence a potter’s -vessel;[84] of the “Horse Gate,” out of which the ambitious Queen -Athaliah was led to execution;[85] of the “Gate betwixt the two -walls,” “whence Zedekiah and all his men of war fled before the King -of Babylon;”[86] and of the “Gate of Benjamin,” where the king sat when -the kind Ebed-Melech, the Ethiopian, interceded in behalf of Jeremiah, -then in a loathsome dungeon beneath the royal palace.[87] - -Of the seven gates which penetrate the walls of modern Jerusalem, the -noblest and most ancient of the number is the one standing in the mouth -of the broad depression sweeping southward through the city, called -the Damascus Gate. Surmounted with turrets and battlements, it not -only presents an imposing appearance, but its ornamental architecture -indicates its Saracenic origin and style. Judging from the formation of -the ground it occupies, it probably marks the site of an older gateway. -As of old, so now, from its portal runs the great northern road to -Nablous; and from it, no doubt, Saul of Tarsus went forth, leading his -band of persecutors to crush the infant church of Jesus in Damascus. -Constructed in the form of an elliptical arch, flanked with massive -towers of great antiquity, and inclosed with huge doors incased with -iron, it wears the appearance of a prison. Within is a large chamber, -grim and gloomy, formed by the arch and towers, and from which a -square-shaped and winding staircase leads to the top of the parapet. -Guarded by four Turkish soldiers, the traveler has illustrated before -him St. Luke’s description of the Roman guard on the night of our -Lord’s trial: “And when they had kindled a fire in the midst of the -hall, and were set down together, Peter sat down among them.”[88] In -the northeast corner of the hall, within the gateway, the soldiers -build a fire of juniper coals when the weather is cold, the smoke of -which deepens the gloom of the already blackened walls. - -Midway between this gate and the northeast corner of the city is the -“Gate of Flowers,” consisting of a small portal penetrating a tower, -but which is now inaccessible, having been walled up since 1834. In -the eastern wall of the city is St. Stephen’s Gate, a simple structure, -and without ornaments, except the carved figures of two lions over -the entrance. From it a path descends the steep sides of Moriah, and, -crossing the small stone bridge that spans the Valley of the Kidron, -leads up to the Garden of Gethsemane and to the Mount of Olives. -Compelled to fly before the rebellious Absalom, it was out of the -gate that stood on the site of the present one that David fled, and, a -thousand years later, a greater than David went forth out of the same -portal on the night of his betrayal. As it is the chief entrance to the -city on the east, streams of pilgrims from the Heights of Benjamin on -the north, and from the Valley of the Jordan on the east, incessantly -flow in and out of this well-known gate. - -Situated in the southern wall, nearly in the centre of the Tyropean -Valley, is the “Gate of the Western Africans,” which is of inferior -construction, and is opened and shut according to the caprice of the -governor. Fortunately, it was opened when I passed, an event which may -not occur again for many years. From it a path descends to the charming -gardens of Silwân. On the summit of a ridge beyond is the Gate of -Zion, the cleanest and most quiet of the seven. But the great and most -usually thronged portal of the town is the Yâffa Gate, located in the -western wall of the city, between Mount Zion and Mount Akra. Consisting -of a massive square tower, it has a quadrangular hall within. Probably -standing on the site of Nehemiah’s “Valley Gate,” it is the point to -which all the great thoroughfares converge, from Bethlehem and Hebron -on the south, and from Yâffa on the west. Carefully guarded during the -day by a band of soldiers, all the gates are closed at night when the -evening gun is fired. From a superstition as suggestive of fear as -it is precautionary against surprise, the gates are closed on Friday -between the hours of twelve and one, because of an old and prevalent -tradition that on that day and at that hour the Christians will attempt -to retake Jerusalem. - -Running north and south through the very heart of the city is a broad -depression, and coming up from Siloam, on the south, is the Tyropean -Valley, joining the former at the northeast corner of Mount Zion, where -the latter abruptly diverges to the westward, intersecting the Valley -of Gihon. Upon its divergence hangs the long and fierce controversy -touching the topography of the ancient city. Though its upper section -is filled with rubbish from twenty to fifty feet deep, yet there is -a perceptible ascent from Christian Street to the Hippic Tower, as -there is a descent from the Yâffa Gate into the valley beyond. If the -intervening ridge is not accumulated earth, it is difficult to conceive -how Mount Zion could ever have been the “strong-hold” represented by -sacred and profane writers. The construction of the three famous towers -on the northwest portion of the hill by Herod the Great was not to -supply a natural defect, but to honor the king’s favorites, and to -be the depositories of his royal treasures. As recent excavations in -the vicinity confirm the correctness of the supposition, so future -excavations will remove the last doubt that this is the “Valley of the -Cheesemongers” described by Josephus, separating the “upper city from -the lower.”[89] - -As of old, Jerusalem stands upon five hills, formed in part by valleys -without the city, and by depressions within. Though, when viewed from -within the town, their altitude is not great, yet in their general -outlines all are distinctly defined. Of these hills, covering an area -of four and a half miles in circumference and half a mile in diameter, -Zion, Moriah, and Ophel are mentioned by the inspired historians, while, -together with the former, Akra and Bezetha are described by Josephus. -Rising in the form of a parallelogram, Mount Zion is the largest of the -five sacred hills. Attaining an average height of more than 500 feet -above the surrounding valleys, its southern and western sides are as -rugged as they are steep. Though lower than the northwest corner of -Akra, yet, when viewed either from the Tyropean or the Hinnom valleys, -the bold brow of Zion is seen to best advantage, justifying the -confidence reposed in it as a strong defensive position. Sloping down -toward the King’s Gardens, where three valleys meet, its southeastern -sides are terraced from base to summit, and planted with corn and -olives, fulfilling the words of the prophet, “Zion shall be plowed like -a field.”[90] Directly opposite the Haram, the naked rocks rise from -the “Vale of the Cheesemongers” more than thirty feet high, and on the -verge of the precipice once stood the “House of the Mighty.” Less than -half the hill is included within the present walls, occupied by the -Citadel, the English Church, the American Consulate, the Post-office, -the Prussian Hospital, the Church of St. James, the Jewish Synagogue, -private residences, and the Lepers’ Quarters; while beyond the walls -are the Diocesan school-house, the Armenian Convent, the Tomb of David, -and the Protestant Cemetery. - -Emotions of joy and sadness are awakened as one stands upon the site -of those great historic events which have filled the world with their -renown, and impressed their inevitable results, for “weal or woe,” upon -the opinions and actions of mankind. As the religious sensibilities -of our nature are most susceptible of excitement, so no spot on earth -excites the mind to the same degree as where the events of sacred -history occurred. Around Mount Zion cluster memories of human shame -and glory. Here the defiant words of the Jebusites kindled the martial -soul of David, who, summoning all his military skill and courage for -the attack, captured the “stronghold of Jebus.” Here he reigned for -thirty-three years in unrivaled wealth and glory, and here he penned -many of his sublime psalms. Here the ruder palace of the father gave -way to the grander palace of the son. Here, in regal magnificence, -unequaled in the annals of kings, Solomon held his court, displaying a -wisdom as vast as his wealth was exhaustless, and achieving for himself -a name that was borne to the uttermost parts of the earth in accents -of praise and gladness. Here, for a thousand years, their descendants -reigned in power and glory; and here, on the very summit of their -pleasures and greatness, they, with fourteen of their successors to -the throne, were entombed. Here stood the palace of Caiaphas, in whose -judgment-hall Jesus was tried and Peter swore. To gratify personal -ambition, and perpetuate the memory of his royal favorites, here Herod -the Great reared those three massive towers which were the pride and -admiration of the triumphant Titus. Calling one Mariamne, in honor of -his queen, whom he afterward slew in a passion of jealousy, he named -the second Phasaëlus, after his friend, and the third Hippicus, in -memory of his brother, both of whom were slain in battle, fighting in -his behalf.[91] - -Of these towers but one remains, that of Hippicus, which is the citadel -of the modern town. Spanning the moat is an old bridge leading to the -castle. Several flights of stone steps lead to the parapet, on which -a number of guns are mounted, fit only for firing occasional salutes, -and from the top an extraordinary view is gained of Jerusalem and -its environs. Aside from its dingy appearance, Hippicus is invested -with thrilling associations. With an antiquity unquestioned, the most -reliable authorities agree that it occupies its ancient site. As it -now stands, it represents two great eras in the world’s history――that -of Herod and that of the Crusaders; the foundations belonging to the -former, the superstructure to the latter. Composed of a group of square -towers, it resembles a quadrangle, though not a perfect square, its -sides varying from sixty to seventy feet in length. The tower next to -the Yâffa Gate is the most interesting, as it is the most ancient. The -height of the antique portion, from the bottom of the broad fosse, is -forty feet, and, being entirely solid, it has for nineteen centuries -resisted the battering-rams of the Romans, the cannon of the Egyptians, -and the prying curiosity of the modern explorer. Recent excavations -have shown that for several feet upward from its base the foundation -is formed of the natural rock, hewn into shape, and faced with immense -stones, distinctly beveled, indicating their Jewish origin, and -evidently remaining where they were originally placed. In addition -to its antiquity, this tower is of great importance, as it marks the -starting-point of the first and second walls of the ancient city, and -unmistakably points out their general direction. - - Illustration: MOUNT ZION AND TOWER OF HIPPICUS. - -Leading from the Hippic Tower to the south wall of the city is a -spacious and grand avenue. On its western side are the _Caserne di -Sion_ and the residence of the Armenian patriarch; opposite are the -English Church and the Armenian Convent. The entrance to the convent -is through a large but simple portal, opening into a court around which -rise the dormitories, capable of accommodating 8000 pilgrims. Adjoining -the monastery is the Church of St. James, the most sumptuous building -of the kind in the East, and, next to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, -the largest religious edifice in Jerusalem. Belonging formerly to -the Georgians, who failed to pay the enormous tax levied upon it, it -was sold to the Armenians in the fifteenth century. The interior is -gorgeous to a fault. The floor is inlaid with rich mosaics; the pillars -supporting the roof are incased with tiles of blue and green porcelain, -and ornamented with gilded crosses, and the walls are decorated with -pictures of the Byzantine school. The high altar is indescribably -grand, adorned with silver vases filled with flowers, with pictures -representing scriptural scenes, and with golden lamps suspended from -the ceiling. - -But the chief attraction of the church is the chapel of St. James, -marking at once the scene of his martyrdom and the place of his -burial. All that affection could suggest, art produce, and wealth -procure, adorns this splendid mausoleum. The doors are enameled -with a mosaic-work of coral and mother-of-pearl, dazzling with their -brilliancy the eye of the beholder, and charming him with their -extraordinary beauty. The interior is faced with polished marble; -from the ceiling hang golden lamps, ever burning; while from a costly -censer incense ascends in perpetual memory of the sainted dead. - -Around this sepulchral church are lovely gardens, dressed and -beautified by the monks of Armenia, whose love for flowers and -trees is only excelled by the taste displayed in training them. From -these gardens an iron portal opens toward the Zion Gate, 100 yards -beyond which is the traditional House of Caiaphas, dating back in its -authentic history to the fourth century, and now a dependency on the -large establishment within the walls. Within this house is a small -cell, richly decorated with pearl and porcelain, in which Christ is -said to have been kept in durance the night previous to his crucifixion. -Near the prison is a marble statue of Jesus tied to the pillar of -flagellation, which devout women were approaching on their knees and -kissing; and just beyond is the legendary stone which closed the mouth -of our Lord’s sepulchre. - -Not far to the south is the Tomb of David, now a mosque, whose -graceful minaret never fails to attract the traveler’s attention as -he approaches the Holy City from the south. The edifice was once a -Christian church, and, besides covering the tomb of the renowned King -of Israel, contains the “upper room” where Christ ate the Passover -with his disciples,[92] and where he washed their feet;[93] where, -after his resurrection, the disciples were assembled with closed doors, -and, Jesus appearing in their midst, said, “Peace be unto you;”[94] -where the doubting Thomas was permitted to thrust his hand into the -Redeemer’s side;[95] and where, on the day of Pentecost, the apostles -received the Holy Ghost.[96] The “upper room” is a large chamber, -fifty feet long and thirty wide, with ribbed ceiling and pendents. Its -appearance indicates great age, and though, through neglect, it wears -a dreary aspect, it is so firmly built that, without violence, it will -stand for a thousand years to come. In the middle of the fourth century -it was regarded by Cyril, then Bishop of Jerusalem, as the scene of the -Pentecost, and a few years thereafter it was seen by Epiphanius, who -declared it one of the few buildings which had escaped destruction when -Titus captured the city. Whether this is the “guest-chamber” where so -many great events occurred or not, Zion is the designated place whence -were to go forth the conquering forces of the Messiah: “Out of Zion -shall go forth the law, and the word of the Lord from Jerusalem.” -Zion was always the place of convocation, and the only one in the Holy -City, excepting Mount Moriah, where great assemblies could gather; -and somewhere on its broad summit the representative Jews out of all -nations were in solemn convocation when, “hearing a sound from heaven -as of a rushing mighty wind,” the vast multitude came together, unto -whom the promise of the Spirit had been made.[97] In the east end of -the room is a small niche where it is said Christ sat at the “Last -Supper,” and where the Latin monk now sits when, at stated periods, he -is permitted to celebrate mass within its consecrated precincts; and -here, in imitation of our Lord, the Franciscan monks wash the worn feet -of the pious pilgrim, who, from the uttermost parts of the earth, has -come to worship at these holiest of earthly shrines. - -Beneath this mosque is the reputed Tomb of David. Of its antiquity -there can be no doubt, as no historic fact is better attested; of its -identity there is no dispute, as Jews, Christians, and Moslem revere -it as only second in holiness to the site of the Temple. At all hours -of the day venerable Jews and beautiful Jewesses may be seen there, -silently standing at its closed portal, as if half expectant that their -Great King will again awake to power, and vindicate their rights. With -undying affection the Jews have ever regarded the sepulchres of their -fathers, and Nehemiah assigned as a reason for his sad countenance in -the presence of Artaxerxes “that the place of my fathers’ sepulchres -lieth waste, and the gates thereof are consumed with fire.”[98] And -when that noble prophet returned to his beloved Jerusalem, he completed -the wall which Shallum had commenced, extending it “unto the place over -against the sepulchres of David, and to the pool that was made, and -unto the house of the mighty.”[99] - -According to Josephus, Solomon interred his father here “with great -magnificence, and with all the funeral pomp which kings used to be -buried with;”[100] and deposited immense wealth within the tomb, -which remained undisturbed through all the revolutions of the kingdom, -down to within 150 years of the Christian era. Driven by the stern -necessities of war, Hyrcanus, the son of Simon Maccabeus, and successor -of his father to the high-priesthood, plundered the royal vault, -extracting therefrom the enormous sum of 3000 talents of silver, which -he gave to Antiochus Pius to raise the siege of Jerusalem and grant him -terms of peace.[101] - -Finding the treasure in an adjoining vault, Hyrcanus did not approach -the dust of David; but years later, hearing of the success of the son -of Simon, and wanting means to complete his magnificent works in the -city, Herod the Great made a similar attempt; but failing to discover -the treasure, he essayed to enter the very chamber which contains the -bodies of David and Solomon, and was only deterred in the consummation -of his purpose by the accidental death of two of the guard, who were -killed by a flame suddenly bursting upon them.[102] - -In his interpretation of the Messianic prophecies, on the day of -Pentecost St. Peter refers to this venerable monument, declaring -that “his sepulchre is with us unto this day.”[103] At the close of -the twelfth century, one of the walls of the building covering the -tomb gave way, and, in order to repair it, the patriarch of the city -commanded his workmen to take stones from the original wall of Zion; -in gathering them, they uncovered the mouth of a cave; on exploring -it, they reached a large hall supported by marble pillars incased with -gold, and in it were two tablets, and on each lay a crown and sceptre -of gold. Near the sarcophagi were iron chests carefully sealed, and, -when they were on the point of opening them, a blast of wind issuing -from the cavern drove them back, throwing them senseless to the -ground. Recovering, they heard a voice commanding them to depart. On -reporting their adventure to the patriarch, he concluded that what -they had mistaken for tables were the tombs of David and Solomon, and -immediately ordered the vault to be closed. In 1839, Sir Moses and Lady -Montefiore were permitted, by paying an immense sum, to look through -the “lattice of a trellised door,” and behold the tombs of their -renowned ancestors.[104] Of the size and appearance of the sepulchre -it is impossible to speak with accuracy, as the fanatical Moslems, -who guard it with religious superstition, only suffer the traveler to -approach the outer entrance. Like most of the tombs of that age, it -is probably hewn in the solid rock, and decorated in a manner becoming -royalty; but of its proportions and grandeur the world must remain -in ignorance till the Holy City shall have passed into the hands of -Christians, when those of every faith shall be permitted to linger -around the dust of Israel’s great kings, who sleep in death amid the -scenes of their greatest glory. - -A few paces within the wall, and to the east of the Zion Gate, are -the “quarters of the lepers.” Though formerly excluded from the city, -they are now suffered to build their wretched huts along the wall. -In obedience to a law prevalent throughout the East, all lepers are -compelled to live together in three colonies, and it is a coincidence -no less singular than true that the cities in which these colonies -are located were the residences of three historic lepers――Naaman -of Damascus,[105] Gehazi of Nablous,[106] and King Azariah of -Jerusalem.[107] Numbering in all 200, those on Mount Zion are supported -by charity. Their homes are miserable huts, low, dark, and loathsome. -Allowed to marry only with each other, their offspring, when born, are -usually fair, and apparently healthy. Retaining their health and beauty -up to the period of puberty, the fatal disease, like a scrofulous spot, -then makes its appearance on a finger, on the nose, or on the cheek, -and, spreading over the system, it ultimately reaches some vital organ, -and the unhappy victim dies. - -Preparing their evening meal, men and women moved with feeble step from -hut to hut, exchanging articles of food, and also their rude cooking -utensils. Their garments were old and torn, their voices were dry and -husky, their faces were red like a coal of fire half extinguished, -their eyes swollen and restless, their hair was gone, their lips and -cheeks, nose and ears were corroded with ulcers, and the flesh of their -hands and arms had been eaten away, leaving the bone red and bare. - -Standing afar off, as in the days of Christ, they stretched out their -hands, and begged in tones so piteously that none could resist their -entreaties. In the plaintive accents of their native Arabic, they -hailed me, “Pilgrim, give me; for the Lord’s sake, give me.” Dropping -a few piastres in the folds of their infected robes, I hastened away, -hearing their tones of pity, and seeing their horrid forms in memory -days after the spectacle had been withdrawn. Alas for them to whom this -world is one great hospital, and life the vestibule of the grave! - -In a country where sanitary regulations are ignored, it is not strange -that such persons are allowed to marry and propagate their unfortunate -progeny. Their marriage, like that of idiots and lunatics, should be -treated by the government as a crime against humanity. Were marriages -among them prohibited, this leprous race would soon become extinct, -and society would be relieved of one of its worst maladies. In cases of -spontaneous leprosy the victim is banished from his home, and, becoming -a denizen of the infected quarter, he contracts matrimonial alliances, -and perpetuates the evil. Though the continuance of the disease is -mostly hereditary, yet occasionally it is contracted. While only the -proximate cause of leprosy has been determined, the Scriptures assume -it to be an evil inflicted upon the guilty for the commission of -heinous offenses against the divine law; and, if modesty permitted, it -could be easily shown that the unmentionable crimes too prevalent in -the East justly merit such a condemnation. Retaining all its ancient -characteristics, leprosy still infects the garments worn by leprous -persons, and also the stones and mortar of the buildings they occupy. -Two centuries ago, Calmet made the suggestion that the former was -caused by vermin infecting clothes and skins, and the latter was caused -by animalculæ which, like mites in cheese, erode the stones and mortar. - -Connected with Mount Zion on the north by a small isthmus is the Hill -Akra. Though not mentioned in the Bible by a name at present known, it -holds a conspicuous place in Jewish history as the scene of some of the -most fearful struggles between the defenders and the assailants of the -city. Called by Josephus the “Lower City,” to distinguish it from the -“Upper City,” situated on Mount Zion, it is described by him as being -separated from the latter by the Tyropean Valley, the buildings on the -two hills facing each other, and terminating at the intervening ravine. -At present Akra is a long, stony ridge of a gibbous shape. Extending -from the Yâffa Gate to the northwest corner of the town, and including -the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, it extends eastward -to the western wall of the Haram. It is now the Christian quarter of -the city, and the site of several fine convents. Though covered with -buildings, its gibbous form is perceptible, both in ascending from -St. Stephen’s Street, and also from the Yâffa Gate. Originally it was -crowned with a lofty rock, which proved such a strong position that -the Syrians under Antiochus Epiphanes successfully resisted the attacks -of the Jews for twenty years, and, after the enemy had been dislodged, -it “required the constant labor of all Jerusalem during three years to -level it” to its present height. - -Separated from Akra by a valley which the Asmoneans partially filled -up is the Hill Bezetha, a long, irregular ridge running north by west -from the Temple area. On the east it rises abruptly from the Valley of -Jehoshaphat, on the south it is separated from Mount Moriah by a deep -fosse, while on the north it has been cut into two parts by a broad -and deep excavation. When carefully compared, the two parts exactly -correspond. The north wall of the city crosses the southern half of -this ridge, and in the face of the opposite section is the famous -Grotto of Jeremiah. It was to inclose this entire hill, then extending -1000 yards north and south, and from 500 to 1000 east and west, that -Herod Agrippa built the third wall of ancient Jerusalem. Up to that -time it was the suburb of the city, and, though the last of the five -hills to become inhabited, it ultimately became the most populous, -receiving as its name Bezetha――“The New City.” It is now the Moslem -quarter of the town. On the traditional site of Herod’s palace -stands the Mosque of the Dervishes. True to their low conceptions -of architecture, the Mohammedan dwellings are destitute of taste and -design. On the northeast corner of this ridge there is a large area -devoted to pasturage, where the pasha’s elegant horses are kept. Not -far from St. Stephen’s Gate is the Gothic Church of St. Anne, recently -presented to the Emperor of the French by the Sultan for services -rendered during the Crimean War. It has been repaired by order of its -new proprietor, and around it the Latins are erecting a nunnery for the -“Sisters of the Sacred Heart.” - - - - - CHAPTER III. - - Mount Moriah. ―― Site of Solomon’s Temple. ―― Surrounding Walls. - ―― Great Fosse. ―― Pasha’s Palace. ―― Council Chamber of the - Jewish Sanhedrim. ―― Jews’ Place of Wailing. ―― Their cruel - Treatment. ―― Scene on Friday Afternoon. ―― Mournful Spectacle. - ―― High-priest. ―― Prophecy fulfilled. ―― Solomon’s Bridge. ―― - Its Antiquity. ―― Temple Area. ―― Tower of Antonia. ―― Shrines - within the Inclosure. ―― Imposing View. ―― Dome of the Chain. - ―― Mosque of Omar. ―― Its grand Exterior. ―― Its History. - ―― Its Portals. ―― Its magnificent Interior. ―― Sacred Rock - within the Mosque. ―― Traditions. ―― Scene of the Offering of - Isaac and of other Scriptural Events. ―― Mosque of El-Aksa. ―― - Its Interior and History. ―― Solomon’s subterranean Passageway. - ―― Extraordinary Workmanship. ―― Mosque of Jesus. ―― Solomon’s - great Vaults. ―― They reflect his Genius. ―― Evidence of their - Antiquity. ―― Solomon’s great Lake beneath his Temple. ―― His - Work. ―― Vicissitudes of Mount Moriah. - - -GREAT events monopolize great names. Originally the term “Land of -Moriah” was applied to Jerusalem and its environs, but in the lapse -of ages the name “Moriah” became more restricted, and is now employed -to designate the smallest of the five hills on which the Holy City -stands. Mount Moriah was formerly a continuation of the Bezetha ridge, -from which it is now separated by a deep fosse, traditionally called -Bethesda. Bounded on the west by the Tyropean Valley and the broad -depression coming down from the Damascus Gate, it has the Fosse of -Antonia on the north, the Valley of Jehoshaphat on the east, and Mount -Ophel on the south. Ophel is also a part of the Bezetha ridge. Its -summit is 100 feet lower than the top of Moriah, and is separated from -the latter by the Haram wall. Having a length of 1560 feet, it is 300 -wide from brow to brow. It is the fifth hill of the city, and is at -present terraced like Mount Zion, and planted with fruit-trees. In the -reign of Solomon it was included within the city walls, and after the -return of the Jews from captivity under Nehemiah it was occupied by the -Nethinims, or Temple servants. - -What is now known as the Temple area is a beautiful inclosure of -thirty-six acres, surrounded by a wall nine feet thick at the base and -three at the parapet, and ranging from fifty to eighty feet high on -the exterior, and from ten to fifteen on the interior, according to -the surface of the ground. It is composed of large blocks of limestone, -many of which are of great antiquity. The area being inclosed on the -east and south by the city walls, which have already been described, -it only remains to consider those on the north and south. - -A hundred feet south of St. Stephen’s Gate the north wall of the -Haram commences, running westward 1060 feet, nearly the whole of which -is encumbered with buildings clinging to the side and top. Judging -from the description of the extent and form of the Temple area as -given by Josephus,[108] this wall has been carried some 600 feet north -of the line of its original location. It is now penetrated by three -portals――the largest and most beautiful one is reached by a path from -St. Stephen’s Gate. Extending from this portal east and west is one of -the most remarkable excavations in Jerusalem, supposed to be the fosse -mentioned by Josephus for the defense of the Tower of Antonia.[109] -In length 460 feet, 130 broad, and seventy-five deep, its sides are -constructed of small stones covered with cement, suggesting that in -times of peace it served as a reservoir, and in war as a moat. In the -southwest corner are two high-arched vaults, extending side by side -under the modern buildings. Whether the water which supplied this -reservoir came from the clouds, or was conveyed by a subterranean -conduit from the Pool of Hezekiah, or from the aqueduct of Pontius -Pilate, is an undecided question. The fosse itself is one of the -greatest monuments of antiquity, pointing back to the days of national -grandeur, and to those sanguinary sieges when Antonia, rising from the -“abyss,” stood a tower of strength against the assaulting foe. - -Surmounting this wall on its western end, and extending a distance of -370 feet, is the Pasha’s Palace, a pile of irregular and ill-shaped -buildings externally, but containing within all the magnificence and -luxuries of an Oriental abode. From the Governor’s House the western -wall of the Haram runs southward 1528 feet, and is nearly hidden from -view by the structures built against it. Seven streets approach the -sacred inclosure from the west, having at their _termini_ as many -gates, most of which correspond in their location to the sites of the -ancient portals of the Temple. Attached to this wall, near the Gate -es-Silsilah, is the Hall of the “Turkish Divan,” which is identical -with the council-chamber of the Jewish Sanhedrim. It is a square stone -building, with arched ceiling and flattened domes, wearing the aspect -of great age, and without violence will endure for ages to come. Here, -in all probability, the apostles were arraigned for trial,[110] and -here “stood up Gamaliel, a doctor of the law, had in reputation among -all the people, and advised the council touching these men.”[111] - -Adjoining the building on the south is the “Jews’ Place of Wailing,” a -spot no less remarkable for its antiquity than for the touching scenes -which there transpire. It is reached by a narrow lane running out of -the Jewish Quarter, and consists of a small quadrangular area 112 feet -long, thirty wide, and is inclosed by common dwellings on the west -and the Haram wall on the east. Well paved and cleanly kept, it is so -secluded as to allow the worshipers to lament their departed national -greatness undisturbed. The chief attraction of the spot is the five -courses of large stones, bearing the well-known bevel, and remaining -_in situ_ where they were placed thousands of years ago. Time has -dealt gently with them, and, though slightly displaced by the shock of -earthquakes, and worn smooth by the kisses of pilgrims, they are well -preserved. - -Here, as before an altar, on each returning Friday the descendants -of Abraham assemble to bewail their once mighty but now fallen nation. -Proscribed by their Moslem masters, this is the nearest point of -approach to which they are allowed to come, and even for a boon so -humble Mohammedan cupidity demands an exorbitant sum. Unparalleled in -their history, seldom have a people been treated with such unmitigated -cruelty as the Jews. From the time of Adrian to the age of Constantine -they were expelled from Jerusalem, and it was only by the clemency -of the latter emperor that they were permitted to behold their native -city from the neighboring hills; and it was by bribing the Roman guard -that they at length gained admission to Jerusalem once a year, on the -anniversary of its capture by Titus, to weep over the ruins of their -fallen Temple. Though now suffered to dwell within the walls of the -city, it is instant death to a Jew to cross the threshold of the sacred -inclosure. From the beginning of the twelfth century it has been their -custom to linger around these ancient stones and make their complaint -to Jehovah. - - Illustration: JEWS’ PLACE OF WAILING. - -It was two o’clock on a lovely Friday afternoon when, for the first -time, I threaded the narrow streets leading to this mournful spot. -About seventy men and women of all ages were engaged in their devotions. -In their midst stood the high-priest, whose tall and majestic form -distinguished him from those around him, and whose open and intelligent -face was pale and sorrowful as he mingled his prayers and tears with a -people whose ruined fortunes he was powerless to retrieve. Accustomed -to see him, attended by his two sons, walking thoughtfully the streets -of what was once the imperial city of his fathers, I had become -familiar with his noble bearing and with the calm expression of his -Jewish countenance; but, moved by the reflections of his own powerful -mind, and touched with sympathy by the scene before him, he lifted up -his voice and wept. - -Around him were groups of his people, some of whom were standing, -some sitting, some kneeling, while others were lying prostrate upon -the stone pavement. Here sat a group of Jewish matrons, whose black -tresses time had whitened, weeping as if broken-hearted; there stood an -old man, leaning, like the patriarch Jacob, upon his staff, reciting, -with faltering voice, his complaint before the Lord. Nearer the wall -were men in the prime of life, absorbed in their recitations from the -Prophets; while along the whole length of the wall, with their sacred -books resting against it, were men and women of all ages, reading, -weeping, and ever and anon smiting their troubled breasts. - -In the northeast corner of the inclosure, half hidden by the pavement, -is one stone more sacred than the rest. Around it were gathered the -rich and elegantly attired mothers and daughters of Israel, waiting to -bow low and affectionately kiss the relic as a thing of love. - -Some, with a copy of Isaiah before them, audibly read, “Be not wroth -very sore, O Lord, neither remember iniquity forever; behold, see, we -beseech thee, we are all thy people. Thy holy cities are a wilderness, -Zion is a wilderness, Jerusalem a desolation. Our holy and beautiful -house, where our fathers praised thee, is burnt up with fire, and -all our pleasant things are laid waste. Wilt thou refrain thyself for -these things, O Lord? wilt thou hold thy peace and afflict us very -sore?”[112] Others, reading from the Psalms, would passionately break -forth, “O God, the heathen have come into thine inheritance; thy holy -temple have they defiled; they have laid Jerusalem on heaps. We are -become a reproach to our neighbors, a scorn and derision to them that -are round about. How long, Lord? wilt thou be angry forever? shall thy -jealousy burn like fire?”[113] - -It is the opinion of the Jews that this portion of the wall belonged -to the court of the Temple, and not to the Temple itself; but, in -conceding with them the great antiquity of these stones, and that they -remain intact, we do not thereby affect our Lord’s prediction touching -the destruction of Jerusalem. Josephus informs us that such was the -unevenness of Mount Moriah, that in laying the foundation of the wall -for the western court of the Temple it was necessary to lay it far -below the general surface of the ground, which is evident from the fact -that while the inside of the wall is only twelve feet high, the outside -is seventy feet high.[114] To this circumstance is due the preservation -of this wall as it was originally laid, and also to the fact that -the Romans, beginning their work of destruction within the area, -first removed the upper layers, throwing the broken fragments over the -outside, which, accumulating at its base, inhumed the lower courses, -and literally fulfilled the Savior’s words, “And shall lay thee even -with the ground.”[115] In every particular that fearful prediction was -fulfilled. The Romans cast a trench about the devoted city, keeping the -inhabitants in on every side; and such was the utter destruction which -followed their capture of the city, that, in the words of the historian, -“there was nothing left to make those that came thither believe it had -ever been inhabited.”[116] - -Owing to the rapid descent of the ground in the direction of the -southwest corner of the Haram wall, lower courses of stones are there -exposed to view. Measuring thirty-one feet in length, seven in width, -and five in height, the chief cornerstone is no doubt identical with -the one placed there by order of Solomon, and now marks the southwest -angle of the area which inclosed his Temple. Thirty-nine feet to the -north is the foot of the ancient bridge which once spanned the Tyropean -Valley. Viewed casually, these stones appear to have been pushed out -from their places by some violent concussion within, but, when examined -with care, they indicate the design of an architect, and the occupancy -of their original position. Consisting of three courses of huge stones, -projecting one over the other as they rise, they form the segment of -an arch. With their external surface hewn to a regular curve, they each -measure from twenty to twenty-four feet long, and from five to six high; -and extending along the wall about forty feet, they spring therefrom -nearly the same distance. From the apparent width of the valley from -this arch to the precipitous rocks on the eastern brow of Mount Zion, -this bridge was 350 feet long, and consisted of five arches, supported -by four intervening piers. - - Illustration: SOLOMON’S BRIDGE. - -Without giving us the date of its construction, Josephus speaks of this -bridge as existing in his day,[117] and the colossal proportion of the -remaining blocks, together with the manner in which they are dressed, -evince their great age, and also their Jewish origin. It is older than -Herod, as it is mentioned in connection with Pompey’s siege of the -Holy City, which occurred twenty years prior to the accession of the -Idumean.[118] It is not, therefore, unreasonable to suppose it as old -as Solomon, whose wonderful works have ever been the admiration of -mankind. Attended by a gorgeous retinue of princes and soldiers, he -often passed over it from his palace on Zion to the Temple of the -Highest on Mount Moriah; and to this magnificent structure the sacred -historian probably alludes, who, in describing the effect of Solomon’s -works upon the mind of the Queen of the South, declares that when -she beheld “the ascent by which he went up unto the house of the Lord, -there was no more spirit in her.”[119] Centuries later, it was no doubt -the way by which the Redeemer frequently passed from the Temple to the -“Upper City;” and when the day of retribution came, and the hour of the -destruction of Jerusalem drew nigh, the triumphant Titus stood upon one -of its remaining sections and addressed the infatuated Jews, appealing -to the remnant to spare themselves from farther carnage by submitting -to Rome. - -These mural examinations awakened a desire to stand, if possible, upon -the very site of Solomon’s Temple. This, however, was both difficult -and expensive. For many centuries the inclosure, together with the -Mosque of Omar, had been closed against all Christians, but, thanks to -the civilization of the West, the fanaticism of the East has yielded to -a superior power, and many places hitherto inaccessible are now open to -the Christian traveler. - -The Temple area is an oblong quadrangle, extending north and south -1600 feet, and more than 1000 east and west. Since the reign of Herod -the Great it has been enlarged, and now includes the space formerly -occupied by the Tower of Antonia. It is only on this supposition that -its present dimensions can be made to correspond with the measurements -of Josephus, who describes it to have been a square,[120] and such it -is if the above-mentioned space is excluded. If a line be drawn from -the south side of the Golden Gate, and at right angles to it, to a -point 150 feet north of the modern gate, called Bal el-Katanên, an -area is left for the Temple and its courts 1018 feet long and 926 wide, -which, in popular language, would be called a square, and to the eye -presents such a figure. - -On the space north of this imaginary line stood the famous Tower of -Antonia, constructed by Judas Maccabeus, or by some other member of the -Asmonean family, and which, at a subsequent period, was enlarged and -rendered exceedingly grand by Herod the Great, who called it Antonia, -in honor of Anthony, his benefactor. Quadrangular in form, it had a -tower at each angle, three of which had an elevation of 87½ feet each, -while the one at the southeast corner rose to the height of 122½ feet, -uniting in this structure the strength of a fortress with the splendor -of a palace. The interior was adorned with baths, courts, and porticoes. -In the very centre of the inclosure was an open space for encampments, -from which extended elegant passage-ways, connecting the tower with the -colonnades of the Temple. From a rock eighty feet high, situated in the -northwest corner, rose the Acropolis, seventy feet higher, which was -incased with polished stones. As this was the fortress of the Temple, -here was stationed the military guard; and, during the jurisdiction of -the Romans, it was the seat of public justice. On the exterior of the -present wall are two arches, now walled up, where the _Scala Santa_, -or Pilate’s Staircase, which led to his judgment-hall, formerly stood. -Regarding it with religious reverence, Constantine removed it to Rome, -where it was placed in the Basilica of St. John Lateran; and, believing -that it was once pressed by the Savior’s feet, the pious Catholic now -ascends it upon his knees. A few paces to the west of these arches, -and spanning the Via Dolorosa, is the _Ecce Homo_ arch, traditionally -marking the spot where Pilate, having brought forth our Lord, exclaimed, -“Behold the man!”[121] - -Yielding to the conquering arms of Titus, the Tower of Antonia was -taken by the Romans, who, razing it to its foundation, left it a mass -of ruins. Cutting away the Acropolis rock, they left but a projecting -fragment, now the site of the Pasha’s Palace. Removing the elegant -courts and porticoes to plant their engines of war against the Temple, -they cleared an area 500 feet long and 1000 wide, which is now in part -a scarped rock, and the rest is dotted with patches of grass. Inhumed -beneath the ruins lay the deep fosse, the foundation of the northeast -tower, and the base of the loftier tower at the southeast angle, all of -which remain to our own day, pointing to Antonia as one of the grandest -of human structures. - -Equally superstitious with the Latins and Greeks, the Moslems have -many shrines within the Temple area consecrated either to the memory of -their great Prophet, or to that of some eminent saint. Near a graceful -minaret, which rises from the scarped rock, is a small dome, marking -the spot where Solomon, after the completion of the Temple, stood and -prayed. Along the western side of the Haran are cloisters, with square -pillars and pointed arches, devoted to meditation and prayer, and to -the accommodation of dervishes, eunuchs, and serpent-charmers. In a -small room beneath one of the cloisters is the legendary iron ring to -which Mohammed tied his Alborak on the night of his ascension. - -In the centre of the oblong area within the walls is a raised platform -fifteen feet high, 550 long north and south, and 450 wide east and west. -It is paved with Palestine marble, and reached by eight flights of -stone steps, spanned by light Saracenic arches. Ascending the platform -by the northern steps, we lingered for a moment to enjoy a scene of -extraordinary beauty. On either side rose massive walls, with parapet -and tower; beneath the platform, and extending to the farthest verge -of the inclosure, were fields of grass adorned with flowers; decked in -all their vernal beauty were sombre olives, lofty palms, and graceful -acacias, and near them were marble fountains sparkling in the morning -light; beneath the trees white-veiled women reclined, and turbaned -Turks moved softly through the foliage; around the platform rose airy -arches; on it stood elegant pulpits, carved niches for prayer, and -miniature cupolas of faultless symmetry; while from the very centre -rose the Mosque of Omar, enameled with tiles of intricate patterns and -of variant hues, reflecting the colors of the rainbow, and surmounted -with that dome of domes, resplendent with the early light. Secluded -from the outer world, peace reigned within, and no sound was heard -save the solitary call of the muezzin from the balcony of a neighboring -minaret. Among the minor objects of interest within the Haram is the -Kubbet es-Silsilah――“the Dome of the Chain.” Situated twenty feet -east from the great mosque, it is a small fane of rare beauty. From -seventeen slender marble columns spring semicircular arches, supporting -a dome of great elegance, which is adorned with porcelain of different -colors and curious devices. According to the legend, here Mohammed -obtained his first view of the enchanting damsels of Paradise, and -hither the faithful now resort to meditate on love. - - Illustration: MOUNT MORIAH, WITH A VIEW OF THE MOSQUE OF OMAR. - -But the great attraction within the Temple area is the “Mosque of -Omar”――the pride of the Mohammedan, the contempt of the Jew, and the -grief of the Christian. Though bearing the name of the celebrated -Khalif Omar, who captured Jerusalem in 636 A.D., yet some Arabian -writers suggest the name of Khalif Abd-el-Melek Ibn Marwan as the -more probable founder of the present mosque. But so confused are -the accounts of historians, and so contradictory are the prevailing -traditions touching its origin, that it is difficult to reach a -correct conclusion on the subject. It is stated, however, by the best -authorities, that when Jerusalem capitulated to the arms of Omar, the -khalif, on entering the city, refused to pray in the Church of the -Holy Sepulchre, but inquired for the site of Solomon’s Temple. Led by -the venerable patriarch Sophronius to the sacred rock which forms the -summit ridge of Moriah, Omar, with his own hands, removed the filth -which Moslem contempt for the Jew had heaped upon it, and over it he -ordered the erection of a mosque at once worthy the wisdom of Solomon -and the conquests of Mohammed. - -In the estimation of devout Moslems, this mosque is next in sacredness -to the mosques of Mecca and Medina, and, with the exception of a brief -interval, it has remained in their possession since its construction. -In 1099 A.D. the Holy City yielded to the triumphant arms of the -Crusaders, whose heroic faith was only excelled by their unwavering -courage. Overpowered by their Christian conquerors, the followers of -the Prophet retreated within their sacred edifice, from which they were -at length driven with terrible slaughter. Some, creeping to the summit -of the dome, and clinging to its gilded spire, were pierced with arrows; -others, leaping into the deep cisterns beneath the mosque, were drowned -or sabred in their attempt to escape; while so great was the number -slain, that the whole area flowed with blood ankle deep.[122] Having -removed the dead, and cleansed the mosque from the stench and stains -of the slaughtered, the Crusaders consecrated it to Christ. Within they -erected a choir and an altar, and on the spire which surmounts the dome -they substituted the Cross for the Crescent. Receiving authority from -the sovereign pontiff, they established a regular chapter of canons, -endowed with all the immunities belonging to the Catholics of the West, -and calling the holy house, by way of excellence, _Templum Domini_, -they organized a special guard for its protection, to whom they gave -the name of Knights Templars. - -But in less than a century thereafter the Mosque of Omar reverted to -its former masters, and, true to his religious faith, the proud Saladin, -having driven the Crusaders from the city, transferred the mosque from -Christ to Mohammed. The golden cross gave place to the gilded crescent; -the altar and choir were removed; the edifice was cleansed with -rose-water brought for the purpose from Damascus; and from its lofty -dome the muezzin announced the hour for prayer, while on his royal mat, -spread beneath that dome, Saladin performed his devotions.[123] As the -Egyptian conqueror left it we now behold it. - -Consisting of three sections――the walls, the drum, and the dome――the -lower story is a true octagon, forty-six feet high and 170 in diameter. -Penetrated by fifty-six pointed windows of the Tudor style, the light -passes through stained glass, rivaling in the beauty and brilliancy of -its colors that of the famous cathedral windows of Central Italy. From -this section rises the drum, thirty-four feet high, pierced by sixteen -windows, and on which rests the dome, rising seventy feet higher, and -having a diameter of sixty feet. A graceful spire surmounts the dome, -supporting a gilded crescent. The exterior of the first and second -sections is incased with marbles of different hues and with porcelain -tiles of intricate patterns, while that of the dome is covered with -lead. - -Corresponding in position to the four cardinal points are as many -doorways, three of which have inclosed marble porches, and the fourth -has a portico formed of slender columns, with a roof of the same -material. Two corridors encircle the interior of this noble edifice. -One, thirteen feet wide, is formed of eight massive piers and sixteen -Corinthian columns, connected at the top by a horizontal architrave; -the other, thirty feet wide, is formed of twelve columns and four -inner piers, from which spring the arches that support the dome. These -columns are polished porphyry of a purple hue, and are crowned with -richly gilded capitals. The walls and ceiling are covered with gilt -stucco, on which are traced, in the graceful curves and lines of the -Arabic characters, quotations from the Koran. Rising 150 feet from the -marble pavement, the interior of the dome is no less impressive than -the exterior is imposing; and though less in altitude than St. Peter’s -at Rome, it is more symmetrical, and from the dimness of the light the -eye wearies in searching for its loftier portions. - -But the great attraction within the mosque is the celebrated rock -called by the Arabs es-Sukhrah. Situated directly beneath the dome, it -is unquestionably the summit ridge of Mount Moriah, and consists of a -naked limestone rock of a grayish color, sixty feet long, fifty-five -wide, and rises five feet above the surrounding floor. Over it, -suspended from the piers, is the war-banner of Omar, made of the -richest crimson silk; around it is an iron railing, with arrow-headed -points tipped with gilt, and on it stand metallic candlesticks -resembling Syrian lilies. - -The fertile imagination of the Asiatic has invested this rock with -peculiar sanctity. According to a Mohammedan legend, it descended -from heaven when the spirit of prophecy was withdrawn from earth, and -attempted to return to its native quarry when the Prophet ascended to -glory, but was only restrained by the powerful arm of Gabriel. Refusing -to touch the earth again, _it remains suspended in the air seven feet -above the top of Mount Moriah!_ Arrogant in their spirit as they are -legendary in their taste, the Moslems believe that all the water on the -earth flows from beneath this rock; and that in one of its unvisited -caves are still preserved the armor of Mohammed, the saddle of his -favorite beast, the scales for weighing the souls of men at the last -judgment, the birds of Solomon, the pomegranates of David, and a -silver urn which was thrown from its pedestal by Gabriel’s wing on the -ever-memorable night of the Prophet’s ascension. - -Reached by a flight of stone steps is the “Noble Cave,” excavated in -the heart of the rock, which is of irregular shape, eight feet high -and sixty in circumference. To deceive the unwary, and sustain the -story that the rock is suspended in the air, a plastered wall incloses -the sides of the vault, which, on being struck, emits a hollow sound, -indicating a vacant space beyond. In the centre of the floor is a -marble star, said to cover the mouth of _Hades_. It is more probably -the entrance to that great cavern beneath the city, which, according -to tradition, extends to this point. - -Rejecting the idle tales of a false faith, the es-Sukhrah has a -history replete with interest to every Christian. Forming the ridge -of Mount Moriah, here Abraham offered his son;[124] here stood the -destroying angel when about to smite Jerusalem for the offense of an -ambitious king;[125] here was the threshing-floor of Ornan, which David -purchased to offer thereon a sacrifice to stay the hand of the avenging -messenger;[126] and on it rested the altar of burnt-offerings in the -first and second temples.[127] Viewed in this light, the “Noble Cave” -was no doubt the cess-pool of the altar of burnt-offerings, into which -the immense quantity of sacrificial blood was conveyed by the drain -that encompassed the altar. - -From the southern portal of the Mosque of Omar a paved pathway leads -to the Mosque of El-Aksa, lined on either side with olives, palms, and -acacias. Near this avenue is the elegant Pulpit of David, from which -prayers are offered for the health of the Sultan and the triumph of -his arms. Extending a distance of 350 feet, the path terminates at -the porch of El-Aksa. Standing near the southwest corner of the Temple -area, and close to the southern wall, this mosque covers an area of -50,000 square feet. Measuring 280 feet long and 180 wide, its aisles -and nave are forty-eight feet high, and its dome 130. Though in its -general appearance the architecture is a compound of the Gothic and -the Saracenic, yet, owing to the frequent alterations and numerous -additions of the mosque, it is difficult to assign it a classification. -Facing the north, the imposing porch extends the entire breadth of the -building, and is divided into seven sections by arches supported by -slender columns. It is paved with marble, and is reached by eight steps -worn smooth by the feet of twelve centuries. The façade is penetrated -by seven portals opening into the interior, which consists of a grand -nave, three aisles on either side, and a transept surmounted with a -noble dome. The aisles and nave are formed by forty-five marble columns, -resembling the imposing colonnades in the magnificent basilicas of -Santa Maria Maggiore and San Paolo fuori le Mura in Rome. Springing -from these columns are arches connecting aisle with aisle, and -supporting the roof and dome. The pavement, now of stone, was once -adorned with beautiful mosaics, the remaining fragments attesting the -pristine grandeur of this ancient temple of Christian worship. Beneath -the dome is the elaborately-carved Pulpit of Saladin, and near it is -the gallery for the singers. Deriving their name from the daughter of -the Prophet, the Fatimites ordered a large section of the mosque to -be partitioned off and appropriated for the devotions of women. In the -western end of the transept are two polished marble columns standing -ten inches apart, and designedly arranged to discover the faith of -him who essayed to pass between them; no one, according to the legend, -but a true believer in the Koran could hope for success. Once regarded -as an infallible test, the charm, however, is now broken, as many -a Christian has succeeded in the attempt. Within this mosque is a -fountain called the “Well of the Leaf,” receiving its name from the -circumstance that centuries ago, one of the faithful, having descended -to the bottom to recover a lost bucket, unexpectedly found a door -opening into the delightful gardens of Paradise, into which he walked, -and, plucking a leaf from one of its fair trees, returned, bearing with -him the celestial memento, which proved its heavenly origin and nature -by retaining its freshness. - -With the ever-changing fortunes of the Holy City, the Mosque of El-Aksa -has passed from master to master. Originally a Christian basilica, -built by order of the Emperor Justinian in the sixth century, and by -him dedicated to “My Lady,” the Virgin Mary, a hundred years thereafter -it was converted into a temple of Moslem worship. Four and a half -centuries later, Tancred and his brave knights drove out the Arabians, -and reconsecrated the Church of Justinian to the Blessed Virgin. In -1119 A.D. Baldwin II. gave it to his followers, whom he was pleased to -call “the poor fellow-soldiers of Jesus Christ,” and for whose -accommodation he erected on its eastern side a dormitory, refectory, -and infirmary. A gift so humble was the beginning of the wealth, power, -and glory of the Knights Templars, whose mystic kingdom afterward -extended to the farthest limits of Christendom, and who received the -benedictions of pontiffs, the homage of kings, and the donations of the -pious. Beneath the green sod in front of the venerable basilica were -interred, in the year of our Lord 1170, the four knights who, at the -instigation of Henry II., assassinated Thomas à Becket in the ancient -cathedral of Canterbury. Remaining in the possession of the Crusaders -for eighty-eight years, in 1187 A.D. Saladin marched against Jerusalem, -captured the city, put the Templars to the sword, and reopened the -portals of the mosque to the children of the Prophet.[128] - -Whatever pleasure is experienced in recalling the ever-shifting -fortunes of Moslem and Christian, and in reciting the legends of the -one and the traditions of the other, the traveler turns away from -scenes and memories so romantic to explore with deeper interest the -works of Solomon. - -Thirty feet to the east from the Mosque of El-Aksa is the entrance to -a subterranean passage-way. A flight of stone steps leads down to a -broad and well-made avenue 259 feet long, forty-two wide, thirty high, -and having a gentle descent of 200 feet. Extending through the centre -are two rows of monolithic columns, connected by arches supporting the -ceiling, which is composed of flattened domes. These domes are formed -of large blocks of limestone, and each one has a circular keystone -six feet in diameter――a style of architecture nowhere else to be found, -except in some of the ancient tombs beyond the city, indicating a -contemporaneous age. Guided by the light of our wax tapers, we advanced -a distance of 259 feet to a flight of nine steps leading down into an -entrance-hall fifty feet long and forty-two wide. In the very centre -stands a massive column twenty-one feet high and six in diameter, -consisting of a single block of limestone, including a foliated capital, -on which is carved a palm-branch. From this central pier, and from -pilasters on the sides of the hall, spring arches on which rests a -vaulted ceiling of extraordinary workmanship. And corresponding, both -in its size and grandeur, is the original gateway in the south wall -of the city, the exterior of which is seen in part where the city wall -joins that of the Haram. Having a breadth of forty-two feet, it is -divided in the centre by a rectangular pier eight feet broad, and, -extending inward twelve feet, has a pillar-shaped termination. Both the -pier and jambs of the gateway are constructed of bevel stones of great -size and well finished. This is evidently one of the approaches to the -ancient city, and no doubt up through this colonnaded avenue Christ and -his disciples often passed to the House of the Lord. In some lateral -vault leading from this covered way, the Jews believe the treasures and -furniture of their Temple are now concealed; and so prevalent is this -opinion, that a breach has already been made in the wall to discover -the place of concealment. - - Illustration: SOLOMON’S SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGE-WAY. - -Standing in the southeast corner of the Temple area is the Mosque of -Issa (Jesus). It is a small, dome-like building, containing a large -marble basin, not unlike in form a sarcophagus, called by some the -“Cradle of Jesus,” by others the font in which the infant Savior was -washed previous to his presentation in the Temple. Through this chamber -is the true and easy entrance to the great substructions of Solomon’s -day; but, hoping to deter us from exploring them, the guide led us to -an opening in the area, down which we were compelled to leap more than -ten feet. Nothing daunted, each in turn made the leap, and turning to -the right, we stood beneath those grand vaults, unequaled in strength -and grandeur by any thing of the kind either in Greece or Rome. - -Originally the summit of Mount Moriah naturally and rapidly declined -from the great rock which forms the ridge toward the southeast, leaving -a narrow and uneven surface. To elevate the surface of the hill to a -common level, Solomon constructed vaults supported by piers.[129] -Standing ten feet apart, and extending east and west 319 feet, and -north and south 250 feet, are fifteen rows of massive columns, composed -of beveled stones five feet square, and connected by semicircular -arches, on which rest the vaulted ceiling, five feet thick, supporting -the pavement above. These piers are from ten to thirty feet high, -according to the elevation and depression of the ground, and on some -of them has been chiseled a mason’s compasses, opened at an angle -of forty-five degrees, but whether ancient or modern the silent sign -of the honorable craft gives no response. The eastern wall of these -substructions is the eastern wall of the Haram inclosure, the blocks -of which are of the same material and of similar finish with those -seen from without. Through openings in an arched gateway, now closed, -the Valley of Jehoshaphat is distinctly seen. Through the thick vaults -above some olive-trees have forced their powerful roots, which have -taken hold on the soil below, uniting, by ligaments of life, the upper -and lower surfaces, while the more slender roots hang like graceful -pendents from the ceiling. Running along the wall in the western aisle -is a large pipe, of similar material to Solomon’s aqueduct, which -no doubt formerly served as a waste-pipe to carry off the refuse -water from the Temple; and near it is an oval well, twenty feet in -diameter. In the south corner of this aisle is a triple gate of curious -workmanship, consisting of an arched central doorway and two lateral -ones, so arranged as to form an obtuse angle. In the centre is an -octagonal column two and a half feet in diameter, from which spring -the arches of the side gateways. Though well preserved, this beautiful -gate is now walled up. In the palmy days of Jerusalem it opened to the -villages on the south of the city, and there is still a gradual ascent -to the open area above, up which the victims were driven to the Temple -for sacrifice. - -Whether we consider the grandeur of these works or the wealth expended -in their construction, they reflect alike the wisdom and glory of -Solomon. The original declination of the hill――the measurements of the -Temple area as given by Josephus――the size of the stones of which they -are constructed, and the manner in which they are dressed, together -with the absence of any information that either Herod or any of his -successors ever touched the foundations of the sacred inclosure, -suggest that these substructions are coeval with the Holy House. - -Returning to the surface of the area, we turned to the northwest -to explore the great lake beneath the Mosque of Omar. Any one who -for a moment has reflected upon the quantity of water requisite for -the frequent ablutions of the priests, and for the other demands of -the Temple service, must have concluded that artificial means were -employed to meet the demand. Ever fruitful in inventions, the genius of -Solomon was equal to the emergency, and to the aid of nature he brought -the mechanical art of his day. Near the mosque there is an aperture -resembling the mouth of a well, down which an inclined plane leads to -a flight of forty-four stone steps cut in the living rock. Descending, -we found an excavation in the solid limestone rock forty-two feet -deep, 736 in circumference, and capable of holding 2,000,000 gallons. -The form of the cavern is irregular, and the rudely-arched roof is -supported by large piers, which were designedly left at the time of the -excavation. These columns are arranged to afford the greatest support, -without regard to regularity or beauty, and an attempt had been made -to arch the intervening rock, but the work is so crudely done as to -give it a craggy appearance. Both the arches and upper portions of the -pillars were formerly incased with brass, but the metallic covering -has been removed by the Vandal captors of the city. Formerly there were -eight apertures in the pavement above through which the water was drawn -up; but only one remains open, admitting the light to the shades below. -More than three feet of water now covers the entire bottom, which is -perfectly clear and of a sweetish taste. Though at present the lake is -partially supplied with rain-water, which flows through a small tank, -from the Mosque of El-Aksa, yet originally the water was brought from -Solomon’s Pools at Etham, seven miles to the south of Jerusalem, and -the ancient aqueduct through which it flowed can now be traced to the -western side of the reservoir. - -Standing in such a cavern, where the light and darkness alternately -chase each other, where no sound is heard save the measured tramp of -pilgrim feet on the marble floor above, and where History silently but -triumphantly points to her works in confirmation of her story, the mind -is filled with admiration for the past. Of all the works of Solomon, -there is nothing remaining which so impressively reflects his wonderful -intellect, and so truly conveys to the mind an idea of his unbounded -resources as this lake. Of its antiquity there can be no doubt; as to -its design there can be no dispute; and of the glory it reflects upon -the memory of its founder there can be no diversity of opinion. It was -seen and described by Aristeas in the century preceding Christ, and it -is subsequently mentioned by the Mishna, by Tacitus, and the Jerusalem -Itinerary, and it now invites the modern traveler to its cavernous -depths to drink of its crystal water, and thereby confirm those -traditions which the lapse of time had transformed into fables.[130] - -Though permitted to explore the Temple area the second time, yet I -reluctantly left a spot where of old God had appeared to his people, -and where the Redeemer often taught as one having authority. And where, -on earth, have occurred events of greater grandeur and of more powerful -influence? Within an area of less than forty acres the history of our -religion may be said to have occurred, and there all that is now real -in our faith was once foreshadowed by the most costly and imposing -symbols; and to-day Moriah bears testimony no less to the fulfillment -of the prophetic judgments demanded against her than to the veracity of -her historians. In less than forty years after the Savior’s prediction -of the destruction of the Temple, his words were fulfilled by Titus, -who left the holy fane a mass of scorched and smoking ruins; and now -spanning the Appian Way in ancient Rome, the Arch of Titus remains the -monument of his terrible work. After a period of desolation lasting -seventy years, the Emperor Adrian rebuilt Jerusalem, calling it _Ælia -Capitolina_――the former after the family name of the emperor, and the -latter in honor of Jupiter Capitolinus. Plowing up the surface of the -area, he erected on the site of the Jewish Temple one to Jupiter, which -he adorned with the colossal statue of himself, placing the equestrian -one on the very site of the “Holy of Holies.” Nearly two and a half -centuries later the Jews were permitted, by Julian the Apostate, to -rebuild their Holy House, but they were deterred in the attempt by -flames of fire bursting suddenly out from the earth upon them, and -by other manifestations of the divine displeasure. For more than -150 years subsequently nothing is recorded of the Temple area till the -middle of the sixth century, when the Emperor Justinian ordered the -erection thereon of his magnificent church to the Virgin Mary, which, -in 636 A.D., Omar converted into the Mosque of El-Aksa, and upon -the site of Solomon’s Temple and of the Fane of Jupiter he reared -the famous mosque which now bears his name. Subject to the sway of -the False Prophet for 463 years, it was rescued from the grasp of -the Moslems by the brave Crusaders, who converted the mosques into -Christian churches, and who for eighty years worshiped Christ where -Jupiter and Mohammed had been adored. Yielding to the victorious arms -of its earlier captors, Saladin retook Jerusalem in 1189 A.D., and the -Crescent was again in the ascendant on Mount Moriah, where it remains -the symbol of Mohammedan power and glory, to give place at no distant -day to the Cross of a world’s Redeemer.[131] - - - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Valley of the Dead. ―― Tombs of the Judges. ―― Of El-Messahney. - ―― Of the Kings. ―― Valley of the Kidron. ―― Pillar of Absalom. - ―― Traditional Tombs. ―― Jews’ Cemetery. ―― Funeral Procession. - ―― Mount of Offense. ―― Virgin’s Fountain. ―― Gardens of - Siloam. ―― Bridal Party. ―― Pool of Siloam. ―― Of En-Rogel. ―― - Vale of Hinnom. ―― Burning of Children. ―― Valley of Slaughter. - ―― Potters’ Field. ―― Solomon’s Coronation. ―― Pools of Gihon. - ―― Pool of Hezekiah. ―― Supply of Water. - - -FROM time immemorial, nations have interred their dead with -extraordinary care. Along the dividing line separating the Libyan -Desert from the fertile plains of the Nile, the Egyptians constructed -tombs of marble and porphyry, and reared the stupendous pyramids -of Ghizeh, Abooseer, and Sakkara, for mausoleums for their renowned -kings. Beside their noblest highways the Greeks and Romans placed -the sepulchres and funeral pillars of their distinguished citizens. -And the Christian cemeteries of our own day are as remarkable for the -grandeur of their cenotaphs as for the beauty of their situation. Not -less sensibly affected by a passion so tender, the Jews prepared the -final resting-place of their beloved dead with sincere affection. With -them it became a religious pride to beautify the sepulchres of their -ancestors, and carefully preserve them from age to age. Though like -other nations in these particulars, it is a fact no less singular than -true that not a line has ever been found on or in any of the ancient -tombs in Palestine;[132] hence their identification is now, as it ever -has been, by tradition rather than by inscription and epitaph. It is -not therefore strange that, with few exceptions, the sepulchres of -kings and prophets are either entirely unknown, or are identified by -mere conjecture. Like other works of art, Jewish tombs advanced from a -crude beginning to a state of artistic elegance. Originally they were -natural excavations in the rocks, as is the Cave of Machpelah;[133] but -in the advancement of national refinement they were adorned with all -that art could invent and wealth procure,[134] as are the Sepulchres of -the Kings. With slight variation in the details, there is a similarity -of construction in those of the latter class. - -Usually a chamber was excavated in the living rock below the surface, -in the sides of which receptacles were prepared large enough to receive -a human form, and arranged in tiers with much regularity; when these -were occupied, a door was cut in the perpendicular rock, and other -chambers were adjoined either on the sides, in the rear, or below. - -Selected alike for its seclusion and its rocky sides, the Valley of -Jehoshaphat is a vast cemetery. At its head are located the “Tombs -of the Judges.” Though their origin is involved in mystery, they are -generally supposed to have contained the remains of the members of -the Jewish Sanhedrim, and the supposition is confirmed by the seventy -niches within them, coinciding with the number of members composing -that venerable tribunal. - -Excavated in the side of a low rock, the entrance is reached by a -descending path. The exterior is tastefully ornamented with a pediment -resting on plain but handsome mouldings, adorned with tracery of leaves -and flowers, and with a blazing torch in the centre and one at either -end. Over the façade a few olives bend down their branches droopingly, -and before it are the accumulated mounds of many centuries. Descending -into the vestibule, which is thirteen feet long and nine wide, we -passed through a richly moulded doorway into an ante-chamber eight feet -high, twenty long, and nineteen wide. On the sides of the vault are -thirteen loculi, or receptacles for the dead. In the southern wall a -door opens to another chamber eight feet square, having in its sides -nine arched recesses. In the east wall a second door leads to a similar -vault, from which a flight of steps descends to chambers below. Silence -and darkness now reign supreme in these mansions of the dead, and of -all that was once human not a bone remains. - - Illustration: TOMBS OF THE JUDGES. - -Less than two miles to the northeast are the “Tombs of el-Messahney,” -discovered by our distinguished countryman of Joppa.[135] Around them -are the remains of what was once a large town, such as hewn stones -and broken columns. The rock in front of the tomb has been beveled -in imitation of Jewish masonry. Formerly an imposing entablature -surmounted an open porch, but only a portion of it remains. The -entrance is through a large doorway spanned by a round arch, and the -spacious chamber within differs from all others in Palestine by having -a window. Of the seventeen recesses which enter the wall endwise, there -is one nobler than the rest and twice as large. Here, no doubt, the -lifeless form of some distinguished person lay in state, under the -light of the window, till his successor in office became his successor -to the tomb. - -Half a mile to the north from the Damascus Gate, and sixty yards to -the right of the Nablous road, are the “Tombs of the Kings.” In the -western side of a sunken court hewn in the rock, twenty feet deep and -ninety square, is a grand portico fifteen feet high, thirty-nine wide, -and seventeen deep. Formerly this portal was decorated with two columns -and as many pilasters, which, however, are now gone, except a fragment -of one of the capitals depending from the architrave. Over the entrance -was a heavy cornice and frieze, adorned with clusters of grapes and -wreaths of flowers, alternating over a continuous garland of fruit -and foliage, extending down the sides to the ground. But time and -plunderers have defaced this elegant façade, leaving it a wreck of -former grandeur. A solitary palm now rears its graceful form near the -spot, and ferns grow out of the cracked face and sides of the portal, -covering the broken entablature. - - Illustration: TOMBS OF THE KINGS. - -Entering the portico and turning to the right, we found the entrance to -the sepulchre to be at once peculiar and complicated. Judging from what -remains, the doorway was excavated below the floor of the vestibule, -and was approached by a covered passage-way tunneled through the -solid rock. At the commencement of this subterranean way there was a -trap-door which was secretly covered with a slab. To secure greater -safety against those who would sacrilegiously disturb the repose of the -dead, there was beneath this trap-door a deep pit so located that none -save the initiated, and they only with the greatest caution, could land -upon its brink as they stepped upon it. The door of the tomb in turn -was guarded with the utmost secrecy. It consisted of a heavy circular -slab which was made to run in a groove. The groove inclined upward, -and the slab could only be turned by means of a lever. To add to the -difficulty of turning the door, both the groove and the slab were -nearly concealed by the side of the passage-way, and to the left of -the end of the passage-way there was a smaller slab sliding in another -groove, which, running at right angles with the former, served as a -bolt, and, when pushed in, was received into an aperture cut in the -stone door, not only rendering the door immovable, but defying all -effort to open it except by the initiated. Though to all appearance -these precautions were sufficient to protect this mansion of the -dead from the hand of the despoiler, yet, to render the repose of -the departed doubly sure, there was an inner door of great weight, -so arranged as to fit exactly in the deeply-recessed doorway, and so -hung on pivots that it yielded to the slightest pressure from without, -while it immediately fell back to its place as soon as the pressure -was withdrawn, sealing the doom of the unfortunate one who had entered, -as it fitted so exactly in its place that it was impossible to open it -again from the inside. The peculiar construction of the door and its -rolling in a groove explains the anxious inquiry of the Marys, “Who -shall roll us away the stone from the door of the sepulchre?” - -Creeping through the low entrance, we lit our candles, and found -the interior to consist of five chambers, connected by narrow aisles, -and in the sides of the chambers are arched recesses for the dead. -The largest of these chambers is nineteen feet square. Its walls are -of solid rock, hewn smooth. On its south side are two low doorways -which lead to as many chambers, and on the north side a third doorway -opens to another vault, which is strewn with fragments of elegantly -sculptured marble. Here was found that magnificent lid of a sarcophagus -which is at present in the Louvre in Paris, where it bears the name -of “David’s Tomb.” Beneath these vaults are two others, reached by -an inclined plane and a flight of stone steps. Being more concealed -than the rest, and containing the most elegant sarcophagi, they were -designed, no doubt, for the final repose of the most distinguished -persons. But, despite such extraordinary precautions, these tombs have -been plundered, the dust of the dead scattered, the sarcophagi broken, -and the treasures they contained extracted. - -Though by common consent they are called the “Tombs of the Kings,” yet -there are no sepulchres beyond the walls of Jerusalem as to the origin -and founder of which there is such a variety of opinions. On these -points the tombs themselves are dumb, as they contain neither device -nor inscription; and, with one or two ambiguous exceptions, history -is likewise silent. M. de Sauley declares them to be the “Tombs of -the Kings of Judah;” Mr. Ferguson pronounces their “architecture to be -later than the reign of Constantine;” Mr. Williams asserts them to be -the “sepulchral monument of Herod the Great;” Dr. Schultz identifies -them as the “Royal Caverns,” mentioned by Josephus as being on a -line with the Agrippian Wall; Dr. Robinson ascribes them to Helena, -the widow of King Monobazus, of Adiabene, who, with her son Izates, -having espoused the Jewish faith, settled in Jerusalem in the reign -of Claudius Cæsar, and her son, dying in the Holy City, was here -interred;[136] while Dr. Thompson and Dr. Barclay regard them as having -been constructed by the Asmonean kings. The latter conclusion is most -in harmony with the facts of sacred and profane history. The kings -of Judah were interred on Mount Zion; Herod the Great was entombed -at Herodium, where there are other vaults for his descendants; other -caverns along the Agrippian Wall correspond in location with the -words of Josephus better than these; and the thirty loculi within this -mausoleum are twenty-eight too many for Helena and her son Izates. - -Passing down the Valley of Jehoshaphat to the northeast corner of the -city wall, we entered the large olive-groves which cover the bed of the -valley and the sides of the adjacent hills. Attended by their Nubian -slaves, the women and children of Jerusalem spent the hours of the day -here, reclining beneath these trees. Opposite St. Stephen’s Gate is the -traditional rock where Stephen was stoned to death. Above it, to the -north, is the supposed site of Calvary. Below it, to the east, is the -stone bridge which spans the Kidron. It is 140 feet long, and seventeen -high from the bottom of the vale to the top of the arch. It is firmly -built, and as it has stood for thousands of years, it will endure -for ages to come, if not destroyed by violence. The Brook Kidron is a -winter torrent, or the accumulation of streamlets from the hill-sides, -formed by the rains of winter. Though not seen in the dry season, the -stream continues to flow several feet below the surface of small loose -stones, sending up distinctly a low murmuring sound. - -A thousand feet below the bridge is “Absalom’s Pillar.” It is of -limestone, cut out of the rock, and detached from the base of Olivet -by a path excavated in three of its sides. It consists of a square -platform, reached by a flight of steps; a basement of solid rock -twenty-four feet square, a square attic seven feet high, and a circular -attic, surmounted with an inverted funnel-shaped dome, the point -spreading out like an opening flower. Though its apparent altitude is -less than fifty feet, yet, owing to the accumulation of stones around -its base, its actual height is not ascertainable. The exterior of -the basement is ornamented with columns and pilasters, on the Ionic -capitals of which rests a Doric architrave. Above the first entablature -are two courses of large, well-dressed stones, on which is traced a -small cornice, and on the dome above is a cornice resembling rope-work. -Within are two chambers, reached by the original doorway on the east, -and by a breach on the west, which has been made by the inhabitants of -the city, who hold the memory of Absalom in profound contempt. Within -and around it are heaps of stones, thrown there by Christian, Jew, and -Moslem, in condemnation of a son’s rebellion against his father, and, -as a more expressive mark of their disapprobation, they spit upon it -as they pass. This is probably the pillar which Absalom in his lifetime -reared up for himself in the “King’s Dale.”[137] Being a mixture of -Grecian, Roman, and Egyptian architecture, the style is against the -supposition; but as it was customary in the days of Herod to “garnish -the sepulchres of the righteous,” so the admirers of the rebel may have -reconstructed his “Pillar” conformably with the architectural taste of -the Herodian age. - - Illustration: ABSALOM’S PILLAR (RESTORED). - -A little to the north is the reputed tomb of King Jehoshaphat, -from whom the valley takes its name. It is a subterranean sepulchre, -extending several feet into the mountain. The entrance is through an -ornamental portal, consisting of four columns and a pediment, adorned -with foliage, cut in the face of the perpendicular rock. Believing it -contains a copy of their Law, and other valuable manuscripts, the Jews -guard this mansion of the dead with ceaseless vigils. But this can -not be the tomb of the king whose memory it bears, as it is distinctly -recorded that Jehoshaphat was buried with his fathers in the city -of David.[138] The false location of his tomb has given a false name -to the valley itself. Both Josephus and the sacred writers call it -the “Valley of the Kidron,” which signifies “Vale of Filth,” from -the refuse matter that flowed into it from the cess-pool in the rock -beneath the Temple. Nor can this be the place to which the prophet -alludes when he declares that God will gather all nations into the -Valley of Jehoshaphat for judgment.[139] Its limits are not equal to -such an assemblage. The name Jehoshaphat meaning “Jehovah judgeth,” the -allusion is metaphorical, the royal name being applied to some unknown -valley――the rendezvous of the arraigned nations. - -A few paces to the south of “Absalom’s Pillar” is the traditional -tomb of James the Just, where he concealed himself during the interval -between the crucifixion and resurrection of our Lord, and where he was -finally interred after his martyrdom. It is a cavern fifty feet long, -fifteen deep, and ten broad, with an entrance high up in the face of -the rock consisting of four Doric columns. - -Just south of this apostolic tomb is the monument of Zachariah, who -was stoned to death in the reign of Joash,[140] and who is alluded to -by the Savior as having perished between the Temple and the altar.[141] -Unlike the others, it is solid, designed merely as a sepulchral -monument to the memory of the martyr. It is a monolithic, four-sided -pyramid, whose height is equal to its base, each side measuring twenty -feet. Separated from the parent rock by passage-ways on three sides, -it is ornamented with columns and pilasters, each crowned with a plain -Ionic capital, and above which is an entablature of acanthus leaves. - -From the bed of the Kidron Valley to the Bethany Road on the crest of -the hill, and from the “Pillar of Absalom” to the village of Siloam, -is the cemetery of the Jews. Each grave is marked with a plain slab -imbedded in the earth, and bears a Hebrew inscription. National love -and religious superstition induce the descendants of Abraham to seek a -place of sepulture within this vale. Expecting the restoration of their -kingdom, they desire to sleep in death beneath the sceptre of their -posterity. Believing that the final judgment will take place here, and -that to have a part in the resurrection of the just they must here be -interred, in their old age many come from distant lands to be entombed -beside their countrymen. If so unfortunate as to expire in a strange -land, they die in the faith that their bodies will burrow their way -through the earth to this consecrated spot. Here, morning and evening, -venerable men prostrate themselves upon the ground in anticipation of -death, and hither Jewish women come to weep over buried affection. - - Illustration: TOMBS IN THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. - -On the opposite side of the valley, covering all that portion of Mount -Moriah not included within the Haram wall, is a Moslem cemetery of -great age. The graves are covered with two layers of hewn stone, with -an open space between them in the centre, and ornamented with two -upright shafts, one at either end. The material is limestone, and, -according to a custom prevalent in Eastern countries, the tombs -are whitewashed, illustrating the appropriateness of the Savior’s -comparison when he likened the Scribes and Pharisees unto “whited -sepulchres.”[142] - -While standing here a funeral procession came out of St. Stephen’s -Gate. The bier was borne upon the shoulders of men, and, in marching -to the grave, the procession rushed on tumultuously, chanting, in a low -monotone, “God is God, and Mohammed is his prophet.” Believing there -is virtue in bearing the dead to the tomb, each man in rapid succession -became a pall-bearer. Being persons of different height, the corpse -rose and fell according to the altitude of the bearer. On reaching the -grave a confused circle was formed, a funeral hymn was chanted, and, -after the interment of the dead, an almoner, who had been appointed -by the deceased, distributed paras to the throng of beggars who always -attend funerals. - -Near the grave stood a group of women, swinging their arms, striking -their breasts, and howling in the most frantic manner. They were the -hired mourners so frequently alluded to in the Bible. When a Moslem -dies these mourning women are sent for, who recount, in an extempore -chant, the virtues of the dead. They are persons past the pride and -beauty of womanhood, and are held in high esteem by the community. -Weeping being their profession, tears are at their command at the -shortest notice. Their wail is the harshest sound that ever fell on -mortal ear, and the habitual contortions of the face render them the -impersonation of ugliness. As in all other vocations, the woman who -weeps the freest, howls the loudest, and contorts the ugliest, is the -chief mourner, and has the most extensive and lucrative practice. To -these persons Solomon alludes in his description of death――“and the -mourners go about the streets;”[143] and St. Matthew refers to them in -his account of our Lord’s visit to the ruler’s house, “Who, when he saw -the minstrels and the people making a noise, he said unto them, Give -place, for the maid is not dead, but sleepeth.”[144] - -This cemetery is a place of frequent resort, where, at all hours of -the day, groups of females may be seen lamenting some departed friend. -As of old, they carry a tear bottle, consisting of two small vials -incased in a cushion, and so adjusted that the necks of the vials touch -the eyes to catch the falling tear. Though as extensively used by the -Mohammedans as they were by the Greeks, yet they are not so graceful -as the tapering lachrymaries of the latter. The material is coarser, -and the manufacture cruder, indicating a lower civilization. To these -lachrymaries David alludes in those tender words of his, “Thou tellest -my wanderings; put thou my tears into thy bottle.”[145] - -Descending the dry and stony bed of the Kidron, the path soon -diverged, leading to the wretched town of Siloam, clinging to the rocky -sides of the Mount of Offense. In the hill are natural and artificial -caves, used in former times for sepulchres, but now inhabited by 200 -Troglodytes, who dwell in poverty, filth, and crime. As a befitting -background to such homes of woe, the Hill of Scandal rises up behind -them. It is long and high, rocky and barren. On its summit Solomon -reared altars to Chemosh and Moloch, and burnt incense and offered -sacrifices to strange gods.[146] From an offense so abominable the hill -takes its name. Unable to express their detestation for the idolatrous -acts here performed, topographers call it “Mount of Corruption,” “Mount -of Offense,” and “Hill of Scandal;” and, as if to typify the moral -desolation of that great man’s heart, Nature has planted neither shrub, -nor flower, nor grass thereon, but on all its sides, and over all its -summit, her sterile hand has scattered fragments of flint. - -Directly opposite the village of Siloam is the famous Fountain of the -Virgin, situated at the base of Mount Ophel. It derives its name from -the monkish legend that here the mother of Jesus was accustomed to wash -her linen. The Turks, however, call it the “Fountain of the Dragon,” -from the superstition that, as it is a remitting fountain, a dragon -lives within it, who stops the water when awake, but when he sleeps the -water flows. The reservoir is a tunnel-like cavern, twenty-five feet -deep, excavated in the southern side of Ophel. Sixteen steps lead down -to a platform twelve feet wide, over which a chamber has been built of -old stones ten feet high and eighteen long. From this platform there is -a flight of fourteen steps, from beneath the lowest of which the water -issues, which, after rising to the height of three feet, flows over a -pebbled bed, and, passing through a channel, mingles with the waters of -Siloam. Penetrating the mountain, this winding channel is two feet wide, -from four to twenty high, and more than 1750 long. - - Illustration: FOUNTAIN OF THE VIRGIN. - -The source of this fountain is unknown. Though subterranean -water-courses, which penetrate Zion, Ophel, and Moriah, have been -explored, yet it has never been ascertained whether the water flows -from a fountain beneath the Temple area, or from some great central -reservoir in the heart of one of the hills, from which are supplied, by -lateral conduits, the numerous wells, cisterns, and fountains that here -abound. For ages it has been a remitting fountain, flowing at intervals -two or three times a day, and suggesting to the mind of some that this -is the Pool of Bethesda. Its location, however, is more in harmony -with Nehemiah’s description of the King’s Pool.[147] For centuries the -taste of the water varied at different seasons of the year, being at -intervals sweet, bitter, brackish, and tasteless, which arises from the -mineral and vegetable substances through which it flows, or from the -waters of the bath, coming down from above and mingling with that of -the fountain. - -Winding round the foot of Ophel, we entered the delightful gardens of -Siloam, called in Scripture the “King’s Dale.”[148] They extend from -Kefr Silwân to the Pool of En-Rogel, and cover an area a mile in length -and 150 yards in breadth. Unequaled in fertility, these gardens surpass -in beauty any other spot in the environs of Jerusalem. Irrigated by -rills from the neighboring fountains, they yield abundantly the most -delicious figs, almonds, and olives, together with many varieties of -Syrian vegetables. Rented by many tenants, the land is divided into -small plots; and when viewed from an adjacent hill-side, where is seen -to best advantage the deep green of the herbs, the maroon color of the -soil, and the bright hues of the flowers, it has the appearance of an -elegant carpet. - -As in happier days, so it is still the scene of festivity and delight. -Here children frolic in all the freedom of Arab life, and here the -veiled beauties of the city recline in sweet repose beneath the shade -of fruit-trees. On the green slopes of Ophel a group of Jewish maidens -were dancing to the sound of the timbrel and song. It was a bridal -party celebrating the nuptials of a happy couple on their ancient hills, -and in the golden light of their ancestral sun. The scene recalled the -triumphal song and dance of Miriam and her women on the shores of the -Red Sea.[149] One charming creature, more beauteous than the rest, -led the song and dance, while her fair and joyous maidens responded -in chorus with voice and instrument, and followed in the merry dance. -Unlike the veiled and seclusive Moslem women, these fair daughters of -Abraham were exceedingly affable, and with open, happy faces bade us -welcome to the festive scene. - -Less than 500 yards from the Fountain of the Virgin, the Tyropean -Valley descends, dividing Mount Zion from Mount Ophel, and intersecting -the Vale of the Kidron. Its mouth is fifty feet higher than the bed of -the latter, and is reached by verdant terraces. Two hundred and fifty -feet up the valley, and situated in a nook in the mountain, is the Pool -of Siloam. The water flows from Mary’s Fountain, through an irregular -and semicircular stone conduit, conducting it into a rectangular -reservoir fifty feet long, fifteen broad, and nineteen deep. The -pool is constructed of masonry, now green with the moss of ages. In -the southwest corner a flight of stone steps leads to the edge of the -water. Though the western side is much broken, yet time has dealt more -gently with the opposite portion, in which are six marble columns half -imbedded in the wall, apparently designed to support an arch or roof -over the fountain. In the centre of the pool is “a nameless column, -with a buried base.” In the northeast end a flight of steps leads down -to a vaulted chamber excavated in the rock, where the water is gathered, -flowing in from the Virgin’s Fountain. From this reservoir it flows -beneath the steps into the pool, where, having accumulated to the -depth of three feet, it falls through an aperture into a subterranean -aqueduct, conducting it to the gardens of Siloam below. - - Illustration: POOL OF SILOAM. - -With unusual accuracy the inspired writers refer to this celebrated -pool, leaving us without doubt as to its location and identity. By -a bold metonymy, Isaiah substitutes the “waters of Shiloah that go -softly” for Jehovah, and the waters of the Euphrates for Rezin and -Remaliah’s son, reminding the Jews, as they had rejected the former, -that those of the latter should overflow their land.[150] Referring -to repairs made by Shallun, the son of Col-hozeh, Nehemiah speaks -of the rebuilding of the “wall of the pool of Siloah by the king’s -gardens;”[151] and hither Jesus sent the blind man to “wash in the pool -of Siloam.”[152] - -Some suppose this to be the Bethesda of the New Testament, and there -are many circumstances favoring the supposition.[153] Owing to the -difficulty of the descent, the impotent man could have justly said, -“Sir, I have no man, when the water is troubled, to put me into the -pool.” It is certainly the fountain to which the Savior sent the blind -man, intimating thereby that here the infirm were gathered; and, in -view of its natural scenery, it is a beautiful place for an angel to -come. - -A few feet to the south are the remains of a larger reservoir, -separated from Siloam by an embankment, and bounded on the south by a -causeway extending across the mouth of the Tyropean Valley. It is now -dry, and used as a garden. On the causeway stands an aged mulberry-tree, -marking the traditional spot where Isaiah was sawn asunder by order of -King Manasseh. Its trunk is gnarled, bent, and hollow, and supported -by a circular wall of loose stones. As if tenacious to perpetuate -the memory of the greatest of prophets, new limbs have grown from -those which are nearly decayed. Here, on a mound of unhewn stones, -the villagers of Kefr Silwân hold their court, which in derision the -Franks call “Congress Hall.” The court was not in session when we were -there, but the judges, old, ragged, and filthy, were wrapped in their -coarse garments, sleeping beneath the prophetic tree. In plucking a -leaf from this ancient shade, I unfortunately stumbled over one of -them, extorting a most uncourtly grunt. Asking his pardon as my only -reparation, I hastily retreated, leaving him and his companions to -their slumbers. - -From this artificial mound the path winds round the base of Mount -Zion, and, after rapidly descending into the valley, terminates at the -Fountain of En-Rogel. This fountain is situated at the junction of the -Kidron Valley and the Vale of Hinnom, and is the oldest and largest one -in the environs of Jerusalem. Quadrilateral in form, and constructed -of large hewn stones, it is 125 feet deep, and is inclosed with a small -rude well-house, around which are several watering-troughs. Though the -usual depth of the water is fifty feet, yet in the rainy season the -fountain overflows. Its source is unknown. It is the favorite well with -the inhabitants of Jerusalem, and thousands of gallons of its sweet -waters are daily carried into the city in goatskins on the backs of -donkeys. - -By the Arabs it is called the “Well of Job;” by the Franks, the -“Well of Nehemiah;” but in Scripture it is known as the “Waters -of En-Rogel.”[154] Neither history nor tradition gives a reason -for calling it after the illustrious sufferer of Uz. Job may be -a corruption of Joab, the famous warrior, who, with others, here -conspired against the king, and the well may have been so named from -this circumstance. According to the apocryphal book of the Maccabees -it is called after Nehemiah, as here he found the holy fire, which -the priests had secreted prior to their captivity in Persia.[155] -In partitioning the land into tribal possessions, Joshua fixed the -boundary-line between Judah and Benjamin at this fountain, and called -it En-Rogel, or the “Fullers’ Well”――the place where fullers were -accustomed to tread their clothes.[156] - -During Absalom’s rebellion it was around this fountain that Jonathan -and Ahimaaz secreted themselves, waiting instruction from Hushai, -which was brought to them by a “wench;”[157] and years after, when the -venerable David was sinking into the grave, his ungrateful son Adonijah -conspired against the youthful Solomon, and was proclaimed king “by the -stone Zoheleth, which is by En-Rogel.”[158] - -At this well the Valley of the Kidron and the Vale of Hinnom form a -conjunction, after which the valley passes between the Hill of Evil -Council on the west and the Mount of Offense on the east, pursuing its -course through the wilderness of Judea to Mâr Sâba, where it takes the -name of Wady en-Nâr, and thence continues southeastward to the Dead Sea. -From En-Rogel the Valley of Hinnom runs due west for half a mile, when, -turning abruptly northward, it extends as far as the Yâffa Gate, from -which point it gently inclines westward to the Upper Pool of Gihon. - -The generic name of this deep winding gorge is “The Valley of the -Son of Hinnom,” so designated by Joshua as bounding Jerusalem on the -south.[159] Who Hinnom was, or why this valley bears his name, are -facts on which sacred and profane historians are silent. He is, however, -one of those men who have left to posterity a name without a biography. - -Historically this vale is divided into two sections. From En-Rogel -to the southwestern spur of Mount Zion it is known in Scripture as -Tophet――meaning “tabret-drum”――from the custom of beating drums to -drown the cries of those children which were here burnt in sacrifice to -Moloch. Here, in this deep retired glen, stood the brazen image of the -idol of Ammon, with the body of a man and the head of an ox. Within the -statue was a large furnace, into which, at the appointed time, and amid -the wild shouts of the multitude and the beating of drums, the tender -victims were thrown. First placed on the burning arms and legs of the -idol, they were then caused to fall into the devouring fires within. -Significantly does the name of this monster imply “Horrid King,” as -here, at his shrine, were practiced the most revolting rites ever -witnessed under the sun. It is to such scenes Jeremiah refers in his -denunciation of the children of Judah: “They have built the high places -of Tophet, which are in the Valley of the Son of Hinnom, to burn their -sons and daughters in the fire, which I commanded them not, neither -came it into my heart.”[160] Revolting at such a sight, Jehovah sends -the same prophet to curse the ground for man’s sake: “Therefore, behold, -the days come, saith the Lord, that it shall no more be called Tophet, -nor the Valley of the Son of Hinnom, but the Valley of Slaughter; for -they shall bury in Tophet till there be no place.”[161] In less than -fourteen years from the announcement of these fearful words the valley -was defiled by King Josiah, who filled it with the bones of the dead, -and thereby rendered it ceremonially unclean, so that no Jew could -enter it.[162] But a more terrible doom awaited it, and a more literal -fulfillment of prophecy was to take place. Here, where the shrine of -Moloch had stood, the last struggle between the Jews and the Romans -occurred,[163] and from the carnage of that bloody scene the vale -received the name of “The Valley of Slaughter.” The dead were here -interred till there was no room to bury others, and the historian -verifies prophecy by this ghastly picture: “Manneus, the son of -Lazarus, came running to Titus at this very time, and told him that -there had been carried out through that one gate no fewer than 115,880 -dead bodies, in the interval between the fourteenth day of the month -Xanthicus, when the Romans pitched their camp by the city, and the -first day of the month Panemus. This was itself a prodigious multitude; -and though this man was not himself set as a governor at that gate, yet -was he appointed to pay the public stipend for carrying these bodies -out, and so was obliged of necessity to number them, while the rest -were buried by their relatives; though all their burial was this, to -bring them away and cast them out of the city. After this man there -ran away to Titus many of the eminent citizens, and told him the entire -number of the poor that were dead, and that no fewer than 600,000 were -thrown out of the gates, though still the number of the rest could not -be discovered.”[164] - -It was in view of the detestable custom of burning human beings to -Moloch in this valley, together with the perpetual fire kept burning -to consume the filth from the city thrown here, that the latter Jews -regarded it a fit emblem of hell, and applied the Greek name of the -valley――Gehenna――to the place of future torments. The receptacle -of the dead carcasses of beasts and of refuse matter, both animal -and vegetable, here the worm sought its food, which, together with -the perpetual fires of the vale, suggested to the Savior’s mind -those solemn words, “Where the worm dieth not, and the fire is not -quenched.”[165] And now, as if by appointment, a deep gloom hangs near -this doomed spot, and the physical features of the valley reflect its -horrid history. The gorge is deep and narrow, the cliffs are broken -and barren, the hill on the north throws its shadow to meet below the -deeper shades of the hill on the south, while the rocks are red as if -scorched by eternal fires. The sides of the Hill of Evil Council, which -rises from its southern side, are perforated with tombs, now the abode -of shepherds and homeless wanderers. Midway up this hill is Aceldama, -the “Potter’s Field,” the price of “thirty pieces of silver.”[166] -Unmarked by boundaries, the field contains a gloomy vault, sixty feet -square and thirty deep; over it is a long massive building of stone, -with an arched roof, but open at each end, and on the bottom lay the -bones of some poor stranger. Strangely inclined to invest all things -connected with New Testament history with the supernatural, the monks -assert that the soil of this field possesses the rare power of reducing -dead bodies to a perfect mould in the brief space of twenty-four -hours; and, according to early writers, the Empress Helena caused -270 ship-loads of it to be removed to Rome, where it was deposited in -the Campo Santo, and where it preserved the bodies of the Romans, but -consumed those of strangers dying in the Eternal City. On the summit -of the hill is a small Latin chapel, standing on the legendary site -of the “country house of Annas,” in which the Jews conspired against -Jesus, and from their “evil council” the hill takes its name. Within -the court of the chapel is the traditional olive-tree on which “Judas -hanged himself.”[167] It is gnarled, pealed, and split, and is the most -villainous-looking tree that ever offended human sight. - -The second section of the ravine is called “The Valley of Gihon.” -Running north and south, its sides and bottom are tilled, covered with -patches of wheat, barley, and lentils, and dotted with olive and other -fruit-trees. Situated in the broadest part of the vale, and directly -opposite the Tomb of David on Mount Zion, is the Lower Pool of Gihon. -It is a reservoir 600 feet long, 260 broad, and forty deep, and, when -full, contains a sheet of water of more than three and a half acres -in extent. Its sides are formed by the opposite hills, which have been -excavated for the purpose, and the ends are inclosed with walls forty -feet high. It is now dry, and the flat ledge of rocks on its eastern -side is used by the peasants for a threshing-floor. Seventy-three yards -to the west is Solomon’s Aqueduct, which, first running parallel with -the western side of this pool, crosses the valley at its northern end, -and, after winding round the base of Zion, gradually ascends the mount, -and enters the Temple inclosure at the southwest corner. It was from -this aqueduct that the Lower Pool was formerly supplied with water. At -the southern end of the pool there is an embankment sufficiently broad -for a road, leading from the Gate of Zion to Bethlehem and Hebron. -In the centre of the path is an artificial fountain, into which water -was conducted from the aqueduct by means of a branch pipe, and thence -distributed into troughs for the accommodation of man and beast. - - Illustration: LOWER POOL OF GIHON. - -It was at this pool the youthful Solomon was anointed king in the -room of his father David, and up the slopes of Zion he ascended, “and -all the people came out after him, and the people piped with pipes, -and rejoiced with great joy, so that the earth rent with the sound of -them.”[168] - -From this point the Valley of the Gihon gradually ascends. Opposite -the Yâffa Gate it is forty feet deep and 500 wide. Here in its ancient -bed three roads meet, one leading to Bethlehem, a second to the home -of Samson, a third to the “hill country of Judea.” From here the -hills recede on either side, and the valley becomes broad and shallow, -covered with grain and planted with olives. Seven hundred yards above -the gate is the Upper Pool of Gihon. It is situated at what may be -properly called the head of the valley, which spreads out into an -almost level plain. Around it is the oldest Moslem cemetery in the -environs of Jerusalem. Like its companion, it is a large tank, 300 feet -long, 200 wide, and twenty deep, formed of hewn stones laid in cement, -and coated with the same. The bottom is reached by two flights of stone -steps. Near the top a stone spout projects from the northern wall, -through which the waters that come down the inclined plains around it -flow into the pool. As there are neither springs nor the remains of -ancient conduits adjoining the reservoir, the original source of its -supply is a matter of conjecture. It probably had some connection -with the Fountain of Gihon, located on the same side of the city, and -which was sealed by King Hezekiah when the Assyrians threatened an -invasion.[169] - -Ahaz was standing here when the intelligence reached him that Rezin, -king of Syria, and Pekah, king of Israel, were approaching Jerusalem -to war against him; and in that critical moment the Lord said unto -Isaiah, “Go forth now to Ahaz, thou and Shear-jashub, thy son, at the -end of the conduit of the upper pool in the highway of the fuller’s -field;”[170] and, thirty years later, here Rabshakeh, with a great army, -stood and delivered the haughty message of Sennacherib to the ministers -of Hezekiah.[171] - -From the bottom of the southern wall of this pool there is now a stone -conduit of rude workmanship, which conducts the water to the Pool of -Hezekiah within the city. It is formed of large stones carelessly laid -together, and for some distance it is subterranean, but rises to the -surface on approaching the town. - -The Pool of Hezekiah is just within the Yâffa Gate, surrounded with -dwellings, and is the oldest fountain in the Holy City. Adjoining -it are the Greek Convent, the residence of the Protestant Bishop of -Jerusalem, the Monastery of the Copts, and the Mediterranean Hotel. -Measuring 250 feet long, 150 wide, and eighteen deep, it is capable of -holding water enough to supply half of the city. The bottom is formed -of the native rock, leveled and coated with cement, and its sides are -walled with solid masonry similarly covered. Though designed to supply -the citizens with drinking-water, it is now a Moslem bath, called -Berket el-Hammân, and usually contains six feet of water. In laying -the foundation for the Coptic Convent, the builder discovered an -ancient wall, two feet thick, constructed of large hewn stones, located -fifty-seven feet from the north wall of the reservoir, and running -parallel to it, proving that the pool is less in dimensions than when -first made, and also attesting its great antiquity. This pool is among -the unquestionable landmarks of the city, and the allusions to it in -the Bible are numerous and explicit. Of Hezekiah it is said, “He made a -pool and a conduit, and brought water into the city;”[172] and that “he -stopped the upper water-course of Gihon, and brought it straight down -to the west side of the city of David.”[173] Threatened by the fierce -Sennacherib, whose powerful army was marching against his capital, -“Hezekiah took counsel with his princes and his mighty men to stop the -water of the fountains which were without the city, and they did help -him. So there was gathered much people together, who stopped all the -fountains, and the brook that ran through the midst of the land, saying, -Why should the kings of Assyria come and find much water?”[174] To -deprive his enemies of water, and, at the same time, provide a supply -for his own subjects, he sealed the fountains outside of the city, and, -by constructing subterranean channels, conducted the water into large -tanks within the walls, among which is the pool that bears his name. -So secretly was the work accomplished, that the fountain of the Gihon -remains a secret with the dead to this day, awaiting the skill and -patience of the explorer to uncover its hidden waters, and trace its -buried channels to their fountain-head. - - Illustration: POOL OF HEZEKIAH. - -In digging to lay the foundation of the English Church on Mount -Zion, the architect came to a vaulted chamber, resting on the living -rock, twenty feet below the surface of the ground, constructed of fine -masonry, and remaining in perfect repair. Entering it, he descended -a flight of stone steps, and at the bottom found an immense conduit, -partly hewn out of the solid rock, and partly built of even courses of -masonry, lined with cement an inch thick. He traced it east and west -for 200 feet, finding, at intervals of several feet, openings in the -upper side, through which buckets could be lowered to dip the water -up. Had permission been granted, he might have traced it to one of the -numerous sealed fountains of the ancient city. - -One thing strikes the student of Jewish history as no less marvelous -than true, that, in all the sieges to which Jerusalem has been -subjected, the citizens never suffered from a destitution of water, -while the besieging armies suffered severely, and were frequently -compelled to bring it from afar. For the want of it, Antiochus Pius, -and after him the Crusaders, were delayed in their attacks upon the -city, while, through all the long and horrid siege by Titus, no citizen -was known to have died of thirst, though thousands perished of hunger. -Lying in a limestone region, Jerusalem contains but few wells and -living fountains, and in its immediate vicinity but little if any -living water is found. To obviate the difficulty, it was necessary to -resort to artificial water-works to supply the demand of the Temple -service, and also of the vast population which thronged the ancient -town. - -Among the public works of Solomon which he himself enumerates -are “pools of water,”[175] constructed not so much to gratify -royal ambition and adorn an already glorious reign as to meet a -real necessity, and confer a genuine benefaction upon his subjects. -Seven miles south of Jerusalem, and two miles south of Bethlehem, are -the “Pools of Solomon.” Collecting the water from one of the largest -springs in Palestine into reservoirs, he conveyed it to his capital -by means of an aqueduct, which still remains, a distance, including -the windings, of more than twelve miles. Following his example, his -successors either completed the works which he had projected, or -originated new ones as occasion demanded. With a climate unchanged, -and a soil as hard as ever, the people of the modern city depend -upon living fountains and the clouds of heaven for their supply of -water. As of old, the most delicious water is brought from a distance, -principally from the fountains in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, which -is brought into the city in goatskins carried on the back of camels -and asses. But attached to each dwelling are one or more cisterns, -excavated in the limestone rock, and measuring from fifteen to thirty -feet long, from eight to thirty broad, and from twelve to twenty -deep. The rain-water is conducted, by means of small pipes from the -flat-roofed buildings, during the rainy season, into these reservoirs, -where it remains pure and sweet for consumption during the dry months -of summer and autumn. - -How beautifully this scarcity of water illustrates many passages of -the Bible, imparting to them a freshness and a reality inconceivable -by one who is a stranger to life in the East. In the nomadic life of -the patriarchs, many were the sharp quarrels and fierce fights over -a well of water. “Abraham reproved Abimelech” because the servants -of the latter had violently driven the herdmen of the former from the -well of Beersheba;[176] the King of Edom refused to allow Moses to -lead the Israelites through his dominions lest his fountains might be -exhausted;[177] the churlish Nabal enumerates water with the articles -he withheld from David;[178] anticipating the feuds that might arise -from drinking of another’s fountain, Solomon advises, “Drink water out -of thy own cistern, and running waters out of thine own well;”[179] -and, ever drawing his figures from nature and the customs of society, -and recalling the value and deliciousness of water, the Savior compares -salvation to a “well of water springing up unto everlasting life,” and -the perennial joy of piety to the happiness of one who “shall never -thirst.”[180] An Oriental can appreciate such an ineffable delight! - - - - - CHAPTER V. - - Laws of the Credibility of Tradition. ―― Dean Trench on Words. - ―― Scenes of the historical Events of Christianity not well - defined. ―― Palm Sunday in Jerusalem. ―― Crossing the Mount - of Olives. ―― Journey to Bethany. ―― Site of the City. ―― Home - of Mary and Martha. ―― Tomb of Lazarus. ―― Christ frequented - Bethany. ―― To his Visits is due its Significance. ―― Touching - Legends. ―― Resurrection of Lazarus. ―― Scene of Christ’s - triumphal March to Jerusalem. ―― Garden of Gethsemane. ―― Old - Gardener. ―― Walls and Iron Gate. ―― Place of Sweet Repose. - ―― Flowers. ―― Pictures. ―― Aged Olive-trees. ―― Overwhelming - Emotions. ―― Ascent of the Mount of Olives. ―― Three Paths. - ―― David’s Ascent. ―― Connection of the Mount with the two - Dispensations. ―― Scene of the Ascension. ―― True Place. ―― - Commanding View from the Summit of Olivet. ―― Passion Week - in Jerusalem. ―― Footsteps of our Lord. ―― Good Friday in - the Holy City. ―― Visit to the Garden. ―― Lord’s Supper. - ―― Sleepless Night. ―― Calvary. ―― True Location. ―― Its - Appearance. ―― Appropriate Place. ―― Via Dolorosa. ―― Pilate’s - Judgment-hall. ―― Ecce Homo Arch. ―― Legendary Stations. ―― - Crucifixion of Christ dramatized by the Latin Monks. ―― The - Procession. ―― Ascent to Calvary. ―― Tumult. ―― Spectators. - ―― Sermons. ―― The Cross. ―― Church of the Holy Sepulchre. - ―― Architecture. ―― Scene in the Court. ―― The Façade. ―― - Imposing Interior. ―― Chapel of the Greeks. ―― Rotunda. ―― - Dome. ―― Holy Sepulchre. ―― Magnificent Decorations. ―― Its - Interior. ―― The Tomb. ―― Holy Shrines. ―― Not the Tomb of - Christ. ―― Difficulties of the Question. ―― Evidence for its - Identity. ―― Objections. ―― Argument against the Site. - - -SOME general laws are yet to be deduced touching the credibility of -tradition as to biblical topography. At present, the traditional sites -of many important events in sacred history are accepted or rejected -according to the taste, creed, or judgment of the traveler. There is a -lack of harmony among chorographers upon the localities where occurred -the great facts of our religion, and not unfrequently eminent scholars -are found maintaining opposite theories. The inspired writers were too -much absorbed in recording the stupendous facts of their history to -define, at all times, with accuracy the boundaries of those places -where such events transpired. Facts, not places, are the burden of -their record. They tell us of the deed, and fearing lest, by adoring -the spot, we might fail to reap the full advantage of the transaction, -they leave the localities subject to inference. Yet they never ignore -the sacredness of places consecrated by memorable deeds, nor could they -have been unconscious of the important relation which frequently exists -between the natural features of the scene and the fact they commend -to our belief. Indeed, the proof of many of their statements depends -upon the exact position of mountain and plain, of valley and river, of -desert and sea, which we are left to gather from close investigation -and comparative induction. Tradition, therefore, has its claims upon -our faith no less than written history. - -The traveler is guided, in his search for sacred places, by the -information derived from three general sources: prevailing tradition, -the language of the common people, and the Bible. The first is reliable -in proportion to its approximation to the event the memory of which -it perpetuates, and to the unity of the rival sects in the land upon -the subject. But, owing to the fact that the prevailing traditions -were first collated and recorded by Eusebius and Jerome in the fourth -century, the absence of any authentic record of such legends during -the three preceding centuries requires us to receive the testimony of -those eminent fathers with due precaution. It is of little moment how -long these traditions have since been received; the question of greater -importance is, How nearly can they be traced to the events the memory -of which they transmit? While with pleasure we accord to those early -fathers varied learning and superior advantages to acquire information, -yet it is due to an intelligent faith to accept what they record only -so far as it is supported by contemporary history and by the harmony -existing between the physical features of the locality and the inspired -account. - -Dean Trench has said that “language is fossil history.”[181] With -slight alterations, the familiar names of the Bible have been preserved -in the Arabic language, which derived them from the Aramean, the -vernacular language of the country when invaded by the Arabs.[182] In -some instances the proper names of large cities have been changed, but -the ancient appellations of rural places are retained, and this not -unfrequently is the only hint to identify some renowned site. But the -marvelous minuteness and accuracy of the Bible constitute it the great -guide-book in the Holy Land, and, when read with care and reflection -upon the spot, in connection with the light derived from other sources, -never fail to lead to right conclusions, and at the same time they -afford the reader the satisfaction of treading in the footsteps of -those illustrious men whose words and deeds are the enduring glory of -our race. - -There is less difficulty in identifying those places connected with -Jewish history than in determining those sites forever sanctified by -the acts and teachings of our Lord. For more than fifteen centuries -the Jews were permanent residents in the land, and during that long -and prosperous period they reared monuments commemorative of historic -events, which the spoliations of war have not been sufficient to efface, -nor the attritions of time able to destroy; hence, without a doubt, the -traveler of to-day stands with delight within their ancient cities, or -lingers with melancholy interest amid their ruined towns. - -It is otherwise, however, with Christian antiquities. The Founder of -our faith was but a sojourner in the land, and his followers failed -to become a distinct and ruling people till the early part of the -fourth century. Always oppressed, and never respected, till the son of -Helena bore the Cross in triumph to the gates of Jerusalem, they were -without the rights and destitute of the means to perpetuate by enduring -monuments the memory of those places hallowed by the presence of the -Great Teacher of mankind. Driven from the city in the year 69 A.D., -they were compelled to seek an asylum at Pella, on the eastern bank of -the Jordan, near Jabesh Gilead, and for seventy years thereafter, from -its capture by Titus to its rebuilding by Adrian, Jerusalem ceased to -be the home of the Christians. It is not, therefore, surprising, that -during the exile of so many years hallowed sites should have passed to -the shades of oblivion, and that any attempt to recall them now should -be attended with some uncertainty. - -Though unable at all times to stand with confidence where Jesus stood, -and walk where he walked, it is nevertheless a source of unspeakable -delight to know that Jerusalem is the city in which he taught; that -there are the skies he sat beneath; there the hills and vales he -traversed; there the garden of his agony; and that rising above is -Olivet, whose flowers were moistened with his tears, whose echoes were -awakened by his prayers, and whose summit was the last spot of earth -pressed by his adorable feet. - -Palm Sunday dawned upon the Holy City in all the beauty of a Syrian -spring. A sweet repose pervaded earth and sky; the very air was at rest, -and a vernal sun shone softly from skies of a purple tint. It was the -anniversary of our Lord’s triumphal entry into the city of David, and -I was in the spirit to join the imaginary throng on the same highway, -and shout, “Blessed is he who cometh in the name of the Lord; Hosanna -in the highest.” From early dawn, through all the lanes and streets of -the city, pilgrims were hastening to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, -thronging the spacious aisles, rotundas, and lateral chapels of that -venerable edifice. Differing from the Greeks a moon or a month as to -the time of the festival, the Latins were assembled in their Franciscan -chapel adjoining the rotunda. The altar was decorated with vases of -flowers, and over it were suspended palm-branches, the symbol of the -day. The bishop and officiating priests were attired in their elegant -robes; a noble organ pealed forth the responses to the intoned service, -and in the vast audience were monks and nuns, officers of the state and -of the army, and pilgrims and strangers from all lands. - -The scene of our Lord’s triumphal march from Bethany to Jerusalem is no -less distinctly marked by a universally received tradition than by the -everlasting hills and valleys whose awakening echoes responded to the -anthems of the rejoicing multitude. The distance from the Holy City to -Bethany is correctly stated by the Evangelist as fifteen furlongs, or a -little less than two miles, counting eight furlongs to the Roman mile. -The ancient path leads from St. Stephen’s Gate down the steep sides -of Moriah, and, after crossing the stone bridge that spans the Kidron, -ascends to the walls of Gethsemane. From the garden three roads lead to -the village home of Lazarus. One, winding up a slight depression in the -western side of Olivet, sweeps round the hamlet of Jebel et-Tûr, which -crowns the summit, and descends the green slopes on the eastern side. -The second branches from the first just above the garden, and, winding -upward, skirts the valley on the south, intersecting the former a -short distance above Bethany. The third, which is the most ancient and -frequented of the three, turns to the right below the garden wall, and, -following the devious base of Olivet on the south, leads to Bethany, -to Jericho, and to the heights of Moab beyond the Jordan. In the East, -the land itself is not older than the great highways of the nation. -Chosen alike for ease and directness, the valleys and mountain slopes -are the principal thoroughfares, which, to succeeding generations, -remain the landmarks of the past. - -Crossing the Mount of Olives, in less than half an hour I reached -the native town of Lazarus. From the numerous date-palms that once -flourished in its environs the village was called Bethany, or the -“House of Dates;” but, in honor of him who was raised from the dead, it -bears the name of El-Lazirêyeh.[183] It is situated in a semicircular -vale, with an opening toward the east to admit the morning’s earliest -light. Amid groves of olive, fig, and almond trees are twenty Arab huts, -containing 100 inhabitants. The villagers are quiet and happy, and the -half-nude children leap for joy on the reception of a few piastres for -the milk and fruit they sell to strangers. All the Bible memories of -the place are cherished by the people, and an old man is in waiting to -point out the traditional sites. - -In the absence of positive proof either for or against these legendary -places, the traveler is left to his own conclusions, drawn from history -and from the probabilities of location. Of the house of Simon but -little remains, and only a fragment of the residence of Lazarus has -survived the waste of ages. The latter occupies a commanding position -on a scarped rock, and in its day was a building of some elegance. -Formed of large beveled stones, it was twenty-one feet square. From -the top of a remaining arch a prospect of singular beauty opens to view -through the ravine on the east, and, no doubt, often was enjoyed by the -master and his three friends. - -Archæologists have called in question the identity of this ruin, -and have claimed it as the remains of the Convent of the Black Nuns, -founded in 1132 A.D. by Mesilinda, Queen of Fulco of Jerusalem, over -which she placed her sister Ireta as abbess, a matron of approved piety. -Yet it is highly probable that, as Bethany has always been inhabited, -and as the recollection of the raising of a man from the dead would be -among those longest and most tenaciously cherished by a people, either -this arch is a part of the stone house which tradition asserts to have -been occupied by Lazarus and his sisters, or, if the remains of the -convent of Mesilinda, it marks the spot where he resided. - - Illustration: BETHANY. - -Under the brow of a hill in the northeast part of the town is the -supposed tomb of Lazarus. Twenty-six stone steps lead to a vaulted -chamber twenty-two feet below the surface of the ground, which is -excavated in the rock, and measures eleven feet long, nine wide, and -seventeen high. On the left a small door opens to a narrow vault where -the dead once rested. Bearing marks of great antiquity, there is no -reason to doubt the identity of this tomb. The saying of those Jews -who came to comfort Mary, that “she goeth unto the grave to weep,”[184] -would indicate, at first, that her brother had been interred some -distance from the town; this, however, does not necessarily follow, -as the same remark would be appropriate if the sepulchre was in the -village, whatever may have been the distance from her dwelling. - -Like many other Syrian towns, Bethany has risen to importance, -and inherits an imperishable name from the presence and miracles of -Jesus. It was to Judea what Capernaum was to Galilee――the scene of -his greatest works, and the place where he delivered his most sublime -lessons of wisdom and love. When the ingratitude of Jerusalem forced -him from her gates, he sought repose in Bethany, as, when driven by the -Nazarenes from his native city, he selected Capernaum as the place of -his adoption. Bethany was his temporary abode in his frequent journeys -from Moab to Judea. Coming from the land of Moab, “a certain woman -named Martha received him into her house;”[185] and from the same -region he came to raise Lazarus from the dead.[186] At a later period, -here he dined in the house of Simon the leper;[187] here the grateful -Mary washed his feet with tears, and wiped them with the hairs of her -head,[188] and from an alabaster box, which “she had kept against the -day of his burial,” she poured the precious ointment on his head as he -sat at meat. From this humble village he made his triumphant entry into -Jerusalem, and here, in the house of pious orphanage, he spent the last -night but one prior to his crucifixion. - -There is a touching legend in the East that the father of Lazarus -was a pious Levite, and his mother a Jewish matron, after the model -of Hannah and Elizabeth; that Lazarus himself was a scribe, who -gained a living by copying the Law and the Prophets for the various -synagogues in Palestine, and that Mary and Martha devoted their time -to needle-work――embroidering veils for the Temple and garments for the -priests; that previous to the visits of Jesus to Bethany the parents -had ascended to their reward, leaving on earth their three orphan -children; that the native sweetness of their spirit, the purity of -their devotion, and their constant attention to his recurring wants, -engaged his affection and secured his benediction; that here, in their -midst, he laid aside the awful grandeur of Teacher and Judge of mankind, -and in all the refined amenities of social life he displayed the finer -traits of his character, which were hidden from the common eye. And how -intimate must have been that friendship for the care-burdened Martha to -come to him with her little domestic troubles;[189] and how tender the -attachment for those stricken sisters to think only of him when their -brother died. A greater benefactor than beneficiary, he rewarded those -pious sisters with a gift worthy of a God. The brief but sad message -they sent him――“Lord, behold, he whom thou lovedst is sick”――awakened -all the deeper emotions of his friendship. Though even a melancholy -relief to be with those we love in the hour of death, yet, that the -Son of Man might be glorified, Jesus delayed his coming till after -the demise and burial of his friend. Many a time had those sorrowing -sisters passionately exclaimed, “Oh that the Master were here!” Coming -from the fountains of Bethabara, he sought the sepulchre of Lazarus. -Omnipotence stirred within him; a groan for life escaped his lips, -a prayer entered heaven that knew no denial, a voice was heard in -the spirit world calling back a departed soul to earth and to a new -probation. That voice was obeyed. Lazarus came forth, and joy filled -the hearts of those orphan sisters.[190] And now, after the lapse of -so many centuries, the inspired story, read upon the spot, has all the -freshness of reality; and though time has marred the beauty of that -mountain home, and borne to the grave the friends of Jesus, yet Mary’s -alabaster box of costly ointment and spikenard, very precious, is still -fragrant with the odor of undying love, and “wheresoever this gospel is -preached throughout the whole world, this also that she hath done shall -be spoken of for a memorial of her.”[191] - -In the month of March of the succeeding spring Jesus was again -in Bethany. The moment of his triumph had come. The shouts of the -people awaited the presence of their King. On the previous day he had -descended from the Mountains of Moab, crossed the Jordan, traversed the -Plain of Jericho, restored eyesight to the importunate Bartimeus, and -dined with Zaccheus.[192] Resuming his journey, he passed round the -base of Quarrantania, the scene of his temptation, crossed the Brook -Cherith, where Elijah was fed by the ravens, ascended the Vale of Achor, -where Achan was stoned to death, entered the wilderness of Judea, the -scene of the parable of the good Samaritan, and, continuing his upward -march, reached Bethany as the sun descended behind the heights of -Gibeon. That night he was entertained in the house of Simon the leper. -Attracted to Bethany to attend the feast of Simon and behold Lazarus, -who had been raised from the dead, a vast multitude were the next -morning on their way to Jerusalem.[193] - -Solemnly intending to assert his regal rights and fulfill an ancient -prophecy,[194] Jesus dispatched two of his disciples to secure an ass -for the triumphal occasion. A knowledge of his coming had reached the -countless strangers who had assembled in the Holy City to celebrate the -Passover, and who, seized by a sudden inspiration that bore every heart -upon its resistless wave, hastened to greet their coming King. Passing -through the palm-groves that formerly lined the path, they cut down the -lengthened branches, and descended toward Bethany with shouts of -triumph. - -Spreading their loose garments upon the unsaddled ass, the disciples -had set their Master thereon, who was slowly approaching the city of -David. At length the descending and ascending processions met, and -in the rapture of the moment vied with each other in expressions of -gladness and in tokens of respect. Those who had escorted him from -Bethany threw from their shoulders their loose robes, and, spreading -them on the highway, formed a temporary carpet for his triumphal march; -and those who had come from Jerusalem spread their palm-branches before -him, while from that vast multitude arose that more than regal shout, -“Hosanna to the Son of David! Blessed is he who cometh in the name -of the Lord! Hosannah in the highest!”[195] It was the hour of the -exaltation of the Son of God. The people had gathered unto Shiloh; -the visions of the past were realized, and prophecy was fulfilled. - -The interruption over, the great procession re-formed. Those who had -come from Jerusalem, turning round, led the advance; those who had come -from Bethany brought up the rear; while in the centre Jesus rode in -triumph. - -Midway the two cities, the ancient path burrows the side of Olivet, -and, after sweeping round a deep ravine, ascends a shoulder of the -sacred mount, where the whole city, as by enchantment, bursts upon the -view. Where now appears the Tomb of David then were seen the palaces -of Herod, and where now stands the Mosque of Omar then stood the Jewish -Temple. Charmed by a vision so grand, the people again shouted, but, -unelated by the praise or view, “Jesus beheld the city, and wept over -it.” While the scenic grandeur of the prospect thrilled the multitude -with joy, the view of a doomed city caused him to shed more than human -tears. Once more the procession advanced. Descending a shelving path, -with the groves of Gethsemane on the right and the Tomb of Absalom on -the left, the Savior crossed the Kidron, and, mounting the sides of -Moriah, he entered his Temple amid the astonishment of enemies and the -acclamation of friends. - -At the junction of the three roads which lead to Bethany is the Garden -of Gethsemane. It is a quiet spot, and wears the air of sweet repose. -Formerly it was open and accessible to all, but now it is surrounded by -a stone wall twenty feet high. It is an area of 120 feet east and west, -and 150 north and south. The entrance is through a low iron gate on the -eastern side, and the keeper is an old Franciscan monk. With a skillful -hand he has transformed the inclosure into a pretty but not gorgeous -garden. On the east are three terraces, adorned with flowers. On the -first is a well of delicious water, covered with trellis-work, on which -are vines, and in the northeast corner is the monk’s cell. A graveled -walk follows the circuit of the walls, and on the interior of the walls -are pictures representing memorable scenes in the last night of our -Lord’s life. The centre of the area is inclosed with a high picket -fence, and the ground within is laid out in flower-beds. As memorials -of the past, he has cultivated the graceful but bitter wormwood, and -also the beautiful passion-flower――the symbol of agony. Near them are a -few palms and cypresses. With parental care he has nourished the eight -remaining olive-trees, beneath which he thinks the fearful struggle -occurred. They bear marks of great age, and are now the oldest on the -face of the earth. Their trunks are gnarled and hollow, their foliage -scanty, and, true to their species in old age, their roots are far -above the ground, but at present covered with an artificial soil. One, -more venerable than the rest, is seven feet in circumference, and has -separated into four parts from the roots upward to the branches; a -second is twisted with age; and a third is hollow. But the branches -are strong, the leaf green, and from the aged roots young trees are -sprouting――successors to these patriarchal shades. - - Illustration: GETHSEMANE AND THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. - -Gethsemane is the only place in all my travels I hesitated for a -moment to visit. I had passed it many times before, but always felt -unwilling to disturb its solemn repose. But, unattended by companion -or guide, I determined to enter. Rapping on the low gate, the venerable -Franciscan bade me welcome. His countenance was pale with watchings, -and a pensive smile played over his dry and wrinkled face. Entering -his solitary cell, he left me alone. Not a sound disturbed the quiet -of the hour. Kneeling beneath an aged olive, I gave myself up to the -undisturbed reflections and hallowed memories of the place. The story -of our Lord’s agony had a reality I had never before experienced. -This lonely vale, these ancient hills, these serene skies, heard the -Sufferer’s cry. Here the compassionate Redeemer lay prostrate upon the -ground, and, yielding to his Father’s will, accepted the cup of death. -Here descended that kind angel who strengthened the fainting Savior. -Here resounded the horrid tramp of that ruffian band, whose huge staves -smote the earth, and whose swords glittered in the starlight. Here -the betrayer’s signal-kiss polluted the cheek of innocence, and the -Master’s words of surprise startled the dull ear of night. Here the -impetuous spirit of Peter, gaining the mastery of his discretion, moved -him to smite off the ear of Malchus; and, losing sight of the dangers -that threatened him, and unmindful of the hatred of his foes, the -benevolent Savior asked as an unselfish favor, “Suffer ye thus far, and -he touched his ear and healed him.” Here the Shepherd was smitten and -the flock scattered. Here John fled, leaving the linen cloth in the -hands of the ruffians, and Jesus was led to judgment. It was passing -strange to be in such a place. - -At every station where Israel had encamped _en route_ for the Mount of -the Law; on the awful summit of Sinai; beside the cave of Machpelah and -the tomb of Rachel; in the stable of the Nativity at Bethlehem; along -the Jordan; on Zion, Moriah, and Olivet; and on Gibeon, where Solomon -received a wise and understanding heart, I had offered my devotions to -God; but Gethsemane seemed the nearest to heaven in the hour of prayer. - -Gathering a few flowers and olive leaves for loved ones at home, I -left the garden with impressions as blessed as they are imperishable, -and began the ascent of Olivet. The Mount of Olives is no less -memorable in the annals of Jewish and Christian history than its aspect -is impressive to the eye of the beholder. Rising 2800 feet above the -Mediterranean, its base is 1000 feet from the city, and its summit half -a mile from St. Stephen’s Gate. Having an elevation of more than 400 -feet above the bed of the Kidron Valley at “Absalom’s Pillar,” it is -104 feet higher than the crown of Zion, and rises 127 feet above the -summit-level of Mount Moriah. Owing to its irregular outline, both its -form and cardinal points are difficult to define. Its general direction -is north and south, with spurs shooting out toward every point of the -compass, and its location agrees with the description by the prophet, -who places it before Jerusalem on the east.[196] Including the Hill -of Scandal, it may be said to have three peaks, though with equal -propriety Scopus might be enumerated among them. Topographically -this may be correct, but historically the Hill of Scandal is too -far southwest to be included as a part of Olivet, as Mount Scopus is -too far north. The two adjacent peaks are distinct, the northern one -bearing the name of Galilee, from the supposition that there the angels -addressed the Galileans, and the southern one, called by the Arabs -Jebel et-Tûr, but by the Christians the Mount of Ascension. - -The sides of the mountain gently descend east and west, and are -streaked horizontally with stripes of green and gray. From base to -summit it is terraced and planted with olives, from which the mount -derives its name. Though rough and stony, yet in spring-time and summer -flowers bloom upon it luxuriantly. On its broad and level summit is -the small village of Jebel et-Tûr, clustering around the Church of -the Ascension, and, in turn, is surrounded by fields of grain. From -Gethsemane three paths lead to this Arab town; one strikes up boldly -along a projecting cliff, a second winds up more gradually to the south, -while the third follows a gentle ravine, and is the most ancient of -the three. It was up the latter path David fled from the rebellion of -Absalom, “weeping as he went up, with his head uncovered, and his feet -bare.” On the summit, where he lingered to worship, he was met by the -faithful Hushai, who, by the king’s command, returned to the city to -defeat the counsels of Ahithophel. Just over the hill-top the kind Ziba -met the royal fugitive with refreshments. And not far down the eastern -declivities is Bahurim, where the cowardly Shimei cursed the king, -and where the heroic Abishai was impatient to vindicate his insulted -master.[197] - -This is, no doubt, the path Jesus frequented when returning to -Bethany after the thankless labors of the day in the Holy City. And how -significantly do these two reverent names recall the history of Olivet, -as associated with the two great dispensations of our religion. On its -summit was the Luna Station, from which the first appearance of the new -moon was announced by torch-light signals to the priests of the Temple, -which had been previously seen and communicated in the same manner by -those stationed on the loftier peaks of Moab. Somewhere on its upland -slopes stood two cedar-trees, beneath which pigeons were sold as -offerings for purification. In one of its depressions was the lavatory, -where unclean persons washed preparatory to presenting themselves -before the Lord. At its base the red heifer was burnt, the ashes of -which were preserved for the purification of the people,[198] and -crowning the summit the Shekinah rested, like a cloud of glory, -when forced from the Holy of Holies by the ingratitude of a fallen -people.[199] - -But, contemplated in its connection with the private life and public -ministry of our Lord, Olivet has a higher significance to the Christian, -and awakens within him profounder emotions. It was his house of prayer, -where he ofttimes resorted with his disciples.[200] From some of its -shaded slopes, with the city full in view, he predicted the final -overthrow of Jerusalem.[201] With a matchless purity of thought -and diction, he delivered to his disciples the parables of the “Ten -Virgins,” of the “Five Talents,” and concluded his marvelous discourse -by a description of the “Last Judgment.”[202] At its base he was -betrayed,[203] and from its summit he ascended to glory. - -Charmed with the purity of his life, convinced of the divinity of his -person, and conscious of a debt of gratitude for his vicarious death, -the Christian seeks the exact spot where for the last time he touched -our earth. But, wisely neglecting to designate any particular portion -of the Mount, the Evangelists point us to Olivet as the place of -ascension. According to Eusebius, the traditional site is directly -opposite St. Stephen’s Gate, and, prior to the visit of St. Helena, was -visited by pilgrims from all lands. To honor the spot and commemorate -the event, the mother of Constantine ordered the erection of a church -upon the site, which, in the waste of time, has given place to a -humbler structure. By a singular amalgamation, it stands connected with -a Mohammedan mosque, whose solitary minaret is seen from afar. - -The tradition, however, does too much violence to the text to claim for -a moment the intelligent faith of the present age. He led them out as -far as to Bethany,[204] and they returned unto Jerusalem from the Mount -called Olivet, which is from Jerusalem a Sabbath-day’s journey,[205] -are the only authentic intimations we have of the place, and the only -data from which we can draw our conclusions. Though “as far as to -Bethany” is indefinite, it is sufficiently explicit to throw doubt -upon the traditional site, and to lead us to search for another more -in harmony with the spirit and letter of the text. To the southeast of -the village there is a narrow isthmus, connecting the peak on which it -stands with one of less altitude and more retired. It is one mile, or -a “Sabbath-day’s journey,” from St. Stephen’s Gate, and overlooks the -little town of Bethany, lying 500 yards below the cliff. From the ruins -which lay scattered on the rocks beneath the isthmus, it is evident -that Bethany once extended farther to the northwest than at present, -which more completely corresponds with the distance as stated by -St. Luke. But it is enough that Olivet extends toward the home of -Lazarus a “Sabbath-day’s journey” from Jerusalem, and that from its -summit Jesus ascended to glory, leading captivity captive, and giving -gifts to men. It is enough that these hills saw the Prince of life and -glory rise, and leaped for joy; that these valleys beheld him ascend, -and swelled with delight; and these skies reached down their ethereal -arms to bear him on high. It is enough that earth is linked to heaven, -humanity is the abode of divinity, and a descendant of Adam is on the -throne of the universe. Let us adore! - -In all the Holy Land there is not a nobler panoramic view to be enjoyed -than the one which greets the eye from the Mount of Olives. Owing to -the extreme transparency of the atmosphere, and to the absence of that -peculiar haze which lends such an enchanting perspective to the Italian -landscape, distance at times seems annihilated, and remote objects -appear to view with extraordinary distinctness of form and outline. -Sweeping over an area of more than twenty miles, the prospect is as -varied as it is grand. Turning to the north, the eye rests on Mizpeh, -where Samuel held his court and Israel gathered for judgment; hard by -are Gibeon and Ajalon, where the sun and moon paused in their brilliant -course; while far to the northward is Michmash, the scene of Jonathan’s -exploits; and nearer are Gibeah of Saul and “poor little Anathoth,” -where the weeping eyes of Jeremiah first saw the light. Looking -eastward, desolation and beauty compose the landscape. From Bethany to -Jericho, and for many miles north and south, is the wilderness of Judea, -sinking down to the verdureless shore of the Dead Sea, whose shining -waters are seen through the opening cliffs. Far down in the deep chasm -through which the Jordan flows appear the green banks of the sacred -river, and beyond rise the Mountains of Moab, vast and craggy, and -colored with “chatozant tents of azure-red.” On the south is the rich -Plain of Rephaim, where Daniel heard the “sound of a going in the -tops of the mulberry-trees,”[206] and farther on are seen the Convent -of Elias, the domes of Bethlehem, and the Frank Mountain――the “Tomb -of Herod the Great,” while to the west and at your feet is the “City -of the Great King;” and to no other city does distance lend such -“enchantment to the view.” In walking its streets and in mingling in -the careless throng who share not in the grateful memories of the place, -the charm of its hallowed associations is broken; but when viewed from -the summit of Olivet, the spell of history entrances the soul, the -attention becomes serious and fixed, the eyes dreamy and motionless. - -The interest experienced in standing on any historic site is increased -by being present on the anniversary of the event which has given -significance to the place. There is in such a coincidence somewhat of -reality at no other time realized, and the emotions excited on such an -occasion are no less tender than real; and to read a description of the -great transaction as written by an eyewitness amid the scenes of its -occurrence invests the present with the actuality of the past, and one -fondly imagines he beholds what transpired centuries ago. It is in view -of such apparent facts that “Passion Week” in Jerusalem has an interest -to the Christian traveler not common to any other period of the year, -and, conscious of such an advantage, pilgrims from all lands assemble -in the Holy City at that time to recall in imagination the memorable -events which occurred during the last week of our Lord’s earthly career. -Indebted to the Evangelists for our knowledge of what Jesus said and -did on the six days preceding his death, we could wish the narrative -more consecutive and the description more complete. - -On Sunday he made his triumphal entry into Jerusalem as King of the -Jews.[207] On Monday he cursed the barren fig-tree,[208] drove the -money-changers from the court of the Temple for the second time,[209] -and asserted his authority in the presence of his enemies.[210] On -Tuesday he entered the Temple for the last time, was questioned again -as to his authority, delivered in reply several impressive parables, -warned the people against the corruptions of the age, pronounced -the most fearful woes on Scribe and Pharisee, and foretold the last -judgment and his second coming.[211] On Wednesday Judas contracted -with the chief priests for the betrayal of his Master, while our Lord -himself spent the day, either at Bethany or on the Mount of Olives, -in preparation for the solemn events that were crowding upon the heel -of time.[212] On Thursday he kept the Passover,[213] instituted the -sacramental supper in commemoration of his death,[214] laid aside -his vestments and washed his disciples’ feet; foretold his own death, -his betrayal by Judas, and Peter’s denial of his Lord; comforted his -apostles, and exhorted them to mutual love; promised them the Holy -Ghost, offered the customary sacerdotal prayer, and, having sung a -hymn, in the darkness and stillness of that night, attended by a few -chosen friends, he passed over the “Brook Kidron,” entered the Garden -of Gethsemane to endure the agony for the world’s redemption; was there -betrayed, arrested, forsaken by his disciples, led into the city for -trial before Annas and Caiaphas, denied by Peter, and imprisoned till -morning.[215] In the gray of the dawn on Friday he was accused before -Pilate, “set at naught by Herod and his men of war,” and at midday, -bearing his own cross, he was led out to Calvary, where, at the ninth -hour, he expiated by his death the sins of the world.[216] - -Following in the footsteps of the Master, on Good Friday eve I -descended the acclivities of Moriah, crossed the same stone bridge over -which he had passed,[217] and, entering the Garden of Gethsemane, I sat -down beneath the aged olive-trees, and read the touching story of his -passion. Returning to the city, in an “upper room,” in company with -a few friends, I partook of the Lord’s Supper. That night I could not -sleep. Walking out upon the house-top, I looked down upon Gethsemane. -Unbroken silence reigned. The city slumbered. The lights around the -balcony of the minaret burned dimly. The night wind blew softly from -over the deep sea. The paschal moon was descending in the west. A -silvery haze, like a gauze of purity, overspread the serene heavens. -It was four o’clock in the morning. From an adjacent court-yard a cock -announced the dawn of day. The distant east began to glow with the -morning’s earliest light. It was Good Friday in Jerusalem――the hour -and the event of all time. Well may Christian affection ask, “Where is -Calvary?” Who would not approach such a place in silent prayer? Wisely -its identity is unknown to earth. Though its location is the first -object of research by the Christian traveler when he enters the Holy -City, yet it is the last to be determined with satisfaction. Tradition -designates a rock, inclosed within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, -as the Mount of Crucifixion; but the site involves a controversy so -complicated, that the mind prefers the recollection of the event to -the examination of the argument. Rejecting this legendary Calvary of -the monks, I sought for one more in harmony with the topography of the -city and with the casual allusions of the Evangelists. Though it is -now impossible to identify Golgotha with certainty, yet topographical -facts and sacred history are so concurrent that the mind is left almost -without a doubt as to the direction of the place. - -As the final scene in our Lord’s trial occurred in the Tower of Antonia, -which was near St. Stephen’s Gate, it is more than probable that the -executioners, instead of leading Jesus through the crowded and excited -city, led him out of this, the nearest gate. And as at that time there -was no place suitable for capital executions either on the south, -west, or north side of Jerusalem, we must search for one on the east -side of the city. According to St. John, “The place where Jesus was -crucified was nigh unto the city,”[218] and St. Paul assures us that -Christ suffered without the gate.[219] As the priests of old were -accustomed to drive the red heifer to sacrifice, and the scapegoat to -the wilderness, out of the eastern gate of the Temple inclosure, so it -would be only another instance of the remarkable correspondence between -the types of the Old Testament and the life of Jesus if the Jews, -though unwittingly, led the Savior to execution out of St. Stephen’s -Gate. Where, then, should Calvary be sought for but in the environs of -Jerusalem on the east? - -Toward the northeast corner of the city wall the sides of Bezetha -are steep, rocky, and broken. There desolation is complete, and -the seclusion profound. The Kidron Valley winds around those rugged -declivities, and the opposite sides of Olivet are barren and cheerless. -Midway the hill there is a projecting rock, not unlike in form a human -skull; on the north of it, a small ravine descends into the vale below, -and just beneath it, on the east, the highway passes to the Heights -of Benjamin. The sides are steep and covered with black moss. The term -Calvary neither implies, nor is it used to designate a mount, but, -coming from the Latin _calvaria_ or _calva_, means a skull. If Golgotha -is descriptive of a place where skulls lay uninterred, then this -location agrees well with the sense of the word, as the dead that were -here interred were so slightly covered with earth that the bones of -such now lay scattered upon the ground; or if, as is more probable, it -is the designation of a place where violent deaths occurred――the place -for the capital punishment of criminals, whose bones, after the flesh -had been devoured by wild beasts, lay bleaching in the sun, then -this, of all other portions of the environs of the city, is singularly -adapted for such a melancholy purpose. - -Reason and Scripture alike point to this spot as the scene of that -great death, which has no parallel in suffering as it has no equal in -results. Reading the four Evangelists from the brow of this desolate -rock, all the details of the inspired account appeared fulfilled -with an exactitude not unworthy an intelligent faith. Coming out of -St. Stephen’s Gate, the mournful procession proceeded along that -ancient road on which Simon of Cyrene was returning from the country, -to whom fell the honorable part to bear the cross of the fainting -Son of God.[220] Reaching this desolate scene, the horrid tragedy was -enacted. The place was no less appropriate to the mind of the Divine -Sufferer than to those who were the instruments of his death. It is -nigh unto the city that had rejected him.[221] Before him rose Olivet, -his bower of prayer; beneath his eye lay Gethsemane, the scene of his -agony; while, as if to mitigate the sorrow of the final struggle and -light up the darkest hour of his life, the Mount of Ascension rose -in grandeur before him, crowned with the glory of his exaltation. -Around the cross, both on the summit of Bezetha and on the slopes of -Olivet beyond, is room for the multitude who had assembled to witness -the melancholy spectacle, and for those women who, “beholding afar -off,”[222] “bewailed and lamented him.”[223] From the adjacent walls -of the city the chief priests, scribes, and elders beheld him, and -mockingly said, “He saved others, himself he can not save.”[224] On the -road which passed beneath the cross came those Jewish travelers who, -on reading Pilate’s superscription, wagged their heads in disdain, and -tauntingly greeted him, saying, “Thou that destroyest the Temple and -buildest it in three days, save thyself.”[225] Here the rocks are torn -and riven; for when he gave up the ghost, “the earth did quake and -the rocks were rent.”[226] In the hill-side are tombs, which probably -are “the graves that were opened, and from which the saints who slept -arose.”[227] Down in the sequestered vale of the Kidron are gardens, -where some old sepulchres still remain, any one of which answers well -the description of the Savior’s tomb――“Now in the place where he was -crucified there was a garden, and in the garden a new sepulchre.”[228] -Where else in the environs of the Holy City should Joseph, a rich -man of Arimathea, have his own new tomb but in the renowned Valley -of Jehoshaphat, where sleep in death his ancestors, whose sepulchral -monuments continue to this day? And where within the circuit of the -city of his rejection should Jesus rise triumphant from the grave but -in sight of the garden of his sorrow, the rock of his crucifixion, and -the mount of his ascension? - -The Via Dolorosa is a lane-like street, narrow and crooked, -leading from St. Stephen’s Gate to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, -and its dolorous name is no less significant of the tragical events -which, according to tradition, occurred along its course, than of -its forbidding and gloomy aspect. Like the “street which is called -straight” in Damascus, and the Via Sacra in ancient Rome, the Via -Dolorosa has a world-wide renown. Its windings, its rough pavement, its -prison-like walls――penetrated with low doorways and grated windows――its -rude arcade, excluding the sunlight and casting a deeper gloom within, -sadden the mind, and are in keeping with the monkish legends that -have given to it universal notoriety. Along this dreary walk, amid its -shadows and solemn memories, a wounded spirit finds companionship. As -the industrious shrine-makers of this and of other ages, the monks have -consecrated eight stations in this narrow street, commemorative of as -many events in our Lord’s journey from the dungeons of Antonia to the -site of Calvary. In the northern wall of the Temple area are the two -arches, now walled up, where stood Pilate’s staircase, down which -our Lord descended after his sentence was pronounced, and directly -opposite is the Church of Flagellation, marking the place where he was -scourged. Not many paces to the west is the _Ecce Homo_ arch, where -Pilate exclaimed to the infuriated mob, “Behold the man!” At the bottom -of a gentle descent the lane turns to the left, and then to the right. -Beyond this angle is shown a deep impression in the solid stone wall, -made by the shoulder of Jesus when he leaned against it at the time he -fainted. Near it is the house of St. Veronica, the illustrious woman -who presented the Savior with a handkerchief to wipe his bleeding brow. -From her residence to the terminus of the street the gloom and silence -are painful; and at well-apportioned intervals are indicated, by broken -columns, the places where Simon was compelled to bear the Redeemer’s -cross, where Jesus addressed the weeping daughters of Jerusalem, and -where his tragical death occurred. - - Illustration: VIA DOLOROSA AND THE ARCH OF THE ECCE HOMO. - -Throughout Good Friday groups of pious pilgrims were threading the -Via Dolorosa and offering their prayers at its legendary shrines. -That night the Latin monks dramatized the crucifixion of Christ in the -Church of the Holy Sepulchre. At an early hour the venerable Church -of St. Helena was thronged with natives and strangers, consisting -of Greeks, Latins, Copts, Armenians, Turks, and Franks. To prevent a -disturbance, the military governor of the city had ordered a detachment -of Turkish soldiers to be present. Among the dignitaries in attendance -to witness the fictitious tragedy were foreign consuls attended by -liveried cawasses, a hundred French officers, with their orderlies, who -had that day arrived from Beîrut, and prominent among the distinguished -persons was Lessep, the famous canal-digger, who had ascended from -Egypt in an improvised chariot drawn by a pair of the noblest camels, -and was the first who had crossed that ancient road since the day of -Roman chariots. - -It was past eight o’clock when the solemn drama was opened with the -recitation of prayers in the sacristy of the Latin chapel. The light of -a hundred gold and silver lamps, fed by olive-oil, scarcely dispelled -the darkness of the hour. At 9 P.M. the pageant was fully commenced, -and the long procession began its march, each person bearing a wax -taper that shone dimly on the air of night. First came Augustine friars, -attired in brown cowls and cassocks; then followed a stalwart monk, -bearing an immense cross of light-colored wood, curiously figured. On -the cross was nailed the carved figure of a man, covered with thorns, -from whose side the life-blood was flowing, and around whose loins -was drawn a white linen cloth. Behind the crucifix came two choirs of -monks and catechumens robed in white, chanting a funeral dirge, with -responsive chorus; following the singers was Rome’s eminent prelate, -the patriarchal Bishop of Jerusalem, crowned with a gold mitre, wearing -a black velvet cloak richly trimmed with gold lace, and bearing in his -right hand a gold crucifix adorned with jewels; following in his train -were priests of lesser rank in dark robes, and barefooted friars with -shaven heads, to imitate the crown of thorns, and nuns in blue and -black garments and white linen bonnets; and next came the French -consul, the military officers, the common soldiers, poor pilgrims, and -strangers from all nations, whose devotion or curiosity prompted them -to join the imposing procession. - -Within the church are lateral chapels, regarded as shrines by the pious, -such as the prison of Christ, the chapel where he was bound, where he -was mocked, and where his vestments were divided by the Roman soldiers. -At the chapels the procession halted to listen to sermons preached -in the Italian, French, German, Arabic, and English languages. It was -near midnight when the procession reached the foot of Calvary. Slowly -ascending the rude steps cut in the solid rock, the heavy cross was -set in its original resting-place on the summit. In imitation of the -supernatural darkness, every light was extinguished. At that moment a -tumult occurred. The rough voice of derision rose above the universal -clamor, and echoed through the aisles and arches of that ancient -building, as the Turkish soldiers charged upon the people. Enraged at -the insult offered to his religion, the French consul drew his sword, -threatening death to Turk or Christian who should crowd upon him. In -a moment quiet was restored and the scene went on. Accident gave the -charm of reality to the occasion. There stood the captain of the guard, -with the smile of scorn upon his attractive though stern features; -around him were his troops, and near them were fanatical Moslems -reviling the spectacle; standing afar off were Christian women, robed -in white sheets, concealing their person except their soft dark eyes, -which peered out above their veils; and surging to and fro, like -mighty waves, was a motley throng eager to behold the drama. Amid the -solemnities human nature was revealed. A magnificent French priest, -who had been appointed to preach at the cross of the unrepentant thief, -so far forgot his duty as to pronounce a glowing eulogium upon France, -and the part she had taken in supporting the Catholic faith in the -East. His commanding eloquence touched alike the pride and vanity of -the French, and the otherwise decorous officers, forgetting the time -and place, applauded the time-serving priest. - -The three sermons at the several crosses ended, the lights burn dimly -again. And now began the descent from the cross, after the style of -Rubens’s great picture. Three venerable monks, impersonating Joseph of -Arimathea, Nicodemus, and St. John the Evangelist, approached the cross -to take the body down. One, climbing up behind the cross, and throwing -a sheet around the body and under the arms of the image, held it fast, -while another tenderly drew out the nails, kissing each one in turn -as he laid them upon a silver plate; then receiving the body into his -arms, with the head resting on his shoulder, wrapped it in fine linen, -placed it upon a bier, and to the chant of another dirge the procession -descended to the pavement of the church, where the image was placed -upon the stone of unction for anointing, and hence borne to the tomb of -Joseph, to await the joyous notes of Easter Sunday. - -Such is a brief description of a scene which annually occurs in -Jerusalem; and though producing a transient impression on the common -mind, darkened by error and deluded by superstition, the sublime -farce is as irreverent as it is offensive to the enlightened Christian. -Debased must be the intellect and vitiated the moral sensibilities of a -people who delight in such mournful tragedies, and corrupt must be the -church which sanctions ceremonies so degrading to earth and repugnant -to heaven. With equal propriety, the murder scene of a beloved friend -might be yearly re-enacted, harrowing the soul with the bloody memories -of the past, and imitating in fiction the ghastly deeds of veritable -murderers. Who could be induced to witness a sight so mournful? The -last request of the Redeemer to his people was to remember his death, -and not to re-enact it; to cherish his memory, and not perpetuate the -triumph of his foes. Devotion attains its greatest purity, and piety -its highest form of spirituality, as pompous ceremonials are displaced -by the simple aspirations of the heart for God, and by the practical -embodiment of faith, hope, and charity. - -For fifteen hundred years the Church of the Holy Sepulchre has been the -shrine of devout worshipers from all lands, and the antiquity of its -traditions, together with the profound reverence in which it is held -by the Christian world, render it an object worthy of consideration. -Whether considered as a work of art, or as a historic site around which -cluster the most sacred legends of the Eastern churches, it awakens a -thrilling interest in the thoughtful and intelligent mind. Such are the -number and complications of the added apartments, a delineation of the -structure is as tedious as it is difficult. Though, as a whole, the -architecture is of the Romanesque order, yet in its different parts it -combines a greater variety of styles than any other edifice of equal -notoriety extant. Standing on the eastern slope of Mount Akra, in -the most populous part of the Holy City, its approaches are from the -east and west through low, narrow doorways leading into a spacious -court ninety feet long and seventy wide, formed laterally by the two -projecting wings of the church, by the façade of the basilica on the -north, and by a stone wall on the south, inclosing the green plateau -once adorned by the palace of the Knights of St. John. A more novel -sight is not to be seen on earth than is daily presented in this stone -court-yard during Passion Week. Lining three of its sides, with now -and then one in the centre, sit the hucksters of pious wares, recalling -the money-changers in the court of Solomon’s Temple. It is the great -religious mart for holy trinkets in Jerusalem, and the most auspicious -place for the ethnologist to study human varieties, for the costumer to -examine diversities of dress, for the traveler to witness the manners -of many nations, and for the artist to sketch the most picturesque of -living scenes. There are Turks, with lofty turbans and flowing robes; -wild Bedouins of the Desert, clad in capotes of camel’s hair, and -girt about the loins with leathern girdles, or attired in their gay, -fantastic riding costume, brandishing the polished spear; Franciscan -friars in coarse brown cowls, and ivory crucifix dangling at their side; -Greek monks in long black flowing garments, high square hats, with -magnificent beards, and hair long as a woman’s, twirling a rosary of -mother-of-pearl or of beautiful agate; French and Italian nuns in black, -with white linen bonnets, and rosary and crucifix falling from their -waist; beggars in rags, the lame with crutches, the blind protected -by a dog, invoking the charities of the rich; and pilgrims from every -nation――Syrians, Turks, Arabs, Nubians, Egyptians, Algerines, Armenians, -Copts, Greeks, Jews, Italians, French, Russians, Germans, English, and -the ubiquitous American. Passing through this motley throng, beggars -implore your charities and the venders of pious wares solicit your -patronage. Here are for sale sandal-wood beads from Mecca, bowls of -bitumen from the shores of the Dead Sea, glass rings and bracelets from -Hebron, olive-wood rosaries from Olivet, crosses of mother-of-pearl -from Bethlehem, and shells on which are rudely carved representations -of the birth and resurrection of Jesus, small tin cans in which water -from the Jordan is carried to the ends of the earth, wax tapers to be -lit at the sacred tomb, and shrouds of cotton cloth or fine linen to -be laid in consecration on the Holy Sepulchre, and then borne to the -uttermost parts of the earth by the faithful, to be wrapped in in death -as a pledge of their resurrection. - - Illustration: CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE――FRONT VIEW. - -Around the court are the ruins of antique and nobler edifices. Along -the southern side are the broken bases of a colonnade once supporting -a cloister or arcade. Running along the western side is an immense -stone structure, from the northern end of which rises the grand -unfinished tower of the Basilica of St. Helen; and on the opposite -end stands a solitary column, crowned with a beautiful Corinthian -capital, supporting the foot of a broken arch. Within this projecting -structure are two Greek chapels, older than the days of the Crusaders; -one dedicated to St. James, the other to the blessed Trinity. On -the opposite side of the court is a plain stone building, the Greek -Monastery of Abraham, through which entrance is had to the Armenian -Church of St. John, to the Coptic Convent, and to the Chapel of -St. Michael. Along the base of the building is a stone bench, where -monks and priests spend their idle hours playing with their rosaries. - -The best view of the face of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is to -be had from this court. It is the chief entrance to the interior, and -consists of the southern end of the transept, presenting to the eye a -grand old façade of Romanesque composition, now dingy with the dust of -ages and the wear of time. It is divided into two stories. In the upper -one are two corresponding windows, arched and slightly pointed, massive -in mouldings and rich in sculpture. In the lower story is a double -portal, surmounted by noble arches, supported by clustered columns, -formed of layers of stone resting on heavy bases, and over the doorway -are richly-sculptured architraves, representing our Lord’s triumphant -entry into Jerusalem. Only the western section of the portal is now -open, the other having been walled up since the reign of the Crusaders. -On the right of the façade are the remains of that grand tower, once -consisting of five stories, only three of which remain. In each of the -three sides of the second story is a massive pointed window, and in -the third, rising proudly above the domes of the church, are plain and -arched windows. Though conjointly owned by the Greeks and Latins, the -Armenians and Copts, the church is now subject to the control of the -Turkish governor of the city, who holds the keys, and levies a heavy -tax upon the rival sects worshiping at its sacred shrines. On the -left in entering this ancient edifice, the traveler’s attention is -attracted by the lordly Turkish guard and his friends, lounging on -softly-cushioned divans, where the hours are idly spent drinking -Mocha coffee and whiffing the best Stamboul from chibouks of elegant -construction. - -Except St. Peter’s in Rome, there is no religious edifice now -standing more imposing than the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Owing -to the addition of chapels and the numerous partitions within for -the accommodation of the several sects, it is not easy to give the -dimensions and form of the interior. It may be said, however, to -consist of a nave 300 feet in length east and west, and of a transept -extending north and south 180 feet. The ceiling is eighty feet high. -Excepting the rotunda, the nave contains the magnificent chapel of the -Greeks, measuring ninety-eight feet in length and forty in width, which -is a church within a church. The walls are of wood, carved and gilded, -reaching to the lofty ceiling above. The entrance is in the western end, -beneath a pointed arch, now filled with a heavy screen, serving as a -massive door. From four large piers within, fifty-two feet high, spring -noble arches, supporting the central dome. In the eastern end is the -gorgeous high altar, the throne of the Greek patriarchs, and on either -side are stalls for the choral singers. Behind the throne, formed by a -wooden screen, is the robing-room for the priests, those ecclesiastical -actors of a corrupted Christianity. Nothing can excel the gorgeous -decorations of the interior, which is adorned according to the barbaric -taste of the Greeks. The sides of their chapel are elaborately carved -and gilded; from column and ceiling depend lamps and chandeliers of -gold, and ostrich eggs curiously ornamented; while on pier and screen -are rude pictures of the Byzantine style. Rising from the marble floor, -in the very centre of the chapel, is a marble column, inclosed with an -iron railing, marking the centre of the earth, and the identical spot -from which was taken the red clay for the formation of Adam’s body. - -At the western end of this chapel is the great rotunda of the church, -measuring ninety-nine feet in diameter, encircled by eighteen colossal -piers, supporting a clere-story pierced with windows, above which -is the majestic dome, a hundred feet from the pavement below, with a -circular opening in the top for light and ventilation, similar to the -aperture in the dome of the Pantheon in Rome. In the very centre of -this rotunda, and directly beneath the dome, is the reputed sepulchre -of our Lord. In form it is not unlike a miniature temple, ten feet -in breadth, twenty in length, and of equal height. The exterior is -ornamented with semi-columns and pilasters, with rich cornices and -mouldings; with a dome resembling an imperial crown, and with a -thousand lamps of gold and silver, interspersed with wax tapers and -vases of flowers. The entrance is on the east, through a small inclosed -area, along which are rows of candles perpetually burning. Over the -portal floats the banner of the Cross, and beneath its silken folds is -a magnificent picture of Christ’s resurrection. It is the most spirited -representation of that grandest of all events ever thrown upon the -canvas. The Redeemer’s form is drawn with all the harmony of parts -and the grace of action of an Apollo Belvidere. With one foot resting -on the tomb, he is leaving the sepulchre with an air of triumph as -majestic as it is natural. - - Illustration: VIEW OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. - -The interior is divided into two small chapels; the first is where -the angel was seen, and contains the throne on which he sat, and in the -second is the Holy Sepulchre. The vault is seven feet long and six wide, -surmounted with a small dome. The tomb occupies the whole length of the -north side of the chamber, incased with marble, and is three feet above -the floor; the upper slab is cracked through the centre, and its edges -are worn smooth by the kisses of pilgrim lips. Forty-two gold lamps -burn continually before the tomb, and from a golden censer clouds of -incense ascend as a memorial offering. Whether accepting or rejecting -its traditional identity with the sepulchre of Joseph of Arimathea, -no one can approach this revered shrine without profound emotions. For -fifteen centuries Christians have guarded it with a solicitude no less -tender than constant. To rescue it from the hands of infidel Moslems, -Peter the Hermit and the Pontiff Urban roused all Europe to war against -the Turk; to restore it to the Church, kings and princes, bishops and -nobles, gave their treasure, and the millions of Christendom flew to -arms to perish in the daring crusade; to it longing eyes in all lands -turn, and he whose lips have pressed its cold marble in devotion is -esteemed a saint with a charmed life. Such is the religious reverence -with which it is held, that none are allowed to approach it till hat -and shoes have been removed, while the more devout drag themselves -along the marble floor and fondly kiss the unconscious stone. Impelled -by a superstitious faith and a tender affection for their offspring, -mothers come from afar to lay their children on the tomb, and many an -invalid is only too happy if he may be laid beside his Master’s -sepulchre. - -On leaving the tomb I fortunately met a young Irish monk whose -acquaintance I had previously formed, and who on this occasion -kindly offered to be my guide in the more thorough exploration of -this renowned church. With singular infatuation for holy places, the -shrine-makers both of the Greek and Latin Churches have identified -within this venerable building the sites of nearly all those solemn -events attending the death and resurrection of our Lord. In the -northern end of the transept is the Latin chapel, which has been in -the possession of the Franciscans since 1257 A.D.; though unpretending -both in its proportions and ornaments, it traditionally marks the spot -where Christ appeared to Mary, and bears the name of the Chapel of the -Apparition. Passing down the dark northern aisle, we lingered for a -moment in the legendary prison of Jesus, at the altar of Longinus, the -repentant soldier who had pierced the Savior’s side, and in the Chapel -of the Division of the Vestments. A few feet beyond, we descended a -flight of twenty-nine steps leading into the crypt or Chapel of St. -Helena, containing the marble chair she occupied while superintending -the search for the Holy Cross. A descent of twelve steps more leads -to the cavern where the mother of Constantine found the three crosses, -with the title Pilate wrote detached. From the sides of the rock drops -of water were dripping down which had percolated the surface above, -but which the young monk assured me were holy tears, the rocks still -weeping for the dead. Ascending to the floor of the church, and -threading the southern aisle, we came to the foot of the traditional -Calvary――a natural rock thirty feet long, fifteen high, and as many -wide, reached by eighteen steps cut in the living rock. The summit is -reached by two flights of steps, one used exclusively by the Greeks and -the other by the Latins, for, like the Jews and Samaritans, the former -have no dealings with the latter. On the summit is the Chapel of the -Elevation of the Cross, measuring forty-five feet in length, the floor -of which is paved with marble, the walls draped with silken velvet, and -from the ceiling gold lamps depend, dimly burning. At the eastern end -is a raised platform ten feet long, two high, and six wide, supporting -an altar; and directly before it is a hole in the rock, two feet -deep by one and a half square, in which once rested the foot of the -Redeemer’s cross. On either side is a similar hole for the crosses of -the two thieves, and near them is the rent in the rock caused by the -earthquake at the moment the Lord expired. Reverently regarding it as -real, the Christians of the East approach this shrine upon their knees, -fondly kissing what they believe to be the summit of Golgotha. Covered -as it is with a marble floor, it is impossible to determine whether the -elevation is masonry or living rock; if the latter, it is remarkable -that such a rocky eminence should be left in this portion of the city; -and if a natural rock, its sides and top should be exposed to view. -Descending the Greek staircase and turning to the right, we came to a -gloomy vault called the Tomb of Adam, near where once stood the tombs -of the chivalrous Godfrey and the heroic Baldwin. Returning to the -transept, we passed a yellow marble slab, inclosed with a low railing -which pilgrims fondly kiss, and over which lamps burn continually. -It is the legendary Stone of Unction, on which the body of Jesus was -anointed for his burial. Passing through the rotunda, we descended -into the tombs of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea, together with two -others, excavated in the living rock, and which, if ancient, are the -most remarkable antiquities within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. -Returning again to the rotunda, my good Franciscan gave me his -benediction, and, parting from me, left me to the reflections of the -hour. - -Whether this church covers the Golgotha of the crucifixion and the -place of our Lord’s sepulture remains an open question. No subject -within the range of sacred archæology presents greater difficulties, -and none has been contested with a more brilliant display of acute -argumentation and varied learning. Pre-eminently it is a question of -two sides, and the contest is sometimes so evenly balanced that an -assumed victory by the advocates of either theory is one of doubtful -certainty. To argue against the supposition, one is forced to reason -against his inclination to stand on the site of the Redeemer’s death -and sit within the shadow of his tomb; to reject it is to leave the -world without a substitute, and consign the remembrance of those grand -events which it commemorates to the memory of man, without a knowledge -of the scene of their occurrence; to deny the identity of the spot is -to call in question the traditions of fifteen centuries, to which the -Christians of Europe and of the East have fondly clung, and for which -the brave have died; to accept it is to argue against the unbroken -silence of three hundred years――against equivocal history――against -topography――against analogy――against eminent scholarship――against the -Bible. The argument for it is tradition and history; the proof against -it is the Bible and topography. - -Traditionally considered, the argument in its favor runs thus: Such was -the popularity of Jesus, and such the publicity of his death, burial, -and resurrection, as to stamp the place of their occurrence with -imperishable memory; that the descent of the Holy Ghost, the conversion -of three thousand, the early founding of his Church in the city of his -rejection, and the maintenance of its unity for thirty-seven years, -combined to cherish in the public mind the recollection of the place; -that though, just previous to the siege of the Holy City by Titus, -his followers fled to Pella, beyond the Jordan, it was but a temporary -departure, and that, after the storm of war had spent its fury, they -returned to the city of their choice; that the desolation of seventy -years which followed the conquest of the Romans was partial, and that, -while the more wealthy of the population were sold into captivity, many -of the common people retained their humbler homes; that, from the year -130 A.D. to the present time, Jerusalem has been an inhabited city, and -that the Emperor Hadrian rebuilt the city, and, to dishonor alike the -Jew and Christian, he reared a fane in honor of Jupiter on the site of -Solomon’s Temple, and covered the tomb of Jesus with a temple to Venus; -and that this temple to Venus remained standing for two hundred years -after its erection, and was seen by Eusebius in the year 326 A.D. - - Illustration: GROUND PLAN OF THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. - -Such is the evidence for the identity of the Holy Sepulchre as the tomb -of Jesus, from his resurrection down to the commencement of authentic -history. It is unwritten tradition, and, at best, presumptive proof. -Extending through a period of three hundred years of wars, revolutions, -and desolations, it is the most unreliable period of all the centuries -subsequent to the Christian era. Whatever may have been the temporary -interest attached to Golgotha and to the tomb of Joseph to the idle -and curious, to the friend and foe of Jesus, it is evident, from -their inspired narrative, that the sacred writers neither shared -the excitement, nor considered it incumbent on them to describe with -minuteness the scene of their Master’s death and burial. They were too -much absorbed in recording the stupendous facts of our Lord’s expiatory -sufferings, and the glory of his resurrection, to entertain their -readers with an accurate account of the rock on which he expired, and -of the sepulchre from which he arose triumphant. The place is forgotten -in the significance of the event; the actor, and not the stage, is the -burden of their history. Their simple story is, They led him away to -crucify him;[229] When they came to the place which is called Calvary, -there they crucified him;[230] The place where Jesus was crucified was -nigh to the city;[231] Now in the place where he was crucified there -was a garden, and in the garden a new sepulchre, wherein was never man -yet laid.[232] This is the sum of their record. They must have been -familiar both with the place of execution and of interment, but, from -Matthew to Revelation, the apostles are silent to indifference as -to the one and the other. Had they deemed it important, they might -have intimated out of which gate the mournful procession passed, and -on which side of the city the Son of God was slain; but, regarding -such information as unworthy their sublime narrative, or fearing -our idolatry, they leave us to the uncertainty of conjecture. The -invitation of the angels to the devoted Marys, Come, see the place -where the Lord lay, was not to enshrine the tomb, but to unshrine it, -by convincing them by their own sight that he is not here, for he is -risen, as he said; and, dear as the spot might be, they were not to -linger, but to go quickly, and tell his disciples that he is risen from -the dead.[233] We never read of their return to that tomb. Convinced -of his resurrection, they sought him among the living and not among the -dead. From the summit of Olivet they watched his ascending form, till -a cloud received him out of their sight, and then returned with great -joy, not to the tomb, but to an “upper room,” waiting the “promise -of the Father.”[234] In his wondrous sermon on the day of Pentecost, -St. Peter declared the resurrection of Christ, but made no allusion to -his tomb, while he reminded his hearers that David’s sepulchre is with -us unto this day.[235] In all the subsequent apostolic letters, neither -the zealous Peter, nor the beloved John, nor St. Paul, that devoted -worshiper of our Lord, ever alluded to those memorable places. - -History is comparatively silent as to the return of the Christians -from Pella. Many of the first followers of Christ were strangers in -Jerusalem, who had come to the Holy City from distant countries to -celebrate the annual festivals of their nation. Such must have been -most of the three thousand converted on the day of Pentecost, who, -returning to their far-off homes, spread the glad tidings of a risen -Savior as they went.[236] And although all who “believed were together -and had all things common, and sold their possessions and goods, and -parted them to all men as every man had need, and continued daily with -one accord in the Temple, and breaking bread from house to house,”[237] -yet in a brief time thereafter St. Stephen was martyred, “and at that -time there was a great persecution against the church which was in -Jerusalem, and they were all scattered abroad throughout the regions -of Judea and Samaria, except the apostles.”[238] The number who fled -to Pella, which was but a small town on the eastern bank of the Jordan, -must have been exceedingly small. Those who found refuge there remained -for seventy years, during which time Jerusalem was a desolation; and, -excepting the military towers on Mount Zion, “the rest of the wall was -so entirely thrown down even with the ground by those who digged it up -to the very foundation, that there was left nothing to make those who -came thither believe it had ever been inhabited.”[239] By some this -account is regarded as exaggerated, and at most it can only refer to -the walls of the city. Granting the correctness of such a supposition, -and that some of the poorer inhabitants clung to the ruins of the -capital, yet historians agree that the Christians did not return to -Jerusalem till about the year 130 A.D., which was after the town had -been rebuilt by the Emperor Adrian, and by him called _Ælia Capitolina_. -And, at best, only the descendants of those who had fled returned, as -during the lapse of seventy years most of the fugitives had ascended to -their reward. It is also difficult to conceive how those who had never -visited Jerusalem before, and especially after it had been rebuilt by -the Romans, could have identified an obscure tomb which had remained -unmarked by any enduring monument. - -The historic accounts which have come down to us that Adrian -desecrated the tomb of Jesus by erecting over it an idol monument, are -as contradictory as they are inconsistent. As the emperor was the enemy -of the Jew rather than of the Christian, it is impossible to conceive -what motive impelled him to dishonor an humble shrine held sacred by a -handful of harmless religionists. The erection of a proud fane on the -site of Solomon’s Temple is in keeping with the character of the man -and his hatred for the Jews, but the desecration of Golgotha and of -the Holy Sepulchre is inconsistent with his reign in the East, and with -the admission of the Christians to his new colony and city. But the -early Church historians are not agreed as to the name and character of -this idol monument. Writing after the death of Constantine, Eusebius -speaks of a temple to Venus covering the Holy Sepulchre, ascribing -its erection to impious men; writing sixty years later than Eusebius, -Jerome ascribes it to the Emperor Adrian. Eusebius declares it was -a temple, Jerome affirms it was a statue; Eusebius asserts it was in -honor of Venus, Jerome informs us it was dedicated to Jupiter. - -There are similar discrepancies in the writings of these fathers as to -the discovery of the Holy Sepulchre, and as to the founder of the first -Christian church reared in honor of our Lord’s resurrection. According -to Eusebius, “impious men, or rather the whole race of demons through -the agency of impious men, had labored to deliver over that illustrious -monument of immortality to darkness and oblivion. They had covered the -cave (or tomb) with earth brought from other quarters, and then erected -over it a sanctuary to Venus, in which to celebrate the impure rites -and worship of that goddess. Moved by a divine intimation made by -the Spirit of the Savior himself, the Emperor Constantine ordered -the obstructions removed, the holy tomb purified, and a magnificent -church to be erected in commemoration of the event.” In this miraculous -interposition to discover the veritable tomb of Christ, Eusebius -concedes that there was no existing tradition identifying its locality. -Either the place of our Lord’s burial was known to Eusebius, or it was -not. If it was certainly known to him by a pagan temple standing on -the spot, no miracle was necessary for its recognition; if it was not -known to him, then there was no unbroken tradition extending through a -period of three centuries, and the question turns upon the credibility -of the pretended miracle. The “Father of History” can only be saved -from palpable contradiction by supposing that after the tomb had been -supernaturally discovered he found over it a pagan temple. But what -proof have we that such a miracle was wrought? What good to mankind -has resulted from such an interposition? In all Bible miracles, the -great moral purposes to be attained justified the departure from -the established course of nature. The history of this church, from -Constantine to our own times, has been a series of religious rivalries, -of bitter contentions between opposing sects, of wars between -Christians and Turks, of weary and inefficacious pilgrimages from the -snows of Russia and the sands of Africa, of useless expenditures of -treasure, of relic worship, and of the utter absence of moral influence -on Moslem and Jew. - -Such a miraculous intimation given to the apostles would have been -more appropriate than to a warrior whose piety is as questionable as -the results of his conversion have proved disastrous to mankind. To -an enlightened Christian mind it would afford a melancholy pleasure to -stand on Calvary and sit in the Savior’s tomb, but the temptation to -idolatry would be too strong for the common mind to brook. Duped by a -mercenary priesthood for fifteen centuries, millions of Greek and Latin -pilgrims have bowed in idolatrous veneration before the reputed tomb of -Jesus; and for a boon so humble, immense donations have been demanded -for the support of ecclesiastical establishments. The genuineness -of this divine intimation is affected by the character of the age of -Constantine. It was the age of pious frauds. Monkery had existed for -two centuries; heresies had taken deep root; saints were worshiped, -martyrs canonized, relics adored; and, sanctioned by imperial example, -the people were ripe for any deception. Either the theory of an -unbroken tradition coming down from the apostolic age to the time of -Eusebius, and the existence of a pagan temple upon the well-known tomb -must be abandoned, or the pretended miracle for its recognition must be -relinquished, as the one supersedes the necessity of the other. Both -can not co-exist; one or the other is without foundation in truth. - -Jerome and his contemporaries, together with his successors, give a -different version of the identification of the Holy Sepulchre and of -the founder of the first church over the consecrated spot; and, what -must appear as a little remarkable to every intelligent mind, these -later historians, who wrote in succeeding centuries, are far more full -and minute in their details than Eusebius, who was an eyewitness of -what he wrote. According to them, the Empress Helena, the mother of -Constantine, moved by a pious desire to worship at those shrines sacred -to the memory of our Lord, visited Palestine in the year 326 A.D., at -the advanced age of eighty. Having identified the sites of the principal -events connected with our Lord’s history, she determined to rescue them -from oblivion by the erection of enduring monuments, no less expressive -of her own gratitude than for the guidance of those devout pilgrims -whose devotions might lead them in future years to the Holy Land. -Discovering to her satisfaction the stable and manger of the nativity -at Bethlehem, and the exact spot of the ascension on Olivet, she -ordered the erection of monumental structures on the site of such -extraordinary events, at once worthy the Redeemer’s glory and the -magnificent reign of her imperial son. Naturally desiring to supply the -intermediate link, and perpetuate the memory of the Savior’s death and -resurrection, she earnestly sought for Calvary and the reputed tomb of -Joseph. Whether the recollection of these most sacred places had been -lost, or whether to confirm her faith in the traditional sites, she -diligently inquired of the oldest Jewish and Christian inhabitants of -the city as to their location, who pointed her to the area at present -inclosed within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. But the accumulation -of rubbish during the lapse of so many years rendered the search -difficult and uncertain. Intent, however, on the consummation of an -object so laudable, and guided by a divine intimation, she at length -came to the sepulchre of Jesus, and near it discovered the three -crosses, with Pilate’s tablet, still bearing his superscription. The -joy experienced by the unexpected discovery of the crosses was lessened -by the tablet being detached from its original cross, precluding the -possibility of determining to which of the three it had belonged. -Ever fruitful in expedients, Macarius, then Bishop of Jerusalem, -suggested the happy thought that the three crosses should be presented -in succession to the person of a noble lady at that moment afflicted -with an incurable disease, and the one which should impart healing -virtue should be regarded as the cross on which the Lord of life and -glory suffered. Singly each cross was presented, the first and second, -however, without effect, but on the touch of the third she immediately -recovered. Content with the accomplishment of a work so grand, and -sincerely grateful for the honor Heaven had conferred upon her, she -ordered the erection of a magnificent basilica over the Redeemer’s tomb, -and, full of holy joy, the venerable Helena returned to Constantinople, -where she expired in her eighty-second year. Nine years subsequent -to her visit, and seven years after her demise, the Church of the -Holy Sepulchre was completed, and with unrivaled pomp dedicated to -Jesus in the year 335 A.D. With these additional facts and palpable -discrepancies, it is impossible to determine to which belongs the honor -of the work――to the Emperor of the West or to his imperial mother. -In both accounts there is the incompatible mingling of tradition and -miracle, mutually destroying the force of each other. An intelligent -Christian, visiting Jerusalem for the first time, and remembering his -Lord expired and was interred “nigh unto the city,” would not be a -little surprised to find Golgotha and the tomb of Joseph in the heart -of the modern town. At the time of those great events the city was -encompassed on the north with two walls. The first, beginning at the -Tower of Hippicus on Mount Zion, ran along its northern brow, and, -crossing the Tyropean Valley, terminated at the western wall of the -Temple inclosure, a distance of 630 yards. As the third wall was not -built till after the Crucifixion, a description of it is not material -to the argument; but on the direction of the second wall hangs the -decision of this long-contested question. According to Josephus, the -second wall commenced at the Gennath Gate, which signifies “garden,” -and was used as a means of ingress either to a royal garden on Mount -Zion, or of egress to the gardens in the Valley of Hinnom. In either -case the gate would have been located near the western wall of the city, -at which point the second wall commenced, and, running northward over -the level portion of Mount Akra to the Damascus Gate, and thence coming -down over Mount Bezetha, terminated at the northwest corner of the -Tower of Antonia, including in its course the traditional Golgotha. -To the most unpracticed eye such a line of wall would be in harmony -with good sense, with correct civil engineering, and with the approved -principles of military defensive works. To locate the Gennath Gate -at the north base of Mount Zion, and run the second wall along Bazar -Street up to the Damascus Gate and thence back to the Tower of Antonia, -would certainly exclude the present site of the Holy Sepulchre, but -would also exclude the large Pool of Hezekiah, give but a narrow space -to the “Lower City” of ancient Jerusalem, and leave the whole of Mount -Akra uninclosed. Such a line of wall would have left a large part, -and the weakest portion, of the northern wall of Zion unprotected, and -skirting, as it must have done, the steep sides of Akra, been entirely -unavailing as a defensive structure. No sane engineer would have -constructed a wall so as to expose to the use of an attacking enemy the -large fountain of Hezekiah; and, if the second wall did not run north -and south, it is impossible to understand Josephus, who informs us that, -in his assault upon this part of the city, Titus stationed troops in -towers along the southern part, and dispatched others to throw down the -northern portion. - -The remains at the Damascus Gate of an ancient gateway with towers, -the masonry of which is of equal antiquity with that in the northeast -corner of the Temple area, are no doubt the ruins of the northern gate -of the second wall; and the traces of an ancient wall between the old -gateway and the Latin convent clearly indicate that the second wall -inclosed Mount Akra on the west, and therefore included the Calvary -and Holy Sepulchre of the monks. - -Though the legendary claims of this renowned church are rejected, -and its pretended rights to the affections of mankind denied, yet the -antiquity of its origin and the romance of its history can not fail -to awaken a momentary veneration in the most indifferent spectator. -Dedicated to Jesus in the year 335 A.D., it remained standing in all -its primal grandeur for two hundred and seventy-nine years, when, in -614 A.D., it was ruthlessly destroyed by the Persian, Chosroes II., -who, after the capture of the city, massacred thousands of the citizens, -including many monks and nuns, and, as the crowning act of his -vengeance, carried the Patriarch of Jerusalem, together with the “true -cross,” into captivity. Sixteen years later the church was rebuilt, -under the superintendence of Modestus, superior of the convent of -Theodosius, and the exiled patriarch returned, entering the city -in triumph with the “cross” on his shoulder. Destined to the most -remarkable vicissitudes, it was again destroyed in 969 A.D. by the -Fatimites, who, in the madness of their retaliation, committed the aged -patriarch to the flames of the burning building. Remaining a heap of -ruins for more than forty years, the revengeful Khalif el-Hâkim, the -spiritual and fanatical Prince of the Druses, caused it to be entirely -demolished, plowing up its very foundations, and attempting the utter -destruction of the tomb itself. With an energy as untiring as their -gifts were munificent, the Christians rebuilt their favorite sanctuary -within thirty-eight years after their cruel persecution by El-Hâkim, -and it remained standing till 1099 A.D., when the Crusaders captured -Jerusalem; the church was enlarged and beautified by them; and during -the lapse of more than seven centuries it continued unimpaired till -the year 1808 A.D., when, on the night of the 12th of October, a fire, -originating in the Armenian chapel, consumed the noble pile. So intense -was the heat that the massive walls suffered immensely; the cupola -was rent in two; the roof of the nave and of the triforium gallery, -together with all the altars, images, and pictures, were consumed; the -marble piers in the rotunda were calcined, and the lofty dome above -fell in with a tremendous crash upon the Holy Sepulchre. Inheriting -the zeal and benevolence of an earlier age, the Christians of our -own century determined to reconstruct their holiest of shrines, -and selecting Commones, a Greek of the island of Mitylene, for the -architect, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was rebuilt in the year -1810 A.D., and remains standing to this day, the pride of the East and -the most imposing of Christian monuments.[240] - - - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Forty Days and forty Nights in the Holy City. ―― Inside View - of Jerusalem. ―― Streets. ―― Buildings. ―― Commerce. ―― A - Cosmopolitan City. ―― Government Officials. ―― Taxation. - ―― Population. ―― Turks. ―― Dervishes. ―― Fast of Ramadan. - ―― Feast of Beiram. ―― Moslem Sects. ―― Their Creeds. - ―― Quarter of the Jews. ―― Their wretched Condition. ―― - Their Nationalities. ―― Pensioners. ―― Jewish Passover. ―― - Ceremonies witnessed. ―― Jewish Sabbath in Jerusalem. ―― - Synagogue. ―― Education. ―― Mr. Touro and Sir Moses Montefiore. - ―― Religious and Industrial Institutions. ―― Christian Sects - in the Holy City. ―― Armenians. ―― Their Wealth. ―― Greeks. - ―― Their Influence. ―― Latins. ―― Their Edifices. ―― Monastic - Quarrels. ―― Curious Scene. ―― Rivalry between France and - Russia. ―― Russian Gold. ―― Protestant Christianity in - Jerusalem. ―― English Church. ―― House of Charity. ―― The - two Slave Girls. - - -FORTY days and forty nights in the Holy City gave me ample time to -thread its streets, examine its architecture, study its politics, -consider its religion, and form an opinion of the social customs of -its citizens. The attritions of time and the physical changes incident -to war have marred the beauty of this once imperial city, and the -Jerusalem of to-day holds no comparison in wealth and elegance with -the Jerusalem of Solomon or of Herod the Great. Less than twelve feet -wide, the streets are paved with small flag-stones, and, being without -side-walks, are the thoroughfares for man and beast. Excepting the -mosques and churches, the buildings are constructed in accordance with -cheapness and convenience rather than in harmony with a costly and -elegant architecture. They range in size from a one-story bazar-shop to -a three-story dwelling. Wood being scarce and expensive, they are built -of the common gray limestone of Palestine; the windows are small and -barred with iron; in the centre of the edifice is an open court; and -the flat roof of each is adorned with a small dome, adding not a little -to the general appearance of the structure and to the comfort of the -inmates. The arrangement of the interior depends upon the nationality, -taste, and wealth of the occupant. Usually the furniture is of the -simplest kind, consisting of low stools for tables, on which the food -is placed, and a series of divans encircling the room, which are used -for seats in the daytime and for beds at night. The floor, walls, and -ceiling are of stone, and are whitewashed as a substitute for carpets, -paint, and paper. The bazars are in the most frequented streets, and -are in either a small building or on the ground floor of a dwelling. -The articles for sale are displayed on a shelf in front of the shop, -or around the casement of the door. In addition to the more common -necessaries of life, the principal commodities of traffic are the -several kinds of Persian and Turkish tobacco, the fruits of the country, -some rude silk and cotton fabrics manufactured in the city, together -with beads, trinkets, and jewelry, of which the ladies are very fond. -The commerce of the modern town is not equal to that of the ancient -capital, when the merchants were princes, and when the caravans of the -East brought to her gates the fine linen of Egypt, the steeds of Arabia, -the carpets of Persia, the shawls of Cashmere, and the marvels of -Bagdad. - - Illustration: VIEW OF MODERN JERUSALEM FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. - -Jerusalem is a cosmopolitan city, where the representatives from all -nations congregate and live. Amounting to 20,000 souls, the present -population is divided into classes according to their religious -opinions, and each sect occupies a separate portion of the town called -“Quarters.” The Turk is now in power, swaying his iron sceptre, which -he has held for more than six hundred years. The city having been -elevated to the dignity of a distinct pashalic, the Pasha is appointed -by the Sultan, and comes from Constantinople. The municipal government -is civil and military. The civil governor is assisted by a delegated -council of Moslems, of which one Jew and one Christian are members by -sufferance, to represent the interests of their respective churches. -Criminal and civil justice is administered by a city judge, called the -“Cadi,” who is judge and jury, and whose decisions are law, whether -the dictates of an impartial judgment or the sentence of a bribed -magistrate. The military department is under Bim-Pasha, the most -dreaded of all the government officials. His troops perform the double -duty of garrison and police, guarding the gates during the day and -patroling the streets at night. Destitute of courtesy and the finer -feelings of our humanity, they are the most brutal class of men on the -globe, who are respected because they are dreaded, and feared because -they are vindictive. The palaces of the civil and military governors of -the city are in the northwest corner of the Haram; the common council -holds its sessions in what was once the hall of the Jewish Sanhedrim, -and the soldiers have their barracks in the Hippic Tower and in the -Tower of Antonia, where is still the city prison. - -The government is supported by taxation, which is as heavy as the -military collectors are exacting. Every expedient is resorted to to -avoid the payment of a tax which is imposed with rapacity and gathered -with rigor. Under the pretense of poverty, rich Jews live in filth and -go through the streets in rags; and to escape the system of espionage -which the grasping Turk has established, both Arabs and Christians -secrete their treasures in fields and cellars. - -The Moslem population is estimated at 7556 souls, and their “Quarter” -extends from the southwest corner of the Haram to the central bazar, -thence up to the Damascus Gate, including a portion of Mount Akra, the -whole of Mount Bezetha, as far down as the northern wall of the Temple -inclosure. Mount Moriah is exclusively their own; and, besides the -famous mosques of Omar and El-Aksa, they have several others within -the limits of their districts. Five times a day from their graceful -minarets the muezzins call the faithful to prayers. - -Many of the Turks, especially those of foreign birth, are men of noble -bearing, and in their way are polite; but the Arab Moslems are the most -despicable of beings, guilty of all the crimes forbidden in the Five -Books of Moses. Among the most idle, reveling, and villainous class of -men in the city are the Dervishes, the embodiment of fanaticism and the -cause of nearly all the religious troubles which occur within the town. -In their devotions they are the Pharisees of modern times. Whether at -the corner of the streets, or in the crowded bazar, or on the house-top, -wherever the hour of prayer overtakes them, they count their rosaries, -perform their genuflexions, and recite their Koran prayers. During -our stay in Jerusalem the Mohammedan fast called “Ramadan” occurred, -lasting from moon till moon. At four o’clock P.M. on the eleventh of -March the commencement of the fast was announced by a cannon from the -Tower of Hippicus. All that night long the balconies of the several -minarets were brilliantly illuminated, and amid the glory of a thousand -lamps the sonorous voice of the muezzin was heard chanting, “God is -great; Mohammed is his prophet; rise up and offer prayer; prayer is -better than sleep.” Throughout that month no faithful follower of the -Prophet ate from sunrise till sunset, but the booming of the evening -gun was the signal for a night of rioting and feasting. On the evening -of the 7th of April seven guns from Hippicus announced the joyful -intelligence that the “Fast of Ramadan” had ended, which was received -with shouts that awakened the solemn echoes of Olivet, and was -immediately succeeded by the “Feast of Beiram,” at which gluttony is -the prevailing sin. - -Like other religious bodies, the Mohammedans are divided into sects, -which have originated in the different interpretations of the Koran -by certain doctors whose names they bear. Deriving their faith from -four principal sources――the Koran, the traditions of the Prophet, -the Concordance of his primitive disciples, and from analogy, they -hold to two cardinal truths: “There is no God but God, and Mohammed -is his prophet.” Believing their religious system, like the Mosaic -dispensation, to be a part of the scheme of the Gospel, and not -an antagonism to it, they regard their sacred writings to be the -restoration of the Pentateuch, the Psalms of David, and the Four -Gospels to their original purity. Revering Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, -and Jesus as great prophets, to each of whom was delivered a portion -of a grand system of laws and morals, they believe each succeeding -revelation superseded the preceding one, and that the honor of -receiving the last and grandest of all the Divine communications of God -to man was reserved for Mohammed, whose name the pious Moslem always -associates with that of Jehovah. They also hold to the existence of -good and bad angels, to the immortality of the soul, the resurrection -of the dead, a general judgment, and to heaven and hell. They believe -in the miraculous birth of Christ; that he was the Messiah and the Word -of God; that, after he had accomplished his mission on earth, he was -received up into heaven without suffering the pain of death――another -person on whom God had stamped the likeness of Jesus was crucified in -his stead; and, finally, that Christ is to come again to establish -the _Mohammedan religion_ in the earth, and his advent will be the -pre-intimation of the world’s destruction and the consummation of -time.[241] - -Oppressed by their haughty masters, the Jews of Jerusalem reside in -the empire city of their ancestors in the most abject poverty, despised -by the Turk and lamented by the Christian. Numbering more than 7700 -souls, their wretched homes cling to the eastern declivities of Zion, -extending down into the Tyropean Valley. Here, where in happier days -each man was a prince and each home a palace, they dwell as pensioners -upon the charities of their brethren abroad. As in London and Paris, -Rotterdam and Rome, Constantinople and Cairo, the Jewish Quarter is -remarkable only for squalidity, and the redolence of old clothes and -second-handed wares in general. Induced by patriotism, by devotion, -by charity, most of the Jewish population are foreign born, and have -sought a home and a tomb in the city of their fathers. - -As in the days of Christ, the Jews are divided into rival sects――the -Sephardim and the Askenazim. The former are of Spanish origin, and -are the descendants of those whom Ferdinand and Isabella banished in -1497 A.D., presenting the rare instance of persons having been exiled -to their native land. Their language is a mixture of Spanish and Arabic; -and, though subjects of the Sultan, they are suffered to maintain a -distinct community, governed by their Rabbinical laws. Numbering about -four thousand, they have four synagogues, and are subject to a council -of seven rabbis, and a high-priest called “the Head in Zion.” Their -poverty is the most abject, their filth the most indescribable, their -wretchedness the most complete imaginable. Their brethren of the -Askenazim order are principally of German and Polish extraction, and -number in all less than four thousand souls. Having been readmitted to -Palestine in the beginning of the present century, they remain subject -to the consuls of their respective countries. Being mostly paupers, -they are allowed six dollars per annum for support, which is the -amount _per capita_ drawn from the contributions remitted to them -from the rich Jews in other lands. Hoping to enlighten their minds and -preserve a knowledge of their religion, thirty-six reading-rooms have -been opened for their instruction, in which teachers are employed to -instruct them in the Talmud and other religious works. With becoming -regularity they keep the feast of the Passover, observe their Sabbath, -and assemble on Friday in their “place of reading” to recite the -lamentations of their prophets. - -On the Monday night succeeding Palm Sunday was celebrated the Jewish -Passover, which I was invited to witness by a Christian merchant of -Jerusalem, whose reputation among the Jews made him a welcome guest. -The paschal moon shone softly as we threaded the narrow streets winding -up the steep acclivities of Zion. Calling first on a family of moderate -circumstances, we found them already seated around the table, engaged -in the preliminary devotions of the feast. Since the loss of their -nationality the Jews celebrate this festival at their homes, and in -an unpretending manner observe as far as possible the requisitions -of their law. In obedience to the command, all the members of the -household were present, including parents, sons and daughters, and -daughters-in-law. The dwelling had been carefully cleansed of old -leaven by the father of the family; and, that his search into every -nook and cranny might not seem fruitless, the busy housewife had -purposely placed bits of old bread in such parts of the building where -they would certainly meet his eye, and which he destroyed with much ado. -The apartment in which the family were enjoying their annual feast was -a large square room with vaulted ceiling. The table had been prepared -with great neatness and care. On each plate was a bit of lamb, a piece -of unleavened bread, a few bitter herbs, and for each person there was -a glass of wine. Three lamps were burning on the table, and as many -were suspended from the ceiling directly above――symbols of the Trinity. -Observing a vacant chair and a well-filled plate, with a goblet of wine -before it, I was informed the vacant place was for the Prophet Elias, -whom they expected would come, and for whom they wished to be prepared -at any moment. To represent the hasty departure of their fathers from -Egypt, and in obedience to the paschal law, each person was attired as -for a journey: “With your loins girded, your shoes on your feet, and -your staff in your hand; ye shall eat it in haste: it is the Lord’s -passover.” To illustrate how their ancestors had spoiled the Egyptians -in borrowing “jewels of silver and jewels of gold, and raiment,” they -had attired themselves in their best apparel, adorned their persons -with their most costly ornaments, and decorated the table with whatever -silver and gold ware they possessed. The father, who was a man in the -prime of life, sat at the head of the table, the mother, a neat-looking -woman, sat at the opposite end, the three daughters were arranged on -one side, and the two sons on the other. In a chanting tone the eldest -son read from the book of Exodus the story and deliverance of the -Israelites, while the whole family recited portions of their history -in concert. Alternately they were jubilant and indignant: when Moses -triumphed they shouted; when Pharaoh was cruel they cursed him, and in -their rage they dipped their finger in the wine, and, allowing it to -drop upon the floor, they enumerated therewith the plagues of Egypt, -declaring Pharaoh should not have a drop of wine to cool his parched -tongue. The Scripture recitation over, they began to eat, exclaiming, -as they tasted the herb, “Bitter, bitter!”[242] - -Ascending a pair of winding stairs, we entered another apartment, -where, beside a Jewess and a little girl, three venerable Jews were -partaking of their annual feast with much good cheer. The story of the -ancestral sufferings had been recited, and they were engaged in common -table-talk. The lady of the house was affable, and her little daughter -so clean and pretty as to excite affection and merit a present. -Contrary to expectation as well as to the law, they offered us a piece -of unleavened bread――which was made of flour and water, and baked in -the form of a thin cake――and a bit of herb, not unlike American lettuce, -and exceedingly bitter to the taste. The three old Jews were advanced -in years beyond the allotted time of human life, and their white hair, -with their long flowing beards, gave them a patriarchal appearance. -They conversed freely as to their national and religious condition, -regarding themselves under the Turks as degraded and oppressed as their -fathers were under the oppressive domination of Pharaoh. Yet they were -not without hope; “Elias would soon come; the proud Moslem would be -overthrown, their land delivered, and their ancient capital restored to -all its primal glory.” - -Again winding through the lane-like streets, into which the pale -moonlight came struggling through the broken arcade that spanned the -thoroughfare, we reached the residence of a rich Jewish banker, and -rapped at the court-yard gate, but received the scriptural reply, -“I know you not.” From the street we could see the brilliantly-lighted -room where the paschal feast was held――the elegantly-robed Jewesses, -as they passed by the window――and heard the voices of joy and devotion -within. The lateness of the hour, and the banker’s fear lest the -display of his plate and jewels might expose him to the rapacity of -the Turk, were the probable causes of his refusal to admit us. Standing -without in the chilly air of night, the time and scene recalled the -Savior’s parable of the Strait Gate: “When once the master of the house -is risen up, and hath shut-to the door, and ye begin to stand without, -and to knock at the door, saying, Lord, Lord, open unto us; and he -shall answer and say unto you, I know you not whence ye are.”[243] - -Retracing our steps, we followed a narrow alley, on whose rough -pavement our lantern threw a flickering light, and came to a dwelling -occupied by two families. In a small room there lived a poor but -industrious Jew and his wife, whose inability to keep the Passover -alone induced him to invite to his abode a widow and her two daughters. -Expressing surprise at her absence from home on that important festival -night, the kind-hearted Jew reminded me of the provision of the paschal -law that, “if the household be too little for the lamb, let him and -his neighbor next unto his house take it according to the number of -the souls.”[244] In the adjoining room lived the banker’s clerk, who -explained why his master did not receive us. Unwilling to allow a -stranger to see the immense amount of gold and silver in his possession, -his cautiousness was the reason assigned for the seeming discourtesy, -as his external poverty must be the safeguard of his valuable -possessions. Restrained by no such fears, the clerk received us with -great cordiality. His sons and daughters, and all his grandchildren, -had gathered beneath the parental roof, and, forgetting Israel’s -ancient sorrows and present misfortunes, they gave themselves up to the -freedom and unbounded joy of home. They laughed and talked, sang and -shouted, ate and drank, as their emotions rose or appetite demanded. - -The day succeeding Good Friday was the Jewish Sabbath, and was a -“high day” with the Hebrews. Hastening to their large plain synagogue, -I found them already thronging their altars. _En route_ I met the -high-priest, accompanied by his two sons, successors to his priestly -office. His bearing was noble, his face calm and intelligent; and -his lofty checkered turban and flowing robes of yellow Syrian cloth -imparted to him an air of dignity and rendered him an object of -attraction. Whatever may be their reputed poverty, those who crowded -the synagogue were well attired. Behind a lattice-work the Jewesses -were engaged in their devotions, while the men occupied the centre -of the edifice. Most of the latter were aged, and wore an intelligent -countenance; but there was one whose fiendish aspect and quarrelsome -manner recalled the rabble whose cry against the Innocent was, “Crucify -him! crucify him!” Nature had qualified him for an executioner, and -his depravity had fitted him for the worst of deeds. He was a short, -thick-set, powerful man, his face round and compact, his nose broad and -flat, his mouth large and compressed, his eyes black, and burning with -rage. Displeased at every person in his presence, he cursed each who -passed him, and was the terror of the old men, who dreaded his fury. -His ugly face haunts my memory still. He was possessed. He represents -the murderers of our Lord. At the door stood two venerable Jews, one -holding a lemon and the other a herb, and, as the people came out, they -kissed the one and smelled the other. - -With a view to dispel the ignorance which, like the pall of death, -enshrouds the Jewish mind, generous efforts have been made within -the last quarter of a century to ameliorate the condition of those -whose temporary or permanent abode is in Jerusalem. By a munificent -donation from Mr. Touro, of New Orleans, a new Jewish hospital has -been erected just beyond the Yâffa Gate, on the right of the road -leading to Bethlehem. Constructed of stone, with a handsome exterior, -and containing forty beds, it is governed by a manager, a steward and -stewardess. Attached to it is a farm and a fruit nursery, which in -coming years will be of great value to the institution. It is the most -home-like looking building either in the city or in its environs, and -the inmates who lounge beneath its spacious portico are immeasurably -happier than those who reside in stone hovels within the town. Though -it is the gift of an American citizen, Sir Moses Montefiore bears -the honor of being the founder of the hospital. Acting simply as -disbursing agent or trustee for the fund, Sir Moses should have had -the magnanimity to disabuse the public mind, and render honor to the -distinguished benefactor. - -Within Jerusalem there are several institutions for the religious -benefit of this fallen people. The School of Industry for Jewesses, -under Miss Cooper, of England, is not far from the Church of the Holy -Sepulchre, on the street leading to the Damascus Gate. Nearly forty -Jewesses, between the ages of ten and fifty, are there employed. Their -chief work is embroidery and needle-work, some of which is so excellent -as to adorn the garments of the Pasha. The inmates labor four days in -the week; in summer from seven o’clock till twelve, and in winter from -eight till one. The building is divided into three departments――the -work-room, bazar, and school-room. Twelve Jewesses attend the -day-school, eleven the boarding-school; and seven, who are proselytes, -between the ages of five and fifteen, are permanent boarders. Strong -in their traditional faith, and because of the influence of the morning -and evening service in the institution, the parents of these children -give the governess no little trouble in attempting to regain them to -the faith of their national church. - -To the west of the female school is the House of Industry for Converts -and Inquirers, under the auspices of the “London Society for promoting -Religion among the Jews.” The inquirers are maintained gratuitously -for two years, though required to labor at some mechanical trade. Most -of the inmates are cabinet-makers, manufacturing useful and curious -articles out of olive-wood and other kinds indigenous to the country. -All the beneficiaries are males, ranging from sixteen to forty-five -years of age. A portion of each day is devoted to such religious -instruction and devotion as may lead these sons of Israel to Christ. -Since the establishment of the institution in 1848, forty-two -converts have been baptized in the name of the adorable Trinity, and -a proselyte-meeting is daily held and well attended. With a clearness -worthy of maturer Christians, some of the converts answered our -questions touching their religious experience, and, if faithful to -their high calling, will be lights to their brethren in the Holy City. - -Among the Christian sects in Jerusalem, the Armenians are the most -wealthy, aristocratic, and influential. Their chief establishment is -on Mount Zion, consisting of the gorgeous Church of St. James, and a -spacious convent capable of accommodating eight thousand pilgrims. Here, -in a new and magnificent apartment, their patriarch resides, whose -episcopal jurisdiction includes all Palestine and the beautiful island -of Cyprus. Their communicants number about five hundred, who are mostly -foreign born, and are among the chief merchants in the metropolis. -Their hundred priests are fine-looking men, attired in neat black -robes, and high hats of the same color without brims. They employ -their time in conducting two theological schools for the education of -neophyte priests, in running a printing-press, and in clerical duties. -In doctrine the Armenians are Monophysites; in ritual, pompous; in -practice, “good livers.” - -Priding themselves on the power of their royal patrons, the Greek and -Latin Christians are contesting their respective claims to superiority. -Together with their patriarch, who is head of the Church, the Greeks -have three hundred bishops, priests, nuns, and theological students. -The patriarch resides in elegant style in a convent attached to the -Church of the Holy Sepulchre, in which there is a fine library of two -thousand volumes. Extending his episcopal sceptre over fourteen sees, -he also controls with absolute authority the twelve convents for monks -and nuns within the city, to which are connected as many churches. -In addition to a theological seminary and three common schools, they -have a college of a high grade in the Convent of the Cross, a mile and -a half west of the city, where one hundred young men have entered a -collegiate course of seven years, maintained and educated gratuitously -by Russian gold. Not less than four thousand people are under their -pastoral care, most of whom are native born. Their ancient rivals, the -Latins, are rising rapidly to affluence and power in the Holy City. -Occupying conjointly with the Greeks and Armenians the Church of the -Holy Sepulchre, they hold exclusive possession of the Chapel of the -Apparition, their principal place of worship in Jerusalem. Numbering -not less than fifteen hundred communicants, who are mostly Syrian -born, they have a patriarch, a hundred monks, and ten nuns. Subject to -their control are a number of churches, schools, and convents. Among -the latter is their famous _Terra Santa_ Convent on Mount Akra. It is -celebrated for its immense treasures, the gifts of European royalty, -and no traveler should leave Jerusalem without seeing those munificent -donations. A hundred Franciscan friars here abide, living in luxury, -and, though moderately temperate themselves, are only too happy -to offer their guests a glass of the choicest arrakee. Here is the -residence of the superior of the convent, who is always an Italian, -appointed by the Pope every three years. For the maintenance of this -monastic establishment a sum not less than $45,000 is annually expended. -Connected with it is the Casa Nuovo, for the entertainment of pilgrims -gratuitously for two weeks, though a gift is never refused; and here is -the grand bazar of pious wares, where the curious traveler may purchase -rosaries, crosses, and crucifixes to any amount. - -A monastic life leads to indolence and contention, and the Greek -and Latin monks of Jerusalem are ignorant and idle, domineering and -quarrelsome, and unworthy representatives of the Christian name. No -one familiar with their character and devotion can regard them as the -true successors of the apostles, or that the faithful missionary spirit -underlies their zeal for temporal and spiritual conquest. It is the -ancient love of power, and the perpetuation of the controversy which -rent the Church of God in the ninth century. Watching the movements -of each other with a jealousy as persistent as it is revengeful, their -rivalries engender bitter contentions, which, culminating in a quarrel -and a riot, the infidel Turk is compelled to suppress by force of arms. -By a conventional arrangement, they visit in procession the sacred -shrines in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at stated hours on ordinary -days, and also on festival occasions. The Greeks have the precedence, -and the Latins follow. Occasionally their festivals occur on the same -day and at the same hour, when their sectarian virulence gaining the -mastery of their piety and reason, they aim to silence each other by -louder vocal and instrumental sounds. Such was the case on Easter -Sunday. Though not their Easter, it was a high day with the Greeks. As -in all basilicas, a broad aisle encircles the interior of the church, -serving as a path for the march of the procession. The chapel of the -Latins opens into this aisle on the west, and at that time they were -intoning the Easter service. Attired in their most gorgeous robes, and -followed by an immense concourse of people, the Greeks had made the -circuit of the church, and, turning their faces toward the open chapel -of the Latins, chanted a barbaric hymn with such force that for a -moment the Catholics were unable to proceed. Fortunately, the organist -came to the rescue of his bishop, and, opening the stops of his -magnificent organ, so thundered with his instrument as to compel the -Greeks to beat a retreat. - -With all their admiration for the Church of St. Helena, their mutual -jealousies are allowing the building to fall to ruin for the want of -timely repairs. The rain, beating in through the circular aperture in -the dome, has so far detached the plastering as to leave the lathing -exposed. After every storm large quantities of the plaster fall, and, -while present on one occasion, a piece fell to the injury of a personal -friend. Supposing it would be a concession of the right of possession -to allow either sect to repair the dome and save the church from ruin, -both parties refuse to do it conjointly, and neither will allow the -other to do it separately. - -France and Russia would confer an unspeakable benediction upon the -world, and remove a scandal from the Christian name, by stopping -such petty feuds, and demanding a reconciliation no less humane than -Christian. But it is to be feared the emperors of those great nations -have political designs in the East to be consummated which are promoted -rather than retarded by such ecclesiastical broils. Both aspire to -empire in the Holy Land. More fortunate than the Emperor of the North, -Napoleon III., as the imperial patron of the Latin Church, has received, -as a consideration for the services rendered the Turkish government in -the Crimean war, the venerable Church of St. Anne, near St. Stephen’s -Gate, and the beautiful green square opposite the Church of the Holy -Sepulchre, which was once the possession of the Knights of St. John. -Russian gold, however, has purchased what Turkish liberality had -withheld. In the East, “money answereth all things.” A Turk will sell -his soul for gold. Under the auspices of the Russian government, a -piece of ground beyond the city walls on the northwest side has been -purchased, and sixteen thousand square yards have been inclosed by a -stone wall, not unlike, in strength and appearance, the wall of a fort. -Within the inclosure four water-tanks have been constructed, several -buildings erected, the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, a large house for -the ecclesiastical mission, a hospital containing sixty beds, and an -asylum capable of receiving three hundred pilgrims. For the completion -of this extraordinary work on the Meidan the Russian pilgrims to the -shrines of the Holy City have contributed 660,000 rubles, and a farther -sum of 350,000 is required to complete the original design. Within the -city the Russians are erecting an asylum for female pilgrims, which -in every way will be worthy of the wealth and power of their nation. -In excavating to lay the foundation of this building, the workmen -descended through the rubbish thirty-five feet, when they came upon -the remains of porticoes and pillars which once formed part of the -principal entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in the time -of Constantine the Great. It is an event of thrilling interest to the -archæologist and Biblical scholar; and were a commission appointed -by the several Christian nations of the earth to secure the consent -of the Turkish government, and to superintend the excavation, ancient -Jerusalem might be uncovered, the palaces of her kings exhumed, and the -paths trodden by the world’s Redeemer pressed by the willing feet of -his devoted followers. - -For more than forty years the light of a pure Christianity has -been shining upon the city of David, dispelling the mists of error, -revealing new forms of moral beauty, and lighting up the path of life. -In 1841, the European mission to Jerusalem was modified and its several -branches united under a common head, whose episcopal supervision -includes Mesopotamia, Chaldea, Syria, Palestine, Egypt, and Abyssinia. -Uniting in this religious compact, England and Prussia agreed that the -diocesan bishop should be nominated alternately by the sovereigns of -the two kingdoms, with the right of veto invested in the Archbishop -of Canterbury as to the Prussian nominee. The only stipulations in -the contract are the right to alternate with the British sovereign -in appointing the incumbent of the Episcopal see, and the use of the -cathedral when not occupied by the English Christians. True to her -traditional policy to gain all things and lose nothing by her treaties, -England consented, and the treaty was ratified. To support the bishop, -the late Frederick William of Prussia funded $75,000, and England -contributes annually a sum equal to the interest on the above amount. - -The foundation stone of the new Protestant Cathedral was laid by Bishop -Alexander in 1842, on Mount Zion, and consecrated to God on the 1st of -January, 1849. To comply with the exacting conditions imposed by the -Turkish government, the church was built in connection with the English -consulate. It is now called “Christ Church,” and is an elegant Gothic -structure of yellow limestone, capable of accommodating 300 persons. -Attached to it is a large plat of ground, occupied by residences and -offices for the clergy and agents of the mission. Bishop Gobart, the -present incumbent of the see, is a man of genuine Episcopal dignity; -his face is kind and intelligent; his heart has the pathos of a woman’s. -His Easter sermon was simple, tender, evangelical. He enlists your -attention by the tenderness of his tones, and melts you to tears by the -depth of his emotion. He is a Christian of large charities, maintaining -out of his ample income several schools in different parts of Palestine. -He is assisted by the Rev. Mr. Hefter, an eminent scholar and a -thorough gentleman, and by the Rev. Dr. Sandriczki, who has the general -oversight of the literature of the mission. Near the church on Mount -Zion is the Bible House, well supplied with the precious Word of Life. -Not far from it is the female school, containing thirty native pupils; -and beyond the wall on Zion, in a substantial stone building, is the -male department, in which eighty boys were being educated for Christ by -five Christian teachers. - -In connection with the Prussian consulate is Pastor Valentiner, -chaplain to Dr. Rosen, one of the most learned men in Palestine. Under -the auspices of the consulate is a school for children and a hospital -for poor pilgrims. The building is pleasantly situated on Mount Zion, -and contains forty-one girls and as many boys, who are taught five -different languages, with other branches of knowledge. These children -are required to remain, by contract, from five to eight years, and, -if the contract is broken by their parents, they are to pay the amount -of expense incurred. The pupils represent nearly every nation, whose -pilgrim parents have either abandoned them in a strange land, or died -far from home. The “House of Charity” is governed by six deaconesses, -principally Prussians. They dress in a simple blue gown and a clean -white cap. They are excellent women and efficient teachers. The rules -of their order require them to remain single during a fixed term -of years, at the expiration of which most of them marry. Their home -is often the scene of the most thrilling events. Shortly prior to -our arrival in Jerusalem, a Turk had reached the city, and having -squandered his money in pleasure, was compelled to abandon his two -slave girls――one a beautiful Circassian, the other a dark Abyssinian. -Touched with their sad condition, the kind deaconesses received them -to their “House of Charity.” The former, after a brief time, embraced -religion, was baptized, and died happy. The latter appeared stupid, and, -when addressed on the subject of religion, declared herself “a donkey.” -She had attained her fourteenth year, and, after six months under the -tuition of those Christian women, who watched her last moments with the -fondness of sisters, she died of scrofula. Every effort to enlighten -her mind had been unavailing, eliciting her only reply, “I am a donkey.” -But, to the surprise of all, on the night of her death she requested -baptism at the hands of Pastor Valentiner, to whose inquiry why she -desired the holy rite administered to her, referred him to the death of -the Circassian slave, whose experience she had watched, and whose last -joyful accents she had carefully cherished. Expressing as her last wish -on earth to go where slaves are free and where woman is loved, she -passed from earth to heaven. - - - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Road to Jericho. ―― Delay. ―― Caravan. ―― Robbers. ―― Ladies. - ―― Scenery. ―― Waters of Enshemesh. ―― Wilderness of Judea. - ―― Scene of Christ’s Temptation. ―― Thieves of Jericho. ―― - Parable of the Good Samaritan. ―― Brook Cherith. ―― Wild - Region. ―― Elijah fed by the Ravens. ―― First View of the - Plain of the Jordan. ―― Evening at Jericho. ―― Ruins of the - ancient City. ―― Historical Events. ―― Fountain of Elisha. ―― - ’Ain Dûk. ―― Castle of Doch. ―― Jericho of the New Testament. - ―― Scene of Herod’s Death. ―― Town of Riha. ―― Site of Gilgal. - ―― Great Events. ―― Sunrise on the Plain of Jericho. ―― - Richness of the Plain. ―― Quarantania. ―― Description of - Turkish Soldiers. ―― The Ride. ―― Banks of the Jordan. ―― - Sources of the Sacred River. ―― The ten Fountains. ―― The - three Lakes. ―― Descent and Sinuosities of the River. ―― Glen - through which it flows. ―― Flowers and Trees on its Banks. - ―― Birds in its Shrubbery and Beasts in its Thickets. ―― Its - Color. ―― Depth. ―― Rapidity. ―― Twenty-seven Rapids. ―― Falls. - ―― Islands in the River. ―― Roman Bridges. ―― Brook Jabbok. ―― - Jacob and the Angel. ―― War Scenes. ―― Entrance of the Jordan - into the Dead Sea. ―― Meaning of Jordan. ―― Pilgrim’s Ford. ―― - Charming Scenery. ―― Mountains of Moab. ―― Vision of Balaam. - ―― Vision of Moses. ―― His Death. ―― Crossing of the Jordan by - the Israelites. ―― Probable Place. ―― Overflowing of the River. - ―― Causes. ―― Translation of Elijah. ―― Cure of Naaman. ―― - Baptismal Stations of John the Baptist. ―― Bethabara. ―― Ænon. - ―― Scene of Christ’s Baptism here. ―― The Argument for it. - ―― Journey to the Dead Sea. ―― Robbers. ―― Features of the - Sea. ―― Delightful Bath. ―― Dimensions of the Sea. ―― Its Bed - coeval with the Upper and Lower Valleys. ―― Sea larger than - formerly. ―― No Outlet. ―― Its Waters evaporate. ―― Peninsula. - ―― Island. ―― Surrounding Mountains. ―― Hot Springs of - Callirrhoe. ―― Sublime Chasm. ―― Castle of Machaerus. ―― Wild - Glen. ―― River Arnon. ―― Scenery. ―― City of Kerak. ―― Ruins - of Zoar. ―― Location of Sodom. ―― Manner of its Destruction. - ―― Mountain of Salt, cause of the saltness of the Sea. ―― - Lot’s Wife. ―― Ruins of Masada. ―― Besieged by Flavius Silva. - ―― Tragical Death of 600 Sicarii, their Wives and Children. ―― - Fountain of the Kid. ―― David and Saul. ―― Maon. ―― The Home - of Abigail. ―― Journey to Bethlehem. ―― Wilderness of Engedi. - ―― A Night with the Monks of Mâr Sâba. ―― The Monastery. ―― - Bethlehem. ―― Its Names. ―― Antiquity. ―― History. ―― Convent - of the Franciscans. ―― The Stable of the Nativity. ―― Present - Condition. ―― Pictures. ―― The Manger. ―― Tomb of St. Paula. - ―― Cell of St. Jerome. ―― Basilica of St. Helena. ―― Evidence - that this is the Birthplace of Christ. ―― Stable in a House. - ―― Situation of Bethlehem. ―― Population. ―― Beautiful Women. - ―― Herodium. ―― Tomb of Herod the Great. ―― Cave of Adullam. - ―― Hiding-place of David. ―― Its Wonders. - - -THE road from Jerusalem to Jericho leads from St. Stephen’s Gate down -the steep sides of Moriah, across the Valley of the Kidron, over the -southwestern shoulder of Olivet, near the village of Bethany, through -the wilderness of Judea, and, descending the Mountain of Quarantania, -terminates on the great Plain of Jordan. It is another illustration of -the accuracy of the sacred writers in their topographical allusions, -and another proof that only those who were familiar with the land――who -had traversed its highways and noted its natural features, could have -written descriptions so minute, and, withal, so incidental. In his -parable of the “Good Samaritan,” the Savior casually states, “A certain -man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho;” which not only indicates -the relative position of the latter place to the former, but also the -descent of nearly 4000 feet from the Jewish capital to the city of -Herod the Great. To the careful and candid observer, such internal -evidence of the Bible is ever forcing itself upon his attention, -and calling forth expressions of wonder and admiration for the -truth-telling chroniclers of our Lord’s life and ministry. - -The “latter rains” had delayed our departure for the Jordan, and a -farther delay had been caused by the high March winds, which had so -dried the surface of the earth, and had filled the air with dust to -such an extent, that for the space of a whole day the Mount of Olives -was invisible even to one standing upon the wall of the city. But -the charms of a Syrian spring morning soon returned, and at an early -hour we were in the saddle, waiting impatiently for the caravan to -rendezvous at the Garden of Gethsemane. It was a day peculiar to the -Promised Land, for the blandness of the sky and the softness of the air. -The foliage on shrub and tree wore every shade of green, and the lovely -flowers that covered vale and hill-side recalled the beautiful lines of -Shelley: - - “And the spring arose on the garden fair, - Like the spirit of love felt every where; - And each flower and herb on earth’s dark breast - Rose from the dreams of its wintry rest.” - -Our dragoman had agreed to furnish horses, tents, board, and military -escort for the journey at six dollars a day _per capita_. The escort -is indispensable, for he who goes down to Jericho without a guard -“falls among thieves,” and, though it is only a question of time -when the traveler is robbed, whether prior to the tour or afterward, -yet, for the sake of convenience, the former is preferable. He is -robbed before the journey by the government, which insists that every -pilgrim must pay for its protection; he is robbed on the journey by the -organized banditti of the Ghôr, whose depredations the government winks -at, if it does not connive with the thieves themselves. - -It was ten o’clock A.M. when the caravan moved. Happily for the social -amenities their society afforded and the smiles of joy their presence -never failed to impart, we were joined by the talented and amiable wife -and daughter of a distinguished New Yorker,[245] who was making the -tour of Palestine. Mounted on their swift Arabian horses, and tilting -their long burnished spears, the Arab guard led the way, followed by -the ladies on gentler horses, while the heavy-laden mules, carrying -tents, baggage, and cuisine, brought up the rear. On our right lay the -Valley of Jehoshaphat, with its monumental tombs; on our left were the -terraced slopes of Olivet, green with verdure and bright with flowers; -while before us rose the rugged Hill of Offense. Crossing the shoulder -of the Mount of Olives, the path sweeps abruptly to the east, and, -after winding round the head of the small valley that furrows the -hill-side, descends eastward past the place where the Redeemer paused -to weep over Jerusalem, and just beyond skirts the town of Bethany. -Descending between rough and barren hills, we entered a rocky glen, -and in half an hour came to the fountain of El-Haud, the “waters of -Enshemesh,”[246] marking the boundary-line between Judah and Benjamin. -It is the halting-place of caravans, and its cool, sweet water, flowing -into a stone trough beneath a Saracenic arch, is alike refreshing to -man and beast in a region so waste and arid. Continuing down the glen -for more than an hour, we turned to the left, and soon began the ascent -of a wild ravine, the sides of which are limestone, streaked in -graceful curves with dikes of porphyry. As the farewells of cultivation, -and half rebuking Nature for her general sterility, a stray flower -peeped above the rocks, and a stunted tree stood in silent desolation -on the hill above. Gradually ascending over chalky hills, our path lay -through the bleak Wilderness of Judea. At noon we reached the summit -of the central ridge between Enshemesh and Jericho. Neither pen can -describe nor pencil sketch the forbidding aspect of this dreary spot. -The hills are broken into a thousand rugged, barren peaks, and in color -are a mixture of yellow and of a dull red and white. The intervening -valleys are dry and stony, and on all that blighted soil there is -neither shrub, flower, blade of grass, nor any living thing to relieve -the dreariness of the accursed scene. Fit abode for the devil and his -angels, the counterpart of Pandemonium, it was hither the Spirit led -the suffering Son of God to encounter the Evil One.[247] - -For twenty centuries this region has borne a thievish character, and -the lapse of time has not changed its reputation. As in the days of our -Lord, it is still infested with robbers, who, from their undiscovered -dens, or from behind some craggy bluff or beetling cliff, level their -long gun at the unwary traveler. Suggested by the dangers of the route, -the desolation of the spot, and the remains of an ancient caravansary, -tradition has identified it as the scene of the parable of the “Good -Samaritan.” Hard by the roadside are broken walls, fragments of an -arch, and deep vaults, said to mark the site of that inn to which -the “certain man was brought who went down to Jericho and fell among -thieves.”[248] - -Resuming our journey, we began rapidly to ascend, and soon came upon -portions of an old Roman road dating back to the reign of Herod the -Great. Winding downward amid chalky hills and through narrow rocky -defiles, we at length reached the brow of that sublime gorge through -which the brook Cherith flows. Like a silver thread, the stream is seen -flowing between banks bright with oleanders. It is here Elijah was fed -by the ravens while the famine raged in Palestine. Rising like massive -walls five hundred feet high on either side, the mountains cast their -deep shadows into the profound chasm below. In their precipitous sides -the anchorites have burrowed their solitary cells, and on the loftier -crags the Syrian eagle builds his eyrie. Increased by the sombre -foliage of the stunted shrubbery clinging to the rocks, there is a -solemn grandeur in this mountain gorge, reflecting the sturdy character -and rugged life of the great prophet of Tishbeh. Skirting the very -verge of the cliff, the winding path descends five hundred feet to the -bottom of the glen, where the white rocks reflect the heat like the -blast of a furnace. Bearing the Arabic name of El-Kelt, we soon reached -the verdant banks of the prophetic brook. The waters are clear, cool, -and sweet, but in early autumn, as in the time of Elijah, the stream -becomes dry, and as then, so now, the black-winged raven croaks in its -flight over the deep ravine.[249] The Cherith flows through the Valley -of Achor over the Plain of Jericho, and, meandering as it advances, -is lost amid the shrubbery surrounding the castle of Rîha. Refreshed -by its delicious waters, we ascended the northern bank of the -streamlet, and were soon in the Vale of Achor, where Achan was stoned -to death.[250] - - Illustration: RAVEN. - -Like the enchantment of a mirage, the Plains of the Jordan, green -and well-watered, now burst upon our view, and beyond appeared the -trans-Jordanic mountains. Following the sinuous banks of the Kelt, we -reached the foot of the descent late in the afternoon, and, turning -northward, pitched our tents near the Fountain of Elisha. The sun had -gone down behind Mizpeh and Gibeon; the shadows of Quarantania lay -darkly on the plain; the bleating flocks on the distant hill-side had -gathered round the shepherd of the Ghôr; the stars came out one by one -from their empyrean abode, and we lay down to slumber amid the ruins of -ancient Jericho. - -Two cities, neither identical in site nor history, have borne the name -of Jericho――one belonging to the age of the prophets, the other founded -by Herod the Great and visited by our Lord. The remains of the former -consist of six mounds of rubbish and two noble fountains, located half -a mile from the foot of the mountain pass. These mounds vary in height -from ten to forty feet, and in like proportions in their circumference. -Around their bases and on their sides and summits are the débris of -old buildings, such as heaps of hewn stone and fragments of pottery, -and within them are the entombed dwellings and palaces of the ancient -city, remaining for future excavations to uncover. Situated on this -magnificent plain, the walls and towers of the older Jericho attracted -the attention of the Israelites, who from the mountains on the other -side of the Jordan looked down with delight upon this, the first city -of Canaan which they had seen.[251] Hither came the spies to “search -out the country;” here lived the friendly Rahab, who secreted the -two Israelites under the “stalks of flax which she had laid in order -upon the roof;” to the west are the mountains whither she sent them -to elude pursuit;[252] and around these mounds stood the walls which -were miraculously thrown down.[253] Dooming the city to perpetual -destruction and infamy for the gross idolatry of the inhabitants, -Joshua pronounced a curse upon him who should attempt to rebuild it, -which 550 years thereafter was singularly fulfilled in the days of -Ahab.[254] Here the embassadors of David, whom Hanun, king of the -Ammonites, so shamefully treated, were ordered to remain “till their -beards were grown.”[255] Subsequently to the reconstruction of the city -by Hiel, it became the seat of the famous school of the prophets.[256] -From it Elijah and Elisha passed over the plain to the Jordan, and, -crossing the river by a miracle, the former was translated, and the -latter, returning to the city, reluctantly consented that fifty of the -sons of the prophets should ascend the mountains of Moab to search for -Elijah.[257] Delighted with its pleasant situation, and desiring to -make it their permanent abode, the young prophets requested Elisha -to heal the fountain and restore fertility to the land; and after the -miracle, the effects of which are apparent to this day, the successor -of the renowned Tishbite left Jericho for Bethel.[258] - -The fountain which the prophet healed is now called ’Ain es-Sultân, -and gushes forth from the base of a double mound. The water is cool and -sweet, and, after pouring into a large semicircular reservoir, flows in -random streamlets to the Jordan. Less than three miles to the northwest -is the more copious fountain of ’Ain Dûk, supplied from two springs -bursting out of the southern bank of Wady en-Narwaimeh. The water is -conducted by an aqueduct along the base of Quarantania to sugar-mills -half a mile distant from ’Ain es-Sultân; but, as the mills are now in -ruins, this fine stream performs no higher work than to water a few -gardens of cucumbers in the vicinity of its source and along its course. -Around these springs are strewn the remains of the celebrated Castle -of Doch, in which Simon Maccabæus was murdered by his son-in-law -Ptolemy.[259] Abandoning the site of the ancient city, Herod the Great -founded the Jericho of the New Testament on the banks of the Cherith, -a mile and a half to the south. Around it were the palm-groves and -balsam-gardens which Antony presented to Cleopatra, and which the -Idumean farmed of the Egyptian queen.[260] Selecting it as one of his -royal cities, Herod adorned it with a palace, a hippodrome, and other -magnificent buildings. Here he entertained Cleopatra in a sumptuous -manner, and here he terminated his life. From this palace he was borne, -amid unrivaled funeral pomp, over the southern plain, and up to the -wild pass of Nukb el-Kuneiterah, to be interred on the summit of -Herodium, in the splendid mausoleum which he himself had constructed -at great expense during his reign.[261] More than thirty years after -the death of this royal monster, Jericho was visited by Christ, in -his frequent tours from the Land of Moab to Judea. Here resided the -rich publican Zaccheus, with whom Jesus lodged; by the side of some of -its thoroughfares blind Bartimeus sat, whom the compassionate Savior -restored to sight; and from scenes so tender he ascended to Jerusalem, -to make his triumphal entry into the Holy City.[262] - -Not two miles to the southeast is the Arab town of Rîha. It is small -and filthy, and contains a few hovels occupied by from fifty to one -hundred inhabitants, who are guilty of the sins of Sodom. Within a rude -court-yard is the only reservoir of the village, and near it stands a -rough stone tower thirty feet square and forty high. It is the barrack -of the Turkish garrison, stationed here for the protection of the -government lands, for the defense of the peasants of the Ghôr, to -collect the taxes imposed upon the miserable villagers, to punish -offenders, and to serve as the escort of travelers _en route_ for the -Jordan and the Dead Sea. Though bearing the name of Jericho, it is -more probably the site of ancient Gilgal. In view of the silence of -historians on the point, it is impossible now to decide whether Gilgal -was the name of a city or the designation of a tract of land, though -the former is more in harmony with the scriptural account of the place. -Accepting Josephus as authority, Gilgal was ten stadia, or less than -a mile and a half, from Jericho, and fifty stadia, or more than six -miles, from the Jordan.[263] The old Tower of Rîha coincides in its -location with this description, and may be regarded as indicating with -sufficient accuracy the scene of so many memorable events. Few names in -sacred history recall scenes more thrilling and momentous than Gilgal. -Removing the twelve monumental stones from the bed of the Jordan, -Joshua caused them to be placed here as the memorial of the miraculous -dividing of the river;[264] around them the Israelites first pitched -their tents within the Promised Land;[264] here they rolled away the -reproach of Egypt by the renewal of the rite of circumcision;[265] -here they kept the Passover for the first time in Canaan;[266] here -Joshua saw, in a day-vision, the captain of the Lord’s host “standing -over against him with his sword drawn in his hand;”[267] and here -the tabernacle was first set up in Palestine, where it remained till -removed to Shiloh.[268] Four centuries later Samuel held his court -nigh unto this ruined tower, and offered sacrifices for the people then -assembled.[269] Here Saul of Gibeah was made King of Israel,[270] and -two years thereafter, upon the very spot of his coronation, he lost -his kingdom by acting “foolishly.”[271] After the death of Absalom the -tribe of Judah assembled here to hail the return of David.[272] And -here, in the reign of Jehoram, Elisha healed the poisoned pot,[273] -restored Naaman to health, and cursed Gehazi with leprosy for his -cupidity.[274] - -The sun rose upon the Plains of Jericho after our first night’s -slumber among the Arabs of the Ghôr, reflecting a pale yellow light -through dense masses of mist which obscured from view the summits of -the distant mountains. Ascending the loftiest spur of Quarantania, a -landscape of extraordinary character lay before me. Stretching from -the northern shore of the Lake of Tiberias to the southern coast of -the Dead Sea, the valley of the Lower Jordan unfolded to the eye its -manifold and marvelous features. A hundred and twenty miles in length, -ten in breadth, and 1312 feet below the level of the Mediterranean, it -is among the greatest geological wonders of the globe. From sea to sea -lofty mountains bound this great chasm on either side. Rising thousands -of feet above the river terrace, the Moab range forms the eastern wall -of the great valley, while the Heights of Galilee, the Mountains of -Samaria, and the Hills of Judea run along its western border. Broken -and barren, the sides of these mountains are furrowed with deep ravines, -the frequented passes to the plains below. As far as the eye can reach, -the deep, tortuous bed of the Jordan is seen along its eastern side, -the turbid waters of which remain unseen till viewed from the second -terrace of the stream. The broadest portion of the Jordan valley, -the Plain of Jericho is not unlike in form a vast semicircle. Not ten -miles long, it is less than eight broad from the roots of the western -mountains to the banks of the river. On the south is the Dead Sea, -on the east the Jordan, on the north are the Hills of Judea dipping -into the rushing river, and on the west is Quarantania rising 2000 -feet above its base. Level in the centre, but gently undulating toward -the north and south, it has a soil of inexhaustible fertility; and -abundantly watered by its numerous fountains, its groves of zukkûm, -its beautiful willows, its verdant meadows, its flowers and rank weeds -growing luxuriantly, sustain the scriptural allusion to “Jericho, the -city of palm-trees,”[275] and the prophetic blessing, the promise of -perennial fruitfulness.[276] Such was its fertility in the “Middle -Ages,” that the cultivation of the sugar-cane, with other products, -yielded the nuns of Bethany an annual revenue of $25,000,[277] and by -the application of scientific agriculture, would again become, in the -language of Josephus, a “divine region.”[278] - - Illustration: PLAIN OF JERICHO AND VIEW OF THE DEAD SEA - FROM THE NORTH. - -Called Quarantania to indicate the forty days during which the Son -of God endured the assaults of the Evil One upon its summit, the Mount -of Temptation is sterile and gloomy. The rocks are white and naked; -the sides are perforated with the cells of hermits, who, retiring from -society, hope by the rigors of a solitary life to obtain a better world; -and the summit is crowned with a small chapel, the only monument of the -Redeemer’s triumph over the Prince of Darkness. In the lower caves some -wild Bedouins, with their families, had taken refuge, and near them -were shepherds keeping their scanty flocks. - -The sun had mounted high above the thick mists, which at an earlier -hour had veiled his brightness, when I returned to the encampment. -Weary in waiting my return, the caravan had moved, and I was left alone -among the “thieves of Jericho.” The sight of a revolver extorted from -a skulking Arab the direction the party had taken, and applying whip -and spur, I dashed through the jungle on the banks of the Cherith, and -in half an hour rejoined it. On reaching Rîha we obtained an additional -escort. Our military guard now consisted of six soldiers――five Bedouins -and their sheikh. Though wild in their exterior, there was a rude -grandeur in the soldiers of Rîha. Each wore a loose garment of camel’s -hair, with openings in the side for the free play of the arms, a pair -of rough sandals on his otherwise naked feet, and a bright-colored -shawl of Broosa silk thrown carelessly on the head, and held firmly -by an elastic cord, the ends of the shawl hanging loosely down. Each -carried a brace of pistols and a pair of daggers in his girdle; over -the shoulder was slung a long gun, by the side dangled a Damascus -blade, and in the hand was borne a lance fifteen feet long. The saddle -of each was large, with the bow terminating front and rear in a pommel. -The stirrups were of sheet iron, fourteen inches long and seven wide, -gently curving, the lateral edges turned upward. Each was mounted on -a small but swift and spirited horse, and the captain of the band was -followed by a pack of hounds used for hunting gazelles. Their speed -was wonderful. Proud of their splendid horsemanship and willing to -excite our admiration, these rude soldiers of the Desert gave proof of -their marvelous skill and daring, darting forward with the suddenness -and celerity of the thunderbolt over hill, through gully, over rocks, -through briers, over streams, through thickets, tilting the spear as -they rode, as if to plunge it into some advancing foe. - -For half an hour our path lay through a jungle of thorny shrubs, beyond -which was an open plain. The day was glorious; the air balmy; the sun -shone through a gauze-like haze; the leafy songsters, from their sylvan -coverts along the streamlets, “caroled the melody of their song.” Our -horses were fleet, our spirits buoyant, and over that noble plain we -rode with unbounded delight. Both in kind and richness the soil varied -as we advanced. Now it was barren and covered with a thin, smooth, -nitrous crust, through which we sank as in ashes; again it was rich, -bearing groves of fruit-trees, tufts of the feathery tamarisk, and -beautiful oleanders, with their finger-like leaves and tulip-shaped -flowers. At ten A.M. we reached the first terrace, or highest bank of -the Jordan, composed of irregular hills of clay, and measuring twenty -feet deep. Here our soldiers sallied forth, plunging into the dense -thickets and sweeping like lightning around the hills to discover -the robbers and save us from surprise. In fifteen minutes more we had -descended to the second terrace, and five minutes thereafter we stood -on the banks of the most sacred and renowned river in the world. Other -rivers are deeper, broader, longer, but the Jordan is unsurpassed in -the peculiarities of its source, the sinuosities of its channel, the -glories of its history. Springing from the heart of anti-Libanus, ten -crystal fountains pour their eternal waters into its descending current. -From the base of snow-capped Hermon three noble fountains send their -united contributions southward, feeding the River Hasbâny. Situated -forty miles to the north from the head of Lake Tiberias, the first is -the Fountain Fuarr, at Hasbeîya, and is the remotest perennial source -of the Jordan; the second is called Sareid, located south of Kefr -Shubah; the third is Luisany, near El-Ghujar. Eighteen miles to the -south from Hasbeîya is the largest permanent fountain in the world, -known as El-Leddân. Its pure waters gush forth from the foot of the -green hill of El-Kâdy, and, after forming a pool, they flow southward -in a broad stream, increased in its course by many rills creeping -from beneath noble oaks, and at length it joins the Hasbâny seven -miles north of Lake Merom. Four miles to the east from El-Kâdy is -the Fountain of Banias, next in size to that of El-Leddân, but which, -unlike the latter, originates in many rivulets, which, uniting, rush on -to a confluence with the Leddân, and, a mile below the junction, join -the Hasbâny. Farther to the south the fountains of Derdara, Ruahiny, -and those of Belât, Blâta, and El-Mellâhah, unite with the same stream, -which, after flowing southward for six miles over the lovely Plain of -Hûleh, spreads out into Lake Merom, on whose shores Joshua achieved -his final triumph over the banded kings of Canaan.[279] Four and a half -miles in length and three and a half in breadth, this gem of the lakes -is the first gathering together of the waters of the Jordan from their -perennial springs. The lake having a triangular form, the river issues -through the apex, and, after running nine miles with a fall of 650 -feet, expands into the Sea of Galilee, which is thirteen miles long and -six wide. The inlet to the sea is seventy feet broad, and the waters, -flowing between alluvial banks, are lazy and turbid. Purified in their -passage through this second reservoir of the Jordan, they find an -outlet in the southwest corner of the sea. Here the river is more than -ninety feet wide, the banks are high and round, and the contiguous -mountains rugged and barren. Half unwilling to leave the parent waters -to take the headlong leap over twenty-seven rapids to the Sea of Death, -the Jordan turns back upon itself; but, forced at length to return by -the unyielding rocks, it cuts a channel westward, then west by south, -when, impelled by the unchanging law of gravitation, it rushes madly -southward, foaming and leaping downward 700 feet in less than sixty -miles. Though, between the seas as the crow flies, the actual distance -is not more than sixty miles, yet, owing to the infinite multiplication -of its windings, it is more than 200 miles in length. The tortuous glen -through which it flows varies in breadth from 200 to 600 yards, and in -depth from fifty to eighty below the surrounding plain. The sides of -the glen are abrupt and broken, composed of marl and clay intermixed -with limestone. Where it is widest, the bottom is mud covered with -reeds; where it is narrowest, it is rock and sand. Along its banks -grow in rich profusion the scarlet anemone, the yellow marigold, -the water-lily, the feathery tamarisk, the pink oleander, the Syrian -thistle with its gorgeous purple blossom, and cane-reeds, oaks, -willows, and wild pistachios. Amid foliage so rich and rare are birds -of exquisite plumage and variant song. Disporting in the water are -herons and ducks; dancing from bower to bower are sparrows, swallows, -and nightingales; wheeling their tireless flight over stream and shrub -are eagles, partridges, hawks, and snipes, while storks spread their -vast wings along the banks, and - - “The moping owl does to the moon complain - Of such as, wandering near her secret bower, - Molest her ancient solitary reign.” - -In the deep, impenetrable jungle, extending for miles in depth along -either bank, is now, as formerly, the hiding-place of the leopard, the -wild boar, and tiger. - -In color the Jordan is not unlike the Tiber. In breadth it varies from -eighty to 240 feet; in depth it is from two to sixteen feet; in motion -it flows from two to twelve knots an hour, bearing on its yellow bosom, -as it rolls to the sea, the débris of northern forests. In its descent -there are wild cascades, down which the foaming torrent leaps eleven -feet, at the rate of twelve miles an hour. Throughout its sinuous -course there are twenty-seven rapids, some of which are 900 feet long, -and the shallow waters foam as they pass over the large boulders of -sandstone and trap. Below the longest rapid there is a series of five -falls, having a descent of eighteen feet, with rapids between them; and -at El-Bŭk’ah there is a whirlpool grand and dangerous. At intervals, -where the channel is deep and free from rocks, a boat might glide -with ease and pleasure. In the broader portions of the river bed there -are islands, some barren, others verdant and flowery. Near the four -well-known fords are the remains of old mills, with their sluices, -and the ruins of ancient bridges of Roman construction, pointing us -back to a better civilization, and reflecting the genius, industry, -and utility of a former age. At Semakh, a mile south of the Lake of -Tiberias, are the abutments of a fine bridge of ninety feet span, and -at Zurka are the remains of a nobler structure. - - Illustration: SHOOTING THE RAPIDS. - -Midway the two seas the Brook Jabbok flows into the Jordan. Descending -through a deep ravine, amid the loftiest of the Ajlûn range, its volume -is swelled by the mountain torrents, rendering it at times impassable. -Its banks are fringed with tamarisks and oleanders, the clustering -flower of the latter imparting a gorgeous aspect to the scene. As three -thousand years ago the Jabbok was the boundary between the kingdoms -of Sihon and of Og,[280] so this modern Zurka is the dividing line -between the province of Belka and that of Ajlûn. Somewhere on its banks -occurred one of those thrilling events so common in the patriarchal -history. Coming from the distant home of Laban, enriched with the -rewards of twenty years’ industry, and blessed with a numerous family -of children and servants, the patriarch Jacob halted on the northern -bank of the Jabbok, and that night wrestled with an angel. And as -the light of the coming day dawned, down the glens and sides of the -southern mountain the chieftain of Seir came, with his four hundred -warriors. Hoping to appease Esau’s anger by the gentleness of his -manner, Jacob crossed the brook, and, forgetting the enmities of -boyhood, the twin brothers embraced and were reconciled. Parting, Esau -returned to his mountain home, and, fording the Jordan here, Jacob -ascended by the beautiful Tirzah, and dwelt in the Vale of Shechem.[281] - -Centuries later, this brook was the scene of events less peaceful. -Obeying the heroic Gideon, the men of Ephraim took possession of -this ford and slew the fugitive Midianites;[282] and ninety years -thereafter the Gileadites under Jephthah, descending from their native -mountains, held the passage of the stream, and slew every Ephraimite -whose betraying tongue could not correctly pronounce the password -Shibboleth.[283] - -The Pilgrim’s Ford, opposite Jericho, is no less enchanting in its -natural scenery than it is memorable for its sacred associations. A -hundred feet wide and twelve deep, the Jordan sweeps by at the rate of -six knots an hour. From this point to the Dead Sea the river retains -its general peculiarities of sinuosity, of color, of rapidity, of banks, -and foliage. The inlet to the Asphaltic Lake is three feet deep and 540 -wide, and here is the third and largest reservoir of the Jordan――its -first and only stage of rest. Here it ends. - -This being an ancient ford, the western bank is worn down to the -water’s edge by the tread of many generations. On either side willows -bend their graceful limbs to touch the rapid stream, tamarisks wave -gently in the soft zephyrs, oleanders bloom amid foliage of lighter -and deeper green, and the crystal streamlet from Rîha flows into the -turbulent Jordan among trees of statelier form. A little to the south -the banks are steep, and the bottom is soft and covered with weeds and -lacerating briers. Directly opposite, the Mountains of Moab rise in -all their rugged grandeur, with their sides broken by deep ravines and -their summits veiled in a purple haze. Forgotten in the lapse of time, -yet somewhere on those loftier peaks were the high places of Baal,[284] -the “field of Zophim,”[285] and the “top of Peor,”[286] whither Balak -led Balaam to curse Israel. From those summits of vision the prophet of -Pethor looked down upon the Lord’s chosen people, but could not “count -the dust of Jacob.”[287] He beheld them “crouching like a lion,”[288] -and, in the rapture of his song, exclaimed, “How goodly are thy tents, -O Jacob, and thy tabernacles, O Israel.”[289] Under more auspicious -circumstances, a greater than Balaam surveyed the Land of Promise from -Pisgah’s top.[290] Turning northward, “his eye that was not dim” swept -the land of Gilead unto the icy crown of Hermon; turning westward, -he beheld the distant hills of Naphtali standing out against the sky; -nearer, he saw the possessions of Ephraim and Manasseh; directly before -him was the Land of Judah and Benjamin, the City of the Great King, and -the blue waters of the Mediterranean beyond; while at his feet lay the -rich plain of Jericho, the “city of palm-trees,” the first conquest of -the triumphant arms of Joshua. In his tent, or in some retired glen, -or on some solitary peak, the son of Amram wrote most of his inspired -history; and yonder, when the work of his wondrous life was finished, -when the farewell view of the goodly Canaan had been completed, when -he had given his final blessing to Eleazar the priest, to Joshua the -warrior, “Moses, the servant of the Lord, died there in the land of -Moab, according to the word of the Lord; and he buried him in a valley -in the land of Moab, over against Beth-peor; but no man knoweth of -his sepulchre unto this day.”[291] A tomb so vast was worthy of the -worldwide influence of his life, and the Mountains of Moab are the -appropriate monument of a character so pure and a name so great. - -The tradition that identifies this ford as the place where the -Israelites crossed the Jordan is supported by the clear and simple -statement that they “passed over right against Jericho.”[292] The -crossing, however, could not have been confined to this limited space. -Here probably the priests crossed, while the multitude sought a passage -at every feasible point between the city of Adam, thirty miles to -the north, and the Dead Sea, five miles to the south. To facilitate -the crossing, this long section of the river-bed became dry, which -was necessitated both by the millions of people to cross, and also by -the impassableness of many portions of the banks. The rendezvous was -opposite Jericho, and as the swarming millions came up the western bank, -they turned northward and southward toward a common centre. Bearing the -ark of the covenant, the priests led the van, and as their feet touched -the water, “the waters which came down from above stood and rose up -upon an heap very far from the city of Adam, that is, beside Zaretan; -and those that came down toward the sea of the plain, even the salt -sea, failed and were cut off, and the people passed over right against -Jericho.”[293] Unlike the dividing of the Red Sea, this was the cutting -off or damming up of the waters on the north; and the miracle is the -more wonderful, as at that time the river was more than ordinarily full. -The incidental allusion that the “Jordan overfloweth all his banks all -the time of harvest”[294] is equally true at the present day. In the -tropical climate of the Jordan Valley the harvest is many weeks earlier -than on the mountains 1300 feet above it. Barley harvest occurring -here in the middle of March and wheat harvest about three weeks later, -it is evident that the allusion refers to the harvest-time of the -Jericho plain. At this time of year the Jordan annually rises to -the fullness of its banks, and not unfrequently overflows them; and, -though occurring in the dry season of the year, the rise is owing -to the melting snows on Mount Hermon, and also to the heavy winter -rains, which, having previously fallen on the Hermon range, and by -March having percolated the sides of the mountains, begin to swell -the springs within them, which, being the sources of the Jordan, then -commence and for weeks continue to pour an increased volume into the -river channel, permitting the traveler of to-day to behold the filling -up and overflowing of the sacred river as it overflowed all its banks -three thousand years ago. - -More than five centuries later, the Jordan was here twice divided in -one day――once for the safe passage of Elijah and Elisha to the land of -Moab, and again for the return of the latter to Jericho;[295] and, two -years subsequently, here the proud Naaman bathed his leprous person and -was made whole. To one unacquainted with the three rivers mentioned in -connection with his cure, there is the appearance of pride and contempt -in his language; but in recalling, in the moment of disappointment -and chagrin, the clear waters of the Abana and Pharphar, in contrast -with the yellow, turbulent waters of the Jordan, the Syrian warrior -but indicated the correctness of his taste in preferring the “rivers -of Damascus to all the waters of Israel.”[296] But after a cure so -miraculous, notwithstanding its inferior beauty, the Jordan must have -been to him the noblest and most sacred of rivers. - -As the baptismal station of John the Baptist, and the scene of our -Lord’s baptism, the Christian contemplates this traditional spot with -deeper, sweeter interest. But, however sincere and intense may be the -desire to identify the scene of an event so hallowed, it is difficult -to ascertain with certainty where that greatest of all baptisms -occurred. In general terms, St. Luke describes John as coming into -“all the country about Jordan;”[297] but, with great precision, -St. John designates two stations of the great Baptist: “Bethabara, -beyond Jordan,”[298] and “Ænon, near Salim.”[299] Signifying “The House -of Passage,” Bethabara may have been the name of some well-known ford; -but the most eminent critics agree that Bethany should be inserted -in the text in the place of Bethabara.[300] Finding it difficult to -discover a Bethany beyond the Jordan, Origen, in the early part of the -third century, changed the reading, and others, following his version, -place Bethabara near the Brook Jabbok, on the east, and Ænon on the -west, eight miles southeast from Bethshean.[301] - -Such locations, however, leave Southern Palestine without a baptismal -station. Born in the south, and from his Judean home called to the -great work of his mission, John’s ministry was commenced in the -“wilderness of Judea.”[302] His first hearers were those of the Jewish -capital and of its adjacent towns: “Then went out unto him Jerusalem, -and all Judea, and all the region round about Jordan.”[303] Preferring -a journey of six hours to one of two days, the people of the south -would naturally descend to this traditional ford, where the Baptist as -naturally would be waiting to receive them. And where else should Jesus -be baptized but where his ancient people had crossed the “swellings of -Jordan,” and nigh unto the capital of his kingdom, whose citizens had -just received his forerunner? - -Having prepared the way of the Messiah in Judea, and to accommodate -the multitudes of the north, and prepare them for the reception of the -promised Christ, John ascended the river to the mouth of the Jabbok, -where he baptized the inhabitants of Samaria; and ascending thirty -miles farther, to the ruined bridge of Semakh, he baptized the people -of Galilee. His mission accomplished in Southern, Central, and Northern -Palestine, and compelled to leave the Jordan at that season of the year -to seek water suitable to drink, John removed to the fountains of Ænon, -eight Roman miles southeast from Scythopolis, where there was “much -water,” and where he baptized “strangers,” and those who had failed -to attend his ministry at the river. His latter days were spent in -the north, and mostly in Tiberias, the royal city of Galilee, where, -true to his high calling, he reproved Herod Antipas for his connubial -infidelity, for which he was imprisoned and beheaded in the Castle of -Machaerus, near the scene of his earlier labors. - -The sun was rapidly approaching the zenith when we left the ford for -the Dead Sea. To avoid a detour, and also to shun the banks of the -river, which, from their softness and steepness, are never safe, we -crossed diagonally the great plain extending to the sea. The heat was -intense; not a breath of air was stirring; neither shrub nor flower -appeared to gladden the eye; no fountain was nigh to moisten our -parched lips. A deep purple haze veiled earth and sky, obscuring the -view of Moab and the peaks of Engedi; and over that vast plateau of -unrelieved desolation was spread a white sulphurous crust, reflecting -the light and heat. Near the mouth of the Jordan a band of Bedouin -ruffians were holding an ominous consultation, and keenly watching our -movements. From the head of the caravan came the shrill voice of the -sheikh to “close ranks,” while two soldiers dashed into the jungle -to ascertain the design of the council. Intimidating the robbers by -threats, they returned, assuring us that no attack would be made, but -advising us to keep close together. At noon we stood upon the northern -shore of the Dead Sea. Owing to the thick haze that obscured the -mountains, it seemed shoreless. The smooth waters lay like molten -silver, silent and motionless, sparkling in the sunlight and dazzling -to the sight. It was death robed in light. The waters are clear as -crystal and exceedingly brilliant, and, though intensely salt, they -are so soft that a bath in them is like bathing in oil. When midway -my person I began to rise, and yielding to the soft hands that bore -me up, I reclined as upon the softest down. To sink was impossible; to -float required no effort; to read, converse, sleep, was easy. Where the -cuticle was bruised or broken a smarting sensation was experienced, and -for ten hours after the bath the hair remained stiff and the body felt -as if it had been lubricated with oil. Gently sloping toward the sea, -the northern coast consists of sand and blackened pebbles, and over -its entire breadth are strewn quantities of drift-wood, such as willow -twigs, broken canes, and poplar branches, thrown up by the violence -of the waves when the sea is in commotion. Higher up is a terrace -of bitumen, soft and slippery, and not unlike black clay. Neither -shrub, flower, nor blade of grass, nor shell, can be found on all that -lengthened beach. - - Illustration: DEAD SEA. - -Occupying the lowest portion of the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea -is forty miles long, from five to nine wide, and from two to 1308 -feet deep. Its greatest depth is 2620 feet below the level of the -Mediterranean, and 5220 below the site of Jerusalem. Having its -greatest width midway the sea, from Ain Jidy to the River Arnon, it -is most shallow at its southern extremity, and deepest in its northern -section, southwest from the thermal waters of Callirrhoe. Not many -yards from the eastern cliffs it is more than one hundred and seventy -fathoms deep. - -Geologically considered, the profound cavity containing this inland sea -must be coeval with the conformation of the Jordan Valley on the north -and the Valley of ’Arabah on the south. This mighty chasm must always -have been the bed of a great lake, receiving the waters of the Jordan -and the mountain torrents, together with those of the living springs -which abound along the margin of the vale. Though much smaller then -than now, both Abraham and Lot must have looked down upon its waters. -Originally confined within its deeper bed, it has passed its primal -limits by some convulsion or atmospheric phenomena as yet unknown. The -great difference in its depth, from a third of a fathom to two hundred -and eighteen fathoms, together with the record of Moses that the -“plain of Jordan was well watered every where before the Lord destroyed -Sodom and Gomorrah, even as the garden of the Lord, like the land of -Egypt as thou comest unto Zoar,”[304] sufficiently indicates that the -more shallow portions now overflown were once the rich green fields -so tempting to the eyes of Lot.[305] According to authentic history, -this vale was one of the cradles of the earliest civilization, not -only containing the five royal cities that were destroyed, but also the -cities of the Phœnicians, who, afterward removing to Tyre and Sidon, -rose to greatness in art, science, and commerce. Its present desolation -is due to natural causes, some of which are still apparent, and though -its waters must always have been more or less salt, and its coasts must -always have abounded in bitumen pits, yet these are not inconsistent -with the richness of its plains, as attested by sacred and profane -writers. - -Though the receptacle of the perennial Jordan and of springs that -never fail, and though without an outlet its mighty caldron is never -filled to overflowing, and its waters have but a slight perceptible -rise and fall. Situated 1312 feet below the level of the Mediterranean, -and shut in by high barren mountains of limestone, its supply never -exceeds the demand made by its rapid evaporation. With the Gulf of -Akaba thirty-five feet above the Mediterranean, it is inconceivable how -the Dead Sea could ever have flowed southward over the plain of ’Arabah -to mingle its waters with those of the Red Sea; and this impossibility -is the more apparent from the fact that the waters of ’Arabah flow -into the Dead Sea from a water-shed midway between the two seas. Such -curious facts at once disprove the hypothesis either that there is a -subterranean outlet on the south, or that, prior to the fall of Sodom, -the waters of the Jordan flowed in a river channel through the “Vale of -Siddim” to mingle with those of the Indian Ocean. Evaporation was then, -as now, the only outlet. - -With the exception of a few semicircular plains, the “Salt Sea” covers -the entire breadth of the vale, in many places the mountains dipping -into the waters without a footpath along the shore. At the northwest -corner there is a neck of land extending into the lake, which, when -the water is low by increased evaporation, is a peninsula, but at high -water its extreme point is a small island, covered with ruins of great -antiquity, consisting of heaps of unhewn stones, some of which retain -their original position in the foundation of a building whose history -is unknown; and at the southeast angle of the sea, near the ravine of -Kerak, is a low, broad promontory or cape, extending four miles to the -north up the centre of the lake. Wherever a brackish fountain trickles -down the hill-side, and flows over those little plains formed by the -receding mountains, there shrubs grow, flowers bloom as in more genial -climes, birds sing sweetly as in more enchanting bowers, and the Arab, -with the traveler, pitches his tent, unaffected by the fancied deadly -exhalations from the poisonous sea, which only exist in the stories of -poet and romancer. - -The mountains that bound the Asphaltic Lake on the east and west -are as remarkable for their native grandeur as for their historic -associations. Those on the east are portions of the Moab and Edom -ranges; the one descending from the north and the other ascending -from the south, are separated midway the sea by the sublime chasm -of El-Môjib. The former is composed of sandstone, with sections of -limestone, and with dikes and seams of trap rock, over which are -scattered quantities of post-tertiary lava, pumice-stone, and volcanic -slag; the latter is in part sandstone with strata of limestone; while -at the extreme south there is a post-tertiary deposit of carbonate -of lime, with sandstone disintegrated, and with a mixture of sulphur -and gypsum. Rising from 2000 to 3000 feet high, the eastern range -is rugged and barren, and, from a peculiarity in the atmosphere, is -perpetually veiled in a purple haze. The sides are broken by twelve -ravines desolate and wild. Less than ten miles from the northeast angle -of the sea, at the mouth of Wady Zŭrka Ma’in, are the warm springs of -Callirrhoe, sending forth, between grand and lofty sandstone cliffs, a -copious stream, in whose thermal waters Herod the Great sought, in vain, -relief from his loathsome disease. It is twelve feet wide, ten inches -deep, and has a temperature of 95° Fahrenheit. Its banks are lined with -canes and tamarisks, and the pebbles are tinged with the sulphurous -waters. The chasm is 112 feet wide, and from eighty to 150 high, -through which the torrent sweeps to the sea at the rate of six knots an -hour. High up the ravine is a pretty cascade, with a perpendicular fall -of six feet, and below it the foaming waters rush over a succession -of rapids. In this sublime glen purple flowers bloom, and ravens -and butterflies wing their tireless flight. On the very brow of the -northern cliff stood the famous fortress of Machaerus, where John the -Baptist was beheaded.[306] Two miles to the south, on the borders of -a little streamlet, is a grove of thirty date-palm-trees; three miles -farther is a bright cascade, whose sparkling waters leap into the sea -from the very mountain summit; and five miles beyond is the ancient -river Arnon, on whose banks Balak met Balaam,[307] and which was the -southern boundary-line of the Amorites, whose dominion ran northward -to the Jabbok. This tract of land Moses conquered from Sihon,[308] and -for it the Ammonites fought with Jephthah[309] while it was possessed -by the tribes of Reuben and Gad.[310] The Arnon is a tributary to the -sea, eighty-two feet wide, four deep, and one hundred wide at its mouth. -The vast fissure through which it falls is ninety-seven feet wide, -and varies from 100 to 400 feet high. The cliffs are red, yellow, and -brown sandstone, and, worn by the winds and rains, resemble Egyptian -architecture. In graceful curves the ravine winds inward, and in its -profound depths are huge boulders, which have fallen from the summit -above. Along the border of the torrent a few shrubs grow, and gazelles -descend to drink of its limpid waters. Fifteen miles to the south, on -a summit 3000 feet above the sea, stands the ancient city of Kerak, -containing more than 3000 inhabitants, about equally divided into -Christians and Moslems, which is renowned in the history of Jewish -wars as the city whose king, in a moment of desperation, rather than -surrender to King Jehoram, offered up his eldest son upon the town wall -as a burnt-sacrifice, so disgusting the Israelites as to compel them -to raise the siege.[311] From the mountain of Kerak a wild ravine leads -down to the reputed ruins of Zoar, near the shore, to which Lot fled -when commanded to fly to the mountains above.[312] - -To the southwest from the ruins of Zoar stood Sodom and Gomorrah, -with their companion cities of the plain. Covering a large area of what -was once dry land, the sea is here exceedingly shallow, and the plains -bordering on the southern coast give evidence of their former fertility. -These cities must have occupied this section of the vale, or it would -have been impossible for Abraham to have seen the conflagration from -Hebron, sixteen miles to the northwest.[313] But not a vestige of -those renowned cities remains to designate the scene of their glory and -shame. The “rain of fire” was probably a shower of nitrous particles -ignited by the electric flash, which, as it fell, kindled to a flame -the buildings of the cities, constructed of bituminous stones and -cemented by green asphalt. Formed of such combustible materials, the -conflagration of the towns must have raged with unwonted fury, and the -descending fire, wrapping vale and mountain in a winding-sheet of flame, -must have precluded the possibility of escape. But the preservation -of Zoar amid the general burning was a miracle of the highest order. -Standing within the vale and hard by the neighboring towns, but -without the smell of fire about its dwellings, it must have presented -a singular spectacle, surrounded by an invisible wall against which the -burning waves madly dashed in vain. - -The mountains on the western side of the Dead Sea, like the hills of -Judea, are limestone, of a white, red, and yellow hue, and, rising from -1000 to 2000 feet high, their sides are barren and rugged, and broken -into wild ravines. At intervals the hills recede, forming on the shore -semicircular plains, which, being watered by brackish fountains, are -converted into salt marshes. Along the western coast large quantities -of pure sulphur, asphalt, and pumice-stone abound. In the southwest -corner of the vale, extending five miles to the northwest, is a rugged -ridge of hills composed entirely of mineral salt. From a marshy delta, -coated with salt and bitumen, a grand ravine leads up to this saline -ridge, called by the Arabs Jebel Usdum. The winter torrents have cut -deep furrows in its sides from summit to base, and the combined action -of the rains, and the burning siroccos that sweep over mountain and -plain, have rounded the faces of the cliffs. The peaks rise in tiers, -while their roots, in lesser hills, project toward the sea. Far up -the ravine, between two higher cliffs, is a lower ridge, not unlike a -pedestal, on which is a singular pillar of pure solid salt, round in -front and angular behind. Resting on a pedestal sixty feet high, the -solitary column rises forty feet higher, connected with the hill behind -by an immense bar of salt. This is the only resemblance to “Lot’s -wife” in the vale, but can not be her, as its position is in the wrong -direction from Zoar. But the presence of such a mountain of salt, whose -base beneath the surface is washed by the waves, and from whose summit -large blocks of salt are carried down by the rains into the water, -sufficiently accounts for the extreme saltness of the sea. On the -marshy flats at its base is the “Valley of Salt,” where David slew -“eighteen thousand Syrians,”[314] and where Amaziah, at a later period, -slew “ten thousand Edomites.”[315] - -Situated on the brow of a lofty cliff 1500 feet above the sea, and -twelve miles north from Usdum, is Masada, the last refuge of the Jews -after the destruction of Jerusalem by Titus, and the scene of the -noblest heroism and of the most bloody tragedy in the annals of war. -Separated by a deep ravine from the surrounding mountains on the north -and south, and attached to them on the west by a narrow ridge two -thirds its height, is a naked rock, having a perpendicular face toward -the sea, and rising 700 feet high. Standing two miles from the shore, -it is not unlike a pyramid in form. Though the summit is jagged and -peaked, it contains a level area for building purposes 3000 feet in -length and 1200 in width. Portions of four buildings are standing. On -the south are the remains of an ancient gateway with a pointed arch; -on the north stands a tower with a double wall of great strength, and -near it is a quadrangular ruin. Within the ancient wall, which once -completely encircled the rock, are three large cisterns, hewn in the -solid rock, and covered with white cement. The largest of them is forty -feet broad, 100 long, and fifty deep. Adjacent to the wall are the -remains of the old Roman camps, constructed by the besieging army of -Flavius Silva, apparently as complete as when abandoned centuries ago. - -Reared in the second century B.C. by Jonathan Maccabæus as a strong -defensive work, the fortress of Masada was enlarged and rendered -impregnable by Herod the Great. Designed by him at once for a palace -and a fortress, he strengthened the position, and connected with -his royal apartments baths, adorned with porticoes and colonnades. -Confident of its impregnability, here the Idumean king deposited his -rarest treasures against the day of danger. - -Prior to the fall of Jerusalem, the Sicarii, who had sworn never to -submit to the Roman arms, obtained by treachery the possession of this -fortress. Commanded by the bold and skillful Eleazar, 600 of these -patriots, with their wives, children, and servants to the number of -967, retired to Masada as the last refuge of the Jewish nation. The -strong-holds of Machaerus and Herodium had yielded to the powerful arms -of Lucilius Bassus, and now Flavius Silva, his successor, laid siege to -Masada. Cutting off all hope of succor from without, and of escape from -within, by circumvallation, the Romans reared for the intended assault -a mound of earth and stones, on which they planted an iron-cased -tower commanding the walls of the fortress, and from which they drove -the Jews from their ramparts. Successful in gaining a position so -advantageous, the Romans retired for the night with the intention of -storming the fortress the following morning. - - Illustration: MASADA. - -Conscious of his inability to continue a successful defense――convinced -that any attempt to escape would prove disastrous――satisfied that -death awaited the garrison, ravishment their wives, and slavery their -children, that night Eleazar called his faithful band around him, and -proposed self-destruction as the terrible alternative. Appalled by -the thought of murder and suicide, the heroic Sicarii, whose souls -had never known the sensation of fear, for a moment hesitated; but, -upbraided for the want of true courage by their leader, a frenzy seized -them, and, each one grasping his wife and children in his arms, after -lavishing upon them the fondest tokens of affection, they plunged their -daggers to their hearts, leaving the bleeding bodies lifeless upon -the ground. Resolved not to survive a calamity so insupportable, they -prepared for their own destruction. Gathering the immense treasures of -the palace together, they consigned them to the flames; then, choosing -by lot ten of their number to dispatch the rest, each soldier threw -himself down by his wife and children, and, grasping them in his arms, -offered his neck to the sword of his companion. Drawing lots who should -be the last survivor of the ten and the executioner of the nine, the -lot fell on one who in turn was to dispatch himself. The nine slain, -all the victims were examined to ascertain whether life was extinct; -then, applying the torch to the palace, and surveying for a moment -the raging flames and the dead, in families, stretched upon the ground, -he lay down beside his wife and child, and the last of the Sicarii -dispatched himself. - -The morning dawned; the command was given; the Romans rushed to the -assault; but, on scaling the ramparts, no foe appeared, no sound was -heard, and, lifting a shout of triumph, they rushed to the palace. -Their approach had startled from their retreat a sister of Eleazar, -an elderly woman, and five children, who, learning of the intended -slaughter, had secreted themselves in the vaults of the fortress. -When they refused to credit her story, the sister of Eleazar led the -conquerors within the court-yard of the palace, and pointed them to -the dead who were too brave to be Roman slaves.[316] - -Fifteen miles to the north from the Plain of Masada is the Fountain -of the Kid. This beautiful spring is four hundred feet up the mountain -side. Bursting from a limestone rock, and rushing down over precipitous -rocks, and amid acacias and flowers, it fertilizes a small plain -extending to the beach, and cultivated by the Bedouins of the Ghôr. -Near this fountain David was secreted when pursued by Saul, and in -a cave near by he “cut off the skirt of Saul’s robe privily.”[317] -Up this pass the children of Ammon ascended to attack Jerusalem in -the days of Jehoshaphat.[318] Originally celebrated for its vines -and aromatic plants, Solomon compares his beloved to a “cluster of -camphire[319] in the vineyards of Engedi.”[320] Around this fountain -now grow the “apples of Sodom.” The fruit grows in clusters upon a -tree fifteen feet high and two in girth, is of a yellow color, and has -such a blooming appearance as to tempt the traveler’s appetite; but, -on being pressed, it explodes like a puff-ball, leaving in the hand -nothing but the rind and a few dry fibres. - -On the summit of an adjacent hill are the ruins of Maon, the residence -of the churlish Nabal and his beautiful wife Abigail, and a mile to the -north is the large fountain where this “son of Belial” held his annual -feast, to whom David sent his famishing troops to ask permission to -enjoy the festival as a reward for services which he had previously -rendered to the ungrateful Nabal.[321] - -The shrill call of the Bedouin sheikh roused me from my reverie as -I sat on the small island in the sea recalling the past and receiving -imperishable impressions of the changeless features of the “Vale of -Siddim.” That night we were to sleep with the monks of Mâr Sâba, and -the journey thither was long, toilsome, and dangerous. Filling a can -with seawater, and gathering mineral specimens from the beach, we -mounted. The path lay across an undulating plain to the right of Ain -Jehâir, whose brackish waters nourish a thicket of canes and a few pale -flowers. Ascending the rugged pass of Nukb el-Kuneiterah, one skirted -for an hour the verge of a yawning ravine, the precipitous sides of -which were as dangerous as the view below was grand and awful. Reaching -in less than two hours the summit of the highest ridge, the Wilderness -of Engedi lay before us, and through openings in the distant cliffs we -caught farewell glimpses of the Dead Sea. Passing an encampment where -the children were nude and the women unveiled, we were glad to drink -of Arab _leben_, or soured milk, a beverage similar to that which -Jael gave Sisera,[322] which was brought to us in a goatskin bottle. - -Descending hills gray and barren, and crossing verdureless plains, -we reached the Vale of the Kidron as the last rays of the sun were -tipping the higher peaks of Moab. Wild and grand, the perpendicular -sides of the gorge are more than 300 feet high. The limestone rocks -are blackened with age, and perched on the highest portion of the -ridge is the famous Convent of Mâr Sâba. Approaching night had now -thrown a deeper shadow in the ravine below; the skies reflected subdued -light, and from the transparent blue the stars began to shine. The -fatigue of the day had left the mind pensive, and the silence of the -hour was unbroken except by the chirping of some invisible songster. -Winding round the brow of a bold cliff, the gray towers of the ancient -monastery stood out against the evening sky, and from the uppermost -turret a solitary monk in dark flowing robes was watching our approach. -The ponderous iron gate of the convent was thrown open, and, led by -one of the fraternity through an interior court-yard, where orange and -lemon trees scattered their rich perfume, we entered the “Pilgrim’s -Room.” - -Like many other religious establishments, the monastery of St. Sâba -rose from the devotion of a single hermit. Attracted by the solitude of -the spot and the wild grandeur of the situation, some time in the year -483 A.D., St. Sâba, a native of Cappadocia, and a man of extraordinary -sanctity, founded the convent which bears his name. His triumph over -the “Lion of the Kidron” attracted his fellow-anchorites to the glen, -to the number of 14,000, to share his glory and devotion. From the -cells which they excavated in the rocks gradually rose the walls, -towers, chambers, and chapels of the edifice; and so curiously are -the several parts arranged, that it is difficult to determine the -masonry from the native rock. Crowned with a dome and clock-turret, the -church stands on the brink of the highest cliff, supported by enormous -buttresses rising from the bed of the Kidron. The interior is after the -Byzantine order, adorned with pictures, ornamental lamps, and sacred -banners. Near the church is the charnel-house, where the bones of the -pious have been carefully preserved from the time of the patron saint -to the last brother deceased. The bodies of the dead are deposited in -vaults till the flesh has wasted away, when the skeleton is broken to -pieces, and the bones are piled up in ghastly array, arm with arm, leg -with leg, skull with skull. - - Illustration: CONVENT OF SANTA SABA. - -Though enlarged and beautified by monkish industry, the cave in which -St. Sâba lived still retains its native rudeness. Among the pictures -which adorn the walls is one representing the beheading of John the -Baptist. The artist has transferred to the canvas the horror of the -murder and the turpitude of the crime which led to the execution. In -the background is seen the martyr’s cell, with barred window and iron -door. Robed in green garments, the headless body of John lies prostrate -upon the marble pavement, while over it stands the fierce executioner, -holding in one hand his sword still dripping with blood, and in the -other the bleeding head. With an air of triumphant revenge Salome is -approaching, attired in ermine and adorned with a coronet of jewels, -and bearing on her hands a charger to receive the dissevered head of -the faithful minister of truth and purity. - -The morning was far advanced when the iron gates of Mâr Sâba opened -for our departure. The day was charming, and the ride to Bethlehem was -one of extraordinary delight. The spring clouds, like softest gauze, -screened us from the otherwise burning rays of a Syrian sun, and a -gentle breeze from the Mediterranean came over the hills of Judea -“fresh as the breath of morn.” It being early spring-time, Nature -smiled in all her virgin beauty. Grasses and grains were ripening; -flowers every where were in bloom; herds of cattle and flocks of sheep -were feeding on the hills, and high up in mid air three eagles screamed -as they soared above us. - -In an hour from the monastery Jerusalem was seen to the north, and -half an hour beyond I for the first time saw Bethlehem nestling among -the Judæan hills. A flood of childhood’s memories rushed back to mind, -unsealing the fountain of emotion as when in boyhood I was accustomed -to read the story of the new-born King. On the south lay the Plains of -Bethlehem, where shepherds were watching their flocks――some chanting -a pastoral song, others playing upon their rude flute. The sterility -of the wilderness had given place to cultivated fields, and along the -wayside grew a pretty blue flower, of a stellar form, called by the -monks the “Star of Bethlehem.” Passing through the small village of -Beit Sahûr, we turned westward, and, ascending a well-made road, in -half an hour we passed beneath the ancient portal of the City of the -Nativity. The streets were crowded with people, and along the main -thoroughfare were merchants selling fruits, flowers, grains, vegetables, -cutlery, saddlery, clothing, furniture, and ornaments, and mechanics of -all kinds were pursuing their respective vocations. - - Illustration: VIEW OF BETHLEHEM. - -So long as childhood continues, Bethlehem will be cherished by the -young, and recalled with delight by those of riper years. The synonym -of helpless infancy, mothers will revert to it with hope, and the -children of each generation will claim it as their common heritage. -As here the young mother pressed her tender offspring to her bosom -for the first time, Bethlehem must ever remain the symbol of domestic -affections and privacies. - -Originally called “The House of Bread,” and now “The House of Flesh,” -its Arabic name, Beit Lahm, contains the significance of its wondrous -history. To distinguish it from Bethlehem belonging to the tribeship -of Zebulun,[323] it is called by the sacred historian “Bethlehem of -Judah;”[324] to preintimate its fruitfulness, it was prophetically -designated Ephratah;[325] to illustrate its rising glory “among the -thousands of Judah,” it was announced as the birthplace of Him “whose -goings forth have been from of old.”[326] In antiquity coeval with the -oldest cities in the world, its identity is unquestioned. Stretching -backward thirty-six centuries, its authentic history opens with the -mournful death and burial of the beautiful Rachel;[327] and rendered -imperishable by the sepulchral monument to that beloved wife, 600 years -later it was the scene of the touching story of Boaz and the youthful -widow of Chilion.[328] Giving birth to Obed, the father of Jesse, -Bethlehem, less than 100 years subsequent to the marriage of Ruth and -Boaz, was the birthplace of David,[329] where, at the tender age of -seventeen, he was anointed king over Israel; and, in honor of events so -illustrious, it thereafter was called the “City of David.” During the -reverses which befell Saul of Gibeah it was captured by the Philistines, -and David, having been declared a public enemy, was compelled to fly to -the cave of Adullam. - -After 1000 years of comparative oblivion, Bethlehem suddenly emerged -from obscurity into brighter and more enduring glory. Summoned by the -Emperor Augustus to their native city to be taxed, Joseph and Mary -came from the hills of Nazareth, and, reaching the town at the close -of the day, after a journey of eighty miles, the mother of the Messiah -was compelled to lodge in the stable, “because there was no room for -them in the inn.”[330] That night the Prince of Peace was born; the -race commenced its life anew; angels sang the song of the nativity; -wondering shepherds hastened to pay homage to the new-born King; a lone -but marvelous star arrested the attention of the magi of Arabia Felix; -and Bethlehem rose to be “greatest among the thousands of Judah.” - -An event so great and memorable has rendered the city of the Savior’s -birth a holy shrine, at which the devout of all ages and countries -have bowed with unspeakable delight. And, in commemoration of the -event, and to rescue the site from oblivion, the Emperor Constantine, -in the commencement of the fourth century, ordered the erection of a -magnificent basilica over the “Grotto of the Nativity,” which is now -the oldest monument of Christian architecture in the world. Separated -from the town by a long esplanade, the church occupies the eastern brow -of the hill on which the city is built, and, together with the three -convents abutting from its sides, forms an enormous pile of limestone, -vast in dimensions, irregular in outline, and, though it is destitute -of external architectural grandeur, the size, strength, and commanding -position of the edifice render it the chief attraction of the place. -The Greeks, Latins, and Armenians hold joint possession of the basilica, -and adjoining it are the monasteries for the entertainment and devotion -of their respective orders. - -It was late one evening in the month of April that I rapped for -admission at the iron door of the Latin convent. The Franciscans -received me kindly, and, after a generous meal, an aged monk led me to -my apartments for the night. The convent bell called me early from my -slumbers, and, ascending to the broad, flat roof of the monastery, I -enjoyed an extensive view of the surrounding country. The sky was soft, -the air pure, and the sun was just rising above the mountains of Moab. -The shepherd’s shrill voice mingled with the tinkling of bells as he -led his flock in search of pasture, and the leaves of orange, fig, and -olive trees shone like jewels as the dew-drops thereon reflected the -morning light. Far away to the east are the Plains of the Jordan, the -mountains of Gilead, Moab, Ammon, and Seir; on the north the Hills -of Judea are bleak; on the west they are green as far as the eye can -reach toward the “Great Sea;” on the south are the Gardens of Urtâs and -the Pools of Solomon. With a mind attuned by such a scene, I read the -romantic story of Ruth and Boaz, the history of David’s coronation, and -the more tender narrative of the Savior’s birth. The past returned with -all the reality of the present, and history repeated its wondrous deeds -before the eye of a sublime faith. But the charm was broken in a moment -by the chant of a funeral dirge. Just beneath me, and near the convent -wall, a long procession of women was approaching, following to its -final rest the lifeless form of some daughter of Bethlehem. It was a -singular hour for a burial. Except the men who bore the corpse, there -were no others present. Fifty women robed in white gathered about the -grave, and, as a symbol of the abundant happiness of departed spirits, -each one bore upon her head a basket of bread, and, leaving it upon the -tomb, they all retired. - -Descending through the long halls of the monastery, we found the -monks differently engaged; some were arranging their scanty toilets, -others repeating their prayers. On each door is a rude picture -illustrating the faith of the inmate, and the subject he desired to -be most frequently reminded of. On one is a coffin; on another are the -lambent flames of Purgatory; but on most is the serene face of Mary. -My guide rejoined me in the hall of the refectory, and led me to the -stable of blessed memory. Passing through the Latin chapel, where a -priest was celebrating mass, we descended a flight of narrow winding -steps, cut in the native rock, at the foot of which is the sacred -grotto. Thirty-eight feet long, eleven wide, and two deep, it has -the appearance of having been the cellar of a Syrian house, which, -according to a custom still prevalent, serves as a stable. Near the -eastern end is the supposed place of our Lord’s birth, marked by a -white marble slab, in the centre of which is a large silver star, -encircled with an inscription in Latin, “Here Jesus Christ was born -of the Virgin Mary.” Sixteen silver lamps shed a perpetual light upon -the shrine; from golden censers incense unceasingly ascends, while -the walls are covered with silk embroidered with gold. To the south is -the substituted manger, the original having been carried to Rome and -deposited in the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Above it is a fine -picture of the birth-scene by Maello, and near it is a better one of -the Magi. A narrow passage leads to the small grotto where Joseph is -said to have stood at the moment our Lord was born, and in it is a -picture representing the angel warning him to take the young child and -his mother and escape into Egypt. The angel’s face is expressive of -intense earnestness; the countenance of Joseph is calm and thoughtful; -while Mary tenderly but firmly clasps her infant to her bosom. - - Illustration: CAVE OF THE NATIVITY. - -Following a glimmering light, we entered a large sepulchral vault -containing the dust of the departed members of the fraternity, and -from it passed to the “altar of the infant martyrs” slain by Herod. A -picture above it commemorates the death of “twenty thousand innocents,” -and the old monk groaned as he looked upon it. In an adjoining oblong -chamber are altars dedicated to the memory of St. Paula and her -daughter Eustachia, two eminent Roman ladies, who spent their days -here in charity and devotion; and near the altars are their tombs, over -which are the portraits of the saints. Their features are represented -as sharp, their expression pensive, and over their heads an angel holds -a wreath of glory. Not far from these sepulchres is the tomb of Jerome, -and in the north end of the same chamber is the study of that eminent -scholar. Here, in a cell twenty feet square and nine deep, around which -runs a stone seat, he spent most of his life, producing those great -works which have given immortality to his name. Here, in the severities -of monastic life, he smote his body with a stone while imploring the -mercy of the Lord. It was here he fancied he heard the peals of the -trump of the last judgment incessantly ringing in his ear. On the wall -hangs a portrait of this great man. The head is round and bald, the -face beams with intelligence, by his side hangs a crucifix, and behind -him stands an angel sounding in his ear the trumpet of the last day. - -Reascending the narrow staircase, we passed into the magnificent -Basilica of St. Helena. In length 120 feet by 110 wide, the interior -consists of a central nave and four lateral aisles, formed by four rows -of twelve Corinthian columns in each row, twenty feet high and two and -a half in diameter, supporting a horizontal architrave. According to -tradition, these pillars were taken from the porches of the Temple at -Jerusalem. Originally the roof and rafters were formed of cedar from -the forests of Lebanon, but at present they are of oak, the gift of -King Edward IV. when the church was last repaired. The gold, marble, -and mosaics which once adorned the walls of this noble edifice have -been removed, and by the mutual jealousies of the rival sects this -grandest of Eastern basilicas is in a neglected state. The aspect of -the interior is greatly injured by a partition wall separating the -choir from the body of the church, which in turn is divided into two -chapels, one belonging to the Greeks and the other to the Armenians; on -the north side of the choir is the Chapel of St. Catharine, occupied by -the Latins. - - Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY. - -Though we reject the unwarrantable grouping together in a single -grotto of so many “holy places” as unfounded in fact, and especially -the particular spot where Christ was born, there is no reason for the -rejection of the cave itself. Its history runs too far back to have its -identity affected by the flood of monastic legends which followed the -conversion of the empire, and the historical chain is unbroken from the -death of the Apostle John to our own day. A native of Nablous, and born -in the beginning of the second century, Justin Martyr describes the -birthplace of Jesus “as a grotto in Bethlehem;” one hundred years later, -Origen refers to the fact as recognized by Christians and pagans; and, -a century after him, Eusebius mentions it as an accepted traditional -spot, and as so regarded prior to the time of St. Helena’s visit. -Crediting the tradition, the mother of Constantine caused to be erected -the present basilica in the year 327 A.D., and fifty years after its -erection, Jerome of Dalmatia, with Paul and Eustachia, settled in -Bethlehem, where the great “Father of Church History” expired, in -420 A.D., in his ninetieth year. Though the city fell into the hands -of the Moslems at a later period, and the church was stripped of its -ornaments, yet the cave remained undisturbed; and, on their approach to -Jerusalem, the Crusaders retook Bethlehem, and in 1110 A.D., Baldwin I. -elevated it to the dignity of an episcopal see; and, notwithstanding -the vicissitudes through which it has passed, it is now a thoroughly -Christian town. Unlike the tradition identifying our Lord’s tomb, the -traditional history of his birthplace is unmixed with monkish miracles, -and the preservation of the site is as simple as it is natural. - -In a land where the customs of the people never change, all the -incidents of the story of the birth of the Savior are confirmed by -modern usage. It is no evidence of the poverty of Joseph and Mary that -they failed to obtain lodgings in the inn, as the decree of Augustus -had called home all citizens belonging to the town, which, being small, -was filled to overflowing; nor is it proof of the humbleness of the -holy family that they were compelled to lodge in the stable, as to this -day, both in Bethlehem and in other Syrian cities, kitchen, parlor, -and stable are frequently under the same roof, and often without a -partition between them. In going from Jerusalem to Nablous, I stopped -with a Christian at Beeroth, near Bethel. His dwelling was a one-story -house. Within was a raised platform not two feet high, on which was -arranged the furniture of his home; at the foot of the platform was -a space four feet wide, and extending the whole depth of the building, -which was the stable, and in one corner stood his ass. And in a -neighboring house a woman was kneading dough on the platform, and a -little girl was holding an infant, and two feet from them stood the ass, -with his elongated head thrust into a stone manger excavated in the -solid rock. This order of domestic architecture throws light upon the -apparent discrepancies of Matthew and Luke. The former mentions a house -in connection with our Lord’s birth;[331] the latter a manger, thereby -supposing a stable.[332] But the historians refer to two distinct -events――St. Luke, to the night of the Savior’s birth; St. Matthew, to -the visit of the Magi, which occurred some time later. Mary and her son -may then have found room in the inn; or, if the visit of the wise men -was simultaneous with that of the shepherds, St. Matthew alludes to a -house with a stable under the same roof, and the entrance to which was -through the main door of the dwelling. - -Bethlehem may be viewed with a pleasing confidence as the city where -“God was manifested in the flesh,” and that from a place so humble -influences have gone forth affecting the present condition and future -hopes of the entire race. Since that wondrous child was born, empires -have passed away and generations have descended to the grave. Of that -renowned empire, whose proud emperor summoned Mary to perform a journey -of eighty miles in the rains of December, not a fragment remains; and -of the Herods who waylaid his infancy and persecuted his manhood, not -a descendant reigns over an inch of the broad earth. But the kingdom -of Christ endures, his subjects people both hemispheres, and the song -of the Bethlehem songsters is yet to be the anthem of a redeemed world. - -The situation of Bethlehem is peculiar. Located on a narrow ridge -projecting eastward from the central mountain range, and breaking down -in the form of terraced slopes, it is bounded on the east, north, and -south by deep valleys. Constructed of white limestone, well built, -square in form, and crowned with small domes, the buildings rise above -each other in somewhat regular gradations. The streets are few and -narrow, and though the city is not surrounded with a wall, it has -two gates, which are closed at night. Sweeping in graceful curves -around the ridge, and regular in their ascent as stairs, the well-kept -terraces are adorned with the vines of Eshcol, and with fig and -olive-trees. Extending from the base of the hill toward the south and -east are the fertile plains where Ruth gleaned, and where the glory of -the Lord shone around the peaceful shepherds. - -Numbering over three thousand souls, the modern Bethlehemites are -superior in their appearance to the citizens of any other town in -Palestine. The men are of light complexion, with finely developed -forms, and, in their affable demeanor and noble bearing toward the -“stranger within their gates,” are not unworthy descendants of Boaz. -In the regularity of their features, the freshness of their complexion, -and the sweetness of their countenance, the women are not unlike those -of America; and as if the Savior had bequeathed the beauty of his -childhood to the children of his native city, they are exceedingly -fair. So thoroughly Christian in sentiment are the inhabitants, -that no Moslem is allowed a residence within the town. The Cross is -unrivaled by the Crescent, and Christ reigns supreme where he was born. -While most of the people are either peasants or shepherds, others are -the manufacturers of “pious wares,” such as beads, crosses, rings, -crucifixes, and models of the Holy Sepulchre, wrought out of olive-wood -and mother-of-pearl. - -Five miles to the southeast from Bethlehem is Herodium, the tomb -of Herod the Great. Cherishing an ambition that knew no bounds, and -rivaling Solomon in the magnificence of his reign and in the splendor -of the cities of his kingdom, Herod sought renown in life by the power -of his name and the perpetuity of his fame in death, by rearing for -himself a mausoleum which he vainly hoped would have continued complete -to the latest generation. Conscious of the vicissitudes to which his -empire city was subject, and knowing that as he himself had rifled the -sepulchre of David, his in turn might be plundered, he prepared for -himself a tomb of great strength, far from human habitation. A ride -of more than an hour brought us to the grave of this most execrable of -monarchs. Being the last position held by the Crusaders after the fall -of Jerusalem, the hill bears the traditional name of “Frank Mountain;” -but, from the supposed luxurious life of Herod, the Arabs call it Jebel -Fureidis, or “Little Paradise Hill.” Josephus, however, designates -it Herodium, after the founder of the city which crowned its summit. -According to him, it is sixty stadia from Jerusalem, and was designed -by Herod to be a military outpost, protecting the inhabitants of the -inland towns from the depredations of the Bedouins of Engedi, and -also to serve as a palatial retreat for the king and his court. Having -subserved the double purpose of war and pleasure, it at length fell -before the powerful arms of Lucilius Bassus.[333] - - Illustration: TOMB OF HEROD THE GREAT――HERODIUM. - -Rising in the form of a truncated cone 400 feet from the crest of a -round isolated ridge, it resembles, when viewed from the plain below, -some grand catafalco. The ascent is up a circular path, and the view -from the summit imposing. Through openings in the cliffs the Dead Sea -is seen to the east; two miles to the southwest is the small town of -Tekoa, the home of the wise woman whom Joab called to plead before -David in behalf of Solomon,[334] and the birthplace of the Prophet -Amos;[335] and to the northwest are the white walls and domes of -Bethlehem. At its northern base is a reservoir 200 feet square, from -the centre of which rises a mound of earth like an island in a lake, -and near it are traces of the aqueduct, which conveyed the water from -a great distance. The summit is an area 750 feet in circumference, -surrounded by a ruined wall of large hewn stones, with a massive square -tower at each angle. Within this inclosure are many vaults, and the -walls of what appears to have been an amphitheatre. The latter is in -the form of a three-quarter circle, and on the south side are three -large blocks of limestone, so arranged as to suggest the idea that -they were the royal seats from which Herod and his courtiers beheld -the dramatic and equestrian feats so pleasing to Oriental kings. To -the northwest of this structure is a large vault, which I succeeded in -entering by creeping through a narrow opening. The roof is a beautiful -raised dome, with a circular keystone in the centre, and on the sides -are doors leading to other chambers. On the very summit of the hill is -the Tomb of Herod. It is a vaulted chamber of hewn limestone, fifteen -feet long, twelve wide, and ten deep. Dying at Jericho, the royal -monster was here interred, amid the scene of his crimes and folly. -Profound silence now reigns where once the noise of revelry was heard, -and, unhonored and unlamented, the dust of the proud Idumean is trodden -by the foot of the transient traveler and the wild Arabs of Engedi, -while in sight of his sepulchre the domes and towers of the city in -which he sought to slay the “young child” rise up toward the throne -of the world’s Redeemer as the monuments of the birthplace of Him who -“liveth for evermore.” - -One of the wildest, roughest roads in Palestine leads from Herodium to -the Cave of Adullam, where David and his men were secreted when pursued -by Saul, and where “every one that was in distress, and every one that -was in debt, and every one that was discontented, gathered themselves -unto him, and he became a captain over them, and there were with him -about four hundred men.”[336] From this cave his three “mighty men” -broke through the lines of the Philistines who garrisoned Bethlehem, -and, drawing water from the well that David loved so much, and which -still exists, brought it in triumph to their chief;[337] and from here -he took his parents across the Jordan, to place them in the care of his -kinsmen of Moab.[338] - -Descending over ledges of rocks to the bottom of a deep ravine, dry -and barren, and walled in by perpendicular mountains 1000 feet high, -we found ourselves in one of the grandest gorges in the Wilderness -of Judea, where the solitude is unbroken by human habitation. In the -face of the rocks are vast caverns, partly excavated by the winds and -partly by the band of robbers whose dens they were. Winding round rocky -projections and crossing wilder ravines, we reached at noon the foot -of the ascent of the opposite mountain range, in the side of which, -400 feet above us, was the cave of Adullam. Compelled by the intense -heat and the impossibility of finding a path to leave our horses, we -advanced single file, now leaping yawning gulfs, now clambering over -smooth-faced rocks, and again skirting some dangerous precipice. - -It was past noon when the advanced guide cried out “Kureitûn!” In front -of the cave were three immense boulders, over whose smooth slanting -sides only goats could apparently pass; but we had endured too much -to be thwarted by such obstacles. One leap brought us flat upon the -first rock, another on the second, a third into the mouth of the cave. -Turning round, I looked down upon a scene of complete desolation. -No mountain pine waved its green foliage as in Alpine solitudes; no -waterfall delighted the ear with its music; no feathered songster -awakened the slumbering echoes of the glen. Entering the cave through -a passage-way six feet high, four wide, and thirty long, but which soon -contracted to such dimensions as to compel us first to stoop and then -to creep, we at length found ourselves in the hiding-place of David. -Owing to the curve in the entrance, no sunlight ever penetrates this -dismal abode. Lighting our candles, we began to explore. We found -the interior divided into chambers, halls, galleries, and dungeons, -connected by intricate passage-ways. The chief hall is 120 feet -long and fifty wide; the ceiling is high and arched, ornamented with -pendents resembling stalactites, and from the walls extend sharp -projections, on which the ancient warriors hung their arms. The effect -was grand as our tapers revealed each irregular arch, graceful pendent, -and sharp projection, giving the whole the appearance of a grand Gothic -hall. Lateral passages radiate in every direction from this chamber, -but ultimately converge in a central room. Threading one by one these -labyrinthian alleys, I became separated from the guide, and felt no -little trepidation till I heard him respond to my call. The darkness -and silence were oppressive, and the seclusion and intricacies of the -cave would have baffled any attempt of Saul to capture the object of -his pursuit. From the side of the first chamber we reached a pit ten -feet deep, and from it a low, narrow alley, 210 feet long, leads to -another hall, the inner _sanctum_, where David held his secret councils. -On the walls are the names of a few explorers, and among them that of -a romantic Irish lady. Though this appeared to be the end of the great -cave, yet the guide spoke of a secret passage to Tekoa and Hebron. - -The only difficulty in identifying this cave with the one David -occupied is the fact that two Adullams are mentioned in the Bible――one -on the borders of Philistia, and the other among the cities of Judea. -A hundred feet above the cavern are the ruins of a city, probably the -site of the Judæan Adullam, from which the cave takes its name. And -three scriptural facts seem to place the question beyond dispute: -David’s escape from Gath,[339] the reception of his father’s house, -[340] and the draught of water which his “mighty men” obtained for him -at the peril of their lives,[341] all of which favor this location -rather than the one in an enemy’s country. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - En Route for Hebron. ―― Travelers. ―― Beautiful Scenery. ―― - Ancient Travelers. ―― Evening. ―― Gray’s Elegy. ―― Search - for Lodgings. ―― Hebron. ―― Its Name. ―― Origin. ―― Home of - Abraham. ―― History. ―― Location of the City and its Environs. - ―― Pools. ―― Cave of Machpelah. ―― The Mosque over it. ―― - Tombs of the Patriarchs and their Wives. ―― Prince of Wales. - ―― Isaac still Lives. ―― Identity of the Cave. ―― Evidence. - ―― United in Death. ―― Beersheba. ―― Its ancient Wells. ―― - Events of the Past. ―― Changeless Customs. ―― Abraham and the - Angels. ―― Dining with an Arab Sheikh. ―― Grapes of Eshcol. ―― - Abraham’s Oak. ―― Ruins. ―― Pool of Solomon. ―― His Aqueduct. - ―― Plains of Rephaim. - - -IT was four o’clock, one Friday afternoon in the month of March, when -we issued from the western portal of Bethlehem on our way to Hebron. -We had dined at a small German inn within the town, and from the -proprietor I had obtained a spirited horse, though at an exorbitant -price. The descent from the hill on which the city stands is rapid and -difficult. In less than half an hour we reached the Pools of Solomon, -but the day was too far advanced to examine them with care. Many -travelers were on their way to northern cities, some on camels, some on -asses, some on foot. Salutations were exchanged as we passed each other, -and their appearance indicated both kindness and thrift. The men were -attired in loose flowing robes, with sandals and turbans; the women in -blue garments, and a white sheet enveloping their person; a thin veil -was drawn closely around the lower part of the face, just above which -their black lustrous eyes were peering. It was a strange sight to an -American to see men riding and women walking; but in the land of Sarah, -Rachel, and Mary, where the highest honor ever bestowed upon our race -was conferred upon a woman, her degradation is no less true than sad. - -Beyond the Pools the country rapidly improved in fertility and beauty. -Though hilly, the land was not mountainous; and though the relative -position of hill and valley was not regular, yet this confusion added -interest to the scene. The vales were green with grains and grasses; -the hills were covered with groves of fruit-trees; and along the -highway were wells and fountains of cool water. As we advanced the -scenery became picturesque. Now the valleys ran tortuously between -the mountains; now ridges of Jura limestone rose on either hand; -now dwarfed oaks and wild flowers covered hill and vale, while every -where were visible ancient terraces and ruined towers, the evidence of -former cultivation and of a larger population. But the pleasures of the -journey were lessened by the condition of the roads, which were crooked -and uneven, broken and stony. Sections of the old Roman highway remain, -but by the neglect of twelve centuries this once famous road, over -which the Roman chariot rolled, has been so damaged that those “royal -road-makers” would now disown it as the work of their hands. Yet even -an inconvenience so great was forgotten in the recollection that over -this same road Abraham had passed with Isaac to the Land of Moriah, -Jacob had fled from the face of Esau, David had ridden in triumph to -Jerusalem, and the Holy Family had hastened to Egypt to escape the -murdering minions of Herod. - -The day was far gone as we neared the home of the Patriarchs. The sun -was fast sinking into the blue waters of the Mediterranean; the Hebron -Hills were casting their lengthening shadows over the vineyards of -Eshcol, and the wild flowers, blooming along the path, were closing -their tiny petals “beneath the kisses of night.” It was such an hour -and such a scene as the plaintive bard has embalmed in immortal verse: - - “The lowing herd winds slowly o’er the lea, - The plowman homeward plods his weary way, - And leaves the world to darkness and to me. - - * * * * * - - “Now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight, - And all the air a solemn stillness holds, - Save where the beetle wheels his droning flight, - And drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds.”[342] - - Illustration: HEBRON. - -A solitary light shone from the minaret of Hebron as we entered its -ancient portal. “Strangers in a strange land,” we sat down upon the -stone pavement, waiting the return of our dragoman, whom, in the -absence of a hotel, we had dispatched to search for lodgings in a -private dwelling. Weary and hungry, we waited till nine o’clock for -his return, being closely watched by the Hebronites, and, in turn, we -watched the progress of a little courtship between a pretty Jewess and -a young Israelite――she coquettishly peeping through a latticed window, -he standing beneath it, catching the smiles and accents of love. - -A Polish Jew had been persuaded to receive us into his house, but as -it was Friday night, the beginning of the Jewish Sabbath, the family -refused to prepare us food, or do any thing for our comfort which -required work. Our host’s name was Jonah, a most unpromising fact. -According to the style of Polish Jews, he wore yellow robes trimmed -with fur, and a high round fur cap. His wife was elegantly attired, and -was a person of more than ordinary beauty, which was not true of the -other ladies of the family. Their house was near the Cave of Machpelah, -and built of gray limestone. The room we occupied was in the second -story; the ceiling was arched, and on the sides of the apartment was a -raised platform, which served us as a couch. We had eaten nothing since -we left Bethlehem; our host’s religion would not allow him to relieve -our hunger, and, while we sent for a little Mohammedan maid to prepare -the meal, I thought on our Lord’s parable of the ass in a ditch on the -Sabbath-day. - -Hebron comes from Kirjath-Arba――city of Arba――from Arba, who was -father of Anak, and progenitor of the giants called Anakims. At a -later period it received the name of Mamre, in honor of Mamre, the -Amorite, the friend and ally of Abraham. It now bears the Arabic name -of El-Khulêl, “The Friend of God,” evidently referring to the “Father -of the Faithful.” Hebron is older than the oldest authentic history. -According to Moses, Hebron was built seven years before Zoan in -Egypt.[343] But when was Zoan built? Seven years after Hebron! This -indefinite answer leaves us to infer that Hebron is among the oldest -cities in the world, having a greater antiquity than Damascus. Though -its earliest history is obscure, its identity with the home of the -patriarchs is unquestioned. Subsequently to his separation from Lot at -Bethel, Abraham pitched his tent on the Plains of Mamre.[344] Hither -came the fugitive from the battle of the kings, and informed him of the -capture of his nephew.[345] From these peaceful pasture-fields he went -forth with 318 trained servants, born in his own house, and, pursuing -the victors unto Dan, there retook his relative.[346] It was here, -while sitting in his tent door, as old men are accustomed now to sit, -that three angels in human form came to his tent, one to promise him a -son, the others to pass on and destroy the “cities of the plain;”[347] -and, ascending the eastern hill early the next morning, he saw the -smoke of the country that went up as the smoke of a furnace.[348] Here, -in harmony with the renewal of a covenant previously formed, and in -obedience to the Lord’s command, he and all the males of his house -were circumcised. Here is the scene of the unhappy story of Hagar and -Ishmael,[349] and, years later, of the birth of Isaac. Here Sarah died, -and in the cave of Machpelah Abraham interred his beloved wife.[350] -Years after, the prince of patriarchs was laid by her side; and, in the -termination of generations, Isaac and Rebecca,[351] Leah and Jacob,[352] -descended to this abode of death. Two and a half centuries subsequent -to the demise of Jacob, the good Caleb rested in peace and honor in -Hebron;[353] and, 400 years later, David here inaugurated a long and -prosperous reign, and held his court during seven and a half years.[354] -But in less than 1000 years thereafter the home of the patriarchs and -the seat of royalty became the theatre of the most horrid tragedies of -war. Here, beside the graves of their fathers, and beneath the noble -oaks on the ancestral plain, thousands of Jewish captives were brought -from Jerusalem by the victorious Romans and sold into slavery. - -Having an elevation of 28,000 feet above the sea, the modern town of -Hebron is beautifully situated in the Valley of Eshcol. Extending north -and south, and spreading out over the slopes of the neighboring hills, -the city is divided by gardens into two sections, the main portion -lying on the eastern slope, surmounted by the lofty wall of the Haram. -To the north, on the declivities of the western hills, is a large -cemetery. The graves of ordinary persons are marked by a circle of -stones, while the tombs of distinguished individuals are designated -by heaps of small stones, thrown together by friends and admirers to -perpetuate their memory. The hills that bound the city on the east -and west are not high, but graceful and rolling. To the northwest they -are thickly covered with olive-groves, orchards of fruit-trees, and -vineyards, each with a watch-tower for shelter and protection. There -is nothing in the architecture of the town to awaken admiration. Like -the buildings in the suburbs of Damascus, the dwellings are of gray -limestone, with flat roofs, and surmounted by one or two domes. Unlike -Jerusalem, the city has no walls, though at the entrance of the chief -thoroughfares there are gates, which are closed at night, and carefully -guarded during the day. The streets are nothing more than paved -alleys, and would be vastly improved by an occasional cleansing. -Though subject to Mohammedan control, Hebron is a thoroughly Jewish -city. The population is estimated at 10,000, 500 of whom are Polish -Jews. There is not a resident Christian in Hebron. The citizens live -by cultivating fruit-groves and vineyards; by a small mercantile trade; -and by the manufacture of water skin-bottles and colored glass trinkets, -such as rings and bracelets, which find a ready market among this -simple-hearted people. - -In a country where water is scarce, and the mechanical art is in a -rude condition, the pools and fountains of the wiser and more opulent -ancients are preserved with care. The traveler is therefore not -surprised to find himself standing beside fountains as old as the reign -of David. In the southern part of the vale, where the buildings stretch -across the valley from east to west, is the pool over which were hanged -the murderers of Ishbosheth.[355] It is a square tank, solidly built -of large hewn stones, measuring 130 feet on each side and fifty deep; -and in the northern section of the town there is another reservoir, -eighty-five feet long, fifty-five broad, and eighteen deep. - -But the chief attraction in Hebron, alike to the Christian, the Jew, -and the Moslem, is the cave of Machpelah, now bearing the Arabic name -of El-Khulîl――“The Friend of God.” Approaching it with a reverence -almost religious, with head uncovered, and with emotions excited by -the hallowed associations of the place, I had hoped to have entered -its precincts, and to have read the Bible story of its purchase and -of the interment of the patriarchal families, but a Moslem fanaticism, -as inhuman as it is irreligious, drove me from the sacred inclosure. -What a stinging rebuke to such conduct is found in the courtesy, the -justice, the goodness displayed by Abraham in the purchase of the field -from the sons of Heth! His memory should soften religious asperities; -his character should pacify the rage of fanaticism; his spirit should -harmonize the discordant elements of sectarian strife; but a Moslem -is too selfish, too bigoted, too depraved to rise to such sublime -conceptions. - -The field containing the cave of Machpelah is located on the higher -slope of the eastern hill, and is now inclosed by a massive wall fifty -feet high, the lower portion of which, to the height of forty feet, -is of Jewish construction, and the upper part is of Saracenic origin, -with a minaret at each angle. The wall has an ancient appearance, being -constructed of large beveled stones hewn smooth, and extends north and -south 200 feet, and 115 east and west. The exterior is ornamented with -square pilasters, sixteen on each side, eight at each angle, which, -without capitals, support a cornice extending the whole length of the -structure. The wall is solid, without window or aperture except at the -angles of the northern end, where are the chief entrances, reached by -broad flights of steps, of gentle ascent, leading to the court within. -Within this mural inclosure stands a mosque, once a Byzantine church, -which, like the Church of St. Sophia in Constantinople and the Church -of Justinian in Jerusalem, has been essentially altered and dedicated -to Mohammed. Beneath it is the cave of Machpelah, and within it are the -monumental shrines of the patriarchal dead. Within a small chapel, on -the right, is the cenotaph in honor of Abraham, and directly opposite, -in a similar recess, is the shrine of Sarah. Each is inclosed by an -iron railing, and guarded by a silver gate. That of the father of the -faithful consists of a coffin-like-structure, six feet high, built -of plastered marble, draped with three carpets of a green color, -embroidered with gold, while over that of Sarah is spread a pall. On -the sides of the mosque, midway the building, and immediately opposite -each other, are the monumental tombs of Isaac and Rebecca. Like those -of their parents, they are placed within chapels, in the walls of which -are windows, protected by iron bars. In a separate cloister, opposite -the entrance of the mosque, in corresponding recesses, are the tombs of -Jacob and Leah. Over that of the former are green-colored carpets of a -coarse texture; against that of the latter recline two war-banners of -the same hue. - -Regarding these tombs with a superstitious veneration in keeping with -the spirit and teachings of their religion, and with a fanaticism that -would lead to the instant death of an intruder, the Moslems reverence -them as among their holiest shrines. Until the year 1862, admittance -was absolutely refused to Jew and Christian, except to architects, -who were allowed to enter to repair the structure; but, thanks to -the intelligence, the power, and perseverance of the Prince of Wales, -the bar of seclusion from this most sacred and interesting place has -been removed; and though at present the relaxation is slight, yet -the ultimate effect of the prince’s visit must be the removal of all -restraint, at least so far as to admit the ordinary traveler to the -sacred inclosure, as he is now admitted to the Mosque of Omar, for a -small fee, which formerly was as sacredly guarded. Moslem cupidity can -not brook the temptations of gold. - -Canon Stanley, who accompanied the prince, has recorded, with his usual -elegance of diction, some thrilling illustrations of the superstition -and almost religious awe with which the guardians of the Mosque regard -these patriarchal shrines. “The princes of any other nation,” said -the chief santon, “should have passed over my dead body sooner than -enter; but to the eldest son of the Queen of England we are willing to -accord even this privilege.” And, as the party entered the silver gate -guarding the tomb of Abraham, the priest ejaculated, “O Friend of God, -forgive this intrusion.” Maintaining even in death their rigid rule -of the exclusion of male visitors from the society of their females, -not even the Crown Prince of England was permitted to approach the -cenotaphs of Sarah and her female descendants. The patriarchs being -regarded as still existing in a state of suspended animation, and -capable of resenting any indignity offered to their sepulchres, or -the presence of any unwelcome visitor, the prince’s party was denied -admittance to the tomb of Isaac, who, according to the santon, being -unlike his kind-hearted father, and more easily exasperated, would -arise and drive out any but those congenial to his spirit. - -Beneath the Mosque is the sacred cave where rest in peace the remains -of the eminent dead, and where to this day may still repose intact -the embalmed body of Jacob. Machpelah signifying “double,” the cave -consists of two compartments, separated by a wall of native rock. To -its sepulchral vaults there are three entrances――one in the northwest -corner, close to the western wall; a second in the court, opposite the -entrance-gate of the Mosque; and a third near the shrine of Abraham. -Believing, like the Catholics, in the intercession of saints, the -Moslems throw their petitions to the patriarchs[356] through the latter -aperture. - -Of the identity of this spot with the cave of Machpelah there can -not be a reasonable doubt. In the days of Josephus it was marked by -a memorial erected by Abraham himself, and from his time both Jews, -Christians, and Moslems have in turn been the faithful guardians of -the patriarchal tomb. Its identity is avouched by the belief of the -Jews themselves, and around its venerable walls the despised descendant -of the illustrious patriarchs now chants his prayers, and laments the -departed glory of the once mighty kingdom of his renowned ancestors. -Threatened with instant death should his devotion or temerity lead him -to cross the threshold, he is only permitted, on certain occasions, to -look through an aperture in the massive wall upon the spot where rest -in peace those who were mighty in their day and generation, but who, in -the helplessness of death, can bring no relief to a posterity who have -abandoned their altars, and rejected the long-promised and now exalted -Messiah. - -There was something touching in the thought that I stood beside the -family vault of those who had long lived together in the happy estate -of matrimony, and there was even enjoyment in the reflection that God -had vindicated the duality and unity of marriage in the grave. Here, -side by side, sleep Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebekah, Jacob and -Leah. Hagar and Keturah are not with Sarah, and Rachel is not with her -sister Leah. Is this separation in death God’s reproof to Jacob for -his dissatisfaction with Leah? Though the reasons that determined him -to inter his beautiful Rachel in a common field by the roadside are -unknown to us, and though Hebron is less than twenty miles distant from -Ephrath, yet it is somewhat remarkable that in after years she was not -exhumed and laid in the family tomb of Machpelah. Was Jacob unwilling -to divide his grave with the daughters of Laban? or, conscious of the -purity and singleness of his affection for Rachel, would he have her -alone even in death? By the highway her solitary tomb remains, and, as -if impressed with the patriarch’s wish, his descendants have made no -interments on the spot. - -Inseparably connected with Hebron is Beersheba, which is less -than forty miles to the south. The road thither is hilly, and the -journey toilsome; but, on approaching the well that Abraham dug, the -pasture-fields of the patriarchs stretch out before the eye in all -their native beauty and richness. Covering an area half a mile in -length and a quarter of a mile in breadth are fragments of pottery, -remains of foundations, and traces of a stone wall, the date of which -is unknown, called by Moses Beer-sheba, “Well of the Oath,” because -of the covenant between Abraham and Abimelech, and by the Arabs Bîr -es-Seb’a, “Well of the Seven,” because of the seven ewe-lambs the -former gave the latter: the modern name corresponds with the Bible -designation. Having a diameter of twelve and a half feet, and a depth -of forty-four feet to the surface of the water, this well is excavated -in the living rock, and contains an abundance of pure fresh water. - -Around this well what thrilling memories cluster! Departing from Hebron -after the conflagration of Sodom, Abraham planted here a grove, whose -fruit he gathered, and beneath whose shade he worshiped.[357] Here -Isaac spent his happy youth, rejoicing in the smiles of honored parents, -and here his father received the command to offer the child of promise -as a burnt-offering.[358] After the demise of his mother, here Isaac -received his bride Rebekah; and Beersheba became the scene of that -sad episode in domestic life, the fraud of Jacob in obtaining Esau’s -birthright.[359] Here, in manhood, those brothers were estranged by a -mother’s folly, and from this ancestral abode Jacob fled to Haran.[360] -After the lapse of seventy-five years he was here again, and offered -sacrifices prior to his departure into Egypt, whence he was brought -back with funeral honors such as only kings receive.[361] Threatened -by the infatuated Jezebel, hither Elijah fled, and, sitting beneath -the shade of a juniper-tree, requested for himself that he might -die.[362] And here was the southern boundary of the Promised Land, -whose uttermost limits, in the earlier history of the nation, were -from “Dan to Beersheba.” - -In a land where social and domestic customs never change, the scenes -of historic associations possess an interest that never fails. The -advanced civilization of Europe has there left to the traveler the -ruins of renowned cities, without perpetuating the customs of their -citizens. The temples, palaces, and dwellings of the Greeks and -Romans remain, attesting the genius, elegance, and wealth of their age, -but the social habits of the inhabitants of Athens and Rome bear no -resemblance to those of their superior ancestors. In Italy and Greece -one feels himself in an ancient country surrounded by a modern people, -and, to re-live the past, he must forsake the present. But in the East, -where a “thousand years are but as one day”――where the stereotyped life -of the patriarchs is the every-day life of the Arabs――where intonations -of voice, peculiarities of gesture, modes of salutation, styles of -dress, habits of business, customs of domestic life, and where the -tent, the meal, the fold are the same, the only difference is in the -change of the persons who now occupy the homes of those whose memory -we cherish, whose examples we imitate, and whose faith we aspire -to attain. Accustomed to the slow and regular processes of nature, -possessing power rather than capacity, and clinging to experience as -something immutable, those who live by the cultivation of the soil -look with suspicion upon novelties, regard innovations with dread, -and are the last to change. The incoming of Franks into Eastern cities -insensibly affects the manners of society; but here, on the patriarchal -pasture-fields of Mamre and Beersheba, the domestic life of to-day is -the same as it was 4000 years ago. - -In crossing the great Plain of Wady esh-Sheikh, in Arabia, _en route_ -for Mount Sinai, Sheik Hassan, the chief of a tribe of Tawarahs, -invited us to dine at his tent. It was noon when, from the backs of -our camels, we espied the encampment to the southward. Nine tents of -camel’s hair were arranged in a line, supported by rude poles. Those -for the females were impenetrable to the eye of strangers, while those -for the males consisted merely of a roof, with the sides and ends open. -On reaching the tent prepared for our reception, our camels knelt, we -dismounted, and the sheikh’s father, a man of eighty years, rose to -greet us, and bowed himself to the ground in an attitude of profound -respect.[363] Mats were spread for us to sit upon, and water was -brought to wash our hands and feet.[364] To the east of this tented -home Hassan’s daughters were keeping his flocks, as Rachel had kept -those of Laban nearly forty centuries ago.[365] A young man was sent -to the fold to fetch a kid, tender and good, and, having dressed it, -carried it into the tent to Hassan’s wife, who cooked it with milk -and rice. The rice and meat were brought on two large wooden plates -into our tent, and set before us on a small stool less than a foot -high. Without knife, fork, or spoon, we returned to the days before -the invention of such instruments, and with our fingers begun to eat, -while the sheikh respectfully stood up, attentive to our wants.[366] It -being a breach of Arab etiquette to inquire after the health of a wife, -we were not permitted to ask for Sarah as the angels did.[367] - -Had the dinner Abraham prepared for the three angels on the plains -of Mamre been dramatized, the correspondence could hardly have been -more exact. The tent-life; this distant field; the pressing invitation -to dine; the water for the ablution of our hands and feet; the going -to the field for a kid; handing it to a servant to dress it; the meal -itself; the sheikh standing up while we ate; the seclusion of the -females gave a lifelike reality to the sacred story. - -Like the patriarchs of old, these Bedouin sheikhs lead a predatory life, -moving their tents from place to place, according to the climate, and -the demands of their herds and flocks. But in wealth, in hospitality, -in reputation, in purity of character, in devotion, in intellect, in -nobility of nature, the modern Arab chief holds no comparison with the -exalted nature, the high-toned character, and the Christian-like piety -of the prince of the patriarchs. - -As in the days of the Hebrew spies, the Vale of Hebron is still famous -for the delicious grapes of Eshcol.[368] Extending up the valley for -more than a mile, and covering the sloping hills on either side, these -celebrated vineyards are cultivated with care, and are a source of -considerable revenue to the proprietors. Unlike our vineyards, those -of Eshcol have no arbors. The vines are planted in rows, from eight to -ten feet apart in each direction. When they attain a height of six feet -they are attached to a stake, placed in a sloping position, and the -shoots extending from vine to vine form a long and graceful festoon. -Occasionally two opposite rows are purposely inclined toward each -other, forming with their branches a natural arbor. After vintage, in -late autumn, all the shoots are pruned off, and the stocks are cut down -within a few feet of the ground, leaving an ungainly and apparently -dead trunk; but the returning spring brings forth again the tender -leaf, and the coming summer matures the luscious grape for the autumnal -vintage. In each vineyard there is a lodge, or stone tower, from which -the watchman keeps guard against the depredations of beasts and the -incursions of robbers. During the vintage season the town is deserted; -the people retire to these towers, each one sitting beneath his own -vine and fig-tree,[369] and dividing the time between the gathering of -the fruitage and the enjoyments of the annual festival. As the Moslems, -who are the principal proprietors, are not allowed by their Koran to -make wine, the grapes are either dried into raisins, or they are first -pressed, and the juice is then boiled down into a sirup called dîbs, -not unlike molasses, but of a more delightful flavor and delicious -taste. It was to these vineyards the spies came, and from them they -carried bunches of the grapes to Moses and their brethren as evidence -of the fruitfulness of the Promised Land. Their journey was long, -fatiguing, and perilous. Leaving Kadesh Barnea, in the Desert of Paran, -they entered the Jordan Valley, and followed the river northward to -Lake Tiberias, and, winding round its northern shore, entered the upper -valley of the Jordan, pursuing their journey as far as Rehob, near -Dan, as men come to Hamath; thence returning through the midst of the -land by Tabor, across the great plain of Esdraelon, over the hills of -Samaria, through the vale of Shechem, by Jacob’s well, over the heights -of Benjamin and Judah, by Shiloh, Bethel, Jerusalem, and Bethlehem, to -Hebron. Here flows the brook Eshcol, from which they drank, and from -the vines along its banks they cut down a branch with one cluster of -grapes, “and they bare it between two upon a staff.” To those who live -in more northern climates, this story of the enormous size and great -weight of a single bunch of grapes must seem incredible; but, whatever -may be the degeneracy of the Syrian grape, through centuries of neglect, -the proof is abundant that in southern latitudes grapes grow to an -enormous size. According to Pliny, a bunch of African grapes was larger -than an infant. Paul Lucas mentions bunches which he saw in Damascus -weighing forty-five pounds each, and in Naples I have eaten grapes -each one as large as a plum. The mode, however, adopted by the spies to -carry the bunch from Eshcol to Kadesh Barnea was probably not rendered -necessary by the size of the cluster so much as by the desire to -preserve it entire for the benefit of their brethren.[370] Watched by -the keen eye of the vine-dresser, we entered the vineyard, and were -impressed with the exact correspondence between the one before us and -the one described by our Lord: There was a certain householder, which -planted a vineyard, hedged it round about, digged a wine-press in it, -built a tower, and let it out to husbandmen.[371] There were the vines; -around them was the hedge; within it was the press; yonder stood the -tower, and by my side toiled the husbandman. Within the same vale are -groves of olives, and orchards of figs, and apricots, and quinces, -and pomegranates. The latter fruit, so frequently referred to in the -Bible, is as sweet to the taste as it is pleasant to the eye. In form -and size it is not unlike an orange, and in color inclines to a pale -yellow, tinged with a red blush. They grow upon a thorny bush, with -a tulip-shaped flower of a brilliant red color, and form one of the -luxuries of the East both to the native and to the stranger. But the -noblest of all the trees of Hebron is the remarkable oak of Abraham. It -stands in the midst of the vineyards, in a clean, smooth spot, covered -with soft, fresh grass, and near a well of cool water. It is an oak of -the evergreen species, measuring twenty-three feet in girth, and its -magnificent branches spread out over a circle ninety feet in diameter. -Six feet from the ground the trunk separates into four huge branches, -and, higher up, these in turn spread out into many more. Standing alone, -it appears to greater advantage, and its lengthened arms, loaded with -exquisite foliage, affords delightful shade to the weary traveler. Here, -on their festive days, the Jewish maidens and the young men of Hebron -assemble beneath this ancestral tree to enjoy the rural pleasure of the -song and dance. Though of great age, it is still sound and majestic, -and with it tradition associates many thrilling memories. Standing -on the Plain of Mamre, it probably marks the spot where Abraham -pitched his tent and entertained the angels. Though hardly credible -that this terebinth should have remained green and vigorous during the -lapse of nearly forty centuries, yet it may be cherished as the last -representative of the sacred forest of Mamre. Fond of contrasts, and -never happier than when the extremes of fortune and the ends of time -meet in the same scene, the Oriental legendaries point to this noble -oak as the slave-mart where the descendants of Abraham were sold by -their Roman masters into captivity. - -Plucking a leaf from the famous oak and a sprig from the vines of -Eshcol, we mounted our horses, and in less than an hour reached the -ruins of Remit el-Khulîl, the house of Abraham. Occupying the summit -of a mountain ridge, from which the blue waters of the Mediterranean -were distinctly seen, they consist of massive stone walls, of rounded -columns now broken, of arched vaults now in ruins, and of a noble well -hewn out of the solid rock. The two remaining walls are constructed of -well-dressed stones, measuring fifteen feet in length, and are in good -condition. The wall facing the south extends east and west 290 feet, -while the other, running at right angles with the former, is 160 in -length. The well is a perfect circle, with a diameter of ten feet. -Its sides are faced with smooth dressed stones, from out the joints of -which exquisite ferns were growing. The water is deep, clear, and sweet, -reflecting the sun by day, and the moon and stars by night. An unsolved -mystery still hangs over the ruins of Remit el-Khulîl, if ruins they be. -Their founder and their age are alike unknown. The Jews point to them -as marking one of the halting-places of Abraham; the Latin fathers -of church history ascribe them to Constantine the Great; while others -attribute them to some unknown person, who would have reared for -himself a castle and a palace, but was unable to finish the designed -plan. - -Resuming our journey, in half an hour we passed on our right a mosque, -whose solitary minaret rose gracefully in honor of the Prophet Jonah, -while to the left, a mile beyond, was a crumbling tower with pointed -arches, and near it an immense fountain, where shepherds were bathing. -On either side of the road were excavated tombs, now the haunt of the -hyena and jackal. The mosque probably marks the site of Halhul, and the -tower the site of Beth-zur, enumerated by Joshua as among the cities of -Judah.[372] Fifteen miles to the north from Hebron the valley of Urtâs -crosses the road at right angles, and to the right of the highway are -the celebrated Pools of Solomon. To these, and to the lovely gardens -which once environed them, he refers in Ecclesiastes, ii., 5, 6: “I -made me gardens and orchards, and I planted trees in them of all kinds -of fruits. I made me pools of water, to water therewith the wood that -bringeth forth trees.” Nowhere in the environs of Jerusalem could -the wise king have attained the consummation of his wishes to greater -advantage than here. Under the horticultural care of a Christian Jew, -the valley of Urtâs has been transformed into a charming garden. What -were once rocky hills are now terraced from base to summit, covered -with olives, figs, and almonds, while in the bed of the valley are -grains and grasses, flowers and vegetables, growing in rich abundance. -With his inexhaustible resources, what a scene of beauty must the -vale of Etham and the neighboring hills have presented in the days -of Solomon’s strength and glory! But Time, that inexorable destroyer -of human works, has effaced every trace of his wonderful genius save -the pools that bear his name. Both history and tradition point with -unmistakable accuracy to the imperial founder of these great fountains. -With his accustomed love of detail, Josephus refers to the rivulets and -gardens of Etham, situated fifty stadia to the south from the Holy City, -whither Solomon was wont to retire for rural delights; and the Rabbins, -with even greater minuteness, describe the aqueduct which conveyed the -waters of Urtâs to Jerusalem. - - Illustration: URTÂS. - -These pools consist of three immense reservoirs, situated in a straight -line one below the other, and so constructed that the bottom of the -first is higher than the top of the second, and the second than that of -the third. They are in part excavated in the rocky bed of the valley, -and in part built of square hewn stones covered with cement, and are -entered by stone steps excavated in the rock. Measuring 380 feet in -length, 236 in breadth, and twenty-five in depth, the upper pool is -the smallest of the three. A hundred and sixty feet to the east is the -middle pool, which is 423 feet long, thirty-nine deep, and varies from -160 to 250 wide. Two hundred and forty-eight feet farther east is the -lowest and largest reservoir, being 582 feet in length, from 148 to 207 -in width, and fifty feet in depth, and, when full, capable of floating -one of our largest men-of-war. The eastern end of the lowest pool is -supported by immense buttresses, in one of which is a chamber, and in -the north wall of the first tank is a filter――a wise precaution. Forty -rods to the northwest, in an open field, are the perennial sources of -these great fountains. Twelve feet below the surface are two vaulted -chambers, the larger of the two being thirty-seven feet long and twenty -wide. Springing up at four different places through the bottom of these -chambers, the water is conducted by little ducts into a large basin, -from which it flows through a subterranean canal to the northwest -corner of the first pool, where it is divided, a portion of it flowing -into a deep vault near the old castle, and thence being conducted into -the first pool, while the remainder is carried by an aqueduct along the -hill-side, which is so arranged as to send a portion of its water into -the second and third pools, and then, descending rapidly, joins the -aqueduct leading from the lowest pool, from which point the water is -conducted, via Bethlehem, by a sinuous channel to Jerusalem. I know not -which to admire more――the genius of the architect that conceived such -a complicated work, or the public spirit of the king who supplied the -means for its execution. The original design was to supply the Holy -City with pure cool water, and also the Temple service, which demanded -such large quantities. And to obtain a constant and unfailing supply, -these tanks bore to each other a mutual relation. When the fountain -yielded more than was necessary, the surplus was carried into the pools, -and when the yield was not equal to the demand, the deficiency was -supplied from the pools themselves. - -The wind blew hard from the northwest as I traced up the hill-side -the ancient aqueduct, repeating those impressive words of the great -proverbialist, “Vanity of vanities, all is vanity.” Like the melancholy -strains of a dirge, the winds moaned as they swept round the mountain -brow, and the waters sighed as they languidly fell from pool to pool. -Was it not the requiem of his departed glory? A solitary descendant -of his mighty kingdom now grubs a living where once his royal gardens -stood, of whose beauty he sang in all the tenderness of the Canticles; -and the robber of the desert and the wild Bedouin of the hills now -bathe in those fountains which once sent murmuring streamlets along -verdant banks and flowery beds, and supplied the imperial table with -the cooling beverage. - - Illustration: SOLOMON’S POOLS. - -The aqueduct is constructed of red earthen pipes, covered, for -protection, by common limestone flagging. In many places the flagging -is removed and the pottery broken, to accommodate the traveler with -water. To preserve a proper level, it sweeps around the hills and heads -of the valleys; and, though fatiguing to follow its windings, it repaid -the toil, as illustrating the fact that, while the ancients could -construct the most complicated works of masonry, they were ignorant -of the simple method of conducting water over a level higher than its -source. Having followed the aqueduct two miles, we crossed the wild -valley of Ta’âmirah, and reached Bethlehem in time to enjoy a Christian -wedding. Ten pretty maidens had assembled at the door of the bride, and -were singing a simple but sweet melody, accompanied with the clapping -of hands. Unlike the music of the Moslems, there was a warmth in these -bridal songs thrilling and joyous. From a scene so happy we passed -through the town, and, a mile from the ancient gateway to the northwest, -we came to the tomb of Rachel. “And they journey from Bethel; and there -was but a little way to come to Ephrath; and Rachel died and was buried -in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a pillar upon -her grave; that is the pillar of Rachel’s grave unto this day.”[373] -The pillar reared to the memory of a beloved wife has given place to a -small white square building, surmounted by a dome. It is a Mohammedan -wely. Standing by the side of the great road from Jerusalem to Hebron, -the site has never been lost, its identity never questioned. Jew, -Christian, Moslem, equally revere it, and never pass it without some -token of affectionate remembrance. Gathering a few wild flowers growing -near the dust of Rachel, we resumed our journey toward Jerusalem. In -half an hour we reached the convent dedicated to Elijah, called Mâr -Eliâs, and here came upon the new and noble macadamized road, extending -from Bethlehem to Jerusalem, constructed by the monks of Mâr Eliâs, -which is the first of the kind in Palestine, since the construction -of a similar road by the French, running from Beîrut to Damascus. The -wind had increased to a tornado as we swept by the Plain of Rephaim. It -was the last object of Biblical interest to heighten the joy of a long -and interesting tour. Stretching from the rocky brow of Hinnom to the -Convent of Elias, it gradually declines to the narrow Valley of Roses. -A mile in length, it is one of the richest plains in the Holy Land. It -is remarkable in sacred history as the camp of the Philistines in the -days of Saul, and as containing a mulberry-grove, now gone, in the tops -of the trees, of which David heard a “sound of a going,”[374] which to -him was the signal of war and the pæan of victory. - - - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Land of the Philistines. ―― Its Limits. ―― Fell to the Lot of - Simeon and Dan. ―― Origin of the Philistines. ―― The meaning - of the Name. ―― Their royal Cities. ―― Their God and Goddess. - ―― Journey thither. ―― Valley of Roses. ―― Baptism of the - Eunuch. ―― Home of John the Baptist. ―― Slaughter of the Jews - in the City of Bether. ―― Site of Bethshemesh. ―― Home of - Samson. ―― Village of Zorah. ―― Field where the Angel appeared. - ―― Town of Timnath. ―― Lair of the Lion. ―― Home of Delilah. - ―― Oriental Weddings. ―― Valley of Shochoh. ―― Scene of the - Conflict between David and Goliath. ―― Correspondence between - Scripture and the natural Features of the Place. ―― The Valley. - ―― The Brook. ―― The smooth Stones. ―― The Sling. ―― The - Mountains. ―― The Champions. ―― The Victory. ―― Home of - Goliath. ―― Gath. ―― David’s feigned Insanity. ―― Road to - Eleutheropolis. ―― Its Location. ―― Great Caves. ―― Site - of Lachish. ―― Its great Battle-field. ―― Sennacherib and - Hezekiah. ―― Byron’s Hebrew Melody. ―― Gaza. ―― Palm-groves. - ―― Direction of the Road. ―― Site of the City. ―― Modern City. - ―― Ancient Ruins. ―― Christian Church. ―― Home of Giants. ―― - Gates that Samson carried away. ―― His Prison. ―― The great - Feast. ―― Samson called. ―― His Presence alarms the Multitude. - ―― Feats of Strength. ―― Death Scene. ―― He is a Failure. - ―― Alexander the Great wounded at Gaza. ―― A Moslem City. ―― - Ascalon. ―― Route thither. ―― Stood near the Sea. ―― Ruins. ―― - Desolation. ―― History. ―― Adorned by Herod. ―― Captured by - the Crusaders. ―― Road to Ashdod. ―― Beautiful Gardens. ―― No - Ruins. ―― Dagon and the Ark. ―― Road to Joppa. ―― Villages. - ―― Joppa on the Sea. ―― Its Antiquity. ―― Floats of Pine and - Cedar. ―― House of Simon. ―― Substantial Structure. ―― Peter’s - Vision. ―― Appearance of the Town. ―― Gate of the City. - ―― Population. ―― Jews. ―― Nubian Magician. ―― Magnificent - Orange-groves. ―― Ramleh. ―― Franciscans. ―― Traditions. - ―― Antiquities. ―― Tower. ―― View. ―― Ludd. ―― Eneas cured - of Palsy. ―― Church of St. George. ―― Beautiful Ruin. ―― - Nether Bethhoron. ―― Wretchedness. ―― Upper Bethhoron. - ―― Battle-field of Gibeon. ―― The Battle. ―― Wonderful - Correspondence. ―― Testimony of the Rocks. ―― Ajalon. ―― Sun - and Moon stand still. ―― City of Gibeon. ―― Modern Town. ―― - Gibeonites. ―― History. ―― Death of the Gladiators. ―― Pool - of Gibeon. ―― Murder of Amasa. ―― Solomon’s Dream. ―― “The - Look-out.” ―― Mizpeh. ―― National Rendezvous. ―― Ebenezer - Stone. ―― Saul chosen King. ―― Minaret. ―― Vast and - magnificent Prospect. - - -PHILISTIA is among the richest sections of Palestine, and is scarcely -surpassed in fertility by any other portion of land upon the globe. -Consisting of that vast maritime plain extending from Joppa on the -north to Gerar on the south, it is washed by the Mediterranean on the -west, and is bounded on the east by the Mountains of Judea. Originally -occupied by the Avims, the descendants of Cush,[375] it subsequently -became the possession of the Philistines. In the division of the land -it fell to the tribes of Simeon and Dan, who, however, were never fully -able to subdue their allotted provinces. At present it is inhabited -by Moslem Arabs, whose humble towns occupy the sites of more renowned -cities. On the origin of the Philistines the learned are not agreed. -In the absence of authentic records and of distinctive customs, it is -difficult to decide whether they came from the hills of Cappadocia, -the islands of Cyprus and Crete, or from Lower Egypt. Their national -name, signifying “strangers,” implies their foreign birth. Nor is it -definitely known whether they came in possession of their new territory -by conquest, or by alliances formed with the aborigines of Canaan, -who, in process of time, were absorbed by the more rapid increase and -superior strength of their allies. Rising to greatness from an humble -beginning, their history forms part of the inspired narrative, and -the whole country now bears the name of Palestine, or “the Land of -the Philistines.” Dividing their possession into five lordships, they -founded as many royal cities, which are known in Scripture by the -names of Gaza, Ashdod, Askelon, Gath, and Ekron. Idolaters in faith -and practice, their chief divinity was Dagon, the “Fish-god,” whose -dominion over men, beasts, and fowls was represented by the triple -formation of his body. He had a human head, a horse’s neck, and trunk -and limbs covered with the feathers of different birds. His wife -Derceto, “the Fish-goddess,” or Syrian Venus, had the form of a -beauteous maid from her waist up, and thence downward resembled a fish. - -As the home of Samson, and the scene of many a romantic story, -Philistia has a history of thrilling interest. It was therefore with no -ordinary delight that we left the Holy City to explore a region where -have occurred so many grand historic events. Skirting the northern -border of the Plain of Rephaim, we were soon under the shadow of the -Convent of the Cross. Turning to the right, we entered the Valley of -Roses, called by the Arabs Wady el-Werd. For more than half a mile -the bottom of the glen is covered with rose-bushes, cultivated for -the manufacture of rose-water, which is used in the East in large -quantities. Descending Wady el-Werd, we soon reached Philip’s Fountain, -where, according to a recent tradition, the Evangelist baptized the -Ethiopian eunuch.[376] ’Ain Hanîyeh is a pretty fountain gushing out -from a semicircular apse, ornamented with pilasters, and is situated in -a wild glen by the wayside, on the ancient road to Gaza. On the summit -of a neighboring hill to the north stands the quiet hamlet of ’Ain -Kârim, the birthplace of John the Baptist. It is in the “hill country -of Judea,” and is the scene of the meeting of those pious cousins, -the destined mothers of the Messiah and his harbinger.[377] High up on -a wild ridge to the south is the city of Bether, where the pretended -Christ, called Bar-cochba, the “Son of a Star,” made his last and fatal -stand against the Romans under Adrian. It was then a Jewish city of -wealth and learning, and, after a siege of three and a half years, was -forced to surrender. Eighty thousand of its unfortunate citizens fell -beneath the conqueror’s sword; and such was the dreadful slaughter, -that, according to the historian, the horses waded in blood up to their -bridles. - -Following the Sultâny, or “Queen’s Highway,” our path lay among the -“hills of Judea,” clad with vines and covered with corn. Approaching -the large town of Beit ’Abab, we turned to the west, and at high noon -reached the ancient city of Bethshemesh. Thistles and marigolds now -cover the ruins of the Philistine village, to which the Ark of the Lord -was brought from Ekron, and where fifty thousand people were slain for -their temerity in looking into the ark, contrary to the Lord’s express -command.[378] We were now in the country of Samson. Around us rose his -native hills, and beneath us stretched the valleys of his childhood, -while here and there appeared the scenes of many memorable deeds of his -riper years. On the summit of a neighboring hill to the right, which -rises steeply from the Valley of Sûr’ah, is the village of Zorah, where -he was born,[379] and adjoining it is the field where the angel of the -Lord appeared unto Manoah and his wife. Beyond an intervening ridge, -and less than two miles to the westward, is Timnath, situated on a -plain, the place where Samson married his Philistine wife.[380] It was -in one of the vineyards in the adjacent glen that, as he hastened to -his betrothed, he turned aside to slay the lion of Timnath who roared -against him,[381] and from whose dead carcass, on a subsequent occasion, -he took the honey which, on his wedding-day, was the subject of that -perplexing riddle, “Out of the eater came forth meat, and out of the -strong came forth sweetness.”[382] It was there the wife of his bosom -was afterward given to another, and, to avenge himself, he went forth -to destroy the corn-fields of his enemies, which dotted the Plain of -Philistia.[383] From the base of his native hill extends the Valley of -Sorek, the home of Delilah,[384] and where the man with a divine secret, -yielding to the entreaties of a woman, fell asleep in the lap of false -affection, to awake to weakness and to shame. Along this same vale -the road leads to Gaza, whither the blind captive was led, bound with -fetters of brass, to grind in the prison-house of the Philistines.[385] -And now, after the lapse of so many centuries, all the incidents -of his wedding are illustrated by existing customs and confirmed by -facts. Wives are procured now, as then, by the intervention of parents; -marriages are attended by the same display; and on such occasions -riddles are propounded by the bridegroom, and other sports practiced. -In the wild glens of this region, and on the rugged hills, are foxes or -jackals, and through the corn-fields on the rich plains below another -Samson might send them on their burning mission. - -Passing on toward the scene of his death, we turned to the southeast -in search of the Valley of Shochoh, where David slew Goliath. A ride of -six miles brought us to Beit Nettîf, a small village crowning a lofty -cliff. Impelled by curiosity, the people gathered around us in crowds -to examine our garments and riding equipage. Compelled to take a guide -to the romantic valley, we secured the services of a white-turbaned -Arab, who, after tenderly kissing his child and bidding his wife -adieu, led us through the town, and, to save a detour, up the roughest, -steepest mountain in the Holy Land. Skirting the verge of a dangerous -precipice on the north, we turned southward, and in less than an hour -entered one of the most picturesque ravines in Southern Palestine. -Rising grandly on either side, the rocks were festooned with delicate -shrubs, and from a thousand rills the water glided, forming a brooklet -below. Midway the ravine there is a fountain gushing out of the -mountain’s side, around which are a few Arab huts. The glen contracted -as we ascended, and at its terminus the country opened and declined -toward the south. Rapidly descending a mountain path, we were soon -in the Valley of Elah, where David achieved his celebrated victory. -Here, as elsewhere in our travels, we had proof of the harmony existing -between the inspired narrative of the event and the topography of the -scene of its occurrence. - -Running north and south, the bed of the valley measures a mile in width, -and was covered with grain and flowers. Through its centre extends a -torrent bed, lined with smooth pebbles, and fringed with acacia-trees. -Though not high, the mountains on either side are bold and well defined. -On their summits the contending armies were drawn up in battle array, -watching each other’s movements. To make an assault, the intervening -valley must first be crossed, which would give to the defense an -immense advantage. Unwilling to lose a good position and invite -such a fearful slaughter, the armies were disinclined to make an -attack. Impatient at the delay, there was one brave spirit among -the Philistines who offered to stake the issues of the war upon a -single-handed combat. Descending, day after day, for forty days, the -left bank of the valley, Goliath of Gath threw down the gauntlet and -cried out, “I defy the armies of Israel; send me a man, that we may -fight together.” His giant form, his proud, defiant tone, his powerful -weapons, sent dismay to the heart of Israel, and neither the once -heroic Saul, nor any of his warriors, had the courage to accept the -challenge. With all the appearance of an accidental event, David that -day reached the camp with provision for his three brethren who were in -Saul’s army. Rising above the contempt of Eliab, rejecting the king’s -armor, but trusting in that higher power which had led him to the scene -and ordained him for the fight, David went forth to retrieve the honor -of his country, and vindicate the supremacy of Jehovah over the idol -Dagon. Like Syrian shepherds of to-day, he carried a staff, a scrip, -and sling, for the defense of his fold. Confident of his ability to -employ with success the instruments which he had been accustomed to -all his life, David descended, in the presence of the embattled hosts, -and from the flowing brook he stooped to gather five smooth stones for -the conflict. The apparent advantages were with the Philistine; but -the Unseen, who was with David, was more than he who was against him. -Goliath had size, strength, experience, armor, and weapons. David was -young, small, and armed only with a sling; but he had spirit, courage, -and faith. What to him would forever have remained the romantic stories -of a shepherd’s life, now suddenly becomes the source of inspiration -and the ground of hope. Among his native mountains a lion and a bear -had attacked his fold, and when, in attempting to rescue the lamb, the -wild beasts rose up against him, he smote the one and the other, “and -this uncircumcised Philistine shall be as one of them, seeing he has -defied the armies of the living God.” Those champions met, one in the -pride of his strength and military prowess, the other in the name of -the Lord of hosts; one full of contempt for his antagonist, the other -conscious of a just cause. The polished armor, the brazen shield, -the burnished helmet, and immense spear of Goliath, glittered in the -sunlight; the ruddy cheeks of the shepherd boy glowed with a heroic -spirit, which was his only helmet, and a brave heart within him, -beating calmly, was his only shield. Swung by unerring skill, and -guided by an invisible hand, the smooth stone from the Brook Elah -penetrated the brain of the giant, and David stood in triumph upon his -fallen body, amid the shouts of victory and the benedictions of his -countrymen.[386] - -Seven miles to the northwest, on the same road over which the routed -Philistines fled, is Gath, the native city of Goliath. The conspicuous -hill on which it stood rises 200 feet above the Plain of Philistia, and -is now crowned with an old castle, a Mohammedan tomb, and a few huts, -which compose the modern town. Besides being the birthplace of the -famous warrior, it is also the scene of a singular episode in the life -of David. Compelled to fly from the presence of Saul, he stopped at Nob, -where, having obtained from Abimelech a supply of food and the sword of -Goliath, he came to Gath, either in the hope of not being recognized, -or, as a fugitive from Saul’s court, of receiving a welcome from the -Philistines, with whom the king was then at war. Disappointed in both, -and discovering that his fate was sealed, “he feigned himself mad -in their hands, and scrabbled on the doors of the gate, and let his -spittle fall upon his beard.” Madmen being privileged characters then, -as they are now in the East, he was permitted to roam at large; and, -embracing a favorable moment, he fled to the cave of Adullam, where he -gathered a small army around him, and resisted the repeated attempts of -Saul to take his life.[387] - -From Gath the road runs toward the southeast, and the next important -place is Eleutheropolis, six miles distant. The path is rugged, -and alternately crosses stony ridges and small valleys. The village -occupies a nook in a green valley, and is surrounded by low hills. -Though the ancient city is destitute of special Biblical interest, yet -its ruins are extensive and unique. Within an inclosure 600 feet square -are the remains of a castle, filling one third of the entire space. -The interior contains arches, vaults, and marble shafts. Two hundred -yards up a ravine, extending eastward, are massive foundations, and a -fine well, more than seventy feet deep; but the chief attraction is the -great caves, unequaled in extent by any in Syria. The largest of these -caverns is 100 feet high and sixty-five in diameter. Lateral galleries -connect it with adjoining caves, which are surmounted with domes, -and ornamented with cornices. In another portion of the town is a -vast range of bell-shaped chambers, connected by arched doorways and -subterranean passages. While a few of them are entirely dark, most of -them are lighted by a circular aperture in the top. Some regard these -caverns as the work of Idumean Troglodytes, while others suppose them -to have been excavated for cisterns; the former is the more probable -theory.[388] - -Thirteen miles to the southwest is the site of Lachish, called by the -Arabs Um Lâkis. The intervening country is rocky and undulating, and -occasionally dotted with deserted villages. The hill on which the city -stood is low and flat, and is strewn with fragments of marble columns -and blocks of hewn stones. Lachish was among the cities of Judah -captured by Joshua,[389] but derives its chief significance from having -been fortified by Rehoboam,[390] and afterward besieged by Sennacherib. -It was while the latter was encamped here that King Hezekiah sent unto -him, saying, “I have offended; return from me; that which thou puttest -on me I will bear.” To meet the demand for 300 talents of silver and -thirty talents of gold, Hezekiah emptied his own treasure and that of -the house of the Lord; and, to supply a deficiency that remained, “he -cut off the gold from the doors and pillars of the Temple.” But, not -satisfied with a sum so large, Sennacherib sent three of his generals -to Jerusalem to demand the immediate and unconditional surrender of the -city. One of the three was Rabshakeh, whose blasphemous speech offended -Heaven, as his proud and defiant words had overwhelmed the king with -consternation and fear. That night God heard Hezekiah’s prayer, and -vindicated his own insulted majesty. From his throne “the angel of -the Lord went out, and smote in the camp of the Assyrians an hundred -fourscore and five thousand.” The next morning Sennacherib departed for -Nineveh, where he was assassinated by two of his sons while worshiping -in the temple of Nisroch, his god. - -In one of his noblest odes, Byron has described the destruction of the -Assyrian host: - - “The Assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold, - And his cohorts were gleaming in purple and gold; - And the sheen of their spears was like stars on the sea, - When the blue wave rolls nightly on deep Galilee. - - “Like the leaves of the forest when Summer is green, - That host with their banners at sunset were seen; - Like the leaves of the forest when Autumn hath blown, - That host on the morrow lay wither’d and strown. - - “For the Angel of Death spread his wings on the blast, - And breathed in the face of the foe as he pass’d; - And the eyes of the sleepers wax’d deadly and chill, - And their hearts but once heaved, and forever grew still. - - “And there lay the steed with his nostril all wide, - And through it there roll’d not the breath of his pride; - And the foam of his gasping lay white on the turf, - And cold as the spray of the rock-beaten surf. - - “And there lay the rider distorted and pale, - With the dew on his brow, and the rust on his mail; - And the tents were all silent, the banners alone, - The lances unlifted, the trumpet unblown. - - “And the widows of Ashur are loud in their wail, - And the idols are broke in the temple of Baal; - And the might of the Gentile, unsmote by the sword, - Hath melted like snow in the glance of the Lord!” - -The bleakness of the scenery from Lachish to Gaza is relieved by groves -of palms, olives, and willows, together with the gardens which surround -the half dozen intervening villages. The peasants of these towns are -industrious, and the glee of the children indicated their happiness, -notwithstanding their nudity. The road crosses diagonally several deep -torrent beds, which drain the upland country, and which continue their -courses through the white sand downs to the sea. The approach to Gaza -is among sand-hills and through olive-groves, and, after a ride of -twelve miles from Lachish, the traveler finds himself in this renowned -Philistine city. Situated three miles from the sea, Gaza is a city of -15,000 inhabitants, 300 of whom are Christians and the rest Moslems. -Around it, like a green belt, are gardens of apricots, mulberries, and -palms. On its western side runs the same road which was trodden by the -Pharaohs thousands of years ago, and which leads to the pasture-fields -of Gerar. Between the town and the sea is a range of hills, of drifting -sand, two miles wide. On the east of the city are barren hills, the -highest of which is crowned with a Mohammedan wely, and is probably the -hill to the top of which Samson carried the gates of Gaza. - -Rising from amid the rude buildings of the town is the great mosque, -which was once a Christian church, and dedicated to John the Baptist. -It has a peaked roof and an octagonal minaret. The interior is 130 feet -long, and is divided into a nave and two aisles by rows of Corinthian -columns. Modern Gaza has neither walls, gates, nor fortifications of -any kind. Though thus exposed to the attacks of the predatory bands of -Bedouins, yet the inhabitants are seldom molested, for no other reason, -perhaps, than the fact that they themselves in part are freebooters. - -With an antiquity that ranks it among the oldest cities in the -world,[391] Gaza was originally inhabited by the Hivites, the -descendants of Canaan,[392] who in the lapse of time were dispossessed -by the Philistines, who elevated it to the dignity of a royal city. In -the days of Moses it was the home of those giants known as the Anakims, -whose formidable stature and warlike character alarmed the Hebrew -spies, and, though subsequently captured by the tribe of Judah, it -was repossessed by the sons of Anak, who enslaved the Israelites.[393] -But Gaza appears most prominent in sacred history as the scene of many -remarkable events in the life of Samson, and from him it has derived -an imperishable name. In his happier days he here performed one of the -most astonishing feats of his supernatural strength. Besieged by his -enemies, he arose at midnight and carried the gates of the city upon -his shoulders to the top of a hill that is before Hebron.[394] It was -prior to his alliance with Delilah, and when in full possession of -his marvelous strength, that he thus bade defiance to a whole race -of giants. But, deceived by the duplicity of an unworthy wife, he -afterward became, in the very city of his triumph, a blind, fettered, -imprisoned captive, the sport of woman, and the ridicule of man. - - Illustration: GAZA. - -Dreading him more than an army with banners, the Philistines had taken -every precaution to secure their powerful and determined foe. Having -consigned him to eternal darkness by the destruction of his eyes, -they fastened his limbs with fetters of brass, and, thrusting him into -a loathsome dungeon, appointed him to the menial work of an Eastern -woman.[395] But He who had chosen him to be the champion and avenger -of his people restored his strength, and with its restoration the -day of vengeance returned. Deeming his capture a public good, the -Philistines assembled to offer thanksgiving to their god Dagon. The day -dawned without a cloud, and the sun rose in beauty upon the Plains of -Philistia. At an early hour the streets of ancient Gaza were thronged -with an excited multitude, who were hastening to the great sacrifice, -and rejoicing in the capture of the giant of Zorah. The grand temple of -their idol crowned the loftiest of their hills. Its broad flat roof was -supported by arches resting on pillars. Two central columns, massive -and strong, and standing near each other, were the key to the whole -support. On the roof of the spacious temple, and also within the sacred -fane, the lords of the Philistines, with their wives, had assembled to -honor their god and enjoy the sports of the occasion. Though it was no -part of their original purpose that Samson should add to the joy of the -day by exhibitions of his strength, yet, as one pleasure never fails to -excite a desire for another, and as a succession of pleasures demands -the most extravagant delights, so, in the delirious excitement of the -moment, the blind captive is called to make them sport. They had heard -of the return of his strength, and he being now sightless, they could -witness exhibitions of his power without fear of injury to themselves, -as in former days, so long as they remained beyond his reach. Josephus -supposes they made him a laughing-stock, and insulted him in their -cups; but, rather, they forced him to perform prodigious exploits of -physical strength, which accounts for his weariness, and his excuse to -lean against the pillars. Led by a little Philistine boy, he came from -his gloomy dungeon. The transition from darkness to light had no effect -upon his sightless eyeballs. Recalling the havoc he had made among -their countrymen at Lehi, and not knowing what plans of revenge were -then the subject of his thoughts, many ran at his approach, while all -sought to avoid his grasp. As he advanced he was greeted with shouts -of ridicule and peals of laughter. Removing the brazen fetters to give -full play to his mighty limbs in the contemplated performance, a guard -of Philistine giants encircle him, to pierce him with spear and javelin -should he attempt to avenge his misfortune. Without knowing the manner -in which he acted, we are left to imagine how he made sport for his -enemies. What massive block of marble did he lift? what new lion of -Timnath did he grapple with? what gate with posts and bar did he carry -on his shoulders? what new cord or green withes did he snap asunder, -as “tow is broken when it toucheth the fire?” what new Delilah wove -his fresh-grown “locks with the web, and fastened them with a pin to -a beam,” that he might bear away web, pin, and beam? - -Deceived by the docility of his spirit and the obedience of his -behavior, he is called within the temple itself. At length, wearied -with the great exertions he had been required to make, he unsuspectedly -requested of the lad that led him, “Suffer me that I may feel the -pillars whereupon the house standeth, that I may lean upon them.” -Sweating, panting, weary, the captive leans for rest against the marble -columns, while, in fancied security, the people shout, joke, laugh, -rending his very soul. A blind man’s eye reveals no heart-secret. -Samson repents a misspent life, and, conscious that his strength was -Heaven’s gift, he prays, “O Lord God, remember me, I pray thee, and -strengthen me, I pray thee, only this once, O God, that I may be at -once avenged of the Philistines for my two eyes.” Then, seizing the -two pillars, “he bowed himself with all his might,” and in a moment -the roof fell in, precipitating those on the top into one broken, dying -mass with those within, and, slaying more in his death than in his life, -the victor and the vanquished slept the sleep that knows no waking. - -I wept when I remembered the son of Manoah. He was a child of -Providence. His was a miraculous birth. Chosen to punish idolatry, -to deliver his country, and judge a nation, Samson was an army of -_one_. God had purposed to accomplish through him what he had done -by the mighty forces of Joshua, Deborah, Gideon, and Jephthah, and to -illustrate his own divine power in subduing the enemies of his church -by the arm of a single man. It was a thought worthy of a God. As in -other ways of the Almighty, the secret of Samson’s power was hidden. -Unlike Goliath, he was an ordinary man in stature: there was nothing -in his physique that indicated his wondrous strength. It was this that -confounded his foes, and impelled them to solicit Delilah with a bribe -to ascertain the secret of his power. As his strength was not in his -muscles, so it was not in the seven locks of his hair. When asleep and -at ordinary duties he was as other men, but when the Philistines were -to be punished, the Spirit of the Lord came upon him. So long as he -retained the solitary virtue of secrecy, and allowed his beard and hair -to grow untrimmed, it pleased the Lord to use him as he did Jephthah -and Cyrus, and as he does a thunderbolt or a volcano, to punish the -wicked; but when he preferred the smiles of a woman to the benedictions -of heaven, he became as other men. Though a failure in life, he was -faithful in death; and for the faith of his dying act, St. Paul records -the name of Samson among the illustrious believers.[396] - -The subsequent history of Gaza is replete with memorable events. Being -the key to Palestine to those on the south, and the key to Egypt to -those on the north, it has been frequently subjected to the calamities -of war. Besieged by Alexander the Great, its defenders surrendered -their city with their lives; and in the fearful conflict the great -warrior received a wound in the shoulder, which threatened to terminate -his eventful career. In the first century of our own era it was twice -destroyed, and, though subsequently rebuilt, it never attained its -ancient splendor. Though early visited by the teachers of Christianity, -yet in the fifth century it contained eight temples dedicated to the -worship of heathen gods. In 634 A.D. it yielded to the conquering arms -of Mohammed, and afterward became the birthplace of Esh-Shâfa’y, the -founder of one of the largest of the Mohammedan sects. In 1152 A.D. the -Crusaders found the city deserted, and, erecting a strong fortress on -the highest hill, intrusted its defense to the Knights Templars.[397] -Captured and sacked by Saladin in 1170 A.D., with the exception of a -brief interval, it has remained, as it is now, a Moslem city. - -Askelon is on the sea, twelve miles to the north from Gaza. The great -route thither runs along the eastern side of the sand downs which -separate it from the shore, and, continuing northward, passes through -several Arab towns, surrounded with orchards of figs and groves of -palms. Despite the incessant efforts of the villagers, the drifting -sand is annually approaching their homes, and, if not resisted by a -more formidable barrier, will completely destroy their gardens and -overwhelm their dwellings. It is not uncommon to see trees so buried -that only a green twig is visible, indicating the position of the tree, -while the branches of those not yet entombed are dusted with the flying -sand. - -As one of the five royal cities of the Philistines, Askelon was -celebrated for the grandeur of its architecture. It occupied an area -not unlike in form an amphitheatre. Along the shore extend a series of -bold cliffs, a mile in length and eighty feet high. From the northern -end of this range a lofty ridge sweeps round like a semicircle, first -to the eastward, then to the southward, and finally, bending westward, -runs to the sea. Within this space are the ruins of the city, and on -the top of this curving ridge the wall was built, defended by strong -towers, the immense fragments of which, thrown together in confused -heaps, suggest a destroying angel more powerful than the hand of man. -On the east are the remains of a large castle, and near it is the chief -entrance to the city. Not far from a ruinous wely are the traces of a -noble avenue, which was once lined with columns, and within 200 yards -of it is a low excavated area, on which are thirty large granite and -marble shafts. Beneath mounds of sand there must be other remains, -perhaps of temples and palaces, but at present not even the outlines -of a building can be traced. Whether viewed in its ruins, or as -defenseless against the encroaching waves of sand, Askelon wears an -air of dreariness as indescribable as it is sad. On her rests the -burden of prophecy: “Askelon shall be a desolation.[398] Askelon shall -not be inhabited.”[399] - - Illustration: RUINS OF ASKELON. - -Though it was allotted to the tribe of Judah, the Philistines held -possession of their city throughout the whole period of the Jewish -monarchy. Its significance in sacred history is derived from its -gross idolatry, and the fearful judgments denounced against it by the -prophets, rather than from any great events having occurred within -its limits. But, beyond the inspired record, it has a history in which -figure many illustrious characters. Regarding its maritime location -as invaluable, Herod the Great adorned the city with baths, porticoes, -and fountains, and after his death his sister Salome resided there -in a palace which her brother had built. Suffering greatly in the -wars between the Jews and the Romans, the original citizens became the -allies of the latter, and Askelon was the scene of a horrid massacre, -in which 2500 Jews were put to death. In after years the Christians -and the Moslems lost and won in turns this important sea-port town. -Captured by Baldwin III. in 1152 A.D., it subsequently reverted to the -Moslems, but yielded again to the Crusaders, under Richard Cœur de Lion, -in 1191 A.D., who compelled Saladin to abandon this stronghold; and -when, in turn, the Christians were expelled, Askelon began to wane, and -to-day it is an uninhabited town. - -Less than 100 yards to the northeast stands the wretched village of -El-Jûrah, the modern representative of the royal city. Through its -gardens the road leads to Ashdod, eight miles to the north. Two miles -on the way is the town of Mejdel, the largest and most flourishing of -all the villages on the Plain of Philistia. The buildings are large -and well constructed, the streets are wide and clean, and the scenery -and gardens around it are exceedingly beautiful. Passing through the -village of Hamâmeh, the path runs along the sandy downs, and after -ascending a low ridge, enters Ashdod on the south. Its mud houses are -located on the declivity of a hill, and near it is a lake 500 yards -in circumference. Though once the capital of a lordship, yet Ashdod is -without antique ruins, and the traveler is left to record its history -amid the beautiful gardens, without the remains of temples and palaces -to aid his recollection. It was here the Ark of the Lord was brought -after the battle of Aphek, and the Philistines, deeming it a religious -trophy, placed it in the temple of their idol, “And when they of -Ashdod arose early on the morrow, behold, Dagon was fallen on his face -to the earth before the Ark of the Lord.” Elevating their deity to -his place, the Philistines found him in the dust again on the second -night. Smitten by the Lord with pestilence for their impiety, in their -distress they sent the Ark to Gath.[400] Three centuries later Ashdod -was dismantled by King Uzziah;[401] and it is afterward mentioned by -Nehemiah, who reproaches the Jews for having there married heathen -wives after their return from captivity.[402] Called by the Greeks -Azotus, it was here that Philip the Evangelist was found after the -baptism of the eunuch.[403] But Ashdod is conspicuous in profane -history for having withstood a siege of twenty-nine years, when -invested by Psammetichus, king of Egypt, which is the longest siege -on record. - - Illustration: ASHDOD. - -Twenty miles to the north, situated on the coast, is ancient Joppa. -From Ashdod thither the route lies through one of the richest sections -of the Plain of Philistia. It is a gentle depression coming down from -the east, three miles wide, through the centre of which runs a deep, -winding torrent bed. The soil is loamy, and yields the finest grain -raised in Syria. Among the large and prosperous villages that dot its -fertile sides are Batâneah and El-Burka; but beyond this oasis the -land is stony and barren, and the wretched hovels of which the towns -are composed, together with the squalidity of the peasants, recall the -prophetic denunciation, “A bastard shall dwell in Ashdod, and I will -cut off the pride of the Philistines.”[404] Passing through Yebna, the -Jabneh of the Bible,[405] and leaving Ekron,[406] five miles to the -east the road crosses diagonally the great Wady Surâr, which drains the -western section of the Judean Hills from Hebron to Bethel. Less than -two miles from the sea are the remains of a Roman bridge which once -spanned the torrent, and from this ruin the path declines westward to -the coast, when, turning northward, it follows the beach to Yâfa. - -Standing upon a rock whose western base is washed by the Mediterranean, -Joppa is one of the oldest cities in the world. Though its authentic -history begins with the partitioning of Palestine into tribal -possessions, yet, according to Pliny, it existed prior to the Flood. -Called by Joshua Japho,[407] by Luke Joppa,[408] by the Arabs Yâfa, -and by the Franks Jaffa, it was originally allotted to the tribe of -Dan,[409] but remained in comparative obscurity till the reign of -Solomon, when it became the chief maritime city of his kingdom. Being -the nearest harbor to Jerusalem, the floats of pine and cedar from -Lebanon for the building of the first and second temples were landed -here,[410] and hence transported to the Holy City on the back of camels. -Centuries later, Jonah here embarked for Tarshish,[411] and in our own -era here lived the benevolent Tabitha, whom Peter restored to life,[412] -and here was the home of Simon, with whom the apostle lodged.[413] - -The only antiquity to detain the traveler a single hour is the -traditional house of Simon. Like all Eastern dwellings, it is -constructed of stone, square in form, with a flat roof, and may have -stood for centuries, as, without violence, it will endure for hundreds -of years to come. Standing near the seaside, both the location and -structure of the building are in harmony with the inspired narrative, -and a venerable tradition points to it as once the residence of -a tanner. The entrance is through a low gallery, before which the -servants of Cornelius stood inquiring for Peter. Within is a small -court-yard, containing a well of excellent water, and from the court -a stone staircase leads to the roof, from which I enjoyed a commanding -view of the sea, over whose blue waters had glanced the apostolic eye -as Peter sat beneath those clear expanded heavens from which descended -the symbolic sheet, opening to his Jewish understanding the purposes -of the divine mind. Plucking a leaf from the solitary tree adorning the -court, I entered the interior, which is now occupied by the Moslems as -a place of prayer, and by whom it is revered no less for its antiquity -than for its traditional sacredness. Excepting its gardens, Joppa is -neither clean nor beautiful. The streets are narrow and irregular, and -the best buildings have no claim to architectural elegance. Inclosed by -a stone wall, the city has a single gate, opening toward the east. Near -it, and around a pretty Saracenic fountain, are the famous fruit-bazars -of Jaffa, where are sold the finest oranges and lemons in the world. -Here also is the seat of justice, where the cadi[414] tries all civil -and criminal suits, sitting, as in Bible times,[415] in the gate of -the city. As of old, Joppa is a sea-port town of considerable trade, -and, if possessed of a good harbor, would be the most flourishing -maritime city of Palestine. The products of its immense fruit-orchards, -together with the silk and soap here manufactured, are exported in -large quantities to the cities on the Mediterranean coast. - - Illustration: JAFFA FROM THE NORTH. - -Possessing a population of 5000 souls, a fifth of whom are -Christians, 200 Jews, and the rest Moslems, the basis of social -and political distinction is religion rather than nationality. The -Mohammedans have several mosques, the Jews a synagogue, the Latins, -Greeks, and Armenians have each a convent, for the entertainment of -pilgrims _en route_ for the Holy City. - -Under the direction of Dr. Barclay, who combines the two professions -of physician and missionary, a society has here been formed called the -“Abrahamic Coalition,” the object of which is the gathering together in -one large community all the indigent Jews in the East, and locate them -on the Plain of Sharon, securing to each a small piece of land, and -otherwise aiding the colonists in practical agriculture. - -As illustrating the changeless character of Eastern customs, before -the door of our inn stood a magician performing astonishing feats with -serpents. A Nubian by birth, his face was black and glossy, his eyes -small and snakish, and his countenance expressive of great cunning. -With a smile, he drew from the ample folds of his bosom three large -black serpents, which had been nestling next his naked breast; and -caressing them in the fondest manner, he lifted them up to his neck, -and allowed them to entwine themselves about his head. Subject to the -will of their charmer, they obeyed his magical words, and the magician -of Joppa vividly recalled the magicians of Egypt.[416] - -Once more our faces were turned toward the Holy City. On leaving Joppa, -our path for half an hour lay between enormous hedges of the cactus -plant, inclosing orange and lemon groves, which cover an area of many -miles in extent. The air was surcharged with the fragrance of those -delicious fruits, and beneath the ladened trees lay heaps of lemons -and oranges, like apples in an American orchard. Charmed with a ride -so delightful, we were soon upon the Plain of Sharon, stretching -far to the northeastward, to the white and purple Hills of Benjamin. -Passing the hamlet of Yasûr on our left, in thirty minutes we entered -the pine-groves of Beit Dejân. The declining sun forewarning us of -approaching night, we gave loose rein to our horses, and bounded over -that glorious plain. As far as the eye could reach, crimson anemones, -tufts of lily leaves, and white and yellow daisies covered the ground -like a carpet of many colors, while here and there stood the shepherd’s -black tent, with herds and flocks around it, and on the evening air -came the soft notes of his flute. In the starlight away to the east, -like a dark column standing out against the sky of night, appeared the -solitary tower of Ramleh. At seven P.M. we were knocking at the iron -gate of the Latin Monastery, and, with a courtesy for which others have -not given them credit, the Franciscan brothers received us to their -retreat, while their tall and graceful superior entertained us with -an ease and dignity worthy a Christian gentleman. After an excellent -dinner in the refectory, a quiet-looking friar led us, by the light -of a single wax taper, across a dark court-yard to a small chamber -containing four beds, neat and clean, as if the work of a woman’s hand. - -Ramleh is nine miles to the southeast from Joppa, and is one of the -best-built towns on the Plain of Sharon. It is environed for miles -with fig-orchards and orange-groves. Containing a population of 3000 -inhabitants, the majority of whom are Greek Christians, tradition -identities Ramleh with the Ramah of Samuel, the birthplace of Nicodemus, -and the native city of Joseph of Arimathea. Chosen by the Crusaders to -be their southern rendezvous, it became the head-quarters of Richard -of England in 1191 A.D. Its chief architectural attraction is a noble -square tower 120 feet high, built of hewn stone, and standing a mile -to the west from the town, amid the ruins of a large quadrangular -inclosure. There is nothing, either in its construction or in history, -to indicate whether it it is the campanile of a Christian church or the -minaret of a mosque. A flight of stone steps, narrow and spiral, leads -to the top, from which is obtained a view of surpassing beauty. In all -its amplitude and richness, the Plain of Sharon spreads out before the -eye, extending from the roots of Carmel on the north, to the promontory -of Joppa on the south, and from the hills of Samaria and Judea on the -east, to the Mediterranean on the west; while on every hand appear -fields of grain, groves of fruit-trees, and towns, whose white domes -shine in the sunlight like diamonds in a circlet of emeralds. - - Illustration: RAMLEH, OR THE “LOOK-OUT.” - -A ride of forty minutes through an embowered avenue brought us to Ludd, -the Lod of the Old Testament,[417] and the Lydda of the New.[418] It is -an Arab town of 2000 inhabitants, and, though unsurpassed by the beauty -of its environs, it is neither remarkable for the elegance of its -buildings nor the regularity of its streets. To the Christian, Lydda -is interesting as the place where Peter cured Eneas of palsy, and where -he was stopping when he was informed of Tabitha’s death. To Englishmen -it is memorable as the birthplace of St. George, England’s patron -saint, and as containing his tomb, in which he was interred near the -close of the third century, after his martyrdom in Nicomedia, under -the relentless Diocletian. According to William of Tyre, the Emperor -Justinian reared a noble church over the ashes of the saint and martyr, -which, at a later period, was destroyed by the revengeful Moslems. -Rebuilt by Richard Cœur de Lion, it was partially destroyed again by -the troops of Saladin. The walls and a part of the vault of the eastern -niche of this monumental structure remain, adorned with pilasters, -capitals, and cornice. On the south side of the grand aisle is a -pointed arch of great elegance, supported by massive clustered columns -with marble Corinthian capitals, forming one of the most picturesque -ruins in Palestine. - - Illustration: CHURCH OF SAINT GEORGE. - -Forty minutes from Ludd we passed the town of Jimzu,[419] and just -beyond the road branched, one path diverging to the right, running -through Wady Suleimân, and the other ascending the steep acclivities -of Bethhoron the Nether. Though it is exceedingly rugged, yet, as -it passes over one of the grandest battle-fields in sacred history, -we chose the latter. Now began the toil of the journey. The verdure -had disappeared, and the white limestone rocks protruded above the -scanty soil, leaving only intervening patches of tillable land, which -was being plowed as we passed. Disobeying the divine command, and -disregarding the fitness of nature, a peasant was plowing with an ox -and an ass,[420] and another with an ass and a camel. Passing Um Rush -in two hours from Jimzu, we toiled up a mountain path, and at noon -reached Lower Bethhoron. Memorable in Bible history as the second -stage of the flight of the five kings of the Amorites, the roughness -of the scene is in harmony with the horrors of war. The surface of -the land is broken into circular rocky hills, around the base of which -equally stony valleys wind. From the hill-sides the rocks protrude like -terraces, rising with much regularity one above the other. The modern -town is perched on a rocky ridge, and called by the Arabs Beit ’Ur -et-Tahta. Amid its sterility a few half-naked peasants lay basking in -the genial sunshine of spring, who greeted us as we passed with a lazy -smile. Though located on the northwest border of Benjamin, the city -belonged to Ephraim, and from that tribe it was taken and allotted to -the Levites.[421] Passing over the roughest tract of land above the sea, -in less than an hour we reached Upper Bethhoron. Bearing the Arabic -name of Beit Ur el-Fôka, it is a small village, the huts of which -are composed of large hewn stones once belonging to more pretentious -buildings. Sturdy men sat smoking on the rocks, and near them women -were playing with their children. Among the maidens were the sheikh’s -daughters, who wore about the head a circlet of silver coins. These -ornaments are a maiden’s dowry. - -Surveying the surrounding country from the roof of the sheikh’s house, -the famous battle-field of Gibeon lay before me. Seven miles to the -southeast is Gibeon, whose conical summit is just hidden by the loftier -peaks of Benjamin. Less than three miles to the northwest is Lower -Bethhoron, and five miles to the south, on the summit of a long, low -ridge, is the small hamlet of Yâlo, the traditional site of Ajalon. -Between the two hills is the green valley of Ajalon, now called Merj -Ibn ’Omeir, expanding, as it opens, into the Plain of Philistia. Having -formed a powerful coalition, the chiefs of the Amorites, with the King -of Jerusalem at their head, had besieged the city of Gibeon. On the eve -of the battle the Gibeonites sent to Joshua for relief, whom they had -previously deceived into an alliance, and found him on the Plain of -Jericho. Though despising a treaty founded in craft, yet appreciating -the obligations of an oath above a temporary inconvenience, and guided -by the faint light of the stars, the Israelitish chieftain passed up -the Plain of Jericho to Wady Fârah, and, turning westward, he reached -the scene of the conflict, after a forced march by night, in the early -dawn of the next morning. Falling with irresistible surprise and power -upon the confederate kings, “he slew them with great slaughter at -Gibeon.” Flying before his victorious arms, the remnant went “along -the way that goeth up to Bethhoron.” Outstripping their pursuers, -the Amorites continued their flight “in the going down to Bethhoron.” -Reaching the ridge on which we stand with all his “mighty men” around -him, Joshua beheld the valley through which the fugitives were escaping, -and, despairing of overtaking them if the day was not prolonged, he -invoked the divine interposition in his behalf. Moved by a sublime -faith, he stretched forth the arm that bore the conqueror’s spear, -and, in the presence of all Israel, said, “Sun, stand thou still on -Gibeon, and thou, Moon, in the valley of Ajalon.” Respecting the faith -of his servant and answering his prayer, Jehovah interposed; “and the -sun stood still, and the moon stayed, until the people had avenged -themselves upon their enemies; and there was no day like that before -it or after it, that the Lord hearkened unto the voice of a man; for -the Lord fought for Israel.” Receiving more than he had asked for, -a hail-storm came to his assistance, and after it had accomplished -its terrible work, killing foes but sparing friends, Joshua and his -warriors descended the declivities of Bethlehem, and pressed the -remnant of a once proud foe so hard as to compel the five kings to -take refuge in the great cave of Makkedah, around which he encamped -for the night, and on the morrow hung the royal fugitives.[422] - -“God’s testimony is in the rocks.” The correspondence between the -inspired account and the facts as they now appear, after the lapse of -twenty-three centuries, illustrates the accuracy of sacred history. -The night’s march from Gilgal to Gibeon, a distance of less than -twenty-five miles, was not only possible, but can now be accomplished -by any ordinary pedestrian. The going up to Bethhoron the Upper, and -the going down to Bethhoron the Nether, correspond with the altitude -of the former from Gibeon, and the depression of the latter from Beit -el-Fôka. The relative locations of Gibeon and Ajalon to Upper Bethhoron, -and the probable position of the sun and moon in the heavens at that -time, agree with the statement as to where Joshua was when he invoked -the prolongation of the day; and his subsequent pursuit of the foe in -the direction of Azekah, Makkedah, and Jarmuth is confirmed by the -identification of those places. - -There is nothing in the text indicating that the prayer of Joshua -was offered late in the afternoon, and that, as Gibeon is on the east -of Upper Bethhoron and Ajalon on the west, therefore the sun could -not have stood still on the former nor the moon on the latter. It was -probably not noon when he invoked the lengthening of the day. The sun -had not yet passed the meridian of Gibeon, while over the western vale -of Ajalon the faint crescent of an old moon still lingered, just as -it appeared to me. Hence, standing between the two planets as they -rode high in the heavens above him, and between the two cities on the -earth, he gave forth his miraculous command with the utmost accuracy; -while from the western sea came that fearful hail-storm driving up the -valleys below, killing more than had been slain by the sword, and from -the eastern border of the otherwise dark storm-cloud was reflected the -light of the motionless sun and moon. - -Leaving Upper Bethhoron, our path lay for some time along the old -Roman road, sections of which remain as perfect as when the chariot -of the proud Cestius was driven over it. Turning to the southeast, in -two hours we reached the celebrated city of Gibeon. Like most Oriental -towns, it crowns the summit of a conspicuous hill, which, being -separated from the surrounding hills, rises in isolation from a noble -plain. The encircling plains are unsurpassed in Southern Palestine -for the richness of their soil, and their meadow-like smoothness and -verdure. Covering many acres are vineyards, olive-groves, and almond -orchards. Such is the peculiar formation of the hill on which the town -is built, that the rocks protruding from the sides serve the double -purpose of steps and terraces. Over the summit are scattered the small -stone buildings of El-Jib, which in part are composed of materials -of great antiquity. Without walls and gates, the city is destitute -of fortifications, and the crooked, unpaved streets are accessible to -all. The present inhabitants are an illustration that character, like -names, is transmitted from one generation to another. In their address -and shrewdness they resemble their ancestors. The Sheikh of Gibeon -is a man of medium height, and, unlike his countrymen, is emotional, -communicative, and exceedingly gracious. Pressing us to enter his -khan,[423] he refreshed us with coffee, and, failing to persuade us -to remain during the night, he accompanied us through the village, -and received our gifts with flowing eyes and many bows. Nor are the -children less crafty. Boys kissed our hand for paras, and for a piastre -the maidens at the fountains let down their pitchers from their heads -that we might drink. Reading the story of their ancestral cunning on -the spot, we could easily fancy their fathers gathering together the -emblems of deception to decoy the Israelites into an alliance that -brought protection to themselves, but war to their allies; and with -less difficulty their descendants could collect tattered garments, -clouted shoes, rent wine-skin bottles, musty bread, and jaded asses, -and with equal confidence declare themselves to be “embassadors from a -far country.” - - Illustration: GIBEON. - -Falling to the tribe of Benjamin in the division of the land,[424] -Gibeon afterward became a Levitical city.[425] Subsequently to the -destruction of Nob by Saul, it was the seat of the tabernacle till the -completion of the Temple.[426] On the eastern side of the hill is a -large well of delicious water. Springing up in a cave excavated in the -solid rock, the water was originally conducted to a reservoir below, -which measures 120 feet in length and 100 in breadth. Formerly it -was called the “Pool of Gibeon,” and around its peaceful waters the -rival armies of Israel and Judah met in battle. It was here that -Abner challenged Joab to terminate the strife by a gladiatorial fight -between twenty-four chosen men――twelve representing David, and twelve -representing Ishbosheth. But so equal were the champions in skill and -power, “that they caught every man his fellow by the head, and thrust -his sword in his fellow’s side, so they fell down together.”[427] The -death of all the combatants leaving the issue of the contest undecided, -the two armies sprang to the fight on the adjoining plain, and, after a -sore battle, Abner was defeated, and the claims of David to the kingdom -of all Israel were confirmed by a decisive victory.[428] Thirty-three -years after, by the “great stone which is in Gibeon,” in the same -highway now trodden by the feet of careless pilgrims, “Joab took Amasa -by the beard with the right hand to kiss him,” and, with a sword in the -other, treacherously slew his cousin.[429] - -But the glory of Gibeon is the dream and prayer of Solomon. Sanctifying -the morning of a long and eventful reign by acts of devotion, he came -from Jerusalem to worship the Lord. Upon a great altar which he had -reared he offered a thousand burnt sacrifices, and that night in a -dream he communed with the God of his fathers, and asking wisdom to -govern his kingdom rather than wealth and honor, he received a wise -and understanding heart.[430] - -A mile to the south, beyond a green and lovely plain, is Mizpeh――“The -Look-out”――one of the oldest watch-towers in Southern Palestine. With -it stand connected many of the most thrilling events in Jewish history. -Chosen in the infancy of the nation for the advantages it afforded -as a point of observation in times of war, it subsequently became -the national rendezvous, where the tribes were accustomed to meet to -worship Jehovah, to make war, to conclude peace, and elect a king. -Justly aggrieved at the insult offered the whole country by the -citizens of Gibeah in refusing to surrender the young men who had -committed the horrid crime on the person of the Levite’s concubine, -the eleven tribes here assembled, and, having vowed never to return to -their homes till the inhabitants of Gibeah were punished, they marched -forth to that series of battles in which thousands fell, and in which -the tribe of Benjamin was well-nigh exterminated.[431] Two hundred -and eighty-six years later, Samuel gathered the armies of Israel at -Mizpeh to fight against the Philistines, and after their return from -the slaughter of the foe he set up a memorial-stone and called it -Ebenezer.[432] A quarter of a century thereafter the nation reassembled -to choose a king; and here, for the first time in Israel, when the -people beheld the majestic form of Saul, the son of Kish, on whom the -lot had fallen, their loyal exclamations awakened the echoes of the -surrounding hills――“God save the king!”[433] Fortifying it for the -protection of his frontier, King Asa removed from Rama the materials -with which Baasha had constructed his battlements, and with them built -a strong fort. Five centuries after the coronation of Saul, Ishmael, -of the royal family of Judah, here surprised and assassinated Gedaliah, -the Chaldean governor, who, during the Jewish captivity, resided at -Mizpeh.[434] - -Called by the natives Neby Samwîl, after the honored son of Hannah, -the hill has an altitude of 600 feet above the surrounding plain. On -its evenly-terraced sides the fig and vine grow luxuriantly. The summit -is dotted with a few rude dwellings, composed of the remains of nobler -edifices. The ruins of departed greatness are every where visible, and -in the wall of a caravansary are imbedded shattered capitals and broken -columns. In rude mimicry of happier days, the peasants have excavated -small courts to the depth of several feet in the native rock in front -of their unpretending homes. Rising, as if by way of contrast, from -amid these hovels is a large but deserted mosque. Erected by the -Crusaders, it was originally a Christian church. Constructed in the -form of a Latin cross, the interior is ornamented with Saracenic arches. -Within is the traditional tomb of Samuel, which, unlike the sepulchres -of other prophets, has neither altar nor ornaments. Attached to the -mosque is a graceful minaret, which rises 100 feet above the summit -of the hill, from the balcony of which I obtained an extraordinary -view of Southern Palestine. As far as the eye could reach, the land of -Judea was spread out before me, broken by deep ravines and dotted with -conical hills. To the north was Gibeon, and beyond appeared Alaroth, -Beeroth, the dark peak of Ophrah, and the famous rock of Rimmon; lining -the distant horizon to the northeast were Gibeah of Saul, Michmash -of Jonathan, and the Hills of Gilead; over a forest of summits to the -east were the Mountains of Moab――that ever-visible wall of limestone; -beyond, the small hamlet of Hanîna; to the southeast rose the domes and -minarets of Jerusalem and Bethlehem, and the tomb-like form of Herodium; -to the south were the vine-clad hills of Hebron and the home of Samson; -while due west, and as far as the eye could penetrate north and south, -was the white shore of the Mediterranean, with the blue waters of the -sea mingling with the mists of the western sky. Such was the prospect -from Mizpeh, which, in the mighty past, often met the eye of Samuel, -Saul, and Solomon; and, though he occupied a stand-point a few miles to -the eastward, but of greater altitude, such must have been the vision -of Moses from the summit of Pisgah ere he entered into glory. - - - - - CHAPTER X. - - Northern Palestine. ―― Gibeah. ―― Birthplace of King Saul. ―― - Historical Events. ―― Thrilling Story of Rizpah watching her - Dead Sons. ―― Identity of the City. ―― Field of the Arrow. - ―― Parting of David and Jonathan. ―― Nob. ―― Massacre of the - Priests. ―― The View. ―― Birthplace of Jeremiah. ―― Geba. ―― - Pottage. ―― Benighted. ―― Yusef Shang, of Beeroth. ―― A Night - of strange Experience. ―― Town of Beeroth. ―― Ancient Bethel. - ―― Its Desolation. Site of the City. ―― Abraham’s Altar. ―― - Parting of Abraham and Lot. ―― The Fountain. ―― Jacob’s Flight - and Dream. ―― Idolatry. ―― Prophecy fulfilled. ―― Route to - Shiloh. ―― Romantic Scenery. ―― Robbers’ Fountain. ―― Wild - Glen. ―― Robbers. ―― Their Dance. ―― Sinjil. ―― Shiloh. ―― - Remains. ―― Site discovered in 1838. ―― Tower. ―― Damsels - of Shiloh carried off. ―― Death of Eli. ―― Approach of the - Robbers. ―― An Attack. ―― Resistance. ―― Again assailed. ―― - Again resist. ―― Revolvers drawn. ―― Escape. ―― Overtaken. - ―― Third Attack. ―― Revolvers in demand. ―― Sixteen against - Four. ―― Serious Moment. ―― One of the Party whipped. ―― Narrow - Escape. ―― Lebonah. ―― Ride to Nablous. ―― Grand View. ―― - Evening on the Plain of Mukhrah. ―― Antiquity of Nablous. ―― - History. ―― Its beautiful Situation. ―― Population. ―― Inside - View of the Town. ―― Character of the People. ―― Christian - School. ―― Origin of the Samaritans. ―― Remnant of the Nation. - ―― Their Creed. ―― Their religious Peculiarities. ―― Their - High-priest. ―― Their sacred Writings. ―― Vale of Shechem. - ―― Its Length and Beauty. ―― Cursings and Blessings of the - Law. ―― The Scene. ―― Great Congregation. ―― Twin Mountains. - ―― Jacob’s Well. ―― History. ―― Sweet Water. ―― Evidence of - its Antiquity. ―― Jesus at the Well. ―― Woman of Samaria. ―― - Accuracy of its evangelical History. ―― Well Sold. ―― Tomb of - Joseph. ―― Symbol of his Life. ―― Ascent of Mount Ebal. ―― - Twenty Lepers. ―― Ascent of Mount Gerizim. ―― Almond-groves. - ―― Ruins on the Summit. ―― Holy of Holies of the Samaritans. - ―― Traditions. ―― Not the Scene of the Offering of Isaac. ―― - Samaritan Passover. ―― Impressive Moment. ―― Lambs slain. ―― - The Feast. - - -THE day was all that the most romantic tourist or thoughtful traveler -could have desired, when, at three o’clock on Monday afternoon, in -the month of April, we left Jerusalem for the last time, on our long -tour through Northern Palestine. Passing out of the Damascus Gate, I -ascended the rocky ridge over the grotto of Jeremiah, and looked down -upon the Holy City with the fondness of one bidding adieu to the scenes -of his childhood. A gentle breeze was blowing from the Western Sea, and -the flag of our country floated from the summit of Zion. The clattering -of horses’ hoofs on the pavements below told me my companions were -coming, and, turning to the northwest, the “City of the Great King” -faded forever from my view. Crossing the hill Scopus, we were soon -on the great caravan route leading from Egypt to Damascus. For half -an hour our path lay through an open and undulating country, when it -passed between two conical hills――Shâfât on the west, and Nob on the -east. Less than a mile beyond the latter is Gibeah, the birthplace of -King Saul.[435] Called by the Arabs Tuleil el-Fûl――“the Hill of the -Beans”――it resembles a perfect cone when viewed from a distance. Rising -from a rich plain, it is an object of universal attraction. Terraced -from base to summit, it presents to the eye a beautiful appearance, as -the green circles of corn mingle with the white limestone soil. On the -summit are the remains of a tower or palace, fifty-six feet long and -forty-eight wide, and by some unknown force the huge blocks of stone -have been thrown together in a form not unlike a pyramid. - -Few places in the Holy Land fill so large a space in the inspired -volume as Gibeah. Coming from Bethlehem on his way to Mount Ephraim, -the unfortunate Levite at nightfall turned in hither, and was received -into the house of a peasant. That night was committed an offense by -the young men of the city, which resulted in one of the most terrible -battles on record. To punish the offenders and avenge the insult, -around this hill all Israel gathered for battle against the Benjamites, -and, though the former were repeatedly repulsed, they at length -triumphed and well-nigh exterminated the tribe of Benjamin.[436] Three -centuries later, after the death of all the actors in that mournful -tragedy, Gibeah rose to royal significance. Here resided Kish, unto -whom was born Saul, than whom “there was not among the children of -Israel a goodlier person than he; from his shoulders and upward he was -higher than any of the people.”[437] From here his father sent Saul to -recover the strayed asses, and, while looking for the asses, he found -a kingdom. Returning from Rameh after his coronation, he chose Gibeah -as the seat of his new government.[438] From this first royal city in -Palestine he went forth to fight his first battle, which was against -the Ammonites, who had besieged Jabesh-gilead.[439] After his rejection -by Samuel at Gilgal, hither Saul returned in disgrace;[440] and it -was here, in those dark days of disappointment which followed, that -an evil spirit came upon him, and, to soothe his troubled soul by the -soft music of his harp, the shepherd-boy of Bethlehem was summoned to -the king’s presence.[441] Here the high-minded Jonathan conceived his -more than woman’s love for the son of Jesse.[442] Forgetting earlier -attachments and David’s well-earned renown, here, in a fit of passion, -Saul threw his javelin at the youthful warrior.[442] Here he gave his -daughter Michal in marriage to David;[442] and here the true-hearted -wife rescued her persecuted husband from the murderous hand of her -father, and deceived the king by placing an image in her bed.[443] Here -the unwilling Michal was given to Phalti,[444] and from Gibeah Saul and -his sons went forth to the fatal battle of Gilboa.[445] - -Forty years after the death of the king the tragical history of Gibeah -closed, as it had commenced, in a scene of blood. For an offense, the -history of which is neither recorded by sacred or profane writers, the -Almighty sent a famine of three years’ continuance upon the land, and -when David inquired of the Lord the cause, he was informed, “It is for -Saul and for his bloody house, because he slew the Gibeonites.”[446] -Josephus supposes that Saul had violated the treaty which Joshua had -made with the men of Gibeon, and had attempted to slay the entire -population of the city. Wishing to relieve his kingdom from the -miseries of a famine, David summoned the Gibeonites to his presence, -to ascertain the nature of the redress they demanded. They demanded the -surrender of seven of the descendants of Saul to be hung in Gibeah, and -their request was granted. Five of the victims were the sons of Merab, -whom Michal had brought up after her sister’s death, and the other -two were the sons of Saul by his wife Rizpah.[447] On the same day the -sons and grandsons of Israel’s first king were executed together, to -expiate the offense of a father long since dead. Less fortunate than -the offspring of Merab, the sons of Rizpah left a mother to mourn -their untimely end. For tenderness of affection, for the depth of -maternal grief, and for the lengthened period of watching and mourning, -the story of Rizpah has no parallel in the literature of any nation. -David’s sorrow for Absalom was sincere, keen, and overwhelming, but the -grief of Rizpah was the sorrow of a mother. “And Rizpah, the daughter -of Aiah, took sackcloth and spread it for her upon the rock, from the -beginning of harvest until water dropped upon them out of heaven, and -suffered neither the birds of the air to rest upon them by day, nor -the beasts of the fields by night.” Such was the mournful spectacle -that that broken-hearted mother presented to all who passed by, sitting -beside the bones of her dead sons all through the long Syrian summer, -from April till October, neither permitting the vulture to prey upon -them by day nor the hyena by night. Time had assuaged her grief, and -David ordered that the bones of her sons should be interred with those -of Saul and Jonathan, in the country of Zelah, in the sepulchre of -Kish.[448] - -The identity of Gibeah as the scene of so many important events -is sustained by evidence no less abundant than indubitable. In his -description of the march of Titus to Jerusalem, Josephus informs us -that the Roman general halted at Gibeah, thirty stadia from Jerusalem, -which exactly corresponds with the distance between this hill and the -Jewish capital. During the night a Roman legion, coming from Emmaus, -joined the main army here, where is the point of junction between the -two great routes from the north and west, and on the following morning -the combined forces moved on to Scopus, from whence they beheld the -Holy City. Three centuries later, Jerome, in describing the journey of -Lady Paula to Jerusalem, represents her as coming up from Joppa _via_ -the two Bethhorons, with Ajalon and Gibeon on the right, and stopping -at Gibeah, where “she called to mind the old story of the Levite and -his concubine.” Thus the crimes of a city perpetuate the memory of its -site. - -South of Gibeah is the field which contained the stone Ezel, where -occurred the affecting interview between David and Jonathan, and where -the latter discharged the signal arrow for the escape of the former. -Behind one of the many jutting rocks which here lift their naked crowns -on high the fugitive found a hiding-place, where he remained till, -according to a previous agreement, Jonathan came, shot an arrow beyond -a little lad, and cried, “Is not the arrow beyond thee?” which was -the signal that Saul was intent on killing David. The two friends -met, embraced, and wept; and, after renewing their covenant, Jonathan -returned to Gibeah, and David fled to Nob. His presence excited the -fears of the priest Abimelech, which he soon, however, allayed by a -plausible story, and from his hand received the sword of Goliath, and -the shew-bread to which our Lord alludes.[449] It was because of this -kindness to a public enemy that Abimelech was summoned to the presence -of the enraged king, and sentenced to death by him, with all of his -father’s house. Revering the sacred person of a priest, no Israelite -would execute the royal sentence. The work of executioner fell to the -lot of Doeg, the stranger, the shepherd, and the spy. Unappeased by -the slaughter of eighty-five innocent priests, Saul smote the city of -Nob with the edge of the sword.[450] Two places are designated as the -probable site of this ancient Levitical city――one containing the famous -tomb of El-Messahney, near the Tombs of the Judges, and the other a -conical peak less than a mile to the south from Gibeah. The former has -the advantage of an acknowledged Jewish sepulchre, while the latter has -that of location. - -The view from the summit of Gibeah is as interesting as it is -commanding. Three miles to the southeast is Anâta, the Anathoth of the -Bible and the birthplace of Jeremiah. Never large, it still retains -its diminutive proportions. Standing on a low, broad ridge, surrounded -by green fields, twenty huts occupy the site of this once priestly city. -Of the ancient town all that now remains are portions of an old wall, -a spacious cistern, and fragments of marble columns. It was hither -Solomon banished Abiathar for attempting to raise Adonijah to the -throne of his father David.[451] But Anathoth is chiefly significant -as the native city of the greatest of prophets, whose courage was equal -to his danger, whose fortitude never forsook him, and whose zeal for -God was only excelled by the terribleness of his persecutions. In the -darkest hour of his country’s history, Jeremiah was called to lament -the desolations of Zion, to reprove kings, and to die for the truth. -Offended at the severity of his denunciations, his townsmen drove him -from the place of his birth, and, flying to Jerusalem for refuge, his -fidelity to God, his unblanched courage in reproving royal crimes, and -his horrid pictures of coming ruin, evoked the angry passions of those -whom he would have reformed, and the plaintive bard of Israel was added -to the long but honored list of martyrs. - -Turning to the northwest, the tower of Geba of Benjamin was -visible,[452] and three miles beyond were the rocks of Michmash, where -Jonathan surprised and defeated the Philistines, and where are still -to be seen the famous rocks Bozez and Seneh.[453] After glancing at -other memorable places, which, together with those mentioned, we had -previously visited, we descended from the summit of the hill, and at -its base entered a noble field of lentiles or pottage, such as Esau -sold his birthright for.[454] When young it resembles a pea-vine. It -grows to the height of eight inches, and when harvested it is pulled -like flax. It is cooked like beans, with the exception that the water -is allowed to evaporate, when the softened grain is stewed with butter -and onions, making a delicious dish, and one worth a birthright to a -famishing hunter. - -The sun was setting, and the shadow of the mountains darkened the -plains when we resumed our journey. The lateness of the hour required -dispatch, and Beeroth, the place where we were to spend the night, was -six miles to the north. Unfortunately we were without a guide, and our -path was simply a camel track, devious, stony, and uncertain. Though -we knew the general direction of Beeroth, yet the number of small -villages in the vicinity, the growing darkness, and the uncertainty -of the road, baffled all effort to find the place. Overtaking an Arab -belonging to Beit Untâh, he agreed for a present to serve us as guide. -Not suspecting deception, we followed him nearly to his own town, which -he assured us was the desired place. But knowing from our maps that -Beeroth was to the right of the path, and Beit Untâh to the left, we -refused to follow him farther. Truth is an unknown virtue in the Arab -character, and he who confides in it leans upon a broken reed. For the -paltry sum which a night’s lodging would bring, this man was leading us -astray. - -A solitary light shone from a hut in Beeroth, when, turning eastward, -we traversed plowed fields, leaped ditches, crossed ravines, and rued -the day we had presumed to travel without a guide. Reaching a fountain, -the waters of which sparkled in the starlight, we regained the path. -Having a letter of introduction from Dr. Sandreczki, of Jerusalem, -to one Yûsef Shang, a Christian Arab, and the scribe of the town, we -inquired for him; but, to add to our mishaps, Yûsef was not at home. -There we were, homeless, foodless, friendless, and in the dark. An -old Arab dame, however (heaven pity her homeliness and reward her -kindness!), knew where Yûsef was, and called him to our aid. - -Yûsef Shang was a noble specimen of the Arab race. He was of medium -height, well built, of full habit, with towering brow, large black eyes, -handsome nose, a large, joyous mouth, and a heavy, flowing beard, which -was white as snow, and beautifully contrasted the deep olive hue of -his manly face. His countenance was at once benignant and intelligent. -Besides, Yûsef was a clean Arab――a rarity worth a pilgrimage to see. -His red boots, light-colored petticoat-trowsers, embroidered jacket, -broad girdle, flowing robes of yellow Broussa silk, and a bright -checkered turban, were neat enough for a picture. In his silken girdle -he wore a brass inkhorn, a foot in length, with a small square bulb of -the same material on the side near the end, rendered perfectly tight by -a thin plate of the same metal, and containing in the long part a case -for the reed pens, which are secured by a brass cap. His appearance -recalled Ezekiel’s description of the man clothed with linen, with a -writer’s inkhorn by his side.[455] - -In the East there is a class of men, called scribes, who write for -the common people. They sit at the corners of the streets, and persons -wishing a letter written dictate the matter, while the scribe performs -the penmanship. Deeming it an inelegance to write upon a table, the -paper is placed upon the left hand, and the writer forms the graceful -characters of the Arabic language, writing from right to left. Yûsef -was such a scribe, and had risen to eminence in his profession. Having -read our letter with an air of great consideration, he saluted us -in the most gracious manner, and invited us to his abode. Following -him through a narrow lane to the gate of his court, we dismounted, -and, after removing saddles and saddle-bags, led our horses through -a covered stone passage-way to the entrance of his dwelling. Yûsef’s -superb dress and elegant bearing had prepared us to expect an -entertainment not unlike the festive scenes so wondrously described in -the Arabian Nights. But never were two things more unlike, and never -was the outside of the plates cleaner nor the inside filthier. His -house was a wretched stone hut, entered by a low doorway. The interior -consisted of a single room, divided into two apartments by a raised -platform a foot high. The platform served the triple purpose of kitchen, -chamber, and parlor, the walls and ceiling were dingy with smoke and -dirt, and a few old mats spread upon the floor were the only furniture -of his home. At the foot of the platform, beneath the same roof, was -his stable, and in one corner stood Yûsef’s favorite ass. - -“Come in, come in, gentlemen,” cried our host, “and bring your horses -with you; there is plenty of room, and you are welcome.” Leading my -horse, I entered; but the ass brayed so furiously, and kicked with -such rapidity and violence, that I was compelled to retreat. Despite -my protest, Yûsef refused to turn his ass into the cold, and calmly -suggested that I could take my horse on the platform with me. Refusing -to turn Arab, I declined, and turned to procure quarters elsewhere. -The power of money upon an Arab’s soul is above calculation. Fearing -that he might lose the customary present in return for his hospitality, -Yûsef led his ass forth, braying and kicking as it went. Our host had -previously sent the female members of his family away, lest the eye of -a stranger should fall upon them, and left us the sole occupants of his -dwelling. Spreading our blankets upon the platform, we commenced our -frugal repast, but the fleas of Beeroth came upon us in such numbers -as to force another retreat. We were again houseless. The sky was clear -and the stars shone softly upon us, and we determined to sleep beneath -the pure starlit heavens. Yûsef, however, succeeded in procuring -for our use the council-room of the town, which was a large square -apartment, with heavy arched ceiling, fireplace, and niche. The walls -were black with the smoke of years, and the atmosphere stale and -noisome. Here we spread our mats, and, with a saddle for a pillow, -spent the night. The ground floor of the building was occupied by a -family, who, for a few piastres, sheltered my horse. It was here I -had an illustration of the story of Bethlehem. The same room served -as a dwelling and a stable, divided by a platform, on which an Arab -woman was kneading bread and a lad was tending an infant child. The -occupants’ ass having been turned out, I led my horse in. In one corner -of the stable was a large stone manger, excavated in the living rock. -Such, probably, was the internal arrangement of the inn at Bethlehem; -and as the platform was occupied by other guests, Joseph and Mary -lodged in the stable, and cradled the infant Savior in the stone manger. - -Beeroth is situated on a rocky ridge, and contains a population of -800 Moslems and thirty Christians. It is mentioned in connection with -the league formed between the embassadors of Gibeon and Joshua, but -aside from this it has no scriptural significance. During the reign of -the Latin kings it rose to importance, and the remaining ruins attest -the antiquity of the site and the former elegance of the place. In the -northwest part of the village is the old Gothic church, built by the -Knights Templars centuries ago. It is a beautiful ruin, and reminds -one of the ruined abbeys of Southern Scotland. The walls, the eastern -apse, and the sacristy are standing, and inclose an area 100 feet -long and sixty-three wide. The material is limestone well dressed, -and the interior may have consisted of a nave, two lateral aisles, -and three recesses in the eastern end. The finish of the architecture -is exquisite. The apses are crowned with beautiful domed roofs, and -the partition walls are ornamented with pilasters, the capitals of -which are well preserved. The side walls are divided into sections by -pilasters, and are decorated with a rich cornice. But it is now a green -ruin. The grass grows where, of old, knights knelt in prayer, and where -robed priests chanted their Ave Marias. - -On leaving the church I witnessed a beautiful illustration of our -Lord’s parable of the “good shepherd.” Three shepherds were leading -their flocks to pasture, and, though near each other, there was -neither confusion nor intermingling. Such is the richness of the native -language in adjectives, that a shepherd gives to each member of his -flock a name descriptive of some characteristic, which is as familiar -to the sheep as to himself. A lamb had lingered behind picking the -fresh grass of spring, and, though other voices were sounding at the -time, the truant lamb heard its shepherd’s voice and ran to the fold. -“The sheep hear his voice, and he calleth his own sheep by name.”[456] - -Three miles to the north is ancient Bethel. As we advanced the country -grew in richness and beauty, reminding us that we were approaching the -favored inheritance of Ephraim. Passing a small fountain gushing from -the foot of a cliff, in less than half an hour we knelt in prayer where, -twenty-five centuries ago, Jacob slept to dream of angels. The silence -of desolation now reigns where once was heard the voice of gladness. -Quietly a few maidens came to the fountain, as in the days of the -patriarchs, whose homes stand amid the débris of former glory. The -ancient city occupied a low ridge between two small valleys, which -converge on the southeast and run into Wady Suweinît, the great -thoroughfare to Ai and Jericho. Portions of foundations, fragments -of walls, and heaps of hewn stone cover an area of four acres. On the -summit of the hill are the remains of a square tower, and to the south -of it are the walls of a Greek church. Beyond the town, to the east, is -the mountain on which Abraham pitched his tent and built an altar unto -the Lord, having Bethel on the west and Ai on the east;[457] and there, -three years later, he and his nephew stood, choosing different portions -of the land for their respective flocks.[458] From the summit of that -ridge, the whole plain of the Jordan, which so charmed the eyes of Lot, -is seen; and the possessions of six of the tribes lay before the vision -of Abraham, to whom the Lord on that occasion repeated the promise to -give the whole land to his servant. - -A few feet from the hill, located in the western valley, is the great -Fountain of Bethel. It is inclosed with an oblong basin 314 feet long -and 217 wide, which is constructed of large stones, many of which are -yet _in situ_. The southern wall is still entire, but, owing to long -disuse, the others are nearly gone. Grass now covers the bottom of the -reservoir, and beautiful flowers bloom around the crystal spring. - -It was probably in this lovely valley that Jacob had his wondrous -vision. He had come from Beersheba, a distance of seventy miles. This -long journey, however, is not in harmony with the common belief that -the dream occurred on the first night after leaving his father’s house. -Urged on by the dread of an injured brother, he slept the first night -beside the graves of his ancestors at Hebron, thirty-six miles from -the patriarchal groves of Beersheba; rising early and passing through -the vineyards of Eshcol, he rested at noon the next day at Bethlehem, -seventeen miles from Hebron, and near the spot where, twenty years -later, he buried his beautiful Rachel; six miles beyond he passed -Jerusalem on the right, the future capital of his mighty posterity; and -late in the evening of the second day, the stranger and weary traveler -reached Bethel, eleven miles farther northward. The gates of the city -were closed, and, like the pilgrim Arab of to-day, he selected a stone -for his pillow, and, wrapping his capote or cloak about him, lay down -to peaceful slumber. In a land where customs never change, such beds -and pillows are not uncommon now, and thus are explained not only the -story of the fugitive, but also our Lord’s command to the sick of the -palsy, “Arise, take up thy bed, and walk.”[459] The bed was simply a -coarse thick cloak of camel’s hair. - -In this retired vale, and beside this same fountain, Jacob dreamed of -the Invisible, and awoke exclaiming, “How dreadful is this place! This -is none other but the house of God, and this is the gate of heaven.” -Here the shining ones came down, and here Jehovah calmed the troubled -spirit of the sleeper by the promise of protection. Cheered by the -gracious promises of the Almighty, Jacob awoke, and, as a memorial -monument, set up the stone that had served as a pillow, and anointed -it with oil to seal the covenant he had made. Whether he was the first -to conceive of building a church to God, and whether that is the sense -of the text, Bethel became a sanctuary for his descendants.[460] When -he returned after an absence of twenty years, here the faithful Deborah -died, and he buried her under an oak, to which he gave the name of -Allon Bachuth――“the oak of weeping.”[461] Destined to live in history -in all coming time, Bethel became the scene of many great and thrilling -events. It was the place where Samuel held his circuit court, in -connection with Mizpah and Gilgal.[462] Subsequently to the death of -Solomon, and the rending in twain of his vast empire, Bethel became the -imperial rival of Jerusalem, and was polluted with an idol temple, in -which Jeroboam placed a golden calf. It was against this abomination -the prophet cried: “O altar, altar, thus saith the Lord, Behold, a -child shall be born unto the house of David, Josiah by name; and upon -thee shall he offer the priests of the high places that burn incense -upon thee, and men’s bones shall be burnt upon thee.”[463] Offended -at the boldness of the seer, the king sought to smite him, but in the -attempt his arm was smitten with paralysis.[464] On this slope lived -the old prophet who over-persuaded the Lord’s servant to enter his -house, contrary to the divine injunction, and by the wayside is the -tomb in which both were interred.[465] Chosen for its central location, -years later Bethel became a school for the prophets, and hither Elijah -came on the day of his translation.[466] And three centuries and a half -after the utterance of the prediction, Josiah destroyed the temple and -altar of Jeroboam, but spared the tomb of the Judæan seer.[465] - -To-day Bethel is a witness against herself. Her hills and valleys are -barren, and her ruins are the evidences of her decay. God has forsaken -her; his will is done; his word is fulfilled. “Seek not Bethel, nor -enter into Gilgal; for Gilgal shall surely go into captivity, and -Bethel shall come to naught.”[466] The roll of twenty-five centuries -has confirmed the prophetic announcement, and time and ruins are the -credentials of the prophet. In vain we searched for the memorials of -the past. Neither Abraham’s altar, nor Jacob’s pillar, nor Deborah’s -oak, nor Jeroboam’s temple, nor the school of the prophets, could be -found. These all have perished, and Bethel mourns her departed glory. -The heavens are sealed; the ladder is withdrawn; the angels descend no -more; and faith, hope, and charity are the only remaining steps by -which to reach the heavenly world. - -From the brow of a western hill, and through the dim distance of -twelve miles, I saw the dome of Omar’s Mosque, the lofty minaret of the -Haram, and the Tower of Hippicus. With this last and unexpected view -of Jerusalem we resumed our tour to the north. For a mile the country -was broken, but beyond were olive-groves and fig-orchards, extending -for miles on either hand. The path soon descended a steep, narrow, and -rough torrent-bed, and, after an hour’s ride, it entered the charming -valley of El-Jîb. Unsurpassed for the beauty and romantic character -of its scenery, it abruptly contracts into a wild gorge, and, two -miles from its mouth, it contains a gem of a fountain, called ’Ain -el-Haramîyeh, or “The Robbers’ Fountain.” Here the glen is as lovely -as it is wild, and as bloody in its history as it is dangerous to the -unwary traveler. The mountains rise in solemn grandeur on the right -and left, shutting out the world, and casting a melancholy shade on the -scene below. High up on a jutting cliff is an old castle, gray with age, -and covered with moss and creeping vines. Through the bottom of the -glen a fierce winter torrent has cut a deep and narrow channel, leaving -a broad level space on either side. On the right runs the road to -Shiloh; on the left is a small plateau, level and green, and extending -inward to the mountain’s base. Down the sides of the western cliff -the water trickles, through trails of fern and over beds of velvet -moss, into an artificial basin. The plateau is covered with grass, and -beneath it is a large reservoir, now a garden. Charmed with the spot, -desire inclined us to linger, but prudence warned us to depart. The -waters of El-Haramîyeh have washed the bloodstained hands of many a -highwayman, and the native of to-day hurries on conscious of danger -nigh. A band of robbers were encamped upon the lawn when we reached -the fountain. Some were whiffing their narghilehs; others were testing -their strength in gymnastic sports, while around the captain of the -band two girls were dancing to the music of timbrel and castanets. -They returned our salutations, and, after drinking of the cool, sweet -water, and plucking a few ferns as mementoes, we recrossed the channel, -and began to ascend toward Shiloh. As we advanced the scenery assumed -higher forms of sublimity. The mountains approached each other, and -rose to the clouds; but when, in turn, the hills receded and the -valleys opened, the former were terraced and clad with vineyards, -and the latter planted with wheat and corn. Attired in gay costumes, -peasant-girls were at work on the terraces, singing merrily; shepherds, -with long guns thrown across their shoulders, were winding with their -flocks around the loftier cliffs; while far away to the northwest, -following the devious mountain-paths, were trains of camels and asses, -whose tinkling bells awakened the echoes of the everlasting hills. More -than once we dismounted to gather the tempting wild-flowers, and press -the pretty anemones, poppies, amaranths, and white-thorn roses. - -Reaching the head of the valley, we left Sinjil on the west to visit -ancient Shiloh. Before us lay a broad fertile plain, running toward the -Jordan, and in the midst of which stands the Arab town of Turmus ’Aya. -To the north of the village the path leads up a gentle acclivity, and -then, descending into a narrow valley, it gradually ascends through -cultivated fields to the hill on which the renowned city of Samuel -stood. At the southern base of the hill stands an old square tower, -originally a mosque, and over it a large oak spreads its ample branches. -The surrounding hills are round and naked, the valleys narrow and stony, -and the landscape featureless and forbidding. Covering a low ridge, -projecting from the central chain of mountains, are the scattered ruins -of Shiloh. Consisting of heaps of hewn stone, with now and then a -broken column, the remains are embedded in rank weeds and tall grass, -and destitute of the ordinary attractions of a fallen city. Near them -is an old ruined church, which, in the age of the Crusaders, served as -a fortress. The walls, four feet thick, are supported by buttresses. -Over the entrance is a sculptured _amphora_, between two wreaths, and -within the inclosure are a few fallen Corinthian columns. Half a mile -to the east, in a wild glen, is the famous fountain of Shiloh, issuing -from the rocks, and flowing into a deep reservoir, where shepherds -water their flocks. - -From the days of Jerome to the year 1838 the site of Shiloh -remained unknown, when the analogy between the ancient and modern -names, together with a single verse in the Book of Judges, enabled a -distinguished American traveler[467] to determine its long-lost site. -Called by the Arabs Seilûn, he judged it the Arabic rendering of the -more euphonious name of Shiloh, and, guided by the minute and accurate -description of the location by the elders of Israel, he succeeded in -identifying the place. Nothing can be more artless and correct than -that remarkable passage, “Behold, there is a feast of the Lord in -Shiloh yearly, in a place which is on the north side of Bethel, on the -east side of the highway that goeth up from Bethel to Shechem, and on -the south of Lebonah.”[468] Though destitute of those monuments which -have given historic significance to its name, the pleasures of a visit -to this celebrated city are to be derived from the recollections of the -past rather than from the grandeur of its antiquities. - -Memorable as the place where the Tabernacle was first permanently set -up in Canaan, and where the Ark remained from the days of Joshua till -near the close of Eli’s life, it was here the Israelites assembled -to divide the land into tribal possessions according to lot.[469] To -fulfill a solemn vow, hither the pious Hannah brought her infant Samuel -from Ramah to serve in the Tabernacle.[470] As the custodians of the -Ark, from here Hophni and Phinehas went forth to the fatal battle -of Ebenezer, and here by the wayside the venerable Eli expired when -he heard of the capture of that Ark and the death of his sons.[471] -Here the son of a mother, overwhelmed with grief at such calamities, -received the name of I-chabod, “The glory is departed from Israel.”[471] -In a glen to the east of the town was held that feast at which the -daughters of Shiloh were dancing when the 200 Benjamites rose suddenly -from the encircling vineyards, and, rushing on the unsuspecting damsels, -captured each man a bride, whom he bore in triumph to his home.[472] -Disguised like a peasant, hither came the wife of Jeroboam from Tirzah -to inquire of the Prophet Ahijah concerning the life of her son.[473] - -Having become the seat of impiety, the city fell under the curse of the -Almighty, and, in the words of Jeremiah, it was doomed to its present -shapeless and desolate condition: “Go ye now unto my place which was in -Shiloh, where I set my name at first, and see what I did to it for the -wickedness of my people Israel.”[474] - -It was amid the recollection of such events that the robbers of -Shiloh made their appearance and commenced an unprovoked assault upon -our party. We had been forewarned of the turbulent character of the -people, and of the danger a visit involved. At Sinjil we had discussed -the prudence of a detour to this place, and, though it was a bold -and hazardous step, as the sequel proved, yet we resolved to advance. -We were in search of the most important knowledge, and, trusting -to a gracious Providence, we felt justified in making the attempt. -Unfortunately, our servant at the time was at Nablous, awaiting our -arrival there, and, being without escort or guide, we were compelled -to employ a peasant whom we had chanced to meet in a neighboring field. -He was a simple, inoffensive, unarmed man, and was of no advantage to -us except to guide us to the site of Seilûn. Having seen us from their -mountain fastnesses, the robbers rapidly congregated around the old -stone tower, where, at the moment, we were reading the inspired story -of the place, and recording those reflections suggested by the hour. - -Such another band of villainous-looking men Nature has scarcely ever -suffered to dwell upon the earth. Some were without a nose, others -without an eye, while all bore scars of previous fights, and wore a -vicious countenance which promised us no good. Each ruffian was armed -with a long gun and a missile not unlike an Indian tomahawk. One, more -reckless than the rest, began the fray by plundering my saddle-bags; -but, seeing with what determination I drew my revolver, he immediately -desisted. Wishing, if possible, to avoid another collision, we -attempted to cross a corn-field to the hill on which Shiloh’s ruins -lay scattered, but they seized us and drove us back. Knowing that every -moment’s delay diminished our chances of escape, we concluded to resume -our journey――peaceably if possible, but forcibly if we must. But we -had no sooner mounted our horses than the brigands seized the bridles -and demanded our money. Another exhibition of our well-conditioned -revolvers――which by them is a dreaded weapon――again saved us from their -hands, and, putting spurs to our horses, we descended a narrow valley -on the south of Shiloh, keeping an eye upon the robbers, who were after -us at full speed. But the bottom of the valley soon became so rough -that it was impossible to proceed faster than a walk. Having overtaken -us, they still clamored for money, and evinced their purpose to renew -the attack. At that moment my horse stumbled, throwing me on his head; -but, springing back into the saddle, and jerking the reins with all -the strength at my command, I saved him from going down. My haversack, -however, had fallen off, and one of the ruffians, having picked it up, -refused to return it without a reward. Fortunately, the small amount -I gave him satisfied him, and to that man I owe my life. Among the -plants I had gathered at Shiloh was one of curious structure, which I -desired to preserve. Its large bright green leaves were so folded as to -resemble an embossed star, but it was a deadly poison. Having dropped -it, I called to the Arab to pluck another, but he refused, assuring me -in Arabic that it was poisonous. - -We now dismissed the peasant previously employed, giving him the -promised sum. This proved our misfortune, as the robbers, becoming -exasperated at the favor shown their neighbor, came upon us with -renewed fierceness in a solitary mountain pass. They had the advantage -in numbers, and a base indifference to human life. Sixteen against -four gave us but little hope of successful resistance; but, unwilling -to yield even against such odds, we determined to resist to the last. -Rushing upon us with the utmost fury, they seized our bridles, and, -raising their tomahawks over our heads, demanded our money or our lives. -Refusing to give the former, we resolved to protect the latter. Having -never seen the countenance of a bandit in the act of violence, I shall -never forget the expression of the ruffian who assailed me. His face -was livid with rage, and his solitary eye blazed with murderous intent -as he grasped the bridle firmly with one hand and with the other raised -the weapon of death over me. Undaunted either by his rage or threats, -I held a parley with him for several minutes, he demanding, and I, in -turn, refusing. Trying the power of religious fear, I pointed him to -heaven, and repeated the sacred name of “Allah,” but he smiled like a -demon, and fiercely replied, “Give me your money!” - -Our firmness would have saved us from violence had not a member of -our party, in an unguarded moment, struck one of the brigands with a -riding-whip, which precipitated the assault, and it was now baksheesh -or death. Aware that by this act we had become the aggressors, we -concluded to give each a few piastres. Happily for myself, I had not -a piastre in change, but, borrowing half a one (two cents) from a -companion, I gave it to the villain, whose fury had been cooled by firm -looks, strong words, a Damascus blade, and a good revolver. - -Grouping together, they counted the spoils, but, finding the booty -less than they had expected, they attempted another pursuit, but we -had eluded their grasp. Dashing down the glen, we reached in safety the -small village of Lubbân――the Lebonah of the Judges,[475] grateful to -divine Providence that, through Arab cowardice and Christian grace, no -blood had been shed. - -The day was now far spent. Three hours of hard riding were before -us, and it was necessary to reach Nablous before sundown or the gates -would be shut. Riding through ancient towns, over plantations of figs, -and amid the most enchanting scenery, we passed, in less than half an -hour, the hamlet of Sâwieh, perched on a lofty ridge on the left, and -a short distance beyond we came to an old castle on the right, shaded -by a noble oak, whose vast dimensions and majestic form recalled the -famous oaks of Mamre. Descending into a deep valley running at right -angles with the great northern route, on the north was Kubalân, and -on the south Yetna, high up in the eternal hills, amid gardens of -figs and olives, as if suspended in the air. Such a view is worth a -pilgrimage to see. Toiling up the opposite side of the valley, in half -an hour we gained the summit, and the beauties of Ephraim lay like a -landscape of glory before us. Interjections were faint symbols of the -joyous emotions awakened by the scene. The white limestone rocks and -verdureless mountains of the south had given place to the vine-clad -hills of the north, crowned with the benediction of the dying patriarch, -“God make thee as Ephraim.”[476] At our feet lay the great plain of -El-Mukhnah, unbroken by fence or tower, dotted with groves, and rich -in fields of wheat and corn. Spreading out more than a mile and a half -in breadth, and extending more than seven miles north and south, it is -bounded on the east by a range of low, dark hills, and from its western -border rise Gerizim and Ebal, the former crowned with a small white -chapel reflecting the setting sun. Far away to the northeast, rising -like a column of alabaster against the calm blue sky of Damascus, was -Mount Hermon, the symbol of a purer world. Rapidly descending into -the plain below and turning northward, we soon passed the large town -of Hawâra, built on the mountain slope, and inhabited by a turbulent -community. Just beyond the village the road branches; the path to -the left, after winding round the base of Gerizim and crossing a -mountain spur, enters the Vale of Shechem near Nablous; the other path, -continuing up the plain, leads to the city by way of Jacob’s Well. -Choosing the latter, we found it the best road in Palestine. After -following the base of the mountain for a while, the path diverges to -the centre of the plain and passes through the most enchanting scenery. -Like a thing of beauty, the memory of that evening’s ride still -lingers in my mind. The deepening shadows of Gerizim had thrown their -lengthened forms over the plains; shepherds were returning with their -flocks; peasants were plodding homeward their weary way; and in the dim -twilight of departing day, and amid that solemn silence which awakens -profound reflections, we reached the patriarchal well. Intending to -visit this interesting spot again, we ascended the Vale of Nablous -and entered the ancient city of Shechem just as the old gate-keeper -was turning the ponderous key. Gladly dismounting after the exploits -of such a day, we led our jaded horses over the flag-paved streets of -the city, exciting the curiosity of an idle crowd of Shechemites, and -affording them fresh materials for village gossip. It was nine o’clock -when we found our host, who was the Christian school-teacher of the -Protestant Mission. Receiving us with great politeness, he led us up -a long flight of stone steps into a large clean room, where, after a -simple repast, we spread our mats and blankets for the night. - - Illustration: NABLOUS. - -Ranking with Damascus, Hebron, and Jerusalem in the antiquity of -its origin and the importance of its history, Shechem, or the modern -town of Nablous, is among the oldest cities in Palestine. Coming from -Chaldea, Abraham pitched his tent on the fertile plains of Mukhnah, “in -the place of Sichem, in the plain of Moreh.”[477] Nearly two centuries -later his grandson Jacob came from Mesopotamia to “Shalem, a city of -Shechem, and pitched his tent before the city, and bought a parcel of a -field, at the hand of the children of Hamor, for one hundred pieces of -money, and erected there an altar, and called it El-Elohe-Israel.”[478] -Here Simeon and Levi plotted the murder of the whole male population -of the town to avenge their dishonored sister, and, exposed by this act -of indiscretion to the insults and attacks of the adjacent villagers, -Jacob was compelled to remove to Hebron.[479] Retaining possession of -these pasture-fields, hither he sent Joseph to search for his brethren, -whom “a certain man found wandering in a field,” and directed him to -Dothan.[480] - -Four hundred years afterward, having achieved the conquest of Ai, -Joshua led his triumphant hosts over the Jordan into this vale; upon -Ebal he reared the first Jewish altar in Samaria; and from this and its -companion mountain caused to be read the blessings and cursings of the -Law.[481] Two and a half centuries later, Abimelech seized this city -and was proclaimed king, which gave rise to the beautiful parable of -Jotham.[482] Hither came Rehoboam to be crowned king of Israel; and -in the same year here occurred the coronation of Jeroboam, under whom -the twelve tribes revolted, and Shechem became the royal city of the -new monarchy.[483] During the long captivity of the Jews in Assyria, -Nablous rose to be the chief city of the Samaritans, who were destined -to act such a conspicuous part in sacred history. Being instructed -in the Jewish religion, they reared upon the summit of Mount Gerizim -a rival temple to that in Jerusalem, and became the religious and -political enemies of the Jews. Four hundred and fifty years after -the erection of this temple, the Vale of Shechem was hallowed by the -presence and teachings of Jesus and his twelve apostles. In the year -89 A.D. it was the birthplace of Justin, the philosopher and martyr, -one of the earliest and most learned of the Christian fathers. From the -days of the Roman conquest to the present time it has shared the varied -fortunes of the Crescent and the Cross, and to-day is subject to the -sceptre of the False Prophet. - -Nablous is situated in one of the most delightful vales in Palestine. -A garden-like valley opens from the Plain of Mukhnah and runs nearly -east and west, with Ebal on the north and Gerizim on the south. -Standing less than two miles up the vale, the city covers the roots -of Gerizim, extending toward the opposite mountain. Of its 8000 -inhabitants, 50 are Jews, 150 Samaritans, 500 Christians, and over -7000 Moslems. Its narrow streets, thronged with a busy multitude――its -stone dwellings, crowned with small domes――its mosques, with their -graceful minarets――and its numerous bazars, filled with fruit and -other commodities, remind the traveler of Jerusalem; but the streets -are less light and airy than those of the Holy City, as the buildings, -projecting over them, supported by arches, impart to them a tunnel-like -appearance. Except a spacious Saracenic doorway, now the portal of a -mosque, a marble sarcophagus, now a water-trough, and a few prostrate -columns of granite, limestone, and marble, there are no antiquities -worthy of a moment’s attention. The modern Shechemites are the chief -cotton-growers, oil-makers, and soap manufacturers of Palestine. The -valleys and hill-sides are covered with olive-trees, from the berries -of which is extracted the precious oil. In the adjacent fields cotton -is raised in large quantities for home consumption and exportation. -Regarded as the best quality grown in the dominions of the Turkish -empire, thousands of bales are yearly exported to Europe. The present -citizens of the town afford another illustration that the character of -a people, no less than their names and social customs, are handed down -from generation to generation. They are infamous for their turbulent -and fanatical reputation in the past, and more street-fights occur in -Nablous than in any other Syrian city. The rebellious spirit that rose -three thousand years ago against the government of Rehoboam is still -dominant, and the Shechemites are among the most troublesome of the -sultan’s subjects, obeying or rebelling as interest dictates or passion -inclines. It required the powerful and cruel arm of Ibrahim Pasha -to crush them, though not without a long and bloody struggle. Jews, -Samaritans, and Christians live among those turbulent children of -the Prophet only by sufferance, and the crimes of theft and murder -perpetrated on them are seldom punished by the weak and timorous -Turkish officials. - -The Jews have a small synagogue within the walls, the picture of -poverty and wretchedness. Of the 500 Christians, most are of the -Greek Church, and worship in an edifice at once old and filthy. The -Protestant Christian Mission is under the protection of the English and -Russian governments, and is accomplishing much good in the education -of the young. The mission school, under the care of our host, was held -in a room adjoining the one we occupied. Accepting his invitation, we -spent an hour with his pupils: there were present from forty to fifty -boys, from three to fifteen years of age. Attired in Syrian costume, -they were clean and pretty in their appearance, and modest and obedient -in their behavior. Sitting on their heels, they were engaged in writing -with a reed not unlike, in form and size, our common pencils. Calling -up one by one, from the least to the greatest, the master exhibited -specimens of penmanship which, as far as I was capable of judging of -the graceful Arabic characters, were creditable to the young penmen. As -they seemed anxious to know about the schools and children of America, -I made them a brief speech, which was interpreted by our polite host. - -From their wealth, social position, and historic importance, the -Samaritans are by far the most interesting religious body in Nablous. -The Bible account of their origin and history invests them with -a peculiar charm, and imparts to the seat of their ancient empire -an interest seldom equaled in the stories of romance. Hoping to -effectually subdue Palestine to their powerful sway and restore it -to the rites of idol worship, the Assyrian conqueror led the Jews of -Samaria into captivity, and repeopled their depopulated cities with -colonists from the distant East. During the long period that intervened -between the captivity and the colonization, the bears, panthers, wolves, -and jackals from the Heights of Hermon and the jungles of the Jordan -had so far penetrated into the heart of the country, and had multiplied -to such a degree, as to endanger the lives of the colonists. Being -polytheists themselves, they ascribed the evil to the local divinities, -whose worship they knew not how to perform. Complaining to their king, -he sent them a Jewish priest, who taught them the name and worship of -Jehovah. With a curtness that savors of irony, the inspired historian -adds, “They feared the Lord and served their own gods.”[484] National -pride, and contempt for their origin and mixed religion, led the Jews, -in after years, to despise the colonists, and being thus scorned by -those from whom they had reason to look for truth and righteousness, -the Samaritans in turn became exclusive. Multiplying in numbers and -increasing in wealth, in process of time they erected a temple on -the summit of Gerizim. To them this mount became their Moriah, and in -the lapse of ages an invented tradition designated it as the scene of -the offering of Isaac. By a better title it shared the solemnity and -significance of Mount Sinai, as from its slopes Joshua proclaimed the -Law; and the vale beneath became a second Râhah, since the hosts of -Israel gathered there to hear the blessings and cursings of the divine -commandments. With honest pride they contemplated their surrounding -plains as the camping-ground of the patriarchs prior to their -pilgrimage to the south, and as the scene of the coronation of the son -of Solomon. Turning their attention to commerce, they became merchants -in Egypt, and, traveling westward, in the fifth century they had a -synagogue in Rome. Continuing to live under the varied fortunes and -vicissitudes of empire, the existence of this present remnant is one of -the most remarkable instances of the tenacity of national life in the -annals of the world. Numbering 130 souls――the sum of all that remain -of a once proud and mighty kingdom――they cling to their ancient seat of -empire with undying fondness. Adhering to the Jewish law, which forbids -marriage with foreigners, and numbering more males than females, not -less than twenty men are doomed to involuntary celibacy. Industrious -and thrifty, they dwell in their own houses, pursuing their vocations -and maintaining their community with comparative ease. In their -physique and apparel, in their intelligence and morals, in their -social happiness and general behavior, they are the superior class -among the citizens of Nablous. Possessing a solitary synagogue in -the western part of the town, they observe their religious rites with -much regularity. They have a school, under the direction of a shrewd, -intelligent Samaritan. Their high-priest is a venerable man, who is -assisted in the duties of his sacred office by two sons, the elder -of whom will succeed his father to the office and rank he now holds. -Besides a collection of hymns, they have in their possession the Book -of Joshua in manuscript, with commentaries on the Law, and a copy of -the Pentateuch in the original character. They claim for the latter -that it is 3300 years old, and was written by “Abishua, the son -of Phinehas, the son of Eleazar, the son of Aaron.” Regarded as a -treasure of incalculable value, it is preserved in a metallic case, -and deposited in their synagogue under the care of the high-priest. The -tattered, patched, and soiled parchment forms an immense scroll, the -ends of which are attached to two rollers. Such is their superstitious -reverence for this antique manuscript, that they deem it a pardonable -offense to exhibit a duplicate as the veritable one, and many a -traveler has left with the impression of having seen the five books -of Moses written by the son of Phinehas. Though destitute of a temple, -they ascend their sacred mount three times a year, and celebrate with -much display the Feast of the Passover, the Day of Pentecost, and the -Feast of Tabernacles. - -The clouds that had overcast the sky, and the fogs which had hung upon -the mountains like floating curtains in the morning, had been lifted up -by noon, and Nature smiled in all the beauty of spring. Passing out of -the eastern gate of the city, I entered the Vale of Shechem. It extends -from the Plain of Mukhnah on the east to the city on the west, and is -two miles in length and something over 200 yards in width. It gently -ascends from Jacob’s Well, and for half a mile its entire breadth is -one vast and glorious grove of olive, fig, and almond trees, presenting -at times the density of a forest. Beyond the orchards are vineyards -and fields of grain, through which flows a crystal brooklet. Rising -like massive walls from this garden valley are Mount Gerizim on the -south and Ebal on the north, attaining an altitude of nearly 1000 feet. -Standing midway the vale, and looking upon these celebrated mountains, -one is impressed with their singular companionship. Of equal height, -with rugged sides and flattened summits, they remind one of twin -brothers. Equally renowned in sacred history, the honor bestowed -upon the one was only equal to the glory conferred upon the other. If -Gerizim was the mount of blessing and Ebal the mount of cursing, it was -upon the latter that Joshua reared the first altar to the living God in -Central Palestine. But, less impartial than history, Nature symbolizes -the benedictions and maledictions of the law by causing flowers to -bloom on Gerizim and thorns to grow on Ebal. Midway the vale are -corresponding nooks in the mountain sides, resembling well-formed -recesses, and increasing its breadth to nearly 400 yards. Standing out -from the base of the mountains are perpendicular ledges of rock, not -unlike grand pulpits, from which the whole vale is distinctly seen. -Somewhere in this expanse the hosts of Israel assembled to hear all -the words of the Law. Divided by the centre of the vale, the tribes of -Simeon and Levi, of Judah and Issachar, of Joseph and Benjamin, were -gathered around the base of Gerizim, and the tribes of Reuben and -Gad, of Asher and Zebulun, of Dan and Naphtali, were congregated over -against Ebal. Standing above the people on these great pulpits, which -the Creator had reared for an occasion so august, the priests read -the Law, while to each blessing and to each cursing the vast multitude -responded their assent.[485] So firmly does Nature retain her ancient -features, and so exact is the correspondence between the inspired -account and the scene as it now appears, that, standing within this -venerable church of God’s own construction, thirty centuries unfold -their mighty scroll, and the past comes back with the actuality of the -present. Before the eye of a sublime faith the tribes reassemble, the -priests take their stand, and in sonorous tones slowly and distinctly -read, one by one, each command and each prohibition, while from either -side, in alternate responses, beginning at the mountain base and -rolling outward to the centre, rises the full, deep, responsive “Amen!” -like the sound of many waters breaking in alternations of musical -thunder against the opposite wall of the everlasting mountains. The -area was sufficient for that grandest of human assemblies; and such is -the profound silence of the vale, the human voice was heard then, as it -is heard now, from mountain to mountain. - -Viewed from this point, Gerizim is not unlike a cone with ridged sides -and a broken base, while Ebal seems not so high nor steep, but rougher, -with its top receding with gentle slope. In the centre of the vale -opposite the nooks is the cool, clear, sweet fountain of ’Ain Depneh, -whither, as of old, the maidens come for water, and around which -shepherds linger with their flocks. In numberless rills the waters flow -to the eastward, in pearly brightness and perennial music, the livelong -day. From the fig and almond bowers birds of elegant plumage awaken -the gentler echoes of the vale. Less than half a mile to the east of -the fountain is the wretched hamlet of Belât, presenting a melancholy -contrast between the beauty of nature and the deformity of man. Two -hundred yards beyond, situated on the point of a spur from Gerizim, -is Jacob’s Well. On a mound of shapeless ruins, 20 feet above the -Plain of Mukhnah, are fragments of granite columns, the remains of -a Christian church. Measuring 75 feet in depth and nine in diameter, -this patriarchal well is excavated in the solid rock with regular and -smoothly-hewn sides. Originally, a vaulted chamber, 10 feet square and -as many deep below the surface of the ground, formed the entrance to -the well, the walls of which have fallen in, rendering access difficult. -Leaping down into the ruined vault, I found two openings into the well -through heaps of limestone blocks. Attaching a cord to a small tin -bottle, I lowered it to the depth of 65 feet, but found no water; -on lowering it, however, through the other aperture to the depth of -75 feet I reached the water, which was from three to five feet deep. -Imagine my joy in drinking from the Well of Sychar, whose waters were -sanctified by the lips of the gracious Redeemer! It is clear like unto -crystal, having the softness of oil and the sweetness of honey. - - Illustration: JACOB’S WELL. - -Returning to the surface of the ground, and sitting beside the well -whither the sons and daughters of the patriarchs had often come for -water, and perchance where the Master had sat, I read its thrilling -history as recorded by Moses and by John. With an accuracy that must -claim the faith of every candid mind, all the facts of the sacred -narrative are in harmony with the physical features of the scene. -Stretching out to the north, east, and south is the parcel of a field -Jacob bought of Hamor for a hundred pieces of money,[486] and on its -western border is the well. The three great religious sects agree as -to its identity, and its site has been preserved in the memory and -affections of man through an unbroken tradition to our own time. To one -not conversant with Eastern customs it would appear improbable that a -man as shrewd and prudent as Jacob would be at the expense and labor of -excavating a well so near the living springs in the upper valley, which -have always poured their irrigating waters down the Vale of Shechem. -But the reflection on the prudence and economy of the patriarch is -removed by the consideration of the well-known fact that in the East -water is more valuable than land, and a higher value is set upon a -well or spring than upon fields of pasture. “Pasture your flocks on -my hills and plains, but let my wells alone,” is the only request -the Oriental makes of the stranger. In a land where water is scarce, -every proprietor aims to have a well of his own, which he guards with -peculiar vigilance. The custom of digging wells on a newly-purchased -estate is as old as Abraham and Isaac; and as in their times, so now, -there are more quarrels over wells of water than over fields of grain. -Subject to the same social laws, Jacob but indicated his wisdom and -conformed to an acknowledged usage in first purchasing a field and then -digging a well. Accepting a tradition so venerable, I yielded to the -full enjoyment which such a scene is calculated to afford, and the week -I spent at Nablous I never wearied in my journeyings to drink of these -delicious waters. - -Interesting as were the patriarchal associations of the place, -it was with unmingled delight I read the beautiful story of our -Lord’s conversation with the woman of Samaria. Had St. John written -the incidents of the Savior’s journey from Jerusalem to Sychar with -a previous knowledge that his narrative would be subjected to a -searching criticism by the enemies of Divine truth, he could not have -written with greater accuracy. As the facts of topography on which the -traveler relies for the credibility of the story are recorded merely as -incidents to the story itself, the correspondence between the statement -and the fact is the more wonderful and convincing. Deeming it prudent -to escape the snare of the Pharisees, “Jesus left Judea and departed -again into Galilee.” To reach his destination “he must needs go through -Samaria.” Reaching Jacob’s Well at noon, he rested, it being on the -direct road to Galilee by way of Tirzah, while his disciples, turning -to the left, passed up the Vale of Shechem to the city to purchase -refreshments. During their absence came the “woman of Samaria,” with -cord and pitcher, to draw water. He who had made the fountains of earth -and sky requested, “Give me to drink.” As at most Eastern wells there -is neither wheel, chain, nor bucket, and surprised at his promise to -give living waters, her reply was no less natural than truthful: “Sir, -thou hast nothing to draw with, and the well is deep.” Hoping to divert -his attention from the irregularities of her life, she introduced the -relative claims of the Jews and Samaritans to religious superiority. -Rising up before them was Mount Gerizim, to which in turn each pointed -in their allusions to the noble sanctuary crowning its summit. Looking -with compassion upon the Samaritans, anticipating the great work to -be wrought among them, and impressed with the necessity of immediately -laboring in their behalf, he pointed to the ripe Plains of Mukhnah, -warning his disciples not to say, “There are yet four months and then -cometh harvest; behold, I say unto you, Lift up your eyes and look on -the fields, for they are white already to harvest.”[487] - -While Jews and Samaritans, Christians and Moslems, agree that this is -the Well of Sychar, the ever-restless skepticism of modern times has -called in question its otherwise undisputed identity. Because it is two -miles from the city of Shechem, it is judged too far away for the woman -to have come for water. Nothing, however, is said in the text to cause -us to suppose she came from the city; and if she had come from what is -now known as Nablous, there are reasons for supposing that the ancient -city extended farther east than the present one. Like the village of -Belât, her native town might have been adjacent to the spot; or at -the noon hour she might have come from an adjoining field, where, -with other peasant women, she had spent the morning in the toils of -husbandry. - -But, in the unmistakable fulfillment of our Lord’s prophecy, time has -furnished even a stronger proof of Bible inspiration than the exact -correspondence between the narration of the event and the description -of the scene. The woman of Samaria is dead; the disciples, one by one, -have all passed to their reward; the Redeemer has ascended to glory; -Gerizim is a desolation; Moriah is the shrine of Mohammed; and the -prophetic words of Jesus, that first fell from his lips on the soft air -of the Vale of Shechem, and were whispered back by the winds from Ebal -and Gerizim, are now heard in all the valleys and on all the mountain -summits in two hemispheres. - -The tomb of Joseph is in sight of his father’s well, around which he -was wont to play when young. When dying in the palace of Pharaoh, he -had taken an oath of the children of Israel that they should “carry up -his bones from hence;”[488] and, true to their solemn vow, “the bones -of Joseph, which the children of Israel brought up out of the land of -Egypt, buried they in Shechem, in a parcel of ground which Jacob bought -of the sons of Hamor, the father of Shechem.”[489] Crossing a stream -on which stands an old mill belonging to the village of Belât, we -descended into the plain, and, passing through rich corn-fields half a -mile to the north, we came to a small square area inclosed by a white -plastered wall, marking the spot where sleeps in peace he who was the -darling son, the wandering shepherd, the captive youth, Potiphar’s -slave, Asenath’s betrothed, Pharaoh’s prime minister, the preserver of -his country, the joy of a dying father, the exemplary saint, and the -model man. How strangely the lines of human actions cross each other -in the orderings of Providence! What beautiful coincidences transpire -beneath his benign sway! The parcel of land his father purchased -of Hamor is now the place of Joseph’s sepulchre, and in the very -field where he was lost he now rests in death. And though the spot is -unmarked by stately granite or marble shaft, Ebal, the mountain of his -boyhood, is his imposing tomb-stone, and over the whitened wall a vine -is now creeping, the symbol chosen by his dying father to preintimate -the prosperity of a beloved son: “Joseph is a fruitful bough, even a -fruitful bough by a wall, whose branches run over the wall.”[490] - -It was five o’clock on a bright spring morning when, attended by a -solitary guide, I descended the Vale of Nablous to where the valley -widens, and began to ascend the Mount of Cursing. The sun was just -peering over the hills of Ephraim, transforming the dew-drops into -sparkling jewels, and awakening the matin notes of unnumbered songsters. -In an hour we gained the summit; and though the horizon was misty, -limiting the view, the familiar peaks of Moab rose above the fog-clouds -like islands in the ocean. The sides of Ebal are rough, and its summit -broad and stony. A solitary goat-path leads over the mountain to -the valleys beyond. Shepherds were roving with their flocks in quest -of pasture, and peasants were hastening to their daily toil. The -attritions of time and the sacrilegious hand of plunder have destroyed -the altar Joshua reared to Jehovah. From its highest peak a noble -view is obtained of the fertile hills and valleys to the east, and of -the lofty Tellûzeh, the renowned Tirzah, whose beauties Solomon has -embalmed in immortal song,[491] and which was once the rival of Shechem -as the seat of royalty.[492] - -Returning to Nablous, we passed out of the western gate to ascend the -Mount of Blessings. At the portal stood a group of lepers, perhaps the -descendants of Gehazi, who was cursed with the leprosy of Naaman.[493] -Poor creatures, how sad they looked! Their ulcered faces, dull, -restless eyes, languid, husky voices, and tattered garments presented -a mournful spectacle of fallen humanity. Excluded from society like -those of Jerusalem, they live distinct, to grieve, rot, and die in -their wretched hovels. Standing afar off and arranging themselves in a -semicircle, twenty men and women, in tones of pity, asked our charities. -No sight among living things that meets the traveler’s eye recalls the -days of the benevolent Savior so vividly as the appearance of lepers. -Perhaps it was in this same city that “there met him ten men that were -lepers, which stood afar off. And they lifted up their voices and said, -Jesus, Master, have mercy on us.”[494] Distributing bread among the -poor creatures, we turned to the left and began the ascent. Our path -led up a glen of rare beauty, and from a ridge to the south of the town -we looked down upon the noble site of the city stretching nearly across -the valley, and from amid palms and trees of exquisite foliage rose -domes and minarets. Just above the ridge, in a sequestered spot, is -the large fountain of ’Asal. Its clear waters, being first gathered -into immense troughs, are then conducted by an aqueduct to a mill, from -which they flow down the hill-side into a quiet dell rich with shrubs -and flowers. Crossing the stream, we followed the path trodden by many -ancient pilgrims, and passed through groves of figs and almonds, in the -branches of which birds were singing merrily. Here the hill-sides were -terraced, supporting groves of fruit-trees and also vineyards. Beyond -the orchards the path was steep and stony, and turning abruptly to -the left, after half an hour’s hard climbing we reached the summit of -Gerizim. The top is a broad, irregular plateau, covered with heaps of -stones and the remains of vast structures. Crowning a rocky knoll is -the white wely seen from the Heights of Ephraim. From the roof a view -is obtained rivaling that from Neby Samwîl in the extent and variety -of the prospect. Far to the east, like a massive wall, stand the -trans-Jordanic mountains; on the south a succession of green hills -appear as far as the eye can reach; on the west are seen patches of the -Plain of Sharon, and through openings in the hills are caught glimpses -of the Mediterranean; while dimly in the hazy northern sky Hermon rises, -covered with snow and tinged with a purple hue. In all its wealth and -beauty, at the mountain base lies the Plain of Mukhnah, stretching -eastward a broad green arm amid the dark hills of Ephraim. Indistinctly -the modern town of Sâlim appears on its western border, supposed to -mark the site of Shalem, where Jacob pitched his tent. Seen in the -rays of the setting sun, the plain resembles a magnificent carpet -of vast dimensions, of curious figures, and of variant hues, the -chocolate-color of the soil, the light green of the corn, the sombre -hue of the olive, the dull gray of the protruding rocks, and the purple -and azure tints of the hills harmoniously blending. - -Of the nature and origin of the immense ruins covering the summit -of Gerizim but little is known. There is one vast structure, now in -ruins, consisting of two adjacent parts, measuring 400 feet in length -and 250 in breadth, with the remains of square towers at each corner. -Consisting of blocks of limestone with beveled edges and rough centres, -they are regarded by some as the remains of the once grand temple of -the Samaritans, and by others as portions of the great fortress here -erected by the Emperor Justinian. Though the Samaritans reject these -ruins as part of their temple, yet they point to many of their sacred -places. Beneath the western wall of what is now called the castle are -twelve flat stones, and under them are said to be the veritable twelve -stones that Joshua brought up out of the Jordan as memorials of the -miraculous dividing of the water. A few yards to the south is their -“Holy of Holies.” Irregular in form, it is a smooth-faced natural rock, -measuring 45 feet in diameter, and gently declining toward a deep-hewn -pit called their _sanctum sanctorum_. Regarding it as holy ground, they -always remove their shoes before stepping upon it; and as truly as the -Moslem turns toward Mecca in the moment of prayer, and the Jew toward -Jerusalem, so truly do the Samaritans turn toward this rock-hewn cavern -in the time of devotion. Contrary to all history and to all tradition, -they claim it as the scene of the offering of Isaac, of Jacob’s vision, -as the place where the Tabernacle was first set up, and where the -Ark rested. Sacred and profane history is too explicit to countenance -either of these assumptions; and, besides the unanimous voice of -history, the distance from Beersheba to Gerizim is too great to have -been accomplished in three days by Abraham and his son. Even had the -Father of the Faithful followed the Plain of Philistia, and on the -morning of the third day from the Plain of Sharon seen Gerizim, the -difficulty of distance would not have been obviated by such a route, as -it would have required him to travel thirty miles a day for the first -two days and twenty miles of heavy mountain-climbing for the third; and -as he and Isaac returned to the young men the same day, the distance -would have been much greater. Not far from these ruins is a rectangular -area, surrounded with a low stone fence, called the Temple of the -Samaritans. Here they annually assemble, pitch their tents, and eat the -Passover. Near the inclosure is a circular pit, three feet in diameter -and ten deep, in which the paschal lambs are roasted. I was fortunate -enough to be present on the 23d of April to witness the celebration of -the feast of the Samaritan Passover. According to their custom, their -whole community, to the number of 130 souls, consisting of men, women, -and children, had ascended the mount and pitched their tents, some of -which were white and others of variegated colors, upon its broad summit. -The day being regarded by them as a gala-day, all were attired in their -gayest costumes, and all rejoiced in the historic significance of the -occasion. Occupying an elevated position, the ceremonies were conducted -by the venerable high-priest, assisted by his two sons. The male -portion of the congregation stood in a group on a small mound, chanting -psalms and reciting portions of the Pentateuch, while the females -remained in and around the tents. In a group stood seven Levites clad -in white garments, each holding by the head a lamb without spot or -blemish; near them were large caldrons of boiling water, to scald the -sheep like swine, instead of flaying them, as in the ordinary way; and -beyond was the circular furnace, already heated, to roast the offering. -The going down of the sun was the appointed time to slay the paschal -lambs. As the day declined, each face was turned toward the west, -eagerly watching the last ray of the setting sun. At length the solemn -moment came; the high-priest waved his hand as the signal for the -slaughter; in an instant each lamb was slain and lay bleeding at the -Levite’s feet. Not a sound was heard. Each worshiper bowed his face -to the earth, his forehead touching the ground. After an interval of -silent prayer, all arose, greeted each other with a holy kiss, and -parents sprinkled the blood of the victims upon the forehead of their -first-born. The scalding of the sheep followed, and after the fleece -had been removed, the seven lambs were suspended on heavy oaken spits, -and with much ceremony placed in the heated furnace. It was night -before the feast was ready. The paschal moon had risen in unclouded -beauty upon the rugged summit of Gerizim, and many a one had fallen -asleep, like the three disciples in Tabor. At length a shout is -heard――the feast is ready! The lambs being removed from the furnace, -the priest’s portion was first presented to him, and then the whole -company, except those women ceremonially unclean, ate the flesh with -bitter herbs and with unleavened bread, in haste, with their loins -girded, their shoes on their feet, and their staffs in their hand.[495] - - - - - CHAPTER XI. - - A Price for Politeness. ―― Escort. ―― Picturesque Scenery. ―― - Samaria. ―― Its Founder. ―― Its Vicissitudes. ―― Residence - of Elisha. ―― Famine. ―― City beautified by Herod. ―― Its - Location. ―― Hill of Omri. ―― Grand Ruins. ―― Tomb of John - the Baptist. ―― Temple of Augustus. ―― Prediction fulfilled. - ―― Departure for Cæsarea. ―― Night on the Plain of Sharon. ―― - The Sick brought out. ―― Plain of Sharon. ―― The Lost Lake. ―― - Cæsarea uninhabited. ―― Dangers. ―― History. ―― Imperial City - under Herod the Great. ―― Grand Ruins. ―― St. Paul a Prisoner. - ―― Death of Herod Agrippa. ―― Athlît. ―― Mount Carmel. ―― - Scene of the Sacrifice. ―― Great Event. ―― Abode of Elisha. - - -SAMARIA, the ancient capital of Israel, is seven and a half miles to -the northwest from Nablous, and 25 miles beyond, in the same direction, -is Cæsarea, on the Mediterranean coast. Intending to encamp that night -amid the ruins of the latter city, we ordered our horses at nine A.M. -At the appointed time their solid iron shoes were heard on the pavement -below, and the impatient Arab servant was crying, “Horses ready, sir.” -But we had met with an unexpected delay. Judging from the magnanimous -manner in which the schoolmaster of Nablous had received us at our -arrival, and his affable deportment during our stay, he seemed above -the tricks and meanness of other Orientals; but an Arab is an Arab -the world over――selfish, money-loving, and untrue, whether Christian, -Jew, or Moslem. Eastern hospitality always means an equivalent to be -returned for whatever has been received. Gifts are presented with the -tacit understanding that presents are to be given in return. Even the -merchant assures the buyer that all he has is his, well knowing that in -this unbounded generosity he is protected by the customs of the East, -which are invested with all the sanctity and authority of law. More -than once our host had said, “All I have is yours――my house, my food, -my service.” To the uninitiated this is equal to his ideal of Oriental -hospitality; but when the day of departure comes, the deceptive curtain -is lifted, and his Arab host stands before him a persistent creditor. -Having paid our host for his apartments and for the entertainment he -had furnished, I saw that he wore an expression of disappointment. -“What is the matter, my friend? Why is thy countenance sad, seeing thou -art not sick? It is nothing else but sorrow of heart.” “Ah! my dear sir, -you have paid me for my room, for my food, and for my service, but you -have not paid me for my politeness.” “How much do you charge for your -politeness?” A thoughtful moment followed, and he replied, “Two dollars -and a half.”[496] - -Waving him an adieu, we sprang into our saddles, and in a few moments -issued out of the western portal of the city. Intending to visit -Cæsarea, which is now a desolation and a den of thieves, we had taken -the precaution to engage two Turkish soldiers as a guard, for whose -service the governor had demanded an exorbitant sum. They were to -have met us at the gate of the town, but, true to their traditional -indolence, they did not arrive till long after the appointed hour. -The sun was high, a long journey was before us, many places of deep -interest were to be visited, and we felt impatient at the delay. To -wait was the only remedy. At length one came, informing us that his -companion had lost his horse. Refusing to linger longer, we ordered -him to advance, leaving word with the guard at the gate to hasten the -tardy soldier, who overtook us after half an hour’s ride. - -Our cavalcade now presented a picturesque appearance as we wound -round the southwestern spur of Gerizim and descended into the upper -end of the Vale of Shechem. Leading the way, our guard were mounted on -spirited horses fantastically caparisoned, while they themselves were -attired in costumes of the gayest colors. Each was armed with a long -gun thrown across the shoulders, a Turkish sword dangling by his side, -and a brace of old-fashioned cavalry pistols sticking in his girdle. As -we advanced the scenery became surpassingly lovely. Terraced hills rose -on either side, casting a grateful shade in the vale below; groves of -figs and olives, apples and pomegranates, apricots and almonds, covered -the plain and mountain sides. As we rode on, our ears were saluted with -the sound of running waters and the song of birds. In less than thirty -minutes we passed on our right a noble fountain, covered with a Roman -arch, around which were groups of peasants and droves of asses. An hour -beyond we came to an arched mill-race, not unlike a Roman aqueduct, -consisting of twelve pointed arches, gray with age and festooned with -graceful ferns. It is used for carrying the water to the south side -of the valley, where it falls headlong into the heart of an old mill, -amid the whirr of wheels, mingling an air of civilization with the -crude mechanics of the East. Leaving this terrestrial elysium, our -path diverged northward over bleak hills whose limestone ribs had -burst through the scanty soil, intensely reflecting the light and heat -of a Syrian sun. The path is cut into the solid rock, in some places -resembling steps, but now worn smooth by the tread of man and beast. -Near the summit of the ridge is the “Shepherds’ Spring,” where maidens -were drawing water for their flocks. Now the royal city of Samaria -rose to view. Its unique hill, like a truncated cone, adorned with -circular terraces; its marble porticoes, now in ruins; and its hut-like -dwellings, rising from amid the remains of more pretentious edifices, -formed a picture of singular beauty. Descending through magnificent -groves, the path followed the valley, and, after passing beneath an -old arched gateway, it abruptly turned to the west up the hill of the -Samaria of Omri, the Sebaste of Herod, and the Sebustieh of modern -times. - -The history of Samaria is among the most thrilling and romantic -portions of the Sacred Volume. It dates back to 900 years B.C. “In the -thirty and first year of Asa, king of Judah, began Omri to reign over -Israel, twelve years; six years reigned he in Tirzah. And he bought the -Hill of Samaria of Shemer for two talents of silver, and built on the -hill, and called the name of the city which he built after the name of -Shemer, owner of the Hill Samaria.”[497] Up to this time the revolted -ten tribes had no capital city as the object of their pride and the -centre of their affections. Originating in rebellion, the kingdom -of Israel had been governed by adventurers, who had reared sumptuous -palaces as fancy or luxury inclined. From Shechem, the original seat -of empire, Jeroboam removed to the enchanting Heights of Tirzah, a -magnificent mountain six miles north from Nablous, projecting from the -table-land of Ebal. Solomon had praised its beauty in his immortal song: -“Thou art beautiful, O my love, as Tirzah;”[498] and for forty years it -was the seat of royalty. Ambitious for an imperial city near Jerusalem, -Baasha, the successor of Jeroboam, abandoned Tirzah for Ramah; but, -overtaken by misfortune, he was compelled to return to the mountains of -Ephraim. More successful, however, than his predecessor, after a reign -of six years Omri finally exchanged Tirzah for the strength, wealth, -and glory of Samaria. Succeeding his father Omri to the throne of -Israel, and marrying the Sidonian Jezebel, Ahab removed his court to -Jezreel, on the slopes of Gilboa. To him belongs the shame of having -first erected an idol temple to Baal on the summit of Samaria, which -secured for him the divine verdict that “Ahab did more to provoke -the Lord God of Israel to anger than all the kings of Israel that -were before him.”[499] The city was a tempting prize to the military -plunderers of that distant day. In the reign of Ahab, Benhadad, king of -Damascus, besieged it with a strong and boastful army, but, through the -courage and celerity of the young men of the provinces, he was repulsed -with terrible slaughter.[500] Long the residence of the Prophet Elisha, -Samaria was the scene of many of the most interesting events in his -marvelous career. Benhadad, regarding him the cause of the discomfiture -of his army, dispatched a detachment of troops to Dothan, six miles to -the north, to capture the man of God. Conscious of his danger, Elisha -invoked the divine aid, and the Lord smote the men with blindness, and -the prophet, whom they had been sent to capture, led them as captives -back to Samaria. Forgetting that mercy is due to the vanquished, the -king of Israel, in a paroxysm of revenge, cried out, “My father, shall -I smite them? shall I smite them?” More humane than his royal master, -the kind-hearted Elisha replied, “Thou shalt not smite them: wouldst -thou smite them whom thou hast taken captive with thy sword and with -thy bow? Set bread and water before them, that they may eat and drink, -and go to their master.”[501] Benhadad, enraged at his failure to -capture the man whom he supposed was the cause of his ill success, -sought to accomplish by famine what he had failed to do by the sword. -Investing the city on every side, he reduced the citizens to the -greatest necessity. It was during the horrors of the long and fearful -famine which followed that, as the King of Israel passed along the wall, -“there cried a woman unto him, saying, Help, my lord, O king. And he -said unto her, What aileth thee? And she answered, This woman said unto -me, Give thy son, that we may eat him to-day, and we will eat my son -to-morrow. So we boiled my son and did eat him; and I said unto her on -the next day, Give thy son that we may eat him; and she hath hid her -son.” Rending his clothes at a spectacle so mournful, and erroneously -attributing the famine to Elisha, the king swore, “God do so, and more -also to me, if the head of Elisha, the son of Shaphat, shall stand -on him this day.” Conscious of his innocence and undaunted at the -threat, the prophet sat calmly in his house; and, contrary to all human -probability, but knowing what would befall the enemy that night, he -said to the executioner, “To-morrow about this time shall a measure -of fine flour be sold for a shekel, and two measures of barley for a -shekel, in the gate of Samaria.” Terrified by a supernatural noise, -that night the Syrians abandoned their well-provisioned camp and fled -for safety. Four lepers, who had lingered outside of the city, dying -of hunger, in the desperation of despair resolved to enter the enemy’s -camp and ask for bread; but, to their surprise, the camp was empty -of men, but full of the spoils of war. Lepers though they were, they -hastened back to the city with the glad tidings of plenty, and that day -were fulfilled the prophetic words of Elisha.[502] - - Illustration: SAMARIA. - -No important event occurred in connection with Samaria for 700 years, -till the reign of the Emperor Augustus, who bestowed it as a gift -upon Herod the Great, by whom it was enlarged and beautified, rivaling -Baalbec and Palmyra in the magnificence of its architecture. Herod -reared a temple on the summit of the hill in honor of his patron, and -inclosed its base with a colonnade, consisting of two ranges of columns -50 feet apart, and extending 3000 feet in length. Such was the splendor -of Samaria in the apostolic age, when Philip, together with Peter and -John, preached the kingdom of heaven to the Samaritans, and encountered -Simon Magus, the sorcerer of Sebaste.[503] - -The ancient city was located on one of the most imposing and -picturesque hills in Palestine. Situated in a basin-like plain six -miles in diameter, it rises in an oval shape to the height of 300 feet. -Connected with the mountains on the east by a gentle swell of land, it -has the appearance of a noble promontory. Midway its sides is a broad, -irregular terrace, the site of the modern town, while its summit is -a long, level plateau. On the north and south are valleys, converging -on the west into the Valley of Nablous and running to the sea, bounded -on either side by higher mountains, dotted with villages, and fertile -in groves of fruit-trees and fields of grain. Nothing evinces the -refinement and elegance of Omri’s taste more than the selection of this -hill to be the site of his imperial city; but, under the degenerating -influences of Mohammedanism, the beautiful in nature and the grand -in art sink into insignificance. The footfalls of the Prophet are -the pitfalls of civilization. Here, as every where else in the East -where he sways his sceptre and lifts his sword, shame succeeds glory. -Filth and rags, indolence and turbulence, crime and misery, are -the chief features of the 400 inhabitants of the modern town. Their -sixty wretched huts are constructed of mud, in which are imbedded -the polished but now broken columns of costlier edifices. In a region -where plenty waits on ordinary industry, they are but little above the -condition of common beggars. In such a land indolence is a crime and -poverty a dishonor. - -Grand amid its ruins and conspicuous in its desolation is the Church -of John the Baptist, reared to the memory of that great man some time -during the reign of the Crusaders. Standing on the very brow of the -broad terrace on the east, its broken arches and crumbling walls recall -the beautiful ruins of Melrose and Dryburg Abbeys. In form it resembles -a Greek cross. The finish of the interior is of the Corinthian order, -and exceedingly beautiful. Measuring 153 feet in length and 75 in width, -the interior consists of a nave and two grand aisles, formed by rows of -clustered columns ornamented with Corinthian capitals. In the eastern -end is the chancel, with pointed arches elegantly adorned, resembling -the segment of a circle. But the Gothic roof is gone, and in the aisles -grass grows where once cowled monks and mail-clad knights knelt in -prayer. On white marble tablets set in the wall are sculptured crosses -of the Order of the Knights of St. John, now mutilated by the hand of -Moslem ignorance. - -The southern half of the interior has been inclosed for a mosque, and -under a wely in this inclosure is the reputed tomb of St. John, called -by the Arabs “Neby Yahya.” It is a small chamber excavated in the solid -rock, reached by the descent of 21 steps. Here pious tradition points -to the final resting-place of his headless body, brought hither by his -friends from the castle of Machaerus, on the east of the Jordan, where -it was originally interred. When the brave Crusaders took possession of -the Holy Land, they guarded with affection and veneration the sepulchre -of their patron saint, and reared over his ashes this church as his -funeral pile. Though impossible to determine the correctness of the -tradition that here urns the dust of the greatest of prophets, it is no -less a tribute to his memory, and a dishonor to the memory of his royal -murderer, that the name of John and that of Herod are the only two -conspicuous names perpetuated by the ruins of Samaria. - -Plucking a memorial leaf from the tomb, we followed the broad, level -belt of land to the southwest side of the hill, where are the remains -of Herod’s colonnade. It is impossible to speak with accuracy of -its vastness and magnificence. According to Josephus, Herod enlarged -the city, surrounded it with a wall 20 furlongs in circumference, -in the midst of which he left an open area a furlong and a half in -circumference, where he erected a temple to Augustus, remarkable alike -for the vastness of its dimensions and the exquisite beauty of its -finish.[504] To rival the renowned city of Palmyra, he constructed -a colonnade 50 feet wide and 3000 long, consisting of two rows of -polished limestone columns 16 feet high and two feet in diameter, -ornamented with Corinthian capitals. Through this imposing colonnade -the royalty, the beauty, and military of Sebaste passed up to the -temple of Augustus, which crowned the hill of Omri; but, like the grim -skeleton of departed beauty, it is now a ruin. For more than 200 feet -this avenue is marked by prostrate columns and broken bases. A hundred -shafts still stand erect as when reared eighteen centuries ago, but now -marred by the rude plowshare of the equally rude Arab. Ascending to the -site of the temple, 200 feet above the colonnade, we found 17 columns -without capitals, two of which were lying prostrate, overgrown with the -ripening grain. Half a mile distant to the right were 15 columns, which -are all that remain of that famous quadrangle composed of 170 columns. -Where marble walks once ran and exquisite statuary stood, venerable -Nature, outliving the monuments of human greatness, has resumed -her ancient sway, bearing on her fertile bosom clustering vines and -ripening grains. From the summit the prospect is no less extensive than -captivating. Unrivaled by any other hill as a site for a capital, the -position of Samaria is strong and central, its environs are fertile, -and its summit is fanned with breezes from the distant sea. The -vineyards, the cotton-fields, the circlet of mountains green with corn, -and the rich Plain of Sharon beyond, bounded by the blue waters of -the Mediterranean, form a picture of more than ordinary beauty, and -one which Elisha and Herod, Philip, and Peter, and John must have -contemplated with delight. - -As we descended from the ruins of Sebaste, whose citizens were -great in crime as they were great in wealth and power, the prophetic -denunciations against the city and their fulfillment were recalled to -mind: “I will make Samaria as an heap of the field and as plantings of -a vineyard; and I will pour down the stones thereof into the valley, -and I will discover the foundations thereof.”[505] “Samaria shall -become desolate, for she hath rebelled against her God.”[506] - -It was two P.M. when we mounted our horses for Cæsarea. Reapers were -thrusting the sickle into the ripe barley, and maidens were gleaning -after them, as we rode over the Plain of Sebaste. Soon we turned -westward and again entered the Valley of Nablous, here known as Wady -Sh’aîr, “The Valley of Barley.” Through its centre flows a brook, which -increases in width and rapidity as it approaches the sea. Following the -northern bank of the stream, we passed, at intervals of several hundred -yards, Roman aqueducts, near which are mills driven by water power. -Reaching the small hamlet of ’Anebta, the road to Cæsarea branches, -one continuing down the valley to the Plain of Sharon, while the -other, striking across the barren ridges of Wady Mussîn, enters the -plain by the village of Bâkah. Choosing the latter, we traversed a -barren and cheerless region. Night came on apace as we neared the large -and flourishing town of Shuweikeh, situated on a lofty hill. Passing -the village of Kakôn, we mistook Zeita for the town of Bâkah. Riding -through its silent streets, we learned from a peasant that the place of -our night’s encampment was still to the westward. Regaining the road, -we lingered for a moment to examine the remarkable Hill of Zît, marking -the eastern border of the Plain of Sharon. Its sides are scarped and -regular, and its summit is level; around its base are hewn stones and -fragments of columns belonging to some unknown city. It was here we had -a despicable instance of the military tyranny of the Turks. One of our -soldiers rode into a field and cut down grain enough to feed his horse -that night, while the owner, who was a poor man, besought him, in the -most respectful manner, to spare his grain, as it was all his property. -But neither age, prayers, nor poverty touched the heart of that -military ruffian. - -Anxious, hungry, and weary, we pitched our tents, at eight P.M., in -the environs of Bâkah, a small straggling town on one of the richest -plains in the world. The mules unloaded, the horses tethered, supper -over, prayers offered, my companions asleep, I walked out upon the -magnificent Plain of Sharon. A dreamy haze, like gossamer gauze, veiled -the skies of night, through which moon and stars softly peered. A scene -so lovely recalled the tender strain of one of our finest poets: - - “Oh! sweet and beautiful night, - When the silver moon is high, - And countless stars, like clustering gems, - Hang sparkling in the sky: - While the breath of the summer breeze - Comes whispering down the glen, - And one fond voice alone is heard―― - Oh, night is lovely then.” - -The horse and his rider lay side by side, and the watch-fires, burning -dimly, shed a livid glare upon the sleepers. The moon, growing brighter -as she ascended, silvered each spear of grass and blade of corn, while -far away to the east, amid the mountain glens of Samaria, - - “Shadows wandered free, - But spoke not o’er the idle ground.” - -It was now midnight, and I was alone, a stranger in a strange land, -without one near me whose face I had seen beyond the ocean. The heavens -only were familiar; the moon and stars of my childhood were as old -companions; but, rising above the one and the other, I sought communion -with Him who is enthroned on high. - -The morning dawned inauspiciously; the gossamer veil of the previous -night had been folded into thick clouds, which obscured the summits -of the distant hills. While we were waiting for our muleteer to load -his beast, there occurred a scene illustrating the tenacity of Eastern -customs. In our party was Dr. Barclay, the eminent American physician -of Joppa. His fame had preceded him, and, learning of his arrival, -the villagers brought out their sick of all ages, and for a time our -encampment became a hospital. Among the number was a young girl, who -with faltering step came leaning upon the arm of her mother. She was -pale and emaciated, and apparently in the last stages of consumption. -The doctor examined her symptoms, questioned her mother, and prescribed -for the patient, who long since, I fear, has passed to another world. -Such was a faint illustration of the days of the Savior, when “they -brought unto him those having all manner of diseases, and he cured -them.” In a country where science is neglected, _materia medica_ is -unknown, the barber is the physician, bloodletting is the panacea -for all diseases, and the “medicine-man” of more enlightened lands is -revered next to God. - -The sick had scarcely found shelter within their hovels when the storm -broke upon us in all its fury. Protected by a thick burnous and a -Mackintosh coat, we waited patiently the return of fair weather. The -rain ceasing, we advanced, but had not reached the southern limits of -the town when the storm was renewed with tenfold violence. Deeming it -prudent to halt, we remained upon the plain for an hour, amid a -drenching rain and exposed to a raging wind; but when the rain ceased a -rainbow spanned the heavens such as seldom appears in Western skies. - -Hoping to reach Cæsarea by noon, we dashed over the plain, and in less -than two hours came to the Nahr Abu Zabûra, which was so swollen as to -render fording dangerous. Exploring the banks for a ford, but failing -to find one, we plunged in with a shout, and with difficulty gained -the opposite bank. Safely “beyond the floods,” the Plain of Sharon lay -before us in all its wealth and beauty. It extends like a vast prairie -from the base of Carmel on the north to the sea-girt cliffs of Joppa -on the south. Eastward the Hills of Samaria look down upon it, with -Ebal and Gerizim rising above their fellows. Westward is the sea, whose -waters roll their ceaseless waves against its “empire shores.” It has -a shore line of 50 miles in length, and varies from one to 15 miles -in breadth. Undulating in long and graceful swells, it is at intervals -dotted with low hills crowned with the ruins of unknown towns. -Retaining its ancient character, it is the best pasture-land west of -the Jordan valley. Three thousand years ago here Shitrai the Sharonite -kept the flocks of David,[507] and over its ample fields the shepherd -of to-day might wander with his herds. Of the “rose of Sharon” neither -peasants nor scholars have any knowledge at present; if it exists, it -is not recognized by its inspired name. There grows upon the plain the -“imperial thorn,” by some regarded as the thorn of which the Savior’s -crown was made. Growing to the height of four feet, it has a gorgeous -purple blossom, with a long, lancet-like brier, and would well compose -a mock imperial crown. - -There are no paths over this great plain, which is seldom trodden -except by those who till the soil, and the compass or a peasant is -the traveler’s only guide. Though ordinarily this is a disadvantage, -yet to us it proved advantageous, as in our wanderings we discovered a -lake that had been lost since the days of the Crusaders. Though it is -not large, its waters are pure, of a bluish tint, and abound in fish. -Flocks of wild ducks were floating on its placid bosom. Its waters -never fail, though they are sensibly increased by the rains in the wet -seasons. Its shores are clean and sandy. On the north it is bounded -by a high sand-bank of many miles in extent. The sand is of an orange -color, like that found on the Debbet er-Ramleh in Arabia. On the south -and west there is a meadow rich in rank weeds, and covered with acres -of white and yellow daisies. On the north and east there is an oaken -grove, lovely as an English park. - -Crossing the large sand-hill, we soon entered a tract of country -remarkable only for the quantity of thorns and brambles, which scratch -both man and beast in the most painful manner. An hour’s ride from -the lake brought us to the outer walls of Cæsarea, and at one P.M. -we encamped within its massive ruins. Fearing an attack, our soldiers -immediately left us to return to Nablous, assigning as the cause the -worst of military reasons――that they were afraid to remain. An Arab -soldier is rarely to be trusted in danger. His convictions of right -and wrong, his sense of obligation, his want of personal courage, his -habitual meanness of soul, and his traditional hatred of the Christian, -disqualify him to be a trusty guard. He is of advantage to the traveler -in saving him from the petty annoyances of the common people, by whom -he is dreaded because he is tyrannical and brutal, but it is his nature -to cower in the presence of a superior and courageous foe. There is -nothing so mean as an Arab soldier. - -It was a dangerous experiment to visit Cæsarea, and especially to -remain there during the night without a guard. For many years there -has been a standing feud between the Fellahîn who dwell in the villages -on the plain and the Hawâra Arabs who hover along the coast. It was a -novel sight, as we crossed the fields, to see farmers engaged in the -peaceful pursuits of husbandry armed to the teeth. Men were threshing -with guns slung upon their backs; women were gleaning with heavy clubs -dangling at their side; and patrol-men, with sword and pistols, gun -and lance, were on the alert to give the alarm at the first appearance -of the foe. With brief intervals, such has been the condition of -Sharon since the earliest ages, and Isaiah gives it as a sign of -the restoration of the Jews, that “Sharon shall be a fold of flocks, -and the Valley of Achor a place for the herds to lie down in, for my -people that have sought me.”[508] Discouraged by such dangers, but -few travelers attempt this interesting tour; but there is so much of -religious and political importance connected with this renowned city, -that we felt justified in making the journey and remaining during the -night, after we had been abandoned by our military escort. - -The authentic history of Cæsarea commences with Strabo, in the reign -of Augustus, who describes it as an insignificant landing-place, marked -by “Strato’s Tower.” From this solitary tower Cæsarea became the most -magnificent city in Palestine, under the auspices of Herod the Great. -The subject and friend of Augustus, he sought to perpetuate the favor -of his royal master by founding an imperial city and giving to it the -family name of Cæsar; and, impelled by an unbounded ambition, he aimed, -if possible, to make it rival Rome in the elegance of its architecture -and in the extent of its commerce. Abandoning the traditions of his -fathers, he transferred the capital of his empire from its mountain -fastnesses to this inhospitable coast, which exposed it alike to the -corruption of Western nations and to the attack of their naval galleys. -But in removing the sceptre of empire from Judah he unconsciously -became the accomplisher of prophecy, and in inviting the civilization -of the West to his shores he unintentionally opened a highway for -the nations to hear from apostolic lips the sublime lessons of -Christianity. Sparing neither art nor treasure in founding his new -city, he surrounded it with a wall of many miles in circumference, and -within the inclosure erected on a commanding hill, which he encompassed -by a second wall, a splendid temple of white marble, and dedicated it -to Cæsar. According to Josephus, he adorned it with two statues, one -representing Rome, and the other his patron Augustus. To attract the -commerce of the West, he constructed in front of the acropolis a harbor -equaling the Athenian Piræus both in elegance and extent. Sinking -huge stones to the depth of 20 fathoms, he constructed an immense and -gently-curving breakwater to protect vessels in port from the southern -and western gales, but left an open channel on the north for the -entrance and departure of ships. To strengthen and beautify the mole, -he reared large towers, containing vaulted chambers adorned with arched -ceilings, mosaic pavements, polished columns, and sculptured capitals, -for the accommodation of naval officers, and connected the towers -and the shore by a long quay, designed for the landing of merchandise -and the pleasures of a promenade. To tempt the wealth and fashion -of Greece and Rome, he erected on the east and south a vast theatre -and circus; and to secure the health and comfort of the citizens, he -built aqueducts extending miles in length, and large enough to admit -a mounted cavalier.[509] But the history of Cæsarea was as brief as it -was splendid; its decline was as rapid as its rise was sudden. Forsaken -by men, it is now an uninhabited desolation. An unbroken silence reigns -within its palaces, the wild Arab refuses to pitch his tent within the -crumbling walls, and the shepherd declines to lead his flock amid its -wild flowers and rich grasses. Rank weeds grow where royal feet trod, -the shy fox barks and the hungry jackal wails where kings reigned, -and sobbing winds sigh responsive to moaning waves where the voice of -revelry was heard. As the ancient population of the city, consisting of -200,000 souls, could not have resided within the walls of the acropolis, -our first attempt was to ascertain the location and direction of the -outer wall. Riding to the east of the town, we could trace a regular -mound sweeping from shore to shore in the form of a semi-circle, now -covered with rubbish, and overgrown with high weeds. Returning, we -ascended the second or inner wall, which is well preserved, and is -exceedingly strong. On the south, east, and north it is surrounded by -a deep moat, and is flanked on three sides by bastions surmounted with -towers 120 and 150 feet apart. Commencing on the shore, the north wall -runs inland a distance of 900 feet; forming an angle at this point -with the eastern wall, the latter extends southward 1728 feet, where -it joins the south wall, which runs to the sea, a distance of 657 feet. -Having an altitude of more than 70 feet, this wall is supported by 17 -bastions. To increase its defensive power, the eastern wall is double, -one portion being perpendicular and the other oblique. Near the -northeast angle is a large gateway, the chief entrance to the town on -the east; and in the southern wall, near the shore, there is another -gate, surmounted by one of the watch-towers of the olden city. - -Measuring half a mile in length and a quarter in breadth, the whole -area within this inclosure is covered with heaps of rubbish, with deep -intervening pits; and on the one and in the other grow marigolds, white -daisies, chess, thistles, and brambles. Not a fragment of Cæsarea’s -temple remains to be identified, and on its site are the ruins of -the Cathedral of Cæsarea, in which the learned Eusebius officiated as -bishop of the diocese for more than a quarter of a century. Of this -noble edifice four large buttresses are standing, which, from their -height, are seen from afar, presenting an imposing appearance to the -traveler, whether his approach is from the plain on the east or from -the sea on the west. Though a complete ruin, the outline of this early -Christian church can be traced without difficulty. Constructed of -beveled stones, the interior consisted of a nave and two lateral aisles. -Originally extending 143 feet in length, 121 feet of the south wall -continue _in situ_, 13 feet in thickness. In the eastern end is the -chancel, which, consisting of three semicircular apses measuring 60 -feet in all, is the breadth of the cathedral. Standing from 16 to 20 -feet apart, and being from five to seven feet thick, the four remaining -buttresses formed the grand portico to this Christian temple. Judging -from the projection of the arch, the doorway was 12 feet high, as it -is nine wide. Beneath the church is a dark and loathsome vault 77 feet -long, gradually declining toward the east. It is now the den of jackals -and hyenas. - - Illustration: ANCIENT CÆSAREA. - -If any work of art is worthy to be called grand, it is the -Herodian harbor of Cæsarea. The breakwater described by Josephus is a -continuation of the southern wall of the acropolis, more than 300 feet -of which are still visible above the sea. Some of the stones in the -lower courses are 20 feet long, six wide, and as many thick. In the -southeast corner of the mole are the remains of a tower, reached by 20 -stone steps, and commanding a view of the entire port. The ceiling was -formerly arched, and a portion of an old arch projects from the side, -resting on the figure of a human head. Connected with this tower, and -on a level with the shore, were the apartments for the officers of -custom, the mosaic floors of which remain in excellent condition. On -the very extremity of the mole is another tower, containing a square -room 20 feet high, 30 wide, and 35 long, but the waves are fast wearing -it away. On the northern side of the harbor, flanked by stones 15 feet -long, seven wide, and six thick, are three immense gateways for the -entrance of vessels. Following the shell-strewn shore of a small bay, -we reached the end of the northern wall of the acropolis. The noble -marble pier, once extending into the sea 170 feet, is now a ruin. Its -hundred prostrate columns lie as they fell, most of them parallel to -each other, with now and then one lifting its head in silence above -its fellows, worn by the tireless surges which roll over it, careless -of its former grandeur. To me, sitting on one of those columns far -out into the sea, time passed unconsciously. The day had declined, the -golden sun was sinking into the distant ocean, and, as if an angel had -led me back into the past, I thought of the fall of empires and the -vanity of human glory. - -Hailing the first blush of returning day, I sat on the desolate shore -and read the inspired history of Cæsarea. Excepting Jerusalem, no city -in Palestine is more intimately connected with the early Christian -Church. Coming from the interior, the apostles sought the great centres -of commerce, where they preached to men of all nations their catholic -faith. Having baptized the Ethiopian eunuch, Philip the Evangelist -followed the coast, and, preaching Jesus to the inhabitants of all -the maritime cities thereon, he came to Cæsarea.[510] Thirty years -thereafter, here, with his four daughters, he resided as one of the -seven deacons of the infant church, when St. Paul and St. Luke were -his guests. It was in his house that Agabus took Paul’s girdle, and, -binding his own hands and feet, foretold the arrest and imprisonment -of the apostle to the Gentiles.[511] Arrested in the Holy City, here -Paul was brought a prisoner by order of Claudius Lysias, and somewhere -amid these ruins was the dungeon in which he was confined two years. -In obedience to Roman law, hither came Ananias the high-priest, with -the orator Tertullus, to accuse him before the governor. Here stood -the palace of the sordid Felix and his adulterous Drusilla, where -he “reasoned of righteousness, temperance, and judgment to come;” -and where he made that marvelous defense before Agrippa and Festus, -provoking the taunt from the latter, “Paul, thou art beside thyself; -much learning hath made thee mad;” and extorting the concession from -the former, “Almost thou persuadest me to be a Christian.” And from -this harbor, now the wreck of earlier grandeur, that apostle entered -the ship Adramyttium, under Julius, a centurion of Augustus’s band, -to prosecute his appeal before Cæsar, and at last to die a martyr at -Ire Fontana, beneath the walls of Rome.[512] Here was the home of the -devout Cornelius, to whom Peter came from Joppa on the coast, 33 miles -to the south, with the keys of the kingdom of heaven, to open its gates -to the Gentiles and baptize the first heathen convert. Here, in the -year 270 A.D., Eusebius Pamphili was born, and subsequently this was -the birthplace of Procopius the historian. - -Sending the baggage to Athlît, our party separated to explore the -different parts of the city, agreeing to rendezvous at night at the -above-named place. Riding down the coast with a single companion, we -first examined Herod’s amphitheatre. Located a little south of the -acropolis wall, it occupies a commanding position. Judging from the -shape of the ground, it was originally semicircular in form. Much -of the masonry has survived the waste of time, and among the broken -granite columns is one nine feet in circumference. The arena has an -eastern and western diameter of 69 feet, and a northern and southern -diameter of 78 feet. The seats are of stone, arranged in tiers, and -recede as they ascend, giving a slope from the bottom of the arena to -the outside of the uppermost seat of 90 feet. The width of the eastern -wall, from the highest tier of seats to its outer edge, is 75 feet, -forming a grand promenade. It was not possible to determine whether -this is an embankment of earth faced with masonry or a solid wall. It -is penetrated with arched passage-ways, like those in the amphitheatres -of Capua and Pompeii, which lead to the dens and stalls of the animals -designed for the entertainment of the spectators. On the south side -is one of the principal vomitories leading to the arena; it is 11 feet -wide, 48 long, and is the only one now open. High up in the southeast -part of the building is a solitary seat, just as it was left by the -last spectator by whom it was occupied. The shape of the mounds on the -south indicates that the southern wall of the theatre served as part of -the city wall, as on its extreme western end are the remains of an old -watch-tower containing a circular chamber, and not far to the north are -the ruins of another, occupying a narrow neck of land commanding the -approaches to the coast. It is evident, from the present appearance of -the mounds, that originally the walls extended to the shore, agreeing -with the description of Josephus that “it was conveniently situated for -a prospect to the sea.”[513] - -With this theatre stands connected one of the most mournful tragedies -of Bible times. Having murdered the Apostle James and attempted the -life of Peter, Herod Agrippa came from Jerusalem to Cæsarea to call -to account the citizens of Tyre and Sidon, who had incurred his royal -displeasure. Arrayed in robes of gold and silver texture, Herod entered -the theatre on a festive day to deliver an oration to his subjects. -According to an ancient custom, it was early in the morning, and the -sun’s rays, falling upon his resplendent garments, dazzled the eyes of -the beholders, who, in a delirium of joy at the brilliant spectacle, -and at the same time affected by the eloquent tones of his voice, rose -_en masse_ and cried out, “It is the voice of a god and not of a man. -Be thou merciful to us; for, although we have hitherto reverenced thee -only as a man, yet shall we henceforth own thee as superior to mortal -nature.” In this moment of divine homage he looked up and saw above -him, on a rope, an owl, a bird of ill omen. It was the messenger of his -departure. Refusing to rebuke this impious flattery, “the angel of the -Lord smote him, because he gave not God the glory, and he was eaten -up of worms, and gave up the ghost.”[514] Looking upon his flatterers -as he expired, the dying king exclaimed, “I, whom ye call a god, am -commanded presently to depart this life, while Providence thus reproves -the lying words you have just said to me; and I, who was by you -called immortal, am immediately to be hurried away by death.”[515] The -construction of the theatre is in harmony with these serious facts. The -imperial throne being on the west side of the edifice, toward the shore; -the auditors sitting with their backs toward the east; and the building, -like all structures of the kind in Eastern countries, having no roof, -the rising sun shone with dazzling brightness upon the monarch’s robes, -transforming him into an object of indescribable magnificence, and -awakening the acclamations of the people. - -Riding eastward through lacerating thorns and briers, we saw a red -granite block, 35 feet long, five wide, and four thick, lying upon -its broad surface, and near it another of less dimensions. Beyond them, -to the north, is Herod’s circus for chariot racing. It consists of -an oblong basin with embanked sides. The three conical shafts of red -granite, averaging from eight to ten feet in length, which marked the -goal of the ancient course, are still standing; and in the midst of -a field not far to the northwest is a deep well, 20 feet in diameter, -with circular mouthpiece and arched roof. - -The ride from Cæsarea to Mount Carmel is less remarkable for its -Biblical antiquities than for the pleasures of the tour. It was -11 A.M. when we regained the shore, and I rejoiced in the mysterious -companionship of the sea. The aqueducts of Herod extended for miles on -our right, and, though dry, are in a good condition. The coast is here -lined with low black rocks, against which the waves dash wildly, the -spray reflecting the rainbow. At midday we came to the Nahr Zurka, or -the Crocodile River of Strabo and Pliny, which is a clear and fordable -stream. Having its source among the hills on the east, it flows down -a pretty glen, amid wild flowers and dense shrubbery. To the left is -a low promontory, jutting into the sea, and covered with the shapeless -remains of some unknown light-house. To the right the Samarian Hills -creep down to the shore. The beach soon widened, and was strewn for -miles with white and purple shells to the depth of several feet. In two -hours we passed Tantûra, the Dor of the Scriptures, whose king was the -ally of Jabin of Hazor.[516] It is a small village of 30 houses; and on -an islet to the west is an old tower, which, like an ancient landmark, -is seen from Cæsarea to Carmel. Passing the small towns of Kefr Naum -and Surafend on the right, we reached Athlît at six P.M. on Saturday, -and pitched our tents on a beautiful lawn, beneath the walls of the -_Castellum Peregrinorum_. This is the second most interesting city of -Phœnicia, but the date of its origin and the name of its founder are -unknown. With ruins as vast and grand as those of Cæsarea, the style -of the architecture is superior to that of the city of Herod. Unnoticed -by sacred and profane historians, its name remained in obscurity -till the twelfth century, when the Crusaders selected it as the chief -landing-place for pious pilgrims _en route_ for the Holy City, calling -it the “Pilgrims’ Castle.” It occupies a rocky promontory, and is -bounded on the west by the ever-majestic sea, and on the east by green -hills and fertile plains. Crossing the headland from bay to bay are -the remains of an outer wall, which once inclosed a quadrangular area -a mile in extent. Within this inclosure stood the citadel, inclosed by -a wall 15 feet thick and 30 high. It was constructed of pure Phœnician -stones, and was penetrated by three gates, two on the east and one on -the south, which were reached by stone steps. Opposite the southern -gate is a massive pier 12 feet wide and 150 long, most of which is -still above the water. Here the shore is covered with prostrate columns, -fallen pendentives, broken entablatures, and marred cornices. Rising -out of the sea are sections of the western wall, the southern end of -which is formed of circular stones 12 feet in circumference. Originally -there sprang from this wall a lofty arcade 35 feet wide, and beneath -it ran an arched passage-way across the entire promontory. In the -northwest corner is a large room, to the very door of which vessels -came to land their passengers and discharge their cargoes. To the -northeast of this arcade is a plain Gothic church 20 feet wide and -133 long. The ceiling is supported by 12 arches, springing from as many -plain brackets, each arch culminating in an elegant embossed flower. -The interior is reached by a single door, and its one square and two -pointed windows look upon the sea. - -Consisting of a few huts, occupied by inhabitants as filthy as they -are wretched, the modern town of Athlît is piled upon the ruins of the -ancient acropolis. Beneath the citadel are immense vaults, supporting -the formidable fortress above. In the midst of these huts stands the -once magnificent Gothic church of the Crusaders. The remaining wall -is 80 feet high, and is divided into sections by ribs, which rest upon -the heads of human figures. These arches, no doubt, spanned the eastern -aisle of the church in the days of its glory. Such are the splendid -ruins of Athlît. Impressed with its greatness, I experienced the novel -emotions of gazing upon a decayed city whose powerful citizens are -without a record in history. Enumerating Dor and its towns, Joshua may -have included Athlît; or, if it existed at that time, it may not have -been possessed by Issachar. - -Two roads lead from the “Pilgrims’ Castle” to Mount Carmel, one -along the coast to Haifa, the other through the Vale of Dor. We took -the latter: the path leads over rich plains, where reapers and gleaners -were gathering the ripened grain. To the east the trees and blades of -corn seemed to rise out of water, but we soon discovered that it was -a mirage. In an hour we reached the mouth of a narrow mountain defile. -To the south of the entrance are two remarkable caves, which some time -have been human habitations. The larger of the two is 300 feet long -and 50 wide. The sides and top are formed into sections by 13 natural -arches, resembling the ribbed ceiling of a Gothic church. The bottom -of the cave declines inward, and near its termination the percolated -water drops from the fretted roof. Entering the mountain gorge, the -lofty hills on either side are covered with oaks, hawthorn, myrtle, -and acacias, and flowers bloomed along the grassy vale. The Sabbath -silence that reigned within was unbroken save by the cooing of the -dove in its mountain home, and the scream of the eagle as he flew from -his inaccessible eyry. The hills soon receded, and the broad valley -was dotted with oaken groves and fields of pasture, where herds of -cattle and flocks of sheep and goats were browsing. Passing through the -village of Asifriah, we descended a steep path leading into a ravine -of extraordinary grandeur. Descending the glen, between mountains which -arose thousands of feet above us, we turned to the north and began -the ascent of Carmel. For two hours we ascended a mountain path steep -and rugged, lined with oaks, acacias, and flowers, when we gained -the summit of the sacred mount, and stood with Elijah of Tishbe, and -Elisha, the son of Shaphat. - -Branching off from the northern portion of the mountains of Samaria, -Carmel is a bold and grand promontory projecting into the sea. Running -in a northwesterly direction, it is the boundary-line between the Plain -of Sharon on the south and that of Phœnicia on the north. Rising 2000 -feet above the sea, it is 18 miles long and five wide. Covered with -evergreen oaks, it is appropriately called “The Fruitful Field.” As -the type of natural beauty, Isaiah compares the returning glory of his -nation to the “excellency of Carmel,”[517] while Amos predicts that -“the top of Carmel shall wither,”[518] as descriptive of the utter -ruin of his country. From the summit the eye rests upon one of the -noblest landscapes in the world. To the west is that “great sea” seen -by the prophet’s servant; to the south are the Mountains of Samaria; -to the north the Hills of Nazareth; while to the east is the Plain of -Esdraelon, stretching far away to the Jordan in vast undulations, and -dotted with Gilboa, Little Hermon, and Mount Tabor. - -But the glory of Carmel is its sacred associations. In the darkest -hour in Jewish history, when Jehovah’s altars were thrown down and his -prophets slain, hither Elijah invited the priests of Baal to test by -fire the superiority of their respective gods. The priests conceding -the existence of Elijah’s God, the contest was to decide whether -Jehovah or Baal should be the supreme divinity of the land. Chastened -by the evils of a long drouth, the people were prepared for a procedure -so extraordinary. Ahab, over whom the infamous Jezebel had gained the -ascendency, was upon the throne of Israel; and, while lost to all the -better feelings of woman’s nature, and irreclaimably abandoned to the -worst forms of idolatry, there remained no hope in the case of the -queen, yet such a divine interposition might act for good on the mind -of the king. - -Midway the mountain there is an upland plateau, commanding a view of -the entire plain. In this recess there is a noble fountain, three feet -square, shaded by oaks, and rising above it is that bold and rocky peak -which the prophet’s servant ascended to watch the rising cloud. Here, -in full view of Ahab’s palace, the sacrifices were offered. From the -loose rocks that here abound were taken the stones to build the altars. -From these forests was hewn the wood on which the offerings were placed. -From this mountain spring, either miraculously preserved from becoming -dry during the long drouth, or created by a divine power for the -occasion, were drawn the twelve barrels of water to fill the trench -around the altar of Elijah. From the pasture-fields below, up these -slopes, came the bullocks to be sacrificed; while, covering the gentle -declivities, and extending in vast concentric circles to the plain -beneath, and clinging to every crag and tree above, the people were -gathered to witness the most interesting of all sacrificial scenes. -Around their altar stood the king and priests of Baal, while, wrapped -in his mantle, Elijah stood alone. From morning till noon, and thence -till evening, the prophets of idolatry implored their god in vain. With -an irony that was biting as it was confusing, the prophet of Tishbe -urged them to cry aloud. It was the dawn of his triumph. Sublime in his -simplicity and strong in his isolation, Elijah invited the people near. -Repairing the Lord’s altar, he prepared the sacrifice, and, in answer -to a prayer no less brief than fervent, the fire descended and the -sacrifice was consumed, amid the acclamations of the people, “The Lord, -he is the God!” As the defamers of religion and the enemies of God and -man, the priests of Baal were led down to the banks of the Kishon, from -which they had so recently come in such pomp, and were slain. Ahab and -Elijah reascended the Mount, the former to eat and drink, the latter -to pray. Hearing, in his prophetic ear, the sound of abundance of rain, -Elijah sent his servant up to the loftiest of the mountain peaks to -watch the rising cloud from the bosom of the sea. The heavens grew -dark, the rain began to fall; and in fear lest the Kishon might not be -fordable, Ahab was commanded to hasten to his palace; while, careless -of his age, and in the spirit of a loyal subject to a king whom he had -humbled in the presence of his people, Elijah girded up his loins, and -ran before the chariot of Ahab to the entrance of Jezreel.[519] - -Consecrated by an event so remarkable, Carmel subsequently became the -abode of Elisha. It was while looking down, one afternoon, upon this -same great plain he saw the “woman of Shunem” coming in behalf of her -only son. He sent Gehazi to inquire the object of her visit; but she -passed him by, and, pressing up this hill, laid her complaint before -him. Descending from his mountain retreat, he hastened to her home of -sorrow and restored her child to life.[520] - -In after years Carmel was regarded with a superstitious veneration even -by the learned heathen. Here Pythagoras passed some time in solitary -meditations, and hither Vespasian came to consult the oracle which -became so famous. - - - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Plains of Palestine. ―― No Farm-houses. ―― Great Plain of - Esdraelon. ―― Its Fertility. ―― Topography. ―― River Kishon. - ―― World’s Battle-field. ―― Waters of Megiddo. ―― Deborah and - her Victory. ―― Jeneen. ―― Bethshean. ―― Encampment. ―― Modern - Sheikhs and ancient Patriarchs. ―― City of Ruins. ―― Jabesh - Gilead. ―― Pella. ―― Gideon’s Fountain. ―― Mount Gilboa. ―― - Battles. ―― Jezreel. ―― Napoleon and the Turks. ―― Shunem. - ―― Nain. ―― Endor. ―― Witch’s Cave. ―― Saul and Samuel. ―― - Witches. ―― Mount Tabor. ―― Its Form. ―― Woods. ―― View. ―― - Misnomer. ―― Transfiguration. ―― It occurred at Night. ―― - Argument. ―― Benighted Party. - - -THERE are two classes of plains in Palestine――those upon the sea-board, -as the Plains of Philistia, Sharon, and Phœnicia, and those of the -interior, as the Plains of Rephaim, Jericho, El-Mukhna, the Bukâ’a, and -Esdraelon. They differ from each other chiefly in location, the former -being maritime, and consequently more or less affected by the action of -the sea; the latter being inland, and subject to the influences of the -lofty mountains by which they are encompassed. Though equally beautiful, -fertile, and historically important, yet at present those upon the -coast are less cultivated and less inhabited than the others, as the -wild Bedouins, dreading the sea, prefer to pitch their tents in the -interior. Nothing evinces the degeneracy of the Syrian Arabs more -than the neglect of these vast garden-plains. Perhaps it is not so -much a proof of their degeneracy, as the Turk in Syria has never been -otherwise than what he now is――indolent as he is overbearing, the -enemy of all improvements, and the destroyer of whatever is elegant in -architecture or beneficial in good government. The proverbial richness -of the soil of Palestine is evinced by the abundance of grain annually -raised at the expense of the least possible labor. Without ever -receiving, the land is ever giving. The superficial process of plowing -resembles our mode of dragging, and the application of mineral and -other kinds of manure is a thing unknown. One often and heartily -desires to see an American farmer occupying these noble plains, with -his enlightened views of agriculture and his improved implements of -husbandry. What golden harvests, in more senses than one, would repay -his toil! He would realize the prophetic blessings pronounced on Asher, -“His bread shall be fat, and he shall yield royal dainties.” - -The custom of dwelling in villages, and not upon the land cultivated, -is fatal to the thorough development of the natural resources of any -country. You may travel for miles through the richest portions of -Palestine without seeing a human habitation. In going from Etham -to Hebron, a distance of 15 miles, and through a fertile region, we -failed to see a single dwelling, though occasionally we observed a -small village perched on a mountain top. The traveler never meets -with the clean, comfortable farm-house so common in the agricultural -districts of America. Here the people dwell in towns, and there is -a matter-of-fact meaning in the Savior’s words, “A sower went forth -to sow.” If we except its eastern branches, there is not a single -inhabited dwelling on the whole Plain of Esdraelon, and not more than -one sixth of its soil is cultivated. Occasionally are seen the black -tents of the nomadic Bedouin, who, despoiler-like, feeds his flocks -till the crop is exhausted, and then removes to another section of rich -pasturage, or, mounted on his fleet steed, scours the plain in search -of plunder. - -Whether considered as to the extent of its area, the fertility of -its soil, the beauty of its scenery, or the political and religious -importance of its history, the Plain of Esdraelon is the first of -inland plains. The southern frontier of Zebulon, it fell to the lot -of Issachar, “who saw that rest was good, and the land that it was -pleasant;” and, rather than abandon his possession, “he bowed his -shoulder to bear, and became a servant unto tribute.”[521] Extending -from the Mediterranean to the Jordan Valley, it is not unlike a vast -rent in the heart of the land. Resembling in form an irregular triangle, -its base extends a distance of 15 miles from Jenîn to the mountains -below Nazareth; and with one side measuring 12 miles long, formed -by the Hills of Galilee, the other runs along the Samarian range a -distance of 18 miles. Serving as the channel-bed of the ancient Kishon, -its apex is a narrow pass half a mile wide, opening into the Plain of -’Akka. From its base three arms branch out toward the east, divided -by Gilboa and Little Hermon. With Tabor on one side and Little Hermon -on the other, the northern branch has Nain and Endor on its southern -border, and was the path taken by the troops of Deborah and Barak when -on their way to the battle of Megiddo. Lying between Gilboa and Jenîn, -the southern branch terminates among the hills to the eastward. But, -excelling the others in extent and richness, the great central branch -descends in green and gentle slopes to the banks of the Jordan, having -Jezreel on the south and Shunem on the north, and is known in Scripture -as the “Valley of Jezreel,” where Gideon triumphed, and Saul and his -sons were slain. Having its most distant perennial source in the great -fountain of Jenîn, the famous river Kishon flows through this plain in -a northwesterly direction, and pours its brackish waters into the sea. -Called by the Arabs Nakr el-Mukuttah, it is ordinarily a clear and -rapid stream, lined on either side with flowers and dense shrubbery. -Increased in the rainy season by numberless mountain torrents, and -by springs from the base of Carmel and from the bases of the Hills -of Nazareth, it varies in depth from four to eight feet, and from 10 -to 40 in width. It is evident that it must have been swollen by some -extraordinary means to have swept away the fugitive army of Jabin. “The -stars in their courses fought against Sisera” may indicate a tremendous -storm that swept over mountain and plain, sending down torrents of -water from the mountain streams, overflowing the steep banks of the -Kishon, and sweeping on to the sea with irresistible force, bearing on -its rapid current the routed foe, who, in the confusion of defeat and -flight, had become entangled in the dense thickets that line its banks. - -But the significance of Esdraelon is its marked history. It is the -battle-field of nations. The hosts of Israel and the wild tribes of -the ancient Canaanites have met in death-grapple upon its soil, and -in later times the powerful armies of Europe contended on the fields -of El-Fûleh with the barbarous hordes of the Orient. Here Deborah and -Barak marshaled their hosts against Sisera; here Gideon encountered -the Midianites; here the Philistines fought against Saul and Jonathan; -here Benhadad put the battle in array against Ahab; here Jehu slew -Ahaziah and Joram; here the knights of mediæval times grappled with the -soldiers of the Crescent, and Napoleon and Kleber led their splendid -columns against the relentless Turks. It was a memorable day when -we traversed this plain, recalling the clamor of war, and in fancy -beholding the onset, the retreat, and fierce pursuit of mighty armies. -And equally gratified were we that those scenes of death are past, and -that flowers now bloom and harvests ripen where belligerent hosts once -fought. - -Descending from the heights of Carmel, we followed a winding path -through wooded dells to the southwest corner of Esdraelon, and in half -an hour reached Wady el-Mêlhor, “The Salt Valley,” which forms the -boundary-line between Carmel and the Mountains of Samaria. Up this -ravine the French marched in 1799 to attack Ramleh. Fording the Kishon, -our path lay along the base of the Samarian Hills, which are furrowed -by deep gorges, eleven of which are the channels of as many streamlets -flowing into the sacred river. Seven miles beyond is the battle-field -of Megiddo. Here, sweeping along the base of a high mound, are the -“waters of Megiddo,” running northward into the Kishon. On the banks of -this stream is the scene of that great battle between Barak and Sisera. -Roused by the call of a woman, the former had assembled the northern -tribes of Israel on the summit of Tabor, where he was joined by Deborah, -who led to the fight the tribes of Central Palestine. Choosing Taanach -as his rallying-point, the latter had concentrated his host with 900 -iron chariots. Approaching from different points of the plain, the -contending foes met hard by the “waters of Megiddo.” Then it was that -“the stars in their courses fought against Sisera,” as at that moment -a storm of sleet and hail gathered from the east, and, bursting over -the plain in the face of the advancing Canaanites, threw them into -confusion, and “the torrent swept them away.”[522] Springing from his -chariot, Sisera fled on foot into the neighboring mountains, where the -nail of Jael awaited him who had escaped the sword of Barak. Then, in -the moment of triumph, Deborah sang her wondrous song.[523] - -Six centuries later, here Josiah, king of Judah, fought against -Pharaoh-necho of Egypt, who was advancing to attack the King of Assyria, -and here, in the “Valley of Megiddo, the archers shot at King Josiah, -and he said, Have me away, for I am sore wounded.”[524] - -Following the southern border of Esdraelon, we reached Jeneen at -sundown, where we encamped for the night upon its beautiful lawn. -Taking an Arab guide, we started the next morning for the Beisân of -the Arabs, the Scythopolis of the Romans, and the Bethshean of the -Bible, on whose ancient walls the dead bodies of Saul and Jonathan were -fastened after the fatal battle of Gilboa. Our path lay up a low ridge -of limestone hills which overhung the valley of the Jordan on the west, -and, crossing the summit, we descended to a noble plain, well watered, -overgrown with rank weeds and briers, and dotted with the black tents -of wandering Bedouins. Pausing for a moment, we examined, as far as -modesty and safety would allow, the encampment of these nomads. Around -their tents flocks and herds were grazing, watched by the faithful -dog and guarded by mounted patrolmen, who scoured the plain for a mile -in circumference, to discover, if possible, the lurking-place of some -neighboring plunderer. In an open tent “two women were grinding at a -mill,” while others were kneading bread and spinning flax. Every thing -about the encampment wore the aspect of a semi-barbarous state, and -the question rose in our minds more than once as to the tent-life of -Abraham and his sons. In many points there is an evident similarity. -Like the nomads of the present day, the patriarchs wandered from place -to place; their property consisted of herds of cattle, and flocks of -sheep and goats; their women, to whose lot it fell to grind, spin, and -cook, occupied separate tents, as in modern times; and, like them, they -were constantly liable to be surprised and plundered; hence then as now, -all the males went armed for the protection of their property. But here -the parallel ends. There is no comparison as to personal excellence, -domestic refinement, and social dignity. If the words and acts of a man -reveal his heart and manifest his condition, then the history of those -venerable patriarchs bespeaks a purity of character, a refinement of -social life, and a dignity of private and public behavior not unworthy -the best state of society in this Christian age. - - Illustration: WOMEN GRINDING AT A MILL. - - Illustration: ARAB ENCAMPMENT. - -Reaching Bethshean at noon, we found a wretched modern village of -500 Egyptians, whom Ibrahim Pasha had colonized there to protect his -frontier, but who are now cruelly oppressed by the wild nomads of the -Ghôr. The ancient city was one of the strong-holds of Palestine, which -the Israelites were never able to take. It lies in the line of the -great caravan route from Damascus to Egypt, and is the same traveled -by the Ishmaelites who bought Joseph. Like most of the cities of that -distant age, it was built upon a hill, with a walled acropolis crowning -the summit. Increasing in wealth and population, the limits of the town -were extended to the plain below. Covering a space of more than three -miles in circumference, the piles of massive ruins which remain no less -indicate the strength of the position than the elegance and affluence -of the city. The religious temples of Bethshean were the boast of its -citizens, and, judging from the number and finish of the remaining -marble columns, they must have equaled in magnificence those of more -renowned places. But time has wrought what the marshaled hosts of -Israel could not accomplish. Bethshean is a desolation; its site and -environs are covered with acres of thorns and brambles; the famous -Roman arch, that spanned the streamlet on the east, is broken; the -impregnable wall, upon which the lifeless bodies of Saul and his sons -were suspended in derision, has fallen; the proud temples of Ashtaroth, -that resounded with songs of triumph over the slain, are no more, and -solitary columns rise up amid weeds and thistles, like spectres in the -silent vales. The only remaining building is the amphitheatre, having -a diameter of 180 feet. Though comparatively well preserved, with all -the interior passages and doors nearly perfect, it is so overgrown -with weeds and lacerating briers that we examined it with the greatest -difficulty. - -From the summit of the acropolis we obtained a view which was as -interesting as it was commanding. Four hundred feet below us lay the -Valley of the Jordan. Measuring more than three miles in width, it is -every where well watered, green, and fertile, and dotted with thickets -of tamarisk. Directly opposite rose the Mountains of Gilead, in the -side of which stood the town of Jabesh Gilead, whose valiant men, under -cover of the night, rescued the remains of Saul and his sons, and, -recrossing the Jordan, interred them in their own town, beneath a -venerable oak.[525] And in the same direction is the site of ancient -Pella, the first city of refuge under the Christian dispensation. -Called by the natives Tŭbŭkat Fahil, it is a plateau in the mountain’s -side 1000 feet above the Jordan. More than a mile in length, it is half -a mile in width. The soil is a bright red, and the terrace is bordered -with verdure, and so singularly formed that the mountains seemed to -have receded to give place to the persecuted sons of God. - -On leaving this city of ruins we crossed a stone bridge 35 feet wide -and 75 long, and entered the “Valley of Jezreel.” It is the central -branch of the great plain of Esdraelon, and is bounded on the north by -Little Hermon and on the south by Mount Gilboa, both of which ridges -run eastward and overhang the Jordan valley. This vale is three miles -wide, and through its centre flows the Jalûd to the Jordan, which is -a clear and noble stream. Extending from its banks to the base of the -hills on either side are fertile fields, on which, at intervals of -two miles, were Arab encampments. To distinguish it from Mount Hermon -proper, the ridge on the northern border of this vale is called Little -Hermon, having received this appellation from the ecclesiastics of the -fourth century, who erroneously supposed, from its contiguity to Mount -Tabor, that the Psalmist referred to it in that sublime passage: “The -north and the south, thou hast created them; Tabor and Hermon shall -rejoice in thy name.”[526] Shapeless and barren, it has neither natural -beauty nor historical interest. It has its greatest height toward the -west, and its eastern end gradually slopes down into a broad plateau of -table-land. But its companion ridge, known as Mount Gilboa, is at once -remarkable for its appearance and its historical associations. It is -neither high nor rugged, but low and rolling. At a distance it appears -smooth and shadowy, but a nearer view reveals the slight gullies that -furrow its sides and the bolder ledges projecting from its summit. In -its northern base, less than two miles from Zer’in, is the large and -famous fountain of ’Ain Jalûd, where Gideon’s men evinced their courage -by lapping water. Without exception, it is the most beautiful fountain -in Palestine. Issuing from two deep caves at the base of Gilboa, the -limpid water spreads out into a basin of solid rock 50 feet in diameter. -The water is clear and delicious. From the sides and tops of the -caverns depend trails of fern, maiden’s hair, and other water-plants. -Around the border of this basin, and on the banks of the stream that -flows from it, is ample room where Gideon’s men might have tested and -proved their courage. Called by the inspired writer “the Well of Harod,” -or the “Spring of Trembling,” it evidently derives its name from -those decisive words of Jehovah: “Whosoever is fearful and afraid, -let him return and depart early from Mount Gilboa.”[527] For centuries -this was the rendezvous of many a hostile army. From its pure waters -Gideon crossed the plain at dead of night, and with his pitchers, and -lights, and trumpets, surprised the Midianites;[528] and, years after, -Saul encamped at the “Fountain of Jezreel.”[529] Clad in disguise, he -descended the southern border of the plain, and, crossing Little Hermon -below Shunem, he went to consult the Witch of Endor as to the fortunes -of the coming day. A little to the northwest from the spring the -mighty army of the Philistines lay encamped before Shunem, and when -the morning came they descended the gently-sloping plain and began the -onset; and the fierce Amalekites drove the army of Saul up the rocky -acclivities of Gilboa, where, on the favorite battle-field of the king -and his sons, “The shield of the mighty was vilely cast away, even the -shield of Saul, as though he had not been anointed with oil.”[530] - -In less than half an hour’s ride from ’Ain Jalûd we stood amid the -desolations of Jezreel, the empire city of Ahab, and the residence -of his cruel and impious queen. Situated on the crest of a low spur -projecting into the plain from Gilboa, it is but little higher than the -plain itself, except on the north side, where there is a descent of 100 -feet. Twenty miserable huts compose the modern town of Zer’in, together -with a square antique tower called an “inn.” Excepting a few sarcophagi, -with sculptured ornaments and heaps of rubbish, there is nothing to -remind the traveler of the royal city of Jezreel. Here the infatuated -Jezebel planned the destruction of the Lord’s prophet; and here, having -first accomplished his death, she confiscated the property of Naboth, -reserving for her weak-minded husband the long-coveted vineyard. Though -no sign for its identification remains, it must have been to the east -of her palace, as the two kings met the relentless Jehu coming from -Ramoth Gilead, which is on the east, “in the portion of Naboth.” Here, -in the conflict that ensued, Joram was slain on the spot; the queen -was trampled under the hoofs of Jehu’s horses, while King Ahab, hoping -to escape by flight over the plain to En-gannim, was overtaken by his -pursuers, and died of his wounds at Megiddo.[531] Here all the sad -details of the fearful judgments pronounced against the house of Ahab -have been fulfilled, and, were it not for the imperishable places -around, it would be impossible to identify the site of Jezreel, where -Jezebel held her murderous orgies. - -Three miles to the northwest, on the direct road to Nazareth, -stands the tower of El-Fûleh, where Napoleon, with 3000 Frenchmen, -successfully resisted the attack of 30,000 Turks during a period of -six hours, and finally routed his powerful foe. But we had lingered too -long on the heights of Zer’in, as night had set in, and we were an hour -hunting for our encampment. Riding through fields of wheat and barley, -we crossed the Valley of Jezreel, and, after a journey of three miles, -arrived at the small village of Shunem, called by the inhabitants Sôlem. -Though destitute of architectural elegance, its environs are beautified -with large and fruitful gardens. Occupying the lower slope of Little -Hermon, it consists of a few Arab huts, without a single vestige of -antiquity. Belonging to the tribe of Issachar, it was the home of that -“great woman” who built a “little chamber on the wall” for the Prophet -Elisha, and here she “embraced a son” as a reward for her hospitality, -and received that son from the dead as a farther expression of the -divine regard. Her house, with the “little chamber on the wall,” is -gone, but yonder is the field whither the child of promise “went to his -father to the reapers,” where he received the fatal _coup de soleil_, -and from which he was carried back to his mother. Fifteen miles to -the southwest, but in full view, is the blue ridge of Carmel, where -the prophet and his servant Gehazi lived in solitude, and over this -intervening plain the disconsolate mother rode to lay her complaint -before the “man of God,” who, yielding to entreaties, returned with her -to Shunem, and called back the spirit of her departed son.[532] Behind -the town is the “Hill of Moreh,” along the base of which the Midianites -lay when surprised by Gideon, and where the Philistines were encamped -the night preceding the battle of Gilboa. - - Illustration: JEZREEL. - -Winding round the western base of Little Hermon, in less than an -hour we came to Nain, whose name is suggestive of the most tender -associations. Situated on a low mountain spur, its dwellings are small -and its inhabitants are few. Directly opposite, standing forth in -all its beauty, is Mount Tabor, and rising up beyond, far away on the -horizon, is the white cone of Hermon. Though fortune has lavished no -favor on this quiet hamlet, yet Christ has linked its memory with one -of his most touching miracles. To the east of the village are tombs -in the hill-side, where the people now, as of old, bury their dead. -It was probably to one of these ancient sepulchres that his neighbors -were bearing the “young man” to his burial when Jesus, coming from the -north, met the funeral procession, and in tones of divine compassion -sweetly whispered to the disconsolate mother, “Weep not,” while, with -an authority that knew no barrier, he touched the bier and commanded, -“Young man, I say unto thee, Arise.”[533] Three miles to the northeast, -located on a rocky acclivity, is the small village of Endor. The path -thither crosses the northern shoulder of Jebel ed-Duhy, and, entering -the Plain of Esdraelon, diverges to the right up the hill on which the -town stands. The transition between Nain and Endor is too sudden to -be pleasant. Tender-hearted mothers and beguiling old witches are too -unlike to be grouped together in the same picture or visited the same -day. Endor is a wretched place of 30 huts, and the noble view afforded -from its rocks is the only natural charm of the village. The sides -of the hills that rise above it contain many large and curious caves, -some of which are used for human habitations. Tradition has designated -the most remarkable one of the number as the sibylline home of the -famous witch of Endor. It is a deep and solemn cave. The entrance is -guarded by two massive rocks, between which there is a large fig-tree, -imparting an air of secrecy to the spot. Within the cavern is a spring -of crystal water, and from the rocks above and on either side trails -of maiden’s hair depend like curtains of Mechlin lace. From its inner -chambers come deep and mournful echoes, and the alternate light and -darkness within gives to the cave an air of witchery. Placed under -the ban of the kingdom, with a price set upon her head, it is not -unreasonable that the Pythoness of Endor should have sought a retreat -so difficult of access in which to perform her necromantic feats. -Celebrated for her skill, it was to her the troubled Saul repaired, -in the darkness of an ever-memorable night and in the disguise of -a peasant, to revive, if possible, his broken spirit by hopeful -disclosures of the coming day. With a duplicity only equaled by her -depravity, she evoked the venerable Samuel. Not in obedience to her -call, but to forewarn the heart-broken king, the venerable prophet, -“covered with a mantle,” appeared, and announced with more than Delphic -authority, “To-morrow shalt thou and thy sons be with me.”[534] - - Illustration: NAIN. - -The witch of Endor has left to her female descendants the impress -of her brazen-facedness. There is an archness in their countenances -and a boldness in their behavior not characteristic of woman in -any other part of Palestine. Mounting a horse like a man, they ride -with a swiftness and daring hardly excelled even by the plundering -Bedouin. Destitute of all those finer virtues which belong to Christian -womanhood, they are as vicious as they are uncouth. Not suspecting -their honesty, I had left a leather pouch upon the ground which -contained many valuables while I pressed a few ferns from the sibyl’s -cave. Returning to the spot, it was gone. All swore by the beard of -the Prophet they had not seen it. Threats made no impression upon -their fears, and they smiled in scorn at being reported to the Pasha. -In a moment the town was aroused, and our threats were returned with -a shower of stones; but, revolver in hand, we commenced the search -of every hovel. Descending a narrow pass in the rocks, I saw a woman -standing in the mouth of a cave whose countenance excited my suspicion, -and, offering her a _baksheesh_, she drew from the ample folds of her -bosom the stolen pouch, with a shamelessness not unworthy Endor’s elder -witch. - -Three miles to the north, diagonally across the northern branch of -Esdraelon, stands the Mount of Transfiguration. Whether considered -for its natural beauty or as the scene of many thrilling historic -events, Tabor is second only to Olivet in religious interest among -all the sacred mountains. Separated from the surrounding hills except -on the northwest, it stands out alone, having its base swept by the -magnificent Plain of Esdraelon. Its shape changing with the stand-point -of the beholder, it is not easy to define its graceful form. Having -seen it from every point of the compass, its variant forms added not -a little to my impressions of its extraordinary beauty. Viewed from -the Heights of Carmel, it resembled a truncated cone; seen from the -northern Hills of Galilee, it reminded me of the Pyramids of Egypt; -from the Mountains of Samaria it appeared like the segment of a great -circle; while from the summit of Jebel ed-Duhy and from the plain below -it was not unlike a terraced mound or woodland park. More than two -thirds of its sides on the east and north, up to its very summit, are -covered with noble oaks and beautiful terebinths, not densely like a -forest, but with open glades between oaken groves, adorned with grass, -and strewn with pheasant-eyes, anemones, and amaranths. Its summit -is an oblong area half a mile long and a quarter wide, broken into -charming vales and hillocks, enhancing the delights of the spot. In -ascending to the top the path resembled the threads of a screw, winding -in gentle acclivities up to the highest peak. Now it led through groves -of terebinths, now over flowery beds, now verging on the edge of a bold -precipice, now entering dells sombre with the thick foliage of stately -oaks, and anon opening into glades where the grass was green and the -flowers fragrant. Though the heat was intense without, the path was so -smooth and shady that we gained the loftiest point in less than an hour, -where we were refreshed alike by the unbroken silence of the scene and -the unrivaled glory of the view. - - Illustration: MOUNT TABOR. - -Tabor rises 2000 feet above the level of the sea, and the prospect -from its summit is one of extraordinary grandeur. The eye sweeps over -the Mountains of Samaria, the long ridge of Carmel, the Bay of Haifa, -the Plain of ’Akka, the Hills of Galilee, the lofty peak of Safed, the -“Horns of Hattîn,” the majestic form of Hermon, the gray walls of Moab, -the dark line of verdure defining the banks of the Jordan, while nearer -are the slopes of Gilboa, the rocks of Duhy, and the glorious Plain of -Esdraelon, like one unbroken sea of verdure, with its borders dotted -with the hamlets of Jezreel, El-Fuleh, Shunem, Nain, and Endor. And -no less significant is the thrilling history of Tabor. Tabor was the -northern boundary-line of the tribe of Issachar;[535] here the heroic -Deborah and Barak assembled the children of Zebulon and Naphtali to -fight against Sisera;[536] years later it was the rendezvous of the -brothers of Gideon――“each one resembled the children of a king”――whom -Zebah and Zalmunna slew;[537] and at a later period it became the scene -of Israel’s idolatry, whose priests Hosea denounces for having “been -a snare on Mizpah and a net spread on Tabor.”[538] Bold in its outline -and firm upon its everlasting base, the inspired writers chose it as a -symbol of glory――“Tabor and Hermon shall rejoice in thy name,”[539] and -as typical of the Lord’s unchangeable word, “Surely as Tabor is among -the mountains, and as Carmel is by the sea, so shall Pharaoh come.”[540] -Naturally one of the strong-holds of the land and the key of the -plain, it became in our own era the head-quarters of Josephus, as it -had been in the year 218 B.C. the strong-hold of Antiochus the Great. -But there is one historic honor which does not belong to Tabor, and, -if it did, would not enhance the glory of its associations. Proverbial -for the application of real or fancied names to the scenes of the great -events in their martial annals, and ever fond of a high-sounding name, -the French have designated the conflict which occurred on the Plains of -El-Fuleh as the “Battle of Mount Tabor.” But as the village of El-Fuleh, -where Kleber met the advanced guard of the Turks, and which afterward -became the central point of attack, is ten miles to the southeast from -Tabor, with equal propriety it might have been called the battle of -Mount Carmel, and with greater consistency the battle of Mount Gilboa. -The simple fact of Napoleon’s army coming from Nazareth and sweeping -round the northeastern base of Tabor is not sufficient to justify the -misnomer, nor warrant the application of the name of this most sacred -of “mountains” to a battle fought by a chieftain who had invaded the -Holy Land on an ambitious crusade. - -But the glory of Tabor is the transfiguration of our Lord. Anxiously -I sought to identify the spot of that wondrous scene, that I might look -up into the same serene heavens from which came the voice of approval, -and in which appeared Moses and Elias. High up on the northern slopes, -far away from the ruins of the ancient village, is a lovely glade, -inclosed with oaks and adorned with flowers. Shut in from the world, -all nature breathes a sense of repose, and a holy quiet reigns within -undisturbed. The view of the blue skies is unobstructed, and here in -the “stilly night,” watched only by the stars, the Son of God held -converse with Moses and Elias touching “his decease which he should -accomplish at Jerusalem;” and, as a pre-intimation of his glorified -body after his ascension, “the fashion of his body was altered, and -his raiment was white and glistening.” - -For nearly sixteen centuries Tabor has been regarded as the -veritable scene of this great event, and not till within a few years -has its claim been called in question. The chief argument against this -venerable tradition is drawn from the itinerary of the Evangelists, -in which Cæsarea Philippi is mentioned as the last place where Christ -had taught previous to his transfiguration. It has been suggested that -the probable scene of the event is somewhere on the southern ridge of -Hermon. More than once, while on its noble summit, I had occasion to -regret that the doubt of its identity had been suggested to my mind, -and the more so as the author of the suggestion had nothing better -to offer; but the examination which I felt compelled to make not only -removed all reasonable doubts, but, proving entirely satisfactory, -confirmed the impression of earlier years, and added to the joy of the -moment. If our Lord had been transfigured immediately or on the next -day after the conversation with his disciples touching men’s opinions -as to himself, there would be some force in the objection; but two of -the evangelists inform us that the event occurred six days[541] after -this conversation, and St. Luke assures us it took place “about eight -days after these sayings.”[542] The distance between Cæsarea Philippi -and the summit of Tabor is less than 18 hours, or less than 54 miles, -which, on foot or otherwise, can be accomplished in less than three -days, thus giving sufficient time for the journey between the two -places. And it is a fact equally significant, that immediately after -our Lord had been transfigured we find him in the vicinity of Tabor -at Capernaum, which is but 21 miles over an excellent road to the -northeast; thence crossing the Jordan at the head of the lake, “he -departed from Galilee, and came into the coasts of Judea beyond -Jordan;”[543] all of which is consistent with the location of the -several places in leaving Mount Tabor for the north, but which would -not be true if our Lord came southward from the slopes of Hermon. It -has also been objected that, from the days of Joshua to the time of -Antiochus the Great, Tabor has been an inhabited mountain, and, as -such, would have been inappropriate for the retirement of Christ and -his three disciples; but history simply intimates that during fifteen -centuries the mount had been the rendezvous of belligerent armies, and -that, in process of time, its summit was fortified; but in the times -of Josephus the defenses had fallen into decay, and he caused them to -be rebuilt about thirty years subsequent to our Lord’s ascension. If -inhabited at all when Christ ascended its verdant slopes, it was only -by a few wretched villagers, such as may be seen in their mud huts, or -clinging to ancient ruins in other parts of Palestine; and, though its -summit were inhabited, yet, owing to the peculiar configuration of the -mount, its high northern acclivities are singularly retired. It is a -remarkable fact, that, though accustomed to withdraw from the world for -meditation and prayer, Christ never chose a “howling wilderness” as the -place of his devotion, but always an inhabited mountain. Even the Mount -of Olives, rendered doubly sacred by the frequency of his presence, -was in his day, as now, a populous mountain, but in some of its wooded -dells was his bower of prayer. Jesus sought the haunts of men, and, -like a great warrior sleeping in the midst of his camp, he was ever -with his people. St. Luke more than intimates that the transfiguration -occurred during the darkness and silence of the night. Referring to the -miracle wrought immediately after the descent, he states, “And it came -to pass, that on the next day, when they were come down from the hill, -much people met him.”[544] Such an hour for the display of the divine -majesty was singularly appropriate. During the day he would have been -subject to intrusion from wandering shepherds and strolling hunters on -any mountain in Palestine; but under the cover of the night he would -have been unmolested by either, as the former are stationary in the -midst of their flocks at that time, and the latter are unable to pursue -their vocation. If the vision transpired in the daytime, why were -the disciples overcome with sleep? The suggestion of Peter to build -three tabernacles or booths, or provide some temporary shelter made -of branches of trees, according to a custom still prevalent in the -East, is more than an intimation that night had overtaken them, and, -supposing their heavenly guests would tarry with them, they desired to -shelter them from the dews of the night. - -It was two o’clock on Saturday afternoon when we left the small village -of Debûrieh, at the base of Mount Tabor, for the Sea of Galilee. Riding -up a fruitful valley, in an hour we came to a branching road――one -branch leading directly to Tiberias, and the other to the mouth of -the Jordan. Either from ignorance or villainy, an Arab directed us to -follow the latter path, which caused us to be benighted, and greatly -endangered our safety. The mistake, however, was to our advantage -in the end, as we passed through a tract of country rarely visited -by travelers, owing to the turbulent and thievish character of the -population. Turning eastward, the path lay along the crest of a -mountain ridge, where the peasantry of both sexes were engaged in -husbandry. Occasionally we passed the extensive ruins of unknown -towns, and now and then entered villages remarkable only for their -wretchedness and filth. Whether to display their horsemanship or test -our courage, three mounted Arabs, armed with Bedouin swords, pistols, -and lances 20 feet long, issued from one of those miserable hamlets, -and, singing a war-song, dashed by us at a furious speed, when, -suddenly wheeling, with their lances leveled at our breasts, they -rushed toward us as if to plunge us through. Finding their equestrian -feats neither awakened our fears nor inspired our admiration, they -returned to their village and allowed us to pursue our unfrequented -path. From the summit of the mountain we were crossing we gained a -noble view of the Vale of Tiberias and its circlet of green hills. -Cheered by the prospect of reaching our destination at an early hour, -we rapidly descended 1000 feet into the wild gorge of Fejas, flanked -by lofty mountains, and followed the banks of a beautiful stream lined -with shrubbery and gorgeous oleanders. Charmed with the surrounding -scenery, and confiding in our Arab guide, we passed the hours happily, -nor were our suspicions aroused that we had been misdirected till it -was too late to retrace our steps. Referring to our maps, we found -ourselves in the wild and uninhabited Vale of Fejas, which terminates -in the valley of the Jordan, 10 miles to the south from Tiberias. -Straining our eyes, as we wound round each jutting cliff, to catch -a glimpse through the opening hills of the vale we had seen from the -heights above, at length, in the dusk of the evening, we reached the -upper terraces of the Jordan. Under other circumstances we would have -surveyed the new landscape with delight; but we were now benighted, -miles from a human habitation, in a country notorious for its robberies, -and with skies already black with the coming storm. Closing up -together so as to form a circle with our horses, we held a council, -and discussed the question of advancing or encamping for the night. Far -to the east, beyond the rushing river, we could discover, by its faint -lights, the solitary village of Kanâtir, but were not near enough to -reach it before we should be overtaken by the darkness and the storm. -Tiberias was 10 miles to the north; night was now upon us; the skies -were cloudy; the rain began to fall; the path to the ancient capital -of Galilee was unknown, and we were without a guide. Against remaining -where we were were the serious facts that our cuisine was empty, and we -were without provender for our mules and horses. Deciding to proceed, -we forded several torrents, and, on ascending a broad upland plateau, -in the darkness of the hour plunged into a marsh, into which our horses -sank to their haunches. Crossing a barley-field which had been reaped, -we met two mounted Arabs, whom we understood to say that Tiberias was -but half an hour to the north. Cheered by the good news, we urged on -our jaded beasts to their utmost speed, now stumbling over rocks, now -floundering in the soft, marshy soil. But, as we advanced, the darkness -increased; each friendly star had withdrawn its guiding ray, and the -rain fell in torrents. Part of the company made directly for the shore, -while two of us continued on the upland to report the first glimmer -of the distant lights of Tiberias. Onward we rode; the hours dragged -heavily by. Near midnight the clouds dispersed, and familiar stars -came out one by one, and looked softly down upon the lost and weary -travelers. The beautiful lake lay quietly in its mountain bed, and the -repose of night rested on all nature, undisturbed save by the rippling -wave breaking faintly on the pebbled shore, or the sudden leap of the -jackal or flight of the stork, startled by the sound of our coming. -Beguiling the weary hours by the recollections of the past, hunger and -fatigue were forgotten as the visions of other years rose up before -my mind, and, by the realization of a sublime faith, I beheld the -Redeemer treading the troubled bosom of Gennesaret in the darkness and -storm of night, as in the days of old. It was now past midnight; we -had failed to reach Tiberias; we knew not the distance to be traveled; -and, determining to encamp, we pitched our tents upon the sandy beach, -tethered our hungry horses, and, contenting ourselves with a little -rice and mish-mish, we laid down to fitful slumber. - -The peaceful Sabbath dawned without a cloud. While yet the night -struggled with the morn, I ascended a bold bluff, commanding a glorious -view. The skies were soft and warm; the mellow light of day lined the -east; the sea was placid as an embowered lake, and the surrounding -hills were yet dreamy with the haze of night. The impressions of that -hour were as hallowed as their memory is imperishable. It was the -first time, by the light of day, that I looked upon that most sacred of -lakes. Returning to the tent, we learned, to our happy surprise, from -a passing Arab, that we were within half an hour’s ride of Tiberias. -Compelled by the necessities of the case, we passed quietly up the -coast and encamped within the walls of the ancient city just as the -Jewish population, attired in their most costly robes, were hastening -to their devotions around the sepulchres of their fathers. - - - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Jerusalem and Capernaum the great Centres of our Lord’s - Ministry. ―― Christ a limited Traveler. ―― Judea and Galilee - contrasted. ―― Provinces of Galilee. ―― The Herods. ―― Meaning - of Galilee. ―― Sea of Galilee. ―― Its Characteristics. ―― - Hallowed Associations. ―― Imperial City of Tiberias. ―― Founded - by Herod Antipas. ―― His Crimes. ―― John the Baptist. ―― It - became a Jewish City and the Metropolis of the Race. ―― Home - of eminent Scholars. ―― Now an Arab Town. ―― Citizens. ―― - Miraculous Draught of Fishes. ―― Jesus never visited it. - ―― Warm Baths of Tiberias. ―― Site of Tarichea. ―― Naval - Engagement. ―― Bridge of Semakh. ―― River Jarmuk. ―― City - of Gadara. ―― Ruins. ―― Tombs. ―― Not the Scene of the - Destruction of the Swine. ―― Argument. ―― Ruins of Gamala. ―― - Near here was the Scene of the Miracle. ―― Mouth of the Jordan. - ―― Bethsaida Julias. ―― Feeding of the Five Thousand. ―― Our - Lord Walking on the Sea. ―― Home of Mary Magdalene. ―― Rich - Plain of Gennesaret. ―― Parables. ―― Site of Capernaum. ―― - Fountain of the Fig. ―― Thrilling History of the City as - connected with Christ. ―― The Woe. ―― Desolation. ―― Bethsaida. - ―― Birthplace of Peter, James, and John. ―― Not Bethsaida - Julias. ―― Influence of natural Scenery upon the Formation - of Character. ―― Chorazin. ―― Sudden Gale upon the Sea. ―― - Extensive Remains of the City. ―― Without an Inhabitant. ―― - Upper Jordan. ―― Waters of Merom. ―― Tell el-Kâdy. ―― City of - Dan. ―― Its Fountain. ―― Cæsarea Philippi. ―― Town of Hasbeiya. - ―― Fountain. ―― Highest perennial Source of the Jordan. ―― - Mount Hermon. ―― Vast and grand Prospect from its lofty - Summit. ―― Scriptural Allusions. ―― “Valley of the Pigeons.” - ―― Sublime Ravine. ―― Mount of Beatitudes. ―― Battle of Hattin. - ―― Defeat of the Crusaders. ―― Triumph of Saladin. ―― Route - to Nazareth. ―― Its authentic History is not older than the - Christian Era. ―― Its Valley and Mountains. ―― Population. - ―― Schools. ―― Legendary Sites. ―― Scene of the Annunciation. - ―― House and Shop of Joseph. ―― Pictures. ―― Fountain. ―― - Beautiful Girls of Nazareth. ―― Mount of Precipitation. ―― - True Mount. ―― View. ―― Scene of our Lord’s Childhood and - Manhood. - - -GALILEE and Judea share the mutual honor of having been the principal -spheres of our Lord’s public life. Indeed, those spheres may be reduced -to two central points, Jerusalem and Capernaum. Occasionally we trace -his footsteps to the Mediterranean――“to the coasts of Tyre and Sidon” -in the west, and among the mountains of Gilead, beyond the Jordan, on -the east; but it is an extraordinary fact that he never went south of -Jerusalem, not even to the city that gave him birth, and only as far -north as Cæsarea Philippi. Though a limited and infrequent traveler, -he chose the great centres of life in which to unfold the doctrines -he came to announce, and to perform the miracles he offered to mankind -in attestation of his divine mission. As the scene of his death, -resurrection, and ascension, Jerusalem will ever stand pre-eminent -in Christian affection; but Capernaum will ever be memorable as the -city of his adoption after his rejection by the ungrateful Nazarenes. -Spending most of his public life on the shores of the Galilean Sea, -he called his apostles from the fisheries of Gennesaret; from its -teeming population he founded his infant Church; among its inhabitants -he performed his grandest miracles; to them he delivered his most -impressive parables; and overhanging the sea is the “Mount of -Beatitudes,” the pulpit from which he preached his incomparable “sermon -on the mount.” In contrast to the cruel treatment he received in Judea, -the Galileans ever welcomed him to their cities, and “great multitudes -followed him whithersoever he went.” And after the lapse of so many -centuries, it is while passing through a region of associations and -memories so hallowed that the traveler of to-day realizes the presence -of the Lord more than in other parts of the Holy Land. - -At the death of Herod the Great his kingdom was divided into three -parts, over which his sons reigned. With his accustomed precision and -accuracy, St. Luke not only recognizes this historic fact, but defines -the territory of each division.[545] To Archelaus was assigned Idumea, -Judea, and Samaria, which embraced all that portion of Palestine from -the Jordan to the Mediterranean, and from Beersheba to the northern -border of Esdraelon. Ancient Idumea included that district of country -lying south of Judea, and extending from the southern end of the Dead -Sea to the Gulf of Akabah; but the Idumea of the Herodian era embraced -only the northern section of the Desert of Tîh, together with several -towns of Southern Palestine, with Hebron as the capital city. Though -subdued by the warlike Maccabees, and by them subjected to the rule -of Jewish prefects, the Idumæans of this latter period rose to favor -under Cæsar, who appointed Antipater procurator of all Judea, and -subsequently his son, Herod the Great, became “King of the Jews.” - -To Herod Antipas was allotted all Galilee, together with the district -of Perea, which includes that part of Palestine east of the Jordan to -Arabia, and south of Pella to Machaerus, and which in the New Testament -is called the “coasts of Judea beyond Jordan.”[546] - -To Herod Philip were given Iturea and Trachonitis. The former -extends from the northern border of Jaulân[547] to the banks of the -Jennâny, and from the eastern base of Hermon to the great caravan road -to Mecca; and the latter, adjoining Iturea on the east, includes the -lesser provinces of Batanea,[548] Gaulonitis,[549] and Auranitis, or -the modern Hauran. - -St. Luke also mentions the province of Abilene, which is north of -Iturea, and extends within 12 miles of Damascus. “It originally -included Heliopolis and Iturea, with the mountain region lying -between,”[550] and had Chalcis as the capital city, the ruins of which -remain. According to Strabo, Ptolemy, the son of Menneaus, was ruler -of the province, who, after the annexation of Syria by the Romans, -continued to hold his possessions till succeeded to the throne by his -son Lysanias. Transferring the seat of his government to Abila, on -the banks of the ancient Abana, he reigned till murdered through the -artifices of Cleopatra, to whom the kingdom was given by Mark Antony. -Subsequently passing into the hands of the tyrant Zenodorus, the -province ultimately reverted to a descendant of Lysanias, bearing the -same name, and who was “tetrarch of Abilene.”[551] - -The term Galilee is as old as Joshua.[552] Signifying a “circle” or -“circuit,” it was originally applied to the region about Kadesh, “a -city of refuge.”[553] In the reign of Solomon it designated the area -containing the twenty cities he gave to Hiram of Tyre, which were -afterward known as the “coasts of Tyre and Sidon,” and which, in the -lapse of time, having become colonized by strangers, received the -name of “Galilee of the Gentiles,” or of the “nations.”[554] Under -the jurisdiction of the Romans, Galilee was the designation of all -that magnificent region embracing the ancient tribeships of Issachar, -Zebulun, Asher, and Naphtali, which extended from the Plain of -Esdraelon to Mount Hermon, and from the Jordan to the Mediterranean. -According to Josephus, this vast section of Palestine was divided into -two parts, “called the Upper Galilee and the Lower.”[555] The latter -was bounded on the south by a line drawn from Carmel to Scythopolis, -and on the north by a line extending from the Bay of ’Akka to Tiberias, -and the former extended from this latter line on the south to Hermon on -the north, and from this point westward to the sea. - -Whether considered geographically or historically, the Sea of -Tiberias is the most remarkable feature in the physical geography -of Galilee. Either from a town upon its ancient shore or from its -harp-like shape, it was early called “the Sea of Chinnereth.”[556] At -later periods it was successively called the “Sea of Tiberias,”[557] -from the imperial city of that name standing on its western coast; the -“Sea of Galilee,”[558] because it belonged to the province of Galilee; -and, finally, the “Lake of Gennesaret,” corrupted from Cinnereth, -the title of a noble plain on its northwestern shore.[559] With a -depression of 650 feet below the level of the Mediterranean, it is 13 -miles long, six wide, and 165 feet deep. Lying in a volcanic basin, its -form is oval and its sides are shelving. Unlike the lofty and rugged -mountains which encompass the Scotch and Italian lakes, the surrounding -hills are neither high nor uniform. On the eastern coast they are steep -and barren, and rise to the height of 2000 feet; on the west they are -not so lofty, but smooth, more sloping, and are dotted with trees and -tufts of grass, and are furrowed by gentle ravines. At either end the -western hills retire, permitting the Jordan to enter the sea on the -north and to find an exit on the south. The shores are alternately -smooth and rocky. The smoother portions are strewn with beautiful -shells, while at intervals the everlasting hills plant their dark -feet upon the whitened beach. Through an open cliff and between grassy -slopes numberless streamlets pour their crystal waters into the sea, -and on their green banks gorgeous oleanders bloom and tropical flowers -fill the air with their perfume. The water is clear, cool, and sweet, -and abounds with fish, as in the days of Bethsaida’s fishermen. Though -it is almost uniformly calm, there are times when the winds rush -down the mountain gorges and up the Jordan valley, lashing the placid -waters into foam, and causing the waves to roll high and furiously. Its -beauty is most apparent in the freshness of the morning, or amid the -golden tints and purple shadows of evening; or in the sweet repose -of a summer’s moonlight night, when the serene skies, with moon and -stars, are mirrored on its quiet bosom; or during the solemn grandeur -of a thunderstorm, when the heavens scowl, the wild winds rage, the -lightning darts through the gloom in bars of fire or in sheets of light, -and along the trembling mountains the thunder rolls responsive to the -waves that madly break upon the rock-bound shore. - - Illustration: TIBERIAS AND THE SEA OF GALILEE. - -Other lakes are more exquisitely beautiful; others present to the -eye loftier forms of grandeur; but as it is impossible for the mind -to dissociate the historical from a scene like this, so the presence -of that Divine One has imparted to the “Sea of Galilee” an unparalleled -beauty, and his divine works have rendered it the most sacred of -earthly lakes. On its northwestern shore stood the city of his adoption; -from the deck of one of its fishing-boats he taught the multitude; over -its calm waters he often sailed on a voyage of mercy, or to a “desert -place” for prayer; on its troubled bosom, as on a pavement of adamant, -he walked in the “fourth watch of the night;” twice he rose in majesty, -“rebuked the winds,” and said to the waves, “Peace, be still;” and on -its shores he met his disciples after his passion and resurrection. - -Four miles from the southern end of the lake, and occupying a -plain two miles long and less than half a mile wide, stands the once -imperial city of Tiberias. Though only mentioned by the sacred writers -in connection with the sea, it fills no inconsiderable portion of -the political history of Galilee. Whether built upon the site of the -ancient city of Chinnereth or not, it evidently covers, in part, the -site of some old town, as sepulchres of great antiquity are on the -sloping plain. Coming in possession of Galilee, Herod Antipas founded -the new city, made it the capital of his kingdom, and named it after -his friend and patron, the Emperor Tiberius. Inviting citizens from -all parts to take up their residence within its walls, he granted them -extraordinary privileges, and spared neither art nor treasure to render -it worthy of his throne and palace. Here, in the day of his pride and -luxury, he so far forgot the respect due the marriage covenant and the -obligations of consanguinity as to marry Herodias, his brother Philip’s -wife. For an offense so grave and notorious the faithful and courageous -John the Baptist reproved the king, who, under the pretense of fearing -lest John might take advantage of his own popularity and instigate -a rebellion, ordered his arrest, and imprisoned him in the tower of -Machaerus. It was here in his royal palace, while holding a feast in -honor of his birthday, that Salome, the daughter of his incestuous -wife, danced before him, and pleased him to such a degree that he swore -to give her whatever she should ask, “to the half of his kingdom.” -Influenced by her infamous mother, Salome asked for “John’s head in -a charger.” Bound by his promise, the king reluctantly yielded, and -dispatching one of his guards, the noblest and purest of prophets fell -a victim to the revenge of a woman smarting under rebuke, and to the -cowardice of a prince whose mortified pride was only excelled by the -fears that tormented the dreams of his nights and the vision of his -days. Whether intentionally or otherwise, Josephus has given us the -pretense of John’s death rather than the true cause, in asserting that -Antipas feared lest he might cause a revolt; but, as if half conscious -of the injustice he had done the character of so eminent a prophet, -the Jewish historian tells us that the Jews attributed the subsequent -misfortunes of Herod to the death of John the Baptist. Retributive -justice was speedily visited upon the son of Herod the Great. Having -divorced his first wife, who was the daughter of a celebrated Arabian -prince, that he might marry Herodias, Aretas, the father of the -divorced wife, resolved to avenge the affront offered to his daughter, -and declared war against Herod, and in a single battle vanquished his -ungrateful son-in-law, and literally destroyed his army. - -Jealous of the prosperity of her brother Agrippa, who from a private -citizen had become king of Judea, Herodias persuaded Antipas to visit -Rome and request the same dignity from the Emperor Caius. Learning of -the conspiracy, Agrippa anticipated the arrival of his uncle, and -accused Antipas of conspiracy against Tiberius, and asserted that he -was then carrying on a correspondence with Artabanus, king of Parthia, -against the Romans. Convinced of the justness of the accusation, the -emperor banished him to Lyons, and afterward to Spain, where he and his -wife Herodias died in exile.[560] - -Tiberias subsequently bore a conspicuous part in the wars which -terminated in the destruction of Jerusalem, and especially during -the command of Josephus in Galilee, who fortified the city; but it -afterward capitulated to the victorious Vespasian. By this act of -voluntary submission Tiberias escaped destruction, and remained -undisturbed during those commotions ending in the overthrow of the -Jewish commonwealth. Regarding it, with Hebron, Jerusalem, and Safed, -as one of their four holiest cities, it became the chief city of the -Jews after the destruction of their renowned capital; and, subsequently -to their expulsion from Judea, they removed the Sanhedrim first to -Jamnia, on the Plain of Philistia, then to Sefforis, and finally, -in the middle of the second century, to Tiberias, which for three -centuries continued the metropolis of the race. Here, amid those -centuries of comparative repose, the most eminent of rabbins of the -nation taught in the synagogues, and founded a school for the study -of their law and language. As the head of this academy, Rabbi Judah -collected and committed to writing the great mass of Jewish traditional -law now known as the Mishnah, which was completed about the year -200 A.D. A century later, Rabbi Jochanan here compiled the Gemara -as a supplement and commentary to the former work, and which is now -usually called the Jerusalem Talmud. And from the same school, at a -later period, emanated that critical work called the Masorah, at once -designed to preserve the purity of the Hebrew text of the Old Testament -and of the language in which it was written.[561] - -Sharing the fortunes of other Syrian cities, Tiberias is now an Arab -town. Occupying a plain on the shore, formed by the mountains receding, -it is encompassed by a wall 20 feet high, 100 rods long, and 40 wide. -Describing an irregular parallelogram, the wall is supported by 10 -round towers on the west, five on the north, eight on the south, and -three on the east. Only one half of the space within the inclosure is -occupied by the present population. Most of the buildings are small -and filthy, and the streets are neither clean nor straight. The pasha’s -house and a Mohammedan mosque are the only edifices worthy of attention. -The Moslems, who are in the ascendant, number about 1200. The Jews, -who are estimated at 800, have a distinct quarter, which is in the -centre of the town. Like those in Jerusalem, they are divided into two -sects――the Sephardim, who are chiefly from Northern Africa and Spain, -and the Askenazim, who are fugitives from Russia. As a class they are -intelligent, well dressed, and of more comely appearance than those -found in other portions of Palestine. The young men are athletic and -manly in their bearing, and many of the younger Jewesses are more than -ordinarily beautiful. As we entered the gates of the city at an early -hour on a charming Sabbath morning, crowds of white-veiled Jewesses -and of venerable Jews, with long gray beards, were slowly winding -their way up the mountains that rise steeply behind the city, to offer -their prayers at the sepulchres of Rabbis Jochanan, Akabi, Maimonides, -and others of their ancestors. Still looking for the Messiah, they -entertain a prevalent tradition that he will rise from the sea, land -first in the city of Tiberias, and thence proceed to establish his -throne on the summit of Safed, a lofty and imposing mountain situated -15 miles to the northwest. Christianity in Tiberias is represented by -a solitary Latin monk. On the shore, to the north of the Jews’ Quarter, -is a small convent, traditionally marking the spot where the Savior -met the disciples after his resurrection, and where was landed the -miraculous draught of fishes.[562] But, judging from the silence of all -the evangelists, it is probable our Lord never visited this renowned -city. The population was composed of strangers and slaves, unto whom -he was not sent, and the city was built in part upon a cemetery, -which, according to a Jewish law, rendered whoever entered therein -ceremonially unclean; therefore the chief object of his mission and the -law of Moses justified him in not entering its gates. It is, however, -as remarkable as it is inexplicable that Christ should have spent so -much of his public life in the vicinity of this lake, where he was -universally known, and never have been seen by Herod Antipas till they -met in Jerusalem. St. Luke informs us that “Herod the tetrarch heard -of all that was done by him, and he was perplexed, because that it was -said of some that John was risen from the dead, and of some that Elias -had appeared, and of others that one of the old prophets was risen -again. And Herod said, John have I beheaded; but who is this, of whom I -hear such things? And he desired to see him.”[563] Our Lord having been -reared in Nazareth, “he belonged unto Herod’s jurisdiction;” and having -resided at Capernaum, which is less than eight miles to the north from -Tiberias, he was a “political subject” in the tetrarchate of Antipas. -Why did not Herod send for him? But, knowing the unscrupulous character -of the tetrarch and his wife, together with the reasons assigned above, -the Savior wisely avoided his presence; not from fear, for the pure -and exalted nature of the Redeemer never knew such a base emotion, but -rather to teach his messengers to yield to the storm rather than expose -themselves to destruction, when, from known circumstances, the case was -evidently hopeless. But the king and the Savior met at last. The former -was a guest, and the latter a prisoner in Jerusalem. Finding no fault -in Jesus, but willing to subject him to a more searching trial, Pilate -“sent him to Herod.” “And when he saw Jesus he was exceeding glad, for -he was desirous to see him of a long season, because he had heard many -things of him, and he had hoped to have seen some miracle done by him.” -Too wise and holy to display his power to gratify the curiosity of an -unprincipled king, our Lord neither performed a miracle nor answered -the senseless questions propounded to him by a vain and trifling judge. -Offended at his silence and majestic bearing, “Herod and his men of war -set him at naught, and mocked him, and arrayed him in a gorgeous robe, -and sent him again to Pilate; and the same day Pilate and Herod were -made friends.”[564] - -A mile to the south from Tiberias, and situated on the shore, are -the “Warm Baths of Emmaus,” consisting of four springs. The water has -a temperature of 144° Fahrenheit. It emits a sulphurous smell, and -is exceedingly salt and bitter to the taste. It is considered by the -natives efficacious in rheumatic complaints and in cases of debility, -and the baths are visited by invalids from all parts of the country. -Over one of the springs is a bath-house, and near the shore is another, -both of which are rapidly going to decay. As we passed, persons of all -ages and of both sexes were applying the medicinal waters, and some -were bathing in water at over 140° Fahrenheit. - -Three miles to the south of these thermal springs is the site of -ancient Tarichea. Here, on a narrow peninsula formed by the River -Jordan as it leaves the lake, are venerable ruins, around which are -the few huts of the modern town of Kerak. Being a town of considerable -importance in the Jewish wars, Tarichea was fortified by Josephus, -but stormed and taken, with great slaughter, by Titus. Having the only -large and safe harbor on the whole lake, the Jewish chieftain made it -his great naval station. With a foresight worthy of better fortunes, -Josephus here collected 230 ships, in which to escape if beaten on -land, or in which to engage the Romans in naval combat. Yielding to the -powerful arms of Titus, Tarichea fell, and the inhabitants took refuge -in their ships, and anchored in the middle of the lake. Resolved on -the utter destruction of the Jewish army, Vespasian, who was present, -immediately ordered the construction of a sufficient number of vessels -to attack the enemy, and, having completed his navy, he launched his -ships and engaged the foe. The engagement was long and sanguinary. -The sea was turned into blood, and on its discolored waters floated -the bodies of the dead. Not a Jewish vessel escaped; and for many days -succeeding the fight the shores were strewn with shipwrecks, and with -the swollen forms of the slain.[565] Thus ended the first and last -sea-fight between the Jews and Romans. Like their mighty empires, their -navies are also destroyed, and instead of that vast fleet which floated -on its bosom, there is but one boat now upon the Sea of Galilee; and, -excepting a long causeway resting on arches, through which the water -flows into the Jordan when the lake is high, there is nothing entire -remaining to mark the site of Tarichea and perpetuate its naval glory. - -A mile to the southeast from Jericho is the mouth of the Jordan, which -is ninety feet wide, with high rounded banks. Less than a mile to the -south is the old bridge of Semakh, which once spanned the sacred river, -but is now a ruin. Near it is the modern ford, the present highway -between the east and west. Through shrubberies of hawthorns, tamarisks, -and oleanders, the path runs to the small village from which the bridge -derives its name. Six miles to the south is the Jarmuk of the Hebrews -and the Hieromax of the Greeks, called by the Arabs Mandhûr: it drains -the whole plain of the Haurân and Jaulân, with a large section of the -mountain range eastward. Flowing through a wild ravine, the sides of -which are rugged cliffs of basalt 100 feet high, it enters the Jordan -four miles below the lake, and at the point of junction is more than -130 feet wide. During the Jewish commonwealth it was the boundary -between Bashan and Gilead, and during the dominion of the Romans it -defined the limits of the provinces of Perea and Gaulonitis. In the -gloomy valley through which it flows, bearing the Arabic name of -Sheri’at el-Mandhûr, are the famous “Baths of Amatha.” Consisting of -eight warm springs, they were esteemed by the Romans as second only to -those of the Italian Baiæ. Around them are clumps of dwarf palms and -the remains of arched buildings. The largest of the eight bubbles up -into a basin 40 feet in circumference, and five deep, which is inclosed -by dilapidated walls. The boiling water deposits on the stones a yellow -sulphurous crust, regarded by the natives a sovereign remedy in certain -disorders to which their camels are subject. - -Three miles to the south from the banks of the Jarmuk is the -celebrated city of Gadara. With an authentic history not older than the -third century B.C., it was captured in the year 218 B.C. by Antiochus -the Great. Regaining possession of it twenty years later, the Jews -held it till destroyed during their civil wars. To gratify one of his -freedmen, who was a Gadarene, it was rebuilt by order of Pompey, and -during the proconsulate of Gabinius it was the capital of one of the -five districts into which he had divided Judea. Considered one of the -most important cities east of the Jordan, it was captured by Vespasian -in the first outbreak of the war with the Jews: all of its inhabitants -were massacred, and the town itself was reduced to ashes. - - Illustration: RUINS AND TOMBS OF GADARA. - -The ruins of a city more significantly reflect its grandeur than the -records of the historian or the descriptions of the traveler. Gadara -is in ruins. Occupying a projecting spur at the northwestern extremity -of the mountains of Gilead, it is bounded on the north by the Jarmuk, -on the south by the valley of El-Arab, and on the west by the Jordan. -On the crest of the ridge, covering a space two miles in circumference, -are the remains of the fallen city. On the northern side of the -hill there is a theatre, the seats of which remain entire. Near -it originally stood one of the great gates of the city, from which -commenced a noble avenue extending through the town, and flanked -on either side by a splendid colonnade. On the western side of the -ridge there is another theatre, the walls, seats, and vaulted chambers -of which are in good condition. Between these two theatres lay the -principal part of the city, on an even piece of ground. But the -desolation of Gadara is complete. Neither dwelling, palace, nor column -remains standing, and the only work of art, besides the theatres, -which has come down to our own age well preserved, is the pavement -of the main street, which is as perfect as when laid down, and bears -distinctly the traces of the chariot wheels which once proudly rolled -along this magnificent thoroughfare. - -Whether regarded as works of art or as associated with the history of -the Gospel, the tombs of Gadara are replete with interest. Excavated -in the limestone rock on the east and northeast sides of the hill, -they consist of chambers, some of which are more than 20 feet square. -Consisting of massive stone slabs, ornamented with panels, many of the -doors remain in their places, and swing upon their hinges with ease, -notwithstanding their great weight. Along the hill-side are ancient -sarcophagi, ornamented with sculptured garlands and wreaths, gods -and genii. As in the days of our Lord, these tombs are inhabited, and -though not by maniacs, yet by Troglodytes, who at times are no less -dangerous to the traveler. When it is remembered that Gadara is nine -miles from the extreme southeastern shore of the Sea of Tiberias, its -claim of having been the scene of the Savior’s miracle in curing the -maniacs who “dwelt in the tombs” may be called in question. The miracle -is recorded by three of the evangelists. They all agree as to where -the Savior landed, viz., “to the other side;” “over unto the other -side of the sea,” “which is over against Galilee;” that, on landing, -he was immediately met by the demoniacs; and that the place was in the -_country_ or region of a certain people; but Matthew calls this people -Gergesenes, while Mark and Luke call them Gadarenes. The reconciliation, -however, is not difficult. Either Gergesa was located near the lake -shore, and under the jurisdiction of the larger city, Gadara, and -therefore could be properly described as in the “country of the -Gadarenes,” or, as is more probable, St. Matthew, being a resident of -this region, wrote the name correctly, and wrote it primarily to those -who were familiar with all the smaller places of the country, while -St. Mark and St. Luke, who were strangers here, and who wrote for the -benefit of distant Greek and Roman readers, who were only familiar -with the well-known district and city of Gadara, simply point out -the vicinity of the place where the miracle occurred. Some eminent -critics suppose that, as the name of the place given by St. Matthew -is variously pronounced Gergesa, or Gerasa, or Cehersa, the close -resemblance between Gergesa and Gadara led to the substitution of -the latter for the former in transcribing the manuscript.[566] But, -whatever may have been the cause of the discrepancy, topographical -facts are against Gadara, or any of its dependencies, as having been -the scene of the miracle. In addition to the fact that Gadara is nine -miles to the southeast from the sea, there is no mountain at this point -of the shore adapted to the conditions of the miracle. The intervening -space between these two points, even if the last-mentioned difficulty -did not exist, would present an insuperable objection. It would have -been a miracle in itself if 2000 swine had run down the mountain-side -for an hour and a half, then forded the deep Jarmuk, and, having gained -the northern bank, crossed a plain five miles wide before they reached -the nearest margin of the sea. And as the scene of the miracle could -not have been in the immediate neighborhood of Gadara, neither could -it have been north of the Jarmuk, as the “country of the Gadarenes” lay -south of that great river. - -Somewhere midway the lake we must look for the scene of this -interesting event. Not two miles to the north from the small village -of Semakh is the site of ancient Hippas, which was an important place -in the days of Josephus, and four miles farther on are the ruins of -the renowned city of Gamala. The ridge on which the city stood is not -unlike a camel’s back, from which geological formation the town derived -its name. So strongly was Gamala built, that the younger Agrippa -besieged it seven months in vain, and it only yielded to the assailants -when assaulted by a more powerful army under Vespasian. Four thousand -perished by the sword, and, rather than surrender themselves captives -to the victor, five thousand other citizens threw themselves from -the walls of their city and were dashed to pieces in the deep ravines -below. Whether this was the city of the Gergesenes it is impossible to -determine with accuracy, but the topography of the shore, from Hippas -to Wady Semakh, is in harmony with all the facts of the miracle. Here, -in the face of the bold cliffs, are many ancient tombs, out of one of -which the demoniacs rushed to meet Jesus the moment the boat touched -the shore, and on the mountain summit, “a good way off from them, an -herd of swine was feeding.” Seized with a sudden panic, the maddened -herd rushed headlong down the steep mountain side, and as there was -neither time nor space to arrest their descent on the narrow shelving -shore between the base of the cliff and the sea, they were borne by the -velocity of their own motion into the waters and perished. Thus, by a -miracle as humane as it was godlike, our Lord condemned the vocation -of the swineherds of Gergesa, and restored to reason and happiness two -unfortunate men.[567] - -Ten miles north from Gamala is the mouth of the Upper Jordan. The -path first runs along a rich plateau, separating the shell-strewn beach -from the base of the hills, and then passes over a triangular plain -of surpassing richness. Three miles beyond this rich field the Jordan -enters the Lake of Gennesaret. Southerly winds have driven up an -immense bank of sand before the mouth of the river, causing the water -to flow through a channel some distance from the eastern shore. Being -70 feet wide, the Jordan is here a lazy, turbid stream, flowing between -low alluvial banks. Droves of buffaloes and herds of cattle were -standing in the shallow water, while along the banks were flocks of -sheep and goats. - -Two miles from the mouth of the Jordan, and covering a conspicuous -hill, are the remains of Bethsaida Julias. Originally a small village -inhabited by fishermen, it was enlarged and beautified by “Philip, -tetrarch of Iturea and of the region of Trachonitis,”[568] who made -it the imperial city of his kingdom, and called it Julias in honor of -Julia, the daughter of the Emperor Augustus;[569] and here, after he -had reigned 37 years, he died and was interred with great pomp in a -magnificent mausoleum which he had previously prepared for himself. -[570] But this eastern Bethsaida is chiefly interesting to the -Christian traveler as associated with the life of our divine Lord. -Sailing from Capernaum, hither he retired with his disciples “into -a desert place apart.”[571] This “desert place” was probably one of -those uninhabited mountains which overhang the lake on the south, and -which, owing to the scarcity of springs and the nearer approach to -the Bedouin tribes, were not dotted with towns as were the opposite -hills, and which naturally became a refuge from the active life of the -western shores. Attracted by his miracles and charmed by his presence, -“when the people heard thereof they followed him on foot out of the -cities,”[572] and sweeping round the head of the lake, while he himself -sailed across it, they reached the place where he had landed. Having -“healed their sick” and taught them lessons of divine wisdom, the -compassionate Savior finished the labors of the day by feeding that -multitude of over 5000 souls with five loaves and two fishes.[573] The -scene of this extraordinary miracle is the noble plain at the mouth of -the Jordan, which during most of the year is now, as then, covered with -“green grass.”[574] Dismissing the multitude with his blessing, and -“constraining his disciples to get into a ship” and return to Capernaum, -“he went up into a mountain apart to pray.” The imagination dwells -with delight upon this parting scene――the thousands of people scattered -along the beach absorbed in deepest thought, and moving homeward with -lingering step, turning ever and anon to gain another glance at the -blessed Savior; the ship upon the sea, containing the twelve disciples, -returning to Gennesaret; while, slowly moving up the mountain side, the -Master is retiring into solitude for meditation and prayer. - -The multitude had reached their homes and were wrapped in slumber; the -Savior had finished his devotions and had descended to the shore, but -the disciples were in the “midst of the sea, tossed with waves, for the -wind was contrary.” “In the fourth watch of the night,” leaving this -beautiful plain, “Jesus went unto them, walking on the sea.” Calming -their fears by that sublime salutation, “Be of good cheer; it is I, -be not afraid,” he allowed the impulsive Peter to “walk on the water,” -which no less evinced the weakness of the apostle’s faith than it -displayed the compassion and power of his Lord.[575] - -Having described a part of the western and the whole of the eastern -shore of the Sea of Galilee, it only remains to follow the shore -northward from Tiberias to Capernaum, and thence eastward to Chorazin. -It was seven A.M. when we left the ancient capital of Antipas to visit -the cities upbraided by our Lord. The morning sun had risen upon the -Hills of Galilee in cloudless beauty, the surface of the lake was -rippled by a soft breeze from the south, and far to the north rose the -sublime form of Hermon, its snowy summits reflecting the early light. -Two paths were before us, one mounting the uplands on the left, the -other following the coast. Choosing the latter, our course was to the -northwest. The beach gently declined toward the clear blue waters, and -was strewn with shells, and with white and black pebbles of basalt and -limestone. In half an hour we passed the wild ravine of Arbela, opening -into the interior, and flanked by bold, precipitous cliffs. Travelers -were approaching from the north, mounted on fine Arabian horses, and -seated on chair-back saddles. As we advanced the banks became steep and -rocky, and the mountains above us rose in jutting peaks. In less than -an hour we came to Magdala, the birthplace of Mary Magdalene. Standing -on the shore, it bears the modern name of Mejdel. Eighteen centuries -ago it was a large and thriving town, but at present it contains only -20 huts, on the flat roofs of which children had built booths of reeds. -Around the hovels are old foundations and heaps of rubbish, and near -a half-ruined tower stands a solitary palm. Attracted by our presence, -the women rushed from their wretched homes and gazed at us wildly, and, -judging from their frightful appearance, they might be dispossessed -of as many demons as was their ancient sister. At Mejdel begins the -celebrated Plain of Gennesaret. Formed by the mountains suddenly -receding inland, it is an open and level plain two and a half miles -wide and five long. Having the form of a crescent, it is encompassed on -the west by rugged mountains, and on the east it is washed by the sea. -Equaling in fertility the Plains of Jericho, it is well watered, and -its soil is in part a rich black mould. No less than four streams flow -through it to the lake, and, wherever cultivated, it yields abundantly. -Portions of its shore-line consist of a thick jungle of oleander, in -whose branches birds of variant forms and of brilliant colors carol -the melody of their song. In his description of this plain Josephus is -as correct as he is eloquent. Referring to the various kinds of trees -which grew thereon, “he calls the place the ambition of nature, where -it forces those plants that are naturally enemies to one another to -agree together.”[576] Were it cultivated with intelligence and taste, -it would be the Paradise of Northern Palestine, producing the choicest -fruits luxuriantly, and possessing an eternal spring. Even now, -notwithstanding its neglected state, it is dotted with magnificent -corn-fields and with groves of dwarf palms; and while from our feet -quails sprang up at almost every step, the voice of the turtle-dove was -heard on every side. In the days of our Lord it was the most densely -populated part of the Holy Land, and through its beautiful gardens -he was wont to pass, and in its thriving towns to teach his wondrous -truths. Somewhere on its whitened beach he and his disciples landed -after he had walked upon the water;[577] and from that beach he stepped -into one of the “two boats” standing on its gradual slope, and, praying -Peter “that he would thrust out a little from the land, he sat down -and taught the people out of the ship.”[578] Taking advantage of the -promiscuous audience which hung with rapt attention upon his words, he -here delivered the remarkable parables of the “Sower and the Seed,” of -the “Wheat and Tares,” of the “Mustard-seed,” and of the “Leaven which -a woman took and hid in three measures of meal.”[579] It is highly -probable that the first three of these parables were suggested to his -mind by the fields of vegetation which dotted this plain. As in his day, -so now, the wheat and tares grow together, and all the facts of the -parable are illustrated to the modern traveler. Tares abound throughout -the country, and in many respects they resemble the American _cheat_. -The stalk stands perfectly erect, and the small grains are arranged -compactly one above the other. Having a bitter taste, they produce -dizziness when eaten, whether by man or beast, and are regarded as -a strong soporific poison. If the Savior designed to represent the -existence of the _good_ and _bad_ in his Church, no illustration -could have been selected more appropriate and impressive. The “wheat -and tares” derive nourishment from the same soil; they are so much -alike before the grain is _headed out_ that it is quite impossible -to distinguish the stalk of the one from that of the other, even to -those accustomed to weed their fields; and so intertwined are the roots -of both, “that they must grow together until the harvest” before the -wheat can be gathered into the garner and the tares collected to be -burnt. And here, no doubt, was growing then, as it grows now, the -mustard-plant, which formed the basis of a second parable. Attaining -the height of ten feet, its trunk is slender, the leaves are broad, and -the blossoms yellow. Though this _wild_ and perennial shrub may aid our -conceptions of the tree which our Lord describes, yet it is probable -that the variety to which he alludes was _cultivated_, and was the -_“least of all seeds” sown by the husbandman, and when grown was “the -greatest among herbs” in all his garden_. - - Illustration: PLAIN OF GENNESARET AND HOME OF MARY MAGDALENE. - -On the northern horn of this crescent plain is the site of the renowned -city of Capernaum. Plucking an anemone in memory of the devoted Mary, -we passed up the coast, and found the distance to be scarcely four -miles. In attempting to ford one of the mountain streams which pour -their turbid waters into the lake, our horses sank into the soft clay -bottom, leaving us no alternative but to dismount and wade ashore. -Accustomed to such incidents in Oriental traveling, we remounted, and, -hastening over the plain, reached Capernaum at ten A.M. - -Though its early history is involved in much obscurity, and though -it is not mentioned in the Old Testament, it was probably built by -the Jews after their return from Babylon. At the commencement of the -Christian era it was a large and prosperous town, but it is indebted to -the presence and works of Jesus for its present renown. As the history -of its origin is obscure, so the time of its destruction is unknown. -But whether the evidence of the identity of the site is drawn from the -incidental allusions of the evangelists,[580] or from the history of -Josephus,[581] or from the writings of the fathers, or from eminent -travelers down to the 17th century,[582] or from the topography of the -spot, the argument is no less clear than satisfactory. Judging from -the heaps of ruins covering portions of the plain, the city stood near -the base of a bold bluff, which rises in the form of a truncated cone -300 feet high, and which dips its eastern end into the sea, while its -western extremity is bounded by a green meadow stretching along the -shore. At the foot of the cliff is the large “Fountain of the Fig,” so -called from a noble fig-tree that shades the cave from which the stream -issues. The water is clear, cool, and sweet, and flows over a broad -pebbled bed into the lake. Near the fountain are the remains of a tower, -to which is attached a portion of an arched gateway, and south of it -is a low mound of shapeless ruins, overgrown with thorns and thistles. -Nearly 1000 feet to the northwest from ’Ain et-Tîn is the old Khan -Minyeh, lying under the western brow of the hill, which, standing on -the great caravan route between Egypt and Damascus, is designed for the -accommodation of pilgrims. - -Ascending the bold cliff behind the city, we found the sides terraced, -and the flattened summit covered with wheat and barley, ripe for the -harvest. From this lofty position we obtained a delightful view. At our -feet lay the lake, smooth and bright, like polished silver, and beyond -the broad valley of the Jordan opened before us. On the east the eye -glanced over the Plains of Bashan and the Mountains of Gilead; on the -north, Safed rose in solitary grandeur; while on the west were the -Land of Gennesaret, and, over lower hills, the “Mount of Beatitudes.” -Charmed with the view and overwhelmed with the recollections of the -past, I sat down and read the eventful history of Capernaum. Rivaling -Jerusalem in the number and sacredness of its hallowed associations, -it is to the north what the former is to the south. Not excepting -Olivet, it stands pre-eminent in evangelical history as the scene of -our Lord’s most instructive discourses and most astonishing miracles. -Driven from Nazareth by his ungrateful townsmen, “he came and dwelt -in Capernaum,”[583] which from that time forward became “his own -city.”[584] Returning hither from journeys to other parts, here he was -received with affection and revered as divine. Here, in the synagogue, -on the Sabbath day, having astonished the people by the authority with -which he had enforced his doctrines, he healed the demoniac.[585] -Passing from the synagogue, “he entered the house of Simon and -Andrew,” and finding the mother of Peter’s wife “sick of a fever,” -he immediately restored her to health,[585] and that night the people -thronged the door of the dwelling, “and he healed many that were -sick of divers diseases.”[585] Returning from the “country of the -Gergesenes,” he cured the paralytic;[586] and passing by the receipt -of custom, he called Matthew to the apostleship.[586] Descending from -the “Mount of Beatitudes,” he here restored the servant of the devout -centurion.[587] Yielding to the paternal entreaties of Jairus, he -entered the ruler’s house, and, taking the dead damsel by the hand, -uttered those life-giving words, “Talitha-cumi,” and “she arose and -walked.” It was while going on this errand of mercy that, as he passed -through the thronged streets of Capernaum, a daughter of Israel “came -in the press behind and touched his garment,” and was made whole.[588] -Coming from the visions and glory of Tabor, he was here met by those -who “received tribute-money,” and sent forth Peter, who miraculously -obtained from the mouth of a fish a coin bearing the image and -superscription of Cæsar.[589] It was here, in a house no longer -standing, that, after delivering from the deck of a fish-boat the -memorable parables of the “Sower,” the “Tares,” the “Mustard-seed,” -and the “Leaven,” he gave forth the parables of the “Hidden Treasure,” -the “Merchant seeking goodly Pearls,” and of the “Net cast into the -Sea.”[590] - -Here, in the home of St. Matthew, and around his well-spread board, our -Lord discoursed on “fasting.”[591] At a subsequent period he reproved -the Scribes and Pharisees for their “formality;”[592] and on the -morning after he had calmed the storm he taught the people the nature -of “faith;”[593] and here, either in the house of Simon or Levi, in -the privacies of social life, and surrounded only by his disciples, he -chided their ambition, rebuked their sectarianism, and unfolded to them -the beauty and power of humility, forbearance, and brotherly love.[594] - -Who can wonder at the judgments pronounced upon a city so highly -favored, whose citizens refused to be enlightened by such words of -wisdom, and convinced by such acts of mercy? Rejecting him, he in turn -has rejected them. The “woe” has fallen heavily upon the ungrateful -city, and time has proven the fulfillment of prophecy. “And thou, -Capernaum, which art exalted to heaven, shalt be brought down to hell; -for if the mighty works which have been done in thee had been done in -Sodom, it would have remained until this day. But I say unto thee, it -shall be more tolerable for the land of Sodom in the day of judgment -than for thee.”[595] Whether this exaltation denoted the lofty site of -the city, or its pride and prosperity, the abasement is equally true. -The desolation is universal; the ruin is complete. There is a dispute -among the learned whether the town stood upon the high hill above the -fountain, or on the plain below. In all probability the hill served -as the acropolis, commanding the entire plain, on the northeast end -of which the larger portion of the city was built. As there is no -path along the northern shore, we wound up the sides of a precipitous -promontory dipping into the sea, and found a path excavated in the -rock 20 feet above the water-line, and measuring three feet deep and -as many wide. Descending to the shore of a beautiful bay, and riding -northeastward, in 20 minutes from Capernaum we came to Bethsaida, the -home of Peter and his brethren. Bearing the Arabic name of Et-Tâbighah, -this city of the holy apostles stands in a charming little nook in the -mountain side. The hills rise around it in graceful gradations, and -on the west is a small but lonely bay, encircled by a beach of fine -sand, and just such a place as fishermen love to ground their boats and -spread their nets upon. Unoccupied except by a few _millers_, the chief -attraction of the place is its pools, fountains, and aqueducts. No city -of its size in Palestine has so many and valuable water facilities as -Bethsaida. The larger fountains burst out from the base of the mountain -300 yards to the north, and around the principal one is a large -octagonal reservoir, with two circular holes designed as drains. A -flight of steps in the southwest corner leads down to the water, which -is warm and sulphurous, and about eight feet deep. From the bottom of -the reservoir there were canes growing to the height of 20 feet. Nearer -the shore is a circular well, called ’Ain Eyûb, or “Job’s Fountain.” -This reservoir, together with several mills, were constructed by Dhâher -el-Omer, and now belong to the government, by whom they are farmed out -to villagers from the neighboring towns. - -Originally called the “House of Fish,” as significant of the -vocation of its ancient inhabitants, Bethsaida will ever live in the -recollection of the pious as the birthplace of five apostles, who have -stamped the world with their influence, and affected the opinions and -destiny of mankind in all countries. Here Peter, and Andrew, and James, -and John, and Philip spent their childhood, and here they engaged in -the humble but honest calling of fishermen. It was probably on the -shore of the small bay previously described that Jesus, walking by the -Sea of Galilee, saw two brethren, Simon called Peter, and Andrew his -brother, casting a net into the sea, and said unto them, “Follow me, -and I will make you fishers of men. And going on from thence, he saw -other two brethren, James the son of Zebedee, and John his brother, -and he called them, and they followed him.”[596] And here, no doubt, is -the scene of that miraculous draught of fishes, which astonished the -disciples, and convinced them of the divine character of our Lord.[597] -But this Bethsaida must not be confounded with the one east of the -Jordan, and which has already been noticed as having been enlarged and -beautified by Philip the tetrarch. The latter being in Gaulonitis and -not in Galilee, it could not have been the native city of the apostles, -who were _Galileans_; and though it may appear unusual to find two -cities of the same name in such close proximity, yet the singularity -disappears when it is remembered that they belonged to separate -provinces, and that Bethsaida Julias is not on the lake shore, but on -the eastern bank of the Jordan, two miles from the mouth of the river. -This distinction sheds much light upon a somewhat obscure passage by St. -Mark. After our Lord had learned of the execution of John the Baptist, -he left Capernaum, and, with his disciples, “departed into a desert -place by ships privately.”[598] St. John, with greater exactitude, -says that “Jesus went over the Sea of Galilee.”[599] The “desert place” -is on the northeastern shore of the lake, where he fed the 5000, and -is “over the sea.” Having dismissed the multitude, “he constrained his -disciples to get into a ship, and to go to the other side before unto -Bethsaida,” which is on “the other side;” and as it is only a mile from -Capernaum, agrees with St. John, who records that “they went over the -sea toward Capernaum.”[600] They embarked for Bethsaida, but the “wind -was contrary,” and they were driven from their course to the southward. -“About the fourth watch of the night” Jesus came “walking on the sea,” -and, entering the ship, “the wind ceased.” With a minuteness that -leaves us without a doubt, St. Matthew and St. Mark say, “They came -into the land of Gennesaret;”[601] and St. John designates which -portion of Gennesaret they came to in saying that “when the people -saw that Jesus was on the other side, they took shipping and came -to Capernaum seeking for Jesus, and that they found him there.”[602] -Had the disciples sailed for Bethsaida Julias, it would have been -impossible for them to have sailed “_over the sea toward Capernaum_,” -as the former is not “over the sea,” and is not in the same direction -with the latter, Capernaum being southwest and Julias northeast. Nor -is the difficulty relieved by supposing that Tell Hum is the true site -of Capernaum, as the argument drawn from the direction of the place -remains in full force. - -Having satisfied his mind touching the identity of a place, the -traveler lingers about the spot with no ordinary delight. Such were -the pleasing emotions I experienced as I stood amid the ruins of the -home of Peter, James, and John, and watched the crystal waters flowing -into the sea through banks lined with oleanders in full bloom. And the -impression was overwhelming as the great fact rose up before my mind -that in this retired quarter of the globe――in this Galilean village of -humble pretensions, five inspired apostles were born, who from their -fish-boats went forth commissioned to evangelize the world, and to -be the biographers of the Son of God. It is an ancient suggestion, -that the scenery of childhood gives tone to the character of a man -and direction to his coming years. Few men whose acts fill so large -a portion of the world’s history have evinced traits of character so -opposite, and transitions in their emotional natures so remarkable as -the “fishermen of Bethsaida.” Pure as they were simple, benevolent as -they were sincere, they loved and hated, hoped and despaired; they were -bold and fearful, joyful and sorrowful, firm and inconstant, as the -surrounding circumstances were favorable to the development of their -better natures, or to disclose the weaknesses of our common humanity. -Looking out upon the scene before me, I fancied that their finer -feelings and gentler traits were evoked by the deep blue skies, the -transparent atmosphere, the mellow dawn, the golden sunset, the placid -lake, the flowing fountains, the blooming flowers and shell-strewn -shores, while the rugged mountains and boisterous storms at sea aroused -their fiery and impetuous spirits. When composed they resembled their -embowered lake, whose placid waters mirror the overhanging foliage -along its banks; but when agitated, they were like their native sea -during a storm, when the deep was troubled, when thunder answered -thunder, and the roar of the waters responded to the howl of the winds. - -Three miles to the northeast are the remains of the city of Chorazin. -In the intervening space the hills approach the shore, exposing at -intervals a rough bank, lined with a tangled thicket of a thorny shrub. -In the spring-time the black tents of the predatory farmers dot the -table-land, only one of which now remained, and around it a solitary -shepherd was keeping his flock. It was while riding over this broad -plateau that we were startled by one of those squalls peculiar to this -inland sea. The air had been quiet, the lake calm, and the heavens were -cloudless, but within five minutes the wind blew a gale, the sea became -troubled, the waves rolled high and dashed wildly on the shore. It was -a repetition of that scene when the disciples were sailing over the sea; -when “Jesus was in the hinder part of the ship, asleep on a pillow;” -when “there arose a great storm of wind, and the waves beat into the -ship, so that it was now full;” and when, in the moment of danger, they -awoke the Divine Sleeper, “who arose and rebuked the wind, and said -unto the sea, Peace, be still.”[603] The natural causes operating and -producing such effects in that distant age are still in force. The sea -is 600 feet lower than the ocean; the mountains on the east and north -rise to a great height, and their sides are furrowed with deep and wild -ravines; and the temperature of this volcanic basin differing from that -on the mountains above, these profound gorges serve as vast conductors, -through which, at certain periods, the cold winds from above rush -suddenly down, causing a tempest in an unexpected moment. - -The ruins of Chorazin lie upon the shore, covering a level tract half -a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide. Consisting chiefly of the -foundations and prostrate walls of dwellings, they are overgrown with -a thicket of thistles eight feet high, and so dense that it is almost -impossible to penetrate and examine the remains. The walls of a square -tower 10 feet high are standing, and are composed of fragments of -columns, capitals, and friezes, mingled with hewn stone of different -dimensions. To the east of the tower we entered a structure, the -object of which can not now be determined. Portions of the northern -and western walls remain, the former measuring 105 feet long, and the -latter about 80. Within this inclosure are strewn, in utter confusion, -limestone columns, Corinthian capitals, sculptured entablatures, -ornamental friezes, double columns, and immense blocks of stone nine -feet long and five wide, with panels sculptured in their sides. This -may have been a magnificent Jewish synagogue, a substitute in part -for the noble Temple of Jerusalem. In the days of our Savior and five -centuries after, Chorazin was a populous and wealthy city. Driven -from their ancient capital, the Jews settled on the shores of this -lake. Their Sanhedrim found a resting-place at Tiberias, and Magdala, -Capernaum, Bethsaida, and Chorazin became their chief towns. In the -wealth of her citizens, the grandeur of her architecture, and the -influence of her religious institutions, the latter appears to have -been as influential as magnificent. But the “woe” has fallen on -Chorazin. What the “mighty works which were done” in her were we are -not informed, but evidently they were of such a character as to give -light to her people, in the rejection of which was involved her ruin. -Rejecting that light, she has fallen with her sister towns; and without -a single habitation, the most beautiful site for a city on all these -shores is now a thorn-bed, where adders crawl and jackals hide. “Woe -unto thee, Chorazin! woe unto thee, Bethsaida! for if the mighty works -which were done in thee had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they would -have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes.” And if the present -small but thriving towns of Tyre and Sidon be compared to this “howling -wilderness,” this “perfection of desolation,” the contrast can not fail -to suggest to every impartial mind the marvelous and strangely exact -fulfillment of our Lord’s solemn predictions.[604] Indeed, the Lake -of Gennesaret is a beautiful desolation. Her villas are in ruins, -her fisheries have failed, her ship-yards are silent, her commerce is -destroyed, her manufactories are abandoned, and her waters, which were -the rich possession of Naphthali, are without a keel to divide them, or -a sail to fly before their mountain gusts. - -Turning inland and following a path along the base of the mountain, -an hour’s ride brought us to the mouth of the Jordan. Forty miles to -the northeast, up the broad ravine through which the most illustrious -of earthly rivers flows, appeared Mount Hermon, with his icy crown -brilliant in the midday sun. For nine miles the path follows the -river bank to ’Jisr Benât Yakûb, the “Bridge of Jacob’s Daughters.” -It is the only bridge which at present spans the Jordan, and its three -arches, with its well-paved roadway, are in good condition. Though -traditionally marking the site where Jacob, staff in hand, crossed the -stream, yet it is not easy to determine why the word “daughters” should -be added. The Jordan is here a rapid stream, 25 yards wide and 10 feet -deep, flowing between alluvial banks fringed with thickets of reeds -and rank grass. From the bridge on the eastern bank of the river, a -beautiful level tract of land extends northward for three miles to the -foot of Lake Hûleh. Four and a half miles in length and three and a -half in breadth, this charming lake is the first gathering together -of the waters of the Upper Jordan as they descend from their perennial -springs. Known in the Bible as the “Waters of Merom,” and called by -Josephus Samochonitis,[605] it was on the shore of this lake that -Joshua “smote Jabin, king of Hazor.”[606] Passing the probable site -of Hazor, two miles to the west from the fountain of Mellâhah, and -crossing the deep glen through which the Hasbâny flows to the Jordan, -the path runs over undulating ground to Tell el-Kâdy, “The Hill of the -Judge,” or the Dan of Scripture, situated 12 miles from the northern -end of Lake Hûleh. Rising from the midst of a level plain, the hill -on which the ancient city stood is 80 feet high and three quarters of -a mile in circumference. It is covered with trees and bushes, which -conceal the ruins of the old town. Placed by Josephus at the fountain -of the Jordan, and located by Eusebius a quarter of a mile from Paneas, -on the way to Tyre, there can be no question as to the identity of the -place. Its history is as sanguinary as it is romantic. Captured by the -princes of Mesopotamia, hither Lot was brought after the pillage of -Sodom; and, inspired by a courage that was never blanched with fear, -here Abraham overtook the captors of his nephew, and dividing his 318 -“trained servants born in his own house,” he fell upon the foe by night, -“and smote them and pursued them unto Hobah, which is on the left -hand of Damascus; and he brought back all his goods, and also brought -again his brother Lot,[607] and his goods, and the women also, and the -people.”[608] Called in the days of the Judges Laish, its capture by -the Danites forms one of the most romantic stories in the Old Testament. -Unable to expel the more powerful Philistines who occupied a large part -of their tribeship, 600 armed men from the cities of Zorah and Eshtool -went up and smote the rich and careless Sidonians who inhabited the -town, and, taking possession of the city, they called it “Dan, after -their father.” On their way northward they had stopped at Mount Ephraim, -where they pillaged the house of Micah of the holy symbols of his -religion, and compelled a young Levite to accompany them, “to be to -them a father and a priest.”[609] Though a trifling conquest when -compared to the grand achievements of Joshua and David, the capture -of Laish and its occupation by the Danites was the fulfillment of -an ancient prophecy: “Dan is a lion’s whelp; he shall leap from -Bashan;”[610] and from that time the city was regarded as the northern -border of the Promised Land, and gave rise to that household expression, -“From Dan to Beersheba.”[611] - -But the city of Dan is no less celebrated for its waters than for -its interesting history. At the western base of the hill there is the -largest fountain in Syria, and among the largest in the world. Bursting -forth from the rocks, the water first forms a small lake, from which it -rushes southward a rapid river, called the Leddân. Four miles below it -forms a junction with a large stream from Baniâs, and a mile beyond the -confluence it is joined by the River Hasbâny, which gives its name to -the stream down to the Lake Hûleh. Thus gradually the Jordan is formed. - -Winding through oaken groves, and lined with myrtle and oleanders, -the road diverges to the northeast, and four miles from Dan is Cæsarea -Philippi. Occupying a broad terrace in the mountain side, it is bounded -by two sublime ravines, one on the north and the other on the south, -between which, and in the rear of the site, rise the castellated -heights of Subeibeh 1000 feet high. The terrace is adorned with groves -of oaks and olives, and carpeted with the richest verdure. A site so -remarkable for its Alpine scenery did not fail to attract the earlier -Phœnicians, and, at a later period, the Greeks and Romans. Supposed -to be the “Baal Gad” of Scripture, it was early consecrated by the -Canaanites to the idolatrous worship of one of their Baals.[612] Chosen -by the Greeks to be the shrine of Pan, it retains the name of Bâniâs, -the Arabic form of Paneas. Coming into the possession of “Philip, -tetrarch of Iturea and Trachonitis,” it was rebuilt and enlarged by -the son of Herod the Great, who named it Cæsarea, in honor of Tiberius -Cæsar; and to distinguish it from Cæsarea on the Mediterranean coast, -and to perpetuate his own name, he called it Cæsarea Philippi. Among -its mighty ruins is a citadel of quadrangular form covering four acres, -and surrounded by a massive wall with heavy towers at the angles and -sides. Guarded on the east by a deep moat, it is washed on the north -and west by a large stream, and on the south it is protected by a -profound chasm, which is spanned by a bridge, from which a noble -gateway opens into the citadel. Within this inclosure, and surrounded -by granite columns and limestone shafts, are the 40 dwellings of the -modern town. To the north of the ruins, and at the base of a cliff of -ruddy limestone 100 feet high, is a cave of vast dimensions, and as -dark as vast. Within are the fragments of noble edifices, and around -its mouth are heaps of broken rocks and portions of ancient buildings. -In harmony with Grecian mythology, this deep cavern was selected -as the temple of the sylvan Pan, and on the face of the cliff a -Greek inscription records the sacred history of the cave. The Romans -succeeding the Greeks, Herod the Great erected a splendid temple of -white marble to Augustus near the place called _Panium_.[613] Destroyed -by some unknown power, the ruins of this temple are entombed in -the cave, excepting a fragment clinging to the rocks above, and now -dedicated to a Moslem saint. Near this spot is the great fountain of -Bâniâs, which is one of the principal sources of the Jordan. Bursting -forth from beneath heaps of rubbish, the water flows in a rapid, -foaming torrent over a rocky bed, and, plunging over a precipice, -falls into a dark ravine, through which it runs southward and joins -the Hasbâny. - -As the northern limit of our Savior’s wanderings, Cæsarea Philippi -was the scene of one of the most interesting incidents in our Lord’s -life. Having restored a blind man at Bethsaida Julias, he and his -disciples passed up this same route, and, coming into the towns of -Cæsarea Philippi, he asked his disciples, “Whom do men say that I -am?” Receiving their reply, he tested their faith by the more personal -question, “But whom say ye that I am?” Ever ready with an answer, -and acting as the mouth-piece of his brethren, St. Peter uttered that -extraordinary confession, “Thou art the Christ, the son of the living -God.” Satisfied with an answer no less satisfactory than true, he -returned southward, and “after six days” he was transfigured on the -summit of Tabor, commanding a view of his native hills.[614] - - Illustration: UPPER JORDAN. - -Passing on the east the castle of Subeibeh, the road to Hasbeiya is -through a region as wild as it is picturesque. Eighteen miles from -Cæsarea Philippi is the fountain of Hasbâny, the principal source of -the Upper Jordan. At the foot of a volcanic bluff the waters burst -forth, and by means of a strong and permanent dam are collected into -a pond, from which they are turned into a wide mill-race. Escaping -therefrom, they commence their long descent, and, augmented by vast -tributaries, they flow on through two successive lakes, to be received -into a third, where they are evaporated by the intense heat of the -Vale of Siddim. Thus formed, the River Jordan is at once remarkable -for its length and descent. Though, as the crow flies, it is not more -than 120 miles long from its highest source at Hasbeiya to the point -where it enters into the Dead Sea, yet, owing to its tortuous channel, -it can not be less than 300 miles in length; and it is an equally -extraordinary fact that in its descent from Lake Huleh to its southern -termination, which in a straight line is but 80 miles, it has a fall of -more than 1300 feet. - -The village of Hasbeiya is situated on both sides of a deep glen, which -descends from a side ridge of Hermon westward into Wady et-Teim. The -head of the ravine being but a little east of the town, the latter is -inclosed on three sides by high hills, which are regularly terraced -and planted with vineyards, olive-groves, and fig-orchards. Of its 5000 -inhabitants, 4000 are Christians, and the remainder Druzes. Aside from -its great fountain, the only object of interest is a group of Druze -chapels, the most celebrated of all the sanctuaries belonging to that -sect. Crowning some of the lofty summits, they are strongly built, and -the only architectural peculiarity they possess is the smallness of -the windows. Constituting a secret society, the Druzes select the most -solitary places for their temples, to which no stranger may intrude. - -But the commanding feature in the natural scenery of this region is -Mount Hermon. From Hasbeiya it requires six hours of hard climbing to -reach its lofty summit. The path first ascends a high wooded ridge; -then, crossing a deep ravine, it winds upward over loose stones and -amid tufts of coarse grass. A part of the anti-Lebanon range, Hermon -is a vast limestone mountain, consisting of three principal summits. -The northern one is the highest, and has the appearance of an obtuse -truncated cone; the ascent is but 900 feet south from the parent range, -and directly beneath its summit, some 5000 feet, in a basin-like glen, -are the sources of the River Pharpar, near a small village called ’Arny. -The third peak is a quarter of a mile to the west from the latter, and -is the lowest of the three. - -The second highest mountain in Syria, Hermon is 10,000 feet high. From -its loftiest summit the eye sweeps over a landscape of extraordinary -grandeur. The two parallel ranges of Lebanon and anti-Lebanon stretch -far away to the “entering of Hamath” in the north, with the great -valley of the Bukâ’a between them. Turning southward, the eye follows -the sacred river, now resting in the basin of Hûleh, now expanding into -the Sea of Tiberias, and beyond pursuing its infinite windings through -the Jordan valley to the shining waters of the Dead Sea. Along its -eastern banks appear in regular succession the rich pastures and “oaks -of Bashan”, the Mountains of Gilead, and those of Ammon and Moab, -and opposite, the Hills of Samaria, of Benjamin, and Judah. Turning -westward, there is Carmel and Tabor, and the Hills of Galilee; and -on the white coast-line, ’Akka, Tyre, and Sidon; and far out into the -“great sea,” its waters mingling with the western horizon, is the Isle -of Cyprus――the Chittim of the Phœnicians, and the scene of the ministry -of Paul and Barnabas. Turning eastward, there is the Hauran, with its -unvisited cities; and beyond, the Arabian Desert, from whose burning -sands the sun comes forth, to descend at night into the cooling waters -of the Mediterranean. - -The southern peak of Hermon is crowned with curious ruins. Around the -rocky crest is a circular wall, some of the large stones of which are -beveled, while others have a plain moulding around the edge. Here are -the remains of some grand but unknown temple, one of the columns of -which stands upon the brow of a steep declivity. It is supposed that -the ancient inhabitants of the land, being worshipers of the sun, here -built their altar to that shining orb who is seen running his course in -the heavens from the desert to the sea. - -Around the base of this noble mountain vegetation is luxuriant, and -on the lower ridges radiating from it are forests of oaks, interspersed -with mountain shrubs; but the peaks are naked, and are covered with -small limestones, rendering them smooth and bleak. Perpetual winter -reigns upon their summits. The snow never disappears. All through the -springtime to early summer, they resemble white domes standing out -against the purple skies. In midsummer and in autumn the intense heat -melts the snow from the tops of the ridges, but, owing to its greater -depth, does not affect that portion which fills the ravines. And -thus Hermon appears, alternately streaked with light and dark lines, -till hoary winter comes again to weave his mantle of white, and cover -therewith those majestic summits, the symbols of a purer world. - -In every age it has had a name significant of some physical -peculiarities. Its “lofty conical peak” suggested the name of Hermon; -its rounded top, covered with snow and ice, and glittering in the -sunlight, appeared to the Sidonians and Amorites like a massive -“breast-plate,” and by the former it was called “Sirion,” and by the -latter “Shemr.”[615] Towering above its fellows, it is named by Moses -“Sion――the Elevated;”[616] and, impressed with its majesty, the Arabs -call it “Jebel esh Sheikh――the Chief Mountain.” - -In the poetry and geography of the Bible it is the image of grandeur -and the landmark of national domain. Joshua conquered all the land -east of the Jordan, “from the River Arnon unto Mount Hermon.”[617] -Visible from almost every tribe’s possession, Hermon was not only -the terminating point of view northward, but to the inspired writer, -whether prophet or poet, it was “the image of unearthly grandeur, which -nothing else but perpetual snow can give, especially as seen in the -summer, when the firmament around it seems to be on fire.”[618] In -his exaltation of the Creator the Psalmist exclaims, “The north and -the south, thou hast created them; Tabor and Hermon shall rejoice in -thy name.”[619] The summit snows, condensing the vapors which, during -summer, float around it in the higher regions of the atmosphere, -produce abundant dew, which is a source of unfailing moisture to the -adjacent country, while other portions of the land remained dry and -parched. As the source of perpetual verdure and refreshing coolness, -it was the image to the Hebrew poet of the enduring blessings of unity -among brethren to the whole community. “As the dew of Hermon, and as -the dew that descended upon the mountains of Zion;[620] for there the -Lord commanded his blessing, even life for evermore.”[621] - -Returning to Magdala _en route_ for Nazareth, we entered “The Valley of -the Pigeons,” one of the wildest glens in Northern Palestine. Bearing -the Arabic name of Wady el-Hamân, it leads up from the Plain of -Gennesaret to the Mount of Beatitudes. Its mouth is a mile to the west -from the home of Mary of Magdala. At its entrance the ravine is broad, -but contracts to a narrow mountain defile. The cliffs on either side -are naked and broken, and rise to the height of a thousand feet. The -one on the north is not as high as it is massive; the one on the south -is bolder and more precipitous. Far up the gorge, and directly in front -of the path, is a perpendicular bluff, terminating in a triangular -point, and not unlike in appearance a venerable castle. Near its -ancient base is a small but pretty spring, sending forth a soft murmur -on the quiet air of Hamân. In the face of the rocks are immense natural -and artificial caverns, the resort of pigeons, from which the vale -takes its name. During the reign of Herod the Great these caves were -filled with robbers, who were the scourges of the whole surrounding -country. After the battle of Sepphoris Herod besieged this strong-hold. -Failing in his attempt to scale the cliffs, he let boxes filled with -soldiers down the face of the precipice, and landed them at the -entrance of the caverns. Attacking the bandits with fire and sword, -he succeeded in dislodging them, killing some, and dragging others out -with long hooks, and then dashing them down on the rocks below.[622] - - Illustration: “VALLEY OF THE PIGEONS.” - -At the western end of this wild glen is the green plateau of Hattîn. Of -irregular form, it is a mile in its greatest breadth. Every where well -cultivated, it is bounded on the east, north, and south by low hills, -and on the west by the Mount of Beatitudes. Ascending the “Mount,” I -found it to consist of two low summits, which suggested its present -name, Kurûn Hattîn, “The Horns of Hattîn,” from a fancied resemblance -to the two horns of a camel’s saddle. Being a quarter of a mile long, -the adjacent ground rises gradually to its base, and the hill forms a -crest less than 100 feet high. Relying upon an earlier tradition, the -Crusaders revered Kurûn Hattîn as one of the sacred mountains, and, so -far as they furnish any proof on the subject, the evangelists confirm -the earlier and later traditions. Their simple story is that “Jesus -went about all Galilee, preaching the gospel of the kingdom, and -healing all manner of sickness and all manner of disease among the -people. And there followed him great multitudes of people from Galilee, -and from Decapolis, and from Jerusalem, and from Judea, and from beyond -Jordan. And seeing the multitudes, he went up into a mountain; and when -he was set, his disciples came unto him; and he opened his mouth and -taught them.”[623] The region of country, the distance from the sea, -the magnificence of the surrounding scenery, the city of Safed “set -upon a hill,” the sloping sides of the mountain, and the lovely Plain -of Hattîn at its base, combine to render this a befitting place for the -delivery of our Lord’s “Sermon on the Mount.” Around it are the Hills -of Galilee, to the east is seen the sea, and beyond it are Bashan and -Bozrah; while to the north, surmounting one of the highest and grandest -of the Galilean mountains, is the old Jewish city of Safed, to which, -no doubt, the Savior pointed when he compared his Church on earth to -“a city that is set upon a hill, that can not be hid.” Only those who -have seen Safed can appreciate the beauty and appropriateness of our -Lord’s allusion. From its moss-grown castle is not only obtained a -view of the most glorious panorama in Palestine, stretching from the -“Mountains of Samaria” to the Arabian Desert, but the allusion amounts -to almost absolute truth that the “city can not be hid.” Through all my -journeyings for a week it followed me, and the “city set upon a hill” -was ever suggesting the sublime lessons of the “Beatitudes.” Whether on -the shores of Tiberias, or on the Plains of Hattîn, or on the Hills of -Nazareth, or by the Fountain of Seffurieh, or on the green fields of -El-Buttauf, the city of Safed was before me, rising up from earth like -a beacon-light, at once the confirmation of the Savior’s words, and the -impressive symbol of a living Church. - -But Kurûn Hattîn has a history other than that of having been the -scene of the mild and life-giving teachings of Christ. It has a record -of blood. On its heights and around its base was fought one of the -saddest and most bloody battles in mediæval times, and the one which -sealed the fate of the Crusaders in Palestine, and opened the gates of -the Holy City to the profane and tyrannical rule of the Turks. Here, on -the fifth of July, 1187, the flower of the Christian army, under Guy of -Lusignan, met the barbarous hordes of Mohammedans, led on by Saladin, -the mighty prince. - -The Christians had succeeded to the full occupation of the Holy Land -from ancient Gaza to the venerable city of Antioch. The weak-minded -Guy of Lusignan had been elevated to the throne of Jerusalem as the -successor of Baldwin V.; and as the powerful vassals of the king, -Raynald of Chatillon was Lord of Kerak, and Count Raymond was Lord of -Tiberias and Galilee. The Christians were enjoying a period of repose, -under a truce which had been concluded with Saladin, the nephew of -Nourreddin, and the new Sultan of Egypt. But Raynald of Chatillon, -proving faithless to the compact, had plundered a caravan of merchants -passing from Damascus to Arabia, and had even threatened the distant -cities of Mecca and Medina. Saladin condescended to remonstrate, and -demanded the release of the prisoners whom the Lord of Kerak held -in chains. His demand rejected, the sultan swore to dispatch the -perfidious Raynald with his own hand should he ever fall into his power. -To revenge this breach of faith, Saladin lost no time in marshaling a -mighty army. Damascus was the appointed rendezvous, and the warriors -of the Crescent assembled in thousands, not only from the Assyrian -provinces, but also from Egypt, Arabia, and Mesopotamia. - -Alarmed by such stupendous preparations, the Crusaders in turn -prepared to resist the foe and defend the sacred soil. Five miles to -the southwest from Hattîn is the large fountain of Seffurieh, which -was the gathering-place of the Christian army. As if impressed with the -finality of the struggle, the defenders of the Cross came from their -mountain castles and their most distant fortresses to conquer or to -die. From the banks of the Kadîsha and of the Orontes, and from the -shores of Tiberias, Raymond came with his faithful followers; from the -fortresses of Kerak and Shobêk, Raynald led his well-trained knights; -lesser barons advanced from Ascalon, Cæsarea, and Sidon, while the King -of Jerusalem led in person a numerous army of Templars and hired troops. -To add significance to the hour, the venerable bishops of Ptolemais -and Lydda brought the Holy Cross which St. Helena had recovered, and -elevated it amid the embattled host as the symbol of their faith and -the inspiration of their courage. - -More than a month had elapsed before the Moslems appeared. At length -Saladin, with 80,000 horse and foot, swept around the head of the -Lake of Tiberias, and took possession of the heights above the town. -Encamped upon the Plains of Hattîn, and hoping to bring on a speedy and -general engagement on his well-chosen field, the sultan sent out light -detachments to lay waste the country from Jezreel to Tabor, and thence -to Nazareth, within four miles of the enemy’s camp. Unsuccessful in -this attempt, he then seized Tiberias, and compelled the wife of Count -Raymond to retire with her children to the castle of the city. - -The intelligence of the capture of the capital of Galilee, and of -the imminent danger of the wife and children of the Count of Tripolis, -reached the camp of the Christians on the 3d of July. That night a -council of war was held to decide upon the action of the coming day. -Inspired by the misfortunes of a woman and confident of success, -the king and his barons resolved to march in close array for the -deliverance of Tiberias. Though unquestionably the most interested -party, yet, from motives which have never been explained, Count Raymond -opposed the decision of the council, and, having shown the folly of -offensive movements in the heat of midsummer, in a region destitute -of water and far from the base of their supplies, his policy was -unanimously approved of by the king and the other members of the -council. But, regarding the decision as unworthy the army of the -Cross, the Grand Master of the Templars repaired to the royal tent, and -overwhelmed the king with reproaches for having listened to the advice -of a traitor, and conjured him not to suffer such a stain of cowardice -to rest upon the Christian name. Overpersuaded, the king gave orders to -arm, and at midnight the trumpet sounded, while heralds flew throughout -the startled camp proclaiming the royal decree. - -At dawn on the 4th of July the Christian army was in motion. His scouts -had brought Saladin intelligence of the movement, and immediately he -dispatched his light troops to harass the Crusaders on their march, -while with consummate skill he posted his main army on the plain and -along the crest of Hattîn. His ardent wishes were about to be gratified, -and his long-maturing plans were on the point of consummation. Late in -the afternoon of the same day the King of Jerusalem reached the field -of El-Lubieh, two miles to the southwest from the “Horns of Hattîn,” -where a desperate battle occurred. Night closed around the belligerent -armies without decisive result. That was a dreadful night. The wisdom -of Raymond’s advice now became apparent. The heat was intense; and, -besides being harassed by the fierce Arabs, the Christians were -dying for the want of water. Too weak-minded to take advantage of the -darkness and order a midnight attack, and at least gain the shores -of the lake, the feeble Guy determined to defer the conflict till the -morrow. Whether to revenge the insult offered to his prudent counsels, -or conscious of the impossibility of success in attempting to force the -ranks of the foe, Raymond of Tripolis advised the course pursued. But -it was the fatal step. - -At length the morning came. It was the 5th day of July, 1187 A.D. -The sky was cloudless, and the sun rose amid a fiery haze――the presage -of consuming heat. It was a Syrian midsummer day, and the heavens -were on fire. Led by their mighty prince, the followers of the Prophet -were no less hopeful than brave. But, posted on a rocky plain without -water, and with their tormenting thirst increased by the smoke and -heat arising from the shrubs and trees which the enemy had set on fire, -the Christians received the first shock of battle with a despondency -preintimating the defeat that terminated that dreadful struggle. Yet -on no previous field had they displayed a truer devotion, nor evinced -a loftier courage. With varied fortunes, the battle raged from early -dawn till late in the day. Now the Holy Cross was raised in momentary -triumph, now the banner of the Crescent waved in transient victory. But -in vain did the Knights of St. John launch their burnished spears at -a foe they justly hate, and with equal courage receive in return the -arrows and javelins of the Saracens. At length, driven to the highest -summit of Hattîn, the king and a handful of Templars gathered around -the Holy Cross. Again and again they drove back the enemy, and as -often repulsed the terrible attacks of Saladin’s cavalry. Manfully the -bravest of the knights fell wounded around the symbol of their faith, -and the Bishop of Ptolemais, who bore the Cross, was pierced with an -arrow, and, falling bleeding to the ground, for a moment the sacred -ensign disappeared, but, springing forward, the Bishop of Lydda grasped -the Cross and bore it on high. But the battle was lost. The Crescent -of Mecca shone triumphant. Saladin was the victor. The fields of -Lubieh and the hill-sides of Hattîn were covered with the dying and the -dead; Count Raymond, with the remnant of his followers, had fled, and -safely reached ’Akka; while the defeated king, the Grand Master of the -Templars, Raynald of Chatillon, and the Bishop of Lydda, with the Holy -Cross, fell into the hands of the Moslems. - -Conducted to the pavilion of Saladin, the distinguished prisoners -were received with the respect due their rank, and with a kindness of -demeanor worthy a great warrior. Glancing at each as the group stood -before him, he seemed to pity their misfortunes, till his eye fell -on Raynald, on whom he bent a look of mingled rage and scorn. Having -ordered sherbet, cooled with ice, to be presented to the king, and the -latter having passed it to Raynald, Saladin said, “Thou givest him to -drink, not I;” which proverbial saying was equivalent to a sentence -of death. Fixing his eye on the doomed count, and reminding him of his -perfidy, he offered him pardon if he would embrace the doctrines of the -Prophet; but, on Raynald refusing to renounce his Christian faith, the -sultan drew his cimeter, and, piercing him through, the guards rushed -upon him and dragged him lifeless from the imperial tent. Guy, with the -captive princes, was sent to Damascus for imprisonment, and 230 knights, -both of the Hospital and the Temple, were beheaded in cold blood and -without mercy. Taking advantage of the destruction of the Christian -army and of the capture of the king, Saladin advanced, and, after -capturing the larger sea-port towns from Ascalon to Beirut, excepting -Tyre, in less than three months from the battle of Hattîn he was master -of all Palestine, and on the 3d of October, 1187, he entered the Holy -City in triumph.[624] - -From a scene so ghastly, yet so lovely, we journeyed from the Mount -of Beatitudes to Nazareth. The path mounts the northwestern shoulder -of Hattîn, and descends to the Plain of Lubieh, where, on the summit of -a low hill, is a village of the same name. Passing to the southwest, we -entered a larger and richer plain, opening into El-Buttauf, and forming -one of those fine plateaus which distinguish the mountain scenery of -Galilee. A mile in width, it is a vast field of wheat and corn, and -through its centre runs a noble road, which was thronged with pilgrims. -From its western edge a path leads up to Kefr Kenna, the monkish “Cave -of Galilee.” Reaching the summit of the ridge at sunset, the Carmel -range was overspread with a pink haze, while the castellated heights of -Seffurieh reflected the last rays of the setting sun. Nazareth lay at -our feet, surrounded with its ancient hills, and, descending the steep -declivity, we entered the town amid the deepening shadows of evening, -and were kindly received by the monks of the Latin convent. - -It is a fact no less true than remarkable, that Nazareth is without -an authentic history older than the Christian era; and though, at the -time of the occurrence of the great event which has given immortality -to its name, it was a considerable village, it is neither mentioned by -Josephus nor the writers of the Old Testament. That it was known and -generally held in contempt by the people prior to the Annunciation is -evident from the significant question of Nathaniel, “Can there any good -thing come out of Nazareth?”[625] Encompassed by 15 naked hill-tops, -it occupies the western side of an oblong basin, which is a mile long -and a quarter of a mile wide. Here, filling portions of the three -ravines which penetrate the highest of the hills, the town is built. -Constructed of limestone, the buildings are cleaner and neater than -those of any other Syrian village. Out of a population of 4000 souls, -more than three fourths are Christians. Under their enlightened -influence Nazareth is increasing in wealth and numbers, and is now -the capital of the district. As if conscious of their superior numbers, -intelligence, wealth, and piety, the Christians assert and defend -their rights. In nearly all other parts of Palestine the Christians -are cringing and fearful, but the Nazarenes are not afraid either to -measure swords or creeds with the followers of the Prophet. The whole -town wears an aspect of genuine thrift and business prosperity, and the -number of thriving schools, filled with pupils, is the best evidence -of a free and enlightened Christianity. Supported by the Protestant -Mission of Jerusalem, these schools are furnished with all the -appliances requisite to success; and the hundreds of children annually -educated can not fail to change the sentiments of the public, and -heighten the tone of morals and piety in the city of our Lord’s -childhood. - - Illustration: NAZARETH. - -The chief objects of interest in Nazareth are the legendary sites -connected with the history of the holy family. Strangely enough, the -Greeks and Latins contend for separate and rival localities as the -scene of the Annunciation. In the southeastern portion of the town is -the Latin convent, covering the traditional grotto where Mary stood -when she received the salutation of the angel. The monastery is a -square, heavy building, encompassed by a high stone wall, and is -entered through a massive gate. Along the sides of an interior court -are the school-rooms, the pharmacy, and the apartments of the superior. -The interior of the church is a square of 70 feet, and consists of -a nave and aisles formed by four large piers, on which rests the -vaulted roof. The columns and walls are covered with canvas, painted -in imitation of tapestry, and illustrative of Scripture scenes. Among -the pictures is one representing the marriage of Joseph and Mary, and -another portraying the appearing of the angel to the husband of the -Virgin. A flight of 15 steps leads down to the sacred grotto, which -is 20 feet long, as many wide, and 10 deep. The sides are incased with -marble, and on the altar, which is of the same material, are seven -vases of flowers, and over it are nine silver lamps, which are kept -perpetually burning. Behind the altar is a large and excellent picture -of the Annunciation, a gift of the Emperor of Austria. To the right of -the altar a small door opens into the remaining portion of the grotto, -which has been left in its natural state, and from this apartment a -staircase leads up into a low rude cave, called the “Virgin Mary’s -Kitchen.” This grotto is said to have been beneath the house and home -of Mary. - -Not content with the possession of a site so precious, the Franciscan -monks pretend to have rescued from oblivion the “Workshop of Joseph.” -It is a small arched chapel, plain and neat, and, though a modern -structure, is sanctified by a fragment of an old wall, a portion of -the veritable “shop.” Above the altar is a good painting representing -Joseph at work. He is represented as leaning upon the handle of his -axe; the youthful Savior is sitting near him reading from the Prophets, -while Mary occupies a less conspicuous place. Still another picture -adorns the walls of this humble chapel. Joseph is at work at his bench; -Jesus is assisting his father by holding one end of the chalk-line -while the latter is snapping it; and Mary is sitting opposite them, -industriously at work with her needle. - -As the rivals of the Latins, the Greeks have identified the site -of the angelic salutation on the eastern side of the town, and -over the “Fountain of the Virgin” have erected their “Church of the -Annunciation.” Without exterior elegance, it is a low structure, with -arched ceiling supported by small square piers. In the east end is an -altar-screen of wood, elaborately carved, on the panels of which are -painted Bible scenes. In the opposite end is a large latticed screen, -separating that portion of the church which is allotted to women from -the main part of the edifice. In the north end is a recess occupied -by the nuns, and over the entrance is a splendid picture of the -Annunciation. Mary is represented as standing by a fountain, modest and -attentive, and of a lovely form; near her is the Angel Gabriel, in the -act of salutation; while above them is the august form of the Divine -Father, with outspread hands, bestowing his gracious benediction. - -Near this church, and at the base of a hill, is the outlet of the -sacred fountain, which the Greeks claim to be the veritable spring -to which Mary was accustomed to come for water, and where she was -saluted by the angel. Having its source beneath the church, the water -is conducted to this spot through a stone aqueduct, where, from under -a rude arch, it flows into a marble trough. Though not perennial, yet, -as this is the chief fountain of the city, and as it probably existed -during the residence of the holy family, it was, no doubt, often -visited by the mother of our Lord. The legend that the salutation was -given at a spring is derived from the apocryphal Gospels, especially -the one bearing the name of St. James. Following the example of Mary, -the beautiful maidens of Nazareth resort to this famous fountain not -only for water, but for the more agreeable objects of conversation and -courtship. - -Coming from the “Church of the Annunciation” at the hour of vespers, -I witnessed a scene here as novel as it was interesting. From twenty -to thirty maidens were waiting to fill their long earthen pitchers from -the crystal spring. Attired in a style as neat as it was elegant, they -wore close-fitting jackets of different colors, long pointed veils of -perfect whiteness, and head-dresses of silver coins. Their forms were -straight and symmetrical, their features regular and handsome, their -hair full and black, their eyes dark and lustrous, and their complexion -of a soft brunette. Waiting their turn to the fountain, they laughed -and chatted merrily together, and, gracefully poising the pitcher on -head or shoulder, they seemed to regard the labor a delight rather than -a task. Celebrated for their beauty, an old writer ascribes it to the -special favor of Mary. - -The only other great event connected with our Lord’s life in Nazareth, -and which could have had “a local habitation and a name,” is his sermon -in the synagogue, and the subsequent attempt of his townsmen to thrust -him from the brow of the hill. Unwilling that any site should perish, -the Latins pretend to have identified the one and the other. That which -is shown as the site of the former may possibly be correct, but the -“inventors of sacred places” have displayed less discrimination in -the selection of the latter than in their choice of other localities. -Selecting it for its precipitous appearance, as it overhangs the Plain -of Esdraelon, the monks have designated a rugged mountain two miles -to the southeast from Nazareth as the “Mount of Precipitation.” But -while the height and steepness of this mountain might have answered -the murderous purpose of the Nazarenes, yet it is too distant to be in -keeping with the letter of the text. With his accustomed minuteness, -St. Luke gives a simple narration of the facts of that premeditated -tragedy: “And all they in the synagogue, when they heard these things, -were filled with wrath, and rose up and thrust him out of the city, and -led him unto the brow of the hill whereupon their city was built, that -they might cast him down headlong.”[626] The lofty hill to the west of -the town corresponds, in its relative location, to that of the city, -and is more in harmony with the inspired narrative. With Nazareth at -its base, covering its lower spurs and creeping up its ravines, it -rises to the height of 500 feet. Its sides are steep and covered with -white limestone rocks, and, though not smooth, it is not sufficiently -uneven to arrest one’s fall. Once started downward by a violent -push, no human power could resist the force or avert the catastrophe. -Desiring to test the difficulty of the descent, I found it impossible -to descend with safety except by placing my feet in the fissures of -the rocks. With a meekness which was the more remarkable because of -its exalted purpose, the Master suffered the infuriated mob to hurry -him through the crowded streets, and up through one of the ravines, -to the brow of the hill, where, by a display of his wondrous power, he -released himself from their grasp, and, “passing through the midst of -them, went his way.” - -From the summit of this hill not only is one of the noblest views -in Palestine obtained, but it is the best place for pious reflection. -Reaching the highest point in half an hour, we found thereon the ruined -wely of Neby Isma’il, and around it were growing the beautiful amaranth -and other kinds of Syrian flowers. The wind blew strongly from the sea, -which, together with a hazy sky, lessened the enjoyment of the hour; -but the wide and glorious prospect was before us. There was Tabor, with -its oaken groves; the “Mountains of Gilead,” with the brown plateau -of Pella; the Plain of Esdraelon, with its graceful undulations and -memorable cities; the Hills of Samaria, green and rolling; the long -range of Carmel, crowned with its wealthy convent, and casting its deep -shadow into the Bay of Haifa, where the navies of Europe were riding -at anchor; the Plain of ’Akka, where “Asher dipped his foot in oil, and -yielded royal dainties;” the wide sea, “dotted with many a sail;” the -intervening hills, all wooded and sinking down in gentle slopes into -winding valleys of the richest verdure; the Plain of El-Buttauf, and -the Crusaders’ Castle of Seffurieh; the long ridges of the Galilean -Hills running up toward Safed, “the city set upon a hill;” and rising -above them all in grandeur was Hermon, with its mighty dome of snowy -whiteness sparkling in the sun like a crown of glory. - -Contracting the scope of the vision, the wandering eye returned and -rested on the immortal village, quietly nestling at the mountain’s base. -It is Nazareth! How the sacred associations throng the mind! How the -imagination is tempted to picture scenes which must have occurred, but -which are not recorded! The theme is too divine for fancy. The same -infinite wisdom is displayed in what is not written as is manifested in -what is recorded. Lift not the veil that the Father has drawn over the -thirty years of seclusion of his Son, nor attempt to be wise above that -which is written. It is enough that in this mountain village lived Mary -and Joseph; that here they loved and were betrothed; that by its spring, -or in its fields, or in her quiet home, ere came the marriage-day, -“Gabriel was sent from God unto a city of Galilee, named Nazareth, to a -virgin espoused to a man whose name was Joseph, of the house of David; -and the virgin’s name was Mary. And the angel came in unto her and said -Hail! thou art highly favored; the Lord is with thee; blessed art thou -among women;” that twice after the annunciation Mary ascended from her -native vale, and, crossing these same hills, she journeyed southward -into Judea――once to visit her cousin Elizabeth, and again to give a -Savior to the world; and that, after the presentation in the Temple, -hither the holy family returned to the duties and enjoyments of private -life.[627] With one solitary allusion, the silence of thirty years -remains unbroken as to the life of Jesus prior to his public ministry. -Subject to his parents, here he resided, treading these streets, -wandering over these hills, and from this commanding summit beholding -the same panorama which now is before us. The imagination pictures -his childhood as lovely, his youth retiring and meditative, his -manhood studious, youthful, and devout. Here were spent the years of -preparation, and from a city without a history he went forth on the -most benevolent mission that ever fell to the lot of man――to teach -the sublimest truths, to illustrate the purest character, to die as no -other man could die, and to establish a kingdom of righteousness, truth, -and peace. Only twice is he known to have returned to the “city where -he had been brought up;” once when rejected by his townsmen,[628] and -again when he was met with the taunt, “Is not this the carpenter, the -son of Mary, the brother of James, and Joses, and of Simon, and Judas? -and are not his sisters with us?”[629] Unable to do many “mighty works -there because of their unbelief,” he abandoned Nazareth forever, and, -choosing Capernaum as his “adopted city,” he was received with joy by -the delighted people.[630] - - - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Phœnicia. ―― Its Extent and Fertility. ―― Origin of the - Phœnicians. ―― Their Commerce. ―― Their Learning. ―― Departure - from Nazareth. ―― Cana of Galilee. ―― First Christian Wedding. - ―― Beautiful Vale of Abilîn. ―― Plain of Accho. ―― City of - ’Akka. ―― Names. ―― Metropolis of the Crusaders. ―― Their - Destruction. ―― Gibbon. ―― The Moslem Nero. ―― Napoleon’s - Defeat. ―― Road to Tyre. ―― Summer Palace. ―― Excavations. ―― - Wild and dangerous Pass. ―― Antiquity of Tyre. ―― Three Tyres. - ―― Stupendous Water-works. ―― Continental Tyre. ―― Sins and - Judgments. ―― Glory departed. ―― How Prophecy was fulfilled. - ―― Insular Tyre. ―― Tyre of the Crusaders. ―― Cathedral. ―― - Tomb of Hiram. ―― Wonderful Temple. ―― Sarepta. ―― Zidon. ―― - Gardens. ―― Ancient Glory. ―― Wars. ―― Harbor. ―― Citadel. ―― - Tombs. ―― Interesting Discoveries. ―― Ornaments. - - -HISTORICALLY, the Holy Land is divided into three great -sections――Palestine, Philistia, and Phœnicia. The latter is that long -maritime plain stretching for 120 miles from the Promontory of Carmel -on the south to the River Eleutherus on the north. Not exceeding 12 -miles in its greatest width, it is washed by the Mediterranean on the -west, and is bounded on the east by a mountain barrier, through which -there is but one practicable pass from the “Ladder of Tyre” to the -island of Aradus.[631] In addition to numberless streams, it is watered -with the Rivers Kishon, Leontes, Aulay, Tamyras, Lycus, Adonis, Hadîsha, -and Eleutherus. Deriving its Greek name from “a palm,” as significant -of its richness, it is still fruitful where cultivated; and though -only occasionally that celebrated tree is seen, yet groves of oranges -and lemons environ its modern towns. While in its gardens are produced -apricots, peaches, almonds, figs, dates, the sugar-cane, and grapes, -which furnish excellent wine, its mountain slopes are covered with -oaks, pines, acacias, tamarisks, and the majestic cedar. Divided into -sections by bold promontories projecting far into the sea, its general -surface is undulating, and its shore-line is indented with small bays, -near which stood those renowned cities which have given celebrity to -the whole plain. - -Originally settled by the descendants of Sidon, the son of Canaan,[632] -Phœnicia was included in the promise to Abraham; but, either from -inability or unwillingness to expel its powerful and wealthy traders, -it was only nominally possessed by his posterity. The grandeur of that -promise, the sublime purpose of Jehovah as to the material greatness -of his chosen people, together with the religious mission of the Jews, -demanded such a maritime possession. Had they had the advantages of -a powerful navy and of a vast commerce, Palestine would have been the -leading power on earth, and would have held the first rank among the -mighty nations of antiquity. It is one of those stupendous facts which -illustrate the infinite wisdom of Providence, and the relations of the -Promised Land to all the world, that, as Palestine has given to mankind -a religion, Phœnicia is the primeval seat of commerce and letters. -From their splendid cities of Tyre and Sidon the Phœnicians launched -out upon the hitherto unknown Mediterranean, and, having planted -colonies on the islands of Cyprus and Rhodes, they sailed into Greece. -Emboldened by success, and charmed with the excitement of a new life, -they turned to the northwest, and, having visited Sicily, Sardinia, -and the northern coast of Spain, they passed through the Straits of -Gibraltar, occupied the Isle of Gades, penetrated as far northward as -Britain, and returning, they stretched southward from the Straits and -founded Carthage, the formidable rival of Rome, and the only one that -threatened her destruction.[633] It is a thought as beautiful as it -is true, that, while holding commercial relations with all the nations -on the shores of their native sea, and on the western coasts of Europe -and Africa, and trafficking, by their caravans, with Persia, Arabia, -and Asia, their intercourse with those distant nations was marked -by the blessings of the arts of peace rather than by the calamities -of war. Attaining the summit of their power and glory in the reign of -Solomon, how changed would have been the moral aspects of the earth -had those early mariners been Jews, disseminating a knowledge of -the true God wherever they planted a colony, and illustrating a pure -worship wherever they sold their “Tyrian purple.” Celebrated for their -knowledge of architecture and of various mechanic arts, and also for -their learning, it was from one of these Phœnician cities that Cadmus -went forth, about 15 centuries B.C., and laid the foundation of Grecian -literature, the pride of succeeding ages, and the glory of modern -scholarship. Nowhere upon the globe can be found a tract of land so -small as this, where have originated three such powerful agents for -“weal or woe” to mankind, and which, still operating, are affecting -the opinions and moulding the characters of men in all lands. - -So intimately blended are the events of sacred and profane history -connected with all that region extending from the Hills of Nazareth to -the Mediterranean, and from the Promontory of Carmel to the mulberry -groves of Sidon, that the traveler scarcely realizes the transition -from Palestine to Phœnicia. Reluctantly leaving those scenes sacred -to the life and deeds of our Lord, we found ourselves, at the close of -the day, in the midst of new associations, dating back to the earliest -authentic records. Stopping for a moment at the Fountain of Seffurieh, -around which Guy de Lusignan gathered the heroic Crusaders on the -night previous to the fatal battle of Hattîn, we ascended the hill of -ancient Sepphoris, and, crossing the beautiful plain of El-Buttauf, -came to the ruins of Cana of Galilee. Situated seven miles to the north -from Nazareth, it occupies a tongue of land extending into the plain, -bounded on either side by a small ravine, and behind the town rises -a rocky, barren hill. The home of Nathaniel the apostle,[634] and -the residence of the bride of St. John, here was celebrated the first -Christian wedding on record; and, being present as a guest, here the -Savior performed his first miracle,[635] when - - “The modest water, awed by power divine, - Confessed its God, and, blushing, turned to wine.” - -Here, at a subsequent visit, the Master was met by the “nobleman of -Capernaum whose son was sick,” and, though 20 miles distant, he healed -the youth, and commanded the father, “Go thy way; thy son liveth.”[636] - -In the southern valley is a noble circular well, four feet in -diameter, and probably the same from which the water was drawn for the -miracle. An Arab, his son, and two daughters were resting there with -their flocks, and from them we obtained a drink of the delicious water. -But Cana is now a ruin, and is deserted. Not a house remains standing. -Heaps of fallen buildings are overgrown with grass; and where the -nuptials of the beloved John were celebrated the silence of death -reigns unbroken, and rank weeds grow luxuriantly where Jewish maidens -were wont to gather flowers to form the bridal wreath. - -Turning westward, we entered the glorious Valley of Abilîn. It is not -wide, nor are the hills that inclose it high; but it is a scene of -surpassing loveliness. Here are rolling hills covered with the richest -verdure; wooded glens filled with oaks and acacias; soft lawns bright -with flowers; running brooks falling over rocks into sparkling cascades, -and birds of rare plumage singing their sweetest songs. Soon the sea, -reflecting the sunlight from a smooth surface, burst like enchantment -upon our view. Now the valley widens, the hills recede――they die away, -and we are on the plain of ancient Accho. Carmel is seen to the south, -the _Scala Tyriorum_ to the north, while the Hills of Galilee are -on the east, giving to the plain the form of a semicircle, with the -sea-coast for a diameter. Eight miles wide and 20 long, most of it is -a marsh in winter, but a fruitful garden in spring and summer. Falling -to the lot of Asher, here “he dipped his foot in oil; his bread was -fat, and he yielded royal dainties;”[637] and “here he continued on -the sea-shore, and abode in his creeks,”[638] when Deborah called the -nations to arms against Sisera. - -Occupying a triangular neck of land, with a large bay on the south -and the sea on the west, the town of ’Akka is large and well fortified. -Having a population of 5000 souls, four fifths of whom are Moslems, -it is the residence of the Pasha, whose jurisdiction embraces Nazareth, -Safed, Tiberias, and Haifa. Regarded as of the first importance as -a military position, it is garrisoned by a strong force. Though its -massive fortifications, which were shattered in former wars, have -never been repaired, its sea-wall, which is nine feet thick, is -in a good condition, and is surmounted by several large guns. The -buildings of the town are of stone, built square and high; the streets -are narrow and shaded with matting, and the only structures of note -within the city are the Mosque of Jezzâr and the Temple of the Knights -Hospitallers. The mosque is high and square, and is surmounted with a -balustrade; the façade is adorned with a fine portico; the open area -within is paved with Syrian marble, and is surrounded with an arcade on -which are small domes. Beneath the palm and fig trees old soldiers and -venerable Turks were reclining in silence. Not far from the mosque is -the city prison, consisting of an immense cellar, dark and loathsome, -in which were 180 culprits of different ages, incarcerated for small -and great offenses. - -Called by Samuel Accho, by the Greeks Ptolemais, after Ptolemy, king of -Egypt, and by the Arabs ’Akka, the Arabic of the scriptural name, the -city is mentioned but twice by the sacred writers――once in connection -with the tribe of Asher,[639] and again as the landing-place of St. -Paul on his way to Jerusalem.[640] But it derives its chief importance -from its relation to modern European history. Napoleon called it the -“key of Palestine;” and, during the last 700 years, from Baldwin to -Napier, it has been grasped by many a rude hand. As it bears three -names, so it is remarkable for three historical events――the destruction -of the Crusaders, the reign of Jezzâr, and the defeat of Napoleon I. - -“After the loss of Jerusalem, Acre[641] became the metropolis of the -Latin Christians, and was adorned with strong and stately buildings, -with aqueducts, an artificial port, and a double wall. The population -was increased by the incessant streams of pilgrims and fugitives; in -the pauses of hostility the trade of the East and West was attracted -to this convenient station, and the market could offer the produce of -every clime and the interpreters of every tongue. But in this conflux -of nations, every vice was propagated and practiced.... The city -had many sovereigns and no government. The Kings of Jerusalem and -Cyprus, of the house of Lusignan, the Princes of Antioch, the Counts -of Tripoli and Sidon, the Great Masters of the Hospital, the Temple, -and the Teutonic order, the republics of Venice, Genoa, and Pisa, the -Pope’s legate, the Kings of France and England, assumed an independent -command; seventeen tribunals exercised the power of life and death; -every criminal was protected in the adjacent quarter; and the perpetual -jealousy of the nations often burst forth in acts of violence and blood. -Some adventurers, who disgraced the ensign of the Cross, compensated -their want of pay by the plunder of the Mohammedan villages: nineteen -Syrian merchants, who traded under the public faith, were despoiled -and hanged by the Christians, and the denial of satisfaction justified -the arms of the Sultan Khalil. He marched against Acre at the head of -60,000 horse and 140,000 foot; his train of artillery (if I may use the -expression) was numerous and weighty; the separate timbers of a single -engine were transported in 100 wagons; and the royal historian Abulfeda, -who served with the troops of Hamah, was himself a spectator of the -holy war. Whatever might be the vices of the Franks, their courage was -rekindled by enthusiasm and despair; but they were torn by the discord -of seventeen chiefs, and overwhelmed on all sides by the powers of -the sultan. After a siege of 33 days the double wall was forced by the -Moslems, the principal tower yielded to their engines, the Mamelukes -made a general assault, the city was stormed, and death or slavery was -the lot of 60,000 Christians. The convent, or rather fortress, of the -Templars resisted three days longer; but the great master was pierced -with an arrow, and of 500 knights only 10 were left alive, less happy -than the victims of the sword if they lived to suffer on the scaffold -in the unjust and cruel proscription of the whole order. The King of -Jerusalem, the Patriarch, and the Great Master of the Hospital effected -their retreat to the shore; but the sea was rough, the vessels were -insufficient, and great numbers of the fugitives were drowned before -they could reach the Isle of Cyprus, which might comfort Lusignan for -the loss of Palestine. By the command of the sultan, the churches and -fortifications of the Latin cities were demolished: a motive of avarice -or fear still opened the holy sepulchre to some devout, defenseless -pilgrims; and a mournful and solitary silence prevailed along the coast -which had so long resounded with the world’s debate.”[642] - - Illustration: ACRE FROM THE EAST. - -Five centuries later ’Akka became the royal city of one of the most -infamous characters in history, whose name is to be mentioned only with -that of Herod, and whose cruelties constitute him the Nero of modern -times. Rising by theft and perjury from the servitude of a common -slave to the dignity of a pasha, Jezzâr――“the Butcher,” dishonored his -pashalic with the most inhuman deeds, perpetrated without cause upon -eminent citizens and upon the beautiful slave-girls of his harem. - -But the city was destined to witness the exploits of the greatest -warrior of our age. To the east of the town is a low mound, where, in -1799, the great Napoleon planted his batteries, and from the summit of -which, after eight successive assaults, he witnessed the defeat of his -army, and with that defeat disappeared forever all his bright visions -of an Eastern empire. - -The distance from Acre to ancient Tyre is 25 miles, and the journey -is replete with interest. Mounting our horses at 11 A.M., our path lay -along the western border of the Plain of Phœnicia. In less than half an -hour we passed beneath the Aqueduct of Jezzâr, supported by 100 arches. -Through the neglect of a people who are indifferent to works of art, -it is now a ruin, and in part overgrown with weeds. Two miles beyond -is the summer palace of the late Abdallah Pasha. Sixty cypresses line -the road-side, and within an inclosed garden, in the midst of orange -and lemon trees, is the charming residence. Passing the site of Achzib, -a town allotted to Asher,[643] we reached, in an hour, the _Scala -Tyriorum_, or “Tyrian Ladder,” forming the boundary-line between -Phœnicia and the Holy Land. A bold promontory, with a white base -dipping into the sea, it is the most southern root of Lebanon, and is -the counterpart of Carmel. Sprinkled with shrubs and dotted with tufts -of grass, its sides are broken and stony. The path over it is zigzag, -and not unlike a flight of winding steps. The descent down the opposite -side is exceedingly rough, now over low mountain spurs, and again -through a narrow defile leading to a plain below. Passing over sections -of an old Roman road, we came to the village of Nâkûrah, and to the -east of it, high up in the mountain ravines, was a company of French -soldiers excavating a buried city which has neither name nor story. -They had succeeded in uncovering one temple and a number of elegant -sarcophagi, but no inscriptions had been discovered by which to -ascertain the origin of the unknown town. Two miles to the north we -came to the white cliffs of Ras el-Abyad, or the _Promontorium Album_ -of the ancients. This is one of the wildest, and, at times, the most -dangerous passes on the Phœnician coast. The sides of the bluff are -perpendicular, and the waves dash wildly against its base. The path is -cut in the white limestone rocks 500 feet above the level of the sea, -and in places it skirts the very verge of the precipice. Huge boulders -have fallen from the cliffs above, and others seem ready to follow. -Excited by the grandeur of the scene and the danger of the moment, we -successfully cleared the pass in half an hour, when we gained our first -view of the plain and peninsula of Tyre. Descending rapidly to the -plain below, the dreariness of the journey was relieved by the glorious -appearance of Hermon, whose snow-capped summits were bright in the -evening light, while the plain over which we rode was darkened by the -shadows of the adjacent mountains. Traveling on for hours over the -deep sandy beach, we reached Ras el-’Ain in the dusk of the evening, -and an hour after entered the solitary gate of the renowned city of -the ancient Tyrians. - - Illustration: LADDER OF TYRE. - -Few cities can boast of a higher antiquity, of grander edifices, -and of greater renown than Tyre. Founded by the Phœnicians, rebuilt -by the Romans, and again restored by the Christians, there have been -three Tyres, the history of each of which would fill a volume. Called -by Isaiah the “daughter of Sidon,”[644] it was a “strong city” in -the days of Joshua;[645] it was the ally of Solomon;[646] and it was -a prize coveted by Shalmanezer, Nebuchadnezzar, and Alexander the -Great. The cradle of commerce, Tyre became the mistress of the seas; -her merchantmen traded in every port in the known world, and from her -thriving shores she sent forth her sons, dotting the coasts of Europe -and Africa with flourishing colonies. Nothing can excel the accuracy -of detail and the elegance of graphic description contained in the 27th -chapter of Ezekiel on the wealth and glory of Tyre; and now, after the -lapse of twenty-five centuries, her scattered ruins attest the truth of -prophecy. Her walls are destroyed, her towers broken down, her stones -and timber are in the midst of the water, her ancient site is “a place -for the spreading of nets in the midst of the sea,” and the remains -of her marble castles, gorgeous palaces, triple gateways, lofty towers, -and spacious harbors are now seen half buried beneath the drifting sand -or washed by the restless waves. Entering a small boat, and passing out -of the inner basin into the larger harbor, we saw immense columns of -red granite lying prostrate beneath the surface of the clear water, -and others imbedded in the solid rock, or cemented together by some -powerful agent. - - Illustration: TYRE. - -The Sidonian colonists who founded Phœnician or Continental Tyre -evidently settled on the main land, three miles to the south from -the modern city, and a quarter of a mile from the shore. Here, at Ras -el-’Ain, “the Fountain-head,” are the most stupendous water-works of -ancient times. They consist of four immense fountains, the water of -which descends through the mountains on the east, and, rising to the -surface here, is collected into separate reservoirs, from which it -was originally distributed to irrigate the plain. The most southern -of these fountains is the largest. Octagonal in form, it is 66 feet -in diameter and 25 high. The lateral walls are eight feet thick, and -gently slope to their base. Three hundred feet to the eastward are -the other cisterns, one 36 and two 60 feet square, constructed of -well-dressed stones, joined by a fine cement, and built directly over -the places where the water gushes up from the earth. Formerly the -stream was carried from the lower to the upper pools by an aqueduct -which is now a ruin; and from the upper reservoirs there can now be -traced an old Roman aqueduct, resting on arches, to a mound two miles -distant, crowned with the remains of a massive building, from which -point it turns westward toward the city. Amid a thicket of willows and -groves of mulberry-trees are a few wretched huts, and the only use to -which this great water-power is now applied is to drive a single mill -and slake the thirst of the transient traveler. - - Illustration: RAS EL-’AIN. - -Though they are unquestionably of a high antiquity, the author and -finisher of these great works are unknown. There is an Arab legend -that Alexander the Great constructed a subterranean canal through which -he brought the water from Bagdad! but a more pious tradition ascribes -them to Solomon. Quoting Menander the Ephesian, Josephus informs us -that they existed in the days of Shalmanezer, who, in his siege of Tyre, -“placed guards at the rivers and aqueducts to hinder the Tyrians from -drawing water.”[647] - -Around these fountains, and stretching northward over this fertile -plain, stood the old city of Tyre. Though neither temple nor column -remains to mark the site, yet beneath the drifted sands of many -centuries lie entombed those magnificent ruins which have escaped -the hand of the spoiler, and which, of late, have been uncovered in -part near the hill called Tell Habeish. During the reign of Hiram, -Palai-Tyrus consisted of two parts, the larger and grander standing -near the fountains on the main land, and the smaller on an island -three miles to the north and not far from the shore.[648] It was by -retiring to this island that the inhabitants were enabled to maintain -the defense of their insular city against the attack by Shalmanezer -during a period of five years.[649] Though subsequently besieged by -Nebuchadnezzar for 13 years, yet it was reserved for the son of Philip -to be the scourge of Providence, the destroyer of the city, and the -accomplisher of prophecy. The continental city falling an easy prey -to the victorious arms of Alexander the Great, he laid siege to the -insular town for seven months. To capture this strong-hold, he removed -a large portion of the materials of the former place, and with them -built a causeway connecting the island with the continent. Advancing -on this new military road, he took the city by storm; and, having slain -8000 of the citizens in the attack, he crucified 2000 others, and sold -30,000 more into slavery. Thus terminated the wonderful history of -Phœnician Tyre, whose wealth was equaled only by her luxury, and whose -power was excelled only by her pride. Abandoned to the worst forms of -idolatry, she incurred the displeasure of an offended God; intoxicated -with prosperity, she broke her “covenant” with the Hebrews, and -confederated with other nations against them;[650] haughty as she was -impious, she scrupled not to demand the wealth and sacred ornaments -of the Temple at Jerusalem, which the enemies of the Jews had -sacrilegiously pillaged;[651] forgetting the covenant with David and -Solomon, she purchased the Jewish captives from their conquerors, and, -loading her vessels with the human cargo, sold them into slavery in -distant countries;[652] and when Nebuchadnezzar had utterly destroyed -the Holy City, and had subdued and wasted all the lands of the Jews, -she exulted over their downfall, and insultingly exclaimed, “Aha! she -is broken that was the gates of the people; she is turned unto me; I -shall be replenished now that she is laid waste.”[653] - -For these sins God denounced against Tyre the severest judgments, -and to-day she is a mournful proof of the accuracy and fulfillment of -prophecy. Her royal palaces have given place to the abodes of poverty; -her magnificent navy, with sails of embroidered linen from Egypt and -ivory benches from the Isle of Chittim, has been exchanged for a few -crazy fishing-boats; her famous mariners from Sidon and Arvad are -superseded by boatmen whose nautical knowledge is not equal to a cruise -on the Mediterranean five miles from land; and her vast commerce in -the precious metals of Tarshish, the slaves of Javan, the horses of -Togarmah, the coral and agate of Syria, the wheat of Minnith, the wine -of Helbon, the spices of Sheba, the cassia and calamus of Dan, the -precious clothes for chariots of Dedan, and the fine fleeces of Arabia, -has dwindled down to an occasional cargo of millstones and juniper -charcoal. Even her hill-sides, once rich in olive-groves, are now -forsaken; and such have been the incursions of the sea, that the once -fertile plain of Tyre has been transformed into a sandy waste, and she -who was the “perfection of beauty is now smitten with baldness;” in her -unrelieved desolation, her harps of gold and enchanting minstrelsy are -forever silent, and winds and waves alone lament her departed glory. So -complete is the ruin of the primal city, and so difficult to determine -with exactitude the site of the Phœnician Tyre, that it is still true, -“Thou shalt be no more; though thou be sought for, yet shalt thou never -be found again, saith the Lord God.”[654] In removing the materials -of the old town to fill up the arm of the sea between the island and -main land, Alexander the Great fulfilled these astonishing words: “They -shall break down thy walls and destroy thy pleasant houses; and they -shall lay thy stones, and thy timber, and thy dust in the midst of -the water.”[655] And, as significant of the utterness of her ruin, the -traveler of to-day beholds what the prophet saw in the heavenly vision; -“I will make thee like the top of a rock; thou shalt be a place to -spread nets upon; thou shalt be built no more.”[656] - -While the words, “Thou shalt be built no more,” are singularly and -literally true when applied to Continental Tyre, yet the island city, -which was not included in the prophetic denunciation, rose to great -elegance under the Romans. Attaining to somewhat of the pristine -splendor of the parent city in the first century, it resumed in part -its ancient sway over the sea. Receiving Christianity at an early -period, it was visited by St. Paul when on his way to Jerusalem, “who, -finding disciples, we tarried there seven days.”[657] Seized by the -Arabs in 638 A.D., it remained in their possession till June 27, 1124, -when it was captured by the Crusaders, who held it for 150 years, when -it fell again into the hands of the Moslems on the evening of the day -on which ’Akka was captured. Declining under their withering sceptre, -at the close of the 17th century it was without a house, and its vaults -were occupied by a few fishermen.[658] Under the fanatical Metawileh, -in 1766 it was partially restored. Modern Tyre is a village of 4000 -inhabitants, equally divided in their religious faith between Christ -and Mohammed. What was once Alexander’s causeway is now a sandy isthmus, -and what was once an island is now a peninsula. Originally extremely -narrow, but increased by the action of the winds and waves upheaving -the loose sands, the isthmus is half a mile wide, and that which was -formerly the island is a ridge of rocks parallel to the shore, nearly a -mile long, three quarters of a mile broad, and half a mile distant from -the coast-line. The general surface is uneven, in part strewn by rocks, -and in part encumbered by the accumulation of rubbish. The present town -occupies the northwestern portion of the peninsula, and is near the -ancient harbor. A single gate admits the traveler to the city. Around -it are the remains of old towers, and near it are two deep wells, -from which the inhabitants obtain their principal supply of water. -With few exceptions the buildings are mere hovels, the streets narrow -and crooked, and the citizens filthy and ignorant. As if to hide the -fallen glory of Tyre, there are a few palms and pride of India trees -growing in the gardens. Within the shattered walls and along the shore -fishermen were mending their nets, and in the gloomy bazars were a few -bales of cotton and tobacco, several tiers of millstones, and heaps -of charcoal. The Moslems have a mosque crowned with two domes, and -from beside it rises a tapering minaret; the Christians have two small -churches, which are remarkable neither for their size nor elegance. -In the southeast corner of the town are the remains of the famous -Cathedral of Tyre, erected in the fourth century by Bishop Paulinus, -and consecrated by Eusebius, and by the latter described as the most -splendid of all the temples of Phœnicia. It was 216 feet long by 136 -broad, and its ruins indicate its great magnificence. The south wall, -the east and west ends, together with the chancel, remain standing; but -the arched roof, the massive columns which supported the triforium, and -the lofty tower, with its spiral staircase, have fallen into a thousand -fragments. Somewhere within these broken walls reposes the dust of -Origen and of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. - -Five miles to the east of the town is the Tomb of Hiram, king of Tyre. -It is an imposing mausoleum, and one of the most interesting monuments -in the Holy Land. It is less remarkable for its beauty and ornaments -than for its grandeur and durability. Crowning a graceful hill, it -consists of a pedestal and a sarcophagus. The former is composed of -four layers of immense blocks of limestone, about ten feet high; the -latter is hewn out of a solid block, and is twelve feet long, eight -wide, and six high, and is surmounted with a pyramidal lid five feet -thick. The ends of the lid are beveled, the top rounded, and it is -fitted on with such care that it is difficult to remove it. On the -north side of the monument is an arched vault 20 feet square and 12 -deep, which no doubt served as the place for the final repose of the -royal family. Commanding a view of the City of the Great King, and -of the sea beyond, the country around the tomb is strangely solitary; -neither ancient ruin nor human habitation is near, but, standing alone, -it is at once a venerable relic of the past and an impressive monument -of the loneliness of death. - - Illustration: TOMB OF HIRAM. - -On the same road, but some distance to the west, the French have -excavated one of the most splendid temples yet discovered in the -environs of Phœnicia. Consisting of a nave, two side aisles, a chancel, -and an altar-piece, it is 75 feet long by 36 wide. The roof and -portions of the walls are gone. Of the 14 columns which formed the -aisles only the bases of 11 of them remain, on each of which is -sculptured the Maltese cross. But its great beauty consists in its -magnificent mosaic pavement, covering more than two thirds of the -entire area. Formed of small square blocks of white and black marble, -it is arranged in the most curious manner. In the aisles are circles -30 inches in diameter, containing figures of sheep, fish, fowls, -fruits, tigers, elephants, buffaloes, dogs, horses, rabbits, deer, -lions, antelopes, and leopards, together with ten mythological busts, -representing the gods and goddesses of Greece and Rome. Before the -high altar is a lengthy inscription in Greek characters; but, owing to -their curious forms and the numerous contractions, it was impossible -to decipher it without reference to learned works. From all that we -could learn from those having the work in charge, it was originally a -heathen temple, was converted into a Christian church by the Crusaders, -and, abandoned during the mediæval wars, it has since remained buried -beneath the accumulated sand and rubbish of centuries. - -A single historic site breaks the monotony of the journey from Tyre -to Sidon, a distance of 25 miles. The path follows the coast along -the Plain of Phœnicia, over which “a mournful and solitary silence -now prevails.”[659] While the hills which bound it on the east are -carefully cultivated, and the summits thereof are adorned with villages, -this vast and rich plain is deserted. Less than two miles from the gate -of Tyre we passed a large fountain, believed by the Arabs to possess -medicinal virtues, and four miles beyond we came to the banks of -the Leontes of the old geographers, and the Nahr el-Kâsimîyeh of the -natives. The third largest river in Syria, its highest source is not -far from the ruins of Ba’albek; and draining the southern section of -the Bukâ’a, with the adjoining sides of the Lebanon and anti-Lebanon, -it bursts the everlasting gates of the former, and, descending through -a wild ravine, crosses the plain to the sea. It is twenty-five feet -wide; its clear waters flow rapidly through a deep gorge, which is -now spanned by a modern bridge, having a single arch. Nine miles to -the north is Khan el-Khudr, the Zarephath of the Old Testament and the -Sarepta of the New. On a fine hill overhanging the plain is the large -town of Sŭrafend, the Arabic of the Scriptural name. The original city -stood near the shore; its site is now marked by a Mohammedan tomb and a -noble fig-tree. Driven by famine from his retreat by the “brook Cherith -that is before Jordan,” hither Elijah came, and was received into the -house of that poor widow whose “barrel of meal wasted not, neither -did the cruise of oil fail,” and whose son, as a reward of faith and -charity, the prophet raised to life.[660] And here an early tradition -has preserved the site of that touching scene of the meeting of Christ -and the woman of Syro-Phœnicia, whose daughter he healed during his -first and only visit “to the coasts of Tyre and Sidon.”[661] - -Ten miles to the north appeared the towers and minarets of Zidon, -surrounded with the most luxuriant gardens in the world. In the -intervening distance sections of the old Roman road can still be traced, -and along the highway are several milestones. On one are inscribed -the names of Septimius Severus and his son, M. Aurelius Antoninus, -better known in history as Caracalla. The inscription bears the date of -198 A.D. Entering the famous gardens of the modern Saida, we rode for -an hour through lengthened avenues of acacias and tamarisks, and amid -mulberry groves, and vast orchards of peaches, pears, apricots, plums, -quinces, oranges, lemons, bananas, and citrons, which filled the -air with a delightful fragrance, and presented to the eye a variety -of finely-tinted and exquisite foliage. Interspersed through these -beautiful groves are country seats possessing all the charms of an -earthly paradise. Our rural path terminated at the very gate of the -city, which was carefully guarded by Turkish soldiers. Entering the -town, we found it situated on a small promontory projecting obliquely -into the sea. Thoroughly Oriental in character and appearance, its -narrow, shaded streets and groups of trees give it an air of repose. -While many of its buildings are small, like those in most Syrian towns, -there are several large and costly. The population is not less than -10,000, and is composed of Moslems, Maronites, Greeks, and Jews. The -chief vocations of the citizens are the cultivation of fruits and the -manufacture of oil and silk, which are exported into Egypt and to ports -along the Mediterranean. - - Illustration: SIDON. - -With an antiquity anterior to authentic history, Sidon is among -the oldest of known cities. Mentioned by the inspired historian in -connection with Sodom and Gaza,[662] it is supposed it was founded by -Sidon, the grandson of Noah.[663] Increasing in wealth and power, the -city had achieved such fame at the time the Hebrews entered Canaan -that it is designated by Joshua the “Great Zidon.”[664] As early as -the Trojan war the Sidonians were celebrated for their skill in the -arts, especially for the manufacture of gorgeous robes, to which Homer -alludes: - - “The Phrygian queen to her rich wardrobe went, - Where treasured odors breathed a costly scent; - There lay the vestures of no vulgar art, - Sidonian maids embroidered every part, - Whom from soft Sidon youthful Paris bore, - With Helen touching on the Tyrian shore. - Here, as the queen revolved, with careful eyes, - The various textures and the various dyes, - She chose a veil that shone superior far, - And glow’d refulgent as the morning star.”[665] - -Increasing in population and commerce to such a degree as to demand -another city, the Sidonians passed down the coast and founded Tyre, -which is called by Isaiah the “daughter of Zidon,” and which in -after years divided with the parent city the empire of the seas.[666] -Excelling all other nations of that period in art and science, her -architects were employed by Solomon in building his magnificent -temple.[667] According to early historians, the Sidonians were versed -in astronomy, geometry, and philosophy, and the vastness of their -commerce evinces their knowledge of navigation. But with them, as with -all the other great nations of antiquity, the usual vices attended -their prosperity, and the increase of luxury was counterbalanced by -the decline of national virtue. Practicing the worst forms of idolatry, -indulging in the grossest immoralities, and violating the most solemn -treaties with God’s people, they drew down upon themselves the severe -denunciations of Jehovah’s prophets. Sentenced by the Lord to the -calamities of war, the prophetic judgments were executed by Shalmanezer -in 720 B.C.; by Artaxerxes Ochus four centuries later; by Alexander -the Great, who entered the gates of the city without a struggle; and -subsequently it has been pillaged and destroyed as often as rebuilt, by -the Ptolemies, the Syrian kings, the Romans, the Moslem invaders, the -Crusaders, until at present its port is without a merchantman, and the -town of Beirŭt, to the north, has become the successful rival of the -once affluent and powerful Sidon. - -The three great objects of interest connected with the modern town -are the harbor, the citadel, and the tombs. The harbor is formed by a -low ridge of rocks running parallel to the shore and extending out from -the northern point of the peninsula. On the rocks stands an old castle, -weather-beaten and much dilapidated, connected with the main land by -a bridge of nine arches. On a commanding hill to the south of the city -is the shattered tower of Louis IX., which is now the citadel of the -town. On the plains and in the hill-sides to the east of Sidon is -the cemetery of its ancient inhabitants, called Mûgharet Tubloon. The -surface of the rock has been cut away to form a perfect level, and -here are the mansions of the dead, arranged in the form of catacombs, -from 10 to 30 feet below the surface of the ground. From a deep, broad -avenue, doors open into lateral halls and rooms, in which are cut -the receptacles for the dead. Descending to the depth of 20 feet, -we entered a broad avenue 25 feet long, which had just been opened. -Running at right angles with the former was a spacious passageway, in -the sides of which are six niches, each five and a half feet deep, four -wide, and ten long. In these niches are magnificent marble sarcophagi, -their sides, ends, and lids being adorned with sculptured lion heads, -horns of plenty, and garlands of flowers. On one, which I took to be -the sarcophagus of a queen, is carved the bust of a female in relief, -surrounded with a wreath of roses. Passing into another chamber, -more elegant than the rest, and which is 20 feet deep, I traced the -beautiful floral paintings on the sides and ceilings of the vault. Here, -in the very centre of the floor, are three entire sarcophagi, of equal -grandeur with the others, measuring eight feet long, three wide, and as -many deep. The largest of the three, which had that day been uncovered -for the first time, _was filled with clear water_, and on the bottom -were human bones, and what appeared to be a fine sediment――perhaps the -dust of the departed. How the water came there remains a mystery. Some -suppose it had percolated through the rocks above; but this will hardly -account for the equally remarkable fact that the other sarcophagi are -dry. Neither inscription nor symbol had been discovered revealing the -name and history of the dead, and I was left to the reflection that I -was gazing upon the disorganized forms of those who had lived and died -nearly 4000 years ago. Several sarcophagi have been removed to a museum -of antiquities within the city. Male and female figures are sculptured -on them, the faces of the former resembling the facial features of -Nero, and of the latter those of Minerva. Among the relics is a leaden -coffin beautifully moulded with beaded work, flowers, and leonine heads; -and in the “Cabinet of Ancient Coins and Curiosities” are a Phœnician -tear-bottle, gold rings, gold coins of the age of Alexander, a -Crusader’s silver cross which was worn in battle, and many rare jewels -of great intrinsic value. - - - - - CHAPTER XV. - - Mountains of Lebanon. ―― Grand Scenery. ―― Sublime View. ―― - Mountain Traveling. ―― Scriptural Allusions. ―― Cedars of - Lebanon. ―― Their Number, Appearance, and symbolic Character. - ―― Population of the Mountains. ―― Districts and Peculiarities - of the Druzes and Maronites. ―― New Road. ―― Crossing the - Mountains. ―― Plain of the Bukâ’a. ―― Leontes. ―― A swollen - River. ―― Ancient Cities. ―― Imposing Cavalcade. ―― Wives of - the Pasha of Damascus. ―― First View of Damascus. ―― Splendor - and Enjoyments of the Interior of the City. ―― Great Plain - of Damascus. ―― Abana and Pharpar. ―― Scene of St. Paul’s - Conversion. ―― City without Ruins. ―― Antiquity and thrilling - History of Damascus. ―― House of Judas. ―― Home of Ananias. - ―― “Street called Straight.” ―― Naaman’s Palace. ―― Tombs of - the Great. ―― Location of Damascus. ―― Walls and Gates. ―― Old - Castle. ―― Great Mosque. ―― Gardens of Damascus. ―― Commerce - of the City. ―― Curiosities in the Bazars. ―― Population. - ―― Christian Citizens. ―― Origin of the Massacre of 1860. ―― - Its Progress. ―― Terrible Scenes. ―― American Vice-Consul. - ―― Ruins. ―― Sad Results. ―― Defense of the Christians by - Abd-el-Kader. ―― Visit to the Chieftain of Algiers. ―― Our - Reception. ―― Testimonials. ―― His Appearance. ―― Conclusion. - ―― Political History of Palestine. ―― Its Condition under the - Turks. ―― It is now in a Transition State. ―― Possessions of - European Nations. ―― Future of the Holy Land. ―― Christian - Missions. ―― Decline of Mohammedanism. ―― Religious Liberty. - ―― Future Glory. - - -BRANCHES of the ancient Taurus chain, the parallel mountain ranges -of Lebanon and anti-Lebanon, extend from north to south through the -whole length of the Land of Promise. Geologically they consist of a -hard, calcareous, whitish stone, and are disposed in strata variously -inclined. Varying in altitude from 3000 to 13,000 feet above the sea, -and skirted with plains at different points, they continually change -their form and appearance with their levels and situation. Their three -highest summits are Hermon, Sunnîn, and Mukhmel. The first is 10,000 -feet high, the second 11,000, the third 13,000. Their surface is -generally smooth, bare, and rounded, but in sections it is broken and -rugged, resembling huge piles of rocks, not unlike, in form, the ruins -of towns and castles. They abound in springs, which, together with -the melting snows covering their higher portions, form torrents, that -descend to the plains on either side, refreshing the parched fields, -and imparting an air of liveliness to the scene. Both their sides and -summits are dotted with forests and groves of oak, fir, larch, box, -laurel, myrtle, and cedar-trees; and, though the soil is scanty, the -industrious peasants have planted vineyards on artificial terraces -which yield the most delicious wines. In the region about the great -Valley of Kadîsha are vast mulberry groves, the leaves of which serve -as food for the silk-worm, and the villagers in that section are -chiefly employed in the production of silk in its raw state. - -In crossing the Lebanons the traveler meets with scenes in which Nature -displays beauty or grandeur, sometimes romantic wildness, but always -variety. The sublime elevation and steep ascent of this magnificent -rampart, which seems to inclose the country, and the gigantic masses -which shoot into the clouds, inspire him with astonishment and -reverence. At times he seems to be traveling in the middle regions -of the atmosphere; above him the sky is clear and serene, below him -the thick clouds are dissolving into rain and watering the plains. On -gaining the loftier peaks, he is filled with delight by the immensity -of space which expands around him, and which becomes a fresh subject -of admiration. On every side he beholds a horizon without bounds, while -in clear weather the sight is lost over the desert, extending to the -Persian Gulf, and over the Mediterranean, the waters of which wash -the shores of Europe. Apparently his view commands the world; and the -wandering eye, surveying the successive chains of mountains, transports -the mind in an instant from Antioch to Jerusalem. Approaching nearer -objects, he observes the white coast of the “Great Sea” on the west, -with a boundless expanse of water beyond, and examines with greater -minuteness the rocks, the woods, the torrents, the sloping sides of the -hills, the villages and towns around him, and exults at the diminution -of objects which formerly appeared so great. He sees the valleys -obscured by storm-clouds with fresh delight, and smiles at hearing -the thunder muttering beneath his feet. The once threatening summits -now appear like the furrows of a plowed field or the steps of an -amphitheatre, and he feels himself gratified by an elevation above so -many lofty objects, on which he now looks down with inward satisfaction. - -On penetrating into the interior districts of these mountains, the -roughness of the roads, the steep descents and precipices, strike him -at first with terror; but the sagacity of the horse he rides, which -can traverse them with safety, soon relieves him, and he calmly surveys -those picturesque scenes that entertain him in quick succession. He -travels whole days together to reach a place which was in sight at -his departure; he winds, descends, skirts hills, and climbs their -precipitous sides, and in this perpetual change it seems as if Nature -herself varied for him at every step the decorations of the scenery. -Sometimes he beholds villages clinging to the steep declivities on -which they are built, and so arranged that the terraces of one row -of houses serve as streets to those above them. Sometimes he espies -the habitation of a recluse standing on a solitary height, or a gray -convent, whose bell awakens the echoes of the Lebanons. At times he -sees a rock perforated by a torrent, and which has become a natural -arch, and another worn perpendicular, resembling a high wall. On the -hill-sides he passes beds of stones, uncovered and detached by the -waters, rising up like artificial ruins; and in many places, where the -waters meet with inclined beds, the intermediate earth has been washed -away, leaving immense caverns, or subterranean channels have been -formed, through which rivulets flow the year round.[668] - -In traversing the Lebanons, the traveler is impressed with the accuracy -of the allusions of the inspired writers to these wonderful mountains. -Such was their fame in the days of Moses that he earnestly prayed, “Let -me go over and see the good land that is beyond Jordan, that goodly -mountain, and Lebanon.”[669] Considered wild and dreary, the seat of -storm and tempest, Lebanon was the type of national desolation in the -mind of the prophet; and regarding its restoration to fertility as -the symbol of returning national prosperity, he asks the significant -question, “Is it not a very little while, and Lebanon shall be turned -into a fruitful field, and the fruitful field shall be esteemed as a -forest?”[670] Always regarded a strong barrier to the Land of Promise, -and opposing an almost insuperable obstacle to the movements of -chariots of war, it was the arrogant boast of Sennacherib, “By the -multitude of my chariots am I come up to the height of the mountains, -to the sides of Lebanon; and I will cut down the tall cedars thereof, -and the choice fir-trees thereof; and I will enter into the height of -his border, and the forest of his Carmel.”[671] As of old, so now, the -less inhabited portions of the range are the chosen haunts of beasts of -prey, to which the prophet thus alludes: “The violence of Lebanon shall -cover thee, and the spoil of beasts, which made them afraid, because of -men’s blood, and for the violence of the land, of the city, and of all -that dwell therein;”[672] and to such ferocious animals that roam on -its summits and lodge in its thickets, and occasionally descend to the -plain in quest of prey, Solomon refers, in that animated invitation to -his spouse, “Come with me from Lebanon, my spouse, with me from Lebanon; -look from the top of Amana, from the top of Shenir and Hermon, from -the lions’ dens, from the mountains of the leopards.”[673] In allusion -to the fragrant odors wafted from the aromatic plants growing upon -its sides, the poet apostrophizes the same imaginary being in these -elegant words: “And the smell of thy garments is like the smell of -Lebanon.”[674] The large vineyards which adorn the terraced sides of -the mountains produce wines of great richness and choice flavor; they -are of a beautiful color, and so oily that they adhere to the glass. -It was to their reviving effect and odor that Hosea refers: “They -that dwell under his shadow shall return; they shall revive as the -corn, and grow as the vine; the scent thereof shall be as the wine -of Lebanon.”[675] The rapid growth of the Christian Church, her great -extent, and the countless number of her converts, was announced in -the no less sublime than truthful figure, “There shall be a handful -of corn in the earth upon the tops of the mountains; the fruit thereof -shall shake like Lebanon.”[676] The stupendous size, the extensive -range, and great elevation of Lebanon; its towering summits capped with -perpetual snow or crowned with fragrant cedars; its olive plantations; -its vineyards, producing the most delicious wines; its clear fountains -and cold-flowing brooks; its fertile vales and odoriferous shrubberies, -combine to form, in Scripture language, “the glory of Lebanon.” In -preintimating the conversion of the Gentiles from their idolatry and -corruption to the purity and blessings of Christianity, Isaiah employs -the majestic figure, “The wilderness and the solitary place shall be -glad for them; and the desert shall rejoice, and blossom as the rose. -It shall blossom abundantly, and rejoice, even with joy and singing; -the glory of Lebanon shall be given unto it, the excellency of Carmel -and Sharon, they shall see the glory of the Lord, and the excellency of -our God.”[677] - -In all ages the cedar of Lebanon has been regarded as an object -of unrivaled grandeur and beauty in the vegetable kingdom. It is, -accordingly, one of the natural images which occur in the poetical -style of the Hebrew prophets, and is appropriated to denote kings, -princes, and potentates of the highest rank. In the days of Solomon -the cedar forests of Lebanon were extensive, but at present there is -but one known group on all the range. At the head of Wady Kadîsha, in a -vast but secluded recess formed by the loftiest of the Lebanon summits, -and encircled by a region of perpetual snow, is the small remaining -forest of 400 trees of all sizes and ages. The axe of the builder -and the ruthless hands of peasants have done much to reduce the once -grand forests to this small clump of trees, to preserve which the -mountains seem to have gathered round, covering them from the gaze of -the destroyer. Their solitude strangely affected me; they stand alone, -without another tree in sight or a patch of verdure on the surrounding -acclivities. They cover the sides and summits of a pretty knoll, which -is at the northeastern end of a recess eight miles in diameter, in the -central ridge of Lebanon. The encircling summits are the highest in -Syria, and streaked with perpetual snow. They are white and rounded, -and their sides descend in naked, uniform slopes in the form of a -semicircle. Some of the trees are in the vigor of their growth, others -are gnarled and venerable. In form they are perfect images of grace and -majesty. They are tall and straight, with fanlike branches, contracting -like a cone toward the top. The shag-bark is coarse and heavy; the -leaves are small, narrow, rough, exceedingly green, of a sombre hue, -and arranged in tufts along the branches; they shoot in spring, and -fall in early winter; the cones resemble those of the pine. From the -full-grown trees a fluid trickles naturally and without incision; it is -clear, transparent, whitish, and, after a time, dries and hardens. In -most cases the branches shoot out horizontally from the parent trunk, -forming beautiful pyramidal circles. On the summit of the knoll are -several aged trees 40 feet in girth, and on the northern side is one -the very image of strength and grandeur; its branches are larger than -the trunks of ordinary trees, and its majestic limbs, stretching out -over a vast area, afford a grateful shade. In the centre of the group -is the patriarch of the grove. Measuring 48 feet in circumference, the -trunk is gnarled, the stronger branches have fallen off, and its once -majestic form bends toward the earth under the weight of many years. -Standing beneath its patriarchal shade, I could but ask, “How old art -thou?” for it seemed to have come down from the days of the ancient -seers. - - Illustration: CEDARS OF LEBANON. - -Pre-eminently the cedars are “sacred” trees. The inspired narrator has -linked them inseparably to many of the grandest events of Bible history. -These are the “trees of the Lord,” the “cedars of Lebanon which he hath -planted;”[678] here is the remnant of that forest from which the timber -was taken for God’s Temple in Jerusalem;[679] these are the inspired -similitudes of grandeur, strength, power, and glory. In denouncing the -judgments of the Lord upon the proud and arrogant, the prophet declares: -“For the day of the Lord of hosts shall be upon every one that is -proud and lofty, and upon every one that is lifted up, and he shall -be brought low; and upon all the cedars of Lebanon that are high and -lifted up, and upon all the oaks of Bashan.”[680] To awaken grateful -emotions in the hearts of the degenerate Jews, Amos reminds them, “Yet -destroyed I the Amorite before them, whose height was like the height -of the cedars;”[681] and, as an illustration of Jehovah’s displeasure -with royal pride, Ezekiel exclaims, “Behold, the Assyrian was a cedar -in Lebanon with fair branches, and with a shadowing shroud, and of a -high stature; and his top was among the thick boughs.”[682] To break -the cedars, and shake the enormous mass on which they grow, are figures -selected by the Psalmist to express the awful majesty and infinite -power of God. “The voice of the Lord is powerful; the voice of the Lord -is full of majesty. The voice of the Lord breaketh the cedars; yea, -the Lord breaketh the cedars of Lebanon.”[683] The forests of the -East, always near the point of ignition under the intense beams of a -vertical sun, are frequently set on fire by the carelessness of those -who have taken shelter in their recesses, and the devouring element -continues its ravages till extensive plantations are consumed. To -such a conflagration the prophet compares the destructive operations -of the Roman armies under Vespasian and Titus against the Jews, when -the nobles and rulers were slaughtered, the city and temple reduced to -ashes, the people either put to the sword or sold into slavery, and the -whole country laid waste. “Open thy doors, O Lebanon, that the fire may -devour thy cedars. Howl, fir-tree, for the cedar is fallen; because the -mighty are spoiled: howl, O ye oaks of Bashan, for the forest of the -vintage is come down.”[684] And as the noblest of trees, and the most -perfect symbol of prosperity when in their prime, they contain the -significance of the precious promise, “The righteous shall flourish -like the palm-tree; he shall grow like a cedar in Lebanon.”[685] - -The population of Lebanon is generally estimated at 400,000 souls, -residing in more than 600 towns, villages, and hamlets. The inhabitants -are designated according to their religious faith, and are known as -Moslems, Jews, Greeks, Latins, Armenians, Maronites, and Druzes. Though -the Mohammedans are in power, they are not the ruling class in these -mountain regions. The Maronites and Druzes form the chief part of the -population, and are the hereditary and inveterate foes of each other. -The former occupy chiefly Lebanon, and number about 200,000. They -derive their sectarian name from John Maron, a monk, who was the great -apostle of the Monothelitic heresy in the seventh century, and who died -in 701 A.D. Renouncing their Monothelitism in 1180, they submitted to -the Pope, and are now devoted to the See of Rome. Though residing in -villages from Nazareth to Aleppo, their strong-hold is in the district -of Kesrawân; and their patriarch, who receives his robe of investiture -from Rome, resides in the convent of Kanobîn, in the romantic glen -of Kadîsha, near the cedars. They have 82 convents, in which are -2000 monks and nuns, who have a revenue of $350,000 per annum. Though -brave, independent, and industrious, the Maronites are illiterate and -superstitious, and are subject to the dictation of their clergy in all -matters of religion and politics. - -The Druzes occupy the southern half of Lebanon, extending over to Mount -Hermon, and out into the Hauran. They are the descendants of Arabs who -came from the eastern confines of Syria about 900 years ago, and now -number 100,000. They believe in the unity of God; the transmigration of -souls; in the ministry of Hâkim; in the mutual obligation of veracity -and protection; and in the renunciation of all other religions, and -their separation from those in error. Their peculiar doctrines were -first propagated in Egypt by the notorious Hâkim, third of the Fatimite -dynasty, who asserted that the Deity resided in Aly. In 1017 A.D. the -error of the Fatimite was embraced by a Persian by the name of Mohammed -Ben-Ismail ed-Derazy, who settled in Egypt, but who, having excited the -displeasure of the Egyptians by his fanaticism, was compelled to fly to -the base of Mount Hermon, where he became the founder of the Druzes. At -a later period, Hamza, a Persian, asserted that Hâkim was the expected -Messiah, who is to reign triumphant over all the earth. Secret and -exclusive in their worship, the sect is divided into two classes, the -“initiated” and the “ignorant.” Absolute privacy being their object, -their temples of devotion are in remote but conspicuous places――most -of them on the summits of hills. Professedly religious, they are, -nevertheless, a political body, and aim at the conquest of Syria. They -are thoroughly organized. Their whole country is divided into districts. -In each district a weekly council is held, and, by means of delegates, -constant communication is maintained between the different branches of -their community. In peace the Druzes are industrious and hospitable; -in war, daring and ferocious. In their mountain homes they are readily -distinguished from all other sects by their trim beards, and their -neatly-folded turbans of spotless white.[686] - -Thanks to the civilization of the West, and especially to French -enterprise, a Macadamized road has been constructed from Beirût to -Damascus. It is a noble highway, 16 feet wide, with deep water-drains -on each side, and with drains, bridges, and buttresses of substantial -mason-work. Regarding bad roads as barriers to the advance of an -invading army, but forgetting that such also impede the retreat of -their own forces, the Turks are the enemies of good roads. And although -the antiquary, with the Turk, may deprecate the destruction of the -camel-route which had been the great highway from Damascus to the sea -since the days of Abraham, yet the interests of commerce and religion -will be promoted by this new and grand turnpike. - -Following the Mediterranean coast from Sidon to Beirût, which is the -commercial emporium of Syria and Palestine, we passed through the busy -streets of the latter town, and, leaving the pine forests and mulberry -groves which environ the city to the west, we began the ascent of -Lebanon. Riding rapidly over the newly-made road, we soon mounted the -western spurs of Lebanon, and at midday reached the summit. The skies -were lowery, and a dense fog hung upon the mountains. At times the -fog was impenetrable, and the muleteers were compelled to call to -each other frequently, and ring the warning bell of their approach. -Turning to the southeast of Wady Hummâna, we began to descend amid wild -and varied scenery. The clouds now were lifted up; the sun shone with -unwonted splendor; and at our feet lay the glorious Plain of the Bukâ’a. -The descent was along the southern side of this magnificent glen, the -upper part of which is nine miles across; the bottom is dotted with -villages, and the rocky sides are sprinkled with pines. The banks are -shelving, and the new road not having been completed to this point, our -horses cautiously picked their way among the rocks. To the north of the -ravine, and on the summit of a lofty spur of the mountain, stand the -ruins of a Druze castle, and to the south of it are a few excavated -tombs. - -Misdirected by a muleteer, our dragoman attempted to cross the Bukâ’a -in a straight line, avoiding a long sweep over the ordinary path; but -the recent rains had flooded the plains to the depth of three feet, -and the Leontes swept by with increased velocity. Fording one branch -of the river in safety, we were compelled to ride for several miles -in water up to our horses’ haunches, and, on reaching the main channel -of the Leontes, we found the banks too steep and the stream too deep -and rapid to ford. Night was upon us, and, as our only alternative, we -rode northward eight miles, and, after crossing four or five bridges, -pursued our journey in the darkness of the hour to the small village -of Mejdel, where, after having been in the saddle fourteen consecutive -hours, we obtained lodgings in the humble cottage of a Maronite -Christian. - -Not far from the town is a hill crowned with the ruins of some -extraordinary but unknown temple, and from its broken walls we obtained -a view of the great Plain of Bukâ’a. The eye followed the mountains on -each side to the northward till lost to view, and southward to where -the chains converge and form the gorge of the Leontes. “The plain is -smooth as a lake, and the artificial mounds which here and there dot -its surface might well pass for islands.” Three miles to the northeast -are the remains of the ancient city of Chalcis, and 25 miles beyond -are the stupendous and splendid ruins of Ba’albek, the Heliopolis of -Antoninus Pius, and the rival of Athens in the grandeur and proportions -of its temples and palaces. - -Mounting our horses, in half an hour we entered the defiles of -anti-Lebanon. Ascending the long but picturesque glen of Wady Harîr, -we met a pompous cavalcade, escorting the wives and female slaves of -the Pasha of Damascus to Beirût. The ladies rode in sedans, the sides -of which were of glass, and which were borne on poles by two mules, one -in front and the other behind. The chief ladies were in the maturity -of womanhood, and their countenances were exceedingly fair. They were -attired in the most costly manner, and over their faces were drawn thin -white veils. In the sedans which followed were beautiful Circassian -girls, and behind them came Nubian girls, remarkable only for their -blackness. All seemed happy, and each returned our salutation with -exquisite grace. The eunuchs were mounted on magnificent Arabian horses, -elegantly caparisoned, and the Turkish cavalry, well mounted, and each -bearing a long lance, appeared proud and vigilant. - -On leaving Wady Harîr we ascended a ridge of gray hills, and were -soon on the desert plateau of Sahl Judeideh. In all my wanderings in -Arabia and Palestine, I had seen nothing to exceed the sterility and -forbidding aspect of this upland plain. But, as Nature loves contrasts, -the bleak hills and plains of Judeideh only enhance, by way of contrast, -the glorious Plain of El-Merj, on which Damascus stands. Reaching the -summit of the ridge, the city of Eliezer and Naaman lay before me, -embowered in gardens of vast extent and of the most enchanting beauty. -Beholding it for myself, I could no longer wonder at the sublime -encomiums which Arabian writers and modern travelers have pronounced -upon this entrancing prospect. On a magnificent plain, bounded by lofty -mountains, are gardens of olive, apricot, pomegranate, cypress, poplar, -willow, walnut, lemon, and orange trees, covering an area of 30 miles -in circuit, from the midst of which rise tapering minarets, swelling -domes, castellated towers, and white-roofed palaces, the abodes of -merchant princes. It is this half-opened and half-secluded view of -the city that gives power and charm to the vision. Now you see a -golden crescent peering above the bright green foliage, sparkling in -the sunlight like a diamond in a circlet of emeralds; now appears a -half-ruined castle through an opening glade of cypresses and walnuts; -and again is seen the white dome of an ancient mosque, embowered with -stately palms and gracefully drooping willows. - -Unlike other Oriental cities, Damascus retains the charm of her beauty -even when seen from within. There is a fascination in her sparkling -fountains and golden-flowing Abana, meandering amid bright oleanders -and tall poplars, and breaking ever and anon into dashing cascades; -in her marble palaces, with mosaic walls and arabesque ceilings, and -splendid mosques, where the khalifs of a thousand years have worshiped; -and in her long, rich bazars, where are seen the shawls of Cashmere, -the carpets of Persia, the silks of the East, and her own Damascus -blades, jeweled daggers, and gold-embroidered robes. - -The great plain on which Damascus stands is 21 miles wide, and has -an elevation of 2200 feet above the sea. Triangular in shape, it is -bounded on the northwest by the anti-Lebanon range, which varies in -height from 500 to 1500 feet; along its southwestern border flows the -River Pharpar, beyond which are the Mountains of Haurân, which are -dimly seen upon the horizon; on the east are three lakes, surrounded by -a dense thicket, and bounding the horizon beyond is a range of conical -hills. On this rich plain, covered with vegetation, are over 100 -villages, containing a population of 40,000 souls. The eastern portion -is called El-Merj, while that lying around the city bears the name -of Ghûtah. Its perennial fertility is due to the Abana and Pharpar, -“rivers of Damascus.” The highest sources of the latter are near the -village ’Arny, in a large basin-like glen in Mount Hermon. Enlarged by -several smaller streams near Sa’sa’, its clear waters sweep along in -a deep, narrow bed, confined on one side by a rugged wall of volcanic -rock, and on the other by cliffs of limestone. At first a small, -lively stream, it increases in volume as it flows eastward, and, after -meandering through rich meadows, it enters the southern of the three -lakes, not far from the town of Heijâny. The Abana rises in a high -plain south of Zebedâny, on anti-Lebanon. The head of the stream is -called Fijeh, and is one of the largest and most beautiful fountains in -Syria. Bursting forth from a narrow cave, it leaps, foams, and roars as -it descends to a confluence with other streams, when at once it becomes -a rapid torrent 30 feet wide and four deep. Cutting its way through the -mountain, its channel widens and deepens, and from its bed rise cliffs -1000 feet high, and white almost as the snow of Hermon. Rushing in a -southeasterly direction down the mountain, and issuing upon the plain -through a wild chasm, it turns eastward, and, flowing along the north -wall of Damascus, takes its way across the plain to the two northern -lakes. Whether we consider the beautiful blue tinge of its waters, or -their deliciousness, or their fertilizing power, or the sylvan lakes -and pretty cascades they form, the Abana is deservedly the most -celebrated of Syrian rivers. To secure the advantages to be derived -from such a deep, broad stream, its waters are diverted from its -channel through not less than nine canals for the supply of the city -and the irrigation of the plain. - -Somewhere on this plain, to the southeast of the city, occurred -two great events――the meeting of Hazael and the Prophet Elisha,[687] -and the conversion of St. Paul.[688] Elisha came from Palestine, -and, when near Damascus, Hazael met him with a present from Benhadad, -the then reigning king, who was lying dangerously ill. Ambitious and -unscrupulous, Hazael returned to his royal master with the prophetic -promise of recovery; but, taking advantage of the king’s debility, -Hazael murdered Benhadad and mounted the throne of Syria. - -Nearly a thousand years later, and perhaps upon the same spot, -occurred the other and grander event. On leaving Jerusalem, Saul of -Tarsus pursued the ancient caravan track to the capital of Syria. -Having passed in his journey the most renowned cities in Palestine, and -the scenes of the most important events in the history of Christ, he at -length drew near to Damascus. It was while his heart swelled with pride -and hope at the prospect of the speedy consummation of his terrible -mission that “suddenly there shined round about him a light from heaven, -above the brightness of the sun,” and he “heard a voice saying unto -him, Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou me?” Though it is not possible -to identify the exact spot where he fell to the ground, the features of -the landscape remain unchanged. There now, as then, the white dome of -Hermon is on the south; the bare ridge of anti-Lebanon is on the north; -while to the east are the gardens, the domes, and towers of Damascus. -Now, as then, the sky is cloudless, and a Syrian sun shines in his -strength; and now, as then, the peasant in the same field drives his -oxen with sharp goads, which illustrate, if they did not suggest, the -words of Jesus, “It is hard for thee to kick against the pricks.” - -Damascus is too old to have ruins. She has outlived Nineveh, and -Babylon, and Thebes, and Palmyra, and Ba’albek, and Greece, and Rome, -and, retaining the freshness of her youth, seems destined to live -throughout all time. Though successively the prize of the Persian, the -Greek, the Roman, the Saracen, the Christian, and now of the Turk, yet -by some mysterious law she has resisted the changes of fortune incident -to the change of rulers, and, prospering under each dynasty, she is -still the greatest commercial city of Asiatic Turkey, carrying on, as -in olden times, an extensive trade with Egypt, Persia, Bagdad, and the -Bedouins of the Eastern desert. - -But her high antiquity and thrilling religious history possess a -peculiar interest. Coming from Southern Mesopotamia, the cradle of our -race, across the Syrian desert, the great grandchildren of Noah settled -on the banks of the Abana. Here, in after years, Abraham found Eliezer, -the faithful steward of his household;[689] and in the little town of -Burzeh, near by, the patriarch lived. Here flow the Abana and Pharpar, -which Naaman thought “better than all the waters of Israel;” and here -was the captive home of the little maid, whose simple story about the -Lord’s prophet of Samaria induced the proud Syrian to visit Gilgal -to be “recovered of his leprosy.”[690] Hither came Elijah and Elisha -to reprove kings and anoint their successors;[691] and hither, but -paramount in the grandeur of its results to all other events, came -St. Paul, to receive his sight and obtain the peace of heaven.[692] -Christian affection has preserved the memory of the sites of many of -these events. The house of Judas, where Paul lodged, and the home of -Ananias, who baptized the great apostle of the Gentiles, are still -pointed out with affectionate remembrance. The “street which is called -Straight,” into which the repentant persecutor was led, is correctly -named, being a mile long, and running east and west through the centre -of the town. In the Roman age it was 100 feet wide, and divided into -three avenues by rows of Corinthian columns, with corresponding portals; -but at present neither the gates nor the colonnades remain. To the -south of the city is the gate Kisân, which has been closed for 700 -years. Near this portal is located the scene of St. Paul’s escape, -where, in his own words, “Through a window in a basket was I let down -by the wall and escaped.”[693] In the lapse of time and through the -devastations of war the window is gone, but on the east wall of the -city are several buildings, with projecting windows, from which many -persons were let down during the recent massacre; and to the east of -the wall is the traditional site of Naaman’s palace, on which has been -erected a leper’s hospital, probably for his descendants. - -Though Damascus has survived the mightiest cities of the past, the -vast cemeteries in the environs of the town, crowded with the dead, are -a mournful proof that the countless generations, which from the most -remote ages have dwelt within her gates and reclined in her fragrant -gardens, have gone down to their graves. Wandering among the monuments -of those venerable grave-yards, I saw the tombs of three of Mohammed’s -wives; of Fatima, his granddaughter, the unfortunate child of Aly; of -Moawyeh, the founder of the dynasty of the Ommiades; and of Saladîn, -the victor of Hattîn. - -Damascus is built on both banks of the Abana, a mile and a half from -the base of the lowest ridge of anti-Lebanon. It is encompassed with a -wall, exhibiting specimens of the masonry of every age from the Roman -to the present time, and which is penetrated by seven gates occupying -their ancient sites. Of an irregular oval shape, the old city, the -nucleus of the present town, is on the south bank of the river. Here -stands the massive castle, a large quadrangular building 840 feet long -by 600 broad, the foundations of which were laid by the Romans and the -superstructure reared by the Saracens. Through this portion of the city -runs the “street called Straight,” and on its northern side are the -principal buildings――the churches of the Christians, the Khan As’ad -Pasha, and the Great Mosque. The latter structure is the most imposing -and magnificent edifice in Damascus. Built in the form of a quadrangle, -it is 489 feet long by 324 wide. On its northern side is a spacious -court 431 feet long and 125 broad, surrounded by cloisters, with arches -springing from granite and marble columns. The interior is divided -into a nave and aisles, formed by two rows of Corinthian columns. The -floor is of tesselated marble, covered with Persian carpets, and the -walls are incased with mosaics and various colored marbles. Beneath -the transept is a cave, said to contain, in a gold casket, the head of -John the Baptist. From the centre of the transept rises a noble dome, -50 feet in diameter and 120 high, resting on four massive piers. The -exterior is adorned with three minarets, the loftiest of which is -250 feet high. It is generally supposed that this grand mosque stands -on the site of the temple of the god Rimmon, and that here Naaman -deposited the “two mules’ burden of earth” which he had brought from -the Plains of Jericho;[694] and here probably stood that beautiful -altar which excited the admiration of King Ahaz, and which served as -the model for the altar he caused to be constructed in Jerusalem.[695] - -On the opposite bank of the river is a large suburb, the Turkish -quarter of the city, containing the residences of the chief officers -of the government and of the army. To the west are the barracks, and -to the southward is the Meidân, through which runs a broad avenue, the -ordinary route taken by the pilgrim caravan on its way to Mecca. - -The chief resorts of the Damascenes for pleasure are the numerous -and elegant cafés, several of which are on the banks of the Abana. -Here platforms are erected over the foaming waters, shaded by willows, -poplars, palms, and cypresses. At night a thousand miniature lamps of -varied forms and colors glimmer among the branches of the trees and -are reflected in the river below, while turbaned Turks while away the -hours sipping delicious Mocha coffee from thimble-sized cups, whiffing -the best Stamboul tobacco-smoke through ornamented chibouks, humming -some monotone chant, or listening to the recital of some Oriental tale -of love, prodigality, or war. Damascus is at once a commercial and -manufacturing city. The principal articles manufactured are silks, -woolen and cotton cloths, gold and silver ornaments, confections, -nargilies, boots, shoes, slippers, and pattens worn by the belles -of the town. The bazars are usually filled with articles of home -manufacture, and those imported from Manchester, Birmingham, Lyons, -Paris, Constantinople, Cashmere, and Bagdad. Arranged in open stalls, -the bazars are among the most interesting objects to be seen by the -Occidental. Here he witnesses the activity and trade of the city, and -beholds scenes unlike any thing of the kind to be seen in the West. He -is soothed by the odor of perfumes and spices; his appetite is tempted -by preserved fruits and confectioneries; he is delighted or offended -by the scent of various kinds of tobacco; he is bewildered by the sound -of the hammers of the silversmiths; his curiosity is awakened by the -odd-shaped boots and slippers; and his admiration is excited by costly -diamonds, emeralds, rubies, robes, antique armors, Damascus blades, and -jeweled daggers. - -Previous to the fearful massacre of 1860 the population of Damascus -numbered 150,000 souls. Of these, 129,000 were Moslems, 6000 Jews, -and 15,000 Christians; but the murders, captivities, and dispersions -incident to that dreadful tragedy have reduced the Christian population -to less than two thirds its original number. The Christians were among -the most wealthy and intelligent citizens; their dwellings and churches -were of the most splendid order, and by their thrift and industry they -had added largely to the revenues of the city. But the fanaticism of -the Moslems culminated in a murderous assault, the results of which are -too well known to the world. The cause was deep-seated and inveterate, -the occasion puerile and trifling. Several Mohammedan and Christian -boys were at play in one of the streets, and the former, evincing the -spirit of persecution, drew the figure of a cross upon the sand, and -then attempted to compel the latter to trample upon it; but, equally -and strongly attached to the religion of their fathers, they resisted, -and a scuffle followed. Learning the cause of the trouble, the parents -of the Christian boys caused the Mohammedan lads to be arrested and -brought before the city judge. It was the torch applied to the magazine. -Indignant and infuriated, the Moslem parents collected their friends, -who proceeded to the Christian Quarter and commenced the terrible -assault. The fathers, sons, and husbands of the Christian families -were absent from their residences, absorbed in the business of their -several callings. The attack was made in mid-afternoon, and in an -hour the whole Moslem population was engaged in the work of death and -destruction. Their religious hatred had been long suppressed, but their -pent-up fury now burst forth like the sudden and violent irruption of -a volcano. The tocsin was sounded, and the followers of the Crescent -hastened to exterminate the adherents of the Cross. Entering their -dwellings, Christian mothers, wives, and daughters were surprised by -their ravishers and murderers, while their husbands, fathers, and sons -were slain in the streets by hundreds while hastening to rescue their -beloved ones. Escaping through windows, and leaping from the roofs of -their dwellings, the Christian women sought refuge in their churches -and monasteries; but, forgetful of the reverence due the sacred -sanctuaries, the Moslems applied the torch, consuming the edifices -and the helpless refugees within them. The flames continued to spread -till a third of the city, and by far the most elegant portion, had been -reduced to ashes. Where the house of a Christian adjoined that of a -Mohammedan, it was torn down rather than fired, lest the ungovernable -flames might consume what had not been doomed to destruction. In -a covered alley not far from “Straight” street, 300 women, the -accomplished wives and daughters of merchant princes, took refuge; but -their merciless persecutors added death to insult, and sabred them on -the spot. The wild Bedouins who chanced to be in the city dispatched -couriers to their companions, who, mounted on their fleet horses, came -as on the wings of the wind to abuse and murder the helpless. - -The third point of attack on that memorably sad day was the residence -of the American Vice-Consul, Dr. Mashaka, one of the most eminent of -Arabic scholars. His ample fortune allowed him to live in princely -style, and his family is the most accomplished I saw in the East. -His daughter was wounded, his son was missing for three days, and the -person of his beautiful and excellent wife was barely rescued from -the licentious and murderous Moslems by the timely interposition of -a female friend. He himself was wounded, and only escaped death by -the heroic behavior of his Mohammedan cawass, and by flight to the -residence of Abd-el-Kader. - -Day after day the work of death and conflagration went on. Magnificent -cathedrals, stately monasteries, and splendid private residences were -reduced to heaps of shapeless ruins. Every where were to be seen broken -fountains, shattered vases, fragments of mosaic pavements, tesselated -marble walls, and arabesque ceilings, with costly furniture strewn -about in utter confusion. Even the small stone house which tradition -had consecrated as the home of the good Ananias suffered from the -torch of persecution. The fine residences of the American missionaries -were consumed, and their large and valuable libraries scattered among -the débris of their homes. In addition to the slain, 500 of the fair -sisters and daughters of those who survived the massacre were carried -to the mountains by the wild Bedouins of the Hauran. Thousands of -Christian families became fugitives, their homes, fortunes, and hopes -forever ruined. The Christian Mission was broken up, and their church, -in which 400 worshipers assembled on the Sabbath in the enjoyment -of a pure faith, was consumed. Bishops, priests, and monks fled, and -Damascus was given over to Mohammed and the Devil. The authorities of -the city connived with the mob, and the government troops joined in the -acts of violence. But there was one humane Mohammedan who attempted to -stay the massacre, and whose home afforded shelter to the defenseless. -Abd-el-Kader, with 300 Algerian soldiers, who had followed their -celebrated chief into exile, stood as a wall of brass against the -fanaticism and fury of the murderers. At the head of his little band, -he drove the mob from places which they had attacked, he pursued those -who were bearing off helpless women, and swore the death of any who -should invade his home to dispatch those who had taken refuge beneath -his roof. Inflexible in purpose as he was invincible in courage, he -himself became the object of their revenge. Undaunted by their threats -and repelling their attacks, he became the enemy of the Moslem, but the -friend and benefactor of the Christian. Great as he is humane, he will -long be remembered with delight by the civilized world. - -It was in the afternoon of the last day I spent in Damascus that -I enjoyed an interview with this distinguished man. After waiting in -the reception-room, which was plainly furnished, while the servant -announced our names, the Emir appeared at the fountain in a spacious -court-yard, and invited us to seats in an elegant apartment, on divans -of embroidered satin. Small cups of Mocha coffee were passed, according -to the invariable etiquette of a Mohammedan house. The conversation, -which had been general, now turned upon the recent massacre, and the -noble part he had acted in the sad drama. His modesty, however, allowed -him to say but little, but he kindly showed us the several national -presents he had received as testimonials of his generous deeds. Greece -had sent him two gold stars, on one of which was a medallion likeness -of King Otho, and on the other were the words, “Thy right hand, O Lord, -is glorified;” Turkey had presented him with two massive silver stars, -bearing the appropriate inscription, “Protection, Zeal, and Fidelity;” -France had conferred on him the “Cross of the Legion of Honor,” -encircled with emeralds and diamonds, and surmounted with a gold crown; -the “Free and Accepted Masons” had bestowed upon him the symbols of -their Order; Sardinia, and Russia, and Austria, and Prussia had honored -him with gold stars set with jewels; and from the United States he had -received a magnificent brace of revolvers, of which he seemed justly -proud. Though thus honored by all these great powers, he had received -no gift of remembrance from England; and when assured by an English -gentleman present that much had been said in his country about a gift, -the Emir quietly replied, “I prefer works to words.” This failure on -the part of England to recognize the magnanimity of this extraordinary -man is inexplicable. By the Turks it is regarded as an acquiescence -in the fearful slaughter. This is unjust; the cause, however, is to -be found in her truckling policy toward the Turkish empire, and in -her unwillingness to offend the religious sensibilities of the inhuman -Moslem. Abd-el-Kader is now in the prime of life, of full habit, -above the medium height, with a full face, large head, high, rounded -brow, eyes large, black, and lustrous, beard slight and dark, and the -expression of his countenance, when in repose, is that of benevolence -and kindliness; but the peculiar shape of his mouth, together with -his general air, indicate decision, courage, and the capacity of -being, when circumstances demand, impetuous and even desperate. He -is celebrated for the terrible battles he fought with the French in -Algiers, and at present is confined within the limits of Damascus as -their prisoner of war. The protection he extended to the Christians has -rendered him unpopular with the Moslems of the city of his exile, and -he desires another more congenial with his tastes and sentiments. He is -a devout Mohammedan, but, were he a Christian, what a splendid leader -he would make to unite and lead the Syrian Christians to victory! - - - CONCLUSION. - -Some master-mind is yet to write the political history of the -Holy Land from the conquest of Titus to the death of the late Sultan -Abd-ul-Medjid. Such a history would bring to light crusades the most -chivalrous and ruinous, political schemes the most ambitious and -degrading, and religious systems the most fanatical and corrupting -the world has ever known. Such a work would advance the science of -government and the higher purposes of Christianity; it would be the -echo of the prophetic voice uttered centuries ago, and furnish an -unanswerable argument that the present physical and moral condition -of the Land of Promise is the result of misrule, and of a stupendous -system of oppression, extortion, and fanaticism. It would especially -prove the undeniable fact that the Turk is the enemy of good government, -of national greatness, of social and intellectual refinement, of -domestic and individual purity, and demonstrate beyond dispute that the -reign of the Turk is the reign of ruin. Suited best to the excitement -of battle, and to the plunder and murder of the vanquished, in times of -peace the unrestrained passions of the Turk drive him to vices no less -destructive of himself than they are blighting to civilized society. In -the camp and on the field he has always prospered; but when unimpelled -by the excitement of war, his vigor has disappeared, and he has been a -leech on the body politic, and a drone in community. Whether in Europe, -Asia, or Africa, he has run a regular course of rapid attainment of -power by bloody and devastating wars, and then as regularly declined -from the moment when, as conqueror, he sat down to reap the fruits of -victory. The Turk and Islam are identical; the former is the embodiment -of the latter, and the latter is exterminating to all who refuse -submission to the sway of the False Prophet, and annihilating to every -thing which does not subserve the ends of his religion. No country -has risen to greatness under his power; and those which were great -in national resources, in splendor of architecture, in the wealth of -agriculture, and in the superiority of art and science, have dwindled -into insignificance, or utterly perished under his deteriorating -influence. - -Palestine is a deplorable instance of national wretchedness, to -which one of the fairest lands upon the face of the globe has been -reduced since the reign of the Islamitic Turk. From the Arab invasion -in 633 A.D., headed by the famous generals Khâled and Abu Obeidah, -to the present time, the cultivation of the soil has been neglected, -commerce diminishing, and government perverted to the worst of purposes. -Sixteen years subsequent to that invasion the Crescent was the ensign -of dominion from the shores of the Atlantic to the confines of India. -Of the then nine flourishing cities in Syria, Damascus alone retains -its earlier grandeur, and this only in part, as in the conflagration -and massacre of 1860 a third of its most magnificent edifices were -destroyed, and 15,000 of its noblest citizens slain, captured, or -dispersed. Led by the heroic Godfrey, the Crusaders in 1099 A.D. -recovered the much-abused land from the neglect and cruelty of the Turk, -and for three quarters of a century the Land of Promise was restored to -comparative prosperity. Under those Christian rulers the resources of -the country were developed to an astonishing degree; the fleets of Pisa, -Genoa, and Venice traded along its shores, and populous cities sprung -up as if by magic. But in 1187 the battle of Kurûm Hattîn decided the -fate of the Crusaders. Jerusalem was retaken by Saladîn; the Franks -were expelled from Palestine; and four years thereafter the celebrated -Melek-ed-Dhâher replaced all Syria under the domination of the Turks, -and thenceforward to the present time the Holy Land has been the -prey of Mohammedan adventurers, and is now a dependency to the Porte, -divided into three pashalics. - -Six centuries prove that the Moslem is neither the fosterer of the fine -arts nor the promoter of agriculture, commerce, manufactures, or public -works of any kind. When, in the 12th century, the Christians were -expelled, the large and fertile plains of Sharon, Phœnicia, Esdraelon, -and Mukhnah were fruitful fields yielding golden harvests, the reward -of honest husbandry; but now those plains are the camping-grounds of -the wandering Arab, where he feeds his flocks _ad libitum_, and then, -mounting his fleet horse, scours the adjoining country in search of -plunder. The Crusaders left to their conquerors large and flourishing -maritime cities, with a lucrative commerce with Europe and the Levant; -but, under the dominion of the Turks, those commercial towns are poor -and filthy, without harbors, without vessels, without mariners, without -trade. The Koran, forbidding the “making of any thing like unto that -which is in heaven above or in the earth beneath,” has not only left -Syria without a picture and without a statue, but has also led to the -wanton destruction of the splendid edifices of mediæval times. The -knights of that period rivaled the Romans, and even Herod the Great, -in the erection of costly temples, palaces, and churches. In Jerusalem, -Ramleh, Ludd, Beeroth, Bethel, Samaria, ’Akka, Tyre, Sidon, and -especially in Athlît――the _Castellum Peregrinorum_ of the defenders of -the Cross, were structures worthy to adorn any age; but, content with -a shade-tree under which to whiff his nargily, and an ill-formed hovel -for the accommodation of his many wives, the Moslem has allowed those -magnificent buildings to crumble to ruins, or has ruthlessly destroyed -them. With one or two exceptions, the celebrated edifices which -remain are the work of other hands. The great mosque in Damascus -was originally a Christian church, erected by Arcadius, the son of -Theodosius, and dedicated to John the Baptist; the Mosque of El-Aksa, -in Jerusalem, was once a church, built by order of the Emperor -Justinian, and dedicated to “My Lady,” the Virgin Mary; and the mosque -covering the cave of Machpelah was also a Christian temple. Excepting -the Mosque of Omar, the Mohammedans have scarcely a structure of any -importance of their own erection in the Holy Land, and, unlike the -descendants of the Greeks and Romans, the posterity of the Turks will -never sit amid the splendid ruins of ancestral greatness. - -Palestine is now in a transition state, and there are indications that -great political and moral changes are at hand. Numbering in all more -than a million and a half, the present inhabitants are a mixed race, -the several portions of which are designated by their religion rather -than by their nationality. Their religious appellations are party -names, and are the symbols of power, fear, or reproach, according to -the comparative strength of the different parties. Three of the most -numerous of the sects represent three great powers――France, Russia, -and Turkey, and by intrigue, bribery, and fanaticism, will inevitably -involve those mighty nations in a bloody strife for the possession of -the Holy Land. Palestine seems destined to be again contended for by -the nations of Western Europe, and the Plain of Esdraelon may once more -become the battle-field of nations. At present most of these powers -have landed possessions there, and are annually making new purchases. -On Mount Akra, to the southwest of the Holy City, the Russians have -inclosed a large area with high, strong walls; within is a monastery, -which in time of war will serve all the purposes of a fortress, and to -the inclosure they have given the name of “New Jerusalem.” Prussia has -a large hospice within the city, and also several flourishing religious -and literary institutions. The French hold possession of the ancient -Church of St. Anne, and have recently purchased the land adjoining it; -they own the large green plat of ground opposite the Church of the Holy -Sepulchre, which was once occupied by the Knights of St. John; they -have bought the old castle in Beirût, and have constructed a noble -Macadamized road from that city to Damascus, and have the right of way -for 49 years. And on Mount Zion England has a consular building, and a -church of which any nation might be justly proud, and by her diplomacy -controls the policy of the Sublime Porte more than any other European -power. - -But, whatever may be the political relations of Palestine in the -future, the great and only hope of her regeneration and elevation -is to be found in her Christian missions. These are established in -Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Joppa, Nablous, Nazareth, Sidon, Beirût, Damascus, -and in several of the larger towns in the Lebanon Mountains. In -Jerusalem the mission is well and thoroughly organized, and is attended -by the happiest results; the numerous schools are in a prosperous -condition, and the places of worship filled with sincere and attentive -listeners. But the Beirût Mission is really doing the greatest work in -evangelizing the land. The Bible has been translated into Arabic, and -is now given to the millions who speak that language. At Abuh, in the -mountains, there is a seminary for the training of native missionaries, -and a college of a high order will soon be opened in Beirût, liberally -endowed by American citizens. - -Smitten with decay, and retiring before the advance of Western -civilization, Mohammedanism is yielding to the superior power of -Christianity. The Crescent, which for so many centuries was the ensign -of the conquering Turk, no longer excites alarm. It was once the -Crescent of the new moon, expanding and brightening till it shone -resplendent on the plains of Asia, the shores of Africa, and the hills -of Europe; but it is now the Crescent of the old moon, contracting and -dim, from the horns of which are slipping the conquering sword of the -Prophet and the diadem of Othman. Demanded by the Christian powers of -the earth, and protected by their armies and navies, religious liberty -in Palestine is offered to the Christian and the Jew. The Land of -Promise has a glorious past, and an equally glorious future awaits to -dawn upon it. Prophecy is big with an exalted destiny, the unfoldings -of which will turn all eyes to the land of sacred song, the cradle of -our religion, and the scene of our Lord’s incarnation. Thrice happy -will be that day when Jerusalem shall be rebuilt and made holy; when -the scattered tribes shall be recalled, and go up to worship in a -temple more magnificent than that of Solomon; and when, from the Plains -of Bethlehem to the snow-capped summits of Mount Hermon, and from the -coasts of Tyre and Sidon to the Mountains of Gilead, light shall arise -out of darkness, and the voice of Christian praise, mingling with the -song of angels, shall be as sincere as it shall be universal. - - - THE END. - - - - - FOOTNOTES. - - - 1 – Num., xxxiv., 2‒12; Ezek., xlvii., 15‒20. - - 2 – Num., xxxiv. - - 3 – 2 Sam., iii., 10. - - 4 – Gen., xv., 18; 2 Sam., viii., 3; 1 Kings, iv., 21‒25. - - 5 – Volney’s Travels. - - 6 – Ex., iii., 17. - - 7 – Ib. - - 8 – Levit., xxvi., 5. - - 9 – Deut., viii., 9. - - 10 – Ib., xi., 10‒12. - - 11 – Ps. lxv., 13; civ., 14, 15. - - 12 – Gibbon’s Rome, vol. i., p. 27. - - 13 – Stanley’s Palestine, p. 121. - - 14 – Olin’s Travels, ii., p. 429. - - 15 – Barclay’s C. G. K., p. 416. - - 16 – Jer., iii., 3, 4. - - 17 – Amos, iv., 7. - - 18 – Barclay, p. 53. - - 19 – See Milman’s note in Gibbon’s Rome, i., p. 27, 28. - - 20 – Josephus, Anti B., b. xv., c. iv. - - 21 – Milman’s note on Gibbon, i., p. 27, 28. - - 22 – Olin’s Travels. - - 23 – Volney’s Travels. - - 24 – Ps. civ., 24, 25. - - 25 – Ps. cvii., 23‒26. - - 26 – Ib., civ., 18. - - 27 – Ib., cxlvii., 16, 17. - - 28 – Ib., lxiii., 1. - - 29 – Isa., xxxii., 2. - - 30 – Gen., xx., 1. - - 31 – Ps. civ., 32. - - 32 – 1 Chron., v., 26. - - 33 – Gen., xlix., 3, 4. - - 34 – Ib., xlix., 19. - - 35 – Hibbard’s Palestine. - - 36 – Gen., xlviii., 19. - - 37 – Gen., xlix., 7; Deut., xxxiii.; Num., i., 23, and xxvi., 14. - - 38 – Gen., xlix., 16, 17. - - 39 – Deut., xxxiii., 22; Judges, xviii., and xvi., 31. - - 40 – Gen., xlix., 8‒12. - - 41 – Ib., xlix., 27. - - 42 – Josh., xviii., 16, 17; 2 Sam., v., 6‒9. - - 43 – Deut., xxxiii., 12. - - 44 – Judges, iii., 15. - - 45 – 1 Sam., ix., 21. - - 46 – 1 Sam., xiv., 1. - - 47 – Esther, ii., 5. - - 48 – Ib., ii., 7. - - 49 – Phil., iii., 5. - - 50 – Hibbard’s Palestine, p. 76, and Clark on Num., xxvi. - - 51 – Gen., xlix., 22. - - 52 – Deut., xxxiii., 17. - - 53 – Gen., xlix., 25. - - 54 – Deut., xxxiii., 13‒17. - - 55 – Gen., xlix., 14, 15. - - 56 – Judges, v., 15. - - 57 – Deut., xxxiii., 18. - - 58 – Gen., xlix., 13. - - 59 – Deut., xxxiii., 19. - - 60 – Napoleon. - - 61 – Gen., xlix., 20. - - 62 – Deut., xxxiii., 24. - - 63 – Hibbard’s Palestine, p. 97. - - 64 – 1 Chron., xii., 36. - - 65 – Deut., xxxiii., 25. - - 66 – Luke, ii., 36. - - 67 – Luke, iv., 26. - - 68 – Bochart’s translation. - - 69 – Deut., xxxiii., 23. - - 70 – Matt., iv., 13. - - 71 – Ps. cxxv., 2. - - 72 – Stanley’s Palestine, p. 174. - - 73 – Ps. xlviii., 12, 13. - - 74 – 1 Pet., ii., 6. - - 75 – Ps. cxliv., 12. - - 76 – Isa., xxviii., 16. - - 77 – Matt., iv., 5, 6. - - 78 – Anti B., xv., c. xi.; Robinson’s B. R., i., p. 290. - - 79 – Mark, xiii., 2. - - 80 – Robinson’s B. R., i., p. 287. - - 81 – Barclay’s C. G. K., p. 459. - - 82 – 1 Kings, vi., 7. - - 83 – Neh., ii., 13. - - 84 – Jer., xix., 2. - - 85 – 2 Kings, xi., 16‒19. - - 86 – Ib., xxv., 4. - - 87 – Jer., xxxviii., 7‒13. - - 88 – Luke, xxii., 55. - - 89 – Book v., chap. iv., p. 528. - - 90 – Jer., xxvi., 18. - - 91 – Josephus, B. J., b. v., c. iv., p. 3. - - 92 – Luke, xxii., 12. - - 93 – John, xiii., 12. - - 94 – Ib., xx., 19. - - 95 – John, xx., 25. - - 96 – Acts, ii., 1. - - 97 – Acts, ii., 2‒39. - - 98 – Neh., ii., 3. - - 99 – Ib., iii., 16. - - 100 – Anti B., vii., c. xv., s. 3. - - 101 – Ib. - - 102 – Josephus, anti B., xvi., c. vii., s. 1. - - 103 – Acts, ii., 29. - - 104 – Barclay’s City of the Great King, p. 214, 215. - - 105 – 2 Kings, v., 12. - - 106 – Ib., v., 27. - - 107 – Ib., xv., 5. - - 108 – Anti B., xv., c. xi., s. 3. - - 109 – B. J., b. v., c. v., s. 8. - - 110 – Acts, iv., 6. - - 111 – Ib., v., 34. - - 112 – Isa., lxvi., 9‒12. - - 113 – Ps. lxxix., 1‒5. - - 114 – Anti B., xv., c. xv., s. 3. - - 115 – Luke, xix., 44. - - 116 – Wars of the Jews, b. vii., c. i. - - 117 – Wars of the Jews, b. vi., c. vi. - - 118 – Antiquities of the Jews, b. xiv., c. iv. - - 119 – 1 Kings, x., 5. - - 120 – Antiquities, b. xv., c. xi. - - 121 – John, xix., 5. - - 122 – 71,000 were slain. - - 123 – Robinson’s B. R., vol. i., p. 298‒300. - - 124 – Gen., xxii., 9. - - 125 – 1 Chron., xxi., 15‒20. - - 126 – Ib., xxi., 21‒27. - - 127 – 2 Chron., iv., 1. - - 128 – Robinson’s B. R., vol. i., p. 299. - - 129 – Josephus, anti B., xv., c. xv., s. 3. - - 130 – Barclay’s City of the Great King, p. 525. - - 131 – Josephus, W. J., b. vi., c. iii., s. 4; - Robinson’s B. R., vol. i., p. 364‒405. - - 132 – Stanley. - - 133 – Gen., xxiii., 4. - - 134 – Matt., xxiii., 27. - - 135 – Dr. Barclay. - - 136 – Porter. - - 137 – 2 Sam., xviii., 18. - - 138 – 2 Chron., xxi., 1. - - 139 – Joel, iii., 2. - - 140 – 2 Chron., xxiv., 21. - - 141 – Matt., xxiii., 35. - - 142 – Matt., xxiii., 27. - - 143 – Ecc., xii., 5. - - 144 – Matt., ix., 23. - - 145 – Ps. lvi., 8. - - 146 – 1 Kings, xi., 4‒8. - - 147 – Neh., ii., 14. - - 148 – 2 Sam., xviii., 18. - - 149 – Ex., xv., 20, 21. - - 150 – Isa., viii., 6, 7. - - 151 – Neh., iii., 15. - - 152 – John, ix., 1‒7. - - 153 – Ib., v., 7. - - 154 – Josh., xv., 7. - - 155 – Maccabees, i., 19, 22. - - 156 – Josh., xv., 7. - - 157 – 2 Sam., xvii., 17. - - 158 – 1 Kings, i., 9. - - 159 – Josh., xv., 8. - - 160 – Jer., vii., 31. - - 161 – Ib., vii., 32. - - 162 – 2 Kings, xxiii., 10. - - 163 – Josephus, W. J., b. vi., c. viii., s. 5. - - 164 – Josephus, W. J., b. v., c. xiii., s. 7. - - 165 – Mark, ix., 44. - - 166 – Matt., xxvii., 4‒10. - - 167 – Ib., xxvii., 5. - - 168 – 1 Kings, i., 40. - - 169 – 2 Chron., xxxii., 30. - - 170 – Isa., vii., 3. - - 171 – Ib., xxxvi., 2‒10. - - 172 – 2 Kings, xx., 20. - - 173 – 2 Chron., xxxii., 30. - - 174 – 2 Chron., xxxii., 3‒4. - - 175 – Eccl., ii. - - 176 – Gen., xxi., 25. - - 177 – Num., xx., 19. - - 178 – 1 Sam., xxv., 11. - - 179 – Prov., v., 15. - - 180 – John, iv., 14. - - 181 – Study of Words, p. 13. - - 182 – Robinson. - - 183 – Lazarus. - - 184 – John, xi., 31. - - 185 – Luke, x., 38. - - 186 – John, xi., 7. - - 187 – Matt., xxvi., 6. - - 188 – John, xii., 3. - - 189 – Luke, x., 38‒42. - - 190 – John, xi. - - 191 – Mark, xiv., 9. - - 192 – Luke, xviii. and xix. - - 193 – John, xii., 1‒11. - - 194 – Zech., ix., 9. - - 195 – Matt., xxi., 9. - - 196 – Zech., xiv., 4. - - 197 – 2 Sam., xv. and xvi. - - 198 – Num., xix., 2‒10. - - 199 – Ezek., xi., 23. - - 200 – John, xviii., 2. - - 201 – Matt., xxiv., 3‒41. - - 202 – Ib., xxv. - - 203 – John, xviii. - - 204 – Luke, xxiv., 50. - - 205 – Acts, i., 12. - - 206 – 2 Samuel, v., 24. - - 207 – John, xii., 1‒12. - - 208 – Mark, xi., 12‒14. - - 209 – Mark, xi., 15‒17; John, ii., 13‒17. - - 210 – Matt., xxi., 15, 16. - - 211 – Matt., xxi.‒xxvi. - - 212 – Mark, xiv., 10, 11. - - 213 – Matt., xxvi., 20. - - 214 – Mark, xiv., 22‒25. - - 215 – See John, xiii.‒xvii.; Matt., xxvi., 30. - - 216 – Luke, xxiii., 1‒38. - - 217 – This bridge will probably last for 1000 years to come. - - 218 – John, xix., 20. - - 219 – Heb., xii., 12. - - 220 – Luke, xxiii., 26. - - 221 – John, xix., 20. - - 222 – Matt., xxvii., 55. - - 223 – Luke, xxiii., 27. - - 224 – Matt., xxvii., 41‒42. - - 225 – Ib., xxvii., 39‒40. - - 226 – Matt., xxvii., 51. - - 227 – Ib., xxvii., 52. - - 228 – John, xix., 41. - - 229 – Matt., xxvii., 31. - - 230 – Luke, xxiii., 33. - - 231 – John, xix., 20. - - 232 – Ib., xix., 41. - - 233 – Matt., xxviii., 6‒7. - - 234 – Acts, i., 9‒13. - - 235 – Ib., ii., 22. - - 236 – Ib., ii., 8‒11. - - 237 – Ib., ii., 44‒46. - - 238 – Ib., viii., 1. - - 239 – Josephus, B. J., b. vii., c. i. - - 240 – Robinson’s Biblical Researches, vol. i., p. 407‒418. - Barclay’s City of the Great King, p. 219‒238. - - 241 – See Lane’s Egypt. - - 242 – Ex., xii., 1‒20. - - 243 – Luke, xiii., 25. - - 244 – Ex., xii., 4. - - 245 – J. D. Phelps. Esq. - - 246 – Josh., xv., 7. - - 247 – Matt., iv., 1. - - 248 – Luke, x., 30‒37. - - 249 – 1 Kings, xvii., 3‒7. - - 250 – Josh., vii., 21‒26. - - 251 – Num., xxxiii., 47, 48. - - 252 – Josh., ii. - - 253 – Ib., vi., 1‒25. - - 254 – Ib., vi., 26; 1 Kings, xvi., 34. - - 255 – 2 Sam., x., 5. - - 256 – 2 Kings, ii., 5. - - 257 – Ib., ii., 6‒18. - - 258 – Ib., ii., 19‒24. - - 259 – Josephus, anti B., xiii., c. vii., s. 4; - 1 Mac., xvi. 14, 15. - - 260 – Anti B., xv., c. iv. - - 261 – Ib., b. xvii., c. x. - - 262 – Luke, xix.; Mark, x., 46. - - 263 – Anti B., v., c. i., s. 4. - - 264 – Josh., iv., 1‒20. - - 265 – Ib., v., 9. - - 266 – Ib., v., 10. - - 267 – Ib., v., 13‒15. - - 268 – Ib., xviii., 1. - - 269 – 1 Sam., vii., 16; x., 8. - - 270 – Ib., xi., 15. - - 271 – Ib., xiii., 8‒14. - - 272 – 2 Sam., xix., 15. - - 273 – 2 Kings, iv., 38‒41. - - 274 – Ib., v. - - 275 – Deut., xxxiv., 3. - - 276 – 2 Kings, ii., 21. - - 277 – Robinson’s B. R., vol. i., p. 562. - - 278 – B. J., b. iv., c. x., s. 3. - - 279 – Josh., xi., 6‒10. - - 280 – Josh., xii., 2‒5. - - 281 – Gen., xxxii., xxxiii. - - 282 – Judges, vii., 24, 25. - - 283 – Ib., xii., 5, 6. - - 284 – Num., xxii., 41. - - 285 – Ib., xxiii., 14. - - 286 – Ib., xxiii., 28. - - 287 – Num., xxiii., 10. - - 288 – Ib., xxiii., 24. - - 289 – Ib., xxiv., 5. - - 290 – Deut., xxxiv., 1‒3. - - 291 – Ib., xxxiv., 5. - - 292 – Josh., iii., 16. - - 293 – Josh., iii., 16. - - 294 – Ib., iii., 15. - - 295 – 2 Kings, ii. - - 296 – 2 Kings, v., 12. - - 297 – Luke, iii., 3. - - 298 – John, i., 28. - - 299 – Ib., iii., 23. - - 300 – Clark’s Comment. on John, i., 28. - - 301 – Stanley’s Palestine, p. 304, 305. - - 302 – Matt., iii., 1. - - 303 – Ib., iii., 5. - - 304 – Gen., xiii., 10. - - 305 – Gen., xiii., 10. - - 306 – Josephus, b. xviii., c. v. - - 307 – Num., xxii., 36. - - 308 – Judges, xi., 19. - - 309 – Ib., xi., 13. - - 310 – Josh., xiii., 8. - - 311 – 2 Kings, iii., 37. - - 312 – Gen., xix., 17‒20. - - 313 – Ib., xix., 28. - - 314 – 2 Sam., viii., 13. - - 315 – 2 Kings, xiv., 7. - - 316 – Josephus, B. J., b. vii., c. viii. - - 317 – 1 Sam., xxiv., 1‒7. - - 318 – 2 Chron., xx., 1, 2. - - 319 – Species of fragrant grape.――THOMPSON. - - 320 – Cant., i., 14. - - 321 – 1 Sam., xxv., 1‒42. - - 322 – Judges, iv., 19. - - 323 – Josh., xix., 15. - - 324 – Matt., ii., 1. - - 325 – Micah, v., 2. - - 326 – Ib. - - 327 – Gen., xxxv., 18‒20. - - 328 – Ruth, iv., 13. - - 329 – Ib., iv., 17‒22. - - 330 – Luke, ii., 7. - - 331 – Matt., ii., 11. - - 332 – Luke, ii., 7. - - 333 – Anti B., b. xv., c. ix., s. iv.; - B. J., b. i., c. xxi., s. x.; - Ib., b. iv., c. ix., s. v. - - 334 – 2 Sam., xiv., 1‒20. - - 335 – Amos, i., 1. - - 336 – 1 Sam., xxii., 1‒3. - - 337 – 2 Sam., xxiii., 14‒17. - - 338 – Ib., xxii., 3, 4. - - 339 – 1 Sam., xxii., 1. - - 340 – Ib. - - 341 – 1 Chron., xi., 15. - - 342 – Gray. - - 343 – Num., xiii., 22. - - 344 – Gen., xiii., 18. - - 345 – Ib., xiv., 13. - - 346 – Gen., xiv., 14. - - 347 – Ib., xviii. - - 348 – Ib., xix., 28. - - 349 – Ib., xvi., xvii. - - 350 – Ib., xxiii. - - 351 – Ib., xxxv., 29. - - 352 – Ib., l., 13. - - 353 – Josh., xv., 13. - - 354 – 2 Sam., ii., 11. - - 355 – 2 Sam., iv., 12. - - 356 – See Stanley’s Account of the Visit of the Prince of Wales, - Appendix II. to his History of the Jewish Church. - - 357 – Gen., xxi., 33. - - 358 – Ib., xxii., 1‒19. - - 359 – Ib., xxv., 27‒34. - - 360 – Ib., xxviii. - - 361 – Ib., xlvi., 1. - - 362 – 1 Kings, xix., 1‒4. - - 363 – Gen., xviii., 2. - - 364 – Ib., xviii., 4. - - 365 – Ib., xxix., 6. - - 366 – Ib., xviii., 8. - - 367 – Ib., xviii., 9. - - 368 – Num., xiii., 16‒26. - - 369 – Micah, iv., 4. - - 370 – Num., xiii. - - 371 – Matt., xxi., 33. - - 372 – Josh., xv., 58. - - 373 – Gen., xxxv., 16‒20. - - 374 – 2 Sam., v., 24. - - 375 – Deut., ii., 23. - - 376 – Acts, viii., 27‒29. - - 377 – Luke, i., 39. - - 378 – 1 Sam., v. and vi. - - 379 – Judges, xiii., 2. - - 380 – Ib., xiv., 1. - - 381 – Judges, xiv., 5, 6. - - 382 – Ib., xiv., 14. - - 383 – Ib., xv., 4. - - 384 – Ib., xvi., 4. - - 385 – Ib., xvi., 5‒21. - - 386 – 1 Sam., xvii. - - 387 – 1 Sam., xxi., 10‒15. - - 388 – Robinson. - - 389 – Josh., x., 31, 32. - - 390 – 1 Chron., xi., 5‒12. - - 391 – Gen., x., 19. - - 392 – Josh., xiii., 3. - - 393 – Judges, xiii., 1. - - 394 – Judges, xvi., 2‒3. - - 395 – Ib., xvi., 21. - - 396 – Heb., xi., 32. - - 397 – Robinson. - - 398 – Zeph., ii., 4. - - 399 – Zech., ix., 5. - - 400 – 1 Sam., iv., v. - - 401 – 2 Chron., xxvi., 6. - - 402 – Neh., xiii., 23‒26. - - 403 – Acts, viii., 40. - - 404 – Zech., ix., 6. - - 405 – 2 Chron., xxvi., 6. - - 406 – 1 Sam., v., 10‒12. - - 407 – Josh., xix., 46. - - 408 – Acts, ix., 36. - - 409 – Josh., xix., 46. - - 410 – 2 Chr., ii., 16; Ezra, iii., 7. - - 411 – Jonah, i., 3. - - 412 – Acts, ix., 36. - - 413 – Ib., x., 6. - - 414 – Judge. - - 415 – Ruth, xiv., 11. - - 416 – Ex., vii., 12. - - 417 – 1 Chron., viii., 12. - - 418 – Acts, ix., 32. - - 419 – 2 Chron., xxviii., 18. - - 420 – Deut., xxii., 10. - - 421 – Josh., xxi., 22. - - 422 – Josh., x. - - 423 – Inn. - - 424 – Josh., xviii., 25. - - 425 – Ib., xxi., 17. - - 426 – 1 Chron., xvi., 39. - - 427 – 2 Sam., ii., 16. - - 428 – Ib., ii., 17. - - 429 – Ib., xx., 8‒10. - - 430 – 1 Kings, iii., 5‒12. - - 431 – Judges, xx. - - 432 – 1 Sam., vii., 6‒12. - - 433 – 1 Sam., x., 23, 24. - - 434 – 2 Kings, xxv., 25. - - 435 – 1 Sam., xi., 4. - - 436 – Judges, xix. and xx. - - 437 – 1 Sam., ix., 1, 2. - - 438 – Ib., x., 26. - - 439 – 1 Sam., xi. - - 440 – Ib., xiv. - - 441 – Ib., xvi. - - 442 – Ib., xviii. - - 443 – Ib., xix. - - 444 – Ib., xxv. - - 445 – Ib., xxxi. - - 446 – 2 Sam., xxi., 1. - - 447 – Ib., xxi., 8. - - 448 – 2 Sam., xxi. - - 449 – Matt., xii. - - 450 – 1 Sam., xxii. - - 451 – 1 Kings, ii. - - 452 – 1 Sam., xiii. - - 453 – Ib. - - 454 – Gen., xxv. - - 455 – Ezek., ix., 2. - - 456 – John, x., 3. - - 457 – Gen., xii., 8. - - 458 – Ib., xiii., 10‒14. - - 459 – Mark, ii., 9. - - 460 – Gen., xxviii. - - 461 – Ib., xxxv. - - 462 – 1 Sam., vii. - - 463 – 1 Kings, xiii. - - 464 – 2 Kings, ii. - - 465 – Ib., xxiii. - - 466 – Amos, v., 5. - - 467 – Dr. Robinson. - - 468 – Judges, xxi., 19. - - 469 – Josh., xviii. - - 470 – 1 Sam., i., 24; ii., 1‒18. - - 471 – Ib., iv. - - 472 – Judges, xxi. - - 473 – 1 Kings, xiv. - - 474 – Jer., vii., 12. - - 475 – Judges, xxi., 19. - - 476 – Gen., xlviii., 20. - - 477 – Gen., xii. - - 478 – Ib., xxxiii. - - 479 – Ib., xxxiv. - - 480 – Ib., xxxvii. - - 481 – Josh., viii. - - 482 – Judges, ix. - - 483 – 1 Kings, xii. - - 484 – 2 Kings, xvii. - - 485 – Deut., xxvii., 11‒26; Ib., xxviii.; Josh., viii., 30‒35. - - 486 – One hundred lambs, or coins with the image of a lamb upon - them. Gen., xxxiii., 19. - - 487 – John, iv., 1‒42. - - 488 – Gen., l., 25. - - 489 – Josh., xxiv., 32. - - 490 – Gen., xlix., 22. - - 491 – Cant., vi., 4. - - 492 – 1 Kings, xvi., 8. - - 493 – 2 Kings, v., 20‒27. - - 494 – Luke, xvii., 11‒13. - - 495 – Ex., xii., 11. - - 496 – Sixty piastres. - - 497 – 1 Kings, xvi., 23, 24. - - 498 – Cant., vi., 4. - - 499 – 1 Kings, xvi., 33. - - 500 – Ib., xx. - - 501 – 2 Kings, vi., 12‒22. - - 502 – 2 Kings, vi., 24‒33; Ib., vii., 1‒20. - - 503 – Acts. viii. - - 504 – Book xvi., p. 316. - - 505 – Micah, i., 6. - - 506 – Hosea, xiii., 16. - - 507 – 1 Chron., xxvii., 29. - - 508 – Isa., lxv., 10. - - 509 – Josephus, A. J., b. xv. - - 510 – Acts, viii. - - 511 – Acts, xxi. - - 512 – Ib., xxiii., xxiv., xxv., and xxvii. - - 513 – A. B., b. xv. - - 514 – Acts, xii. - - 515 – Josephus, A. J., b. xix. - - 516 – Josh., xi. - - 517 – Isa., xxxv., 2. - - 518 – Amos, i., 2. - - 519 – 1 Kings, xviii. - - 520 – 2 Kings, iv. - - 521 – Gen., xlix., 15. - - 522 – Josephus, A. J., b. v. - - 523 – Judges, iv. - - 524 – 2 Chron., xxxv. - - 525 – 1 Sam., xxxi. - - 526 – Ps. lxxxix., 12. - - 527 – Judges, vii., 3. - - 528 – Ib., vii. - - 529 – 1 Sam., xxviii. and xxxi. - - 530 – 1 Sam., xxviii. and xxxi. - - 531 – 1 Kings, xix. and xxii. - - 532 – 2 Kings, iv. - - 533 – Luke, vii. - - 534 – 1 Sam., xxviii. - - 535 – Josh., xix. - - 536 – Judges, iv. - - 537 – Ib., viii. - - 538 – Hosea, v. - - 539 – Ps. lxxxix. - - 540 – Jer., xlvi., 18. - - 541 – Matt., xvii., 1; Mark, ix., 2. - - 542 – Luke, ix., 28. - - 543 – Matt., xvii., 24, and xix., 1. - - 544 – Luke, ix., 37. - - 545 – Luke, iii., 1. - - 546 – Matt., xix., 1. - - 547 – Bashan. - - 548 – Bathanyeh. - - 549 – Jaulân. - - 550 – Porter. - - 551 – Josephus, Antiq., b. xix., c. v., s. 1. - - 552 – Josh., xx., 7. - - 553 – Ib. - - 554 – Isa., ix., 1; Matt., iv., 15. - - 555 – Wars of the Jews, b. iii., c. iii., s. 1. - - 556 – Num., xxxiv., 11; Josh., xix., 35. - - 557 – John, xxi., 1. - - 558 – Ib., vi., 1. - - 559 – Matt., xiv., 34. - - 560 – Matt., xiv. Josephus, Antiq., b. xviii., c. v. - - 561 – Robinson, B. R., vol. ii. - - 562 – John, xxi. - - 563 – Luke, ix., 7‒9. - - 564 – Luke, xxiii., 6-12. - - 565 – W. J., b. iii., c. x. - - 566 – Thomson and Clarke. - - 567 – Matt., viii.; Mark, v.; Luke, viii. - - 568 – Luke, iii. - - 569 – Antiq., b. xviii., c. ii. - - 570 – Ib., c. iv. - - 571 – Matt., xiv., 13. - - 572 – Matt., xiv., 13. - - 573 – Ib., xiii., 21. - - 574 – Mark, vi., 39. - - 575 – Matt., xiv. - - 576 – W. J., b. iii., c. x. - - 577 – Matt., xiv., 34. - - 578 – Luke, v., 1‒3; Mark, iv. - - 579 – Matt., xiii. - - 580 – Matt., xiv., 34; John, vi., 24. - - 581 – B. J., b. iii., ch. x., s. 8. - - 582 – Robinson’s B. R., vol. iii., p. 348. - - 583 – Matt., iv., 13. - - 584 – Ib., ix., 1. - - 585 – Mark, i., 21‒34. - - 586 – Matt., ix., 2‒9. - - 587 – Luke, vii., 1‒10. - - 588 – Mark, v., 22‒43. - - 589 – Matt., xvii., 24‒27. - - 590 – Ib., xiii. - - 591 – Ib., ix. - - 592 – Ib., xv. - - 593 – John, vi., 24. - - 594 – Mark, ix., 33‒50. - - 595 – Matt., xi., 23, 24. - - 596 – Matt., iv., 18‒22. - - 597 – Luke, v. - - 598 – Mark, vi., 32. - - 599 – John, vi., 1. - - 600 – Ib., vi., 17. - - 601 – Matt., xiv., 34, and Mark, vi., 53. - - 602 – John, vi., 24. - - 603 – Mark, iv., 37‒39. - - 604 – Matt., xi., 21, 22. - - 605 – B. J., b. iv., ch. i. - - 606 – Josh., xi., 6‒10. - - 607 – Nephew. - - 608 – Gen., xiv., 14‒16. - - 609 – Judges, xviii. - - 610 – Deut., xxxiii., 22. - - 611 – Judges, xx., 1. - - 612 – Robinson. - - 613 – Josephus, Antiq., b. xv., ch. x., s. 3. - - 614 – Matt., xvi. and xvii.; Mark, viii. and ix. - - 615 – Deut., iii., 9. - - 616 – Ib., iv., 48. - - 617 – Ib., iii., 8. - - 618 – Stanley’s S. and P., 396. - - 619 – Ps. lxxxix., 12. - - 620 – Sion. - - 621 – Ps. cxxxiii., 3. - - 622 – Josephus, B. J., b. i., ch. xvi. - - 623 – Matt., iv. and v. - - 624 – Gibbon’s Rome, vol. vi., c. lix.; - Tytler’s U. H., vol. iv., c. ix.; - Robinson’s B. R., vol. ii., s. xv., p. 372‒377. - - 625 – John, i., 46. - - 626 – Luke, iv., 28, 29. - - 627 – Luke, i. and ii. - - 628 – Ib., iv., 16. - - 629 – Matt., xiii., 55, 56. - - 630 – Luke, iv., 31. - - 631 – Porter. - - 632 – Gen., x., 15. - - 633 – Tytler’s U. H., vol. i., p. 86; Hibbard’s Palestine. - - 634 – John, xxi., 2. - - 635 – Ib., ii., 1‒11. - - 636 – Ib., iv., 46‒54. - - 637 – Gen., xlix., 20; Deut., xxxiii., 24. - - 638 – Judges, v., 17. - - 639 – Judges, i., 31. - - 640 – Acts, xxi., 7. - - 641 – French of ’Akka. - - 642 – Gibbon’s Rome, vol. vi., p. 46, 47. - - 643 – Josh., xix., 29. - - 644 – Isa., xxiii. - - 645 – Josh., xix. - - 646 – 1 Kings, v. - - 647 – Anti B., b. ix., c. xiv. - - 648 – Anti B., b. vii., c. ii., Hiram’s Letter to Solomon. - - 649 – Ib., b. ix., c. xiv. - - 650 – Amos, i., 9. - - 651 – Joel, iii., 4, 5. - - 652 – Ib., iii., 6. - - 653 – Ezek., xxvi., 2. - - 654 – Ezek., xxvi., 21. - - 655 – Ib., xxvi., 12. - - 656 – Ib., xxvi., 14. - - 657 – Acts, xxi., 4. - - 658 – Robinson, vol. ii., p. 470. - - 659 – Gibbon. - - 660 – 1 Kings, xvii. - - 661 – Mark, vii., 24‒30. - - 662 – Gen., x., 19. - - 663 – Ib., x., 15; Josephus, Anti B., b. i., c. vi. - - 664 – Josh., xix., 28. - - 665 – Pope’s Il., b. vi., 360‒370. - - 666 – Isa., xxiii., 12. - - 667 – 1 Kings, v. - - 668 – Volney’s Trav., vol. i.; Paxton’s Illustrations, vol. i. - - 669 – Deut., iii., 25. - - 670 – Isa., xxix., 17. - - 671 – Isa., xxxvii., 24. - - 672 – Hab., ii., 17. - - 673 – Song, iv., 8. - - 674 – Ib., iv., 11. - - 675 – Hosea, xiv., 7. - - 676 – Ps. lxxii., 16. - - 677 – Isa., xxxv., 1, 2. - - 678 – Ps. civ., 16. - - 679 – 1 Kings, v. and vi.; Ezra, iii., 7. - - 680 – Isa., ii., 12, 13. - - 681 – Amos, ii., 9. - - 682 – Ezek., xxxi., 3‒10. - - 683 – Ps. xxix., 4, 5. - - 684 – Zech., xi., 1‒2. - - 685 – Ps., xcii., 12. - - 686 – Porter’s Palestine; Thomson’s Land and the Book, vol. i., - p. 248. - - 687 – 1 Kings, xix., 15; 2 Kings, viii., 7‒15. - - 688 – Acts, ix., 1‒22. - - 689 – Gen., xv., 2. - - 690 – 2 Kings, v., 1‒14. - - 691 – Ib., viii. - - 692 – Acts, ix. - - 693 – 2 Cor., xi., 33. - - 694 – 2 Kings, v., 18. - - 695 – Ib., xvi., 10‒16; Porter’s Five Years in Damascus. - - - - - TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES. - - -The following corrections have been made in the text: - - Page 37: - Sentence starting: Surmounting this corner.... - – ‘assurring’ replaced with ‘assuring’ - (assuring him of the charge) - - Page 40: - Sentence starting: This section of the wall.... - – ‘Pilot’ replaced with ‘Pilate’ - (in which Pilate held his “Judgment Hall.”) - - Page 167: - Sentence starting: Expressing surprise at her absence.... - – ‘househould’ replaced with ‘household’ - (if the household be too little) - - Page 235: - Sentence starting: Having an elevation of.... - – ‘28,000’ replaced with ‘2,800’ - (Having an elevation of 2,800 feet) - - Page 309: - Sentence starting: Nearly two centuries later.... - – ‘Hanor’ replaced with ‘Hamor’ - (at the hand of the children of Hamor,) - - Page 365: - Sentence starting: Her house, with the.... - – ‘soliel’ replaced with ‘soleil’ - (the fatal _coup de soleil_) - - Page 391: - Sentence starting: Considered one of the most.... - – ‘impotrant’ replaced with ‘important’ - (one of the most important cities) - - Page 404: - Sentence starting: St. John, with greater.... - – ‘exacitude’ replaced with ‘exactitude’ - (with greater exactitude, says) - - Page 464: - Sentence starting: The shag-bark is coarse.... - – ‘fail’ replaced with ‘fall’ - (and fall in early winter;) - - Footnote 20: - Sentence starting: Josephus, Anti B.... - – added omitted volume reference ‘b. xv.,’ - (Josephus, Anti B., b. xv., c. iv.) - - Footnote 560: - Sentence starting: Matt., xiv.... - – ‘lxxviii’ replaced with ‘xviii’ - (Josephus, Antiq., b. xviii., c. v.) - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of From Dan to Beersheba, by John P. 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