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margin-bottom: 0.25em; } - .c013 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 2em; } - .c014 { margin-top: 1em; text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.25em; } - .c015 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; padding-right: 1em; } - .c016 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; } - .c017 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 25%; width: 50%; margin-right: 25%; - margin-top: 2em; } - </style> - </head> - <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Boat Sailing, by A. J. Kenealy - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Boat Sailing - In Fair Weather and Foul, 6th ed. - -Author: A. J. Kenealy - -Release Date: October 29, 2017 [EBook #55846] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOAT SAILING *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, readbueno and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='cover' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span> - <h1 class='c000'>BOAT SAILING,<br /> <br />FAIR WEATHER AND FOUL.</h1> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c001' /> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span> -<img src='images/i_002.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><i>Good Luck and a Fair Wind.</i><br /><br /><i>A. J. Kenealy.</i></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span>OUTING LIBRARY OF SPORT.</div> - <div class='c001'><span class='xxlarge'><span class='sc'>Boat Sailing</span></span></div> - <div class='c001'>IN</div> - <div class='c001'>FAIR WEATHER AND FOUL.</div> - <div class='c001'><i>BY</i></div> - <div class='c001'>CAPTAIN A. J. KENEALY.</div> - <div class='c003'><span class='small'>"Man made him a boat of a hollow tree,</span></div> - <div><span class='small'>And thus became lord of the bounding sea."</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/i_003.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> - <div class='nf-center'> - <div><i>1903.</i></div> - <div><i>SIXTH EDITION.</i></div> - <div><i>REVISED.</i></div> - <div class='c001'><i>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS.</i></div> - <div class='c003'>THE OUTING PUBLISHING CO.,</div> - <div>NEW YORK. LONDON.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c001' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c1'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span>Copyrighted by</div> - <div><span class='sc'>The Outing Publishing Company</span>, 1903,</div> - <div>NEW YORK.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c001' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span> - <h2 class='c004'>PREFACE.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_6 c005'>When the first edition of this little -book was printed in 1894 my publishers -thought they would be -very lucky if they ever disposed -of half the number of copies turned out -by the press. I had the same melancholy -forebodings. The result has shown that -our fears were groundless. The book -was written in a simple sailorly style for -all lovers of the sea and boats. That it -should have received such cordial commendation -as it has from amateurs and -professionals has been both a pleasure -and a surprise. In sending it out on its -sixth edition, I cannot lose the opportunity -of thanking my critics who have -been very flattering to whatever merits -it may possess.</p> -<div class='c006'><span class='sc'>A. J. Kenealy.</span></div> - -<p class='c007'><i>New York, April, 1903.</i></p> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span> - <h2 class='c004'>CONTENTS.</h2> -</div> -<table class='table0' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='89%' /> -<col width='10%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER I.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Preliminary Hints to an Amateur with Ambitions Toward Owning a Boat—Why He Ought Join a Yacht—Club Handiness of the Cat-Rig</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_15'>15</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER II.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>The Choice of a Boat—Advantages of Stationary Ballast and a Centerboard—How to Avoid Being "Done" in a Boat Trade—Bargains at the Navy Yard—The Way to Cure a "Nail-Sick" Craft</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_22'>22</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER III.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Trial Spin in a Cat-Boat—How to Get Under Way, Beat to Windward and Run Back, with Instructions How to Act if Caught in a Squall or Stranded on a Shoal, and How to Avoid Collisions and Come to Anchor</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_28'>28</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER IV.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Advantages of the Yawl-Rig for General Cruising Purposes, especially when "Single Handed," with a Description of a Representative Craft—Disadvantages of the Ballast Fin for All Purposes Except Racing—The Fin in Model Yachting Years Ago</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_37'>37</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER V.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>The Popularity of the Knockabout as an Excellent Cruising Craft, with Some Observations on the One-design Classes from Schooners to Dories</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_55'>55</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VI.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Keep Your Weather-Eye Open All the Time When Afloat—How to Handle a Boat in Heavy Weather or a Summer Squall—The Use of the Sea Anchor in Riding Out a Gale, and How Shipwreck May Be Avoided by the Judicious Use of Oil</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_65'>65</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VII.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Overhauling the Yacht—Practical Instructions for Cleaning and Painting the Craft Inside and Out, with Hints on the Care of Hull, Spars, Canvas and Running gear</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_88'>88</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER VIII.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Fitting Out for a Cruise—Hints on Equipping and Provisioning a Boat so as to be Prepared for All Emergencies—A Sailor's Solution of the Culinary Problem—Hot "Grub" in a Gale</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_115'>115</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'><span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>CHAPTER IX.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Beating to Windward—The Theory and Practice of Sailing a Vessel Against the Breeze</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_128'>128</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER X.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Combination Rowing and Sailing Boats—The Jib and Mainsail Sprit, Leg-of-Mutton, Cat, Balance Lug and Sliding Gunter-Rigs—The Folding Centerboard</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_140'>140</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XI.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Rigging and Sails, with Some Impartial Remarks on the Lanyard and the Deadeye, as Opposed to the Turnbuckle—Standing and Running Gear, and the Bending and Setting of Canvas</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_155'>155</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XII.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Laying Up for the Winter—Practical Suggestions for Protecting a Boat and Her Gear from the Stress of Our Inclement Climate—A Plea for Trustworthy Skippers and Engineers</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_168'>168</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIII.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Useful Hints and Recipes, with Some Remarks on the Buying of a Binocular Marine Glass, from the "Brain-Pan" of a Practical Sailor</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_175'>175</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIV.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>The Rule of the Road at Sea: Being a Digest of the Present International Regulations for Preventing Collisions on Oceans and in Harbors</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_185'>185</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XV.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>The Mariner's Compass, with Remarks on Deviation, Variation, Leeway, etc.</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_192'>192</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVI.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Charts, with Some Hints as to Navigation by Dead-reckoning—Lead, Log, and Lookout</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_203'>203</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVII.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Marlinespike Seamanship: Being Practical Instructions in the Art of Making the Splices, Knots and Bends in Ordinary Use</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_207'>207</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XVIII.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Weather Wrinkles from the Scientific Point of View of Professional Meteorologists and also Jack Tar</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_217'>217</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XIX.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Sea Cookery for Yachtsmen</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_223'>223</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>CHAPTER XX.</td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>Nautical Terms in Common Use, from which all Obsolete and Antiquated Terms, such as were in use aboard the Ark, have been eliminated</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_236'>236</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><i>Addenda</i>—Recent Changes of Sail Plan and Rigging in Modern Craft</td> - <td class='c010'><a href='#Page_248'>248</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span> - <h2 class='c004'>ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS.</h2> -</div> -<table class='table1' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='91%' /> -<col width='8%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr><td class='c008' colspan='2'>Frontispiece. <i>Turning the Stake.</i></td></tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'> </td> - <td class='c011'>PAGE</td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_41'>Yawl in a Squall,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_41'>41</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_49'>Latest Type of Fin-Keel,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_49'>49</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_54'>Sail Plan of Modern Fin-Keel,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_54'>54</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_56'>Seawanhaka, 21-foot Knockabout,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_56'>56</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_57'>Seawanhaka Knockabout,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_57'>57</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_58'>Sail Plan Seawanhaka Knockabout,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_58'>58</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_70'>Drogue, or Sea Anchor,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_70'>70</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_71'>Diagram of Floating Anchor,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_71'>71</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_72'>Floating Anchor in Use,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_75'>The Boston Knockabout, <i>Gosling</i>,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_75'>75</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_80'>Plan of Oil Distributor,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_80'>80</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_98'>In Dry Dock,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_98'>98</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_98'>Hauled Out for Painting,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_98'>98</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_114'>Making Ready for a New Dress,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_114'>114</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_119'>Pleasant Cat-Boat Sailing,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_119'>119</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_128'>Sailing Under Varying Conditions of Wind,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_128'>128</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_130'>Running Before the Wind,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_130'>130</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_131'>Gybing,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_131'>131</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_132'>Close Hauled on Port Tack,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_132'>132</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_133'>Close Hauled on Starboard Tack,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_133'>133</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_134'>Dead Beat to Windward,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_134'>134</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_138'>A Long Leg and a Short Leg,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_138'>138</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_139'>The Manœuvre of Tacking,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_139'>139</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_140'>Whip Purchase and Traveler,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_140'>140</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_141'>Jib and Mainsail Rig,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_141'>141</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_143'>Sprit Rig,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_143'>143</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_147'>Leg-of-Mutton Rig,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_147'>147</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_148'>Cat Rig,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_148'>148</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_150'>Balance Lug Rig,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_150'>150</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_151'>Sliding Gunter Rig,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_151'>151</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_152'>Detail of Sliding Gunter Rig,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_152'>152</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_154'>Folding Centerboard,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_154'>154</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_156'>Shroud, Deadeye, Lanyard,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_156'>156</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_157'>Turnbuckle,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_157'>157</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_158'>Topmast Rigging,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_158'>158</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_159'>Rig of Running Bowsprit,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_159'>159</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_161'>Horse for Main Sheet,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_161'>161</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_166'>Gear for Hauling Out Loose-footed Mainsail,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_166'>166</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_179'>Luncheon in the Cock-pit,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_179'>179</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_180'>Scowing an Anchor,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_180'>180</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_184'>"Half Raters,"</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_184'>184</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_193'>The Compass,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_193'>193</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_207'>Marlinespike,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_207'>207</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_208'>Knots and Splices,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_208'>208</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_221'>Cautionary Signals,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_221'>221</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_222'>Storm Signals,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_222'>222</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_223'>A Yachtsman's Stove,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_223'>223</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_225'>The Ideal Fry-pan,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_225'>225</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_227'>A Nest of Stew-Pans,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_227'>227</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_229'>Ice Tub,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_229'>229</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_231'>A Traveling Companion,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_231'>231</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_246'>The Sloop Yacht,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_246'>246</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_247'>The Cutter Yacht,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_247'>247</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_249'>The Sail Plan and Rig of a Modern Schooner,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_249'>249</a></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_251'>The Sail Plan and Rig of a Modern Yawl,</a></td> - <td class='c011'><a href='#Page_251'>251</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span> -<img src='images/i_010.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>TURNING THE STAKE.</span></p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span> - <h2 class='c004'>I.<br /> <br />ADVICE TO AN AMATEUR.</h2> -</div> -<div class='c012'> - <img class='drop-capi' src='images/i_011.jpg' width='100' height='103' alt='' /> -</div><p class='drop-capi1_1'> -All of us remember the -old sailor's retort to the -man who reproached -him for soaking his clay -in bad rum. "There -ain't such a thing under -heaven as <i>bad</i> rum," he -sagely remarked. "Of -course some rum is better than another, -but I have been knocking about the -world for more than fifty years and -never did I drink a glass of rum that -deserved to be called <i>bad</i>, and I got -outside of some pretty fiery tipple in -my time."</p> - -<p class='c007'>The same is true in a general way of -boats. There are many types of boat -and each has some peculiar attribute to -recommend it. No two craft, for instance, -could be more widely different -in every way than a Gloucester fishing -dory and a Cape Cod cat-boat, yet each -when properly handled has safely ridden -out an Atlantic gale. Of course if -<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>their movements had been directed by -farm hands both would have foundered. -In point of fact, there is no royal road -to the acquisition of seamanship. Experience -is what is needed first, last and -all the time. It is true, however, that -the rough sea over which the learner -has necessarily to sail may be smoothed -for him, even as the breakers on a harbor -bar are rendered passable for a homeward-bound -craft by the judicious application -of a little oil.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The choice of a boat depends upon a -vast variety of circumstances, the chief -of which is the location of the prospective -boat owner. If he lives on the -Great South Bay, for example, he should -provide himself with a craft of light -draught, almost capable of sailing on a -clover field after a heavy fall of dew. -Equipped with a centerboard and a sail -a boat of this kind, if of the right shape -and construction, will be found comfortable, -safe and of moderate speed. A -man may also enjoy an infinite amount -of pleasure aboard her, after he has -mastered the secret of her management. -There are so many sandbars in the -Great South Bay that a boat of light -draught is indispensable to successful -sailing. The same remark applies also -to Barnegat Bay and adjacent New -Jersey waters. There are some persons -who believe that it is impossible to combine -light draught and safety. They -make a great mistake. A twelve-foot -sneakbox in Barnegat Bay, with the -right man steering, will live for a long -<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>time in rough water that would sorely -try the capacity of a much larger craft -in the hands of a lubber. The same is -true of a sharpie.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The man who makes up his mind that -he wants a sailing boat should study -well the geography of his vicinity. If -he lives in New York or on the Sound -his course is easy. He is sure to be -within reach of a yacht or boat club from -whose members he can get all the information -he needs. They will tell him -the boat best adapted to his requirements -and his finances, and if they persuade -him to join their organization they -will be conferring upon him a favor. I -have traveled a good deal among the -yacht clubs of New York, New Jersey -and Connecticut, and I never came -across a more generous, more obliging -and more sportsmanlike body of men -than those enrolled on the rosters of -these enterprising associations. They -are convinced that there is more real -pleasure to the square inch in the possession -of a stout boat capable of being -managed by a couple of men, than there -is in the proprietorship of a big yacht -that carries a crew of twenty and whose -owner probably knows nothing about -the art of sailing her, but depends all the -time on his skipper. It is a pleasure to -meet these men and listen to their yarns. -The earnestness, the zeal and the ability -with which they pursue their favorite -pastime are indeed commendable. -And the best of it is they are always -ready to welcome recruits, and to pass -<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>them through the rudimentary mill of -seamanship and navigation, their motto -being "Every man his own skipper." -The only requisite necessary to membership -in one or more of these clubs is -that you should be a "clubable" man -with manly instincts. Young fellows, -too, are eagerly sought, so you need have -no compunction about seeking their -doors, the latchstrings of which are always -down.</p> - -<p class='c007'>By all means join a club, I say. You -get all the advantages of the house and -the anchorage, and all the benefits that -accrue to association with men who are -ardent and enthusiastic in the enjoyment -of their pet diversion. Besides—let -me whisper a word in your ear, my -brother, you of the slender purse or -may be economic instincts—it will be -cheaper for you in the end; it will put -money in your purse. Your boat will -be looked after all the year round by -watchful guardians, who will see that it -isn't stripped or rifled by river pirates, -and that the elements do not mar its -beauty. I confess I was surprised when -I learned how little it costs to become -entitled to all the privileges of these -clubs, and it is owing to their moderate -charges that the "mosquito fleet" in -the vicinity of New York is growing so -big and interest in the sport is increasing -so rapidly.</p> - -<p class='c007'>What I have written of New York -is true, perhaps, in a greater measure of -Boston. There is no finer sheet of -water for boat sailing than Boston Bay, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>and no people in the world are more -devoted to the sport than those who -dwell in the city of culture and its sea-washed -environs. There are plenty of -yacht clubs between Point Allerton, -on the south, and Marblehead, on the -north. It has been ascertained that -more than five thousand members -have joined these organizations and -that nineteen hundred yachts are enrolled -on their lists, most of the craft -being less than twenty feet on the water -line. It will thus be seen that Boston -fully appreciates the value of small -sailing craft as a means of amusement -and healthful recreation. The port -from which <i>Volunteer</i>, <i>Mayflower</i> and -<i>Puritan</i> originally hailed, though justly -proud of those three magnificent racing -yachts, has always been distinguished -for turning out stout, able and seaworthy -vessels of the smaller type, and -also for breeding a sturdy race of men -who know every trick of seamanship. -The majority of the boats are so constructed -and rigged as to ensure that -they will render a good account of -themselves in a blow and a seaway. -Thus the "sandbagger" type of vessel -is rarely found "down east," and this, -in my opinion, need not be regretted.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The catrigged boat, with stationary -ballast and a centerboard, may be said -to be the type generally preferred in -those waters. The Newport cat-boat is -famous the world over for her handiness, -speed and ability. I know that it is -fashionable for scientific men and swell -<span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>naval architects to decry the seaworthiness -of these boats. It has been urged -that the weight of the mast in the eyes -of the craft is a serious objection, a strain -on the hull, and not unlikely to be carried -away for want of proper staying. -The long boom also has been objected -to, because of its liability to trip. The -craft has been declared difficult to steer -and a regular "yawer." But while saying -unkind things of the cat-boat's behavior -in a blow, no critic, however -biased, has ventured to deny her general -handiness.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I might remind these gentlemen that -the owner of a pleasure boat does not -as a rule sail her in a blow or in a seaway, -but this would not be a fair or -legitimate argument. The elements -are treacherous. A summer storm often -plays havoc among the shipping, and a -man who ventures seaward in the morning -in a balmy breeze and with the -water smooth as a horsepond may be -caught in a savage blow, followed by a -heavy sea, both of which may sorely try -the capabilities of his craft and his own -resources as a seaman.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I am such a devout believer, however, -in a cat-boat of proper form and rig, that -I will defend her as a good and handy -craft in both fair weather and foul. It -blows hard in Narragansett Bay sometimes, -and I have often known a devil -of a sea to be kicked up off Brenton's -Reef lightship. But the Newport cat-boat, -with a couple of reefs down, comes -out of the harbor and dances over the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>steep waves like a duck or a cork. I -never saw one of them come to grief, -and in fact they have always impressed -me as being the handiest all-round boat -afloat. I have sailed in them in all sorts -of weather, and I am not likely to alter -my opinion. Many of the objections -raised against them are idle. For instance, -the mast can be so stayed as to -be perfectly secure. There is also no -reason why the boom should project so -far over the stern as to trip, and in this -connection I should like to ask of what -use is a topping lift unless one avails -himself of it in just such an emergency? -A man should always keep the boom -well topped up when running before -the wind in a seaway, and by this means -he may avoid much trouble and possibly -peril.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The above remarks are applicable to -both salt water and fresh water, to the -yachts of the North, the South, as well -as of the Great and Little Lakes, and -indeed wherever the glorious sport -flourishes. In point of fact, all the hints -and directions given in these chapters -may be followed with profit on the -Pacific Coast as well as on the Atlantic -Seaboard, on Lake Michigan or on the -Gulf of St. Lawrence.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span> - <h2 class='c004'>II.<br /> <br />THE CHOICE OF A BOAT.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_6 c005'>If any ambitious would-be mariner, -old or young, hailing from anywhere -were to ask me what sort of a boat -I would recommend him to build -or buy, I would answer him frankly -that an able cat-boat, with a centerboard -and stationary ballast would, -in my judgment, be best. I would advise -him to shun the "sandbaggers"—not -that one cannot enjoy an immense -amount of exciting sport in one of them, -but because they seem to me to be only -fit for racing, and I will tell you why. -A man when he goes on a quiet cruise -doesn't want to be bothered by having -to shift heavy bags of sand every time -the boat goes about. It is too much -like hard work, and by the time your -day's fun is finished you feel stiff in the -joints. I have other arguments against -the use of shifting ballast, but do not -think any other save the one mentioned -is necessary.</p> - -<p class='c007'>This point disposed of, let us confer. -Of what shall the stationary ballast for -our able cat-boat consist? Outside lead -is of course the best, but its first cost is -a serious matter. A cast-iron false keel -or shoe answers admirably, and is moderate -in price. Some persons object to -it, claiming that it rusts and corrodes; -<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>that its fastenings decay the wooden -keel to which it is bolted, and that its -weight strains a boat and soon causes -her to become leaky. There is of course -some truth in these charges; but if the -boat is built by a mechanic and not an -impostor, none of these disadvantages -will exist, and the cast-iron keel will -prove to be both efficient and economical.</p> - -<p class='c007'>But if, by straining a point, lead can -be afforded, procure it by all means and -have it bolted on outside. It neither -tarnishes nor corrodes, and as it does -not deteriorate, its marketable value is -always the same. Racing yachts have, -however, been known to sell for less -than their lead ballast cost, but such instances -are rare. It should be borne in -mind that the lower down the lead is -placed the less the quantity required, -and the greater its efficiency.</p> - -<p class='c007'>There are always a number of second-hand -cat-boats in the market for sale at -a reasonable rate, and an advertisement -will bring plenty of replies. But for a -tyro to purchase a boat haphazard is a -mistake on general principles. It is -like a sailor buying a horse. Get some -honest shipwright or boat builder to -examine, say, some half-dozen boats -whose dimensions suit you, and whose -prices are about what you think you -can afford. There are certain portions -of a cat-boat that are subject to violent -strains when the craft is under way. -The step of the mast and the centerboard -trunk are parts that require the -vigilant eye of an expert.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>Human nature is prone to temptation, -and paint and putty are used quite -often to conceal many important defects -in a craft advertised for sale. The keen -eye of a mechanic who has served his -time to a boat-builder will soon detect -all deficiencies of this kind, will ferret -out rotten timbers, and under his advice -and counsel you may succeed in picking -up at a bargain some sound, seaworthy -and serviceable craft in which you can -enjoy yourself to your heart's content.</p> - -<p class='c007'>But if some rotten hull is foisted on -you by an unscrupulous person you will -be apt to "kick yourself round the -block," for she will be always in need of -repairs, and in the end, when she is -finally condemned, you will find on figuring -up the cost that it would have -been money in your pocket if you had -built a new boat.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The principal boat-builders of New -York, New Jersey, Connecticut and -Massachusetts are men of high character, -who take a pride in their work -(which is thoroughly first-class), and -whose prices are strictly moderate. Any -one of these will construct a capital boat -of good model and fair speed. I am an -old crank and a bigot in many things -appertaining to boats and the sea, but I -hope that any reader of this who is going -to build a pleasure craft will follow -my advice at least in this instance: Let -her be copper-fastened above and below -the water-line. Don't use a single galvanized -nail or bolt in her construction. -See that the fastenings are clenched -<span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span>on a roove—not simply turned down. -Don't spoil the ship for a paltry ha'porth -of tar. Many builders, for the sake of -economy, use galvanized iron throughout, -and will take a solemn affidavit that -it is quite as good as copper. But in the -innermost cockles of their hearts they -know they are wrong. Others more -conscientious use copper fastenings below -the water-line and galvanized iron -above; but copper throughout is my cry, -and so will I ever maintain while I am -on this side of the Styx.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Sometimes one may pick up a good -serviceable boat at a Navy Yard sale. -Uncle Sam's boats are of fair design and -well built. They are often condemned -because they are what is called "nail -sick," a defect which can be easily remedied. -Occasionally a steamship's life-boat -can be bought for a trifle, and if it -be fitted with a false keel with an iron -shoe on it, will prove thoroughly seaworthy -and a moderately good sailer.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Mr. E. F. Knight, the English barrister -and author of the "Cruise of the -<i>Falcon</i>," tells how he bought a life-boat -condemned by the Peninsular and Oriental -Company. She was thirty feet long -with a beam of eight feet, very strong, -being built of double skins of teak, and, -like all the life-boats used by that company, -an excellent sea boat. This craft -he timbered and decked, rigged her as a -ketch, and crossed the North Sea in her, -going as far as Copenhagen and back, -and encountering plenty of bad weather -during the adventurous voyage. Mr. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>Knight is a believer in the pointed or -life-boat stern for a small vessel. He -was caught in a northwest gale, in the -Gulf of Heligoland, in the above-mentioned -craft, and had to sail sixty miles before -a high and dangerous sea. His boat -showed no tendency to broach to, "but -rushed straight ahead across the steep -sea in a fashion that gave us confidence -and astonished us. Had she had the -ordinary yacht's stern to present to those -following masses of water, instead of a -graceful wedge offering little resistance, -we should have had a very uncomfortable -time of it. Many men dislike a -pointed stern and consider it ugly. -However that may be it behaves handsomely, -and we should certainly recommend -any amateur building a sailing -boat for coasting purposes to give her -the life-boat stern."</p> - -<p class='c007'>Mr. Knight fitted his boat with lee -boards, which no doubt served their -purpose admirably. I should, however, -favor a false keel and an iron shoe as -being more efficient and less unsightly. -I should not advise the purchaser of a -condemned life-boat to have her fitted -with a centerboard. The cost would be -high, and unless the job was done in a -first-class manner by a man experienced -at this sort of work it would be very unsatisfactory.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A "nail-sick," clencher-built boat -should be hauled up on the beach and -filled with water. Every leak should -be marked on the outside with chalk or -white paint. After all the leaks have -<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>been discovered, run the water out of -her and dry her thoroughly. Next examine -every nail and try the lands or -joinings of the planks with the blade of -a very thin knife. Any rivets which -have worked loose must be taken out -and replaced with nails and rooves of a -larger size. Through the chief parts of -the bottom it may be necessary to put -an additional nail between every two -originally driven. Many of the old nails -which are only a little slack should be -hardened at their clench by a few taps -from inside, one hand holding a "dollie" -against the head of the nail on the outside. -Melt a pound of pitch in a gallon -of boiling North Carolina tar and give -her bottom a good coat inside, filling the -lands or ledges well. The garboard -strake fastenings and also those of the -hooded ends should be carefully caulked. -So should the seams. The seams of the -planking should also be caulked.</p> - -<p class='c007'>There are various methods of making -a boat unsinkable. Cork is sometimes -used, but it takes up too much room and -is not so buoyant as air. Copper or zinc -cases, made to fit under the thwarts -and in various odd corners, have been -fitted in boats, but their cost is high. -Amateurs have used powder flasks and -cracker cans, with their covers soldered -on, cigar boxes, covered with duck and -painted, bladders inflated with air, etc., -etc. A boat displacing one ton will take -about forty cubic feet of air to make her -unsinkable.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span> - <h2 class='c004'>III.<br /> <br />TRIAL SPIN IN A CAT-BOAT.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4__6 c005'>Before getting a cat-boat under -way from an anchorage, or casting -adrift from moorings, the captain -should see all gear clear, that -the centerboard works easily in its -trunk, and that oars, rowlocks and -a baler are aboard. An oar is very -handy for turning a boat's head -round in a light air when she has -barely steerage way on; and in case you -are confronted with a flat calm, a pair -of oars are indispensable for working -homeward. A boat-hook, too, should -not be neglected. There is a story that -I heard in the forecastle, of a mean old -Dutch skipper who left his new anchor -ashore on purely economic grounds. -He was afraid it might rust, I suppose. -The result of this thrifty dodge was the -loss of his vessel on the Goodwin Sands. -My counsel to the young boat-skipper -is to see that his anchor is snugly stowed -away forward, and that his chain—if -his cable is of chain—is properly -shackled to the ring of the anchor, and -that the inner end of the cable is fast -to the heel of the mast by a lashing -that can be cut if it is necessary to slip -at any time. If the cable is of rope, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>take care that it is not made fast to the -ring with a slippery hitch. Anchors -cost money, and a bend that will not -come adrift is quite simple to make.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Cast the tyers off the mainsail and -hoist it, pulling up best on the throat -halyards and then "swigging" on the -peak till the after-leech is taut and the -sail begins to wrinkle slightly at the -throat. While you are setting the sail, -let the sheet fly. Next coil down the -throat and peak halyards clear for running, -and see that the mainsheet is free -from kinks and coiled so that it can be -eased off at a moment's notice without -any danger of jamming in the block. -A kink in the mainsheet has capsized -many a cat-boat. Before you reeve a new -mainsheet, stretch it well and take all -the kinks out of it. Take care that the -running parts of all sheets and halyards -are coiled uppermost, with the ends -underneath.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Let us suppose that there is a nice -breeze blowing and that your intention -is to essay a four or five mile beat to -windward, and then conclude your trial -trip with a run home. Cast adrift from -your moorings or get your anchor -aboard, as the case may be, and start -out on whichever tack is convenient. -When on the starboard tack the boom -is over to port, and <i>vice versa</i>. Lower -the centerboard and fill away on the -boat with one hand on the tiller and -the other holding the mainsheet, which -should never be belayed, but may be -held by half a turn round the cleat.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>Do not make the mistake of trimming -in the sheet too flat, but let the boom -off till it is well on the quarter and keep -the sail well full, not allowing it to -shiver. This is called steering "full-and-by," -which signifies as close to the -wind as possible with the sail not shaking. -If your boat is well balanced—that -is, if her weights are well adjusted -and her sail of proper cut—she will carry -quite a little weather helm. So much -so that if you allow the rudder to come -amidships or on a line with the keel she -will fly up in the wind and her sails will -shake. This is by no means a fault unless -it is carried to excess, and it may be -said, indeed, that there is something -radically wrong with a craft that requires -lee helm—a defect that should -be remedied at once.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The young sailor should bear in mind -that to accomplish the best results in -beating to windward the sail should always -be kept full. Nothing is gained -by sailing a boat right in the wind's eye -with the sail shivering. The boat then -points higher but she goes to leeward -like a crab. Instances have been known -of a fore-and-aft racing yacht sailing -within three points of the wind, but -these are rare, indeed. The ordinary -cat-boat will not often do better than -pointing up within four points of the -breeze, and her best windward work is -generally thus accomplished. There -are occasions, indeed, when what is -known as a "fisherman's luff" may be -indulged in with profit, such as when -<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>rounding a mark or shooting up to an -anchorage where there is little room. -The maneuver consists in luffing the -boat up into the wind so that the sails -shake, and she shoots dead to windward -by her own momentum. If the boat is -a heavy one she will shoot quite a distance. -Care must be taken to put the -helm up and fill on her before she loses -way, or she will get "in irons" and -acquire sternway, or perhaps pay off -on the other tack. If a boat acquires -sternway the helm must be shifted at -once. The rudder will now produce the -reverse effect to what it would if the -boat were going ahead. Putting the -tiller to starboard turns the vessel's head -to port, and <i>vice versa</i> in the case of -sternway.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The beginner will find that his boat -spins along quite merrily and obeys the -slightest touch of the tiller. He should -not relax his vigilance in the least, but -should keep his weather eye skinned for -sudden gusts of wind or catspaws which -may be seen ruffling the water to windward, -in timely season before they strike -the boat. As the little craft begins to -heel or list over to the pressure, luff up -a little so that the fore-leech of the sail -begins to shiver. If there is not weight -enough in the puff to put the lee rail -under, sail her along with just the suspicion -of a shake in the luff of the sail, -so that if she goes over far enough for -the water to threaten to come over the -lee coamings and deluge the cockpit you -can put your helm down and luff up -<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>until the boat comes nearly head to -wind, at the same time lowering away -your sail and making preparations for -taking in a reef.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If you are a novice, and the water is -neither too rough nor too deep and the -breeze seems likely to last, and you think -your craft is not up to carrying a whole -mainsail, there is no reason why you -should not drop anchor and reef your -sail in leisurely and comfortable fashion. -If you feel at all nervous take in a -couple of reefs.</p> - -<p class='c007'>After sail has been shortened set the -mainsail, hoist up the anchor again and -thresh her at it. You will observe that -she inclines less to the puffs under the -pressure of the reduced sail, and that -the lee gunwale is always well clear of -the water. Watch the boat well; look -out for coming squalls, and be prepared -to ease off the sheet and luff up instantly -should occasion arise. If there -are other boats in company with you -tacking toward the same point you must -remember that those on the starboard -tack have the right of way, and thus -when you are on the port tack you must -keep clear of them. I would not advise -a novice in a boat on the port tack to -try and cross the bow of a boat on the -starboard tack unless there is plenty of -room. Distances on the water are deceptive -to the tyro, and it is well to run -no risk of collision. If the boat on the -port tack will not keep away for you -when you are on the starboard tack, -and seems to be making for you with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>the intention of running you down, keep -cool. Stand by to put your helm hard -down so as to luff right up in the wind -or even to go about. If you put your -helm up and keep away, and a collision -ensues, you would probably have to pay -all the damage. The strict legal rule -is that the vessel on the starboard tack -must keep her course and neither luff -nor bear up. If this rule is observed -you will be within the letter of the law. -In yacht racing a yacht on the port tack -can be disqualified if she is struck by a -yacht which is on the starboard tack, no -matter how the striking happened; if -she herself strikes a yacht which is on -the starboard tack; if she causes a yacht -which is on the starboard tack to bear -away to avoid a collision. It is apparent, -therefore, that no wise helmsman -will run any risks. If he is on the port -tack he will give way with a good grace -and try to look pleasant. It is better -than a collision, which is sure in a brisk -breeze to do a lot of damage, and may -possibly cause serious personal injuries -or even loss of life.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The beginner may, after threshing to -windward for an hour or so, begin to feel -homesick. Let him then put his helm up, -easing the mainsheet off at the same -time until he gets the boom at a right -angle with the mast and the boat dead -before the wind. He will at this time -have to pay particular attention to the -steering, giving the boat "small helm" -and giving it to her quickly in order to -keep her steady on her course. Steering -<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>a cat-boat in a stiff breeze and lumpy -water requires both skill and experience. -I should counsel a green hand to lower -the peak of the mainsail and run her -under easy sail until he acquires the art. -In that case, should he accidentally gybe -the boom over, the result is not likely to -be particularly disastrous; whereas, if -the sail were peaked up, the boom might -snap in two or the boat herself might -broach to.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The centerboard should be hoisted -up into the trunk when running before -the wind, and the boom should be kept -well topped up. In some small cat-boats -there is no topping lift and the sail has -only one halyard, which hoists both the -throat and peak. This is a faulty rig. -Throat and peak halyards should be -separate, and a topping lift should always -be fitted.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I think it my duty to warn the inexperienced -boat sailer against gybing -his little craft. It is a maneuver that -requires skill and care, especially in a -brisk breeze. If you must gybe, lower -the peak so as to "scandalize" the sail, -and haul the boom well aboard as the -helm is put up. As the wind shifts from -dead astern and comes on the other -quarter, carrying the boom over, ease -off the sheet handsomely and take care -to meet her promptly with the helm as -she flies to, which is invariably the case. -You can then hoist the peak up again.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If you have women and children -aboard the boat, gybing should never be -resorted to if the wind is strong. It is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>far preferable to luff up into the wind -and tack and then keep off again.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In coming to anchor or picking up -moorings make the boat describe a good -sweep, so that she may come up in the -wind and lose her way exactly where -you wish. You can then either let go -the anchor or pick up the moorings, as -the case may be. Then lower the sail, -furl it snugly, put on the sail cover, stow -away everything neatly, haul taut the -halyards and the mainsheet, which you -should coil up, and leave everything tidy -and in readiness for getting under way -next time.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When, on a wind with a light breeze -and in smooth water, it becomes necessary -to heave to to let a boat come -alongside, haul the mainsheet flat aft -and haul the fore and jib sheets a-weather. -If in a fresh breeze, flatten in the -mainsheet, let the jib sheet flow, and -haul the fore sheet a-weather.</p> - -<p class='c007'>For small open boats the anchor -should weigh one pound for every foot -of length up to twenty feet length. If -the boat is ballasted, another half pound -per foot should be added.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If you have the misfortune to get -stuck fast in the mud or on a sand bank, -you must act quickly. If you ground -while running before the wind, lower -your sails at once. If you have a -dinghy, run out your kedge anchor, -with a line fast to it, astern into deep -water and try to haul off. Work the -helm to and fro. Run from side to -side so as to loosen the boat from her -<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>muddy bed. If the tide is rising and -your kedge does not drag, you will be -sure to get off.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If you run aground while close-hauled, -let go the mainsheet, put the helm -hard over and try to back her off with -the jib, at the same time using a boathook -or oar to try to shove her into -deep water. If you have any passengers, -concentrate all their weight as far -aft as possible. Send out a kedge, and -let all hands clap to on the line. If the -tide is on the ebb, you may probably -have to wait till high water. Now comes -a ticklish crisis. If your craft is beamy, -with full bilges, she will take the -ground and lie easily as the water recedes. -If, on the other hand, your -little ship is of the deep and narrow -kind and is not provided with "legs," -you will have to improvise something -in that direction to prevent her from -careening on her side. "Legs" are not -fashionable on this side of the Atlantic. -They are props of wood shod with iron, -one end of which rests on the bottom, -while the other fits under the channels, -or is lashed to a shroud. If you have -no other spar available, unbend the head -of the mainsail from the gaff. Stick it -in the mud jaws downward close to the -rigging and lash it firmly to a shroud. -List the boat over to the side the gaff is -out by guying over the boom and putting -any extra weight you happen to -have on the same side. The boat will -then take the ground in safety.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span> - <h2 class='c004'>IV.<br /> <br />THE YAWL RIG.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_5 c005'>Though I recommend the catboat -as a general craft for knocking -about and having a good time in, -I am not blind to the advantages -of the yawl rig. In fact, the -bold young seaman contemplating long -cruises and sometimes venturing out of -sight of land will find that the yawl rig -possesses no mean merit. For single-handed -cruising its worth has long been -recognized. The sails are so divided -that they are small and easy to handle, -but this division of sail inevitably decreases -the speed and also the weatherly -qualities of the boat. If we take -a catboat and change her into a yawl -rig she will not be nearly so fast, nor -will she point so close to the wind. -There are fathoms of scientific reasons -for this with which I will not -bother my readers. Suffice it to say -that it has been demonstrated practically -over and over again.</p> - -<p class='c007'>But although the yawl-rigged sailing -boat of the smallest type has at least -three sails—foresail, mainsail and mizzen—yet -the last named, after once being -set, practically takes care of itself. The -mainsail, too, is quite easily handled, -the whole sail being in the body of the -boat. The foresail sometimes gives a -little annoyance in taking it in, if the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>boat is pitching her nose under in a -steep sea. This, however, is unavoidable. -Headsails on all sailing vessels, -big or little, have never been conducive -to dry skins under certain conditions of -wind and sea. The yawl is always under -control, and in this attribute lies her -chief charm. When a squall is bearing -down all one has to do is to lower the -mainsail and pass a tyer or two round it to -keep it muzzled. When the gust strikes -the boat she is under easy sail and is -not likely to come to grief. If the squall -is of exceptional strength, ease off the -foresheet and keep the sail shaking a -little until you have felt the full strength -of the wind. Act then as judgment may -dictate. If the blow is very heavy and -seems likely to last it may be necessary -to take in the foresail and the mizzen, -and close reef the mainsail.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If you are sailing with the wind a-beam -and a squall smites you it may not be -necessary to lower the mainsail at all. -Ease the sheet right off so as to spill the -wind, and you will pass safely through -the ordeal without parting a rope yarn.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In getting under way or in working -up to anchorage in a crowded harbor -or roadstead the yawl rig is one of the -handiest known, for by having the mainsail -furled the speed of the boat is reduced -so that you can pick your way -among the craft without danger of collision -or striking flaws. So many famous -cruises have been made in small -yawl-rigged craft that there can be no -doubt about their adaptability for such -<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>work, and to the man anxious for more -ambitious achievement than merely -sailing in rivers, bays and sheltered -harbors, I most certainly would recommend -the rig.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Despite the yawl's certain safety for -single handed cruising, I am not in favor -of sailing by myself. I prefer a congenial -companion to share whatever pleasure -or peril may be encountered. Of course -one must exercise some wise discrimination -in the choice of a cruising companion; -for when once at sea there is no -way of ridding yourself of an objectionable -mate except throwing him overboard, -which would not be exactly fair -to him. Besides, he might throw you -overboard, which would be bad for you. -There are, however, hundreds of good -yachtsmen and boatmen who have made -long voyages alone and have written -charming accounts of their nautical expeditions. -John McGregor's "Voyage -Alone in the Yawl Rob Roy" and E. -Middleton's "Cruise of the Kate" (also -a yawl) are two entertaining books of -sea travel which I heartily recommend to -those who contemplate sailing by themselves.</p> - -<p class='c007'>While I am in favor of a catboat for -general purposes in the neighborhood -of New York, yet when long distance -trips are to be made the yawl rig will, -on the whole, be found preferable.</p> - -<p class='c007'>That keen sportsman, Mr. W. H. H. -Murray, is a firm believer in the yawl -rig for cruising. In <span class='sc'>Outing</span> for May, -1891, there appeared a most valuable -<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>article from his facile pen entitled -"How I sail <i>Champlain</i>." The <i>Champlain</i> -is of sharpie model, thirty feet on -the water-line. She is of remarkably -strong construction, her oaken keel being -sixteen by twenty inches amidships -and tapering properly fore and aft. -Through this keel is sunk a mortise -four inches wide and sixteen feet long, -through which the centerboard works. -This "fin" is of oak planking thick -enough to easily enter the case when -hoisted, but leaving little space between -it and the case when in use. The -centerboard is sixteen feet long, four -feet deep forward and seven feet aft, -and it has fifteen hundred pounds of iron -for ballast. Mr. Murray says: "When -the centerboard is lowered this mass of -metal is eight feet below her water-line, -and guarantees a stability adequate to -resist any pressure which the wind can -put upon her sails and the sails withstand. -Of course I am speaking with -the supposition that the boat receives, -when under stress, judicious management."</p> - -<p class='c007'>The centerboard, which weighs two -thousand pounds, is lifted by a "differential -hoist," by means of which "the -helmsman, with one hand on the tiller, -can, if need occurs, with the other easily -run the heavy board rapidly up into -the case. The value of this adjustment -can only be appreciated by a cruising -yachtsman. It places him in perfect -control of his craft under all conditions -of varying depth of water and difficult -weather. In a heavy seaway; in rapidly -shoaling water on an unknown -coast; when suddenly compelled to -beat up against a swiftly flowing tide; -or when finding himself unexpectedly -near a reef, unobserved through carelessness -or not plainly charted—this -hoist is simply priceless. It is not over -expensive, and can easily be adjusted to -any yacht."</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span> -<img src='images/i_037.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>YAWL IN A SQUALL</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>The cockpit is roomy, and, because of -its high coamings, is also deep. The -cabin is sixteen feet long, the forward -half being permanently roofed. The -after-half of the cabin is constructed, as -to its roof, in equal divisions. The forward-half -is tracked, and the after-half -is grooved to run upon it. Mr. Murray -finds this arrangement most convenient, -as it gives to the yacht such coolness -and comfort as cannot be obtained in a -cabin permanently roofed. The whole -roof is so fitted to the coamings that it -can be quickly and easily removed and -stowed, leaving the yacht to be sailed -as an open one, decked from stem to -midship section. This arrangement is -an admirable one for harbor sailing in -bright weather or for racing.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Regarding the handiness of <i>Champlain</i> -Mr. Murray says: "All yachtsmen -know what a disagreeable job it -is to reef a sloop or cat-boat in rough -water, and from this cause many skippers -will delay reefing as long as possible -and often until too late. And because -of this many accidents happen -yearly. In this respect the yawl rig -<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>shows to the greatest advantage and -commends itself to all sensible yachtsmen. -For when the moment has come -to reef, if the boat is running free her -head is brought up to the wind, the -mizzen and jib sheets trimmed in, and -with the main boom well inboard the -pennants are lashed and the reef points -tied down, when she is let off again and -goes bowling along on her former -course. In <i>Champlain</i> the three reef -cringles on the leech of the mainsail -are all within easy reach from the cockpit, -and the skipper, without leaving the -tiller, can lash the pennants, and hence, -with only one assistant, the three reefs -can successively, if need be, be tied -down. Indeed, so well do the jib and -mizzen sail work in unison, that unless -the wind is very puffy and variable, the -helm can be lashed and she will hold -her course steadily onward while the -skipper is tying down the after reef -points. It is a matter of pleasant surprise -to one not accustomed to this rig -how easily and rapidly a reef in most -trying conditions can be taken in the -mainsail of a yawl whose sails are well -balanced.</p> - -<p class='c007'>"Moreover, unless the squall is a very -heavy one, a yawl can be eased through -it without reefing at all. For when the -wind comes roaring down and the white -line of froth and spray is right upon -you, the boat can be brought up to the -wind and the mainsheet eased handsomely -out, and with jib and mizzen -drawing finely and the mainboom off to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>leeward the wind whistles harmlessly -between the masts, while the yacht, only -slightly disturbed in her balance, sails -steadily along. Or, if the squall is a -heavy one and there is no time to reef -down before it strikes, the yacht can be -luffed up, the mainsail let down at a run, -and with the belly of the sail held within -the lazy-lines the yacht is under safe -conditions. But ordinarily it is better -to reef or even tie down the mainsail -snugly, and as in a yawl it can be done -rapidly and easily there is no reason -why it should not be done and everything -be kept shipshape.</p> - -<p class='c007'>"In cruising I often sailed <i>Champlain</i> -under jib and mizzen alone, with the -mainsail stowed and the boom crutched -and tied snugly down amidships, especially -in the night time when it was -very dark and the weather foul. Under -this scant canvas with a favorable wind -she would sail along at a very fair rate -of speed and even make good progress -in beating up against quite a sea, and I -need not say that it adds greatly to the -pleasure of cruising in a small yacht -with only one man for your crew to feel -that you have your boat in a condition -of perfect control. It is evident that -with no other rig can this condition to -the same degree be obtained or such a -sense of absolute security be enjoyed.</p> - -<p class='c007'>"To an amateur nothing is more trying -than coming to or getting away -from moorings, especially if the wind is -blowing strongly and the anchorage -ground is crowded with other yachts, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>not to speak of vessels of commerce, -bateaux, tugs and ferryboats. Under -such circumstances it is no easy matter -for any, save an expert, to work a sloop -or cat-boat or schooner safety out -through the crowded harbor or basin to -the open water beyond; and it is all -the more trying to a skipper if there is -a strong tide running at the moment. -But with a yawl the difficulties of the -situation are almost wholly removed. -For with mainsail unlashed he can hoist -his anchor or cast off from moorings, -and under his two small sails work his -boat out slowly and safely from the -jammed basin or crowded space within -the breakwater. He must be a tyro indeed -who cannot safely manage a yawl -under the worst possible conditions of -this sort.</p> - -<p class='c007'>"In cruising, if the weather is threatening -it is well to carry a single reef in -the mainsail until it clears up, for a -yawl works well under such a sail with -jib and mizzen furled. In such trim -the yacht is as a cat-boat with a small -sail, and as her main boom is shorter -than a cat-boat's or a sloop's she can be -worked in a very heavy sea with her -boom's end well above the rollers. And -I know of nothing more trying to a -skipper than to sail his craft with his -boom's end half the time under water. -In such a condition the spars, rigging -and boat are under a stress and strain -which every prudent skipper dreads and -seeks to avoid, and it speaks volumes in -favor of the yawl rig to say that with it -<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>such a trying condition can never arise. -Indeed a yawl under a double-reefed -mainsail alone is in perfect trim for -scudding. If well modeled she will -neither yaw nor thrash the water with -her boom's end, but career along almost -with the speed of the wind itself. For -her canvas is low down, as it should be, -and her boom carried well above the -seething water. In this shape, moreover, -she can lay a course with the wind well -over her quarter without strain, and it -must be a very hard blow and rough -water indeed to give anxiety to any on -board of her."</p> - -<p class='c007'>That the <i>Champlain</i> is a capital sea-boat -is beyond question. Her owner -thus describes a run on the lower St. -Lawrence in returning from a cruise to -the Saguenay: "We passed Baie St. -Paul in the evening, whirled along by a -rising gale blowing directly up the river. -The night was pitchy dark, the tide -running fiercely on the ebb at the rate -of five miles an hour at the least. The -water was very wild, as one can easily -imagine. Stemming such a current it -would not do to shorten sail if one -wished to pass Cape Tourmente and get -into quiet water, the Isle of Orleans and -the north shore, so we let every sail -stand, cleated the sheets tightly and let -her drive. How she did tear onward! -The froth and spume lay deep on her -pathways and after-deck. The waves -crested fiercely, rolling against the current, -and the black water broke into -phosphor as we slashed through it. I -<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>do not recall that I ever saw a yacht -forced along more savagely. How the -water roared under the ledges and -along the rough shores of Tourmente! -And I was profoundly grateful when we -were able to bear off to starboard and -run into the still water back of Orleans. -Perhaps that midnight cup of coffee did -not taste well! Its heat ran through -my chilled veins like Chartreuse. I can -taste it yet!"</p> - -<p class='c007'>The ordinary jib-and-mainsail rigged -boat, as seen in the waters round New -York, might easily be improved upon. -In the first place, the majority of them -are too much after the skimming-dish -pattern to suit my fancy. Then the -mast is stepped as a rule too far forward -for the best work, and renders reefing -difficult, as she will not "lay to" comfortably -under her headsail, whereas if -the mast of a boat is stepped well aft, -cutter fashion, the boat will lay to quite -well, and reefing the mainsail is easy. -The American sloop rig is open to the -same criticism, and that is why the English -way of rigging a single-sticker has -been adopted in all our new racing -craft. To my mind there is nothing -more hideous than a "bobbed" jib. It -renders good windward work impossible, -as it causes a boat to sag off to leeward -and is in other ways a detriment. -A small boat with the mast stepped in -the right place and carrying a jib and a -mainsail is, however, a very satisfactory -craft, good at beating to windward as -well as reaching or running. I should -<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>advise that a "spit-fire" or storm jib -be carried along whenever a sail of any -distance is contemplated, and also a gaff-headed -trysail, so that the adventurous -skipper may be always prepared for -storm and stress of weather. This extra -"muslin" takes up little room when -properly rolled up.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The simplest and safest rig in the -world is the leg-of-mutton sail. It is -the one fitted exactly for river work, -where one is sure to encounter puffs of -some force as ravines are reached or -valleys passed. To amateurs it is the -sail <i>par excellence</i> for experimenting -with, for no matter how many blunders -are made a mishap is well nigh impossible. -The leg-of-mutton sail has no gaff, -nor need it have a boom. There is little -or no leverage aloft, and all the power -for mischief it has can be taken out of -it by slacking off the sheet and spilling -the wind. The learner might with advantage -practice with a sail of this -shape until he becomes proficient. If -he eventually determines upon a jib and -mainsail or yawl rig for permanent use, -he may avoid wasting it by having it -made over into a storm trysail.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I would strongly advise every amateur -skipper to shun the ballast-fin device -as he would shun cold poison or a -contagious disease. That is unless he -intends to go in for a regular racing -career, in which case the cups carried -off might possibly compensate him for -the woe, the anguish and the premature -gray hairs inseparable from this contrivance. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>Mind you these remarks of -mine apply only to amateurs and not to -grizzled sailing-masters of yachts who -fully understand how to navigate and -handle all types of pleasure craft. Theoretically -the ballast-fin has many obvious -advantages.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_045.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>TYPE OF FIN-KEEL.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The fin consists of a plate of iron or -steel to the base of which is affixed a -bulb of lead, which, being in the best -possible place, insures stability. The -fin proper gives lateral resistance in an -almost perfect form, for there is no -deadwood either forward or aft and the -least possible amount of wetted surface. -I remember when a little boy in a fishing -village on the bank of a land-locked -arm of the sea, where the water was -always smooth, how we youngsters -came to appreciate fully the worth of -an improvised ballast-fin. We used to -enjoy the diversion of model yacht sailing -and the delights of many regattas. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>I owned one of the smartest models in -the village. She was rigged as a cutter -with outside lead, self-steering gear and -all the latest maritime improvements, -and she generally came out a winner. -I tell you I used to put on a great many -airs on this account, and as a natural -result was duly hated and envied by my -playmates, who owned more or less -tubby craft that could scarcely get out -of their own way.</p> - -<p class='c007'>But the day arrived when my pride -was destined to have a fall. A shrewd -youth of Scottish extraction came to our -village for the summer with his father. -He had the keenest, greenest eye you -ever saw, and one of those money-making -noses that are unmistakable. His -whole physiognomy and form indicated -shrewdness. He mingled with us for -some time on the beach, mudlarked -with the boys and watched our model -yacht matches with undisguised interest. -We all got the notion that he was -an inland landlubber, though it is only -fair to him to acknowledge that he never -told us so in so many words.</p> - -<p class='c007'>One Saturday afternoon, after my -little cutter had surpassed herself by -distancing all her opponents, I indulged -in some unusually tall talk, and challenged -each and every one of my rivals -to a race across the "creek," as the sheet -of water was called, offering to give -them four minutes' start, the distance -being half a mile.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To my surprise, our green-eyed friend -came along and accepted the challenge, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>saying that on the following Saturday -he would produce a craft that would -knock spots out of my cutter without -any time allowance whatever, and without -the aid of a longer hull or larger -sailspread. He also remarked that he -had a month's pocket money saved up, -and was willing to wager it on the -result. I accepted his offer without -superfluous parleying, and in my mind's -eye was already investing that pocket -money of his in various little treasures -for which I hankered. But, for all that, -I made every preparation for the fray, -using very fine sandpaper and pot lead -till my boat's bottom was beautifully -burnished, and seeing that her sails and -gear were in tip top racing condition. -All the boys wondered what sort of a -craft my opponent would bring out. -He had never been seen with a boat of -any description. We laughed in our -sleeves and whispered it about that he -would probably produce one of those -showy vessels that one sees in the city -toy store, and that generally sail on -their beam ends.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The hour for the race arrived. The -boys were all excited and flocked to the -water's edge, whence the start was to -be made. There was a goodly throng -of them present, and, notwithstanding -their contempt for the Scotchman, it -was no doubt the desire of their hearts -that some of my overweening conceit -should be taken down a couple of pegs -or so. Presently my rival appeared on -the scene, carrying in his arms the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>queerest looking craft any of us had -ever seen. Her hull was shaped like an -Indian birch bark canoe, except that to -the rounded bottom a keel was fastened. -A groove was made in the keel, in which -an oblong piece of slate was placed, to -the bottom of which a strip of lead -was secured. The rig was that of a -cutter, and I noticed that her sails were -well cut. She looked quite business-like, -and when she was measured we found she -was two inches shorter than my cutter.</p> - -<p class='c007'>There was a nice, fresh westerly wind -blowing, and quite a lop of a sea running -for diminutive craft such as were -about to race. I had already deemed it -prudent to take in a reef in the mainsail -of my vessel, and set a No. 2 jib, but -my Scotch friend said he thought his -boat would carry whole sail without any -trouble. The course was south, so the -craft had to sail with the wind a-beam. -The start was made, my boat being to -windward, as I had won the toss. And -that was all I did win. The "ballast-fin" -craft beat my cutter so badly that -even at this distance of time my ears -tingle and I feel ashamed. While my -boat was burying herself, her rival took -the curling wavelets right buoyantly, -standing up to her work valiantly, -and moving two feet to the cutter's one. -We accompanied the model yachts in -row-boats, keeping well to leeward, but -quite close enough to observe their -movements accurately. That was my -first experience of the ballast-fin. We -all became converts, and shoal, round-bottomed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>craft, with slate fins to give stability -and lateral resistance, were thenceforward -the fashion. My successful -rival, we afterward discovered, was the -son of a naval architect of repute, and -he is now practising his father's profession -with a good deal of success.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Thus I have not a word to say against -the ballast-fin so far as racing is concerned, -but in cruising the average man -who sails for pleasure wants a craft that -he can haul out of the water easily to -scrub, clean and paint. Now, if you -put a ballast-fin boat on the mud for any -one or all of these purposes she requires -a "leg" on each side to keep her upright, -and also supports at the bow and -stern to prevent her from turning head -over heels. The stationary fin always -represents your true draught of water. -It is always with you and is an integral -portion of the boat's hull. If you happen -to get stuck on a shoal—and this is -a contingency that has occurred frequently -to the most skillful and careful -navigator—in thick weather for instance, -your lot is by no means to be -envied. This is particularly true if the -tide is falling fast. The boat would go -over on her side as soon as the water -got low enough. The crew and passengers -might have to wait aboard -until high water, and a precious uncomfortable -time they would pass I am -certain. When the flood tide made it -might be a moot question whether the -boat would float or fill with water.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The movable centerplate will always -<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>let you know when you get on a shoal, -and will in nearly all cases give you -warning in time to avoid grounding, -which is always an unpleasant predicament -and one entailing much labor. -Then, again, the anchorages at which -small boats can safely lie are generally -pretty shallow at low water and the ballast-fin -is found to be mighty inconvenient -for such places.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_050.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>SAIL PLAN OF FIN-KEEL.</span></p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span> - <h2 class='c004'>V.<br /> <br />THE KNOCKABOUT CLASSES.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>The knockabouts, which had their -origin in Boston, have much to -recommend them. They are free -from freakiness. None of them -at this time of writing have been fitted -with fin-keels to harass their skippers -when they come in contact with the -ground. They have a moderate sail -area, and thus are under control at all -times. In a blow one is as safe aboard -one of these craft as a converted Chinaman -under the lee of his fair Sunday-school -teacher at church-time. The -variety in vogue in Boston in 1897 was -limited to 500 square feet of sail. All -were keel boats, 21 feet being the limit -of length on the load water-line.</p> - -<p class='c007'>This class gained popularity from the -intrinsic excellence of the boats themselves, -combining capital cruising qualities -with fair speed and good accommodations. -Several designers competed, -the restrictions governing their construction, -dimensions, and sail area -being such that the boats were very -even in speed, and the contests in -which they took part were keen, close, -and exciting.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span> -<img src='images/i_052.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>SEAWANHAKA 21-FOOT KNOCKABOUT.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The type of knockabout chosen for -the season of 1898 by the Seawanhaka -Corinthian Yacht Club and the Westchester -Country Club has proved to be quite -admirably adapted for cruising and -racing. They were designed and built -by Mr. W. B. Stearns, of Marblehead, -their dimensions being: Length over -all, 33 feet; on the load water-line, 21 -feet; beam, 7 feet 8 inches; draught, 4 -feet; with board down, 7 feet. The -area of the mainsail and jib contains 550 -square feet. The centerboard is a small -one of iron, and houses below the cabin -floor. The trunk cabin is 8 feet long, -with 5 feet head-room. The price of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>these boats was $750 complete, and, -their construction being sound and -strong, they will, if taken care of properly, -be good for many years.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It is impossible to speak in terms too -high of this class after a surfeit of the -racing machines and freaks like the -20-footers whose alarming antics so -often amused and amazed us whenever -they happened to meet in a reefing -breeze. Another good property they -possess is that they look like boats when -hauled up on the beach, and can never -be mistaken when their masts are unstepped -for pig-troughs or fish floats. -There is no doubt of the seaworthiness -of these craft. They are perfectly safe -in a northwest squall off Sandy Hook -or in a dirty easterly gale on Long -Island Sound.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_053.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>SEAWANHAKA KNOCKABOUT.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Another craft of this type which was -deservedly popular last year is of larger -size than the one described above. She -is 25 feet on the load water-line, 38 feet -<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>over all, with a beam of 8 feet 6 inches, -and 5 feet draught with centerboard up. -The boat, which was designed by Mr. -B. B. Crowninshield, of Boston, has a -commodious cabin with six feet head-room, -a seven-foot cockpit, and 800 -square feet of duck in mainsail and jib. -A very able and roomy boat nearly twice -as costly as the Stearns craft, but indeed -quite a little ship.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_054.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>SAIL-PLAN OF SEAWANHAKA KNOCKABOUT—550 SQUARE FEET.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Personally I favor a short bowsprit in -a knockabout, it being convenient for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>hoisting the anchor, keeping it clear of -the hull, and preventing unseemly dents -from the flukes.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I fear that knockabouts, or raceabouts, -even in restricted classes, are destined -eventually to be fitted with fin-keels. -As a speed-inducing factor the fin has -fully demonstrated its capacity since the -first edition of this little book appeared. -I have not, however, altered my opinion -one iota since my remarks on the ballast-fin -made in the chapter which precedes -this. In my judgment the fin is -admirably adapted as an adjunct to a -racing machine, but for cruising craft I -like it not. Brand me as an old fogy, -if you will; half a century behind the -times, if it so pleases you, shipmates, but -give me credit for sincerity.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The keen sense of rivalry inherent in -every American will not permit him to -be content with a good, honest sailing -boat for cruising purposes only. If one -of his chums comes out with a faster -craft, whether a fin-keel or a modification -thereof, he will become dissatisfied -with his own boat, no matter how seaworthy -and comfortable she may be, and -will promptly discard her for a new-fangled -design in which speed is the -principal characteristic. The so-called -restricted classes, which are so popular -just now, are, I think, sure in the end to -become purely racing classes, something -after the fashion of the Herreshoff 30-footers -now so fashionable in Newport. -As racing boats, none afford more sport -than these wonderfully smart flyers, and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>I can well understand what fascinating -toys they have proved to their owners. -But, after all, they are only toys, vastly -expensive, too, with no accommodations -for cruising and apt to be uncomfortably -wet in a breeze.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The one-design classes of small yachts -are not confined to knockabouts only. -Cruising schooners, designed by Cary -Smith, made their appearance in 1898, -and the class, from a modest beginning, -seems likely to grow. The features of -the boats are their sound and wholesome -characteristics. They possess moderate -draught, large accommodations, and -strength of construction. They are 64 -feet 2 inches over all, 46 feet long on -the load water-line, 16 feet beam, -draught without board 6 feet 6 inches, -least freeboard 3 feet. A rather low -cabin trunk gives full head-room for -the greater part of the yacht's length, -the main saloon being more than 13 -feet long with a floor width of 6 feet 9 -inches. On each side are two berths -and two sofas with drawers beneath. -There is accommodation in the forecastle -for four men. The yachts carry -20,000 pounds of lead ballast, of which -18,000 pounds is on keel. Another one-design -division is the Riverside Yacht -Club dory class, which has been adopted -by many of the clubs enrolled in the -Yacht-Racing Union of Long Island -Sound. These boats are thirteen feet -on the keel, seventeen feet over all, -with four feet beam, fitted with a centerboard -and rigged with a small jib and a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>leg-of-mutton sail. They are for single-handed -racing, but for pleasure cruising -or fishing a man can take his chum -along. Fully equipped with oars, sails, -etc., they cost about forty dollars, and -afford capital sport on fine afternoons. -To encourage this little class, prizes -worth winning are offered by the club, -and sweepstake races are popular features.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The idea was probably taken from -the Nahant Dory Club, organized in -1894, which did much to encourage -sport in this serviceable and inexpensive -class. Spectators will find amusement -in watching "green hands" in -their maiden efforts at sailing these -dories, as strange and startling results -often follow the rash experiments of an -adventurous tyro. But apart from the -comic element, valuable lessons in yacht-racing -may be learned by steering and -manœuvring a dory against a fleet of -half-a-dozen eager competitors. Thus, -yachtsmen cannot help approving this -new Riverside venture, originated, I -believe, by Mr. F. Bowne Jones, of the -Regatta Committee.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The origin of the one-design class was -Dublin Bay, where the "Water Wag" -type was first evolved. A Norwegian -praam with a boiler-plate centerboard, -combining ballast and lateral resistance, -and carrying a big sail, was built in -1878 at Shankhill. She was christened -<i>Cemiostama</i> and proved an ideal boat. -The conditions were a sloping sandy -shore on which the high surf not infrequently -<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>broke, and from which the craft -had to be launched every time her -owner wanted a sail, and onto which -she had to be beached after the cruise -was finished. <i>Cemiostama</i> was a capital -sea-boat; she pointed well, hit what -she aimed at, did not sag off to leeward, -and was quite fast. When the centerboard, -weighing about one hundred -pounds, was raised she ran up easily on -the beach, resting quietly on her flat bottom. -Her centerboard was then lifted -out, and her crew of two hauled her up.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The knowing Irish yachtsmen, appreciating -a good thing, saw that there was -a lot of fun in a boat of this class, and -several were built, and many scrub races -were indulged in. In 1887 the Water -Wag Association was started, the craft -being built on the same lines and the -sail-area being limited. Their dimensions -were thirteen feet in length, with -a beam of four feet ten inches, full lines -and a flat floor.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The Water Wags are presided over by -a king and a queen, bishop, knights and -rooks; and although the boats were at -first used principally for pleasure, they -are now racers pure and simple. Their -headquarters are now in Kingstown Harbor, -and prizes are put up for them at -all the local regattas. They are very -handy, too, and quite admirable for the -purpose for which they were designed. -They cost from $75 to $100, and the -rules that govern their races provide -that they shall be similar in every respect -except sail-plan. The mast must -<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>not exceed thirteen feet over all, measured -from top of keel to truck; the fore -and aft sails must not exceed seventy-five -square feet in area, and the spinnaker -(which is to be used only before -the wind and never as a jib) must not -exceed sixty square feet.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Each boat shall carry no less than -two or more than three persons in a -race, all of whom shall be amateurs. A -member or a lady may steer. No prize -shall be awarded a boat for a sail-over, -but she may fly a winning flag therefor. -A pair of oars and a life-buoy must be -carried in every race. It is only right -to mention that these sailing regulations -are vigorously enforced.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The latest one-design class established -by our rollicking Irish cousins is -known as the 25-footers of the Dublin -Bay Sailing Club. These craft are of -such noteworthy type as to deserve a -few lines of description and approval -here, especially as it was wisely decided -that the type shall not be altered for -five years from January 1, 1898. The -boats, of which quite a number were -built and raced, are deep-keeled cutters -of the following dimensions: Length -over all, 37 feet 3 inches; length on -load water-line, 25 feet; beam, 8 feet 8 -inches; draught, 6 feet 3 inches; lead on -keel, 3 tons 5 cwt., and sail area, 845 -square feet, divided into a mainsail -laced to the boom, gafftopsail, foresail -and jib. A second jib, jibtopsail, balloon -foresail, spinnaker, storm jib and -trysail may also be carried. The design, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>made by Will Fife, Jr., of Fairlie, is -handsome, the type being eminently -adapted for Dublin Bay. Restrictions -of the strictest kind ensure the boats -being exactly alike in size, material, -construction and canvas.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The "Mermaids," a craft much used -by the B division of the same club, are -large Water Wags, 18 feet long, with 6 -feet beam, fitted with centerboards, but -carrying no ballast, and limited when -racing to 180 square feet of sail. These -are vastly popular, and a dozen or so -race every Saturday afternoon during -the season.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Although one-design racing originated -on the other side of the Atlantic, -it is questionable if any one class has -been sailed with more spirit or persistency -than were the Herreshoff 30-footers -at Newport during the yachting -season of 1897 and since.</p> - -<p class='c007'>That the classes are destined to prosper -there is no doubt, the only condition -being that the type must be carefully -adapted to the location for which -it is intended, and the more it is available -for fishing excursions and pleasure -trips the greater favor will attend it. -Another helpful feature is the substantial -economic gain from the construction -of several boats by the same builder -from the same design.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span> - <h2 class='c004'>VI.<br /> <br />KEEP YOUR WEATHER EYE OPEN.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>The sailer of a boat, little or big, -should keep his weather eye -open all the time. When sailing -in a river where the banks -are of irregular height he should be -especially on his guard, because puffs -of considerable violence frequently -come with little or no warning. A -few inches of sheet eased off, and -a gentle luff not quite sufficient to -spill the sail, will generally prevent the -shipping of water over the lee gunwale, -and a possible capsize. Thus the mainsheet -should never be made fast permanently, -and should always be coiled -so as to be clear for running. A neglect -of either of these precautions has often -been attended with fatal results. If by -any mischance the mainsheet becomes -jammed do not hesitate, but cut it. A -sharp knife in such an emergency has -often saved life when an upset has -seemed inevitable through the boat being -nearly on her beam ends. If you -are sailing in a jib and mainsail craft, -and the squall has a good deal of weight -in it, let fly the jib sheet and let the -boat come up in the wind, at the same -time lowering away the mainsail and -taking care to spill it as it comes down. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>A reef should then be taken in, and the -boat be filled away on her course.</p> - -<p class='c007'>While sailing anywhere in the vicinity -of New York, and when one of those -heavy thunder-squalls that are so frequent -in the summer time is seen rising -in the northwest, waste no time. If not -in too deep water, anchor at once and -stow your sails snugly. You can then -ride out the fury of the squall in perfect -safety; that is, if your ground tackle -is sufficiently strong. If your cable -parts and you are on a lee shore and -there is a harbor to run for, scud for it -under bare poles or with a fragment of -sail set. If there is no refuge under -your lee, set as much sail as your boat -can safely carry and thresh her off shore. -The chances are that you will be successful, -because these squalls while often -very dangerous seldom last long, and -are generally followed by a flat calm -which is more exasperating than a blow.</p> - -<p class='c007'>We will take it for granted, however, -that your anchor and chain are of the -correct strength and quality, and that -you bring up before the squall strikes -you. If you have time it would be well -to close-reef your mainsail before furling -it, and then you would be prepared -for any emergency. But let me impress -upon all who are in charge of boats -with women and children aboard, that -it is their duty, when one of those peril-fraught -thunder-squalls is seen approaching, -to dowse every stitch of sail -at once and let go the anchor. There -is a wide gulf between bravado and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>bravery, and no truly courageous man -would imperil the lives of anyone, -especially of helpless women and children. -The rash carrying on of canvas -has been responsible for more loss of -life on the water than any other cause. -It is a seaman who shortens sail in -time, but a lubber who "cracks on till -all's blue."</p> - -<p class='c007'>Great caution is necessary when passing -under the lee of a vessel at anchor -or under way, especially in a fresh -breeze. Your boat is sure to get becalmed -and may possibly nearly lose -her way, so that as she draws clear -of the object the full force of the -breeze will strike her when she has -scarcely steerage way on. The result -may be a complete knockdown or even -a capsize. Therefore have your mainsheet -clear for running, and do not -hesitate to let it fly in a hurry before -your little vessel's gunwale is anywhere -near the water. By all means endeavor -to keep clear of vessels at anchor. Do -not try to get in the wash of steamboats, -as some foolhardy persons do, -"just for fun." On the contrary take -special pains to avoid them. When -you must encounter their wash, which -in the case of large and fast steamers -is heavy and dangerous, do your best -to let your boat take the brunt of the -waves on the bluff of the bow. If they -strike her broadside on, swamping is a -possibility not far remote.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In sailing a boat in rough water the -greatest precaution is necessary. A -<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>craft that in smooth water could safely -carry all sail, might when the sea is -perturbed be forced to stagger along -under double reefs, the force of the -wind being the same in both instances. -Especially is this the case when the -wind and sea are both abeam, the former -strong and the latter heavy. This is -probably the most dangerous point of -sailing there is, and requires the most -careful touch of the tiller. A boat heeled -over to fifteen degrees by the force of the -wind, by the joint influence of a sudden -puff and a heavy roll to leeward may be -inclined to such an angle that a capsize -is inevitable. When there seems to be -any danger of this mishap occurring the -helmsman must not close his eyes to -keep them warm. When he sees a -larger wave than usual coming along he -should put his helm up a little, so that -it may strike the boat abaft the beam and -so reduce the danger to a minimum. -The judicious application of weather -helm in a beam sea has saved many a -big ship's deck from being swept, and -many a small boat from being capsized.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It is in my judgment rash to sail a -small boat under these conditions unless -it is imperative, such as when a harbor -is being entered, or when the boat's -course must necessarily be steered with -wind and sea abeam. I should strongly -advise the hauling of the boat on a wind -until she reaches the point where her -sheets may be eased off and she can be -headed for her destination with wind -and sea on the quarter. A boat with -<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>any pretensions at all can be sailed -close-hauled in rough water with safety -if certain elementary precautions are -observed. Everybody on board except -the helmsman should sit amidships in -the bottom of the boat, so as to keep -the weight as low as possible and the -craft herself in her natural trim. No -unusual weight is wanted in the bow -of the vessel, which should lift in a -prompt and lively manner to each sea. -In an open boat and a nasty sea no -more sail should be carried than will -keep her under proper command.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A great deal depends upon the nerve -and skill of the man at the tiller. Keep -her moving all the time. If a big wave -threatens to come aboard over the -weather bow, luff smartly into it and -meet it as nearly end on as possible. -Then up with the helm at once and fill -on her again, repeating the process as -often as it may be needful. Never let the -lee gunwale get under water in a seaway, -nor at any other time, but always -luff before it is too late, and help her to -come up in the wind if necessary by -easing away the jib sheet.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If the wind keeps increasing and the -sea rising, haul down the headsail and -pass a gasket round it, close-reef your -mainsail, previously seeing your sea anchor -clear for letting go. If you have no -sea anchor with you, rig some sort of a -raft with oars, boathook and sails, the latter -lashed securely to the spars. Make a -line fast to this raft and pay out about -twenty fathoms and let the boat ride to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>it as to an anchor. It is surprising what -a good effect this contrivance has in -breaking the waves and keeping the -boat head to sea. Nothing else can now -be done until the gale moderates sufficiently -for sail to be made and the boat -headed for her destination. It may be -consolatory to those aboard a craft in -such a contingency to buoy themselves -up by remembering that some of the -heaviest gales known have been safely -ridden out in cockleshell boats without -any damage to crew, hull or gear.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_066.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>DROGUE, OR SEA ANCHOR.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The sea anchor consists of a hinge-jointed -galvanized ring about three feet -in diameter. A conical bag made of -stout canvas is sewed to the ring and -roped, as shown in sketch. A bridle is -fitted to the ring, to which the riding -hawser is bent. A cork buoy prevents -the anchor from diving. When thrown -overboard the mouth of the anchor -opens and fills. To hoist the anchor on -board, the tripping line, shown in diagram, -is hauled on. When not in use the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>ring is folded together by the joints, and -the bag is made fast snugly round it.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id004'> -<img src='images/i_067.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>DIAGRAM OF FLOATING ANCHOR.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Another plan for -making a floating anchor -is shown below. K, -M, N, O, are the ends -of two iron bars formed -into a cross and connected -by a stout bolt, nut -and pin at their intersection, -S. At each end -of the bars is an eye -through which a strong -rope is rove, hauled -taut, and well secured. -Thus a square is formed, -and over the square -a piece of strong canvas -is laced to the roping. Four ropes -are made fast to the iron bars, forming -a bridle. To this the riding hawser -is made fast. To prevent the anchor -from sinking, a buoy, B, is made fast -to one corner by a rope, with five or six -fathoms of drift. The buoy rope, P, -leads on board. H is the hawser to -which the boat is riding, A is the anchor, -and B the buoy. To get the anchor -aboard haul in on the line, P. This will -cause the anchor to cant edgewise, and -it can then be easily hauled in.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span> -<img src='images/i_068.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>FLOATING ANCHOR IN USE.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>In scudding before a strong wind and -a heavy sea in a small craft, a trysail is -always preferable to a sail with a boom, -which may effect much mischief by -trailing in the water or suddenly gybing. -The helmsman must be always on the -alert to prevent the boat from "broaching -to," which means flying up in the -wind; or from being "brought by the -lee," which means running off so as to -bring the wind on the other quarter. -A long, narrow boat will always run -before the wind better than a short, -beamy craft, as she is better adapted -for taking the seas, and she also steers -easier, not yawing about so much or -turning round every few minutes to -take a look at her wake. The inexperienced -boat sailer should bear in -mind that scudding in a seaway is ticklish -work, and is not unlikely to be -attended with peril. If you have no -trysail, reef the mainsail and lower the -peak. Hoist on the weather topping -lift so as to keep the boom as high as -possible out of the water. By no means -run a boat before the wind until it blows -too hard and the sea is too high to heave -to with safety. If the breeze seems -likely to pipe up, make up your mind -immediately. Delay is dangerous. -Have your sea anchor ready. Watch -<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>for a smooth. When it comes put your -helm down smartly, trimming in the -mainsheet. When she gets the wind on -the bow, heave your sea anchor overboard -and ride to it either with the -mainsail set or lowered, as may be -deemed best.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If you happen to be on a lee shore, -with the surf breaking high on the -beach, and you cannot claw off, do not -wait until it is too late and your boat is -in the breakers. Let go the anchor, and -if it holds try to ride out the storm. If -your ground tackle gives way, do your -best to set the mainsail and steer boldly -for the shore. The faster you go the -better chance you have to be carried -high and dry. Remember that this will -give you a fighting chance for your life, -whereas if your boat gets broadside on -in the breakers she will most likely roll -over and over and in all probability -drown you and your crew.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It may be thought preposterous for -me to advocate the use of oil to break -the force of curling wave-crests when -a small craft is riding to a raft or sea -anchor. Most people would naturally -suppose that a boat could not carry -enough oil aboard her for it to have -any beneficial effect in smoothing a -turbulent sea. Nor could it if it was -poured into the ocean out of its original -package, or out of "bags with small -holes punctured in their bottoms," as -some marine experts advise. The -proper way to apply oil is to fill a round -bottomed canvas bag, about two feet -<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>long and eight inches in diameter, three -parts full of oakum or cotton waste. -Do not pack too tightly. Pour into this -as much fish or animal oil as the oakum -or waste will suck up. Sew the mouth -up tightly with palm and needle. Secure -a lanyard to it. Make a few holes -in its sides with a marlinespike and hang -it over the lee bow, and you will be -surprised at the result. The seas, instead -of breaking over the boat and -threatening to swamp her, will become -comparatively smooth as soon as they -approach the limits of the film of the oil -as it oozes slowly out of the bag. When -running over a harbor bar where the -sea is breaking badly, a couple of these -bags suspended from either bow will -prevent the waves from pooping the -little craft and help her materially in her -struggle for existence. Mineral oil will -do if no other is available, and a gallon -of it will go a long way if used in the -manner mentioned above. These bags -should be carried all ready for use when -cruising, so that all you will have to do -is to pour the oil in, sew up the mouths -and hang them over the bows by the -lanyards. A ship's boat with a dozen -men aboard once safely weathered an -Atlantic gale by riding to a couple of -buckets and a cork fender saturated -with kerosene. Pouring oil on troubled -waters is by no means a case of bluff or -the dream of an opium smoker, but a -capital "wrinkle" by means of which -many a good man has been saved from -Davy Jones' yawning locker. I trust -that these little bags will form part of -the outfit of all going on long cruises. -They may serve as pillows or may be -made in the shape of cushions, so long -as the above general idea is followed.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span> -<img src='images/i_071.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>THE BOSTON KNOCKABOUT "GOSLING."</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>As a striking instance of the value of -oil in a heavy gale I will quote the case -of the British ship <i>Slivemore</i>, which -took fire in June, 1885, while in the Indian -Ocean about eight hundred miles -northeastward of the Seychelle Islands. -The ship was abandoned and the boats -steered for the islands. Capt. Conly, -of the <i>Slivemore</i>, gave orders that each -boat should take aboard two cans of -paint oil for use in bad weather, and he -also instructed the officer in command -of each boat in the use of the oil. Three -days after the ship was left the boats -encountered a cyclone. Drags made -from spars, oars and sails lashed together -were rigged, and to these improvised -sea anchors the frail craft rode securely. -Stockings filled with oakum saturated -with the oil were hung over the bows of -the boats and formed an oil-slick of considerable -expanse. Before the stockings -were hung out the boats narrowly -escaped being swamped and the men -had to bail hard with buckets. The oil -prevented the seas from breaking and -the boats rode over the enormous waves -in safety. Little water was shipped, and -those on board the boats were able to -lie down and sleep while a tropical -cyclone was raging furiously. All the -boats reached the islands in safety without -the loss of a man, but had it not -<span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>been for the oil the loss of the <i>Slivemore</i> -would have remained an untold -mystery of the ocean.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A still more wonderful example of -the efficacy of oil is told by the captain -of the ship <i>Martha Cobb</i>, and it relates -to the achievement of a sixteen-foot -dinghy. In December, 1886, the <i>Martha -Cobb</i>, petroleum laden, encountered -a heavy gale in the North Atlantic. -She shipped some tremendous seas -which swept away all her large boats, -washed away her bulwarks and played -havoc generally with her decks. The -only boat that was left uninjured was -the aforesaid sixteen-foot dinghy, intended -solely for smooth water work.</p> - -<p class='c007'>While laboring and plunging in the -mountainous sea, the <i>Martha Cobb</i> fell -in with a sinking vessel flying signals -of distress to the effect that the water -was fast gaining on her and that all her -boats were stove in. The captain of -the <i>Martha Cobb</i> determined to stand -by the vessel in distress, in the hope -that the gale would abate. He knew -that his little cockleshell of a dinghy -could not possibly live in such weather, -and that it would be suicidal to lower -her and attempt a rescue.</p> - -<p class='c007'>After standing by till near nightfall -with no prospect of the storm moderating, -the commander of the <i>Martha -Cobb</i> determined to make an effort to -save the crew of the fast foundering -craft. The <i>Martha Cobb's</i> petroleum -was in casks, some of which leaked. -The captain had noticed that when the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>pumps were being worked the sea in -the wake of his ship was always much -smoother. He got the <i>Martha Cobb</i> to -windward of the wreck and started the -pumps, in the hope that the oil in the -well and bilges would create a smooth -when it reached the sea, so that the -dinghy could be lowered in safety.</p> - -<p class='c007'>He found, however, that the ships -drifted faster than the oil, so that while -the sea to windward was comparatively -smooth the water to leeward was rough -as ever. So he kept his ship away, ran -down under the vessel's stern and luffed -up under her lee. Then he started the -pumps and also allowed a five-gallon -can of fish oil to trickle into the water -through the scuppers. The effect was -almost miraculous. In less than half-an-hour -the crested surges and breaking -combers were converted into long heavy -swells such as you see when a calm has -succeeded a heavy gale.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The little dinghy was lowered, and -manned by three men was pulled to -windward alongside the wreck with little -difficulty. All hands were rescued, -and the tiny boat, while engaged in the -gallant work, shipped no water. All this -time the waves were breaking furiously -outside the magic limit of the oil-slick.</p> - -<p class='c007'>One more illustration and I am done. -Capt. Amlot, of the steamer <i>Barrowmore</i>, -on January twenty-fourth, 1885, while in -51 degrees north latitude and 21 degrees -west longitude, fell in with the sinking -ship <i>Kirkwood</i>. This ship had for part of -her cargo several hundred casks of canned -<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>salmon. In order to make a smooth -and allow the boat of the <i>Barrowmore</i> -to come alongside in safety, the crew of -the <i>Kirkwood</i> broached a number of the -cases, and opening the cans poured the -oil from them into the sea. This had -the desired result, and although the sea -was very heavy the oil reduced it rapidly, -and the boat of the <i>Barrowmore</i> had -no difficulty in taking off the twenty-six -men that composed the ship's company -of the <i>Kirkwood</i>.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Two quarts of oil used per hour will -produce effective results. A ship scudding -before the wind, with a mountainous -sea running and threatening to -poop her, has expended this amount and -kept dry. Experts have calculated that -this quantity of oil has covered the sea -with an infinitesimal film measuring -thirty feet in width and ten nautical -miles in length. As the thickness of this -film is only .0000047 of an inch, its efficacy -is indeed marvelous.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A simple and excellent device for distributing -oil has been invented by Capt. -Townsend, of the United States Signal -Office. It is cheap and convenient, and is -especially adapted for use in boats or -small yachts. It has been thus described:</p> - -<p class='c007'>"It consists of a hollow metal globe -ten inches in diameter, with a capacity of -about one and a-half gallons of oil. It -has an air chamber separated by a partition -to keep it afloat in a certain position, -and there are two valves. When -filled with oil the upper valve is adjusted -to allow oil to flow out at any desired -<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>rate, while the lower valve admits -water. When placed in the sea it floats -with the upper valve a little above the -surface, and water will enter to displace -the oil from the graduated upper valve. -The specific gravity of oil will keep it -in the upper part of the distributor, and -the motion of the globe on the breaking -waves or swell will insure the ejection -of the oil through the graduated valve -in any quantity."</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_076a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>OIL DISTRIBUTOR.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>This may be used by towing over the -bow when running, or made fast to a sea -anchor when hove to.</p> - -<p class='c007'>People inclined to be skeptical are, of -course, at liberty to doubt the efficacy -of oil to lessen the -dangerous effect -of heavy seas, -but the examples I -have quoted are -simply a few culled -from several hundred -well authenticated -cases.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_076b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>PLAN OF OIL DISTRIBUTOR.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The lesson learned from the Shipwash -lightship ever so many years ago, -has not been without profit and benefit -to naval architects. Let me spin you the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>yarn. The Shipwash lightship is moored -in one of the most exposed places on -the east coast of England, and is thus -continually encountering particularly -heavy seas. It came to pass that the -old lightship was replaced by a new and -scientific vessel. The new-fangled craft -was, however, so remarkably unsteady -and rolled so heavily that to the storm-tossed -mariner beating up the coast her -light appeared to be of crescent shape. -Her crew got scared. They were afraid -she would turn turtle. A surveyor from -the Trinity House was sent aboard, and -he made a report which was submitted -to her designer, who eventually said -the fault complained of could be easily -remedied by the addition of extra ballast. -Accordingly this was done, and -the next gale she rode out her rolling -was worse than ever, and produced -quite a panic among her crew, who -were afraid to go below while the storm -lasted. Another report was made to -headquarters. Other students of naval -architecture were consulted, who not -only advised that the extra ballast -be taken out, but that four tons of lead -be attached to the frame or cage supporting -the light. These instructions -were carried out, and the result was the -steadiest lightship on the east coast.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A vessel will carry herself full of coal -and behave herself in heavy weather. -But when she comes to be laden with -copper ore or lead, a certain amount of -ingenuity has to be used in the storage -of such heavy cargo to make her seaworthy -<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>at all. If it were all stowed in -the bottom of the vessel she would roll -so heavily in a seaway as to get dismasted, -and would probably become a -total wreck. It is now that the experienced -art of the stevedore comes in. -The man who follows the proper authorities -would construct a bin or compartment -in which to stow this dangerous -freight thus:</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_078a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 1</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The result would be highly satisfactory. -The vessel's center of gravity -would be the same as though she were -laden with coal, and her movements in a -seaway would therefore be quite as easy.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Another man might construct his -compartment thus:</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_078b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 2</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The vessel in this case would labor -quite heavily on the slightest provocation -and would not be so steady or so -seaworthy as the one first mentioned, -with the narrow bin or compartment -extending to the upper deck.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>The same remarks apply to the ballasting -of yachts. Before the days of -outside lead, when pleasure craft shifted -their racing for a cruising rig preparatory -to a deep-water voyage, it was -customary to raise the inside lead ballast -by placing layers of cork beneath it, -thus ensuring easy movements in a seaway. -Racing yachts nowadays have -all their weight outside, and this device -for their relief cannot therefore be -resorted to. When crossing the Atlantic, -say for a race for the <i>America's</i> Cup, -they are always in danger of getting -caught in a gale of wind and an accompanying -mountainous sea. In order to -prevent excessive rolling, which might -endanger the mast and consequently the -vessel herself, it is necessary to keep a -press of sail set. For this purpose a -trysail with plenty of hoist to it is indispensable. -It should not be one of those -jib-headed impostors that some racing -skippers most unaccountably affect, but -one with a good long gaff that will successfully -prevent the otherwise inevitable -and peril-fraught roll to windward.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A yacht under these circumstances, it -is true, cannot carry a great press of -canvas when on the top of one of those -big rollers that a gale soon kicks up in -the Atlantic. But she wants as much -of her sail area as possible exposed to -the gale when she is in the hollow of -the wave. Otherwise there will not be -sufficient pressure to prevent her from -rolling to windward.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Rolling to windward—easy enough to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>write, you may think—but every sailor -knows what may follow. Green seas -fore and aft, mast sprung, men washed -overboard; and if the gale does not -abate, why, Davy Jones' locker for all -hands and the cook!</p> - -<p class='c007'>The storm trysail must necessarily be -a sheet-footed sail set over the furled -mainsail. It is a sail comparatively -narrow at the foot, but it should for obvious -reasons be made as broad as possible -at the head, in proper proportion -of course to the breadth of the foot. It -need not have quite as much hoist as -the mainsail, for the throat halyards at -such a time must have a good drift, -while to keep the sail inboard the peak -should be quite extreme. It follows, -therefore, that although the rollers may -be high the peak of the trysail is above -them, and the yacht is kept jogging -along steadily without any sudden and -violent shocks or strains to spar or rigging.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The following rough sketches will, I -think, serve to demonstrate the superiority -of the gaff-headed trysail over -that abortion, the thimble-headed variety, -which I do not hesitate to condemn -as useless for a modern yacht -ballasted with outside lead in a seaway.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_080.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>No. 1 shows vessel with gaffheaded -<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>sail on the crest of a wave. She drops -down into the hollow of the wave and -becomes No. 2. The shaded part of the -sail catches the wind over the crests of -the waves, and the area so exposed is -sufficient to steady the vessel and give -her a safe heel or list.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_081.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Now I wish to call your attention to -No. 3. She has enough sail spread when -on the crest of a wave. But observe her -when in the hollow. She has scarcely a -stitch of sail above the level of the crest. -The consequence is that her weight -being so low down, and her form having -so much stability, she swings with a -violent roll to windward and her mast -is thereby imperilled. This is the result -of not having the requisite amount of -pressure at the head of the sail.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The commanders of square-rigged -vessels always bear this in mind. They -heave to under a close-reefed maintopsail, -never under a lower course, and the -ship when in the trough of the sea has -enough sail exposed to keep her steady. -The smart schooners that used to ply -between St. Michaels and London in the -fruit trade, and that were bound to make -smart passages or lose money, were -always fitted with gaffheaded trysails, -and found them most efficacious in beating -<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>to windward in strong gales. Their -sturdy skippers would have looked with -contempt and ridicule upon any person -so fatuous as to recommend a jibheaded -trysail. And they were skilled sailors -of fore-and-aft rigged craft, and were -well acquainted with that stretch of the -wild Atlantic between the Lizard and -the Azores. These vessels used to beat -up the English Channel in the teeth of -an easterly gale and fight their way -homeward inch by inch, and I consider -the practical experience of their captains -as far more reliable than the theoretical -vagaries of men who were never -out of soundings in a small craft.</p> - -<p class='c007'>What is true of comparatively large -yachts in an Atlantic gale applies -equally to the small cruiser. The theory -is precisely the same, and in ordering a -storm trysail from his sailmaker the -aspiring owner of a smart, seaworthy -cruiser might well be guided by the few -hints given above. A gaffheaded trysail -is just what he wants to steady his boat -when hove to, and to counteract that -tendency toward rolling that outside -lead always has on the hull of a boat in -a seaway.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When coming to anchor at any other -time than low water, do not forget to -allow for the fall of the tide. For instance, -if you bring up in 10 feet of -water when the tide is high, in a boat -drawing, say 5 feet, and the range of rise -and fall is also 5 feet, at low water your -vessel would be aground and perhaps -under untoward circumstances in danger -<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>of damage or even total loss. This hint -is worth remembering in many parts of -the world, especially in some parts of -the Bay of Fundy, where there is a -range of no less than 50 feet! Soundings -on the chart denote the depth at -mean low water.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_083.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span> - <h2 class='c004'>VII.<br /> <br />OVERHAULING THE YACHT.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_6 c005'>No matter how small a craft the -yachtsman owns she will, after a -winter's lay-up, require a good -deal of attention before she is fit -for the water; and there is no reason -why a keen yachtsman who owns a tidy -little craft should not fit her out himself -in his spare time. In fact, I am acquainted -with many boat-owners who find -nearly as much delight in getting their -own vessels into proper fettle for the -season's sport as they do in navigating -them. There is much to be said in favor -of this enterprise. The principal argument -is that a man overhauling the hull -of the boat which belongs to him will -not be at all likely to "scamp" the work. -On the contrary, it is to his interest to do -the job thoroughly while he is about it, -for he is improving his own property; -whereas if he employs a mechanic to do -it by piece work, or by the day, the task -may be performed in a manner more or -less perfunctory, or at any rate without -the attention to minor details which the -actual proprietor would be expected to -bring to the task.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I would not counsel a man to attempt -repairs which call for the skilled -shipwright or boat-builder. The result -would in all probability be a lamentable -<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>failure, and in the end a mechanic would -have to be called in. But the work of -cleaning, painting and varnishing a hull -intrinsically sound may be accomplished -by the man or boy of average intelligence -and industry.</p> - -<p class='c007'>What is true about a hull is still more -so of her rig. When I first went to sea -on a deep-water voyage, as soon as the -ship was out of soundings the crew's -first duty was to undo the work of the -professional rigger, stay the masts anew -by shrouds and backstays, and replace -the hurried botch-work of knots and -splices by seamanlike and shipshape -work.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Anything in the shape of a boat may -be made water-tight, no matter how -leaky she may be, if treated with careful -ingenuity. I would be the last man -to suggest patching and puttying up -a ramshackle craft whose frames and -planking are rotten. Supposing, however, -that the hull is fairly sound, but -through exposure to the hot sun her -planks are cracked in sundry places, and -that in fact she leaks like a sieve, there -is no reason why she should be condemned. -There is a lot of good fun to -be got out of a craft of this kind, if the -proper repairs are made. If put in the -hands of a professional boat-builder the -cost would be very high, even if he -could be induced to undertake the work. -Here, then, is where a handy man or -boy has a capital opportunity to try his -hand as a craftsman. I repaired an old -18 foot boat in my younger days, when -<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>money was scarce and I had the alternative -of giving up my pet diversion of -sailing or making the ancient bucket -tight.</p> - -<p class='c007'>This is how I went about it.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The craft in question was hauled out -on the shore above high-water mark. -She had been abandoned by her rightful -owner, who had moved inland and left -her to the tender mercies of the sun in -summer and the snow in winter. For -sixteen months she lay on the beach -neglected. Every day I cast covetous -eyes on her. I will make a clean breast -of it now in my old age and confess that -I had contemplated stealing her. That -sin was, however, spared me, as I found -her owner's address and wrote, asking -if he would sell her. He replied that -he would give her to me and welcome, -and thus made me the happiest youth -in the land.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The boat was originally a first-class -little lap-streaker of good model, built -of teak throughout and copper-fastened; -but there were many cracks in her -planks and most of her fastenings were -loose, and in a general way she might -be described as "nail-sick" all over. -With the help of a couple of chums I -placed her on chocks and shored her up -on an even keel, supporting her well, -so that she should not suffer from any -unequal strain when I filled her later on -with water. She was very dirty inside, -and I remember it took me the greater -part of a day to thoroughly clean her -with soap, hot water and a scrubbing -<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>brush. Then I put the plug in and -started to fill her up with water. Although -I had plenty of help from the -village boys, who were never so joyous -as when pottering about a boat, it took -a long time to fill her, for the water -poured out of her like the streams from -a shower-bath. But her dry and thirsty -planks soon began to swell a little and -the leaks to diminish. I kept her as -full of water as possible for two or three -days, marking with chalk every leak -that appeared. I may remark that the -chocks on which her keel was raised -were high enough for me to crawl completely -under her bottom and get at -every part of her. Her hull, which -originally had been varnished to show -the grain of the natural wood, was pretty -well checkered with chalk-marks by the -time I had finished. Then I let the -water drain out of her, and waited until -she was dried thoroughly by wind and -sun.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Meanwhile I bought a lot of copper -nails of the requisite length and rooves -to match, with the use of which I -had become thoroughly familiar from -watching the men in the boat-shop -hard by.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Then I began operations, aided by an -apprentice from the boat-builder's establishment -whom I induced, by the proffer -of pocket money, to turn out of his bed -at dawn and lend me a hand till the -clang of the bell summoned him to his -daily toil. We replaced all the rivets that -had worked very loose with new ones -<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>of a larger size, and drove an additional -nail between every two originally driven. -The old nails, which were only a little -slack, I hardened with a few taps of the -hammer from the inside, while Toby, -the afore-mentioned apprentice, "held -on" against the heads of the nails with -another hammer on the outside. This -was slow and tedious work, but it paid -in the long run, for it made the boat -almost as good as new, her frames, as I -have already mentioned, being in capital -condition.</p> - -<p class='c007'>My next operation was to borrow a -pitch-kettle from the boat shop and to -put in it a pound of pitch and a gallon -of North Carolina tar. Kindling a fire -under it I let it boil until the pitch -had melted, stirring it constantly. This -mixture I applied boiling hot to the inside -of the boat with a paint-brush, filling -every crevice and ledge up to the -level of the underside of the thwarts. -It was astonishing what a quantity of -this composition the planks absorbed. I -put only half a ladleful of the tar into my -paint-pot at a time, so that it should not -stand long enough to cool, replenishing -every few minutes from the boiling -kettle. Tar when at the boiling point -is comparatively thin, and has superior -penetrative qualities, so it can be worked -with the point of the brush into every -crevice, no matter how minute. When -it hardens it forms a water-tight seam -which possesses, from the nature of its -ingredients, a certain amount of elasticity.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>There were a number of sun-cracks in -the planking, which I filled with fish -glue, run in hot from the outside. This -composition dries very hard and does -not crack. My next task was to sandpaper -the outside, smoothing the very -rough places with pumice-stone after -wetting them well. I ached all over by -the time this process was completed but -I got her as smooth as glass. Then I -gave her outside a couple of good coats -of raw linseed oil applied on a hot day. -As a finish, not caring to waste money -on varnish, I gave her a final coat of -boiled linseed oil, in which a generous -lump of rosin had been melted. This -is the mixture used from time immemorial -by the Dutch on the bottoms -and topsides of their galliots, and it -wears well and looks well, resisting the -action of both fresh and salt water. I -may say that this method of making -my boat water-tight was economical and -successful. The example may be followed -with similar results by anybody -who owns a leaky lapstreak craft.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Another method, as practiced on a St. -Lawrence skiff that was badly checked -and rotten in places, is thus described -by a veteran boatman who made the successful -experiment: "The boat was of -lapstreak construction, and many of the -seams had opened. I went entirely over -the boat, first closing the seams as much -as possible by drawing together with -clout-nails. Next, where there were -cracks through the 3/16-inch planking, -I cleaned the painted surface, and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>where the paint had blistered I removed -all of it by scraping. When the surface -was in proper condition I cut a -strip of eight-ounce duck of a length -and width to cover the crack (generally -3/4 inch was wide enough) and smeared -one side, by means of a stick, with liquid -glue. The canvas was applied to the -crack and pressed down, and the glue-stick -drawn over the raveled ends from -the center outward, to make them adhere -closely to the boat. Then the canvas -and surrounding wood were brushed -over with enamel paint. The painting -must be done before the glue sets, as -otherwise the canvas is apt to warp. -Open cracks 1/8 inch wide were covered -in this manner, and also cracks at the -butts of the strakes. After all of the -cracks were treated I gave the boat two -good coats of paint over all, and the -result was a comparatively smooth surface, -and one that was absolutely watertight." -The veteran very truly adds -that an old boat repaired in this way -will not stand any rough usage, and the -patches are not proof against being -dragged over rocks, or even a sand-beach; -but by a little labor a boat that -is practically worthless may be so made -serviceable for an indefinite time.</p> - -<p class='c007'>By either of the methods mentioned -above a lapstreak boat may be made -tight as a bottle. A carvel-built craft—that -is, one with the planks flush, edge -and edge, and the seams between -calked and payed—may generally be -made tight by recalking her with threads -<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>of cotton prepared for that purpose and -sold by ship-chandlers, driving the cotton -well home with iron and mallet, and -afterward puttying up the seams. Care -should be taken, however, not to put -the cotton in too tight, or drive it right -through the seam. Serious damage has -often been done to a boat in the way -of increasing her leakiness by too hard -calking. Or the boat's hull may be -completely covered with light duck -nailed on with copper tacks, and afterward -well painted. This, however, is -rather difficult for a greenhorn to accomplish -so as to make a neat fit of it; but -I have seen several boats repaired and -renovated in this manner by young men -gifted with ingenuity, and a great deal -of patience. I may say that the result, -if the work is well done, is worth the -pains thereon expended.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Rowboats, sailboats, and launches -propelled by any kind of power may -have their hulls treated after one of -these fashions, with quite satisfactory -results.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If the owner does not think he is -sufficiently handy to undertake the stopping -of leaks he can, at any rate, paint -and varnish his craft. To paint a boat -outside or inside a perfectly smooth -surface is necessary, and to obtain this -all rough spots should be smoothed with -pumice-stone and sand-paper. Enamel -paint should be used above the water-line, -and the bottom may be painted -with any one of the excellent compositions -now in the market, which prevent -<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>grass and barnacles from flourishing too -luxuriantly on the underbodies of boats.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The interior of the boat, after being -thoroughly washed and scrubbed, should -also have a coat or even two coats of -enamel paint, as this composition is -lasting and wears three times as long -as the ordinary preparation of white -lead, oil, turpentine, and pigment. One -thing, however, is worth remembering. -Never use washing soda or boiling -water to clean wood covered with enamel -paint. Rub it with a sponge or flannel -cloth dipped in lukewarm water and a -little soap. For protecting and beautifying -natural wood above deck or below, -use a good brand of spar varnish. This -will resist the damp, salt air of the -ocean, or the more penetrating moisture -of fresh-water lakes and rivers, far -better than the higher grade of varnish -used for the indoor decoration of dwelling -houses, which, when it gets damp, -acquires a plum-like bloom on its surface -by no means beautiful.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Mr. W. Baden-Powell, than whom -there is no better authority, says very -truly, that there is no more dangerous -time in their lives for the spars of -canoes than when stowed away in a -boat-house roof for the damp winter's -rest. Bamboo spars are more liable to -suffer than pine, or solid spruce, but -each and all are in danger of splitting -or kinking, especially so in the case of -built spars, if glued up, instead of screw-built. -With such convenient lengths as -are found in canoe spars, there is no -<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>excuse for leaving them in damp boat-houses, -as they can be stacked in a room -corner, on end, and the sails and rigging -in drawers or boxes. In this way each -item of rigging can be overhauled, -mended, improved, and set in order for -the coming year, just as convenient -spare time offers.</p> - -<p class='c007'>About the middle of March in these -latitudes we generally are blessed with -ideal sailing breezes, a trifle blustering -and boisterous, perhaps, when the -merry music of the stiff nor'wester -pipes through the rigging, but nevertheless -vastly enjoyable to the ardent -amateur, who grasps the tiller of his -stanch shippie and fearlessly luffs up -to the strident puffs, knowing that -he has a stout hull beneath him, -and that sails and gear are of trusty -strength.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It is all very well for the steam-yachtsmen -and such-like marine Sybarites -to wait for the hot days of July to -arrive before ordering their floating -palaces to go into commission, but he -who depends upon sails can ill afford to -allow all the glorious winds of the fresh -and fragrant springtime to blow themselves -to waste in such reckless, feckless -fashion. There may be a chilly -sting or bite in the spray that breaks on -the weather bow in a silver shower and -smites the helmsman mercilessly in the -face, but there is invigorating ozone in -wind and water, and a glow of triumph -after a successful battle with breeze -and billow.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span> -<img src='images/i_094a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>IN DRY DOCK.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_094b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Photo by Dr. Titus.</span><br /><br /><span class='small'>HAULED OUT FOR PAINTING.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>It is prudent, too, to fit out early and -lay up late, for life, alas! is brief, and it -behooves us, my boating brethren, to -enjoy as many brave sailing days as -possible ere we make our final voyage -across the Styx, with grim Charon, the -ferryman, taking his perennial trick at -the tiller, while his pets, the frogs, -plash and play and croak in his muddy -wake.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If the yacht is a small one—a knockabout -or a 30-footer—and she has wintered -afloat, the first thing is to haul -her out and prepare to clean her hull of -barnacles and grass, of which a goodly -crop is sure to have grown on her below -the water-line. Start in with scrubbing -brushes, sand and canvas and use plenty -of elbow grease until she is thoroughly -cleaned and all rough places smoothed -with pumice stone. Use plenty of fresh -water, with a flannel cloth as a final -application to her hull. Then leave her -until she is thoroughly dry. Carefully -examine her seams for leaks, calking -where necessary.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When your boat is out of water open -her wide to the fresh air. Rig up a -windsail, and let the healthful breezes -circulate through her interior. If she -has hatches or skylights, lift them off; -if portholes, unscrew them and give the -wind a chance to blow all close impurities -away. Rig the pump and relieve -her of all malodorous bilge water, the -most nauseating and offensive evil that -is met with by mariners. Take up the -cabin flooring. If the ballast consists of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>pig iron, rout it out, clean off the rust, -and before replacing give it a good coat -of coal tar, applied hot. Clean the -limbers and flush them with plenty of -water, using a bristly broom to remove -the dirt. Splash the water about lavishly, -and then pump it out dry. If there -happens to be a cooking stove below, -as there generally is in a vessel of any -size, light a roaring fire and do your -best to kill all fungoid germs or spores -that may have gathered in damp places -during the winter. Examine the ceiling -for leaks.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Should, through imprudent oversight, -any bedding, matting, carpet, or clothing, -have been left in the boat since last -season, take them out and have them -cleansed and dried. If mold and mildew -have attacked them, destroy without -compunction, and resolve to take -better care next time.</p> - -<p class='c007'>After thoroughly cleansing the craft -inside from the eyes of her to right aft -with soap and hot water, you can paint -her cabin, if you deem she needs it, -using enamel paint if you are willing -to go to a little extra expense, or, at any -rate, if not, using a generous quantity -of spar varnish with the oil and dryers -you mix your white lead with. This -dries good and hard and is easily -cleansed with warm water, soap and a -sponge, and is far more durable and -satisfactory than paint mixed in the -ordinary manner. Two coats should be -given.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The next process is to clean the deck -<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>of the coat of varnish with which it was -doubtless covered when the yacht was -prepared for the winter. To accomplish -this in the most efficacious manner, procure -from a ship chandler a sufficient -quantity of one of the many preparations -of caustic soda, with which the -market is well equipped. Dissolve it in -an iron bucket in hot water, mixing it -strong enough to act as a powerful detergent. -These preparations vary in -power, so it will be well to experiment -on a section of the deck with a sample -and then add more soda or more water -as required.</p> - -<p class='c007'>After sundown apply plentifully to -the deck with a mop, rubbing the mixture -well into the planks. Next morning -before sunrise arm yourself with a good -hard deck-scrubber, and set to work in -earnest, using plenty of hot water and -scrubbing the deck planks (fore and -aft, mind you, always, and never athwart-ship) -until every particle of the old -varnish and every speck and stain is removed. -If the detergent is allowed to -remain on the deck while the sun is -shining, it is bound to eat into the planks -and burn them.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The next operation is the painting of -the boat inside and out. There are -many excellent compositions for coating -the hull below the water-line, but if -you do not care to experiment with -them, use the recipe given in the chapter -on "Useful Hints and Recipes." -Choose a clear, dry day and apply the -paint. For above the water-line use -<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>pure white lead of the best quality -reduced to the proper consistency with -equal parts of raw and boiled linseed -oil and copal varnish. Add a dash of -dryers and a few drops of blue paint, -strain and apply.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Personally, I prefer to varnish the -deck of a small craft, though I am quite -willing to acknowledge the superior -beauty of a spotless deck white as a -hound's tooth. The friends of a yachtsman -often wear boots with ugly nails in -them, both on soles and heels, and these -are apt to play havoc with the spick and -span appearance of a deck innocent of -varnish. After cleaning the decks thoroughly -let them dry well. Wait for a -sunny morning and a northwesterly -wind, when the air is comparatively free -from moisture. Get your can of spar -varnish out, and after sweeping the -decks and dusting them thoroughly with -a feather-duster, apply with a regular -varnish brush of convenient size. It is -advisable to pour out the varnish into a -shallow jar, a marmalade pot for instance, -in small quantities as required, -as varnish loses its virtue rapidly by exposure -to sun and air. It is expedient, -therefore, that the varnish can, or bottle, -should never be left uncorked. The -varnishing process should not be undertaken -until the last thing, after the boat -has been cleaned and painted inside and -out, spars and blocks scraped and polished, -standing rigging set up, running -rigging rove and sails bent. Two thin -coats of varnish will be ample for the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>decks and spars, as well as all the hardwood -fittings and trimmings of the yacht -inside and out.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Should the varnish be too thick to -flow freely from the brush, <i>don't</i> thin it -with oil or spirits of turpentine unless -you wish to dim its luster and deprive -it of much of its preservative quality. -Simply place the varnish can in a bucket -of hot water, and let it remain there -until it gets warm, when you will experience -no difficulty in applying it to -advantage. Another hint worth taking -is never to buy cheap and inferior varnish. -The best is none too good.</p> - -<p class='c007'>These suggestions may appear superfluous -to a professional yachtsman, who, -if he happens to read this yarn, might -feel tempted to observe: "Why, every -darned chump knows that!" As a matter -of fact, amateurs as a rule are not -familiar with these little "wrinkles," -which are in many cases tricks of the -trade. This yarn is spun for amateurs -only, and not for the edification or instruction -of veteran professionals. About half -a century ago, when I first became a boat -owner, I should have been delighted to -get the fruits of a practical man's ripe -experience.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fashionable craft with spoon bows -and long overhangs forward have abolished -the long bowsprits and simplified -the head gear. The short bowsprit is -secured with a steel bobstay extending -from the stem to the cranze iron on the -bowsprit, the bobstay being set up taut -with a turnbuckle of galvanized iron. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>The bowsprit shrouds are of steel wire -also set up by turnbuckles.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The polemast has also done away with -all the topmast gear, the mast being secured -by a forestay which sets up to the -stem head and by one or sometimes two -shrouds on each side set up by turnbuckles. -The days of deadeyes and -lanyards and of reefing bowsprits are -departed. A sailor to be quite down-to-date -should combine with his nautical -knowledge some of the art of the -blacksmith. Strength and lightness and -handiness are the watchwords of to-day, -and with modern methods the gear of a -small craft is so simple that it takes little -time to rig her.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I suppose I may take it for granted -that all the running rigging was neatly -coiled up and labeled and stored ashore -when you went out of commission last -fall. I know many smart young yachtsmen -who while away many a long winter -evening with pleasure and profit -overhauling sheets and halyards, stropping -blocks, varnishing them, splicing, -serving and generally repairing all of -the running gear that needs attention, -making manropes, scraping and polishing -the gangway ladder, the tiller, etc., -and in other ways preparing for their -summer's amusement. The study of -navigation, the rule of the road at sea, -the coast pilot, the learning of marlinspike -seamanship and a rudimentary -knowledge of the use of the palm and -needle, so that if a sail should need -some simple repairs they may be made -<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>without loss of time and without seeking -aid from a sailmaker—all these the -amateur will find useful. It is astonishing -how much one can learn in one -winter if he devotes only an hour a night -to the acquirement of nautical lore.</p> - -<p class='c007'>But supposing that his running gear -has not been touched since it was unrove, -it will take only a short time to -get it in tip-top order, and the work may -be done in the evening when it is too -dark to potter about the yacht.</p> - -<p class='c007'>While you are about it you may as -well make a thorough job of this fitting -out. Shin up the mast and make a tail-block -fast to the masthead as high as -possible, reeving a gantline through it -so that you may sit in a boatswain's -chair or in a bowline while you survey -the stick. If the collars of the shrouds -or forestay show any sign of chafe, they -must come down and be served over -again with spun yarn or covered with -canvas sewn on with a palm and needle, -using plenty of lead colored paint in the -process to prevent rust. Examine the -masthead carefully for weak parts, which -generally are to be found in the wake -of the rigging. If rot and signs of -serious strains are met with, it is evident -that a new mast is needed. Longitudinal -cracks may be disregarded unless -they are glaringly apparent, but transverse -cracks should be viewed with -suspicion.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If, after close inspection, you conclude -that the mast is good enough to stand, -you may as well begin to scrape it, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>engaging your chum to lower you down -by your gantline. After scraping, use -sandpaper until it is polished smooth. -Then give it a couple of coats of spar -varnish. If the boat has a bowsprit, -treat it in the same way. If she carries -a topmast, scrape and varnish it and the -boom, gaff, spinnaker-boom, boathook -and the oars of your dinghy as well as -all blocks ashore, wherever convenient.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Next set up your rigging good and -taut, taking care to stay the mast perfectly -plumb—no rake aft or forward. -If you carry a topmast, send it up and -stay it in the usual way. Get your boom -in position by means of the gooseneck -and the crotch; reeve your topping-lift -and hook it on to its place at the end of -the boom. Get the gaff in place, hook -on the throat and peak halyards, and -there you are all ready to bend sails.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It is imperative that your vessel, -whether she be a cruiser pure and -simple or a racer, should have a well -cut suit of sails. If it is your intention -to treat her to the luxury of a brand -new suit, I hope that you placed your -order with a responsible sailmaker -weeks ago. The winter is the correct -time to have your sails made, when the -knights of the palm and needle are not -so apt to be rushed.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Yacht owners have the habit of procrastinating -where sails are concerned, -and postpone their orders for new canvas -to the very last moment. This -causes such a hurry in the loft that large -orders are apt to receive the first and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>best attention of the sailmaker, while -the owner of a moderate-sized vessel -has to wait the foreman's convenience; -whereas, if an order is placed before, -say, Christmas, one of the firm is as -likely as not to give the matter his personal -attention, measure your craft -himself, and let the cut and the sit of -the sails have the benefit of his own -supervision. It is also a fact that the -sailmaking firms make it a point to -keep their best men at work all the year -round, while the mere ordinary workmen -are "laid off" when the season -closes. The consequence is that the -yachtsman who orders his sails in good -time has the advantage of the most -skillful craftsmen in the market, and he -is likely, too, to have better prices -quoted him than in the rush of the -season, when all hands are hard at it. -Therefore, my advice is to take early -action and win the best results at the -most favorable figure.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It was always my custom, before unbending -my yacht's sails preparatory to -going out of commission, to summon -my sailmaker aboard and take him for -a short trip, pointing out what I considered -to be the defects in the muslin -and listening to his suggestions for their -remedy. He would make notes in his -memorandum-book and inscribe certain -hieroglyphic marks on the sails themselves. -When the canvas was unbent -he would send for it, make the repairs -and alterations at his leisure and store -the sails for me until the spring, when -<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>I would find them in perfect condition -for setting. All this was done for moderate -compensation, considering the -excellence of the workmanship.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The importance of a well-cut and -well-sitting suit of sails cannot be over-estimated. -No matter how well the -naval architect may have executed his -work in the design of a vessel's hull, if -the sailmaker has failed in his task, success -in racing is an impossibility. You -might just as well expect a fast homing -pigeon to attain his normal speed with -a crippled wing as a yacht to win a cup -hampered by sails of poor material and -faulty construction.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If low-grade material is used, despite -the best efforts of the scientific sailmaker, -the sails are sure to be unsatisfactory. -The climate on the Atlantic -coast is peculiarly trying even to the -finest grades of cotton duck, which is -assuredly the best fabric known that can -be used for the purpose of the sailmaker. -The hot and arid westerly -winds dry out the sails so that they become -soft and open, causing them to -stretch abnormally and to get full of -what are technically termed "hard -places." The wind shifts to the eastward, -a damp, moist quarter, and the result -is a severe shrinking, which, in -conjunction with the previous violent -stretching, is enough to play havoc with -the best and closest woven material, no -matter how scientifically designed and -constructed. You can imagine how a -suit of sails of cheap and common duck, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>botched by some ordinary tentmaker, -would be likely to behave under such -circumstances.</p> - -<p class='c007'>My advice is to order your sails of -a reputable firm of experience, have -them made of the best material, and -take care that they are bent by a man of -judgment and skill and not by some -habitué of a hay-mow or a pig-drover -fresh from the farm. I have known a -suit of sails that cost several hundred -dollars irretrievably ruined by being -overstretched in the first instance by a -sailing-master ignorant of the first principles -of his calling.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A well-known sailmaker, who has -made sails for some of the crack racing -yachts of America, gives the following -admirable instructions for setting the -sails of a 40-foot single-sticker: Cast -off the tyers from the mainsail; hook -on the peak halyards; see that the gaff -goes up between the topping-lifts as -you hoist up on the throat and peak halyards; -hoist up on the throat until the -luff-rope is straight; if the sail has a -slide on the boom, haul out on it till the -canvas is just straight and smooth on -the foot; too hard a pull will throw a -heavy strain on the diagonal, from the -end of the boom to the jaws of the gaff, -giving a bad after leech when the peak -is swayed up; next sway up the luff -pretty taut; it is not necessary to top -the boom up to too great an angle out -of the crotch; man the peak halyards -and hoist on them until the after leech -is so lifted that it spreads and stretches -<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>every square inch of the after angle of -the sail; as soon as the peak begins to -lift the outer end of the boom, the mainsheet -should be made fast (unless the -boom extends so far over the taffrail -that it would bring an undue leverage -on the boom and spring it to breaking); -now sweat up the peak halyards until -the stretch is entirely taken out of the -halyard canvas; if the peak is hoisted -beyond its proper angle, it puts an undue -strain on the diagonal, from the end of -the gaff to the center of effort of the -sail, the consequence being a nasty gutter -just inside the leech, which gives -rise to the groundless complaint that -there is a tight cloth inside the after -leech. It should be remembered that -the trouble lies in stretching the head -and foot of the sail too taut, and over-setting, -the peak.</p> - -<p class='c007'>These instructions are so clear as to -be intelligible to the merest tyro, and -should be followed out on all occasions. -A good mainsail costs a large sum, and -there is no reason why it should be -ruined by neglect of proper precautions.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In setting a thimble-headed topsail -hoist away on the halyards, then -bowse the tack down with a purchase, -then sheet it out to the gaff end so that -there shall be an exact and even strain -on both foot and leech.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The proper angle of the jib-sheet depends -entirely on the position its clew -occupies in relation to the stay. It -should always hold the foot of the sail -<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>a little more than it does the after leech, -so as to allow the proper flow, which is -so effective as well as so beautiful.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If you determine that the craft's old -suit is good enough for another year, -overhaul it for holes. Perhaps the sails -have been stowed away where rats or -mice have had free access to them. If -so, they will need repairs. If they were -rolled up damp, or stored in a damp -place, they will probably be badly mildewed. -The unsightly stains of mildew -can be partially removed by scrubbing -the sail on both sides with fresh water -and soap, and afterward rubbing whiting -over it and leaving it to dry and -bleach in the sun.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If the sails are discolored, they may -be improved by laying them on a plot -of clean sand, scrubbing them on both -sides with sea-water and salt-water soap, -and afterward sprinkling them with -salt-water in which whiting is dissolved -until it looks like milk. Let them bleach -in the sun until one side is quite dry, -and then turn them over.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To prevent mildew from spoiling the -sails, keep them dry and well ventilated. -If a sail is furled when damp, the inner -folds will mildew. Always roll up a wet -sail loosely, and shake it out and dry it -the first chance you get; in any case -open it out and give it air, even if rain -continues to fall. Remember that new -sails will mildew very quickly because -of the "dressing" in the duck, which -sets up a fungoid growth or fermentation. -For these reasons don't depend -<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>too much on your watertight sail-covers, -but give your canvas frequent air -and sun baths if you wish your "white -wings" to remain things of beauty.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The same attention to the sails to -avoid mildew should be given to the hull -to prevent dry rot, which is quite as frequently -caused by the lack of ventilation -as by the use of unseasoned timber -in the construction of a vessel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The principal labor of fitting out has -been described, but the cabin is yet to -be fixed up for occupation, and stores -taken aboard for the opening cruise. It -is well to have a list prepared of the -actual necessities in the way of supplies -that must not be left ashore when -you get under way. Here are a few -things that cannot be dispensed with: -Anchor and chain, small kedge anchor, -tow-rope, life-buoy, side-lights, anchor -light, oil and wicks, bell, foghorn, compass -with binnacle, hand lead, chart of -waters you intend to navigate, dinghy, -either on board or towing astern, properly -fitted with oars, boathook, rowlocks -and plug, all secured by lashings. -A good supply of fresh water should be -taken along, and a stock of provisions -suitable to the tastes of the skipper and -his guests. An awning for the cockpit -may prove a great comfort both in hot -and rainy weather, when becalmed or at -anchor.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I recommend that a storm trysail, a -storm jib and a drogue, or sea-anchor, -form part of the yacht's equipment, and -that they be stowed away in some place -<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>convenient for instant use. Perhaps -they may never be needed, but it is -often the unforeseen that happens, and -in this world of uncertainty it is best to -be always ready for an emergency.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Thus prepared the yachtsman may -safely venture for a cruise, selecting -those waters with which he is most familiar -or most anxious to explore. He -will find April an ideal month for yachting, -and if he puts in his time to the best -advantage he will have his craft "tuned -up" to racing pitch, his amateur crew so -admirably drilled and disciplined, and his -sails and gear in such capital shape that, -if there is really any speed in the craft -at all, prizes should be the inevitable -reward of his skill and his enterprise.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_109.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='pbb'> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span> -<img src='images/i_110.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>"MAKING READY FOR A NEW DRESS."</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span> - <h2 class='c004'>VIII.<br /> <br />FITTING OUT FOR A CRUISE.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_6 c005'>In equipping a boat for a cruise, -even in summer, it is always well -to remember that gales of wind -are not unusual even in July. -I once knew it to blow with spiteful -ferocity in the last week of that -month, and to disperse the Atlantic -Yacht Club squadron and drive them to -seek shelter in various harbors of Long -Island Sound, between Black Rock and -New Haven. Out of the whole fleet -only two yachts reached their destination, -New London. One was the sloop -<i>Athlon</i>, Vice-Commodore E. B. Havens, -on board of which I was a guest, and -the forty-footer <i>Chispa</i>. It was quite -an exciting and hard thrash to windward -in the teeth of an easterly gale, -but we got there. Had not the two -yachts mentioned been properly prepared -for such an exigency, they also -would have been forced to bear up and -run for some land-locked haven in which -to linger until the wind had blown itself -out. Although these summer gales -generally exhaust themselves in twenty-four -hours, they are often quite savage -while they last, and the sensible yachtsman -will always be prepared to meet -them. His standing and running rigging -<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>will be in first-class condition; -whatever storm canvas he carries will -be ready for bending at a moment's -notice; his sea anchor or drogue will -also be at hand for letting go should -the necessity arise.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Of course I need not impress upon the -amateur boat sailer that a compass -should be taken along on a cruise. But -I have mingled a good deal with the -owners of small craft, and have met -many who either did not carry one at -all or, if it was aboard, as likely as not -stowed it away in the same locker with -a hatchet, marlinespike and other tools -not likely to improve it. A compass -should always form part of a boat's outfit. -A fog often makes its appearance -when a party of pleasure seekers are -enjoying a sail on sound or bay, and -when it shuts down on you thick as a -hedge I will defy you not to lose your -bearings, and consequently your way. -In times such as these a compass will -prove a source of great comfort, and instead -of being compelled to anchor and -await clear weather you can steer for -your destination under shortened sail. -In such cases never fail to blow the -foghorn, which should be of regulation -size and not a penny squeaking trumpet -such as a six-year old schoolboy affects. -The ordinary boat's compass will answer -admirably if only short sails are contemplated, -but on a long cruise where a -heavy sea is not unlikely to be encountered, -a fluid compass should be carried. -The motion of a small craft in rough -<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>water causes the common compass card -to jump about so much as to be perfectly -useless to steer by, while a fluid compass -remains steady and reliable under -all circumstances and conditions. There -are several fluid compasses in the market -at a reasonable price, which can be -depended upon in an emergency. The -fluid on which the needle floats is generally -alcohol, to guard against freezing, -and is simply a development of a primitive -compass used by the daring seamen -of the twelfth century. This old-fashioned -instrument consisted of an iron -needle, one end of which was stuck into -a piece of cork. The other end was -well rubbed with a loadstone, and when -the cork was floated in an earthenware -bowl of water the end so treated pointed -to the magnetic North. In spite of the -meager knowledge of those early navigators -concerning variation and deviation, -they generally managed to make a -sufficiently good land-fall. It may not -be generally known that a sewing needle -rubbed on a magnet and carefully -dropped into a vessel of water will float -and point to the North.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The rule of the road at sea requires -vessels in a fog to go at a moderate -speed and to blow the foghorn at intervals -of not less than two minutes; when -on the starboard tack one blast, when -on the port tack two blasts in succession, -and when with the wind abaft the beam -three blasts in succession. It also has -certain imperative rules for a vessel at -anchor in a fog.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>The law provides that a vessel not -under way in a fog shall at intervals of -not more than two minutes ring a bell. -It will be seen therefore that a bell is -quite as necessary as a foghorn. If a -boat at anchor or under way in thick -weather, with neither bell nor foghorn -in use as provided by the law, should be -run into and damaged or sunk by any -other vessel, her owner would have no -redress. On the contrary, if he escaped -with his life he could be forced to pay -for any damage, however trifling, the -vessel colliding with him sustained in -the act. If he was drowned his estate -would be liable.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A bell should form part of the careful -boatowner's outfit. But if you have -neglected providing one, don't despair. -Get out a frying pan or a tin kettle and -kick up as much racket as you can by -beating one or both with a hammer or a -marlinespike. A fishhorn has many times -answered the purpose of a foghorn, -but I would not recommend it as a -steady substitute. All I wish to convey -is that a frying pan and a fishhorn are -better than nothing.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The variety of anchor to be carried -depends very much upon choice. There -are several kinds for sale quite suitable -for small cruisers, all of which have -good points to recommend them.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span> -<img src='images/i_115.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>PLEASANT CAT-BOAT SAILING.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>The law is imperative as regards the -carrying of lights by night when at -anchor or under way. If your craft is -very small, there is a light in the market -fitted with green and red slides to be -shown when required, which may suit -your purpose. But if your craft has any -pretensions to size provide yourself with -a pair of brass side lights and also a -good brass anchor light. Avoid those -flimsy articles with which the market -is flooded. The best are cheapest in -the end. See that all the lamps you -have aboard take the same sized wick. -Buy the brand of oil known as mineral -sperm, which is used by all first-class -steamship lines. Its quality has borne -the test of years and has never been -found wanting. For lamp cleaning take -a plentiful supply of cotton waste and -old newspapers, the last named for polishing -the glass. A hand lead and line -must not be forgotten, while an aneroid -barometer, a thermometer and a marine -clock will be both useful and ornamental. -Do not forget a canvas bucket and -a deck scrubber.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A few tools will be found necessary. -A hatchet, hammer, chisel, file, jack-knife, -gimlet, screw driver, small crosscut -saw and an assortment of screws -and nails will be about all that is essential -in this direction. A few yards of -duck, palm and needles and sewing -twine, a ball of marline, one of spun -yarn and a marlinespike may be stowed -away snugly, and their possession -in case of need is often a great boon. -The adventurous voyager must use his -own discretion as to his wardrobe. -The marine "dude" is in evidence in -our midst, and who am I that I should -condemn a man for trying to look his -<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>prettiest, both ashore and afloat? Don't -forget to buy a good suit of oilers, and -don't fail to slip them on when it rains. -When you come to get to my age, and -feel the rheumatism in your old bones, -you will wish you had followed my -advice.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Tastes differ so widely that it is hard -to advise a man as to his <i>cuisine</i> when -afloat. What would suit an old sea dog -"right down to the ground" might not -be palatable to the nautical epicure with -a taste for humming-bird's livers on -toast, or other such dainty kickshaws. -Personally, I can enjoy a good square -meal of sardines and hardtack, wash it -down with a cup of coffee and wind up -with a pipe of plug tobacco, and conclude -that I have feasted like a prince. -This is probably due to my forecastle -training. Others are more fastidious. -Luckily this is the age of canned viands, -and almost every delicacy under the sun -is put up in convenient form, requiring -only a can-opener to extract the hidden -sweetness.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The culinary difficulty that confronts -the sailer of a small craft is the cooking -stove. Like the servant girl problem, it -is still unsolved. Many great geniuses -have wasted the midnight oil and have -nearly exhausted the gray matter of -their brains in trying to invent a stove -that shall be suitable for a little cockleshell -of a boat with a <i>penchant</i> for -dancing over the waves in lively style. -Some have tried cast-iron stoves with a -smokestack, and coal for fuel, and have -<span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>cursed their folly ever after. Gasoline -stoves, so long as they don't explode and -set fire to the boat, are convenient and -cleanly. Various kinds of alcohol lamps, -hung on gimbals to accommodate themselves -to the perpetual motion of a -vessel, are in use and are thoroughly -adapted for making a pot of coffee, tea -or chocolate, and for heating a can of -soup or preserved meat. A hungry -boatman should not ask for more luxurious -fare. There are preparations of -coffee and milk and cocoa and milk in -cans, which can be got ready in a hurry -and with the least possible trouble. -They are also nice, and I do not hesitate -to stamp them with the seal of my -approval. By looking over the catalogue -of the canned goods of any first-class -grocer, you will find a quantity of -varieties to select from, all of excellent -quality and moderate in price. In order -to provide against waste it would be -advisable if cruising alone to buy the -smallest packages in which the viands -are put up. Hardtack should be kept in -airtight tin boxes to guard against damp. -Matches can be stowed in a glass fruit jar, -and in this snug receptacle defy salt spray -and sea air which threaten the integrity -of brimstone and phosphorus. The -man who indulges in tobacco (and what -lover of the sea does not?) will find it -well to pack a supply of wind matches in -a glass jar, so that he can keep his match -safe replenished and be able to light his -pipe or cigar no matter how the breeze -may blow. I have found tobacco a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>mighty source of comfort under adverse -mental and physical conditions, and its -soothing influence has made many a -trick at the tiller seem less weary.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Cooking in a small craft tossed like a -cork on the waves is a confounded -nuisance, but a hot meal tastes well -after you have been stuck at the tiller -for four or five hours in squally weather. -I remember an incident that occurred -on board my cutter, the <i>Heather Bell</i>, -when ingenuity provided a hot breakfast -which otherwise we should not -have enjoyed. We were caught in a -southerly gale in the English Channel, -and under trysail and spitfire jib we -were doing our best to claw off a lee -shore. I had been at the tiller nearly -all night, and when day broke I was -thoroughly exhausted. The little cutter—she -was only fifteen tons—was pitching -and 'scending at such a lively rate -that lighting a fire in the stove was out -of the question. My chum, however, -managed to make some coffee with the -aid of a spirit lamp, and also to cook a -couple of plump Yarmouth bloaters. -This last-named feat was difficult, but -my chum was a man of genius. An inspiration -came to him. He split the -bloaters down the backs, put them -in an extra deep frying pan, such as -should always be used at sea, deluged -them with Scotch whiskey, old and -smoky, and set fire to it. I can see him -now, hanging on to the cabin ladder -with one hand and balancing the frying -pan in the other, so that the blazing -<span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>whiskey should not overflow and set fire -to the cabin. Those bloaters were fine. -They went right to the spot. It was -rather an expensive mode of cooking, -for the whiskey in question was choice, -but we both agreed that the fishes were -worthy of it. I suppose they would -have tasted just as well if they had been -cooked in alcohol, but that idea did not -occur to my friend. A beefsteak prepared -in the same way was delicious. -We had it for dinner and soon after there -came a shift of wind which enabled us -to run for Newhaven and sleep comfortably.</p> - -<p class='c007'>You should take with you a box of -seidlitz powders, a bottle of vaseline, -court plaster, a box of your pet pills, a -bottle of extract of witch hazel, a bottle -of extract of ginger, a bottle of <i>Sun</i> -cholera mixture, and a bottle of Horsford's -acid phosphate. These should be -stowed away in a medicine-chest, which, -if you have any mechanical skill at all, -you can make yourself. If you are no -hand at a saw or a chisel, a small medicine-chest, -filled with all the requisites -and adapted for use in a boat, can be -obtained from any good drug-store at a -reasonable figure.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A locker for the storage of ice is indispensable -for one's comfort when sailing -in these latitudes in summer. The -locker should be lined with zinc, and -should be fitted with a brass tap to draw -off the waste water. Wrap your ice up -in paper first, and then in a piece of -coarse flannel, and you will be surprised -<span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>at the length of time it will keep. A -porous earthenware bottle should form -part of your equipment. It can be suspended -in a draught, and will supply -you with a moderately cool drink when -your ice is all used.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Remember that sea air generates damp -very quickly in a cabin. Bedding should -be aired and sunned if possible every -day, and the cabin should be well ventilated. -Cleanliness and comfort go together -in a boat, and scrubbing-brush -and swab should not be allowed to get -dry-rot by disuse. Cultivate order and -tidiness so far as the domestic economy -of your yacht is concerned. Have a -place for everything and everything in -its place, or your little cabin will present -a slovenly appearance instead of looking -pretty and snug.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If the interior of your cabin is painted -white, use enamel paint, which dries -hard and smooth, and can be easily -cleaned by washing with warm (not -hot) water, soap and sponge.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Cocoa-nut matting is better than carpet -or oil-cloth as a covering for a small -craft's cabin floor. It is difficult to dry -carpet when it gets thoroughly drenched -with salt water. Oil-cloth is comfortless -and cold to bare feet, but cocoa-nut -matting is open to neither of these objections. -It is easily washed and dries -quickly.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The cushions for the cabin may be -stuffed with cork shavings or horse-hair -and covered with india-rubber sheeting. -These may again be covered with corduroy -<span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>or blue flannel, as the india-rubber -sheeting is cold. Mattresses made -of deers' hair are in the market, and -are quite comfortable. Being buoyant, -they can be used as life-savers in an -emergency.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Cups, saucers, plates and dishes of -enameled iron or agate ware are unbreakable -and much superior to those -of tin, which rust and are hard to keep -clean. Crockery and glassware are easily -destroyed in a cruising craft, in spite -of the ingenious racks and lockers invented -to preserve them.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Don't omit to include fishing tackle -among your stores. There is lots of -sport in catching blue-fish or mackerel -when under way, and many a weary -hour when your craft is becalmed may -be beguiled with hook and line. Besides, -a fish fresh from the water forms -an agreeable and appetizing change -from the monotony of canned goods. -There is no necessity to purchase expensive -tackle for sea-fishing. All that -is wanted is strong and serviceable gear. -For blue-fishing provide yourself with -a well-laid cotton line, which is not liable -to kink. The line should be seven-sixteenths -of an inch in circumference -for the big fish one catches in spring -and fall, and the hooks should be strong. -It is well to carry with you several varieties -of squid. For smaller blue-fish -a lighter, cotton-braided line is good. -When I go blue-fishing I take rubber -finger-stalls along to prevent my fingers -being chafed by the line. My readers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>should do the same. Horse-mackerel -and Spanish mackerel are often taken -with a blue-fish line.</p> - -<p class='c007'>For navigating purposes all that is -really necessary for a coasting voyage -is a chart of the waters you propose to -sail in, a pair of dividers and parallel -rulers, and a book of sailing directions. -A patent log may be added if so desired, -and will add to the accuracy of your -dead reckoning.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Thus equipped, the navigator may -boldly venture forth either by himself -or with a congenial companion. If he -does not enjoy every moment of his -cruise, and gain health and strength -from the tonic sea breezes, he can safely -conclude that Nature never intended -him for a sailor. In that case he should -dispose of his craft at once and seek -such consolation as agricultural pursuits -afford.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_123.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span> - <h2 class='c004'>IX.<br /> <br />BEATING TO WINDWARD.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>There is an old nautical truism to -the effect that a haystack will sail -well to leeward, but that it takes a -correctly-modeled vessel to beat -to windward. It is easy to comprehend -how a straw hat thrown into a pond on -its northerly -edge will, under -the influence -of a brisk -breeze from -the north, -make a fast -passage to the -southerly -bank. It is -more difficult -to understand -how the same -straw hat, if -put into the -water at the -southerly end -of the pond, -might be so -manœuvred as -to make a passage to the northern extremity -of the sheet of water, though -the wind continued to pipe from the -north. This was, no doubt, a tough nut -for the early navigators to crack, and -the problem may have taken centuries -to solve.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_124.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Diagram No. 1.</span><br /><span class='small'>Sailing under Varying Conditions</span><br /><span class='small'>of Wind.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>The paddle was naturally the first -means of propelling a rude craft through -the water, and the ingenious savage -(probably an indolent rascal) who discovered -that a bough of a tree, or the -skin of a beast extended to a favoring -breeze, would produce the same effect -as constant and laborious plying of -paddles, was presumably hailed as a -benefactor by his tribe. But this device, -artful no doubt in its inception, -was only of avail while the wind blew -towards the quarter in which the destination -of the enterprising voyager lay. -If the wind drew ahead, or dropped, the -skin or leafy bough was no longer of -use as a labor-saving contrivance, and -the wearisome paddle was necessarily -resumed.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The primitive square sail of antiquity -embodies the same principle as that -governing the motion through the water -of the modern full rigged ship, which is -admirably adapted for efficient beating -to windward, or sailing against the wind. -Superiority in this branch of sailing is -the crucial test of every vessel whose -propelling power is derived from canvas, -and the shipbuilders and sailmakers -of all seafaring nations have vied with -each other for centuries to secure the -desired perfection.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Beating to windward may be described -as the method by which a vessel -forces her way by a series of angles in -the direction from which the wind is -blowing. Some vessels will sail closer -to the wind than others. That is to say, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>with their sails full they will head a -point or more nearer to the direction -from which the wind comes than vessels -of different rig.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_126.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Diagram No. 2.</span><br /><span class='small'>Running Before the Wind.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Broadly speaking, an ordinary fore-and-aft -rigged yacht with the wind due -north, will head northwest on the starboard -tack, and northeast on the port -tack. That is, she will head up within -four points of the wind. Some will do -better than this by a good half point. -The famous old sloop <i>Maria</i>, owned by -Commodore J. C. Stevens, founder of -the New York Yacht Club, is said to -have sailed within three points and a -half of the wind, and I am informed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>that <i>Constitution</i>, in her races this year, -achieved a similar remarkable feat.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A square-rigger, because the sails -cannot be trimmed to form so sharp an -angle to the breeze as a fore-and-aft -rigged vessel, rarely sails closer than -six points of the wind. Consequently, -she has to make more tacks and consume -a longer time in accomplishing a -similar distance in the teeth of the -breeze than a vessel driven by fore-and-aft -canvas. It is possible to make my -meaning clearer by means of simple -diagrams, and to these I refer the reader.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_127.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Diagram No. 3.</span><br /><span class='small'>Gybing.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>A vessel is said to be close-hauled -when the sheets are trimmed flat aft -and the boat is headed as near to the -wind as the sails will permit without -their luffs shaking. When a vessel is so -trimmed, she is said to be sailing "full -and bye," which means as close to the -wind as the craft will point with the -sails bellying out and full of wind. If -<span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>a vessel is sailed so close to the wind -that the sails quiver, the pressure is -diminished and speed is decreased. -Thus the art of beating to windward -successfully consists in keeping the boat's -sails full, while her head should not be -permitted to "fall off" for an instant. -This requires a watchful eye and an -artistic touch. To become an adept, one -should have plenty of practice.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_128.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Diagram No. 4.</span><br /><span class='small'>Close Hauled on Port Tack.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>A boat is on the starboard tack when -the main boom is over the port quarter -and the port jib sheet is hauled aft. The -<span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>wind is then on the starboard bow. The -conditions are reversed when the craft -goes on the port tack. In diagram No. 1, -four conditions of sailing are shown, -the figures representing a boat sailing -with the wind astern, on the quarter, -abeam, and close hauled. It will be observed -how the main boom is trimmed -to meet the varied changes of wind or -course.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_129.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Diagram No. 5,</span><br /><span class='small'>Close Hauled on Starboard Tack.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Diagram No. 2 shows a racing yacht -running before the wind with all her -balloons expanded to the breeze. The -spinnaker set to starboard not only adds -greatly to her speed, but it also makes -the steering easier, as it counteracts the -pressure of the huge mainsail and club -topsail on the port side, thus causing a -nicely-adjusted balance. The balloon -jibtopsail catches every stray breath of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>air that is spilled out of the spinnaker, -and it also has considerable possibilities -as a steering sail, in addition to its -splendid pulling power. For a vessel, -however finely balanced and carefully -steered, owing to various conditions of -breeze and sea, has a tendency to yaw -and fly up in the wind. Thus a strong -puff or a heavy sea striking the boat may -make her swerve from her course in an -effort to broach to. Then the jibtopsail -does good service as, when it gets full -of wind, it pays the head of the boat off -the wind, and materially assists the -helmsman in steadying the vessel on her -course.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_130.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Diagram No. 6.</span><br /><span class='small'>Dead Beat to Windward.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>It may be remarked that steering a -yacht under these conditions, in a strong -and puffy -breeze with a -lumpy, following -sea, calls -for the best -work of the -ablest helmsman. -A boat -will generally -develop an -inclination to -broach to, -which means -to fly up in the -wind. Sometimes, -however, -the notion -may strike -her to run off -the wind so -<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>much as to bring the wind on the other -quarter, causing her to gybe. This -would mean disaster, probably a broken -boom and a topmast snapped off short -like a pipe-stem, with other incidental -perils.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Diagram No. 3 shows the manœuvre -of gybing, which is to keep the -vessel away from the wind until it comes -astern, and then on the opposite quarter -to which it has been blowing. Fig. 1 -shows a boat sailing before the wind -with the main boom over to starboard. -Fig. 2 shows the operation of luffing to -get in the main sheet. Fig. 3 shows the -boom over on the port quarter, and the -operation complete, except trimming -sail for the course to be steered.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It may be remarked that gybing a -racing yacht "all standing" in a strong -wind requires consummate skill and -care. A cool hand at the helm is the -prime requisite, but smart handling of -the main sheet is of scarcely less importance. -The topmast preventer backstays -should be attended to by live men. -When a vessel is not racing, gybing in -heavy weather may be accomplished -without the slightest risk; the topsail -may be clewed up and the peak of the -mainsail lowered, and with ordinary -attention the manœuvre is easily performed.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Diagrams Nos. 4 and 5 show the same -racing yacht close hauled on the port -and starboard tack. The spinnaker and -balloon jibtopsail are taken in. A small -jibtopsail takes the place of the flying -<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>kite. This sail, however, is only carried -in light winds, as it has a tendency, -when a breeze blows, to make a craft -sag off to leeward.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Diagram No. 6 shows a boat beating -out of a bay with the wind dead in her -teeth, a regular "nose-ender" or "muzzler." -She starts out from her anchorage -on the port tack, stands in as close -to the shore as is prudent, goes about -on the starboard tack, stands out far -enough to weather the point of land, -then tacks again, and on the port tack -fetches the open sea.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Diagram No. 7 illustrates a contingency -frequently met with in beating to -windward, when a vessel can sail nearer -her intended course on one tack than another. -Thus suppose her course is East -by South and the wind SE, she would -head up East on one tack (the long leg) -and South on the other (the short leg).</p> - -<p class='c007'>Diagram No. 8 depicts the manœuvre -of tacking that is the method of "going -into stays," or shifting from one tack to -the other. Fig. 1 shows a boat steering -"full and bye" on the starboard tack. -It becomes necessary to go about. -"Helm's a-lee!" cries the man at the -tiller, at the same time easing the helm -down to leeward and causing the boat's -head to fly up in the wind. The jib -sheet is let go at the cry "Helm's a-lee!" -decreasing the pressure forward and -making the boat, if well balanced, spin -round. A modern racer turns on her -heel so smartly that the men have all -they can do to trim the head sheets -<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>down before she is full on the other -tack. Some of the old style craft, however, -hang in the wind, and it sometimes -becomes necessary to pay her -head off by trimming down on the port -jib sheet and by shoving the main boom -over on the starboard quarter (Fig. 3). -Soon she fills on the port tack, and goes -dancing merrily along, as shown in -Fig. 4.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In beating to windward in a strong -breeze and a heavy sea leeway must be -considered.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Leeway may be defined as the angle -between the line of the vessel's apparent -course and the line she actually makes -good through the water. In other and -untechnical words, it is the drift that the -ship makes sideways through the water -because of the force of the wind and the -heave of the sea, both factors causing -the craft to slide bodily off to leeward.</p> - -<p class='c007'>This crab-like motion is due to a variety -of causes, to the shape of the craft, -to her trim, and to the amount of sail -carried, and its quality and sit. Boats -deficient in the element of lateral resistance, -such as a shallow craft with the -centerboard hoisted, will drift off to leeward -at a surprising rate. A deep boat -of good design and fair sail-carrying -capacity will, on the other hand, if her -canvas is well cut and skillfully trimmed, -make little or no leeway. In fact, she -may, under favorable circumstances, -eat up into the wind and fetch as high -as she points.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span> -<img src='images/i_134.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Diagram No. 7.</span><br /><span class='small'>A Long Leg and a Short Leg.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Leeway is always a dead loss, and to -counteract it is always the aim of the -practical seaman and navigator. Captain -Lecky, in his admirable work, -"Wrinkles in Practical Navigation," -puts the case clearly, and his advice -should be followed whenever feasible. -He says: "Suppose a vessel on a wind -heading NW by N, under short canvas -and looking up within three points of -her port, which, accordingly, bears north; -but, owing to its blowing hard, she is -making 2-1/2 points leeway. Clearly this -vessel is only <i>making good</i> a NW by -W1/2W course, which is 5-1/2 points from -the direction of port. Let her speed -under these conditions be, say, four -knots per hour. -Now, if the yards -are checked in a -point or so, and -the vessel be -kept off NW by -W, she will slip -away much faster -through the water, -and probably will -make not more -than half a point -leeway. This keeps -the course <i>made -good</i> exactly the -same as before, -with the advantage -of increased -speed. Therefore, -if you can possibly -avoid it, do not allow -your vessel to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>sag to leeward by jamming her up in -the wind. Keep your wake right astern, -unless it be found from the bearing of -the port that the course <i>made good</i> is -actually taking the vessel away from it, -in which case it is obvious that the less -the speed the better."</p> - -<p class='c007'>This excellent counsel applies to every -kind of sailing vessel, whether square-rigger -or fore-and-after, whether used -for business or pleasure. It is of no avail -to pinch a boat for the purpose of keeping -her bowsprit pointed for her destination, -when it is obvious that she will only -fetch a point several -miles to leeward. -Keep the -sails clean full and -the boat will make -better weather of -it, as well as greater -speed. It may -frequently be necessary -to "luff and -shake it out of her" -when struck by a -hard squall, or, by -the aid of a "fisherman's -luff," to -clear an object -without tacking, -but a good rule is -to keep a sailing -craft moving -through the water -and not permit her -to pitch and rear -end on to the sea.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_135.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Diagram No. 8.</span><br /><span class='small'>The Manœuvre of Tacking.</span></p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span> - <h2 class='c004'>X.<br /> <br />COMBINATION ROWING AND SAILING<br />BOATS.</h2> -</div> -<div class='figcenter id005'> -<img src='images/i_136.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Whip purchase</span><br /><span class='small'>and traveler.</span><br />Fig. 1.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_6 c005'>A boat intended for both -rowing and sailing -should be partly decked, -and have as high a -coaming as possible round the -cockpit. A folding centerboard -should be fitted as in Fig. 10, -so as to avoid the awkwardness -of a trunk, which in a small craft -takes up too much room. Outside -ballast is not necessary; a -few bags of sand will do instead. -An open boat under -sail is dangerous except in the -hands of a skilled boatman. In -a scrub race the helmsman -cracks on until the lee gunwale -is almost on a level with the -water. He may go along like this for -some time, but if the water is rough, -ten to one a sea will sooner or later come -in over the lee bow, and the weight of -water to leeward may cause the boat -to capsize before the sheet can be let go -and the helm put hard down to bring -her head to wind. This in itself is not -agreeable; and failing to right the boat -one may be compelled to cling to the -keel or rail until relief comes, or till he -gets too tired to hang on any longer. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>The excellent sport of sailing in a stiff -breeze is obtained at its best only in a -partly decked boat. The half-decked -craft may also be made into a life-boat -with the aid of water-tight boxes of tin -or zinc. The cockpit should be made as -narrow as is compatible with comfort.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The combination rowing and sailing -boat should have as little gear as possible. -Sheets and halyards should always -be kept clear for running and never be -allowed to get foul. If you are so unlucky -or so imprudent as to meet with -a capsize, keep clear of the ropes, for a -turn of one round the leg may send you -to Davy Jones's locker.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_137.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Jib and Mainsail Rig. Fig. 2.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>In writing of rigs suitable for small -craft I shall not weary my readers with -descriptions of sails that are not at all -adapted for practical use in American -waters. The amateur desirous of becoming -<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>acquainted with the rig of boats -suitable for Bermuda waters, the Norfolk -Broads, the Nile, or the inland lakes -of Timbuctoo must look elsewhere. -Nevertheless the amateur may rest confident -that I give practical instructions -for the best possible rigs, and he may -adopt any one of them after due consideration -of the comments on each variety -without any fear of future regret.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The mast of the combination sailing -and rowing boat which is shown in Fig. -2, should be so stepped that it can be -taken down at a moment's notice. It -should not be stepped into the keelson -through a hole in the thwart, but should -be fitted with a strong iron clamp and pin -screwed to the after part of the thwart, -so that it may be unshipped in a hurry. -The mast should be light and strong. -The sheave-hole in the head should be -fitted with a galvanized-iron or yellow-metal -sheave, and should be sufficiently -large for the halyards to travel freely -when the rope is swollen with water. A -block may be fitted to the mast-head for -the jib halyards. The boat should be -provided with a galvanized-iron horse -for the lower block of the mainsheet to -travel on. This is a great convenience -in beating to windward as the boom will -go over by itself without the aid of the -helmsman. The sail also sets better -with the aid of a horse to keep the -boom down.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The jib sheets and all halyards should -lead aft within easy reach of the helmsman -so that he may be able to handle -<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>them without letting go the tiller. The -cushions of the stern sheets should be -stuffed with cork shavings such as -grapes come packed in from Spain. -They should have life lines sewed to -them so that in case of need they may -be used as life-preservers.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_139.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Sprit Rig. Fig. 3.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The boat should be equipped with -three oars (as one may be broken), -a boat-hook and a baler; and the plug -in the bottom should be secured to the -boat by a lanyard and screw-eye. A -tiller should be used for steering when -sailing and not a yoke and lines.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Remember that you must luff when -the first breath of the squall strikes the -boat, for if way is lost and the boat is -hove down on her beam ends, lee helm -ceases to possess its virtue and the boat -may capsize. This is a sound and wise -axiom and one that a beginner should -<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>impress rigidly on his mind. Never -allow skylarking in a boat. Never attempt -to climb the mast of an open boat, -as it is an operation fraught with danger. -Rather unstep the mast for any -repairs that may be necessary. Never -stand on the thwarts of a small boat -when under way.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If women and children are on board -never gybe the boom over. Many accidents -have happened through the neglect -of this precaution. No matter how -expert a boat-sailer you may be, never -take women and children out in a boat -with only yourself to handle her. Always -take care that you have with you -either a skilled professional hand or an -amateur who knows the ropes, can take -his trick at the tiller and does not lose -his head in a squall or other emergency -of sea, lake, sound or river. In default -of being able to command the services -of such a man, leave the women and -children ashore and postpone the excursion -heedless of the tears and entreaties -of your best girl and the black looks of -your prospective mother-in-law. A lovers' -quarrel is easily made up, but a -capsized boat may mean loss of life and -agonies of regret and self-reproach.</p> - -<p class='c007'>I was once persuaded against my better -judgment to take out a party of ladies -for a sail in a jib-and-mainsail boat. -We put out from a dock at Perth-Amboy -in the afternoon, with a cloudless -sky and a soft, sweet summer zephyr -blowing. There was one other of my -sex aboard and he told me he perfectly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>understood the handling of a boat. He -wore a yachting suit and cocked his eye -aloft in a knowing and nautical manner -that deceived even an old stager like -myself. A huge black bank of clouds -arose in the northwest presaging the -speedy approach of a savage thunder-squall. -I told my nautical-looking -shipmate to lower the jib, but he did not -know how to find the halyards, and he -was equally ignorant of the whereabouts -of the sheet. I gave the tiller to one of -the girls to hold, hauled down the jib, -made it fast, lowered the mainsail and -furled it as snugly as I could and then -let go the anchor which, luckily, hadn't -been left ashore. All this time my nautical-looking -chum was star-gazing. As -a matter of fact he knew no more about -a boat than a bull knows of trigonometry. -His specialty, I was afterwards informed, -was measuring off tape by the -yard and ogling his customers. I had -to do a good deal of hustling to get the -craft snug for the squall and to stow -away my girl guests in the shelter of the -little half-deck forward, where they fitted -as tight as sardines in a box.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When the squall struck us it was a -hummer and no mistake. I veered out -all the cable there was and she rode to -it quite well. There came a deluge of -rain with the blast, and the boat was -soon nearly half full. The girls screamed -and prayed. The counter-jumper looked -pale about the gills and being too scared -to bail flopped on his marrow-bones. -Now praying on shipboard is not to be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>scoffed at, but it should be delayed until -man has exhausted every possible means -of saving the ship. I had to do all the -bailing myself and when the squall had -blown itself out I had to set the sails -and hoist the anchor without any aid -from the linen-draper.</p> - -<p class='c007'>That is one reason why I don't go sailing -single-handed anymore with a boatload -of girls. Do you blame me, shipmates? -They are as likely to get cranky -as the boat herself, and one female at a -time is all the average man can keep on -an even keel. Of course I know many -girls who can give me points and beat -me easily in yachting and all that appertains -thereto; but fair ones of that sort -are not so plentiful as they might be.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It should be remembered that these -small rowing and sailing boats are not -intended for a spin round Sandy Hook -lightship. They are for smooth water -and in their place are capable of affording -their owners an immense amount of -wholesome enjoyment. On a pinch they -will stand a hard tussle with wind and -wave, but it is never wise to tempt Providence. -I once knew an Irishman who -often declared that he was so favored by -fortune that he could fall off a dock into -the water and not get wet, but the average -man is not built that way. An ambitious -amateur may well begin his career -on the water with one of these -interesting little toys I have described, -and even if he aspires to become the -owner of a stouter and more seaworthy -craft in which to essay adventurous -<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>cruises of great emprise, he will learn -much that is of value from her.</p> - -<p class='c007'>With these cautionary remarks I will -proceed to describe the rigs which in -my judgment are suitable for boats -measuring from twelve to seventeen -feet over all.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_143.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Leg-of-mutton Rig. Fig. 4.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The leg-of-mutton rig, whether combined -with a jib or not, is the simplest -and safest known, for there is no weight -aloft such as is inevitable with a gaff. -It is a sail exactly adapted to the requirements -of a learner. The most -nervous mother need not be alarmed if -her boy goes sailing in a boat equipped -with this rig. The sail is hoisted by a -single halyard bent to the cringle at the -head of the sail and rove through either -<span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>a sheave or a block at the masthead. -Sometimes the luff is laced to the mast, -but it is better that it should be seized -to hoops, as shown in Fig. 4. If a boom -is used a larger sail can be carried, but -it should be only a light spar and the -foot of the sail should be laced to it. -The boom may be fitted with a topping -lift and the sheet be rove as shown in -the illustration. In a small open boat -no stays are necessary for the mast, but -the jib halyards should be belayed to a -cleat on one gunwale of the boat and -the main halyards on the other, so as to -afford support to the mast.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_144.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Cat Rig. Fig. 9</span>.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>The jib and leg-of-mutton sail is a deservedly -popular rig. A short bowsprit -may be fitted to a boat and secured -to an eyebolt in the stem by a wire bob-stay. -A wire forestay may be set up to -the bowsprit end and a jib may be bent -to iron hanks on it and hoisted by a single -halyard. Or it may be set flying.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The advantages of the cat rig (Fig. -9) for general handiness have been often -explained. I should advise that the -sail be hoisted by both throat and peak -halyards and not by a single halyard -as is sometimes the case. It is often -most convenient to be able to drop the -peak, when gybing, for instance, or -when struck by a squall. A single topping -lift should be fitted with an eye -splice to the end of the boom and -rove through a block at the masthead -and belayed to a cleat on the mast. -The main sheet should travel on an -iron horse. A short boomkin, with forestay -and bob-stay, may help to secure -the mast.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The balance lug, which is illustrated -in Fig. 8, is quite a popular rig, and it -has much in its favor. The sail is laced -to a yard and boom and is hoisted by a -single halyard rove through a sheave-hole -in the masthead and spliced to the -eye of the hook of a galvanized-iron -traveler, to which a strop on the yard -is hooked, as shown in the illustration. -On the other end of the halyard a single -block is turned in, through which a -rope is rove, the standing part of which -is made fast to an eyebolt at the foot -<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>of the mast and the hauling part rove -through a block and led aft within easy -reach of the helmsman. The tack should -be made fast to the boom and set up -to the mast thwart after being passed -round the mast. The main sheet should -work on a galvanized-iron horse. This -rig is quite handy and a boat so -equipped is smart in stays.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_146.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Balance Lug Rig. Fig. 8.</span><br /><span class='small'>Showing Traveler and Halyards.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span> -<img src='images/i_147.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Sliding Gunter Rig. Fig. 5.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id006'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span> -<img src='images/i_148.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Detail of Sliding Gunter Rig, Fig. 6.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The sliding gunter rig, which is shown -in Fig. 5, has this much to recommend -it: it is easily set if rigged as shown in -the illustration and it can quickly be -reefed. It will be seen that the mast is -in two pieces, the topmast sliding up and -down the lower mast on two wrought-iron -rings or travelers. The halyards -are sometimes made fast to the lower -traveler and sometimes to the upper. -They reeve through a sheave-hole in the -lower masthead and may be set up with -a single whip purchase. The lower mast -may be supported with a single wire -shroud on each side and, if the double -headrig is carried, with a wire stay to -the stem head. The sail should be laced -to the topmast and secured to the lower -mast by hoops or iron rings leathered. -These should be large enough to slide -easily up and down the mast, which -should be kept well greased. The topmast -should be so rigged that the upper -iron can be unclamped and the topmast -lowered down so as to permit the sail -to be stowed like a gaff-sail along the -boom. With the sail thus furled the -boat will ride much easier in a breeze -or a seaway. In Fig. 6 the working of -the rig is shown: 1 is the lower mast, -2 the topmast, 3 the halyards, 4 the -upper ring, or traveler, with a clamp -and pin to permit the lowering of the -topmast, 5 the lower ring or traveler, -which is fitted with a hinge at 6; 7 is -the gooseneck of the boom to which -the foot of the sail is laced. Reefing is -simple. Lower away on the halyards, -make fast the cringle on the luff of the -sail, at whatever reef band is desired, to -the gooseneck on the boom. Haul out -the corresponding reef earing, make it -fast, tie your reef points and hoist up -<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>the sail again by the halyards. A topping -lift is necessary.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The spritsail is not often seen in these -waters, but it is a good sail for a small -boat. I warn the beginner, however, -against its use in a craft of any pretensions -to size, for he will find the heavy -sprit much more difficult to handle than -a gaff. A spritsail is similar in shape -to the mainsail of a cutter, with the peak -higher and the foot shorter, as in Fig. 3. -The sprit is a spar which crosses the -sail diagonally from luff to peak. It is -thick in the middle, and each end is -tapered. The upper end fits into a -cringle or eye in the peak of the sail -and the lower end into a snotter on -the mast. The sprit stretches the sail -quite flat and thus a boat is able to -point well to windward. The snotter -is a piece of stout rope having an eye -in each end, one being passed round -the mast and rove through the eye in -the other end, the heel of the sprit fitting -in the remaining eye. If the -snotter carries away, the heel of the -sprit may be forced by its own weight -through the bottom of the boat; accordingly, -as it has to stand considerable -strain, it should be made of stout stuff. -To set the sail, hoist it up by the halyards, -slip the upper end of the sprit -into the cringle in the peak, push it up -as high as you can and insert the heel -into the snotter; then trim the sheet. -In large boats the snotter is made fast -to an iron traveler which is hoisted by a -whip purchase as shown in Figs. 1 and 3.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span> -<img src='images/i_150a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Folding Centerboard. Fig. 10.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_150b.jpg' alt='Turtles' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The sprit rig cannot be said to be -pretty, and when the sail is large it is -difficult to reef it. I should not counsel -its use except in a boat intended for -both rowing and sailing, where the sail -would be so small as to be easily -muzzled in case of a squall. The spritsail -is hoisted by halyards, -rove through a block or -sheave-hole at the masthead -and hooked to a cringle -at the throat of the sail. -The tack of the sail is lashed -to an eyebolt in the mast. -In reefing -the -sprit -must -be lowered -by -shifting the -snotter further -down the mast.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XI.<br /> <br />RIGGING AND SAILS.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_6 c005'>Wire has entirely superseded rope -for standing rigging, and deadeyes -and lanyards are fast -giving way before the advance -of the turnbuckle. An old sailor cannot -help regretting the decline and fall -of his profession and the growing -popularity of the art of the blacksmith. -So far as the rigging of ships is -concerned, when wire rigging was first -introduced it was thought that its rigidity -would prove a fatal objection to its -successful use.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Science has, however, set its foot down -firmly on such objections. The decree -has gone forth that rigging cannot possibly -be set up too taut, and the less it -stretches the better. The old argument -that a yacht's standing rigging should -"give" when the craft is caught in a -squall, which old sea dogs were so fond -of advancing, has been knocked on the -head by scientific men who declare that -a vessel's heeling capacity affords much -more relief than the yielding quality of -rigging. Thus all or nearly all of the -modern immense steel sailing vessels in -the East Indian and Australian trade -have their steel masts stayed as rigidly -as possible by means of turnbuckles, and -practice seems to have demonstrated the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>truth of the theory. These ships encounter -terrific seas and gales off the -Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn, and -their masts are thus subjected to violent -and sudden strains, but I have been assured -by the commanders of several of -these great freight carriers that they -have never known their "sticks" to be -imperiled by the rigidity of the rigging, -and the tauter it can be set up the more -secure the masts are supposed to be.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id007'> -<img src='images/i_152.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>SHROUD, DEADEYE, LANYARD.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>There are, however, a number of old -salts who condemn this theory as rank -heresy, and go in for deadeyes and lanyards -of the old-fashioned kind, and the -greater the stretch between the upper -and the lower deadeyes the better are -they pleased. There is no doubt that -turnbuckles look neater than deadeyes, -and they are probably well suited for -small craft. The Herreshoffs have long -used them for setting -up the rigging of the -sloops and yawls of -moderate size which -they used to turn out -in such numbers, and -which first laid the -foundation of their -fame. The boat owner -can please himself as to -which method he may -choose, and he can rely -that with either his -mast will be perfectly -secure. Both methods -are shown in the accompanying -cuts.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>There is one thing in connection with -wire rigging that I must warn the amateur -against. Beware of shod wire rigging. -"Shoes" are iron plates riveted -to the ends of wire rigging to receive -shackle bolts. They are never reliable. -Eye splices in wire never draw. "Shoes" -often collapse without notice.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id008'> -<img src='images/i_153.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>TURNBUCKLE.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Turnbuckles are very -handy appliances for setting -up rigging in a hurry, -whereas the same operation -conducted by means -of a deadeye and a lanyard -takes much more time and -trouble. A small craft -rigged as a sloop, cutter -or yawl, requires only one -shroud on each side to -afford lateral support to -the mast, and a forestay—which -in the case of a -cutter or yawl should set -up at the stem head, but -on a sloop is set up on the -bowsprit. A simple way -to fit the rigging is to -splice an eye in each -shroud, forming a collar -sufficiently large to pass over the -masthead, first covering the part that -is to form the eye with canvas sewn -on and painted. The starboard shroud -goes over the masthead first, then -the port one and last the forestay. -In large yachts the lower rigging -is often fitted in pairs, the bight of the -shrouds being passed over the masthead -<span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>and secured in the form of an eye with a -stout wire seizing.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Many riggers shackle the shrouds to -an iron band fitted to the hounds. This -plan is open to objection. There may -be a flaw in the iron and the band may -give way suddenly, causing the mast to -snap off short like the stem of a clay -pipe. Bands may look a little more -snug than the collars, but they are -heavier aloft and not so -reliable, and for these -reasons I am old-fashioned -enough to prefer -the collars.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id009'> -<img src='images/i_154.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>TOPMAST RIGGING.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>For a small sloop, cutter -or yawl, a pole mast -is preferable; but all -boats more than twenty -feet on the water line -should be fitted with topmasts, -the rigging of -which is shown in the -cut.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The running bowsprit -is almost obsolete now-a-days, -but the device still -finds favor with certain -owners of cutters and -yawls of large size. It -certainly has its advantages. -The length of the -bowsprit is reduced as the jibs are -shifted, until when the "spitfire" or -storm-jib is set the bowsprit is run -so far inboard that it looks like a -mere stump. In a sea-way the benefit -of this is obvious, the weight being -<span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>materially reduced forward and the -pitching consequently lessened. The -jib also sits well and does its work, and -is far preferable to that horror of horrors -the "bobbed" jib of a sloop, which -always makes a sailor's flesh creep when -he sees it. How it has managed to survive -is a marvel to me. It is a lubberly -and slovenly device not good enough -for a scow. The rigging of a running -bowsprit is shown in the cut.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_155.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>RIG OF RUNNING BOWSPRIT.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>When it becomes necessary to set the -storm trysail, lower away the mainsail -and furl it as fast as possible. Lower -the boom down into the crutch amidships, -and secure it by hauling the sheet -taut and by tackles or lashings from -each quarter. Unhook the throat and -peak halyards and hook them on to the -trysail gaff, the jaws of which parral on -to the mast, allowing the gaff end to -rest on the deck. The topping lifts -must be unhooked from the main boom -and taken in to the mast or the rigging, -so as to be out of the way of the trysail. -Lace the head of the trysail to -the gaff. The clew of the trysail is -hauled aft by a luff-tackle which forms -the sheet. Another tackle should be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>hooked to the clew and made fast to -windward over the main boom and gaff, -so that in case of a shift of wind the -sheet may be hauled aft on the other -side without delay or the danger of -getting aback. Then you can man the -throat and peak halyards and set the -sail, trimming the sheet well down.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If you should have the misfortune to -carry away the main boom, and you -have no trysail on board, lower away -the sail, unlace it from the boom, close-reef -it, and set it with a luff-tackle for -a sheet. When about to set the storm -trysail and your vessel is yawl rigged, -set the storm mizzen. It will keep her -head up to the sea while the sails are -being shifted. In a cutter, heave to by -hauling the fore sheet to windward, -keeping the jib full. Shifting jibs in -heavy weather in a cutter requires care. -The first thing to do is to get the sail -up from below and stretch it along -the weather side of the forward deck -with the head aft. Haul the foresheet -to windward and trim the mainsheet in -flat, tricing up the tack if the sail is -loose-footed. Keep the boat as close -to the wind as possible. Let go the -jib outhaul, and the sail will fly in along -the bowsprit. Muzzle it, man the down-haul, -let go the halyards and down with -it! Then reef the bowsprit. Some -cutters are fitted with a rack and pinion -wheel, with a handle like that of a -winch, for this purpose. If not supplied -with this handy contrivance, reeve a -heel rope, and after slacking the bobstay -<span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>fall and the falls -of the shrouds and -topmast stay, heave -on it until you can -knock the fid out. -Then rouse the bowsprit -in by the shroud -tackles to the second -or third fid holes, as -desired; ship the fid -and set up the gear, -beginning with the -bobstay, the weather -shroud next and the lee shroud last, -at the same time taking in the slack -of the topmast stay. Now to set the -jib. First hook on the sheets and -take a turn with the lee one; next -hook on the tack to the traveler and -the halyards to the head. Man the -outhaul and bowse the tack out to the -bowsprit end. Hoist up on the halyards -and sweat up with the purchase. -Trim the sheet, let draw the foresheet, -ease off the mainsheet and sail her along -again. If these instructions are carried -out a storm jib may be set on a reefed -bowsprit without parting a rope yarn.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id010'> -<img src='images/i_157.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>HORSE FOR MAIN SHEET.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>To shake a reef out in the mainsail, -set up on the topping lift so that it may -take the weight of the boom. Untie all -the reef points. Cast off the lashing at -the tack if the sail is laced to the boom, -or come up the tack tackle if it is loose-footed. -Then ease off the reef earring -and hoist the sail, setting up the throat -first. You can then ease up the topping -lift and trim sheet.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>A convenient method of bending and -unbending a storm trysail is shown in -Fig. X and Fig. E.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_158.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>FIG. X.<br /><br />FIG. E.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Fig. X represents the shape of the -mast hoops, to each of which two iron -hooks are fastened. The hoops are of -the ordinary size, but about one-quarter -of their length is sawn out and to the -ends the iron hooks are riveted. Fig. E -shows how the thimble toggles are -seized to the luff of the sail at regular -intervals. When it is necessary to set -the trysail, adjust the jaws of the gaff to -the mast, make fast the parral, hook on -the throat and peak halyard blocks and -mouse them. Hoist up slowly, slipping -the thimbles over the hooks on the ends -of the hoops as the sail goes up. The -sheet must be hauled aft before the sail -is hoisted, and should be slacked off -handsomely to allow the sail to be properly -set. Then all hands should clap on -it and flatten it in.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If your boat is rigged as a cutter or -yawl the foresail may have the tack -made fast to the eyebolt to which the -stay is set up. The luff of the sail is -seized to galvanized iron hanks that run -<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>up and down on the stay. If the foresail -has a reef band in it (as it should) a -lacing is used between the reef and tack -cringles. Don't bowse up the halyards -too taut the first time you set the sail, -and don't break your back flattening in -the sheet. Give it a chance to stretch -fairly. The same remark also applies -to the jib, whether set on a stay or flying -on its own luff, as it must necessarily -do if your craft is equipped with a running -bowsprit.</p> - -<p class='c007'>For the sake of lightness, blocks are -frequently made too small. Manilla -rope, of which both sheets and halyards -should be made, has a habit of swelling -when wet. It is generally rove on a -dry day, and renders through blocks -quite easily when in this condition. A -rain squall will swell this rope to such -an extent, and halyards will jam so hard, -that sails will not come down when -wanted, and disasters happen. The -work of setting and taking in sail is -made very laborious through small -blocks and large sized halyards. It -should be borne in mind that halyards -ought to run through blocks as freely -when wet as dry. Blocks should always -be fitted with patent sheaves.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The running rigging of a mainsail -consists of peak and throat halyards, -topping lifts, main sheet and peak down-haul. -To bend a mainsail, shackle the -throat cringle to the eyebolt under the -jaws of the gaff, stretch the head of -the sail along the gaff, reeve the peak -earring through the hole in the end of -<span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>the gaff and haul it out, securing it in -the manner shown in the illustration. -The earring is represented with the -turns passed loosely in order to give the -amateur a clear and distinct view of the -proper method. It will be seen that <i>a a</i> -is the peak end of the gaff; <i>b</i> is a cheek -block for the topsail sheet; <i>c</i> is a block -for the peak down haul, used also as -signal halyards, hooked to an eyebolt -screwed into the end of the gaff, the -hook of the block being moused; <i>d</i> is a -hole in the gaff end through which the -earring is passed. The earring is spliced -into the cringle with a long eye splice. -It is then passed through <i>d</i> round -through the cringle <i>e</i>; through <i>d</i> again -and through <i>e</i> again; then up over the -gaff at <i>i</i> and <i>k</i>, down the other side and -through <i>e</i> again, and so on up round the -gaff four or five times; at the last, instead -of going up over the gaff again, -the earring is passed between the parts -round the gaff as shown at <i>f</i>, round all -the parts that were passed through <i>d</i>, as -shown at <i>m</i>, and jammed by two half -hitches <i>m</i> and <i>h</i>.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_160.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>If the sail is new from the sailmaker's -loft, only haul the head out hand taut or -you will ruin it. I have seen yacht skippers -<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>clap a "handy billy" tackle on the -head of a new mainsail and haul on it till -they could get no more. I have seen -them treat the foot in the same way, the -result being a great bag of canvas of no -possible use in beating to windward. A -mainsail costs a good deal of money -and is easily spoiled. One of Mr. John -M. Sawyer's splendidly cut sails can -have all its utility and beauty taken out -of it in half-an-hour by a lubberly sailing -master.</p> - -<p class='c007'>After the head earring is passed, lace -the head of the sail to the gaff, taking a -half hitch at each eyelet hole. Next -seize the luff of the sail to the mast -hoops with marline. The foot of the -mainsail should next be made fast to -the boom in the same manner as the -peak, the lacing going round a wire -jackstay rove through eyebolts on the -top of the boom. Do not "sweat up" -either the throat or peak halyards too -taut the first time you set it, and avoid -reefing a new sail. Lower it down -altogether, set the trysail, or do the best -you can under head sail and the mizzen -if on board a yawl. A mainsail should -always be allowed to stretch gradually, -and the slack of the head and the foot -should be taken up at intervals. Remember -that no greater injury can be -done to a new sail than to try and make -it sit flat by hauling out the foot too -taut before it has been properly -stretched. The best authorities advise -that the sail should be set with the leech -slack, and the boat run before a strong -<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>wind for several hours. Another excellent -plan is to hoist the sail up with the -foot and head slack while the boat is at -anchor, and as it flaps about in the breeze -the sail will stretch without injury. Of -course when the head and foot are thoroughly -stretched they can be hauled -out taut as they can be got.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Personally, I prefer a mainsail with -the foot laced to the boom, but all are -not of my way of thinking. A loose-footed -mainsail still has admirers and -this is how it works. The mainsail outhaul -consists of an iron horse on the -boom, a shackle as traveler, a wire outhaul -made fast to the shackle and rove -through a sheavehole at the boom end -and set up by a purchase.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_162.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>GEAR FOR HAULING OUT LOOSE-FOOTED MAINSAIL.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>If the mainsail is of the loose-footed -variety it should be fitted with a tack -tricing tackle and a main tack purchase. -The last named is handy for bowsing -down the luff of the sail "bar taut" for -racing. Sweating-up the throat halyards -lowers the peak slightly, and peaking the -sail slackens the luff. By hauling up on -the main tack tricing tackle till you can -get no more, and at the same time lowering -<span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>the peak, the mainsail is "scandalized" -and the boom can then be gybed -over in a strong breeze with the least -possible risk of carrying away something.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To prevent masthoops from jamming -when the mainsail is being hoisted or -lowered, a small line is seized to the foreside -of the top hoop and then to every -hoop down the mast. When the throat -halyards are pulled on, the foresides of -the hoops feel the strain and go up parallel -with the after sides. The accompanying -figure shows this at a glance.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_163.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>It is true that this method has found -little favor with amateurs, but I tried it -with great success on my first cruising -craft, and later on in a yacht of far -greater pretensions. The "wrinkle" -should by no means be despised.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XII.<br /> <br />LAYING UP FOR THE WINTER.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>The judicious yachtsman will personally -superintend the laying up -of his craft. If he has that inestimable -blessing, a good skipper, -he should not discharge him at the close -of his summer season. If he does he will -bitterly regret it. A yacht requires as -much watchful care as a baby, and this is -especially true during the trying winter -season. So wise yacht-owners who have -in their employ faithful captains should -hold on to them like grim death to a -deceased army mule. Good men are -not too plentiful these times.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A few practical suggestions as to preparing -the vessel for the winter are here -appended. In the first place, sails -should be well dried before being unbent, -and then should be carefully -stopped and labeled, and the same remark -applies also to the running gear. -By all means secure storage ashore for -sails, gear, cabin fitments and furniture, -carpets, upholstery and bedding, otherwise -you may have cause to regret it in -the spring. In most of the buildings -devoted to the storage of yacht gear -proper platforms or stages are provided, -so that a free current of air may circulate, -and thus prevent damp, mildew -and decay. The lower tier on the platform -should consist of the warps and -<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>running gear, on top of which the sails -should be snugly coiled. Above these -the furniture, bedding and upholstery -should go. All can be covered over -with an old light sail to protect them -from dust. This can be removed as -often as necessary for airing purposes.</p> - -<p class='c007'>On the other side of the Atlantic judicious -owners of storage warehouses -make their platforms rat-proof, following -out the same idea as the farmer does -with his wheat stacks. Each support -to the stage is capped with a metal -cone, which effectually stops the upward -progress of the sail-devouring vermin. -Well-conducted warehouses are well -ventilated, and the temperature is kept -tolerably even by heat.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Of course, all articles of value, such as -plate and nautical instruments, should -find repository in their owner's dwelling.</p> - -<p class='c007'>All light spars should be sent ashore -and lashed up under the beams of the -warehouse. The same with the rowboats, -but with attention to the fact that -they should be so supported as to have -their weight evenly distributed, and -thus prevent them from being pulled -out of shape.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Many expensive boats are hopelessly -ruined by neglect of this precaution. -This is the proper method of supporting -a rowboat so that straining her is -impossible. Six eyebolts should be -screwed into the under side of the -beams of the warehouse at proper intervals -to take the weight of the boat -amidships and at the third of her length -<span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>forward and aft. From these eyebolts -ropes of sufficient length should depend, -to which, in the bight, a handspike -is passed, on which, bottom upward, -the boat is hung.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A yacht laid up without the greatest -care deteriorates in value to an enormous -extent. The first process after -dismantling is to clean the vessel -thoroughly inside and out, just as carefully -as if she was about to be continued -in commission. After getting -her as bright as a new pin, all the hardwood—that -which is varnished or gilded—should -be covered up with canvas.</p> - -<p class='c007'>After the yacht has been thoroughly -skinned, as far as her internal arrangements -are concerned, the last process -preliminary to paying her out of commission, -is to give her decks a coat or -two of bright varnish—shunning that -mixture known in the trade as pure oil, -as deleterious to all decks.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It is cheaper in the long run to provide -a yacht with properly fitted winter -hatches which entirely cover the hardwood -deck fittings and secure thorough -ventilation, as then the regular skylights -can be left open.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In small craft the sailing master will -be sufficient to keep the boat in first-class -condition. On larger vessels, according -to size, he should have competent -assistance.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Whether a yacht is moored alongside -a quay or another vessel, winter storms -cause her to do a little rolling, which -invariably induces chafing. Unless a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>vessel is properly protected by fenders, -her planksheer and bulwarks are sure -to be seriously injured, and to repair -this part of a ship is costly in the extreme, -especially in regard to the planksheer. -Should the planksheer be -"shoved up" by contact with the dock -or the ship to which she is moored alongside, -the damage done could only be -properly repaired by the removal of -both bulwark and rail. To guard -against severe injuries of this kind unceasing -vigilance is necessary. If you -can induce your skipper to live on board, -all the better. In such a case your -yacht will be kept in as dainty condition -as your wife's boudoir. Snow is -very penetrating. It will find its way -even through rubber boots. A little -leak may at first have no significance. -But the leak increases and rot follows, -fastenings are corroded and paintwork -discolored.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Every vessel afloat suffers more or -less from "sweating," caused by the -difference between the temperature of -the air outside and inside the ship. To -obviate this a fire should be kept going; -not a furious furnace that would involve -a great expenditure of coal, but simply -some heating device that gives a moderate -amount of warmth all through -the ship. Thus, when the owner returns -to his yacht in the spring, he will -find her sweet and clean, and will never -regret the few paltry dollars it has cost -him to keep his floating summer home -in seagoing condition. The careful -<span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>skipper will see that his extra help is -kept busy, so that not only a casual visitor -must compliment her owner on her -spick and span condition, but a naval -architect or a Lloyd's surveyor can find -no flaw or fault to peck at. For, down -to her deadwood and timbers, by the -application of soap, hot water and plenty -of elbow-grease, she is made fit for repainting -right down to her keel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>By conservative and preservative -methods such as these a yacht's life is -prolonged, and she will always fetch her -value in the market, the noisome odor -of bilge water being unknown.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The foregoing remarks are applicable -to pleasure craft that are kept afloat -during the winter. It is needless to expatiate -on the benefit of hauling out -yachts of any size or construction, -whether of wood, composite, iron, steel -or Tobin bronze or aluminum. The -expense of hauling large boats out is -considerable, for obvious reasons, and -thus it is that yacht owners do not -care to incur the cost. This objection -does not apply to small craft, which -should invariably be landed for the -winter and efficiently protected by canvas, -or other covering, from the destructive -influence of snow and rain. -All that has been said above in relation -to the storage of sails and gear applies -as much to a one-tonner as to the largest -pleasure craft afloat.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When we go into the question of -steam yachts, no better advice can be -given than that contained above, so far -<span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span>as hull and equipment are concerned. It -is different when the proper care of -machinery is considered. There it is -where the services of a loyal and skillful -engineer come into full play. Unless -sufficient attention is paid to a vessel's -boilers and engines during the critical -time when she reposes in dock, disastrous -results, entailing vast expenditure, -are sure to follow. The complicated -and ingenious mechanism which propels -the modern steam yacht requires devoted -regard. Very expensive when -new, repairs during their second season, -if in any way neglected in the winter, -call for the resources of the purse of a -Crœsus. In matters of this kind the old -adage which relates to a stitch in time -should be noted by the prudent yacht -owner. Thus it is that an engineer and -a sufficient staff should be kept on the -pay roll in the winter for economic -reasons alone. By this means extravagant -bills for unnecessary repairs will -be avoided. The engineer will take -pride in his work and do justice to a -liberal employer.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It is well known that engineers can -only become acquainted with the true -capacity of machinery by long and careful -study. Statistics have proved that -marine engines in the navy under the -direction of good men have been run -with less coal, less oil and greater working -power year by year when the same -man has had control of the engine-room. -All of which means less strain -on the owner's bank account.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>Lincoln's famous aphorism about the -unwisdom of swapping horses when -crossing a stream applies with great -precision to skippers and engineers. -It takes time for the most masterly and -adroit captain to become acquainted -with the peculiar idiosyncrasies of a -vessel, for it is true that each one has -her own individuality, and it takes time -to comprehend her. In this they much -resemble the fair sex. It is a case of -whip and spur on one hand, and saddle -and bridle on the other. Which is to -wield the whip or wear the saddle is a -question between captain and ship. -The struggle is sometimes a long one, -but in the end mind conquers matter.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The captain, as in the case of Gen. -Paine and the <i>Mayflower</i>, eventually -gets the hang of her, brings her into a -state of submission, and compels her to -become a cup winner. The engineer in -his own sphere accomplishes similar results. -His machinery runs with the -regularity of a chronometer. His owner's -bills for coal and oil are confined -within reasonable limits. There are no -breakdowns. His firemen implicitly -obey his orders, and all goes well in engine-room -and stoke-hold.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If these few practical suggestions and -hints prove of any service to yachtsmen, -captains and engineers, the writer -will feel happy. He has simply touched -on the limits of a wide and fertile -subject that might be expatiated -upon at a large expense of paper and -printer's ink.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XIII.<br /> <br />USEFUL HINTS AND RECIPES.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>To whiten decks, mix oxalic acid -with fresh water in the proportion -of one pound to the gallon. -Apply lightly with a mop and wash off -immediately.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Good elastic marine glue for paying -seams after they are caulked, can be -made of one part of india rubber, twelve -parts of coal tar heated gently in a pitch -kettle, and twenty parts of shellac added -to the mixture. When about to use this -preparation, dip the caulking iron, used -to drive the oakum or cotton thread -into the seams, in naphtha, which dissolves -the glue and helps to closely -cement the seams. If oil is used instead -of naphtha, the glue will not adhere. -When melting marine glue for paying, -take care to heat it very slowly.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Mildew on sails is almost impossible -to remove, but the stains can be rendered -a little less unsightly by well -scrubbing the sail on both sides with -soap and fresh water, and then leaving -the sail to dry and bleach in the sun. -Avoid the use of chloride of lime or -other caustics or acids, which, while -they might take out the mildew stains, -would certainly rot the duck. Sometimes -sails must necessarily be stowed -when damp or wet, but they should be -<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>hoisted up to dry as soon as practicable. -Every boat should be provided with -water-proof sail covers.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Composition paints and other mixtures -for preventing the fouling of boats' -bottoms are plentiful as clams. Each -one is warranted to be a specific against -weeds and barnacles. But wooden or -iron vessels, however treated, if left for -any length of time at anchor anywhere -on the Atlantic or Pacific coasts, are -sure to become encrusted with barnacles -and to be covered with such a -rich growth of marine grasses as would -take some particularly active work with -a lawn mower to remove. Luckily small -boats can easily be hauled out and -scrubbed, but those with any pretension -to size should most certainly be coppered. -Copper in salt water will keep -clean for a long time, the exfoliation -being extensive. Some authorities recommend -that the copper be coated with -one or other of the compositions prepared -for that purpose, but I think that -to leave the copper clean will be more -satisfactory in the long run. A coppered -cruising vessel should not require -her bottom to be cleaned more than four -times in the season, but the oftener a -racing yacht is hauled out to have her -copper burnished the better should be -the result, so far as speed is concerned.</p> - -<p class='c007'>There are several capital paints in the -market with which to coat a yacht or -boat below the water-line. But admirable -though they may be, they are by -no means weed or barnacle proof.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>In choosing a binocular marine glass, -take care not to be persuaded into buying -a trashy article. A good one should -have a magnifying power of seven times, -as well as what is known as good definition—that -is, the quality of showing all -the outlines of an object with complete -distinctness and without any haziness. -To find out if a glass has this quality, -direct it at any object clearly outlined -against the sky—a church steeple, for -instance. If the outlines of the object are -indistinct, or if they are bordered with -violet, blue, orange or red light, reject -the glass, as it will never be worth anything. -The frame of the glass should -be rigid, or the tubes will become twisted -and then you will see two objects in -place of one. The more powerful a -glass is the less field it possesses. While -high power is desirable, it is well that -a glass should have a large field. A -poor glass is worse than none at all.</p> - -<p class='c007'>That sterling seaman, Capt. S. T. S. -Lecky, tells a capital story about a -marine glass, which I commend to anybody -about to purchase one. In the -window of a shop he noticed a binocular -with a tag on it, which asserted that the -glass had rendered an "object" visible -at the distance of ninety miles. This -was attested by a letter to be seen -within. The captain's curiosity was excited. -On inquiry in the shop he found -out that the "object" was none other -than the peak of the Island of Tristan -d'Acunha, in the Southern ocean, which -is so lofty that it can be seen in clear -<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>weather by the naked eye at a distance -of one hundred miles. Therefore I -say let your motto be <i>caveat emptor</i> -when you go cruising about in search of -either a cheap marine telescope or -binocular among marine store dealers or -pawnshops. Remember that clearness -of definition is more to be sought than -high magnifying power, as in misty -weather the glass with the last-named -quality in a marked degree magnifies -the haze as well as the object, and, of -course, makes it still more blurred and -indistinct—a defect on which it is unnecessary -for me to further enlarge.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It is hard to distinguish with a low-priced -binocular on a thick or rainy -night the color of a vessel's lights, a -white one sometimes appearing with a -green or reddish tinge, and a green one -looking like a white one. This applies -also to lightships and lighthouses, and -should make you careful as to your selection -of a glass.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Captain Lecky says the proper way to -test a binocular for night use is not to -stand at a shop door in broad daylight, -trying how much the glass enlarges -some distant clock-face, but to wait till -nightfall and test it by looking up a dark -street or passage, and if figures before -only dimly visible to the naked eye are -rendered tolerably clear by the aid of -the glasses, you may rest assured you -have hit on a suitable instrument. It -is well to go in the first place to an -optician, and not to a "shoptician" -versed in cheap-jack methods.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span> -<img src='images/i_175.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>LUNCHEON IN THE COCK-PIT</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span>Iron ballast should be coal-tarred, -painted, or white-washed with hot lime.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Masts and spars should be scraped -and sand-papered. If there are any -cracks in them, they should be stopped -with marine glue before scraping. Apply -a coat of wood-filler, then a coat of -spar composition. When hard, give a -second coat. Never apply varnish when -there is much moisture in the atmosphere. -In the vicinity of New York, -wait till the wind is northwest if you -wish to secure the best and most brilliant -results.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If your boat is white, when repainting -don't forget to mix a little blue -with your white lead, raw linseed oil -and dryers. This cerulean dash improves -the look of the paint, and is far -better than black, which produces a -ghastly tint.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_176.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>SCOWING AN ANCHOR.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>When for any purpose it becomes -necessary or desirable to anchor a small -boat on ground known, or suspected, to -be foul, it is advisable to scow the anchor. -Unbend the cable from the ring; -make the end fast round the crown -shank and flukes with a clove hitch, and -bring the end <i>a</i> back to <i>s</i>, and stop it -round the cable with a piece of spunyarn; -take the cable back to the shackle -and stop it as at <i>b</i>. When the cable is -<span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>hauled upon by the part <i>o</i>, the stop at -<i>b</i> will part and the fluke of the anchor -can be easily broken out and lifted. For -larger vessels a trip-line is sometimes -bent to the crown and buoyed instead -of scowing the anchor.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A capital composition for painting the -bottoms of boats up to the water-line is -made as follows: Take one pound of -red lead, four ounces of copper bronze -powder, the same weights of arsenic, -chrome yellow and paris blue, one pint -of dryers, one pint of boiled oil and one -pint of copal varnish. Mix thoroughly, -strain and apply. If too thick add more -varnish. It will dry a rich copper color. -It is neither barnacle nor weed proof, -but is as good as some of the more expensive -paints which pretend to possess -both these qualities. Before painting, -scrub the wood well and smooth down -with pumice stone. Let it thoroughly -dry before you begin to use the brush.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A good black paint for the outside of -boats is made thus: To six pounds of -best black paint add one pound of dark -blue paint and half a pint of dryers. -Mix with equal quantities of raw and -boiled linseed oil until of the proper -consistency. Stir well. Strain carefully, -and then add one pint of copal varnish.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To stop cracks in a spar: When the -spar is thoroughly dry run in marine -glue. When the glue is hard scrape -some of it out and stop the crevice with -putty stained the same color as the spar.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Iron mould and other stains can be -removed from a deck by a solution of one -<span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>part of muriatic acid and three parts of -water.</p> -<h3 class='c013'>THE LEAD LINE.</h3> -<p class='c014'>The hand lead weighs fourteen pounds. -The line to which it is attached is twenty-five -fathoms long, and is marked as follows: -At two fathoms, leather with two -ends; at three fathoms, leather with -three ends; at five fathoms, white muslin; -at seven fathoms, red bunting; at -ten fathoms, leather with hole in it; at -thirteen fathoms, blue serge; at fifteen -fathoms, white muslin; at seventeen -fathoms, red bunting; at twenty fathoms, -strand with two knots in it. By -the different feel of the materials used -it is easy to distinguish the marks in the -dark. In sounding when the boat is in -motion, swing the lead round and heave -it as far forward as you can. By filling -the hollow at the base of the lead with -grease or tallow, a sample of the bottom -mud or sand adheres to it, which may be -useful in verifying the position of the -boat by comparing it with the chart on -which the nature of the bottom is indicated.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The first fathom of the hand lead line -for use in a boat of light draught may -be marked off in feet in any legible -manner satisfactory to the marker.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The marks on the deep sea lead line -commence with two knots at twenty -fathoms, another knot being added for -every ten fathoms, and a single knot at -each intermediate five.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A hand lead for use in a small craft -need not be so heavy as fourteen pounds.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>It may not be generally known that -all watches are compasses if used according -to the following instructions. Point -the hour hand to the Sun, and the South -is exactly half-way between the hour -and the figure XII on the dial. For -instance, suppose it is four o'clock; -point the hand indicating four to the -Sun, and II on the dial is South. Suppose -again it is eight o'clock; point the -hand indicating eight to the Sun, and -the figure X on the dial is South. Some -cranks carry a compass card in their -watch case so that they may always -determine without delay or trouble the -direction of the wind whenever the Sun -is visible.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_179.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span> -<img src='images/i_180.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Photo by J. S. Johnston.</span><br /><br /><span class='small'>"HALF RATERS."</span></p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XIV.<br /> <br />RULE OF THE ROAD AT SEA.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>The boat sailer must possess a -knowledge of the rule of the road -at sea, unless he wants his sport -brought to an untimely end by collision. -He should become thoroughly familiar -with the International Steering and -Sailing Rules, so that if he encounters -steamships, fishing craft, pilot boats, etc., -he will be able so to maneuver his own -vessel as to escape collision.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The prudent skipper of a little vessel -should always give steamships and ferryboats -a wide berth. Big steamships -sometimes are slow to answer their -helms, and often will not get out of the -way of small craft, although compelled -to by international law. Should your -boat be run down by one of these monsters -of the deep you, of course, have -your remedy in a court, but you are apt -to find litigation very expensive when -suing a steamship company, and a suit -often lingers for years until, having exhausted -every process, it finds itself at -last on the calendar of the Supreme -Court of the United States.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It is not advisable to attempt to cross -the bows of a steamer unless you have -plenty of room and you are a good judge -of distances. Steam vessels go at a -faster rate than they seem to, and the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>momentum of their impact is very great. -Instead of crossing a steamer's bow go -about on the other tack, or haul your -foresheet to windward till she has passed. -Discretion is always the better part -of valor. Not to monkey with ocean -steamships or ferryboats is as valuable -advice as that time-honored warning to -boys not to fool with the buzz-saw.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Do not get "rattled," whatever you -do, but keep your eyes "skinned" and -your head clear.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Skippers of ferryboats often try to -show off their smartness by steering as -close as possible to small pleasure boats -and then giving them the benefit of their -wash, sometimes swamping their unfortunate -victims. It is fun for the fellow -in the ferryboat's pilot-house, but it -is the reverse of pleasant to the man -wallowing in the seething water. Therefore, -do not court danger by approaching -too near these unwieldy marine -brutes, but if you are so luckless as to get -into their wash handle your boat so that -she shall not get into the trough of the -waves, but take the sea on the bluff of -the bow, where it will do the least harm.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Navigation by daylight in fine, clear -weather is easy, but when it is dark and -foggy special precautions must be taken -or collision is inevitable. I do not propose -to reprint in this little book the -full text of the international regulations -for preventing collisions at sea, but I -have prepared an abstract, which will -be sufficient for the practical purposes -of an amateur sailor.</p> -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span> - <h3 class='c013'>LIGHTS.</h3> -</div> -<p class='c014'>Between sunset and sunrise the following -lights shall be carried by a -steamship when under way:</p> - -<p class='c007'>At the foremast head a bright white -light, visible on a clear night at a distance -of five miles, showing the light -ten points on either side of the ship -from right ahead to two points abaft -the beam.</p> - -<p class='c007'>On the starboard side a green light -showing from right ahead to two points -abaft the beam, visible at a distance of -two miles.</p> - -<p class='c007'>On the port side a red light similar in -all respects, except color, to the green -light.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To prevent these green and red lights -from being seen across the bow they -must be fitted with inboard screens projecting -at least three feet forward from -the light.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Steamships towing other vessels shall -carry two white masthead lights in addition -to their side lights.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Sailing vessels when under way or -being towed shall carry only the green -and red lights as provided for steamships -under way.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Small vessels that cannot carry fixed -side lights in bad weather must have -them on deck on their respective sides -ready for instant exhibition on the approach -of another vessel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>All vessels at anchor shall show where -it can best be seen, at a height not exceeding -twenty feet above the hull, a -white light in a globular lantern of eight -<span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>inches in diameter, visible all round the -horizon at a distance of at least a mile.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Pilot vessels shall only carry a white -light at the masthead, visible all round -the horizon, and shall exhibit a flare-up -light every fifteen minutes.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Open boats are not required to carry -fixed sidelights, but must, in default of -such, be provided with a lantern, having -a green slide on one side and a red slide -on the other, which must be properly -shown in time to prevent collision, -taking care that the green light shall not -be seen on the port side nor the red -light on the starboard side.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fishing and open boats, when at -anchor or riding to their nets and stationary, -shall exhibit a bright white -light, and may, in addition, use a flare-up -light if deemed expedient.</p> -<h3 class='c013'>FOG SIGNALS.</h3> -<p class='c014'>In fog, mist, or falling snow, whether -by day or night, a steamship under way -shall blow a prolonged blast of her -steam whistle every two minutes, or -oftener. A sailing vessel under way -shall blow her foghorn (which must be -sounded by a bellows or other mechanical -device and not by mouth power) at -intervals of not less than two minutes, -when on the starboard tack one blast, -when on the port tack two blasts in succession, -and when with the wind abaft -the beam three blasts in succession.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Vessels not under way shall ring the -bell at intervals of not less than two -minutes.</p> -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span> - <h3 class='c013'>STEERING AND SAILING RULES<br />FOR SAILING VESSELS.</h3> -</div> -<p class='c014'>A ship running free shall keep out of -the way of a ship closehauled.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A ship closehauled on the port tack -shall keep out of the way of a ship closehauled -on the starboard tack.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When both are running free with the -wind on different sides, the ship which -has the wind on the port side shall keep -out of the way of the other.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When both are running free with the -wind on the same side, the ship which -is to windward shall keep out of the way -of the ship to leeward.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A ship which has the wind aft shall -keep out of the way of the other ship.</p> -<h3 class='c013'>FOR STEAM VESSELS.</h3> -<p class='c014'>If two ships under steam are meeting -end on, or nearly end on, so as to involve -risk of collision, each shall alter -her course to starboard so that each -may pass on the port side of the other.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If two ships under steam are crossing -so as to involve risk of collision, the ship -which has the other on her own starboard -side shall keep out of the way of -the other.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Steamships must, in cases where there -is risk of collision, keep out of the way -of sailing vessels.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A vessel, whether sail or steam, when -overtaking another, must keep out of -the way of the overtaken ship.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Where by the above rules one of two -ships is to keep out of the way, the other -shall keep her course.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>The following rhymes should be committed -to memory:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>When both sidelights you see ahead,</div> - <div class='line'>Port your helm and show your red!</div> - <div class='line'>Green to green or red to red,</div> - <div class='line'>Perfect safety—go ahead!</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>If on the port tack you steer,</div> - <div class='line'>It is your duty to keep clear</div> - <div class='line'>Of every closehauled ship ahead,</div> - <div class='line'>No matter whether green or red.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>But when upon your port is seen</div> - <div class='line'>A stranger's starboard light of green,</div> - <div class='line'>There's not so much for you to do,</div> - <div class='line'>For green to port keeps clear of you.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>A ship which is being overtaken by -another shall show from her stern to -such last-mentioned ship a white light -or a flare-up light. This rule was only -adopted in 1884, but I saw it practically -exemplified in the ship <i>Rajah of Cochin</i> -in the year 1874. The <i>Rajah</i> was running -down the Southeast trades one -pitch dark night in April, homeward -bound; I was in charge of the deck. -We had studdingsails set on both sides, -on the mainmast and foremast. Suddenly -out of the darkness astern there -loomed up the sails on the foremast of -a big ship whose jibboom seemed to be -right over the <i>Rajah's</i> stern. She carried -no side lights, her skipper being -probably of an economical turn of mind. -I took the lighted lamp out of the binnacle, -and jumping on the wheel gratings -waved it as high as I could, at the -same time yelling with all my might. I -could hear the man on the lookout -<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>aboard the pursuing vessel roar out, and -then came a clatter and a rattle of ropes -and a flapping of sails as with her helm -hard to port the ship that was pursuing -us luffed out across our stern. She -snapped off a few stunsail booms, but -that was better than running us down. -Capt. Sedgwick, who was in command -of the <i>Rajah</i>, was awakened by the noise -and came up from below in his pajamas. -He quickly realized what a close shave -his ship had experienced.</p> -<h3 class='c013'>BUOYS AND BEACONS.</h3> -<p class='c014'>In approaching channels from seaward -red buoys marked with even numbers -will be found on the starboard side of -the channel and must be left on the -starboard side in passing in. Black -buoys with odd numbers will be found -on the port side of the channel and must -be left on the port hand in passing in.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Buoys with red and black horizontal -stripes will be found on obstructions -with channel ways on either side of -them, and may be left on either hand.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Buoys painted with black and white -perpendicular stripes will be found in -mid-channel, and must be passed close -aboard to avoid danger.</p> - -<p class='c007'>All other marks to buoys will be in -addition to the foregoing and may be -employed to mark particular spots, a -description of which will be found in -the printed Government lists.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Perches, with balls, cages, etc., will, -when placed on buoys, be at turning -points, the color and number indicating -on what side they shall be passed.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XV.<br /> <br />THE COMPASS.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4__6 c005'>I have no space in this volume to -write an exhaustive chapter on navigation. -It is, however, an art easily -acquired, and may be wholly self-taught. -There are certain rudimentary rules for -finding one's way at sea by dead reckoning, -that everyone starting out on a -cruise should master. The instruments -needful are a compass, parallel rulers, -dividers, patent log, lead line, aneroid -barometer, clock, and the necessary -charts of the sea which it is proposed -to navigate.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In a small cruiser a compass is generally -carried in a portable binnacle. -When steering by it take care that the -lubber's point is in a direct line with -the keel or stem and sternpost. For the -benefit of the uninitiated, I will explain -that the lubber's point is the black vertical -line in the foreside of the compass -bowl, by which the direction of the vessel's -head is determined. A misplaced -lubber's point is sure to cause grave -errors in the course actually made. The -compass should be as far removed as -possible from ironwork of any kind. A -spirit compass, as I have remarked -elsewhere, is the only kind suitable for -small craft. Those with cards of hard -<span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span>enamel, floating in undiluted alcohol, -which renders freezing impossible, are -the best. The amateur boat sailer should -become familiar with the compass, be -able to box it by both points and degrees, -and to name its back bearings.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_189.jpg' alt='compass' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The points of the compass are thirty-two -in number, as follows:</p> - -<p class='c007'>North</p> - -<p class='c007'>North by East</p> - -<p class='c007'>North, North-East</p> - -<p class='c007'>North-East by N.</p> - -<p class='c007'>North-East</p> - -<p class='c007'>North-East by E.</p> - -<p class='c007'>East, North-East</p> - -<p class='c007'>East by North</p> - -<p class='c007'>East</p> - -<p class='c007'>East by South</p> - -<p class='c007'>East, South-East</p> - -<p class='c007'>South-East by E.</p> - -<p class='c007'>South-East</p> - -<p class='c007'>South-East by S.</p> - -<p class='c007'>South, South-E.</p> - -<p class='c007'>South by East</p> - -<p class='c007'>South</p> - -<p class='c007'>South by West</p> - -<p class='c007'>South, South-W.</p> - -<p class='c007'>South-West by S.</p> - -<p class='c007'>South-West</p> - -<p class='c007'>South-West by W.</p> - -<p class='c007'>West, South-W.</p> - -<p class='c007'>West by South</p> - -<p class='c007'>West</p> - -<p class='c007'>West by North</p> - -<p class='c007'>West, North-West</p> - -<p class='c007'>North-West by W.</p> - -<p class='c007'>North-West</p> - -<p class='c007'>North-West by W.</p> - -<p class='c007'>North, North-W.</p> - -<p class='c007'>North by West</p> - -<p class='c007'>North</p> - -<p class='c007'>These points are sub-divided into -quarter points, and again into degrees. -The table given on pages 142-143 shows -the angles which every point and quarter -point of the compass makes with the -meridian:</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>POINTS, ANGLES AND BACK BEARINGS OF THE COMPASS.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_190.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_191.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>The mariner's compass does not, however, -give the true direction of the various -points of the horizon. The needle -points to the magnetic North and not to -the true North, the difference between -them being called the variation of the -compass, which differs widely in various -parts of the world, being sometimes -easterly and sometimes westerly, and -constantly changing. The amount is -generally marked on the charts. In -New York the variation for 1894 was 8° -26´ West, or three-quarters of a point to -the West of the true North. Thus, to -make good a true North course, the vessel -would have to steer North three-quarters -West. A rule easy to remember -is that westerly variation is allowed to -the left of the compass course, or bearing, -and that easterly variation is allowed -to the right of the compass course -or bearing.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To convert true courses and bearings -into compass courses and bearings with -variation westerly, allow it to the right -of the true course or bearing, and with -variation easterly allow it to the left of -the true course or bearing.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Deviation is another error of the compass -caused by local attraction, such as -the ironwork and iron ballast in a boat, -or the proximity of a marlinespike to the -binnacle. In a wooden boat, if proper -care is taken, there should be no appreciable -deviation of the compass. Deviation -can be discovered by swinging the -boat as she lies at her moorings, having -first obtained the true magnetic bearing -<span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span>of some distant object, such as a lighthouse -or a church steeple. As the vessel's -head comes to each point of the -compass, a compass bearing is taken of -the object, and the difference between -that bearing and the true magnetic bearing -is observed and noted, and afterward -tabulated. It will often be found -that the deviation differs not only in -amount, but in name, for different -directions of the ship's head, being -easterly at certain points and westerly -at others.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The rule is to allow westerly deviation -to the left to get the correct magnetic -course, and easterly deviation to -the right to get the correct magnetic -course.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To find out the error of the compass -in order to steer a true course, the <i>sum</i> -of the deviation and the variation when -both are of the same name, and their -<i>difference</i> when they have different -names, must be ascertained. For instance, -deviation 20° West and variation -25° West, would give an error of compass -45° West, which should be applied to the -left.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If the deviation was 20° East and the -variation 10° West, the difference between -them would be 10° East, which -compass error should be applied to the -right to steer a true course.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In order to find the compass course or -course to steer, proceed as follows, the -true course being North 40° East, the variation -being 38° West and the deviation -18° East:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in5'><span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span>Variation, 38° W., being of contrary names, take their difference.</div> - <div class='line in5'>Deviation, 18° E.</div> - <div class='line in16'>------</div> - <div class='line in5'>Correction, 20°, apply to the right, being westerly.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>True course N.40° E.</div> - <div class='line in17'>------</div> - <div class='line'>Compass course N.60° E.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Another example is given where the -variation and deviation are both easterly -and the true course is S., 75° West.</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line in8'>Variation, 24° W., being of same name.</div> - <div class='line in8'>Deviation, 16° W., add together.</div> - <div class='line in18'>------</div> - <div class='line in7'>Correction, 40°, apply to the left, being easterly.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>True course, S. 75° W.</div> - <div class='line in16'>------</div> - <div class='line'>Compass course, S. 35° W.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>A volume might be written on the -mariner's compass. It is a fascinating -study, but unfortunately my space is -limited.</p> - -<p class='c007'>There is another correction to the -compass that the amateur should have -cognizance of. It is called leeway, and -is, in untechnical language, the drift -that the ship makes sideways through -the water because of the force of the -wind or the impulsive heave of the sea. -Some craft, because of deficiency in the -element of lateral resistance, such as in -the case of a shallow, "skimming-dish" -sort of a boat, with the centerboard -hoisted up, will go to leeward like a -crab. Others of a different type, such -as the "plank-on-edge" variety, with a -lead line attached, will hang on to windward -<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>in a wonderful manner. It requires, -therefore, a certain amount of -judgment as well as of knowledge in -this particular section of nautical lore -to be able to estimate with any degree -of approximate certainty the leeway a -vessel may happen to make. It should -not be forgotten that build has much -to do with this, and that trim and -draught of water are also two powerful -elements in this connection. For instance, -a boat with outside lead and a -centerboard in a strong breeze and a -lumpy sea, so long as the wind permitted -her to carry a commanding spread -of sail, might make no appreciable leeway, -but, on the contrary, might "eat -up" into the wind. But given the same -boat without the lead and without the -adventitious aid that the centerboard -affords, she would be compelled to -dowse her muslin at the first puff, and -as a purely physical consequence she -would retain no hold on the water and -would drift off to leeward like an irresponsible -she-crab.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Thus leeway must be estimated by -experience. It is often a most disturbing -quantity, especially when the weather -is foggy and the channel in which -you are steering is perplexing on account -of rocks or shoals. I have already -expatiated on the wisdom of -anchoring in such a contingency as this -whenever the elements will permit. -But, of course, one is a slave of the -winds and the waves, and "bringing-up" -is not always possible. I should, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span>therefore, advise the amateur to carefully -watch his boat and endeavor to -find out approximately the amount of -leeway she makes when the first reef is -taken in by comparing the direction of -the fore and aft line of the boat with -that of her wake. This method may -also be pursued with advantage under -all conditions of wind and weather, -and by this means a moderately correct -and very useful table may be made.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The old navigators like the Drakes -and the Frobishers had this matter arranged -for them, so when they sailed -forth on voyages of great emprise and -portent they were guided by certain -tabulated formula that gave them full -and implicit directions for the allowance -of leeway. Thus the skipper of a -ship with topgallantsails furled was told -to allow one point; when under double-reefed -topsails, one point and a half; -when under close-reefed topsails, two -points; when the topsails are furled, -three points and a half; when the fore-course -is furled, four points; when under -the mainsail only, five points; when -under the balanced mizzen or mizzen -staysail, six points; and when under -bare poles, seven points.</p> - -<p class='c007'>This antiquated method of computation -answered very well, for those sterling -and sturdy navigators of the olden -times seemed to have had a rare faculty -of achieving their adventurous purpose -and of gaining, too, both fame and fortune. -But the commander of a clipper -ship, with whom I sailed as a youngster, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>undertook to demonstrate to me the absurdity -of any such hard-and-fast rule. -We had carried away our three topgallant -masts, off Cape Agulhas, while -threshing hard against a westerly gale. -They were whipped out of us like pipe-stems. -It took all hands a whole day to -clear away the wreck. Next day the -weather moderated sufficiently for us to -have carried every stitch of canvas could -we have set it. There were a number -of vessels beating round the Cape, and -all took advantage of the cessation of -the gale to spread all their flying kites -to the breeze. Our ship, under three -topsails, inner and outer jibs, foresail, -mainsail, crossjack, spanker, foretopmast, -maintopmast and mizzentopmast -staysails, beat all the fleet. When it -came on to blow again we were the first -to reef, because some of our rigging had -got badly strained in the squall that took -our topgallantmasts away. Still we -maintained our lead, although jogging -along comfortably while our opponents -were driving at it, hugging their topgallantsails -and with lee rails under.</p> - -<p class='c007'>"Now," said our captain, coming on -the poop after he had worked up his -dead reckoning at noontime, "you see -all those ships dead to leeward—well -they ought to be to windward of us -unless all the books on navigation are -wrong. I have entered in my traverse-table -the courses we were supposed -to have made good under the old rule, -and have thus proved its falsity. The -fact is the ships that were turned out in -<span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>the days when these nautical axioms -were first propounded were built by the -mile and cut off in lengths to suit. -They had no shape to speak of below -the water-line, and perhaps the rule applied -to each alike. Times are different -now, and leeway must be determined by -the model of the ship."</p> - -<p class='c007'>The rule for reckoning leeway is as -follows:</p> - -<p class='c007'>Wind on starboard side, allow leeway -to the left.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Wind on port side, allow leeway to the -right.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Or you may thus define it:</p> - -<p class='c007'>Vessel on starboard tack, allow leeway -to the left.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Vessel on port tack, allow leeway to -the right.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In this connection it might be well to -urge the young mariner against keeping -his boat all a-shiver and bucking -against a head sea, and all the while -sagging off bodily to leeward. It is better -far to keep the wake right astern -and keep way on the vessel—unless, of -course, the weather is too violent.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The direction and rate of tides and -currents have also to be allowed for -when correcting a compass course. -Thus in crossing Long Island Sound -from Larchmont to Oyster Bay in thick -weather, the magnetic course as given -in the Government chart would have to -be rectified and allowance made for the -condition of the tide, whether ebb or -flood, or your boat might never reach -her destination.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XVI.<br /> <br />CHARTS.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>There are no better charted coasts -in the world than those bounded -by the North Atlantic and Pacific -Oceans. The United States Navy -has done and is doing magnificent hydrographic -work. The charts issued by the -Government are accurate, reliable, up-to-date -and reasonable in price.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The top of a chart when spread out -in front of you so that the reading part -appears to you like the page of a book, -and you can read it from left to right, is -the North, the bottom is the South, the -side on your right is the East, and the -side on your left is the West. There -are always compasses on a chart, either -true or magnetic, by reference to which -and with the aid of the parallel rulers -the bearing of one point from another -may easily be ascertained by the following -method:</p> - -<p class='c007'>Lay the edge of the rulers over the -two places; then slide them (preserving -the direction) till the edge of one ruler -is on the center of the nearest compass; -when this is done read off the course indicated -by the direction of the ruler.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To measure the distance between two -places on the chart spread out the dividers -till their points are over them, then -<span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>apply to the graduated scale at the bottom -of the chart, which will give you the -required distance. This method, it should -be remembered, is only accurate when -applied to the large coasting charts. -When measuring distances on general -charts which extend across many degrees -of latitude, the mean latitude of the two -places must be measured from.</p> - -<p class='c007'>There are certain signs and abbreviations -used on charts which are easily -comprehended, such as <i>hrd</i> for hard, <i>rky</i> -for rocky, etc. Lighthouses and lightships -are clearly marked, and shoals, -rocks and other obstructions to navigation -are plainly defined. All the marginal -notes on the charts should be -made familiar by the navigator. I need -scarcely say that charts, instruments -and books of sailing instructions should -be kept dry. There are cylindrical tin -boxes for charts which are quite cheap, -and these I recommend.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_200.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 6.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The position of a vessel may be ascertained -simply and accurately by cross-bearings. -Suppose you are in a ship at -<i>A</i> in Fig. 6. The point with the lighthouse -<span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span>on it bears correct magnetic N. by -W., and the point with the tree on it E. -by N. You lay the parallel rules over -the compass on your chart at N. by W., -and work them to the lighthouse, preserving -the direction. You then draw -the line from the lighthouse to <i>a</i>. You -then lay the parallel rules over the compass -on your chart at E. by N., and work -them in a similar way to the tree. Then -draw the line from the tree to <i>a</i>. The -spot where the two lines cut was the -vessel's position on the chart when the -bearings were first taken. The distance -of the ship from both lighthouse and -tree can be measured by taking in the -dividers the distance between either -and the ship, and referring to the scale -on the chart.</p> - -<p class='c007'>It should be remembered that when -sailing along the land cross-bearings -will always determine your position, -always allowing the proper corrections -on the compass. In taking cross-bearings, -try to have a difference between -the two objects of as nearly ninety degrees -as possible.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The old-fashioned log-ship and log-line -for determining the distance run -by a vessel need have no place in the -equipment of a small yacht. There are -several patent self-registering logs -which record the distance run, either -on the taffrail or on dials on the log -itself. Their performance is fairly -satisfactory, but they should be kept -well oiled, and should be often examined -<span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span>and tested—for instance, in a run -between two objects whose distance -apart is well known.</p> - -<p class='c007'>By careful attention to the Lead, the -Log and the Look-out, a boat may be -navigated, by dead reckoning, with a -certain amount of accuracy.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A nautical mile, or knot, is the same -as a geographical mile. Its length is -six thousand and eighty feet. A statute -mile in the United States measures five -thousand two hundred and eighty feet.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_202.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XVII.<br /> <br />MARLINESPIKE SEAMANSHIP.<br /> <br />WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SPLICES<br />KNOTS AND BENDS.</h2> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_203.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>MARLINESPIKE.</span></p> -</div> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>The amateur -yachtsman -should be able -to make all the -splices and most of -the knots in common use. This knowledge -will come in quite handy when -fitting out his craft in the spring, and -will save him the expense of hiring a -sailor to do the work. I have spent -many happy hours in rigging a fifteen-ton -cutter, doing all the work myself -(except stepping the mast) with the aid -of a boy.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A few fathoms of rope, a marlinespike, -a knife, a small pot of grease, a ball of -spun yarn, another of marline and one -of roping twine, and you are equipped -for work. Splicing ropes and making -fancy knots may be made a quite pleasant -way of spending a winter's evening. -It keeps one out of mischief, and the art -once learned is rarely forgotten. I think -if you follow my directions and take -heed of the diagrams that accompany -them (which I have taken pains to -make as clear as possible) you will have -no difficulty in becoming quite expert -in the use of a marlinespike.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id011'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span> -<img src='images/i_204a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The ends of all ropes, -whether belonging to -the running or standing -rigging, must be whipped -with tarred roping -twine or they will unravel. -Take the rope in your left hand -and lap the twine round it very tight a -dozen times, taking care that the end lies -under the first turns so as to secure it. -Then make a loop with the twine and continue -the lapping for four turns round the -rope and the end of the twine, as shown -above. Haul taut and cut off the end.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id012'> -<img src='images/i_204b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Eye Splice</span>—Unlay -the rope and -lay the strands -E, F, G at the -proper distance -upon the standing -part, as -shown at A. Now -push the strand H through the strand -next to it, as shown in B, having first -opened it with a marlinespike. Strand I -is then thrust over the part through -which H was passed. Strand K is -thrust through the third on the other -side. Repeat the process with each -strand, and then hammer the splice into -shape with the butt of the marlinespike. -Stretch and cut off the ends of the -strands. If particular neatness is required, -the strands, after having been -passed through the standing part the -first time, should be halved and passed -again, and then still further tapered by -being quartered before being passed -<span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span>for the third and last time. An eye -splice is useful. Standing rigging should -have eyes spliced in to go over the -mast-head, and for dead-eyes to be -turned in, etc.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_205a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>FIG. 1.</span><br /><br /><span class='small'>FIG. 2.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Short Splice</span>—Unlay the ends of two -ropes of the same size and bring their -ends together, as shown in Fig. 1. Hold -the rope D and the strands A, B and -C in the left hand. Pass the strand -E over A and under C of rope H and -haul taut. Pass strand G over B and -under A. Pass strand F over the -strand next to it and under the second. -Turn the rope round and treat -the other side in the same way, when -the splice will be like Fig. 2. The single -tucking of the strands will not, however, -be strong enough, and the process -should be repeated on both sides, halving -the strands for the sake of neatness. -This splice is used only for rope that is -not required to run through a block.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_205b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 1.</span><br /><br /><span class='small'>Fig. 2.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Long Splice</span>—Unlay the ends of the -two ropes that are to be joined some -two or three feet, according to the size -<span class='pageno' id='Page_210'>210</span>of the rope. Place the two ends together, -as shown in Fig. 1. Unlay strand -C and lead it back to A; then take D -and lay it up in the space left by C. -Do this with the strands E and F on the -opposite side. The rope will now look -like Fig. 2. Give the two middle strands, -G and H, a lick of tar if the rope is of -hemp, and grease if of manilla, and -knot them together with an overhand -knot, taking care that the knot is so -formed as to follow the lay of the -rope. Then halve these strands and -pass them over one strand and under -two. Treat the remaining strands in -the same way, after which stretch the -rope well and cut off the ends of the -strands. A long splice is the neatest -way there is of putting two ends of a -rope together. If well made it does -not increase the diameter of the rope, -and therefore renders through blocks -as though it did not exist. If one -strand of a rope is chafed through -while the other two are sound, a new -strand may be put in to replace it, and -the ends may be finished off in the -same way as in a long splice.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_206a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Cut Splice</span>—A cut -splice is made the -same as an eye -splice, only with -two ropes instead of one.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_206b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Overhand Knot</span>—It is -used at the ends of ropes -to prevent them from -unreeving. There should always be -one in the end of the mainsheet, which -<span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span>is difficult to reeve again in anything -like a breeze.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id013'> -<img src='images/i_207a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Reef Knot</span>—It is always -used to tie the reef points -of a sail. First make an -overhand knot and then -pass the ends so that they take the same -lay as the crossed parts of the overhand -knot. If passed the other way, the knot -will form what sailors call a granny, -which will slip when it is subjected to -a strain.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id014'> -<img src='images/i_207b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Bowline Knot</span>—Take the end -(1) of the rope in the right -hand and the standing part -(2) in the left hand. Lay the -end over the standing part -and turn the left wrist so that -the standing part forms a -loop (4) enclosing the end. -Next lead the end back of the standing -part and above the loop, and bring the -end down through the loop as shown. -This is a very useful knot.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id015'> -<img src='images/i_207c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Running Bowline</span>—It is made -by passing the end of a rope -round its standing part and -forming a bowline as in -Fig. 8.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id016'> -<img src='images/i_207d.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Bowline on a Bight</span>—To -make it, double the rope and -take the doubled end (1) in -the right hand, the standing -part (2) of the rope in the -left hand. Lay the end over -the standing part, and by -turning the left wrist form -a loop (3) having the end -<span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>inside. Next pull up enough of the end -(1) to dip under the bight (4), bringing -the end towards the right and dipping -it under the bight, then passing it up to -the left over the loop and hauling taut.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id017'> -<img src='images/i_208a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Two Half Hitches</span>—Pass -the end of the rope round -the standing part and bring -it up through the bight. -This makes a half hitch. Repeat -the process and haul -taut. If the knot is to bear a great -strain, seize the end back with spunyarn -to the standing part.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_208b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Timber Hitch</span>—Pass -the end of a rope -round the spar, then -round the standing -part <i>b</i>, then several times round its -own part <i>c</i> against the lay of the rope.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_208c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Gaff Topsail Halyard -Bend</span>—Pass two turns -round the spar, then -lead the end back -round the standing -part and underneath -all the turns, bringing -it round to its own part and back again -over the two outer turns and underneath -the inner turn.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id018'> -<img src='images/i_208d.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Blackwall Hitch</span>—It is the -simplest method known of -making fast the end of a rope -to the hook of a tackle. The -figure is self-explanatory, the -underneath part or the rope -being jammed hard and fast by the -strain on the hook.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id019'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span> -<img src='images/i_209a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Common Bend</span>—Make a -bight with the end of one -rope, and pass the end of -the other through the bight -from beneath, and round -both parts with the end -under its own standing -part. The greater the -strain, the faster will this bend jam.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_209b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Magnus Hitch</span>—Pass -two round turns with -the end of a rope over -a spar, then take it before -the standing part, -pass it again under the -spar and up through -the bight.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_209c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Selvagee -Strop</span>—It is -made by driving -two nails -into a length of plank at a distance -apart equal to the desired length of the -strop. Make fast one end of a ball of -spunyarn or knotted ropeyarns to one -of the nails and pass it round the other, -continuing the process until the strop -is as thick as required. Marl it down -with spunyarn and sew canvas or leather -round it if intended for a block.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id020'> -<img src='images/i_209d.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Grommet Strop</span>—It is -made of a single strand -of rope. To make it, lay -one end over the other -at the size required, and -with the long end follow the lay round -until a ring is formed with three parts -of the strand all round. Finish by dividing -<span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>the ends, overhand knotting, and -passing them over one strand and under -the other exactly as in a long splice. -To make a neat job, use a strand from -rope that has been some time in use -and is well stretched. The strand should -be about a foot more than three times -the length of the strop, to allow for the -knotting. It may be wormed and covered -with canvas or leather if intended -for a block.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_210.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 19.</span><br /><br /><span class='small'>Fig. 20.</span><br /><br /><span class='small'>Fig. 21.</span><br /><br /><span class='small'>Fig. 22.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Figs. 19 and 20 show a Wall Knot. -Unlay the end of a rope and with the -strand A in Fig. 19 form a bight, hold it -down at the side B, pass the end of -the next strand C, round A, the end of -strand D round C and through the bight -of A. Haul taut and the knot is made -as in Fig. 20. This can be crowned by -taking strand in Fig. 21 and laying it -over the top of the knot. Then lay B -over A, and C over B and through the -bight of A and haul taut. Fig. 22 shows -a double wall and double crown, which -is made by letting the ends follow their -own parts round until all the parts -appear double, first walling and then -crowning.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id021'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span> -<img src='images/i_211a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='sc'>Matthew Walker Knot</span>—Made -by unlaying the end of -a rope and taking the end A -round the rope and through -its own bight, the strand B -underneath through the -bight of A, and the strand -C underneath through the bights of -strands A and B, and hauling all the -strands taut. This knot is used principally -for the ends of lanyards. In -making these knots a whipping of sailmaker's -twine should be put round the -rope where the knot is to be when -formed.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_211b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>This illustration -shows -the process of -worming a -rope, which consists of winding spunyarn -of suitable size into the space -between the strands with the lay of -the rope, so as to make the rope smooth -for parcelling. This must be done with -the rope on the stretch. A shows the -spunyarn.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_211c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>This illustration -shows the process of -parcelling and serving. -After the -worming is finished -wrap narrow strips of canvas—tarred, -if the rope is of hemp, and painted if it -is of wire—round the rope with the lay, -secure the parcelling to the rope by -marling it with twine, the rope can then -be served against the lay. Lay the -serving mallet B with its groove on the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>rope. Take a turn with the spunyarn -round the rope and head of the mallet, -round the side next you, and two turns -on the other side and twist it round the -handle. Get an assistant to pass the -ball A round the rope while you heave -round the mallet. The last half-dozen -turns of the service must have the end -of the spunyarn put through them and -hauled taut to secure it.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_212.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_217'>217</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XVIII.<br /> <br />WEATHER "WRINKLES"</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_5 c005'>The boat sailer or yachtsman should -be able, from close observation of -the barometer and the general -appearance of the sky, to foretell -the weather with a certain degree -of accuracy. The aneroid barometer is -peculiarly sensitive to all atmospheric -changes, and is thus invaluable for -meteorological forecasts. A regular -code of phenomena has been formulated -by meteorologists, from which I take -the following:</p> - -<p class='c007'>A rapid rise indicates unsettled -weather.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A gradual rise indicates settled -weather.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A rise with dry air and cold increasing -in summer indicates wind from the -northward, and if rain has fallen better -weather may be expected.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A rise with moist air and a low temperature -indicates a continuance of fine -weather.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A rapid fall indicates stormy weather.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A rapid fall with westerly wind indicates -stormy weather from northward.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A fall with northerly wind indicates -storm with rain and hail in summer and -snow in winter.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_218'>218</span>A fall with increased moisture in -the air and increasing heat indicates -southerly wind and rain.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A fall after very calm and warm -weather indicates rain and squalls.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The barometer rises for a northerly -wind, including from northwest by -north to the eastward, for dry or less -wet weather, for less wind, or for more -than one of these changes, except on a -few occasions when rain, hail or snow -comes from the northward with strong -wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The barometer falls for a southerly -wind, including from southeast by south -to the westward, for wet weather, for -stronger wind, or for more than one of -these changes, except on a few occasions, -when moderate wind, with rain or -snow, comes from the northward.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A fall, with a south wind, precedes -rain.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A sudden and considerable fall, with -the wind due west, presages a violent -storm from the north or northwest, during -which the glass will rise to its former -height.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A steady and considerable fall of the -barometer during an east wind indicates -a shift of wind to the southward, unless -a heavy fall of snow or rain immediately -follows.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A falling barometer, with the wind at -north, brings bad weather; in summer -rain and gales; in spring snows and frosts.</p> - -<p class='c007'>If, after a storm of wind and rain, the -barometer remains steady at the point -to which it had fallen, severe weather -<span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span>may follow without a change in the -wind. But on the rising of the barometer -a change of wind may be looked for.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The following rhymes are familiar to -most sailors:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>When the glass falls low,</div> - <div class='line'>Look out for a blow.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>First rise after low,</div> - <div class='line'>Portends a stronger blow.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>When the glass is high,</div> - <div class='line'>Let all your kites fly.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Long foretold—long last;</div> - <div class='line'>Short notice—soon past.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The following notes may be relied on -for forecasting the weather:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Red sky at sunset, fine weather.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Red sky in the morning, wind or rain, and</div> - <div class='line'>often both.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Gray sky in the morning, fine weather.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Hard, oily looking clouds, strong wind.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Yellowish green clouds, wind and rain.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Bright yellow sky at sunset, wind.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Pale yellow sky at sunset, rain.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Very clear atmosphere near the horizon is a</div> - <div class='line'>sign of more wind and often rain.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Here follow some old sailors' jingles -which I heard when a boy in the forecastle:</p> - -<div class='lg-container-b'> - <div class='linegroup'> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>When rain comes before the wind,</div> - <div class='line'>Sheets and halyards you must mind;</div> - <div class='line'>When wind comes before the rain,</div> - <div class='line'>Hoist your topsails up again.</div> - </div> - <div class='group'> - <div class='line'>Evening red and morning gray</div> - <div class='line'>Are sure signs of a fine day;</div> - <div class='line'>But evening gray and morning red,</div> - <div class='line'>Makes a sailor shake his head.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span>Amateurs while on a cruise should -frequently look at the barometer and -take notes of its height and enter them -in the log.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The action of the aneroid barometer -depends on the effect produced by the -pressure of the atmosphere on a circular -metallic chamber partially exhausted -of air and hermetically sealed. This -kind of barometer is liable to changes -on account of its mechanism getting out -of order, and it should be often compared -with a mercurial barometer, -which from its cumbersomeness cannot -be conveniently carried in a small craft. -Aneroid barometers of excellent quality, -and of about the size of an ordinary -watch, are offered for sale at a reasonable -price, and a cruise should not be -undertaken without one.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A phosphorescent sea is a certain sign -of continuance of fine weather.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When porpoises come into shallow -water and ascend the river stormy -weather is near.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Sea birds fly far out to sea in fine -weather, but if they fly inland bad -weather may be expected.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A halo round the moon, especially if -it appears distant and yet very distinct, -indicates a gale of wind and probably -rain.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When the wind changes it usually -shifts with the sun from left to right. -Thus an East wind shifts to West by -way of Southeast, South and Southwest, -and a West wind shifts to East by way -of Northwest, North and Northeast. If -<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span>the wind shifts the opposite way it is -said to "back," but this it rarely does -except in unsettled weather.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The United States Signal Service has -a local observer stationed at each of the -principal ports. When the "information -signal," which consists of a red -pennant, is displayed, it indicates that -information has been received from the -central office of a storm covering a -limited area, dangerous only for vessels -about to sail to certain points. Ship-masters -and others interested will be -supplied with the necessary information -on application.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A cautionary signal, which is a Yellow -Flag with a white center, indicates that -the winds expected are not so violent -that well found and seaworthy vessels -cannot encounter them without great -danger. A cautionary flag hoisted alone -signifies that the direction of the expected -wind is doubtful.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_217.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='fss'>CAUTIONARY SIGNALS.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>A dangerous storm signal, which is a -Red Square Flag with black center, is -hoisted when the wind is over thirty-five -miles an hour.</p> - -<p class='c007'>At night a Red Light indicates Easterly -<span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span>winds, and a Red and White Light -Westerly winds.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_218a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='fss'>STORM SIGNALS.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Following are the weather signals, -which explain themselves:</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_218b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='fss'>WEATHER.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Beaufort's scale is used to measure -the velocity of the wind. It is given -below:</p> - -<table class='table2' summary=''> -<colgroup> -<col width='26%' /> -<col width='26%' /> -<col width='47%' /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class='c009'><i>Hourly Velocity in Miles.</i></td> - <td class='c015'><i>Scale.</i></td> - <td class='c016'><i>State.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr><td> </td></tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>-</td> - <td class='c015'>0</td> - <td class='c016'>calm.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>1</td> - <td class='c015'>1</td> - <td class='c016'>light airs.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>2 to 3</td> - <td class='c015'>2</td> - <td class='c016'>light breezes.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>4 to 7</td> - <td class='c015'>3</td> - <td class='c016'>gentle breeze.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>9 to 15</td> - <td class='c015'>4</td> - <td class='c016'>moderate breeze.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>15 to 18</td> - <td class='c015'>5</td> - <td class='c016'>fresh breeze.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>19 to 22</td> - <td class='c015'>6</td> - <td class='c016'>strong breeze.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>23 to 28</td> - <td class='c015'>7</td> - <td class='c016'>moderate gale.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>28 to 40</td> - <td class='c015'>8</td> - <td class='c016'>fresh gale.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>40 to 48</td> - <td class='c015'>9</td> - <td class='c016'>strong gale.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>48 to 56</td> - <td class='c015'>10</td> - <td class='c016'>whole gale.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>57 to 80</td> - <td class='c015'>11</td> - <td class='c016'>storm.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='c009'>80 to 100</td> - <td class='c015'>12</td> - <td class='c016'>hurricane.</td> - </tr> -</table> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XIX.<br /> <br />SEA COOKERY FOR YACHTSMEN.</h2> -</div> -<p class='drop-capa0_3_0_5 c005'>Those who go a-sailing for pleasure -in small craft, frequently -suffer hardships, or at least inconvenience, -in the way of meals, -because of their lack of knowledge of -the provisions to take with them, and of -simple methods of preparing wholesome -and appetizing dishes.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_219.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 1. A Yachtsman's Stove.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Sea cooking differs materially from -shore cooking, inasmuch as the stove in -a house is erected on a floor that is both -stationary and stable. The yachtsman -<span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>who has a cosy galley with a fixed stove -that burn coal or coke or charcoal, and -that draws well, has reason to bless -his fortunate stars.</p> - -<p class='c007'>There have now come into vogue -several varieties of the blue-flame -wickless cooking stove. In the accompanying -illustration, Fig. 1, I have depicted -a stove which I have found to -suit. It is wickless and burns the ordinary -kerosene oil. To suit sea conditions -the stove is slung on gimbals -like a ship's compass, so as to yield to -every motion of the vessel. The railing -round the top prevents pots and -pans from sliding to leeward. Fig. 2 -shows the finest fry-pan ever invented -for an oil stove, on which broiling is -impracticable. It acts as a broiler or -fryer at will. The raised bars prevent -the steak or cutlet from being soddened -with fat, the result being equal or nearly -equal to a gridiron. If frying is required -put the necessary quantity of oil, -butter or fat in the pan. Let it come -to a boil, and then immerse in it the -article, fish, flesh, fowl, reptile, or vegetable -that you wish to cook.</p> - -<p class='c007'>With a stove having only one lid or -burner the sea-cook might often have -some difficulty in keeping three utensils -on the boil at once. Luckily ingenuity -has surmounted the obstacle, and -Fig. 3 shows three stew-pans of small -size that will fit over the burner of the -stove shown in Fig. 1. They are in the -market, but it took me a long time to -find out where they are for sale. In one -<span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>you may cook curry, in the second rice, -while clam broth may simmer in the -third. In good sooth a very cerberus of -stew-pans!</p> - -<p class='c007'>Some sort of a contrivance for storing -ice so as to keep it solid as long as possible -is indispensable. Such a device is -shown in Fig. 4.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id022'> -<img src='images/i_221.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 2. The Ideal Fry-Pan.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>For sea picnics buy as many of the -thin wooden plates (costing only a trifle) -as you may require. -These after being -used may be thrown -overboard. Take no -crockery ware or -china to sea in a -small boat. Cups, -saucers, plates and -dishes can be obtained -made of enameled -steel. These are -unbreakable and -cleanly. Stew-pans, -kettles, pitchers, -coffee-pots and fry-pans -are also made -of enameled steel, -and they cannot be -surpassed. Cooks' furnishings depend -on the size of the boat and the hands -she carries. I suggest the following, but -leave the sizes to the discretion of the -purchaser who knows about how many -mouths he has to feed: One kettle for -boiling water for tea or coffee, one deep -fry-pan, one iron pot with tight-fitting -cover for boiling meat, fish or cooking -chowder, one teapot, one coffee-pot, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span>a soup ladle, a long iron two-pronged -fork (known aboard ship as the cook's -tormentors), two stew-pans for cooking -vegetables, one broiler (if the implement -can be used), one cook's knife, one -vegetable knife, one swab for washing -pots, pans and plates, and dish towels -for drying them, soap, cups, plates, dishes, -knives, forks, spoons, glasses, <i>quant. -suff.</i> Do not forget a galvanized iron -bucket for the cook, a can opener and a -corkscrew. Also matches in an airtight -can or glass. Fuel in either fluid or -solid shape should not be omitted.</p> - -<p class='c007'>When we come to the question of the -food supplies to be taken aboard, much -will depend upon the individual. Hard -tack, salt tack, flour, beans, corned beef, -salt pork, bacon, hams, canned meats, -sardines, canned fruits and vegetables, -cornmeal, lard, butter, cheese, condensed -milk, sweetened and unsweetened coffee, -tea, cocoa, chocolate, pepper, salt, mustard, -vinegar, poultry seasoning, sugar -and rice are some of the staple comestibles -that suggest themselves, but these -may be added to or subtracted from -according to circumstances.</p> - -<p class='c007'>A ham is one of the most easily procured -comestibles. Pick out a small -one, not too fat. If you want it tough -as leather, boil it furiously for a couple -of hours, then haul it out of the pot and -eat it. If you want a delicate, tender and -juicy ham soak it in a bucket of fresh -water for twelve hours. Then scrape -it well and pop it into a big pot full of -cold fresh water. Let it come slowly to -<span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span>the boil. As soon as the water reaches -the boiling stage, regulate the heat so -that a gentle simmering, the faintest -possible ebullition is kept up for five or -six hours, according to the size of the -joint. Then take it out of the pot and -skin it. The rind will come off as easily -as an old shoe. Then return meat to the -water in which it was boiled and let it -remain until it is quite cold. Next dish -it, drain it and put it in the ice box to -harden. Cut in very thin slices with a -sharp knife, and you will admit that -cooked after this scientific formula ham -is mighty fine eating.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_223.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 3. A Nest of Stew-pans.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Corned beef cooked after this same -fashion will also be a success. The -secret is a simple one of chemistry. -Hard boiling hardens the fibers and -tears the meat to rags. Gentle simmering -softens the meat while allowing it to -retain its juices.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The navy bean at present in use, -<span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>though much may be said in its praise, -is far inferior to the lima bean. This -legume if substituted for the insignificant -(by comparison only) little bean -on which Boston breakfasts every Sabbath -morn will be found so palatable -that the lesser variety will never again -be used. Procure a quart of lima beans. -Pick out all that are shriveled or discolored. -Soak the rest all night in plenty -of cold fresh water and in the morning -you will find them plump and tender. -Wash them well and place them in a -pot on the fire with a square piece of -salt pork weighing three-quarters of a -pound; simmer them gently till they are -tender, but not till they reach the porridge -stage. On the contrary, let each -bean be separate like the soft and swelling -grains of well-cooked rice. Strain -through a colander, saving a pint of the -water in which they were boiled. Pack -in the bean pot. Bury the chunk of -pork in the beans. Season the pint of -water reserved as mentioned above, to -your liking. Pour over the beans in the -pot and put in the oven to bake. The -flavoring of beans depends upon the -taste of the cook.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Sirloin steaks are a good staple viand. -Make the butcher cut them not less than -two inches thick. If you cannot grill -them heat your fry-pan almost red-hot. -Put no fat in the pan. Place your steak -cut into convenient chunks into the hot -pan. Let one side sear for a minute or -so to keep in the juices. Then turn meat -over. It will be cooked sufficiently for -<span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span>most palates in five or six minutes. -Place on a piping hot platter, spread -some fresh butter on the steak, sprinkle -with pepper, and pipe to grub. Chops -may be cooked in the same way.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Meat may be roasted in an iron pot if -the cook has no oven. Moderate heat, -continuous care to prevent burning, and -frequent basting are the three requisites -of a successful pot roast.</p> - -<p class='c007'>So far as beverages are concerned, -useful hints in -that direction are -given in Fig. 5, -which shows a -picturesque and -shipshape vessel -to carry when -a-cruising.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_225.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 4. Ice Tub.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>There is no -daintier dish than -a fresh, fat lobster, -generous -and juicy, just -hauled from the -pot in which he -was caught. Pick -out a particularly -lively specimen of medium size but -heavy. The cock lobster may be distinguished -from the hen by the narrowness -of the tail, the upper two fins of -which are stiff and hard, while the tail -of the hen is broader and the fins soft. -The male has the higher flavor; the -flesh, too, is firmer and the color when -boiled is a deeper red. The hen is well -adapted for lobster <i>a la</i> Newburg, but -<span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>for eating on the half-shell a male in -prime condition is far preferable.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The secret of cooking lobsters is to -plunge them into a pot of furiously -boiling sea water, and to keep the water -in a condition of fast ebullition for just -twenty minutes. Fresh water to which -salt is added will not do so well. Salt -water fresh from the ocean is indispensable. -It brings out the correct flavor -and imparts an indefinable zest to the -lobster. Hard-shell crabs may be boiled -in the same way, but ten minutes will -be ample time.</p> - -<p class='c007'>All fresh vegetables are, in the opinion -of the writer, improved in flavor by -cooking them in sea water fresh from -the ocean, not from a harbor contaminated -by noxious influences from the -shore. All vegetables should be immersed -in boiling water and cooked till -done. Potatoes will take about half an -hour to boil, but cabbages, carrots and -turnips much longer. I should not advise -the cooking of the last-named three -esculents aboard a small craft. Canned -asparagus, French peas and string beans -take little time to prepare and are excellent -if a reliable brand is purchased. -Open the can, drain off the liquid and -throw it away. Wash the vegetables, -strain the water off, place in a stew-pan -with a lump of butter, and heat thoroughly. -The liquid of canned vegetables -is unfit for human food.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Hard clams or quahaugs are plentiful -at any port during the boating season. -The recuperative qualities of the -<span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span>small variety served ice-cold on the -half shell with a dash of Tabasco sauce -and no other seasoning are beyond -praise. Now while the little clam is -excellent eating just as soon as opened -from the shell, taking care to waste -none of his precious juices, his elder -brother also has inestimable gastronomic -values.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The easiest and simplest method of -preparing -clam broth -is to scrub -the clams -well and -wash them -in several -waters. Put -them in an -iron pot, -without any -water or -liquid. Let -them remain -on the -fire for -twenty minutes. -Then -strain the -juice, into which put a little fresh butter, -a small quantity of milk, and a dash -of red pepper. Drink while hot.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_227.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>Fig. 5. A Traveling Companion.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Never add water to clam broth, and -never let it boil after the milk is -added, as it will curdle nine times out -of ten.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To make clam soup, clean the clams -as for broth. Place them in an iron -<span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>pot on the stove. As soon as they open -take them out of their shells and chop -very fine. A hardwood bowl and a -two-blade chopping knife are the best -apparatus for this job. Strain the clam -liquor, return to the pot, add minced -onions to taste and the chopped clams; -simmer gently for one hour, thicken to -taste with cracker dust, season with -sweet herbs and pepper; let boil fast -for ten minutes, take off the stove and -add some hot milk and a lump of fresh -butter. Serve.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Clam chowder is an old sea dish -whose popularity seems likely never to -wane. It is a simple dish to prepare, -although many cooks make a mystery -of it. Cut half a pound of streaky salt -pork into small cubes. Fry in an iron -pot together with half a dozen medium-sized -sliced onions until they are a light -brown. Chop fifty hard-shell clams -fine. Peel and slice thin a dozen large -raw potatoes. Break up four sea biscuits -and soak till soft in cold water or -milk. Scald and peel and slice six ripe -and juicy tomatoes. Put these ingredients -into the pot in layers, pour over -them the strained juice of the clams. -Season with red and black pepper, -sauces and herbs to taste. Cover an -inch with hot fresh water and simmer -for three hours. A pint of sound California -claret added just before serving -is an improvement. An old hen makes -tip-top chowder cooked in the same -fashion.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fish chowder may be prepared in a -<span class='pageno' id='Page_233'>233</span>similar way. Cod, haddock, sea bass -and bluefish are good made into a -chowder.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The soft-shell clam makes a delicate -stew or broth. The tough parts should -be rejected from the chopping bowl. -Boiled for twenty minutes and eaten -from the shell with a little butter and -pepper they are also very appetizing. -A big potful soon disappears.</p> - -<p class='c007'>There is no excuse for the yachtsman -neglecting to enjoy the delights of fish -fresh from the sea. Fishing tackle -should always be carried. Bluefish and -mackerel may be caught by trolling; and -if you have fisherman's luck, once in a -blue moon a Spanish mackerel may fall -to your lot. If so, that day must be -marked by a white stone, for a Spanish -mackerel transferred in about two -shakes of a lamb's tail from the fish-hook -to the fry-pan, or better still, if your -arrangements permit, to the gridiron or -broiler, is good enough for the gods to -feed on. Two axioms should be borne -in mind, namely, to fry in plenty of -boiling fat or to plunge into boiling -water. Never humiliate a fish by placing -him in a cold fry-pan or into a -cooking pot of cold water.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Before frying fish dip in well-beaten -egg and then sprinkle with bread -crumbs or cracker dust, dip in egg -again, and then add more bread crumbs -or cracker dust. This is for epicures. -For ordinary seafarers if the fish is -rolled in yellow cornmeal without the -egg the result will be nearly the same. -<span class='pageno' id='Page_234'>234</span>Cut up large fish into suitable sizes, but -fry small fish whole.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Soft-shell crabs should be cooked in -boiling fat. When brown they are done. -Ten minutes is usually enough to cook -them thoroughly.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Always when you boil fish of any -kind indigenous to salt water or fresh -put them in boiling water either from -the sea or fresh water well salted. A -little vinegar added is good. A two-pound -fish should cook sufficiently in -fifteen or at most twenty minutes. Fish -with white flesh take longer to boil -than those with dark.</p> - -<p class='c007'>An excellent sauce for boiled fish -may be made thus: Put a piece of -butter as big as an egg in a saucepan or -a tomato can; heat till it bubbles, add -a heaping tablespoonful of flour, stir till -quite smooth; pour slowly into this, -stirring continually, a pint of the water -the fish was cooked in, and add two -hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. This -may be flavored with anchovy sauce or -a few drops of Harvey or Worcestershire. -Some prefer the addition of a -little lemon juice or even vinegar. -Every man to his taste!</p> - -<p class='c007'>When a very little boy I sailed in the -<i>Derwent</i>, a small schooner engaged in -carrying bottles from Sunderland to -London. The bottles were taken in -from the factory where they were -made, stowed in the hold of the -schooner and transported to a wharf at -Wapping. Bottles are a clean kind of -freight, and our skipper being a very -<span class='pageno' id='Page_235'>235</span>particular kind of a man the <i>Derwent</i> -was kept as bright as a new pin outside -and inside, alow and aloft. On this -dashing little vessel I was cook and -cabin boy. There was no regular galley -on deck, simply an iron cooking -stove erected on the foreside of the -mainmast; and on that in storm and -calm I boiled and baked for a crew of -four for more than a year—in fact till I -quit the coasting trade and signed away -foreign. My skipper took me under -his special guidance. The grub had to -be well cooked and the deck kept spotless -or I used to suffer. Skipper and -mate were epicures after a fashion, so I -had to keep my weather eye open.</p> - -<p class='c007'>My experience in merchant vessels -and pleasure craft has fitted me to -write with some small assumption of -authority on the subject of sea cooking.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Some of my methods may seem queer -and perhaps grotesque, but condemn -them not till you have tested them in -the crucible of experiment.</p> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_236'>236</span> - <h2 class='c004'>XX.<br /> <br />NAUTICAL TERMS IN COMMON USE.</h2> -</div> -<p class='c012'>Aback—A sail's condition when the sheet is to windward and it drives the -vessel astern.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Abaft—The position toward the stern -of any object or point such as "abaft -the mast" or "abaft the binnacle."</p> - -<p class='c007'>Afore—The contrary of abaft.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Ahoy!—An interjection used in hailing -a vessel, such as "<i>Vigilant</i> ahoy!"</p> - -<p class='c007'>Athwart—Across the keel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Atrip—When the anchor is broken -out of the ground.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Avast—Stop, discontinue. As "avast -hauling" (stop hauling).</p> - -<p class='c007'>Balance reef—A diagonal reef in a -fore-and-aft sail extending from throat -to clew.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Batten down—Covering hatches with -tarpaulins and securing them with -battens.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Beam ends—A vessel is said to be on -her beam ends when knocked down by -a squall to an angle of about 45 degrees.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Belay—To make fast a rope or fall of -a tackle.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Below—Greenhorns call it "downstairs" -and seamen laugh at them.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Bight—A loop of a rope.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Bilge—The round in a vessel's timbers -where they turn from her sides -toward the keel.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_237'>237</span>Binnacle—A case in which the compass -is contained.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Block and block—When the blocks -of a tackle are hauled close together.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Bolt rope—The rope sewn round the -edges of sails. It is made of the best -hemp.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Bonnet—An extra piece of canvas -laced to the foot of a jib or foresail, -taken off when it blows hard.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Box the compass—To call over the -points of the compass in correct order.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Break off—When a vessel sailing -close-hauled is headed by the wind and -is unable to lay the course she was -steering.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Bring up—To anchor.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Broach to—To come to against wind -and helm.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Capsize—To turn over.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Carvel built—Constructed with the -planks flush edge to edge and the seams -caulked and payed.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Caulking—Driving oakum into the -seams of a vessel with a mallet and a -blunt chisel called a caulking iron.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Clews—The lower corners of square -sails; the lower after-corners of fore-and-aft -sails.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Clinch—To fasten a rope by a half -hitch and then seize the end back to the -standing part.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Close-hauled—Hauled as close to the -wind as the sails will permit without -shaking their luffs. A cutter-rigged -yacht with well-cut canvas should lie -within four and a quarter points of the -wind. Some modern racing craft have -<span class='pageno' id='Page_238'>238</span>done half a point better than this. -Square-rigged vessels cannot head -better than five and a-half points of the -wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Collar—An eye spliced in a shroud or -stay to go over the masthead.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Comber—A big wave.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Companion—The entrance from the -deck to the cabin below.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Compass bowl—The bowl in the binnacle -that contains the compass.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Corinthian—A term in yachting possessing -the same significance as amateur; -the opposite of professional.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Counter—That part of a vessel which -projects abaft the sternpost.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Covering board—The outside deck -plank fitted over the timber heads. The -same as planksheer.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Cracking on—Carrying a press of sail.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Crank—Not stiff under canvas; easily -heeled or listed.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Cranze or Cranse—A metal band with -eyes on it fitted to the end of a bowsprit -or other spar.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Cringle—A metal thimble worked in -the clews and leeches of sails.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Dandy—A cutter-rigged vessel with -lug-mizzen set on a jigger-mast.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Davits—Iron cranes on vessels to -which boats are hoisted.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Deadeye—A circular wooden block -with three holes in it without sheaves, -through which a lanyard is rove to set -up standing rigging.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Dead wood—Solid wood worked on -top of the keel forward and aft.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Depth of hold—The height between -<span class='pageno' id='Page_239'>239</span>the keelson and the deck of a single-decked -vessel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Displacement—The quantity of water -displaced by a vessel, which in weight -is always equal to her own weight.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Dogvane—A light vane made of bunting -or feathers to show the direction of -the wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Dowse—To lower a sail suddenly.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Down-haul—A rope by which a sail is -hauled down.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Draught of water—The depth of a -vessel measured from the under side of -the keel to the load water-line.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Earrings—Ropes for fastening the -corners of the heads of sails to yards and -for reefing.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Ease off—To slacken a rope handsomely.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Eyelet holes—Small holes worked in -sails for lacings or lashings to be rove -through.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Eyes of the rigging—Collars spliced -in the ends of shrouds to go over the -masthead and also over the deadeyes.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fair leaders—Holes in planks, etc., for -ropes to be rove through so that they -lead fairly.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fair wind—A wind that permits a vessel -to steer her course without tacking.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fall—The hauling part of the rope of -a tackle.</p> - -<p class='c007'>False keel—A timber bolted to the -under side of the keel proper.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fathom—A sea measure of six feet.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fender—A species of buffer made of -wood, rope or other material to hang -over a vessel's side to prevent her from -<span class='pageno' id='Page_240'>240</span>chafing against a dock, or another -vessel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fid—An iron or wooden bar to keep -bowsprits and topmasts in place; a -conical wooden instrument used by riggers -and sailmakers.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Fish, To—To strengthen a weak or -repair a broken spar by lashing another -spar or batten to it.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Flare—To project outwards; contrary -to tumbling home.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Flat aft—When sheets are trimmed as -close as possible for effective windward -work.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Floors—The bottom timbers of a vessel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Flowing sheet—The sheet eased off to -a fair wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Flush decked—Having neither poop -nor forecastle.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Foot—The lower edge of a sail.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Forereach—To sail faster through the -water on a wind than another vessel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Freeboard—That part of a ship's side -above the water.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Full and by—To steer as close to the -wind as possible, while at the same time -keeping the sails full of wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Futtocks—The timbers which join -and butt above the floors, called first, -second and third futtocks.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Gammon iron—An iron hoop fitted -to the side of the stem, or on top of -the stem, to receive and hold the bowsprit.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Garboard—The strake of plank next -above the keel, into which it is rabbeted -and bolted.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_241'>241</span>Gripe, To—A vessel gripes when she -has a tendency to come up in the -wind and requires much weather helm.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Gudgeons—Metal straps with eyes -secured to the stern post, into which -the pintles of the rudder are fitted.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Gunwale—The timber fitted over the -timber heads and fastened to the top -strake.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Guys—Ropes used to steady a spar or -other thing.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Gybe—To let a fore-and-aft sail shift -from one side to the other when running -before the wind. To let a vessel -go so much off the wind as to bring the -wind on the opposite quarter.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Half-mast high—When a flag is hoisted -halfway up as a mark of respect to a -person recently dead.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Halyards—Ropes for hoisting sails.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Handsomely—Steadily; carefully.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Handy billy—A watch tackle kept on -deck for getting a pull on sheets or halyards.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Hanks—Rings or hooks for fastening -the luffs of sails to stays.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Hard down—The order to put the -tiller a-lee. Hard up, the order to put -the tiller a-weather.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Heave to—To so trim a vessel's sails -that she does not move ahead.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Heel rope—The rope by which a running -bowsprit is hauled out or a topmast -lowered.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Hoist—The length of the luff of a fore-and-aft -sail.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Horns—The projections forming the -jaws of gaffs or booms.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_242'>242</span>Hounds—The projections on a mast -that support the lower cap and rigging.</p> - -<p class='c007'>House—To lower a topmast down -within the cap.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Inhaul—The rope used to haul sails -inboard.</p> - -<p class='c007'>In irons—The condition of a vessel -head to wind and with way lost, unable -to pay off on one tack or the other.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Irish pennants—Loose ropes flying in -the breeze or dangling over the side.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Jackstay—A rod of iron, a wooden -cleating, or a wire rope for sails or yards -to travel on; also a wire rope on the -main boom to which the foot of the -sail is laced.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Jiggermast—The mizzenmast of a -yawl or dandy.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Kentledge—Pig iron used as ballast.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Lanyards—Ropes rove through deadeyes -by which shrouds or stays are set up.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Leeboard—An old-fashioned contrivance -to check leeway, still in use on -some Dutch vessels and English barges.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Load water-line—The line of flotation -when a vessel is properly ballasted -or laden.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Luff—To come closer to the wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Make fast—To belay a rope.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Masthead—That part of the mast -above the hounds.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Mast hoops—The hoops to which the -luffs of fore and aft sails are seized to -secure the sails to the masts.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Miss stays, To—To fail in an attempt -to tack.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Mousing—A yarn wound round a hook -to prevent it from becoming unhooked.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_243'>243</span>Near—Very close to the wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Nip—To nip a vessel is to sail her too -close to the wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>On a wind—Closehauled.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Outhaul—A rope or tackle by which -a sail is hauled out on a spar.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Paddy's hurricane—A dead calm.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Painter—A rope spliced to a ring bolt -in the bow of a boat to make fast by.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Pay—To pour hot pitch or marine -glue into seams after they are caulked.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Pintles—The metal hooks by which -rudders are attached to the gudgeons.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Pole mast—A mast without a topmast, -but with a long masthead above -the hounds.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Put about—To tack.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Raffee—A square or triangular sail set -flying on the foretopmasts of schooners.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Rake—To incline forward or aft from -the vertical, as raking mast, a raking -sternpost, etc.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Reef band—A strip of canvas sewn -across a sail, in which eyelet holes for -the reef points are worked.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Reef pendant—A strong rope with a -Matthew Walker knot in one end. It is -passed up through a hole in the cleat -on the boom, and then through the reef -cringle in the sail and down through the -hole in the cleat on the other side of the -boom.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Reef points—Short lengths of rope in -sails to tie up the part rolled up when -reefing.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Reeve—To pass a rope through a -block or a hole of any kind.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_244'>244</span>Roach—The curved part of the foot -of a sail.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Rockered keel—A keel whose ends -curve upward.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Running bowsprit—A bowsprit so -fitted as to run in or out and reef.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Serve—To cover a rope with spunyarn.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Shake out a reef—To untie the reef -points and set the sail.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Sheathing—The copper or other metal -nailed on the bottom of a vessel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Sheave—The grooved wheel in a block -or in the sheave hole of a spar over -which the rope passes.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Sheet—The rope by which the clew -of a sail is secured.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Snotter—An eye strop used to support -the heel of a sprit.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Spitfire jib—The smallest storm jib.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Taunt—Tall, high.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Taut—Tight.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Tie up—A lubber's synonym for moor. -You tie up a dog. You moor a vessel.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Thimble—A heart shaped or circular -ring with a groove outside for ropes to -fit in. They are used for the eye splices -in ropes, the straps of blocks and for the -cringles in sails.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Thwarts—The transverse seats in -boats.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Tumble home—When the sides of a -vessel near the deck incline inward the -opposite to flaring.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Tyers—Ropes that secure a mainsail -when stowed.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Unbend—To cast loose a sail from -stay, gaff, boom or yard.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_245'>245</span>Veer—To pay out chain.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Wear—To bring the wind on the other -side of a vessel by turning her head from -the wind. The reverse of tacking.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Weather gauge—The condition of a -vessel that is to windward of another.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Weather helm—A vessel is said to -carry weather helm when she has a tendency -to fly up in the wind.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Weathering—If one vessel eats to -windward of another, she is said to -weather on her. Weathering an object -is passing it on the windward side.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Whip, To—To bind the end of a rope -with twine to prevent it from unlaying.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Yaw—A vessel yaws when her head -flies from one direction to the other; as, -for instance, when her helmsman is unable -to keep her steady on her course.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Yawl—A cutter-rigged vessel with a -mizzenmast stepped in her counter.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_241.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_246'>246</span> -<img src='images/i_242.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>THE SLOOP YACHT.</span><br /><br /><i>Names of Spars, Rigging, Sails, Etc.</i><br /><br /> 1 Jib Topsail.<br /> 2 Club Topsail Sprit.<br /> 3 Topsail Club.<br /> 4 Club Topsail Guy.<br /> 5 Jib.<br /> 6 Club Topsail.<br /> 7 Mainsail.<br /> 8 Bowsprit.<br /> 9 Club Topsail Tack Line.<br />10 Mainsheet.<br />11 Foresail or Forestaysail Sheet.<br />12 Jib Topsail Sheet.<br />13 Topping Lift.<br />14 Gaff Topsail, Clewed Down.<br />15 Tack of Jib.<br />16 Tack of Jib Topsail.<br />17 Luff of Jib Topsail.<br />18 Head of Jib Topsail.<br />19 Jib Topsail Halyards.<br />20 Leach of Jib Topsail.<br />21 Main Gaff.<br />22 Main Boom.<br />23 Main Topmast.<br />24 Foot of Jib.<br />25 Leach of Jib.<br />26 Clew of Jib.<br />27 Reef Points.<br />28 Tack of Mainsail.<br />29 Clew of Mainsail.<br />30 Peak of Mainsail.<br />31 Throat of Mainsail.<br />32 Main Crosstrees.<br />33 Masthead Runner and Tackle.<br />34 Head of Club Topsail.<br />35 Clew of Club Topsail.<br />36 Tack of Club Topsail.<br />37 Topmast Shrouds.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_247'>247</span> -<img src='images/i_243.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>THE CUTTER YACHT.</span><br /><br /><i>Names of Spars, Sails, Standing and Running Rigging, Etc.</i><br /><br />SPARS.<br /><br />1 Lowermast.<br />2 Topmast.<br />3 Bowsprit.<br />4 Main Boom.<br />5 Gaff.<br />6 Topsail Sprit.<br />7 Spinnaker Boom.<br />8 Tiller.<br /><br />RIGGING AND ROPES.<br /><br /> 9 Crosstrees.<br />10 Shrouds.<br />11 Topmast Shrouds.<br />12 Topping Lift.<br />13 Masthead Runner and Tackle.<br />14 Forestay.<br />15 Topmast Stay.<br />16 Bobstay.<br />17 Bobstay Fall.<br />18 Spinnaker Boom Topping Lift.<br />19 Spinnaker Boom Brace.<br />20 Topmast Backstay.<br />21 Reef Pennant.<br />22 Truck.<br />23 Ensign.<br />24 Channels.<br />25 Mainsheet.<br />26 Spinnaker Boom Guy.<br />27 Clew of Sprit Topsail.<br />28 Tack of Sprit Topsail.<br />29 Tack Line or Pendant.<br />30 Sprit Topsail Halyards.<br /><br />SAILS.<br /><br />A Jib.<br />B Sprit Topsail.<br />C Mainsail.<br />D Foresail.<br />E Jib Topsail.</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class='chapter'> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_248'>248</span> - <h2 class='c004'>ADDENDA.</h2> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>RECENT CHANGES IN SAIL PLAN AND RIG OF</div> - <div>MODERN CRAFT.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='drop-capa0_4_0_6 c005'>Since the first edition of this book -was printed, yacht designers have -studied to reduce weight aloft.</p> - -<p class='c007'>This has not infrequently resulted -in fitting ironwork blocks, etc., far too -flimsy to endure the strain of a stiff -breeze. There is always a happy medium -between spider-web rigging and rigging -uselessly heavy and clumsy, and my advice -therefore is not to go to extremes. -In racing craft on the fresh-water lakes -piano wire has been used for standing -rigging, and because of its enormous -strength and notable lightness has answered -well enough. In salt water, however, -it should be avoided because of its -liability to corrosion.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The principal changes in rig of late -years follow: The substitution of turnbuckles -and rigging screws for the old-fashioned -dead eyes and lanyards; the -reduction of the length of the bowsprit -because of the long overhang forward, -which has done away with the reefing -bowsprit on all modern craft; the invention -of masthead shrouds, bridles on -gaffs, and the throat halyard pennant. -By means of the three devices mentioned, -strains aloft are both minimized -and equalized. Large vessels carry -double masthead shrouds, and every -racing yacht is fitted with single ones. -Gaff bridles and throat halyard pennants -are also considered to be well-nigh -indispensable.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_249'>249</span> -<img src='images/i_245.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>SAIL PLAN AND RIG OF A MODERN SCHOONER.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<span class='pageno' id='Page_250'>250</span> -<img src='images/i_246.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p><span class='small'>RIG AND SAIL PLAN OF A MODERN YAWL.</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_251'>251</span>In the matter of running rigging, -flexible steel wire is now much used for -throat and peak halyards. Its advantage -is that there is little or no "give" to it. -The rig of a modern 25-foot water-line -sloop with a pole mast is as follows: -Bobstay-rod of steel 3/4-inch in diameter, -set up with a turnbuckle at the end of the -bowsprit; shrouds, two each side, 1-1/8-inch -steel wire; forestay set up to stem -head, 1-1/4-inch steel wire; jib set flying, -hoisted with 3/4-inch 8-stranded flexible -steel-wire halyards, set up with a jig-purchase; -runner-shrouds of 7/8-inch -wire canvased over; main lifts 3/4-inch -flexible steel wire, parcelled, sewed over -with white codline and then covered -with white canvas sewn on. The throat -and peak halyards are of 3/4-inch flexible -steel wire. The blocks are all strapped -with grommets of flexible steel wire -sewed and leathered.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Steel wire is now also used for the -leech ropes of racing sails, and is employed -largely in the lower canvas of all -the big racing yachts. Flexible steel -wire is nearly as pliable as new hemp -rope of the same strength. The greater -the diameter of the sheaves over which -it passes the longer it will last. This wire -cannot be belayed to a cleat. Therefore, -Manila rope is spliced to the hauling end -of the wire, which insures its remaining -fast after once being belayed. This is a -most difficult splice to make.</p> - -<p class='c007'>The accompanying illustrations show -the sail plans and rigs of a modern -schooner and a modern yawl. When -compared with the sloop and cutter -rigs on pages 211 and 212, it will be -easily seen that many radical changes -have been made.</p> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_252'>252</span>It occurred to me in revising the book -for this edition, that it might be wise to -omit the directions for rigging a running -bowsprit, bending a loose-footed -mainsail, and some other devices which -in the light of modern improvements -might be deemed either archaic or obsolete. -On second thoughts, however, -I decided to let them stand as written. -There is still a goodly fleet of "old-timers," -cutters and yawls with straight -stems and reefing bowsprits—craft some -of them half a century old or more, and -sound as a gold dollar in spite of severe -service. The deadeye and the lanyard, -although being pushed hard by the -turnbuckle, die slowly, and are yet to -be found in brand new vessels of the -twentieth century.</p> - -<p class='c007'>To equalize and minimize strains on -mainbooms, mainsheet bridles are now -fitted. Overhangs are growing longer -and longer and bowsprits shorter. The -Larchmont one-design class of 1901 has -a length on deck of 40 feet 7 inches, -with a water-line length of 25 feet. -The sail area is 1,103 feet, and the out -side ballast weighs 6,100 pounds. The -centerboard houses entirely below the -cabin floor, the draught being 4 feet 6 -inches, and 8 feet with the board down. -The aim of the designer is to combine -racing and cruising qualities—a much-to-be-desired -combination, never to be -completely attained, I fear.</p> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c003'> - <div>THE END.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id003'> -<img src='images/i_249.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c012'>POMMERY</p> - -<p class='c007'>"SEC" (A Very Dry Wine.) "BRUT" (No Sweetening Whatever.)</p> - -<p class='c007'>The</p> - -<p class='c007'>Standard for</p> - -<p class='c007'>Champagne</p> - -<p class='c007'>Quality.</p> - -<p class='c007'>CHAMPAGNE</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_253'>253</span>WHITE'S</p> - -<p class='c007'>YACHT AGENCY</p> - -<p class='c007'>EUGENE WHITE, <i>Proprietor</i></p> - -<p class='c007'>OFFICE <i>for</i> SELLING, CHARTERING <i>and</i> -PURCHASING YACHTS <i>and</i> BOATS OF -EVERY DESCRIPTION DESIGNS <i>and</i> -ESTIMATES FURNISHED <i>Terms Moderate</i></p> - -<p class='c007'>11 EAST BROADWAY</p> - -<p class='c007'>(<i>Chatham Square</i>) NEW YORK</p> -<hr class='c017' /> - -<div class='figcenter id023'> -<img src='images/i_250a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c014'>Air Whistles</p> - -<p class='c007'>FOR YACHTS and LAUNCHES</p> - -<div class='figcenter id024'> -<img src='images/i_250b.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>A powerful Air Whistle, shrill -and far-reaching. Indispensable -in fog or stormy night. Either -fixed or portable. Specially adapted for small -yachts. Prices from $9 00 upward.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id025'> -<img src='images/i_250c.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>GLEASON-PETERS AIR PUMP CO.,</p> - -<p class='c007'>Houston and Mercer Sts., NEW YORK CITY.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c001' /> -</div> -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_254'>254</span> - <h3 class='c013'>Established 1840.</h3> -</div> - -<p class='c014'>GEO. B. CARPENTER & CO.</p> - -<div class='figcenter id001'> -<img src='images/i_251.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>Yacht Sailmakers and dealers in every yachting requisite. We have all -the new fabrics for <b>racing sails</b>.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Send 6c in stamps for our up-to-date catalogue of yacht fittings and supplies, -or 4c in stamps for catalogue of tents, etc.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Tents, Camp Furniture and Flags.</p> - -<p class='c007'>202-208 South Water Street, CHICAGO.</p> -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c001' /> -</div> -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_255'>255</span> - <h3 class='c013'>SPAR COATING</h3> -</div> - -<div class='figcenter id026'> -<img src='images/i_252.jpg' alt='' class='ig001' /> -<div class='ic002'> -<p>PRESERVATIVE COATINGS<br />E.S.<br />1827<br />& CO.<br />TRADE MARK.</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class='c014'>A PERFECT FINISH</p> - -<p class='c007'>FOR ALL WOODWORK, SPARS AND IRONWORK</p> - -<p class='c007'>EXPOSED TO EXCESSIVE CHANGES IN WEATHER AND TEMPERATURE.</p> - -<p class='c007'>EDWARD SMITH & CO.</p> - -<p class='c007'>VARNISH MAKERS AND COLOR GRINDERS</p> - -<p class='c007'>45 BROADWAY, NEW YORK</p> -<div> - <span class='pageno' id='Page_256'>256</span> - <h3 class='c000'>Boat Sailing<br /> <br />Fair Weather and Foul.</h3> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c001'> - <div>Capt. A. J. Kenealy.</div> - <div class='c001'>Price 50 Cents.</div> - <div class='c001'>The Outing Publishing Co.,</div> - <div class='c003'>239-241 Fifth Ave.,</div> - <div class='c001'>New York.</div> - <div class='c001'>INTERNATIONAL NEWS CO.</div> - <div class='c001'>London.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class='pbb'> - <hr class='pb c001' /> -</div> - -<div class='nf-center-c0'> -<div class='nf-center c002'> - <div>Transcriber's Notes.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class='c007'>The original spelling and punctuation has been retained.</p> - -<p class='c007'>Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been -preserved.</p> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Boat Sailing, by A. J. 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