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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Trossachs, by Geraldine Edith Mitton

-

-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or

-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license

-

-

-Title: The Trossachs

-

-Author: Geraldine Edith Mitton

-

-Release Date: April 19, 2018 [EBook #57004]

-

-Language: English

-

-Character set encoding: UTF-8

-

-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TROSSACHS ***

-

-

-

-

-Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed

-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-[Illustration:

-

-IN THIS SERIES

-

-  ABBOTSFORD

-  CAMBRIDGE

-  CANTERBURY

-  CHANNEL ISLANDS

-  ENGLISH LAKES

-  FIRTH OF CLYDE

-  ISLE OF ARRAN

-  ISLE OF MAN

-  ISLE OF WIGHT

-  KILLARNEY

-  LONDON

-  OXFORD

-  PEAK COUNTRY

-  STRATFORD-ON-AVON

-      Leamington and Warwick

-  THAMES

-  TROSSACHS

-  NORTH WALES

-  WESSEX

-  WESTMINSTER ABBEY

-  WINDSOR AND ETON]

-

-    PUBLISHED BY

-ADAM & CHARLES BLACK

-  SOHO SQ., LONDON

-

-

-

-

-[Illustration:

-

-     Beautiful Britain

-

-       The Trossachs

-

-            By

-

-       G. E. Mitton

-

-

-London Adam & Charles Black

-

-       Soho Square W

-           1911]

-

-

-

-

-CONTENTS

-

-

-CHAPTER                                                             PAGE

-

-  I. “THE LADY OF THE LAKE”                                            5

-

- II. THE ROYAL CITY OF STIRLING                                       16

-

-III. BY THE ROUTE OF THE FIERY CROSS TO BALQUHIDDER 23

-

- IV. APPROACHES TO THE TROSSACHS                                      29

-

-  V. THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS                                       41

-

- VI. LOMOND AND THE MACGREGORS                                        52

-

-     INDEX                                                            63

-

-

-

-

-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

-

-

- 1. BIRCHES BY LOCH ACHRAY                                 _Frontispiece_

-

-                                                             FACING PAGE

-

- 2. BENEATH THE CRAGS OF BEN VENUE                                     9

-

- 3. STIRLING CASTLE FROM THE KING’S KNOT                              16

-

- 4. LOCH VENNACHAR                                                    25

-

- 5. LOCH LUBNAIG                                                      27

-

- 6. BRIG O’ TURK AND BEN VENUE                                        30

-

- 7. IN THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS                                     32

-

- 8. THE SILVER STRAND                                                 43

-

- 9. LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN’S ISLE                                     46

-

-10. BEN A’AN, SEEN FROM LOCH KATRINE                                  49

-

-11. HEAD OF LOCH LOMOND                                               56

-

-12. SILVER BIRCHES IN THE TROSSACHS                        _On the cover_

-

-

-

-

-CHAPTER I

-

-“THE LADY OF THE LAKE”

-

-

-The charm that lies in a mysterious name has been amply exemplified

-in that of the Trossachs, which is said to mean “bristled territory.”

-Something in the shaggy uncouthness of the word fits so well with

-the land of romance and mountain scenery that it has drawn tens of

-thousands to make the round between Glasgow and Edinburgh, by rail

-and coach and steamer, who, if the name had not been so mysteriously

-attractive, might never have bestirred themselves at all. Since the

-publication of _Rob Roy_ and _The Lady of the Lake_ the principal

-actors in these dramas have been just as real and important to the

-imaginative tourist as the familiar names of history. It is nothing

-to them that Rob Roy, of the clan of Macgregor, was merely a Highland

-thief: his character, invested by Scott with the charm of a magician’s

-pen, has made him as heroic as the great Wallace himself; while Ellen,

-the Lady of the Lake, wholly born of the poet’s imagination, has become

-only second to Mary Queen of Scots.

-

-Scott has certainly done much for the land of his birth: not only

-has he enriched its literature for all time, and raised its literary

-standing in the eyes of nations, but he has done more for it

-commercially than almost any other writer has ever done for any country

-in bringing to it streams of visitors, especially from across the

-Atlantic. The gold flowing from the coffers of the Sassenach into the

-pouches of the Gael is a perennial blessing which could hardly have

-been secured in any other way.

-

-[Sidenote: “The Lady of the Lake”]

-

-We are told that on the appearance of _The Lady of the Lake_, “the

-whole country rang with the praises of the poet; crowds set off to view

-the scenery of Loch Katrine, till then comparatively unknown; and as

-the book came out just before the season for excursions, every house

-and inn in that neighbourhood was crammed with a constant succession of

-visitors. From the date of the publication of _The Lady of the Lake_,

-the post-horse duty in Scotland rose in an extraordinary degree, and

-it continued to do so for a number of years, the author’s succeeding

-works keeping up the enthusiasm for our scenery which he had originally

-created.”

-

-There are fairer spots in Scotland than the Trossachs, beautiful as

-they are; yet, notwithstanding this, their popularity remains unabated.

-The trip certainly has the advantage of being accessible; it can be

-“done” in a day from either Edinburgh or Glasgow, and this is a great

-recommendation to those who are going on to “do” Europe in record time.

-Then, again, anyone who has seen Edinburgh and the Trossachs is fairly

-safe in saying he has seen Scotland, whereas one of wider range, who

-had, say, gone up the Highland Railway to Inverness and returned via

-the Caledonian Canal, if unmindful of the Trossachs, would be taunted

-with his omission every time the subject was mentioned.

-

-However, the greatly increased facilities of steamer and rail do

-doubtless tend to send people farther afield, and the much longer round

-via the Caledonian Canal can count its hundreds where it previously

-counted units.

-

-Until Scott’s time the Trossachs were little known, but then the cult

-of scenery-worship as we know it had not been evolved. That they were

-somewhat known is shown in Dorothy Wordsworth’s _Journal_.

-

-When William Wordsworth, with his sister and the poet Coleridge, made a

-tour in 1803, they were met at Loch Katrine (coming from Loch Lomond)

-with stares of amusement from the peasants. “There were no boats,”

-says Dorothy in her _Journal_, “and no lodging nearer than Callander,

-ten miles beyond the foot of the lake. A laugh was on every face when

-William said we were come to see the Trossachs; no doubt they thought

-we had better have stayed at our own homes. William endeavoured to make

-it appear not so very foolish by informing them that it was a place

-much celebrated in England, though perhaps little thought of by them.”

-This was six years before the publication of the great poem.

-

-The Trossachs proper are the irregularly-shaped hills and rocks,

-covered with a thick growth of bristling firs, that lie between Loch

-Katrine and Loch Vennachar, and along the shores of little Loch Achray.

-But the name is generally taken to mean the whole round, including

-the traversing of Loch Lomond, as well as Loch Katrine, and the road

-journey.

-

-[Illustration: “BENEATH THE CRAGS OF BEN VENUE.”

-

-The precipitous ascents from the south-east corner of Loch Katrine.]

-

-Much the most usual route is from either Glasgow or Edinburgh, via

-Callander; but a secondary one, which has great attraction for some

-people, is that by Aberfoyle, which cuts into the heart of the

-Trossachs from the south. This has the disadvantage of missing Loch

-Vennachar; but, truth to tell, the coach drive along by Loch Vennachar

-is not beautiful, and were it not illumined by romantic imagination,

-and regarded as a prelude or epilogue to something better, it could

-easily be dispensed with.

-

-The outline of the story of _The Lady of the Lake_ is supposed to be

-known to everyone, but there are few who could give it off-hand. The

-principal character, and the only one not fictitious, is that of James

-V. of Scotland, and his habit of wandering incognito among his people

-is used to further the plot. The poem opens with a stag-hunt, when the

-fine animal, after leading his pursuers a tremendous dance, plunges

-into the Trossachs and disappears from view. Only one horseman has been

-able to follow up the chase, and his steed at this juncture drops down

-dead, leaving his master to scramble onward to Loch Katrine as best he

-can. This he does, and as he stands on the shore he sees a boat rowed

-by a young girl rapidly approaching, coming out from a little island.

-She tells him he is expected—in fact, his visit has been foretold by a

-soothsayer, Allan Bane—and asks him to come to the island and receive

-the hospitality of her father’s house. She is Ellen, daughter to one of

-the outlawed Douglases, who have been in arms against their King.

-

-The girl’s mother receives the stranger courteously on his arrival,

-and he announces himself as James Fitz-James. He remains with them

-that night, and leaves next morning before the return of Douglas with

-Ellen’s young lover, Malcolm Graeme, and a powerful rebel, Roderick

-Dhu, the head of Clan MacAlpine, the Macgregors.

-

-    An outlawed desperate man,

-    The chief of a rebellious clan.

-

-This man tries to gain Ellen’s hand as the price of his support of her

-father, but his suit is unsuccessful.

-

-[Sidenote: The Fiery Cross]

-

-The next day, determined on a wild rising against the King, who is

-known to be at Stirling with his Court, Roderick sends the fiery cross

-round to summon his followers to Lanrick Mead. The cross is made by the

-priest—

-

-    A cubit’s length in measure due,

-    The shaft and limbs were rods of yew.

-

-This was dipped in the blood of a slaughtered goat and scathed with

-flame. Then the priest shook it on high, shouting:

-

-    “Woe to the wretch who fails to rear

-    At this dread sign the ready spear!

-    For, as the flames this symbol sear,

-    His home, the refuge of his fear,

-    A kindred fate shall know.

-

-       *       *       *       *       *

-

-    Sunk be his home in embers red!

-    And cursed be the meanest shed

-    That e’er shall hide the houseless head.

-

-       *       *       *       *       *

-

-    Burst be the ear that fails to heed!

-    Palsied the foot that shuns to speed!

-    May ravens tear the careless eyes,

-    Wolves make the coward heart their prize.”

-

-Roderick’s servant, Malise, seizing the cross, starts off through the

-Trossachs, and along Loch Achray to Duncraggan, where he hands the

-symbol on to “Angus, heir of Duncan’s line,” who carries it along

-Vennachar and up to the pass of Leny, passing it on to a bridegroom on

-Loch Lubnaig, and so it follows round all the haunts of the clan.

-

-Ellen and her father meantime retreat to a cave on Ben Venue. Here

-she accidentally meets again the fascinating stranger, who tries to

-persuade her to elope with him; but she tells him of her love for young

-Malcolm, and he honourably refrains from pressing his suit; instead

-he gives her a ring which, he says, was given him by the King, with a

-promise that on its production the King would fulfil any request of

-the wearer. Meantime he is being watched by Roderick Dhu as a spy, and

-Roderick sends a so-called guide to conduct him out of the labyrinth;

-but the guide is one of the clan Murdoch, who has secret orders to kill

-the stranger so soon as he gets him alone. The seer has proclaimed that

-whichever side first kills one of the other will win in the trial of

-strength now about to begin, and when Roderick hears this he rejoices

-to think that by treachery the lot will fall to him.

-

-Fitz-James, however, is warned by a half-witted woman wandering in the

-wood, and when he discloses his suspicions he is shot at by Murdoch,

-who, however, misses him and kills the woman instead. Fitz-James,

-furious at this barbarity, promptly kills him, and, cutting off a tress

-of the dying woman’s hair, swears to kill the chief, Roderick Dhu, the

-author of this foul deed, whenever he shall meet him. He wanders on in

-the wilderness of trees and rocks, and, as night is coming on, he loses

-himself.

-

-    Famished and chilled, through ways unknown,

-    Tangled and steep, he journeyed on;

-    Till, as a rock’s huge point he turned,

-    A watch-fire close before him burned.

-

-[Sidenote: The Fight]

-

-Beside it is a huge Highlander, who is at first churlish and inclined

-to resent the intrusion; but the inbred virtue of hospitality conquers,

-and he allows the stranger to share his camp, promising to see him

-safe as far as Coilantogle Ford next morning. However, in the morning

-the two quarrel, and the great Highlander is revealed as Roderick

-Dhu himself. Roderick is furious at hearing of the death of Murdoch,

-but would have kept his word and given his guest safe-conduct had

-not Fitz-James, burning to be at him, absolved him from it, and they

-fight close by the ford. Just as Roderick is about to stab his foe

-mortally he himself sinks down, overcome with loss of blood, and some

-men-at-arms from Stirling ride up, greeting Fitz-James as the King.

-They carry the senseless body of Roderick back with them to Stirling.

-

-When the King is once again in his own fortress games and sports take

-place, and Ellen’s father, who has dared to attend them incognito,

-reveals himself in a burst of temper and is captured.

-

-Ellen now makes her way to Stirling, carrying the ring, which proves

-an Open Sesame, and discovers to her astonishment the “knight in

-Lincoln green” who wooed her in the forest is no other than the monarch

-himself. James keeps his word, forgives her father, and pledges her to

-young Malcolm. Roderick, whose crimes would have made him difficult to

-pardon, conveniently dies, and the story finishes happily.

-

-[Sidenote: Scott in the Trossachs]

-

-Scott was very particular that the scenery of his plot should be

-correct, and visited the Trossachs carefully, and even rode from Loch

-Vennachar to Stirling, to make sure of the possibility of the feat he

-attributed to Fitz-James. In view of the warlike nature of the poem,

-Lockhart remarks it was rather an odd coincidence that the first time

-Scott entered the Trossachs he did so “riding in all the dignity of

-danger, with a front and rear guard and loaded arms, to enforce the

-execution of a legal instrument against some Maclarens, refractory

-tenants of Stewart of Appin.”

-

-

-

-

-CHAPTER II

-

-THE ROYAL CITY OF STIRLING

-

-

-As a good deal of the scene of the poem is laid at Stirling, and as

-most people will take the opportunity of breaking their journey at so

-classic a town, a few pages must be devoted to it.

-

-[Illustration: STIRLING CASTLE, FROM THE KING’S KNOT.

-

-In 1304 the Castle was taken by the English after a three month’s

-siege, and held by them until the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314.]

-

-[Sidenote: The “Round Table”]

-

-The rock on which the castle of Stirling stands is a most remarkable

-object in the landscape, jutting out with the precipitousness of a

-sea-cliff from the plain. It is absolutely inaccessible on the one

-side, but slopes away on the other, and it is on these slopes that the

-town stands. Many a visitor has grumbled at the long pull up through

-the narrow, and in some places squalid, streets before reaching the

-castle; but the reward is great, for the view is far-reaching. It

-may be best seen, however, from a place called the Ladies’ Rock in

-the churchyard, because there it includes the castle-rock on its

-steepest side. Here, also, there is to be found a plan of all the

-mountains by which they may be identified—Bens Ledi, Lomond, Vane,

-More, and Voirlich; also, down below, is a curious turf-garden, called

-the King’s Knot, said to have been the scene of the mimic games and

-contests of the Court. It was here Scott laid the scene of the games

-described in the poem, and with what redoubled interest can the

-account be read, when, having seen the place, memory can conjure up

-a mind-picture of it! This odd terracing is mentioned by Barbour, in

-describing the flight of Edward II. after Bannockburn, as the Round

-Table. It is within the bounds of possibility that it existed in the

-days of King Arthur, for centuries before Arthur’s time Stirling was

-a Roman station, and the King in his day is known to have been in the

-neighbourhood.

-

-The history of Stirling reaches back beyond all records. Long before

-Edinburgh had attained its position as capital of the kingdom, while

-it was still but a Border fortress, liable to be taken and retaken as

-English or Scots extended their territory, Stirling was one of the

-strongholds of the country. From time immemorial some fortress had

-stood on this impregnable position. In 1124 Alexander I. died here, so

-that it must then have been a fortress-palace, and in 1304 the castle

-held out for three months against Edward I. of England. After it was

-taken it remained in the possession of England until the Battle of

-Bannockburn, and Bannockburn lies only about three miles from Stirling.

-Even the supine Edward II. wended his way so far north with the object

-of retaining such a desirable place. James III. was born here, and

-probably James IV. also, while James V., the hero of _The Lady of the

-Lake_, was crowned in the parish church as a toddling child of two. His

-much-discussed daughter, Queen Mary, passed the years of her childhood

-at the castle. Her little son James, who was destined to unite the two

-kingdoms, was baptized at the castle with tremendous ceremony, while

-his father, Darnley, sulked apart, and refused to take his proper

-position. Here James VI. and I. spent mainly the first thirteen years

-of his life, under the tutelage of the scholar George Buchanan, and it

-was only when he became King of England that Stirling ceased to be a

-royal residence.

-

-Of the origin of the name Stirling there is no certain record. In

-old records it is spelt Stryveling, Strivilin, and so on, through

-various minor alterations, wherefore it has sometimes been held to mean

-“strife,” a most appropriate signification. It used occasionally to be

-referred to also as Snowdon, a fact mentioned in Scott’s poem:

-

-                  For Stirling’s Tower

-    Of yore the name of Snowdon claims.

-

-[Sidenote: The Wandering King]

-

-By far the most striking part of the castle is the palace, which was

-begun by James IV. and finished by James V. This is in the form of a

-square, and is decidedly French in character, a fact attributed to

-the influence of his wife, Mary of Guise. Strange life-size figures

-project beneath arcades, and the carving is in some cases most weird

-and grotesque. James V. was very much associated with the castle. He

-was fond of assuming disguises and wandering about incognito among his

-people; for this purpose he sometimes took the name of the “Gudeman of

-Ballengeich,” Ballengeich being a road running below the castle walls.

-The songs “The Gaberlunzie Man” and “We’ll gang nae mair a-rovin” are

-said to have been founded on his exploits. He was renowned for his

-success with the fair sex, and altogether the rôle given to him by

-Scott fits him admirably.

-

-The castle is now occupied by a garrison, and the picturesque Highland

-dress of the men adds much as a foreground to the grey walls of the

-old buildings. An awkward squad may frequently be seen drilling in the

-courtyard, unkindly exposed to the eyes of passing visitors. In this

-square is the Parliament House, built by James III., and this is where

-the last Parliament in Scotland held its sittings.

-

-[Sidenote: The Douglas Room]

-

-The Douglas Room, reached by a narrow passage, will, however, claim

-most attention from those to whom history is a living thing. It was

-here that James II. stabbed the Earl of Douglas in 1452. The Douglases

-had so grown in power and influence, that it had begun to be a question

-whether Stuarts or Douglases should reign in Scotland. The King was

-afraid of the power of his mighty rivals, and accordingly invited

-the Douglas, the eighth Earl, to come as his guest to the castle for

-a conference. The Douglas came without misgiving, though it is said

-he demanded, and received, a safe-conduct. It was about the middle

-of January, and no doubt huge log fires warmed the inclement air in

-the great draughty halls where the party dined and supped with much

-appearance of cordiality and goodwill, but beneath lay hate and terror

-and rancour, bitter as the grave.

-

-After supper the King drew Douglas aside to an inner chamber, and tried

-to persuade him to break away from the allies which threatened, with

-his house, to form a combination disastrous to the security of the

-throne. The Earl refused, and high words began to fly from one to the

-other. The King demanded that Douglas should break from his allies, and

-the Earl replied again he would not. “Then this shall!” cried the King,

-twice stabbing his guest with his own royal hand. Sir Patrick Grey, who

-was near by, came up and finished the job with a pole-axe, and then the

-body was thrown over into the court below. It was a gross violation of

-every law of decency even in those lawless days, and well the King must

-have known the storm his action would arouse. Burton, the historian of

-Scotland, adduces this as evidence that the crime was not meditated,

-but done in a mere fit of ungovernable rage. The murdered man’s four

-brothers surrounded and besieged the castle, and nailing to a cross

-in contempt the safe-conduct the King had given, trailed it through

-the miry streets tied to the tail of the wretchedest horse they could

-find, thus publishing the ignominy of their Sovereign. They burnt and

-destroyed wherever they could, and the King had many years of strenuous

-warfare before him as a result of that night’s work.

-

-From the castle battlements the “bonny links of Forth” can be seen

-winding and looping and doubling on themselves, and also the old

-bridge, which was the key to the Highlands and the only dry passage

-across the Forth for centuries. This bridge is even older than any

-existing part of the castle. It has seen many desperate skirmishes,

-most notable of which was that of 1715, when the Duke of Argyll, with

-only 1,500 men, held here in check thousands of Highlanders. Here we

-must leave Stirling, without noting the rest of the old buildings, as

-this is no guide-book, and the city is merely looked upon as the key to

-the Trossachs and the scene of some of the drama enacted in _The Lady

-of the Lake_.

-

-

-

-

-CHAPTER III

-

-BY THE ROUTE OF THE FIERY CROSS TO BALQUHIDDER

-

-

-Few indeed of those who come up comfortably by rail to Callander,

-and step at once to a seat on a waiting four-horsed coach, adorned

-by a scarlet-coated driver and tootling horn, ever think of arriving

-a day sooner and exploring northward along the continuation of the

-single line which has brought them so far, or, better still, of going

-on northward by road through the Pass of Leny to beautiful little

-Strathyre for the night. Yet they miss much by not doing so, for at

-Balquhidder, a little beyond Strathyre, is the grave of Rob Roy and the

-reputed graves of his wife and son, while up the Pass of Leny itself

-was carried the fiery cross, so that the story of _The Lady of the

-Lake_ is hardly complete without a visit to it.

-

-Few more beautiful passes are to be seen than Leny. The dashing stream

-which runs in a wooded cleft below the road is exactly what one expects

-a Scottish stream to be. The brown peat-water breaks in cascades

-over huge grey weather-worn stones, or lies in deep clear pools. The

-irregularities of its course reveal new beauties at every turn: the

-dripping green ferns, for ever sprinkled with the spray, hang quivering

-over the agate depths, and the emerald moss, saturated like a sponge,

-softens the sharp angles of stones. Tufts of free-growing heather,

-large as bushes, add colour to the scene, and the slender white stems

-of the birches rise gracefully amid the gnarled alders and dark-needled

-firs. The Falls of Leny are reached by a footpath from the road.

-

-Angus, carrying the cross, was confronted by the stream, which divided

-him from the chapel of St. Bride, whose site is now marked by a small

-graveyard just where the water issues from Loch Lubnaig. He had to

-plunge in, panting and hot as he was.

-

-    He stumbled twice—the foam splashed high,

-    With hoarser swell the stream raced by.

-

-Then, gaining the shore, he faced the chapel entrance just as a gay

-crowd came forth escorting a newly-wedded pair.

-

-[Illustration: LOCH VENNACHAR.

-

-Here was Coilantogle Ford where King James V. fought Roderick Dhu.]

-

-    In rude but glad procession came

-    Bonneted sire and coif-clad dame;

-    And plaided youth with jest and jeer,

-    Which snooded maiden would not hear.

-

-[Sidenote: The Bridegroom’s Part]

-

-Scott does not tell us why the dripping youth selected the bridegroom

-out of all the crowd to carry on the brand, but doubtless there were

-reasons: it was possibly his right as a senior in the clan. Still, it

-is little wonder that the unfortunate man, who dared not refuse, yet

-hesitated.

-

-    Yet slow he laid his plaid aside

-    And, lingering, eyed his lovely bride

-    Until he saw the starting tear

-    Speak woe he might not stop to cheer;

-    Then trusting not a second look,

-    In haste he sped him up the brook.

-

-       *       *       *       *       *

-

-    Mingled with love’s impatience came

-    The manly thirst for martial fame.

-

-       *       *       *       *       *

-

-    Stung by such thoughts, o’er bank and brae

-    Like fire from flint he glanced away.

-

-The railway crosses the stream about this point, and continues up the

-west side of the loch, while the road keeps on the right, or eastern,

-side. The rail passes Laggan Farm, said to be the birthplace of Rob’s

-Amazonian wife, Helen, who takes a part only second to himself in the

-reader’s imagination. Passing along, therefore, on either side we come,

-soon after the head of the loch, to bonny little Strathyre, lying amid

-its great hills, which are flushed as if with fire when the setting sun

-catches the sweep of the heather in season.

-

-Only a few miles beyond Strathyre is Balquhidder, lying on the road

-to Loch Voil. The loch lies in a very beautiful situation at the foot

-of the range known as the Braes of Balquhidder, culminating in Ben

-A’an and Ben More. It is on the property of Mr. Carnegie, whose house,

-Stronvar, is at the east side. In the adventurous journey made by the

-Wordsworths in the beginning of the nineteenth century, they actually

-walked over the mountains to Balquhidder from Loch Katrine by a wild,

-rough track, and at the foot of the hills waded through the river.

-Dorothy thus describes the scenery: “The mountains all round are very

-high; the vale pastoral and unenclosed, not many dwellings and but a

-few trees; the mountains in general smooth near the bottom. They are in

-large unbroken masses, combining with the vale to give an impression

-of bold simplicity.”

-

-[Illustration: LOCH LUBNAIG.

-

-It was at the end of this loch that Angus handed the Fiery Cross to the

-Bridegroom.]

-

-There were a few reapers in the fields, and it was from this fact that

-Wordsworth was inspired to write his poem _The Solitary Reaper_. The

-brother and sister visited the graves at Balquhidder before passing on

-to Callander.

-

-It is said that when the freebooter Rob Roy lay dying in his own

-house at Balquhidder, his wife mocked at his repentance. He rebuked

-her, saying: “You have put strife betwixt me and the best men of the

-country, and now you would place enmity between me and my God.”

-

-[Sidenote: Rob Roy’s Grave]

-

-The grave of Rob Roy is in the little old graveyard, and is only a

-few feet from the gate. There are rude sculptured figures on the

-flat stone, seemingly far older than the days of the freebooter, but

-possibly an old stone was used to mark the place where he at length

-rested after his roving life. This is not the only association that

-Balquhidder evokes, for it is mentioned in _The Legend of Montrose_,

-when the Clan Macgregor there agree to stand by the murderers of

-the King’s deer-keeper; and also in more modern fiction, when,

-in Stevenson’s _Kidnapped_, poor David breaks down utterly at

-Balquhidder, and has to be guarded and cared for by his quaint comrade,

-Alan Breck.

-

-But, tempting as it is to wander farther up the glen, here we must

-stop, or we shall get too far from our legitimate route through the

-Trossachs.

-

-

-

-

-CHAPTER IV

-

-APPROACHES TO THE TROSSACHS

-

-

-The route taken by the coaches leaves Callander in a northward

-direction, but soon turns off westward down a narrow muddy road

-forbidden to motor-cars; this runs beneath the shoulder of Ben Ledi.

-

-Ben Ledi means the Mount of God, and is believed to have been held

-sacred from the days when the Beltane mysteries were celebrated on it.

-Beltane was a Celtic festival celebrated about May 1 with fires and

-dances, and probably with sacrifices too. The scenery, however, is not

-as awe-inspiring as these weird memories would lead one to expect—in

-fact, for all this first part of the Trossachs’ round the traveller’s

-imagination must supply all the fire he needs. For instance, the very

-prosaic sluices erected by the Glasgow Water Company at the end of Loch

-Vennachar, which soon comes into view, mark the site of Coilantogle

-Ford, across which Roderick promised the King a safe-conduct, and where

-the two fought with such fury when the outlaw revealed himself.

-

-    The chief in silence strode before,

-    And reach’d that torrent’s sounding shore

-    Which, daughter of three mighty lakes,

-    From Vennachar in silver breaks.

-

-The road passes all along the shores of Loch Vennachar, and where at

-the end there lies a meadow, embraced on the far side by the Finlas

-Water, we are at another classic spot, for this is Lanrick Mead, the

-meeting-place of the Macgregor clansmen. We can see very well why

-it should have been chosen, for it guards at its narrowest part the

-pass, and anyone approaching from the Callander—_i.e._, the Doune

-or Stirling direction—would be easily stopped, though it would be

-possible for men to come along the south side of Lochs Vennachar

-and Achray. The mead also commands the approach from the south via

-Aberfoyle, and any body of men coming down the hill on this side would

-be full in view. After this we arrive at the Brig o’ Turk, a small

-bridge over the Finlas Water. It was close by here, at a few huts

-marking Duncraggan, that Malise delivered up the cross to Angus. But

-he had done his work well.

-

-    The fisherman forsook the strand,

-    The swarthy smith took dirk and brand;

-    With changèd cheer the mower blithe

-    Left in the half-cut swathe the scythe;

-    The herds without a keeper stray’d,

-    The plough was in mid-furrow staid,

-    The falc’ner tossed his hawk away,

-    The hunter left the stag at bay;

-    Prompt at the signal of alarms,

-    Each son of Alpine rush’d to arms.

-

-[Illustration: BRIG O’ TURK AND BEN VENUE.

-

-In the great stag hunt, with which Scott’s poem opens, it was at this

-point that “the headmost horseman rode alone.”]

-

-We are now right in the Trossachs proper, and find the huge, palatial

-hotel which goes by that name facing little Loch Achray.

-

-Having arrived at the junction of the roads—that is, the two principal

-approaches already noted—it is necessary to run over the ground from

-Aberfoyle before continuing the part through the Trossachs common to

-both routes.

-

-[Sidenote: Aberfoyle]

-

-Aberfoyle itself is full of associations, but they are nearly all

-connected with _Rob Roy_. It stands as a meeting-place of Highlands and

-Lowlands, and as such has seen many storms. The earlier part of the

-Forth, here known as the Laggan, runs past the town, and the old saying

-“Forth bridles the wild Highlandman” is full of significance. Of this

-district says Mr. Cunninghame Graham: “Nearly every hill and strath has

-had its battles between the Grahames and the Macgregors. Highlander

-and Lowlander fought in the lonely glens or on the stony hills, or

-drank together in the aqua-vitæ houses in the times of their precarious

-peace.”

-

-Far the most interesting scene laid at Aberfoyle, in all the realism

-of fiction, is that in _Rob Roy_, when Bailie Nicol Jarvie, and young

-Osbaldistone arrived, wearied out, seeking shelter at the primitive

-Clachan, and were refused because “three Hieland shentlemens” wanted

-the place to themselves. The landlady said her house was taken up “wi’

-them wadna like to be intruded on wi’ strangers,” an objection for

-which there was probably strong underlying reason!

-

-The row that subsequently took place when the stout little Bailie

-defended himself with the red-hot coulter of a plough is too well known

-to need quotation. Suffice it to say, in evidence of the truth of the

-story, that a coulter, traditionally said to be the very weapon, hangs

-on a tree outside the hotel, which bears his name, to this very day.

-

-[Illustration: IN THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS.]

-

-[Sidenote: The Pass of Aberfoyle]

-

-The pass which leads by Lochs Ard and Chon north-westward to

-Stronachlachar has been much used at all times, and has seen desperate

-forays, but none perhaps more desperate than that described in _Rob

-Roy_ when the Bailie and Osbaldistone, unwillingly setting forth up it

-with an escort of soldiery, were attacked from the heights above by

-the redoubtable Helen Macgregor and her men, and very narrowly escaped

-death. Scott thus describes the pass:

-

-“Our route, though leading toward the lake, had hitherto been so much

-shaded by wood that we only from time to time obtained a glimpse of

-that beautiful sheet of water. But the road now suddenly emerged from

-the forest ground, and, winding close by the margin of the loch,

-afforded us a full view of its spacious mirror, which now, the breeze

-having totally subsided, reflected in still magnificence the high dark

-heathy mountains, huge grey rocks and shaggy banks, by which it is

-encircled. The hills now sank on its margin so closely, and were so

-broken and precipitous, as to afford no passage except just upon the

-narrow line of the track which we occupied and which was overhung with

-rocks, from which we might have been destroyed merely by rolling down

-stones, without much possibility of offering resistance. Add to this

-that as the road winded round every promontory and bay which indented

-the lake, there was rarely a possibility of seeing a hundred yards

-before us.”

-

-It was when the party had reached a spot where the path rose in zigzags

-and made its slippery way across the face of a steep slaty cliff that

-they suddenly discovered they were in an ambuscade under the command

-of Helen Macgregor herself. The desperate fight that followed, all in

-favour of the outlaws who commanded the situation; the ludicrous plight

-of the fat little Bailie, who, caught by the back of the coat on a

-projecting thorn-bush, swung in mid-air, “where he dangled not unlike

-the sign of the Golden Fleece over the door of a mercer in the Trongate

-of his native city”—are not these things writ in the ever-enduring

-pages of _Rob Roy_? More awful was the doom of Morris the Gauger, or

-Exciseman, who was dragged out, condemned as a spy, and drowned by the

-aid of a large stone bound in a plaid about his neck. “Half naked and

-thus manacled, they hurled him into the lake, there about twelve feet

-deep, with a loud halloo of vindictive triumph, above which, however,

-his last death shriek, the yell of mortal agony, was distinctly heard.”

-

-The lake thus woven into the tale is supposed to be Loch Ard. The Falls

-of Ledard, at the north-western end, are the falls described by Scott

-in _Waverley_, as he himself has owned, though it must be confessed in

-so doing he lifted them from their setting. Flora MacIvor’s song—

-

-    There is mist on the mountain and night on the vale,

-    But more dark is the sleep of the sons of the Gael

-

-—is descriptive of this scenery.

-

-[Sidenote: “Rebels and Mossers”]

-

-But the Pass of Aberfoyle has scenes of real history to tell as well as

-those of fiction. General Monk led his men through it after addressing

-a letter to the Earl of Airth, desiring him to have the woods in

-certain districts of Aberfoyle cut down, because they were “grete

-shelters to the rebels and mossers.”

-

-In the pass, also, the Earl of Glencairn and Graham of Duchray defeated

-some of the Cromwellian soldiers, and, adds Mr. Cunninghame Graham in

-recounting the incident, “Graham of Duchray no doubt fought all the

-better because the Cromwellians had burnt his house the night before

-the action, in order to show him that it was unwise to attach too much

-importance to mere houses built with hands.”

-

-Aberfoyle is supposed to be peculiarly haunted by the “little

-folk”—_i.e._, the fairies—a reputation it gained from a

-seventeenth-century minister, who was supposed to be in league with

-them. He is frequently mentioned by Scott, and the fairy knowe,

-opposite the hotel, on which he sank down dead, called back to the

-fairyland he loved so well, is still pointed out. He,

-

-    When the roaring Garry ran

-      Red with the life-blood of Dundee,

-    When coats were turning, crowns were falling,

-      Wandered along his valley still,

-    And heard their mystic voices calling

-      From fairy knowe and haunted hill.

-

-[Sidenote: Lake of Menteith]

-

-Not less interesting than the west side is the country lying east of

-Aberfoyle, where, at about an equal distance, is the lake of Menteith.

-As significant of the wildness of the place in bygone days, we may

-note that one Earl of Menteith declared war against “all but the kinge

-and those of the name of Grahame.” Menteith was from earliest times one

-of the five great districts into which Scotland was divided. The Earls

-of Menteith (Grahams) were ever at feud with the warlike Macgregors,

-and, as often happens, the feuds raged worst just on the borders of the

-Highlands, where men might attack and retreat in safety, knowing every

-track which led into their wild fastnesses.

-

-The lake of Menteith is about two miles by one, and it is curious to

-note this is the only _lake_ in Scotland. On it is an island, where

-the Earls had their residence. Another island, called Inchmahone, is,

-however, more interesting still. The word means “Isle of Rest,” and

-such it was found by the monks who lived here in ages long gone past.

-Ruins are left, a moulded doorway, a fine monument, to tell of their

-occupation, but “gone are the Augustinian monks who built the stately

-island church. Out of the ruined chancel grows a plane-tree, which is

-almost ripe. In the branches rooks have built their nests, and make as

-cheerful matins as perhaps the monks themselves. The giant chestnuts,

-grown, as tradition says, from chestnuts brought from Rome, are all

-stag-headed. Ospreys used to build in them in the memory of those still

-living. Gone are the ‘Riders of Menteith’ (if they ever existed); the

-ruggers and the reivers are at one with those they harried. The Grahams

-and Macgregors, the spearmen and the jackmen, the hunters and the

-hawkers, the livers by their spurs, the luckless Earls of Menteith and

-their retainers, are buried and forgotten, and the tourist cracks his

-biscuit and his jest over their tombs” (Cunninghame Graham).

-

-The “Riders of Menteith” are spoken of in history, but whether, as Mr.

-Graham asks, they were mortal riders or a sort of _Walküren_, sacred to

-the Valhalla of the district, history does not enlighten us.

-

-[Sidenote: The Four Maries]

-

-Queen Mary, as a little girl of five, was brought to the island of

-Inchmahone after the Battle of Pinkie, and lived here for a whole year,

-until she went to France to be betrothed to the Dauphin. Her childish

-dreams beneath the great chestnuts can have contained no shadow of the

-stormy life and fearful end that awaited her. She was even at that time

-accompanied by the “four Maries” who attended on her, one of whom,

-Mary Hamilton, met the tragic fate of execution.

-

-    Last nicht there were four Maries,

-      This nicht there’ll be but three:

-    There was Mary Beaton and Mary Seaton,

-      And Mary Carmichael and me.

-

-The road from Aberfoyle to the Trossachs rises very steeply past some

-slate-quarries. As we rise the hills come into view—Ben Ledi and Ben

-Venue, with Ben Lomond dominating all the landscape; Ben Voil peeping

-over Ben Lawers; and on the clearest days, far in the distance, Ben

-Nevis, Schiehallion, and many others. Far below to the right lies Loch

-Drunkie, and much nearer the desolate little tarn called Loch Reoichte,

-which signifies “frozen,” and this among them all for desolate beauty

-stands first. Close by the road is a drinking-fountain, called “Rob

-Roy’s Well,” where the tourist is invited to slake his thirst, though

-the real well, to which the tradition attaches, is away from the road,

-above the slate-quarries on Craig Vadh. On the ridge of this same Craig

-Vadh, by the way, are curious cairns, covering the spot where the

-bodies of those slain in a Border foray were found. When the road at

-length descends we have the pleasing duty of paying an impost, or toll,

-for the use of it—and by no means a low one either—and thus we come

-to Loch Achray and the Trossachs Hotel, and pick up the thread where it

-was dropped.

-

-

-

-

-CHAPTER V

-

-THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS

-

-

-As we have heard the Trossachs signifies “bristled territory,” a

-suitable name enough, and as they have been described by the master

-himself, there would be little use in trying to improve upon his words,

-which are as follows:

-

-    With boughs that quaked at every breath,

-    Grey birch and aspen wept beneath;

-    Aloft, the ash and warrior oak

-    Cast anchor in the rifted rock;

-    And, higher yet, the pine-tree hung

-    His shattered trunk, and frequent flung,

-    Where seem’d the cliffs to meet on high,

-    His boughs athwart the narrow’d sky.

-    Highest of all where white peaks glanced,

-    Where glistening streamers waved and danced,

-    The wanderer’s eye could barely view

-    The summer heaven’s delicious blue;

-    So wondrous wild, the whole might seem

-    The scenery of a fairy dream.

-

-[Sidenote: Dorothy Wordsworth]

-

-It must be remembered that the beautiful even road which now runs

-through the heart of this fairyland was a work of great difficulty

-and cost. It has been hewn out of the side of the rock, and built up

-by the side of the loch in order to facilitate the constant stream of

-tourists. At first there were several wild pathways leading down to

-Loch Katrine through a perfect wilderness of boughs and undergrowth,

-and at the end a precipitous drop over the edge of a steep crag, only

-scaled by the aid of a sort of natural ladder of saplings and tendrils,

-and it is thus that Scott makes Fitz-James approach the loch. In the

-beginning of the nineteenth century, however, when Dorothy Wordsworth

-and her brother reached the Trossachs from Loch Katrine, a great

-improvement had taken place. When nearing the end of the lake, she

-says, they came in sight of two huts, which had been built by Lady

-Perth as a shelter for visitors. “The huts stand at a small distance

-from each other, on a high and perpendicular rock, that rises from the

-bed of the lake. A road, which has a very wild appearance, has been

-cut through the rock; yet even here, among these bold precipices, the

-feeling of excessive beautifulness overcomes every other.”

-

-[Illustration: THE SILVER STRAND, LOCH KATRINE.

-

-Where Scott describes the meeting between Fitz-James and Ellen of the

-Isle.]

-

-In her there was already that new appreciation of the natural

-beauty which her brother was to do so much to encourage in all. Her

-description of the Trossachs, after they had landed, clearly shows

-this: “Above and below us, to the right and to the left, were rocks,

-knolls, and hills, which, whenever anything could grow—and that was

-everywhere between the rocks—were covered with trees and heather. The

-trees did not in any place grow so thick as an ordinary wood, yet I

-think there was never a bare space of twenty yards; it was more like a

-natural forest, where the trees grow in groups or singly, not hiding

-the surface of the ground, which, instead of being green and mossy, was

-of the richest purple. The heather was indeed the most luxuriant I ever

-saw; it was so tall that a child of ten years old struggling through

-it would often have been buried head and shoulders, and the exquisite

-beauty of the colour, near or at a distance, seen under the trees is

-not to be conceived.”

-

-And as it was then so it is now: a better description of the peculiar

-scenery of the Trossachs could hardly be given, especially if we add

-the detail that bog-myrtle and birches grow abundantly, adding to the

-fragrance and poetry of the place. Winding round to the right runs

-the road to the Silver Strand, now much covered by the rising of the

-water owing to the precautions taken by the Glasgow Waterworks, which

-gets its supply from Loch Katrine. Here Fitz-James is supposed to

-have stood. Right in front is Ellen’s Isle, thickly wooded; behind it

-rises the vast shoulder of Ben Venue, and away to the right stretches

-westward the full length of the lake, broken by promontories,

-

-    Where, gleaming with the setting sun,

-    One burnish’d sheet of living gold,

-    Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll’d;

-    In all her length far winding lay,

-    With promontory, creek and bay,

-    And islands that, empurpled bright,

-    Floated amid the livelier light;

-    And mountains, that like giants stand,

-    To sentinel enchanted land.

-    High on the south, huge Ben Venue

-    Down to the lake in masses threw

-    Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurl’d,

-    The fragments of an earlier world.

-

-In the whole of a justly celebrated poem there is no passage finer than

-this, and, oft quoted as it has been, it would be impossible to omit

-it.

-

-Ellen’s Isle is, of course, so named after Scott’s heroine; the

-Highland name is Eilean Molach, meaning the “Shaggy Island,” and it is

-quite likely that with this in his mind Scott chose the name Ellen as

-the nearest English-sounding equivalent.

-

-The Goblin’s Cave, to which Ellen and her family retreated, is on the

-side of Ben Venue, and above is the Bealach Nambo, or the Pass of the

-Cattle, which Scott alluded to as:

-

-    The dell upon the mountain’s crest

-    Yawned like a gash on warrior’s breast.

-

-This can be reached on foot by a not too difficult walk, but most

-people prefer to view it from below. The Goblin’s Cave is impossible of

-exact identification, if, indeed, it had any actual prototype.

-

-[Sidenote: Loch Katrine]

-

-It has been suggested that the name of Loch Katrine arose from the

-hordes of robbers, or caterans, who infested its shores. If this be

-so, the name has been softened into something much more appropriate to

-the loveliness of the scenery, which is at its best at the east end.

-The Wordsworth party, indeed, coming from the other end, were at first

-disappointed. As the only means of transit was by a small row-boat,

-Coleridge was afraid of the cold and walked along the northern shore

-from Glengyle, though not, of course, on the well-made-up road which

-runs part of the way at present. Wordsworth himself slept in the bottom

-of the boat, which they had procured with much difficulty, and told his

-sister to awake him if anything worth seeing occurred. It was not until

-they nearly reached the eastern end that she did this, though then she

-confessed that what they saw was “the perfection of loveliness and

-beauty.”

-

-The lake is about eight miles long by three-quarters broad, but the

-actual width varies very much, owing to the numerous indentations.

-The road on the northern shore runs to Glengyle, but there stops, so

-that the only means of getting right on to Loch Lomond is to take the

-steamer, which awaits tourists several times daily. No doubt a road by

-which cyclists could travel on their own account would be strenuously

-resisted in the neighbourhood, where the chief aim and object of

-the tourist’s being is supposed to be to pay for everything. On the

-southern side the steepness of the precipices of Ben Venue prevents any

-possibility of a road.

-

-[Illustration: LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN’S ISLE.]

-

-Opposite to Ben Venue, and best seen from the lake itself, is Ben A’an,

-only 1,750 feet in height. At the north-west end of Loch Katrine is

-Glengyle, the hereditary burial-place of the Macgregors.

-

-The steamer stops at Stronachlachar, about three-quarters of the way

-down the lake on the south side, and here a coach meets it to convey

-passengers across to Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond.

-

-[Sidenote: “Stepping Westward”]

-

-With Loch Katrine the scenes identified with _The Lady of the Lake_

-come to an end. The road to Loch Lomond passes over a wild, rough

-heath, in strong contrast to the wooded loveliness of the eastern end

-of Loch Katrine, but quite as attractive to some natures, especially

-when the soft grey clouds lie low and the russets and browns of the

-bracken and heather replace the rich glory of its purple robe. It

-was hereabouts that the Wordsworths, when returning to Lomond, were

-greeted by two Highland women, who said in a friendly way: “What! you

-are stepping westward”—a simple sentence which gave Wordsworth the

-inspiration for the poem which he wrote long afterwards beginning with

-the same words.

-

-[Sidenote: The Real Rob Roy]

-

-Loch Arklet lies very flat between its shores, and has no beauty except

-its wildness. At one end lived for some time Rob Roy and his wife;

-indeed, all this district, right up to Glen Falloch on the one side,

-and down to the shoulders of Ben Lomond on the other, is associated

-with the outlaw, of whom Scott made a hero. The district has also

-associations with a much greater than he, for it is redolent of the

-wanderings of Robert the Bruce, when he was hunted by his bitter

-enemies, the men of Lorn.

-

-It is supposed that Roderick Dhu in Scott’s poem was a shadowy form

-of Rob Roy, who is more developed in the book which was published

-seven years later. Both were of uncommon personal strength, both were

-cattle-lifters and outlaws, both were of the great clan of Macgregor,

-and there are minor resemblances.

-

-[Illustration: BEN A’AN (Seen from Loch Katrine).]

-

-Rob’s designation was “of Inversnaid,” and he owned Craig Royston, a

-district lying east of Lomond, near the north end. He began as a man

-of property and a land-holder, rough and poor as his territory was.

-He went on to be a cattle-dealer on a large scale, and this turned to

-something more nefarious. A distraint was levied on his property, and

-he had to leave the shores of Lomond. To this fact is attributed the

-wild piper’s tune of “The Lament of Rob Roy,” composed by his wife,

-which has something of the mournful beauty of the country incorporated

-in its weird strains:

-

-    Through the depths of Loch Lomond the steed shall career,

-    O’er the heights of Ben Lomond the galley shall steer,

-    And the rocks of Craig Royston like icicles melt,

-    Ere our wrongs be forgot, or our vengeance unfelt.

-

-Rob seems to have been in some way a Robin Hood, exercising generosity

-toward those poorer and weaker than himself, and he was greatly beloved

-by the people in consequence. Many a ballad is connected with his name,

-and he became a popular hero even before his death. He took part in

-1715 Rebellion on the Jacobite side, and at the Battle of Sheriffmuir

-seems to have been afflicted with the peculiar indecision that

-paralyzed both sides on that memorable day. He was leading, beside his

-own clan, a party of Macphersons, whose chief was too infirm to take

-the field, and he retained his station on a hill, though positively

-ordered by the Earl of Mar to charge. It is said that this charge might

-have decided the day. This incident is embodied in the ballad on the

-occasion:

-

-        Rob Roy he stood watch

-        On a hill for to catch

-    The booty for aught that I saw, mon;

-        For he ne’er advanced

-        From the place where he stanced

-    Till nae mair was to do there at a’, mon.

-

-It is impossible to give even an account of all Rob’s pranks, some of

-which are doubtless mythical, and others which do not greatly redound

-to his credit. He had certainly that picturesque personality which has

-attracted romancers in all ages, and he formed a very fitting subject

-for Scott’s pen.

-

-In the end he turned Roman Catholic, and died, as already stated, at

-Balquhidder.

-

-The road drops very steeply down to Lomond, and passes the earthworks

-which mark the site of a fort built by William III. to overawe the

-rebels. The fort, being on the great outlaw’s property, was an object

-of peculiar hatred. Twice it was surprised and taken—once by Roy

-himself and once by his nephew. It is said that at one time General,

-then Captain, Wolfe was in command of it.

-

-[Sidenote: The Highland Girl]

-

-The little stream Arklet dances and brawls over its bed, in its descent

-accompanying the road, and at length leaps into the lake by a splendid

-waterfall thirty feet in height. Close by this is the palatial hotel at

-Inversnaid, a brother to the one at the Trossachs. When the Wordsworths

-arrived here the first time, after having with great difficulty

-got across Loch Lomond in a row-boat, they found only a miserable

-ferry-house, with a mud floor, and rain coming in at the roof. It was

-here that Wordsworth saw the prototype of his “sweet Highland girl.”

-

-

-

-

-CHAPTER VI

-

-LOMOND AND THE MACGREGORS

-

-

-[Sidenote: Ben Lomond]

-

-Lomond is one of the two most magnificent lochs in Scotland. It is

-twenty-one miles long, its only rival being Loch Awe, which is three

-miles longer. It is of a curious wedge shape, being about five miles

-broad at the low end and narrowing to a point in the north. In the

-widest part it bears a perfect archipelago of islands, once thickly

-populated, but now left mostly to deer and other wild creatures.

-There is a tradition of a floating island, repeated by many an

-ancient traveller; but all trace of this phenomenon has vanished—if,

-indeed, it ever existed. The fishing in the loch is free, and salmon,

-sea-trout, lake-trout, pike, and perch are to be caught. The nearness

-of the great lake to Glasgow is at once an advantage and a drawback.

-It is an advantage for the thousands that pour out of the grimy city

-on every holiday, and, at half an hour from their own doors, for a

-trifling sum, can spend joyous days in scenery which can be classed

-with the most beautiful in the world. But it is certainly not an

-unmixed joy to the real lover of Nature, who approaches the lake in

-a spirit of worship, to find the shores black with people and the

-steamers thronged with tourists. The attractions pointed out to those

-who pass up or down the great sheet of water are various. Not the

-least is the giant Ben, who raises his proud head on the eastern side,

-“a sort of Scottish Vesuvius, never wholly without a cloud-cap. You

-cannot move a step that it does not tower over you. In winter a vast

-white sugar-loaf; in summer a prismatic cone of yellow and amethyst

-and opaline lights; in spring a grey, gloomy, stony pile of rocks; in

-autumn a weather indicator, for when the mist curls down its sides and

-hangs in heavy wreaths from its double summit, ‘it has to rain,’ as the

-Spaniards say.”

-

-The mountain is 3,192 feet high, and the ascent is not difficult; by

-the gradually sloping way from the hotel at Rowardennan it is about

-five or six miles, without any very stiff climbing, and there is a

-choice of other routes. On a clear day, which is a rare boon, the

-view from the summit is superb. Sitting on its topmost pinnacle,

-one looks down the almost perpendicular north-eastern slope into the

-little valley where the River Forth may be said to take its rise. On

-the western side Loch Lomond stretches out in full length, and across

-the narrow isthmus of Tarbet is the sea-loch, Loch Long. Far away to

-the east and south the eye may range over the Lothians, Edinburgh, and

-Arthur’s Seat, and even to the distant hills of Cumberland and the

-Isle of Man; while farther west, backed by the Irish coast, is the

-whole scenery of the beautiful Clyde estuary and the nearer Hebrides.

-Northward, peak after peak, rise the stately masses of the Grampians.

-

-Leaving Inversnaid, the first point to which attention is usually

-drawn is the cave in the corries on the east side, called Rob Roy’s

-Cave; much farther down the loch, amid the screes of Ben Lomond, is

-another hole, called Rob Roy’s Prison. The Island Vow, midway across

-the loch opposite Inversnaid, owes its name to a corruption of Eilean

-Vhow, meaning the Brownies’ Isle, a fascinating enough name to a

-child. On the island are some remains of the Macfarlanes’ stronghold.

-Wordsworth’s poem _The Brownie_ originated with this island. On the

-farther shore, a little more northward, there is what is called the

-Pulpit Rock, a cell cut out on the face of the cliff so that it could

-be used for open-air preaching.

-

-[Sidenote: The Macfarlanes]

-

-Right opposite is Ben Voirlich, and, in its fastnesses, wild Loch Sloy,

-whose name formed the war-cry of the Macfarlanes.

-

-The reputation of this clan was not far behind the Macgregors as far as

-desperate courage and mad savagery count. Their headquarters were at

-first on the Isle of Inveruglas, just near the outflow of that stream

-into the loch; then they moved to the Brownies’ Island, doubtless

-finding the near neighbourhood of their hereditary enemies, the men of

-Lorn, too dangerous; but subsequently, becoming bolder, they went to

-Tarbet, and there settled.

-

-The name Tarbet means draw-boat, and the story goes that Haco, King

-of Norway, in 1263 entered Loch Long, and, sailing up it, made his

-men drag the long flat-bottomed boats across the isthmus, and launch

-them on Loch Lomond, in order that he might the more easily attack the

-people on its shores for plunder.

-

-The next point of interest is the promontory of Luss, which gives its

-name to Colquhoun of Luss, whose seat is on the next most beautiful

-wooded promontory at Rossdhu. This family is one of the most ancient on

-record, being able to trace its ancestry back to the Colquhouns in 1190

-and the Lusses in 1150, which two families were united in the main line

-by the marriage of a Colquhoun with the heiress of Luss about 1368.

-Mrs. Walford, the well-known novelist, is a scion of this family. The

-present mansion was built about the end of the eighteenth century, but

-a fragment of the old ancestral home is still standing. Not far off are

-Court Hill and Gallows Hill, where the chieftain tried delinquents,

-and where justice was meted out to them. The slogan of the clan means

-“Knoll of the willow.”

-

-Across the loch, on the opposite side, is Ross Priory, where Scott was

-staying with his friend Hector Macdonald when he wrote part of _Rob

-Roy_.

-

-[Illustration: LOCH LOMOND (Looking towards Glen Falloch).

-

-It is one of the largest lakes in Scotland, and forms part of the

-famous Trossachs round.]

-

-[Sidenote: The Islands]

-

-Just about here we are in a perfect world of islands, some of

-which—notably Inchmurrin—are preserved as a deer-park. At the south

-end are the ruins of a castle once inhabited by the Earls of Lennox,

-who belonged to the Macfarlane clan. Here Isabel, Duchess of

-Albany, retired when her father, husband, and sons had been executed

-at Stirling in 1424. Of the other islands, we have the names of

-Inchchlonaig, meaning the Island of Yew-trees, on which the yews are

-said to have been planted by Robert Bruce to furnish bows for his

-archers; Inchtavannach, or Monks’ Island; Inchcruin, Round Island;

-Inchfad, Long Island; and Inchcaillach, the Island of Women, from a

-nunnery once established here. This is close to the Pier of Balmaha,

-where is the entrance to a pass over the mountains, a well-known road

-in the old days of tribal war and bloodshed.

-

-The Wordsworths landed on Inchtavannach, and climbed to the top of it.

-Here is Dorothy’s description: “We had not climbed far before we were

-stopped by a sudden burst of prospect, so singular and beautiful that

-it was like a flash of images from another world. We stood with our

-backs to the hill of the island, which we were ascending, and which

-shut out Ben Lomond entirely and all the upper part of the lake, and

-we looked toward the foot of the lake, scattered over with islands,

-without beginning and without end. The sun shone, and the distant

-hills were visible—some through sunny mists, others in gloom with

-patches of sunshine; the lake was lost under the low and distant

-hills, and the islands lost in the lake, which was all in motion, with

-travelling fields of light, or dark shadows under rainy clouds. There

-are many hills, but no commanding eminence at a distance to confine the

-prospect, so that the land seemed endless as the water.... Immediately

-under my eyes lay one large flat island bare and green ... another, its

-next neighbour, was covered with heath and coppice wood, the surface

-undulating.... These two islands, with Inchtavannach, where we were

-standing, were intermingled with the water, I might say interbedded,

-and interveined with it, in a manner that was exquisitely pleasing.

-There were bays innumerable, straits or passages like calm rivers,

-land-locked lakes, and, to the main water, stormy promontories.”

-

-Not far from Rossdhu, on the west, is the entrance to Glen Fruin, the

-Glen of Weeping—a sad name, which turned out to be appropriate enough

-in view of the terrible scenes which happened here.

-

-[Sidenote: The Macgregors]

-

-The trouble began with the Macgregors. Their clan claimed descent

-from the third son of Alpine, King of the Scots, who lived about 787,

-and was therefore known by the alternative name of Clan Alpine. Their

-savage ways made them hated by their neighbours, and the Earls of

-Argyll and Breadalbane managed to obtain from the Government a right by

-charter to a great part of the lands belonging to the unfortunate clan.

-This, of course, was the signal for a fight to the death.

-

-From the time of Queen Mary onward various warrants were given to the

-other clans to make war on the unfortunate Macgregors, and to extirpate

-them as they would vermin. They were not only to be hounded out of

-existence, but the other clans were forbidden to supply them with the

-common necessaries of life. The climax was reached in the slaughter

-of Glen Fruin, which arose in this wise: Two of the Macgregors, being

-benighted, called at the house of one of the Colquhouns, and asked

-shelter. This was refused. They accordingly helped themselves to a

-sheep and supped off mutton, for which it is alleged they offered

-payment. The Laird of Luss seized them and had them both executed.

-Then the rest of the clan arose in wrath, and, to the number of three

-or four hundred strong, marched down to Luss. Sir Humphrey Colquhoun,

-receiving warning of their advance, called together his clansmen and

-others, to double the number of the invaders, and advanced to meet

-them, doing so in Glen Fruin.

-

-The clan of the Macgregors charged the Colquhouns with fury, and, owing

-to the fact that part of the opposing force was mounted, and that the

-horses got mired in the boggy ground, they were able, notwithstanding

-their inferiority of numbers, to get the best of it, whereupon they set

-upon their flying foes and slaughtered them mercilessly.

-

-The event which, however, lives in memory longest is that of the

-action of a gigantic Macgregor, called Dugald Ciar Mohr, or the “great

-mouse-coloured man,” who was in charge, as their tutor, of a party

-of youths from Glasgow. It is said that, excited by the sound of his

-clansmen shouting their war-cry, or incensed by the remarks of the

-youths against his clan, he lost his head; anyway, he slew them all in

-cold blood.

-

-[Sidenote: The Clerk’s Stone]

-

-The great stone called Leck-a-Mhinisteir, the “minister or clerk’s

-stone,” is still pointed out as the place where this horrid deed was

-done, and it is said the stone was bathed red in the blood of the

-hapless boys. This Dugald was the ancestor of Rob Roy and his tribe.

-

-The terrible song put by Sir Walter Scott into the mouths of the

-Macgregor boatmen carries with it a wild cry of savagery:

-

-    Proudly our pibroch has thrilled in Glen Fruin,

-      And Bannacha’s groans to our slogan replied;

-    Glen Luss and Rossdhu they are smoking in ruin;

-      And the best of Loch Lomond lie dead on its side.

-          Widow and Saxon maid

-          Long shall lament our raid,

-    Think of Clan Alpine with fear and with woe;

-          Lennox and Leven Glen

-          Shake when they hear again

-    Roderick vich Alpine dhu! ho feroe!

-

-After this defeat the fury and wrath of the other clans, who were in

-favour at Court, may be imagined, and the widows of the slain men, to

-the number of several score, were sent, dressed in deep mourning, and

-riding upon white palfreys, carrying each her husband’s bloody shirt,

-to demand vengeance of King James VI. on the Macgregors. The Court was

-then at Stirling, and surely Stirling never saw a more woesome sight!

-The vengeance they obtained was all that they could desire, for by an

-Act of Privy Council, dated April 3, 1603, the name of Macgregor was

-wiped out of the land, all those who bore it being compelled, under

-dire penalties, to adopt the name of some other clan; hence it was

-that Rob Roy was known as Rob Roy Macgregor Campbell. The Macgregors

-were forbidden to carry any weapons, and were otherwise penalized.

-The chief, Alistair Macgregor, who had led the fight at Glen Fruin,

-was seized, and hanged in 1604. Yet, in spite of these and other dire

-disabilities, the Macgregors continued to be Macgregors in heart,

-whatever they might call themselves, and held their heads as high as

-their own crest, a pine-tree. They attached themselves to the cause of

-King Charles in the Civil Wars, and were subsequently rewarded by the

-annulling of the Acts and having their rights restored to them.

-

-

-

-

-INDEX

-

-

-Aberfoyle, 31-40

-

-Aberfoyle, Pass of, 33-35

-

-Achray, Loch, 41

-

-Alexander I., 18

-

-Ard, Loch, 32, 35

-

-Argyll, Duke of, 22

-

-Arklet, Loch, 47

-

-Arklet (stream), 50

-

-

-Balquhidder, 26, 27

-

-Bannockburn, 18

-

-Bealach Nambo, 45

-

-Ben A’an, 26, 47

-

-Ben Ledi, 17, 29, 39

-

-Ben Lomond, 17, 39, 53

-

-Ben More, 17, 26

-

-Ben Nevis, 39

-

-Ben Vane, 17

-

-Ben Venue, 39, 45, 46

-

-Ben Voil, 39

-

-Ben Voirlich, 17, 55

-

-Brig o’ Turk, 30

-

-Buchanan, George, 18

-

-

-Callander, 23

-

-Carnegie, Mr., 26

-

-Coilantogle Ford, 29

-

-Coleridge, 46

-

-Colquhoun of Luss, 56

-

-Craig Royston, 48

-

-Craig Vadh, 39

-

-

-Douglas, Earl of, 20

-

-Drunkie, Loch, 39

-

-Duncraggan, 30

-

-

-Edward I., 18

-

-Edward II., 18

-

-Ellen’s Isle, 44, 45

-

-

-Falloch, Glen, 48

-

-Finlas Water, 30

-

-Forth, The, 22, 31

-

-

-Glasgow Waterworks, 29, 44

-

-Glencairn, Earl of, 35

-

-Glen Fruin, 58

-

-Glengyle, 46, 47

-

-Goblin’s Cave, 45

-

-Graham of Duchray, 35

-

-Grey, Sir Patrick, 20

-

-

-Inchcaillach, 57

-

-Inchchlonaig, 57

-

-Inchcruin, 57

-

-Inchfad, 57

-

-Inchmahone, 37

-

-Inchmurrin, 56

-

-Inchtavannach, 57

-

-Inversnaid, 48, 51

-

-Inveruglas, Isle, 55

-

-Island Vow, 54

-

-

-James II., 20

-

-James III., 18

-

-James IV., 18

-

-James V., 18, 19

-

-James VI., 18

-

-

-Katrine, Loch, 47

-

-_Kidnapped_, 27

-

-King’s Knot, The, 17

-

-

-_Lady of the Lake, The_, 5, 6, 9-15, 22, 23, 47

-

-_Lady of the Lake, The_, quoted, 24, 25, 30, 31, 41, 44, 45

-

-Laggan Farm, 26

-

-Lanrick Mead, 29

-

-Ledard, Falls of, 35

-

-_Legend of Montrose, The_, 27

-

-Leny, Falls of, 24

-

-Leny, Pass of, 23

-

-Lomond, Loch, 52-62

-

-Lubnaig, Loch, 24

-

-

-Macfarlane Clan, 55

-

-Macgregor Clan, 58-62

-

-Macgregor, Helen, 26, 34, 48

-

-Mary Queen of Scots, 18, 38

-

-Menteith, Earls of, 37

-

-Menteith, Lake of, 37

-

-

-Reoichte, Loch, 39

-

-Rob Roy, 5, 23, 27, 48-50, 61, 62

-

-_Rob Roy_, 5, 31-34, 56

-

-Robert the Bruce, 48

-

-Rossdhu, 58

-

-Routes, 9

-

-Rowardennan, 53

-

-

-St. Bride’s Chapel, 24

-

-Schiehallion, 39

-

-Scott, Sir Walter, 5, 6, 7, 14, 15, 25, 35, 36, 45, 48, 56

-

-Sheriffmuir, Battle of, 49

-

-Silver Strand, 44

-

-Stirling, 16-22

-

-Stirling Castle, 18-22

-

-Strathyre, 26

-

-Stronachlachar, 47

-

-

-Tarbet, 55

-

-Trossachs, The, 41-46

-

-Trossachs Hotel, 31, 40

-

-

-Vennachar, Loch, 29

-

-

-_Waverley_, 35

-

-Wolfe, Captain (General), 50

-

-Wordsworths, The, 8, 26, 42, 45, 51, 57

-

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-[Transcriber’s Note: The following changes have been made to this text:

-

-Page 10: Greame changed to Graeme.

-

-Illustration facing page 49: Kathrine changed to Katrine.

-

-Page 63: Glenfruin to Glen Fruin.]

-

-

-

-

-

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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Trossachs, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+Title: The Trossachs
+
+Author: Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+Release Date: April 19, 2018 [EBook #57004]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TROSSACHS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration:
+
+IN THIS SERIES
+
+  ABBOTSFORD
+  CAMBRIDGE
+  CANTERBURY
+  CHANNEL ISLANDS
+  ENGLISH LAKES
+  FIRTH OF CLYDE
+  ISLE OF ARRAN
+  ISLE OF MAN
+  ISLE OF WIGHT
+  KILLARNEY
+  LONDON
+  OXFORD
+  PEAK COUNTRY
+  STRATFORD-ON-AVON
+      Leamington and Warwick
+  THAMES
+  TROSSACHS
+  NORTH WALES
+  WESSEX
+  WESTMINSTER ABBEY
+  WINDSOR AND ETON]
+
+    PUBLISHED BY
+ADAM & CHARLES BLACK
+  SOHO SQ., LONDON
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration:
+
+     Beautiful Britain
+
+       The Trossachs
+
+            By
+
+       G. E. Mitton
+
+
+London Adam & Charles Black
+
+       Soho Square W
+           1911]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                             PAGE
+
+  I. “THE LADY OF THE LAKE”                                            5
+
+ II. THE ROYAL CITY OF STIRLING                                       16
+
+III. BY THE ROUTE OF THE FIERY CROSS TO BALQUHIDDER 23
+
+ IV. APPROACHES TO THE TROSSACHS                                      29
+
+  V. THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS                                       41
+
+ VI. LOMOND AND THE MACGREGORS                                        52
+
+     INDEX                                                            63
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+ 1. BIRCHES BY LOCH ACHRAY                                 _Frontispiece_
+
+                                                             FACING PAGE
+
+ 2. BENEATH THE CRAGS OF BEN VENUE                                     9
+
+ 3. STIRLING CASTLE FROM THE KING’S KNOT                              16
+
+ 4. LOCH VENNACHAR                                                    25
+
+ 5. LOCH LUBNAIG                                                      27
+
+ 6. BRIG O’ TURK AND BEN VENUE                                        30
+
+ 7. IN THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS                                     32
+
+ 8. THE SILVER STRAND                                                 43
+
+ 9. LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN’S ISLE                                     46
+
+10. BEN A’AN, SEEN FROM LOCH KATRINE                                  49
+
+11. HEAD OF LOCH LOMOND                                               56
+
+12. SILVER BIRCHES IN THE TROSSACHS                        _On the cover_
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+“THE LADY OF THE LAKE”
+
+
+The charm that lies in a mysterious name has been amply exemplified
+in that of the Trossachs, which is said to mean “bristled territory.”
+Something in the shaggy uncouthness of the word fits so well with
+the land of romance and mountain scenery that it has drawn tens of
+thousands to make the round between Glasgow and Edinburgh, by rail
+and coach and steamer, who, if the name had not been so mysteriously
+attractive, might never have bestirred themselves at all. Since the
+publication of _Rob Roy_ and _The Lady of the Lake_ the principal
+actors in these dramas have been just as real and important to the
+imaginative tourist as the familiar names of history. It is nothing
+to them that Rob Roy, of the clan of Macgregor, was merely a Highland
+thief: his character, invested by Scott with the charm of a magician’s
+pen, has made him as heroic as the great Wallace himself; while Ellen,
+the Lady of the Lake, wholly born of the poet’s imagination, has become
+only second to Mary Queen of Scots.
+
+Scott has certainly done much for the land of his birth: not only
+has he enriched its literature for all time, and raised its literary
+standing in the eyes of nations, but he has done more for it
+commercially than almost any other writer has ever done for any country
+in bringing to it streams of visitors, especially from across the
+Atlantic. The gold flowing from the coffers of the Sassenach into the
+pouches of the Gael is a perennial blessing which could hardly have
+been secured in any other way.
+
+[Sidenote: “The Lady of the Lake”]
+
+We are told that on the appearance of _The Lady of the Lake_, “the
+whole country rang with the praises of the poet; crowds set off to view
+the scenery of Loch Katrine, till then comparatively unknown; and as
+the book came out just before the season for excursions, every house
+and inn in that neighbourhood was crammed with a constant succession of
+visitors. From the date of the publication of _The Lady of the Lake_,
+the post-horse duty in Scotland rose in an extraordinary degree, and
+it continued to do so for a number of years, the author’s succeeding
+works keeping up the enthusiasm for our scenery which he had originally
+created.”
+
+There are fairer spots in Scotland than the Trossachs, beautiful as
+they are; yet, notwithstanding this, their popularity remains unabated.
+The trip certainly has the advantage of being accessible; it can be
+“done” in a day from either Edinburgh or Glasgow, and this is a great
+recommendation to those who are going on to “do” Europe in record time.
+Then, again, anyone who has seen Edinburgh and the Trossachs is fairly
+safe in saying he has seen Scotland, whereas one of wider range, who
+had, say, gone up the Highland Railway to Inverness and returned via
+the Caledonian Canal, if unmindful of the Trossachs, would be taunted
+with his omission every time the subject was mentioned.
+
+However, the greatly increased facilities of steamer and rail do
+doubtless tend to send people farther afield, and the much longer round
+via the Caledonian Canal can count its hundreds where it previously
+counted units.
+
+Until Scott’s time the Trossachs were little known, but then the cult
+of scenery-worship as we know it had not been evolved. That they were
+somewhat known is shown in Dorothy Wordsworth’s _Journal_.
+
+When William Wordsworth, with his sister and the poet Coleridge, made a
+tour in 1803, they were met at Loch Katrine (coming from Loch Lomond)
+with stares of amusement from the peasants. “There were no boats,”
+says Dorothy in her _Journal_, “and no lodging nearer than Callander,
+ten miles beyond the foot of the lake. A laugh was on every face when
+William said we were come to see the Trossachs; no doubt they thought
+we had better have stayed at our own homes. William endeavoured to make
+it appear not so very foolish by informing them that it was a place
+much celebrated in England, though perhaps little thought of by them.”
+This was six years before the publication of the great poem.
+
+The Trossachs proper are the irregularly-shaped hills and rocks,
+covered with a thick growth of bristling firs, that lie between Loch
+Katrine and Loch Vennachar, and along the shores of little Loch Achray.
+But the name is generally taken to mean the whole round, including
+the traversing of Loch Lomond, as well as Loch Katrine, and the road
+journey.
+
+[Illustration: “BENEATH THE CRAGS OF BEN VENUE.”
+
+The precipitous ascents from the south-east corner of Loch Katrine.]
+
+Much the most usual route is from either Glasgow or Edinburgh, via
+Callander; but a secondary one, which has great attraction for some
+people, is that by Aberfoyle, which cuts into the heart of the
+Trossachs from the south. This has the disadvantage of missing Loch
+Vennachar; but, truth to tell, the coach drive along by Loch Vennachar
+is not beautiful, and were it not illumined by romantic imagination,
+and regarded as a prelude or epilogue to something better, it could
+easily be dispensed with.
+
+The outline of the story of _The Lady of the Lake_ is supposed to be
+known to everyone, but there are few who could give it off-hand. The
+principal character, and the only one not fictitious, is that of James
+V. of Scotland, and his habit of wandering incognito among his people
+is used to further the plot. The poem opens with a stag-hunt, when the
+fine animal, after leading his pursuers a tremendous dance, plunges
+into the Trossachs and disappears from view. Only one horseman has been
+able to follow up the chase, and his steed at this juncture drops down
+dead, leaving his master to scramble onward to Loch Katrine as best he
+can. This he does, and as he stands on the shore he sees a boat rowed
+by a young girl rapidly approaching, coming out from a little island.
+She tells him he is expected—in fact, his visit has been foretold by a
+soothsayer, Allan Bane—and asks him to come to the island and receive
+the hospitality of her father’s house. She is Ellen, daughter to one of
+the outlawed Douglases, who have been in arms against their King.
+
+The girl’s mother receives the stranger courteously on his arrival,
+and he announces himself as James Fitz-James. He remains with them
+that night, and leaves next morning before the return of Douglas with
+Ellen’s young lover, Malcolm Graeme, and a powerful rebel, Roderick
+Dhu, the head of Clan MacAlpine, the Macgregors.
+
+    An outlawed desperate man,
+    The chief of a rebellious clan.
+
+This man tries to gain Ellen’s hand as the price of his support of her
+father, but his suit is unsuccessful.
+
+[Sidenote: The Fiery Cross]
+
+The next day, determined on a wild rising against the King, who is
+known to be at Stirling with his Court, Roderick sends the fiery cross
+round to summon his followers to Lanrick Mead. The cross is made by the
+priest—
+
+    A cubit’s length in measure due,
+    The shaft and limbs were rods of yew.
+
+This was dipped in the blood of a slaughtered goat and scathed with
+flame. Then the priest shook it on high, shouting:
+
+    “Woe to the wretch who fails to rear
+    At this dread sign the ready spear!
+    For, as the flames this symbol sear,
+    His home, the refuge of his fear,
+    A kindred fate shall know.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    Sunk be his home in embers red!
+    And cursed be the meanest shed
+    That e’er shall hide the houseless head.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    Burst be the ear that fails to heed!
+    Palsied the foot that shuns to speed!
+    May ravens tear the careless eyes,
+    Wolves make the coward heart their prize.”
+
+Roderick’s servant, Malise, seizing the cross, starts off through the
+Trossachs, and along Loch Achray to Duncraggan, where he hands the
+symbol on to “Angus, heir of Duncan’s line,” who carries it along
+Vennachar and up to the pass of Leny, passing it on to a bridegroom on
+Loch Lubnaig, and so it follows round all the haunts of the clan.
+
+Ellen and her father meantime retreat to a cave on Ben Venue. Here
+she accidentally meets again the fascinating stranger, who tries to
+persuade her to elope with him; but she tells him of her love for young
+Malcolm, and he honourably refrains from pressing his suit; instead
+he gives her a ring which, he says, was given him by the King, with a
+promise that on its production the King would fulfil any request of
+the wearer. Meantime he is being watched by Roderick Dhu as a spy, and
+Roderick sends a so-called guide to conduct him out of the labyrinth;
+but the guide is one of the clan Murdoch, who has secret orders to kill
+the stranger so soon as he gets him alone. The seer has proclaimed that
+whichever side first kills one of the other will win in the trial of
+strength now about to begin, and when Roderick hears this he rejoices
+to think that by treachery the lot will fall to him.
+
+Fitz-James, however, is warned by a half-witted woman wandering in the
+wood, and when he discloses his suspicions he is shot at by Murdoch,
+who, however, misses him and kills the woman instead. Fitz-James,
+furious at this barbarity, promptly kills him, and, cutting off a tress
+of the dying woman’s hair, swears to kill the chief, Roderick Dhu, the
+author of this foul deed, whenever he shall meet him. He wanders on in
+the wilderness of trees and rocks, and, as night is coming on, he loses
+himself.
+
+    Famished and chilled, through ways unknown,
+    Tangled and steep, he journeyed on;
+    Till, as a rock’s huge point he turned,
+    A watch-fire close before him burned.
+
+[Sidenote: The Fight]
+
+Beside it is a huge Highlander, who is at first churlish and inclined
+to resent the intrusion; but the inbred virtue of hospitality conquers,
+and he allows the stranger to share his camp, promising to see him
+safe as far as Coilantogle Ford next morning. However, in the morning
+the two quarrel, and the great Highlander is revealed as Roderick
+Dhu himself. Roderick is furious at hearing of the death of Murdoch,
+but would have kept his word and given his guest safe-conduct had
+not Fitz-James, burning to be at him, absolved him from it, and they
+fight close by the ford. Just as Roderick is about to stab his foe
+mortally he himself sinks down, overcome with loss of blood, and some
+men-at-arms from Stirling ride up, greeting Fitz-James as the King.
+They carry the senseless body of Roderick back with them to Stirling.
+
+When the King is once again in his own fortress games and sports take
+place, and Ellen’s father, who has dared to attend them incognito,
+reveals himself in a burst of temper and is captured.
+
+Ellen now makes her way to Stirling, carrying the ring, which proves
+an Open Sesame, and discovers to her astonishment the “knight in
+Lincoln green” who wooed her in the forest is no other than the monarch
+himself. James keeps his word, forgives her father, and pledges her to
+young Malcolm. Roderick, whose crimes would have made him difficult to
+pardon, conveniently dies, and the story finishes happily.
+
+[Sidenote: Scott in the Trossachs]
+
+Scott was very particular that the scenery of his plot should be
+correct, and visited the Trossachs carefully, and even rode from Loch
+Vennachar to Stirling, to make sure of the possibility of the feat he
+attributed to Fitz-James. In view of the warlike nature of the poem,
+Lockhart remarks it was rather an odd coincidence that the first time
+Scott entered the Trossachs he did so “riding in all the dignity of
+danger, with a front and rear guard and loaded arms, to enforce the
+execution of a legal instrument against some Maclarens, refractory
+tenants of Stewart of Appin.”
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE ROYAL CITY OF STIRLING
+
+
+As a good deal of the scene of the poem is laid at Stirling, and as
+most people will take the opportunity of breaking their journey at so
+classic a town, a few pages must be devoted to it.
+
+[Illustration: STIRLING CASTLE, FROM THE KING’S KNOT.
+
+In 1304 the Castle was taken by the English after a three month’s
+siege, and held by them until the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314.]
+
+[Sidenote: The “Round Table”]
+
+The rock on which the castle of Stirling stands is a most remarkable
+object in the landscape, jutting out with the precipitousness of a
+sea-cliff from the plain. It is absolutely inaccessible on the one
+side, but slopes away on the other, and it is on these slopes that the
+town stands. Many a visitor has grumbled at the long pull up through
+the narrow, and in some places squalid, streets before reaching the
+castle; but the reward is great, for the view is far-reaching. It
+may be best seen, however, from a place called the Ladies’ Rock in
+the churchyard, because there it includes the castle-rock on its
+steepest side. Here, also, there is to be found a plan of all the
+mountains by which they may be identified—Bens Ledi, Lomond, Vane,
+More, and Voirlich; also, down below, is a curious turf-garden, called
+the King’s Knot, said to have been the scene of the mimic games and
+contests of the Court. It was here Scott laid the scene of the games
+described in the poem, and with what redoubled interest can the
+account be read, when, having seen the place, memory can conjure up
+a mind-picture of it! This odd terracing is mentioned by Barbour, in
+describing the flight of Edward II. after Bannockburn, as the Round
+Table. It is within the bounds of possibility that it existed in the
+days of King Arthur, for centuries before Arthur’s time Stirling was
+a Roman station, and the King in his day is known to have been in the
+neighbourhood.
+
+The history of Stirling reaches back beyond all records. Long before
+Edinburgh had attained its position as capital of the kingdom, while
+it was still but a Border fortress, liable to be taken and retaken as
+English or Scots extended their territory, Stirling was one of the
+strongholds of the country. From time immemorial some fortress had
+stood on this impregnable position. In 1124 Alexander I. died here, so
+that it must then have been a fortress-palace, and in 1304 the castle
+held out for three months against Edward I. of England. After it was
+taken it remained in the possession of England until the Battle of
+Bannockburn, and Bannockburn lies only about three miles from Stirling.
+Even the supine Edward II. wended his way so far north with the object
+of retaining such a desirable place. James III. was born here, and
+probably James IV. also, while James V., the hero of _The Lady of the
+Lake_, was crowned in the parish church as a toddling child of two. His
+much-discussed daughter, Queen Mary, passed the years of her childhood
+at the castle. Her little son James, who was destined to unite the two
+kingdoms, was baptized at the castle with tremendous ceremony, while
+his father, Darnley, sulked apart, and refused to take his proper
+position. Here James VI. and I. spent mainly the first thirteen years
+of his life, under the tutelage of the scholar George Buchanan, and it
+was only when he became King of England that Stirling ceased to be a
+royal residence.
+
+Of the origin of the name Stirling there is no certain record. In
+old records it is spelt Stryveling, Strivilin, and so on, through
+various minor alterations, wherefore it has sometimes been held to mean
+“strife,” a most appropriate signification. It used occasionally to be
+referred to also as Snowdon, a fact mentioned in Scott’s poem:
+
+                  For Stirling’s Tower
+    Of yore the name of Snowdon claims.
+
+[Sidenote: The Wandering King]
+
+By far the most striking part of the castle is the palace, which was
+begun by James IV. and finished by James V. This is in the form of a
+square, and is decidedly French in character, a fact attributed to
+the influence of his wife, Mary of Guise. Strange life-size figures
+project beneath arcades, and the carving is in some cases most weird
+and grotesque. James V. was very much associated with the castle. He
+was fond of assuming disguises and wandering about incognito among his
+people; for this purpose he sometimes took the name of the “Gudeman of
+Ballengeich,” Ballengeich being a road running below the castle walls.
+The songs “The Gaberlunzie Man” and “We’ll gang nae mair a-rovin” are
+said to have been founded on his exploits. He was renowned for his
+success with the fair sex, and altogether the rôle given to him by
+Scott fits him admirably.
+
+The castle is now occupied by a garrison, and the picturesque Highland
+dress of the men adds much as a foreground to the grey walls of the
+old buildings. An awkward squad may frequently be seen drilling in the
+courtyard, unkindly exposed to the eyes of passing visitors. In this
+square is the Parliament House, built by James III., and this is where
+the last Parliament in Scotland held its sittings.
+
+[Sidenote: The Douglas Room]
+
+The Douglas Room, reached by a narrow passage, will, however, claim
+most attention from those to whom history is a living thing. It was
+here that James II. stabbed the Earl of Douglas in 1452. The Douglases
+had so grown in power and influence, that it had begun to be a question
+whether Stuarts or Douglases should reign in Scotland. The King was
+afraid of the power of his mighty rivals, and accordingly invited
+the Douglas, the eighth Earl, to come as his guest to the castle for
+a conference. The Douglas came without misgiving, though it is said
+he demanded, and received, a safe-conduct. It was about the middle
+of January, and no doubt huge log fires warmed the inclement air in
+the great draughty halls where the party dined and supped with much
+appearance of cordiality and goodwill, but beneath lay hate and terror
+and rancour, bitter as the grave.
+
+After supper the King drew Douglas aside to an inner chamber, and tried
+to persuade him to break away from the allies which threatened, with
+his house, to form a combination disastrous to the security of the
+throne. The Earl refused, and high words began to fly from one to the
+other. The King demanded that Douglas should break from his allies, and
+the Earl replied again he would not. “Then this shall!” cried the King,
+twice stabbing his guest with his own royal hand. Sir Patrick Grey, who
+was near by, came up and finished the job with a pole-axe, and then the
+body was thrown over into the court below. It was a gross violation of
+every law of decency even in those lawless days, and well the King must
+have known the storm his action would arouse. Burton, the historian of
+Scotland, adduces this as evidence that the crime was not meditated,
+but done in a mere fit of ungovernable rage. The murdered man’s four
+brothers surrounded and besieged the castle, and nailing to a cross
+in contempt the safe-conduct the King had given, trailed it through
+the miry streets tied to the tail of the wretchedest horse they could
+find, thus publishing the ignominy of their Sovereign. They burnt and
+destroyed wherever they could, and the King had many years of strenuous
+warfare before him as a result of that night’s work.
+
+From the castle battlements the “bonny links of Forth” can be seen
+winding and looping and doubling on themselves, and also the old
+bridge, which was the key to the Highlands and the only dry passage
+across the Forth for centuries. This bridge is even older than any
+existing part of the castle. It has seen many desperate skirmishes,
+most notable of which was that of 1715, when the Duke of Argyll, with
+only 1,500 men, held here in check thousands of Highlanders. Here we
+must leave Stirling, without noting the rest of the old buildings, as
+this is no guide-book, and the city is merely looked upon as the key to
+the Trossachs and the scene of some of the drama enacted in _The Lady
+of the Lake_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+BY THE ROUTE OF THE FIERY CROSS TO BALQUHIDDER
+
+
+Few indeed of those who come up comfortably by rail to Callander,
+and step at once to a seat on a waiting four-horsed coach, adorned
+by a scarlet-coated driver and tootling horn, ever think of arriving
+a day sooner and exploring northward along the continuation of the
+single line which has brought them so far, or, better still, of going
+on northward by road through the Pass of Leny to beautiful little
+Strathyre for the night. Yet they miss much by not doing so, for at
+Balquhidder, a little beyond Strathyre, is the grave of Rob Roy and the
+reputed graves of his wife and son, while up the Pass of Leny itself
+was carried the fiery cross, so that the story of _The Lady of the
+Lake_ is hardly complete without a visit to it.
+
+Few more beautiful passes are to be seen than Leny. The dashing stream
+which runs in a wooded cleft below the road is exactly what one expects
+a Scottish stream to be. The brown peat-water breaks in cascades
+over huge grey weather-worn stones, or lies in deep clear pools. The
+irregularities of its course reveal new beauties at every turn: the
+dripping green ferns, for ever sprinkled with the spray, hang quivering
+over the agate depths, and the emerald moss, saturated like a sponge,
+softens the sharp angles of stones. Tufts of free-growing heather,
+large as bushes, add colour to the scene, and the slender white stems
+of the birches rise gracefully amid the gnarled alders and dark-needled
+firs. The Falls of Leny are reached by a footpath from the road.
+
+Angus, carrying the cross, was confronted by the stream, which divided
+him from the chapel of St. Bride, whose site is now marked by a small
+graveyard just where the water issues from Loch Lubnaig. He had to
+plunge in, panting and hot as he was.
+
+    He stumbled twice—the foam splashed high,
+    With hoarser swell the stream raced by.
+
+Then, gaining the shore, he faced the chapel entrance just as a gay
+crowd came forth escorting a newly-wedded pair.
+
+[Illustration: LOCH VENNACHAR.
+
+Here was Coilantogle Ford where King James V. fought Roderick Dhu.]
+
+    In rude but glad procession came
+    Bonneted sire and coif-clad dame;
+    And plaided youth with jest and jeer,
+    Which snooded maiden would not hear.
+
+[Sidenote: The Bridegroom’s Part]
+
+Scott does not tell us why the dripping youth selected the bridegroom
+out of all the crowd to carry on the brand, but doubtless there were
+reasons: it was possibly his right as a senior in the clan. Still, it
+is little wonder that the unfortunate man, who dared not refuse, yet
+hesitated.
+
+    Yet slow he laid his plaid aside
+    And, lingering, eyed his lovely bride
+    Until he saw the starting tear
+    Speak woe he might not stop to cheer;
+    Then trusting not a second look,
+    In haste he sped him up the brook.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    Mingled with love’s impatience came
+    The manly thirst for martial fame.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    Stung by such thoughts, o’er bank and brae
+    Like fire from flint he glanced away.
+
+The railway crosses the stream about this point, and continues up the
+west side of the loch, while the road keeps on the right, or eastern,
+side. The rail passes Laggan Farm, said to be the birthplace of Rob’s
+Amazonian wife, Helen, who takes a part only second to himself in the
+reader’s imagination. Passing along, therefore, on either side we come,
+soon after the head of the loch, to bonny little Strathyre, lying amid
+its great hills, which are flushed as if with fire when the setting sun
+catches the sweep of the heather in season.
+
+Only a few miles beyond Strathyre is Balquhidder, lying on the road
+to Loch Voil. The loch lies in a very beautiful situation at the foot
+of the range known as the Braes of Balquhidder, culminating in Ben
+A’an and Ben More. It is on the property of Mr. Carnegie, whose house,
+Stronvar, is at the east side. In the adventurous journey made by the
+Wordsworths in the beginning of the nineteenth century, they actually
+walked over the mountains to Balquhidder from Loch Katrine by a wild,
+rough track, and at the foot of the hills waded through the river.
+Dorothy thus describes the scenery: “The mountains all round are very
+high; the vale pastoral and unenclosed, not many dwellings and but a
+few trees; the mountains in general smooth near the bottom. They are in
+large unbroken masses, combining with the vale to give an impression
+of bold simplicity.”
+
+[Illustration: LOCH LUBNAIG.
+
+It was at the end of this loch that Angus handed the Fiery Cross to the
+Bridegroom.]
+
+There were a few reapers in the fields, and it was from this fact that
+Wordsworth was inspired to write his poem _The Solitary Reaper_. The
+brother and sister visited the graves at Balquhidder before passing on
+to Callander.
+
+It is said that when the freebooter Rob Roy lay dying in his own
+house at Balquhidder, his wife mocked at his repentance. He rebuked
+her, saying: “You have put strife betwixt me and the best men of the
+country, and now you would place enmity between me and my God.”
+
+[Sidenote: Rob Roy’s Grave]
+
+The grave of Rob Roy is in the little old graveyard, and is only a
+few feet from the gate. There are rude sculptured figures on the
+flat stone, seemingly far older than the days of the freebooter, but
+possibly an old stone was used to mark the place where he at length
+rested after his roving life. This is not the only association that
+Balquhidder evokes, for it is mentioned in _The Legend of Montrose_,
+when the Clan Macgregor there agree to stand by the murderers of
+the King’s deer-keeper; and also in more modern fiction, when,
+in Stevenson’s _Kidnapped_, poor David breaks down utterly at
+Balquhidder, and has to be guarded and cared for by his quaint comrade,
+Alan Breck.
+
+But, tempting as it is to wander farther up the glen, here we must
+stop, or we shall get too far from our legitimate route through the
+Trossachs.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+APPROACHES TO THE TROSSACHS
+
+
+The route taken by the coaches leaves Callander in a northward
+direction, but soon turns off westward down a narrow muddy road
+forbidden to motor-cars; this runs beneath the shoulder of Ben Ledi.
+
+Ben Ledi means the Mount of God, and is believed to have been held
+sacred from the days when the Beltane mysteries were celebrated on it.
+Beltane was a Celtic festival celebrated about May 1 with fires and
+dances, and probably with sacrifices too. The scenery, however, is not
+as awe-inspiring as these weird memories would lead one to expect—in
+fact, for all this first part of the Trossachs’ round the traveller’s
+imagination must supply all the fire he needs. For instance, the very
+prosaic sluices erected by the Glasgow Water Company at the end of Loch
+Vennachar, which soon comes into view, mark the site of Coilantogle
+Ford, across which Roderick promised the King a safe-conduct, and where
+the two fought with such fury when the outlaw revealed himself.
+
+    The chief in silence strode before,
+    And reach’d that torrent’s sounding shore
+    Which, daughter of three mighty lakes,
+    From Vennachar in silver breaks.
+
+The road passes all along the shores of Loch Vennachar, and where at
+the end there lies a meadow, embraced on the far side by the Finlas
+Water, we are at another classic spot, for this is Lanrick Mead, the
+meeting-place of the Macgregor clansmen. We can see very well why
+it should have been chosen, for it guards at its narrowest part the
+pass, and anyone approaching from the Callander—_i.e._, the Doune
+or Stirling direction—would be easily stopped, though it would be
+possible for men to come along the south side of Lochs Vennachar
+and Achray. The mead also commands the approach from the south via
+Aberfoyle, and any body of men coming down the hill on this side would
+be full in view. After this we arrive at the Brig o’ Turk, a small
+bridge over the Finlas Water. It was close by here, at a few huts
+marking Duncraggan, that Malise delivered up the cross to Angus. But
+he had done his work well.
+
+    The fisherman forsook the strand,
+    The swarthy smith took dirk and brand;
+    With changèd cheer the mower blithe
+    Left in the half-cut swathe the scythe;
+    The herds without a keeper stray’d,
+    The plough was in mid-furrow staid,
+    The falc’ner tossed his hawk away,
+    The hunter left the stag at bay;
+    Prompt at the signal of alarms,
+    Each son of Alpine rush’d to arms.
+
+[Illustration: BRIG O’ TURK AND BEN VENUE.
+
+In the great stag hunt, with which Scott’s poem opens, it was at this
+point that “the headmost horseman rode alone.”]
+
+We are now right in the Trossachs proper, and find the huge, palatial
+hotel which goes by that name facing little Loch Achray.
+
+Having arrived at the junction of the roads—that is, the two principal
+approaches already noted—it is necessary to run over the ground from
+Aberfoyle before continuing the part through the Trossachs common to
+both routes.
+
+[Sidenote: Aberfoyle]
+
+Aberfoyle itself is full of associations, but they are nearly all
+connected with _Rob Roy_. It stands as a meeting-place of Highlands and
+Lowlands, and as such has seen many storms. The earlier part of the
+Forth, here known as the Laggan, runs past the town, and the old saying
+“Forth bridles the wild Highlandman” is full of significance. Of this
+district says Mr. Cunninghame Graham: “Nearly every hill and strath has
+had its battles between the Grahames and the Macgregors. Highlander
+and Lowlander fought in the lonely glens or on the stony hills, or
+drank together in the aqua-vitæ houses in the times of their precarious
+peace.”
+
+Far the most interesting scene laid at Aberfoyle, in all the realism
+of fiction, is that in _Rob Roy_, when Bailie Nicol Jarvie, and young
+Osbaldistone arrived, wearied out, seeking shelter at the primitive
+Clachan, and were refused because “three Hieland shentlemens” wanted
+the place to themselves. The landlady said her house was taken up “wi’
+them wadna like to be intruded on wi’ strangers,” an objection for
+which there was probably strong underlying reason!
+
+The row that subsequently took place when the stout little Bailie
+defended himself with the red-hot coulter of a plough is too well known
+to need quotation. Suffice it to say, in evidence of the truth of the
+story, that a coulter, traditionally said to be the very weapon, hangs
+on a tree outside the hotel, which bears his name, to this very day.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS.]
+
+[Sidenote: The Pass of Aberfoyle]
+
+The pass which leads by Lochs Ard and Chon north-westward to
+Stronachlachar has been much used at all times, and has seen desperate
+forays, but none perhaps more desperate than that described in _Rob
+Roy_ when the Bailie and Osbaldistone, unwillingly setting forth up it
+with an escort of soldiery, were attacked from the heights above by
+the redoubtable Helen Macgregor and her men, and very narrowly escaped
+death. Scott thus describes the pass:
+
+“Our route, though leading toward the lake, had hitherto been so much
+shaded by wood that we only from time to time obtained a glimpse of
+that beautiful sheet of water. But the road now suddenly emerged from
+the forest ground, and, winding close by the margin of the loch,
+afforded us a full view of its spacious mirror, which now, the breeze
+having totally subsided, reflected in still magnificence the high dark
+heathy mountains, huge grey rocks and shaggy banks, by which it is
+encircled. The hills now sank on its margin so closely, and were so
+broken and precipitous, as to afford no passage except just upon the
+narrow line of the track which we occupied and which was overhung with
+rocks, from which we might have been destroyed merely by rolling down
+stones, without much possibility of offering resistance. Add to this
+that as the road winded round every promontory and bay which indented
+the lake, there was rarely a possibility of seeing a hundred yards
+before us.”
+
+It was when the party had reached a spot where the path rose in zigzags
+and made its slippery way across the face of a steep slaty cliff that
+they suddenly discovered they were in an ambuscade under the command
+of Helen Macgregor herself. The desperate fight that followed, all in
+favour of the outlaws who commanded the situation; the ludicrous plight
+of the fat little Bailie, who, caught by the back of the coat on a
+projecting thorn-bush, swung in mid-air, “where he dangled not unlike
+the sign of the Golden Fleece over the door of a mercer in the Trongate
+of his native city”—are not these things writ in the ever-enduring
+pages of _Rob Roy_? More awful was the doom of Morris the Gauger, or
+Exciseman, who was dragged out, condemned as a spy, and drowned by the
+aid of a large stone bound in a plaid about his neck. “Half naked and
+thus manacled, they hurled him into the lake, there about twelve feet
+deep, with a loud halloo of vindictive triumph, above which, however,
+his last death shriek, the yell of mortal agony, was distinctly heard.”
+
+The lake thus woven into the tale is supposed to be Loch Ard. The Falls
+of Ledard, at the north-western end, are the falls described by Scott
+in _Waverley_, as he himself has owned, though it must be confessed in
+so doing he lifted them from their setting. Flora MacIvor’s song—
+
+    There is mist on the mountain and night on the vale,
+    But more dark is the sleep of the sons of the Gael
+
+—is descriptive of this scenery.
+
+[Sidenote: “Rebels and Mossers”]
+
+But the Pass of Aberfoyle has scenes of real history to tell as well as
+those of fiction. General Monk led his men through it after addressing
+a letter to the Earl of Airth, desiring him to have the woods in
+certain districts of Aberfoyle cut down, because they were “grete
+shelters to the rebels and mossers.”
+
+In the pass, also, the Earl of Glencairn and Graham of Duchray defeated
+some of the Cromwellian soldiers, and, adds Mr. Cunninghame Graham in
+recounting the incident, “Graham of Duchray no doubt fought all the
+better because the Cromwellians had burnt his house the night before
+the action, in order to show him that it was unwise to attach too much
+importance to mere houses built with hands.”
+
+Aberfoyle is supposed to be peculiarly haunted by the “little
+folk”—_i.e._, the fairies—a reputation it gained from a
+seventeenth-century minister, who was supposed to be in league with
+them. He is frequently mentioned by Scott, and the fairy knowe,
+opposite the hotel, on which he sank down dead, called back to the
+fairyland he loved so well, is still pointed out. He,
+
+    When the roaring Garry ran
+      Red with the life-blood of Dundee,
+    When coats were turning, crowns were falling,
+      Wandered along his valley still,
+    And heard their mystic voices calling
+      From fairy knowe and haunted hill.
+
+[Sidenote: Lake of Menteith]
+
+Not less interesting than the west side is the country lying east of
+Aberfoyle, where, at about an equal distance, is the lake of Menteith.
+As significant of the wildness of the place in bygone days, we may
+note that one Earl of Menteith declared war against “all but the kinge
+and those of the name of Grahame.” Menteith was from earliest times one
+of the five great districts into which Scotland was divided. The Earls
+of Menteith (Grahams) were ever at feud with the warlike Macgregors,
+and, as often happens, the feuds raged worst just on the borders of the
+Highlands, where men might attack and retreat in safety, knowing every
+track which led into their wild fastnesses.
+
+The lake of Menteith is about two miles by one, and it is curious to
+note this is the only _lake_ in Scotland. On it is an island, where
+the Earls had their residence. Another island, called Inchmahone, is,
+however, more interesting still. The word means “Isle of Rest,” and
+such it was found by the monks who lived here in ages long gone past.
+Ruins are left, a moulded doorway, a fine monument, to tell of their
+occupation, but “gone are the Augustinian monks who built the stately
+island church. Out of the ruined chancel grows a plane-tree, which is
+almost ripe. In the branches rooks have built their nests, and make as
+cheerful matins as perhaps the monks themselves. The giant chestnuts,
+grown, as tradition says, from chestnuts brought from Rome, are all
+stag-headed. Ospreys used to build in them in the memory of those still
+living. Gone are the ‘Riders of Menteith’ (if they ever existed); the
+ruggers and the reivers are at one with those they harried. The Grahams
+and Macgregors, the spearmen and the jackmen, the hunters and the
+hawkers, the livers by their spurs, the luckless Earls of Menteith and
+their retainers, are buried and forgotten, and the tourist cracks his
+biscuit and his jest over their tombs” (Cunninghame Graham).
+
+The “Riders of Menteith” are spoken of in history, but whether, as Mr.
+Graham asks, they were mortal riders or a sort of _Walküren_, sacred to
+the Valhalla of the district, history does not enlighten us.
+
+[Sidenote: The Four Maries]
+
+Queen Mary, as a little girl of five, was brought to the island of
+Inchmahone after the Battle of Pinkie, and lived here for a whole year,
+until she went to France to be betrothed to the Dauphin. Her childish
+dreams beneath the great chestnuts can have contained no shadow of the
+stormy life and fearful end that awaited her. She was even at that time
+accompanied by the “four Maries” who attended on her, one of whom,
+Mary Hamilton, met the tragic fate of execution.
+
+    Last nicht there were four Maries,
+      This nicht there’ll be but three:
+    There was Mary Beaton and Mary Seaton,
+      And Mary Carmichael and me.
+
+The road from Aberfoyle to the Trossachs rises very steeply past some
+slate-quarries. As we rise the hills come into view—Ben Ledi and Ben
+Venue, with Ben Lomond dominating all the landscape; Ben Voil peeping
+over Ben Lawers; and on the clearest days, far in the distance, Ben
+Nevis, Schiehallion, and many others. Far below to the right lies Loch
+Drunkie, and much nearer the desolate little tarn called Loch Reoichte,
+which signifies “frozen,” and this among them all for desolate beauty
+stands first. Close by the road is a drinking-fountain, called “Rob
+Roy’s Well,” where the tourist is invited to slake his thirst, though
+the real well, to which the tradition attaches, is away from the road,
+above the slate-quarries on Craig Vadh. On the ridge of this same Craig
+Vadh, by the way, are curious cairns, covering the spot where the
+bodies of those slain in a Border foray were found. When the road at
+length descends we have the pleasing duty of paying an impost, or toll,
+for the use of it—and by no means a low one either—and thus we come
+to Loch Achray and the Trossachs Hotel, and pick up the thread where it
+was dropped.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS
+
+
+As we have heard the Trossachs signifies “bristled territory,” a
+suitable name enough, and as they have been described by the master
+himself, there would be little use in trying to improve upon his words,
+which are as follows:
+
+    With boughs that quaked at every breath,
+    Grey birch and aspen wept beneath;
+    Aloft, the ash and warrior oak
+    Cast anchor in the rifted rock;
+    And, higher yet, the pine-tree hung
+    His shattered trunk, and frequent flung,
+    Where seem’d the cliffs to meet on high,
+    His boughs athwart the narrow’d sky.
+    Highest of all where white peaks glanced,
+    Where glistening streamers waved and danced,
+    The wanderer’s eye could barely view
+    The summer heaven’s delicious blue;
+    So wondrous wild, the whole might seem
+    The scenery of a fairy dream.
+
+[Sidenote: Dorothy Wordsworth]
+
+It must be remembered that the beautiful even road which now runs
+through the heart of this fairyland was a work of great difficulty
+and cost. It has been hewn out of the side of the rock, and built up
+by the side of the loch in order to facilitate the constant stream of
+tourists. At first there were several wild pathways leading down to
+Loch Katrine through a perfect wilderness of boughs and undergrowth,
+and at the end a precipitous drop over the edge of a steep crag, only
+scaled by the aid of a sort of natural ladder of saplings and tendrils,
+and it is thus that Scott makes Fitz-James approach the loch. In the
+beginning of the nineteenth century, however, when Dorothy Wordsworth
+and her brother reached the Trossachs from Loch Katrine, a great
+improvement had taken place. When nearing the end of the lake, she
+says, they came in sight of two huts, which had been built by Lady
+Perth as a shelter for visitors. “The huts stand at a small distance
+from each other, on a high and perpendicular rock, that rises from the
+bed of the lake. A road, which has a very wild appearance, has been
+cut through the rock; yet even here, among these bold precipices, the
+feeling of excessive beautifulness overcomes every other.”
+
+[Illustration: THE SILVER STRAND, LOCH KATRINE.
+
+Where Scott describes the meeting between Fitz-James and Ellen of the
+Isle.]
+
+In her there was already that new appreciation of the natural
+beauty which her brother was to do so much to encourage in all. Her
+description of the Trossachs, after they had landed, clearly shows
+this: “Above and below us, to the right and to the left, were rocks,
+knolls, and hills, which, whenever anything could grow—and that was
+everywhere between the rocks—were covered with trees and heather. The
+trees did not in any place grow so thick as an ordinary wood, yet I
+think there was never a bare space of twenty yards; it was more like a
+natural forest, where the trees grow in groups or singly, not hiding
+the surface of the ground, which, instead of being green and mossy, was
+of the richest purple. The heather was indeed the most luxuriant I ever
+saw; it was so tall that a child of ten years old struggling through
+it would often have been buried head and shoulders, and the exquisite
+beauty of the colour, near or at a distance, seen under the trees is
+not to be conceived.”
+
+And as it was then so it is now: a better description of the peculiar
+scenery of the Trossachs could hardly be given, especially if we add
+the detail that bog-myrtle and birches grow abundantly, adding to the
+fragrance and poetry of the place. Winding round to the right runs
+the road to the Silver Strand, now much covered by the rising of the
+water owing to the precautions taken by the Glasgow Waterworks, which
+gets its supply from Loch Katrine. Here Fitz-James is supposed to
+have stood. Right in front is Ellen’s Isle, thickly wooded; behind it
+rises the vast shoulder of Ben Venue, and away to the right stretches
+westward the full length of the lake, broken by promontories,
+
+    Where, gleaming with the setting sun,
+    One burnish’d sheet of living gold,
+    Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll’d;
+    In all her length far winding lay,
+    With promontory, creek and bay,
+    And islands that, empurpled bright,
+    Floated amid the livelier light;
+    And mountains, that like giants stand,
+    To sentinel enchanted land.
+    High on the south, huge Ben Venue
+    Down to the lake in masses threw
+    Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurl’d,
+    The fragments of an earlier world.
+
+In the whole of a justly celebrated poem there is no passage finer than
+this, and, oft quoted as it has been, it would be impossible to omit
+it.
+
+Ellen’s Isle is, of course, so named after Scott’s heroine; the
+Highland name is Eilean Molach, meaning the “Shaggy Island,” and it is
+quite likely that with this in his mind Scott chose the name Ellen as
+the nearest English-sounding equivalent.
+
+The Goblin’s Cave, to which Ellen and her family retreated, is on the
+side of Ben Venue, and above is the Bealach Nambo, or the Pass of the
+Cattle, which Scott alluded to as:
+
+    The dell upon the mountain’s crest
+    Yawned like a gash on warrior’s breast.
+
+This can be reached on foot by a not too difficult walk, but most
+people prefer to view it from below. The Goblin’s Cave is impossible of
+exact identification, if, indeed, it had any actual prototype.
+
+[Sidenote: Loch Katrine]
+
+It has been suggested that the name of Loch Katrine arose from the
+hordes of robbers, or caterans, who infested its shores. If this be
+so, the name has been softened into something much more appropriate to
+the loveliness of the scenery, which is at its best at the east end.
+The Wordsworth party, indeed, coming from the other end, were at first
+disappointed. As the only means of transit was by a small row-boat,
+Coleridge was afraid of the cold and walked along the northern shore
+from Glengyle, though not, of course, on the well-made-up road which
+runs part of the way at present. Wordsworth himself slept in the bottom
+of the boat, which they had procured with much difficulty, and told his
+sister to awake him if anything worth seeing occurred. It was not until
+they nearly reached the eastern end that she did this, though then she
+confessed that what they saw was “the perfection of loveliness and
+beauty.”
+
+The lake is about eight miles long by three-quarters broad, but the
+actual width varies very much, owing to the numerous indentations.
+The road on the northern shore runs to Glengyle, but there stops, so
+that the only means of getting right on to Loch Lomond is to take the
+steamer, which awaits tourists several times daily. No doubt a road by
+which cyclists could travel on their own account would be strenuously
+resisted in the neighbourhood, where the chief aim and object of
+the tourist’s being is supposed to be to pay for everything. On the
+southern side the steepness of the precipices of Ben Venue prevents any
+possibility of a road.
+
+[Illustration: LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN’S ISLE.]
+
+Opposite to Ben Venue, and best seen from the lake itself, is Ben A’an,
+only 1,750 feet in height. At the north-west end of Loch Katrine is
+Glengyle, the hereditary burial-place of the Macgregors.
+
+The steamer stops at Stronachlachar, about three-quarters of the way
+down the lake on the south side, and here a coach meets it to convey
+passengers across to Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond.
+
+[Sidenote: “Stepping Westward”]
+
+With Loch Katrine the scenes identified with _The Lady of the Lake_
+come to an end. The road to Loch Lomond passes over a wild, rough
+heath, in strong contrast to the wooded loveliness of the eastern end
+of Loch Katrine, but quite as attractive to some natures, especially
+when the soft grey clouds lie low and the russets and browns of the
+bracken and heather replace the rich glory of its purple robe. It
+was hereabouts that the Wordsworths, when returning to Lomond, were
+greeted by two Highland women, who said in a friendly way: “What! you
+are stepping westward”—a simple sentence which gave Wordsworth the
+inspiration for the poem which he wrote long afterwards beginning with
+the same words.
+
+[Sidenote: The Real Rob Roy]
+
+Loch Arklet lies very flat between its shores, and has no beauty except
+its wildness. At one end lived for some time Rob Roy and his wife;
+indeed, all this district, right up to Glen Falloch on the one side,
+and down to the shoulders of Ben Lomond on the other, is associated
+with the outlaw, of whom Scott made a hero. The district has also
+associations with a much greater than he, for it is redolent of the
+wanderings of Robert the Bruce, when he was hunted by his bitter
+enemies, the men of Lorn.
+
+It is supposed that Roderick Dhu in Scott’s poem was a shadowy form
+of Rob Roy, who is more developed in the book which was published
+seven years later. Both were of uncommon personal strength, both were
+cattle-lifters and outlaws, both were of the great clan of Macgregor,
+and there are minor resemblances.
+
+[Illustration: BEN A’AN (Seen from Loch Katrine).]
+
+Rob’s designation was “of Inversnaid,” and he owned Craig Royston, a
+district lying east of Lomond, near the north end. He began as a man
+of property and a land-holder, rough and poor as his territory was.
+He went on to be a cattle-dealer on a large scale, and this turned to
+something more nefarious. A distraint was levied on his property, and
+he had to leave the shores of Lomond. To this fact is attributed the
+wild piper’s tune of “The Lament of Rob Roy,” composed by his wife,
+which has something of the mournful beauty of the country incorporated
+in its weird strains:
+
+    Through the depths of Loch Lomond the steed shall career,
+    O’er the heights of Ben Lomond the galley shall steer,
+    And the rocks of Craig Royston like icicles melt,
+    Ere our wrongs be forgot, or our vengeance unfelt.
+
+Rob seems to have been in some way a Robin Hood, exercising generosity
+toward those poorer and weaker than himself, and he was greatly beloved
+by the people in consequence. Many a ballad is connected with his name,
+and he became a popular hero even before his death. He took part in
+1715 Rebellion on the Jacobite side, and at the Battle of Sheriffmuir
+seems to have been afflicted with the peculiar indecision that
+paralyzed both sides on that memorable day. He was leading, beside his
+own clan, a party of Macphersons, whose chief was too infirm to take
+the field, and he retained his station on a hill, though positively
+ordered by the Earl of Mar to charge. It is said that this charge might
+have decided the day. This incident is embodied in the ballad on the
+occasion:
+
+        Rob Roy he stood watch
+        On a hill for to catch
+    The booty for aught that I saw, mon;
+        For he ne’er advanced
+        From the place where he stanced
+    Till nae mair was to do there at a’, mon.
+
+It is impossible to give even an account of all Rob’s pranks, some of
+which are doubtless mythical, and others which do not greatly redound
+to his credit. He had certainly that picturesque personality which has
+attracted romancers in all ages, and he formed a very fitting subject
+for Scott’s pen.
+
+In the end he turned Roman Catholic, and died, as already stated, at
+Balquhidder.
+
+The road drops very steeply down to Lomond, and passes the earthworks
+which mark the site of a fort built by William III. to overawe the
+rebels. The fort, being on the great outlaw’s property, was an object
+of peculiar hatred. Twice it was surprised and taken—once by Roy
+himself and once by his nephew. It is said that at one time General,
+then Captain, Wolfe was in command of it.
+
+[Sidenote: The Highland Girl]
+
+The little stream Arklet dances and brawls over its bed, in its descent
+accompanying the road, and at length leaps into the lake by a splendid
+waterfall thirty feet in height. Close by this is the palatial hotel at
+Inversnaid, a brother to the one at the Trossachs. When the Wordsworths
+arrived here the first time, after having with great difficulty
+got across Loch Lomond in a row-boat, they found only a miserable
+ferry-house, with a mud floor, and rain coming in at the roof. It was
+here that Wordsworth saw the prototype of his “sweet Highland girl.”
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+LOMOND AND THE MACGREGORS
+
+
+[Sidenote: Ben Lomond]
+
+Lomond is one of the two most magnificent lochs in Scotland. It is
+twenty-one miles long, its only rival being Loch Awe, which is three
+miles longer. It is of a curious wedge shape, being about five miles
+broad at the low end and narrowing to a point in the north. In the
+widest part it bears a perfect archipelago of islands, once thickly
+populated, but now left mostly to deer and other wild creatures.
+There is a tradition of a floating island, repeated by many an
+ancient traveller; but all trace of this phenomenon has vanished—if,
+indeed, it ever existed. The fishing in the loch is free, and salmon,
+sea-trout, lake-trout, pike, and perch are to be caught. The nearness
+of the great lake to Glasgow is at once an advantage and a drawback.
+It is an advantage for the thousands that pour out of the grimy city
+on every holiday, and, at half an hour from their own doors, for a
+trifling sum, can spend joyous days in scenery which can be classed
+with the most beautiful in the world. But it is certainly not an
+unmixed joy to the real lover of Nature, who approaches the lake in
+a spirit of worship, to find the shores black with people and the
+steamers thronged with tourists. The attractions pointed out to those
+who pass up or down the great sheet of water are various. Not the
+least is the giant Ben, who raises his proud head on the eastern side,
+“a sort of Scottish Vesuvius, never wholly without a cloud-cap. You
+cannot move a step that it does not tower over you. In winter a vast
+white sugar-loaf; in summer a prismatic cone of yellow and amethyst
+and opaline lights; in spring a grey, gloomy, stony pile of rocks; in
+autumn a weather indicator, for when the mist curls down its sides and
+hangs in heavy wreaths from its double summit, ‘it has to rain,’ as the
+Spaniards say.”
+
+The mountain is 3,192 feet high, and the ascent is not difficult; by
+the gradually sloping way from the hotel at Rowardennan it is about
+five or six miles, without any very stiff climbing, and there is a
+choice of other routes. On a clear day, which is a rare boon, the
+view from the summit is superb. Sitting on its topmost pinnacle,
+one looks down the almost perpendicular north-eastern slope into the
+little valley where the River Forth may be said to take its rise. On
+the western side Loch Lomond stretches out in full length, and across
+the narrow isthmus of Tarbet is the sea-loch, Loch Long. Far away to
+the east and south the eye may range over the Lothians, Edinburgh, and
+Arthur’s Seat, and even to the distant hills of Cumberland and the
+Isle of Man; while farther west, backed by the Irish coast, is the
+whole scenery of the beautiful Clyde estuary and the nearer Hebrides.
+Northward, peak after peak, rise the stately masses of the Grampians.
+
+Leaving Inversnaid, the first point to which attention is usually
+drawn is the cave in the corries on the east side, called Rob Roy’s
+Cave; much farther down the loch, amid the screes of Ben Lomond, is
+another hole, called Rob Roy’s Prison. The Island Vow, midway across
+the loch opposite Inversnaid, owes its name to a corruption of Eilean
+Vhow, meaning the Brownies’ Isle, a fascinating enough name to a
+child. On the island are some remains of the Macfarlanes’ stronghold.
+Wordsworth’s poem _The Brownie_ originated with this island. On the
+farther shore, a little more northward, there is what is called the
+Pulpit Rock, a cell cut out on the face of the cliff so that it could
+be used for open-air preaching.
+
+[Sidenote: The Macfarlanes]
+
+Right opposite is Ben Voirlich, and, in its fastnesses, wild Loch Sloy,
+whose name formed the war-cry of the Macfarlanes.
+
+The reputation of this clan was not far behind the Macgregors as far as
+desperate courage and mad savagery count. Their headquarters were at
+first on the Isle of Inveruglas, just near the outflow of that stream
+into the loch; then they moved to the Brownies’ Island, doubtless
+finding the near neighbourhood of their hereditary enemies, the men of
+Lorn, too dangerous; but subsequently, becoming bolder, they went to
+Tarbet, and there settled.
+
+The name Tarbet means draw-boat, and the story goes that Haco, King
+of Norway, in 1263 entered Loch Long, and, sailing up it, made his
+men drag the long flat-bottomed boats across the isthmus, and launch
+them on Loch Lomond, in order that he might the more easily attack the
+people on its shores for plunder.
+
+The next point of interest is the promontory of Luss, which gives its
+name to Colquhoun of Luss, whose seat is on the next most beautiful
+wooded promontory at Rossdhu. This family is one of the most ancient on
+record, being able to trace its ancestry back to the Colquhouns in 1190
+and the Lusses in 1150, which two families were united in the main line
+by the marriage of a Colquhoun with the heiress of Luss about 1368.
+Mrs. Walford, the well-known novelist, is a scion of this family. The
+present mansion was built about the end of the eighteenth century, but
+a fragment of the old ancestral home is still standing. Not far off are
+Court Hill and Gallows Hill, where the chieftain tried delinquents,
+and where justice was meted out to them. The slogan of the clan means
+“Knoll of the willow.”
+
+Across the loch, on the opposite side, is Ross Priory, where Scott was
+staying with his friend Hector Macdonald when he wrote part of _Rob
+Roy_.
+
+[Illustration: LOCH LOMOND (Looking towards Glen Falloch).
+
+It is one of the largest lakes in Scotland, and forms part of the
+famous Trossachs round.]
+
+[Sidenote: The Islands]
+
+Just about here we are in a perfect world of islands, some of
+which—notably Inchmurrin—are preserved as a deer-park. At the south
+end are the ruins of a castle once inhabited by the Earls of Lennox,
+who belonged to the Macfarlane clan. Here Isabel, Duchess of
+Albany, retired when her father, husband, and sons had been executed
+at Stirling in 1424. Of the other islands, we have the names of
+Inchchlonaig, meaning the Island of Yew-trees, on which the yews are
+said to have been planted by Robert Bruce to furnish bows for his
+archers; Inchtavannach, or Monks’ Island; Inchcruin, Round Island;
+Inchfad, Long Island; and Inchcaillach, the Island of Women, from a
+nunnery once established here. This is close to the Pier of Balmaha,
+where is the entrance to a pass over the mountains, a well-known road
+in the old days of tribal war and bloodshed.
+
+The Wordsworths landed on Inchtavannach, and climbed to the top of it.
+Here is Dorothy’s description: “We had not climbed far before we were
+stopped by a sudden burst of prospect, so singular and beautiful that
+it was like a flash of images from another world. We stood with our
+backs to the hill of the island, which we were ascending, and which
+shut out Ben Lomond entirely and all the upper part of the lake, and
+we looked toward the foot of the lake, scattered over with islands,
+without beginning and without end. The sun shone, and the distant
+hills were visible—some through sunny mists, others in gloom with
+patches of sunshine; the lake was lost under the low and distant
+hills, and the islands lost in the lake, which was all in motion, with
+travelling fields of light, or dark shadows under rainy clouds. There
+are many hills, but no commanding eminence at a distance to confine the
+prospect, so that the land seemed endless as the water.... Immediately
+under my eyes lay one large flat island bare and green ... another, its
+next neighbour, was covered with heath and coppice wood, the surface
+undulating.... These two islands, with Inchtavannach, where we were
+standing, were intermingled with the water, I might say interbedded,
+and interveined with it, in a manner that was exquisitely pleasing.
+There were bays innumerable, straits or passages like calm rivers,
+land-locked lakes, and, to the main water, stormy promontories.”
+
+Not far from Rossdhu, on the west, is the entrance to Glen Fruin, the
+Glen of Weeping—a sad name, which turned out to be appropriate enough
+in view of the terrible scenes which happened here.
+
+[Sidenote: The Macgregors]
+
+The trouble began with the Macgregors. Their clan claimed descent
+from the third son of Alpine, King of the Scots, who lived about 787,
+and was therefore known by the alternative name of Clan Alpine. Their
+savage ways made them hated by their neighbours, and the Earls of
+Argyll and Breadalbane managed to obtain from the Government a right by
+charter to a great part of the lands belonging to the unfortunate clan.
+This, of course, was the signal for a fight to the death.
+
+From the time of Queen Mary onward various warrants were given to the
+other clans to make war on the unfortunate Macgregors, and to extirpate
+them as they would vermin. They were not only to be hounded out of
+existence, but the other clans were forbidden to supply them with the
+common necessaries of life. The climax was reached in the slaughter
+of Glen Fruin, which arose in this wise: Two of the Macgregors, being
+benighted, called at the house of one of the Colquhouns, and asked
+shelter. This was refused. They accordingly helped themselves to a
+sheep and supped off mutton, for which it is alleged they offered
+payment. The Laird of Luss seized them and had them both executed.
+Then the rest of the clan arose in wrath, and, to the number of three
+or four hundred strong, marched down to Luss. Sir Humphrey Colquhoun,
+receiving warning of their advance, called together his clansmen and
+others, to double the number of the invaders, and advanced to meet
+them, doing so in Glen Fruin.
+
+The clan of the Macgregors charged the Colquhouns with fury, and, owing
+to the fact that part of the opposing force was mounted, and that the
+horses got mired in the boggy ground, they were able, notwithstanding
+their inferiority of numbers, to get the best of it, whereupon they set
+upon their flying foes and slaughtered them mercilessly.
+
+The event which, however, lives in memory longest is that of the
+action of a gigantic Macgregor, called Dugald Ciar Mohr, or the “great
+mouse-coloured man,” who was in charge, as their tutor, of a party
+of youths from Glasgow. It is said that, excited by the sound of his
+clansmen shouting their war-cry, or incensed by the remarks of the
+youths against his clan, he lost his head; anyway, he slew them all in
+cold blood.
+
+[Sidenote: The Clerk’s Stone]
+
+The great stone called Leck-a-Mhinisteir, the “minister or clerk’s
+stone,” is still pointed out as the place where this horrid deed was
+done, and it is said the stone was bathed red in the blood of the
+hapless boys. This Dugald was the ancestor of Rob Roy and his tribe.
+
+The terrible song put by Sir Walter Scott into the mouths of the
+Macgregor boatmen carries with it a wild cry of savagery:
+
+    Proudly our pibroch has thrilled in Glen Fruin,
+      And Bannacha’s groans to our slogan replied;
+    Glen Luss and Rossdhu they are smoking in ruin;
+      And the best of Loch Lomond lie dead on its side.
+          Widow and Saxon maid
+          Long shall lament our raid,
+    Think of Clan Alpine with fear and with woe;
+          Lennox and Leven Glen
+          Shake when they hear again
+    Roderick vich Alpine dhu! ho feroe!
+
+After this defeat the fury and wrath of the other clans, who were in
+favour at Court, may be imagined, and the widows of the slain men, to
+the number of several score, were sent, dressed in deep mourning, and
+riding upon white palfreys, carrying each her husband’s bloody shirt,
+to demand vengeance of King James VI. on the Macgregors. The Court was
+then at Stirling, and surely Stirling never saw a more woesome sight!
+The vengeance they obtained was all that they could desire, for by an
+Act of Privy Council, dated April 3, 1603, the name of Macgregor was
+wiped out of the land, all those who bore it being compelled, under
+dire penalties, to adopt the name of some other clan; hence it was
+that Rob Roy was known as Rob Roy Macgregor Campbell. The Macgregors
+were forbidden to carry any weapons, and were otherwise penalized.
+The chief, Alistair Macgregor, who had led the fight at Glen Fruin,
+was seized, and hanged in 1604. Yet, in spite of these and other dire
+disabilities, the Macgregors continued to be Macgregors in heart,
+whatever they might call themselves, and held their heads as high as
+their own crest, a pine-tree. They attached themselves to the cause of
+King Charles in the Civil Wars, and were subsequently rewarded by the
+annulling of the Acts and having their rights restored to them.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Aberfoyle, 31-40
+
+Aberfoyle, Pass of, 33-35
+
+Achray, Loch, 41
+
+Alexander I., 18
+
+Ard, Loch, 32, 35
+
+Argyll, Duke of, 22
+
+Arklet, Loch, 47
+
+Arklet (stream), 50
+
+
+Balquhidder, 26, 27
+
+Bannockburn, 18
+
+Bealach Nambo, 45
+
+Ben A’an, 26, 47
+
+Ben Ledi, 17, 29, 39
+
+Ben Lomond, 17, 39, 53
+
+Ben More, 17, 26
+
+Ben Nevis, 39
+
+Ben Vane, 17
+
+Ben Venue, 39, 45, 46
+
+Ben Voil, 39
+
+Ben Voirlich, 17, 55
+
+Brig o’ Turk, 30
+
+Buchanan, George, 18
+
+
+Callander, 23
+
+Carnegie, Mr., 26
+
+Coilantogle Ford, 29
+
+Coleridge, 46
+
+Colquhoun of Luss, 56
+
+Craig Royston, 48
+
+Craig Vadh, 39
+
+
+Douglas, Earl of, 20
+
+Drunkie, Loch, 39
+
+Duncraggan, 30
+
+
+Edward I., 18
+
+Edward II., 18
+
+Ellen’s Isle, 44, 45
+
+
+Falloch, Glen, 48
+
+Finlas Water, 30
+
+Forth, The, 22, 31
+
+
+Glasgow Waterworks, 29, 44
+
+Glencairn, Earl of, 35
+
+Glen Fruin, 58
+
+Glengyle, 46, 47
+
+Goblin’s Cave, 45
+
+Graham of Duchray, 35
+
+Grey, Sir Patrick, 20
+
+
+Inchcaillach, 57
+
+Inchchlonaig, 57
+
+Inchcruin, 57
+
+Inchfad, 57
+
+Inchmahone, 37
+
+Inchmurrin, 56
+
+Inchtavannach, 57
+
+Inversnaid, 48, 51
+
+Inveruglas, Isle, 55
+
+Island Vow, 54
+
+
+James II., 20
+
+James III., 18
+
+James IV., 18
+
+James V., 18, 19
+
+James VI., 18
+
+
+Katrine, Loch, 47
+
+_Kidnapped_, 27
+
+King’s Knot, The, 17
+
+
+_Lady of the Lake, The_, 5, 6, 9-15, 22, 23, 47
+
+_Lady of the Lake, The_, quoted, 24, 25, 30, 31, 41, 44, 45
+
+Laggan Farm, 26
+
+Lanrick Mead, 29
+
+Ledard, Falls of, 35
+
+_Legend of Montrose, The_, 27
+
+Leny, Falls of, 24
+
+Leny, Pass of, 23
+
+Lomond, Loch, 52-62
+
+Lubnaig, Loch, 24
+
+
+Macfarlane Clan, 55
+
+Macgregor Clan, 58-62
+
+Macgregor, Helen, 26, 34, 48
+
+Mary Queen of Scots, 18, 38
+
+Menteith, Earls of, 37
+
+Menteith, Lake of, 37
+
+
+Reoichte, Loch, 39
+
+Rob Roy, 5, 23, 27, 48-50, 61, 62
+
+_Rob Roy_, 5, 31-34, 56
+
+Robert the Bruce, 48
+
+Rossdhu, 58
+
+Routes, 9
+
+Rowardennan, 53
+
+
+St. Bride’s Chapel, 24
+
+Schiehallion, 39
+
+Scott, Sir Walter, 5, 6, 7, 14, 15, 25, 35, 36, 45, 48, 56
+
+Sheriffmuir, Battle of, 49
+
+Silver Strand, 44
+
+Stirling, 16-22
+
+Stirling Castle, 18-22
+
+Strathyre, 26
+
+Stronachlachar, 47
+
+
+Tarbet, 55
+
+Trossachs, The, 41-46
+
+Trossachs Hotel, 31, 40
+
+
+Vennachar, Loch, 29
+
+
+_Waverley_, 35
+
+Wolfe, Captain (General), 50
+
+Wordsworths, The, 8, 26, 42, 45, 51, 57
+
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+  SOHO SQ., LONDON]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Transcriber’s Note: The following changes have been made to this text:
+
+Page 10: Greame changed to Graeme.
+
+Illustration facing page 49: Kathrine changed to Katrine.
+
+Page 63: Glenfruin to Glen Fruin.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Trossachs, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Trossachs, by Geraldine Edith Mitton

-

-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or

-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license

-

-

-Title: The Trossachs

-

-Author: Geraldine Edith Mitton

-

-Release Date: April 19, 2018 [EBook #57004]

-

-Language: English

-

-Character set encoding: UTF-8

-

-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TROSSACHS ***

-

-

-

-

-Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed

-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net

-

-

-

-

-

-

-</pre>

-

-

-<h1 class='faux'>THE TROSSACHS</h1>

-

-<div class="figcenter w500"><a id="cover"></a>

-<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="500" height="713" alt="" title="THE TROSSACHS by G. E. Mitton" />

-</div>

-

-<hr class="full" /><div>

-

-<div class="figcenter w300">

-<img src="images/series.jpg" width="300" height="600" alt="In this series" />

-</div>

-

-<hr class="tb" />

-

-<p class='ph3'><span class="smcap">In this Series</span></p>

-

-<ul class="pl4"><li>ABBOTSFORD</li>

-<li>CAMBRIDGE</li>

-<li>CANTERBURY</li>

-<li>CHANNEL ISLANDS</li>

-<li>ENGLISH LAKES</li>

-<li>FIRTH OF CLYDE</li>

-<li>ISLE OF ARRAN</li>

-<li>ISLE OF MAN</li>

-<li>ISLE OF WIGHT</li>

-<li>KILLARNEY</li>

-<li>LONDON</li>

-<li>OXFORD</li>

-<li>PEAK COUNTRY</li>

-<li>STRATFORD-ON-AVON</li>

-<li>  <ul><li>Leamington and Warwick</li></ul></li>

-

-<li>THAMES</li>

-<li>TROSSACHS</li>

-<li>NORTH WALES</li>

-<li>WESSEX</li>

-<li>WESTMINSTER ABBEY</li>

-<li>WINDSOR AND ETON</li></ul>

-

-<hr class="tb" />

-

-<p class='center'>

-PUBLISHED BY<br />

-ADAM &amp; CHARLES BLACK<br />

-SOHO SQ., LONDON<br />

-</p>

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div>

-

-<div class="figcenter w600"><a id="frontispiece"></a>

-<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="600" height="830" alt="Frontispiece" />

-</div>

-

-<hr class="chap" /><div>

-

-<div class="figcenter w600">

-<img src="images/title.jpg" width="600" height="891" alt="" />

-

-<hr class="tb" />

-

-<div class="caption"><p class="center"><em>Beautiful Britain</em><br />

-<br />

-<em>The Trossachs</em><br />

-<br />

-<em>By</em><br />

-<br />

-<em>G. E. Mitton</em><br />

-<br />

-<br />

-<em>London Adam &amp; Charles Black</em><br />

-<br />

-<em>Soho Square W</em><br />

-<em>1911</em></p></div>

-</div>

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div><div>

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">{iii}</a></span></p>

-

-<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</a></h2>

-

-<div class="center">

-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents">

-<tr><td align="left" colspan='2'>CHAPTER</td><td align="right">PAGE</td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></span></td><td align="left">“<span class="smcap">The Lady of the Lake</span>”</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> <span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Royal City of Stirling</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">By the Route of the Fiery Cross to Balquhidder</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> <span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Approaches to the Trossachs</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Heart of the Trossachs</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> <span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Lomond and the Macgregors</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr>

-</table></div>

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">{iv}</a></span></p>

-

-

-<hr class="tb" />

-

-<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</a></h2>

-

-

-<div class="center">

-<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="List of Illustrations">

-<tr><td align="right"> 1.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#frontispiece">Birches by Loch Achray</a></span></td><td align="right"><em><a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></em></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="right" colspan='2'><span class="smalltext">FACING PAGE</span></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> 2.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ben_venue">Beneath the Crags of Ben Venue</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#ben_venue">9</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> 3.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#stirling_castle">Stirling Castle from the King’s Knot</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#stirling_castle">16</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> 4.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#loch_vennachar">Loch Vennachar</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#loch_vennachar">25</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> 5.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#loch_lubnaig">Loch Lubnaig</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#loch_lubnaig">27</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> 6.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#brig_o_turk">Brig o’ Turk and Ben Venue</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#brig_o_turk">30</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> 7.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#heart_of_the_trossachs">In the Heart of the Trossachs</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#heart_of_the_trossachs">32</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> 8.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#the_silver_strand">The Silver Strand</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#the_silver_strand">43</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right"> 9.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#loch_katrine">Loch Katrine and Ellen’s Isle</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#loch_katrine">46</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right">10.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ben_aan">Ben A’an, seen from Loch Katrine</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#ben_aan">49</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right">11.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#loch_lomond">Head of Loch Lomond</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#loch_lomond">56</a></td></tr>

-<tr><td align="right">12.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#cover">Silver Birches in the Trossachs</a></span></td><td align="right"><em><a href="#cover">On the cover</a></em></td></tr>

-</table></div>

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">{5}</a></span></p>

-

-

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div><div>

-

-

-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a><br />

-<br />

-“THE LADY OF THE LAKE”</h2>

-

-

-<p><span class="smcap">The</span> charm that lies in a mysterious name has

-been amply exemplified in that of the Trossachs,

-which is said to mean “bristled territory.”

-Something in the shaggy uncouthness of the

-word fits so well with the land of romance and

-mountain scenery that it has drawn tens of

-thousands to make the round between Glasgow

-and Edinburgh, by rail and coach and steamer,

-who, if the name had not been so mysteriously

-attractive, might never have bestirred themselves

-at all. Since the publication of <cite>Rob Roy</cite> and <cite>The

-Lady of the Lake</cite> the principal actors in these

-dramas have been just as real and important to

-the imaginative tourist as the familiar names of

-history. It is nothing to them that Rob Roy, of the

-clan of Macgregor, was merely a Highland thief:

-his character, invested by Scott with the charm of

-a magician’s pen, has made him as heroic as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">{6}</a></span>

-great Wallace himself; while Ellen, the Lady

-of the Lake, wholly born of the poet’s imagination,

-has become only second to Mary Queen

-of Scots.</p>

-

-<p>Scott has certainly done much for the land of

-his birth: not only has he enriched its literature

-for all time, and raised its literary standing in the

-eyes of nations, but he has done more for it

-commercially than almost any other writer has

-ever done for any country in bringing to it

-streams of visitors, especially from across the

-Atlantic. The gold flowing from the coffers of

-the Sassenach into the pouches of the Gael is

-a perennial blessing which could hardly have

-been secured in any other way.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">“The Lady of the Lake”</div>

-

-<p>We are told that on the appearance of <cite>The

-Lady of the Lake</cite>, “the whole country rang

-with the praises of the poet; crowds set off to

-view the scenery of Loch Katrine, till then comparatively

-unknown; and as the book came out

-just before the season for excursions, every house

-and inn in that neighbourhood was crammed

-with a constant succession of visitors. From the

-date of the publication of <cite>The Lady of the

-Lake</cite>, the post-horse duty in Scotland rose in an

-extraordinary degree, and it continued to do so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">{7}</a></span>

-for a number of years, the author’s succeeding

-works keeping up the enthusiasm for our scenery

-which he had originally created.”</p>

-

-<p>There are fairer spots in Scotland than the Trossachs,

-beautiful as they are; yet, notwithstanding

-this, their popularity remains unabated. The trip

-certainly has the advantage of being accessible; it

-can be “done” in a day from either Edinburgh

-or Glasgow, and this is a great recommendation

-to those who are going on to “do” Europe in

-record time. Then, again, anyone who has seen

-Edinburgh and the Trossachs is fairly safe in

-saying he has seen Scotland, whereas one of wider

-range, who had, say, gone up the Highland Railway

-to Inverness and returned via the Caledonian

-Canal, if unmindful of the Trossachs, would be

-taunted with his omission every time the subject

-was mentioned.</p>

-

-<p>However, the greatly increased facilities of

-steamer and rail do doubtless tend to send people

-farther afield, and the much longer round via the

-Caledonian Canal can count its hundreds where

-it previously counted units.</p>

-

-<p>Until Scott’s time the Trossachs were little

-known, but then the cult of scenery-worship as

-we know it had not been evolved. That they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">{8}</a></span>

-were somewhat known is shown in Dorothy

-Wordsworth’s <cite>Journal</cite>.</p>

-

-<p>When William Wordsworth, with his sister

-and the poet Coleridge, made a tour in 1803, they

-were met at Loch Katrine (coming from Loch

-Lomond) with stares of amusement from the peasants.

-“There were no boats,” says Dorothy in her

-<cite>Journal</cite>, “and no lodging nearer than Callander,

-ten miles beyond the foot of the lake. A laugh

-was on every face when William said we were

-come to see the Trossachs; no doubt they thought

-we had better have stayed at our own homes.

-William endeavoured to make it appear not so

-very foolish by informing them that it was a

-place much celebrated in England, though

-perhaps little thought of by them.” This was

-six years before the publication of the great

-poem.</p>

-

-<p>The Trossachs proper are the irregularly-shaped

-hills and rocks, covered with a thick growth of

-bristling firs, that lie between Loch Katrine and

-Loch Vennachar, and along the shores of little

-Loch Achray. But the name is generally taken

-to mean the whole round, including the traversing

-of Loch Lomond, as well as Loch Katrine,

-and the road journey.</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w600"><a id="ben_venue"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_09.jpg" width="600" height="843" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">“BENEATH THE CRAGS OF BEN VENUE.”</p>

-

-<p class="center">The precipitous ascents from the south-east corner of Loch Katrine.</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">{9}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>Much the most usual route is from either

-Glasgow or Edinburgh, via Callander; but a

-secondary one, which has great attraction for

-some people, is that by Aberfoyle, which cuts

-into the heart of the Trossachs from the south.

-This has the disadvantage of missing Loch

-Vennachar; but, truth to tell, the coach drive

-along by Loch Vennachar is not beautiful, and

-were it not illumined by romantic imagination,

-and regarded as a prelude or epilogue to

-something better, it could easily be dispensed

-with.</p>

-

-<p>The outline of the story of <cite>The Lady of the

-Lake</cite> is supposed to be known to everyone,

-but there are few who could give it off-hand.

-The principal character, and the only one not

-fictitious, is that of James V. of Scotland, and his

-habit of wandering incognito among his people

-is used to further the plot. The poem opens with

-a stag-hunt, when the fine animal, after leading

-his pursuers a tremendous dance, plunges into

-the Trossachs and disappears from view. Only

-one horseman has been able to follow up the chase,

-and his steed at this juncture drops down dead,

-leaving his master to scramble onward to Loch

-Katrine as best he can. This he does, and as he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">{10}</a></span>

-stands on the shore he sees a boat rowed by a

-young girl rapidly approaching, coming out

-from a little island. She tells him he is expected&mdash;in

-fact, his visit has been foretold by a soothsayer,

-Allan Bane&mdash;and asks him to come to the island

-and receive the hospitality of her father’s house.

-She is Ellen, daughter to one of the outlawed

-Douglases, who have been in arms against their

-King.</p>

-

-<p>The girl’s mother receives the stranger

-courteously on his arrival, and he announces

-himself as James Fitz-James. He remains with

-them that night, and leaves next morning before

-the return of Douglas with Ellen’s young lover,

-Malcolm Graeme, and a powerful rebel, Roderick

-Dhu, the head of Clan MacAlpine, the Macgregors.</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">An outlawed desperate man,</div>

-<div class="verse">The chief of a rebellious clan.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>This man tries to gain Ellen’s hand as the

-price of his support of her father, but his suit is

-unsuccessful.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Fiery Cross</div>

-

-<p>The next day, determined on a wild rising

-against the King, who is known to be at Stirling

-with his Court, Roderick sends the fiery cross<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">{11}</a></span>

-round to summon his followers to Lanrick Mead.

-The cross is made by the priest&mdash;</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">A cubit’s length in measure due,</div>

-<div class="verse">The shaft and limbs were rods of yew.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>This was dipped in the blood of a slaughtered

-goat and scathed with flame. Then the priest

-shook it on high, shouting:</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">“Woe to the wretch who fails to rear</div>

-<div class="verse">At this dread sign the ready spear!</div>

-<div class="verse">For, as the flames this symbol sear,</div>

-<div class="verse">His home, the refuge of his fear,</div>

-<div class="verse">A kindred fate shall know.</div>

-</div><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse indent4">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>

-</div><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Sunk be his home in embers red!</div>

-<div class="verse">And cursed be the meanest shed</div>

-<div class="verse">That e’er shall hide the houseless head.</div>

-</div><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse indent4">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>

-</div><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Burst be the ear that fails to heed!</div>

-<div class="verse">Palsied the foot that shuns to speed!</div>

-<div class="verse">May ravens tear the careless eyes,</div>

-<div class="verse">Wolves make the coward heart their prize.”</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>Roderick’s servant, Malise, seizing the cross,

-starts off through the Trossachs, and along Loch

-Achray to Duncraggan, where he hands the

-symbol on to “Angus, heir of Duncan’s line,”

-who carries it along Vennachar and up to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">{12}</a></span>

-pass of Leny, passing it on to a bridegroom on

-Loch Lubnaig, and so it follows round all the

-haunts of the clan.</p>

-

-<p>Ellen and her father meantime retreat to a

-cave on Ben Venue. Here she accidentally meets

-again the fascinating stranger, who tries to

-persuade her to elope with him; but she tells

-him of her love for young Malcolm, and he

-honourably refrains from pressing his suit; instead

-he gives her a ring which, he says, was given

-him by the King, with a promise that on its

-production the King would fulfil any request of

-the wearer. Meantime he is being watched by

-Roderick Dhu as a spy, and Roderick sends a so-called

-guide to conduct him out of the labyrinth;

-but the guide is one of the clan Murdoch, who

-has secret orders to kill the stranger so soon as

-he gets him alone. The seer has proclaimed

-that whichever side first kills one of the other

-will win in the trial of strength now about to

-begin, and when Roderick hears this he rejoices

-to think that by treachery the lot will fall

-to him.</p>

-

-<p>Fitz-James, however, is warned by a half-witted

-woman wandering in the wood, and when

-he discloses his suspicions he is shot at by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">{13}</a></span>

-Murdoch, who, however, misses him and kills

-the woman instead. Fitz-James, furious at this

-barbarity, promptly kills him, and, cutting off a

-tress of the dying woman’s hair, swears to kill the

-chief, Roderick Dhu, the author of this foul

-deed, whenever he shall meet him. He wanders

-on in the wilderness of trees and rocks, and, as

-night is coming on, he loses himself.</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Famished and chilled, through ways unknown,</div>

-<div class="verse">Tangled and steep, he journeyed on;</div>

-<div class="verse">Till, as a rock’s huge point he turned,</div>

-<div class="verse">A watch-fire close before him burned.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Fight</div>

-

-<p>Beside it is a huge Highlander, who is at first

-churlish and inclined to resent the intrusion; but

-the inbred virtue of hospitality conquers, and he

-allows the stranger to share his camp, promising

-to see him safe as far as Coilantogle Ford next

-morning. However, in the morning the two

-quarrel, and the great Highlander is revealed as

-Roderick Dhu himself. Roderick is furious at

-hearing of the death of Murdoch, but would

-have kept his word and given his guest safe-conduct

-had not Fitz-James, burning to be at

-him, absolved him from it, and they fight close

-by the ford. Just as Roderick is about to stab<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">{14}</a></span>

-his foe mortally he himself sinks down, overcome

-with loss of blood, and some men-at-arms from

-Stirling ride up, greeting Fitz-James as the King.

-They carry the senseless body of Roderick back

-with them to Stirling.</p>

-

-<p>When the King is once again in his own

-fortress games and sports take place, and Ellen’s

-father, who has dared to attend them incognito,

-reveals himself in a burst of temper and is

-captured.</p>

-

-<p>Ellen now makes her way to Stirling, carrying

-the ring, which proves an Open Sesame, and

-discovers to her astonishment the “knight in

-Lincoln green” who wooed her in the forest is

-no other than the monarch himself. James

-keeps his word, forgives her father, and pledges

-her to young Malcolm. Roderick, whose crimes

-would have made him difficult to pardon, conveniently

-dies, and the story finishes happily.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">Scott in the Trossachs</div>

-

-<p>Scott was very particular that the scenery of

-his plot should be correct, and visited the

-Trossachs carefully, and even rode from Loch

-Vennachar to Stirling, to make sure of the possibility

-of the feat he attributed to Fitz-James.

-In view of the warlike nature of the poem,

-Lockhart remarks it was rather an odd coincidence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">{15}</a></span>

-that the first time Scott entered the

-Trossachs he did so “riding in all the dignity

-of danger, with a front and rear guard and loaded

-arms, to enforce the execution of a legal instrument

-against some Maclarens, refractory tenants

-of Stewart of Appin.”</p>

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div><div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">{16}</a></span></p>

-

-

-

-

-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a><br />

-<br />

-THE ROYAL CITY OF STIRLING</h2>

-

-

-<p><span class="smcap">As</span> a good deal of the scene of the poem is laid

-at Stirling, and as most people will take the

-opportunity of breaking their journey at so

-classic a town, a few pages must be devoted to it.</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="stirling_castle"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_16.jpg" width="800" height="589" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">STIRLING CASTLE, FROM THE KING’S KNOT.</p>

-

-<p class="center">In 1304 the Castle was taken by the English after a three month’s siege, and held by them

-until the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314.</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The “Round Table”</div>

-

-<p>The rock on which the castle of Stirling

-stands is a most remarkable object in the landscape,

-jutting out with the precipitousness of a

-sea-cliff from the plain. It is absolutely inaccessible

-on the one side, but slopes away on the

-other, and it is on these slopes that the town

-stands. Many a visitor has grumbled at the

-long pull up through the narrow, and in some

-places squalid, streets before reaching the castle;

-but the reward is great, for the view is far-reaching.

-It may be best seen, however, from a

-place called the Ladies’ Rock in the churchyard,

-because there it includes the castle-rock on its

-steepest side. Here, also, there is to be found a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">{17}</a></span>

-plan of all the mountains by which they

-may be identified&mdash;Bens Ledi, Lomond, Vane,

-More, and Voirlich; also, down below, is a

-curious turf-garden, called the King’s Knot, said

-to have been the scene of the mimic games and

-contests of the Court. It was here Scott laid the

-scene of the games described in the poem, and

-with what redoubled interest can the account be

-read, when, having seen the place, memory can

-conjure up a mind-picture of it! This odd

-terracing is mentioned by Barbour, in describing

-the flight of Edward II. after Bannockburn, as

-the Round Table. It is within the bounds of

-possibility that it existed in the days of King

-Arthur, for centuries before Arthur’s time Stirling

-was a Roman station, and the King in his

-day is known to have been in the neighbourhood.</p>

-

-<p>The history of Stirling reaches back beyond

-all records. Long before Edinburgh had attained

-its position as capital of the kingdom, while it

-was still but a Border fortress, liable to be taken

-and retaken as English or Scots extended their

-territory, Stirling was one of the strongholds

-of the country. From time immemorial some

-fortress had stood on this impregnable position.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">{18}</a></span>

-In 1124 Alexander I. died here, so that it must

-then have been a fortress-palace, and in 1304

-the castle held out for three months against

-Edward I. of England. After it was taken it

-remained in the possession of England until the

-Battle of Bannockburn, and Bannockburn lies

-only about three miles from Stirling. Even the

-supine Edward II. wended his way so far north

-with the object of retaining such a desirable place.

-James III. was born here, and probably James IV.

-also, while James V., the hero of <cite>The Lady of

-the Lake</cite>, was crowned in the parish church as

-a toddling child of two. His much-discussed

-daughter, Queen Mary, passed the years of her

-childhood at the castle. Her little son James,

-who was destined to unite the two kingdoms,

-was baptized at the castle with tremendous ceremony,

-while his father, Darnley, sulked apart,

-and refused to take his proper position. Here

-James VI. and I. spent mainly the first thirteen

-years of his life, under the tutelage of the scholar

-George Buchanan, and it was only when he

-became King of England that Stirling ceased to

-be a royal residence.</p>

-

-<p>Of the origin of the name Stirling there is no

-certain record. In old records it is spelt Stryveling,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">{19}</a></span>

-Strivilin, and so on, through various minor

-alterations, wherefore it has sometimes been held

-to mean “strife,” a most appropriate signification.

-It used occasionally to be referred to also as

-Snowdon, a fact mentioned in Scott’s poem:</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse indent8">For Stirling’s Tower</div>

-<div class="verse">Of yore the name of Snowdon claims.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Wandering King</div>

-

-<p>By far the most striking part of the castle is

-the palace, which was begun by James IV. and

-finished by James V. This is in the form of a

-square, and is decidedly French in character,

-a fact attributed to the influence of his wife,

-Mary of Guise. Strange life-size figures project

-beneath arcades, and the carving is in some cases

-most weird and grotesque. James V. was very

-much associated with the castle. He was fond

-of assuming disguises and wandering about

-incognito among his people; for this purpose he

-sometimes took the name of the “Gudeman of

-Ballengeich,” Ballengeich being a road running

-below the castle walls. The songs “The Gaberlunzie

-Man” and “We’ll gang nae mair a-rovin”

-are said to have been founded on his exploits.

-He was renowned for his success with the fair

-sex, and altogether the rôle given to him by

-Scott fits him admirably.</p>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">{20}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>The castle is now occupied by a garrison, and

-the picturesque Highland dress of the men adds

-much as a foreground to the grey walls of the

-old buildings. An awkward squad may frequently

-be seen drilling in the courtyard, unkindly

-exposed to the eyes of passing visitors.

-In this square is the Parliament House, built by

-James III., and this is where the last Parliament

-in Scotland held its sittings.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Douglas Room</div>

-

-<p>The Douglas Room, reached by a narrow

-passage, will, however, claim most attention

-from those to whom history is a living thing.

-It was here that James II. stabbed the Earl of

-Douglas in 1452. The Douglases had so grown

-in power and influence, that it had begun to be

-a question whether Stuarts or Douglases should

-reign in Scotland. The King was afraid of the

-power of his mighty rivals, and accordingly

-invited the Douglas, the eighth Earl, to come as

-his guest to the castle for a conference. The

-Douglas came without misgiving, though it is

-said he demanded, and received, a safe-conduct.

-It was about the middle of January, and no

-doubt huge log fires warmed the inclement air

-in the great draughty halls where the party dined

-and supped with much appearance of cordiality<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">{21}</a></span>

-and goodwill, but beneath lay hate and terror

-and rancour, bitter as the grave.</p>

-

-<p>After supper the King drew Douglas aside to

-an inner chamber, and tried to persuade him to

-break away from the allies which threatened,

-with his house, to form a combination disastrous

-to the security of the throne. The Earl refused,

-and high words began to fly from one to the

-other. The King demanded that Douglas should

-break from his allies, and the Earl replied again he

-would not. “Then this shall!” cried the King,

-twice stabbing his guest with his own royal hand.

-Sir Patrick Grey, who was near by, came up and

-finished the job with a pole-axe, and then the

-body was thrown over into the court below. It

-was a gross violation of every law of decency

-even in those lawless days, and well the King

-must have known the storm his action would

-arouse. Burton, the historian of Scotland,

-adduces this as evidence that the crime was

-not meditated, but done in a mere fit of ungovernable

-rage. The murdered man’s four

-brothers surrounded and besieged the castle, and

-nailing to a cross in contempt the safe-conduct

-the King had given, trailed it through the miry

-streets tied to the tail of the wretchedest horse<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">{22}</a></span>

-they could find, thus publishing the ignominy

-of their Sovereign. They burnt and destroyed

-wherever they could, and the King had many

-years of strenuous warfare before him as a result

-of that night’s work.</p>

-

-<p>From the castle battlements the “bonny links

-of Forth” can be seen winding and looping and

-doubling on themselves, and also the old bridge,

-which was the key to the Highlands and the

-only dry passage across the Forth for centuries.

-This bridge is even older than any existing part

-of the castle. It has seen many desperate skirmishes,

-most notable of which was that of 1715,

-when the Duke of Argyll, with only 1,500 men,

-held here in check thousands of Highlanders.

-Here we must leave Stirling, without noting the

-rest of the old buildings, as this is no guide-book,

-and the city is merely looked upon as the key to

-the Trossachs and the scene of some of the drama

-enacted in <cite>The Lady of the Lake</cite>.</p>

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div><div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">{23}</a></span></p>

-

-

-

-

-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a><br />

-<br />

-BY THE ROUTE OF THE FIERY CROSS TO BALQUHIDDER</h2>

-

-

-<p><span class="smcap">Few</span> indeed of those who come up comfortably

-by rail to Callander, and step at once to a

-seat on a waiting four-horsed coach, adorned by

-a scarlet-coated driver and tootling horn, ever

-think of arriving a day sooner and exploring

-northward along the continuation of the single

-line which has brought them so far, or, better

-still, of going on northward by road through

-the Pass of Leny to beautiful little Strathyre for

-the night. Yet they miss much by not doing so,

-for at Balquhidder, a little beyond Strathyre, is

-the grave of Rob Roy and the reputed graves of

-his wife and son, while up the Pass of Leny

-itself was carried the fiery cross, so that the story

-of <cite>The Lady of the Lake</cite> is hardly complete

-without a visit to it.</p>

-

-<p>Few more beautiful passes are to be seen than<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">{24}</a></span>

-Leny. The dashing stream which runs in a

-wooded cleft below the road is exactly what one

-expects a Scottish stream to be. The brown

-peat-water breaks in cascades over huge grey

-weather-worn stones, or lies in deep clear pools.

-The irregularities of its course reveal new beauties

-at every turn: the dripping green ferns, for ever

-sprinkled with the spray, hang quivering over

-the agate depths, and the emerald moss, saturated

-like a sponge, softens the sharp angles of stones.

-Tufts of free-growing heather, large as bushes,

-add colour to the scene, and the slender white

-stems of the birches rise gracefully amid the

-gnarled alders and dark-needled firs. The Falls

-of Leny are reached by a footpath from the road.</p>

-

-<p>Angus, carrying the cross, was confronted by

-the stream, which divided him from the chapel

-of St. Bride, whose site is now marked by a small

-graveyard just where the water issues from Loch

-Lubnaig. He had to plunge in, panting and hot

-as he was.</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">He stumbled twice&mdash;the foam splashed high,</div>

-<div class="verse">With hoarser swell the stream raced by.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>Then, gaining the shore, he faced the chapel

-entrance just as a gay crowd came forth escorting

-a newly-wedded pair.</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="loch_vennachar"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_25.jpg" width="800" height="579" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">LOCH VENNACHAR.</p>

-

-<p class="center">Here was Coilantogle Ford where King James V. fought Roderick Dhu.</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">{25}</a></span></p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">In rude but glad procession came</div>

-<div class="verse">Bonneted sire and coif-clad dame;</div>

-<div class="verse">And plaided youth with jest and jeer,</div>

-<div class="verse">Which snooded maiden would not hear.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Bridegroom’s Part</div>

-

-<p>Scott does not tell us why the dripping youth

-selected the bridegroom out of all the crowd

-to carry on the brand, but doubtless there were

-reasons: it was possibly his right as a senior in

-the clan. Still, it is little wonder that the unfortunate

-man, who dared not refuse, yet

-hesitated.</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Yet slow he laid his plaid aside</div>

-<div class="verse">And, lingering, eyed his lovely bride</div>

-<div class="verse">Until he saw the starting tear</div>

-<div class="verse">Speak woe he might not stop to cheer;</div>

-<div class="verse">Then trusting not a second look,</div>

-<div class="verse">In haste he sped him up the brook.</div>

-</div><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse indent4">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>

-</div><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Mingled with love’s impatience came</div>

-<div class="verse">The manly thirst for martial fame.</div>

-</div><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse indent4">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>

-</div><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Stung by such thoughts, o’er bank and brae</div>

-<div class="verse">Like fire from flint he glanced away.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>The railway crosses the stream about this

-point, and continues up the west side of the loch,

-while the road keeps on the right, or eastern, side.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">{26}</a></span>

-The rail passes Laggan Farm, said to be the

-birthplace of Rob’s Amazonian wife, Helen,

-who takes a part only second to himself in the

-reader’s imagination. Passing along, therefore,

-on either side we come, soon after the head of

-the loch, to bonny little Strathyre, lying amid its

-great hills, which are flushed as if with fire when

-the setting sun catches the sweep of the heather

-in season.</p>

-

-<p>Only a few miles beyond Strathyre is Balquhidder,

-lying on the road to Loch Voil. The

-loch lies in a very beautiful situation at the foot

-of the range known as the Braes of Balquhidder,

-culminating in Ben A’an and Ben More. It is

-on the property of Mr. Carnegie, whose house,

-Stronvar, is at the east side. In the adventurous

-journey made by the Wordsworths in the beginning

-of the nineteenth century, they actually

-walked over the mountains to Balquhidder from

-Loch Katrine by a wild, rough track, and at the

-foot of the hills waded through the river. Dorothy

-thus describes the scenery: “The mountains all

-round are very high; the vale pastoral and

-unenclosed, not many dwellings and but a few

-trees; the mountains in general smooth near the

-bottom. They are in large unbroken masses,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">{27}</a></span>

-combining with the vale to give an impression of

-bold simplicity.”</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="loch_lubnaig"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_27.jpg" width="800" height="561" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">LOCH LUBNAIG.</p>

-

-<p class="center">It was at the end of this loch that Angus handed the Fiery Cross to the Bridegroom.</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<p>There were a few reapers in the fields, and

-it was from this fact that Wordsworth was inspired

-to write his poem <cite>The Solitary Reaper</cite>.

-The brother and sister visited the graves at

-Balquhidder before passing on to Callander.</p>

-

-<p>It is said that when the freebooter Rob Roy

-lay dying in his own house at Balquhidder, his

-wife mocked at his repentance. He rebuked her,

-saying: “You have put strife betwixt me and

-the best men of the country, and now you

-would place enmity between me and my

-God.”</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">Rob Roy’s Grave</div>

-

-<p>The grave of Rob Roy is in the little old

-graveyard, and is only a few feet from the gate.

-There are rude sculptured figures on the flat

-stone, seemingly far older than the days of the

-freebooter, but possibly an old stone was used to

-mark the place where he at length rested after

-his roving life. This is not the only association

-that Balquhidder evokes, for it is mentioned in

-<cite>The Legend of Montrose</cite>, when the Clan Macgregor

-there agree to stand by the murderers

-of the King’s deer-keeper; and also in more

-modern fiction, when, in Stevenson’s <cite>Kidnapped</cite>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">{28}</a></span>

-poor David breaks down utterly at

-Balquhidder, and has to be guarded and cared

-for by his quaint comrade, Alan Breck.</p>

-

-<p>But, tempting as it is to wander farther up

-the glen, here we must stop, or we shall get

-too far from our legitimate route through the

-Trossachs.</p>

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div><div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">{29}</a></span></p>

-

-

-

-

-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a><br />

-<br />

-APPROACHES TO THE TROSSACHS</h2>

-

-

-<p><span class="smcap">The</span> route taken by the coaches leaves Callander

-in a northward direction, but soon turns off westward

-down a narrow muddy road forbidden to

-motor-cars; this runs beneath the shoulder of

-Ben Ledi.</p>

-

-<p>Ben Ledi means the Mount of God, and is

-believed to have been held sacred from the days

-when the Beltane mysteries were celebrated on it.

-Beltane was a Celtic festival celebrated about

-May 1 with fires and dances, and probably with

-sacrifices too. The scenery, however, is not as

-awe-inspiring as these weird memories would

-lead one to expect&mdash;in fact, for all this first part

-of the Trossachs’ round the traveller’s imagination

-must supply all the fire he needs. For instance,

-the very prosaic sluices erected by the Glasgow

-Water Company at the end of Loch Vennachar,

-which soon comes into view, mark the site of Coilantogle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">{30}</a></span>

-Ford, across which Roderick promised the

-King a safe-conduct, and where the two fought

-with such fury when the outlaw revealed himself.</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">The chief in silence strode before,</div>

-<div class="verse">And reach’d that torrent’s sounding shore</div>

-<div class="verse">Which, daughter of three mighty lakes,</div>

-<div class="verse">From Vennachar in silver breaks.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>The road passes all along the shores of Loch

-Vennachar, and where at the end there lies a

-meadow, embraced on the far side by the

-Finlas Water, we are at another classic spot,

-for this is Lanrick Mead, the meeting-place of

-the Macgregor clansmen. We can see very well

-why it should have been chosen, for it guards at

-its narrowest part the pass, and anyone approaching

-from the Callander&mdash;<i lang="la" xml:lang="la"><abbr title="id est">i.e.</abbr></i>, the Doune or

-Stirling direction&mdash;would be easily stopped,

-though it would be possible for men to come

-along the south side of Lochs Vennachar and

-Achray. The mead also commands the approach

-from the south via Aberfoyle, and any body of

-men coming down the hill on this side would be

-full in view. After this we arrive at the Brig o’

-Turk, a small bridge over the Finlas Water. It

-was close by here, at a few huts marking Duncraggan,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">{31}</a></span>

-that Malise delivered up the cross to

-Angus. But he had done his work well.</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">The fisherman forsook the strand,</div>

-<div class="verse">The swarthy smith took dirk and brand;</div>

-<div class="verse">With changèd cheer the mower blithe</div>

-<div class="verse">Left in the half-cut swathe the scythe;</div>

-<div class="verse">The herds without a keeper stray’d,</div>

-<div class="verse">The plough was in mid-furrow staid,</div>

-<div class="verse">The falc’ner tossed his hawk away,</div>

-<div class="verse">The hunter left the stag at bay;</div>

-<div class="verse">Prompt at the signal of alarms,</div>

-<div class="verse">Each son of Alpine rush’d to arms.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="brig_o_turk"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_30.jpg" width="800" height="572" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">BRIG O’ TURK AND BEN VENUE.</p>

-

-<p class="center">In the great stag hunt, with which Scott’s poem opens, it was at this point

-that “the headmost horseman rode alone.”</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<p>We are now right in the Trossachs proper, and

-find the huge, palatial hotel which goes by that

-name facing little Loch Achray.</p>

-

-<p>Having arrived at the junction of the roads&mdash;that

-is, the two principal approaches already

-noted&mdash;it is necessary to run over the ground

-from Aberfoyle before continuing the part

-through the Trossachs common to both routes.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">Aberfoyle</div>

-

-<p>Aberfoyle itself is full of associations, but they

-are nearly all connected with <cite>Rob Roy</cite>. It

-stands as a meeting-place of Highlands and Lowlands,

-and as such has seen many storms. The

-earlier part of the Forth, here known as the

-Laggan, runs past the town, and the old saying

-“Forth bridles the wild Highlandman” is full of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">{32}</a></span>

-significance. Of this district says Mr. Cunninghame

-Graham: “Nearly every hill and strath

-has had its battles between the Grahames and

-the Macgregors. Highlander and Lowlander

-fought in the lonely glens or on the stony hills,

-or drank together in the aqua-vitæ houses in the

-times of their precarious peace.”</p>

-

-<p>Far the most interesting scene laid at Aberfoyle,

-in all the realism of fiction, is that in <cite>Rob

-Roy</cite>, when Bailie Nicol Jarvie, and young

-Osbaldistone arrived, wearied out, seeking shelter

-at the primitive Clachan, and were refused because

-“three Hieland shentlemens” wanted the

-place to themselves. The landlady said her

-house was taken up “wi’ them wadna like to be

-intruded on wi’ strangers,” an objection for which

-there was probably strong underlying reason!</p>

-

-<p>The row that subsequently took place when

-the stout little Bailie defended himself with the

-red-hot coulter of a plough is too well known to

-need quotation. Suffice it to say, in evidence of

-the truth of the story, that a coulter, traditionally

-said to be the very weapon, hangs on a tree

-outside the hotel, which bears his name, to this

-very day.</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="heart_of_the_trossachs"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_32.jpg" width="800" height="567" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">IN THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS.</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Pass of Aberfoyle</div>

-

-<p>The pass which leads by Lochs Ard and Chon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">{33}</a></span>

-north-westward to Stronachlachar has been much

-used at all times, and has seen desperate forays, but

-none perhaps more desperate than that described

-in <cite>Rob Roy</cite> when the Bailie and Osbaldistone,

-unwillingly setting forth up it with an escort

-of soldiery, were attacked from the heights above

-by the redoubtable Helen Macgregor and her

-men, and very narrowly escaped death. Scott

-thus describes the pass:</p>

-

-<p>“Our route, though leading toward the lake,

-had hitherto been so much shaded by wood that

-we only from time to time obtained a glimpse of

-that beautiful sheet of water. But the road now

-suddenly emerged from the forest ground, and,

-winding close by the margin of the loch,

-afforded us a full view of its spacious mirror,

-which now, the breeze having totally subsided,

-reflected in still magnificence the high dark

-heathy mountains, huge grey rocks and shaggy

-banks, by which it is encircled. The hills now

-sank on its margin so closely, and were so

-broken and precipitous, as to afford no passage

-except just upon the narrow line of the track

-which we occupied and which was overhung

-with rocks, from which we might have been

-destroyed merely by rolling down stones, without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">{34}</a></span>

-much possibility of offering resistance. Add

-to this that as the road winded round every promontory

-and bay which indented the lake, there

-was rarely a possibility of seeing a hundred yards

-before us.”</p>

-

-<p>It was when the party had reached a spot

-where the path rose in zigzags and made its

-slippery way across the face of a steep slaty cliff

-that they suddenly discovered they were in an

-ambuscade under the command of Helen Macgregor

-herself. The desperate fight that

-followed, all in favour of the outlaws who commanded

-the situation; the ludicrous plight of the

-fat little Bailie, who, caught by the back of the

-coat on a projecting thorn-bush, swung in mid-air,

-“where he dangled not unlike the sign of

-the Golden Fleece over the door of a mercer in

-the Trongate of his native city”&mdash;are not these

-things writ in the ever-enduring pages of <cite>Rob

-Roy</cite>? More awful was the doom of Morris the

-Gauger, or Exciseman, who was dragged out,

-condemned as a spy, and drowned by the aid of

-a large stone bound in a plaid about his neck.

-“Half naked and thus manacled, they hurled

-him into the lake, there about twelve feet deep,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">{35}</a></span>

-with a loud halloo of vindictive triumph,

-above which, however, his last death shriek,

-the yell of mortal agony, was distinctly

-heard.”</p>

-

-<p>The lake thus woven into the tale is supposed

-to be Loch Ard. The Falls of Ledard, at the

-north-western end, are the falls described by

-Scott in <cite>Waverley</cite>, as he himself has owned,

-though it must be confessed in so doing he

-lifted them from their setting. Flora MacIvor’s

-song&mdash;</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">There is mist on the mountain and night on the vale,</div>

-<div class="verse">But more dark is the sleep of the sons of the Gael</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>&mdash;is descriptive of this scenery.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">“Rebels and Mossers”</div>

-

-<p>But the Pass of Aberfoyle has scenes of real

-history to tell as well as those of fiction. General

-Monk led his men through it after addressing a

-letter to the Earl of Airth, desiring him to have

-the woods in certain districts of Aberfoyle cut

-down, because they were “grete shelters to the

-rebels and mossers.”</p>

-

-<p>In the pass, also, the Earl of Glencairn and

-Graham of Duchray defeated some of the Cromwellian

-soldiers, and, adds Mr. Cunninghame<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">{36}</a></span>

-Graham in recounting the incident, “Graham of

-Duchray no doubt fought all the better because

-the Cromwellians had burnt his house the night

-before the action, in order to show him that it

-was unwise to attach too much importance to

-mere houses built with hands.”</p>

-

-<p>Aberfoyle is supposed to be peculiarly haunted

-by the “little folk”&mdash;<i lang="la" xml:lang="la"><abbr title="id est">i.e.</abbr></i>, the fairies&mdash;a reputation

-it gained from a seventeenth-century minister,

-who was supposed to be in league with them.

-He is frequently mentioned by Scott, and the

-fairy knowe, opposite the hotel, on which he

-sank down dead, called back to the fairyland he

-loved so well, is still pointed out. He,</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">When the roaring Garry ran</div>

-<div class="verse indent2">Red with the life-blood of Dundee,</div>

-<div class="verse">When coats were turning, crowns were falling,</div>

-<div class="verse indent2">Wandered along his valley still,</div>

-<div class="verse">And heard their mystic voices calling</div>

-<div class="verse indent2">From fairy knowe and haunted hill.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<div class="sidenote">Lake of Menteith</div>

-

-<p>Not less interesting than the west side is the

-country lying east of Aberfoyle, where, at about an

-equal distance, is the lake of Menteith. As significant

-of the wildness of the place in bygone days,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">{37}</a></span>

-we may note that one Earl of Menteith declared

-war against “all but the kinge and those of the

-name of Grahame.” Menteith was from earliest

-times one of the five great districts into which

-Scotland was divided. The Earls of Menteith

-(Grahams) were ever at feud with the warlike

-Macgregors, and, as often happens, the feuds raged

-worst just on the borders of the Highlands,

-where men might attack and retreat in safety,

-knowing every track which led into their wild

-fastnesses.</p>

-

-<p>The lake of Menteith is about two miles by

-one, and it is curious to note this is the only

-<em>lake</em> in Scotland. On it is an island, where the

-Earls had their residence. Another island, called

-Inchmahone, is, however, more interesting still.

-The word means “Isle of Rest,” and such it was

-found by the monks who lived here in ages long

-gone past. Ruins are left, a moulded doorway,

-a fine monument, to tell of their occupation, but

-“gone are the Augustinian monks who built the

-stately island church. Out of the ruined chancel

-grows a plane-tree, which is almost ripe. In the

-branches rooks have built their nests, and make as

-cheerful matins as perhaps the monks themselves.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">{38}</a></span>

-The giant chestnuts, grown, as tradition says,

-from chestnuts brought from Rome, are all stag-headed.

-Ospreys used to build in them in the

-memory of those still living. Gone are the

-'Riders of Menteith’ (if they ever existed); the

-ruggers and the reivers are at one with those they

-harried. The Grahams and Macgregors, the

-spearmen and the jackmen, the hunters and the

-hawkers, the livers by their spurs, the luckless

-Earls of Menteith and their retainers, are buried

-and forgotten, and the tourist cracks his biscuit

-and his jest over their tombs” (Cunninghame

-Graham).</p>

-

-<p>The “Riders of Menteith” are spoken of in

-history, but whether, as Mr. Graham asks, they

-were mortal riders or a sort of <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Walküren</i>, sacred

-to the Valhalla of the district, history does not

-enlighten us.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Four Maries</div>

-

-<p>Queen Mary, as a little girl of five, was

-brought to the island of Inchmahone after the

-Battle of Pinkie, and lived here for a whole year,

-until she went to France to be betrothed to the

-Dauphin. Her childish dreams beneath the

-great chestnuts can have contained no shadow of

-the stormy life and fearful end that awaited her.

-She was even at that time accompanied by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">{39}</a></span>

-“four Maries” who attended on her, one of

-whom, Mary Hamilton, met the tragic fate of

-execution.</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Last nicht there were four Maries,</div>

-<div class="verse indent2">This nicht there’ll be but three:</div>

-<div class="verse">There was Mary Beaton and Mary Seaton,</div>

-<div class="verse indent2">And Mary Carmichael and me.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>The road from Aberfoyle to the Trossachs

-rises very steeply past some slate-quarries. As

-we rise the hills come into view&mdash;Ben Ledi and

-Ben Venue, with Ben Lomond dominating all

-the landscape; Ben Voil peeping over Ben

-Lawers; and on the clearest days, far in the

-distance, Ben Nevis, Schiehallion, and many

-others. Far below to the right lies Loch

-Drunkie, and much nearer the desolate little

-tarn called Loch Reoichte, which signifies

-“frozen,” and this among them all for desolate

-beauty stands first. Close by the road is a drinking-fountain,

-called “Rob Roy’s Well,” where

-the tourist is invited to slake his thirst, though

-the real well, to which the tradition attaches, is

-away from the road, above the slate-quarries on

-Craig Vadh. On the ridge of this same Craig

-Vadh, by the way, are curious cairns, covering<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">{40}</a></span>

-the spot where the bodies of those slain in a

-Border foray were found. When the road at

-length descends we have the pleasing duty of

-paying an impost, or toll, for the use of it&mdash;and by

-no means a low one either&mdash;and thus we come to

-Loch Achray and the Trossachs Hotel, and pick

-up the thread where it was dropped.</p>

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div><div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">{41}</a></span></p>

-

-

-

-

-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a><br />

-<br />

-THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS</h2>

-

-

-<p><span class="smcap">As</span> we have heard the Trossachs signifies “bristled

-territory,” a suitable name enough, and as they

-have been described by the master himself, there

-would be little use in trying to improve upon

-his words, which are as follows:</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">With boughs that quaked at every breath,</div>

-<div class="verse">Grey birch and aspen wept beneath;</div>

-<div class="verse">Aloft, the ash and warrior oak</div>

-<div class="verse">Cast anchor in the rifted rock;</div>

-<div class="verse">And, higher yet, the pine-tree hung</div>

-<div class="verse">His shattered trunk, and frequent flung,</div>

-<div class="verse">Where seem’d the cliffs to meet on high,</div>

-<div class="verse">His boughs athwart the narrow’d sky.</div>

-<div class="verse">Highest of all where white peaks glanced,</div>

-<div class="verse">Where glistening streamers waved and danced,</div>

-<div class="verse">The wanderer’s eye could barely view</div>

-<div class="verse">The summer heaven’s delicious blue;</div>

-<div class="verse">So wondrous wild, the whole might seem</div>

-<div class="verse">The scenery of a fairy dream.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<div class="sidenote">Dorothy Wordsworth</div>

-

-<p>It must be remembered that the beautiful even<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">{42}</a></span>

-road which now runs through the heart of this

-fairyland was a work of great difficulty and cost.

-It has been hewn out of the side of the rock,

-and built up by the side of the loch in order to

-facilitate the constant stream of tourists. At first

-there were several wild pathways leading down

-to Loch Katrine through a perfect wilderness of

-boughs and undergrowth, and at the end a precipitous

-drop over the edge of a steep crag, only

-scaled by the aid of a sort of natural ladder of

-saplings and tendrils, and it is thus that Scott

-makes Fitz-James approach the loch. In the

-beginning of the nineteenth century, however,

-when Dorothy Wordsworth and her brother

-reached the Trossachs from Loch Katrine, a

-great improvement had taken place. When

-nearing the end of the lake, she says, they came

-in sight of two huts, which had been built by

-Lady Perth as a shelter for visitors. “The

-huts stand at a small distance from each other,

-on a high and perpendicular rock, that rises from

-the bed of the lake. A road, which has a very

-wild appearance, has been cut through the rock;

-yet even here, among these bold precipices, the

-feeling of excessive beautifulness overcomes every

-other.”</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="the_silver_strand"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_43.jpg" width="800" height="579" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">THE SILVER STRAND, LOCH KATRINE.</p>

-

-<p class="center">Where Scott describes the meeting between Fitz-James and Ellen of the Isle.</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">{43}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>In her there was already that new appreciation

-of the natural beauty which her brother was to

-do so much to encourage in all. Her description

-of the Trossachs, after they had landed, clearly

-shows this: “Above and below us, to the right

-and to the left, were rocks, knolls, and hills,

-which, whenever anything could grow&mdash;and that

-was everywhere between the rocks&mdash;were

-covered with trees and heather. The trees did

-not in any place grow so thick as an ordinary

-wood, yet I think there was never a bare space of

-twenty yards; it was more like a natural forest,

-where the trees grow in groups or singly, not

-hiding the surface of the ground, which, instead

-of being green and mossy, was of the richest

-purple. The heather was indeed the most

-luxuriant I ever saw; it was so tall that a child

-of ten years old struggling through it would

-often have been buried head and shoulders, and

-the exquisite beauty of the colour, near or at a

-distance, seen under the trees is not to be conceived.”</p>

-

-<p>And as it was then so it is now: a better

-description of the peculiar scenery of the Trossachs

-could hardly be given, especially if we add the

-detail that bog-myrtle and birches grow abundantly,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">{44}</a></span>

-adding to the fragrance and poetry of the

-place. Winding round to the right runs the

-road to the Silver Strand, now much covered by

-the rising of the water owing to the precautions

-taken by the Glasgow Waterworks, which gets

-its supply from Loch Katrine. Here Fitz-James

-is supposed to have stood. Right in front is

-Ellen’s Isle, thickly wooded; behind it rises the

-vast shoulder of Ben Venue, and away to the

-right stretches westward the full length of the

-lake, broken by promontories,</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Where, gleaming with the setting sun,</div>

-<div class="verse">One burnish’d sheet of living gold,</div>

-<div class="verse">Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll’d;</div>

-<div class="verse">In all her length far winding lay,</div>

-<div class="verse">With promontory, creek and bay,</div>

-<div class="verse">And islands that, empurpled bright,</div>

-<div class="verse">Floated amid the livelier light;</div>

-<div class="verse">And mountains, that like giants stand,</div>

-<div class="verse">To sentinel enchanted land.</div>

-<div class="verse">High on the south, huge Ben Venue</div>

-<div class="verse">Down to the lake in masses threw</div>

-<div class="verse">Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurl’d,</div>

-<div class="verse">The fragments of an earlier world.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>In the whole of a justly celebrated poem there

-is no passage finer than this, and, oft quoted as it

-has been, it would be impossible to omit it.</p>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">{45}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>Ellen’s Isle is, of course, so named after Scott’s

-heroine; the Highland name is Eilean Molach,

-meaning the “Shaggy Island,” and it is quite

-likely that with this in his mind Scott chose

-the name Ellen as the nearest English-sounding

-equivalent.</p>

-

-<p>The Goblin’s Cave, to which Ellen and her

-family retreated, is on the side of Ben Venue,

-and above is the Bealach Nambo, or the Pass of

-the Cattle, which Scott alluded to as:</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">The dell upon the mountain’s crest</div>

-<div class="verse">Yawned like a gash on warrior’s breast.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>This can be reached on foot by a not too difficult

-walk, but most people prefer to view it from

-below. The Goblin’s Cave is impossible of

-exact identification, if, indeed, it had any actual

-prototype.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">Loch Katrine</div>

-

-<p>It has been suggested that the name of Loch

-Katrine arose from the hordes of robbers, or

-caterans, who infested its shores. If this be so,

-the name has been softened into something much

-more appropriate to the loveliness of the scenery,

-which is at its best at the east end. The

-Wordsworth party, indeed, coming from the

-other end, were at first disappointed. As the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">{46}</a></span>

-only means of transit was by a small row-boat,

-Coleridge was afraid of the cold and walked along

-the northern shore from Glengyle, though not,

-of course, on the well-made-up road which runs

-part of the way at present. Wordsworth himself

-slept in the bottom of the boat, which they had

-procured with much difficulty, and told his sister

-to awake him if anything worth seeing occurred.

-It was not until they nearly reached the eastern

-end that she did this, though then she confessed

-that what they saw was “the perfection of

-loveliness and beauty.”</p>

-

-<p>The lake is about eight miles long by three-quarters

-broad, but the actual width varies very

-much, owing to the numerous indentations. The

-road on the northern shore runs to Glengyle, but

-there stops, so that the only means of getting

-right on to Loch Lomond is to take the steamer,

-which awaits tourists several times daily. No

-doubt a road by which cyclists could travel on their

-own account would be strenuously resisted in the

-neighbourhood, where the chief aim and object of

-the tourist’s being is supposed to be to pay for

-everything. On the southern side the steepness

-of the precipices of Ben Venue prevents any

-possibility of a road.</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="loch_katrine"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_46.jpg" width="800" height="605" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN’S ISLE.</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">{47}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>Opposite to Ben Venue, and best seen from the

-lake itself, is Ben A’an, only 1,750 feet in height.

-At the north-west end of Loch Katrine is Glengyle,

-the hereditary burial-place of the Macgregors.</p>

-

-<p>The steamer stops at Stronachlachar, about

-three-quarters of the way down the lake on

-the south side, and here a coach meets it to

-convey passengers across to Inversnaid, on Loch

-Lomond.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">“Stepping Westward”</div>

-

-<p>With Loch Katrine the scenes identified with

-<cite>The Lady of the Lake</cite> come to an end. The

-road to Loch Lomond passes over a wild, rough

-heath, in strong contrast to the wooded loveliness

-of the eastern end of Loch Katrine, but quite as

-attractive to some natures, especially when the

-soft grey clouds lie low and the russets and

-browns of the bracken and heather replace

-the rich glory of its purple robe. It was hereabouts

-that the Wordsworths, when returning to

-Lomond, were greeted by two Highland women,

-who said in a friendly way: “What! you are

-stepping westward”&mdash;a simple sentence which

-gave Wordsworth the inspiration for the poem

-which he wrote long afterwards beginning with

-the same words.</p>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">{48}</a></span></p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Real Rob Roy</div>

-

-<p>Loch Arklet lies very flat between its shores,

-and has no beauty except its wildness. At one end

-lived for some time Rob Roy and his wife;

-indeed, all this district, right up to Glen Falloch

-on the one side, and down to the shoulders of

-Ben Lomond on the other, is associated with the

-outlaw, of whom Scott made a hero. The

-district has also associations with a much greater

-than he, for it is redolent of the wanderings of

-Robert the Bruce, when he was hunted by his

-bitter enemies, the men of Lorn.</p>

-

-<p>It is supposed that Roderick Dhu in Scott’s

-poem was a shadowy form of Rob Roy, who is

-more developed in the book which was published

-seven years later. Both were of uncommon

-personal strength, both were cattle-lifters and outlaws,

-both were of the great clan of Macgregor,

-and there are minor resemblances.</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="ben_aan"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_49.jpg" width="800" height="553" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">BEN A’AN (Seen from Loch Katrine).</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<p>Rob’s designation was “of Inversnaid,” and he

-owned Craig Royston, a district lying east of

-Lomond, near the north end. He began as a man

-of property and a land-holder, rough and poor as

-his territory was. He went on to be a cattle-dealer

-on a large scale, and this turned to something

-more nefarious. A distraint was levied on

-his property, and he had to leave the shores of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">{49}</a></span>

-Lomond. To this fact is attributed the wild

-piper’s tune of “The Lament of Rob Roy,”

-composed by his wife, which has something of

-the mournful beauty of the country incorporated

-in its weird strains:</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Through the depths of Loch Lomond the steed shall career,</div>

-<div class="verse">O’er the heights of Ben Lomond the galley shall steer,</div>

-<div class="verse">And the rocks of Craig Royston like icicles melt,</div>

-<div class="verse">Ere our wrongs be forgot, or our vengeance unfelt.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>Rob seems to have been in some way a Robin

-Hood, exercising generosity toward those poorer

-and weaker than himself, and he was greatly

-beloved by the people in consequence. Many a

-ballad is connected with his name, and he became

-a popular hero even before his death. He took

-part in 1715 Rebellion on the Jacobite side, and

-at the Battle of Sheriffmuir seems to have been

-afflicted with the peculiar indecision that paralyzed

-both sides on that memorable day. He was

-leading, beside his own clan, a party of Macphersons,

-whose chief was too infirm to take the field,

-and he retained his station on a hill, though

-positively ordered by the Earl of Mar to charge.

-It is said that this charge might have decided the

-day. This incident is embodied in the ballad on

-the occasion:</p>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">{50}</a></span></p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse indent4">Rob Roy he stood watch</div>

-<div class="verse indent4">On a hill for to catch</div>

-<div class="verse">The booty for aught that I saw, mon;</div>

-<div class="verse indent4">For he ne’er advanced</div>

-<div class="verse indent4">From the place where he stanced</div>

-<div class="verse">Till nae mair was to do there at a’, mon.</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>It is impossible to give even an account of

-all Rob’s pranks, some of which are doubtless

-mythical, and others which do not greatly redound

-to his credit. He had certainly that

-picturesque personality which has attracted

-romancers in all ages, and he formed a very

-fitting subject for Scott’s pen.</p>

-

-<p>In the end he turned Roman Catholic, and

-died, as already stated, at Balquhidder.</p>

-

-<p>The road drops very steeply down to Lomond,

-and passes the earthworks which mark the site of

-a fort built by William III. to overawe the

-rebels. The fort, being on the great outlaw’s

-property, was an object of peculiar hatred. Twice

-it was surprised and taken&mdash;once by Roy himself

-and once by his nephew. It is said that at one

-time General, then Captain, Wolfe was in command

-of it.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Highland Girl</div>

-

-<p>The little stream Arklet dances and brawls

-over its bed, in its descent accompanying the road,

-and at length leaps into the lake by a splendid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">{51}</a></span>

-waterfall thirty feet in height. Close by this is

-the palatial hotel at Inversnaid, a brother to the

-one at the Trossachs. When the Wordsworths

-arrived here the first time, after having with great

-difficulty got across Loch Lomond in a row-boat,

-they found only a miserable ferry-house, with a

-mud floor, and rain coming in at the roof. It

-was here that Wordsworth saw the prototype of

-his “sweet Highland girl.”</p>

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div><div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">{52}</a></span></p>

-

-

-

-

-<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a><br />

-<br />

-LOMOND AND THE MACGREGORS</h2>

-

-

-<div class="sidenote">Ben Lomond</div>

-

-<p><span class="smcap">Lomond</span> is one of the two most magnificent lochs

-in Scotland. It is twenty-one miles long, its

-only rival being Loch Awe, which is three miles

-longer. It is of a curious wedge shape, being

-about five miles broad at the low end and

-narrowing to a point in the north. In the

-widest part it bears a perfect archipelago of

-islands, once thickly populated, but now left

-mostly to deer and other wild creatures. There

-is a tradition of a floating island, repeated by

-many an ancient traveller; but all trace of this

-phenomenon has vanished&mdash;if, indeed, it ever

-existed. The fishing in the loch is free, and

-salmon, sea-trout, lake-trout, pike, and perch are

-to be caught. The nearness of the great lake to

-Glasgow is at once an advantage and a drawback.

-It is an advantage for the thousands that pour out

-of the grimy city on every holiday, and, at half<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">{53}</a></span>

-an hour from their own doors, for a trifling

-sum, can spend joyous days in scenery which can

-be classed with the most beautiful in the world.

-But it is certainly not an unmixed joy to the real

-lover of Nature, who approaches the lake in a

-spirit of worship, to find the shores black with

-people and the steamers thronged with tourists.

-The attractions pointed out to those who pass up

-or down the great sheet of water are various. Not

-the least is the giant Ben, who raises his proud

-head on the eastern side, “a sort of Scottish

-Vesuvius, never wholly without a cloud-cap.

-You cannot move a step that it does not tower

-over you. In winter a vast white sugar-loaf; in

-summer a prismatic cone of yellow and amethyst

-and opaline lights; in spring a grey, gloomy,

-stony pile of rocks; in autumn a weather indicator,

-for when the mist curls down its sides and

-hangs in heavy wreaths from its double summit,

-‘it has to rain,’ as the Spaniards say.”</p>

-

-<p>The mountain is 3,192 feet high, and the

-ascent is not difficult; by the gradually sloping

-way from the hotel at Rowardennan it is about

-five or six miles, without any very stiff climbing,

-and there is a choice of other routes. On a

-clear day, which is a rare boon, the view from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">{54}</a></span>

-the summit is superb. Sitting on its topmost

-pinnacle, one looks down the almost perpendicular

-north-eastern slope into the little valley where

-the River Forth may be said to take its rise. On

-the western side Loch Lomond stretches out in

-full length, and across the narrow isthmus of

-Tarbet is the sea-loch, Loch Long. Far away to

-the east and south the eye may range over the

-Lothians, Edinburgh, and Arthur’s Seat, and even

-to the distant hills of Cumberland and the Isle of

-Man; while farther west, backed by the Irish

-coast, is the whole scenery of the beautiful Clyde

-estuary and the nearer Hebrides. Northward,

-peak after peak, rise the stately masses of the

-Grampians.</p>

-

-<p>Leaving Inversnaid, the first point to which

-attention is usually drawn is the cave in the

-corries on the east side, called Rob Roy’s Cave;

-much farther down the loch, amid the screes of

-Ben Lomond, is another hole, called Rob Roy’s

-Prison. The Island Vow, midway across the

-loch opposite Inversnaid, owes its name to a

-corruption of Eilean Vhow, meaning the

-Brownies’ Isle, a fascinating enough name to

-a child. On the island are some remains of the

-Macfarlanes’ stronghold. Wordsworth’s poem<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">{55}</a></span>

-<cite>The Brownie</cite> originated with this island. On

-the farther shore, a little more northward, there

-is what is called the Pulpit Rock, a cell cut out

-on the face of the cliff so that it could be used

-for open-air preaching.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Macfarlanes</div>

-

-<p>Right opposite is Ben Voirlich, and, in its

-fastnesses, wild Loch Sloy, whose name formed

-the war-cry of the Macfarlanes.</p>

-

-<p>The reputation of this clan was not far behind

-the Macgregors as far as desperate courage and

-mad savagery count. Their headquarters were

-at first on the Isle of Inveruglas, just near the outflow

-of that stream into the loch; then they

-moved to the Brownies’ Island, doubtless finding

-the near neighbourhood of their hereditary

-enemies, the men of Lorn, too dangerous; but

-subsequently, becoming bolder, they went to

-Tarbet, and there settled.</p>

-

-<p>The name Tarbet means draw-boat, and the

-story goes that Haco, King of Norway, in 1263

-entered Loch Long, and, sailing up it, made his

-men drag the long flat-bottomed boats across the

-isthmus, and launch them on Loch Lomond, in

-order that he might the more easily attack the

-people on its shores for plunder.</p>

-

-<p>The next point of interest is the promontory<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">{56}</a></span>

-of Luss, which gives its name to Colquhoun of

-Luss, whose seat is on the next most beautiful

-wooded promontory at Rossdhu. This family is

-one of the most ancient on record, being able to

-trace its ancestry back to the Colquhouns in

-1190 and the Lusses in 1150, which two

-families were united in the main line by the

-marriage of a Colquhoun with the heiress of

-Luss about 1368. Mrs. Walford, the well-known

-novelist, is a scion of this family. The

-present mansion was built about the end of the

-eighteenth century, but a fragment of the old

-ancestral home is still standing. Not far off are

-Court Hill and Gallows Hill, where the chieftain

-tried delinquents, and where justice was meted

-out to them. The slogan of the clan means

-“Knoll of the willow.”</p>

-

-<p>Across the loch, on the opposite side, is Ross

-Priory, where Scott was staying with his friend

-Hector Macdonald when he wrote part of <cite>Rob

-Roy</cite>.</p>

-

-<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="loch_lomond"></a>

-<img src="images/illus_fp_56.jpg" width="800" height="565" alt="" />

-<div class="caption"><p class="center">LOCH LOMOND (Looking towards Glen Falloch).</p>

-

-<p class="center">It is one of the largest lakes in Scotland, and forms part of the famous Trossachs round.</p></div>

-</div>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Islands</div>

-

-<p>Just about here we are in a perfect world of

-islands, some of which&mdash;notably Inchmurrin&mdash;are

-preserved as a deer-park. At the south end

-are the ruins of a castle once inhabited by the

-Earls of Lennox, who belonged to the Macfarlane<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">{57}</a></span>

-clan. Here Isabel, Duchess of Albany, retired

-when her father, husband, and sons had been

-executed at Stirling in 1424. Of the other

-islands, we have the names of Inchchlonaig,

-meaning the Island of Yew-trees, on which the

-yews are said to have been planted by Robert

-Bruce to furnish bows for his archers; Inchtavannach,

-or Monks’ Island; Inchcruin, Round

-Island; Inchfad, Long Island; and Inchcaillach,

-the Island of Women, from a nunnery once

-established here. This is close to the Pier of

-Balmaha, where is the entrance to a pass over

-the mountains, a well-known road in the old

-days of tribal war and bloodshed.</p>

-

-<p>The Wordsworths landed on Inchtavannach,

-and climbed to the top of it. Here is Dorothy’s

-description: “We had not climbed far before

-we were stopped by a sudden burst of prospect,

-so singular and beautiful that it was like a flash

-of images from another world. We stood with

-our backs to the hill of the island, which we

-were ascending, and which shut out Ben Lomond

-entirely and all the upper part of the lake, and

-we looked toward the foot of the lake, scattered

-over with islands, without beginning and without

-end. The sun shone, and the distant hills<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">{58}</a></span>

-were visible&mdash;some through sunny mists, others in

-gloom with patches of sunshine; the lake was

-lost under the low and distant hills, and the

-islands lost in the lake, which was all in motion,

-with travelling fields of light, or dark shadows

-under rainy clouds. There are many hills, but

-no commanding eminence at a distance to confine

-the prospect, so that the land seemed endless as

-the water.... Immediately under my eyes

-lay one large flat island bare and green ...

-another, its next neighbour, was covered with

-heath and coppice wood, the surface undulating....

-These two islands, with Inchtavannach,

-where we were standing, were intermingled

-with the water, I might say interbedded, and

-interveined with it, in a manner that was

-exquisitely pleasing. There were bays innumerable,

-straits or passages like calm rivers, land-locked

-lakes, and, to the main water, stormy

-promontories.”</p>

-

-<p>Not far from Rossdhu, on the west, is the

-entrance to Glen Fruin, the Glen of Weeping&mdash;a

-sad name, which turned out to be appropriate

-enough in view of the terrible scenes which

-happened here.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Macgregors</div>

-

-<p>The trouble began with the Macgregors.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">{59}</a></span>

-Their clan claimed descent from the third son of

-Alpine, King of the Scots, who lived about 787,

-and was therefore known by the alternative

-name of Clan Alpine. Their savage ways made

-them hated by their neighbours, and the Earls of

-Argyll and Breadalbane managed to obtain from

-the Government a right by charter to a great part

-of the lands belonging to the unfortunate clan.

-This, of course, was the signal for a fight to the

-death.</p>

-

-<p>From the time of Queen Mary onward various

-warrants were given to the other clans to make

-war on the unfortunate Macgregors, and to

-extirpate them as they would vermin. They

-were not only to be hounded out of existence,

-but the other clans were forbidden to supply

-them with the common necessaries of life. The

-climax was reached in the slaughter of Glen

-Fruin, which arose in this wise: Two of the

-Macgregors, being benighted, called at the house

-of one of the Colquhouns, and asked shelter.

-This was refused. They accordingly helped

-themselves to a sheep and supped off mutton,

-for which it is alleged they offered payment.

-The Laird of Luss seized them and had them

-both executed. Then the rest of the clan arose<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">{60}</a></span>

-in wrath, and, to the number of three or four

-hundred strong, marched down to Luss. Sir

-Humphrey Colquhoun, receiving warning of

-their advance, called together his clansmen and

-others, to double the number of the invaders, and

-advanced to meet them, doing so in Glen Fruin.</p>

-

-<p>The clan of the Macgregors charged the

-Colquhouns with fury, and, owing to the fact

-that part of the opposing force was mounted, and

-that the horses got mired in the boggy ground,

-they were able, notwithstanding their inferiority

-of numbers, to get the best of it, whereupon

-they set upon their flying foes and slaughtered

-them mercilessly.</p>

-

-<p>The event which, however, lives in memory

-longest is that of the action of a gigantic

-Macgregor, called Dugald Ciar Mohr, or the

-“great mouse-coloured man,” who was in charge,

-as their tutor, of a party of youths from

-Glasgow. It is said that, excited by the sound

-of his clansmen shouting their war-cry, or

-incensed by the remarks of the youths against

-his clan, he lost his head; anyway, he slew them

-all in cold blood.</p>

-

-<div class="sidenote">The Clerk’s Stone</div>

-

-<p>The great stone called Leck-a-Mhinisteir, the

-“minister or clerk’s stone,” is still pointed out as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">{61}</a></span>

-the place where this horrid deed was done, and

-it is said the stone was bathed red in the blood of

-the hapless boys. This Dugald was the ancestor

-of Rob Roy and his tribe.</p>

-

-<p>The terrible song put by Sir Walter Scott into

-the mouths of the Macgregor boatmen carries

-with it a wild cry of savagery:</p>

-

-<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">

-<div class="verse">Proudly our pibroch has thrilled in Glen Fruin,</div>

-<div class="verse indent2">And Bannacha’s groans to our slogan replied;</div>

-<div class="verse">Glen Luss and Rossdhu they are smoking in ruin;</div>

-<div class="verse indent2">And the best of Loch Lomond lie dead on its side.</div>

-<div class="verse indent6">Widow and Saxon maid</div>

-<div class="verse indent6">Long shall lament our raid,</div>

-<div class="verse">Think of Clan Alpine with fear and with woe;</div>

-<div class="verse indent6">Lennox and Leven Glen</div>

-<div class="verse indent6">Shake when they hear again</div>

-<div class="verse">Roderick vich Alpine dhu! ho feroe!</div>

-</div></div></div>

-

-<p>After this defeat the fury and wrath of the

-other clans, who were in favour at Court, may be

-imagined, and the widows of the slain men, to

-the number of several score, were sent, dressed

-in deep mourning, and riding upon white

-palfreys, carrying each her husband’s bloody

-shirt, to demand vengeance of King James VI.

-on the Macgregors. The Court was then at

-Stirling, and surely Stirling never saw a more

-woesome sight! The vengeance they obtained<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">{62}</a></span>

-was all that they could desire, for by an Act of

-Privy Council, dated April 3, 1603, the name of

-Macgregor was wiped out of the land, all those

-who bore it being compelled, under dire penalties,

-to adopt the name of some other clan; hence it

-was that Rob Roy was known as Rob Roy

-Macgregor Campbell. The Macgregors were forbidden

-to carry any weapons, and were otherwise

-penalized. The chief, Alistair Macgregor, who

-had led the fight at Glen Fruin, was seized, and

-hanged in 1604. Yet, in spite of these and

-other dire disabilities, the Macgregors continued

-to be Macgregors in heart, whatever they might

-call themselves, and held their heads as high as

-their own crest, a pine-tree. They attached

-themselves to the cause of King Charles in the

-Civil Wars, and were subsequently rewarded by

-the annulling of the Acts and having their

-rights restored to them.</p>

-

-<hr class="chap" /></div>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">{63}</a></span></p>

-

-

-

-

-<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h2>

-

-

-<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Aberfoyle, <a href="#Page_31">31-40</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Aberfoyle, Pass of, <a href="#Page_33">33-35</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Achray, Loch, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Alexander I., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ard, Loch, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Argyll, Duke of, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Arklet, Loch, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Arklet (stream), <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Balquhidder, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Bannockburn, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Bealach Nambo, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben A’an, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben Ledi, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben Lomond, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben More, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben Nevis, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben Vane, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben Venue, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben Voil, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ben Voirlich, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Brig o’ Turk, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Buchanan, George, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Callander, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Carnegie, Mr., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Coilantogle Ford, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Coleridge, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Colquhoun of Luss, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Craig Royston, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Craig Vadh, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Douglas, Earl of, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Drunkie, Loch, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Duncraggan, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Edward I., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Edward II., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ellen’s Isle, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Falloch, Glen, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Finlas Water, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Forth, The, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Glasgow Waterworks, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Glencairn, Earl of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Glen Fruin, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Glengyle, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Goblin’s Cave, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Graham of Duchray, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Grey, Sir Patrick, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Inchcaillach, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Inchchlonaig, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Inchcruin, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Inchfad, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Inchmahone, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Inchmurrin, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Inchtavannach, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Inversnaid, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Inveruglas, Isle, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Island Vow, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">James II., <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">James III., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">James IV., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">James V., <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">James VI., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Katrine, Loch, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx"><cite>Kidnapped</cite>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">King’s Knot, The, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst"><cite>Lady of the Lake, The</cite>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9-15</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx"><cite>Lady of the Lake, The</cite>, quoted, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Laggan Farm, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Lanrick Mead, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Ledard, Falls of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx"><cite>Legend of Montrose, The</cite>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Leny, Falls of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">{64}</a></span></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Leny, Pass of, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Lomond, Loch, <a href="#Page_52">52-62</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Lubnaig, Loch, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Macfarlane Clan, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Macgregor Clan, <a href="#Page_58">58-62</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Macgregor, Helen, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Mary Queen of Scots, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Menteith, Earls of, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Menteith, Lake of, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Reoichte, Loch, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Rob Roy, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48-50</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx"><cite>Rob Roy</cite>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31-34</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Robert the Bruce, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Rossdhu, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Routes, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Rowardennan, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">St. Bride’s Chapel, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Schiehallion, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Scott, Sir Walter, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Sheriffmuir, Battle of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Silver Strand, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Stirling, <a href="#Page_16">16-22</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Stirling Castle, <a href="#Page_18">18-22</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Strathyre, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Stronachlachar, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Tarbet, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Trossachs, The, <a href="#Page_41">41-46</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Trossachs Hotel, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst">Vennachar, Loch, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>

-

-

-<li class="ifrst"><cite>Waverley</cite>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Wolfe, Captain (General), <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>

-

-<li class="indx">Wordsworths, The, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li></ul>

-

-

-

-<hr class="tb" />

-

-<p class='center'>BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD</p>

-

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-<br />

-Page 10: Greame changed to Graeme.<br />

-<br />

-Illustration facing page 49: Kathrine changed to Katrine.<br />

-<br />

-Page 63: Glenfruin to Glen Fruin.]</p>

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-

-

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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Trossachs, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+Title: The Trossachs
+
+Author: Geraldine Edith Mitton
+
+Release Date: April 19, 2018 [EBook #57004]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TROSSACHS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<h1 class='faux'>THE TROSSACHS</h1>
+
+<div class="figcenter w500"><a id="cover"></a>
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="500" height="713" alt="" title="THE TROSSACHS by G. E. Mitton" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="full" /><div>
+
+<div class="figcenter w300">
+<img src="images/series.jpg" width="300" height="600" alt="In this series" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p class='ph3'><span class="smcap">In this Series</span></p>
+
+<ul class="pl4"><li>ABBOTSFORD</li>
+<li>CAMBRIDGE</li>
+<li>CANTERBURY</li>
+<li>CHANNEL ISLANDS</li>
+<li>ENGLISH LAKES</li>
+<li>FIRTH OF CLYDE</li>
+<li>ISLE OF ARRAN</li>
+<li>ISLE OF MAN</li>
+<li>ISLE OF WIGHT</li>
+<li>KILLARNEY</li>
+<li>LONDON</li>
+<li>OXFORD</li>
+<li>PEAK COUNTRY</li>
+<li>STRATFORD-ON-AVON</li>
+<li>  <ul><li>Leamington and Warwick</li></ul></li>
+
+<li>THAMES</li>
+<li>TROSSACHS</li>
+<li>NORTH WALES</li>
+<li>WESSEX</li>
+<li>WESTMINSTER ABBEY</li>
+<li>WINDSOR AND ETON</li></ul>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p class='center'>
+PUBLISHED BY<br />
+ADAM &amp; CHARLES BLACK<br />
+SOHO SQ., LONDON<br />
+</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter w600"><a id="frontispiece"></a>
+<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="600" height="830" alt="Frontispiece" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" /><div>
+
+<div class="figcenter w600">
+<img src="images/title.jpg" width="600" height="891" alt="" />
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="caption"><p class="center"><em>Beautiful Britain</em><br />
+<br />
+<em>The Trossachs</em><br />
+<br />
+<em>By</em><br />
+<br />
+<em>G. E. Mitton</em><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<em>London Adam &amp; Charles Black</em><br />
+<br />
+<em>Soho Square W</em><br />
+<em>1911</em></p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div><div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">{iii}</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</a></h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents">
+<tr><td align="left" colspan='2'>CHAPTER</td><td align="right">PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></span></td><td align="left">“<span class="smcap">The Lady of the Lake</span>”</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> <span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Royal City of Stirling</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">By the Route of the Fiery Cross to Balquhidder</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> <span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Approaches to the Trossachs</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Heart of the Trossachs</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> <span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Lomond and the Macgregors</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">{iv}</a></span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</a></h2>
+
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="List of Illustrations">
+<tr><td align="right"> 1.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#frontispiece">Birches by Loch Achray</a></span></td><td align="right"><em><a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></em></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"></td><td align="right" colspan='2'><span class="smalltext">FACING PAGE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> 2.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ben_venue">Beneath the Crags of Ben Venue</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#ben_venue">9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> 3.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#stirling_castle">Stirling Castle from the King’s Knot</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#stirling_castle">16</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> 4.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#loch_vennachar">Loch Vennachar</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#loch_vennachar">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> 5.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#loch_lubnaig">Loch Lubnaig</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#loch_lubnaig">27</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> 6.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#brig_o_turk">Brig o’ Turk and Ben Venue</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#brig_o_turk">30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> 7.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#heart_of_the_trossachs">In the Heart of the Trossachs</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#heart_of_the_trossachs">32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> 8.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#the_silver_strand">The Silver Strand</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#the_silver_strand">43</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"> 9.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#loch_katrine">Loch Katrine and Ellen’s Isle</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#loch_katrine">46</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#ben_aan">Ben A’an, seen from Loch Katrine</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#ben_aan">49</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#loch_lomond">Head of Loch Lomond</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#loch_lomond">56</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap"><a href="#cover">Silver Birches in the Trossachs</a></span></td><td align="right"><em><a href="#cover">On the cover</a></em></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">{5}</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div><div>
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a><br />
+<br />
+“THE LADY OF THE LAKE”</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> charm that lies in a mysterious name has
+been amply exemplified in that of the Trossachs,
+which is said to mean “bristled territory.”
+Something in the shaggy uncouthness of the
+word fits so well with the land of romance and
+mountain scenery that it has drawn tens of
+thousands to make the round between Glasgow
+and Edinburgh, by rail and coach and steamer,
+who, if the name had not been so mysteriously
+attractive, might never have bestirred themselves
+at all. Since the publication of <cite>Rob Roy</cite> and <cite>The
+Lady of the Lake</cite> the principal actors in these
+dramas have been just as real and important to
+the imaginative tourist as the familiar names of
+history. It is nothing to them that Rob Roy, of the
+clan of Macgregor, was merely a Highland thief:
+his character, invested by Scott with the charm of
+a magician’s pen, has made him as heroic as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">{6}</a></span>
+great Wallace himself; while Ellen, the Lady
+of the Lake, wholly born of the poet’s imagination,
+has become only second to Mary Queen
+of Scots.</p>
+
+<p>Scott has certainly done much for the land of
+his birth: not only has he enriched its literature
+for all time, and raised its literary standing in the
+eyes of nations, but he has done more for it
+commercially than almost any other writer has
+ever done for any country in bringing to it
+streams of visitors, especially from across the
+Atlantic. The gold flowing from the coffers of
+the Sassenach into the pouches of the Gael is
+a perennial blessing which could hardly have
+been secured in any other way.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">“The Lady of the Lake”</div>
+
+<p>We are told that on the appearance of <cite>The
+Lady of the Lake</cite>, “the whole country rang
+with the praises of the poet; crowds set off to
+view the scenery of Loch Katrine, till then comparatively
+unknown; and as the book came out
+just before the season for excursions, every house
+and inn in that neighbourhood was crammed
+with a constant succession of visitors. From the
+date of the publication of <cite>The Lady of the
+Lake</cite>, the post-horse duty in Scotland rose in an
+extraordinary degree, and it continued to do so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">{7}</a></span>
+for a number of years, the author’s succeeding
+works keeping up the enthusiasm for our scenery
+which he had originally created.”</p>
+
+<p>There are fairer spots in Scotland than the Trossachs,
+beautiful as they are; yet, notwithstanding
+this, their popularity remains unabated. The trip
+certainly has the advantage of being accessible; it
+can be “done” in a day from either Edinburgh
+or Glasgow, and this is a great recommendation
+to those who are going on to “do” Europe in
+record time. Then, again, anyone who has seen
+Edinburgh and the Trossachs is fairly safe in
+saying he has seen Scotland, whereas one of wider
+range, who had, say, gone up the Highland Railway
+to Inverness and returned via the Caledonian
+Canal, if unmindful of the Trossachs, would be
+taunted with his omission every time the subject
+was mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>However, the greatly increased facilities of
+steamer and rail do doubtless tend to send people
+farther afield, and the much longer round via the
+Caledonian Canal can count its hundreds where
+it previously counted units.</p>
+
+<p>Until Scott’s time the Trossachs were little
+known, but then the cult of scenery-worship as
+we know it had not been evolved. That they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">{8}</a></span>
+were somewhat known is shown in Dorothy
+Wordsworth’s <cite>Journal</cite>.</p>
+
+<p>When William Wordsworth, with his sister
+and the poet Coleridge, made a tour in 1803, they
+were met at Loch Katrine (coming from Loch
+Lomond) with stares of amusement from the peasants.
+“There were no boats,” says Dorothy in her
+<cite>Journal</cite>, “and no lodging nearer than Callander,
+ten miles beyond the foot of the lake. A laugh
+was on every face when William said we were
+come to see the Trossachs; no doubt they thought
+we had better have stayed at our own homes.
+William endeavoured to make it appear not so
+very foolish by informing them that it was a
+place much celebrated in England, though
+perhaps little thought of by them.” This was
+six years before the publication of the great
+poem.</p>
+
+<p>The Trossachs proper are the irregularly-shaped
+hills and rocks, covered with a thick growth of
+bristling firs, that lie between Loch Katrine and
+Loch Vennachar, and along the shores of little
+Loch Achray. But the name is generally taken
+to mean the whole round, including the traversing
+of Loch Lomond, as well as Loch Katrine,
+and the road journey.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w600"><a id="ben_venue"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_09.jpg" width="600" height="843" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">“BENEATH THE CRAGS OF BEN VENUE.”</p>
+
+<p class="center">The precipitous ascents from the south-east corner of Loch Katrine.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">{9}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Much the most usual route is from either
+Glasgow or Edinburgh, via Callander; but a
+secondary one, which has great attraction for
+some people, is that by Aberfoyle, which cuts
+into the heart of the Trossachs from the south.
+This has the disadvantage of missing Loch
+Vennachar; but, truth to tell, the coach drive
+along by Loch Vennachar is not beautiful, and
+were it not illumined by romantic imagination,
+and regarded as a prelude or epilogue to
+something better, it could easily be dispensed
+with.</p>
+
+<p>The outline of the story of <cite>The Lady of the
+Lake</cite> is supposed to be known to everyone,
+but there are few who could give it off-hand.
+The principal character, and the only one not
+fictitious, is that of James V. of Scotland, and his
+habit of wandering incognito among his people
+is used to further the plot. The poem opens with
+a stag-hunt, when the fine animal, after leading
+his pursuers a tremendous dance, plunges into
+the Trossachs and disappears from view. Only
+one horseman has been able to follow up the chase,
+and his steed at this juncture drops down dead,
+leaving his master to scramble onward to Loch
+Katrine as best he can. This he does, and as he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">{10}</a></span>
+stands on the shore he sees a boat rowed by a
+young girl rapidly approaching, coming out
+from a little island. She tells him he is expected&mdash;in
+fact, his visit has been foretold by a soothsayer,
+Allan Bane&mdash;and asks him to come to the island
+and receive the hospitality of her father’s house.
+She is Ellen, daughter to one of the outlawed
+Douglases, who have been in arms against their
+King.</p>
+
+<p>The girl’s mother receives the stranger
+courteously on his arrival, and he announces
+himself as James Fitz-James. He remains with
+them that night, and leaves next morning before
+the return of Douglas with Ellen’s young lover,
+Malcolm Graeme, and a powerful rebel, Roderick
+Dhu, the head of Clan MacAlpine, the Macgregors.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">An outlawed desperate man,</div>
+<div class="verse">The chief of a rebellious clan.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>This man tries to gain Ellen’s hand as the
+price of his support of her father, but his suit is
+unsuccessful.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Fiery Cross</div>
+
+<p>The next day, determined on a wild rising
+against the King, who is known to be at Stirling
+with his Court, Roderick sends the fiery cross<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">{11}</a></span>
+round to summon his followers to Lanrick Mead.
+The cross is made by the priest&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">A cubit’s length in measure due,</div>
+<div class="verse">The shaft and limbs were rods of yew.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>This was dipped in the blood of a slaughtered
+goat and scathed with flame. Then the priest
+shook it on high, shouting:</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">“Woe to the wretch who fails to rear</div>
+<div class="verse">At this dread sign the ready spear!</div>
+<div class="verse">For, as the flames this symbol sear,</div>
+<div class="verse">His home, the refuge of his fear,</div>
+<div class="verse">A kindred fate shall know.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse indent4">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Sunk be his home in embers red!</div>
+<div class="verse">And cursed be the meanest shed</div>
+<div class="verse">That e’er shall hide the houseless head.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse indent4">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Burst be the ear that fails to heed!</div>
+<div class="verse">Palsied the foot that shuns to speed!</div>
+<div class="verse">May ravens tear the careless eyes,</div>
+<div class="verse">Wolves make the coward heart their prize.”</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>Roderick’s servant, Malise, seizing the cross,
+starts off through the Trossachs, and along Loch
+Achray to Duncraggan, where he hands the
+symbol on to “Angus, heir of Duncan’s line,”
+who carries it along Vennachar and up to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">{12}</a></span>
+pass of Leny, passing it on to a bridegroom on
+Loch Lubnaig, and so it follows round all the
+haunts of the clan.</p>
+
+<p>Ellen and her father meantime retreat to a
+cave on Ben Venue. Here she accidentally meets
+again the fascinating stranger, who tries to
+persuade her to elope with him; but she tells
+him of her love for young Malcolm, and he
+honourably refrains from pressing his suit; instead
+he gives her a ring which, he says, was given
+him by the King, with a promise that on its
+production the King would fulfil any request of
+the wearer. Meantime he is being watched by
+Roderick Dhu as a spy, and Roderick sends a so-called
+guide to conduct him out of the labyrinth;
+but the guide is one of the clan Murdoch, who
+has secret orders to kill the stranger so soon as
+he gets him alone. The seer has proclaimed
+that whichever side first kills one of the other
+will win in the trial of strength now about to
+begin, and when Roderick hears this he rejoices
+to think that by treachery the lot will fall
+to him.</p>
+
+<p>Fitz-James, however, is warned by a half-witted
+woman wandering in the wood, and when
+he discloses his suspicions he is shot at by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">{13}</a></span>
+Murdoch, who, however, misses him and kills
+the woman instead. Fitz-James, furious at this
+barbarity, promptly kills him, and, cutting off a
+tress of the dying woman’s hair, swears to kill the
+chief, Roderick Dhu, the author of this foul
+deed, whenever he shall meet him. He wanders
+on in the wilderness of trees and rocks, and, as
+night is coming on, he loses himself.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Famished and chilled, through ways unknown,</div>
+<div class="verse">Tangled and steep, he journeyed on;</div>
+<div class="verse">Till, as a rock’s huge point he turned,</div>
+<div class="verse">A watch-fire close before him burned.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Fight</div>
+
+<p>Beside it is a huge Highlander, who is at first
+churlish and inclined to resent the intrusion; but
+the inbred virtue of hospitality conquers, and he
+allows the stranger to share his camp, promising
+to see him safe as far as Coilantogle Ford next
+morning. However, in the morning the two
+quarrel, and the great Highlander is revealed as
+Roderick Dhu himself. Roderick is furious at
+hearing of the death of Murdoch, but would
+have kept his word and given his guest safe-conduct
+had not Fitz-James, burning to be at
+him, absolved him from it, and they fight close
+by the ford. Just as Roderick is about to stab<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">{14}</a></span>
+his foe mortally he himself sinks down, overcome
+with loss of blood, and some men-at-arms from
+Stirling ride up, greeting Fitz-James as the King.
+They carry the senseless body of Roderick back
+with them to Stirling.</p>
+
+<p>When the King is once again in his own
+fortress games and sports take place, and Ellen’s
+father, who has dared to attend them incognito,
+reveals himself in a burst of temper and is
+captured.</p>
+
+<p>Ellen now makes her way to Stirling, carrying
+the ring, which proves an Open Sesame, and
+discovers to her astonishment the “knight in
+Lincoln green” who wooed her in the forest is
+no other than the monarch himself. James
+keeps his word, forgives her father, and pledges
+her to young Malcolm. Roderick, whose crimes
+would have made him difficult to pardon, conveniently
+dies, and the story finishes happily.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Scott in the Trossachs</div>
+
+<p>Scott was very particular that the scenery of
+his plot should be correct, and visited the
+Trossachs carefully, and even rode from Loch
+Vennachar to Stirling, to make sure of the possibility
+of the feat he attributed to Fitz-James.
+In view of the warlike nature of the poem,
+Lockhart remarks it was rather an odd coincidence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">{15}</a></span>
+that the first time Scott entered the
+Trossachs he did so “riding in all the dignity
+of danger, with a front and rear guard and loaded
+arms, to enforce the execution of a legal instrument
+against some Maclarens, refractory tenants
+of Stewart of Appin.”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div><div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">{16}</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a><br />
+<br />
+THE ROYAL CITY OF STIRLING</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">As</span> a good deal of the scene of the poem is laid
+at Stirling, and as most people will take the
+opportunity of breaking their journey at so
+classic a town, a few pages must be devoted to it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="stirling_castle"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_16.jpg" width="800" height="589" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">STIRLING CASTLE, FROM THE KING’S KNOT.</p>
+
+<p class="center">In 1304 the Castle was taken by the English after a three month’s siege, and held by them
+until the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The “Round Table”</div>
+
+<p>The rock on which the castle of Stirling
+stands is a most remarkable object in the landscape,
+jutting out with the precipitousness of a
+sea-cliff from the plain. It is absolutely inaccessible
+on the one side, but slopes away on the
+other, and it is on these slopes that the town
+stands. Many a visitor has grumbled at the
+long pull up through the narrow, and in some
+places squalid, streets before reaching the castle;
+but the reward is great, for the view is far-reaching.
+It may be best seen, however, from a
+place called the Ladies’ Rock in the churchyard,
+because there it includes the castle-rock on its
+steepest side. Here, also, there is to be found a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">{17}</a></span>
+plan of all the mountains by which they
+may be identified&mdash;Bens Ledi, Lomond, Vane,
+More, and Voirlich; also, down below, is a
+curious turf-garden, called the King’s Knot, said
+to have been the scene of the mimic games and
+contests of the Court. It was here Scott laid the
+scene of the games described in the poem, and
+with what redoubled interest can the account be
+read, when, having seen the place, memory can
+conjure up a mind-picture of it! This odd
+terracing is mentioned by Barbour, in describing
+the flight of Edward II. after Bannockburn, as
+the Round Table. It is within the bounds of
+possibility that it existed in the days of King
+Arthur, for centuries before Arthur’s time Stirling
+was a Roman station, and the King in his
+day is known to have been in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>The history of Stirling reaches back beyond
+all records. Long before Edinburgh had attained
+its position as capital of the kingdom, while it
+was still but a Border fortress, liable to be taken
+and retaken as English or Scots extended their
+territory, Stirling was one of the strongholds
+of the country. From time immemorial some
+fortress had stood on this impregnable position.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">{18}</a></span>
+In 1124 Alexander I. died here, so that it must
+then have been a fortress-palace, and in 1304
+the castle held out for three months against
+Edward I. of England. After it was taken it
+remained in the possession of England until the
+Battle of Bannockburn, and Bannockburn lies
+only about three miles from Stirling. Even the
+supine Edward II. wended his way so far north
+with the object of retaining such a desirable place.
+James III. was born here, and probably James IV.
+also, while James V., the hero of <cite>The Lady of
+the Lake</cite>, was crowned in the parish church as
+a toddling child of two. His much-discussed
+daughter, Queen Mary, passed the years of her
+childhood at the castle. Her little son James,
+who was destined to unite the two kingdoms,
+was baptized at the castle with tremendous ceremony,
+while his father, Darnley, sulked apart,
+and refused to take his proper position. Here
+James VI. and I. spent mainly the first thirteen
+years of his life, under the tutelage of the scholar
+George Buchanan, and it was only when he
+became King of England that Stirling ceased to
+be a royal residence.</p>
+
+<p>Of the origin of the name Stirling there is no
+certain record. In old records it is spelt Stryveling,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">{19}</a></span>
+Strivilin, and so on, through various minor
+alterations, wherefore it has sometimes been held
+to mean “strife,” a most appropriate signification.
+It used occasionally to be referred to also as
+Snowdon, a fact mentioned in Scott’s poem:</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse indent8">For Stirling’s Tower</div>
+<div class="verse">Of yore the name of Snowdon claims.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Wandering King</div>
+
+<p>By far the most striking part of the castle is
+the palace, which was begun by James IV. and
+finished by James V. This is in the form of a
+square, and is decidedly French in character,
+a fact attributed to the influence of his wife,
+Mary of Guise. Strange life-size figures project
+beneath arcades, and the carving is in some cases
+most weird and grotesque. James V. was very
+much associated with the castle. He was fond
+of assuming disguises and wandering about
+incognito among his people; for this purpose he
+sometimes took the name of the “Gudeman of
+Ballengeich,” Ballengeich being a road running
+below the castle walls. The songs “The Gaberlunzie
+Man” and “We’ll gang nae mair a-rovin”
+are said to have been founded on his exploits.
+He was renowned for his success with the fair
+sex, and altogether the rôle given to him by
+Scott fits him admirably.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">{20}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The castle is now occupied by a garrison, and
+the picturesque Highland dress of the men adds
+much as a foreground to the grey walls of the
+old buildings. An awkward squad may frequently
+be seen drilling in the courtyard, unkindly
+exposed to the eyes of passing visitors.
+In this square is the Parliament House, built by
+James III., and this is where the last Parliament
+in Scotland held its sittings.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Douglas Room</div>
+
+<p>The Douglas Room, reached by a narrow
+passage, will, however, claim most attention
+from those to whom history is a living thing.
+It was here that James II. stabbed the Earl of
+Douglas in 1452. The Douglases had so grown
+in power and influence, that it had begun to be
+a question whether Stuarts or Douglases should
+reign in Scotland. The King was afraid of the
+power of his mighty rivals, and accordingly
+invited the Douglas, the eighth Earl, to come as
+his guest to the castle for a conference. The
+Douglas came without misgiving, though it is
+said he demanded, and received, a safe-conduct.
+It was about the middle of January, and no
+doubt huge log fires warmed the inclement air
+in the great draughty halls where the party dined
+and supped with much appearance of cordiality<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">{21}</a></span>
+and goodwill, but beneath lay hate and terror
+and rancour, bitter as the grave.</p>
+
+<p>After supper the King drew Douglas aside to
+an inner chamber, and tried to persuade him to
+break away from the allies which threatened,
+with his house, to form a combination disastrous
+to the security of the throne. The Earl refused,
+and high words began to fly from one to the
+other. The King demanded that Douglas should
+break from his allies, and the Earl replied again he
+would not. “Then this shall!” cried the King,
+twice stabbing his guest with his own royal hand.
+Sir Patrick Grey, who was near by, came up and
+finished the job with a pole-axe, and then the
+body was thrown over into the court below. It
+was a gross violation of every law of decency
+even in those lawless days, and well the King
+must have known the storm his action would
+arouse. Burton, the historian of Scotland,
+adduces this as evidence that the crime was
+not meditated, but done in a mere fit of ungovernable
+rage. The murdered man’s four
+brothers surrounded and besieged the castle, and
+nailing to a cross in contempt the safe-conduct
+the King had given, trailed it through the miry
+streets tied to the tail of the wretchedest horse<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">{22}</a></span>
+they could find, thus publishing the ignominy
+of their Sovereign. They burnt and destroyed
+wherever they could, and the King had many
+years of strenuous warfare before him as a result
+of that night’s work.</p>
+
+<p>From the castle battlements the “bonny links
+of Forth” can be seen winding and looping and
+doubling on themselves, and also the old bridge,
+which was the key to the Highlands and the
+only dry passage across the Forth for centuries.
+This bridge is even older than any existing part
+of the castle. It has seen many desperate skirmishes,
+most notable of which was that of 1715,
+when the Duke of Argyll, with only 1,500 men,
+held here in check thousands of Highlanders.
+Here we must leave Stirling, without noting the
+rest of the old buildings, as this is no guide-book,
+and the city is merely looked upon as the key to
+the Trossachs and the scene of some of the drama
+enacted in <cite>The Lady of the Lake</cite>.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div><div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">{23}</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a><br />
+<br />
+BY THE ROUTE OF THE FIERY CROSS TO BALQUHIDDER</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Few</span> indeed of those who come up comfortably
+by rail to Callander, and step at once to a
+seat on a waiting four-horsed coach, adorned by
+a scarlet-coated driver and tootling horn, ever
+think of arriving a day sooner and exploring
+northward along the continuation of the single
+line which has brought them so far, or, better
+still, of going on northward by road through
+the Pass of Leny to beautiful little Strathyre for
+the night. Yet they miss much by not doing so,
+for at Balquhidder, a little beyond Strathyre, is
+the grave of Rob Roy and the reputed graves of
+his wife and son, while up the Pass of Leny
+itself was carried the fiery cross, so that the story
+of <cite>The Lady of the Lake</cite> is hardly complete
+without a visit to it.</p>
+
+<p>Few more beautiful passes are to be seen than<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">{24}</a></span>
+Leny. The dashing stream which runs in a
+wooded cleft below the road is exactly what one
+expects a Scottish stream to be. The brown
+peat-water breaks in cascades over huge grey
+weather-worn stones, or lies in deep clear pools.
+The irregularities of its course reveal new beauties
+at every turn: the dripping green ferns, for ever
+sprinkled with the spray, hang quivering over
+the agate depths, and the emerald moss, saturated
+like a sponge, softens the sharp angles of stones.
+Tufts of free-growing heather, large as bushes,
+add colour to the scene, and the slender white
+stems of the birches rise gracefully amid the
+gnarled alders and dark-needled firs. The Falls
+of Leny are reached by a footpath from the road.</p>
+
+<p>Angus, carrying the cross, was confronted by
+the stream, which divided him from the chapel
+of St. Bride, whose site is now marked by a small
+graveyard just where the water issues from Loch
+Lubnaig. He had to plunge in, panting and hot
+as he was.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">He stumbled twice&mdash;the foam splashed high,</div>
+<div class="verse">With hoarser swell the stream raced by.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>Then, gaining the shore, he faced the chapel
+entrance just as a gay crowd came forth escorting
+a newly-wedded pair.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="loch_vennachar"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_25.jpg" width="800" height="579" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">LOCH VENNACHAR.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Here was Coilantogle Ford where King James V. fought Roderick Dhu.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">{25}</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">In rude but glad procession came</div>
+<div class="verse">Bonneted sire and coif-clad dame;</div>
+<div class="verse">And plaided youth with jest and jeer,</div>
+<div class="verse">Which snooded maiden would not hear.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Bridegroom’s Part</div>
+
+<p>Scott does not tell us why the dripping youth
+selected the bridegroom out of all the crowd
+to carry on the brand, but doubtless there were
+reasons: it was possibly his right as a senior in
+the clan. Still, it is little wonder that the unfortunate
+man, who dared not refuse, yet
+hesitated.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Yet slow he laid his plaid aside</div>
+<div class="verse">And, lingering, eyed his lovely bride</div>
+<div class="verse">Until he saw the starting tear</div>
+<div class="verse">Speak woe he might not stop to cheer;</div>
+<div class="verse">Then trusting not a second look,</div>
+<div class="verse">In haste he sped him up the brook.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse indent4">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Mingled with love’s impatience came</div>
+<div class="verse">The manly thirst for martial fame.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse indent4">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Stung by such thoughts, o’er bank and brae</div>
+<div class="verse">Like fire from flint he glanced away.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>The railway crosses the stream about this
+point, and continues up the west side of the loch,
+while the road keeps on the right, or eastern, side.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">{26}</a></span>
+The rail passes Laggan Farm, said to be the
+birthplace of Rob’s Amazonian wife, Helen,
+who takes a part only second to himself in the
+reader’s imagination. Passing along, therefore,
+on either side we come, soon after the head of
+the loch, to bonny little Strathyre, lying amid its
+great hills, which are flushed as if with fire when
+the setting sun catches the sweep of the heather
+in season.</p>
+
+<p>Only a few miles beyond Strathyre is Balquhidder,
+lying on the road to Loch Voil. The
+loch lies in a very beautiful situation at the foot
+of the range known as the Braes of Balquhidder,
+culminating in Ben A’an and Ben More. It is
+on the property of Mr. Carnegie, whose house,
+Stronvar, is at the east side. In the adventurous
+journey made by the Wordsworths in the beginning
+of the nineteenth century, they actually
+walked over the mountains to Balquhidder from
+Loch Katrine by a wild, rough track, and at the
+foot of the hills waded through the river. Dorothy
+thus describes the scenery: “The mountains all
+round are very high; the vale pastoral and
+unenclosed, not many dwellings and but a few
+trees; the mountains in general smooth near the
+bottom. They are in large unbroken masses,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">{27}</a></span>
+combining with the vale to give an impression of
+bold simplicity.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="loch_lubnaig"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_27.jpg" width="800" height="561" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">LOCH LUBNAIG.</p>
+
+<p class="center">It was at the end of this loch that Angus handed the Fiery Cross to the Bridegroom.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>There were a few reapers in the fields, and
+it was from this fact that Wordsworth was inspired
+to write his poem <cite>The Solitary Reaper</cite>.
+The brother and sister visited the graves at
+Balquhidder before passing on to Callander.</p>
+
+<p>It is said that when the freebooter Rob Roy
+lay dying in his own house at Balquhidder, his
+wife mocked at his repentance. He rebuked her,
+saying: “You have put strife betwixt me and
+the best men of the country, and now you
+would place enmity between me and my
+God.”</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Rob Roy’s Grave</div>
+
+<p>The grave of Rob Roy is in the little old
+graveyard, and is only a few feet from the gate.
+There are rude sculptured figures on the flat
+stone, seemingly far older than the days of the
+freebooter, but possibly an old stone was used to
+mark the place where he at length rested after
+his roving life. This is not the only association
+that Balquhidder evokes, for it is mentioned in
+<cite>The Legend of Montrose</cite>, when the Clan Macgregor
+there agree to stand by the murderers
+of the King’s deer-keeper; and also in more
+modern fiction, when, in Stevenson’s <cite>Kidnapped</cite>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">{28}</a></span>
+poor David breaks down utterly at
+Balquhidder, and has to be guarded and cared
+for by his quaint comrade, Alan Breck.</p>
+
+<p>But, tempting as it is to wander farther up
+the glen, here we must stop, or we shall get
+too far from our legitimate route through the
+Trossachs.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div><div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">{29}</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a><br />
+<br />
+APPROACHES TO THE TROSSACHS</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> route taken by the coaches leaves Callander
+in a northward direction, but soon turns off westward
+down a narrow muddy road forbidden to
+motor-cars; this runs beneath the shoulder of
+Ben Ledi.</p>
+
+<p>Ben Ledi means the Mount of God, and is
+believed to have been held sacred from the days
+when the Beltane mysteries were celebrated on it.
+Beltane was a Celtic festival celebrated about
+May 1 with fires and dances, and probably with
+sacrifices too. The scenery, however, is not as
+awe-inspiring as these weird memories would
+lead one to expect&mdash;in fact, for all this first part
+of the Trossachs’ round the traveller’s imagination
+must supply all the fire he needs. For instance,
+the very prosaic sluices erected by the Glasgow
+Water Company at the end of Loch Vennachar,
+which soon comes into view, mark the site of Coilantogle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">{30}</a></span>
+Ford, across which Roderick promised the
+King a safe-conduct, and where the two fought
+with such fury when the outlaw revealed himself.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">The chief in silence strode before,</div>
+<div class="verse">And reach’d that torrent’s sounding shore</div>
+<div class="verse">Which, daughter of three mighty lakes,</div>
+<div class="verse">From Vennachar in silver breaks.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>The road passes all along the shores of Loch
+Vennachar, and where at the end there lies a
+meadow, embraced on the far side by the
+Finlas Water, we are at another classic spot,
+for this is Lanrick Mead, the meeting-place of
+the Macgregor clansmen. We can see very well
+why it should have been chosen, for it guards at
+its narrowest part the pass, and anyone approaching
+from the Callander&mdash;<i lang="la" xml:lang="la"><abbr title="id est">i.e.</abbr></i>, the Doune or
+Stirling direction&mdash;would be easily stopped,
+though it would be possible for men to come
+along the south side of Lochs Vennachar and
+Achray. The mead also commands the approach
+from the south via Aberfoyle, and any body of
+men coming down the hill on this side would be
+full in view. After this we arrive at the Brig o’
+Turk, a small bridge over the Finlas Water. It
+was close by here, at a few huts marking Duncraggan,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">{31}</a></span>
+that Malise delivered up the cross to
+Angus. But he had done his work well.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">The fisherman forsook the strand,</div>
+<div class="verse">The swarthy smith took dirk and brand;</div>
+<div class="verse">With changèd cheer the mower blithe</div>
+<div class="verse">Left in the half-cut swathe the scythe;</div>
+<div class="verse">The herds without a keeper stray’d,</div>
+<div class="verse">The plough was in mid-furrow staid,</div>
+<div class="verse">The falc’ner tossed his hawk away,</div>
+<div class="verse">The hunter left the stag at bay;</div>
+<div class="verse">Prompt at the signal of alarms,</div>
+<div class="verse">Each son of Alpine rush’d to arms.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="brig_o_turk"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_30.jpg" width="800" height="572" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">BRIG O’ TURK AND BEN VENUE.</p>
+
+<p class="center">In the great stag hunt, with which Scott’s poem opens, it was at this point
+that “the headmost horseman rode alone.”</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>We are now right in the Trossachs proper, and
+find the huge, palatial hotel which goes by that
+name facing little Loch Achray.</p>
+
+<p>Having arrived at the junction of the roads&mdash;that
+is, the two principal approaches already
+noted&mdash;it is necessary to run over the ground
+from Aberfoyle before continuing the part
+through the Trossachs common to both routes.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Aberfoyle</div>
+
+<p>Aberfoyle itself is full of associations, but they
+are nearly all connected with <cite>Rob Roy</cite>. It
+stands as a meeting-place of Highlands and Lowlands,
+and as such has seen many storms. The
+earlier part of the Forth, here known as the
+Laggan, runs past the town, and the old saying
+“Forth bridles the wild Highlandman” is full of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">{32}</a></span>
+significance. Of this district says Mr. Cunninghame
+Graham: “Nearly every hill and strath
+has had its battles between the Grahames and
+the Macgregors. Highlander and Lowlander
+fought in the lonely glens or on the stony hills,
+or drank together in the aqua-vitæ houses in the
+times of their precarious peace.”</p>
+
+<p>Far the most interesting scene laid at Aberfoyle,
+in all the realism of fiction, is that in <cite>Rob
+Roy</cite>, when Bailie Nicol Jarvie, and young
+Osbaldistone arrived, wearied out, seeking shelter
+at the primitive Clachan, and were refused because
+“three Hieland shentlemens” wanted the
+place to themselves. The landlady said her
+house was taken up “wi’ them wadna like to be
+intruded on wi’ strangers,” an objection for which
+there was probably strong underlying reason!</p>
+
+<p>The row that subsequently took place when
+the stout little Bailie defended himself with the
+red-hot coulter of a plough is too well known to
+need quotation. Suffice it to say, in evidence of
+the truth of the story, that a coulter, traditionally
+said to be the very weapon, hangs on a tree
+outside the hotel, which bears his name, to this
+very day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="heart_of_the_trossachs"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_32.jpg" width="800" height="567" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">IN THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Pass of Aberfoyle</div>
+
+<p>The pass which leads by Lochs Ard and Chon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">{33}</a></span>
+north-westward to Stronachlachar has been much
+used at all times, and has seen desperate forays, but
+none perhaps more desperate than that described
+in <cite>Rob Roy</cite> when the Bailie and Osbaldistone,
+unwillingly setting forth up it with an escort
+of soldiery, were attacked from the heights above
+by the redoubtable Helen Macgregor and her
+men, and very narrowly escaped death. Scott
+thus describes the pass:</p>
+
+<p>“Our route, though leading toward the lake,
+had hitherto been so much shaded by wood that
+we only from time to time obtained a glimpse of
+that beautiful sheet of water. But the road now
+suddenly emerged from the forest ground, and,
+winding close by the margin of the loch,
+afforded us a full view of its spacious mirror,
+which now, the breeze having totally subsided,
+reflected in still magnificence the high dark
+heathy mountains, huge grey rocks and shaggy
+banks, by which it is encircled. The hills now
+sank on its margin so closely, and were so
+broken and precipitous, as to afford no passage
+except just upon the narrow line of the track
+which we occupied and which was overhung
+with rocks, from which we might have been
+destroyed merely by rolling down stones, without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">{34}</a></span>
+much possibility of offering resistance. Add
+to this that as the road winded round every promontory
+and bay which indented the lake, there
+was rarely a possibility of seeing a hundred yards
+before us.”</p>
+
+<p>It was when the party had reached a spot
+where the path rose in zigzags and made its
+slippery way across the face of a steep slaty cliff
+that they suddenly discovered they were in an
+ambuscade under the command of Helen Macgregor
+herself. The desperate fight that
+followed, all in favour of the outlaws who commanded
+the situation; the ludicrous plight of the
+fat little Bailie, who, caught by the back of the
+coat on a projecting thorn-bush, swung in mid-air,
+“where he dangled not unlike the sign of
+the Golden Fleece over the door of a mercer in
+the Trongate of his native city”&mdash;are not these
+things writ in the ever-enduring pages of <cite>Rob
+Roy</cite>? More awful was the doom of Morris the
+Gauger, or Exciseman, who was dragged out,
+condemned as a spy, and drowned by the aid of
+a large stone bound in a plaid about his neck.
+“Half naked and thus manacled, they hurled
+him into the lake, there about twelve feet deep,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">{35}</a></span>
+with a loud halloo of vindictive triumph,
+above which, however, his last death shriek,
+the yell of mortal agony, was distinctly
+heard.”</p>
+
+<p>The lake thus woven into the tale is supposed
+to be Loch Ard. The Falls of Ledard, at the
+north-western end, are the falls described by
+Scott in <cite>Waverley</cite>, as he himself has owned,
+though it must be confessed in so doing he
+lifted them from their setting. Flora MacIvor’s
+song&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">There is mist on the mountain and night on the vale,</div>
+<div class="verse">But more dark is the sleep of the sons of the Gael</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>&mdash;is descriptive of this scenery.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">“Rebels and Mossers”</div>
+
+<p>But the Pass of Aberfoyle has scenes of real
+history to tell as well as those of fiction. General
+Monk led his men through it after addressing a
+letter to the Earl of Airth, desiring him to have
+the woods in certain districts of Aberfoyle cut
+down, because they were “grete shelters to the
+rebels and mossers.”</p>
+
+<p>In the pass, also, the Earl of Glencairn and
+Graham of Duchray defeated some of the Cromwellian
+soldiers, and, adds Mr. Cunninghame<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">{36}</a></span>
+Graham in recounting the incident, “Graham of
+Duchray no doubt fought all the better because
+the Cromwellians had burnt his house the night
+before the action, in order to show him that it
+was unwise to attach too much importance to
+mere houses built with hands.”</p>
+
+<p>Aberfoyle is supposed to be peculiarly haunted
+by the “little folk”&mdash;<i lang="la" xml:lang="la"><abbr title="id est">i.e.</abbr></i>, the fairies&mdash;a reputation
+it gained from a seventeenth-century minister,
+who was supposed to be in league with them.
+He is frequently mentioned by Scott, and the
+fairy knowe, opposite the hotel, on which he
+sank down dead, called back to the fairyland he
+loved so well, is still pointed out. He,</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">When the roaring Garry ran</div>
+<div class="verse indent2">Red with the life-blood of Dundee,</div>
+<div class="verse">When coats were turning, crowns were falling,</div>
+<div class="verse indent2">Wandered along his valley still,</div>
+<div class="verse">And heard their mystic voices calling</div>
+<div class="verse indent2">From fairy knowe and haunted hill.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Lake of Menteith</div>
+
+<p>Not less interesting than the west side is the
+country lying east of Aberfoyle, where, at about an
+equal distance, is the lake of Menteith. As significant
+of the wildness of the place in bygone days,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">{37}</a></span>
+we may note that one Earl of Menteith declared
+war against “all but the kinge and those of the
+name of Grahame.” Menteith was from earliest
+times one of the five great districts into which
+Scotland was divided. The Earls of Menteith
+(Grahams) were ever at feud with the warlike
+Macgregors, and, as often happens, the feuds raged
+worst just on the borders of the Highlands,
+where men might attack and retreat in safety,
+knowing every track which led into their wild
+fastnesses.</p>
+
+<p>The lake of Menteith is about two miles by
+one, and it is curious to note this is the only
+<em>lake</em> in Scotland. On it is an island, where the
+Earls had their residence. Another island, called
+Inchmahone, is, however, more interesting still.
+The word means “Isle of Rest,” and such it was
+found by the monks who lived here in ages long
+gone past. Ruins are left, a moulded doorway,
+a fine monument, to tell of their occupation, but
+“gone are the Augustinian monks who built the
+stately island church. Out of the ruined chancel
+grows a plane-tree, which is almost ripe. In the
+branches rooks have built their nests, and make as
+cheerful matins as perhaps the monks themselves.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">{38}</a></span>
+The giant chestnuts, grown, as tradition says,
+from chestnuts brought from Rome, are all stag-headed.
+Ospreys used to build in them in the
+memory of those still living. Gone are the
+'Riders of Menteith’ (if they ever existed); the
+ruggers and the reivers are at one with those they
+harried. The Grahams and Macgregors, the
+spearmen and the jackmen, the hunters and the
+hawkers, the livers by their spurs, the luckless
+Earls of Menteith and their retainers, are buried
+and forgotten, and the tourist cracks his biscuit
+and his jest over their tombs” (Cunninghame
+Graham).</p>
+
+<p>The “Riders of Menteith” are spoken of in
+history, but whether, as Mr. Graham asks, they
+were mortal riders or a sort of <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Walküren</i>, sacred
+to the Valhalla of the district, history does not
+enlighten us.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Four Maries</div>
+
+<p>Queen Mary, as a little girl of five, was
+brought to the island of Inchmahone after the
+Battle of Pinkie, and lived here for a whole year,
+until she went to France to be betrothed to the
+Dauphin. Her childish dreams beneath the
+great chestnuts can have contained no shadow of
+the stormy life and fearful end that awaited her.
+She was even at that time accompanied by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">{39}</a></span>
+“four Maries” who attended on her, one of
+whom, Mary Hamilton, met the tragic fate of
+execution.</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Last nicht there were four Maries,</div>
+<div class="verse indent2">This nicht there’ll be but three:</div>
+<div class="verse">There was Mary Beaton and Mary Seaton,</div>
+<div class="verse indent2">And Mary Carmichael and me.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>The road from Aberfoyle to the Trossachs
+rises very steeply past some slate-quarries. As
+we rise the hills come into view&mdash;Ben Ledi and
+Ben Venue, with Ben Lomond dominating all
+the landscape; Ben Voil peeping over Ben
+Lawers; and on the clearest days, far in the
+distance, Ben Nevis, Schiehallion, and many
+others. Far below to the right lies Loch
+Drunkie, and much nearer the desolate little
+tarn called Loch Reoichte, which signifies
+“frozen,” and this among them all for desolate
+beauty stands first. Close by the road is a drinking-fountain,
+called “Rob Roy’s Well,” where
+the tourist is invited to slake his thirst, though
+the real well, to which the tradition attaches, is
+away from the road, above the slate-quarries on
+Craig Vadh. On the ridge of this same Craig
+Vadh, by the way, are curious cairns, covering<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">{40}</a></span>
+the spot where the bodies of those slain in a
+Border foray were found. When the road at
+length descends we have the pleasing duty of
+paying an impost, or toll, for the use of it&mdash;and by
+no means a low one either&mdash;and thus we come to
+Loch Achray and the Trossachs Hotel, and pick
+up the thread where it was dropped.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div><div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">{41}</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a><br />
+<br />
+THE HEART OF THE TROSSACHS</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">As</span> we have heard the Trossachs signifies “bristled
+territory,” a suitable name enough, and as they
+have been described by the master himself, there
+would be little use in trying to improve upon
+his words, which are as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">With boughs that quaked at every breath,</div>
+<div class="verse">Grey birch and aspen wept beneath;</div>
+<div class="verse">Aloft, the ash and warrior oak</div>
+<div class="verse">Cast anchor in the rifted rock;</div>
+<div class="verse">And, higher yet, the pine-tree hung</div>
+<div class="verse">His shattered trunk, and frequent flung,</div>
+<div class="verse">Where seem’d the cliffs to meet on high,</div>
+<div class="verse">His boughs athwart the narrow’d sky.</div>
+<div class="verse">Highest of all where white peaks glanced,</div>
+<div class="verse">Where glistening streamers waved and danced,</div>
+<div class="verse">The wanderer’s eye could barely view</div>
+<div class="verse">The summer heaven’s delicious blue;</div>
+<div class="verse">So wondrous wild, the whole might seem</div>
+<div class="verse">The scenery of a fairy dream.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Dorothy Wordsworth</div>
+
+<p>It must be remembered that the beautiful even<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">{42}</a></span>
+road which now runs through the heart of this
+fairyland was a work of great difficulty and cost.
+It has been hewn out of the side of the rock,
+and built up by the side of the loch in order to
+facilitate the constant stream of tourists. At first
+there were several wild pathways leading down
+to Loch Katrine through a perfect wilderness of
+boughs and undergrowth, and at the end a precipitous
+drop over the edge of a steep crag, only
+scaled by the aid of a sort of natural ladder of
+saplings and tendrils, and it is thus that Scott
+makes Fitz-James approach the loch. In the
+beginning of the nineteenth century, however,
+when Dorothy Wordsworth and her brother
+reached the Trossachs from Loch Katrine, a
+great improvement had taken place. When
+nearing the end of the lake, she says, they came
+in sight of two huts, which had been built by
+Lady Perth as a shelter for visitors. “The
+huts stand at a small distance from each other,
+on a high and perpendicular rock, that rises from
+the bed of the lake. A road, which has a very
+wild appearance, has been cut through the rock;
+yet even here, among these bold precipices, the
+feeling of excessive beautifulness overcomes every
+other.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="the_silver_strand"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_43.jpg" width="800" height="579" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">THE SILVER STRAND, LOCH KATRINE.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Where Scott describes the meeting between Fitz-James and Ellen of the Isle.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">{43}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In her there was already that new appreciation
+of the natural beauty which her brother was to
+do so much to encourage in all. Her description
+of the Trossachs, after they had landed, clearly
+shows this: “Above and below us, to the right
+and to the left, were rocks, knolls, and hills,
+which, whenever anything could grow&mdash;and that
+was everywhere between the rocks&mdash;were
+covered with trees and heather. The trees did
+not in any place grow so thick as an ordinary
+wood, yet I think there was never a bare space of
+twenty yards; it was more like a natural forest,
+where the trees grow in groups or singly, not
+hiding the surface of the ground, which, instead
+of being green and mossy, was of the richest
+purple. The heather was indeed the most
+luxuriant I ever saw; it was so tall that a child
+of ten years old struggling through it would
+often have been buried head and shoulders, and
+the exquisite beauty of the colour, near or at a
+distance, seen under the trees is not to be conceived.”</p>
+
+<p>And as it was then so it is now: a better
+description of the peculiar scenery of the Trossachs
+could hardly be given, especially if we add the
+detail that bog-myrtle and birches grow abundantly,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">{44}</a></span>
+adding to the fragrance and poetry of the
+place. Winding round to the right runs the
+road to the Silver Strand, now much covered by
+the rising of the water owing to the precautions
+taken by the Glasgow Waterworks, which gets
+its supply from Loch Katrine. Here Fitz-James
+is supposed to have stood. Right in front is
+Ellen’s Isle, thickly wooded; behind it rises the
+vast shoulder of Ben Venue, and away to the
+right stretches westward the full length of the
+lake, broken by promontories,</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Where, gleaming with the setting sun,</div>
+<div class="verse">One burnish’d sheet of living gold,</div>
+<div class="verse">Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll’d;</div>
+<div class="verse">In all her length far winding lay,</div>
+<div class="verse">With promontory, creek and bay,</div>
+<div class="verse">And islands that, empurpled bright,</div>
+<div class="verse">Floated amid the livelier light;</div>
+<div class="verse">And mountains, that like giants stand,</div>
+<div class="verse">To sentinel enchanted land.</div>
+<div class="verse">High on the south, huge Ben Venue</div>
+<div class="verse">Down to the lake in masses threw</div>
+<div class="verse">Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurl’d,</div>
+<div class="verse">The fragments of an earlier world.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>In the whole of a justly celebrated poem there
+is no passage finer than this, and, oft quoted as it
+has been, it would be impossible to omit it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">{45}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Ellen’s Isle is, of course, so named after Scott’s
+heroine; the Highland name is Eilean Molach,
+meaning the “Shaggy Island,” and it is quite
+likely that with this in his mind Scott chose
+the name Ellen as the nearest English-sounding
+equivalent.</p>
+
+<p>The Goblin’s Cave, to which Ellen and her
+family retreated, is on the side of Ben Venue,
+and above is the Bealach Nambo, or the Pass of
+the Cattle, which Scott alluded to as:</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">The dell upon the mountain’s crest</div>
+<div class="verse">Yawned like a gash on warrior’s breast.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>This can be reached on foot by a not too difficult
+walk, but most people prefer to view it from
+below. The Goblin’s Cave is impossible of
+exact identification, if, indeed, it had any actual
+prototype.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">Loch Katrine</div>
+
+<p>It has been suggested that the name of Loch
+Katrine arose from the hordes of robbers, or
+caterans, who infested its shores. If this be so,
+the name has been softened into something much
+more appropriate to the loveliness of the scenery,
+which is at its best at the east end. The
+Wordsworth party, indeed, coming from the
+other end, were at first disappointed. As the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">{46}</a></span>
+only means of transit was by a small row-boat,
+Coleridge was afraid of the cold and walked along
+the northern shore from Glengyle, though not,
+of course, on the well-made-up road which runs
+part of the way at present. Wordsworth himself
+slept in the bottom of the boat, which they had
+procured with much difficulty, and told his sister
+to awake him if anything worth seeing occurred.
+It was not until they nearly reached the eastern
+end that she did this, though then she confessed
+that what they saw was “the perfection of
+loveliness and beauty.”</p>
+
+<p>The lake is about eight miles long by three-quarters
+broad, but the actual width varies very
+much, owing to the numerous indentations. The
+road on the northern shore runs to Glengyle, but
+there stops, so that the only means of getting
+right on to Loch Lomond is to take the steamer,
+which awaits tourists several times daily. No
+doubt a road by which cyclists could travel on their
+own account would be strenuously resisted in the
+neighbourhood, where the chief aim and object of
+the tourist’s being is supposed to be to pay for
+everything. On the southern side the steepness
+of the precipices of Ben Venue prevents any
+possibility of a road.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="loch_katrine"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_46.jpg" width="800" height="605" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN’S ISLE.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">{47}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Opposite to Ben Venue, and best seen from the
+lake itself, is Ben A’an, only 1,750 feet in height.
+At the north-west end of Loch Katrine is Glengyle,
+the hereditary burial-place of the Macgregors.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer stops at Stronachlachar, about
+three-quarters of the way down the lake on
+the south side, and here a coach meets it to
+convey passengers across to Inversnaid, on Loch
+Lomond.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">“Stepping Westward”</div>
+
+<p>With Loch Katrine the scenes identified with
+<cite>The Lady of the Lake</cite> come to an end. The
+road to Loch Lomond passes over a wild, rough
+heath, in strong contrast to the wooded loveliness
+of the eastern end of Loch Katrine, but quite as
+attractive to some natures, especially when the
+soft grey clouds lie low and the russets and
+browns of the bracken and heather replace
+the rich glory of its purple robe. It was hereabouts
+that the Wordsworths, when returning to
+Lomond, were greeted by two Highland women,
+who said in a friendly way: “What! you are
+stepping westward”&mdash;a simple sentence which
+gave Wordsworth the inspiration for the poem
+which he wrote long afterwards beginning with
+the same words.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">{48}</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Real Rob Roy</div>
+
+<p>Loch Arklet lies very flat between its shores,
+and has no beauty except its wildness. At one end
+lived for some time Rob Roy and his wife;
+indeed, all this district, right up to Glen Falloch
+on the one side, and down to the shoulders of
+Ben Lomond on the other, is associated with the
+outlaw, of whom Scott made a hero. The
+district has also associations with a much greater
+than he, for it is redolent of the wanderings of
+Robert the Bruce, when he was hunted by his
+bitter enemies, the men of Lorn.</p>
+
+<p>It is supposed that Roderick Dhu in Scott’s
+poem was a shadowy form of Rob Roy, who is
+more developed in the book which was published
+seven years later. Both were of uncommon
+personal strength, both were cattle-lifters and outlaws,
+both were of the great clan of Macgregor,
+and there are minor resemblances.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="ben_aan"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_49.jpg" width="800" height="553" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">BEN A’AN (Seen from Loch Katrine).</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rob’s designation was “of Inversnaid,” and he
+owned Craig Royston, a district lying east of
+Lomond, near the north end. He began as a man
+of property and a land-holder, rough and poor as
+his territory was. He went on to be a cattle-dealer
+on a large scale, and this turned to something
+more nefarious. A distraint was levied on
+his property, and he had to leave the shores of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">{49}</a></span>
+Lomond. To this fact is attributed the wild
+piper’s tune of “The Lament of Rob Roy,”
+composed by his wife, which has something of
+the mournful beauty of the country incorporated
+in its weird strains:</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Through the depths of Loch Lomond the steed shall career,</div>
+<div class="verse">O’er the heights of Ben Lomond the galley shall steer,</div>
+<div class="verse">And the rocks of Craig Royston like icicles melt,</div>
+<div class="verse">Ere our wrongs be forgot, or our vengeance unfelt.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>Rob seems to have been in some way a Robin
+Hood, exercising generosity toward those poorer
+and weaker than himself, and he was greatly
+beloved by the people in consequence. Many a
+ballad is connected with his name, and he became
+a popular hero even before his death. He took
+part in 1715 Rebellion on the Jacobite side, and
+at the Battle of Sheriffmuir seems to have been
+afflicted with the peculiar indecision that paralyzed
+both sides on that memorable day. He was
+leading, beside his own clan, a party of Macphersons,
+whose chief was too infirm to take the field,
+and he retained his station on a hill, though
+positively ordered by the Earl of Mar to charge.
+It is said that this charge might have decided the
+day. This incident is embodied in the ballad on
+the occasion:</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">{50}</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse indent4">Rob Roy he stood watch</div>
+<div class="verse indent4">On a hill for to catch</div>
+<div class="verse">The booty for aught that I saw, mon;</div>
+<div class="verse indent4">For he ne’er advanced</div>
+<div class="verse indent4">From the place where he stanced</div>
+<div class="verse">Till nae mair was to do there at a’, mon.</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>It is impossible to give even an account of
+all Rob’s pranks, some of which are doubtless
+mythical, and others which do not greatly redound
+to his credit. He had certainly that
+picturesque personality which has attracted
+romancers in all ages, and he formed a very
+fitting subject for Scott’s pen.</p>
+
+<p>In the end he turned Roman Catholic, and
+died, as already stated, at Balquhidder.</p>
+
+<p>The road drops very steeply down to Lomond,
+and passes the earthworks which mark the site of
+a fort built by William III. to overawe the
+rebels. The fort, being on the great outlaw’s
+property, was an object of peculiar hatred. Twice
+it was surprised and taken&mdash;once by Roy himself
+and once by his nephew. It is said that at one
+time General, then Captain, Wolfe was in command
+of it.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Highland Girl</div>
+
+<p>The little stream Arklet dances and brawls
+over its bed, in its descent accompanying the road,
+and at length leaps into the lake by a splendid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">{51}</a></span>
+waterfall thirty feet in height. Close by this is
+the palatial hotel at Inversnaid, a brother to the
+one at the Trossachs. When the Wordsworths
+arrived here the first time, after having with great
+difficulty got across Loch Lomond in a row-boat,
+they found only a miserable ferry-house, with a
+mud floor, and rain coming in at the roof. It
+was here that Wordsworth saw the prototype of
+his “sweet Highland girl.”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div><div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">{52}</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a><br />
+<br />
+LOMOND AND THE MACGREGORS</h2>
+
+
+<div class="sidenote">Ben Lomond</div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lomond</span> is one of the two most magnificent lochs
+in Scotland. It is twenty-one miles long, its
+only rival being Loch Awe, which is three miles
+longer. It is of a curious wedge shape, being
+about five miles broad at the low end and
+narrowing to a point in the north. In the
+widest part it bears a perfect archipelago of
+islands, once thickly populated, but now left
+mostly to deer and other wild creatures. There
+is a tradition of a floating island, repeated by
+many an ancient traveller; but all trace of this
+phenomenon has vanished&mdash;if, indeed, it ever
+existed. The fishing in the loch is free, and
+salmon, sea-trout, lake-trout, pike, and perch are
+to be caught. The nearness of the great lake to
+Glasgow is at once an advantage and a drawback.
+It is an advantage for the thousands that pour out
+of the grimy city on every holiday, and, at half<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">{53}</a></span>
+an hour from their own doors, for a trifling
+sum, can spend joyous days in scenery which can
+be classed with the most beautiful in the world.
+But it is certainly not an unmixed joy to the real
+lover of Nature, who approaches the lake in a
+spirit of worship, to find the shores black with
+people and the steamers thronged with tourists.
+The attractions pointed out to those who pass up
+or down the great sheet of water are various. Not
+the least is the giant Ben, who raises his proud
+head on the eastern side, “a sort of Scottish
+Vesuvius, never wholly without a cloud-cap.
+You cannot move a step that it does not tower
+over you. In winter a vast white sugar-loaf; in
+summer a prismatic cone of yellow and amethyst
+and opaline lights; in spring a grey, gloomy,
+stony pile of rocks; in autumn a weather indicator,
+for when the mist curls down its sides and
+hangs in heavy wreaths from its double summit,
+‘it has to rain,’ as the Spaniards say.”</p>
+
+<p>The mountain is 3,192 feet high, and the
+ascent is not difficult; by the gradually sloping
+way from the hotel at Rowardennan it is about
+five or six miles, without any very stiff climbing,
+and there is a choice of other routes. On a
+clear day, which is a rare boon, the view from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">{54}</a></span>
+the summit is superb. Sitting on its topmost
+pinnacle, one looks down the almost perpendicular
+north-eastern slope into the little valley where
+the River Forth may be said to take its rise. On
+the western side Loch Lomond stretches out in
+full length, and across the narrow isthmus of
+Tarbet is the sea-loch, Loch Long. Far away to
+the east and south the eye may range over the
+Lothians, Edinburgh, and Arthur’s Seat, and even
+to the distant hills of Cumberland and the Isle of
+Man; while farther west, backed by the Irish
+coast, is the whole scenery of the beautiful Clyde
+estuary and the nearer Hebrides. Northward,
+peak after peak, rise the stately masses of the
+Grampians.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Inversnaid, the first point to which
+attention is usually drawn is the cave in the
+corries on the east side, called Rob Roy’s Cave;
+much farther down the loch, amid the screes of
+Ben Lomond, is another hole, called Rob Roy’s
+Prison. The Island Vow, midway across the
+loch opposite Inversnaid, owes its name to a
+corruption of Eilean Vhow, meaning the
+Brownies’ Isle, a fascinating enough name to
+a child. On the island are some remains of the
+Macfarlanes’ stronghold. Wordsworth’s poem<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">{55}</a></span>
+<cite>The Brownie</cite> originated with this island. On
+the farther shore, a little more northward, there
+is what is called the Pulpit Rock, a cell cut out
+on the face of the cliff so that it could be used
+for open-air preaching.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Macfarlanes</div>
+
+<p>Right opposite is Ben Voirlich, and, in its
+fastnesses, wild Loch Sloy, whose name formed
+the war-cry of the Macfarlanes.</p>
+
+<p>The reputation of this clan was not far behind
+the Macgregors as far as desperate courage and
+mad savagery count. Their headquarters were
+at first on the Isle of Inveruglas, just near the outflow
+of that stream into the loch; then they
+moved to the Brownies’ Island, doubtless finding
+the near neighbourhood of their hereditary
+enemies, the men of Lorn, too dangerous; but
+subsequently, becoming bolder, they went to
+Tarbet, and there settled.</p>
+
+<p>The name Tarbet means draw-boat, and the
+story goes that Haco, King of Norway, in 1263
+entered Loch Long, and, sailing up it, made his
+men drag the long flat-bottomed boats across the
+isthmus, and launch them on Loch Lomond, in
+order that he might the more easily attack the
+people on its shores for plunder.</p>
+
+<p>The next point of interest is the promontory<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">{56}</a></span>
+of Luss, which gives its name to Colquhoun of
+Luss, whose seat is on the next most beautiful
+wooded promontory at Rossdhu. This family is
+one of the most ancient on record, being able to
+trace its ancestry back to the Colquhouns in
+1190 and the Lusses in 1150, which two
+families were united in the main line by the
+marriage of a Colquhoun with the heiress of
+Luss about 1368. Mrs. Walford, the well-known
+novelist, is a scion of this family. The
+present mansion was built about the end of the
+eighteenth century, but a fragment of the old
+ancestral home is still standing. Not far off are
+Court Hill and Gallows Hill, where the chieftain
+tried delinquents, and where justice was meted
+out to them. The slogan of the clan means
+“Knoll of the willow.”</p>
+
+<p>Across the loch, on the opposite side, is Ross
+Priory, where Scott was staying with his friend
+Hector Macdonald when he wrote part of <cite>Rob
+Roy</cite>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter w800"><a id="loch_lomond"></a>
+<img src="images/illus_fp_56.jpg" width="800" height="565" alt="" />
+<div class="caption"><p class="center">LOCH LOMOND (Looking towards Glen Falloch).</p>
+
+<p class="center">It is one of the largest lakes in Scotland, and forms part of the famous Trossachs round.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Islands</div>
+
+<p>Just about here we are in a perfect world of
+islands, some of which&mdash;notably Inchmurrin&mdash;are
+preserved as a deer-park. At the south end
+are the ruins of a castle once inhabited by the
+Earls of Lennox, who belonged to the Macfarlane<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">{57}</a></span>
+clan. Here Isabel, Duchess of Albany, retired
+when her father, husband, and sons had been
+executed at Stirling in 1424. Of the other
+islands, we have the names of Inchchlonaig,
+meaning the Island of Yew-trees, on which the
+yews are said to have been planted by Robert
+Bruce to furnish bows for his archers; Inchtavannach,
+or Monks’ Island; Inchcruin, Round
+Island; Inchfad, Long Island; and Inchcaillach,
+the Island of Women, from a nunnery once
+established here. This is close to the Pier of
+Balmaha, where is the entrance to a pass over
+the mountains, a well-known road in the old
+days of tribal war and bloodshed.</p>
+
+<p>The Wordsworths landed on Inchtavannach,
+and climbed to the top of it. Here is Dorothy’s
+description: “We had not climbed far before
+we were stopped by a sudden burst of prospect,
+so singular and beautiful that it was like a flash
+of images from another world. We stood with
+our backs to the hill of the island, which we
+were ascending, and which shut out Ben Lomond
+entirely and all the upper part of the lake, and
+we looked toward the foot of the lake, scattered
+over with islands, without beginning and without
+end. The sun shone, and the distant hills<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">{58}</a></span>
+were visible&mdash;some through sunny mists, others in
+gloom with patches of sunshine; the lake was
+lost under the low and distant hills, and the
+islands lost in the lake, which was all in motion,
+with travelling fields of light, or dark shadows
+under rainy clouds. There are many hills, but
+no commanding eminence at a distance to confine
+the prospect, so that the land seemed endless as
+the water.... Immediately under my eyes
+lay one large flat island bare and green ...
+another, its next neighbour, was covered with
+heath and coppice wood, the surface undulating....
+These two islands, with Inchtavannach,
+where we were standing, were intermingled
+with the water, I might say interbedded, and
+interveined with it, in a manner that was
+exquisitely pleasing. There were bays innumerable,
+straits or passages like calm rivers, land-locked
+lakes, and, to the main water, stormy
+promontories.”</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Rossdhu, on the west, is the
+entrance to Glen Fruin, the Glen of Weeping&mdash;a
+sad name, which turned out to be appropriate
+enough in view of the terrible scenes which
+happened here.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Macgregors</div>
+
+<p>The trouble began with the Macgregors.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">{59}</a></span>
+Their clan claimed descent from the third son of
+Alpine, King of the Scots, who lived about 787,
+and was therefore known by the alternative
+name of Clan Alpine. Their savage ways made
+them hated by their neighbours, and the Earls of
+Argyll and Breadalbane managed to obtain from
+the Government a right by charter to a great part
+of the lands belonging to the unfortunate clan.
+This, of course, was the signal for a fight to the
+death.</p>
+
+<p>From the time of Queen Mary onward various
+warrants were given to the other clans to make
+war on the unfortunate Macgregors, and to
+extirpate them as they would vermin. They
+were not only to be hounded out of existence,
+but the other clans were forbidden to supply
+them with the common necessaries of life. The
+climax was reached in the slaughter of Glen
+Fruin, which arose in this wise: Two of the
+Macgregors, being benighted, called at the house
+of one of the Colquhouns, and asked shelter.
+This was refused. They accordingly helped
+themselves to a sheep and supped off mutton,
+for which it is alleged they offered payment.
+The Laird of Luss seized them and had them
+both executed. Then the rest of the clan arose<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">{60}</a></span>
+in wrath, and, to the number of three or four
+hundred strong, marched down to Luss. Sir
+Humphrey Colquhoun, receiving warning of
+their advance, called together his clansmen and
+others, to double the number of the invaders, and
+advanced to meet them, doing so in Glen Fruin.</p>
+
+<p>The clan of the Macgregors charged the
+Colquhouns with fury, and, owing to the fact
+that part of the opposing force was mounted, and
+that the horses got mired in the boggy ground,
+they were able, notwithstanding their inferiority
+of numbers, to get the best of it, whereupon
+they set upon their flying foes and slaughtered
+them mercilessly.</p>
+
+<p>The event which, however, lives in memory
+longest is that of the action of a gigantic
+Macgregor, called Dugald Ciar Mohr, or the
+“great mouse-coloured man,” who was in charge,
+as their tutor, of a party of youths from
+Glasgow. It is said that, excited by the sound
+of his clansmen shouting their war-cry, or
+incensed by the remarks of the youths against
+his clan, he lost his head; anyway, he slew them
+all in cold blood.</p>
+
+<div class="sidenote">The Clerk’s Stone</div>
+
+<p>The great stone called Leck-a-Mhinisteir, the
+“minister or clerk’s stone,” is still pointed out as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">{61}</a></span>
+the place where this horrid deed was done, and
+it is said the stone was bathed red in the blood of
+the hapless boys. This Dugald was the ancestor
+of Rob Roy and his tribe.</p>
+
+<p>The terrible song put by Sir Walter Scott into
+the mouths of the Macgregor boatmen carries
+with it a wild cry of savagery:</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="verse">Proudly our pibroch has thrilled in Glen Fruin,</div>
+<div class="verse indent2">And Bannacha’s groans to our slogan replied;</div>
+<div class="verse">Glen Luss and Rossdhu they are smoking in ruin;</div>
+<div class="verse indent2">And the best of Loch Lomond lie dead on its side.</div>
+<div class="verse indent6">Widow and Saxon maid</div>
+<div class="verse indent6">Long shall lament our raid,</div>
+<div class="verse">Think of Clan Alpine with fear and with woe;</div>
+<div class="verse indent6">Lennox and Leven Glen</div>
+<div class="verse indent6">Shake when they hear again</div>
+<div class="verse">Roderick vich Alpine dhu! ho feroe!</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>After this defeat the fury and wrath of the
+other clans, who were in favour at Court, may be
+imagined, and the widows of the slain men, to
+the number of several score, were sent, dressed
+in deep mourning, and riding upon white
+palfreys, carrying each her husband’s bloody
+shirt, to demand vengeance of King James VI.
+on the Macgregors. The Court was then at
+Stirling, and surely Stirling never saw a more
+woesome sight! The vengeance they obtained<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">{62}</a></span>
+was all that they could desire, for by an Act of
+Privy Council, dated April 3, 1603, the name of
+Macgregor was wiped out of the land, all those
+who bore it being compelled, under dire penalties,
+to adopt the name of some other clan; hence it
+was that Rob Roy was known as Rob Roy
+Macgregor Campbell. The Macgregors were forbidden
+to carry any weapons, and were otherwise
+penalized. The chief, Alistair Macgregor, who
+had led the fight at Glen Fruin, was seized, and
+hanged in 1604. Yet, in spite of these and
+other dire disabilities, the Macgregors continued
+to be Macgregors in heart, whatever they might
+call themselves, and held their heads as high as
+their own crest, a pine-tree. They attached
+themselves to the cause of King Charles in the
+Civil Wars, and were subsequently rewarded by
+the annulling of the Acts and having their
+rights restored to them.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /></div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">{63}</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h2>
+
+
+<ul class="index"><li class="ifrst">Aberfoyle, <a href="#Page_31">31-40</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Aberfoyle, Pass of, <a href="#Page_33">33-35</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Achray, Loch, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Alexander I., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ard, Loch, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Argyll, Duke of, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Arklet, Loch, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Arklet (stream), <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Balquhidder, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bannockburn, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Bealach Nambo, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben A’an, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben Ledi, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben Lomond, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben More, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben Nevis, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben Vane, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben Venue, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben Voil, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ben Voirlich, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Brig o’ Turk, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Buchanan, George, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Callander, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Carnegie, Mr., <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Coilantogle Ford, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Coleridge, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Colquhoun of Luss, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Craig Royston, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Craig Vadh, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Douglas, Earl of, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Drunkie, Loch, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Duncraggan, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Edward I., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Edward II., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ellen’s Isle, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Falloch, Glen, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Finlas Water, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Forth, The, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Glasgow Waterworks, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Glencairn, Earl of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Glen Fruin, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Glengyle, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Goblin’s Cave, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Graham of Duchray, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Grey, Sir Patrick, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Inchcaillach, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inchchlonaig, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inchcruin, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inchfad, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inchmahone, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inchmurrin, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inchtavannach, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inversnaid, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Inveruglas, Isle, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Island Vow, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">James II., <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">James III., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">James IV., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">James V., <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">James VI., <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Katrine, Loch, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx"><cite>Kidnapped</cite>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">King’s Knot, The, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst"><cite>Lady of the Lake, The</cite>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9-15</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx"><cite>Lady of the Lake, The</cite>, quoted, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Laggan Farm, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Lanrick Mead, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Ledard, Falls of, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx"><cite>Legend of Montrose, The</cite>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Leny, Falls of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">{64}</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Leny, Pass of, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Lomond, Loch, <a href="#Page_52">52-62</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Lubnaig, Loch, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Macfarlane Clan, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Macgregor Clan, <a href="#Page_58">58-62</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Macgregor, Helen, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Mary Queen of Scots, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Menteith, Earls of, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Menteith, Lake of, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Reoichte, Loch, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rob Roy, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48-50</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx"><cite>Rob Roy</cite>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31-34</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Robert the Bruce, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rossdhu, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Routes, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Rowardennan, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">St. Bride’s Chapel, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Schiehallion, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Scott, Sir Walter, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Sheriffmuir, Battle of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Silver Strand, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Stirling, <a href="#Page_16">16-22</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Stirling Castle, <a href="#Page_18">18-22</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Strathyre, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Stronachlachar, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Tarbet, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Trossachs, The, <a href="#Page_41">41-46</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Trossachs Hotel, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst">Vennachar, Loch, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="ifrst"><cite>Waverley</cite>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wolfe, Captain (General), <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li class="indx">Wordsworths, The, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li></ul>
+
+
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p class='center'>BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<div class="figcenter w300">
+<img src="images/agents.jpg" width="300" height="597" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p class='ph3'>AGENTS</p>
+
+<p class='p2'>AMERICA</p>
+
+<p class='pl2'>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</p>
+
+<p class='pl4'>64 &amp; 66 Fifth Avenue, <span class="smcap">New York</span></p>
+
+<p class='p2'>AUSTRALASIA</p>
+
+<p class='pl2'>OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS</p>
+
+<p class='pl4'>205 Flinders Lane, <span class="smcap">Melbourne</span></p>
+
+<p class='p2'>CANADA</p>
+
+<p class='pl2'>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.</p>
+
+<p class='pl4'>St. Martin’s House, 70 Bond Street, <span class="smcap">Toronto</span></p>
+
+<p class='p2'>INDIA</p>
+
+<p class='pl2'>MACMILLAN &amp; COMPANY, LTD.</p>
+
+<p class='pl4'>Macmillan Building, <span class="smcap">Bombay</span></p>
+
+<p class='pl4'>309 Bow Bazaar Street, <span class="smcap">Calcutta</span>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p class='center'>PUBLISHED BY<br />
+ADAM &amp; CHARLES BLACK<br />
+SOHO SQ., LONDON</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p>[Transcriber&rsquo;s Note: The following changes have been made to this text:<br />
+<br />
+Page 10: Greame changed to Graeme.<br />
+<br />
+Illustration facing page 49: Kathrine changed to Katrine.<br />
+<br />
+Page 63: Glenfruin to Glen Fruin.]</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Trossachs, by Geraldine Edith Mitton
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