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diff --git a/57009-8.txt b/57009-0.txt index 18ba34d..d5b77c0 100644 --- a/57009-8.txt +++ b/57009-0.txt @@ -1,35 +1,7 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of History of Lace, by Bury Palliser +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 57009 *** -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. -Title: History of Lace -Author: Bury Palliser - -Editor: M. Jourdain - Alice Dryden - -Release Date: April 21, 2018 [EBook #57009] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF LACE *** - - - - -Produced by Keith Edkins, Constanze Hofmann, David Edwards -and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images -generously made available by The Internet Archive/American -Libraries.) @@ -47,7 +19,7 @@ incorporated to facilitate the use of the Index. HISTORY OF LACE [Illustration: ANNE, DAUGHTER OF SIR PETER VANLORE, KT., - FIRST WIFE OF SIR CHARLES CÆSAR, KT., ABOUT 1614. + FIRST WIFE OF SIR CHARLES CÆSAR, KT., ABOUT 1614. The lace is probably Flemish, Sir Peter having come from Utrecht. From the picture the property of her descendant, Captain Cottrell-Dormer.] @@ -102,7 +74,7 @@ anything the late Mrs. Palliser wrote; they have therefore altered as little of the text as possible, except where modern research has shown a statement to be faulty. -The chapters on Spain, Alençon and Argentan, and the Introductory chapter +The chapters on Spain, Alençon and Argentan, and the Introductory chapter on Needlework, have been almost entirely rewritten. Much new matter has been added to Italy, England and Ireland, and the notices of Cretan and Sicilian lace, among others, are new. The original wood-cuts have been @@ -114,7 +86,7 @@ wearing lace. The Revisers wish to record their grateful thanks to those who have assisted them with information or lace for illustration; especially to Mrs. Hulton, Count Marcello and Cavaliere Michelangelo Jesurum in Venice, -Contessa di Brazza and Contessa Cavazza in Italy, M. Destrée in Brussels, +Contessa di Brazza and Contessa Cavazza in Italy, M. Destrée in Brussels, Mr. Arthur Blackborne, Salviati & Co., and the Director of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. @@ -158,23 +130,23 @@ CONTENTS XII.--LOUIS XVI. TO THE EMPIRE 179 - XIII.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF FRANCE--ALENÇON (Dép. Orne), + XIII.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF FRANCE--ALENÇON (Dép. Orne), NORMANDY 188 - XIV.--ARGENTAN (Dép. Orne) 202 + XIV.--ARGENTAN (Dép. Orne) 202 - XV.--ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (Dép. Seine)--CHANTILLY (Dép. Oise) 209 + XV.--ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (Dép. Seine)--CHANTILLY (Dép. Oise) 209 - XVI.--NORMANDY--SEINE INFÉRIEURE--CALVADOS--BRETAGNE 216 + XVI.--NORMANDY--SEINE INFÉRIEURE--CALVADOS--BRETAGNE 216 - XVII.--VALENCIENNES (Dép. du Nord)--LILLE (Dép. du Nord)--ARRAS - (Artois) (Dép. Pas-de-Calais)--BAILLEUL (Dép. du Nord) 230 + XVII.--VALENCIENNES (Dép. du Nord)--LILLE (Dép. du Nord)--ARRAS + (Artois) (Dép. Pas-de-Calais)--BAILLEUL (Dép. du Nord) 230 - XVIII.--AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY--LE PUY (Dép. Haute-Loire)--AURILLAC - AND MURAT (Dép. Cantal) 242 + XVIII.--AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY--LE PUY (Dép. Haute-Loire)--AURILLAC + AND MURAT (Dép. Cantal) 242 XIX.--LIMOUSIN--LORRAINE--CHAMPAGNE--BURGUNDY--LYONNOIS-- - ORLÉANOIS--BERRY--POITOU 250 + ORLÉANOIS--BERRY--POITOU 250 XX.--HOLLAND, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY-- HOLLAND--SAXONY--GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH)--SWITZERLAND 258 @@ -229,12 +201,12 @@ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE ANNE, DAUGHTER OF SIR PETER VANLORE, KT. _Frontispiece_ Gold Lace found in a barrow Fig. 1 4 - ARGENTAN.--CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU; VENETIAN NEEDLEPOINT PLATE I 12 - ITALIAN BOBBIN RÉSEAU; SIX-POINTED STAR-MESHED BOBBIN - RÉSEAU; BRUSSELS BOBBIN RÉSEAU; FOND CHANT OF CHANTILLY - AND POINT DE PARIS; DETAILS OF BOBBIN RÉSEAU AND TOILE; - DETAILS OF NEEDLE RÉSEAU AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES PLATE II 14 - Point Coupé Fig. 2 18 + ARGENTAN.--CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU; VENETIAN NEEDLEPOINT PLATE I 12 + ITALIAN BOBBIN RÉSEAU; SIX-POINTED STAR-MESHED BOBBIN + RÉSEAU; BRUSSELS BOBBIN RÉSEAU; FOND CHANT OF CHANTILLY + AND POINT DE PARIS; DETAILS OF BOBBIN RÉSEAU AND TOILE; + DETAILS OF NEEDLE RÉSEAU AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES PLATE II 14 + Point Coupé Fig. 2 18 ALTAR OR TABLE-CLOTH OF FINE LINEN (PROBABLY ITALIAN) PLATE III 18 Laces Fig. 3 19 Elizabethan Sampler " 5 22 @@ -254,21 +226,21 @@ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PORTION OF A BAND OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE " IX 36 Guipure Fig. 18 39 Tape Guipure " 19 40 - ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À LA ROSE PLATE X 44 + ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À LA ROSE PLATE X 44 ITALIAN.--POINT PLAT DE VENISE " XI 46 - ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU " XII 48 + ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU " XII 48 Mermaid Lace Fig. 20 50 Reticella " 21 50 Punto a Gropo " 22 52 Gros Point de Venise " 23 52 Punto a Maglia " 24 53 Punto Tirato " 25 54 - Point de Venise à Bredes Picotées " 26 54 + Point de Venise à Bredes Picotées " 26 54 Venise Point " 27 55 Gros Point de Venise " 28 56 Point de Venise " 29 56 Point Plat de Venise " 30 56 - Point de Venise à Réseau " 31 58 + Point de Venise à Réseau " 31 58 Burano Point " 32 60 ITALIAN.--MODERN POINT DE BURANO PLATE XIII 60 ITALIAN.--MODERN REPRODUCTION AT BURANO " XIV 62 @@ -281,10 +253,10 @@ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ITALY.--GROUP OF WORKERS AT BRAZZA SCHOOL " XIX 70 Genoa Point, Bobbin-made Fig. 35 74 Lace Pattern found in the Church at Santa Margherita " 36 76 - ITALIAN.--BOBBIN TAPE WITH NEEDLE-MADE RÉSEAU PLATE XX 76 + ITALIAN.--BOBBIN TAPE WITH NEEDLE-MADE RÉSEAU PLATE XX 76 ITALIAN, GENOESE.--BORDER " XXI 76 Parchment Pattern used to cover a Book Fig. 37 77 - Fringed Macramé " 38 80 + Fringed Macramé " 38 80 ITALIAN.--OLD PEASANT LACES, BOBBIN-MADE PLATES XXII, XXIII 80 ITALIAN.--MODERN PEASANT LACE PLATE XXIV 80 Silk Gimp Lace Fig. 39 84 @@ -317,11 +289,11 @@ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Belgian Lace School " 54 114 Old Flemish Bobbin Lace " 55 114 Old Flemish.--Trolle Kant " 56 115 - BRUSSELS.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À BRIDES PLATE XXXVII 116 + BRUSSELS.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À BRIDES PLATE XXXVII 116 FLEMISH.--TAPE LACE, BOBBIN-MADE " XXXVIII 116 Brussels Needle-Point Fig. 57 118 " " " 58 120 - Brussels.--Point à l'Aiguille " 58A 120 + Brussels.--Point à l'Aiguille " 58A 120 Old Brussels.--Point d'Angleterre " 59 122 " " " " 60 124 MECHLIN, 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY PLATE XXXIX 126 @@ -344,36 +316,36 @@ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Lace Rose and Garter " 68 147 Young Lady's Apron, time of Henry III " 69 148 BRUSSELS.--BOBBIN-MADE, PERIOD LOUIS XIV. PLATE XLVIII 150 - " .--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À RÉSEAU " XLIX 150 + " .--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À RÉSEAU " XLIX 150 Anne of Austria Fig. 70 151 A Courtier of the Regency " 71 152 Canons of Louis XIV " 72 154 Chateau de Louvai " 73 156 CHENILLE RUN ON A BOBBIN-GROUND PLATE L 156 BRUSSELS.--BOBBIN-MADE " LI 156 - Le Grand Bébé Fig. 74 162 + Le Grand Bébé Fig. 74 162 Louvois, 1691 " 75 163 Madame de Maintenon " 76 164 - Lady in Morning déshabille " 77 165 + Lady in Morning déshabille " 77 165 Le Grand Dauphin en Steinkerque " 78 168 Madame du Lude en Steinkerque " 79 168 Madame Palatine " 80 169 BRUSSELS.--MODERN POINT DE GAZE PLATE LII 170 Madame Sophie de France, 1782 Fig. 81 175 - Madame Adélaide de France " 82 176 + Madame Adélaide de France " 82 176 MADAME LOUISE DE FRANCE PLATE LIII 176 - Madame Thérèse Fig. 83 177 + Madame Thérèse Fig. 83 177 Marie-Antoinette " 84 179 - Madame Adélaide de France " 85 182 + Madame Adélaide de France " 85 182 FRENCH.--BORDER OF POINT PLAT DE FRANCE PLATE LIV 188 Colbert, + 1683 Fig. 86 189 Venice Point " 87 191 - FRENCH.--POINT D'ALENÇON PLATE LV 192 - Argentella, or Point d'Alençon à Réseau Rosacé Fig. 88 194 + FRENCH.--POINT D'ALENÇON PLATE LV 192 + Argentella, or Point d'Alençon à Réseau Rosacé Fig. 88 194 Bed made for Napoleon I. " 89 197 - Alençon Point à Petites Bredes " 90 200 - Point d'Alençon, Louis XV. " 91 200 - POINT D'ALENÇON. FLOUNCE PLATE LVI 202-3 + Alençon Point à Petites Bredes " 90 200 + Point d'Alençon, Louis XV. " 91 200 + POINT D'ALENÇON. FLOUNCE PLATE LVI 202-3 Point d'Argentan Fig. 92 204 " " . Grande Bride ground " 93 206 FRENCH.--POINT D'ARGENTAN, 18TH CENTURY PLATE LVII 208 @@ -387,8 +359,8 @@ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Petit Poussin, Dieppe Fig. 98 219 Ave Maria, Dieppe " 99 220 Point de Dieppe " 100 221 - Dentelle à la Vierge " 101 222 - Duc de Peuthièvre " 102 223 + Dentelle à la Vierge " 101 222 + Duc de Peuthièvre " 102 223 FRENCH.--BLONDE MALE, IN SPANISH STYLE PLATE LXI 226 Modern Black Lace of Bayeux Fig. 103 227 Point Colbert " 104 228 @@ -413,7 +385,7 @@ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS HUNGARIAN.--BOBBIN LACE " LXX 268 AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN " LXXI 268 Shirt Collar of Christian IV. Fig. 115 273 - Tönder Lace, Drawn Muslin " 116 274 + Tönder Lace, Drawn Muslin " 116 274 RUSSIAN--NEEDLEPOINT; GERMAN--SAXON PLATE LXXII 276 RUSSIAN, OLD BOBBIN-MADE " LXXIII 276 RUSSIAN, BOBBIN-MADE IN THREAD PLATE LXXIV 280 @@ -462,7 +434,7 @@ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Raised Plait, " " 148 393 ENGLISH, SUFFOLK, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXVII 394 English Needle-made Lace Fig. 149 396 - HONITON WITH THE VRAI RÉSEAU PLATE LXXXVIII 402 + HONITON WITH THE VRAI RÉSEAU PLATE LXXXVIII 402 Bone Lace from Cap, Devonshire Fig. 150 404 Monument of Bishop Stafford, Exeter Cathedral " 151 406 Monument of Lady Doddridge " " " 152 407 @@ -565,13 +537,13 @@ British Museum is engraved with the figure of a Babylonian king, Merodach-Idin-Abkey, in embroidered robes, which speak of the art as practised eleven hundred years B.C.[11] Josephus writes that the veils given by Herod for the Temple were of Babylonian work ([Greek: peplos -babylônios])--the women excelling, according to Apollonius, in executing +babylônios])--the women excelling, according to Apollonius, in executing designs of varied colours. The Sidonian women brought by Paris to Troy embroidered veils of such rich work that Hecuba deemed them worthy of being offered to Athene; and Lucan speaks of the Sidonian veil worn by Cleopatra at a feast in her Alexandrine -palace, in honour of Cæsar.[12] +palace, in honour of Cæsar.[12] Phrygia was also renowned for its needlework, and from the shores of Phrygia Asiatic and Babylonian embroideries were shipped to Greece and @@ -606,7 +578,7 @@ instead of in their hearts."[16] In the Middle Ages spinning and needlework were the occupation of women of all degrees. As early as the sixth {5}century the nuns in the diocese of -St. Césaire, Bishop of Arles, were forbidden to embroider robes enriched +St. Césaire, Bishop of Arles, were forbidden to embroider robes enriched with paintings, flowers, and precious stones. This prohibition, however, was not general. Near Ely, an Anglo-Saxon lady brought together a number of maidens to work for the monastery, and in the seventh century an Abbess of @@ -622,15 +594,15 @@ robe she had worked with her own hands and studded with precious stones. "Berthe aux grands pieds," the mother of Charlemagne, was celebrated for her skill in needlework,[18] - "à ouvrer si com je vous dirai - N'avoit meillor ouvriere de Tours jusqu'à Cambrai;" + "à ouvrer si com je vous dirai + N'avoit meillor ouvriere de Tours jusqu'à Cambrai;" while Charlemagne[19]-- "Ses filles fist bien doctriner, Et aprendre keudre et filer." -Queen Adelhaïs, wife of Hugh Capet (987-996), presented to the Church of +Queen Adelhaïs, wife of Hugh Capet (987-996), presented to the Church of St. Martin at Tours a cope, on the back of which she had embroidered the Deity, surrounded by seraphim and cherubim, the front being worked with an Adoration of the Lamb of God.[20] @@ -649,19 +621,19 @@ life to an embroideress named Eanswitha for the charge of scouring, repairing, and renewing the vestments of the priests of his diocese.[21] The Anglo-Saxon Godric, Sheriff of Buckingham, granted to Alcuid half a hide of land as long as he should be sheriff on condition she taught his -daughter the art of embroidery. In the tenth century Ælfleda, a high-born +daughter the art of embroidery. In the tenth century Ælfleda, a high-born Saxon lady, offered to the church at Ely a curtain on which she had wrought the deeds of her husband, Brithnoth, slain by the Danes; and Edgitha, Queen of Edward the Confessor, was "perfect mistress of her needle." The famous Bayeux Tapestry or embroidery, said to have been worked by Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, is of great historical -interest.[22] It is, according to the chroniclers, "Une tente très longue +interest.[22] It is, according to the chroniclers, "Une tente très longue et estroite de telle a broderies de ymages et escriptaux faisant -représentation du Conquest de l'Angleterre"; a needle-wrought epic of the +représentation du Conquest de l'Angleterre"; a needle-wrought epic of the Norman Conquest, worked on a narrow band of stout linen over 200 feet long, and containing 1,255 figures worked on worsted threads.[23] Mr. Fowke gives -the Abbé Rue's doubts as to the accepted period of the Bayeux tapestry, +the Abbé Rue's doubts as to the accepted period of the Bayeux tapestry, which he assigns to the Empress Matilda. Mr. Collingwood Bruce is of opinion that the work is coeval with the events it records, as the primitive furniture, buildings, etc., are all of the eleventh century. That @@ -716,12 +688,12 @@ floral and elaborate arabesque ornament.[27] It was the custom in feudal times[28] for knightly families to send their daughters to the castles of their suzerain lords, there to be trained to -spin, weave and embroider under the eye of the lady châtelaine, a custom +spin, weave and embroider under the eye of the lady châtelaine, a custom which, in the more primitive countries, continued even to the French Revolution. In the French romances these young ladies are termed -"chambrières," in our English, simply "the maidens." Great ladies prided +"chambrières," in our English, simply "the maidens." Great ladies prided themselves upon the number of their attendants, and passed their mornings -at work, their labours beguiled by singing the "chansons à toile," as the +at work, their labours beguiled by singing the "chansons à toile," as the ballads written for those occasions were termed.[29] {9}In the wardrobe accounts of our kings appear constant entries of working @@ -734,7 +706,7 @@ have begged alms in the streets of the rich Flemish towns, ladies of rank, more fortunate in their education, gained, like the French emigrants of more modern days, their subsistence by the products of their needle.[31] -Without wishing to detract from the industry of mediæval ladies, it must be +Without wishing to detract from the industry of mediæval ladies, it must be owned that the swampy state of the country, the absence of all roads, save those to be traversed in the fine season by pack-horses, and the deficiency of all suitable outdoor amusement but that of hawking, caused them to while @@ -771,12 +743,12 @@ The works of Scotland's Mary, who early studied all female accomplishments under her governess, Lady Fleming, {11}are too well known to require notice. In her letters are constant demands for silk and other working materials wherewith to solace her long captivity. She had also studied -under Catherine de Médicis, herself an unrivalled needlewoman, who had +under Catherine de Médicis, herself an unrivalled needlewoman, who had brought over in her train from Florence the designer for embroidery, Frederick Vinciolo. Assembling her daughters, Claude, Elizabeth and Margaret, with Mary Stuart, and her Guise cousins, "elle passoit," says -Brantôme, "fort son temps les apres-disnées à besogner apres ses ouvrages -de soye, où elle estoit tant parfaicte qu'il estoit possible."[35] The +Brantôme, "fort son temps les apres-disnées à besogner apres ses ouvrages +de soye, où elle estoit tant parfaicte qu'il estoit possible."[35] The ability of Reine Margot[36] is sung by Ronsard, who exalts her as imitating Pallas in the art.[37] @@ -795,7 +767,7 @@ We find monks commended for their skill in embroidery,[40] and in the frontispieces of some of the early pattern books of the sixteenth century, men are represented working at frames, and these books are stated to have been written "for the profit of men as well as of women."[41] Many were -composed by monks,[42] and in the library[43] of St. Geneviève at Paris, +composed by monks,[42] and in the library[43] of St. Geneviève at Paris, are several works of this class, inherited from the monastery of that name. As these books contain little or no letterpress, they could scarcely have been collected by the monks unless with a view to using them. @@ -812,7 +784,7 @@ had died out, and there were none to replace them. Mrs. Hutchinson, in her _Memoirs_, enumerates, among the eight tutors she had at seven years of age, one for needlework, while Hannah Senior, about the same period, entered the service of the Earl of Thomond, to teach his -daughters the use of their needle, with the salary of £200 a year. The +daughters the use of their needle, with the salary of £200 a year. The money, however, was never paid; so she petitions the Privy Council for leave to sue him.[45] @@ -825,9 +797,9 @@ the projected alliance. [Illustration: PLATE I. -ARGENTAN.--Showing buttonhole stitched réseau and "brides bouclées." +ARGENTAN.--Showing buttonhole stitched réseau and "brides bouclées." -CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU.--Variety of Mechlin. +CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU.--Variety of Mechlin. VENETIAN NEEDLE-POINT. Portions of lace very much enlarged to show details of stitches.] @@ -875,8 +847,8 @@ CUT-WORK. "These workes belong chiefly to gentlewomen to passe away their time in vertuous exercises." - "Et lors, sous vos lacis à mille fenestrages - Raiseuls et poinct couppés et tous vos clairs ouvrages." + "Et lors, sous vos lacis à mille fenestrages + Raiseuls et poinct couppés et tous vos clairs ouvrages." --_Jean Godard_, 1588. It is from that open-work embroidery which in the sixteenth century came @@ -909,21 +881,21 @@ monasteries, looked upon as a church secret. [Illustration: PLATE II. -ITALIAN BOBBIN RÉSEAU. +ITALIAN BOBBIN RÉSEAU. -SIX-POINTED STAR-MESHED BOBBIN RÉSEAU.--Variety of Valenciennes. +SIX-POINTED STAR-MESHED BOBBIN RÉSEAU.--Variety of Valenciennes. -BRUSSELS BOBBIN RÉSEAU. +BRUSSELS BOBBIN RÉSEAU. FOND CHANT OF CHANTILLY AND POINT DE PARIS. -Valenciennes. Lille. Toilé. +Valenciennes. Lille. Toilé. -DETAILS OF BOBBIN RÉSEAU AND TOILÉ. +DETAILS OF BOBBIN RÉSEAU AND TOILÉ. -Alençon réseau. +Alençon réseau. -DETAILS OF NEEDLE RÉSEAU AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES. +DETAILS OF NEEDLE RÉSEAU AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES. Portions of lace very much enlarged to show details of stitches.] @@ -942,7 +914,7 @@ of decoration being in general use. The royal wardrobe accounts of that day contain no entries on the subject. It applies rather to the fashion of cutting out[50] pieces of velvet or other materials, and sewing them down to the garment with a braid like ladies' work of the present time. Such -garments were in general use, as the inventories of mediæval times fully +garments were in general use, as the inventories of mediæval times fully attest. The linen shirt or smock was the special object of adornment, and on the @@ -997,12 +969,12 @@ composed for that species which, under the general name of cut-work, formed the great employment for the women of the day. The volume most generally circulated, especially among the ladies of the French court, for whose use it was designed, is that of the Venetian Vinciolo, to whom some say, we -know not on what authority, Catherine de Médicis granted, in 1585, the -exclusive privilege of making and selling the _collerettes gaudronnées_[57] +know not on what authority, Catherine de Médicis granted, in 1585, the +exclusive privilege of making and selling the _collerettes gaudronnées_[57] she had herself introduced. This work, which passed through many editions, dating from 1587 to 1623, is entitled, "Les singuliers et nouveaux -pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie. Servans de patrons à faire toutes -sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. Dedié à la Royne. Nouvellement +pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie. Servans de patrons à faire toutes +sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. Dedié à la Royne. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit et contentement des nobles Dames et Demoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc le jeune, etc., 1587." @@ -1010,7 +982,7 @@ Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc le jeune, etc., 1587." Two little figures, representing ladies in the costume of the period, with working-frames in their hands, decorate the title-page.[58] -The work is in two books: the first of Point Coupé, or {18}rich geometric +The work is in two books: the first of Point Coupé, or {18}rich geometric patterns, printed in white upon a black ground (Fig. 2); the second of Lacis, or subjects in squares (Fig. 3), with counted stitches, like the patterns for worsted-work of the present day--the designs, the seven @@ -1025,7 +997,7 @@ bearing a date is one printed at Cologne in 1527.[59] [Illustration: Fig. 2. -POINT COUPÉ.--(Vinciolo.)] +POINT COUPÉ.--(Vinciolo.)] These books are scarce; being designed for patterns, and traced with a metal style, or pricked through, many perished in the using. They are much @@ -1064,24 +1036,24 @@ Ce Pelican contient en longueur 70 mailles et en hauteur 65.] ladies, thus specially alludes to the custom of working on quintain:-- "Vous n'employiez les soirs et les matins - A façonner vos grotesques quaintains, + A façonner vos grotesques quaintains, O folle erreur--O despence excessive." Again, the pattern was made without any linen at all; threads, radiating at equal distances from one common centre, served as a framework to others which were united to them in squares, triangles, rosettes, and other -geometric forms, worked over with button-hole stitch (_point noué_), +geometric forms, worked over with button-hole stitch (_point noué_), forming in some parts open-work, in others a heavy compact embroidery. In this class may be placed the old conventual cut-work of Italy, generally termed Greek lace, and that of extraordinary fineness and beauty which is assigned to Venice. Distinct from all these geometric combinations was the -lacis[61] of the sixteenth century, done on a network ground (_réseau_), +lacis[61] of the sixteenth century, done on a network ground (_réseau_), identical with the _opus araneum_ or spider-work of continental writers, -the "darned netting" or modern _filet brodé à reprises_ of the French +the "darned netting" or modern _filet brodé à reprises_ of the French embroiderers. The ground consisted of a network of square meshes, on which was worked the -pattern, sometimes cut out of linen and appliqué,[62] but more usually +pattern, sometimes cut out of linen and appliqué,[62] but more usually darned with stitches like tapestry. This darning-work was easy of execution, and the stitches being regulated by counting the meshes,[63] effective geometric patterns could be produced. Altar-cloths, baptismal @@ -1097,16 +1069,16 @@ continued to its prescribed length, and then finished off by reducing a stitch on each side till it was decreased to one, as garden nets are made at the present day. -This plain netted ground was called _réseau_, _rézel_, _rézeuil_,[65] and +This plain netted ground was called _réseau_, _rézel_, _rézeuil_,[65] and was much used for bed-curtains, vallances, etc. In the inventory of Mary Stuart, made at Fotheringay,[66] we find, "Le lict -d'ouvrage à rezel"; and again, under the care of Jane Kennethee, the +d'ouvrage à rezel"; and again, under the care of Jane Kennethee, the "Furniture of a bedd of network and Holland intermixed, not yet finished." -When the _réseau_ was decorated with a pattern, it was termed _lacis_, or +When the _réseau_ was decorated with a pattern, it was termed _lacis_, or darned netting, the Italian _punto ricamato a maglia quadra_, and, combined -with _point-coupé_, was much used for bed-furniture. It appears to have +with _point-coupé_, was much used for bed-furniture. It appears to have been much employed for church-work,[67] for the sacred emblems. The Lamb and the Pelican are frequently represented.[68] @@ -1117,7 +1089,7 @@ with darning." Queen Mary Stuart, previous to the birth of James I. (1560), made a will, which still exists,[69] with annotations in her own handwriting. After disposing of her jewels and objects of value, she concludes by bequeathing -"tous mes ouvrages masches et collets aux 4 Maries, à Jean Stuart, et Marie +"tous mes ouvrages masches et collets aux 4 Maries, à Jean Stuart, et Marie Sunderland, et toutes les filles";--"masches,"[70] with _punti a maglia_, being among the numerous terms applied to this species of work. @@ -1126,10 +1098,10 @@ ladies. She had learned the art at the French court, where her sister-in-law, Reine Margot, herself also a prisoner for many life-long years, appears to have occupied herself in the same manner, for we find in her accounts,[71] "Pour des moulles et esguilles pour faire rezeuil la -somme de iiii. L. tourn." And again, "Pour avoir monté une fraize neufve de +somme de iiii. L. tourn." And again, "Pour avoir monté une fraize neufve de reseul la somme de X. sols tourn." -Catherine de Médicis had a bed draped with squares of reseuil or lacis, and +Catherine de Médicis had a bed draped with squares of reseuil or lacis, and it is recorded that "the girls and servants of her household consumed much time in making squares of reseuil." The inventory of her property and goods includes a coffer containing three hundred and eighty-one of such squares @@ -1138,7 +1110,7 @@ squares, some worked with rosettes or with blossoms, and others with nosegays.[72] Though the work of Milour Mignerak, already quoted, is dedicated to the -Trés-Chrestienne Reine de France et de Navarre, Marie de Médicis, and bears +Trés-Chrestienne Reine de France et de Navarre, Marie de Médicis, and bears her cipher and arms, yet in the decorated frontispiece is a cushion with a piece of lacis in progress, the pattern a daisy looking at the sun, the favourite impresa of her predecessor, the divorced Marguerite, now, by @@ -1154,14 +1126,14 @@ _To face page 22._ teachers of the art soon caused the various patterns to be reproduced in "samcloths,"[73] as samplars were then termed, and young ladies worked at them diligently as a proof of their competency in the arts of cut-work, -lacis and réseuil, much as a dame-school child did her A B C in the country +lacis and réseuil, much as a dame-school child did her A B C in the country villages some years ago. Proud mothers caused these _chefs-d'oeuvre_ of their children to be framed and glazed; hence many have come down to us hoarded up in old families uninjured at the present time. (Fig. 5.) A most important specimen of lacis was exhibited at the Art International Exhibition of 1874, by Mrs. Hailstone, of Walton Hall, an altar frontal 14 -feet by 4 feet, executed in point conté, representing eight scenes from the +feet by 4 feet, executed in point conté, representing eight scenes from the Passion of Christ, in all fifty-six figures, surrounded by Latin inscriptions. It is assumed to be of English workmanship. @@ -1172,7 +1144,7 @@ IMPRESA OF QUEEN MARGARET OF NAVARRE IN LACIS.--(Mignerak.)] Some curious pieces of ancient lacis were also exhibited (_circ._ 1866) at the Museum of South Kensington by Dr. Bock, of Bonn. Among others, two specimens of coloured silk network, the one ornamented with small -embroidered shields and crosses (Fig. 6), the other with the mediæval +embroidered shields and crosses (Fig. 6), the other with the mediæval gammadion pattern (Fig. 7). In the same collection was a towel or altar-cloth of ancient German work--a coarse net ground, worked over with the lozenge pattern.[74] @@ -1202,13 +1174,13 @@ plain linen. This work formed the great delight of provincial ladies in France. Jean Godard, in his poem on the Glove,[75] alluding to this occupation, says:-- - "Une femme gantée oeuvre en tapisserie + "Une femme gantée oeuvre en tapisserie En raizeaux deliez et toute lingerie Elle file--elle coud et fait passement De toutes les fassons...." The armorial shield of the family, coronets, monograms, the beasts of the -Apocalypse, with fleurs-de-lys, sacrés coeurs, for the most part adorned +Apocalypse, with fleurs-de-lys, sacrés coeurs, for the most part adorned those pieces destined for the use of the Church. If, on the other hand, intended for a pall, death's-heads, cross-bones and tears, with the sacramental cup, left no doubt of the destination of the article. @@ -1223,7 +1195,7 @@ Photo by the Burano School.] PLATE V. [Illustration: ITALIAN. PUNTO REALE.--Modern reproduction by the Society -Æmilia Ars, Bologna. +Æmilia Ars, Bologna. Photo by the Society.] @@ -1234,7 +1206,7 @@ the fishers when borne in procession through the streets of Dieppe. It is said to have been a votive offering worked by the hands of some lady saved from shipwreck, and presented as a memorial of her gratitude. -In 1866, when present at a peasant's wedding in the church of St. Lo (Dép. +In 1866, when present at a peasant's wedding in the church of St. Lo (Dép. Manche), the author observed that the "toile d'honneur," which is always held extended over the heads of the married pair while the priest pronounces the blessing, was of the finest cut-work, trimmed with lace. @@ -1275,11 +1247,11 @@ LACE. "Je demandai de la dentelle: Voici le tulle de Bruxelles, - La blonde, le point d'Alençon, - Et la Maline, si légère; + La blonde, le point d'Alençon, + Et la Maline, si légère; L'application d'Angleterre - (Qui se fait à Paris, dit-on); - Voici la guipure indigène, + (Qui se fait à Paris, dit-on); + Voici la guipure indigène, Et voici la Valenciennes, Le point d'esprit, et le point de Paris; Bref les dentelles @@ -1289,7 +1261,7 @@ LACE. Lace[77] is defined as a plain or ornamental network, wrought of fine threads of gold, silver, silk, flax, or cotton, interwoven, to which may be -added "poil de chèvre," and also the fibre of the aloe, employed by the +added "poil de chèvre," and also the fibre of the aloe, employed by the peasants of Italy and Spain. The term _lacez_ rendered in the English translation of the Statutes[78] as "laces," implying braids, such as were used for uniting the different parts of the dress, appears long before @@ -1303,28 +1275,28 @@ The same confusion occurs in France, where the first lace was called _passement_, because it was applied to the same {27}use, to braid or lay flat over the coats and other garments. The lace trade was entirely in the hands of the "passementiers" of Paris, who were allowed to make all sorts -of "passements de dentelle sur l'oreiller aux fuseaux, aux épingles, et à +of "passements de dentelle sur l'oreiller aux fuseaux, aux épingles, et à la main, d'or, d'argent, tant fin que faux, de soye, de fil blanc, et de couleur," etc. They therefore applied the same terms to their different products, whatever the material. The word _passement_ continued to be in use till the middle of the seventeenth century, it being specified as "passements aux fuseaux," -"passements à l'aiguille"; only it was more specifically applied to lace +"passements à l'aiguille"; only it was more specifically applied to lace without an edge. The term _dentelle_ is also of modern date, nor will it be found in the earlier French dictionaries.[80] It was not till fashion caused the passament to be made with a toothed edge that the expression of "passement -dentelé" first appears. +dentelé" first appears. In the accounts of Henry II. of France, and his queen, we have frequent -notices of "passement jaulne dantellé des deux costez,"[81] "passement de -soye incarnat dentellé d'un costé,"[82] etc., etc., but no mention of the +notices of "passement jaulne dantellé des deux costez,"[81] "passement de +soye incarnat dentellé d'un costé,"[82] etc., etc., but no mention of the word "dentelle." It does, however, occur in an inventory of an earlier date, that of Marguerite de France, sister of Francis I., who, in 1545, paid the sum of VI. livres "pour soixante aulnes, fine dantelle de Florance -pour mettre à des colletz."[83] +pour mettre à des colletz."[83] After a lapse of twenty years and more, among the articles furnished to Mary Stuart in 1567, is "Une pacque de petite dentelle";[84] and this is @@ -1332,13 +1304,13 @@ the sole mention of the word in all her accounts. {28}We find like entries in the accounts of Henry IV.'s first queen.[85] -Gradually the passement dentelé subsided into the modern dentelle. +Gradually the passement dentelé subsided into the modern dentelle. [Illustration: Fig. 8. -GRANDE DANTELLE AU POINT DEVANT L'AIGUILLE.--(Montbéliard, 1598.)] +GRANDE DANTELLE AU POINT DEVANT L'AIGUILLE.--(Montbéliard, 1598.)] -It is in a pattern book, published at Montbéliard in 1598,[86] we first +It is in a pattern book, published at Montbéliard in 1598,[86] we first find designs for "dantelles." It contains {29}twenty patterns, of all sizes, "bien petites, petites" (Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12), "moyennes, et grosses" (Fig. 8). @@ -1368,7 +1340,7 @@ PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] In the inventory of Henrietta Maria, dated 1619,[87] appear a variety of laces, all qualified under the name of "passement"; and in that of the -Maréchal La Motte, 1627, we find the term applied to every description of +Maréchal La Motte, 1627, we find the term applied to every description of lace. {30}"Item, quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de passement, tant de @@ -1377,7 +1349,7 @@ Venise, Gennes, et de Malines."[88] Lace consists of two parts, the ground and the pattern. The plain ground is styled in French _entoilage_, on account of its -containing the flower or ornament, which is called _toilé_, from the flat +containing the flower or ornament, which is called _toilé_, from the flat close texture resembling linen, and also from its being often made of that material or of muslin. @@ -1389,7 +1361,7 @@ PASSEMENT AU FUSEAU.--(Mignerak, 1605.)] PASSEMENT AU FUSEAU.--(Vinciolo, _Edition_ 1623.)] -The honeycomb network or ground, in French _fond_, _champ_,[89] _réseau_, +The honeycomb network or ground, in French _fond_, _champ_,[89] _réseau_, _treille_, is of various kinds: wire ground, Brussels ground, trolly ground, etc., _fond clair_, _fond double_, etc. @@ -1411,13 +1383,13 @@ MERLETTI A PIOMBINI.--(Parasole, 1616.)] The flower, or ornamental pattern, is either made together with the ground, as in Valenciennes or Mechlin, or separately, and then either worked in or -sewn on (appliqué), as in Brussels. +sewn on (appliqué), as in Brussels. The open-work stitches introduced into the pattern are called _modes_, _jours_; by our Devonshire workers, "fillings." All lace is terminated by two edges, the pearl, picot,[92] or couronne--a -row of little points at equal distances, and the footing or _engrêlure_--a +row of little points at equal distances, and the footing or _engrêlure_--a narrow lace, which serves to keep the stitches of the ground firm, and to sew the lace to the garment upon which it is to be worn. @@ -1425,25 +1397,25 @@ sew the lace to the garment upon which it is to be worn. The term pillow gives rise to misconceptions, as it is impossible to define the distinction between the "cushion" used for some needle-laces and the "pillow" of bobbin-lace. The first is made by the needle on a parchment -pattern, and termed needle-point, _point à l'aiguille_, _punto in aco_. +pattern, and termed needle-point, _point à l'aiguille_, _punto in aco_. The word is sometimes incorrectly applied to pillow-lace, as point de Malines, point de Valenciennes, etc. Point also means a particular kind of stitch, as point de Paris,[93] point -de neige, point d'esprit,[94] point à la Reine, point à carreaux, à -chaînette, etc. +de neige, point d'esprit,[94] point à la Reine, point à carreaux, à +chaînette, etc. "Cet homme est bien en points," was a term used to denote a person who wore rich laces.[95] -The mention of point de neige recalls the quarrel of Gros René and -Marinette, in the _Dépit Amoureux_[96] of Molière:-- +The mention of point de neige recalls the quarrel of Gros René and +Marinette, in the _Dépit Amoureux_[96] of Molière:-- "Ton beau galant de neige,[97] avec ta nonpareille, - Il n'aura plus l'honneur d'être sur mon oreille." + Il n'aura plus l'honneur d'être sur mon oreille." -Gros René evidently returns to his mistress his point de neige nightcap. +Gros René evidently returns to his mistress his point de neige nightcap. The manner of making bobbin lace on a pillow[98] need hardly be described. The "pillow"[99] is a round or oval board, stuffed so as to form a cushion, @@ -1457,7 +1429,7 @@ which the thread is wound, a separate bobbin being used for each thread. PLATE VI. -[Illustration: ITALIAN.--Modern reproduction at Burano of Point de Venise à +[Illustration: ITALIAN.--Modern reproduction at Burano of Point de Venise à la feuille et la rose, of seventeenth century. Width, 8 in. Photo by the Burano School.] @@ -1466,7 +1438,7 @@ PLATE VII. [Illustration: Heraldic (carnival lace), was made in Italy. This appears to be a specimen, though the archaic pattern points to a German origin. The -réseau is twisted and knotted. _Circ._ 1700. The Arms are those of a +réseau is twisted and knotted. _Circ._ 1700. The Arms are those of a Bishop. Photo by A. Dryden from private collection.] @@ -1494,7 +1466,7 @@ The laces known at that period were:-- in the environs of Paris[102] by the peasant women, principally for their own use. Though proverbially of little value--"ce n'est que de la bisette"[103]--it formed an article of traffic with the mercers and -lingères of the day. +lingères of the day. 3. Gueuse.--A thread lace, which owed to its simplicity {34}the name it bore. The ground was network, the flowers a loose, thick thread, worked in @@ -1516,7 +1488,7 @@ pricked lace;" and in the "Ladies' Dictionary," 1694, it is described as "a kind of narrow lace, picked or scalloped."[106] In the Great Wardrobe Account of William III., 1688-9, we have "le poynt -campanie tæniæ." +campanie tæniæ." 5. Mignonette.[107]--A light, fine, pillow lace, called blonde de fil,[108] also point de tulle, from the ground resembling that {35}fabric. @@ -1564,7 +1536,7 @@ Guipure was made either with the needle or on the pillow like other lace, in various patterns, shades and colours, of different qualities and several widths. -The narrowest guipures were called "Têtes de More."[113] +The narrowest guipures were called "Têtes de More."[113] The less cartisane in the guipure, the more it was esteemed, for cartisane was not durable, being only vellum covered over with silk. It was easily @@ -1625,7 +1597,7 @@ It is singular that the word guipure is not to be found in our English inventories or wardrobe accounts, a circumstance which leads us to infer, though in opposition to higher authorities, that guipure was in England termed "parchment lace"--a not unnatural conclusion, since we know it was -sometimes called "dentelle à cartisane,"[121] from the slips of parchment +sometimes called "dentelle à cartisane,"[121] from the slips of parchment of which it was partly composed. Though Queen Mary would use the French term, it does not seem to have been adopted in England, whereas "parchment lace" is of frequent occurrence. @@ -1667,7 +1639,7 @@ But to return to the word guipure. In an inventory of the Church of the Oratoire, at Paris, of the seventeenth century, are veils for the host: one, "de {39}taffetas blanc garny d'une -guipure"; the other, "de satin blanc à fleurs, avec une dentelle de +guipure"; the other, "de satin blanc à fleurs, avec une dentelle de guipure."[133] These guipures will have also been of silk. When the term was first @@ -1679,7 +1651,7 @@ patterns bear the character of the rich ornamentation and capricious interlacings of the Renaissance; others, again, are "pur Louis Quatorze" (Fig. 18). The finest thread guipures were the produce of Flanders and Italy. They are most varied in their style. In some the bold flowing -patterns are united by brides; in others by a coarse réseau, often +patterns are united by brides; in others by a coarse réseau, often circular, and called "round ground." [Illustration: Fig. 18. @@ -1701,7 +1673,7 @@ Venetian point. TAPE GUIPURE, BOBBIN-MADE.--(Genoa.)] Most of these laces are enumerated in a _jeu d'esprit_, entitled "La -Révolte des Passemens," published at Paris in 1661.[134] +Révolte des Passemens," published at Paris in 1661.[134] {41}In consequence of a sumptuary edict against luxury in apparel, Mesdames les Broderies-- @@ -1710,7 +1682,7 @@ les Broderies-- Qui, par une vaine despence, Ruinoient aujourd'huy la France"-- -meet, and concert measures for their common safety. Point de Gênes, with +meet, and concert measures for their common safety. Point de Gênes, with Point de Raguse, first address the company; next, Point de Venise, who seems to look on Raguse with a jealous eye, exclaims-- @@ -1750,7 +1722,7 @@ All were starting-- "Chacun, dissimulant sa rage, Doucement ploit son bagage, - Resolu d'obéir au sort," + Resolu d'obéir au sort," when @@ -1760,19 +1732,19 @@ when {42}arrives, in a great rage, from a village in the environs of Paris. "She is not of high birth, but has her feelings all the same. She will never submit. She has no refuge--not even a place in the hospital. Let them -follow her advice and 'elle engageoit sa chaînette,' she will replace them +follow her advice and 'elle engageoit sa chaînette,' she will replace them all in their former position." Next morn, the Points assemble. "Une grande Cravate[135] fanfaron" exclaims:-- "Il nous faut venger cet affront, - Revoltons-nous, noble assemblée." + Revoltons-nous, noble assemblée." A council of war ensues:-- - "La dessus, le Poinct d'Alençon - Ayant bien appris sa leçon + "La dessus, le Poinct d'Alençon + Ayant bien appris sa leçon Fit une fort belle harangue." Flanders now boasts how she had made two campaigns under Monsieur, as a @@ -1783,17 +1755,17 @@ at the siege of Dunkirk. one and all had figured at some siege or battle. - "Qu'avons nous à redouter?" + "Qu'avons nous à redouter?" -cries Dentelle d'Angleterre. No so, thinks Point de Gênes, "qui avoit le +cries Dentelle d'Angleterre. No so, thinks Point de Gênes, "qui avoit le corps un peu gros." They all swear-- "Foy de Passement, Foy de Poincts et de Broderie, - De Guipure et d'Orfévrerie, - De Gueuse de toute façon," + De Guipure et d'Orfévrerie, + De Gueuse de toute façon," to declare open war, and to banish the Parliament. @@ -1801,7 +1773,7 @@ The Laces assemble at the fair of St. Germain, there to be reviewed by General Luxe. The muster-roll is called over by Colonel Sotte Depense. Dentelles de -Moresse, Escadrons de Neige, Dentelles de Hâvre, Escrues, Soies noires, and +Moresse, Escadrons de Neige, Dentelles de Hâvre, Escrues, Soies noires, and Points d'Espagne, etc., march forth in warlike array, to conquer or to die. At the first approach of the artillery they all take to their heels, and are condemned by a council of war--the Points to be made into tinder, for @@ -1817,7 +1789,7 @@ Finally, through the intercession of Love-- they are again pardoned and restored to court favour. The poem is curious, as giving an account of the various kinds of lace, and -as a specimen of the taste of the time, but the "ton précieux" of the Hôtel +as a specimen of the taste of the time, but the "ton précieux" of the Hôtel Rambouillet pervades throughout. The lace trade, up to this period, was entirely in the hands of pedlars, @@ -1856,7 +1828,7 @@ passementiers.[144] PLATE X. -[Illustration: ITALIAN. POINT DE VENISE À LA ROSE. Modern reproduction at +[Illustration: ITALIAN. POINT DE VENISE À LA ROSE. Modern reproduction at Burano of seventeenth century lace. Width, 17 in. Photo by the Burano School.] @@ -1998,7 +1970,7 @@ period, though we hear little of them. PLATE XII -[Illustration: ITALIAN. POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU.--The upper ones are of +[Illustration: ITALIAN. POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU.--The upper ones are of yellow silk; a chalice veil, with dove and olive branch, and possibly an altar border. Probably late seventeenth century. The lower is thread, early eighteenth century. Width, 2 in. In private collections. @@ -2007,16 +1979,16 @@ Photos by A. Dryden.] _To face page 48._ -{49}Of "point couppé" there is mention, and enough, in handkerchiefs for +{49}Of "point couppé" there is mention, and enough, in handkerchiefs for Madame Gabrielle, shirts for the king, and fraizes for La Reine Margot; but whether they be of Venice or worked in France, we are unenlightened. The works of Vinciolo[161] and others had already been widely circulated, and -laces and point couppé now formed the favourite occupation of the ladies. +laces and point couppé now formed the favourite occupation of the ladies. Perhaps one of the earliest records of point de Venise will be found in a -ridiculous historiette of Tallemant des Réaux, who, gossiping of a certain +ridiculous historiette of Tallemant des Réaux, who, gossiping of a certain Madame de Puissieux,[162] writes: "On m'assuroit qu'elle mangeoit du point -coupé. Alors les points de Gênes, de Raguse, ni d'Aurillac ni de Venise -n'étoient point connus et on dit qu'au sermon elle mangea tout le derrière +coupé. Alors les points de Gênes, de Raguse, ni d'Aurillac ni de Venise +n'étoient point connus et on dit qu'au sermon elle mangea tout le derrière du collet d'un homme qui etoit assis devant elle." On what strange events hang the connecting threads of history! @@ -2090,10 +2062,10 @@ outlines are in relief, formed by means of cottons placed inside to raise them. Sometimes they are in double and triple relief; an infinity of beautiful stitches are introduced into the flowers, which are surrounded by a pearl of geometric regularity, the pearls sometimes in scallops or -"campané," as the French term it.[173] This is our Rose (raised) Venice +"campané," as the French term it.[173] This is our Rose (raised) Venice point, the Gros Point de Venise, the Punto a relievo, so highly prized and so extensively used for albs, collerettes, berthes, and costly decoration. -We give an example (Fig. 23) from a collar, preserved in the Musée de +We give an example (Fig. 23) from a collar, preserved in the Musée de Cluny, once the property of a Venetian nobleman, worn only on state occasions. @@ -2113,7 +2085,7 @@ point, a small irregular pattern supposed to have been copied from coral. {52}6. Punto a gropo, or gropari.[176]--Groppo, or gruppo, signifies a knot, or tie, and in this lace the threads are knotted together, like the -fringes of the Genoese macramè.[177] After this manner is made the trimming +fringes of the Genoese macramè.[177] After this manner is made the trimming to the linen scarfs or cloths which the Roman peasants wear folded square over the head, and hanging down the back. (Fig. 22.) @@ -2126,7 +2098,7 @@ Tuscans. (Fig. 24.) [Illustration: Fig. 23. -GROS POINT DE VENISE.--From the Collar of a Venetian Nobleman. Musée de +GROS POINT DE VENISE.--From the Collar of a Venetian Nobleman. Musée de Cluny, Paris. 16th century. N.B.--This drawing makes the work and design appear heavier than it is in @@ -2176,7 +2148,7 @@ French dealer, who probably paid him in ruffles for the advertisement. [Illustration: Fig. 26. -POINT DE VENISE À BRIDES PICOTÉES.--Early 18th century. +POINT DE VENISE À BRIDES PICOTÉES.--Early 18th century. _To Face page 54._] @@ -2222,7 +2194,7 @@ According to Zedler, an author who wrote about lace in 1742, the price of Venice point in high relief varied from one to nine ducats per Italian ell. The Venetians, unlike the Spaniards, thought much of their fine linen and -the decorations pertaining to it. "La camicia preme assai più del +the decorations pertaining to it. "La camicia preme assai più del giubbone," ran the proverb--"La chemise avant le pourpoint." Young nobles were not allowed to wear lace on their garments until they put on the robe, which they usually did at the age of five-and-twenty, on being admitted to @@ -2241,23 +2213,23 @@ camail, or hood of black lace, covering the chin up to the mouth, called a describes Lady Mary Wortley Montagu as wearing at Florence, 1762, in place of a cap. -_Point de Venise à réseau_ is chiefly distinguished by the conventional +_Point de Venise à réseau_ is chiefly distinguished by the conventional treatment of the flowers and ornament, and a general flat look of the work. The outlining thread or cordonnet is stitched to the edge of the pattern and worked in flatly. A minute border to the cordonnet of small meshes -intervenes between it and the réseau, which is of square {58}meshes and -always very fine. Whether the lace was derived from the Alençon, and was +intervenes between it and the réseau, which is of square {58}meshes and +always very fine. Whether the lace was derived from the Alençon, and was the result of an attempt to win back the custom the French manufacturers -were taking away from Venice, or whether it was Alençon that imitated the -Venetian réseau, is a moot point, but certain it is that the Venetian -product surpassed in fineness both Alençon and Brussels. Its very delicacy +were taking away from Venice, or whether it was Alençon that imitated the +Venetian réseau, is a moot point, but certain it is that the Venetian +product surpassed in fineness both Alençon and Brussels. Its very delicacy has been its destruction, so that very few specimens of this lace survive. Plate XII. _Mezzo Punto_, or mixed Venetian guipure, was a mixed point lace, of which the scrolls and flowers were outlined in pillow-lace, or by a tape, and the designs filled in with needle fillings, and connected by pearled brides on -a coarse needle-made réseau. This variety of lace was sometimes made of +a coarse needle-made réseau. This variety of lace was sometimes made of silk. In point de Venise, flat or raised, the pattern is always connected by an irregular network of pearled brides. Real brides connecting the flowers here and there hardly ever occur; and the number of picots attached @@ -2265,8 +2237,8 @@ to one single branch of the bride network never exceeds two. The elaborately ornamental detached brides and a multiplicity of picots are characteristic of "Spanish point" and early point de France. -The old Burano laces were a coarser outcome of the point de Venise à -réseau, and alone of all Venetian needle laces survived the dark days of +The old Burano laces were a coarser outcome of the point de Venise à +réseau, and alone of all Venetian needle laces survived the dark days of the close of the eighteenth century. Some fine specimens of these were shown by M. Dupont d'Auberville in the International Exhibition, and Marini quotes from a document of the seventeenth century, in which, speaking of @@ -2279,7 +2251,7 @@ Flanders, and in solidity superior." A new departure has been taken in modern times, in the making of hand-made laces at the island of Burano, near Venice, where a large number of girls were employed in the eighteenth century, both in the town and the convents, -in making a point closely resembling that of Alençon. Here the art lingered +in making a point closely resembling that of Alençon. Here the art lingered on as late as 1845, when a superannuated nun of ninety, with whom Mrs. Dennistoun, of Dennistoun, conversed on the subject, said how in her younger days she and her companions employed their time in the fabric of @@ -2289,18 +2261,18 @@ on paper: the ground is made right across the thread of the lace. [Illustration: Fig. 31. -POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU.--Early 18th century. N.B.--Mrs. Palliser +POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU.--Early 18th century. N.B.--Mrs. Palliser incorrectly described this as Brussels in her first Editions. _To face page 58._] -{59}Burano point had not the extreme delicacy of the Venetian point à -réseau or of Alençon, and the late Alençon patterns were copied. Though +{59}Burano point had not the extreme delicacy of the Venetian point à +réseau or of Alençon, and the late Alençon patterns were copied. Though needle-made, it was worked on a pillow arranged with a cylinder for -convenience of working. The unevenness of the thread gives the réseau a +convenience of working. The unevenness of the thread gives the réseau a cloudy appearance, and the cordonnet is, like the Brussels needlepoint, of -thread stitched round the outline instead of the Alençon button-hole stitch -over horse-hair. The mesh of the réseau is square, as in Alençon. +thread stitched round the outline instead of the Alençon button-hole stitch +over horse-hair. The mesh of the réseau is square, as in Alençon. Fig. 32 is copied from a specimen purchased at Burano by the Cav. Merli, of the maker, an old woman known by the name of Cencia Scarpariola. In 1866, @@ -2387,7 +2359,7 @@ it practised on a large scale." The lace made in the school is no longer confined, as in the origin it was, to Burano point, but laces of almost any design or model are now -undertaken--point de Burano, point d'Alençon, point de Bruxelles, point +undertaken--point de Burano, point d'Alençon, point de Bruxelles, point d'Angleterre, point d'Argentan, rose point de Venise, Italian punto in aria, and Italian punto tagliato a fogliami. The school has been enriched by gifts of antique lace, and Queen Margherita gave the school permission @@ -2477,8 +2449,8 @@ Milan fashion, for child's waistcoat." A French edict, dated March, 1613, against superfluity in dress, prohibiting the wearing of gold and silver embroidery, specially forbids -the use of all "passement de Milan, ou façon de Milan" under a penalty of -one thousand livres.[201] The expression "à point de Milan" occurs in the +the use of all "passement de Milan, ou façon de Milan" under a penalty of +one thousand livres.[201] The expression "à point de Milan" occurs in the statutes of the passementiers of Paris.[202] "Les galons, passements et broderies, en or et en argent de Milan," says @@ -2520,10 +2492,10 @@ The so-called punti di Milano--points de Milan--were all bobbin-laces, which originated in Milan, and, though imitated by Genoa and Naples, remained unapproached in design and workmanship. After first making passements, Milan imitated the Venetian points, "a fogliami," in which the -pattern has the appearance of woven linen, with à jours occasionally +pattern has the appearance of woven linen, with à jours occasionally introduced to lighten portions of it. The design was at first connected with bars, but later, meshes (in the seventeenth century large meshes, and, -still later, smaller {66}meshes) filled the ground. This réseau varies, but +still later, smaller {66}meshes) filled the ground. This réseau varies, but most frequently it has four plaited sides to a mesh, as in Valenciennes. Like other Italian laces, Milanese lace frequently has coats-of-arms or @@ -2549,18 +2521,18 @@ FLORENCE. Of Florence and its products we know but little, though the Elegy of Agnolo Firenzuola proves that ladies made raised point at an early period.[207] -His expression "scolpì," carved, sculptured in basso rilievo, leaves no +His expression "scolpì," carved, sculptured in basso rilievo, leaves no doubt upon the matter. PLATE XVI. [Illustration: ITALIAN, VENETIAN. NEEDLE-MADE.--Very raised and padded. -First half of eighteenth century. Width, 3¼ in.] +First half of eighteenth century. Width, 3¼ in.] PLATE XVII. [Illustration: ITALIAN, MILANESE. BOBBIN-MADE.--Early eighteenth century. -Width, 5¾ in. +Width, 5¾ in. Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] @@ -2597,14 +2569,14 @@ Florence in our English records. In France, as early as 1545, the sister of Francis I. purchases "soixante aulnes fine dantelle de Florence"[210] for her own use, and some years -afterwards, 1582, the Queen of Navarre pays 17 écus 30 sols for 10 aulnes -et demye of the same passement "faict à l'esguille à haulte dantelle pour -mettre à des fraizes."[211] On the marriage of Elizabeth de France with +afterwards, 1582, the Queen of Navarre pays 17 écus 30 sols for 10 aulnes +et demye of the same passement "faict à l'esguille à haulte dantelle pour +mettre à des fraizes."[211] On the marriage of Elizabeth de France with Philip II. in 1559, purchases were made of "passements et de bisette, en fil blanc de Florence." Seeing the early date of these French accounts, it may be inferred that -Catherine de Médicis first introduced, on her arrival as a bride, the +Catherine de Médicis first introduced, on her arrival as a bride, the Italian points of her own native city.[212] In Florence, in the fifteenth century, Savonarola, in his sermons @@ -2623,7 +2595,7 @@ network. Early in the last century two Genoese nuns, of the Convent Sta. Maria degli Angeli in Sienna, executed pillow laces and gold and silver embroidery of such surpassing beauty, that they are still carefully preserved and -publicly exhibited on fête-days. One Francesca Bulgarini also instructed +publicly exhibited on fête-days. One Francesca Bulgarini also instructed the schools in the making of lace of every kind, especially the Venetian reticella.[213] @@ -2690,7 +2662,7 @@ round his holiness's waist." In this guise protected, he performed the ceremony. Clement IX. was in the habit of making presents of Italian lace, at that -period still prized in France, to Monsieur de Sorbière, with whom he had +period still prized in France, to Monsieur de Sorbière, with whom he had lived on terms of intimacy previous to his elevation. "He sends ruffles," cries the irritated Gaul, who looked for something more tangible, "to a man who never has a shirt."[218] @@ -2710,7 +2682,7 @@ point de Venise and gold lace are all turned into horses and liveries.[220] PLATE XVIII. [Illustration: CUSHION MADE AT THE SCHOOL.--These coloured silk laces are -reproductions of the sixteenth century. Size, 20 × 12 in.] +reproductions of the sixteenth century. Size, 20 × 12 in.] PLATE XIX. @@ -2784,14 +2756,14 @@ Great Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth, where laces of Jeane of black noted down. They were, however, all of silk. It is not till after a lapse of nigh seventy years that first Point de -Gênes appears mentioned in an ordinance,[227] and in the wardrobe of Mary -de Médicis is enumerated, among other articles, a "mouchoir de point de -Gennes frisé."[228] +Gênes appears mentioned in an ordinance,[227] and in the wardrobe of Mary +de Médicis is enumerated, among other articles, a "mouchoir de point de +Gennes frisé."[228] {73}Moryson, who visited the Republic in 1589, declares "the Genoese wear no lace or gardes." -As late as 1597, writes Vulson de la Colombière,[229] "ni les points de +As late as 1597, writes Vulson de la Colombière,[229] "ni les points de Gennes, ni de Flandre n'etoient en usage." It was not before the middle of the seventeenth century that the points of @@ -2803,11 +2775,11 @@ No better customer was found for these luxurious articles of adornment than the fair Madame de Puissieux, already cited for her singular taste in cut-work. -"Elle étoit magnifique et ruina elle et ses enfans. On portoit en ce -temps-la," writes St. Simon; "force points de Gênes qui étoient extrêmement -chers; c'étoit la grande parure--et la parure de tout age: elle en mangea -pour 100,000 ecus (£20,000) en une année, à ronger entre ses dents celle -qu'elle avoit autour de sa tête et de ses bras."[231] +"Elle étoit magnifique et ruina elle et ses enfans. On portoit en ce +temps-la," writes St. Simon; "force points de Gênes qui étoient extrêmement +chers; c'étoit la grande parure--et la parure de tout age: elle en mangea +pour 100,000 ecus (£20,000) en une année, à ronger entre ses dents celle +qu'elle avoit autour de sa tête et de ses bras."[231] "The Genoese utter a world of points of needlework," writes Lassels, at the end of the century, and throughout the eighteenth we hear constantly of the @@ -2841,13 +2813,13 @@ city. The points of Genoa, so prized in the seventeenth century, were all the work of the pillow, _a piombini_,[235] or _a mazzetta_, as the Italians term it, of fine handspun thread brought from Lombardy. Silk was procured from Naples. Of this Lombardy thread were the magnificent collars of which -we give an example (Fig. 35), and the fine guipures _à réseau_ which were +we give an example (Fig. 35), and the fine guipures _à réseau_ which were fashioned into aprons and fichus. The old Genoa point still finds favour in -the eyes of the clergy, and on fête days, either at Genoa or Savona, may be +the eyes of the clergy, and on fête days, either at Genoa or Savona, may be seen splendid lace decorating the _camicie_ of the ecclesiastics. The Ligurian or Genoese guipures have four entirely distinctive characters. -The Hispano-Moresque (or Greek) point de Gênes frisé, the Vermicelli from +The Hispano-Moresque (or Greek) point de Gênes frisé, the Vermicelli from Rapallo and Santa Margherita, a lace resembling Milanese lace with "brides," and a fourth kind, entirely different from these varieties, called _fugio_ (I fly), as it is very soft and airy. It is an adaptation of @@ -2861,7 +2833,7 @@ to draw the knot tight. GENOA POINT, BOBBIN-MADE. From a collar in the possession of the Author. -This is an elaborate specimen of Point de Gênes frisé--Italian merletti a +This is an elaborate specimen of Point de Gênes frisé--Italian merletti a piombini. The plaits almost invariably consist of four threads. _To face page 74._] @@ -2900,7 +2872,7 @@ _maestri_ contrive to realise large fortunes, and become in time _signori_; not so the poor lace-makers, whose hardest day's gain seldom exceeds a franc and a half.[239] Embroidered lace is also made at Genoa. On a band of tulle are embroidered in darning-stitch flowers or small detached springs, -and the ground is sometimes _semé_ with little embroidered dots. A coarse +and the ground is sometimes _semé_ with little embroidered dots. A coarse thread outlines the embroidery. {76}[Illustration: Fig. 36. @@ -2909,7 +2881,7 @@ LACE PATTERN FOUND IN THE CHURCH AT SANTA MARGHERITA (circ. 1592).] PLATE XX. -[Illustration: ITALIAN. BOBBIN TAPE WITH NEEDLE-MADE RÉSEAU. Width, 8 in. +[Illustration: ITALIAN. BOBBIN TAPE WITH NEEDLE-MADE RÉSEAU. Width, 8 in. Photo by A. Dryden.] @@ -2951,15 +2923,15 @@ lire a day. The last fine laces made at Albissola were bought up by the lace-merchants of Milan on the occasion of the coronation of Napoleon I. in that city.[243] -Among the Alençon laces is illustrated a beautiful lappet sent from Genoa, +Among the Alençon laces is illustrated a beautiful lappet sent from Genoa, now in the Victoria and Albert Museum.[244] The pattern is of the Louis Quinze period, and the lovely diapered ground recalls the mayflower of the -Dresden and the oeil-de-perdrix of the Sèvres china of that time. It was +Dresden and the oeil-de-perdrix of the Sèvres china of that time. It was supposed to be of Italian workmanship, though the very fine ground -introduced in the _modes_ of the riband pattern is the true Alençon réseau -stitch. M. Dupont Auberville claimed it for Alençon, asserting he had met +introduced in the _modes_ of the riband pattern is the true Alençon réseau +stitch. M. Dupont Auberville claimed it for Alençon, asserting he had met with the same ground on point undoubtedly of that manufacture. He named it -_réseau rosacé_. +_réseau rosacé_. A considerable quantity of lace was formerly made from {79}the fibre of the aloe (filo d'erba spada)[245] by the peasants of Albissola, either of its @@ -2971,16 +2943,16 @@ convents along the Riviera. It is carried to a great perfection at Chiavari and also at the Albergo de' Poveri at Genoa. You see it in every stage. It is almost the first employment of the fingers which the poor children of either sex learn. This art is principally applied to the ornamenting of -towels, termed Macramé,[247] a long fringe of thread being left at each end +towels, termed Macramé,[247] a long fringe of thread being left at each end for the purpose of being knotted together in geometrical designs (Fig. 38). -Macramé at the Albergo de' Poveri were formerly made with a plain plaited +Macramé at the Albergo de' Poveri were formerly made with a plain plaited fringe, till in 1843, the Baroness A. d' Asti brought one from Rome, richly ornamented, which she left as a pattern. Marie Picchetti, a young girl, had the patience to unpick the fringe and discover the way it was made. A variety of designs are now executed, the more experienced inventing fresh patterns as they work. Some are applied to church purposes. Specimens of elaborate workmanship were in the Paris Exhibition of 1867. These -richly-trimmed macramé form an item in the wedding trousseau of a Genoese +richly-trimmed macramé form an item in the wedding trousseau of a Genoese lady, while the commoner sorts find a ready sale in the country, and are also exported to South America and California.[248] @@ -2999,7 +2971,7 @@ bobbins with both thread and silk. [Illustration: Fig. 38. -FRINGED MACRAMÉ.--(Genoa.)] +FRINGED MACRAMÉ.--(Genoa.)] SICILY. @@ -3053,7 +3025,7 @@ GREECE. D'en vouloir purger un Estat; Les gens aussi fins que vous estes Ne sont bons que comme vous faites - Pour ruiner les Estats."--_La Révolte des Passemens._ + Pour ruiner les Estats."--_La Révolte des Passemens._ We have already spoken of Greece as the cradle of embroidery, and in those @@ -3093,8 +3065,8 @@ in its native isles, chiefly for ecclesiastical purposes, the dress of the islanders, and for grave-clothes. In our English statutes we have no allusion to the point de Raguse; in -those of France[254] it appears twice. "Tallemant des Réaux"[255] and the -"Révolte des Passemens"[256] both give it honourable notice. Judging from +those of France[254] it appears twice. "Tallemant des Réaux"[255] and the +"Révolte des Passemens"[256] both give it honourable notice. Judging from the lines addressed to it in the last-named _jeu d'esprit_, point de Raguse was of a more costly character, "faite pour ruiner les estats,"[257] than any of those other points present. If, however, from this period it did @@ -3127,9 +3099,9 @@ Photo by A. Dryden from Salviati & Co.'s Collection.] PLATE XXVI. [Illustration: SOUTH ITALIAN.--The upper one is seventeenth century Church -lace--réseau of threads twisted into star-shaped meshes. The three lower +lace--réseau of threads twisted into star-shaped meshes. The three lower are considered eighteenth century CRETAN. All pillow made of thread and -silk. Widths: 2, 2½, 1¾, 3¾ in. +silk. Widths: 2, 2½, 1¾, 3¾ in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] @@ -3239,7 +3211,7 @@ erected to his memory. [Illustration: Fig. 41. -LOUBEUX DE VERDALE.--(From the cast of his Tomb, Musée de Versailles.)] +LOUBEUX DE VERDALE.--(From the cast of his Tomb, Musée de Versailles.)] Pillow-laces made by women in Ceylon and Travancore, as well as elsewhere in India,[263] seem to owe more to the instruction of the Portuguese than @@ -3342,7 +3314,7 @@ of gold lace. The name point d'Espagne was, I think, a commercial one, given to gold lace by French makers.[268] Dominique de Sera, in his _Livre de Lingerie_, published in 1584, -especially mentions that many of the patterns of point couppé and passement +especially mentions that many of the patterns of point couppé and passement given were collected by him during his travels in Spain; and in this he is probably correct, for as early as 1562, in the Great Wardrobe Account of Queen Elizabeth, we have noted down sixteen yards of black Spanish _laquei_ @@ -3361,7 +3333,7 @@ alb presented to the church by Ferdinand and Isabella, one of the few relics of ecclesiastical grandeur still extant in the country." The late Cardinal Wiseman stated to Mrs. Palliser that he had himself officiated in this vestment, which was valued at 10,000 {93}crowns. But the following -passage from Señor Riano greatly affects the value of what would otherwise +passage from Señor Riano greatly affects the value of what would otherwise be a fact of importance adduced by Mrs. Palliser. "Notwithstanding the opinion of so competent an authority as Mrs. Palliser, I doubt the statement, finding no evidence to support it, that thread lace of a very @@ -3383,14 +3355,14 @@ saints rendered this work a labour of love, when in plying their needles they called to mind its destination. Among the illustrations are some photographs received from Rome of some curious relics of old Spanish conventual work, parchment patterns with the lace in progress. They were -found in the Convent of Jesù Bambino, and belonged to some Spanish nuns +found in the Convent of Jesù Bambino, and belonged to some Spanish nuns who, in bygone ages, taught the art to the novices. None of the present inmates can give further information respecting them. The work, like all point, was executed in separate pieces given out to the different nuns and then joined together by a more skilful hand. In Fig. 44 we see the pattern traced out by two threads fixed in their places by small stitches made at intervals by a needle and aloe[273] thread working from underneath. The -réseau ground is alone worked in. We see the thread left as by Sister +réseau ground is alone worked in. We see the thread left as by Sister Felice Vittoria when she last plied her task. {94}Fig. 45 has the pearled ground, the pattern traced as in the other. @@ -3453,7 +3425,7 @@ producing the artistic and valuable point lace, which unexpectedly came out of Spain after the dissolution of the monasteries." The ordinance of Philip III, against the wearing of lace, dated 1623, which -enjoined "simples rabats, sans aucune invention de point couppé ou +enjoined "simples rabats, sans aucune invention de point couppé ou passement" for the men, with fraises and manchettes in like trim for the ladies, both too without starch,[276] and which extended to gold and silver lace, was suspended during the matrimonial visit of Prince Charles;[277] @@ -3476,7 +3448,7 @@ their vanity, they would rather have one of these lace _sabenquas_ than a dozen coarse ones;[279] and either lie in bed till it is washed, or dress themselves without any, which they frequently enough do." A number of portraits exist in the Spanish galleries, {98}especially by Velasquez and -Carrêno, in which these extravagant costumes are fully portrayed, but in +Carrêno, in which these extravagant costumes are fully portrayed, but in very few Spanish portraits of the seventeenth century does thread lace of the kind known to us as point d'Espagne, or de Venise ever appear. Describing her visit to the Princess of Monteleon, the author continues: @@ -3496,14 +3468,14 @@ silver points, have always enjoyed a certain reputation. Of the latter, during the seventeenth century, we have constant mention in the wardrobe accounts and books of fashion of the French court. The description of the celebrated gold bed at Versailles, the interior lacings of the carriages, -the velvet and brocade coats and dresses, "chamarrés de point d'Espagne," +the velvet and brocade coats and dresses, "chamarrés de point d'Espagne," the laces of gold and coloured silk, would alone fill a volume to themselves.[283] {99}Narciso Felin, writing in the seventeenth century,[284] says that at that time "edgings of all sorts of gold,[285] silver, silk, thread, and aloe, are made there with greater perfection than in Flanders." Campany, another old author, carries the number of lace-makers to 12,000. The Spaniards are said, nevertheless, in 1634, to -have derived a great part of their laces from the Île de France, while the +have derived a great part of their laces from the ÃŽle de France, while the French, on their part, preferred those of Flanders.[286] That the lace import was considered excessive is evident by the tariff of 1667; the import duty of twenty-five reals per pound on lace was augmented to two @@ -3519,7 +3491,7 @@ Spain's money, I would beg them to send a low-priced lace for the linen." {100}This gold point d'Espagne was much fabricated for home consumption. The oldest banner of the Inquisition--that of Valladolid--is described as bordered with real point d'Espagne, of a curious Gothic (geometric) design. -At the Auto-da-fè, the grandees of Spain and officers of the Holy Office +At the Auto-da-fè, the grandees of Spain and officers of the Holy Office marched attired in cloaks, with black and white crosses, edged with this gold lace. Silver point d'Espagne was also worn on the uniform of the Maestranza, a body of nobility formed into an order of chivalry at Seville, @@ -3532,14 +3504,14 @@ described as "glorious." OLD SPANISH PILLOW-LACE.] Point d'Espagne was likewise made in France, introduced by one Simon -Châtelain, a Huguenot, about 1596, in return for which good services he +Châtelain, a Huguenot, about 1596, in return for which good services he received more protection than his advanced opinions warranted. Colbert, becoming minister in 1662, guaranteed to Simon his safety--a boon already refused to many by the intolerant spirit of the times. He died in 1675, having amassed a large fortune.[287] That the fabric prospered, the -following entry in the wardrobe accounts of the Duke de Penthièvre, 1732, -gives proof:[288] "Un bord de Point d'Espagne d'or de Paris, à fonds de -réseau." "France," writes Anderson, "exports much lace into Spain." +following entry in the wardrobe accounts of the Duke de Penthièvre, 1732, +gives proof:[288] "Un bord de Point d'Espagne d'or de Paris, à fonds de +réseau." "France," writes Anderson, "exports much lace into Spain." PLATE XXXI. @@ -3559,8 +3531,8 @@ them or gain the manufacture." But towards the middle of the eighteenth century there are notices of constant seizures of vessels bound from St. Malo to Cadiz, freighted with gold and silver lace. The _Eagle_, French vessel, taken by Captain Carr, in 1745, bore cases to the value of -£150,000.[290] In 1789 we also read that the exports of lace from the port -of Marseilles alone to Cadiz exceeded £500,000,[291] and the author of the +£150,000.[290] In 1789 we also read that the exports of lace from the port +of Marseilles alone to Cadiz exceeded £500,000,[291] and the author of the _Apendice a la Educacion Popular_[292] states that "all the five qualities (of lace) come from foreign lands, and the greater varieties of coarser ones." @@ -3615,7 +3587,7 @@ manufactory, whose products are specially used for the blondes of the country. Spanish silk laces do not equal in workmanship those of Bayeux and Chantilly, either in the firmness of the ground or regularity of the pattern. The annual produce of this industry scarcely amounts to -£80,000.[304] +£80,000.[304] Specimens of Barcelona white lace have been forwarded to us from Spain, bearing the dates of 1810, 1820, 1830 and 1840. Some have much resemblance @@ -3639,19 +3611,19 @@ flowers supported by Cupids. In the official report on Lace and Embroidery at the International Exhibition of that year, we read that "the manufacture of black and white Spanish lace shows considerable progress since 1851, both in respect of design and fabrication. The black mantillas vary in -value from £4 to £50, and upwards of 20,000 persons are said to be employed +value from £4 to £50, and upwards of 20,000 persons are said to be employed in their manufacture." Before concluding our account of Spanish lace, we must allude to the "dentelles de Moresse," supposed by M. Francisque Michel[307] to be of Iberian origin, fabricated by the descendants of the Moors who remained in Spain and embraced Christianity. These points are named in the -above-mentioned "Révolte des Passemens," where the author thus announces +above-mentioned "Révolte des Passemens," where the author thus announces their arrival at the fair of St. Germain:-- "Il en vint que, le plus souvent. On disoit venir du Levant; - Il en vint des bords de l'Ibère. + Il en vint des bords de l'Ibère. Il en vint d'arriver n'agueres Des pays septentrionaux." @@ -3681,7 +3653,7 @@ but the knotting stitch is their peculiar tradition. Same size.] PLATE XXXIII. [Illustration: SPANISH.--The upper one is a copy of Italian lace clumsily -made. The lower is probably a "dentelle de Moresse." Widths about 3½ in. +made. The lower is probably a "dentelle de Moresse." Widths about 3½ in. Photo by A. Dryden from Salviati & Co.'s Collection.] @@ -3702,7 +3674,7 @@ there solemnly offered to the Virgin the jewels and a dress of the richest Portuguese point she had worn on the day of her espousals. This lace is described as most magnificent, and was for near a century exhibited under a glass case to admiring eyes, till, at the French occupation of the -Peninsula, the Duchesse d'Abrantès, or one of the Imperial generals, is +Peninsula, the Duchesse d'Abrantès, or one of the Imperial generals, is supposed to have made off with it.[313] When Lisbon arose from her ashes after the terrible earthquake of 1755, the Marquis de Pombal founded large manufactures of lace, which were carried on under his auspices. Wraxall, in @@ -3725,7 +3697,7 @@ the wider for flounces are of silk: much narrow lace is made after the fashion of Mechlin. Both Spain and Portugal enjoy a certain reputation for their imitation white Chantilly lace. A considerable quantity of coarse white lace, very effective in pattern, was formerly made in Lisbon and the -environs;[314] this was chiefly exported, _viâ_ Cadiz, to South America. +environs;[314] this was chiefly exported, _viâ_ Cadiz, to South America. Both black and white are {107}extensively made in the peninsula of Peniche, north of Lisbon (Estremadura Province), and employ the whole female population. Children at four years of age are sent to the lace school, and @@ -3755,7 +3727,7 @@ of the linen trousers of the guachos, and the Creva lace of the blacks of the Province of Minas Geraes, are the finest specimens of drawn-work. The lace of Chili is of the old lozenge pattern, and men also appear to be employed on the work. In Paraguay there are two sorts of work--Nanduti or -"toile d'arraignée," made in silk or thread by a needle on a cardboard +"toile d'arraignée," made in silk or thread by a needle on a cardboard pattern by the copper-coloured natives as an industry; also embroidery and drawn thread-work on linen, of which there are specimens in the Victoria and Albert Museum--all traditions of the European missionaries and traders @@ -3763,7 +3735,7 @@ who first colonised the country. PLATE XXXIV. -[Illustration: SPANISH.--Pillow made nineteenth century. Réseau of two +[Illustration: SPANISH.--Pillow made nineteenth century. Réseau of two threads twisted and crossed. Slightly reduced.] PLATE XXXV @@ -3800,8 +3772,8 @@ altar-piece, attributed to Quentin Matsys (in a side chapel of the choir of St. Peter's, at Louvain), in which a girl is represented making lace with bobbins on a pillow with a drawer, similar to that now in use.[318] There exists a series of engravings after Martin de Vos (1580-85), giving the -occupations of the seven ages of life: in the third,[319] assigned to _âge -mûr_, is seen a girl, sitting with a pillow on her knees, making lace (Fig. +occupations of the seven ages of life: in the third,[319] assigned to _âge +mûr_, is seen a girl, sitting with a pillow on her knees, making lace (Fig. 50). The occupation must have been then common, or the artist would scarcely have chosen it to characterise the habits of his country. @@ -3815,7 +3787,7 @@ the sixteenth. LACE-MAKING.--(After Martin de Vos.)] The triptych at Louvain is reproduced and described in detail by Van Even -in his work, _Louvain dans le passé et dans le présent_;[320] it consists +in his work, _Louvain dans le passé et dans le présent_;[320] it consists of five panels, the centre panel representing "La famille de Sainte Anne"; but among all the figures none, however, appear to be engaged in making lace or, indeed, in any form of needlework. @@ -3871,7 +3843,7 @@ the most palmy days of the Netherlands. [Illustration: Fig. 51. -CAP OF THE EMPEROR CHARLES V.--(Musée de Cluny.) +CAP OF THE EMPEROR CHARLES V.--(Musée de Cluny.) This engraving is not accurately drawn. The spaces contain birds and crosses, and not sprigs.] @@ -3888,7 +3860,7 @@ it to be taught in the schools and convents. Examples of the manufactures of his period may be seen in the cap said to be worn by him under his crown, and in the contemporary portrait of his sister Mary, Queen of Hungary. This cap, long preserved in the treasury of the bishop-princes of -Basle, has now passed into the Musée de Cluny (Fig. 51). It is of fine +Basle, has now passed into the Musée de Cluny (Fig. 51). It is of fine linen; the imperial arms are embroidered in relief, alternate with designs in lacis of exquisite workmanship.[325] @@ -3896,7 +3868,7 @@ in lacis of exquisite workmanship.[325] [Illustration: Fig. 53. MARY, QUEEN OF HUNGARY, GOVERNESS OF THE LOW COUNTRIES. +1558.--(From her -portrait, Musée de Versailles.)] +portrait, Musée de Versailles.)] Queen Mary's cuffs (Fig. 53) are of the geometric pattern of the age, and we may presume, of Flanders make, as she was Governess of the Low Countries @@ -3908,7 +3880,7 @@ those of our Queen Elizabeth, or Reine Margot. But to return to our subject. Of the lace schools there were nearly 900 in 1875, either in the convents or founded by private charity. At the age of five small girls commence {114}their apprenticeship; by ten they earn their -maintenance; and it is a pretty sight, an "école dentellière," the children +maintenance; and it is a pretty sight, an "école dentellière," the children seated before their pillows, twisting their bobbins with wonderful dexterity. (Fig. 54.) @@ -3935,7 +3907,7 @@ father--here they beggar him. Child," he winds up, "I charge you tell this to thy wyfe in bed, and it may be that she, understanding the benefit it will be to her and her children, will turn Dutchwoman and endeavour to save moneys." Notwithstanding this good advice, in 1768 England received from -Flanders lace-work £250,000 to her disadvantage, as compared to her +Flanders lace-work £250,000 to her disadvantage, as compared to her exports. [Illustration: Fig. 55. @@ -3998,7 +3970,7 @@ error explained to us by history. PLATE XXXVII. -[Illustration: BRUSSELS. POINT D'ANGLETERRE À BRIDES. CROWN OF A CAP.--Last +[Illustration: BRUSSELS. POINT D'ANGLETERRE À BRIDES. CROWN OF A CAP.--Last half of seventeenth century. The property of Mr. Arthur Blackborne.] @@ -4043,7 +4015,7 @@ effaced by "point d'Angleterre,"[332] a name it still retains.[333] On consulting, however, the English Royal Inventories of {118}the time, we find no mention of "English point." In France, on the other hand, the fashion books of the day[334] commend to the notice of the reader, "Corsets -chamarrés de point d'Angleterre," with vests, gloves, and cravats trimmed +chamarrés de point d'Angleterre," with vests, gloves, and cravats trimmed with the same material. Among the effects of Madame de Simiane, dated 1681, were many articles of English point;[335] and Monseigneur the Archbishop of Bourges, who died some few years later, had two cambric toilettes trimmed @@ -4055,7 +4027,7 @@ The little town of Binche, long of lace-making celebrity, has been the most successful. Binche, however, now only makes pillow flowers (point plat), and those of an inferior quality. -When, in 1756, Mrs. Calderwood visited the Béguinage at Brussels, she wrote +When, in 1756, Mrs. Calderwood visited the Béguinage at Brussels, she wrote to a friend describing the lace-making. "A part of their work is grounding lace; the manufacture is very curious. One person works the flowers. They are all sold separate, and you will see a very pretty sprig, for which the @@ -4086,7 +4058,7 @@ BRUSSELS NEEDLE-POINT. _To face page 118._] {119}It is the fineness of the thread which renders the real Brussels -ground (_vrai réseau_, called in Flanders, "droschel") so costly.[339] The +ground (_vrai réseau_, called in Flanders, "droschel") so costly.[339] The difficulty of procuring this fine thread at any cost prevented the art being established in other countries. We all know how, during the last fifty years of the bygone century, a mania existed in the United Kingdom @@ -4105,15 +4077,15 @@ Flanders, and five or six different artists are employed to form the nice part of this fabric, so that it is a complicated {120}art which cannot be transplanted without a passion as strong as mine for manufactures, and a purse much stronger. At Brussels, from one pound of flax alone they can -manufacture to the value of £700 sterling." +manufacture to the value of £700 sterling." There were two kinds of ground used in Brussels lace, the bride and the -réseau. The bride was first employed, but, even a century back,[340] had +réseau. The bride was first employed, but, even a century back,[340] had been discontinued, and was then only made to order. Nine ells of -"Angleterre à bride" appear in the bills of Madame du Barry.[341] The lace +"Angleterre à bride" appear in the bills of Madame du Barry.[341] The lace so made was generally of most exquisite workmanship, as many magnificent specimens of "bas d'aube,"[342] now converted into flounces, attest. -Sometimes bride and réseau were mixed.[343] In the inventories the +Sometimes bride and réseau were mixed.[343] In the inventories the description of ground is always minutely specified.[344] (See Plates XXXVII., XLVII., XLVIII., XLIX., LI.) @@ -4125,11 +4097,11 @@ _To face page 120._] [Illustration: Fig. 58A. -BRUSSELS. POINT À L'AIGUILLE.--Formerly belonged to H.M. Queen Charlotte. +BRUSSELS. POINT À L'AIGUILLE.--Formerly belonged to H.M. Queen Charlotte. _To face page 120._] -{121}The réseau was made in two ways,[345] by hand (à l'aiguille), and on +{121}The réseau was made in two ways,[345] by hand (à l'aiguille), and on the pillow (au fuseau). The needleground is worked from one flower to another, as in Fig. 44. The pillow is made in small strips of an inch in width, and from seven to forty-five inches long, joined together by a @@ -4137,13 +4109,13 @@ stitch long known to the lace-makers of Brussels and Bayeux only,[346] called "point de raccroc"--in English, "fine joining"--and consisting of a fresh stitch formed with a needle between the two pieces to be united. It requires the greatest nicety to join the segments of shawls and other large -pieces. Since machine-made net has come into use the "vrai réseau" is +pieces. Since machine-made net has come into use the "vrai réseau" is rarely made, save for royal trousseaux (Figs. 57 and 58). There are two kinds of flowers: those made with the needle are called -"point à l'aiguille"; those on the pillow, "point plat."[347] The best +"point à l'aiguille"; those on the pillow, "point plat."[347] The best flowers are made in Brussels itself, where they have attained a perfection -in the relief (point brodé) unequalled by those made in the surrounding +in the relief (point brodé) unequalled by those made in the surrounding villages and in Hainault. The last have one great fault. Coming soiled from the hands of the lace-makers, they have a reddish-yellow cast. In order to obviate this evil the workwoman, previous to sewing the flowers on the @@ -4154,12 +4126,12 @@ flannel or other woollen tissues bleached with sulphur, which discolours the white lead. Bottles containing scent, the sea air, or a heated room, will produce the same disagreeable change, and the colour is with difficulty restored. This custom of powdering yellow lace is of old date. -We read in 1782[348]: "On tolère en même temps les dentelles jaunes et fort -sales, poudrez-les à blanc pour cacher leur vetusté, dut la fraude -paroître, n'importe, vous avez des dentelles vous êtes bien dispensé de la -propreté mais non du luxe." Mrs. Delany writes in 1734: "Your head and +We read in 1782[348]: "On tolère en même temps les dentelles jaunes et fort +sales, poudrez-les à blanc pour cacher leur vetusté, dut la fraude +paroître, n'importe, vous avez des dentelles vous êtes bien dispensé de la +propreté mais non du luxe." Mrs. Delany writes in 1734: "Your head and ruffles are being made up, but Brussels always look yellow;" and she was -right, for flax thread soon returns to its natural "crêmée" hue. Yet, +right, for flax thread soon returns to its natural "crêmée" hue. Yet, "How curled her hair, how clean her Brussels lace!" @@ -4175,11 +4147,11 @@ making of Brussels lace is so complicated that each process is, as before mentioned, assigned to a different hand, who works only at her special department. The first, termed-- -1. Drocheleuse (Flemish, drocheles), makes the vrai réseau. +1. Drocheleuse (Flemish, drocheles), makes the vrai réseau. -2. Dentelière (kantwerkes), the footing. +2. Dentelière (kantwerkes), the footing. -3. Pointeuse (needlewerkes), the point à l'aiguille flowers. +3. Pointeuse (needlewerkes), the point à l'aiguille flowers. 4. Platteuse (platwerkes), makes the plat flowers. @@ -4205,7 +4177,7 @@ the flowing lines which prevailed till the end of the last century. (Fig. 60.) In its turn succeeded the _genre fleuri_ of the First Empire, an assemblage -of flowers, sprigs, columns, wreaths, and petits semés, such as spots, +of flowers, sprigs, columns, wreaths, and petits semés, such as spots, crosses, stars, etc. In flowers, the palm and pyramidal forms predominated. Under the Restoration the flowery style remained in fashion, but the palms and pyramids became more rare. Since 1830 great changes have taken place in @@ -4219,7 +4191,7 @@ _To face page 122._] {123}The lace industry of Brussels is now divided into two branches, the making of detached sprigs, either point or pillow, for application upon the -net ground, and the modern _point à l'aiguille gazée_, also called point de +net ground, and the modern _point à l'aiguille gazée_, also called point de Venise, a needlework lace in which the flowers are made simultaneously with the ground, by means of the same thread, as in the old Brussels. It is made in small pieces, the joining concealed by small sprigs or leaves, after the @@ -4229,11 +4201,11 @@ and the specimens in the Paris Exhibition of 1867 were remarkable for the precision of the work, the variety and richness of the "jours," and the clearness of the ground. -_Brussels point à l'aiguille, point de gaze_, is the most filmy and +_Brussels point à l'aiguille, point de gaze_, is the most filmy and delicate of all point lace. Its forms are not accentuated by a raised -outline of button-hole stitching, as in point d'Alençon and point +outline of button-hole stitching, as in point d'Alençon and point d'Argentan, but are simply outlined by a thread. The execution is more open -and slight than in early lace, and part of the _toilé_ is made is close, +and slight than in early lace, and part of the _toilé_ is made is close, part in open stitch, to give an appearance of shading. The style of the designs is naturalistic. (Plate LII.) @@ -4244,7 +4216,7 @@ made at Bruges in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, which was much used for cravats, being exceedingly rich and soft in effect. Bobbin lace is sometimes named point Plat; the word point in this case signifies the fine quality of the lace, and has nothing to do with the needle-point. Point -Plat appliqué is the name given to Belgian bobbin-made sprigs which are +Plat appliqué is the name given to Belgian bobbin-made sprigs which are afterwards applied to machine-made net. Bobbin lace is not now made in Brussels itself. @@ -4252,7 +4224,7 @@ Brussels was a favoured lace at the court of the First Empire.[351] When Napoleon and the Empress Marie Louise made their first public entry into the Belgian capital, they {124}gave large orders for albs of the richest point, destined as a present for the Pope. The city, on its part, offered -to the Empress a collection of its finest lace, on vrai réseau, of +to the Empress a collection of its finest lace, on vrai réseau, of marvellous beauty; also a curtain of Brussels point, emblematic of the birth of the King of Rome, with Cupids supporting the drapery of the cradle. After the battle of Waterloo, Monsieur Troyaux, a manufacturer at @@ -4298,11 +4270,11 @@ It is made in one piece, on the pillow, with various fancy stitches introduced. Its distinguishing feature is the cordonnet or flat silky thread which outlines the pattern, and gives to this lace the character of embroidery (hence it is sometimes called Broderie de Malines[353]); and -secondly, the hexagonal mesh of the réseau. "This is made of two threads +secondly, the hexagonal mesh of the réseau. "This is made of two threads twisted twice on four sides, and four threads plaited three times on the two other sides. Thus the plait is shorter and the mesh consequently smaller than that of Brussels lace." Mechlin was sometimes grounded with -an ornamental réseau called _Fond de neige_, or _Oeil de perdrix_, and also +an ornamental réseau called _Fond de neige_, or _Oeil de perdrix_, and also with the six-pointed _Fond Chant_; but these varieties are not common. The earliest Mechlin has the _points d'esprit_, and is very rare. It was made at Mechlin, Antwerp, Lierre and Turnhout, but the manufacture has long been @@ -4314,8 +4286,8 @@ manufactured. It is difficult to trace the real point de Malines. Previous to 1665, as elsewhere stated, all Flanders laces, with some exceptions, were known to the French commercial world as "Malines." According to Savary, the laces of Ypres, Bruges, Dunkirk and Courtrai passed at Paris -under that name--hence we have in the inventories of the time, "Malines à -bride,"[354] as well as "Malines à rézeau."[355] +under that name--hence we have in the inventories of the time, "Malines à +bride,"[354] as well as "Malines à rézeau."[355] The statute of Charles II. having placed a bar to the introduction of Flanders lace into England, Mechlin neither appears in the advertisements @@ -4323,13 +4295,13 @@ nor inventories of the time. We find mention of this fabric in France as early as Anne of Austria, who is described in the memoirs of Marion {126}de l'Orme as wearing a veil "en -frizette de Malines."[356] Again, the Maréchal de la Motte, who died in +frizette de Malines."[356] Again, the Maréchal de la Motte, who died in 1657, has, noted in his inventory,[357] a pair of Mechlin ruffles. Regnard, who visited Flanders in 1681, writes from this city: "The common people here, as throughout all Flanders, occupy themselves in making the -white lace known as Malines, and the Béguinage, the most considerable in -the country, is supported by the work of the Béguines, in which they excel +white lace known as Malines, and the Béguinage, the most considerable in +the country, is supported by the work of the Béguines, in which they excel greatly."[358] When, in 1699, the English prohibition was removed, Mechlin lace became the @@ -4340,7 +4312,7 @@ had brought the lace with her from Holland; though, as early as 1699, we have advertised in the _London Gazette_, August 17th to 21st: "Lost from Barker's coach a deal box containing," among other articles, "a waistcoat and Holland shirt, both laced with Mecklin lace." Queen Anne purchased it -largely; at least, she paid in 1713[360] £247 6s. 9d. for eighty-three +largely; at least, she paid in 1713[360] £247 6s. 9d. for eighty-three yards, either to one Margaret Jolly or one Francis Dobson, "Millenario Regali"--the Royal Milliner, as he styles himself. George I. indulges in a "Macklin" cravat.[361] @@ -4357,8 +4329,8 @@ PLATE XXXIX. [Illustration: MECHLIN.--Four specimens of seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Arranged by age, the oldest at the top. The upper one is the end -of a lappet, the property of Mr. Arthur Blackborne. Width about 3½ in. -Widths of smaller pieces, 1¾ in., lower 2½ in. +of a lappet, the property of Mr. Arthur Blackborne. Width about 3½ in. +Widths of smaller pieces, 1¾ in., lower 2½ in. Photos by A. Dryden.] @@ -4366,7 +4338,7 @@ _To face page 126._ {127}While Captain Figgins of the 67th, a dandy of the first water, is described, like the naval puppy of Smollett in _Roderick Random_, "his hair -powdered with maréchal, a cambric shirt, his Malines lace dyed with +powdered with maréchal, a cambric shirt, his Malines lace dyed with coffee-grounds." Towards 1755 the fashion seems to have been on the decline in England. "All the town," writes Mr. Calderwood, "is full of convents; Mechlin lace is all made there; I saw a great deal, and very pretty and @@ -4384,9 +4356,9 @@ Mechlin is essentially a summer lace, not becoming in itself, but charming when worn over colour. It found great favour at the court of the Regent, as the inventories of the period attest. Much of this lace, judging from these accounts, was made in the style of the modern insertion, with an edging on -both sides, "campané," and, being light in texture, was well adapted for +both sides, "campané," and, being light in texture, was well adapted for the gathered trimmings, later termed[362] "quilles," now better known as -"plissés à la {128}vieille."[363] Mechlin can never have been used as a +"plissés à la {128}vieille."[363] Mechlin can never have been used as a "dentelle de grande toilette"; it served for coiffures de nuit, garnitures de corset, ruffles and cravats.[364] @@ -4410,7 +4382,7 @@ MECHLIN.--Three specimens of last half of eighteenth century. Victoria and Albert Museum. Width, 5 in. -Photos by A. Dryden from Mrs. Ellis' Collection. Width, 4 ½ in. Width, 4 +Photos by A. Dryden from Mrs. Ellis' Collection. Width, 4 ½ in. Width, 4 in.] _To face page 123._ @@ -4438,14 +4410,14 @@ guipure of large flowers united by "brides," was fabricated in all the towns of Brabant for especial exportation to the Spanish Indies, where the "Gothic" taste continued in favour up to a very late period. These envoys {130}were expedited first to Cadiz, and there disposed of. In 1696, we find -in a seizure made by Monsieur de la Bellière, on the high seas, "2181 -pieces de dentelles grossières à l'Espagnole assorties."[368] (Plate XLI.) +in a seizure made by Monsieur de la Bellière, on the high seas, "2181 +pieces de dentelles grossières à l'Espagnole assorties."[368] (Plate XLI.) Since the cessation of this Spanish market, Antwerp lace would have disappeared from the scene had it not been for the attachment evinced by the old people for one pattern, which has been worn on their caps from generation to generation, generally known by the name of "pot lace" (potten -kant). It is made in the Béguinages of three qualities, mostly "fond +kant). It is made in the Béguinages of three qualities, mostly "fond double." The pattern has always a vase (Fig. 64), varied according to fancy.[369] Antwerp now makes Brussels lace. @@ -4505,10 +4477,10 @@ VALENCIENNES LACE OF YPRES.] Not a hundred years since, when the laces of Valenciennes prospered, those of Belgium were designated as "fausses Valenciennes." Belgium has now the -monopoly to a commercial value of more than £800,000.[376] The other +monopoly to a commercial value of more than £800,000.[376] The other principal centres of the manufacture are Bruges, Courtrai, and Menin in West, Ghent and Alost in East, Flanders. When Peuchet wrote in the -eighteenth century, he cites "les dentelles à l'instar de Valenciennes" of +eighteenth century, he cites "les dentelles à l'instar de Valenciennes" of Courtrai as being in favour, and generally sought after both in England and France, while those of Bruges are merely alluded to as "passing for Mechlin." From this it may be inferred the tide had not then flowed so far @@ -4531,8 +4503,8 @@ esteemed is the Valenciennes. The "guipure de Flandres" made at Bruges in "point plat" is now in high repute, and has proved from its low price a formidable rival to Honiton, which it resembles, but the workmanship is coarser and inferior than in the best Honiton. It is of a brilliant white, -and composed of bobbin-made flowers united by _barettes_ or _brides à -picot_. In the _L'Industrie Dentellière Belge_ (1860), it is stated that +and composed of bobbin-made flowers united by _barettes_ or _brides à +picot_. In the _L'Industrie Dentellière Belge_ (1860), it is stated that West Flanders has now 180 fabrics and 400 lace schools. Of these, 157 are the property of religious communities, and number upwards of 30,000 apprentices.[378] @@ -4541,13 +4513,13 @@ apprentices.[378] FLANDERS (EAST). No traveller has passed through the city of Ghent for the last hundred -years without describing the Béguinage and its lace school. "The women," +years without describing the Béguinage and its lace school. "The women," writes the author of the _Grand Tour_, 1756, "number nigh 5,000, go where they please, and employ their time in weaving lace." Savary cites the "fausses Valenciennes," which he declares to equal the -real in beauty. "They are," continues he, "moins serrées, un peu moins -solides, et un peu moins chères." +real in beauty. "They are," continues he, "moins serrées, un peu moins +solides, et un peu moins chères." The best account, however, we have of the Ghent manufactures is contained in a letter addressed to Sir John Sinclair by Mr. Hey Schoulthem in 1815. @@ -4582,7 +4554,7 @@ in making the ground, which deprives it of its elasticity. Grammont makes no small pieces, but shawls, dresses, etc., principally for the American market. -The "industrie dentellière" of East Flanders is now most flourishing. In +The "industrie dentellière" of East Flanders is now most flourishing. In 1869 it boasted 200 fabrics directed by the laity, and 450 schools under the superintendence of the nuns. Even in the poor-houses (hospices) every woman capable of using a bobbin passes her day in lace-making. @@ -4600,13 +4572,13 @@ had also been made at Chimay. PLATE XLII. [Illustration: FLEMISH. GUIPURE DE FLANDRE, BOBBIN-MADE.--Seventeenth -century. In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] +century. In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] _To face page 134._ {135}The first Binche lace has the character of Flanders lace, so it has been supposed that the women who travelled from Ghent in the train of Mary -of Burgundy, the daughter of Charles le Téméraire, created the taste for +of Burgundy, the daughter of Charles le Téméraire, created the taste for lace at Binche, and that the stay of the great ladies, on their visits to the royal lady of the manor, made the fortune of the lace-makers. Afterwards there was much traffic between the lace-workers of Brussels and @@ -4620,18 +4592,18 @@ infer that the laces it produced were of some importance. In the said edict, the roads of Verviers, Gueuse, and Le Catelet, to those persons coming from Binche, are pronounced "faux passages."[381] Savary esteems the products of this little village. The same laces, he adds, are made in all -the _monastères_ of the province, that are partly maintained by the gains. +the _monastères_ of the province, that are partly maintained by the gains. The lace is good, equal to that of Brabant and Flanders. The characteristic peculiarities of Binche are, that there is either no cordonnet at all outlining the pattern, or that the cordonnet is scarcely a thicker thread -than that which makes the _toilé_.[382] The design itself is very +than that which makes the _toilé_.[382] The design itself is very indefinite, and is practically the same as the early Valenciennes laces. Varieties of the _fond de neige_ ground were used instead of the regular -_réseau_ ground. Dentelle de Binche appears to have been much in vogue in +_réseau_ ground. Dentelle de Binche appears to have been much in vogue in the last century. It is mentioned in the inventory of the Duchesse de -Modène,[383] daughter of the Regent, 1761; and in that of Mademoiselle de +Modène,[383] daughter of the Regent, 1761; and in that of Mademoiselle de Charollais, 1758, who has a "couvrepied, mantelet, garniture de robe, -jupon," etc., all of the same lace. In the _Misérables_ of Victor Hugo, the +jupon," etc., all of the same lace. In the _Misérables_ of Victor Hugo, the old grandfather routs out {136}from a cupboard "une ancienne garniture de guipure de Binche" for Cosette's wedding-dress.[384] The Binche application flowers have already been noticed. @@ -4647,31 +4619,31 @@ lace. (Plate XLIII.) We have now named the great localities for lace-making throughout the Low Countries. Some few yet remain unmentioned. -The needle-point of Liège should be mentioned among the Flanders laces. At -the Cathedral of Liège there is still to be seen a flounce of an alb +The needle-point of Liège should be mentioned among the Flanders laces. At +the Cathedral of Liège there is still to be seen a flounce of an alb unequalled for the richness and variety of its design and its perfection. -Liège in her days of ecclesiastical grandeur carried on the lace trade like -the rest.[385] We read, in 1620, of "English Jesuitesses at Liège, who seem +Liège in her days of ecclesiastical grandeur carried on the lace trade like +the rest.[385] We read, in 1620, of "English Jesuitesses at Liège, who seem to care as much for politics as for lace-making."[386] An early pattern-book, that of Jean de Glen, a transcript of Vinciolo, was published in that city in 1597. It bears the mark of his -printing-press--three acorns with the motto, "Cuique sua præmia," and is +printing-press--three acorns with the motto, "Cuique sua præmia," and is dedicated to Madame Loyse de Perez. He concludes a complimentary dedication to the lady with the lines:-- "Madame, dont l'esprit modestement subtil, - Vigoureux, se délecte en toutes choses belles, + Vigoureux, se délecte en toutes choses belles, Prenez de bonne part ces nouvelles modelles Que vous offre la main de ce maistre gentil." He states that he has travelled and brought back from Italy some patterns, without alluding to Vinciolo. At the end, in a chapter of good advice to -young ladies, after exhorting them to "salutairement passer la journée, -tant pour l'âme que pour le corps," he winds up that he is aware that other +young ladies, after exhorting them to "salutairement passer la journée, +tant pour l'âme que pour le corps," he winds up that he is aware that other exercises, such as stretching the hands and feet, "se frotter un peu les points des bras," and combing the hair, are good for the health; that to -wash the hands occasionally in cold water is both "civil et honnête," etc. +wash the hands occasionally in cold water is both "civil et honnête," etc. [Illustration: PLATE XLIII. @@ -4681,28 +4653,28 @@ BINCHE.--Width, 2-1/8 in.] BELGIAN, BOBBIN-MADE. -MARCHE.--End of eighteenth century. In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] +MARCHE.--End of eighteenth century. In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] BELGIAN, BOBBIN-MADE. PLATE XLV. [Illustration: DRAWN AND EMBROIDERED MUSLIN, resembling fine lace.--Flemish -work. End of eighteenth century. Width, 2½ in., not including the modern +work. End of eighteenth century. Width, 2½ in., not including the modern heading. Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] _To face page 136._ -{137}"Dentelles de Liège, fines et grosses de toutes sortes," are mentioned -with those of Lorraine and Du Comté (Franche-Comté) in the tariff fixed by +{137}"Dentelles de Liège, fines et grosses de toutes sortes," are mentioned +with those of Lorraine and Du Comté (Franche-Comté) in the tariff fixed by a French edict of September 18th, 1664.[387] Mrs. Calderwood, who visited -Liège in 1756, admires the point-edging to the surplices of the canons, +Liège in 1756, admires the point-edging to the surplices of the canons, which, she remarks, "have a very genteel appearance." The manufacture had -declined at Liège, in 1802, when it is classed by the French Commissioners -among the "fabriques moins considérables," and the lace-makers of the Rue -Pierreuse, who made a "garniture étroite"--the "caïeteresses"[388]--had +declined at Liège, in 1802, when it is classed by the French Commissioners +among the "fabriques moins considérables," and the lace-makers of the Rue +Pierreuse, who made a "garniture étroite"--the "caïeteresses"[388]--had died out in 1881. The same work is now carried on at Laroche.[389] The lace products of St. Trond, in the province of Limburgh, appear by the @@ -4720,7 +4692,7 @@ and also suggests that some provisions should be made to stop the abuses arising from the bad faith of the lace-makers, who often sell the materials given them to work with.[390][391] -{138}Many of the Belgian churches have lace among the _trésors d'église_. A +{138}Many of the Belgian churches have lace among the _trésors d'église_. A great number of the convents also possess beautiful lace, for girls who have been educated in them often give their bridal lace, after their marriage, to the chapel of the convent. @@ -4748,19 +4720,19 @@ the now flourishing kingdom of Belgium.[392] FRANCE TO LOUIS XIV. - "Il est une déesse inconstante, incommode, - Bizarre dans ses goûts, folle en ses ornements, - Qui parait, fuit, revient, et renaît, en tout temps: - Protée était son père, et son nom est la mode."--Voltaire. + "Il est une déesse inconstante, incommode, + Bizarre dans ses goûts, folle en ses ornements, + Qui parait, fuit, revient, et renaît, en tout temps: + Protée était son père, et son nom est la mode."--Voltaire. "To-day the French All clinquant, all in gold."--Shakespeare. To the Italian influences of the sixteenth century France owes the fashion -for points coupés and lace.[393] It was under the Valois and the Médicis +for points coupés and lace.[393] It was under the Valois and the Médicis that the luxury of embroidery, laces of gold, silver, and thread, attained -its greatest height, and point coupé was as much worn at that epoch, as +its greatest height, and point coupé was as much worn at that epoch, as were subsequently the points of Italy and Flanders. Ruffs and cuffs, according to Quicherat, first appeared in France in 1540. @@ -4770,14 +4742,14 @@ a scar, continued in favour with his sons. The Queen-mother herself wore mourning from the day of the King's death; no decoration therefore appears upon her wire-mounted ruff,[395] but the fraises of her family and the _escadron volante_ are profusely trimmed with the geometric work of the -period, and the making of laces and point coupé was the favourite +period, and the making of laces and point coupé was the favourite employment of her court. It is recorded that the girls and servants of her -household consumed much time in making squares of _réseuil_, and Catherine -de Médicis had a bed draped with these squares of _réseuil_ or _lacis_. -Catherine encouraged dress and extravagance, and sought by brilliant fêtes +household consumed much time in making squares of _réseuil_, and Catherine +de Médicis had a bed draped with these squares of _réseuil_ or _lacis_. +Catherine encouraged dress and extravagance, and sought by brilliant fêtes to turn people's minds from politics. In this she was little seconded either by her husband or gloomy son, King Charles; but Henry III. and his -"mignons frisés et fraisés" were tricked out in garments of the brightest +"mignons frisés et fraisés" were tricked out in garments of the brightest colours--toques and toquets, pearl necklaces and earrings. The ruff was the especial object of royal interest. With his own hand he used the poking-sticks and adjusted the plaits. "Gaudronneur des collets de sa @@ -4788,7 +4760,7 @@ By 1579 the ruffs of the French court had attained such an outrageous size, their heads.[398] "Both men and women wore them intolerably large, being a quarter of a yard deep and twelve lengths in a ruff," writes Stone. In London the fashion was termed the "French ruff"; in France, on the other -hand, it was the "English monster." Blaise de Viginière describes them as +hand, it was the "English monster." Blaise de Viginière describes them as "gadrooned like organ-pipes, contorted or crinkled like cabbages, and as big as the sails of a windmill." So absurd was the effect, the {141}journalist of Henry III.[399] declares "they looked like the head of @@ -4801,7 +4773,7 @@ stiffened that they cracked like paper,"[401] found little favour beyond the precincts of the Louvre. They were caricatured by the writers of the day; and when, in 1579, Henry III. appeared thus attired at the fair of St. Germain, he was met by a band of students decked out in large paper cuffs, -shouting, "À la fraise on connoit le veau"--for which impertinence the King +shouting, "À la fraise on connoit le veau"--for which impertinence the King sent them to prison.[402] Suddenly, at the Court of Henry, the fraise gave way to the rabat, or turn-down collar.[403] In vain were sumptuary edicts issued against luxury.[404] The court set a bad example; and in 1577, at @@ -4816,18 +4788,18 @@ last, Regnier, the satirist, writes:-- Better still, the King tried the effect of example: he wore a coat of grey cloth with a doublet of taffety, without either {142}trimming or lace--a piece of economy little appreciated by the public. His dress, says an -author, "sentait des misères de la Ligue." Sully, anxious to emulate the +author, "sentait des misères de la Ligue." Sully, anxious to emulate the simplicity of the King, laughed at those "qui portoient leurs moulins et leurs bois de haute futaie sur leurs dos."[408] "It is necessary," said he, "to rid ourselves of our neighbours' goods, which deluge the country." So he prohibited, under pain of corporal punishment, any more dealings with the Flemish merchants. -But edicts failed to put down point coupé; Reine Margot, Madame Gabrielle, +But edicts failed to put down point coupé; Reine Margot, Madame Gabrielle, and Bassompierre were too strong for him. The Wardrobe Accounts of Henry's first queen are filled with entries of -point coupé and "passements à l'aiguille";[409] and though Henry usually +point coupé and "passements à l'aiguille";[409] and though Henry usually wore the silk-wrought shirts of the day,[410] we find in the inventory of his wife one entered as trimmed with cut-work.[411] Wraxall declares to have seen exhibited at a booth on the Boulevart de Bondy, the shirt worn by @@ -4837,30 +4809,30 @@ knife are plainly visible."[412] PLATE XLVI. -[Illustration: RUFF, EDGED WITH LACE.--In the Musée de Cluny, Paris.] +[Illustration: RUFF, EDGED WITH LACE.--In the Musée de Cluny, Paris.] _To face page 142._ {143}In the inventory[413] made at the death of Madame Gabrielle, the fair -Duchesse de Beaufort, we find entered sleeves and towels of point couppé, +Duchesse de Beaufort, we find entered sleeves and towels of point couppé, with fine handkerchiefs, gifts of the King to be worn at court, of such an extraordinary value that Henry requires them to be straightway restored to him. In the same list appears the duchess's bed of ivory,[414] with -hangings for the room of rézeuil.[415] +hangings for the room of rézeuil.[415] The Chancellor Herault,[416] who died at the same period, was equally extravagant in his habits; while the shirts of the combatants in the duel between M. de Crequy and Don Philippe de Savoie are specially vaunted as -"toutes garnies du plus fin et du plus riche point coupé qu'on eust pu -trouver dans ce temps là, auquel le point de Gennes et de Flandres +"toutes garnies du plus fin et du plus riche point coupé qu'on eust pu +trouver dans ce temps là , auquel le point de Gennes et de Flandres n'estoient pas en usage."[417] The enormous collarette, rising behind her head like a {144}fan, of Mary de -Médicis, with its edgings of fine lace, are well known to the admirers of +Médicis, with its edgings of fine lace, are well known to the admirers of Rubens:-- - "Cinq colets de dentelle haute de demy-piè - L'un sur l'autre montez, qui ne vont qu'a moitié + "Cinq colets de dentelle haute de demy-piè + L'un sur l'autre montez, qui ne vont qu'a moitié De celuys de dessus, car elle n'est pas leste, Si le premier ne passe une paulme la teste."[418] @@ -4869,21 +4841,21 @@ magnificent by nature, while Richelieu, anxious to hasten the ruin of the nobles, artfully encouraged their prodigality. But Mary was compelled to repress this taste for dress. The courtiers importuned her to increase their pensions, no longer sufficient for the exigencies of the day. The -Queen, at her wits' end, published in 1613 a "Réglement pour les -superfluités des habits," prohibiting all lace and embroidery.[419] +Queen, at her wits' end, published in 1613 a "Réglement pour les +superfluités des habits," prohibiting all lace and embroidery.[419] France had early sent out books of patterns for cut-work and lace. That of Francisque Pelegrin was published at Paris in the reign of Francis I. Six were printed at Lyons alone. The four earlier have no date,[420] the two others bear those of 1549[421] and 1585.[422] It was to these first that Vinciolo so contemptuously alludes in his dedication, "Aux Benevolles -Lecteurs," saying, "Si les premiers ouvrages que vous avez vus out engendré -quelque fruit et utilité je m'assure que les miens en produiront +Lecteurs," saying, "Si les premiers ouvrages que vous avez vus out engendré +quelque fruit et utilité je m'assure que les miens en produiront davantage." Various editions of Vinciolo were printed at Paris from 1587 to 1623; the earlier dedicated to Queen Louise de Lorraine; a second to Catherine de Bourbon, sister of Henry IV.; the last to Anne of Austria. The _Pratique de Leguille de Milour M. Mignerak_ was published by the same -printer, 1605; and we have another work, termed _Bèle Prerie_, also printed +printer, 1605; and we have another work, termed _Bèle Prerie_, also printed at Paris, bearing date 1601.[423] The points of Italy and Flanders now first appear at court, and the Church @@ -4893,7 +4865,7 @@ prelates.[424] PLATE XLVII. [Illustration: BRUSSELS. FLOUNCE, BOBBIN-MADE.--Late seventeenth century. -Given by Madame de Maintenon to Fénélon, Archbishop of Cambrai. Now in the +Given by Madame de Maintenon to Fénélon, Archbishop of Cambrai. Now in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Height, 2 ft. 2 in.] @@ -4901,12 +4873,12 @@ Height, 2 ft. 2 in.] _To face page 146._ {145}The ruff is finally discarded and replaced by the "col rabattu," with -its deep-scalloped border of point. The "manchettes à revers" are trimmed +its deep-scalloped border of point. The "manchettes à revers" are trimmed in the same manner, and the fashion even extends to the tops of the boots. Of these lace-trimmed boots the favourite, Cinq-Mars, left three hundred pairs at his death, 1642. From his portrait, after Lenain, which hangs in the Gallery of Versailles, we give one of these boots (Fig. 66), and his -rich collerette of Point de Gênes (Fig. 67). +rich collerette of Point de Gênes (Fig. 67). [Illustration: Fig. 66. @@ -4919,8 +4891,8 @@ with point. A large rosette of lace completes the costume of the epoch {146}Gold lace shared the favour of the thread fabric on gloves,[425] garters and shoes.[426] - "De large taftas la jartière parée - Aux bouts de demy-pied de dentelle dorée."[427] + "De large taftas la jartière parée + Aux bouts de demy-pied de dentelle dorée."[427] The cuffs, collars of the ladies either falling back or rising behind their shoulders in double tier, caps, aprons descending to their feet (Fig. 69), @@ -4935,14 +4907,14 @@ the fashions of this reign. In the Prodigal Son, of Abraham Bosse, the mother, waiting his {147}return, holds out to her repentant boy a collar trimmed with the richest point. The Foolish Virgins weep in lace-trimmed handkerchiefs, and the table-cloth of the rich man, as well as his -dinner-napkins, are similarly adorned. Again, the Accouchée recovers in a +dinner-napkins, are similarly adorned. Again, the Accouchée recovers in a cap of Italian point under a coverlet of the same. At the Retour de -Baptême, point adorns the christening-dress of the child and the surplice +Baptême, point adorns the christening-dress of the child and the surplice of the priest. When, in 1615, Louis XIII. married Anne of Austria, the collerettes of the Queen-Mother were discarded--the reign of Italy was at an end--all was now -à l'éspagnole and the court of Castile. +à l'éspagnole and the court of Castile. [Illustration: Fig. 68. @@ -4959,13 +4931,13 @@ the author deplores the prohibition of cut-work and lace:-- but - "Pour vivre heureux et à la mode + "Pour vivre heureux et à la mode Il faut que chacun accommode Ses habits aux editz du roi." [Illustration: Fig. 69. -YOUNG LADY'S APRON, TIME OF HENRY III.--(After Gaignières. Bib. Nat. +YOUNG LADY'S APRON, TIME OF HENRY III.--(After Gaignières. Bib. Nat. Grav.)] Edict now follows on edict.[431] One known as the Code Michaud, entering @@ -4975,37 +4947,37 @@ period are admirable: one represents a young courtier fresh rigged in his {149}plain-bordered linen, according to the ordinance. His _valet de chambre_ is about to lock up his laced suit:-- - "C'est avec regret que mon maître + "C'est avec regret que mon maître Quitte ses beaux habillemens - Semés de riches passemens."[432] + Semés de riches passemens."[432] Another engraving of Abraham Bosse shows a lady of fashion with her lace discarded and dressed in plain linen cuffs and collar:-- - "Quoique l'âge assez de beauté - Pour asseurer sans vanité + "Quoique l'âge assez de beauté + Pour asseurer sans vanité Qu'il n'est point de femme plus belle - Il semble pourtant, à mes yeux, + Il semble pourtant, à mes yeux, Qu'avec de l'or et la dantelle Je m'ajuste encore bien mieux." Alluding to the plain-bordered collars now ordered by the prohibition of 1639, the "Satyrique de la Court" sings:-- - "Naguères l'on n'osoit hanter les damoiselles + "Naguères l'on n'osoit hanter les damoiselles Que l'on n'eust le colet bien garni de dentelles; - Maintenant on se rit et se moque de ceux là + Maintenant on se rit et se moque de ceux là Qui desirent encore paroistre avec cela. - Les fraises et colets à bord sont en usage, + Les fraises et colets à bord sont en usage, Sans faire mention de tous en dentellage." France at this time paying large sums to Italy and Flanders for lace, the wearing of it is altogether prohibited, under pain of confiscation and a fine of 6,000 livres.[433] The Queen-Mother, regardless of edicts, has over -_passements d'or_ and all sorts of forbidden articles, "pour servir à la -layette que sa majesté à envoyé en Angleterre."[434] Within scarce one year -of each other passed away Marie de Médicis, Richelieu, and Louis XIII. The -King's effigy was exposed on its "lit de parade vêtue d'une chemise de +_passements d'or_ and all sorts of forbidden articles, "pour servir à la +layette que sa majesté à envoyé en Angleterre."[434] Within scarce one year +of each other passed away Marie de Médicis, Richelieu, and Louis XIII. The +King's effigy was exposed on its "lit de parade vêtue d'une chemise de toile de Hollande avec de tres belles dantelles de point de Gennes au collet et aux manches."[435]--So say the chroniclers. @@ -5019,9 +4991,9 @@ LOUIS XIV. The courtiers of the Regency under Anne of Austria vied with the Frondeurs in extravagance. The latter, however, had the best of it. "La Fronde," -writes Joly, "devint tellement à la mode qu'il n'y avoit rien de bien fait -qu'on ne dist être de la Fronde. Les étoffes, les dentelles, etc., jusqu'au -pain,--rien n'estoit ni bon, ni bien si n'estoit à la Fronde."[436] +writes Joly, "devint tellement à la mode qu'il n'y avoit rien de bien fait +qu'on ne dist être de la Fronde. Les étoffes, les dentelles, etc., jusqu'au +pain,--rien n'estoit ni bon, ni bien si n'estoit à la Fronde."[436] Nor was the Queen Regent herself less profuse in her indulgence in lace. She is represented in her portraits with a berthe of rich point, her @@ -5034,7 +5006,7 @@ point (Fig. 71). In 1653,[437] we find Mazarin, while engaged in the siege of a city, holding a grave correspondence with his secretary Colbert concerning the purchase of some points from Flanders, Venice, and Genoa. He considers it -advisable to advance thirty or forty thousand livres "à ces achapts," +advisable to advance thirty or forty thousand livres "à ces achapts," adding, that by making the purchases in time he will derive great advantage in the price; but as he hopes the siege will soon be at an end, they may wait his arrival at Paris for his final decision.[438] @@ -5043,12 +5015,12 @@ PLATE XLVIII. [Illustration: BRUSSELS. BOBBIN-MADE.--Period Louis XIV., 1643-1715. -In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] +In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] PLATE XLIX. -[Illustration: BRUSSELS. POINT D'ANGLETERRE À RÉSEAU.--Eighteenth century. -Widths, 2 in. and 3½ in. +[Illustration: BRUSSELS. POINT D'ANGLETERRE À RÉSEAU.--Eighteenth century. +Widths, 2 in. and 3½ in. Photo by A. Dryden.] @@ -5059,27 +5031,27 @@ _To face page 150._ ANNE OF AUSTRIA.--(M. de Versailles.)] Colbert again writes, November 25th, pressing his Eminence on account of -the "quantité de mariages qui se feront l'hyver." A passage in Tallemant -des Réaux would lead one to suppose these laces were destined as patterns +the "quantité de mariages qui se feront l'hyver." A passage in Tallemant +des Réaux would lead one to suppose these laces were destined as patterns for the improvement of French manufactures. "Per mostra di farne in Francia," as the Cardinal expressed himself. Certainly in the inventory of Mazarin[439] there are no mention of Italian points, no lace coverlets to -his "Lict d'ange moire tabizée, couleur de rose chamarrée de {152}dentelles +his "Lict d'ange moire tabizée, couleur de rose chamarrée de {152}dentelles d'or et d'argent." We may almost imagine that the minister and his secretary combined were already meditating the establishment of Points de France. In this reign, fresh sumptuary ordinances are issued. That of November 27th, 1660, is the most important of all,[440] and is highly commended by -Sganarelle in the "Ecole des Maris" of Molière which appeared the following +Sganarelle in the "Ecole des Maris" of Molière which appeared the following year:-- - "Oh! trois et quatre fois soit béni cet édit, - Par qui des vêtemens le luxe est interdit; + "Oh! trois et quatre fois soit béni cet édit, + Par qui des vêtemens le luxe est interdit; Les peines des maris ne seront pas si grandes, - Et les femmes auront un frein à leurs demandes. - Oh! que je sais au roi bon gré de ses décrets; - Et que, pour le repos de ces mêmes maris, + Et les femmes auront un frein à leurs demandes. + Oh! que je sais au roi bon gré de ses décrets; + Et que, pour le repos de ces mêmes maris, Je voudrais bien qu'on fit de la coquetterie Comme de la guipure et de la broderie." @@ -5087,14 +5059,14 @@ year:-- A COURTIER OF THE REGENCY.--(After Abraham Bosse.)] -This ordinance, after prohibiting all foreign "passemens, points de Gênes, -points coupés," etc., or any French laces or passements exceeding an inch +This ordinance, after prohibiting all foreign "passemens, points de Gênes, +points coupés," etc., or any French laces or passements exceeding an inch in width, allows the use of the "collerettes and manchettes" persons already possess for the space of one year, after which period they are only to be trimmed with a lace made in the kingdom, not exceeding an {153}inch in width. The ordinance then goes on to attack the "canons," which it -states have been introduced into the kingdom, with "un excès de dépense -insupportable, par la quantité de passemens, points de Venise et Gênes," +states have been introduced into the kingdom, with "un excès de dépense +insupportable, par la quantité de passemens, points de Venise et Gênes," with which they are loaded.[441] Their use of them is now entirely prohibited, unless made of plain linen or of the same stuff as the coat, without lace or any ornament. The lace-trimmed "canons" of Louis XIV., as @@ -5102,24 +5074,24 @@ represented in the picture of his interview with Philip IV., in the Island of Pheasants, previous to his marriage, 1660 (Fig. 72), give a good idea of these extravagant appendages. These - "Canons à trois étages + "Canons à trois étages A leurs jambes faisoient d'ombrages."[442] And, what was worse, they would cost 7,000 livres a pair. "At the Court of -France," writes Savinière, "people think nothing of buying rabats, +France," writes Savinière, "people think nothing of buying rabats, manchettes, or canons to the value of 13,000 crowns."[443] These canons, with their accompanying rheingraves, which after the prohibition of Venice point were adorned with the new productions of France, suddenly disappeared. In 1682, the _Mercure_ announces, "Les canons et les -rheingraves deviennent tout à fait hors de mode." +rheingraves deviennent tout à fait hors de mode." At the marriage of the young King with the Infanta, 1660, black lace,[444] probably in compliment to the Spanish[445] {154}court, came into favour, the nobles of the King's suite wearing doublets of gold and silver brocade, -"ornés," says the _Chronique_,[446] "de dentelles noires d'un point -recherché."[447] The same writer, describing the noviciate of La Vallière +"ornés," says the _Chronique_,[446] "de dentelles noires d'un point +recherché."[447] The same writer, describing the noviciate of La Vallière at the Carmelites, writes, "Les dames portoient des robes de brocard d'or, -d'argent, ou d'azur, par dessus lesquelles elles avoient jetées d'autres +d'argent, ou d'azur, par dessus lesquelles elles avoient jetées d'autres robes et dentelles noires transparentes."[448] Under Louis XIV., the gold and silver points of Spain and Aurillac rivalled the thread fabrics of Flanders and Italy; but towards the close of the century,[449] we are @@ -5136,12 +5108,12 @@ coveted points of Italy and Flanders, so that if fortunes were lavished upon these luxuries, at all events the money should not be sent out of the kingdom to procure them. -He therefore applied to Monseigneur de Bonzy, Bishop of Béziers, then +He therefore applied to Monseigneur de Bonzy, Bishop of Béziers, then Ambassador at Venice, who replied that in Venice "all the convents and poor families make a living out of this lace-making." In another letter he writes to the minister, "Je vois que vous seriez bien aise d'establir dans le royaume la manufacture des points de Venise, ce qui se pourrait faire en -envoyant d'icy quelques filles des meilleures ouvrières qui pussent +envoyant d'icy quelques filles des meilleures ouvrières qui pussent instruire celles de France avec le temps."[452] [Illustration: Fig. 72. @@ -5156,26 +5128,26 @@ ambassador at Venice: "I have gladly received the collar of needlepoint lace worked in relief that you have sent me, and I find it very beautiful. I shall have it compared with those new laces being made by our own lace-makers, although I may tell you beforehand that as good specimens are -now made in this kingdom."[453] Alençon, an old lace-making centre, was +now made in this kingdom."[453] Alençon, an old lace-making centre, was chosen as the seat of the new manufacture.[454] Favier-Duboulay writes to Colbert that, before the introduction of the new points de France, -lace-making was to the peasants "une manne, et une vraie bénédiction du +lace-making was to the peasants "une manne, et une vraie bénédiction du ciel, qui s'est espandue sur tout ce pays." The art had spread far and wide -through the district about Alençon; children of seven years of age and aged +through the district about Alençon; children of seven years of age and aged men earned their daily bread by it, and the shepherdesses worked at their lace while herding their flocks. {156}[Illustration: Fig. 73. -CHÂTEAU DE LONRAI, DÉP. ORNE.] +CHÂTEAU DE LONRAI, DÉP. ORNE.] M. Odolent Desnos gives the following account of the invention and -establishment of point d'Alençon:--[455] +establishment of point d'Alençon:--[455] "In 1665, at the recommendation of the Sieur Ruel, he (Colbert) selected a -Madame Gilbert, a native of Alençon, already acquainted with the manner of +Madame Gilbert, a native of Alençon, already acquainted with the manner of making Venice point, and making her an advance of 50,000 crowns, -established her at his château of Lonrai (Fig. 73), near Alençon, with +established her at his château of Lonrai (Fig. 73), near Alençon, with thirty forewomen, whom he had, at great expense, caused to be brought over from Venice. In a short time Madame Gilbert arrived at Paris with the first specimens of her fabric. The king, inspired by Colbert with a desire to see @@ -5188,7 +5160,7 @@ ordered a large sum to be given to Madame Gilbert, and desired that no other lace should appear at court except the new fabric, upon which he bestowed the name of point de France.[456] Scarcely had Louis retired than the courtiers eagerly stripped the room of its contents. The approval of -the monarch was the fortune of Alençon: point de France adopted by court +the monarch was the fortune of Alençon: point de France adopted by court etiquette, the wearing of it became compulsory. All who had the privilege of the 'casaque bleue'--all who were received at Versailles or were attached to the royal household, could only appear, the ladies in trimmings @@ -5208,9 +5180,9 @@ in. Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] _To face page 156._ -{157}Unfortunately for this story, the Château de Lonrai came into the +{157}Unfortunately for this story, the Château de Lonrai came into the family of Colbert fourteen years after the establishment of the -lace-industry at Alençon,[457] and the name of Gilbert is not found in any +lace-industry at Alençon,[457] and the name of Gilbert is not found in any of the documents relating to the establishment of point de France, nor in the correspondence of Colbert.[458] @@ -5219,13 +5191,13 @@ manufacture of points de France,[459] with an exclusive privilege for ten years and a grant of 36,000 {158}francs. A company was formed,[460] its members rapidly increased, and in 1668 the capital amounted to 22,000 livres. Eight directors were appointed at salaries of 12,000 livres a year -to conduct the manufacture, and the company held its sittings in the Hôtel +to conduct the manufacture, and the company held its sittings in the Hôtel de Beaufort at Paris. The first distribution of profits took place in October, 1669, amounting to fifty per cent. upon each share. In 1670 a fresh distribution took place, and 120,000 livres were divided among the shareholders. That of 1673 was still more considerable. In 1675 the ten years' privilege ceased, the money was returned, and the rest of the -profits divided. Colbert likewise set up a fabric at the Château de Madrid, +profits divided. Colbert likewise set up a fabric at the Château de Madrid, built by Francis I., on the Bois de Boulogne. Such was the origin of point lace in France. @@ -5242,8 +5214,8 @@ to Spain."[463] {159}Boileau alludes to the success of the minister in his "Epistle to Louis XIV":-- - "Et nos voisins frustrés de ces tributs serviles - Que payait à leur art le luxe de nos villes."[464] + "Et nos voisins frustrés de ces tributs serviles + Que payait à leur art le luxe de nos villes."[464] The point de France supplanted that of Venice,[465] but its price confined its use to the rich, and when the wearing of lace became general those who @@ -5265,16 +5237,16 @@ homes.[466] LOUIS XIV.--_continued_. - "Tout change: la raison change aussi de méthode; - Écrits, habillemens, systèmes: tout est mode." - Racine fils, _Epître à Rousseau_. + "Tout change: la raison change aussi de méthode; + Écrits, habillemens, systèmes: tout est mode." + Racine fils, _Epître à Rousseau_. Point de France continued to be worn in the greatest profusion during the reign of Louis XIV. The King affected his new-born fabric much as monarchs of the present day do their tapestries and their porcelains. It decorated -the Church and her ministers. Ladies offered "tours de chaire à l'église de -la paroisse."[467] Albs, "garnies d'un grand point de France brodé +the Church and her ministers. Ladies offered "tours de chaire à l'église de +la paroisse."[467] Albs, "garnies d'un grand point de France brodé antique";[468] altar-cloths trimmed with Argentan[469] appear in the church registers.[470] In a painting at Versailles, by Rigaud, representing the presentation of the Grand Dauphin to his royal father, 1668, the infant is @@ -5291,13 +5263,13 @@ in the _Royal Magazine_ of 1763 that on the baptism of the young prince, afterwards Duke of York, the company went to the council chamber at St. James's, where a splendid bed was set up for the Queen to sit on, the counterpane of which is described as of inimitable workmanship, the lace -alone costing £3,783 sterling.[475] "What princes do themselves, they +alone costing £3,783 sterling.[475] "What princes do themselves, they engage others to do," says Quintilian, and the words of the critic were, in this case, fully verified: jupes,[476] corsets, mantles, aprons with their bibs,[477] shoes,[478] gloves,[479] even the fans were now trimmed with point de France.[480] -At the audience given by the Dauphine to the Siamese ambassadors, "à ses +At the audience given by the Dauphine to the Siamese ambassadors, "à ses relevailles," she received them in a bed "presque tout couvert d'un tres beau point de France, sur lesquels on avoit mis des riches carreaux."[481] On the occasion of their visit to Versailles, Louis, proud of his fabric, @@ -5307,11 +5279,11 @@ partly of muslin tied, with falling lace ends.[483] (Fig. 75.) [Illustration: Fig. 74. -LE GRAND BÉBÉ. (M. de Versailles.) +LE GRAND BÉBÉ. (M. de Versailles.) _To face page 162._] -{163}In 1679 the king gave a fête at Marly to the élite of his brilliant +{163}In 1679 the king gave a fête at Marly to the élite of his brilliant court. When, at sunset, the ladies retired to repair their toilettes, previous to the ball, each found in her dressing-room a robe fresh and elegant, trimmed with point of the most exquisite texture, a present from @@ -5329,17 +5301,17 @@ her portraits (Fig. 76) have not the appearance of home manufacture. LOUVOIS. 1691.--(From his statue by Girardon. M. de Versailles.)] Point lace-making became a favourite employment among ladies. We have many -engravings of this reign; one, 1691, of a "fille de qualité" thus occupied, -with the motto, "Apres {164}dîner vous travaillez au point." Another,[484] -an engraving of Le Paultre, dated 1676, is entitled "Dame en Déshabille de +engravings of this reign; one, 1691, of a "fille de qualité" thus occupied, +with the motto, "Apres {164}dîner vous travaillez au point." Another,[484] +an engraving of Le Paultre, dated 1676, is entitled "Dame en Déshabille de Chambre" (Fig. 77). -"La France est la tête du monde" (as regards fashion), says Victor Hugo, +"La France est la tête du monde" (as regards fashion), says Victor Hugo, "cyclope dont Paris est l'oeil"; and writers of all ages seem to have been of the same opinion. It was about the year 1680 that the - "Mode féconde en mille inventions, - Monstre, prodige étrange et difforme," + "Mode féconde en mille inventions, + Monstre, prodige étrange et difforme," was suddenly exemplified in France. @@ -5354,12 +5326,12 @@ tying the lace kerchief round her head, produced in one moment a coiffure so light, so artistic, that Louis XIV., enchanted, prayed her to retain it for that night at court. The lady obeyed the royal command. This mixture of lace and ribbon, now worn for the first time, caused a sensation, and the -next day all {165}the ladies of the court appeared "coiffées à la +next day all {165}the ladies of the court appeared "coiffées à la Fontange." (See Madame du Lude, Fig. 79.) [Illustration: Fig. 77. -A LADY IN MORNING DÉSHABILLE.--(From an engraving by Le Paultre. 1676.)] +A LADY IN MORNING DÉSHABILLE.--(From an engraving by Le Paultre. 1676.)] But this head-dress, with its tiers of point mounted on wires,[485] soon ceased to be artistic; it grew higher and higher. Poets and satirists @@ -5368,7 +5340,7 @@ matrons more than a thousand years ago.[486] Of the extinction of this mode {166}we have various accounts, some asserting it to have been preached down by the clergy, as were the _hennins_ in the time of Charles VI.; but the most probable story is that which relates how, in October, 1699, Louis XIV. -simply observed, "Cette coiffure lui paroissoit désagréable." The ladies +simply observed, "Cette coiffure lui paroissoit désagréable." The ladies worked all night, and next evening, at the Duchess of Burgundy's reception,[487] appeared for the first time in a low head-dress. Fashion,[488] which the author of the before-quoted _Consolation_ would @@ -5377,31 +5349,31 @@ the sacrifice; to the day of his death he persisted in saying, "J'ai eu beau crier contre les coiffures trop hautes." No one showed the slightest desire to lower them till one day there arrived "une inconnue, une guenille d'Angleterre" (Lady Sandwich, the English Ambassadress!!), "avec une petite -coiffure basse--tout d'un coup, toutes les princesses vont d'une extrémité +coiffure basse--tout d'un coup, toutes les princesses vont d'une extrémité a l'autre."[489] Be the accusation true or not, the _Mercure_ of November, -1699, announces that "La hauteur des anciennes coiffures commence á -paroître ridicule"; and St. Simon, in his _Memoirs_, satirises the fontange +1699, announces that "La hauteur des anciennes coiffures commence á +paroître ridicule"; and St. Simon, in his _Memoirs_, satirises the fontange as a "structure of brass wire, ribbons, hair, and baubles of all sorts, about two feet high, which made a woman's face look as if it were in the middle of her body." In these days lace was not confined to Versailles and the Court.[490] -"Le gentilhomme," writes Capefigue, "allait au feu en manchettes poudré à -la maréchale, les eaux se senteur sur son mouchoir en point d'Angleterre, -l'élégance n'a jamais fait tort au courage, et la politesse s'allie -noblement à la bravoure." +"Le gentilhomme," writes Capefigue, "allait au feu en manchettes poudré à +la maréchale, les eaux se senteur sur son mouchoir en point d'Angleterre, +l'élégance n'a jamais fait tort au courage, et la politesse s'allie +noblement à la bravoure." But war brings destruction to laces as well as finances, {167}and in 1690 the loyal and noble army was found in rags. Then writes Dangeau: "M. de -Castanaga, à qui M. de Maine et M. de Luxembourg avoient demandé un -passeport pour fair venir des dentelles à l'armée, a refusé le passeport, -mais il a envoyé des marchands qui ont porté pour dix mille écus de -dentelles, et après qu'on les eut achetées, les marchands s'en retournèrent +Castanaga, à qui M. de Maine et M. de Luxembourg avoient demandé un +passeport pour fair venir des dentelles à l'armée, a refusé le passeport, +mais il a envoyé des marchands qui ont porté pour dix mille écus de +dentelles, et après qu'on les eut achetées, les marchands s'en retournèrent sans vouloir prendre d'argent, disant qu'ils avoient cet ordre de M. de Castanaga." -"J'avois une Steinkerque de Malines," writes the Abbé de Choisy, who always +"J'avois une Steinkerque de Malines," writes the Abbé de Choisy, who always dressed in female attire. We hear a great deal about these Steinkirks at the end of the seventeenth century. It was a twisted lace necktie, and owed its origin to the battle of that name in 1692,[491] when the young French @@ -5411,17 +5383,17 @@ the charge, and gained the day. In honour of this event, both ladies and cavaliers wore their handkerchiefs knotted or twisted in this careless fashion. - "Je trouve qu'en été le Steinkerque est commode, - J'aime le falbala,[492] quoiqu'il soit critiqué," + "Je trouve qu'en été le Steinkerque est commode, + J'aime le falbala,[492] quoiqu'il soit critiqué," says somebody. Steinkirks became the rage, and held good for many years, worn alike in England[493] and France by the women and the men. Fig. 78 -represents the Grand Dauphin in his "longue Steinkerque à replis +represents the Grand Dauphin in his "longue Steinkerque à replis tortueux";[494] Fig. 79 the Duchesse du Lude[495] in similar costume and high Fontange, both copied from prints of the time. We find constant mention now of the fashion of wearing a lace ruffle to the -ladies' sleeves, concerning the wearing of which "à deux rangs," or "à +ladies' sleeves, concerning the wearing of which "à deux rangs," or "à trois rangs," there was much etiquette. The falbalas were not given up until after the Regency; the use of them was @@ -5451,31 +5423,31 @@ _To face page 168._] {169}[Illustration: Fig. 80. -MADAME PALATINE (ELIZ. CHARLOTTE DE BAVIÈRE), DUCHESSE D'ORLÉANS. +MADAME PALATINE (ELIZ. CHARLOTTE DE BAVIÈRE), DUCHESSE D'ORLÉANS. (By Rigaud. M. de Versailles.)] -Before finishing with point de France, we must allude to the équipage de +Before finishing with point de France, we must allude to the équipage de bain, in which this fabric formed a great item. As early as 1688, Madame de -Maintenon presents Madame de Chevreuse with an "équipage de bain de point +Maintenon presents Madame de Chevreuse with an "équipage de bain de point de France" of great magnificence. It consisted not only of a peignoir, but a broad flounce, which formed a valance round the bath itself. You can see them in old engravings of the day. Then there were the towels and the _descente_, all equally costly,[497] for the French ladies of the -seventeenth and eighteenth centuries admitted their _habitués_ not only to +seventeenth and eighteenth centuries admitted their _habitués_ not only to the _ruelle_,[498] but also to the bath-room.[499] In the latter case the bath {170}was _au lait_, _i.e._, clouded by the mixture of some essence. "Aux autres temps, autres moeurs." -The "fameuse poupée" of the reign of Louis XIV. must not be forgotten. The +The "fameuse poupée" of the reign of Louis XIV. must not be forgotten. The custom of dressing up these great dolls originated in the salons of the -Hôtel Rambouillet, where one, termed "la grande Pandore," at each change of +Hôtel Rambouillet, where one, termed "la grande Pandore," at each change of fashion was exhibited "en grand tenue"; a second, the little Pandore, in -morning _déshabille_. These dolls were sent to Vienna and Italy, charged +morning _déshabille_. These dolls were sent to Vienna and Italy, charged with the finest laces France could produce. As late as 1764 we read in the -_Espion Chinois_, "Il a débarqué à Douvres un grand nombre de poupées de -hauteur naturelle habillées à la mode de Paris, afin que les dames de -qualité puissent régler leurs goûts sur ces modèles."[500] Even when +_Espion Chinois_, "Il a débarqué à Douvres un grand nombre de poupées de +hauteur naturelle habillées à la mode de Paris, afin que les dames de +qualité puissent régler leurs goûts sur ces modèles."[500] Even when English ports were closed in war-time, a special permission was given for the entry of a large alabaster doll four feet high, the Grand Courrier de la Mode.[501] In the war of the First Empire this privilege was refused to @@ -5505,7 +5477,7 @@ LOUIS XV. Louis XIV. is now dead, to the delight of a wearied nation: we enter on the Regency and times of Louis XV.--that age of "fourchettes," manchettes, and -jabots--in which the butterfly abbés, "les porte-dentelles par excellence," +jabots--in which the butterfly abbés, "les porte-dentelles par excellence," played so conspicuous a part. The origin of the weeping ruffles, if Mercier[502] is to be credited, may @@ -5517,13 +5489,13 @@ became a necessary adjunct to the toilet of every gentleman. So indispensable were they, the Parisians are accused of adopting the custom of wearing ruffles and no shirts. -"Les Parisiens," writes Mercier, "achètent quatre ajustemens contre une +"Les Parisiens," writes Mercier, "achètent quatre ajustemens contre une chemise. Un beau Monsieur se met une chemise blanche tous les quinze jours. Il coud ses manchettes de dentelle sur une chemise sale," and powders over his point collar till it looks white.[503] This habit passed into a -proverb. The Maréchal de Richelieu, who, though versed in astronomy, could +proverb. The Maréchal de Richelieu, who, though versed in astronomy, could not spell, said of himself, "Qu'on ne lui avoit pas fourni des chemises, -mais qu'il avoit acheté des {172}manchettes."[504] This account tallies +mais qu'il avoit acheté des {172}manchettes."[504] This account tallies well with former accounts[505] and with a letter of Madame de Maintenon to the Princess des Ursins, 1710.[506] @@ -5538,11 +5510,11 @@ may be found in the embroidered wedding shirt furnished by the lady, in the North of Europe.[507] The sums expended in these articles would now appear fabulous. The Archbishop of Cambray[508] alone possessed four dozen pairs of ruffles, Malines, point, and Valenciennes. The Wardrobe Bills of the -Duke de Penthièvre of 1738 make mention of little else. An ell and a +Duke de Penthièvre of 1738 make mention of little else. An ell and a quarter of lace was required for one pair of ruffles. A yard, minus 1/16, sufficed for the jabot.[509] There were manchettes de jour, manchettes tournantes,[510] and manchettes de nuit: these last-named were mostly of -Valenciennes.[511] The {173}point d'Alençon ruffles of Buffon, which he +Valenciennes.[511] The {173}point d'Alençon ruffles of Buffon, which he always wore, even when writing, were exhibited in 1864 at Falaise, being carefully preserved in the family to whom they have descended. @@ -5551,7 +5523,7 @@ executioner, mounted the scaffold in a velvet suit, powdered, with point lace jabot and ruffles. "Les rubans, les miroirs, les dentelles sont trois choses sans lesquelles -les François ne peuvent vivre. Le luxe démesuré a confondu le maître avec +les François ne peuvent vivre. Le luxe démesuré a confondu le maître avec le valet,"[512] says an unknown writer, quoted by Dulaure.[513] The servants of the last century had on their state liveries lace equal in richness to that worn by their masters.[514] Of a Prussian gentleman, we @@ -5582,8 +5554,8 @@ d'Angleterre." In 1738 writes the Duc de Luynes,[518] "Aujourd'hui Madame de Luynes s'est fait apporter les fournitures qu'elle avoit choisies pour la Reine, et qui regardent les dames d'honneur. Elles consistent en couvrepieds[519] garnis de dentelle pour le grand lit et pour les petits, -en taies d'oreiller[520] garnies du {175}même point d'Angleterre, etc. -Cette fourniture coûte environ 30,000 livres, quoique Madame de Luynes +en taies d'oreiller[520] garnies du {175}même point d'Angleterre, etc. +Cette fourniture coûte environ 30,000 livres, quoique Madame de Luynes n'ait pas fait renouveler les beaux couvrepieds de la Reine." These garnitures were renewed every year, and Madame de Luynes inherited the old ones. @@ -5596,20 +5568,20 @@ d'Argentan are clearly to be seen.)] {176}[Illustration: Fig. 82. -MADAME ADÉLAÏDE DE FRANCE, DAUGHTER OF LOUIS XV.--(M. de Versailles.)] +MADAME ADÉLAÃDE DE FRANCE, DAUGHTER OF LOUIS XV.--(M. de Versailles.)] -Madame de Créquy, describing her visit to the Duchesse Douairière de La -Ferté, says, when that lady received her, she was lying in a state bed, +Madame de Créquy, describing her visit to the Duchesse Douairière de La +Ferté, says, when that lady received her, she was lying in a state bed, under a coverlet made of point de Venise in one piece. "I am persuaded," she adds, "that the trimming of her sheets, which were of point d'Argentan, -were worth at least 40,000 écus."[521] To such a pitch had the taste for +were worth at least 40,000 écus."[521] To such a pitch had the taste for lace-trimmed linen attained, that when, in 1739, Madame, eldest daughter of Louis XV., espoused the Prince of Spain, the bill for these articles alone -amounted to £25,000; and when Cardinal Fleury, a most economical prelate, +amounted to £25,000; and when Cardinal Fleury, a most economical prelate, saw the trousseau, he observed, "Qu'il croyait que c'etait pour marier toutes les sept Mesdames."[522] (Figs. 81, 82). Again, Swinburne writes from Paris:[523] "The trousseau of Mademoiselle de Matignon will cost -100,000 crowns (£25,000). The expense here of rigging[524] out a bride is +100,000 crowns (£25,000). The expense here of rigging[524] out a bride is equal to a handsome portion in England. Five thousand pounds' worth of lace, linen, etc., is a common thing among them." @@ -5624,22 +5596,22 @@ _To face page 176._ {177}[Illustration: Fig. 83. -MARIE THÉRÈSE ANT. RAPH., INFANTA OF SPAIN, FIRST WIFE OF LOUIS DAUPHIN, +MARIE THÉRÈSE ANT. RAPH., INFANTA OF SPAIN, FIRST WIFE OF LOUIS DAUPHIN, SON OF LOUIS XV. ---By Tocqué. Dated 1748. M. de Versailles.] +--By Tocqué. Dated 1748. M. de Versailles.] The masks worn by the ladies at this period were of black blonde lace[525] of the most exquisite fineness and design.[526] They were trimmed round the eyes, like those described by Scarron:-- "Dirai-je comme ces fantasques - Qui portent dentelle à leurs masques, + Qui portent dentelle à leurs masques, En chamarrent les trous des yeux, Croyant que le masque en est mieux." In the reign of Louis XV., point de France was rivalled {178}by the -productions of Angleterre[527] and Malines. Argentan and Alençon (Fig. 83) +productions of Angleterre[527] and Malines. Argentan and Alençon (Fig. 83) were declared by fashion to be "dentelles d'hiver:" each lace now had its appointed season.[528] "On porte le point en hiver," says the Dictionary of the Academy. @@ -5651,7 +5623,7 @@ d'or et d'argent, reprend demain le linge uni et les rubans unis aussi."[529] "Madame" thus describes the "petit deuil" of the Margrave of Anspach: "Avec -des dentelles blanches sur le noir, du beau ruban bleu, à dentelles +des dentelles blanches sur le noir, du beau ruban bleu, à dentelles blanches et noires. C'etoit une parure magnifique."[530] @@ -5676,16 +5648,16 @@ did her best to amuse herself in private. The finest Indian muslin now supplanted the heavy points of the old court. Madame du Barry, in her _Memoirs_, mentions the purchase of Indian muslin so fine {180}that the piece did not weigh fifteen ounces, although sufficient to make four -dresses. "The ladies looked," indignantly observed the Maréchale de +dresses. "The ladies looked," indignantly observed the Maréchale de Luxembourg, "in their muslin aprons and handkerchiefs like cooks and convent porters."[531] To signify her disapproval of this new-fangled -custom, the Maréchale sent her grand-daughter, the Duchesse de Lauzun, an +custom, the Maréchale sent her grand-daughter, the Duchesse de Lauzun, an apron of sailcloth trimmed with fine point and six fichus of the same material similarly decorated. Tulle and marli[532] were much worn during the latter years of the Queen's life, and entries of tulle, marli, blondes, and embroidered linens occur over and over again in Madame Eloffe's accounts with the Queen. The richer ornamental laces were not worn, and one -reads of items such as "a gauze fichu trimmed with white _prétention_." +reads of items such as "a gauze fichu trimmed with white _prétention_." On leaving Versailles for the last time (October 6th, 1789), Marie Antoinette distributed among her suite all that remained of her fans and @@ -5693,44 +5665,44 @@ laces. The arrangement of the lace lappets was still preserved by rule. "Lappets to be pinned up"--lappets to be let down on grand occasions.[533] Later -Madame de Staël, like a true _bas-bleu_--without speaking of her curtsey to +Madame de Staël, like a true _bas-bleu_--without speaking of her curtsey to Marie Antoinette, which was all wrong--on her first visit of ceremony to Madame de Polignac, in defiance of all etiquette, left her lace lappets in the carriage. The democratic spirit of the age now first creeps out in {181}the fashions. -Among the rich _parures_ of Du Barry[534] we find "barbes à la -paysanne"--everything now becomes "à coquille," "à papillon." +Among the rich _parures_ of Du Barry[534] we find "barbes à la +paysanne"--everything now becomes "à coquille," "à papillon." -Even the Queen's hairdresser, Léonard, "qui +Even the Queen's hairdresser, Léonard, "qui "Portait jusques au ciel l'audace de ses coiffures," did not venture to introduce much lace. The affected phraseology of the day is very "precious" in its absurdity. We -read of the toilette of Mademoiselle Duthé in which she appeared at the -opera. She wore a robe "soupirs étouffés," trimmed with "regrets -superflus"; a point of "candeur parfaite, garnie en plaintes indiscrètes"; -ribbons en "attentions marquées"; shoes "cheveux de la reine,"[535] +read of the toilette of Mademoiselle Duthé in which she appeared at the +opera. She wore a robe "soupirs étouffés," trimmed with "regrets +superflus"; a point of "candeur parfaite, garnie en plaintes indiscrètes"; +ribbons en "attentions marquées"; shoes "cheveux de la reine,"[535] embroidered with diamonds, "en coups perfides" and "venez-y-voir" in -emeralds. Her hair "en sentiments soutenus," with a cap of "conquête -assurée," trimmed with ribbons of "oeil abattu"; a "chat[536] sur le col," -the colour of "gueux nouvellement arrivé," and upon her shoulders a Médicis -"en bienséance," and her muff of "agitation momentanée." +emeralds. Her hair "en sentiments soutenus," with a cap of "conquête +assurée," trimmed with ribbons of "oeil abattu"; a "chat[536] sur le col," +the colour of "gueux nouvellement arrivé," and upon her shoulders a Médicis +"en bienséance," and her muff of "agitation momentanée." In the accounts of Mademoiselle Bertin, the Queen's milliner, known for her -saying, "Il n'y a rien de nouveau dans ce monde que ce qui est oublié," we +saying, "Il n'y a rien de nouveau dans ce monde que ce qui est oublié," we have little mention of lace.[537] -{182}"Blond à fond d'Alençon semé à poix, à mouches," now usurps the place +{182}"Blond à fond d'Alençon semé à poix, à mouches," now usurps the place of the old points. Even one of the "grandes dames de la vieille cour," -Madame Adélaïde de France herself, is represented in her picture by Madame +Madame Adélaïde de France herself, is represented in her picture by Madame Guiard with a spotted handkerchief, probably of blonde (Fig. 85). [Illustration: Fig. 85. -MADAME ADÉLAÏDE DE FRANCE.--After a picture by Madame Guiard, dated 1787. +MADAME ADÉLAÃDE DE FRANCE.--After a picture by Madame Guiard, dated 1787. M. de Versailles.] The Church alone protects the ancient fabrics. The lace of the Rohan @@ -5738,14 +5710,14 @@ family, almost hereditary Princes Archbishops of Strasburg, was of inestimable value. "We met," writes the Baroness de Oberkirch, "the cardinal coming out of his chapel dressed in a soutane of scarlet moire and rochet of English lace of inestimable value. When on great occasions he -officiates at Versailles, he wears an alb of old lace 'en point à +officiates at Versailles, he wears an alb of old lace 'en point à l'aiguille' of such beauty that his assistants were almost afraid to touch it. His arms and device are worked in a medallion above the large flowers. This alb is estimated at 100,000 livres. On the day of which I speak he wore the rochet of English lace, one of his least beautiful, as his -{183}secretary, the Abbé Georget, told me."[538] On his elevation to the +{183}secretary, the Abbé Georget, told me."[538] On his elevation to the see of Bourges (1859), Monseigneur de La Tour d'Auvergne celebrated mass at -Rome arrayed with all the sacerdotal ornaments of point d'Alençon of the +Rome arrayed with all the sacerdotal ornaments of point d'Alençon of the finest workmanship. This lace descended to him from his uncle, Cardinal de La Tour d'Auvergne, who had inherited it from his mother, Madame d'Aumale, so well known as the friend of Madame de Maintenon. Under the first Empire, @@ -5763,12 +5735,12 @@ estates they seldom if ever visited, were ere long outcasts in foreign countries. The French Revolution was fatal to the lace trade. For twelve years the manufacture almost ceased, and more than thirty different fabrics entirely disappeared.[539] Its merits were, however, recognised by the -Etats Généraux in 1789, who, when previous to meeting they settled the +Etats Généraux in 1789, who, when previous to meeting they settled the costume of the three estates, decreed to the _noblesse_ a lace cravat. It was not until 1801, when Napoleon wished to "faire revenir le luxe," that we again find it chronicled in the annals of the day: "How charming Caroline Murat looked in her white mantelet of point de Bruxelles et sa -robe garnie des mêmes dentelles," etc. The old laces were the work of +robe garnie des mêmes dentelles," etc. The old laces were the work of years, and transmitted as heirlooms[540] from generation to generation. {184}They were often heavy and overloaded with ornament. The ancient style was now discarded and a lighter description introduced. By an improvement @@ -5776,7 +5748,7 @@ in the point de raccroc several sections of lace were joined together so as to form one large piece; thus ten workers could now produce in a month what had formerly been the work of years. -Napoleon especially patronised the fabrics of Alençon, Brussels, and +Napoleon especially patronised the fabrics of Alençon, Brussels, and Chantilly. He endeavoured, too, without success, to raise that of Valenciennes. After the example of Louis XIV., he made the wearing of his two favourite points obligatory at the Court of the Tuileries, and it is to @@ -5788,13 +5760,13 @@ surpassed. To reproduce them now would, estimates M. Aubry, cost above a million of francs. Napoleon was a great lover of lace: he admired it as a work of art, and was proud of the proficiency of his subjects. Mademoiselle d'Avrillion relates the following anecdote:--The Princess Pauline had given -orders to the Empress Joséphine's lace-maker for a dress and various +orders to the Empress Joséphine's lace-maker for a dress and various objects to the value of 30,000 francs. When the order was completed and the lace brought home, the Princess changed her mind and refused to take them. Madame Lesoeur, in despair, appealed to the Empress. She, thinking the price not unreasonable, considering the beauty of the points, showed them to Napoleon, and told him the circumstance. "I was in the room at the -time," writes the authoress of the _Mémoires_. The Emperor examined +time," writes the authoress of the _Mémoires_. The Emperor examined minutely each carton, exclaiming at intervals, "Comme on travaille bien en France, je dois encourager un pareil commerce. Pauline a grand tort." He ended by paying the bill and distributing the laces among the ladies of the @@ -5802,27 +5774,27 @@ court.[541] Indeed, it may be said that never {185}was lace more in vogue than during the early days of the Empire. The morning costume of a French duchesse of that court is described in the -following terms:--"Elle portait un peignoir brodé en mousseline garni d'une -Angleterre très-belle, une fraise en point d'Angleterre. Sur sa tête la -duchesse avait jeté en se levant une sorte de 'baigneuse,' comme nos mères -l'auraient appelée, en point d'Angleterre, garnie de rubans de satin rose -pâle."[542] The fair sister of Napoleon, the Princess Pauline Borghese, -"s'est passionnée," as the term ran, "pour les dentelles."[543] - -That Napoleon's example was quickly followed by the _élégantes_ of the +following terms:--"Elle portait un peignoir brodé en mousseline garni d'une +Angleterre très-belle, une fraise en point d'Angleterre. Sur sa tête la +duchesse avait jeté en se levant une sorte de 'baigneuse,' comme nos mères +l'auraient appelée, en point d'Angleterre, garnie de rubans de satin rose +pâle."[542] The fair sister of Napoleon, the Princess Pauline Borghese, +"s'est passionnée," as the term ran, "pour les dentelles."[543] + +That Napoleon's example was quickly followed by the _élégantes_ of the Directory, the following account, given to the brother of the author by an elderly lady who visited Paris during that very short period[544] when the -English flocked to the Continent, of a ball at Madame Récamier's, to which +English flocked to the Continent, of a ball at Madame Récamier's, to which she had an invitation, will testify. -The First Consul was expected, and the _élite_ of Paris early thronged the -_salons_ of the charming hostess, but where was Madame Récamier? +The First Consul was expected, and the _élite_ of Paris early thronged the +_salons_ of the charming hostess, but where was Madame Récamier? "_Souffrante_," the murmur ran, retained to her bed by a sudden -indisposition. She would, however, receive her guests _couchée_. +indisposition. She would, however, receive her guests _couchée_. The company passed to the bedroom of the lady, which, as still the custom in France, opened on one of the principal _salons_. There, in a gilded bed, -lay Madame Récamier, the most beautiful woman in France. The bed-curtains +lay Madame Récamier, the most beautiful woman in France. The bed-curtains were of the finest Brussels lace, bordered with garlands of honeysuckle, and lined with satin of the palest rose. The _couvrepied_ was of the same material; from the pillow of embroidered cambric fell "des flots de @@ -5832,30 +5804,30 @@ The lady herself wore a _peignoir_ trimmed with the most exquisite English point. Never had she looked more lovely--never had she done the honours of her hotel more gracefully. And so she received Napoleon--so she received the heroes of that great empire. All admired her "fortitude," her -_dévouement_, in thus sacrificing herself to society, and on the following +_dévouement_, in thus sacrificing herself to society, and on the following day "tout Paris s'est fait inscrire chez elle." Never had such anxiety been expressed--never had woman gained such a triumph. -{186}The Duchesse d'Abrantès, who married in the year 1800, describing her +{186}The Duchesse d'Abrantès, who married in the year 1800, describing her trousseau,[545] says she had "des mouchoirs, des jupons, des canezous du matin, des peignoirs de mousseline de l'Inde, des camisoles de nuit, des bonnets de nuit, des bonnets de matin, de toutes les couleurs, de toutes -les formes, et tout cela brodé, garni de Valenciennes ou de Malines, ou de +les formes, et tout cela brodé, garni de Valenciennes ou de Malines, ou de point d'Angleterre." In the corbeille de mariage, with the cachemires were -"les voiles de point d'Angleterre, les garnitures de robes en point à -l'aiguille, et en point de Bruxelles, ainsi qu'en blonde pour l'été. Il y +"les voiles de point d'Angleterre, les garnitures de robes en point à +l'aiguille, et en point de Bruxelles, ainsi qu'en blonde pour l'été. Il y avait aussi des robes de blonde blanche et de dentelle noire," etc. When they go to the Mairie, she describes her costume: "J'avais une robe de -mousseline de l'Inde brodée au plumetis et en points à jour, comme c'était -alors la mode. Cette robe était à queue, montante et avec de longues -manches, le lé de devant entièrement brodé ainsi que le tour du corsage, le -bout des manches, qu'on appelait alors amadis. La fraise était en -magnifique point à l'aiguille, sur ma tête j'avais un bonnet en point de -Bruxelles.... Au sommet du bonnet était attachée une petite couronne de -fleurs d'oranger, d'où partait un long voile en point d'Angleterre qui -tombait à mes pieds et dont je pouvais presque m'envelopper." Madame Junot +mousseline de l'Inde brodée au plumetis et en points à jour, comme c'était +alors la mode. Cette robe était à queue, montante et avec de longues +manches, le lé de devant entièrement brodé ainsi que le tour du corsage, le +bout des manches, qu'on appelait alors amadis. La fraise était en +magnifique point à l'aiguille, sur ma tête j'avais un bonnet en point de +Bruxelles.... Au sommet du bonnet était attachée une petite couronne de +fleurs d'oranger, d'où partait un long voile en point d'Angleterre qui +tombait à mes pieds et dont je pouvais presque m'envelopper." Madame Junot winds up by saying that "Cette profusion de riches dentelles, si fines, si -déliées ne semblaient être qu'un réseau nuageux autour de mon visage, où +déliées ne semblaient être qu'un réseau nuageux autour de mon visage, où elles se jouaient dans les boucles de mes cheveux." Hamlet always used to appear on the stage in lace cravat and ruffles, and @@ -5877,13 +5849,13 @@ competition. The manufacturers were forced to lower their prices and diminish the produce. The marts of Europe were inundated with tulle; but happily a new channel for exportation was opened in the United States of North America. In time a reaction took place, and in 1834, with the -exception of Alençon, all the other fabrics were once more in full +exception of Alençon, all the other fabrics were once more in full activity.[546] But a cheaper class of lace had been introduced. In 1832-33 cotton thread first began to be substituted for flax.[547] The lace-makers readily adopted the change; they found cotton more elastic and less expensive. It gives, too, a brilliant appearance, and breaks less easily in the working. All manufacturers now use the Scotch cotton, with the -exception of Alençon, some choice pieces of Brussels, and the finer +exception of Alençon, some choice pieces of Brussels, and the finer qualities of Mechlin and Valenciennes. The difference is not to be detected by the eye; both materials wash equally well. @@ -5906,15 +5878,15 @@ million are estimated as belonging to France. Under the impulse of fashion and luxury, lace receives the stamp of the special style of each country. Italy furnished its points of Venice and Genoa. The Netherlands, its Brussels, Mechlin, and Valenciennes. Spain, its -silk blondes. England, its Honiton. France, its sumptuous point d'Alençon, +silk blondes. England, its Honiton. France, its sumptuous point d'Alençon, and its black lace of Bayeux and Chantilly. Now, each style is copied by every nation; and though France cannot compete with Belgium in the points of Brussels, or the Valenciennes of Ypres, she has no rival in her points -of Alençon and her white blondes, or her black silk laces. To begin with -Alençon, the only French lace not made on the pillow. +of Alençon and her white blondes, or her black silk laces. To begin with +Alençon, the only French lace not made on the pillow. -ALENÇON (DÉP. ORNE), NORMANDY. +ALENÇON (DÉP. ORNE), NORMANDY. "Alenchon est sous Sarthe assis, Il luic divise le pays."--_Romant de Rou._ @@ -5927,9 +5899,9 @@ PLATE LIV. [Illustration: FRENCH. Border of POINT PLAT DE FRANCE to a baptismal veil of embroidered muslin.--The orderly arrangement of the "brides" differs -from the Venetian, and foreshadows the "grande maille picotée." +from the Venetian, and foreshadows the "grande maille picotée." -In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] +In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] _To face page 188._ @@ -5937,7 +5909,7 @@ _To face page 188._ COLBERT + 1683.--M. de Versailles.] -Point d'Alençon is mentioned in the _Révolte des Passemens_, 1661, +Point d'Alençon is mentioned in the _Révolte des Passemens_, 1661, evidently as an advanced manufacture; but the monopoly of the privileged workmen--the new-comers--displeased the old workwomen, and Colbert[548] was too despotic in his orders prohibiting to make any kind of point except @@ -5950,12 +5922,12 @@ if he had not managed to escape their fury, he would assuredly have suffered from their violence. "He took refuge with me," he writes, "and I with difficulty appeased the multitude by assuring them that they would not be deprived of the liberty of working. It is a fact that for many years the -town of Alençon subsists only by means of these small works of lace: that +town of Alençon subsists only by means of these small works of lace: that the same people make and sell, and in years of scarcity they subsist only by this little industry, and that wishing to {190}take away their liberty, they were so incensed I had great difficulty in pacifying them." -The Act, it appears, had come from the Parliament of Paris, but as Alençon +The Act, it appears, had come from the Parliament of Paris, but as Alençon is in Normandy, it was necessary to have the assent of the Parliament of Rouen. @@ -5970,7 +5942,7 @@ who worked for the manufactory; and all girls must show to the authorities the patterns they intended working, "so that the King shall be satisfied, and the people gain a livelihood." -The "maîtresse dentellière," Catherine Marcq, writes to Colbert, November +The "maîtresse dentellière," Catherine Marcq, writes to Colbert, November 30th, 1665, complaining of the obstinacy of the people, who prefer the old work. "Out of 8,000 women, we have got but 700, and I can only count on 250 who at least will have learnt to perfection the Venetian point, the @@ -5999,25 +5971,25 @@ high relief (Fig. 87). VENICE POINT.--"Dentelle Volante."] A memoir drawn up in 1698 by M. de Pommereu[550] is the next mention we -find of the fabric of Alençon. "The manufacture of the points de France is +find of the fabric of Alençon. "The manufacture of the points de France is also," he says, "one of the most considerable in the country. This fabric -began at Alençon, where most of the women and girls work at it, to the +began at Alençon, where most of the women and girls work at it, to the number of more than eight to nine hundred, without counting those in the country, which are in considerable numbers. It is a commerce of about 500,000 livres per annum. This point is called 'vilain'[551] in the country; the principal sale was in Paris during the war, but the demand increases very much since the peace, in consequence of its exportation to foreign countries." The number of lace-workers given by M. Pommereu appears -small, but Alençon {192}manufacture was then on the decline. The death of +small, but Alençon {192}manufacture was then on the decline. The death of its protector, Colbert (1683), and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, which reduced the population one-third, the industrial families (qui faisaient le principal commerce) retiring to England and Scotland, the long wars of Louis XIV., and, finally, his death in 1715, all contributed to diminish its prosperity.[552] -Savary, writing in 1726, mentions the manufacture of Alençon as not being +Savary, writing in 1726, mentions the manufacture of Alençon as not being so flourishing, but attributes it to the long wars of Louis XIV. He adds, -"It still, however, maintains itself with some reputation at Alençon; the +"It still, however, maintains itself with some reputation at Alençon; the magnificence, or, if you like, the luxury of France, sufficing to keep it up even in war-time; but it flourishes principally in peace, in consequence of the large exports to foreign countries." Russia and Poland were its @@ -6031,17 +6003,17 @@ and amount to a vast sum yearly." PLATE LV. -[Illustration: FRENCH. POINT D'ALENÇON.--Eighteenth century. Period Louis +[Illustration: FRENCH. POINT D'ALENÇON.--Eighteenth century. Period Louis XV. Needle-point lappet end and border. These show in combination the -"Alençon," "réseau," and the "Argentan" hexagonal "brides." The ribands in +"Alençon," "réseau," and the "Argentan" hexagonal "brides." The ribands in the border show varieties of diaper pattern stitches similar to those in -the "modes" of heavy Venetian points. Widths: lappet 4½ in., border 3½ in. +the "modes" of heavy Venetian points. Widths: lappet 4½ in., border 3½ in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] _To face page 192._ -{193}Point d'Alençon is made entirely by hand, with a fine needle, upon a +{193}Point d'Alençon is made entirely by hand, with a fine needle, upon a parchment pattern, in small pieces, afterwards united by invisible seams. There are twelve processes, including the design, each of which is executed by a special workwoman. These can again be subdivided, until the total @@ -6056,17 +6028,17 @@ folded double. The outline of the pattern is then formed by two flat threads, which are guided along the edge by the thumb of the left hand, and fixed by minute stitches passed, with another thread and needle, through the holes of the parchment. When the outline is finished, the work is given -over to the "réseleuse" to make the ground, which is of two kinds, bride -and réseau. The delicate réseau is worked backwards and forwards from the +over to the "réseleuse" to make the ground, which is of two kinds, bride +and réseau. The delicate réseau is worked backwards and forwards from the footing to the picot--of the bride, more hereafter. Besides the hexagonal bride ground, and the ground of meshes, there was another variety of -grounding used in Alençon lace. "This ground consists of +grounding used in Alençon lace. "This ground consists of buttonhole-stitched skeleton hexagons, within each of which was worked a small solid hexagon connected with the surrounding figure by means of six little tyes or brides." Lace with this particular ground has been called -Argentella.[555] In making the flowers of Alençon point, the worker +Argentella.[555] In making the flowers of Alençon point, the worker supplies herself with a long needle and a fine thread; with these she works -the "point noué" (buttonhole stitch) from left to right, and when arrived +the "point noué" (buttonhole stitch) from left to right, and when arrived at the end of the flower, the thread is thrown back from the point of departure, and she works again from left to right over the thread. This gives a closeness and evenness to the work unequalled in any other point. @@ -6080,13 +6052,13 @@ ruffles would be divided into ten pieces; but when the order must be executed quickly, the subdivisions are even greater. The stitch by which these sections are worked is termed "assemblage," and differs from the "point de raccroc," where the segments are united by a fresh row of -stitches. At Alençon they are joined by a seam, following as much as +stitches. At Alençon they are joined by a seam, following as much as possible the outlines of the pattern. When finished, a steel instrument, called a picot, is passed into each flower, to polish it and remove any inequalities in its surface. The more primitive lobster-claw or a wolf's tooth was formerly used for the same purpose. -Point d'Alençon is of a solidity which defies time and washing, and has +Point d'Alençon is of a solidity which defies time and washing, and has been justly called the Queen of Lace. It is the only lace in which horsehair is introduced along the edge to give firmness and consistency to the cordonnet, rendered perhaps necessary to make the point stand up when @@ -6096,75 +6068,75 @@ flower from the ground. It is related of a collar made at Venice for Louis XIII. that the lace-workers, being unsuccessful in finding sufficiently fine horsehair, employed some of their own hair instead, in order to secure that marvellous delicacy of work which they aimed at producing. The -specimen, says Lefébure, cost 250 golden écus (about sixty pounds). In +specimen, says Lefébure, cost 250 golden écus (about sixty pounds). In 1761, a writer, describing the point de France, says that it does not arrive at the taste and delicacy of Brussels, its chief defect consisting in the thickness of the cordonnet, which thickens when put into water. The horsehair edge also draws up the ground, and makes the lace rigid and heavy. He likewise finds fault with the "modes" or fancy stitches of the -Alençon, and states that much point is sent from there to Brussels to have +Alençon, and states that much point is sent from there to Brussels to have the modes added, thereby giving it a borrowed beauty; but connoisseurs, he adds, easily detect the difference.[556] [Illustration: Fig. 88. -ARGENTELLA, OR POINT D'ALENÇON À RÉSEAU ROSACÉ.--Period Louis XV. +ARGENTELLA, OR POINT D'ALENÇON À RÉSEAU ROSACÉ.--Period Louis XV. _To face page 194._] -{195}When the points of Alençon and Argentan dropped their general +{195}When the points of Alençon and Argentan dropped their general designations of "points de France"[557] it is difficult to say. An eminent writer states the name was continued till the Revolution, but this is a mistake. The last inventory in which we have found mention of point de France is one of 1723,[558] while point d'Argentan is noted in 1738,[559] -and point d'Alençon in 1741, where it is specified to be "à réseau."[560] +and point d'Alençon in 1741, where it is specified to be "à réseau."[560] -In the accounts of Madame du Barry, no point d'Alençon is mentioned--always -point à l'aiguille--and "needle point" is the name by which point d'Alençon +In the accounts of Madame du Barry, no point d'Alençon is mentioned--always +point à l'aiguille--and "needle point" is the name by which point d'Alençon was alone known in England during the last century. The purchases of needle point of Madame du Barry were most extensive. Sleeves (engageantes) and lappets for 8,400 livres; court ruffles at 1,100; a mantelet at 2,400; a -veste at 6,500; a grande coëffe, 1,400; a garniture, 6,010, etc.[561] +veste at 6,500; a grande coëffe, 1,400; a garniture, 6,010, etc.[561] In the description of the Department of the Orne drawn up in 1801, it is stated, "Fifteen years back there were from 7,000 to 8,000 lace-workers at -Alençon and its environs: the fabric of Argentan, whose productions are +Alençon and its environs: the fabric of Argentan, whose productions are finer and more costly, had about 2,000." Almost all these lace-makers, some -of whom made réseau, others the bride ground, passed into England, Spain, +of whom made réseau, others the bride ground, passed into England, Spain, Italy, Germany, and the courts of the north, especially to Russia. These united fabrics produced to the annual value of at least 1,800,000 fr., and when they had extraordinary orders, such as "parures" for beds and other -large works, it increased to 2,000,000 fr. (£80,000). But this commerce, +large works, it increased to 2,000,000 fr. (£80,000). But this commerce, subject to the variable empire of fashion, had declined one-half even before the Revolution. Now it is almost nothing, and cannot be estimated at more than 150,000 to 200,000 fr. per annum. "It supported three {196}cities -and their territory, for that of Séez[562] bore its part. Some black laces -are still made at Séez, but they are of little importance.--P.S. These +and their territory, for that of Séez[562] bore its part. Some black laces +are still made at Séez, but they are of little importance.--P.S. These laces have obtained a little favour at the last Leipsic fair."[563] -The manufacture of Alençon was nearly extinct when the patronage of +The manufacture of Alençon was nearly extinct when the patronage of Napoleon caused it to return almost to its former prosperity. Among the orders executed for the Emperor on his marriage with the Empress Marie Louise, was a bed furniture of great richness. Tester, curtains, coverlet, pillow-cases. The principal subject represented the arms of the empire -surrounded by bees. From its elaborate construction, point d'Alençon is +surrounded by bees. From its elaborate construction, point d'Alençon is seldom met with in pieces of large size; the amount of labour therefore expended on this bed must have been marvellous. Mrs. Palliser, when at -Alençon, was so fortunate as to meet with a piece of the ground powdered +Alençon, was so fortunate as to meet with a piece of the ground powdered with bees, bought from the ancient fabric of Mercier, at Lonray, when the stock many years back was sold off and dispersed (Fig. 89). The point -d'Alençon bees are appliqué upon a pillow ground, "vrai réseau," executed -probably at Brussels. Part of the "équipage" of the King of Rome excited +d'Alençon bees are appliqué upon a pillow ground, "vrai réseau," executed +probably at Brussels. Part of the "équipage" of the King of Rome excited the universal admiration of all beholders at the Paris Exhibition of 1855. -Alençon again fell with the empire. No new workers were trained, the old +Alençon again fell with the empire. No new workers were trained, the old ones died off, and as it requires so many hands to execute even the most simple lace, the manufacture again nearly died out. In vain the Duchesse -d'Angoulême endeavoured to revive the fabric, and gave large orders +d'Angoulême endeavoured to revive the fabric, and gave large orders herself; but point lace had been replaced by blonde, and the consumption was so small, it was resumed on a very confined scale. So low had it fallen in 1830, that there were only between 200 and 300 lace-workers, whose -products did not exceed the value of 1,200 francs (£48). Again, in 1836, +products did not exceed the value of 1,200 francs (£48). Again, in 1836, Baron Mercier, thinking by producing it a lower price to procure a more favourable sale, set up a lace school, and caused the girls to work the patterns on bobbin net, as bearing some resemblance to the old "point de @@ -6179,9 +6151,9 @@ hereditary set of workers, trained from their earliest infancy to the one special work they were to follow for life. Now new workers had to be procured from other lace districts, already taught the ground peculiar to their fabrics. The consequence was, their fingers never could acquire the -art of making the pure Alençon réseau. They made a good ground, certainly, -but it was mixed with their own early traditions: as the Alençon workers -say, "Elles bâtardisent les fonds." +art of making the pure Alençon réseau. They made a good ground, certainly, +but it was mixed with their own early traditions: as the Alençon workers +say, "Elles bâtardisent les fonds." [Illustration: Fig. 89. @@ -6190,44 +6162,44 @@ BED MADE FOR NAPOLEON I.] In the Exhibition of 1851 were many fine specimens of {198}the revived manufacture. One flounce, which was valued at 22,000 francs, and had taken thirty-six women eighteen months to complete, afterwards appeared in the -"corbeille de mariage" of the Empress Eugénie. +"corbeille de mariage" of the Empress Eugénie. In 1856 most magnificent orders were given for the imperial layette, a -description of which is duly chronicled.[564] The young Prince was "voué au +description of which is duly chronicled.[564] The young Prince was "voué au blanc"; white, therefore, was the prevailing colour in the layette. The -curtains of the Imperial infant's cradle were of Mechlin, with Alençon +curtains of the Imperial infant's cradle were of Mechlin, with Alençon coverlet lined with satin. The christening robe, mantle, and head-dress -were all of Alençon; and the three _corbeilles_, bearing the imperial arms +were all of Alençon; and the three _corbeilles_, bearing the imperial arms and cipher, were also covered with the same point. Twelve dozen embroidered frocks, each in itself a work of art, were all profusely trimmed with -Alençon, as were also the aprons of the Imperial nurses. +Alençon, as were also the aprons of the Imperial nurses. -A costly work of Alençon point appeared in the Exhibition of 1855--a dress, -purchased by the Emperor for 70,000 francs (£2,800), and presented by him +A costly work of Alençon point appeared in the Exhibition of 1855--a dress, +purchased by the Emperor for 70,000 francs (£2,800), and presented by him to the Empress. A few observations remain to be made respecting the dates of the patterns -of Alençon point, which, like those of other laces, will be found to +of Alençon point, which, like those of other laces, will be found to correspond with the architectural style of decoration of the period. The "corbeilles de mariage" preserved in old families and contemporary portraits are our surest guides. -In the eighteenth century the réseau ground was introduced, and soon became +In the eighteenth century the réseau ground was introduced, and soon became universally adopted. After carefully examining the engravings of the time, the collection of historical portraits at Versailles and other galleries, -we find no traces of Point d'Alençon with the réseau or network ground in -the time of Louis XIV. The laces are all of the Venetian character, à +we find no traces of Point d'Alençon with the réseau or network ground in +the time of Louis XIV. The laces are all of the Venetian character, à bride, and Colbert himself is depicted in a cravat of Italian design; while, on the other hand, the daughters of Louis XV. (Mesdames de France) -and the "Filles du Régent" all wear rich points of Alençon and +and the "Filles du Régent" all wear rich points of Alençon and Argentan.[565] The earlier patterns of the eighteenth century are flowery and undulating[566] (Fig. 91), scarcely {199}begun, never ending, into which haphazard are introduced patterns of a finer ground, much as the medallions of Boucher or Vanloo were inserted in the gilded panellings of a room. Twined around them appear a variety of _jours_, filled up with patterns of endless variety, the whole wreathed and garlanded like the -decoration of a theatre. Such was the taste of the day. "Après moi le -déluge"; and the precept of the favourite was carried out in the style of +decoration of a theatre. Such was the taste of the day. "Après moi le +déluge"; and the precept of the favourite was carried out in the style of design: an _insouciance_ and _laisser-aller_ typical of a people regardless of the morrow. @@ -6236,22 +6208,22 @@ It appears in the architecture and domestic decoration. As the cabriole legs of the chairs are replaced by the "pieds de daim," so the running patterns of the lace give place to compact and more stiff designs. The flowers are rigid and angular, of the style called _bizarre_, of almost -conventional form. With Louis XVI. began the ground _semé_ with compact +conventional form. With Louis XVI. began the ground _semé_ with compact little bouquets, all intermixed with small patterns, spots (_pois_), fleurons, rosettes, and tears (_larmes_) (Fig. 90), which towards the end -of the century entirely expel the bouquets from the ground. The semés +of the century entirely expel the bouquets from the ground. The semés continued during the Empire. This point came into the highest favour again during the Second Empire. Costly orders for trousseaux were given not only in France, but from Russia -and other countries. One amounted to 150,000 francs (£6,000)--flounce, +and other countries. One amounted to 150,000 francs (£6,000)--flounce, lappets and trimmings for the body, pocket-handkerchief, fan, parasol, all _en suite_, and, moreover, there were a certain number of metres of -_aunage_, or border lace, for the layette. The making of point d'Alençon +_aunage_, or border lace, for the layette. The making of point d'Alençon being so slow, it was impossible ever to execute it "to order" for this purpose. -Great as is the beauty of the workmanship of Alençon, it was never able to +Great as is the beauty of the workmanship of Alençon, it was never able to compete with Brussels in one respect: its designs were seldom copied from nature, while the fabric of Brabant sent forth roses and honeysuckles of a correctness worthy of a Dutch painter. @@ -6262,30 +6234,30 @@ variety to the form of the leaves. [Illustration: Fig. 90. -ALENÇON POINT, À PETITES BRIDES.--Louis XVI.] +ALENÇON POINT, À PETITES BRIDES.--Louis XVI.] [Illustration: Fig. 91. -POINT D'ALENÇON.--Louis XV. period. +POINT D'ALENÇON.--Louis XV. period. _To face page 200._] -{201}Alençon point is now successfully made at Burano near Venice, in -Brussels, at Alençon itself, and at Bayeux, where the fabric was -introduced, in 1855, by M. Auguste Lefébure, a manufacturer of that town. +{201}Alençon point is now successfully made at Burano near Venice, in +Brussels, at Alençon itself, and at Bayeux, where the fabric was +introduced, in 1855, by M. Auguste Lefébure, a manufacturer of that town. Departing from the old custom of assigning to each lace-maker a special branch of the work, the lace is here executed through all its stages by the -same worker. Perhaps the finest example of point d'Alençon exhibited in +same worker. Perhaps the finest example of point d'Alençon exhibited in 1867 was the produce of the Bayeux fabric; a dress consisting of two flounces, the pattern, flowers, and foliage of most artistic and harmonious design, relieved by the new introduction of shaded tints, giving to the -lace the relief of a picture.[567] The ground (point à l'aiguille) was +lace the relief of a picture.[567] The ground (point à l'aiguille) was worked with the greatest smoothness and regularity, one of the great technical difficulties when such small pieces have to be joined together. -The price of the dress was 85,000 francs (£3,400). It took forty women +The price of the dress was 85,000 francs (£3,400). It took forty women seven years to complete. -In the Exhibition of 1889 in Paris, Alençon itself showed the best piece of +In the Exhibition of 1889 in Paris, Alençon itself showed the best piece of lace that had taken 16,500 working days to make. @@ -6293,17 +6265,17 @@ lace that had taken 16,500 working days to make. {202}CHAPTER XIV. -ARGENTAN (DÉP. ORNE). +ARGENTAN (DÉP. ORNE). "Vous qui voulez d'Argentan faire conte, - A sa grandeur arrêter ne faut; - Petite elle est, mais en beauté surmonte - Maintes cités, car rien ne lui defaut; + A sa grandeur arrêter ne faut; + Petite elle est, mais en beauté surmonte + Maintes cités, car rien ne lui defaut; Elle est assise en lieu plaisant et haut, - De tout côtè à prairie, à campaigne, - Un fleuve aussi, où maint poisson se baigne, - Des bois épais, suffisans pour nourrir - Biches et cerfs qui sont prompts à courir; + De tout côtè à prairie, à campaigne, + Un fleuve aussi, où maint poisson se baigne, + Des bois épais, suffisans pour nourrir + Biches et cerfs qui sont prompts à courir; Plus y trouvez, tant elle est bien garnie, Plus au besoin nature secourir Bon air, bon vin, et bonne compagnie!" @@ -6311,21 +6283,21 @@ ARGENTAN (DÉP. ORNE). The name of the little town of Argentan, whose points long rivalled those -of Alençon, is familiar to English ears as connected with our Norman kings. +of Alençon, is familiar to English ears as connected with our Norman kings. Argentan is mentioned by old Robert Wace as sending its sons to the conquest of England.[568] It was here the mother of Henry II. retired in 1130; and the imperial eagle borne as the arms of the town is said to be a memorial of her long sojourn. Here the first Plantagenet held the "cour -plénière," in which the invasion of Ireland was arranged; and it was here +plénière," in which the invasion of Ireland was arranged; and it was here he uttered those rash words which prompted his adherents to leave Argentan -to assassinate Thomas à Becket.[569] +to assassinate Thomas à Becket.[569] But, apart from historic recollections, Argentan is celebrated for its point lace. A "bureau" for points de France was established at Argentan at -the same time as the bureau at Alençon (1665), and was also under the +the same time as the bureau at Alençon (1665), and was also under the direction of Madame Raffy. In a letter dated November 23rd, 1665, she -writes to Colbert: "Je suis très satisfaite de la publication à son de -trompe d'un arrêt qui ordonne aux ouvrières d'Argentan de travailler +writes to Colbert: "Je suis très satisfaite de la publication à son de +trompe d'un arrêt qui ordonne aux ouvrières d'Argentan de travailler uniquement pour la bureau de la manufacture royale." PLATE LVI. @@ -6345,48 +6317,48 @@ _Between pages 202 and 203._ {203}Point d'Argentan has been thought to be especially distinguished by its hexagonally-arranged brides; but this has also been noticed as a peculiarity of certain Venetian point laces. The bride ground, to which we -have before alluded in the notice of Alençon, was of very elaborate +have before alluded in the notice of Alençon, was of very elaborate construction, and consists of a large six-sided mesh, worked over with the buttonhole stitch. It was always printed on the parchment pattern, and the upper angle of the hexagon is pricked. After the hexagon is formed, by passing the needle and thread round the pins in a way too complicated to be worth explaining, the six sides are worked over with seven or eight buttonhole stitches in each side. The bride ground was consequently very -strong. It was much affected in France; the réseau was more preferred +strong. It was much affected in France; the réseau was more preferred abroad.[570] At the present time, it is usual to consider the point -d'Alençon as a lace with a fine réseau, the mesh of which is more square +d'Alençon as a lace with a fine réseau, the mesh of which is more square than hexagonal in form, worked by looped stitches across horizontal lines of thread, with the flower or ornament worked in fine point stitches, -closely resembling the gimp or ornament in the point de Venise à réseau, +closely resembling the gimp or ornament in the point de Venise à réseau, and outlined by a cordonnet of the finest buttonhole stitches worked over a horsehair or threads, while point d'Argentan is a lace with similar work as regards flower, ornament, and cordonnet, but with a hexagonal bride ground, each side of the hexagon being of the finest buttonhole stitchings. -Regarding the date of the introduction of the réseau, the large hexagonal +Regarding the date of the introduction of the réseau, the large hexagonal "grande bride" would appear to follow from the points de Venise, Argentan -being named before Alençon à réseau. Madame Despierres, however, is of -opinion that Argentan simplified the usual réseau by adopting the bride -tortillé (_i.e._, twisting the threads round each mesh instead of the more -arduous buttonhole stitching). Alençon would then {204}have copied back the +being named before Alençon à réseau. Madame Despierres, however, is of +opinion that Argentan simplified the usual réseau by adopting the bride +tortillé (_i.e._, twisting the threads round each mesh instead of the more +arduous buttonhole stitching). Alençon would then {204}have copied back the petites brides of small hexagonal twisted or buttonholed meshes in Louis -XVI.'s reign. To this again succeeded the looped réseau of very thick +XVI.'s reign. To this again succeeded the looped réseau of very thick thread. -With the view of showing that Alençon and Argentan were intimately +With the view of showing that Alençon and Argentan were intimately connected the one with the other in the manufacture of lace, M. Dupont says that, whereas considerable mention has been made in various records of the -establishment at Alençon of a lace factory, trace of such records with -regard to Alençon cannot be found. A family of thread and linen dealers, by +establishment at Alençon of a lace factory, trace of such records with +regard to Alençon cannot be found. A family of thread and linen dealers, by name Monthulay, are credited with the establishment of a branch manufactory or _succursale_ for lace at Argentan. -The Monthulays, then, sowed Alençon seeds at Argentan, which developed into +The Monthulays, then, sowed Alençon seeds at Argentan, which developed into the so-called Argentan lace. In almost all respects it is the same as -Alençon work.[571] The two towns, separated by some ten miles, had -communications as frequent as those which passed between Alençon and the +Alençon work.[571] The two towns, separated by some ten miles, had +communications as frequent as those which passed between Alençon and the little village of Vimoutier, eighteen miles distant, where one workman in -particular produced what is known as the true Alençon lace. If a work were -made at Argentan, it was called Argentan, if at Alençon, Alençon, though +particular produced what is known as the true Alençon lace. If a work were +made at Argentan, it was called Argentan, if at Alençon, Alençon, though both might have been produced from the same designs. In 1708, the manufacture had almost fallen to decay, when it was raised by @@ -6397,7 +6369,7 @@ applies to the council of the king for permission to re-establish the fabric of Argentan and to employ workwomen to the number of 600. He asks for exemption from lodging soldiers, begs to have the royal arms placed over his door, and stipulates that Monthulay, his draughtsman and engraver, -shall be exempted from all taxes except the capitation. The Arrêt obtained +shall be exempted from all taxes except the capitation. The Arrêt obtained by Guyard is dated July 24th, 1708. [Illustration: Fig. 92. @@ -6434,14 +6406,14 @@ off more than a hundred of their hands.[574] The number of lace-makers in the town of Argentan and its environs at this period amounted to nearly 1,200. In a list of 111 who worked for the Maison Guyard appear the {206}names of many of the good bourgeois families of the -county of Alençon, and even some of noble birth, leading one to infer that +county of Alençon, and even some of noble birth, leading one to infer that making point lace was an occupation not disdained by ladies of poor but noble houses. De La Leu, who, by virtue of an ordinance, had set up a manufacture on his own account, applies, in 1745, to have 200 workwomen at Argentan, and 200 at Carrouges, delivered over to his factor, in order that he may execute -works ordered for the King and the Dauphin for the approaching fêtes of +works ordered for the King and the Dauphin for the approaching fêtes of Christmas. This time the magistrate resists. "I have been forced to admit," he writes to the intendant, "that the workmen cannot be transferred by force. We had an example when the layette of the Dauphin was being made. @@ -6461,7 +6433,7 @@ work is doing for the king." From this period we have scarcely any notices concerning the fabric of Argentan. In 1763 the widow Louvain endeavoured to establish at Mortagne (Orne) a -manufacture of lace like that of Alençon and Argentan, and proposed to send +manufacture of lace like that of Alençon and Argentan, and proposed to send workers from these two towns to teach the art gratuitously to the girls of Mortagne. We do not know what became of her project; but at the same period the Epoux Malbiche de Boislaunay applied for permission to establish an @@ -6473,7 +6445,7 @@ institution, and evidently with success; for in 1764, a widow Roger was in treaty with the hospital to teach her two daughters the fabrication of point d'Argentan. They were to be boarded, and give six years of their time. The fine on non-performance was 80 livres. In 1781, the Sieur -Gravelle Desvallées made a fruitless application to establish a manufacture +Gravelle Desvallées made a fruitless application to establish a manufacture at Argentan; nor could even the children of the widow Wyriot obtain a renewal of the privilege granted to their mother.[576] Gravelle was ruined by the Revolution, and died in 1830. @@ -6491,20 +6463,20 @@ Taking these data, we may fix the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI. as the period when point d'Argentan was at its highest prosperity. It appears in the inventories of the personages of that time; most largely in the accounts of Madame du Barry (from 1769 to 1773), who patronized Argentan -equally with point d'Angleterre and point à l'aiguille. In 1772, she pays +equally with point d'Angleterre and point à l'aiguille. In 1772, she pays 5,740 francs for a complete garniture. Lappets, flounces, engageantes, collerettes, aunages, fichus, are all supplied to her of this costly fabric.[577] -One spécialité in the Argentan point is the "bride picotée," a remnant, +One spécialité in the Argentan point is the "bride picotée," a remnant, perhaps, of the early Venetian teaching. It consists of the six-sided button-hole bride, fringed with a little row of three or four picots or -pearls round each side. It was also called "bride épinglée," because pins +pearls round each side. It was also called "bride épinglée," because pins were pricked in the parchment pattern, to form these picots or boucles -(loops) on; hence it was sometimes styled "bride bouclée."[578] {208}The -"écaille de poisson" réseau was also much used at Alençon and Argentan. +(loops) on; hence it was sometimes styled "bride bouclée."[578] {208}The +"écaille de poisson" réseau was also much used at Alençon and Argentan. -The manner of making "bride picotée" is entirely lost. Attempts were made +The manner of making "bride picotée" is entirely lost. Attempts were made to recover the art some years since (1869), and an old workwoman was found who had made it in her girlhood, but she proved incapable of bringing the stitch back to her memory, and the project was given up.[579] @@ -6512,15 +6484,15 @@ stitch back to her memory, and the project was given up.[579] Point d'Argentan disappeared, and was re-established in 1708; but though a few specimens were produced at the Exhibition of Industry in 1808, the industry died out in 1810.[580] It was again revived with some success by -M. M. Lefébure in 1874. In January 1874, with the assistance of the mayor, -he made a search in the greniers of the Hôtel Dieu, and discovered three +M. M. Lefébure in 1874. In January 1874, with the assistance of the mayor, +he made a search in the greniers of the Hôtel Dieu, and discovered three specimens of point d'Argentan in progress on the parchment patterns. One was of bold pattern with the "grande bride" ground, evidently a man's ruffle; the other had the barette or bride ground of point de France; the -third picotée, showing that the three descriptions of lace were made +third picotée, showing that the three descriptions of lace were made contemporaneously at Argentan. -The author of a little pamphlet on Argentan, M. Eugène[581] de Lonlay, +The author of a little pamphlet on Argentan, M. Eugène[581] de Lonlay, remembers having seen in his youth in the Holy week, in the churches of St. Martin and St. Germain, the statues of the apostles covered from head to foot with this priceless point. @@ -6533,7 +6505,7 @@ PLATE LVII. [Illustration: FRENCH. POINT D'ARGENTAN.--Eighteenth century. Period Louis XV. Needle-point borders. Both these have the hexagonal ground of the genre "Argentan." The upper one is chiefly filled in with the "oeil de -perdrix" or "réseau rosacé." Width, 3-3/8 in. The lower one has been +perdrix" or "réseau rosacé." Width, 3-3/8 in. The lower one has been pieced together. Width, 7 in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] @@ -6545,10 +6517,10 @@ _To face page 208._ {209}CHAPTER XV. -ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (DÉP. SEINE). +ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (DÉP. SEINE). "Quelle heure est-il? - Passé midi. + Passé midi. Qui vous l'a dit? Une petite souris. Que fait-elle? @@ -6561,13 +6533,13 @@ Early in the seventeenth century, lace was extensively made in the environs of Paris, at Louvres, Gisors, Villiers-le-Bel, Montmorency, and other localities. Of this we have confirmation in a work[582] published 1634, in which, after commenting upon the sums of money spent in Flanders for -"ouvrages et passemens,[583] tant de point couppé que d'autres," which the +"ouvrages et passemens,[583] tant de point couppé que d'autres," which the king had put a stop to by the sumptuary law of 1633, the author says:--"Pour empescher icelle despence, il y a toute l'Isle de France et autres lieux qui sont remplis de plus de dix mille familles dans lesquels -les enfans de l'un et l'autre sexe, dès l'âge de dix ans ne sont instruits -qu'à la manufacture desdits ouvrages, dont il s'en trouve d'aussi beaux et -bien faits que ceux des étrangers; les Espagnols, qui le sçavent, ne s'en +les enfans de l'un et l'autre sexe, dès l'âge de dix ans ne sont instruits +qu'à la manufacture desdits ouvrages, dont il s'en trouve d'aussi beaux et +bien faits que ceux des étrangers; les Espagnols, qui le sçavent, ne s'en fournissent ailleurs." Who first founded the lace-making of the Isle de France it is difficult to @@ -6575,12 +6547,12 @@ say; a great part of it was in the hands of the Huguenots, leading us to suppose it formed one of the numerous "industries" introduced or encouraged by {210}Henry IV. and Sully. Point de Paris, mignonette, bisette, and other narrow cheap laces were made, and common guipures were also fabricated at -St. Denis, Écouen, and Groslay. From 1665 to the French Revolution, the +St. Denis, Écouen, and Groslay. From 1665 to the French Revolution, the exigencies of fashion requiring a superior class of lace, the workwomen arrived gradually at making point of remarkable fineness and superior execution. The lappet (Fig. 94) is a good example of the delicacy of the fine point de Paris. The ground resembles the fond chant, the six-pointed -star meshed réseau. +star meshed réseau. [Illustration: Fig. 94. @@ -6589,7 +6561,7 @@ POINT DE PARIS.--Reduced.] [Illustration: Fig. 95. POINT DE FRANCE.--Bobbin lace. Seventeenth century. With portraits of Louis -XIV. and Marie Thérèse. +XIV. and Marie Thérèse. Mrs. Palliser gives this illustration the above designation in her last edition; in her former ones, that of Flemish lace. The lace has lately come @@ -6598,7 +6570,7 @@ made for the French Queen. _To face page 210._] -{211}Savary, who wrote in 1726, mentions how, in the Château de Madrid, +{211}Savary, who wrote in 1726, mentions how, in the Château de Madrid, there had long existed a manufacture of points de France.[584] A second fabric was established by the Comte de Marsan,[585] in Paris, towards the end of the same century. Having brought over from Brussels his nurse, named @@ -6606,13 +6578,13 @@ Dumont, with her four daughters, she asked him, as a reward for the care she had bestowed upon him in his infancy, to obtain for her the privilege of setting up in Paris a manufactory of point de France. Colbert granted the request: Dumont was established in the Faubourg St. Antoine--classic -land of embroidery from early times--cited in the "Révolte des Passemens," -"Telle Broderie qui n'avoit jamais esté plus loin que du Faubourg S. +land of embroidery from early times--cited in the "Révolte des Passemens," +"Telle Broderie qui n'avoit jamais esté plus loin que du Faubourg S. Antoine au Louvre." A "cent Suisse" of the king's was appointed as guard before the door of her house. In a short time Dumont had collected more than 200 girls, among whom were several of good birth, and made beautiful lace called point de France. Her fabric was next transferred to Rue Saint -Sauveur, and subsequently to the Hôtel Saint-Chaumont, near the Porte St. +Sauveur, and subsequently to the Hôtel Saint-Chaumont, near the Porte St. Denis. Dumont afterwards went to Portugal, leaving her fabric under the direction of Mademoiselle de Marsan. But, adds the historian, as fashion and taste often change in France, people became tired of this point. It @@ -6626,8 +6598,8 @@ In the time of Louis XIV. the commerce of lace was distributed in different localities of Paris, as we learn from the "Livre Commode"[587] already quoted. The gold laces, forming of themselves a special commerce, had their shops in the "rue des Bourdonnais (in which silk laces were especially -sold) and the rue Sainte-Honoré, entre la place aux Chats et les piliers -des Halles," while the rue Bétizy retained for itself the spécialité of +sold) and the rue Sainte-Honoré, entre la place aux Chats et les piliers +des Halles," while the rue Bétizy retained for itself the spécialité of selling "points et dentelles." The gold and silver laces of Paris, commonly known as points @@ -6635,7 +6607,7 @@ d'Espagne,[588] often embellished with pearls and other {212}ornaments, were for years renowned throughout all Europe; and, until the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, an object of great commerce to France. Its importance is shown by the sumptuary edicts of the seventeenth century forbidding its -use, and also by its mention in the _Révolte des Passemens_. It was made on +use, and also by its mention in the _Révolte des Passemens_. It was made on the pillow. Much was exported to Spain and the Indies. How those exiled workmen were received by the Protestant princes of Europe, and allowed to establish themselves in their dominions, to the loss of France and the @@ -6647,22 +6619,22 @@ of lace-makers are employed in applying the flowers of Binche and Mirecourt upon the bobbin-net grounds. -CHANTILLY (DÉP. OISE). +CHANTILLY (DÉP. OISE). - "Dans sa pompe élégante admirez Chantilli, - De héros en héros, d'âge en âge embelli." + "Dans sa pompe élégante admirez Chantilli, + De héros en héros, d'âge en âge embelli." --Delille. _Les Jardins._ Although there long existed lace-makers in the environs of Paris, the establishment for which Chantilly was celebrated owes its formation to Catherine de Rohan, Duchesse de Longueville, who sent for workwomen from -Dieppe and Havre to her château of Étrepagny, where she retired at the +Dieppe and Havre to her château of Étrepagny, where she retired at the beginning of the seventeenth century, and established schools. The town of Chantilly, being the centre of a district of lace-makers, has given its name to the laces of the surrounding district, the trade being distributed over more than a hundred villages, the principal of which are -Saint-Maximien, Viarmes, Méric, Luzarches, and Dammartin. The proximity to +Saint-Maximien, Viarmes, Méric, Luzarches, and Dammartin. The proximity to Paris, affording a ready sale for its productions, caused the manufacture to prosper, and the narrow laces which they first made--gueuse and point de Paris--were soon replaced by guipures, white thread, and black silk @@ -6672,7 +6644,7 @@ PLATE LVIII. [Illustration: FRENCH (OR DUTCH).--Borders of gold and silver thread and gimp lace. Eighteenth century. From the Treasury of St. Mary's Church, -Dantzig. Widths: 1-1/8, 1¾ and 4¼ in. +Dantzig. Widths: 1-1/8, 1¾ and 4¼ in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] @@ -6683,30 +6655,30 @@ grand-daughter of an old proprietor, who had in her possession one of the original pattern-books of the fabric, with autograph letters of Marie Antoinette, the Princess de Lamballe, and other ladies of the court, giving their orders and expressing their opinion on the laces produced. We find in -the inventories of the last century, "coëffure de cour de dentelle de soye +the inventories of the last century, "coëffure de cour de dentelle de soye noire," "mantelet garni de dentelles noires," a "petite duchesse et une -respectueuse," and other "coëffes," all of "dentelle de soye noire."[590] +respectueuse," and other "coëffes," all of "dentelle de soye noire."[590] White blonde appears more sparingly. The Duchesse de Duras has "une paire -de manchettes à trois rangs, deux fichus et deux paires de sabots en +de manchettes à trois rangs, deux fichus et deux paires de sabots en blonde."[591] The latter to wear, probably, with her "robe en singe." Du Barry purchases more largely.[592] See pages 181, 182, and 224. Fig. 96 is a specimen taken from the above-mentioned pattern-book; the -flowers and ground are of the same silk, the flowers worked en grillé (see -Chap. III., grillé), or open stitch, instead of the compact tissue of the +flowers and ground are of the same silk, the flowers worked en grillé (see +Chap. III., grillé), or open stitch, instead of the compact tissue of the "blondes mates," of the Spanish style. The cordonnet is a thicker silk strand, flat and untwisted. This is essentially "Chantilly lace." The fillings introduced into the flowers and other ornaments in Chantilly lace are mesh grounds of old date, which, according to the district where they -were made, are called vitré, mariage, and cinq trous. Chantilly first +were made, are called vitré, mariage, and cinq trous. Chantilly first created the black silk lace industry, and deservedly it retains her name, whether made there or in Calvados. Chantilly black lace has always been made of silk, but from its being a grenadine, not a shining silk, a common error prevails that it is of thread, whereas black thread lace has never been made {214}either at Chantilly or Bayeux. The distinguishing feature of this lace is the _fond chant_ (an abbreviation of Chantilly), the -six-pointed star réseau, or, as it is better described, a diamond crossed +six-pointed star réseau, or, as it is better described, a diamond crossed by two horizontal threads. Chantilly fell with '93. Being considered a Royal fabric, and its @@ -6729,7 +6701,7 @@ CHANTILLY.--Reduced.--From one of the Order Books, temp. Louis XVI.] About 1835 black lace again came into vogue, and the lace-makers were at once set to work at making black silk laces with double ground, and afterwards they revived the hexagonal ground of the last century, called -fond d'Alençon,[593] for the production of which they are celebrated. +fond d'Alençon,[593] for the production of which they are celebrated. The lace industry has been driven away from Chantilly by the increase in the price of labour consequent on its vicinity to the capital. The lace @@ -6751,7 +6723,7 @@ NORMANDY. --Congreve, _Way of the World_. -SEINE INFÉRIEURE. +SEINE INFÉRIEURE. Lace forms an essential part of the costume of the Normandy peasants. The wondrous "Bourgoin,"[594] with its long lappets of rich lace, descended @@ -6764,7 +6736,7 @@ of bone lace, with a sack of linsey wolsey." The manufactures of the Pays de Caux date from the beginning of the sixteenth century. It appears to have been the first centre in Normandy, as -in 1661 Havre laces occur in the _Révolte des Passemens_. Lace-making was +in 1661 Havre laces occur in the _Révolte des Passemens_. Lace-making was the principal occupation of the wives and daughters of the mariners and fishermen. In 1692, M. de Sainte-Aignan, governor of Havre, found it employed 20,000 women.[595] @@ -6780,18 +6752,18 @@ established themselves, imitating with success the laces of Mechlin; the guipures of Flanders; the fond clair, or single ground, then called point de Bruxelles; point de Paris; black thread laces, and also those guipures enriched with gold and silver, so much esteemed for church ornament. The -manufactures of Havre, Honfleur, Bolbec, Eu, Fécamp, and Dieppe were most +manufactures of Havre, Honfleur, Bolbec, Eu, Fécamp, and Dieppe were most thriving. They made double and single grounds, guipure, and a kind of thick Valenciennes, such as is still made in the little town of Honfleur and its environs. In 1692 the number of lace-makers at Havre and its environs was not less than 22,000. Corneille,[596] 1707, declares the laces of Havre to -be "très recherchées"; and in an engraving, 1688, representing a "marchande -lingère en sa boutique,"[597] among the stock in trade, together with the +be "très recherchées"; and in an engraving, 1688, representing a "marchande +lingère en sa boutique,"[597] among the stock in trade, together with the points of Spain and England, are certain "cartons" labelled "Point du Havre." It appears also in the inventory of Colbert, who considered it worthy of trimming his pillow-cases and his camisoles;[598] and Madame de -Simiane[599] had two "toilettes garnies de dentelle du Hâvre," with an -"estuy à peigne," en suite. +Simiane[599] had two "toilettes garnies de dentelle du Hâvre," with an +"estuy à peigne," en suite. Next in rank to the points du Havre came the laces of Dieppe and its environs, which, says an early writer of the eighteenth century, rivalled @@ -6850,7 +6822,7 @@ the lace from the pillow, the Dieppe point is not taken off, but rolled.[605] It is now no longer made. In 1826 a lace school was established at Dieppe, under the direction of two sisters from the Convent of La Providence at Rouen, patronized by the Duchesse de Berri, the Queen -of the French, and the Empress Eugénie. The exertions of the sisters have +of the French, and the Empress Eugénie. The exertions of the sisters have been most successful. In 1842 they received the gold medal for having, by the substitution of the Valenciennes for the old Dieppe stitch, introduced a new industry into the department. They make Valenciennes of every width, @@ -6863,22 +6835,22 @@ prices.[606] AVE MARIA.--Dieppe.] A very pretty double-grounded old Normandy lace, greatly used for caps, was -generally known under the name of "Dentelle à la Vierge" (Fig. 101). We +generally known under the name of "Dentelle à la Vierge" (Fig. 101). We find only one mention of a lace so designated, and that in the inventory made in 1785, after the death of Louis-Philippe, Duke of {221}Orleans, the -father of Egalité, where in his chapel at Villers-Cotterets is noted, "Une -aube en baptiste garnie en gros point de dentelle dite à la Vierge."[607] +father of Egalité, where in his chapel at Villers-Cotterets is noted, "Une +aube en baptiste garnie en gros point de dentelle dite à la Vierge."[607] [Illustration: Fig. 100. POINT DE DIEPPE.--Bobbin-made.] The lace of Eu, resembling Valenciennes, was much esteemed. Located on the -site of a royal château, the property of the Duc de Penthièvre, himself a +site of a royal château, the property of the Duc de Penthièvre, himself a most enthusiastic lover of fine point, as his wardrobe accounts testify, the {222}lace-makers received, no doubt, much patronage and encouragement from the seigneur of the domain. In the family picture by Vanloo, known as -the "Tasse de Chocolat," containing portraits of the Duc de Penthièvre, his +the "Tasse de Chocolat," containing portraits of the Duc de Penthièvre, his son, and the unfortunate Princesse de Lamballe, together with his daughter, soon to be Duchess of Orleans, the duke, who is holding in his hand a medal, enclosed in a case, wears a lace ruffle of Valenciennes pattern, @@ -6886,7 +6858,7 @@ probably the fabric of his own people (Fig. 102). [Illustration: Fig. 101. -DENTELLE À LA VIERGE.] +DENTELLE À LA VIERGE.] {223}Arthur Young, in 1788, states the wages of the lace-makers seldom exceed from seven or eight sous per day; some few, he adds, may earn @@ -6894,13 +6866,13 @@ fifteen. Previous to the Revolution, the lace made at Dieppe amounted to 400,000 francs annually. But Normandy experienced the shock of 1790. Dieppe had already suffered from the introduction of foreign lace when the Revolution broke out in all its fury. The points of Havre, with the fabrics -of Pont-l'Evêque (Dép. Calvados), Harfleur, Eu, and more than ten other +of Pont-l'Evêque (Dép. Calvados), Harfleur, Eu, and more than ten other neighbouring towns, entirely disappeared. Those of Dieppe and Honfleur alone trailed on a precarious existence. [Illustration: Fig. 102. -DUC DE PENTHIÈVRE.--Vanloo. M. de Versailles.] +DUC DE PENTHIÈVRE.--Vanloo. M. de Versailles.] CALVADOS. @@ -6911,7 +6883,7 @@ Bayeux. From an early date both black and white thread laces were made, of which the former was most esteemed. It was not until 1745 that the blondes made their appearance. The first silk used for the new production was of its -natural colour, "écrue," hence these laces were called "blondes."[608] +natural colour, "écrue," hence these laces were called "blondes."[608] {224}The blonde of the time of Marie Antoinette is a very light fabric with spots or outline threads of thicker silk forming a pattern. Later, in the time of the Empire, the Spanish style came into vogue. The @@ -6922,10 +6894,10 @@ commercial importance. A silk throwster, M. Duval, was in a great degree the originator of the success of the Caen blondes, having been the first to prepare those brilliant white silks which have made their reputation. The silk is procured from Bourg-Argental, in the Cevennes. The Caen workers -made the Chantilly lace, "Grillé blanc," already described,[609] and also +made the Chantilly lace, "Grillé blanc," already described,[609] and also the "blonde de Caen," in which the flower is made with a different silk -from that which forms the réseau and outlined with a thick silk strand. The -réseau is of the Lille type, fond simple. It is this kind of blonde which +from that which forms the réseau and outlined with a thick silk strand. The +réseau is of the Lille type, fond simple. It is this kind of blonde which is so successfully imitated at Calais. Lastly the "blonde mate," or Spanish, already mentioned. In no other place, @@ -6958,9 +6930,9 @@ population of Calvados. Bayeux formerly made only light thread laces--mignonette, and what Peuchet calls[612] "point de Marli." "On ne voit dans ces dentelles," he writes, -"que du réseau de diverses espèces, du fond et une canetille à gros fil, +"que du réseau de diverses espèces, du fond et une canetille à gros fil, qu'on conduit autour de ces fonds." Marli, styled in the Dictionary of -Napoléon Landais a "tissu à jour en fil et en soie fabriqué sur le métier à +Napoléon Landais a "tissu à jour en fil et en soie fabriqué sur le métier à faire de la gaze," was in fact the predecessor of tulle. It was invented about 1765,[613] and for twenty years had great success, and was much worn by Marie Antoinette. When the mesh ground with an edging of loops, which @@ -6968,7 +6940,7 @@ constituted this lace in the decadence of Louis XVI., had a pattern, it was pois, rosettes, or the spots of point d'esprit. In the _Tableau de Paris_, 1782, we read that Marli employed a great number of workpeople, "et l'on a vu des soldats valides et invalides faire le marli, le promener, l'offrir, -et le vendre eux-mêmes. Des soldats faire le marli!" It was to this Marli, +et le vendre eux-mêmes. Des soldats faire le marli!" It was to this Marli, or large pieces of white thread net, that Bayeux owed its reputation. No other fabric could produce them at so low a price. Bayeux alone made albs, shawls, and other articles of large size, of thread lace. @@ -6977,13 +6949,13 @@ shawls, and other articles of large size, of thread lace. direction of the nuns of "La Providence." The nuns were sent there at the end of the seventeenth century, to undertake the supervision of the work-room founded by the Canon Baucher, in the old church of S. George. In -1747 the Abbé Suhard de Loucelles provided additional rooms for them in a +1747 the Abbé Suhard de Loucelles provided additional rooms for them in a house in the Faubourg St. Loup, close by the church of Notre Dame de la Poterie. In a short time more than 400 young women were employed at the two sets of work-rooms, and in 1758 the aldermen of the town presented to the intendant of the province a pair of thread lace cuffs, which, according to the accounts of the municipality, cost 144 livres. It was not until 1740 -that a commercial house was established by M. Clément; from which period +that a commercial house was established by M. Clément; from which period the manufacture has rapidly increased, and is now one of the most important in France. The black laces of Caen, Bayeux, and Chantilly, are alike; the design and mode of fabrication being identical, it is almost impossible, @@ -6999,7 +6971,7 @@ finished by ten women in one. (Plate LIX.) About 1827, Madame Carpentier caused silk blonde again to be made for French consumption, the fabric having died out. Two years later she was -succeeded by M. Auguste Lefébure, by whom the making of "blondes mates" for +succeeded by M. Auguste Lefébure, by whom the making of "blondes mates" for exportation was introduced with such success, that Caen, who had applied herself wholly to this manufacture, almost gave up the competition. Mantillas (Spanish, Havanese, and Mexican), in large quantities, were @@ -7021,17 +6993,17 @@ _To face page 226._ MODERN BLACK LACE OF BAYEUX.--Much reduced.] -To the exertions of M. Lefébure is due the great improvement in the +To the exertions of M. Lefébure is due the great improvement in the teaching of the lace schools. Formerly the apprentices were consigned to the care of some aged lace-maker, probably of deficient eyesight; he, on the contrary, {228}placed them under young and skilful forewomen, and the result has been the rising up of a generation of workers who have given to Bayeux a reputation superior to all in Calvados. It is the first fabric for large pieces of extra fine quality and rich designs; and as the point -d'Alençon lace has also been introduced into the city, Bayeux excels +d'Alençon lace has also been introduced into the city, Bayeux excels equally at the pillow and the needle (Figs. 103 and 104). -Messrs. Lefébure have also most successfully reproduced the Venetian point +Messrs. Lefébure have also most successfully reproduced the Venetian point in high relief; the raised flowers are executed with great beauty and the picots rendered with great precision. The discovery of the way in which this complicated point lace was made has been the work of great patience. @@ -7043,7 +7015,7 @@ establishment. It is only by visiting the district that an adequate idea can be formed of the resources this work affords to the labouring classes, thousands of women deriving from it their sole means of subsistence.[614] -Bayeux is now the centre for high-class lace-making in France. M. Lefébure +Bayeux is now the centre for high-class lace-making in France. M. Lefébure considers that the fichus, mantillas, etc., that are made of fine white thread in the country round Bayeux have all the suppleness and softness which contribute to the charm of Mechlin lace, to which they have a close @@ -7058,7 +7030,7 @@ of it was early adopted. [Illustration: Fig. 104. -POINT COLBERT.--Venetian point in relief reproduced by M. Lefébure. +POINT COLBERT.--Venetian point in relief reproduced by M. Lefébure. _To face page 228._] @@ -7074,11 +7046,11 @@ Ligueur," one of the most notorious partizans of the League in Bretagne. He has been entrapped at Paris, and while awaiting his doom, sends his page to his wife, with these words (we spare our readers the Breton dialect):-- - "Page, mon page, petit page, va vite à Coadelan et dis à la pauvre - héritière[615] de ne plus porter des dentelles. + "Page, mon page, petit page, va vite à Coadelan et dis à la pauvre + héritière[615] de ne plus porter des dentelles. - "De ne plus porter des dentelles, parce que son pauvre époux est en - peine. Toi, rapporte-moi une chemise à mettre, et un drap pour + "De ne plus porter des dentelles, parce que son pauvre époux est en + peine. Toi, rapporte-moi une chemise à mettre, et un drap pour m'ensevelir."[616] One singular custom prevails among the ancient families in Bretagne; a @@ -7095,12 +7067,12 @@ the day of mourning. {230}CHAPTER XVII. -VALENCIENNES (DÉP. DU NORD). +VALENCIENNES (DÉP. DU NORD). - "Ils s'attachoient à considerer des tableaux de petit point de la + "Ils s'attachoient à considerer des tableaux de petit point de la manufacture de Valencienne qui representoient des fleurs, et comme ils - les trouvoient parfaitement beaux, M. de Magelotte, leur hôte, vouloit - les leur donner, mais ils ne les acceptèrent point."--1686. _Voyage des + les trouvoient parfaitement beaux, M. de Magelotte, leur hôte, vouloit + les leur donner, mais ils ne les acceptèrent point."--1686. _Voyage des Ambassadeurs de Siam._ @@ -7121,7 +7093,7 @@ alb,[619] belonging to the ladies of the Convent of the Visitation,[620] at Le Puy. The lace is 28 inches wide, consisting of three breadths, entirely of white thread, very fine, though thick. The solid pattern, which with its flowers and scrolls partakes of the character of the Renaissance, comes out -well from the clear réseau ground. +well from the clear réseau ground. [Illustration: Fig. 105. @@ -7131,7 +7103,7 @@ _To face page 230._] {231}From 1780 downwards, fashion changed. The cheaper and lighter laces of Brussels, Lille, and Arras, obtained the preference over the costly and -more substantial products of Valenciennes--les éternelles Valenciennes, as +more substantial products of Valenciennes--les éternelles Valenciennes, as they were called--while the subsequent disappearance of ruffles from the costume of the men greatly added to the evil. Valenciennes fell with the monarchy. During the war of liberty, foreign occupation decimated its @@ -7144,9 +7116,9 @@ The lace made in the city alone was termed "Vraie Valenciennes," and attained a perfection unrivalled by the productions of the villages beyond the walls. In the lace accounts of Madame du Barry we find constant mention of this term.[621] "Vraie Valenciennes" appears constantly in -contradistinction to "bâtarde"[622] and "fausse," simply leading us to +contradistinction to "bâtarde"[622] and "fausse," simply leading us to suppose that the last-mentioned appellations signify the laces fabricated -in the neighbourhood. In support of this assertion, M. Dieudonné +in the neighbourhood. In support of this assertion, M. Dieudonné writes:[623] "This beautiful manufacture is so inherent in the place, that it is an established fact, if a piece of lace were begun at Valenciennes and finished outside the walls, the part which had not been made at @@ -7163,7 +7135,7 @@ PLATE LXII. [Illustration: VALENCIENNES.--Three specimens of seventeenth and eighteenth century. Arranged by age, the oldest at the top, which was made for a royal personage, with the initials E. P.; it is now the property of Mr. Arthur -Blackborne. Widths of the middle and lower pieces 1½ and 2½ in. +Blackborne. Widths of the middle and lower pieces 1½ and 2½ in. Photos by A. Dryden.] @@ -7180,8 +7152,8 @@ of its ground, the richness of its design, and evenness of its tissue. Its mesh is square or diamond-shaped, and it has no twisted sides; all are closely plaited. The ornament is not picked out with a cordonnet, as is the case with Mechlin; but, like Mechlin, the ground went through various -modifications, including the "fond de neige," before the réseau was finally -fixed. From their solidity, "les belles et éternelles Valenciennes" became +modifications, including the "fond de neige," before the réseau was finally +fixed. From their solidity, "les belles et éternelles Valenciennes" became an heirloom in each family. A mother bequeathed them to her daughter as she would now her jewels or her furs.[625] The lace-makers worked in underground cellars, from four in the morning till eight at night, scarcely @@ -7189,7 +7161,7 @@ earning their tenpence a day. The pattern was the especial property of the manufacturer; it was at the option of the worker to pay for its use and retain her work, if not satisfied with the price she received. This lace was generally made by young girls; it did not accord with the habits of the -"mère bourgeoise" either to abandon her household duties or to preserve the +"mère bourgeoise" either to abandon her household duties or to preserve the delicacy of hand requisite for the work. It may be inferred, also, that no eyes could support for a number of years the close confinement to a cellar: many of the women are said to have become almost blind previous to @@ -7217,7 +7189,7 @@ VALENCIENNES LAPPET.--Period Louis XVI. _To face page 234._] {235}The Valenciennes of 1780 was of a quality far superior to any made in -the present century. The réseau was fine and compact, the flower resembling +the present century. The réseau was fine and compact, the flower resembling cambric in its texture; the designs still betraying the Flemish origin of the fabric--tulips, carnations, iris, or anemones--such as we see in the old Flemish flower-pieces, true to nature, executed with Dutch exactness @@ -7228,7 +7200,7 @@ few of which still appear in the northern provinces of France at church festivals and holidays. These caps are formed of three pieces, "barbes, passe, et fond." The Norman women also loved to trim the huge fabric with which they overcharge their heads with a real Valenciennes; and even in the -present day of "bon marché" a peasant woman will spend from 100 to 150 +present day of "bon marché" a peasant woman will spend from 100 to 150 francs on a cap which is to last her for life. The last important piece made within the city walls was a head-dress of @@ -7239,9 +7211,9 @@ with the patriotic wish of exhibiting the perfection of the ancient manufacture.[629] -LILLE (DÉP. DU NORD). +LILLE (DÉP. DU NORD). - "Ces points couppés, passements et dentelles, + "Ces points couppés, passements et dentelles, Las! qui venoient de l'Isle et de Bruxelles." --_Consolation des Dames._ 1620. @@ -7288,13 +7260,13 @@ though Madame Junot speaks disparagingly of the fabric,[638] the light clear ground rendered them especially adapted for summer wear. They found great favour also in England, into which country one-third of -the lace manufactured throughout the Département du Nord was smuggled in +the lace manufactured throughout the Département du Nord was smuggled in 1789.[639] The broad black Lille lace has always been specially admired, and was extensively used to trim the long silk mantles of the eighteenth century.[640] {238}In 1788 there were above 16,000 lace-makers at Lille, and it made -120,000 pieces[641] of lace, representing a value of more than £160,000. In +120,000 pieces[641] of lace, representing a value of more than £160,000. In 1851 the number of lace-makers was reduced to 1,600; it is still gradually diminishing, from the competition of the fabric of Mirecourt and the numerous other manufactures established at Lille, which offer more @@ -7305,7 +7277,7 @@ lucrative wages than can be obtained by lace-making. LILLE.] The old straight-edged is no longer made, but the rose pattern of the -Mechlin is adopted, and the style of that lace copied: the semé of little +Mechlin is adopted, and the style of that lace copied: the semé of little square dots (_points d'esprit_) on the ground--one of the characteristics of Lille lace--is still retained. In 1862 Mrs. Palliser saw at Lille a complete garniture of beautiful workmanship, ordered for a trousseau at @@ -7313,7 +7285,7 @@ Paris, but the commercial crisis and the revolutions of 1848 virtually put an end to the lace industry of Lille and Arras. -{239}ARRAS (ARTOIS) (DÉP. PAS-DE-CALAIS). +{239}ARRAS (ARTOIS) (DÉP. PAS-DE-CALAIS). "Arras of ryche arraye, Fresh as floures in Maye."--Skelton. @@ -7324,23 +7296,23 @@ excelled in all kinds of needlework. In the history of the Abbaye du Vivier,[642] we are told how the abbess, Madame Sainte, dite la Sauvage, set the sisters to work ornaments for the church:-- - "Les filles dans l'ouvroir tous les jours assemblées - N'y paroissent pas moins que l'Abbesse zelées, - Celle cÿ d'une aiguille ajuste au petit point + "Les filles dans l'ouvroir tous les jours assemblées + N'y paroissent pas moins que l'Abbesse zelées, + Celle cÿ d'une aiguille ajuste au petit point Un bel etuy d'autel que l'eglise n'a point, - Broche d'or et de soÿe un voile de Calice; + Broche d'or et de soÿe un voile de Calice; L'autre fait un tapis du point de haute lice, Dont elle fait un riche et precieux frontal; Une autre coud une aube, ou fait un corporal; Une autre une chasuble, ou chappe nompareille, - Où l'or, l'argent, la soÿe, arrangés à merveille, + Où l'or, l'argent, la soÿe, arrangés à merveille, Representant des saints vestus plus richement Que leur eclat n'auroit souffert de leur vivant; L'autre de son Carreau detachant la dentelle, En orne les surplis de quelque aube nouvelle." Again, among the first rules of the institution of the "Filles de -Sainte-Agnès," in the same city, it is ordained that the girls "aprendront +Sainte-Agnès," in the same city, it is ordained that the girls "aprendront a filer ou coudre, faire passement, tapisseries ou choses semblables."[643] The Emperor Charles V. is said, however, to have first introduced the lace @@ -7371,19 +7343,19 @@ having this triple merit at so reasonable a price (Fig. 111). The gold lace of Arras appears also to have had a reputation. We find among the coronation expenses of George I. a charge for 354 yards of Arras lace -"atrebaticæ lacinæ."[645] +"atrebaticæ lacinæ."[645] -{241}BAILLEUL (DÉP. DU NORD). +{241}BAILLEUL (DÉP. DU NORD). As already mentioned, up to 1790 the "vraie Valenciennes" was only made in the city of that name. The same lace manufactured at Lille, Bergues, -Bailleul, Avesnes, Cassel, Armentières, as well as that of Belgium, was -called "Fausses Valenciennes." "Armentières et Bailleul ne font que de la +Bailleul, Avesnes, Cassel, Armentières, as well as that of Belgium, was +called "Fausses Valenciennes." "Armentières et Bailleul ne font que de la Valencienne fausse, dans tous les prix," writes Peuchet. "On nomme," states -another author,[646] "fausses Valenciennes la dentelle de même espèce, -inférieure en qualité, fabriquée moins serrée, dont le dessin est moins -recherché et le toilé des fleurs moins marqué." Of such is the lace of +another author,[646] "fausses Valenciennes la dentelle de même espèce, +inférieure en qualité, fabriquée moins serrée, dont le dessin est moins +recherché et le toilé des fleurs moins marqué." Of such is the lace of Bailleul,[647] whose manufacture is the most ancient and most important, extending to Hazebrouck, Bergues, Cassel, and the surrounding villages.[648] @@ -7399,22 +7371,22 @@ Valenciennes made; hence it is much sought after, for exportation to America and India. The patterns are varied and in good taste; and there is every reason to expect that in due time it may attain the perfection, if not of the Valenciennes of Ypres, at least to that of Bruges, which city -alone annually sends to France lace to the value of from £120,000 to -£160,000. +alone annually sends to France lace to the value of from £120,000 to +£160,000. {242}CHAPTER XVIII. -AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY. +AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY. ---- -LE PUY (DÉP. HAUTE-LOIRE). +LE PUY (DÉP. HAUTE-LOIRE). As early as the fifteenth century the countrywomen from the mountains of -the Vélay would congregate together during the winter within the walls of +the Vélay would congregate together during the winter within the walls of the neighbouring cities, and there, forming themselves into companies, gain their subsistence by making coarse lace to ornament the albs of the priests, the rochets of the bishops, and the petticoats of ladies of @@ -7437,7 +7409,7 @@ prosperity.[651] In the chronicles of Le Puy of the sixteenth century[652] we read that the merciers of Notre-Dame {243}des Anges "qui, suivant l'usage faisaient dans notre ville le commerce des passementeries, broderies, dentelles, etc., comptaient alors quarante boutiques, et qu'ils -figurent avec enseignes et torches au premier rang dans les solennités +figurent avec enseignes et torches au premier rang dans les solennités religieuses." Judging from local documents, this manufacture has for more than two @@ -7455,7 +7427,7 @@ first, in consequence of the large number of women employed in the lace trade, there was great difficulty in obtaining domestic servants; secondly, the general custom of wearing lace among all classes caused the shades of distinction between the high and low to disappear. These ordinances, as may -be imagined, created great consternation throughout Le Puy. Father Régis, a +be imagined, created great consternation throughout Le Puy. Father Régis, a Jesuit, who was then in the province, did his best to console the sufferers thus reduced to beggary by the caprice of Parliament. "Ayez confiance en Dieu," he said; "la dentelle ne perira pas." He set out to Toulouse, and by @@ -7464,7 +7436,7 @@ satisfied with his good work. At his suggestion the Jesuits opened to the Auvergne laces a new market in Spain and the New World, which, until the year 1790, was the occasion of great prosperity to the province. The Jesuit Father, who died in December 1640, was later canonised for his good deeds; -and under his new appellation of Saint François Régis, is still held in the +and under his new appellation of Saint François Régis, is still held in the greatest veneration by the women of Auvergne--as the patron saint of the lace-makers. @@ -7490,7 +7462,7 @@ After some arguments the lace was bought by the Sieur Jerphanion, Syndic of the diocese. Prosperity, however, was not restored, for in 1755 we again hear of a grant -of 1,000 livres, payable in ten years by the States of Vélay, for the +of 1,000 livres, payable in ten years by the States of Vélay, for the relief of the distressed lace-makers, and again a fresh demand for exemption of the export duty.[655] This is declared in a memorial of 1761 to be the chief cause of the distress, which memorial also states that, to @@ -7509,7 +7481,7 @@ expedited by way of Cadiz to Peru and Mexico. The ladies of these countries trim their petticoats and other parts of their dress with such a profusion of lace as to render the consumption 'prodigieuse.'" "Les Anglois en donnent des commissions en contrebande pour l'Isthmus de Panama. Les -Hollandois en demandent aussi et faisaient expédier à Cadiz à leur +Hollandois en demandent aussi et faisaient expédier à Cadiz à leur compte."[656] We read, however, after a time, that the taste for a finer description of lace having penetrated to Mexico and Peru, the commerce of Le Puy had fallen off, and that from that epoch the work-people had @@ -7539,7 +7511,7 @@ Virgin, was shown in the French Exhibition of 1855. {246}In 1848 commerce and trade languished, and a cheaper lace was produced, made of worsted, for shawls and trimmings. This lace was not long in fashion, but it re-appeared a few years later under the name of "lama," -or "poil de chèvre," when it obtained a great success. The hair of the lama +or "poil de chèvre," when it obtained a great success. The hair of the lama has never been used. Le Puy now offers to the market an infinite variety of lace, and by means @@ -7549,27 +7521,27 @@ are copied from the laces of Le Puy and Mirecourt, they appear in the foreign, market after the originals. The finest collection of Auvergne lace in the International Exhibition -(1867) was from the fabric of Crâponne (Haute-Loire),[658] established in -1830 by M. Théodore Falcon, to whom Le Puy is indebted for her "musée de +(1867) was from the fabric of Crâponne (Haute-Loire),[658] established in +1830 by M. Théodore Falcon, to whom Le Puy is indebted for her "musée de dentelles," containing specimens of the lace of all countries and all ages, a most useful and instructive collection for the centre of a lace district. Le Puy has also a lace school, numbering a hundred pupils, and a school of design for lace patterns, founded in 1859.[659] -AURILLAC AND MURAT (DÉP. CANTAL). +AURILLAC AND MURAT (DÉP. CANTAL). -"L'on fait à Orillac les dentelles quit ont vogue dans le royaume," writes, -in 1670, the author of the _Délices de la France_.[660] The origin of the +"L'on fait à Orillac les dentelles quit ont vogue dans le royaume," writes, +in 1670, the author of the _Délices de la France_.[660] The origin of the fabric is assigned to the fourteenth century, when a company of emigrants -established themselves at Cuença and Valcameos, and nearly all the points +established themselves at Cuença and Valcameos, and nearly all the points of Aurillac were exported into Spain through this company. In 1688 there was sold on the Place at Marseilles annually to the amount of 350,000 livres of the products of Aurillac, with other fine laces of Auvergne.[661] In 1726 the produce was already reduced to 200,000 livres. The finest "points de France," writes Savary, were made at Aurillac and Murat, the former alone at one time producing to the annual value of 700,000 francs -(£28,000), and giving occupation to from 3,000 to 4,000 lace-workers. +(£28,000), and giving occupation to from 3,000 to 4,000 lace-workers. [Illustration: PLATE LXIII. @@ -7577,7 +7549,7 @@ PLATE LXIV. FRENCH.--Two specimens bought in France as Cambrai. They are typical of Northern French laces that became naturalised in England after the French -Revolution. Widths, 2½ and 3½ in. +Revolution. Widths, 2½ and 3½ in. Photos by A. Dryden from private collection.] @@ -7586,31 +7558,31 @@ PLATE LXV. [Illustration: FRENCH. BOBBIN-MADE.--From the environs of Le Puy. Period Louis XIII.-Louis XIV. Now made and called Guipure de Cluny. -In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] +In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] _To face page 246_ {247}An attempt to establish a "bureau" for Colbert's new manufacture of points de France was at first opposed, as we read: "Les trois femmes -envoyées par les entrepreneurs pour établir cette manufacture furent -attaqués dans les rues d'Aurillac. Les ouvrières de cette ville leur disait +envoyées par les entrepreneurs pour établir cette manufacture furent +attaqués dans les rues d'Aurillac. Les ouvrières de cette ville leur disait 'qu'elles prouvaient s'en retourner, parce qu'elles savaient mieux travailler qu'elles.'"[662] The lace-makers would not give up what the intendant terms "the wretched -old point," which M. Henri Duref, the historian of the Département de +old point," which M. Henri Duref, the historian of the Département de Cantal, describes, on the contrary, as consisting of rich flowered designs, such as may be seen by studying the portraits of many Auvergnat noblemen of the period. There are various letters on the subject in the Colbert Correspondence; and in the last from Colbert, 1670, he writes that the point d'Aurillac is improving, and there are 8,000 lace-women at work. It appears that he established at Aurillac a manufactory of lace where they -made, upon "des dessins flamands modifiés," a special article, then named +made, upon "des dessins flamands modifiés," a special article, then named "point Colbert," and subsequently "point d'Aurillac." In the Convent of the Visitation at Le Puy is shown the lace-trimming of an alb, point d'Angleterre. It is 28 inches wide, of white thread, with brides -picotées, of elegant scroll design. If, as tradition asserts, it was made +picotées, of elegant scroll design. If, as tradition asserts, it was made in the country, it must be the produce of this manufactory. It appears that rich "passements," as they are still called in the country, @@ -7623,9 +7595,9 @@ silk. In the inventory of the sacristy of the Benedictine monastery at St. Aligre, 1684, there is a great profusion of {248}lace. "Voile de brocard, -fond d'or entouré d'un point d'Espagne d'or et argent;" another, "garni de -dentelles d'or et argent, enrichi de perles fines"; "20 aubes à grandes -dentelles, amicts, lavabos, surplis," etc., all "à grandes ou petites +fond d'or entouré d'un point d'Espagne d'or et argent;" another, "garni de +dentelles d'or et argent, enrichi de perles fines"; "20 aubes à grandes +dentelles, amicts, lavabos, surplis," etc., all "à grandes ou petites dentelles."[663] In the inventory of Massillon's chapel at Beauregard, 1742, are albs @@ -7646,19 +7618,19 @@ described as wearing a "mante de point d'Aurillac or et argent." The Comte de Vermandois, a veste edged with the same; while Mademoiselle de Blois has "ses voiles de point d'Aurillac d'argent," and of the Duchesse de Mortemart it is said, "On voyait dessous ses plumes un voile de point d'Aurillac or -et argent qui tomboit sur ses 'épaules.'" The Chevalier Colbert, who +et argent qui tomboit sur ses 'épaules.'" The Chevalier Colbert, who appeared in an African costume, had "des manches pendantes" of the same material. The same _Mercure_ of April, 1681, speaking of the dress of the men, says, "La plupart portent des garnitures d'une richesse qui empeschera que les -particuliers ne les imitent, puisqu'elles reviennent à 50 louis. Ces +particuliers ne les imitent, puisqu'elles reviennent à 50 louis. Ces garnitures sont de point d'Espagne ou d'Aurillac." From the above notices, as well as from the fact that the greater part of these laces were sent into Spain, it appears that point d'Aurillac was a rich gold and silver lace, similar to the point d'Espagne. -The laces of Murat (Dép. Haute-Garonne) were "façon de {249}Malines et de +The laces of Murat (Dép. Haute-Garonne) were "façon de {249}Malines et de Lille." They were also made at La Chaise Dieu, Alenches, and Verceilles. Those points were greatly esteemed, and purchased by the wholesale traders of Le Puy and Clermont, who distributed them over the kingdom through their @@ -7679,45 +7651,45 @@ LIMOUSIN. In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, a kind of pillow net (torchon entoilage, Mr. Ferguson calls it)[665] for women's sleeves was manufactured -at Tulle (Corrèze) and also at Aurillac. From this circumstance many +at Tulle (Corrèze) and also at Aurillac. From this circumstance many writers have derived tulle, the French name for bobbin net, from this town. -M. Lefébure is of this opinion, and adduces in favour of it the fact that +M. Lefébure is of this opinion, and adduces in favour of it the fact that lace was made at Tulle in the eighteenth century, and that an account of 1775 mentions certain Mesdemoiselles Gantes as lace-makers in that town. The first dictionary in which the word "tulle" occurs is the French -Encyclopædia of 1765, where we find, "Tulle, une espèce de dentelle commune +Encyclopædia of 1765, where we find, "Tulle, une espèce de dentelle commune mais plus ordinairement ce qu'on appelait entoilage."[666] Entoilage, as we have already shown, is the plain net ground upon which the pattern is worked[667] or a plain net used to widen points or laces, or worn as a plain border. In Louis XV.'s reign Madame de Mailly is described, after she had retired from the world, as "sans rouge, sans poudre, et, qui plus est, -sans dentelles, attendu qu'elle ne portait plus que de l'entoilage à bord +sans dentelles, attendu qu'elle ne portait plus que de l'entoilage à bord plat."[668] We read in the _Tableau de Paris_ how "Le tul, la gaz et le -marli ont occupés cent mille mains." Tulle was made on the pillow in +marli ont occupés cent mille mains." Tulle was made on the pillow in Germany before lace was introduced. If tulle derived its name from any town, it would more probably be from Toul, celebrated, as all others in Lorraine, for its embroidery; and as net resembles the stitches made in embroidery by separating the threads (hemstitch, etc.), it {251}may have -taken its French name, Tulle, German Tüll, from the points de Tulle of the +taken its French name, Tulle, German Tüll, from the points de Tulle of the workwomen of the town of Toul, called in Latin Tullum, or Tullo.[669] LORRAINE. The lace[670] manufactures of Lorraine flourished in the seventeenth -century. Mirecourt (Dép. Vosges) and the villages of its environs, +century. Mirecourt (Dép. Vosges) and the villages of its environs, extending to the department of Meurthe, was the great centre of this trade, which formed the sole occupation of the countrywomen. For some centuries the lace-workers employed only hempen thread, spun in the environs of -Épinal, and especially at Châtel-sur-Moselle.[671] From this they produced +Épinal, and especially at Châtel-sur-Moselle.[671] From this they produced a species of coarse guipure termed "passament," or, in the patois of the province, "peussemot."[672] As early as the seventeenth century they set aside this coarse article and soon produced a finer and more delicate lace with various patterns: they -now made double ground and mignonette; and at Lunéville (Dép. Meurthe), -"dentelles à l'instar de Flandre." In 1715 an edict of Duke Leopold +now made double ground and mignonette; and at Lunéville (Dép. Meurthe), +"dentelles à l'instar de Flandre." In 1715 an edict of Duke Leopold regulates the manufacture at Mirecourt.[673] The lace was exported to Spain and the Indies. It found its way also to Holland, the German States, and England, where Randle Holme mentions "Points of Lorraine, without @@ -7745,17 +7717,17 @@ excellent taste, the work similar to that of Lille and Arras. Some few years since the making of application flowers was attempted with success at Mirecourt, and though it has not yet attained the perfection of the Brussels sprigs, yet it daily improves, and bids fair to supply France -with a production for which she now pays Belgium £120,000 annually. The +with a production for which she now pays Belgium £120,000 annually. The Lorraine application possesses one advantage over those of Flanders, the flowers come from the hands of the lace-makers clean and white, and do not require bleaching.[676] The price, too, is most moderate. The production which of late years has been of the most commercial value is the Cluny lace, so called from the first patterns being copied from specimens of old -lace in the Musée de Cluny. The immense success of this lace has been +lace in the Musée de Cluny. The immense success of this lace has been highly profitable to Mirecourt and Le Puy. {253}The wages of the 24,000 lace-workers averaging eightpence a day, their -annual products are estimated at £120,000. Much of the Lorraine lace is +annual products are estimated at £120,000. Much of the Lorraine lace is consumed at Paris and in the interior of France; the rest is exported to America, the East Indies, and the different countries of Europe. @@ -7769,19 +7741,19 @@ Great Wardrobe Account of Charles I., the cut-work of Sedan had then reached our country, and was of great price. We find in one account[678] a charge for "six handsome Sedan and Italian collars of cut-work, and for 62 yards of needlework purl for six pairs of linen ruffs" the enormous sum of -£116 6s. And again, in the last year of his reign, he has "six handsome +£116 6s. And again, in the last year of his reign, he has "six handsome Pultenarian Sedan collars of cut-work, with the same accompaniment of 72 -yards of needlework purl" amounting to £106 16s.[679] What these +yards of needlework purl" amounting to £106 16s.[679] What these Pultenarian collars may have been we cannot, at this distance of time, surmise; but the entries afford proof that the excellency of the Sedan -cut-work was known in England. Rheims, Château-Thierry and Sedan are +cut-work was known in England. Rheims, Château-Thierry and Sedan are mentioned among the other towns in the ordinance establishing the points de France in 1665. In less than four months Rheims numbered a hundred and forty workers, consisting of Venetians and Flemings, with seven from Paris and the natives of the place. In 1669 the number had fallen to sixty, in consequence of the price demanded for their board and lodging. Their lace was remarkable for its whiteness. Lace was made in the seventeenth century -at Sedan, Donchéry, Charleville, Mézières, Troyes and Sens. +at Sedan, Donchéry, Charleville, Mézières, Troyes and Sens. The thread manufacturers of Sedan furnished the material {254}necessary for all the lace-workers of Champagne. Much point de Sedan was made at @@ -7793,8 +7765,8 @@ Force, writing later, says the manufacture of points and laces at Sedan, formerly so flourishing, is now of little value.[682] Most of its lace-makers, being Protestants, emigrated after the Edict of -Revocation. Château-Renaud and Mézières were chiefly employed in the -manufacture of footings (_engrêlures_).[683] The laces of Donchéry were +Revocation. Château-Renaud and Mézières were chiefly employed in the +manufacture of footings (_engrêlures_).[683] The laces of Donchéry were similar to those of Charleville, but made of the Holland thread. They were less esteemed than those of Sedan. A large quantity were exported to Italy and Portugal; some few found their way to England and Poland. Up to the @@ -7804,26 +7776,26 @@ revolutionary anarchy, all the lace manufactures of this province disappeared. There are differences of opinion as to the exact character of Sedan lace. -M. Séguin considers it to have been a lace inferior in design and -workmanship to point de Venise à réseau. A single thread intervenes between -the pattern and the réseau, instead of the overcast cordonnet of Alençon, +M. Séguin considers it to have been a lace inferior in design and +workmanship to point de Venise à réseau. A single thread intervenes between +the pattern and the réseau, instead of the overcast cordonnet of Alençon, and in other respects it resembles late Venetian needlepoint. Certain authorities in Brussels, again, claim the point de Sedan as a needle-made -production of Brabant or Liège. M. Lefébure, on the other hand, considers -it as an important variety of Alençon. "The floral devices in points de +production of Brabant or Liège. M. Lefébure, on the other hand, considers +it as an important variety of Alençon. "The floral devices in points de Sedan, which are somewhat large and heavy in execution, spring from bold scroll forms, and in between them are big meshes of the 'grande maille -picotée' of the point de France. Instead of an even and slightly raised +picotée' of the point de France. Instead of an even and slightly raised stitching along their contours, these big flowers are accentuated here and there in well chosen parts by raised stitching, worked somewhat {255}with the effect of vigorous touches of rather forced high lights in a picture. These recurrent little mounds of relief, as they may be called, are frequently introduced with admirable artistic result. The finest bishops' rochets which appear in the later portraits by Hyacinthe Rigaud and de -Larguillière are of point de Sedan." +Larguillière are of point de Sedan." It is possible that both types of lace mentioned--the heavy kind, and the -lace with the réseau--are the productions of Sedan. +lace with the réseau--are the productions of Sedan. BURGUNDY. @@ -7845,7 +7817,7 @@ lace.[684] In the eighteenth century, a manufactory of Valenciennes was carried on in the hospital at Dijon, under the direction of the magistrates of the city. It fell towards the middle of the last century, and at the Revolution entirely disappeared.[685] "Les dentelles sont grosses," writes -Savary, "mais il s'en débite beaucoup en Franche-Comté." +Savary, "mais il s'en débite beaucoup en Franche-Comté." {256}LYONNOIS. @@ -7862,7 +7834,7 @@ neighbourhood of Beauvoisin, but the commerce had fallen off at the end of the last century. These blondes go by the familiar name of "bisettes." -ORLÉANOIS. +ORLÉANOIS. Colbert's attempts at establishing a manufactory of point de France at Montargis appear by his letters to have been unsuccessful. @@ -7876,8 +7848,8 @@ Nor were the reports from Bourges more encouraging. POITOU. Lace was made at Loudun, one of Colbert's foundations, in the seventeenth -century, but the fabric has always been common. "Mignonettes et dentelles à -poignet de chemises, et de prix de toutes espèces," from one sol six +century, but the fabric has always been common. "Mignonettes et dentelles à +poignet de chemises, et de prix de toutes espèces," from one sol six deniers the ell, to forty sols the piece of twelve ells. Children began lace-making at a very early age. "Loudun fournit quelques @@ -7921,7 +7893,7 @@ with Spain, Portugal and Italy; but she laid such high duties on foreign merchandise, the Dutch themselves set up manufactures of lace and other articles, and found a market for their produce even in France.[690] A few years later, the revocation of the Edict of Nantes[691] caused 4,000 -lace-makers to leave the town of Alençon alone. Many took refuge in +lace-makers to leave the town of Alençon alone. Many took refuge in Holland, where, says a writer of the day, "they were treated like artists." Holland gained more than she lost by Louis XIV. The French refugees founded a manufactory of that point lace called "dentelle a la Reine"[692] in the @@ -7938,7 +7910,7 @@ Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] _To face page 258._ -{259}A few years later, another Huguenot, Zacharie Châtelain,[694] +{259}A few years later, another Huguenot, Zacharie Châtelain,[694] introduced into Holland the industry, at that time so important, of making gold and silver lace. @@ -8039,7 +8011,7 @@ birthday and Christmas gifts. Previous to the eighteenth century the nets of Germany had already found a market in Paris.[701] "On vend," says the _Livre Commode des Adresses_ of -1692, "le treillis d'Allemagne en plusieurs boutiques de la rue Béthizy." +1692, "le treillis d'Allemagne en plusieurs boutiques de la rue Béthizy." "Dresden," says Anderson, "makes very fine lace," the truth of which is confirmed by nearly every traveller of the eighteenth century. We have @@ -8050,7 +8022,7 @@ in Chapter II., and which was carried to great perfection. double Dresden ruffles, which are just like a sheaf, but not so open as yours, for two pounds two." -"La broderie de Dresde est très connue et les ouvriers très habiles," says +"La broderie de Dresde est très connue et les ouvriers très habiles," says Savary. This drawn-work, for such it was, excited the emulation of other nations. @@ -8064,7 +8036,7 @@ From an ivory statuette by Koehler, Green Vault, Dresden. _To face page 262._] -{263}Ireland, in 1755, gave a premium of £5 for the best imitation of +{263}Ireland, in 1755, gave a premium of £5 for the best imitation of "Dresden point," while the Edinburgh Society, following in the wake, a year later presents to Miss Jenny Dalrymple a gold medal for "the best imitation of Dresden work in a pair of ruffles." @@ -8089,7 +8061,7 @@ that of the women. The lace is a dentelle torchon of large pattern, much in the style of the old lace of Ischia.[705] The Saxon needle-lace of the present day is made in imitation of old -Brussels, with small flowers on a réseau. Some is worked in coloured +Brussels, with small flowers on a réseau. Some is worked in coloured thread, and also black silk lace of the Chantilly type is made: of this the Erzgebirge is the chief centre. This lace is costly, and is sold at Dresden and other large towns of Germany, and particularly at Paris, where the @@ -8112,13 +8084,13 @@ specimens of early Flemish work from their colonies on the Elbe, established in the twelfth century by various German rulers. The work of these towns is of later date--of the fifteenth century--and has continued to the nineteenth century, when they made cambric caps, embroidered or -ornamented with drawn-work, and edged with bobbin-made Tönder lace, in the +ornamented with drawn-work, and edged with bobbin-made Tönder lace, in the style of eighteenth century Valenciennes. "Presque dans toutes sortes d'arts les plus habiles ouvriers, ainsi que les -plus riches négociants, sont de la religion prétendue réformée," said the +plus riches négociants, sont de la religion prétendue réformée," said the Chancellor d'Aguesseau;[706] and when his master, Louis XIV., whom he, in -not too respectful terms, calls "le roi trop crédule," signed the Act of +not too respectful terms, calls "le roi trop crédule," signed the Act of Revocation (1685), Europe was at once inundated with the most skilful workmen of France. Hamburg alone of the Hanse Towns received the wanderers. Lubec and Bremen, in defiance of the remonstrances of the Protestant @@ -8141,18 +8113,18 @@ had none. These "mangeurs d'haricots," as the Prussians styled the emigrants, soon amassed large fortunes, and exported their laces to Poland and to Russia. The tables were turned. France, who formerly exported lace in large quantities to Germany, now received it from the hands of her -exiled workmen, and in 1723 and 1734 we find "Arrêts du Conseil d'Etat," +exiled workmen, and in 1723 and 1734 we find "Arrêts du Conseil d'Etat," relative to the importation of German laces.[710] [Illustration: PLATE LXVII. -SWISS.--From near Neûchatel. Early nineteenth century. Similar in make to +SWISS.--From near Neûchatel. Early nineteenth century. Similar in make to Lille and some Devon lace.] [Illustration: PLATE LXVIII. GERMAN, NUREMBERG.--Used by the peasants on their caps. The cordonnet -suggests a Mechlin influence, whilst the heavy réseau is reminiscent of +suggests a Mechlin influence, whilst the heavy réseau is reminiscent of some Antwerp and Flemish and Italian village laces of the end of the seventeenth century.] @@ -8171,7 +8143,7 @@ _To face page 264._ {265}The Landgrave of Hesse also received the refugees, publishing an edict in their favour.[711] Two fabrics of fine point were established at Hanover.[712] Leipsic, Anspach,[713] Elberfeld, all profited by the -migration. "On compte," writes Peuchet, "à Leipsig cinq fabriques de +migration. "On compte," writes Peuchet, "à Leipsig cinq fabriques de dentelles et de galon d'or et argent." A large colony settled at Halle, where they made "Hungarian" lace--"Point @@ -8181,7 +8153,7 @@ tapestry.[715] The word, however, does occasionally occur:-- "Your Hungerland[716] bands and Spanish quellio ruffs, Great Lords and Ladies, feasted to survey."[717] -All these various fabrics were offsets of the Alençon trade. +All these various fabrics were offsets of the Alençon trade. Fynes Moryson expresses surprise at the simplicity of the German costume--ruffs of coarse cloth, made at home. The Dantzickers, however, he @@ -8191,7 +8163,7 @@ wives wear much lace of silk on their petticoats." Dandyism began in Germany, says a writer,[718] about 1626, when the women first wore silver, which appeared very remarkable, and "at last indeed white lace." A century later luxury at the baths of Baden had reached an excess unparalleled in -the {266}present day. The bath mantles, "équipage de bain," of both sexes +the {266}present day. The bath mantles, "équipage de bain," of both sexes are described as trimmed with the richest point, and after the bath were spread out ostentatiously as a show on the baths before the windows of the rooms. Lords and ladies, princesses and margraves, loitered up and down, @@ -8245,7 +8217,7 @@ together with an inscription dated 1718." Misson, who visited Nuremberg in 1698, describes the dress of a newly-married pair as rich in the extreme--that of the bridegroom as black, -"fort chargé de dentelles"; the bride as tricked out in the richest +"fort chargé de dentelles"; the bride as tricked out in the richest "dentelle antique," her petticoat trimmed with "des tresses d'or et de dentelle noire." @@ -8253,7 +8225,7 @@ In the Victoria and Albert Museum there are two women's ruffs from Nuremberg belonging to the latter part of the sixteenth or early seventeenth century, and embroidered in blue and black silk and white cotton, and edged with a coarse thread Mechlin lace with a large meshed -irregular plaited réseau, probably late seventeenth century. +irregular plaited réseau, probably late seventeenth century. Perhaps the finest collection of old German point is preserved, or rather was so, in 1840, in the palace of the ancient, but now extinct, @@ -8265,11 +8237,11 @@ printed in red, and the patterns, mostly borders, are of delicate and elegant design. (See APPENDIX.) Secondly comes one of later date, published by Sigismund Latomus at -Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605; and lastly, that {268}of "Metrepière Quinty, +Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605; and lastly, that {268}of "Metrepière Quinty, demor[=a]t dempre legl[=i]e de iii roies," a cul[=o]ge (Cologne), 1527. In Austria, writes Peuchet, "les dentelles de soie et de fil ne sont pas -moins bien travaillées." Many of the Protestant lace-workers took refuge in +moins bien travaillées." Many of the Protestant lace-workers took refuge in the cities of Freyburg and Altenburg. There is a collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum of cuffs @@ -8309,7 +8281,7 @@ Valenciennes and points.[723] PLATE LXX. [Illustration: HUNGARIAN. BOBBIN LACE.--Latter half of nineteenth century. -Widths, 6¼ and 2½ in. +Widths, 6¼ and 2½ in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] @@ -8317,7 +8289,7 @@ PLATE LXXI. [Illustration: AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN, SOUTH SLAVONIAN. CUFF OF LINEN EMBROIDERED IN SATIN STITCH IN WHITE SILK. WHITE SILK BOBBIN -LACE.--Eighteenth century. Width, 7½ in. +LACE.--Eighteenth century. Width, 7½ in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] @@ -8326,8 +8298,8 @@ _To face page 268._ {269}SWITZERLAND. - "Dans un vallon fort bien nommé Travers, - S'élève un mont, vrai séjour des hivers."--_Voltaire._ + "Dans un vallon fort bien nommé Travers, + S'élève un mont, vrai séjour des hivers."--_Voltaire._ In the Preface of the _Neues Modelbuch of Froschowern_, printed at Zurich (see APPENDIX), occurs the following:--"Amongst the different arts we must @@ -8365,13 +8337,13 @@ they want, and she takes their orders." Louis XIV. was furious.[726] Though lace-making employed many women in various parts of the country, who made a common description while tending their flocks in the mountains, -Neufchâtel has always been the _chef-lieu_ of the trade. "In this town," +Neufchâtel has always been the _chef-lieu_ of the trade. "In this town," says Savary, "they have carried their works to such a degree of perfection, as to rival the laces of Flanders, not only in beauty but in quality." We have ourselves seen in Switzerland guipures of fine workmanship that were made in the country, belonging to old families, in which they have remained as heirlooms; and have now in our possession a pair of lappets, made in the -last century at Neufchâtel, of such exquisite beauty as not to be surpassed +last century at Neufchâtel, of such exquisite beauty as not to be surpassed by the richest productions of Brussels. Formerly lace-making employed a large number of workwomen in the Val de @@ -8384,11 +8356,11 @@ exporting to the amount of 1,500,000 francs; on which the workwomen gained 800,000, averaging their labour at scarcely 8 sols per day. The villages of Fleurens and Connet were the centre of this once flourishing trade,[727] now ruined by competition with Mirecourt. In 1814 there were in the -Neufchâtel district, 5628 lace-makers; in 1844 a few aged women alone -remained. The modern laces of Neufchâtel resemble those of Lille, but are +Neufchâtel district, 5628 lace-makers; in 1844 a few aged women alone +remained. The modern laces of Neufchâtel resemble those of Lille, but are apt to wash thick. (Plate LXVII.) -In 1840, a fabric of "point plat de Bruxelles dite de Genève" was +In 1840, a fabric of "point plat de Bruxelles dite de Genève" was established at Geneva. By the sumptuary laws of Zurich,[728] which were most {271}severe, women @@ -8398,11 +8370,11 @@ Zurich," says Anderson, "makes much gold, silver, and thread lace." Several pattern-books for lace were published in Switzerland in the later years of the sixteenth century; one, without a date, but evidently printed -at Zürich about 1540, by C. Froschowern, is entitled, _Nüw Modelbüch -allerley Gattungen Däntel_, etc. Another one, entitled _New Model-buch_, +at Zürich about 1540, by C. Froschowern, is entitled, _Nüw Modelbüch +allerley Gattungen Däntel_, etc. Another one, entitled _New Model-buch_, printed by G. Strauben, 1593, at St. Gall, is but a reprint of the third book of Vecellio's _Corona_. Another, called also _Sehr Newe Model-Buch_, -was published at Basle in 1599, at the printing-house of Ludwig Künigs. +was published at Basle in 1599, at the printing-house of Ludwig Künigs. @@ -8422,7 +8394,7 @@ DENMARK. --Holberg. _The Inconstant Lady._ - "The far-famed lace of Tönder." + "The far-famed lace of Tönder." "A certain kind of embroidery, or cut-work in linen, was much used in Denmark before lace came in from Brabant," writes Professor Thomsen. "This @@ -8442,7 +8414,7 @@ here that King Christian IV. appears to have made his purchases; and while travelling in Schleswig, entries constantly occur in his journal book, from 1619 to 1625, such as, "Paid to a female lace-worker 28 rixdollars--71 specie to a lace-seller for lace for the use of the children," and many -similar {273}notices.[730] It was one of those pieces of Tönder lace that +similar {273}notices.[730] It was one of those pieces of Tönder lace that King Christian sends to his Chamberlain, with an autograph letter, ordering him to cut out of it four collars of the same size and manner as Prince Ulrik's Spanish. They must contrive also to get two pairs of manchettes out @@ -8467,12 +8439,12 @@ choice. The year 1647 was a great epoch in the lace-making of Jutland. A merchant named Steenbeck, taking a great interest in the fabric, engaged twelve persons from Dortmund, in Westphalia, to improve the trade, and settled -them at Tönder, to teach the manufacture to both men and women, rich and +them at Tönder, to teach the manufacture to both men and women, rich and poor. These twelve persons are described as aged men, with long beards, which, while making lace, they gathered into bags, to prevent the hair from becoming entangled among the bobbins. The manufacture soon made great progress under their guidance, and extended to the south-western part of -Ribe, and to the island of Romö.[732] The lace was sold by means of "lace +Ribe, and to the island of Romö.[732] The lace was sold by means of "lace postmen," as they were termed, who carried their wares throughout all Scandinavia and parts of Germany. @@ -8489,7 +8461,7 @@ apparel to the hangman to be disgraced, when brought in by gentlemen." [Illustration: Fig. 116. -TÖNDER LACE, DRAWN MUSLIN.--Denmark, eighteenth century. Width 2¾ inches. +TÖNDER LACE, DRAWN MUSLIN.--Denmark, eighteenth century. Width 2¾ inches. Victoria and Albert Museum. _To face page 274._] @@ -8497,8 +8469,8 @@ _To face page 274._] {275}About the year 1712 the lace manufacture again was much improved by the arrival of a number of Brabant women, who accompanied the troops of King Frederick IV. on their return from the Netherlands,[736] and settled -at Tönder. We have received from Jutland, through the kind exertions of Mr. -Rudolf Bay, of Aalborg, a series of Tönder laces, taken from the +at Tönder. We have received from Jutland, through the kind exertions of Mr. +Rudolf Bay, of Aalborg, a series of Tönder laces, taken from the pattern-books of the manufacturers. The earlier specimens are all of Flemish character. There is the old Flanders lace, with its Dutch flowers and double and trolly grounds in endless variety. The Brabant, with fine @@ -8527,7 +8499,7 @@ richness. The lace industry continued to increase in value till the beginning of the present century. The year 1801 may be considered its culminating point. At -that period the number of peasants employed in Tönder and its neighbourhood +that period the number of peasants employed in Tönder and its neighbourhood alone was 20,000. Even little boys were taught to make lace till strong enough to work in the fields, and there was scarcely a house without a lace-maker, who would sit before her {276}cottage door, working from @@ -8567,17 +8539,17 @@ informant tells of a lady in the north who thus embroidered the christening robe of her child by stealth in the kitchen, fearing to be caught by her visitors--cookery had in those days precedence over embroidery. Among the hoards of this child, born 1755, was found a most exquisite collection of -old Tönder lace, embracing all the varieties made by her mother and +old Tönder lace, embracing all the varieties made by her mother and herself, from the thick Flemish to the finest needle-point. PLATE LXXII. -[Illustration: RUSSIAN.--The upper piece of lace is needle-point "à brides -picotées." Modern reproduction of a sixteenth century design. Width, 3-3/8 +[Illustration: RUSSIAN.--The upper piece of lace is needle-point "à brides +picotées." Modern reproduction of a sixteenth century design. Width, 3-3/8 in. GERMAN. SAXON.--The lower piece bobbin-made by the peasants of the -Erzgebirge. Nineteenth century. Width, 3¼ in. +Erzgebirge. Nineteenth century. Width, 3¼ in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] @@ -8591,12 +8563,12 @@ Photo by A. Dryden.] _To face page 276._ {277}The fashion of cut-work still prevails in Denmark, where collars and -cuffs, decorated with stars, crosses, and other mediæval designs, are +cuffs, decorated with stars, crosses, and other mediæval designs, are exposed in the shop-windows of Copenhagen for sale--the work of poor gentlewomen, who, by their needle, thus add a few dollars yearly to their income. -From 1830 dates the decline of the Tönder lace. Cotton thread was +From 1830 dates the decline of the Tönder lace. Cotton thread was introduced, and the quality of the fabric was deteriorated.[740] The lace schools were given up; and the flourishing state of agriculture rendered it no longer a profitable employment either for the boys or the women.[741] @@ -8628,7 +8600,7 @@ depicted in an ancient portrait, said to have been taken at Rome after death, is ornamented with a species of perforated needlework.[743] By the rules of the convent, the nuns of Wadstena were forbidden to touch either gold or silver, save in their netting and embroidery. There exists an old -journal of the Kloster, called _Diarium Vadstenænse_, in which are, +journal of the Kloster, called _Diarium Vadstenænse_, in which are, however, no allusions to the art; but the letters of a Wadstena nun to her lover _extra muros_, published from an old collection[744] of documents, somewhat help us in our researches. @@ -8680,12 +8652,12 @@ from her Majesty Queen {280}Louisa. Specimens of Wadstena lace--the only lace manufactory now existing in Sweden--were sent to the Great International Exhibition of 1862. -Hölesom, or cut-work, is a favourite employment of Swedish women, and is +Hölesom, or cut-work, is a favourite employment of Swedish women, and is generally taught in the schools.[747] At the various bathing-places you may see the young ladies working as industriously as if for their daily sustenance; they never purchase such articles of decoration, but entirely adorn their houses by the labours of their own hands. It was by a collar of -this hölesom, worked in silk and gold, that young Gustaf Erikson was nearly +this hölesom, worked in silk and gold, that young Gustaf Erikson was nearly betrayed when working as a labourer in the barn of Rankhytta, the property of his old college friend, Anders Petersen. A servant girl observed to her master, "The new farm-boy can be no peasant; for," says she, "his linen is @@ -8710,16 +8682,16 @@ seen of a summer's evening sitting at the cottage doors making lace. Though no other lace manufactory can be said to exist in Sweden beyond that of Wadstena, still a coarse bobbin lace is made by the peasantry for home consumption. The author has received from the Countess Elizabeth Piper, -late Grande Maîtresse to her Majesty the Queen of Sweden, specimens of +late Grande Maîtresse to her Majesty the Queen of Sweden, specimens of coarse pillow laces, worked by the Scanian peasant women, which, she writes, "form a favourite occupation for the women of our province." PLATE LXXIV. [Illustration: RUSSIAN.--Part of a long border setting forth a Procession. -Lacis and embroidery in silk. The lace is bobbin-made in thread. Réseau +Lacis and embroidery in silk. The lace is bobbin-made in thread. Réseau similar to Valenciennes. The Russian thread is good quality linen. Size of -portion shown 18½ x 14 in. The property of Madame Pogosky. +portion shown 18½ x 14 in. The property of Madame Pogosky. Photo by A. Dryden.] @@ -8742,11 +8714,11 @@ wonderful. DALECARLIAN LACE.] -The specimens from Rättwik are narrow "seaming" laces of the lozenge +The specimens from Rättwik are narrow "seaming" laces of the lozenge pattern. There is also a sort of plaiting used as a fringe, in the style of the -Genoese macramè, from the ends of a small {282}sheet which the peasants +Genoese macramè, from the ends of a small {282}sheet which the peasants spread over their pillows. No improvement takes place in the designs. The Dalecarlian women do not make a trade of lace-making, they merely work to supply their own wants.[750] @@ -8817,7 +8789,7 @@ Cistercians flourished in the place. Much of a simple design and coarse quality is made in Belev, Vologda, Riazan, Mzeresk. At Vologda a lace resembling torchon is made, with colours -introduced, red, blue, and écru and white.[751] In some laces silks of +introduced, red, blue, and écru and white.[751] In some laces silks of various colours are employed. Pillow-lace has only been known in Russia for over a hundred years, and although the {284}lace produced is effective, it is coarse in texture and crude in pattern. Late in the nineteenth century @@ -9140,7 +9112,7 @@ to cite. {296}In the marriage accounts of Prince Charles[798] we have charged 150 yards of bone lace[799] for six extraordinary ruffs and twelve pairs of cuffs, against the projected Spanish marriage. The lace was at 9s. a yard. -Sum total, £67 10s.[800] Bone lace is mentioned in the catalogue of King +Sum total, £67 10s.[800] Bone lace is mentioned in the catalogue of King Charles I.'s pictures, drawn up by Vanderdort,[801] where James I. is described "without a hat, in a bone lace falling band."[802] @@ -9408,11 +9380,11 @@ the "16 appointed waiters," in reference to the importation of haberdashery, etc., by which it appears that her Majesty was a loser of "5 or 600 l. by yere at least" in the customs on "parsement, cap rebone bone lace, cheyne lace," etc.,[857] but with what effect we know not. The annual -import of these articles is therein stated at £10,000, an enormous increase +import of these articles is therein stated at £10,000, an enormous increase since the year 1559, when, among the "necessary and unnecessary wares" brought into the port of London,[858] together with "babies" (dolls), "glasses to looke in," "glasses to drinke in," pottes, gingerbread, -cabbages, and other matters, we find enumerated, "Laces of all sortes, £775 +cabbages, and other matters, we find enumerated, "Laces of all sortes, £775 6s. 8d.," just one-half less than the more necessary, though less refined item of "eles fresh and salt."[859] @@ -9591,7 +9563,7 @@ sparks of rubies and pearls.[890] The cut-work ruff is decorated or enriched with ornament of every description. Nothing could be too gorgeous or too extravagant.[891] Great was the wrath of old Philip Stubbes[892] at these monstrosities, which, -standing out a quarter of a yard or more, "if Æolus with his blasts or +standing out a quarter of a yard or more, "if Æolus with his blasts or Neptune with his stormes chaunce to hit upon the crazie bark or their bruised ruffes, then they goe flip flap in the winde like ragges that flew abroade, lying upon their shoulders like the dishclout of a slut. But wot @@ -9603,7 +9575,7 @@ subject. Lace has always been made of human hair, and of this we have frequent mention in the expenses of Queen Elizabeth. We believe the invention to be far older than her reign, for there is frequent allusion to it in the early -romaunces. In the _Chevalier aux ij Epées_ (MS. Bib. Nat.), a lady requires +romaunces. In the _Chevalier aux ij Epées_ (MS. Bib. Nat.), a lady requires of King Ris that he should present her with a mantle fringed with the beards of nine conquered kings, and hemmed with that of King Arthur, who was yet to conquer. The mantle is to have "de sa barbe le tassel." {314}The @@ -9618,8 +9590,8 @@ to swell the majesty of the royal "pirrywygge." That point tresse, as this hair-lace is called, was known in her day, we have evidence in the Chartley inventory of Mary Stuart, in which is -mentioned, "Un petit quarré fait à point tresse ouvré par la vieille -Comtesse de Lennox elle estant à la Tour"; a tribute of affection the old +mentioned, "Un petit quarré fait à point tresse ouvré par la vieille +Comtesse de Lennox elle estant à la Tour"; a tribute of affection the old countess would scarcely have offered to her daughter-in-law had she regarded her as implicated in the murder of her son. The writer saw at Chantilly an aged lace-maker employed in making a lace ground of hair on @@ -9657,7 +9629,7 @@ JAMES I. All other people knew no use of them." Taylor, "Water-Poet." 1640. -The ruff single, double, three piled, and Dædalian,[895] to the delight of +The ruff single, double, three piled, and Dædalian,[895] to the delight of the satirists, retained its sway during the early days of King James I. It was the "commode" of the eighteenth--the crinoline of the nineteenth century. Every play teems with allusions to this monstrosity. One compares @@ -9707,7 +9679,7 @@ time, as Ben Jonson has it, men thought little of "turning four or five hundred acres of their best land into two or three trunks of apparel."[902] According to the Wardrobe Accounts,[903] "twenty-five yards of fyne bone lace" was required to edge a ruff, without counting the ground, composed -either of lace squares or cut-work. Queen Anne, his consort, pays £5 for +either of lace squares or cut-work. Queen Anne, his consort, pays £5 for her wrought ruff, for "shewing" which eighteen yards of fine lace are purchased at 5s. 8d.[904] @@ -9737,10 +9709,10 @@ Dean of Westminster ordered no lady or gentleman wearing yellow ruffs to be admitted into any pew in his church; but finding this "ill taken," and the King "moved in it," he ate his own words, and declared it to be all a mistake.[907] This fashion, again, gave great offence even in France. Since -the English[908] {318}alliance, writes the _Courtisane à la Mode_, -1625,[909] "cette mode Anglaise sera cause qu'il pourra advenir une cherté +the English[908] {318}alliance, writes the _Courtisane à la Mode_, +1625,[909] "cette mode Anglaise sera cause qu'il pourra advenir une cherté sur le safran qui fera que les Bretons et les Poitevins seront contraints -de manger leur beurre blanc et non pas jaune, comme ils sont accoutumés." +de manger leur beurre blanc et non pas jaune, comme ils sont accoutumés." The Bishops, who first denounced the ruff, themselves held to the fashion long after it had been set aside by all other professions. Folks were not @@ -9809,7 +9781,7 @@ counties, leading us to infer them to have been of English manufacture.[924] The bill of laced linen purchased at the "Queen's lying down" on the birth -of the Princess Sophia, in 1606, amounts to the sum of £614 5s. 8d.[925] In +of the Princess Sophia, in 1606, amounts to the sum of £614 5s. 8d.[925] In this we have no mention of any foreign-made laces. The child lived but three days. Her little monument, of cradle-form, with lace-trimmed coverlets and sheets (Fig. 125), stands close to the recumbent effigy of @@ -9850,11 +9822,11 @@ MONUMENT OF THE PRINCESS MARY. + 1607. THIRD DAUGHTER OF JAMES I. (Westminster Abbey.)] Among the early entries of Prince Charles, we have four nightcaps of -cut-work, £7,[930] for making two of which for his {323}Highness, garnished -with gold and silver lace, Patrick Burke receives £15;[931] but these +cut-work, £7,[930] for making two of which for his {323}Highness, garnished +with gold and silver lace, Patrick Burke receives £15;[931] but these modest entries are quite put to shame by those of his royal father, who, for ten yards of needlework lace "pro le edginge" of his "galiriculis vulgo -nightcaps," pays £16 13s. 4d.[932] Well might the Water-Poet exclaim-- +nightcaps," pays £16 13s. 4d.[932] Well might the Water-Poet exclaim-- "A nightcap is a garment of high state."[933] @@ -9906,15 +9878,15 @@ the purchase of cut-work and Flanders lace. In the warrant of the Great Wardrobe for the marriage expenses of the ill-fated Princess Elizabeth, on which occasion it is recorded of poor Arabella Stuart, the "Lady Arabella, though still in the Tower, has shewn -her joy by buying four new gowns, one of which cost £1,500,"[943] in +her joy by buying four new gowns, one of which cost £1,500,"[943] in addition to "gold cheine laze, silver spangled, silver looped, myllen bone lace, drawneworke poynte, black silk Naples lace," etc., all in the most astonishing quantity, we have the astounding entry of 1,692 ounces of silver bone lace.[944] No wonder, in {326}after days, the Princess caused so much anxiety to the Palatine's Privy Purse, Colonel Schomberg, who in vain implores her to have her linen and lace bought beforehand, and paid at -every fair.[945] "You brought," he writes, "£3,000 worth of linen from -England, and have bought £1,000 worth here," and yet "you are ill +every fair.[945] "You brought," he writes, "£3,000 worth of linen from +England, and have bought £1,000 worth here," and yet "you are ill provided."[946] @@ -9951,7 +9923,7 @@ rest of the world--when Whitelock, in 1635, addresses the Quarter Sessions arrayed in the new fashion, owned "one may speak as good sense in a falling band as in a ruff." The change did not, however, diminish the extravagance of the age. The bills for the King's lace and linen, which in the year 1625 -amounted to £1,000, in course of time rose to £1,500.[950] Falling bands of +amounted to £1,000, in course of time rose to £1,500.[950] Falling bands of Flanders bone lace and cut-work appear constantly in the accounts.[951] As the foreign materials are carefully specified (it was one of these articles, then a novelty, that Queen Anne of Denmark "bought of the French @@ -9986,7 +9958,7 @@ The art of lace-making was now carried to great perfection in England; so much so, that the lease of twenty-one years, granted in 1627 to Dame Barbara Villiers, of the duties on gold and silver thread, became a terrible loss to the holder, who, in 1629, petitions for a discharge of -£437 10s. arrears due to the Crown. The prayer is favourably received by +£437 10s. arrears due to the Crown. The prayer is favourably received by the officers of the Customs, to whom it was referred, who answer they "conceive those duties will decay, for the invention of making Venice gold and silver lace within the kingdom is come to that perfection, that it will @@ -10048,7 +10020,7 @@ honor of my nation and my own credit." Referring to the same demand, the Countess again writes to her lord, May 18th, 1637, Leicester House:--"All my present for the Queen of France is provided, which I have done with great care and some trouble; the expenses -I cannot yet directly tell you, but I think it will be about £120, for the +I cannot yet directly tell you, but I think it will be about £120, for the bone laces are extremely dear. I intend to {331}send it by Monsieur Ruvigny, for most of the things are of new fashion, and if I should keep them they would be less acceptable, for what is new now will quickly grow @@ -10178,11 +10150,11 @@ disbursements of the Committee of Safety, 1660, a political _jeu d'esprit_ which preceded the Restoration, we find entered for Lady Lambert-- "Item, for seven new whisks lac'd with Flanders lace of the last Edition, -each whisk is valued at fifty pound, £350." +each whisk is valued at fifty pound, £350." Followed up by-- -"Six new Flanders lac'd smocks, £300." +"Six new Flanders lac'd smocks, £300." The whisk, as the gorget was now termed, was as great an object of extravagance to the women as was the falling band to the men. It continued @@ -10235,7 +10207,7 @@ of the same trade have caused much thread to be brought into the country, whereby the customs have been greatly advanced, until of late large quantities of bone lace, cut-work, etc., were brought into the kingdom and sold contrary to the former Statutes and the proclamation of November last; -all such bone lace is to be forfeited, and a penalty of £100 paid by the +all such bone lace is to be forfeited, and a penalty of £100 paid by the offender."[983] This same Act only occasioned the more smuggling of lace from Flanders, for @@ -10253,7 +10225,7 @@ school of Mazarin. As the galleries of the cardinal were filled with sculptures, paintings, and majolica--rich produce of Italian art, as patterns for France, "per mostra di farne in Francia"--so the king's "pilea nocturna," pillow-beres, cravats, were trimmed with the points of -Venice[985] and Flanders, at the rate of £600 per annum, for the sake of +Venice[985] and Flanders, at the rate of £600 per annum, for the sake of improving the lace manufacture of England. The introduction of the flowing wig, with its long curls covering the @@ -10343,7 +10315,7 @@ grounding."[997] Evelyn himself, in his _Fop's Dictionary_ (1690), gives, "Colbertine, a lace resembling net-work of the fabric of Monsieur Colbert, superintendent of the French King's manufactures;" and the _Ladies' Dictionary_, 1694, repeats his definition. This is more incomprehensible -still, point d'Alençon being the lace that can be specially styled of "the +still, point d'Alençon being the lace that can be specially styled of "the fabric" of Colbert, and Colbertine appears to have been a coarse production.[998] Swift talks of knowing @@ -10367,9 +10339,9 @@ the fashion of the day; more prominence, however, was given to the lace cravats, which were worn loosely round the throat, and with their ends hanging down over the upper part of the vest. -Charles II., in the last year of his reign, spends £20 12s. for a new +Charles II., in the last year of his reign, spends £20 12s. for a new cravat to be worn "on the birthday of his dear brother,"[1002] and James -expends £29 upon one of Venice point to appear in on that of his queen. +expends £29 upon one of Venice point to appear in on that of his queen. Frequent entries of lace for the attendants of the Chapel Royal form items in the Royal Wardrobe Accounts. @@ -10390,7 +10362,7 @@ at the French court, and the protection of the angels, which, she writes, "I experienced once when I {341}set fire to my lace night cornet, which was burned to the very head without singeing a single hair"--good Queen Mary of Modena, who shone so brightly in her days of adversity, died, _selon les -règles_, coeffed in like fashion. +règles_, coeffed in like fashion. With this notice we finish the St. Germains reign of King James the Second. @@ -10422,7 +10394,7 @@ In 1698 the English Parliament passed another Act "for rendering the laws more effectual for preventing the importation of foreign Bone lace, Loom lace, Needlework Point, and Cutwork,"[1005] with a penalty of 20s. per yard, and forfeiture. This Act caused such excitement among the convents -and béguinages of Flanders that the Government, at that time under the +and béguinages of Flanders that the Government, at that time under the dominion of Spain, prohibited, by way of retaliation, the importation of English wool. In consequence of the general distress occasioned by this edict {342}among the woolstaplers of England, the Act prohibiting the @@ -10448,22 +10420,22 @@ hen."[1010] Never yet were such sums expended on lace as in the days of William and Mary. The lace bill of the Queen, signed by Lady Derby, Mistress of the -Robes, for the year 1694, amounts to the enormous sum of £1,918.[1011] +Robes, for the year 1694, amounts to the enormous sum of £1,918.[1011] Among the most extravagant entries we find:-- - £. s. d. + £. s. d. 21 yards of lace for 12 pillow beres, at 52s. 54 12 0 - 16 yards of lace for 2 toylights (toilets), at £12 192 0 0 - 24 yards for 6 handkerchiefs, at £4 10s. 108 0 0 + 16 yards of lace for 2 toylights (toilets), at £12 192 0 0 + 24 yards for 6 handkerchiefs, at £4 10s. 108 0 0 30 yards for 6 night shifts, at 62s. 93 0 0 - 6 yards for 2 combing cloths, at £14 84 0 0 - 3½ yards for a combing cloth at £17 53 2 6 {343} - 3-1/8 do. at £14 42 0 0 + 6 yards for 2 combing cloths, at £14 84 0 0 + 3½ yards for a combing cloth at £17 53 2 6 {343} + 3-1/8 do. at £14 42 0 0 An apron of lace 17 0 0 None of the lace furnished by Mr. Bampton, thread lace provider and milliner to the court, for the Queen's engageantes and ruffles, however, -seems to have exceeded £5 10_s_. the yard. There is little new in this +seems to have exceeded £5 10_s_. the yard. There is little new in this account. The lace is entered as scalloped,[1012] ruffled, loopt: lace purle[1013] still lingers on; catgut, too, appears for the first time,[1014] as well as raised point[1015] and needlework.[1016] The Queen's @@ -10475,22 +10447,22 @@ the once fair Hortense, who ended her exiled life in England. King William himself, early imbued with the Dutch taste for lace, exceeded, we may say, his wife in the extravagance of his lace bills; for though the -lace account for 1690 is noted only at £1,603, it increases annually until -the year 1695-6, when the entries amount to the astonishing sum of £2,459 +lace account for 1690 is noted only at £1,603, it increases annually until +the year 1695-6, when the entries amount to the astonishing sum of £2,459 19s.[1019] Among the items charged will be found:-- - £. s. d. + £. s. d. To six point cravats 158 0 0 To eight do. for hunting 85 0 0 54 yds. for 6 barbing cloths 270 0 0 63 yds. for 6 combing cloths 283 10 0 - 117 yards of "scissæ teniæ" (cut-work) + 117 yards of "scissæ teniæ" (cut-work) for trimming 12 pockethandfs 485 14 3 - 78 yds. for 24 cravats, at £8 10s. 663 0 0 + 78 yds. for 24 cravats, at £8 10s. 663 0 0 {344}In this right royal account of expenditure we find mention of -"cockscombe laciniæ," of which the King consumes 344 yards.[1020] What this +"cockscombe laciniæ," of which the King consumes 344 yards.[1020] What this may be we cannot say, as it is described as "green and white"; otherwise we might have supposed it some kind of Venice point, the little pearl-edged raised patterns of which are designated by Randle Holme as "cockscombs." @@ -10499,19 +10471,19 @@ More coquet than a woman, we find an exchange effected with Henry Furness, cloths, which, laid by during the two years of "lugubris" for his beloved consort, the Queen--during which period he had used razor cloths with broad hems and no lace--had become "obsolete"--quite out of fashion. To effect -this exchange the King pays the sum of £178 12s. 6d., the lace purchased -for the six new razor cloths amounting to £270. In the same page we find -him, now out of mourning, expending £499 10s. for lace to trim his +this exchange the King pays the sum of £178 12s. 6d., the lace purchased +for the six new razor cloths amounting to £270. In the same page we find +him, now out of mourning, expending £499 10s. for lace to trim his twenty-four new nightshirts, "indusiis nocturnis." With such royal patronage, no wonder the lace trade prospered, and that, within ten years of William's death, Defoe should quote the point lace of -Blandford as selling at £30 the yard. +Blandford as selling at £30 the yard. PLATE LXXXIII. [Illustration: JAMES, THE OLD PRETENDER, 1688-1766, WITH HIS SISTER -PRINCESS LOUISA, 1692-1712. In 1695. By Nicolas de Largillière. National +PRINCESS LOUISA, 1692-1712. In 1695. By Nicolas de Largillière. National Portrait Gallery. Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] @@ -10583,7 +10555,7 @@ Day_:-- Lace had now become an article worthy the attention of the light-fingered gentry. The jewels worn by our great-grandmothers of the eighteenth century, though mounted in the most exquisite taste, were for the most part -false--Bristol or Alençon "diamonds," paste, or "Strass." Lace, on the +false--Bristol or Alençon "diamonds," paste, or "Strass." Lace, on the other hand, was a sure commodity and easily disposed of. At the robbery of Lady Anderson's house in Red Lion Square during a fire, in 1700, the family of George Heneage, Esq., on a visit, are recorded to have lost--"A head @@ -10613,10 +10585,10 @@ the future to sit with their backs to the horses.[1027] Queen Anne, though less extravagant than her sister, was scarcely more patriotic. The point purchased for her coronation,[1028] though it cost but -£64 13s. 9d., was of Flanders growth. The bill is made out to the royal +£64 13s. 9d., was of Flanders growth. The bill is made out to the royal laceman of King William's day, now Sir Henry Furnesse, knight and merchant. -The Queen, too, in her gratitude, conferred a pension of £100 upon one Mrs. +The Queen, too, in her gratitude, conferred a pension of £100 upon one Mrs. Abrahat, the royal clear-starcher; "because," writes the Duchess of Marlborough, "she had washed the Queen's heads for twenty pounds a year when she was princess." @@ -10631,25 +10603,25 @@ fashion.[1030] English have so great an esteem for the workmanship of the French refugees, that hardly a thing vends without a Gallic name."[1031] -To the refugees from Alençon and elsewhere, expelled by the cruel edict of +To the refugees from Alençon and elsewhere, expelled by the cruel edict of Louis XIV., we owe the visible improvement of our laces in the eighteenth century. Up to the present time we have had mention only of {348}"Flanders lace" in general. In the reign of Queen Anne the points of "Macklin" and Brussels are first noted down in the Royal Wardrobe Accounts. In 1710 her Majesty -pays for 26 yards of fine edged Brussels lace £151.[1032] "Mais, l'appétit +pays for 26 yards of fine edged Brussels lace £151.[1032] "Mais, l'appétit vient en mangeant." The bill of Margareta Jolly, for the year 1712, for the furnishing of Mechlin and Brussels lace alone, amounts to the somewhat -extravagant sum of £1,418 14_s_. Taking the average price of the "Lace +extravagant sum of £1,418 14_s_. Taking the average price of the "Lace chanter on Ludgate Hill," articles of daily use were costly enough. "One -Brussels head is valued at £40; a grounded Brussels head, £30; one looped -Brussels, £30." These objects, high as the price may seem, lasted a woman's +Brussels head is valued at £40; a grounded Brussels head, £30; one looped +Brussels, £30." These objects, high as the price may seem, lasted a woman's life. People in the last century did not care for variety, they contented themselves with a few good articles; hence among the objects given in 1719, as necessary to a lady of fashion, we merely find:-- - £ s. d. + £ s. d. A French point or Flanders head and ruffles 80 0 0 A ditto handkerchief 10 0 0 @@ -10661,7 +10633,7 @@ point ones, with ruffles and lappets, six French caps and ruffles.[1033] Two point lace cravats were considered as a full supply for any gentleman. Even young extravagant Lord Bedford, who, at eighteen years of age, found -he could not spend less than £6,000 a year at Rome, when on the grand tour, +he could not spend less than £6,000 a year at Rome, when on the grand tour, only charges his mother, Rachel Lady Russell, with that number.[1034] The high commode,[1035] with its lace rising tier upon tier, which made the @@ -10673,7 +10645,7 @@ extravagant height, "insomuch that the female part of our species were In 1711 Anne forbade the entry of gold and silver lace,[1038] of which the consumption had become most preposterous,[1039] under pain of forfeiture -and the fine of £100. Ladies wore even cherry-coloured stays trimmed with +and the fine of £100. Ladies wore even cherry-coloured stays trimmed with the forbidden fabric.[1040] The point of Spain had the preference over thread lace for state garments, heads and ruffles excepted; and as late as 1763, when the Dowager Lady Effingham was robbed of her coronation robes, @@ -10684,7 +10656,7 @@ comfortable footing. "The Flander-kins," writes the _British Merchant_ in 1713, "are gone off from wool, which we have got, to lace and linen.... We have learned better, I hope, by our unsuccessful attempt to prohibit the Flanders laces, which made the Flemings retaliate upon us, and lessened our -exportation of woollen manufactures by several £100,000 per annum."[1041] +exportation of woollen manufactures by several £100,000 per annum."[1041] Men looked upon lace as a necessary article to their wives' equipment. Addison declares that when the China mania first came in, women exchanged @@ -10761,7 +10733,7 @@ petticoats."[1048] Even wise Mrs. Elizabeth Montague, who wrote epistles about the ancients, and instead of going to a ball, sat at home and read Sophocles, exclaims to her sister--"Surely your heroic spirit will prefer a beau's hand in -Brussels lace to a stubborn Scævola without an arm." +Brussels lace to a stubborn Scævola without an arm." PLATE LXXXIV. @@ -10946,7 +10918,7 @@ The revenue officers made frequent visits to the tailors' shops, and confiscated whatever articles they found of foreign manufacture. On January 19th, 1752, a considerable quantity of foreign lace, gold and -silver, seized at a tailor's, who paid the penalty of £100, was publicly +silver, seized at a tailor's, who paid the penalty of £100, was publicly burnt.[1065] George III., who really from his coming to the throne endeavoured to @@ -10957,7 +10929,7 @@ little attention. Three days previous to the marriage a descent was made by the Customs on the court milliner of the day, and nearly the whole of the clothes, silver, gold stuffs and lace, carried off, to the dismay of the modiste, as well as of the ladies deprived of their finery. The disgusted -French milliner retired with a fortune of £11,000 to Versailles, where she +French milliner retired with a fortune of £11,000 to Versailles, where she purchased a villa, which, in base ingratitude to the English court, she called "La Folie des Dames Anglaises." In May of the same year three wedding garments, together with a large seizure of French lace, weighing @@ -10969,11 +10941,11 @@ Every paper tells how lace and ruffles of great value, sold on the previous day, had been seized in a hackney coach, between St. Paul's and Covent Garden; how a lady of rank was stopped in her chair and relieved of French lace to a large amount; or how a poor woman, carelessly picking a quartern -loaf as she walked along, was arrested, and the loaf found to contain £200 +loaf as she walked along, was arrested, and the loaf found to contain £200 worth of lace. Even ladies when walking had their black lace mittens cut off their hands, the officers supposing them to be of French manufacture; and lastly, a Turk's turban, of most Mameluke dimensions, was found, -containing a stuffing of £90 worth of lace. Books, {360}bottles, babies, +containing a stuffing of £90 worth of lace. Books, {360}bottles, babies, false-bottomed boxes, umbrellas, daily poured out their treasures to the lynx-eyed officers. @@ -10984,13 +10956,13 @@ redress, and the total exclusion of foreign goods. On receiving an answer that it was too late, they must wait till next Session, the assemblage declared that they would not be put off by promises; they broke the Duke of Bedford's palings on their way home, and threatened to burn the premises of -Mr. Carr, an obnoxious draper. At the next levée they once more assembled +Mr. Carr, an obnoxious draper. At the next levée they once more assembled before St. James's, but, finding the dresses of the nobility to be all of right English stuff, retired satisfied, without further clamour. The papers of the year 1764 teem with accounts of seizures made by the Customs. Among the confiscated effects of a person of the highest quality -are enumerated: "16 black à-la-mode cloaks, trimmed with lace; 44 French +are enumerated: "16 black à -la-mode cloaks, trimmed with lace; 44 French lace caps; 11 black laced handkerchiefs; 6 lace hats; 6 ditto aprons; 10 pairs of ruffles; 6 pairs of ladies' blonde ditto, and 25 gentlemen's." Eleven yards of edging and 6 pairs of ruffles are extracted from the pocket @@ -11011,7 +10983,7 @@ deceased clergyman was conveyed from the Low Countries for interment, the body of the corpse was found to have disappeared, and to have been replaced by Flanders lace of immense value--the head and hands and feet alone remaining. This discovery did not, however, prevent the High Sheriff of -Westminster from running--and that successfully--£6,000 worth of French +Westminster from running--and that successfully--£6,000 worth of French lace in the coffin of Bishop Atterbury,[1067] when his body was brought over from Calais for interment. @@ -11095,7 +11067,7 @@ ruffles.[1071] Mr. Damer, less known than his wife, the talented sculptor and friend of Horace Walpole, appeared three times a day in a new suit, and at his -death[1072] left a wardrobe which sold for £15,000.[1073] Well might it +death[1072] left a wardrobe which sold for £15,000.[1073] Well might it have been said of him-- "We sacrifice to dress, till household joys @@ -11166,7 +11138,7 @@ Fletcher testify:-- catacombs of the Capuchin convent.[1081] In Denmark,[1082] Sweden, and the north of Europe[1083] the custom was -general. The mass of lace in the tomb of the once fair Aurora Königsmarck, +general. The mass of lace in the tomb of the once fair Aurora Königsmarck, at Quedlenburg, would in itself be a fortune. She sleeps clad in the richest point d'Angleterre, Malines, and guipure. Setting aside the jewels which still glitter around her parchment form, no daughter of Pharaoh was @@ -11241,7 +11213,7 @@ thoroughly was the taste for lace at this epoch gone by, that in many families collections of great value were, at the death of their respective owners, handed over as rubbish to the waiting maid.[1090] Many ladies recollect in their youth to have tricked out their dolls in the finest -Alençon point, which would now sell at a price far beyond their purses. +Alençon point, which would now sell at a price far beyond their purses. Among the few who, in England, unseduced by frippery blonde, never neglected to preserve their collections entire, was the Duchess of {369}Gloucester, whose lace was esteemed among the most magnificent in @@ -11278,7 +11250,7 @@ was old seemed sufficient to satisfy all parties. They covered their dresses with odds and ends of all fabrics, without attention either to date or texture. One English lady appeared at a ball given by the French Embassy at Rome, boasting that she wore on the tablier of her dress every -description of lace, from point coupé of the fifteenth to Alençon of the +description of lace, from point coupé of the fifteenth to Alençon of the eighteenth century. The Count of Syracuse was accustomed to say: "The English ladies buy a scrap {370}of lace as a souvenir of every town they pass through, till they reach Naples, then sew it on their dresses, and @@ -11448,7 +11420,7 @@ the present age, gradually dying out--the lace-makers still held "Cattern's day,"[1110] November 25th, as the holiday of their craft, kept, they say, "in memory of good Queen Katherine, who, when the trade was dull, burnt all her lace and ordered new to be made. The ladies of the court {377}followed -her example, and the fabric once more revived." "Ainsi s'écrit l'histoire"; +her example, and the fabric once more revived." "Ainsi s'écrit l'histoire"; and this garbled version may rest on as much foundation as most of the folk-lore current throughout the provinces. @@ -11497,7 +11469,7 @@ accounts; and for twenty-four girls "to knit, spin, and make bone lace"; and here at Great Marlow the trade flourished, all English, and even French authors[1114] citing its "manufactures de dentelles au fuseau" as the staple produce of the town, and its surrounding villages, which sold lace, -however, they pronounce as "inférieure à celle de Flandres." +however, they pronounce as "inférieure à celle de Flandres." During the seventeenth century the trade continued to advance, and Fuller testifies to its once more prosperous condition in Bucks, towards the year @@ -11532,7 +11504,7 @@ assistance; both girls and boys are taught to make it, and some men when grown up follow no other employment; others, when out of work, find it a good resource, and can earn as much as the generality of day labourers. The lace made in Hanslape is from sixpence to two guineas a yard in value. It -is calculated that from £8000 to £9000 net profit is annually brought into +is calculated that from £8000 to £9000 net profit is annually brought into the parish by the lace manufacture." The bone lace of Stoney Stratford[1117] and Aylesbury are both quoted by @@ -11649,7 +11621,7 @@ needle on the net ground (Fig. 138). PLATE LXXXVI. [Illustration: ENGLISH, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. BOBBIN LACE.--End of nineteenth -century. Widths: 1¾, 5¼ and 2 in. +century. Widths: 1¾, 5¼ and 2 in. Photo by A. Dryden from a private collection.] @@ -11717,7 +11689,7 @@ cessation of the war caused it to be laid aside. One-third of the lace-workers of Northampton were {388}employed, previous to the introduction of machine-made net, in making quillings on the pillow. -During the Regency, a "point" lace, with the "cloth" or "toilé" on the +During the Regency, a "point" lace, with the "cloth" or "toilé" on the edge, for many years was in fashion, and, in compliment to the Prince, was named by the loyal manufacturers "Regency Point." It was a durable and handsome lace (Fig. 145). @@ -11931,7 +11903,7 @@ take to wearing Flanders lace." Only four years later Defoe writes of Blandford:--"This city is chiefly famous for making the finest bone lace in England, and where they showed us some so exquisitely fine as I think I never saw better in Flanders, France, -or Italy, and which, they said, they rated above £30 sterling a yard; but +or Italy, and which, they said, they rated above £30 sterling a yard; but it is most certain that they make exceeding rich lace in this county, such as no part of England can equal." In the edition of 1762, Defoe adds, "This was the state and trade of the town when I was there in my first journey; @@ -11939,9 +11911,9 @@ but on June 4, 1731, the whole town, except twenty-six houses, was consumed by fire, together with the church." Postlethwayt,[1132] Hutchins,[1133] Lysons, and Knight (_Imperial -Cyclopædia_) all tell the same story. Peuchet cites the Blandford laces as -"comparables à celles qu'on fait en Flandres (excepté Bruxelles), en -France, et même dans les Etats de Venise"; and Anderson mentions Blandford +Cyclopædia_) all tell the same story. Peuchet cites the Blandford laces as +"comparables à celles qu'on fait en Flandres (excepté Bruxelles), en +France, et même dans les Etats de Venise"; and Anderson mentions Blandford as "a well-built town, surpassing all England in fine lace." More reliance is to be placed on the two last-named authorities than the former, who have evidently copied Defoe without troubling themselves to inquire more deeply @@ -11975,7 +11947,7 @@ Argentan to execute, perhaps as a present to Queen Charlotte. "Since the Reformation the clothing trade declined," writes Defoe, of Sherborne. "Before 1700, making buttons, haberdashery wares, and bone laces employed a great many hands"; which said piece of information is repeated -word for word in the _Imperial Cyclopædia_. Other authors, such as +word for word in the _Imperial Cyclopædia_. Other authors, such as Anderson, declare, at a far later date, Sherborne to carry on a good trade in lace, and how, up to 1780, much blonde, both white and black, and of various colours, was made there, of which a supply was sent to all markets. @@ -12049,7 +12021,7 @@ to the high price of pins, the lace-makers, being within reach of the sea, made use of fish-bones, and thus pillow-lace became "bone-lace." The term "bobbin" came into use soon afterwards, but was not so universal as "bone"; it occurs in the Wardrobe Accounts and Royal inventories (where one entry -runs, "In ye shoppe, 4 oz. and ½ of Bobbing lace, 6s. 4d."). +runs, "In ye shoppe, 4 oz. and ½ of Bobbing lace, 6s. 4d."). Although the earliest known MS.[1139] giving an account of the different towns in Devon makes no mention of lace, we find from it that Mrs. @@ -12072,7 +12044,7 @@ been well established in the reign of James I. The inscription runs-- "Here lyeth y^e body of James Rodge, of Honinton, in y^e County of Devonshire (Bonelace Siller, hath given unto the poore of Honinton - P'ishe, the benyfitt of £100 for ever), who deceased y^e 27 of July A^o + P'ishe, the benyfitt of £100 for ever), who deceased y^e 27 of July A^o D^i 1617 AETATAE SVAE 50. Remember the Poore." There have been traditions that Rodge was a valet who accompanied his @@ -12087,7 +12059,7 @@ and flourished, for, including the above-mentioned Rodge, the three earliest bone lace makers of the seventeenth century on record all at their decease bequeathed sums of money for the benefit of their indigent townspeople, viz., Mrs. Minifie,[1142] before mentioned, who died in 1617, -and Thomas Humphrey, of Honiton, laceman, who willed in the year 1658 £20 +and Thomas Humphrey, of Honiton, laceman, who willed in the year 1658 £20 towards the purchase of certain tenements, a notice of which benefaction is recorded on a painted board above the gallery of the old parish church. @@ -12123,7 +12095,7 @@ the Wisdom of our Parliaments all along thought it the Interest of this Kingdom to prohibit its Importation from Foreign Parts.... This has revived the said Languishing Manufacture, and there are now above one hundred thousand in England who get their living by it, and earn by mere Labour -£500,000 a year, according to the lowest computation that can be made; and +£500,000 a year, according to the lowest computation that can be made; and the Persons employed on it are, for the most part, Women and children who have no other means of Subsistence. The English are now arrived to make as good lace in Fineness and all other respects as any that is wrought in @@ -12145,7 +12117,7 @@ employed."[1143] PLATE LXXXVIII. [Illustration: ENGLISH, DEVONSHIRE. REPRODUCTIONS OF OLD HONITON WITH THE -VRAI RÉSEAU.--Made under Mrs. Fowler's direction. Widths about 4 inches. +VRAI RÉSEAU.--Made under Mrs. Fowler's direction. Widths about 4 inches. Photo by A. Dryden.] @@ -12163,13 +12135,13 @@ which time the lace-making art was carried on in many small country places in Devon. They pillaged the lace-makers right and left, and, when quartered at Colyton,[1145] these unruly soldiers broke into the house of one William Bard, a dealer in bone lace, and there stole merchandise to the amount of -£325 17s. 9d.[1146] +£325 17s. 9d.[1146] "The valuable manufactures of lace, for which the inhabitants of Devon have long been conspicuous, are extending now from Exmouth to Torbay,"[1147] writes Defoe in 1724. {404}These must, however, have received a check as regards the export trade, for, says Savary, who wrote about the same date, -"Depuis qu'on imite les dentelles nommées point d'Angleterre en Flandres, +"Depuis qu'on imite les dentelles nommées point d'Angleterre en Flandres, Picardie et Champagne, on n'en tire plus de Londres pour la France." Great distress, too, is said to have existed among the Honiton lace-makers @@ -12233,7 +12205,7 @@ compete successfully against the foreigner with their home-made threads we find over and over again. They also altered the Brussels designs, and instead of the beautiful "fillings" and open-work stitches, substituted heavy guipure bars. By this period "cordonnet" or "gimp" had come into use -in Brussels lace. The "_vrai réseau_" or pillow-net ground, succeeded the +in Brussels lace. The "_vrai réseau_" or pillow-net ground, succeeded the "bride" about the end of the seventeenth century. This fashion enabled the flowers to be made separately and worked in with the net afterwards, or rather the net was worked into the flowers on the pillow. It was from the @@ -12241,7 +12213,7 @@ introduction of these separate sprigs that Honiton lace was able to compete with Brussels. The pattern in Fig. 153 is sewn on the plain pillow ground,[1151] which was very beautiful and regular, but very expensive. It was made of the finest thread procured from Antwerp, the market price of -which, in 1790, was £70 per pound,[1152] and an old lace-maker told the +which, in 1790, was £70 per pound,[1152] and an old lace-maker told the author her father {407}had, during the war, paid a hundred guineas a pound to the smugglers for this highly-prized and then almost unattainable commodity. @@ -12260,7 +12232,7 @@ guineas. MONUMENT OF LADY DODDRIDGE. + 1614. (Exeter Cathedral.)] The Flemish character of Fig. 158 is unmistakable. The {408}design of the -flower vase resembles those of the old Angleterre à bride, and in execution +flower vase resembles those of the old Angleterre à bride, and in execution this specimen may fairly warrant a comparison with the productions of Brabant. If really of English make, we should place its fabrication at the beginning of the eighteenth century, for it was long before the Devonshire @@ -12307,7 +12279,7 @@ progress of time, the wedding lace was required for Queen Victoria, it was with difficulty the necessary number of workers could be obtained to make it. It was undertaken by Miss Jane Bidney, who caused the work to be executed in the small fishing hamlet of Beer[1157] and its environs. The -dress cost £1,000. It was composed entirely of Honiton sprigs, connected on +dress cost £1,000. It was composed entirely of Honiton sprigs, connected on the pillow by a variety of open-work stitches; but the patterns were immediately destroyed, so it cannot be described. @@ -12320,7 +12292,7 @@ The application of Honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years almost entirely superseded by the modern guipure (Fig. 155). The sprigs, when made, are sewn upon a piece of blue paper, and then united either on the pillow by "cut-works" or "purlings," or else joined with the needle by -various stitches--lacet point, réseau, cut-work, and buttonhole stitch (the +various stitches--lacet point, réseau, cut-work, and buttonhole stitch (the most effective of all). Purling is made by the yard. The Honiton guipure has an original character almost unique. The large pieces surpass in richness and {410}perfection any lace of the same kind made in Belgium. The @@ -12340,7 +12312,7 @@ creditable to her ingenuity. In consequence of this movement, some gentlemen connected with the Bath and West of England Society[1159] proposed that an exhibition should take place at the Annual Agricultural Show, held at Clifton, of Honiton lace, "designs strictly after nature." -Prizes to the amount of £100 were given. The exhibition was most +Prizes to the amount of £100 were given. The exhibition was most successful. Queen Victoria expressed a desire that the articles exhibited should be sent to Windsor for her inspection, and graciously commanded that two flounces with a corresponding length of trimming lace should be made @@ -12394,7 +12366,7 @@ peasants, driven by want of employment from their own country, where lace was a great industry during the eighteenth century. The origin of "trolly" is from the Flemish "Trolle Kant," where the design was outlined with a thick thread, or, possibly, it may be derived from a corruption of the -French _toilé_, applied to distinguish a flat linen pattern from the ground +French _toilé_, applied to distinguish a flat linen pattern from the ground or _treille_, a general term for a net ground. It is now almost extinct in Devonshire, remaining in the hands of the midland counties,[1161] where it more properly belongs.[1162] @@ -12495,7 +12467,7 @@ while we have Mrs. Fowler and her school at Honiton, and Miss Radford at Sidmouth, it would be easier to say what the heads and hands of the Devon lace-workers could not do than to enumerate the many beautiful stitches and patterns they achieve; needlepoint or pillow, tape guipure or _vrai -réseau_--there are able fingers to suit all tastes.[1168] +réseau_--there are able fingers to suit all tastes.[1168] Mrs. Fowler, of Honiton, has made a spirited attempt to teach some young people.[1169] She employs women and girls all the year round, who work @@ -12576,15 +12548,15 @@ Notwithstanding these entries, it was not until the arrival of Mary Stuart in her northern dominions that lace in all its varieties appears. The inventory of the Queen's effects in 1567, printed by the Bannatyne Club, gives entries of passements, guimpeure d'or, and guimpeure d'argent,[1177] -with which her "robes de satin blanc et jaune" were "bordées" and -"chamarées." Each style of embroidery and lace is designated by its special +with which her "robes de satin blanc et jaune" were "bordées" and +"chamarées." Each style of embroidery and lace is designated by its special name. There is the "natte d'argent faite par entrelatz, passement d'or et -d'argent fait à jour, chamarré de bisette,"[1178] etc. +d'argent fait à jour, chamarré de bisette,"[1178] etc. The word dentelle, as told elsewhere,[1179] occurs but once. We have also alluded to the will made by the Queen previous to the birth of -James VI., and her bequest of her "ouvrages maschés."[1180] A relic of this +James VI., and her bequest of her "ouvrages maschés."[1180] A relic of this expression is yet found in the word "mawsch," or "masch," as the pinking of silk and muslin is termed in Scotland, an advertisement of which {420}accomplishment "done here" was seen a few years ago in the @@ -12597,19 +12569,19 @@ Elizabeth to her cousin previous to the birth of her godchild. Antiquaries assert the story to be a fable. Whether the lace be of the time or not, as a work of art it is of no credit to any country. -How Queen Mary, in her youth, was instructed in the arts of point coupé and +How Queen Mary, in her youth, was instructed in the arts of point coupé and lacis, according to the works of Vinciolo, has been already related.[1181] Of her talents as a needlewoman there is ample proof in the numerous beds, screens, etc., treasured as relics in the houses of the nobles where she -was held captive. She knitted head-dresses of gold "réseille," with cuffs +was held captive. She knitted head-dresses of gold "réseille," with cuffs and collars[1182] en suite,[1183] to say nothing of nightcaps, and sent them as presents to Elizabeth,[1184] all of which, we are told, the Queen received most graciously. Mary, in her early portraits as Dauphine of France, wears no thread lace. Much fine gold embroidered with passament -enriches her dresses; her sleeves are of gold rézeuil. In those of a later +enriches her dresses; her sleeves are of gold rézeuil. In those of a later date, like that taken when in Lochleven Castle, her veil is bordered with a narrow bone lace--as yet a rarity--may be one of the same noted in the -Inventory of 1578, as "Fyve litell vaills of wovin rasour (réseau) of +Inventory of 1578, as "Fyve litell vaills of wovin rasour (réseau) of threde, ane meekle twa of thame, passmentit with perle and black silk."[1185] @@ -12631,17 +12603,17 @@ wovin collars of threde, follow in quick succession. The cuttit out werk is mostly wrought in gold, silver, cramoisi, or black silk.[1189] The Queen's "towell claiths" are adorned in similar manner.[1190] -The Chartley Inventory of 1568[1191] is rich in works of point coupé and -rézeuil, in which are portrayed with the needle figures of birds, fishes, -beasts, and flowers, "couppés chascune en son carré." The Queen exercised +The Chartley Inventory of 1568[1191] is rich in works of point coupé and +rézeuil, in which are portrayed with the needle figures of birds, fishes, +beasts, and flowers, "couppés chascune en son carré." The Queen exercised much ingenuity in her labours, varying the pattern according to her taste. In the list are noted fifty-two specimens of flowers designed after nature, -"tirés au naturel;" 124 birds; as well as sixteen sorts of four-footed +"tirés au naturel;" 124 birds; as well as sixteen sorts of four-footed beasts, "entre lesquelles y ha un lyon assailant un sanglier;" with fifty-two fishes, all of {422}divers sorts--giving good proofs of the poor prisoner's industry. As to the designs after nature, with all respect to the memory of Queen Mary, the lions, cocks, and fishes of the sixteenth -century which have come under our notice, require a student of mediæval +century which have come under our notice, require a student of mediæval needlework rather than a naturalist, to pronounce upon their identity. James VI. of Scotland, reared in a hotbed of Calvinism, had not the means, @@ -12703,7 +12675,7 @@ tartan, or throw him neck and heels into the Highland loch. Montrose, we read, sent his lace ruffles to be starched and dressed before they were sewn on the embroidered sark he had made only to wear at his -execution. "Pearlin" was provided for him which cost £10 an ell. +execution. "Pearlin" was provided for him which cost £10 an ell. The close-fitting velvet cap, enriched with lace, appears in the seventeenth century to have been adopted by the lawyers of the Scotch @@ -12881,9 +12853,9 @@ solid advantage to those whose laudable industry contributes to their own support. {430}"For the best imitation of Dresden work, or a pair of men's ruffles, a -prize of £5 5s. +prize of £5 5s. -"For the best bone lace, not under twenty yards, £5 5s. The gainers of +"For the best bone lace, not under twenty yards, £5 5s. The gainers of these two best articles may have the money or a gold medal, at their option." @@ -12924,8 +12896,8 @@ In the journals of the day we have constant advertisements, informing the public of the advantages to be gained by the useful arts imparted to their offspring in their establishments, inserted by ladies of gentle blood--for the Scotchwomen of the last century no more disdained to employ themselves -in the training of youth than does now a French dame de qualité to place -herself at the head of the Sacré-Coeur, or some other convent devoted to +in the training of youth than does now a French dame de qualité to place +herself at the head of the Sacré-Coeur, or some other convent devoted to educational purposes.[1209] [Illustration: Fig. 161. @@ -12934,7 +12906,7 @@ HAMILTON.] The entry of all foreign laces was excluded by law. The {432}Scotch nation of the Hanoverian persuasion were wrath at the frivolity of the Jacobite -party. "£400,000 have been sent out of the country during the last year," +party. "£400,000 have been sent out of the country during the last year," writes the _Edinburgh Advertiser_ of 1764, "to support our exiled countrymen in France, where they learn nothing but folly and extravagance." English laces were not included in the prohibition. In 1763, that "neat @@ -12944,17 +12916,17 @@ years later, black silk lace and guipure are added to the stock, "mennuet," and very cheap bone lace.[1210] Great efforts, and with success, were made for the improvement of the -thread manufacture, for the purchase of which article at Lille £200,000 +thread manufacture, for the purchase of which article at Lille £200,000 were annually sent from Scotland to France. Badly-spun yarn was seized and burned by the stamp master; of this we have frequent mention.[1211] -Peuchet, speaking of Scotland, says:--"Il s'est formé près d'Edinbourg une -manufacture de fil de dentelle. On prétend que le fil de cette manufacture -sert à faire des dentelles qui non-seulement égalent en beauté celles qui -sont fabriquées avec le fil de l'étranger, mais encore les surpassent en -durée. Cet avantage serait d'autant plus grand que l'importation de ce fil -de l'étranger occasionne aux habitans de ce royaume une perte annuelle de -£100,000."[1212] +Peuchet, speaking of Scotland, says:--"Il s'est formé près d'Edinbourg une +manufacture de fil de dentelle. On prétend que le fil de cette manufacture +sert à faire des dentelles qui non-seulement égalent en beauté celles qui +sont fabriquées avec le fil de l'étranger, mais encore les surpassent en +durée. Cet avantage serait d'autant plus grand que l'importation de ce fil +de l'étranger occasionne aux habitans de ce royaume une perte annuelle de +£100,000."[1212] Whether about the year 1775 any change had taken place in the legislation of the customs of Scotland, and they had become regulated by English law, @@ -12987,7 +12959,7 @@ too easily affected by the caprices of fashion.[1215] {434}Be that as it may, the manufacture of thread for lace alone employed five hundred machines, each machine occupying thirty-six persons: the value -of the thread produced annually £175,000. Loch adds, that in consequence of +of the thread produced annually £175,000. Loch adds, that in consequence of the cheapness of provisions, Scotland, as a country, is better adapted to lace-making than England. In consequence of Loch's remarks, his Majesty's Board of Trustees for the Fisheries and Manufactures, after asking a number @@ -13075,7 +13047,7 @@ PLATE XC. [Illustration: IRISH, YOUGHAL.--Needle-point fan mount, made at the Presentation Convent, Youghal, for H.R.H. Princess Maud of Wales on her -marriage, 1896. Width in centre 8½ in. +marriage, 1896. Width in centre 8½ in. Photo in Victoria and Albert Museum.] @@ -13085,8 +13057,8 @@ _To face page 436._ resolution:-- "That the ladies wear Irish manufactures. There is brought annually into -this kingdom near £90,000 worth of silk, whereof the greater part is -manufactured; £30,000 more is expended in muslin, holland, cambric, and +this kingdom near £90,000 worth of silk, whereof the greater part is +manufactured; £30,000 more is expended in muslin, holland, cambric, and calico. What the price of lace amounts to is not easy to be collected from the Custom-house book, being a kind of goods that, taking up little room, is easily run; but, considering the prodigious price of a woman's @@ -13099,29 +13071,29 @@ are lost, and we are unable to ascertain the precise period at which they took upon themselves the encouragement of the bone lace trade in Ireland. From their _Transactions_ we learn that, so early as the year 1743, the annual value of the bone lace manufactured by the children of the -workhouses of the city of Dublin amounted to £164 14s. 10½d.[1222] In -consequence of this success, the society ordain that £34 2s. 6d. be given +workhouses of the city of Dublin amounted to £164 14s. 10½d.[1222] In +consequence of this success, the society ordain that £34 2s. 6d. be given to the Lady Arabella Denny to distribute among the children, for their encouragement in making bone lace. Indeed, to such a pitch were the productions of the needle already brought in Ireland, that in the same year, 1743, the Dublin Society gave Robert Baker, of Rollin Street, Dublin, -a prize of £10 for his imitation of Brussels lace ruffles, which are +a prize of £10 for his imitation of Brussels lace ruffles, which are described as being most exquisite both in design and workmanship. This Brussels lace of Irish growth was much prized by the patriots.[1223] From this time the Dublin Society acted under their good genius, the Lady Arabella Denny. The prizes they awarded were liberal, and success attended their efforts. -In 1755 we find a prize of £2 15s. 6d. awarded to {438}Susanna Hunt, of +In 1755 we find a prize of £2 15s. 6d. awarded to {438}Susanna Hunt, of Fishamble Street, aged eleven, for a piece of lace most extraordinarily well wrought. Miss Elinor Brereton, of Raheenduff, Queen's County, for the -best imitation of Brussels lace with the needle, £7. On the same occasion -Miss Martha M'Cullow, of Cork Bridge, gains the prize of £5 for "Dresden -point." Miss Mary Gibson has £2 for "Cheyne Lace,"[1224] of which we have +best imitation of Brussels lace with the needle, £7. On the same occasion +Miss Martha M'Cullow, of Cork Bridge, gains the prize of £5 for "Dresden +point." Miss Mary Gibson has £2 for "Cheyne Lace,"[1224] of which we have scarcely heard mention since the days of Queen Elizabeth. Bone lace had never in any quantity been imported from England. In 1703 but -2,333 yards, valuing only £116 13s., or 1s. per yard, passed through the +2,333 yards, valuing only £116 13s., or 1s. per yard, passed through the Irish Custom House. Ireland, like the rest of the United Kingdom, received her points either from France or Flanders. @@ -13136,15 +13108,15 @@ During the two succeeding years the lace of various kinds exhibited by the workhouse children was greatly approved of, and the thanks of the Society offered to the Lady Arabella Denny.[1225] -Prizes given to the children, to the amount of £34 2s. 6d.; the same for +Prizes given to the children, to the amount of £34 2s. 6d.; the same for bone lace made by other manufacturers; and one half the sum is also to be applied to "thread lace made with knitting needles." A certain Mrs. Rachel Armstrong, of Inistioge (Co. Kilkenny), is also -awarded a prize of £11 7s. 6d. "for having caused a considerable quantity +awarded a prize of £11 7s. 6d. "for having caused a considerable quantity of bone lace to be made by girls whom she has instructed and employed in the work." Among the premiums granted to "poor gentlewomen" we find: To -Miss Jane Knox, for an apron of elegant pattern and curiously wrought, £6 +Miss Jane Knox, for an apron of elegant pattern and curiously wrought, £6 16s. 6d., and silver medals to two ladies who, we suppose, are above {439}receiving money as a reward. The Society recommend that the bone lace made be exposed for sale in the warehouses of the Irish Silk Company. In @@ -13158,17 +13130,17 @@ how "a considerable quantity of bone lace of extraordinary fineness and elegance of pattern, made at Castlebar in the Co. of Mayo, being produced to the Society, and it appearing that the manufacture of bone lace was founded, and is at present supported there by Lady Bingham, it was ordered -that the sum of £25 be paid into the hands of her ladyship, to be disposed +that the sum of £25 be paid into the hands of her ladyship, to be disposed of in such encouragements as she shall judge will most effectually conduce to the carrying on and improvement of the said manufacture at Castlebar." The thanks of the Society are at the same time voted to her ladyship. In consequence of the large quantity fabricated, after the lapse of a few years the Society, in 1773, found themselves compelled to put some bounds to their liberality. No prizes are given for any lace exhibited at less -than 11s. 4½d. the yard, and that only to those not resident in the city of +than 11s. 4½d. the yard, and that only to those not resident in the city of Dublin or within five miles of it. Twenty per cent. will be given on the -value of the lace, provided it shall not exceed £500 in value. The Society -do not, however, withdraw the annual premium of £30 for the products of the +value of the lace, provided it shall not exceed £500 in value. The Society +do not, however, withdraw the annual premium of £30 for the products of the "famishing children" of the city of Dublin workhouse,[1226] always directed by the indefatigable Lady Arabella Denny.[1227] From that period we hear no more of the Dublin Society and its prizes awarded for point, Dresden, @@ -13182,7 +13154,7 @@ foreign parts. {440}And now for forty years and more history is silent on the subject of lace-making by the "famishing children" of the Emerald Isle.[1228] -No existing Irish lace industry is as old as the appliqué lace which has +No existing Irish lace industry is as old as the appliqué lace which has been made in the neighbourhood of Carrickmacross since the year 1820. The process of its manufacture is simple enough, for the pattern is cut from cambric and applied to net with point stitches. Many accounts have been @@ -13273,9 +13245,9 @@ organisation. PLATE XCI. -[Illustration: IRISH, CARRICKMACROSS. INSERTION AND BORDER OF APPLIQUÉ +[Illustration: IRISH, CARRICKMACROSS. INSERTION AND BORDER OF APPLIQUÉ LACE, made at the Bath and Shirley Schools. End of nineteenth century. -Width of insertion, 6 in.; border, 9¼ in. +Width of insertion, 6 in.; border, 9¼ in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] @@ -13309,7 +13281,7 @@ Convent of the Poor Clares in 1861. The work is {444}based upon the same lines, though the Kenmare work claims as its speciality that it is entirely worked in linen thread, while at Youghal cotton is occasionally used. The Convent of the Poor Clares devote themselves chiefly to the production of -flat point, appliqué, and guipure laces. Many other convents and lace +flat point, appliqué, and guipure laces. Many other convents and lace centres in Ireland have had their teachers from Youghal and Kenmare. Flat point has been made for fifty years under the supervision of the Carmelite convent at New Ross, Co. Wexford, though the workers are now better known @@ -13339,7 +13311,7 @@ sweeps and curves, nor the branching stems. Irish crochet is another widespread national industry. Its main centres have been Cork in the South and Monaghan in the North of Ireland. The industry can be traced as far back as 1845, when the sisters of the -Ursuline convent at Blackrock, Co. Cork, received £90 for the work done by +Ursuline convent at Blackrock, Co. Cork, received £90 for the work done by the poor children in their schools. It may indeed be said that {445}the growth of this great industry spread from this centre; so much so, that within the space of a few years it formed part of the educational system of @@ -13478,7 +13450,7 @@ and a half in width.[1245] In 1811 that vandal association called the Luddites[1246] entered his manufactory and destroyed twenty-seven of his machines, of the value of -£8,000. Indignant at their conduct he removed to Tiverton,[1247] in +£8,000. Indignant at their conduct he removed to Tiverton,[1247] in Devonshire. {450}In 1818 the first power machines were put to work, and the year 1823 @@ -13519,7 +13491,7 @@ daily progressing in England, on whom she was dependent for stockings and for net. In 1778 Caillen attempted a kind of net "tricot dentelle," for which he -obtained a gratuity from the Academy of £40, but his method did not +obtained a gratuity from the Academy of £40, but his method did not succeed; it was, like the first efforts of our countrymen, only knitting. In 1784 Louis XVI. sent the Duke de Liancourt to England to study the @@ -13527,13 +13499,13 @@ improvements in the stocking and net machinery, and to bring back a frame. He was accompanied by Rhumbolt, who worked in a manufactory at Nottingham, and having acquired the art, returned to France. Monarchy had fallen, but the French Republic, 1793-4, granted Rhumbolt the sum of 110,000 francs -(£4,400). The machine he brought with him was the point net.[1252] +(£4,400). The machine he brought with him was the point net.[1252] The cessation of all commercial intercourse prevented France from keeping pace with the improvements making in England; yet, singularly enough, at the beginning of the nineteenth century more net was manufactured in France than in England. At the time of the Peace of Amiens (1802) there were 2,000 -frames in Lyons and Nîmes, while there were scarcely 1,200 in England; but +frames in Lyons and Nîmes, while there were scarcely 1,200 in England; but the superiority of the English net was incontestable, so, to protect the national manufacture, Napoleon prohibited the importation. This of course increased its demand; the net was in request in proportion as it was @@ -13545,7 +13517,7 @@ Paris to make arrangements for smuggling it over, when the war broke out, and he was detained. Napoleon proposed that he should set up a machine in France; but he preferred continuing his illicit trade, which he carried on with great success until 1809, when his own agent informed against him, his -goods were seized and burned, and having in one seizure lost £60,000 +goods were seized and burned, and having in one seizure lost £60,000 (1,500,000 fr.), he was completely ruined, and fled to England.[1253] The French manufacturers took out various patents for the improvement of @@ -13562,7 +13534,7 @@ vigilance, and, in 1815, to import a machine to Valenciennes, whence he removed it to Douai, where he entered into partnership with M. Thomassin. In 1816 they produced the first bobbin net dress made in France. It was embroidered by hand by a workwoman of Douai, and presented by the makers to -the Duchesse d'Angoulême. About the end of the year 1816 James Clark +the Duchesse d'Angoulême. About the end of the year 1816 James Clark introduced a machine into Calais, which he passed in pieces by means of some French sailors. These two were the first bobbin net machines set up in France. @@ -13579,7 +13551,7 @@ have a very limited trade compared with Saint-Pierre and Lyons. At Lyons silk net is mostly made.[1255] Dating from 1791, various patents have been taken out for its manufacture. These silk nets were embroidered -at Condrieu (Rhône), and were (the black especially for veils and mantles) +at Condrieu (Rhône), and were (the black especially for veils and mantles) much esteemed, particularly in Spain. In 1825 the "tulle bobine grenadine," black and white, was brought out by @@ -13599,14 +13571,14 @@ succeeded in excelling the English manufacture; and this net, universally known as "Brussels net," has nearly superseded the expensive pillow ground, and has thereby materially decreased the price of Brussels lace. It is made of English cotton, stated, in the specimens exhibited in 1867, as costing -£44 per pound. +£44 per pound. {454}MACHINERY LACE. - "Qui sait si le métier à tulle ne sera pas un jour, en quelque sorte, un - vrai coussin de dentellière, et les bobines de véritables fuseaux - manoeuvrés par des mains mécaniques."--Aubry, in 1851. + "Qui sait si le métier à tulle ne sera pas un jour, en quelque sorte, un + vrai coussin de dentellière, et les bobines de véritables fuseaux + manoeuvrés par des mains mécaniques."--Aubry, in 1851. If England boasts the invention of bobbin net, to France must be assigned the application of the Jacquard system to the net-frame, and consequently @@ -13629,14 +13601,14 @@ for making patterned net and embroidered blondes. This suggested the possibility of applying the Jacquard cards to making lace, and in 1836 to 1838 Mr. Ferguson,[1258] by applying it to the circular bobbin net frame, brought out the black silk net called "dentelle de Cambrai," an imitation -of Chantilly. The pattern was woven by the machine, the brodé or relief +of Chantilly. The pattern was woven by the machine, the brodé or relief "run in." Various patents[1259] were immediately taken out in England and France. Nottingham and Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais rival {455}each other in the variety of their productions. At the International Exhibition of 1867 Nottingham exhibited Spanish laces, most faithful copies of the costly pillow-made -Barcelona; imitations of Mechlin, the brodé and picot executed by hand; +Barcelona; imitations of Mechlin, the brodé and picot executed by hand; Brussels needle-point; Caen blondes, and Valenciennes rivalling those of Calais; also Cluny and the black laces of Chantilly and Mirecourt. @@ -13654,12 +13626,12 @@ lace-making process than that of needle-point. The machine continues to twist any desired threads around one another. In pillow lace-making, besides twisting, we have plaiting, and this plaiting has not been reproduced by the majority of lace machines. Quite recently, however, a -French machine, called the 'Dentellière,' has been invented to do the +French machine, called the 'Dentellière,' has been invented to do the plaiting. A description of this machine has been published in _La Nature_ (March 3rd, 1881). "Whilst the ordinary lace-making machine belongs to the family of weaving -machines, the Dentellière more nearly resembles the pillow of a lace-worker +machines, the Dentellière more nearly resembles the pillow of a lace-worker with the threads arranged over the pillow. In general appearance it looks something like a large semicircular frame-work of iron--with thousands of threads from the outer semicircle converging to the centre, representing @@ -13675,7 +13647,7 @@ productions of the frame never possess the touch, the finish, or the beauty of the laces made by hand. The invention of machine-made lace has this peculiarity--it has not diminished the demand for the finer fabrics of the pillow and the needle. On the contrary, the rich have sought more eagerly -than ever the exquisite works of Brussels and Alençon, since machinery has +than ever the exquisite works of Brussels and Alençon, since machinery has brought the wearing of lace within the reach of all classes of society. [Illustration: Fig. 163. @@ -13711,7 +13683,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Eyn new kunstlich boich, dair yn. C. vnd. xxxviij. figuren, monster ad' stalen befonden, wie man na der rechter art, Lauffer werck, Spansche - stich, mit der nälen, vort vp der Ramen, vnd vp der laden, borden + stich, mit der nälen, vort vp der Ramen, vnd vp der laden, borden wirckenn sall, wilche stalen all etzo samen verbessert synt, vnd vyl kunstlicher gemacht, d[=a] dye eirsten, &c. Sere nutzlich allen wapen sticker, frauwen, ionfferen, vnd met ger, dair uns solch kunst lichtlich @@ -13728,7 +13700,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Cologne in chief; supporters, a lion and a griffin. Below, "O Foelix Colonia. 1527." - The patterns consist of mediæval and arabesque borders, alphabets, + The patterns consist of mediæval and arabesque borders, alphabets, etc., some on white, others on black grounds. Some with counted stitches. @@ -13790,8 +13762,8 @@ Plants, Paris. hearts and scrolls; hearts transfixed, one with an arrow, another with a sword, a third torn open by two hands, motto on the scroll:-- - "La virtù, al huomo sempre li resta - Nè morte nol pò privar di questa." + "La virtù, al huomo sempre li resta + Nè morte nol pò privar di questa." On the other page hearts transfixed by two arrows, with two eyes above: "Occhi piangete accompagnete il core. Inclita virtus." Then follow six @@ -13843,7 +13815,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Esemplario di lavori: dove le tenere fanciulle & altre donne nobile potranno facilment imparare il modo & ordine di lavorare, cusire, racamare, & finalmente far tutte quelle gentillezze & lodevoli opere, le - quali pò fare una donna virtuosa con laco in {462}mano, con li suoi + quali pò fare una donna virtuosa con laco in {462}mano, con li suoi compasse & misure. Vinezia, per Nicolo D'Aristotile detto Zoppino MDXXIX. 8vo.[1269] 46 plates. @@ -13882,11 +13854,11 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1534. _Augsburg. Schartzemberger._] - Ain New Formbüchlin bin ich gnandt - Allen Künstlern noch unbekandt + Ain New Formbüchlin bin ich gnandt + Allen Künstlern noch unbekandt Sih mich (lieber kauffer) recht an, Findst drefftlich in diser kunff stan - Sch[=o]n gschnierlet, geböglet, auf gladt, + Sch[=o]n gschnierlet, geböglet, auf gladt, Und gold, auch sch[=o]n von premen stadt, Es gibt dir ain prem unb ain kledyt. Wenn mans recht aussainander schneydt, @@ -13928,11 +13900,11 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D. Antwerp. W. Vorsterman._] A neawe treatys: as c[=o]cernynge the excellency of the nedle worcke - spânisshe stitche and weavynge in the frame, very necessary to al theym + spânisshe stitche and weavynge in the frame, very necessary to al theym wiche desyre the perfect knowledge of seamstry, quiltinge and brodry - worke, côteinynge an cxxxviij figures or tables, so playnli made & set - tout in portrature, the whiche is difficyll; and natôly for crafts m[=e] - but also for gentlewem[=e] & and iôge damosels that therein may obtayne + worke, côteinynge an cxxxviij figures or tables, so playnli made & set + tout in portrature, the whiche is difficyll; and natôly for crafts m[=e] + but also for gentlewem[=e] & and iôge damosels that therein may obtayne greater conynge delyte and pleasure. These books be to sell at Andwarp in the golden Unycorne at Will[=m] @@ -13947,7 +13919,7 @@ Plants, Paris. P. 1, dorso: Woodcut of a woman at work and a man sitting by her side. - Patterns mediæval, small black squares, arabesques, etc. + Patterns mediæval, small black squares, arabesques, etc. Vorsterman worked from 1514 to 1542.[1274] @@ -13972,7 +13944,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1544. _Venice._] Il Specchio di pensiere (_sic_), delle belle donne dove si vede varie - sorti di punti, cioè, punti tagliati, gropposi, &c. Venetia, 1544. + sorti di punti, cioè, punti tagliati, gropposi, &c. Venetia, 1544. In 4to.[1277] @@ -13990,7 +13962,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1546. _Paris. Gormont._] - Le livre de moresques, tres utile et necessaire à tous orfevres, + Le livre de moresques, tres utile et necessaire à tous orfevres, tailleurs, graveurs, painctres, tapissiers, brodeurs, lingieres et femmes qui besongnent de l'aiguille. Paris. Gormont, 1546. Fig. en bois.[1279] @@ -14007,7 +13979,7 @@ Plants, Paris. (At the end.) - Imprimé à Lyon par Piarre de saincte Lucie, dict le Prince. 1549. + Imprimé à Lyon par Piarre de saincte Lucie, dict le Prince. 1549. 8vo, 12 ff., 21 plates. @@ -14015,7 +13987,7 @@ Plants, Paris. people at work. Below, two women sitting at frames; above, two others; and between, a man with a frame in his hand. On each side a shield, one with crowned heart, on the other a lion, three fleurs de lys in chief. - Patterns mediæval. At the end, the device of the printer, a mountain, + Patterns mediæval. At the end, the device of the printer, a mountain, on the top of which is a city against which a youth is placing his hand: motto, "Spero." At the foot of the mountain a cavern in which is seated a Fury. This device is engraved No. 616 in Silvestre, who gives @@ -14035,7 +14007,7 @@ Plants, Paris. 8vo, 24 ff., 44 plates. Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters; the same shields as the - preceding; two women at work. Patterns mediæval. At the end the same + preceding; two women at work. Patterns mediæval. At the end the same device. The copy of the Arsenal is a different impression. Instead of @@ -14066,7 +14038,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Imprimees a Lyon, par Pierre de Saincte Lucie, dict le Prince, pres nostre Dame de Confort.[1282] - 8vo, 16 ff., 31 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Patterns mediæval. + 8vo, 16 ff., 31 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Patterns mediæval. The copy at the Arsenal is a later impression. "On les vend a Lyon, par Pierre de saincte Lucie, en la maison du deffunct Prince, pres," etc. @@ -14081,7 +14053,7 @@ Plants, Paris. de Lyon. Item plusieurs autres beaulx Patrons nouveaulx, qui out este inventez par Jeban Mayol Carme de Lyon. - On les vend à Lyon, chez le Prince.[1283] + On les vend à Lyon, chez le Prince.[1283] {466}Small 8vo, 6 ff., 85 plates. Copy at the Arsenal has 12 ff. @@ -14099,7 +14071,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Ce livre est plaisant et utile A gens qui besongnent de leguille - Pour comprendre legèrement + Pour comprendre legèrement Damoyselle bourgoyse ou fille Femmes qui out l'esperit agille Ne scauroint faillir nullement @@ -14111,7 +14083,7 @@ Plants, Paris. En Thoulouse a prins sa naissance. Mise il a son intelligence A lamender subtillement - Taillé il est totallement + Taillé il est totallement Par Jehan coste de rue merciere A Lyon et consequemment Quatre vingtz fassons a vrayement @@ -14119,7 +14091,7 @@ Plants, Paris. 28 ff., 27 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Dedication to the Reader, in which it states the book is for the profit of "tant hommes que - femmes." Patterns mediæval. At the end of the Preface, "Finis coronat + femmes." Patterns mediæval. At the end of the Preface, "Finis coronat opus." @@ -14128,7 +14100,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._] Esemplario di lavori: che insegna alle d[=o]ne il modo e ordine di - lavorare: cusire: e racámare: e finalm[=e]te far tutte [=q]lle opere + lavorare: cusire: e racámare: e finalm[=e]te far tutte [=q]lle opere degne di memoria: lequale po fare una donna virtuosa con laco in mano. Et uno documento che insegna al c[=o]pratore accio sia ben servito.[1285] @@ -14146,7 +14118,7 @@ Plants, Paris. possesses an edition of the same date. Mr. E. Arnold has also a copy with the same date. - The patterns are mediæval, on black grounds, with counted stitches, a + The patterns are mediæval, on black grounds, with counted stitches, a large flower pot, mermaid, Paschal lamb, and a double plate representing Orpheus playing to the beasts. @@ -14217,7 +14189,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D. A. Paganino._] Libro questo di rechami per el quale se impara in diversi modi l'ordine e - il modo de recamare, cosa non mai più fatta n' è stata mostrata. + il modo de recamare, cosa non mai più fatta n' è stata mostrata. By Alessandro Paganino.[1289] @@ -14230,10 +14202,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D. Paris Vve. Ruelle._] Patrons pour Brodeurs, Lingieres, Massons, Verriers, et autres gens - d'esprit. A Paris. Pour la Veuve Jean Ruelle, rue S. Jacques, à + d'esprit. A Paris. Pour la Veuve Jean Ruelle, rue S. Jacques, à l'enseigne Sainct Nicolas.[1290] - 4to, 23 ff., 32 plates of mediæval designs. Ornamented title-page. + 4to, 23 ff., 32 plates of mediæval designs. Ornamented title-page. 26. @@ -14241,7 +14213,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1548. _Venice. M. Pagan._] Il specchio di pensieri delle belle et virtudiose donne, dove si vede - varie sorti di Punti, cioè punti tagliati, punti gropposi, punti in rede, + varie sorti di Punti, cioè punti tagliati, punti gropposi, punti in rede, et punti in Stuora. MDXLVIII. Stamp. in Venetia, per Mathio Pagan in frezzaria, in le case nove Tien per insegna la fede.[1291] @@ -14301,7 +14273,7 @@ Plants, Paris. P. 1, dorso. Dedication of the author, "Alla Magnifica & Illustre Signora Isabella Contessa Canossa," whose "Immortal Triompho" is represented in the above woodcut. Fra Hieronimo speaks of preparing - "più alte e divine imprese." + "più alte e divine imprese." Then follow three pages of verses in terzette, and p. 3, dorso, the impresa of the printer, a lion rampant, holding a sword in his fore @@ -14323,10 +14295,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1556. _Strasburg. H. Hoffman._] - New Modelbüch, allen Nägerin, unnd Sydenstickern sehr nutzlich zü - branchë, vor nye in Druck aussgangen durch Hans Hoffman, Burger und + New Modelbüch, allen Nägerin, unnd Sydenstickern sehr nutzlich zü + branchë, vor nye in Druck aussgangen durch Hans Hoffman, Burger und formschneider zu Strassburg. At the end, Zu Strassburg Gedruckt am - Kommarckt durch Jacob Frölich. 1556. 4to.[1296] + Kommarckt durch Jacob Frölich. 1556. 4to.[1296] 4to. A to G in fours. (28 leaves.) @@ -14340,10 +14312,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D. Zurich. C. Froschover._] - Nüw Modelbüch, allerley gattungen Däntelschnür, so diser zyt in hoch - Tütschlanden geng und brüchig sind, zu underricht jren Leertöchteren unnd - allen anderen schurwirckeren zu Zurych {470}und wo die sind, yetz nüwlich - zübereit, und erstmals in truch verfergket durch R. M.[1297] + Nüw Modelbüch, allerley gattungen Däntelschnür, so diser zyt in hoch + Tütschlanden geng und brüchig sind, zu underricht jren Leertöchteren unnd + allen anderen schurwirckeren zu Zurych {470}und wo die sind, yetz nüwlich + zübereit, und erstmals in truch verfergket durch R. M.[1297] No place or date, but as appears, both from the title and preface, to be printed at Zurich, by Christopher Froschover. The date probably from @@ -14357,7 +14329,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D. Frankfort._] - Modelbüch Welscher, Ober und Niderlandischer Arbait. Getruckt zü + Modelbüch Welscher, Ober und Niderlandischer Arbait. Getruckt zü Franckfort. No date, but probably at least as early as 1530. 4to. Signatures A to D @@ -14370,7 +14342,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1537. _Frankfort. C. Egenolffs._] - Modelbüch, von erhabener unnd flacher Arbait, Auff der Ramen, Laden, und + Modelbüch, von erhabener unnd flacher Arbait, Auff der Ramen, Laden, und nach der Zale. Getruckt zu Franckfort, Bei Christian Egenolffs, Erben. @@ -14383,11 +14355,11 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1571. _Frankfort on the Mayn. N. Baseus._] - New Modelbüch. + New Modelbüch. Von allerhandt Art, Nehens und Stickens, jetzt mit viellerley Welscher - Arbeyt, Mödel und Stahlen, allen Steinmetzen, Seidenstickern und Neterin, - sehr nützlich und kunstlich, von newem zugericht. + Arbeyt, Mödel und Stahlen, allen Steinmetzen, Seidenstickern und Neterin, + sehr nützlich und kunstlich, von newem zugericht. Getruckt zu Frankfurt am Mayn, 1571. @@ -14399,7 +14371,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1568. _Frankfort on the Mayn. N. Baseus._] - Das new Modelbüch, &c. + Das new Modelbüch, &c. Franckfurt am Mayn, 1568, 4to. Printer, Nicholas Baseus, ff. 40. @@ -14408,7 +14380,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1569. _Frankfort on the Mayn._] - Modelbüch; Zweiter Theil: Franckfurt am Mayn, 1569. + Modelbüch; Zweiter Theil: Franckfurt am Mayn, 1569. 4to, ff. 44. Nos. 36 and 37 are cited by the Marquis d'Adda. @@ -14428,7 +14400,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D. Venice._] Il Monte. Opera nova di recami intitolata il monte, nella quale si - ritrova varie, & diverse sorti di mostre, di punti in aiere, à fogliami. + ritrova varie, & diverse sorti di mostre, di punti in aiere, à fogliami. Dove le belle & virtuose Donne protranno fare ogni sorte di lavoro, accommodate alle vera forma misura & grandezza, che debbono essere ne mai piu per l'adietro da alcuno vedute. Opera non men bella che utile, & @@ -14444,12 +14416,12 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1559. _Venice. G. A. Bindoni._] - Il Monte (libro secondo) Opera dove ogni bella donna potrà fare ogni - sorte di lavori cioè colari, fazzoletti, maneghetti, avertadure + Il Monte (libro secondo) Opera dove ogni bella donna potrà fare ogni + sorte di lavori cioè colari, fazzoletti, maneghetti, avertadure (berthes), &c., in Venetia, 1560.[1300] Printer's mark and motto as No. 39: afterwards the dedication dated - 1559, "à Vittoria da Cordova Gio. Ant. Bindoni," in which he states "Ho + 1559, "à Vittoria da Cordova Gio. Ant. Bindoni," in which he states "Ho preso arditamente di presentarvi questo secondo Monte." 4to. ff. 16. @@ -14458,7 +14430,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1558. _Venice._] Bellezze de recami et dessegni opera novo non men bella che utile, e - necessaria et non più veduta in luce. Venezia, 1558.[1301] + necessaria et non più veduta in luce. Venezia, 1558.[1301] Ob. 4to. 20 plates of patterns. @@ -14478,7 +14450,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1559. _Venice._] - Trionfo di Virtù Libro novo da cucir, con fogliami, ponti a fili, ponti + Trionfo di Virtù Libro novo da cucir, con fogliami, ponti a fili, ponti cruciati, &c. Venezia, 1559.[1303] 16 plates. @@ -14542,9 +14514,9 @@ Plants, Paris. Le Pompe, opera nova nella quale si ritrovano varie, & diverse sorti di mostre, per poter far Cordelle over Bindelle, d' Oro, di Seta, di Filo, overo di altra cosa di Dove le belle et virtuose donne potranno fare ogni - sorte di lavoro, cioè merli di diverse sorte, Cavezzi, Colari, + sorte di lavoro, cioè merli di diverse sorte, Cavezzi, Colari, Maneghetti, & tutte quelle cose {473}che le piaceranno. Opera non men - bella, che utile, & necessaria. E non più veduta in luce. 1559.[1307] + bella, che utile, & necessaria. E non più veduta in luce. 1559.[1307] Below, the same impresa of the eagle, as in "Il Monte," Nos. 39 and 40. @@ -14558,7 +14530,7 @@ Plants, Paris. LE POMPE, 1559.] - In the Cat. d'Estrées is noted, "Le Pompe, Opera nella quale si + In the Cat. d'Estrées is noted, "Le Pompe, Opera nella quale si retrovano diverse sorti di mostse per poter far cordelle, Bindelle, d'oro di seta, di filo. 1559, fig." Probably the same work. @@ -14570,9 +14542,9 @@ Plants, Paris. Le Pompe, Libro secondo. Opera nuova nella quale si ritrovana varie e diverse sorti di Mostre, per poter fare Cordelle, ovver Bindelle, d'Oro, di Seta, di Filo, ovvero di altra cosa. Dove {474}le belle & virtuose - Donne potranno far ogni sorte di lavoro, coèi Merli di diverse sorte, + Donne potranno far ogni sorte di lavoro, coèi Merli di diverse sorte, Cavezzi, Colari, Maneghetti & tutte quelle cose che li piaceno. Opera hon - men bello che utile & necessaria e non più veduta in luce. + men bello che utile & necessaria e non più veduta in luce. Impresa of the printer, "Pegasus," and below, In "Venetia 1560." @@ -14587,9 +14559,9 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1563. _Venice. J. Calepino._] Splendore delle virtuose giovani dove si contengono molte, & varie mostre - a fogliami cio è punti in aere, et punti tagliati, bellissimi, & con tale + a fogliami cio è punti in aere, et punti tagliati, bellissimi, & con tale arteficio, che li punti tagliati serveno alli punti in aere. Et da quella - ch' è sopragasi far si possono, medesimamente molte altre. + ch' è sopragasi far si possono, medesimamente molte altre. In Venetia Appresso Jeronimo Calepino, 1563.[1309] @@ -14607,8 +14579,8 @@ Plants, Paris. Lucidario di recami, nel qual si contengono molte, & varie sorti di disegni. A punti in aere et punti tagliati, & a fogliami, & con figure & - di più altre maniere, come al presente si usano non più venute in luce - Per lequali ogni elevato ingegno potrà in diversi modi commodissimamente + di più altre maniere, come al presente si usano non più venute in luce + Per lequali ogni elevato ingegno potrà in diversi modi commodissimamente servirsi. In Venetia, Appresso Ieronimo Calepino, 1563.[1310] 8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates of flowing borders like the preceding. @@ -14621,8 +14593,8 @@ Plants, Paris. I Frutti opera nuova intitulata i frutti de i punti in stuora, a fogliami, nella quale si ritrova varie, et diverse sorti di mostre di ponti in Stuora, a fogliami, & punti in gasii & in punti in - Trezola.[1311] Dove ogni bella et virtuosa donna potrà fare ogni sorte di - lavoro, cioè fazoletti, colari, maneghetti, Merli, Frisi, Cavezzi, + Trezola.[1311] Dove ogni bella et virtuosa donna potrà fare ogni sorte di + lavoro, cioè fazoletti, colari, maneghetti, Merli, Frisi, Cavezzi, Intimelle, overo forelle, avertadure da camise, & altre sorti di lavori, come piu a pieno potrai vedere, ne mei per l' adietro d' alcun altro fatte & poste in luce. @@ -14638,8 +14610,8 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1564. _Paris._] - Patrons pour brodeurs, lingières, massons, verriers, et autres gens - d'esperit; nouvellement imprimé, à Paris, rue Saint-Jacques, à la + Patrons pour brodeurs, lingières, massons, verriers, et autres gens + d'esperit; nouvellement imprimé, à Paris, rue Saint-Jacques, à la Queue-de Regnard M.DLXIIII.[1313] @@ -14672,9 +14644,9 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1581. _Lyon. J. Ostans._] - Le trésor des patrons, contenant diverses sortes de broderies et - lingeries; pour coudre avec grande facilité et pour ouvrer en diverses - sortes de piquer avec l'ésguille, pulveriser par dessus et faire ouvrages + Le trésor des patrons, contenant diverses sortes de broderies et + lingeries; pour coudre avec grande facilité et pour ouvrer en diverses + sortes de piquer avec l'ésguille, pulveriser par dessus et faire ouvrages de toutes sortes de points &ct par Jean Ostans. Lyon, Ben. Rigaud. 1581, in 4-to.[1314] @@ -14715,41 +14687,41 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1582. _B. Tabin._] - Neues Künstlicher, Modelbuch von allerhand artlichen und gerechten - Mödeln, &c., bei B. Tabin.[1316] + Neues Künstlicher, Modelbuch von allerhand artlichen und gerechten + Mödeln, &c., bei B. Tabin.[1316] 61. [Sidenote: _Paris._ 1584. _D. de Sera._] - Le livre de Lingerie, composé par Maistre Dominique de Sera, Italien, + Le livre de Lingerie, composé par Maistre Dominique de Sera, Italien, enseignant le noble & gentil art de l'esguille, pour besongner en tous - points: utile & profitable à toutes Dames & Damoyselles, pour passer le - temps, & euiter oysiveté. + points: utile & profitable à toutes Dames & Damoyselles, pour passer le + temps, & euiter oysiveté. - Nouvellement augmenté, & enrichi, de plusieurs excelents & divers - patrons, tant du point coupé, raiseau, que passement, de l'invention de - M. Jean Cousin, Peintre à Paris. + Nouvellement augmenté, & enrichi, de plusieurs excelents & divers + patrons, tant du point coupé, raiseau, que passement, de l'invention de + M. Jean Cousin, Peintre à Paris. A Paris. Chez Hierosme de Marnef, & la veufve de Guillaume Cauellat, au - mont S. Hilaire à l'enseigne du Pelican. 1584. Avec privilege du + mont S. Hilaire à l'enseigne du Pelican. 1584. Avec privilege du Roy.[1317] - In the Cat. d'Estrées; No. 8848, is _Livre de Pourtraicture de Jean + In the Cat. d'Estrées; No. 8848, is _Livre de Pourtraicture de Jean Cousin_. Paris, 1637, in 4 fig. - 4to, 28 ff., 51 plates of mediæval design. + 4to, 28 ff., 51 plates of mediæval design. Frontispiece, three women and a child at work, on each side of the title a man and a woman at work under a trifoliated canopy. - Privilege for three years to H. de Marnef, "juré libraire en - l'Université de Paris." + Privilege for three years to H. de Marnef, "juré libraire en + l'Université de Paris." "L'auteur aux lecteurs." He takes his pen to portray what he has seen - "en Italie, Espagne, Romanie, Allemagne, & autre païs, dont je ne fais - aucune mention à cause de trop longue plexite," that he gives at + "en Italie, Espagne, Romanie, Allemagne, & autre païs, dont je ne fais + aucune mention à cause de trop longue plexite," that he gives at {477}least eighty designs for the use and singular profit of many, "hommes tant que femmes." Below, "Finis coronat opus." @@ -14797,28 +14769,28 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1587. _Paris. 1st Edit. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo._] Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie. Servans - de patrons à faire toutes sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. + de patrons à faire toutes sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. Dedie a la Royne. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & c[=o]tentement, des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic (_sic_) de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par - Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec + Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roy.[1319] [Sidenote: _2nd Part._] Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie ou est - representé les sept planettes, & plusieurs autres figures & pourtraitz - servans de patrons à faire de plusieurs sortes de Lacis. Nouvellement + representé les sept planettes, & plusieurs autres figures & pourtraitz + servans de patrons à faire de plusieurs sortes de Lacis. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de - Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au + Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roi. (At the end.) Privilege for nine years to "Iean le Clerc le ieune, 'tailleur - d'histoires,' à Paris," signed 27 June, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David - le Clerc Rue Frementel à l'Estoille d'Or." + d'histoires,' à Paris," signed 27 June, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David + le Clerc Rue Frementel à l'Estoille d'Or." {478}4to. @@ -14831,13 +14803,13 @@ Plants, Paris. P. 2. Dedication of "Le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo aux Benevolles Lecteurs," in which he sets forth that several authors before him having published certain patterns for work that "les Seigneurs, Dames, - & Damoyselles ont eu pour agréable," he, to show "la bonne volonté que - je porte à la France, laquelle m'ayant été douce et favorable, depuis - certain temps que j'ay quitté Venize, païs de ma nativité," wish to + & Damoyselles ont eu pour agréable," he, to show "la bonne volonté que + je porte à la France, laquelle m'ayant été douce et favorable, depuis + certain temps que j'ay quitté Venize, païs de ma nativité," wish to portray the present "pourtraicts d'ouvrages magnifiques tous differ[=e]s, & non encor usitez en cette c[=o]tree ni aultres, & que - j'ay tenus cachés & inc[=o]gnus jusques à maintenant," feeling assured - that if the first you had seen "on engendré quelque fruit & utilité, + j'ay tenus cachés & inc[=o]gnus jusques à maintenant," feeling assured + that if the first you had seen "on engendré quelque fruit & utilité, ceux cy en aporteront d'avantage," and if I see this my invention pleases you, I will "vous faire participer d'un aultre seconde bande d'ouvrages." @@ -14845,7 +14817,7 @@ Plants, Paris. P. 3. Dedication "A la Royne," Louise de Vaudemont, by Le Clerc, saying that having received from Italy some rare and singular patterns, and "ouvrages de l'ingerie & en ay[=a]t inv[=e]te quelques uns, selon mon - petit sçavoir, j'ay pensé puis que ces choses là appartienent + petit sçavoir, j'ay pensé puis que ces choses là appartienent principallement aux Dames," that he cannot do better than present them to the Queen, as if these patterns are useful (as he hears some less perfect and more rudely sketched have served and profited before), they @@ -14855,33 +14827,33 @@ Plants, Paris. AUX DAMES ET DAMOISELLES. - "L'un sefforce à gaigner le coeur des gr[=a]ds seigneurs - Pour posséder enfin une exquise richesse, + "L'un sefforce à gaigner le coeur des gr[=a]ds seigneurs + Pour posséder enfin une exquise richesse, L'autre aspire aux Estats pour monter en altesse, - Et l'autre par la guerre alléche les honneurs. + Et l'autre par la guerre alléche les honneurs. - Quand à moy, seulement pour chasser mes langueurs, + Quand à moy, seulement pour chasser mes langueurs, Je me sen satisfait de vivre en petitesse, - Et de faire si bien, qu'aux dames je délaisse + Et de faire si bien, qu'aux dames je délaisse Un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs. - Prenez doncques en gré (mes Dames), je vous prie, - Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquelz je vous dédie, + Prenez doncques en gré (mes Dames), je vous prie, + Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquelz je vous dédie, Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer. - En ceste nouveauté, pourrés beaucoup apprendre, + En ceste nouveauté, pourrés beaucoup apprendre, Et maistresses en fin en cest oeuvre vous rendre. Le travail est plaisant. Si grand est le loyer." "_Morir assidouamente per virtu,_ - _Non morirè._" + _Non morirè._" Then follow the 36 patterns set off in white on a black ground, viz., - 20 "Ouvrages de point Couppé," the first plate with the double [Greek: + 20 "Ouvrages de point Couppé," the first plate with the double [Greek: ll], according to the fashion introduced by Francis I. of using Greek monograms, standing for Queen Louise. On the second page are two escutcheons, one of France, the other with the letter H for Henry III. - Then follow eight "Passemens de point Couppé," which are succeeded by - eight more "Ouvrages de point Couppé." + Then follow eight "Passemens de point Couppé," which are succeeded by + eight more "Ouvrages de point Couppé." Part 2, 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in squares for stitches like the German patterns of the present day. These @@ -14889,7 +14861,7 @@ Plants, Paris. and Saturn. Four in squares of various designs; two of Amorini shooting stags and birds; Neptune and the winds; an arabesque with impresa of a column with circle and double triangle; five borders and squares, and - {479}two "bordures à carreaux," diamond-shaped meshes. The last page + {479}two "bordures à carreaux," diamond-shaped meshes. The last page contains the Extract from the Privilege. This is the original edition of Vinciolo, of which we know but one copy @@ -14905,29 +14877,29 @@ Plants, Paris. Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie. Nouvellement augmentez de plusieurs differens pourtraits servans de - patrons à faire toutes sortes poincts couppé, Lacis, et autres reseau de - poinct conté. Dedié à la Royne. Le tout inventé, au proffit & + patrons à faire toutes sortes poincts couppé, Lacis, et autres reseau de + poinct conté. Dedié à la Royne. Le tout inventé, au proffit & contentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A. - Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, + Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587. [Sidenote: _2nd part._] Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie ou - avons augm[=e]té plusieurs nouveaux & differens portraitz de reseau, tout - point conté, plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes. + avons augm[=e]té plusieurs nouveaux & differens portraitz de reseau, tout + point conté, plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes. Nouvellement inventez au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federick de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le - ieune, Ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. + ieune, Ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1321] 1st Part, 40 ff. The same frontispiece, dedications, date, and sonnet, as the first, the same number of patterns, only the eight styled in the first "Passemens" are here all called, like the others, "Ouvrages" de - point couppé. (See Fig. 4.) + point couppé. (See Fig. 4.) 2nd Part, 32 ff. This part has 30 patterns, comprising the 24 of the first edition, and six additional ones, consisting of squares and two @@ -14941,9 +14913,9 @@ Plants, Paris. Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisieme fois augmentez Outre le reseau premier et - le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de - reseau de point c[=o]té avec le nombre des mailles, choze non encor veue - ni inventée. {480}A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au + le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de + reseau de point c[=o]té avec le nombre des mailles, choze non encor veue + ni inventée. {480}A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le College de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1322] @@ -14952,11 +14924,11 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 2. 1st Part._] Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo - Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. + Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & - le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de - reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor - veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint + le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de + reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor + veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, du Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1323] @@ -14966,11 +14938,11 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _2nd Part._] Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo - Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. + Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & - le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de - reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor - veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint + le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de + reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor + veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1324] @@ -14984,24 +14956,24 @@ Plants, Paris. In his Advertisement au lecteur, Vinciolo says that having promised, since the first impression of his book, to give a "nouvelle bande d'ouvrages," and not to disappoint certain ladies who have complained - that he has not made "du reseau assez beau à leur fantaisie," I have + that he has not made "du reseau assez beau à leur fantaisie," I have wished for the third time to place before their eyes many new and - different patterns of "reseau de point conté que j'ay cousus et - attachez à la fin de mes premières figures," beneath which I have put + different patterns of "reseau de point conté que j'ay cousus et + attachez à la fin de mes premières figures," beneath which I have put the number and quantity of the stitches. Same dedication and sonnet as before. Privilege for nine years dated Paris, 25 May, 1587. "De - l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, ruë S. Jacques, au petit Bec, devant le + l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, ruë S. Jacques, au petit Bec, devant le College de Marmouttier." - 1st Part, 40 ff., 36 plates, 27 of point couppé, two stomachers, and - seven "Passemens" de point couppé; the same lettered "Ouvrages" as in + 1st Part, 40 ff., 36 plates, 27 of point couppé, two stomachers, and + seven "Passemens" de point couppé; the same lettered "Ouvrages" as in the preceding impression. 2nd Part, 36 ff., 50 plates. The thirty already published in the second edition, after which follow the twenty additional of "reseau de point - conté," announced in the Preface, consisting of "6 Quarrés, 2 Coins de + conté," announced in the Preface, consisting of "6 Quarrés, 2 Coins de {481}Mouchoir, 2 Bordures, 6 animals: Lion, Pelican, Unicorn, Stag, - Peacock, and Griffon"; and the Four Seasons. "Déesse des fleurs, + Peacock, and Griffon"; and the Four Seasons. "Déesse des fleurs, representant le Printemps," etc. These last twenty have the number of stitches given. (See Fig. 5.) @@ -15016,7 +14988,7 @@ Plants, Paris. A later impression still. Same title, date, portraits, dedication, and sonnet, only the Privilege - is dated "ce douzième jour de Novembre 1587. De l'Imprimerie de David + is dated "ce douzième jour de Novembre 1587. De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, Rue S. Jaques, aux trois Mores."[1325] 34 ff. 30 plates, 1st part; 50 plates in 2nd. @@ -15027,19 +14999,19 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1595. _3rd Edit. No. 4. Parts 1 and 2._] Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Frederic de Vinciolo, - Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie à la Royne - Douairière de France. + Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie à la Royne + Douairière de France. De Rechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & - le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux & differens portrais de - reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encore - veuë ny inventée. + le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux & differens portrais de + reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encore + veuë ny inventée. - A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc, ruë Saint Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre. + A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc, ruë Saint Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre. Avec privilege du Roy. 1595.[1326] This impression is dedicated to Louise de Vaudemont, now "Reine - Douairière," Henry III. having died in 1589. + Douairière," Henry III. having died in 1589. 71. @@ -15048,10 +15020,10 @@ Plants, Paris. The same title as that of 1595--differing only in date.[1327] - Privilege for six years, "donné à Mantes, le 3 Juillet 1593." At the + Privilege for six years, "donné à Mantes, le 3 Juillet 1593." At the foot, "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc au Petit Corbeil 1606." - The 1st part has 32 ff. and 36 plates; 32 "Ouvrages de poinct couppé," + The 1st part has 32 ff. and 36 plates; 32 "Ouvrages de poinct couppé," and 4 stomachers. The 2nd part 46 plates, same as those of 1588, only four less. @@ -15066,8 +15038,8 @@ Plants, Paris. Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la quatrieme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier et - le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de - reseau de point conté, avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore veue + le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de + reseau de point conté, avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore veue ni inventee. A Thurin. Par Eleazaro Thomysi. 1589.[1328] Described in Cat. Cicognara with the date 1658. The 1st part 44 ff. and @@ -15092,12 +15064,12 @@ Plants, Paris. - Lot 528. _Livre de Patrons de Lingerie dediè a la Royne, nouvellement + Lot 528. _Livre de Patrons de Lingerie dediè a la Royne, nouvellement invente par le seign^r Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien._ Paris, Jean le Clerc, 1598.--_Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, 1598.--_Les secondes oeuvres et subtiles inventions de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, - 1598.--_Nouveaux pourtraicts de Point coupé et Dantelles en petite + 1598.--_Nouveaux pourtraicts de Point coupé et Dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme._ A. Montbeliard, Jacques Foillet, 1598. 4 tom. 1 vol. in-4. v. anc. fig. sur bois. @@ -15107,7 +15079,7 @@ Plants, Paris. As M. Leber observes, the various editions of Vinciolo, published by Le Clerc and his widow, from 1587 to 1623, and perhaps later, are only impressions more or less varied of the two distinct books, the one of - point coupé, the other of lacis. + point coupé, the other of lacis. The work of Vinciolo has been reprinted in several countries. In England it has been translated and published by Wolfe. (See No. 72.) At @@ -15119,7 +15091,7 @@ Plants, Paris. In the Bib. Nat. (Grav. B. c. 22), a volume headed _Vinciolo (Federigo) Peintre Venitien et ses imitateurs_, contains, with "La pratique," etc., of Mignerak (See No. 93), a German copy of the "nouveaux - pourtraits," the work printed by Ludwig Künigs, at Basle, 1599 (See No. + pourtraits," the work printed by Ludwig Künigs, at Basle, 1599 (See No. 85); and a German work headed "Broderies sur filet," 50 plates engraved upon copper. @@ -15241,8 +15213,8 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._] La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ricami & di cucire ogni - sorti de punti à foglami, punti tagliati, punti a fili & rimessi, punti - incrociati, punti à stuoro & ogn' altre arte, che dia opera à disegni. E + sorti de punti à foglami, punti tagliati, punti a fili & rimessi, punti + incrociati, punti à stuoro & ogn' altre arte, che dia opera à disegni. E di nuovo aggiuntovi varie sorti di merli, e mostre, che al presente sono in uso & in pratica. @@ -15271,11 +15243,11 @@ Plants, Paris. Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro primo. Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutti le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in - aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra {485}sorte cosi per Freggi come - per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' - Europa. Et molte delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à + aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra {485}sorte cosi per Freggi come + per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' + Europa. Et molte delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta impressione molti bellissimi - dissegni non mai più veduti. + dissegni non mai più veduti. Then follows the printer's impresa of the stork and serpent. "Voluptatum et malorum effetuu dissipatio," with a lady at work on each @@ -15293,22 +15265,22 @@ Plants, Paris. Polo Nani, il Procurator di S. Marco," in which he refers to his work on costume, and says that he dedicates this book to her for the delight she takes in these works and "in farne essercitar le donne di casa sua, - ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggidì vivano in questa città." + ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggidì vivano in questa città ." Signed: Venice, Jan. 20, 1591. Beautiful designs, among which are three corners for handkerchiefs, the last lettered: "Diverse inventioni p. cantoni dee fazoletti." - On Plate 3, within a point coupé border, is a statue of Venus standing + On Plate 3, within a point coupé border, is a statue of Venus standing upon a tortoise, with other figures, and above, "Conviensi, che della - Donna la bontà, & non la bellezza sia divulgata," and underneath:-- + Donna la bontà , & non la bellezza sia divulgata," and underneath:-- "Veneer io son, de le mirabil mani Del dotto Fidia d' un bel marmo finta. In me vedete atti gentili, e humani, - Ch' esser dè Donna à gentilezza accinta. + Ch' esser dè Donna à gentilezza accinta. Io sopra una Testugine dimora, - Perchè stia in Casa, e sia tacita ogn' hora." + Perchè stia in Casa, e sia tacita ogn' hora." [Sidenote: _2nd Book._] @@ -15316,11 +15288,11 @@ Plants, Paris. Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro secondo. Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutte le sorti di Mostre de - puute tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte, + puute tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte, cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano - hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molti delle quali Mostre possono servire - anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta Impressione - molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti. Con Privilegio. In Venetia, + hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molti delle quali Mostre possono servire + anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta Impressione + molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti. Con Privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592. 28 ff., 26 plates. @@ -15330,7 +15302,7 @@ Plants, Paris. 1591. Among the patterns are two designs for handkerchiefs, and on the last - plate a statue of Vesta, within a point coupé border. + plate a statue of Vesta, within a point coupé border. [Sidenote: _3rd Book._] @@ -15339,8 +15311,8 @@ Plants, Paris. tagliati, Punti a reticello, and ancora di picciole; cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidi per tutta l'Europa. Con alcune altre inventione di Bavari all' usanza Venetiana. - Opera nouva e non più in luce. Con privilegio. In Venetia Appresso Cesare - Vecellio, stà in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Petri. 1592. + Opera nouva e non più in luce. Con privilegio. In Venetia Appresso Cesare + Vecellio, stà in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Petri. 1592. Dedication dated June 15, 1591. Vecellio says he has added "alcune inventioni di bavari all' usanza nostra." In the copy (Bib. de @@ -15355,16 +15327,16 @@ Plants, Paris. MANNER OF PRICKING THE PATTERN.--(Vecellio.)] - On Pl. 27, woman with a torch and Cupid. At Pl. 28, in a point coupé + On Pl. 27, woman with a torch and Cupid. At Pl. 28, in a point coupé border, is a fox holding the bust of a lady, the conceit of which is explained by the verses to be, that sense is better than beauty:-- - "Trovò la Volpe d' un Scultore eletto - Una testa sì ben formata, tale, + "Trovò la Volpe d' un Scultore eletto + Una testa sì ben formata, tale, Che sol le manca Spirito havresti detto, Tanto l' industria, e l' arteficio vale, La prende in man, poi dice; O che perfetto - Capo, e gentil; ma voto è d' inteletto." + Capo, e gentil; ma voto è d' inteletto." @@ -15374,11 +15346,11 @@ Plants, Paris. Gioiello della corona per le nobili e virtuose donne. Libro quarto. Nel quale si dimostra altri nuovi bellissimi Dissegni di tutte le sorte di - Mostre di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati & Punti à Reticello; così per - Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per + Mostre di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati & Punti à Reticello; così per + Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali mostre possono servire anchora per - opere à Mazzette Nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni - non mai più usate, nè vedute. Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare + opere à Mazzette Nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni + non mai più usate, nè vedute. Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nella Casa de i Preti. 1594. Same impresa of the stork and serpent. @@ -15420,9 +15392,9 @@ Plants, Paris. At Bologna the Library has one volume, containing the first and second books only, evidently the original impressions. The titles are the same - as the above, only to each is affixed, "Opera nuova e non più data in + as the above, only to each is affixed, "Opera nuova e non più data in luce," and "Stampata per gli Hered' della Regina. 1591. An instantia di - Cesare Vecellio, Stà in Frezzaria." + Cesare Vecellio, Stà in Frezzaria." The same Library also possesses a volume, with the three books of the _Corona_, the first and third "ottava," the second "quarta," and the @@ -15447,10 +15419,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1593. _St. Gall. G. Strauben._] - New Model Buch darinnen allerley Gattung schöner Modeln der newen - aussgeschitnen Arbeit auff Krägen, Hempter, Jakelet und dergleichen zu + New Model Buch darinnen allerley Gattung schöner Modeln der newen + aussgeschitnen Arbeit auff Krägen, Hempter, Jakelet und dergleichen zu newen, so zuvor in Teutschlandt nicht gesehen. Allen thugentsamen Frawen - und Jungkfrawen, Nätterinnen, auch allen audern so lust zu solcher + und Jungkfrawen, Nätterinnen, auch allen audern so lust zu solcher kunstlichen Arbeit haben, sehr dienstlich. {488}Getruckt in uerlegung George Strauben, von S. Gallem, Anno @@ -15472,7 +15444,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N.D. Lindau am Bodensee._] - Neu Model-Buch, darinnen allerley gattung schöner Modeln der neuen, etc. + Neu Model-Buch, darinnen allerley gattung schöner Modeln der neuen, etc. Probably a reprint of No. 79. @@ -15481,10 +15453,10 @@ Plants, Paris. 81. - [Sidenote: 1597. _Liége. J. de Glen._] + [Sidenote: 1597. _Liége. J. de Glen._] Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraits, pour toutes sortes de lingeries de - Jean de Glen, dediés à Madame Loyse de Perez; à Liége, chez Jean de Glen, + Jean de Glen, dediés à Madame Loyse de Perez; à Liége, chez Jean de Glen, l'an 1597.[1338] Obl. 4to, 39 plates, mostly borrowed from Vinciolo, as well as the @@ -15520,7 +15492,7 @@ Plants, Paris. tutte le sorte, di mostre &c. ... di punti &c., cosi {489}per fregi come per merli et rosette che con l' aco si usanno hoggi di per tutte l' Europa. Opere a Mazzetto nuovamente posta in luce con motte bellissime - inventioni non mai più usate ne vedute. In Siena, Matteo Florini MDCIII. + inventioni non mai più usate ne vedute. In Siena, Matteo Florini MDCIII. 4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.) @@ -15529,8 +15501,8 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1597. _Nuremberg. B. Laimoxen._] - Schön neues Modelbuch von allerley lüstigen Mödeln naczunehen zu würken - un zu sticke; gemacht im Jar Ch. 1597, zu Nürmberg, bey Balthaser + Schön neues Modelbuch von allerley lüstigen Mödeln naczunehen zu würken + un zu sticke; gemacht im Jar Ch. 1597, zu Nürmberg, bey Balthaser Laimoxen zu erfragen.[1341] _Translation._ @@ -15549,15 +15521,15 @@ Plants, Paris. 86. - [Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._] + [Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._] - Nouveaux pourctraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et - grande forme nouvellement inventez & mis en lumiere Imprimé a Montbéliard + Nouveaux pourctraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et + grande forme nouvellement inventez & mis en lumiere Imprimé a Montbéliard par Jacques Foillet (|)|)xciix (1598).[1343] Small 4to, 82 ff., 78 plates. - Frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coupé. + Frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coupé. "Avertissement aux dames," of three pages, stating these works are all composed of "point devant l'esguille, de point en toille, en bouclages, @@ -15565,24 +15537,24 @@ Plants, Paris. "very little, middling, large, and very large," with from one to nine _pertuis_, or openings, holes. Also Carreaux in different forms, and lastly _dantelles_. "Je n'ay voulu omettre de vous dire que pour faire - des dantelles, il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desiré + des dantelles, il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desiré faire vos dantelles, & les cordonner, puis jetter les fils au dedans, - qui fera tendre le cordon & lui donnera la forme carrée, ronde, ou - telle forme que desires, ce qu'estant faict vous paracheverès + qui fera tendre le cordon & lui donnera la forme carrée, ronde, ou + telle forme que desires, ce qu'estant faict vous paracheverès facilement. Enoultre vous verrez qu'estant bien petites deviennent peu a peu bien grandes jusques a la fin. Elles vous enricheront & embelliront vos ouvrages en les applicant aux bords d'iceux." Directions, we confess, perfectly enigmatical to us. The author finishes by exhorting the ladies to imitate Minerva and Arachne, "qui - ont acquis un grand renom, pour avoir (c[=o]me à l'envie l'une de - l'autre) travaillé de l'esguille." + ont acquis un grand renom, pour avoir (c[=o]me à l'envie l'une de + l'autre) travaillé de l'esguille." The avertissement is followed by an "Exhortation aux jeunes filles." in verse, of 21 lines, beginning-- "Si nuisible est aux humains la paresse," etc. - 40 patterns of "roses," of point coupé. + 40 patterns of "roses," of point coupé. {490}And 18 of "Carreaux," variously disposed. @@ -15595,10 +15567,10 @@ Plants, Paris. 87. - [Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._] + [Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._] New Modelbuch darinnen allerley ausgeschnittene Arbeit, in kleiner, - mittelmässiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden. Allen tugenden + mittelmässiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden. Allen tugenden Frawen vnnd Jungfrawen sehr nutzlich. Gedruckt zu Mumpelgarten durch Jacob Foillet, 1598.[1344] @@ -15607,19 +15579,19 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1599. _Basle._] - Fewrnew Modelbuch von allerhandt Künstlicher Arbeidt, nämlich Gestricht, + Fewrnew Modelbuch von allerhandt Künstlicher Arbeidt, nämlich Gestricht, Aussgezogen, Aussgeschnitten, Gewiefflet, Gesticht, Gewirckt, und Geneyt: von Wollen, Garn, Faden, oder Seyden: auff der Laden, und Sonderlich auff den Ramen, Jetzt Erstmals in Teutschlandt an Tag gebracht: Zu Ehren und Gl[=u]cklicher Zeitvetreibung allen dugentsamen Frawen, und Jungfrawen - Nächerinen, auch allen andern, so lust zu solcher Kunstlicher Arbeit + Nächerinen, auch allen andern, so lust zu solcher Kunstlicher Arbeit haben sehr dienstlich. Getruckt zu Basel. In verlegung Ludwig K[=u]nigs MDXCIX.[1345] Small obl., 33 ff., 32 plates. - Frontispiece border of point coupé. Title in Gothic red and black. + Frontispiece border of point coupé. Title in Gothic red and black. Patterns, mostly borders, number of stitches given, "Mit xxxxvii., Bengen," etc. "Ende dieses modelbuchs." @@ -15628,10 +15600,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1601. _Paris._] - Béle Prérie contenant divers caracters, et differentes sortes de lettres - alphabetiques, à sçavoir lettres Romaines, de formes, lettres pour + Béle Prérie contenant divers caracters, et differentes sortes de lettres + alphabetiques, à sçavoir lettres Romaines, de formes, lettres pour appliquer sur le reseuil ou lassis, et autres pour marquer sur toile et - linges, par Pier. le Bé. Paris, 1601.[1346] + linges, par Pier. le Bé. Paris, 1601.[1346] In 4to obl. @@ -15640,7 +15612,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1601. _Nuremberg. Sibmacher._] - Modelbuch in Kupfer gemacht, Nürmberg, bei Michel Kuisner, 1601, by J. + Modelbuch in Kupfer gemacht, Nürmberg, bei Michel Kuisner, 1601, by J. Sibmacher.[1347] @@ -15648,10 +15620,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1604. _Nuremberg. J. Sibmacher._] - Newes Modelbûch fûr Kûpfer gemacht, darinnen allerhand art newen Model + Newes Modelbûch fûr Kûpfer gemacht, darinnen allerhand art newen Model von dem Mittel und Dick ausgeschniden duer {491}Arbeit auch andern kunstlichen Nahework zu gebrauchen mit Fluss fur druck verfertigt. Mit - Röm. Kais. Maj trentich Nürmberg 1604.[1348] + Röm. Kais. Maj trentich Nürmberg 1604.[1348] _Translation._ @@ -15695,7 +15667,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D._] - Allerhand Model zum Stricken un Nähen.[1351] + Allerhand Model zum Stricken un Nähen.[1351] Obl. 4to, 64 plates. No date. @@ -15704,7 +15676,7 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1604. _Padua. P. P. Fozzi._] - A book of models for point coupé and embroidery, published at Padua, + A book of models for point coupé and embroidery, published at Padua, October 1st, 1604, by Pietro Paolo Fozzi. "Romano."[1352] @@ -15712,12 +15684,12 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1605. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._] - Schön newes Modelbuch von 500 schönen aussor wählten, Kunstlichen, so wol - Italiähnischen, Frantzösischen, {492}Niederländischen, Engelländischen, - als Teutschen Mödeln, Allen, Näher.... hstichern, &c., zu nutz. (_Some of + Schön newes Modelbuch von 500 schönen aussor wählten, Kunstlichen, so wol + Italiähnischen, Frantzösischen, {492}Niederländischen, Engelländischen, + als Teutschen Mödeln, Allen, Näher.... hstichern, &c., zu nutz. (_Some of the words are illegible._) - Livre des Modelles fort utile à tous ceux qui besoignent à l'esguille. + Livre des Modelles fort utile à tous ceux qui besoignent à l'esguille. At the foot of last page recto is, "Franckfurt am Mayn, bey Sigismund Latomus, 1605."[1353] @@ -15743,11 +15715,11 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1607. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._] - Schön newes Modelbuch, Von hundert vnd achtzig schönen kunstreichen vnd - gerechten Mödeln, Teutsche vnd Welsche, welche auff mancherley Art können + Schön newes Modelbuch, Von hundert vnd achtzig schönen kunstreichen vnd + gerechten Mödeln, Teutsche vnd Welsche, welche auff mancherley Art können geneet werden, als mit Zopffnath, Creutz vnnd Judenstich, auch auff Laden zu wircken: Dessgleichen von ausserlesenen Zinnigen oder Spitzen. Allen - Seydenstickern, Mödelwirckerin, Näderin, vnd solcher Arbeitgeflissenen + Seydenstickern, Mödelwirckerin, Näderin, vnd solcher Arbeitgeflissenen Weibsbildern sehr dienstlich, vnd zu andern Mustern {493}anleytlich vnd verstendig. Franckfurt am Mayn, In Verlegung Sigismundi Latomi. M.D.C.VII.[1354] @@ -15764,22 +15736,22 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1605. _Paris. M. Mignerak._] - La pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias + La pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak Anglois, ouvrier fort expert en toute sorte de lingerie ou sont tracez Divers compartimens de carrez tous differans en grandeur et invention avec les plus exquises bordures, desseins d'ordonnances qui se - soient veux jusques à ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques, qu'au tres - ouvrages de point de rebord. Ensemble Les nouvelles invencions Françoises + soient veux jusques à ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques, qu'au tres + ouvrages de point de rebord. Ensemble Les nouvelles invencions Françoises pour ce qui est de devotion et contemplation. A la Tres-Chrestiene Roine de France et de Navarre. Avec privilege 1605 du Roy.[1355] - A Paris, par Jean Leclerc, rue St.-Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre + A Paris, par Jean Leclerc, rue St.-Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre roialle. EXTRACT FROM "DISCOURS DU LACIS." - "Ce chef d'oeuvre divin n'est pas à l'adventure - Mais par art composé, par nombre, et par mesure; + "Ce chef d'oeuvre divin n'est pas à l'adventure + Mais par art composé, par nombre, et par mesure; Il commence par un, et va multipliant Le nombre de ses trouz qu'un noeud va reliant, Sans perdre aucunement des nombres d'entresuitte, @@ -15790,14 +15762,14 @@ Plants, Paris. Il faut multiplier, adjouster, et soustraire: Il faut bien promptement assembler, et partir, Qui veut un beau Lacis inegal compartir. - Mais se peut il trouver, souz la voute azurée, - Chose plus justement en tous sens mesurée? + Mais se peut il trouver, souz la voute azurée, + Chose plus justement en tous sens mesurée? Ouvrage ou il y ait tant de proportions, De figures, de traicts et de dimensions? - D'un point premièrement une ligne l'on tire, - Puis le filet courbé un cercle va descrire, - Et du cercle noué se trouve le quarré - Pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont erré. + D'un point premièrement une ligne l'on tire, + Puis le filet courbé un cercle va descrire, + Et du cercle noué se trouve le quarré + Pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont erré. De six mailles se faict une figure egale, De trois costez esgaux, pour forme pyramidale: Et l'ouvrage croissant, s'en forme promptement @@ -15805,20 +15777,20 @@ Plants, Paris. Une autre dont les deux sont egaux seulement. Si l'on tire un des coings, se forme une figure. D'un triangle en tout sens, d'inegale mesure. - Le moule plus tiré faict les angles pointuz, + Le moule plus tiré faict les angles pointuz, Et l'ouvrage estendu faict les angles obtuz. - De mailles à la fin un beau quarré se faict, - Composé de quarrez, tout egal, et parfaict, - Quarré qui toutesfois se forme variable, + De mailles à la fin un beau quarré se faict, + Composé de quarrez, tout egal, et parfaict, + Quarré qui toutesfois se forme variable, Or en lozange, et or en figure de table. - La bande de Lacis recouvert, à nos yeux, + La bande de Lacis recouvert, à nos yeux, Est comme un beau pourtraict de l'escharpe des cieux, - Dont chaque endroit ouvré nous represente un signe, + Dont chaque endroit ouvré nous represente un signe, Le milieu, les degrez de l'Eclyptique ligne; - Le quarré, des vertus le symbole, et signal + Le quarré, des vertus le symbole, et signal De science du livre et bonnet doctoral, Nous va representant l'Eglise et la Justice. - La façon de lacer figure l'exercice + La façon de lacer figure l'exercice D'enfiler une bague on bien l'art d'escrimer. . . . . . Le lacis recouvert sert de filet aux dames @@ -15826,7 +15798,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Elles en font collets, coiffures, et mouchoirs, Des tentures de lits, tauayoles, pignoirs, Et maint autre ornement dont elles les enlacent, - C'est pourquoi en laçant les femmes ne se lassent." + C'est pourquoi en laçant les femmes ne se lassent." In 4to, 76 ff., 72 plates. @@ -15836,10 +15808,10 @@ Plants, Paris. Between the sides of a pair of scissors is a cushion on which is extended a piece of lacis, a "marguerite" in progress. (See Fig. 6.) Above, "Petrus Firens fecit, I. le Clerc excud." Below, "A Paris par - Jean le Clerc Rue St. Jean de Latran à la Salamandre royalle." + Jean le Clerc Rue St. Jean de Latran à la Salamandre royalle." Dedication of Jean le Clerc "A la royne," then Marie de Medicis, - stating: "J'avois recouvré d'un personnage Anglois tres-expert en toute + stating: "J'avois recouvré d'un personnage Anglois tres-expert en toute sorte de Lingerie;" but who this Milour Mignerak may be, history tells not. @@ -15851,7 +15823,7 @@ Plants, Paris. The patterns consist of the Queen's arms and cypher, 4 Scripture subjects: Adam and Eve, the annunciation, Ecce Homo, and Magdalen; 4 Elements, 4 Seasons; Roman Charity, Lucretia, Venus, and "Pluye d'or;" - 6 Arbes à fruit, 6 Pots à fleurs, 30 Carrés grands, moyens et petits; 6 + 6 Arbes à fruit, 6 Pots à fleurs, 30 Carrés grands, moyens et petits; 6 Bordures, and, what is quite a novelty, 6 "Passements faits au fuseau." (See Fig. 13): the first mention of pillow lace in any of the French pattern-books. @@ -15862,13 +15834,13 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1613. _Paris. F. Vinciolo._] Les secondes oeuvres, et subtiles inventions de Lingerie du Seigneur - Federic de Vinçiolo Venitien; nouvellement augmenté de plusieurs carrez - de point de rebort. Dediée à Madame, soeur unique du roy. Ou sont + Federic de Vinçiolo Venitien; nouvellement augmenté de plusieurs carrez + de point de rebort. Dediée à Madame, soeur unique du roy. Ou sont representees plusieurs figures de Reseau, nombres de Carrez et Bordures - tous differents, le tout de poinct conté, avec autres sortes de Carrez de + tous differents, le tout de poinct conté, avec autres sortes de Carrez de nouvelles inventions non encore vues. - {495}A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc, rue sainct Jean de Latran, à la + {495}A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc, rue sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre, 1613. Avec privilege du Roy.[1356] A scarce and valuable volume, the fullest edition of the second part of @@ -15887,8 +15859,8 @@ Plants, Paris. Le present est utile et plein de gentillesse, Il monstre les moyens de bien entrelasser. - Et faire au point couppé tout ce qu'on peut penser. - Cet exercise plaist à Pallas la Deesse. + Et faire au point couppé tout ce qu'on peut penser. + Cet exercise plaist à Pallas la Deesse. Par ses enseignemens, avec l'esguille on fait Des fleurons, des oyseaux, en ouvrage parfait, @@ -15896,7 +15868,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Aymez cet exercise, et vous y occupez, Et puis vous cognoistrez que sur les points couppez - En diverses façons quelque portrait se tire." + En diverses façons quelque portrait se tire." The author's address to the reader, and a @@ -15905,9 +15877,9 @@ Plants, Paris. Clerc. On the second plates are her arms, a lozenge, France and Navarre with - crown and cordelière, and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated + crown and cordelière, and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated frontispiece, supported on either side by a genius (?) working at a - frame and point coupé drapery. + frame and point coupé drapery. 7 Scripture subjects: The Salutation, St. Sacrement, Passion, Crucifixion, Adoration of the Kings, etc.; the number of the stitches @@ -15965,12 +15937,12 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1618. _Frankfort on the Mayn. D. Meyer._] - Zierat Buch, von allerhandt Kutschnur, Schleyer deckel, Krägen, - Leibgürtel, Passmenten, Händschug, Wehrgeheng und Schubenehen, - Messerscheyden, Secklen, Früchten, Blumen und ands. mehr. + Zierat Buch, von allerhandt Kutschnur, Schleyer deckel, Krägen, + Leibgürtel, Passmenten, Händschug, Wehrgeheng und Schubenehen, + Messerscheyden, Secklen, Früchten, Blumen und ands. mehr. Allen Perlenbefftern, Nederin, Lehrinngen und andern welche lust zu - dieser Kunst tragen, sehr nützlich. + dieser Kunst tragen, sehr nützlich. Inn diese Format zusammen ordiniert und gsetzt durch Daniel Meyer Mahlern. 1ster Theil. @@ -15993,10 +15965,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1619. _Leipsic. A. Bretschneider._] - New Modelb[)u]ch Darinnen allerley kunstliche Virsirung und Müster - artiger Z[)u]ege und schöner Bl[)u]mmen zu zierlichen Ueberschlagen, - Haupt Schurtz Schn[)u]ptüchern Hauben Handschuhen, Uhren (?) gehenzen, - Kampfütern [)u]nd dergleichen auf Muhler naht und Seidenst[)u]cker arbeit + New Modelb[)u]ch Darinnen allerley kunstliche Virsirung und Müster + artiger Z[)u]ege und schöner Bl[)u]mmen zu zierlichen Ueberschlagen, + Haupt Schurtz Schn[)u]ptüchern Hauben Handschuhen, Uhren (?) gehenzen, + Kampfütern [)u]nd dergleichen auf Muhler naht und Seidenst[)u]cker arbeit gantz Kunstlich gemahlt {497}und vorgerissen, dergleichen sie bevorn noch nie in Druck ausgegangen. 16 Leipzicht 19. @@ -16012,7 +15984,7 @@ Plants, Paris. embroiderer's work, and which have never before gone out of print. Small folio, 53 plates, and half a sheet of text, containing the - dedication of the work to Madame Catherine von Dorstats, née Löser. + dedication of the work to Madame Catherine von Dorstats, née Löser. There appear to be 3 plates wanting. @@ -16022,7 +15994,7 @@ Plants, Paris. A Schole House for the Needle. 1624.[1360] - Obl. 4to. Was sold at the White Knight's sale for £3 15s. + Obl. 4to. Was sold at the White Knight's sale for £3 15s. 105. @@ -16033,7 +16005,7 @@ Plants, Paris. in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati e punti in aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Retcello, e d' ogn' altra sorte, Cosi per Fregi, per merli e Rosette, che con Aco si viano hoggidi per lutta - l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à + l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à Mozzete. Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a' Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana. In Venetia, appresso Allessandro de Vecchi, 1620.[1361] @@ -16075,7 +16047,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Fol., 20 plates. - Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is + Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is represented under a Doric porch, standing on a tortoise, symbol of a home-loving woman. (See No. 77.) She holds a ball of thread in her hand. Behind, on the left, are two women at work; on the right, a @@ -16098,10 +16070,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1623. _Paris._] Les excellents eschantillons, patrons et modelles du Seigneur Federic de - Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de - Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et - dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le - Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege + Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de + Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et + dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le + Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege du Roy, 1623.[1364] In 4to, 56 ff. @@ -16111,18 +16083,18 @@ Plants, Paris. Dedication to the Queen, Anne of Austria. The Goddess Pallas invented "les ouvrages de lingerie, le poinct - couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de + couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de dentelles, tant pour se desennuyer que se parer, par l'artifice de ses - ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se - voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption - fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste + ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se + voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption + fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste exercise." Fastrade and Constance, wives of the Emperor Charlemagne and - of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs - ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has + of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs + ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has reached perfection through the works of Vinciolo. I reprint and again increase his work, which I dedicate to your Majesty, to whom I presume they will be agreeable; the subject of which it treats is "une - invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne--vous estant autant Royne + invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne--vous estant autant Royne des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes." Signed, "la Veufve de feu Iean le Clerc." @@ -16130,7 +16102,7 @@ Plants, Paris. Privilege for six years, dated Paris, last day of March, 1623. - 55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au + 55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au fuzeau" (see Figs. 14 and 15), and alphabet. [Illustration: Fig. 173. @@ -16232,7 +16204,7 @@ Plants, Paris. "The Needle's Excellency, or a new Book of Patterns, with a poem by John Taylor, in Praise of the Needle." London, 1640. Obl. 4to, engraved - title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes, + title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes, _Bibliographer's Manual_. New edit., by H. Bohn). Another copy of the same date, marked 12th edition, is in the Library of King's College, Cambridge. It consists of title, four leaves with the poem, subscribed @@ -16247,7 +16219,7 @@ Plants, Paris. mano di trattenersi dilettano di far Rezze, maglia quadra, punti in aria, punti in tagliati, punti a reticello, cosi per fregio come per merletti e rosette di varie sorti, si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per - tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più + tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più celebri autori di tal professione. In Pistoja, per Piero A. Fortunato. In 8vo obl., dedicated to Caterina Giraldini, in Cellesi. August 20 @@ -16258,12 +16230,12 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1666. _Nuremberg._] - Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins - arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler. + Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins + arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler. Obl. 4to, 3 sheets of text, 50 plates. - Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20, + Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20, 1666.[1368] @@ -16273,8 +16245,8 @@ Plants, Paris. gravures burin," containing a collection of patterns engraved on copper, 43 plates, four of which are double, pasted in the book, without title or date. Pomegranates, narcissus, lilies, carnations, - most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and - Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks + most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and + Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks (Zwickel) of stockings and other patterns. @@ -16282,8 +16254,8 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1676. _Nuremberg. C. Gerharts._] - Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und - Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg, + Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und + Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg, Christoff Gerharts, 1676. 4to obl., engraved title and printed list; 42 wood plates, 4 large. @@ -16293,11 +16265,11 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1722. _Paris._] - Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux + Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du - père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une - mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à - Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris, + père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une + mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à + Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris, 1722.[1369] 72 geometric squares, with directions how to make them useful to @@ -16309,10 +16281,10 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: 1784. _Nuremberg and Leipzig. Christoph Weigel._] - Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand + Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand Zierrathen, wie auch viele neue Zwickel, nebst Buchstaben und Zahlen, - sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich - sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel + sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich + sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel und Schneider. 1784.[1370] @@ -16320,13 +16292,13 @@ Plants, Paris. [Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. F. M. Helmin._] - Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu + Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs dritter Theil, worinnen fleiszige - Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches + Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches Nadel-Exercitium, beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden Belegenheiten zu haben allerhand noch nie vorgeko[=m]ene Muster zu Deso gebrauch, vorlegt und en die Hand gegeben werden von Fr. Margaretha Helmin, zu finden in - Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371] + Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371] Oblong fol. @@ -16337,8 +16309,8 @@ Plants, Paris. Zierlich webende Minerva, oder neu erfundenes Kunst- und Bild-Buch der Weber- und Zeichner-Arbeit, worinnen treue Anweisung geschieht, wie man - kunstlich wirken und schöne Arbeit verfertigen soll, von der - vierschäfftigen an, bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige. Nurnberg + kunstlich wirken und schöne Arbeit verfertigen soll, von der + vierschäfftigen an, bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige. Nurnberg (Johann Christoph Weigel). No date.[1372] 49 plates in sheets. @@ -16363,10 +16335,10 @@ buttonhole stitches, or (2) of twisted or plaited threads. It is used instead of a ground-work of net; the word is French, its English equivalent being _pearl-tie_. The French word is chiefly employed. -_Brides ornées_ = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls. +_Brides ornées_ = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls. _Buttonhole Stitch._ One of the chief stitches in needle-made lace; also -known as _close stitch_, _Point noué_, and _Punto a Feston_. +known as _close stitch_, _Point noué_, and _Punto a Feston_. _Cartisane._ A strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or metal thread, used to form a pattern. @@ -16383,7 +16355,7 @@ cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as _fleurs volantes_. _Coxcombs_ = Bars. -_Dentélé_ = Scalloped border. +_Dentélé_ = Scalloped border. _Droschel._ Flemish word used in Belgium for net-ground made with bobbins. @@ -16391,10 +16363,10 @@ _Dressed Pillow._ A term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all accessories necessary are in their proper positions.[1373] {504}_Edge._ There are two edges to lace; the outer, which in trimmings and -flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the _engrêlure_ +flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the _engrêlure_ or _footing_. -_Engrêlure_ = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to +_Engrêlure_ = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to the material it is to decorate. _Entoilage._ French term for a plain mesh ground or galloon.[1374] @@ -16414,10 +16386,10 @@ spun. That of Flanders is the best for lace-making. _Fleurs Volantes._ See _Couronnes_. _Fond._ Identical with _champ_, _entoilage_, and _treille_. The groundwork -of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which +of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which it surrounds and supports. Grounds are divided into _fonds claires_, -_brides claires_, and _brides ornées_. The _fond claires_ include the -_Réseau_ or net-patterned grounds. _Fond de Neige_ is also known as _Oeil +_brides claires_, and _brides ornées_. The _fond claires_ include the +_Réseau_ or net-patterned grounds. _Fond de Neige_ is also known as _Oeil de Perdrix_. _Fond Simple._ Sometimes called _Point de Lille_; is the purest, lightest, @@ -16427,7 +16399,7 @@ and Chioggia; but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads round each other, and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the threads over each other. [See _Grounds_.][1374] -_Footing._ See _Engrêlure_. +_Footing._ See _Engrêlure_. _Gimp._ The _pattern_ which rests on the ground or is held together by brides. The work should not, however be confounded with the material gimp, @@ -16443,16 +16415,16 @@ extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads.[1374] {505}_Groppo_ [Italian]. A knot or tie. _Grounds._ The grounds of laces are divided into two classes, one being -called the _bride_, the other the _Réseau_. The _bride_ ground is formed +called the _bride_, the other the _Réseau_. The _bride_ ground is formed with plain or ornamental bars, in order to connect the ornaments forming -the pattern. The _Réseau_ ground is a net made with the needle or with +the pattern. The _Réseau_ ground is a net made with the needle or with bobbins, to connect the ornaments forming the pattern. _Guipure._ A lace-like trimming of twisted threads. The word is now used to loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern. _Guipure d'Art_ is the name given to modern darned netting.[1375] -_Heading_ = _Footing_, _engrêlure_. +_Heading_ = _Footing_, _engrêlure_. _Jours._ Ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace. The earliest forms of _jours_ may be seen in Venetian point lace, where @@ -16473,7 +16445,7 @@ upholstering purposes. In the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of gold and silver.[1375] _Passement._ Until the seventeenth century, laces, bands, and gimps were -called _passements à l'aiguille_; bobbin laces, _passements au fuseau_. At +called _passements à l'aiguille_; bobbin laces, _passements au fuseau_. At present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both needle-point and bobbin laces are worked. @@ -16499,13 +16471,13 @@ _Pizzo_ [Italian]. Lace. _Ply_ = A single untwisted thread. _Point Lace._ Lace made with the point of the needle. The French term is -_Point à l'aiguille_. The term point has been misused to describe varieties +_Point à l'aiguille_. The term point has been misused to describe varieties of lace, such as _Point d'Angleterre_, _Point de Malines_, etc., which are laces made on the pillow, and not with the point of the needle. -_Point de Raccroc._ A stitch used by lace-makers to join _réseau_ ground. +_Point de Raccroc._ A stitch used by lace-makers to join _réseau_ ground. -_Point Noué_ = Buttonhole stitch. +_Point Noué_ = Buttonhole stitch. _Point Plat._ A French term for flat point executed without a raised cordonnet or outline cord.[1376] @@ -16523,17 +16495,17 @@ _Purls_ = _Brides_. _Purlings_ = A stitch used in Honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made sprigs.[1376] -_Réseau._ Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various +_Réseau._ Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various manners, and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate manners. The French term, as here given, is generally used in preference to any English equivalent. -_Réseau Rosacé._ See _Argentella_ (Ch. ARGENTAN). +_Réseau Rosacé._ See _Argentella_ (Ch. ARGENTAN). _Rouissage._ The process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun for lace-making. -_Rezél_, _Reseuil._ See LACIS, Chap. II. +_Rezél_, _Reseuil._ See LACIS, Chap. II. _Runners._ The name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in bobbin lace are known. @@ -16552,7 +16524,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Abrahat, Mrs., pensioned by Queen Anne, 347 - Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638 + Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638 Abruzzi, the, lace-making in, 68 @@ -16562,9 +16534,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Adelaide, Queen, 409 and n1155, n1156 - Adélaïde de France, 182 + Adélaïde de France, 182 - Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5 + Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5 Agriculture, women employed in, lace-makers contrasted with, 370 @@ -16582,13 +16554,13 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Alenches, 249 - Alençon + Alençon numbers of lace-workers at Chantilly and, (1851), 257 n688, refugees from, in 18th century, 347 --------, Duke d', 140 n395 - -------- lace (see Point d'Alençon) + -------- lace (see Point d'Alençon) Alice, Princess, bridal dress of, 409 @@ -16609,7 +16581,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Bock collection, in, 23 Prague, at (by Anne of Bohemia), 9 - Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23 + Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23 Altenburg, 268 @@ -16640,7 +16612,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. --------, Lady, robbery at house of, 346 - Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196 + Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196 Anne of Austria, influence of, on French fashions, 147, 150 @@ -16678,7 +16650,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Brussels lace made at, 130 Mechlin lace made at, 125 -------- lace - arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 + arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 Brussels lace compared with, 118 first mention of, 129 and n367 Spanish market for, 129-130 @@ -16759,7 +16731,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Anne of. _See_ Anne lace of, 268 - Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100 + Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100 Auvergne ancient names preserved in, 246 n658 @@ -16861,7 +16833,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Bavaria, Queen of, 421 - Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n393 + Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n393 Bay, Rudolf, 274 @@ -16869,10 +16841,10 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. black lace of, 214, 226 Chantilly shawls made at, 215 lace industry, establishment of, 226; - Lefébure's development of, 228; + Lefébure's development of, 228; number of lace-makers engaged in, 228 n614 mignonette made at (1665), 35 n109 - point d'Alençon of, 200 + point d'Alençon of, 200 point de Marli of, 225 and n613 point de raccroc of, 120 Spanish silk laces contrasted with those of, 103 @@ -16893,14 +16865,14 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Beaufort, Duchesse of, edicts ignored by, 142; extracts from inventory of, 143 and n413, n414, n415. - Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n351 + Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n351 Beaumont and Fletcher, quoted, 292 n788, 296 and n805, 315 and n896, 324, 363 n1070, 365 Beauregard, 248 and n664 - Becket, Thomas à, 202 and n569 + Becket, Thomas à , 202 and n569 Beckford, quoted, 90, 98 n280 @@ -16922,9 +16894,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Beggars' lace, 34 - Béguinage, 126, 130, 133 + Béguinage, 126, 130, 133 - "Bèle, Prerie," 144 + "Bèle, Prerie," 144 Belev lace, 283 @@ -16948,7 +16920,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Bell, Mrs., old lace of, 384 - Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n368 + Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n368 Bellini, lace in picture by, 47 @@ -16974,7 +16946,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Bess of Hardwick, 11 - Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155 + Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155 Bible printed by Quentell, 460 @@ -17006,10 +16978,10 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. England, imported to, from Low Countries, 117 n330; fashion introduced into, 153 n444; Lille fabric popular in, 237 - fond d'Alençon, ground, 214 + fond d'Alençon, ground, 214 France, fashion introduced into, 153-154 Le Puy fabric, 245 - Liège fabric, 137 n391 + Liège fabric, 137 n391 Lille fabric, 236, 237 loom-made, 432 n1212 masks of, 177 @@ -17039,7 +17011,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Genoese manufacture of, 75 Le Puy, of, 245 Spanish, 103 n305 - Vélay, of, 244 + Vélay, of, 244 white, 214 Bobbin lace (_See also_ Pillow lace) @@ -17134,7 +17106,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Boys as lace-makers, 263, 377, 413, 414 Brabant (_See also_ Belgium) - lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274 + lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274 point de Sedan, attributed to, 254 Brabant lace. _See_ Brussels, Mechlin, etc. @@ -17180,7 +17152,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Milanese lace, in, 75 n237 Spanish point, in, 58 thread guipures, in, 39, 40 - _vrai réseau_ the successor of, 406 + _vrai réseau_ the successor of, 406 Bridgewater Baptist Church, manifesto of, 403 and n1144 @@ -17214,14 +17186,14 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Brunfaut, M. Duhayon, 131 and n374 Brussels lace - Alençon, 200 + Alençon, 200 application, rivalry of Mirecourt, 252 - arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 + arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 branches of industry, 123 Brussels the only place for, 118 colour of, 121 compared with-- - Alençon, 199; + Alençon, 199; Binche, 135; Lille, 237; point de France, 194; @@ -17278,7 +17250,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Buoy, lace seized in, 360 n1066 Burano - Alençon point made at, 62, 200 + Alençon point made at, 62, 200 Argentan made at, 62, 208 English thread used at, 394 n1128 number of lace-workers at, 394 n1128 @@ -17386,7 +17358,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Carpentier, Madame, 226 - Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98 + Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98 Carrickmacross, lace industry at, 440 @@ -17409,7 +17381,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ---------- of Braganza, 43 n137 - ---------- de Médecis, + ---------- de Médecis, bed of, 22 bizette of, 33 n102 Florentine lace probably introduced into France by, 67 @@ -17439,7 +17411,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Challus, Anne, 184 n540 - Chambrières, 8 + Chambrières, 8 Champagne, lace industry of, 253-255 @@ -17454,7 +17426,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. "Chansons a toile", 8 and n29 Chantilly - number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n688 + number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n688 point tresse made at, 314 ---------- lace @@ -17514,15 +17486,15 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Chat, 181 and n536 - Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n584 + Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n584 -------- -Renaud lace, 254 -------- -Thierry, lace industry at, 157 n459, 253 - Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n671 + Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n671 - Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n287 + Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n287 ----------, Zacharie, 259 @@ -17543,7 +17515,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Cheyne lace, 438 Chiavari - _Macramé_ of, 79 + _Macramé_ of, 79 tape guipure of, 75 Chicago Exhibition. _See under_ Exhibitions @@ -17566,7 +17538,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ------, lace exchanged for, 349 - Choïsy, Abbé de, 167 + Choïsy, Abbé de, 167 Christening shirts of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 308 and n872 @@ -17610,7 +17582,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. -------- X., Pope, 172 n505 - Clément, M., 226 + Clément, M., 226 Clermont, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted 128 n363, 195 n560, 207 n578 @@ -17618,7 +17590,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Clones, lace and crochet industry of, 445 - Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51 + Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51 ------ lace Le Puy Fabric, 246 n659 @@ -17653,14 +17625,14 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. fabrics established by, at Arras, 239 and n644 Aurillac, 247 - Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n584 + Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n584 Le Quesnoy, 230 Loudun, 256 Huguenots protected by, 100 inventory of, quoted, 218 n596, 259 n692 Mazarin, correspondence with, concerning lace, referred to, 150-151 ordinance of, 54 - point d'Alençon established by, 188 + point d'Alençon established by, 188 points de France, established by, 33, 111 Raffy, Madame, letter from, quoted, 202 @@ -17681,7 +17653,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Cologne pattern book, 268 - Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n435 + Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n435 Colporteurs, lace sold by, 44 and n142, n143 @@ -17699,7 +17671,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Conclave, the holy, laces of, 70 - Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n355, 161 n468, 168 n496, + Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n355, 161 n468, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, n520, 195 n558 Congreve, cited, 344 n1021; @@ -17759,7 +17731,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Cranfield, Sir Lyonell, cited, 324 n934 - Crâponne fabric, 246 + Crâponne fabric, 246 Cravat, laced introduction of, 337 @@ -17768,7 +17740,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Creaden, the Queen of, 437 n1223 - Créquy, M. de, 143 + Créquy, M. de, 143 ------, Madame de, quoted, 175 @@ -17786,11 +17758,11 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Crown lace, 299 and n814 - Croïy, Duc de, 366 n1083 + Croïy, Duc de, 366 n1083 Crusaders, art of lace-making, traced to, 45 n148 - Cuença, 246 + Cuença, 246 Cuipure (guipure), 37 @@ -17818,7 +17790,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Cyprus, needlework of, 82 - d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638 + d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638 d'Addo, Marquis, 459 n1264, 467 n1287, n1288, 469 n1294, 470, 472, 475, 476 and n1315, 477 @@ -17857,11 +17829,11 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Dawson, Mrs., 446 n1235 - de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357 + de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357 - de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208 + de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208 - de Staël, Madame, 180 + de Staël, Madame, 180 Deaf and dumb, net lace used by, in Sardinia, 81 n248 @@ -17882,7 +17854,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. cut-work of, 276, 277 embroidered tulle of, 229 grave-clothes, lace adorned in, 275, 366 and n1082 - lace industry. (_See also_ Schleswig and Tönder) + lace industry. (_See also_ Schleswig and Tönder) export trade, 274 n736 lace postmen, 274, 277 origin of, 272 @@ -17894,15 +17866,15 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Denny, Lady Arabella, 437, 438 and n1225, 439 and n1227 - Dentelière, work of, 122 + Dentelière, work of, 122 Dentelle, definition of term, 27 and n80 - -------- à la Reine, 259 and n692 + -------- à la Reine, 259 and n692 - -------- à la Vierge, 220 + -------- à la Vierge, 220 - "Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32 + "Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32 Derby Alice, Countess of, effigy of, 321 n927 @@ -17920,11 +17892,11 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Desmond, Countess of, 437 n1222 - Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155 + Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155 n455 ------, Odolent, quoted, on invention and establishment of point - d'Alençon, 155-157 + d'Alençon, 155-157 Despierres, Mme., quoted, 157 n457, n458, 159 n464, 195 n557, 204 n571, 307; @@ -17955,7 +17927,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ------ lace, 183 n539 - Dieudonné-- + Dieudonné-- quoted, 225 n613, 231; cited 237 n639 @@ -17977,9 +17949,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. "Don Quixote," cited, 98 n281 - Donat, Père, 501 + Donat, Père, 501 - Donchéry lace, 254 + Donchéry lace, 254 Doran, Dr., anecdote related by, 186 @@ -17988,7 +17960,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Dorstats, Madame Catherine von, 497 - Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176 + Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176 Double ground, 386 @@ -18073,7 +18045,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. _Eagle_ (French vessel), seizure of, 101 Earnings and wages of lace-workers - Alençon, 192 + Alençon, 192 Arras (1788), 239; (1851), 240 Bedfordshire, 377 @@ -18094,7 +18066,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Spain, 102 Switzerland, 270 Val, 233, 234 n627 - Vélay, 244 + Vélay, 244 Ypres Valenciennes, 131 n373 Eaton, John, 336 @@ -18247,11 +18219,11 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. sumptuary laws. _See that title_ Vinciolo published in, 482 - Engrêlure, 31, 168 n496 + Engrêlure, 31, 168 n496 Entoilage, 30, 250 - Épinal, 251 + Épinal, 251 Equipage de bain, 168 @@ -18275,7 +18247,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Eu lace, 183 n539, 218, 221-222 - Eugénie, Empress, 198 + Eugénie, Empress, 198 Evans, Mrs., 308 n869 @@ -18293,10 +18265,10 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Colonial and Indian Exhibition (1886), Cyprian lace at, 82 Industry, 1808, point d'Argentan at, 208 - (1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198; + (1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198; lace industry developed since, 392 (1855) (Paris) - Alençon point dress at, 198 + Alençon point dress at, 198 equipage of King of Rome at, 196 needle-point dress at, 245 (1859) (French). Report--cost of Brussels lace, 119 n339 @@ -18305,10 +18277,10 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. threads, comparative fineness of, 119 n339 Wadstena lace at, 280 1867 (Paris) - Alençon point dress at, 200 + Alençon point dress at, 200 Burano laces at, 58 Honiton lace at, 410 - macramé shown at, 79 + macramé shown at, 79 Mechlin lace at, 125 oyah at, 87 point gaze at, 123 @@ -18318,7 +18290,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Brussels lappet at, 411 Russian towels at, 283 Valenciennes lace at, 131 - 1889, point d' Alençon at, 201 + 1889, point d' Alençon at, 201 1900 (Paris), 268 Eyesight, effect of lace-making on, 112 n324 @@ -18337,7 +18309,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Fambri, Signor, 61 - "Fameuse poupée," 170 + "Fameuse poupée," 170 Fanciulle, 462 @@ -18346,17 +18318,17 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Farbeck, John, 300 Favier-Duboulay, correspondence of, with Colbert, re lace industry at - Alençon, 155 and n454, 189 + Alençon, 155 and n454, 189 Feather-stitch, 8 - Fécamp lace, 218 + Fécamp lace, 218 - Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n402 + Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n402 - Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n437 + Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n437 - Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99 + Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99 Felkin, Mr., cited, 447 @@ -18374,7 +18346,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Fielding quoted, 354 n1053 - Filet brodé à reprises, 20 + Filet brodé à reprises, 20 Fillesae, Marie, 157 n458 @@ -18413,7 +18385,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Fleming, Lady, 10 Flemish lace. (_See also_ Belgium _and_ Brabant) - arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 + arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 Barcelona lace imitated from, 91, 99 black lace exported, 117 n330 cargo of smuggling vessel (1678), 117 @@ -18430,7 +18402,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. trade (seventeenth century), annual value of, in passemens, 209 n583; prohibited, 142 importance of industry of, 111 - Liège, 136-137 + Liège, 136-137 "Malines," a term for, 125 origin of, 109 types of, 115-116 @@ -18482,7 +18454,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Forbes, Miss Betsey, 432 n1209 - Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n1004 + Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n1004 Force, P. de la, cited, 254 and n682 @@ -18507,7 +18479,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. France. _For_ districts, towns, etc., _see their titles_ bobbin net introduced into, 187 customs of French ladies, 168-170 - états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183 + états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183 extravagant cost of lace ornaments (Louis XIV.), 153 Fairs in, 43 n136 Fashions @@ -18519,7 +18491,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Brussels lace at court of, 123 lace industry under, 184 morning costume under, 185 - point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 + point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 Florentine lace used in (1545), 67 imports of lace from, to England, forbidden by Queen Anne, 347 Italian guipures exported to, 75 @@ -18538,10 +18510,10 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. to England, 324 n935 Revolution in, effect of, on lace trade, 183 and n539, 223, 249, 368, 408 - Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 + Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 Spanish imports of lace from, 101 sumptuary laws in, 138 and n354, n355, 147 and n429, 149, 154 and n451 - tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137 + tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137 war with, effect of, on English lace industry, 386, 387 yellow starch, attitude towards, 318 and n909 @@ -18570,7 +18542,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. cheap lace, 187 and n546 Colbert's development establishment and history of the company (1668-1675), 157-158 - establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157 + establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157 immigration of Venetian workers, 159 n465 principal centres, 159 n464 pupils sent to Venice, 154-155 and n454 @@ -18612,7 +18584,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Furnesse, Sir Henry, 344, 347 - Fuseaux, dentelle à, 32 n98 + Fuseaux, dentelle à , 32 n98 Gabrielle de Bourbon, 8 n28 @@ -18638,12 +18610,12 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Gaston, Duke of Orleans, 8 n27 - Gaudronnées collerettes, 17 + Gaudronnées collerettes, 17 Geneva, rivalry of, with Mirecourt, 252 Genoa - Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79 + Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79 collars of, 74 earnings of lace-workers, 77, 78 embroidered lace of, 77; @@ -18653,7 +18625,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. lace of Cardinal Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Honiton reproduction of, 411 - point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n230, 74 + point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n230, 74 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 and n865 lace trade in, chiefly pillow, 47, 74; decline of, 74 @@ -18756,7 +18728,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Godard, Jean, quoted, 24, 146 n425 - Goderonné, term explained, 17 n57 + Goderonné, term explained, 17 n57 Godric, 6 @@ -18807,7 +18779,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Goldsmith, quoted, 70 n218 - Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n582 + Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n582 Gonzales, Don Manuel, cited, 380 and n1120, 403 n1146 @@ -18817,7 +18789,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Gormont, 464 - Goudronné, term explained, 17 n57 + Goudronné, term explained, 17 n57 Gozo, Maltese lace made at, 88 @@ -18863,7 +18835,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Grey, Lady Jane, anecdote of, 38, 297 - Grillé, 30 n89 + Grillé, 30 n89 Gripsholm, portrait of Queen Elizabeth at, 307 @@ -18871,7 +18843,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Gros point de Venise. _See_ Point de Venise, rose point - ---- René, 32 + ---- René, 32 Groslay lace, 210, 213 n589 @@ -18925,7 +18897,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. false, of Queen Elizabeth's time, 314 and nn fashion of wearing, 341 lace made from, 313; - horse-hair used in Alençon, 194; + horse-hair used in Alençon, 194; goats'-hair and rabbits'-hair lace, 245 wigs, 336, 349 @@ -19014,7 +18986,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ---------- (France), 140 and n396, 141 Henry IV. (France) - fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n501 + fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n501 Isle of Paris industry, probable connection with, 210 measures of, against luxury of dress, 141-142 and n405 shirt worn by, when assassinated, 142-143 and n412 @@ -19053,7 +19025,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Hippisley, Sir John Cox, quoted, 329; veil bequeathed to, 421 - Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74 + Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74 Hoche, General, 13 @@ -19061,7 +19033,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Holcroft, Mr., 169 n499 - Hölesom, 280 + Hölesom, 280 Holidays in Roman Catholic countries, 102 n302 @@ -19100,9 +19072,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Hope, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 423 - Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194 + Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194 - Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170 + Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170 Hove, Callys de, 306 @@ -19280,7 +19252,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Junius, Hadrianus, 114 n327 - Junot, Madame. _See_ Abrantès, Duchesse d' + Junot, Madame. _See_ Abrantès, Duchesse d' Jurdaine, Mary, 306 @@ -19326,7 +19298,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Koehler, statuette by, 262 - Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366 + Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366 La Boord, Madame, 43 @@ -19336,13 +19308,13 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. La Mancha, lace factory at, 102 - La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357 + La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357 - La Perrière, 155 n454, 157 n458 + La Perrière, 155 n454, 157 n458 "La Providence" nuns, 226 - La Vallière, 154, 464 n1280 + La Vallière, 154, 464 n1280 Laborde, cited, 151 n438 @@ -19407,7 +19379,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Launceston, lace-making at, 371 n1094 - Laval, Geneviève, 183 n540 + Laval, Geneviève, 183 n540 Laybach, 268 @@ -19437,7 +19409,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Lee, Rev. William, 448 n1240 - Lefébure, A. + Lefébure, A. blondes mates exported by, 226 point d'Argentan revived by, 208 quoted, 75 n237, 155 n453, 158 n463, 159 n464, 194, 200; @@ -19452,7 +19424,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ------, Duke of, 419 and n1176 - Léonard, 181 + Léonard, 181 Lepage, M., 134 @@ -19466,7 +19438,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Liedts, Baroness, 138 - Liège lace + Liège lace account of industry, 136-137 point de Sedan, connected with, 254 price of (1701), 136 n386 @@ -19513,7 +19485,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Linen embroidery of, 14 - macramé, 79 and n248 + macramé, 79 and n248 Lisbon, lace factories at, 105 @@ -19524,7 +19496,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Locke, quoted, 430 - Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n354, 174 n520 + Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n354, 174 n520 Lombard peasants, lace worn by, 64 @@ -19542,7 +19514,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Long Island, lace-making by Protestant settlers in, 372 n1099 - Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208 + Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208 Lonrai (Lonray), lace factory at, 155 n455, 156 and n457; sale of stock, 196 @@ -19561,7 +19533,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Lost property, advertisements for, 337 and n990, 338 and n992, 342 n1010 - Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226 + Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226 Loudun, 256 @@ -19576,9 +19548,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ------ XIV. census of (1684), 131 cravats presented to ambassadors by, 163 - death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192 + death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192 fashions of reign of, 161 _et seq._ - fête at Marly, 163 + fête at Marly, 163 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 gold and silver lace of period of, 154 Paris lace commerce under, 211 @@ -19592,13 +19564,13 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. mourning, 178 relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174 ruffles, 171-173 - point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n566 + point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n566 trousseau of eldest daughter of, 176 ------ XVI. fashions under, 179-181 phraseology of time of, 181 - point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 + point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 ruffles of, 172 n508 Louisa, Queen (Sweden), 279 @@ -19631,7 +19603,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Luxembourg, M. de, 167 - ----------, Maréchale de, 180 + ----------, Maréchale de, 180 Luynes, Duc de, Memoirs of, quoted, 174 and n518, 176 n522 @@ -19667,7 +19639,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. McPherson, quoted, 112 n324 - Macramé, 52, 79 and n247 + Macramé, 52, 79 and n247 Madden, Sir Fred., quoted, 297 n812 @@ -19692,7 +19664,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. _Malcontent_, quoted, 322 - Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n561, 251 n674 + Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n561, 251 n674 -------- lace. _See_ Mechlin lace @@ -19760,7 +19732,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Marnef, Hierosme de, 496 - Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n428, 265 n715 + Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n428, 265 n715 Marini, cited, 58 @@ -19768,7 +19740,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Marli, 180 and n532 - Marly, fête at, 163 + Marly, fête at, 163 Marriott, William, 380 @@ -19798,7 +19770,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ----, Queen of Hungary, 113 - ---- de Médicis + ---- de Médicis collarette of, 143-144 death of, 149 fashion dolls sent to, 170 n501 @@ -19854,7 +19826,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Mazzarine, 343 and n1017 Mechlin lace - arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 + arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 "Broderie de Malines" a term for, 125 characteristic of, 31, 125 compared with Bayeux lace, 228; @@ -19881,7 +19853,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Medici collars, 56 - Médicis family (_See also_ Katherine _and_ Mary), influence on fashions, + Médicis family (_See also_ Katherine _and_ Mary), influence on fashions, 139 Melville, Sir Robert, 37 @@ -19910,12 +19882,12 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ----, S., quoted, 121 and n348, 170 n500, 171 and n502 - Méric lace, 212 + Méric lace, 212 Merli, Cav. Antonio, cited, 46 and n150, 47, 50, 462, 466, 468 n1291, n1292, 487 - Merli à piombini, 32 n98 + Merli à piombini, 32 n98 Mermaid's lace, 49 @@ -19929,7 +19901,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Meyer, Daniel, 496 - Mézières lace, 183 n539, 253, 254 + Mézières lace, 183 n539, 253, 254 Mezzo punto, 58 @@ -19955,7 +19927,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Greek lace made at, 85 Old Milan point, 65 punto di Napoli contrasted with point of, 71 - réseau of points of, 66 + réseau of points of, 66 wire lace industry at, 72 Milward & Co., 380 @@ -19973,14 +19945,14 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Modano, Tuscan, 52, 68 - Modène, Duchess of + Modène, Duchess of inventory of, quoted, 120 n344, 121 n347, 128 n363, 135 and n383, 175 n520, 213 and n590 ruffles of, 233 Modes, 31 - Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n442, 173 n515 + Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n442, 173 n515 Mompesson, Sir Giles, 318 and n914 @@ -20003,7 +19975,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Montargis, 256 - Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28 + Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28 Montchrestien, cited, 209 n583 @@ -20081,8 +20053,8 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Navarre, Queen of, accounts of, quoted, 67, 141 n406, 142 n409, n411 - Needle lace (_See also_ Point à l'aiguille) - Alençon known as "needle-point," 195 + Needle lace (_See also_ Point à l'aiguille) + Alençon known as "needle-point," 195 Irish, 443 method of making, 32 Queen Elizabeth's, 305 @@ -20098,7 +20070,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Netting, 20, 21, 52; machine net, 408 - Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n726 + Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n726 Neville, Mary, marriage clothes of, 291 n779 @@ -20179,11 +20151,11 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Orfreys, 3 n13 - Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n489 + Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n489 -------- Dukes of, inventories of, quoted, 120 n342, n344, 221 and n607 - Orléanois lace industry, 256 + Orléanois lace industry, 256 Orsa lace, 281 @@ -20279,7 +20251,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Pattern-books Belgium Antwerp (n. d.), 130, 463 - Liège (1597), 136, 488 + Liège (1597), 136, 488 cut-works, of (1591), 20 n62 earliest dated, 18; earliest known, 376 n1108 @@ -20294,9 +20266,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. (1549) 92 n269, 144, 464; (1581), 475 Mignerak's, 21, 22, 29, 144, 493 - Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490 - Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n43; - in St. Geneviève's library, 12; + Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490 + Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n43; + in St. Geneviève's library, 12; (n. d.), 468; (1530) 144, 461; (1546), 464; @@ -20403,7 +20375,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Penshurst, old needlework at, 11 - Penthièvre, Duc de + Penthièvre, Duc de Eu lace patronised by, 221 inventory of, quoted, 117 n333, 195 n549 wardrobe account of, quoted, 172 and n510, n511, 211 n588 @@ -20471,7 +20443,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. foreign names for, 32 n98 France, extension of industry in (seventeenth century), 159; trade crisis (1818), 187; - fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n584; + fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n584; gold lace of Paris, 212; first mentioned in French pattern-books, 494 Genoese, 74 @@ -20510,7 +20482,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Platteuse, work of, 122 - Plissés à la vieille, 127 + Plissés à la vieille, 127 Pluymers, Jean, 158 n460 @@ -20521,10 +20493,10 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. misuse of term, 32 varieties of, 33-35 - ------ à l'aiguille, 121; - gazée, 123. _See also_ Needle point + ------ à l'aiguille, 121; + gazée, 123. _See also_ Needle point - ------ d'Alençon + ------ d'Alençon Argentella, 193 and n555 Bayeux manufacture of, 228 Burano manufacture of, 62 @@ -20565,11 +20537,11 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. shaded tints introduced in, 201 and n567 specimens of, exhibited, 200, 201 time required in making, 198, 201 - Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59 + Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59 "vilain," 191 n551 ------ d'Angleterre - Angleterre à bride, 408 + Angleterre à bride, 408 Aurillac manufacture of, 247 Burano manufacture of, 62 butterfly and acorn pattern in, 408 @@ -20582,13 +20554,13 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Armada pattern lace worked in, 397 Burano manufacture of, 62 characteristic of, 207 - compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n571; + compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n571; with point gaze, 123; with Venetian lace, 203, 204 n571 description of, 203 ground in, 203 and n570, 204 n571, 207-208 industry - Alençon, connection with, 204 + Alençon, connection with, 204 embroidery, replaced by, 208 n580 Guyard's revival of, 204-205 number of lace workers (c. 1744), 205; @@ -20607,15 +20579,15 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ------ de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre - ------ à carreaux, 32 + ------ à carreaux, 32 - ------ à chaînette, 32 + ------ à chaînette, 32 ------ des champs (point de Paris), 35 ------ Colbert, 188 n548, 228 - ------ coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 _et seq._ + ------ coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 _et seq._ ------ de Dieppe. _See_ Dieppe @@ -20638,10 +20610,10 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ------ de Flandre (_See also_ Flemish lace), 111, 144-145 - ------ de France. (_See also_ Point d'Alençon) - description of, made at Alençon, 190 + ------ de France. (_See also_ Point d'Alençon) + description of, made at Alençon, 190 designs in, 158 n463 - équipage, de bain of, 168 + équipage, de bain of, 168 falbalas of, 167 and n492 industry centres of, 157 n459, 159 n459, 210-211 and n584 @@ -20658,11 +20630,11 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ------ Gaze, characteristics of, 123 - ------ de Gênes (Genoa) + ------ de Gênes (Genoa) collerette, 141 France, prohibited in, 148 n431, 154 and n451 history of, 72-73 and n230, 74 - "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42 + "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42 ------ de Hongrie, 265 @@ -20679,20 +20651,20 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. ------ de Paris, 32 and n93, 35, 210, 212 ------ plat, 105 n313, 118, 121 and n347, 122 and n350; - appliqué, 123 + appliqué, 123 ------ de raccroc, 120, 184, 226 ------ de Raguse, 41, 83 and n254, 84 - ------ à la Reine, 32 + ------ à la Reine, 32 ------ de Sedan. _See_ Sedan ------ tresse, 314 ------ de Venise - Alençon imitations of, 191 + Alençon imitations of, 191 characteristics, 123 England, importation to, prohibited, 358 France, prohibited in, 154 and n451 @@ -20702,12 +20674,12 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Moscow imitations of, 284 origin of, 49-50 - point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123 + point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123 point de Raguse so called, 83 resemblance of, to point d'Argentan, 203, 204 n591; to Le Puy lace, 245; to point de Sedan, 254 - "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41 + "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41 rose point (raised), 51 and n175, 62; price of, 57; Honiton reproduction of, 411, 416; @@ -20715,7 +20687,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Spanish conventual lace compared with, 93 theft of, 105 and n313 - ------ de Venise à réseau, 57, 58 + ------ de Venise à réseau, 57, 58 Pointeuse, work of, 122 @@ -20726,7 +20698,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Poking-sticks, 312 Poland - Alençon, trade with, 192 and n553 + Alençon, trade with, 192 and n553 point de Sedan imported to, 254 Pole, Lady, effigy of, 403 n1145, 405 @@ -20747,9 +20719,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Ponchel, du. _See_ Duponchel - Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n539 + Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n539 - Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n288 + Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n288 Ponto fiamengho, 111 @@ -20886,7 +20858,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Ratcliff, Lady, 294 n791 - Rättwik lace, 281 + Rättwik lace, 281 Ravenna, lace school near, 81 n248 @@ -20894,12 +20866,12 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Ray, cited, 67 - Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49; + Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49; cited, 83 Rebecq-Rognon, flax grown at, 118 - Récamier, Madame, 185 + Récamier, Madame, 185 Regency point, 388 @@ -20917,18 +20889,18 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Renaissance, cut-work of, 17 - René, Maître, 140 n395 + René, Maître, 140 n395 Renfrew, lace industry at, 433 - Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil) + Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil) Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n281 methods of making, 120-121 needle-made by hand, 406 n1151 - nosacé, 78 - specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n74 + nosacé, 78 + specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n74 uses of, 21 - Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59 + Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59 Restoring of old lace, 411, 412 @@ -20940,7 +20912,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Revel, grave-clothes in church at, 366 n1083 - "Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n134, 43, 104; + "Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n134, 43, 104; cited, 83, 188 Rheims lace, 253 @@ -20963,7 +20935,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Richelieu, Duke, 144, 149 - ----------, Maréchal de, 171 + ----------, Maréchal de, 171 Ripon, lace-making at, 371 and n1095 @@ -20987,7 +20959,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Roland, cited, 36 n113 - ------ de la Platière, quoted, 154 n451, 223 n608; + ------ de la Platière, quoted, 154 n451, 223 n608; cited, 245 n656 Romagna, lace-making in, 68 @@ -21022,7 +20994,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Rudd, Margaret Caroline, 352 - Rue, Abbé, cited, 6 + Rue, Abbé, cited, 6 Ruel, Sieur, 155 @@ -21053,7 +21025,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Russia embroidery of, 71 n222 - lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199; + lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199; from Saxony, 263 lace industry in, 283-284 @@ -21065,7 +21037,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Sabenqua, 97 - Sabière, M. de, 172 n505 + Sabière, M. de, 172 n505 Saffron Walden fair, 43 n137 @@ -21089,7 +21061,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. St. Eustadiole, 5 - Saint François Régis, 243 + Saint François Régis, 243 St. Gervais, 207 n577 @@ -21151,7 +21123,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. cited, 74, 118 n338, 125, 129, 135, 192, 210, 244, 246 n661, 247, 253 n677, 254 n681, n683, 262, 377 - Savinière, quoted, 153 and n443 + Savinière, quoted, 153 and n443 Savoie, Don Philippe, 143 @@ -21223,9 +21195,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Sedley, Sir Charles, 13 and n47 - Séez black laces, 196 and n562 + Séez black laces, 196 and n562 - Séguin, quoted, 113 n325, 139 n393; cited, 254 + Séguin, quoted, 113 n325, 139 n393; cited, 254 Select Society of Edinburgh, The, 429, 430 and nn @@ -21238,7 +21210,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Sevenges, Madame de, 290 - Sévigné, Madame de + Sévigné, Madame de bequest to, 183 n540 quoted, 154 n448, 162 n477, 366 n1084 @@ -21281,7 +21253,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Sicily, lace manufacture of, 80-81 - Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n579 + Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n579 Sidbury, lace school at, 414; lace lessons at, 416 n1170 @@ -21373,7 +21345,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. -------- of Polite Arts, 262 n702 - Sol, José, 484 + Sol, José, 484 Soldiers lace made by, 225 @@ -21389,7 +21361,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Soragana, Marchesa di, 486 - Sorbière, Mons. de, 70 + Sorbière, Mons. de, 70 Souche, Lady, 309 n870 @@ -21454,7 +21426,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Spratton, lace school at, 388-390 - Staël, Madame de, 180 + Staël, Madame de, 180 Stafford, Bishop, monument of, 405 and n1150 @@ -21536,7 +21508,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Genoa, 73 Ireland (192 A.D.), 435, 436 and n1220 Portugal, 105 - "Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43 + "Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43 Scotland, 422 and n1195, 424 Spain, 90, 97, 101 Turkey, 87 @@ -21565,7 +21537,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Switzerland, lace industry in, French refugees, settlement of, 269 mignonette made (1665), 35 - Neufchâtel. _See that title_ + Neufchâtel. _See that title_ origin of, 269 pattern books, 271 statistics of, 270 and n727 @@ -21617,7 +21589,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225, 73 n232; cited, 76 n238 - Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n113 + Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n113 Thelusson, Symphorien, 269 @@ -21647,15 +21619,15 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Tiverton, first machine net factory at, 408 - Toilé, 30 and n89 + Toilé, 30 and n89 - Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108 + Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108 Toledo, Donna Teresa de, 103 Tombs. _See_ Grave-clothes - Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n740, n742 + Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n740, n742 Toquet, 340 @@ -21804,7 +21776,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. value of Belgium monopoly, 132 and n376 wages and conditions of work, 233 point a misnomer for, 32 - réseau of, 66 + réseau of, 66 varieties of Alost (ground stitch), 133 Bailleul, 241 @@ -21856,7 +21828,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Veils, bridal, 78; English, fourteenth century, 285 - Vélay lace industry (_See also_ Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242; + Vélay lace industry (_See also_ Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242; 18th century, 244; thread used, 245 @@ -21896,7 +21868,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Verona, St. John, life of, executed in needlework at, 8 n26 - Veronese, Paul, _macramé_ in picture, by, 79 n248 + Veronese, Paul, _macramé_ in picture, by, 79 n248 Verulam, Lord, 101 and n289 @@ -21909,7 +21881,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. trousseau of, 392, 409 Victoria and Albert Museum - Alençon in, 193 n555 + Alençon in, 193 n555 Bock exhibits in, 23 n74 Cyprian lace in, 82 Danish embroideries in, 275 @@ -21929,7 +21901,7 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Syon Monastery cope in, 7 tape lace in, 116 - Villemarqué, cited, 229 n616 + Villemarqué, cited, 229 n616 Villiers, Dame Barbara, 328 @@ -21942,10 +21914,10 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Vimoutier, 204 Vinciolo, Frederick - Katharine de Médicis the patroness of, 11,17 + Katharine de Médicis the patroness of, 11,17 pattern book of, 49, 136, 144, 477-482, 487, 494 - Virginière, Blaise de, quoted, 140, 141 and n401 + Virginière, Blaise de, quoted, 140, 141 and n401 Vittoria, Sister Felice, 93 @@ -21959,9 +21931,9 @@ _Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. Vos, Martin de, engravings after, 106 and n268 - Vrai réseau, bride succeeded by, 406 + Vrai réseau, bride succeeded by, 406 - Vrillière, Mgr. de la, 162 n475 + Vrillière, Mgr. de la, 162 n475 Waborne lace, 300 and n819 @@ -22186,7 +22158,7 @@ Notes [10] Maspero, _The Dawn of Civilisation in Egypt and Chaldaea_ (ed. Prof. Sayce). - [11] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_ (trans. A. S. Cole). + [11] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_ (trans. A. S. Cole). [12] Lucan, _Pharsalia_, Book X. @@ -22205,24 +22177,24 @@ Notes [15] Strutt. - [16] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. + [16] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. - [17] Mrs. Bury Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. + [17] Mrs. Bury Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. [18] St. Giselle, Berthe's sister, founded many convents in Aquitaine and - Provence, and taught the nuns all manner of needlework (Lefébure, + Provence, and taught the nuns all manner of needlework (Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_). - [19] _Chronique Rimée_, by Philippe Mouskés. + [19] _Chronique Rimée_, by Philippe Mouskés. - [20] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. + [20] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. - [21] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. + [21] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. [22] It has been suggested that the embroidery was done by William's granddaughter, the Empress Matilda, widow in 1125 of Henry V., Emperor of Germany, and wife, by her second marriage, of Geoffrey, - Count of Anjou (Lefébure). + Count of Anjou (Lefébure). [23] Mr. Fowke states that the tradition which would make the tapestry the handiwork of Queen Matilda cannot be traced further back than @@ -22230,27 +22202,27 @@ Notes [24] Matt. Par., _Hist. Angl._, p. 473, Edit. Paris, 1644. - [25] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. + [25] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. [26] At Verona an artist took twenty-six years to execute in needlework the life of St. John, after the designs of Pollajuolo. [27] "Gaston, Duke of Orleans, established hot-houses and botanical gardens, which he filled with rare exotics to supply the needle with - new forms and richer tints" (Lefébure). + new forms and richer tints" (Lefébure). [28] We read, for instance, that Gabrielle de Bourbon, wife of Louis de - la Trémouille, "jamais n'estoit oyseuse, mais s'employoit une partie - de la journée en broderies et autres menus ouvrages appartenant à + la Trémouille, "jamais n'estoit oyseuse, mais s'employoit une partie + de la journée en broderies et autres menus ouvrages appartenant à telles dames, et y occupoit ses demoyselles dont avoit bonne - quantité, et de grosses, riches, et illustres maisons."--_Panegyric - de Loys de la Trèmoille par Jean Bouchet._ + quantité, et de grosses, riches, et illustres maisons."--_Panegyric + de Loys de la Trèmoille par Jean Bouchet._ Again Vecellio dedicates his "Corona" to Signora Nanni, not only on account of the pleasure she takes in works of the needle, but for "il diletto che prende in farne essercitar le donne de casa sua, - ricetto delle più virtuose giovani che hoggidi vivono in questa - città." + ricetto delle più virtuose giovani che hoggidi vivono in questa + città ." "It is usual here," writes a lady from Madrid in 1679, "for good families to put their daughters to ladies, by whom they are employed @@ -22262,13 +22234,13 @@ Notes De soie et d'or molt soutilment, Si i fait ententivement Mainte croisette et mainte estoile, - Et dist ceste chancon à toile." + Et dist ceste chancon à toile." --_Roman de la Violette._ "One day, seated in her father's room, she was skilfully working a stole and amict in silk and gold, and she was making in it, with great care, many a little cross and many a little star, singing all - the while this _chanson à toile_." + the while this _chanson à toile_." [30] In one of Edward I. we find a charge of eight shillings for silk bought for the embroidery work of Margaret, the King's daughter, and @@ -22276,7 +22248,7 @@ Notes a spindle, etc.--_Liber de Garderoba, 23 Edw. I._, Public Record Office. - In one of Edward III. the sum of £2 7s. 2d. is expended in the + In one of Edward III. the sum of £2 7s. 2d. is expended in the purchase of gold thread, silk, etc., for his second daughter Joanna.--_Liber Garderobae, 12-16 Edw. III._, Public Record Office. @@ -22307,9 +22279,9 @@ Notes [32] These are alluded to in the dialogue between Industria and Ignavia, as given in Sibmacher's "Modelbuch," 1601 (French translation): "La - vieille dame raconte l'histoire des concours de travail à l'aiguille + vieille dame raconte l'histoire des concours de travail à l'aiguille chez les anciens Espagnols; comme Isabelle, femme de Ferdinand, a - hautement estimé les travaux de l'aiguille." + hautement estimé les travaux de l'aiguille." The "Spanish stitch," so often mentioned, was brought in by Katharine, on her marriage with Prince Arthur, in 1501. We have @@ -22330,7 +22302,7 @@ Notes silver bone lace."--_Ibid._ Eliz. 5 & 6. The Spanish stitch appears in France with Henry II., 1557. "Pour la - façon d'ung gaban avec ung grant collet chamarrez à l'Espaignolle de + façon d'ung gaban avec ung grant collet chamarrez à l'Espaignolle de passement blanc," etc.--_Comptes de l'Argentier du Roy._ Archives Nat. K. K. 106. @@ -22351,8 +22323,8 @@ Notes materials appear in her accounts up to the year of her death, 1549. "Trois marcs d'or et d'argent fournis par Jehan Danes, pour servir - aux ouvraiges de la dicte dame."--_Livre de dépenses de Marguerite - d'Angoulême_, par le Comte de la Ferrière-Percy. Paris, 1862. + aux ouvraiges de la dicte dame."--_Livre de dépenses de Marguerite + d'Angoulême_, par le Comte de la Ferrière-Percy. Paris, 1862. "Elle addonoit son courage A faire maint bel ouvrage @@ -22363,14 +22335,14 @@ Notes Dessus la toile en maint trait L'or et la soie en pourtrait." - --_Ode à la Royne de Navarre_, liv. ii., od. vii. + --_Ode à la Royne de Navarre_, liv. ii., od. vii. [38] 1380. "Oeuvre de nonnain."--_Inventaire de Charles V._ [39] "My grandmother, who had other lace, called this" (some needlepoint) "nun's work."--_Extract from a letter from the Isle of Man_, 1862. - "A butcher's wife showed Miss O---- a piece of Alençon point, which + "A butcher's wife showed Miss O---- a piece of Alençon point, which she called 'nun's work.'"--_Extract from a letter from Scotland_, 1863. @@ -22388,13 +22360,13 @@ Notes [41] _Livre de Lingerie._ Dom. de Sera, 1581. "Donne, donzelle, con gli huomini."--Taglienti, 1530. Patterns which "les Seigneurs, Dames, - et Damoiselles ont eu pour agréables."--Vinciolo, 1587. + et Damoiselles ont eu pour agréables."--Vinciolo, 1587. [42] Jehan Mayol, carme de Lyon; Fra Hieronimo, dell' Ordine dei Servi; - Père Dominique, religieux carme, and others. + Père Dominique, religieux carme, and others. - [43] One in the Bibliothèque Impériale is from the "Monasterio St. - Germani à Pratis." + [43] One in the Bibliothèque Impériale is from the "Monasterio St. + Germani à Pratis." [44] He died in 1595. _Lives of the Earl and Countess of Arundel_, from the original MS. by the Duke of Norfolk. London, 1857. @@ -22434,31 +22406,31 @@ Notes Duchess of Somerset (1556), we find a smock wrought over with silk, and collar and ruffles of damask, gold purl, and silver. Again, in the household expenses of Marguerite de France, 1545, we find a - charge of "4 livres 12 sols, pour une garniture de chemise ouvré de - soye cramoisie pour madicte dame."--(Bib. Imp. MSS. Fonds François, + charge of "4 livres 12 sols, pour une garniture de chemise ouvré de + soye cramoisie pour madicte dame."--(Bib. Imp. MSS. Fonds François, 10,394.) About the same date (G. W. A. Eliz. 1 & 2, 1558-59) appear charges for lengthening one smocke of drawne work, 20s. Six white smockes edged with white needlework lace, 10s. To overcasting and edging 4 smockes of drawn work with ruffs, wristbands, and collars, three of them with black work, and three of them with red, etc. At the funeral of Henry II. of France, 1559, the effigy was described - as attired in "une chemise de toile de Hollande, bordée au col et - aux manches d'ouvraige fort excellent."--Godefroy, _Le Cérémonial de + as attired in "une chemise de toile de Hollande, bordée au col et + aux manches d'ouvraige fort excellent."--Godefroy, _Le Cérémonial de France_, 1610. [55] See FRANCE. [56] The pillow-bere has always been an object of luxury, a custom not - yet extinct in France, where the "taies d'oreiller, brodées aux + yet extinct in France, where the "taies d'oreiller, brodées aux armes," and trimmed with a rich point, form an important feature in a modern trousseau. In the inventory of Margaret of Austria, the gentle governess of the Low Countries, are noted-- - "Quatre toyes d'oraillers ouvrées d'or et de soye cramoysie et de + "Quatre toyes d'oraillers ouvrées d'or et de soye cramoysie et de verde. - "Autres quatres toyes d'oraillers faites et ouvrées d'or et de soye - bleu à losanges qui ont estées données à Madame par dom Diego de + "Autres quatres toyes d'oraillers faites et ouvrées d'or et de soye + bleu à losanges qui ont estées données à Madame par dom Diego de Cabrera."--_Corr. de l'Empereur Maximilien I. et de Marguerite d'Autriche_, par M. Leglay. Paris, 1839. @@ -22471,14 +22443,14 @@ Notes "One pair of pillow-beares of Holland work, wrought with black silk drawne work."--Nichol's _Royal Progresses_. - [57] _Goderonné_--_goudronné_, incorrectly derived from pitch + [57] _Goderonné_--_goudronné_, incorrectly derived from pitch (_goudron_), has no relation to stiffness or starch, but is used to designate the fluted pattern so much in vogue in the sixteenth century--the "gadrooned" edge of silversmiths. - 1588. Il avait une fraise empesée et godronnée à gros godrons, au + 1588. Il avait une fraise empesée et godronnée à gros godrons, au bout de laquelle il y avoit de belle et grande dentelle, les - manchettes estoient goudronnées de mesme. + manchettes estoient goudronnées de mesme. [58] They are introduced into the Title page of this work. @@ -22490,12 +22462,12 @@ Notes "26 virges de Kanting pro sudariis pro ille 47/8."--_G. W. A. Charles II._, 1683-4. - [61] Lacis, espèce d'ouvrage de fil ou de soie fait en forme de filet ou - de réseuil dont les brins étaient entre-lacez les uns dans les - autres.--_Dict. d'Ant. Furetière_, 1684. + [61] Lacis, espèce d'ouvrage de fil ou de soie fait en forme de filet ou + de réseuil dont les brins étaient entre-lacez les uns dans les + autres.--_Dict. d'Ant. Furetière_, 1684. - [62] Béle Prerie contenant differentes sortes de lettres, etc., pour - appliquer sur le réseuil ou lassis. Paris, 1601. See APPENDIX. + [62] Béle Prerie contenant differentes sortes de lettres, etc., pour + appliquer sur le réseuil ou lassis. Paris, 1601. See APPENDIX. [63] So, in the Epistle to the Reader, in a Pattern-book for Cut-works (London, J. Wolfe & Edward White, 1591), the author writes of his @@ -22513,46 +22485,46 @@ Notes alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching."--(See APPENDIX, No. 72). - [64] _Pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour + [64] _Pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak_, etc. Paris, 1605. See APPENDIX. [65] The inventories of Charles de Bourbon, ob. 1613, with that of his wife, the Countess of Soissons, made after her death, 1644 (Bib. - Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426), alone prove how much this _réseuil_ was in + Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426), alone prove how much this _réseuil_ was in vogue for furniture during the seventeenth century. - "Item un pavilion de thoille de lin à bende de reseuil blang et noir - faict par carel prisé, vi. l. t. (livres tournois). + "Item un pavilion de thoille de lin à bende de reseuil blang et noir + faict par carel prisé, vi. l. t. (livres tournois). - "Item quatre pentes de ciel de cotton blanc à carreaux. + "Item quatre pentes de ciel de cotton blanc à carreaux. - "Item trois pentes de ciel de thoille de lin à carreaux et raiseuil - recouvert avec le dossier pareil estoffe, et petit carreau à point - couppé garny de leur frange, le fonds du ciel de thoille de lin, + "Item trois pentes de ciel de thoille de lin à carreaux et raiseuil + recouvert avec le dossier pareil estoffe, et petit carreau à point + couppé garny de leur frange, le fonds du ciel de thoille de lin, trois custodes et une bonne grace et un drap pareille thoille de lin - à bandes de reseuil recouvert ... prisé xviii. l. t."--_Inv. de + à bandes de reseuil recouvert ... prisé xviii. l. t."--_Inv. de Charles de Bourbon._ "Item une autre tapisserie de rezeuil de thoile blanche en huit - pièces contenant ensemble vingt aulnes on environ sur deux aulnes + pièces contenant ensemble vingt aulnes on environ sur deux aulnes trois quarts de haute. - "Item une autre tenture de tapisserie de rézeau tout de leine (lin) - appliquée sur de la toille blanche en sept pièces contenant dix-huit + "Item une autre tenture de tapisserie de rézeau tout de leine (lin) + appliquée sur de la toille blanche en sept pièces contenant dix-huit aulnes de cours sur trois aulnes de haute. "Item trois pantes, fonds de dossier, les deux fourreaux de piliers, - la converture de parade, le tout en point couppé et toillé. + la converture de parade, le tout en point couppé et toillé. - "Item, une garniture de lict blanc, faict par carré d'ouvrage de - poinct couppé, le tout garny avec la couverte de parade, prisé la + "Item, une garniture de lict blanc, faict par carré d'ouvrage de + poinct couppé, le tout garny avec la couverte de parade, prisé la somme de soixante livres tournois."--_Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons._ [66] Dated 20 Feb., 1587. Now in the Record Office, Edinburgh. [67] 1781. "Dix-huit Pales de differentes grandeurs, tous de toile garnis - tant de petite dentelle que de filet brodé."--_Inv. de l'Eglise de + tant de petite dentelle que de filet brodé."--_Inv. de l'Eglise de S. Gervais._ Arch. Nat. L.L. 654. [68] _Point and Pillow Lace_, by A. M. S. (London, 1899). @@ -22564,22 +22536,22 @@ Notes [71] _Comptes de la Reine de Navarre_, 1577. Arch. Nat. K.K. 162. - [72] _Inventory of Catherine de Médicis_, Bonaffé. + [72] _Inventory of Catherine de Médicis_, Bonaffé. [73] Randle Holme, in _The School Mistris Terms of Art for all her Ways of Sewing_, has "A Samcloth, vulgarly, a Samplar." [74] In the Bock collection, part of which has since been bought for the - Victoria and Albert Museum, are specimens of "rézeuil d'or," or + Victoria and Albert Museum, are specimens of "rézeuil d'or," or network with patterns worked in with gold thread and coloured silks. Such were the richly-wrought "serviettes sur filez d'or" of Margaret of Austria. - "Autre servyette de Cabes (Cadiz) ouvrée d'or, d'argent sur fillez - et bordée d'or et de gris. + "Autre servyette de Cabes (Cadiz) ouvrée d'or, d'argent sur fillez + et bordée d'or et de gris. - "Autre serviette à Cabes de soye grise et verde à ouvrage de fillez - bordée d'une tresse de verd et gris."--Inventory already quoted. + "Autre serviette à Cabes de soye grise et verde à ouvrage de fillez + bordée d'une tresse de verd et gris."--Inventory already quoted. [75] "Le Gan," de Jean Godard, Parisien, 1588. @@ -22593,96 +22565,96 @@ Notes [79] "Passement, a lace or lacing."--_Cotgrave_. - [80] Not in those of Rob. Estienne, 1549; Frère de l'Aval, 1549; or + [80] Not in those of Rob. Estienne, 1549; Frère de l'Aval, 1549; or Nicot, 1606. Cotgrave has, "Dentelle, small edging (and indented), - bone-lace, or needlework." In Dict. de l'Académie, 1694, we find, - "Dentelle, sorte de passement à jour et à mailles tres fines ainsi - nommé parceque les premières qu'on fit etoient dentelées." + bone-lace, or needlework." In Dict. de l'Académie, 1694, we find, + "Dentelle, sorte de passement à jour et à mailles tres fines ainsi + nommé parceque les premières qu'on fit etoient dentelées." [81] _Comptes de l'Argentier du Roi_, 1557.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 106. - "Passement de fine soie noire dentelle d'un costé." "Passement + "Passement de fine soie noire dentelle d'un costé." "Passement blanc," "grise," also occur. [82] _Argenterie de la Reine_, 1556.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 118. - [83] _Dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, soeur du + [83] _Dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, soeur du Roi._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394, fol. 62. - [84] "Plus de delivré une pacque de petite dentelle qui est estez cousu + [84] "Plus de delivré une pacque de petite dentelle qui est estez cousu ensemble pour mettre sur les coutures des rideaux des ditz litz contenant 80 aunes."--Rec. Off., Edin. This custom of trimming the seams of bed-curtains with a lace indented on both sides was common throughout Europe. In the Chartley Inv. of Mary Stuart, 1586, one of the Vasquines (jackets) is described, "Autre de satin noir - descouppée a descouppemie dentelés." + descouppée a descouppemie dentelés." [85] 1577. "Pour deux aulnes de passement d'argent a hautte dantelle pour - mettre à ung renvers, au pris de soixante solz l'aulne. + mettre à ung renvers, au pris de soixante solz l'aulne. - "Pour une aulne de dentelle pour faire deux cornettes pour servir à + "Pour une aulne de dentelle pour faire deux cornettes pour servir à la dicte dame, quatre livres."--_Cptes. de la Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 162. [86] See APPENDIX. - [87] "Petits et grands passements; id. à l'esguille; id. faict au - mestier; id. de Flandres à poinctes; id. orangé à jour; id. de - Flandres satiné;" with "reseuil, dantelles, grandes et petites, or, + [87] "Petits et grands passements; id. à l'esguille; id. faict au + mestier; id. de Flandres à poinctes; id. orangé à jour; id. de + Flandres satiné;" with "reseuil, dantelles, grandes et petites, or, argent," etc.--_Inv. de Madame, soeur du Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234. - So late as 1645, in the inventory of the church of St. Médard at + So late as 1645, in the inventory of the church of St. Médard at Paris (Arch de l'Emp. L. L. 858), the word is used. We find, "Quatre tours de chaire de thoille baptiste, ung beau surplis pour le - predicateur, six autres, cinq corporaulx," all "à grand passement." - Also, "deux petits corporaulx à petit passement," and "trois tours - de chaire garnyz de grand passement à dentelle." + predicateur, six autres, cinq corporaulx," all "à grand passement." + Also, "deux petits corporaulx à petit passement," and "trois tours + de chaire garnyz de grand passement à dentelle." - [88] _Inv. apres le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de La Motte._--Bib. Nat. + [88] _Inv. apres le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de La Motte._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. [89] The French terms are more comprehensive:-- - Champ, fond travaillé à jour. + Champ, fond travaillé à jour. - Toilé, fleurs entièrement remplies, formant un tissu sans jour. + Toilé, fleurs entièrement remplies, formant un tissu sans jour. - Grillé, grillage, plein. Also flowers--but distinguished from toilé - by having little square spaces between the thread (_grillé_, + Grillé, grillage, plein. Also flowers--but distinguished from toilé + by having little square spaces between the thread (_grillé_, grating), the work not being so compact. - "On appelle couleuvre, une blond dont le toilé continue serpente - entre deux rangs de grillage."--_Roland de la Platière_ (the - Girondin). Art. Dentelle, _Encyclopédie Méthodique_. Paris, 1780. + "On appelle couleuvre, une blond dont le toilé continue serpente + entre deux rangs de grillage."--_Roland de la Platière_ (the + Girondin). Art. Dentelle, _Encyclopédie Méthodique_. Paris, 1780. [90] _Storehouse of Armory and Blason._ 1688. - [91] "Brides--petits tissus de fil qui servent à joindre les fleurs les - unes avec les autres dans l'espèce de dentelle qu'on appelle Point - de France, de Venise, de Malines."--_Dict de l'Académie._ + [91] "Brides--petits tissus de fil qui servent à joindre les fleurs les + unes avec les autres dans l'espèce de dentelle qu'on appelle Point + de France, de Venise, de Malines."--_Dict de l'Académie._ - [92] "Une robe et tablier, garnis d'une dentelle d'Angleterre à - picot."--_Inv. de decès de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. X. + [92] "Une robe et tablier, garnis d'une dentelle d'Angleterre à + picot."--_Inv. de decès de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,064. [93] "Une chemisette de toile d'hollande garnye de point de Paris."--_Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, veuve de - François de Simiane._ 1681. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. + François de Simiane._ 1681. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. - [94] "Cette dernière sorte de point se fait aux fuseaux."--_Dict. du P. + [94] "Cette dernière sorte de point se fait aux fuseaux."--_Dict. du P. Richelet._ Lyon. 1759. - [95] _Dict. d'Ant. Furetière._ Augmenté par M. Basnage. La Haye, 1727. + [95] _Dict. d'Ant. Furetière._ Augmenté par M. Basnage. La Haye, 1727. [96] 1656. [97] 1651. "Huit aulnes de toile commune garnies de neige."--_Inv. des - emubles de la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jésus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. + emubles de la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jésus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621. - "Neuf autres petites nappes; les deux premières de toile unie; la - troisième à dentelle quallifié de neige."--_Ibid._ + "Neuf autres petites nappes; les deux premières de toile unie; la + troisième à dentelle quallifié de neige."--_Ibid._ - [98] French, _dentelle à fuseaux_; Italian, _merli a piombini_; Dutch, + [98] French, _dentelle à fuseaux_; Italian, _merli a piombini_; Dutch, _gespeldewerkte kant_; Old Flemish, _spelle werk_. [99] French, _carreau_, _cousin_, _oreiller_; Italian, _tombolo_; Venice, @@ -22703,7 +22675,7 @@ Notes paillette d'or ou d'argent." In these significations it frequently occurs. We find with numerous others: - "1545. 55 sols pour une once bizette d'argent pour mectre à des + "1545. 55 sols pour une once bizette d'argent pour mectre à des colletz." "Six aulnes bizette de soie noire pour mettre sur une robbe, lv. @@ -22714,18 +22686,18 @@ Notes Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 106. "1579. Petite bizette d'or fin dentellez des deux costez pour servir - à desmanches de satin cramoisy" of Catherine de - Médicis.--_Trésorerie de la royne mère du roy._ Arch. Nat. K. K. + à desmanches de satin cramoisy" of Catherine de + Médicis.--_Trésorerie de la royne mère du roy._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 115. In the Chartley Inv. 1586, of Mary Stuart, is mentioned, "Un plotton de bisette noire." - [103] _Dict. de l'Académie._ + [103] _Dict. de l'Académie._ - [104] Campane, from sonnette, clochette, même grêlot. "Les sonnettes dont + [104] Campane, from sonnette, clochette, même grêlot. "Les sonnettes dont on charge les habits pour ornement. Les festons qu'on met aux - étoffes et aux dentelles."--_Oudin._ + étoffes et aux dentelles."--_Oudin._ [105] Public Record Office. @@ -22733,100 +22705,100 @@ Notes edges of a broader lace with a narrower, which was called to "campaner." - 1720. "Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle - d'Angleterre à raiseau, garni autour d'une campane à dents."--_Inv. + 1720. "Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle + d'Angleterre à raiseau, garni autour d'une campane à dents."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ - 1741. "Une paire de manches à trois rangs de Malines à raizeau - campanée."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle Marie Anne de Bourbon de + 1741. "Une paire de manches à trois rangs de Malines à raizeau + campanée."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle Marie Anne de Bourbon de Clermont._ Arch. Nat. X. 11,071. (Daughter of Mademoiselle de Nantes and Louis Duke de Bourbon.) - "Une coëffure de Malines à raizeau à deux pièces campanée."--_Ibid._ + "Une coëffure de Malines à raizeau à deux pièces campanée."--_Ibid._ In the lace bills of Madame du Barry, preserved in the Bib. Nat., - are various entries of Angleterre et point à l'aiguille, "campanée - des deux côtés" for ruffles, camisoles, etc. + are various entries of Angleterre et point à l'aiguille, "campanée + des deux côtés" for ruffles, camisoles, etc. - [107] 1759. "Huit palatines tant points que mignonettes."--_Inv. de decès + [107] 1759. "Huit palatines tant points que mignonettes."--_Inv. de decès de Louise Henriette de Bourbon-Conty, Princesse du Sang, Duchesse de - Orléans._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,077. + Orléans._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,077. - "Trente-vingt paires de manchettes, quatre coëffures, le tout tant + "Trente-vingt paires de manchettes, quatre coëffures, le tout tant de differents points qu'Angleterre, mignonettes que tulles."--_Ibid._ - [108] 1758. "Une paire de manchettes à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur - entoilage."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle Louise Anne de Bourbon Condé de + [108] 1758. "Une paire de manchettes à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur + entoilage."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle Louise Anne de Bourbon Condé de Charollais_ (sister of Mademoiselle de Clermont). Arch. Nat. X. 10,076. - 1761. "Fichus garnis à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur - entoilage."--_Inv. de Charlotte Aglaë d'Orléans, Princesse du Sang, - Duchesse de Modène_ (daughter of the Regent). + 1761. "Fichus garnis à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur + entoilage."--_Inv. de Charlotte Aglaë d'Orléans, Princesse du Sang, + Duchesse de Modène_ (daughter of the Regent). - 1789. Ruffles of blonde de fil appear also in the _Inv. de decès de + 1789. Ruffles of blonde de fil appear also in the _Inv. de decès de Monseigneur le Duc de Duras_. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440. [109] Mostly at Bayeux. - [110] "On employe aussi pour les coëffures de la mignonette, et on a - tellement perfectionné cette dentelle, que estant peu de chose dans - son commencement est devenue de consequence et même très chère, + [110] "On employe aussi pour les coëffures de la mignonette, et on a + tellement perfectionné cette dentelle, que estant peu de chose dans + son commencement est devenue de consequence et même très chère, j'entends, la plus fine qu'on fait sur de beaux patrons."--_Le Mercure Galant_, 1699. [111] "Guiper. Tordre les fils pendans d'une frange par le moyen de - l'instrument qu'on nomme guipoir, fer crochu d'un côté, et chargé de + l'instrument qu'on nomme guipoir, fer crochu d'un côté, et chargé de l'autre d'un petit morceau de plomb pour lui donner du poids."--Savary. [112] "Guipure. A grosse black thread covered or whipped about with silk."--Cotgrave. - "Guipure. Manière de dentelle de soie où il y a des figures de rose - ou d'autres fleurs, et qui sert à parer les jupes des dames.... Sa + "Guipure. Manière de dentelle de soie où il y a des figures de rose + ou d'autres fleurs, et qui sert à parer les jupes des dames.... Sa jupe est pleine de guipure."--_Dict. du P. Richelet._ 1759. [113] Roland. We cannot help thinking this a mistake. In the statutes of - the Passementiers, we find mention of buttons "à têtes de mort," or - would it rather be "tête de moire," from the black moire hoods - (têtes) worn by the Italian women, which were often edged with a + the Passementiers, we find mention of buttons "à têtes de mort," or + would it rather be "tête de moire," from the black moire hoods + (têtes) worn by the Italian women, which were often edged with a narrow guipure? - [114] Les lieux en France où il se fait le plus de guipures, sont - Saint-Denis-en-France, Villiers-le-Bel, Ecouën, Arcelles, + [114] Les lieux en France où il se fait le plus de guipures, sont + Saint-Denis-en-France, Villiers-le-Bel, Ecouën, Arcelles, Saint-Brice, Groslait, Montmorency, Tremblay, Villepinte, etc. [115] The sale of Guipures belonged to the master mercers, the workmanship to the passementiers boutonniers. We find in the _Livre Commode ou les Adresses de la Ville de Paris_ for 1692, that "Guipures et - galons de soye se vendent sur le Petit Pont et rue aux Febvres, où - l'on vend aussi des galons de livrées." + galons de soye se vendent sur le Petit Pont et rue aux Febvres, où + l'on vend aussi des galons de livrées." - [116] Godefroy. _Le Cérémonial de France_, 1610. _Sacre du Roy Henry + [116] Godefroy. _Le Cérémonial de France_, 1610. _Sacre du Roy Henry II._, 1547. [117] In 1549. _Ibid._ - [118] _Traité des Marques Nationales_, dar M. Beneton de Morange de + [118] _Traité des Marques Nationales_, dar M. Beneton de Morange de Peyrins. Paris, 1739. [119] In the Record Office, Edinburgh. [120] Une robe de velours vert couverte de Broderies, gimpeures, et - cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même. + cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même. - Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent. + Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent. - Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure + Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or. Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc. - Robe de weloux noyr semée geynpeurs d'or. + Robe de weloux noyr semée geynpeurs d'or. - [121] _Dictionnaire de l'Académie._ + [121] _Dictionnaire de l'Académie._ [122] 1536-44. Sir Fred. Madden. @@ -22852,23 +22824,23 @@ Notes [130] Roll. 1630. - [131] "Eidem pro novemdecem vir[=g] et di[=m] aureæ et argenteæ - pergame[=n] laciniæ pondent sexdecim un[=c] 2/[dram] 1/[scruple] + [131] "Eidem pro novemdecem vir[=g] et di[=m] aureæ et argenteæ + pergame[=n] laciniæ pondent sexdecim un[=c] 2/[dram] 1/[scruple] venet. ... pro consua[=t] ad ornan[=d] duas sedes utroque latere - thronæ in domo Parliament."--_Gt. Ward. Acc._ Car. II. xxx. and + thronæ in domo Parliament."--_Gt. Ward. Acc._ Car. II. xxx. and xxxi. = 1678-9. - In 1672-73 is an entry for "2 virgis teniæ pergame[=n]." + In 1672-73 is an entry for "2 virgis teniæ pergame[=n]." [132] Surtees' "Inventories." [133] Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621. - [134] _In the Recueil de pièces les plus agréables de ce temps, composées + [134] _In the Recueil de pièces les plus agréables de ce temps, composées par divers autheurs._ Paris, chez Charles Sercy, MDCLXI. The poem is dedicated to Mademoiselle de la Trousse, cousin of - Madame de Sévigné, and was probably written by one of her coterie. + Madame de Sévigné, and was probably written by one of her coterie. [135] The Cravates or Croates soldiers had a band of stuff round their throats to support an amulet they wore as a charm to protect them @@ -22917,20 +22889,20 @@ Notes [144] The centres of the lace manufacture before 1665 were:-- - BELGIUM Brussels, Mechlin, Antwerp, Liége, Louvain, Binche, + BELGIUM Brussels, Mechlin, Antwerp, Liége, Louvain, Binche, Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, Courtray, etc. FRANCE (Spread over more than ten Provinces)-- Artois Arras (Pas-de-Calais). French Flanders Lille, Valenciennes, Bailleul (Nord). - Normandy Dieppe, Le Hâvre (Seine-Inférieure). + Normandy Dieppe, Le Hâvre (Seine-Inférieure). Ile de France Paris and its environs. Auvergne Aurillac (Cantal). Velay Le Puy (Haute-Loire). Lorraine Mirecourt (Vosges). - Burgundy Dijon (Côte-d'or). + Burgundy Dijon (Côte-d'or). Champagne Charleville, Sedan (Ardennes). - Lyonnais Lyon (Rhône). + Lyonnais Lyon (Rhône). Poitou Loudun (Vienne). Languedoc Muret (Haute-Garonne). @@ -23067,10 +23039,10 @@ Notes [175] The whole furniture of a room taken from a palace at Naples, comprising curtains, and vallance of a bed, window curtains, toilet, etc., of straw-coloured laces, reticella, embroidered netting, etc.; - the price asked was 18,000 francs = £720. There was also much of the + the price asked was 18,000 francs = £720. There was also much of the rose point, and a handkerchief bordered with beautiful flat Venetian point of the same colour, forming part of a trousseau. 700 francs = - £28. + £28. [176] Taglienti (1530) has _groppi_, _moreschi_, and _arabeschi_; and _Il Specchio_ (1548), _ponti gropposi_. See also the Sforza Inventory, @@ -23105,7 +23077,7 @@ Notes [185] Venice noted "for needlework laces, called points."--_Travels Thro' Italy and France_, by J. Ray. 1738. - [186] Misson, F. M., _Nouveau Voyage d'Italie_, 4me édition. La Haye, + [186] Misson, F. M., _Nouveau Voyage d'Italie_, 4me édition. La Haye, 1702. [187] _Origine delle Feste Veneziane_, da Giustina R. Michiel. Milano, @@ -23123,7 +23095,7 @@ Notes _Mercure Galant_, 1709:-- "Il avoit un rabat de point de Venise.... Sa robe de damas noir avec - des grandes manches qui pendoient par derrière. Cette robe etoit + des grandes manches qui pendoient par derrière. Cette robe etoit garnie de dentelle noir." [192] _Letters from Italy._ So, in a play of Goldoni, who wrote in the @@ -23138,20 +23110,20 @@ Notes (_ballon_), so the art of making the needle Venice point was probably at an end. - [193] "La plus belle dentelle noire fait l'espèce de camail qui, sous un - chapeau noir emplumé, couvre leurs épaules et leur tête."--Madame du + [193] "La plus belle dentelle noire fait l'espèce de camail qui, sous un + chapeau noir emplumé, couvre leurs épaules et leur tête."--Madame du Boccage, 1735. _Lettres sur l'Italie._ "Quella specie de lungo capuocio di finissimo merlo pur nero, chiamato bauta."--Michiel. - [194] "L'île de Burano où l'on fabrique les dentelles."--Quadri, _Huit - Jours à Venise_. + [194] "L'île de Burano où l'on fabrique les dentelles."--Quadri, _Huit + Jours à Venise_. [195] _Technical History of Venetian Laces_, Urbani de Gheltof. Translated by Lady Layard. Venice, 1882. - _Origines de la Dentelle de Venise et l'École de Burano._ Venice, + _Origines de la Dentelle de Venise et l'École de Burano._ Venice, 1897. Traditions of lace-making were kept alive in Venice, Cantu and @@ -23162,7 +23134,7 @@ Notes [196] "Velleto (veil) uno d'oro filato. - "Payro uno fodrete (pillow-case) di cambria lavorate a gugia (à + "Payro uno fodrete (pillow-case) di cambria lavorate a gugia (à l'aiguille). "Lenzuolo (sheet) uno di revo di tele (linen thread), cinque @@ -23184,10 +23156,10 @@ Notes "Binda una lavorata a poncto de doii fuxi (two bobbins) per uno lenzolo."--_Instrumento di divizione tre le sorelle Angela ed - Ippolita Sforza Visconti_, di Milano, 1493, Giorno di Giovedì, 12 + Ippolita Sforza Visconti_, di Milano, 1493, Giorno di Giovedì, 12 Settembre. - [197] "La mità de uno fagotto quale aveva dentro certi dissegni da + [197] "La mità de uno fagotto quale aveva dentro certi dissegni da lavorare le donne." [198] Harl. MS. No. 1419. @@ -23196,9 +23168,9 @@ Notes [200] P. R. O. - [201] De la Mare, _Traité de la Police_. + [201] De la Mare, _Traité de la Police_. - [202] "Statuts, Ordonnances et Reglemens de la Communauté des Maistres + [202] "Statuts, Ordonnances et Reglemens de la Communauté des Maistres Passementiers, etc., de Paris, confirmez sur les anciens Statuts du 23 mars 1558." Paris, 1719. @@ -23206,14 +23178,14 @@ Notes [204] _Voyage en Italie._ 1765. - [205] Peuchet, J., _Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante._ + [205] Peuchet, J., _Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante._ Paris, An vii. = 1799. [206] _Letters from Italy_, by a lady. 1770. - "Questo collar scolpì la donna mia + "Questo collar scolpì la donna mia De basso rilevar, ch' Aracne mai, - E chi la vinse nol faria più bello. + E chi la vinse nol faria più bello. Mira quel bel fogliame, ch' un acanto Sembra, che sopra un mur vada carponi. Mira quei fior, ch' un candido ne cade @@ -23236,7 +23208,7 @@ Notes [209] 4 Hen. VII. = 1488-89. - [210] _Compte des dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, + [210] _Compte des dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, Soeur du Roi._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394. [211] _Comptes de la Reine de Navarre._--Arch. Nat., K. K. 170. @@ -23247,7 +23219,7 @@ Notes [214] See VENICE, 1. - [215] _Inventaire du Trésor de N. D. de Lorette._--Bib. Nat. MSS. + [215] _Inventaire du Trésor de N. D. de Lorette._--Bib. Nat. MSS. [216] _Letters from Italy._ @@ -23302,32 +23274,32 @@ Notes [228] _Garderobe de feue Madame._ 1646. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. - [229] Le Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de Chevalerie. Paris, 1648. + [229] Le Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de Chevalerie. Paris, 1648. [230] Queen Christina is described by the Grande Mademoiselle, on the occasion of her visit, as wearing "au cou, un mouchoir de point de - Gênes, noué avec un ruban couleur de feu."--_Mém. de Mademoiselle de + Gênes, noué avec un ruban couleur de feu."--_Mém. de Mademoiselle de Montpensier._ "Item, ung peignoir, tablier et cornette de toile baptiste garnie de - point de Gênes."--1644. _Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons._ + point de Gênes."--1644. _Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons._ - "Un petit manteau brodé et son collet de point de Gênes."--_The + "Un petit manteau brodé et son collet de point de Gênes."--_The Chevalier d'Albret._ - "Linge, bijoux et points de Gênes."--Loret, _Muse Historique_. 1650. + "Linge, bijoux et points de Gênes."--Loret, _Muse Historique_. 1650. - "Item, ung autre mouchoir de point de Gênes."--_Inv. du Maréchal de + "Item, ung autre mouchoir de point de Gênes."--_Inv. du Maréchal de La Motte._ 1657. - [231] _Mém._, t. xiv., p. 286. + [231] _Mém._, t. xiv., p. 286. [232] Signore Tessada has in his possession a pair of gold lappets of very beautiful design, made at Genoa about the year 1700. [233] _Letters from Italy._ 1770. - [234] Cavasco. _Statistique de Gênes._ 1840. + [234] Cavasco. _Statistique de Gênes._ 1840. [235] The bobbins appear to have been made in Italy of various materials. We have _Merletti a fusi_, in which case they are of wood. The @@ -23336,13 +23308,13 @@ Notes lead was used for bobbins in Italy. See PARASOLE (1600). [236] _Memorie Storiche di Santa Margherita._ Genoese pillow-laces are not - made with the réseau, but joined by bars. Of Milan lace it is said, + made with the réseau, but joined by bars. Of Milan lace it is said, "It resembles Genoese pillow-lace in having the same scrolls and flowers formed by a ribbon in close stitch, with a _mesh_ or _tulle_ ground, whereas the Genoese lace is held together by bars."--C. di Brazza, _Old and New Lace in Italy_ (1893). - [237] Lefébure writes, "A version of these Milanese laces has been + [237] Lefébure writes, "A version of these Milanese laces has been produced by using tape for the scroll forms and flowers, and filling in the open portions between the tapes by needlework stitches." The C. di Brazza calls similar lace _Punto di Rapallo_ or _Liguria_, a @@ -23382,7 +23354,7 @@ Notes of Lace_, 1864). Contessa di Brazza suggests that Argentella was the Italian for Argentan. - [245] Called by the people of the Riviera, _filo del baccalà di + [245] Called by the people of the Riviera, _filo del baccalà di Castellaro_. Aloe fibre was formerly used for thread (Letter of Sig. C. G. Schiappapietra). It is also styled _filo di freta_ in the Venetian sumptuary ordinances. @@ -23407,7 +23379,7 @@ Notes Sebastian Ricci, in which the tablecloth is edged with cut-work; and in the great picture in the Louvre, by Paul Veronese, of the supper at the house of Simon the Canaanite, the ends of the tablecloth are - likewise fringed and braided like the _macramé_. + likewise fringed and braided like the _macramé_. [249] LACE SCHOOLS IN ITALY.--At Coccolia, near Ravenna, Countess Pasolini founded a school on her property to teach and employ the peasant @@ -23439,11 +23411,11 @@ Notes [254] Points de Raguse--first mentioned in an Edict of January, 1654, by which the king raises for his own profit one quarter of the value of the "passems, dentelles, points coupez de Flandres, pointinars, - points de Venise, de Raguse, de Gênes," etc. (_Recueil des Lois - Françaises_). Again, the Ordinance of August, 1665, establishes the - points de France, "en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, - Gênes, Raguse, et autres pays étrangers," recited in the _Arrêt_ of - Oct. 12th, 1666.--De Lamare, _Traité de la Police_. + points de Venise, de Raguse, de Gênes," etc. (_Recueil des Lois + Françaises_). Again, the Ordinance of August, 1665, establishes the + points de France, "en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, + Gênes, Raguse, et autres pays étrangers," recited in the _Arrêt_ of + Oct. 12th, 1666.--De Lamare, _Traité de la Police_. [255] See VENICE. @@ -23471,7 +23443,7 @@ Notes [263] "A lace of similar character (Maltese) has also been made successfully in the missionary schools at Madras" (Mrs. Palliser). - [264] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. + [264] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. [265] In the Philippine Islands the natives work Manilla grass into a sort of drawn thread-work or tatting. @@ -23517,20 +23489,20 @@ Notes vestue de drap noir avec de la dentelle de soye; elle n'avait ni dentelle ni linge autour de sa gorge." - [277] _Mercure François._ + [277] _Mercure François._ [278] They have also provided-- "14 ruffs & 14 pairs of - cuffs laced, at 20s. £14 + cuffs laced, at 20s. £14 For lacing 8 hats for the footmen with silver - parchment lace, at 3s. £1 4s." + parchment lace, at 3s. £1 4s." _Extraordinary Expenses of his Highness to Spain_, 1623. P. R. O. - [279] Doctor Monçada, in 1660, and Osorio, in 1686, reckoned more than + [279] Doctor Monçada, in 1660, and Osorio, in 1686, reckoned more than three millions of Spaniards who, though well dressed, wore no shirts.--_Townsend's Spain._ @@ -23540,53 +23512,53 @@ Notes [281] Our English translation of _Don Quixote_ has led some authors into adducing a passage as an evidence that the art of making bone lace was already known in Cervantes' day. "Sanchica," writes Theresa - Pança to her husband, the newly-appointed Governor of Baratava, + Pança to her husband, the newly-appointed Governor of Baratava, "makes bone lace, and gets eight maravedis a day, which she drops into a tin box to help towards household stuff. But now that she is a governor's daughter, you will give her a fortune, and she will not have to work for it." In referring to the original Spanish we find the words rendered bone lace are "puntas de randas," signifying - works of lacis or réseuil--"ouvrage de lacis ou réseuil."--Oudin. - _Trésor des Deux Langues Fr. et Esp._ (1660). + works of lacis or réseuil--"ouvrage de lacis ou réseuil."--Oudin. + _Trésor des Deux Langues Fr. et Esp._ (1660). [282] As early as the Great Wardrobe Account of Queen Elizabeth, 1587, P. - R. O., we have a charge for bobbin lace of Spanish silk, "cum uñ + R. O., we have a charge for bobbin lace of Spanish silk, "cum uñ tag," for the mantle, 10s. 8d. In a letter from Prestwick Eaton to Geo. Willingham, 1631, the - writer sends 1000 reals (£25), and in return desires him to send, + writer sends 1000 reals (£25), and in return desires him to send, together with a mastiff dog, some black satin lace for a Spanish suit.--_State Papers, Domestic_, Car. I., P. R. O. [283] 1697. Marriage of Mademoiselle and the King of Spain. The Queen, says the _Mercure_, wore "une mante de point d'Espagne d'or, neuf - aunes de long." 1698. Fête at Versailles on the marriage of the Duc + aunes de long." 1698. Fête at Versailles on the marriage of the Duc de Bourgogne. "La Duchesse de Bourgogne pourtoit un petit tablier de - point d'Espagne de mille pistoles."--_Galérie de l'ancienne Cour; ou - Mém. des Règnes de Louis XIV. et Louis XV._, 1788. + point d'Espagne de mille pistoles."--_Galérie de l'ancienne Cour; ou + Mém. des Règnes de Louis XIV. et Louis XV._, 1788. 1722. Ball at the Tuileries. "Tous les seigneurs etaient en habits de drap d'or ou d'argent garnis de points d'Espagne, avec des noeuds - d'épaule, et tout l'ajustement à proportion. Les moindres etaient de + d'épaule, et tout l'ajustement à proportion. Les moindres etaient de velours, avec des points d'Espagne d'or et d'argent."--_Journal de Barbier_, 1718-62. - 1722. "J'ai vu en même temps le carosse que le roi fait faire pour + 1722. "J'ai vu en même temps le carosse que le roi fait faire pour entrer dans Reims, il sera aussi d'une grande magnificence. Le - dedans est tout garni d'un velours à ramage de points d'Espagne + dedans est tout garni d'un velours à ramage de points d'Espagne d'or."--_Ibid._ 1731. Speaking of her wedding-dress, Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, the - witty sister of Frederick the Great, writes: "Ma robe étoit d'une - étoffe d'or fort riche, avec un point d'Espagne d'or, et ma queue - étoit de douze aunes de long."--_Mémoires._ + witty sister of Frederick the Great, writes: "Ma robe étoit d'une + étoffe d'or fort riche, avec un point d'Espagne d'or, et ma queue + étoit de douze aunes de long."--_Mémoires._ - 1751. Fête at Versailles on the birth of the Duc de Bourgogne. The - coats of the "gens de cour, en étoffes d'or de grand prix ou en - velours de tout couleurs, brodés d'or, ou garnis de point d'Espagne + 1751. Fête at Versailles on the birth of the Duc de Bourgogne. The + coats of the "gens de cour, en étoffes d'or de grand prix ou en + velours de tout couleurs, brodés d'or, ou garnis de point d'Espagne d'or."--_Journal de Barbier._ - [284] _Fenix de Cataluña, compendio desus Antiguas Grandezas y Medio para + [284] _Fenix de Cataluña, compendio desus Antiguas Grandezas y Medio para Renovarlas_, Barcelona, 1683, p. 75. [285] In the reign of William and Mary, we find, in a lace-man's bill of @@ -23605,14 +23577,14 @@ Notes with silver point d'Espagne."--_Letters of the Countess of Hartford to the Countess of Pomfret_, 1740. - [286] Marquis de la Gombardière, 1634, _Nouveau Réglement Général des + [286] Marquis de la Gombardière, 1634, _Nouveau Réglement Général des Finances_, etc. [287] "Eighty children and grandchildren attended his funeral in defiance of the Edict of 19th Sept., 1664, and were heavily fined."--_La France Protestante_, par M. M. Haag. Paris, 1846-59. - [288] Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre. Arch. Nat. K. K. + [288] Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390-1. [289] Lord Verulam on the treaty of commerce with the Emperor Maximilian. @@ -23623,10 +23595,10 @@ Notes [292] Madrid, 1775. - [293] _Itinéraire de l'Espagne_, Comte Alph. de Laborde, t. v. + [293] _Itinéraire de l'Espagne_, Comte Alph. de Laborde, t. v. - [294] Peuchet (_Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante_, An. - vii. = 1799), speaking of Barcelona, says their laces are "façon de + [294] Peuchet (_Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante_, An. + vii. = 1799), speaking of Barcelona, says their laces are "façon de France," but inferior in beauty and quality. The fabrication is considerable, employing 2,000 women in the towns and villages east of Barcelona. They are sold in Castile, Andalusia, and principally @@ -23674,7 +23646,7 @@ Notes "The second is 'encaje de Almagro'--little children of six and seven years old are taught to make it."--_Letter from Spain_, 1901. - [306] "On met de la dentelle brodée de couleur de points d'Espagne aux + [306] "On met de la dentelle brodée de couleur de points d'Espagne aux jupes"--_Mercure Galant._ [307] _Recherches sur le Commerce, la Fabrication et l'Usage des Etoffes @@ -23717,7 +23689,7 @@ Notes "The places in Portugal where the lace industry is chiefly exercised are Peniche, Vianna do Castello, Setubal, a village in Algarve called Faro, and at the present time Lisbon, where, under the help - and patronage of H. M. the Queen, a lace dépot has been instituted, + and patronage of H. M. the Queen, a lace dépot has been instituted, in which I have worked for ten years, seeking to raise the Portuguese lace industry to an art. The designs being entirely my own original ones, I am trying to give them a character in unison @@ -23734,12 +23706,12 @@ Notes [317] Those in the collegiate church of St. Peter's, at Louvain, and in the church of St. Gomar, at Lierre (Antwerp Prov.).--Aubry. - [318] Baron Reiffenberg, in _Mémoires de l'Académie de Bruxelles_. 1820. + [318] Baron Reiffenberg, in _Mémoires de l'Académie de Bruxelles_. 1820. [319] Engraved by Collaert. Bib. Nat. Grav. - [320] _Louvain dans le passé et dans le présent, formation de la ville, - événements memorables, territoire, topographie, institutions, + [320] _Louvain dans le passé et dans le présent, formation de la ville, + événements memorables, territoire, topographie, institutions, monuments, oeuvres d'art_, page 330, by Edward van Even, published 1895. @@ -23763,7 +23735,7 @@ Notes Antwerpiensis Urbium Belgicarum Centuria._ Antw. 1651. 1 vol., 4to. Bib. Royale, Brussels. - [323] Alençon excepted. + [323] Alençon excepted. [324] It is said to destroy the eyesight. "I was told by a gentleman well acquainted with Flanders," says McPherson, "that they were @@ -23771,19 +23743,19 @@ Notes Commerce_, 1785. [325] Together with the cap is preserved a parchment with this - inscription: "Gorro que perteneccio à Carlos Quinto, emperad. Guarda + inscription: "Gorro que perteneccio à Carlos Quinto, emperad. Guarda lo, hijo mio, es memoria de Juhan de Garnica." ("Cap which belonged to the Emperor Charles V. Keep it, my son, in remembrance of John de Garnica"). J. de Garnica was treasurer to Philip II. - Séguin, however, is of opinion that this cap belonged to one of + Séguin, however, is of opinion that this cap belonged to one of Charles V.'s successors:-- - "Ce bonnet ... a dû appartenir très certainement à un de ses - successeurs (of Charles V.), à cause que ce bonnet se trouve coupé - et encadré par un petit entre-deux de guipure au fuseau, façon point - de Gênes, qui ne pouvait pas avoir été fait du temps de Charles - Quint."--Séguin, _La Dentelle_. + "Ce bonnet ... a dû appartenir très certainement à un de ses + successeurs (of Charles V.), à cause que ce bonnet se trouve coupé + et encadré par un petit entre-deux de guipure au fuseau, façon point + de Gênes, qui ne pouvait pas avoir été fait du temps de Charles + Quint."--Séguin, _La Dentelle_. [326] Married, 1599, Albert, Archduke of Austria. @@ -23807,25 +23779,25 @@ Notes [331] Mercure Galant. 1678. - [332] "Le corsage et les manches étaient bordés d'une blanche et légère - dentelle, sortie à coup sûr des meilleures manufactures + [332] "Le corsage et les manches étaient bordés d'une blanche et légère + dentelle, sortie à coup sûr des meilleures manufactures d'Angleterre." [333] We have, however, one entry in the Wardrobe Accounts of the Duc de - Penthièvre: "1738. Onze aunes d'Angleterre de Flandre." + Penthièvre: "1738. Onze aunes d'Angleterre de Flandre." [334] _Mercure Galant._ 1678. [335] "Deux paires de manchettes et une cravatte de point d'Angleterre."--_Inventaire d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, - veuve de François de Simiane._ Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. + veuve de François de Simiane._ Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. - [336] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. Mich. Philippine de la Vrillière, - Patriarche, Archevêque de Bourges_, 1694. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. + [336] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. Mich. Philippine de la Vrillière, + Patriarche, Archevêque de Bourges_, 1694. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. "Une toilette et sa touaille avec un peignoir de point - d'Angleterre."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Charollais._ 1758. + d'Angleterre."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Charollais._ 1758. Arch. Nat. [337] _Mrs. Calderwood's Journey through Holland and Belgium_, 1756. @@ -23837,8 +23809,8 @@ Notes the waters of the Lys rendering them peculiarly fitted for the purpose. Savary states that fine thread was first spun at Mechlin. - [339] It is often sold at £240 per lb., and in the Report of the French - Exhibition of 1859 it is mentioned as high as £500 (25,000fr. the + [339] It is often sold at £240 per lb., and in the Report of the French + Exhibition of 1859 it is mentioned as high as £500 (25,000fr. the kilogramme). No wonder that so much thread is made by machinery, and that Scotch cotton thread is so generally used, except for the choicest laces. But machine-made thread has never attained the @@ -23856,43 +23828,43 @@ Notes [341] _Comptes de Madame du Barry._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8157 and 8. [342] "Trois aubes de batiste garnies de grande dentelle de gros point - d'Angleterre."--_Inv. des Meubles, etc., de Louis, Duc d'Orléans, - decedé 4 fev. 1752._ (Son of the Regent.) Arch. Nat. X. 10,075. + d'Angleterre."--_Inv. des Meubles, etc., de Louis, Duc d'Orléans, + decedé 4 fev. 1752._ (Son of the Regent.) Arch. Nat. X. 10,075. - "Deux aubes de point d'Angleterre servant à Messieurs les curez. + "Deux aubes de point d'Angleterre servant à Messieurs les curez. - "Une autre aube à dentelle de gros point servant aussy à M. le - curé."--_Inventaire et Description de l'Argenterie, Vermeil Doré, - Ornemens, Linge, etc., appartenant à l'Oeuvre et Fabrique de - l'église Saint-Merry à Paris._ 1714. Arch. Nat. L.L. 859. + "Une autre aube à dentelle de gros point servant aussy à M. le + curé."--_Inventaire et Description de l'Argenterie, Vermeil Doré, + Ornemens, Linge, etc., appartenant à l'Oeuvre et Fabrique de + l'église Saint-Merry à Paris._ 1714. Arch. Nat. L.L. 859. - [343] "Une coëffure à une pièce d'Angleterre bride et réseau."--_Comptes + [343] "Une coëffure à une pièce d'Angleterre bride et réseau."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ - "1 aune et quart d'Angleterre mêlé."--_Ibid._ + "1 aune et quart d'Angleterre mêlé."--_Ibid._ [344] Mrs. Delany writes ("Corr.," vol. 2): The laces "I have pitched on for you are charming; it is grounded Brussels." - "Deux tours de gorge à raiseau, un tour de camisolle à + "Deux tours de gorge à raiseau, un tour de camisolle à bride."--1720. _Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,062-4. "Six peignoirs de toille fine garnis par en haut d'une vielle - dentelle d'Angleterre à raiseau."--_Inv. de decès de Monsieur - Philippe petit fils de France, Duc d'Orléans, Regent du Royaume, - decedé 2 décembre, 1723._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,067. + dentelle d'Angleterre à raiseau."--_Inv. de decès de Monsieur + Philippe petit fils de France, Duc d'Orléans, Regent du Royaume, + decedé 2 décembre, 1723._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,067. - The "fond écaillé" often occurs. + The "fond écaillé" often occurs. - "Une coëffure à une pièce de point à l'écaille; + "Une coëffure à une pièce de point à l'écaille; - "Une paire de manchettes de cour de point à raizeau, et deux devants - de corps de point à brides à écailles."--1761. _Inv. de la Duchesse - de Modène._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,082. + "Une paire de manchettes de cour de point à raizeau, et deux devants + de corps de point à brides à écailles."--1761. _Inv. de la Duchesse + de Modène._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,082. "Deux barbes, rayon, et fond d'Angleterre superfin fond - écaillé."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ See her _Angleterre_, Chap. + écaillé."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ See her _Angleterre_, Chap. XI. note 26. [345] To which machinery has added a third, the tulle or Brussels net. @@ -23901,69 +23873,69 @@ Notes the needle is passed four times into each mesh, whereas in the pillow it is not passed at all. - [347] "Trois oreillers, l'un de toille blanche picquée garnis autour de - chacun d'un point plat."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène._ + [347] "Trois oreillers, l'un de toille blanche picquée garnis autour de + chacun d'un point plat."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène._ [348] _Tableau de Paris_, par S. Mercier. Amsterdam, 1782. [349] "Fashion." J. Warton. [350] Brussels lace-makers divide the plat into three parts, the "mat," - the close part answering to the French _toilé_ (Chapter III.); _gaze - au fuseau_, in which small interstices appear, French _grillé_, and + the close part answering to the French _toilé_ (Chapter III.); _gaze + au fuseau_, in which small interstices appear, French _grillé_, and the _jours_, or open work. [351] The veil presented by the city of Brussels to the Empress Josephine was sold in 1816 by Eugene Beauharnais to Lady Jane Hamilton. It is described to have been of such ample dimensions that, when placed on Lady Jane's head--who was upwards of six feet high--it trained on - the ground. The texture of the réseau was exquisitely fine. In each + the ground. The texture of the réseau was exquisitely fine. In each corner was the imperial crown and cypher, encircled with wreaths of flowers. This _chef d'oeuvre_ passed into the possession of Lady Jane's daughter, the Duchesse de Coigny. [352] To afford an idea of the intrinsic value of Brussels lace, we give an estimate of the expense of a fine flounce (_volant_), of _vrai - réseau mélangé_ (point and plat), 12 metres long by 35 centimetres - wide (13¼ yards by 14 inches)-- + réseau mélangé_ (point and plat), 12 metres long by 35 centimetres + wide (13¼ yards by 14 inches)-- Fr. Cost of the plat 1,885.75 Needle-point 5,000 Open-work, _jours_ (_fonnage_) 390 - Appliqué (_stricage_) 800 - Ground (_réseau_) 2,782 - Footing (_engrêlure_) 1.27 + Appliqué (_stricage_) 800 + Ground (_réseau_) 2,782 + Footing (_engrêlure_) 1.27 --------- Total 10,859.02 --------- - = £434 7 6 + = £434 7 6 - Equals £36 3s. 9d. the metre, and the selling price would be about - £50 16s., which would make the flounces amount to £609 12s. + Equals £36 3s. 9d. the metre, and the selling price would be about + £50 16s., which would make the flounces amount to £609 12s. - [353] "Une paire de manchettes de dentelle de Malines brodée." + [353] "Une paire de manchettes de dentelle de Malines brodée." - "Quatre bonnets de nuit garnis de Malines brodée."--_Inv. de decès + "Quatre bonnets de nuit garnis de Malines brodée."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Charollais._ 1758. [354] _Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ 1720. - "1704. Deux fichus garnis de dentelle de Malines à bride ou rézeau. + "1704. Deux fichus garnis de dentelle de Malines à bride ou rézeau. - "Une cravatte avec les manchettes de point de Malines à bride. + "Une cravatte avec les manchettes de point de Malines à bride. - "Deux autres cravattes de dentelle de Malines à rézeau et trois - paires de manchettes de pareille dentelle."--_Inv. de Franç. + "Deux autres cravattes de dentelle de Malines à rézeau et trois + paires de manchettes de pareille dentelle."--_Inv. de Franç. Phelypeaux Loisel._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,459. - [355] _Inv. de decès de Madame Anne, Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de - Condé._ 1723. Arch. de Nat. X. 10,065. + [355] _Inv. de decès de Madame Anne, Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de + Condé._ 1723. Arch. de Nat. X. 10,065. - [356] In the accounts of Madame du Barry, we have "Malines bâtarde à + [356] In the accounts of Madame du Barry, we have "Malines bâtarde à bordure." - [357] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de la Motte._ Bib. Nat. + [357] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de la Motte._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. "Quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de passement tant de Venise, Gennes, et de Malines." @@ -23975,53 +23947,53 @@ Notes [361] _Ibid._ - [362] "On chamarre les jupes en quiles de dentelles plissées."--_Mercure + [362] "On chamarre les jupes en quiles de dentelles plissées."--_Mercure Galant._ 1678. - "Un volant dentelle d'Angleterre plissée."--_Extraordinaire du - Mercure. Quartier d'Esté._ 1678. + "Un volant dentelle d'Angleterre plissée."--_Extraordinaire du + Mercure. Quartier d'Esté._ 1678. - [363] "1741. Une coiffure de nuit de Malines à raizeau campanée de deux - pièces. + [363] "1741. Une coiffure de nuit de Malines à raizeau campanée de deux + pièces. - "Une paire de manches de Malines brodée a raizeau campanée, un tour + "Une paire de manches de Malines brodée a raizeau campanée, un tour de gorge, et une garniture de corset."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle de Clermont._ - "1761. Une paire de manches de Malines bridés non campanée, tour de - gorge, et garniture de corset."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène._ + "1761. Une paire de manches de Malines bridés non campanée, tour de + gorge, et garniture de corset."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène._ - [364] "1720. Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle de Malines - à bride. + [364] "1720. Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle de Malines + à bride. "Deux peignoirs de toile d'Hollande garnis de dentelle, l'une - d'Angleterre à bride et l'autre de Maline à raiseau."--_Inv. de la + d'Angleterre à bride et l'autre de Maline à raiseau."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ "1750. Une dormeuse de Malines."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollais._ - "1770. 5½ grande hauteur de Malines pour une paire de manchettes, + "1770. 5½ grande hauteur de Malines pour une paire de manchettes, 264 francs. "1 au. jabot pour le tour de gorge, 16. - "5 au. ¼ Malines pour garnir 3 chemises au nègre à 12 fr." (The + "5 au. ¼ Malines pour garnir 3 chemises au nègre à 12 fr." (The wretch Zamor who denounced her.)--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ "1788. 6 tayes d'oreiller garnies de Malines."--_Etat de ce qui a - été fourni pour le renouvellement de Mgr. le Dauphin._ Arch. Nat. K. + été fourni pour le renouvellement de Mgr. le Dauphin._ Arch. Nat. K. 505, No. 20. "1792. 2 tayes d'oreillier garnis de maline."--_Notes du linge du - çi-devant Roi. Ibid._ No. 8. + çi-devant Roi. Ibid._ No. 8. "1792. 24 fichus de batiste garnis de Maline. "2 taye d'orilier garnis de Maline."--_Renouvellement de M. le Duc. de Normandie. Ibid._ - [365] An Arrêt, dated 14 Aug., 1688, requires that "toutes les dentelles + [365] An Arrêt, dated 14 Aug., 1688, requires that "toutes les dentelles de fil d'Anvers, Bruxelles, Malines et autres lieux de la Flandre - Espagnolle," shall enter only by Rousselars and Condé, and pay a + Espagnolle," shall enter only by Rousselars and Condé, and pay a duty of 40 livres per lb.--Arch. Nat. _Coll. Rondonneau._ [366] In the list of foreign Protestants resident in England, 1618 to @@ -24043,12 +24015,12 @@ Notes [370] See APPENDIX. - [371] _Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Deux-Nèthes_, par le Citoyen + [371] _Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Deux-Nèthes_, par le Citoyen Herbouville. An X. = 1802. [372] Their names are given: Veuves Mesele, Papegay, and Turck. - [373] Ypres Valenciennes was exhibited at £80 (the metre). The lace-maker, + [373] Ypres Valenciennes was exhibited at £80 (the metre). The lace-maker, working twelve hours a day, could scarcely produce one-third of an inch a week. It would take her twelve years to complete a length of six or seven metres, her daily earnings averaging two to three @@ -24058,17 +24030,17 @@ Notes [374] M. Duhayon Brunfaut, of Ypres. - [375] _Treille_ is the general term for the ground (_réseau_) throughout - Belgium and the Dép. du Nord. + [375] _Treille_ is the general term for the ground (_réseau_) throughout + Belgium and the Dép. du Nord. [376] France alone buys of Belgium more Valenciennes than all the other countries united; upwards of 12 millions of francs - (£480,000).--Aubry. + (£480,000).--Aubry. [377] At Ghent two turns and a half, and at Courtrai three and a half. Each town has its own peculiar stitch. - [378] _L'Industrie Dentellière Belge_, par B. v. d. Dussen, Bruxelles, + [378] _L'Industrie Dentellière Belge_, par B. v. d. Dussen, Bruxelles, 1860. [379] Robinson Crusoe, when at Lisbon, sends "some Flanders lace of a good @@ -24084,9 +24056,9 @@ Notes [383] "Une paire de manchettes de cour de dentelle de Binche; - "Trois paires de manchettes à trois rangs de dentelle de Binche; + "Trois paires de manchettes à trois rangs de dentelle de Binche; - "Deux fichus de mousseline bordées de dentelle de Binche; + "Deux fichus de mousseline bordées de dentelle de Binche; "Deux devants de corps de dentelle de Binche."--Arch. de Nat. X., 10,082. @@ -24097,69 +24069,69 @@ Notes [385] Letter of Sir Henry Wotton to Lord Zouch.--State Papers, Domestic, Jas. I., P. R. O. - [386] In the _Bulletin de l'Institut Archéologique_, Liègois XVIII., 1885, + [386] In the _Bulletin de l'Institut Archéologique_, Liègois XVIII., 1885, is a copy of a contract dated January 23rd, 1634, whereby a - lace-maker of Liège, Barbe Bonneville, undertakes for 25 florins, + lace-maker of Liège, Barbe Bonneville, undertakes for 25 florins, current money, to teach a young girl lace-making. Again, in the copy of a Namur Act of November, 1701, a merchant of - Namur orders from a Liègois "3 pieces of needle-made lace called - Venice point," to sell at the rate of 5½ florins, 4½ florins, and - one écu respectively. + Namur orders from a Liègois "3 pieces of needle-made lace called + Venice point," to sell at the rate of 5½ florins, 4½ florins, and + one écu respectively. [387] Arch. de Nat., Coll. Rondonneau. - [388] "Caïeteresses," from _caïets_, bobbins. + [388] "Caïeteresses," from _caïets_, bobbins. - [389] _Exposition de Liège_, par Chanoine Dubois, 1881. + [389] _Exposition de Liège_, par Chanoine Dubois, 1881. - [390] _Statistique du dép. de la Meuse-Inf._, par le Citoyen Cavenne. An. + [390] _Statistique du dép. de la Meuse-Inf._, par le Citoyen Cavenne. An. X. - [391] Liège in the seventeenth century numbered 1600 workers, and produced + [391] Liège in the seventeenth century numbered 1600 workers, and produced black and white laces which it exported to England, Germany and France. The rich clergy of the country also bought a large quantity. At the time of the Exhibition held there in 1881 the fabric had so declined that it was impossible to find a single piece of lace that had been made in the town. - [392] _Fil tiré_, drawn and embroidered muslin-work so fine as to be + [392] _Fil tiré_, drawn and embroidered muslin-work so fine as to be classed with lace, was made in Dinant in the religious communities of the city and the "pays" of Dinant before the French Revolution. - At Marche lace with flowers worked directly on the réseau is made, + At Marche lace with flowers worked directly on the réseau is made, and the lace of Yorck is also imitated--a lace characterised by additions worked on to the lace, giving relief to the - flowers.--_Exposition de Liège_, par Chanoine Dubois, 1881. The list + flowers.--_Exposition de Liège_, par Chanoine Dubois, 1881. The list of Belgian laces also includes "Les points de Brabant, plus mats, et plus remplis que les points de Flandres; les differentes dentelles - de fantaisie, non classées, puis les grosses dentelles de Couvin, en - soie noire, qui servaient jadis à garnir les pelisses des femmes de + de fantaisie, non classées, puis les grosses dentelles de Couvin, en + soie noire, qui servaient jadis à garnir les pelisses des femmes de l'Entre Sambre-et-Meuse."--_La Dentelle de Belgique_, par Mme. Daimeries, 1893. - [393] Italian fashions appeared early in France. Isabeau de Bavière, + [393] Italian fashions appeared early in France. Isabeau de Bavière, wearer of the oriental _hennin_, and Valentine de Milan, first introduced the rich tissues of Italy. Louis XI. sent for workmen from Milan, Venice, and Pistoja, to whom he granted various privileges, which Charles VIII. confirmed. - Lace, according to Séguin, first appears in a portrait of Henri II. + Lace, according to Séguin, first appears in a portrait of Henri II. at Versailles, a portrait painted in the latter years of his reign. "Les deux portraits de Francois I^{er} qui sont au Louvre n'en - laissent pas soupçonner l'usage de son temps. Aucun des autres + laissent pas soupçonner l'usage de son temps. Aucun des autres portraits historiques qui y sont, non plus que ceux des galeries de - Versailles de la même époque, n'en attestent l'existence, et le - premier où on la découvre est un portrait de Henri II à Versailles, - qui a dû être peint vers les dernières années de son règne. Le col, - brodé d'entrelacs de couleur, est bordé d'une petite dentelle bien - simple et bien modeste. Nous possédons des portraits authentiques - antérieurs au milieu du XVI^e siècle, des specimens incontestés des - costumes qui ont précédé cette époque, aucun de ces nombreux témoins + Versailles de la même époque, n'en attestent l'existence, et le + premier où on la découvre est un portrait de Henri II à Versailles, + qui a dû être peint vers les dernières années de son règne. Le col, + brodé d'entrelacs de couleur, est bordé d'une petite dentelle bien + simple et bien modeste. Nous possédons des portraits authentiques + antérieurs au milieu du XVI^e siècle, des specimens incontestés des + costumes qui ont précédé cette époque, aucun de ces nombreux témoins n'atteste son existence. - "Il faut reconnaître que l'origine de la dentelle n'est pas - antérieure au milieu du XVI^e siècle."--Séguin, _La Dentelle_. + "Il faut reconnaître que l'origine de la dentelle n'est pas + antérieure au milieu du XVI^e siècle."--Séguin, _La Dentelle_. Paris, 1875. [394] In Ulpian Fulwell's _Interlude_, 1568, Nichol Newfangle says-- @@ -24167,45 +24139,45 @@ Notes "I learn to make gowns with long sleeves and wings, I learn to make ruffs like calves' chitterlings." - [395] The Queen was accused by her enemies of having, by the aid of Maître - René, "empoisonneur en titre," terminated the life of Queen Jeanne + [395] The Queen was accused by her enemies of having, by the aid of Maître + René, "empoisonneur en titre," terminated the life of Queen Jeanne de Navarre, in 1571, by a perfumed ruff (not gloves--_Description de - la Vie de Catherine de Médicis_); and her favourite son, the Duke - d'Alençon, was said, cir. 1575, to have tried to suborn a valet to + la Vie de Catherine de Médicis_); and her favourite son, the Duke + d'Alençon, was said, cir. 1575, to have tried to suborn a valet to take away the life of his brother Henry by scratching him in the back of his neck with a poisoned pin when fastening his fraise. - [396] _Satyre Menippée._ Paris, 1593. + [396] _Satyre Menippée._ Paris, 1593. [397] _Chronologie Novenaire_, Vict. P. Cayet. [398] "S'ils se tournoient, chacun se reculoit, crainte de gater leurs - fraizes."--_Satyre Menippée._ + fraizes."--_Satyre Menippée._ - "Le col ne se tourne à leur aise + "Le col ne se tourne à leur aise Dans le long reply de leur fraise." - --_Vertus et Propriétés des Mignons_, 1576. + --_Vertus et Propriétés des Mignons_, 1576. [399] "Ces beaux mignons portoient ... leur fraizes de chemise de toute - d'atour empesez et longues d'un demi-pied, de façon qu'à voir leurs + d'atour empesez et longues d'un demi-pied, de façon qu'à voir leurs testes dessus leurs fraizes, il sembloit que ce fut le chef de Saint Jean dans un plat."--_Journal de Henri III._, Pierre de l'Estoille. [400] _Perroniana._ Cologne, 1691. - [401] "Goudronnées en tuyaux d'orgue, fraisées en choux crépus, et grandes - comme des meules de moulin."--_Blaise de Viginière._ + [401] "Goudronnées en tuyaux d'orgue, fraisées en choux crépus, et grandes + comme des meules de moulin."--_Blaise de Viginière._ - "La fraize veaudelisée à six étages."--_La Mode qui Court._ Paris, + "La fraize veaudelisée à six étages."--_La Mode qui Court._ Paris, n.d. - [402] "Appelez par les Espagnols 'lechuguillas' ou petites laitues, à - cause du rapport de ces gaudrons repliées avec les fraisures de la - laitue."--_Histoire de la Ville de Paris_, D. Mich. Félibien. + [402] "Appelez par les Espagnols 'lechuguillas' ou petites laitues, à + cause du rapport de ces gaudrons repliées avec les fraisures de la + laitue."--_Histoire de la Ville de Paris_, D. Mich. Félibien. - [403] "1575. Le roy alloit tous les jours faire ses aumônes et ses prières - en grande devotion, laissant ses chemises à grands goderons, dont il - estoit auparavant si curieux, pour en prendre à collet renversé a + [403] "1575. Le roy alloit tous les jours faire ses aumônes et ses prières + en grande devotion, laissant ses chemises à grands goderons, dont il + estoit auparavant si curieux, pour en prendre à collet renversé a l'Italienne."--_Journal de Henri III._, Pierre de l'Estoille. [404] No less than ten were sent forth by the Valois kings, from 1549 to @@ -24216,54 +24188,54 @@ Notes [406] Copper used instead of gold thread for embroidery or lace. The term was equally applied to false silver thread. - "1582. Dix escus pour dix aulnes de gaze blanche rayée d'argent - clinquant pour faire ung voille à la Boullonnoise."--_Comptes de la + "1582. Dix escus pour dix aulnes de gaze blanche rayée d'argent + clinquant pour faire ung voille à la Boullonnoise."--_Comptes de la Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 170. [407] Regnier, Math., _Ses Satyres._ 1642. - [408] The observation was not new. A Remonstrance to Catherine de Médicis, + [408] The observation was not new. A Remonstrance to Catherine de Médicis, 1586, complains that "leurs moulins, leurs terres, leurs prez, leurs bois et leurs revenuz, se coulent en broderies, pourfilures, passemens, franges, tortis, canetilles, recameurs, chenettes, - picqueurs, arrièrepoins, etc., qu'on invente de jour à - autre."--_Discours sur l'extrême cherté, etc., presenté à la Mère du + picqueurs, arrièrepoins, etc., qu'on invente de jour à + autre."--_Discours sur l'extrême cherté, etc., presenté à la Mère du Roi, par un sien fidelle Serviteur (Du Haillan)._ Bordeaux, 1586. - [409] "1579. Pour avoir remonsté trois fraises à poinct couppé, 15 sols. + [409] "1579. Pour avoir remonsté trois fraises à poinct couppé, 15 sols. - "Pour avoir monté cinq fraizes à poinct couppé sur linomple, les - avoir ourllés et couzeus à la petite cordellière et au poinct noué à + "Pour avoir monté cinq fraizes à poinct couppé sur linomple, les + avoir ourllés et couzeus à la petite cordellière et au poinct noué à raison de 30 sols pour chacune. - "Pour la façon de sept rabatz ourllés à double arrièrepoinct et + "Pour la façon de sept rabatz ourllés à double arrièrepoinct et couzu le passement au dessus. - "1580. Pour avoir faict d'ung mouchoir ouvré deux rabatz, 20 sols. + "1580. Pour avoir faict d'ung mouchoir ouvré deux rabatz, 20 sols. - "Pour deux pieces de poinct couppé pour servir à ladicte dame, VI + "Pour deux pieces de poinct couppé pour servir à ladicte dame, VI livres. - "Pour dix huict aulnes de passement blanc pour mestre à des fraizes - à trois escus l'aulne." + "Pour dix huict aulnes de passement blanc pour mestre à des fraizes + à trois escus l'aulne." 1582. The account for this year contains entries for "passement - faict à lesguille," "grand passement," "passement faict au mestier," + faict à lesguille," "grand passement," "passement faict au mestier," etc.--_Comptes de la Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. - [410] "Vingt trois chemizes de toile fine à ouvrage de fil d'or et soye de + [410] "Vingt trois chemizes de toile fine à ouvrage de fil d'or et soye de plusieurs coulleurs, aux manchettes coulet et coutures. - "Ung chemize à ouvrage de soye noire. + "Ung chemize à ouvrage de soye noire. - "Quatre chemizes les trois à ouvrage d'or et d'argent et soye - bleu."--_Inv. des meubles qui ont estés portés à Paris._ 1602. Arch. + "Quatre chemizes les trois à ouvrage d'or et d'argent et soye + bleu."--_Inv. des meubles qui ont estés portés à Paris._ 1602. Arch. Nat. - [411] "1577. A Jehan Dupré, linger, demeurant à Paris, la somme de - soixante douze livres tournois à luy or donnée pour son payement de - quatre layz d'ouvraige à poinct couppé pour faire une garniture de - chemise pour servir à mon dict segneur, à raison de 18 liv. + [411] "1577. A Jehan Dupré, linger, demeurant à Paris, la somme de + soixante douze livres tournois à luy or donnée pour son payement de + quatre layz d'ouvraige à poinct couppé pour faire une garniture de + chemise pour servir à mon dict segneur, à raison de 18 liv. chacune."--_Comptes de la Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 162, fol. 655. @@ -24279,56 +24251,56 @@ Notes [413] "Item, cinq mouchoirs d'ouvrages d'or, d'argent et soye, prisez ensemble cent escuz. - "Item, deux tauayelles aussi ouvrage d'or, d'argent et soye, prisées + "Item, deux tauayelles aussi ouvrage d'or, d'argent et soye, prisées cent escuz. - "Item, trois tauayelles blanches de rezeuil, prisées ensemble trente + "Item, trois tauayelles blanches de rezeuil, prisées ensemble trente escuz. - "Item, une paire de manches de point coupé et enrichies d'argent, + "Item, une paire de manches de point coupé et enrichies d'argent, prisez vingt escuz. - "Item, deux mouchoirs blancz de point coupé, prisez ensemble vingt + "Item, deux mouchoirs blancz de point coupé, prisez ensemble vingt escuz. "Toutes lesquelles tauayelles et mouchoirs cy dessus trouvez dans un coffre de bahu que la dicte defunte dame faisoit ordinairement porter avec elle a la court sont demeurez entre les mains du S^r de - Beringhen, suivant le commandement qu'il en avoit de sa majesté pour - les representer à icelle, ce qu'il a promis de faire."--_Inventaire - apres le decès de Gabrielle d'Estrées._ 1599. Arch. Nat. K. K. 157, + Beringhen, suivant le commandement qu'il en avoit de sa majesté pour + les representer à icelle, ce qu'il a promis de faire."--_Inventaire + apres le decès de Gabrielle d'Estrées._ 1599. Arch. Nat. K. K. 157, fol. 17. - [414] "Item, un lit d'yvoire à filletz noirs de Padoue, garny de son estuy + [414] "Item, un lit d'yvoire à filletz noirs de Padoue, garny de son estuy de cuir rouge."--_Ibid._ - [415] "Item, une autre tenture de cabinet de carré de rezeau brodurée et + [415] "Item, une autre tenture de cabinet de carré de rezeau brodurée et montans recouvert de feuillages de fil avec des carrez de thoile - plaine, prisé et estimé la somme de cent escus Soleil. + plaine, prisé et estimé la somme de cent escus Soleil. "Item, dix sept carrez de thoile de Hollande en broderie d'or et - d'argent fait a deux endroictz, prisez et estimez à 85 escus. + d'argent fait a deux endroictz, prisez et estimez à 85 escus. "Item, un autre pavilion tout de rezeil avec le chapiteau de fleurs et feuillages.... - "Item, un autre en neuf fait par carrez de point coupé."--_Ibid._ + "Item, un autre en neuf fait par carrez de point coupé."--_Ibid._ fols. 46 and 47. - [416] "Manchettes et collets enrichys de point couppé."--_Inventaire apres - le decès de Messire Philippe Herault, Comte de Cheverny, Chancelier + [416] "Manchettes et collets enrichys de point couppé."--_Inventaire apres + le decès de Messire Philippe Herault, Comte de Cheverny, Chancelier de France._ 1599. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. 11,424. - [417] In 1598. Vulson de la Colombière, _Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de + [417] In 1598. Vulson de la Colombière, _Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de Chevalerie_. 1647. [418] _Satyrique de la Court._ 1613. - [419] _Histoire de la Mère et du Fils_, from 1616 to 19. Amsterdam, 1729. + [419] _Histoire de la Mère et du Fils_, from 1616 to 19. Amsterdam, 1729. [420] _Livre nouveau dict Patrons de Lingerie, etc._ - _Patrons de diverses Manières, etc._ (Title in rhyme.) + _Patrons de diverses Manières, etc._ (Title in rhyme.) _S'ensuyvent les Patrons de Mesire Antoine Belin._ @@ -24343,85 +24315,85 @@ Notes Paris. The last book on this kind of work printed at Paris is styled, - _Méthode pour faire des Desseins avec des Carreaux, etc._, by Père + _Méthode pour faire des Desseins avec des Carreaux, etc._, by Père Dominique Donat, religieux carme. 1722. [424] A point de Venise alb, of rose point, said to be of this period, is - in the Musée de Cluny. + in the Musée de Cluny. [425] "Quelques autres de frangez Bordent leur riche cuir, qui vient des lieux estranges."--_Le Gan_, de Jean Godard, Parisien. 1588. - [426] "1619. Deux paires de rozes à soulliers garnies de dentelle + [426] "1619. Deux paires de rozes à soulliers garnies de dentelle d'or."--_Inv. de Madame Soeur du Roi._ (Henrietta Maria.) Arch. Nat. [427] _Satyrique de la Court._ - [428] The inventory of the unfortunate Maréchal de Marillac, beheaded + [428] The inventory of the unfortunate Maréchal de Marillac, beheaded 1632, has "broderye et poinctz d'Espagnes d'or, argent et soye; - rabats et collets de point couppé; taffetas nacarat garnye de - dantelle d'argent; pour-poinct passementé de dantelle de canetille + rabats et collets de point couppé; taffetas nacarat garnye de + dantelle d'argent; pour-poinct passementé de dantelle de canetille de Flandre," etc.--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. - [429] 1620, Feb. 8th. "Déclaration portant deffenses de porter des + [429] 1620, Feb. 8th. "Déclaration portant deffenses de porter des clinquants, passements, broderies," etc.--Arch. Nat. G. G. G. - 1623, March 20th. "Déclaration qui defend l'usage des étoffes d'or," - etc.--_Recueil des anciennes Lois Françaises._ T. 16, 107. + 1623, March 20th. "Déclaration qui defend l'usage des étoffes d'or," + etc.--_Recueil des anciennes Lois Françaises._ T. 16, 107. - 1625, Sept. 30th. Déclaration prohibits the wearing of "collets, + 1625, Sept. 30th. Déclaration prohibits the wearing of "collets, fraizes, manchettes, et autres linges des passements, Point coupez et Dentelles, comme aussi des Broderies et Decoupures sur quentin ou autre toile."--Bib. Nat. L. i. 8. [430] _Consolation des Dames sur la Reformation des passemens._ 1620. - [431] Again, 1633, Nov. 18th. Déclaration restricts the prohibition; - permits "passements manufacturés dans le royaume qui n'excederont 9 + [431] Again, 1633, Nov. 18th. Déclaration restricts the prohibition; + permits "passements manufacturés dans le royaume qui n'excederont 9 ll. l'aune."--Arch. Nat. G. G. G. 1634, May 30th. "Lettres patentes pour la reformation du luxe des habits," prohibits "dentelles, passements et broderies" on boots, carriages, etc. (British Museum). - 1636, April 3rd. "Déclaration contre le Luxe." Again prohibits both - foreign and home-made points coupés, etc., under pain of banishment + 1636, April 3rd. "Déclaration contre le Luxe." Again prohibits both + foreign and home-made points coupés, etc., under pain of banishment for five years, confiscation, and a fine of 6000 francs.--De la - Mare, _Traité de la Police_. + Mare, _Traité de la Police_. - 1639, Nov. 24th. Fresh prohibition, points de Gênes specially + 1639, Nov. 24th. Fresh prohibition, points de Gênes specially mentioned. Not to wear on the collar, cuffs, or boots, "autres - choses que de la toile simple sans aucune façon."--Arch. Nat. G. G. + choses que de la toile simple sans aucune façon."--Arch. Nat. G. G. G. - [432] _Le Courtisan Reformé, suivant l'Edit. de l'année 1633_; and again, - _Le Jardin de la Noblesse Françoise dans lequel ce peut cueillir - leur manière de Vettement_. 1629. + [432] _Le Courtisan Reformé, suivant l'Edit. de l'année 1633_; and again, + _Le Jardin de la Noblesse Françoise dans lequel ce peut cueillir + leur manière de Vettement_. 1629. [433] April, 1636. - [434] 1631. _Trésorerie de la Reine Marie de Médicis._--Arch. Nat. K. K. + [434] 1631. _Trésorerie de la Reine Marie de Médicis._--Arch. Nat. K. K. 191. - [435] Vulson de la Colombière, _Pompes qu'on pratique aux obséques des + [435] Vulson de la Colombière, _Pompes qu'on pratique aux obséques des Rois de France_. - [436] _Mémoires de Guy Joly_, from 1648 to 1665. + [436] _Mémoires de Guy Joly_, from 1648 to 1665. [437] About this period a special Act had confirmed the Statutes of the - Maîtres Passementiers of Paris. By Article 21, they are privileged + Maîtres Passementiers of Paris. By Article 21, they are privileged to make every sort of passement or lace, "sur l'oreiller, aux - fuzeaux, aux épingles, et à la main," on condition the material, + fuzeaux, aux épingles, et à la main," on condition the material, gold, silver, thread, or silk, be "de toutes fines ou de toutes - fausses." The sale of thread and lace was allowed to the Lingères, - but by an Arrêt of the Parliament of Paris, 1665, no one could be a - marchande lingère unless she had made profession of the "religion + fausses." The sale of thread and lace was allowed to the Lingères, + but by an Arrêt of the Parliament of Paris, 1665, no one could be a + marchande lingère unless she had made profession of the "religion catholique, apostolique, et romaine," a condition worthy of the times. "Il n'y fut," writes Gilles de Felice, in his _Histoire des - Protestants de France_, "pas jusqu'à la corporation des lingères qui - ne s'en allât remontrer au conseil que leur communauté, ayant été - instituée par saint Louis, no pouvait admettre d'hérétiques, et - cette réclamation fut gravement confirmée par un arrêt du 21 août, + Protestants de France_, "pas jusqu'à la corporation des lingères qui + ne s'en allât remontrer au conseil que leur communauté, ayant été + instituée par saint Louis, no pouvait admettre d'hérétiques, et + cette réclamation fut gravement confirmée par un arrêt du 21 août, 1665." [438] Dated November 19th, 1653. The letter is given in full by the @@ -24434,9 +24406,9 @@ Notes Cour de Cassation. In the Archives National is a small collection of ordinances relative to lace collected by M. Rondonneau, extending from 1666 to 1773. It is very difficult to get at all the - ordinances. Many are printed in De la Mare (_Traité de la Police_); - but the most complete work is the _Recueil général des anciennes - Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789_, par + ordinances. Many are printed in De la Mare (_Traité de la Police_); + but the most complete work is the _Recueil général des anciennes + Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789_, par MM. Isambert, Ducrusy, et Taillandier. Paris, 1829. The ordinances bear two dates, that of their issue and of their registry. @@ -24445,18 +24417,18 @@ Notes so as to fill the enlargement of the boot, and when trimmed with lace, having the appearance of a ruffle. - [442] _Dictionnaire des Précieuses._ 1660. Molière likewise ridicules + [442] _Dictionnaire des Précieuses._ 1660. Molière likewise ridicules them:-- - "Et de ces grands canons, où, comme des entraves, + "Et de ces grands canons, où, comme des entraves, On met tous les matins les deux jambes esclaves." - --_L'École des Maris._ + --_L'École des Maris._ - And again, in _L'École des Femmes_: + And again, in _L'École des Femmes_: "Ils ont de grands canons, force rubans et plumes." - [443] _Les Délices de la France_, par M. Savinière d'Alquié. 1670. + [443] _Les Délices de la France_, par M. Savinière d'Alquié. 1670. [444] The fashion of wearing black lace was introduced into England in the reign of Charles II. "Anon the house grew full, and the candles lit, @@ -24481,10 +24453,10 @@ Notes [447] Madame de Motteville is not complimentary to the ladies of the Spanish Court: "Elles avoient peu de linge," she writes, "et leurs - dentelles nous parurent laides."--_Mémoires pour servir à l'histoire + dentelles nous parurent laides."--_Mémoires pour servir à l'histoire d'Anne d'Autriche._ - [448] Madame de Sévigné mentions these dresses: "Avez-vous ouï parler des + [448] Madame de Sévigné mentions these dresses: "Avez-vous ouï parler des transparens?... de robes noires transparentes ou des belles dentelles d'Angleterre."--_Lettres._ @@ -24492,94 +24464,94 @@ Notes [450] 1661, May 27; 1662, Jan. 1; 1664, May 31, Sept. 18, and Dec. 12. - [451] "On fabriquait précédemment ces espèces de dentelles guipures, dont - on ornait les aubes des prêtres, les rochets des évêques et les - jupons des femmes de qualité."--_Roland de la Platière._ The + [451] "On fabriquait précédemment ces espèces de dentelles guipures, dont + on ornait les aubes des prêtres, les rochets des évêques et les + jupons des femmes de qualité."--_Roland de la Platière._ The articles on lace by Roland and Savary have been copied by all succeeding writers on the subject. [452] Mgr. de Bonzy, Dec. 20, 1664. _Correspondance administrative sous Colbert_, vol. 3. - [453] Lefébure. + [453] Lefébure. - [454] "Il y a très longtemps que le point coupé se faict icy, qui a son - débit selon le temps; mais qu'une femme nommée La Perrière (sic), - fort habile à ces ouvrages, trouva il y a quelques années le moyen - d'imiter les points de Venise, en sorte qu'elle y vint à telle + [454] "Il y a très longtemps que le point coupé se faict icy, qui a son + débit selon le temps; mais qu'une femme nommée La Perrière (sic), + fort habile à ces ouvrages, trouva il y a quelques années le moyen + d'imiter les points de Venise, en sorte qu'elle y vint à telle perfection que ceux qu'elle faisoit ne devaient rien aux estrangers. Pour faire ces ouvrages il luy falloit enseigner plusieurs petites - filles auxquelles elle montroit à faire ce point ... à présent je + filles auxquelles elle montroit à faire ce point ... à présent je vous puis asseurer qu'il y a plus de 8,000 personnes qui y - travaillent dans Alençon, dans Seèz, dans Argentan, Falaise.... + travaillent dans Alençon, dans Seèz, dans Argentan, Falaise.... - "Monseigneur, c'est une manne, et une vraie bénédiction du ciel qui + "Monseigneur, c'est une manne, et une vraie bénédiction du ciel qui s'est espandue sur tout ce pays, dans lequel les petitz enfants mesmes de sept ans trouvent moyen de gaigner leur vie. Les vieillards y travaillent et les petites bergerettes des champs y - travaillent mêmes."--_Letter from Favier-Duboulay, intendant - d'Alençon since 1644._ Correspondance administrative sous le règne + travaillent mêmes."--_Letter from Favier-Duboulay, intendant + d'Alençon since 1644._ Correspondance administrative sous le règne de Louis XIV (quoted by Madame Despierres), vol. 3. [455] In 1842 M. Joseph Odolant Desnos, grandson of this author, writes, - "Ce fut une dame Gilberte, qui avait fait son apprentissage à - Venise, et était native d'Alençon. Dès qu'elle fut à ses ordres, ce - ministre (Colbert) la logea dans le magnifique château de Lonrai, - qu'il possédait près d'Alençon."--_Annuaire de l'Orne._ + "Ce fut une dame Gilberte, qui avait fait son apprentissage à + Venise, et était native d'Alençon. Dès qu'elle fut à ses ordres, ce + ministre (Colbert) la logea dans le magnifique château de Lonrai, + qu'il possédait près d'Alençon."--_Annuaire de l'Orne._ - [456] _Mémoires historiques sur la ville d'Alençon_, M. Odolant Desnos. - Alençon, 1787. + [456] _Mémoires historiques sur la ville d'Alençon_, M. Odolant Desnos. + Alençon, 1787. - [457] "Le château de Lonrai ne passa dans la maison de Colbert que par le - mariage de Catherine Thérèse de Matignon, Marquise de Lonrai, avec - Jean-Baptiste Colbert, fils ainé du grand Colbert, le 6e septembre + [457] "Le château de Lonrai ne passa dans la maison de Colbert que par le + mariage de Catherine Thérèse de Matignon, Marquise de Lonrai, avec + Jean-Baptiste Colbert, fils ainé du grand Colbert, le 6e septembre 1678" (_i.e._, fourteen years after the establishment of points de - France at Alençon) --Madame Despierres, _Histoire de point - d'Alençon_. + France at Alençon) --Madame Despierres, _Histoire de point + d'Alençon_. [458] Madame Despierres, after an exhaustive study of the mass of documentary evidence on this point, gives as her opinion that-- - "(1) La première personne qui à Alençon imita le point de Venise, et - par conséquent créa le point d'Alençon, fut Mme La Perrière, vers + "(1) La première personne qui à Alençon imita le point de Venise, et + par conséquent créa le point d'Alençon, fut Mme La Perrière, vers 1650, et non Mme Gilbert. - "(2) La préposée-directrice des manufactures de point de France des - différentes villes du royaume qui a établi les bureaux à Alençon, + "(2) La préposée-directrice des manufactures de point de France des + différentes villes du royaume qui a établi les bureaux à Alençon, fut Catherine de Marcq, et non pas une dame Gilbert. - "(3) Les préposées mises à la tête de l'établissement d'Alençon - étaient Mme Raffy et Marie Fillesae, dont les noms ne répondent pas - à celui d'une dame Gilbert."--_Madame Despierres, Histoire de point - d'Alençon._ + "(3) Les préposées mises à la tête de l'établissement d'Alençon + étaient Mme Raffy et Marie Fillesae, dont les noms ne répondent pas + à celui d'une dame Gilbert."--_Madame Despierres, Histoire de point + d'Alençon._ [459] Mrs. Palliser sought in vain for this ordinance in the Library of the Cour de Cassation, where it is stated to be, by the authors of - the "Recueil général des anciennes Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 - jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789"; but fortunately it is recited in a + the "Recueil général des anciennes Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 + jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789"; but fortunately it is recited in a subsequent act, dated Oct. 12, 1666 (Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau), by which it appears that the declaration ordered the establishment - in "les villes de Quesnoy, Arras, Reims, Sedan, Château-Thierry, - Loudun, Alençon, Aurillac, et autres du royaume, de la manufacture - de toutes sortes d'ouvrages de fil, tant à l'éguille qu'au coussin, - en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, Gennes, Raguse, et - autres pays estrangers, qui seroient appellés points de France," by + in "les villes de Quesnoy, Arras, Reims, Sedan, Château-Thierry, + Loudun, Alençon, Aurillac, et autres du royaume, de la manufacture + de toutes sortes d'ouvrages de fil, tant à l'éguille qu'au coussin, + en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, Gennes, Raguse, et + autres pays estrangers, qui seroient appellés points de France," by which it would appear the term point de France did not exclusively - belong to the productions of Alençon. After the company was + belong to the productions of Alençon. After the company was dissolved in 1675 the name of point de France was applied to point - d'Alençon alone. In a subsequent arrêt it is set forth that the + d'Alençon alone. In a subsequent arrêt it is set forth that the entrepreneurs have caused to be brought in great numbers the best workers from Venice and other foreign cities, and have distributed them over Le Quesnoy and the above-mentioned towns, and that now are made in France "des ouvrages de fil si exquis, qu'ils esgallent, - mesme surpassent en beauté les estrangers."--_Bibl. de la Cour de + mesme surpassent en beauté les estrangers."--_Bibl. de la Cour de Cassation._ - What became of these manufactures at Le Quesnoy and Château-Thierry, + What became of these manufactures at Le Quesnoy and Château-Thierry, of which not a tradition remains? - [460] Talon, "secrétaire du cabinet," was one of the first members. We - find by an arrêt, Feb. 15, 1667, that this patent had already been + [460] Talon, "secrétaire du cabinet," was one of the first members. We + find by an arrêt, Feb. 15, 1667, that this patent had already been infringed. On the petition of Jean Pluymers, Paul, and Catherine de Marcq, "entrepreneurs" of the fabric of points de France, his Majesty confirms to them the sole privilege of making and selling @@ -24587,10 +24559,10 @@ Notes year appears a fresh prohibition of wearing or selling the passements, lace, and other works in thread of Venice, Genoa, and other foreign countries (British Museum), and March 17, 1668, - "Itératives" prohibitions to wear these, either new or "commencé + "Itératives" prohibitions to wear these, either new or "commencé d'user," as injurious to a manufacture of point which gives subsistence to a number of persons in the kingdom.--_Ibid._ Again, - Aug. 19, 1669, a fresh arrêt in consequence of complaints that the + Aug. 19, 1669, a fresh arrêt in consequence of complaints that the workers are suborned and work concealed in Paris, etc.--Arch Nat., Coll. Rondonneau. @@ -24607,27 +24579,27 @@ Notes manufactures: "In the accounts of the King's buildings is the entry of a payment due to Bailly, the painter, for several days' work with other painters in making designs for embroideries and points - d'Espagne" (Lefébure). + d'Espagne" (Lefébure). [464] The principal centres of lace-making were Aurillac, Sedan, Rheims, - Le Quesnoy, Alençon, Arras, and Loudun, and the name "Points de + Le Quesnoy, Alençon, Arras, and Loudun, and the name "Points de France" was given without distinction to all laces made at these towns; preference was given in choosing these centres to those towns - already engaged in lace-making. Alençon produced the most brilliant + already engaged in lace-making. Alençon produced the most brilliant results, for from the beginning of the seventeenth century the town had been engaged in needle-point lace, and some of the lace-makers earned high wages, and showed great aptitude for the art. In her - _Histoire du Point d'Alençon_, Madame Despierres has made some + _Histoire du Point d'Alençon_, Madame Despierres has made some interesting extracts from various marriage contracts and wills:-- "A notable instance is that of a family named Barbot, the mother having amassed 500 livres. Her daughter, Marthe Barbot, married - Michel Mercier, sieur de la Perrière, and brought him a + Michel Mercier, sieur de la Perrière, and brought him a wedding-portion of 300 livres, the earnings of her industry; while her sister Suzanne Barbot's wedding-portion, upon her marriage with Paul Ternouillet, amounted to 6,000 livres, earned in making cut-works and works en _velin_ (needle-point lace done on a - parchment pattern), which command a high price" (Lefébure). + parchment pattern), which command a high price" (Lefébure). [465] The Venetian Senate, according to Charles Yriarte, regarded this emigration of workers to France as a crime against the State, and @@ -24648,7 +24620,7 @@ Notes the beginning of the eighteenth century, and of the immense consumption of lace in France, we give the following statistics:--In 1707, the collection of the duties of lace was under-farmed to one - Étienne Nicolas, for the annual sum of 201,000 livres. The duty then + Étienne Nicolas, for the annual sum of 201,000 livres. The duty then was of 50 livres per lb. weight of lace, so that there entered annually into France above 400,000 lbs. of lace, which, estimating at the lowest 1,000 lbs. of lace to be worth 1,000 livres, would @@ -24659,19 +24631,19 @@ Notes the 201,000 livres without the certainty of profit to himself, we must admit that the figure, though high, is far from representing the value of the foreign laces which entered France at that period. - We think that 8 millions (£320,000) would be below the true - figure.--_Rapport sur les Dentelles fait à la Commission française + We think that 8 millions (£320,000) would be below the true + figure.--_Rapport sur les Dentelles fait à la Commission française de l'Exposition Universelle de Londres_, 1851. Felix Aubry. The best history of lace published. [467] "Deux tours de chaire de point de France donnez depuis quelques - années par deux dames de la paroisse."--_Inv. de l'église de - Saint-Merry, à Paris._ Arch. Nat. L. L. 859. + années par deux dames de la paroisse."--_Inv. de l'église de + Saint-Merry, à Paris._ Arch. Nat. L. L. 859. - [468] _Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de - Condé._--_Ibid._ X. 10,065. + [468] _Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de + Condé._--_Ibid._ X. 10,065. - [469] _Inv. de l'église de Saint-Gervais, à Paris._--_Ibid._ L. L. 854. + [469] _Inv. de l'église de Saint-Gervais, à Paris._--_Ibid._ L. L. 854. [470] The saints, too, came in for their share of the booty. @@ -24681,7 +24653,7 @@ Notes sash, like a captain of the guards."--_Six Weeks in France._ 1691. [471] "Toille de Hollande, avec des grands points de France."--_Le - Cérémonial de la Nomination de Monseigneur le Dauphin._ 1668. Arch. + Cérémonial de la Nomination de Monseigneur le Dauphin._ 1668. Arch. Nat. K. K. 1431. [472] _Le Mercure Galant._ Juillet, 1688. This periodical, which we shall @@ -24701,22 +24673,22 @@ Notes half-dozens, and trimmed with the richest point. This custom dates as early as the birth of Louis XIII. Mercier describes the ceremony of carrying the layette to Versailles in the time of Louis XV.--_Vie - du Dauphin, père de Louis XVI._ Paris, 1858. + du Dauphin, père de Louis XVI._ Paris, 1858. [475] In the Lancaster state bedroom, at Fonthill, was sold in 1823: "A state bed quilt of Brussels point, for 100 guineas, and a Brussels toilet cover for 30 guineas."--Fonthill. Sale Catalogue. - "1694. Une toilette de satin violet picquée garny d'un point - d'Espagne d'or à deux carreaux de mesme satin et aussi - piqué."--_Inv. de Mgr. de la Vrillière, Patriarche, Archevêque de + "1694. Une toilette de satin violet picquée garny d'un point + d'Espagne d'or à deux carreaux de mesme satin et aussi + piqué."--_Inv. de Mgr. de la Vrillière, Patriarche, Archevêque de Bourges._ Bib. Nat. "1743. Une toilette et son bonhomme garnie d'une vieille dentelle d'Angleterre."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ "1758. Une toilette avec sa touaille de point fort vieux - d'Alençon."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollois._ + d'Alençon."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollois._ "1770. Une tres belle toilette de point d'Argentan, en son surtout de 9,000 livres. @@ -24727,13 +24699,13 @@ Notes [476] "On voit toujours des jupes de point de France."--_Mercure Galant_, 1686. - "Corsets chamarrés de point de France."--_Ibid._ + "Corsets chamarrés de point de France."--_Ibid._ - [477] Madame de Sévigné describes Mademoiselle de Blois as "belle comme un + [477] Madame de Sévigné describes Mademoiselle de Blois as "belle comme un ange," with "un tablier et une bavette de point de France."--_Lettres._ Paris, 27 Jan., 1674. - [478] "Garnis de point de France formant une manière de rose + [478] "Garnis de point de France formant une manière de rose antique."--_Mercure Galant._ 1677. [479] In the Extraordinaire du _Mercure_ for 1678, we have, in "habit @@ -24743,7 +24715,7 @@ Notes [481] _Ibid._ 1686. - [482] _Mercure Galant._ Fév. 1685. + [482] _Mercure Galant._ Fév. 1685. [483] _Ibid._ 1678. @@ -24752,56 +24724,56 @@ Notes and at the Archives Nat. is a large series preserved in cartons numbered M. 815 to 823, etc., labelled "Gravures de Modes." - [485] _La Fontange altière._--Boileau. + [485] _La Fontange altière._--Boileau. [486] The wife of Trajan wore this coiffure, and her sister Marcina Faustina, wife of Antoninus, much regretted the fashion when it went - out. Speaking of this head-dress, says a writer in the _Bibliothèque + out. Speaking of this head-dress, says a writer in the _Bibliothèque Universelle_ of 1693, "On regarde quelque fois des certaines choses - comme tout à fait nouvelles, qui ne sont que des vieilles modes - renouvellées. L'auteur en appelle un exemple dans les coiffures - elevées que portent les femmes aujourd'hui, croyant ajouter par là - quelque chose à leur taille. Les dames Romaines avaient la même - ambition et mettaient des ajustemens de tête tout semblables aux - Commodes et aux Fontanges de ce temps. Juvenal en parle expressément + comme tout à fait nouvelles, qui ne sont que des vieilles modes + renouvellées. L'auteur en appelle un exemple dans les coiffures + elevées que portent les femmes aujourd'hui, croyant ajouter par là + quelque chose à leur taille. Les dames Romaines avaient la même + ambition et mettaient des ajustemens de tête tout semblables aux + Commodes et aux Fontanges de ce temps. Juvenal en parle expressément dans sa Satire VI." [487] _Galerie de l'ancienne Cour._ [488] "1699. Oct. Le Vendredi 25, il y eut grande toilette chez Madame la - Duchesse de Bourgogne où les dames parurent, pour la première fois, - en coiffures d'une forme nouvelle, c'est à dire beaucoup plus + Duchesse de Bourgogne où les dames parurent, pour la première fois, + en coiffures d'une forme nouvelle, c'est à dire beaucoup plus basses."--_Mercure Galant._ - [489] "Corr. de la Duchesse d'Orléans, Princesse Palatine, mère du - Régent." + [489] "Corr. de la Duchesse d'Orléans, Princesse Palatine, mère du + Régent." [490] Speaking of the Iron Mask, Voltaire writes:--"His greatest passion - was for linen of great fineness and for lace."--_Siècle de Louis + was for linen of great fineness and for lace."--_Siècle de Louis XIV._ [491] Fought by Marshal Luxembourg--vieux tapissier de Notre-Dame--against William of Orange. [492] Falbala--a deep single flounce of point or gold lace. The _Mercure - Galant_, 1698, describing the Duchess of Burgundy "à la promenade," + Galant_, 1698, describing the Duchess of Burgundy "à la promenade," states: "Elle avoit un habit gris de lin en falbala, tout garny de dentelles d'argent." - "Femme de qualité en Steinkerke et Falbala."--Engraving of 1693. + "Femme de qualité en Steinkerke et Falbala."--Engraving of 1693. [493] See ENGLAND.--WILLIAM III. [494] Regnard. - [495] Dame du palais to Queen Marie Thérèse, and afterwards first lady of + [495] Dame du palais to Queen Marie Thérèse, and afterwards first lady of honour to the Duchess of Burgundy. She died 1726. [496] _Mercure Galant._ 1683. Again, in 1688, he says: "Les points de Malines sont fort en regne pour les manches qu'on nomme engageantes. Ou y met des points - très-hauts, fort plissés, avec des pieds." + très-hauts, fort plissés, avec des pieds." "Ladies trimmed their _berthes_ and sleeves with lace; when the sleeves were short they were called _engageantes_; when long, @@ -24811,43 +24783,43 @@ Notes _quilles_, the former laid horizontally, the latter vertically upon skirts; but in either case these were stitched down on each edge of the lace, whereas flounces were fastened to dresses by the - _engrêlure_ or footing. Lace _barbes_ and _fontanges_ were used as + _engrêlure_ or footing. Lace _barbes_ and _fontanges_ were used as head-dresses." They appear to have been soon introduced into England, for Evelyn, in his _Mundus Muliebris_, 1690, says: "About her sleeves are engageants;" and the _Ladies' Dictionary_ of nearly the same date - gives: "Ængageants, double ruffles that fall over the wrist." + gives: "Ængageants, double ruffles that fall over the wrist." In the lace bills of Queen Mary II., we find-- - £ s. d. - "1694. 1¾ yd. Point for a + £ s. d. + "1694. 1¾ yd. Point for a broad pair of Engageants, - at £5 10s. 9 12 6 + at £5 10s. 9 12 6 - 3½ for a double pair of - ditto, at £5 10s. 19 5 0 + 3½ for a double pair of + ditto, at £5 10s. 19 5 0 1 pair of Point Engageants 30 0 0" --(B. M., Add. MSS. No. 5751.) - "1720. Six pairs d'engageantes, dont quatre à un rang de dentelle, - et les autres paires à double rang, l'une de dentelle d'Angleterre à - raiseau et l'autre de dentelle à bride."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de + "1720. Six pairs d'engageantes, dont quatre à un rang de dentelle, + et les autres paires à double rang, l'une de dentelle d'Angleterre à + raiseau et l'autre de dentelle à bride."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. - "1723. Une paire d'engageantes à deux rangs de point plat à - raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ + "1723. Une paire d'engageantes à deux rangs de point plat à + raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ - "1770. Six rangs d'engageantes de point à l'aiguille," with the same + "1770. Six rangs d'engageantes de point à l'aiguille," with the same of point d'Argentan and Angleterre, appear in the lace bills of Madame du Barry. [497] "1725. Deux manteaux de bain et deux chemises, aussi de bain, garnis - aux manches de dentelle, l'une à bride, et l'autre à - raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ + aux manches de dentelle, l'une à bride, et l'autre à + raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ "1743. Ung Tour de baignoir de bazin garny de vieille dentelle. @@ -24871,22 +24843,22 @@ Notes to a kind of closet, where her mistress was up to her chin in water. He knew the manners of the place, and was not surprised.--_Travels._ - [500] Mercier also mentions, in his _Tableau de Paris_, la poupée de la - rue Saint-Honoré: "C'est de Paris que les profondes inventions en - modes donnent des loix à l'univers. La fameuse poupée, le mannequin - precieux, affublé des modes les plus nouvelles ... passe de Paris à - Londres tous les mois, et va de là répandre ses graces dans toute - l'Europe. Il va au Nord et du Midi, il pénètre à Constantinople et à - Petersbourg, et le pli qu'a donné une main françoise se répète chez - toute les nations, humbles observatrices du goût de la rue - Saint-Honoré." + [500] Mercier also mentions, in his _Tableau de Paris_, la poupée de la + rue Saint-Honoré: "C'est de Paris que les profondes inventions en + modes donnent des loix à l'univers. La fameuse poupée, le mannequin + precieux, affublé des modes les plus nouvelles ... passe de Paris à + Londres tous les mois, et va de là répandre ses graces dans toute + l'Europe. Il va au Nord et du Midi, il pénètre à Constantinople et à + Petersbourg, et le pli qu'a donné une main françoise se répète chez + toute les nations, humbles observatrices du goût de la rue + Saint-Honoré." [501] The practice was much more ancient. M. Ladomie asserts that in the Royal expenses for 1391, figure so many livres for a doll sent to the Queen of England; in 1496 another, sent to the Queen of Spain; and in 1571 a third, to the Duchess of Bavaria. - Henry IV. writes in 1600, before his marriage to Marie de Médicis: + Henry IV. writes in 1600, before his marriage to Marie de Médicis: "Frontenac tells me that you desire patterns of our fashion in dress. I send you, therefore, some model dolls."--Miss Freer's _Henry IV._ @@ -24906,14 +24878,14 @@ Notes Foote, in his Prologue to the _Trip to Paris_, says, "They sold me some ruffles, and I found the shirts." - [504] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._ 1710-1802. + [504] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._ 1710-1802. [505] Clement X. was in the habit of making presents of Italian lace, at - that time much prized in France, to M. de Sabière. "He sends + that time much prized in France, to M. de Sabière. "He sends ruffles," said the irritated Frenchman who looked for something more tangible, "to a man who never has a shirt." - [506] "M. de Vendôme, at his marriage, was quite astonished at putting on + [506] "M. de Vendôme, at his marriage, was quite astonished at putting on his clean shirt a-day, and fearfully embarrassed at having some point lace on the one given him to put on at night. Indeed," continues she, "you would hardly recognise the taste of the French. @@ -24933,7 +24905,7 @@ Notes charge on Feb. 16, of "six shillings for a cravat for hur Vallentine." - [508] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. C. de Saint-Albin, Archevesque de + [508] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. C. de Saint-Albin, Archevesque de Cambray._ (Son of the Regent.) 1764. Arch. Nat. M. M. 718. Louis XVI. had 59 pairs the year before his death: 28 of point, 21 @@ -24941,16 +24913,16 @@ Notes et formant le fond de la garderobe du Roi au 1^{er} Janvier, 1792._ Arch. Nat. K. 506, No. 30. - [509] _Etat d'un Trousseau._ Description des Arts et Métiers. Paris, 1777. + [509] _Etat d'un Trousseau._ Description des Arts et Métiers. Paris, 1777. - [510] "Deux aunes trois quarts d'Angleterre à bride pour deux paires de - manchettes tournantes, à 45 livres l'aune."--_Garderobe de S. A. S. - Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre._ 1738. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390. + [510] "Deux aunes trois quarts d'Angleterre à bride pour deux paires de + manchettes tournantes, à 45 livres l'aune."--_Garderobe de S. A. S. + Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre._ 1738. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390. - [511] _Ibid._ The laces for ruffles were of various kinds: point brodé, - point à bride, point à raiseau, point à bride à écaille, point - superfin, point brillant, Angleterre à bride à raiseau, and one pair - of point d'Argentan; Valenciennes pour manchettes de nuit à 42 + [511] _Ibid._ The laces for ruffles were of various kinds: point brodé, + point à bride, point à raiseau, point à bride à écaille, point + superfin, point brillant, Angleterre à bride à raiseau, and one pair + of point d'Argentan; Valenciennes pour manchettes de nuit à 42 livres l'aune. The Duke's wardrobe accounts afford a good specimen of the @@ -24959,63 +24931,63 @@ Notes 4 au. de point pour collet et manchettes de la chemise de nuit et garnir - la coëffe, à 130 ll. 520 ll. + la coëffe, à 130 ll. 520 ll. - 3 au. ¾ dito pour jabot et + 3 au. ¾ dito pour jabot et fourchettes de nuit et garnir le devant de la - camisole, à 66 ll. 247 ll. 10s. + camisole, à 66 ll. 247 ll. 10s. Sept douze de point pour plaquer sur les manches - de camisolle, à + de camisolle, à 55 ll. 32 ll. 1s. Then for his nightcaps:-- 3 au. Toile fine pour - Coëffes de Nuit 27 ll. + Coëffes de Nuit 27 ll. 4 au. Dentelles de Malines pour les tours de - Coëffes, à 20 ll. 80 ll. + Coëffes, à 20 ll. 80 ll. - 5 au. ½ Valenciennes, à + 5 au. ½ Valenciennes, à 46 ll. 253 ll. 52 au. dito petit point, pour garnir les Tours, - à 5 ll. 5s. 273 ll. + à 5 ll. 5s. 273 ll. - Pour avoir monté un bonnet + Pour avoir monté un bonnet de nuit de point 1 l. 5s. 7 au. de campanne de point pour chamarrer la camisolle et le bonnet - de nuit, à 10 ll. 10s. 73 ll. 10s. + de nuit, à 10 ll. 10s. 73 ll. 10s. - The Marquise de Créquy speaks of a night-cap, "à grandes dentelles," + The Marquise de Créquy speaks of a night-cap, "à grandes dentelles," offered, with la robe de chambre, to the Dauphin, son of Louis XV., by the people of the Duke de Grammont, on his having lost his way - hunting, and wandered to the Duke's château. + hunting, and wandered to the Duke's château. [512] "Le Parisien qui n'a pas dix mille livres de rente n'a ordinairement - ni draps, ni lit, ni serviettes, ni chemises; mais il a une montre à + ni draps, ni lit, ni serviettes, ni chemises; mais il a une montre à repetition, des glaces, des bas de soie, des dentelles."--_Tableau de Paris._ [513] _Histoire de Paris._ - [514] "Ordinairement un laquais de bon ton prend le nom de son maître, + [514] "Ordinairement un laquais de bon ton prend le nom de son maître, quand il est avec d'autres laquais, il prend aussi ses moeurs, ses - gestes, ses manières.... Le laquais d'un seigneur porte la montre - d'or ciselée, des dentelles, des boucles à brillants," + gestes, ses manières.... Le laquais d'un seigneur porte la montre + d'or ciselée, des dentelles, des boucles à brillants," etc.--_Tableau de Paris._ [515] _Amusemens des Eaux de Spa._ Amsterdam, 1751. - "Les manches qu'à table on voit tâter la sauce."--_École des maris._ + "Les manches qu'à table on voit tâter la sauce."--_École des maris._ [516] The state liveries of Queen Victoria were most richly embroidered in gold. They were made in the early part of George II.'s reign, since @@ -25029,90 +25001,90 @@ Notes [517] _Tableau de Paris._ - [518] _Mémoires._ + [518] _Mémoires._ [519] "1723. Un couvrepied de toile blanche, picqure de Marseille, garni autour d'un point en campane de demie aune de hauteur."--_Inv. d'A. - de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ + de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ - "1743. Un couvrepied de toile picquée, brodée or et soye, bordé de - trois côtés d'une grande dentelle d'Angleterre et du quatrième d'un - moyen dentelle d'Angleterre à bords. + "1743. Un couvrepied de toile picquée, brodée or et soye, bordé de + trois côtés d'une grande dentelle d'Angleterre et du quatrième d'un + moyen dentelle d'Angleterre à bords. "Un autre, garni d'une grande et moyenne dentelle de point - d'Alençon. + d'Alençon. - "Un autre, garni d'un grand point de demie aune de hauteur, brodé, + "Un autre, garni d'un grand point de demie aune de hauteur, brodé, garni d'une campane en bas. - "Un autre, 'point à bride,'" and many others.--_Inv. de la Duchesse + "Un autre, 'point à bride,'" and many others.--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ - [520] "1704. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de dentelle, l'une à raiseau, - et l'autre à bride."--_Inv. de F. P. Loisel._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. + [520] "1704. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de dentelle, l'une à raiseau, + et l'autre à bride."--_Inv. de F. P. Loisel._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,459. "1723. Quatre taies d'oreiller, dont trois garnies de differentes - dentelles, et l'autre de Point."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse - de Condé._ + dentelles, et l'autre de Point."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse + de Condé._ - "1755. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de point d'Alençon."--_Inv. de + "1755. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de point d'Alençon."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollais._ - "1761. Trois taies d'oreiller de dentelle de point à brides."--_Inv. - de la Duchesse de Modène._ + "1761. Trois taies d'oreiller de dentelle de point à brides."--_Inv. + de la Duchesse de Modène._ "1770. 7 au. 1/8 vraie Valenciennes pour garnir une taie d'oreiller, - à 60 ll. 427 10."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ + à 60 ll. 427 10."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ "1707. 7 au. tournante d'Angleterre pour garnir des plottes - (pincushions) à 50 350 00."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ + (pincushions) à 50 350 00."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ "1788. 12 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--_Ibid._ - "6 trousses à peigne garnies de dentelle."--_Fourni pour Mgr. le + "6 trousses à peigne garnies de dentelle."--_Fourni pour Mgr. le Dauphin._ Arch. Nat. - "1792. 6 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--_Linge du çi-devant Roi. + "1792. 6 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--_Linge du çi-devant Roi. Ibid._ [521] Souvenirs. - [522] _Mémoires du Due de Luynes._ + [522] _Mémoires du Due de Luynes._ [523] 1786. _Courts of Europe._ [524] It may be amusing to the reader to learn the laces necessary for - l'État d'un Trousseau, in 1777, as given in the _Description des - Arts de Métiers_: "Une toilette de ville en dentelle; 2 jupons - garnis du même. Une coiffure avec tour de gorge, et le fichu plissé - de point d'Alençon. Un idem de point d'Angleterre. 1 id. de vraie - Valenciennes. Une coiffure dite 'Battant d'oeil' de Malines brodée, - pour le negligé. 6 fichus simples en mousseline à mille fleurs - garnis de dentelle pour le negligé. 12 grands bonnets garnis d'une - petite dentelle pour la nuit. 12 à deux rangs, plus beaux, pour le - jour, en cas d'indisposition. 12 serres-tête garnis d'une petite + l'État d'un Trousseau, in 1777, as given in the _Description des + Arts de Métiers_: "Une toilette de ville en dentelle; 2 jupons + garnis du même. Une coiffure avec tour de gorge, et le fichu plissé + de point d'Alençon. Un idem de point d'Angleterre. 1 id. de vraie + Valenciennes. Une coiffure dite 'Battant d'oeil' de Malines brodée, + pour le negligé. 6 fichus simples en mousseline à mille fleurs + garnis de dentelle pour le negligé. 12 grands bonnets garnis d'une + petite dentelle pour la nuit. 12 à deux rangs, plus beaux, pour le + jour, en cas d'indisposition. 12 serres-tête garnis d'une petite dentelle pour la nuit. 2 taies d'oreiller garnies en dentelle. 12 - pièces d'estomach garnies d'une petite dentelle. 6 garnitures de + pièces d'estomach garnies d'une petite dentelle. 6 garnitures de corset. 12 tours de gorge. 12 paires ce manchettes en dentelle. Une toilette; les volants, au nombre de deux, sont en dentelle; ils ont 5 aunes de tour. Dessus de pelotte, en toile garnie de dentelle, - etc. La Layette: 6 paires de manches pour la mère, garnies de + etc. La Layette: 6 paires de manches pour la mère, garnies de dentelle. 24 bonnets ronds de 3 ages en dentelle. 12 bavoirs de deux ages, garnis en dentelle." The layette was furnished together with the trousseau, because, says a fabricant, "les enfans se font plus vite que les points." - [525] "1787. Pour achat de 11 au. blonde noire, à 6 10 71 livres 10 + [525] "1787. Pour achat de 11 au. blonde noire, à 6 10 71 livres 10 sous."--_Comptes de Monsieur Hergosse._ Bib. Nat. MSS., F. Fr. 11,447. - [526] When the Empress Joséphine was at Frankfort-on-the-Maine, a masked + [526] When the Empress Joséphine was at Frankfort-on-the-Maine, a masked ball was given on the occasion. The ladies, says Mademoiselle Avrillion, wore short dominoes with their faces covered with a mask, - "le tour des yeux garni d'une petite dentelle noire."--_Mém. de - Mademoiselle Avrillion, première femme de chambre de l'Impératrice._ + "le tour des yeux garni d'une petite dentelle noire."--_Mém. de + Mademoiselle Avrillion, première femme de chambre de l'Impératrice._ Paris, 1833. [527] A few extracts from Madame du Barry's lace accounts will furnish an @@ -25121,11 +25093,11 @@ Notes Une toilette d'Angleterre complette de 8823 livres. - Une parure composée de + Une parure composée de deux barbes, rayon et fond, 6 rangs de manchettes, - 1 ½ au. de - ruban fait exprès, 1/3 + 1 ½ au. de + ruban fait exprès, 1/3 jabot pour le devant de tour. Le tout d'Angleterre superfin de 7000 ---- @@ -25142,22 +25114,22 @@ Notes 8 au. d'Angleterre pour tayes d'oreiller 240 - 9 ½ au. dito pour - la tête 76 + 9 ½ au. dito pour + la tête 76 14 au. pied dito pour - la tête 140 + la tête 140 ---- 456 livres. - [528] "Les dentelles les plus précieuses pour chaque saison."--(Duchesse - d'Abrantès.) + [528] "Les dentelles les plus précieuses pour chaque saison."--(Duchesse + d'Abrantès.) - [529] _Mémoires._ + [529] _Mémoires._ - [530] _Mém. de la Princesse Palatine, veuve de Monsieur._ + [530] _Mém. de la Princesse Palatine, veuve de Monsieur._ - [531] "Cuisinières et Tourières." The joke formed the subject of some + [531] "Cuisinières et Tourières." The joke formed the subject of some clever verses from the Chevalier de Boufflers. [532] _Marli_, which takes its name from the village between Versailles @@ -25173,36 +25145,36 @@ Notes on their chynes." In the third chariot, "the ladies had their barbes under their chynes."--State Papers, Domestic, Eliz., vol. 32. - See also the curious extract from Madame de Campan's _Mémoires_:-- + See also the curious extract from Madame de Campan's _Mémoires_:-- - "Madame de Noailles était remplie de vertus; mais l'etiquette était - pour elle une sorte d'atmosphère. Un jour je mis, sans le vouloir, + "Madame de Noailles était remplie de vertus; mais l'etiquette était + pour elle une sorte d'atmosphère. Un jour je mis, sans le vouloir, cette pauvre dame dans une angoisse terrible; la reine recevait je - ne sais plus qui. Tout était bien, au moins je le croyais. Je vois - tout-à-coup les yeux de Madame de Noailles attachés sur les miens, + ne sais plus qui. Tout était bien, au moins je le croyais. Je vois + tout-à -coup les yeux de Madame de Noailles attachés sur les miens, et puis ses deux sourcils se levent jusqu'au haut de son front, redescendent, remontent. L'agitation de la Comtesse croissait - toujours. La reine s'aperçut de tout ceci ... et me dit alors à - mi-voix: 'Detachez vos barbes, où la comtesse en mourra.' + toujours. La reine s'aperçut de tout ceci ... et me dit alors à + mi-voix: 'Detachez vos barbes, où la comtesse en mourra.' L'etiquette du costume disait: 'Barbes pendentes.'" [534] Only in her last lace bill, 1773: - "Une paire de barbes plattes longues de ¾ en blonde fine à fleurs - fond d'Alençon, 36. + "Une paire de barbes plattes longues de ¾ en blonde fine à fleurs + fond d'Alençon, 36. - "Une blonde grande hauteur à bouquets détachés et à bordure riche. + "Une blonde grande hauteur à bouquets détachés et à bordure riche. - "6 au. de blonde de grande hauteur façon d'Alençon à coquilles à - mille poix, à 18. + "6 au. de blonde de grande hauteur façon d'Alençon à coquilles à + mille poix, à 18. - "Une paire de sabots de comtesse de deux rangs de tulle blonde à - festons, fond d'Alençon."--_Comptes de la Comtesse du Barry._ Bib. + "Une paire de sabots de comtesse de deux rangs de tulle blonde à + festons, fond d'Alençon."--_Comptes de la Comtesse du Barry._ Bib. Nat. F. Fr. 8157. Madame du Barry went to the greatest extravagance in lace - ajustements, barbes, collerettes, volants, quilles, coëffes, etc., - of Argentan, Angleterre, and point à l'aiguille. + ajustements, barbes, collerettes, volants, quilles, coëffes, etc., + of Argentan, Angleterre, and point à l'aiguille. [535] The great fashion. The shoes were embroidered in diamonds, which were scarcely worn on other parts of the dress. The back seam, @@ -25212,48 +25184,48 @@ Notes Palatine, so named after the mother of the Regent. [537] In the National Archives, formerly preserved with the _Livre Rouge_ - in the Armorie de Fer, is the _Gazette pour l'année_, 1782, of Marie + in the Armorie de Fer, is the _Gazette pour l'année_, 1782, of Marie Antoinette, consisting of a list of the dresses furnished for the Queen during the year, drawn up by the Comtesse d'Ossune, her dame des atours. We find--grands habits, robes sur le grand panier, robes sur le petit panier, with a pattern of the material affixed to each - entry, and the name of the couturière who made the dress. One - "Lévite" alone appears trimmed with blonde. There is also the + entry, and the name of the couturière who made the dress. One + "Lévite" alone appears trimmed with blonde. There is also the _Gazette_ of Madame Elizabeth, for 1792. - [538] _Mémoires sur la Cour de Louis XVI._ + [538] _Mémoires sur la Cour de Louis XVI._ - [539] Among these were Sedan, Charleville, Mézières, Dieppe, Havre, - Pont-l'Évêque, Honfleur, Eu, and more than ten neighbouring + [539] Among these were Sedan, Charleville, Mézières, Dieppe, Havre, + Pont-l'Évêque, Honfleur, Eu, and more than ten neighbouring villages. The points of Aurillac, Bourgogne, and Murat disappeared; and worst of all was the loss of the manufacture of Valenciennes. - Laces were also made in Champagne, at Troyes and Domchéry, etc. + Laces were also made in Champagne, at Troyes and Domchéry, etc. - [540] 1649. Anne Gohory leaves all her personals to Madame de Sévigné + [540] 1649. Anne Gohory leaves all her personals to Madame de Sévigné except her "plus beau mouchoir, le col de point fin de Flandres, et - une juppe de satin à fleurs fond vert, garnye de point fin d'or et + une juppe de satin à fleurs fond vert, garnye de point fin d'or et de soie." - 1764. Geneviève Laval bequeaths to her sister "une garniture de - dentelle de raiseau à grandes dents, valant au moins quinze livres + 1764. Geneviève Laval bequeaths to her sister "une garniture de + dentelle de raiseau à grandes dents, valant au moins quinze livres l'aune."--Arch. de Nat. Y. 58. 1764. Anne Challus leaves her "belle garniture de dentelle en plein, manchettes, tour de gorge, palatine et fond."--_Ibid_. - 1764. Madame de Pompadour, in her will, says, "Je donne à mes deux + 1764. Madame de Pompadour, in her will, says, "Je donne à mes deux femmes de chambre tout ce qui concerne ma garderobe ... y compris les dentelles." - [541] _Mém. de Mademoiselle d'Avrillion_. + [541] _Mém. de Mademoiselle d'Avrillion_. - [542] _Mémoires sur la Restauration_, par Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès. + [542] _Mémoires sur la Restauration_, par Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès. [543] _Ibid._ T. v., p. 48. [544] After the Peace of Amiens, 1801. - [545] _Mémoires de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès._ + [545] _Mémoires de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès._ [546] The revival first appeared in the towns which made the cheaper laces: Caen, Bayeux, Mirecourt, Le Puy, Arras, etc. @@ -25263,40 +25235,40 @@ Notes [548] The name _point Colbert_, adopted in memory of the great Minister, is applied to point laces in high relief. - "La brode a toujours existé dans le point d'Alençon, aussi que dans - le point de Venise, seulement dans le point d'Alençon les reliefs - étaient moins énlevés. On ne mettait pas seulement un fil, mais - trois, cinq, huit ou dix fils, suivant l'épaisseur du relief que + "La brode a toujours existé dans le point d'Alençon, aussi que dans + le point de Venise, seulement dans le point d'Alençon les reliefs + étaient moins énlevés. On ne mettait pas seulement un fil, mais + trois, cinq, huit ou dix fils, suivant l'épaisseur du relief que l'on voulait obtenir puis, sur ce bourrage, se faisaient des points - bouclés très serrés de façon que la boucle fut presque sous les fils + bouclés très serrés de façon que la boucle fut presque sous les fils formant le relief. C'est ce point que certains fabricants nomment point Colbert."--Madame Despierres, _Histoire du Point - d'Alençon_.--Page 228, _post_. + d'Alençon_.--Page 228, _post_. [549] In 1673, July, we read in the _Mercure_:--"On fait aussi des - dentelles à grandes brides, comme aux points de fil sans raiseau, et + dentelles à grandes brides, comme aux points de fil sans raiseau, et des dentelles d'Espagne avec des brides claires sans picots; et l'on fait aux nouveaux points de France des brides qui en sont remplies d'un nombre infini." - [550] _Mémoire concernant le Généralité d'Alençon_, dressé par M. de + [550] _Mémoire concernant le Généralité d'Alençon_, dressé par M. de Pommereu. 1698. Bib. Nat. MSS. Fonds Mortemart, No. 89. [551] Vilain, velin, vellum, from the parchment or vellum upon which it is made. - "La manufacture des points de France, appelés dans le pays + "La manufacture des points de France, appelés dans le pays velin."--Savary, Vol. I., p. 108. - "The expression is still used. When the author inquired at Alençon + "The expression is still used. When the author inquired at Alençon the way to the house of Mr. R., a lace manufacturer, she was asked in return if it was 'Celui qui fait le velin?'"--Mrs. Palliser. [552] In 1788 Arthur Young states the number of lace-makers at and about - Alençon to be from 8,000 to 9,000."--_Travels in France._ + Alençon to be from 8,000 to 9,000."--_Travels in France._ Madame Despierres, however, states that only 500 or 600 lace-workers - left Alençon on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, _as there + left Alençon on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, _as there were not 4,000 lace-workers then in the town_. [553] He deducts 150,000 livres for the raw material, the Lille thread, @@ -25305,14 +25277,14 @@ Notes fabricated thread as high as 1,800 livres per pound. [554] In 1705 there were ten processes:--(1) Le dessin; (2) le picage; (3) - la trace; (4) les fonds; (5) la dentelure ou bride à picots; (6) la - brode; (7) l'enlevage; (8) l'éboulage; (9) le régalage; (10) + la trace; (4) les fonds; (5) la dentelure ou bride à picots; (6) la + brode; (7) l'enlevage; (8) l'éboulage; (9) le régalage; (10) l'assemblage. Mrs. Palliser gives eighteen processes, and states that this number is now reduced to twelve. The workwomen were:--(1) The piqueuse; (2) - traceuse; (3) réseleuse; (4) remplisseuse; (5) fondeuse; (6) - modeuse; (7) brodeuse; (8) ébouleuse; (9) régaleuse; (10) + traceuse; (3) réseleuse; (4) remplisseuse; (5) fondeuse; (6) + modeuse; (7) brodeuse; (8) ébouleuse; (9) régaleuse; (10) assembleuse; (11) toucheuse; (12) brideuse; (13) boucleuse; (14) gazeuse; (15) mignonneuse; (16) picoteuse; (17) affineuse; (18) affiquese. @@ -25323,46 +25295,46 @@ Notes theory is that Argentella is an Italianised title for the more delicate examples of point d'Argentan. The character of the lace and the style of the floral patterns worked upon mesh grounds are those - of Alençon laces." In Specimen 1,373-74 in the Victoria and Albert + of Alençon laces." In Specimen 1,373-74 in the Victoria and Albert Museum collection the cordonnet is done in buttonhole stitches closely cast over a thread which outlines various forms in the - design--a distinctive mark of point d'Alençon. And the hexagonal + design--a distinctive mark of point d'Alençon. And the hexagonal wheel device in this example is often to be seen introduced into - flounces of point d'Alençon, of which other portions are composed of - the ordinary Alençon ground or réseau.--A. S. Cole. Fig. 88 and + flounces of point d'Alençon, of which other portions are composed of + the ordinary Alençon ground or réseau.--A. S. Cole. Fig. 88 and Plate LVII. [556] _Dictionnaire du Citoyen_, Paris, 1761. [557] Madame Despierres writes on this head that entries of point - d'Alençon occur as early as 1663:-- + d'Alençon occur as early as 1663:-- "1663, 9 juin--contrat entre Georges Rouillon, Greffier, et Marie Leroy.... - "1900 liv. gagnées par son industrie à faire des ouvrages de point - d'Alençon." + "1900 liv. gagnées par son industrie à faire des ouvrages de point + d'Alençon." - [558] _Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine, Princesse de Condé_. See chap. x. + [558] _Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine, Princesse de Condé_. See chap. x. note 468. - [559] In the Inventory of the Duc de Penthièvre, 1738. See chap. xi. + [559] In the Inventory of the Duc de Penthièvre, 1738. See chap. xi. - [560] "Une coiffure de point d'Alençon à raiseau."--_Inv. de decès de + [560] "Une coiffure de point d'Alençon à raiseau."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Clermont_, 1741. Again, 1743, _Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon_. Bib. Nat. [561] Among the objects of religious art exhibited in 1864 at the General Assembly of the Catholics of Belgium at Malines was a "voile de - bénédiction," the handkerchief used to cover the ciborium, of point - d'Alençon, with figures of the Virgin, St. Catherine, St. Ursula, + bénédiction," the handkerchief used to cover the ciborium, of point + d'Alençon, with figures of the Virgin, St. Catherine, St. Ursula, and St. Barbara. It belonged to the Church of St. Christopher at Charleroi. - [562] Séez has now no records of its manufacture. + [562] Séez has now no records of its manufacture. - [563] _Descr. du Dép. de l'Orne_. An IX. Publiée par ordre du ministre de - l'intérieur. + [563] _Descr. du Dép. de l'Orne_. An IX. Publiée par ordre du ministre de + l'intérieur. [564] _Illustrated News_, March 22, 1856. @@ -25370,21 +25342,21 @@ Notes and 83 to see the marked difference in the character of the lace. [566] "Sous Louis XIV. il y avaient de magnifiques rinceaux, guirlandes, - et cornes d'abondance d'où s'échappent de superbes fleurs. Sous - Louis XV. les fabricants changèrent encore leurs dessins pour - prendre les fleurs qui s'épanouent et s'ensoulent capricieusement + et cornes d'abondance d'où s'échappent de superbes fleurs. Sous + Louis XV. les fabricants changèrent encore leurs dessins pour + prendre les fleurs qui s'épanouent et s'ensoulent capricieusement les unes aux autres. - "Le style de Louis XVI. n'a rien de l'ampleur ni de l'élégance des - styles précédents. Les formes sont arrondies; des guirlandes et des - fleurettes sont la base des dessins de cette époque. + "Le style de Louis XVI. n'a rien de l'ampleur ni de l'élégance des + styles précédents. Les formes sont arrondies; des guirlandes et des + fleurettes sont la base des dessins de cette époque. - "Sous la république et le premier empire, les dessins deviennent + "Sous la république et le premier empire, les dessins deviennent raides" (Madame Despierres.) [567] This effect is produced by varying the application of the two - stitches used in making the flowers, the _toilé_, which forms the - close tissue, and the _grillé_, the more open part of the pattern. + stitches used in making the flowers, the _toilé_, which forms the + close tissue, and the _grillé_, the more open part of the pattern. The system has been adopted in France, Belgium, and England, but with most success in France. @@ -25396,7 +25368,7 @@ Notes [569] Henry founded a chapel at Argentan to St. Thomas of Canterbury. [570] "The average size of a diagonal, taken from angle to angle, in an - Alençon or so-called Argentan hexagon was about 1/6 of an inch, and + Alençon or so-called Argentan hexagon was about 1/6 of an inch, and each side of the hexagon was about 1/10 of an inch. An idea of the minuteness of the work can be formed from the fact that a side of a hexagon would be overcast with some nine or ten buttonhole stitches" @@ -25405,18 +25377,18 @@ Notes Argentan relentlessly cut out and transferred to bobbin net, 'to get rid of the ugly, old, coarse ground'" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869). - [571] "Les trois sortes de brides comme champ sont exécutées dans ces deux - fabriques, et les points ont été et sont encore faits par les mêmes - procédés de fabrication, et avec les mêmes matières textiles," + [571] "Les trois sortes de brides comme champ sont exécutées dans ces deux + fabriques, et les points ont été et sont encore faits par les mêmes + procédés de fabrication, et avec les mêmes matières textiles," writes Madame Despierres. Mrs. Palliser, on the other hand, was of opinion that the two manufactures were distinct, "though some - lace-makers near Lignères-la-Doucelle worked for both - establishments. Alençon made the finest réseau; Argentan specially + lace-makers near Lignères-la-Doucelle worked for both + establishments. Alençon made the finest réseau; Argentan specially excelled in the bride. The flowers of Argentan were bolder and larger in pattern, in higher relief, heavier and coarser than those - of Alençon. The toilé was flatter and more compact. The workmanship + of Alençon. The toilé was flatter and more compact. The workmanship differed in character. On the clear bride ground this lace was more - effective than the minuter workmanship of Alençon; it more resembled + effective than the minuter workmanship of Alençon; it more resembled the Venetian. Indeed, so close is its resemblance that many of the fine garnitures de robe, aprons, and tunics that have survived the revolutionary storm would be assigned to Venice, did not their @@ -25444,12 +25416,12 @@ Notes Les 6 rangs manchettes. 1/3 pour devant de gorge. - 4 au. 1/3 festonné des - deux costés, le fichu et + 4 au. 1/3 festonné des + deux costés, le fichu et une garniture de fichu de nuit 2,500 livres. - 1 au ¾ ruban de point - d'Argentan, à 100 175 ---- + 1 au ¾ ruban de point + d'Argentan, à 100 175 ---- Une collerette de point d'Argentan 360 ---- --(_Comptes de Madame du Barry._) @@ -25459,29 +25431,29 @@ Notes 1789. "Item, un parement de robe consistant en garniture, deux paires de manchettes, et fichu, le tout de point d'Argentan." (Dans - la garderobe de Madame.)--_Inv. de decès de Mgr. de Duc de Duras._ + la garderobe de Madame.)--_Inv. de decès de Mgr. de Duc de Duras._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440. - [578] "Une coiffure bride à picot complete."--_Inv. de decès de + [578] "Une coiffure bride à picot complete."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Clermont_, 1741. [579] These details on the manufacture of Argentan have been furnished - from the archives of Alençon through the kindness of M. Léon de la - Sicotière, the learned archæologist of the Department of the Orne + from the archives of Alençon through the kindness of M. Léon de la + Sicotière, the learned archæologist of the Department of the Orne (Mrs. Palliser, 1869). [580] Embroidery has replaced this industry among the workers of the town and the hand-spinning of hemp among those of the country. - [581] _Légende du point d'Argentan_, M. Eugène de Lonlay. + [581] _Légende du point d'Argentan_, M. Eugène de Lonlay. - [582] _Nouveau Réglement Général sur toutes sortes de Marchandises et + [582] _Nouveau Réglement Général sur toutes sortes de Marchandises et Manufactures qui sont utiles et necessaires dans ce Royaume_, etc., - par M. le Marquis de la Gomberdière. Paris, 1634. In 8vo. + par M. le Marquis de la Gomberdière. Paris, 1634. In 8vo. [583] M. Fournier says that France was at this time tributary to Flanders for "passemens de fil," very fine and delicately worked. Laffemas, - in his _Réglement Général pour dresser les Manufactures du Royaume_, + in his _Réglement Général pour dresser les Manufactures du Royaume_, 1597, estimates the annual cost of these "passemens" of every sort, silk stockings, etc., at 800,000 crowns. Montchrestien, at above a million. @@ -25501,34 +25473,34 @@ Notes SPAIN. The manufacture of gold lace in Paris was, however, prior to Colbert. - "1732, un bord de point d'Espagne d'or de Paris, à fonds de - réseau."--_Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre._ Arch. + "1732, un bord de point d'Espagne d'or de Paris, à fonds de + réseau."--_Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 390-1. [589] In _Statistique de la France_, 1800, the finest silk lace is said to be made at Fontenay, Puisieux, Morges, and Louvres-en-Parisis. The coarse and common kinds at Montmorency, Villiers-le-Bel, Sarcelles, - Écouen, Saint-Brice, Groslay, Gisors, Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, + Écouen, Saint-Brice, Groslay, Gisors, Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, Etrepagny, etc. Peuchet adds: "Il s'y fait dans Paris et ses - environs une grande quantité de dentelles noires dont il se fait des - expéditions considérables." It was this same black silk lace which + environs une grande quantité de dentelles noires dont il se fait des + expéditions considérables." It was this same black silk lace which raised to so high a reputation the fabrics of Chantilly. - [590] _Inv. de decés de la Duchesse de Modène._ 1761. + [590] _Inv. de decés de la Duchesse de Modène._ 1761. - [591] _Inv. de decés du Duc de Duras._ 1789. + [591] _Inv. de decés du Duc de Duras._ 1789. - [592] "Une fraise à deux rangs de blonde tres fine, grande hauteur, 120 l. + [592] "Une fraise à deux rangs de blonde tres fine, grande hauteur, 120 l. - "Une paire de sabots de la même blonde, 84 l. + "Une paire de sabots de la même blonde, 84 l. - "Un fichu en colonette la fraise garnie à deux rangs d'une tres - belle blonde fond d'Alençon, 120 l. + "Un fichu en colonette la fraise garnie à deux rangs d'une tres + belle blonde fond d'Alençon, 120 l. - "Un pouff bordé d'un plissé de blonde tournante fond d'Alençon, à - bouquets tres fins et des bouillons de même blonde." This wonderful + "Un pouff bordé d'un plissé de blonde tournante fond d'Alençon, à + bouquets tres fins et des bouillons de même blonde." This wonderful coiffure being finished with "Un beau panache de quatre plumes - couleurs impériales, 108 l." + couleurs impériales, 108 l." [593] See preceding note. @@ -25541,7 +25513,7 @@ Notes [595] This must have included Honfleur and other surrounding localities. - By a paper on the lace trade (_Mém. concernant le Commerce des + By a paper on the lace trade (_Mém. concernant le Commerce des Dentelles_, 1704. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 14,294), we find that the making of "dentelles de bas prix," employed at Rouen, Dieppe, Le Havre, and throughout the Pays de Caux, the Bailliage of Caen, at @@ -25555,33 +25527,33 @@ Notes their pillows. Much is transported to foreign countries, even to the East Indies, the Southern Seas, and the islands of America." - [596] _Dictionnaire Géographique._ T. Corneille. 1707. + [596] _Dictionnaire Géographique._ T. Corneille. 1707. [597] _Gravures de Modes._ Arch. Nat. M., 815-23. - [598] "1683. Deux housses de toille piquée avec dentelle du Havre deux + [598] "1683. Deux housses de toille piquée avec dentelle du Havre deux camisolles de pareille toille et de dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. fait - après le decedz de Monseigneur Colbert._ Bib. Nat. MSS. Suite de + après le decedz de Monseigneur Colbert._ Bib. Nat. MSS. Suite de Mortemart, 34. [599] "1651. Un tour d'autel de dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. des meubles de - la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jesus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. F. + la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jesus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. F. 8621. - "1681. Une chemisette de toile de Marseille picquée garnye de + "1681. Une chemisette de toile de Marseille picquée garnye de dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau de Sourdis, veuve de - François de Simiane._ Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. + François de Simiane._ Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. - [600] "Les ouvriers n'étant apparemment rappelés par aucune possession - dans cette ville, lorsqu'elle fut rétablie, ils s'y sont établis et - ont transmis leur travail à la postérité."--Peuchet. + [600] "Les ouvriers n'étant apparemment rappelés par aucune possession + dans cette ville, lorsqu'elle fut rétablie, ils s'y sont établis et + ont transmis leur travail à la postérité."--Peuchet. [601] Point de Dieppe appears among the already-quoted lace boxes of 1688. - [602] _Mémoires pour servir à l'Histoire de la Ville de Dieppe_, composés - en l'année 1761, par Michel-Claude Gurbert. P. 99. + [602] _Mémoires pour servir à l'Histoire de la Ville de Dieppe_, composés + en l'année 1761, par Michel-Claude Gurbert. P. 99. - [603] _Mémoires Chronologiques pour servir à l'Histoire de Dieppe_, par M. + [603] _Mémoires Chronologiques pour servir à l'Histoire de Dieppe_, par M. Desmarquets. 1785. [604] _Notices sur Dieppe, Arques_, etc., par P. J. Feret. 1824. @@ -25591,7 +25563,7 @@ Notes [606] _Almanach de Dieppe pour 1847._ - The Author has to express her thanks to Soeur Hubert, of the École + The Author has to express her thanks to Soeur Hubert, of the École d'Apprentissage de Dentelle, and M. A. Morin, Librarian at Dieppe, for their communications. @@ -25599,7 +25571,7 @@ Notes [608] "The silk came from Nankin by way of London or the East, the black silk called 'grenadine' was dyed and prepared at Lyons, the thread - was from Haarlem."--Roland de la Platière. + was from Haarlem."--Roland de la Platière. [609] Page 213. @@ -25607,23 +25579,23 @@ Notes [611] Blondes appear also to have been made at Le Mans:-- - "Cette manufacture qui etoit autrefois entretenue à l'hôpital du - Mans, lui rapportoit un benefice de 4,000 à 5,000 fr. Elle est bien - tombée par la dispersion des anciennes soeurs - hospitalières."--_Stat. du Dép. de la Sarthe_, par le Citoyen L.-M. + "Cette manufacture qui etoit autrefois entretenue à l'hôpital du + Mans, lui rapportoit un benefice de 4,000 à 5,000 fr. Elle est bien + tombée par la dispersion des anciennes soeurs + hospitalières."--_Stat. du Dép. de la Sarthe_, par le Citoyen L.-M. Auvray. An X. [612] The handkerchief of "Paris net" mentioned by Goldsmith. - [613] In the Dép. du Nord, by Jean-Ph. Briatte. "Its fall was owing to the + [613] In the Dép. du Nord, by Jean-Ph. Briatte. "Its fall was owing to the bad faith of imitators, who substituted a single thread of bad - quality for the double twisted thread of the country."--Dieudonné, - _Statistique de Dép. du Nord_. + quality for the double twisted thread of the country."--Dieudonné, + _Statistique de Dép. du Nord_. In the _Mercure Galant_ for June, 1687, we find the ladies wear - cornettes à la jardinière "de Marly." + cornettes à la jardinière "de Marly." - [614] _L'Industrie Française depuis la Révolution de Février et + [614] _L'Industrie Française depuis la Révolution de Février et l'Exposition de 1848_, par M. A. Audiganne. M. Aubry thus divides the lace-makers of Normandy:-- @@ -25631,8 +25603,8 @@ Notes Department of Calvados-- Arrondissement of Caen 25,000 Arr. of Bayeux 15,000 - Arr. of Pont-l'Evêque, Falaise,* and Lisieux 10,000 - Departments of La Manche and Seine-Inférieure 10,000 + Arr. of Pont-l'Evêque, Falaise,* and Lisieux 10,000 + Departments of La Manche and Seine-Inférieure 10,000 ------ 60,000 @@ -25641,14 +25613,14 @@ Notes seldom amounted to 24 sous. Their products are estimated at from 8 to 10 millions of francs - (£320,000 to £400,000). + (£320,000 to £400,000). - * "Falaise, dentelles façon de Dieppe."--Peuchet. + * "Falaise, dentelles façon de Dieppe."--Peuchet. [615] He had run away with the rich heiress of Coadelan. [616] _Chants populaires de la Bretagne_, par Th. Hersart de la - Villemarqué. + Villemarqué. [617] The bringing home of the wedding dress is an event of solemn importance. The family alone are admitted to see it, and each of @@ -25656,12 +25628,12 @@ Notes holy water placed at the foot of the bed whereon the dress is laid, and offers up a prayer for the future welfare of the wearer. - [618] French Hainault, French Flanders and Cambrésis (the present Dép. du + [618] French Hainault, French Flanders and Cambrésis (the present Dép. du Nord), with Artois, were conquests of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV., confirmed to France by the treaties of Aix-la-Chapelle (1668) and Nimeguen (1678). - [619] Photographed in the _Album d'Archéologie Religieuse_. It is supposed + [619] Photographed in the _Album d'Archéologie Religieuse_. It is supposed to have been made towards the end of the seventeenth century. [620] Founded 1630. @@ -25669,10 +25641,10 @@ Notes [621] "1772. 15 aunes 3-16^{mes} jabot haut de vraie Valencienne, 3,706 livres 17 sous"; and many other similar entries. - [622] "5/8 Bâtarde dito à bordure, à 60 ll., 37 ll. 10 s."--_Comptes de + [622] "5/8 Bâtarde dito à bordure, à 60 ll., 37 ll. 10 s."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ - [623] _Statistique du Dép. du Nord_, par M. Dieudonné, Préfet en 1804. + [623] _Statistique du Dép. du Nord_, par M. Dieudonné, Préfet en 1804. [624] "Among the various fabrics having the same process of manufacture, there is not one which produces exactly the same style of lace. The @@ -25694,19 +25666,19 @@ Notes twisted three times." [625] In the already quoted _Etat d'un Trousseau_, 1771, among the - necessary articles are enumerated: "Une coëffure, tour de gorge et - le fichu plissé de vraie Valencienne." The trimming of one of Madame + necessary articles are enumerated: "Une coëffure, tour de gorge et + le fichu plissé de vraie Valencienne." The trimming of one of Madame du Barry's pillowcases cost 487 fr.; her lappets, 1,030. The ruffles - of the Duchesse de Modène and Mademoiselle de Charollais are valued + of the Duchesse de Modène and Mademoiselle de Charollais are valued at 200 livres the pair. Du Barry, more extravagant, gives 770 for hers. - [626] "2 barbes et rayon de vraie valencienne; 3 au. ¾ collet grande - hauteur; 4 au. grand jabot; le tout de la même main, de 2,400 + [626] "2 barbes et rayon de vraie valencienne; 3 au. ¾ collet grande + hauteur; 4 au. grand jabot; le tout de la même main, de 2,400 livres."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ 1770. [627] Arthur Young, in 1788, says of Valenciennes: "Laces of 30 to 40 - lines' breadth for gentlemen's ruffles is from 160 to 216 livres (£9 + lines' breadth for gentlemen's ruffles is from 160 to 216 livres (£9 9s.) an ell. The quantity for a lady's headdress from 1,000 to 24,000 livres. The women gain from 20 to 30 sous a day. 3,600 persons are employed at Valenciennes, and are an object of 450,000 @@ -25716,23 +25688,23 @@ Notes [628] The "barbes pleines" consisted of a pair of lappets from 3 to 5 inches wide each, and half an ell (20 inches) long, with a double pattern of sprigged flowers and rounded at the ends. A narrow lace 1 - ½ ell long, called the _Papillon_, with the bande or passe, and the + ½ ell long, called the _Papillon_, with the bande or passe, and the fond de bonnet, completed the suit. [629] The fault of the old Valenciennes lace is its colour, never of a clear white, but inclining to a reddish cast. - [630] "Les dentelières avaient adopté un par-dessus de calamande rayée, un - bonniquet de toile fine plissé à petits canons. Une médaille - d'argent, pendue au cou par un petit liseré noir, complétait leur - costume, qui est arrivé jusqu'à nous; car nous l'avons vu, il n'y a + [630] "Les dentelières avaient adopté un par-dessus de calamande rayée, un + bonniquet de toile fine plissé à petits canons. Une médaille + d'argent, pendue au cou par un petit liseré noir, complétait leur + costume, qui est arrivé jusqu'à nous; car nous l'avons vu, il n'y a pas trente ans."--_Hist. de Lille_, par V. Derode. Paris et Lille, 1848. - [631] _Mémoires sur l'Intendance de Flandre._--MS. Bib. de Lille. + [631] _Mémoires sur l'Intendance de Flandre._--MS. Bib. de Lille. [632] Period of the peace of Utrecht when Lille, which had been retaken by - Prince Eugène, was again restored to France. + Prince Eugène, was again restored to France. [633] _Histoire Populaire de Lille._ Henri Brunet. Lille, 1848; and _Histoire de Lille._ V. Derode. @@ -25745,37 +25717,37 @@ Notes In 1708 (31st of July) we have an Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy, relative to the seizure of seventeen cartons of lace belonging to - one "Mathieu, marchand à l'Isle." Mathieu, in defence, pretends that - "les dentelles avoient esté fabriquées à Haluin (near Lille), terre - de la domination de Sa Majesté."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau. + one "Mathieu, marchand à l'Isle." Mathieu, in defence, pretends that + "les dentelles avoient esté fabriquées à Haluin (near Lille), terre + de la domination de Sa Majesté."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau. [636] See FLANDERS (WEST), _treille_. [637] In 1789, thread was 192 francs the kilogramme. [638] Describing her trousseau, every article of which was trimmed with - Angleterre, Malines, or Valenciennes, she adds: "A cette époque - (1800), on ignorait même l'existence du tulle, les seules dentelles - communes que l'on connût étaient les dentelles de Lille et d'Arras, - qui n'étaient portées que par les femmes les plus - ordinaires."--_Mém. de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès._ T. iii. + Angleterre, Malines, or Valenciennes, she adds: "A cette époque + (1800), on ignorait même l'existence du tulle, les seules dentelles + communes que l'on connût étaient les dentelles de Lille et d'Arras, + qui n'étaient portées que par les femmes les plus + ordinaires."--_Mém. de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès._ T. iii. Certainly the laces of Lille and Arras never appear in the inventories of the "grandes dames" of the last century. - [639] Dieudonné. + [639] Dieudonné. - [640] Peuchet states much "fausse Valenciennes, très rapprochée de la + [640] Peuchet states much "fausse Valenciennes, très rapprochée de la vraie," to have been fabricated in the hospital at Lille, in which institution there were, in 1723, 700 lace-workers. [641] A piece of Lille lace contains from 10 to 12 ells. - [642] "L'Abbaye du Vivier, etablie dans la ville d'Arras," Poëme par le - Père Dom Martin du Buisson, in _Mémoires et Pièces pour servir a - l'Histoire de la Ville d'Arras_.--Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, + [642] "L'Abbaye du Vivier, etablie dans la ville d'Arras," Poëme par le + Père Dom Martin du Buisson, in _Mémoires et Pièces pour servir a + l'Histoire de la Ville d'Arras_.--Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, 8,936. - [643] Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, 8,936. + [643] Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, 8,936. [644] We find in the Colbert Correspondence (1669), the directors of the General hospital at Arras had enticed lace-workers of point de @@ -25800,29 +25772,29 @@ Notes gradually increased. In 1830 there were 2,500. In 1851 there were already 8,000, dispersed over twenty communes. - [649] Haute-Loire, Cantal, Puy-de-Dôme, and Loire. + [649] Haute-Loire, Cantal, Puy-de-Dôme, and Loire. [650] 1640. [651] 1833 and 1848. - [652] By Médecis. + [652] By Médecis. - [653] They represent to the king that the laces of the "diocèse du Puy, du - Vélay et de l'Auvergne, dont il se faisait un commerce très - considérable dans les pays étrangers, par les ports de Bordeaux, La + [653] They represent to the king that the laces of the "diocèse du Puy, du + Vélay et de l'Auvergne, dont il se faisait un commerce très + considérable dans les pays étrangers, par les ports de Bordeaux, La Rochelle et Nantes," ought not to pay the import duties held by the "cinq grosses fermes."--_Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy_, 6 August, 1707. Arch. Nat. Coll. Rond. They ended by obtaining a duty of five sous per lb., instead of the 50 livres paid by Flanders and - England, or the ten livres by the laces of Comté, Liège, and + England, or the ten livres by the laces of Comté, Liège, and Lorraine. [654] 1715 and 1716. [655] See MILAN. - [656] Roland de la Platière. + [656] Roland de la Platière. [657] Three-fourths were consumed in Europe in time of peace:--Sardinia took 120,000 francs, purchased by the merchants of Turin, once a @@ -25841,31 +25813,31 @@ Notes "guipure de Cluny," after the museum in Paris--a purely fanciful name. - [660] Savinière d'Alquie. + [660] Savinière d'Alquie. - [661] Savary. Point d'Aurillac is mentioned in the _Révolte des + [661] Savary. Point d'Aurillac is mentioned in the _Révolte des Passemens_. - [662] _Histoire du point d' Alençon_, Madame Despierres. + [662] _Histoire du point d' Alençon_, Madame Despierres. [663] "Voile de toile d'argent, garni de grandes dentelles d'or et argent - fin, donné en 1711 pour envelopper le chef de S. - Gaudence."--_Inventaire du Monastère des Bénédictines de St. + fin, donné en 1711 pour envelopper le chef de S. + Gaudence."--_Inventaire du Monastère des Bénédictines de St. Aligre._ [664] In the convents are constantly noted down "point d'Espagne d'or et argent fin," while in the cathedral of Clermont the chapter contented itself with "dentelles d'or et argent faux." - [665] "1773. 6 au. de grande entoilage de belle blonde à poix." + [665] "1773. 6 au. de grande entoilage de belle blonde à poix." - [666] "16 au. entoilage à mouches à 11 l., 1761."--_Comptes de Madame du + [666] "16 au. entoilage à mouches à 11 l., 1761."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ - [667] "7 au. de tulle pour hausser les manchettes, à 9 l., 63 l."--1770. + [667] "7 au. de tulle pour hausser les manchettes, à 9 l., 63 l."--1770. _Cptes. de Madame du Barry._ - [668] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._ + [668] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._ [669] In an old geography we find, "Tulle, Tuille three hundred years ago." @@ -25883,7 +25855,7 @@ Notes laces, the painter Claude Lorraine being taken to Italy in that year by his uncle, a carrier and dealer in laces. - [671] Neufchâteau. + [671] Neufchâteau. [672] The trader who purchases the lace is called "peussemotier." @@ -25894,10 +25866,10 @@ Notes [674] In a catalogue of the collection of objects of religious art, exhibited at Mechlin in 1864, we find noticed, "Dentelle pour rochet, point de Nancy," from the church of St. Charles at Antwerp, - together with various "voiles de bénédiction," laces for rochets and + together with various "voiles de bénédiction," laces for rochets and altar-cloths, of "point de Paris." - [675] The _Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Vosges_, by Citoyen Desgoulles, + [675] The _Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Vosges_, by Citoyen Desgoulles, An X, says: "Mirecourt is celebrated for its lace fabrics. There are twenty lace merchants; but the workers are not attached to any particular house. They buy their own thread, make the lace, and @@ -25913,11 +25885,11 @@ Notes [678] "Eidem pro 6 divi[=t] Sedan et Itali[=e] colaris opere scis[=s] et pro 62 purles opere acuo pro 6 pa[=r] mani[=c] lintea[=r] eisdem, - £116 6s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., ix. to xi. P. R. O. + £116 6s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., ix. to xi. P. R. O. [679] "Eidem pro 6 divi[=t] Pultenarian Sedan de opere scis[=s] colaris et pro 72 purles divi[=t] opere acuo pro mani[=c] lintea[=r] eisdem, - £106 16s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., xi. to xii. + £106 16s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., xi. to xii. [680] In 1700 there were several lace manufacturers at Charleville, the principal of whom was named Vigoureux.--_Hist. de Charleville._ @@ -25938,21 +25910,21 @@ Notes Burgundy.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. 84. P.R.O. [685] M. Joseph Garnier, the learned Archiviste of Dijon, informed Mrs. - Palliser that "les archives de l'hospice Sainte-Anne n'ont conservé - aucune trace de la manufacture de dentelles qui y fut établie. Tout - ce qu'on sait, c'est qu'elle était sous la direction d'un sieur - Helling, et qu'on y fabriquait le point d'Alençon." + Palliser that "les archives de l'hospice Sainte-Anne n'ont conservé + aucune trace de la manufacture de dentelles qui y fut établie. Tout + ce qu'on sait, c'est qu'elle était sous la direction d'un sieur + Helling, et qu'on y fabriquait le point d'Alençon." - [686] _Descr. du Dép. de la Vienne_, par le Citoyen Cochon. An X. + [686] _Descr. du Dép. de la Vienne_, par le Citoyen Cochon. An X. [687] "Ce n'est pas une grande chose que la manufacture de points qui est - établie dans l'hôpital de Bourdeaux."--Savary. Edit. 1726. + établie dans l'hôpital de Bourdeaux."--Savary. Edit. 1726. [688] Table of the Number of Lace-workers in France in 1851. (From M. Aubry.) Manufacture of Chantilly - and Alençon:-- + and Alençon:-- Orne } Seine-et-Oise } @@ -25971,7 +25943,7 @@ Notes Calvados } Manche } 55,000 - Seine-Inférieure } + Seine-Inférieure } Manufacture of Lorraine, Mirecourt:-- @@ -25985,7 +25957,7 @@ Notes Cantal } Haute Loire } 130,000 Loire } - Puy-de-Dôme } + Puy-de-Dôme } Application-work at Paris} and Lace-makers } 2,500 @@ -25994,8 +25966,8 @@ Notes ------- In his _Report on the Universal Exhibition of 1867_, M. Aubry - estimates the number at 200,000--their average wages from 1 to 1½ - francs a day of ten hours' labour; some earn as much as 3½ francs. + estimates the number at 200,000--their average wages from 1 to 1½ + francs a day of ten hours' labour; some earn as much as 3½ francs. Almost all work at home, combining the work of the pillow with their agricultural and household occupations. Lace schools are being founded throughout the northern lace departments of France, and @@ -26006,30 +25978,30 @@ Notes of London, we find mention but of one Dutchman, Richard Thomas, "a worker of billament lace." - [690] In 1689 appears an "Arrest du Roi qui ordonne l'exécution d'une - sentence du maître de poste de Rouen, portant confiscation des + [690] In 1689 appears an "Arrest du Roi qui ordonne l'exécution d'une + sentence du maître de poste de Rouen, portant confiscation des dentelles venant d'Amsterdam."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau. [691] 1685. - [692] We have frequent mention of dentelle à la reine previous to its + [692] We have frequent mention of dentelle à la reine previous to its introduction into Holland. - 1619. "Plus une aulne ung tiers de dentelle à la - reyne."--_Trésorerie de Madame, Soeur de Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234. + 1619. "Plus une aulne ung tiers de dentelle à la + reyne."--_Trésorerie de Madame, Soeur de Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234. - 1678. "Les dames mettent ordinairement deux cornettes de Point à la - Reyne ou de soie écrue, rarement de Point de France, parce que le + 1678. "Les dames mettent ordinairement deux cornettes de Point à la + Reyne ou de soie écrue, rarement de Point de France, parce que le point clair sied mieux au visage."--_Mercure Galant._ - 1683. "Deux Aubes de toille demie holande garnis de point à la + 1683. "Deux Aubes de toille demie holande garnis de point à la Reyne."--_Inv. fait apres le decedz de Mgr. Colbert._ Bib. Nat. MSS. Suite de Mortemart, 34. [693] C. Weisse. _History of the French Protestant Refugees from the Edict of Nantes._ Edinburgh, 1854. - [694] Grandson of Simon Châtelain. See Chap. VI. + [694] Grandson of Simon Châtelain. See Chap. VI. [695] In the paper already referred to (see NORMANDY) on the lace trade, in 1704, it is stated the Flemish laces called "dentelles de haut @@ -26056,7 +26028,7 @@ Notes [701] Treillis d'Allemagne is early mentioned in the French inventories:-- 1543. "Pour une aulne deux tiers trillist d'Allemagne."--_Argenterie - de la Reine_ (_Eléonore d'Autriche_). Arch. Nat. K. K. 104. + de la Reine_ (_Eléonore d'Autriche_). Arch. Nat. K. K. 104. 1557. "Pour une aulne de treilliz noir d'Allemagne pour garnir la robbe de damars noir ou il y a de la bizette."--_Comptes de @@ -26068,8 +26040,8 @@ Notes Dresden work is composed, with such ingenuity as to surpass the finest performance with the needle. This specimen, consisting of a cap and a piece for a long apron, the apron, valued by the - inventress at £2 2s., was declared by the judges worth - £56."--_Annual Register._ 1762. + inventress at £2 2s., was declared by the judges worth + £56."--_Annual Register._ 1762. [703] "Smash go the glasses, aboard pours the wine on circling laces, Dresden aprons, silvered silks, and rich brocades." And again, "Your @@ -26101,7 +26073,7 @@ Notes [715] "Item. Dix carrez de tapisserye a poinctz de Hongrye d'or, d'argent et soye de differends patrons."--1632. - _Inv. après le decès du Maréchal de Marillac._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. + _Inv. après le decès du Maréchal de Marillac._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,424. [716] Hungary was so styled in the seventeenth century. In a _Relation of @@ -26117,20 +26089,20 @@ Notes [720] Bishop of Salisbury. "Letters." 1748-9. - [721] _Modelbuch in Kupfen gemacht._ Nürnberg, 1601. + [721] _Modelbuch in Kupfen gemacht._ Nürnberg, 1601. [722] Poppenreuth is about a German mile from Nuremberg. [723] "Austria."--_Report of the International Exhibition of 1862._ - [724] As quoted in Lefébure's _Embroidery and Lace_. + [724] As quoted in Lefébure's _Embroidery and Lace_. [725] Haag. _La France Protestante._ - [726] The Neufchâtel trade extended through the Jura range from the valley - of Lake Joux (Vaud) to Porentruy, near Bâle. + [726] The Neufchâtel trade extended through the Jura range from the valley + of Lake Joux (Vaud) to Porentruy, near Bâle. - [727] _Statistique de la Suisse._ Picot, de Genève. 1819. + [727] _Statistique de la Suisse._ Picot, de Genève. 1819. [728] A curious pattern-book has been sent to us, belonging to the Antiquarian Society of Zurich, through the kindness of its @@ -26168,10 +26140,10 @@ Notes [735] Dated 1643. - [736] "Tönder lace, fine and middling, made in the districts of Lygum + [736] "Tönder lace, fine and middling, made in the districts of Lygum Kloster, keeps all the peasant girls employed. Thereof is exported to the German markets and the Baltic, it is supposed, for more than - 100,000 rixdollars (£11,110), and the fine thread must be had from + 100,000 rixdollars (£11,110), and the fine thread must be had from the Netherlands, and sometimes costs 100 rixdollars per lb."--_Pontoppidan. Economical Balance._ 1759. @@ -26181,7 +26153,7 @@ Notes to lace fabrics of Mechlin design."--(A. S. Cole.) [738] "The lace fabric in North Sleswick in 1840 was divided into two - districts--that of Tönder and Lygum Kloster on the western coasts, + districts--that of Tönder and Lygum Kloster on the western coasts, and that of Haderslaben and Apenraade on the east. The quality of the lace from these last localities is so bad that no Copenhagen dealers will have it in their shops."--_Report of the Royal @@ -26190,13 +26162,13 @@ Notes [739] Mr. Jens Wulff, an eminent lace-dealer, Knight of the Danebrog, who has made great exertions to revive the lace industry in Denmark. - [740] Tönder lace was celebrated for its durability, the best flax or silk + [740] Tönder lace was celebrated for its durability, the best flax or silk thread only being used. - [741] "A lace-maker earns from 3½d. to 4½d. per day of sixteen + [741] "A lace-maker earns from 3½d. to 4½d. per day of sixteen hours."--_Rawert's Report._ 1848. - [742] The Tönder lace-traders enjoy the privilege of offering their wares + [742] The Tönder lace-traders enjoy the privilege of offering their wares for sale all over Denmark without a license (concession), a privilege extended to no other industry. @@ -26216,7 +26188,7 @@ Notes All were astonished at the fineness and perfection of the work, and kept the lace as of miraculous origin. - [744] _Wadstena Past and Present_ (Förr och Nu). + [744] _Wadstena Past and Present_ (Förr och Nu). [745] The letter is dated March 20th, 1544. @@ -26224,7 +26196,7 @@ Notes there is no mention of lace; but the author of _One Year in Sweden_ has seen the body of his little granddaughter, the Princess Isabella, daughter of John III., as it lies in the vault of - Strengnäs, the child's dress and shoes literally covered with gold + Strengnäs, the child's dress and shoes literally covered with gold and silver lace of a Gothic pattern, fresh and untarnished as though made yesterday. @@ -26247,7 +26219,7 @@ Notes mere sticks of wood, more or less straight and smooth, and six or seven inches long. - [752] A depôt has been opened in London, where Russian laces and + [752] A depôt has been opened in London, where Russian laces and embroidery of all kinds are shown. [753] _Rot. Parl. 37 Edw. III._ Printed. P. 278, Col. 2, No. 26. @@ -26286,7 +26258,7 @@ Notes [761] Such as "Lace Bascon, Lace endented, Lace bordred on both syde, yn o syde, pykke Lace bordred, Lace Condrak, Lace Dawns, Lace Piol, Lace covert, Lace coverte doble, Lace compon coverte, Lace maskel, Lace - cheyne brode, Las Cheveron, Lace Oundé, Grene dorge, Lace for + cheyne brode, Las Cheveron, Lace Oundé, Grene dorge, Lace for Hattys," etc. Another MS. of directions for making these same named laces is in @@ -26385,12 +26357,12 @@ Notes Calais, whence the letter is dated. Honor. Lylle to Madame Antoinette - de Sevenges, à Dunkerke. + de Sevenges, à Dunkerke. "Madame,--Je ne vous eusse vollu envoier ceste demi dousaine pour changier nestoit que tous celles que menvoiez dernierement sont trop larges, et une dousaine estoit de cestuy ouvrage dont jestis - esmerveillé, veu que je vous avois escript que menvoissiez de + esmerveillé, veu que je vous avois escript que menvoissiez de louvrage aux lozenges, vous priant que la demy dousaine que menvoierez pour ceste demy dousaine soient du dict ouvrage de lozenge, et quil soient plus estroictes mesmement par devant @@ -26399,7 +26371,7 @@ Notes [779] Among the marriage clothes of Mary Neville, who espoused George Clifton, 1536, is:-- - "A neyge of perle, £1 4s. 0d." + "A neyge of perle, £1 4s. 0d." In the pictures, at Hampton Court Palace, of Queens Mary and Elizabeth, and another of Francis II., all as children, their ruffs @@ -26457,7 +26429,7 @@ Notes (35 Hen. VIII.) entitled, "An Act for the True Making of Pynnes," in which the price is fixed not to exceed 6s. 8d. per 1,000. By an Act of Rich. III. the importation of pins was prohibited. The early pins - were of boxwood, bone, bronze or silver. In 1347 (_Liber Garderobæ_, + were of boxwood, bone, bronze or silver. In 1347 (_Liber Garderobæ_, 12-16 Edw. III. P. R. O.) we have a charge for 12,000 pins for the trousseau of Joanna, daughter of Edward III., betrothed to Peter the Cruel. The young Princess probably escaped a miserable married life @@ -26465,7 +26437,7 @@ Notes Castille. The annual import of pins in the time of Elizabeth amounted to - £3,297.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. viii. P. R. O. + £3,297.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. viii. P. R. O. In Eliz., Q. of Bohemia's Expenses, we find: "Dix mille espingles dans un papier, 4 florins."--Ger. Corr. No. 41. P. R. O. @@ -26499,7 +26471,7 @@ Notes [797] 1578. "James Backhouse, of Kirby in Lonsdale. Bobbin lace, 6s. per ounce." - 1597. "John Farbeck, of Durham. In y^e Shoppe, 4 oz. & ½ of Bobbing + 1597. "John Farbeck, of Durham. In y^e Shoppe, 4 oz. & ½ of Bobbing lace, 6s. 4d."--_Ibid._ "Bobbin" lace is noted in the Royal Inventories, but not so @@ -26562,15 +26534,15 @@ Notes [810] Partlet, a small ruff or neck-band. [811] "Eidem pro 4 pec' de opera Rhet' bon' florat' in forma oper' sciss' - ad 24s., £4 16s."--G. W. A. Eliz., 43 to 44. + ad 24s., £4 16s."--G. W. A. Eliz., 43 to 44. 1578-79. New Year's Gifts. Baroness Shandowes. "A vail of black network flourished with flowers of silver and a small bone-lace."--Nichols. - [812] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth Century. + [812] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth Century. - [813] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth century. + [813] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth century. [814] Crown lace--so called from the pattern being worked on a succession of crowns sometimes intermixed with acorns or roses. A relic of this @@ -26810,16 +26782,16 @@ Notes Needle-made lace from 6s. 8d. to 50s.--G. W. A. _Passim._ [851] Lace is always called "lacqueus" in the Gt. Wardrobe Accounts up to - 1595-6, after which it is rendered "tænia." Both terms seem, like + 1595-6, after which it is rendered "tænia." Both terms seem, like our "lace" to have been equally applied to silk passements. - "Galons de soye, de l'espèce qui peuvent être dénominés par le terme - latin de 'tæniola.'" + "Galons de soye, de l'espèce qui peuvent être dénominés par le terme + latin de 'tæniola.'" "Laqueus, enlassements de diverses couleurs, galons imitation de ces - chaînes qui les Romains faisoient peindre, dorer et argenter, pour + chaînes qui les Romains faisoient peindre, dorer et argenter, pour les rendre plus supportables aux illustres malheureux que le sort - avoit réduit à les porter."--_Traité des Marques Nationales._ Paris, + avoit réduit à les porter."--_Traité des Marques Nationales._ Paris, 1739. [852] "Fine white or nun's thread is made by the Augustine nuns of Crema," @@ -26852,7 +26824,7 @@ Notes [858] _Ibid._ Vol. viii. No. 31. - [859] The value of thread imported amounts to £13,671 13s. 4d. + [859] The value of thread imported amounts to £13,671 13s. 4d. [860] Walsingham writes: In opening a coffer of the Queen of Scots, he found certain heades which so pleased certain ladies of his @@ -27007,7 +26979,7 @@ Notes [892] _Anatomie of Abuses._ 1583. [893] "Eidem pro 3 dozin laquei fact' de crine brayded cum lez rising - puffs de crine, ad 36s. le dd., £5 8s."--Eliz. 31 & 32. + puffs de crine, ad 36s. le dd., £5 8s."--Eliz. 31 & 32. The entry occurs frequently. @@ -27023,7 +26995,7 @@ Notes with hair by the yard, made in lowpes, "crispat' curiose fact'," curle rotund', and other wonderful "inventions." - [895] "Your trebble-quadruple Dædalian ruffes, nor your stiffe necked + [895] "Your trebble-quadruple Dædalian ruffes, nor your stiffe necked Rebatoes that have more arches for pride to row under than can stand under five London Bridges."--_The Gul's Hornebooke_, by T. Deckar. London, 1609. @@ -27098,12 +27070,12 @@ Notes though now you wash every day your best handkerchief in yellow starch." - [909] _La Courtisane à la Mode, selon l'Usage de la Cour de ce Temps._ + [909] _La Courtisane à la Mode, selon l'Usage de la Cour de ce Temps._ Paris, 1625. [910] Carlo, in _Every Man Out of His Humour._ 1599. - [911] "Eidem pro 29 virg' le opere sciss' bon' Italic', ad 35s., £68 + [911] "Eidem pro 29 virg' le opere sciss' bon' Italic', ad 35s., £68 5s."--Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 5 & 6. [912] _The New Inn._ @@ -27161,29 +27133,29 @@ Notes find:-- "It. at Basinge. Twenty four yeardes of small nidle work, at 6s. the - yearde, £7 4s. + yearde, £7 4s. "More at Basinge. One ruffe cloth, cumbinge cloth and apron all - shewed with white worke, at 50s. the piece, £7 10s. + shewed with white worke, at 50s. the piece, £7 10s. - "It. one pece of fine lawin to bee a ruffe, £5. + "It. one pece of fine lawin to bee a ruffe, £5. "Item, for 18 yeards of fine lace to shewe the ruffe, at 6s. the - yearde, £5 8s. + yearde, £5 8s. - "Item, 68 purle of fair needlework, at 20 pence the purle, £5 15s. + "Item, 68 purle of fair needlework, at 20 pence the purle, £5 15s. 4d. "Item, at Winchester, the 28th of September, one piece of cambrick, - £4. + £4. - "Item, for 6 yards of fine purle, at 20s., £6. + "Item, for 6 yards of fine purle, at 20s., £6. "Item, for 4 yards of great bone lace, at 9s. the yard, 36s. - Queen Anne has also a fair wrought sark costing £6, and a cut-work - handkerchief, £12, and 2 pieces of cut-work, ell wide and 2 yards - long, at £2. the length, etc. + Queen Anne has also a fair wrought sark costing £6, and a cut-work + handkerchief, £12, and 2 pieces of cut-work, ell wide and 2 yards + long, at £2. the length, etc. [925] _Lady Audrye Walsingham's Account._ 1606.--P. R. O. @@ -27194,7 +27166,7 @@ Notes over the child's face"; six veils of lawn, edged with fair bone lace; six "gathered bibs of fine lawn with ruffles edged with bone lace," etc. The total value of the lace and cambric required for the - infant's garments is estimated at £300.--_Lives of the Princesses of + infant's garments is estimated at £300.--_Lives of the Princesses of England._ Vol. vi., p. 90. [927] England is rich in monumental effigies decorated with lace--too many @@ -27270,11 +27242,11 @@ Notes [939] Collars of Hollie worke appear in the Inventories of Mary Stuart. [940] "Thomas Hodges, for making ruffe and cuffes for his Highness of - cuttworke edged with a fayre peake purle, £7."--2nd Account of Sir + cuttworke edged with a fayre peake purle, £7."--2nd Account of Sir J. Villiers. Prince Charles. 1617-18. P. R. O. "40 yards broad peaked lace to edge 6 cupboard cloths, at 4s. a - yard, £8."--_Ibid._ + yard, £8."--_Ibid._ [941] "Seaming" lace and spacing lace appear to have been generally used at this period to unite the breadths of linen, instead of a seam @@ -27312,14 +27284,14 @@ Notes Italy, 288 rix-dollars." And, in addition to numerous entries of silver and other laces:-- - "Pour dentelle et linge karé pour Madame, 115 florins." + "Pour dentelle et linge karé pour Madame, 115 florins." - "Donné Madame de Caus pour des mouchoirs à point couppée pour - Madame, £4." + "Donné Madame de Caus pour des mouchoirs à point couppée pour + Madame, £4." - "Une petite dentelle à point couppé, £3," etc. + "Une petite dentelle à point couppé, £3," etc. - Point coupé handkerchiefs seem to have been greatly in fashion. Ben + Point coupé handkerchiefs seem to have been greatly in fashion. Ben Jonson, "Bartholomew Fair," 1614, mentions them:-- "A cut-work handkerchief she gave me." @@ -27333,16 +27305,16 @@ Notes ruff; but neither did the bishops or the judges give it up so soon, the Lord Keeper Finch being, I think, the very first." - [950] In 1633, the bills having risen to £1,500 a year, a project is made + [950] In 1633, the bills having risen to £1,500 a year, a project is made for reducing the charge for the King's fine linen and bone lace, - "for his body," again to £1,000 per annum, for which sum it "may be + "for his body," again to £1,000 per annum, for which sum it "may be very well done."--State Papers, Chas. I. Vol. ccxxxiv. No. 83. [951] "Paid to Smith Wilkinson, for 420 yards of good Flanders bone lace - for 12 day ruffes and 6 night ruffes 'cum cuffes eisdem,' £87 15s. + for 12 day ruffes and 6 night ruffes 'cum cuffes eisdem,' £87 15s. "For 6 falling bands made of good broad Flanders lace and Cuttworks - with cuffs of the same, £52 16s."--Gt. W. A. Car. I. 6 = 1631. + with cuffs of the same, £52 16s."--Gt. W. A. Car. I. 6 = 1631. [952] See G. W. A., Mich., 1629, to April, 1630. @@ -27384,7 +27356,7 @@ Notes Hamlet says there are - "Two Provençal roses on my regal shoes." + "Two Provençal roses on my regal shoes." "When roses in the gardens grow, And not in ribbons on a shoe; @@ -27399,8 +27371,8 @@ Notes [961] When Anne of Austria was suspected of secret correspondence with Spain and England, Richelieu sent the Chancellor to question the - Abbess of the Val-de-Grâce with respect to the casket which had been - secretly brought into the monastery. The Abbess (_Vie de la Mère + Abbess of the Val-de-Grâce with respect to the casket which had been + secretly brought into the monastery. The Abbess (_Vie de la Mère d'Arbouse_) declared that this same casket came from the Queen of England, and that it only contained lace, ribbons, and other trimmings of English fashion, sent by Henrietta Maria as a present @@ -27464,7 +27436,7 @@ Notes laced with fine Flanders lace, 33s. 4d. "To Valentine Stucky, for 14 yards and a half of very fine Flanders - lace for the same, at 18s. per yard, £12 6s. 6d."--"Acc. of the E. + lace for the same, at 18s. per yard, £12 6s. 6d."--"Acc. of the E. of Sandwich, Master of the G. W. for the Coronation of King Charles II. 23 April, 1661." P. R. O. @@ -27474,7 +27446,7 @@ Notes fringes by me there sold, belon^g to a rich embroidered Bed of his said Majesty, which at one shilling and sevenpence [per] lib. English. Being the value of the Exchange at that time, amounts to - £395 16s. 8d. + £395 16s. 8d. "(Signed) R. MONTAGUE. "May 28, 1678." @@ -27485,13 +27457,13 @@ Notes [984] 1662. State Papers Dom. Charles II. Vol. lv., No. 25. P. R. O. - [985] He pays £194 to his Laceman (Tenentori) for 3 Cravats "de poynt de - Venez," and 24s. per yard for 57 yards of narrow point "teniæ poynt - augustæ," to trim his falling ruffles, "manicis cadentibus," + [985] He pays £194 to his Laceman (Tenentori) for 3 Cravats "de poynt de + Venez," and 24s. per yard for 57 yards of narrow point "teniæ poynt + augustæ," to trim his falling ruffles, "manicis cadentibus," etc.--G. W. A. Car. II. 24 and 25. Later (1676-7) we find charged for "un par manicarum, le poynt, - £14." + £14." [986] When it was replaced by a black ribbon and a bow. @@ -27536,7 +27508,7 @@ Notes _Intelligencer._ 1664, Oct. 3. "Lost, A needle work point without a border, with a great part of the loups cut out, and a quarter of it - new loupt with the needle. £5 reward." + new loupt with the needle. £5 reward." [994] _London Gazette._ 1677, Oct. 8-11. @@ -27568,10 +27540,10 @@ Notes The lace of James II.'s cravats and ruffles are of point de Venise. - Sex prælant cravatts de lacinia Venetiarum, are charged £141, and 9 - yards lace, for six more cravats, £45. + Sex prælant cravatts de lacinia Venetiarum, are charged £141, and 9 + yards lace, for six more cravats, £45. - £36 10s. for the cravat of Venice lace to wear on the day of his + £36 10s. for the cravat of Venice lace to wear on the day of his Coronation," etc.--G. W. A. Jac. II. 1685-6. [1004] A writer in the _Gentleman's Magazine_, (October, 1745), mentions: @@ -27581,7 +27553,7 @@ Notes cap at Dunkirk is trimmed with Flemish lace (old Mechlin). It must have passed from Paris to the convent of English Benedictines at Dunkirk, who left that city in 1793. There is no record how it - became deposited in the Museum.--Communicated by M. de Forçade, + became deposited in the Museum.--Communicated by M. de Forçade, Conservator of the Museu la Dunkirk. [1005] 9 & 10 Will. III. = 1697-8. @@ -27617,16 +27589,16 @@ Notes [1012] "Bought of John Bishop & Jer. Peirie, att y^e Golden Ball, in Ludgate Hill, 26 April, 1693: - "3 yards ½ of Rich silver rufl'd scollop lace falbala, with a Rich - broad silver Tire Orris at the head, at 7s. 3d. a yard, £25 0s. 6d. + "3 yards ½ of Rich silver rufl'd scollop lace falbala, with a Rich + broad silver Tire Orris at the head, at 7s. 3d. a yard, £25 0s. 6d. "8 yards of broad scollopped thread lace, at 25s. - "3 yards Rich Paigning (?) Lace, 48s. 8d., £8 14s." + "3 yards Rich Paigning (?) Lace, 48s. 8d., £8 14s." -[1013] "9 ½ Fine purle to set on the pinner, at 3s." +[1013] "9 ½ Fine purle to set on the pinner, at 3s." -[1014] "5 ¾ of fine broad cattgutt border, at 20_s_." +[1014] "5 ¾ of fine broad cattgutt border, at 20_s_." [1015] "1 yard 7/16 Raised Point to put on the top of a pair of sleeves, at 30s." @@ -27670,11 +27642,11 @@ Notes In the Account Book of Isabella, Duchess of Grafton, daughter of Lord Arlington, Evelyn's "sweet child"--her portrait hangs in Queen - Mary's Room, Hampton Court--we have: "1709. To a Stinkirk, £1 12s. + Mary's Room, Hampton Court--we have: "1709. To a Stinkirk, £1 12s. 3d." They appear to have been made of other stuffs than lace, for in the - same account, 1708, we have entered: "To a green Steenkirk, £1 1s. + same account, 1708, we have entered: "To a green Steenkirk, £1 1s. 6d." [1022] _The Volunteers, or the Stock Jobbers._ @@ -27707,8 +27679,8 @@ Notes [1031] _History of Trade._ London, 1702. -[1032] "Pro 14 virgis lautæ Fimbr' Bruxell' laciniæ et 12 virgis dict' - laciniæ pro Reginæ persona, £151."--G. W. A. 1710-11. +[1032] "Pro 14 virgis lautæ Fimbr' Bruxell' laciniæ et 12 virgis dict' + laciniæ pro Reginæ persona, £151."--G. W. A. 1710-11. [1033] _Letters of the Countess of Hartford to the Countess of Pomfret._ 1740. @@ -27820,7 +27792,7 @@ Notes [1056] "By a list of linen furnished to the Princesses Louisa and Mary, we find their night-dresses were trimmed with lace at 10s. per yard, and while their Royal Highnesses were in bibs, they had six suits of - broad lace for aprons at from £50 to £60 each suit."--_Corr. of the + broad lace for aprons at from £50 to £60 each suit."--_Corr. of the Countess of Suffolk, Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Caroline._ Observe also the lace-trimmed aprons, ruffles, tuckers, etc., in the @@ -27843,7 +27815,7 @@ Notes guineas; to the third, five guineas."--_Gentleman's Magazine._ [1059] "Cardinal," a loose cloak after the fashion of a cardinal's - "_trollopée_," a loose flowing gown open in the front, worn as a + "_trollopée_," a loose flowing gown open in the front, worn as a morning dress.--Fairholt. "Slammerkin," a sort of loose dress. This ugly word, in course of time, was used as an adjective, to signify untidy. Fortunately it is now obsolete. @@ -27864,7 +27836,7 @@ Notes [1065] _Gentleman's Magazine._ -[1066] 1767. "An officer of the customs seized nearly £400 worth of +[1066] 1767. "An officer of the customs seized nearly £400 worth of Flanders lace, artfully concealed in the hollow of a ship's buoy, on board a French trader, lying off Iron Gate."--_Annual Register._ @@ -27875,7 +27847,7 @@ Notes Jacobite intrigues, and died in exile at Paris. 1731. [1068] If imported in smaller quantities than twelve yards, the duty - imposed was £2 per yard. + imposed was £2 per yard. "Let the ruffle grace his hand, Ruffle, pride of Gallic land." @@ -27896,7 +27868,7 @@ Notes [1075] 1757. -[1076] "Monsieur à la Mode." 1753. +[1076] "Monsieur à la Mode." 1753. "Let of ruffles many a row Guard your elbows white as snow." @@ -27915,7 +27887,7 @@ Notes [1082] In the vault of the Schleswig-Holstein family at Sonderburg. -[1083] In the church of Revel lies the Duc de Croÿ, a general of Charles +[1083] In the church of Revel lies the Duc de Croÿ, a general of Charles XII., arrayed in full costume, with a rich flowing tie of fine guipure; not that he was ever interred--his body had been seized by his creditors for debt, and there it still remains. @@ -27927,21 +27899,21 @@ Notes age, etc. [1084] Alluding to this custom of interring ladies of rank in full dress, - Madame de Sévigné writes to her daughter:--"Mon Dieu, ma chère + Madame de Sévigné writes to her daughter:--"Mon Dieu, ma chère enfant, que vos femmes sont sottes, vivantes et mortes! Vous me faites horreur de cette fontange; quelle profanation! cela sent le - paganisme, ho! cela me dégoûteroit bien de mourir en Provence; il - faudroit que du moins je fusse assuré qu'on ne m'iroit pas chercher - une coëffeuse en même temps qu'un plombier. Ah! vraiment! fi! ne - parlez plus de cela."--Lettre 627. Paris, 13 Déc, 1688. + paganisme, ho! cela me dégoûteroit bien de mourir en Provence; il + faudroit que du moins je fusse assuré qu'on ne m'iroit pas chercher + une coëffeuse en même temps qu'un plombier. Ah! vraiment! fi! ne + parlez plus de cela."--Lettre 627. Paris, 13 Déc, 1688. [1085] Laborde. _Itin. de l'Espagne._ Again, the Duc de Luynes says: "The - Curé of St. Sulpice related to me the fashion in which the Duke of + Curé of St. Sulpice related to me the fashion in which the Duke of Alva, who died in Paris in 1739, was by his own will interred. A shirt of the finest Holland, trimmed with new point lace, the finest to be had for money; a new coat of Vardez cloth, embroidered in silver; a new wig; his cane on the right, his sword on the left of - his coffin."--_Mémoires._ + his coffin."--_Mémoires._ [1086] That grave-clothes were lace-trimmed we infer from the following strange announcement in the _London Gazette_ for August 12th to @@ -27963,7 +27935,7 @@ Notes [1087] Betterton's _History of the English Stage_. Her kindness to the poet Savage is well known. -[1088] This seems to have been a spécialité of Gibbons; for we find among +[1088] This seems to have been a spécialité of Gibbons; for we find among the treasures of Strawberry Hill: "A beautiful cravat, in imitation of lace, carved by Gibbons, very masterly."--_Hist. and Antiquities of Twickenham._ London, 1797. @@ -28021,7 +27993,7 @@ Notes by the name of "fourpenny spot." [1096] Till its annexation to the Crown, the Isle of Man was the great - smuggling depôt for French laces. The traders then removed en masse + smuggling depôt for French laces. The traders then removed en masse to the Channel Isles, there to carry on their traffic. An idiot called "Peg the Ply" in Castletown (in 1842) was seen working at her pillow on a summer's evening, the last lace-maker of the island. @@ -28034,7 +28006,7 @@ Notes The weariness of incarceration, when at Carisbrook, did not bring on Charles I. any distaste for rich apparel. Among the charges of 1648, - Sept. and Nov., we find a sum of nigh £800 for suits and cloaks of + Sept. and Nov., we find a sum of nigh £800 for suits and cloaks of black brocade tabby, black unshorn velvet, and black satin, all lined with plush and trimmed with rich bone lace. @@ -28174,7 +28146,7 @@ Notes [1124] _Dict. of Commerce._ -[1125] In Flanders also these glasses were made and used. The "mediæval +[1125] In Flanders also these glasses were made and used. The "mediæval 'ourinals' are alike the retorts of the alchemist and the water-globes of the poor Flemish flax-thread spinners and lace makers." _Old English Glasses._ A. Hartshorne. @@ -28221,11 +28193,11 @@ Notes [1131] Waylen's _History of Marlborough_. [1132] "At Bland, on the Stour, between Salisbury and Dorchester, they made - the finest lace in England, valued at £30 per yard."--_Universal + the finest lace in England, valued at £30 per yard."--_Universal Dict. of Trade and Commerce._ 1774. [1133] "Much bone lace was made here, and the finest point in England, - equal, if not superior, to that of Flanders, and valued at £30 per + equal, if not superior, to that of Flanders, and valued at £30 per yard till the beginning of this century."--_Hutchins' Hist. of the County of Dorset._ 2nd Edition, 1796. @@ -28316,7 +28288,7 @@ Notes [1150] Died 1398. -[1151] The best _réseau_ was made by hand with the needle, and was much +[1151] The best _réseau_ was made by hand with the needle, and was much more expensive. [1152] Mrs. Aberdein, of Honiton, informed Mrs. Palliser that her father @@ -28331,7 +28303,7 @@ Notes fashion, of a small lace veil on real ground, said to be one of the first ever fabricated. It was 12 inches wide and 30 inches long, and, making allowance for the shrinking caused by washing, the value - amounted to £20, which proved to be exactly the sum originally paid + amounted to £20, which proved to be exactly the sum originally paid for the veil. The ground of this veil, though perfect in its workmanship, is of a much wider mesh than was made in the last days of the fabric. It was the property of Mrs. Chick. @@ -28468,7 +28440,7 @@ Notes [1173] 1542. Same Inv. [1174] In the Inv. of the Earl of Huntley, 1511-12, there is mention of - dresses "passamenté d'or." + dresses "passamenté d'or." [1175] Chap. X., note. @@ -28491,20 +28463,20 @@ Notes of exquisite raised Venice point, hung (circ. 1870) in the drawing-room of the late Miss Katherine Sinclair. -[1177] "Une robe de velours vert couverté de Broderies, gimpeures, et - cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même. +[1177] "Une robe de velours vert couverté de Broderies, gimpeures, et + cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même. - "Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent. + "Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent. - "Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure + "Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or. "Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc. - "Robe de weloux noyr semée de geynpeurs d'or."--_Inv. of + "Robe de weloux noyr semée de geynpeurs d'or."--_Inv. of Lillebourg._ 1561. -[1178] "Chamarrée de bisette."--_Inv. of Lillebourg._ 1561. +[1178] "Chamarrée de bisette."--_Inv. of Lillebourg._ 1561. "Ane rabbat of wolvin thread with passmentet with silver." @@ -28590,7 +28562,7 @@ Notes "2 ells Cambridg' at 8s. the ell for ruffles, 16s. - "2 ells of Perling at 30s., the uther at 33s. 4d., £3 3s. + "2 ells of Perling at 30s., the uther at 33s. 4d., £3 3s. 4d."--Innes' _Sketches of Early Scotch History._ [1197] January, 1686. @@ -28653,7 +28625,7 @@ Notes [1205] _Edinburgh Amusement._ -[1206] 1755. Premium £2 offered. "For the whitest, best, and finest lace, +[1206] 1755. Premium £2 offered. "For the whitest, best, and finest lace, commonly called Hamilton lace, and of the best pattern, not under two yards in length and not under three inches in breadth." @@ -28680,7 +28652,7 @@ Notes Again, in 1764, Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell advertise in their boarding-school "lacework and the washing of blonde laces; the - pupils' own laces washed and got up at home. Terms £24." + pupils' own laces washed and got up at home. Terms £24." At Miss Glen's boarding-school in the Trunk Close, 1768, young ladies are taught "white and coloured seam and washing of @@ -28725,7 +28697,7 @@ Notes Mechlin and Brussels. She had lately twenty-two apprentices from the Glasgow Hospital.... Mrs. Puteau has as much merit in this branch as has her husband in the making of fine thread. This he manufactures - of such a fineness as to be valued at £10 the pound + of such a fineness as to be valued at £10 the pound weight."--_Essays on the Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, Fisheries, etc., of Scotland._ David Loch. 1778. @@ -28867,7 +28839,7 @@ Notes 3. Embroidery on net, either darning or chain-stitch. - 4. Cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqué + 4. Cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqué lace. 5. Drawn thread-work in the style of Reticella, and Italian cut @@ -28957,11 +28929,11 @@ Notes yard soon after the taking out of his patent can now be equalled at eighteenpence a yard; quillings, as made by a newly-constructed machine in 1810, and sold at 4s. 6d., can now be equalled and - excelled at 1½d. a yard; while a certain width of net which brought - £17 per piece 20 years ago is now sold for 7s. (1843). Progressive + excelled at 1½d. a yard; while a certain width of net which brought + £17 per piece 20 years ago is now sold for 7s. (1843). Progressive value of a square yard of plain cotton bobbin net: - £ s. s. d. + £ s. s. d. 1809 5 0 1830 2 0 1813 2 0 1833 1 4 1815 1 10 1836 0 10 @@ -28970,7 +28942,7 @@ Notes 1824 0 8 1856 0 3 1827 0 4 1862 0 3 - _Histoire du Tulle et des Dentelles mécaniques en Angleterre et en + _Histoire du Tulle et des Dentelles mécaniques en Angleterre et en France_, par S. Ferguson fils. Paris, 1862. "Bobbin net and lace are cleaned from the loose fibres of the cotton @@ -29018,7 +28990,7 @@ Notes [1257] D. Wyatt. [1258] Mr. Ferguson, the inventor of the bullet-hole, square net (tulle - carré), and wire-ground (point de champ ou de Paris), had + carré), and wire-ground (point de champ ou de Paris), had transferred his manufacture, in 1838, from Nottingham to Cambrai, where, in partnership with M. Jourdan, he made the "dentelle de Cambrai," and in 1852 the "lama" lace, which differs from the @@ -29058,20 +29030,20 @@ Notes leave open. The stone being placed in an inclined position, the caterpillars* are laid at the bottom, and the animals eat and spin their way up to the top, carefully avoiding every part touched by - the oil, but devouring the rest of the paste.--_Encyclopædia + the oil, but devouring the rest of the paste.--_Encyclopædia Britannica._ - * _Phalæna pandilla._ + * _Phalæna pandilla._ [1264] Two interesting papers were published in the _Gazette des Beaux Arts_ for 1863 and 1864, entitled, "Essai bibliographique sur les - anciens dessins de dentelles, modèles de tapisseries, patrons de - broderies et publiés le xvi. et le xvii. siècle," &c, by the Marquis + anciens dessins de dentelles, modèles de tapisseries, patrons de + broderies et publiés le xvi. et le xvii. siècle," &c, by the Marquis Girolamo d'Addo, of Milan. [1265] Cambridge University Library. -[1266] Paris, Bibliothèque Nat. Gravures, L. h. 13 d.* +[1266] Paris, Bibliothèque Nat. Gravures, L. h. 13 d.* [1267] Bib. Nat. V. 1897.*--Genoa. Cav. Merli, 1528 (?). @@ -29100,20 +29072,20 @@ Notes [1279] Cat. Bib. Heber., part vi., p. 258. No. 3,514. -[1280] Paris, Bib. Sainte-Geneviève. V. 634.* Bound in one volume with the +[1280] Paris, Bib. Sainte-Geneviève. V. 634.* Bound in one volume with the three following. (Nos. 16, 17, and 18.)--Catalogue de Livres - provenant de la Bibliothèque de M. L. D. D. L. V. (Duke de La - Vallière). Paris, 1763. T. xi., No. 2,204. + provenant de la Bibliothèque de M. L. D. D. L. V. (Duke de La + Vallière). Paris, 1763. T. xi., No. 2,204. -[1281] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat. - d'Estrées. Paris, 1740-46. No. 8,843.3. +[1281] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat. + d'Estrées. Paris, 1740-46. No. 8,843.3. -[1282] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat. - d'Estrées. No. 8,843. 1. +[1282] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat. + d'Estrées. No. 8,843. 1. -[1283] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11.953.* +[1283] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11.953.* -[1284] Paris, Bib. Baron Jérôme Pichon.* +[1284] Paris, Bib. Baron Jérôme Pichon.* [1285] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4.* @@ -29137,7 +29109,7 @@ Notes [1294] Paris, Bib. Nat. Milan, Bib. Belgiosa and Marquis d'Adda. -[1295] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Bologna, Bib. Comm.--Cat. d'Estrées. +[1295] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Bologna, Bib. Comm.--Cat. d'Estrées. 8843. No. 2. [1296] Mr. E. Arnold. @@ -29166,9 +29138,9 @@ Notes [1308] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Mrs. Stisted. Bagni di Lucca. -[1309] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées. +[1309] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées. -[1310] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées. +[1310] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées. [1311] Trezola, in the Riviera dialect, signifies a plait-tresse. "Porta i capei in trezola." ("She wears her hair plaited.") @@ -29195,14 +29167,14 @@ Notes edition at Turin, in the Library of the University. [1321] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2.* (with Part I.): "Ex Bibliotheca - illustrissimi Johannis d'Estrées Cameracensis Archiepiscopi - designati quam Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis legavit. Anno 1718." + illustrissimi Johannis d'Estrées Cameracensis Archiepiscopi + designati quam Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis legavit. Anno 1718." [1322] Brussels, Bib. Roy. M. Alvin, Conservateur en Chef. -[1323] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b.* +[1323] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b.* -[1324] Bib. Ste. Geneviève (with 1st Part).*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b. +[1324] Bib. Ste. Geneviève (with 1st Part).*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b. (with 1st Part).* [1325] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 _bis._* @@ -29237,8 +29209,8 @@ Notes [1337] Victoria and Albert Museum. [1338] Brussels, Bib. Royale. Jean de Glen is also author of a work - entitled _Des Habits, Moeurs, Ceremonies, Façons de faire, anciennes - & modernes du Monde, par J. de Glen, Linger_. Liége. J. de Glen. + entitled _Des Habits, Moeurs, Ceremonies, Façons de faire, anciennes + & modernes du Monde, par J. de Glen, Linger_. Liége. J. de Glen. 1601. In-8. [1339] Lyon. M. Yemenis. @@ -29250,7 +29222,7 @@ Notes [1342] Dresden, New Museum of Art and Industry. [1343] Bib. Nat. V. 1902,* and Grav. L. h. 3.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. - 11,956.*--Bib. Ste. Geneviève.* + 11,956.*--Bib. Ste. Geneviève.* [1344] Victoria and Albert Museum. @@ -29269,17 +29241,17 @@ Notes [1351] Cat. Evans, Strand. -[1352] Paris, Musée de Cluny.* +[1352] Paris, Musée de Cluny.* [1353] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. b*.--Nuremberg, German Museum. [1354] Stockholm. Royal Library. (Communicated by the librarian, Mr. H. Wieselgren.) In the same library is a work, without title-page or - date, for "broderies et de tous autres besongnant à l'aiguille," by + date, for "broderies et de tous autres besongnant à l'aiguille," by Hieronymus Cock, containing, with designs of every description, a few patterns for Spanish point of great beauty. -[1355] Bib. Baron J. Pichon, 2 copies.*--Cat. d'Estrées.--Bib. Nat. Grav. +[1355] Bib. Baron J. Pichon, 2 copies.*--Cat. d'Estrées.--Bib. Nat. Grav. B. c. 22.* (Title-page wanting.) [1356] Bib. Rouen. No. 1,314.*--Bib. Baron J. Pichon.* @@ -29299,7 +29271,7 @@ Notes [1363] Brussels, Bib. Roy. -[1364] Bib. Imp. Grav. L. h. 2. a.*--Brussels, Bib. Roy.--Cat. d'Estrées +[1364] Bib. Imp. Grav. L. h. 2. a.*--Brussels, Bib. Roy.--Cat. d'Estrées 8847. [1365] In the possession of Mrs. Marryat. "Maes y dderwen."--Bib. 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