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diff --git a/57009-0.txt b/57009-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5b77c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/57009-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,29313 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 57009 *** + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's note: Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). +Page numbers enclosed by curly braces (example: {25}) have been +incorporated to facilitate the use of the Index. + + * * * * * + + + + +HISTORY OF LACE + +[Illustration: ANNE, DAUGHTER OF SIR PETER VANLORE, KT., + FIRST WIFE OF SIR CHARLES CÆSAR, KT., ABOUT 1614. + The lace is probably Flemish, Sir Peter having come from Utrecht. + From the picture the property of her descendant, Captain Cottrell-Dormer.] + +_Frontispiece._ + + + + +HISTORY OF LACE + + +BY + +MRS. BURY PALLISER + +ENTIRELY REVISED, RE-WRITTEN, AND ENLARGED + +UNDER THE EDITORSHIP OF + +M. JOURDAIN AND ALICE DRYDEN + + +WITH 266 ILLUSTRATIONS + + +NEW YORK + +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS + +1902 + + + + +LONDON: + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W. + + + + +PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION + + +Nearly thirty years have elapsed since the third edition of the HISTORY OF +LACE was published. As it is still the classical work on the subject, and +many developments in the Art have taken place since 1875, it seemed +desirable that a new and revised edition should be brought out. + +The present Revisers have fully felt the responsibility of correcting +anything the late Mrs. Palliser wrote; they have therefore altered as +little of the text as possible, except where modern research has shown a +statement to be faulty. + +The chapters on Spain, Alençon and Argentan, and the Introductory chapter +on Needlework, have been almost entirely rewritten. Much new matter has +been added to Italy, England and Ireland, and the notices of Cretan and +Sicilian lace, among others, are new. The original wood-cuts have been +preserved with their designations as in the 1875 edition, which differ +materially from the first two editions. Nearly a hundred new illustrations +have been added, and several portraits to show different fashions of +wearing lace. + +The Revisers wish to record their grateful thanks to those who have +assisted them with information or lace for illustration; especially to Mrs. +Hulton, Count Marcello and Cavaliere Michelangelo Jesurum in Venice, +Contessa di Brazza and Contessa Cavazza in Italy, M. Destrée in Brussels, +Mr. Arthur Blackborne, Salviati & Co., and the Director of the Victoria and +Albert Museum in London. + + M. JOURDAIN. + ALICE DRYDEN. + + _London, September, 1901._ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAP. PAGE + + I.--NEEDLEWORK 1 + + II.--CUT-WORK 14 + + III.--LACE 26 + + IV.--ITALY.--VENICE--MILAN ("Milano la Grande")--FLORENCE--THE + ABRUZZI--ROMAGNA--NAPLES--GENOA ("Genova La Superba")-- + CANTU--SICILY 45 + + V.--GREECE--CRETE--TURKEY--MALTA 82 + + VI.--SPAIN--PORTUGAL 90 + + VII.--FLANDERS--BRUSSELS (BRABANT)--MECHLIN--ANTWERP--FLANDERS + (WEST)--FLANDERS (EAST)--HAINAULT 109 + + VIII.--FRANCE TO LOUIS XIV. 139 + + IX.--LOUIS XIV. 150 + + X.--LOUIS XIV.--_continued_ 161 + + XI.--LOUIS XV. 171 + + XII.--LOUIS XVI. TO THE EMPIRE 179 + + XIII.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF FRANCE--ALENÇON (Dép. Orne), + NORMANDY 188 + + XIV.--ARGENTAN (Dép. Orne) 202 + + XV.--ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (Dép. Seine)--CHANTILLY (Dép. Oise) 209 + + XVI.--NORMANDY--SEINE INFÉRIEURE--CALVADOS--BRETAGNE 216 + + XVII.--VALENCIENNES (Dép. du Nord)--LILLE (Dép. du Nord)--ARRAS + (Artois) (Dép. Pas-de-Calais)--BAILLEUL (Dép. du Nord) 230 + + XVIII.--AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY--LE PUY (Dép. Haute-Loire)--AURILLAC + AND MURAT (Dép. Cantal) 242 + + XIX.--LIMOUSIN--LORRAINE--CHAMPAGNE--BURGUNDY--LYONNOIS-- + ORLÉANOIS--BERRY--POITOU 250 + + XX.--HOLLAND, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY-- + HOLLAND--SAXONY--GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH)--SWITZERLAND 258 + + XXI.--DENMARK--SWEDEN--RUSSIA 272 + + XXII.--ENGLAND TO QUEEN ELIZABETH 285 + + XXIII.--QUEEN ELIZABETH 299 + + XXIV.--JAMES I. TO THE RESTORATION.--JAMES I.--CHARLES I.-- + THE COMMONWEALTH 315 + + XXV.--CHARLES II. TO THE HOUSE OF HANOVER.--CHARLES II.-- + JAMES II.--WILLIAM III.--QUEEN ANNE 335 + + XXVI.--GEORGE I.--GEORGE II. 351 + + XXVII.--SMUGGLING 358 + + XXVIII.--GEORGE III. 363 + + XXIX.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF ENGLAND 371 + + XXX.--BEDFORDSHIRE--BUCKINGHAMSHIRE--NORTHAMPTONSHIRE--SUFFOLK 375 + + XXXI.--WILTSHIRE AND DORSETSHIRE 395 + + XXXII.--DEVONSHIRE--HONITON--TROLLY LACE--JAPAN 399 + + XXXIII.--SCOTLAND 418 + + XXXIV.--LACE MANUFACTURES OF SCOTLAND 428 + + XXXV.--IRELAND 435 + + XXXVI.--BOBBIN NET AND MACHINE-MADE LACE--BOBBIN NET--FRANCE-- + BELGIUM--MACHINERY LACE 447 + + APPENDIX 459 + + GLOSSARY OF TERMS 503 + + INDEX 507 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + PAGE + ANNE, DAUGHTER OF SIR PETER VANLORE, KT. _Frontispiece_ + Gold Lace found in a barrow Fig. 1 4 + ARGENTAN.--CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU; VENETIAN NEEDLEPOINT PLATE I 12 + ITALIAN BOBBIN RÉSEAU; SIX-POINTED STAR-MESHED BOBBIN + RÉSEAU; BRUSSELS BOBBIN RÉSEAU; FOND CHANT OF CHANTILLY + AND POINT DE PARIS; DETAILS OF BOBBIN RÉSEAU AND TOILE; + DETAILS OF NEEDLE RÉSEAU AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES PLATE II 14 + Point Coupé Fig. 2 18 + ALTAR OR TABLE-CLOTH OF FINE LINEN (PROBABLY ITALIAN) PLATE III 18 + Laces Fig. 3 19 + Elizabethan Sampler " 5 22 + Impresa of Queen Margaret of Navarre " 4 23 + Spider-work Figs. 6, 7 24 + FAN MADE AT BURANO PLATE IV 24 + ITALIAN PUNTO REALE " V 24 + Grande Dantelle au Point devant l'Aiguille Fig. 8 28 + Petite Dantelle Figs. 9-12 29 + Passement au Fuseau Figs. 13, 14 30 + Passement au Fuseau Fig. 15 31 + Merletti a Piombini " 16 31 + ITALIAN.--MODERN REPRODUCTION AT BURANO PLATE VI 32 + HERALDIC (CARNIVAL LACE) " VII 32 + Old Mechlin Fig. 17 35 + ITALIAN, VENETIAN, FLAT NEEDLE-POINT LACE PLATE VIII 36 + PORTION OF A BAND OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE " IX 36 + Guipure Fig. 18 39 + Tape Guipure " 19 40 + ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À LA ROSE PLATE X 44 + ITALIAN.--POINT PLAT DE VENISE " XI 46 + ITALIAN.--POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU " XII 48 + Mermaid Lace Fig. 20 50 + Reticella " 21 50 + Punto a Gropo " 22 52 + Gros Point de Venise " 23 52 + Punto a Maglia " 24 53 + Punto Tirato " 25 54 + Point de Venise à Bredes Picotées " 26 54 + Venise Point " 27 55 + Gros Point de Venise " 28 56 + Point de Venise " 29 56 + Point Plat de Venise " 30 56 + Point de Venise à Réseau " 31 58 + Burano Point " 32 60 + ITALIAN.--MODERN POINT DE BURANO PLATE XIII 60 + ITALIAN.--MODERN REPRODUCTION AT BURANO " XIV 62 + ITALIAN.--MILANESE, BOBBIN-MADE " XV 64 + Reticella from Milan Fig. 33 65 + ITALIAN.--VENETIAN, NEEDLE-MADE PLATE XVI 66 + ITALIAN.--MILANESE, BOBBIN-MADE " XVII 66 + Unfinished Drawn-work Fig. 34 69 + CUSHION MADE AT THE SCHOOL PLATE XVIII 70 + ITALY.--GROUP OF WORKERS AT BRAZZA SCHOOL " XIX 70 + Genoa Point, Bobbin-made Fig. 35 74 + Lace Pattern found in the Church at Santa Margherita " 36 76 + ITALIAN.--BOBBIN TAPE WITH NEEDLE-MADE RÉSEAU PLATE XX 76 + ITALIAN, GENOESE.--BORDER " XXI 76 + Parchment Pattern used to cover a Book Fig. 37 77 + Fringed Macramé " 38 80 + ITALIAN.--OLD PEASANT LACES, BOBBIN-MADE PLATES XXII, XXIII 80 + ITALIAN.--MODERN PEASANT LACE PLATE XXIV 80 + Silk Gimp Lace Fig. 39 84 + SICILIAN.--OLD DRAWN-WORK PLATE XXV 84 + SOUTH ITALIAN " XXVI 84 + Reticella, or Greek Lace Fig. 40 85 + Loubeaux de Verdale " 41 88 + ITALIAN, RAPALLO--MODERN PEASANT LACE PLATE XXVII 88 + MALTESE.--MODERN BOBBIN-MADE " XXVIII 88 + Bobbin Lace (Ceylon) Fig. 42 89 + The Work Room (16th century engraving) " 43 91 + Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun " 44 94 + SPANISH.--MODERN THREAD BOBBIN LACE PLATE XXIX 94 + SPANISH, BLONDE.--WHITE SILK DARNING ON MACHINE NET " XXX 94 + Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun Fig. 45 95 + " " " " 46 96 + Old Spanish Pillow Lace " 47 100 + PORTRAIT, DUCHESSE DE MONTPENSIER PLATE XXXI 100 + JEWISH " XXXII 104 + SPANISH " XXXIII 104 + Bobbin Lace (Madeira) Fig. 48 106 + " (Brazil) " 49 107 + SPANISH.--PILLOW-MADE 19TH CENTURY PLATE XXXIV 108 + PARAGUAY.--"NAUDUTI" " XXXV 108 + Lace-making Fig. 50 110 + FLEMISH.--PORTION OF BED-COVER PLATE XXXVI 110 + Cap of Emperor Charles V. Fig. 51 112 + Isabella Clara Eugenia, Daughter of Philip II. " 52 112 + Mary, Queen of Hungary, Cuff " 53 113 + Belgian Lace School " 54 114 + Old Flemish Bobbin Lace " 55 114 + Old Flemish.--Trolle Kant " 56 115 + BRUSSELS.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À BRIDES PLATE XXXVII 116 + FLEMISH.--TAPE LACE, BOBBIN-MADE " XXXVIII 116 + Brussels Needle-Point Fig. 57 118 + " " " 58 120 + Brussels.--Point à l'Aiguille " 58A 120 + Old Brussels.--Point d'Angleterre " 59 122 + " " " " 60 124 + MECHLIN, 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY PLATE XXXIX 126 + Mechlin.--Period Louis XVI. Fig. 61 127 + Mechlin, formerly belonging to H.M. Queen Charlotte " 62 128 + MECHLIN.--THREE SPECIMENS FROM VICTORIA AND ALBERT + MUSEUM PLATE XL 128 + A Lady of Antwerp Fig. 63 130 + Antwerp Pot Lace " 64 130 + Valenciennes Lace of Ypres " 65 132 + FLEMISH.--FLAT SPANISH BOBBIN LACE PLATE XLI 132 + FLEMISH.--GUIPURE DE FLANDRE " XLII 134 + BELGIAN.--BOBBIN-MADE, BINCHE " XLIII 136 + " " MARCHE " XLIV 136 + DRAWN AND EMBROIDERED MUSLIN, FLEMISH " XLV 136 + RUFF, EDGED WITH LACE " XLVI 142 + BRUSSELS.--FLOUNCE, BOBBIN-MADE " XLVII 144 + Cinq-Mars.--M. de Versailles Fig. 66 145 + " .--After his portrait by Le Wain " 67 146 + Lace Rose and Garter " 68 147 + Young Lady's Apron, time of Henry III " 69 148 + BRUSSELS.--BOBBIN-MADE, PERIOD LOUIS XIV. PLATE XLVIII 150 + " .--POINT D'ANGLETERRE À RÉSEAU " XLIX 150 + Anne of Austria Fig. 70 151 + A Courtier of the Regency " 71 152 + Canons of Louis XIV " 72 154 + Chateau de Louvai " 73 156 + CHENILLE RUN ON A BOBBIN-GROUND PLATE L 156 + BRUSSELS.--BOBBIN-MADE " LI 156 + Le Grand Bébé Fig. 74 162 + Louvois, 1691 " 75 163 + Madame de Maintenon " 76 164 + Lady in Morning déshabille " 77 165 + Le Grand Dauphin en Steinkerque " 78 168 + Madame du Lude en Steinkerque " 79 168 + Madame Palatine " 80 169 + BRUSSELS.--MODERN POINT DE GAZE PLATE LII 170 + Madame Sophie de France, 1782 Fig. 81 175 + Madame Adélaide de France " 82 176 + MADAME LOUISE DE FRANCE PLATE LIII 176 + Madame Thérèse Fig. 83 177 + Marie-Antoinette " 84 179 + Madame Adélaide de France " 85 182 + FRENCH.--BORDER OF POINT PLAT DE FRANCE PLATE LIV 188 + Colbert, + 1683 Fig. 86 189 + Venice Point " 87 191 + FRENCH.--POINT D'ALENÇON PLATE LV 192 + Argentella, or Point d'Alençon à Réseau Rosacé Fig. 88 194 + Bed made for Napoleon I. " 89 197 + Alençon Point à Petites Bredes " 90 200 + Point d'Alençon, Louis XV. " 91 200 + POINT D'ALENÇON. FLOUNCE PLATE LVI 202-3 + Point d'Argentan Fig. 92 204 + " " . Grande Bride ground " 93 206 + FRENCH.--POINT D'ARGENTAN, 18TH CENTURY PLATE LVII 208 + Point de Paris Fig. 94 210 + Point de France " 95 210 + FRENCH (OR DUTCH).--VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM PLATE LVIII 212 + Chantilly Fig. 96 214 + Cauchoise " 97 217 + FRENCH, CHANTILLY.--FLOUNCE PLATE LIX 218 + FRENCH, LE PUY.--BLACK SILK GUIPURE " LX 218 + Petit Poussin, Dieppe Fig. 98 219 + Ave Maria, Dieppe " 99 220 + Point de Dieppe " 100 221 + Dentelle à la Vierge " 101 222 + Duc de Peuthièvre " 102 223 + FRENCH.--BLONDE MALE, IN SPANISH STYLE PLATE LXI 226 + Modern Black Lace of Bayeux Fig. 103 227 + Point Colbert " 104 228 + Valenciennes, 1650-1780 " 105 230 + " Period, Louis XIV. " 106 232 + " 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY PLATE LXII 232 + " Fig. 107 234 + Valenciennes Lappet " 108 234 + Lille " 109 236 + " " 110 238 + Arras " 111 240 + FRENCH, CAMBRAI PLATES LXIII, LXIV 246 + FRENCH, LE PUY PLATE LXV 246 + Point de Bourgogne Fig. 112 256 + WILLIAM, PRINCE OF ORANGE PLATE LXVI 258 + Dutch Bobbin Lace Fig. 113 260 + Tomb of Barbara Uttmann " 114 261 + Barbara Uttmann " 114A 262 + SWISS, NEUCHATEL PLATE LXVII 264 + GERMAN, NUREMBERG " LXVIII 264 + ENGLISH, BUCKS " LXIX 264 + HUNGARIAN.--BOBBIN LACE " LXX 268 + AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN " LXXI 268 + Shirt Collar of Christian IV. Fig. 115 273 + Tönder Lace, Drawn Muslin " 116 274 + RUSSIAN--NEEDLEPOINT; GERMAN--SAXON PLATE LXXII 276 + RUSSIAN, OLD BOBBIN-MADE " LXXIII 276 + RUSSIAN, BOBBIN-MADE IN THREAD PLATE LXXIV 280 + Dalecarlian Lace Fig. 117 281 + Collar of Gustavus Adolphus " 118 282 + Russia, Bobbin-made, 19th Century " 119 284 + CAP, FLEMISH OR GERMAN PLATE XXV 288 + Fisher, Bishop of Rochester Fig. 120 292 + ENGLISH.--CUTWORK AND NEEDLE-POINT PLATE LXXVI 292 + ENGLISH.--DEVONSHIRE "TROLLY." " LXXVII 292 + Fisher, Bishop of Rochester Fig. 121 293 + MARIE DE LORRAINE PLATE LXXVIII 298 + Queen Elizabeth's Smock Fig. 122 308 + Christening Caps, Needle-made Brussels Figs. 123, 124 309 + MARY SIDNEY, COUNTESS OF PEMBROKE PLATE LXXIX 316 + HENRY WROTHESLEY, THIRD EARL OF SOUTHAMPTON " LXXX 320 + Monument of Princess Sophia Fig. 125 321 + " " " Mary " 126 322 + Mary, Countess of Pembroke " 127 323 + ELIZABETH, PRINCESS PALATINE PLATE LXXXI 326 + Falling Collar of the 17th Century Fig. 128 327 + Boots, Cuffs Figs. 129, 130 328 + English Needle-made Lace Fig. 131 328 + JAMES HARRINGTON PLATE LXXXII 332 + JAMES, THE OLD PRETENDER, AND HIS SISTER, PRINCESS + LOUISA PLATE LXXXIII 344 + JOHN LAW, THE PARIS BANKER " LXXXIV 352 + Ripon Fig. 132 373 + ENGLISH, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXV 374 + Buckinghamshire Trolly Fig. 133 381 + " Point " 134 382 + " " " 135 383 + ENGLISH, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXVI 384 + Old Flemish Fig. 136 385 + Old Brussels " 137 385 + "Run" Lace, Newport Pagnell " 138 386 + English Point, Northampton " 139 386 + "Baby" Lace, Northampton " 140 387 + " " Beds " 141 387 + " " Bucks " 142 387 + Wire Ground, Northampton " 143 388 + Valenciennes " " 144 388 + Regency Point, Bedford " 145 389 + Insertion, " " 146 389 + Plaited Lace, " " 147 392 + Raised Plait, " " 148 393 + ENGLISH, SUFFOLK, BOBBIN LACE PLATE LXXXVII 394 + English Needle-made Lace Fig. 149 396 + HONITON WITH THE VRAI RÉSEAU PLATE LXXXVIII 402 + Bone Lace from Cap, Devonshire Fig. 150 404 + Monument of Bishop Stafford, Exeter Cathedral " 151 406 + Monument of Lady Doddridge " " " 152 407 + Honiton, sewn on plain pillow ground " 153 408 + Old Devonshire " 154 408 + Honiton Guipure " 155 410 + Honeysuckle, Sprig of Modern Honiton " 156 411 + Old Devonshire Point " 157 412 + Lappet made by the late Mrs. Treadwin of Exeter " 158 412 + Venetian Relief in Point " 159 414 + ENGLISH.--DEVONSHIRE. FAN MADE AT BEER FOR THE PARIS + EXHIBITION, 1900 PLATE LXXXIX 416 + Sir Alexander Gibson Fig. 160 424 + Scotch, Hamilton " 161 431 + IRISH, YOUGHAL PLATE XC 436 + IRISH, CARRICKMACROSS " XCI 442 + IRISH, LIMERICK LACE " XCII 442 + IRISH, CROCHET LACE " XCIII 446 + Arms of the Framework Knitters' Company Fig. 162 447 + The Lagetta, or Lace-bark Tree " 163 456 + Metre P. Quinty Figs. 164, 165 460 + Pattern Book, Augsburg " 166, 167 462 + Augsburg Fig. 168 463 + Le Pompe, 1559 " 169 473 + Manner of Pricking Pattern " 170 486 + Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605 " 171 492 + Monogram " 172 492 + "Bavari," from "Ornamento nobile" of Lucretia Romana " 173 498 + +{1}HISTORY OF LACE. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +NEEDLEWORK. + + "As ladies wont + To finger the fine needle and nyse thread."--_Faerie Queene._ + +The art of lace-making has from the earliest times been so interwoven with +the art of needlework that it would be impossible to enter on the subject +of the present work without giving some mention of the latter. + +With the Egyptians the art of embroidery was general, and at Beni Hassan +figures are represented making a sort of net--"they that work in flax, and +they that weave network."[1] Examples of elaborate netting have been found +in Egyptian tombs, and mummy wrappings are ornamented with drawn-work, +cut-work, and other open ornamentation. The outer tunics of the robes of +state of important personages appear to be fashioned of network darned +round the hem with gold and silver and coloured silks. Amasis, King of +Egypt, according to Herodotus,[2] sent to Athene of Lindus a corslet with +figures interwoven with gold and cotton, and to judge from a passage of +Ezekiel, the Egyptians even embroidered the sails of their galleys which +they exported to Tyre.[3] + +{2}The Jewish embroiderers, even in early times, seem to have carried their +art to a high standard of execution. The curtains of the Tabernacle were of +"fine twined linen wrought with needlework, and blue, and purple, and +scarlet, with cherubims of cunning work."[4] Again, the robe of the ephod +was of gold and blue and purple and scarlet, and fine twined linen, and in +Isaiah we have mention of women's cauls and nets of checker-work. Aholiab +is specially recorded as a cunning workman, and chief embroiderer in blue, +and in purple, and in scarlet, and in fine linen,[5] and the description of +the virtuous woman in the Proverbs, who "layeth her hands to the spindle" +and clotheth herself in tapestry, and that of the king's daughter in the +Psalms, who shall be "brought unto the king in a raiment of needlework," +all plainly show how much the art was appreciated amongst the Jews.[6] +Finally Josephus, in his _Wars of the Jews_, mentions the veil presented to +the Temple by Herod (B.C. 19), a Babylonian curtain fifty cubits high, and +sixteen broad, embroidered in blue and red, "of marvellous texture, +representing the universe, the stars, and the elements." + +In the English Bible, _lace_ is frequently mentioned, but its meaning must +be qualified by the reserve due to the use of such a word in James I.'s +time. It is pretty evident that the translators used it to indicate a small +cord, since lace for decoration would be more commonly known at that time +as _purls_, _points_, or _cut-works_.[7] + +"Of lace amongst the Greeks we seem to have no evidence. Upon the +well-known red and black vases are all kinds of figures clad in costumes +which are bordered with ornamental patterns, but these were painted upon, +woven into, or embroidered upon the fabric. They were not lace. Many +centuries elapsed before a marked and elaborately ornamental character +infused itself into twisted, plaited, or looped thread-work. During such a +period the fashion of ornamenting borders of costumes and hangings existed, +and underwent a few phases, as, for instance, in the Elgin marbles, where +crimped {3}edges appear along the flowing Grecian dresses." Embroidered +garments, cloaks, veils and cauls, and networks of gold are frequently +mentioned in Homer and other early authors.[8] + +The countries of the Euphrates were renowned in classical times for the +beauty of their embroidered and painted stuffs which they manufactured.[9] +Nothing has come down to us of these Babylonian times, of which Greek and +Latin writers extolled the magnificence; but we may form some idea, from +the statues and figures engraved on cylinders, of what the weavers and +embroiderers of this ancient time were capable.[10] A fine stone in the +British Museum is engraved with the figure of a Babylonian king, +Merodach-Idin-Abkey, in embroidered robes, which speak of the art as +practised eleven hundred years B.C.[11] Josephus writes that the veils +given by Herod for the Temple were of Babylonian work ([Greek: peplos +babylônios])--the women excelling, according to Apollonius, in executing +designs of varied colours. + +The Sidonian women brought by Paris to Troy embroidered veils of such rich +work that Hecuba deemed them worthy of being offered to Athene; and Lucan +speaks of the Sidonian veil worn by Cleopatra at a feast in her Alexandrine +palace, in honour of Cæsar.[12] + +Phrygia was also renowned for its needlework, and from the shores of +Phrygia Asiatic and Babylonian embroideries were shipped to Greece and +Italy. The _toga picta_, worked with Phrygian embroidery, was worn by Roman +generals at their triumphs and by the consuls when they celebrated the +games; hence embroidery itself is styled "Phrygian,"[13] {4}and the Romans +knew it under no other name (_opus Phrygianum_).[14] + +Gold needles and other working implements have been discovered in +Scandinavian tumuli. In the _London Chronicle_ of 1767 will be found a +curious account of the opening of a Scandinavian barrow near Wareham, in +Dorsetshire. Within the hollow trunk of an oak were discovered many bones +wrapped in a covering of deerskins neatly sewn together. There were also +the remains of a piece of gold lace, four inches long and two and a half +broad. This lace was black and much decayed, of the old lozenge +pattern,[15] that most ancient and universal of all designs, again found +depicted on the coats of ancient Danes, where the borders are edged with an +open or net-work of the same pattern. + +[Illustration: Fig. 1. + +GOLD LACE FOUND IN A BARROW.] + +Passing to the first ages of the Christian era, we find the pontifical +ornaments, the altar and liturgical cloths, and the draperies then in +common use for hanging between the colonnades and porches of churches all +worked with holy images and histories from the Holy Writ. Rich men chose +sacred subjects to be embroidered on their dress, and one senator wore 600 +figures worked upon his robes of state. Asterius, Bishop of Amasus, +thunders against those Christians "who wore the Gospels upon their backs +instead of in their hearts."[16] + +In the Middle Ages spinning and needlework were the occupation of women of +all degrees. As early as the sixth {5}century the nuns in the diocese of +St. Césaire, Bishop of Arles, were forbidden to embroider robes enriched +with paintings, flowers, and precious stones. This prohibition, however, +was not general. Near Ely, an Anglo-Saxon lady brought together a number of +maidens to work for the monastery, and in the seventh century an Abbess of +Bourges, St. Eustadiole, made vestments and enriched the altar with the +work of her nuns. At the beginning of the ninth century St. Viborade, of +St. Gall, worked coverings for the sacred books of the monastery, for it +was the custom then to wrap in silk and carry in a linen cloth the Gospels +used for the offices of the Church.[17] Judith of Bavaria, mother of +Charles the Bold, stood sponsor for the Queen of Harold, King of Denmark, +who came to Ingelheim to be baptised with all his family, and gave her a +robe she had worked with her own hands and studded with precious stones. + +"Berthe aux grands pieds," the mother of Charlemagne, was celebrated for +her skill in needlework,[18] + + "à ouvrer si com je vous dirai + N'avoit meillor ouvriere de Tours jusqu'à Cambrai;" + +while Charlemagne[19]-- + + "Ses filles fist bien doctriner, + Et aprendre keudre et filer." + +Queen Adelhaïs, wife of Hugh Capet (987-996), presented to the Church of +St. Martin at Tours a cope, on the back of which she had embroidered the +Deity, surrounded by seraphim and cherubim, the front being worked with an +Adoration of the Lamb of God.[20] + +Long before the Conquest, Anglo-Saxon women were skilled with the needle, +and gorgeous are the accounts of the gold-starred and scarlet-embroidered +tunics and violet sacks worked by the nuns. St. Dunstan himself designed +the ornaments of a stole worked by the hands of a noble Anglo-Saxon lady, +Ethelwynne, and sat daily in her bower with her maidens, directing the +work. The four daughters of {6}Edward the Elder are all praised for their +needle's skill. Their father, says William of Malmesbury, had caused them +in childhood "to give their whole attention to letters, and afterwards +employed them in the labours of the distaff and the needle." In 800 +Denbert, Bishop of Durham, granted the lease of a farm of 200 acres for +life to an embroideress named Eanswitha for the charge of scouring, +repairing, and renewing the vestments of the priests of his diocese.[21] +The Anglo-Saxon Godric, Sheriff of Buckingham, granted to Alcuid half a +hide of land as long as he should be sheriff on condition she taught his +daughter the art of embroidery. In the tenth century Ælfleda, a high-born +Saxon lady, offered to the church at Ely a curtain on which she had wrought +the deeds of her husband, Brithnoth, slain by the Danes; and Edgitha, Queen +of Edward the Confessor, was "perfect mistress of her needle." + +The famous Bayeux Tapestry or embroidery, said to have been worked by +Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, is of great historical +interest.[22] It is, according to the chroniclers, "Une tente très longue +et estroite de telle a broderies de ymages et escriptaux faisant +représentation du Conquest de l'Angleterre"; a needle-wrought epic of the +Norman Conquest, worked on a narrow band of stout linen over 200 feet long, +and containing 1,255 figures worked on worsted threads.[23] Mr. Fowke gives +the Abbé Rue's doubts as to the accepted period of the Bayeux tapestry, +which he assigns to the Empress Matilda. Mr. Collingwood Bruce is of +opinion that the work is coeval with the events it records, as the +primitive furniture, buildings, etc., are all of the eleventh century. That +the tapestry is not found in any catalogue before 1369 is only a piece of +presumptive evidence against the earlier date, and must be weighed with the +internal evidence in its favour. + +After the Battle of Hastings William of Normandy, on {7}his first +appearance in public, clad himself in a richly-wrought cloak of Anglo-Saxon +embroidery, and his secretary, William of Poictiers, states that "the +English women are eminently skilful with the needle and in weaving." + +The excellence of the English work was maintained as time went on, and a +proof of this is found in an anecdote preserved by Matthew of Paris.[24] +"About this time (1246) the Lord Pope (Innocent IV.) having observed the +ecclesiastical ornaments of some Englishmen, such as choristers' copes and +mitres, were embroidered in gold thread after a very desirable fashion, +asked where these works were made, and received in answer, in England. +'Then,' said the Pope, 'England is surely a garden of delights for us. It +is truly a never-failing spring, and there, where many things abound, much +may be extracted.' Accordingly, the same Lord Pope sent sacred and sealed +briefs to nearly all the abbots of the Cistercian order established in +England, requesting them to have forthwith forwarded to him those +embroideries in gold which he preferred to all others, and with which he +wished to adorn his chasuble and choral cope, as if these objects cost them +nothing," an order which, adds the chronicler, "was sufficiently pleasing +to the merchants, but the cause of many persons detesting him for his +covetousness." + +Perhaps the finest examples of the _opus anglicanum_ extant are the cope +and maniple of St. Cuthbert, taken from his coffin in the Cathedral of +Durham, and now preserved in the Chapter library. One side of the maniple +is of gold lace stitched on, worked apparently on a parchment pattern. The +Syon Monastery cope, in the Victoria and Albert Museum, is an invaluable +example of English needlework of the thirteenth century. "The greater +portion of its design is worked in a chain-stitch (modern tambour or +crochet), especially in the faces of the figures, where the stitch begins +in the centre, say, of a cheek, and is then worked in a spiral, thus +forming a series of circular lines. The texture so obtained is then, by +means of a hot, small and round-knobbed iron, pressed into indentations at +the centre of each spiral, and an effect of relief imparted to it. The +general {8}practice was to work the draperies in feather-stitch (_opus +plumarium_)."[25] + +In the tenth century the art of pictorial embroidery had become universally +spread. The inventory of the Holy See (in 1293) mentions the embroideries +of Florence, Milan, Lucca, France, England, Germany, and Spain, and +throughout the Middle Ages embroidery was treated as a fine art, a serious +branch of painting.[26] In France the fashion continued, as in England, of +producing groups, figures and portraits, but a new development was given to +floral and elaborate arabesque ornament.[27] + +It was the custom in feudal times[28] for knightly families to send their +daughters to the castles of their suzerain lords, there to be trained to +spin, weave and embroider under the eye of the lady châtelaine, a custom +which, in the more primitive countries, continued even to the French +Revolution. In the French romances these young ladies are termed +"chambrières," in our English, simply "the maidens." Great ladies prided +themselves upon the number of their attendants, and passed their mornings +at work, their labours beguiled by singing the "chansons à toile," as the +ballads written for those occasions were termed.[29] + +{9}In the wardrobe accounts of our kings appear constant entries of working +materials purchased for the royal ladies.[30] There is preserved in the +cathedral at Prague an altar-cloth of embroidery and cut-work worked by +Anne of Bohemia, Queen of Richard II. + +During the Wars of the Roses, when a duke of the blood royal is related to +have begged alms in the streets of the rich Flemish towns, ladies of rank, +more fortunate in their education, gained, like the French emigrants of +more modern days, their subsistence by the products of their needle.[31] + +Without wishing to detract from the industry of mediæval ladies, it must be +owned that the swampy state of the country, the absence of all roads, save +those to be traversed in the fine season by pack-horses, and the deficiency +of all suitable outdoor amusement but that of hawking, caused them to while +away their time within doors the best way they could. Not twenty years +since, in the more remote provinces of France, a lady who quitted her house +daily would be remarked on. "Elle sort beaucoup," folks would say, as +though she were guilty of dissipation. + +So queens and great ladies sewed on. We hear much of works of adornment, +more still of piety, when Katharine of Aragon appears on the scene. She had +learned much in her youth from her mother, Queen Isabella, and had probably +{10}assisted at those "trials" of needlework[32] established by that +virtuous queen among the Spanish ladies:-- + + "Her days did pass + In working with the needle curiously."[33] + +It is recorded how, when Wolsey, with the papal legate Campeggio, going to +Bridewell, begged an audience of Queen Katharine, on the subject of her +divorce, they found her at work, like Penelope of old, with her maids, and +she came to them with a skein of red silk about her neck.[34] + +Queen Mary Tudor is supposed, by her admirers, to have followed the example +of her illustrious mother, though all we find among the entries is a charge +"to working materials for Jane the Fole, one shilling." + +No one would suspect Queen Elizabeth of solacing herself with the needle. +Every woman, however, had to make one shirt in her lifetime, and the "Lady +Elizabeth's grace," on the second anniversary of Prince Edward's birth, +when only six years of age, presented her brother with a cambric smock +wrought by her own hands. + +The works of Scotland's Mary, who early studied all female accomplishments +under her governess, Lady Fleming, {11}are too well known to require +notice. In her letters are constant demands for silk and other working +materials wherewith to solace her long captivity. She had also studied +under Catherine de Médicis, herself an unrivalled needlewoman, who had +brought over in her train from Florence the designer for embroidery, +Frederick Vinciolo. Assembling her daughters, Claude, Elizabeth and +Margaret, with Mary Stuart, and her Guise cousins, "elle passoit," says +Brantôme, "fort son temps les apres-disnées à besogner apres ses ouvrages +de soye, où elle estoit tant parfaicte qu'il estoit possible."[35] The +ability of Reine Margot[36] is sung by Ronsard, who exalts her as imitating +Pallas in the art.[37] + +Many of the great houses in England are storehouses of old needlework. +Hatfield, Penshurst, and Knole are all filled with the handiwork of their +ladies. The Countess of Shrewsbury, better known as "Building Bess," Bess +of Hardwick, found time to embroider furniture for her palaces, and her +samplar patterns hang to this day on their walls. + +Needlework was the daily employment of the convent. As early as the +fourteenth century[38] it was termed "nun's work"; and even now, in +secluded parts of the kingdom, ancient lace is styled by that name.[39] + +Nor does the occupation appear to have been solely {12}confined to women. +We find monks commended for their skill in embroidery,[40] and in the +frontispieces of some of the early pattern books of the sixteenth century, +men are represented working at frames, and these books are stated to have +been written "for the profit of men as well as of women."[41] Many were +composed by monks,[42] and in the library[43] of St. Geneviève at Paris, +are several works of this class, inherited from the monastery of that name. +As these books contain little or no letterpress, they could scarcely have +been collected by the monks unless with a view to using them. + +At the dissolution of the monasteries, the ladies of the great Roman +Catholic families came to the rescue. Of the widow of the ill-fated Earl of +Arundel it is recorded: "Her gentlewomen and chambermaids she ever busied +in works ordained for the service of the Church. She permitted none to be +idle at any time."[44] + +Instructions in the art of embroidery were now at a premium. The old nuns +had died out, and there were none to replace them. + +Mrs. Hutchinson, in her _Memoirs_, enumerates, among the eight tutors she +had at seven years of age, one for needlework, while Hannah Senior, about +the same period, entered the service of the Earl of Thomond, to teach his +daughters the use of their needle, with the salary of £200 a year. The +money, however, was never paid; so she petitions the Privy Council for +leave to sue him.[45] + +When, in 1614, the King of Siam applied to King James for an English wife, +a gentleman of "honourable parentage" offers his daughter, whom he +describes of excellent parts for "music, her needle, and good +discourse."[46] And these are the sole accomplishments he mentions. The +bishops, however, shocked at the proceeding, interfered, and put an end to +the projected alliance. + +[Illustration: PLATE I. + +ARGENTAN.--Showing buttonhole stitched réseau and "brides bouclées." + +CIRCULAR BOBBIN RÉSEAU.--Variety of Mechlin. + +VENETIAN NEEDLE-POINT. Portions of lace very much enlarged to show details +of stitches.] + +[Illustration: VENETIAN NEEDLE-POINT.] + +{13}No ecclesiastical objection, however, was made to the epitaph of +Catherine Sloper--she sleeps in the cloisters of Westminster Abbey, 1620:-- + + "Exquisite at her needle." + +Till a very late date, we have ample record of the esteem in which this art +was held. + +In the days of the Commonwealth, Mrs. Walker is described to have been as +well skilled in needlework "as if she had been brought up in a convent." +She kept, however, a gentlewoman for teaching her daughters. + +Evelyn, again, praises the talent of his daughter, Mrs. Draper. "She had," +writes he, "an extraordinary genius for whatever hands could do with a +needle." + +The queen of Charles I. and the wives of the younger Stuarts seem to have +changed the simple habits of their royal predecessors, for when Queen Mary, +in her Dutch simplicity, sat for hours at the knotted fringe, her favourite +employment, Bishop Burnet, her biographer, adds, "It was a strange thing to +see a queen work for so many hours a day," and her homely habits formed a +never-ending subject of ridicule for the wit of Sir Charles Sedley.[47] + +From the middle of the last century, or rather apparently from the French +Revolution, the more artistic style of needlework and embroidery fell into +decadence. The simplicity of male costume rendered it a less necessary +adjunct to female or, indeed, male education. However, two of the greatest +generals of the Republic, Hoche and Moreau, followed the employment of +embroidering satin waistcoats long after they had entered the military +service. We may look upon the art now as almost at an end. + + + + +{14}CHAPTER II. + +CUT-WORK. + +"These workes belong chiefly to gentlewomen to passe away their time in +vertuous exercises." + + "Et lors, sous vos lacis à mille fenestrages + Raiseuls et poinct couppés et tous vos clairs ouvrages." + --_Jean Godard_, 1588. + +It is from that open-work embroidery which in the sixteenth century came +into such universal use that we must derive the origin of lace, and, in +order to work out the subject, trace it through all its gradations. + +This embroidery, though comprising a wide variety of decoration, went by +the general name of cut-work. + +The fashion of adorning linen has prevailed from the earliest times. Either +the edges were worked with close embroidery--the threads drawn and +fashioned with a needle in various forms--or the ends of the cloth +unravelled and plaited with geometric precision. + +To judge from the description of the linen grave-clothes of St. +Cuthbert,[48] as given by an eye-witness to his disinterment in the twelfth +century, they were ornamented in a manner similar to that we have +described. "There had been," says the chronicler, "put over him a sheet ... +this sheet had a fringe of linen thread of a finger's length; upon its +sides and ends were woven a border of projecting workmanship fabricated of +the thread itself, bearing the figures of birds and beasts so arranged that +between every two pairs there were interwoven among them the representation +of a branching tree which divides the figures. This tree, so tastefully +depicted, appears to be putting forth its leaves," etc. There can be no +doubt that this sheet, for many centuries preserved in the cathedral church +of Durham, was a specimen of cut-work, which, though later it came into +general use, was, at an early period of our history, alone used for +ecclesiastical purposes, and an art which was, till the dissolution of +monasteries, looked upon as a church secret. + +[Illustration: PLATE II. + +ITALIAN BOBBIN RÉSEAU. + +SIX-POINTED STAR-MESHED BOBBIN RÉSEAU.--Variety of Valenciennes. + +BRUSSELS BOBBIN RÉSEAU. + +FOND CHANT OF CHANTILLY AND POINT DE PARIS. + +Valenciennes. Lille. Toilé. + +DETAILS OF BOBBIN RÉSEAU AND TOILÉ. + +Alençon réseau. + +DETAILS OF NEEDLE RÉSEAU AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES. + +Portions of lace very much enlarged to show details of stitches.] + + _To face page 14._ + +{15}Though cut-work is mentioned in Hardyng's _Chronicle_,[49] when +describing the luxury in King Richard II.'s reign, he says:-- + + "Cut werke was greate both in court and townes, + Both in menes hoddis and also in their gownes," + +yet this oft-quoted passage, no more than that of Chaucer, in which he +again accuses the priests of wearing gowns of scarlet and green colours +ornamented with cut-work, can scarcely be received as evidence of this mode +of decoration being in general use. The royal wardrobe accounts of that day +contain no entries on the subject. It applies rather to the fashion of +cutting out[50] pieces of velvet or other materials, and sewing them down +to the garment with a braid like ladies' work of the present time. Such +garments were in general use, as the inventories of mediæval times fully +attest. + +The linen shirt or smock was the special object of adornment, and on the +decoration of the collar and sleeves much time and ingenuity were expended. + +In the ancient ballad of "Lord Thomas,"[51] the fair Annette cries:-- + + "My maids, gae to my dressing-room, + And dress me in my smock; + The one half is o' the Holland fine, + The other o' needlework." + +Chaucer, too, does not disdain to describe the embroidery of a lady's +smock-- + + "White was her smocke, embrouded all before + And eke behynde, on her colar aboute, + Of cole blacke sylke, within and eke without." + +The sums expended on the decoration of this most necessary article of dress +sadly excited the wrath of {16}Stubbes, who thus vents his indignation: +"These shirtes (sometymes it happeneth) are wrought throughout with +needlework of silke, and such like, and curiously stitched with open seame, +and many other knackes besides, more than I can describe; in so much, I +have heard of shirtes that have cost some ten shillynges, some twenty, some +forty, some five pounds, some twenty nobles, and (which is horrible to +heare) some ten pound a pece."[52] + +Up to the time of Henry VIII. the shirt was "pynched" or plaited-- + + "Come nere with your shirtes bordered and displayed, + In foarme of surplois."[53] + +These,[54] with handkerchiefs,[55] sheets, and pillow-beres,[56] +(pillow-cases), were embroidered with silks of various {17}colours, until +the fashion gradually gave place to cut-work, which, in its turn, was +superseded by lace. + +The description of the widow of John Whitcomb, a wealthy clothier of +Newbury, in Henry VIII.'s reign, when she laid aside her weeds, is the +first notice we have of cutwork being in general use. "She came," says the +writer, "out of the kitchen in a fair train gown stuck full of silver pins, +having a white cap upon her head, with cuts of curious needlework, the same +an apron, white as the driven snow." + +We are now arrived at the Renaissance, a period when so close a union +existed between the fine arts and manufactures; when the most trifling +object of luxury, instead of being consigned to the vulgar taste of the +mechanic, received from artists their most graceful inspirations. +Embroidery profited by the general impulse, and books of designs were +composed for that species which, under the general name of cut-work, formed +the great employment for the women of the day. The volume most generally +circulated, especially among the ladies of the French court, for whose use +it was designed, is that of the Venetian Vinciolo, to whom some say, we +know not on what authority, Catherine de Médicis granted, in 1585, the +exclusive privilege of making and selling the _collerettes gaudronnées_[57] +she had herself introduced. This work, which passed through many editions, +dating from 1587 to 1623, is entitled, "Les singuliers et nouveaux +pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie. Servans de patrons à faire toutes +sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. Dedié à la Royne. Nouvellement +inventez, au proffit et contentement des nobles Dames et Demoiselles & +autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de +Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc le jeune, etc., 1587." + +Two little figures, representing ladies in the costume of the period, with +working-frames in their hands, decorate the title-page.[58] + +The work is in two books: the first of Point Coupé, or {18}rich geometric +patterns, printed in white upon a black ground (Fig. 2); the second of +Lacis, or subjects in squares (Fig. 3), with counted stitches, like the +patterns for worsted-work of the present day--the designs, the seven +planets, Neptune, and various squares, borders, etc. + +Vinciolo dedicates his book to Louise de Vaudemont, the neglected Queen of +Henry III., whose portrait, with that of the king, is added to the later +editions. + +Various other pattern-books had already been published. The earliest +bearing a date is one printed at Cologne in 1527.[59] + +[Illustration: Fig. 2. + +POINT COUPÉ.--(Vinciolo.)] + +These books are scarce; being designed for patterns, and traced with a +metal style, or pricked through, many perished in the using. They are much +sought after by the collector as among the early specimens of wood-block +printing. We give therefore in the Appendix a list of those we find +recorded, or of which we have seen copies, observing that the greater +number, though generally composed for one particular art, may be applied +indifferently to any kind of ornamental work. + +PLATE III. + +[Illustration: Altar or Table Cloth of fine linen embroidered with gold +thread, laid, and in satin stitches on both sides. The Cut out spaces are +filled with white thread needle-point lace. The edging is alternated of +white and gold thread needle-point lace. Probably Italian. Late sixteenth +century.--Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 18_ + +{19}Cut-work was made in several manners. The first consisted in arranging +a network of threads upon a small frame, crossing and interlacing them into +various complicated patterns. Beneath this network was gummed a piece of +fine cloth, called quintain,[60] from the town in Brittany where it was +made. Then, with a needle, the network was sewn to the quintain by edging +round those parts of the pattern that were to remain thick. The last +operation was to cut away the superfluous cloth; hence the name of +cut-work. + +[Illustration: Fig. 3. + +LACIS.--(Vinciolo. _Edition_ 1588.) + +Ce Pelican contient en longueur 70 mailles et en hauteur 65.] + +{20}The author of the _Consolations aux Dames_, 1620, in addressing the +ladies, thus specially alludes to the custom of working on quintain:-- + + "Vous n'employiez les soirs et les matins + A façonner vos grotesques quaintains, + O folle erreur--O despence excessive." + +Again, the pattern was made without any linen at all; threads, radiating at +equal distances from one common centre, served as a framework to others +which were united to them in squares, triangles, rosettes, and other +geometric forms, worked over with button-hole stitch (_point noué_), +forming in some parts open-work, in others a heavy compact embroidery. In +this class may be placed the old conventual cut-work of Italy, generally +termed Greek lace, and that of extraordinary fineness and beauty which is +assigned to Venice. Distinct from all these geometric combinations was the +lacis[61] of the sixteenth century, done on a network ground (_réseau_), +identical with the _opus araneum_ or spider-work of continental writers, +the "darned netting" or modern _filet brodé à reprises_ of the French +embroiderers. + +The ground consisted of a network of square meshes, on which was worked the +pattern, sometimes cut out of linen and appliqué,[62] but more usually +darned with stitches like tapestry. This darning-work was easy of +execution, and the stitches being regulated by counting the meshes,[63] +effective geometric patterns could be produced. Altar-cloths, baptismal +napkins, as well as bed coverlets and table-cloths, were decorated with +these squares of net embroidery. In the Victoria and Albert Museum there +are several {21}gracefully-designed borders to silk table-covers in this +work, made both of white and coloured threads, and of silk of various +shades. The ground, as we learn from a poem on lacis, affixed to the +pattern-book of "Milour Mignerak,"[64] was made by beginning a single +stitch, and increasing a stitch on each side until the required size was +obtained. If a strip or long border was to be made, the netting was +continued to its prescribed length, and then finished off by reducing a +stitch on each side till it was decreased to one, as garden nets are made +at the present day. + +This plain netted ground was called _réseau_, _rézel_, _rézeuil_,[65] and +was much used for bed-curtains, vallances, etc. + +In the inventory of Mary Stuart, made at Fotheringay,[66] we find, "Le lict +d'ouvrage à rezel"; and again, under the care of Jane Kennethee, the +"Furniture of a bedd of network and Holland intermixed, not yet finished." + +When the _réseau_ was decorated with a pattern, it was termed _lacis_, or +darned netting, the Italian _punto ricamato a maglia quadra_, and, combined +with _point-coupé_, was much used for bed-furniture. It appears to have +been much employed for church-work,[67] for the sacred emblems. The Lamb +and the Pelican are frequently represented.[68] + +{22}In the inventory of Sir John Foskewe (modern Fortescue), Knight, time +of Henry VIII., we find in the hall, "A hanging of green saye, bordered +with darning." + +Queen Mary Stuart, previous to the birth of James I. (1560), made a will, +which still exists,[69] with annotations in her own handwriting. After +disposing of her jewels and objects of value, she concludes by bequeathing +"tous mes ouvrages masches et collets aux 4 Maries, à Jean Stuart, et Marie +Sunderland, et toutes les filles";--"masches,"[70] with _punti a maglia_, +being among the numerous terms applied to this species of work. + +These "ouvrages masches" were doubtless the work of Queen Mary and her +ladies. She had learned the art at the French court, where her +sister-in-law, Reine Margot, herself also a prisoner for many life-long +years, appears to have occupied herself in the same manner, for we find in +her accounts,[71] "Pour des moulles et esguilles pour faire rezeuil la +somme de iiii. L. tourn." And again, "Pour avoir monté une fraize neufve de +reseul la somme de X. sols tourn." + +Catherine de Médicis had a bed draped with squares of reseuil or lacis, and +it is recorded that "the girls and servants of her household consumed much +time in making squares of reseuil." The inventory of her property and goods +includes a coffer containing three hundred and eighty-one of such squares +unmounted, whilst in another were found five hundred and thirty-eight +squares, some worked with rosettes or with blossoms, and others with +nosegays.[72] + +Though the work of Milour Mignerak, already quoted, is dedicated to the +Trés-Chrestienne Reine de France et de Navarre, Marie de Médicis, and bears +her cipher and arms, yet in the decorated frontispiece is a cushion with a +piece of lacis in progress, the pattern a daisy looking at the sun, the +favourite impresa of her predecessor, the divorced Marguerite, now, by +royal ordinance, "Marguerite Reine, Duchesse de Valois." (Fig. 4.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 5. + +ELIZABETHAN SAMPLER.] + +_To face page 22._ + +{23}These pattern-books being high in price and difficult to procure, +teachers of the art soon caused the various patterns to be reproduced in +"samcloths,"[73] as samplars were then termed, and young ladies worked at +them diligently as a proof of their competency in the arts of cut-work, +lacis and réseuil, much as a dame-school child did her A B C in the country +villages some years ago. Proud mothers caused these _chefs-d'oeuvre_ of +their children to be framed and glazed; hence many have come down to us +hoarded up in old families uninjured at the present time. (Fig. 5.) + +A most important specimen of lacis was exhibited at the Art International +Exhibition of 1874, by Mrs. Hailstone, of Walton Hall, an altar frontal 14 +feet by 4 feet, executed in point conté, representing eight scenes from the +Passion of Christ, in all fifty-six figures, surrounded by Latin +inscriptions. It is assumed to be of English workmanship. + +[Illustration: Fig. 4. + +IMPRESA OF QUEEN MARGARET OF NAVARRE IN LACIS.--(Mignerak.)] + +Some curious pieces of ancient lacis were also exhibited (_circ._ 1866) at +the Museum of South Kensington by Dr. Bock, of Bonn. Among others, two +specimens of coloured silk network, the one ornamented with small +embroidered shields and crosses (Fig. 6), the other with the mediæval +gammadion pattern (Fig. 7). In the same collection was a towel or +altar-cloth of ancient German work--a coarse net ground, worked over with +the lozenge pattern.[74] + +{24}But most artistic of all was a large ecclesiastical piece, some three +yards in length. The design portrays the Apostles, with angels and saints. +These two last-mentioned objects are of the sixteenth century. + +When used for altar-cloths, bed-curtains, or coverlets, to produce a +greater effect it was the custom to alternate the lacis with squares of +plain linen. + + "An apron set with many a dice + Of needlework sae rare, + Wove by nae hand, as ye may guess, + Save that of Fairly fair." + Ballad of Hardyknute. + +[Illustration: Fig. 6. + +"SPIDERWORK," THIRTEENTH CENTURY.--(Bock Coll. South Kensington Museum).] + +[Illustration: Fig. 7. + +"SPIDERWORK," FOURTEENTH CENTURY.--(Bock Coll. South Kensington Museum.)] + +This work formed the great delight of provincial ladies in France. Jean +Godard, in his poem on the Glove,[75] alluding to this occupation, says:-- + + "Une femme gantée oeuvre en tapisserie + En raizeaux deliez et toute lingerie + Elle file--elle coud et fait passement + De toutes les fassons...." + +The armorial shield of the family, coronets, monograms, the beasts of the +Apocalypse, with fleurs-de-lys, sacrés coeurs, for the most part adorned +those pieces destined for the use of the Church. If, on the other hand, +intended for a pall, death's-heads, cross-bones and tears, with the +sacramental cup, left no doubt of the destination of the article. + +PLATE IV. + +[Illustration: FAN MADE AT BURANO AND PRESENTED TO QUEEN ELENA OF ITALY ON +HER MARRIAGE, 1896. + +Photo by the Burano School.] + +PLATE V. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. PUNTO REALE.--Modern reproduction by the Society +Æmilia Ars, Bologna. + +Photo by the Society.] + +_To face page 24._ + +{25}As late as 1850, a splendid cut-work pall still covered the coffins of +the fishers when borne in procession through the streets of Dieppe. It is +said to have been a votive offering worked by the hands of some lady saved +from shipwreck, and presented as a memorial of her gratitude. + +In 1866, when present at a peasant's wedding in the church of St. Lo (Dép. +Manche), the author observed that the "toile d'honneur," which is always +held extended over the heads of the married pair while the priest +pronounces the blessing, was of the finest cut-work, trimmed with lace. + +Both in the north and south of Europe the art still lingers on. Swedish +housewives pierce and stitch the holiday collars of their husbands and +sons, and careful ladies, drawing the threads of the fine linen sheets +destined for the "guest-chamber," produce an ornament of geometric design. + +Scarce fifty years since, an expiring relic of this art might be sometimes +seen on the white smock-frock of the English labourer, which, independent +of elaborate stitching, was enriched with an insertion of cut-work, running +from the collar to the shoulder crossways, like that we see decorating the +surplices of the sixteenth century. + +Drawn-thread embroidery is another cognate work. The material in old +drawn-work is usually loosely-woven linen. Certain threads were drawn out +from the linen ground, and others left, upon and between which needlework +was made. Its employment in the East dates from very early times, and +withdrawing threads from a fabric is perhaps referred to in Lucan's +_Pharsalia_:--[76] + + "Candida Sidonio perlucent pectora filo, + Quod Nilotis acus compressum pectine Serum + Solvit, et extenso laxavit stamina velo." + +"Her white breasts shine through the Sidonian fabric, which pressed down +with the comb (or sley) of the Seres, the needle of the Nile workman has +separated, and has loosened the warp by stretching out (or withdrawing) the +weft." + + + + +{26}CHAPTER III. + +LACE. + + "Je demandai de la dentelle: + Voici le tulle de Bruxelles, + La blonde, le point d'Alençon, + Et la Maline, si légère; + L'application d'Angleterre + (Qui se fait à Paris, dit-on); + Voici la guipure indigène, + Et voici la Valenciennes, + Le point d'esprit, et le point de Paris; + Bref les dentelles + Les plus nouvelles + Que produisent tous les pays." + _Le Palais des Dentelles_ (Rothomago). + +Lace[77] is defined as a plain or ornamental network, wrought of fine +threads of gold, silver, silk, flax, or cotton, interwoven, to which may be +added "poil de chèvre," and also the fibre of the aloe, employed by the +peasants of Italy and Spain. The term _lacez_ rendered in the English +translation of the Statutes[78] as "laces," implying braids, such as were +used for uniting the different parts of the dress, appears long before +lace, properly so called, came into use. The earlier laces, such as they +were, were defined by the word "passament"[79]--a general term for gimps +and braids, as well as for lace. Modern industry has separated these two +classes of work, but their being formerly so confounded renders it +difficult in historic researches to separate one from the other. + +The same confusion occurs in France, where the first lace was called +_passement_, because it was applied to the same {27}use, to braid or lay +flat over the coats and other garments. The lace trade was entirely in the +hands of the "passementiers" of Paris, who were allowed to make all sorts +of "passements de dentelle sur l'oreiller aux fuseaux, aux épingles, et à +la main, d'or, d'argent, tant fin que faux, de soye, de fil blanc, et de +couleur," etc. They therefore applied the same terms to their different +products, whatever the material. + +The word _passement_ continued to be in use till the middle of the +seventeenth century, it being specified as "passements aux fuseaux," +"passements à l'aiguille"; only it was more specifically applied to lace +without an edge. + +The term _dentelle_ is also of modern date, nor will it be found in the +earlier French dictionaries.[80] It was not till fashion caused the +passament to be made with a toothed edge that the expression of "passement +dentelé" first appears. + +In the accounts of Henry II. of France, and his queen, we have frequent +notices of "passement jaulne dantellé des deux costez,"[81] "passement de +soye incarnat dentellé d'un costé,"[82] etc., etc., but no mention of the +word "dentelle." It does, however, occur in an inventory of an earlier +date, that of Marguerite de France, sister of Francis I., who, in 1545, +paid the sum of VI. livres "pour soixante aulnes, fine dantelle de Florance +pour mettre à des colletz."[83] + +After a lapse of twenty years and more, among the articles furnished to +Mary Stuart in 1567, is "Une pacque de petite dentelle";[84] and this is +the sole mention of the word in all her accounts. + +{28}We find like entries in the accounts of Henry IV.'s first queen.[85] + +Gradually the passement dentelé subsided into the modern dentelle. + +[Illustration: Fig. 8. + +GRANDE DANTELLE AU POINT DEVANT L'AIGUILLE.--(Montbéliard, 1598.)] + +It is in a pattern book, published at Montbéliard in 1598,[86] we first +find designs for "dantelles." It contains {29}twenty patterns, of all +sizes, "bien petites, petites" (Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12), "moyennes, et +grosses" (Fig. 8). + +[Illustration: Fig. 9. + +PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 10. + +PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] + +The word _dentelle_ seems now in general use; but Vecellio, in his +_Corona_, 1592, has "opere a mazette," pillow lace, and Mignerak first +gives the novelty of "passements au fuzeau," pillow lace (Fig. 13), for +which Vinciolo, in his edition of 1623, also furnishes patterns (Figs. 14 +and 15); and Parasoli, 1616, gives designs for "merli a piombini" (Fig. +16). + +[Illustration: Fig. 11. + +PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 12. + +PETITE DANTELLE.--(1598.)] + +In the inventory of Henrietta Maria, dated 1619,[87] appear a variety of +laces, all qualified under the name of "passement"; and in that of the +Maréchal La Motte, 1627, we find the term applied to every description of +lace. + +{30}"Item, quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de passement, tant de +Venise, Gennes, et de Malines."[88] + +Lace consists of two parts, the ground and the pattern. + +The plain ground is styled in French _entoilage_, on account of its +containing the flower or ornament, which is called _toilé_, from the flat +close texture resembling linen, and also from its being often made of that +material or of muslin. + +[Illustration: Fig. 13. + +PASSEMENT AU FUSEAU.--(Mignerak, 1605.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 14. + +PASSEMENT AU FUSEAU.--(Vinciolo, _Edition_ 1623.)] + +The honeycomb network or ground, in French _fond_, _champ_,[89] _réseau_, +_treille_, is of various kinds: wire ground, Brussels ground, trolly +ground, etc., _fond clair_, _fond double_, etc. + +{31}Some laces, points and guipures are not worked upon a ground; the +flowers are connected by irregular threads overcast (buttonhole stitch), +and sometimes worked over with pearl loops (picot). Such are the points of +Venice and Spain and most of the guipures. To these uniting threads, called +by our lace-makers "pearl ties"--old Randle Holme[90] styles them +"coxcombs"--the Italians give the name of "legs," the French that of +"brides."[91] + +[Illustration: Fig. 15. + +PASSEMENT AU FUSEAU.--(Vinciolo, _Edition_ 1623.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 16. + +MERLETTI A PIOMBINI.--(Parasole, 1616.)] + +The flower, or ornamental pattern, is either made together with the ground, +as in Valenciennes or Mechlin, or separately, and then either worked in or +sewn on (appliqué), as in Brussels. + +The open-work stitches introduced into the pattern are called _modes_, +_jours_; by our Devonshire workers, "fillings." + +All lace is terminated by two edges, the pearl, picot,[92] or couronne--a +row of little points at equal distances, and the footing or _engrêlure_--a +narrow lace, which serves to keep the stitches of the ground firm, and to +sew the lace to the garment upon which it is to be worn. + +{32}Lace is divided into point and pillow (or more correctly bobbin) lace. +The term pillow gives rise to misconceptions, as it is impossible to define +the distinction between the "cushion" used for some needle-laces and the +"pillow" of bobbin-lace. The first is made by the needle on a parchment +pattern, and termed needle-point, _point à l'aiguille_, _punto in aco_. + +The word is sometimes incorrectly applied to pillow-lace, as point de +Malines, point de Valenciennes, etc. + +Point also means a particular kind of stitch, as point de Paris,[93] point +de neige, point d'esprit,[94] point à la Reine, point à carreaux, à +chaînette, etc. + +"Cet homme est bien en points," was a term used to denote a person who wore +rich laces.[95] + +The mention of point de neige recalls the quarrel of Gros René and +Marinette, in the _Dépit Amoureux_[96] of Molière:-- + + "Ton beau galant de neige,[97] avec ta nonpareille, + Il n'aura plus l'honneur d'être sur mon oreille." + +Gros René evidently returns to his mistress his point de neige nightcap. + +The manner of making bobbin lace on a pillow[98] need hardly be described. +The "pillow"[99] is a round or oval board, stuffed so as to form a cushion, +and placed upon the knees of the workwoman. On this pillow a stiff piece of +parchment is fixed, with small holes pricked through to mark the pattern. +Through these holes pins are stuck into the cushion. The threads with which +the lace is formed are wound upon "bobbins," formerly bones,[100] now small +round pieces of wood, about the size of a pencil, having round their upper +ends a deep groove, so formed as to reduce the bobbin to a thin neck, on +which the thread is wound, a separate bobbin being used for each thread. + +PLATE VI. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN.--Modern reproduction at Burano of Point de Venise à +la feuille et la rose, of seventeenth century. + +Width, 8 in. Photo by the Burano School.] + +PLATE VII. + +[Illustration: Heraldic (carnival lace), was made in Italy. This appears to +be a specimen, though the archaic pattern points to a German origin. The +réseau is twisted and knotted. _Circ._ 1700. The Arms are those of a +Bishop. + +Photo by A. Dryden from private collection.] + +_To face page_ 32. + +{33}By the twisting and crossing of these threads the ground of the lace is +formed. The pattern or figure, technically called "gimp," is made by +interweaving a thread much thicker than that forming the groundwork, +according to the design pricked out on the parchment.[101] Such has been +the pillow and the method of using it, with but slight variation, for more +than three centuries. + +To avoid repetition, we propose giving a separate history of the +manufacture in each country; but in order to furnish some general notion of +the relative ages of lace, it may be as well to enumerate the kinds most in +use when Colbert, by his establishment of the Points de France, in 1665, +caused a general development of the lace manufacture throughout Europe. + +The laces known at that period were:-- + +1. Point.--Principally made at Venice, Genoa, Brussels, and in Spain. + +2. Bisette.--A narrow, coarse thread pillow lace of three qualities, made +in the environs of Paris[102] by the peasant women, principally for their +own use. Though proverbially of little value--"ce n'est que de la +bisette"[103]--it formed an article of traffic with the mercers and +lingères of the day. + +3. Gueuse.--A thread lace, which owed to its simplicity {34}the name it +bore. The ground was network, the flowers a loose, thick thread, worked in +on the pillow. Gueuse was formerly an article of extensive consumption in +France, but, from the beginning of the last century, little used save by +the lower classes. Many old persons may still remember the term, "beggars' +lace." + +4. Campane.[104]--A white, narrow, fine, thread pillow edging, used to sew +upon other laces, either to widen them, or to replace a worn-out picot or +pearl. + +Campane lace was also made of gold, and of coloured silks, for trimming +mantles, scarfs, etc. We find, in the Great Wardrobe Accounts of George I., +1714,[105] an entry of "Gold Campagne buttons." + +Evelyn, in his "Fop's Dictionary," 1690, gives, "Campane, a kind of narrow, +pricked lace;" and in the "Ladies' Dictionary," 1694, it is described as "a +kind of narrow lace, picked or scalloped."[106] + +In the Great Wardrobe Account of William III., 1688-9, we have "le poynt +campanie tæniæ." + +5. Mignonette.[107]--A light, fine, pillow lace, called blonde de +fil,[108] also point de tulle, from the ground resembling that {35}fabric. +It was made of Lille thread, bleached at Antwerp, of different widths, +never exceeding two to three inches. The localities where it was +manufactured were the environs of Paris, Lorraine, Auvergne, and +Normandy.[109] It was also fabricated at Lille, Arras, and in Switzerland. +This lace was article of considerable export, and at times in high favour, +from its lightness and clear ground, for headdresses[110] and other +trimmings. It frequently appears in the advertisements of the last century. +In the _Scottish Advertiser_, 1769, we find enumerated among the +stock-in-trade, "Mennuet and blonde lace." + +6. Point double, also called point de Paris and point des champs: point +double, because it required double the number of threads used in the single +ground; des champs, from its being made in the country. + +7. Valenciennes.--See Chapter XV. + +[Illustration: Fig. 17. + +OLD MECHLIN.] + +8. Mechlin.--All the laces of Flanders, with the exception of those of +Brussels and the point double, were known in commerce at this period under +the general name of Mechlin. (Fig. 17.) + +9. Gold lace. + +10. Guipure. + + +{36}GUIPURE. + +Guipure, says Savary, is a kind of lace or passement made of "cartisane" +and twisted silk. + +Cartisane is a little strip of thin parchment or vellum, which was covered +over with silk, gold, or silver thread, and formed the raised pattern. + +The silk twisted round a thick thread or cord was called guipure,[111] +hence the whole work derived its name.[112] + +Guipure was made either with the needle or on the pillow like other lace, +in various patterns, shades and colours, of different qualities and several +widths. + +The narrowest guipures were called "Têtes de More."[113] + +The less cartisane in the guipure, the more it was esteemed, for cartisane +was not durable, being only vellum covered over with silk. It was easily +affected by the damp, shrivelled, would not wash, and the pattern was +destroyed. Later, the parchment was replaced by a cotton material called +canetille. + +Savary says that most of the guipures were made in the environs of +Paris;[114] that formerly, he writes in 1720, great quantities were +consumed in the kingdom; but since the fashion had passed away, they were +mostly exported to Spain, Portugal, Germany, and the Spanish Indies, where +they were much worn.[115] + +Guipure was made of silk, gold and silver; from its costliness, therefore, +it was only worn by the rich. + +PLATE VIII. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN, VENETIAN, FLAT NEEDLE-POINT LACE. "PUNTO IN +ARIA."--The design is held together by plain "brides." Date, _circ._ 1645. +Width, 11-5/8 in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +PLATE IX. + +[Illustration: PORTION OF A BAND OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE REPRESENTING THE +STORY OF JUDITH AND HOLOFERNES.--The work is believed to be Italian, made +for a Portuguese, the inscription being in Portuguese. Date, _circ._ 1590. +Width, 8 in. The property of Mr. Arthur Blackborne. + +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 36._ + +{37}At the coronation of Henry II. the front of the high altar is described +as of crimson velvet, enriched with "cuipure d'or"; and the ornaments, +chasuble, and corporaliers of another altar as adorned with a "riche +broderie de cuipure."[116] + +On the occasion of Henry's entry into Paris, the king wore over his armour +a surcoat of cloth of silver ornamented with his ciphers and devices, and +trimmed with "guippures d'argent."[117] + +In the reign of Henry III. the casaques of the pages were covered with +guipures and passements, composed of as many colours as entered into the +armorial bearings of their masters; and these silk guipures, of varied +hues, added much to the brilliancy of their liveries.[118] + +Guipure seems to have been much worn by Mary Stuart. When the Queen was at +Lochleven, Sir Robert Melville is related to have delivered to her a pair +of white satin sleeves, edged with a double border of silver guipure; and, +in the inventory of her clothes taken at the Abbey of Lillebourg,[119] +1561-2, we find numerous velvet and satin gowns trimmed with "gumpeures" of +gold and silver.[120] + +It is singular that the word guipure is not to be found in our English +inventories or wardrobe accounts, a circumstance which leads us to infer, +though in opposition to higher authorities, that guipure was in England +termed "parchment lace"--a not unnatural conclusion, since we know it was +sometimes called "dentelle à cartisane,"[121] from the slips of parchment +of which it was partly composed. Though Queen Mary would use the French +term, it does not seem to have been adopted in England, whereas "parchment +lace" is of frequent occurrence. + +From the Privy Purse Expenses of the Princess Mary,[122] we find she gives +to Lady Calthorpe a pair of sleeves of "gold, {38}trimmed with parchment +lace," a favourite donation of hers, it would appear, by the anecdote of +Lady Jane Grey. + +"A great man's daughter," relates Strype[123] "(the Duke of Suffolk's +daughter Jane), receiving from Lady Mary, before she was Queen, goodly +apparel of tinsel, cloth of gold, and velvet, laid on with parchment lace +of gold, when she saw it, said, 'What shall I do with it?' Mary said, +'Gentlewoman, wear it.' 'Nay,' quoth she, 'that were a shame to follow my +Lady Mary against God's word, and leave my Lady Elizabeth, which followeth +God's word.'" + +In the list of the Protestant refugees in England, 1563 to 1571,[124] among +their trades, it is stated "some live by making matches of hempe stalks, +and parchment lace." + +Again, Sir Robert Bowes, "once ambassador to Scotland," in his inventory, +1553, has "One cassock of wrought velvet with p'chment lace of gold."[125] + +"Parchment lace[126] of watchett and syllver at 7s. 8d. the ounce," appears +also among the laces of Queen Elizabeth.[127] + +King Charles I. has his carpet bag trimmed with "broad parchment gold +lace,"[128] his satin nightcaps with gold and silver parchment laces,[129] +and even the bag and comb case "for his Majesty's barber" is decorated with +"silver purle and parchment lace."[130] + +Again, Charles II. ornaments the seats on both sides the throne with silver +parchment lace.[131] In many of the inventories circ. 1590, "sylke +parchment lace" is noted down, and "red" and "green parchment lace," again, +appear among the wares found "in y^e Shoppes."[132] + +But to return to the word guipure. + +In an inventory of the Church of the Oratoire, at Paris, of the seventeenth +century, are veils for the host: one, "de {39}taffetas blanc garny d'une +guipure"; the other, "de satin blanc à fleurs, avec une dentelle de +guipure."[133] + +These guipures will have also been of silk. When the term was first +transferred to the thread passements which are now called guipure, it is +difficult to say, for we can find no trace of it so applied. + +Be that as it may, the thread guipures are of old date; many of the +patterns bear the character of the rich ornamentation and capricious +interlacings of the Renaissance; others, again, are "pur Louis Quatorze" +(Fig. 18). The finest thread guipures were the produce of Flanders and +Italy. They are most varied in their style. In some the bold flowing +patterns are united by brides; in others by a coarse réseau, often +circular, and called "round ground." + +[Illustration: Fig. 18. + +GUIPURE.--(Louis XIV.)] + +In that class called by the lace-makers "tape guipure," the outline of the +flowers is formed by a pillow or handmade braid about the eighth of an inch +in width (Fig. 19). + +{40}The term guipure is now so extensively applied it is difficult to give +a limit to its meaning. We can only define it as lace where the flowers are +either joined by "brides," or large coarse stitches, or lace that has no +ground at all. The modern Honiton and Maltese are guipures, so is the +Venetian point. + +[Illustration: Fig. 19. + +TAPE GUIPURE, BOBBIN-MADE.--(Genoa.)] + +Most of these laces are enumerated in a _jeu d'esprit_, entitled "La +Révolte des Passemens," published at Paris in 1661.[134] + +{41}In consequence of a sumptuary edict against luxury in apparel, Mesdames +les Broderies-- + + "Les Poinctes, Dentelles, Passemens + Qui, par une vaine despence, + Ruinoient aujourd'huy la France"-- + +meet, and concert measures for their common safety. Point de Gênes, with +Point de Raguse, first address the company; next, Point de Venise, who +seems to look on Raguse with a jealous eye, exclaims-- + + "Encore pour vous, Poinct de Raguse, + Il est bon, crainte d'attentat, + D'en vouloir perger un estat. + Les gens aussy fins que vous estes + Ne sont bons que, comme vous faites, + Pour ruiner tous les estats. + Et vous, Aurillac ou Venise, + Si nous plions notre valise," + +what will be our fate? + +The other laces speak, in their turn, most despondently, till a "vieille +broderie d'or," consoling them, talks of the vanity of this world:--"Who +knows it better than I, who have dwelt in kings' houses?" One "grande +dentelle d'Angleterre" now proposes they should all retire to a convent. To +this the "Dentelles de Flandres" object; they would sooner be sewn at once +to the bottom of a petticoat. + +Mesdames les Broderies resign themselves to become "ameublement;" the more +devout of the party to appear as "devants d'autel;" those who feel too +young to renounce the world and its vanities will seek refuge in the +masquerade shops. + +"Dentelle noire d'Angleterre" lets herself out cheap to a fowler, as a net +to catch woodcocks, for which she felt "assez propre" in her present +predicament. + +The Points all resolve to retire to their own countries, save Aurillac, who +fears she may be turned into a strainer "pour passer les fromages +d'Auvergne," a smell insupportable to one who had revelled in civet and +orange-flower. + +All were starting-- + + "Chacun, dissimulant sa rage, + Doucement ploit son bagage, + Resolu d'obéir au sort," + +when + + "Une pauvre malheureuse, + Qu'on apelle, dit on, la Gueuse," + +{42}arrives, in a great rage, from a village in the environs of Paris. "She +is not of high birth, but has her feelings all the same. She will never +submit. She has no refuge--not even a place in the hospital. Let them +follow her advice and 'elle engageoit sa chaînette,' she will replace them +all in their former position." + +Next morn, the Points assemble. "Une grande Cravate[135] fanfaron" +exclaims:-- + + "Il nous faut venger cet affront, + Revoltons-nous, noble assemblée." + +A council of war ensues:-- + + "La dessus, le Poinct d'Alençon + Ayant bien appris sa leçon + Fit une fort belle harangue." + +Flanders now boasts how she had made two campaigns under Monsieur, as a +cravat; another had learned the art of war under Turenne; a third was torn +at the siege of Dunkirk. + + "Racontant des combats qu'ils ne virent jamais," + +one and all had figured at some siege or battle. + + "Qu'avons nous à redouter?" + +cries Dentelle d'Angleterre. No so, thinks Point de Gênes, "qui avoit le +corps un peu gros." + +They all swear-- + + "Foy de Passement, + Foy de Poincts et de Broderie, + De Guipure et d'Orfévrerie, + De Gueuse de toute façon," + +to declare open war, and to banish the Parliament. + +The Laces assemble at the fair of St. Germain, there to be reviewed by +General Luxe. + +The muster-roll is called over by Colonel Sotte Depense. Dentelles de +Moresse, Escadrons de Neige, Dentelles de Hâvre, Escrues, Soies noires, and +Points d'Espagne, etc., march forth in warlike array, to conquer or to die. +At the first approach of the artillery they all take to their heels, and +are condemned by a council of war--the Points to be made into tinder, for +the sole use of the King's Mousquetaires; the Laces to be converted into +paper; the Dentelles, {43}Escrues, Gueuses, Passemens, and Silk Lace to be +made into cordage and sent to the galleys; the Gold and Silver Laces, the +original authors of the sedition, to be "burned alive." + +Finally, through the intercession of Love-- + + "Le petit dieu plein de finesse," + +they are again pardoned and restored to court favour. + +The poem is curious, as giving an account of the various kinds of lace, and +as a specimen of the taste of the time, but the "ton précieux" of the Hôtel +Rambouillet pervades throughout. + +The lace trade, up to this period, was entirely in the hands of pedlars, +who carried their wares to the principal towns and large country-houses. + +"One Madame La Boord," says Evelyn, "a French peddling-woman, served Queen +Katherine with petticoats, fans, and foreign laces." These hawkers attended +the great fairs[136] of Europe, where all purchases were made.[137] + +Even as early as King Henry III.[138] we have a notice "to purchase robes +at the fair of St. Ives, for the use of Richard our brother"; and in the +dramas of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, we find constant +allusion to these provincial markets:--[139] + + "Seven + Pedlars' shops, nay all Sturbridge fair,[140] will + Scarce furnish her."[141] + +{44}The custom of carrying lace from house to house still exists in +Belgium, where at Spa and other places, colporteurs,[142] with packs +similar to those borne by our pedlars, bring round to the visitors laces of +great value, which they sell at cheaper rates than those exposed in the +shops.[143] + +Many travellers, too, through the counties of Buckingham and Bedford, or +the more southern regions of Devon, will still call to mind the inevitable +lace box handed round for purchase by the waiter at the conclusion of the +inn dinner; as well as the girls who, awaiting the arrival of each +travelling carriage or postchaise, climbed up to the windows of the +vehicle, rarely allowing the occupants to go their way until they had +purchased some article of the wares so pertinaciously offered to their +inspection. + +In Paris, the lace trade was the exclusive privilege of the +passementiers.[144] + +PLATE X. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. POINT DE VENISE À LA ROSE. Modern reproduction at +Burano of seventeenth century lace. Width, 17 in. + +Photo by the Burano School.] + +_To face page 44._ + + + + +{45}CHAPTER IV. + +ITALY. + + "It grazed on my shoulder, takes me away six parts of an Italian cut-work + band I wore, cost me three pounds in the Exchange but three days + before."--Ben Jonson--_Every Man Out of His Humour_,1599. + + "Ruffles well wrought and fine falling bands of Italian cut-work."--_Fair + Maid of the Exchange_, 1627. + + +The Italians claim the invention of point, or needle-made lace. + +It has been suggested they derived the art of fine needlework from the +Greeks who took refuge in Italy from the troubles of the Lower Empire; and +what further confirms its Byzantine origin is, that those very places which +kept up the closest intercourse with the Greek Empire are the cities where +point lace was earliest made and flourished to the greatest extent.[145] + +A modern Italian author,[146] on the other hand, asserts that the Italians +learned embroidery from the Saracens of Sicily, as the Spaniards acquired +the art from the Moors of Granada or Seville, and brings forward, as proof +of his theory, that the word to embroider, both in Italian and +Spanish,[147] is derived from the Arabic, and no similar word exists in any +other European language.[148] This theory may apply to embroidery, but +certainly not to lace; for with the exception of the Turkish crochet +"oyah," and some darned netting and drawn-work which occur in Persian and +Chinese tissues, there is nothing approaching to lace to be found on any +article of oriental manufacture. + +{46}We proceed to show that evidences of the lace-fabric appear in Italy as +early as the fifteenth century. + +In 1476, the Venetian Senate decreed that no Punto in Aria whatever, +executed either in flax with a needle, or in silver or gold thread, should +be used on the curtains or bed-linen in the city or provinces. Among the +State archives of the ducal family of Este, which reigned in Ferrara for so +many centuries, Count Gandini found mentioned in a Register of the +Wardrobe, dated 1476 (A. C. 87), an order given for a felt hat "alla +Borgognona," trimmed with a silver and silk gimp made with bobbins. Besides +this, in the same document is noted (A. C. 96) a velvet seat with a canopy +trimmed at the sides with a frill of gold and silver, made in squares, with +bobbins. + +The Cavaliere Antonio Merli, in his interesting pamphlet on Italian +lace,[149] mentions an account preserved in the Municipal Archives of +Ferrara, dated 1469, as probably referring to lace;[150] but he more +especially brings forward a document of the Sforza family, dated[151] 1493, +in which the word _trina_ (under its ancient form "tarnete") constantly +occurs,[152] together with bone and bobbin lace. + +PLATE XI + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. POINT PLAT DE VENISE. NEEDLE-POINT.--Seventeenth +century. Length, 25 in.; width, 16 in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 46._ + +{47}Again, the Florentine poet, Firenzuola, who wrote from 1520-30, +composed an elegy upon a collar of raised point, made by the hand of his +mistress. + +Cavaliere Merli cites, as the earliest known painting in which lace occurs, +a majolica disc, after the style of the Della Robbia family, in which, +surrounded by a wreath of fruit, is represented the half figure of a lady, +dressed in a rich brocade, with a collar of white lace. The costume is of +the fifteenth century; but as Luca della Robbia's descendants worked to a +later period, the precise date of the work cannot be fixed. + +Evidences of white lace, or passement, are said to appear in the pictures +of Carpaccio, in the gallery at Venice, and in another by the Gentile +Bellini, where the dress of one of the ladies is trimmed round the neck +with a white lace.[153] The date of this last painting is 1500. + +Lace was made throughout Italy mostly by the nuns,[154] and expressly for +the service of the Church. Venice was celebrated for her points, while +Genoa produced almost exclusively pillow-lace. + +The laces best known in the commercial world in the earlier periods were +those of Venice, Milan, and Genoa. + + +VENICE. + + Mrs. Termagant: "I'll spoil your point de Venise for you."--Shadwell, + _Squire of Alsatia_. + + "Elle n'avoit point de mouchoir, + Mais un riche et tres beau peignoir + Des plus chers de point de Venise + En negligeance elle avoit mise." + _Les Combats_, etc., 1663. + +The Venetian galleys, at an early period, bore to England "apes, sweet +wines," and other articles of luxury. They brought also the gold-work of +"Luk," Florence, "Jeane," {48}and Venice.[155] In our early parliamentary +records are many statutes on the subject. The Italians were in the habit of +giving short lengths, gold thread of bad quality, and were guilty of sundry +other peccadilloes, which greatly excited the wrath of the nation. The +balance was not in England's favour. + + "Thei bare the gold out of this land + And sowkethe the thrifte out of our hande + As the waspe sowkethe the honey of the be." + +It was these cheating Venetians who first brought over their points into +England. + +In Venice itself, extravagance in lace was restrained in 1542, by a +sumptuary law, forbidding the metal laces embroidered in silk to be wider +than _due dita_ (_i.e._, about two inches). This interference is highly +Venetian, and was intended to protect the nobles and citizens from injuring +themselves and setting a bad example. + +At the coronation of Richard III., "fringes of Venice," and "mantil laces +of white silk and Venys gold" appear, and twenty years later Elizabeth of +York disburses sundry sums for "gold of Venice" and "other +necessaries."[156] The queen's accounts are less explicit than those of her +royal predecessor; and though a lace is ordered for the king's mantle of +the Garter, for which she paid sixteen shillings, the article may have been +of home manufacture. + +From this time downwards appear occasional mention of partlets,[157] knit +caul fashion, of Venice gold, and of white thread,[158] of billament lace +of Venice, in silver and black silk.[159] It is not, however, till the +reign of Elizabeth[160] that Italian cut-works and Venice lace came into +general use. These points found their way into France about the same +period, though we hear little of them. + +PLATE XII + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU.--The upper ones are of +yellow silk; a chalice veil, with dove and olive branch, and possibly an +altar border. Probably late seventeenth century. The lower is thread, early +eighteenth century. Width, 2 in. In private collections. + +Photos by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 48._ + +{49}Of "point couppé" there is mention, and enough, in handkerchiefs for +Madame Gabrielle, shirts for the king, and fraizes for La Reine Margot; but +whether they be of Venice or worked in France, we are unenlightened. The +works of Vinciolo[161] and others had already been widely circulated, and +laces and point couppé now formed the favourite occupation of the ladies. +Perhaps one of the earliest records of point de Venise will be found in a +ridiculous historiette of Tallemant des Réaux, who, gossiping of a certain +Madame de Puissieux,[162] writes: "On m'assuroit qu'elle mangeoit du point +coupé. Alors les points de Gênes, de Raguse, ni d'Aurillac ni de Venise +n'étoient point connus et on dit qu'au sermon elle mangea tout le derrière +du collet d'un homme qui etoit assis devant elle." On what strange events +hang the connecting threads of history! + +By 1626 foreign "dentelles et passements au fuseau" were declared +contraband. France paying large sums of money to other countries for lace, +the Government, by this ordinance, determined to remedy the evil. It was at +this period that the points of Venice were in full use.[163] + + "To know the age and pedigrees + Of points of Flanders and Venise"[164] + +would, in the latter case, have been more difficult, had it not been for +the pattern-books so often quoted. + +The earliest points, as we already know, soon passed from the stiff +formality of the "Gotico" into the flowing lines of the Renaissance, and +into that fine patternless guipure which is, _par excellence_, called Point +de Venise.[165] + +In the islands of the Lagune there still lingers a tale of the first origin +of this most charming production. + +A sailor youth, bound for the Southern Seas, brought home to his betrothed +a bunch of that pretty coralline (Fig. 20) known to the unlearned as the +mermaid's lace.[166] The girl, a worker in points, struck by the graceful +nature of the seaweed, with its small white knots united, as it were, by +{50}a "bride," imitated it with her needle, and after several unsuccessful +trials produced that delicate guipure which before long became the taste of +all Europe. + +It would be difficult to enumerate the various kinds of lace produced by +Venice in her palmy days. + +The Cavaliere Merli has endeavoured to classify them according to the names +in the pattern-books with which Venice supplied the world, as well as with +her points. Out of some sixty of these works, whose names have been +collected, above one-third were published in Venice.[167] + +[Illustration: Fig. 20. + +MERMAID'S LACE.] + +1. Punto a reticella.[168]--Made either by drawing the threads of the +cloth, as in the samplar already given (Fig. 5), or by working the lace on +a parchment pattern in buttonhole stitch (punto smerlo). (Fig. 21.) This +point is identical with what is commonly called "Greek" lace. + +Under this head comes punto reale (the opposite of reticella), where the +linen ground is left and the design cut out.[169] Punto di cartella or +cordella (card-work) is similar in effect to reticella, but the +button-holing is done entirely over a foundation made by sewing coarse +thread and bits of parchment on to the design and covering them with +button-hole stitch. + +[Illustration: Fig. 21. + +Reticella.] + +_To face page 50._ + +{51}2. Punto tagliato.[170]--Cut-work, already described. + +3. Punto di Venezia. + +4. Punto in aria.[171]--Worked on a parchment pattern, the flowers +connected by brides: in modern parlance, Guipure. + +5. Punto tagliato a fogliami.[172]--The richest and most complicated of all +points, executed like the former, only with this difference, that all the +outlines are in relief, formed by means of cottons placed inside to raise +them. Sometimes they are in double and triple relief; an infinity of +beautiful stitches are introduced into the flowers, which are surrounded by +a pearl of geometric regularity, the pearls sometimes in scallops or +"campané," as the French term it.[173] This is our Rose (raised) Venice +point, the Gros Point de Venise, the Punto a relievo, so highly prized and +so extensively used for albs, collerettes, berthes, and costly decoration. +We give an example (Fig. 23) from a collar, preserved in the Musée de +Cluny, once the property of a Venetian nobleman, worn only on state +occasions. + +Two elaborate specimens were in the possession of Mr. Webb; one is a long +narrow piece fringed at both ends, which may have served as a maniple (Fig. +26); the other, a "pale"[174] for the communion, he has given to the +Victoria and Albert Museum. + +These two last are made of silk of the natural cream colour. Both silk and +thread unbleached appear to have been greatly in favour. At Paris much lace +of this colour has been disposed of by its owners since the revolutions in +Italy.[175] + +Other varieties of so-called rose point are punto neve (point de neige), +with its ground of starred threads resembling snowflakes, and the coral +point, a small irregular pattern supposed to have been copied from coral. + +{52}6. Punto a gropo, or gropari.[176]--Groppo, or gruppo, signifies a +knot, or tie, and in this lace the threads are knotted together, like the +fringes of the Genoese macramè.[177] After this manner is made the trimming +to the linen scarfs or cloths which the Roman peasants wear folded square +over the head, and hanging down the back. (Fig. 22.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 22. + +PUNTO A GROPO (Knotted Point).] + +7. Punto a maglia quadra.--Lacis; square netting,[178] the modano of the +Tuscans. (Fig. 24.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 23. + +GROS POINT DE VENISE.--From the Collar of a Venetian Nobleman. Musée de +Cluny, Paris. 16th century. + +N.B.--This drawing makes the work and design appear heavier than it is in +reality. + +_To face page 52._] + +{53}This Tuscan sort was not generally embroidered; the pattern consists in +knitting the meshes together in different shapes. It was much used for +hangings of beds, and those curtains placed across the windows, called +_stores_ by the French, and by the Italians, _stuora_.[179] + +8. Burato.--The word means a stiff cloth or canvas (_toille clere_ of +Taglienti, 1527), on which the pattern is embroidered, reducing it to a +kind of rude lace. One of the pattern-books[180] is devoted exclusively to +the teaching of this point. + +[Illustration: Fig. 24. + +PUNTO A MAGLIA (Lacis)] + +The needle-made laces fabricated at Burano will be noticed later. + +9. Punto tirato--Drawn work.[181] Fig. 25 is a lace ground {54}made by +drawing the threads of muslin (_fili tirati_).[182] The present specimen is +simple in design, but some are very complicated and beautiful. + +The ordinance of Colbert must have inflicted a serious injury on the Venice +lace trade, which, says Daru, "occupoit la population de la capitale." In +_Britannia Languens_, a discourse upon trade, London, 1680,[183] it is said +that the laces commonly called Points de Venise now come mostly from +France, and amount to a vast sum yearly. + +Savary, speaking of the thread laces termed Venice point in the early part +of the eighteenth century,[184] says, "The French no longer purchase these +articles, having established themselves manufactures which rival those of +the Adriatic." + +[Illustration: Fig. 25. + +PUNTO TIRATO (Drawn Lace).] + +Still the greater number of travellers[185] make a provision of points in +their passage through Venice, and are usually cheated, writes a traveller +about this period.[186] He recommends his friend, Mr. Claude Somebody, a +French dealer, who probably paid him in ruffles for the advertisement. + +[Illustration: Fig. 26. + +POINT DE VENISE À BRIDES PICOTÉES.--Early 18th century. + +_To Face page 54._] + +{55}Our porte-bouquets and lace-trimmed nosegays are nothing new. On the +occasion of the annual visit of the Doge to the Convent delle Vergini, the +lady abbess with the novices received him in the parlour, and presented him +with a nosegay of flowers placed in a handle of gold, and trimmed round +with the finest lace that Venice could produce.[187] + +[Illustration: Fig. 27. + +VENICE POINT.] + +Fynes Moryson[188] is the earliest known traveller who alludes to the +products of Venice. "Venetian ladies in general," he says, "wear a standing +collar and ruffs close up to the chin; the unmarried tie their hair with +gold and silver lace." Evidently the collars styled "bavari," for which +Vecellio[189] gives patterns "all' usanza Veneziana," were {56}not yet in +general vogue.[190] The Medici collars were supported by fine metal bars +called "verghetti," which were so much in demand that the inhabitants of a +whole quarter of Venice were engaged in their production, and the name +which it still bears was given to it in consequence. + +[Illustration: Fig. 28. + +GROS POINT DE VENISE.--(First half of 17th century.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 29. + +POINT DE VENISE.--End of 17th century.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 30. + +POINT PLAT DE VENISE.--Middle of 17th century. + +_To face page 56._] + +{57}Fifty years later, Evelyn speaks of the veils of glittering taffetas, +worn by the Venetian ladies, to the corners of which hang broad but curious +tassels of point laces. + +According to Zedler, an author who wrote about lace in 1742, the price of +Venice point in high relief varied from one to nine ducats per Italian ell. + +The Venetians, unlike the Spaniards, thought much of their fine linen and +the decorations pertaining to it. "La camicia preme assai più del +giubbone," ran the proverb--"La chemise avant le pourpoint." Young nobles +were not allowed to wear lace on their garments until they put on the robe, +which they usually did at the age of five-and-twenty, on being admitted to +the council.[191] + +Towards 1770, the Venice ladies themselves commenced to forsake the fabrics +of their native islands; for on the marriage of the Doge's son, in that +year, we read that, although the altar was decorated with the richest +Venice point, the bride and her ladies wore their sleeves covered up to the +shoulders with falls of the finest Brussels lace, and a tucker of the same +material.[192] + +During the carnival, however, the people, both male and female, wore a +camail, or hood of black lace, covering the chin up to the mouth, called a +"bauta."[193] It was one of these old black lace hoods that Walpole +describes Lady Mary Wortley Montagu as wearing at Florence, 1762, in place +of a cap. + +_Point de Venise à réseau_ is chiefly distinguished by the conventional +treatment of the flowers and ornament, and a general flat look of the work. +The outlining thread or cordonnet is stitched to the edge of the pattern +and worked in flatly. A minute border to the cordonnet of small meshes +intervenes between it and the réseau, which is of square {58}meshes and +always very fine. Whether the lace was derived from the Alençon, and was +the result of an attempt to win back the custom the French manufacturers +were taking away from Venice, or whether it was Alençon that imitated the +Venetian réseau, is a moot point, but certain it is that the Venetian +product surpassed in fineness both Alençon and Brussels. Its very delicacy +has been its destruction, so that very few specimens of this lace survive. +Plate XII. + +_Mezzo Punto_, or mixed Venetian guipure, was a mixed point lace, of which +the scrolls and flowers were outlined in pillow-lace, or by a tape, and the +designs filled in with needle fillings, and connected by pearled brides on +a coarse needle-made réseau. This variety of lace was sometimes made of +silk. In point de Venise, flat or raised, the pattern is always connected +by an irregular network of pearled brides. Real brides connecting the +flowers here and there hardly ever occur; and the number of picots attached +to one single branch of the bride network never exceeds two. The +elaborately ornamental detached brides and a multiplicity of picots are +characteristic of "Spanish point" and early point de France. + +The old Burano laces were a coarser outcome of the point de Venise à +réseau, and alone of all Venetian needle laces survived the dark days of +the close of the eighteenth century. Some fine specimens of these were +shown by M. Dupont d'Auberville in the International Exhibition, and Marini +quotes from a document of the seventeenth century, in which, speaking of +merletti, it is said that "these laces, styled 'punti in aria,' or di +Burano, because the greater part of them were made in the country so +called, are considered by Lannoni as more noble and of greater whiteness, +and for excellency of design and perfect workmanship equal to those of +Flanders, and in solidity superior." + +A new departure has been taken in modern times, in the making of hand-made +laces at the island of Burano, near Venice, where a large number of girls +were employed in the eighteenth century, both in the town and the convents, +in making a point closely resembling that of Alençon. Here the art lingered +on as late as 1845, when a superannuated nun of ninety, with whom Mrs. +Dennistoun, of Dennistoun, conversed on the subject, said how in her +younger days she and her companions employed their time in the fabric of +"punto di Burano";[194] how it was ordered long beforehand for great +marriages, and even then cost very dear. She showed specimens still tacked +on paper: the ground is made right across the thread of the lace. + +[Illustration: Fig. 31. + +POINT DE VENISE À RÉSEAU.--Early 18th century. N.B.--Mrs. Palliser +incorrectly described this as Brussels in her first Editions. + +_To face page 58._] + +{59}Burano point had not the extreme delicacy of the Venetian point à +réseau or of Alençon, and the late Alençon patterns were copied. Though +needle-made, it was worked on a pillow arranged with a cylinder for +convenience of working. The unevenness of the thread gives the réseau a +cloudy appearance, and the cordonnet is, like the Brussels needlepoint, of +thread stitched round the outline instead of the Alençon button-hole stitch +over horse-hair. The mesh of the réseau is square, as in Alençon. + +Fig. 32 is copied from a specimen purchased at Burano by the Cav. Merli, of +the maker, an old woman known by the name of Cencia Scarpariola. In 1866, +the industry was extinct, and the "Contrada del Pizzo," once the +headquarters of the lace-makers, was a mystery to the natives, who could no +longer account for the denomination. In the church is preserved a splendid +series of altar-cloths of so-called Burano point in relief, and a fine +_storiato_ piece, representing the mysteries of the Passion. "Venice point +is now no more," writes Mrs. Palliser; "the sole relic of this far-famed +trade is the coarse torchon lace, of the old lozenge pattern, offered by +the peasant women of Palestrina to strangers on their arrival at hotels," +the same fabric mentioned by Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, when she speaks of +"peddling women that come on pretext of selling pennyworths of lace." + +The formation of the school recently established there,[195] and the +revival of the art of lace-making in Burano, arose out of the great +distress which in 1872 overtook the island. The extraordinary severity of +the winter that year rendered it impossible for the poor fishermen, who +form the population {60}of the island, to follow their calling. So great +was the distress at that time, while the lagoons were frozen, that the +fishermen and their families were reduced to a state bordering on +starvation, and for their relief contributions were made by all classes in +Italy, including the Pope and the King. This charitable movement resulted +in the collection of a fund of money, which sufficed to relieve the +immediate distress and leave a surplus for the establishment of a local +industry to increase the resources of the Burano population. + +[Illustration: Fig. 32. + +BURANO POINT.--(Late 18th century.)] + +PLATE XIII. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. MODERN POINT DE BURANO. + +Marriage veil of Queen Elena of Italy. Much reduced. Length about 7 ft.; +width seen about 4 ft. 6 in. + +Photo by the Burano School.] + +_To face page 60._ + +{61}Unfortunately, the industry at first fixed upon, namely, that of making +fishermen's nets, gave no practical result, the fishermen being too poor to +buy the nets. It was then that a suggestion was made by Signor Fambri that +an effort should be made to revive the ancient industry of lace-making, and +Princess Chigi-Giovanelli and the Countess Andriana Marcello were asked to +interest themselves in, and to patronise, a school for this purpose. + +To this application these ladies yielded a ready assent, and at a late +period Queen Margherita graciously consented to become the president of the +institution. + +When Countess Marcello, who from that time was the life and soul of the +undertaking, began to occupy herself with the foundation of the school, she +found an old woman in Burano, Cencia Scarpariola, who preserved the +traditions of the art of lace-making, and continued, despite her seventy +years and upwards, to make Burano point. As she, however, did not +understand the method of teaching her art, the assistance was secured of +Madame Anne Bellorio d'Este, a very skilful and intelligent woman, for some +time mistress of the girls' school at Burano, who in her leisure hours took +lessons in lace-making of Cencia Scarpariola, and imparted her knowledge to +eight pupils, who, in consideration of a small payment, were induced to +learn to make lace. + +As the number of scholars increased, Madame Bellorio occupied herself +exclusively in teaching lace-making, which she has continued to do with +surprising results. Under Madame Bellorio's tuition, the school, which in +1872 consisted of eight pupils (who received a daily payment to induce them +to attend), now, in 1897, numbers four hundred workers, paid, not by the +day, but according to the work each performs. + +In Burano everything is extremely cheap, and a humble abode capable of +accommodating a small family may be had for from six hundred to one +thousand Italian lire. It is not a rare occurrence to find a young +lace-worker saving her earnings in order to purchase her little dwelling, +that she may take it as a dower to her husband. Nearly all the young men of +Burano seek their wives from among the lace-women. The school's diploma of +honour speaks of the economical importance of the lace-work "to the poor +place of Burano," and "the benefit which the gentle industry {62}brings to +the inhabitants of the interesting island, whose welfare, having passed +through a series of undeserved trials, is due exclusively to the revival of +it practised on a large scale." + +The lace made in the school is no longer confined, as in the origin it was, +to Burano point, but laces of almost any design or model are now +undertaken--point de Burano, point d'Alençon, point de Bruxelles, point +d'Angleterre, point d'Argentan, rose point de Venise, Italian punto in +aria, and Italian punto tagliato a fogliami. The school has been enriched +by gifts of antique lace, and Queen Margherita gave the school permission +to copy two magnificent specimens of Ecclesiastical lace--now Crown +property--that had formerly belonged to Cardinal de Retz, and Pope Clement +VII. (Rezzonico). + +In order the better to carry out the character of the different laces, the +more apt and intelligent of these pupils, whose task it is to trace out in +thread the design to be worked, have the advantage of being taught by +professional artists. + +The four hundred lace-workers now employed are divided into seven sections, +in order that each may continue in the same sort of work and, as much as +possible, in the same class of lace. By this method each one becomes +thoroughly proficient in her own special department, executes it with +greater facility, and consequently earns more, and the school gets its work +done better and cheaper. + +While Countess Marcello was working to re-establish the making of +needle-point at Burano, Cav. Michelangelo Jesurum was re-organising the +bobbin-lace industry at Pellestrina, a small fishing-town on the Lido. In +1864 the lace of Pellestrina might have been described as an inextricable +labyrinth of threads with vaguely distinguishable lines and occasional +holes. The lace was so imperfect, and made in such small quantities, that +two women who went about selling it in Venice and the country round +sufficed to dispose of all that was made. The pricked papers were prepared +by an old peasant woman, who made them more and more imperfect at each +repetition, losing gradually all trace of the original design. Cav. +Jesurum, by a careful copying of the old designs, obtained valuable +results, and founded a lace-school and a flourishing industry. About 1875 +polychrome lace was introduced in Venice--bobbin-lace worked in colours +with designs of flowers, fruits, leaves, arabesques, and animals, with the +various tints and shading required. The women who make bobbin-lace now in +Venice and in the islands amount to 3,000, but it is difficult to give an +exact estimate of their numbers, as many of them are bone-workers, wives +and daughters of fishermen, who combine the lace-making with their +household duties, with mending of nets, and with field-work. + +PLATE XIV. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN.--Modern reproduction at Burano of the flounce now +belonging to the Crown of Italy, formerly to Pope Clement XIII., Rezzonico, +1693-1769. Height, 24 in. + +Photo by the Burano School.] + +_To face page 62._ + +{63}MILAN ("MILANO LA GRANDE"). + + "Margaret: I saw the Duchess of Milan's gown that they praise so. + + "Hero: O that exceeds, they say. + + "Margaret: By my troth, it's but a night-gown in respect of yours; cloth + o' gold and cuts, and laced with silver."--_Much Ado about Nothing_, iv. + 1. + +One of the earliest records of Italian lace belongs to Milan, and occurs in +an instrument of partition between the sisters Angela and Ippolita Sforza +Visconti, dated 1493 (see VENICE). + +This document is of the highest interest as giving the inventory of an +Italian wardrobe of the fifteenth century. In it, amidst a number of +curious entries, are veils of good network, with cambric pillow-cases, +linen sheets, mosquito curtains and various articles, worked _a reticella_ +and _a groppi_, with the needle, bobbins, bones, and other different +ways[196] mentioned in the pattern-books of the following century. + +Among other items we find, "Half of a bundle containing patterns for +ladies' work."[197] + +Though the fabric of these fine points dates back for so many centuries, +there is little notice of them elsewhere. {64}Henry VIII. is mentioned as +wearing one short pair of hose of purple silk of Venice gold, woven like a +caul, edged with a passamaine lace of purple silk and gold, worked at +Milan.[198] + +In a wardrobe account of Lord Hay, gentleman of his Majesty's robes, +1606,[199] is noted down to James I., "One suit with cannons thereunto of +silver lace, shadowed with silk Milan lace." + +Again, among the articles furnished against the "Queen's lying down," 1606, +in the bills of the Lady Audrye Walsingham,[200] is an entry of "Lace, +Milan fashion, for child's waistcoat." + +A French edict, dated March, 1613, against superfluity in dress, +prohibiting the wearing of gold and silver embroidery, specially forbids +the use of all "passement de Milan, ou façon de Milan" under a penalty of +one thousand livres.[201] The expression "à point de Milan" occurs in the +statutes of the passementiers of Paris.[202] + +"Les galons, passements et broderies, en or et en argent de Milan," says +Savary,[203] were once celebrated. + +Lalande, who writes some years later, adds, the laces formerly were an +object of commerce to the city, now they only fabricate those of an +inferior quality.[204] + +Much was consumed by the Lombard peasants, the better sorts serving for +ruffles of moderate price.[205] So opulent are the citizens, says a writer +of the same epoch, that the lowest mechanics, blacksmiths and shoemakers, +appear in gold stuff coats with ruffles of the finest point.[206] + +And when, in 1767, the Auvergne lace-makers petition for an exemption from +the export duty on their fabrics, they state as a ground that the duty +prevents them from competing abroad, especially at Cadiz, with the +lace-makers of Piedmont, the Milanais, and Imperial Flanders. Milan must, +therefore, have made lace extensively to a late period. + +PLATE XV. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. MILANESE BOBBIN-MADE.--Late seventeenth century. +Width, 12 in. + +Photo by A. Dryden from private collection.] + +_To face page 64._ + +{65}Fig. 33 is a specimen of what has been termed old Milan point, from the +convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, in that city. It is more often known +as Greek lace. + +[Illustration: Fig. 33. + +RETICELLA FROM MILAN.] + +The so-called punti di Milano--points de Milan--were all bobbin-laces, +which originated in Milan, and, though imitated by Genoa and Naples, +remained unapproached in design and workmanship. After first making +passements, Milan imitated the Venetian points, "a fogliami," in which the +pattern has the appearance of woven linen, with à jours occasionally +introduced to lighten portions of it. The design was at first connected +with bars, but later, meshes (in the seventeenth century large meshes, and, +still later, smaller {66}meshes) filled the ground. This réseau varies, but +most frequently it has four plaited sides to a mesh, as in Valenciennes. + +Like other Italian laces, Milanese lace frequently has coats-of-arms or +family badges woven in it, such as the Doge's horn, the baldachino (a +special distinction accorded to Roman princes), the dogs of the Carrara +family, and so on, to commemorate a marriage or some other important event +in the family. This sort of lace was known as Carnival lace when made of +Venetian point. + +Milan lace is now represented by Cantu, near Lake Como, where the making of +white and black pillow-lace gives employment to many thousands of women. +The torchon lace of the country is original, and in much request with the +peasantry. + +In the underground chapel of San Carlo Borromeo, in Milan Cathedral, are +preserved twenty-six "camicie," trimmed with flounces of the richest point, +all more or less splendid, and worked in the convents of the city, but many +of the contents of this sumptuous wardrobe have rotted away from the +effects of the damp atmosphere. + + +FLORENCE. + +Of Florence and its products we know but little, though the Elegy of Agnolo +Firenzuola proves that ladies made raised point at an early period.[207] +His expression "scolpì," carved, sculptured in basso rilievo, leaves no +doubt upon the matter. + +PLATE XVI. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN, VENETIAN. NEEDLE-MADE.--Very raised and padded. +First half of eighteenth century. Width, 3¼ in.] + +PLATE XVII. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN, MILANESE. BOBBIN-MADE.--Early eighteenth century. +Width, 5¾ in. + +Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] + +_To face page 63_ + + "This collar was sculptured by my lady {67} + In bas reliefs such as Arachne + And she who conquered her could ne'er excel. + Look on that lovely foliage, like an Acanthus, + Which o'er a wall its graceful branches trails. + Look on those lovely flowers of purest white, + Which, near the pods that open, hang in harmony. + That little cord which binds each one about, + How it projects! proving that she who wrought it + Is very mistress of this art. + How well distributed are all these points! + See the equality of all those little buds + Which rise like many fair proportioned hills, + One like the other.... + This hand-made lace, this open-work, + Is all produced by her, this herring-bone, + Which in the midst holds down a little cord, + Was also made by her; all wrought by her." + +Henry VIII. granted to two Florentines the privilege of importing for three +years' time all "manner of fringys and passements wrought with gold and +silver or otherwise,"[208] an account of which will be found in the notice +of that monarch's reign. + +Beyond this, and the statute already mentioned, passed at the "Sute of the +Browderers" on account of the "deceyptful waight of the gold of Luk, +Florence, Jeane, and Venice,"[209] there is no allusion to the lace of +Florence in our English records. + +In France, as early as 1545, the sister of Francis I. purchases "soixante +aulnes fine dantelle de Florence"[210] for her own use, and some years +afterwards, 1582, the Queen of Navarre pays 17 écus 30 sols for 10 aulnes +et demye of the same passement "faict à l'esguille à haulte dantelle pour +mettre à des fraizes."[211] On the marriage of Elizabeth de France with +Philip II. in 1559, purchases were made of "passements et de bisette, en +fil blanc de Florence." + +Seeing the early date of these French accounts, it may be inferred that +Catherine de Médicis first introduced, on her arrival as a bride, the +Italian points of her own native city.[212] + +In Florence, in the fifteenth century, Savonarola, in his sermons +(1484-1491), reproached the nuns with "devoting their time to the vain +fabrication of gold laces with which to adorn the houses and persons of the +rich." + +Ray mentions that people of quality sent their daughters {68}at eight years +old to the Florentine nunneries to be instructed in all manner of women's +work. + +Lace was also fabricated at Sienna, but it appears to have been the _lavoro +di maglia_ or lacis, called by the Tuscans _modano ricamato_--embroidered +network. + +Early in the last century two Genoese nuns, of the Convent Sta. Maria degli +Angeli in Sienna, executed pillow laces and gold and silver embroidery of +such surpassing beauty, that they are still carefully preserved and +publicly exhibited on fête-days. One Francesca Bulgarini also instructed +the schools in the making of lace of every kind, especially the Venetian +reticella.[213] + + +THE ABRUZZI. + +In the Abruzzi, and also the Province of the Marche, coarse laces are made. +These are worked without any drawing, the rude design being made by +skipping the pin-holes on a geometrically perforated card. The pattern is +surrounded by a heavy thread, and composed of a close stitch worked between +the meshes of a coarse net ground. This lace somewhat resembles Dalecarlian +lace. In the eighteenth century fine pillow lace was also made in these +provinces. The celebrated industry of Offida in the Marche has sunk into +artistic degradation. + + +ROMAGNA. + +Lace was made in many parts of Romagna. Besides the knotted lace already +alluded to,[214] which is still made and worn by the peasants, the peasant +women wore on their collerettes much lace of that large-flowered pattern +and fancy ground, found alike in Flanders and on the headdresses of the +Neapolitan and Calabrian peasants. + +Specimens of the lace of the province of Urbino resemble in pattern and +texture the fine close lace on the collar of Christian IV., figured in our +notice of Denmark. The workmanship is of great beauty. + +Reticella is made at Bologna, and was revived in January, 1900, by the +Aemilia-Ars Co-operative Society. The designs are for the most part taken +from old pattern-books, such as Parasole. + +{69}Fig. 34 represents a fragment of a piece of lace of great interest, +communicated by the Countess Gigliucci. It is worked with the needle upon +muslin, and only a few inches of the lace are finished. This incompleteness +makes it the more valuable, as it enables us to trace the manner of its +execution, all the threads being left hanging to its several parts. The +Countess states that she found the work at a villa belonging to Count +Gigliucci, near Fermo on the Adriatic, and it is supposed to have been +executed by the Count's great-grandmother above 160 years ago--an exquisite +specimen of "the needle's excellency." + +[Illustration: Fig. 34. + +UNFINISHED DRAWN-WORK.] + +Though the riches of our Lady of Loreto fill a volume in themselves,[215] +and her image was fresh clad every day of the year, the account of her +jewels and plate so overpower any mention of her laces, which were +doubtless in accordance with {70}the rest of the wardrobe, that there is +nothing to tell on the subject. + +The laces of the Vatican and the holy Conclave, mostly presents from +crowned heads, are magnificent beyond all description. They are, however, +constantly in the market, sold at the death of a Cardinal by his heirs, and +often repurchased by some newly-elected prelate, each of whom on attaining +a high ecclesiastical dignity is compelled to furnish himself with several +sets. + +A lady[216] describing the ceremony of washing the feet by the Pope, +writes, in 1771, "One of his cardinals brought him an apron[217] of old +point with a broad border of Mechlin lace, and tied it with a white ribbon +round his holiness's waist." In this guise protected, he performed the +ceremony. + +Clement IX. was in the habit of making presents of Italian lace, at that +period still prized in France, to Monsieur de Sorbière, with whom he had +lived on terms of intimacy previous to his elevation. "He sends ruffles," +cries the irritated Gaul, who looked for something more tangible, "to a man +who never has a shirt."[218] + + +NAPLES. + +When Davies, Barber Surgeon of London,[219] visited Naples in 1597, he +writes, "Among the traffic of this city is lace of all sorts and garters." + +Fynes Moryson, his contemporary, declares "the Italians care not for +foreign apparel, they have ruffles of Flanders linen wrought with Italian +cut-work so much in use with us. They wear no lace in gold and silver, but +black"; while Lassels says, all they care for is to keep a coach; their +point de Venise and gold lace are all turned into horses and liveries.[220] + +PLATE XVIII. + +[Illustration: CUSHION MADE AT THE SCHOOL.--These coloured silk laces are +reproductions of the sixteenth century. Size, 20 × 12 in.] + +PLATE XIX. + +[Illustration: ITALY.--Group of workers of the Brazza School, Torreano di +Martignacco, Friuli, showing the different kinds of lacework done and +pillows in use. + +Photos by Contessa di Brazza.] + +_To face page 70._ + +{71}Of this lace we find but scanty mention. In the tailor's bill of Sir +Timothy Hutton, 1615, when a scholar at Cambridge, a charge is made for +"four oz. and a half quarter and dram of Naples lace." And in the accounts +of laces furnished for the marriage of the Princess Elizabeth to the +Elector Palatine, 1612, is noted "narrow black Naples lace, purled on both +sides." + +The principal fabric of lace was in the Island of Ischia. Vecellio, in +1590, mentions the ladies' sleeves being trimmed with very fine thread +lace.[221] Ischia lace may still be met with, and serves for trimming +toilets, table-covers, curtains, etc., consisting generally of a square +netting ground, with the pattern embroidered. Black silk lace also used to +be made in Ischia. + +Much torchon lace, of well-designed patterns, was also made, similar in +style to that given in Fig. 40. + +Though no longer fabricated in the island, the women at Naples still make a +coarse lace, which they sell about the streets.[222] + +The _punto di Napoli_ is a bobbin lace, resembling the punto di Milano, but +distinguished from it by its much rounder mesh and coarser make. + +Towards the middle of the last century, many of the Italian sculptors +adopted an atrocious system, only to be rivalled in bad taste by those of +the Lower Empire, that of dressing the individuals they modelled in the +costume of the period, the colours of the dress represented in varied +marbles. In the villa of Prince Valguarnera, near Palermo, were some years +since many of these strange productions with rich laces of coffee-coloured +point, admirably chiselled, it must be owned, in giallo antico, the long +flowing ruffles and head-*tires of the ladies being reproduced in white +alabaster.[223] + + +{72}GENOA ("GENOVA LA SUPERBA"). + + "Lost,--A rich needle work called Poynt Jean, a yard and a half long and + half quarter broad."--_The Intelligencer_, Feb. 29, 1663. + + "Genoa, for points."--_Grand Tour._ 1756. + +The art of making gold thread, already known to the Etruscans, took a +singular development in Italy during the fourteenth century. + +Genoa[224] first imitated the gold threads of Cyprus. Lucca followed in her +wake, while Venice and Milan appear much later in the field. Gold of Jeane +formed, as already mentioned, an item in our early statutes. The merchants +mingled the pure gold with Spanish "laton," producing a sort of "faux +galon," such as is used for theatrical purposes in the present day. They +made also silver and gold lace out of drawn wire, after the fashion of +those discovered, not long since, at Herculaneum. + +When Skippin visited Turin, in 1651, he described the manner of preparing +the metal wire. The art maintained itself latest at Milan, but died out +towards the end of the seventeenth century. + +Our earliest mention of Genoa lace is,[225] as usual, to be found in the +Great Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth, where laces of Jeane of black +"serico satten," of colours,[226] and billement lace of Jeane silk, are +noted down. They were, however, all of silk. + +It is not till after a lapse of nigh seventy years that first Point de +Gênes appears mentioned in an ordinance,[227] and in the wardrobe of Mary +de Médicis is enumerated, among other articles, a "mouchoir de point de +Gennes frisé."[228] + +{73}Moryson, who visited the Republic in 1589, declares "the Genoese wear +no lace or gardes." + +As late as 1597, writes Vulson de la Colombière,[229] "ni les points de +Gennes, ni de Flandre n'etoient en usage." + +It was not before the middle of the seventeenth century that the points of +Genoa were in general use throughout Europe. Handkerchiefs, aprons, +collars,[230] seem rather to have found favour with the public than lace +made by the yard. + +No better customer was found for these luxurious articles of adornment than +the fair Madame de Puissieux, already cited for her singular taste in +cut-work. + +"Elle étoit magnifique et ruina elle et ses enfans. On portoit en ce +temps-la," writes St. Simon; "force points de Gênes qui étoient extrêmement +chers; c'étoit la grande parure--et la parure de tout age: elle en mangea +pour 100,000 ecus (£20,000) en une année, à ronger entre ses dents celle +qu'elle avoit autour de sa tête et de ses bras."[231] + +"The Genoese utter a world of points of needlework," writes Lassels, at the +end of the century, and throughout the eighteenth we hear constantly of the +gold, silver and thread lace, as well as of the points of Genoa, being held +in high estimation. + +Gold and silver lace was prohibited to be worn within the walls of the +city, but they wear, writes Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, exceeding fine lace +and linen.[232] Indeed, by the sumptuary laws of the Republic, the richest +costume allowed to the ladies was black velvet trimmed with their home-made +point. + +The _femmes bourgeoises_ still edge their aprons with point lace, and some +of the elder women wear square linen veils trimmed with coarse lace.[233] + +{74}"That decayed city, Genoa, makes much lace, but inferior to that of +Flanders," states Anderson in his _Origin of Commerce_, 1764. + +The Genoese wisely encouraged their own native manufacture, but it was now, +however, chiefly for home consumption. + +Savary, speaking of the Genoa fabric, says: As regards France, these points +have had the same lot as those of Venice--ruined by the act of prohibition. + +In 1840, there were only six lace-sellers in the city of Genoa. The women +work in their own houses, receiving materials and patterns from the +merchant who pays for their labour.[234] + +Lace, in Genoa, is called _pizzo_. _Punti in aco_ were not made in this +city. The points of Genoa, so prized in the seventeenth century, were all +the work of the pillow, _a piombini_,[235] or _a mazzetta_, as the Italians +term it, of fine handspun thread brought from Lombardy. Silk was procured +from Naples. Of this Lombardy thread were the magnificent collars of which +we give an example (Fig. 35), and the fine guipures _à réseau_ which were +fashioned into aprons and fichus. The old Genoa point still finds favour in +the eyes of the clergy, and on fête days, either at Genoa or Savona, may be +seen splendid lace decorating the _camicie_ of the ecclesiastics. + +The Ligurian or Genoese guipures have four entirely distinctive characters. +The Hispano-Moresque (or Greek) point de Gênes frisé, the Vermicelli from +Rapallo and Santa Margherita, a lace resembling Milanese lace with +"brides," and a fourth kind, entirely different from these varieties, +called _fugio_ (I fly), as it is very soft and airy. It is an adaptation of +guipure-like ribbons of weaving, with open-work variations, held together +by a very few bars. In all these laces, as in Neapolitan and Milanese lace, +a crochet needle is used to join the bars and design by drawing one thread +through a pin-hole in the lace and passing a free bobbin through the loop +to draw the knot tight. + +[Illustration: Fig. 35. + +GENOA POINT, BOBBIN-MADE. From a collar in the possession of the Author. + +This is an elaborate specimen of Point de Gênes frisé--Italian merletti a +piombini. The plaits almost invariably consist of four threads. + +_To face page 74._] + +{75}The lace manufacture extends along the coast from Albissola, on the +Western Riviera, to Santa Margherita on the eastern. Santa Margherita and +Rapallo are called by Luxada[236] the emporium of the lace industry of +Genoa, and are still the greatest producers of pillow-lace on the coast. +The workers are mostly the wives and daughters of the coral-fishers who +support themselves by this occupation during the long and perilous voyages +of their husbands. In the archives of the parochial church of Santa +Margherita is preserved a book of accounts, in which mention is made, in +the year 1592, of gifts to the church, old nets from the coral fishery, +together with _pisetti_ (_pizzi_), the one a votive offering of some +successful fishermen, the other the work of their wives or daughters, given +in gratitude for the safe return of their relatives. There was also found +an old worn parchment pattern for a kind of tape guipure (Fig. 36).[237] +The manufacture, therefore, has existed in the province of Chiavari for +many centuries. Much of this description of lace is assigned to Genoa. In +these tape guipures the tape or braid was first made, and the ground worked +in on the parchment either by the needle or on the pillow. The laces +consist of white thread of various qualities, either for wear, church +decoration, or for exportation to America. + +Later, this art gave place to the making of black blonde, in imitation of +Chantilly, of which the centres in Italy are now Genoa and Cantu. In the +year 1850 the lace-workers began to make guipures for France, and these now +form their chief produce. The exportation is very great, and lace-making is +the daily occupation, not only of the women, but of the ladies of the +commune.[238] In 1862 Santa Margherita had 2,210 lace-workers: Rapallo, +1,494. The _maestri_, or overseers, receive all orders from the trade, and +find hands to execute them. The silk and thread required for the lace is +weighed out and given to the lace-makers, and the work when completed is +re-weighed to see that it corresponds with that of the material given. The +_maestri_ contrive to realise large fortunes, and become in time _signori_; +not so the poor lace-makers, whose hardest day's gain seldom exceeds a +franc and a half.[239] Embroidered lace is also made at Genoa. On a band of +tulle are embroidered in darning-stitch flowers or small detached springs, +and the ground is sometimes _semé_ with little embroidered dots. A coarse +thread outlines the embroidery. + +{76}[Illustration: Fig. 36. + +LACE PATTERN FOUND IN THE CHURCH AT SANTA MARGHERITA (circ. 1592).] + +PLATE XX. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. BOBBIN TAPE WITH NEEDLE-MADE RÉSEAU. Width, 8 in. + +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +PLATE XXI. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN, GENOESE. SCALLOPED BORDER OF UNBLEACHED THREADS, +TWISTED AND PLAITED.--Sixteenth or seventeenth century. Width, 5 in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 76._ + +{77}[Illustration: Fig. 37. + +PARCHMENT PATTERN USED TO COVER A BOOK, BEARING THE DATE 1577. (Reduced.)] + +The laces of Albissola,[240] near Savona, of black and white thread, or +silk of different colours, were once an article of considerable exportation +to the principal cities of Spain, Cadiz, Madrid and Seville. This industry +was of early date. In many of the parochial churches of Albissola are +specimens of the native fabric dating from 1600, the work of devout ladies; +and parchment patterns drawn and pricked for pillow-lace, bearing the +earlier date of 1577, have been found covering old law books, the property +of a notary of Albissola. The designs (Fig. 37) are flowing, but poor, and +have probably served for some shawl or apron, for it was a custom long +handed down for the daughters of great nobles, previous {78}to their +marriage, to select veils and shawls of this fabric, and, in the memory of +an aged workwoman (1864), the last of these bridal veils was made for a +lady of the Gentili family. Princes and lords of different provinces in +Italy sent commissions to Albissola for these articles in the palmy days of +the fabric, and four women would be employed at one pillow, with sixty +dozen bobbins at a time.[241] The making of this lace formed an occupation +by which women in moderate circumstances were willing to increase their +incomes. Each of these ladies, called a _maestra_, had a number of workers +under her, either at home or out. She supplied the patterns, pricked them +herself, and paid her workwomen at the end of the week, each day's work +being notched on a tally.[242] The women would earn from ten soldi to two +lire a day. The last fine laces made at Albissola were bought up by the +lace-merchants of Milan on the occasion of the coronation of Napoleon I. in +that city.[243] + +Among the Alençon laces is illustrated a beautiful lappet sent from Genoa, +now in the Victoria and Albert Museum.[244] The pattern is of the Louis +Quinze period, and the lovely diapered ground recalls the mayflower of the +Dresden and the oeil-de-perdrix of the Sèvres china of that time. It was +supposed to be of Italian workmanship, though the very fine ground +introduced in the _modes_ of the riband pattern is the true Alençon réseau +stitch. M. Dupont Auberville claimed it for Alençon, asserting he had met +with the same ground on point undoubtedly of that manufacture. He named it +_réseau rosacé_. + +A considerable quantity of lace was formerly made from {79}the fibre of the +aloe (filo d'erba spada)[245] by the peasants of Albissola, either of its +natural cream colour or dyed black. This lace, however, like that +fabricated in the neighbourhood of Barcelona, would not stand washing.[246] + +There exists a beautiful and ingenious work taught in the schools and +convents along the Riviera. It is carried to a great perfection at Chiavari +and also at the Albergo de' Poveri at Genoa. You see it in every stage. It +is almost the first employment of the fingers which the poor children of +either sex learn. This art is principally applied to the ornamenting of +towels, termed Macramé,[247] a long fringe of thread being left at each end +for the purpose of being knotted together in geometrical designs (Fig. 38). +Macramé at the Albergo de' Poveri were formerly made with a plain plaited +fringe, till in 1843, the Baroness A. d' Asti brought one from Rome, richly +ornamented, which she left as a pattern. Marie Picchetti, a young girl, had +the patience to unpick the fringe and discover the way it was made. A +variety of designs are now executed, the more experienced inventing fresh +patterns as they work. Some are applied to church purposes. Specimens of +elaborate workmanship were in the Paris Exhibition of 1867. These +richly-trimmed macramé form an item in the wedding trousseau of a Genoese +lady, while the commoner sorts find a ready sale in the country, and are +also exported to South America and California.[248] + + +{80}CANTU. + +Cantu, a small town near Lake Como, is one of the greatest lace-producing +centres in Italy. The lace industry was planted there in the sixteenth +century by the nuns of the Benedictine order, and until fifty years ago was +confined to simple and rude designs. During the latter half of the +nineteenth century, however, the industry has been revived and the designs +improved. Thousands of women throughout the province work at it and dispose +of their lace independently to travelling merchants, or work under the +direction of the Cantuese lace-merchants. The laces are all made with +bobbins with both thread and silk. + +[Illustration: Fig. 38. + +FRINGED MACRAMÉ.--(Genoa.)] + + +SICILY. + +Sicily was celebrated in olden times for its gold and metal laces, but this +fabric has nearly died out. An attempt, however, is now being made to +organise a revival of the lace industry as a means of support for the women +of Palermo and other populous centres. + +PLATE XXII. + +[Illustration: ] + +PLATE XXIII. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. OLD PEASANT LACES, BOBBIN MADE.--Actual size.] + +PLATE XXIV. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN. MODERN PEASANT BOBBIN LACE.--Made at the School at +Asolo near Bassano, founded by Browning. Width about 4 in. + +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 80._ + +{81}At Messina, embroidered net (lacis) was made, and bobbin-laces and the +antique Sicilian drawn-work are now copied in the women's prison there. +Torchon, a lace which is also made in Sicily, has no design worked upon the +parchment. The peasant follows the dictates of her fancy, and forms +combinations of webs and nets by skipping the holes pricked at regular +intervals over the strip of parchment sewed upon the cushion or +_ballon_.[249] + + + +There are other variations of old Italian laces and embroideries which have +not been mentioned here on account of space; either they are not often met +with--certainly not outside Italy--or in some cases they appear to be only +local names for the well-known sorts. + + + + +{82}CHAPTER V. + +GREECE. + + "Encor pour vous poincts de Raguse + Il est bon, crainte d'attentat, + D'en vouloir purger un Estat; + Les gens aussi fins que vous estes + Ne sont bons que comme vous faites + Pour ruiner les Estats."--_La Révolte des Passemens._ + + +We have already spoken of Greece as the cradle of embroidery, and in those +islands which escaped the domination of the Turks, the art still lingered +on. Cyprus, to which in after times Venice gave a queen, was renowned for +its gold, its stuffs, and its needlework. As early as 1393, in an inventory +of the Dukes of Burgundy, we find noted "un petit pourpoint de satin noir, +et est la gorgerette de maille d'argent de Chippre"--a collar of silver +network.[250] The peasants now make a coarse thread lace, and some fine +specimens have recently been made in white silk, which were exhibited in +the Cyprus Court of the Colonial and Indian Exhibition of 1886, and are now +in the possession of the Victoria and Albert Museum. + +In our own country, in 1423, we have a statute touching the deceitful works +of the embroiderers of gold and of silver of Cipre, which shall be +forfeited to the king.[251] But the secret of these cunning works became, +after a time, known throughout Europe. Of cut-works or laces from +Cyprus[252] and the islands of the Grecian seas, there is no mention; but +we hear much of a certain point known to the commerce of the seventeenth +century as that of Ragusa, which, after an ephemeral existence, disappears +from the scene. Of Ragusa, {83}says Anderson, "her citizens, though a +Popish state, are manufacturers to a man." + +Ragusa, comparatively near the Montenegrin sea-board, and north-western +coast of Greece, was, in the fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, one +of the principal Adriatic ports belonging to the Venetian Republic. Certain +it is that this little republic, closely allied with the Italian branches +of the House of Austria, served them with its navy, and in return received +from them protection. The commerce of Ragusa consisted in bearing the +products of the Greek islands and Turkey to Venice, Ancona, and the kingdom +of Naples;[253] hence it might be inferred that the fine productions of the +Greek convents were first introduced into Italy by the merchants of +Dalmatia, and received on that account the denomination of points de +Raguse. When Venice had herself learned the art, these cut-works and laces +were no longer in demand; but the fabric still continued, and found favour +in its native isles, chiefly for ecclesiastical purposes, the dress of the +islanders, and for grave-clothes. + +In our English statutes we have no allusion to the point de Raguse; in +those of France[254] it appears twice. "Tallemant des Réaux"[255] and the +"Révolte des Passemens"[256] both give it honourable notice. Judging from +the lines addressed to it in the last-named _jeu d'esprit_, point de Raguse +was of a more costly character, "faite pour ruiner les estats,"[257] than +any of those other points present. If, however, from this period it did +still form an article of commerce, we may infer that it appeared under the +general appellation of point de Venise. Ragusa had affronted Louis Quatorze +by its attachment to the Austro-Italian princes; he kicked out her +ambassadors,[258] and if the name of the point was unpleasant, we may feel +assured it was no longer permitted to offend the royal ears. + +{84}[Illustration: Fig. 39. + +SILK GIMP LACE.] + +Though no manufacture of thread lace is known at Ragusa, yet much gold and +silver lace is made for ornamenting the bodices of the peasants. They still +also fabricate a kind of silk lace or gimp, made of twisted threads of +cotton covered with metal, which is sewn down the seams of the coats and +the bodices of the peasantry. The specimen, illustrated in Fig. 39, may +possibly be the old, long-lost point de Raguse. Its resemblance, with its +looped edges, to the pattern given from _Le Pompe_,[259] published at +Venice in 1557, is very remarkable. We have seen specimens from Italy and +Turkey. + +PLATE XXV. + +[Illustration: SICILIAN. OLD DRAWN-WORK.--Height, 12 in. + +Photo by A. Dryden from Salviati & Co.'s Collection.] + +PLATE XXVI. + +[Illustration: SOUTH ITALIAN.--The upper one is seventeenth century Church +lace--réseau of threads twisted into star-shaped meshes. The three lower +are considered eighteenth century CRETAN. All pillow made of thread and +silk. Widths: 2, 2½, 1¾, 3¾ in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 84._ + +{85}The conventionally termed Greek lace is really the Italian _reticella_. +"The designs of the earliest Greek laces were all geometrical, the oldest +being simple outlines worked over ends or threads left after others had +been drawn or cut. Next in date come the patterns which had the outlines +further ornamented with half circles, triangles, or wheels. Later, +open-work with thick stitches was produced." + +[Illustration: Fig. 40. + +RETICELLA, OR GREEK LACE.--(Zante.)] + +The principal seats of the manufacture were the Ionian Isles, Zante, Corfu, +Venice, Naples, Rome, Florence and Milan. The Ionian Islands for many years +belonged to Venice, which accounts for the similarity in the manufacture. +Fig. 40 is from a specimen purchased in the Island of Zante. This lace was +much in vogue in Naples for curtains, bed-hangings, and coverlets, and even +formed a substitute for {86}tapestry. A room hung with bands of Greek lace, +alternated with crimson or amber silk, has a most effective appearance. + +The church lace of the Ionian Isles was not appreciated by the natives, who +were only too glad to dispose of it to the English officers in garrison at +Corfu. "Much is still found in Cephalonia: the natives bring it on board +the steamers for sale, black with age, and unpleasant to the senses. This +is not to be wondered at when we consider that it is taken from the tombs, +where for centuries it has adorned the grave-clothes of some defunct +Ionian. This hunting the catacombs has now become a regular trade. It is +said that much coarse lace of the same kind is still made in the islands, +steeped either in coffee or some drug, and, when thus discoloured, sold as +from the tombs" (1869). + +The Greek islands now fabricate lace from the fibre of the aloe, and a +black lace similar to the Maltese. In Athens, and other parts of Greece +proper, a white silk lace is made, mostly consumed by the Jewish Church. + + +CRETE. + +Pillow-lace making in Crete would seem to have arisen in consequence of +Venetian intercourse with the island. "The Cretan laces[260] were chiefly +of silk, which seems to point to a cultivation of silk in the island, as +well as to its importation from the neighbouring districts of Asia Minor, +when laces were made there, at least one hundred years ago." In 1875, the +South Kensington Museum acquired a collection of Cretan laces and +embroideries, some of which (the white thread laces) bear distinct traces +of Venetian influence, as, for example, those in which costumed figures are +introduced. "As a rule, the motives of Cretan lace patterns are traceable +to orderly arrangement and balance of simple geometric and symmetrical +details, such as diamonds, triangles and quaint polygonal figures, which +are displayed upon groundworks of small meshes. The workmanship is somewhat +remarkable, especially that displayed in the making of the meshes for the +grounds. Here we have an evidence of ability to twist and {87}plait threads +as marked, almost as that shown by the lace-makers of Brussels and Mechlin. +Whether the twisting and plaiting of threads to form the meshes in this +Cretan lace was done with the help of pins or fine-pointed bones, may be a +question difficult to solve." + +The patterns in the majority of the specimens are outlined with one, two, +or three bright-coloured silken threads, which may have been worked in with +the other threads as the _cordonnet_ in Mechlin. The numerous +interlacements which this _cordonnet_ makes with the lace point also to the +outline having perhaps been run in with a needle. + + +TURKEY. + +"The Turks wear no lace or cut stuff," writes Moryson (1589), winding up +with "neither do the women wear lace or cut-work on their shirts"; but a +hundred and fifty years later fashions are changed in the East. The Grand +Turk now issues sumptuary laws against the wearing gold lace "on clothes +and elsewhere."[261] + +A fine white silk guipure is now made in modern Turkey at Smyrna and +Rhodes, oriental in its style; this lace is formed with the needle or +tambour hook. Lace or passementerie of similar workmanship, called "oyah" +is also executed in colours representing flowers, fruits and foliage, +standing out in high relief from the ground. Numerous specimens were in the +International Exhibition of 1867. + +The point lace manufactured in the harems is little known and costly in +price. It is said to be the only silk guipure made with the needle. Edgings +of it resemble in workmanship Figs. 121 and 122. + + +MALTA. + +The lace once made in Malta, indigenous to the island, was a coarse kind of +Mechlin or Valenciennes of one arabesque pattern.[262] In 1833, Lady +Hamilton Chichester {88}induced a woman named Ciglia to copy in white the +lace of an old Greek coverlet. The Ciglia family from that time commenced +the manufacture of the black and white silk guipures, so generally known +under the name of Maltese lace. Much Maltese is made in the orphanage in +the little adjacent island of Gozo. Malta has certainly the first claim to +the invention of these fine guipures, which have since made the fortune of +Auvergne, where they have been extensively manufactured at Le Puy, as well +as by our own lace-makers of Bedfordshire and in the Irish schools. The +black is made of Barcelona silk, the same used in Catalonia for the +fabrication of the black blonde mantillas of the Spanish ladies. Fig. 41 +represents the lace round the ecclesiastical robe of Hugues Loubeux de +Verdale, Cardinal and Grand Master of the Knights of Malta, who died in +1595, and is buried in the church of St. John, where a magnificent tomb is +erected to his memory. + +[Illustration: Fig. 41. + +LOUBEUX DE VERDALE.--(From the cast of his Tomb, Musée de Versailles.)] + +Pillow-laces made by women in Ceylon and Travancore, as well as elsewhere +in India,[263] seem to owe more to the instruction of the Portuguese than +to the Dutch or English. We mention it in this place because the specimens +of thread pillow-lace from Point de Galle and Candy bear a striking +resemblance to the Maltese. + +PLATE XXVII. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN, RAPALLO. MODERN PEASANT LACE, BOBBIN MADE, IN +SILK.--Actual size.] + +PLATE XXVIII. + +[Illustration: MALTESE. MODERN, BOBBIN MADE IN SILK.--About two-thirds +actual size. + +Photos by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 88._ + +{89}[Illustration: Fig. 42. + +BOBBIN-LACE.--(Ceylon.)] + +The specimens of Indian pillow-laces, wrought with white and black threads, +in the India Museum, are apparently made in single pieces, and not as in +Honiton laces, by separate flowers, which are subsequently placed together +for the ground to be worked in between them.[264] "A missionary taught a +few Chinese women to make silk lace from the wild silk of this part of +China," reports Consul Bullock from Chefoo (at the request of the +Nottingham Chamber of Commerce), but the small quantity of lace so produced +is sold to Europeans only. The Chinese do not care to buy it. Acting Consul +Trotman also reported from Hangkow, that a large quantity of hand-made lace +is made in the Roman Catholic orphanages there, but this was entirely for +European consumption. White lace in China is not woven by the natives, for +white and blue being the national mourning colours, and severe simplicity +of dress being _de rigueur_ on these occasions, lace of these colours has +no sale.[265] + + + + +{90}CHAPTER VI. + +SPAIN. + + "Of Point d'Espagne a rich cornet, + Two night rails and a scarf beset, + With a large lace and collaret." + --Evelyn, _Voyage to Marryland_. + + "Hat laced with gold Point d'Espagne."[266] + --Wardrobe of a Pretty Fellow, _Roderick Random_. + + "The Count: 'Voglio una punta di Spagna, larga, massiccia, ben lavorata. + Del disegno, della ricchezza, ma niente di luccicante."--Goldoni, + _L'Avaro fastoso_. + + +Spanish point, in its day, has been as celebrated as that of Flanders and +Italy. Tradition declares Spain to have learned the art from Italy, whence +she communicated it to Flanders, who, in return, taught Spain how to make +pillow-lace. Though the dress of the Court, guided not by the impulse of +fashion, but by sumptuary laws, gave little encouragement to the fabric, on +the other hand, the numberless images of our Lady and other patron saints, +dressed and redressed daily in the richest vestments, together with the +albs of the priests and the decorations of the altars, caused an immense +consumption of lace for ecclesiastical purposes. "Of so great value," says +Beckford, "were the laces of these favoured Madonnas, that in 1787 the +Marchioness of Cogalhudo, wife of the eldest son of the semi-royal race of +Medino Coeli, was appointed Mistress of the Robes to our Lady of La +Solidad, at Madrid, a much-coveted office." + +{91}[Illustration: Fig. 43. + +THE WORK-ROOM.--(From an engraving of the Sixteenth Century after +Stradan.)] + +Point d'Espagne, in the usual sense of the word, signifies that gold or +silver lace, sometimes embroidered in colours, so largely consumed in +France during the earlier years of Louis XIV.'s reign. Ornaments made of +plaited and twisted gold and silver threads were produced in Spain during +the seventeenth century, and mention of them is to be found in the +ordinances of that time. Towards the end of the century, Narciso Felin, +author of a work published in Barcelona, quoted by M. Aubry, writes that, +"edgings of all sorts of gold, silver, silk thread and aloe fibres are made +at Barcelona with greater perfection than in Flanders." In the sixteenth +century, Flanders was part of the Spanish dominions, and from Flanders +Spain imported artistic goods, linen and lace included. Mr. A. S. Cole +concludes from this that the Barcelona lace-making was more or less an +imitation of that which had previously existed in Spanish Flanders. + +{92}Apart from this, the gold and silver lace of Cyprus, Venice, Lucca and +Genoa preceded that from Flanders, and it appears that Spain was later in +the field of artistic lace-making than either Italy, Flanders or France. +Even the celebrity of the gold point d'Espagne is probably due more to the +use of gold lace by Spanish grandees,[267] than to the production in Spain +of gold lace. The name point d'Espagne was, I think, a commercial one, +given to gold lace by French makers.[268] + +Dominique de Sera, in his _Livre de Lingerie_, published in 1584, +especially mentions that many of the patterns of point couppé and passement +given were collected by him during his travels in Spain; and in this he is +probably correct, for as early as 1562, in the Great Wardrobe Account of +Queen Elizabeth, we have noted down sixteen yards of black Spanish _laquei_ +(lace) for ruffs, price 5s. + +The early pattern-books contain designs to be worked in gold and +silver,[269] a manufacture said to have been carried on chiefly by the +Jews,[270] as indeed it is in many parts of Europe at the present time; an +idea which strengthens on finding that two years after the expulsion of +that persecuted tribe from the country, in 1492, the most Catholic kings +found it necessary to pass a law prohibiting the importation of gold lace +from Lucca and Florence, except such as was necessary for ecclesiastical +purposes. Mrs. Palliser was of opinion that thread lace was manufactured in +Spain at this epoch, for, "in the cathedral of Granada is preserved a lace +alb presented to the church by Ferdinand and Isabella, one of the few +relics of ecclesiastical grandeur still extant in the country." The late +Cardinal Wiseman stated to Mrs. Palliser that he had himself officiated in +this vestment, which was valued at 10,000 {93}crowns. But the following +passage from Señor Riano greatly affects the value of what would otherwise +be a fact of importance adduced by Mrs. Palliser. "Notwithstanding the +opinion of so competent an authority as Mrs. Palliser, I doubt the +statement, finding no evidence to support it, that thread lace of a very +fine or artistic kind was ever made in Spain, or exported as an article of +commerce during early times. The lace alb which Mrs. Palliser mentions to +prove this as existing at Granada, a gift of Ferdinand and Isabella in the +fifteenth century, is Flemish lace of the seventeenth."[271] + +The sumptuous "Spanish point," the white thread heavy arabesque lace, was +an Italian production originally. It was imported for the Spanish churches +and then imitated in the convents by the nuns, but was little known to the +commercial world of Europe until the dissolution of the Spanish +monasteries[272] in 1830, when the most splendid specimens of nun's work +came suddenly into the market; not only the heavy lace generally designated +as "Spanish point," but pieces of the very finest description (like point +de Venise), so exquisite as to have been the work only of those whose "time +was not money," and whose devotion to the Church and to their favourite +saints rendered this work a labour of love, when in plying their needles +they called to mind its destination. Among the illustrations are some +photographs received from Rome of some curious relics of old Spanish +conventual work, parchment patterns with the lace in progress. They were +found in the Convent of Jesù Bambino, and belonged to some Spanish nuns +who, in bygone ages, taught the art to the novices. None of the present +inmates can give further information respecting them. The work, like all +point, was executed in separate pieces given out to the different nuns and +then joined together by a more skilful hand. In Fig. 44 we see the pattern +traced out by two threads fixed in their places by small stitches made at +intervals by a needle and aloe[273] thread working from underneath. The +réseau ground is alone worked in. We see the thread left as by Sister +Felice Vittoria when she last plied her task. + +{94}Fig. 45 has the pearled ground, the pattern traced as in the other. +Loops of a coarser thread are placed at the corners, either to fasten the +parchment to a light frame, like a schoolboy's slate, or to attach it to a +cushion. In Fig. 46 the pattern is just worked. + +[Illustration: Fig. 44. + +UNFINISHED WORK OF A SPANISH NUN.] + +PLATE XXIX. + +[Illustration: SPANISH. MODERN THREAD BOBBIN LACE MADE AT +ALMAGRO.--Slightly reduced.] + +PLATE XXX. + +[Illustration: SPANISH, BLONDE. WHITE SILK DARNING ON MACHINE +NET.--Nineteenth century. Much reduced. + +Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] + +_To face page 94._ + +{95}A possible reference to lace is found in Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de +Campos,[274] in his book, _Microscosmia y gobierno Universal del Hombre +Crestiano_, when he writes, "I will not be silent, and fail to mention the +time lost these last years in the manufacture of _cadenetas_, a work of +thread combined with gold and silver; this extravagance and excess reached +such a point that hundreds and thousands of ducats were spent in this work, +in which, besides destroying the eyesight, wasting away the lives, and +rendering consumptive the women who worked it, and preventing them from +spending their time with more advantage to their souls, a few ounces of +thread and years of time were wasted with so unsatisfactory a result. I ask +myself, after the fancy has passed away, will the lady or gentleman find +that the chemises that cost them fifty ducats, or the _basquina_ +(petticoats) that cost them three hundred, are worth half their price?" + +[Illustration: Fig. 45. + +UNFINISHED WORK OF A SPANISH NUN.] + +"The most important of Spanish ordinances[275] relating to Spanish art and +industry are those which appeared in the {96}fifteenth and sixteenth +centuries in Toleda and Seville, both remarkable centres for all kinds of +artistic productions. In neither of these, nor in the sixteenth and +seventeenth century ordinances relating to Granada--another art-centre--is +there any mention of lace. + +[Illustration: Fig. 46. + +UNFINISHED WORK OF A SPANISH NUN.] + +"In the laws which were passed by Ferdinand and Isabella at the end of the +fifteenth and beginning of the sixteenth centuries, no mention is made of +lace, though numerous {97}details of costumes are named. It will be seen +from these remarks on Spanish lace that we give to Italy the credit of +producing the artistic and valuable point lace, which unexpectedly came out +of Spain after the dissolution of the monasteries." + +The ordinance of Philip III, against the wearing of lace, dated 1623, which +enjoined "simples rabats, sans aucune invention de point couppé ou +passement" for the men, with fraises and manchettes in like trim for the +ladies, both too without starch,[276] and which extended to gold and silver +lace, was suspended during the matrimonial visit of Prince Charles;[277] +indeed, the Queen of Spain herself sent him, on his arrival at Madrid, ten +trunks of richly-laced linen. The Prince had travelled incognito, and was +supposed to be ill-provided. Whether the surmises of her Majesty were +correct, we cannot presume to affirm; we only know that, on the occasion of +the Spanish voyage, a charge of two dozen and a half laced shirts, at +twelve shillings each, for the Prince's eight footmen, appears in the +wardrobe accounts.[278] + +The best account of Spanish manners of the seventeenth century will be +found in the already-mentioned _Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain_. +"Under the vertingale of black taffety," she writes, "they wear a dozen or +more petticoats, one finer than the other, of rich stuffs trimmed with lace +of gold and silver, to the girdle. They wear at all times a white garment +called _sabenqua_; it is made of the finest English lace, and four ells in +compass. I have seen some worth five or six hundred crowns;... so great is +their vanity, they would rather have one of these lace _sabenquas_ than a +dozen coarse ones;[279] and either lie in bed till it is washed, or dress +themselves without any, which they frequently enough do." A number of +portraits exist in the Spanish galleries, {98}especially by Velasquez and +Carrêno, in which these extravagant costumes are fully portrayed, but in +very few Spanish portraits of the seventeenth century does thread lace of +the kind known to us as point d'Espagne, or de Venise ever appear. +Describing her visit to the Princess of Monteleon, the author continues: +"Her bed is of gold and green damask, lined with silver brocade, and +trimmed with point de Spain.[280] Her sheets were laced round with an +English lace, half an ell deep. The young Princess bade her maids bring in +her wedding clothes. They brought in thirty silver baskets, so heavy, four +women could carry only one basket; the linen and lace were not inferior to +the rest." The writer continues to enumerate the garters, mantle, and even +the curtains of the Princess's carriage, as trimmed with fine English +thread, black and bone lace.[281] + +Judging from this account, Spain at that period received her "dentelles +d'Angleterre" from the Low Countries. Spain was early celebrated for its +silk,[282] which with its coloured embroidered laces, and its gold and +silver points, have always enjoyed a certain reputation. Of the latter, +during the seventeenth century, we have constant mention in the wardrobe +accounts and books of fashion of the French court. The description of the +celebrated gold bed at Versailles, the interior lacings of the carriages, +the velvet and brocade coats and dresses, "chamarrés de point d'Espagne," +the laces of gold and coloured silk, would alone fill a volume to +themselves.[283] {99}Narciso Felin, writing in the seventeenth +century,[284] says that at that time "edgings of all sorts of gold,[285] +silver, silk, thread, and aloe, are made there with greater perfection than +in Flanders." Campany, another old author, carries the number of +lace-makers to 12,000. The Spaniards are said, nevertheless, in 1634, to +have derived a great part of their laces from the Île de France, while the +French, on their part, preferred those of Flanders.[286] That the lace +import was considered excessive is evident by the tariff of 1667; the +import duty of twenty-five reals per pound on lace was augmented to two +hundred and fifty reals. Much point was introduced into Spain at this time +by way of Antwerp to Cadiz, under the name of "puntos de mosquito e de +transillas." + +Madame des Ursins, 1707, in a letter to Madame de Maintenon, ordering the +layette of the Queen of Spain from Paris, writes: "If I were not afraid of +offending those concerned in the purchase, in my avarice for the King of +Spain's money, I would beg them to send a low-priced lace for the linen." + +{100}This gold point d'Espagne was much fabricated for home consumption. +The oldest banner of the Inquisition--that of Valladolid--is described as +bordered with real point d'Espagne, of a curious Gothic (geometric) design. +At the Auto-da-fè, the grandees of Spain and officers of the Holy Office +marched attired in cloaks, with black and white crosses, edged with this +gold lace. Silver point d'Espagne was also worn on the uniform of the +Maestranza, a body of nobility formed into an order of chivalry at Seville, +Ronda, Valencia and Granada. Even the saints were rigged out, especially +St. Anthony, at Valencia, whose laced costume, periwig and ruffles are +described as "glorious." + +[Illustration: Fig. 47. + +OLD SPANISH PILLOW-LACE.] + +Point d'Espagne was likewise made in France, introduced by one Simon +Châtelain, a Huguenot, about 1596, in return for which good services he +received more protection than his advanced opinions warranted. Colbert, +becoming minister in 1662, guaranteed to Simon his safety--a boon already +refused to many by the intolerant spirit of the times. He died in 1675, +having amassed a large fortune.[287] That the fabric prospered, the +following entry in the wardrobe accounts of the Duke de Penthièvre, 1732, +gives proof:[288] "Un bord de Point d'Espagne d'or de Paris, à fonds de +réseau." "France," writes Anderson, "exports much lace into Spain." + +PLATE XXXI. + +[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF THE DUCHESSE DE MONTPENSIER, INFANTA OF SPAIN, +SHOWING MANTILLA. + +Middle of nineteenth century. M. de Versailles.] + +_To face page 100._ + +{101}"The sumptuary law of 1723 has taken away," writes the author of two +thick books on Spanish commerce, "all pretence for importing all sorts of +point and lace of white and black silk which are not the manufactures of +our kingdom. The Spaniards acted on Lord Verulam's policy--that foreign +superfluities should be prohibited[289]--for by so doing you either banish +them or gain the manufacture." But towards the middle of the eighteenth +century there are notices of constant seizures of vessels bound from St. +Malo to Cadiz, freighted with gold and silver lace. The _Eagle_, French +vessel, taken by Captain Carr, in 1745, bore cases to the value of +£150,000.[290] In 1789 we also read that the exports of lace from the port +of Marseilles alone to Cadiz exceeded £500,000,[291] and the author of the +_Apendice a la Educacion Popular_[292] states that "all the five qualities +(of lace) come from foreign lands, and the greater varieties of coarser +ones." + +Gold and silver lace were made at Barcelona, Talavera de la Reyna, Valencia +and Seville. In 1808 that of Seville was flourishing. The gold is badly +prepared, having a red cast. The manufacture of blonde is almost entirely +confined to Catalonia, where it is made in many of the villages along the +sea-coast, and especially in the city of Barcelona. In 1809 it gave +employment to 12,000 persons, a number which in 1869 was augmented to +34,000. + +There are no large manufactories, and the trade is in the hands of women +and children, who make it on their own account, and as they please.[293] +Swinburne, who visited Spain in 1775, writes: "The women of the hamlets +were busy with their bobbins making black lace, some of which, of the +coarser kind, is spun out of the leaf of the aloe. It is curious, but of +little use, for it grows mucilaginous with washing." He adds: "At Barcelona +there is a great trade in thread lace."[294] Larruga, in his +{102}_Memorias_,[295] mentions a manufacture of gold and silver lace which +had been set up lately in Madrid, and in another place he[296] mentions +lace made at La Mancha,[297] where "the industry of lace has existed at +Almagro from time immemorial." Don Manuel Fernandez and Donna Rita Lambert, +his wife, natives of Madrid, established in this town in 1766 a manufacture +of silk and thread lace. This industry also existed at Granatula, +Manzanares and other villages in La Mancha. At Zamora "lace and blonde were +made in private houses." In _Sempere Historia del Lujo_[298] we find that +in the ordinance issued in 1723 the "introduction of every sort of edgings +or foreign laces was prohibited; the only kinds allowed were those made in +the country." Cabanillas writes[299] that at Novelda a third part of the +inhabitants made lace, and that "more than 2,000 among women and children +worked at this industry, and the natives themselves hawked their wares +about the country."[300] + +The laces of New Castile were exported to America, to which colonies, in +1723, the sumptuary laws were extended, as more necessary than in Spain, +"many families having been ruined," says Ustariz, "by the great quantities +of fine lace and gold stuffs they purchased of foreign manufacture, by +which means Spanish America is drained of many millions of dollars."[301] A +Spanish lace-maker does not earn on an average two reals (5d.) a day.[302] + +The national mantilla is, of course, the principal piece manufactured. Of +the three kinds which, _de rigueur_, form the toilette of the Spanish lady, +the first is composed of white blonde, a most unbecoming contrast to their +sallow, olive complexion; this is only used on state occasions--birthdays, +bull-fights, and Easter Mondays. The second is black {103}blonde, trimmed +with a deep lace. The third, "mantilla de tiro," for ordinary wear, is made +of black silk, trimmed with velvet. A Spanish woman's mantilla is held +sacred by law, and cannot be seized for debt.[303] The silk employed for +the lace is of a superior quality. Near Barcelona is a silk-spinning +manufactory, whose products are specially used for the blondes of the +country. Spanish silk laces do not equal in workmanship those of Bayeux and +Chantilly, either in the firmness of the ground or regularity of the +pattern. The annual produce of this industry scarcely amounts to +£80,000.[304] + +Specimens of Barcelona white lace have been forwarded to us from Spain, +bearing the dates of 1810, 1820, 1830 and 1840. Some have much resemblance +to the fabric of Lille--clear hexagonal ground, with the pattern worked in +one coarse thread; others are of a double ground, the designs flowers, +bearing evidence of a Flemish origin.[305] + +Spain sent to the International Exhibitions, together with her black and +white mantillas, fanciful laces gaily embroidered in coloured silks and +gold thread--an ancient fabric lately revived, but constantly mentioned in +the inventories of the French Court of the seventeenth century, and also by +the lady whose letters we have already quoted. When describing a visit to +Donna Teresa de Toledo, who received her in bed, she writes: "She had +several little pillows tied with ribbons and trimmed with broad fine lace. +She had 'lasses' all of flowers of point de Spain in silk and gold, which +looked very pretty."[306] + +The finest specimen of Spanish work exhibited in 1862 {104}was a mantilla +of white blonde, the ground a light guipure, the pattern, wreaths of +flowers supported by Cupids. In the official report on Lace and Embroidery +at the International Exhibition of that year, we read that "the manufacture +of black and white Spanish lace shows considerable progress since 1851, +both in respect of design and fabrication. The black mantillas vary in +value from £4 to £50, and upwards of 20,000 persons are said to be employed +in their manufacture." + +Before concluding our account of Spanish lace, we must allude to the +"dentelles de Moresse," supposed by M. Francisque Michel[307] to be of +Iberian origin, fabricated by the descendants of the Moors who remained in +Spain and embraced Christianity. These points are named in the +above-mentioned "Révolte des Passemens," where the author thus announces +their arrival at the fair of St. Germain:-- + + "Il en vint que, le plus souvent. + On disoit venir du Levant; + Il en vint des bords de l'Ibère. + Il en vint d'arriver n'agueres + Des pays septentrionaux." + +What these points were it would be difficult to state. In the inventory of +Henry VIII. is marked down, "a purle of morisco work." + +One of the pattern-books gives on its title-page-- + + "Dantique et Roboesque + En comprenant aussi Moresque." + +A second speaks of "Moreschi et arabesche."[308] A third is entitled, "Un +livre de moresque."[309] A fourth, "Un livre de feuillages entrelatz et +ouvrages moresques."[310] All we can say on the subject is, that the making +cloths of chequered lace formed for a time the favourite employment of +Moorish maidens, and they are still to be purchased, yellow with age, in +the African cities of Tangier and Tetuan. They may be distinguished from +those worked by Christian fingers from the absence of all animals in the +pattern, the representation of living creatures, either in painting, +sculpture, or embroidery, being strictly forbidden by Mahommedan law. + +PLATE XXXII. + +[Illustration: JEWISH.--Made in Syria. The pattern is only modern Torchon, +but the knotting stitch is their peculiar tradition. Same size.] + +PLATE XXXIII. + +[Illustration: SPANISH.--The upper one is a copy of Italian lace clumsily +made. The lower is probably a "dentelle de Moresse." Widths about 3½ in. + +Photo by A. Dryden from Salviati & Co.'s Collection.] + +_To face page 104._ + +{105}PORTUGAL. + +Point lace was held in high estimation in Portugal. There was no regular +manufacture; it formed the amusement of the nuns and a few women who worked +at their own houses. The sumptuary law of 1749 put an end to all luxury +among the laity. Even those who exposed such wares as laces in the streets +were ordered to quit the town.[311] + +In 1729,[312] when Barbara, sister of Joseph, King of Portugal, at +seventeen years of age, married Ferdinand, Prince of Spain, before quitting +Lisbon, she repaired to the church of the Madre de Dios, on the Tagus, and +there solemnly offered to the Virgin the jewels and a dress of the richest +Portuguese point she had worn on the day of her espousals. This lace is +described as most magnificent, and was for near a century exhibited under a +glass case to admiring eyes, till, at the French occupation of the +Peninsula, the Duchesse d'Abrantès, or one of the Imperial generals, is +supposed to have made off with it.[313] When Lisbon arose from her ashes +after the terrible earthquake of 1755, the Marquis de Pombal founded large +manufactures of lace, which were carried on under his auspices. Wraxall, in +his _Memoirs_, mentions having visited them. + +The fine points in relief of Italy and Spain were the result of such time +and labour as to render them too costly for moderate means. Hence they were +extensively counterfeited. The principal scroll of the pattern was formed +by means of tape or linen cut out and sewn on, and the reliefs were +produced by cords fixed and overcast after the work was finished, thus +substituting linen and cords for parts of {106}the needlework. These +counterfeit points were in France the occasion in 1669 of an ordinance. + +[Illustration: Fig. 48. + +BOBBIN-LACE.--(Madeira.)] + +The modern laces of Portugal and Madeira closely resemble those of Spain; +the wider for flounces are of silk: much narrow lace is made after the +fashion of Mechlin. Both Spain and Portugal enjoy a certain reputation for +their imitation white Chantilly lace. A considerable quantity of coarse +white lace, very effective in pattern, was formerly made in Lisbon and the +environs;[314] this was chiefly exported, _viâ_ Cadiz, to South America. +Both black and white are {107}extensively made in the peninsula of Peniche, +north of Lisbon (Estremadura Province), and employ the whole female +population. Children at four years of age are sent to the lace school, and +are seated at _almofadas_ (pillows) proportioned to their height, on which +they soon learn to manage the bobbins, sometimes sixty dozen or more, with +great dexterity.[315] The nuns of Odivales were, till the dissolution of +the monasteries, famed for their lace fabricated of the fibres of the aloe. + +[Illustration: Fig. 49. + +BOBBIN-LACE.--(Brazil.)] + +Pillow-lace was made at Madeira at the beginning of the nineteenth century. +The coarse kind, a species of _dentelle torchon_, served for trimming +pillow-cases and sheets--"seaming lace," as it was called (Fig. 49). +Sometimes the threads of the linen were drawn out after the manner of +cut-work; but the manufacture had entirely ceased until 1850 (circ.), when +it was re-established by Mrs. Bayman.[316] + +{108}Brazil makes a coarse narrow pillow-lace for home consumption. + +The Republics of Central and South America show indications of lace-making, +consisting chiefly of darned netting and drawn-work, the general +characteristic of the lace of these countries. The lace-bordered +handkerchiefs of Brazil, and the productions of Venezuela, with the borders +of the linen trousers of the guachos, and the Creva lace of the blacks of +the Province of Minas Geraes, are the finest specimens of drawn-work. The +lace of Chili is of the old lozenge pattern, and men also appear to be +employed on the work. In Paraguay there are two sorts of work--Nanduti or +"toile d'arraignée," made in silk or thread by a needle on a cardboard +pattern by the copper-coloured natives as an industry; also embroidery and +drawn thread-work on linen, of which there are specimens in the Victoria +and Albert Museum--all traditions of the European missionaries and traders +who first colonised the country. + +PLATE XXXIV. + +[Illustration: SPANISH.--Pillow made nineteenth century. Réseau of two +threads twisted and crossed. Slightly reduced.] + +PLATE XXXV + +[Illustration: PARAGUAY. "NANDUTI."--End of nineteenth century. Reduced +rather over half. + +Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] + +_To face page 108._ + + + + +{109}CHAPTER VII. + +FLANDERS. + + "For lace, let Flanders bear away the belle." + --Sir C. Hanbury Williams. + + "In French embroidery and in Flanders lace + I'll spend the income of a treasurer's place." + --_The Man of Taste_, Rev. W. Bramstone. + + +Flanders and Italy together dispute the invention of lace. In many towns of +the Low Countries are pictures of the fifteenth century, in which are +portrayed personages adorned with lace,[317] and Baron Reiffenberg, a +Belgian writer, asserts that lace cornettes, or caps, were worn in that +country as early as the fourteenth century. As evidence for the early +origin of pillow-lace in the Low Countries, Baron Reiffenberg mentions an +altar-piece, attributed to Quentin Matsys (in a side chapel of the choir of +St. Peter's, at Louvain), in which a girl is represented making lace with +bobbins on a pillow with a drawer, similar to that now in use.[318] There +exists a series of engravings after Martin de Vos (1580-85), giving the +occupations of the seven ages of life: in the third,[319] assigned to _âge +mûr_, is seen a girl, sitting with a pillow on her knees, making lace (Fig. +50). The occupation must have been then common, or the artist would +scarcely have chosen it to characterise the habits of his country. + +Of the two paintings attributed to Matsys--that in St. Peter's, at Louvain, +and that in Lierre, only the former is now assigned to the artist. Both +pictures are said to be of the end of the fifteenth century or beginning of +the sixteenth. + +{110}[Illustration: Fig. 50. + +LACE-MAKING.--(After Martin de Vos.)] + +The triptych at Louvain is reproduced and described in detail by Van Even +in his work, _Louvain dans le passé et dans le présent_;[320] it consists +of five panels, the centre panel representing "La famille de Sainte Anne"; +but among all the figures none, however, appear to be engaged in making +lace or, indeed, in any form of needlework. + +PLATE XXXVI. + +[Illustration: FLEMISH. PORTION OF BED COVER, BOBBIN-MADE.--First half of +seventeenth century. This is said to have belonged to Philip IV. of Spain. +Above the Austrian eagle and crown is the collar of the Golden Fleece. The +workmanship is of great skill. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 110._ + +{111}It has been suggested that the "Lace-maker making lace with bobbins on +a pillow with a drawer" (alluded to by Baron Reiffenberg) in the triptych +is taken from the above-mentioned engravings by Nicholas de Bruyel and +Assuerus van Londonzeel, after the drawings of Martin de Vos. + +The historian of the Duke of Burgundy[321] declares Charles the Bold to +have lost his _dentelles_ at the battle of Granson, 1476; he does not state +his authority. Probably they were gold or silver, for no other exist among +his relics. + +In Vecellio's _Corona_ of 1593 and 1596 are two designs of geometrical +lace--"ponto fiamengho" and "Manegetti di ponto Fiamengo," point de +Flandre. + +In 1651, Jacob v. Eyck, a Flemish poet, sang the praises of lace-making in +Latin verse. "Of many arts one surpasses all; the threads woven by the +strange power of the hand, threads which the dropping spider would in vain +attempt to imitate, and which Pallas would confess she had never known;" +and a deal more in the same style.[322] + +The lace-manufacture of the Netherlands, as Baron Reiffenberg writes, has a +glorious past. After exciting the jealousy of other European nations, in +the sixteenth century, when every industrial art fled from the horrors of +religious persecution, the lace fabric alone upheld itself, and by its +prosperity saved Flanders from utter ruin. Every country of Northern +Europe,[323] Germany, and England, has learned the art of lace-making from +Flanders. After the establishment of the Points de France by Colbert, +Flanders was alarmed at the number of lace-makers who emigrated, and passed +an act, dated Brussels, December 26th, 1698, {112}threatening with +punishment any who should suborn her workpeople. + +Lace-making forms an abundant source of national wealth to Belgium, and +enables the people of its superannuated cities to support themselves, as it +were, on female industry.[324] One-fourth of the whole population (150,000 +women) were said to be thus engaged, in 1861. But a small number assemble +in the ateliers; the majority work at home. The trade now flourishes as in +the most palmy days of the Netherlands. + +[Illustration: Fig. 51. + +CAP OF THE EMPEROR CHARLES V.--(Musée de Cluny.) + +This engraving is not accurately drawn. The spaces contain birds and +crosses, and not sprigs.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 52. + +ISABELLA CLARA EUGENIA, DAUGHTER OF PHILIP II., ARCHDUCHESS OF AUSTRIA, +GOVERNESS OF THE NETHERLANDS.--Died 1633. + +_To face page 112._] + +{113}Lace forms a part of female education in Belgium. Charles V. commanded +it to be taught in the schools and convents. Examples of the manufactures +of his period may be seen in the cap said to be worn by him under his +crown, and in the contemporary portrait of his sister Mary, Queen of +Hungary. This cap, long preserved in the treasury of the bishop-princes of +Basle, has now passed into the Musée de Cluny (Fig. 51). It is of fine +linen; the imperial arms are embroidered in relief, alternate with designs +in lacis of exquisite workmanship.[325] + + +[Illustration: Fig. 53. + +MARY, QUEEN OF HUNGARY, GOVERNESS OF THE LOW COUNTRIES. +1558.--(From her +portrait, Musée de Versailles.)] + +Queen Mary's cuffs (Fig. 53) are of the geometric pattern of the age, and +we may presume, of Flanders make, as she was Governess of the Low Countries +from 1530 till her death. The grand-daughter of Charles V., the Infanta +Isabella, who brought the Low Countries as her dower,[326] appears in her +portraits (Fig. 52) most resplendent in lace, and her ruff rivals in size +those of our Queen Elizabeth, or Reine Margot. + +But to return to our subject. Of the lace schools there were nearly 900 in +1875, either in the convents or founded by private charity. At the age of +five small girls commence {114}their apprenticeship; by ten they earn their +maintenance; and it is a pretty sight, an "école dentellière," the children +seated before their pillows, twisting their bobbins with wonderful +dexterity. (Fig. 54.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 54. + +A BELGIAN LACE SCHOOL.] + +In a tract of the seventeenth century entitled, _England's Improvement by +Sea and Land, to outdo the Dutch without Fighting_,[327] we have an amusing +account of one of these establishments. "Joining to this spinning school is +one for maids weaving bone lace, and in all towns there are schools +according to the bigness and multitude of the children. I will show you how +they are governed. First, there is a large room, and in the middle thereof +a little box like a pulpit. Second, there are benches built about the room +as they are in our playhouses. And in the box in the middle of the room the +grand mistress, with a long white wand in her hand. If she observes any of +them idle, she reaches them a tap, and if that will not do, she rings a +bell, which, by a little cord, is attached to the box. She points out the +offender, and she is taken into another room and chastised. And I believe +this way of ordering the young women in Germany (Flanders) is one great +cause that the German women have so little twit-twat,[328] and I am sure it +will be as well were it so in England. There the children emulate the +father--here they beggar him. Child," he winds up, "I charge you tell this +to thy wyfe in bed, and it may be that she, understanding the benefit it +will be to her and her children, will turn Dutchwoman and endeavour to save +moneys." Notwithstanding this good advice, in 1768 England received from +Flanders lace-work £250,000 to her disadvantage, as compared to her +exports. + +[Illustration: Fig. 55. + +OLD FLEMISH BOBBIN LACE. + +_To face page 114._] + +{115}[Illustration: Fig. 56. + +OLD FLEMISH (Trolle Kant). + +The piece of lace from which this woodcut is taken has five or six +different designs all joined together; probably patterns sent round for +orders.] + +The old Flemish laces are of great beauty, some of varied grounds. Fig. 56 +represents a description of lace called in the country "Trolle kant," a +name which has been transferred to our own lace counties, where lace of a +peculiar {116}make is styled Trolly, with a heavy cordonnet which is called +gimp or Trolly. _Kant_ in Flemish is "lace." + +At one period much lace was smuggled into France from Belgium by means of +dogs trained for the purpose. A dog was caressed and petted at home, fed on +the fat of the land, then after a season sent across the frontier, where he +was tied up, half-starved and ill-treated. The skin of a bigger dog was +then fitted to his body, and the intervening space filled with lace. The +dog was then allowed to escape and make his way home, where he was kindly +welcomed with his contraband charge. These journeys were repeated till the +French Custom House, getting scent, by degrees put an end to the traffic. +Between 1820 and 1836 40,278 dogs were destroyed, a reward of three francs +being given for each.[329] + +According to some authorities the earliest lace made in Flanders was of the +kind known as Pillow Guipure. The pattern is made as of tape, in flowing +Renaissance style, sometimes connected by brides, and sometimes altogether +without brides, when the points of the pattern touch each other. In the +specimens of this type of lace in the Victoria and Albert Museum there is +apparently little in the laces by which the country of their origin may be +identified. Sometimes they have been considered French, sometimes Flemish, +and sometimes Italian. [See the specimens of tape-lace in the Catalogue of +the lace in the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 49, by A. S. Cole.] (Plate +XXXVIII.) + + +BRUSSELS (BRABANT). + + "More subtile web Arachne cannot spin."--Spenser. + + "From Lisle I came to Brussels, where most of the fine laces are made you + see worn in England."--Lord Chesterfield, 1741. + +At what period the manufacture of Brussels lace commenced we are ignorant; +but, judging from the earlier patterns, it may be placed at the beginning +of the sixteenth century. The ancient churches of Brabant possess, it is +said, many precious specimens, the gifts of munificent princes who have at +all periods shown a predilection for Brussels lace, and in every way +promoted its manufacture. In usage it is termed Point d'Angleterre, an +error explained to us by history. + +PLATE XXXVII. + +[Illustration: BRUSSELS. POINT D'ANGLETERRE À BRIDES. CROWN OF A CAP.--Last +half of seventeenth century. + +The property of Mr. Arthur Blackborne.] + +PLATE XXXVIII. + +[Illustration: FLEMISH. TAPE LACE, BOBBIN-MADE.--Seventeenth century. + +Photos by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 116._ + +{117}In 1662 the English Parliament, alarmed at the sums of money expended +on foreign point, and desirous to protect the English bone-lace +manufacture, passed an Act prohibiting the importation of all foreign lace. +The English lace-merchants, at a loss how to supply the Brussels point +required at the court of Charles II., invited Flemish lace-makers to settle +in England and there establish the manufacture. The scheme, however, was +unsuccessful. England did not produce the necessary flax, and the lace made +was of an inferior quality. The merchants therefore adopted a more simple +expedient. Possessed of large capital, they bought up the choicest laces of +the Brussels market, and then smuggling them over to England, sold them +under the name of point d'Angleterre, or "English Point."[330] + +This fact is, curiously enough, corroborated in a second memorandum given +by the Venetian ambassador to the English Court in 1695, already mentioned +by an informant in London, who states that Venetian point is no longer in +fashion, but "that called English point, which, you know, is not made here, +but in Flanders, and only bears the name of English to distinguish it from +the others." "Questo chiamato punto d'Inghilterra, si sappia che non si fa +qui, ma in Fiandra, et porta solamente questo nome d'Inghilterra per +distintione dagli altri." + +The account of the seizure made by the Marquis de Nesmond of a vessel laden +with Flanders lace, bound for England, in 1678[331] will afford some idea +of the extent to which this smuggling was carried on. The cargo comprised +744,953 ells of lace, without enumerating handkerchiefs, collars, fichus, +aprons, petticoats, fans, gloves, etc., all of the same material. From this +period "point de Bruxelles" became more and more unknown, and was at last +effaced by "point d'Angleterre,"[332] a name it still retains.[333] + +On consulting, however, the English Royal Inventories of {118}the time, we +find no mention of "English point." In France, on the other hand, the +fashion books of the day[334] commend to the notice of the reader, "Corsets +chamarrés de point d'Angleterre," with vests, gloves, and cravats trimmed +with the same material. Among the effects of Madame de Simiane, dated 1681, +were many articles of English point;[335] and Monseigneur the Archbishop of +Bourges, who died some few years later, had two cambric toilettes trimmed +with the same.[336] + +The finest Brussels lace can only be made in the city itself. Antwerp, +Ghent, and other localities have in vain tried to compete with the capital. +The little town of Binche, long of lace-making celebrity, has been the most +successful. Binche, however, now only makes pillow flowers (point plat), +and those of an inferior quality. + +When, in 1756, Mrs. Calderwood visited the Béguinage at Brussels, she wrote +to a friend describing the lace-making. "A part of their work is grounding +lace; the manufacture is very curious. One person works the flowers. They +are all sold separate, and you will see a very pretty sprig, for which the +worker only gets twelve sous. The masters who have all these people +employed give them the thread to make them; this they do according to a +pattern, and give them out to be grounded; after this they give them to a +third hand, who 'hearts' all the flowers with the open work. That is what +makes this lace so much dearer than the Mechlin, which is wrought all at +once."[337] + +The thread used in Brussels lace is of extraordinary fineness. It is made +of flax grown in Brabant, at Hal and Rebecq-Rognon.[338] The finest quality +is spun in dark underground rooms, for contact with the dry air causes the +thread to break, so fine is it as almost to escape the sight. The feel of +the thread as it passes through the fingers is the surest guide. The +thread-spinner closely examines every inch drawn from her distaff, and when +any inequality occurs stops her wheel to repair the mischief. Every +artificial help is given to the eye. A background of dark paper is placed +to throw out the thread, and the room so arranged as to admit one single +ray of light upon the work. The life of a Flemish thread-spinner is +unhealthy, and her work requires the greatest skill; her wages are +therefore proportionably high. + +[Illustration: Fig. 57. + +BRUSSELS NEEDLE-POINT. + +_To face page 118._] + +{119}It is the fineness of the thread which renders the real Brussels +ground (_vrai réseau_, called in Flanders, "droschel") so costly.[339] The +difficulty of procuring this fine thread at any cost prevented the art +being established in other countries. We all know how, during the last +fifty years of the bygone century, a mania existed in the United Kingdom +for improving all sorts of manufactures. The Anti-Gallican Society gave +prizes in London; Dublin and Edinburgh vied with their sister capital in +patriotism. Every man would establish something to keep our native gold +from crossing the water. Foreign travellers had their eyes open, and Lord +Garden, a Scotch Lord of Session, who visited Brussels in 1787, thus writes +to a countryman on the subject: "This day I bought you ruffles and some +beautiful Brussels lace, the most light and costly of all manufactures. I +had entertained, as I now suspect, a vain ambition to attempt the +introduction of it into my humble parish in Scotland, but on inquiry I was +discouraged. The thread is of so exquisite a fineness they cannot make it +in this country. It is brought from Cambrai and Valenciennes in French +Flanders, and five or six different artists are employed to form the nice +part of this fabric, so that it is a complicated {120}art which cannot be +transplanted without a passion as strong as mine for manufactures, and a +purse much stronger. At Brussels, from one pound of flax alone they can +manufacture to the value of £700 sterling." + +There were two kinds of ground used in Brussels lace, the bride and the +réseau. The bride was first employed, but, even a century back,[340] had +been discontinued, and was then only made to order. Nine ells of +"Angleterre à bride" appear in the bills of Madame du Barry.[341] The lace +so made was generally of most exquisite workmanship, as many magnificent +specimens of "bas d'aube,"[342] now converted into flounces, attest. +Sometimes bride and réseau were mixed.[343] In the inventories the +description of ground is always minutely specified.[344] (See Plates +XXXVII., XLVII., XLVIII., XLIX., LI.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 58. + +BRUSSELS NEEDLE-POINT. + +_To face page 120._] + +[Illustration: Fig. 58A. + +BRUSSELS. POINT À L'AIGUILLE.--Formerly belonged to H.M. Queen Charlotte. + +_To face page 120._] + +{121}The réseau was made in two ways,[345] by hand (à l'aiguille), and on +the pillow (au fuseau). The needleground is worked from one flower to +another, as in Fig. 44. The pillow is made in small strips of an inch in +width, and from seven to forty-five inches long, joined together by a +stitch long known to the lace-makers of Brussels and Bayeux only,[346] +called "point de raccroc"--in English, "fine joining"--and consisting of a +fresh stitch formed with a needle between the two pieces to be united. It +requires the greatest nicety to join the segments of shawls and other large +pieces. Since machine-made net has come into use the "vrai réseau" is +rarely made, save for royal trousseaux (Figs. 57 and 58). + +There are two kinds of flowers: those made with the needle are called +"point à l'aiguille"; those on the pillow, "point plat."[347] The best +flowers are made in Brussels itself, where they have attained a perfection +in the relief (point brodé) unequalled by those made in the surrounding +villages and in Hainault. The last have one great fault. Coming soiled from +the hands of the lace-makers, they have a reddish-yellow cast. In order to +obviate this evil the workwoman, previous to sewing the flowers on the +ground, places them in a packet of white lead and beats them with the hand, +an operation injurious to the health of the lace-cleaner. It also causes +the lace to turn black when laid in trunks or wardrobes in contact with +flannel or other woollen tissues bleached with sulphur, which discolours +the white lead. Bottles containing scent, the sea air, or a heated room, +will produce the same disagreeable change, and the colour is with +difficulty restored. This custom of powdering yellow lace is of old date. +We read in 1782[348]: "On tolère en même temps les dentelles jaunes et fort +sales, poudrez-les à blanc pour cacher leur vetusté, dut la fraude +paroître, n'importe, vous avez des dentelles vous êtes bien dispensé de la +propreté mais non du luxe." Mrs. Delany writes in 1734: "Your head and +ruffles are being made up, but Brussels always look yellow;" and she was +right, for flax thread soon returns to its natural "crêmée" hue. Yet, + + "How curled her hair, how clean her Brussels lace!" + +exclaims the poet.[349] Later, the taste for discoloured lace became +general. The "Isabelle" or cream-coloured tint was found to be more +becoming than a dazzling white, and our coquettish grandmothers, who prided +themselves upon the colour of their point, when not satisfied with the +richness of its hue, had their lace dipped in coffee. + +{122}In the old laces the plat flowers were worked in together with the +ground. (Fig. 59.) Application lace was unknown to our ancestors.[350] The +making of Brussels lace is so complicated that each process is, as before +mentioned, assigned to a different hand, who works only at her special +department. The first, termed-- + +1. Drocheleuse (Flemish, drocheles), makes the vrai réseau. + +2. Dentelière (kantwerkes), the footing. + +3. Pointeuse (needlewerkes), the point à l'aiguille flowers. + +4. Platteuse (platwerkes), makes the plat flowers. + +5. Fonneuse (grondwerkes), is charged with the open work (jours) in the +plat. + +6. Jointeuse, or attacheuse (lashwerkes), unites the different sections of +the ground together. + +7. Striqueuse, or appliqueuse (strikes), is charged with the sewing +(application) of the flowers upon the ground. + +The pattern is designed by the head of the fabric, who, having cut the +parchment into pieces, hands it out ready pricked. The worker has no +reflections to make, no combinations to study. The whole responsibility +rests with the master, who selects the ground, chooses the thread, and +alone knows the effect to be produced by the whole. + +The pattern of Brussels lace has always followed the fashion of the day. +The most ancient is in the Gothic style (_Gothique pur_), its architectural +ornaments resembling a pattern cut out in paper. This style was replaced by +the flowing lines which prevailed till the end of the last century. (Fig. +60.) + +In its turn succeeded the _genre fleuri_ of the First Empire, an assemblage +of flowers, sprigs, columns, wreaths, and petits semés, such as spots, +crosses, stars, etc. In flowers, the palm and pyramidal forms predominated. +Under the Restoration the flowery style remained in fashion, but the palms +and pyramids became more rare. Since 1830 great changes have taken place in +the patterns, which every year become more elegant and more artistic. + +[Illustration: Fig. 59. + +OLD BRUSSELS. (Point d'Angleterre. Bobbin-made, circ. 1750.) + +_To face page 122._] + +{123}The lace industry of Brussels is now divided into two branches, the +making of detached sprigs, either point or pillow, for application upon the +net ground, and the modern _point à l'aiguille gazée_, also called point de +Venise, a needlework lace in which the flowers are made simultaneously with +the ground, by means of the same thread, as in the old Brussels. It is made +in small pieces, the joining concealed by small sprigs or leaves, after the +manner of the old point, the same lace-worker executing the whole strip +from beginning to end. Point gaze is now brought to the highest perfection, +and the specimens in the Paris Exhibition of 1867 were remarkable for the +precision of the work, the variety and richness of the "jours," and the +clearness of the ground. + +_Brussels point à l'aiguille, point de gaze_, is the most filmy and +delicate of all point lace. Its forms are not accentuated by a raised +outline of button-hole stitching, as in point d'Alençon and point +d'Argentan, but are simply outlined by a thread. The execution is more open +and slight than in early lace, and part of the _toilé_ is made is close, +part in open stitch, to give an appearance of shading. The style of the +designs is naturalistic. (Plate LII.) + +"Point Duchesse" is a bobbin lace of fine quality, in which the sprigs +resemble Honiton lace united by "brides." Duchesse is a modern name. The +work less resembles the old Brussels laces than the "Guipure de Flandre," +made at Bruges in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, which was much +used for cravats, being exceedingly rich and soft in effect. Bobbin lace is +sometimes named point Plat; the word point in this case signifies the fine +quality of the lace, and has nothing to do with the needle-point. Point +Plat appliqué is the name given to Belgian bobbin-made sprigs which are +afterwards applied to machine-made net. Bobbin lace is not now made in +Brussels itself. + +Brussels was a favoured lace at the court of the First Empire.[351] When +Napoleon and the Empress Marie Louise made their first public entry into +the Belgian capital, they {124}gave large orders for albs of the richest +point, destined as a present for the Pope. The city, on its part, offered +to the Empress a collection of its finest lace, on vrai réseau, of +marvellous beauty; also a curtain of Brussels point, emblematic of the +birth of the King of Rome, with Cupids supporting the drapery of the +cradle. After the battle of Waterloo, Monsieur Troyaux, a manufacturer at +Brussels, stopped his lace fabric, and, having turned it into a hospital +for forty English soldiers, furnished them with linen, as well as other +necessaries, and the attendance of trained nurses. His humane conduct did +not go unrewarded; he received a decoration from his sovereign, while his +shop was daily crowded with English ladies, who then, and for years after, +made a point of purchasing their laces at his establishment when passing +through Brussels. Monsieur Troyaux made a large fortune and retired from +business.[352] + + +MECHLIN. + + "And if disputes of empire rise between + Mechlin, the Queen of Lace, and Colberteen, + 'Tis doubt, 'tis darkness! till suspended Fate + Assumes her nod to close the grand debate." + --Young, _Love of Fame_. + + "Now to another scene give place; + Enter the Folks with silk and lace, + Fresh matter for a world of chat + Right Indian this, right Macklin that." + --Swift, _Journal of a Modern Lady_. + + "Mechlin, the finest lace of all!" + --Anderson, _Origin of Commerce_. + + "Rose: Pray, what may this lace be worth a yard? + "Balance: Right Mechlin, by this light!" + --Farquhar, _The Recruiting Officer_. + +[Illustration: Fig. 60. + +OLD BRUSSELS. (Point d'Angleterre. Formerly belonging to Queen Charlotte.) + +_To face page 124._] + +{125}Mechlin is the prettiest of laces, fine, transparent, and effective. +It is made in one piece, on the pillow, with various fancy stitches +introduced. Its distinguishing feature is the cordonnet or flat silky +thread which outlines the pattern, and gives to this lace the character of +embroidery (hence it is sometimes called Broderie de Malines[353]); and +secondly, the hexagonal mesh of the réseau. "This is made of two threads +twisted twice on four sides, and four threads plaited three times on the +two other sides. Thus the plait is shorter and the mesh consequently +smaller than that of Brussels lace." Mechlin was sometimes grounded with +an ornamental réseau called _Fond de neige_, or _Oeil de perdrix_, and also +with the six-pointed _Fond Chant_; but these varieties are not common. The +earliest Mechlin has the _points d'esprit_, and is very rare. It was made +at Mechlin, Antwerp, Lierre and Turnhout, but the manufacture has long been +on the decline. In 1834 there were but eight houses where it was +fabricated, but at a later date it appears to have partially revived. There +was a fine collection of Mechlin lace in the Paris Exhibition of 1867 from +Turnhout (Prov. Antwerp), and some other localities. Very little is now +manufactured. It is difficult to trace the real point de Malines. Previous +to 1665, as elsewhere stated, all Flanders laces, with some exceptions, +were known to the French commercial world as "Malines." According to +Savary, the laces of Ypres, Bruges, Dunkirk and Courtrai passed at Paris +under that name--hence we have in the inventories of the time, "Malines à +bride,"[354] as well as "Malines à rézeau."[355] + +The statute of Charles II. having placed a bar to the introduction of +Flanders lace into England, Mechlin neither appears in the advertisements +nor inventories of the time. + +We find mention of this fabric in France as early as Anne of Austria, who +is described in the memoirs of Marion {126}de l'Orme as wearing a veil "en +frizette de Malines."[356] Again, the Maréchal de la Motte, who died in +1657, has, noted in his inventory,[357] a pair of Mechlin ruffles. + +Regnard, who visited Flanders in 1681, writes from this city: "The common +people here, as throughout all Flanders, occupy themselves in making the +white lace known as Malines, and the Béguinage, the most considerable in +the country, is supported by the work of the Béguines, in which they excel +greatly."[358] + +When, in 1699, the English prohibition was removed, Mechlin lace became the +grand fashion, and continued so during the succeeding century. Queen Mary +anticipated the repeal by some years, for, in 1694, she purchased two yards +of knotted fringe for her Mechlin ruffles,[359] which leads us to hope she +had brought the lace with her from Holland; though, as early as 1699, we +have advertised in the _London Gazette_, August 17th to 21st: "Lost from +Barker's coach a deal box containing," among other articles, "a waistcoat +and Holland shirt, both laced with Mecklin lace." Queen Anne purchased it +largely; at least, she paid in 1713[360] £247 6s. 9d. for eighty-three +yards, either to one Margaret Jolly or one Francis Dobson, "Millenario +Regali"--the Royal Milliner, as he styles himself. George I. indulges in a +"Macklin" cravat.[361] + +"It is impossible," says Savary about this time, "to imagine how much +Mechlin lace is annually purchased by France and Holland, and in England it +has always held the highest favour." + +Of the beau of 1727 it is said: + + "Right Macklin must twist round his bosom and wrists." + +PLATE XXXIX. + +[Illustration: MECHLIN.--Four specimens of seventeenth and eighteenth +centuries. Arranged by age, the oldest at the top. The upper one is the end +of a lappet, the property of Mr. Arthur Blackborne. Width about 3½ in. +Widths of smaller pieces, 1¾ in., lower 2½ in. + +Photos by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 126._ + +{127}While Captain Figgins of the 67th, a dandy of the first water, is +described, like the naval puppy of Smollett in _Roderick Random_, "his hair +powdered with maréchal, a cambric shirt, his Malines lace dyed with +coffee-grounds." Towards 1755 the fashion seems to have been on the decline +in England. "All the town," writes Mr. Calderwood, "is full of convents; +Mechlin lace is all made there; I saw a great deal, and very pretty and +cheap. They talk of giving up the trade, as the English, upon whom they +depended, have taken to the wearing of French blondes. The lace merchants +employ the workers and all the town with lace. Though they gain but +twopence halfpenny daily, it is a good worker who will finish a Flemish +yard (28 inches) in a fortnight." + +[Illustration: Fig. 61. + +MECHLIN.--(Period Louis XVI.)] + +Mechlin is essentially a summer lace, not becoming in itself, but charming +when worn over colour. It found great favour at the court of the Regent, as +the inventories of the period attest. Much of this lace, judging from these +accounts, was made in the style of the modern insertion, with an edging on +both sides, "campané," and, being light in texture, was well adapted for +the gathered trimmings, later termed[362] "quilles," now better known as +"plissés à la {128}vieille."[363] Mechlin can never have been used as a +"dentelle de grande toilette"; it served for coiffures de nuit, garnitures +de corset, ruffles and cravats.[364] + +Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, describing an admirer, writes: + + "With eager beat his Mechlin cravat moves-- + He loves, I whisper to myself, he loves!" + +[Illustration: Fig. 62. + +MECHLIN.--(Formerly belonging to H. M. Queen Charlotte.)] + +It was the favourite lace of Queen Charlotte (Fig. 62) and of the Princess +Amelia. Napoleon I. was also a great admirer of this fabric, and when he +first saw the light Gothic tracery of the cathedral spire of Antwerp, he +exclaimed, "C'est comme de la dentelle de Malines." + +[Illustration: PLATE XL. + +MECHLIN.--Three specimens of last half of eighteenth century. + +Victoria and Albert Museum. Width, 5 in. + +Photos by A. Dryden from Mrs. Ellis' Collection. Width, 4 ½ in. Width, 4 +in.] + +_To face page 123._ + + +{129}ANTWERP. + + "At Antwerp, bought some ruffles of our agreeable landlady, and set out + at 2 o'clock for Brussels."--_Tour_, by G. L., 1767. + +Before finishing our account of the laces of Brabant, we must touch upon +the produce of Antwerp, which, though little differing from that of the +adjoining towns, seems at one time to have been known in the commercial +world.[365] In the year 1560 we have no mention of lace among the fabrics +of Antwerp, at that period already flourishing, unless it be classed under +the head of "mercery, fine and rare."[366] The cap, however, of an Antwerp +lady[367] of that period is decorated with the fine lace of geometric +pattern. (Fig. 63.) As early as 1698 the _Flying Postman_ advertises as +follows: "Yesterday, was dropped between the Mitre Tavern and the corner of +Princes-street, five yards and better of Antwerp lace, pinner breadth. One +guinea reward." + +According to Savary, much lace without ground, "dentelle sans fond," a +guipure of large flowers united by "brides," was fabricated in all the +towns of Brabant for especial exportation to the Spanish Indies, where the +"Gothic" taste continued in favour up to a very late period. These envoys +{130}were expedited first to Cadiz, and there disposed of. In 1696, we find +in a seizure made by Monsieur de la Bellière, on the high seas, "2181 +pieces de dentelles grossières à l'Espagnole assorties."[368] (Plate XLI.) + +Since the cessation of this Spanish market, Antwerp lace would have +disappeared from the scene had it not been for the attachment evinced by +the old people for one pattern, which has been worn on their caps from +generation to generation, generally known by the name of "pot lace" (potten +kant). It is made in the Béguinages of three qualities, mostly "fond +double." The pattern has always a vase (Fig. 64), varied according to +fancy.[369] Antwerp now makes Brussels lace. + +[Illustration: Fig. 63. + +A LADY OF ANTWERP.--(Ob. 1598. After Crispin de Passe.)] + +One of the earliest pattern-books, that printed by Vorsterman[370]--the +title in English--was published at Antwerp, but it only contains patterns +for Spanish stitch and other embroidery--no lace. There is no date affixed +to the title-page, which is ornamented with six woodcuts representing +women, and one a man, working at frames. This work is most rare; the only +copy known may be found in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris. + +[Illustration: Fig. 64. + +ANTWERP POT LACE (Potten Kant). + +_To face page 130._] + +{131}Turnhout, which with Antwerp and Mechlin form the three divisions of +the modern province of Antwerp, seems to have largely manufactured lace up +to the present century; as we find in 1803, out of forty lace thread and +lace fabrics in the province, there were thirteen at Antwerp, twelve at +Turnhout, and nine at Malines.[371] Turnhout now produces Mechlin. + + +FLANDERS (WEST). + +The most important branch of the pillow-lace trade in Belgium is the +manufacture of Valenciennes, which, having expired in its native city, has +now spread over East and West Flanders. The art was originally imported +into Flanders from French Hainault in the seventeenth century. As early as +1656, Ypres began to make Valenciennes lace. When, in 1684, a census was +made by order of Louis XIV., there were only three forewomen[372] and +sixty-three lace-makers. In 1850, there were from 20,000 to 22,000 in Ypres +and its environs alone. + +The productions of Ypres are of the finest quality and most elaborate in +their workmanship. On a piece not two inches wide, from 200 to 300 bobbins +are employed, and for the larger widths as many as 800 or more are used on +the same pillow. In the exhibition of 1867, one exhibited with the lace in +progress had 1,200 bobbins,[373] while in the International Exhibition of +1874 there were no less than 8,000 bobbins on a Courtrai pillow used for +making a parasol cover. The ground is in large clear squares, which +admirably throws up the even tissue of the patterns. In these there was +little variety until 1833, when a manufacturer[374] adopted a clear +{132}wire ground with bold flowing designs, instead of the thick +_treille_[375] and scanty flowers of the old laces. (Fig. 65.) The change +was accepted by fashion, and the Valenciennes lace of Ypres has now +attained a high degree of perfection. Courtrai has made great advances +towards rivalling Ypres in its productions. + +[Illustration: Fig. 65. + +VALENCIENNES LACE OF YPRES.] + +Not a hundred years since, when the laces of Valenciennes prospered, those +of Belgium were designated as "fausses Valenciennes." Belgium has now the +monopoly to a commercial value of more than £800,000.[376] The other +principal centres of the manufacture are Bruges, Courtrai, and Menin in +West, Ghent and Alost in East, Flanders. When Peuchet wrote in the +eighteenth century, he cites "les dentelles à l'instar de Valenciennes" of +Courtrai as being in favour, and generally sought after both in England and +France, while those of Bruges are merely alluded to as "passing for +Mechlin." From this it may be inferred the tide had not then flowed so far +north. The Valenciennes of Bruges, from its round ground, has never enjoyed +a high reputation. + +PLATE XLI. + +[Illustration: FLEMISH. FLAT SPANISH BOBBIN LACE.--Made in Flanders. +Seventeenth century. + +From a photo the property of A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 132._ + +{133}In forming the ground, the bobbins are only twisted twice, while in +those of Ypres and Alost, the operation is performed four and five +times.[377] The oftener the bobbins are twisted the clearer and more +esteemed is the Valenciennes. The "guipure de Flandres" made at Bruges in +"point plat" is now in high repute, and has proved from its low price a +formidable rival to Honiton, which it resembles, but the workmanship is +coarser and inferior than in the best Honiton. It is of a brilliant white, +and composed of bobbin-made flowers united by _barettes_ or _brides à +picot_. In the _L'Industrie Dentellière Belge_ (1860), it is stated that +West Flanders has now 180 fabrics and 400 lace schools. Of these, 157 are +the property of religious communities, and number upwards of 30,000 +apprentices.[378] + + +FLANDERS (EAST). + +No traveller has passed through the city of Ghent for the last hundred +years without describing the Béguinage and its lace school. "The women," +writes the author of the _Grand Tour_, 1756, "number nigh 5,000, go where +they please, and employ their time in weaving lace." + +Savary cites the "fausses Valenciennes," which he declares to equal the +real in beauty. "They are," continues he, "moins serrées, un peu moins +solides, et un peu moins chères." + +The best account, however, we have of the Ghent manufactures is contained +in a letter addressed to Sir John Sinclair by Mr. Hey Schoulthem in 1815. +"The making of lace," he writes, "at the time the French entered the Low +Countries, employed a considerable number of people of both sexes, and +great activity prevailed in Ghent. The lace was chiefly for daily use; it +was sold in Holland, France and England. A large quantity of 'sorted' laces +of a peculiar quality were exported to Spain and the colonies. It is to be +feared that, after an interruption of twenty years, this lucrative branch +of commerce will be at an end: the changes of fashion have even reached the +West Indian colonists, {134}whose favourite ornaments once consisted of +Flemish laces[379] and fringes. These laces were mostly manufactured in the +charitable institutions for poor girls, and by old women whose eyes did not +permit them to execute a finer work. As for the young girls, the quality of +these Spanish laces, and the facility of their execution, permitted the +least skilful to work them with success, and proved a means of rendering +them afterwards excellent workwomen. At present, the best market for our +laces is in France; a few also are sent to England." He continues to state +that, since the interruption of the commerce with Spain, to which Ghent +formerly belonged, the art has been replaced by a trade in cotton; but that +cotton-weaving spoils the hand of the lace-makers, and, if continued, would +end by annihilating the lace manufacture.[380] + +Grammont and Enghien formerly manufactured a cheap white thread lace, now +replaced by the making of laces of black silk. This industry was introduced +towards 1840 by M. Lepage, and black silk and cotton-thread lace is now +made at Grammont, Enghien, and Oudenarde in the southern part of Eastern +Flanders. The lace of Grammont is remarkable for its regularity, the good +quality of its silk, and its low price, but its grounds are coarse, and the +patterns want relief and solidity, and the bobbins are more often twisted +in making the ground, which deprives it of its elasticity. Grammont makes +no small pieces, but shawls, dresses, etc., principally for the American +market. + +The "industrie dentellière" of East Flanders is now most flourishing. In +1869 it boasted 200 fabrics directed by the laity, and 450 schools under +the superintendence of the nuns. Even in the poor-houses (hospices) every +woman capable of using a bobbin passes her day in lace-making. + + +HAINAULT. + +The laces of Mons and those once known as "les figures de Chimay" both in +the early part of the eighteenth century enjoyed a considerable reputation. +Mrs. Palliser, on visiting Chimay in 1874, could find no traces of the +manufacture beyond an aged lace-maker, an inmate of the hospice, who made +black lace--"point de Paris"--and who said that until lately Brussels lace +had also been made at Chimay. + +PLATE XLII. + +[Illustration: FLEMISH. GUIPURE DE FLANDRE, BOBBIN-MADE.--Seventeenth +century. In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] + +_To face page 134._ + +{135}The first Binche lace has the character of Flanders lace, so it has +been supposed that the women who travelled from Ghent in the train of Mary +of Burgundy, the daughter of Charles le Téméraire, created the taste for +lace at Binche, and that the stay of the great ladies, on their visits to +the royal lady of the manor, made the fortune of the lace-makers. +Afterwards there was much traffic between the lace-workers of Brussels and +Binche, and there is a great resemblance between the laces of the two +towns. Sometimes the latter is less light, richer, and more complex in +effect, and the design is closely sprinkled with open-work, the ground +varied and contrasted. + +Binche was, as early as 1686, the subject of a royal edict, leading one to +infer that the laces it produced were of some importance. In the said +edict, the roads of Verviers, Gueuse, and Le Catelet, to those persons +coming from Binche, are pronounced "faux passages."[381] Savary esteems the +products of this little village. The same laces, he adds, are made in all +the _monastères_ of the province, that are partly maintained by the gains. +The lace is good, equal to that of Brabant and Flanders. The characteristic +peculiarities of Binche are, that there is either no cordonnet at all +outlining the pattern, or that the cordonnet is scarcely a thicker thread +than that which makes the _toilé_.[382] The design itself is very +indefinite, and is practically the same as the early Valenciennes laces. +Varieties of the _fond de neige_ ground were used instead of the regular +_réseau_ ground. Dentelle de Binche appears to have been much in vogue in +the last century. It is mentioned in the inventory of the Duchesse de +Modène,[383] daughter of the Regent, 1761; and in that of Mademoiselle de +Charollais, 1758, who has a "couvrepied, mantelet, garniture de robe, +jupon," etc., all of the same lace. In the _Misérables_ of Victor Hugo, the +old grandfather routs out {136}from a cupboard "une ancienne garniture de +guipure de Binche" for Cosette's wedding-dress.[384] The Binche application +flowers have already been noticed. + +The lace industry of Binche will soon be only a memory. But before 1830 it +"was a hive of lace-makers, and the bees of this hive earned so much money +by making lace that their husbands could go and take a walk without a care +for the morrow," as it is curiously phrased in an account of Binche and its +lace. (Plate XLIII.) + + + +We have now named the great localities for lace-making throughout the Low +Countries. Some few yet remain unmentioned. + +The needle-point of Liège should be mentioned among the Flanders laces. At +the Cathedral of Liège there is still to be seen a flounce of an alb +unequalled for the richness and variety of its design and its perfection. +Liège in her days of ecclesiastical grandeur carried on the lace trade like +the rest.[385] We read, in 1620, of "English Jesuitesses at Liège, who seem +to care as much for politics as for lace-making."[386] + +An early pattern-book, that of Jean de Glen, a transcript of Vinciolo, was +published in that city in 1597. It bears the mark of his +printing-press--three acorns with the motto, "Cuique sua præmia," and is +dedicated to Madame Loyse de Perez. He concludes a complimentary dedication +to the lady with the lines:-- + + "Madame, dont l'esprit modestement subtil, + Vigoureux, se délecte en toutes choses belles, + Prenez de bonne part ces nouvelles modelles + Que vous offre la main de ce maistre gentil." + +He states that he has travelled and brought back from Italy some patterns, +without alluding to Vinciolo. At the end, in a chapter of good advice to +young ladies, after exhorting them to "salutairement passer la journée, +tant pour l'âme que pour le corps," he winds up that he is aware that other +exercises, such as stretching the hands and feet, "se frotter un peu les +points des bras," and combing the hair, are good for the health; that to +wash the hands occasionally in cold water is both "civil et honnête," etc. + +[Illustration: PLATE XLIII. + +BINCHE.--Width, 2-1/8 in.] + +[Illustration: PLATE XLIV. + +BELGIAN, BOBBIN-MADE. + +MARCHE.--End of eighteenth century. In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] + +BELGIAN, BOBBIN-MADE. + +PLATE XLV. + +[Illustration: DRAWN AND EMBROIDERED MUSLIN, resembling fine lace.--Flemish +work. End of eighteenth century. Width, 2½ in., not including the modern +heading. + +Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] + +_To face page 136._ + +{137}"Dentelles de Liège, fines et grosses de toutes sortes," are mentioned +with those of Lorraine and Du Comté (Franche-Comté) in the tariff fixed by +a French edict of September 18th, 1664.[387] Mrs. Calderwood, who visited +Liège in 1756, admires the point-edging to the surplices of the canons, +which, she remarks, "have a very genteel appearance." The manufacture had +declined at Liège, in 1802, when it is classed by the French Commissioners +among the "fabriques moins considérables," and the lace-makers of the Rue +Pierreuse, who made a "garniture étroite"--the "caïeteresses"[388]--had +died out in 1881. The same work is now carried on at Laroche.[389] + +The lace products of St. Trond, in the province of Limburgh, appear by the +report of the French Commission of 1803 to have been of some importance. +Lace, they say, is made at St. Trond, where from 800 to 900 are so +employed, either at their own homes or in the workshops of the +lace-manufacturers. The laces resemble those of Brussels and Mechlin, and +although they have a lesser reputation in commerce, several descriptions +are made, and about 8,000 metres are produced of laces of first quality, +fetching from twelve to fourteen francs the metre. These laces are chiefly +made for exportation, and are sold mostly in Holland and at the Frankfort +fairs. The report concludes by stating that the vicissitudes of war, in +diminishing the demand for objects of luxury, has much injured the trade; +and also suggests that some provisions should be made to stop the abuses +arising from the bad faith of the lace-makers, who often sell the materials +given them to work with.[390][391] + +{138}Many of the Belgian churches have lace among the _trésors d'église_. A +great number of the convents also possess beautiful lace, for girls who +have been educated in them often give their bridal lace, after their +marriage, to the chapel of the convent. + +At Bruges, an ancient turreted house of the fifteenth century, the Gruuthus +mansion, now restored, contains one of the finest collections of lace in +the world--a collection of Flemish laces presented to the town by the +Baroness Liedts. Bruges itself, and the country round, is full of +lace-workers, some working in factories or _ateliers_ at the guipure de +Flandres, others working at the coarse cheap torchon, sitting in the sun by +the quiet canal-sides, or in the stone-cobbled lanes of the old city, where +their house-door opens into a room as dark and narrow as a fox-earth, and +leading a life so poor that English competition in the cheaper forms of +lace is impossible. + +Within the last few years the immense development of the Belgian lace trade +has overthrown the characteristic lace of each city. Lace, white and black, +point and pillow, may at the present time be met with in every province of +the now flourishing kingdom of Belgium.[392] + + + + +{139}CHAPTER VIII. + +FRANCE TO LOUIS XIV. + + "Il est une déesse inconstante, incommode, + Bizarre dans ses goûts, folle en ses ornements, + Qui parait, fuit, revient, et renaît, en tout temps: + Protée était son père, et son nom est la mode."--Voltaire. + + "To-day the French + All clinquant, all in gold."--Shakespeare. + + +To the Italian influences of the sixteenth century France owes the fashion +for points coupés and lace.[393] It was under the Valois and the Médicis +that the luxury of embroidery, laces of gold, silver, and thread, attained +its greatest height, and point coupé was as much worn at that epoch, as +were subsequently the points of Italy and Flanders. + +Ruffs and cuffs, according to Quicherat, first appeared in France in 1540. +The ruff or fraise, as it was termed from its fancied resemblance to the +caul[394] or frill of the calf, first {140}adopted by Henry II. to conceal +a scar, continued in favour with his sons. The Queen-mother herself wore +mourning from the day of the King's death; no decoration therefore appears +upon her wire-mounted ruff,[395] but the fraises of her family and the +_escadron volante_ are profusely trimmed with the geometric work of the +period, and the making of laces and point coupé was the favourite +employment of her court. It is recorded that the girls and servants of her +household consumed much time in making squares of _réseuil_, and Catherine +de Médicis had a bed draped with these squares of _réseuil_ or _lacis_. +Catherine encouraged dress and extravagance, and sought by brilliant fêtes +to turn people's minds from politics. In this she was little seconded +either by her husband or gloomy son, King Charles; but Henry III. and his +"mignons frisés et fraisés" were tricked out in garments of the brightest +colours--toques and toquets, pearl necklaces and earrings. The ruff was the +especial object of royal interest. With his own hand he used the +poking-sticks and adjusted the plaits. "Gaudronneur des collets de sa +femme" was the soubriquet bestowed on him by the satirists of the day.[396] + +By 1579 the ruffs of the French court had attained such an outrageous size, +"un tiers d'aulne,"[397] in depth that the wearers could scarcely turn +their heads.[398] "Both men and women wore them intolerably large, being a +quarter of a yard deep and twelve lengths in a ruff," writes Stone. In +London the fashion was termed the "French ruff"; in France, on the other +hand, it was the "English monster." Blaise de Viginière describes them as +"gadrooned like organ-pipes, contorted or crinkled like cabbages, and as +big as the sails of a windmill." So absurd was the effect, the +{141}journalist of Henry III.[399] declares "they looked like the head of +John the Baptist in a charger." + +Nor could they eat so encumbered. It is told how Reine Margot one day, when +seated at dinner, was compelled to send for a spoon with a handle two feet +in length wherewith to eat her soup.[400] These monstrosities, "so +stiffened that they cracked like paper,"[401] found little favour beyond +the precincts of the Louvre. They were caricatured by the writers of the +day; and when, in 1579, Henry III. appeared thus attired at the fair of St. +Germain, he was met by a band of students decked out in large paper cuffs, +shouting, "À la fraise on connoit le veau"--for which impertinence the King +sent them to prison.[402] Suddenly, at the Court of Henry, the fraise gave +way to the rabat, or turn-down collar.[403] In vain were sumptuary edicts +issued against luxury.[404] The court set a bad example; and in 1577, at +the meeting of the States of Blois, Henry wore on his own dress four +thousand yards of pure gold lace. His successor, Henry IV., issued several +fresh ordinances[405] against "clinquants [406] et dorures." Touching the +last, Regnier, the satirist, writes:-- + + "A propos, on m'a dit + Que contre les clinquants le roy faict un edict."[407] + +Better still, the King tried the effect of example: he wore a coat of grey +cloth with a doublet of taffety, without either {142}trimming or lace--a +piece of economy little appreciated by the public. His dress, says an +author, "sentait des misères de la Ligue." Sully, anxious to emulate the +simplicity of the King, laughed at those "qui portoient leurs moulins et +leurs bois de haute futaie sur leurs dos."[408] "It is necessary," said he, +"to rid ourselves of our neighbours' goods, which deluge the country." So +he prohibited, under pain of corporal punishment, any more dealings with +the Flemish merchants. + +But edicts failed to put down point coupé; Reine Margot, Madame Gabrielle, +and Bassompierre were too strong for him. + +The Wardrobe Accounts of Henry's first queen are filled with entries of +point coupé and "passements à l'aiguille";[409] and though Henry usually +wore the silk-wrought shirts of the day,[410] we find in the inventory of +his wife one entered as trimmed with cut-work.[411] Wraxall declares to +have seen exhibited at a booth on the Boulevart de Bondy, the shirt worn by +Henry when assassinated. "It is ornamented," he writes, "with a broad lace +round the collar and breast. The two wounds inflicted by the assassin's +knife are plainly visible."[412] + +PLATE XLVI. + +[Illustration: RUFF, EDGED WITH LACE.--In the Musée de Cluny, Paris.] + +_To face page 142._ + +{143}In the inventory[413] made at the death of Madame Gabrielle, the fair +Duchesse de Beaufort, we find entered sleeves and towels of point couppé, +with fine handkerchiefs, gifts of the King to be worn at court, of such an +extraordinary value that Henry requires them to be straightway restored to +him. In the same list appears the duchess's bed of ivory,[414] with +hangings for the room of rézeuil.[415] + +The Chancellor Herault,[416] who died at the same period, was equally +extravagant in his habits; while the shirts of the combatants in the duel +between M. de Crequy and Don Philippe de Savoie are specially vaunted as +"toutes garnies du plus fin et du plus riche point coupé qu'on eust pu +trouver dans ce temps là, auquel le point de Gennes et de Flandres +n'estoient pas en usage."[417] + +The enormous collarette, rising behind her head like a {144}fan, of Mary de +Médicis, with its edgings of fine lace, are well known to the admirers of +Rubens:-- + + "Cinq colets de dentelle haute de demy-piè + L'un sur l'autre montez, qui ne vont qu'a moitié + De celuys de dessus, car elle n'est pas leste, + Si le premier ne passe une paulme la teste."[418] + +On the accession of Louis XIII, luxury knew no bounds. The Queen Regent was +magnificent by nature, while Richelieu, anxious to hasten the ruin of the +nobles, artfully encouraged their prodigality. But Mary was compelled to +repress this taste for dress. The courtiers importuned her to increase +their pensions, no longer sufficient for the exigencies of the day. The +Queen, at her wits' end, published in 1613 a "Réglement pour les +superfluités des habits," prohibiting all lace and embroidery.[419] + +France had early sent out books of patterns for cut-work and lace. That of +Francisque Pelegrin was published at Paris in the reign of Francis I. Six +were printed at Lyons alone. The four earlier have no date,[420] the two +others bear those of 1549[421] and 1585.[422] It was to these first that +Vinciolo so contemptuously alludes in his dedication, "Aux Benevolles +Lecteurs," saying, "Si les premiers ouvrages que vous avez vus out engendré +quelque fruit et utilité je m'assure que les miens en produiront +davantage." Various editions of Vinciolo were printed at Paris from 1587 to +1623; the earlier dedicated to Queen Louise de Lorraine; a second to +Catherine de Bourbon, sister of Henry IV.; the last to Anne of Austria. The +_Pratique de Leguille de Milour M. Mignerak_ was published by the same +printer, 1605; and we have another work, termed _Bèle Prerie_, also printed +at Paris, bearing date 1601.[423] + +The points of Italy and Flanders now first appear at court, and the Church +soon adopted the prevailing taste for the decoration of her altars and her +prelates.[424] + +PLATE XLVII. + +[Illustration: BRUSSELS. FLOUNCE, BOBBIN-MADE.--Late seventeenth century. +Given by Madame de Maintenon to Fénélon, Archbishop of Cambrai. Now in the +Victoria and Albert Museum. + +Height, 2 ft. 2 in.] + +_To face page 146._ + +{145}The ruff is finally discarded and replaced by the "col rabattu," with +its deep-scalloped border of point. The "manchettes à revers" are trimmed +in the same manner, and the fashion even extends to the tops of the boots. +Of these lace-trimmed boots the favourite, Cinq-Mars, left three hundred +pairs at his death, 1642. From his portrait, after Lenain, which hangs in +the Gallery of Versailles, we give one of these boots (Fig. 66), and his +rich collerette of Point de Gênes (Fig. 67). + +[Illustration: Fig. 66. + +CINQ-MARS.--(M. de Versailles.)] + +The garters, now worn like a scarf round the knee, have the ends adorned +with point. A large rosette of lace completes the costume of the epoch +(Fig. 68). + +{146}Gold lace shared the favour of the thread fabric on gloves,[425] +garters and shoes.[426] + + "De large taftas la jartière parée + Aux bouts de demy-pied de dentelle dorée."[427] + +The cuffs, collars of the ladies either falling back or rising behind their +shoulders in double tier, caps, aprons descending to their feet (Fig. 69), +are also richly decorated with lace. + +[Illustration: Fig. 67. + +CINQ-MARS.--(After his portrait by Le Nain. M. de Versailles.)] + +The contemporary engravings of Abraham Bosse and Callot faithfully portray +the fashions of this reign. In the Prodigal Son, of Abraham Bosse, the +mother, waiting his {147}return, holds out to her repentant boy a collar +trimmed with the richest point. The Foolish Virgins weep in lace-trimmed +handkerchiefs, and the table-cloth of the rich man, as well as his +dinner-napkins, are similarly adorned. Again, the Accouchée recovers in a +cap of Italian point under a coverlet of the same. At the Retour de +Baptême, point adorns the christening-dress of the child and the surplice +of the priest. + +When, in 1615, Louis XIII. married Anne of Austria, the collerettes of the +Queen-Mother were discarded--the reign of Italy was at an end--all was now +à l'éspagnole and the court of Castile. + +[Illustration: Fig. 68. + +LACE ROSE AND GARTER.--(After Abraham Bosse.)] + +The prodigality of the nobles[428] having called down royal ordinances on +their heads,[429] these new edicts bring forth {148}fresh satires, in which +the author deplores the prohibition of cut-work and lace:-- + + "Ces points couppez, passemens et dentelles, + Las! que venaient de l'Isle et de Bruxelles, + Sont maintenant descriez, avilis, + Et sans faveur gisent ensevelis;"[430] + +but + + "Pour vivre heureux et à la mode + Il faut que chacun accommode + Ses habits aux editz du roi." + +[Illustration: Fig. 69. + +YOUNG LADY'S APRON, TIME OF HENRY III.--(After Gaignières. Bib. Nat. +Grav.)] + +Edict now follows on edict.[431] One known as the Code Michaud, entering +into the most minute regulations for the toilet, especially excited the +risibility of the people. It was never carried out. The caricatures of this +period are admirable: one represents a young courtier fresh rigged in his +{149}plain-bordered linen, according to the ordinance. His _valet de +chambre_ is about to lock up his laced suit:-- + + "C'est avec regret que mon maître + Quitte ses beaux habillemens + Semés de riches passemens."[432] + +Another engraving of Abraham Bosse shows a lady of fashion with her lace +discarded and dressed in plain linen cuffs and collar:-- + + "Quoique l'âge assez de beauté + Pour asseurer sans vanité + Qu'il n'est point de femme plus belle + Il semble pourtant, à mes yeux, + Qu'avec de l'or et la dantelle + Je m'ajuste encore bien mieux." + +Alluding to the plain-bordered collars now ordered by the prohibition of +1639, the "Satyrique de la Court" sings:-- + + "Naguères l'on n'osoit hanter les damoiselles + Que l'on n'eust le colet bien garni de dentelles; + Maintenant on se rit et se moque de ceux là + Qui desirent encore paroistre avec cela. + Les fraises et colets à bord sont en usage, + Sans faire mention de tous en dentellage." + +France at this time paying large sums to Italy and Flanders for lace, the +wearing of it is altogether prohibited, under pain of confiscation and a +fine of 6,000 livres.[433] The Queen-Mother, regardless of edicts, has over +_passements d'or_ and all sorts of forbidden articles, "pour servir à la +layette que sa majesté à envoyé en Angleterre."[434] Within scarce one year +of each other passed away Marie de Médicis, Richelieu, and Louis XIII. The +King's effigy was exposed on its "lit de parade vêtue d'une chemise de +toile de Hollande avec de tres belles dantelles de point de Gennes au +collet et aux manches."[435]--So say the chroniclers. + + + + +{150}CHAPTER IX. + +LOUIS XIV. + + +The courtiers of the Regency under Anne of Austria vied with the Frondeurs +in extravagance. The latter, however, had the best of it. "La Fronde," +writes Joly, "devint tellement à la mode qu'il n'y avoit rien de bien fait +qu'on ne dist être de la Fronde. Les étoffes, les dentelles, etc., jusqu'au +pain,--rien n'estoit ni bon, ni bien si n'estoit à la Fronde."[436] + +Nor was the Queen Regent herself less profuse in her indulgence in lace. +She is represented in her portraits with a berthe of rich point, her +beautiful hand encircled by a double-scalloped cuff (Fig. 70). The +boot-tops had now reached an extravagant size. One writer compares them to +the farthingales of the ladies, another to an inverted torch. The lords of +the Regent's court filled up the apertures with two or three rows of Genoa +point (Fig. 71). + +In 1653,[437] we find Mazarin, while engaged in the siege of a city, +holding a grave correspondence with his secretary Colbert concerning the +purchase of some points from Flanders, Venice, and Genoa. He considers it +advisable to advance thirty or forty thousand livres "à ces achapts," +adding, that by making the purchases in time he will derive great advantage +in the price; but as he hopes the siege will soon be at an end, they may +wait his arrival at Paris for his final decision.[438] + +PLATE XLVIII. + +[Illustration: BRUSSELS. BOBBIN-MADE.--Period Louis XIV., 1643-1715. + +In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] + +PLATE XLIX. + +[Illustration: BRUSSELS. POINT D'ANGLETERRE À RÉSEAU.--Eighteenth century. +Widths, 2 in. and 3½ in. + +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 150._ + +{151}[Illustration: Fig. 70. + +ANNE OF AUSTRIA.--(M. de Versailles.)] + +Colbert again writes, November 25th, pressing his Eminence on account of +the "quantité de mariages qui se feront l'hyver." A passage in Tallemant +des Réaux would lead one to suppose these laces were destined as patterns +for the improvement of French manufactures. "Per mostra di farne in +Francia," as the Cardinal expressed himself. Certainly in the inventory of +Mazarin[439] there are no mention of Italian points, no lace coverlets to +his "Lict d'ange moire tabizée, couleur de rose chamarrée de {152}dentelles +d'or et d'argent." We may almost imagine that the minister and his +secretary combined were already meditating the establishment of Points de +France. + +In this reign, fresh sumptuary ordinances are issued. That of November +27th, 1660, is the most important of all,[440] and is highly commended by +Sganarelle in the "Ecole des Maris" of Molière which appeared the following +year:-- + + "Oh! trois et quatre fois soit béni cet édit, + Par qui des vêtemens le luxe est interdit; + Les peines des maris ne seront pas si grandes, + Et les femmes auront un frein à leurs demandes. + Oh! que je sais au roi bon gré de ses décrets; + Et que, pour le repos de ces mêmes maris, + Je voudrais bien qu'on fit de la coquetterie + Comme de la guipure et de la broderie." + +[Illustration: Fig. 71. + +A COURTIER OF THE REGENCY.--(After Abraham Bosse.)] + +This ordinance, after prohibiting all foreign "passemens, points de Gênes, +points coupés," etc., or any French laces or passements exceeding an inch +in width, allows the use of the "collerettes and manchettes" persons +already possess for the space of one year, after which period they are only +to be trimmed with a lace made in the kingdom, not exceeding an {153}inch +in width. The ordinance then goes on to attack the "canons," which it +states have been introduced into the kingdom, with "un excès de dépense +insupportable, par la quantité de passemens, points de Venise et Gênes," +with which they are loaded.[441] Their use of them is now entirely +prohibited, unless made of plain linen or of the same stuff as the coat, +without lace or any ornament. The lace-trimmed "canons" of Louis XIV., as +represented in the picture of his interview with Philip IV., in the Island +of Pheasants, previous to his marriage, 1660 (Fig. 72), give a good idea of +these extravagant appendages. These + + "Canons à trois étages + A leurs jambes faisoient d'ombrages."[442] + +And, what was worse, they would cost 7,000 livres a pair. "At the Court of +France," writes Savinière, "people think nothing of buying rabats, +manchettes, or canons to the value of 13,000 crowns."[443] These canons, +with their accompanying rheingraves, which after the prohibition of Venice +point were adorned with the new productions of France, suddenly +disappeared. In 1682, the _Mercure_ announces, "Les canons et les +rheingraves deviennent tout à fait hors de mode." + +At the marriage of the young King with the Infanta, 1660, black lace,[444] +probably in compliment to the Spanish[445] {154}court, came into favour, +the nobles of the King's suite wearing doublets of gold and silver brocade, +"ornés," says the _Chronique_,[446] "de dentelles noires d'un point +recherché."[447] The same writer, describing the noviciate of La Vallière +at the Carmelites, writes, "Les dames portoient des robes de brocard d'or, +d'argent, ou d'azur, par dessus lesquelles elles avoient jetées d'autres +robes et dentelles noires transparentes."[448] Under Louis XIV., the gold +and silver points of Spain and Aurillac rivalled the thread fabrics of +Flanders and Italy; but towards the close of the century,[449] we are +informed, they have fallen from fashion into the "domaine du vulgaire." + +The ordinance of 1660 had but little effect, for various others are issued +in the following years with the oft-repeated prohibitions of the points of +Genoa and Venice.[450] But edicts were of little avail. No royal command +could compel people to substitute the coarse inferior laces of France[451] +for the fine artistic productions of her sister countries. Colbert +therefore wisely adopted another expedient. He determined to develop the +lace-manufacture of France, and to produce fabrics which should rival the +coveted points of Italy and Flanders, so that if fortunes were lavished +upon these luxuries, at all events the money should not be sent out of the +kingdom to procure them. + +He therefore applied to Monseigneur de Bonzy, Bishop of Béziers, then +Ambassador at Venice, who replied that in Venice "all the convents and poor +families make a living out of this lace-making." In another letter he +writes to the minister, "Je vois que vous seriez bien aise d'establir dans +le royaume la manufacture des points de Venise, ce qui se pourrait faire en +envoyant d'icy quelques filles des meilleures ouvrières qui pussent +instruire celles de France avec le temps."[452] + +[Illustration: Fig. 72. + +CANONS OF LOUIS XIV.--(M. de Versailles, 1660.) + +_To face page 154._] + +{155}Monseigneur de Bonzy's suggestion was accepted, and a few years later +(1673) Colbert writes to M. le Comte d'Avaux, who succeeded M. de Bonzy as +ambassador at Venice: "I have gladly received the collar of needlepoint +lace worked in relief that you have sent me, and I find it very beautiful. +I shall have it compared with those new laces being made by our own +lace-makers, although I may tell you beforehand that as good specimens are +now made in this kingdom."[453] Alençon, an old lace-making centre, was +chosen as the seat of the new manufacture.[454] Favier-Duboulay writes to +Colbert that, before the introduction of the new points de France, +lace-making was to the peasants "une manne, et une vraie bénédiction du +ciel, qui s'est espandue sur tout ce pays." The art had spread far and wide +through the district about Alençon; children of seven years of age and aged +men earned their daily bread by it, and the shepherdesses worked at their +lace while herding their flocks. + +{156}[Illustration: Fig. 73. + +CHÂTEAU DE LONRAI, DÉP. ORNE.] + +M. Odolent Desnos gives the following account of the invention and +establishment of point d'Alençon:--[455] + +"In 1665, at the recommendation of the Sieur Ruel, he (Colbert) selected a +Madame Gilbert, a native of Alençon, already acquainted with the manner of +making Venice point, and making her an advance of 50,000 crowns, +established her at his château of Lonrai (Fig. 73), near Alençon, with +thirty forewomen, whom he had, at great expense, caused to be brought over +from Venice. In a short time Madame Gilbert arrived at Paris with the first +specimens of her fabric. The king, inspired by Colbert with a desire to see +the work, during supper at Versailles announced to his courtiers he had +just established a manufacture of point more beautiful than that of Venice, +and appointed a day when he would inspect the specimens. The laces were +artistically arranged over the walls of a room hung with crimson damask, +and shown to the best advantage. The king expressed himself delighted. He +ordered a large sum to be given to Madame Gilbert, and desired that no +other lace should appear at court except the new fabric, upon which he +bestowed the name of point de France.[456] Scarcely had Louis retired than +the courtiers eagerly stripped the room of its contents. The approval of +the monarch was the fortune of Alençon: point de France adopted by court +etiquette, the wearing of it became compulsory. All who had the privilege +of the 'casaque bleue'--all who were received at Versailles or were +attached to the royal household, could only appear, the ladies in trimmings +and headdresses, the gentlemen in ruffles and cravats of the royal +manufacture." + +PLATE L. + +[Illustration: CHENILLE RUN ON A BOBBIN GROUND.--Taken from an early +eighteenth century Court dress, and typical of a French dress passementerie +of that date. About half size.] + +PLATE LI. + +[Illustration: BRUSSELS. BOBBIN-MADE.--Early eighteenth century. Width, 3 +in. Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] + +_To face page 156._ + +{157}Unfortunately for this story, the Château de Lonrai came into the +family of Colbert fourteen years after the establishment of the +lace-industry at Alençon,[457] and the name of Gilbert is not found in any +of the documents relating to the establishment of point de France, nor in +the correspondence of Colbert.[458] + +An ordinance of August 5th, 1665, founded upon a large scale the +manufacture of points de France,[459] with an exclusive privilege for ten +years and a grant of 36,000 {158}francs. A company was formed,[460] its +members rapidly increased, and in 1668 the capital amounted to 22,000 +livres. Eight directors were appointed at salaries of 12,000 livres a year +to conduct the manufacture, and the company held its sittings in the Hôtel +de Beaufort at Paris. The first distribution of profits took place in +October, 1669, amounting to fifty per cent. upon each share. In 1670 a +fresh distribution took place, and 120,000 livres were divided among the +shareholders. That of 1673 was still more considerable. In 1675 the ten +years' privilege ceased, the money was returned, and the rest of the +profits divided. Colbert likewise set up a fabric at the Château de Madrid, +built by Francis I., on the Bois de Boulogne. Such was the origin of point +lace in France. + +The difficulties met by Colbert in establishing his manufactories can only +be estimated by reading his correspondence, in which there are no less than +fifty letters on the subject. The apathy of the town authorities and the +constant rebellions of the lace-workers who preferred their old stitch were +incessant sources of trouble to him, but eventually Colbert's plan was +crowned with success. He established a lucrative manufacture which brought +large sums of money into the kingdom[461] instead of sending it out. Well +might he say that[462] "Fashion was to France what the mines of Peru were +to Spain."[463] + +{159}Boileau alludes to the success of the minister in his "Epistle to +Louis XIV":-- + + "Et nos voisins frustrés de ces tributs serviles + Que payait à leur art le luxe de nos villes."[464] + +The point de France supplanted that of Venice,[465] but its price confined +its use to the rich, and when the wearing of lace became general those who +could not afford so costly a production replaced it by the more moderate +pillow-lace. This explains the great extension of the pillow-lace +manufacture at this period--the production did not suffice for the demand. +Encouraged by the success of the royal manufactures, lace fabrics started +up in various towns in the kingdom. The number of lace-workers increased +rapidly. Those of the towns being insufficient, they were sought for in the +surrounding country, and each town became the {160}centre of a trade +extending round it in a radius of several miles, the work being given out +from the manufactory to be executed by the cottagers in their own +homes.[466] + + + + +{161}CHAPTER X. + +LOUIS XIV.--_continued_. + + "Tout change: la raison change aussi de méthode; + Écrits, habillemens, systèmes: tout est mode." + Racine fils, _Epître à Rousseau_. + + +Point de France continued to be worn in the greatest profusion during the +reign of Louis XIV. The King affected his new-born fabric much as monarchs +of the present day do their tapestries and their porcelains. It decorated +the Church and her ministers. Ladies offered "tours de chaire à l'église de +la paroisse."[467] Albs, "garnies d'un grand point de France brodé +antique";[468] altar-cloths trimmed with Argentan[469] appear in the church +registers.[470] In a painting at Versailles, by Rigaud, representing the +presentation of the Grand Dauphin to his royal father, 1668, the infant is +enveloped in a mantle of the richest point (Fig. 74); and point de France +was selected by royal command to trim the sheets of holland used at the +ceremony of his "nomination."[471] At the marriage of the Prince de Conti +and of Mademoiselle de Blois the toilette[472] presented {162}by the King +was "garnie de point de France si haut qu'on ne voyait point de +toile."[473] The valance, too, and the coverlet of the bed were of the same +material.[474] + +In this luxury, however, England followed her sister kingdom, for we read +in the _Royal Magazine_ of 1763 that on the baptism of the young prince, +afterwards Duke of York, the company went to the council chamber at St. +James's, where a splendid bed was set up for the Queen to sit on, the +counterpane of which is described as of inimitable workmanship, the lace +alone costing £3,783 sterling.[475] "What princes do themselves, they +engage others to do," says Quintilian, and the words of the critic were, in +this case, fully verified: jupes,[476] corsets, mantles, aprons with their +bibs,[477] shoes,[478] gloves,[479] even the fans were now trimmed with +point de France.[480] + +At the audience given by the Dauphine to the Siamese ambassadors, "à ses +relevailles," she received them in a bed "presque tout couvert d'un tres +beau point de France, sur lesquels on avoit mis des riches carreaux."[481] +On the occasion of their visit to Versailles, Louis, proud of his fabric, +presented the ambassadors with cravats and ruffles of the finest +point.[482] These cravats were either worn of point, in one piece, or +partly of muslin tied, with falling lace ends.[483] (Fig. 75.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 74. + +LE GRAND BÉBÉ. (M. de Versailles.) + +_To face page 162._] + +{163}In 1679 the king gave a fête at Marly to the élite of his brilliant +court. When, at sunset, the ladies retired to repair their toilettes, +previous to the ball, each found in her dressing-room a robe fresh and +elegant, trimmed with point of the most exquisite texture, a present from +that gallant monarch not yet termed "l'inamusable." + +Nor was the Veuve Scarron behind the rest. When, in 1674, she purchased the +estate from which she afterwards derived her title of Maintenon, anxious to +render it productive, she enticed Flemish workers from the frontier to +establish a lace manufacture upon her newly-acquired marquisate. How the +fabric succeeded history does not relate, but the costly laces depicted in +her portraits (Fig. 76) have not the appearance of home manufacture. + +[Illustration: Fig. 75. + +LOUVOIS. 1691.--(From his statue by Girardon. M. de Versailles.)] + +Point lace-making became a favourite employment among ladies. We have many +engravings of this reign; one, 1691, of a "fille de qualité" thus occupied, +with the motto, "Apres {164}dîner vous travaillez au point." Another,[484] +an engraving of Le Paultre, dated 1676, is entitled "Dame en Déshabille de +Chambre" (Fig. 77). + +"La France est la tête du monde" (as regards fashion), says Victor Hugo, +"cyclope dont Paris est l'oeil"; and writers of all ages seem to have been +of the same opinion. It was about the year 1680 that the + + "Mode féconde en mille inventions, + Monstre, prodige étrange et difforme," + +was suddenly exemplified in France. + +[Illustration: Fig. 76. + +MADAME DE MAINTENON.--(From her portrait. M. de Versailles.)] + +All readers of this great reign will recall to mind the story of the +"Fontanges." How in the hurry of the chase the locks of the royal favourite +burst from the ribbon that bound them--how the fair huntress, hurriedly +tying the lace kerchief round her head, produced in one moment a coiffure +so light, so artistic, that Louis XIV., enchanted, prayed her to retain it +for that night at court. The lady obeyed the royal command. This mixture of +lace and ribbon, now worn for the first time, caused a sensation, and the +next day all {165}the ladies of the court appeared "coiffées à la +Fontange." (See Madame du Lude, Fig. 79.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 77. + +A LADY IN MORNING DÉSHABILLE.--(From an engraving by Le Paultre. 1676.)] + +But this head-dress, with its tiers of point mounted on wires,[485] soon +ceased to be artistic; it grew higher and higher. Poets and satirists +attacked the fashion much as they did the high head-dresses of the Roman +matrons more than a thousand years ago.[486] Of the extinction of this mode +{166}we have various accounts, some asserting it to have been preached down +by the clergy, as were the _hennins_ in the time of Charles VI.; but the +most probable story is that which relates how, in October, 1699, Louis XIV. +simply observed, "Cette coiffure lui paroissoit désagréable." The ladies +worked all night, and next evening, at the Duchess of Burgundy's +reception,[487] appeared for the first time in a low head-dress. +Fashion,[488] which the author of the before-quoted _Consolation_ would +call _pompeux_, was "aujourd'hui en reforme." Louis XIV. never appreciated +the sacrifice; to the day of his death he persisted in saying, "J'ai eu +beau crier contre les coiffures trop hautes." No one showed the slightest +desire to lower them till one day there arrived "une inconnue, une guenille +d'Angleterre" (Lady Sandwich, the English Ambassadress!!), "avec une petite +coiffure basse--tout d'un coup, toutes les princesses vont d'une extrémité +a l'autre."[489] Be the accusation true or not, the _Mercure_ of November, +1699, announces that "La hauteur des anciennes coiffures commence á +paroître ridicule"; and St. Simon, in his _Memoirs_, satirises the fontange +as a "structure of brass wire, ribbons, hair, and baubles of all sorts, +about two feet high, which made a woman's face look as if it were in the +middle of her body." + +In these days lace was not confined to Versailles and the Court.[490] + +"Le gentilhomme," writes Capefigue, "allait au feu en manchettes poudré à +la maréchale, les eaux se senteur sur son mouchoir en point d'Angleterre, +l'élégance n'a jamais fait tort au courage, et la politesse s'allie +noblement à la bravoure." + +But war brings destruction to laces as well as finances, {167}and in 1690 +the loyal and noble army was found in rags. Then writes Dangeau: "M. de +Castanaga, à qui M. de Maine et M. de Luxembourg avoient demandé un +passeport pour fair venir des dentelles à l'armée, a refusé le passeport, +mais il a envoyé des marchands qui ont porté pour dix mille écus de +dentelles, et après qu'on les eut achetées, les marchands s'en retournèrent +sans vouloir prendre d'argent, disant qu'ils avoient cet ordre de M. de +Castanaga." + +"J'avois une Steinkerque de Malines," writes the Abbé de Choisy, who always +dressed in female attire. We hear a great deal about these Steinkirks at +the end of the seventeenth century. It was a twisted lace necktie, and owed +its origin to the battle of that name in 1692,[491] when the young French +Princes of the Blood were suddenly ordered into action. Hastily tying their +lace cravats--in peaceful times a most elaborate proceeding--they rushed to +the charge, and gained the day. In honour of this event, both ladies and +cavaliers wore their handkerchiefs knotted or twisted in this careless +fashion. + + "Je trouve qu'en été le Steinkerque est commode, + J'aime le falbala,[492] quoiqu'il soit critiqué," + +says somebody. Steinkirks became the rage, and held good for many years, +worn alike in England[493] and France by the women and the men. Fig. 78 +represents the Grand Dauphin in his "longue Steinkerque à replis +tortueux";[494] Fig. 79 the Duchesse du Lude[495] in similar costume and +high Fontange, both copied from prints of the time. + +We find constant mention now of the fashion of wearing a lace ruffle to the +ladies' sleeves, concerning the wearing of which "à deux rangs," or "à +trois rangs," there was much etiquette. + +The falbalas were not given up until after the Regency; the use of them was +frequently carried to such an excess {168}that a caricaturist of that +period drew a lady so enveloped in them that she "looked like a turkey +shaking its feathers and spreading its comb." This caricature gave rise to +a popular song called "La Dinde aux Falbalas"; but in despite of song and +caricature, the flounce continued in popularity. + +"Les manches plates se font de deux tiers de tour, avec une dentelle de fil +de point fort fin et fort haut. On nomme ces manches Engageantes."[496] + +This fashion, though introduced in 1688, continued in vogue till the French +Revolution. We see them in the portrait of Madame Palatine, mother of the +Regent (Fig. 80), and in that of Madame Sophie de France, daughter of Louis +XV., taken in 1782 by Drouais. + +[Illustration: Fig. 78. + +LE GRAND DAUPHIN EN STEINKERQUE.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 79. + +MADAME DU LUDE EN STEINKERQUE. + +_To face page 168._] + +{169}[Illustration: Fig. 80. + +MADAME PALATINE (ELIZ. CHARLOTTE DE BAVIÈRE), DUCHESSE D'ORLÉANS. + +(By Rigaud. M. de Versailles.)] + +Before finishing with point de France, we must allude to the équipage de +bain, in which this fabric formed a great item. As early as 1688, Madame de +Maintenon presents Madame de Chevreuse with an "équipage de bain de point +de France" of great magnificence. It consisted not only of a peignoir, but +a broad flounce, which formed a valance round the bath itself. You can see +them in old engravings of the day. Then there were the towels and the +_descente_, all equally costly,[497] for the French ladies of the +seventeenth and eighteenth centuries admitted their _habitués_ not only to +the _ruelle_,[498] but also to the bath-room.[499] In the latter case the +bath {170}was _au lait_, _i.e._, clouded by the mixture of some essence. +"Aux autres temps, autres moeurs." + +The "fameuse poupée" of the reign of Louis XIV. must not be forgotten. The +custom of dressing up these great dolls originated in the salons of the +Hôtel Rambouillet, where one, termed "la grande Pandore," at each change of +fashion was exhibited "en grand tenue"; a second, the little Pandore, in +morning _déshabille_. These dolls were sent to Vienna and Italy, charged +with the finest laces France could produce. As late as 1764 we read in the +_Espion Chinois_, "Il a débarqué à Douvres un grand nombre de poupées de +hauteur naturelle habillées à la mode de Paris, afin que les dames de +qualité puissent régler leurs goûts sur ces modèles."[500] Even when +English ports were closed in war-time, a special permission was given for +the entry of a large alabaster doll four feet high, the Grand Courrier de +la Mode.[501] In the war of the First Empire this privilege was refused to +our countrywomen; and from that time Englishwomen, deprived of all French +aid for a whole generation, began to dress badly. Pitt has much to answer +for. With this notice finishes our account of the reign of Louis XIV. + +PLATE LII. + +[Illustration: BRUSSELS. MODERN POINT DE GAZE.--Actual size. + +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 170._ + + + + +{171}CHAPTER XI. + +LOUIS XV. + + "Le luxe corrompt tout, et le riche qui en jouit, et le pauvre qui le + convoite." + --J. J. Rousseau. + + +Louis XIV. is now dead, to the delight of a wearied nation: we enter on the +Regency and times of Louis XV.--that age of "fourchettes," manchettes, and +jabots--in which the butterfly abbés, "les porte-dentelles par excellence," +played so conspicuous a part. + +The origin of the weeping ruffles, if Mercier[502] is to be credited, may +be assigned to other causes than royal decree or the edicts of fashion. +"Les grandes manchettes furent introduites par des fripons qui voulaient +filouter au jeu et escamoter des cartes." It never answers to investigate +too deeply the origin of a new invented mode,--sufficient to say, ruffles +became a necessary adjunct to the toilet of every gentleman. So +indispensable were they, the Parisians are accused of adopting the custom +of wearing ruffles and no shirts. + +"Les Parisiens," writes Mercier, "achètent quatre ajustemens contre une +chemise. Un beau Monsieur se met une chemise blanche tous les quinze jours. +Il coud ses manchettes de dentelle sur une chemise sale," and powders over +his point collar till it looks white.[503] This habit passed into a +proverb. The Maréchal de Richelieu, who, though versed in astronomy, could +not spell, said of himself, "Qu'on ne lui avoit pas fourni des chemises, +mais qu'il avoit acheté des {172}manchettes."[504] This account tallies +well with former accounts[505] and with a letter of Madame de Maintenon to +the Princess des Ursins, 1710.[506] + +At this period it was the custom for grisettes to besiege the Paris hotels, +bearing on their arms baskets decked out with ruffles and jabots of +Malines, Angleterre, and point. What reader of Sterne will not recollect +the lace-seller in his _Sentimental Journey_? + +The jabot and manchettes of points were the customary "cadeau de noces" of +the bride to her intended for his wedding dress--a relic of which practice +may be found in the embroidered wedding shirt furnished by the lady, in the +North of Europe.[507] The sums expended in these articles would now appear +fabulous. The Archbishop of Cambray[508] alone possessed four dozen pairs +of ruffles, Malines, point, and Valenciennes. The Wardrobe Bills of the +Duke de Penthièvre of 1738 make mention of little else. An ell and a +quarter of lace was required for one pair of ruffles. A yard, minus 1/16, +sufficed for the jabot.[509] There were manchettes de jour, manchettes +tournantes,[510] and manchettes de nuit: these last-named were mostly of +Valenciennes.[511] The {173}point d'Alençon ruffles of Buffon, which he +always wore, even when writing, were exhibited in 1864 at Falaise, being +carefully preserved in the family to whom they have descended. + +Even, if a contemporary writer may be credited, "Monsieur de Paris," the +executioner, mounted the scaffold in a velvet suit, powdered, with point +lace jabot and ruffles. + +"Les rubans, les miroirs, les dentelles sont trois choses sans lesquelles +les François ne peuvent vivre. Le luxe démesuré a confondu le maître avec +le valet,"[512] says an unknown writer, quoted by Dulaure.[513] The +servants of the last century had on their state liveries lace equal in +richness to that worn by their masters.[514] Of a Prussian gentleman, we +read, "His valets, who according to the reigning tastes were the prettiest +in the world, wore nothing but the most costly lace."[515] This custom was +not confined, however, to France or the Continent. "Our very footmen," +writes the angry _World_, "are adorned with gold and {174}silver bags and +lace ruffles. The valet is only distinguished from his master by being +better dressed;" while the _Connoisseur_ complains of "roast beef being +banished from even 'down stairs,' because the powdered footmen will not +touch it for fear of daubing their lace ruffles."[516] + +But the time, of all others, for a grand display of lace was at a visit to +a Parisian lady on her "relevailles," or "uprising," as it was called, in +the days of our third Edward. Reclining on a chaise longue, she is +described as awaiting her visitors. Nothing is to be seen but the finest +laces, arranged in artistic folds, and long bows of ribbon. An attendant +stationed at the door asks of each new arrival, "Have you any perfumes?" +She replies not, and passes on--an atmosphere of fragrance. The lady must +not be spoken to, but, the usual compliments over, the visitors proceed to +admire her lace. "Beautiful, exquisite!"--but, "Hist! speak low," and she +who gave the caution is the first, in true French style, to speak the +loudest.[517] + +Lace "garnitures de lit" were general among great people as early as 1696. +The _Mercure_ speaks of "draps garnis d'une grande dentelle de point +d'Angleterre." In 1738 writes the Duc de Luynes,[518] "Aujourd'hui Madame +de Luynes s'est fait apporter les fournitures qu'elle avoit choisies pour +la Reine, et qui regardent les dames d'honneur. Elles consistent en +couvrepieds[519] garnis de dentelle pour le grand lit et pour les petits, +en taies d'oreiller[520] garnies du {175}même point d'Angleterre, etc. +Cette fourniture coûte environ 30,000 livres, quoique Madame de Luynes +n'ait pas fait renouveler les beaux couvrepieds de la Reine." These +garnitures were renewed every year, and Madame de Luynes inherited the old +ones. + +[Illustration: Fig. 81. + +MADAME SOPHIE DE FRANCE, 1782, DAUGHTER OF LOUIS XV. By Drouais. M. de +Versailles. (In this picture the hexagonal brides and heavy relief of Point +d'Argentan are clearly to be seen.)] + +{176}[Illustration: Fig. 82. + +MADAME ADÉLAÏDE DE FRANCE, DAUGHTER OF LOUIS XV.--(M. de Versailles.)] + +Madame de Créquy, describing her visit to the Duchesse Douairière de La +Ferté, says, when that lady received her, she was lying in a state bed, +under a coverlet made of point de Venise in one piece. "I am persuaded," +she adds, "that the trimming of her sheets, which were of point d'Argentan, +were worth at least 40,000 écus."[521] To such a pitch had the taste for +lace-trimmed linen attained, that when, in 1739, Madame, eldest daughter of +Louis XV., espoused the Prince of Spain, the bill for these articles alone +amounted to £25,000; and when Cardinal Fleury, a most economical prelate, +saw the trousseau, he observed, "Qu'il croyait que c'etait pour marier +toutes les sept Mesdames."[522] (Figs. 81, 82). Again, Swinburne writes +from Paris:[523] "The trousseau of Mademoiselle de Matignon will cost +100,000 crowns (£25,000). The expense here of rigging[524] out a bride is +equal to a handsome portion in England. Five thousand pounds' worth of +lace, linen, etc., is a common thing among them." + +PLATE LIII. + +[Illustration: MADAME LOUISE DE FRANCE. Trimmings and tablier of Point +d'Argentan. + +Painted by Nattier at the age of eleven, 1748. M. de Versailles.] + +_To face page 176._ + +{177}[Illustration: Fig. 83. + +MARIE THÉRÈSE ANT. RAPH., INFANTA OF SPAIN, FIRST WIFE OF LOUIS DAUPHIN, +SON OF LOUIS XV. + +--By Tocqué. Dated 1748. M. de Versailles.] + +The masks worn by the ladies at this period were of black blonde lace[525] +of the most exquisite fineness and design.[526] They were trimmed round the +eyes, like those described by Scarron:-- + + "Dirai-je comme ces fantasques + Qui portent dentelle à leurs masques, + En chamarrent les trous des yeux, + Croyant que le masque en est mieux." + +In the reign of Louis XV., point de France was rivalled {178}by the +productions of Angleterre[527] and Malines. Argentan and Alençon (Fig. 83) +were declared by fashion to be "dentelles d'hiver:" each lace now had its +appointed season.[528] "On porte le point en hiver," says the Dictionary of +the Academy. + +There was much etiquette, too, in the court of France, as regards lace, +which was never worn in mourning. Dangeau chronicles, on the death of the +Princess of Baden, "Le roi qui avoit repris les dentelles et les rubans +d'or et d'argent, reprend demain le linge uni et les rubans unis +aussi."[529] + +"Madame" thus describes the "petit deuil" of the Margrave of Anspach: "Avec +des dentelles blanches sur le noir, du beau ruban bleu, à dentelles +blanches et noires. C'etoit une parure magnifique."[530] + + + + +{179}CHAPTER XII. + +LOUIS XVI. TO THE EMPIRE. + + "Proud Versailles! thy glory falls."--Pope. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 84. + +MARIE-ANTOINETTE.--From a picture by Madame Le Brun. M. de Versailles.] + +In the reign of Louis XVI. society, tired out with ceremony and the stately +manners of the old court, at last began to emancipate itself. +Marie-Antoinette (Fig. 84) first gave the signal. Rid herself of the +preaching of "Madame Etiquette" she could not on state occasions, so she +did her best to amuse herself in private. The finest Indian muslin now +supplanted the heavy points of the old court. Madame du Barry, in her +_Memoirs_, mentions the purchase of Indian muslin so fine {180}that the +piece did not weigh fifteen ounces, although sufficient to make four +dresses. "The ladies looked," indignantly observed the Maréchale de +Luxembourg, "in their muslin aprons and handkerchiefs like cooks and +convent porters."[531] To signify her disapproval of this new-fangled +custom, the Maréchale sent her grand-daughter, the Duchesse de Lauzun, an +apron of sailcloth trimmed with fine point and six fichus of the same +material similarly decorated. Tulle and marli[532] were much worn during +the latter years of the Queen's life, and entries of tulle, marli, blondes, +and embroidered linens occur over and over again in Madame Eloffe's +accounts with the Queen. The richer ornamental laces were not worn, and one +reads of items such as "a gauze fichu trimmed with white _prétention_." + +On leaving Versailles for the last time (October 6th, 1789), Marie +Antoinette distributed among her suite all that remained of her fans and +laces. + +The arrangement of the lace lappets was still preserved by rule. "Lappets +to be pinned up"--lappets to be let down on grand occasions.[533] Later +Madame de Staël, like a true _bas-bleu_--without speaking of her curtsey to +Marie Antoinette, which was all wrong--on her first visit of ceremony to +Madame de Polignac, in defiance of all etiquette, left her lace lappets in +the carriage. + +The democratic spirit of the age now first creeps out in {181}the fashions. +Among the rich _parures_ of Du Barry[534] we find "barbes à la +paysanne"--everything now becomes "à coquille," "à papillon." + +Even the Queen's hairdresser, Léonard, "qui + + "Portait jusques au ciel l'audace de ses coiffures," + +did not venture to introduce much lace. + +The affected phraseology of the day is very "precious" in its absurdity. We +read of the toilette of Mademoiselle Duthé in which she appeared at the +opera. She wore a robe "soupirs étouffés," trimmed with "regrets +superflus"; a point of "candeur parfaite, garnie en plaintes indiscrètes"; +ribbons en "attentions marquées"; shoes "cheveux de la reine,"[535] +embroidered with diamonds, "en coups perfides" and "venez-y-voir" in +emeralds. Her hair "en sentiments soutenus," with a cap of "conquête +assurée," trimmed with ribbons of "oeil abattu"; a "chat[536] sur le col," +the colour of "gueux nouvellement arrivé," and upon her shoulders a Médicis +"en bienséance," and her muff of "agitation momentanée." + +In the accounts of Mademoiselle Bertin, the Queen's milliner, known for her +saying, "Il n'y a rien de nouveau dans ce monde que ce qui est oublié," we +have little mention of lace.[537] + +{182}"Blond à fond d'Alençon semé à poix, à mouches," now usurps the place +of the old points. Even one of the "grandes dames de la vieille cour," +Madame Adélaïde de France herself, is represented in her picture by Madame +Guiard with a spotted handkerchief, probably of blonde (Fig. 85). + +[Illustration: Fig. 85. + +MADAME ADÉLAÏDE DE FRANCE.--After a picture by Madame Guiard, dated 1787. +M. de Versailles.] + +The Church alone protects the ancient fabrics. The lace of the Rohan +family, almost hereditary Princes Archbishops of Strasburg, was of +inestimable value. "We met," writes the Baroness de Oberkirch, "the +cardinal coming out of his chapel dressed in a soutane of scarlet moire and +rochet of English lace of inestimable value. When on great occasions he +officiates at Versailles, he wears an alb of old lace 'en point à +l'aiguille' of such beauty that his assistants were almost afraid to touch +it. His arms and device are worked in a medallion above the large flowers. +This alb is estimated at 100,000 livres. On the day of which I speak he +wore the rochet of English lace, one of his least beautiful, as his +{183}secretary, the Abbé Georget, told me."[538] On his elevation to the +see of Bourges (1859), Monseigneur de La Tour d'Auvergne celebrated mass at +Rome arrayed with all the sacerdotal ornaments of point d'Alençon of the +finest workmanship. This lace descended to him from his uncle, Cardinal de +La Tour d'Auvergne, who had inherited it from his mother, Madame d'Aumale, +so well known as the friend of Madame de Maintenon. Under the first Empire, +a complete suit of lace was offered to the prelate for sale, which had +belonged to Marie-Antoinette. This lace is described as formed of squares +of old point d'Angleterre or de Flandre, each representing a different +subject. The beauty of the lace and its historic interest decided his +Eminence to speak of it to his colleague, Cardinal de Bonald, and these two +prelates united their resources, bought the lace, and divided it. + +But this extravagance and luxury were now soon to end. The years of '92 and +'93 were approaching. The great nobility of France, who patronised the rich +manufactures of the kingdom at the expense of a peasantry starving on +estates they seldom if ever visited, were ere long outcasts in foreign +countries. The French Revolution was fatal to the lace trade. For twelve +years the manufacture almost ceased, and more than thirty different fabrics +entirely disappeared.[539] Its merits were, however, recognised by the +Etats Généraux in 1789, who, when previous to meeting they settled the +costume of the three estates, decreed to the _noblesse_ a lace cravat. It +was not until 1801, when Napoleon wished to "faire revenir le luxe," that +we again find it chronicled in the annals of the day: "How charming +Caroline Murat looked in her white mantelet of point de Bruxelles et sa +robe garnie des mêmes dentelles," etc. The old laces were the work of +years, and transmitted as heirlooms[540] from generation to generation. +{184}They were often heavy and overloaded with ornament. The ancient style +was now discarded and a lighter description introduced. By an improvement +in the point de raccroc several sections of lace were joined together so as +to form one large piece; thus ten workers could now produce in a month what +had formerly been the work of years. + +Napoleon especially patronised the fabrics of Alençon, Brussels, and +Chantilly. He endeavoured, too, without success, to raise that of +Valenciennes. After the example of Louis XIV., he made the wearing of his +two favourite points obligatory at the Court of the Tuileries, and it is to +his protection these towns owe the preservation of their manufactures. The +lace-makers spoke of the rich orders received from the imperial court as +the most remarkable epoch in their industrial career. Never was the beauty +and costliness of the laces made for the marriage of Marie-Louise yet +surpassed. To reproduce them now would, estimates M. Aubry, cost above a +million of francs. Napoleon was a great lover of lace: he admired it as a +work of art, and was proud of the proficiency of his subjects. Mademoiselle +d'Avrillion relates the following anecdote:--The Princess Pauline had given +orders to the Empress Joséphine's lace-maker for a dress and various +objects to the value of 30,000 francs. When the order was completed and the +lace brought home, the Princess changed her mind and refused to take them. +Madame Lesoeur, in despair, appealed to the Empress. She, thinking the +price not unreasonable, considering the beauty of the points, showed them +to Napoleon, and told him the circumstance. "I was in the room at the +time," writes the authoress of the _Mémoires_. The Emperor examined +minutely each carton, exclaiming at intervals, "Comme on travaille bien en +France, je dois encourager un pareil commerce. Pauline a grand tort." He +ended by paying the bill and distributing the laces among the ladies of the +court.[541] Indeed, it may be said that never {185}was lace more in vogue +than during the early days of the Empire. + +The morning costume of a French duchesse of that court is described in the +following terms:--"Elle portait un peignoir brodé en mousseline garni d'une +Angleterre très-belle, une fraise en point d'Angleterre. Sur sa tête la +duchesse avait jeté en se levant une sorte de 'baigneuse,' comme nos mères +l'auraient appelée, en point d'Angleterre, garnie de rubans de satin rose +pâle."[542] The fair sister of Napoleon, the Princess Pauline Borghese, +"s'est passionnée," as the term ran, "pour les dentelles."[543] + +That Napoleon's example was quickly followed by the _élégantes_ of the +Directory, the following account, given to the brother of the author by an +elderly lady who visited Paris during that very short period[544] when the +English flocked to the Continent, of a ball at Madame Récamier's, to which +she had an invitation, will testify. + +The First Consul was expected, and the _élite_ of Paris early thronged the +_salons_ of the charming hostess, but where was Madame Récamier? +"_Souffrante_," the murmur ran, retained to her bed by a sudden +indisposition. She would, however, receive her guests _couchée_. + +The company passed to the bedroom of the lady, which, as still the custom +in France, opened on one of the principal _salons_. There, in a gilded bed, +lay Madame Récamier, the most beautiful woman in France. The bed-curtains +were of the finest Brussels lace, bordered with garlands of honeysuckle, +and lined with satin of the palest rose. The _couvrepied_ was of the same +material; from the pillow of embroidered cambric fell "des flots de +Valenciennes." + +The lady herself wore a _peignoir_ trimmed with the most exquisite English +point. Never had she looked more lovely--never had she done the honours of +her hotel more gracefully. And so she received Napoleon--so she received +the heroes of that great empire. All admired her "fortitude," her +_dévouement_, in thus sacrificing herself to society, and on the following +day "tout Paris s'est fait inscrire chez elle." Never had such anxiety been +expressed--never had woman gained such a triumph. + +{186}The Duchesse d'Abrantès, who married in the year 1800, describing her +trousseau,[545] says she had "des mouchoirs, des jupons, des canezous du +matin, des peignoirs de mousseline de l'Inde, des camisoles de nuit, des +bonnets de nuit, des bonnets de matin, de toutes les couleurs, de toutes +les formes, et tout cela brodé, garni de Valenciennes ou de Malines, ou de +point d'Angleterre." In the corbeille de mariage, with the cachemires were +"les voiles de point d'Angleterre, les garnitures de robes en point à +l'aiguille, et en point de Bruxelles, ainsi qu'en blonde pour l'été. Il y +avait aussi des robes de blonde blanche et de dentelle noire," etc. When +they go to the Mairie, she describes her costume: "J'avais une robe de +mousseline de l'Inde brodée au plumetis et en points à jour, comme c'était +alors la mode. Cette robe était à queue, montante et avec de longues +manches, le lé de devant entièrement brodé ainsi que le tour du corsage, le +bout des manches, qu'on appelait alors amadis. La fraise était en +magnifique point à l'aiguille, sur ma tête j'avais un bonnet en point de +Bruxelles.... Au sommet du bonnet était attachée une petite couronne de +fleurs d'oranger, d'où partait un long voile en point d'Angleterre qui +tombait à mes pieds et dont je pouvais presque m'envelopper." Madame Junot +winds up by saying that "Cette profusion de riches dentelles, si fines, si +déliées ne semblaient être qu'un réseau nuageux autour de mon visage, où +elles se jouaient dans les boucles de mes cheveux." + +Hamlet always used to appear on the stage in lace cravat and ruffles, and +Talma, the French tragedian, was very proud of his wardrobe of lace. Dr. +Doran relates of him that on one occasion, when stopped by the Belgian +custom-house officers at the frontier, an official, turning over his +wardrobe, his stage costumes, etc., contemptuously styled them "habits de +Polichinelle." Talma, in a rage exclaimed, "Habits de Polichinelle! Why, +the lace of my jabot and ruffles alone is worth fifty louis a yard, and I +wear it on my private costume." "And must pay for it accordingly," added +the official. "Punch's clothes might pass untaxed, but Monsieur Talma's +lace owes duty to our king." Talma was forced to submit. + +The French lace manufacture felt the political events of {187}1813 to 1817, +but experienced a more severe crisis in 1818, when bobbin net was first +made in France. Fashion at once adopted the new material, and pillow lace +was for a time discarded. For fifteen years lace encountered a fearful +competition. The manufacturers were forced to lower their prices and +diminish the produce. The marts of Europe were inundated with tulle; but +happily a new channel for exportation was opened in the United States of +North America. In time a reaction took place, and in 1834, with the +exception of Alençon, all the other fabrics were once more in full +activity.[546] But a cheaper class of lace had been introduced. In 1832-33 +cotton thread first began to be substituted for flax.[547] The lace-makers +readily adopted the change; they found cotton more elastic and less +expensive. It gives, too, a brilliant appearance, and breaks less easily in +the working. All manufacturers now use the Scotch cotton, with the +exception of Alençon, some choice pieces of Brussels, and the finer +qualities of Mechlin and Valenciennes. The difference is not to be detected +by the eye; both materials wash equally well. + +We now turn to the various lace manufactures of France, taking each in its +order. + + + + +{188}CHAPTER XIII. + +THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF FRANCE. + + +France is a lace-making, as well as a lace-wearing, country. + +Of the half a million of lace-makers in Europe, nearly a quarter of a +million are estimated as belonging to France. + +Under the impulse of fashion and luxury, lace receives the stamp of the +special style of each country. Italy furnished its points of Venice and +Genoa. The Netherlands, its Brussels, Mechlin, and Valenciennes. Spain, its +silk blondes. England, its Honiton. France, its sumptuous point d'Alençon, +and its black lace of Bayeux and Chantilly. Now, each style is copied by +every nation; and though France cannot compete with Belgium in the points +of Brussels, or the Valenciennes of Ypres, she has no rival in her points +of Alençon and her white blondes, or her black silk laces. To begin with +Alençon, the only French lace not made on the pillow. + + +ALENÇON (DÉP. ORNE), NORMANDY. + + "Alenchon est sous Sarthe assis, + Il luic divise le pays."--_Romant de Rou._ + +We have already related how the manufacture of point lace was established +by Colbert. The _entrepreneurs_ had found the lace industry flourishing at +the time of the point de France. (Page 155.) + +PLATE LIV. + +[Illustration: FRENCH. Border of POINT PLAT DE FRANCE to a baptismal veil +of embroidered muslin.--The orderly arrangement of the "brides" differs +from the Venetian, and foreshadows the "grande maille picotée." + +In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] + +_To face page 188._ + +{189}[Illustration: Fig. 86. + +COLBERT + 1683.--M. de Versailles.] + +Point d'Alençon is mentioned in the _Révolte des Passemens_, 1661, +evidently as an advanced manufacture; but the monopoly of the privileged +workmen--the new-comers--displeased the old workwomen, and Colbert[548] was +too despotic in his orders prohibiting to make any kind of point except +that of the royal manufactory, and made the people so indignant that they +revolted. The intendant, Favier-Duboulay, writes to Colbert, August 1665, +that one named Le Prevost, of this town, having given suspicion to the +people that he was about to form an establishment of "ouvrages de fil," the +women to the number of above a thousand assembled, and pursued him so that, +if he had not managed to escape their fury, he would assuredly have +suffered from their violence. "He took refuge with me," he writes, "and I +with difficulty appeased the multitude by assuring them that they would not +be deprived of the liberty of working. It is a fact that for many years the +town of Alençon subsists only by means of these small works of lace: that +the same people make and sell, and in years of scarcity they subsist only +by this little industry, and that wishing to {190}take away their liberty, +they were so incensed I had great difficulty in pacifying them." + +The Act, it appears, had come from the Parliament of Paris, but as Alençon +is in Normandy, it was necessary to have the assent of the Parliament of +Rouen. + +The remonstrance of the intendant (see his letter in Chap. IX., page 155) +met with the attention it deserved. + +On September 14th following, after a meeting headed by Prevost and the +Marquis de Pasax, intendant of the city, it was settled that after the king +had found 200 girls, the rest were at liberty to work as they pleased; none +had permission to make the fine point of the royal pattern, except those +who worked for the manufactory; and all girls must show to the authorities +the patterns they intended working, "so that the King shall be satisfied, +and the people gain a livelihood." + +The "maîtresse dentellière," Catherine Marcq, writes to Colbert, November +30th, 1665, complaining of the obstinacy of the people, who prefer the old +work. "Out of 8,000 women, we have got but 700, and I can only count on 250 +who at least will have learnt to perfection the Venetian point, the +remainder merely working a month and then leaving the establishment." + +The new points are duly chronicled.[549] In 1677 the _Mercure_ announces, +"They make now many points de France without grounds, and 'picots en +campannes' to all the five handkerchiefs. We have seen some with little +flowers over the large, which might be styled 'flying flowers,' being only +attached in the centre." + +In 1678 it says: "The last points de France have no brides, the fleurons +are closer together. The flowers, which are in higher relief in the centre, +and lower at the edges, are united by small stalks and flowers, which keep +them in their places, instead of brides. The manner of disposing the +branches, called 'ordonnances,' is of two kinds: the one is a twirling +stalk, which throws out flowers; the other is regular--a centre flower, +throwing out regular branches on each side." In October of the same year, +the _Mercure_ says: {191}"There has been no change in the patterns," and it +does not allude to them again. What can these be but Venice patterns? The +flower upon flower--like "fleurs volante"--exactly answers to the point in +high relief (Fig. 87). + +[Illustration: Fig. 87. + +VENICE POINT.--"Dentelle Volante."] + +A memoir drawn up in 1698 by M. de Pommereu[550] is the next mention we +find of the fabric of Alençon. "The manufacture of the points de France is +also," he says, "one of the most considerable in the country. This fabric +began at Alençon, where most of the women and girls work at it, to the +number of more than eight to nine hundred, without counting those in the +country, which are in considerable numbers. It is a commerce of about +500,000 livres per annum. This point is called 'vilain'[551] in the +country; the principal sale was in Paris during the war, but the demand +increases very much since the peace, in consequence of its exportation to +foreign countries." The number of lace-workers given by M. Pommereu appears +small, but Alençon {192}manufacture was then on the decline. The death of +its protector, Colbert (1683), and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, +which reduced the population one-third, the industrial families (qui +faisaient le principal commerce) retiring to England and Scotland, the long +wars of Louis XIV., and, finally, his death in 1715, all contributed to +diminish its prosperity.[552] + +Savary, writing in 1726, mentions the manufacture of Alençon as not being +so flourishing, but attributes it to the long wars of Louis XIV. He adds, +"It still, however, maintains itself with some reputation at Alençon; the +magnificence, or, if you like, the luxury of France, sufficing to keep it +up even in war-time; but it flourishes principally in peace, in consequence +of the large exports to foreign countries." Russia and Poland were its +great marts: and before the Revolution, Poland estimates the annual value +of the manufacture at 11,000,000 to 12,000,000 livres.[553] The workwomen +earned from three sous to three livres per day. + +In 1680, in _Britannia Languens_, a discourse upon trade, it states that +"the laces commonly called points de Venise now come mostly from France, +and amount to a vast sum yearly." + +PLATE LV. + +[Illustration: FRENCH. POINT D'ALENÇON.--Eighteenth century. Period Louis +XV. Needle-point lappet end and border. These show in combination the +"Alençon," "réseau," and the "Argentan" hexagonal "brides." The ribands in +the border show varieties of diaper pattern stitches similar to those in +the "modes" of heavy Venetian points. Widths: lappet 4½ in., border 3½ in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 192._ + +{193}Point d'Alençon is made entirely by hand, with a fine needle, upon a +parchment pattern, in small pieces, afterwards united by invisible seams. +There are twelve processes, including the design, each of which is executed +by a special workwoman. These can again be subdivided, until the total +number of processes is twenty or twenty-two.[554] The design, engraved upon +a copper plate, is printed off in divisions upon pieces of parchment ten +inches long, each numbered according to its order. Green parchment is now +used, and has been in vogue since 1769, at which date it is noted in an +inventory of Simon Geslin (April 13th, 1769). The worker is better able to +detect any faults in her work than on white. The pattern is next pricked +upon the parchment, which is stitched to a piece of very coarse linen +folded double. The outline of the pattern is then formed by two flat +threads, which are guided along the edge by the thumb of the left hand, and +fixed by minute stitches passed, with another thread and needle, through +the holes of the parchment. When the outline is finished, the work is given +over to the "réseleuse" to make the ground, which is of two kinds, bride +and réseau. The delicate réseau is worked backwards and forwards from the +footing to the picot--of the bride, more hereafter. Besides the hexagonal +bride ground, and the ground of meshes, there was another variety of +grounding used in Alençon lace. "This ground consists of +buttonhole-stitched skeleton hexagons, within each of which was worked a +small solid hexagon connected with the surrounding figure by means of six +little tyes or brides." Lace with this particular ground has been called +Argentella.[555] In making the flowers of Alençon point, the worker +supplies herself with a long needle and a fine thread; with these she works +the "point noué" (buttonhole stitch) from left to right, and when arrived +at the end of the flower, the thread is thrown back from the point of +departure, and she works again from left to right over the thread. This +gives a closeness and evenness to the work unequalled in any other point. +Then follow the "modes," and other different operations, which completed, +the threads which unite lace, {194}parchment and linen together, are cut +with a sharp razor passed between the two folds of linen, any little +defects repaired, and then remains the great work of uniting all these +segments imperceptibly together. This task devolves upon the head of the +fabric, and is one requiring the greatest nicety. An ordinary pair of men's +ruffles would be divided into ten pieces; but when the order must be +executed quickly, the subdivisions are even greater. The stitch by which +these sections are worked is termed "assemblage," and differs from the +"point de raccroc," where the segments are united by a fresh row of +stitches. At Alençon they are joined by a seam, following as much as +possible the outlines of the pattern. When finished, a steel instrument, +called a picot, is passed into each flower, to polish it and remove any +inequalities in its surface. The more primitive lobster-claw or a wolf's +tooth was formerly used for the same purpose. + +Point d'Alençon is of a solidity which defies time and washing, and has +been justly called the Queen of Lace. It is the only lace in which +horsehair is introduced along the edge to give firmness and consistency to +the cordonnet, rendered perhaps necessary to make the point stand up when +exposed to wind, mounted on the towering fabrics then worn by the ladies. +The objection to horsehair is that it shrinks in washing and draws up the +flower from the ground. It is related of a collar made at Venice for Louis +XIII. that the lace-workers, being unsuccessful in finding sufficiently +fine horsehair, employed some of their own hair instead, in order to secure +that marvellous delicacy of work which they aimed at producing. The +specimen, says Lefébure, cost 250 golden écus (about sixty pounds). In +1761, a writer, describing the point de France, says that it does not +arrive at the taste and delicacy of Brussels, its chief defect consisting +in the thickness of the cordonnet, which thickens when put into water. The +horsehair edge also draws up the ground, and makes the lace rigid and +heavy. He likewise finds fault with the "modes" or fancy stitches of the +Alençon, and states that much point is sent from there to Brussels to have +the modes added, thereby giving it a borrowed beauty; but connoisseurs, he +adds, easily detect the difference.[556] + +[Illustration: Fig. 88. + +ARGENTELLA, OR POINT D'ALENÇON À RÉSEAU ROSACÉ.--Period Louis XV. + +_To face page 194._] + +{195}When the points of Alençon and Argentan dropped their general +designations of "points de France"[557] it is difficult to say. An eminent +writer states the name was continued till the Revolution, but this is a +mistake. The last inventory in which we have found mention of point de +France is one of 1723,[558] while point d'Argentan is noted in 1738,[559] +and point d'Alençon in 1741, where it is specified to be "à réseau."[560] + +In the accounts of Madame du Barry, no point d'Alençon is mentioned--always +point à l'aiguille--and "needle point" is the name by which point d'Alençon +was alone known in England during the last century. The purchases of needle +point of Madame du Barry were most extensive. Sleeves (engageantes) and +lappets for 8,400 livres; court ruffles at 1,100; a mantelet at 2,400; a +veste at 6,500; a grande coëffe, 1,400; a garniture, 6,010, etc.[561] + +In the description of the Department of the Orne drawn up in 1801, it is +stated, "Fifteen years back there were from 7,000 to 8,000 lace-workers at +Alençon and its environs: the fabric of Argentan, whose productions are +finer and more costly, had about 2,000." Almost all these lace-makers, some +of whom made réseau, others the bride ground, passed into England, Spain, +Italy, Germany, and the courts of the north, especially to Russia. These +united fabrics produced to the annual value of at least 1,800,000 fr., and +when they had extraordinary orders, such as "parures" for beds and other +large works, it increased to 2,000,000 fr. (£80,000). But this commerce, +subject to the variable empire of fashion, had declined one-half even +before the Revolution. Now it is almost nothing, and cannot be estimated at +more than 150,000 to 200,000 fr. per annum. "It supported three {196}cities +and their territory, for that of Séez[562] bore its part. Some black laces +are still made at Séez, but they are of little importance.--P.S. These +laces have obtained a little favour at the last Leipsic fair."[563] + +The manufacture of Alençon was nearly extinct when the patronage of +Napoleon caused it to return almost to its former prosperity. Among the +orders executed for the Emperor on his marriage with the Empress Marie +Louise, was a bed furniture of great richness. Tester, curtains, coverlet, +pillow-cases. The principal subject represented the arms of the empire +surrounded by bees. From its elaborate construction, point d'Alençon is +seldom met with in pieces of large size; the amount of labour therefore +expended on this bed must have been marvellous. Mrs. Palliser, when at +Alençon, was so fortunate as to meet with a piece of the ground powdered +with bees, bought from the ancient fabric of Mercier, at Lonray, when the +stock many years back was sold off and dispersed (Fig. 89). The point +d'Alençon bees are appliqué upon a pillow ground, "vrai réseau," executed +probably at Brussels. Part of the "équipage" of the King of Rome excited +the universal admiration of all beholders at the Paris Exhibition of 1855. + +Alençon again fell with the empire. No new workers were trained, the old +ones died off, and as it requires so many hands to execute even the most +simple lace, the manufacture again nearly died out. In vain the Duchesse +d'Angoulême endeavoured to revive the fabric, and gave large orders +herself; but point lace had been replaced by blonde, and the consumption +was so small, it was resumed on a very confined scale. So low had it fallen +in 1830, that there were only between 200 and 300 lace-workers, whose +products did not exceed the value of 1,200 francs (£48). Again, in 1836, +Baron Mercier, thinking by producing it a lower price to procure a more +favourable sale, set up a lace school, and caused the girls to work the +patterns on bobbin net, as bearing some resemblance to the old "point de +bride," but fashion did not favour "point de bride," so the plan failed. + +In 1840 fresh attempts were made to revive the {197}manufacture. Two +hundred aged women--all the lace-makers remaining of this once flourishing +fabric--were collected and again set to work. A new class of patterns was +introduced, and the manufacture once more returned to favour and +prosperity. But the difficulties were great. The old point was made by an +hereditary set of workers, trained from their earliest infancy to the one +special work they were to follow for life. Now new workers had to be +procured from other lace districts, already taught the ground peculiar to +their fabrics. The consequence was, their fingers never could acquire the +art of making the pure Alençon réseau. They made a good ground, certainly, +but it was mixed with their own early traditions: as the Alençon workers +say, "Elles bâtardisent les fonds." + +[Illustration: Fig. 89. + +BED MADE FOR NAPOLEON I.] + +In the Exhibition of 1851 were many fine specimens of {198}the revived +manufacture. One flounce, which was valued at 22,000 francs, and had taken +thirty-six women eighteen months to complete, afterwards appeared in the +"corbeille de mariage" of the Empress Eugénie. + +In 1856 most magnificent orders were given for the imperial layette, a +description of which is duly chronicled.[564] The young Prince was "voué au +blanc"; white, therefore, was the prevailing colour in the layette. The +curtains of the Imperial infant's cradle were of Mechlin, with Alençon +coverlet lined with satin. The christening robe, mantle, and head-dress +were all of Alençon; and the three _corbeilles_, bearing the imperial arms +and cipher, were also covered with the same point. Twelve dozen embroidered +frocks, each in itself a work of art, were all profusely trimmed with +Alençon, as were also the aprons of the Imperial nurses. + +A costly work of Alençon point appeared in the Exhibition of 1855--a dress, +purchased by the Emperor for 70,000 francs (£2,800), and presented by him +to the Empress. + +A few observations remain to be made respecting the dates of the patterns +of Alençon point, which, like those of other laces, will be found to +correspond with the architectural style of decoration of the period. The +"corbeilles de mariage" preserved in old families and contemporary +portraits are our surest guides. + +In the eighteenth century the réseau ground was introduced, and soon became +universally adopted. After carefully examining the engravings of the time, +the collection of historical portraits at Versailles and other galleries, +we find no traces of Point d'Alençon with the réseau or network ground in +the time of Louis XIV. The laces are all of the Venetian character, à +bride, and Colbert himself is depicted in a cravat of Italian design; +while, on the other hand, the daughters of Louis XV. (Mesdames de France) +and the "Filles du Régent" all wear rich points of Alençon and +Argentan.[565] The earlier patterns of the eighteenth century are flowery +and undulating[566] (Fig. 91), scarcely {199}begun, never ending, into +which haphazard are introduced patterns of a finer ground, much as the +medallions of Boucher or Vanloo were inserted in the gilded panellings of a +room. Twined around them appear a variety of _jours_, filled up with +patterns of endless variety, the whole wreathed and garlanded like the +decoration of a theatre. Such was the taste of the day. "Après moi le +déluge"; and the precept of the favourite was carried out in the style of +design: an _insouciance_ and _laisser-aller_ typical of a people regardless +of the morrow. + +Towards the latter end of the reign a change came over the national taste. +It appears in the architecture and domestic decoration. As the cabriole +legs of the chairs are replaced by the "pieds de daim," so the running +patterns of the lace give place to compact and more stiff designs. The +flowers are rigid and angular, of the style called _bizarre_, of almost +conventional form. With Louis XVI. began the ground _semé_ with compact +little bouquets, all intermixed with small patterns, spots (_pois_), +fleurons, rosettes, and tears (_larmes_) (Fig. 90), which towards the end +of the century entirely expel the bouquets from the ground. The semés +continued during the Empire. + +This point came into the highest favour again during the Second Empire. +Costly orders for trousseaux were given not only in France, but from Russia +and other countries. One amounted to 150,000 francs (£6,000)--flounce, +lappets and trimmings for the body, pocket-handkerchief, fan, parasol, all +_en suite_, and, moreover, there were a certain number of metres of +_aunage_, or border lace, for the layette. The making of point d'Alençon +being so slow, it was impossible ever to execute it "to order" for this +purpose. + +Great as is the beauty of the workmanship of Alençon, it was never able to +compete with Brussels in one respect: its designs were seldom copied from +nature, while the fabric of Brabant sent forth roses and honeysuckles of a +correctness worthy of a Dutch painter. + +{200}This defect is now altered. The designs of the lace are admirable +copies of natural flowers, intermixed with grasses and ferns, which give a +variety to the form of the leaves. + +[Illustration: Fig. 90. + +ALENÇON POINT, À PETITES BRIDES.--Louis XVI.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 91. + +POINT D'ALENÇON.--Louis XV. period. + +_To face page 200._] + +{201}Alençon point is now successfully made at Burano near Venice, in +Brussels, at Alençon itself, and at Bayeux, where the fabric was +introduced, in 1855, by M. Auguste Lefébure, a manufacturer of that town. +Departing from the old custom of assigning to each lace-maker a special +branch of the work, the lace is here executed through all its stages by the +same worker. Perhaps the finest example of point d'Alençon exhibited in +1867 was the produce of the Bayeux fabric; a dress consisting of two +flounces, the pattern, flowers, and foliage of most artistic and harmonious +design, relieved by the new introduction of shaded tints, giving to the +lace the relief of a picture.[567] The ground (point à l'aiguille) was +worked with the greatest smoothness and regularity, one of the great +technical difficulties when such small pieces have to be joined together. +The price of the dress was 85,000 francs (£3,400). It took forty women +seven years to complete. + +In the Exhibition of 1889 in Paris, Alençon itself showed the best piece of +lace that had taken 16,500 working days to make. + + + + +{202}CHAPTER XIV. + +ARGENTAN (DÉP. ORNE). + + "Vous qui voulez d'Argentan faire conte, + A sa grandeur arrêter ne faut; + Petite elle est, mais en beauté surmonte + Maintes cités, car rien ne lui defaut; + Elle est assise en lieu plaisant et haut, + De tout côtè à prairie, à campaigne, + Un fleuve aussi, où maint poisson se baigne, + Des bois épais, suffisans pour nourrir + Biches et cerfs qui sont prompts à courir; + Plus y trouvez, tant elle est bien garnie, + Plus au besoin nature secourir + Bon air, bon vin, et bonne compagnie!" + --_Des Maisons._ 1517. + + +The name of the little town of Argentan, whose points long rivalled those +of Alençon, is familiar to English ears as connected with our Norman kings. +Argentan is mentioned by old Robert Wace as sending its sons to the +conquest of England.[568] It was here the mother of Henry II. retired in +1130; and the imperial eagle borne as the arms of the town is said to be a +memorial of her long sojourn. Here the first Plantagenet held the "cour +plénière," in which the invasion of Ireland was arranged; and it was here +he uttered those rash words which prompted his adherents to leave Argentan +to assassinate Thomas à Becket.[569] + +But, apart from historic recollections, Argentan is celebrated for its +point lace. A "bureau" for points de France was established at Argentan at +the same time as the bureau at Alençon (1665), and was also under the +direction of Madame Raffy. In a letter dated November 23rd, 1665, she +writes to Colbert: "Je suis très satisfaite de la publication à son de +trompe d'un arrêt qui ordonne aux ouvrières d'Argentan de travailler +uniquement pour la bureau de la manufacture royale." + +PLATE LVI. + +[Illustration: ] + +[Illustration: POINT D'ARGENTAN.--Modern reproduction at Burano of the +flounce now belonging to the Crown of Italy, said formerly to have belonged +to Paul de Gondy, Cardinal de Retz 1614-79. This is evidently wrong, as the +design and execution is of fifty years later date, but it is a fine +specimen of an ecclesiastical flounce. Height, 24 in. + +Photo by Burano School.] + +_Between pages 202 and 203._ + +{203}Point d'Argentan has been thought to be especially distinguished by +its hexagonally-arranged brides; but this has also been noticed as a +peculiarity of certain Venetian point laces. The bride ground, to which we +have before alluded in the notice of Alençon, was of very elaborate +construction, and consists of a large six-sided mesh, worked over with the +buttonhole stitch. It was always printed on the parchment pattern, and the +upper angle of the hexagon is pricked. After the hexagon is formed, by +passing the needle and thread round the pins in a way too complicated to be +worth explaining, the six sides are worked over with seven or eight +buttonhole stitches in each side. The bride ground was consequently very +strong. It was much affected in France; the réseau was more preferred +abroad.[570] At the present time, it is usual to consider the point +d'Alençon as a lace with a fine réseau, the mesh of which is more square +than hexagonal in form, worked by looped stitches across horizontal lines +of thread, with the flower or ornament worked in fine point stitches, +closely resembling the gimp or ornament in the point de Venise à réseau, +and outlined by a cordonnet of the finest buttonhole stitches worked over a +horsehair or threads, while point d'Argentan is a lace with similar work as +regards flower, ornament, and cordonnet, but with a hexagonal bride ground, +each side of the hexagon being of the finest buttonhole stitchings. +Regarding the date of the introduction of the réseau, the large hexagonal +"grande bride" would appear to follow from the points de Venise, Argentan +being named before Alençon à réseau. Madame Despierres, however, is of +opinion that Argentan simplified the usual réseau by adopting the bride +tortillé (_i.e._, twisting the threads round each mesh instead of the more +arduous buttonhole stitching). Alençon would then {204}have copied back the +petites brides of small hexagonal twisted or buttonholed meshes in Louis +XVI.'s reign. To this again succeeded the looped réseau of very thick +thread. + +With the view of showing that Alençon and Argentan were intimately +connected the one with the other in the manufacture of lace, M. Dupont says +that, whereas considerable mention has been made in various records of the +establishment at Alençon of a lace factory, trace of such records with +regard to Alençon cannot be found. A family of thread and linen dealers, by +name Monthulay, are credited with the establishment of a branch manufactory +or _succursale_ for lace at Argentan. + +The Monthulays, then, sowed Alençon seeds at Argentan, which developed into +the so-called Argentan lace. In almost all respects it is the same as +Alençon work.[571] The two towns, separated by some ten miles, had +communications as frequent as those which passed between Alençon and the +little village of Vimoutier, eighteen miles distant, where one workman in +particular produced what is known as the true Alençon lace. If a work were +made at Argentan, it was called Argentan, if at Alençon, Alençon, though +both might have been produced from the same designs. + +In 1708, the manufacture had almost fallen to decay, when it was raised by +one Sieur Mathieu Guyard, a merchant mercer at Paris, who states that "his +ancestors and himself had for more than 120 years been occupied in +fabricating black silk and white thread lace in the environs of Paris." He +applies to the council of the king for permission to re-establish the +fabric of Argentan and to employ workwomen to the number of 600. He asks +for exemption from lodging soldiers, begs to have the royal arms placed +over his door, and stipulates that Monthulay, his draughtsman and engraver, +shall be exempted from all taxes except the capitation. The Arrêt obtained +by Guyard is dated July 24th, 1708. + +[Illustration: Fig. 92. + +POINT D'ARGENTAN. + +_To face page 204._] + +{205}Guyard's children continued the fabric. Monthulay went over to another +manufacturer, and was replaced in 1715 by Jacques James, who, in his turn, +was succeeded by his daughter, and she took as her partner one Sieur De La +Leu. Other manufactures set up in competition with Guyard's; among others +that of Madame Wyriot, whose factor, Du Ponchel, was in open warfare with +the rival house. + +The marriage of the Dauphin, in 1744, was a signal for open hostilities. Du +Ponchel asserted that Mademoiselle James enticed away his workmen, and +claimed protection, on the ground that he worked for the king and the +court. But on the other side, "It is I," writes De La Leu to the intendant, +on behalf of Mademoiselle James, "that supply the 'Chambre du Roi' for this +year, by order of the Duke de Richelieu. I too have the honour of +furnishing the 'Garderobe du Roi,' by order of the grand master, the Duke +de La Rochefoucault. Besides which, I furnish the King and Queen of Spain, +and at this present moment am supplying lace for the marriage of the +Dauphin."[572] Du Ponchel rejoins, "that he had to execute two 'toilettes +et leurs suites, nombre de bourgognes[573] et leurs suites' for the Queen, +and also a cravat, all to be worn on the same occasion." Du Ponchel appears +to have had the better interest with the controller-general; for the +quarrel ended in a prohibition to the other manufacturers to molest the +women working for Du Ponchel, though the Maison Guyard asked for +reciprocity, and maintained that their opponents had suborned and carried +off more than a hundred of their hands.[574] + +The number of lace-makers in the town of Argentan and its environs at this +period amounted to nearly 1,200. In a list of 111 who worked for the Maison +Guyard appear the {206}names of many of the good bourgeois families of the +county of Alençon, and even some of noble birth, leading one to infer that +making point lace was an occupation not disdained by ladies of poor but +noble houses. + +De La Leu, who, by virtue of an ordinance, had set up a manufacture on his +own account, applies, in 1745, to have 200 workwomen at Argentan, and 200 +at Carrouges, delivered over to his factor, in order that he may execute +works ordered for the King and the Dauphin for the approaching fêtes of +Christmas. This time the magistrate resists. "I have been forced to admit," +he writes to the intendant, "that the workmen cannot be transferred by +force. We had an example when the layette of the Dauphin was being made. +You then gave me the order to furnish a certain number of women who worked +at these points to the late Sieur de Monthulay. A detachment of women and +girls came to my house, with a female captain (capitaine femelle) at their +head, and all with one accord declared that if forced to work they would +make nothing but cobbling (bousillage). Partly by threats, and partly by +entreaty, I succeeded in compelling about a dozen to go, but the Sieur de +Monthulay was obliged to discharge them the next day.[575] I am therefore +of opinion that the only way is for M. De La Leu to endeavour to get some +of the workwomen to suborn others to work for him under the promise of +higher wages than they can earn elsewhere. M. De La Leu agrees with me +there is no other course to pursue; and I have promised him that, in case +any appeal is made to me, I shall answer that things must be so, as the +work is doing for the king." From this period we have scarcely any notices +concerning the fabric of Argentan. + +In 1763 the widow Louvain endeavoured to establish at Mortagne (Orne) a +manufacture of lace like that of Alençon and Argentan, and proposed to send +workers from these two towns to teach the art gratuitously to the girls of +Mortagne. We do not know what became of her project; but at the same period +the Epoux Malbiche de Boislaunay applied for permission to establish an +office at Argentan, with the ordinary exemptions, under the title of Royal +Manufacture. The title and exemptions were refused. There were then (1763) +at Argentan three manufactures of point de France, without counting the +general hospital of St. Louis, in which it was made for the profit of the +institution, and evidently with success; for in 1764, a widow Roger was in +treaty with the hospital to teach her two daughters the fabrication of +point d'Argentan. They were to be boarded, and give six years of their +time. The fine on non-performance was 80 livres. In 1781, the Sieur +Gravelle Desvallées made a fruitless application to establish a manufacture +at Argentan; nor could even the children of the widow Wyriot obtain a +renewal of the privilege granted to their mother.[576] Gravelle was ruined +by the Revolution, and died in 1830. + +[Illustration: Fig. 93. + +POINT D'ARGENTAN.--Grande bride ground. Eighteenth century. + +_To face page 206._] + +{207}Arthur Young, in 1788, estimates the annual value of Argentan point at +500,000 livres. + +Taking these data, we may fix the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI. as the +period when point d'Argentan was at its highest prosperity. It appears in +the inventories of the personages of that time; most largely in the +accounts of Madame du Barry (from 1769 to 1773), who patronized Argentan +equally with point d'Angleterre and point à l'aiguille. In 1772, she pays +5,740 francs for a complete garniture. Lappets, flounces, engageantes, +collerettes, aunages, fichus, are all supplied to her of this costly +fabric.[577] + +One spécialité in the Argentan point is the "bride picotée," a remnant, +perhaps, of the early Venetian teaching. It consists of the six-sided +button-hole bride, fringed with a little row of three or four picots or +pearls round each side. It was also called "bride épinglée," because pins +were pricked in the parchment pattern, to form these picots or boucles +(loops) on; hence it was sometimes styled "bride bouclée."[578] {208}The +"écaille de poisson" réseau was also much used at Alençon and Argentan. + +The manner of making "bride picotée" is entirely lost. Attempts were made +to recover the art some years since (1869), and an old workwoman was found +who had made it in her girlhood, but she proved incapable of bringing the +stitch back to her memory, and the project was given up.[579] + +Point d'Argentan disappeared, and was re-established in 1708; but though a +few specimens were produced at the Exhibition of Industry in 1808, the +industry died out in 1810.[580] It was again revived with some success by +M. M. Lefébure in 1874. In January 1874, with the assistance of the mayor, +he made a search in the greniers of the Hôtel Dieu, and discovered three +specimens of point d'Argentan in progress on the parchment patterns. One +was of bold pattern with the "grande bride" ground, evidently a man's +ruffle; the other had the barette or bride ground of point de France; the +third picotée, showing that the three descriptions of lace were made +contemporaneously at Argentan. + +The author of a little pamphlet on Argentan, M. Eugène[581] de Lonlay, +remembers having seen in his youth in the Holy week, in the churches of St. +Martin and St. Germain, the statues of the apostles covered from head to +foot with this priceless point. + +Argentan is now much made at Burano. Plate LVI. illustrates one of their +fine reproductions. + +PLATE LVII. + +[Illustration: FRENCH. POINT D'ARGENTAN.--Eighteenth century. Period Louis +XV. Needle-point borders. Both these have the hexagonal ground of the +genre "Argentan." The upper one is chiefly filled in with the "oeil de +perdrix" or "réseau rosacé." Width, 3-3/8 in. The lower one has been +pieced together. Width, 7 in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 208._ + + + + +{209}CHAPTER XV. + +ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (DÉP. SEINE). + + "Quelle heure est-il? + Passé midi. + Qui vous l'a dit? + Une petite souris. + Que fait-elle? + De la dentelle. + Pour qui? + La reine de Paris."--_Old Nursery Song._ + + +Early in the seventeenth century, lace was extensively made in the environs +of Paris, at Louvres, Gisors, Villiers-le-Bel, Montmorency, and other +localities. Of this we have confirmation in a work[582] published 1634, in +which, after commenting upon the sums of money spent in Flanders for +"ouvrages et passemens,[583] tant de point couppé que d'autres," which the +king had put a stop to by the sumptuary law of 1633, the author +says:--"Pour empescher icelle despence, il y a toute l'Isle de France et +autres lieux qui sont remplis de plus de dix mille familles dans lesquels +les enfans de l'un et l'autre sexe, dès l'âge de dix ans ne sont instruits +qu'à la manufacture desdits ouvrages, dont il s'en trouve d'aussi beaux et +bien faits que ceux des étrangers; les Espagnols, qui le sçavent, ne s'en +fournissent ailleurs." + +Who first founded the lace-making of the Isle de France it is difficult to +say; a great part of it was in the hands of the Huguenots, leading us to +suppose it formed one of the numerous "industries" introduced or encouraged +by {210}Henry IV. and Sully. Point de Paris, mignonette, bisette, and other +narrow cheap laces were made, and common guipures were also fabricated at +St. Denis, Écouen, and Groslay. From 1665 to the French Revolution, the +exigencies of fashion requiring a superior class of lace, the workwomen +arrived gradually at making point of remarkable fineness and superior +execution. The lappet (Fig. 94) is a good example of the delicacy of the +fine point de Paris. The ground resembles the fond chant, the six-pointed +star meshed réseau. + +[Illustration: Fig. 94. + +POINT DE PARIS.--Reduced.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 95. + +POINT DE FRANCE.--Bobbin lace. Seventeenth century. With portraits of Louis +XIV. and Marie Thérèse. + +Mrs. Palliser gives this illustration the above designation in her last +edition; in her former ones, that of Flemish lace. The lace has lately come +into the possession of Mr. Arthur Blackborne. It appears to be Flemish work +made for the French Queen. + +_To face page 210._] + +{211}Savary, who wrote in 1726, mentions how, in the Château de Madrid, +there had long existed a manufacture of points de France.[584] A second +fabric was established by the Comte de Marsan,[585] in Paris, towards the +end of the same century. Having brought over from Brussels his nurse, named +Dumont, with her four daughters, she asked him, as a reward for the care +she had bestowed upon him in his infancy, to obtain for her the privilege +of setting up in Paris a manufactory of point de France. Colbert granted +the request: Dumont was established in the Faubourg St. Antoine--classic +land of embroidery from early times--cited in the "Révolte des Passemens," +"Telle Broderie qui n'avoit jamais esté plus loin que du Faubourg S. +Antoine au Louvre." A "cent Suisse" of the king's was appointed as guard +before the door of her house. In a short time Dumont had collected more +than 200 girls, among whom were several of good birth, and made beautiful +lace called point de France. Her fabric was next transferred to Rue Saint +Sauveur, and subsequently to the Hôtel Saint-Chaumont, near the Porte St. +Denis. Dumont afterwards went to Portugal, leaving her fabric under the +direction of Mademoiselle de Marsan. But, adds the historian, as fashion +and taste often change in France, people became tired of this point. It +proved difficult to wash; the flowers had to be raised each time it was +cleaned; it was thick and unbecoming to the face. Points d'Espagne were now +made instead, with small flowers, which, being very fine, was more suitable +for a lady's dress. Lastly, the taste for Mechlin lace coming in, the +manufacture of Dumont was entirely given up.[586] + +In the time of Louis XIV. the commerce of lace was distributed in different +localities of Paris, as we learn from the "Livre Commode"[587] already +quoted. The gold laces, forming of themselves a special commerce, had their +shops in the "rue des Bourdonnais (in which silk laces were especially +sold) and the rue Sainte-Honoré, entre la place aux Chats et les piliers +des Halles," while the rue Bétizy retained for itself the spécialité of +selling "points et dentelles." + +The gold and silver laces of Paris, commonly known as points +d'Espagne,[588] often embellished with pearls and other {212}ornaments, +were for years renowned throughout all Europe; and, until the revocation of +the Edict of Nantes, an object of great commerce to France. Its importance +is shown by the sumptuary edicts of the seventeenth century forbidding its +use, and also by its mention in the _Révolte des Passemens_. It was made on +the pillow. Much was exported to Spain and the Indies. How those exiled +workmen were received by the Protestant princes of Europe, and allowed to +establish themselves in their dominions, to the loss of France and the +enrichment of the lands of their adoption, will be told in due time, when +we touch on the lace manufactures of Holland and Germany. (Plate LVIII.) + +Since 1784, little lace has been made in Paris itself, but a large number +of lace-makers are employed in applying the flowers of Binche and Mirecourt +upon the bobbin-net grounds. + + +CHANTILLY (DÉP. OISE). + + "Dans sa pompe élégante admirez Chantilli, + De héros en héros, d'âge en âge embelli." + --Delille. _Les Jardins._ + +Although there long existed lace-makers in the environs of Paris, the +establishment for which Chantilly was celebrated owes its formation to +Catherine de Rohan, Duchesse de Longueville, who sent for workwomen from +Dieppe and Havre to her château of Étrepagny, where she retired at the +beginning of the seventeenth century, and established schools. + +The town of Chantilly, being the centre of a district of lace-makers, has +given its name to the laces of the surrounding district, the trade being +distributed over more than a hundred villages, the principal of which are +Saint-Maximien, Viarmes, Méric, Luzarches, and Dammartin. The proximity to +Paris, affording a ready sale for its productions, caused the manufacture +to prosper, and the narrow laces which they first made--gueuse and point de +Paris--were soon replaced by guipures, white thread, and black silk +lace.[589] + +PLATE LVIII. + +[Illustration: FRENCH (OR DUTCH).--Borders of gold and silver thread and +gimp lace. Eighteenth century. From the Treasury of St. Mary's Church, +Dantzig. Widths: 1-1/8, 1¾ and 4¼ in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 212._ + +{213}Some twenty years since there dwelt at Chantilly an elderly lady, +grand-daughter of an old proprietor, who had in her possession one of the +original pattern-books of the fabric, with autograph letters of Marie +Antoinette, the Princess de Lamballe, and other ladies of the court, giving +their orders and expressing their opinion on the laces produced. We find in +the inventories of the last century, "coëffure de cour de dentelle de soye +noire," "mantelet garni de dentelles noires," a "petite duchesse et une +respectueuse," and other "coëffes," all of "dentelle de soye noire."[590] + +White blonde appears more sparingly. The Duchesse de Duras has "une paire +de manchettes à trois rangs, deux fichus et deux paires de sabots en +blonde."[591] The latter to wear, probably, with her "robe en singe." Du +Barry purchases more largely.[592] See pages 181, 182, and 224. + +Fig. 96 is a specimen taken from the above-mentioned pattern-book; the +flowers and ground are of the same silk, the flowers worked en grillé (see +Chap. III., grillé), or open stitch, instead of the compact tissue of the +"blondes mates," of the Spanish style. The cordonnet is a thicker silk +strand, flat and untwisted. This is essentially "Chantilly lace." The +fillings introduced into the flowers and other ornaments in Chantilly lace +are mesh grounds of old date, which, according to the district where they +were made, are called vitré, mariage, and cinq trous. Chantilly first +created the black silk lace industry, and deservedly it retains her name, +whether made there or in Calvados. Chantilly black lace has always been +made of silk, but from its being a grenadine, not a shining silk, a common +error prevails that it is of thread, whereas black thread lace has never +been made {214}either at Chantilly or Bayeux. The distinguishing feature of +this lace is the _fond chant_ (an abbreviation of Chantilly), the +six-pointed star réseau, or, as it is better described, a diamond crossed +by two horizontal threads. + +Chantilly fell with '93. Being considered a Royal fabric, and its +productions made for the nobility alone, its unfortunate lace-workers +became the victims of revolutionary fury, and all perished, with their +patrons, on the scaffold. We hear no more of the manufacture until the +Empire, a period during which Chantilly enjoyed its greatest prosperity. In +1805, white blonde became the rage in Paris, and the workwomen were chiefly +employed in its fabrication. The Chantilly laces were then in high repute, +and much exported, the black, especially, to Spain and her American +colonies; no other manufactories could produce mantillas, scarfs, and other +large pieces of such great beauty. It was then they made those rich +large-patterned blondes called by the French "blondes mates," by the +Spaniards "trapeada," the prevailing style since the First Empire. + +[Illustration: Fig. 96. + +CHANTILLY.--Reduced.--From one of the Order Books, temp. Louis XVI.] + +About 1835 black lace again came into vogue, and the lace-makers were at +once set to work at making black silk laces with double ground, and +afterwards they revived the hexagonal ground of the last century, called +fond d'Alençon,[593] for the production of which they are celebrated. + +The lace industry has been driven away from Chantilly by the increase in +the price of labour consequent on its vicinity to the capital. The lace +manufacturers, unable to {215}pay such high salaries, retired to Gisors, +where in 1851 there were from 8,000 to 9,000 lace-makers. They continued to +make the finest lace some years longer at Chantilly; but now she has been +supplanted by the laces of Calvados, Caen, and Bayeux, which are similar in +material and in mode of fabrication. The generally so-called Chantilly +shawls are the production of Bayeux. + + + + +{216}CHAPTER XVI. + +NORMANDY. + + "Dangling thy hands like bobbins before thee." + --Congreve, _Way of the World_. + + +SEINE INFÉRIEURE. + +Lace forms an essential part of the costume of the Normandy peasants. The +wondrous "Bourgoin,"[594] with its long lappets of rich lace, descended +from generation to generation, but little varied from the cornettes of the +fourteenth and fifteenth centuries (Fig. 97). The countrywomen wore their +lace at all times, when it was not replaced by the cotton nightcap, without +much regard to the general effect of their daily clothes. "Madame the +hostess," writes a traveller in 1739, "made her appearance in long lappets +of bone lace, with a sack of linsey wolsey." + +The manufactures of the Pays de Caux date from the beginning of the +sixteenth century. It appears to have been the first centre in Normandy, as +in 1661 Havre laces occur in the _Révolte des Passemens_. Lace-making was +the principal occupation of the wives and daughters of the mariners and +fishermen. In 1692, M. de Sainte-Aignan, governor of Havre, found it +employed 20,000 women.[595] + +{217}[Illustration: Fig. 97. + +CAUCHOISE.--From an engraving of the eighteenth century.] + +It was in the province of Normandy, as comprised in its ancient extent, +that the lace trade made the most rapid increase in the eighteenth century. +From Arras to St. {218}Malo more than thirty centres of manufacture +established themselves, imitating with success the laces of Mechlin; the +guipures of Flanders; the fond clair, or single ground, then called point +de Bruxelles; point de Paris; black thread laces, and also those guipures +enriched with gold and silver, so much esteemed for church ornament. The +manufactures of Havre, Honfleur, Bolbec, Eu, Fécamp, and Dieppe were most +thriving. They made double and single grounds, guipure, and a kind of thick +Valenciennes, such as is still made in the little town of Honfleur and its +environs. In 1692 the number of lace-makers at Havre and its environs was +not less than 22,000. Corneille,[596] 1707, declares the laces of Havre to +be "très recherchées"; and in an engraving, 1688, representing a "marchande +lingère en sa boutique,"[597] among the stock in trade, together with the +points of Spain and England, are certain "cartons" labelled "Point du +Havre." It appears also in the inventory of Colbert, who considered it +worthy of trimming his pillow-cases and his camisoles;[598] and Madame de +Simiane[599] had two "toilettes garnies de dentelle du Hâvre," with an +"estuy à peigne," en suite. + +Next in rank to the points du Havre came the laces of Dieppe and its +environs, which, says an early writer of the eighteenth century, rivalled +the "industrie" of Argentan and Caen. The city of Dieppe alone, with its +little colony of Saint-Nicolas-d'Aliermont (a village two leagues distant, +inhabited by the descendants of a body of workmen who retired from the +bombardment of Dieppe),[600] employed 4,000 lace-makers. A writer in +1761[601] says, "A constant trade is that of laces, which yield only in +precision of design and fineness to those of Mechlin; but it has never been +so considerable as it was at the end of the seventeenth century. Although +it has slackened since about 1745 for the amount of its productions, which +have diminished in value, it has not altogether fallen. As this work is the +occupation of women and girls, a great number of whom have no other means +of subsistence, there is also a large number of dealers who buy their +laces, to send them into other parts of the kingdom, to Spain, and the +islands of America. This trade is free, without any corporation; but those +who make lace without being mercers cannot sell lace thread, the sale of +which is very lucrative."[602] + +PLATE LIX. + +[Illustration: FRENCH, CHANTILLY. FLOUNCE, BLACK SILK, BOBBIN-MADE.--Much +reduced.] + +PLATE LX. + +[Illustration: FRENCH, LE PUY. BLACK SILK GUIPURE, BOBBIN-MADE. + +Photos by A. Dryden from laces the property of Mr. Arthur Blackborne.] + +_To face page 218._ + +{219}[Illustration: Fig. 98. + +PETIT POUSSIN.--Dieppe.] + +About twenty years later we read, "The lace manufacture, which is very +ancient, has much diminished since the points, embroidered muslins, and +gauzes have gained the preference; yet good workers earn sufficient to live +comfortably; but those who have not the requisite dexterity would do well +to seek some other trade, as inferior lace-workers are unable to earn +sufficient for a maintenance."[603] M. Feret writes in 1824,[604] "Dieppe +laces are in little request; nevertheless there is a narrow kind, named +'poussin,' the habitual resource and work of the poor lace-makers of this +town, and which recommends itself by its cheapness and pleasing effect when +used as a trimming to collars and morning dresses. Strangers who visit our +town make an ample provision of this lace" (Fig. 98). The lace-makers of +Dieppe love to give their own {220}names to their different laces--vierge, +Ave Maria, etc. (Fig. 99)--and the designation of Poussin (chicken) is +given to the lace in question from the delicacy of its workmanship. + +Point de Dieppe (Fig. 100) much resembles Valenciennes, but is less +complicated in its make. It requires much fewer bobbins, and whereas +Valenciennes can only be made in lengths of eight inches without detaching +the lace from the pillow, the Dieppe point is not taken off, but +rolled.[605] It is now no longer made. In 1826 a lace school was +established at Dieppe, under the direction of two sisters from the Convent +of La Providence at Rouen, patronized by the Duchesse de Berri, the Queen +of the French, and the Empress Eugénie. The exertions of the sisters have +been most successful. In 1842 they received the gold medal for having, by +the substitution of the Valenciennes for the old Dieppe stitch, introduced +a new industry into the department. They make Valenciennes of every width, +and are most expert in the square grounds of the Belgian Valenciennes, made +entirely of flax thread, unmixed with cotton, and at most reasonable +prices.[606] + +[Illustration: Fig. 99. + +AVE MARIA.--Dieppe.] + +A very pretty double-grounded old Normandy lace, greatly used for caps, was +generally known under the name of "Dentelle à la Vierge" (Fig. 101). We +find only one mention of a lace so designated, and that in the inventory +made in 1785, after the death of Louis-Philippe, Duke of {221}Orleans, the +father of Egalité, where in his chapel at Villers-Cotterets is noted, "Une +aube en baptiste garnie en gros point de dentelle dite à la Vierge."[607] + +[Illustration: Fig. 100. + +POINT DE DIEPPE.--Bobbin-made.] + +The lace of Eu, resembling Valenciennes, was much esteemed. Located on the +site of a royal château, the property of the Duc de Penthièvre, himself a +most enthusiastic lover of fine point, as his wardrobe accounts testify, +the {222}lace-makers received, no doubt, much patronage and encouragement +from the seigneur of the domain. In the family picture by Vanloo, known as +the "Tasse de Chocolat," containing portraits of the Duc de Penthièvre, his +son, and the unfortunate Princesse de Lamballe, together with his daughter, +soon to be Duchess of Orleans, the duke, who is holding in his hand a +medal, enclosed in a case, wears a lace ruffle of Valenciennes pattern, +probably the fabric of his own people (Fig. 102). + +[Illustration: Fig. 101. + +DENTELLE À LA VIERGE.] + +{223}Arthur Young, in 1788, states the wages of the lace-makers seldom +exceed from seven or eight sous per day; some few, he adds, may earn +fifteen. Previous to the Revolution, the lace made at Dieppe amounted to +400,000 francs annually. But Normandy experienced the shock of 1790. Dieppe +had already suffered from the introduction of foreign lace when the +Revolution broke out in all its fury. The points of Havre, with the fabrics +of Pont-l'Evêque (Dép. Calvados), Harfleur, Eu, and more than ten other +neighbouring towns, entirely disappeared. Those of Dieppe and Honfleur +alone trailed on a precarious existence. + +[Illustration: Fig. 102. + +DUC DE PENTHIÈVRE.--Vanloo. M. de Versailles.] + + +CALVADOS. + +The principal lace centres in the department of Calvados are Caen and +Bayeux. + +From an early date both black and white thread laces were made, of which +the former was most esteemed. It was not until 1745 that the blondes made +their appearance. The first silk used for the new production was of its +natural colour, "écrue," hence these laces were called "blondes."[608] +{224}The blonde of the time of Marie Antoinette is a very light fabric with +spots or outline threads of thicker silk forming a pattern. Later, in the +time of the Empire, the Spanish style came into vogue. The +eighteenth-century patterns were again copied at Caen in the middle of the +nineteenth century. After a time silk was procured of a more suitable +white, and those beautiful laces produced, which before long became of such +commercial importance. A silk throwster, M. Duval, was in a great degree +the originator of the success of the Caen blondes, having been the first to +prepare those brilliant white silks which have made their reputation. The +silk is procured from Bourg-Argental, in the Cevennes. The Caen workers +made the Chantilly lace, "Grillé blanc," already described,[609] and also +the "blonde de Caen," in which the flower is made with a different silk +from that which forms the réseau and outlined with a thick silk strand. The +réseau is of the Lille type, fond simple. It is this kind of blonde which +is so successfully imitated at Calais. + +Lastly the "blonde mate," or Spanish, already mentioned. In no other place, +except Chantilly, have the blondes attained so pure a white, such perfect +workmanship, such lightness, such brilliancy as the "Blondes de Caen." They +had great success in France, were extensively imported, and made the +fortune of the surrounding country, where they were fabricated in every +cottage. Not every woman can work at the white lace. Those who have what is +locally termed the "haleine grasse," are obliged to confine themselves to +black. In order to preserve purity of colour, the lace-makers work during +the summer months in the open air, in winter in lofts over their +cow-houses: warmed by the heat of the animals, they dispense with fire and +its accompanying smoke.[610] Generally, it was only made in summer, and the +black reserved for winter work. Peuchet speaks of white lace being made in +Caen from the lowest price to twenty-five livres the ell.[611] According to +Arthur Young, the earnings {225}of the blonde-workers were greater than +those of Dieppe or Havre, a woman gaining daily from fifteen to thirty +sous. The silk blonde trade did not suffer from the crisis of 1821 to '32: +when the thread-lace-makers were reduced to the brink of ruin by the +introduction of bobbin net, the demand for blonde, on the contrary, had a +rapid increase, and Caen exported great quantities, by smuggling, to +England. The blonde-makers earning twenty-five per cent. more than the +thread-lace-makers, the province was in full prosperity. The competition +with the machine-made blondes of Calais and Nottingham has caused the +manufacture of the white blondes to be abandoned, and the Caen lace-makers +have now confined themselves to making black lace. Caen also produces gold +and silver blondes, mixed sometimes with pearls. In 1847 the laces of Caen +alone employed more than 50,000 persons, or one-eighth of the whole +population of Calvados. + +Bayeux formerly made only light thread laces--mignonette, and what Peuchet +calls[612] "point de Marli." "On ne voit dans ces dentelles," he writes, +"que du réseau de diverses espèces, du fond et une canetille à gros fil, +qu'on conduit autour de ces fonds." Marli, styled in the Dictionary of +Napoléon Landais a "tissu à jour en fil et en soie fabriqué sur le métier à +faire de la gaze," was in fact the predecessor of tulle. It was invented +about 1765,[613] and for twenty years had great success, and was much worn +by Marie Antoinette. When the mesh ground with an edging of loops, which +constituted this lace in the decadence of Louis XVI., had a pattern, it was +pois, rosettes, or the spots of point d'esprit. In the _Tableau de Paris_, +1782, we read that Marli employed a great number of workpeople, "et l'on a +vu des soldats valides et invalides faire le marli, le promener, l'offrir, +et le vendre eux-mêmes. Des soldats faire le marli!" It was to this Marli, +or large pieces of white thread net, that Bayeux owed its reputation. No +other fabric could produce them at so low a price. Bayeux alone made albs, +shawls, and other articles of large size, of thread lace. + +{226}Lace was first made at Bayeux in the convents and schools, under the +direction of the nuns of "La Providence." The nuns were sent there at the +end of the seventeenth century, to undertake the supervision of the +work-room founded by the Canon Baucher, in the old church of S. George. In +1747 the Abbé Suhard de Loucelles provided additional rooms for them in a +house in the Faubourg St. Loup, close by the church of Notre Dame de la +Poterie. In a short time more than 400 young women were employed at the two +sets of work-rooms, and in 1758 the aldermen of the town presented to the +intendant of the province a pair of thread lace cuffs, which, according to +the accounts of the municipality, cost 144 livres. It was not until 1740 +that a commercial house was established by M. Clément; from which period +the manufacture has rapidly increased, and is now one of the most important +in France. The black laces of Caen, Bayeux, and Chantilly, are alike; the +design and mode of fabrication being identical, it is almost impossible, +for even the most experienced eye, to detect the difference. They are +mostly composed of "piece goods," shawls, dresses, flounces, and veils, +made in small strips, united by the stitch already alluded to, the _point +de raccroc_, to the invention of which Calvados owes her prosperity. This +stitch, invented by a lace-maker named Cahanet, admits of putting a number +of hands on the same piece, whereas, under the old system, not more than +two could work at the same time. A scarf, which would formerly have taken +two women six months to complete, divided into segments, can now be +finished by ten women in one. (Plate LIX.) + +About 1827, Madame Carpentier caused silk blonde again to be made for +French consumption, the fabric having died out. Two years later she was +succeeded by M. Auguste Lefébure, by whom the making of "blondes mates" for +exportation was introduced with such success, that Caen, who had applied +herself wholly to this manufacture, almost gave up the competition. +Mantillas (Spanish, Havanese, and Mexican), in large quantities, were +exported to Spain, Mexico and the Southern Seas, and were superior to those +made in Catalonia. This manufacture requires the greatest care, as it is +necessary to throw aside the French taste, and adopt the heavy, overcharged +patterns appropriate to the costumes and fashions of the countries for +which they are destined. These mantillas have served as models for the +imitation made at Nottingham. (Plate LXI.) + +PLATE LXI. + +[Illustration: FRENCH. BLONDE MATE, IN SPANISH STYLE.--Nineteenth century. +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 226._ + +{227}[Illustration: Fig. 103. + +MODERN BLACK LACE OF BAYEUX.--Much reduced.] + +To the exertions of M. Lefébure is due the great improvement in the +teaching of the lace schools. Formerly the apprentices were consigned to +the care of some aged lace-maker, probably of deficient eyesight; he, on +the contrary, {228}placed them under young and skilful forewomen, and the +result has been the rising up of a generation of workers who have given to +Bayeux a reputation superior to all in Calvados. It is the first fabric for +large pieces of extra fine quality and rich designs; and as the point +d'Alençon lace has also been introduced into the city, Bayeux excels +equally at the pillow and the needle (Figs. 103 and 104). + +Messrs. Lefébure have also most successfully reproduced the Venetian point +in high relief; the raised flowers are executed with great beauty and the +picots rendered with great precision. The discovery of the way in which +this complicated point lace was made has been the work of great patience. +It is called "Point Colbert." See page 188. + +In 1851 there were in Calvados 60,000 lace-workers, spread along the +sea-coast to Cherbourg, where the nuns of La Providence have an +establishment. It is only by visiting the district that an adequate idea +can be formed of the resources this work affords to the labouring classes, +thousands of women deriving from it their sole means of subsistence.[614] + +Bayeux is now the centre for high-class lace-making in France. M. Lefébure +considers that the fichus, mantillas, etc., that are made of fine white +thread in the country round Bayeux have all the suppleness and softness +which contribute to the charm of Mechlin lace, to which they have a close +affinity. + + +BRETAGNE. + +No record of lace-making occurs in Bretagne, though probably the Normandy +manufacturers extended westward along the coast. At all events, the wearing +of it was early adopted. + +[Illustration: Fig. 104. + +POINT COLBERT.--Venetian point in relief reproduced by M. Lefébure. + +_To face page 228._] + +{229}Embroidered tulle or point d'esprit was made in Brittany as in +Denmark, and around Genoa, where its production still continues. +Embroidered muslins with open-work lace stitches were also made in Brittany +during the eighteenth century, and called Broderie des Indes, after the +Indian muslin scarfs that were brought to Europe at that date, and set the +fashion. + +There is a popular ballad of the province, 1587, on "Fontenelle le +Ligueur," one of the most notorious partizans of the League in Bretagne. He +has been entrapped at Paris, and while awaiting his doom, sends his page to +his wife, with these words (we spare our readers the Breton dialect):-- + + "Page, mon page, petit page, va vite à Coadelan et dis à la pauvre + héritière[615] de ne plus porter des dentelles. + + "De ne plus porter des dentelles, parce que son pauvre époux est en + peine. Toi, rapporte-moi une chemise à mettre, et un drap pour + m'ensevelir."[616] + +One singular custom prevails among the ancient families in Bretagne; a +bride wears her lace-adorned dress but twice--once on her wedding-day, and +only again at her death, when the corse lies in state for a few hours +before its placing in the coffin. After the marriage ceremony the bride +carefully folds away her dress[617] in linen of the finest homespun, +intended for her winding sheet, and each year, on the anniversary of the +wedding-day, fresh sprigs of lavender and rosemary are laid upon it until +the day of mourning. + + + + +{230}CHAPTER XVII. + +VALENCIENNES (DÉP. DU NORD). + + "Ils s'attachoient à considerer des tableaux de petit point de la + manufacture de Valencienne qui representoient des fleurs, et comme ils + les trouvoient parfaitement beaux, M. de Magelotte, leur hôte, vouloit + les leur donner, mais ils ne les acceptèrent point."--1686. _Voyage des + Ambassadeurs de Siam._ + + +Part of the ancient province of Hainault, Valenciennes, together with Lille +and Arras, is Flemish by birth, French only by conquest and treaty.[618] + +Its lace manufacture has been supposed to date from the fifteenth century, +its first productions being attributed to Pierre Chauvin and Ignace Harent, +who employed a three-thread twisted flax. This early date, however, is +probably not correct. It is more probable that Valenciennes developed from +and took the place of the lace-making foundation of Colbert at Le Quesnoy. +The lace of Le Quesnoy is never mentioned after Louis XIV., whereas after +that reign Valenciennes comes into notice. It reached its climax from 1725 +to 1780, when there were from 3,000 to 4,000 lace-makers in the city alone. + +One of the finest known specimens of the earlier fabric is a lace-bordered +alb,[619] belonging to the ladies of the Convent of the Visitation,[620] at +Le Puy. The lace is 28 inches wide, consisting of three breadths, entirely +of white thread, very fine, though thick. The solid pattern, which with its +flowers and scrolls partakes of the character of the Renaissance, comes out +well from the clear réseau ground. + +[Illustration: Fig. 105. + +VALENCIENNES.--1650-1730 + +_To face page 230._] + +{231}From 1780 downwards, fashion changed. The cheaper and lighter laces of +Brussels, Lille, and Arras, obtained the preference over the costly and +more substantial products of Valenciennes--les éternelles Valenciennes, as +they were called--while the subsequent disappearance of ruffles from the +costume of the men greatly added to the evil. Valenciennes fell with the +monarchy. During the war of liberty, foreign occupation decimated its +population, and the art became nearly lost. In 1790, the number of +lace-workers had diminished to 250; and, though Napoleon used every effort +to revive the manufacture, he was unsuccessful. In 1851 there were only two +lace-makers remaining, and they both upwards of eighty years of age. + +The lace made in the city alone was termed "Vraie Valenciennes," and +attained a perfection unrivalled by the productions of the villages beyond +the walls. In the lace accounts of Madame du Barry we find constant mention +of this term.[621] "Vraie Valenciennes" appears constantly in +contradistinction to "bâtarde"[622] and "fausse," simply leading us to +suppose that the last-mentioned appellations signify the laces fabricated +in the neighbourhood. In support of this assertion, M. Dieudonné +writes:[623] "This beautiful manufacture is so inherent in the place, that +it is an established fact, if a piece of lace were begun at Valenciennes +and finished outside the walls, the part which had not been made at +Valenciennes would be visibly less beautiful and less perfect than the +other, though continued by the same lace-maker with the same thread, and +upon the same pillow."[624] + +{232}[Illustration: Fig. 106. + +VALENCIENNES.--Period Louis XIV.] + +PLATE LXII. + +[Illustration: VALENCIENNES.--Three specimens of seventeenth and eighteenth +century. Arranged by age, the oldest at the top, which was made for a royal +personage, with the initials E. P.; it is now the property of Mr. Arthur +Blackborne. Widths of the middle and lower pieces 1½ and 2½ in. + +Photos by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 232._ + +{233}The extinction of the fabric and its transfer to Belgium has been a +great commercial loss to France. Valenciennes, being specially a "dentelle +linge," is that of which the greatest quantity is consumed throughout the +universe. Valenciennes lace is altogether made upon the pillow, with one +kind of thread for the pattern and the ground (Fig. 106). No lace is so +expensive to make, from the number of bobbins required, and the flax used +was of the finest quality. The city-made lace was remarkable for the beauty +of its ground, the richness of its design, and evenness of its tissue. Its +mesh is square or diamond-shaped, and it has no twisted sides; all are +closely plaited. The ornament is not picked out with a cordonnet, as is the +case with Mechlin; but, like Mechlin, the ground went through various +modifications, including the "fond de neige," before the réseau was finally +fixed. From their solidity, "les belles et éternelles Valenciennes" became +an heirloom in each family. A mother bequeathed them to her daughter as she +would now her jewels or her furs.[625] The lace-makers worked in +underground cellars, from four in the morning till eight at night, scarcely +earning their tenpence a day. The pattern was the especial property of the +manufacturer; it was at the option of the worker to pay for its use and +retain her work, if not satisfied with the price she received. This lace +was generally made by young girls; it did not accord with the habits of the +"mère bourgeoise" either to abandon her household duties or to preserve the +delicacy of hand requisite for the work. It may be inferred, also, that no +eyes could support for a number of years the close confinement to a cellar: +many of the women are said to have become almost blind previous to +attaining the age of thirty. It was a great point when the whole piece was +executed by the same lace-worker. "All by the same hand," we find entered +in the bills of the lace-sellers of the time.[626] + +The labour of making "vraie Valenciennes" was so great that while the Lille +lace-workers could produce from three to five ells a day, those of +Valenciennes could not complete more than an inch and a half in the same +time. Some lace-workers only made half an ell (24 inches) in a {234}year, +and it took ten months, working fifteen hours a day, to finish a pair of +men's ruffles--hence the costliness of the lace.[627] A pair of ruffles +would amount to 4,000 livres, and the "barbes pleines,"[628] as a lady's +cap was then termed, to 1,200 livres and upwards. + +[Illustration: Fig. 107. + +VALENCIENNES.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 108. + +VALENCIENNES LAPPET.--Period Louis XVI. + +_To face page 234._] + +{235}The Valenciennes of 1780 was of a quality far superior to any made in +the present century. The réseau was fine and compact, the flower resembling +cambric in its texture; the designs still betraying the Flemish origin of +the fabric--tulips, carnations, iris, or anemones--such as we see in the +old Flemish flower-pieces, true to nature, executed with Dutch exactness +(Fig. 108). The city owed not its prosperity to the rich alone; the +peasants themselves were great consumers of its produce. A woman laid by +her earnings for years to purchase a "bonnet en vraie Valenciennes," some +few of which still appear in the northern provinces of France at church +festivals and holidays. These caps are formed of three pieces, "barbes, +passe, et fond." The Norman women also loved to trim the huge fabric with +which they overcharge their heads with a real Valenciennes; and even in the +present day of "bon marché" a peasant woman will spend from 100 to 150 +francs on a cap which is to last her for life. + +The last important piece made within the city walls was a head-dress of +"vraie Valenciennes" presented by the city to the Duchesse de Nemours, on +her marriage in 1840. It was furnished by Mademoiselle Ursule Glairo, +herself an aged lady, who employed the few old lace-workers then living, +with the patriotic wish of exhibiting the perfection of the ancient +manufacture.[629] + + +LILLE (DÉP. DU NORD). + + "Ces points couppés, passements et dentelles, + Las! qui venoient de l'Isle et de Bruxelles." + --_Consolation des Dames._ 1620. + +The fabrics of Lille and Arras are identical; both make white lace with +single grounds (fond simple); but the productions of Lille are far superior +to those of Arras in quality. The manufacture of the capital of French +Flanders vies with those of the Netherlands in antiquity. As early as 1582 +its lace-makers are described, at the entry of the Duke of Anjou into the +city, "as wearing a special costume. A gown of striped stuff, with a cap of +fine linen plaited in small flutes." A silver medal suspended from the neck +by a black ribbon completed a dress which has descended to the nineteenth +century.[630] The peace of Aix-la-Chapelle having transferred Lille to +France, many of its artizans retired to {236}Ghent; they are described at +that period as making both white and black lace.[631] The art, however, did +not die out, for in 1713,[632] on the marriage of the Governor, young +Boufflers, to Mademoiselle de Villeroi, the magistrates of Lille presented +him with lace to the value of 4,000 livres.[633] + +[Illustration: Fig. 109. + +LILLE.] + +The beauty of the Lille lace is its ground, called "Point de Lille," or +fond clair, "the finest, lightest, most {237}transparent, and best made of +all grounds."[634] The work is simple, consisting of the ground, with a +thick thread to mark the pattern[635] (Fig. 109). Instead of the sides of +the mesh being plaited, as in Valenciennes, or partly plaited, partly +twisted, as in Brussels and Mechlin, four of the sides are formed by +twisting two threads round each other, and the remaining two sides by +simple crossing of the threads over each other. In the eighteenth century +more than two-thirds of the lace-making population of Europe made it under +the name of mignonettes and blondes de fil. + +The "treille"[636] was finer in the last century; but in 1803 the price of +thread having risen 30 per cent.,[637] the lace-makers, unwilling to raise +the prices of their lace, adopted a larger treille, in order to diminish +the quantity of thread required. + +The straight edge and stiff pattern of the old Lille lace is well known +(Fig. 110). + +The laces of Lille, both black and white, have been much used in France: +though Madame Junot speaks disparagingly of the fabric,[638] the light +clear ground rendered them especially adapted for summer wear. + +They found great favour also in England, into which country one-third of +the lace manufactured throughout the Département du Nord was smuggled in +1789.[639] The broad black Lille lace has always been specially admired, +and was extensively used to trim the long silk mantles of the eighteenth +century.[640] + +{238}In 1788 there were above 16,000 lace-makers at Lille, and it made +120,000 pieces[641] of lace, representing a value of more than £160,000. In +1851 the number of lace-makers was reduced to 1,600; it is still gradually +diminishing, from the competition of the fabric of Mirecourt and the +numerous other manufactures established at Lille, which offer more +lucrative wages than can be obtained by lace-making. + +[Illustration: Fig. 110. + +LILLE.] + +The old straight-edged is no longer made, but the rose pattern of the +Mechlin is adopted, and the style of that lace copied: the semé of little +square dots (_points d'esprit_) on the ground--one of the characteristics +of Lille lace--is still retained. In 1862 Mrs. Palliser saw at Lille a +complete garniture of beautiful workmanship, ordered for a trousseau at +Paris, but the commercial crisis and the revolutions of 1848 virtually put +an end to the lace industry of Lille and Arras. + + +{239}ARRAS (ARTOIS) (DÉP. PAS-DE-CALAIS). + + "Arras of ryche arraye, + Fresh as floures in Maye."--Skelton. + +Arras, from the earliest ages, has been a working city. Her citizens were +renowned for the tapestries which bore their name: the nuns of her convents +excelled in all kinds of needlework. In the history of the Abbaye du +Vivier,[642] we are told how the abbess, Madame Sainte, dite la Sauvage, +set the sisters to work ornaments for the church:-- + + "Les filles dans l'ouvroir tous les jours assemblées + N'y paroissent pas moins que l'Abbesse zelées, + Celle cÿ d'une aiguille ajuste au petit point + Un bel etuy d'autel que l'eglise n'a point, + Broche d'or et de soÿe un voile de Calice; + L'autre fait un tapis du point de haute lice, + Dont elle fait un riche et precieux frontal; + Une autre coud une aube, ou fait un corporal; + Une autre une chasuble, ou chappe nompareille, + Où l'or, l'argent, la soÿe, arrangés à merveille, + Representant des saints vestus plus richement + Que leur eclat n'auroit souffert de leur vivant; + L'autre de son Carreau detachant la dentelle, + En orne les surplis de quelque aube nouvelle." + +Again, among the first rules of the institution of the "Filles de +Sainte-Agnès," in the same city, it is ordained that the girls "aprendront +a filer ou coudre, faire passement, tapisseries ou choses semblables."[643] + +The Emperor Charles V. is said, however, to have first introduced the lace +manufacture into Arras.[644] Arras was one of the seats of Colbert's +manufactures, probably of the Flemish bobbin lace. It flourished in the +eighteenth century, when, writes Arthur Young, in 1788, were made "coarse +thread laces, which find a good market in England. The lace-workers earn +from 12 to 15 sous." Peuchet corroborates this statement. "Arras," he +says, {240}"fait beaucoup de mignonette et entoilage, dont on consomme +boucoup en Angleterre." The fabric of Arras attained its climax during the +Empire (1804 to 1812), since which period it has declined. In 1851 there +were 8,000 lace-makers in a radius of eight miles round the city, their +salary not exceeding 65 centimes a day. In 1881, however, the trade had +enormously decreased, only one house making a speciality of the old +patterns. The old Arras laces are now no more. + +[Illustration: Fig. 111. + +ARRAS.--Modern.] + +There is little, or, indeed, no variety in the pattern of Arras lace; for +years it produced the same style and design. As a consequence of this, the +lace-makers, from always executing the same pattern, acquired great +rapidity. Though not so fine as that of Lille, the lace of Arras has three +good qualities: it is very strong, firm to the touch, and perfectly white; +hence the great demand for both home and foreign consumption, no other lace +having this triple merit at so reasonable a price (Fig. 111). + +The gold lace of Arras appears also to have had a reputation. We find among +the coronation expenses of George I. a charge for 354 yards of Arras lace +"atrebaticæ lacinæ."[645] + + +{241}BAILLEUL (DÉP. DU NORD). + +As already mentioned, up to 1790 the "vraie Valenciennes" was only made in +the city of that name. The same lace manufactured at Lille, Bergues, +Bailleul, Avesnes, Cassel, Armentières, as well as that of Belgium, was +called "Fausses Valenciennes." "Armentières et Bailleul ne font que de la +Valencienne fausse, dans tous les prix," writes Peuchet. "On nomme," states +another author,[646] "fausses Valenciennes la dentelle de même espèce, +inférieure en qualité, fabriquée moins serrée, dont le dessin est moins +recherché et le toilé des fleurs moins marqué." Of such is the lace of +Bailleul,[647] whose manufacture is the most ancient and most important, +extending to Hazebrouck, Bergues, Cassel, and the surrounding +villages.[648] + +Previous to 1830, Bailleul fabricated little besides straight edges for the +Normandy market. In 1832 the scalloped edge was adopted, and from this +period dates the progress and present prosperity of the manufacture. Its +laces are not much esteemed in Paris. They have neither the finish nor +lightness of the Belgian products, are soft to the touch, the mesh round, +and the ground thick; but it is strong and cheap, and in general use for +trimming lace. The lace, too, of Bailleul, is the whitest and cleanest +Valenciennes made; hence it is much sought after, for exportation to +America and India. The patterns are varied and in good taste; and there is +every reason to expect that in due time it may attain the perfection, if +not of the Valenciennes of Ypres, at least to that of Bruges, which city +alone annually sends to France lace to the value of from £120,000 to +£160,000. + + + + +{242}CHAPTER XVIII. + +AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY. + +---- + +LE PUY (DÉP. HAUTE-LOIRE). + +As early as the fifteenth century the countrywomen from the mountains of +the Vélay would congregate together during the winter within the walls of +the neighbouring cities, and there, forming themselves into companies, gain +their subsistence by making coarse lace to ornament the albs of the +priests, the rochets of the bishops, and the petticoats of ladies of +quality. And very coarse and tasteless were these early products, to judge +from the specimens which remain tacked on to faded altar-cloths, still to +be met with in the province, a mixture of netting and darning without +design. They also made what was termed "dentelles de menage" with the +coarse thread they used for weaving their cloth. They edged their linen +with it, and both bleached together in the wearing. + +The lace region of Central France, of which Le Puy is the centre, is +considered to be the most ancient and considerable in France. It is +distributed over the four departments,[649] and employs from 125,000 to +130,000 women. It forms the sole industry of the Haute-Loire, in which +department alone are 70,000 lace-makers. + +The lace industry of Le Puy, like all others, has experienced various +changes; it has had its trials[650] and its periods of great +prosperity.[651] In the chronicles of Le Puy of the sixteenth century[652] +we read that the merciers of Notre-Dame {243}des Anges "qui, suivant +l'usage faisaient dans notre ville le commerce des passementeries, +broderies, dentelles, etc., comptaient alors quarante boutiques, et qu'ils +figurent avec enseignes et torches au premier rang dans les solennités +religieuses." + +Judging from local documents, this manufacture has for more than two +centuries back formed the chief occupation of the women of this province. + +It suffered from the sumptuary edicts of 1629, 1635 and 1639, and in 1640 +threatened to be annihilated altogether. In the month of January of that +year, the Seneschal of Le Puy published throughout the city a decree of the +Parliament of Toulouse, which forbade, under pain of heavy fine, all +persons of whatever sex, quality, or condition, to wear upon their +vestments any lace "tant de soie que de fil blanc, ensemble passement, +clinquant d'or ni d'argent fin ou faux;" thus by one ordinance annihilating +the industry of the province. The reason for this absurd edict was twofold: +first, in consequence of the large number of women employed in the lace +trade, there was great difficulty in obtaining domestic servants; secondly, +the general custom of wearing lace among all classes caused the shades of +distinction between the high and low to disappear. These ordinances, as may +be imagined, created great consternation throughout Le Puy. Father Régis, a +Jesuit, who was then in the province, did his best to console the sufferers +thus reduced to beggary by the caprice of Parliament. "Ayez confiance en +Dieu," he said; "la dentelle ne perira pas." He set out to Toulouse, and by +his remonstrances obtained a revocation of the edict. Nor did he rest +satisfied with his good work. At his suggestion the Jesuits opened to the +Auvergne laces a new market in Spain and the New World, which, until the +year 1790, was the occasion of great prosperity to the province. The Jesuit +Father, who died in December 1640, was later canonised for his good deeds; +and under his new appellation of Saint François Régis, is still held in the +greatest veneration by the women of Auvergne--as the patron saint of the +lace-makers. + +Massillon, when bishop of Clermont (1717), greatly patronised the +lace-makers of his diocese, and, anxious that the province should itself +furnish the thread used in the manufacture, he purchased a quantity of +spinning-wheels, which he distributed among the poor families of +Beauregard, {244}the village in which the summer palace of the bishop, +previous to the Revolution, was situated. + +The lace trade of this province frequently appears on the scene during the +eighteenth century. In 1707 the manufacturers demand a remission of the +import duties of 1664 as unfair,[653] and with success. Scarce ten years +afterwards,[654] notwithstanding the privilege accorded, we again find them +in trouble; whether their patterns did not advance with the fashions of the +day, or the manufacturers deteriorated the quality of the thread--too often +the effect of commercial prosperity--the shops were filled with lace, +"propres, les unes pour l'Italie, d'autres pour les mers du Sud," which the +merchants refused to buy. To remedy this bad state of affairs, the +commissioners assembled at Montpelier coolly decide that the diocese should +borrow 60,000 livres to purchase the dead stock, and so clear the market. +After some arguments the lace was bought by the Sieur Jerphanion, Syndic of +the diocese. + +Prosperity, however, was not restored, for in 1755 we again hear of a grant +of 1,000 livres, payable in ten years by the States of Vélay, for the +relief of the distressed lace-makers, and again a fresh demand for +exemption of the export duty.[655] This is declared in a memorial of 1761 +to be the chief cause of the distress, which memorial also states that, to +employ the people in a more lucrative way, a manufacture of blondes and +silk laces had been introduced. This distress is supposed to have been +somewhat exaggerated by the merciers of Le Puy, whose profits must have +been very considerable; the women, according to Arthur Young, earning only +from four to eight sous daily. + +Peuchet, with his predecessor, Savary, and other writers on statistics, +describe the manufacture of Le Puy as the most flourishing in France. "Her +lace," writes Peuchet, "resembles greatly that of Flanders; much is +consumed in the {245}French dominions, and a considerable quantity exported +to Spain, Portugal, Germany, Italy and England. Much thread lace is also +expedited by way of Cadiz to Peru and Mexico. The ladies of these countries +trim their petticoats and other parts of their dress with such a profusion +of lace as to render the consumption 'prodigieuse.'" "Les Anglois en +donnent des commissions en contrebande pour l'Isthmus de Panama. Les +Hollandois en demandent aussi et faisaient expédier à Cadiz à leur +compte."[656] We read, however, after a time, that the taste for a finer +description of lace having penetrated to Mexico and Peru, the commerce of +Le Puy had fallen off, and that from that epoch the work-people had +supported themselves by making blondes and black lace. The thread used in +Auvergne comes from Haarlem, purchased either from the merchants of Rouen +or Lyons. In the palmy days of Le Puy her lace-workers consumed annually to +the amount of 400,000 livres. The laces made for exportation were of a +cheap quality, varying from edgings of 30 sous to 45 livres the piece of 12 +ells; of these the annual consumption amounted to 1,200,000 livres.[657] It +may indeed be said that, with the exception of the period of the French +Revolution to 1801, the lace trade of Le Puy has ever been prosperous. + +Formerly they only made at Le Puy laces which had each a distinctive +name--ave, pater, chapelets, mie, serpent, bonnet, scie, etc. + +Le Puy now produces every description of lace, white and coloured, silk, +thread, and worsted, blondes of all kinds, black of the finest grounds, +application, double and single grounds; from gold and silver lace to +edgings of a halfpenny a yard, and laces of goats' and Angora rabbits' +hairs. + +In 1847 more than 5,000 women were employed in making Valenciennes. They +have also succeeded in producing admirable needle-points, similar to the +ancient Venetian. A dress of this lace, destined to adorn an image of the +Virgin, was shown in the French Exhibition of 1855. + +{246}In 1848 commerce and trade languished, and a cheaper lace was +produced, made of worsted, for shawls and trimmings. This lace was not long +in fashion, but it re-appeared a few years later under the name of "lama," +or "poil de chèvre," when it obtained a great success. The hair of the lama +has never been used. + +Le Puy now offers to the market an infinite variety of lace, and by means +of these novelties her laces successfully compete with those of Saxony, +which alone can rival her in cheapness; but as the patterns of these last +are copied from the laces of Le Puy and Mirecourt, they appear in the +foreign, market after the originals. + +The finest collection of Auvergne lace in the International Exhibition +(1867) was from the fabric of Crâponne (Haute-Loire),[658] established in +1830 by M. Théodore Falcon, to whom Le Puy is indebted for her "musée de +dentelles," containing specimens of the lace of all countries and all ages, +a most useful and instructive collection for the centre of a lace district. +Le Puy has also a lace school, numbering a hundred pupils, and a school of +design for lace patterns, founded in 1859.[659] + + +AURILLAC AND MURAT (DÉP. CANTAL). + +"L'on fait à Orillac les dentelles quit ont vogue dans le royaume," writes, +in 1670, the author of the _Délices de la France_.[660] The origin of the +fabric is assigned to the fourteenth century, when a company of emigrants +established themselves at Cuença and Valcameos, and nearly all the points +of Aurillac were exported into Spain through this company. In 1688 there +was sold on the Place at Marseilles annually to the amount of 350,000 +livres of the products of Aurillac, with other fine laces of Auvergne.[661] +In 1726 the produce was already reduced to 200,000 livres. The finest +"points de France," writes Savary, were made at Aurillac and Murat, the +former alone at one time producing to the annual value of 700,000 francs +(£28,000), and giving occupation to from 3,000 to 4,000 lace-workers. + +[Illustration: PLATE LXIII. + +PLATE LXIV. + +FRENCH.--Two specimens bought in France as Cambrai. They are typical of +Northern French laces that became naturalised in England after the French +Revolution. Widths, 2½ and 3½ in. + +Photos by A. Dryden from private collection.] + +PLATE LXV. + +[Illustration: FRENCH. BOBBIN-MADE.--From the environs of Le Puy. Period +Louis XIII.-Louis XIV. Now made and called Guipure de Cluny. + +In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.] + +_To face page 246_ + +{247}An attempt to establish a "bureau" for Colbert's new manufacture of +points de France was at first opposed, as we read: "Les trois femmes +envoyées par les entrepreneurs pour établir cette manufacture furent +attaqués dans les rues d'Aurillac. Les ouvrières de cette ville leur disait +'qu'elles prouvaient s'en retourner, parce qu'elles savaient mieux +travailler qu'elles.'"[662] + +The lace-makers would not give up what the intendant terms "the wretched +old point," which M. Henri Duref, the historian of the Département de +Cantal, describes, on the contrary, as consisting of rich flowered designs, +such as may be seen by studying the portraits of many Auvergnat noblemen of +the period. There are various letters on the subject in the Colbert +Correspondence; and in the last from Colbert, 1670, he writes that the +point d'Aurillac is improving, and there are 8,000 lace-women at work. It +appears that he established at Aurillac a manufactory of lace where they +made, upon "des dessins flamands modifiés," a special article, then named +"point Colbert," and subsequently "point d'Aurillac." + +In the Convent of the Visitation at Le Puy is shown the lace-trimming of an +alb, point d'Angleterre. It is 28 inches wide, of white thread, with brides +picotées, of elegant scroll design. If, as tradition asserts, it was made +in the country, it must be the produce of this manufactory. + +It appears that rich "passements," as they are still called in the country, +of gold and silver were made long before the period of Colbert. We find +abundant mention of them in the church inventories of the province, and in +the museum are pieces of rich lace said to have belonged to Francis I. and +his successors which, according to tradition, were the produce of Aurillac. +They are not of wire, but consist of strips of metal twisted round the +silk. + +In the inventory of the sacristy of the Benedictine monastery at St. +Aligre, 1684, there is a great profusion of {248}lace. "Voile de brocard, +fond d'or entouré d'un point d'Espagne d'or et argent;" another, "garni de +dentelles d'or et argent, enrichi de perles fines"; "20 aubes à grandes +dentelles, amicts, lavabos, surplis," etc., all "à grandes ou petites +dentelles."[663] + +In the inventory of Massillon's chapel at Beauregard, 1742, are albs +trimmed with "point d'Aurillac"; veils with "point d'Espagne or et +argent."[664] + +Lacis was also made at Aurillac, and some specimens are still preserved +among the old families there. The most interesting dates from the early +seventeenth century, and belongs to the Chapel of Notre Dame at Thierzac, +where Anne of Austria made a pilgrimage in 1631, and which, by the +mutilated inscription on a piece of the work, would appear to refer to her. + +Mazarin held the Aurillac laces in high estimation, and they are frequently +met with in the inventory of the effects he left on his death in 1660. +Again, in the account of a masked ball, as given in the _Mercure Galant_ of +1679, these points find honourable mention. The Prince de Conti is +described as wearing a "mante de point d'Aurillac or et argent." The Comte +de Vermandois, a veste edged with the same; while Mademoiselle de Blois has +"ses voiles de point d'Aurillac d'argent," and of the Duchesse de Mortemart +it is said, "On voyait dessous ses plumes un voile de point d'Aurillac or +et argent qui tomboit sur ses 'épaules.'" The Chevalier Colbert, who +appeared in an African costume, had "des manches pendantes" of the same +material. + +The same _Mercure_ of April, 1681, speaking of the dress of the men, says, +"La plupart portent des garnitures d'une richesse qui empeschera que les +particuliers ne les imitent, puisqu'elles reviennent à 50 louis. Ces +garnitures sont de point d'Espagne ou d'Aurillac." From the above notices, +as well as from the fact that the greater part of these laces were sent +into Spain, it appears that point d'Aurillac was a rich gold and silver +lace, similar to the point d'Espagne. + +The laces of Murat (Dép. Haute-Garonne) were "façon de {249}Malines et de +Lille." They were also made at La Chaise Dieu, Alenches, and Verceilles. +Those points were greatly esteemed, and purchased by the wholesale traders +of Le Puy and Clermont, who distributed them over the kingdom through their +colporteurs. + +The fabrics of Aurillac and Murat ended with the Revolution. The women, +finding they could earn more as domestic servants in the neighbouring +towns, on the restoration of order, never again returned to their ancient +occupation. + + + + +{250}CHAPTER XIX. + +LIMOUSIN. + + +In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, a kind of pillow net (torchon +entoilage, Mr. Ferguson calls it)[665] for women's sleeves was manufactured +at Tulle (Corrèze) and also at Aurillac. From this circumstance many +writers have derived tulle, the French name for bobbin net, from this town. +M. Lefébure is of this opinion, and adduces in favour of it the fact that +lace was made at Tulle in the eighteenth century, and that an account of +1775 mentions certain Mesdemoiselles Gantes as lace-makers in that town. + +The first dictionary in which the word "tulle" occurs is the French +Encyclopædia of 1765, where we find, "Tulle, une espèce de dentelle commune +mais plus ordinairement ce qu'on appelait entoilage."[666] Entoilage, as we +have already shown, is the plain net ground upon which the pattern is +worked[667] or a plain net used to widen points or laces, or worn as a +plain border. In Louis XV.'s reign Madame de Mailly is described, after she +had retired from the world, as "sans rouge, sans poudre, et, qui plus est, +sans dentelles, attendu qu'elle ne portait plus que de l'entoilage à bord +plat."[668] We read in the _Tableau de Paris_ how "Le tul, la gaz et le +marli ont occupés cent mille mains." Tulle was made on the pillow in +Germany before lace was introduced. If tulle derived its name from any +town, it would more probably be from Toul, celebrated, as all others in +Lorraine, for its embroidery; and as net resembles the stitches made in +embroidery by separating the threads (hemstitch, etc.), it {251}may have +taken its French name, Tulle, German Tüll, from the points de Tulle of the +workwomen of the town of Toul, called in Latin Tullum, or Tullo.[669] + + +LORRAINE. + +The lace[670] manufactures of Lorraine flourished in the seventeenth +century. Mirecourt (Dép. Vosges) and the villages of its environs, +extending to the department of Meurthe, was the great centre of this trade, +which formed the sole occupation of the countrywomen. For some centuries +the lace-workers employed only hempen thread, spun in the environs of +Épinal, and especially at Châtel-sur-Moselle.[671] From this they produced +a species of coarse guipure termed "passament," or, in the patois of the +province, "peussemot."[672] + +As early as the seventeenth century they set aside this coarse article and +soon produced a finer and more delicate lace with various patterns: they +now made double ground and mignonette; and at Lunéville (Dép. Meurthe), +"dentelles à l'instar de Flandre." In 1715 an edict of Duke Leopold +regulates the manufacture at Mirecourt.[673] The lace was exported to Spain +and the Indies. It found its way also to Holland, the German States, and +England, where Randle Holme mentions "Points of Lorraine, without +raisings."[674] + +The Lorraine laces were mostly known in commerce as {252}"Les dentelles de +Saint-Mihiel," from the town of that name, one of the chief places of the +fabric. These last-named laces were much esteemed on their first +appearance. Previous to the union of Lorraine to France in 1766, there were +scarcely 800 lace-makers in Mirecourt. The number amounted to nearly 25,000 +in 1869.[675] + +Early in the nineteenth century the export trade gave place to more +extensive dealings with France. "Point de Flandres" was then very much +made, the patterns imported by travelling merchants journeying on their way +to Switzerland. Anxious to produce novelty, the manufacturers of Mirecourt +wisely sent for draughtsmen and changed the old patterns. Their success was +complete. They soon became formidable rivals to Lille, Geneva, and the Val +de Travers (Switzerland). Lille now lowered her prices, and the Swiss lace +trade sank in the contest. + +Scarcely any but white lace is made; the patterns are varied and in +excellent taste, the work similar to that of Lille and Arras. + +Some few years since the making of application flowers was attempted with +success at Mirecourt, and though it has not yet attained the perfection of +the Brussels sprigs, yet it daily improves, and bids fair to supply France +with a production for which she now pays Belgium £120,000 annually. The +Lorraine application possesses one advantage over those of Flanders, the +flowers come from the hands of the lace-makers clean and white, and do not +require bleaching.[676] The price, too, is most moderate. The production +which of late years has been of the most commercial value is the Cluny +lace, so called from the first patterns being copied from specimens of old +lace in the Musée de Cluny. The immense success of this lace has been +highly profitable to Mirecourt and Le Puy. + +{253}The wages of the 24,000 lace-workers averaging eightpence a day, their +annual products are estimated at £120,000. Much of the Lorraine lace is +consumed at Paris and in the interior of France; the rest is exported to +America, the East Indies, and the different countries of Europe. + + +CHAMPAGNE. + +The Ardennes lace was generally much esteemed, especially the "points de +Sedan," which derived their name from the city where they were +manufactured.[677] Not only were points made there, but, to infer from the +Great Wardrobe Account of Charles I., the cut-work of Sedan had then +reached our country, and was of great price. We find in one account[678] a +charge for "six handsome Sedan and Italian collars of cut-work, and for 62 +yards of needlework purl for six pairs of linen ruffs" the enormous sum of +£116 6s. And again, in the last year of his reign, he has "six handsome +Pultenarian Sedan collars of cut-work, with the same accompaniment of 72 +yards of needlework purl" amounting to £106 16s.[679] What these +Pultenarian collars may have been we cannot, at this distance of time, +surmise; but the entries afford proof that the excellency of the Sedan +cut-work was known in England. Rheims, Château-Thierry and Sedan are +mentioned among the other towns in the ordinance establishing the points de +France in 1665. In less than four months Rheims numbered a hundred and +forty workers, consisting of Venetians and Flemings, with seven from Paris +and the natives of the place. In 1669 the number had fallen to sixty, in +consequence of the price demanded for their board and lodging. Their lace +was remarkable for its whiteness. Lace was made in the seventeenth century +at Sedan, Donchéry, Charleville, Mézières, Troyes and Sens. + +The thread manufacturers of Sedan furnished the material {254}necessary for +all the lace-workers of Champagne. Much point de Sedan was made at +Charleville, and the laces of this last-named town[680] were valued at from +four up to fifty livres the ell, and even sometimes at a higher rate. The +greater part of the produce was sold in Paris, the rest found a ready +market in England, Holland, Germany, and Poland.[681] Pignariol de la +Force, writing later, says the manufacture of points and laces at Sedan, +formerly so flourishing, is now of little value.[682] + +Most of its lace-makers, being Protestants, emigrated after the Edict of +Revocation. Château-Renaud and Mézières were chiefly employed in the +manufacture of footings (_engrêlures_).[683] The laces of Donchéry were +similar to those of Charleville, but made of the Holland thread. They were +less esteemed than those of Sedan. A large quantity were exported to Italy +and Portugal; some few found their way to England and Poland. Up to the +Revolution Champagne employed from 5000 to 6000 lace-workers, and their +annual products were estimated at 200,000 fr. During the twelve years of +revolutionary anarchy, all the lace manufactures of this province +disappeared. + +There are differences of opinion as to the exact character of Sedan lace. +M. Séguin considers it to have been a lace inferior in design and +workmanship to point de Venise à réseau. A single thread intervenes between +the pattern and the réseau, instead of the overcast cordonnet of Alençon, +and in other respects it resembles late Venetian needlepoint. Certain +authorities in Brussels, again, claim the point de Sedan as a needle-made +production of Brabant or Liège. M. Lefébure, on the other hand, considers +it as an important variety of Alençon. "The floral devices in points de +Sedan, which are somewhat large and heavy in execution, spring from bold +scroll forms, and in between them are big meshes of the 'grande maille +picotée' of the point de France. Instead of an even and slightly raised +stitching along their contours, these big flowers are accentuated here and +there in well chosen parts by raised stitching, worked somewhat {255}with +the effect of vigorous touches of rather forced high lights in a picture. +These recurrent little mounds of relief, as they may be called, are +frequently introduced with admirable artistic result. The finest bishops' +rochets which appear in the later portraits by Hyacinthe Rigaud and de +Larguillière are of point de Sedan." + +It is possible that both types of lace mentioned--the heavy kind, and the +lace with the réseau--are the productions of Sedan. + + +BURGUNDY. + +Colbert was proprietor of the terre de Seignelay, three leagues from +Auxerre, which caused him to interest himself in establishing +manufactories, and especially that of point de France. In his +Correspondence are twelve letters relating to this manufacture for 1667-74, +but it did not succeed. At last, worn out, he says "the mayor and aldermen +will not avail themselves of the means of prosperity I offer, so I will +leave them to their bad conduct." + +Specimens of a beautifully fine well-finished lace, resembling old Mechlin, +are often to be met with in Belgium (Fig. 112), bearing the traditional +name of "point de Bourgogne," but no record remains of its manufacture. In +the census taken in 1571, giving the names of all strangers in the City of +London, three are cited as natives of Burgundy, knitters and makers of +lace.[684] In the eighteenth century, a manufactory of Valenciennes was +carried on in the hospital at Dijon, under the direction of the magistrates +of the city. It fell towards the middle of the last century, and at the +Revolution entirely disappeared.[685] "Les dentelles sont grosses," writes +Savary, "mais il s'en débite beaucoup en Franche-Comté." + + +{256}LYONNOIS. + +Lyons, from the thirteenth century, made gold and silver laces enriched +with ornaments similar to those of Paris. + +The laces of St. Etienne resembled those of Valenciennes, and were much +esteemed for their solidity. The finest productions were for men's ruffles, +which they fabricated of exquisite beauty. + +A considerable quantity of blonde was made at Meran, a village in the +neighbourhood of Beauvoisin, but the commerce had fallen off at the end of +the last century. These blondes go by the familiar name of "bisettes." + + +ORLÉANOIS. + +Colbert's attempts at establishing a manufactory of point de France at +Montargis appear by his letters to have been unsuccessful. + + +BERRY. + +Nor were the reports from Bourges more encouraging. + + +POITOU. + +Lace was made at Loudun, one of Colbert's foundations, in the seventeenth +century, but the fabric has always been common. "Mignonettes et dentelles à +poignet de chemises, et de prix de toutes espèces," from one sol six +deniers the ell, to forty sols the piece of twelve ells. + +Children began lace-making at a very early age. "Loudun fournit quelques +dentelles communes," says the Government Reporter of 1803.[686] + +[Illustration: Fig. 112. + +POINT DE BOURGOGNE.--Bobbin-made. + +_To face page 256._] + +{257}Peuchet speaks of lace manufactories at Perpignan, Aix, Cahors, +Bordeaux,[687] etc., but they do not appear to have been of any importance, +and no longer exist.[688] + + + + +{258}CHAPTER XX. + +HOLLAND, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY. + +---- + +HOLLAND. + + "A country that draws fifty feet of water, + In which men live as in the hold of nature, + And when the sea does in them break, + And drowns a province, does but spring a leak."--_Hudibras._ + +We know little of the early fabrics of this country. The laces of Holland, +though made to a great extent, were overshadowed by the richer products of +their Flemish neighbours. "The Netherlanders," writes Fynes Moryson, who +visited Holland in 1589, "wear very little lace,[689] and no embroidery. +Their gowns are mostly black, without lace or gards, and their neck-ruffs +of very fine linen." + +We read how, in 1667, France had become the rival of Holland in the trade +with Spain, Portugal and Italy; but she laid such high duties on foreign +merchandise, the Dutch themselves set up manufactures of lace and other +articles, and found a market for their produce even in France.[690] A few +years later, the revocation of the Edict of Nantes[691] caused 4,000 +lace-makers to leave the town of Alençon alone. Many took refuge in +Holland, where, says a writer of the day, "they were treated like artists." +Holland gained more than she lost by Louis XIV. The French refugees founded +a manufactory of that point lace called "dentelle a la Reine"[692] in the +Orphan House at Amsterdam.[693] + +PLATE LXVI. + +[Illustration: WILLIAM, PRINCE OF ORANGE, FATHER OF WILLIAM III., +1627-1650. School of Van Dyck. + +The collar is edged with Dutch lace. National Portrait Gallery. + +Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] + +_To face page 258._ + +{259}A few years later, another Huguenot, Zacharie Châtelain,[694] +introduced into Holland the industry, at that time so important, of making +gold and silver lace. + +The Dutch possessed one advantage over most other nations, especially over +England, in her far-famed Haarlem[695] thread, once considered the best +adapted for lace in the world. "No place bleaches flax," says a writer of +the day,[696] "like the meer of Haarlem."[697] + +Still the points of Holland made little noise in the world. The Dutch +strenuously forbade the entry of all foreign lace, and what they did not +consume themselves they exported to Italy, where the market was often +deficient.[698] Once alone in England we hear tell of a considerable parcel +of Dutch lace seized between Deptford and London from the Rotterdam hoy. +England, however, according to Anderson, in 1764, received in return for +her products from Holland "fine lace, but the balance was in England's +favour." + +In 1770 the Empress Queen (Marie Theresa) published a declaration +prohibiting the importation of Dutch lace into any of her Imperial +Majesty's hereditary dominions in Germany.[699] + +As in other matters, the Dutch carried their love of lace {260}to the +extreme, tying up their knockers with rich point to announce the birth of +an infant. A traveller who visited France in 1691, remarks of his hotel: +"The warming-pans and brasses were not here muffled up in point and +cut-work, after the manner of Holland, for there were no such things to be +seen."[700] + +The Dutch lace most in use was thick, strong and serviceable (Fig. 113). +That which has come under our notice resembles the fine close Valenciennes, +having a pattern often of flowers or fruit strictly copied from nature. +"The ladies wear," remarks Mrs. Calderwood, "very good lace mobs." The +shirt worn by William the Silent when he fell by the assassin is still +preserved at The Hague; it is trimmed with a lace of thick linen stitches, +drawn and worked over in a style familiar to those acquainted with the +earlier Dutch pictures. + + +SAXONY. + + "Here unregarded lies the rich brocade, + There Dresden lace in scatter'd heaps is laid; + Here the gilt china vase bestrews the floor, + While chidden Betty weeps without the door." + --"Eclogue on the death of Shock, a pet lapdog." + _Ladies' Magazine._ 1750. + + "His olive-tann'd complexion graces + With little dabs of Dresden laces; + While for the body Mounseer Puff + Would think e'en dowlas fine enough." + --_French Barber._ 1756. + +[Illustration: Fig. 113. + +DUTCH BOBBIN-LACE.--Eighteenth century. + +_To face page 260._] + +{261}[Illustration: Fig. 114. + +TOMB OF BARBARA UTTMANN, AT ANNABERG.] + +The honour of introducing pillow lace into Germany is accorded by tradition +to Barbara Uttman. She was born in 1514, in the small town of Etterlein, +which derives its name from her family. Her parents, burghers of Nuremburg, +had removed to the Saxon Hartz Mountains, for the purpose of working some +mines. Barbara Etterlein here married a rich master miner named Christopher +Uttmann, of Annaberg. It is said that she learned lace-making from a native +of Brabant, a Protestant, whom the cruelties of the Spaniards had driven +from her country. Barbara had observed the mountain girls occupied in +making a network for the miners to wear over their hair: she took great +interest in the work, and, profiting by the experience derived from her +Brabant teacher, succeeded in making her pupils produce first a fine +knotted tricot, afterwards a kind of plain lace ground. In 1561, having +procured aid from Flanders, she set up, in her own name of Barbara Uttmann, +a workshop at Annaberg, and there began to make laces of various patterns. +This branch of industry soon spread from the Bavarian frontier to Altenberg +and Geissing, giving employment to 30,000 persons, and producing a revenue +of 1,000,000 thalers. Barbara Uttmann died in 1575, leaving sixty-five +children and grandchildren, thus realising a prophecy made previous to her +marriage, that her descendants would equal in number the stitches of the +first lace ground she had made: such prophecies were common in those days. +She sleeps in the churchyard of Annaberg, near the old lime-tree. On her +tomb (Fig. 114) is inscribed: "Here lies Barbara Uttmann, died 14 January, +1575, whose invention {262}of lace in the year 1561 made her the +benefactress of the Erzgebirge." + + "An active mind, a skilful hand, + Bring blessings down on the Fatherland." + +In the Green Vault at Dresden is preserved an ivory statuette of Barbara +Uttmann, four and a half inches high, beautifully executed by Koehler, a +jeweller of Dresden, who worked at the beginning of the eighteenth century. +It is richly ornamented with enamels and precious stones, such figures (of +which there are many in the Green Vault) being favourite articles for +birthday and Christmas gifts. + +Previous to the eighteenth century the nets of Germany had already found a +market in Paris.[701] "On vend," says the _Livre Commode des Adresses_ of +1692, "le treillis d'Allemagne en plusieurs boutiques de la rue Béthizy." + +"Dresden," says Anderson, "makes very fine lace," the truth of which is +confirmed by nearly every traveller of the eighteenth century. We have +reason to believe the so-called Dresden lace was the drawn-work described +in Chapter II., and which was carried to great perfection. + +"Went to a shop at Spaw," writes Mrs. Calderwood, "and bought a pair of +double Dresden ruffles, which are just like a sheaf, but not so open as +yours, for two pounds two." + +"La broderie de Dresde est très connue et les ouvriers très habiles," says +Savary. + +This drawn-work, for such it was, excited the emulation of other nations. +The Anti-Gallican Society in 1753 leads the van, and awards three guineas +as their second prize for ruffles of Saxony.[702] + +[Illustration: Fig. 114A. + +BARBARA UTTMANN, WHO INTRODUCED THE LACE MANUFACTURE INTO THE ERZGEBIRGE. +From an ivory statuette by Koehler, Green Vault, Dresden. + +_To face page 262._] + +{263}Ireland, in 1755, gave a premium of £5 for the best imitation of +"Dresden point," while the Edinburgh Society, following in the wake, a year +later presents to Miss Jenny Dalrymple a gold medal for "the best imitation +of Dresden work in a pair of ruffles." + +In the _Fool of Quality_,[703] and other works from 1760 to 1770, we have +"Dresden aprons," "Dresden ruffles," showing that point to have been in +high fashion. Wraxall, too, 1778, describes a Polish beauty as wearing "a +broad Medicis of Dresden lace." As early as 1760 "Dresden work" is +advertised as taught to young ladies in a boarding-school at Kelso,[704] +together with "shell-work in grottoes, flowers, catgut, working lace on +bobbins or wires, and other useful accomplishments." + +The lace of Saxony has sadly degenerated since the eighteenth century. The +patterns are old and ungraceful, and the lace of inferior workmanship, but, +owing to the low price of labour, they have the great advantage of +cheapness, which enables them to compete with France in the American and +Russian markets. In all parts of Germany there are some few men who make +lace. On the Saxon side of the Erzgebirge many boys are employed, and +during the winter season men of all ages work at the pillow; and it is +observed that the lace made by men is firmer and of a superior quality to +that of the women. The lace is a dentelle torchon of large pattern, much in +the style of the old lace of Ischia.[705] + +The Saxon needle-lace of the present day is made in imitation of old +Brussels, with small flowers on a réseau. Some is worked in coloured +thread, and also black silk lace of the Chantilly type is made: of this the +Erzgebirge is the chief centre. This lace is costly, and is sold at Dresden +and other large towns of Germany, and particularly at Paris, where the +dealers pass it off for old lace. This fabric employed, in 1851, 300 +workers. A quantity of so-called Maltese lace is also made, but torchon +predominates. + +The Museum for Art and Industry, opened at Vienna in 1865, contains several +pattern-books of the sixteenth century, and in it has been exhibited a fine +collection of ancient lace belonging to General von Hauslaub, +Master-General of the Ordnance. + + +{264}GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH). + +Germany in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries was renowned for its +lacis, cut-work, and embroidery with thread on net, of which there are +several good examples in the Victoria and Albert Museum, together with +specimens of early Flemish work from their colonies on the Elbe, +established in the twelfth century by various German rulers. The work of +these towns is of later date--of the fifteenth century--and has continued +to the nineteenth century, when they made cambric caps, embroidered or +ornamented with drawn-work, and edged with bobbin-made Tönder lace, in the +style of eighteenth century Valenciennes. + +"Presque dans toutes sortes d'arts les plus habiles ouvriers, ainsi que les +plus riches négociants, sont de la religion prétendue réformée," said the +Chancellor d'Aguesseau;[706] and when his master, Louis XIV., whom he, in +not too respectful terms, calls "le roi trop crédule," signed the Act of +Revocation (1685), Europe was at once inundated with the most skilful +workmen of France. Hamburg alone of the Hanse Towns received the wanderers. +Lubec and Bremen, in defiance of the remonstrances of the Protestant +princes, allowed no strangers to settle within their precincts. The +emigrants soon established considerable manufactures of gold and silver +lace, and also that now extinct fabric known under the name of Hamburg +point.[707] + +Miss Knight, in her _Autobiography_, notes: "At Hamburg, just before we +embarked, Nelson purchased a magnificent lace trimming for Lady Nelson, and +a black lace cloak for another lady, who, he said, had been very attentive +to his wife during his absence." + +On the very year of the Revocation, Frederic William, Elector of +Brandenburg, anxious to attract the fugitive workmen to his dominions, +issued from Potsdam an edict[708] in their favour. Crowds of French +Protestants responded to the call, and before many years had passed Berlin +alone boasted 450 lace manufactories.[709] Previous to this emigration she +had none. These "mangeurs d'haricots," as the Prussians styled the +emigrants, soon amassed large fortunes, and exported their laces to Poland +and to Russia. The tables were turned. France, who formerly exported lace +in large quantities to Germany, now received it from the hands of her +exiled workmen, and in 1723 and 1734 we find "Arrêts du Conseil d'Etat," +relative to the importation of German laces.[710] + +[Illustration: PLATE LXVII. + +SWISS.--From near Neûchatel. Early nineteenth century. Similar in make to +Lille and some Devon lace.] + +[Illustration: PLATE LXVIII. + +GERMAN, NUREMBERG.--Used by the peasants on their caps. The cordonnet +suggests a Mechlin influence, whilst the heavy réseau is reminiscent of +some Antwerp and Flemish and Italian village laces of the end of the +seventeenth century.] + +PLATE LXIX. + +[Illustration: ENGLISH, BUCKS.--A unique piece designed and made by the +lace-makers for Queen Victoria in the early years of her reign; from her +lady-in-waiting Emma, Lady Portman, it has descended to the present owner, +Mrs. Lloyd Baker. The above is a complete section of the design, which is +outlined with gold thread. + +Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.] + +_To face page 264._ + +{265}The Landgrave of Hesse also received the refugees, publishing an edict +in their favour.[711] Two fabrics of fine point were established at +Hanover.[712] Leipsic, Anspach,[713] Elberfeld, all profited by the +migration. "On compte," writes Peuchet, "à Leipsig cinq fabriques de +dentelles et de galon d'or et argent." + +A large colony settled at Halle, where they made "Hungarian" lace--"Point +de Hongrie,"[714] a term more generally applied to a stitch in +tapestry.[715] The word, however, does occasionally occur:-- + + "Your Hungerland[716] bands and Spanish quellio ruffs, + Great Lords and Ladies, feasted to survey."[717] + +All these various fabrics were offsets of the Alençon trade. + +Fynes Moryson expresses surprise at the simplicity of the German +costume--ruffs of coarse cloth, made at home. The Dantzickers, however, he +adds, dress more richly. "Citizens' daughters of an inferior sort wear +their hair woven with lace stitched up with a border of pearl. Citizens' +wives wear much lace of silk on their petticoats." Dandyism began in +Germany, says a writer,[718] about 1626, when the women first wore silver, +which appeared very remarkable, and "at last indeed white lace." A century +later luxury at the baths of Baden had reached an excess unparalleled in +the {266}present day. The bath mantles, "équipage de bain," of both sexes +are described as trimmed with the richest point, and after the bath were +spread out ostentatiously as a show on the baths before the windows of the +rooms. Lords and ladies, princesses and margraves, loitered up and down, +passing judgment on the laces of each new arrival.[719] + +This love of dress, in some cases, extended too far, for Bishop +Douglas[720] mentions how the Leipsic students "think it more honourable to +beg, with a sword by their side, of all they meet than to gain their +livelihood. I have often," he says, "given a few groschen to one finely +powdered and dressed with sword and lace ruffles." + +Concerning the manufactures of the once opulent cities of Nuremburg and +Augsburg we have no record. In the first-mentioned was published, in 1601, +the model book, engraved on copper, of Sibmacher.[721] On the frontispiece +is depicted a garden of the sixteenth century. From the branches of a tree +hangs a label, informing the world "that she who loves the art of +needlework, and desires to make herself skilful, can here have it in +perfection, and she will acquire praise, honour, and reward." At the foot +of the tree is seated a modest young lady yclept Industria; on the right a +second, feather-fan in hand, called Ignavia--Idleness; on the left a +respectable matron named Sofia--Wisdom. By way of a preface the three hold +a dialogue, reviewing, in most flattering terms, the work. + +A museum was founded in 1865 at Nuremburg for works and objects connected +with the lace manufacture and its history. It contains some interesting +specimens of Nuremburg lace, the work of a certain Jungfrau Pickleman, in +the year 1600, presented by the widow Pfarrer Michel, of Poppenreuth.[722] +The lace is much of the Venetian character. One specimen has the figures of +a knight and a lady, resembling the designs of Vecellio. The museum also +possesses other curious examples of lace, together with a collection of +books relative to the lace fabric. (Plate LXVIII.) + +"In the chapel of St. Egidius at Nuremburg," writes one {267}of our +correspondents, "we were led to make inquiries concerning sundry +ponderous-looking chairs, bearing some resemblance to confessionals, but +wanting the side compartments for the penitents. We learned that they +belonged to the several guilds (Innung), who had undertaken to collect +money for the erection of a new church after the destruction of the old by +fire. For this end the last members sworn in of every trade sat in their +respective chairs at the church doors on every Sunday and holiday. The +offerings were thrown into dishes placed on a raised stand on the right of +the chair, or into the hollow in front. The devices of each trade were +painted or embossed on circular plates, said to be of silver, on the back +of each chair. One Handwerksstuhl in particular attracted our attention; it +was that of the passmenterie-makers (in German, Portenmacher or Posamentier +Handwerk), which, until the handicrafts became more divided, included the +lace-makers. An elegant scroll-pattern in _rilievo_ surrounds the plate, +surmounted by a cherub's head, and various designs, resembling those of the +pattern-books, are embossed in a most finished style upon the plate, +together with an inscription dated 1718." + +Misson, who visited Nuremberg in 1698, describes the dress of a +newly-married pair as rich in the extreme--that of the bridegroom as black, +"fort chargé de dentelles"; the bride as tricked out in the richest +"dentelle antique," her petticoat trimmed with "des tresses d'or et de +dentelle noire." + +In the Victoria and Albert Museum there are two women's ruffs from +Nuremberg belonging to the latter part of the sixteenth or early +seventeenth century, and embroidered in blue and black silk and white +cotton, and edged with a coarse thread Mechlin lace with a large meshed +irregular plaited réseau, probably late seventeenth century. + +Perhaps the finest collection of old German point is preserved, or rather +was so, in 1840, in the palace of the ancient, but now extinct, +Prince-Archbishops of Bamberg. + +Several more pattern-books were published in Germany. Among the most +important is that printed at Augsburg, by John Schwartzenburg, 1534. It is +printed in red, and the patterns, mostly borders, are of delicate and +elegant design. (See APPENDIX.) + +Secondly comes one of later date, published by Sigismund Latomus at +Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605; and lastly, that {268}of "Metrepière Quinty, +demor[=a]t dempre legl[=i]e de iii roies," a cul[=o]ge (Cologne), 1527. + +In Austria, writes Peuchet, "les dentelles de soie et de fil ne sont pas +moins bien travaillées." Many of the Protestant lace-workers took refuge in +the cities of Freyburg and Altenburg. + +There is a collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum of cuffs +embroidered in satin stitch, and edged with bobbin-lace "torchon" of the +peasants' work in Slavonia in the eighteenth century. The patterns resemble +Cretan and Russian laces. + +There is a comparatively modern variety of lace made in Austria and Bohemia +which resembles the old Italian bobbin-lace; the school where it is taught +is under Government patronage. This industry was established as a means of +relieving the distress of the Tyrol in 1850, and continues to flourish. + +Austria sent to the International Exhibition of 1874 specimens of +needle-point and point plat made in the school of the Grand Duchess Sophie, +and specimens of border laces in the style of the Auvergne laces were +exhibited from the Erzgebirge and Bohemia. + +At the Paris Exhibition, Austria and Vienna both exhibited copies of old +needle-point laces. + +At Laybach, in Austria, there was at one time a bobbin-lace factory which +produced lace much esteemed in the eighteenth century. + +The collection of Hungarian peasant lace in the Victoria and Albert Museum +collection contains specimens of coarse modern pillow-made lace, with rude +floral designs worked in thick thread or yellow silk. + +The modern laces of Bohemia are tasteless in design. The fabric is of early +date. "The Bohemian women," writes Moryson, "delight in black cloth with +lace of bright colours." In the beginning of the nineteenth century upwards +of 60,000 people, men, women and children, were occupied in the Bohemian +Erzgebirge alone in lace-making. Since the introduction of the bobbin-net +machine into Austria, 1831, the number has decreased. There were in 1862 +scarcely 8,000 employed in the common laces, and about 4,000 on +Valenciennes and points.[723] + +PLATE LXX. + +[Illustration: HUNGARIAN. BOBBIN LACE.--Latter half of nineteenth century. +Widths, 6¼ and 2½ in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +PLATE LXXI. + +[Illustration: AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN, SOUTH SLAVONIAN. CUFF OF LINEN +EMBROIDERED IN SATIN STITCH IN WHITE SILK. WHITE SILK BOBBIN +LACE.--Eighteenth century. Width, 7½ in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 268._ + + +{269}SWITZERLAND. + + "Dans un vallon fort bien nommé Travers, + S'élève un mont, vrai séjour des hivers."--_Voltaire._ + +In the Preface of the _Neues Modelbuch of Froschowern_, printed at Zurich +(see APPENDIX), occurs the following:--"Amongst the different arts we must +not forget one which has been followed in our country for twenty-five +years. Lace-making was introduced in 1536 by merchants from Italy and +Venice. Many women, seeing a means of livelihood in such work, quickly +learned it, and reproduced lace with great skill. They first copied old +patterns, but soon were enabled to invent new ones of great beauty. The +industry spread itself about the country, and was carried to great +perfection: it was found to be one specially suitable for women, and +brought in good profits. In the beginning these laces were used solely for +trimming chemises and shirts; soon afterwards collars, trimmings for cuffs, +caps, and fronts and bodies of dresses, for napkins, sheets, pillow-cases +and coverlets, etc., were made in lace. Very soon such work was in great +demand, and became an article of great luxury. Gold thread was subsequently +introduced into some of it, and raised its value considerably; but this +latter sort was attended with the inconvenience that it was more difficult +to clean and wash than laces made with flax threads only."[724] + +The above account is interesting, not only in its reference to Switzerland, +but from its corroborative evidence of the Italian origin of lace. + +In 1572, one Symphorien Thelusson, a merchant of Lyons, having escaped from +the massacre of St. Bartholomew, concealed himself in a bale of goods, in +which he reached Geneva, and was hospitably received by the inhabitants. +When, after the lapse of near a hundred and twenty years, crowds of French +emigrants arrived in the city, driven from their homes on the Revocation of +the Edict of Nantes, a descendant of this same Thelusson took a body of +2,000 refugees into his service, and at once established a manufacture of +lace.[725] The produce of this industry was smuggled {270}back into France, +the goods conveyed across the Jura over passes known only to the bearers, +by which they avoided the custom-house duties of Valence. "Every day," +writes Jambonneau, himself a manufacturer, "they tell my wife what lace +they want, and she takes their orders." Louis XIV. was furious.[726] + +Though lace-making employed many women in various parts of the country, who +made a common description while tending their flocks in the mountains, +Neufchâtel has always been the _chef-lieu_ of the trade. "In this town," +says Savary, "they have carried their works to such a degree of perfection, +as to rival the laces of Flanders, not only in beauty but in quality." We +have ourselves seen in Switzerland guipures of fine workmanship that were +made in the country, belonging to old families, in which they have remained +as heirlooms; and have now in our possession a pair of lappets, made in the +last century at Neufchâtel, of such exquisite beauty as not to be surpassed +by the richest productions of Brussels. + +Formerly lace-making employed a large number of workwomen in the Val de +Travers, where, during his sojourn at Moutiers, Jean-Jacques Rousseau tells +us he amused himself in handling the bobbins. + +In 1780 the lace trade was an object of great profit to the country, +producing laces valuing from 1 batz to upwards of 70 francs the ell, and +exporting to the amount of 1,500,000 francs; on which the workwomen gained +800,000, averaging their labour at scarcely 8 sols per day. The villages of +Fleurens and Connet were the centre of this once flourishing trade,[727] +now ruined by competition with Mirecourt. In 1814 there were in the +Neufchâtel district, 5628 lace-makers; in 1844 a few aged women alone +remained. The modern laces of Neufchâtel resemble those of Lille, but are +apt to wash thick. (Plate LXVII.) + +In 1840, a fabric of "point plat de Bruxelles dite de Genève" was +established at Geneva. + +By the sumptuary laws of Zurich,[728] which were most {271}severe, women +were especially forbidden to wear either blonde or thread lace, except upon +their caps. This must have been a disadvantage to the native fabrics, "for +Zurich," says Anderson, "makes much gold, silver, and thread lace." + +Several pattern-books for lace were published in Switzerland in the later +years of the sixteenth century; one, without a date, but evidently printed +at Zürich about 1540, by C. Froschowern, is entitled, _Nüw Modelbüch +allerley Gattungen Däntel_, etc. Another one, entitled _New Model-buch_, +printed by G. Strauben, 1593, at St. Gall, is but a reprint of the third +book of Vecellio's _Corona_. Another, called also _Sehr Newe Model-Buch_, +was published at Basle in 1599, at the printing-house of Ludwig Künigs. + + + + +{272}CHAPTER XXI. + +DENMARK, SWEDEN AND RUSSIA. + +---- + +DENMARK. + + "ERASTE.--Miss, how many parties have you been to this week? + + "LADY.--I do not frequent such places; but if you want to know how much + lace I have made this fortnight, I might well tell you." + + --Holberg. _The Inconstant Lady._ + + "The far-famed lace of Tönder." + +"A certain kind of embroidery, or cut-work in linen, was much used in +Denmark before lace came in from Brabant," writes Professor Thomsen. "This +kind of work is still in use among the peasants, and you will often have +observed it on their bed-clothes." + +The art of lace-making itself is supposed to have been first brought over +by the fugitive monks at the Reformation, or to have been introduced by +Queen Elizabeth,[729] sister of Charles V., and wife of Christian II., that +good queen who, had her husband been more fortunate, would, says the +chronicler, "have proved a second Dagmar to Denmark." + +Lace-making has never been practised as a means of livelihood throughout +Denmark. It is only in the province of North Schleswig (or South Jutland, +as it is also called) that a regular manufacture was established. It is +here that King Christian IV. appears to have made his purchases; and while +travelling in Schleswig, entries constantly occur in his journal book, from +1619 to 1625, such as, "Paid to a female lace-worker 28 rixdollars--71 +specie to a lace-seller for lace for the use of the children," and many +similar {273}notices.[730] It was one of those pieces of Tönder lace that +King Christian sends to his Chamberlain, with an autograph letter, ordering +him to cut out of it four collars of the same size and manner as Prince +Ulrik's Spanish. They must contrive also to get two pairs of manchettes out +of the same. + +In the museum of the palace at Rosenborg are still preserved some shirts of +Christian IV., trimmed with Schleswig lace of great beauty (Fig. 115), and +in his portrait, which hangs in Hampton Court Palace, the lace on his shirt +is of similar texture. + +[Illustration: Fig. 115. + +SHIRT COLLAR OF CHRISTIAN IV.--(Castle of Rosenborg, Copenhagen.)] + +It was in the early part of this monarch's reign[731] that the celebrated +Golden Horn, so long the chief treasure of the Scandinavian Museum at +Copenhagen, was found by a young {274}lace-maker on her way to her work. +She carried her prize to the king, and with the money he liberally bestowed +upon her she was enabled, says tradition, to marry the object of her +choice. + +The year 1647 was a great epoch in the lace-making of Jutland. A merchant +named Steenbeck, taking a great interest in the fabric, engaged twelve +persons from Dortmund, in Westphalia, to improve the trade, and settled +them at Tönder, to teach the manufacture to both men and women, rich and +poor. These twelve persons are described as aged men, with long beards, +which, while making lace, they gathered into bags, to prevent the hair from +becoming entangled among the bobbins. The manufacture soon made great +progress under their guidance, and extended to the south-western part of +Ribe, and to the island of Romö.[732] The lace was sold by means of "lace +postmen," as they were termed, who carried their wares throughout all +Scandinavia and parts of Germany. + +Christian IV. protected the native manufacture, and in the Act of +1643,[733] "lace and suchlike pinwork" are described as luxurious articles, +not allowed to be imported of a higher value than five shillings and +sixpence the Danish ell.[734] A later ordinance, 1683, mentions "white and +black lace which are manufactured in this country," and grants permission +to the nobility to wear them.[735] + +Christian IV. did not patronise foreign manufactures. "The King of +Denmark," writes Moryson, "wears but little gold lace, and sends foreign +apparel to the hangman to be disgraced, when brought in by gentlemen." + +[Illustration: Fig. 116. + +TÖNDER LACE, DRAWN MUSLIN.--Denmark, eighteenth century. Width 2¾ inches. +Victoria and Albert Museum. + +_To face page 274._] + +{275}About the year 1712 the lace manufacture again was much improved by +the arrival of a number of Brabant women, who accompanied the troops of +King Frederick IV. on their return from the Netherlands,[736] and settled +at Tönder. We have received from Jutland, through the kind exertions of Mr. +Rudolf Bay, of Aalborg, a series of Tönder laces, taken from the +pattern-books of the manufacturers. The earlier specimens are all of +Flemish character. There is the old Flanders lace, with its Dutch flowers +and double and trolly grounds in endless variety. The Brabant, with fine +ground, the flowers and _jours_ well executed. Then follow the Mechlin +grounds, the patterns worked with a coarse thread, in many, apparently, run +in with the needle. There is also a good specimen of that description of +drawn muslin lace, commonly known under the name of "Indian work," but +which appears to have been very generally made in various manners. The +leaves and flowers formed of the muslin are worked round with a cordonnet, +by way of relief to the thick double ground (Fig. 116).[737] In the +Scandinavian Museum at Copenhagen is a pair of lappets of drawn muslin, a +fine specimen of this work. + +The modern laces are copied from French, Lille, and Saxon patterns; there +are also imitations of the so-called Maltese. The Schleswig laces are all +remarkable for their fine quality and excellent workmanship. Guipure, after +the manner of the Venice points, was also fabricated. A fine specimen of +this lace may be seen decorating the black velvet dress of the youthful +daughter of Duke John of Holstein. She lies in her coffin within the +mortuary chapel of her family, in the castle of Sonderborg. Lace was much +used in burials in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when it really +appears people were arrayed in more costly clothing than in their lives. +The author of _Jutland and the Danish Islands_ has often seen mummies in +the Danish churches exposed to view tricked out in points of great +richness. + +The lace industry continued to increase in value till the beginning of the +present century. The year 1801 may be considered its culminating point. At +that period the number of peasants employed in Tönder and its neighbourhood +alone was 20,000. Even little boys were taught to make lace till strong +enough to work in the fields, and there was scarcely a house without a +lace-maker, who would sit before her {276}cottage door, working from +sunrise till midnight, singing the ballads handed down from their Brabant +teachers.[738] + +"My late father,"[739] writes Mr. F. Wulff, of Brede, "who began the lace +trade the end of the last century, first went on foot with his wares to +Mecklenburg, Prussia and Hanover: we consigned lace to all parts of the +world. Soon he could afford to buy a horse; and in his old age he +calculated he had travelled on horseback more than 75,000 English miles, or +thrice round the earth. In his youth the most durable and prettiest ground +was the old Flemish, much used by the peasants in Germany. It was solid, +and passed as an heirloom through several generations. Later, the fine +needle ground came in, and lastly, the fond clair, or point de Lille, far +less solid, but easier to work; hence the lace-makers became less skilful +than of old." + +They had not many models, and the best workwomen were those who devoted +their whole life to one special pattern. Few were found so persevering. One +widow, however, is recorded who lived to the age of eighty and brought up +seven children on the produce of a narrow edging, which she sold at +sixpence a yard. + +Each pattern had its proper name--cock-eye, spider, lyre, chimney-pot, and +feather. + +The rich farmers' wives sat at their pillows daily, causing their household +duties to be performed by hired servants from North Jutland. Ladies also, a +century and a half ago, made it their occupation, as the motto of our +chapter, from the drama of Holberg, will show. And this continued till the +fashion of "hvidsom"--white seaming--the cut-work already alluded to, was +for a time revived. This work was, however, looked upon as _infra dig._ for +the wives of functionaries and suchlike, in whom it was unbecoming to waste +on such employment time that should be devoted to household matters. Our +informant tells of a lady in the north who thus embroidered the christening +robe of her child by stealth in the kitchen, fearing to be caught by her +visitors--cookery had in those days precedence over embroidery. Among the +hoards of this child, born 1755, was found a most exquisite collection of +old Tönder lace, embracing all the varieties made by her mother and +herself, from the thick Flemish to the finest needle-point. + +PLATE LXXII. + +[Illustration: RUSSIAN.--The upper piece of lace is needle-point "à brides +picotées." Modern reproduction of a sixteenth century design. Width, 3-3/8 +in. + +GERMAN. SAXON.--The lower piece bobbin-made by the peasants of the +Erzgebirge. Nineteenth century. Width, 3¼ in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +PLATE LXXIII. + +[Illustration: RUSSIAN.--Old bobbin-made with coloured silk outlines. The +property of Madame Pogosky. + +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 276._ + +{277}The fashion of cut-work still prevails in Denmark, where collars and +cuffs, decorated with stars, crosses, and other mediæval designs, are +exposed in the shop-windows of Copenhagen for sale--the work of poor +gentlewomen, who, by their needle, thus add a few dollars yearly to their +income. + +From 1830 dates the decline of the Tönder lace. Cotton thread was +introduced, and the quality of the fabric was deteriorated.[740] The lace +schools were given up; and the flourishing state of agriculture rendered it +no longer a profitable employment either for the boys or the women.[741] +The trade passed, from the manufacturers into the hands of the hawkers and +petty dealers, who were too poor to purchase the finer points. The "lace +postmen" once more travelled from house to house with their little leathern +boxes, offering these inferior wares for sale.[742] The art died out. In +1840 there were not more than six lace manufacturers in Schleswig. + +The old people, however, still believe in a good time coming. "I have in my +day," said an aged woman, "sold point at four thalers an ell, sir; and +though I may never do so again, my daughter will. The lace trade slumbers, +but it does not die." + + +SWEDEN. + +At a very early period the Scandinavian goldsmith had learned to draw out +wires of gold and twine them round threads either of silk or flax--in fact +to _guiper_ them. + +{278}Wadstena, where lies Queen Philippa of Lancaster, daughter of Henry +IV., is celebrated for its lace. The art, according to tradition, was +introduced among the nuns of the convent by St. Bridget on her return from +Italy. Some even go so far as to say she wrote home to Wadstena, ordering +lace from Rome; but, as St. Bridget died in 1335, we may be allowed to +question the fact: certain it is, though, the funeral coif of the saint, as +depicted in an ancient portrait, said to have been taken at Rome after +death, is ornamented with a species of perforated needlework.[743] By the +rules of the convent, the nuns of Wadstena were forbidden to touch either +gold or silver, save in their netting and embroidery. There exists an old +journal of the Kloster, called _Diarium Vadstenænse_, in which are, +however, no allusions to the art; but the letters of a Wadstena nun to her +lover _extra muros_, published from an old collection[744] of documents, +somewhat help us in our researches. + +"I wish," she writes to her admirer, "I could send you a netted cap that I +myself have made, but when Sister Karin Andersdotter saw that I mingled +gold and silver thread in it, she said, 'You must surely have some +beloved.' 'Do you think so?' I answered. 'Here in the Kloster, you may +easily see if any of the brethren has such a cap, and I dare not send it by +anyone to a sweetheart outside the walls.' 'You intend it for Axel Nilson,' +answered Sister Karin. 'It is not for you to talk,' I replied. 'I have seen +you net a long hood, and talk and prattle yourself with Brother Bertol.'" + +From netted caps of thread, worked in with gold and silver, the transition +to lace is easy, and history tells that in the middle ages the Wadstena +nuns "Knit their laces of {279}gold and silk." We may therefore suppose the +art to have flourished in the convents at an early date. + +At the suppression of the monasteries, under Charles IX., a few of the +nuns, too infirm to sail with their sisters for Poland, remained in Sweden. +People took compassion on the outcasts, and gave them two rooms to dwell +in, where they continued their occupation of making lace, and were able, +for a season, to keep the secret of their art. After a time, however, +lace-making became general throughout the town and neighbourhood, and was +known to the laity previous to the dissolution of Wadstena--a favoured +convent which survived the rest of the other monasteries of Sweden. + +"Send up," writes Gustaf Vasa, in a familiar letter[745] to his Queen +Margaret, "the lace passement made for me by Anne, the smith's daughter, at +Upsala; I want it: don't neglect this."[746] + +In an inventory of Ericksholm Castle, drawn up in 1548, are endless entries +of "sheets seamed with cut-work, half worn-out sheets with open border of +cut-work, towels with cut-work and with the king's and queen's arms in each +corner, blue curtains with cut-work seams," etc. + +The style of Wadstena lace changed with the times and fashion of the +national costume. Those made at present are of the single or double ground, +both black and white, fine, but wanting in firmness. They also make much +dentelle torchon, of the lozenge pattern, for trimming the bed-linen they +so elaborately embroider in drawn-work. + +In 1830 the products in value amounted to 30,000 rixdollars. They were +carried to every part of Sweden, and a small quantity even to foreign +parts. One dealer alone, a Madame Hartruide, now sends her colporteurs +hawking Wadstena lace round the country. The fabric, after much depression, +has slightly increased of late years, having received much encouragement +from her Majesty Queen {280}Louisa. Specimens of Wadstena lace--the only +lace manufactory now existing in Sweden--were sent to the Great +International Exhibition of 1862. + +Hölesom, or cut-work, is a favourite employment of Swedish women, and is +generally taught in the schools.[747] At the various bathing-places you may +see the young ladies working as industriously as if for their daily +sustenance; they never purchase such articles of decoration, but entirely +adorn their houses by the labours of their own hands. It was by a collar of +this hölesom, worked in silk and gold, that young Gustaf Erikson was nearly +betrayed when working as a labourer in the barn of Rankhytta, the property +of his old college friend, Anders Petersen. A servant girl observed to her +master, "The new farm-boy can be no peasant; for," says she, "his linen is +far too fine, and I saw a collar wrought in silk and gold beneath his +kirtle." + +Gold lace was much in vogue in the middle of the sixteenth century, and +entries of it abound in the inventory of Gustavus Vasa and his youngest +son, Magnus. + +In an inventory of Ericksholm, 1536, is a pair of laced sheets. It is the +custom in Sweden to sew a broad border of seaming lace between the breadths +of the sheets, sometimes wove in the linen. Directions, with patterns +scarcely changed since the sixteenth century, may be found in the _Weaving +Book_ published at Stockholm in 1828.[748] + +Towards the end of 1500 the term "passement" appears in general use, in an +inventory of "Pontus de Gardia." + +In the neighbourhood of Wadstena old soldiers, as well as women, may be +seen of a summer's evening sitting at the cottage doors making lace. Though +no other lace manufactory can be said to exist in Sweden beyond that of +Wadstena, still a coarse bobbin lace is made by the peasantry for home +consumption. The author has received from the Countess Elizabeth Piper, +late Grande Maîtresse to her Majesty the Queen of Sweden, specimens of +coarse pillow laces, worked by the Scanian peasant women, which, she +writes, "form a favourite occupation for the women of our province." + +PLATE LXXIV. + +[Illustration: RUSSIAN.--Part of a long border setting forth a Procession. +Lacis and embroidery in silk. The lace is bobbin-made in thread. Réseau +similar to Valenciennes. The Russian thread is good quality linen. Size of +portion shown 18½ x 14 in. The property of Madame Pogosky. + +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 280._ + +{281}Latterly this manufacture has been protected and the workwomen +carefully directed. + +Far more curious are the laces made by the peasants of Dalecarlia, still +retaining the patterns used in the rest of Europe two hundred years since. +The broader[749] kinds, of which we give a woodcut (Fig. 117), are from +Gaguef, that part of Dalecarlia where laces are mostly made and used. +Married women wear them on their summer caps, much starched, as a shelter +against the sun. Others, of an unbleached thread, are from Orsa. This lace +is never washed, as it is considered an elegance to preserve this +coffee-coloured tint. The firmness and solidity of these last laces are +wonderful. + +[Illustration: Fig. 117. + +DALECARLIAN LACE.] + +The specimens from Rättwik are narrow "seaming" laces of the lozenge +pattern. + +There is also a sort of plaiting used as a fringe, in the style of the +Genoese macramè, from the ends of a small {282}sheet which the peasants +spread over their pillows. No improvement takes place in the designs. The +Dalecarlian women do not make a trade of lace-making, they merely work to +supply their own wants.[750] + +Fig. 118 represents a lace collar worn by Gustavus Adolphus, a relic +carefully preserved in the Northern Museum at Stockholm. On it is inscribed +in Swedish: "This collar was worn by Gustaf Adolf, King of Sweden, and +presented, together with his portrait, as a remembrance, in 1632, to Miss +Jacobina Lauber, of Augsburg, because she was the most beautiful damsel +present." In addition to this collar, there is preserved at the Royal +Kladskammar at Stockholm a blood-stained shirt worn by Gustavus at the +Battle of Dirschau, the collars and cuffs trimmed with lace of rich +geometric pattern, the sleeves decorated with "seaming" lace. + +In an adjoining case of the same collection are some splendid altar-cloths +of ancient raised Spanish point, said to have been worked by the Swedish +nuns previous to the suppression of the monasteries. A small escutcheon +constantly repeated on the pattern of the most ancient specimens has the +semblance of a water-lily leaf, the emblem of the Stures, leading one to +believe they may have been of Swedish fabric, for many ladies of that +illustrious house sought shelter from troublous times within the walls of +the lace-making convent of Wadstena. + +In the same cabinet is displayed, with others of more ordinary texture, a +collar of raised Spanish guipure, worked by the Princesses Catherine and +Marie, daughters of Duke Johan Adolf (brother of Charles X.). Though a +creditable performance, yet it is far inferior to the lace of convent make. +The making of this Spanish point formed a favourite amusement of the +Swedish ladies of the seventeenth century: bed-hangings, coverlets, and +toilets of their handiwork may still be found in the remote castles of the +provinces. We have received the photograph of a flower from an old bed of +Swedish lace--an heirloom in a Smaland castle of Count Trolle Bonde. + +[Illustration: Fig. 118. + +COLLAR OF GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS. + +_To face page 282._] + + +{283}RUSSIA. + +After his visit to Paris early in the eighteenth century, Peter the Great +founded a manufacture of silk lace at Novgorod, which in the time of the +Empress Elizabeth fell into decay. In the reign of Catherine II. there were +twelve gold lace-makers at St. Petersburg, who were scarcely able to supply +the demand. In Russia lace-making and embroidery go hand in hand, as in our +early examples of embroidery, drawn-work, and cut-work combined. +Lace-making was not a distinct industry; the peasants, especially in +Eastern Russia, made it in their houses to decorate, in conjunction with +embroidery, towels, table-linen, shirts, and even the household linen, for +which purpose it was purchased direct from the peasants by the inhabitants +of the towns. Many will have seen the Russian towels in the International +Exhibition of 1874, and have admired their quaint design and bright +colours, with the curious line of red and blue thread running through the +pattern of the lace. Darned netting and drawn-work appear, as elsewhere, to +have been their earliest productions. The lace is loosely wrought on the +pillow, the work simple, and requiring few bobbins to execute the +vermiculated pattern which is its characteristic (Fig. 119, and Plates +LXXII.-IV.). + +The specimens vary very much in quality, but the patterns closely resemble +one another, and are all of an oriental and barbaric character (Fig. 119). + +In Nardendal, near Abo, in Finland, the natives offer to strangers small +petticoats and toys of lace--a relic of the time when a nunnery of +Cistercians flourished in the place. + +Much of a simple design and coarse quality is made in Belev, Vologda, +Riazan, Mzeresk. At Vologda a lace resembling torchon is made, with colours +introduced, red, blue, and écru and white.[751] In some laces silks of +various colours are employed. Pillow-lace has only been known in Russia for +over a hundred years, and although the {284}lace produced is effective, it +is coarse in texture and crude in pattern. Late in the nineteenth century +the Czarina gave her patronage to a school founded at Moscow, where +Venetian needle-point laces have been copied, using the finest English +thread, and needle-laces made after old Russian designs of the sixteenth +century,[752] called _Point de Moscou_. + +[Illustration: Fig. 119. + +RUSSIA.--Bobbin-made nineteenth century. + +_To face page 284._] + + + + +{285}CHAPTER XXII. + +ENGLAND TO QUEEN ELIZABETH. + + "We weare most fantastical fashions than any nation under the sun doth, + the French only excepted."--_Coryat's Crudities._ 1611. + + +It would be a difficult matter for antiquaries to decide at what precise +time lace, as we now define the word, first appears as an article of +commerce in the annals of our country. + +As early as the reign of Edward III.,[753] the excessive luxury of veils, +worn even by servant girls, excited the indignation of the Government, who, +in an Act, dated 1363, forbade them to be worn of silk, or of any other +material, "mes soulement de fil fait deinz le Roialme," for which veils no +one was to pay more than the sum of tenpence. Of what stuff these thread +veils were composed we have no record; probably they were a sort of +network, similar to the caul of Queen Philippa, as we see represented on +her tomb.[754] That a sort of crochet decoration used for edging was +already made, we may infer from the monumental effigies of the day.[755] +The purse of the carpenter is described, too, in Chaucer, as "purled with +latoun," a kind of metal or wire lace, similar to that found at +Herculaneum, and made in some parts of Europe to a recent period. + +M. Aubry refers to a commercial treaty of 1390, between England and the +city of Bruges, as the earliest mention of lace. This said treaty we cannot +find in Rymer, Dumont, {286}or anywhere else. We have, as before alluded +to, constant edicts concerning the gold wires and threads of "Cipre, Venys, +Luk, and Jeane," of embroideries and suchlike, but no distinct allusion to +"lace."[756] + +According to Anderson, the first intimation of such an occupation being +known in England is the complaint, made in 1454, by the women of the +mystery of thread-working in London, in consequence of the importation of +six foreign women, by which the manufacture of needlework[757] of thread +and silk, not as yet understood, was introduced. These six women, probably +Flemings, had brought over to England the cut-work or darning of the time, +a work then unknown in this country. + +All authors, up to the present period, refer to the well-known Act of +Edward IV.,[758] 1463, in which the entry of "laces, corses, ribans, +fringes, de soie and de file, laces de file soie enfile," etc., are +prohibited, as the first mention of "lace" in the public records. + +The English edition of the Foedera, as well as the statutes at large, +freely translate these words as laces of thread, silk twined, laces of +gold, etc.; and the various writers on commerce and manufactures have +accepted the definition as "lace," without troubling themselves to examine +the question.[759] Some even go so far as to refer to a MS. in the Harleian +Library,[760] giving "directions for making many sorts of laces,[761] which +were in fashion in the times of King Henry VI. {287}and Edward IV.," as a +proof that lace was already well known, and formed the occupation of the +"handcraftry"--as those who gained their livelihood by manual occupation +were then termed--of the country. Now, the author has carefully examined +this already quoted MS., in the principal letter of which is a damaged +figure of a woman sitting and "making of lace," which is made by means of +"bowys."[762] As regards the given directions, we defy anyone, save the +most inveterate lover of crochet-work, to understand one word of its +contents, beyond that it relates to some sort of twisted thread-work, and +perhaps we might, in utter confusion of mind, have accepted the definition +as given, had not another MS. of similar tenor, bearing date 1651, been +also preserved in the British Museum.[763] + +This second MS. gives specimens of the laces, such as they were, stitched +side by side with the directions, which at once establishes the fact that +the laces of silk and gold, laces of thread, were nothing more than braids +or cords--the laces used with tags, commonly called "poynts" (the "ferrets" +of Anne of Austria)--for fastening the dresses, as well as for ornament, +previous to the introduction of pins. + +In the Wardrobe Accounts of the time we have frequent notice of these +"laces" and corses. "Laces de quir" (cuir) also appear in the +Statutes,[764] which can only mean what we now term bootlaces, or something +similar. + +{288}In the "Total of stuffs bought" for Edward IV.,[765] we have entries: +"Laces made of ryban of sylk; two dozen laces, and a double lace of +ryban"--"corses of sylk with laces and tassels of sylk," etc. Again, to +Alice Claver, his sylkwoman, he pays for "two dozen laces and a double lace +of sylk." These double laces of ribbon and silk were but plaited, a simple +ornament still used by the peasant women in some countries of Europe. There +must, however, be a beginning to everything, and these tag laces--some made +round, others in zigzag, like the modern braids of ladies' work, others +flat--in due course of time enriched with an edging, and a few stitches +disposed according to rule, produced a rude lace; and these patterns, +clumsy at first, were, after a season, improved upon. + +From the time of Edward IV. downwards, statute on apparel followed upon +statute, renewed for a number of years, bearing always the same expression, +and nothing more definite.[766] + +The Venetian galleys at an early period bore to England the gold work of +"Luk," Florence, "Jeane" and Venice. In our early Parliamentary records are +many statutes on the subject. It is not, however, till the reign of Henry +VII. that, according to Anderson, "Gold and thread lace came from Florence, +Venice, and Genoa, and became an article of commerce. An Act was then +passed to prevent the buyers of such commodities from selling for a pound +weight a packet which does not contain twelve ounces, and the inside of the +said gold, silver, and thread lace was to be of equal greatness of thread +and goodness of colour as the outside thereof."[767] + +The Italians were in the habit of giving short lengths, gold thread of bad +quality, and were guilty of sundry other misdemeanours which greatly +excited the wrath of the nation. The balance was not in England's favour. +It was the cheating Venetians who first brought over their gold lace into +England. + +PLATE LXXV. + +[Illustration: CAP. (FLEMISH OR GERMAN.)--The insertion is cut-work and +needle-point. The lace is bobbin-made, and bears a resemblance to Plate +XXVI., South Italian. Late seventeenth century. Length of lace about 12 in. + +Photo by A. Dryden from private collection.] + +_To face page 288._ + +{289}A warrant to the Keeper of the Great Wardrobe, in the eighteenth year +of King Henry's reign,[768] contains an order for "a mauntel lace of blewe +silk and Venys gold, to be delivered for the use of our right dere and +well-beloved Cosyn the King of Romayne"--Maximilian, who was made Knight of +the Garter.[769] + +If lace was really worn in the days of Henry VII., it was probably either +of gold or silk, as one of the last Acts of that monarch's reign, by which +all foreign lace is prohibited, and "those who have it in their possession +may keep it and wear it till Pentecost,"[770] was issued rather for the +protection of the silk-women of the country than for the advantage of the +ever-complaining "workers of the mysteries of thread-work." + +On the 3rd of October, 1502, his Queen Elizabeth of York pays to one Master +Bonner, at Langley, for laces, rybands, etc., 40s.; and again, in the same +year, 38s. 7d. to Dame Margrette Cotton, for "hosyn, laces, sope, and other +necessaries for the Lords Henry Courtenay, Edward, and the Lady Margrette, +their sister." A considerable sum is also paid to Fryer Hercules for gold +of Venys, gold of Danmarke, and making a lace for the King's mantell of the +Garter.[771] + +It is towards the early part of Henry VIII.'s reign that the "Actes of +Apparell"[772] first mention the novel luxury of shirts and partlets, +"garded and pynched,"[773] in addition to clothes decorated in a similar +manner, all of which are {290}forbidden to be worn by anyone under the +degree of a knight.[774] In the year 1517 there had been a serious +insurrection of the London apprentices against the numerous foreign +tradesmen who already infested the land, which, followed up by the +never-ending complaints of the workers of the mysteries of needlework, +induced the king to ordain the wearing of such "myxte joyned garded or +browdered"[775] articles of lynnen cloth be only allowed when the same be +wrought within "this realm of England, Wales, Berwick, Calais, or the +Marches."[776] + +The earliest record we find of laced linen is in the Inventory of Sir +Thomas L'Estrange, of Hunstanton, County of Norfolk, 1519, where it is +entered, "3 elles of Holland cloth, for a shirte for hym, 6 shillings," +with "a yard of lace for hym, 8d." + +In a MS. called "The Boke of Curtasye"--a sort of treatise on etiquette, in +which all grades of society are taught their duties--the chamberlain is +commanded to provide for his master's uprising, a "clene shirte," bordered +with lace and curiously adorned with needlework. + +The correspondence, too, of Honor. Lady Lisle, seized by Henry VIII.[777] +as treasonous and dangerous to the State, embraces a hot correspondence +with one Soeur Antoinette de Sevenges, a nun milliner of Dunkirk, on the +important subject of nightcaps,[778] one half dozen of which, she +complains, are far too wide behind, and not of the lozenge (cut) work +pattern she had selected. The nightcaps were in consequence to be changed. + +Anne Basset, daughter of the said Lady Lisle, educated in a French convent, +writes earnestly begging for an "edge {291}of perle[779] for her coif and a +tablete (tablier) to ware." Her sister Mary, too, gratefully expresses her +thanks to her mother, in the same year,[780] for the "laced gloves you sent +me by bearer." Calais was still an English possession, and her products, +like those of the Scotch Border fortresses, were held as such.[781] + +Lace still appears but sparingly on the scene. Among the Privy Purse +expenses of the king in 1530,[782] we find five shillings and eightpence +paid to Richard Cecyll,[783] Groom of the Robes, for eight pieces of +"yelowe lace, bought for the King's Grace." We have, too, in the Harleian +Inventory,[784] a coif laid over with passamyne of gold and silver. + +These "Acts of Apparell," as regards foreign imports, are, however, +somewhat set aside towards the year 1546, when Henry grants a licence in +favour of two Florentine merchants to export for three years' time, +together with other matters, "all manner of fryngys and passements wrought +with gold or silver, or otherwise, and all other new gentillesses of what +facyon or value soever they may be, for the pleasure of our dearest wyeff +the Queen, our nobles, gentlemen, and others."[785] The king, however, +reserves to himself the first view of their merchandise, with the privilege +of selecting anything he may please for his own private use, before their +wares were hawked about the country. The said "dearest wyeff," from the +date of the Act, must have been Katherine Parr; her predecessor, Katherine +Howard, had for some four years slept headless in the vaults of the White +Tower chapel. Of these "gentillesses" the king now began to avail himself. +He selects "trunk sleeves of redd cloth of gold with cut-work;" knitted +gloves of silk, and "handkerchers" edged with gold and silver; his towels +are {292}of diaper, "with Stafford knots," or "knots and roses;" he has +"coverpanes of fyne diaper of Adam and Eve garnished about with a narrow +passamayne of Venice gold and silver; handkerchers of Holland, frynged with +Venice gold, redd and white silk," others of "Flanders worke," and his +shaving cloths trimmed in like fashion.[786] The merchandise of the two +Florentines had found vast favour in the royal eyes. Though these articles +were imported for "our dere wyeff's sake," beyond a "perle edging" to the +coif of the Duchess of Suffolk, and a similar adornment to the tucker of +Jane Seymour,[787] lace seems to have been little employed for female +decoration during the reign of King Henry VIII. + +[Illustration: Fig. 120. + +FISHER, BISHOP OF ROCHESTER. + 1535. (M. de Versailles.)] + +That it was used for the adornment of the ministers of the Church we have +ample evidence. M. Aubry states having seen in London lace belonging to +Cardinal Wolsey. On this matter we have no information; but we know the +surplices were ornamented round the neck, shoulders, and sleeves with +"white work" and cut-work[788] at this period. The specimens we give (Figs. +120, 121) are from a portrait formerly in the Library of the Sorbonne, now +transferred to Versailles, of Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, Cardinal Fisher +as he is styled--his cardinal's hat arriving at Dover at the very moment +the head that was to wear it had fallen at Tower Hill. + +PLATE LXXVI. + +[Illustration: ENGLISH. CUTWORK AND NEEDLE-POINT.--Cross said to have +belonged to Cardinal Wolsey.] + +PLATE LXXVII. + +[Illustration: ENGLISH. DEVONSHIRE "TROLLY."--First part of nineteenth +century. + +Photos by A. Dryden from private collection.] + +_To face page 292._ + +{293}About this time, too, lace gradually dawns upon us in the church +inventories. Among the churchwardens' accounts of St. Mary-at-Hill, date +1554, we find entered a charge of 3s. for making "the Bishopp's (boy +bishop) myter with stuff and lace."[789] The richly-laced corporax cloths +and church linen are sent to be washed by the "Lady Ancress," an +ecclesiastical washerwoman, who is paid by the churchwardens of St. +Margaret's, Westminster, the sum of 8d.; this Lady Ancress, or Anchoress, +being some worn-out old nun who, since the dissolution of the religious +houses, eked out an existence by the art she had once practised within the +walls of her convent. + +At the burial of King Edward VI., Sir Edward Waldgrave enters on his +account a charge of fifty yards of gold passement lace for garnishing the +pillars of the church. + +[Illustration: Fig. 121. + +FISHER, BISHOP OF ROCHESTER.--(M. de Versailles.)] + +The sumptuary laws of Henry VIII. were again renewed by Queen Mary:[790] in +them ruffles made or wrought out of England, commonly called cut-work, are +forbidden to anyone under the degree of a baron; while to women of a +station beneath that of a knight's wife, all wreath lace or passement lace +of gold and silver with sleeves, partlet or linen trimmed {294}with purles +of gold and silver, or white-works, alias cut-works, etc., made beyond the +sea, is strictly prohibited. These articles were, it seems, of Flemish +origin, for among the New Year's Gifts presented to Queen Mary, 1556, we +find enumerated as given by Lady Jane Seymour, "a fair smock of white +work,[791] Flanders making." Lace, too, is now in more general use, for on +the same auspicious occasion, Mrs. Penne, King Edward's nurse, gave "six +handkerchers edged with passamayne of golde and silke."[792] Two years +previous to these New Year's Gifts, Sir Thomas Wyatt is described as +wearing, at his execution, "on his head a faire hat of velvet, with broad +bone-work lace about it."[793] + +Lace now seems to be called indifferently purle, passamayne or bone-work, +the two first-mentioned terms occurring most frequently. The origin of this +last appellation is generally stated to have been derived from the custom +of using sheep's trotters previous to the invention of wooden bobbins. +Fuller so explains it, and the various dictionaries have followed his +theory. The Devonshire lace-makers, on the other hand, deriving their +knowledge from tradition, declare that when lace-making was first +introduced into their county, pins,[794] so indispensable to their art, +being then sold at a price far beyond their means, the lace-makers, mostly +the wives of fishermen living along the coast, adopted the {295}bones of +fish, which, pared and cut into regular lengths, fully answered as a +substitute. This explanation would seem more probable than that of +employing sheep's trotters for bobbins, which, as from 300 to 400 are often +used at one time on a pillow, must have been both heavy and cumbersome. +Even at the present day pins made from chicken bones continue to be +employed in Spain; and bone pins are still used in Portugal.[795] + +Shakespeare, in _Twelfth-Night_, speaks of + + "The spinsters and the knitters in the sun, + And the free maids that weave their threads with bone." + +"Bone" lace[796] constantly appears in the wardrobe accounts, while bobbin +lace[797] is of less frequent occurrence. + +Among the New Year's Gifts presented to Queen Elizabeth, we have from the +Lady Paget "a petticoat of cloth of gold stayned black and white, with a +bone lace of gold and spangles, like the wayves of the sea"; a most +astounding article, with other entries no less remarkable but too numerous +to cite. + +{296}In the marriage accounts of Prince Charles[798] we have charged 150 +yards of bone lace[799] for six extraordinary ruffs and twelve pairs of +cuffs, against the projected Spanish marriage. The lace was at 9s. a yard. +Sum total, £67 10s.[800] Bone lace is mentioned in the catalogue of King +Charles I.'s pictures, drawn up by Vanderdort,[801] where James I. is +described "without a hat, in a bone lace falling band."[802] + +Setting aside wardrobe accounts and inventories, the term constantly +appears both in the literature and the plays of the seventeenth century. + + "Buy some quoifs, handkerchiefs, or very good bone lace, mistress?" + +cries the pert sempstress when she enters with her basket of wares, in +Green's _Tu Quoque_,[803] showing it to have been at that time the usual +designation. + + "You taught her to make shirts and bone lace," + +says someone in the _City Madam_.[804] + +Again, describing a thrifty wife, Loveless, in _The Scornful Lady_,[805] +exclaims-- + + "She cuts cambric to a thread, weaves bone lace, and quilts balls + admirably." + +The same term is used in the _Tatler_[806] and _Spectator_,[807] {297}and +in the list of prizes given, in 1752, by the Society of Anti-Gallicans, we +find, "Six pieces of bone lace for men's ruffles." It continued to be +applied in the Acts of Parliament and notices relative to lace, nearly to +the end of the eighteenth century.[808] After a time, the sheep's trotters +or bones having been universally replaced by bobbins of turned box-wood, +the term fell into disuse, though it is still retained in Belgium and +Germany. + +From the reign of Queen Mary onwards, frequent mention is made of parchment +lace (see pp. 297-298), a term most generally associated with gold and +silver, otherwise we should consider it as merely referring to needle-made +lace, which is worked on a parchment pattern. + +But to return to Queen Mary Tudor. We have among the "late Queen Mary's +clothes" an entry of "compas"[809] lace; probably an early name for lace of +geometric pattern. Open-work edging of gold and passamaine lace also occur; +and on her gala robes lace of "Venys gold," as well as "vales of black +network," a fabric to which her sister, Queen Elizabeth, was most partial; +partlets,[810] dressings, shadowes, and pynners "de opere rete," appearing +constantly in her accounts.[811] + +It was at this period, during the reign of Henry VIII. and Mary, a peculiar +and universally prevalent fashion, varying in degrees of eccentricity and +extravagance, to slash the garment so as to show glimpses of some +contrasting underdress. Dresses thus slashed, or puffed, banded, "pinched," +stiff with heavy gold and metal braid or embroidery, required but little +additional adornment of lace.[812] The falling collar, which was worn in +the early part of the sixteenth century, before the Elizabethan ruff +(introduced from France about 1560), was, however, frequently edged with +lace of geometric pattern. + +Early in the sixteenth century the dresses of the ladies {298}fitted +closely to the figure, with long skirts open in front to display the +underdress; and were made low and cut square about the neck. Sometimes, +however, the dresses were worn high with short waists and a small falling +collar. Somewhat later, when the dresses were made open at the girdle, a +partlet--a kind of habit-shirt--was worn beneath them, and carried to the +throat.[813] + +Entries of lace in the wardrobe accounts are, however, few and +inconsiderable until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. + +PLATE LXXVIII. + +[Illustration: MARIE DE LORRAINE, 1515-1560. DAUGHTER OF DUC DE GUISE, +MARRIED JAMES V. OF SCOTLAND, 1538. This picture was probably painted +before she left France, by an unknown French artist. National Portrait +Gallery. + +Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] + +_To face page 298._ + + + + +{299}CHAPTER XXIII. + +QUEEN ELIZABETH. + + "By land and sea a Virgin Queen I reign, + And spurn to dust both Antichrist and Spain."--Old Masque. + + "Tell me, Dorinda, why so gay? + Why such embroidery, fringe and lace? + Can any dresses find a way + To stop the approaches of decay + And mend a ruined face?"--Lord Dorset. + + +Up to the present time our mention of lace, both in the Statutes and the +Royal Wardrobe Accounts, has been but scanty. Suddenly, in the days of the +Virgin Queen, both the Privy Expenses and the Inventories of New Year's +Gifts overflow with notices of passaments, drawn-work, cut-work, crown +lace,[814] bone lace for ruffs, Spanish chain, byas,[815] parchment, +hollow,[816] billament,[817] and diamond {300}lace[818] in endless, and to +us, we must own, most incomprehensible variety. + +The Surtees' _Wills and Inventories_ add to our list the laces Waborne[819] +and many others. Lace was no longer confined to the court and high +nobility, but, as these inventories show, it had already found its way into +the general shops and stores of the provincial towns. In that of John +Johnston, merchant, of Darlington, already cited, we have twelve yards of +"loom" lace, value four shillings, black silk lace, "statute" lace, etc., +all mixed up with entries of pepper, hornbooks, sugar-candy, and spangles. +About the same date, in the inventory taken after the death of James +Backhouse, of Kirby-in-Lonsdale, are found enumerated "In y^e great +shoppe," thread lace at 16s. per gross; four dozen and four "pyrled" lace, +four shillings; four quarterns of statching (stitching or seaming?) lace; +lace edging; crown lace; hollow lace; copper lace; gold and silver chean +(chain) lace, etc. This last-mentioned merchant's store appears to have +been one of the best-furnished provincial shops of the period. That of John +Farbeck, of Durham, mercer, taken thirty years later, adds to our list +seventy-eight yards of velvet lace, coloured silk, chayne lace, "coorld" +lace, petticoat lace, all cheek by jowl with Venys gold and turpentine. + +To follow the "stitches" and "works" quoted in the Wardrobe Accounts of +Elizabeth--all made out in Latin, of which we sincerely trust, for the +honour of Ascham, the {301}Queen herself was guiltless--would be but as the +inventory of a haberdasher's shop. + +We have white stitch, "opus ret' alb," of which she had a kirtle, "pro le +hemmynge et edginge" of which, with "laqueo coronat' de auro et arg'"--gold +and silver crown lace--and "laqueo alb' lat' bon' operat' super +oss'"--broad white lace worked upon bone--she pays the sum of 35s.[820] + +Then there is the Spanish stitch, already mentioned as introduced by Queen +Katherine, and true stitch,[821] laid-work,[822] net-work, black-work,[823] +white-work, and cut-work. + +Of chain-stitch we have many entries, such as Six caules of knot-work, +worked with chain-stitch and bound "cum tapem" (tape), of sister's (nun's) +thread.[824] A scarf of white stitch-work appears also among the New Year's +Gifts. + +As regards the use, however, of these ornaments, the Queen stood no +nonsense. Luxury for herself was quite a different affair from that of the +people; for, on finding that the London apprentices had adopted the white +stitching and garding as a decoration for their collars, she put a stop to +all such finery by ordering[825] the first transgressor to be publicly +whipped in the hall of his Company. + +Laid-work, which maybe answers to our modern plumetis, or simply signified +a braid-work, adorned the royal garters, "Frauncie," which worked "cum +laidwork," stitched and trimmed "in ambobus lateribus" with gold and silver +lace, from which hung silver pendants, "tufted cum serico color," cost her +Majesty thirty-three shillings the pair.[826] + +{302}The description of these right royal articles appears to have given as +much trouble to describe as it does ourselves to translate the meaning of +her accountant. + +The drawn-work, "opus tract'," seems to have been but a drawing of thread +worked over silk. We have smocks thus wrought and decorated "cum lez ruffs +et wrestbands."[827] + +In addition to the already enumerated laces of Queen Elizabeth are the +bride laces of Coventry blue,[828] worn and given to the guests at +weddings, mentioned in the _Masques_ of Ben Jonson:[829]-- + + "CLOD.--And I have lost, beside my purse, my best bride-lace I had at + Joan Turnips' wedding. + + "FRANCES.--Ay, and I have lost my thimble and a skein of Coventry blue I + had to work Gregory Litchfield a handkerchief." + +When the Queen visited Kenilworth in 1577, a Bridall took place for the +pastime of her Majesty. "First," writes the Chancellor, "came all the lusty +lads and bold bachelors of the parish, every wight with his blue +bridesman's bride lace upon a braunch of green broom." What these bride +laces exactly were we cannot now tell. They continued in fashion till the +Puritans put down all festivals, ruined the {303}commerce of Coventry, and +the fabric of blue thread ceased for ever. It was probably a showy kind of +coarse trimming, like that implied by Mopsa in the _Winter's Tale_, when +she says-- + + "You promised me a tawdry lace:"[830] + +articles which, judging from the song of Autolycus-- + + "Will you buy any tape, + Or lace for your cape?" + +were already hawked about among the pedlars' wares throughout the country: +one of the "many laces" mentioned by Shakespeare.[831] + +Dismissing, then, her stitches, her laces, and the 3,000 gowns she left in +her wardrobe behind her--for, as Shakespeare says, "Fashion wears out more +apparel than the man"[832]--we must confine ourselves to those articles +immediately under our notice, cut-work, bone lace, and purle. + +Cut-work--"opus scissum," as it is termed by the Keeper of the Great +Wardrobe--was used by Queen Elizabeth to the greatest extent. She wore it +on her ruffs, "with lilies of the like, set with small seed pearl"; on her +doublets, "flourished with squares of silver owes"; on her forepart of +lawn, "flourished with silver and spangles";[833] on her +{304}cushion-cloths,[834] her veils, her tooth-cloths,[835] her smocks and +her nightcaps.[836] All nourished, spangled, and edged in a manner so +stupendous as to defy description. It was dizened out in one of these +last-named articles[837] that young Gilbert Talbot, son of Lord Shrewsbury, +caught a sight of the Queen while walking in the tilt-yard. Queen Elizabeth +at the window in her nightcap! What a goodly sight! That evening she gave +Talbot a good flap on the forehead, and told her chamberlain how the youth +had seen her "unready and in her night stuff," and how ashamed she was +thereof. + +Cut-work first appears in the New Year's Offerings of 1577-8, where, among +the most distinguished of the givers, we find the name of Sir Philip +Sidney, who on one occasion offers to his royal mistress a suit of ruffs of +cut-work, on another a smock--strange presents according to our modern +ideas. We read, however, that the offering of the youthful hero gave no +offence, but was most graciously received. Singular enough, there is no +entry of cut-work in the Great Wardrobe Accounts before that of 1584-5, +where there is a charge for mending, washing and starching a bodice and +cuffs of good white lawn, worked in divers places with broad spaces of +Italian cut-work, 20 shillings,[838] and another for the same operation to +a veil of white cut-work trimmed with needlework lace.[839] Cut-work was +probably still a rarity; and really, on reading the quantity offered to +Elizabeth on each recurring new year, there was scarcely any necessity for +her to purchase it herself. By the year 1586-7 the Queen's stock had +apparently diminished. Now, for the first time, she invests the sum of +sixty shillings in six yards of good ruff lawn, well worked, with cut-work, +and edged with good white lace.[840] {305}From this date the Great Wardrobe +Accounts swarm with entries such as a "sut' de lez ruffes de lawne," with +spaces of "opere sciss',"[841] "un' caule de lawne alb' sciss' cum le +edge," of similar work;[842] a "toga cum traine de opere sciss';"[843] all +minutely detailed in the most excruciating gibberish. Sometimes the +cut-work is of Italian[844] fabric, sometimes of Flanders;[845] the ruffs +edged with bone lace,[846] needle lace,[847] or purle.[848] + +The needle lace is described as "curiously worked," "operat' cum acu +curiose fact'," at 32s. the yard.[849] The dearest is specified as +Italian.[850] We give a specimen (Coloured Plate XV.) of English +workmanship, said to be of this period, which is very elaborate.[851] + +The thread used for lace is termed "filo soror," or nun's thread, such as +was fabricated in the convents of Flanders and Italy.[852] If, however, +Lydgate, in his ballad of "London Lackpenny," is an authority, that of +Paris was most prized:-- + + "Another he taked me by his hand, + Here is Paris thredde, the finest in the land." + +Queen Elizabeth was not patriotic; she got and wore her {306}bone lace from +whom she could, and from all countries. If she did not patronize English +manufacture, on the other hand, she did not encourage foreign artizans; for +when, in 1572, the Flemish refugees desired an asylum in England, they were +forcibly expelled from her shores. In the census of 1571, giving the names +of all the strangers in the City of London,[853] including the two makers +of Billament lace already cited, we have but four foreigners of the lace +craft: one described as "Mary Jurdaine, widow, of the French nation, and +maker of purled lace"; the other, the before-mentioned "Callys de Hove, of +Burgundy."[854] + +Various Acts[855] were issued during the reign of Elizabeth in order to +suppress the inordinate use of apparel. That of May, 1562,[856] though +corrected by Cecil himself, less summary than that framed against the +"white-work" of the apprentice boys, was of little or no avail. + +In 1568 a complaint was made to the Queen against the frauds practised by +the "16 appointed waiters," in reference to the importation of +haberdashery, etc., by which it appears that her Majesty was a loser of "5 +or 600 l. by yere at least" in the customs on "parsement, cap rebone bone +lace, cheyne lace," etc.,[857] but with what effect we know not. The annual +import of these articles is therein stated at £10,000, an enormous increase +since the year 1559, when, among the "necessary and unnecessary wares" +brought into the port of London,[858] together with "babies" (dolls), +"glasses to looke in," "glasses to drinke in," pottes, gingerbread, +cabbages, and other matters, we find enumerated, "Laces of all sortes, £775 +6s. 8d.," just one-half less than the more necessary, though less refined +item of "eles fresh and salt."[859] + +In 1573 Elizabeth again endeavoured to suppress "the silk glittering with +silver and gold lace," but in vain. + +{307}The Queen was a great lover of foreign novelties. All will call to +mind how she overhauled the French finery of poor Mary Stuart[860] on its +way to her prison, purloining and selecting for her own use any +new-fashioned article she craved. We even find Cecil, on the sly, penning a +letter to Sir Henry Norris, her Majesty's envoy to the court of France, +"that the Queen's Majesty would fain have a tailor that has skill to make +her apparel both after the French and Italian manner, and she thinketh you +might use some means to obtain such one as suiteth the Queen without +mentioning any manner of request in the Queen's Majesty's name." His lady +wife is to get one privately, without the knowledge coming to the Queen +Mother's ears, "as she does not want to be beholden to her." + +It is not to be wondered at, then, that the New Year's Gifts and Great +Wardrobe Accounts[861] teem with entries of "doublets of peche satten all +over covered with cut-work and lyned with a lace of Venyse gold,[862] +kyrtells of white satten embroidered with purles of gold-like clouds, and +layed round about with a bone lace of Venys gold."[863] This gold lace +appears upon her petticoats everywhere varied by bone lace of Venys +silver.[864] + +That the Queen drew much fine thread point from the same locality her +portraits testify, especially that preserved in the royal gallery of +Gripsholm, in Sweden, once the property of her ill-fated admirer, Eric XIV. +She wears a ruff, cuffs, tucker, and apron of geometric lace, of exquisite +fineness, stained of a pale citron colour, similar to the liquid invented +by Mrs. Turner, of Overbury memory, or, maybe, adopted from the +saffron-tinted smocks of the Irish, the wearing of which she herself had +prohibited. We find among her entries laces of Jean[865] and Spanish lace; +she did not even disdain bone lace of copper, and copper and silver {308}at +18d. the ounce.[866] Some of her furnishers are English. One Wylliam Bowll +supplies the Queen with "lace of crowne purle."[867] Of her sylkwoman, +Alice Mountague, she has bone lace wrought with silver and spangles, sold +by the owner at nine shillings.[868] + +The Queen's smocks are entered as wrought with black work and edged with +bone lace of gold of various kinds. We have ourselves seen a smock said to +have been transmitted as an heirloom in one family from generation to +generation.[869] It is of linen cloth embroidered in red silk, with her +favourite pattern of oak-leaves and butterflies (Fig. 122). Many entries of +these articles, besides that of Sir Philip Sidney's, appear among the New +Year's Gifts.[870] + +[Illustration: Fig. 122. + +QUEEN ELIZABETH'S SMOCK.] + +It was then the custom for the sponsors to give {309}"christening shirts," +with little bands and cuffs edged with laces of gold and various kinds--a +relic of the ancient custom of presenting white clothes to the neophytes +when converted to Christianity. The "bearing cloth,"[871] as the mantle +used to cover the child when carried to baptism was called,[872] was also +richly trimmed with lace and cut-work, and the Tree of Knowledge, the Holy +Dove (Fig. 123), or the Flowerpot of the Annunciation (Fig. 124), was +worked in "hollie-work" on the crown of the infant's cap or "biggin." + +[Illustration: Fig. 123.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 124.] + +CHRISTENING CAPS, NEEDLE-MADE BRUSSELS.--Eighteenth century. + +Aprons, too, of lace appeared in this reign. The Queen, as we have +mentioned, wears one in her portrait at Gripsholm.[873] + + "Those aprons white, of finest thread, + So choicelie tied, so dearly bought; + So finely fringed, so nicely spread; + So quaintly cut, so richly wrought," + +writes the author of _Pleasant Quippes for Upstart Gentlewomen_, {310}in +1596. The fashion continued to the end of the eighteenth century. + +Laced handkerchiefs now came into fashion. "Maydes and gentlewomen," writes +Stowe, "gave to their favourites, as tokens of their love, little +handkerchiefs of about three or four inches square, wrought round about," +with a button at each corner.[874] The best were edged with a small gold +lace. Gentlemen wore them in their hats as favours of their mistresses. +Some cost sixpence, some twelvepence, and the richest sixteenpence. + +Of the difference between purles and true lace it is difficult now to +decide. The former word is of frequent occurrence among the New Year's +Gifts, where we have "sleeves covered all over with purle,"[875] and, in +one case, the sleeves are offered unmade, with "a piece of purle upon a +paper to edge them."[876] It was yet an article of great value and worthy +almost of entail, for, in 1573, Elizabeth Sedgwicke, of Wathrape, widow, +bequeaths to her daughter Lassells, of Walbron, "an edge of perlle for a +remembrance, desirying her to give it to one of her daughters."[877] + +We now turn, before quitting the sixteenth century, to that most portentous +of all fabrications--Queen Elizabeth's ruff. + +In the time of the Plantagenets Flemish tastes prevailed. With the Tudors, +Katherine of Aragon, on her marriage with Prince Arthur, introduced the +Spanish fashions, and the inventories from Henry VIII. downwards are filled +with Spanish work, Spanish stitch, and so forth. Queen Elizabeth leant to +the French and Italian modes, and during the Stuarts they were universally +adopted. + +The ruff was first introduced into England about the reign of Philip and +Mary. These sovereigns are both represented on the Great Seal of England +with small ruffs about {311}their necks, and with diminutive ones of the +same form encircling the wrists.[878] This Spanish ruff was not ornamented +with lace. On the succession of Queen Elizabeth the ruff had increased to a +large size, as we see portrayed on her Great Seal. + +The art of starching, though known to the manufacturers of Flanders, did +not reach England until 1564, when the Queen first set up a coach. Her +coachman, named Gwyllam Boenen, was a Dutchman; his wife understood the art +of starching, a secret she seems exclusively to have possessed, and of +which the Queen availed herself until the arrival, some time after, of +Madame Dinghen van der Plasse, who, with her husband, came from Flanders +"for their better safeties,"[879] and set up as a clear-starcher in London. + +"The most curious wives," says Stowe, "now made themselves ruffs of +cambric, and sent them to Madame Dinghen to be starched, who charged high +prices. After a time they made themselves ruffs of lawn, and thereupon +arose a general scoff, or by-word, that shortly they would make their ruffs +of spiders' webs." Mrs. Dinghen at last took their daughters as her pupils. +Her usual terms were from four to five pounds for teaching them to starch, +and one pound for the art of seething starch.[880] The nobility patronised +her, but the commonalty looked on her as the evil one, and called her +famous liquid "devil's broth." + +To keep the ruff erect, bewired[881] and starched though it be, was a +troublesome affair--its falling a cause of agony to the wearer. + + "Not so close, thy breath will draw my ruff," + +exclaims the fop. The tools used in starching and fluting {312}ruffs were +called setting-sticks, struts and poking-sticks: the two first were made of +wood or bone, the poking-stick of iron, and heated in the fire. By this +heated tool the fold acquired that accurate and seemly order which +constituted the beauty of this very preposterous attire. It was about the +year 1576, according to Stowe, the making of poking-sticks began. They +figure in the expenses of Elizabeth, who, in 1592, pays to her blacksmith, +one Thomas Larkin, "pro 2 de lez setting-stickes at 2s. 6d." the sum of +5s.[882] + +We have frequent allusion to the article in the plays of the day:--[883] + + "Your ruff must stand in print, and for that purpose, get poking-sticks + with fair long handles, lest they scorch your hands."[884] + +Again, in _Laugh and Lie Down_--[885] + + "There she sat with her poking-stick, stiffening a fall." + +When the use of starch and poking-sticks had rendered the arrangement of a +ruff easy, the size began rapidly to increase. "Both men and women wore +them intolerably large, being a quarter of a yard deep, and twelve lengths +in a ruff."[886] In London this fashion was termed the French ruff; in +France, on the other hand, it was called "the English monster."[887] Queen +Elizabeth wore hers higher and stiffer than anyone in Europe, save the +Queen of Navarre, for she had a "yellow throat," and was desirous to +conceal it.[888] Woe betide any fair lady of the court who dared let her +white skin appear uncovered in the presence of majesty. Her ruffs were made +of the finest cut-work, enriched with gold, silver, and even precious +stones. Though she consumed endless yards of cut-work, purle, needlework +lace, bone lace of gold, of silver, enriched with pearls, and bugles, +{313}and spangles in the fabrication of the "three-piled ruff,"[889] she by +no means extended such liberty to her subjects, for she selected grave +citizens and placed them at every gate of the city to cut the ruffs if they +exceeded the prescribed depth. These "pillars of pride" form a numerous +item among the New Year's Gifts. Each lady seems to have racked her brain +to invent some novelty as yet unheard of to gratify the Queen's vanity. On +the new year 1559-60, the Countess of Worcester offers a ruff of lawn +cut-work set with twenty small knots like mullets, garnished with small +sparks of rubies and pearls.[890] + +The cut-work ruff is decorated or enriched with ornament of every +description. Nothing could be too gorgeous or too extravagant.[891] Great +was the wrath of old Philip Stubbes[892] at these monstrosities, which, +standing out a quarter of a yard or more, "if Æolus with his blasts or +Neptune with his stormes chaunce to hit upon the crazie bark or their +bruised ruffes, then they goe flip flap in the winde like ragges that flew +abroade, lying upon their shoulders like the dishclout of a slut. But wot +ye what? the devill, as he, in the fulnesse of his malice, first invented +these great ruffes," etc., with a great deal more, which, as it comes +rather under the head of costume than lace, we omit, as foreign to our +subject. + +Lace has always been made of human hair, and of this we have frequent +mention in the expenses of Queen Elizabeth. We believe the invention to be +far older than her reign, for there is frequent allusion to it in the early +romaunces. In the _Chevalier aux ij Epées_ (MS. Bib. Nat.), a lady requires +of King Ris that he should present her with a mantle fringed with the +beards of nine conquered kings, and hemmed with that of King Arthur, who +was yet to conquer. The mantle is to have "de sa barbe le tassel." {314}The +entries of Elizabeth, however, are of a less heroic nature; and though we +are well aware it was the custom of old ladies to weave into lace their +silver-grey locks, and much as the fashion of hair bracelets and chains +prevails, in Queen Elizabeth's case, setting aside all sentiment, we cannot +help fancying the "laquei fact' de crine brayded cum lez risinge +puffs,"[893] as well as the "devices fact' de crine similiter les scallop +shells,"[894] to have been nothing more than "stuffings"--false additions, +to swell the majesty of the royal "pirrywygge." + +That point tresse, as this hair-lace is called, was known in her day, we +have evidence in the Chartley inventory of Mary Stuart, in which is +mentioned, "Un petit quarré fait à point tresse ouvré par la vieille +Comtesse de Lennox elle estant à la Tour"; a tribute of affection the old +countess would scarcely have offered to her daughter-in-law had she +regarded her as implicated in the murder of her son. The writer saw at +Chantilly an aged lace-maker employed in making a lace ground of hair on +the pillow, used, she was informed, by wig-makers to give the parting of +the hair; but the fabric must be identical with the point tresse sent by +the mother of Darnley to the Queen of Scots. Point tresse, when made out of +the hair of aged people, is occasionally to be met with on the Continent, +where, from its rarity, it fetches a high price. Some districts gained a +reputation for their work, according to Turner:--"And Bedford's matrons +wove their snowy locks." It may be detected by the glittering of the hair +when held up to catch the sunbeams, or by frizzing when exposed to the test +of fire, instead of blazing. + +With this mention of point tresse we conclude the reign of Queen Elizabeth. + + + + +{315}CHAPTER XXIV. + +JAMES I. TO THE RESTORATION. + + +---- + +JAMES I. + + "Now up aloft I mount unto the Ruffe, + Which into foolish mortals pride doth puffe; + Yet Ruffe's antiquity is here but small: + Within these eighty years not one at all. + For the 8th Henry, as I understand, + Was the first king that ever wore a Band, + And but a falling band plaine with a hem, + All other people knew no use of them." + Taylor, "Water-Poet." 1640. + +The ruff single, double, three piled, and Dædalian,[895] to the delight of +the satirists, retained its sway during the early days of King James I. It +was the "commode" of the eighteenth--the crinoline of the nineteenth +century. Every play teems with allusions to this monstrosity. One compares +it to + + "A pinched lanthorn + Which schoolboys made in winter;"[896] + +while a second[897] talks of a + + "Starched ruff, like a new pigeon-house." + +The lover, in the play of the _Antiquary_,[898] complains to his mistress +in pathetic terms-- + + "Do you not remember how you fooled me, and set me to pin pleats in your + ruff two hours together?" + +{316}Stubbes stood not alone in his anathemas. The dignitaries of the +Church of England waxed wroth, and violent were their pulpit invectives. + +"Fashion," emphatically preached John King,[899] Bishop of London, "has +brought in deep ruffs[900] and shallow ruffs, thick ruffs and thin ruffs, +double ruffs and no ruffs. When the Judge of quick and dead shall appear, +he will not know those who have so defaced the fashion he hath created." +The Bishop of Exeter, too, Joseph Hall, a good man, but no prophet, little +wotting how lace-making would furnish bread and comfort to the women of his +own diocese for centuries to come, in a sermon preached at the Spitel, +after a long vituperation against its profaneness, concludes with these +words: "But if none of our persuasions can prevail, hear this, ye garish +popinjays of our time, if ye will not be ashamed to clothe yourselves after +this shameless fashion, Heaven shall clothe you with shame and confusion. +Hear this, ye plaister-faced Jezabels, if ye will not leave your daubs and +your washes, Heaven will one day wash them off with fire and brimstone." +Whether these denunciations had the effect of lessening the ruffs we know +not; probably it only rendered them more exaggerated. + +Of these offending adjuncts to the toilet of both sexes we have fine +illustrations in the paintings of the day, as well as in the monuments of +our cathedrals and churches.[901] They were composed of the finest +geometric lace, such as we see portrayed in the works of Vinciolo and +others. The artists of the day took particular pleasure in depicting them +with the most exquisite minuteness. + +These ruffs must have proved expensive for the wearer, though in James I.'s +time, as Ben Jonson has it, men thought little of "turning four or five +hundred acres of their best land into two or three trunks of apparel."[902] +According to the Wardrobe Accounts,[903] "twenty-five yards of fyne bone +lace" was required to edge a ruff, without counting the ground, composed +either of lace squares or cut-work. Queen Anne, his consort, pays £5 for +her wrought ruff, for "shewing" which eighteen yards of fine lace are +purchased at 5s. 8d.[904] + +PLATE LXXIX. + +[Illustration: MARY SIDNEY, COUNTESS OF PEMBROKE, IN 1614. +1555?--1621.--Probably by Marc Gheeraedts. National Portrait Gallery. + +Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] + +_To face page 316._ + +{317}The ruffs of the City ladye were kept downe by the old sumptuary law +of Elizabeth. + +"See, now, that you have not your 'city ruff' on, Mistress Sue," says +Mistress Simple in the _City Match_.[905] + +The Overbury murder (1613), and hanging of Mrs. Turner at Tyburn in 1615, +are usually said, on the authority of Howel,[906] to have put an end to the +fashion of yellow ruffs, but the following extracts show they were worn for +some years later. + +As late as 1620 the yellow starch, supposed to give a rich hue to the lace +and cut-work of which ruffs were "built," gave scandal to the clergy. The +Dean of Westminster ordered no lady or gentleman wearing yellow ruffs to be +admitted into any pew in his church; but finding this "ill taken," and the +King "moved in it," he ate his own words, and declared it to be all a +mistake.[907] This fashion, again, gave great offence even in France. Since +the English[908] {318}alliance, writes the _Courtisane à la Mode_, +1625,[909] "cette mode Anglaise sera cause qu'il pourra advenir une cherté +sur le safran qui fera que les Bretons et les Poitevins seront contraints +de manger leur beurre blanc et non pas jaune, comme ils sont accoutumés." + +The Bishops, who first denounced the ruff, themselves held to the fashion +long after it had been set aside by all other professions. Folks were not +patriotic in their tastes, as in more modern days; they loved to go "as far +as Paris to fetch over a fashion and come back again."[910] + +The lace of Flanders, with the costly points and cut-works of Italy,[911] +now became the rage, and continued so for nigh two centuries. Ben Jonson +speaks of the "ruffs and cuffs of Flanders,"[912] while Lord Bacon, +indignant at the female caprice of the day, writes to Sir George +Villiers:--"Our English dames are much given to the wearing of costly +laces, and if they may be brought from Italy, or France, or Flanders, they +are in much esteem; whereas, if like laces were made by the English, so +much thread would make a yard of lace, being put into that manufacture, +would be five times, or perhaps ten or twenty times the value."[913] But +Bacon had far better have looked at home, for he had himself, when +Chancellor, granted an exclusive patent to Sir Giles Mompesson, the +original of Sir Giles Overreach, for the monopoly of the sale and +manufacture of gold and silver thread, the abuses of which caused in part +his fall.[914] + +James had half ruined the commerce of England by the granting of +monopolies, which, says Sir John Culpepper, are "as numerous as the frogs +of Egypt. They have got possession of our dwellings, they sip in our cups, +they dip in our {319}dish. They sit by our fire. We find them in the +dye-vat, wash-bowl, and powdering-tub, etc.; they have marked and sealed us +from head to foot."[915] The bone-lace trade suffered alike with other +handicrafts.[916] In 1606 James had already given a license to the Earl of +Suffolk[917] for the import of gold and silver lace. In 1621, alarmed by +the general complaints throughout the kingdom,[918] a proposition was made +"for the erection of an Office of Pomp, to promote home manufactures," and +to repress pride by levying taxes on all articles of luxury.[919] What +became of the Pomp Office we cannot pretend to say: the following year we +are somewhat taken aback by a petition[920] from two Dutchmen, of Dort, +showing "that the manufacture of gold and silver thread, purle, etc., in +England" was "a great waste of bullion," the said Dutchmen being, we may +infer, of opinion that it was more to their advantage to import such +articles themselves. After a lapse of three years the petition is +granted.[921] In the midst of all this granting and rescinding of +monopolies, we hear in the month of April, 1623, how the decay of the +bone-lace trade at Great Marlow caused great poverty.[922] + +Though the laces of Flanders and Italy were much patronised by the court +and high nobility, Queen Anne of Denmark appears to have given some +protection to the fabrics of the country. Poor Queen Anne! When, on the +news of Elizabeth's death, James hurried off to England, a correspondence +took place between the King and the English Privy Council regarding the +Queen's outfit, James considering, {320}and wisely--for the Scotch court +was always out of elbows--that his wife's wardrobe was totally unfit to be +produced in London. To remedy the deficiency, the Council forwarded to the +Queen, by the hands of her newly-named ladies, a quantity of Elizabeth's +old gowns and ruffs, wherewith to make a creditable appearance on her +arrival in England. Elizabeth had died at the age of seventy, wizened, +decayed, and yellow--Anne, young and comely, had but just attained her +twenty-sixth year. The rage of the high-spirited dame knew no bounds; she +stormed with indignation--wear the clothes she must, for there were no +others--so in revenge she refused to appoint any of the ladies, save Lady +Bedford, though nominated by the King, to serve about her person in +England. On her arrival she bought a considerable quantity of linen, and as +with the exception of one article,[923] purchased from a "French mann," her +"nidell purle worke," her "white worke," her "small nidell worke," her +"pece of lawin to bee a ruffe," with "eighteen yards of fine lace to shewe +(sew) the ruffe," the "Great Bone" lace, and "Little Bone" lace were +purchased at Winchester and Basing, towns bordering on the lace-making +counties, leading us to infer them to have been of English +manufacture.[924] + +The bill of laced linen purchased at the "Queen's lying down" on the birth +of the Princess Sophia, in 1606, amounts to the sum of £614 5s. 8d.[925] In +this we have no mention of any foreign-made laces. The child lived but +three days. Her little monument, of cradle-form, with lace-trimmed +coverlets and sheets (Fig. 125), stands close to the recumbent effigy of +her sister Mary[926] (Fig. 126), with ruff, collar, and cap of geometric +lace, in the north aisle of Henry VII.'s Chapel.[927] + +PLATE LXXX. + +[Illustration: HENRY WRIOTHESLEY, THIRD EARL OF SOUTHAMPTON, +1573-1624.--Probably painted in Holland about 1620, by Michiel Van +Miereveldt. National Portrait Gallery. + +Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] + +_To face page 320._ + +{321}[Illustration: Fig. 125. + +MONUMENT OF THE PRINCESS SOPHIA. + 1606. FOURTH DAUGHTER OF JAMES I. +(Westminster Abbey.)] + +After a time--epoch of the Spanish marriage[928]--the ruff {322}gave way to +the "falling band," so familiar to us in the portraits of Rubens and +Vandyke. + +"There is such a deal of pinning these ruffs, when a fine clean fall is +worth them all," says the Malcontent. "If you should chance to take a nap +in the afternoon, your falling band requires no poking-stick to recover +it."[929] Cut-work still continued in high favour; it was worn on every +article of linen, from the richly-wrought collar to the nightcap. The +Medicean ruff or gorget of the Countess of Pembroke ("Sidney's sister, +Pembroke's mother"), with its elaborate border of swans (Fig. 127), is a +good illustration of the fashion of her time. + +[Illustration: Fig. 126. + +MONUMENT OF THE PRINCESS MARY. + 1607. THIRD DAUGHTER OF JAMES I. +(Westminster Abbey.)] + +Among the early entries of Prince Charles, we have four nightcaps of +cut-work, £7,[930] for making two of which for his {323}Highness, garnished +with gold and silver lace, Patrick Burke receives £15;[931] but these +modest entries are quite put to shame by those of his royal father, who, +for ten yards of needlework lace "pro le edginge" of his "galiriculis vulgo +nightcaps," pays £16 13s. 4d.[932] Well might the Water-Poet exclaim-- + + "A nightcap is a garment of high state."[933] + +[Illustration: Fig. 127. + +MARY, COUNTESS OF PEMBROKE. + 1621. (From her portrait in Walpole's _Royal +and Noble Authors_.)] + +When Queen Anne died, in 1619, we have an elaborate {324}account of her +funeral,[934] and of the sum paid to Dorothy Speckart for dressing a hearse +effigy with a large veil, wired and edged with peak lace and lawn, +curiously cut in flowers, etc. Laced linen, however, was already discarded +in mourning attire, for we find in the charges for the king's mourning +ruffs, an edging at 14d. the piece is alone recorded.[935] + +Towards the end of James I.'s reign a singular custom came into fashion, +brought in by the Puritan ladies, that of representing religious subjects, +both in lace, cut-work, and embroidery, a fashion hitherto confined to +church vestments. We find constant allusions to it in the dramatists of the +day. Thus, in the _City Match_,[936] we read-- + + "She works religious petticoats, for flowers + She'll make church histories. Her needle doth + So sanctify my cushionets, besides + My smock sleeves have such holy embroideries, + And are so learned, that I fear in time + All my apparel will be quoted by + Some pious instructor." + +Again, in the _Custom of the Country_--[937] + + "Sure you should not be + Without a neat historical shirt." + +{325}We find in a Scotch inventory[938] of the seventeenth century: "Of +Holland scheittes ii pair, quhairof i pair schewit (sewed) with hollie +work."[939] + +The entries of this reign, beyond the "hollie work," picked[940] and +seaming[941] lace, contain little of any novelty; all articles of the +toilet were characterised by a most reckless extravagance. + +"There is not a gentleman now in the fashion," says Peacham,[942] "whose +band of Italian cut-work now standeth him not in the least three or four +pounds. Yes, a semster in Holborn told me that there are of threescore +pounds." We read how two-thirds of a woman's dower was often expended in +the purchase of cut-work and Flanders lace. + +In the warrant of the Great Wardrobe for the marriage expenses of the +ill-fated Princess Elizabeth, on which occasion it is recorded of poor +Arabella Stuart, the "Lady Arabella, though still in the Tower, has shewn +her joy by buying four new gowns, one of which cost £1,500,"[943] in +addition to "gold cheine laze, silver spangled, silver looped, myllen bone +lace, drawneworke poynte, black silk Naples lace," etc., all in the most +astonishing quantity, we have the astounding entry of 1,692 ounces of +silver bone lace.[944] No wonder, in {326}after days, the Princess caused +so much anxiety to the Palatine's Privy Purse, Colonel Schomberg, who in +vain implores her to have her linen and lace bought beforehand, and paid at +every fair.[945] "You brought," he writes, "£3,000 worth of linen from +England, and have bought £1,000 worth here," and yet "you are ill +provided."[946] + + +CHARLES I. + + "Embroider'd stockings, cut-work smocks and shirts." + --Ben Jonson. + +Ruffs may literally be said to have gone out with James I. His son Charles +is represented on the coins of the two first years of his reign in a stiff +starched ruff;[947] in the fourth and fifth we see the ruff unstarched, +falling down on his shoulders,[948] and afterwards, the falling band (Fig. +128) was generally adopted, and worn by all classes save the judges, who +stuck to the ruff as a mark of dignity and decorum, till superseded by the +peruke.[949] + +PLATE LXXXI. + +[Illustration: ELIZABETH, PRINCESS PALATINE, GRANDDAUGHTER OF JAMES I., +1618-1680.--Probably about 1638. By Gerard Honthorst. National Portrait +Gallery. + +Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] + +_To face page 326._ + +{327}[Illustration: Fig. 128. + +FALLING COLLAR OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.--(After Abraham Bosse.)] + + +Even loyal Oxford, conscientious to a hair's-breadth--always behind the +rest of the world--when Whitelock, in 1635, addresses the Quarter Sessions +arrayed in the new fashion, owned "one may speak as good sense in a falling +band as in a ruff." The change did not, however, diminish the extravagance +of the age. The bills for the King's lace and linen, which in the year 1625 +amounted to £1,000, in course of time rose to £1,500.[950] Falling bands of +Flanders bone lace and cut-work appear constantly in the accounts.[951] As +the foreign materials are carefully specified (it was one of these +articles, then a novelty, that Queen Anne of Denmark "bought of the French +Mann"), we may infer much of the bobbin or bone lace to have been of home +produce. As Ben Jonson says, "Rich apparel has strong virtues." It is, he +adds, "the birdlime of fools." There was, indeed, no article of toilet at +this period which was not encircled with lace--towels, sheets, shirts, +caps, cushions, boots (Fig. 129), cuffs (Fig. 130)--and, as too often +occurs in the case of excessive luxury, when the bills came in money was +wanting to {328}discharge them, Julian Elliott, the royal lace merchant, +seldom receiving more than half her account, and in 1630--nothing.[952] +There were, as Shakespeare says, + + "Bonds entered into + For gay apparel against the triumph day."[953] + +The quantity of needlework purl consumed on the king's hunting collars, +"colares pro venatione," scarcely appears credible. One entry alone makes +994 yards for 12 collars and 24 pairs of cuffs.[954] Again, 600 yards of +fine bone lace is charged for trimming the ruffs of the King's +night-clothes.[955] + +[Illustration: Fig. 129. + +From an Engraving of Abraham Bosse.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 130. + +From an Engraving of Abraham Bosse.] + +The art of lace-making was now carried to great perfection in England; so +much so, that the lease of twenty-one years, granted in 1627 to Dame +Barbara Villiers, of the duties on gold and silver thread, became a +terrible loss to the holder, who, in 1629, petitions for a discharge of +£437 10s. arrears due to the Crown. The prayer is favourably received by +the officers of the Customs, to whom it was referred, who answer they +"conceive those duties will decay, for the invention of making Venice gold +and silver lace within the kingdom is come to that perfection, that it will +be made here more cheap than it can be brought from beyond seas."[956] The +fancy for foreign articles still prevailed. "Among the goods brought in by +Tristram Stephens," writes Sir John Hippisley, from Dover Castle, "are the +bravest French bandes that ever I did see for ladies--they be fit for the +Queen."[957] + +[Illustration: Fig. 131. + +ENGLISH NEEDLE-MADE LACE. + +_To face page 328._] + +{329}Gold lace was exported in considerable quantities to India in the days +of James I.;[958] and now, in 1631, we find the "riband roses," edged with +lace, notified among the articles allowed to be exported. These lace +rosette-trimmed shoes were in vogue in the time of James I., and when first +brought to that monarch he refused to adopt the fashion, asking, "If they +wanted to make a ruffe-footed dove of him." They were afterwards worn in +all the extravagance of the French court. (See France to Louis XIV.). Mr. +Brooks, in his speech in the House of Commons against costly apparel (18 +James I.), says, "Nowadays, the roses worn by Members of the House on their +shoes are more than their father's apparel." Peacham speaks of "shoe ties, +that goe under the name of roses, from thirty shillings to three, four, and +five pounds the pair. Yea, a gallant of the time, not long since, paid +thirty pounds for a pair.[959] Well might Taylor say they + + "Wear a farm in shoe-strings edged with gold, + And spangled garters worth a copyhold." + +It was not till the year 1635 that an effort was made for {330}the +protection of our home fabrics, "at the request and for the benefit of the +makers of those goods in and near London, and other parts of the realm, now +brought to great want and necessity, occasioned by the excessive +importation of these foreign wares." Foreign "Purles, Cutworks, or +Bone-laces, or any commodities laced or edged therewith," are strictly +prohibited. Orders are also given that all purles, cut-works, and bone +laces English made are to be taken to a house near the sign of the "Red +Hart" in Fore Street, without Cripplegate, and there sealed by Thomas Smith +or his deputy.[960] + +An Act the same year prohibits the use of "gold or silver purles" except +manufactured in foreign parts, and especially forbids the melting down any +coin of the realm. + +The manufacture of bone lace in England had now much improved, and was held +in high estimation in France. We hear of Henrietta Maria sending ribbons, +lace, and other fashions from England, in 1636, as a present to her +sister-in-law, Anne of Austria;[961] while, in a letter dated February 7th, +1636, the Countess of Leicester writes to her husband, then in France, who +had requested her to procure him some fine bone lace of English make:--"The +present for the Queen of France I will be careful to provide, but it cannot +be handsome for that proportion of money which you do mention; for these +bone laces, if they be good, are dear, and I will send the best, for the +honor of my nation and my own credit." + +Referring to the same demand, the Countess again writes to her lord, May +18th, 1637, Leicester House:--"All my present for the Queen of France is +provided, which I have done with great care and some trouble; the expenses +I cannot yet directly tell you, but I think it will be about £120, for the +bone laces are extremely dear. I intend to {331}send it by Monsieur +Ruvigny, for most of the things are of new fashion, and if I should keep +them they would be less acceptable, for what is new now will quickly grow +common, such things being sent over almost every week." + +We can have no better evidence of the improvement in the English lace +manufacture than these two letters. + +An Act of 1638 for reforming abuses in the manufacture of lace, by which +competent persons are appointed, whether natives or strangers, "who shall +be of the Church of England," can scarcely have been advantageous to the +community. + +Lace, since the Reformation, had disappeared from the garments of the +Church. In the search warrants made after Jesuits and priests of the Roman +faith, it now occasionally peeps out. In an inventory of goods seized at +the house of some Jesuit priests at Clerkenwell, in 1627, we find--"One +faire Alb of cambric, with needle worke purles about the skirts, necke, and +bandes." + +Smuggling, too, had appeared upon the scene. In 1621 information is laid, +how Nicholas Peeter, master of the "Greyhound, of Apsom," had landed at +Dover sundry packets of cut-workes and bone laces without paying the +Customs.[962] + +But the + + "Rebatoes, ribbands, cuffs, ruffs, falls, + Scarfes, feathers, fans, maskes, muffs, laces, cauls,"[963] + +of King Charles's court were soon to disperse at the now outbreaking +Revolution. The Herrn Maior Frau (Lady Mayoress), the noble English lady +depicted by Hollar,[964] must now lay aside her whisk, edged with broad +lace of needle point, and no longer hie to St. Martin's for lace:[965] she +must content herself with a plain attire. + + "Sempsters with ruffs and cuffs, and quoifs and caules + And falls,"[966] + +must be dismissed. Smocks of three pounds a-piece,[967] {332}wrought +smocks,[968] are no longer worn by all--much less those "seam'd thro' with +cutwork,"[969] or "lace to her smocks, broad seaming laces,"[970] which, +groans one of the Puritan writers, "is horrible to think of." + +The ruff and cuffs of Flanders, gold lace cut-work and silver lace of +curle,[971] needle point, and fine gartering with blown roses,[972] are now +suppressed under Puritan rule. + +The "fop" whom Henry Fitz-Geoffrey describes as having + + "An attractive lace + And whalebone bodies for the better grace," + +must now think twice before he wears it.[973] + +The officer, whom the poor soldier apostrophises as shining-- + + "One blaze of plate about you, which puts out + Our eyes when we march 'gainst the sunne, and armes you + Compleatly with your own gold lace, which is + Laid on so thick, that your own trimmings doe + Render you engine proof, without more arms"--[974] + +must no longer boast of + + "This shirt five times victorious I have fought under, + And cut through squadrons of your curious Cut-work, + As I will do through mine."[975] + +In the Roundhead army he will scarce deign to comb his cropped locks. All +is now dingy, of a sad colour, soberly in character with the tone of the +times. + +PLATE LXXXII. + +[Illustration: JAMES HARRINGTON, Author of "Oceana," 1611-1677. Between +1630-1640. By Gerard Honthorst. National Portrait Gallery. + +Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] + +_To face page 332._ + + +{333}THE COMMONWEALTH. + +The rule of the Puritans was a sad time for lace-makers, as regards the +middle and lower classes: every village festival, all amusement was put +down, bride laces and Mayings--all were vanity. + +With respect to the upper classes, the Puritan ladies, as well as the men +of birth, had no fancy for exchanging the rich dress of the Stuart Court +for that of the Roundheads. Sir Thomas Fairfax, father of the General, is +described as wearing a buff coat, richly ornamented with silver lace, his +trunk hose trimmed with costly Flanders lace, his breastplate partly +concealed by a falling collar of the same material. The foreign Ambassadors +of the Parliament disdained the Puritan fashions. Lady Fanshaw describes +her husband as wearing at the Court of Madrid, on some State occasion, "his +linen very fine, laced with very rich Flanders lace."[976] + +Indeed, it was not till the arrival of the Spanish envoy, the first +accredited to the Protectorate of Cromwell, that Harrison begged Colonel +Hutchinson and Lord Warwick to set an example to other nations at the +audience, and not appear in gold and silver lace. Colonel Hutchinson, +though he saw no harm in a rich dress, yet not to appear offensive, came +next day in a plain black suit, as did the other gentlemen, when, to the +astonishment of all, Harrison appeared in a scarlet coat so laden with +"clinquaint" and lace as to hide the material of which it was made, +showing, remarks Mrs. Hutchinson, "his godly speeches were only made that +he might appear braver above the rest in the eyes of the strangers." + +Nor did the mother of Cromwell lay aside these adornments. She wore a +handkerchief, of which the broad point-lace alone could be seen, and her +green velvet cardinal was edged with broad gold lace.[977] Cromwell +himself, when once in power, became more particular in his dress; and if he +lived as a Puritan, his body after death was more gorgeously attired than +that of any deceased sovereign, with purple velvet, ermine, and the richest +Flanders lace.[978] His effigy, {334}carved by one Symonds, was clad in a +fine shirt of Holland, richly laced; he wore bands and cuffs of the same +materials, and his clothes were covered with gold lace.[979] + +The more we read the more we feel convinced that the dislike manifested by +the Puritan leaders to lace and other luxuries was but a political +necessity, in order to follow the spirit of the age. + +As an illustration of this opinion we may cite that in the account of the +disbursements of the Committee of Safety, 1660, a political _jeu d'esprit_ +which preceded the Restoration, we find entered for Lady Lambert-- + +"Item, for seven new whisks lac'd with Flanders lace of the last Edition, +each whisk is valued at fifty pound, £350." + +Followed up by-- + +"Six new Flanders lac'd smocks, £300." + +The whisk, as the gorget was now termed, was as great an object of +extravagance to the women as was the falling band to the men. It continued +in fashion during the reign of Charles II., and is often mentioned as lost +or stolen among the advertisements in the public journals of the day. In +the _Mercurius Publicus_, May 8th, 1662, we find: "A cambric whisk with +Flanders lace, about a quarter of a yard broad, and a lace turning up about +an inch broad, with a stock in the neck, and a strap hanging down before, +was lost between the new Palace and Whitehall. Reward, 30_s_." Again, in +_The Newes_, June 20th, 1664: "Lost, a Tiffany whisk, with a great lace +down, and a little one up, large Flowers, and open Work, with a Roul for +the head and Peak." + + + + +{335}CHAPTER XXV. + +CHARLES II. TO THE HOUSE OF HANOVER. + +---- + +CHARLES II. + + "The dangling knee-fringe, and the bib-cravat." + --Dryden. _Prologue._ 1674. + +The taste for luxury only required the restoration of the Stuarts to burst +out in full vigour. + +The following year Charles II. issued a proclamation[980] enforcing the Act +of his father prohibiting the entry of foreign bone lace; but, far from +acting as he preached, he purchases Flanders lace at eighteen shillings the +yard, for the trimming of his fine lawn "collobium sindonis,"[981] a sort +of surplice worn during the ceremony of the anointment at the coronation. + +The hand-spinners of gold wire, thread lace, and spangles of the City of +London, no longer puritanically inclined, now speak out boldly. "Having +heard a report the Parliament intend to pass an Act against the wearing of +their manufacture, they hope it intends the reform, not the destruction of +their craft, for by it many thousands would be ruined. Let every person," +say they, "be prohibited from wearing gold, silver, and thread lace--that +will encourage the gentry to do so."[982] + +In 1662 is passed an Act prohibiting the importation of foreign bone lace, +cut-works, etc., setting forth, "Whereas many poor children have attained +great dexterity in the {336}making thereof, the persons so employed have +served most parts of the kingdom with bone lace, and for the carrying out +of the same trade have caused much thread to be brought into the country, +whereby the customs have been greatly advanced, until of late large +quantities of bone lace, cut-work, etc., were brought into the kingdom and +sold contrary to the former Statutes and the proclamation of November last; +all such bone lace is to be forfeited, and a penalty of £100 paid by the +offender."[983] + +This same Act only occasioned the more smuggling of lace from Flanders, for +the point made in England had never attained the beauty of Brussels, and +indeed, wherever fine lace is mentioned at this period it is always of +foreign fabric. That Charles himself was of this opinion there can be no +doubt, for in the very same year he grants to one John Eaton a license to +import such quantities of lace "made beyond the seas, as may be for the +wear of the Queen, our dear Mother the Queen, our dear brother James, Duke +of York," and the rest of the royal family. The permission is softened down +by the words, "And to the end the same may be patterns for the manufacture +of these commodities here, notwithstanding the late Statute forbidding +their importation."[984] Charles had evidently received his lessons in the +school of Mazarin. As the galleries of the cardinal were filled with +sculptures, paintings, and majolica--rich produce of Italian art, as +patterns for France, "per mostra di farne in Francia"--so the king's "pilea +nocturna," pillow-beres, cravats, were trimmed with the points of +Venice[985] and Flanders, at the rate of £600 per annum, for the sake of +improving the lace manufacture of England. + +The introduction of the flowing wig, with its long curls covering the +shoulders, gave a final blow to the falling band; {337}the ends floating +and tied in front could alone be visible. In time they diminished in size, +and the remains are still seen in the laced bands of the lawyer, when in +full dress, and the homely bordered cambric slips used by the clergy. The +laced cravat now introduced continued in fashion until about the year +1735.[986] + +It was at its height when Pepys writes in his diary: "Lord's Day, Oct. 19, +1662. Put on my new lace band, and so neat it is that I am resolved my +great expense shall be lace bands, and it will set off anything else the +more." The band was edged with the broadest lace. In the _Newes_, January +7th, 1663, we find: "Lost, a laced band, the lace a quarter of a yard deep, +and the band marked in the stock with a B." + +Mrs. Pepys--more thrifty soul--"wears her green petticoat of Florence +satin, with white and black gimp lace of her own putting on (making), which +is very pretty." + +The custom, already common in France, of ladies making their own lace, +excites the ire of the writer of _Britannia Languens_, in his "Discourse +upon Trade."[987] "The manufacture of linen,"[988] he says, "was once the +huswifery of English ladies, gentlewomen, and other women;" now "the +huswifery women of England employ themselves in making an ill sort of lace, +which serves no national or natural necessity." + +The days of Puritan simplicity were at an end. + + "Instead of homespun coifs were seen + Good pinners edged with Colberteen."[989] + +The laced cravat succeeded the falling collar. Lace handkerchiefs[990] were +the fashion, and + + "Gloves laced and trimmed as fine as Nell's."[991] + +{338}Laced aprons, which even found their way to the homes of the Anglican +clergy, and appear advertised as "Stolen from the vicarage house at +Amersham in Oxfordshire: An apron of needlework lace, the middle being +Network, another Apron laced with cut and slash lace."[992] + +The newspapers crowd with losses of lace, and rarer--finds.[993] + +They give us, however, no clue to the home manufacture. "A pasteboard box +full of laced linen, and a little portmanteau with some white and grey Bone +lace,"[994] would seem to signify a lace much made two hundred years ago, +of which we have ourselves seen specimens from Dalecarlia, a sort of +guipure, upon which the pattern is formed by the introduction of an +unbleached thread, which comes out in full relief--a fancy more curious +than pretty. + +The petticoats of the ladies of King Charles's court have received due +honour at the hands of Pepys, whose prying eyes seem to have been +everywhere. On May 21 of the same year he so complacently admired himself +in his new lace band, he writes down: "My wife and I to my Lord's lodging; +where she and I staid walking in White Hall Gardens. And in the Privy +Garden saw the finest smocks and linnen petticoats of my Lady +Castlemaine's, laced with rich lace at the bottom, that ever I saw; and it +did me good to look at them." + +Speaking of the ladies' attire of this age, Evelyn says:-- + + "Another quilted white and red, + With a broad Flanders lace below; + Four pairs of bas de soye shot through {339} + With silver; diamond buckles too, + For garters, and as rich for shoe. + Twice twelve day smocks of Holland fine, + With cambric sleeves rich Point to joyn + (For she despises Colbertine); + Twelve more for night, all Flanders lac'd, + Or else she'll think herself disgrac'd. + The same her night gown must adorn, + With two Point waistcoats for the morn; + Of pocket mouchoirs, nose to drain, + A dozen laced, a dozen plain; + Three night gowns of rich Indian stuff; + Four cushion-cloths are scarce enough + Of Point and Flanders,"[995] etc. + +It is difficult now to ascertain what description of lace was that styled +Colbertine.[996] It is constantly alluded to by the writers of the period. +Randle Holme (1688) styles it, "A kind of open lace with a square +grounding."[997] Evelyn himself, in his _Fop's Dictionary_ (1690), gives, +"Colbertine, a lace resembling net-work of the fabric of Monsieur Colbert, +superintendent of the French King's manufactures;" and the _Ladies' +Dictionary_, 1694, repeats his definition. This is more incomprehensible +still, point d'Alençon being the lace that can be specially styled of "the +fabric" of Colbert, and Colbertine appears to have been a coarse +production.[998] Swift talks of knowing + + "The difference between + Rich Flanders lace and Colberteen."[999] + +Congreve makes Lady Westport say--[1000] + + "Go hang out an old Frisonier gorget with a yard of yellow Colberteen." + +And a traveller, in 1691,[1001] speaking of Paris, writes:--"You shall see +here the finer sort of people flaunting it in tawdry gauze or Colbertine, a +parcel of coarse staring ribbons; but ten of their holyday habits shall not +amount to what a citizen's wife of London wears on her head every day." + + +{340}JAMES II. + +The reign of James II., short and troubled, brought but little change in +the fashion of the day; more prominence, however, was given to the lace +cravats, which were worn loosely round the throat, and with their ends +hanging down over the upper part of the vest. + +Charles II., in the last year of his reign, spends £20 12s. for a new +cravat to be worn "on the birthday of his dear brother,"[1002] and James +expends £29 upon one of Venice point to appear in on that of his queen. +Frequent entries of lace for the attendants of the Chapel Royal form items +in the Royal Wardrobe Accounts. + +Ruffles, night-rails, and cravats of point d'Espagne and de Venise now +figure in Gazettes,[1003] but "Flanders lace is still in high estimation," +writes somebody, in 1668, "and even fans are made of it." + +Then James II. fled, and years after we find him dying at St. Germains +in--a laced nightcap. "This cap was called a 'toquet,' and put on when the +king was in extremis, as a compliment to Louis XIV." "It was the court +etiquette for all the Royals," writes Madame, in her _Memoirs_, "to die +with a nightcap on." The toquet of King James may still be seen by the +curious, adorning a wax model of the king's head, preserved as a relic in +the Museum of Dunkirk.[1004] + +Out of mingled gratitude, we suppose, for the hospitality she had received +at the French court, and the protection of the angels, which, she writes, +"I experienced once when I {341}set fire to my lace night cornet, which was +burned to the very head without singeing a single hair"--good Queen Mary of +Modena, who shone so brightly in her days of adversity, died, _selon les +règles_, coeffed in like fashion. + +With this notice we finish the St. Germains reign of King James the Second. + + +WILLIAM III. + + "Long wigs, + Steinkirk cravats." + --Congreve. _Love for Love._ + + +In William III.'s reign, the full shirt-sleeves, with their lace ruffles, +were shown at the wrists, and the loose neckcloths had long pendent ends +terminating in lace, if they were not entirely made of that material. The +hat, too, was edged with gold lace, and for summer wear the gloves were +edged with lace. + +Women's sleeves, at first short, wide and lace-edged, showing the delicate +sleeves of the under garment, soon became tight, and were prolonged to the +wrists, where they terminated in deep and wide upturned cuffs, whence +drooped a profusion of lace lappets and ruffles. + +The hair, combed up, and with an inclination backwards from the forehead, +was surmounted by a strata of ribbon and lace, sometimes intermingled with +feathers, and a kerchief or scarf of some very light material was permitted +to hang down to the waist, or below it. + +In 1698 the English Parliament passed another Act "for rendering the laws +more effectual for preventing the importation of foreign Bone lace, Loom +lace, Needlework Point, and Cutwork,"[1005] with a penalty of 20s. per +yard, and forfeiture. This Act caused such excitement among the convents +and béguinages of Flanders that the Government, at that time under the +dominion of Spain, prohibited, by way of retaliation, the importation of +English wool. In consequence of the general distress occasioned by this +edict {342}among the woolstaplers of England, the Act prohibiting the +importation of foreign lace into England was repealed,[1006] so far as +related to the Spanish Low Countries. England was the loser by this +Custom-House war.[1007] + +Dress, after the Revolution, partook of the stately sobriety of the House +of Nassau, but lace was extensively worn. Queen Mary favoured that +wonderful erection, already spoken of in our chapter on France,[1008] the +tower or fontange, more generally called, certainly not from its +convenience, the "commode," with its piled tiers of lace and ribbon, and +the long hanging pinners, celebrated by Prior in his "Tale of the Widow and +her Cat":-- + + "He scratch'd the maid, he stole the cream, + He tore her best lac'd pinner." + +Their Flanders lace heads, with the engageantes[1009] or ruffles, and the +dress covered with lace frills and flounces--"every part of the garment in +curl"--caused a lady, says the _Spectator_, to resemble "a Friesland +hen."[1010] + +Never yet were such sums expended on lace as in the days of William and +Mary. The lace bill of the Queen, signed by Lady Derby, Mistress of the +Robes, for the year 1694, amounts to the enormous sum of £1,918.[1011] +Among the most extravagant entries we find:-- + + £. s. d. + 21 yards of lace for 12 pillow beres, at 52s. 54 12 0 + 16 yards of lace for 2 toylights (toilets), at £12 192 0 0 + 24 yards for 6 handkerchiefs, at £4 10s. 108 0 0 + 30 yards for 6 night shifts, at 62s. 93 0 0 + 6 yards for 2 combing cloths, at £14 84 0 0 + 3½ yards for a combing cloth at £17 53 2 6 {343} + 3-1/8 do. at £14 42 0 0 + An apron of lace 17 0 0 + +None of the lace furnished by Mr. Bampton, thread lace provider and +milliner to the court, for the Queen's engageantes and ruffles, however, +seems to have exceeded £5 10_s_. the yard. There is little new in this +account. The lace is entered as scalloped,[1012] ruffled, loopt: lace +purle[1013] still lingers on; catgut, too, appears for the first +time,[1014] as well as raised point[1015] and needlework.[1016] The Queen's +pinners are mentioned as Mazzarined;[1017] some fashion named in honour of +the once fair Hortense, who ended her exiled life in England. + + "What do you lack, ladies fair, Mazzarine hoods, Fontanges, + girdles?"[1018] + +King William himself, early imbued with the Dutch taste for lace, exceeded, +we may say, his wife in the extravagance of his lace bills; for though the +lace account for 1690 is noted only at £1,603, it increases annually until +the year 1695-6, when the entries amount to the astonishing sum of £2,459 +19s.[1019] Among the items charged will be found:-- + + £. s. d. + + To six point cravats 158 0 0 + To eight do. for hunting 85 0 0 + 54 yds. for 6 barbing cloths 270 0 0 + 63 yds. for 6 combing cloths 283 10 0 + 117 yards of "scissæ teniæ" (cut-work) + for trimming 12 pockethandfs 485 14 3 + 78 yds. for 24 cravats, at £8 10s. 663 0 0 + +{344}In this right royal account of expenditure we find mention of +"cockscombe laciniæ," of which the King consumes 344 yards.[1020] What this +may be we cannot say, as it is described as "green and white"; otherwise we +might have supposed it some kind of Venice point, the little pearl-edged +raised patterns of which are designated by Randle Holme as "cockscombs." +More coquet than a woman, we find an exchange effected with Henry Furness, +"Mercatori," of various laces, purchased for his handkerchiefs and razor +cloths, which, laid by during the two years of "lugubris" for his beloved +consort, the Queen--during which period he had used razor cloths with broad +hems and no lace--had become "obsolete"--quite out of fashion. To effect +this exchange the King pays the sum of £178 12s. 6d., the lace purchased +for the six new razor cloths amounting to £270. In the same page we find +him, now out of mourning, expending £499 10s. for lace to trim his +twenty-four new nightshirts, "indusiis nocturnis." + +With such royal patronage, no wonder the lace trade prospered, and that, +within ten years of William's death, Defoe should quote the point lace of +Blandford as selling at £30 the yard. + +PLATE LXXXIII. + +[Illustration: JAMES, THE OLD PRETENDER, 1688-1766, WITH HIS SISTER +PRINCESS LOUISA, 1692-1712. In 1695. By Nicolas de Largillière. National +Portrait Gallery. + +Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] + +_To face page 344._ + +{345}We have already told how the fashion of the laced Steinkirk found as +much favour in England[1021] as in France. Many people still possess, among +their family relics, long oval-shaped brooches of topaz or Bristol stones, +and wonder what they were used for. These old-fashioned articles of +jewellery were worn to fasten (when not passed through the button-hole) the +lace Steinkirk, so prevalent not only among the nobility, but worn by all +classes. If the dialogue between Sir Nicholas Dainty and Major-General +Blunt, as given in Shadwell's play, be correct, the volunteers of King +William's day were not behind the military in elegance:-- + + "SIR NICHOLAS.--I must make great haste, I shall ne'er get my Points and + Laces done up time enough. + + "MAJ. GEN. B.--What say'st, young fellow? Points and Laces for camps? + + "SIR NICH.--Yes, Points and Laces; why, I carry two laundresses on + purpose.... Would you have a gentleman go undress'd in a camp? Do you + think I would see a camp if there was no dressing? Why, I have two + campaign suits, one trimmed with Flanders lace, and the other with rich + Point. + + "MAJ. GEN. B.--Campaign suits with lace and Point!"[1022] + +In Westminster Abbey, where, as somewhat disrespectfully, say the Brothers +Popplewell,[1023] the images of William and Mary + + "Stand upright in a press, with their bodies made of wax, + A globe and a wand in either hand and their robes upon their backs"-- + +the lace tucker and double sleeves of Queen Mary are of the finest raised +Venice point, resembling Fig. 29; King William likewise wears a rich lace +cravat and ruffles.[1024] + +In a memorandum (carta d'informazione) given to the Venetian ambassadors +about to proceed to England, 1696, they are to be provided with very +handsome collars of the finest Venetian point, which, it is added, is also +the best present to make.[1025] + +Before concluding the subject of the lace-bearing heroes, we may as well +state here that the English soldiers rivalled the cavaliers of France in +the richness of their points till the extinction of hair-powder (the +wearing of which in the army consumes, says some indignant writer, flour +enough to feed 600,000 persons per annum), when the lace cravat was +replaced by the stiff and cumbersome stock. Speaking of {346}these military +dandies, writes the _World_: "Nor can I behold the lace and the waste of +finery in their clothing but in the same light as the silver plates and +ornaments on a coffin; indeed, I am apt to impute their going to battle so +trimmed and adorned to the same reason a once fine lady painted her cheeks +just before she expired, that she might not look frightful when she was +dead." + + "To war the troops advance, + Adorned and trim like females for the dance. + Down sinks Lothario, sent by one dire blow, + A well-dress'd hero to the shades below." + +As the justice's daughter says to her mamma, in Sheridan's _St. Patrick's +Day_:-- + + "Dear; to think how the sweet fellows sleep on the ground, and fight in + silk stockings and lace ruffles." + +Lace had now become an article worthy the attention of the light-fingered +gentry. The jewels worn by our great-grandmothers of the eighteenth +century, though mounted in the most exquisite taste, were for the most part +false--Bristol or Alençon "diamonds," paste, or "Strass." Lace, on the +other hand, was a sure commodity and easily disposed of. At the robbery of +Lady Anderson's house in Red Lion Square during a fire, in 1700, the family +of George Heneage, Esq., on a visit, are recorded to have lost--"A head +with fine loopt lace, of very great value; a Flanders lace hood; a pair of +double ruffles and tuckers; two laced aprons, one point, the other Flanders +lace; and a large black lace scarf embroidered in gold." + +Again, at an opera row some years later, the number of caps, ruffles, and +heads enumerated as stolen by the pickpockets is quite fabulous. So expert +had they become, that when first the ladies took to wearing powdered wigs, +they dexterously cut open the leather backs of the hack coaches and carried +off wig, head and all, before the rifled occupant had the slightest idea of +their attack.[1026] To remedy the evil, the police request all ladies for +the future to sit with their backs to the horses.[1027] + + +{347}QUEEN ANNE. + + "PARLEY.--Oh, Sir, there's the prettiest fashion lately come over! so + airy, so French, and all that! The Pinners are double ruffled with twelve + plaits of a side, and open all from the face; the hair is frizzled up all + round head, and stands as stiff as a bodkin. Then the Favourites hang + loose upon the temple with a languishing lock in the middle. Then the + Caule is extremely wide, and over all is a Cornet rais'd very high and + all the Lappets behind."--Farquhar. _Sir Harry Wildair._ + + +Queen Anne, though less extravagant than her sister, was scarcely more +patriotic. The point purchased for her coronation,[1028] though it cost but +£64 13s. 9d., was of Flanders growth. The bill is made out to the royal +laceman of King William's day, now Sir Henry Furnesse, knight and merchant. + +The Queen, too, in her gratitude, conferred a pension of £100 upon one Mrs. +Abrahat, the royal clear-starcher; "because," writes the Duchess of +Marlborough, "she had washed the Queen's heads for twenty pounds a year +when she was princess." + +In 1706 Anne again repeals the Acts which prohibit Flanders lace, with the +clear understanding that nothing be construed into allowing the importation +of lace made in "the dominions of the French King";[1029] an edict in +itself sufficient to bring the points of France into the highest +fashion.[1030] + +"France," writes an essayist, "is the wardrobe of the world;" nay, "the +English have so great an esteem for the workmanship of the French refugees, +that hardly a thing vends without a Gallic name."[1031] + +To the refugees from Alençon and elsewhere, expelled by the cruel edict of +Louis XIV., we owe the visible improvement of our laces in the eighteenth +century. + +Up to the present time we have had mention only of {348}"Flanders lace" in +general. In the reign of Queen Anne the points of "Macklin" and Brussels +are first noted down in the Royal Wardrobe Accounts. In 1710 her Majesty +pays for 26 yards of fine edged Brussels lace £151.[1032] "Mais, l'appétit +vient en mangeant." The bill of Margareta Jolly, for the year 1712, for the +furnishing of Mechlin and Brussels lace alone, amounts to the somewhat +extravagant sum of £1,418 14_s_. Taking the average price of the "Lace +chanter on Ludgate Hill," articles of daily use were costly enough. "One +Brussels head is valued at £40; a grounded Brussels head, £30; one looped +Brussels, £30." These objects, high as the price may seem, lasted a woman's +life. People in the last century did not care for variety, they contented +themselves with a few good articles; hence among the objects given in 1719, +as necessary to a lady of fashion, we merely find:-- + + £ s. d. + + A French point or Flanders head and ruffles 80 0 0 + A ditto handkerchief 10 0 0 + A black French laced hood 5 5 0 + +When the Princess Mary, daughter of George II., married, she had but four +fine laced Brussels heads, two loopt and two grounded, two extremely fine +point ones, with ruffles and lappets, six French caps and ruffles.[1033] + +Two point lace cravats were considered as a full supply for any gentleman. +Even young extravagant Lord Bedford, who, at eighteen years of age, found +he could not spend less than £6,000 a year at Rome, when on the grand tour, +only charges his mother, Rachel Lady Russell, with that number.[1034] + +The high commode,[1035] with its lace rising tier upon tier, which made the +wits about town declare the ladies "carried Bow steeple upon their heads," +of a sudden collapsed in Queen Anne's reign. It had shot up to a most +extravagant height, "insomuch that the female part of our species were +{349}much taller than the men. We appeared," says the _Spectator_,[1036] +"as grasshoppers before them."[1037] + +In 1711 Anne forbade the entry of gold and silver lace,[1038] of which the +consumption had become most preposterous,[1039] under pain of forfeiture +and the fine of £100. Ladies wore even cherry-coloured stays trimmed with +the forbidden fabric.[1040] The point of Spain had the preference over +thread lace for state garments, heads and ruffles excepted; and as late as +1763, when the Dowager Lady Effingham was robbed of her coronation robes, +among the wonderful finery detailed there is no mention of thread lace. + +The commerce of Flanders, notwithstanding the French taste, seemed now on a +comfortable footing. "The Flander-kins," writes the _British Merchant_ in +1713, "are gone off from wool, which we have got, to lace and linen.... We +have learned better, I hope, by our unsuccessful attempt to prohibit the +Flanders laces, which made the Flemings retaliate upon us, and lessened our +exportation of woollen manufactures by several £100,000 per annum."[1041] + +Men looked upon lace as a necessary article to their wives' equipment. +Addison declares that when the China mania first came in, women exchanged +their Flanders point for punch-bowls and mandarins, thus picking their +husbands' pockets, who is often purchasing a huge china vase when he +fancies that he is buying a fine head for his wife.[1042] Indeed, they +could scarcely grumble, as a good wig cost from forty to fifty guineas--to +say nothing of their own lace ties and {350}ruffles. Only an old antiquary +like Sir Thomas Clayton could note down in his accounts:--"Lace and +fal-lalls,[1043] and a large looking-glass to see her old ugly face +in--frivolous expenses to please my proud lady." + + + + +{351}CHAPTER XXVI. + +GEORGE I. AND II. + +---- + +GEORGE I. + + "Wisdom with periwigs, with cassocks grace, + Courage with swords, gentility with lace."--_Connoisseur._ + +The accession of the House of Hanover brought but little change either in +the fashions or the fabrics. In 1717 the King published an edict regarding +the hawking of lace, but the world was too much taken up with the Old +Pretender and the court of St. Germains; the King, too, was often absent, +preferring greatly his German dominions. + +We now hear a great deal of lace ruffles; they were worn long and falling. +Lord Bolingbroke, who enraged Queen Anne by his untidy dress--"she +supposed, forsooth, he would some day come to court in his nightcap"--is +described as having his cravat of point lace, and his hands hidden by +exaggerated ruffles of the same material. In good old Jacobite times, these +weeping ruffles served as well to conceal notes--"poulets"--passed from one +wary politician to another, as they did the French sharpers to juggle and +cheat at cards. + +Lace continued the mania of the day. "Since your fantastical geers came in +with wires, ribbons, and laces, and your furbelows with three hundred yards +in a gown and petticoat, there has not been a good housewife in the +nation,"[1044] writes an indignant dramatist. The lover was made to bribe +the Abigail of his mistress with a piece of Flanders lace[1045]--an +offering not to be resisted. Lace appeared {352}at baptisms,[1046] at +marriages, as well as at burials, of which more hereafter--even at the Old +Bailey, where one Miss Margaret Caroline Rudd, a beauty of the day, tried +for forgery, quite moved her jurors to tears, and nigh gained her acquittal +by the taste of her elegantly-laced stomacher, the lace robings of her +dress, and single lace flounce, her long pendulous ruffles, hanging from +the elbow, heard, fluttering in her agitation, by the court; but, in spite +of these allurements, Margaret Caroline Rudd was hanged. + +Every woman, writes Swift,[1047] is + + "In choosing lace a critic nice, + Knows to a groat the lowest price." + +Together, they + + "Of caps and ruffles hold the grave debate, + As of their lives they would decide the fate." + +Again, he says:-- + +"And when you are among yourselves, how naturally, after the first +compliments, do you entertain yourselves with the price and choice of lace, +apply your hands to each other's lappets and ruffles, as if the whole +business of your life and the public concern depended on the cut of your +petticoats."[1048] + +Even wise Mrs. Elizabeth Montague, who wrote epistles about the ancients, +and instead of going to a ball, sat at home and read Sophocles, exclaims to +her sister--"Surely your heroic spirit will prefer a beau's hand in +Brussels lace to a stubborn Scævola without an arm." + +PLATE LXXXIV. + +[Illustration: JOHN LAW, THE PARIS BANKER, Author of the Mississippi +Scheme, 1671-1729.--In cravat of Point de France, between 1708-20. Painted +by Belle. National Portrait Gallery. + +Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] + +_To face page 352._ + +{353}In the middle of the nineteenth century it was the fashion that no +young lady should wear lace previous to her marriage. In the reign of +George II. etiquette was different, for we find the Duchess of Portland +presenting Mrs. Montague, then a girl, with a lace head and ruffles. + +Wrathfully do the satirists of the day rail against the expense of + + "The powder, patches, and the pins, + The ribbon, jewels, and the rings, + The lace, the paint, and warlike things + That make up all their magazines,"[1049] + +and the consequent distress of the lace merchants, to whom ladies are +indebted for thousands. After a drawing-room, in which the fair population +appeared in "borrowed," _i.e._, unpaid lace,[1050] one of the chief lacemen +became well-nigh bankrupt. Duns besieged the houses of the great:-- + + "By mercers, lacemen, mantua-makers press'd; + But most for ready cash, for play distress'd, + Where can she turn?"[1051] + +The _Connoisseur_, describing the reckless extravagance of one of these +ladies, writes:--"The lady played till all her ready money was gone, staked +her cap and lost it, afterwards her handkerchief. He then staked both cap +and handkerchief against her tucker, which, to his pique, she gained." When +enumerating the various causes of suicide, he proposes "that an annual bill +or report should be made out, giving the different causes which have led to +the act." Among others, in his proposed "Bill of Suicide," he gives French +claret, French lace, French cooks, etc. + +The men, though scarcely coming up to the standard of Sir Courtly +Nice,[1052] who has all his bands and linen made in Holland and washed at +Haarlem, were just as extravagant as the ladies. + + +{354}GEORGE II. + + "'How well this ribband's glass becomes your face,' + She cries in rapture; 'then so sweet a lace! + How charmingly you look!'" + --Lady M. W. Montagu. _Town Eclogues._ + + +For court and state occasions Brussels lace still held its sway. + +In the reign of George II. we read how, at the drawing-room of 1735, fine +escalloped Brussels laced heads, triple ditto laced ruffles,[1053] lappets +hooked up with diamond solitaires, found favour. At the next the ladies +wore heads dressed English, _i.e._, bow of fine Brussels lace of exceeding +rich patterns, with the same amount of laced ruffles and lappets. Gold +flounces were also worn. + +Speaking of the passion for Brussels lace, Postlethwait indignantly +observes:--"'Tis but a few years since England expended upon foreign lace +and linen not less than two millions yearly. As lace in particular is the +manufacture of nuns, our British ladies may as well endow monasteries as +wear Flanders lace, for these Popish nuns are maintained by Protestant +contributions."[1054] + +Patriotism, it would appear, did come into vogue in the year 1736, when at +the marriage of Frederick, Prince of Wales, the bride is described as +wearing a night-dress of superb lace, the bridegroom a cap of similar +material. All the laces worn by the court on this occasion are announced to +have been of English manufacture, with the exception of that of the Duke of +Marlborough, who appeared in point d'Espagne. The bride, however, does not +profit by this high example, for shortly after we read, in the _Memoirs of +Madame Palatine_, of the secretary of Sir Luke Schaub being drugged at +Paris by an impostor, and robbed of some money sent to defray the purchase +of some French lace ruffles for the Princess of Wales. + +{355}It was of native-made laces, we may infer, Mrs. Delany writes in the +same year:--"Thanks for your apron. Brussels nor Mechlin ever produced +anything prettier." + +It appears somewhat strange that patriotism, as regards native +manufactures, should have received an impulse during the reign of that most +uninteresting though gallant little monarch, the second George of +Brunswick.[1055] But patriotism has its evils, for, writes an essayist, +"some ladies now squander away all their money in fine laces, because it +sets a great many poor people to work."[1056] + +Ten years previous to the death of King George II. was founded, with a view +to correct the prevalent taste for foreign manufactures,[1057] the Society +of Anti-Gallicans, who held their quarterly meetings, and distributed +prizes for bone, point lace, and other articles of English +manufacture.[1058] + +This society, which continued in great activity for many years, proved most +beneficial to the lace-making trade. It excited also a spirit of emulation +among gentlewomen of the middle class, who were glad in the course of the +year to add to a small income by making the finer kinds of needle-point, +which, on account of their elaborate workmanship, could be produced only in +foreign convents or by {356}persons whose maintenance did not entirely +depend upon the work of their hands. + +Towards the year 1756 certain changes in the fashion of the day now again +mark the period, for-- + + "Dress still varying, most to form confined, + Shifts like the sands, the sport of every wind." + +"Long lappets, the horse-shoe cap, the Brussels head, and the prudish mob +pinned under the chin, have all had their day," says the _Connoisseur_ in +1754. Now we have first mention of lace cardinals; trollopies or +slammerkins[1059] come in at the same period, with treble ruffles to the +cuffs; writers talk, too, of a "gentle dame in blonde lace," blonde being +as yet a newly-introduced manufacture. + +Though history may only be all false,[1060] as Sir Robert Walpole said to +that "cynic in lace ruffles," his son Horace, yet the newspapers are to be +depended upon for the fashion of the day, or, as Lady Mary would say, "for +what new whim adorns the ruffle."[1061] + +The lace apron,[1062] worn since the days of Queen Elizabeth, continued to +hold its own till the end of the eighteenth century, though some considered +it an appendage scarcely consistent with the dignity of polite society. The +anecdote of Beau Nash, who held these articles in the strongest aversion, +has been often related. "He absolutely excluded," says his biographer, "all +who ventured to appear at the Assembly Room at Bath so attired. I have +known him at a ball night strip the Duchess of Queensberry, and throw her +apron on one of the hinder benches among the ladies' women, observing that +none but Abigails appeared in white aprons; though that apron was of the +costliest point, and cost two hundred guineas."[1063] + +{357}George II. did his best to promote the fabrics of his country, but at +this period smuggling increased with fearful rapidity. It was a war to the +knife between the revenue officer and society at large: all classes +combined, town ladies of high degree with waiting-maids and the common +sailor, to avoid the obnoxious duties and cheat the Government. To this +subject we devote the following chapter. + + + + +{358}CHAPTER XXVII. + +SMUGGLING. + + "May that mistaken taste be starv'd to reason, + That does not think French fashions--English treason. + Souse their cook's talent, and cut short their tailors; + Wear your own lace; eat beef like Vernon's sailors." + --Aaron Hill. 1754. + + +We have had occasional mention of this kindly-looked-upon offence, in the +carrying out of which many a reckless seaman paid the penalty of his life +in the latter part of the eighteenth century. + +From 1700 downwards, though the edicts prohibiting the entry of Flanders +lace were repealed, the points of France, Spain and Venice, with other +fabrics of note, were still excluded from our ports. "England," writes +Anderson,[1064] "brings home in a smuggling way from France much fine lace +and other prohibited fopperies." Prohibition went for nothing; foreign lace +ladies would have, and if they could not smuggle it themselves, the +smuggler brought it to them. It was not till 1751 that the Customs appear +to have used undue severity as regards the entries, prying into people's +houses, and exercising a surveillance of so strict a nature as to render +the chance to evade their watchfulness a very madness on the part of all +degrees. In short, there was not a female within ten miles of a seaport, +writes an essayist, that was in possession of a Mechlin lace cap or pinner +but they examined her title to it. + +Lord Chesterfield, whose opinion that "dress is a very silly thing, but it +is much more silly not to be dressed according to your station," was more +than acted up to, referring to the strictness of the Customs, writes to his +son {359}in 1751, when coming over on a short visit: "Bring only two or +three of your laced shirts, and the rest plain ones." + +The revenue officers made frequent visits to the tailors' shops, and +confiscated whatever articles they found of foreign manufacture. + +On January 19th, 1752, a considerable quantity of foreign lace, gold and +silver, seized at a tailor's, who paid the penalty of £100, was publicly +burnt.[1065] + +George III., who really from his coming to the throne endeavoured to +protect English manufactures, ordered, in 1764, all the stuffs and laces +worn at the marriage of his sister, the Princess Augusta, to the Duke of +Brunswick, to be of English manufacture. To this decree the nobility paid +little attention. Three days previous to the marriage a descent was made by +the Customs on the court milliner of the day, and nearly the whole of the +clothes, silver, gold stuffs and lace, carried off, to the dismay of the +modiste, as well as of the ladies deprived of their finery. The disgusted +French milliner retired with a fortune of £11,000 to Versailles, where she +purchased a villa, which, in base ingratitude to the English court, she +called "La Folie des Dames Anglaises." In May of the same year three +wedding garments, together with a large seizure of French lace, weighing +nearly 100 lbs., were burnt at Mr. Coxe's refinery, conformably to the Act +of Parliament. The following birthday, warned by the foregoing mischances, +the nobility appeared in clothes and laces entirely of British manufacture. + +Every paper tells how lace and ruffles of great value, sold on the previous +day, had been seized in a hackney coach, between St. Paul's and Covent +Garden; how a lady of rank was stopped in her chair and relieved of French +lace to a large amount; or how a poor woman, carelessly picking a quartern +loaf as she walked along, was arrested, and the loaf found to contain £200 +worth of lace. Even ladies when walking had their black lace mittens cut +off their hands, the officers supposing them to be of French manufacture; +and lastly, a Turk's turban, of most Mameluke dimensions, was found, +containing a stuffing of £90 worth of lace. Books, {360}bottles, babies, +false-bottomed boxes, umbrellas, daily poured out their treasures to the +lynx-eyed officers. + +In May, 1765, the lace-makers joined the procession of the silk-workers of +Spitalfields to Westminster, bearing flags and banners, to which were +attached long floating pieces of French lace, demanding of the Lords +redress, and the total exclusion of foreign goods. On receiving an answer +that it was too late, they must wait till next Session, the assemblage +declared that they would not be put off by promises; they broke the Duke of +Bedford's palings on their way home, and threatened to burn the premises of +Mr. Carr, an obnoxious draper. At the next levée they once more assembled +before St. James's, but, finding the dresses of the nobility to be all of +right English stuff, retired satisfied, without further clamour. + +The papers of the year 1764 teem with accounts of seizures made by the +Customs. Among the confiscated effects of a person of the highest quality +are enumerated: "16 black à-la-mode cloaks, trimmed with lace; 44 French +lace caps; 11 black laced handkerchiefs; 6 lace hats; 6 ditto aprons; 10 +pairs of ruffles; 6 pairs of ladies' blonde ditto, and 25 gentlemen's." +Eleven yards of edging and 6 pairs of ruffles are extracted from the pocket +of the footman. Everybody smuggled. A gentleman attached to the Spanish +Embassy is unloaded of 36 dozen shirts, with fine Dresden ruffles and +jabots, and endless lace, in pieces, for ladies' wear. These articles had +escaped the vigilance of the officers at Dover, but were seized on his +arrival by the coach at Southwark. Though Prime Ministers in those days +accepted bribes, the Custom-house officers seem to have done their +duty.[1066] + +When the body of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire was brought over from +France, where he died, the officers, to the anger of his servants, not +content with opening and searching the coffin, poked the corpse with a +stick to ascertain if it was a real body; but the trick of smuggling in +coffins was too {361}old to be attempted. Forty years before, when a +deceased clergyman was conveyed from the Low Countries for interment, the +body of the corpse was found to have disappeared, and to have been replaced +by Flanders lace of immense value--the head and hands and feet alone +remaining. This discovery did not, however, prevent the High Sheriff of +Westminster from running--and that successfully--£6,000 worth of French +lace in the coffin of Bishop Atterbury,[1067] when his body was brought +over from Calais for interment. + +Towards the close of the French war, in the nineteenth century, smuggling +of lace again became more rife than ever. It was in vain the authorities +stopped the travelling carriages on their road from seaport towns to +London, rifled the baggage of the unfortunate passengers by the mail at +Rochester and Canterbury; they were generally outwitted, though spies in +the pay of the Customs were ever on the watch. + +Mrs. Palliser had in her possession a Brussels veil of great beauty, which +narrowly escaped seizure. It belonged to a lady who was in the habit of +accompanying her husband, for many years member for one of the Cinque +Ports. The day after the election she was about to leave for London, +somewhat nervous as to the fate of a Brussels veil she had purchased of a +smuggler for a hundred guineas; when, at a dinner-party, it was announced +that Lady Ellenborough, wife of the Lord Chief Justice, had been stopped +near Dover, and a large quantity of valuable lace seized concealed in the +lining of her carriage. Dismayed at the news, the lady imparted her trouble +to a gentleman at her side, who immediately offered to take charge of the +lace and convey it to London, remarking that "no one would suspect him, as +he was a bachelor." Turning round suddenly, she observed one of the hired +waiters to smile, and at once settling him to be a spy, she loudly accepted +the offer; but that night, before going to bed, secretly caused the veil to +be sewn up in the waistcoat of the newly-elected M.P., in such a manner +that it filled the hollow of his back. Next morning they started, and +reached London in safety, while her friend, who remained two days later, +was stopped, and underwent {362}a rigorous but unsuccessful examination +from the Customhouse officers. + +The free trade principles of the nineteenth century put a more effectual +stop to smuggling than all the activity of revenue officers, spies, and +informers, or even laws framed for the punishment of the offenders. + + + + +{363}CHAPTER XXVIII. + +GEORGE III. + + "In clothes, cheap handsomeness doth bear the bell, + Wisdome's a trimmer thing than shop e'er gave. + Say not then, This with that lace will do well; + But, This with my discretion will be brave. + Much curiousnesse is a perpetual wooing, + Nothing with labour, fully long a doing." + --Herbert, "The Church Porch." + + +In 1760 commences the reign of George III. The King was patriotic, and did +his best to encourage the fabrics of his country. + +From the year 1761 various Acts were passed for the benefit of the +lace-makers: the last, that of 1806, "increases the duties on foreign +laces."[1068] + +Queen Charlotte, on her first landing in England, wore, in compliment to +the subjects of her royal consort, a fly cap richly trimmed, with lappets +of British lace, and a dress of similar manufacture. + +The Englishman, however, regardless of the Anti-Gallicans, preferred his +"Macklin" and his Brussels to all the finest productions of Devonshire or +Newport-Pagnel. + +Ruffles,[1069] according to the fashion of Tavistock Street and St. +James's, in May, 1773, still continued long, dipped in the sauce alike by +clown and cavalier.[1070] + + "The beau, + A critic styled in point of dress, + Harangues on fashion, point, and lace." + +{364}A man was known by his "points"; he collected lace, as, in these more +athletic days, a gentleman prides himself on his pointers or his horses. We +read in the journals of the time how, on the day after Lord George Gordon's +riots, a report ran through London that the Earl of Effingham, having +joined the rioters, had been mortally wounded, and his body thrown into the +Thames. He had been recognised, folks declared, by his point lace +ruffles.[1071] + +Mr. Damer, less known than his wife, the talented sculptor and friend of +Horace Walpole, appeared three times a day in a new suit, and at his +death[1072] left a wardrobe which sold for £15,000.[1073] Well might it +have been said of him-- + + "We sacrifice to dress, till household joys + And comforts cease. Dress drains our cellars dry, + And keeps our larder bare; puts out our fires, + And introduces hunger, frost, and woe, + Where peace and hospitality might reign."[1074] + +There was "no difference between the nobleman and city 'prentice, except +that the latter was sometimes the greater beau," writes the _Female +Spectator_.[1075] + + "His hands must be covered with fine Brussels lace."[1076] + +Painters of the eighteenth century loved to adorn their portraits with the +finest fabrics of Venice and Flanders; modern artists consider such +decorations as far too much trouble. "Over the chimney-piece," writes one +of the essayists, describing a citizen's country box, "was my friend's +portrait, which was drawn bolt upright in a full-bottomed periwig, a laced +cravat, with the fringed ends appearing through the button-hole (Steinkirk +fashion). Indeed, one would almost wonder how and where people managed to +afford so rich a selection of laces in their days, did it not call to mind +the demand of the Vicaress of Wakefield 'to have as many pearls and +diamonds put into her picture as could be given for the money.'" + +{365}Ruffles were equally worn by the ladies:--[1077] + + "Frizzle your elbows with ruffles sixteen; + Furl off your lawn apron with flounces in rows."[1078] + +Indeed, if we may judge by the intellectual conversation overheard and +accurately noted down by Miss Burney,[1079] at Miss Monckton's (Lady Cork) +party, court ruffles were inconvenient to wear:-- + +"'You can't think how I am encumbered with these nasty ruffles,' said Mrs. +Hampden. + +"'And I dined in them,' says the other. 'Only think!' + +"'Oh!' answered Mrs. Hampden, 'it really puts me out of spirits.'" + +Both ladies were dressed for a party at Cumberland House, and ill at ease +in the costume prescribed by etiquette. + +About 1770 the sleeves of the ladies' dresses were tight on the upper arm, +where they suddenly became very large, and, drooping at the elbow, they +terminated in rich fringes of lace ruffles. A few years later the sleeves +expanded from the shoulders till they became a succession of constantly +enlarging ruffles and lappets, and again, before 1780, they became tight +throughout, with small cuffs and no lace at the elbows, when they were worn +with long gloves. + +Our history of English lace is now drawing to a close; but, before quitting +the subject, we must, however, make some allusion to the custom prevalent +here, as in all countries, of using lace as a decoration to grave-clothes. +In the chapter devoted to Greece, we have mentioned how much lace is still +taken from the tombs of the Ionian Islands, washed, mended, or, more often, +as a proof of its authenticity, sold in a most disgusting state to the +purchaser. The custom was prevalent at Malta, as the lines of Beaumont and +Fletcher testify:-- + + "In her best habit, as the custom is, + You know, in Malta, with all ceremonies, + She's buried in the family monument, + I' the temple of St. John."[1080] + +{366}At Palermo you may see the mummies thus adorned in the celebrated +catacombs of the Capuchin convent.[1081] + +In Denmark,[1082] Sweden, and the north of Europe[1083] the custom was +general. The mass of lace in the tomb of the once fair Aurora Königsmarck, +at Quedlenburg, would in itself be a fortune. She sleeps clad in the +richest point d'Angleterre, Malines, and guipure. Setting aside the jewels +which still glitter around her parchment form, no daughter of Pharaoh was +ever so richly swathed.[1084] + +In Spain it is related as the privilege of a grandee: all people of a lower +rank are interred in the habit of some religious order.[1085] + +Taking the grave-clothes of St. Cuthbert as an example, we believe the same +custom to have prevailed in England from the earliest times.[1086] + +{367}Mrs. Oldfield, the celebrated actress, who died in 1730, caused +herself to be thus interred. The lines of Pope have long since immortalised +the story:-- + + "Odious! in woollen! 'twould a saint provoke! + (Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke.) + No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace + Wrap my cold limbs, and shade my lifeless face; + One would not, sure, be frightful when one's dead-- + And--Betty--give this cheek a little red." + +"She was laid in her coffin," says her maid, "in a very fine Brussels lace +head, a Holland shift with a tucker of double ruffles, and a pair of new +kid gloves." Previous to her interment in Westminster Abbey she lay in +state in the Jerusalem Chamber.[1087] For Mrs. Oldfield in her lifetime was +a great judge of lace, and treasured a statuette of the Earl of Stratford, +finely carved in ivory by Grinling Gibbons, more, it is supposed, for the +beauty of its lace Vandyke collar[1088] than any other sentiment. + +In 1763 another instance is recorded in the _London Magazine_ of a young +lady buried in her wedding clothes, point lace tucker, handkerchief, +ruffles and apron; also a fine point lappet head. From this period we +happily hear no more of such extravagances. + +Passing from interments and shrouds to more lively matters, we must quote +the opinion of that Colossus of the eighteenth century, Dr. Johnson, who +was too apt to talk on matters of taste and art, of which he was no +competent judge. "A Brussels trimming," he declaims to Mrs. Piozzi, "is +like bread sauce; it takes away the glow of colour from the gown, and gives +you nothing instead of it: but sauce was invented to heighten the flavour +of our food, and trimming is an ornament to the manteau or it is +nothing."[1089] A man whose culinary ideas did not soar higher than bread +sauce could scarcely pronounce on the relative effect and beauty of point +lace. + +If England had leant towards the products of France, in {368}1788, an +Anglomania ran riot at Paris. Ladies wore a cap of mixed lace, English and +French, which they styled the "Union of France and England." On the +appearance of the French Revolution, the classic style of dress--its India +muslins and transparent gauzes--caused the ancient points to fall into +neglect. From this time dates the decline of the lace fabric throughout +Europe. + +Point still appeared at court and on state occasions, such as on the +marriage of the Princess Caroline of Wales, 1795, but as an article of +daily use it gradually disappeared from the wardrobes of all classes. A +scrupulous feeling also arose in ladies' minds as to the propriety of +wearing articles of so costly a nature, forgetting how many thousands of +women gained a livelihood by its manufacture. Mrs. Hannah More, among the +first, in her _Coelebs in Search of a Wife_, alludes to the frivolity of +the taste, when the little child exclaiming "at the beautiful lace with +which the frock of another was trimmed, and which she was sure her mamma +had given her for being good," remarks, "A profitable and, doubtless, +lasting and inseparable association was thus formed in the child's mind +between lace and goodness." + +Whether in consequence of the French Revolution, or from the caprice of +fashion, "real" lace--worse off than the passements and points of 1634, +when in revolt--now underwent the most degrading vicissitudes. Indeed, so +thoroughly was the taste for lace at this epoch gone by, that in many +families collections of great value were, at the death of their respective +owners, handed over as rubbish to the waiting maid.[1090] Many ladies +recollect in their youth to have tricked out their dolls in the finest +Alençon point, which would now sell at a price far beyond their purses. +Among the few who, in England, unseduced by frippery blonde, never +neglected to preserve their collections entire, was the Duchess of +{369}Gloucester, whose lace was esteemed among the most magnificent in +Europe. + +When the taste of the age again turned towards the rich fabrics of the +preceding centuries, much lace, both black and white, was found in the +country farm-houses, preserved as remembrances of deceased patrons by old +family dependants. Sometimes the hoard had been forgotten, and was again +routed out from old wardrobes and chests, where it had lain unheeded for +years. Much was recovered from theatrical wardrobes and the masquerade +shops, and the Church, no longer in its temporal glory, both in Italy, +Spain and Germany, gladly parted with what, to them, was of small value +compared with the high price given for it by amateurs. In Italy perhaps the +finest fabrics of Milan, Genoa, and Venice had fared best, from the custom +which prevailed of sewing up family lace in rolls of linen to ensure its +preservation. + +After years of neglect lace became a "mania." In England the literary +ladies were the first to take it up. Sydney Lady Morgan and Lady Stepney +quarrelled weekly on the respective value and richness of their points. The +former at one time commenced a history of the lace fabric, though what was +the ultimate fate of the MS. the author is unable to state. The Countess of +Blessington, at her death, left several chests filled with the finest +antique lace of all descriptions. + +The "dames du grand monde," both in England and France, now began to wear +lace. But, strange as it may seem, never at any period did they appear to +so little advantage as during the counter-revolution of the lace period. +Lace was the fashion, and wear it somehow they would, though that somehow +often gave them an appearance, as the French say, _du dernier ridicule_, +simply from an ignorance displayed in the manner of arranging it. That lace +was old seemed sufficient to satisfy all parties. They covered their +dresses with odds and ends of all fabrics, without attention either to date +or texture. One English lady appeared at a ball given by the French Embassy +at Rome, boasting that she wore on the tablier of her dress every +description of lace, from point coupé of the fifteenth to Alençon of the +eighteenth century. The Count of Syracuse was accustomed to say: "The +English ladies buy a scrap {370}of lace as a souvenir of every town they +pass through, till they reach Naples, then sew it on their dresses, and +make one grande toilette of the whole to honour our first ball at the +Academia Nobile." + +The taste for lace has again become universal, and the quality now produced +renders it within the reach of all classes of society; and though by some +the taste may be condemned, it gives employment to thousands and ten +thousands of women, who find it more profitable and better adapted to their +strength than the field labour which forms the occupation of the women in +agricultural districts. To these last, in a general point of view, the +lace-maker of our southern counties, who works at home in her own cottage, +is superior, both in education, refinement, and morality:-- + + "Here the needle plies its busy task; + The pattern grows, the well-depicted flower, + Wrought patiently into the snowy lawn, + Unfolds its bosom; buds, and leaves, and sprigs, + And curling tendrils, gracefully dispos'd, + Follow the nimble fingers of the fair-- + A wreath that cannot fade, of flowers that blow + With most success when all besides decay."[1091] + + + + +{371}CHAPTER XXIX. + +THE LACE MANUFACTURERS OF ENGLAND. + + "Yon cottager, who weaves at her own door, + Pillow and bobbins all her little store; + Content though mean, and cheerful if not gay, + Shuffling her threads about the livelong day: + Just earns a scanty pittance, and at night + Lies down secure, her heart and pocket light."--Cowper. + + +The bone lace manufactures of England in the sixteenth and seventeenth +centuries appear to have extended over a much wider area than they occupy +in the present day. From Cambridge to the adjacent counties of Northampton +and Hertfordshire, by Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, and Oxfordshire, the +trade spread over the southern counties[1092] of Wiltshire, +Somersetshire,[1093] Hampshire, and Dorset, to the more secluded valleys of +Devon--the county which still sustains the ancient reputation of "English +point"--terminating at Launceston, on the Cornish coast. + +Various offsets from these fabrics were established in Wales.[1094] +Ripon,[1095] an isolated manufactory, represented the {372}lace industry of +York; while the dependent islands of Man,[1096] Wight[1097] and +Jersey,[1098] may be supposed to have derived their learning from the +smugglers who frequented their coast, rather than from the teaching of the +Protestant refugees[1099] who sought an asylum on the shores of Britain. + +Many of these fabrics now belong to the past, consigned to oblivion even in +the very counties where they once flourished. In describing, therefore, the +lace manufactures of the United Kingdom, we shall confine ourselves to +those which still remain, alluding only slightly to such as were {373}once +of note, and of which the existence is confirmed by the testimony of +contemporary writers. + +The "women of the mystery of thread-working" would appear to have made lace +in London,[1100] and of their complaints and grievances our public records +bear goodly evidence. Of the products of their needle we know little or +nothing. + +Various Flemings and Burgundians established themselves in the City; and +though the emigrants, for the most part, betook themselves to the adjoining +counties, the craft, till the end of the eighteenth century, may be said to +have held fair commerce in the capital. + +[Illustration: Fig. 132. + +RIPON.] + +The London fabric can scarcely be looked upon as a staple trade in itself, +mixed up as it was with lace-cleaning and lace-washing--an occupation first +established by the ejected nuns.[1101] Much point, too, was made by poor +gentlewomen, as the records of the Anti-Gallican Society testify. "A +strange infatuation," says a writer of the eighteenth century, "prevailed +in the capital for many years among the class called demi-fashionables of +sending their daughters to convents in France for education, if that could +be so termed which amounted to a learning to work in lace. The Revolution, +however, put {374}an end to this practice." It is owing to this French +education that the fine needle points were so extensively made in England; +though this occupation, however, did not seem to belong to any one county +in particular; for the reader who runs his eye over the proceedings of the +Anti-Gallican Society will find prizes to have been awarded to gentlewomen +from all parts--from the town of Leominster in Herefordshire to Broughton +in Leicestershire, or Stourton in Gloucester.[1102] Needle point, in +contradistinction to bone lace, was an occupation confined to no special +locality. + +In 1764 the attention of the nobility seems to have been first directed +towards the employment of the indigent poor, and, indeed, the better +classes in the metropolis, in the making of bone lace and point;[1103] and +in 1775, sanctioned by the patronage of Queen Charlotte, the Princesses, +the Princess Amelia, and various members of the aristocracy, an institution +was formed in Marylebone Lane, and also in James Street, Westminster, "for +employing the female infants of the poor in the blond and black silk +lace-making and thread laces." More than 300 girls attended the school. +"They gave," says the _Annual Register_, "such a proof of their capacity +that many who had not been there more than six months carried home to their +parents from 5s. to 7s. a month, with expectation of getting more as they +improve." + +From this time we hear no more of the making of lace, either point or bone, +in the metropolis. + +PLATE LXXXV. + +[Illustration: ENGLISH, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. BOBBIN LACE.--First half of +nineteenth century. Widths: 3, 3, 3, 4 in. The property of Mrs. Ellis, The +Vicarage, Much Wenlock.] + +_To face page 374._ + + + + +{375}CHAPTER XXX. + +BEDFORDSHIRE, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, AND NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.[1104] + +---- + +BEDFORDSHIRE. + + "He wears a stuff whose thread is coarse and round + But trimmed with curious lace."--Herbert. + +It would be a difficult matter now to determine when and by whom +lace-making was first introduced into the counties of Bedfordshire and +Buckingham. Authors, for the most part, have been glad to assign its +introduction to the Flemings,[1105] a nation to whose successive +emigrations England owes much of her manufacturing greatness. Originally +the laces were of old, wavy, graceful Flemish designs. + +On the other hand, certain traditions handed down in the county villages of +a good Queen who protected their craft, the annual festival of the +workers--in the palmy days of the trade a matter of great moment--combined +with the residence of that unhappy Queen, for the space of two years[1106] +at her jointure manor of Ampthill,[1107] lead us rather to infer {376}that +the art of lace-making, as it then existed, was first imparted to the +peasantry of Bedfordshire, as a means of subsistence, through the charity +of Queen Katherine of Aragon. In the chapter devoted to needlework we have +already alluded to the proficiency of this Queen in all arts connected with +the needle, to the "trials of needlework" established by her mother, Queen +Isabella, at which she, as a girl, had assisted. It is related, also, that +during her[1108] sojourn at Ampthill, "she passed her time, when not at her +devotions, with her gentlewomen, working with her own hands something +wrought in needlework, costly and artificially, which she intended for the +honour of God to bestow on some of the churches."[1109] + +"The country people," continues her contemporary, "began to love her +exceedingly. They visited her out of pure respect, and she received the +tokens of regard they daily showed her most sweetly and graciously." The +love borne by the peasantry to the Queen, the sympathy shown to her in her +days of trouble and disgrace, most likely met with its reward; and we +believe Katherine to have taught them an art which, aided no doubt by the +later introduction of the pillow and the improvements of the refugees, has +now, for the space of nigh three centuries, been the staple employment of +the female population of Bedfordshire and the adjoining counties. Until the +latter half of the nineteenth century--though, like all such festivals in +the present age, gradually dying out--the lace-makers still held "Cattern's +day,"[1110] November 25th, as the holiday of their craft, kept, they say, +"in memory of good Queen Katherine, who, when the trade was dull, burnt all +her lace and ordered new to be made. The ladies of the court {377}followed +her example, and the fabric once more revived." "Ainsi s'écrit l'histoire"; +and this garbled version may rest on as much foundation as most of the +folk-lore current throughout the provinces. + +Speaking of Bedfordshire, Defoe writes: "Thro' the whole south part of this +country, as far as the borders of Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire, the +people are taken up with the manufacture of bone lace, in which they are +wonderfully exercised and improved within these few years +past"[1111]--probably since the arrival of the French settlers after the +Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. At the same period the author of the +_Magna Britannia_[1112] states that at Woburn "lace of a high price is made +in considerable quantities." Savary and Peuchet both declare the town of +Bedford alone to have contained 500 lace-workers. + +In 1863, as Mrs. Palliser wrote: "The lace schools of Bedfordshire are far +more considerable than those in Devonshire. Four or five may frequently be +found in the same village, numbering from twenty to thirty children each, +and they are considered sufficiently important to be visited by Government +inspectors. Their work is mostly purchased by large dealers, who make their +arrangements with the instructress: the children are not bound for a term, +as in the southern counties. Boys formerly attended the lace schools, but +now they go at an early age to the fields." + +These lace-schools are now things of the past. In some cases, however, in +the lace counties, the County Council Technical Education Committee have +supplemented private efforts with grants for classes to teach the lace +industry. + +The wages of a lace-worker average a shilling a day; under press of +business, caused by the demand for some fashionable article, they sometimes +rise to one shilling and sixpence. + + +{378}BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. + +Though the first establishment of the fabric may have been in the sister +county, the workers of Buckingham appear early to have gained the lion's +share of public estimation for the produce of their pillows, and the +manufacture flourished, till, suffering from the monopolies of James I., we +read how--In the year 1623, April 8th, a petition was addressed from Great +Marlow to the High Sheriff of Bucks, representing the distress of the +people from "the bone-lace making being much decayed."[1113] + +Three years later, 1626, Sir Henry Borlase founds and endows the free +school of Great Marlow for twenty-four boys to read, write, and cast +accounts; and for twenty-four girls "to knit, spin, and make bone lace"; +and here at Great Marlow the trade flourished, all English, and even French +authors[1114] citing its "manufactures de dentelles au fuseau" as the +staple produce of the town, and its surrounding villages, which sold lace, +however, they pronounce as "inférieure à celle de Flandres." + +During the seventeenth century the trade continued to advance, and Fuller +testifies to its once more prosperous condition in Bucks, towards the year +1640. "No handicrafts of note," he writes, "(save what are common to other +countries) are used therein, except any will instance in bone lace, much +thereof being made about Owldney, in this county, though more, I believe, +in Devonshire, where we shall meet more properly therewith."[1115] Olney, +as it is now written, a small market town, for many years the residence of +Cowper, known by its twenty-four-arched bridge, now no more, "of wearisome +but needful length" spanning the Ouse--Olney, together with the fellow +towns of Newport-Pagnel and Aylesbury, are much quoted by the authorities +of the last century, though, as is too often the case in books of travels +and statistics, one writer copies from another the information derived from +a preceding author. Defoe, however, who visited each county in detail, +quotes "Ouldney as possessing a considerable manufacture of bone lace"; +{379}while a letter from the poet Cowper to the Rev. John Newton, in 1780, +enclosing a petition to Lord Dartmouth in favour of the lace-makers, +declares that "hundreds in this little town are upon the point of starving, +and that the most unremitting industry is barely sufficient to keep them +from it." A distress caused, we may infer, by some caprice of fashion. + +"The lace manufacture is still carried on," says Lysons,[1116] "to a great +extent in and about Olney, where veils and other lace of the finer sorts +are made, and great fortunes are said to be acquired by the factors. +Lace-making is in no part of the country so general as at Hanslape and in +its immediate vicinity; but it prevails from fifteen to twenty miles round +in every direction. At Hanslape not fewer than 800 out of a population of +1275 were employed in it in the year 1801. Children are put to the +lace-schools at, or soon after, five years of age. At eleven or twelve +years of age they are all able to maintain themselves without any +assistance; both girls and boys are taught to make it, and some men when +grown up follow no other employment; others, when out of work, find it a +good resource, and can earn as much as the generality of day labourers. The +lace made in Hanslape is from sixpence to two guineas a yard in value. It +is calculated that from £8000 to £9000 net profit is annually brought into +the parish by the lace manufacture." + +The bone lace of Stoney Stratford[1117] and Aylesbury are both quoted by +Defoe, and the produce of the latter city is mentioned with praise. He +writes: "Many of the poor here are employed in making lace for edgings, not +much inferior to those from Flanders; but it is some pleasure to us to +observe that the English are not the only nation in the world which admires +foreign manufactures above its own, since the French, who gave fashions to +most nations, buy and sell the finest laces at Paris under the name of +'dentelles d'Angleterre' or 'English laces.'"[1118] + +In the southern part of Buckinghamshire the hundreds of Burnham and +Desborough were especially noted for the {380}art, the lace-workers +producing handsome lace of the finest quality, and about the year 1680 +lace-making was one of the principal employments in High Wycombe.[1119] + +But Newport-Pagnel, whether from its more central position, or being of +greater commercial importance, is the town which receives most praise from +all contemporary authors. "This town," says the _Magna Britannia_ in 1720, +"is a sort of staple for bone lace, of which more is thought to be made +here than any town in England; that commodity is brought to as great +perfection almost as in Flanders." "Newport-Pagnel," writes Defoe, "carries +on a great trade in bone lace, and the same manufacture employs all the +neighbouring villages"; while Don Manuel Gonzales,[1120] in 1730, speaks of +its lace as little inferior to that of Flanders, which assertion he may +have probably copied from previous writers. + +{381}[Illustration: Fig. 133. + +BUCKINGHAMSHIRE TROLLY.] + +At one of the earliest meetings of the Anti-Gallican Society, 1752, Admiral +Vernon in the chair, the first prize to the maker of the best piece of +English bone lace was awarded to Mr. William Marriott, of Newport-Pagnel, +Bucks. The principal lace-dealers in London were invited to give their +opinion, and they allowed it to be the best ever made in England. +Emboldened by this success, we read how, in 1761, Earl Temple, Lord +Lieutenant of Bucks, having been requested by Richard Lowndes, Esq., one of +the Knights of the Shire, on behalf of the lace-makers, to present to the +King a pair of fine lace ruffles, made by Messrs. Milward and Company, at +Newport-Pagnel, in the same county, his Majesty, after looking at them and +asking many questions respecting this branch of trade, was most graciously +pleased to express himself that the inclination of his own heart naturally +led him to set a high value on every endeavour to further English +manufactures, and whatever had such recommendation would be preferred by +him to works of possibly higher perfection made in any other country.[1121] +From this period Newport-Pagnel is cited as {382}one of the most noted +towns in the kingdom for making bone lace.[1122] + +As in other places, much complaint was made of the unhealthy state of the +lace-working population, and of the injury sustained by long sitting in the +vitiated air of the cottages.[1123] + +[Illustration: Fig. 134. + +BUCKINGHAMSHIRE "POINT."] + +In Pennant's _Journey from Chester to London_ (in 1782), he notices in +Towcester that, "this town is supported by the great concourse of +passengers, and by a manufacture of lace, and a small one of silk +stockings. The first was {383}imported from Flanders, and carried on with +much success in this place, and still more in the neighbouring county" +(Buckinghamshire). + +[Illustration: Fig. 135. + +BUCKINGHAMSHIRE "POINT."] + +At the end of the eighteenth century, the Revolution again drove many of +the poorer French to seek refuge on our shores, as they had done a century +before; and we find stated in the _Annual Register_ of 1794: "A number of +ingenious French emigrants have found employment in Bucks, Bedfordshire, +and the adjacent counties, in the manufacturing of lace, and it is +expected, through the means of these artificers, considerable improvements +will be introduced into the method of making English lace." + +Figs. 134 and 135 represent the "point" ground, which won the laces of the +midland counties their reputation. (See NORTHAMPTONSHIRE for additional +matter.) + + +{384}NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. + +The laces of Northampton do not appear to have attracted the notice of the +writers of the eighteenth century so much as those of the sister counties. + +Anderson mentions that Kettering has "a considerable trade in lace"; and +Lysons, later, observes that lace is made at Cheney. Certainly, the +productions of this county a century back were of exquisite beauty, as we +can bear testimony from the specimens in a pattern-book inherited by Mr. +Cardwell, the well-known lace merchant of Northampton, from his predecessor +in the trade, which we have had an opportunity of examining. We have also +received examples from various localities in Bedfordshire and +Buckinghamshire, and as there is much similarity in the products of the +three counties, we shall, perhaps, better describe them by treating of them +all collectively. + +The earliest English lace was naturally the old Flemish, the pattern wavy +and graceful, the ground well executed. Fig. 136, which we select as an +example, is a specimen we received, with many others, of old Newport-Pagnel +lace, given by Mrs. Bell, of that town, where her family has been +established from time immemorial. Mrs. Bell could carry these laces back to +the year 1780, when they were bequeathed to her father by an aged relative +who had long been in the lace trade. The packets remain for the most part +entire. The custom of "storing" lace was common among the country-people. + +Next in antiquity is Fig. 137, a lace of Flemish design, with the fine +Brussels ground. This is among the Northamptonshire laces already alluded +to. + +Many of the early patterns appear to have been run or worked in with the +needle on the net ground (Fig. 138). + +PLATE LXXXVI. + +[Illustration: ENGLISH, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. BOBBIN LACE.--End of nineteenth +century. Widths: 1¾, 5¼ and 2 in. + +Photo by A. Dryden from a private collection.] + +_To face page 384._ + +{385}In 1778, according to M'Culloch,[1124] was introduced the "point" +ground, as it is locally termed, from which period dates the staple pillow +lace trade of these counties. This ground is beautifully clear, the +patterns well executed: we doubt if Fig. 139 could be surpassed in beauty +by lace of any foreign manufacture. Much of this point ground was made by +men. + +[Illustration: Fig. 136. + +OLD FLEMISH.--(Newport-Pagnel.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 137. + +OLD BRUSSELS.--(Northampton.)] + +The principal branch of the lace trade was the making of "baby lace," as +those narrow laces were called, most specially employed for the adorning of +infants' caps (Figs. 140, 141, 142). The "point" ground was used, the +patterns taken from those of Lille and Mechlin--hence the laces of +Buckingham and Bedfordshire have often been styled "English Lille." Though +the fashion in the mother-country passed away, the American ladies held to +the trimmed infant's cap until the breaking out of the Civil War; and up to +that date large quantities of "baby lace" were exported to America, the +finer sorts varying from five shillings to seven shillings and sixpence a +yard, still retaining their ancient name of "points." + +{386}[Illustration: Fig. 138. + +"RUN" LACE.--(Newport-Pagnel.)] + +Many other descriptions of grounds were made--wire (Fig. 143), double, and +trolly, in every kind of quality and width. In the making of the finer +sorts of edging as many as 200 threads would be employed. + +[Illustration: Fig. 139. + +ENGLISH "POINT."--(Northampton.)] + +On the breaking out of the war with France, the closing of our ports to +French goods gave an impetus to the trade, and the manufacturers undertook +to supply the English {387}market with lace similar to that of Normandy and +the sea-coast villages of France; hence a sort of "fausse" Valenciennes, +called the "French ground." But true Valenciennes was also fabricated so +fine (Fig. 144) as to rival the products of French Hainault. It was made in +considerable quantities, until the expertness of the smuggler and the +cessation of the war caused it to be laid aside. + +[Illustration: Fig. 140. + +"BABY" LACE.--(Northampton.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 141. + +"BABY" LACE.--(Beds.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 142. + +"BABY" LACE.--(Bucks.)] + +One-third of the lace-workers of Northampton were {388}employed, previous +to the introduction of machine-made net, in making quillings on the pillow. + +During the Regency, a "point" lace, with the "cloth" or "toilé" on the +edge, for many years was in fashion, and, in compliment to the Prince, was +named by the loyal manufacturers "Regency Point." It was a durable and +handsome lace (Fig. 145). + +[Illustration: Fig. 143. + +WIRE GROUND.--(Northampton.)] + +Towards the year 1830, insertions found their way to the public taste (Fig. +146). + +Till the middle of the nineteenth century, in lace-making districts, almost +the only schools were the lace schools--and there were several in most +villages--where lace-making was the principal thing taught and a little +reading added. I am indebted to Mrs. Roberts, formerly of Spratton, near +Northampton, for the following description, which she kindly allows me to +reprint. + +[Illustration: Fig. 144. + +VALENCIENNES.--(Northampton.)] + +{389}[Illustration: Fig. 145. + +REGENCY POINT.--(Bedford.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 146. + +INSERTION.--(Bedford.)] + +"The following are the few particulars of the old lace school for which +this village was at one time famous. Indeed, it may be borne in mind that, +owing to the great interest taken in education by a former squire and a +former vicar, Spratton fifty years ago was far ahead of its neighbours in +the matter of education; and the Spratton school and Mr. Pridmore, the +Spratton schoolmaster, with his somewhat strict discipline, were well +known, not only to the children of Spratton, but to the boys and girls of +most of the adjacent villages. But the lace school was, no doubt, a +commercial institution, and I think it will be admitted that the hours were +long and the work severe. The girls left the {390}day school at the age of +eight years, and joined the lace school, and here the hours were from 6 +A.M. to 6 P.M. in the summer, and from 8 A.M. to 8 P.M. in the winter. Half +an hour was allowed for breakfast and for tea, and one hour for dinner, so +that there were ten hours for actual work. The girls had to stick ten pins +a minute, or six hundred an hour; and if at the end of the day they were +five pins behind, they had to work for another hour. On Saturdays, however, +they had a half-holiday, working only to the dinner-hour. They counted to +themselves every pin they stuck, and at every fiftieth pin they called out +the time, and the girls used to race each other as to who should call out +first. + +"They paid twopence a week (or threepence in winter) for lights, and in +return they received the money realised from the sale of the lace they +made, and they could earn about sixpence a day. Pay-day was a great event; +it came once a month. + +"In the evenings eighteen girls worked by one tallow candle, value one +penny; the 'candle-stool' stood about as high as an ordinary table with +four legs. In the middle of this was what was known as the 'pole-board,' +with six holes in a circle and one in the centre. In the centre hole was a +long stick with a socket for the candle at one end and peg-holes through +the sides, so that it could be raised or lowered at will. In the other six +holes were placed pieces of wood hollowed out like a cup, and into each of +these was placed a bottle made of very thin glass and filled with +water.[1125] These bottles acted as strong condensers or lenses, and the +eighteen girls sat round the table, three to each bottle, their stools +being upon different levels, the highest nearest the bottle, which threw +the light down upon the work like a burning-glass. In the day-time as many +as thirty girls, and sometimes boys, would work in a room about twelve feet +square, with two windows, and in the winter they could have no fire for +lack of room." The makers of the best laces would sit nearest the light, +and so on in order of merit. + +A "down" in Northamptonshire is the parchment {391}pattern, generally about +twelve inches long. In Buckinghamshire they have two "eachs" ten inches +long, and putting one in front of the other, so work round the pillow, +which to many commends itself as a better plan than having one "down" and +moving the lace back on reaching the end of the "down." The pillow is a +hard round cushion, stuffed with straw and well hammered to make it hard +for the bobbins to rattle on. It is then covered with the butcher-blue +"pillow-cloth" all over; a "lace cloth" of the same, for the lace to lie +on, goes over the top; then follows the lace-paper to pin it in as made, +covered with the "lacing," which is a strip of bright print. The "hinder" +of blue linen covers up all behind, the "worker" keeping the parchment +clean in front where the hands rest. A bobbin bag and scissors are then +tied on one side and a pin-cushion on the top; a cloth "heller" is thrown +over the whole when not used. + +The pins are fine brass ones made on purpose;[1126] the bobbins are of +various sizes and makes--very fine for fine lace, heavier and twisted round +with strips of brass for coarser laces and gimp for the threads, which are +the tracing ones, dividing the different characters of patterns; some are +of bone with words tattoed round in columns. The usual bobbin is plain +turned wood, with coloured beads at the end for the necessary weight. The +number varies from twenty to five hundred, according to the width of the +pattern.[1127] + +{392}The Exhibition of 1851 gave a sudden impulse to the traders, and from +that period the lace industry rapidly developed. At this time was +introduced the Maltese guipures and the "plaited" laces, a variety grafted +on the old Maltese (Fig. 147). Five years later appears the first specimen +of the raised plait, now so thoroughly established in the market. At the +time Queen Victoria's trousseau was made, in which only English lace was +used, the prices paid were so enormous that men made lace in the fields. In +those days the parchments on which the patterns were pricked were worth +their weight in gold; many were extremely old and their owners were very +jealous of others copying their patterns. But, of late years, we hear of so +little store being set by these parchments that they were actually boiled +down to make glue. + +[Illustration: Fig. 147. + +PLAITED LACE.--(Bedford.)] + +The decay which threatened almost total extinction of the industry belongs +to the last twenty years. The contributory causes were several, chiefly the +rapid development of machinery, which enabled large quantities to be sold +at lower rates than the hand-workers could starve on, while the quality of +the manufactured goods was good enough for the {393}large public that +required lace to last but a short time. Foreign competition, the higher +wages required by all, and the many new employments opening to women took +away the young people from the villages. In 1874 more than thirty young +lace-women left a village of four hundred inhabitants to seek work +elsewhere. The old workers gave up making good laces and supplied the +popular demand with Maltese, which grew more and more inferior both in +design and quality of thread, and gradually the old workers died out and no +new ones took their places. The Lace Association has been started with the +object of stimulating and improving the local manufacture of pillow lace, +of providing lace-workers with greater facilities for the sale of their +work at more remunerative prices. Its aim is also to save the old designs +of the "point" lace and discourage the coarse Maltese, to get new designs +copied from old laces, and insist on only the best thread being used,[1128] +and good workmanship, and finally, to bring the lace before the public, and +send it direct from worker to the purchaser, thus enabling the former to +get the full value, saving the large profits which the dealers, buying for +the shopkeepers, intercept for their own advantage. + +[Illustration: Fig. 148. + +RAISED PLAIT.--Bedford.] + +Pillow lace was also made to some extent in Derbyshire. + + +{394}SUFFOLK. + +Suffolk has produced bobbin-made laces of little artistic value. The +patterns in most of the specimens in the Victoria and Albert Museum +collection are derived from simple Mechlin, Lille, and Valenciennes +patterns. "The make of the lace resembles that of Buckinghamshire laces, +and that of the Norman laces of the present time. The entire collection +displays varied combinations of six ways of twisting and plaiting +thread."[1129] + +PLATE LXXXVII. + +[Illustration: ENGLISH, SUFFOLK. BOBBIN LACE.--Nineteenth century. +Resembling inferior Buckinghamshire, also Normandy and Saxony laces. +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 394._ + + + + +{395}CHAPTER XXXI. + +WILTSHIRE AND DORSETSHIRE. + + +From Wiltshire and Dorset, counties in the eighteenth century renowned for +their lace, the trade has now passed away; a few workers may yet be found +in the retired sea-side village of Charmouth, and these are diminishing +fast. + +Of the Wiltshire manufactures we know but little, even from tradition, save +that the art did once prevail. Peuchet alludes to it. When Sir Edward +Hungerford attacked Wardour Castle in Wiltshire, Lady Arundel, describing +the destruction of the leaden pipes by the soldiers, says, "They cut up the +pipe and sold it, as these men's wives in North Wiltshire do bone lace, at +sixpence a yard." + +One Mary Hurdle, of Marlborough, in the time of Charles II., tells us in +her "Memoirs"[1130] that, being left an orphan, she was apprenticed by the +chief magistrate to a maker of bone lace for eight years, and after that +period of servitude she apprenticed herself for five years more. + +Again, at the time of the Great Plague, cautions are issued by the Mayor of +Marlborough to all parents and masters how they send their children and +servants to school or abroad in making bone lace or otherwise, in any +public house, place, or school used for that purpose.[1131] + +In the proceedings of the Anti-Gallican Society it is recorded that the +second prize for needle point ruffles was, in 1751, awarded to Mrs. +Elizabeth Waterman, of the episcopal city of Salisbury. Such are the scanty +notices we have been able to glean of the once flourishing lace trade in +Wiltshire. + +{396}Dorset, on the other hand, holds a high place in the annals of +lace-making, three separate towns, in their day--Blandford, Sherborne, and +Lyme Regis--disputing the palm of excellence for their productions. + +Of Blandford the earliest mention we find is in Owen's _Magna Britannica_ +of 1720, where he states: "The manufacture of this town was heretofore +'band-strings,' which were once risen to a good price, but now times hath +brought both bands themselves and their strings out of use, and so the +inhabitants have turned their hands to making straw works and bone lace, +which perhaps may come to nothing, if the fickle humour of fashionmongers +take to wearing Flanders lace." + +Only four years later Defoe writes of Blandford:--"This city is chiefly +famous for making the finest bone lace in England, and where they showed us +some so exquisitely fine as I think I never saw better in Flanders, France, +or Italy, and which, they said, they rated above £30 sterling a yard; but +it is most certain that they make exceeding rich lace in this county, such +as no part of England can equal." In the edition of 1762, Defoe adds, "This +was the state and trade of the town when I was there in my first journey; +but on June 4, 1731, the whole town, except twenty-six houses, was consumed +by fire, together with the church." + +Postlethwayt,[1132] Hutchins,[1133] Lysons, and Knight (_Imperial +Cyclopædia_) all tell the same story. Peuchet cites the Blandford laces as +"comparables à celles qu'on fait en Flandres (excepté Bruxelles), en +France, et même dans les Etats de Venise"; and Anderson mentions Blandford +as "a well-built town, surpassing all England in fine lace." More reliance +is to be placed on the two last-named authorities than the former, who have +evidently copied Defoe without troubling themselves to inquire more deeply +into the matter. + +[Illustration: Fig. 149. + +ENGLISH NEEDLE-MADE LACE, REPRESENTING THE DEFEAT OF THE SPANISH ARMADA. + +_To face page 396._] + +{397}It is generally supposed that the trade gradually declined after the +great fire of 1731, when it was replaced by the manufacture of buttons, and +no record of its former existence can be found among the present +inhabitants of the place.[1134] + +Fig. 149 represents a curious piece of lace, preserved as an heirloom in a +family in Dorsetshire. It formerly belonged to Queen Charlotte, and, when +purchased by the present owner, had a label attached to it, "Queen +Elizabeth's lace," with the tradition that it was made in commemoration of +the defeat of the Spanish Armada, as the ships, dolphins, and national +emblems testify. At this we beg to demur, as no similar lace was made at +that period; but we do not doubt its having been made in honour of that +victory, for the building is decidedly old Tilbury Fort, familiar to all by +the pencil of Stanfield. But the lace is point d'Argentan, as we see by the +hexagonal "bride" ground and the workmanship of the pattern. None but the +best lace-workers could have made it; it was probably the handiwork of some +English lady, or the pattern, designed in England, may have been sent to +Argentan to execute, perhaps as a present to Queen Charlotte. + +"Since the Reformation the clothing trade declined," writes Defoe, of +Sherborne. "Before 1700, making buttons, haberdashery wares, and bone laces +employed a great many hands"; which said piece of information is repeated +word for word in the _Imperial Cyclopædia_. Other authors, such as +Anderson, declare, at a far later date, Sherborne to carry on a good trade +in lace, and how, up to 1780, much blonde, both white and black, and of +various colours, was made there, of which a supply was sent to all markets. +From the latter end of the eighteenth century, the lace trade of Sherborne +declined, and gradually died out. + +The points of Lyme Regis rivalled, in the eighteenth century, those of +Honiton and Blandford, and when the trade of the last-named town passed +away, Lyme and Honiton laces held their own, side by side, in the London +market. The fabric of Lyme Regis, for a period, came more before the public +eye, for that old, deserted, and half-forgotten mercantile city, in the +eighteenth century, once more raised its head as a fashionable +watering-place. Prizes were awarded by the {398}Anti-Gallican Society[1135] +to Miss Mary Channon, of Lyme Regis, and her fellow-townswoman, Miss Mary +Ben, for ruffles of needle point and bone lace. The reputation of the +fabric, too, of Lyme Regis reached even the court; and when Queen Charlotte +first set foot on English ground, she wore a head and lappets of Dorset +manufacture. Some years later a splendid lace dress was made for her +Majesty by the workers of Lyme, which, says the annalist of our southern +coast,[1136] gave great satisfaction at court. The makers of this costly +product, however, received but fourpence a day for their work. + +The laces of Lyme, like all good articles, were expensive. A narrow piece +set quite plain round an old woman's cap would cost four guineas, nor was +five guineas a yard considered an exorbitant price. + +It was a favourite custom at Lyme for lovers to have their initials +entwined and worked together on a piece of ornamental lace. + +The making of such expensive lace being scarcely found remunerative, the +trade gradually expired; and when the order for the marriage lace of Queen +Victoria reached the southern counties, not one lace-maker was to be found +to aid in the work in the once flourishing town of Lyme Regis. + + + + +{399}CHAPTER XXXII. + +DEVONSHIRE. + + "Bone lace and Cyder."--_Anderson._ + + "At Axminster, you may be furnished with fyne flax thread there spunne. + At Honyton and Bradninch with bone lace much in request."--Westcote. + + +HONITON. + +The lace industry found its way to Devonshire, if the generally-accepted +theory be correct, by the Flemish refugees flying from the persecutions of +the Duke of Alva. There is much probability to support the theory, and some +names,[1137] of undoubted Flemish origin, appear among the entries of the +church registers still preserved at Honiton, towards the latter end of the +sixteenth century--names all handed down to their descendants in the +present generation, and in these families the fabric has continued for a +long lapse of years. On the other hand, if there had been any considerable +number of Flemings in Devonshire, they would surely have founded a company +of their Reformed Church, and no reference is found in the published books +of the archives of the London Dutch Church of any such company in +Devonshire, whereas references abound to places in the Eastern Counties and +Midlands where Flemings were settled. Lace was made on the pillow in the +Low Countries by the middle of the sixteenth century, so by the date of the +Alva persecution (1568-77) the people might have learned it in sufficient +numbers to start it wherever they set up their new home. Up to that date in +England lace was made with the needle,[1138] {400}and it was not till we +read of "bone-lace" that it may be taken to mean pillow-lace. The term +"bone," according to Fuller, was applied from the custom of using sheep's +trotters as bobbins. In Devonshire, however, the tradition is that, owing +to the high price of pins, the lace-makers, being within reach of the sea, +made use of fish-bones, and thus pillow-lace became "bone-lace." The term +"bobbin" came into use soon afterwards, but was not so universal as "bone"; +it occurs in the Wardrobe Accounts and Royal inventories (where one entry +runs, "In ye shoppe, 4 oz. and ½ of Bobbing lace, 6s. 4d."). + +Although the earliest known MS.[1139] giving an account of the different +towns in Devon makes no mention of lace, we find from it that Mrs. +Minifie,[1140] one of the earliest-named lace-makers, was an Englishwoman. + +Queen Elizabeth was much addicted to the collecting and wearing of +beautiful clothes; but no mention of English lace by name seems to occur in +the inventories and accounts, and the earliest mention of Honiton lace is +by Westcote, who, writing about 1620, speaks of "bone lace much in request" +being made at Honiton and Bradninch; and again referring to Honiton. +"Here," says he, "is made abundance of bone lace, a pretty toye now greatly +in request; and therefore the town may say with merry Martial-- + + "In praise for toyes such as this + Honiton second to none is." + +The oft-cited inscription let into a raised tombstone, near the wall of old +Honiton church, together with Westcote, {401}prove the industry to have +been well established in the reign of James I. The inscription runs-- + + "Here lyeth y^e body of James Rodge, of Honinton, in y^e County of + Devonshire (Bonelace Siller, hath given unto the poore of Honinton + P'ishe, the benyfitt of £100 for ever), who deceased y^e 27 of July A^o + D^i 1617 AETATAE SVAE 50. Remember the Poore." + +There have been traditions that Rodge was a valet who accompanied his +master abroad, and there learning the fine Flemish stitches, taught some +Devonshire women on his return home, and was enabled to make a comfortable +competence by their work, bequeathing a sum of money to the poor of +Honiton; but it is more probable that he was an ordinary dealer. + +Westcote,[1141] who wrote about the year 1620, when noticing bone lace, +does not speak of it as a new manufacture; the trade had already taken root +and flourished, for, including the above-mentioned Rodge, the three +earliest bone lace makers of the seventeenth century on record all at their +decease bequeathed sums of money for the benefit of their indigent +townspeople, viz., Mrs. Minifie,[1142] before mentioned, who died in 1617, +and Thomas Humphrey, of Honiton, laceman, who willed in the year 1658 £20 +towards the purchase of certain tenements, a notice of which benefaction is +recorded on a painted board above the gallery of the old parish church. + +By this time English lace had advanced in public estimation. In the year +1660 a royal ordinance of France provided that a mark should be affixed to +thread lace imported from England as well as on that of Flanders; and we +have already told elsewhere how the Earl of Essex procures, through his +countess, bone lace to a considerable amount as a present to Queen Anne of +Austria. + +Speaking of bone lace, writes Fuller in his _Worthies_: "Much of this is +made in and about Honyton, and weekly returned to London.... Modern is the +use thereof in England, and that not exceeding the middle of the reign of +{402}Queen Elizabeth. Let it not be condemned for a superfluous wearing +because it doth neither hide, nor heat, seeing it doth adorn. Besides, +though private persons pay for it, it stands the State in nothing; not +expensive of bullion like other lace, costing nothing save a little thread +descanted on by art and industry. Hereby many children, who otherwise would +be burthensome to the parish, prove beneficial to their parents. Yea, many +lame in their limbs and impotent in their arms, if able in their fingers, +gain a livelihood thereby; not to say that it saveth some thousands of +pounds yearly, formerly sent over seas to fetch lace from Flanders." + +The English were always ready to protect their own trades and manufactures, +and various were the Acts passed to prohibit the importation of foreign +lace, for the encouragement of home workers. In 1698 it was proposed to +repeal the last preceding prohibition; and, from the text of a petition +sent to the House of Commons, some interesting light is thrown on the +extent of the trade at that time. + +"The making of Bone-lace has been an ancient Manufacture of England, and +the Wisdom of our Parliaments all along thought it the Interest of this +Kingdom to prohibit its Importation from Foreign Parts.... This has revived +the said Languishing Manufacture, and there are now above one hundred +thousand in England who get their living by it, and earn by mere Labour +£500,000 a year, according to the lowest computation that can be made; and +the Persons employed on it are, for the most part, Women and children who +have no other means of Subsistence. The English are now arrived to make as +good lace in Fineness and all other respects as any that is wrought in +Flanders, and particularly since the last Act, so great an improvement is +made that way that in Buckinghamshire, the highest prized lace they used to +make was about eight shillings per yard, and now they make lace there of +above thirty shillings per yard, and in Dorsetshire and Devonshire they now +make lace worth six pound per yard.... + +"... The Lace Manufacture in England is the greatest, next to the woollen, +and maintains a multitude of People, which otherwise the Parishes must, and +that would soon prove a heavy burthen, even to those concerned in the +Woollen Manufacture. On the Resolution, which shall be taken in this affair +depends the Well-being, or ruin of numerous families in their Country. Many +laws have been made to set our Poor on Work, and it is to be hoped none +will be made to take away work from Multitudes who are already +employed."[1143] + +PLATE LXXXVIII. + +[Illustration: ENGLISH, DEVONSHIRE. REPRODUCTIONS OF OLD HONITON WITH THE +VRAI RÉSEAU.--Made under Mrs. Fowler's direction. Widths about 4 inches. + +Photo by A. Dryden.] + +_To face page 402._ + +{403}Even in 1655, when the variety of points furnished matter for a letter +from the members of the Baptist Church assembled at Bridgewater, the +"Beleeven men," unwilling to injure so nourishing a commerce, merely +censure "points and more laces than are required on garments," and these +they desired might be proceeded against "with all sweetness and tenderness +and long-suffering."[1144] The conciliatory measures of the Puritans, +maybe, affected the trade less than the doing of Lord Cambury and Lord +Churchill's dragoons in the suppression of Monmouth's rebellion in 1680, by +which time the lace-making art was carried on in many small country places +in Devon. They pillaged the lace-makers right and left, and, when quartered +at Colyton,[1145] these unruly soldiers broke into the house of one William +Bard, a dealer in bone lace, and there stole merchandise to the amount of +£325 17s. 9d.[1146] + +"The valuable manufactures of lace, for which the inhabitants of Devon have +long been conspicuous, are extending now from Exmouth to Torbay,"[1147] +writes Defoe in 1724. {404}These must, however, have received a check as +regards the export trade, for, says Savary, who wrote about the same date, +"Depuis qu'on imite les dentelles nommées point d'Angleterre en Flandres, +Picardie et Champagne, on n'en tire plus de Londres pour la France." + +Great distress, too, is said to have existed among the Honiton lace-makers +after the two great fires of 1756 and 1767. The second was of so +devastating a character that the town had to be rebuilt. Shawe declares, +writing at the end of the eighteenth century: "For its present condition +Honiton is indebted to that dreadful fire which reduced three parts of it +to ashes. The houses now wear a pleasing aspect, and the principal street, +extending from east to west, is paved in a remarkable manner, forming a +canal, well shouldered up on each side with pebbles and green turf, which +holds a stream of clear water with a square dipping place opposite each +door, a mark of cleanliness and convenience I never saw before." + +[Illustration: Fig. 150.] + +Three years previous to the Great Fire,[1148] among a number of premiums +awarded by the Anti-Gallican Society for the encouragement of our lace +trade, the first prize of fifteen guineas is bestowed upon Mrs. Lydia +Maynard, of Honiton, "in token of six pairs of ladies' lappets of +unprecedented beauty, exhibited by her." About this time we read {405}in +Bowen's _Geography_[1149] that at Honiton: "the people are chiefly employed +in the manufactory of lace, the broadest sort that is made in England, of +which great quantities are sent to London." "It acquired," says Lysons, +"some years since, the name of Bath Brussels lace." + +To give a precise description of the earliest Devonshire lace would now be +impossible. The bone or bobbin lace at first consisted of a small and +simple imitation of the beautiful Venetian geometrical cut-works and +points, mere narrow strips made by coarse threads plaited and interlaced. +They became wider and more elaborate as the workers gained experience. +Specimens may be seen on two Devonshire monuments, though whether the lace +of the district is imitated on the effigies is another matter; in any case +similar patterns were probably made there at the time. One is on the +monument of Lady Pole, in Colyton Church, where the lady's cape is edged +with three rows of bone lace. The other, which is in excellent +preservation, is on the recumbent effigy of Lady Doddridge (a member of the +Bampfylde family) in Exeter Cathedral, her cuffs and tucker being adorned +with geometric lace of a good pattern. Both belong to the first part of the +seventeenth century. + +In the same Cathedral is the monument of Bishop Stafford.[1150] His collar +appears to be of a net-work, embroidered in patterns of graceful design +(Fig. 151). + +Belgium was noted for her linens and delicately spun flax. In consequence +the Flemings soon departed from the style of their Italian masters, and +made laces of their own fine threads. They worked out their own designs +also, and being great gardeners and fond of flowers, it naturally came +about that they composed devices of blossoms and foliage. + +{406}[Illustration: Fig. 151. + +MONUMENT OF BISHOP STAFFORD, EXETER CATHEDRAL.] + +These alterations in course of time found their way to England, there being +much intercourse between their brethren here established and those +remaining in Flanders. The lace continued to get finer and closer in +texture, the flax thread being required so fine that it became necessary to +spin it in damp underground cellars. That the workers in England could not +compete successfully against the foreigner with their home-made threads we +find over and over again. They also altered the Brussels designs, and +instead of the beautiful "fillings" and open-work stitches, substituted +heavy guipure bars. By this period "cordonnet" or "gimp" had come into use +in Brussels lace. The "_vrai réseau_" or pillow-net ground, succeeded the +"bride" about the end of the seventeenth century. This fashion enabled the +flowers to be made separately and worked in with the net afterwards, or +rather the net was worked into the flowers on the pillow. It was from the +introduction of these separate sprigs that Honiton lace was able to compete +with Brussels. The pattern in Fig. 153 is sewn on the plain pillow +ground,[1151] which was very beautiful and regular, but very expensive. It +was made of the finest thread procured from Antwerp, the market price of +which, in 1790, was £70 per pound,[1152] and an old lace-maker told the +author her father {407}had, during the war, paid a hundred guineas a pound +to the smugglers for this highly-prized and then almost unattainable +commodity. + +Nor were the lace-worker's gains less remunerative. She would receive as +much as eighteen shillings a yard for the workmanship alone of a piece of +this elaborate net, measuring scarce two inches in width;[1153] and one of +the old lace-dealers showed Mrs. Treadwin a piece of ground eighteen inches +square, for the making of which she was paid fifteen pounds shortly before +the establishment of the machine net manufacture.[1154] The price of lace +was proportionately high. A Honiton veil would often cost a hundred +guineas. + +[Illustration: Fig. 152. + +MONUMENT OF LADY DODDRIDGE. + 1614. (Exeter Cathedral.)] + +The Flemish character of Fig. 158 is unmistakable. The {408}design of the +flower vase resembles those of the old Angleterre à bride, and in execution +this specimen may fairly warrant a comparison with the productions of +Brabant. If really of English make, we should place its fabrication at the +beginning of the eighteenth century, for it was long before the Devonshire +lace-makers could rival in beauty the "cordonnet" of the Flemish workers. + +Fig. 154 is an example of the pattern worked in the favourite design of the +butterfly and the acorn, already familiar to us in the old point +d'Angleterre and in the smock of Queen Elizabeth. + +[Illustration: Fig. 153.] + +The American War had an evil effect upon the lace trade, and still worse +was the French Revolution, which was followed by the fashion of classical +dress. Lace became no longer necessary to a lady's wardrobe, and the demand +for it declined to a serious extent for the workers. Worse than these, +however, was the introduction of the machine net, the first factory being +set up at Tiverton in 1815. Lysons writes shortly afterwards in 1822: "The +manufactory of lace has much declined, although the lace still retains its +superiority. Some years ago, at which time it was much patronised by the +Royal family, the manufacturers of Honiton employed 2,400 hands in the town +and in the neighbouring villages, but they do not now employ above 300." +For twenty years the lace trade suffered the greatest depression, and the +Honiton lace-workers, forsaking the designs of their forefathers, +introduced a most hideous set of patterns, designed, as they said, "out of +their own heads." "Turkey tails," "frying pans," "bullocks' hearts," and +the most senseless sprigs and borderings took the place of the graceful +compositions of the old school. Not a leaf, not a flower was copied from +nature. Anxious to introduce a purer taste, Queen Adelaide, to whom a +petition had been sent on behalf of the distressed lace-makers, gave the +order for a dress to be made of Honiton sprigs,[1155] and commanded that +the flowers should all be copied from nature. The order was executed by +Mrs. Davey, of Honiton. The skirt was encircled with a wreath of elegantly +designed sprigs, the initial of each flower forming the name of her +Majesty.[1156] + +[Illustration: Fig. 154. + +OLD DEVONSHIRE. + +_To face page 408._] + +{409}The example of the Queen found new followers, and when, in the +progress of time, the wedding lace was required for Queen Victoria, it was +with difficulty the necessary number of workers could be obtained to make +it. It was undertaken by Miss Jane Bidney, who caused the work to be +executed in the small fishing hamlet of Beer[1157] and its environs. The +dress cost £1,000. It was composed entirely of Honiton sprigs, connected on +the pillow by a variety of open-work stitches; but the patterns were +immediately destroyed, so it cannot be described. + +The bridal dresses of their Royal Highnesses the Princess Royal, the +Princess Alice, and the Princess of Wales were all of Honiton point, the +patterns consisting of the national flowers, the latter with prince's +feathers intermixed with ferns, and introduced with the most happy effect. + +The application of Honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years +almost entirely superseded by the modern guipure (Fig. 155). The sprigs, +when made, are sewn upon a piece of blue paper, and then united either on +the pillow by "cut-works" or "purlings," or else joined with the needle by +various stitches--lacet point, réseau, cut-work, and buttonhole stitch (the +most effective of all). Purling is made by the yard. The Honiton guipure +has an original character almost unique. The large pieces surpass in +richness and {410}perfection any lace of the same kind made in Belgium. The +reliefs are embroidered with the greatest delicacy, and the beauty of the +workmanship is exquisite; and whereas the guipure applications of Belgium +require to be whitened with lead, the Honiton workers give up their lace in +all its original brilliancy and whiteness.[1158] The fault in the Honiton +lace has been its crowded and spiritless designs, but in these great +improvement was manifested in the Exhibition of 1867. + +Captain Marryat took much pains during a residence at Sidmouth to procure +for the lace-makers new patterns of flowers, insects, and other natural +objects. The younger members of the community accepted with gratitude these +new patterns, and one even reproduced a piece of braidwork in imitation of +Spanish point, and also a collar from Vecellio's book, in a manner most +creditable to her ingenuity. In consequence of this movement, some +gentlemen connected with the Bath and West of England Society[1159] +proposed that an exhibition should take place at the Annual Agricultural +Show, held at Clifton, of Honiton lace, "designs strictly after nature." +Prizes to the amount of £100 were given. The exhibition was most +successful. Queen Victoria expressed a desire that the articles exhibited +should be sent to Windsor for her inspection, and graciously commanded that +two flounces with a corresponding length of trimming lace should be made +for her. A design executed by Miss Cecilia Marryat having been approved of +by her Majesty, the order for the lace was given to Mrs. Hayman, of +Sidmouth. (Fig. 156 is from one of the honeysuckle sprigs selected.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 155. + +HONITON GUIPURE. + +_To face page 410._] + +{411}The Honiton lace-makers show great aptitude in imitating the Brussels +designs, and[1160] through the efforts of Mrs. Treadwin have succeeded in +reproducing the ancient lace in the most wonderful manner. Fig. 158 is a +lappet in the Brussels style shown in the International Exhibition of 1874. +Mrs. Treadwin produced admirable specimens after the pillow-made lace of +Genoa and Flanders, and also a reproduction of the Venetian point in +relief. + +[Illustration: Fig. 156. + +HONEYSUCKLE SPRIG OF MODERN HONITON.] + +A new branch of industry has lately opened to the Devonshire +lace-maker--that of restoring or re-making old lace. The splendid mantles, +tunics, and flounces which enrich the shop-windows of the great +lace-dealers of London are mostly concocted from old fragments by the +Devonshire lace-workers. It is curious to see the ingenuity they display in +re-arranging the "old rags"--and such they are--sent from London for +restoration. Carefully cutting out the {412}designs of the old work, they +sew them upon a paper pattern of the shape required. The "modes," or fancy +stitches, are dexterously restored, any deficient flower supplied, and the +whole joined together on the pillow. + +[Illustration: Fig. 157. + +OLD DEVONSHIRE POINT.] + + +TROLLY LACE. + +Trolly lace comes next in order. It was quite different from anything else +made in Devonshire, and resembled many of the laces made in the midlands at +the present time. It was made of coarse British thread, and with heavier +and larger bobbins, and worked straight on round and round the pillow. The +origin of "Trolly" was undoubtedly Flemish, but it is said to have reached +Devonshire at the time of the French Revolution, through the Normandy +peasants, driven by want of employment from their own country, where lace +was a great industry during the eighteenth century. The origin of "trolly" +is from the Flemish "Trolle Kant," where the design was outlined with a +thick thread, or, possibly, it may be derived from a corruption of the +French _toilé_, applied to distinguish a flat linen pattern from the ground +or _treille_, a general term for a net ground. It is now almost extinct in +Devonshire, remaining in the hands of the midland counties,[1161] where it +more properly belongs.[1162] + +[Illustration: Fig. 158. + +LAPPET MADE BY THE LATE MRS. TREADWIN, OF EXETER, 1864. + +_To face page 412._] + +{413}Trolly lace was not the work of women alone. In the flourishing days +of its manufacture, every boy, until he had attained the age of fifteen, +and was competent to work in the fields, attended the lace schools +daily.[1163] A lace-maker of Sidmouth, in 1869, had learned her craft at +the village dame school,[1164] in company with many boys. The men, +especially the sailor returned from sea, would again resume the employment +of their boyhood, in their hours of leisure, and the labourer, seated at +his pillow on a summer's evening, would add to his weekly gains. + +Mrs. Treadwin, in her younger days, saw some twenty-four men lace-makers in +her native village of Woodbury, two of whom, Palmer by name, were still +surviving in 1869, and one of these worked at his pillow so late as 1820. + +Captain Marryat also succeeded in finding out a man of sixty, one James +Gooding, dweller in Salcombe parish, near Sidmouth, who had in his day been +a lace-maker of some reputation. "I have made hundreds of yards in my +time," he said, "both wide and narrow, but never worked regularly at my +pillow after sixteen years of age." Delighted to exhibit the craft of his +boyhood, he hunted out his patterns, {414}and, setting to work, produced a +piece of trolly edging, which soon found a place in the albums of sundry +lace-collecting ladies, the last specimen of man-worked lace likely to be +fabricated in the county of Devon.[1165] + +The lace schools of this time were a great feature, there being many in +every village, and as few other schools existed, boys in addition to the +girls of the place attended and learnt the industry. The usual mode of +procedure was this. The children commenced attending at the age of five to +seven, and were apprenticed to the mistress for an average of two years, +who sold all their work for her trouble: they then paid sixpence a week for +a time and had their own lace, then threepence, and so on, according to the +amount of teaching they still required. The young children went first from +ten to twelve in the morning, to accustom them to work by degrees. At +Honiton the full hours were from eight to eight in the summer and in the +depth of winter, but in the spring and autumn less, on account of the +light, as candles were begun only on September 3rd--Nutting day--till +Shrovetide. The old rhyme runs:-- + + "Be the Shrovetide high or low, + Out the candle we will blow." + +At Sidbury it was _de rigueur_ that directly a young girl married, however +young, she wore a cap, but till then the lace-makers were famous for the +beautiful dressing of their hair. When school began they stood up in a +circle to read the "verses." If any of them read "jokily," they were given +a penalty, and likewise for idleness--so much extra work. In nearly all +schools they were taught reading from the Bible, and in some they learnt +writing; but all these are now things of the past. + +[Illustration: Fig. 159. + +VENETIAN RELIEF IN POINT.--Reproduced by the late Mrs. Treadwin. + +_To face page 414._] + +{415}Speaking of the occupation of lace-making, Cooke, in his _Topography +of Devon_, observes: "It has been humanely remarked as a melancholy +consideration that so much health and comfort are sacrificed to the +production of this beautiful though not necessary article of decoration. +The sallow complexion, the weakly frame and the general appearance of +languor and debility of the operatives, are sad and decisive proofs of the +pernicious nature of the employment. The small unwholesome rooms in which +numbers of these females, especially during their apprenticeship, are +crowded together are great aggravations of the evil." He continues at some +length, as indeed do many writers of the eighteenth century, to descant on +this evil, but times are changed, sanitary laws and the love of fresh air +have done much to remedy the mischief.[1166] The pillows, too, are raised +higher than formerly, by which means the stooping, so injurious to health, +is avoided. Old lace-makers will tell stories of the cruel severities +practised on the children in the dame schools of their day--of the length +of time they sat without daring to move from the pillow, of prolonged +punishments imposed on idle apprentices, and other barbarities, but these +are now tales of the past.[1167] + +Ever since the Great Exhibition of 1851 drew attention to the industry, +different persons have been trying to encourage both better design and +better manufacture, but {416}the majority of the people have sought a +livelihood by meeting the extensive demand for cheap laces. Good patterns, +good thread, and good work have been thrown aside, the workers and small +dealers recking little of the fact that they themselves were ruining the +trade as much as the competition of machinery and machine-made lace, and +tarnishing the fair name of Honiton throughout the world, among those able +to love and appreciate a beautiful art. Fortunately there are some to lead +and direct in the right path, and all honour must be given to Mrs. +Treadwin, who started reproducing old laces. She and her clever workers +turned out the most exquisite copies of old Venetian rose point, +Valenciennes, or Flemish. Her successor, Miss Herbert, carries it on; and +while we have Mrs. Fowler and her school at Honiton, and Miss Radford at +Sidmouth, it would be easier to say what the heads and hands of the Devon +lace-workers could not do than to enumerate the many beautiful stitches and +patterns they achieve; needlepoint or pillow, tape guipure or _vrai +réseau_--there are able fingers to suit all tastes.[1168] + +Mrs. Fowler, of Honiton, has made a spirited attempt to teach some young +people.[1169] She employs women and girls all the year round, who work +under the Factory Acts. The girls are taught needlework in addition, and to +put together the sprigs made by the out-workers, the arrangement of which +requires great taste and careful superintendence. The County Council grants +courses of lessons in various places, some for all ages, others for +children.[1170] The Italian laces made at Beer is a new branch, established +by Miss Bowdon, and ably carried on by Miss Audrey Trevelyan of Seaton. +This Italian lace is made entirely on the pillow, and the way in which the +women of Beer have picked up the stitches and mode of making speaks volumes +for their skilfulness and adaptability. There are still a good number of +workers left in this most picturesque village.[1171] + +PLATE LXXXIX. + +[Illustration: ENGLISH, DEVONSHIRE. MADE AT BEER FOR THE PARIS EXHIBITION +OF 1900.--Miss A. Trevelyan adapted an Italian design to the old Honiton +stitches.] + +_To face page 416._ + +{417}A beautiful county and a beautiful art have come down to us hand in +hand. Let us do our best to prevent the one being marred and the other +lost, and keep them both together to be a joy and a pleasure for all time. + + +JAPAN. + +The versatile Japanese have copied the Honiton method of making bobbin +lace. The Government have encouraged a school at Yokohama for pillow lace +making, under the supervision of an English lady, where they turn out lace +of a distinctive Japanese character. + + + + +{418}CHAPTER XXXIII. + +SCOTLAND. + + "With the pearlin above her brow."--Old Scotch Song. + + "Pearlin-lace as fine as spiders' webs."--_Heart of Midlothian._ + + +From her constant intercourse with France, lace must have been early known +in Scotland. + +Of its use for ecclesiastical purposes, at a period when it was still +unknown to the laity, we have evidence in the mutilated effigy of a +crosiered ecclesiastic which once stood in a niche of the now ruined abbey +church of Arbroath. The lace which adorns the robes of this figure is very +elaborately and sharply chiselled, and when first discovered, still +preserved some remains of the gold leaf with which it had been ornamented. + +In the Inventories of King James V. we find constant mention of "pasment" +of gold and silver,[1172] as well as an entry of--"Ane gown of fresit +clayth of gold, with pasment of perle of gold smyth wark lynit with cramasy +sating."[1173] And we have other proofs,[1174] in addition to the testimony +of Sir Walter Scott, as given in the Monastery,[1175] that pasments of gold +and silver as well as "purle," were already in daily use during King +James's reign. + +{419}Indeed, as early as 1575 the General Assembly of Scotland found +necessary, as did the bishops in Denmark, to express its mind as to the +style of dress befitting the clergy, and prohibit "all begares (gardes) of +velvet on gown, hose, or coat, all superfluous cut-out work, all sewing on +of pasments and laces." + +A parchment, too, found in the cabinet of the Countess of Mar,[1176] +entitled "The Passement Bond," signed by the Duke of Lennox and other +nobles, by which they engaged themselves to leave off wearing "passement," +as a matter of expense and superfluity, shows that luxury in dress had +early found its way into Scotland. + +Notwithstanding these entries, it was not until the arrival of Mary Stuart +in her northern dominions that lace in all its varieties appears. The +inventory of the Queen's effects in 1567, printed by the Bannatyne Club, +gives entries of passements, guimpeure d'or, and guimpeure d'argent,[1177] +with which her "robes de satin blanc et jaune" were "bordées" and +"chamarées." Each style of embroidery and lace is designated by its special +name. There is the "natte d'argent faite par entrelatz, passement d'or et +d'argent fait à jour, chamarré de bisette,"[1178] etc. + +The word dentelle, as told elsewhere,[1179] occurs but once. + +We have also alluded to the will made by the Queen previous to the birth of +James VI., and her bequest of her "ouvrages maschés."[1180] A relic of this +expression is yet found in the word "mawsch," or "masch," as the pinking of +silk and muslin is termed in Scotland, an advertisement of which +{420}accomplishment "done here" was seen a few years ago in the +shop-windows of the old town of Edinburgh. + +In the Palace of Holyrood is still exhibited a small basket lined with blue +silk, and trimmed with a bone lace of rudely-spun flax, run on with a +ribbon of the same colour, recorded to be an offering sent by Queen +Elizabeth to her cousin previous to the birth of her godchild. Antiquaries +assert the story to be a fable. Whether the lace be of the time or not, as +a work of art it is of no credit to any country. + +How Queen Mary, in her youth, was instructed in the arts of point coupé and +lacis, according to the works of Vinciolo, has been already related.[1181] +Of her talents as a needlewoman there is ample proof in the numerous beds, +screens, etc., treasured as relics in the houses of the nobles where she +was held captive. She knitted head-dresses of gold "réseille," with cuffs +and collars[1182] en suite,[1183] to say nothing of nightcaps, and sent +them as presents to Elizabeth,[1184] all of which, we are told, the Queen +received most graciously. Mary, in her early portraits as Dauphine of +France, wears no thread lace. Much fine gold embroidered with passament +enriches her dresses; her sleeves are of gold rézeuil. In those of a later +date, like that taken when in Lochleven Castle, her veil is bordered with a +narrow bone lace--as yet a rarity--may be one of the same noted in the +Inventory of 1578, as "Fyve litell vaills of wovin rasour (réseau) of +threde, ane meekle twa of thame, passmentit with perle and black +silk."[1185] + +When the Queen of Scots ascended the scaffold "she wore {421}on her head," +writes Burleigh's reporter, "a dressing of lawn edged with bone lace," and +"a vest of lawn fastened to her caul," edged with the same material. This +lace-edged veil was long preserved as a relic in the exiled Stuart family, +until Cardinal York bequeathed it to Sir John Cox Hippisley. Miss +Pigott[1186] describes it of "transparent zephyr gauze, with a light check +or plaid pattern interwoven with gold; the form as that of a long +scarf."[1187] Sir John, when exhibiting the veil at Baden, had the +indiscretion to throw it over the Queen of Bavaria's head. The Queen +shuddered at the omen, threw off the veil, and retired precipitately from +the apartment, evidently in great alarm. + +"Cuttit out werk," collars of "hollie crisp," quaiffs of woven +thread,[1188] cornettes of layn (linen) sewit with cuttit out werk of gold, +wovin collars of threde, follow in quick succession. The cuttit out werk is +mostly wrought in gold, silver, cramoisi, or black silk.[1189] The Queen's +"towell claiths" are adorned in similar manner.[1190] + +The Chartley Inventory of 1568[1191] is rich in works of point coupé and +rézeuil, in which are portrayed with the needle figures of birds, fishes, +beasts, and flowers, "couppés chascune en son carré." The Queen exercised +much ingenuity in her labours, varying the pattern according to her taste. +In the list are noted fifty-two specimens of flowers designed after nature, +"tirés au naturel;" 124 birds; as well as sixteen sorts of four-footed +beasts, "entre lesquelles y ha un lyon assailant un sanglier;" with +fifty-two fishes, all of {422}divers sorts--giving good proofs of the poor +prisoner's industry. As to the designs after nature, with all respect to +the memory of Queen Mary, the lions, cocks, and fishes of the sixteenth +century which have come under our notice, require a student of mediæval +needlework rather than a naturalist, to pronounce upon their identity. + +James VI. of Scotland, reared in a hotbed of Calvinism, had not the means, +even if he had the inclination, to indulge in much luxury in dress. Certain +necessary entries of braid pasmentis of gold, gold clinquant, braid +pasmentis, cramoisi, for the ornamenting of clokkis, coittis, breikis, and +roobes of the King, with "Twa unce and ane half pasmentis of gold and +silver to werk the headis of the fokkis," made up the amount of expense +sanctioned for the royal wedding;[1192] while 34 ells braid pasmentis of +gold to trim a robe for "his Majesties darrest bedfellow the Quene for her +coronation,"[1193] gives but a poor idea of the luxury of the Scottish +court. + +Various enactments[1194] were passed during the reign of James VI. against +"unnecessary sumptuousness in men's apparel," by which no one except +noblemen, lords of session, prelates, etc., were allowed to wear silver or +gold lace. Provosts were permitted to wear silk, but no lace pearlin or +pasmenterie, only a "watling silk lace" on the seams.[1195] No one but the +above same privileged persons were to have pearlin on their ruffles, +sarkis, napkins, and sokkis, and that pearlin to be made in the kingdom of +Scotland. This Act, dated 1621, is the first mention we have found of +Scottish-made lace. + +James VI. having granted to one James Bannatyne of Leith a patent for the +"importing of foraine pearlin" into the country, in consequence of the +great complaint of the embroiderers in 1639, this patent is rescinded, and +the King forbids the entry of all "foraine pearlin." + +The word lace does not exist in the Scotch language. "Pearlin" is the term +used in old documents, defined in the {423}dictionaries to be "a species of +lace made with thread." In the old Scotch songs it frequently +occurs:--[1196] + + "Then, round the ring she dealt them ane by ane, + Clean in her pearlin keck, and gown alane." + --_Ross Helonora._ + +Again-- + + "We maun hae pearlins and mabbies and cocks, + And some other things that ladies call smocks." + +As the latter articles may appear more familiar to the world in general +than "kecks," and "mabbies," and "cocks," we may as well explain a "pearlin +keck" to signify a linen cap with a lace border; a "mabbie," a mob; a +"cock," or cock-up, no more eccentric head-dress than the lofty fontanges +or commode of the eighteenth century. + +Again, in _Rob Roy_ we have the term "pearlin:" when Bailie Nicol Jarvie +piteously pleads to his kinswoman, Helen Macgregor, he says-- + + "I hae been serviceable to Rob before now, forbye a set of pearlins I + sent yoursell when you were gaun to be married." + +The recollection of these delicate attentions, however, has little effect +on the Highland chieftainess, who threatens to have him chopped up, if ill +befalls her lord, into as many square pieces as compose the Macgregor +tartan, or throw him neck and heels into the Highland loch. + +Montrose, we read, sent his lace ruffles to be starched and dressed before +they were sewn on the embroidered sark he had made only to wear at his +execution. "Pearlin" was provided for him which cost £10 an ell. + +The close-fitting velvet cap, enriched with lace, appears in the +seventeenth century to have been adopted by the lawyers of the Scotch +courts. An example may be seen in the portrait of Sir Thomas Hope, Lord +Advocate of Scotland, who died in 1646, which hangs in the Hall of the +Advocates of Edinburgh. Another (Fig. 160) appears in the engraving of Sir +Alexander Gibson, Bart., Lord Durie, one of the Lords of Session, who died +two years previously. + +In 1672, when lace--"point lace made of {424}thread"--came under the ban of +the Covenanters, with a penalty of "500 merks toties quoties," the wearing +such vanities on liveries is strictly forbidden; servants, however, are +allowed to wear out their masters' and mistresses' old clothes. + +In 1674, his Majesty, understanding that the manufacture of "pearlin and +whyt lace made of thread (whereby many people gain their livelihood) was +thereby much prejudiced and impaired, declares that from henceforth it +shall be free to all and every person within this kingdom to wear 'whyt +lace,' as well as the privileged persons above mentioned." Finding these +exclusions of little or no avail, in January, 1685, the Act remits the +wearing of lace, both native and foreign, to all folks living. + +[Illustration: Fig. 160. + +SIR ALEXANDER GIBSON, BART. (Lord Durie, Lord of Session. + 1644.)] + +The dead now came under the scrutiny of the Scotch Parliament, who order +all lace or poynt, gold or silver, to be disused at interments, under the +penalty of 300 pounds Scots.[1197] + +From the united effects of poverty, Covenanters and {425}legislation, after +the departure of the court for England, luxury, small though it was, +declined in Edinburgh. + +It was not till 1680, when James II., as Duke of York, accompanied by Mary +of Modena and his "duteous" daughter Anne, visited the Scotch capital, that +anything like gaiety or dress can be said to have surprised the +strait-laced population. + +Dryden, sneering at the barbarism of the Scotch capital, writes, in the +prologue to a play delivered at Oxford, referring to a portion of the troop +that accompanied the court to Scotland-- + + "Laced linen there would be a dangerous thing; + It might perhaps a new rebellion bring-- + The Scot who wore it would be chosen king." + +The Highlander, however, when in full dress, did not disdain to adopt the +falling band and ruffles of guipure or Flanders lace. + +The advertisements and inventories of the first years of the eighteenth +century give us little reason to imagine any change had been effected in +the homely habits of the people. + +At the marriage of a daughter of Thomas Smythe, of Methuen, in 1701, to Sir +Thomas Moncrieffe, the bride had a head-suit and ruffles of cut-work which +cost nearly six pounds ten shillings.[1198] Few and scanty advertisements +of roups of "white thread lace" appear in the journals of the day.[1199] + +And in such a state matters continued till the Jacobites, {426}going and +coming from St. Germains, introduced French fashions and luxuries as yet +unheard of in the then aristocratic Canongate. + +It sounds strange to a traveller, as he wanders among these now deserted +closes of Edinburgh, to read of the gay doings and of the grand people who, +in the last century, dwelt within these poor-looking abodes. A difficult +matter it must have been to the Jacobite beauties, whose hoop (from 1725-8) +measured nine yards in circumference, to mount the narrow winding +staircases of their dwellings; and this very difficulty gave rise to a +luxury of underclothing almost unknown in England or elsewhere. Every lady +wore a petticoat trimmed with the richest point lace. Nor was it only the +jupe that was lace-trimmed. Besides + + "Twa lappets at her head, that flaunted gallantlie," + +ladies extended the luxury to finely-laced garters. + +In 1720 the bubble Company "for the trading in Flanders laces" appears +advertised in the Scotch papers in large and attractive letters. We +strongly doubt, however, it having gained any shareholders among the +prudent population of Edinburgh. + +The prohibition of lace made in the dominions of the French king[1200] was +a boon to the Jacobites, and many a lady, and gentleman too, became +wondrous loyal to the exiled family, bribed by a packet from St. Germains. +In the first year of George II., says the _Gazette_,[1201] a parcel of rich +lace was secretly brought to the Duke of Devonshire, by a mistake in the +similarity of the title. On being opened, hidden among the folds, was found +a miniature portrait of the Pretender, set round with large diamonds. The +packet was addressed to a noble lord high in office, one of the most +zealous converts to loyalty.[1202] + +{427}Smuggling was universal in Scotland in the reigns of George I. and +George II., for the people, unaccustomed to imposts, and regarding them as +an unjust aggression upon their ancient liberties, made no scruple to elude +the customs whenever it was possible so to do. + +It was smuggling that originated the Porteous riots of 1736; and in his +description of the excited mob, Sir Walter Scott makes Miss Grizel Dalmahoy +exclaim--"They have ta'en awa' our Parliament. They hae oppressed our +trade. Our gentles will hardly allow that a Scots needle can sew ruffles on +a sark or lace on an owerlay."[1203] + + + + +{428}CHAPTER XXXIV. + +LACE MANUFACTURES OF SCOTLAND. + + "Sae put on your pearlins, Marion, + And kirtle o' the cramasie."--Scottish Song. + + +During the treasonable year of 1745 Scotland was far too occupied with her +risings and executions to give much attention to her national industry. Up +to that time considerable pains had been taken to improve the spinning of +fine thread, prizes had been awarded, and the art taught in schools and +other charitable institutions. + +It was not till the middle of the eighteenth century that Anne, Duchess of +Hamilton, known to Society by tradition as "one of the beautiful Miss +Gunnings," seeing lace-makers at work when travelling on the Continent, +thought employment might be given to the women of her own country by +introducing the art into Scotland. The Duchess therefore brought over women +from France, and caused them to teach the girls in her schools how to make +"bunt lace," as it was termed. + +Sir John Sinclair thus notices the fabric:--"A small manufacture of thread +lace has long been carried on here. At an early period it was the +occupation of a good many women, but, from the fluctuation of fashion, it +has fallen greatly into disuse. Fashion again revived the demand, and the +late Duchess of Hamilton, afterwards of Argyle, found still some +lace-workers remaining, to whom her own demand, and that of those who +followed her example, gave employment. To these her Grace added twelve +orphan girls, who were clothed, maintained, and taught at her expense. +Others learned the art, and while the demand lasted, the manufacture +employed a good many hands. Though the number is again diminished, there +are still above forty at the business, who {429}make handsome laces of +different patterns, besides those who work occasionally for themselves or +their friends. Perhaps, under the patronage of the present respectable +duchess, the manufacture of Hamilton lace may again become as flourishing +as ever."[1204] + +"The Duchess of Hamilton," says the _Edinburgh Amusement_ of 1752, "has +ordered a home to be set up in Hamilton for the reception of twelve poor +girls and a mistress. The girls are to be taken in at the age of seven, +clothed, fed, taught to spin, make lace, etc., and dismissed at fourteen." + +The work of the fair Duchess throve, for, in 1754, we read how--"The +Duchess of Hamilton has now the pleasure to see the good effects of her +charity. Her Grace's small orphan family have, by spinning, gained a sum of +money, and lately presented the Duke and Duchess with a double piece of +Holland, and some suits of exceeding fine lace ruffles, of their own +manufacture, which their Graces did them the honour to wear on the Duke's +birthday, July 14, and which vied with anything worn on the occasion, +though there was a splendid company present. The yarn of which the ruffles +were made weighed only ten drops each hank."[1205] + +It was probably owing to the influence of this impulsive Irishwoman that, +in the year 1754, was founded The Select Society of Edinburgh for +encouraging the arts and manufactures of Scotland, headed by the Duke of +Hamilton. This society was contemporary with the Anti-Gallican in England +and the Dublin Society, though we believe, in this case, Dublin can claim +precedence over the capital of North Britain. + +At a meeting of the society it was moved that "The annual importation of +worked ruffles and of bone lace and edging into this country is +considerable. By proper encouragement we might be supplied at home with +these ornaments. It was therefore resolved-- + +"That a premium be assigned to all superior merit in such work; such a one +as may be a mark of respect to women of fashion, and may also be of some +solid advantage to those whose laudable industry contributes to their own +support. + +{430}"For the best imitation of Dresden work, or a pair of men's ruffles, a +prize of £5 5s. + +"For the best bone lace, not under twenty yards, £5 5s. The gainers of +these two best articles may have the money or a gold medal, at their +option." + +As may be supposed, the newly-founded fabric of the Duchess was not passed +over by a society of which the Duke himself was the patron. In the year +1757 we have among the prizes adjudged one of two guineas to Anne +Henderson, of Hamilton, "for the whitest and best and finest lace, commonly +called Hamilton lace, not under two yards." A prize had already been +offered in 1755,[1206] but, as stated the following year, "no lace was +given in." Prizes continued in 1758 and 1759 to be given for the produce of +Hamilton; in the last year to the value of four guineas.[1207] + +The early death of the Duke of Hamilton; and the second marriage of the +Duchess, did not in any way impede the progress of Hamilton lace, for, as +late as 1778, we read in Locke's _Essays on the Scotch Commerce_--"The lace +manufactory, under the patronage of the amiable Duchess of Hamilton (now +Argyle), goes on with success and spirit." + +With respect to the quality of this Hamilton lace, laudable as were the +efforts of the Duchess, she succeeded in producing but a very coarse +fabric. The specimens which have come under our notice are edgings of the +commonest description, of a coarse thread, always of the lozenge pattern +(Fig. 161); being strong and firm, it was used for nightcaps, never for +dresses, and justified the description of a lady who described it as of +little account, and spoke of it as "only Hamilton." + +It appears that the Edinburgh Society died a natural death about 1764, but, +notwithstanding the untimely demise of this patriotic club, a strong +impetus had been given to the {431}lace-makers of Scotland.[1208] +Lace-making was introduced into the schools, and, what was better far, many +daughters of the smaller gentry and scions of noble Jacobite houses, ruined +by the catastrophe of 1745, either added to their incomes or supported +themselves wholly by the making of the finer points. This custom seems to +have been general, and, in alluding to it, Mrs. Calderwood speaks of the +"helplessness" of the English women in comparison to the Scotch. + +In the journals of the day we have constant advertisements, informing the +public of the advantages to be gained by the useful arts imparted to their +offspring in their establishments, inserted by ladies of gentle blood--for +the Scotchwomen of the last century no more disdained to employ themselves +in the training of youth than does now a French dame de qualité to place +herself at the head of the Sacré-Coeur, or some other convent devoted to +educational purposes.[1209] + +[Illustration: Fig. 161. + +HAMILTON.] + +The entry of all foreign laces was excluded by law. The {432}Scotch nation +of the Hanoverian persuasion were wrath at the frivolity of the Jacobite +party. "£400,000 have been sent out of the country during the last year," +writes the _Edinburgh Advertiser_ of 1764, "to support our exiled +countrymen in France, where they learn nothing but folly and extravagance." +English laces were not included in the prohibition. In 1763, that "neat +shop near the Stinking Style, in the Lukenbooths," held by Mr. James +Baillie, advertises "Trollies, English laces, and pearl edgings." Four +years later, black silk lace and guipure are added to the stock, "mennuet," +and very cheap bone lace.[1210] + +Great efforts, and with success, were made for the improvement of the +thread manufacture, for the purchase of which article at Lille £200,000 +were annually sent from Scotland to France. Badly-spun yarn was seized and +burned by the stamp master; of this we have frequent mention.[1211] + +Peuchet, speaking of Scotland, says:--"Il s'est formé près d'Edinbourg une +manufacture de fil de dentelle. On prétend que le fil de cette manufacture +sert à faire des dentelles qui non-seulement égalent en beauté celles qui +sont fabriquées avec le fil de l'étranger, mais encore les surpassent en +durée. Cet avantage serait d'autant plus grand que l'importation de ce fil +de l'étranger occasionne aux habitans de ce royaume une perte annuelle de +£100,000."[1212] + +Whether about the year 1775 any change had taken place in the legislation +of the customs of Scotland, and they had become regulated by English law, +we cannot say, but suddenly constant advertisements of Brussels lace and +fine point appear in the _Gazette_, and this at the very time Loch {433}was +doing his best to stir up once more Scotch patriotism with regard to +manufactures.[1213] + +The Scotch Foresters set the example at their meeting in 1766, and then--we +hear nothing more on the matter. + +The _Weekly Magazine_ of 1776 strongly recommends the art of lace-making as +one calculated to flourish in Scotland, young girls beginning to learn at +eight years of age, adding: "The directors of the hospital of Glasgow have +already sent twenty-three girls to be taught by Madame Puteau,[1214] a +native of Lisle, now residing at Renfrew; you will find the lace of Renfrew +cheaper, as good and as neat as those imported from Brussels, Lisle, and +Antwerp." David Loch also mentions the success of the young Glasgow +lace-makers, who made lace, he says, from 10d. to 4s. 6d. per yard. He +adds: "It is a pleasure to see them at work. I saw them ten days ago." He +recommends the managers of the Workhouse of the Canongate to adopt the same +plan: adding, they need not send to Glasgow for teachers, as there are +plenty at the Orphan Hospital at Edinburgh capable of undertaking the +office. Of the lace fabricated at Glasgow we know nothing, save from an +advertisement in the _Caledonian Mercury_ of 1778, where one William Smith, +"Lace-maker," at the Greenhead, Glasgow, informs the public he has for some +years "made and bleached candlewicks." Anderson and Loch did not agree on +the subject of lace-making, the former considering it an unstable fabric, +too easily affected by the caprices of fashion.[1215] + +{434}Be that as it may, the manufacture of thread for lace alone employed +five hundred machines, each machine occupying thirty-six persons: the value +of the thread produced annually £175,000. Loch adds, that in consequence of +the cheapness of provisions, Scotland, as a country, is better adapted to +lace-making than England. In consequence of Loch's remarks, his Majesty's +Board of Trustees for the Fisheries and Manufactures, after asking a number +of questions, determined to give proper encouragement and have mistresses +for teaching the different kinds of lace made in England and France, and +oblige them to take girls of the poorer class, some from the hospitals, and +the mistress for five years to have the benefit of their work. A girl might +earn from 10d. to 1s. per day. They gave a salary to an experienced person +from Lisle for the purpose of teaching the making of thread; his wife to +instruct in lace-making. With the records of 1788 end all mention of +lace-making in Scotland.[1216] + + + + +{435}CHAPTER XXXV. + +IRELAND. + + "The undoubted aptitude for lace-making of the women of + Ireland."--_Juror's Report, International Exhibition._ 1862. + + "It is peculiarly interesting to note the various foreign influences + which have done their part in the creation of Irish lace. Italian and + Flemish, Greek, French and English, all have lent their aid."--A. Loyd. + _The Queen_, Feb. 6th, 1897. + +Little is known of the early state of manufactures in Ireland, save that +the art of needlework was held in high estimation. + +By the sumptuary laws of King Mogha Nuadhad, killed at the Battle of +Maylean, A.D. 192, we learn that the value of a queen's raiment, should she +bring a suitable dowry, ought to amount to the cost of six cows; but of +what the said raiment consisted history is dark. + +The same record, however, informs us that the price of a mantle, wrought +with the needle, should be "a young bullock or steer."[1217] This hooded +mantle is described by Giraldus Cambrensis as composed of various pieces of +cloth, striped, and worked in squares by the needle; maybe a species of +cut-work. + +Morgan, who wrote in 1588, declares the saffron-tinted shirts of the Irish +to contain from twenty to thirty ells of linen. No wonder they are +described-- + + "With pleates on pleates they pleated are, + As thick as pleates may lie."[1218] + +It was in such guise the Irish appeared at court before Queen +Elizabeth,[1219] and from them the yellow starch of Mrs. Turner may have +derived its origin. The Irish, however, {436}produced the dye not from +saffron, but from a lichen gathered on the rocks. Be that as it may, the +Government prohibited its use, and the shirts were reduced in quantity to +six ells,[1220] for the making of which "new-fangled pair of Gally-cushes," +_i.e._, English shirts, as we find by the Corporation Book of Kilkenny +(1537), eighteenpence was charged if done with silk or cut-work. Ninepence +extra was charged for every ounce of silk worked in. + +An Irish smock wrought with silk and gold was considered an object worthy +of a king's wardrobe, as the inventory of King Edward IV.[1221] +attests:--"Item, one Irishe smocke wrought with gold and silke." + +The Rebellion at an end, a friendly intercourse, as regards fashion, was +kept up between the English and the Irish. The ruff of geometric design, +falling band, and cravat of Flanders lace, all appeared in due succession. +The Irish, always lovers of pomp and show, early used lace at the +interments of the great, as appears from an anecdote related in a letter of +Mr. O'Halloran:--"The late Lord Glandore told me," he writes, "that when a +boy, under a spacious tomb in the ruined monastery at his seat, Ardfert +Abbey (Co. Kerry), he perceived something white. He drew it forth, and it +proved to be a shroud of Flanders lace, the covering of some person long +deceased." + +In the beginning of the eighteenth century a patriotic feeling arose among +the Irish, who joined hand in hand to encourage the productions of their +own country. Swift was among the first to support the movement, and in a +prologue he composed, in 1721, to a play acted for the benefit of the Irish +weavers, he says:-- + + "Since waiting-women, like exacting jades, + Hold up the prices of their old brocades, + We'll dress in manufactures made at home." + +PLATE XC. + +[Illustration: IRISH, YOUGHAL.--Needle-point fan mount, made at the +Presentation Convent, Youghal, for H.R.H. Princess Maud of Wales on her +marriage, 1896. Width in centre 8½ in. + +Photo in Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 436._ + +{437}Shortly afterwards, at a meeting, he proposed the following +resolution:-- + +"That the ladies wear Irish manufactures. There is brought annually into +this kingdom near £90,000 worth of silk, whereof the greater part is +manufactured; £30,000 more is expended in muslin, holland, cambric, and +calico. What the price of lace amounts to is not easy to be collected from +the Custom-house book, being a kind of goods that, taking up little room, +is easily run; but, considering the prodigious price of a woman's +head-dress at ten, twelve, twenty pounds a yard, it must be very great." + +Though a club of patriots had been formed in Ireland since the beginning of +the eighteenth century, called the Dublin Society, they were not +incorporated by charter until the year 1749; hence many of their records +are lost, and we are unable to ascertain the precise period at which they +took upon themselves the encouragement of the bone lace trade in Ireland. +From their _Transactions_ we learn that, so early as the year 1743, the +annual value of the bone lace manufactured by the children of the +workhouses of the city of Dublin amounted to £164 14s. 10½d.[1222] In +consequence of this success, the society ordain that £34 2s. 6d. be given +to the Lady Arabella Denny to distribute among the children, for their +encouragement in making bone lace. Indeed, to such a pitch were the +productions of the needle already brought in Ireland, that in the same +year, 1743, the Dublin Society gave Robert Baker, of Rollin Street, Dublin, +a prize of £10 for his imitation of Brussels lace ruffles, which are +described as being most exquisite both in design and workmanship. This +Brussels lace of Irish growth was much prized by the patriots.[1223] From +this time the Dublin Society acted under their good genius, the Lady +Arabella Denny. The prizes they awarded were liberal, and success attended +their efforts. + +In 1755 we find a prize of £2 15s. 6d. awarded to {438}Susanna Hunt, of +Fishamble Street, aged eleven, for a piece of lace most extraordinarily +well wrought. Miss Elinor Brereton, of Raheenduff, Queen's County, for the +best imitation of Brussels lace with the needle, £7. On the same occasion +Miss Martha M'Cullow, of Cork Bridge, gains the prize of £5 for "Dresden +point." Miss Mary Gibson has £2 for "Cheyne Lace,"[1224] of which we have +scarcely heard mention since the days of Queen Elizabeth. + +Bone lace had never in any quantity been imported from England. In 1703 but +2,333 yards, valuing only £116 13s., or 1s. per yard, passed through the +Irish Custom House. Ireland, like the rest of the United Kingdom, received +her points either from France or Flanders. + +The thread used in the Irish fabric was derived from Hamburg, of which, in +1765, 2,573 lbs. were imported. + +It was in this same year the Irish club of young gentlemen refused, by +unanimous consent, to toast or consider beautiful any lady who should wear +French lace or indulge in foreign fopperies. + +During the two succeeding years the lace of various kinds exhibited by the +workhouse children was greatly approved of, and the thanks of the Society +offered to the Lady Arabella Denny.[1225] + +Prizes given to the children, to the amount of £34 2s. 6d.; the same for +bone lace made by other manufacturers; and one half the sum is also to be +applied to "thread lace made with knitting needles." + +A certain Mrs. Rachel Armstrong, of Inistioge (Co. Kilkenny), is also +awarded a prize of £11 7s. 6d. "for having caused a considerable quantity +of bone lace to be made by girls whom she has instructed and employed in +the work." Among the premiums granted to "poor gentlewomen" we find: To +Miss Jane Knox, for an apron of elegant pattern and curiously wrought, £6 +16s. 6d., and silver medals to two ladies who, we suppose, are above +{439}receiving money as a reward. The Society recommend that the bone lace +made be exposed for sale in the warehouses of the Irish Silk Company. In +consequence of the emulation excited among all classes, advertisements +appear in the _Dublin News_ of ladies "very capable of instructing young +misses in fine lace-making, needlework point, broderie en tambour, all in +the genteelest taste." + +Lady Arabella stood not alone as a patroness of the art. In 1770 we read +how "a considerable quantity of bone lace of extraordinary fineness and +elegance of pattern, made at Castlebar in the Co. of Mayo, being produced +to the Society, and it appearing that the manufacture of bone lace was +founded, and is at present supported there by Lady Bingham, it was ordered +that the sum of £25 be paid into the hands of her ladyship, to be disposed +of in such encouragements as she shall judge will most effectually conduce +to the carrying on and improvement of the said manufacture at Castlebar." +The thanks of the Society are at the same time voted to her ladyship. In +consequence of the large quantity fabricated, after the lapse of a few +years the Society, in 1773, found themselves compelled to put some bounds +to their liberality. No prizes are given for any lace exhibited at less +than 11s. 4½d. the yard, and that only to those not resident in the city of +Dublin or within five miles of it. Twenty per cent. will be given on the +value of the lace, provided it shall not exceed £500 in value. The Society +do not, however, withdraw the annual premium of £30 for the products of the +"famishing children" of the city of Dublin workhouse,[1226] always directed +by the indefatigable Lady Arabella Denny.[1227] From that period we hear no +more of the Dublin Society and its prizes awarded for point, Dresden, +Brussels, or bone lace. + +The manufacture of gold and silver lace having met with considerable +success, the Irish Parliament, in 1778, gave it their protection by passing +an Act prohibiting the entry of all such commodities either from England or +foreign parts. + +{440}And now for forty years and more history is silent on the subject of +lace-making by the "famishing children" of the Emerald Isle.[1228] + +No existing Irish lace industry is as old as the appliqué lace which has +been made in the neighbourhood of Carrickmacross since the year 1820. The +process of its manufacture is simple enough, for the pattern is cut from +cambric and applied to net with point stitches. Many accounts have been +given of its origin. Some assign its genesis to India or to Persia, while +the Florentine historian, Vasari, claims the artist Botticelli as its +inventor. In any case, there can be no doubt that vast quantities were +produced in Italy from the thirteenth to the seventeenth centuries. Such a +specimen it was that Mrs. Grey Porter, wife of the then rector of +Dunnamoyne, taught her servant, Anne Steadman, to copy, and also spread the +art amongst the peasant women in the neighbourhood with such success that +Miss Reid, of Rahans, gathered together the young women round Culloville +and taught them to make lace on the same model. The girls flocked in from +the surrounding districts to learn the work. It was, however, only +dependent on private orders, and gradually suffered from over-production, +and threatened to die out, until it was revived after the great famine of +1846. By Mr. Tristram Kennedy, the manager of the Bath estate, and Captain +Morant, the agent of the Shirley estate, a vacant house was turned into a +school, and this gave rise to the Bath and Shirley School, which has done +so much to hand down this industry to the present day. Some samples of +Brussels and guipure lace were brought to the school, where the teacher had +them remodelled and placed in the hands of the best workers: and +Carrickmacross became identified with some of the finest "guipure" that +Ireland has produced.[1229] + +In the year 1829 the manufacture of Limerick tambour lace was first +established in Ireland. Tambour work is of Eastern origin, and was known in +China, Persia, India and {441}Turkey long before it spread to the United +Kingdom. This work is still extensively carried on in the East, where it is +much appreciated for its varied colours, as well as the labour expended +upon it. Until the middle of the last century, tambour lace was unknown in +Europe, with the exception of Turkey. It was about that time it was +introduced into Saxony and Switzerland, but the knowledge of the art of +making the lace did not reach England until 1820. Lace, in the strictest +sense of the word, it cannot be termed. It is called tambour from the fact +that the frame on which it is worked bears some resemblance to a drum-head +or tambourine. On this is stretched a piece of Brussels or Nottingham net. +A floss thread or cotton is then drawn by a hooked or tambour needle +through the meshes of the net, and the design formed from a paper drawing +which is placed before the worker. _Run_ lace is of a finer and lighter +character. The pattern is formed on the net with finer thread, which is not +drawn in with the tambour, but run in with the point needle. (This +description of lace was made in Nottinghamshire during the eighteenth +century, and appears to have been copied from foreign designs, chiefly from +those of Lille.) It came into fashion after Nottingham machine net had made +the work possible, and is still called by old people Nottingham lace. This +fabric was first introduced into Ireland by one Charles Walker,[1230] a +native of Oxfordshire, who brought over twenty-four girls as teachers, and +commenced manufacturing at a place in Limerick called Mount Kennet. His +goods were made entirely for one house in St. Paul's Churchyard, until that +house became bankrupt in 1834, after which a traveller was sent through +England, Scotland and Ireland to take orders. Her Excellency Lady Normanby, +wife of the Lord Lieutenant, gave great encouragement to the fabric, +causing dresses to be made, not only for herself, but also for Her Majesty +the Queen of the {442}Belgians, and the Grand Duchess of Baden. The +subsequent history of Limerick laces bears a close resemblance to that of +the other Irish lace industries. Mr. Charles Walker died in 1842. Many of +his workers returned to England;[1231] the stimulus of constant supervision +was gone; old designs deteriorated from inferior copying, and new designs +were not forthcoming. It was mainly due to the Convent of the Good Shepherd +that this lace industry was saved from absolute extinction. Mrs. R. V. +O'Brien has, however, done valuable service in its revival by her energy in +establishing and maintaining the Limerick lace training school, which may +be said to owe its origin to a lecture delivered by Mr. Alan S. Cole at the +Limerick Chamber of Commerce in September, 1888, where photographs of +ancient and modern lace and a loan collection of Limerick lace was shown. +In this collection the work of the early days of Limerick, when the design +was of the highest order, was contrasted with the more modern +specimens.[1232] + +The first attempt to adapt the point de Venise to the necessities of the +Irish people was made at Tynan, in Co. Armagh, on the borders of Tyrone. +Mrs. Maclean, the wife of the Rev. William Maclean, then rector of the +parish, was the owner of some old point de Venise, and she resolved to turn +her collection to some practical use. The lace was examined and +re-examined, until the secret workings underlying every stitch, every +picot, every filling, and every relief, had been grasped and understood. +Steps were taken in 1849 to teach the people this industry, and by 1851 a +handsome flounce was ready, which was purchased by Lord John George +Beresford, then Archbishop of Armagh and Primate of Ireland. It was +exhibited at the great exhibition of that year in London, and attracted a +large amount of attention, and brought many orders in its train. The +business was thus considerably extended and enlarged, and the Primate and +his nieces, Mrs. Eden and Mrs. Dunbar, did all they could to promote the +sale of the work. The good fortune and prosperity of Tynan was, however, +but of a temporary character. The Rev. William Maclean died in 1865, and, +with his death, the local industry died out from want of supervision and +organisation. + +PLATE XCI. + +[Illustration: IRISH, CARRICKMACROSS. INSERTION AND BORDER OF APPLIQUÉ +LACE, made at the Bath and Shirley Schools. End of nineteenth century. +Width of insertion, 6 in.; border, 9¼ in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +PLATE XCII. + +[Illustration: IRISH. LIMERICK LACE. TAMBOUR EMBROIDERY ON NET, made at +Kinsale. End of nineteenth century. Width, 17 in. + +Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 442._ + +{443}Irish point[1233] also owes its genesis to the failure of the potato +crop in 1846, and its original inspiration was given by a piece of point de +Milan which fell into the hands of Mother Mary Ann Smith, of the +Presentation Convent at Youghal, Co. Cork. She there conceived the idea of +setting up an industry for the children attending the convent school. She +studied the lace which had come into her possession, examined the process +by which it had been made, unravelled the threads one by one, and at last +succeeded in mastering its many details. She then selected some of the +convent children who had shown a taste for fine needlework, and taught them +separately what she herself learned. The convent school was opened in 1852. +The main characteristic of this lace is that it is worked entirely with the +needle. + +Though Irish point lace owes its origin to Youghal Convent, its workers +have done much to spread their art in other parts of Ireland, and in few +districts more effectually than in the neighbourhood of Kenmare, Co. Kerry, +where the late Mother Abbess O'Hagan introduced the industry into the +Convent of the Poor Clares in 1861. The work is {444}based upon the same +lines, though the Kenmare work claims as its speciality that it is entirely +worked in linen thread, while at Youghal cotton is occasionally used. The +Convent of the Poor Clares devote themselves chiefly to the production of +flat point, appliqué, and guipure laces. Many other convents and lace +centres in Ireland have had their teachers from Youghal and Kenmare. Flat +point has been made for fifty years under the supervision of the Carmelite +convent at New Ross, Co. Wexford, though the workers are now better known +for their adaptation of Venetian rose point and the perfection to which +they have brought their crochet than for their plain Irish point. For the +first ten years the Carmelite nuns confined their attention to cut-work, +flat point, and net lace. As the workers grew more expert, a heavy rose +point was introduced. This style proved too heavy for the fashion; hence it +was that, in 1865, the nuns turned their attention to finer work. + +It was about that time that a travelling Jewish pedlar called at the +convent with a miscellaneous assortment of antique vestments, old books, +and other curiosities, among which were some broken pieces of old rose +point lace. The then Prioress, the late Mother Augustine Dalton, purchased +the specimens from the Jew, as she realised that they would give her the +opportunity she wanted of varying the quality of the lace, and making the +design finer and lighter in the future than it had been in the past. For +weeks and for months she devoted herself to the task of ripping up +portions, stitch by stitch, until she had mastered every detail. From this +time dates the production of that fine rose point for which the convent at +New Ross has deservedly earned so high a reputation. This rose point has +gone on increasing in fineness of quality and in beauty of design. The +defects in the earlier specimens were mainly due to the want of artistic +culture in the girls, who could neither appreciate nor render the graceful +sweeps and curves, nor the branching stems. + +Irish crochet is another widespread national industry. Its main centres +have been Cork in the South and Monaghan in the North of Ireland. The +industry can be traced as far back as 1845, when the sisters of the +Ursuline convent at Blackrock, Co. Cork, received £90 for the work done by +the poor children in their schools. It may indeed be said that {445}the +growth of this great industry spread from this centre; so much so, that +within the space of a few years it formed part of the educational system of +almost every convent in the land, and spread from the southern shores of +Co. Cork to Wexford, to Monaghan and to Sligo. + +Cork City was itself the natural centre of the industry, which extended so +far and wide through the country that some thirty years ago there were no +less than 12,000 women in the neighbourhood of Cork engaged in making +crochet, lace collars, and edgings after Spanish and Venetian patterns. On +the outbreak of the Franco-German war a further impetus was given to the +industry, when the supply of Continental laces was cut off. Several years +of unique prosperity followed, until the competition of the machine-made +work of Nottingham and Switzerland ousted the Irish crochet from the +market. At the present there has been a reaction against the usurpation by +machinery of the place that art ought to occupy, and the Cork work is now +once more coming to the fore. + +As Cork has been the centre on the South, so is Clones in the North, and +yet the industry which has for so many years done so much for the people of +Monaghan owes its origin to the philanthropic efforts of Mrs. W. C. +Roberts, of Thornton, Co. Kildare, who helped the poor to ward off the +worst attacks of the famine of 1847 by the production of guipure and point +de Venise crochet. After a few years of prosperity, the industry languished +and disappeared from the neighbourhood, but twenty-four of the best-trained +and most efficient of Mrs. Roberts's workers were sent out to other +centres. One of these came to Mrs. Hand, the wife of the then Rector of +Clones. This parish is the biggest in the county, and the poor from the +surrounding mountains flocked down to learn the crochet; and knotted and +lifted as well as ordinary guipure, Greek and Spanish, and also Jesuit +lace[1234] has been produced with the crochet-needle in Clones, which still +continues to be the most important centre of the industry. + +At the Killarney Presentation Convent at Newton Barry,[1235] and Cappoquin, +drawn linen work in the style of {446}the Italian reticella, and at +Parsonstown pillow laces of the same character as Honiton are made. In +Ardee, a novel lace is made with braid and cord.[1236] + +The rose point lace is often called "Innishmacsaint" from the village in +the county of Fermanagh where the industry was transplanted on the death of +the Rev. W. Maclean, of Tynan, by his daughter, who went to live with her +sister, Mrs. George Tottenham, the wife of the rector. What was Tynan's +misfortune proved a boon to Innishmacsaint, and it became the chief centre +of the Irish rose point industry. Both the heavier and finer kinds are made +there. As at Tynan, the art of making the lace has been learnt by the +unravelling and close examination of Venetian point. + +As in English work, some of the Irish is spoilt by the woolly cotton +thread. Foreign lace likewise in these days suffers from the same fault. +The workmanship at the present time can be so good that every effort ought +to be made to use only fine silky linen thread. In Ireland, where flax can +be grown, there should be no excuse for employing any other. + +PLATE XCIII. + +[Illustration: IRISH. CROCHET LACE.--End of nineteenth century. Width of +cuff, 5 in.; length of plastron, 12 in. Victoria and Albert Museum.] + +_To face page 446._ + + + + +{447}CHAPTER XXXVI. + +BOBBIN NET AND MACHINE-MADE LACE. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 162. + +ARMS OF THE FRAME-WORK KNITTERS' COMPANY.] + + +BOBBIN NET. + +A sketch of the history of lace would be incomplete without a few words on +bobbin net and machine lace, manufactures which have risen to so much +importance both in England and France, and have placed lace within the +reach of all classes of society. The subject has been so ably treated by +Mr. Felkin that we refer our readers to his excellent work for its full +history.[1237] + +This manufacture has its epochs:-- + +1768. Net first made by machinery. + +1809. Invention of bobbin net. + +1837. The Jacquard system applied to the bobbin net machine. + +It has been already told how Barbara Uttmann made a plain thread net in +Germany three centuries before any attempt was made to produce it by +machinery.[1238] + +This invention is usually assigned to Hammond, a stocking framework knitter +of Nottingham, who, examining one day the broad lace on his wife's cap, +thought he could {448}apply his machine to the production of a similar +article.[1239] His attempt so far succeeded that, by means of the +stocking-frame invented the previous century,[1240] he produced, 1768, not +lace, but a kind of knitting, of running loops or stitches, like that +afterwards known as "Brussels ground." In 1777, Else and Harvey introduced +at Nottingham the "pin" or point net machine, so named because made on +sharp pins or points. "Point net" was afterwards improved, and the +"barleycorn" introduced: "square" and "spider net" appear in succession. + +But with all these improvements machinery had not yet arrived at producing +a solid net, it was still only knitting, a single thread passing from one +end of the frame to the other; and if a thread broke the work was +unravelled; the threads, therefore, required to be gummed together, to give +stiffness and solidity to the net. To remedy this evil, the warp or chain +machine was invented, uniting the knitter's and the weaver's mechanism. +Vandyke,[1241] a Flemish workman, and three Englishmen dispute the +invention. This new machine was again improved and made "Mechlin net," from +which the machine took its name. + +For forty years from Hammond's first attempt on the stocking-frame, endless +efforts were made to arrive at imitating the ground of pillow lace, and +there are few manufactures in which so much capital has been expended, and +so much invention called forth. Each projector fancied {449}he had +discovered the true stitch, and patents after patents were taken out, +resulting mostly in disappointment. + +The machine for making "bobbin" net was invented by John Heathcoat, son of +a farmer at Longwhatton (Leicestershire). After serving his apprenticeship +he settled at Nottingham, and while occupied in putting together stocking +and net machines, gave his attention to improving the Mechlin net +frame.[1242] In 1809, in conjunction with Mr. Lacy, he took out a patent +for fourteen years for his new and highly ingenious bobbin net machine, +which he called Old Loughborough, after the town to which he then removed. + +"Bobbin net" was so named because the threads are wound upon bobbins.[1243] +It was "twisted" instead of "looped" net. Heathcoat began by making net +little more than an inch in width,[1244] and afterwards succeeded in +producing it a yard wide. There are now machines which make it three yards +and a half in width.[1245] + +In 1811 that vandal association called the Luddites[1246] entered his +manufactory and destroyed twenty-seven of his machines, of the value of +£8,000. Indignant at their conduct he removed to Tiverton,[1247] in +Devonshire. + +{450}In 1818 the first power machines were put to work, and the year 1823 +is memorable for the "bobbin net fever." Mr. Heathcoat's patent having +expired, all Nottingham went mad. Everyone wished to make bobbin net. +Numerous individuals, clergymen, lawyers, doctors, and others, readily +embarked capital in so tempting a speculation. Prices fell in proportion as +production increased; but the demand was immense, and the Nottingham lace +frame became the organ of general supply, rivalling and supplanting in +plain nets the most finished productions of France and the +Netherlands.[1248] Dr. Ure says: "It was no uncommon thing for an artisan +to leave his usual calling and betake himself to a lace frame, of which he +was part proprietor, and realize, by working upon it, twenty, thirty, nay, +even forty shillings a day. In consequence of such wonderful gains, +Nottingham, with Loughborough and the adjoining villages, became the scene +of an epidemic mania. Many, though nearly void of mechanical genius or the +constructive talent, tormented themselves night and day with projects of +bobbins, pushers, lockers, point-bars, and needles of every various form, +till their minds got permanently bewildered. Several lost their senses +altogether, and some, after cherishing visions of wealth as in the olden +time of alchemy, finding their schemes abortive, sank into despair and +committed suicide." Such is the history of the bobbin net[1249] invention +in England.[1250] + +{451}We now pass on to + + +FRANCE. + + "To the great trading nation, to the great manufacturing nation, no + progress which any portion of the human race can make in knowledge, in + taste for the conveniences of life, or in the wealth by which these + conveniences are produced, can be matter of indifference."--Macaulay. + +Since the failure[1251] of Lee, in 1610, to introduce the stocking-frame +into France, that country remained ignorant of a manufacture which was +daily progressing in England, on whom she was dependent for stockings and +for net. + +In 1778 Caillen attempted a kind of net "tricot dentelle," for which he +obtained a gratuity from the Academy of £40, but his method did not +succeed; it was, like the first efforts of our countrymen, only knitting. + +In 1784 Louis XVI. sent the Duke de Liancourt to England to study the +improvements in the stocking and net machinery, and to bring back a frame. +He was accompanied by Rhumbolt, who worked in a manufactory at Nottingham, +and having acquired the art, returned to France. Monarchy had fallen, but +the French Republic, 1793-4, granted Rhumbolt the sum of 110,000 francs +(£4,400). The machine he brought with him was the point net.[1252] + +The cessation of all commercial intercourse prevented France from keeping +pace with the improvements making in England; yet, singularly enough, at +the beginning of the nineteenth century more net was manufactured in France +than in England. At the time of the Peace of Amiens (1802) there were 2,000 +frames in Lyons and Nîmes, while there were scarcely 1,200 in England; but +the superiority of the English net was incontestable, so, to protect the +national manufacture, Napoleon prohibited the importation. This of course +increased its demand; the net was in request in proportion as it was +prohibited. The best mart for Nottingham was the French market, so the +Nottingham net trade took every means to pass their produce into France. + +{452}Hayne, one of the proprietors of the "barley-corn" net, had gone to +Paris to make arrangements for smuggling it over, when the war broke out, +and he was detained. Napoleon proposed that he should set up a machine in +France; but he preferred continuing his illicit trade, which he carried on +with great success until 1809, when his own agent informed against him, his +goods were seized and burned, and having in one seizure lost £60,000 +(1,500,000 fr.), he was completely ruined, and fled to England.[1253] + +The French manufacturers took out various patents for the improvement of +their "Mechlin" machines, and one was taken, in 1809, for making a crossed +net called "fond de glace"; but the same year Heathcoat producing the +bobbin net machine, the inventors could not sustain the competition. + +Every attempt was made to get over bobbin net machines; but the export of +English machinery was punished by transportation, and the Nottingham +manufacturers established at their own expense a line of surveillance to +prevent the bobbin net machines from going out. In spite of all these +precautions, Cutts, an old workman of Heathcoat's, contrived to elude their +vigilance, and, in 1815, to import a machine to Valenciennes, whence he +removed it to Douai, where he entered into partnership with M. Thomassin. +In 1816 they produced the first bobbin net dress made in France. It was +embroidered by hand by a workwoman of Douai, and presented by the makers to +the Duchesse d'Angoulême. About the end of the year 1816 James Clark +introduced a machine into Calais, which he passed in pieces by means of +some French sailors. These two were the first bobbin net machines set up in +France. + +It is not within our limits to follow the Calais lace manufacturers through +their progress; suffice it to say that it was in 1817 that the first bobbin +net machine worked, concealed from all eyes, at Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais, +now, if not the rival of Nottingham, at least the great {453}centre of the +bobbin net and machinery lace manufactures in France.[1254] + +St. Quentin, Douai, Cambrai, Rouen, Caen, have all in turn been the seats +of the tulle manufacture. Some of these fabrics are extinct; the others +have a very limited trade compared with Saint-Pierre and Lyons. + +At Lyons silk net is mostly made.[1255] Dating from 1791, various patents +have been taken out for its manufacture. These silk nets were embroidered +at Condrieu (Rhône), and were (the black especially for veils and mantles) +much esteemed, particularly in Spain. + +In 1825 the "tulle bobine grenadine," black and white, was brought out by +M. Doguin, who afterwards used the fine silks, and invented that popular +material first called "zephyr," since "illusion." His son, in 1838, brought +out the "tulle Bruxelles." + + +BELGIUM. + +In 1834[1256] eight bobbin net machines were set up in Brussels by Mr. +Washer, for the purpose of making the double and triple twisted net, upon +which the pillow flowers are sewn to produce the Brussels application lace. +Mr. Washer devoted himself exclusively to the making of the extra fine +mesh, training up workmen specially to this minute work. In a few years he +succeeded in excelling the English manufacture; and this net, universally +known as "Brussels net," has nearly superseded the expensive pillow ground, +and has thereby materially decreased the price of Brussels lace. It is made +of English cotton, stated, in the specimens exhibited in 1867, as costing +£44 per pound. + + +{454}MACHINERY LACE. + + "Qui sait si le métier à tulle ne sera pas un jour, en quelque sorte, un + vrai coussin de dentellière, et les bobines de véritables fuseaux + manoeuvrés par des mains mécaniques."--Aubry, in 1851. + +If England boasts the invention of bobbin net, to France must be assigned +the application of the Jacquard system to the net-frame, and consequently +the invention of machinery lace. Shawls and large pieces in "run lace," as +it is termed, had previously been made after this manner at Nottingham and +Derby. The pattern proposed to be "run in" is printed by means of engraved +wood blocks on the ground, which, if white, is of cotton; if black, of +silk. The ground is stretched on a frame; the "lace-runner" places her left +hand under the net, and with the right works the pattern. The filling up of +the interior is termed either "fining" or "open-working," as the original +meshes of the net are brought to a smaller or larger size by the +needle.[1257] + +In 1820 Symes, of Nottingham, invented a pattern which he called "Grecian" +net. This was followed by the "spot," or "point d'esprit," and various +other fancy nets--bullet-hole, tattings, and others. + +The Jacquard system had been used at Lyons with the Mechlin frame in 1823-4 +for making patterned net and embroidered blondes. This suggested the +possibility of applying the Jacquard cards to making lace, and in 1836 to +1838 Mr. Ferguson,[1258] by applying it to the circular bobbin net frame, +brought out the black silk net called "dentelle de Cambrai," an imitation +of Chantilly. The pattern was woven by the machine, the brodé or relief +"run in." + +Various patents[1259] were immediately taken out in England and France. +Nottingham and Saint-Pierre-lez-Calais rival {455}each other in the variety +of their productions. At the International Exhibition of 1867 Nottingham +exhibited Spanish laces, most faithful copies of the costly pillow-made +Barcelona; imitations of Mechlin, the brodé and picot executed by hand; +Brussels needle-point; Caen blondes, and Valenciennes rivalling those of +Calais; also Cluny and the black laces of Chantilly and Mirecourt. + +The French, by adopting what is technically termed eight "motives," produce +their lace of a finer make and more complex pattern. The Calais lace is an +admirable copy of the square-grounded Valenciennes, and is the staple trade +of the manufacture. Calais also produces blondes, black and white, silver +and gold, the white nearly approaching in brilliancy and whiteness the +famed productions of Caen, which, by their cheapness, they have expelled +from competition. She also imitates the woollen laces of Le Puy, together +with black and white laces innumerable. + +"Broadly speaking, lace-making by machinery is more nearly like the pillow +lace-making process than that of needle-point. The machine continues to +twist any desired threads around one another. In pillow lace-making, +besides twisting, we have plaiting, and this plaiting has not been +reproduced by the majority of lace machines. Quite recently, however, a +French machine, called the 'Dentellière,' has been invented to do the +plaiting. A description of this machine has been published in _La Nature_ +(March 3rd, 1881). + +"Whilst the ordinary lace-making machine belongs to the family of weaving +machines, the Dentellière more nearly resembles the pillow of a lace-worker +with the threads arranged over the pillow. In general appearance it looks +something like a large semicircular frame-work of iron--with thousands of +threads from the outer semicircle converging to the centre, representing +the table or pillow. Over this central table is the apparatus which holds +the end threads side by side, and which regulates the plaiting of them. The +cost of producing lace in this manner is said to be greater at present than +by hand."[1260] + +{456}Almost every description of lace is now fabricated by machinery;[1261] +and it is often no easy task, even for a practised eye, to detect the +difference. Still, we must ever be of opinion that the most finished +productions of the frame never possess the touch, the finish, or the beauty +of the laces made by hand. The invention of machine-made lace has this +peculiarity--it has not diminished the demand for the finer fabrics of the +pillow and the needle. On the contrary, the rich have sought more eagerly +than ever the exquisite works of Brussels and Alençon, since machinery has +brought the wearing of lace within the reach of all classes of society. + +[Illustration: Fig. 163. + +THE LAGETTA, OR LACE-BARK TREE.] + +The inner bark of the Lagetta, or Lace-bark tree[1262] of Jamaica, may be +separated into thin layers, and then into distinct meshes, bearing some +resemblance to lace (Fig. 163). Of this material a cravat and ruffles were +presented to King Charles II. by the Governor of Jamaica; and at the +Exhibition of 1851 a dress of the same fibre was presented to Queen +Victoria, which her Majesty was graciously pleased to accept. + +{457}Caterpillars have been made to spin lace veils by the ingenious +contrivance of a gentleman of Munich.[1263] These veils are not strong, but +surprisingly light--one, a yard square, would scarcely weigh five grains, +whilst a patent net veil of the same size weighs 262. + +Asbestos has also been woven into lace: and a specimen of this mineral lace +is, we have been told, in the Cabinet of Natural History at the Garden of +Plants, Paris. + +{459}APPENDIX. + + + _The Notes marked with an * show that the works referred to have been + examined by the Author._[1264] + + + 1. + + [Sidenote: 1527. _Cologne. P. Quentell._] + + Eyn new kunstlich boich, dair yn. C. vnd. xxxviij. figuren, monster ad' + stalen befonden, wie man na der rechter art, Lauffer werck, Spansche + stich, mit der nälen, vort vp der Ramen, vnd vp der laden, borden + wirckenn sall, wilche stalen all etzo samen verbessert synt, vnd vyl + kunstlicher gemacht, d[=a] dye eirsten, &c. Sere nutzlich allen wapen + sticker, frauwen, ionfferen, vnd met ger, dair uns solch kunst lichtlich + tzu leren. + + D Gedruckt tzu Collen vp dem Doemhoff dwrch Peter Quentell. + + Anno. M. D. XXXVJJ.[1265] + + Small 8vo, 22 ff., 42 plates. + + Title in Gothic letters; beneath, woodcuts representing women at work. + On the back of the leaf, a large escutcheon, the three crowns of + Cologne in chief; supporters, a lion and a griffin. Below, "O Foelix + Colonia. 1527." + + The patterns consist of mediæval and arabesque borders, alphabets, + etc., some on white, others on black grounds. Some with counted + stitches. + + Quentell refers to a previous edition. Brunet and the Marquis d'Adda + mention a copy, 1529, with the portrait of Charles V., and a second + edition 1532. + + + 2. + + [Sidenote: 1527. _Cologne. P. Quinty._] + + Liure noveau et subtil touchant lart et sci[=e]ce tant de brouderie + fronssures, tapisseries c[=o]me aultres mestiers qu[=o] fait alesguille, + soit au petit mestier, aultelisse ou sur toille clere, tresvtile et + necessaire a toutes, gens usans des mestiers et ars {460}dessuld, ou + semblables, ou il y ha C. et. xxxviij patrons de diuers ouvraiges faich + per art et proportion. + + En primere a culoge (Cologne) par matrepiere quinty demor[=a]t denpre + leglie de iii roies.[1266] + + The same cut as the preceding, with the arms of Cologne, which seems to + have been engraved for a great Bible printed by Quentell, in 1527, and + is no guide for the date. Figs. 164, 165. + + [Illustration: Fig. 164. + + METRE P. QUINTY.--Cologne, 1527.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 165. + + METRE P. QUINTY.--Cologne, 1527.] + + + 3. + + [Sidenote: 1530. _Venice. A. Taglienti_] + + Opera nuova che insegna a le D[=o]ne a cuscire: a racc[=a]mare: e a + disegnar a ciascuno: Et la ditta opera sara di grande utilita ad ogni + artista: per esser il disegno ad ogniuno necessario: la qual e ititolata + esempio di rac[=a]mi.[1267] + + 4to, 23 ff., 36 plates. + + Title in red Gothic letters; beneath four woodcuts representing women + at work. Two pages of dedication to the ladies, by Giovanni Antonio + Taglienti, in which he says his book is for the instruction of each + "valorosa donna & tutte altre donzelle, con gli huomini insieme & + fanciulli, liquali si dilettarano de imparar a disegnar, cuscir, & + raccammar." + + {461}Then follows a most miscellaneous collection of what he terms, in + his dedication, "fregi, frisi, tondi maravigliosi, groppi moreschi et + arabeschi, ucelli volanti, fiori, lettere antique, maiuscoli, & le + francesche," etc., three pages very much like the pictures in a child's + spelling book, rounds (tondi) for cushions, and two pages representing + hearts and scrolls; hearts transfixed, one with an arrow, another with + a sword, a third torn open by two hands, motto on the scroll:-- + + "La virtù, al huomo sempre li resta + Nè morte nol pò privar di questa." + + On the other page hearts transfixed by two arrows, with two eyes above: + "Occhi piangete accompagnete il core. Inclita virtus." Then follow six + pages of instructions, from which we learn the various stitches in + which these wonderful patterns may be executed, "damaschino, rilevato, + a filo, sopra punto, ingaseato, Ciprioto, croceato, pugliese, scritto, + incroceato, in aere, fatto su la rate, a magliata, desfilato, & di + racammo," to be sewn in various coloured silks, gold and silver thread, + or black silk, for "collari di huomo & di donna, camisciole con + pettorali, frisi di contorni di letti, entemelle di cuscini, frisi di + alcun boccassino, & scufie," etc. On the last page, "Stampa in Vineggia + per Giovan Antonio Tagliente & i Fratelli de Sabbio. 1530." Brunet + gives an edition dated 1528. + + + 4. + + [Sidenote: 1530. _Paris F. Pelegrin._] + + La fleur de la science de pourtraicture et patrons de broderie. Facon + arabicque, et ytalique. Cum priviligio regis. + + Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters. A large figure of Sol (?), with + a yoke, his feet chained, a ball, maybe the Earth, at the end of the + chain. In one hand he holds a scroll with the legend, "Exitus acta + probat." Privilege of "Francoys par la grace de Dieu roy de France," to + "Francisque pelegrin de Florence," to publish "ung livre de fueillages, + entrelatz et ouvraiges moresques, et Damasquins," for six years. + "D[=o]ne a bordeaulx le xvii. jour de Juing. L'an de grace mil cinq + cens tr[=e]te Et de nostre regne le seiziesme." + + Ce present livre a este imprime a paris par jaques nyverd. Le iv. jour + daoust. Lan de grace mil cinq c[=e]s xxx. Pour noble h[=o]me messire + Francisque Pelegrin de florence. + + On les vend a paris En la grant rue sainct Anthoyne devant les + tournelles. Au logis de monseigneur le comte de Carpes. Par messire + Fr[=a]cisque pelegrin de florence.[1268] + + Small fol., 62 ff., 58 plates, consisting of graceful moresque + patterns, no animals or natural objects represented. At plate 33, + surrounded by arabesques, is an N, the initial of the printer. + + + 5. + + [Sidenote: 1529. _Venice. N. Zoppino._] + + Esemplario di lavori: dove le tenere fanciulle & altre donne nobile + potranno facilment imparare il modo & ordine di lavorare, cusire, + racamare, & finalmente far tutte quelle gentillezze & lodevoli opere, le + quali pò fare una donna virtuosa con laco in {462}mano, con li suoi + compasse & misure. Vinezia, per Nicolo D'Aristotile detto Zoppino + MDXXIX. 8vo.[1269] 46 plates. + + The Cav^{re} Merli quotes another edition, date 1530, in the possession + of the Avvocato Francesco Pianesani, and another he believes of 1529. + + + 6. + + [Sidenote: 1532. _Venice. N. Zoppino._] + + Convivio delle belle Donne, dove con li. Nuovi raccami, &c. In fine: + Finisce il convivio delle, &c. Nuovamente stampato in Vinegia, per + Nicolo d'Aristotile, detto Zoppino del mese d'Agosto. MDXXXII. + + In 4to, ff. 24.[1270] + + + 7. + + [Sidenote: 1537. _Venice. N. Zoppino._] + + Gli universali de i belli Recami antichi, et moderni, ne i quali un + pellegrino ingegno, si di huomo come di donna potra in questa nostra eta + con l'ago vertuosamente esercitar si. Non ancora da alcuni dati altri + inluce. + + Frontispiece, two ladies at work; dedication to "gli virtuosi Giovani + et gentilissime Fanciulle." At the end styles himself "Nicolo + d'Aristotile detto Zoppino." March, 1537. + + In 4to, ff. 25, printed on both sides.[1271] + + + 8. + + [Sidenote: 1534. _Augsburg. Schartzemberger._] + + Ain New Formbüchlin bin ich gnandt + Allen Künstlern noch unbekandt + Sih mich (lieber kauffer) recht an, + Findst drefftlich in diser kunff stan + Sch[=o]n gschnierlet, geböglet, auf gladt, + Und gold, auch sch[=o]n von premen stadt, + Es gibt dir ain prem unb ain kledyt. + Wenn mans recht aussainander schneydt, + Das kanst schneyden auss der Ellen, + Von Samat, Seyden, wie manss wolle, + Ich mag braucht wern in allem landt, + Wen man mich ers[=u]cht mit verstandt. + + (At the end.) + + Gedruckt in der Kaiserlichen Riechstatt, Augspurg, durch Johan + Schartzemberger. Fomschneyder. 1534.[1272] + + Small obl., 20 ff., 38 plates. + + Frontispiece. Title in black Gothic letters, at the foot three subjects + of women at work, printed in red. + + The patterns, consisting of graceful arabesque borders, are also in red + (Figs. 166, 167, 168). + + [Illustration: Fig. 166. + + PATTERN BOOK.--Augsburg, 1534.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 167. + + PATTERN BOOK.--Augsburg, 1534.] + + _To face page 462._ + + {463}[Illustration: Fig. 168. + + AUGSBURG. 1534.] + + + 9. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Antwerp. W. Vorsterman._] + + A neawe treatys: as c[=o]cernynge the excellency of the nedle worcke + spânisshe stitche and weavynge in the frame, very necessary to al theym + wiche desyre the perfect knowledge of seamstry, quiltinge and brodry + worke, côteinynge an cxxxviij figures or tables, so playnli made & set + tout in portrature, the whiche is difficyll; and natôly for crafts m[=e] + but also for gentlewem[=e] & and iôge damosels that therein may obtayne + greater conynge delyte and pleasure. + + These books be to sell at Andwarp in the golden Unycorne at Will[=m] + Vorstermans. + + Gheprent tot Antwerpen in die camerstrate in den gulden eenhoren bey + Willem Vorsterman.[1273] + + 8vo, 24 ff., 46 plates. + + Title in Gothic letters, with figures. + + P. 1, dorso: Woodcut of a woman at work and a man sitting by her side. + + Patterns mediæval, small black squares, arabesques, etc. + + Vorsterman worked from 1514 to 1542.[1274] + + + 10. + + [Sidenote: 1542. _Venice._] + + Giardinetto novo di punti tagliati et gropposi, per exercitio et + ornamento delle donne. Ven. 1542, in 4to.[1275] + + + {464}11. + + [Sidenote: 1543. _Venice._] + + Esemplare che insegna alle donne el modo di cucire. Venetia, 1543.[1276] + + + 12. + + [Sidenote: 1544. _Venice._] + + Il Specchio di pensiere (_sic_), delle belle donne dove si vede varie + sorti di punti, cioè, punti tagliati, gropposi, &c. Venetia, 1544. + + In 4to.[1277] + + + 13. + + [Sidenote: 1544. _Venice._] + + Ornamento delle belle donne et virtuose: Opere in cui troverai varie + sorti di frisi con li quali si potra ornar ciascun donna. Ven. + 1544.[1278] + + + 14. + + [Sidenote: 1546. _Paris. Gormont._] + + Le livre de moresques, tres utile et necessaire à tous orfevres, + tailleurs, graveurs, painctres, tapissiers, brodeurs, lingieres et femmes + qui besongnent de l'aiguille. Paris. Gormont, 1546. Fig. en bois.[1279] + + + 15. + + [Sidenote: 1549. _Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucie._] + + La fleur des patrons de lingerie, a deux endroitz, a point croise, a + point couche, et a point picque, en fil dor, fil darg[=e]t, & fil de + soye, ou aultre en quelque ouvraige que ce soit, en comprenant lart de + broderie et tissuterie. Imprimees a Lyon, en la maison de Pierre de + saincte Lucie (dict le Prince, Pres nostre Dame de Confort).[1280] + + (At the end.) + + Imprimé à Lyon par Piarre de saincte Lucie, dict le Prince. 1549. + + 8vo, 12 ff., 21 plates. + + Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters, with woodcuts representing + people at work. Below, two women sitting at frames; above, two others; + and between, a man with a frame in his hand. On each side a shield, one + with crowned heart, on the other a lion, three fleurs de lys in chief. + Patterns mediæval. At the end, the device of the printer, a mountain, + on the top of which is a city against which a youth is placing his + hand: motto, "Spero." At the foot of the mountain a cavern in which is + seated a Fury. This device is engraved No. 616 in Silvestre, who gives + 1530 to 1555 as the date of Pierre de Saincte Lucie. + + + {465}16. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucie._] + + Livre nouveau, dict patrons de lingerie, cest assavoir a deux endroitz, a + point croise, point couche & point picque, en fil dor, dargent, de soye & + autres, en quelque ouvrage que ce soit: comprenant lart de Broderie & + Tissoterie. Imprimees a Lyon, chez Pierre de Saincte Lucie, pres nostre + Dame de Confort.[1281] + + 8vo, 24 ff., 44 plates. + + Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters; the same shields as the + preceding; two women at work. Patterns mediæval. At the end the same + device. + + The copy of the Arsenal is a different impression. Instead of + "Imprimees," &c, we have, "On les vend," etc. + + + 17. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucia._] + + Patrons de diverses manieres + Inventez tressubtilement + Duysans a Brodeurs et Lingieres + Et a ceusy lesquelz vrayement + Veullent par bon entendement + User Dantique, et Roboesque, + Frize et Moderne proprement, + En comprenant aussi Moresque. + A tous massons, menuisiers, & verriers + Feront prouffit ces pourtraictz largement + Aux orpheures, et gentilz tapissiers + A ieunes gens aussi semblablement + Oublier point ne veuly auscunement + C[=o]trepointiers & les tailleurs dymages + Et tissotiers lesquelz pareillement + Par ces patrons acquerront heritages. + + Imprimees a Lyon, par Pierre de Saincte Lucie, dict le Prince, pres + nostre Dame de Confort.[1282] + + 8vo, 16 ff., 31 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Patterns mediæval. + + The copy at the Arsenal is a later impression. "On les vend a Lyon, par + Pierre de saincte Lucie, en la maison du deffunct Prince, pres," etc. + It has only 12 ff., and 23 plates. + + + 18. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Lyon. Le Prince._] + + Sensuyuent lis patrons de messire Antoine Belin, Reclus de sainct Martial + de Lyon. Item plusieurs autres beaulx Patrons nouveaulx, qui out este + inventez par Jeban Mayol Carme de Lyon. + + On les vend à Lyon, chez le Prince.[1283] + + {466}Small 8vo, 6 ff., 85 plates. Copy at the Arsenal has 12 ff. + + The same device of the printer in the frontispiece and at the end of + the book. "Finis." + + One of the patterns represents St. Margaret holding the cross to a + dragon, but in these four books the designs are copied from each other, + and are many of them repetitions of Quinty. + + + 19. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Lyon. D. Celle._] + + Ce livre est plaisant et utile + A gens qui besongnent de leguille + Pour comprendre legèrement + Damoyselle bourgoyse ou fille + Femmes qui out l'esperit agille + Ne scauroint faillir nullement + Corrige est nouvellement + Dung ho[=n]este ho[=m]e par bon zelle + Son nom est Dominicque Celle + Qui a tous lecteurs shumylie + Domicille a en Italie. + En Thoulouse a prins sa naissance. + Mise il a son intelligence + A lamender subtillement + Taillé il est totallement + Par Jehan coste de rue merciere + A Lyon et consequemment + Quatre vingtz fassons a vrayement + Tous de differente maniere.[1284] + + 28 ff., 27 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Dedication to the Reader, + in which it states the book is for the profit of "tant hommes que + femmes." Patterns mediæval. At the end of the Preface, "Finis coronat + opus." + + + 20. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._] + + Esemplario di lavori: che insegna alle d[=o]ne il modo e ordine di + lavorare: cusire: e racámare: e finalm[=e]te far tutte [=q]lle opere + degne di memoria: lequale po fare una donna virtuosa con laco in mano. Et + uno documento che insegna al c[=o]pratore accio sia ben servito.[1285] + + In 8vo, 25 ff., printed on both sides, 48 plates. Title in red Gothic + characters, framed round by six woodcuts similar to that of Vorsterman; + at the foot, "fiorio Vavasore fecit." + + Then follows the "Documento per el compratore," and an Address to + Ladies and Readers, by "Giovandrea Vavassore detto Guadagnino," saying + that he had already "fatti alcuni libri di esempli di diverse sorte." + + There is no date to this copy; but in the library of Prince Messimo, at + Rome, is a copy dated Venice, 18 Feb., 1546, containing 50 plates; and + Brunet quotes an edition, "Stampato in Vinezia, 1556;" Cav. Merli also + possesses an edition of the same date. Mr. E. Arnold has also a copy + with the same date. + + The patterns are mediæval, on black grounds, with counted stitches, a + large flower pot, mermaid, Paschal lamb, and a double plate + representing Orpheus playing to the beasts. + + {467}21. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._] + + Essemplario novo di pin di cento variate mostre di qualunque orte + bellissime per cusire intitolato Fontana di gli essempli. + + Oblong 8vo. No date. 16 ff., 28 plates. + + In the frontispiece is a fountain with the motto, "Solicitudo est mater + divitiarum," and on each side of the fountain-- + + "Donne donzelle ch Per farvi eterne alla. + El cusir seguite Fonte venite." + + On the back of the frontispiece is the Dedication, headed, "Il + Pelliciolo alla molta magnifica Madona Chiara Lipomana;" the page + finished by a sonnet; in the last leaf, "Avviso alle virtuose donne et + a qualunque lettore Giovanni Andrea Vavassore detto Guadagnino." Says + he has "negli tempi passati fatto imprimere molto e varie sorte + d'essemplari di mostre," etc. At the foot, "Nuovamente stampato."[1286] + This work is also described by Count Cicognara with the same title, + only with the date 1550. In the Bibliotheca Communitativa, Bologna, is + a copy of the same date. In this last edition the author writes his + name Valvassore. + + + 22. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._] + + Vavassore Gio. Andrea. Opera nova Universal intitulata corona di ricammi; + Dove le venerande donne e fanciulle: trovera[=n]o di varie opere [per] + fare colari di camisiola & torni[=a][=e]nti di letti [=e]ternelle di + cuscini boccasini schufioni: cordlli di piu sorte; et molte opere per + rec[=a]matori [per] dipitore poreuesi: (_sic_) de lequale opere o vero + esempli ciascuno le potra pore in opera sec[=o]do el suo bisogno: con + gratia novamente stampata ne la inclita citta di vineggia per Giovanni + Andrea Vavassore detto Guadagni[=o]. 36 pp., sm. 4to. + + 13 ff., 52 designs, none of which are repetitions of the + preceding.[1287] + + + 23. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore._] + + Vavassore Gio. Andrea detto Guadagnino. Opera nova, etc. ... dove le + venerande donne et fanciulle trovaranno di varie opere et molte opere per + recamatori et per dipintori; etc. Nuovamente stampata, etc.[1288] + + Quite a different collection from the preceding. A little of everything + in this volume. + + Zoan Andrea Vavassore was the pupil in drawing and engraving of Andrea + Mantegna. Towards the beginning of the sixteenth century, he worked on + his own account, and his engravings are much sought after. So greedy + was he of gain as to obtain for him the name of Guadigno, in Venetian + patois, "covetous." He lived to a great age. + + + {468}24. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. A. Paganino._] + + Libro questo di rechami per el quale se impara in diversi modi l'ordine e + il modo de recamare, cosa non mai più fatta n' è stata mostrata. + + By Alessandro Paganino.[1289] + + 20 plates, with a long explanation how these works are done. + (Communicated by Prince Massimo.) + + + 25. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Paris Vve. Ruelle._] + + Patrons pour Brodeurs, Lingieres, Massons, Verriers, et autres gens + d'esprit. A Paris. Pour la Veuve Jean Ruelle, rue S. Jacques, à + l'enseigne Sainct Nicolas.[1290] + + 4to, 23 ff., 32 plates of mediæval designs. Ornamented title-page. + + + 26. + + [Sidenote: 1548. _Venice. M. Pagan._] + + Il specchio di pensieri delle belle et virtudiose donne, dove si vede + varie sorti di Punti, cioè punti tagliati, punti gropposi, punti in rede, + et punti in Stuora. MDXLVIII. Stamp. in Venetia, per Mathio Pagan in + frezzaria, in le case nove Tien per insegna la fede.[1291] + + 16 ff. + + + 27. + + [Sidenote: 1551. _Venice. M. Pagan._] + + 1. L'honesto Essempio del vertuoso desiderio che hanno le donne di nobile + ingegno circa lo imparare i punti tagliati e fogliami. In Venetia per + Mathio Pagan in Frezaria al segno della Fedo, M.D.L.[1292] + + In the V. and A. Museum is a copy dated 1550. + + + 28. + + [Sidenote: 1551. _Venice. M. Pagan._] + + Giardineto novo di Punti tagliati et gropposi, per esurcitio et ornamento + delle donne. At the end, Venetia, Mathio Pagan in Frezzaria, in le case + nove (tien per insegna della Fede) MDLI. Dedication, Alla signora + Lucretia, Romana Mathio Pagan, salute.[1293] See also No. 38. + + + 29. + + [Sidenote: 1554. _Dubois._] + + Variarum protractionum quas vulgo Maurusias vocant omnium antehac + excusarum libellus longe copiasissimus pictoribus, aurifabris, + polymilariis, barbaricariis variisque id genus {469}artificibus etiam acu + operantibus utilissimus nuncque primen in lucem editus anno 1554. + Balthazar Sylvius (Dubois) fecit. + + Jo. Theodoret, Jo. Israel de Bry excud.[1294] + + In 4to, ff. 23, copperplate. + + + 30. + + [Sidenote: 1555. _Padua. Fra Hieronimo._] + + Triompho di Lavori a Fogliami de i quali si puo far ponti in aere; opera + d' Fra Hieronimo da Cividal di Frioli, de l'Ordine de i Servi di + Osservantia. Cum gratia et privileggio per anni xi.[1295] + + Obl. 4to, 14 ff., 22 pl. + + Ornamental title-page. On the top, a female seated in a triumphal car + drawn by unicorns, with attendants. On each side of the title are women + teaching children to work. + + P. 1, dorso. Dedication of the author, "Alla Magnifica & Illustre + Signora Isabella Contessa Canossa," whose "Immortal Triompho" is + represented in the above woodcut. Fra Hieronimo speaks of preparing + "più alte e divine imprese." + + Then follow three pages of verses in terzette, and p. 3, dorso, the + impresa of the printer, a lion rampant, holding a sword in his fore + paws. Below, "In Padou per Jacobo Fabriano, ad instantia de Fra + Hieronimo da Cividal di Frioli: de l'Ordine de i Servi di Osservantia + 1555." + + + 31. + + [Sidenote: 1556. _Venice. Torello._] + + Lucidario di ricami di Guiseppe Torello. Venezia, 1556. + + In 4to. + + + 32. + + [Sidenote: 1556. _Strasburg. H. Hoffman._] + + New Modelbüch, allen Nägerin, unnd Sydenstickern sehr nutzlich zü + branchë, vor nye in Druck aussgangen durch Hans Hoffman, Burger und + formschneider zu Strassburg. At the end, Zu Strassburg Gedruckt am + Kommarckt durch Jacob Frölich. 1556. 4to.[1296] + + 4to. A to G in fours. (28 leaves.) + + Title printed in red and black. On it a woodcut of two women, one + engaged in embroidery, the other fringing her some stuff. The last leaf + (Giiii.) has on the recto a woodcut of a woman at a frame, the verso + blank. + + + 33. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Zurich. C. Froschover._] + + Nüw Modelbüch, allerley gattungen Däntelschnür, so diser zyt in hoch + Tütschlanden geng und brüchig sind, zu underricht jren Leertöchteren unnd + allen anderen schurwirckeren zu Zurych {470}und wo die sind, yetz nüwlich + zübereit, und erstmals in truch verfergket durch R. M.[1297] + + No place or date, but as appears, both from the title and preface, to + be printed at Zurich, by Christopher Froschover. The date probably from + 1530 to 1540. + + 4to. Signatures A to F in fours. 24 leaves. On the title a woodcut of + two women working at lace pillows. + + + 34. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Frankfort._] + + Modelbüch Welscher, Ober und Niderlandischer Arbait. Getruckt zü + Franckfort. + + No date, but probably at least as early as 1530. 4to. Signatures A to D + in fours. 20 leaves. + + Title enclosed in an elegant woodcut border. + + + 35. + + [Sidenote: 1537. _Frankfort. C. Egenolffs._] + + Modelbüch, von erhabener unnd flacher Arbait, Auff der Ramen, Laden, und + nach der Zale. + + Getruckt zu Franckfort, Bei Christian Egenolffs, Erben. + + The date, 1537, occurs on one of the patterns. 4to. AA to HH in fours. + 32 leaves. Title in a woodcut border. 178 patterns. + + + 36. + + [Sidenote: 1571. _Frankfort on the Mayn. N. Baseus._] + + New Modelbüch. + + Von allerhandt Art, Nehens und Stickens, jetzt mit viellerley Welscher + Arbeyt, Mödel und Stahlen, allen Steinmetzen, Seidenstickern und Neterin, + sehr nützlich und kunstlich, von newem zugericht. + + Getruckt zu Frankfurt am Mayn, 1571. + + Device and motto of Nicolas Baseus on title-page. Sm. 4to. (Library V. + and A. Museum.) + + + 37. + + [Sidenote: 1568. _Frankfort on the Mayn. N. Baseus._] + + Das new Modelbüch, &c. + + Franckfurt am Mayn, 1568, 4to. Printer, Nicholas Baseus, ff. 40. + + + 38. + + [Sidenote: 1569. _Frankfort on the Mayn._] + + Modelbüch; Zweiter Theil: Franckfurt am Mayn, 1569. + + 4to, ff. 44. Nos. 36 and 37 are cited by the Marquis d'Adda. + + + {471}39. + + [Sidenote: 1558. _Venice. M. Pagan._] + + La Gloria et l'honore de ponti tagliati et ponti in aere Venezia per + Mathio Pagan in Frezzeria al segno della Fede. 1558.[1298] + + 16 plates. Dedicated to Vittoria Farnese, Duchess of Urbino. + + + 40. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Venice._] + + Il Monte. Opera nova di recami intitolata il monte, nella quale si + ritrova varie, & diverse sorti di mostre, di punti in aiere, à fogliami. + Dove le belle & virtuose Donne protranno fare ogni sorte di lavoro, + accommodate alle vera forma misura & grandezza, che debbono essere ne mai + piu per l'adietro da alcuno vedute. Opera non men bella che utile, & + necessaria.[1299] + + Below, the impresa of the printer, an eagle with its young; motto, + "Virtute parta sibi non tantum." In Venetia. + + 4to, 16 ff., 29 plates of bold scroll borders. + + + 41. + + [Sidenote: 1559. _Venice. G. A. Bindoni._] + + Il Monte (libro secondo) Opera dove ogni bella donna potrà fare ogni + sorte di lavori cioè colari, fazzoletti, maneghetti, avertadure + (berthes), &c., in Venetia, 1560.[1300] + + Printer's mark and motto as No. 39: afterwards the dedication dated + 1559, "à Vittoria da Cordova Gio. Ant. Bindoni," in which he states "Ho + preso arditamente di presentarvi questo secondo Monte." 4to. ff. 16. + + + 42. + + [Sidenote: 1558. _Venice._] + + Bellezze de recami et dessegni opera novo non men bella che utile, e + necessaria et non più veduta in luce. Venezia, 1558.[1301] + + Ob. 4to. 20 plates of patterns. + + + 43. + + [Sidenote: 1558. _Venice. I. Foresto._] + + Lo Splendore delle virtuose giovani con varie mostre di fogliami e punti + in aere. Venezia. Per Iseppo Foresto in calle dell'acqua a S. Zulian all' + insegno del Pellegrino, 1558.[1302] + + 16 plates. + + + {472}44. + + [Sidenote: 1559. _Venice._] + + Trionfo di Virtù Libro novo da cucir, con fogliami, ponti a fili, ponti + cruciati, &c. Venezia, 1559.[1303] + + 16 plates. + + + 45. + + [Sidenote: _N. D._] + + Burato. + + Consisting of four leaves, with patterns of canvas (tela chiara), in + squares, for works in "punta" of various widths, with instructions how + to increase or diminish the patterns. See CUTWORK. + + On the back of the last page is printed in large characters, "P. Alex. + Pag. (Paganinus). Benacensis F. Bena. V. V."[1304] + + + 46. + + [Sidenote: _N. D._] + + Burato ... con nova maestria, gratiose donne, novo artificio vi apporto. + + A second edition without date. 4to, ff. 59; frontispiece, ladies at + work, verso, Triumph of Fame. Four books of designs of great elegance + and taste. The Marquis d'Adda assigns them to Vavassore. + + + 47. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. A. Passerotti._] + + Passerotti Aurelio Pittore Bolognese dissegnatore e miniatore figlio di + Bartolommeo Passerotti circa al 1560. Libro Primo di lavorieri alle molto + illustre et virtuosissime gentildonne Bolognesi. Libro secondo alle molto + magnifici et virtuosissimi signori.[1305] + + In fol. obl. + + 67 ff., including two dedications and a frontispiece. Designs for + embroidery, etc., drawn with a pen. In the title-page of the first book + is the device of a sunflower, "Non san questi occhi volgere altrove." + + + 48. + + [Sidenote: 1557. _Venice._] + + Le Pompe. Opera nova di recami dove trovansi varie mostre di punto in + aere. Venezia, 1557.[1306] + + Probably an earlier impression of the following. 4to, ff. 16. + + + 49. + + [Sidenote: 1559.] + + Le Pompe, opera nova nella quale si ritrovano varie, & diverse sorti di + mostre, per poter far Cordelle over Bindelle, d' Oro, di Seta, di Filo, + overo di altra cosa di Dove le belle et virtuose donne potranno fare ogni + sorte di lavoro, cioè merli di diverse sorte, Cavezzi, Colari, + Maneghetti, & tutte quelle cose {473}che le piaceranno. Opera non men + bella, che utile, & necessaria. E non più veduta in luce. 1559.[1307] + + Below, the same impresa of the eagle, as in "Il Monte," Nos. 39 and 40. + + 8vo, 16 ff., 30 plates. + + A great variety of borders and indented patterns (merli). (Fig. 169.) + + "Si vendeno alla Libraria della Gatta." + + [Illustration: Fig. 169. + + LE POMPE, 1559.] + + In the Cat. d'Estrées is noted, "Le Pompe, Opera nella quale si + retrovano diverse sorti di mostse per poter far cordelle, Bindelle, + d'oro di seta, di filo. 1559, fig." Probably the same work. + + + 50. + + [Sidenote: 1560. _Venice._] + + Le Pompe, Libro secondo. Opera nuova nella quale si ritrovana varie e + diverse sorti di Mostre, per poter fare Cordelle, ovver Bindelle, d'Oro, + di Seta, di Filo, ovvero di altra cosa. Dove {474}le belle & virtuose + Donne potranno far ogni sorte di lavoro, coèi Merli di diverse sorte, + Cavezzi, Colari, Maneghetti & tutte quelle cose che li piaceno. Opera hon + men bello che utile & necessaria e non più veduta in luce. + + Impresa of the printer, "Pegasus," and below, In "Venetia 1560." + + Obl. 8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates.[1308] + + Mrs. Stisted's copy is dated 1562, and there is one at Vienna, in the + Imperial Library, of the same date. + + + 51. + + [Sidenote: 1563. _Venice. J. Calepino._] + + Splendore delle virtuose giovani dove si contengono molte, & varie mostre + a fogliami cio è punti in aere, et punti tagliati, bellissimi, & con tale + arteficio, che li punti tagliati serveno alli punti in aere. Et da quella + ch' è sopragasi far si possono, medesimamente molte altre. + + In Venetia Appresso Jeronimo Calepino, 1563.[1309] + + 8vo, 20 ff., 35 plates of scroll patterns in the style of "Il Monte." + + Dedication "Alla molto honorata M. Anzola ingegniera succera mia + digniss." Francesco Calepino, wishing, he says, to "ristampare la + presente opera," he dedicates it to her. In Bib. Melzi, Milan, a copy + dated 1567. + + + 52. + + [Sidenote: 1563. _Venice. J. Calepino._] + + Lucidario di recami, nel qual si contengono molte, & varie sorti di + disegni. A punti in aere et punti tagliati, & a fogliami, & con figure & + di più altre maniere, come al presente si usano non più venute in luce + Per lequali ogni elevato ingegno potrà in diversi modi commodissimamente + servirsi. In Venetia, Appresso Ieronimo Calepino, 1563.[1310] + + 8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates of flowing borders like the preceding. + + + 53. + + [Sidenote: 1564. _Venice._] + + I Frutti opera nuova intitulata i frutti de i punti in stuora, a + fogliami, nella quale si ritrova varie, et diverse sorti di mostre di + ponti in Stuora, a fogliami, & punti in gasii & in punti in + Trezola.[1311] Dove ogni bella et virtuosa donna potrà fare ogni sorte di + lavoro, cioè fazoletti, colari, maneghetti, Merli, Frisi, Cavezzi, + Intimelle, overo forelle, avertadure da camise, & altre sorti di lavori, + come piu a pieno potrai vedere, ne mei per l' adietro d' alcun altro + fatte & poste in luce. + + {475}Opera non men bella, che utile et necessaria a ciascuna virtuosa + gentildonna. In Vinegia, 1564.[1312] + + Obl. 8vo, 16 ff., 30 plates of patterns either in dots or small + squares. + + + 54. + + [Sidenote: 1564. _Paris._] + + Patrons pour brodeurs, lingières, massons, verriers, et autres gens + d'esperit; nouvellement imprimé, à Paris, rue Saint-Jacques, à la + Queue-de Regnard M.DLXIIII.[1313] + + + 55. + + [Sidenote: 1564. _Venice. D. de Franceschi._] + + Fede (Opere nova) intitulata: Dei Recami nella quale si contiene varie + diverse sorte di mostre di punti scritto, tagliato, in Stuora, in Rede, + &c. In Venetia, appresso Domenico de Franceschi in Frezzaria, all' + insegna della Regina. M.DLVIII. + + In 4to, ff. 16. In his _Avis au Lecteur_, Franceschi alludes to three + other works he had published, styled _La Regina_, _La Serena_, and _La + Speranza_. + + + 56. + + [Sidenote: 1564. _Venice. D. de Franceschi._] + + Serena opera nova di recami, nella quale si ritrova varie et diverse + sorte di punti in stuora et punti a filo. In Venetia, Domenico di + Franceschi. 1564. + + Obl. 4to, ff. 16. Nos. 55 and 56 cited by Marquis d'Adda. + + + 57. + + [Sidenote: 1581. _Lyon. J. Ostans._] + + Le trésor des patrons, contenant diverses sortes de broderies et + lingeries; pour coudre avec grande facilité et pour ouvrer en diverses + sortes de piquer avec l'ésguille, pulveriser par dessus et faire ouvrages + de toutes sortes de points &ct par Jean Ostans. Lyon, Ben. Rigaud. 1581, + in 4-to.[1314] + + + 58. + + [Sidenote: 1567. _Venice. J. Ostans._] + + Ostans Giovanni. La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di + Recami, et di cucire, &c. ... punti a fogliami punti tagliati punti a + fili et rimessi punti in cruciati, punti a stuora, et ogni altra arte che + dia opera a disegni. Fatta nuovamente per Gio. Ostans. Vittoria, con + gratia et privilegio dell' Illus. {476}Senato Venetiano per anni.[1315] + In Venetia appresso Gio. Ostans, 1567. + + 4to obl., 4 cahiers of 8 ff., 74 plates. Letter of Ostans to Lucretia + Contarini; verso, an engraving of Lucretia Romana, surrounded by her + women, signed Jose. Sal. (Joseph Salviati), who furnished the design, + two sonnets, and Aves. A striking example of the borrowing between + France and Italy in the sixteenth century, probably of the school of + Fontainebleau. Grotesques like A. du Cerceau, scrolls after E. de + Laulne, fresco of figures from G. Tory. Brunet describes a copy dated + 1591. + + + 59. + + [Sidenote: 1584. _Venice. Valvassore's heirs._] + + Ostans. La vera perfettione del desegno &ct. Venetia M.DLXXXIIII., + presso gli heredi Valvassori e Gio. Dom. Micheli al segno dell' + Ippogrifo. + + In 4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.) + + + 60. + + [Sidenote: 1582. _B. Tabin._] + + Neues Künstlicher, Modelbuch von allerhand artlichen und gerechten + Mödeln, &c., bei B. Tabin.[1316] + + + 61. + + [Sidenote: _Paris._ 1584. _D. de Sera._] + + Le livre de Lingerie, composé par Maistre Dominique de Sera, Italien, + enseignant le noble & gentil art de l'esguille, pour besongner en tous + points: utile & profitable à toutes Dames & Damoyselles, pour passer le + temps, & euiter oysiveté. + + Nouvellement augmenté, & enrichi, de plusieurs excelents & divers + patrons, tant du point coupé, raiseau, que passement, de l'invention de + M. Jean Cousin, Peintre à Paris. + + A Paris. Chez Hierosme de Marnef, & la veufve de Guillaume Cauellat, au + mont S. Hilaire à l'enseigne du Pelican. 1584. Avec privilege du + Roy.[1317] + + In the Cat. d'Estrées; No. 8848, is _Livre de Pourtraicture de Jean + Cousin_. Paris, 1637, in 4 fig. + + 4to, 28 ff., 51 plates of mediæval design. + + Frontispiece, three women and a child at work, on each side of the + title a man and a woman at work under a trifoliated canopy. + + Privilege for three years to H. de Marnef, "juré libraire en + l'Université de Paris." + + "L'auteur aux lecteurs." He takes his pen to portray what he has seen + "en Italie, Espagne, Romanie, Allemagne, & autre païs, dont je ne fais + aucune mention à cause de trop longue plexite," that he gives at + {477}least eighty designs for the use and singular profit of many, + "hommes tant que femmes." Below, "Finis coronat opus." + + Then follows a "Balade" of 28 lines. On the last page, the impresa of + Cavellat, a pelican in its piety, "Mors in me vita in me." + + + 62. + + [Sidenote: 1596. _G. Frano._] + + Frano Gio. Libro delle mostre da ceuser per le donne. + + 16 engravings on wood and 8 on copper. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.) + + + 63. + + [Sidenote: _Bologna. A. Parisini._] + + Danieli Bartholomeo Recamatore libro di diversi disegni per Collari, + punti per Fazzoletti et Reticelle divarie sorte. Agostino Parisini forma + in Bologna. + + 15 leaves obl. 8vo, entirely engraved au burin, towards the end of the + sixteenth century.[1318] + + + 64. + + [Sidenote: _N. D._] + + Ornamento delle belle et virtuose donne opera nova nella quale troverrai + varie sorti di frisi, con li quali si potra ornar ciascuna donna, & ogni + letti con ponti tagliato, ponti gropposi, & ogni altra sorte di ponti per + fare quelle belle opere che si appartengono alle virtuose & lodevoli + fanciulle. + + On a scutcheon, with 3 figures below, "Libro Primo." Lib. Victoria and + Albert Museum. + + + 65. + + [Sidenote: 1587. _Paris. 1st Edit. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie. Servans + de patrons à faire toutes sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. + Dedie a la Royne. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & c[=o]tentement, des + nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel + art. Par le Seigneur Federic (_sic_) de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par + Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec + privilege du Roy.[1319] + + [Sidenote: _2nd Part._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie ou est + representé les sept planettes, & plusieurs autres figures & pourtraitz + servans de patrons à faire de plusieurs sortes de Lacis. Nouvellement + inventez, au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & + autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de + Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au + Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roi. + + (At the end.) + + Privilege for nine years to "Iean le Clerc le ieune, 'tailleur + d'histoires,' à Paris," signed 27 June, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David + le Clerc Rue Frementel à l'Estoille d'Or." + + {478}4to. + + The first part consists of 40 ff., 36 of patterns and 4 preliminary + pages. + + P. 1. The title-page with decorated border, in which are two ladies at + work. (See Title-page of this work.) + + P. 2. Dedication of "Le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo aux Benevolles + Lecteurs," in which he sets forth that several authors before him + having published certain patterns for work that "les Seigneurs, Dames, + & Damoyselles ont eu pour agréable," he, to show "la bonne volonté que + je porte à la France, laquelle m'ayant été douce et favorable, depuis + certain temps que j'ay quitté Venize, païs de ma nativité," wish to + portray the present "pourtraicts d'ouvrages magnifiques tous + differ[=e]s, & non encor usitez en cette c[=o]tree ni aultres, & que + j'ay tenus cachés & inc[=o]gnus jusques à maintenant," feeling assured + that if the first you had seen "on engendré quelque fruit & utilité, + ceux cy en aporteront d'avantage," and if I see this my invention + pleases you, I will "vous faire participer d'un aultre seconde bande + d'ouvrages." + + P. 3. Dedication "A la Royne," Louise de Vaudemont, by Le Clerc, saying + that having received from Italy some rare and singular patterns, and + "ouvrages de l'ingerie & en ay[=a]t inv[=e]te quelques uns, selon mon + petit sçavoir, j'ay pensé puis que ces choses là appartienent + principallement aux Dames," that he cannot do better than present them + to the Queen, as if these patterns are useful (as he hears some less + perfect and more rudely sketched have served and profited before), they + ought to be offered to her Majesty. Signed last day of May, 1587. + + P. 4. A sonnet. + + AUX DAMES ET DAMOISELLES. + + "L'un sefforce à gaigner le coeur des gr[=a]ds seigneurs + Pour posséder enfin une exquise richesse, + L'autre aspire aux Estats pour monter en altesse, + Et l'autre par la guerre alléche les honneurs. + + Quand à moy, seulement pour chasser mes langueurs, + Je me sen satisfait de vivre en petitesse, + Et de faire si bien, qu'aux dames je délaisse + Un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs. + + Prenez doncques en gré (mes Dames), je vous prie, + Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquelz je vous dédie, + Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer. + En ceste nouveauté, pourrés beaucoup apprendre, + Et maistresses en fin en cest oeuvre vous rendre. + Le travail est plaisant. Si grand est le loyer." + + "_Morir assidouamente per virtu,_ + _Non morirè._" + + Then follow the 36 patterns set off in white on a black ground, viz., + 20 "Ouvrages de point Couppé," the first plate with the double [Greek: + ll], according to the fashion introduced by Francis I. of using Greek + monograms, standing for Queen Louise. On the second page are two + escutcheons, one of France, the other with the letter H for Henry III. + Then follow eight "Passemens de point Couppé," which are succeeded by + eight more "Ouvrages de point Couppé." + + Part 2, 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in + squares for stitches like the German patterns of the present day. These + consist of the Seven Planets, Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus + and Saturn. Four in squares of various designs; two of Amorini shooting + stags and birds; Neptune and the winds; an arabesque with impresa of a + column with circle and double triangle; five borders and squares, and + {479}two "bordures à carreaux," diamond-shaped meshes. The last page + contains the Extract from the Privilege. + + This is the original edition of Vinciolo, of which we know but one copy + existing--that in the Library at Rouen. + + It was followed the same year by two other editions, with + alterations.[1320] + + + 66. + + [Sidenote: 1587. _2nd Ed. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie. + Nouvellement augmentez de plusieurs differens pourtraits servans de + patrons à faire toutes sortes poincts couppé, Lacis, et autres reseau de + poinct conté. Dedié à la Royne. Le tout inventé, au proffit & + contentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, + amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A. + Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, + pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587. + + [Sidenote: _2nd part._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie ou + avons augm[=e]té plusieurs nouveaux & differens portraitz de reseau, tout + point conté, plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes. + + Nouvellement inventez au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & + Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits amateurs d'un tel art. Par le + Seigneur Federick de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le + ieune, Ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. + Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1321] + + 1st Part, 40 ff. The same frontispiece, dedications, date, and sonnet, + as the first, the same number of patterns, only the eight styled in the + first "Passemens" are here all called, like the others, "Ouvrages" de + point couppé. (See Fig. 4.) + + 2nd Part, 32 ff. This part has 30 patterns, comprising the 24 of the + first edition, and six additional ones, consisting of squares and two + hunting subjects. + + + 67. + + [Sidenote: 1587. _3rd Edit. No. 1. Parts 1 and 2._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo + Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. + Derechef et pour la troisieme fois augmentez Outre le reseau premier et + le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de + reseau de point c[=o]té avec le nombre des mailles, choze non encor veue + ni inventée. {480}A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au + Chef Sainct Denis, pres le College de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. + 1587.[1322] + + This must be the first impression of the third edition. + + [Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 2. 1st Part._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo + Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. + Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & + le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de + reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor + veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint + Hilaire, du Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du + Roy. 1588.[1323] + + + 68. + + [Sidenote: _2nd Part._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo + Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. + Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & + le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de + reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor + veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint + Hilaire, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du + Roy. 1588.[1324] + + This must be subsequent to the Brussels impression, as Jean le Clerc + has changed his address. + + In the third edition, dorso of pp. 1 and 2, we have the addition of + portraits of Louise de Vaudemont and Henry III., with a complimentary + stanza of four lines under each. + + In his Advertisement au lecteur, Vinciolo says that having promised, + since the first impression of his book, to give a "nouvelle bande + d'ouvrages," and not to disappoint certain ladies who have complained + that he has not made "du reseau assez beau à leur fantaisie," I have + wished for the third time to place before their eyes many new and + different patterns of "reseau de point conté que j'ay cousus et + attachez à la fin de mes premières figures," beneath which I have put + the number and quantity of the stitches. Same dedication and sonnet as + before. Privilege for nine years dated Paris, 25 May, 1587. "De + l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, ruë S. Jacques, au petit Bec, devant le + College de Marmouttier." + + 1st Part, 40 ff., 36 plates, 27 of point couppé, two stomachers, and + seven "Passemens" de point couppé; the same lettered "Ouvrages" as in + the preceding impression. + + 2nd Part, 36 ff., 50 plates. The thirty already published in the second + edition, after which follow the twenty additional of "reseau de point + conté," announced in the Preface, consisting of "6 Quarrés, 2 Coins de + {481}Mouchoir, 2 Bordures, 6 animals: Lion, Pelican, Unicorn, Stag, + Peacock, and Griffon"; and the Four Seasons. "Déesse des fleurs, + representant le Printemps," etc. + + These last twenty have the number of stitches given. (See Fig. 5.) + + On the last page is an escutcheon with the arms of France and Poland. + + + 69. + + [Sidenote: 1588. _3rd Edit. No. 3. Parts 1 and 2._] + + A later impression still. + + Same title, date, portraits, dedication, and sonnet, only the Privilege + is dated "ce douzième jour de Novembre 1587. De l'Imprimerie de David + le Clerc, Rue S. Jaques, aux trois Mores."[1325] + + 34 ff. 30 plates, 1st part; 50 plates in 2nd. + + + 70. + + [Sidenote: 1595. _3rd Edit. No. 4. Parts 1 and 2._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Frederic de Vinciolo, + Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie à la Royne + Douairière de France. + + De Rechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & + le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux & differens portrais de + reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encore + veuë ny inventée. + + A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc, ruë Saint Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre. + Avec privilege du Roy. 1595.[1326] + + This impression is dedicated to Louise de Vaudemont, now "Reine + Douairière," Henry III. having died in 1589. + + + 71. + + [Sidenote: 1606. _3rd Edit. No 5. Parts 1 and 2._] + + The same title as that of 1595--differing only in date.[1327] + + Privilege for six years, "donné à Mantes, le 3 Juillet 1593." At the + foot, "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc au Petit Corbeil 1606." + + The 1st part has 32 ff. and 36 plates; 32 "Ouvrages de poinct couppé," + and 4 stomachers. + + The 2nd part 46 plates, same as those of 1588, only four less. + + On the last page the escutcheon of France and Navarre. + + + 72. + + [Sidenote: 1589. _4th Edit. Turin. Parts 1 and 2._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo + Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. + Derechef et pour la quatrieme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier et + le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de + reseau de point conté, avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore veue + ni inventee. A Thurin. Par Eleazaro Thomysi. 1589.[1328] + + Described in Cat. Cicognara with the date 1658. The 1st part 44 ff. and + 39 plates; the 2nd with 36 plates. + + {482}The editions of 1613 and 1623 are described in their chronological + order. Nos. 64 and 71. + + That of 1603 we have not seen; but M. Leber states it to be equally + rich with that of 1623. + + The copies of Vinciolo in the Bodleian bear the dates of 1588, 1603, + and 1612. + + Baron Pichon has a copy of an impression of 1612. + + One at Bordeaux, in the Bib. de la Ville, is dated 1588. + + + + In a book sale at Antwerp, March, 1864, there was sold the following:-- + + + + Lot 528. _Livre de Patrons de Lingerie dediè a la Royne, nouvellement + invente par le seign^r Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien._ Paris, Jean le + Clerc, 1598.--_Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour toutes + sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, 1598.--_Les secondes + oeuvres et subtiles inventions de Lingerie._ Paris, _Ibid._, + 1598.--_Nouveaux pourtraicts de Point coupé et Dantelles en petite + moyenne et grande forme._ A. Montbeliard, Jacques Foillet, 1598. 4 tom. + 1 vol. in-4. v. anc. fig. sur bois. + + It went for 440 francs to a Mr. Ross. We do not know the editions of + 1598. + + As M. Leber observes, the various editions of Vinciolo, published by Le + Clerc and his widow, from 1587 to 1623, and perhaps later, are only + impressions more or less varied of the two distinct books, the one of + point coupé, the other of lacis. + + The work of Vinciolo has been reprinted in several countries. In + England it has been translated and published by Wolfe. (See No. 72.) At + Liege, by Jean de Glen. (See No. 79.) Mr. Douce says that it was + reprinted "at Strasburg, 1596, and at Basle, 1599, with a second part, + which is rare, and sometimes contains a portrait by Gaultier of + Catherine de Bourbon." + + In the Bib. Nat. (Grav. B. c. 22), a volume headed _Vinciolo (Federigo) + Peintre Venitien et ses imitateurs_, contains, with "La pratique," + etc., of Mignerak (See No. 93), a German copy of the "nouveaux + pourtraits," the work printed by Ludwig Künigs, at Basle, 1599 (See No. + 85); and a German work headed "Broderies sur filet," 50 plates engraved + upon copper. + + + 73. + + [Sidenote: 1591. _London. Wolf._] + + New and singular patternes and workes of Linnen. Serving for patternes to + make all sortes of Lace edging and Cut-workes. Newly invented for the + profite and contentment of Ladies, Gentlewomen, and others that are + desirous of this Arte. London: Imprinted by J. Wolfe and Edward White, + 1591.[1329] + + EPISTLE TO THE READER. + + Having framed a body of the best and rarest manner in true perfection + of sundrie sortes of deuises or workes, as well for frame-workes as + other needle-workes, I devised with all diligence and industrious + studie to sattisfy the gentle mindes of vertuous women by bringing to + light things never before as yet seene nor committed to print; All + which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order, + the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward; + Whereby with more {483}ease they may be sewed and wrought in Cloth, and + keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke. + And more, who desyrith to bring the worke into a lesser forme, let them + make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may + you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing, or pouldering + upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these + squares serve not onely for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner + of seweing or stitching, noteing withall that they are made to keepe + the work or deuise in good order and even proportion--And even if ye + will that squares be greater, make of two, one, four, two, and soe they + will be larger. And in this manner may you proceed in all. + + God prosper your desires. + + Then follows the dedication: + + To the Right Worshipful Gentlewoman, Mistress Susan Saltonstall, wife + to the right Worshipfull Mr. Richard Saltonstall, Alderman of the City + of London (afterwards Lord Mayor, and knighted in 1597). + + It being my chance (Right Worshipfull) to lighten upon certaine + paternes of cut-worke and others brought out of Foreign Countries which + have bin greatly accepted of by divers Ladies and Gentlewomen of + sundrie nations and consequently of the common people; This seemed unto + mee a sufficient instance and argument to bestowe likewise some paines + for the publishing thereof, But being in suspense of the dedication two + causes induced mee to imbolden myselfe to present it unto your + acceptation and patronage: First because that rare devises and + inventions are for the most part more agreeable and gratefuller + accepted, than ordinarie and common things, although of great price and + value, Secondlie because these workes belong chiefly to Gentlewomen for + to passe away their time in vertuous exercises Wherefore to fit and + accommodate the dedication aright to the contents and subject of the + book I thought it not amisse to offer it unto your worship in token of + thankfullness for so many benefites which I have received so + bountifullie at your hands Assuring myselfe moreover that as these + patternes will bring sufficient contentment and profite to all + well-willers, that are desirous of this Arte, soe they shall for ever + acknowledge themselves to be beholden chiefly unto you, being the + chiefest occasion of the publishing and setting forthe thereof. And + therefore uppon hope that you will take these inventions in good parte, + which in time I am purposed (If God permit) to increase and augment + with more paternes of worke. In the meantime I pray God give to your + Worship a happie prosperous and long life with a full accomplishment of + all your vertuous desires. + + Your worshipps most dutiful + Servant and Kinsman, + ADRIAN POYNTZ. + + + 74. + + [Sidenote: 1591. _Bologna. T. Pasini._] + + Fiori di ricami nuovamente posti in luce ne i quali sono varii, et + diversi dissegni di lavori; Come Merli, Bauari, Manichetti, & altre sorti + di opere, che al presente sono in uso, utilissimi ad ogni stato di Donne. + Seconda Impressione. + + Impresa of Mercury. Below-- + + In Bologna, per Giovanni Rossi. MDXCI. Ad instanza di Tomaso + Pasini.[1330] + + {484}Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 18 plates like Vecellio, one "bavaro." + + Dedicated by the author to "La Signora Silveria Rossi Ghisolieri." + + Mostly indented patterns on black grounds. + + + 75. + + [Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._] + + Prima Parte de' fiori, e disegni di varie sorti di Ricami moderni come + merli, bavari, manichetti, & altri nobili lavori che al presente sono in + uso. + + A figure of Peace. Below-- + + In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della + Pace 1591.[1331] + + Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 17 plates in the style of Vecellio. + + Dedication to "La Signora Gabriella Zeno Michele," signed "Di Venetia + alli 19 di Marzo, 1591, Giovanbattista Ciotti." The last plate a figure + of Fortune, with "Finis in Venetia 1591. Appresso Nicolo Moretti, ad + instantia di Francesco di Franceschi." + + + 76. + + [Sidenote: 1591. _Venice. F. di Franceschi._] + + La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ricami & di cucire ogni + sorti de punti à foglami, punti tagliati, punti a fili & rimessi, punti + incrociati, punti à stuoro & ogn' altre arte, che dia opera à disegni. E + di nuovo aggiuntovi varie sorti di merli, e mostre, che al presente sono + in uso & in pratica. + + Impresa of Peace differing from the preceding. + + In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della + Pace. 1591.[1332] + + Obl. 8vo, 86 ff., 72 plates. + + Dedicated to "Signora Lucretia Contarini, per matrimonio Priula Nobile + Gentildonna Venetiana," by Giovanni Ostans. + + A woodcut of Lucretia working with her maidens, signed Jose Sol. 1557. + + Patterns, Small Squares, Gorgets, Youth, Paris, Pyramus and Thisbe, + Arabesques, Grotesques, and an Alphabet. + + On the last leaf, dorso, A. B. C. D. "tutte sono quaderni." A figure + again of Peace, and "In Ven. 1590." + + + 77. + + [Sidenote: 1592. _Venice. 1st Book. C. Vecellio._] + + Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro primo. Nel quale si dimostra + in varij Dissegni, tutti le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in + aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra {485}sorte cosi per Freggi come + per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' + Europa. Et molte delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à + Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta impressione molti bellissimi + dissegni non mai più veduti. + + Then follows the printer's impresa of the stork and serpent. + "Voluptatum et malorum effetuu dissipatio," with a lady at work on each + side, and below-- + + Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio in Frezzaria nelle + Case de' Preti. 1592.[1333] + + Which is repeated in the 2nd and 3rd Books. + + Obl. 4to, 32 ff., 28 plates. + + Dedication of Vecellio "Alla Clarissima, et Illustrissima Signora, + Viena Vendramina Nani, dignatissima Consorte dell' Illust^{amo} Sig. + Polo Nani, il Procurator di S. Marco," in which he refers to his work + on costume, and says that he dedicates this book to her for the delight + she takes in these works and "in farne essercitar le donne di casa sua, + ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggidì vivano in questa città." + Signed: Venice, Jan. 20, 1591. + + Beautiful designs, among which are three corners for handkerchiefs, the + last lettered: "Diverse inventioni p. cantoni dee fazoletti." + + On Plate 3, within a point coupé border, is a statue of Venus standing + upon a tortoise, with other figures, and above, "Conviensi, che della + Donna la bontà, & non la bellezza sia divulgata," and underneath:-- + + "Veneer io son, de le mirabil mani + Del dotto Fidia d' un bel marmo finta. + In me vedete atti gentili, e humani, + Ch' esser dè Donna à gentilezza accinta. + Io sopra una Testugine dimora, + Perchè stia in Casa, e sia tacita ogn' hora." + + + [Sidenote: _2nd Book._] + + Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro secondo. + + Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutte le sorti di Mostre de + puute tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte, + cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano + hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molti delle quali Mostre possono servire + anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta Impressione + molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti. Con Privilegio. In Venetia, + Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592. + + 28 ff., 26 plates. + + The dedication of this and the next book, though differently worded, + are addressed to the same lady as the first. This is dated Jan. 24, + 1591. + + Among the patterns are two designs for handkerchiefs, and on the last + plate a statue of Vesta, within a point coupé border. + + [Sidenote: _3rd Book._] + + Corono delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel {486}quale si + dimostra in varii dissegni molte sorti di Mostri di Punti in Aria, Punti + tagliati, Punti a reticello, and ancora di picciole; cosi per Freggi, + come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidi per tutta + l'Europa. Con alcune altre inventione di Bavari all' usanza Venetiana. + Opera nouva e non più in luce. Con privilegio. In Venetia Appresso Cesare + Vecellio, stà in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Petri. 1592. + + Dedication dated June 15, 1591. Vecellio says he has added "alcune + inventioni di bavari all' usanza nostra." In the copy (Bib. de + l'Arsenal, 11,955 _bis_) are added instructions to transfer the + patterns upon parchment without injuring the book. The last plate shows + how to reduce the patterns and how to prick them (Fig. 170). This is + sometimes given at the end of the first book instead of the third. + + 28 ff., 26 plates, two of bavari. + + [Illustration: Fig. 170. + + MANNER OF PRICKING THE PATTERN.--(Vecellio.)] + + On Pl. 27, woman with a torch and Cupid. At Pl. 28, in a point coupé + border, is a fox holding the bust of a lady, the conceit of which is + explained by the verses to be, that sense is better than beauty:-- + + "Trovò la Volpe d' un Scultore eletto + Una testa sì ben formata, tale, + Che sol le manca Spirito havresti detto, + Tanto l' industria, e l' arteficio vale, + La prende in man, poi dice; O che perfetto + Capo, e gentil; ma voto è d' inteletto." + + + + 78. + + [Sidenote: 1594. _Venice. C. Vecellio._] + + Gioiello della corona per le nobili e virtuose donne. Libro quarto. Nel + quale si dimostra altri nuovi bellissimi Dissegni di tutte le sorte di + Mostre di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati & Punti à Reticello; così per + Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per + tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali mostre possono servire anchora per + opere à Mazzette Nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni + non mai più usate, nè vedute. Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare + Vecellio, in Frezzaria nella Casa de i Preti. 1594. + + Same impresa of the stork and serpent. + + Dedicated to the Sign. Isabella Palavicina Lupi Marchesa di Soragana, + dated "Venetia alli 20 Novembrio 1592." Cesare Vecellio. 30 + plates.[1334] + + {487}Vecellio, author of the _Corona_ and _Gioiello_, also published a + work on costume styled _Degli Habiti Antichi et Moderni_. _In Venezia_, + 1590. _Presso Damian Zenero._ In the frontispiece is a salamander; on + the last leaf a figure of Vesta. It has been reproduced by F. Didot, + Paris. + + He was not, as is often incorrectly stated, a relation, or even of the + same family as Titian. + + These are the earliest impressions we have had an opportunity of + examining of Vecellio's works, which appear to have been widely + circulated. The Bib. de l'Arsenal possesses two copies of the _Corona_ + (No. 11,955), from which we have described. In the other (No. 11,155 + _bis_), Book 1 "ultima," Book 2 "quarta," are both dated 1593; and Book + 3 "nuovamente ristampata la quarta volta," 1592. The plates all the + same. + + The Library of Rouen (No. 1,315) has a volume containing the _Corona_ + and _Gioiello_. Book 1 "quarta Imp.," Book 2 "ultima," both dated 1594; + and Book 3 "quinta," 1593. The _Gioiello_, 1593. + + In the Bodleian is a copy of the three books, date 1592; and another, + date 1561, was in the possession of the late Mrs. Dennistoun of + Dennistoun. + + At Venice, in the Doge's Library, is a volume containing the three + books of the _Corona_ and the _Gioiello_, dated 1593. + + Mrs. Stisted, Bagni di Lucca, also possesses the three books of the + Corona, dated 1597, and the Gioiello, 1592. + + At Bologna the Library has one volume, containing the first and second + books only, evidently the original impressions. The titles are the same + as the above, only to each is affixed, "Opera nuova e non più data in + luce," and "Stampata per gli Hered' della Regina. 1591. An instantia di + Cesare Vecellio, Stà in Frezzaria." + + The same Library also possesses a volume, with the three books of the + _Corona_, the first and third "ottava," the second "quarta," and the + _Gioiello_, "nuovamente posto in luce." All "In Venetia appresso gli + heredi di Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria. 1608." + + At Vienna, in the new Museum for Art and Industry, is a copy of the + five books, dated 1601.[1335] + + Cav. Merli cites from a copy of the four books, dated 1600. + + The various impressions, therefore, date from 1591 to 1608. + + We see these different parts, like those of Vinciolo and all these old + collections, have been printed and reprinted independently of each + other, since the third part was at its fifth impression in 1593, while + the first, which ought to have preceded it, was only at its fourth in + 1594.[1336] + + + 79. + + [Sidenote: 1593. _St. Gall. G. Strauben._] + + New Model Buch darinnen allerley Gattung schöner Modeln der newen + aussgeschitnen Arbeit auff Krägen, Hempter, Jakelet und dergleichen zu + newen, so zuvor in Teutschlandt nicht gesehen. Allen thugentsamen Frawen + und Jungkfrawen, Nätterinnen, auch allen audern so lust zu solcher + kunstlichen Arbeit haben, sehr dienstlich. + + {488}Getruckt in uerlegung George Strauben, von S. Gallem, Anno + 1593.[1337] + + _Translation._ + + New Patternbook, in which are all sorts of beautiful patterns of the new + cutwork for collars, shirts, jackets, and such like, such as never before + were seen in Germany. Most useful to all virtuous dames and such artistic + works, very respectfully dedicated. + + Printed for the publisher, G. Strauben. + + A reprint of the third book of Vecellio's Corona. + + + 80. + + [Sidenote: _N.D. Lindau am Bodensee._] + + Neu Model-Buch, darinnen allerley gattung schöner Modeln der neuen, etc. + + Probably a reprint of No. 79. + + 27 plates. + + + 81. + + [Sidenote: 1597. _Liége. J. de Glen._] + + Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraits, pour toutes sortes de lingeries de + Jean de Glen, dediés à Madame Loyse de Perez; à Liége, chez Jean de Glen, + l'an 1597.[1338] + + Obl. 4to, 39 plates, mostly borrowed from Vinciolo, as well as the + title. + + + 82. + + [Sidenote: 1596. _Florence. M. Florini._] + + Fior di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce. Fiorenze, 1596, ad instanza di + Mattheo Florini. + + 4to obl., 24 plates and 2 leaves of text.[1339] + + + 83. + + [Sidenote: 1603. _Siena. M. Florini._] + + Fiori di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce nei quali sono varie et diversi + disegni di lavori, como merli, bavari, manichetti e altre sorte di opera. + Siena, appresso Matteo Florini, 1603. + + 4to obl., 24 pages.[1340] + + + 84. + + [Sidenote: 1603. _Siena. M. Florini._] + + Giojello, &c. Nel quale si di mostra altri novi bellissimi disegni di + tutte le sorte, di mostre &c. ... di punti &c., cosi {489}per fregi come + per merli et rosette che con l' aco si usanno hoggi di per tutte l' + Europa. Opere a Mazzetto nuovamente posta in luce con motte bellissime + inventioni non mai più usate ne vedute. In Siena, Matteo Florini MDCIII. + + 4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.) + + + 85. + + [Sidenote: 1597. _Nuremberg. B. Laimoxen._] + + Schön neues Modelbuch von allerley lüstigen Mödeln naczunehen zu würken + un zu sticke; gemacht im Jar Ch. 1597, zu Nürmberg, bey Balthaser + Laimoxen zu erfragen.[1341] + + _Translation._ + + Fine new Patternbook of all sorts of pleasant patterns for sewing, + working, and embroidering: made in the year of Christ 1597, at Nurmberg: + to be had of Balthasar Laimoxen. + + Obl. fol., 27 ff. + + 5 sheets, title-page, and poem, signed J. S. (Johann Sibmacher.) + + Mr. Gruner has communicated to us a work with the same title, dated + 1591.[1342] + + + 86. + + [Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._] + + Nouveaux pourctraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et + grande forme nouvellement inventez & mis en lumiere Imprimé a Montbéliard + par Jacques Foillet (|)|)xciix (1598).[1343] + + Small 4to, 82 ff., 78 plates. + + Frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coupé. + + "Avertissement aux dames," of three pages, stating these works are all + composed of "point devant l'esguille, de point en toille, en bouclages, + & de cordonnages." The writer gives patterns of roses of all sizes, + "very little, middling, large, and very large," with from one to nine + _pertuis_, or openings, holes. Also Carreaux in different forms, and + lastly _dantelles_. "Je n'ay voulu omettre de vous dire que pour faire + des dantelles, il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desiré + faire vos dantelles, & les cordonner, puis jetter les fils au dedans, + qui fera tendre le cordon & lui donnera la forme carrée, ronde, ou + telle forme que desires, ce qu'estant faict vous paracheverès + facilement. Enoultre vous verrez qu'estant bien petites deviennent peu + a peu bien grandes jusques a la fin. Elles vous enricheront & + embelliront vos ouvrages en les applicant aux bords d'iceux." + Directions, we confess, perfectly enigmatical to us. The author + finishes by exhorting the ladies to imitate Minerva and Arachne, "qui + ont acquis un grand renom, pour avoir (c[=o]me à l'envie l'une de + l'autre) travaillé de l'esguille." + + The avertissement is followed by an "Exhortation aux jeunes filles." in + verse, of 21 lines, beginning-- + + "Si nuisible est aux humains la paresse," etc. + + 40 patterns of "roses," of point coupé. + + {490}And 18 of "Carreaux," variously disposed. + + Then follow 20 patterns of lace, of "bien petites, petites, moyennes, & + grosses," all "au point devant l'Esguille." (See Figs. 8 to 12.) + + At the end: "La fin courone l'oeuvre." This is the earliest + pattern-book in which the word "dantelle" occurs. + + + 87. + + [Sidenote: 1598. _Montbéliard. J. Foillet._] + + New Modelbuch darinnen allerley ausgeschnittene Arbeit, in kleiner, + mittelmässiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden. Allen tugenden + Frawen vnnd Jungfrawen sehr nutzlich. Gedruckt zu Mumpelgarten durch + Jacob Foillet, 1598.[1344] + + + 88. + + [Sidenote: 1599. _Basle._] + + Fewrnew Modelbuch von allerhandt Künstlicher Arbeidt, nämlich Gestricht, + Aussgezogen, Aussgeschnitten, Gewiefflet, Gesticht, Gewirckt, und Geneyt: + von Wollen, Garn, Faden, oder Seyden: auff der Laden, und Sonderlich auff + den Ramen, Jetzt Erstmals in Teutschlandt an Tag gebracht: Zu Ehren und + Gl[=u]cklicher Zeitvetreibung allen dugentsamen Frawen, und Jungfrawen + Nächerinen, auch allen andern, so lust zu solcher Kunstlicher Arbeit + haben sehr dienstlich. Getruckt zu Basel. + + In verlegung Ludwig K[=u]nigs MDXCIX.[1345] + + Small obl., 33 ff., 32 plates. + + Frontispiece border of point coupé. Title in Gothic red and black. + Patterns, mostly borders, number of stitches given, "Mit xxxxvii., + Bengen," etc. "Ende dieses modelbuchs." + + + 89. + + [Sidenote: 1601. _Paris._] + + Béle Prérie contenant divers caracters, et differentes sortes de lettres + alphabetiques, à sçavoir lettres Romaines, de formes, lettres pour + appliquer sur le reseuil ou lassis, et autres pour marquer sur toile et + linges, par Pier. le Bé. Paris, 1601.[1346] + + In 4to obl. + + + 90. + + [Sidenote: 1601. _Nuremberg. Sibmacher._] + + Modelbuch in Kupfer gemacht, Nürmberg, bei Michel Kuisner, 1601, by J. + Sibmacher.[1347] + + + 91. + + [Sidenote: 1604. _Nuremberg. J. Sibmacher._] + + Newes Modelbûch fûr Kûpfer gemacht, darinnen allerhand art newen Model + von dem Mittel und Dick ausgeschniden duer {491}Arbeit auch andern + kunstlichen Nahework zu gebrauchen mit Fluss fur druck verfertigt. Mit + Röm. Kais. Maj trentich Nürmberg 1604.[1348] + + _Translation._ + + New book of patterns (on copper) in which are copied out all kinds of new + patterns for thick and thin materials, to be used also in the making of + other artistic needlework. + + Obl. 4to, 58 plates carefully engraved upon copper. + + Title-page surrounded by a richly ornamented border, with two figures, + one sewing, the other at embroidery; also a second ornamented + frontispiece, dedication to Maria Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, dated + 1601. Nuremberg, J. Sibmacher, citizen and engraver. + + Then follow five pages of dialogue, given page 6, note 24, and 227. + + A printed title to the next plate. "The following pattern may be worked + in several different ways, with a woven seam, a flat, round, or crossed + Jew stitch."[1349] It is probably meant for cut-work made on thin + materials. + + Then follow 58 leaves of patterns, the greater number of which have the + number of rows written over each pattern. Pl. 38, with two patterns, is + inscribed, "The following patterns are for thick cut-work." In the + upper pattern, on the first leaf, are the arms of the Palatine; on the + second, those of Juliers and Mark. + + + 92. + + [Sidenote: 1600. _Venice. I. C. Parasole._] + + Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose donne dove si vedono bellissimi lavori di + ponti in aria, reticella, di maglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella + Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni + altri bellissimi lavori nuovamente inventati. Stampata in Venetia ad + instantia di Luchino Gargano MDC.[1350] See also No. 99. + + + 93. + + [Sidenote: _N. D._] + + Allerhand Model zum Stricken un Nähen.[1351] + + Obl. 4to, 64 plates. No date. + + + 94. + + [Sidenote: 1604. _Padua. P. P. Fozzi._] + + A book of models for point coupé and embroidery, published at Padua, + October 1st, 1604, by Pietro Paolo Fozzi. "Romano."[1352] + + + 95. + + [Sidenote: 1605. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._] + + Schön newes Modelbuch von 500 schönen aussor wählten, Kunstlichen, so wol + Italiähnischen, Frantzösischen, {492}Niederländischen, Engelländischen, + als Teutschen Mödeln, Allen, Näher.... hstichern, &c., zu nutz. (_Some of + the words are illegible._) + + Livre des Modelles fort utile à tous ceux qui besoignent à l'esguille. + + At the foot of last page recto is, "Franckfurt am Mayn, bey Sigismund + Latomus, 1605."[1353] + + Small obl. 100 plates (Fig. 171), and coloured title-page with figures. + + [Illustration: Fig. 171. + + FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN, 1605.] + + In the first plate is an escutcheon with this monogram (Fig. 172) + surrounded with embroidery. + + + [Illustration: Fig. 172. + + MONOGRAM.] + + In the Nuremberg copy it is at p. 83. + + + 96. + + [Sidenote: 1607. _Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus._] + + Schön newes Modelbuch, Von hundert vnd achtzig schönen kunstreichen vnd + gerechten Mödeln, Teutsche vnd Welsche, welche auff mancherley Art können + geneet werden, als mit Zopffnath, Creutz vnnd Judenstich, auch auff Laden + zu wircken: Dessgleichen von ausserlesenen Zinnigen oder Spitzen. Allen + Seydenstickern, Mödelwirckerin, Näderin, vnd solcher Arbeitgeflissenen + Weibsbildern sehr dienstlich, vnd zu andern Mustern {493}anleytlich vnd + verstendig. Franckfurt am Mayn, In Verlegung Sigismundi Latomi. + M.D.C.VII.[1354] + + Small 4to obl. 180 patterns. + + Sheets A-O (the last has only 3 leaves). On the title-page are two + ladies, one working at a pillow, the other at a frame; in the + back-ground, other women employed at various works. Another copy dated + 1629. Mr. Arnold and Mr. F. S. Ellis. + + + 97. + + [Sidenote: 1605. _Paris. M. Mignerak._] + + La pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias + Mignerak Anglois, ouvrier fort expert en toute sorte de lingerie ou sont + tracez Divers compartimens de carrez tous differans en grandeur et + invention avec les plus exquises bordures, desseins d'ordonnances qui se + soient veux jusques à ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques, qu'au tres + ouvrages de point de rebord. Ensemble Les nouvelles invencions Françoises + pour ce qui est de devotion et contemplation. A la Tres-Chrestiene Roine + de France et de Navarre. Avec privilege 1605 du Roy.[1355] + + A Paris, par Jean Leclerc, rue St.-Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre + roialle. + + EXTRACT FROM "DISCOURS DU LACIS." + + "Ce chef d'oeuvre divin n'est pas à l'adventure + Mais par art composé, par nombre, et par mesure; + Il commence par un, et va multipliant + Le nombre de ses trouz qu'un noeud va reliant, + Sans perdre aucunement des nombres d'entresuitte, + Croissant, et decroissant d'une mesme conduitte: + Et ainsi qu'il commence il acheve par un, + Du monde le principe et le terme commun. + Si l'on veut sans faillir cet ouvrage parfaire, + Il faut multiplier, adjouster, et soustraire: + Il faut bien promptement assembler, et partir, + Qui veut un beau Lacis inegal compartir. + Mais se peut il trouver, souz la voute azurée, + Chose plus justement en tous sens mesurée? + Ouvrage ou il y ait tant de proportions, + De figures, de traicts et de dimensions? + D'un point premièrement une ligne l'on tire, + Puis le filet courbé un cercle va descrire, + Et du cercle noué se trouve le quarré + Pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont erré. + De six mailles se faict une figure egale, + De trois costez esgaux, pour forme pyramidale: + Et l'ouvrage croissant, s'en forme promptement + {494} + Une autre dont les deux sont egaux seulement. + Si l'on tire un des coings, se forme une figure. + D'un triangle en tout sens, d'inegale mesure. + Le moule plus tiré faict les angles pointuz, + Et l'ouvrage estendu faict les angles obtuz. + De mailles à la fin un beau quarré se faict, + Composé de quarrez, tout egal, et parfaict, + Quarré qui toutesfois se forme variable, + Or en lozange, et or en figure de table. + La bande de Lacis recouvert, à nos yeux, + Est comme un beau pourtraict de l'escharpe des cieux, + Dont chaque endroit ouvré nous represente un signe, + Le milieu, les degrez de l'Eclyptique ligne; + Le quarré, des vertus le symbole, et signal + De science du livre et bonnet doctoral, + Nous va representant l'Eglise et la Justice. + La façon de lacer figure l'exercice + D'enfiler une bague on bien l'art d'escrimer. + . . . . . + Le lacis recouvert sert de filet aux dames + Pour les hommes suprendre et enlacer leurs ames, + Elles en font collets, coiffures, et mouchoirs, + Des tentures de lits, tauayoles, pignoirs, + Et maint autre ornement dont elles les enlacent, + C'est pourquoi en laçant les femmes ne se lassent." + + In 4to, 76 ff., 72 plates. + + Frontispiece: Two ladies, with frames in their hands, labelled "Diana" + and "Pallas." On the top, an escutcheon per pale France and Medicis, + supported by Cupids. Beneath, Cupids with distaff and winding reels. + Between the sides of a pair of scissors is a cushion on which is + extended a piece of lacis, a "marguerite" in progress. (See Fig. 6.) + Above, "Petrus Firens fecit, I. le Clerc excud." Below, "A Paris par + Jean le Clerc Rue St. Jean de Latran à la Salamandre royalle." + + Dedication of Jean le Clerc "A la royne," then Marie de Medicis, + stating: "J'avois recouvré d'un personnage Anglois tres-expert en toute + sorte de Lingerie;" but who this Milour Mignerak may be, history tells + not. + + Then follows the "Discours du Lacis," a poem, of which we give an + extract. + + The privilege is signed Aug. 2, 1605. + + The patterns consist of the Queen's arms and cypher, 4 Scripture + subjects: Adam and Eve, the annunciation, Ecce Homo, and Magdalen; 4 + Elements, 4 Seasons; Roman Charity, Lucretia, Venus, and "Pluye d'or;" + 6 Arbes à fruit, 6 Pots à fleurs, 30 Carrés grands, moyens et petits; 6 + Bordures, and, what is quite a novelty, 6 "Passements faits au fuseau." + (See Fig. 13): the first mention of pillow lace in any of the French + pattern-books. + + + 98. + + [Sidenote: 1613. _Paris. F. Vinciolo._] + + Les secondes oeuvres, et subtiles inventions de Lingerie du Seigneur + Federic de Vinçiolo Venitien; nouvellement augmenté de plusieurs carrez + de point de rebort. Dediée à Madame, soeur unique du roy. Ou sont + representees plusieurs figures de Reseau, nombres de Carrez et Bordures + tous differents, le tout de poinct conté, avec autres sortes de Carrez de + nouvelles inventions non encore vues. + + {495}A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc, rue sainct Jean de Latran, à la + Salemandre, 1613. Avec privilege du Roy.[1356] + + A scarce and valuable volume, the fullest edition of the second part of + Vinciolo's work. + + 4to, 68 ff., 61 plates. + + It contains a-- + + SONNET AUX DAMES & DAMOYSELLES. + + "Esprits rarement beaux qui fuyez la paresse, + Je vous fais un present qui la pourra chasser, + Quand vous desirez de gayement passer + Vostre temps, et monstrer de vostre main l'adresse. + + Le present est utile et plein de gentillesse, + Il monstre les moyens de bien entrelasser. + Et faire au point couppé tout ce qu'on peut penser. + Cet exercise plaist à Pallas la Deesse. + + Par ses enseignemens, avec l'esguille on fait + Des fleurons, des oyseaux, en ouvrage parfait, + Des chiffres et des noeuds, tels que l'amour desire. + + Aymez cet exercise, et vous y occupez, + Et puis vous cognoistrez que sur les points couppez + En diverses façons quelque portrait se tire." + + The author's address to the reader, and a + + Dedication to "Madame, soeur unique du roy" (Catherine de Bourbon, + sister of Henry IV., married, 1599, to the Duc de Bar), signed by Le + Clerc. + + On the second plates are her arms, a lozenge, France and Navarre with + crown and cordelière, and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated + frontispiece, supported on either side by a genius (?) working at a + frame and point coupé drapery. + + 7 Scripture subjects: The Salutation, St. Sacrement, Passion, + Crucifixion, Adoration of the Kings, etc.; the number of the stitches + given to each. + + 2 Stomachers, and various patterns of "carrez " and borders. 2 of + "Point de rebort." + + At the end is the "Discours du Lacis," already printed by Mignerak. + + + 99. + + [Sidenote: 1616. _Rome. E. C. Parasole._] + + Teatro delle nobili et virtuose donne, dove si rappresentano varij + disegni di lavori novamente inventati et disegnati da Elisabetta Catanea + Parasole Romana. + + Dedicata alla Serenissima Principessa Donna Elisabetta Borbona d' + Austria, Principessa di Spagna, da E. C. Parasole. Data di Roma a di 5 + Marzo 1616.[1357] Other editions, 1620, 1625, and 1636. The last is + dedicated to the Grand Duchess of {496}Tuscany, and has the Medici and + Della Rovere arms in the title-page. + + Obl. 4to, 47 ff., 46 plates (44 in Prince Massimo's copy) beautifully + executed, the titles printed to each plate, as "Lavori di punti in + aria, Merletti di ponti reticella, Merletti a piombini," etc. (See Fig. + 15.) + + + 100. + + [Sidenote: 1600. _Venice. I. C. Parasole._] + + Pretiosa gemme delle virtuose donne dore si vedono bellisimi lavori di + ponto in aria, reticella, dimaglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella + Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni + altri bellisimi lavori nuovamente inventate. Stampata in Venetea ad + instantia de Luchino Gargano MDC.[1358] + + + 101. + + [Sidenote: 1625. _Rome. I. C. Parasole._] + + Gemma pretiosa delle virtuose donne, dore si vedono bellisimi lavori de + Ponti in Aria, Reticella, di Maglia, e Piombini disegnatida Isabella + Catanea Parasole. + + In Rome, appreso Guliegno Facciotti, 1625. + + + 102. + + [Sidenote: 1618. _Frankfort on the Mayn. D. Meyer._] + + Zierat Buch, von allerhandt Kutschnur, Schleyer deckel, Krägen, + Leibgürtel, Passmenten, Händschug, Wehrgeheng und Schubenehen, + Messerscheyden, Secklen, Früchten, Blumen und ands. mehr. + + Allen Perlenbefftern, Nederin, Lehrinngen und andern welche lust zu + dieser Kunst tragen, sehr nützlich. + + Inn diese Format zusammen ordiniert und gsetzt durch Daniel Meyer + Mahlern. 1ster Theil. + + Franckfuhrt am Mayn, bey Eberhardt Kusern zu finden. + + 11 ff., 9 plates. + + _Translation._ + + Decoration book of all sorts of Cords, Veil covers, Collars, Belts, + Laces, Gloves, Shoulder knots, shoe-seams (?), Knife sheaths, Bags, + Fruit, Flowers, and other things besides. Very useful to all + Beadworkers, Seamstresses, Apprentices, and others, who take a pleasure + or are fond of this art. Arranged and put into this form by D. M. M. + 1st part. + + + 103. + + [Sidenote: 1619. _Leipsic. A. Bretschneider._] + + New Modelb[)u]ch Darinnen allerley kunstliche Virsirung und Müster + artiger Z[)u]ege und schöner Bl[)u]mmen zu zierlichen Ueberschlagen, + Haupt Schurtz Schn[)u]ptüchern Hauben Handschuhen, Uhren (?) gehenzen, + Kampfütern [)u]nd dergleichen auf Muhler naht und Seidenst[)u]cker arbeit + gantz Kunstlich gemahlt {497}und vorgerissen, dergleichen sie bevorn noch + nie in Druck ausgegangen. 16 Leipzicht 19. + + Inn Verleg[)u]ng Henning Grosseren, de J[)u]ngeren Andreas Bretschneider + Mahller.[1359] + + _Translation._ + + New pattern-book, in which all sorts of artistic ornamentations and + patterns of pretty stuffs and beautiful flowers for covers for Head, + Aprons, and Pocket-handkerchiefs, Caps, Gloves, Clock cases, Comb + Cases, and such like, artistically sketched from painter and silk + embroiderer's work, and which have never before gone out of print. + + Small folio, 53 plates, and half a sheet of text, containing the + dedication of the work to Madame Catherine von Dorstats, née Löser. + There appear to be 3 plates wanting. + + + 104. + + [Sidenote: 1624. _London._] + + A Schole House for the Needle. 1624.[1360] + + Obl. 4to. Was sold at the White Knight's sale for £3 15s. + + + 105. + + [Sidenote: 1620. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._] + + Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel quale si dimostra + in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati e punti in + aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Retcello, e d' ogn' altra sorte, Cosi per + Fregi, per merli e Rosette, che con Aco si viano hoggidi per lutta + l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à + Mozzete. Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a' Lavori fatti da Lugretia + Romana. In Venetia, appresso Allessandro de Vecchi, 1620.[1361] + + 27 ff., obl. 8vo. + + + 106. + + [Sidenote: 1625. _Venice. Lugretia Romana._] + + Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne, Libro primo, nel quale si dimostra + in varij Dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in + Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Reticello, e d' ogni altre sorte, cosi per + Freggi, per Merli, e Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano per tutta l'Europa. + E molte delle quali Mostre possono servire ancora per opere a Mazzete. + Con le dichiarazioni a le Mostre, a Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana. + + In Venetia appresso Alessandro de Vecchi MDCXXV. Si vendono in Venetia al + Ponte de' Baretteri alla libreria delle tre Rose.[1362] + + Lady Wilton, in her _Art of Needlework_, quotes a copy dated 1620. + + Obl. 4to, ff. 27. Portrait of Maria d'Aragon. + + + {498}107. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Venice. Lucretia Romana._] + + Ornamento nobile, per ogni gentil matrona, dove si contiene bavari, frisi + d' infinita bellezza, lavori, per Linzuoli, Traverse, e Facuoli, Piena di + Figure, Ninfe, Satiri, Grotesche, Fontane, Musiche, Caccie di Cervi, + Uccelli, ed altri Animali. Con ponti in aria, fiamenghi, et tagliati, con + Adornamenti bellissimi, da imperare, per ogni Virtuosa Donna, che si + diletta di perfettamente cucire. Opera, per Pittori, Scultori, e + disegnatori giovevole alle lor professioni, Fatta da Lucretia Romana, il + quinto volume di Suoi lavori. Dedicato alle Virtuose donne, in + Venetia.[1363] + + Fol., 20 plates. + + Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is + represented under a Doric porch, standing on a tortoise, symbol of a + home-loving woman. (See No. 77.) She holds a ball of thread in her + hand. Behind, on the left, are two women at work; on the right, a + sculptor chiselling a statue of Minerva. + + The plates, which are rich and beautiful, are each accompanied by a + short explanation, as "Degna de esser portata de ogni imperatrice;" + "Hopera bellissima che per il piu il Signora Duchesa et altre Signore + si servano per li suoi Lavori;" "Questa bellissima Rosette usano auco + le gentildonne Venetiane da far traverse," etc. (Fig. 173.) + + The bavari are executed in three different stitches: punto d' aieri, p. + flamingo, and p. tagliato. This author and Vecellio give Flemish + patterns (punti Fiamenghi). They consist mostly of rosettes and stars + (gotico). + + + 108. + + [Sidenote: 1623. _Paris._] + + Les excellents eschantillons, patrons et modelles du Seigneur Federic de + Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de + Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et + dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le + Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege + du Roy, 1623.[1364] + + In 4to, 56 ff. + + The old frontispiece and same "Avertissement." + + Dedication to the Queen, Anne of Austria. + + The Goddess Pallas invented "les ouvrages de lingerie, le poinct + couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de + dentelles, tant pour se desennuyer que se parer, par l'artifice de ses + ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se + voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption + fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste + exercise." Fastrade and Constance, wives of the Emperor Charlemagne and + of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs + ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has + reached perfection through the works of Vinciolo. I reprint and again + increase his work, which I dedicate to your Majesty, to whom I presume + they will be agreeable; the subject of which it treats is "une + invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne--vous estant autant Royne + des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes." Signed, "la Veufve de + feu Iean le Clerc." + + Same sonnet. + + Privilege for six years, dated Paris, last day of March, 1623. + + 55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au + fuzeau" (see Figs. 14 and 15), and alphabet. + + [Illustration: Fig. 173. + + BAVARO DI PONTO D' AERE.--Con belissime figure ed altri flori. + + "BAVARI."--From _Ornamento mobile_ of Lucretia Romana. + + _To face page 498._] + + + {499}109. + + A Schole Howse for the Needle. Teaching by sundry sortes of patterns and + examples of different kindes, how to compose many faire workes; which + being set in order and forme according to the skill and understanding of + the workwoman will, no doubt, yield profit unto such as live by the + needle and give good content to adorne the worthy. London printed in Shoe + Lane at the "Faulcon" by Richard Shorleyker, 1632. + + TO THE READER. + + Gentle Reader, I would have you know that the Diversities of Examples + which you shall find in this "Schoole-howse for the Needle" are only + but patternes which serve but to helpe and inlarge your invention. But + for the disposing of them into forme and order of Workes that I leave + to your own skill and understanding. Whose ingenious and well practised + wits will soe readily (I doubt not) compose them into such beautiful + formes as will be able to give content, both to the workers and the + wearers of them. And againe for your behoafe I have in the end of this + booke made two scales or checker patternes which by enlarging or + contracting into greater or lesser squares you may enlarge or make + lesser any of the saide patternes and examples in the booke or any + other whatever. + + VALE! + + And because I would not have any one mistaken in any of these patternes + contayned in this Booke, for some peradventure will look to find workes + set out in order as they should be wrought with the needle or florished + upon the Tent, &c. But as I have said before in the beginning of this + Booke, that, that is here published are only but diversitie of + patternes, out of which the workwoman is to take her choice of one or + more at her pleasure and so have them drawne out into forme and order + of worke. Of which skill if it may be I would have serving-men (such as + have time enough) to practice and be skilful in which will be quickly + learned if they would, with a little patience applie their mindes to + practise it. A quarter of the time that they spend in playing at cards, + tables, quaffing and drinking would make them excellent in this + knowledge especially such as are ingenious and indued with good wits, + as for the most part all of them have; Againe it is a thing that no + doubt would yield them both praise and profit, beside the pleasure and + delight it would be unto them, and a good inducement to drawe on others + of their own ranke and qualitie to the like practice and imitation. + + + 110. + + [Sidenote: 1632. _London._] + + Here followeth certaine patternes of Cut-workes; and but once Printed + before. Also sundry sorts of Spots, as Flowers, Birds, and Fishes, &c., + and will fitly serve to be wrought, some {500}with Gould, some with + Silke, and some with Gewell (_sic_) or otherwise at your pleasure. + + London; Pinted (_sic_) in Shoe-lane, at the signe of the Faulcon, by + Richard Shorleyker. 1632.[1365] + + Obl. 4to. + + The copy in the Bodleian is probably due to the above. It has no date + and varies in title: "Newly invented and never published before," with + "crewell in coullers," etc.; and "Never but once published before." + Printed by Rich. Shorleyker. + + 33 patterns and title. + + + 111. + + [Sidenote: 1640.] + + The needles excellency, a new booke wherein are divers admirable workes + wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the + pleasure and profit of the industrious. Printed for James Boler, &c., + 1640.[1366] + + "Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower + garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to + the patterns are sundry poems in a commendation of the needle, and + describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their + skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of + Pembroke. These poems were composed by John Taylor, the Water Poet. It + appears the work had gone through twelve impressions.... From the + costume of a lady and gentleman in one of the patterns, it appears to + have been originally published in the reign of James I."--(Douce.) From + this description of the frontispiece, it seems to be copied from + Sibmacher. + + "The Needle's Excellency, or a new Book of Patterns, with a poem by + John Taylor, in Praise of the Needle." London, 1640. Obl. 4to, engraved + title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes, + _Bibliographer's Manual_. New edit., by H. Bohn). Another copy of the + same date, marked 12th edition, is in the Library of King's College, + Cambridge. It consists of title, four leaves with the poem, subscribed + John Taylor, and 31 leaves of copper cuts of patterns. + + + 112. + + [Sidenote: 1642 _Pistoja. P. A. Fortunato._] + + Le Pompe di Minerva, per le nobili e virtuose donne che con industriosa + mano di trattenersi dilettano di far Rezze, maglia quadra, punti in aria, + punti in tagliati, punti a reticello, cosi per fregio come per merletti e + rosette di varie sorti, si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per + tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più + celebri autori di tal professione. In Pistoja, per Piero A. Fortunato. + + In 8vo obl., dedicated to Caterina Giraldini, in Cellesi. August 20 + 1642.[1367] + + + {501}113. + + [Sidenote: 1666. _Nuremberg._] + + Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins + arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler. + + Obl. 4to, 3 sheets of text, 50 plates. + + Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20, + 1666.[1368] + + + 114. + + In the Bib. Imp. (Gravures, L. h. 4. c.) is a vol. lettered "Guipure, + gravures burin," containing a collection of patterns engraved on + copper, 43 plates, four of which are double, pasted in the book, + without title or date. Pomegranates, narcissus, lilies, carnations, + most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and + Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks + (Zwickel) of stockings and other patterns. + + + 115. + + [Sidenote: 1676. _Nuremberg. C. Gerharts._] + + Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und + Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg, + Christoff Gerharts, 1676. + + 4to obl., engraved title and printed list; 42 wood plates, 4 large. + + + 116. + + [Sidenote: 1722. _Paris._] + + Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux + mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du + père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une + mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à + Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris, + 1722.[1369] + + 72 geometric squares, with directions how to make them useful to + architects, painters, embroiderers, "tous ceux qui se servent de + l'aiguille," and others. + + + 117. + + [Sidenote: 1784. _Nuremberg and Leipzig. Christoph Weigel._] + + Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand + Zierrathen, wie auch viele neue Zwickel, nebst Buchstaben und Zahlen, + sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich + sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel + und Schneider. 1784.[1370] + + + {502}118. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. F. M. Helmin._] + + Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu + ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs dritter Theil, worinnen fleiszige + Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches + Nadel-Exercitium, beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden Belegenheiten zu + haben allerhand noch nie vorgeko[=m]ene Muster zu Deso gebrauch, vorlegt + und en die Hand gegeben werden von Fr. Margaretha Helmin, zu finden in + Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371] + + Oblong fol. + + + 119. + + [Sidenote: _N. D. Nuremberg. J. Chr. Weigel._] + + Zierlich webende Minerva, oder neu erfundenes Kunst- und Bild-Buch der + Weber- und Zeichner-Arbeit, worinnen treue Anweisung geschieht, wie man + kunstlich wirken und schöne Arbeit verfertigen soll, von der + vierschäfftigen an, bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige. Nurnberg + (Johann Christoph Weigel). No date.[1372] + + 49 plates in sheets. + + + + +{503}GLOSSARY OF TERMS. + + +_Bars._ See _Brides_. + +_Bead Edge._ A simple heading for pillow lace. + +_Bobbins._ Small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the thread is +wound for the purpose of lace-making. They are frequently ornamented with +patterns pricked or stained, and polished. They are weighted with "gingles" +or "jingles" (_i.e._, beads, coins, seals, seeds, or various articles). + +_Brides._ A small strip or connection (1) of threads overcast with +buttonhole stitches, or (2) of twisted or plaited threads. It is used +instead of a ground-work of net; the word is French, its English equivalent +being _pearl-tie_. The French word is chiefly employed. + +_Brides ornées_ = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls. + +_Buttonhole Stitch._ One of the chief stitches in needle-made lace; also +known as _close stitch_, _Point noué_, and _Punto a Feston_. + +_Cartisane._ A strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or +metal thread, used to form a pattern. + +_Close Stitch_ = Buttonhole stitch. + +_Cordonnet._ The outline to ornamental forms. The cordonnet consists (1) of +a single thread, or (2) of several threads worked together to give the +appearance of one large thread, or (3) of a thread or horsehair overcast +with buttonhole stitches. In England called _gimp_. + +_Couronnes._ Ornaments to the cordonnet. When they ornament the raised +cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as _fleurs volantes_. + +_Coxcombs_ = Bars. + +_Dentélé_ = Scalloped border. + +_Droschel._ Flemish word used in Belgium for net-ground made with bobbins. + +_Dressed Pillow._ A term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all +accessories necessary are in their proper positions.[1373] + +{504}_Edge._ There are two edges to lace; the outer, which in trimmings and +flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the _engrêlure_ +or _footing_. + +_Engrêlure_ = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to +the material it is to decorate. + +_Entoilage._ French term for a plain mesh ground or galloon.[1374] + +_Fil de Crin._ A thick or heavy outline or cordonnet.[1374] + +_Fil de Trace._ The name by which the outlines of needle-made laces are +distinguished.[1374] + +_Fillings._ A word occasionally used for _modes_ or _jours_; fancy stitches +employed to fill in enclosed spaces in needle-made and bobbin laces.[1374] + +_Flax._ Is composed of the filaments of the fibrous portion of _Linum +usitatissimum_, an annual, native of Europe, and from it linen thread is +spun. That of Flanders is the best for lace-making. + +_Fleurs Volantes._ See _Couronnes_. + +_Fond._ Identical with _champ_, _entoilage_, and _treille_. The groundwork +of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which +it surrounds and supports. Grounds are divided into _fonds claires_, +_brides claires_, and _brides ornées_. The _fond claires_ include the +_Réseau_ or net-patterned grounds. _Fond de Neige_ is also known as _Oeil +de Perdrix_. + +_Fond Simple._ Sometimes called _Point de Lille_; is the purest, lightest, +and most transparent of all grounds. The sides of the meshes are not partly +plaited as in Brussels and Mechlin, nor wholly plaited as in Valenciennes +and Chioggia; but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads +round each other, and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the +threads over each other. [See _Grounds_.][1374] + +_Footing._ See _Engrêlure_. + +_Gimp._ The _pattern_ which rests on the ground or is held together by +brides. The work should not, however be confounded with the material gimp, +which was formerly called _guipure_. + +In Honiton and the Midlands, the word denotes the coarse glazed thread used +to raise certain edges of the design.[1374] + +_Gingles._ A name given in Buckinghamshire, etc., to the bunches of +coloured beads hung on to bobbins by means of brass wire, in order to give +extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads.[1374] + +{505}_Groppo_ [Italian]. A knot or tie. + +_Grounds._ The grounds of laces are divided into two classes, one being +called the _bride_, the other the _Réseau_. The _bride_ ground is formed +with plain or ornamental bars, in order to connect the ornaments forming +the pattern. The _Réseau_ ground is a net made with the needle or with +bobbins, to connect the ornaments forming the pattern. + +_Guipure._ A lace-like trimming of twisted threads. The word is now used to +loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern. _Guipure d'Art_ is the name +given to modern darned netting.[1375] + +_Heading_ = _Footing_, _engrêlure_. + +_Jours._ Ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace. +The earliest forms of _jours_ may be seen in Venetian point lace, where +they are introduced into the centre of a flower or other such device. +[_Modes_ are identical with _jours_.] + +_Legs_ = Bars. + +_Mat_, or _Math_. The closely-plaited portions of flowers or leaves in +bobbin-made lace; also the closely-worked portion of any lace.[1375] + +_Modes._ See _Jours_. + +_Oeil de Perdrix._ See _Fond_. + +_Orris._ A corruption of Arras. The term is now used to denote galloon for +upholstering purposes. In the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of +gold and silver.[1375] + +_Passement._ Until the seventeenth century, laces, bands, and gimps were +called _passements à l'aiguille_; bobbin laces, _passements au fuseau_. At +present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both +needle-point and bobbin laces are worked. + +_Passementerie._ Now used for all kinds of fringes, ribbons, and gimp for +dress trimmings. + +_Pearls_, or _Purls_ = _Bars_. + +_Pearl edge_, or _Purl edge_. A narrow thread edge of projecting loops used +to sew upon lace as a finish to the edge.[1375] + +_Pearlin_, or _Pearling_ [Scotch]. Lace. + +_Picot._ Minute loops worked on to the edge of a _bride_ or _cordonnet_, or +added as an enrichment to a flower--as in the case of rose point, in which +_picots_ play an important part. + +{506}_Pillow Lace._ Lace made on the pillow, by twisting and plaiting +threads. The French term is _dentelle au fuseau_. + +_Pizzo_ [Italian]. Lace. + +_Ply_ = A single untwisted thread. + +_Point Lace._ Lace made with the point of the needle. The French term is +_Point à l'aiguille_. The term point has been misused to describe varieties +of lace, such as _Point d'Angleterre_, _Point de Malines_, etc., which are +laces made on the pillow, and not with the point of the needle. + +_Point de Raccroc._ A stitch used by lace-makers to join _réseau_ ground. + +_Point Noué_ = Buttonhole stitch. + +_Point Plat._ A French term for flat point executed without a raised +cordonnet or outline cord.[1376] + +_Pricked._ The term used in pillow lace-making to denote the special +marking out of the pattern upon parchment. + +_Pricker._ A short instrument used in bobbin lace to prick holes in the +pattern to receive the pins.[1376] + +_Punto a Feston_ = Buttonhole stitch. + +_Purls_ = _Brides_. + +_Purlings_ = A stitch used in Honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made +sprigs.[1376] + +_Réseau._ Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various +manners, and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate +manners. The French term, as here given, is generally used in preference to +any English equivalent. + +_Réseau Rosacé._ See _Argentella_ (Ch. ARGENTAN). + +_Rouissage._ The process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun +for lace-making. + +_Rezél_, _Reseuil._ See LACIS, Chap. II. + +_Runners._ The name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in +bobbin lace are known. + +_Sam cloth._ Old name for a sampler. + + + + +{507}INDEX + + + Aberdeen, qualifications of schoolmistress of, 431 n1209 + + Aberdein, Mrs. Frank, cited, 400 n1140 + + Abrahat, Mrs., pensioned by Queen Anne, 347 + + Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638 + + Abruzzi, the, lace-making in, 68 + + Addison, cited, 349 + + Addo, Marquis d', 459 n1264 + + Adelaide, Queen, 409 and n1155, n1156 + + Adélaïde de France, 182 + + Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5 + + Agriculture, women employed in, lace-makers contrasted with, 370 + + Aquesseau, Chancellor d', quoted, 264 + + Alb lace, at Granada, 92 + + Albert, Archduke of Austria, 113 n326 + + ------ Museum (Exeter), tallies in, 78 n242 + + Albissola, lace manufacture at, 75, 77 and n240, 78, 79 and n246 + + Alcuid, embroidery taught by, 6 + + Alenches, 249 + + Alençon + numbers of lace-workers at Chantilly and, (1851), 257 n688, + refugees from, in 18th century, 347 + + --------, Duke d', 140 n395 + + -------- lace (see Point d'Alençon) + + Alice, Princess, bridal dress of, 409 + + Almagro, lace industry at, 102 and n297, 103 n305 + + Aloe thread, Florentine use of, 93 n273 + + ---- thread lace + Greek, 86 + Italian, 79 and n245 + Portuguese, 107 + Spanish, 91, 93, 99, 101 + + Alost Valenciennes, ground stitch of, 133 + + Altar-cloths, + alternate designs on, 24 + Bock collection, in, 23 + Prague, at (by Anne of Bohemia), 9 + + Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23 + + Altenburg, 268 + + Alva, Duke of, 366 n1085 + + Alvin, M., 480 n1322 + + Amelia, Princess, 128 + + America, + impulse given to lace industry by U.S., 187 + lace imported to, from-- + Bailleul, 241 + England (baby lace) 385 + Grammont, 134 + Italy, 75, 79 + Mirecourt, 253 + Portugal, 106 + Saxony, 263 + Spain, 102 + Puritan lace-makers in, 372 n1099 + war with, effect of, on lace trade, 408 + + Amsterdam, establishment of lace fabric at, 259 + + Anderson, quoted, 74, 83, 101, 124, 271,288, 371 n1093, 384, 396; + cited, 264 n709, 265 n713, 286, 397 + + --------, Lady, robbery at house of, 346 + + Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196 + + Anne of Austria, + influence of, on French fashions, 147, 150 + Mechlin veil of, 125-126 and n356 + pattern-book dedicated to, 144, 498 + pilgrimage to Thierzac, 248 + presents of English lace from Henrietta Maria to, 330 and n961, 401 + + ---- of Bohemia, Queen (wife of Richard II.), altar-cloth by, 9 + + ---- of Denmark, + cost of lace of, 317 and n904, 320 and n925 + Elizabeth's old clothes presented to, 320 + English home industries encouraged by, 319 + foreign lace purchased by, 327 + funeral of, 325 and n934 + + ---- of England (Queen Anne) + household management of, 174 n516 + Mechlin lace of, 126 and n360 + period of, 347-350 + + Anspach, 265 + + --------, Margrave of, 178 + + Anti-Gallican Society + Edinburgh and Dublin Societies contemporaneous with, 429 + prizes awarded by, 119, 262, 297, 355 and n1058, 374 and nn, 380, 395, + 398, 404 + records of, cited, 373 + + Antwerp + book sale at (1864), 482 + Brussels lace made at, 130 + Mechlin lace made at, 125 + -------- lace + arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 + Brussels lace compared with, 118 + first mention of, 129 and n367 + Spanish market for, 129-130 + + -------- lace-makers, in London (1618-1688), 129 n366 + + Anzola, M., 474 + + Application lace, 122; + flowers, 252 + + Appliqueuse, work of, 122 + + Aprons, laced, 309 and n873, 338, 356 and n1062 + + Aranda, Madame d', 98 n280 + + Arbroath, effigy formerly in church of, 418 + + Ardee, braid and cord lace made at, 446 + + Ardfert Abbey, lace shroud found at, 436 + + Argentan, 202 and n569 + + -------- lace. _See_ Point d'Argentan + + Argentella, 78 n244, 193 and n555 + + Argentine of Dorset, 310 n877 + + Argyle, Duchess of. _See_ Hamilton + + Armada pattern lace of Queen Charlotte, 397 + + Armstrong, Mrs. Rachel, 438 + + Arnold, E., cited, 466, 469 n1286, 471 n1299 + + Arras + early industries of, 239 + gold lace of, 240 + lace industry of, 238-240 + lace of, compared with that of Lille, 235, 240; + with that of Mirecourt, 252 + number of lace workers (1851), 257 n688 + + Arundel, Countess of, 12 + + --------, Lady, quoted, 395 + + Assizes, Maiden, custom of presenting laced gloves at, 337 n991 + + Asti, Baroness A. d', 79 + + Athens, white silk lace of, 86 + + Atterbury, Bishop, lace smuggled in coffin of, 361 + + Auberville, M. Dupont, exhibits by, 58; + cited, 78 + + Aubry, Felix, quoted, 132 n376, 160 n466, 228 n614, 231, 257 n688; + cited, 184, 285, 292 + + Audiganne, A., cited, 228 n614 + + Augsburg, 266, 267 + + Augusta, Princess, marriage of, 359 + + Aumale, Madame d', 183 + + Aurillac, 154, 246-250 + + Austria + Albert Archduke, 113 n326 + Anne of. _See_ Anne + lace of, 268 + + Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100 + + Auvergne + ancient names preserved in, 246 n658 + lace exhibited (1867), 246 + Maltese guipures made in, 88 + mignonette made in (1665), 35 + number of lace-makers in (1851), 257 n688 + petition of lace-makers in (1767), 64 + thread used in, 245 + + --------, Mgr. de la Tour d', 183 + + Auvray, quoted, 224 n611 + + Avaux, M. le Comte d', 155 + + Avrillion, Mlle., 177 n526; + cited, 184 n541 + + Axmouth, lace-workers of, 409 n1157 + + Aylesbury, lace industry of, 378, 379 + + Baby lace, 385 + + Babylon, embroidery of, 3 + + Backhouse, James, 300 + + Bacon, Lord, 318 + + Baden, Princess of, 178 + + Bailey's Dictionary, quoted, 303 n830 + + Bailleul, 241 and n647, 257 n688 + + Baillie, James, 432 + + Baker, Robert, 437 + + Baldachino in Italian lace, 66 + + "Ballad of Hardyknute" quoted, 24 + + Bamberg, collection of German Point at, 267 + + Bampton, Mr., 343 + + Bands + Falling. _See_ Falling Bands + Lawyers', 337 + + Bannatyne, James, 422 + + Baptism ceremony, excess of lace at, 352 n1046 + + Barante, M. de, cited, 111 + + Barbara, Princess of Portugal (1729), 105 + + Barbes, 168 n496, 180 and n533 + + ------ pleines, 234 and n627, n628 + + Barcelona, + lace industry of, 91, 101 and n294, 103 n305 + pillows used at, 103 n305 + silk of, used in Maltese lace-making, 88; + used for blondes, 103 + + Bard, William, 403 + + Barleycorn net, 448 + + Barry, Madame Du. _See_ du Barry + + Bars, Genoese lace joined by, 74, 75 n236 + + Baseus, N., 470 + + Basing, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320 + + Basset, Anne, 290 + + ------, Mary, 291 + + Bassompierre, 142 + + Bath and West of England Society, 410 and n1159 + + Bath Brussels lace, 405 + + Baucher, Canon, 226 + + Bauta, 57 and n193 + + Bavari, 55 + + Bavaria, Queen of, 421 + + Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n393 + + Bay, Rudolf, 274 + + Bayeux, + black lace of, 214, 226 + Chantilly shawls made at, 215 + lace industry, establishment of, 226; + Lefébure's development of, 228; + number of lace-makers engaged in, 228 n614 + mignonette made at (1665), 35 n109 + point d'Alençon of, 200 + point de Marli of, 225 and n613 + point de raccroc of, 120 + Spanish silk laces contrasted with those of, 103 + Tapestry, 6 + + Bayman, Mrs., 107 + + Bayonne, linen work of (1679), 79 n248 + + Beale, Mrs., thefts from, 349 + + Bearing cloths, 309 and n871 + + Beau Nash on aprons, 356 + + Beaucaire, fair at, 43 n136 + + Beaufort, Duchesse of, edicts ignored by, 142; + extracts from inventory of, 143 and n413, n414, n415. + + Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n351 + + Beaumont and Fletcher, quoted, 292 n788, 296 and n805, 315 and n896, 324, + 363 n1070, 365 + + Beauregard, 248 and n664 + + Becket, Thomas à, 202 and n569 + + Beckford, quoted, 90, 98 n280 + + Beckmann, quoted, 92 n267 + + Bedford, number of lace-makers in, 377 + + --------, Lady, 320 + + --------, Duke of, 360 + + --------, Lord, 348 + + Bedfordshire lace, 88, 375-377, 385 + + Beds, lace trimmings for, 27 n84, 98 and n280 + + Beer (Devon), lace-workers at, 409 and n1157, 416 n1169, 417 and n1171 + + Beggars' lace, 34 + + Béguinage, 126, 130, 133 + + "Bèle, Prerie," 144 + + Belev lace, 283 + + Belgium (See also Flanders and Brabant) + lace industry (_See also_ Antwerp, Brussels etc.) + application exported to France, annual value of, 252 + centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 + development of, 138 + female education in, 112-113 + guipures made by, 410 + importance of, 112 and n324 + numbers employed in (1861), 112 + pillow lace. _See_ Valenciennes + Valenciennes industry transferred to, 232 + lace schools in, 113-115 + linens and flax of, 405-407 + pedlar lace-sellers in, 44 and n143 + smuggling lace of, into France, 116 + thread, fineness of, 119 n339 + weaving of lace in fourteenth century in, 109 + + Bell, Mrs., old lace of, 384 + + Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n368 + + Bellini, lace in picture by, 47 + + Ben, Miss Mary, 398 + + Beni Hassan, figures at, 1 + + Beresford, Lord John George, 443 + + Berkeley, Bishop, quoted, 371 n1092 + + Berlin, number of lace fabrics in (_circ._ 1685), 264 + + Bernhardi, N. R., cited, 497 n1359 + + Berry lace industry, 256 + + Berthe (mother of Charlemagne), 5 + + Bertin, Mlle., 181 + + Bertini, Cav., 462 n1270 + + Bess of Hardwick, 11 + + Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155 + + Bible printed by Quentell, 460 + + Bidney, Miss Jane, 409 + + Bigazzi, M., 468 n1293, 471 n1300 + + Billament lace, 48 and n159, 299 and n817 + + Binche, royal edict concerning, 135 and n381 + + ------ lace, 118, 135 and n383, 136, 212 + + Bindoni, G. A., 471 + + Bingham, Lady, 439 + + Bisette (bizette), 33 and n102, 210, 256 + + Bishops, denouncement of ruffs by, 316-317; + ruffs worn by, 318 + + Black lace + Caen fabric, 225 + Caen, Bayeux and Chantilly, similarity of fabrics of, 226 + Calvados, 223 + Chantilly fabric, 212-215 and n584, 226 + East Flanders fabric, 134 + England, imported to, from Low Countries, 117 n330; + fashion introduced into, 153 n444; + Lille fabric popular in, 237 + fond d'Alençon, ground, 214 + France, fashion introduced into, 153-154 + Le Puy fabric, 245 + Liège fabric, 137 n391 + Lille fabric, 236, 237 + loom-made, 432 n1212 + masks of, 177 + Saxony fabric, 263 + Turin, at court of, 153 n445 + + Blanche of Lancaster, 285 n755 + + Blandford, lace industry of, 344, 396 and nn, 397 n1134 + + Blessington, Countess of, lace collection of, 369 + + Blois, Mlle. de, 161-162 and n472 + + Blonde de fil, 34 and n108, 237 + + Blonde-workers, wages of, 225 + + Blondes + Almagro, at, 102 n297 + Barcelona silk used for, 103 + Caen, of, 224 + Catalonian, 102 + England, introduction of manufacture into, in George II.'s time, 356; + made at Sherborne, 397 + French court, at, 182 + Genoese manufacture of, 75 + Le Puy, of, 245 + Spanish, 103 n305 + Vélay, of, 244 + white, 214 + + Bobbin lace (_See also_ Pillow lace) + Belgian, 123 + bobbins used for, 296 n798 + pillow lace a term for, 32 + point duchesse, 123 + royal inventories, mentioned in, 295 n797 + value of, per oz. (Queen Elizabeth's time), 295 n797 + + ------ net + English machine-made, 447-450 + France, first made in, 187 + + Bobbins + description of, 32, 33, 295 n795, 391 and n1127 + Honiton, at, 415 n1166 + long, used for bobbin lace, 296 n798 + materials used for, 32, 74 n235 + number of, 33 n101 + Peniche, at, 106 n314 + + Bock, Dr., collection of, 23 and n74, 24 + + Boenen, G., 311 + + Bohemia, modern lace of, 262 + + Boileau, quoted, 159 + + Boislaunay, Epoux Malbiche de, 206 + + _Boke of Curtasye_, quoted, 290 + + Bolbec lace, 218 + + Bolingbroke, Lord, 351 + + Bologna, lace-making at, 68, 81 n248 + + Bonald, Cardinal de, 183 + + Bone, bobbins made of, 74 n235 + + ---- lace + bobbin lace distinguished from, 296 n798 + explanation of term, 400 + + ---- pins (_See also_ Bobbins), 295 n795 + + Bone-work, why so called, 294 + + Bonzy, Monseigneur de, 154-155 + + Books, parchment patterns on covers of, 77 + + Boot tops, 145, 150 + + Bordeaux fair, 43 n136 + + Borlase, Sir Henry, 378. + + Bosse, Abraham, engravings by, 146, 147, 149 + + Bottles used as light reflectors, 390 and n1125 + + Boufflers, Governor, 236. + + Bourbon, Catherine de, 144, 482, 494 + + --------, Duchesse de, extracts from the inventory of, 120 n344, 125 + n354, 128 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, 195 n560 + + Bourg-Argental, 224 + + Bourges, 5, 256 + + --------, Archbishop of, 118 and n336 + + Bourgogne, Duc de, 99 n283 + + Bowdon, Miss, 417 + + Bowen, Emanuel, quoted, 405 + + Bowes, Sir Robert, 38, 298 + + Bowie, J., 430 n1207 + + Bowll, William, 308. + + Boys as lace-makers, 263, 377, 413, 414 + + Brabant (_See also_ Belgium) + lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274 + point de Sedan, attributed to, 254 + + Brabant lace. _See_ Brussels, Mechlin, etc. + + Braid, lace a term used for, 26 + + ------ lace (Devonshire), 414 n1156 + + ------ and cord lace, 446. + + Braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point, 410 and n1159 + + Branscombe, lace-workers of, 409 n1138 + + Brazil, lace of, 108. + + Brazza, Contessa di, cited, 71 n222, 75 n237, 78 n244; + quoted, 75 n236; + lace school under direction of, 81 n248 + + Bremen, refusal of, to receive strangers, 264 + + Brennar, Mr., 442 n1232 + + Brereton, Miss Elinor, 438 + + Bretagne, 229 and n617 + + Bretschneider, A., 496 + + Briattes, Jean-Ph., 225 n613 + + Bribes of lace, 351 n1045 + + Bridal veils, 78 + + Bride ground. _See_ Argentan ground. + + ------ lace, 302 and n829 + + Brides + definition of, 31 and n91 + Milanese lace, in, 75 n237 + Spanish point, in, 58 + thread guipures, in, 39, 40 + _vrai réseau_ the successor of, 406 + + Bridgewater Baptist Church, manifesto of, 403 and n1144 + + "Britannia Languens" (1680), cited, 54 and n183, 192 + + Brittany, 229 and n617 + + Brithnoth, exploits of, in embroidery, 6 + + Broderie des Indes, 229 + + -------- de Malines. _See_ Mechlin lace + + Brooks, Mr., speech of, quoted, 329. + + Brotherton, Mr., invention of lace loom by, 432 n1212 + + Brown, Rawdon, cited, 345 n1025 + + Bruce, Mr. Collingwood, cited, 6 + + Bruges + collection of lace at, 138 + export trade with France, value of, 241 + guipure de Flandres of, 123, 133 + Valenciennes made at, character of, 232 n624 + + Brunet, H., cited, 161 n472, 236 n633, 459, 461, 476; + quoted, 466 + + Brunfaut, M. Duhayon, 131 and n374 + + Brussels lace + Alençon, 200 + application, rivalry of Mirecourt, 252 + arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 + branches of industry, 123 + Brussels the only place for, 118 + colour of, 121 + compared with-- + Alençon, 199; + Binche, 135; + Lille, 237; + point de France, 194; + St. Trond, 137; + Saxony needle point, 263 + Cretan mesh work compared with, 87 + designing of, 122 + English Court fashion for, in George II.'s time, 354 + exported as "English point," 117 + flowers of, 121 + grounds of, 120; + Mechlin ground distinguished from, 125 + Honiton imitations of, 405, 406, 410 + made at Antwerp, 130; + at Chimay, 135 + manufacture described, 31, 118, 119; + titles of workers of various processes in, 122 + Marie Louise, Empress, presented with, 124 + patterns of, 122; + date of earliest patterns, 116 + point de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre + popular establishment for English buyers, 124 + price per pound, 119 n339; + causes of high price, 118, 119; + comparative cost of ground, 120; + price of flounce of, 124 n352 + thread used in, 118 and n338; + fineness of 119 n339 + value of, from one pound of flax, 120; + intrinsic value of, 124 n352 + veil of, presented to Empress Josephine, 123 n351; + smuggled, 361 + Venetian wear of, 57 and n192 + + -------- -lace-makers, point de raccroc of, 120 + + -------- net, 120 n345 + + Bruyel, Nicholas de, 111 + + Buckingham, Duchess of, 345 n1024 + + Buckinghamshire lace, 378-383; + value of, 402 + + Buffon, ruffles of, 173 + + Bulgarini, Francesea, 68 and n213 + + Bullock, Consul, quoted, 89 + + Bunt lace, 428 + + Buoy, lace seized in, 360 n1066 + + Burano + Alençon point made at, 62, 200 + Argentan made at, 62, 208 + English thread used at, 394 n1128 + number of lace-workers at, 394 n1128 + revival of lace industry at, 58-62 + + Burato, 53 + + Burgoigne, 205 n573, 216 n594 + + Burgundy, lace industry of, 255 and n684, n685; + lace-makers from, in London, 373 + + --------, Duke of (Charles the Bold), 111 + + --------, Dukes of, inventory of, quoted, 82 + + --------, Duchess of, 167 n492 + + Burke, Patrick, 323 + + Burnet, Bishop, quoted, 13 + + Burnham (Buckinghamshire), lace industry of, 379 + + Burning of badly-spun yarn, 432 and n1211 + + Butterfly and acorn design, 308, 408 + + Byas, 299 and n815 + + Byzantine Empire, origin of lace traced to, 45 + + Cabanillas, cited, 102 + + Cadenetas, 95 + + Calderwood, Mrs., cited, 127, 431; + quoted, 118 and n337, 137, 260; + Dresden ruffles of, 262 + + Caen + black lace of, 226 + blonde lace of, patterns, 224; + quality, 224; + rise and fall of industry, 225 + Chantilly industry outrivalled by, 215; + Chantilly made at, 224 + number of lace-makers employed in (1847), 225; + (after 1848), 228 n614 + price of lace of, 224 + + Cahanet, 226 + + Calais, machine-made blondes of, 225 + + Calepino, T., 474 + + Callot, engravings of, 146 + + Calthorpe, Lady, 37, 297 + + Calvados lace industry, 213, 223, 226, 228 and n614, 257 n688 + + Cambray, Archbishop of, 173 and n508 + + Cambrensis, Giraldus, cited, 435 + + Cambury, Lord, 403 + + Campan, Mme. de, 180 n533 + + Campane, 34 and n104, n106, 51 + + Campanner, 343 n1017 + + Campany, cited, 99 + + Campos, Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de, quoted, 95 + + Candy, thread lace from, 38 + + Canetille, 36 + + "Canons," 153 and n441 + + Canossa, Contessa, 469 + + Cant, Miss Anne, 430 n1207 + + Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making, cited, 2 n7 + + Cantu, lace-making at, 66, 80 + + Capefigue, quoted, 166 + + Card-sharping aided by ruffles, 171, 351 + + Cardinals, 356 and n1059 + + Cardwell, Mr., 384 + + Carew, Sir G., 308 n870 + + Carpaccio, lace in pictures of, 47 + + Carpentier, Madame, 226 + + Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98 + + Carrickmacross, lace industry at, 440 + + Carrouges, 206 + + Cartisan, 36 + + Cary, John, quoted, 849 n1325 + + Castanaga, M. de, 167 + + Castlebar, lace industry at, 439 + + Catalonia, blonde made at, 101; + blonde mantillas of, 88, 226 + + Catgut lace, 343, 430 n1207 + + Catherine de Bourbon, 144, 482, 494 + + ---------- of Braganza, 43 n137 + + ---------- de Médecis, + bed of, 22 + bizette of, 33 n102 + Florentine lace probably introduced into France by, 67 + lace-making at court of, 140 and n395 + needlework of, 11 + Vinciolo patronised by, 11, 17 + + Cattern's Day, 376 + + Cauellat, Veuve, 476 + + Cavenne, Citoyen, 137 n390 + + Cayette, V. P., cited, 140 n397 + + Cecil, letter from, regarding French tailors, quoted, 307 + + Cecyll, Richard, 291 + + Celle, D., 466 + + Cephalonia, Ionian lace at, 86 + + Cerceau, A. du, 476 + + Ceylon, pillow-laces of, 88 + + Challus, Anne, 184 n540 + + Chambrières, 8 + + Champagne, lace industry of, 253-255 + + Chandos, infant daughter of Duke of, 352 n1046 + + --------, Lady, 294 n791, 297 n811, 307 n862, 308 n867 + + Channel Islands, lace industry in, 372 n1098 + + Channon, Miss Mary, 398 + + "Chansons a toile", 8 and n29 + + Chantilly + number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n688 + point tresse made at, 314 + + ---------- lace + black, 226 + Caen manufacture of, 224 + Genoese imitation of, 75 + industry of, 212-215 + Saxony lace compared with, 263 + Spanish silk laces contrasted with, 103 + Spanish and Portuguese imitation of, 106 + + Charles I. (England) + Carisbrook clothing expenses of, 372 n1097 + carpet bag trimmings of, 38, 298 + extravagance of, 326, 327 and n950, 328 + Great Wardrobe Account, quoted, 253 and n678, n679, 205 n612 + marriage accounts, 296 + period of, 326-332 + picture catalogue of, cited, 296 + + -------- II. (England) + Collobium sindonis of, 335 and n981 + Flanders lace, importation of, prohibited by, 125 + foreign lace imported by, 336 and n985 + period of, 335-339 + silver parchment lace of, 38, 298 and n841 + + --------, Prince (England), accounts of, cited, 322, 325 n940, n941 + + -------- V. (Belgium) + cap of, 113 + lace-making encouraged by, 113 + portrait of, in Quentell's pattern book, 459 + + -------- VIII. (France), 139 n393 + + -------- IX. (Sweden), 279 + + -------- X., 143 n412 + + -------- the Bold, 111 + + Charleville lace, 183 n539, 254 and n680 + + Charlotte, Queen + Armada pattern lace of, 397 + British lace worn by, 363, 398 + favourite lace of, 128 + lace industry started by, 374 + sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046 + + Charmouth, lace-workers at, 395 + + Charollais, Mlle. de, + inventory of, quoted, 125 n353, 129 n364, 162 n475, 175 n520, 135 + ruffles of, 233 n626 + + Chat, 181 and n536 + + Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n584 + + -------- -Renaud lace, 254 + + -------- -Thierry, lace industry at, 157 n459, 253 + + Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n671 + + Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n287 + + ----------, Zacharie, 259 + + Chaucer, quoted, 15 and n50 + + Chaumont, 251 n673 + + Chauvin, Pierre, 230 + + Cheney, lace industry at, 384 + + Chesterfield, Lord, quoted, 358 + + Cheveux de la reine, 181 and n535 + + Chevreuse, Madame de, 168 + + Cheyne lace, 438 + + Chiavari + _Macramé_ of, 79 + tape guipure of, 75 + + Chicago Exhibition. _See under_ Exhibitions + + Chichester, Lady Hamilton, 87 and n262 + + Chick, Mrs., 407 n1153 + + Chigi-Giovanelli, Princess, 61 + + Children as lace-makers, 103 n305, 107, 155, 209, 377, 438 + + Chili lace, 108 + + Chimay lace, 134-135 + + China + drawn work of, 46 + silk lace not in demand in, 89 + + ------, lace exchanged for, 349 + + Choïsy, Abbé de, 167 + + Christening shirts of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 308 and n872 + + Christian IV. of Denmark, 68, 272-274 + + Christina, Queen, 73 n230 + + Church of England + appointment of parsons of, for reform of lace-making abuses, 331 + inventories of, lace mentioned in, 293 + ruffs worn by Bishops, 318; + sermons against ruffs, 316 + + ------ of France, extravagance of prelates (Louis XVI.), 182-183 + + Churchill, Lord, 403 + + Cibber, Colley, cited, 344 n1021 + + Cicognara, Count, 467 and n1286 + + Ciglia family, Maltese lace made by, 88 + + Cinq Mars, boots and collarette of, 145 + + Ciprioto, 82 n252 + + Cistercians, 7 + + "City Match," quoted, 324 + + Clarke, Jane, 443 n1233 + + Claver, Alice, 288 + + Clayton, Sir Thomas, accounts of, quoted, 350 + + Clement VII., Pope, 62 + + -------- IX., Pope, 70 + + -------- X., Pope, 172 n505 + + Clément, M., 226 + + Clermont, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted 128 n363, 195 n560, 207 n578 + + Clonard Abbey, effigy in, 437 n1222 + + Clones, lace and crochet industry of, 445 + + Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51 + + ------ lace + Le Puy Fabric, 246 n659 + Mirecourt fabric, 252 + + Coccolia, lace school at, 81 n249 + + Cochon, cited, 256 n686 + + Cock (fontange), 423 + + ----, Hieronymus, 493 n1354 + + Cockscombes, 344 + + Code Michaud, 148 + + Coggeshall (Essex), lace made at, 441 n1230 + + Coigny, Duchesse de, 123 n351 + + "Col rabattu," 145 + + Colbert, Chevalier + Aurillac lace of, 248 + chief director of trade, 158 n461 + death of, 192 + development of lace industry by, 154; + extract from letter to M. le Comte d'Avaux, 155 + difficulties in establishing lace factories, 158 and n461, n462 + fabrics attempted by, 255, 256 + fabrics established by, at + Arras, 239 and n644 + Aurillac, 247 + Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n584 + Le Quesnoy, 230 + Loudun, 256 + Huguenots protected by, 100 + inventory of, quoted, 218 n596, 259 n692 + Mazarin, correspondence with, concerning lace, referred to, 150-151 + ordinance of, 54 + point d'Alençon established by, 188 + points de France, established by, 33, 111 + Raffy, Madame, letter from, quoted, 202 + + Colbertine, 337, 339 and n996, n997, n998 + + Colchester, complaints of, regarding foreign lace-makers, 324 n935 + + Cole, A. S. + cited, 91-92 and n268, 446 n1236; + quoted, 193 n555, 203 n570 + Kinsale lace revival due to, 442 and n1232 + + Collaert, engraving by, 109 n319 + + Collars, hunting, 328 + + Collectors of lace, 364 + + Cologne pattern book, 268 + + Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n435 + + Colporteurs, lace sold by, 44 and n142, n143 + + Colyton + military thieves at, 403 + tomb in church of, 403 n1145 + + Commode. _See_ Fontange + + Commonwealth, the, needlework in the time of, 13 + + Compas lace, 297 and n809 + + Compton, Lord, cited, 296 n800 + + Conclave, the holy, laces of, 70 + + Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n355, 161 n468, 168 n496, + 169 n497, 174 n519, n520, 195 n558 + + Congreve, cited, 344 n1021; + quoted, 339 + + Contarini, Lucretia, 476, 484 + + Conti, Prince de, + marriage-toilette of, 161-162 and n472 + point d'Aurillac cloak of, 248 + + Contrada del Pizzo, 59 + + Connet, lace trade at, 270. + + Cooke, quoted, 414 + + Copper lace (St. Martin's), 331 n965 + + Coral point, 51 + + Coralline, Point de Venise copied from, 49-50 + + Cordonnet, 87, 406, 408 + + Corfu, Greek lace made at, 85 + + Cork, crochet industry of, 444, 445 + + "Corona" of Vecellio. _See_ Vecellio + + Cotgrave, quoted, 33 n102, 36 n112 + + Cotton lace, 187 + + ------ weaving, at Ghent, 134 + + Couronne (picot), 31 and n92 + + Courtrai, flax grown at, 118 n338 + + -------- lace. _See under_ Valenciennes lace + + Cousin, Jean, 476 + + Couvin lace, 138 n392 + + Covenanters, sumptuary enactments of, 424 + + Coventry blue, 302 + + Cow-houses, lace worked in lofts over, 224 + + Cowper, quoted, 364, 370, 379 + + Coxcombs, 31 + + Cranfield, Sir Lyonell, cited, 324 n934 + + Crâponne fabric, 246 + + Cravat, laced + introduction of, 337 + origin of, 42 n135 + stock the successor of, 345 + + Creaden, the Queen of, 437 n1223 + + Créquy, M. de, 143 + + ------, Madame de, quoted, 175 + + ------, Marquise de, quoted, 173 n511, 250 and n668 + + Crete, lace manufacture of, 86-87 + + Crochet, Irish, 444-445 + + -------- hook used in Genoese guipures, etc., 74 + + -------- needle, used in Punto di Rapallo, 75 n237 + + Cromwell, Oliver, dress of, 333, 334 + + Crown lace, 299 and n814 + + Croïy, Duc de, 366 n1083 + + Crusaders, art of lace-making, traced to, 45 n148 + + Cuença, 246 + + Cuipure (guipure), 37 + + Culpepper, Sir John, quoted, 318-319 + + Cunningham, quoted, 308 n866 + + Curragh point, 443 and n1233 + + Curtius, M., 143 and n412 + + "Custom of the Country" quoted, 324 + + Cut-work + ecclesiastical use of, 15 + Elizabeth's use of, 303-305 + Italian, 325 + James I.'s time, 322, 325 + lace known as, 2 + name explained, 19 + pall of, used in Dieppe, 25 + Ricci's "Last Supper" depicted in, 79 n248 + smocks adorned with, 25 + toile d'honneur of, use at St. Lo, 25 + + Cyprus, needlework of, 82 + + d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638 + + d'Addo, Marquis, 459 n1264, 467 n1287, n1288, 469 n1294, 470, 472, 475, + 476 and n1315, 477 + + Daedalian ruffs, 315 and n895 + + Daimeries, Mme., quoted, 138 n392 + + Dalecarlian lace, 68, 281, 282, 338 + + Dalrymple, Miss Jenny, 263 + + Dalton, Mother Augustine, 444 + + Damer, Mr., 364 + + Dammartin lace, 212 + + Dangean, quoted, 167, 178 + + Dantelle (dentelle), first occurrence of word, 490 + + d'Aranda, Madame, 98 n280 + + Darned netting, 20, 21 + + Dartmouth, Lord, 379 + + Dauphin, ceremony at birth of, 162 n474 + + Davies, Barber Surgeon, quoted, 70 + + Davies' _Epigrams_ quoted, 323 n933 + + Davey, Mrs., 409 + + Dawson, Mrs., 446 n1235 + + de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357 + + de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208 + + de Staël, Madame, 180 + + Deaf and dumb, net lace used by, in Sardinia, 81 n248 + + Debts for lace, 353 and n1050. + + Decker, T., quoted, 315 n895 + + Defoe, quoted, 43 n140, 171 n503, 377 and n1111, 378, 379, 380 and n1119, + 396, 397, 403; + cited, 344 + + Delaney, Mrs., quoted, 120 n344, 121, 355; + cited, 413 n1161 + + Denbert, Bishop of Durham, 6 + + Denmark + cut-work of, 276, 277 + embroidered tulle of, 229 + grave-clothes, lace adorned in, 275, 366 and n1082 + lace industry. (_See also_ Schleswig and Tönder) + export trade, 274 n736 + lace postmen, 274, 277 + origin of, 272 + protected by Christian IV., 274 + quality of lace, 275 + Wulff's revival of, 276 and n739 + + Dennistoun, Mrs., 58-59, 487 + + Denny, Lady Arabella, 437, 438 and n1225, 439 and n1227 + + Dentelière, work of, 122 + + Dentelle, definition of term, 27 and n80 + + -------- à la Reine, 259 and n692 + + -------- à la Vierge, 220 + + "Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32 + + Derby Alice, Countess of, effigy of, 321 n927 + + ------, Lady, 342 + + ------ rib, 448 n1239 + + Derbyshire, pillow lace made in, 393 + + Derode, V., quoted, 236 n630, n633 + + Desborough, lace industry of, 379 + + Desmarquets, cited, 219 n603 + + Desmond, Countess of, 437 n1222 + + Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155 + n455 + + ------, Odolent, quoted, on invention and establishment of point + d'Alençon, 155-157 + + Despierres, Mme., quoted, 157 n457, n458, 159 n464, 195 n557, 204 n571, + 307; + cited, 192 n552, 203 + + d'Este, Madame Anne Bellorio, 61 + family, auctions of, cited, 46 + + Devonshire + bone pins used in, 294 + lace of. _See_ Honiton, Trolly + villages in, noted for lace-making in 1698, 403 n1143; + those now engaged in, 403 n1147 + + ----------, Duke of, coffin of, searched for lace, 360 + + ----------, Duke of, Jacobite lace brought to, 426 + + Diamond lace, 299-300 and n818 + + "Diarium Vadstenoense" 278 + + Didot, F., 487 + + Dieppe + cut-work, pall used in, 25 + lace industry of, 218-220, 223 + + ------ lace, 183 n539 + + Dieudonné-- + quoted, 225 n613, 231; + cited 237 n639 + + Dijon, Valenciennes made at, 255 + + Dike, Ric. 319 n918 + + Dinant muslin-work, 138 n392 + + Dinghen, Madame, 311 + + Doddridge, Lady, effigy of, 405 + + Doge's horn in Italian laces, 66 + + Dogs as lace-smugglers, 116 and n329 + + Dolls dressed in French fashions, 170 and n500, n501 + + "Don Quixote," cited, 98 n281 + + Donat, Père, 501 + + Donchéry lace, 254 + + Doran, Dr., anecdote related by, 186 + + Dorsetshire lace, 396-398; + value of, 402 + + Dorstats, Madame Catherine von, 497 + + Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176 + + Double ground, 386 + + Douce, Mrs., cited, 500 n1366 + + Douglas, Bp., letters of, quoted, 265 and n720 + + Dover, refugee lace-makers at, 324 n935 + + "Down," 390 + + Draper, Mrs., 13 + + Drawn-work, + method of, 25 + Sicilian, 81 + South American, 188 + wire, 72 + + Dresden lace, 262, 263, 430 and n1207 + + Drocheleuse, work of, 122 + + Droschel, 119 + + Drouais, 168 + + Dryden, quoted, 425 + + Du Barry, Madame + accounts of, quoted, 34 n106, 120 and n341, n343, n344, 126 n356, 129 + n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 175 n520, 178 n529, 181 n534, 195, 207 and + n577, 231 and n621, n622, 233 n625, n626 + Indian muslin bought by, 179 + inventories of, quoted, 213 n592, 250 n666, n667 + + Du Haillan, 142 n408 + + Dublin Society, The, 429, 437-439 + + Dubois, C., cited, 137 n389, 138 n392 + + ------, 468 + + Duchesse lace, 123 + + Dulaure, cited, 173 and n513 + + Dumont, manufactory of, 211 + + ------, Mlle., 105 n312 + + Dunbar, Mrs., 443 + + Dunkirk, James II.'s cap in Museum at, 340 and n1004 + + Duponchel (Du Ponchel), 205, 207 n576 + + Dupont, M., cited, 204 + + Duras, Duc de, 207 n577 + + ------, Duchesse de, 213 and n591 + + Duref Henri, cited, 247 + + Durham, St. Cuthbert's cope and maniple at, 7; + his grave-clothes, 14, 15, 366 + + Durie, Lord, engraving of, 423 + + Dussen, B. v. d., cited, 133 and n378 + + Duthie, Mlle., 181 + + Duval, M., 224 + + Dysart, Countess of, 344 n991 + + "Each," 391 + + _Eagle_ (French vessel), seizure of, 101 + + Earnings and wages of lace-workers + Alençon, 192 + Arras (1788), 239; + (1851), 240 + Bedfordshire, 377 + blonde-workers, 225 + Denmark (1848), 277 n741 + Devonshire, 414, 416 n1168; + Honiton, 407 and n1153 + Dorsetshire, 398 + Flemish thread-spinners', 119 + France, average (1851), 257 n688; + their savings, 159 n464 + Genoa, 77, 78 + Mechlin, 127 + Mirecourt, 252 n675, 253 + Normandy, 223, 228 n614 + Northamptonshire (Spratton), 390 + Scotland, 434 + Spain, 102 + Switzerland, 270 + Val, 233, 234 n627 + Vélay, 244 + Ypres Valenciennes, 131 n373 + + Eaton, John, 336 + + ------, Prestwick, letters from, cited, 98 n282 + + Ecclesiastical lace + Athenian--for Jewish Church, 86 + Burano school allowed to copy, 62 + decline of, since the Reformation, 331 + Greek, 83 + Ionian, 86 + Italian, 47 and n154 + Katherine of Aragon's work of, 376 and n1108 + Maltese, 88 + Scotch, 418, 419 + Spanish, 90, 92 + washing of, 373 n1101 + + Ecouen lace, 210 n589 + + Eden, Mrs., 443 + + Edgithe, Queen, 6 + + Edict of Nantes, Revocation of + effect on lace industry (France and other countries), 192, 212, 254, + 258 + settlement of fugitives in Germany, 264-265 + + Edinburgh Society for Encouraging the Arts and Manufactures of Scotland, + 262, 263, 429, 430 and nn + + Edward the Elder, daughters of, 6 + + Edward III. + pins for his daughter's trousseau, 294 n794 + thread veils of time of, 285. + + Edward IV. + Irish smock of, 436 + wardrobe accounts of, quoted, 288 + + Edward VI., funeral lace of, 293 + + Effingham, Dowager Lady, 349 + + ----------, Earl of, 364 + + Egenolffs, C., 470 + + Egyptians (Ancient), embroidery of, 1 + + Ekenmark, cited, 280 n748 + + Elberfeld, 265 + + Eleanor of Austria, 262 n701 + + Elgin marbles, designs in, 3 + + Elizabeth, Princess (wife of Elector Palatine), 71, 325 + + ---------- of Austria (Elisabetta Borbona d'Austria), 495 + + ---------- of Bohemia, 294 n794 + + ---------- of Denmark, 272 + + ----------, Queen + anecdote referring to, 38, 297 + cost of lace for revels at court of, 308 n871 + cut-work of, 303-305 + false hair of, 314 and n894, n895 + foreign tastes of, 305, 307, 310 + Irish at court of, 435 + laces of, 299-300; + lace made from human hair, 313; + Genoa and Spanish lace, 307; + parchment lace, 298; + cost of lace furnished to, 308 + New Year's gifts to, 294 n791, 295, 303 n833, 304 n834, n835, n836, + n837, 307 and n862, 308 n867, n870, 310 n875, n876 + old clothes of, presented to Anne of Denmark, 320 + presents to, from Mary Stuart, 420 and n1184; + from the Baroness Aletti, 421 n1187 + ruffs of, 310-313; + 316 n901 + skill of, in needlework, 500 + smock made by, 10 and n32; + smocks of, 308, 408 + stocking-frame inventor discouraged by, 448 n1240 + wardrobe accounts of, cited, 72; + quoted, 92, 98 n282, 297 and n811, 299 and n814, n815, n816, n817, + 300-301 and n820, n821, n824, n826, 302 and n827, 304 n834, n838, 307 + and n861, n865, 309 n873, 311 n880, 312 n882, 314 n895, 372 n1098 + + ----------, reign of + christening shirts and bearing cloths of, 308-309 + habits of people in, 310 n877 + importation of pins (annual) in, 294 n794 + lace, use of, in, 300 + laced handkerchiefs of, 310 and n874 + measures against luxury of the people, 301 + sumptuary laws, 306 and n855 + value of lace and thread imported (1559 and 1568), 306 and n859 + Venice lace of, 48 and n154 + + ---------- of York, Queen, 9 n30, 48, 289 + + Elliott, Julian, 328 + + Embroider, Italian and Spanish term for, 45 and n147 + + Embroidery + Anglo-Saxon, 5-7 + Babylonian, Sidonian and Phrygian, 3 and n13 + drawn-thread work, 25 + ecclesiastical, 4-7. + Egyptian, 1 + Greek, 2, 3 and n8 + Jewish, 2 + Spanish, 103 + + Embroidered lace, Genoese, 77 + + Engageantes, 168 + + Enghien lace, 134 + + "Engines" for lace-making, 324 n935 + + England (_for_ counties, towns, etc., _see their titles_) + French fashions, method of obtaining, 170 + frugality of nation, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, 310 n877 + lace in + account of (_See also_ names of sovereigns), 285 _et seq._ + date of establishment of industry, 286-288; + origin of, 111; + centres of, before 1665, 44 n144; + impossibility of competing with Belgium, 138 + earliest mention of, 285 + Flanders, trade with (1768), 115; + Flemish lace. _See_ that title + foreign, prohibited, 125, 289-290, 341, 347; + imported, 245, 251, 288, 291 + smuggling of. _See that title_ + Protestant refugees in, trades of, 297-298 + Reformation, decline of ecclesiastical lace since, 331 + sumptuary laws. _See that title_ + Vinciolo published in, 482 + + Engrêlure, 31, 168 n496 + + Entoilage, 30, 250 + + Épinal, 251 + + Equipage de bain, 168 + + Eric XIV. (Sweden), 307 + + Ericksholm, 280 + + ---------- Castle, 279 + + Erikson, Gustaf, 280 + + Erzgebirge lace, 263 + + Essex, Earl of, 401 + + Este, Madame Anne Belloris, d', 61 + + ---- family, archives of, cited, 46 + + Etrepagny lace, 213 n589 + + Eu lace, 183 n539, 218, 221-222 + + Eugénie, Empress, 198 + + Evans, Mrs., 308 n869 + + Evelyn, quoted, 13, 43, 168 n496, 338, 339; + cited, 57 + + Exeter, Bishop of, 316 + + ------, Elizabeth, Duchess of, 285 n755 + + Exhibitions + Chicago World's Fair + Honiton lace at, 416 n1169 + Italian lace at, 46 n150 + Colonial and Indian Exhibition (1886), + Cyprian lace at, 82 + Industry, 1808, point d'Argentan at, 208 + (1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198; + lace industry developed since, 392 + (1855) (Paris) + Alençon point dress at, 198 + equipage of King of Rome at, 196 + needle-point dress at, 245 + (1859) (French). Report--cost of Brussels lace, 119 n339 + (1862) (International) + Spanish exhibits at, 103-104 + threads, comparative fineness of, 119 n339 + Wadstena lace at, 280 + 1867 (Paris) + Alençon point dress at, 200 + Burano laces at, 58 + Honiton lace at, 410 + macramé shown at, 79 + Mechlin lace at, 125 + oyah at, 87 + point gaze at, 123 + Valenciennes lace at, 131 and n373 + 1874 (International) + Austrian lace at, 268 + Brussels lappet at, 411 + Russian towels at, 283 + Valenciennes lace at, 131 + 1889, point d' Alençon at, 201 + 1900 (Paris), 268 + + Eyesight, effect of lace-making on, 112 n324 + + Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 333 + + Fairs, 43 and n136, n137, n140, 326 n945 + + Falbala, 167 and n492 + + Falcon, T., 246 + + Fallals, 350 and n1043 + + Falling bands, 321 n928, 322, 326, 327, 334, 336 + + Fambri, Signor, 61 + + "Fameuse poupée," 170 + + Fanciulle, 462 + + Fanshaw, Lady, quoted, 333 + + Farbeck, John, 300 + + Favier-Duboulay, correspondence of, with Colbert, re lace industry at + Alençon, 155 and n454, 189 + + Feather-stitch, 8 + + Fécamp lace, 218 + + Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n402 + + Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n437 + + Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99 + + Felkin, Mr., cited, 447 + + Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 92, 93, 96 + + Feret quoted, 219 and n604 + + Ferguson, Mr., cited, 250 and n665 + + Fernandez, Don Manuel, 102 + + Ferrara + archives of, quoted, 46 and n150 + Venetian lace-worker at, 78 n243 + + Fielding quoted, 354 n1053 + + Filet brodé à reprises, 20 + + Fillesae, Marie, 157 n458 + + Fillings, 31 + + Filo di freta (_See also_ Aloe thread), 79 n245 + + Firenzuola cited, 46 n152, 47, 57 n172; + quoted, 66 and n207 + + Fisher, Bishop, 292 + + Fitz-Geoffrey (Geffery), Henry, quoted, 317 n908, 332 + + Flanders + emigration of lace-makers from, preventive legislation, 111-112; + emigrants in London, 373; + in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, 375 and n1105; + in Devonshire, 399 and nn, 400 n1140; + expelled from England (1572), 306 + lace. _See_ Flemish lace. + lace school in, description of, 114-115 + Spanish imports of dentelles d'Angleterre from, 98 + thread imported from, complaint regarding, 324 n935 + water-glass reflectors used in, 390 n1125 + + --------, East, lace of, 133-134 + + --------, West + lace workers of, 133 and n378 + Valenciennes lace of. _See_ Valenciennes Flax + age of, 259 n697 + cotton substituted for, 187 + spinning of, in damp cellars, 405 + + Fleming, Lady, 10 + + Flemish lace. (_See also_ Belgium _and_ Brabant) + arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 + Barcelona lace imitated from, 91, 99 + black lace exported, 117 n330 + cargo of smuggling vessel (1678), 117 + coffin containing, 61 + Danish imitation of, 275 + England + bribes for Jacobites in, 351 n1045 + exportation to, prohibited, 125, 341 + fashionable in, 318, 325, 327, 340 + imitations in, 384, 404; + Honiton reproductions, 411, 416 + trade with (1768), 115 + France, popularity in (Louis XIV.), 150; + trade (seventeenth century), annual value of, in passemens, 209 n583; + prohibited, 142 + importance of industry of, 111 + Liège, 136-137 + "Malines," a term for, 125 + origin of, 109 + types of, 115-116 + white work, 294 and n791 + + Flemish names in Colyton (Devon), 403 n1145 + + Fleurens, 270 + + Fleury, Cardinal, quoted, 176 + + Florence + gold lace from, Spanish exclusion of, 92 + Greek lace made at, 85 + industrial schools in, lace work of, 81 n248 + lace industry of, account of, 66-68; + "fine dantelle de," 27 + Le Puy, imports from, 245 n657 + + Florentine merchants, allowed to trade in England (circ. 1546), 291 + + Florini, M., 488 + + _Flying Postman_ advertisement in, 129 + + "Flys," 416 n1170 + + Foillet, J., 489, 490 + + Fonneuse, work of, 122 + + Fontange (Commode) + "cock" the Scotch term for, 423 + description of, 168 n486, 342, 350 n1043 + extinction of mode, 166, 348 and n1035 + story of, 164 + + Fontana, Lavinia, lace in picture by, 47 n153 + + Fontenay, lace, 212 n589 + + Fontenelle le Liqueur, 229 and n615 + + Fonthill, sale of lace at, 162 n475 + + Foote, quoted, 171 n503 + + Footing, 31, 168 n496 + + Forbes, Miss Betsey, 432 n1209 + + Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n1004 + + Force, P. de la, cited, 254 and n682 + + Foresto, I., 471 + + Fortunato, P. A., 500 + + Foskewe, Sir John, 22 + + _Four P's, The_, cited, 43 n139 + + Fournier, quoted, 209 n583 + + "Fourpenny Spot," 372 n1095 + + Fowke, Mr., cited, 6 and n23 + + Fowler, Mrs., lace school of, 416 and n1169 + + Fozzi, P. P., 491 + + France. _For_ districts, towns, etc., _see their titles_ + bobbin net introduced into, 187 + customs of French ladies, 168-170 + états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183 + extravagant cost of lace ornaments (Louis XIV.), 153 + Fairs in, 43 n136 + Fashions + fashion dolls, 170 and n500, n501 + Italian influence on, 139 and n393 + Louis XIV., under, 167 + first appearance of lace in, 139 n393 + First Empire + Brussels lace at court of, 123 + lace industry under, 184 + morning costume under, 185 + point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 + Florentine lace used in (1545), 67 + imports of lace from, to England, forbidden by Queen Anne, 347 + Italian guipures exported to, 75 + Italy, relations with (16th century), 476 + lace industry in. _See_ French lace industry + lace-makers from, brought to teach Scotch girls, 428 + ladies, addiction of, to needlework, 9, 24; + as lace-makers, 163 + men as embroiderers in, 13 + point d'Espagne consumed in, 90; + made in, 100 + points de Venise from, 54 + Quintain named from Brittany town, 19 + lace industry improved by, 383 + refugees from, to Channel Islands, 372 n1098; + to England, 324 n935 + Revolution in, effect of, on lace trade, 183 and n539, 223, 249, 368, + 408 + Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 + Spanish imports of lace from, 101 + sumptuary laws in, 138 and n354, n355, 147 and n429, 149, 154 and n451 + tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137 + war with, effect of, on English lace industry, 386, 387 + yellow starch, attitude towards, 318 and n909 + + France and Navarre, Queen of, pattern book dedicated to, 493 + + Franceschi, Francesco di, 475, 484 + + Francis I. + Aurillac lace of, 247 + pattern book dedicated to, 461 + + Frankfort-on-the-Maine + fair at, 43 n136, 326 n945 + pattern book published at, 267 + + Frano, G., 477 + + Frederick, Prince of Wales, 354 + + ---------- IV., 274 + + ---------- William of Brandenburg, 264 + + French lace industry + centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 + cheap lace, 187 and n546 + Colbert's development + establishment and history of the company (1668-1675), 157-158 + establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157 + immigration of Venetian workers, 159 n465 + principal centres, 159 n464 + pupils sent to Venice, 154-155 and n454 + First Empire, under, 184 + foreign trade + Bruges, annual value of, with, 241; + with Flanders, 209 n583; + Valenciennes trade with Belgium, 132 n376 + Germany, with, 265 + prohibition of, with Flanders, 142 + rivalry of Holland in, 258 + smuggling from Belgium, 116; + from Switzerland, 270 + statistics regarding (18th century), 160 n466 + number of lace-makers in (present day), 188; + table of (1851), 257 n688 + Paris lace-workers, confirmation of statutes of, 150 n437 + pattern books, 144 and n420, n421, n422, n423 + patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 + pillow lace manufacture, extension of (17th century), 159 + point d'Espagne, 100 + Protestants prohibited from selling lace, 150 n437 + varieties of lace made in (1665), 33-35 + width of lace restricted, 152-153 + + Freyburg, 268 + + Freytag, G., quoted, 265 n718 + + Friesland hens, ladies likened to, 342 + + Frondeurs, extravagance of, 150 + + Froschover, Christopher, pattern book of, 271 + + Fugio lace, 74 + + Fuller, quoted, 378, 401 + + Furnesse, Sir Henry, 344, 347 + + Fuseaux, dentelle à, 32 n98 + + Gabrielle de Bourbon, 8 n28 + + ----------, Madame, 49, 142, 143 and n413, n414, n415 + + Gaguef lace, 281 + + _Gan, Le_, quoted, 24 + + Gantes, Mlles., 250 + + Garden, Lord, quoted, 119 + + Garnica, John de, 113 n325 + + Garnier, Joseph, cited, 255 n685 + + Garnitures de lit, 174 and n519, n520 + + Garters + Queen Elizabeth's cost per pair, 301 + trimmed with point, 145 + + Gaston, Duke of Orleans, 8 n27 + + Gaudronnées collerettes, 17 + + Geneva, rivalry of, with Mirecourt, 252 + + Genoa + Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79 + collars of, 74 + earnings of lace-workers, 77, 78 + embroidered lace of, 77; + embroidered tulle, 229 + gold work of, 47, 72 + guipures of, 74 + lace of + Cardinal Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 + Honiton reproduction of, 411 + point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n230, 74 + Queen Elizabeth's, 307 and n865 + lace trade in, chiefly pillow, 47, 74; + decline of, 74 + silk work of, 72 + sumptuary laws in, 73 + Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225 + + Genoa, Duchess of, 78 n244 + + Gentili family, bridal veil made for, 78 + + Geometrical patterns + cuffs of (Queen Mary's), 113 + Cretan, 86 + Greek lace, 20, 85 + ruffs of, 316 + Swedish, 25 + Vecellio's, 111 + Vinciolo's, 18 + + George I. + Mechlin cravat of, 126 and n361 + period of, 351-353 + wardrobe account of, 240 and n645 + + ------ II., period of, 354-357 + + ------ III. + English manufactures protected by, 359, 363 and n1068, 381 + period of, 363-370 + sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046 + + ------ IV., wardrobe of, 364 n1073 + + Geharts, C., 501 + + Germany + fairs in, 43 n136, n140 + guipures imported into, 36 + lace imported into, 245, 251, 254 + lace industry + centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 + export trade with France, 265 + North and South + Edict of Nantes Revocation--emigration of fugitives into, 264-265 + religion of lace-workers, 264 + sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, 264 + Nuremberg (_See that title_) + origin of, 111 + pattern-books, 266-268 + Saxony (_see that title_) + luxury, outbreak of, 265-266 + + Geslin, Simon, 193 + + _Gespeldewerkte kant_, 32 n98 + + Ghent lace + Brussels lace compared with, 118 + manufacture of, 133-134 + trade replaced by cotton-weaving, 134 + Valenciennes made at Ghent, character of, 231 n624 + + Ghisolieri, La Signora Silveria Rossi, 484 + + Gibbons, Grinling, lace carvings of, 367 and n1088 + + Gibson, Sir Alexander, engraving of, 423 + + ------, Miss Mary, 438 + + Gigliucci, Countess, fragment of drawn work possessed by, 69 + + Gilbert, Madame, 155 and n455, 156, 157 and n458 + + Gimp + Brussels lace, in, 406 + method of making, 33 + silk, at Ragusa, 84 + + Gioiello, 486 + + Giraldini, Catherina, 500 + + Gisors lace industry, 209, 213 n589, 215 + + Glairo, Mlle. U., 235 + + Glandore, Lord, 436 + + Glen, Jean de, 136, 482, 488 and n1338 + + ----, Miss, 431 n1209 + + Gloucester, Duchess of, lace collection of, 369 + + Gloves, laced, 337 and n991 + + Goats' hair lace, 245 + + Godard, Jean, quoted, 24, 146 n425 + + Goderonné, term explained, 17 n57 + + Godric, 6 + + Gohory, Anne, 183 n540 + + Golbertain (Colbertine), 339 n996 + + Golconda, King of, 322 n928, 329 and n958 + + Gold lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace) + Arras, of, 240 + England, imported to + fifteenth-sixteenth centuries, 288, 289, 307 + monopoly in, under James I., 318 + prohibited, by Queen Anne, 349; + by George II., 355 n1057; + confiscation and burning of, 359 + France, popularity in, 139, 141, 146, 154; + of Paris, 211-212 + Genoa, wearing prohibited in, 73 + Hamburg, of, 264 + Holland, introduction into, 259 + India, imported into, 322 n928, 329 and n958 + Ireland, importation to, prohibited, 439 + Jewish manufacture of, 92 + Lyons, of, 256 + Ragusa, at, 84 + Russia, of, 283 + Scotland, wearing in, prohibited, 422 + Sicily, of, 80 + Spain, of, 92, 100-102, 248 + Sweden, of, 280 + Zurich, of, 271 + + ---- guipure work, Swedish, 277-278 + + ---- purles, 330 + + ---- thread + duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328 + Italian (fourteenth century), 72 + + ---- wire, protest by handspinners of, 335 + + Golden Horn, 273 + + Goldoni, cited, 57 n192 + + Goldsmith, quoted, 70 n218 + + Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n582 + + Gonzales, Don Manuel, cited, 380 and n1120, 403 n1146 + + Gooding, James, 413, 414 + + Gorget (whisk), 334 + + Gormont, 464 + + Goudronné, term explained, 17 n57 + + Gozo, Maltese lace made at, 88 + + Grafton, Duchess of, 344 n1021, 349 n1037 + + Gramite, 46 n150 + + Grammont lace, 134 + + Granada, lace alb in cathedral of, 92, 93 + + Granson, battle of, 111 + + Grave-clothes + Duke of Alva's, 366 n1085 + Ionian lace sold from, 86 + lace decorations of, 365-367 + St. Cuthbert's, 14, 15, 366 + + Gravelle, attempt to establish fabric by, 207 + + Great Marlow + bone lace trade of, 319 + lace school at, 378 + + Great Wardrobe Accounts, where kept, 299 n816 + + Greek lace. (_See also_ Cyprus _and_ Ragusa) + Devonshire imitation of, 414 n1165 + Italian cut-work so called, 20 + Milan point, 65 + reticella so called, 50, 85 + + Greeks (ancient), embroidery of, 2, 3 and n8 + + Green, quoted, 296 + + ------ silk lace, 291 n783 + + Greene, Mrs., quoted, 321 n926 + + Gremial, 70 n217 + + Grey, Lady Jane, anecdote of, 38, 297 + + Grillé, 30 n89 + + Gripsholm, portrait of Queen Elizabeth at, 307 + + Gropari (punto a gropo), 52 + + Gros point de Venise. _See_ Point de Venise, rose point + + ---- René, 32 + + Groslay lace, 210, 213 n589 + + Ground + absent in certain laces, 31 + kinds of, 30 + round, 39 + + Gruner, Mr., cited, 476 n1316, 487 n1335, 489 + + Gruuthus mansion, collection at, 138 + + Gueuse, 33, 34, 41, 42 + + Guibray fair, 43 n136 + + Guipure + Flemish, 123, 133 + Genoese, 74 + Honiton (modern), 409, 410 + Maltese, 88 + method of making, materials, uses, 35-40 + modern, 39, 40 + parchment lace probably English term for, 37-38 + point de Venise, 49 + tape, 39, 75 + Turkish, 87 + + Gunning, Miss (Duchess of Hamilton), 425 n1199, 428, 429 + + Gurbert, cited, 219 n602 + + Gustavus Adolphus, 282 + + Gustaf Vasa, 279, 280 + + Guyard, Sieur Mathieu, 204-205 + + Guyenne, annual consumption of Le Puy lace in, 245 n657 + + Haag, cited, 265 n714, 269 n725 + + Haarlem thread, 216 n595, 223 n608, 245, 259 and n695, n697 + + Hailstone, Mrs., 23 + + Hainault, laces, 134 _et seq._; + lace flowers, 121 + + Hair + false, of Queen Elizabeth's time, 314 and nn + fashion of wearing, 341 + lace made from, 313; + horse-hair used in Alençon, 194; + goats'-hair and rabbits'-hair lace, 245 + wigs, 336, 349 + + Hal, flax grown at, 118 + + Haliwell, quoted, 297 n809 + + Halle lace, 265 + + Hamburg point, 264 + + Hamilton, Anne, Duchess of (Miss Gunning), 425 n1199, 428, 429 + + --------, Lady Jane, 123 n351 + + Hamilton lace, 430 + + -------- net-work (modern), 434 n1216 + + Hamlet on the French stage, 186 + + Hammond, machine-net invented by, 447 + + Hand, Mrs., 445 + + Handkerchiefs, laced, 310 and n874, 337 + + Hangkow, lace made in, 89 + + Hanmer, Sir Thomas, 349 n1037 + + Hanover fabrics, 265 + + Hanslope lace industry, 380 n1119 + + Harefield church, sculptured lace on effigy in, 321 n927 + + Harent, Ignace, 230 + + Harrison, Major, rich dress of, 333 + + Hartruide, Madame, 279 + + Hartshorne, Albert, cited, 321 n927 + + Hatfield, old needlework at, 11 + + Hathaway family, embroidered bed linen of, 325 n941 + + Hauslaub, General von, 263 + + Havre lace, 183 n539, 217 n595, 218; + number of lace-makers (1692), 216, 218 + + Hay, Lord, 64 + + Hayman, Mrs., 410 + + Head, R. E., quoted, 391 n1127 + + Headdresses (_See also_ Fontange) + Louis XIV. styles, 164-166 + mignonette lace used for, 35 + prices of "heads," 348 + Roman, 165 n486 + + "Heller," 391 + + Helmin, Fr. Margaretha, 502 + + Henderson, Anne, 430 + + Heneage, George, 346 + + Henrietta Maria + inventory of, cited, 29 and n87, 146 n426 + present from, to Anne of Austria, 330 and n961 + + Henry II. (England), 37, 202 and n569 + + -------- (France), introduces lace ruff, 139, 140 and n393, 262 n701 + + Henry III. (England), 37, 43; + portrait in Pattern Book, 480 + + ---------- (France), 140 and n396, 141 + + Henry IV. (France) + fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n501 + Isle of Paris industry, probable connection with, 210 + measures of, against luxury of dress, 141-142 and n405 + shirt worn by, when assassinated, 142-143 and n412 + + ------ VI., laces in fashion in time of, 286 and n761 + + ------ VII., lace of time of, 288, 289 and n772 + + ------ VIII. + Act for the true making of pins, 294 n794 + foreign lace allowed in England by, 67, 291 + inventory of, cited, 372 n1098; + quoted, 104 + lace of, 64, 289, 291-292 and n772 + sumptuary laws of, 436 and n1220 + wardrobe account of, quoted, 289 and n768, n769 + + ------, Prince (1607), 296 n798 + + Herault, Chancellor, 143 and n416 + + Herbert, Miss, 416 + + Herbouville, cited, 131 n371 + + Herculaneum, drawn wire lace found at, 72 + + Hergosse, M. de, 177 n525 + + Hesse, Landgrave, French fugitives received by, 265 and n711 + + Hieronimo, Fra., 469 + + High Wycombe, lace industry of, 380 + + Hippisley, Sir John Cox, quoted, 329; + veil bequeathed to, 421 + + Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74 + + Hoche, General, 13 + + Hoffmann, Hans, 469 + + Holcroft, Mr., 169 n499 + + Hölesom, 280 + + Holidays in Roman Catholic countries, 102 n302 + + Holland + Dutch extravagance in lace, 260 + Haarlem thread, advantage of, to, 259 and n695, n697 + lace imported into, 251, 254 + lace industry in, 258-260 and n689 + rivalry with French lace trade, 258 + + Hollie work, 325 and n939 + + Hollow lace, 299 and n816 + + Holme, Randle, cited, 31, 344; + quoted, 251, 296 n799, 339 + + Holstein, daughter of Duke John of, 275 + + Holyrood Palace, lace trimmed basket in, 420 + + Honfleur lace, 183 n539, 218 + + Honiton, lace school at, 414 + + -------- lace + account of, 399-411 + bobbins and pillows used in, 415 n1166 + Bruges lace a rival to, 133 + guipure, 40 + Indian contrasted with, 89 + Japanese imitations of, 417 + point duchesse compared with, 123 + + -------- lace-makers, skill of, 417 n1171 + + Hope, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 423 + + Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194 + + Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170 + + Hove, Callys de, 306 + + Howel's Letters, quoted, 317 n906 + + Hubert, Soeur, cited, 220 n606 + + Hugo, Victor, quoted, 135, 164; + cited, 136 n384 + + Humphrey, Thomas, 401 + + Hungarian lace, 268 + + Hungerford, Sir Edward, 395 + + Hunt, Susanna, 438 + + Hurdle, Mary, 395 + + Hutchins, quoted, 396 n1133 + + Hutchinson, Colonel, 333 + + ----------, Mrs., Memoirs of, cited, 12 + + Hutton, Sir Timothy, 71 + + Iberian lace, 104 + + Ile de France. _See_ Isle de France + + India + lace exported to, 241, 251, 253, 322 n928, 329 and n958 + pillow-laces of, 88 and n263, 89 + + India Museum, pillow laces in, 89 + + Indian muslin, 179-180 + + ------ work of Denmark, 275 + + Innishmacsaint, 446 + + Innocent IV., Pope, 7 + + Inquisition, lace-trimmed banner of, 100 + + Insertion, 388 + + Ionian Isles + lace manufacture of, 85 + lace from tombs of, 365 + + Ipsden, Vicar of, MS. in possession of, 286 n761 + + Ireland + Bath and Shirley School, 440 + club against "foreign fopperies," 438 + Dublin Society, the, 429, 437, 439 + lace industry in, 436-446; + Maltese guipures made in, 88; + Irish point, 443 and n1233 + prize offered by, for Dresden point, 262 + sumptuary laws in, 435, 436 and n1220 + yellow dye of, 307, 435, 436 + + Iron Mask, 166 n490 + + Isabella, Infanta, 113 + + --------, Princess (Sweden), 279 n746 + + "Isabelle" tint, 121 + + Ischia lace, 71, 263 and n705 + + Isle de France + lace industry in + centres of (17th century), 209 and n582, 210 + Chantilly, 212-215 + cheap laces, 210 + Dumont's fabric, 211 + Huguenots engaged in, 209 + Spanish imports of lace from, 99 + + Israel, J., 469 + + Italians, dishonesty of, in lace trade (Henry VII.'s time), 48, 67, 288 + + Italy (_For_ towns, etc., _see their titles_) + France, relations with, 16th century, 476 + invention of lace claimed by, 109; + of point lace, 45 + lace imported by, 245, 251 n670 + lace of (_See also_ Point _and_ Punto) + centres of manufacture before 1665, 44 n144 + England, fashionable in, 318; + imitated in, 416 n1169, 417 + Greek lace manufacture, centres of, 85 + Points in relief of, counterfeits of, 105 + Spanish point attributed to, 93, 97 + lace schools of, 81 n249 + revolutions in, lace seized during, 51 and n175 + silk gimp specimens from, 85 + Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 + white thread made in, 49 n165 + + Jabot, 172 + + Jacobites, 425, 426 + + James I. + gold purle manufacture prohibited by, 319 and n921 + Great Wardrobe Account, 311 n878, 317 and n903, 318 nl7 + Honiton lace industry in time of, 401 + lace of, 64 + monopolies granted by, 318-319, 378 + period of, 315-326 + ruffs under, 315-318 + + ------ II. + Edinburgh visited by, 425 + period of, 340 + + ------ V. (of Scotland), 372 n1098, 418 and n1172 + + ------ VI. (of Scotland), 422 and n1195 + + ------, Jacques, 205 + + Jane Seymour, 292 + + Japan, Honiton lace imitated in, 417 + + Jean lace. _See_ Genoa lace + + Jerphanion, Sieur, 244 + + Jersey, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097 + + Jesuit lace, 445 and n1234 + + Jesuits, inventory of, cited, 331 + + Jesurum, Cav. Michelangelo, 62 + + Jew stick, 491 and n1349 + + Jewellery of 18th century, 346 + + Jews + Athenian lace used by, 86 + embroidery of (ancient), 2 + gold and silver lace made by, 92 and n270 + + Jingles of bobbins, 391 n1127 + + Johan Adolf, Prince, 282 + + Johnson, Dr., quoted, 367 + + Jointeuse, work of, 122 + + Jolly, Margareta, 348 + + Jonson, Ben, quoted, 43 n139, 302, 313 n890, 316 and n922, 318 n910, + n912, 327 + + Josephine, Empress, 123 n351, 177 n526 + + Jours, 31 + + Judith of Bavaria, 5 + + Junius, Hadrianus, 114 n327 + + Junot, Madame. _See_ Abrantès, Duchesse d' + + Jurdaine, Mary, 306 + + Jutland lace industry, 274 + + Katherine of Aragon, Queen + Bedfordshire lace-industry attributed to, 375 and n1106, n1107, 376 + needlework of, 9, 10 and n32 + portrait of, 129 n367 + Spanish fashions introduced by 10 n32, 310 + + ----------, Queen (wife of Charles II.), 43 + + ---------- Parr, Queen, 10 n34 + + Keck, 423 + + Keller, Dr. Ferd, 270 n728 + + Kenmare, lace industry of, 443, 444 + + Kennedy, Tristram, 440 + + Kettering, lace industry of, 384 + + Killigrew, quoted, 318 n908 + + Kilravock, Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of, 425 n1198 + + Kinsale, lace industry at, 422 n1187 + + Knight, cited, 396 + + ------, Miss, quoted, 264 + + Knole, old needlework at, 11 + + Knotted fringe, 13 and n47 + + -------- lace, 52, 68 + + Knox, Miss Jane, 438 + + Koehler, statuette by, 262 + + Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366 + + La Boord, Madame, 43 + + La Chaise-Dieu, lace industry at, 249 + + "La Fontange," story of, 164 + + La Mancha, lace factory at, 102 + + La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357 + + La Perrière, 155 n454, 157 n458 + + "La Providence" nuns, 226 + + La Vallière, 154, 464 n1280 + + Laborde, cited, 151 n438 + + Lace (_See also_ Old lace) + Biblical meaning of term, 2 + definition of term, 26 + foreign equivalent of term, 26 n77 + manufactures of, before 1665, 44 n144 + parts of, 30 + point and pillow, 32 + + ---- Association, aims of, 393 + + Laced handkerchiefs, 310 and n874 + + Lace-makers, ill-health of, 415 + + Lacis + Aurillac, 248 + book of (1587), 18 + definition of, 20 and n61, 21 + _Don Quixote_, mentioned in, 98 n281 + German, 264 + Punto a maglia quadra, 52 + Sicilian, 81 + Tuscan, 68 + + Ladies as lace-makers, 163, 337, 355, 373, 374 and n1103 + + Ladomie, M., cited, 170 n501 + + Laffemas, quoted, 209 n583 + + Laid work, 301 + + Laimoxen, Balthasar, 489 + + Lalande, cited, 64 + + Lalma, 246 + + Lamb represented in lace, 21 + + Lamballe, Princesse de, 213 + + Lappets. _See_ Barbe + + Larkin, Thomas, 312 + + Laroche, lace made at, 137 + + Larruga, cited, 101 + + Lassels, cited, 70; + quoted, 73 + + Latomus, Sigismund, 267, 491, 492 + + Lauber, Miss Jacobina, 282 + + Laulne, E. de, 476 + + Launceston, lace-making at, 371 n1094 + + Laval, Geneviève, 183 n540 + + Laybach, 268 + + Le Prince, 465 + + Le Puy + lace industry of + cheap laces, 246 + descriptions of lace of, 245 + export trade, 245; + value of annual export, 245 and n657 + Haarlem thread used in, 245 + import duties decreased, 244 and n653 + numbers employed in, 242; + (1851), 257 n688; + in making Valenciennes, 245 + sumptuary laws (seventeenth century), effect of, on, 243 + lace schools of, 246 and n659 + museum at, 246 + Valenciennes lace at, 230 and n619 + + Le Quesnoy lace, 157 n459, 230 + + Lead, bobbins made of, 74 n235 + + Leber, M., cited, 487 n1336 + + Lee, Rev. William, 448 n1240 + + Lefébure, A. + blondes mates exported by, 226 + point d'Argentan revived by, 208 + quoted, 75 n237, 155 n453, 158 n463, 159 n464, 194, 200; + cited, 228, 250, 269 n724 + teaching improved by, 227 + + Leicester, Countess of, 330 + + Leipsic, fair, 196 and n563; fabrics (1685), 265 + + Lennox, Countess of, 314 + + ------, Duke of, 419 and n1176 + + Léonard, 181 + + Lepage, M., 134 + + L'Estoille, P. de, quoted, 141 n399 + + L'Estrange, Sir Thomas, 290 + + _Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain_, quoted, 97-98 + + Leu, Sieur de la, manufactory of, 205-206 + + Liedts, Baroness, 138 + + Liège lace + account of industry, 136-137 + point de Sedan, connected with, 254 + price of (1701), 136 n386 + + Lierre + Mechlin lace made at, 125 + pictures in St. Gomar, 109 n317 + + Light reflectors, bottles used as, 390 and n1125 + + Liguria, guipures of, 74 + + Lille + lace + compared with Spanish lace, 103; + with Arras, 235, 240; + with Valenciennes, Brussels and Mechlin, 237 + cost of thread, 237 and n637 + England, popularity in, 237 and n640; + Bedfordshire lace called "English Lille," 385 + ground, 236-237 + modern, 238 + lace-industry + antiquity of, 235 + decline of, 238 + dress of lace-makers, 235 and n630 + French duty on lace (1761), 237 n635 + mignonette made (1665), 35 + numbers employed in (1723), 237 n640; + (1788), 238, 257 n688 + rivalry with Mirecourt, 252 + value of (1788), 238 + lace-workers, daily amount produced by, 233 + thread, fineness of, 119 n339; + price of, 192 n553, 237 and n637; + export of, to Scotland, 432 + + Limerick lace, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231, n1232; + lace school, 442 + + Limousin, 250 + + Lincoln, maiden assize at, 338 n991 + + Linen + embroidery of, 14 + macramé, 79 and n248 + + Lisbon, lace factories at, 105 + + Lisle, Lady, 290 and n780 + + Loch, David, quoted, 433 and n1214; + cited, 434 + + Locke, quoted, 430 + + Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n354, 174 n520 + + Lombard peasants, lace worn by, 64 + + London + foreigners in (1571-1688), 129 n366, 299 n817, 306 and n853; + complaint of women against introduction of foreign merchants, 286; + complaints against foreign lace-makers, 324 n935 + lace-making in, 373 + + ------, Bishop of, sermon by, against ruffs, quoted, 316 and n899 + + ------ _Chronicle_, cited, 4 + + ------ _Gazette_, quoted, 11 n39, 126 + + Long Island, lace-making by Protestant settlers in, 372 n1099 + + Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208 + + Lonrai (Lonray), lace factory at, 155 n455, 156 and n457; + sale of stock, 196 + + ------, Marquise de, 157 n457 + + _Lord Thomas_ (ballad), quoted, 15 + + L'Orme, Marion de, quoted, 125 + + Lorraine, lace industry (_see also_ Mirecourt), 251 and n672, n673; + Mignonette made (1665), 35; + numbers employed (1851), 257 n688 + + --------, Queen Louise de, 144 + + Lost property, advertisements for, 337 and n990, 338 and n992, 342 n1010 + + Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226 + + Loudun, 256 + + Louis XI., 139 n393 + + ------ XIII. + collar made at Venice for, 194 + death of, 149 + Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 + luxury and fashions of time of, 144-147 + + ------ XIV. + census of (1684), 131 + cravats presented to ambassadors by, 163 + death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192 + fashions of reign of, 161 _et seq._ + fête at Marly, 163 + Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 + gold and silver lace of period of, 154 + Paris lace commerce under, 211 + sumptuary laws of, 152 + + ------ XV. + Court of, 172 and n505 + fashions under + black lace masks, 177 + jabots, 172-173 + mourning, 178 + relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174 + ruffles, 171-173 + point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n566 + trousseau of eldest daughter of, 176 + + ------ XVI. + fashions under, 179-181 + phraseology of time of, 181 + point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 + ruffles of, 172 n508 + + Louisa, Queen (Sweden), 279 + + Louise de Vaudemont, Queen, 18, 478, 480 + + Louvain, pictures and altar piece at, 109, 110 and n317 + + --------, Widow, attempt of, to establish manufacture at Mortagne, 206 + + Louvres, lace-making at, 209 + + -------- en-Parisis lace, 212 n589 + + Lovat, Lady, 426 n1202 + + Low Countries. _See names of countries_ + + Lowndes, cited, 497 n1360, 500 + + --------, Richard, 380 + + Lubec, 264 + + Lucca, gold lace, 92 + + Lude, Duchesse de, 167 and n495 + + Luxada, cited, 75 + + Luxembourg, M. de, 167 + + ----------, Maréchale de, 180 + + Luynes, Duc de, Memoirs of, quoted, 174 and n518, 176 n522 + + Luzarches lace, 212 + + Lydgate, quoted, 305 + + Lygum Kloster, 274 n736, 276 n738 + + Lyme Regis, lace industry of, 396-398 + + Lyons lace, 256 + + Lysons, cited, 384, 396; quoted, 405, 408 + + Mabbie, 423 + + Macaulay, John, 439 n1227 + + McCulloch, cited, 384 + + ----------, E., cited, 224 n610 + + McCullow, Miss Martha, 438 + + Mache, 22 n70 + + Machine net, introduction of, 408 + + Machinery--"engines" of foreigners for lace-making, 324 n935 + + Maclean, Rev. William, 442, 443 + + McPherson, quoted, 112 n324 + + Macramé, 52, 79 and n247 + + Madden, Sir Fred., quoted, 297 n812 + + Madeira, laces of, 106, 107 and n316 + + Madras, Maltese-like lace made in, 88 n263 + + Madrid, lace factory at, 102 + + Magnus, Prince (Sweden), 280 + + Maidstone, complaints of, regarding imported Flemish thread, 324 n935 + + Mailly, Madame, 250 + + Maine, Madame de, 167 + + Maintenon, Madame de, 168, 183; + letter to, quoted, 99; + lace factory of, 163; + letter from, quoted, 172 and n506 + + _Malcontent_, quoted, 322 + + Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n561, 251 n674 + + -------- lace. _See_ Mechlin lace + + Malta, grave-clothes lace-trimmed at, 365 + + Maltese lace + account of industry, 87 and n262, 88 + Danish manufacture of, 275 + English manufacture of, 392, 393, 414 n1165 + Greek lace similar to, 86 + Guipure, 40 + Madeira manufacture of, 107 n316 + Saxon manufacture of, 263 + + Man, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1096 + + Manchester thread, 119 n339 + + Manchettes. _See_ Ruffles + + Manegetti di ponto Fiamengo, 111 + + Manilla grass thread-work, 89 n265 + + Mantegna, Andrea, 467 + + Mantillas, 226 + + Manzoni, Count, cited, 488 n1340 + + Mar, Countess of, 419 and n1176 + + Marcello, Countess Andriana, 61 + + Marche lace, 68, 138 n392 + + Marcq, Catherine de, 157 n458, 158 n460, 190 + + Mare, de la, cited, 148 n431, 152 n440 + + Margaret of Austria, 23 n74 + + Margherita, Queen of Italy, 61, 62 + + Margot, Reine, 11, 22, 49, 141, 142 + + Marguerite de France, 11 n36, 22, 27, 33 n102 + + Maria d'Aragon, portrait of, in pattern book, 497 + + ------ Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, 491 + + Marie Antoinette + autograph letter, referred to, 213 + fans and laces distributed by, 180 + fashion at court of, 179-180 + gazette of (1782), 181 n537 + point de Marli worn by, 225 + sale of lace of, 183 + + ------ Louise, Brussels lace presented to, 124; + lace trousseau of, 184, 196 + + ------ Theresa, 259 and n699 + + Marnef, Hierosme de, 496 + + Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n428, 265 n715 + + Marini, cited, 58 + + Marlborough, lace industry at, 395 + + Marli, 180 and n532 + + Marly, fête at, 163 + + Marriott, William, 380 + + Marryat, Captain, cited, 413; + lace industry assisted by, 410 + + --------, Mrs., 500 n1365 + + --------, Miss Cecilia, 410 + + Marsan, Comte de, 210 and n585 + + ------, Mlle. de, 211 + + Mary, Princess, daughter of George II., 348 + + ---- I. + accounts of, quoted, 297 + gift of Spanish work to, 10 n32; + Flanders work to, 294 + interment of, 180 + present to Lady Calthorpe, 297 + ruffs of, 310 + sumptuary laws, 293 + + ---- of Burgundy, 135 + + ----, Queen of Hungary, 113 + + ---- de Médicis + collarette of, 143-144 + death of, 149 + fashion dolls sent to, 170 n501 + pattern book dedicated to, 22, 494 + point de Gennes of, 72 + sumptuary law published by, 144 and n419; + evaded by, 149 and n434 + + Mary of Modena, Queen, 341, 425 + + ---- II. + fontange of, 342 + knotted fringe worked by, 13 and n47 + lace bills of, quoted, 168 n496 + Mechlin ruffles of, 126 and n364 + + ---- Stuart + dentelle of, 27 + finery of, overhauled by Elizabeth, 307 and n860 + guipures of, 37 and n120, 38 + inventories of, cited, 21, 33 n102, 302 n828, 314, 325 n939, 372 n1098 + needlework done by, 10, 11, 420, 421 + ruff on effigy of, 316 n901 + wardrobe of, 419 and n1177, 420 and n1182, 421 + will of, 22 + + Masch (Mawsch) 22 and n70, 419 + + Massillon, encouragement of lace industry by, 243 + + Massimo, Prince, reference to library of, 466, 468 n1290, 495 n1357 + + Massinger, quoted, 265 n717, 296 and n804 + + Matignon, Mlle, de, 176 + + Matilda, Empress, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 n22 + + --------, Queen, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 and n23 + + Matsys, Quentin, 109, 110 + + Matthew of Paris, anecdote by, 7 + + Maximilian, King of the Romans, 289 + + Maynard, Mrs. Lydia, 404 + + Mayne, Jasper, quoted, 317 and n905, 324 and n936 + + Mazarin, Cardinal, 143 n412, 150, 151 and n439, 248 + + Mazzarine, 343 and n1017 + + Mechlin lace + arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 + "Broderie de Malines" a term for, 125 + characteristic of, 31, 125 + compared with Bayeux lace, 228; + with Brussels, 118; + with Cretan mesh work, 87; + with Lille, 237; + with point de Dieppe, 218; + with St. Trond, 137; + with Valenciennes, 233 + decline of manufacture, 125 + description of, 124-125 + earliest references to, 125-126 + English fashion for, 126 + grounds in, 125 + imperial layette (1856), in, 198 + Lille, pattern adopted at, 238 + points de France rivalled by, 177-178 + Pope's apron bordered with, 70 + Turnhout manufacture of, 125, 131 + uses of, 127-128 + varieties included by term (1665), 35 + + ---- net, 448 + + Medici collars, 56 + + Médicis family (_See also_ Katherine _and_ Mary), influence on fashions, + 139 + + Melville, Sir Robert, 37 + + _Memoirs of Madame Palatine_, cited, 354 + + Men as lace workers + Chili, 108 + England, 392; + south, 371 n1092; + Northamptonshire, 385; + Devonshire, 413, 414 + France, 155 + Madeira, 107 n316 + Normandy (soldiers), 225 + Saxony, 263 + work of, compared with that of women, 263 + + Menin lace, 232 n624 + + Menzikoff, Prince, funeral of daughter of, 366 n1083 + + Meran blonde, 256 + + Mercier, Baron, lace school of, 196 + + ----, S., quoted, 121 and n348, 170 n500, 171 and n502 + + Méric lace, 212 + + Merli, Cav. Antonio, cited, 46 and n150, 47, 50, 462, 466, 468 n1291, + n1292, 487 + + Merli à piombini, 32 n98 + + Mermaid's lace, 49 + + Meshes, Cretan skill in, 86 + + Messina, lace work at, 81 + + Metal laces, Sicilian, 86 + + Mexico, mantillas exported to, 226 + + Meyer, Daniel, 496 + + Mézières lace, 183 n539, 253, 254 + + Mezzo punto, 58 + + Michel, Francisque, cited, 104; + quoted, 251 n669 + + ----, Pfarrer, 266 + + Michele, La Sig. Gabriella Zeno, 484 + + Middleton, quoted, 312 n884 + + Mignerak, Milour, pattern book of, 21, 22, 29, 493 + + Mignonette, 34 and n107, 35 and nn, 210, 237, 251 + + Milan + Albissola lace bought for Napoleon I.'s coronation at, 78 + Cantu the centre of lace of, 66 + cathedral, lace camicie in underground chapel of, 66 + early record of Italian lace belonging to, 63 + Genoese lace contrasted with lace of, 75 n236 + Greek lace made at, 85 + Old Milan point, 65 + punto di Napoli contrasted with point of, 71 + réseau of points of, 66 + wire lace industry at, 72 + + Milward & Co., 380 + + Minas Geraes, lace of, 108 + + Minifie, Mrs., 400 and n1140, 401 and n1142 + + Mirecourt lace, 212, 238, 251-253, 257 n688 + + Misson, F. M., cited, 54 n186; + quoted, 267 + + Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., advertisement of school of, 431 n1209 + + Modano, Tuscan, 52, 68 + + Modène, Duchess of + inventory of, quoted, 120 n344, 121 n347, 128 n363, 135 and n383, 175 + n520, 213 and n590 + ruffles of, 233 + + Modes, 31 + + Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n442, 173 n515 + + Mompesson, Sir Giles, 318 and n914 + + Monaghan, crochet industry of, 444, 445 + + Moncrieffe, Sir Thomas, 425 + + Monks, needlework done by, 12 and n40 + + Mons lace, 134-135 + + "Monsieur de Paris," 173 + + Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 57, 59, 73; + quoted, 128, 356 and n1061 + + Montague, Mrs. Elizabeth, quoted, 352 + + ---- R., account entry by, 335 n982 + + Montargis, 256 + + Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28 + + Montchrestien, cited, 209 n583 + + Monteagle, Lord, 10 n32 + + Monteleon, Princess of, 98 + + Monthulay, family, 204 + + ---- Sieur de, 205, 206 + + Montmorency, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589 + + Montrose, pearlin of, 423 + + Moorish lace, 104 + + Moors, Spanish lace-making attributed to, 45 + + Morant, Captain, 440 + + More, Mrs. Hannah, quoted, 368 + + Moreau, General, 13 + + Moretti, Nicolo, 484 + + Morgan, cited, 435 + + ---- Sydney, Lady, 369 + + Morges lace, 212 n589 + + Morin, M.A., cited, 220 n606 + + Mortagne, 206 + + Moryson, Agnes, quoted, 55, 70, 73, 87, 258, 265, 268, 274 + + Moscow, lace school at, 284 + + Motteville, Mme., quoted, 154 n447 + + Mountague, Alice, 308 + + Mourning, lace discarded in, in James I.'s time, 324 + + Murat, Caroline, 183 + + ---- laces, 248, 249 + + Mzeresk lace, 283 + + Nanduti, 108 + + Nani, Signora Viena Vendramina, 485 + + Nankin silk thread, 223 n608 + + Naples + Greek lace made at, 85 + lace from a palace at, 51 n175 + lace of, 70-71; + lace work of industrial school at, 83 n352 + + Napoleon + bed made for, 196 + favourite laces of, 128, 184 + lace industry encouraged by, 123-124, 183-185, 196; + attempt to revive Valenciennes, 231. + + Nardendal, custom of natives of, 283 + + National Gallery portraits, illustrations of ruffs in, 316 n901 + + Navarre, Queen of, accounts of, quoted, 67, 141 n406, 142 n409, n411 + + Needle lace (_See also_ Point à l'aiguille) + Alençon known as "needle-point," 195 + Irish, 443 + method of making, 32 + Queen Elizabeth's, 305 + + Nelson, Lord, anecdote of, 264 + + Nemours, Duchesse de, 235 + + Nesmond, Marquis de, 117 and n331 + + Netherlands. _See_ Flanders, Belgium, Holland _and_ Brabant + + Netting, 20, 21, 52; + machine net, 408 + + Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n726 + + Neville, Mary, marriage clothes of, 291 n779 + + New Ross convent, lace made at, 444 + + Newport Pagnel lace, 375 n1105, 378, 382, 384 + + Newton, Rev. John, letter from Cowper to, 379 + + Nicholas, Edward, 329 n957 + + -------- Susanne, 329 n957 + + Nichols, quoted, 294 n791, 303 n833 + + Nicolas, Etienne, 160 n466 + + Night caps, 323 + + Noailles, Madame de, anecdote of, 180 n533 + + Normanby, Lady, 441 + + Normandy + lace industry of. (_See also_ Calvados _and_ Dieppe) + centres of, 216, 218 + French Revolution, effect of, 223 + mignonette made (1665), 35 + numbers employed in different localities, 228 n614; + (1851), 257 n688 + value of, 228 n614 + peasant women, Valenciennes bought by, 235 + + Norris, Sir Henry, 307 + + Northamptonshire lace, 384-393 + + Nosegays, lace trimmings for, 55 + + Nottingham lace, 441; + Isle of Wight lace compared with, 372 n1097; + machine-made blondes, 225; + imitation mantillas, 227 + + Novgorod, fabric at, 283 + + Nuns, lace washed by, 373 and n1101 + + ---- as lace-makers + Flanders, 354 + Italy, 47 and n154; + Burano, 58; + Florence, 67, 68; + Cantu, 80 + Portugal, 105, 107 + Spain, 93 + + Nuremberg, 266, 267 + + Oberkirch, Baroness de, extract from Memoires of, 182 + + O'Brien, Mrs. R. V., 442 + + O'Hagan, Mother Abbess, 443 + + O'Halloran, Mr., 436 + + Old lace + indifference to, 368 and n1090 + mania for, 369 + restoration of, 411, 412 + + Oldfield, Mrs., 367 + + Olney, lace industry of, 378, 380 n1119 + + Opus tract, 302 + + Orfreys, 3 n13 + + Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n489 + + -------- Dukes of, inventories of, quoted, 120 n342, n344, 221 and n607 + + Orléanois lace industry, 256 + + Orsa lace, 281 + + Ostans, Giovanni, 484 + + ------ Jean, 475 + + Oudenarde lace, 134 + + Our Lady of La Solidad, costly robes of, 90 + + --- ---- of Loreto, laces of, not described, 69 + + Overbury murder, 317 + + Oxford, opinion of, on falling bands, 326 + + ------ Countess of, 9 n31 + + Oyah (Turkish crochet), 45, 87 + + Pagan, Mathio, 468, 471 + + Paganino, Alessandro, 468 + + Paganinus, P. A., 472 + + Paget, Lady, 295 + + Pagodes, 168 n496 + + Paintings, earliest in which lace occurs, 47; + lace in paintings of 18th century, 222, 364 + + Palatine, Count, 326 + + -------- Madame, 168; + Memoires of, quoted, 178 + + Pale of rose point, 51 and n174 + + Palermo + grave clothes at, 366 and n1081 + sculptured lace in villa near, 71 + + Palestine, lace-making at, 59 and n195 + + Pandore, la grande, 170 + + Parasole, Elisabetta Catanea, 495 + + -------- Isabella Catanea, 491, 496 + + Parchment lace, 37 and n122, 38 and n126, n129, n131, 297, 298 + + Paris + churches, lace of, 120 n342, 161 n467, n469 + English laces in demand at (1788), 368, 379 + exhibitions. _See under_ Exhibitions + lace industry + Binche and Mirecourt flowers applied at, 212 + Bisette made (1665), 33 and n102 + commerce of lace under Louis XIV, 211 and n587 + Dumont's fabric, 211 + factories round, 209 + guipures made (1665), 36 and n114 + mignonette made (1655), 35 + numbers employed (1851), 257 n688 + passementiers privileged in, 44 + pattern books in, 12 and n43 + + Parisini, Agostino, 477 + + Partlet, 297 n810 + + Pasax, Marquis de, 190 + + Pasini, Tomaso, 483 + + Pasment in Scotland, 418 + + Pasolini, Countess, 81 n248 + + Passament (passement) + definition of term, 26 and n79, 27 + guipure a kind of, 36 + references to, 27-29 + + "Passement Bond, The," 419 + + Passerotti, Aurelio, 472 + + Pattern-books + Belgium + Antwerp (n. d.), 130, 463 + Liège (1597), 136, 488 + cut-works, of (1591), 20 n62 + earliest dated, 18; + earliest known, 376 n1108 + England + London (1591), 482; + (1624), 497; + (1632), 499; + (1640), 500 + Northampton, 384 + France + Lyon (n. d.), 92 n269, 465, 466; + (1549) 92 n269, 144, 464; + (1581), 475 + Mignerak's, 21, 22, 29, 144, 493 + Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490 + Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n43; + in St. Geneviève's library, 12; + (n. d.), 468; + (1530) 144, 461; + (1546), 464; + (1564), 475; + (1584), 476; + (1587), 17, 18, 477; + (1587, 1588, 1595, 1606), 479-481; + (1601), 20 n62, 490; + (1605), 493; + (1613), 494; + (1623), 498; + (1722), 501 + Germany + Augsburg (1534), 267, 462 + Cologne (1527), 268, 459 + Frankfort (n.d.), 470; + (1537), 470 + Frankfort-on-the-Maine (1568, 1569, 1571), 470; + (1605), 267, 491; + (1607), 492; + (1618), 496 + Leipsic (1619), 496 + Lindau am Bodensee (n.d.), 488 + Nuremberg (n.d.) 502; + (1597), 489; + (1601, 1604), 266, 490; + (1666), 501; + (1676), 501 + Nuremberg and Leipzig, (1784), 501 + Strasburg (1556), 469 + gold and silver lace, of, 92 + Italy + Bologna (n.d.), 477; + (1591), 483 + Florence (1596), 488 + Padua (1555), 469; + (1604), 491 + Pistoja (1642), 53 n181, 85, 92 n269, 500 + Rome (1616), 495; + (1625), 496 + Siena (1603), 488 + Turin (1589), 481 + Venice (n.d.), 466, 471, 498; + (1529), 461; + (1530), 53 n179, 460; + (1532), 462; + (1537), 462; + (1542), 463; + (1543, 1544), 464; + (1548), 53 n179, 468; + (1551), 468; + (1556), 469; + (1557), 472; + (1558), 471; + (1559), 92 n269, 471, 472; + (1560), 473; + (1563), 474; + (1564), 53 n179, 54 n182, 474, 475; + (1567), 475; + (1584), 476; + (1591), 53 n179, 54 n182, 484; + (1592) (Corona of Vecellio), 50 n167, 54 n182, 484; + (1594), 486; + (1600), 68, 491, 496; + (1620 and 1625), 54 n182, 497 + Samplars a substitute for, 22-23 + Switzerland + Basle (1599), 271, 490 + St. Gall (1593), 271, 487 + Zurich, 271, 469 + unknown points in, 54 n182 + Vienna Museum, in, 263 + + Pauline, Princess, 184, 185 + + Pays de Caux, 216 + + Peacham, quoted, 325, 329 + + Pearl (picot), 31 + + ------ ties, 31 + + Pearlin, 422, 423 + + Pedlars, lace trade carried on by, 43 and n139, 44 and n142, n143 + + Pelegrin, Francisque, pattern book of, 144, 461 + + Pelican represented in lace, 21 + + Pellestrina, revival of pillow lace at, 62 + + Pembroke, Countess of, 322, 500 + + Peniche + bobbins used at, 106 n314 + lace industry of, 107 and n315 + + Pennant, quoted, 382; + cited, 431 n1208 + + Penne, Mrs., 294 + + Penshurst, old needlework at, 11 + + Penthièvre, Duc de + Eu lace patronised by, 221 + inventory of, quoted, 117 n333, 195 n549 + wardrobe account of, quoted, 172 and n510, n511, 211 n588 + + Peplos, embroidery of, 3 n8 + + _Pepys' Diary_, quoted, 153 n444, 337, 338 + + Persia, drawn-work of, 45 + + Peru and Mexico, lace imported to, from Le Puy, 245 + + Perugia, Torchon made at, 81 n248 + + Peter the Great, 283 + + Petersen, Anders, 280 + + Petre, Madame, of Gefle, information supplied by, 282 n750 + + Peuchet, cited, 132, 224, 256, 265, 377, 395; + quoted, 216 n595, 218 n600, 220 n605, 225, 237 n640, 239, 244, 245 and + n657, 268, 396, 432 + + "Pharsalia" quoted, 25 + + Philip II. (Spain), 67, 310 + + ------ III. (Spain), 97 + + Philippa, Queen, 278, 285 and n754 + + Philippine Islands, Manilla grass threadwork of, 89 n265 + + Phrygians, embroidery of, 3 and n13 + + Pianesani, Francesco, 462 + + Picard, M., 490 n1346 + + Picchetti, Marie, 79 + + Pichon, Baron J., 482, 493 n1355, 495 n1356 + + Pickleman, Jungfrau, 266 + + Pickpockets, 346 + + Picot (pearl), 31 and n92 + + Pigott, Miss, quoted, 421 + + Pillows + Barcelona, 103 n305 + description of, 391 + foreign names for, 32 n99 + Honiton, 415 n1156 + + Pillow guipure, 116 + + ------ lace (bobbin lace) + Austrian, 268 + bobbin lace, so called 32 + Ceylon, of, 88 + foreign names for, 32 n98 + France, extension of industry in (seventeenth century), 159; + trade crisis (1818), 187; + fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n584; + gold lace of Paris, 212; + first mentioned in French pattern-books, 494 + Genoese, 74 + Germany, introduction into, 260 + Madeira, at, 107 + Mechlin. _See that title_ + method of making, 32-33 + origin of, 29, 109 + Peniche, at, 107 + Russian, 283 and n751 + Spanish, 103 n305 + Valenciennes. _See that title_ + + ------ net, 150 + + ------ -beres, 16 and n56 + + Pin net machine, 448 + + Pinheiro, Dona Maria Bordallo, letter from, quoted, 107 n315 + + Pins for lace-making, 391 and n1126; + State papers concerning, 294 n794 + + Pinwork lace, 294 n794 + + Piper Countess Elizabeth, 280 + + Pisa, lace work of industrial school at, 81 n248 + + Pitt, French fashions excluded by, 170 + + Pizzo, 74 + + Plaited laces, 392 + + Platteuse, work of, 122 + + Plissés à la vieille, 127 + + Pluymers, Jean, 158 n460 + + Point (stitch), kinds of, 32 + + ------ lace + invention of, claimed by Italy, 45 + misuse of term, 32 + varieties of, 33-35 + + ------ à l'aiguille, 121; + gazée, 123. _See also_ Needle point + + ------ d'Alençon + Argentella, 193 and n555 + Bayeux manufacture of, 228 + Burano manufacture of, 62 + compared, with point d'Argentan, 203, 204 and n571; + with Brussels, 194, 199; + with Colbertine, 339; + with point Gaze, 123; + with Sedan lace, 254 + dress of, purchased by Emperor Napoleon, 198 + earliest use of name, 195 and n557, n558, n560 + grounds in, 193 + imperial layette of, 198 + industry + Argentan, connection with, 204 + centres of, 200 + decline of, causes for, 192 + early account of, 188-189 + Edict of Nantes, effect of revocation of, 258 + establishment of, 155-157 and n455 + export trade, 192 + method of manufacture, 192-194 + Napoleon's patronage of, 196 + number of lace-workers (1698), 191; + (1786), 195; + (1788), 192 n552; + (1830), 196 + origin of, 111 n323 + quality of lace-work, 159 n464, 187, 194 + revival of, 155 and n454, 196-197 + value of (1786 and 1801), 195; (1830), 196 + invention and establishment of, 155-157 and n455 + lappet of, from Genoa, 78 and n244 + "nun's work," 11 n39 + patterns, 190-191; + dates of, 198-200; + Venice patterns copied, 191 + season for, 178 + shaded tints introduced in, 201 and n567 + specimens of, exhibited, 200, 201 + time required in making, 198, 201 + Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59 + "vilain," 191 n551 + + ------ d'Angleterre + Angleterre à bride, 408 + Aurillac manufacture of, 247 + Burano manufacture of, 62 + butterfly and acorn pattern in, 408 + France, fashionable in, 118 and n336 + history of, 117 and n332, and n333 + point de France rivalled by, 178 + + ------ d'Argentan + "Argentella" possibly a name for, 78 n244 + Armada pattern lace worked in, 397 + Burano manufacture of, 62 + characteristic of, 207 + compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n571; + with point gaze, 123; + with Venetian lace, 203, 204 n571 + description of, 203 + ground in, 203 and n570, 204 n571, 207-208 + industry + Alençon, connection with, 204 + embroidery, replaced by, 208 n580 + Guyard's revival of, 204-205 + number of lace workers (c. 1744), 205; + (1786), 195 + rival houses, 205 + value, annual (1786 and 1801), 195; + (1788), 207 + reference to (1738), 195 and n559 + season for, 178 + + ------ d'Aurillac. 154, 246-249 + + ------ de Bourgogne, 255 + + ------ de Brabant, 138 n392 + + ------ de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre + + ------ à carreaux, 32 + + ------ à chaînette, 32 + + ------ des champs (point de Paris), 35 + + ------ Colbert, 188 n548, 228 + + ------ coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 _et seq._ + + ------ de Dieppe. _See_ Dieppe + + ------ double (point de Paris), 35 + + ------ duchesse, 123 + + ------ d'Espagne. (_See also_ Gold lace) + brides in, 58 + definition of, 90 + England, importation to, prohibited, 358; + Honiton imitation of, 410 + Irish imitation of, 443 n1233 + point d'Aurillac compared with, 248 + Portuguese laces compared with, 98, 106 + Queen Elizabeth's, 307 + references to, 98-99 n283, n285, 100, 103 n306, 354 + + ------ d'esprit, 32 and n94, 229 + + ------ de Flandre (_See also_ Flemish lace), 111, 144-145 + + ------ de France. (_See also_ Point d'Alençon) + description of, made at Alençon, 190 + designs in, 158 n463 + équipage, de bain of, 168 + falbalas of, 167 and n492 + industry + centres of, 157 n459, 159 n459, 210-211 and n584 + Dumont, Mlle., foundress of, 105 n312 + establishment and history of company, 157-158 and n459 + Flanders, effect on, 111 + method of working pattern in, 31 n91 + ordinance of 1665, 157 and n459 + rivals to, 177-178 + popularity in France and England, 161-162 + references to, 157 n459, 159 n464, 195 and n557, n558, n559, n560 + + ------ de Galle, thread lace from, 88 + + ------ Gaze, characteristics of, 123 + + ------ de Gênes (Genoa) + collerette, 141 + France, prohibited in, 148 n431, 154 and n451 + history of, 72-73 and n230, 74 + "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42 + + ------ de Hongrie, 265 + + ------ of Italy, first appearance in France, 144-145 + + ------ de Marli. _See under_ Bayeux, lace industry. + + ------ de Milan, Irish imitation of, 443 + + ------ de Moscow, 284 + + ------ de neige (punto neve), 32 and n97, 51 + + ------ de Paris, 32 and n93, 35, 210, 212 + + ------ plat, 105 n313, 118, 121 and n347, 122 and n350; + appliqué, 123 + + ------ de raccroc, 120, 184, 226 + + ------ de Raguse, 41, 83 and n254, 84 + + ------ à la Reine, 32 + + ------ de Sedan. _See_ Sedan + + ------ tresse, 314 + + ------ de Venise + Alençon imitations of, 191 + characteristics, 123 + England, importation to, prohibited, 358 + France, prohibited in, 154 and n451 + Guipure, 40 + Irish imitation of, 442 + Mary II., image of, shown wearing, 345 + Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 + Moscow imitations of, 284 + origin of, 49-50 + point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123 + point de Raguse so called, 83 + resemblance of, to point d'Argentan, 203, 204 n591; + to Le Puy lace, 245; + to point de Sedan, 254 + "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41 + rose point (raised), 51 and n175, 62; + price of, 57; + Honiton reproduction of, 411, 416; + Irish reproduction of, 443 n1233, 444 + Spanish conventual lace compared with, 93 + theft of, 105 and n313 + + ------ de Venise à réseau, 57, 58 + + Pointeuse, work of, 122 + + Points, lace known as, 2 + + Poitou, 256 + + Poking-sticks, 312 + + Poland + Alençon, trade with, 192 and n553 + point de Sedan imported to, 254 + + Pole, Lady, effigy of, 403 n1145, 405 + + Polignac, Madame de, 180 + + Polychrome lace, 62-63 + + Pomfret, Countess of, 99 n285 + + Pommereu, M. de, quoted, 191 and n550 + + Pomp office, 319 + + Pompadour, Madame de, 184 n540 + + _Pompe di Minerva, Le_, cited, 53 n181, 85, 92 n269 + + Ponchel, du. _See_ Duponchel + + Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n539 + + Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n288 + + Ponto fiamengho, 111 + + Pontoppidan, quoted, 274 n736 + + Pontus de Gardia, 280 + + Pope, quoted, 367 + + ----, the, apron worn by, for feet-washing ceremony, 70 and n217 + + Popplewell Brothers, quoted, 345 + + Porlin, quoted, 306 n854 + + Porter, Mrs. Grey, 440 + + Portland, Duchess of, 353 + + Portugal + American imports of lace from, 106 + bone pins used in, 295 + guipures exported to, 36 + lace-making in, 105-107 and nn + Le Puy, lace imported from, 245 + sumptuary laws in, 105 + + Postlethwait, quoted, 354; cited, 396 + + Pot lace, 130 and n369 + + Potter, Amy, 366 n1086 + + Poussin lace, 219 + + Poyntz, Adrian, 482 + + Prague, altar-cloth at, 9 + + Pridmore, Mr., 389 + + Princess Royal, bridal dress of, 409 + + Prior, quoted, 342 + + Prison-made lace, 81 and n248 + + Protection to English-made laces, etc., by English sovereigns + Charles I., 330 + Charles II., 335 + George III., 359, 363 and n1068 + William III., 341 + + Puisieux lace, 212 n589 + + Puissieux, Madame de, 49 and n162, 73 + + Pultenarian collars, 253. + + Punto in aria (Burano point), 46, 51 and n171, 58, 62 + + Punto di cartella (cordella), 50 + + ------ a gropo, 52 + + ------ a maglia quadra (lacis), 52 + + ------ de mosquito e de transillas, 99 + + ------ di Napoli, 71 + + ------ neve (point de neige), 32 and n97, 51 + + ------ pugliese, 71 n222 + + ------ di Rapallo, 75 n237 + + ------ reale, 50 + + ------ a relievo (rose point--_See under_ Point de Venise) + + ------ a reticella, 50 and n168 + + ------ ricamento a maglia quadra, 21 + + ------ tagliato (cut-work), 51 + + ------ tagliato a fogliami, 51 and n172, 62 + + ------ tirato (drawn work), 53 and n181 + + ------ a Vermicelli, 75 n237 + + Purle lace, 310 and n875, n876, n877 + + Purling, 409 + + Purls, lace known as, 2 + + Puritans, lace industry under, in England, 332-334; + in America, 372 n1099 + + Puteau, Madame, 433 and n1214 + + Queensberry, Duchess of, 356 + + Quentell, P., 459 + + Quicherat, 139 + + Quilles, 127, 168 n496 + + Quintain, 19 and n60, 20 + + Quinty, M., 268 + + ------, P., 459 + + Rabat, 141 and n403 + + Rabbits' hair, lace of 245. + + Radcliffe, Lady, 310 n875 + + Radford, Miss, lace school of, 416 and n1169 + + Raffy, Madame, 157 n458, 202 + + Ragusa, cut-works and laces of, 82-83 + + Rapallo, + number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 + Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn + + Ratcliff, Lady, 294 n791 + + Rättwik lace, 281 + + Ravenna, lace school near, 81 n248 + + Rawert, cited, 274 n732, 277 n741 + + Ray, cited, 67 + + Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49; + cited, 83 + + Rebecq-Rognon, flax grown at, 118 + + Récamier, Madame, 185 + + Regency point, 388 + + Regnard, quoted, 126 and n358, 167 n494 + + Regnier, quoted, 141 + + Reid, Miss, 440 + + Reiffenberg, Baron, cited, 109 and n318 + + Relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174 + + Religious subjects in lace, etc, 324 + + Renaissance, cut-work of, 17 + + René, Maître, 140 n395 + + Renfrew, lace industry at, 433 + + Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil) + Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n281 + methods of making, 120-121 + needle-made by hand, 406 n1151 + nosacé, 78 + specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n74 + uses of, 21 + Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59 + + Restoring of old lace, 411, 412 + + Reticella (Italian) + designs in, 68 + Irish imitation of, 446 + + Retz, Cardinal de, 62 + + Revel, grave-clothes in church at, 366 n1083 + + "Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n134, 43, 104; + cited, 83, 188 + + Rheims lace, 253 + + Rhodes, silk guipure of, 87 + + Riano, J. F., quoted, 93 + + Riazan lace, 283 + + Riband roses, 329 and n959 + + Ricci, Sebastian, cut work shown in "Last Supper" of, 79 n248 + + Rich, B., quoted, 317 n908 + + Richard II., statutes of, 216 n597 + + -------- III., 48, 294 n794 + + Richelieu, Duke, 144, 149 + + ----------, Maréchal de, 171 + + Ripon, lace-making at, 371 and n1095 + + Riviera (_See also_ Albissola, Rapallo, Santa Margherita), lace + manufacture of, 75, 79 and n245 + + _Rob Roy_ cited, 423 + + Roberts, Mrs., 445; + account of lace school supplied by, 388-390 + + Robinson Crusoe, Flanders lace bought by, 134 n379 + + Rodge, James, 401 + + Roger, Widow, 207 + + Rohan, Catherine de, 212 + + ------ family, 182 + + Roland, cited, 36 n113 + + ------ de la Platière, quoted, 154 n451, 223 n608; + cited, 245 n656 + + Romagna, lace-making in, 68 + + Romana, Lucretia, 498 + + ------, Lugretia, 497 + + Romans, embroidery used by, 3 and n13, 4 n14 + + Rome, Greek lace made at, 85 + + ----, King of, 196 + + Rondonneau, M., 152 n440 + + Rose point of Venice. _See under_ Point de Venise + + Rosenborg Palace Museum, 273 + + Rosina Helena, Princess, 501 + + Ross, Mr., 482 + + Rossi, Giovanni, 483 + + Roumanian embroidery, 71 n222 + + Rousseau, Jean Jacques, 270 + + Rowlands, quoted, 289 n773 + + Rudd, Margaret Caroline, 352 + + Rue, Abbé, cited, 6 + + Ruel, Sieur, 155 + + Ruelle, Veuve, 468 + + Ruff + cut-work, of, 312-313 + England, introduction into, 310 + falling band the successor to, 326 + France, in, 139-141 and n399 + James I., under, 315-318 + Medicean, 322 + Nuremberg, 267 + sermons against the, 316 + starching and fluting of, 311-312 + + Ruffles + fashion of, in George I.'s time, 351 + ladies wearers of, 365 and n1077 + long, in George III.'s time, 363 and n1070 + making of, 194 + origin of weeping, 171 + Valenciennes industry affected by disappearance of, 231 + + Run lace, 441 + + Russell, Lady Rachel, 348 + + Russia + embroidery of, 71 n222 + lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199; + from Saxony, 263 + lace industry in, 283-284 + + Ruvigne, M., 331 + + Rymer, cited, 291 n785 + + Sabbio, Fratelli de, 461 + + Sabenqua, 97 + + Sabière, M. de, 172 n505 + + Saffron Walden fair, 43 n137 + + Sainte-Aignau, M. de, 216 + + Saint-Albin, Mgr. C. de, 173 and n508 + + St. Aligre, 247-248 and n663 + + Saint-Brice lace, 213 n589 + + St. Bridget, lace introduced into Sweden by, 278 and n743 + + St. Cuthbert + cope and maniple of, 7 + grave-clothes of, 14-15, 366 + + St. Denis lace, 210 + + St. Dunstan, embroideries designed by, 5 + + St. Eustadiole, 5 + + Saint François Régis, 243 + + St. Gervais, 207 n577 + + St. Giselle, 5 n18 + + St. Lawrence, Lady, 310 n876 + + St. Lo, cut-work toile d'honneur used at, 25 + + St. Louis, hospital at Argentan, 207 + + St. Margaret's, Westminster, lady ancress of, 293 + + St. Martin's lace, 331 n965 + + St. Mary at Hill, 293, 302 n828 + + Saint Maximien, lace of, 212 + + St. Nicholas, flax grown at, 118 n338 + + Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, lace of, 213 n589 + + St. Simon, quoted, 73, 166 + + St. Trond, lace industry of, 137 and n390, n391 + + Salcombe, male lace-maker at, 413 + + Saltonstall, Mistress Susan, 483 + + Salviati, Joseph, 476 + + Samcloths, 23 and n73 + + Samplars, 9 n30, 23 and n73 + + Sandford, cited, 285 n754 + + Sandwich, Lady, 166 + + Sta. Lucie, Pierre de, 464, 465 + + Santa Margherita + number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 + Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn + + Saracens, Italian lace-making attributed to, 45 + + Sarcelles lace, 213 n589 + + Sardinia + deaf and dumb lace-workers in, 81 n248 + Le Puy, annual value of lace brought from, 245 n657 + + Saule, Marchesa Barbaretta, 78 n244 + + Savary, quoted, 36 and n111, 54, 64, 126, 133, 255, 257 n687, 404; + cited, 74, 118 n338, 125, 129, 135, 192, 210, 244, 246 n661, 247, 253 + n677, 254 n681, n683, 262, 377 + + Savinière, quoted, 153 and n443 + + Savoie, Don Philippe, 143 + + Savona, 77 n240, 79 n246 + + Savonarola, quoted, 67 + + Saxony lace industry + Barbara Uttman's work, 260-262 + cheap lace of, 246 + degeneration of, 263 + Dresden lace, 262-263 + modern, 263 + numbers employed (sixteenth century), 261 + patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 + revenue from (sixteenth century), 261 + treillis d'Allemagne, mention, of, in French inventories, 262 and n701 + + Scandinavian Museum, Copenhagen, 275 + + Scandinavians, lace work of, 4 + + Scarpariola, Cencia, 59, 61 + + Scarron, quoted, 177 + + --------, Veuve, 163 + + Schartzemberger, Johan, 462 + + Schleswig lace industry, quality of lace, 275; + number of fabrics (1840), 277 + + ----------, North, lace of, 272, 273; + districts of lace industry, 276 n738 + + "Schole House for the Needle, A," 499 + + Schomberg, Col., quoted, 326 and n946 + + Schools, Lace + Devonshire, 414, 415 and n1167, 416 + Italian, 81 n248 + Spratton, 388, 390 + + Schoulthem, Mr. Hey, quoted, 133-134 and n380 + + Schwartzenburg, John, 267 + + Scotch servant on old lace, 368 n1090 + + Scotland + lace manufacture of, 422, 425 n1199, 428-434 + sumptuary laws in, 422 and n1195, 424 + + Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 418 n1175, 427 and n1202 + + _Scottish Advertiser_ (1769), quoted, 35 + + Sculptured lace + coloured marbles, in, 71 + Harefield church, in, 321 n927 + + Seaming lace, 107, 325 n941, 332 + + Sedan lace, 183 n539, 253, 254 + + Sedgewicke, Elizabeth, 310 + + Sedley, Sir Charles, 13 and n47 + + Séez black laces, 196 and n562 + + Séguin, quoted, 113 n325, 139 n393; cited, 254 + + Select Society of Edinburgh, The, 429, 430 and nn + + _Sempere Historia del Lujo_, quoted, 102 + + Senior, Hannah, 12 + + Sera, Dominique de, cited, 92; + Pattern Book of, 476 + + Sevenges, Madame de, 290 + + Sévigné, Madame de + bequest to, 183 n540 + quoted, 154 n448, 162 n477, 366 n1084 + + Seville lace, 101 + + Sewell, quoted, 294 n794 + + Seymour, Lady Jane, 294 + + Sforza family, documents of, cited, 46, 50 n168, 63, 74 n235 + + Shadwell, quoted, 343, 345 + + Shakespeare, laces mentioned by, 295, 303 and n831; + quoted, 309 n871 + + _Shakespeare Memorial, A_, quoted, 325 n941 + + Shandowes, Lady. _See_ Chandos + + Shawe, quoted, 404 + + Sherborne, lace industry of, 396, 397 + + Sheridan, quoted, 346 + + Shirts + adornments of, 15-16 + Irish, 307, 435 + Queen Elizabeth's present of, to her brother, 10 + Spanish omission of, 97 n279 + + Shoes, lace rosette-trimmed, 329 + + Shrewsbury, Countess of, 11 + + Siam, King of (1614), 12 + + Sibmacher, 266, 490 + + Sicily, lace manufacture of, 80-81 + + Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n579 + + Sidbury, lace school at, 414; + lace lessons at, 416 n1170 + + Sidford, lace lessons at, 4l6 n34 + + Sidmouth, lace school at, 416 and n1169 + + Sidney, Sir Philip, 304 + + Sidonian embroidery, 3 + + Siena lace, 68 + + Silk guipure. _See_ Guipure + + ---- lace + Almagro, at, 102 n297 + Chinese, 89 + Cretan, 86 + Ragusa, at (gimp), 84 + Watling, 422 + + Silver lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace) + England, importation to, prohibited by, Queen Anne, 349; + George II., 335 n993; + confiscation and burning of foreign, 359 + Hamburg, 264 + Holland, introduction into, 259 + India, exported to, 322 n928, 329 and n958 + Ireland, exportation to, prohibited, 439 + Large purchase of, by Lady Arabella Stuart, 325 + Lyons, at, 256 + Ragusa, at, 84 + Scotland, wearing prohibited in, 422 + Spanish, 100-102, 154, 211, 212 + Zurich, 271 + + ------ net-work, collar of, 82 + + ------ purles, prohibition of English made, 330 330 + + ------ thread, duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328 + + Silvestre, cited, 463 n1274, 464 + + Simiane, Madame de + English point belonging to, 118 and n335 + inventory of, quoted, 153 n444, 218 and n599 + + Sinclair, Sir John, quoted, 133-134 and n380, 428 + + --------, Miss Katherine, 419 n1176 + + _Sir Courtly Nice_, cited, 353 and n1052 + + Skelton, quoted, 251 n669 + + Skippin, quoted, 49 n165, cited, 72 + + Slammerkins, 356 and n1059 + + Slavonian peasants' work, 268 + + Sleeves, 341, 365 + + Sloper, Catherine, epitaph on, 13 + + Smith, Mother Mary Anne, 443 + + Smocks + adornments of, 15 + labourers' cut-work insertion on, 25 + + Smuggling of lace, account of, 357-362; + of point de Bruxelles, 117; + in 1621, 331; + in Charles II's time, 336; + Isle of Man a centre for, 372; + to Scotland, 427 + + ---------- of thread, 407 + + Smyrna, silk guipure of, 87 + + Smythe, Thomas, 425 + + Society of Anti-Gallicans. _See_ Anti-Gallican + + -------- of Polite Arts, 262 n702 + + Sol, José, 484 + + Soldiers + lace made by, 225 + rich laces of English, 345, 346 + + Sonderburg, vault of Schleswig-Holstein family at, 366 n1082 + + Sonnettes, 34 n104 + + Sophie de France, 168 + + ------, Grand Duchess, 268 + + Soragana, Marchesa di, 486 + + Sorbière, Mons. de, 70 + + Souche, Lady, 309 n870 + + South Kensington Museum, Cretan laces in, 86 + + Southey, quoted, 303 n830 + + Spacing lace, 325 n941 + + Spain + America, lace exported to, 102 + bone pins used in, 295 + conventual lace work of, 93 + earnings of lace-makers in, 102 + embroidery of, 8 n28, 10 and n32 + French fashions influenced by, 147 + gold and silver lace, use and manufactures of, 100-102; + imported to, 212 + grave clothes of grandees in, 366 and n1085 + guipures imported to, 36 + holidays in, 102 n302 + lace imported to, from-- + Albissola, 77 + Chantilly, 214 + Dieppe, 219 + Ghent, 133 + Isle de France, 209 + Le Puy, 245 and n657 + Lorraine, 251 + Marseilles, 101 + Paris, 36, 212 + Maestranza, the, uniforms of, 100 + mantilla, kinds of, 102-103 and n305; + mantillas exported to, 226 + manufacture of lace in, centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 + Moresse, dentelles de, 104 + numbers of lace-makers in, 99, 101, 102 n294, n297, 104 + point of. _See_ Point d'Espagne + shirts frequently unworn in (1686), 97 n279 + sumptuary laws of, 90, 97, 101 + two kinds of lace made in, 103 n305 + + Spangles, 335; + of bobbins, 391 n1127 + + Spanish-American colonies, Chantilly lace exported to, 214 + + -------- Indies, + Brabant lace exported to, 129 + guipures exported to, 36 + Le Puy lace, annual consumption of, 245 n657 + + Spelle werk, 32 n98 + + Spenser, quoted, 303 n830 + + Spider net, 448 + + ------ -work, 20 + + Spiral design, 7 + + Spratton, lace school at, 388-390 + + Staël, Madame de, 180 + + Stafford, Bishop, monument of, 405 and n1150 + + Stair, Lord, 99 n285 + + Starch, yellow, 307, 317 and n906, 435 + + Starching, introduction of, into England, 311; + tools used for fluting and, 311-312 + + Steadman, Anne, 440 + + Steenbeck, 274 + + Steinkirk lace, 167 and n491, 344 and n1021, 345, 364 + + Stephens, quoted, 302 n828 + + Stepney, Lady, 369 + + Sterne, cited, 172 + + Stisted, Mrs., cited, 474 and n1308, 487 + + Stock, lace cravat succeeded by, 345 + + Stockholm museums, lace in, 282 + + Stone, quoted, 140 + + Stoney Stratford, lace industry of, 375 n1105, 379 and n1117 + + Stothard, Mrs., quoted, 216 n594 + + Stowe, cited, 294 n793; + quoted, 310, 311 and n879, 312 + + Strafford, statuette of Earl of, 367 + + Strasburg, Archbishops of. _See_ Rohan family. + + Stratford-upon-Avon, embroidered bed linen at, 325 n941 + + Strauben, George, 271, 487 + + Strickland, Miss, quoted, 420 n1184 + + Striqueuse, work of, 122 + + Strutt, Jedediah, 448 n1239 + + Strype, quoted, 38, 297 and n813 + + Stuart, Arabella, 325 + + ------, Mary, _See_ Mary Stuart + + Stubbes, quoted, 16, 313 and n892 + + Stuora, 53 and n179 + + Sturbridge fair, 43 and n140 + + Stures family, 282 + + Suffolk, Duchess, 292 + + --------, Earl of, 319 and n917, n918 + + --------, lace industry of, 394 + + Sully, 142, 210 + + Sumptuary laws + Denmark, 274 and n733, n735 + England, 285, 286, 288, 289, 290 and n776, 291, 293, 306 and n855, 319 + France, 64, 141 and n404, n405, 144, 147 and n429, 148 and n431, 152, + 154 and n450, 158 and n460, 212, 243 + Genoa, 73 + Ireland (192 A.D.), 435, 436 and n1220 + Portugal, 105 + "Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43 + Scotland, 422 and n1195, 424 + Spain, 90, 97, 101 + Turkey, 87 + Venice, 48, 57, 79 n245 + Zurich, 270 + + Sweden + cut-work in, 25, 280 + grave-clothes, lace adorned, 366 + lace industry, + bobbin lace of, 280 + established at Wadstena, 278 + growth of, 279 + peasant lace work for home use, 281-282 + Spanish point and guipure in museums, 282 + sheets, laced, 280 + + Swift, quoted, 124, 339, 349 n1037, 352, 436 + + Swinburne, Thos. (1572), 301 n822 + + ---------- (1775), quoted, 101 + + ---------- (1786), quoted, 176 + + Switzerland, lace industry in, + French refugees, settlement of, 269 + mignonette made (1665), 35 + Neufchâtel. _See that title_ + origin of, 269 + pattern books, 271 + statistics of, 270 and n727 + Zurich sumptuary laws, 270-271 + + Sylvius, Balthazar, 469 + + Syon Monastery cope, 7 + + Syracuse, Count of, quoted, 369 + + Tabin, B., 476 + + Taglienti, pattern-book of, 50 n168, 51 n171, 52 n176, n178, 53 n181, 71 + n222, 82 n252, 460 + + Talavera de la Regna, lace made at, 101 + + Talbot, Gilbert, 304 + + Tallies, 78 and n154 + + Talma lace, 186 + + Talon, 158 n460 + + Tambour work, + Hamilton, 434 n1216 + Irish, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231 + oriental, 440, 441 + + Tape lace, 116, 414 n1165 + + Tapestry, Greek lace a substitute for, 85-86 + + Tarnete (trina), 46 + + _Tatler_, quoted, 296 n806 + + Tatting, Manilla grass, 89 n265 + + Tax-books, Genoese, cited, 72 n224 + + Taylor, John, quoted, 323 and n933, 329; + cited 500 + + Temple, Earl, 380 + + Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225, 73 n232; + cited, 76 n238 + + Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n113 + + Thelusson, Symphorien, 269 + + Theodoret, J., 469 + + Thierzac, lacis at, 248 + + Thomond, Earl of, 12 + + Thomsen, Prof., quoted, 272 + + Thomysi, Eleazaro, 481 + + Thread, importance of using fine (_see also under_ Lille), 393 and n1104, + 446 + + ------ lace + Cyprian, 82 + hand spinners of, protest by, 335 + importation of, prohibited by George III., 355 n1047 + + Thynne, quoted, 298 n816 + + Tickell, quoted, 169 n497 + + Tighe, Mr., cited, 440 n1228 + + Tiverton, first machine net factory at, 408 + + Toilé, 30 and n89 + + Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108 + + Toledo, Donna Teresa de, 103 + + Tombs. _See_ Grave-clothes + + Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n740, n742 + + Toquet, 340 + + Torchon + Milanese, 66 + prison-made at Perugia, 81 n248 + Saxony fabric, 263 + Sicilian, 81 + Spanish, 102 n297 + + Torello, 469 + + Torteroli, Sig. Don Tommaso, 79 n246 + + Tory, G., 476 + + Tottenham, Mrs. George, 446 + + Toul, "tulle" probably derived from, 250-251 and n669 + + Tournantes, 168 n496 + + Tournay, flax grown at, 118 n338 + + Tours, cope presented to Church of St. Martin at, 5 + + Towcester, lace industry at, 382 + + Travancore, pillow-laces of, 88 + + Treadwin, Mrs. + cited, 401 n1140, 407, 413 + Honiton lace industry, efforts for, 410, 411, 416 + + Trevelyan, Miss Audrey, 417 + + Trezola, 474 n1311 + + Trina, 46 and n150, n152 + + Trolle Bonde, Count, 282 + + ------ kant, 115-116 + + Trollopies, 356 and n1059 + + Trolly ground, 386 + + ------ lace, 371 n1095, 412-414 + + Trotman, Acting Consul, cited, 89 + + Trousse, Mlle. de la, cited, 40 n134 + + Troyaux, Mons., 124 + + Tucker, Mrs. Marwood, 407 n1154 + + Tulle (town), manufactures of, 250 + + Tulle + embroidered, 229 + German manufacture of, 250 + lace discarded in favour of, 187 + Marie Antoinette, at Court of, 180 + origin of name, 250 + predecessor of, 225 + + Turkey + oyah made in, 45, 87 + silk gimp specimens from, 85 + sumptuary laws in, 87 + tambour work in, 441 + + Turn, 401 n1140 + + Turner, Mrs., yellow starch invented by, 307, 317 and n906, 435 + + Turnhout, Mechlin lace made at, 125; + number of fabrics (1803), 131 + + Turin, fashion at Court of, 153 n445 + + Tuscan lacis, 52-53, 68 + + Tussaud, Madame, 143 n412 + + Twopenny, Mr. W., 286 n761 + + Tynan lace industry, 442, 443 + + Tyrol (Austrian) lace industry, 268 + + Udine, lace school at, 81 n248 + + Unbleached thread, pattern worked in, 338 + + Underclothing lace-trimmed, in Scotland, 426 + + United States. _See_ America + + Urbino, lace making in, 68 + + Urbino, Duchess, 471 + + Ursins, Madame des, 99, 172 + + Ustariz, quoted, 102 + + Uttman, Barbara, 260-262, 447 + + Val de Travers, rivalry with Mirecourt, 252, 270 + + Valcameos, 246 + + Valencia + gold and silver lace made at, 101 + saints' images decked in lace at, 100 + + Valenciennes Lace + compared with Binche, 135; + with Dutch, 260; + with Eu lace, 221; + with Isle of Man lace, 372 n1096; + with Lille, 237; + with Mechlin, 233; + with point de Dieppe, 220; + with Welsh lace, 371 n1094 + cost of (1788), 234 and n627 + fault of, 235 n629 + Honiton reproduction of, 416 + industry + centres of, 132; + after French Revolution, 231 n624; + expense and labour in making, 233; + cost of thread, 234 n627 + decline of, 231 + establishment of, date, 230 + French Revolution, effect of, 183 n539 + method of working pattern in, 31 + numbers employed (18th century), 230; + (1790 and 1851), 231; + at Ypres (1684 and 1850), 131 + period of highest merit, 234-235 + time required in producing, 233-234 + value of Belgium monopoly, 132 and n376 + wages and conditions of work, 233 + point a misnomer for, 32 + réseau of, 66 + varieties of + Alost (ground stitch), 133 + Bailleul, 241 + Bohemia, 268 + Bruges, 132-133 + Courtrai, width of, 131 n373; + compared with Ypres, 132; + ground stitch, 133 n377; + character of, 232 n624 + Dijon, 255 + fausses Valenciennes, manufactories of, 241, 387 + Ghent (ground stitch), 133 n377 + Le Puy, 230 and n619, 245 + vrai Valenciennes, 231 and n624 + Ypres, description of, 131, 231 n624; + value of, 131 n373; + ground and pattern, 131-133 + + Valentine de Milan, 139 n393 + + Valets, extravagance of, 173 and n514 + + Valguarnera, Prince, 71 + + Valladolid, lace-trimmed banner at, 100 + + Valois line, influence of, on French fashions, 139 + + _Valuables of Glenurquhy_, quoted, 325 and n938 + + Valvassore's heirs, pattern book of, 476 + + Van Even, Edward, cited, 110 n320 + + Van Eyck, Jacob, quoted, 111 and n322 + + Van Londonzeel, Assuerus, 111 + + Vandyke edges, origin of term, 448 n1241 + + Vatican, laces of, 70 + + Vavassore, Giovanni Andrea, 466, 467, 472 + + Vecellio + cited, 71 and n221 + Corona of, 8 n28, 29, 50 n167, 111, 484, 486 + + Veils, bridal, 78; + English, fourteenth century, 285 + + Vélay lace industry (_See also_ Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242; + 18th century, 244; + thread used, 245 + + Venezuela, lace of, 108 + + Venice + Billament lace of, 48 and n159 + blonde, formerly made in, 59 n195 + Brussels lace worn at, 57 and n192 + Colbert, ordinance of, trade affected by, 54 + collar made for Louis XIII. at, 194 + emigration of workers restricted, 159 n465 + English imports from, 43, 288, 307 n863, n864; + prohibited, 358 + fashion dolls at St. Mark's fair, 170 n501 + frauds of lace-makers in, 48, 67, 288 + gold work of, 288, 307 n863, n864 + Greek lace made at, 85 + Medici collars made at, 56 + numbers employed on lace-making in, 63 + Point of. _See_ Point de Venise + polychrome lace, introduction of, 62-63 + sumptuary laws in, 48, 57, 79 n245 + Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 + travellers' allusions to products of, 55, 57 + varieties of lace supplied by, 50-53, 57-58 + + Verbruggen, 129 n367 + + Verceilles, 249 + + Verghetti, 56 + + Vermicelli lace, 74 + + Verney Papers, quoted, 319 n916 + + Verona, St. John, life of, executed in needlework at, 8 n26 + + Veronese, Paul, _macramé_ in picture, by, 79 n248 + + Verulam, Lord, 101 and n289 + + Viarmes lace, 212 + + Victoria, Queen + Honiton lace flounces ordered by, 410 + Isle of Wight lace patronised by, 372 n1097 + State liveries of, 174 n516 + trousseau of, 392, 409 + + Victoria and Albert Museum + Alençon in, 193 n555 + Bock exhibits in, 23 n74 + Cyprian lace in, 82 + Danish embroideries in, 275 + Genoese lappet in, 78 and n244 + German specimens in, 264; + Nuremberg ruffs, 267 + Hungarian peasant lace in, 268 + Irish imitation Venetian point in, 443 n1233 + lacis borders in, 20-21 + Norwegian cut-work in, 280 n747 + pale of rose point in, 51 + Paraguayan drawn-work at, 108 + pattern-books in, 467 n1287, 468, 470, 477, 488 n1337, 490 n1344, 497 + n1361, 501 n1370, 502 n1371 + Slavonian peasants' work in, 268 + Suffolk laces in, 394 + Syon Monastery cope in, 7 + tape lace in, 116 + + Villemarqué, cited, 229 n616 + + Villiers, Dame Barbara, 328 + + --------, Sir Edward, 319 n918 + + --------, Sir George, 318 + + Villiers-le-Bel, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589 + + Vimoutier, 204 + + Vinciolo, Frederick + Katharine de Médicis the patroness of, 11,17 + pattern book of, 49, 136, 144, 477-482, 487, 494 + + Virginière, Blaise de, quoted, 140, 141 and n401 + + Vittoria, Sister Felice, 93 + + Volant, origin of name, 168 n496 + + Vologda lace, 283 + + Voltaire, quoted, 166 n490 + + Vorsterman, William, 180, 463 + + Vos, Martin de, engravings after, 106 and n268 + + Vrai réseau, bride succeeded by, 406 + + Vrillière, Mgr. de la, 162 n475 + + Waborne lace, 300 and n819 + + Wace, Robert, cited, 202 + + Wadstena lace industry, 278-280 + + Wages of lace-workers. _See_ Earnings + + Wakefield, quoted, 440 n1228 + + Waldgrave, Sir Edward, 293 + + Wales, lace-making in, 371 and n1094 + + ------, Princess of, 409 + + Walker, Charles, 441 and n1230, 442 + + Walpole, cited, 297 n808, 356 and n1060 + + Walsingham, 307 n860, 420 n1182 + + ----------, Lady Audrye, 64, 320 n925 + + Wareham, lace found in Scandinavian barrow near, 4 + + Warwick, Lord, 333 + + Warton, J., quoted, 121 and n349 + + Washing of ecclesiastical lace, 373 n1101 + + Waterloo, hospital for English wounded at, 124 + + Waterman, Mrs. Elizabeth, 395 + + Watling silk lace, 422 + + Watt, cited, 482 n1329 + + Weaving Book, 280 + + Webb, Mr., 51 + + Weber, cited, 280 n758 + + Weigel, Christoph, 501 + + ------, Joh. Christoph, 502 + + Weisse, C., cited, 259 n693, 264 n707 + + West Indies, Spanish lace sold in, 102 n294 + + Westcote, quoted, 400; + cited, 401 + + Westminster + procession of lace-makers to, 360 + St. Margaret's, lace washing from, 373 n1101 + + ------------, Dean of, forbids yellow starch, 317 + + ------------ Abbey + epitaph in cloisters of, 13 + lace on images in, 316 n901, 345 + + Westphalia + Jutland industry improved by workers from, 274 + thread, fineness of, 119 n339 + + Whisks, 334 + + Whitcomb, John, widow of, 17 + + White, Edward, 482 + + ------ Knight's sale, 497 + + Wieselgren, H., cited, 493 n1354 + + Wight, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097 + + Wigs, + cost of, 349 + falling bands put out of fashion by, 336 + + Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, 99 n283 + + Willemin, cited, 475 n1313 + + William III., period of, 341-346 + + -------- of Malmesbury, quoted, 6 + + -------- of Normandy, 6-7 + + -------- of Poictiers, quoted, 7 + + -------- the Silent, 260 + + Willingham, Geo., letter to, cited, 98 n282 + + Wilton, Lady, cited, 497 + + Wiltshire and Dorsetshire lace, 395-398 + + Winchester, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320 + + ----------, Lady Marquis of, 309 n870 + + Wire, gold and silver lace made from, 72 + + ---- ground, 386 + + Wiseman, Cardinal, lace alb used by, 92-93 + + Wolfe, I., 482 + + Wolsey, Cardinal, lace of, 292 + + Women, lace work of, compared with that of men, 263 + + Woodbury + Maltese lace imitation made at, 414 n1165 + men lace-makers at, 413 + + Woollen manufacture in England + lace manufacture next to, in 1698, 402 + loss to, from edict against Flanders lace 341, 342, 349 + + Worcester, Countess of, 313 + + Wotton, Sir Henry, 136 n385 + + Wraxall, cited, 105, 142; + quoted, 263 + + Wulff, Jens, 276 and n739 + + Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 294 + + Wyriot, Madame, 205 + + Yarranton, Andrew, quoted, 114-115 and n327; + cited 259 n696 + + Yemenis, M., cited, 488 n1339 + + Yokohama, lace school at, 417 + + Yorck lace, 138 n392 + + York, Cardinal, 421 + + Youghal Convent, lace-making at, 443, 444 + + Young, A., cited, 192 n552, 207, 223, 224, 244; + quoted, 234 n627, 239 + + Ypres Valenciennes. _See under_ Valenciennes + + Yriarte, Charles, cited, 159 n465 + + Zante, Greek lace made at, 85 + + Zedler, cited, 57 + + Zoppino, Nicolo, 461, 462 + + Zouch, Lord, cited, 136 n385 + + Zurich, sumptuary laws of, 270 and n728 + + + LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND 28, GREAT WINDMILL STREET. W. + + +Notes + + [1] Wilkinson's _Ancient Egyptians_, vol. iii., p. 134. (See + Illustration.) + + [2] Herodotus, ii. 182; iii. 47. + + [3] Ezekiel, who takes up the cry of lamentation for "Tyrus, situate at + the entry of the sea," a merchant of the people for many isles, + exclaims, "The merchants of Sheba, Asshur, and Chilmad were thy + merchants. These were thy merchants in all sorts of things, in blue + cloths and broidered works, and in chests of rich apparel." Another + part of the same chapter mentions galley sails of fine linen "with + broidered work from Egypt."--Ezekiel xxvii. + + [4] Exodus xxvi.; xxvii.; xxxiv. 2; Isaiah iii. 18; 1 Kings vii. 17. + + [5] Exodus xxxviii. 23. + + [6] Again, in the song of Deborah, the mother of Sisera says, "Have they + not divided the prey?... to Sisera a prey of divers colours of + needlework, of divers colours of needlework on both sides."--Judges + v. 30. + + [7] Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making. A. S. Cole (London, + 1881). + + [8] At Athens the maidens who took part in the procession of the + Panathenaea embroidered the veil or _peplos_ upon which the deeds of + the goddess were embroidered. The sacred _peplos_ borne on the mast + of a ship rolled on wheels in the Panathenaic festival "was destined + for the sacred wooden idol, Athene Polias, which stood on the + Erechtheus. This _peplos_ was a woven mantle renewed every five + years. On the ground, which is described as dark violet, and also as + saffron-coloured, was inwoven the battle of the gods and the + giants." (See page 47, _British Museum Catalogue to the Sculptures + of the Parthenon_.) + + [9] Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, viii. 74. "Colores diversos picturae intexere + Babylon maxime celebravit et nomen imposuit." + + [10] Maspero, _The Dawn of Civilisation in Egypt and Chaldaea_ (ed. Prof. + Sayce). + + [11] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_ (trans. A. S. Cole). + + [12] Lucan, _Pharsalia_, Book X. + + [13] The Romans denominated such embroideries _phrygionae_, and the + embroiderer _phrygio_. Golden embroideries were specified as + _auriphrygium_. This word is the root of the French _orfroi_ + (orfreys). + + [14] Mrs. Palliser quotes an extract from the author of _Letters from + Italy_, who, speaking of the cabinet at Portici, mentions an elegant + marble statue of Diana "dressed after the purple gowns worn by the + Roman ladies; the garment is edged with a lace exactly resembling + point; it is an inch and a half broad, and has been painted purple." + By an Englishwoman (Mrs. Millar) in the years 1770 and 1771 (London, + 1777). + + [15] Strutt. + + [16] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. + + [17] Mrs. Bury Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. + + [18] St. Giselle, Berthe's sister, founded many convents in Aquitaine and + Provence, and taught the nuns all manner of needlework (Lefébure, + _Embroidery and Lace_). + + [19] _Chronique Rimée_, by Philippe Mouskés. + + [20] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. + + [21] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. + + [22] It has been suggested that the embroidery was done by William's + granddaughter, the Empress Matilda, widow in 1125 of Henry V., + Emperor of Germany, and wife, by her second marriage, of Geoffrey, + Count of Anjou (Lefébure). + + [23] Mr. Fowke states that the tradition which would make the tapestry + the handiwork of Queen Matilda cannot be traced further back than + 1803, when the tapestry was sent to Paris for exhibition. + + [24] Matt. Par., _Hist. Angl._, p. 473, Edit. Paris, 1644. + + [25] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_. + + [26] At Verona an artist took twenty-six years to execute in needlework + the life of St. John, after the designs of Pollajuolo. + + [27] "Gaston, Duke of Orleans, established hot-houses and botanical + gardens, which he filled with rare exotics to supply the needle with + new forms and richer tints" (Lefébure). + + [28] We read, for instance, that Gabrielle de Bourbon, wife of Louis de + la Trémouille, "jamais n'estoit oyseuse, mais s'employoit une partie + de la journée en broderies et autres menus ouvrages appartenant à + telles dames, et y occupoit ses demoyselles dont avoit bonne + quantité, et de grosses, riches, et illustres maisons."--_Panegyric + de Loys de la Trèmoille par Jean Bouchet._ + + Again Vecellio dedicates his "Corona" to Signora Nanni, not only on + account of the pleasure she takes in works of the needle, but for + "il diletto che prende in farne essercitar le donne de casa sua, + ricetto delle più virtuose giovani che hoggidi vivono in questa + città." + + "It is usual here," writes a lady from Madrid in 1679, "for good + families to put their daughters to ladies, by whom they are employed + to embroider in gold and silver, or various colours, or in silk, + about the shift, neck, and hands." + + "I jor fist es chambre son pere, + Une estole et i amict pere, + De soie et d'or molt soutilment, + Si i fait ententivement + Mainte croisette et mainte estoile, + Et dist ceste chancon à toile." + --_Roman de la Violette._ + + "One day, seated in her father's room, she was skilfully working a + stole and amict in silk and gold, and she was making in it, with + great care, many a little cross and many a little star, singing all + the while this _chanson à toile_." + + [30] In one of Edward I. we find a charge of eight shillings for silk + bought for the embroidery work of Margaret, the King's daughter, and + another for four ounces of silk, two hundred ounces of gold thread, + a spindle, etc.--_Liber de Garderoba, 23 Edw. I._, Public Record + Office. + + In one of Edward III. the sum of £2 7s. 2d. is expended in the + purchase of gold thread, silk, etc., for his second daughter + Joanna.--_Liber Garderobae, 12-16 Edw. III._, Public Record Office. + + Elizabeth of York worked much at her needle. In the account of her + household, preserved in the Public Record Office, every page of + which is signed by Queen Elizabeth herself, we find-- + + "To Evan Petreson joiner, for the stuff and making of 4 working + stools for the Queen; price of the stool 16 pence--5s. 4d. + + "To Thomas Fissch, for an elne of linen cloth for a samplar for the + queen, 8d." + + In the Inventory 4 Edward VI., 1552 (Harl. MSS. No. 1419), are + entries of-- + + "Item, XII. samplars" (p. 419). + + "Item, one samplar of Normandie canvas, wrought with green and black + silk" (p. 524). + + "A book of parchment containing diverses patternes" (p. 474), + probably purchases for his sisters. + + [31] See, for instance, the interesting account of the Countess of + Oxford, given by Miss Strickland in her _Life of Queen Elizabeth of + York_. + + [32] These are alluded to in the dialogue between Industria and Ignavia, + as given in Sibmacher's "Modelbuch," 1601 (French translation): "La + vieille dame raconte l'histoire des concours de travail à l'aiguille + chez les anciens Espagnols; comme Isabelle, femme de Ferdinand, a + hautement estimé les travaux de l'aiguille." + + The "Spanish stitch," so often mentioned, was brought in by + Katharine, on her marriage with Prince Arthur, in 1501. We have + constantly in her wardrobe accounts sheets and pillow-beres, + "wrought with Spanish work of black silk at the edge." + + In the Inventory of Lord Monteagle, 1523 (Public Record Office,) are + "eight partlets, three garnished with gold, the rest with Spanish + work." + + In 1556, among the New Year's gifts presented to Queen Mary Tudor, + most of the smocks are "wrought with black silk, Spanish fashion." + + In the Great Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth, 3 & 4, Public + Record Office, we have "sixteen yards of Spanish work for ruffs." + + "Twelve tooth cloths, with the Spanish stitch, edged with gold and + silver bone lace."--_Ibid._ Eliz. 5 & 6. + + The Spanish stitch appears in France with Henry II., 1557. "Pour la + façon d'ung gaban avec ung grant collet chamarrez à l'Espaignolle de + passement blanc," etc.--_Comptes de l'Argentier du Roy._ Archives + Nat. K. K. 106. + + [33] Taylor, the Water Poet, _Katharine of Aragon_. + + [34] The industry of Henry's last queen was as great as that of his + first. Specimens still exist at Sizergh Castle, Westmoreland, of + Katharine Parr's needlework--a counterpane and a toilet cover. An + astrologer, who cast her nativity, foretold she would be a queen; so + when a child, on her mother requiring her to work, she would + exclaim, "My hands are ordained to touch crowns and sceptres, not + needles and spindles." + + [35] _Dames Illustres._ + + [36] The "Reine des Marguerites," the learned sister of Francis I., was + not less accomplished with her needle, and entries for working + materials appear in her accounts up to the year of her death, 1549. + + "Trois marcs d'or et d'argent fournis par Jehan Danes, pour servir + aux ouvraiges de la dicte dame."--_Livre de dépenses de Marguerite + d'Angoulême_, par le Comte de la Ferrière-Percy. Paris, 1862. + + "Elle addonoit son courage + A faire maint bel ouvrage + Dessus la toile, et encor + A joindre la soye et l'or. + Vous d'un pareil exercise + Mariez par artifice + Dessus la toile en maint trait + L'or et la soie en pourtrait." + + --_Ode à la Royne de Navarre_, liv. ii., od. vii. + + [38] 1380. "Oeuvre de nonnain."--_Inventaire de Charles V._ + + [39] "My grandmother, who had other lace, called this" (some needlepoint) + "nun's work."--_Extract from a letter from the Isle of Man_, 1862. + + "A butcher's wife showed Miss O---- a piece of Alençon point, which + she called 'nun's work.'"--_Extract from a letter from Scotland_, + 1863. + + 1698, May. In the _London Gazette_, in the advertisement of a sale + by auction, among other "rich goods," we find "nun's work," but the + term here probably applies to netting, for in the _Protestant Post + Boy_ of March 15th, 1692, is advertised as lost "A nun's work purse + wrought with gold thread." + + 1763. In the _Edinburgh Advertiser_ appears, "Imported from the + Grand Canaries, into Scotland, nun's work." + + [40] As, for instance, "the imbrothering" of the monks of the monastery + of Wolstrope, in Lincolnshire. + + [41] _Livre de Lingerie._ Dom. de Sera, 1581. "Donne, donzelle, con gli + huomini."--Taglienti, 1530. Patterns which "les Seigneurs, Dames, + et Damoiselles ont eu pour agréables."--Vinciolo, 1587. + + [42] Jehan Mayol, carme de Lyon; Fra Hieronimo, dell' Ordine dei Servi; + Père Dominique, religieux carme, and others. + + [43] One in the Bibliothèque Impériale is from the "Monasterio St. + Germani à Pratis." + + [44] He died in 1595. _Lives of the Earl and Countess of Arundel_, from + the original MS. by the Duke of Norfolk. London, 1857. + + [45] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Domestic. Charles I. Vol. clxix. + 12. + + [46] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Colonial. No. 789. + + [47] See his epigram, "The Royal Knotter," about the queen, + + "Who, when she rides in coach abroad + Is always knotting threads." + + [48] Translated from the _Libellus de Admirandis beati Cuthberti + Miraculis_ of Reginald, monk of Durham, by Rev. J. Rain. Durham, + 1855. + + [49] _Chronicle of John Hardyng_, circ. 1470. + + [50] Temp. Rich. II. In their garments "so much pouncing of chesell to + make holes, so much dragging (zigzagging) of sheers," etc.--_Good + Parson_, Chaucer. + + [51] Percy, _Reliques of Ancient Poetry_, vol. iii. + + [52] _Anatomie of Abuses_, by Philip Stubbes, 1583. + + [53] _The Shyp of Folys of the Worlde_, translated out of Latin by Alex. + Barclay, 1508. + + [54] The inventories of all nations abound in mention of these costly + articles. The "smocks" of Katharine of Aragon "for to lay in," were + wrought about the collar with gold and silk. Lord Monteagle, 1523, + had "two fine smocks of cambric wrought with gold." (Inv. P. R. O.) + Among the New Year's Gifts offered to Queen Mary Tudor by the + Duchess of Somerset (1556), we find a smock wrought over with silk, + and collar and ruffles of damask, gold purl, and silver. Again, in + the household expenses of Marguerite de France, 1545, we find a + charge of "4 livres 12 sols, pour une garniture de chemise ouvré de + soye cramoisie pour madicte dame."--(Bib. Imp. MSS. Fonds François, + 10,394.) About the same date (G. W. A. Eliz. 1 & 2, 1558-59) appear + charges for lengthening one smocke of drawne work, 20s. Six white + smockes edged with white needlework lace, 10s. To overcasting and + edging 4 smockes of drawn work with ruffs, wristbands, and collars, + three of them with black work, and three of them with red, etc. At + the funeral of Henry II. of France, 1559, the effigy was described + as attired in "une chemise de toile de Hollande, bordée au col et + aux manches d'ouvraige fort excellent."--Godefroy, _Le Cérémonial de + France_, 1610. + + [55] See FRANCE. + + [56] The pillow-bere has always been an object of luxury, a custom not + yet extinct in France, where the "taies d'oreiller, brodées aux + armes," and trimmed with a rich point, form an important feature in + a modern trousseau. In the inventory of Margaret of Austria, the + gentle governess of the Low Countries, are noted-- + + "Quatre toyes d'oraillers ouvrées d'or et de soye cramoysie et de + verde. + + "Autres quatres toyes d'oraillers faites et ouvrées d'or et de soye + bleu à losanges qui ont estées données à Madame par dom Diego de + Cabrera."--_Corr. de l'Empereur Maximilien I. et de Marguerite + d'Autriche_, par M. Leglay. Paris, 1839. + + Edward VI. has (Harl. MSS. 1419) "18 pillow-beres of hollande with + brode seams of silk of sundry coloured needlework." And again, "One + pillow-bere of fine hollande wrought with a brode seam of Venice + gold and silver, and silk nedlework." + + And Lady Zouche presents Queen Elizabeth, as a New Year's gift, with + "One pair of pillow-beares of Holland work, wrought with black silk + drawne work."--Nichol's _Royal Progresses_. + + [57] _Goderonné_--_goudronné_, incorrectly derived from pitch + (_goudron_), has no relation to stiffness or starch, but is used to + designate the fluted pattern so much in vogue in the sixteenth + century--the "gadrooned" edge of silversmiths. + + 1588. Il avait une fraise empesée et godronnée à gros godrons, au + bout de laquelle il y avoit de belle et grande dentelle, les + manchettes estoient goudronnées de mesme. + + [58] They are introduced into the Title page of this work. + + [59] See APPENDIX. + + [60] "Quintain, quintin, French lawne." Randle Cotgrave. _Dictionarie of + the French and English tongues._ 1611. + + "26 virges de Kanting pro sudariis pro ille 47/8."--_G. W. A. + Charles II._, 1683-4. + + [61] Lacis, espèce d'ouvrage de fil ou de soie fait en forme de filet ou + de réseuil dont les brins étaient entre-lacez les uns dans les + autres.--_Dict. d'Ant. Furetière_, 1684. + + [62] Béle Prerie contenant differentes sortes de lettres, etc., pour + appliquer sur le réseuil ou lassis. Paris, 1601. See APPENDIX. + + [63] So, in the Epistle to the Reader, in a Pattern-book for Cut-works + (London, J. Wolfe & Edward White, 1591), the author writes of his + designs:-- + + "All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them + in order the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth + forward; whereby with more ease they may be sewed and wrought in + cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey + of the worke. And more, who desyreth to bring the work into a lesser + forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge + them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, + pouncing or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to + be understood that these squares serve not only for cut-workes, but + alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching."--(See APPENDIX, + No. 72). + + [64] _Pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour + Matthias Mignerak_, etc. Paris, 1605. See APPENDIX. + + [65] The inventories of Charles de Bourbon, ob. 1613, with that of his + wife, the Countess of Soissons, made after her death, 1644 (Bib. + Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426), alone prove how much this _réseuil_ was in + vogue for furniture during the seventeenth century. + + "Item un pavilion de thoille de lin à bende de reseuil blang et noir + faict par carel prisé, vi. l. t. (livres tournois). + + "Item quatre pentes de ciel de cotton blanc à carreaux. + + "Item trois pentes de ciel de thoille de lin à carreaux et raiseuil + recouvert avec le dossier pareil estoffe, et petit carreau à point + couppé garny de leur frange, le fonds du ciel de thoille de lin, + trois custodes et une bonne grace et un drap pareille thoille de lin + à bandes de reseuil recouvert ... prisé xviii. l. t."--_Inv. de + Charles de Bourbon._ + + "Item une autre tapisserie de rezeuil de thoile blanche en huit + pièces contenant ensemble vingt aulnes on environ sur deux aulnes + trois quarts de haute. + + "Item une autre tenture de tapisserie de rézeau tout de leine (lin) + appliquée sur de la toille blanche en sept pièces contenant dix-huit + aulnes de cours sur trois aulnes de haute. + + "Item trois pantes, fonds de dossier, les deux fourreaux de piliers, + la converture de parade, le tout en point couppé et toillé. + + "Item, une garniture de lict blanc, faict par carré d'ouvrage de + poinct couppé, le tout garny avec la couverte de parade, prisé la + somme de soixante livres tournois."--_Inv. de la Comtesse de + Soissons._ + + [66] Dated 20 Feb., 1587. Now in the Record Office, Edinburgh. + + [67] 1781. "Dix-huit Pales de differentes grandeurs, tous de toile garnis + tant de petite dentelle que de filet brodé."--_Inv. de l'Eglise de + S. Gervais._ Arch. Nat. L.L. 654. + + [68] _Point and Pillow Lace_, by A. M. S. (London, 1899). + + [69] In the Record Office, Edinburgh. + + [70] "Mache, the Masches (meshes) or holes of a net between the thread + and thread" (Cotgrave). + + [71] _Comptes de la Reine de Navarre_, 1577. Arch. Nat. K.K. 162. + + [72] _Inventory of Catherine de Médicis_, Bonaffé. + + [73] Randle Holme, in _The School Mistris Terms of Art for all her Ways + of Sewing_, has "A Samcloth, vulgarly, a Samplar." + + [74] In the Bock collection, part of which has since been bought for the + Victoria and Albert Museum, are specimens of "rézeuil d'or," or + network with patterns worked in with gold thread and coloured silks. + Such were the richly-wrought "serviettes sur filez d'or" of Margaret + of Austria. + + "Autre servyette de Cabes (Cadiz) ouvrée d'or, d'argent sur fillez + et bordée d'or et de gris. + + "Autre serviette à Cabes de soye grise et verde à ouvrage de fillez + bordée d'une tresse de verd et gris."--Inventory already quoted. + + [75] "Le Gan," de Jean Godard, Parisien, 1588. + + [76] Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery + in the South Kensington Museum (p. 5). + + [77] Lace. French, _dentelle_; German, _Spitzen_; Italian, _merletto_, + _trina_; Genoa, _pizzo_; Spanish, _encaje_; Dutch, _kanten_. + + [78] Statute 3 Edw. IV. c. iii. + + [79] "Passement, a lace or lacing."--_Cotgrave_. + + [80] Not in those of Rob. Estienne, 1549; Frère de l'Aval, 1549; or + Nicot, 1606. Cotgrave has, "Dentelle, small edging (and indented), + bone-lace, or needlework." In Dict. de l'Académie, 1694, we find, + "Dentelle, sorte de passement à jour et à mailles tres fines ainsi + nommé parceque les premières qu'on fit etoient dentelées." + + [81] _Comptes de l'Argentier du Roi_, 1557.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 106. + "Passement de fine soie noire dentelle d'un costé." "Passement + blanc," "grise," also occur. + + [82] _Argenterie de la Reine_, 1556.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 118. + + [83] _Dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, soeur du + Roi._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394, fol. 62. + + [84] "Plus de delivré une pacque de petite dentelle qui est estez cousu + ensemble pour mettre sur les coutures des rideaux des ditz litz + contenant 80 aunes."--Rec. Off., Edin. This custom of trimming the + seams of bed-curtains with a lace indented on both sides was common + throughout Europe. In the Chartley Inv. of Mary Stuart, 1586, one of + the Vasquines (jackets) is described, "Autre de satin noir + descouppée a descouppemie dentelés." + + [85] 1577. "Pour deux aulnes de passement d'argent a hautte dantelle pour + mettre à ung renvers, au pris de soixante solz l'aulne. + + "Pour une aulne de dentelle pour faire deux cornettes pour servir à + la dicte dame, quatre livres."--_Cptes. de la Reine de Navarre._ + Arch. Nat. K. K. 162. + + [86] See APPENDIX. + + [87] "Petits et grands passements; id. à l'esguille; id. faict au + mestier; id. de Flandres à poinctes; id. orangé à jour; id. de + Flandres satiné;" with "reseuil, dantelles, grandes et petites, or, + argent," etc.--_Inv. de Madame, soeur du Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234. + + So late as 1645, in the inventory of the church of St. Médard at + Paris (Arch de l'Emp. L. L. 858), the word is used. We find, "Quatre + tours de chaire de thoille baptiste, ung beau surplis pour le + predicateur, six autres, cinq corporaulx," all "à grand passement." + Also, "deux petits corporaulx à petit passement," and "trois tours + de chaire garnyz de grand passement à dentelle." + + [88] _Inv. apres le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de La Motte._--Bib. Nat. + MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. + + [89] The French terms are more comprehensive:-- + + Champ, fond travaillé à jour. + + Toilé, fleurs entièrement remplies, formant un tissu sans jour. + + Grillé, grillage, plein. Also flowers--but distinguished from toilé + by having little square spaces between the thread (_grillé_, + grating), the work not being so compact. + + "On appelle couleuvre, une blond dont le toilé continue serpente + entre deux rangs de grillage."--_Roland de la Platière_ (the + Girondin). Art. Dentelle, _Encyclopédie Méthodique_. Paris, 1780. + + [90] _Storehouse of Armory and Blason._ 1688. + + [91] "Brides--petits tissus de fil qui servent à joindre les fleurs les + unes avec les autres dans l'espèce de dentelle qu'on appelle Point + de France, de Venise, de Malines."--_Dict de l'Académie._ + + [92] "Une robe et tablier, garnis d'une dentelle d'Angleterre à + picot."--_Inv. de decès de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. X. + 10,064. + + [93] "Une chemisette de toile d'hollande garnye de point de + Paris."--_Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, veuve de + François de Simiane._ 1681. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. + + [94] "Cette dernière sorte de point se fait aux fuseaux."--_Dict. du P. + Richelet._ Lyon. 1759. + + [95] _Dict. d'Ant. Furetière._ Augmenté par M. Basnage. La Haye, 1727. + + [96] 1656. + + [97] 1651. "Huit aulnes de toile commune garnies de neige."--_Inv. des + emubles de la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jésus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. + MSS. F. Fr. 8621. + + "Neuf autres petites nappes; les deux premières de toile unie; la + troisième à dentelle quallifié de neige."--_Ibid._ + + [98] French, _dentelle à fuseaux_; Italian, _merli a piombini_; Dutch, + _gespeldewerkte kant_; Old Flemish, _spelle werk_. + + [99] French, _carreau_, _cousin_, _oreiller_; Italian, _tombolo_; Venice, + _ballon_; Spanish, _mundillo_. + + [100] See Chapter XXIV. + + [101] The number of bobbins is generally equal to 50 to each square inch. + If the lace be one inch wide, it will have 625 meshes in each square + inch, or 22,500 in a yard. The work, therefore, goes on very slowly, + though generally performed with the greatest dexterity. + + [102] At Gisors, Saint-Denis, Montmorency, and Villiers-le-Bel.--Savary, + _Grand Dict. du Commerce_, 1720. + + Cotgrave gives, "Bisette, a plate (of gold, silver, or copper) + wherewith some kinds of stuffes are stripped." Oudin, "Feuille ou + paillette d'or ou d'argent." In these significations it frequently + occurs. We find with numerous others: + + "1545. 55 sols pour une once bizette d'argent pour mectre à des + colletz." + + "Six aulnes bizette de soie noire pour mettre sur une robbe, lv. + s.," in the Accounts of Madame Marguerite de France. (Bib. Nat.) + + "1557. Bizette de soye incarnatte et jaulne pour chamarrer ung + pourpoint de satin rouge" of Henry II.--_Cptes. de l'Argentier du + Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 106. + + "1579. Petite bizette d'or fin dentellez des deux costez pour servir + à desmanches de satin cramoisy" of Catherine de + Médicis.--_Trésorerie de la royne mère du roy._ Arch. Nat. K. K. + 115. + + In the Chartley Inv. 1586, of Mary Stuart, is mentioned, "Un plotton + de bisette noire." + + [103] _Dict. de l'Académie._ + + [104] Campane, from sonnette, clochette, même grêlot. "Les sonnettes dont + on charge les habits pour ornement. Les festons qu'on met aux + étoffes et aux dentelles."--_Oudin._ + + [105] Public Record Office. + + [106] In the last century it was much the fashion to trim the scalloped + edges of a broader lace with a narrower, which was called to + "campaner." + + 1720. "Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle + d'Angleterre à raiseau, garni autour d'une campane à dents."--_Inv. + de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ + + 1741. "Une paire de manches à trois rangs de Malines à raizeau + campanée."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle Marie Anne de Bourbon de + Clermont._ Arch. Nat. X. 11,071. (Daughter of Mademoiselle de Nantes + and Louis Duke de Bourbon.) + + "Une coëffure de Malines à raizeau à deux pièces campanée."--_Ibid._ + + In the lace bills of Madame du Barry, preserved in the Bib. Nat., + are various entries of Angleterre et point à l'aiguille, "campanée + des deux côtés" for ruffles, camisoles, etc. + + [107] 1759. "Huit palatines tant points que mignonettes."--_Inv. de decès + de Louise Henriette de Bourbon-Conty, Princesse du Sang, Duchesse de + Orléans._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,077. + + "Trente-vingt paires de manchettes, quatre coëffures, le tout tant + de differents points qu'Angleterre, mignonettes que + tulles."--_Ibid._ + + [108] 1758. "Une paire de manchettes à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur + entoilage."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle Louise Anne de Bourbon Condé de + Charollais_ (sister of Mademoiselle de Clermont). Arch. Nat. X. + 10,076. + + 1761. "Fichus garnis à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur + entoilage."--_Inv. de Charlotte Aglaë d'Orléans, Princesse du Sang, + Duchesse de Modène_ (daughter of the Regent). + + 1789. Ruffles of blonde de fil appear also in the _Inv. de decès de + Monseigneur le Duc de Duras_. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440. + + [109] Mostly at Bayeux. + + [110] "On employe aussi pour les coëffures de la mignonette, et on a + tellement perfectionné cette dentelle, que estant peu de chose dans + son commencement est devenue de consequence et même très chère, + j'entends, la plus fine qu'on fait sur de beaux patrons."--_Le + Mercure Galant_, 1699. + + [111] "Guiper. Tordre les fils pendans d'une frange par le moyen de + l'instrument qu'on nomme guipoir, fer crochu d'un côté, et chargé de + l'autre d'un petit morceau de plomb pour lui donner du + poids."--Savary. + + [112] "Guipure. A grosse black thread covered or whipped about with + silk."--Cotgrave. + + "Guipure. Manière de dentelle de soie où il y a des figures de rose + ou d'autres fleurs, et qui sert à parer les jupes des dames.... Sa + jupe est pleine de guipure."--_Dict. du P. Richelet._ 1759. + + [113] Roland. We cannot help thinking this a mistake. In the statutes of + the Passementiers, we find mention of buttons "à têtes de mort," or + would it rather be "tête de moire," from the black moire hoods + (têtes) worn by the Italian women, which were often edged with a + narrow guipure? + + [114] Les lieux en France où il se fait le plus de guipures, sont + Saint-Denis-en-France, Villiers-le-Bel, Ecouën, Arcelles, + Saint-Brice, Groslait, Montmorency, Tremblay, Villepinte, etc. + + [115] The sale of Guipures belonged to the master mercers, the workmanship + to the passementiers boutonniers. We find in the _Livre Commode ou + les Adresses de la Ville de Paris_ for 1692, that "Guipures et + galons de soye se vendent sur le Petit Pont et rue aux Febvres, où + l'on vend aussi des galons de livrées." + + [116] Godefroy. _Le Cérémonial de France_, 1610. _Sacre du Roy Henry + II._, 1547. + + [117] In 1549. _Ibid._ + + [118] _Traité des Marques Nationales_, dar M. Beneton de Morange de + Peyrins. Paris, 1739. + + [119] In the Record Office, Edinburgh. + + [120] Une robe de velours vert couverte de Broderies, gimpeures, et + cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même. + + Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent. + + Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure + d'or. + + Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc. + + Robe de weloux noyr semée geynpeurs d'or. + + [121] _Dictionnaire de l'Académie._ + + [122] 1536-44. Sir Fred. Madden. + + 2 payr of sleeves whereof one of gold w^h p'chemene lace, etc. + + 2 prs. of sleves w^h pchmyn lase, 8/6. + + [123] _Ecclesiastical Memoirs_, iii. 2, 167. + + [124] State Papers, vol. 82, P. R. O. + + [125] Surtees' Society, Durham, "Wills and Inventories." + + [126] 1572. Thynne, in his _Debate between Pride and Lowliness_, describes + a coat "layd upon with parchment lace withoute." + + [127] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751. + + [128] Roll. 1607. P. R. O. + + [129] _Ibid._ 1626. 11 nightcaps of coloured satin, laid on thick, with + gold and silver parchment lace, 41. 9. 9. + + [130] Roll. 1630. + + [131] "Eidem pro novemdecem vir[=g] et di[=m] aureæ et argenteæ + pergame[=n] laciniæ pondent sexdecim un[=c] 2/[dram] 1/[scruple] + venet. ... pro consua[=t] ad ornan[=d] duas sedes utroque latere + thronæ in domo Parliament."--_Gt. Ward. Acc._ Car. II. xxx. and + xxxi. = 1678-9. + + In 1672-73 is an entry for "2 virgis teniæ pergame[=n]." + + [132] Surtees' "Inventories." + + [133] Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621. + + [134] _In the Recueil de pièces les plus agréables de ce temps, composées + par divers autheurs._ Paris, chez Charles Sercy, MDCLXI. + + The poem is dedicated to Mademoiselle de la Trousse, cousin of + Madame de Sévigné, and was probably written by one of her coterie. + + [135] The Cravates or Croates soldiers had a band of stuff round their + throats to support an amulet they wore as a charm to protect them + from sabre-cuts. What began in superstition ended in fashion. + + [136] These were, in France, Guibray, Beaucaire, and Bordeaux; in Germany, + Frankfort; in Italy, Novi. + + [137] All articles of luxury were to be met with at the provincial fairs. + When, in 1671, Catherine of Braganza, the Duchess of Richmond, and + the Duke of Buckingham, visited Saffron Walden fair, the Queen asked + for a pair of yellow stockings, and Sir Bernard Gascoyne, for a pair + of gloves stitched with blue. + + [138] 10 Hen. III., Devon's _Issues of the Exchequer_. + + [139] "No lace-woman," says Ben Jonson, "that brings French masks and + cut-works." That lace was sold by pedlars in the time of Henry + VIII., we find from a play, "The Four P's," written in 1544, by John + Heywood. Among the contents of a pedlar's box are given "lasses + knotted," "laces round and flat for women's heads," "sleeve laces," + etc. + + On opening the box of the murdered pedlar (_Fool of Quality_, 1766), + "they found therein silk, linen, laces," etc. + + [140] Defoe describes Sturbridge fair as the greatest of all Europe. + "Nor," says he, "are the fairs of Leipsig in Saxony, the Mart at + Frankfort-on-the-Maine, or the fair of Nuremburg or Augsburg, any + way comparable to this fair of Sturbridge." + + In 1423, the citizens of London and the suburbs being accused of + sending works of "embroidery of gold, or silver, of Cipre, or of + gold of Luk, togedre with Spanish Laton of insuffisant stuff to the + fayres of Sturesbrugg, Ely, Oxenford, and Salisbury"--in fact, of + palming off inferior goods for country use--"all such are + forfeited."--_Rot. Parl._, 2 Hen. VI., nu. 49. + + [141] "Lingua, or the Combat of the Tongue." A Comedy. 1607. + + [142] This system of colporteurs dates from the early Greeks. They are + termed both in Greek and Hebrew, "des voyageurs." + + [143] "She came to the house under the pretence of offering some lace, + holland, and fine tea, remarkably cheap."--_Female Spectator._ 1757. + + [144] The centres of the lace manufacture before 1665 were:-- + + BELGIUM Brussels, Mechlin, Antwerp, Liége, Louvain, Binche, + Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, Courtray, etc. + + FRANCE (Spread over more than ten Provinces)-- + Artois Arras (Pas-de-Calais). + French Flanders Lille, Valenciennes, Bailleul (Nord). + Normandy Dieppe, Le Hâvre (Seine-Inférieure). + Ile de France Paris and its environs. + Auvergne Aurillac (Cantal). + Velay Le Puy (Haute-Loire). + Lorraine Mirecourt (Vosges). + Burgundy Dijon (Côte-d'or). + Champagne Charleville, Sedan (Ardennes). + Lyonnais Lyon (Rhône). + Poitou Loudun (Vienne). + Languedoc Muret (Haute-Garonne). + + ITALY Genoa, Venice, Milan, Ragusa, etc. + SPAIN La Mancha, and in Catalonia especially. + GERMANY Saxony, Bohemia, Hungary, Denmark, and Principality of + Gotha. + ENGLAND Counties of Bedford, Bucks, Dorset, and Devon. + + [145] _Industrial Arts of the Nineteenth Century_, Digby Wyatt. + + [146] Francesco Nardi. _Sull' Origine dell' Arte del Ricamo._ Padova, + 1839. + + [147] _Ricamare. Recamar._ + + [148] The traditions of the Low Countries also point to an Eastern origin, + assigning the introduction of lace-making to the Crusaders, on their + return from the Holy Land. + + [149] _Origine ed Uso delle Trine a filo di refe_ (thread), 1864. + Privately printed. + + [150] 1469.--Io, Battista de Nicollo d'Andrea da Ferrara, debio avere per + mia manifatura et reve per cuxere et candelle per inzirare.... It. + per desgramitare e refilare e inzirare e ripezare e reapicare le + gramite a camixi quatordece per li signori calonexi, et per li, + mansonarij le qual gramite staxea malissimamente, p. che alcune + persone le a guaste, Lire 1 10. It. per reve et p. candelle, L. 0 5. + + 1469.--I, Baptist de Nicollo of Andrea da Ferrara, having owing to + me for my making, and thread to sew, and candles to wax.... Item, + for untrimming and re-weaving and waxing and refixing and rejoining + the trimmings of fourteen albs for the canons and attendants of the + church, the which trimmings were in a very bad state, because some + persons had spoiled them, L. 1 10. It. for thread and wax, L. 0 5. + + These trimmings (gramite), Cav. Merli thinks, were probably "trine." + + "At Chicago was exhibited the first kind of net used in Italy as + lace on garments. It is made of a very fine linen or silk mesh, + stiffened with wax and embroidered in silk thread. It was in use + during the fourteenth century, and part of the fifteenth" (_Guide to + New and Old Lace in Italy_, C. di Brazza, 1893). This is probably + the gramite, or trimmings of the albs, mentioned in the account book + formerly belonging to the Cathedral of Ferrara, and now preserved in + the Municipal Archives of that city. + + [151] See MILAN. + + [152] _Trina_, like our word lace, is used in a general sense for braid or + passement. Florio, in his Dictionary (_A Worlde of Words_, John + Florio, London, 1598), gives _Trine_--cuts, snips, pincke worke on + garments; and _Trinci_--gardings, fringings, lacings, etc., or other + ornaments of garments. + + _Merlo_, _merletto_, are the more modern terms for lace. We find the + first as early as the poet Firenzuola (see FLORENCE). It does not + occur in any pattern book of an older date than the "Fiori da + Ricami" of Pasini, and the two works of Francesco de' Franceschi, + all printed in 1591. + + [153] The laces, both white and gold, depicted in the celebrated picture + of the Visit of the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, by Lavinia Fontana, + now in the Lambeccari Gallery, executed in the sixteenth century, + prove that white lace was in general use in the Italian Courts at + that epoch. + + [154] At present, if you show an Italian a piece of old lace, he will + exclaim, "Opera di monache; roba di chiesa." + + [155] Statute 2, Henry VI., 1423. The first great treaty between the + Venetians and Henry VII. was in 1507. + + [156] _Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York_, 1502. P. R. O. Also + published by Sir H. Nicolas. + + [157] Inv. Henry VIII. + + [158] Gremio, when suing for Bianca, enumerates among his wealth in ivory + coffers stuffed, "Turkey cushions bossed with pearl; valance of + Venice gold in needlework."--_Taming of the Shrew._ + + [159] "One jerkyn of cloth of silver with long cuts down righte, bound + with a billament lace of Venice silver and black silk."--_Robes of + the late King_ (Edward VI.). + + [160] "A smock of cambrik wrought about the collar and sleeves with black + silke; the ruffe wrought with Venice gold and edged with a small + bone lace of Venice gold."--_Christmas Presents to the Queen_, by + Sir G. Carew. "7 ounces of Venice 'laquei bone' of gold and black + silk; lace ruff edged with Venice gold lace," etc. _G. W. A. Eliz., + passim_, P. R. O. + + [161] 1587. + + [162] Madame de Puissieux died in 1677, at the age of eighty. + + [163] Venice points are not mentioned by name till the ordinance of 1654. + See GREEK ISLANDS. + + [164] _Hudibras._ + + [165] Italy we believe to have furnished her own thread. "Fine white or + nun's thread is made by the Augustine nuns of Crema, twisted after + the same manner as the silk of Bolonia," writes Skippin, 1651. + + [166] _Halimedia opuntia_, Linn. + + [167] That most frequently met with is the Corona of Vecellio. See + APPENDIX. + + [168] First mentioned in the Sforza Inventory, 1493 (see MILAN); not in + the pattern-books till Vecellio, 1592; but Taglienti (1530) gives + "su la rete," and "Il specchio di Pensieri" (1548), "purito in + rede." + + [169] Plate V. + + [170] First given in the _Honesto Esempio_. 1550 and _passim_. + + [171] Mentioned by Taglienti (1530), and afterwards in the _Trionfo_ + (1555), and _passim_. + + [172] Given in _Il Monte_, circ. 1550, but described by Firenzuola + earlier. See FLORENCE. + + [173] See Chap. III., notes 104 and 106. + + [174] "Toile de la Pale."--A pasteboard about eight inches square, + enclosed in cambric or lace, used to cover the paten when laid over + the cup. + + [175] The whole furniture of a room taken from a palace at Naples, + comprising curtains, and vallance of a bed, window curtains, toilet, + etc., of straw-coloured laces, reticella, embroidered netting, etc.; + the price asked was 18,000 francs = £720. There was also much of the + rose point, and a handkerchief bordered with beautiful flat Venetian + point of the same colour, forming part of a trousseau. 700 francs = + £28. + + [176] Taglienti (1530) has _groppi_, _moreschi_, and _arabeschi_; and _Il + Specchio_ (1548), _ponti gropposi_. See also the Sforza Inventory, + 1493. + + [177] See GENOA. + + [178] Taglienti (1530) gives _a magliata_, Parasole (1600) _lavori di + maglia_. + + [179] _Punti a stuora_ occur in _Il Specchio_ (1548), _I Frutti_ (1564), + and in the _Vera Perfettione_ (1591) the word _stuora_ (modern, + _stuoja_) means also a mat of plaited rushes, which some of these + interlaced patterns may be intended to imitate. + + [180] _Burato._ See APPENDIX. + + [181] There are many patterns for this work in _Le Pompe di Minerva_, + 1642. Taglienti (1530) has _desfilato_ among his _punti_. + + [182] Many other points are enumerated in the pattern-books, of which we + know nothing, such as _gasii_ (_I Frutti_, 1564), _trezola_ + (_Ibid_), _rimessi_ (_Vera Perfettione_, 1591), _opere a mazzette_ + (Vecellio, 1591, and Lucretia Bomana, N.D.). + + [183] _Tracts on Trade of the Seventeenth Century_, published by + MacCulloch, at the expense of Lord Monteagle. 1856. + + [184] Venice point forms a considerable item in the expenses of Charles + II. and his brother James. + + [185] Venice noted "for needlework laces, called points."--_Travels Thro' + Italy and France_, by J. Ray. 1738. + + [186] Misson, F. M., _Nouveau Voyage d'Italie_, 4me édition. La Haye, + 1702. + + [187] _Origine delle Feste Veneziane_, da Giustina R. Michiel. Milano, + 1829. + + [188] _An Itinerary, containing his Ten Yeeres Travel through Germany, + Bohmerland, Switzerland, Netherland, Denmark, Poland, Italy, Turkey, + France, England, Scotland, and Ireland._ Lond., 1617. + + [189] 1591. + + [190] See, in APPENDIX, designs for _bavari_ by Lucrezia. + + [191] The entry of the Venetian ambassador, Mocenigo, is described in the + _Mercure Galant_, 1709:-- + + "Il avoit un rabat de point de Venise.... Sa robe de damas noir avec + des grandes manches qui pendoient par derrière. Cette robe etoit + garnie de dentelle noir." + + [192] _Letters from Italy._ So, in a play of Goldoni, who wrote in the + middle of the last century, the lady has a Brussels (Angleterre) + head-dress. + + Don Flaminio: "Mi par bellisima cotesto pizzo Barbara: E un punto + d'Inghilterra che ha qualche merito."--_Gli Amori di Zelinda e + Lindoro._ + + In Goldoni's plays all the ladies make lace on the pillow + (_ballon_), so the art of making the needle Venice point was + probably at an end. + + [193] "La plus belle dentelle noire fait l'espèce de camail qui, sous un + chapeau noir emplumé, couvre leurs épaules et leur tête."--Madame du + Boccage, 1735. _Lettres sur l'Italie._ + + "Quella specie de lungo capuocio di finissimo merlo pur nero, + chiamato bauta."--Michiel. + + [194] "L'île de Burano où l'on fabrique les dentelles."--Quadri, _Huit + Jours à Venise_. + + [195] _Technical History of Venetian Laces_, Urbani de Gheltof. Translated + by Lady Layard. Venice, 1882. + + _Origines de la Dentelle de Venise et l'École de Burano._ Venice, + 1897. + + Traditions of lace-making were kept alive in Venice, Cantu and + Liguria during the first half of the nineteenth century by the + manufacture of an inferior quality of _blonde_, once extensively + made at Venice, which has since died out, owing to the revival in + the production of thread-lace and guipures at Palestrina. + + [196] "Velleto (veil) uno d'oro filato. + + "Payro uno fodrete (pillow-case) di cambria lavorate a gugia (à + l'aiguille). + + "Lenzuolo (sheet) uno di revo di tele (linen thread), cinque + lavorato a punto. + + "Peza una de tarnete (trina) d'argento facte a stelle. + + "Lenzolo uno de tele, quatro lavorato a _radexelo_ (reticello). + + "Peze quatro de _radexela_ per mettere ad uno moscheto (zanzariere, + mosquito curtain). + + "Tarneta una d'oro et seda negra facta da ossi (bones). + + "Pecto uno d'oro facto _a grupi_. + + "Lavoro uno de rechamo facto _a grupi_ dove era suso le pere de + Madona Biancha. + + "Binda una lavorata a poncto de doii fuxi (two bobbins) per uno + lenzolo."--_Instrumento di divizione tre le sorelle Angela ed + Ippolita Sforza Visconti_, di Milano, 1493, Giorno di Giovedì, 12 + Settembre. + + [197] "La mità de uno fagotto quale aveva dentro certi dissegni da + lavorare le donne." + + [198] Harl. MS. No. 1419. + + [199] Roll. P. R. O. + + [200] P. R. O. + + [201] De la Mare, _Traité de la Police_. + + [202] "Statuts, Ordonnances et Reglemens de la Communauté des Maistres + Passementiers, etc., de Paris, confirmez sur les anciens Statuts du + 23 mars 1558." Paris, 1719. + + [203] _Grand Dictionnaire Universel du Commerce._ 1723. + + [204] _Voyage en Italie._ 1765. + + [205] Peuchet, J., _Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante._ + Paris, An vii. = 1799. + + [206] _Letters from Italy_, by a lady. 1770. + + "Questo collar scolpì la donna mia + De basso rilevar, ch' Aracne mai, + E chi la vinse nol faria più bello. + Mira quel bel fogliame, ch' un acanto + Sembra, che sopra un mur vada carponi. + Mira quei fior, ch' un candido ne cade + Vicino al seme, apr' or la bocia l'altro. + Quei cordiglin, che'l legan d'ognitorno, + Come rilevan ben! mostrando ch' ella + E' la vera maestra di quest' arte, + Com ben compartiti son quei punti! + Ve' come son ugual quei bottoncelli, + Come s' alzano in guisa d'un bel colle + L'un come l' altro!... + Questi merli da man, questi trafori + Fece pur ella, et questo punto a spina, + Che mette in mezzo questo cordoncello, + Ella il fe pure, ella lo fece." + --_Elegia sopra un Collaretto_, + Firenzuola (circ. 1520). + + [208] Rymer's _Foedera_ (38 Hen. VIII. = 1546). + + [209] 4 Hen. VII. = 1488-89. + + [210] _Compte des dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, + Soeur du Roi._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394. + + [211] _Comptes de la Reine de Navarre._--Arch. Nat., K. K. 170. + + [212] In 1535. + + [213] She died in 1862. + + [214] See VENICE, 1. + + [215] _Inventaire du Trésor de N. D. de Lorette._--Bib. Nat. MSS. + + [216] _Letters from Italy._ + + [217] The _gremial_, or apron, placed on the lap of the Roman Catholic + bishops when performing sacred functions in a sitting + posture.--Pugin's _Glossary of Ecclesiastical Ornament_. + + [218] This reminds one of the lines of Goldsmith, in his poem, "The Haunch + of Venison," the giving of venison to hungry poets who were in want + of mutton; he says: + + "Such dainties to send them their health it would hurt; + It's like sending them ruffles when wanting a shirt." + + [219] _A true Relation of the Travailes, and most miserable Captivitie of + W. Davies._ Lond., 1614. + + [220] _An Italian Voyage, or a Complete Journey through Italy_, by Rich. + Lassels, Gent. 2nd edit., Lond., 1698. A reprint, with additions by + another hand, of the original edition. Paris, 1670. Lowndes' + _Bibliographer's Manual_. Bohn's new edit. + + [221] "Portano alcune vesti di tela di lino sottile, lunghe fino in terra, + con maniche larghe assai, attorno alle quali sono attaccati alcuni + merletti lavorati di refe sottilissimo."--Habiti di donna dell' + Isola d' Ischia. _Degli Habiti Antichi e Moderni di Diverse Parti + del Mondo di Cesare Vecellio._ Venezia, 1590. + + [222] We have among the points given by Taglienti (1530), "pugliese." Lace + is still made in Puglia and the other southern provinces of Naples + and in Sicily. + + The Contessa di Brazza says that Punto Pugliese resembled Russian + and Roumanian embroidery. + + [223] Brydone, _Tour through Sicily_. 1773. + + [224] From the tax-books preserved in the Archives of S. George, it + appears that a tax upon gold thread of four danari upon every lira + in value of the worked material was levied, which between 1411 and + 1420 amounted to L. 73,387. From which period this industry rapidly + declined, and the workers emigrated.--Merli. + + [225] Signore Tessada, the great lace fabricant of Genoa, carries back the + manufacture of Italian lace as early as the year 1400, and forwarded + to the author specimens which he declares to be of that date. + + [226] "Laqueo serico Jeano de coloribus, ad 5s. per doz." _G. W. A. + Eliz._--16 & 17 and 19 & 20. P. R. O. + + [227] Dated 1639. + + [228] _Garderobe de feue Madame._ 1646. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. + + [229] Le Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de Chevalerie. Paris, 1648. + + [230] Queen Christina is described by the Grande Mademoiselle, on the + occasion of her visit, as wearing "au cou, un mouchoir de point de + Gênes, noué avec un ruban couleur de feu."--_Mém. de Mademoiselle de + Montpensier._ + + "Item, ung peignoir, tablier et cornette de toile baptiste garnie de + point de Gênes."--1644. _Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons._ + + "Un petit manteau brodé et son collet de point de Gênes."--_The + Chevalier d'Albret._ + + "Linge, bijoux et points de Gênes."--Loret, _Muse Historique_. 1650. + + "Item, ung autre mouchoir de point de Gênes."--_Inv. du Maréchal de + La Motte._ 1657. + + [231] _Mém._, t. xiv., p. 286. + + [232] Signore Tessada has in his possession a pair of gold lappets of very + beautiful design, made at Genoa about the year 1700. + + [233] _Letters from Italy._ 1770. + + [234] Cavasco. _Statistique de Gênes._ 1840. + + [235] The bobbins appear to have been made in Italy of various materials. + We have _Merletti a fusi_, in which case they are of wood. The + Sforza inventory gives _a doii fuxi_, "two bobbins," then _a ossi_, + "of bone," and, lastly, _a piombini_; and it is very certain that + lead was used for bobbins in Italy. See PARASOLE (1600). + + [236] _Memorie Storiche di Santa Margherita._ Genoese pillow-laces are not + made with the réseau, but joined by bars. Of Milan lace it is said, + "It resembles Genoese pillow-lace in having the same scrolls and + flowers formed by a ribbon in close stitch, with a _mesh_ or _tulle_ + ground, whereas the Genoese lace is held together by bars."--C. di + Brazza, _Old and New Lace in Italy_ (1893). + + [237] Lefébure writes, "A version of these Milanese laces has been + produced by using tape for the scroll forms and flowers, and filling + in the open portions between the tapes by needlework stitches." The + C. di Brazza calls similar lace _Punto di Rapallo_ or _Liguria_, a + lace formed by a ribbon or braid of close lace following the outline + of the design with fancy gauze stitches made by knotting with a + crochet needle. The special characteristic of this lace is that the + braid is constantly thrown over what has gone before. The design is + connected by brides. A modification, where the braid is very fine + and narrow, and the turnings extremely complicated, and enriched by + no fancy stitches between, is _Punto a Vermicelli_.--_Old and New + Lace in Italy._ + + [238] Communicated by Sig. Gio. Tessada, Junr., of Genoa. + + [239] Gandolfi, _Considerazioni Agrario_. + + [240] A small borgo, about an hour's drive from Savona, on the road + leading to Genoa. + + [241] Cav. Merli. + + [242] In the Albert Museum of Exeter are several of these tallies marked + with the names of their owners--Bianca, Maria Crocera, and others. + + [243] "Many skilful lace-makers in Italy have for some time imitated the + old laces and sold them as such to travellers. A Venetian + lace-worker, now residing at Ferrara, can copy any old lace known" + (Mrs. Palliser, 1864). + + [244] This lappet, 357-68, in the Victoria and Albert Museum collection, + was described by Mrs. Palliser as "Argentella," and supposed to be + of Genoese workmanship. "Formerly much of it was to be met with in + the curiosity shops of that city, but now it is of rare occurrence. + The Duchess of Genoa possesses a splendid flounce of the same lace, + with the Doria eagle introduced into the pattern. It formerly + belonged to the Marchesa Barbaretta Saule" (Mrs. Palliser, _History + of Lace_, 1864). Contessa di Brazza suggests that Argentella was the + Italian for Argentan. + + [245] Called by the people of the Riviera, _filo del baccalà di + Castellaro_. Aloe fibre was formerly used for thread (Letter of Sig. + C. G. Schiappapietra). It is also styled _filo di freta_ in the + Venetian sumptuary ordinances. + + [246] The Author has to express her grateful thanks to Signore Don Tommaso + Torteroli, librarian to the city of Savona, and the author of an + interesting pamphlet (_Storia dei Merletti di Genova lavorati in + Albissola_, Sinigaglia, 1863), for specimens of the ancient laces of + Albissola, and many other valuable communications. + + [247] A word of Arabic derivation, used for denoting a fringe for + trimming, whether cotton, thread, or silk. + + [248] This custom of ornamenting the ends of the threads of linen was from + the earliest times common, and is still occasionally met with both + in the north and south of Europe. "At Bayonne they make the finest + of linen, some of which is made open like network, and the thread is + finer than hair" (_Ingenious and Diverting Letters of a Lady's + Travels in Spain_, London, 1679). + + There is a painting of the "Last Supper" at Hampton Court Palace, by + Sebastian Ricci, in which the tablecloth is edged with cut-work; and + in the great picture in the Louvre, by Paul Veronese, of the supper + at the house of Simon the Canaanite, the ends of the tablecloth are + likewise fringed and braided like the _macramé_. + + [249] LACE SCHOOLS IN ITALY.--At Coccolia, near Ravenna, Countess Pasolini + founded a school on her property to teach and employ the peasant + women and copy antique designs. Another more recently established + school near Udine, in the province of Friuli, is under the direction + of the Contessa di Brazza. Among charitable institutions which + interest themselves in the lace industry are the Industrial School + of SS. Ecce Homo at Naples, and San Ramiri at Pisa, which was + originally founded by the Grand Dukes of Tuscany in the middle of + the eighteenth century to teach weaving. This industry, and that of + straw-plaiting, met with no success, and the school gradually + developed into an industrial school in the modern sense. There are + many schools on the same system in Florence, and one (San Pelegrino) + at Bologna. At Sassari, in Sardinia, the deaf and dumb children in + the great institution of the "Figlie di Maria" are taught to make + net lace. Torchon and Brussels pillow lace is worked under the + direction of the Sisters of Providence in the women's prison at + Perugia. + + [250] Laborde, _Glossaire_. Paris, 1853. + + [251] Statute 2 Hen. VI., c. x., 1423. + + [252] Taglienti (1530) among his _punti_ gives _Ciprioto_ (an embroidery + stitch). + + [253] _Description de Raguse_ (Bib. Nat. MSS., F.Fr. 10,772). + + [254] Points de Raguse--first mentioned in an Edict of January, 1654, by + which the king raises for his own profit one quarter of the value of + the "passems, dentelles, points coupez de Flandres, pointinars, + points de Venise, de Raguse, de Gênes," etc. (_Recueil des Lois + Françaises_). Again, the Ordinance of August, 1665, establishes the + points de France, "en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, + Gênes, Raguse, et autres pays étrangers," recited in the _Arrêt_ of + Oct. 12th, 1666.--De Lamare, _Traité de la Police_. + + [255] See VENICE. + + [256] In 1661. + + [257] See head of chapter. + + [258] In 1667. + + [259] See APPENDIX. + + [260] _A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Lace in the Victoria + and Albert Museum_, by the late Mrs. Bury Palliser. Third edition, + revised and enlarged by A. S. Cole. + + [261] _Edinburgh Advertiser_, 1764. + + [262] There is no corroboration of Mrs. Palliser's statement above that + lace was ever made in Malta; if so, it would have been of the + Genoese geometrical kind, of which Lady Hamilton Chichester adapted + the designs and evolved what is now known as Maltese lace by the aid + of workers imported from Genoa. The Maltese cross has been + introduced into the designs as a distinguishing mark. + + [263] "A lace of similar character (Maltese) has also been made + successfully in the missionary schools at Madras" (Mrs. Palliser). + + [264] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_. + + [265] In the Philippine Islands the natives work Manilla grass into a sort + of drawn thread-work or tatting. + + [266] 1756. _Point d'Espagne hats._--Connoisseur. + + [267] Beckmann, in his _History of Inventions_, says that "It was a + fashion to give the name of Spanish to all kinds of novelties, such + as Spanish flies, Spanish wax, Spanish green, Spanish grass, Spanish + seed, and others." + + [268] A. S. Cole. "Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making." + + [269] _Livre Nouveau de Patrons_ and _Fleurs des Patrons_ give various + stitches to be executed "en fil d'or, d'argent, de soie, et + d'autres." Both printed at Lyons. The first has no date; the + second, 1549. _Le Pompe_, Venezia, 1559, has "diversi sorti di + mostre per poter far, d'oro, di sete, di filo," etc. + + [270] "Not many years since, a family at Cadiz, of Jewish extraction, + still enjoyed the monopoly of manufacturing gold and silver + lace."--_Letter from Spain_, 1863. _Merletto Polichrome_, or + parti-coloured lace, was also invented and perfected by the Jews, + and was made in silk of various colours, representing fruit and + flowers. This industry has been revived in Venice, and carried to + great perfection. + + [271] Senor J. F. Riano. _The Industrial Arts in Spain._--"Lace." + + [272] "Spain has 8,932 convents, containing 94,000 nuns and + monks."--Townsend, J., _Journey Through Spain in the Years 1786 and + 1787_. + + [273] The aloe thread is now used in Florence for sewing the straw-plait. + + [274] Barcelona, 1892, page 225, quoted by Signor J. F. Riano. Date of + book 1592. + + [275] A. S. Cole, _Ancient Needle-point and Pillow-Lace_. + + [276] This ordinance even extended to foreign courts. We read in the + Mercure _Galant_, 1679, of the Spanish ambassadress, "Elle etoit + vestue de drap noir avec de la dentelle de soye; elle n'avait ni + dentelle ni linge autour de sa gorge." + + [277] _Mercure François._ + + [278] They have also provided-- + + "14 ruffs & 14 pairs of + cuffs laced, at 20s. £14 + + For lacing 8 hats for the + footmen with silver + parchment lace, at 3s. £1 4s." + + _Extraordinary Expenses of his Highness to Spain_, 1623. P. R. O. + + [279] Doctor Monçada, in 1660, and Osorio, in 1686, reckoned more than + three millions of Spaniards who, though well dressed, wore no + shirts.--_Townsend's Spain._ + + [280] Speaking of the apartment of Madame d'Aranda, Beckford writes: "Her + bed was of the richest blue velvet, trimmed with point lace." + + [281] Our English translation of _Don Quixote_ has led some authors into + adducing a passage as an evidence that the art of making bone lace + was already known in Cervantes' day. "Sanchica," writes Theresa + Pança to her husband, the newly-appointed Governor of Baratava, + "makes bone lace, and gets eight maravedis a day, which she drops + into a tin box to help towards household stuff. But now that she is + a governor's daughter, you will give her a fortune, and she will not + have to work for it." In referring to the original Spanish we find + the words rendered bone lace are "puntas de randas," signifying + works of lacis or réseuil--"ouvrage de lacis ou réseuil."--Oudin. + _Trésor des Deux Langues Fr. et Esp._ (1660). + + [282] As early as the Great Wardrobe Account of Queen Elizabeth, 1587, P. + R. O., we have a charge for bobbin lace of Spanish silk, "cum uñ + tag," for the mantle, 10s. 8d. + + In a letter from Prestwick Eaton to Geo. Willingham, 1631, the + writer sends 1000 reals (£25), and in return desires him to send, + together with a mastiff dog, some black satin lace for a Spanish + suit.--_State Papers, Domestic_, Car. I., P. R. O. + + [283] 1697. Marriage of Mademoiselle and the King of Spain. The Queen, + says the _Mercure_, wore "une mante de point d'Espagne d'or, neuf + aunes de long." 1698. Fête at Versailles on the marriage of the Duc + de Bourgogne. "La Duchesse de Bourgogne pourtoit un petit tablier de + point d'Espagne de mille pistoles."--_Galérie de l'ancienne Cour; ou + Mém. des Règnes de Louis XIV. et Louis XV._, 1788. + + 1722. Ball at the Tuileries. "Tous les seigneurs etaient en habits + de drap d'or ou d'argent garnis de points d'Espagne, avec des noeuds + d'épaule, et tout l'ajustement à proportion. Les moindres etaient de + velours, avec des points d'Espagne d'or et d'argent."--_Journal de + Barbier_, 1718-62. + + 1722. "J'ai vu en même temps le carosse que le roi fait faire pour + entrer dans Reims, il sera aussi d'une grande magnificence. Le + dedans est tout garni d'un velours à ramage de points d'Espagne + d'or."--_Ibid._ + + 1731. Speaking of her wedding-dress, Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, the + witty sister of Frederick the Great, writes: "Ma robe étoit d'une + étoffe d'or fort riche, avec un point d'Espagne d'or, et ma queue + étoit de douze aunes de long."--_Mémoires._ + + 1751. Fête at Versailles on the birth of the Duc de Bourgogne. The + coats of the "gens de cour, en étoffes d'or de grand prix ou en + velours de tout couleurs, brodés d'or, ou garnis de point d'Espagne + d'or."--_Journal de Barbier._ + + [284] _Fenix de Cataluña, compendio desus Antiguas Grandezas y Medio para + Renovarlas_, Barcelona, 1683, p. 75. + + [285] In the reign of William and Mary, we find, in a lace-man's bill of + the Queen, a charge for forty-seven yards of rich, broad, scalloped, + embossed point de Spain; and her shoes are trimmed with gold and + silver lace.--B. M., Add. MSS.; No. 5751. + + At the entry of Lord Stair into Paris, 1719, his servants' hats are + described as laced with Spanish point, their sleeves laced with + picked silver lace, and dented at the edge with lace.--_Edinburgh + Courant._ + + In 1740, the Countess of Pomfret, speaking of the Princess Mary's + wedding clothes, writes: "That for the wedding night is silver + tissue, faced at the bottom before with pink-coloured satin, trimmed + with silver point d'Espagne."--_Letters of the Countess of Hartford + to the Countess of Pomfret_, 1740. + + [286] Marquis de la Gombardière, 1634, _Nouveau Réglement Général des + Finances_, etc. + + [287] "Eighty children and grandchildren attended his funeral in defiance + of the Edict of 19th Sept., 1664, and were heavily fined."--_La + France Protestante_, par M. M. Haag. Paris, 1846-59. + + [288] Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre. Arch. Nat. K. K. + 390-1. + + [289] Lord Verulam on the treaty of commerce with the Emperor Maximilian. + + [290] _Gentleman's Magazine_, 1745. + + [291] Peyron, 1789. + + [292] Madrid, 1775. + + [293] _Itinéraire de l'Espagne_, Comte Alph. de Laborde, t. v. + + [294] Peuchet (_Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante_, An. + vii. = 1799), speaking of Barcelona, says their laces are "façon de + France," but inferior in beauty and quality. The fabrication is + considerable, employing 2,000 women in the towns and villages east + of Barcelona. They are sold in Castile, Andalusia, and principally + in the Indies. + + [295] Madrid, 1788. Vol. ii, p. 149. + + [296] _Ibid._ Vol. xvii., p. 294. + + [297] "The manufacture of silk lace or blonde in Almagro occupies from + 12,000 to 13,000 people" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869). Modern torchon laces + are still made at Almagro to a very large extent (1901). + + [298] Madrid, 1788. + + [299] Madrid, 1797. + + [300] Senor Juan F. Riano, _The Industrial Arts in Spain_, "Lace" (London, + 1879). + + [301] _Theory of Commerce_, from the Spanish of Don. Ger. de Ustariz + (Lond., 1751). + + [302] When the holidays of the Roman Catholic church are deducted, the + work-days of the people amount only to 260 in the course of the + year--fifty less than in a Protestant country. + + [303] Ford, _Handbook of Spain_. + + [304] 1869. + + [305] "Now there are only two kinds of lace made in Spain; 'encaje de + blonda,' mantillas, scarves, lace-ties, etc., in white and black; + these are manufactured in Barcelona, on long pillows stuffed with + long straw quite hard, covered with yellow or light blue linen. The + lace is worked on a cardboard pattern, and with 'fuseaux' like the + French torchon lace, the only difference being that the pillow is + long and narrow and without the revolving cylinder in the centre, so + that when making a long piece, or lace by the yard, the pins have to + be taken out when you get to the bottom of the pillow, and the work + removed to the top and continued. The mantillas, etc., are worked by + pieces; that is to say, the border, flowers, and large designs, and + are afterwards joined by the veil stitch. + + "The second is 'encaje de Almagro'--little children of six and seven + years old are taught to make it."--_Letter from Spain_, 1901. + + [306] "On met de la dentelle brodée de couleur de points d'Espagne aux + jupes"--_Mercure Galant._ + + [307] _Recherches sur le Commerce, la Fabrication et l'Usage des Etoffes + de Soie, etc., pendant le Moyen Age._ Paris, 1839. + + [308] Taglienti, Venice, 1530. + + [309] Paris, 1546. + + [310] Pelegrin de Florence, Paris, 1530. + + [311] _Magazin de Londres_, 1749. + + [312] Mademoiselle Dumont, foundress of the point de France fabric, in the + Rue St. Denis, quitted Paris after some years and retired to + Portugal: whether she there introduced her art is more than the + author can affirm. + + [313] It was probably a variety of point de Venise. A few years ago a + specimen of point plat was exhibited in London with a Portuguese + inscription and designs of figures in costumes of _circ._ 1600. + + See Plate IX. + + [314] The bobbins from Peniche, one of the few places in Portugal where + pillow-lace is still made, are remarkably pretty. They are of ivory, + agreeably mellowed by time and constant handling, and their slender + tapering shafts and bulbous ends are decorated simply but tastefully + with soft-tinted staining. In size they are small, measuring from + three and a quarter to three and a half inches long, and these + proportions are extremely good. Another variety of Peniche bobbin is + made of dark brown, boldly-grained wood. The lace-makers work on a + long cylindrical cushion--the _almofada_--fastened to a high, + basket-work stand, light enough to be easily moved from place to + place.--R. E. Head, "Some Notes on Lace-Bobbins," _The Reliquary_, + July, 1900. + + [315] _The Queen_, August, 1872. + + "The places in Portugal where the lace industry is chiefly exercised + are Peniche, Vianna do Castello, Setubal, a village in Algarve + called Faro, and at the present time Lisbon, where, under the help + and patronage of H. M. the Queen, a lace dépot has been instituted, + in which I have worked for ten years, seeking to raise the + Portuguese lace industry to an art. The designs being entirely my + own original ones, I am trying to give them a character in unison + with the general idea of the architecture throughout the country. I + obtained gold medals for my work at the Exhibitions of 1894 at + Antwerp and 1900 at Paris, besides others at Lisbon."--Letter from + Dona Maria Bordallo Pinheiro, head of the Lace Industry Department + at Lisbon, 1901. + + [316] "There are now seven families employed in the fabrication of Maltese + lace, which is made almost entirely by men; the women occupy + themselves in the open-work embroidery of muslin" (1869). + + [317] Those in the collegiate church of St. Peter's, at Louvain, and in + the church of St. Gomar, at Lierre (Antwerp Prov.).--Aubry. + + [318] Baron Reiffenberg, in _Mémoires de l'Académie de Bruxelles_. 1820. + + [319] Engraved by Collaert. Bib. Nat. Grav. + + [320] _Louvain dans le passé et dans le présent, formation de la ville, + événements memorables, territoire, topographie, institutions, + monuments, oeuvres d'art_, page 330, by Edward van Even, published + 1895. + + [321] M. de Barante. + + [322] It goes on: "For the maiden, seated at her work, plies her fingers + rapidly, and flashes the smooth balls and thousand threads into the + circle. Often she fastens with her hand the innumerable needles, to + bring out the various figures of the pattern; often, again, she + unfastens them; and in this her amusement makes as much profit as + the man earns by the sweat of his brow; and no maiden ever complains + at even of the length of the day. The issue is a fine web, open to + the air with many an aperture, which feeds the pride of the whole + globe; which encircles with its fine border cloaks and tuckers, and + shows grandly round the throats and hands of kings; and, what is + more surprising, this web is of the lightness of a feather, which in + its price is too heavy for our purses. Go, ye men, inflamed with the + desire of the Golden Fleece, endure so many dangers by land, so many + at sea, whilst the woman, remaining in her Brabantine home, prepares + Phrygian fleeces by peaceful assiduity."--_Jacobi Eyckii + Antwerpiensis Urbium Belgicarum Centuria._ Antw. 1651. 1 vol., 4to. + Bib. Royale, Brussels. + + [323] Alençon excepted. + + [324] It is said to destroy the eyesight. "I was told by a gentleman well + acquainted with Flanders," says McPherson, "that they were + generally almost blind before thirty years of age."--_History of + Commerce_, 1785. + + [325] Together with the cap is preserved a parchment with this + inscription: "Gorro que perteneccio à Carlos Quinto, emperad. Guarda + lo, hijo mio, es memoria de Juhan de Garnica." ("Cap which belonged + to the Emperor Charles V. Keep it, my son, in remembrance of John de + Garnica"). J. de Garnica was treasurer to Philip II. + + Séguin, however, is of opinion that this cap belonged to one of + Charles V.'s successors:-- + + "Ce bonnet ... a dû appartenir très certainement à un de ses + successeurs (of Charles V.), à cause que ce bonnet se trouve coupé + et encadré par un petit entre-deux de guipure au fuseau, façon point + de Gênes, qui ne pouvait pas avoir été fait du temps de Charles + Quint."--Séguin, _La Dentelle_. + + [326] Married, 1599, Albert, Archduke of Austria. + + [327] By Andrew Yarranton, Gent. London, 1677. A proposal to erect schools + for teaching and improving the linen manufacture as they do "in + Flanders and Holland, where little girls from six years old upwards + learn to employ their fingers." Hadrianus Junius, a most learned + writer, in his description of the Netherlands, highly extols the + fine needlework and linen called cambric of the Belgian nuns, which + in whiteness rivals the snow, in texture satin, and in price the + sea-silk--Byssus, or beard of the Pinna. + + [328] An old term, still used in Scotland, for gossip, chatter. + + [329] These dogs were of large size, and able to carry from 22 to 26 lbs. + They also conveyed tobacco. The Swiss dogs smuggle watches. + + [330] Black lace was also imported at this period from the Low Countries. + Among the articles advertised as lost, in the _Newsman_ of May 26th, + 1664, is, "A black lute-string gown with a black Flanders lace." + + [331] Mercure Galant. 1678. + + [332] "Le corsage et les manches étaient bordés d'une blanche et légère + dentelle, sortie à coup sûr des meilleures manufactures + d'Angleterre." + + [333] We have, however, one entry in the Wardrobe Accounts of the Duc de + Penthièvre: "1738. Onze aunes d'Angleterre de Flandre." + + [334] _Mercure Galant._ 1678. + + [335] "Deux paires de manchettes et une cravatte de point + d'Angleterre."--_Inventaire d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, + veuve de François de Simiane._ Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. + + [336] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. Mich. Philippine de la Vrillière, + Patriarche, Archevêque de Bourges_, 1694. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. + 11,426. + + "Une toilette et sa touaille avec un peignoir de point + d'Angleterre."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Charollais._ 1758. + Arch. Nat. + + [337] _Mrs. Calderwood's Journey through Holland and Belgium_, 1756. + Printed by the Maitland Club. + + [338] Flax is also cultivated solely for lace and cambric thread at St. + Nicholas, Tournay, and Courtrai. The process of steeping + (_rouissage_) principally takes place at Courtrai, the clearness of + the waters of the Lys rendering them peculiarly fitted for the + purpose. Savary states that fine thread was first spun at Mechlin. + + [339] It is often sold at £240 per lb., and in the Report of the French + Exhibition of 1859 it is mentioned as high as £500 (25,000fr. the + kilogramme). No wonder that so much thread is made by machinery, and + that Scotch cotton thread is so generally used, except for the + choicest laces. But machine-made thread has never attained the + fineness of that made by hand. Of those in the Exhibition of 1862, + the finest Lille was 800 leas (a technical term for a reel of 300 + yards), the Brussels 600, the Manchester 700; whereas in Westphalia + and Belgium hand-spun threads as fine as 800 to 1000 are spun for + costly laces. The writer has seen specimens, in the Museum at Lille, + equal to 1200 of machinery; but this industry is so poorly + remunerated, that the number of skilful hand-spinners is fast + diminishing. + + [340] _Dictionnaire du Citoyen._ 1761. + + [341] _Comptes de Madame du Barry._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8157 and 8. + + [342] "Trois aubes de batiste garnies de grande dentelle de gros point + d'Angleterre."--_Inv. des Meubles, etc., de Louis, Duc d'Orléans, + decedé 4 fev. 1752._ (Son of the Regent.) Arch. Nat. X. 10,075. + + "Deux aubes de point d'Angleterre servant à Messieurs les curez. + + "Une autre aube à dentelle de gros point servant aussy à M. le + curé."--_Inventaire et Description de l'Argenterie, Vermeil Doré, + Ornemens, Linge, etc., appartenant à l'Oeuvre et Fabrique de + l'église Saint-Merry à Paris._ 1714. Arch. Nat. L.L. 859. + + [343] "Une coëffure à une pièce d'Angleterre bride et réseau."--_Comptes + de Madame du Barry._ + + "1 aune et quart d'Angleterre mêlé."--_Ibid._ + + [344] Mrs. Delany writes ("Corr.," vol. 2): The laces "I have pitched on + for you are charming; it is grounded Brussels." + + "Deux tours de gorge à raiseau, un tour de camisolle à + bride."--1720. _Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. X. + 10,062-4. + + "Six peignoirs de toille fine garnis par en haut d'une vielle + dentelle d'Angleterre à raiseau."--_Inv. de decès de Monsieur + Philippe petit fils de France, Duc d'Orléans, Regent du Royaume, + decedé 2 décembre, 1723._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,067. + + The "fond écaillé" often occurs. + + "Une coëffure à une pièce de point à l'écaille; + + "Une paire de manchettes de cour de point à raizeau, et deux devants + de corps de point à brides à écailles."--1761. _Inv. de la Duchesse + de Modène._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,082. + + "Deux barbes, rayon, et fond d'Angleterre superfin fond + écaillé."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ See her _Angleterre_, Chap. + XI. note 26. + + [345] To which machinery has added a third, the tulle or Brussels net. + + [346] The needleground is three times as expensive as the pillow, because + the needle is passed four times into each mesh, whereas in the + pillow it is not passed at all. + + [347] "Trois oreillers, l'un de toille blanche picquée garnis autour de + chacun d'un point plat."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène._ + + [348] _Tableau de Paris_, par S. Mercier. Amsterdam, 1782. + + [349] "Fashion." J. Warton. + + [350] Brussels lace-makers divide the plat into three parts, the "mat," + the close part answering to the French _toilé_ (Chapter III.); _gaze + au fuseau_, in which small interstices appear, French _grillé_, and + the _jours_, or open work. + + [351] The veil presented by the city of Brussels to the Empress Josephine + was sold in 1816 by Eugene Beauharnais to Lady Jane Hamilton. It is + described to have been of such ample dimensions that, when placed on + Lady Jane's head--who was upwards of six feet high--it trained on + the ground. The texture of the réseau was exquisitely fine. In each + corner was the imperial crown and cypher, encircled with wreaths of + flowers. This _chef d'oeuvre_ passed into the possession of Lady + Jane's daughter, the Duchesse de Coigny. + + [352] To afford an idea of the intrinsic value of Brussels lace, we give + an estimate of the expense of a fine flounce (_volant_), of _vrai + réseau mélangé_ (point and plat), 12 metres long by 35 centimetres + wide (13¼ yards by 14 inches)-- + + Fr. + Cost of the plat 1,885.75 + Needle-point 5,000 + Open-work, _jours_ (_fonnage_) 390 + Appliqué (_stricage_) 800 + Ground (_réseau_) 2,782 + Footing (_engrêlure_) 1.27 + --------- + Total 10,859.02 + --------- + = £434 7 6 + + Equals £36 3s. 9d. the metre, and the selling price would be about + £50 16s., which would make the flounces amount to £609 12s. + + [353] "Une paire de manchettes de dentelle de Malines brodée." + + "Quatre bonnets de nuit garnis de Malines brodée."--_Inv. de decès + de Mademoiselle de Charollais._ 1758. + + [354] _Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ 1720. + + "1704. Deux fichus garnis de dentelle de Malines à bride ou rézeau. + + "Une cravatte avec les manchettes de point de Malines à bride. + + "Deux autres cravattes de dentelle de Malines à rézeau et trois + paires de manchettes de pareille dentelle."--_Inv. de Franç. + Phelypeaux Loisel._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,459. + + [355] _Inv. de decès de Madame Anne, Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de + Condé._ 1723. Arch. de Nat. X. 10,065. + + [356] In the accounts of Madame du Barry, we have "Malines bâtarde à + bordure." + + [357] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de la Motte._ Bib. Nat. + MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. "Quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de + passement tant de Venise, Gennes, et de Malines." + + [358] _Voyage en Flandre._ 1681. + + [359] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751. + + [360] Gr. Ward. Acc. P. R. O. + + [361] _Ibid._ + + [362] "On chamarre les jupes en quiles de dentelles plissées."--_Mercure + Galant._ 1678. + + "Un volant dentelle d'Angleterre plissée."--_Extraordinaire du + Mercure. Quartier d'Esté._ 1678. + + [363] "1741. Une coiffure de nuit de Malines à raizeau campanée de deux + pièces. + + "Une paire de manches de Malines brodée a raizeau campanée, un tour + de gorge, et une garniture de corset."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle de + Clermont._ + + "1761. Une paire de manches de Malines bridés non campanée, tour de + gorge, et garniture de corset."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène._ + + [364] "1720. Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle de Malines + à bride. + + "Deux peignoirs de toile d'Hollande garnis de dentelle, l'une + d'Angleterre à bride et l'autre de Maline à raiseau."--_Inv. de la + Duchesse de Bourbon._ "1750. Une dormeuse de Malines."--_Inv. de + Mademoiselle de Charollais._ + + "1770. 5½ grande hauteur de Malines pour une paire de manchettes, + 264 francs. + + "1 au. jabot pour le tour de gorge, 16. + + "5 au. ¼ Malines pour garnir 3 chemises au nègre à 12 fr." (The + wretch Zamor who denounced her.)--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ + + "1788. 6 tayes d'oreiller garnies de Malines."--_Etat de ce qui a + été fourni pour le renouvellement de Mgr. le Dauphin._ Arch. Nat. K. + 505, No. 20. + + "1792. 2 tayes d'oreillier garnis de maline."--_Notes du linge du + çi-devant Roi. Ibid._ No. 8. + + "1792. 24 fichus de batiste garnis de Maline. + + "2 taye d'orilier garnis de Maline."--_Renouvellement de M. le Duc. + de Normandie. Ibid._ + + [365] An Arrêt, dated 14 Aug., 1688, requires that "toutes les dentelles + de fil d'Anvers, Bruxelles, Malines et autres lieux de la Flandre + Espagnolle," shall enter only by Rousselars and Condé, and pay a + duty of 40 livres per lb.--Arch. Nat. _Coll. Rondonneau._ + + [366] In the list of foreign Protestants resident in England, 1618 to + 1688, we find in London, Aldersgate Ward, Jacob Johnson, born at + Antwerp, lace-maker, and Antony du Veal, lace-weaver, born in Turny + (Tournay). + + [367] This portrait has been engraved by Verbruggen, who gives it as that + of Catherine of Aragon. + + [368] _Mercure Galant_, 1696. + + [369] The flower-pot was a symbol of the Annunciation. In the early + representations of the appearance of the Angel Gabriel to the Virgin + Mary, lilies are placed either in his hand, or set as an accessory + in a vase. As Romanism declined, the angel disappeared, and the lily + pot became a vase of flowers; subsequently the Virgin was omitted, + and there remained only the vase of flowers. + + [370] See APPENDIX. + + [371] _Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Deux-Nèthes_, par le Citoyen + Herbouville. An X. = 1802. + + [372] Their names are given: Veuves Mesele, Papegay, and Turck. + + [373] Ypres Valenciennes was exhibited at £80 (the metre). The lace-maker, + working twelve hours a day, could scarcely produce one-third of an + inch a week. It would take her twelve years to complete a length of + six or seven metres, her daily earnings averaging two to three + francs. Ypres makes the widest Valenciennes of any manufacture + except Courtrai, whence was exhibited a half shawl (pointe) of + Valenciennes. + + [374] M. Duhayon Brunfaut, of Ypres. + + [375] _Treille_ is the general term for the ground (_réseau_) throughout + Belgium and the Dép. du Nord. + + [376] France alone buys of Belgium more Valenciennes than all the other + countries united; upwards of 12 millions of francs + (£480,000).--Aubry. + + [377] At Ghent two turns and a half, and at Courtrai three and a half. + Each town has its own peculiar stitch. + + [378] _L'Industrie Dentellière Belge_, par B. v. d. Dussen, Bruxelles, + 1860. + + [379] Robinson Crusoe, when at Lisbon, sends "some Flanders lace of a good + value" as a present to the wife and daughter of his partner in the + Brazils. + + [380] _Answer to Sir John Sinclair_, by Mr. H. Schoulthem, concerning the + manufactures of Ghent. 1815. + + [381] Arch. de Nat., Coll. Rondonneau. + + [382] _Point and Pillow Lace_, A. M. S. London, 1899. + + [383] "Une paire de manchettes de cour de dentelle de Binche; + + "Trois paires de manchettes à trois rangs de dentelle de Binche; + + "Deux fichus de mousseline bordées de dentelle de Binche; + + "Deux devants de corps de dentelle de Binche."--Arch. de Nat. X., + 10,082. + + [384] "M. Victor Hugo told the Author he had, in his younger days, seen + Binch guipure of great beauty."--Mrs. Palliser, 1869. + + [385] Letter of Sir Henry Wotton to Lord Zouch.--State Papers, Domestic, + Jas. I., P. R. O. + + [386] In the _Bulletin de l'Institut Archéologique_, Liègois XVIII., 1885, + is a copy of a contract dated January 23rd, 1634, whereby a + lace-maker of Liège, Barbe Bonneville, undertakes for 25 florins, + current money, to teach a young girl lace-making. + + Again, in the copy of a Namur Act of November, 1701, a merchant of + Namur orders from a Liègois "3 pieces of needle-made lace called + Venice point," to sell at the rate of 5½ florins, 4½ florins, and + one écu respectively. + + [387] Arch. de Nat., Coll. Rondonneau. + + [388] "Caïeteresses," from _caïets_, bobbins. + + [389] _Exposition de Liège_, par Chanoine Dubois, 1881. + + [390] _Statistique du dép. de la Meuse-Inf._, par le Citoyen Cavenne. An. + X. + + [391] Liège in the seventeenth century numbered 1600 workers, and produced + black and white laces which it exported to England, Germany and + France. The rich clergy of the country also bought a large quantity. + At the time of the Exhibition held there in 1881 the fabric had so + declined that it was impossible to find a single piece of lace that + had been made in the town. + + [392] _Fil tiré_, drawn and embroidered muslin-work so fine as to be + classed with lace, was made in Dinant in the religious communities + of the city and the "pays" of Dinant before the French Revolution. + At Marche lace with flowers worked directly on the réseau is made, + and the lace of Yorck is also imitated--a lace characterised by + additions worked on to the lace, giving relief to the + flowers.--_Exposition de Liège_, par Chanoine Dubois, 1881. The list + of Belgian laces also includes "Les points de Brabant, plus mats, et + plus remplis que les points de Flandres; les differentes dentelles + de fantaisie, non classées, puis les grosses dentelles de Couvin, en + soie noire, qui servaient jadis à garnir les pelisses des femmes de + l'Entre Sambre-et-Meuse."--_La Dentelle de Belgique_, par Mme. + Daimeries, 1893. + + [393] Italian fashions appeared early in France. Isabeau de Bavière, + wearer of the oriental _hennin_, and Valentine de Milan, first + introduced the rich tissues of Italy. Louis XI. sent for workmen + from Milan, Venice, and Pistoja, to whom he granted various + privileges, which Charles VIII. confirmed. + + Lace, according to Séguin, first appears in a portrait of Henri II. + at Versailles, a portrait painted in the latter years of his reign. + + "Les deux portraits de Francois I^{er} qui sont au Louvre n'en + laissent pas soupçonner l'usage de son temps. Aucun des autres + portraits historiques qui y sont, non plus que ceux des galeries de + Versailles de la même époque, n'en attestent l'existence, et le + premier où on la découvre est un portrait de Henri II à Versailles, + qui a dû être peint vers les dernières années de son règne. Le col, + brodé d'entrelacs de couleur, est bordé d'une petite dentelle bien + simple et bien modeste. Nous possédons des portraits authentiques + antérieurs au milieu du XVI^e siècle, des specimens incontestés des + costumes qui ont précédé cette époque, aucun de ces nombreux témoins + n'atteste son existence. + + "Il faut reconnaître que l'origine de la dentelle n'est pas + antérieure au milieu du XVI^e siècle."--Séguin, _La Dentelle_. + Paris, 1875. + + [394] In Ulpian Fulwell's _Interlude_, 1568, Nichol Newfangle says-- + + "I learn to make gowns with long sleeves and wings, + I learn to make ruffs like calves' chitterlings." + + [395] The Queen was accused by her enemies of having, by the aid of Maître + René, "empoisonneur en titre," terminated the life of Queen Jeanne + de Navarre, in 1571, by a perfumed ruff (not gloves--_Description de + la Vie de Catherine de Médicis_); and her favourite son, the Duke + d'Alençon, was said, cir. 1575, to have tried to suborn a valet to + take away the life of his brother Henry by scratching him in the + back of his neck with a poisoned pin when fastening his fraise. + + [396] _Satyre Menippée._ Paris, 1593. + + [397] _Chronologie Novenaire_, Vict. P. Cayet. + + [398] "S'ils se tournoient, chacun se reculoit, crainte de gater leurs + fraizes."--_Satyre Menippée._ + + "Le col ne se tourne à leur aise + Dans le long reply de leur fraise." + --_Vertus et Propriétés des Mignons_, 1576. + + [399] "Ces beaux mignons portoient ... leur fraizes de chemise de toute + d'atour empesez et longues d'un demi-pied, de façon qu'à voir leurs + testes dessus leurs fraizes, il sembloit que ce fut le chef de Saint + Jean dans un plat."--_Journal de Henri III._, Pierre de l'Estoille. + + [400] _Perroniana._ Cologne, 1691. + + [401] "Goudronnées en tuyaux d'orgue, fraisées en choux crépus, et grandes + comme des meules de moulin."--_Blaise de Viginière._ + + "La fraize veaudelisée à six étages."--_La Mode qui Court._ Paris, + n.d. + + [402] "Appelez par les Espagnols 'lechuguillas' ou petites laitues, à + cause du rapport de ces gaudrons repliées avec les fraisures de la + laitue."--_Histoire de la Ville de Paris_, D. Mich. Félibien. + + [403] "1575. Le roy alloit tous les jours faire ses aumônes et ses prières + en grande devotion, laissant ses chemises à grands goderons, dont il + estoit auparavant si curieux, pour en prendre à collet renversé a + l'Italienne."--_Journal de Henri III._, Pierre de l'Estoille. + + [404] No less than ten were sent forth by the Valois kings, from 1549 to + 1583. + + [405] These were dated 1594, 1600, 1601, and 1606. + + [406] Copper used instead of gold thread for embroidery or lace. The term + was equally applied to false silver thread. + + "1582. Dix escus pour dix aulnes de gaze blanche rayée d'argent + clinquant pour faire ung voille à la Boullonnoise."--_Comptes de la + Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 170. + + [407] Regnier, Math., _Ses Satyres._ 1642. + + [408] The observation was not new. A Remonstrance to Catherine de Médicis, + 1586, complains that "leurs moulins, leurs terres, leurs prez, leurs + bois et leurs revenuz, se coulent en broderies, pourfilures, + passemens, franges, tortis, canetilles, recameurs, chenettes, + picqueurs, arrièrepoins, etc., qu'on invente de jour à + autre."--_Discours sur l'extrême cherté, etc., presenté à la Mère du + Roi, par un sien fidelle Serviteur (Du Haillan)._ Bordeaux, 1586. + + [409] "1579. Pour avoir remonsté trois fraises à poinct couppé, 15 sols. + + "Pour avoir monté cinq fraizes à poinct couppé sur linomple, les + avoir ourllés et couzeus à la petite cordellière et au poinct noué à + raison de 30 sols pour chacune. + + "Pour la façon de sept rabatz ourllés à double arrièrepoinct et + couzu le passement au dessus. + + "1580. Pour avoir faict d'ung mouchoir ouvré deux rabatz, 20 sols. + + "Pour deux pieces de poinct couppé pour servir à ladicte dame, VI + livres. + + "Pour dix huict aulnes de passement blanc pour mestre à des fraizes + à trois escus l'aulne." + + 1582. The account for this year contains entries for "passement + faict à lesguille," "grand passement," "passement faict au mestier," + etc.--_Comptes de la Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. + + [410] "Vingt trois chemizes de toile fine à ouvrage de fil d'or et soye de + plusieurs coulleurs, aux manchettes coulet et coutures. + + "Ung chemize à ouvrage de soye noire. + + "Quatre chemizes les trois à ouvrage d'or et d'argent et soye + bleu."--_Inv. des meubles qui ont estés portés à Paris._ 1602. Arch. + Nat. + + [411] "1577. A Jehan Dupré, linger, demeurant à Paris, la somme de + soixante douze livres tournois à luy or donnée pour son payement de + quatre layz d'ouvraige à poinct couppé pour faire une garniture de + chemise pour servir à mon dict segneur, à raison de 18 liv. + chacune."--_Comptes de la Reine de Navarre._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 162, + fol. 655. + + [412] "This shirt," he adds, "is well attested. It became the perquisite + of the king's first valet de chambre. At the extinction of his + descendants, it was exposed to sale."--_Memoirs._ + + A rival shirt turned up (c. 1860) at Madame Tussaud's with "the real + blood" still visible. Monsieur Curtius, uncle of Madame Tussaud, + purchased it at an auction of effects once the property of Cardinal + Mazarin. Charles X. offered 200 guineas for it. + + [413] "Item, cinq mouchoirs d'ouvrages d'or, d'argent et soye, prisez + ensemble cent escuz. + + "Item, deux tauayelles aussi ouvrage d'or, d'argent et soye, prisées + cent escuz. + + "Item, trois tauayelles blanches de rezeuil, prisées ensemble trente + escuz. + + "Item, une paire de manches de point coupé et enrichies d'argent, + prisez vingt escuz. + + "Item, deux mouchoirs blancz de point coupé, prisez ensemble vingt + escuz. + + "Toutes lesquelles tauayelles et mouchoirs cy dessus trouvez dans un + coffre de bahu que la dicte defunte dame faisoit ordinairement + porter avec elle a la court sont demeurez entre les mains du S^r de + Beringhen, suivant le commandement qu'il en avoit de sa majesté pour + les representer à icelle, ce qu'il a promis de faire."--_Inventaire + apres le decès de Gabrielle d'Estrées._ 1599. Arch. Nat. K. K. 157, + fol. 17. + + [414] "Item, un lit d'yvoire à filletz noirs de Padoue, garny de son estuy + de cuir rouge."--_Ibid._ + + [415] "Item, une autre tenture de cabinet de carré de rezeau brodurée et + montans recouvert de feuillages de fil avec des carrez de thoile + plaine, prisé et estimé la somme de cent escus Soleil. + + "Item, dix sept carrez de thoile de Hollande en broderie d'or et + d'argent fait a deux endroictz, prisez et estimez à 85 escus. + + "Item, un autre pavilion tout de rezeil avec le chapiteau de fleurs + et feuillages.... + + "Item, un autre en neuf fait par carrez de point coupé."--_Ibid._ + fols. 46 and 47. + + [416] "Manchettes et collets enrichys de point couppé."--_Inventaire apres + le decès de Messire Philippe Herault, Comte de Cheverny, Chancelier + de France._ 1599. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. 11,424. + + [417] In 1598. Vulson de la Colombière, _Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de + Chevalerie_. 1647. + + [418] _Satyrique de la Court._ 1613. + + [419] _Histoire de la Mère et du Fils_, from 1616 to 19. Amsterdam, 1729. + + [420] _Livre nouveau dict Patrons de Lingerie, etc._ + + _Patrons de diverses Manières, etc._ (Title in rhyme.) + + _S'ensuyvent les Patrons de Mesire Antoine Belin._ + + _Ce Livre est plaisant et utile._ (Title in rhyme.) + + [421] _La Fleur des Patrons de Lingerie._ + + [422] _Tresor des Patrons._ J. Ostans. + + [423] _Le Livre de Moresques_ (1546), _Livre de Lingerie_, Dom. de Sera + (1584), and _Patrons pour Brodeurs_ (no date), were also printed at + Paris. + + The last book on this kind of work printed at Paris is styled, + _Méthode pour faire des Desseins avec des Carreaux, etc._, by Père + Dominique Donat, religieux carme. 1722. + + [424] A point de Venise alb, of rose point, said to be of this period, is + in the Musée de Cluny. + + [425] "Quelques autres de frangez Bordent leur riche cuir, qui vient des + lieux estranges."--_Le Gan_, de Jean Godard, Parisien. 1588. + + [426] "1619. Deux paires de rozes à soulliers garnies de dentelle + d'or."--_Inv. de Madame Soeur du Roi._ (Henrietta Maria.) Arch. Nat. + + [427] _Satyrique de la Court._ + + [428] The inventory of the unfortunate Maréchal de Marillac, beheaded + 1632, has "broderye et poinctz d'Espagnes d'or, argent et soye; + rabats et collets de point couppé; taffetas nacarat garnye de + dantelle d'argent; pour-poinct passementé de dantelle de canetille + de Flandre," etc.--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. + + [429] 1620, Feb. 8th. "Déclaration portant deffenses de porter des + clinquants, passements, broderies," etc.--Arch. Nat. G. G. G. + + 1623, March 20th. "Déclaration qui defend l'usage des étoffes d'or," + etc.--_Recueil des anciennes Lois Françaises._ T. 16, 107. + + 1625, Sept. 30th. Déclaration prohibits the wearing of "collets, + fraizes, manchettes, et autres linges des passements, Point coupez + et Dentelles, comme aussi des Broderies et Decoupures sur quentin ou + autre toile."--Bib. Nat. L. i. 8. + + [430] _Consolation des Dames sur la Reformation des passemens._ 1620. + + [431] Again, 1633, Nov. 18th. Déclaration restricts the prohibition; + permits "passements manufacturés dans le royaume qui n'excederont 9 + ll. l'aune."--Arch. Nat. G. G. G. + + 1634, May 30th. "Lettres patentes pour la reformation du luxe des + habits," prohibits "dentelles, passements et broderies" on boots, + carriages, etc. (British Museum). + + 1636, April 3rd. "Déclaration contre le Luxe." Again prohibits both + foreign and home-made points coupés, etc., under pain of banishment + for five years, confiscation, and a fine of 6000 francs.--De la + Mare, _Traité de la Police_. + + 1639, Nov. 24th. Fresh prohibition, points de Gênes specially + mentioned. Not to wear on the collar, cuffs, or boots, "autres + choses que de la toile simple sans aucune façon."--Arch. Nat. G. G. + G. + + [432] _Le Courtisan Reformé, suivant l'Edit. de l'année 1633_; and again, + _Le Jardin de la Noblesse Françoise dans lequel ce peut cueillir + leur manière de Vettement_. 1629. + + [433] April, 1636. + + [434] 1631. _Trésorerie de la Reine Marie de Médicis._--Arch. Nat. K. K. + 191. + + [435] Vulson de la Colombière, _Pompes qu'on pratique aux obséques des + Rois de France_. + + [436] _Mémoires de Guy Joly_, from 1648 to 1665. + + [437] About this period a special Act had confirmed the Statutes of the + Maîtres Passementiers of Paris. By Article 21, they are privileged + to make every sort of passement or lace, "sur l'oreiller, aux + fuzeaux, aux épingles, et à la main," on condition the material, + gold, silver, thread, or silk, be "de toutes fines ou de toutes + fausses." The sale of thread and lace was allowed to the Lingères, + but by an Arrêt of the Parliament of Paris, 1665, no one could be a + marchande lingère unless she had made profession of the "religion + catholique, apostolique, et romaine," a condition worthy of the + times. "Il n'y fut," writes Gilles de Felice, in his _Histoire des + Protestants de France_, "pas jusqu'à la corporation des lingères qui + ne s'en allât remontrer au conseil que leur communauté, ayant été + instituée par saint Louis, no pouvait admettre d'hérétiques, et + cette réclamation fut gravement confirmée par un arrêt du 21 août, + 1665." + + [438] Dated November 19th, 1653. The letter is given in full by the + Marquis de Laborde in _Le Palais Mazarin_. Paris, 1845. + + [439] _Inv. fait apres la mort du Cardinal Mazarin_, 1661.--Bibl. Nat. + MSS. Suite de Mortmart, 37. + + [440] It is to be found at the Archives National, or in the Library of the + Cour de Cassation. In the Archives National is a small collection of + ordinances relative to lace collected by M. Rondonneau, extending + from 1666 to 1773. It is very difficult to get at all the + ordinances. Many are printed in De la Mare (_Traité de la Police_); + but the most complete work is the _Recueil général des anciennes + Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789_, par + MM. Isambert, Ducrusy, et Taillandier. Paris, 1829. The ordinances + bear two dates, that of their issue and of their registry. + + [441] This "canon," originally called "bas de bottes," was a circle of + linen or other stuff fastened below the knee, widening at the bottom + so as to fill the enlargement of the boot, and when trimmed with + lace, having the appearance of a ruffle. + + [442] _Dictionnaire des Précieuses._ 1660. Molière likewise ridicules + them:-- + + "Et de ces grands canons, où, comme des entraves, + On met tous les matins les deux jambes esclaves." + --_L'École des Maris._ + + And again, in _L'École des Femmes_: + + "Ils ont de grands canons, force rubans et plumes." + + [443] _Les Délices de la France_, par M. Savinière d'Alquié. 1670. + + [444] The fashion of wearing black lace was introduced into England in the + reign of Charles II. "Anon the house grew full, and the candles lit, + and it was a glorious sight to see our Mistress Stewart in black and + white lace, and her head and shoulders dressed with + diamonds."--Pepys's _Diary._ + + "The French have increased among us many considerable trades, such + as black and white lace."--_England's Great Happiness_, etc. + Dialogue between Content and Complaint. 1677. + + "Item, un autre habit de grosse moire garny de dantelle d'Angleterre + noire."--1691. _Inv. de Madame de Simiane._ Arch. Nat., M. M. 802. + + [445] "Of this custom, a relic may still be found at the Court of Turin, + where ladies wear lappets of black lace. Not many years since, the + wife of a Russian minister, persisting to appear in a suit of + Brussels point, was courteously requested by the Grand Chamberlain + to retire" (1869). + + [446] _Chroniques de l'Oeil-de-Boeuf._ + + [447] Madame de Motteville is not complimentary to the ladies of the + Spanish Court: "Elles avoient peu de linge," she writes, "et leurs + dentelles nous parurent laides."--_Mémoires pour servir à l'histoire + d'Anne d'Autriche._ + + [448] Madame de Sévigné mentions these dresses: "Avez-vous ouï parler des + transparens?... de robes noires transparentes ou des belles + dentelles d'Angleterre."--_Lettres._ + + [449] 1690. _Chroniques de l'Oeil-de-Boeuf._ + + [450] 1661, May 27; 1662, Jan. 1; 1664, May 31, Sept. 18, and Dec. 12. + + [451] "On fabriquait précédemment ces espèces de dentelles guipures, dont + on ornait les aubes des prêtres, les rochets des évêques et les + jupons des femmes de qualité."--_Roland de la Platière._ The + articles on lace by Roland and Savary have been copied by all + succeeding writers on the subject. + + [452] Mgr. de Bonzy, Dec. 20, 1664. _Correspondance administrative sous + Colbert_, vol. 3. + + [453] Lefébure. + + [454] "Il y a très longtemps que le point coupé se faict icy, qui a son + débit selon le temps; mais qu'une femme nommée La Perrière (sic), + fort habile à ces ouvrages, trouva il y a quelques années le moyen + d'imiter les points de Venise, en sorte qu'elle y vint à telle + perfection que ceux qu'elle faisoit ne devaient rien aux estrangers. + Pour faire ces ouvrages il luy falloit enseigner plusieurs petites + filles auxquelles elle montroit à faire ce point ... à présent je + vous puis asseurer qu'il y a plus de 8,000 personnes qui y + travaillent dans Alençon, dans Seèz, dans Argentan, Falaise.... + + "Monseigneur, c'est une manne, et une vraie bénédiction du ciel qui + s'est espandue sur tout ce pays, dans lequel les petitz enfants + mesmes de sept ans trouvent moyen de gaigner leur vie. Les + vieillards y travaillent et les petites bergerettes des champs y + travaillent mêmes."--_Letter from Favier-Duboulay, intendant + d'Alençon since 1644._ Correspondance administrative sous le règne + de Louis XIV (quoted by Madame Despierres), vol. 3. + + [455] In 1842 M. Joseph Odolant Desnos, grandson of this author, writes, + "Ce fut une dame Gilberte, qui avait fait son apprentissage à + Venise, et était native d'Alençon. Dès qu'elle fut à ses ordres, ce + ministre (Colbert) la logea dans le magnifique château de Lonrai, + qu'il possédait près d'Alençon."--_Annuaire de l'Orne._ + + [456] _Mémoires historiques sur la ville d'Alençon_, M. Odolant Desnos. + Alençon, 1787. + + [457] "Le château de Lonrai ne passa dans la maison de Colbert que par le + mariage de Catherine Thérèse de Matignon, Marquise de Lonrai, avec + Jean-Baptiste Colbert, fils ainé du grand Colbert, le 6e septembre + 1678" (_i.e._, fourteen years after the establishment of points de + France at Alençon) --Madame Despierres, _Histoire de point + d'Alençon_. + + [458] Madame Despierres, after an exhaustive study of the mass of + documentary evidence on this point, gives as her opinion that-- + + "(1) La première personne qui à Alençon imita le point de Venise, et + par conséquent créa le point d'Alençon, fut Mme La Perrière, vers + 1650, et non Mme Gilbert. + + "(2) La préposée-directrice des manufactures de point de France des + différentes villes du royaume qui a établi les bureaux à Alençon, + fut Catherine de Marcq, et non pas une dame Gilbert. + + "(3) Les préposées mises à la tête de l'établissement d'Alençon + étaient Mme Raffy et Marie Fillesae, dont les noms ne répondent pas + à celui d'une dame Gilbert."--_Madame Despierres, Histoire de point + d'Alençon._ + + [459] Mrs. Palliser sought in vain for this ordinance in the Library of + the Cour de Cassation, where it is stated to be, by the authors of + the "Recueil général des anciennes Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 + jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789"; but fortunately it is recited in a + subsequent act, dated Oct. 12, 1666 (Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau), + by which it appears that the declaration ordered the establishment + in "les villes de Quesnoy, Arras, Reims, Sedan, Château-Thierry, + Loudun, Alençon, Aurillac, et autres du royaume, de la manufacture + de toutes sortes d'ouvrages de fil, tant à l'éguille qu'au coussin, + en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, Gennes, Raguse, et + autres pays estrangers, qui seroient appellés points de France," by + which it would appear the term point de France did not exclusively + belong to the productions of Alençon. After the company was + dissolved in 1675 the name of point de France was applied to point + d'Alençon alone. In a subsequent arrêt it is set forth that the + entrepreneurs have caused to be brought in great numbers the best + workers from Venice and other foreign cities, and have distributed + them over Le Quesnoy and the above-mentioned towns, and that now are + made in France "des ouvrages de fil si exquis, qu'ils esgallent, + mesme surpassent en beauté les estrangers."--_Bibl. de la Cour de + Cassation._ + + What became of these manufactures at Le Quesnoy and Château-Thierry, + of which not a tradition remains? + + [460] Talon, "secrétaire du cabinet," was one of the first members. We + find by an arrêt, Feb. 15, 1667, that this patent had already been + infringed. On the petition of Jean Pluymers, Paul, and Catherine de + Marcq, "entrepreneurs" of the fabric of points de France, his + Majesty confirms to them the sole privilege of making and selling + the said points.--Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau. Nov. 17 of the same + year appears a fresh prohibition of wearing or selling the + passements, lace, and other works in thread of Venice, Genoa, and + other foreign countries (British Museum), and March 17, 1668, + "Itératives" prohibitions to wear these, either new or "commencé + d'user," as injurious to a manufacture of point which gives + subsistence to a number of persons in the kingdom.--_Ibid._ Again, + Aug. 19, 1669, a fresh arrêt in consequence of complaints that the + workers are suborned and work concealed in Paris, etc.--Arch Nat., + Coll. Rondonneau. + + [461] Colbert said to Louis XIV.: "There will always be found fools enough + to purchase the manufactures of France, though France should be + prohibited from purchasing those of other countries." The King + agreed with the minister, whom he made chief director of the trade + and manufactures of the kingdom. + + [462] A favourite saying of Colbert. + + [463] The artists who furnished designs for all works undertaken for the + court of Louis XIV. must have supplied designs for the lace + manufactures: "In the accounts of the King's buildings is the entry + of a payment due to Bailly, the painter, for several days' work with + other painters in making designs for embroideries and points + d'Espagne" (Lefébure). + + [464] The principal centres of lace-making were Aurillac, Sedan, Rheims, + Le Quesnoy, Alençon, Arras, and Loudun, and the name "Points de + France" was given without distinction to all laces made at these + towns; preference was given in choosing these centres to those towns + already engaged in lace-making. Alençon produced the most brilliant + results, for from the beginning of the seventeenth century the town + had been engaged in needle-point lace, and some of the lace-makers + earned high wages, and showed great aptitude for the art. In her + _Histoire du Point d'Alençon_, Madame Despierres has made some + interesting extracts from various marriage contracts and wills:-- + + "A notable instance is that of a family named Barbot, the mother + having amassed 500 livres. Her daughter, Marthe Barbot, married + Michel Mercier, sieur de la Perrière, and brought him a + wedding-portion of 300 livres, the earnings of her industry; while + her sister Suzanne Barbot's wedding-portion, upon her marriage with + Paul Ternouillet, amounted to 6,000 livres, earned in making + cut-works and works en _velin_ (needle-point lace done on a + parchment pattern), which command a high price" (Lefébure). + + [465] The Venetian Senate, according to Charles Yriarte, regarded this + emigration of workers to France as a crime against the State, and + issued the following decree:-- + + "If any artist or handicraftsman practises his art in any foreign + land to the detriment of the Republic, orders to return will be sent + him; if he disobeys them, his nearest of kin will be put into + prison, in order that through his interest in their welfare his + obedience may be compelled. If he comes back, his past offence will + be condoned, and employment for him will be found in Venice; but if, + notwithstanding the imprisonment of his nearest of kin, he + obstinately decides to continue living abroad, an emissary will be + commissioned to kill him, and his next of kin will only be liberated + upon his death." + + [466] To afford an idea of the importance of the lace trade in France at + the beginning of the eighteenth century, and of the immense + consumption of lace in France, we give the following statistics:--In + 1707, the collection of the duties of lace was under-farmed to one + Étienne Nicolas, for the annual sum of 201,000 livres. The duty then + was of 50 livres per lb. weight of lace, so that there entered + annually into France above 400,000 lbs. of lace, which, estimating + at the lowest 1,000 lbs. of lace to be worth 1,000 livres, would + represent 4 millions of that epoch. Taking into calculation that + fraud was extensively practised, that the points of Venice and + Genoa, being prohibited, could not appear in the receipts; and that, + on the other part, the under-farmer did not pay the farmer-general + the 201,000 livres without the certainty of profit to himself, we + must admit that the figure, though high, is far from representing + the value of the foreign laces which entered France at that period. + We think that 8 millions (£320,000) would be below the true + figure.--_Rapport sur les Dentelles fait à la Commission française + de l'Exposition Universelle de Londres_, 1851. Felix Aubry. The best + history of lace published. + + [467] "Deux tours de chaire de point de France donnez depuis quelques + années par deux dames de la paroisse."--_Inv. de l'église de + Saint-Merry, à Paris._ Arch. Nat. L. L. 859. + + [468] _Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de + Condé._--_Ibid._ X. 10,065. + + [469] _Inv. de l'église de Saint-Gervais, à Paris._--_Ibid._ L. L. 854. + + [470] The saints, too, came in for their share of the booty. + + "There was St. Winifred," writes a traveller of the day, "in a point + commode with a large scarf on and a loup in hand, as tho' she were + going to mass. St. Denis, with a laced hat and embroidered coat and + sash, like a captain of the guards."--_Six Weeks in France._ 1691. + + [471] "Toille de Hollande, avec des grands points de France."--_Le + Cérémonial de la Nomination de Monseigneur le Dauphin._ 1668. Arch. + Nat. K. K. 1431. + + [472] _Le Mercure Galant._ Juillet, 1688. This periodical, which we shall + have occasion so frequently to quote, was begun in 1672, and + continued to July, 1716. It comprises, with the _Extraordinaires_, + 571 vols. in 12mo. + + _Le Mercure de France_, from 1717 to 1792, consists of 777 + vols.--Brunet. Manuel de Libraire. + + [473] _Le Mercure Galant._ + + [474] It was the custom, at the birth of a Dauphin, for the papal nuncio + to go to the palace and present to the new-born child "les langes + benites," or consecrated layette, on behalf of his Holiness the + Pope. The shirts, handkerchiefs, and other linen, were by + half-dozens, and trimmed with the richest point. This custom dates + as early as the birth of Louis XIII. Mercier describes the ceremony + of carrying the layette to Versailles in the time of Louis XV.--_Vie + du Dauphin, père de Louis XVI._ Paris, 1858. + + [475] In the Lancaster state bedroom, at Fonthill, was sold in 1823: "A + state bed quilt of Brussels point, for 100 guineas, and a Brussels + toilet cover for 30 guineas."--Fonthill. Sale Catalogue. + + "1694. Une toilette de satin violet picquée garny d'un point + d'Espagne d'or à deux carreaux de mesme satin et aussi + piqué."--_Inv. de Mgr. de la Vrillière, Patriarche, Archevêque de + Bourges._ Bib. Nat. + + "1743. Une toilette et son bonhomme garnie d'une vieille dentelle + d'Angleterre."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ + + "1758. Une toilette avec sa touaille de point fort vieux + d'Alençon."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollois._ + + "1770. Une tres belle toilette de point d'Argentan, en son surtout + de 9,000 livres. + + "Une tres belle toilette d'Angleterre, et son surtout de + 9,000."--_Cptes. de Madame du Barry._ + + [476] "On voit toujours des jupes de point de France."--_Mercure Galant_, + 1686. + + "Corsets chamarrés de point de France."--_Ibid._ + + [477] Madame de Sévigné describes Mademoiselle de Blois as "belle comme un + ange," with "un tablier et une bavette de point de + France."--_Lettres._ Paris, 27 Jan., 1674. + + [478] "Garnis de point de France formant une manière de rose + antique."--_Mercure Galant._ 1677. + + [479] In the Extraordinaire du _Mercure_ for 1678, we have, in "habit + d'este," gloves of "point d'Angleterre." + + [480] _Mercure Galant._ 1672. + + [481] _Ibid._ 1686. + + [482] _Mercure Galant._ Fév. 1685. + + [483] _Ibid._ 1678. + + [484] At the Mazarin Library there are four folio volumes of engravings, + after Bonnard and others, of the costumes of the time of Louis XIV.; + and at the Archives Nat. is a large series preserved in cartons + numbered M. 815 to 823, etc., labelled "Gravures de Modes." + + [485] _La Fontange altière._--Boileau. + + [486] The wife of Trajan wore this coiffure, and her sister Marcina + Faustina, wife of Antoninus, much regretted the fashion when it went + out. Speaking of this head-dress, says a writer in the _Bibliothèque + Universelle_ of 1693, "On regarde quelque fois des certaines choses + comme tout à fait nouvelles, qui ne sont que des vieilles modes + renouvellées. L'auteur en appelle un exemple dans les coiffures + elevées que portent les femmes aujourd'hui, croyant ajouter par là + quelque chose à leur taille. Les dames Romaines avaient la même + ambition et mettaient des ajustemens de tête tout semblables aux + Commodes et aux Fontanges de ce temps. Juvenal en parle expressément + dans sa Satire VI." + + [487] _Galerie de l'ancienne Cour._ + + [488] "1699. Oct. Le Vendredi 25, il y eut grande toilette chez Madame la + Duchesse de Bourgogne où les dames parurent, pour la première fois, + en coiffures d'une forme nouvelle, c'est à dire beaucoup plus + basses."--_Mercure Galant._ + + [489] "Corr. de la Duchesse d'Orléans, Princesse Palatine, mère du + Régent." + + [490] Speaking of the Iron Mask, Voltaire writes:--"His greatest passion + was for linen of great fineness and for lace."--_Siècle de Louis + XIV._ + + [491] Fought by Marshal Luxembourg--vieux tapissier de Notre-Dame--against + William of Orange. + + [492] Falbala--a deep single flounce of point or gold lace. The _Mercure + Galant_, 1698, describing the Duchess of Burgundy "à la promenade," + states: "Elle avoit un habit gris de lin en falbala, tout garny de + dentelles d'argent." + + "Femme de qualité en Steinkerke et Falbala."--Engraving of 1693. + + [493] See ENGLAND.--WILLIAM III. + + [494] Regnard. + + [495] Dame du palais to Queen Marie Thérèse, and afterwards first lady of + honour to the Duchess of Burgundy. She died 1726. + + [496] _Mercure Galant._ 1683. + + Again, in 1688, he says: "Les points de Malines sont fort en regne + pour les manches qu'on nomme engageantes. Ou y met des points + très-hauts, fort plissés, avec des pieds." + + "Ladies trimmed their _berthes_ and sleeves with lace; when the + sleeves were short they were called _engageantes_; when long, + _pagodes_. Upon skirts laces were worn _volantes_ or as flounces, + whence the name _volant_ or flounce, which has come into use for all + wide laces; these flouncings were draped either in _tournantes_ or + _quilles_, the former laid horizontally, the latter vertically upon + skirts; but in either case these were stitched down on each edge of + the lace, whereas flounces were fastened to dresses by the + _engrêlure_ or footing. Lace _barbes_ and _fontanges_ were used as + head-dresses." + + They appear to have been soon introduced into England, for Evelyn, + in his _Mundus Muliebris_, 1690, says: "About her sleeves are + engageants;" and the _Ladies' Dictionary_ of nearly the same date + gives: "Ængageants, double ruffles that fall over the wrist." + + In the lace bills of Queen Mary II., we find-- + + £ s. d. + "1694. 1¾ yd. Point for a + broad pair of Engageants, + at £5 10s. 9 12 6 + + 3½ for a double pair of + ditto, at £5 10s. 19 5 0 + + 1 pair of Point Engageants 30 0 0" + + --(B. M., Add. MSS. No. 5751.) + + "1720. Six pairs d'engageantes, dont quatre à un rang de dentelle, + et les autres paires à double rang, l'une de dentelle d'Angleterre à + raiseau et l'autre de dentelle à bride."--_Inv. de la Duchesse de + Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. + + "1723. Une paire d'engageantes à deux rangs de point plat à + raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ + + "1770. Six rangs d'engageantes de point à l'aiguille," with the same + of point d'Argentan and Angleterre, appear in the lace bills of + Madame du Barry. + + [497] "1725. Deux manteaux de bain et deux chemises, aussi de bain, garnis + aux manches de dentelle, l'une à bride, et l'autre à + raiseau."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ + + "1743. Ung Tour de baignoir de bazin garny de vieille dentelle. + + "Trois linges de baignoire garnis de dentelle."--_Inv. de la + Duchesse de Bourbon._ + + [498] Describing the duties of the "critic of each bright ruelle," Tickell + says:-- + + "Oft with varied art, his thoughts digress + On deeper themes--the documents of dress; + With nice discernment, to each style of face + Adapt a ribbon, or suggest a lace; + O'er Granby's cap bid loftier feathers float, + And add new bows to Devon's petticoat."--_Wreath of Fashion._ + + [499] In the spring of 1802, Mr. Holcroft, when in Paris, received a + polite note from a lady at whose house he visited, requesting to see + him. He went, and was informed by her maid the lady was in her warm + bath, but she would announce his arrival. She returned, and led him + to a kind of closet, where her mistress was up to her chin in water. + He knew the manners of the place, and was not surprised.--_Travels._ + + [500] Mercier also mentions, in his _Tableau de Paris_, la poupée de la + rue Saint-Honoré: "C'est de Paris que les profondes inventions en + modes donnent des loix à l'univers. La fameuse poupée, le mannequin + precieux, affublé des modes les plus nouvelles ... passe de Paris à + Londres tous les mois, et va de là répandre ses graces dans toute + l'Europe. Il va au Nord et du Midi, il pénètre à Constantinople et à + Petersbourg, et le pli qu'a donné une main françoise se répète chez + toute les nations, humbles observatrices du goût de la rue + Saint-Honoré." + + [501] The practice was much more ancient. M. Ladomie asserts that in the + Royal expenses for 1391, figure so many livres for a doll sent to + the Queen of England; in 1496 another, sent to the Queen of Spain; + and in 1571 a third, to the Duchess of Bavaria. + + Henry IV. writes in 1600, before his marriage to Marie de Médicis: + "Frontenac tells me that you desire patterns of our fashion in + dress. I send you, therefore, some model dolls."--Miss Freer's + _Henry IV._ + + It was also the custom of Venice, at the annual fair held in the + Piazza of St. Mark, on the day of the Ascension (a fair which dates + from 1180), to expose in the most conspicuous place of the fair a + rag doll, which served as a model for the fashions for the + year.--Michiel, _Origine delle Feste Veneziani._ + + [502] _Tableau de Paris._ 1782. + + [503] "The French nation are eminent for making a fine outside, when + perhaps they want necessaries, and indeed a gay shop and a mean + stock is like the Frenchman with his laced ruffles without a + shirt."--_The Complete English Tradesman._ Dan. Defoe. Lond., 1726. + Foote, in his Prologue to the _Trip to Paris_, says, "They sold me + some ruffles, and I found the shirts." + + [504] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._ 1710-1802. + + [505] Clement X. was in the habit of making presents of Italian lace, at + that time much prized in France, to M. de Sabière. "He sends + ruffles," said the irritated Frenchman who looked for something more + tangible, "to a man who never has a shirt." + + [506] "M. de Vendôme, at his marriage, was quite astonished at putting on + his clean shirt a-day, and fearfully embarrassed at having some + point lace on the one given him to put on at night. Indeed," + continues she, "you would hardly recognise the taste of the French. + The men are worse than the women. They wish their wives to take + snuff, play, and pay no more attention to their dress." The + exquisite cleanliness of Anne of Austria's court was at an end. + + [507] In the old Scotch song of Gilderoy, the famous highwayman, we have + an instance:-- + + "For Gilderoy, that luve of mine, + Gude faith, I freely bought + A wedding sark of Holland fine, + Wi' silken flowers wrought." + + And in an account quoted in the _Reliquary_, July, 1865, is the + charge on Feb. 16, of "six shillings for a cravat for hur + Vallentine." + + [508] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. C. de Saint-Albin, Archevesque de + Cambray._ (Son of the Regent.) 1764. Arch. Nat. M. M. 718. + + Louis XVI. had 59 pairs the year before his death: 28 of point, 21 + of Valenciennes, and 10 of Angleterre.--_Etat des Effets subsistant + et formant le fond de la garderobe du Roi au 1^{er} Janvier, 1792._ + Arch. Nat. K. 506, No. 30. + + [509] _Etat d'un Trousseau._ Description des Arts et Métiers. Paris, 1777. + + [510] "Deux aunes trois quarts d'Angleterre à bride pour deux paires de + manchettes tournantes, à 45 livres l'aune."--_Garderobe de S. A. S. + Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre._ 1738. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390. + + [511] _Ibid._ The laces for ruffles were of various kinds: point brodé, + point à bride, point à raiseau, point à bride à écaille, point + superfin, point brillant, Angleterre à bride à raiseau, and one pair + of point d'Argentan; Valenciennes pour manchettes de nuit à 42 + livres l'aune. + + The Duke's wardrobe accounts afford a good specimen of the + extravagance in the decoration of night attire at this period:-- + + 4 au. de point pour collet + et manchettes de la + chemise de nuit et garnir + la coëffe, à 130 ll. 520 ll. + + 3 au. ¾ dito pour jabot et + fourchettes de nuit et + garnir le devant de la + camisole, à 66 ll. 247 ll. 10s. + + Sept douze de point pour + plaquer sur les manches + de camisolle, à + 55 ll. 32 ll. 1s. + + Then for his nightcaps:-- + + 3 au. Toile fine pour + Coëffes de Nuit 27 ll. + + 4 au. Dentelles de Malines + pour les tours de + Coëffes, à 20 ll. 80 ll. + + 5 au. ½ Valenciennes, à + 46 ll. 253 ll. + + 52 au. dito petit point, + pour garnir les Tours, + à 5 ll. 5s. 273 ll. + + Pour avoir monté un bonnet + de nuit de point 1 l. 5s. + + 7 au. de campanne de + point pour chamarrer + la camisolle et le bonnet + de nuit, à 10 ll. 10s. 73 ll. 10s. + + The Marquise de Créquy speaks of a night-cap, "à grandes dentelles," + offered, with la robe de chambre, to the Dauphin, son of Louis XV., + by the people of the Duke de Grammont, on his having lost his way + hunting, and wandered to the Duke's château. + + [512] "Le Parisien qui n'a pas dix mille livres de rente n'a ordinairement + ni draps, ni lit, ni serviettes, ni chemises; mais il a une montre à + repetition, des glaces, des bas de soie, des dentelles."--_Tableau + de Paris._ + + [513] _Histoire de Paris._ + + [514] "Ordinairement un laquais de bon ton prend le nom de son maître, + quand il est avec d'autres laquais, il prend aussi ses moeurs, ses + gestes, ses manières.... Le laquais d'un seigneur porte la montre + d'or ciselée, des dentelles, des boucles à brillants," + etc.--_Tableau de Paris._ + + [515] _Amusemens des Eaux de Spa._ Amsterdam, 1751. + + "Les manches qu'à table on voit tâter la sauce."--_École des maris._ + + [516] The state liveries of Queen Victoria were most richly embroidered in + gold. They were made in the early part of George II.'s reign, since + which time they have been in use. In the year 1848, the servants + appeared at the royal balls in gold and ruffles of the richest gros + point de France, of the same epoch as their dresses. In 1849, the + lace no longer appeared--probably suppressed by order. Queen Anne, + who was a great martinet in trifles, had her servants marshalled + before her every day, that she might see if their ruffles were clean + and their periwigs dressed. + + [517] _Tableau de Paris._ + + [518] _Mémoires._ + + [519] "1723. Un couvrepied de toile blanche, picqure de Marseille, garni + autour d'un point en campane de demie aune de hauteur."--_Inv. d'A. + de Bavière, Princesse de Condé._ + + "1743. Un couvrepied de toile picquée, brodée or et soye, bordé de + trois côtés d'une grande dentelle d'Angleterre et du quatrième d'un + moyen dentelle d'Angleterre à bords. + + "Un autre, garni d'une grande et moyenne dentelle de point + d'Alençon. + + "Un autre, garni d'un grand point de demie aune de hauteur, brodé, + garni d'une campane en bas. + + "Un autre, 'point à bride,'" and many others.--_Inv. de la Duchesse + de Bourbon._ + + [520] "1704. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de dentelle, l'une à raiseau, + et l'autre à bride."--_Inv. de F. P. Loisel._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. + 11,459. + + "1723. Quatre taies d'oreiller, dont trois garnies de differentes + dentelles, et l'autre de Point."--_Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse + de Condé._ + + "1755. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de point d'Alençon."--_Inv. de + Mademoiselle de Charollais._ + + "1761. Trois taies d'oreiller de dentelle de point à brides."--_Inv. + de la Duchesse de Modène._ + + "1770. 7 au. 1/8 vraie Valenciennes pour garnir une taie d'oreiller, + à 60 ll. 427 10."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ + + "1707. 7 au. tournante d'Angleterre pour garnir des plottes + (pincushions) à 50 350 00."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ + + "1788. 12 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--_Ibid._ + + "6 trousses à peigne garnies de dentelle."--_Fourni pour Mgr. le + Dauphin._ Arch. Nat. + + "1792. 6 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--_Linge du çi-devant Roi. + Ibid._ + + [521] Souvenirs. + + [522] _Mémoires du Due de Luynes._ + + [523] 1786. _Courts of Europe._ + + [524] It may be amusing to the reader to learn the laces necessary for + l'État d'un Trousseau, in 1777, as given in the _Description des + Arts de Métiers_: "Une toilette de ville en dentelle; 2 jupons + garnis du même. Une coiffure avec tour de gorge, et le fichu plissé + de point d'Alençon. Un idem de point d'Angleterre. 1 id. de vraie + Valenciennes. Une coiffure dite 'Battant d'oeil' de Malines brodée, + pour le negligé. 6 fichus simples en mousseline à mille fleurs + garnis de dentelle pour le negligé. 12 grands bonnets garnis d'une + petite dentelle pour la nuit. 12 à deux rangs, plus beaux, pour le + jour, en cas d'indisposition. 12 serres-tête garnis d'une petite + dentelle pour la nuit. 2 taies d'oreiller garnies en dentelle. 12 + pièces d'estomach garnies d'une petite dentelle. 6 garnitures de + corset. 12 tours de gorge. 12 paires ce manchettes en dentelle. Une + toilette; les volants, au nombre de deux, sont en dentelle; ils ont + 5 aunes de tour. Dessus de pelotte, en toile garnie de dentelle, + etc. La Layette: 6 paires de manches pour la mère, garnies de + dentelle. 24 bonnets ronds de 3 ages en dentelle. 12 bavoirs de deux + ages, garnis en dentelle." The layette was furnished together with + the trousseau, because, says a fabricant, "les enfans se font plus + vite que les points." + + [525] "1787. Pour achat de 11 au. blonde noire, à 6 10 71 livres 10 + sous."--_Comptes de Monsieur Hergosse._ + + Bib. Nat. MSS., F. Fr. 11,447. + + [526] When the Empress Joséphine was at Frankfort-on-the-Maine, a masked + ball was given on the occasion. The ladies, says Mademoiselle + Avrillion, wore short dominoes with their faces covered with a mask, + "le tour des yeux garni d'une petite dentelle noire."--_Mém. de + Mademoiselle Avrillion, première femme de chambre de l'Impératrice._ + Paris, 1833. + + [527] A few extracts from Madame du Barry's lace accounts will furnish an + idea of her consumption of point d'Angleterre:-- + + Une toilette d'Angleterre + complette de 8823 livres. + + Une parure composée de + deux barbes, rayon et + fond, 6 rangs de manchettes, + 1 ½ au. de + ruban fait exprès, 1/3 + jabot pour le devant + de tour. Le tout d'Angleterre + superfin de 7000 ---- + + Un ajustemente d'Angleterre + complet de 3216 ---- + + Une garniture de peignoir + d'Angleterre de 2342 livres. + + Une garniture de fichu + d'Angleterre 388 ---- + + 8 au. d'Angleterre + pour tayes d'oreiller 240 + + 9 ½ au. dito pour + la tête 76 + + 14 au. pied dito pour + la tête 140 + + ---- 456 livres. + + [528] "Les dentelles les plus précieuses pour chaque saison."--(Duchesse + d'Abrantès.) + + [529] _Mémoires._ + + [530] _Mém. de la Princesse Palatine, veuve de Monsieur._ + + [531] "Cuisinières et Tourières." The joke formed the subject of some + clever verses from the Chevalier de Boufflers. + + [532] _Marli_, which takes its name from the village between Versailles + and St. Germain, is tulle dotted with small square spots. See page + 225. + + [533] The _barbe_, or lappet, of whatever form it be, has always, in all + ages and all countries, been a subject of etiquette. At the + interment of Queen Mary Tudor, December 14th, 1558, it is told how + the ladies in the first and second chariots were clad in mourning + apparel, according to their estates, "their barbes above their + chynes." "The 4 ladies on horseback in like manner had their barbes + on their chynes." In the third chariot, "the ladies had their barbes + under their chynes."--State Papers, Domestic, Eliz., vol. 32. + + See also the curious extract from Madame de Campan's _Mémoires_:-- + + "Madame de Noailles était remplie de vertus; mais l'etiquette était + pour elle une sorte d'atmosphère. Un jour je mis, sans le vouloir, + cette pauvre dame dans une angoisse terrible; la reine recevait je + ne sais plus qui. Tout était bien, au moins je le croyais. Je vois + tout-à-coup les yeux de Madame de Noailles attachés sur les miens, + et puis ses deux sourcils se levent jusqu'au haut de son front, + redescendent, remontent. L'agitation de la Comtesse croissait + toujours. La reine s'aperçut de tout ceci ... et me dit alors à + mi-voix: 'Detachez vos barbes, où la comtesse en mourra.' + L'etiquette du costume disait: 'Barbes pendentes.'" + + [534] Only in her last lace bill, 1773: + + "Une paire de barbes plattes longues de ¾ en blonde fine à fleurs + fond d'Alençon, 36. + + "Une blonde grande hauteur à bouquets détachés et à bordure riche. + + "6 au. de blonde de grande hauteur façon d'Alençon à coquilles à + mille poix, à 18. + + "Une paire de sabots de comtesse de deux rangs de tulle blonde à + festons, fond d'Alençon."--_Comptes de la Comtesse du Barry._ Bib. + Nat. F. Fr. 8157. + + Madame du Barry went to the greatest extravagance in lace + ajustements, barbes, collerettes, volants, quilles, coëffes, etc., + of Argentan, Angleterre, and point à l'aiguille. + + [535] The great fashion. The shoes were embroidered in diamonds, which + were scarcely worn on other parts of the dress. The back seam, + trimmed with emeralds, was called "venez-y-voir." + + [536] _Souvenirs du Marquis de Valfons_, 1710-1786. A "chat," tippet or + Palatine, so named after the mother of the Regent. + + [537] In the National Archives, formerly preserved with the _Livre Rouge_ + in the Armorie de Fer, is the _Gazette pour l'année_, 1782, of Marie + Antoinette, consisting of a list of the dresses furnished for the + Queen during the year, drawn up by the Comtesse d'Ossune, her dame + des atours. We find--grands habits, robes sur le grand panier, robes + sur le petit panier, with a pattern of the material affixed to each + entry, and the name of the couturière who made the dress. One + "Lévite" alone appears trimmed with blonde. There is also the + _Gazette_ of Madame Elizabeth, for 1792. + + [538] _Mémoires sur la Cour de Louis XVI._ + + [539] Among these were Sedan, Charleville, Mézières, Dieppe, Havre, + Pont-l'Évêque, Honfleur, Eu, and more than ten neighbouring + villages. The points of Aurillac, Bourgogne, and Murat disappeared; + and worst of all was the loss of the manufacture of Valenciennes. + Laces were also made in Champagne, at Troyes and Domchéry, etc. + + [540] 1649. Anne Gohory leaves all her personals to Madame de Sévigné + except her "plus beau mouchoir, le col de point fin de Flandres, et + une juppe de satin à fleurs fond vert, garnye de point fin d'or et + de soie." + + 1764. Geneviève Laval bequeaths to her sister "une garniture de + dentelle de raiseau à grandes dents, valant au moins quinze livres + l'aune."--Arch. de Nat. Y. 58. + + 1764. Anne Challus leaves her "belle garniture de dentelle en plein, + manchettes, tour de gorge, palatine et fond."--_Ibid_. + + 1764. Madame de Pompadour, in her will, says, "Je donne à mes deux + femmes de chambre tout ce qui concerne ma garderobe ... y compris + les dentelles." + + [541] _Mém. de Mademoiselle d'Avrillion_. + + [542] _Mémoires sur la Restauration_, par Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès. + + [543] _Ibid._ T. v., p. 48. + + [544] After the Peace of Amiens, 1801. + + [545] _Mémoires de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès._ + + [546] The revival first appeared in the towns which made the cheaper + laces: Caen, Bayeux, Mirecourt, Le Puy, Arras, etc. + + [547] "Fil de mulquinerie." + + [548] The name _point Colbert_, adopted in memory of the great Minister, + is applied to point laces in high relief. + + "La brode a toujours existé dans le point d'Alençon, aussi que dans + le point de Venise, seulement dans le point d'Alençon les reliefs + étaient moins énlevés. On ne mettait pas seulement un fil, mais + trois, cinq, huit ou dix fils, suivant l'épaisseur du relief que + l'on voulait obtenir puis, sur ce bourrage, se faisaient des points + bouclés très serrés de façon que la boucle fut presque sous les fils + formant le relief. C'est ce point que certains fabricants nomment + point Colbert."--Madame Despierres, _Histoire du Point + d'Alençon_.--Page 228, _post_. + + [549] In 1673, July, we read in the _Mercure_:--"On fait aussi des + dentelles à grandes brides, comme aux points de fil sans raiseau, et + des dentelles d'Espagne avec des brides claires sans picots; et l'on + fait aux nouveaux points de France des brides qui en sont remplies + d'un nombre infini." + + [550] _Mémoire concernant le Généralité d'Alençon_, dressé par M. de + Pommereu. 1698. Bib. Nat. MSS. Fonds Mortemart, No. 89. + + [551] Vilain, velin, vellum, from the parchment or vellum upon which it is + made. + + "La manufacture des points de France, appelés dans le pays + velin."--Savary, Vol. I., p. 108. + + "The expression is still used. When the author inquired at Alençon + the way to the house of Mr. R., a lace manufacturer, she was asked + in return if it was 'Celui qui fait le velin?'"--Mrs. Palliser. + + [552] In 1788 Arthur Young states the number of lace-makers at and about + Alençon to be from 8,000 to 9,000."--_Travels in France._ + + Madame Despierres, however, states that only 500 or 600 lace-workers + left Alençon on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, _as there + were not 4,000 lace-workers then in the town_. + + [553] He deducts 150,000 livres for the raw material, the Lille thread, + which was used at prices ranging from 60 to 1,600 livres per pound; + from 800 to 900 livres for good fine point; but Lille at that time + fabricated thread as high as 1,800 livres per pound. + + [554] In 1705 there were ten processes:--(1) Le dessin; (2) le picage; (3) + la trace; (4) les fonds; (5) la dentelure ou bride à picots; (6) la + brode; (7) l'enlevage; (8) l'éboulage; (9) le régalage; (10) + l'assemblage. + + Mrs. Palliser gives eighteen processes, and states that this number + is now reduced to twelve. The workwomen were:--(1) The piqueuse; (2) + traceuse; (3) réseleuse; (4) remplisseuse; (5) fondeuse; (6) + modeuse; (7) brodeuse; (8) ébouleuse; (9) régaleuse; (10) + assembleuse; (11) toucheuse; (12) brideuse; (13) boucleuse; (14) + gazeuse; (15) mignonneuse; (16) picoteuse; (17) affineuse; (18) + affiquese. + + [555] "The origin of this name Argentella is obscure, but it was presumed + to imply that the lace was worked in Genoa or Venice. There is, + however, no evidence of this type of lace being made there. Another + theory is that Argentella is an Italianised title for the more + delicate examples of point d'Argentan. The character of the lace and + the style of the floral patterns worked upon mesh grounds are those + of Alençon laces." In Specimen 1,373-74 in the Victoria and Albert + Museum collection the cordonnet is done in buttonhole stitches + closely cast over a thread which outlines various forms in the + design--a distinctive mark of point d'Alençon. And the hexagonal + wheel device in this example is often to be seen introduced into + flounces of point d'Alençon, of which other portions are composed of + the ordinary Alençon ground or réseau.--A. S. Cole. Fig. 88 and + Plate LVII. + + [556] _Dictionnaire du Citoyen_, Paris, 1761. + + [557] Madame Despierres writes on this head that entries of point + d'Alençon occur as early as 1663:-- + + "1663, 9 juin--contrat entre Georges Rouillon, Greffier, et Marie + Leroy.... + + "1900 liv. gagnées par son industrie à faire des ouvrages de point + d'Alençon." + + [558] _Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine, Princesse de Condé_. See chap. x. + note 468. + + [559] In the Inventory of the Duc de Penthièvre, 1738. See chap. xi. + + [560] "Une coiffure de point d'Alençon à raiseau."--_Inv. de decès de + Mademoiselle de Clermont_, 1741. Again, 1743, _Inv. de la Duchesse + de Bourbon_. Bib. Nat. + + [561] Among the objects of religious art exhibited in 1864 at the General + Assembly of the Catholics of Belgium at Malines was a "voile de + bénédiction," the handkerchief used to cover the ciborium, of point + d'Alençon, with figures of the Virgin, St. Catherine, St. Ursula, + and St. Barbara. It belonged to the Church of St. Christopher at + Charleroi. + + [562] Séez has now no records of its manufacture. + + [563] _Descr. du Dép. de l'Orne_. An IX. Publiée par ordre du ministre de + l'intérieur. + + [564] _Illustrated News_, March 22, 1856. + + [565] It only requires to compare Figs. 74, 75, 76, and 80, with Figs. 82 + and 83 to see the marked difference in the character of the lace. + + [566] "Sous Louis XIV. il y avaient de magnifiques rinceaux, guirlandes, + et cornes d'abondance d'où s'échappent de superbes fleurs. Sous + Louis XV. les fabricants changèrent encore leurs dessins pour + prendre les fleurs qui s'épanouent et s'ensoulent capricieusement + les unes aux autres. + + "Le style de Louis XVI. n'a rien de l'ampleur ni de l'élégance des + styles précédents. Les formes sont arrondies; des guirlandes et des + fleurettes sont la base des dessins de cette époque. + + "Sous la république et le premier empire, les dessins deviennent + raides" (Madame Despierres.) + + [567] This effect is produced by varying the application of the two + stitches used in making the flowers, the _toilé_, which forms the + close tissue, and the _grillé_, the more open part of the pattern. + The system has been adopted in France, Belgium, and England, but + with most success in France. + + "Li boen citean de Roem, + E la Jovante de Caem, + E de Falaise e d'Argentoen." + --_Roman de Rou._ + + [569] Henry founded a chapel at Argentan to St. Thomas of Canterbury. + + [570] "The average size of a diagonal, taken from angle to angle, in an + Alençon or so-called Argentan hexagon was about 1/6 of an inch, and + each side of the hexagon was about 1/10 of an inch. An idea of the + minuteness of the work can be formed from the fact that a side of a + hexagon would be overcast with some nine or ten buttonhole stitches" + (A. S. Cole). "So little is the beautiful workmanship of this ground + known or understood, that the author has seen priceless flowers of + Argentan relentlessly cut out and transferred to bobbin net, 'to get + rid of the ugly, old, coarse ground'" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869). + + [571] "Les trois sortes de brides comme champ sont exécutées dans ces deux + fabriques, et les points ont été et sont encore faits par les mêmes + procédés de fabrication, et avec les mêmes matières textiles," + writes Madame Despierres. Mrs. Palliser, on the other hand, was of + opinion that the two manufactures were distinct, "though some + lace-makers near Lignères-la-Doucelle worked for both + establishments. Alençon made the finest réseau; Argentan specially + excelled in the bride. The flowers of Argentan were bolder and + larger in pattern, in higher relief, heavier and coarser than those + of Alençon. The toilé was flatter and more compact. The workmanship + differed in character. On the clear bride ground this lace was more + effective than the minuter workmanship of Alençon; it more resembled + the Venetian. Indeed, so close is its resemblance that many of the + fine garnitures de robe, aprons, and tunics that have survived the + revolutionary storm would be assigned to Venice, did not their + pedigree prove them to be of the Argentan fabric" (Mrs. Palliser, + 1869). + + [572] Letter of September 19th, 1744. + + [573] "Burgoigne, the first part of the dress for the head next the + hair."--_Mundus Muliebris._ 1609. "Burgoigin, the part of the + head-dress that covers up the head."--_Ladies' Dictionary._ 1694. In + Farquhar's comedy of "Sir Harry Wildair," 1700, Parley, when asked + what he had been about, answers, "Sir, I was coming to Mademoiselle + Furbelow, the French milliner, for a new Burgundy for my lady's + head." + + [574] The offenders, manufacturers and workwomen, incurred considerable + fines. + + [575] Nov. 12th, 1745. + + [576] In 1765, under the name of Duponchel. + + [577] 1772. Un ajustement de point d'Argentan-- + + Les 6 rangs manchettes. + 1/3 pour devant de gorge. + 4 au. 1/3 festonné des + deux costés, le fichu et + une garniture de fichu + de nuit 2,500 livres. + 1 au ¾ ruban de point + d'Argentan, à 100 175 ---- + Une collerette de point + d'Argentan 360 ---- + --(_Comptes de Madame du Barry._) + + 1781. "Une nappe d'autel garnie d'une tres belle dentelle de point + d'Argentan."--_Inv. de l'Eglise de St. Gervais._ Arch. Nat. L. 654. + + 1789. "Item, un parement de robe consistant en garniture, deux + paires de manchettes, et fichu, le tout de point d'Argentan." (Dans + la garderobe de Madame.)--_Inv. de decès de Mgr. de Duc de Duras._ + Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440. + + [578] "Une coiffure bride à picot complete."--_Inv. de decès de + Mademoiselle de Clermont_, 1741. + + [579] These details on the manufacture of Argentan have been furnished + from the archives of Alençon through the kindness of M. Léon de la + Sicotière, the learned archæologist of the Department of the Orne + (Mrs. Palliser, 1869). + + [580] Embroidery has replaced this industry among the workers of the town + and the hand-spinning of hemp among those of the country. + + [581] _Légende du point d'Argentan_, M. Eugène de Lonlay. + + [582] _Nouveau Réglement Général sur toutes sortes de Marchandises et + Manufactures qui sont utiles et necessaires dans ce Royaume_, etc., + par M. le Marquis de la Gomberdière. Paris, 1634. In 8vo. + + [583] M. Fournier says that France was at this time tributary to Flanders + for "passemens de fil," very fine and delicately worked. Laffemas, + in his _Réglement Général pour dresser les Manufactures du Royaume_, + 1597, estimates the annual cost of these "passemens" of every sort, + silk stockings, etc., at 800,000 crowns. Montchrestien, at above a + million. + + [584] This was established by Colbert, and there they made, as well as at + Aurillac, the finest pillow lace in the style of point d'Angleterre. + This manufacture was encouraged by the King and the Court, and its + productions were among the choicest of the points de France. + + [585] Youngest son of the Comte d'Harcourt. + + [586] Vie de J.-Bap. Colbert. (Printed in the _Archives Curieuses_.) + + [587] "Livre commode ou les Adienes de la Ville de Paris" for 1692. + + [588] For the introduction of the gold point of Spain into France, see + SPAIN. The manufacture of gold lace in Paris was, however, prior to + Colbert. + + "1732, un bord de point d'Espagne d'or de Paris, à fonds de + réseau."--_Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre._ Arch. + Nat. K. K. 390-1. + + [589] In _Statistique de la France_, 1800, the finest silk lace is said to + be made at Fontenay, Puisieux, Morges, and Louvres-en-Parisis. The + coarse and common kinds at Montmorency, Villiers-le-Bel, Sarcelles, + Écouen, Saint-Brice, Groslay, Gisors, Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, + Etrepagny, etc. Peuchet adds: "Il s'y fait dans Paris et ses + environs une grande quantité de dentelles noires dont il se fait des + expéditions considérables." It was this same black silk lace which + raised to so high a reputation the fabrics of Chantilly. + + [590] _Inv. de decés de la Duchesse de Modène._ 1761. + + [591] _Inv. de decés du Duc de Duras._ 1789. + + [592] "Une fraise à deux rangs de blonde tres fine, grande hauteur, 120 l. + + "Une paire de sabots de la même blonde, 84 l. + + "Un fichu en colonette la fraise garnie à deux rangs d'une tres + belle blonde fond d'Alençon, 120 l. + + "Un pouff bordé d'un plissé de blonde tournante fond d'Alençon, à + bouquets tres fins et des bouillons de même blonde." This wonderful + coiffure being finished with "Un beau panache de quatre plumes + couleurs impériales, 108 l." + + [593] See preceding note. + + [594] "The bourgoin is formed of white, stiffly-starched muslin, covering + a paste-board shape, and rises to a great height above the head, + frequently diminishing in size towards the top, where it finishes in + a circular form. Two long lappets hang from either side towards the + back, composed often of the finest lace. The bourgoins throughout + Normandy are not alike."--_Mrs. Stothard's Tour in Normandy._ + + [595] This must have included Honfleur and other surrounding localities. + + By a paper on the lace trade (_Mém. concernant le Commerce des + Dentelles_, 1704. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 14,294), we find that the + making of "dentelles de bas prix," employed at Rouen, Dieppe, Le + Havre, and throughout the Pays de Caux, the Bailliage of Caen, at + Lyons, Le Puy, and other parts of France, one quarter of the + population of all classes and ages from six to seventy years. These + laces were all made of Haarlem thread. See HOLLAND. + + "The lace-makers of Havre," writes Peuchet, "work both in black and + white points, from 5 sous to 30 francs the ell. They are all + employed by a certain number of dealers, who purchase the produce of + their pillows. Much is transported to foreign countries, even to the + East Indies, the Southern Seas, and the islands of America." + + [596] _Dictionnaire Géographique._ T. Corneille. 1707. + + [597] _Gravures de Modes._ Arch. Nat. M., 815-23. + + [598] "1683. Deux housses de toille piquée avec dentelle du Havre deux + camisolles de pareille toille et de dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. fait + après le decedz de Monseigneur Colbert._ Bib. Nat. MSS. Suite de + Mortemart, 34. + + [599] "1651. Un tour d'autel de dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. des meubles de + la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jesus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. F. + 8621. + + "1681. Une chemisette de toile de Marseille picquée garnye de + dentelle du Havre."--_Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau de Sourdis, veuve de + François de Simiane._ Arch. Nat. M. M. 802. + + [600] "Les ouvriers n'étant apparemment rappelés par aucune possession + dans cette ville, lorsqu'elle fut rétablie, ils s'y sont établis et + ont transmis leur travail à la postérité."--Peuchet. + + [601] Point de Dieppe appears among the already-quoted lace boxes of 1688. + + [602] _Mémoires pour servir à l'Histoire de la Ville de Dieppe_, composés + en l'année 1761, par Michel-Claude Gurbert. P. 99. + + [603] _Mémoires Chronologiques pour servir à l'Histoire de Dieppe_, par M. + Desmarquets. 1785. + + [604] _Notices sur Dieppe, Arques_, etc., par P. J. Feret. 1824. + + [605] Peuchet, of Dieppe, says: "On ne fait pas la dentelle en roulant les + fuseaux sur le coussin, mais en l'y jetant." + + [606] _Almanach de Dieppe pour 1847._ + + The Author has to express her thanks to Soeur Hubert, of the École + d'Apprentissage de Dentelle, and M. A. Morin, Librarian at Dieppe, + for their communications. + + [607] Arch. Nat. X. 10,086. + + [608] "The silk came from Nankin by way of London or the East, the black + silk called 'grenadine' was dyed and prepared at Lyons, the thread + was from Haarlem."--Roland de la Platière. + + [609] Page 213. + + [610] Letter from Edgar McCulloch, Esq., Guernsey. + + [611] Blondes appear also to have been made at Le Mans:-- + + "Cette manufacture qui etoit autrefois entretenue à l'hôpital du + Mans, lui rapportoit un benefice de 4,000 à 5,000 fr. Elle est bien + tombée par la dispersion des anciennes soeurs + hospitalières."--_Stat. du Dép. de la Sarthe_, par le Citoyen L.-M. + Auvray. An X. + + [612] The handkerchief of "Paris net" mentioned by Goldsmith. + + [613] In the Dép. du Nord, by Jean-Ph. Briatte. "Its fall was owing to the + bad faith of imitators, who substituted a single thread of bad + quality for the double twisted thread of the country."--Dieudonné, + _Statistique de Dép. du Nord_. + + In the _Mercure Galant_ for June, 1687, we find the ladies wear + cornettes à la jardinière "de Marly." + + [614] _L'Industrie Française depuis la Révolution de Février et + l'Exposition de 1848_, par M. A. Audiganne. + + M. Aubry thus divides the lace-makers of Normandy:-- + + Department of Calvados-- + Arrondissement of Caen 25,000 + Arr. of Bayeux 15,000 + Arr. of Pont-l'Evêque, Falaise,* and Lisieux 10,000 + Departments of La Manche and Seine-Inférieure 10,000 + ------ + 60,000 + + The women earn from 50 sous to 25 sous a day, an improvement on the + wages of the last century, which, in the time of Arthur Young, + seldom amounted to 24 sous. + + Their products are estimated at from 8 to 10 millions of francs + (£320,000 to £400,000). + + * "Falaise, dentelles façon de Dieppe."--Peuchet. + + [615] He had run away with the rich heiress of Coadelan. + + [616] _Chants populaires de la Bretagne_, par Th. Hersart de la + Villemarqué. + + [617] The bringing home of the wedding dress is an event of solemn + importance. The family alone are admitted to see it, and each of + them sprinkles the orange blossoms with which it is trimmed with + holy water placed at the foot of the bed whereon the dress is laid, + and offers up a prayer for the future welfare of the wearer. + + [618] French Hainault, French Flanders and Cambrésis (the present Dép. du + Nord), with Artois, were conquests of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV., + confirmed to France by the treaties of Aix-la-Chapelle (1668) and + Nimeguen (1678). + + [619] Photographed in the _Album d'Archéologie Religieuse_. It is supposed + to have been made towards the end of the seventeenth century. + + [620] Founded 1630. + + [621] "1772. 15 aunes 3-16^{mes} jabot haut de vraie Valencienne, 3,706 + livres 17 sous"; and many other similar entries. + + [622] "5/8 Bâtarde dito à bordure, à 60 ll., 37 ll. 10 s."--_Comptes de + Madame du Barry._ + + [623] _Statistique du Dép. du Nord_, par M. Dieudonné, Préfet en 1804. + + [624] "Among the various fabrics having the same process of manufacture, + there is not one which produces exactly the same style of lace. The + same pattern, with the same material, whether executed in Belgium, + Saxony, Lille, Arras, Mirecourt, or Le Puy, will always bear the + stamp of the place where it is made. It has never been possible to + transfer any kind of manufacture from one city to another without + there being a marked difference between the productions."--Aubry. + + "After the French Revolution, when so many lace-makers fled to + Belgium, Alost, Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, Menin, and Courtrai became the + centres of this industry, and the lace produced in each town has a + distinctive feature in the ground. That made in Ghent is + square-meshed, the bobbins being twisted two and a half times. At + Ypres, which makes a better quality of Valenciennes, the ground is + also square-meshed, but the bobbins are twisted four times. In + Courtrai and Menin the grounds are twisted three and a half times, + and in Bruges, where the ground has a circular mesh, the bobbins are + twisted three times." + + [625] In the already quoted _Etat d'un Trousseau_, 1771, among the + necessary articles are enumerated: "Une coëffure, tour de gorge et + le fichu plissé de vraie Valencienne." The trimming of one of Madame + du Barry's pillowcases cost 487 fr.; her lappets, 1,030. The ruffles + of the Duchesse de Modène and Mademoiselle de Charollais are valued + at 200 livres the pair. Du Barry, more extravagant, gives 770 for + hers. + + [626] "2 barbes et rayon de vraie valencienne; 3 au. ¾ collet grande + hauteur; 4 au. grand jabot; le tout de la même main, de 2,400 + livres."--_Comptes de Madame du Barry._ 1770. + + [627] Arthur Young, in 1788, says of Valenciennes: "Laces of 30 to 40 + lines' breadth for gentlemen's ruffles is from 160 to 216 livres (£9 + 9s.) an ell. The quantity for a lady's headdress from 1,000 to + 24,000 livres. The women gain from 20 to 30 sous a day. 3,600 + persons are employed at Valenciennes, and are an object of 450,000 + livres, of which the flax is not more than 1/30. The thread costs + from 24 to 700 livres the pound." + + [628] The "barbes pleines" consisted of a pair of lappets from 3 to 5 + inches wide each, and half an ell (20 inches) long, with a double + pattern of sprigged flowers and rounded at the ends. A narrow lace 1 + ½ ell long, called the _Papillon_, with the bande or passe, and the + fond de bonnet, completed the suit. + + [629] The fault of the old Valenciennes lace is its colour, never of a + clear white, but inclining to a reddish cast. + + [630] "Les dentelières avaient adopté un par-dessus de calamande rayée, un + bonniquet de toile fine plissé à petits canons. Une médaille + d'argent, pendue au cou par un petit liseré noir, complétait leur + costume, qui est arrivé jusqu'à nous; car nous l'avons vu, il n'y a + pas trente ans."--_Hist. de Lille_, par V. Derode. Paris et Lille, + 1848. + + [631] _Mémoires sur l'Intendance de Flandre._--MS. Bib. de Lille. + + [632] Period of the peace of Utrecht when Lille, which had been retaken by + Prince Eugène, was again restored to France. + + [633] _Histoire Populaire de Lille._ Henri Brunet. Lille, 1848; and + _Histoire de Lille._ V. Derode. + + [634] _Report of the Commissioners for 1851._ + + [635] As late as 1761 Lille was considered as "foreign" with respect to + France, and her laces made to pay duty according to the tariff of + 1664. + + In 1708 (31st of July) we have an Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy, + relative to the seizure of seventeen cartons of lace belonging to + one "Mathieu, marchand à l'Isle." Mathieu, in defence, pretends that + "les dentelles avoient esté fabriquées à Haluin (near Lille), terre + de la domination de Sa Majesté."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau. + + [636] See FLANDERS (WEST), _treille_. + + [637] In 1789, thread was 192 francs the kilogramme. + + [638] Describing her trousseau, every article of which was trimmed with + Angleterre, Malines, or Valenciennes, she adds: "A cette époque + (1800), on ignorait même l'existence du tulle, les seules dentelles + communes que l'on connût étaient les dentelles de Lille et d'Arras, + qui n'étaient portées que par les femmes les plus + ordinaires."--_Mém. de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès._ T. iii. + Certainly the laces of Lille and Arras never appear in the + inventories of the "grandes dames" of the last century. + + [639] Dieudonné. + + [640] Peuchet states much "fausse Valenciennes, très rapprochée de la + vraie," to have been fabricated in the hospital at Lille, in which + institution there were, in 1723, 700 lace-workers. + + [641] A piece of Lille lace contains from 10 to 12 ells. + + [642] "L'Abbaye du Vivier, etablie dans la ville d'Arras," Poëme par le + Père Dom Martin du Buisson, in _Mémoires et Pièces pour servir a + l'Histoire de la Ville d'Arras_.--Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, + 8,936. + + [643] Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, 8,936. + + [644] We find in the Colbert Correspondence (1669), the directors of the + General hospital at Arras had enticed lace-workers of point de + France, with a view to establish the manufacture in their hospital, + but the jealousy of the other cities threatening to overthrow their + commerce, they wrote to Colbert for protection. + + [645] Gt. Ward. Acc. Geo. I. 1714-15 (P. R. O.), and Acc. of John, Duke of + Montagu, master of the Great Wardrobe, touching the expenses of the + funeral of Queen Anne and the coronation of George I. (P.R.O.) + + In 1761 an Act was passed against its being counterfeited, and a + vendor of "Orrice lace" (counterfeit, we suppose) forfeits her + goods. + + [646] _Statistique des Gens de Lettres._ 1808. Herbin. T. ii. + + [647] A museum of lace has been established at Bailleul. + + [648] In 1788, Bailleul, Cassel, and the district of Hazebrouck, had 1351 + lace-makers. In 1802 the number had diminished; but it has since + gradually increased. In 1830 there were 2,500. In 1851 there were + already 8,000, dispersed over twenty communes. + + [649] Haute-Loire, Cantal, Puy-de-Dôme, and Loire. + + [650] 1640. + + [651] 1833 and 1848. + + [652] By Médecis. + + [653] They represent to the king that the laces of the "diocèse du Puy, du + Vélay et de l'Auvergne, dont il se faisait un commerce très + considérable dans les pays étrangers, par les ports de Bordeaux, La + Rochelle et Nantes," ought not to pay the import duties held by the + "cinq grosses fermes."--_Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy_, 6 + August, 1707. Arch. Nat. Coll. Rond. They ended by obtaining a duty + of five sous per lb., instead of the 50 livres paid by Flanders and + England, or the ten livres by the laces of Comté, Liège, and + Lorraine. + + [654] 1715 and 1716. + + [655] See MILAN. + + [656] Roland de la Platière. + + [657] Three-fourths were consumed in Europe in time of peace:--Sardinia + took 120,000 francs, purchased by the merchants of Turin, once a + year, and then distributed through the country: Florence and Spain, + each 200,000; Guyenne exported by the merchants of Bordeaux 200,000; + 500,000 went to the Spanish Indies. The rest was sold in France by + means of colporteurs.--Peuchet. + + [658] In Auvergne lace has preserved its ancient names of "passement" and + "pointes," the latter applied especially to needle-made lace. It has + always retained its celebrity for passements or guipures made in + bands. The simplicity of life in the mountains has doubtless been a + factor in the unbroken continuity of the lace-trade. + + [659] Le Puy in recent years has named some of its coarse patterns + "guipure de Cluny," after the museum in Paris--a purely fanciful + name. + + [660] Savinière d'Alquie. + + [661] Savary. Point d'Aurillac is mentioned in the _Révolte des + Passemens_. + + [662] _Histoire du point d' Alençon_, Madame Despierres. + + [663] "Voile de toile d'argent, garni de grandes dentelles d'or et argent + fin, donné en 1711 pour envelopper le chef de S. + Gaudence."--_Inventaire du Monastère des Bénédictines de St. + Aligre._ + + [664] In the convents are constantly noted down "point d'Espagne d'or et + argent fin," while in the cathedral of Clermont the chapter + contented itself with "dentelles d'or et argent faux." + + [665] "1773. 6 au. de grande entoilage de belle blonde à poix." + + [666] "16 au. entoilage à mouches à 11 l., 1761."--_Comptes de Madame du + Barry._ + + [667] "7 au. de tulle pour hausser les manchettes, à 9 l., 63 l."--1770. + _Cptes. de Madame du Barry._ + + [668] _Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy._ + + [669] In an old geography we find, "Tulle, Tuille three hundred years + ago." + + The word Tule or Tuly occurs in an English inventory of 1315, and + again, in "Sir Gawayn and the Green Knight"; but in both cases the + word seems not to indicate a stuff but rather a locality, probably + Toulouse.--Francisque Michel. + + In Skelton's _Garland of Lawrell_, we find, "A skein of tewly silk"; + which his commentator, the Rev. A. Dyce, considers to be "dyed of a + red colour." + + [670] As early as 1615 there appears to have been a traffic with Italy in + laces, the painter Claude Lorraine being taken to Italy in that year + by his uncle, a carrier and dealer in laces. + + [671] Neufchâteau. + + [672] The trader who purchases the lace is called "peussemotier." + + [673] The Lorraine laces could only enter France by the bureau of + Chaumont, nor could they leave the country without a formal permit + delivered at Monthureux-le-Sec.--Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau. + + [674] In a catalogue of the collection of objects of religious art, + exhibited at Mechlin in 1864, we find noticed, "Dentelle pour + rochet, point de Nancy," from the church of St. Charles at Antwerp, + together with various "voiles de bénédiction," laces for rochets and + altar-cloths, of "point de Paris." + + [675] The _Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Vosges_, by Citoyen Desgoulles, + An X, says: "Mirecourt is celebrated for its lace fabrics. There are + twenty lace merchants; but the workers are not attached to any + particular house. They buy their own thread, make the lace, and + bring it to the merchants of Mirecourt to purchase. The women follow + this occupation when not engaged in field work; but they only earn + from 25 to 40 centimes a day. Before the Revolution, 7/8 of the + coarse lace was exported to Germany towards Swabia. Of the fine + qualities, France consumed 2/3. The remainder went to the colonies." + + [676] So are those of Courseulles (Calvados). + + [677] Savary. Sedan was ceded to Louis XIII. in 1642. + + [678] "Eidem pro 6 divi[=t] Sedan et Itali[=e] colaris opere scis[=s] et + pro 62 purles opere acuo pro 6 pa[=r] mani[=c] lintea[=r] eisdem, + £116 6s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., ix. to xi. P. R. O. + + [679] "Eidem pro 6 divi[=t] Pultenarian Sedan de opere scis[=s] colaris et + pro 72 purles divi[=t] opere acuo pro mani[=c] lintea[=r] eisdem, + £106 16s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., xi. to xii. + + [680] In 1700 there were several lace manufacturers at Charleville, the + principal of whom was named Vigoureux.--_Hist. de Charleville._ + Charleville, 1854. + + [681] Savary. Ed. 1726. + + [682] _Description de la France._ Ed. 1752. + + [683] Savary. + + [684] John Roberts, of Burgundy, eight years in England, "a knitter of + knotted wool." + + Peter de Grue, Burgundian, "knitter of cauls and sleeves." + + Callys de Hove, "maker of lace," and Jane his wife, born in + Burgundy.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. 84. P.R.O. + + [685] M. Joseph Garnier, the learned Archiviste of Dijon, informed Mrs. + Palliser that "les archives de l'hospice Sainte-Anne n'ont conservé + aucune trace de la manufacture de dentelles qui y fut établie. Tout + ce qu'on sait, c'est qu'elle était sous la direction d'un sieur + Helling, et qu'on y fabriquait le point d'Alençon." + + [686] _Descr. du Dép. de la Vienne_, par le Citoyen Cochon. An X. + + [687] "Ce n'est pas une grande chose que la manufacture de points qui est + établie dans l'hôpital de Bourdeaux."--Savary. Edit. 1726. + + [688] Table of the Number of Lace-workers in France in 1851. (From M. + Aubry.) + + Manufacture of Chantilly + and Alençon:-- + + Orne } + Seine-et-Oise } + Eure } 12,500 + Seine-et-Marne } + Oise } + + Manufacture of Lille, Arras, + and Bailleul:-- + + Nord } + Pas-de-Calais } 18,000 + + Manufacture of Normandy, + Caen, and Bayeux:-- + + Calvados } + Manche } 55,000 + Seine-Inférieure } + + Manufacture of Lorraine, + Mirecourt:-- + + Vosges } + Meurthe } 22,000 + + Manufacture of Auvergne, + Le Puy:-- + + Cantal } + Haute Loire } 130,000 + Loire } + Puy-de-Dôme } + + Application-work at Paris} + and Lace-makers } 2,500 + ------- + Total 240,000 + ------- + + In his _Report on the Universal Exhibition of 1867_, M. Aubry + estimates the number at 200,000--their average wages from 1 to 1½ + francs a day of ten hours' labour; some earn as much as 3½ francs. + Almost all work at home, combining the work of the pillow with their + agricultural and household occupations. Lace schools are being + founded throughout the northern lace departments of France, and + prizes and every kind of encouragement given to the pupils by the + Empress, as well as by public authorities and private individuals. + + [689] In the Census of 1571, giving the names of all strangers in the city + of London, we find mention but of one Dutchman, Richard Thomas, "a + worker of billament lace." + + [690] In 1689 appears an "Arrest du Roi qui ordonne l'exécution d'une + sentence du maître de poste de Rouen, portant confiscation des + dentelles venant d'Amsterdam."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau. + + [691] 1685. + + [692] We have frequent mention of dentelle à la reine previous to its + introduction into Holland. + + 1619. "Plus une aulne ung tiers de dentelle à la + reyne."--_Trésorerie de Madame, Soeur de Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234. + + 1678. "Les dames mettent ordinairement deux cornettes de Point à la + Reyne ou de soie écrue, rarement de Point de France, parce que le + point clair sied mieux au visage."--_Mercure Galant._ + + 1683. "Deux Aubes de toille demie holande garnis de point à la + Reyne."--_Inv. fait apres le decedz de Mgr. Colbert._ Bib. Nat. MSS. + Suite de Mortemart, 34. + + [693] C. Weisse. _History of the French Protestant Refugees from the Edict + of Nantes._ Edinburgh, 1854. + + [694] Grandson of Simon Châtelain. See Chap. VI. + + [695] In the paper already referred to (see NORMANDY) on the lace trade, + in 1704, it is stated the Flemish laces called "dentelles de haut + prix" are made of Lille, Mons and Mechlin thread, sent to bleach at + Haarlem, "as they know not how to bleach them elsewhere." The + "dentelles de bas prix" of Normandy and other parts of France being + made entirely of the cheaper thread of Haarlem itself, an Act, then + just passed, excluding the Haarlem thread, would, if carried out, + annihilate this branch of industry in France.--_Commerce des + Dentelles de Fil._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 14,294. + + [696] And. Yarranton. 1677. + + [697] "Flax is improved by age. The saying was, 'Wool may be kept to dust, + flax to silk.' I have seen flax twenty years old as fine as a + hair."--_Ibid._ + + [698] _Commerce de la Hollande._ 1768. + + [699] _Edinburgh Amusement._ + + [700] _Six Weeks in the Court and Country of France._ 1691. + + [701] Treillis d'Allemagne is early mentioned in the French inventories:-- + + 1543. "Pour une aulne deux tiers trillist d'Allemagne."--_Argenterie + de la Reine_ (_Eléonore d'Autriche_). Arch. Nat. K. K. 104. + + 1557. "Pour une aulne de treilliz noir d'Allemagne pour garnir la + robbe de damars noir ou il y a de la bizette."--_Comptes de + l'Argentier du Roi_ (_Henry II._). Arch. Nat. K. K. 106. + + [702] "At a meeting of the Society of Polite Arts, premiums were given to + a specimen of a new invention imitating Dresden work. It is done + with such success as to imitate all the various stitches of which + Dresden work is composed, with such ingenuity as to surpass the + finest performance with the needle. This specimen, consisting of a + cap and a piece for a long apron, the apron, valued by the + inventress at £2 2s., was declared by the judges worth + £56."--_Annual Register._ 1762. + + [703] "Smash go the glasses, aboard pours the wine on circling laces, + Dresden aprons, silvered silks, and rich brocades." And again, "Your + points of Spain, your ruffles of Dresden."--_Fool of Quality._ 1766. + + [704] _Caledonian Mercury._ 1760. + + [705] Letter from Koestritz. 1863. + + [706] In 1713. + + [707] Weisse. + + [708] Dated Oct. 29, 1685. + + [709] Anderson. + + [710] Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau. + + [711] "Commissions and Privileges granted by Charles I., Landgrave of + Hesse, to the French Protestants, dated Cassel, Dec. 12, 1685." + + [712] Peuchet. + + [713] Anderson. + + [714] _La France Protestante_, par M. M. Haag. Paris 1846-59. + + [715] "Item. Dix carrez de tapisserye a poinctz de Hongrye d'or, d'argent + et soye de differends patrons."--1632. + + _Inv. après le decès du Maréchal de Marillac._ Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. + 11,424. + + [716] Hungary was so styled in the seventeenth century. In a _Relation of + the most famous Kingdoms and Common Weales through the World_, + London, 1608, we find "Hungerland." + + [717] "City Madam." Massinger. + + [718] _Pictures of German Life in the Fifteenth, Sixteenth, and + Seventeenth Centuries_, by Gustaf Freytag. + + [719] _Merveilleux Amusements des Bains de Bade._ Londres, 1739. + + [720] Bishop of Salisbury. "Letters." 1748-9. + + [721] _Modelbuch in Kupfen gemacht._ Nürnberg, 1601. + + [722] Poppenreuth is about a German mile from Nuremberg. + + [723] "Austria."--_Report of the International Exhibition of 1862._ + + [724] As quoted in Lefébure's _Embroidery and Lace_. + + [725] Haag. _La France Protestante._ + + [726] The Neufchâtel trade extended through the Jura range from the valley + of Lake Joux (Vaud) to Porentruy, near Bâle. + + [727] _Statistique de la Suisse._ Picot, de Genève. 1819. + + [728] A curious pattern-book has been sent to us, belonging to the + Antiquarian Society of Zurich, through the kindness of its + president, Dr. Ferd. Keller. It contains specimens of a variety of + narrow braids and edgings of a kind of knotted work, but only a few + open-work edgings that could be called lace. + + [729] On her marriage, 1515. + + [730] "1619. Sept. 11. Paid for a lace, 63 rixd. 11 skillings. + + "1620. Oct. 11. Paid to a female lace-worker, 28 rixd. + + "Nov. 4. Paid 10 rixd. to a female lace-worker who received her + dismissal. + + "Nov. 11. Paid 71 specie dollars to a lace-seller for lace for the + use of the children. + + "Paid 33 specie dollars and 18 skill. Lubec money, to the same man + for lace and cambric. + + "1625. May 19. Paid 21 rixd. for lace. + + "Dec. 20. Paid 25 specie dollars 15 skill. Lubec money, for taffetas + and lace." + + [731] 1639. + + [732] _Rawert's Report upon the Industry in the Kingdom of Denmark._ 1848. + + [733] "The Great Recess." + + [734] Two-thirds of a yard. + + [735] Dated 1643. + + [736] "Tönder lace, fine and middling, made in the districts of Lygum + Kloster, keeps all the peasant girls employed. Thereof is exported + to the German markets and the Baltic, it is supposed, for more than + 100,000 rixdollars (£11,110), and the fine thread must be had from + the Netherlands, and sometimes costs 100 rixdollars per + lb."--_Pontoppidan. Economical Balance._ 1759. + + [737] "In the Victoria and Albert Museum collection, Denmark is + represented by a few skilful embroideries done on and with fine + linen, muslin and suchlike, which are somewhat similar in appearance + to lace fabrics of Mechlin design."--(A. S. Cole.) + + [738] "The lace fabric in North Sleswick in 1840 was divided into two + districts--that of Tönder and Lygum Kloster on the western coasts, + and that of Haderslaben and Apenraade on the east. The quality of + the lace from these last localities is so bad that no Copenhagen + dealers will have it in their shops."--_Report of the Royal + Sleswick-Holstein Government._ 1840. + + [739] Mr. Jens Wulff, an eminent lace-dealer, Knight of the Danebrog, who + has made great exertions to revive the lace industry in Denmark. + + [740] Tönder lace was celebrated for its durability, the best flax or silk + thread only being used. + + [741] "A lace-maker earns from 3½d. to 4½d. per day of sixteen + hours."--_Rawert's Report._ 1848. + + [742] The Tönder lace-traders enjoy the privilege of offering their wares + for sale all over Denmark without a license (concession), a + privilege extended to no other industry. + + [743] The early perfection of Bridget herself in this employment, if we + may credit the chronicle of the Abbess Margaretha, 1440-46, may be + ascribed to a miraculous origin. + + When, at the age of twelve, she was employed at her knitted + lace-work, a fear came over her that she should not finish her work + creditably to herself, and in her anxiety she raised her heart + above. As her aunt came into the chamber she beheld an unknown + maiden sitting opposite to her niece, and aiding her in her task; + she vanished immediately, and when the aunt asked Bridget who had + helped her she know nothing about it, and assured her relation she + had seen no one. + + All were astonished at the fineness and perfection of the work, and + kept the lace as of miraculous origin. + + [744] _Wadstena Past and Present_ (Förr och Nu). + + [745] The letter is dated March 20th, 1544. + + [746] In the detailed account of the trousseau furnished to his daughter, + there is no mention of lace; but the author of _One Year in Sweden_ + has seen the body of his little granddaughter, the Princess + Isabella, daughter of John III., as it lies in the vault of + Strengnäs, the child's dress and shoes literally covered with gold + and silver lace of a Gothic pattern, fresh and untarnished as though + made yesterday. + + [747] In the Victoria and Albert Museum there is a collection of Norwegian + cut-work of the eighteenth century. + + [748] Weber. _Bilberbuch._ + + Leipzig, 1746. _Handbok for unga Fruntimmer_, by Ekenmark. + Stockholm, 1826-28. + + [749] Some are twice the width of Fig. 117. + + [750] For this information, with a collection of specimens, the author has + to thank Madame Petre of Gefle. + + [751] The Russian bobbins are interesting by reason of their archaic + simplicity. Lacking any trace of decoration, whether suggested by + sentimental fancy or artistic taste, they are purely utilitarian, + mere sticks of wood, more or less straight and smooth, and six or + seven inches long. + + [752] A depôt has been opened in London, where Russian laces and + embroidery of all kinds are shown. + + [753] _Rot. Parl. 37 Edw. III._ Printed. P. 278, Col. 2, No. 26. + + [754] See her monument in Westminster Abbey.--Sandford's _Genealogical + History_. + + [755] "Blanche, Duchess of Lancaster, wife of John of Gaunt, wears a + quilted silk cap with a three-pointed border of broad lace network." + (Sandford. St. Paul's monument, after Dugdale.) "Elizabeth, Duchess + of Exeter, died 1425 (Sandford, p. 259), wore also a caul of network + with a needlework edging." + + [756] In the Statute 2 Rich. II. = 1378, merchant strangers are allowed to + sell in gross and in retail "gold wire or silver wire" and other + such small ware. Neither in this nor in the Treaty 13 Rich. II. = + 1390, between England, the Count of Flanders, and "les bonnes Gentz + des Trois bonnes villes de Flandres Gand, Brugges et Ipre" (see + Rymer), is there any mention of lace, which, even if fabricated, was + of too little importance as an article of commerce to deserve + mention save as other "small wares." + + [757] Pins not yet being in common use, any lace would be called "work of + the needle." + + [758] 3 Edw. IV., cap. iv. + + [759] "1463. John Barett bequeaths to 'My Lady Walgrave, my musk ball of + gold with [=p]le and lace. + + "'Item, to John Eden, my o gr. of tawny silk with poynts of needle + work--_opus punctatum_.'"--_Bury Wills and Inventories._ + + [760] Bib. Harl. 2,320. + + [761] Such as "Lace Bascon, Lace endented, Lace bordred on both syde, yn o + syde, pykke Lace bordred, Lace Condrak, Lace Dawns, Lace Piol, Lace + covert, Lace coverte doble, Lace compon coverte, Lace maskel, Lace + cheyne brode, Las Cheveron, Lace Oundé, Grene dorge, Lace for + Hattys," etc. + + Another MS. of directions for making these same named laces is in + the possession of the Vicar of Ipsden, Oxfordshire, and has been + examined by the author through the kindness of Mr. W. Twopenny. + + [762] Bows, loops. + + [763] Additional MSS. No. 6,293, small quarto, ff. 38. It contains + instructions for making various laces, letters and "edges," such as + "diamond stiff, fly, cross, long S, figure of 8, spider, hart," + etc., and at the end:-- + + "Heare may you see in Letters New + The Love of her that honoreth you. + My love is this, + Presented is + The Love I owe + I cannot showe, + The fall of Kings + Confusion bringes + Not the vallyou but the Love + When this you see + Remember me." + + In the British Museum (Lansdowne Roll, No. 22) is a third MS. on the + same subject, a parchment roll written about the time of Charles I., + containing rules and directions for executing various kinds of + sampler-work, to be wrought in letters, etc., by means of coloured + strings or bows. It has a sort of title in these words, "To know the + use of this Booke it is two folkes worke," meaning that the works + are to be done by two persons. + + Probably of this work was the "Brede (braid) of divers colours, + woven by Four Ladies," the subject of some verses by Waller + beginning:-- + + "Twice twenty slender Virgins' Fingers twine + This curious web, where all their fancies shine. + As Nature them, so they this shade have wrought, + Soft as their Hands, and various as their Thoughts," etc. + + [764] 1 Rich. III. = 1483. Act XII. + + [765] _Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York,_ and _Wardrobe Accounts + of King Edward IV._, by Sir H. Nicolas. + + [766] 1 Rich. III. renews 3 Edw. IV. for ten years, and that of Richard is + continued by 19 Henry VII. for twenty years more. + + [767] 4 Hen. VII. = 1488-9. + + [768] P.R.O. The same Warrant contains an order to deliver "for the use + and wearing of our right dere daughter the Lady Mary," together with + a black velvet gown, scarlet petticoat, etc., "a nounce of lace for + her kyrtel," and a thousand "pynnes." + + [769] In the list of the late King Henry's plate, made 1543, we have some + curious entries, in which the term lace appears:-- + + "Item, oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnation Roobe + knitt with a knott in the lefte shoulder and bare hedid with her + heere rowlid up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde. + + "Item, oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnac[=o]n + garment after the Inglishe tyer and bareheddid with her heare rowled + up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde."--P. R. O. + + [770] 19 Hen. VII. = 1504. + + [771] Sir H. Nicolas. + + [772] Statute 1 Hen. VIII. = 1509-10. An act agaynst wearing of costly + Apparell, and again, 6 Hen. VIII. = 1514-15. + + "Gard, to trim with lace."--Cotgrave. + + "No less than crimson velvet did him grace, + All garded and regarded with gold lace."--Samuel Rowlands, _A Pair + of Spy-Knaves._ + + "I do forsake these 'broidered gardes, + And all the fashions new."--_The Queen in King Cambisis_, circ. + 1615. + + [774] Under forfeiture of the same shirt and a fine of 40 shillings. + + [775] 7 Hen. VIII. = 1515-16.--"Thacte of Apparell." + + [776] 24 Hen. VIII. = 1532-33.--"An Act for Reformation of excess in + Apparel." + + [777] In 1539. + + [778] Lisle. _Corr._ Vol. i., p. 64. P.R.O. Lord Lisle was Governor of + Calais, whence the letter is dated. + + Honor. Lylle to Madame Antoinette + de Sevenges, à Dunkerke. + + "Madame,--Je ne vous eusse vollu envoier ceste demi dousaine pour + changier nestoit que tous celles que menvoiez dernierement sont trop + larges, et une dousaine estoit de cestuy ouvrage dont jestis + esmerveillé, veu que je vous avois escript que menvoissiez de + louvrage aux lozenges, vous priant que la demy dousaine que + menvoierez pour ceste demy dousaine soient du dict ouvrage de + lozenge, et quil soient plus estroictes mesmement par devant + nonobstant que lexemple est au contraire." + + [779] Among the marriage clothes of Mary Neville, who espoused George + Clifton, 1536, is:-- + + "A neyge of perle, £1 4s. 0d." + + In the pictures, at Hampton Court Palace, of Queens Mary and + Elizabeth, and another of Francis II., all as children, their ruffs + are edged with a very narrow purl. + + [780] 1538. Lisle. _Corr._ (P.R.O.) + + [781] See Note 776. + + [782] Privy Purse Ex. Hen. VIII. 1529-32. Sir H. Nicolas. + + [783] Father of Lord Burleigh. There are other similar entries:--"8 pieces + of yellow lace, 9s. 4d." Also, "green silk lace." + + 1632, "green silk lace" occurs again, as trimming a pair of French + shoes in a "Bill of shoes for Sir Francis Windebank and + family."--State Papers Dom. Vol. 221. P.R.O. + + [784] "Inv. of Hen. VIII. and 4 Edw. VI." Harl. MS. 1419, A and B. + + [785] 38 Hen. VIII. = 1546. Rymer's _Foedera_. Vol. xv., p. 105. + + [786] Harl. MS. 1419. _Passim._ + + [787] See Holbein's portraits. + + [788] "The old cut-work cope."--Beaumont and Fletcher. _The Spanish + Curate._ + + [789] We read, too, of "3 kyrcheys y^t was given to the kyrk wash," large + as a woman's hood worn at a funeral, highly ornamented with the + needle by pious women, and given to be sold for the good of the + impoverished church, for which the churchwardens of St. Michael, + Spurr Gate, York, received the sum of 5s. + + [790] 1 and 2 Ph. and Mary. + + [791] "White work" appears also among Queen Elizabeth's New Year's + Gifts:-- + + "1578. Lady Ratcliff. A veil of white work, with spangles and small + bone lace of silver. A swete bag, being of changeable silk, with a + small bone lace of gold. + + "1589. Lady Shandowes (Chandos). A cushion cloth of lawne wrought + with whitework of branches and trees, edged with bone work, wrought + with crowns."--Nichols' _Royal Progresses_. + + [792] Roll of New Year's Gifts. 1556. + + [793] Stowe, _Queen Mary_. An. 1554. + + [794] It is not known when brass wire pins were first made in England, but + it must have been before 1543, in which year a Statute was passed + (35 Hen. VIII.) entitled, "An Act for the True Making of Pynnes," in + which the price is fixed not to exceed 6s. 8d. per 1,000. By an Act + of Rich. III. the importation of pins was prohibited. The early pins + were of boxwood, bone, bronze or silver. In 1347 (_Liber Garderobæ_, + 12-16 Edw. III. P. R. O.) we have a charge for 12,000 pins for the + trousseau of Joanna, daughter of Edward III., betrothed to Peter the + Cruel. The young Princess probably escaped a miserable married life + by her decease of the black death at Bordeaux when on her way to + Castille. + + The annual import of pins in the time of Elizabeth amounted to + £3,297.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. viii. P. R. O. + + In Eliz., Q. of Bohemia's Expenses, we find: "Dix mille espingles + dans un papier, 4 florins."--Ger. Corr. No. 41. P. R. O. + + "In Holland pillow-lace is called Pinwork lace--Gespelde-werkte + kant."--_Sewell's Eng. and Dutch Dict._ + + [795] An elderly woman informed the author that she recollects in her + youth, when she learned to make Honiton point of an ancient teacher + of the parish, bone pins were still employed. They were in use until + a recent period, and renounced only on account of their costliness. + The author purchased of a Devonshire lace-maker one, bearing date + 1829, with the name tatooed into the bone, the gift of some + long-forgotten youth to her grandmother. These bone or wood bobbins, + some ornamented with glass beads--the more ancient with silver let + in--are the calendar of a lace-worker's life. One records her first + appearance at a neighbouring fair or May meeting; a second was the + first gift of her good man, long cold in his grave; a third the + first prize brought home by her child from the dame school, and + proudly added to her mother's cushion: one and all, as she sits + weaving her threads, are memories of bygone days of hopes and fears, + of joys and sorrows; and, though many a sigh it calls forth, she + cherishes her well-worn cushion as an old friend, and works away, + her present labour lightened by the memory of the past. + + [796] Surtees' _Wills and Inv._ + + "Hearing bone lace value 5s. 4d." is mentioned "in y^e shoppe of + John Johnston, of Darlington, merchant." + + [797] 1578. "James Backhouse, of Kirby in Lonsdale. Bobbin lace, 6s. per + ounce." + + 1597. "John Farbeck, of Durham. In y^e Shoppe, 4 oz. & ½ of Bobbing + lace, 6s. 4d."--_Ibid._ + + "Bobbin" lace is noted in the Royal Inventories, but not so + frequently as "bone." + + "Laqueo ... fact. super lez bobbins."--G. W. A. Eliz., 27 and 28. P. + R. O. + + "Three peces teniar bobbin."--_Ibid._ Car. I., vi. + + "One pece of bobin lace, 2s.," occurs frequently in the accounts of + Lord Compton, afterwards Earl of Northampton, Master of the Wardrobe + of Prince Charles.--Roll, 1622-23, Extraordinary Expenses, and + others. P. R. O. + + [798] In the Ward. Acc. of his brother, Prince Henry, 1607, and the + Warrant to the G. Ward., on his sister the Princess Elizabeth's + marriage, 1612-13, "bone" lace is in endless quantities. + + Bobbin lace appears invariably distinguished from bone lace, both + being mentioned in the same inventory. The author one day showed an + old Vandyke Italian edging to a Devonshire lace-worker, asking her + if she could make it. "I think I can," she answered; "it is bobbin + lace." On inquiring the distinction, she said: "Bobbin lace is made + with a coarse thread, and in its manufacture we use long bobbins + instead of the boxwood of ordinary size, which would not hold the + necessary quantity of this thread, though sufficient for the quality + used in making Honiton flowers and Trolly lace."--Mrs. Palliser. + + [799] Randle Holme, in his enumeration of terms used in arts, gives: "Bone + lace, wrought with pegs." + + The materials used for bobbins in Italy have been already mentioned. + + [800] Lord Compton. "Extraordinary Expenses of the Wardrobe of K. Charles, + before and after he was King."--Roll, 1622-26. P. R. O. + + [801] An. 1635. + + [802] A miniature of Old Hilliard, now in the possession of his Grace the + Duke of Hamilton. + + [803] 1614. + + [804] Massinger. 1612. + + [805] Beaumont and Fletcher. + + [806] "The things you follow and make songs on now, should be sent to + knit, or sit down to bobbins or bone-lace."--_Tatler._ + + [807] "We destroy the symmetry of the human figure, and foolishly combine + to call off the eye from great and real beauties to childish gewgaw + ribbands and bone-lace."--_Spectator._ + + [808] It is used in Walpole's _New British Traveller_. 1784. + + [809] Haliwell gives compas as "a circle; Anglo-Norman." + + [810] Partlet, a small ruff or neck-band. + + [811] "Eidem pro 4 pec' de opera Rhet' bon' florat' in forma oper' sciss' + ad 24s., £4 16s."--G. W. A. Eliz., 43 to 44. + + 1578-79. New Year's Gifts. Baroness Shandowes. "A vail of black + network flourished with flowers of silver and a small + bone-lace."--Nichols. + + [812] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth Century. + + [813] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth century. + + [814] Crown lace--so called from the pattern being worked on a succession + of crowns sometimes intermixed with acorns or roses. A relic of this + lace may still be found in the "faux galon" sold by the German Jews, + for the decoration of fancy dresses and theatrical purposes. It is + frequently mentioned. We have:-- + + "12 yards laquei, called crown lace of black gold and silk."--G. W. + A. Eliz. 4 & 5. + + "18 yards crown lace purled with one wreath on one side."--_Ibid._ 5 + & 6. + + [815] "11 virgis laquei Byas."--_Ibid._ 29 & 30. + + [816] Hemming and edging 8 yards of ruff of cambric with white lace called + hollow lace, and various entries of Spanish lace, Fringe, Black + chain, Diamond, knotted, hollow, and others, are scattered through + the earlier Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth. + + The accounts of the Keepers of the Great Wardrobe, which we shall + have occasion so frequently to cite, are now deposited in the Public + Record Office, to which place they were transferred from the Audit + Office in 1859. They extend from the 1 Elizabeth = 1558 to Oct. 10, + 1781, and comprise 160 volumes, written in Latin until 1730-31, when + the account appears in English, and is continued so to the end. + 1748-49 is the last account in which the items are given. + + [817] Eliz. 30 & 31. Billament lace occurs both in the "shoppes" and + inventories of the day. Among the list of foreigners settled in the + City of London in 1571 (State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol 84. P.R.O.), + are: William Crutall, "useth the craft of making byllament lace"; + Rich. Thomas, Dutch, "a worker of Billament lace." + + In 1573 a country gentleman, by his will deposited in the + Prerogative Court of Canterbury (Brayley and Britton's _Graphic + Illustrations_), bequeaths: "To my son Tyble my short gown faced + with wolf skin and laid with Billements lace." + + In John Johnston's shop we have: "3 doz. of velvet Billemunt lace, + 12s." In that of John Farbeck, 9 yards of the same. (Surtees' _Wills + and Inv._) Widow Chapman of Newcastle's inventory, 1533, contains: + "One old cassock of broad cloth, with billements lace, 10s." + (_Ibid._) + + [818] 95 dozen rich silver double diamond and cross laces occur also in + the _Extraordinary Expenses for Prince Charles's Journey to Spain_. + 1623.--P. R. O. + + [819] 1571. "In y^e Great Shop, 8 peces of 'waborne' lace, 16d."--_Mr. + John Wilkinson's Goods, of Newcastle, Merchant._ + + 1580. "100 Gross and a half of 'waborne' lace."--_Inv. of Cuthbert + Ellyson._ + + 1549. John de Tronch, Abbot of Kilmainham Priory, is condemned to + pay 100 marks fine for detaining 2 lbs. of Waborne thread, value + 3s., and other articles, the property of W. Sacy. + + [820] G. W. A. Eliz. 16 & 17. + + [821] "Eidem pro 6 manuterg' de camerick operat' cum serico nigra + trustich," etc.--G. W. A. Eliz. 41 & 42, and, again, 44. + + [822] 1572. Inventory of Thomas Swinburne of Ealingham, Esq. + + "His Apparell." + + "A wellwett cote layd with silver las. + + "A satten doullet layd with silver las. + + "A payr of wellwett sleeves layd with silver las."--Surtees' + _Wills and Inv._ + + [823] New Year's Gifts. Lady Mary Sidney. "A smock and two pillow beres of + cameryck wrought with black-work and edged with a broad bone-lace of + black sylke." + + [824] "Eidem pro 6 caules alb' nodat opat' cu' le chainestich et ligat' + cu' tape de filo soror, ad 14s., 4l. 4s."--G. W. A. Eliz. 41 & 42. + + Also in the last year of her reign (1602) we find:-- + + "Six fine net caules flourished with chaine stitch with sister's + thread."--Wardrobe Accounts. B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751. + + [825] In 1583. + + [826] G. W. A. Eliz. 38 & 39. We have it also on ruffs. + + "Eidem pro 2 sutes de lez ruffs bon' de la lawne operat' in le laid + work et edged cum ten' bon' ad 70s. per pec', 7l."--G. W. A. Eliz. + 43 & 44. + + [827] G. W. A. Eliz., last year of her reign. Again-- + + 1600. "Drawing and working with black silk drawne worke, five smocks + of fine holland cloth."--B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751. + + "These Holland smocks as white as snow, + And gorgets brave with drawn-work wrought." + --_Pleasant Quippes for Upstart Newfangled Gentlewomen._ 1596. + + [828] As early as 1485 we have in the inventory of St. Mary-at-Hill, "An + altar cloth of diaper, garnished with 3 blue Kays (St. Peter's) at + each end." All the church linen seems to have been embroidered in + blue thread, and so appears to have been the smocks and other linen. + + Jenkin, speaking of his sweetheart, says: "She gave me a shirt + collar, wrought over with no counterfeit stuff." + + GEORGE: "What! was it gold?" + + JENKIN: "Nay, 'twas better than gold." + + GEORGE: "What was it?" + + JENKIN: "Right Coventry blue."--_Pinner of Wakefield._ 1599. + + "It was a simple napkin wrought with Coventry blue."--_Laugh and Lie + Downe, or the Worlde's Folly._ 1605. + + "Though he perfume the table with rose cake or appropriate bone-lace + and Coventry blue," writes Stephens in his _Satirical Essays_. 1615. + + In the inventory of Mary Stuart, taken at Fotheringay, after her + death, we have: "Furniture for a bedd of black velvet, garnished + with Bleue lace. In the care of Rallay, _alias_ Beauregard." + + This blue lace is still to be found on baptismal garments which have + been preserved in old families on the Continent and in England. + + [829] The widow of the famous clothier, called Jack of Newbury, is + described when a bride as "led to church between two boys with bride + laces and rosemary tied about their sleeves." + + [830] "Tawdry. As Dr. Henshaw and Skinner suppose, of knots and ribbons, + bought at a fair held in St. Audrey's Chapel; fine, without grace or + elegance."--_Bailey's Dict._ 1764. + + Southey (_Omniana._ Vol. i., p. 8) says:-- + + "It was formerly the custom in England for women to wear a necklace + of fine silk called Tawdry lace, from St. Audrey. + + "She had in her youth been used to wear carcanets of jewels, and + being afterwards tormented with violent pains in the neck, was wont + to say, that Heaven, in his mercy, had thus punished her for her + love of vanity. She died of a swelling in her neck. Audry (the same + as Ethelrede) was daughter of King Anna, who founded the Abbey of + Ely." + + Spenser in the _Shepherd's Calender_, has:-- + + "Bind your fillets faste + And gird in your waste + For more fineness with a tawdry lace;" + + and in the _Faithful Shepherdess_ of Beaumont and Fletcher, + Amaryllis speaks of + + "The primrose chaplet, tawdry lace and ring." + + [831] A passage already quoted in _Much Ado about Nothing_ shows us that, + in Shakespeare's time, the term "to lace" was generally used as a + verb, denoting to decorate with trimming. Margaret, the tiring + woman, describes the Duchess of Milan's gown as of "Cloth o' gold, + and cuts, and laced with silver." + + [832] _Much Ado about Nothing._ + + [833] New Year's Gifts of Mrs. Wyngfield, Lady Southwell, and Lady + Willoughby.--_Nichols' Royal Progresses._ + + [834] "Mrs. Edmonds. A cushion cloth of lawn cutwork like leaves, and a + few owes of silver."--New Year's Gifts. + + "Eidem pro le edginge unius panni vocat' a quishion cloth de lawne + alb' operat' cum spaces de opere sciss' et pro viii. virg' de Laquei + alb' lat' operat' sup' oss' 33s. 4d."--G. W. A. Eliz. 31 & 32. + + [835] "Mistress Twist, the Court laundress. Four toothcloths of Holland + wrought with black silk and edged with bone lace of silver and black + silk."--New Year's Gifts. + + [836] "Lady Ratcliffe. A night coyf of white cutwork flourished with + silver and set with spangles."--_Ibid._ + + [837] "Cropson. A night coyf of cameryk cutwork and spangells, with a + forehead cloth, and a night border of cutwork with bone + lace."--_Ibid._ 1577-8. + + [838] "Eidem pro emenda[=c] lavacione et starching unius par' corpor' + (stays) et manic' de lawne alb' bon' deorsum operat' in diversis + locis cum spaciis Lat' de operibus Italic' scis[=s] 20_sh._"--G. W. + A. Eliz. 26-27. + + [839] _Ibid._ + + [840] _Ibid._ 28-29. + + [841] G. W. A. Eliz. 29-30. + + [842] _Ibid._ 35-36. + + [843] _Ibid._ 43-44. "A round kyrtle of cutwork in lawne."--B. M. Add. + MSS. No. 5751. + + [844] "One yard of double Italian cutwork a quarter of a yard wide, 55s. + 4d."--G. W. A. Eliz. 33 and 34. + + "Una virga de opere sciss' lat' de factura Italica, 26s. + 8d."--_Ibid._ 29 & 30. + + [845] "For one yard of double Flanders cutwork worked with Italian purl, + 33s. 4d."--_Ibid._ 33 & 34. + + [846] "3 suits of good lawn cutwork ruffs edged with good bone lace + 'operat' super oss',' at 70s., 10l. 10s."--_Ibid._ 43 & 44. + + [847] "7 virg' Tenie lat' operis acui, ad 6s. 8d., 46s. 8d."--_Ibid._ + 37-38. + + [848] "Eidem pro 2 pectoral' de ope' sciss' fact' de Italic' et Flaundr' + purle, ad 46s."--_Ibid._ 42 & 43. + + "Eidem pro 1 virg' de Tenie de opere acuo cum le purle Italic' de + cons' ope' acuo 20s."--G. W. A. Eliz. 40 & 41. + + [849] Eliz. 44 = 1603. + + [850] "3 yards broad needlework lace of Italy, with the purls of similar + work, at 50s. per yard, 8l. 15s."--_Ibid._ 41-42. + + Bone lace varies in price from 40s. the dozen to 11s. 6d. the yard. + Needle-made lace from 6s. 8d. to 50s.--G. W. A. _Passim._ + + [851] Lace is always called "lacqueus" in the Gt. Wardrobe Accounts up to + 1595-6, after which it is rendered "tænia." Both terms seem, like + our "lace" to have been equally applied to silk passements. + + "Galons de soye, de l'espèce qui peuvent être dénominés par le terme + latin de 'tæniola.'" + + "Laqueus, enlassements de diverses couleurs, galons imitation de ces + chaînes qui les Romains faisoient peindre, dorer et argenter, pour + les rendre plus supportables aux illustres malheureux que le sort + avoit réduit à les porter."--_Traité des Marques Nationales._ Paris, + 1739. + + [852] "Fine white or nun's thread is made by the Augustine nuns of Crema," + writes Skippin, 1631. + + From the Great Wardrobe Accounts the price appears to have been half + a crown an ounce. + + "Eidem pro 2 li. 4 unc.' fili Sororis, ad 2s. 6d. per unciam, 4l. + 10s."--Eliz. 34 & 35. + + [853] State Papers Domestic. Eliz. Vol. 84. The sum total amounts to + 4,287. + + [854] See BURGUNDY. "The naturalized French residing in this country are + Normans of the district of Caux, a wicked sort of French, worse than + all the English," writes, in 1553, Stephen Porlin, a French + ecclesiastic, in his _Description of England and Scotland_. + + [855] 1559. Oct. 20. Proclamation against excess of apparel.--State + Papers Dom. Eliz. Vol. vii. + + 1566. Feb. 12.--_Ibid._ Vol. xxxix. + + 1579. Star Chamber on apparel. + + [856] State Papers Dom. Eliz. Vol. xxiii. No. 8. + + [857] _Ibid._ Vol. xlvii. No. 49. + + [858] _Ibid._ Vol. viii. No. 31. + + [859] The value of thread imported amounts to £13,671 13s. 4d. + + [860] Walsingham writes: In opening a coffer of the Queen of Scots, he + found certain heades which so pleased certain ladies of his + acquaintance, he had taken the liberty to detain a couple. + + [861] "A mantel of lawn cutwork wrought throughout with cutwork of + 'pomegranettes, roses, honeysuckles, cum crowns.'" + + "A doublet of lawn cutwork worked with 'lez rolls and true loves,' + &c."--G. W. A. Eliz. Last year. + + [862] New Year's Gifts. By the Lady Shandowes. 1577-8. + + [863] Marquis of Northampton. + + [864] Lady Carew. "A cushyn of fine cameryk edged with bone lace of Venice + sylver." + + [865] "Laqueus de serico Jeano"--(Genoa). G. W. A. Eliz. 30-1. + + [866] 1571. _Revels at Court._ Cunningham. + + Some curious entries occur on the occasion of a Masque called "The + Prince" given at court in 1600:-- + + "For the tooth-drawer: + + "To loope leace for his doublet and cassacke, 8s. + + "For leace for the corne-cutters suite, 7s. + + "For green leace for the tinkers suite, 2s. + + "For the mouse-trapp-man: + + "6 yards of copper leace to leace _is_ cloake, at 1s. 8d., 10s. + + "The Prophet merely wears fringe, 2 Ruffes and cuffes, 3s. 10d." + + The subject of the Masque seems lost to posterity. + + [867] Lady Chandos, jun. "A cushyn cloth of lawne, wrought with white + worke of branches and trees edged with white bone worke wrought with + crownes."--New Year's Gifts. 1577-8. + + [868] 1572. _Revels at Court._ + + [869] In the possession of Mrs. Evans of Wimbledon. + + [870] Sir Gawine Carew. "A smock of cameryke wrought with black work and + edged with bone lace of gold." + + Lady Souche. "A smock of cameryke, the ruffs and collar edged with a + bone lace of gold." + + The Lady Marquis of Winchester. "A smock of cameryke wrought with + tanny silk and black, the ruffs and collar edged with a bone lace of + silver."--New Year's Gifts. 1578-9. + + [871] "A bearing cloth," for the Squire's child, is mentioned in the + _Winter's Tale_. + + [872] Many of these Christening robes of lace and point are preserved as + heirlooms in old families; some are of old guipure, others of + Flanders lace, and later of Valenciennes, or needle-point. The bib + formed of guipure padded, with tiny mittens of lace, were also + furnished to complete the suit. + + [873] In 1584-5 Queen Elizabeth sends a most wonderful apron to be washed + and starched, of cambric, edged with lace of gold, silver, and + in-grain carnation silk, "operat' super oss'," with "pearl buttons + pro ornatione dict' apron."--G. W. A. Eliz. 26 & 27. + + "A handkerchief she had, + All wrought with silke and gold, + Which she, to stay her trickling tears, + Before her eyes did hold." + --"Ballad of George Barwell." + + [875] New Year's Gift of Lady Radcliffe. 1561. + + [876] New Year's Gift of Lady St. Lawrence. + + [877] Surtees' Wills and Inv. "Though the luxury of the court was + excessive, the nation at large were frugal in their habits. Our + Argentine of Dorset was called 'Argentine the Golden,' in + consequence of his buckles, tags, and laces being of gold. Such an + extravagance being looked on as a marvel in the remote hamlets of + the southern counties." + + [878] Hence ruffles, diminutive of ruffs. "Ruff cuffs" they are called in + the G. W. A. of James I., 11 & 12. + + [879] Stowe's Chron. + + [880] Endless are the entries in the Gt. W. Acc. for washing, starching + and mending. The court laundress can have had no sinecure. We find + "le Jup de lawne operat' cum stellis et aristis tritici Anglice + wheateares" (Eliz. 42 & 43), sent to be washed, starched, etc. A + network vail "sciss' totum desuper cum ragged staves." (Leicester's + device. _Ibid._ 29 & 30.) A diploid' (doublet) of cut-work + flourished "cum auro et spangles" (_Ibid._), and more wonderful + still, in the last year of her reign she has washed and starched a + toga "cum traine de la lawne operat' in auro et argento in forma + caudarum pavorum," the identical dress in which she is portrayed in + one of her portraits. + + [881] "Eidem pro un ruff bon pynned sup' le wier Franc' c[=u] rhet' aur' + spangled, 70s."--Eliz. 42 & 43. + + [882] Gt. W. Acc. Eliz. 33 & 34. + + [883] "B.: Where's my ruff and poker?" + + "R.: There's your ruff, shall I poke it?" + + "B.: So poke my ruff now."--Old Play by P. Dekker. 1602. + + Autolycus, among his wares, has "poking-sticks of steel." + + "Poked her rebatoes and surveryed her steel."--_Law Tricks._ 1608. + + [884] Middleton's Comedy of _Blurt, Master Constable_. + + [885] _Or, the World's Folly._ 1605. + + [886] Stowe. + + [887] _Ibid._ + + [888] Therefore she wore "chin" ruffs. + + "Eidem pro 2 sutes de lez chinne ruffs edged cu' arg., 10s."--Eliz. + 42 & 43. + + [889] Ben Jonson. _Every Man Out of His Humour._ 1599. + + [890] Lady Cromwell. "Three sutes of ruffs of white cutwork edged with a + passamayne of white." + + Lady Mary Se'm'. "3 ruffs of lawne cutwork of flowers." + + [891] "They are either clogged with gold, silver, or silk laces of stately + price, wrought all over with needleworke, speckeled and sparkeled + here and there with the sunne, the moone, the starres and many other + antiques strange to beholde. Some are wrought with open worke donne + to the midst of the ruffe, and further some with close worke, some + with purled lace so closed and other gewgawes so pestered, as the + ruff is the leest parte of itself."--Stubbe's Description of the + Cut-work Ruff. + + [892] _Anatomie of Abuses._ 1583. + + [893] "Eidem pro 3 dozin laquei fact' de crine brayded cum lez rising + puffs de crine, ad 36s. le dd., £5 8s."--Eliz. 31 & 32. + + The entry occurs frequently. + + In _Ibid._ 87 & 38 is a charge "pro 4 pirrywigges de crine," at 16s. + 8d. each. + + [894] In the G. W. A. of the last year of her reign, Elizabeth had a + variety of devices in false hair. We have:-- + + "Eidem pro 200 invencionibus factis decrine in forma lez lowpes et + tuftes," at 6d. each; the like number in the form of leaves at 12d.; + 12 in form of "lez Peramides," at 3s. 4d.; 24 of Globes, at 12d., + with hair by the yard, made in lowpes, "crispat' curiose fact'," + curle rotund', and other wonderful "inventions." + + [895] "Your trebble-quadruple Dædalian ruffes, nor your stiffe necked + Rebatoes that have more arches for pride to row under than can stand + under five London Bridges."--_The Gul's Hornebooke_, by T. Deckar. + London, 1609. + + [896] Beaumont and Fletcher. _Nice Valour._ + + [897] _Ibid._ _The Blind Lady._ 1661. + + [898] 1641. + + [899] Called by James I. "the King of Preachers." Ob. 1621 + + [900] In the _Dumb Knight_, 1608, a woman, speaking of her ruff, says:-- + + "This is but shallow. I have a ruff is a quarter deep, measured by + the yard." + + [901] See the portraits in the National Portrait Gallery of Sir Dudley and + Lady Carleton, by Cornelius Janssens, of the Queen of Bohemia, by + Mirevelt, and of the Countess of Pembroke, by Mark Geerards. In + Westminster Abbey, the effigies of Queen Elizabeth and Mary Queen of + Scots, on their tombs. + + [902] _Every Man Out of His Humour_, 1599. + + Again, in his _Silent Woman_, he says:-- + + "She must have that + Rich gown for such a great day, a new one + For the next, a richer for the third; have the chamber filled with + A succession of grooms, footmen, ushers, + And other messengers; besides embroiderers, + Jewellers, tire-women, semsters, feather men, + Perfumers; whilst she feels not how the land + Drops away, nor the acres melt; nor foresees + The change, when the mercer has your woods + For her velvets; never weighs what her pride + Costs, Sir." + + [903] "Second Acc. of Sir John Villiers, 1617-8." P. R. O. + + "150 yards of fyne bone lace for six extraordinary ruff's provided + against his Majesty's marriage, at 9s., 67s. 10d."--Extraordinary + Expenses. 1622-6. P. R. O. + + [904] State Papers Dom., Jac. I. Vol. iii., No. 89. P. R. O. + + [905] Jasper Mayne. 1670. + + [906] "Mistris Turner, the first inventresse of yellow starch, was + executed in a cobweb lawn ruff of that color at Tyburn, and with her + I believe that yellow starch, which so much disfigured our nation + and rendred them so ridiculous and fantastic, will receive its + funerall."--_Howel's Letters._ 1645. + + [907] State Papers Dom., James I. Vol. cxiii. No. 18. + + [908] We read that in 1574 the Venetian ladies dyed their lace the colour + of saffron. The fashion may therefore be derived from them. + + "He is of England, by his yellow band."--_Notes from Black Fryers._ + Henry Fitzgeffery. 1617. + + "Now ten or twenty eggs will hardly suffice to starch one of these + yellow bandes."--Barnaby Rich. _The Irish_ _Hubbub, or the English + Hue and Cry._ 1622. + + Killigrew, in his play called _The Parson's Wedding_, published in + 1664, alludes to the time when "yellow starch and wheel verdingales + were cried down"; and in _The Blind Lady_, a play printed in 1661, a + serving-man says to the maid: "You had once better opinion of me, + though now you wash every day your best handkerchief in yellow + starch." + + [909] _La Courtisane à la Mode, selon l'Usage de la Cour de ce Temps._ + Paris, 1625. + + [910] Carlo, in _Every Man Out of His Humour._ 1599. + + [911] "Eidem pro 29 virg' le opere sciss' bon' Italic', ad 35s., £68 + 5s."--Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 5 & 6. + + [912] _The New Inn._ + + [913] _Advice to Sir George Villiers._ + + [914] See _Parliamentary History of England._ + + Sir Giles was proceeded against as "a monopolist and patentee," and + sentenced to be degraded and banished for life. + + [915] Speech in Parliament. _Rushout Papers._ Vol. xi., p. 916. + + [916] "The office or grant for sealing bone lace was quashed by the King's + proclamation, 1639, dated from his manour of York."--_Verney + Papers._ + + [917] B. M. _Bib. Lands._ 172, No. 59. + + [918] 1604. Sept. 27. Patent to Ric. Dike and others to make Venice gold + and silver thread for 21 years.--State Papers Dom., Jas. I. Vol. ix. + 48. + + 1604. Dec. 30. Lease of the customs on gold and silver + thread.--_Ibid._ Vol. x. + + 1605. Feb. 2. The same. _Ibid._ Vol. xii. + + 1611. May 21. Patent to Ric. Dike renewed.--_Ibid._ Vol. lxiii. 9. + + In the same year (June 30) we find a re-grant to the Earl of Suffolk + of the moiety of all seizures of Venice gold and silver formerly + granted in the fifth year of the King.--_Ibid._ Vol. lxiv. 66. + + In 1622 a lease on the customs on gold and silver thread lace is + given to Sir Edward Villiers.--_Ibid._ Vol. cxxxii. 34. + + [919] _Ibid._ Vol. cxxi. 64. + + [920] _Ibid._ Vol. cxxxii. 34. + + [921] In 1624 King James renews his prohibition against the manufacture of + "gold purles," as tending to the consumption of the coin and bullion + of the kingdom.--_Foedera_, Vol. xvii., p. 605. + + [922] Petition. April 8, 1623.--State Papers, Vol. cxlii. 44. See Chap. + xxx. + + [923] "Twoe payer of hande rebayters," _i.e._, cuffs. + + [924] In the P. R. O. (State Papers Dom., James I. 1603, Sept. Vol. iii. + No. 89) is "A Memorandum of that Misteris Jane Dru[=m]onde her + recyte from Ester Littellye, the furnishinge of her Majesties Linen + Cloth," a long account, in which, among numerous other entries, we + find:-- + + "It. at Basinge. Twenty four yeardes of small nidle work, at 6s. the + yearde, £7 4s. + + "More at Basinge. One ruffe cloth, cumbinge cloth and apron all + shewed with white worke, at 50s. the piece, £7 10s. + + "It. one pece of fine lawin to bee a ruffe, £5. + + "Item, for 18 yeards of fine lace to shewe the ruffe, at 6s. the + yearde, £5 8s. + + "Item, 68 purle of fair needlework, at 20 pence the purle, £5 15s. + 4d. + + "Item, at Winchester, the 28th of September, one piece of cambrick, + £4. + + "Item, for 6 yards of fine purle, at 20s., £6. + + "Item, for 4 yards of great bone lace, at 9s. the yard, 36s. + + Queen Anne has also a fair wrought sark costing £6, and a cut-work + handkerchief, £12, and 2 pieces of cut-work, ell wide and 2 yards + long, at £2. the length, etc. + + [925] _Lady Audrye Walsingham's Account._ 1606.--P. R. O. + + [926] Mary, her third daughter, died 1607, not two years of age. Mrs. + Greene quotes from the P. R. O. a note of the "necessaries to be + provided for the child," among which are six large cambric + handkerchiefs, whereof one is to be edged with "fair cut-work to lay + over the child's face"; six veils of lawn, edged with fair bone + lace; six "gathered bibs of fine lawn with ruffles edged with bone + lace," etc. The total value of the lace and cambric required for the + infant's garments is estimated at £300.--_Lives of the Princesses of + England._ Vol. vi., p. 90. + + [927] England is rich in monumental effigies decorated with lace--too many + to enumerate. Among them we would instance that of Alice, Countess + of Derby, died 1636, in Harefield Church, Middlesex, in which the + lace is very carefully sculptured.--Communicated by Mr. Albert + Hartshorne. + + [928] 1620-1. We have entries of "falling bands" of good cambric, edged + with beautiful bone lace, two dozen stitched and shagged, and + cut-work nightcaps, purchased for James I., in the same account, + with 28s. for "one load of hay to stuff the woolsacks for the + Parliament House."--G. W. Acc. Jac. I. 18 to 19. + + In the same year, 1620, an English company exported a large quantity + of gold and silver lace to India for the King of Golconda. + + [929] _Malcontent._ 1600. + + [930] Extraordinary expenses, 1622-26. P. R. O. + + [931] "2nd Acc. of Sir J. Villiers. 1617-18." P. R. O. + + [932] Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 6 to 7. + + [933] Taylor. 1640:-- + + "The beau would feign sickness + To show his nightcap fine, + And his wrought pillow overspread with lawn."--Davies. _Epigrams._ + + [934] "Acc. of Sir Lyonell Cranfield (now Earl of Middlesex), late Master + of the Great Wardrobe, touching the funeral of Queen Anne, who died + 2nd March, 1618 (_i.e._ 1619 N. S.). P. R. O. + + [935] About this time a complaint is made by the London tradesmen, of the + influx of refugee artizans, "who keepe theire misteries to + themselves, which hath made them bould of late to device engines for + workinge lace, &c., and such wherein one man doth more among them + than seven Englishmen can doe, soe as theire cheape sale of those + commodities beggareth all our English artificers of that trade and + enricheth them," which becomes "scarce tolleruble," they conclude. + Cecil, in consequence, orders a census to be made in 1621. Among the + traders appears "one satten lace maker." + + Colchester is bitterly irate against the Dutch strangers, and + complains of one "Jonas Snav, a Bay and Say maker, whose wife + selleth blacke, browne, and white thredde, and all sorts of bone + lace and vatuegardes, which they receive out of Holland. One Isaac + Bowman, an Alyen born, a chirurgeon and merchant, selleth hoppes, + bone lace, and such like, to the great grievance of the free + burgesses." + + A nest of refugee lace-makers, "who came out of France by reason of + the late 'trobles' yet continuing," were congregated at Dover + (1621-2). A list of about five-and-twenty "widows, being makers of + Bone lace," is given, and then Mary Tanyer and Margarett Le Moyne, + "maydens and makers of bone lace," wind up the catalogue of the + Dover "Alyens." + + The Maidstone authorities complain that the thread-makers' trade is + much decayed by the importation of thread from Flanders.--_List of + Foreign Protestants resident in England._ 1618-88. Printed by the + Camden Society. + + [936] Jasper Mayne. + + [937] Beaumont and Fletcher. + + [938] "Valuables of Glenurquhy, 1640." Innes' _Sketches of Early Scotch + History_. + + [939] Collars of Hollie worke appear in the Inventories of Mary Stuart. + + [940] "Thomas Hodges, for making ruffe and cuffes for his Highness of + cuttworke edged with a fayre peake purle, £7."--2nd Account of Sir + J. Villiers. Prince Charles. 1617-18. P. R. O. + + "40 yards broad peaked lace to edge 6 cupboard cloths, at 4s. a + yard, £8."--_Ibid._ + + [941] "Seaming" lace and spacing lace appear to have been generally used + at this period to unite the breadths of linen, instead of a seam + sewed. We find them employed for cupboard cloths, cushion cloths, + sheets, shirts, etc., throughout the accounts of King James and + Prince Charles. + + "At Stratford-upon-Avon is preserved, in the room where Shakspeare's + wife, Anne Hathaway, was born, an oaken linen chest, containing a + pillow-case and a very large sheet made of homespun linen. Down the + middle of the sheet is an ornamental open or cut-work insertion, + about an inch and a half deep, and the pillow-case is similarly + ornamented. They are marked E. H., and have always been used by the + Hathaway family on special occasions, such as births, deaths, and + marriages. This is still a common custom in Warwickshire; and many + families can proudly show embroidered bed linen, which has been used + on state occasions, and carefully preserved in old carved chests for + three centuries and more."--_A Shakspeare Memorial._ 1864. + + [942] _The Truth of the Times._ W. Peacham. 1638. + + [943] State Papers Dom. Jas. I. Vol. lxxii. No. 28. + + [944] Warrant on the Great Wardrobe. 1612-13. Princess Elizabeth's + marriage. + + [945] Frankfort fair, at which most of the German princes made their + purchases. + + [946] German Correspondence. 1614-15.--P. R. O. + + We find among the accounts of Col. Schomberg and others:-- + + "To a merchant of Strasbourg, for laces which she had sent from + Italy, 288 rix-dollars." And, in addition to numerous entries of + silver and other laces:-- + + "Pour dentelle et linge karé pour Madame, 115 florins." + + "Donné Madame de Caus pour des mouchoirs à point couppée pour + Madame, £4." + + "Une petite dentelle à point couppé, £3," etc. + + Point coupé handkerchiefs seem to have been greatly in fashion. Ben + Jonson, "Bartholomew Fair," 1614, mentions them:-- + + "A cut-work handkerchief she gave me." + + [947] See _Snelling's Coins._ Pl. ix. 8, 9, 10. + + [948] _Ibid._ Pl. ix. 5, 6, 11. + + [949] Evelyn, describing a medal of King Charles I., struck in 1633, says + he wears "a falling band, which new mode succeeded the cumbersome + ruff; but neither did the bishops or the judges give it up so soon, + the Lord Keeper Finch being, I think, the very first." + + [950] In 1633, the bills having risen to £1,500 a year, a project is made + for reducing the charge for the King's fine linen and bone lace, + "for his body," again to £1,000 per annum, for which sum it "may be + very well done."--State Papers, Chas. I. Vol. ccxxxiv. No. 83. + + [951] "Paid to Smith Wilkinson, for 420 yards of good Flanders bone lace + for 12 day ruffes and 6 night ruffes 'cum cuffes eisdem,' £87 15s. + + "For 6 falling bands made of good broad Flanders lace and Cuttworks + with cuffs of the same, £52 16s."--Gt. W. A. Car. I. 6 = 1631. + + [952] See G. W. A., Mich., 1629, to April, 1630. + + [953] _Twelfth-Night._ + + [954] G. W. A. Car. I. The Annunciation 9 to Mich. 11. + + [955] _Ibid._ 8 and 9. + + [956] State Papers Dom. Charles I. Vol. cxlix. No. 31. + + [957] In a letter to Mr. Edward Nicholas, Sec. of the Admiralty, March + 7th, 1627 (afterwards Sec. of State to Chas. II.).--St. P. D. Chas. + I. Vol. cxxiii. 62. + + Among the State Papers (Vol. cxxvi. 70), is a letter from Susan + Nicholas to her "loveing Brother," 1628. About lace for his band, + she writes: "I have sent you your bootehose and could have sent your + lase for your band, but that I did see these lasees which to my + thought did do a greddeale better then that wh you did bespeake, and + the best of them will cost no more then that which is half a crowne + a yard, and so the uppermost will cost you, and the other will cost + 18 pence; I did thinke you would rather staye something long for it + then to pay so deare for that wh would make no better show; if you + like either of these, you shall have it sone desptch, for I am + promise to have it made in a fortnight. I have received the monie + from my cousson Hunton. Heare is no news to wright of. Thus with my + best love remembred unto you, I rest your very loving sister, + + "SUSANNE NICHOLAS. + + "I have sent ye the lase ye foyrst bespoke, to compare them + together, to see which ye like best." + + [958] In 1620 an English company exported a large quantity of gold and + silver lace to India for the King of Golconda. + + [959] W. Peacham, _Truth of the Times_. 1638. + + Hamlet says there are + + "Two Provençal roses on my regal shoes." + + "When roses in the gardens grow, + And not in ribbons on a shoe; + Now ribbon-roses take such place, + That garden roses want their grace." + --"Friar Bacon's Prophesie." 1604. + "I like," says Evelyn, "the boucle better than the formal + rose."--_Tyrannus, or the Mode._ + + [960] This proclamation is dated from "our Honour of Hampton Court, 30th + April, 1635."--Rymer's _Foedera_. T. 19, p. 690. + + [961] When Anne of Austria was suspected of secret correspondence with + Spain and England, Richelieu sent the Chancellor to question the + Abbess of the Val-de-Grâce with respect to the casket which had been + secretly brought into the monastery. The Abbess (_Vie de la Mère + d'Arbouse_) declared that this same casket came from the Queen of + England, and that it only contained lace, ribbons, and other + trimmings of English fashion, sent by Henrietta Maria as a present + to the Queen.--_Galerie de l'Ancienne Cour._ 1791. + + [962] State Papers Dom. Vol. cxxiii. No. 65. + + [963] "Rhodon and Iris, a Pastoral." 1631. + + [964] "Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus." 1645. + + [965] "You must to the Pawn (Exchange) to buy lawn, to St. Martin for + lace."--_Westward Ho._ 1607. + + "A copper lace called St. Martin's lace."--Strype. + + [966] Taylor, "Whip of Pride." 1640. + + [967] In _Eastward Ho_, 1605, proud Gertrude says: "Smocks of three pound + a smock, are to be born with all." + + [968] "Bartholomew Fair." 1614. + + "She shewed me gowns and head tires, + Embroidered waistcoats, smocks seam'd thro' with cut-works." + --Beaumont and Fletcher, "Four Plays in One." 1647. + + "Who would ha' thought a woman so well harness'd, + Or rather well caparison'd, indeed, + That wears such petticoats, and lace to her smocks, + Broad seaming laces." + --Ben Jonson, _The Devil is an Ass_. 1616. + + [971] A suite of russet "laced all over with silver curle + lace."--"Expenses of Robt. Sidney, Earl of Leicester. Temp. Chas. + I." + + "This comes of wearing + Scarlet, gold lace and cut-works; your fine gartering + With your blown roses." + --_The Devil is an Ass._ + + [973] _Notes from Black Fryers._ + + [974] Jasper Mayne. "Amorous War." 1659. + + [975] "The Little French Lawyer." + + [976] _Memoirs._ + + [977] _The Cromwell Family._ + + [978] Sir Philip Warwick. 1640. + + [979] At the Restoration, it was removed from the Abbey and hung out of + the window at Whitehall, and then broken up and destroyed. + + [980] 1661, Nov. 20. State Papers. Dom. Charles II. Vol. xliv. P. R. O. + + [981] "To William Briers, for making the Colobium Sindonis of fine lawn + laced with fine Flanders lace, 33s. 4d. + + "To Valentine Stucky, for 14 yards and a half of very fine Flanders + lace for the same, at 18s. per yard, £12 6s. 6d."--"Acc. of the E. + of Sandwich, Master of the G. W. for the Coronation of King Charles + II. 23 April, 1661." P. R. O. + + [982] In the G. W. A. for 29 and 30 occurs a curious entry by the Master + of the Great Wardrobe:--"I doe hereby charge myself with 5,000 + Livres by me received in the realm of France for gold and silver + fringes by me there sold, belon^g to a rich embroidered Bed of his + said Majesty, which at one shilling and sevenpence [per] lib. + English. Being the value of the Exchange at that time, amounts to + £395 16s. 8d. + + "(Signed) R. MONTAGUE. + "May 28, 1678." + + [983] 14 Car. II. c. 13. Statutes at large. The Acts of Charles II. date + from the death of his father; so the year of the Restoration, 1660, + is counted as the thirteenth of his reign. + + [984] 1662. State Papers Dom. Charles II. Vol. lv., No. 25. P. R. O. + + [985] He pays £194 to his Laceman (Tenentori) for 3 Cravats "de poynt de + Venez," and 24s. per yard for 57 yards of narrow point "teniæ poynt + augustæ," to trim his falling ruffles, "manicis cadentibus," + etc.--G. W. A. Car. II. 24 and 25. + + Later (1676-7) we find charged for "un par manicarum, le poynt, + £14." + + [986] When it was replaced by a black ribbon and a bow. + + [987] London, 1680. + + [988] Authors, however, disagree like the rest of the world. In a tract + called _The Ancient Trades Decayed Repaired Again_, by Sir Roger + L'Estrange (1678), we read: "Nay, if the materials used in a trade + be not of the growth of England, yet, if the trade be to employ the + poor, we should have it bought without money, and brought to us from + beyond the seas where it is made as 'Bone lace.'" + + [989] Swift. _Baucis and Philemon._ + + [990] _Intelligencer_, 1665, June 5. "Lost, six handkerchers wrapt up in a + brown paper, two laced, one point-laced set on tiffany; the two + laced ones had been worn, the other four new." + + _London Gazette._ 1672, Dec. 5-9. "Lost, a lawn pocket handkercher + with a broad hem, laced round with a fine Point lace about four + fingers broad, marked with an R in red silk." + + [991] Evelyn. It was the custom, at a Maiden Assize, to present the judge + with a pair of "laced gloves." Lord Campbell in 1856, at the Lincoln + Lent Assizes, received from the sheriff a pair of white gloves + richly trimmed with Brussels lace and embroidered, the city arms + embossed in frosted silver on the back. + + [992] _London Gazette._ 1677, Jan. 28-31. Again, Oct. 4-8, in the same + year. "Stolen or lost out of the Petworth waggon, a deal box + directed to the Lady Young of Burton in Sussex; there was in it a + fine Point Apron, a suit of thin laced Night clothes," etc. + + [993] _London Gazette._ 1675, June 14-17. "A right Point lace with a long + musling neck laced at the ends with a narrow Point about three + fingers broad, and a pair of Point cuffs of the same, worn foul and + never washt, was lost on Monday last." + + _Ibid._ 1677, Oct. 22-25. "Found in a ditch, Four laced forehead + cloths. One laced Pinner, one laced Quoif, one pair of laced + ruffels.... Two point aprons and other laced linen." + + _Intelligencer._ 1664, Oct. 3. "Lost, A needle work point without a + border, with a great part of the loups cut out, and a quarter of it + new loupt with the needle. £5 reward." + + [994] _London Gazette._ 1677, Oct. 8-11. + + [995] _Tyrannus, or the Mode._ 1661. + + [996] It is written Colberteen, Colbertain, Golbertain, Colbertine. + + [997] Colberteen, a lace resembling network, being of the manufacture of + M. Colbert, a French statesman. + + [998] A writer in _Notes and Queries_ says: "I recollect this lace worn as + a ruffle fifty years ago. The ground was square and coarse, it had a + fine edge, with a round mesh, on which the pattern was woven. It was + an inferior lace and in every-day wear." + + [999] _Cadenus and Vanessa._ See also Young, p. 111. + +[1000] _Way of the World._ + +[1001] _Six Weeks in France._ 1691. + +[1002] Gt. W. A. Car. II. 35-36 = 1683-4. + +[1003] _Gazette_, July 20, 1682. Lost, a portmanteau full of women's + clothes, among which are enumerated "two pairs of Point d'Espagne + ruffles, a laced night rail and waistcoat, a pair of Point de Venise + ruffles, a black laced scarf," etc.--_Malcolm's Anecdotes of + London._ + + The lace of James II.'s cravats and ruffles are of point de Venise. + + Sex prælant cravatts de lacinia Venetiarum, are charged £141, and 9 + yards lace, for six more cravats, £45. + + £36 10s. for the cravat of Venice lace to wear on the day of his + Coronation," etc.--G. W. A. Jac. II. 1685-6. + +[1004] A writer in the _Gentleman's Magazine_, (October, 1745), mentions: + "In the parlour of the monastery of English Benedictines at Paris, I + was shown the mask of the king's face, taken off immediately after + he was dead, together with the fine laced nightcap he died in." The + cap at Dunkirk is trimmed with Flemish lace (old Mechlin). It must + have passed from Paris to the convent of English Benedictines at + Dunkirk, who left that city in 1793. There is no record how it + became deposited in the Museum.--Communicated by M. de Forçade, + Conservator of the Museu la Dunkirk. + +[1005] 9 & 10 Will. III. = 1697-8. + +[1006] 11 & 12 Will. III. = 1698-9. + +[1007] Smith's _Wealth of Nations_. + +[1008] See LOUIS XIV. + +[1009] See LOUIS XIV. + +[1010] _Spectator_, No. 129. 1711. + + "Lost, from behind a Hackney coach, Lombard Street, a grounded lace + night rail."--_London Gazette._ Aug. 8, 1695. + + "Lost, two loopt lace Pinners and a pair of double laced ruffles, + bundled up together."--_Ibid._ Jan. 6-10, 1697. + + "Taken out of two boxes in Mr. Drouth's waggon ... six cards of + piece lace looped and purled, scolopt heads to most of them ... a + fine Flanders lace head and ruffles, groundwork set on a wier," + etc.--_Ibid._ April 11-14, 1698. + + "Furbelows are not confined to scarfs, but, they must have + furbelow'd gowns, and furbelow'd petticoats, and furbelow'd aprons; + and, as I have heard, furbelow'd smocks too."--_Pleasant Art of + Money-catching._ 1730. + +[1011] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751. + +[1012] "Bought of John Bishop & Jer. Peirie, att y^e Golden Ball, in + Ludgate Hill, 26 April, 1693: + + "3 yards ½ of Rich silver rufl'd scollop lace falbala, with a Rich + broad silver Tire Orris at the head, at 7s. 3d. a yard, £25 0s. 6d. + + "8 yards of broad scollopped thread lace, at 25s. + + "3 yards Rich Paigning (?) Lace, 48s. 8d., £8 14s." + +[1013] "9 ½ Fine purle to set on the pinner, at 3s." + +[1014] "5 ¾ of fine broad cattgutt border, at 20_s_." + +[1015] "1 yard 7/16 Raised Point to put on the top of a pair of sleeves, at + 30s." + +[1016] "8 yards of Broad Needlework Lace, at 30s." + +[1017] "3 yards of lace to Mazzarine y^e pinners, at 25s." + + Probably the same as the French "campanner." + +[1018] The Milliner, in Shadwell's _Bury Fair_. 1720. + +[1019] G. W. A. Will. III. 1688 to 1702. P. R. O. + +[1020] _Ibid._ vii. & viii. + +[1021] "I hope your Lordship is pleased with your Steinkerk."--Sir John + Vanbrugh. _The Relapse._ + + In Colley Cibber's _Careless Husband_, Lady Easy takes the Steinkirk + off her neck and lays it on Sir Charles's head when he is asleep. + + In _Love's Last Shift_, by the same author (1695), the hero speaks + of being "Strangled in my own Steinkerk." + + In _Love for Love_, by Congreve, Sir Novelty enumerates the + Steinkirk, the large button, with other fashions, as created by him. + + "I have heard the Steinkirk arrived but two months + ago."--_Spectator_, No. 129. + + The "modish spark" wears "a huge Steinkirk, twisted, to the + waist."--1694. _Prologue to First Part of Don Quixote._ + + Frank Osbaldeston, in _Rob Roy_, is deprived by the Highlanders of + his cravat, "a Steinkirke richly laced." + + At Ham House was the portrait of a Countess of Dysart, temp. Anne, + in three-cornered cocked hat, long coat, flapped waistcoat, and + Mechlin Steinkirk. + + In the Account Book of Isabella, Duchess of Grafton, daughter of + Lord Arlington, Evelyn's "sweet child"--her portrait hangs in Queen + Mary's Room, Hampton Court--we have: "1709. To a Stinkirk, £1 12s. + 3d." + + They appear to have been made of other stuffs than lace, for in the + same account, 1708, we have entered: "To a green Steenkirk, £1 1s. + 6d." + +[1022] _The Volunteers, or the Stock Jobbers._ + +[1023] "The Tombs in Westminster Abbey," sung by the Brothers Popplewell. + Broadside, 1775.--B. M. Roxburgh Coll. + +[1024] King Charles II.'s lace is the same as that of Queen Mary. The + Duchess of Buckingham (the "mad" Duchess, daughter of James II.) has + also very fine raised lace. + +[1025] Venice, Bib. St. Mark. Contarini Miscellany. Communicated by Mr. + Rawdon Brown. + +[1026] _Weekly Journal._ March, 1717. + +[1027] _The Modern Warrior._ 1756. + +[1028] Acc. of Ralph, Earl of Montague, Master of the G. W., touching the + Funeral of William III. and Coronation of Queen Anne. P. R. O. + +[1029] Statutes at large.--Anne 5 & 6. + +[1030] This edict greatly injured the lace trade of France. In the _Atlas + Maritime et Commercial_ of 1727, it states: "I might mention several + other articles of French manufacture which, for want of a market in + England where their chief consumption was, are so much decayed and + in a manner quite sunk. I mean as to exportation, the English having + now set up the same among themselves, such as bone lace." + +[1031] _History of Trade._ London, 1702. + +[1032] "Pro 14 virgis lautæ Fimbr' Bruxell' laciniæ et 12 virgis dict' + laciniæ pro Reginæ persona, £151."--G. W. A. 1710-11. + +[1033] _Letters of the Countess of Hartford to the Countess of Pomfret._ + 1740. + +[1034] _Memoirs of Lady R. Russell._ + + "My high commode, my damask gown, + My laced shoes of Spanish leather." + --D'Urfey. _The Young Maid's Portion._ + +[1036] No. 98. 1711. + +[1037] After fifteen years' discontinuance it shot up again. Swift, on + meeting the Duchess of Grafton, dining at Sir Thomas Hanmer's, thus + attired, declared she "looked like a mad woman." + +[1038] Statutes at large. + +[1039] In 1712 Mrs. Beale had stolen from her "a green silk knit waistcoat + with gold and silver flowers all over it, and about 14 yards of gold + and silver thick lace on it"; while another lady was robbed of a + scarlet cloth coat so overlaid with the same lace, it might have + been of any other colour.--_Malcolm's Anecdotes of the Manners and + Customs of London in the Eighteenth Century._ + +[1040] _Post Boy._ Nov. 15, 1709. Articles Lost. + +[1041] _A Discourse on Trade_, by John Cary, merchant of Bristol. 1717. + + Again: "What injury was done by the Act 9-10 Will. III. for the more + effectual preventing of importation of foreign bone lace, doth + sufficiently appear by the preamble to that made 10-12 of the same + reign for repealing it three months after the prohibition of our + woollen manufactures in Flanders (which was occasioned by it) should + be taken off; but I don't understand it be yet done, and it may + prove an inevitable loss to the nation." + +[1042] _Lover._ No. 10. 1714. + +[1043] The ornamental ribbons worn about the dress: "His dress has bows, + and fine fallals."--Evelyn. Sometimes the term appears applied to + the Fontanges or Commode. We read (1691) of "her three-storied + Fladdal." + +[1044] _Tunbridge Wells._ 1727. + +[1045] In _The Recruiting Officer_ (1781), Lucy the maid says: "Indeed, + Madam the last bribe I had from the Captain was only a small piece + of Flanders lace for a cap." Melinda answers: "Ay, Flanders lace is + a constant present from officers.... They every year bring over a + cargo of lace, to cheat the king of his duty and his subjects of + their honesty." Again, Silvio, in the bill of costs he sends in to + the widow Zelinda, at the termination of his unsuccessful suit, + makes a charge for "a piece of Flanders lace" to Mrs. Abigail, her + woman.--Addison, in _Guardian_, No. 17. 1713. + +[1046] "In the next reign, George III. and Queen Charlotte often + condescended to become sponsors to the children of the aristocracy. + To one child their presence was fatal. In 1778 they 'stood' to the + infant daughter of the last Duke and Duchess of Chandos. Cornwallis, + Archbishop of Canterbury, officiated. The baby, overwhelmed by whole + mountains of lace, lay in a dead faint. Her mother was so tender on + the point of etiquette, that she would not let the little incident + trouble a ceremony at which a king and queen were about to endow her + child with the names of Georgiana Charlotte. As Cornwallis gave back + the infant to her nurse, he remarked that it was the quietest baby + he had ever held. Poor victim of ceremony! It was not quite dead, + but dying; in a few unconscious hours it calmly slept away."--"A + Gossip on Royal Christenings." _Cornhill Magazine._ April, 1864. + +[1047] "Furniture of a Woman's Mind." + +[1048] "Dean Swift to a Young Lady." + +[1049] Cowley. + +[1050] 1731. _Simile for the Ladies, alluding to the laces worn at the last + Birthday and not paid for._ + + "In Evening fair you may behold + The Clouds are fringed with borrowed gold, + And this is many a lady's case + Who flaunts about in borrowed lace." + +[1051] Jenyns. "The Modern Fine Lady." + +[1052] Crown. _Sir Courtly Nice, or It Cannot Be_, a Comedy. 1731. + +[1053] "1748. Ruffles of twelve pounds a yard."--_Apology for Mrs. T. C. + Philips._ 1748. + + Lace, however, might be had at a more reasonable rate:-- + + "'I have a fine lac'd suit of pinners,' says Mrs. Thomas, 'that was + my great-grandmother's! that has been worn but twice these forty + years, and my mother told me cost almost four pounds when it was + new, and reaches down hither.'"--"Miss Lucy in Town." Fielding. + +[1054] _Dictionary of Commerce._ 1766. + +[1055] He was a martinet about his own dress, for his biographer relates + during the last illness of Queen Caroline (1737), though the King + was "visibly affected," remembering he had to meet the foreign + ministers next day, he gave particular directions to his pages "to + see that new ruffles were sewn on his old shirt sleeves, whereby he + might wear a decent air in the eyes of the representatives of + foreign majesty." + +[1056] "By a list of linen furnished to the Princesses Louisa and Mary, we + find their night-dresses were trimmed with lace at 10s. per yard, + and while their Royal Highnesses were in bibs, they had six suits of + broad lace for aprons at from £50 to £60 each suit."--_Corr. of the + Countess of Suffolk, Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Caroline._ + + Observe also the lace-trimmed aprons, ruffles, tuckers, etc., in the + pretty picture of the family of Frederick, Prince of Wales, at + Hampton Court Palace. + +[1057] The laws regarding the introduction of lace during this reign + continued much the same until 1749, when the royal assent was given + to an Act preventing the importation or wear of gold, silver, and + thread lace manufactured in foreign parts. + +[1058] In the meeting of Nov. 10, 1752, at the "Crown, behind the Royal + Exchange," the Hon. Edward Vernon, grand president, in the chair, it + was agreed that the following premiums should be awarded: "For the + best pair of men's needlework ruffles, to be produced to the + committee in the first week of May next, five guineas; to the + second, three guineas; to the third, two guineas. And for the best + pair of English bone lace for ladies' lappets, to be produced to the + committee in August next, fifteen guineas; to the second, ten + guineas; to the third, five guineas."--_Gentleman's Magazine._ + +[1059] "Cardinal," a loose cloak after the fashion of a cardinal's + "_trollopée_," a loose flowing gown open in the front, worn as a + morning dress.--Fairholt. "Slammerkin," a sort of loose dress. This + ugly word, in course of time, was used as an adjective, to signify + untidy. Fortunately it is now obsolete. + +[1060] "Don't read history to me, for that I know to be false," said Sir R. + Walpole to his son Horace, when he offered to read to him in his + last illness. + +[1061] Lady M. W. Montagu. "Letter to Lord Harvey on the King's Birthday." + + "The working apron, too, from France, + With all its trim appurtenance." + --"Mundus Muliebris." + +[1063] Goldsmith. _Life of Richard Nash, of Bath._ London, 1762. + +[1064] 1764. + +[1065] _Gentleman's Magazine._ + +[1066] 1767. "An officer of the customs seized nearly £400 worth of + Flanders lace, artfully concealed in the hollow of a ship's buoy, on + board a French trader, lying off Iron Gate."--_Annual Register._ + + 1772. "27,000 ells of French (Blois?) lace were seized in the port + of Leigh alone."--_Gentleman's Magazine._ + +[1067] The turbulent Bishop of Rochester, who was arraigned for his + Jacobite intrigues, and died in exile at Paris. 1731. + +[1068] If imported in smaller quantities than twelve yards, the duty + imposed was £2 per yard. + + "Let the ruffle grace his hand, + Ruffle, pride of Gallic land." + --"The Beau." 1755. + + "And dip your wristbands + (For cuffs you've none) as comely in the sauce + As any courtier." + --Beaumont and Fletcher. + +[1071] He had retired to the country to be out of the way. + +[1072] August, 1776. + +[1073] The wardrobe of George IV. was estimated at the same sum. + +[1074] Cowper. + +[1075] 1757. + +[1076] "Monsieur à la Mode." 1753. + + "Let of ruffles many a row + Guard your elbows white as snow." + --"The Belle." 1755. + + "Gone to a lady of distinction with a Brussels head and + ruffles."--_The Fool of Quality._ 1766. + +[1078] "Receipt for Modern Dress." 1753. + +[1079] _Recollections of Madame d'Arblay._ + +[1080] Beaumont and Fletcher. _The Knight of Malta._ + +[1081] In coffins with glass tops. Some of them date from 1700. + +[1082] In the vault of the Schleswig-Holstein family at Sonderburg. + +[1083] In the church of Revel lies the Duc de Croÿ, a general of Charles + XII., arrayed in full costume, with a rich flowing tie of fine + guipure; not that he was ever interred--his body had been seized by + his creditors for debt, and there it still remains. + + The author of _Letters from a Lady in Russia_ (1775), describing the + funeral of a daughter of Prince Menzikoff, states she was dressed in + a nightgown of silver tissue, on her head a fine laced mob, and a + coronet; round her forehead a ribbon embroidered with her name and + age, etc. + +[1084] Alluding to this custom of interring ladies of rank in full dress, + Madame de Sévigné writes to her daughter:--"Mon Dieu, ma chère + enfant, que vos femmes sont sottes, vivantes et mortes! Vous me + faites horreur de cette fontange; quelle profanation! cela sent le + paganisme, ho! cela me dégoûteroit bien de mourir en Provence; il + faudroit que du moins je fusse assuré qu'on ne m'iroit pas chercher + une coëffeuse en même temps qu'un plombier. Ah! vraiment! fi! ne + parlez plus de cela."--Lettre 627. Paris, 13 Déc, 1688. + +[1085] Laborde. _Itin. de l'Espagne._ Again, the Duc de Luynes says: "The + Curé of St. Sulpice related to me the fashion in which the Duke of + Alva, who died in Paris in 1739, was by his own will interred. A + shirt of the finest Holland, trimmed with new point lace, the finest + to be had for money; a new coat of Vardez cloth, embroidered in + silver; a new wig; his cane on the right, his sword on the left of + his coffin."--_Mémoires._ + +[1086] That grave-clothes were lace-trimmed we infer from the following + strange announcement in the _London Gazette_ for August 12th to + 15th, 1678: "Whereas decent and fashionable lace shifts and + Dressings for the dead, made of woollen, have been presented to his + Majesty by Amy Potter, widow (the first that put the making of such + things in practice), and his Majesty well liking the same, hath upon + her humble Petition, been graciously pleased to give her leave to + insert this advertisement, that it may be known she now wholly + applies herself in making both lace and plain of all sorts, at + reasonable prices, and lives in Crane Court in the Old Change, near + St. Paul's Church Yard." Again, in November of the same year, we + find another advertisement:--"His Majesty, to increase the woollen + manufacture and to encourage obedience to the late act for burying + in woollen, has granted to Amy Potter the sole privilege of making + all sorts of woollen laces for the decent burial of the dead or + otherwise, for fourteen years, being the first inventor thereof." + +[1087] Betterton's _History of the English Stage_. Her kindness to the + poet Savage is well known. + +[1088] This seems to have been a spécialité of Gibbons; for we find among + the treasures of Strawberry Hill: "A beautiful cravat, in imitation + of lace, carved by Gibbons, very masterly."--_Hist. and Antiquities + of Twickenham._ London, 1797. + +[1089] Mrs. Piozzi's _Memoirs_. + +[1090] A lady, who had very fine old lace, bequeathed her "wardrobe and + lace" to some young friends, who, going after her death to take + possession of their legacy, were surprised to find nothing but new + lace. On inquiring of the old faithful Scotch servant what had + become of the old needle points, she said: "Deed it's aw there, + 'cept a wheen auld Dudds, black and ragged, I flinged on the fire." + + Another collection of old lace met with an equally melancholy fate. + The maid, not liking to give it over to the legatees in its + coffee-coloured hue, sewed it carefully together, and put it in a + strong soap lye on the fire, to simmer all night. When she took it + out in the morning, it was reduced to a jelly! Medea's caldron had + not been more effectual! + +[1091] Cowper. "The Winter Evening." + +[1092] Bishop Berkeley, in _A Word to the Wise_, writes of the English + labourers in the South of England on a summer's evening "sitting + along the streets of the town or village, each at his own door, with + a cushion before him, making bone lace, and earning more in an + evening's pastime than an Irish family would in a whole day." + +[1093] "Wells, bone lace and knitting stockings."--Anderson. + +[1094] "Launceston, where are two schools for forty-eight children of both + sexes. The girls are taught to read, sew, and make bone lace, and + they are to have their earnings for encouragement."--_Magna + Britannia._ 1720. + + Welsh lace was made at Swansea, Pont-Ardawe, Llanwrtyd, Dufynock, + and Brecon, but never of any beauty, some not unlike a coarse + Valenciennes. "It was much made and worn," said an aged Wesleyan + lady, "by our 'connexion,' and as a child I had all my frocks and + pinafores trimmed with it. It was made in the cottages; each + lace-maker had her own pattern, and carried it out for sale in the + country." + +[1095] At what period, and by whom the lace manufactory of Ripon was + founded, we have been unable to ascertain. It was probably a relic + of conventual days, which, after having followed the fashion of each + time, has now gradually died out. In 1842 broad Trolly laces of + French design and fair workmanship were fabricated in the old + cathedral city; where, in the poorer localities near the Bond and + Blossomgate, young women might be seen working their intricate + patterns, with pillows, bobbins, and pins. In 1862 one old woman + alone, says our informant, sustains the memory of the craft, her + produce a lace of a small lozenge-shaped pattern (Fig. 132), that + earliest of all designs, and a narrow edging known in local parlance + by the name of "fourpenny spot." + +[1096] Till its annexation to the Crown, the Isle of Man was the great + smuggling depôt for French laces. The traders then removed en masse + to the Channel Isles, there to carry on their traffic. An idiot + called "Peg the Ply" in Castletown (in 1842) was seen working at her + pillow on a summer's evening, the last lace-maker of the island. + Isle of Man lace was a simple Valenciennes edging. + +[1097] Isle of Wight lace was honoured by the patronage of Queen Victoria. + The Princess Royal, reports the _Illustrated News_ of May, 1856, at + the drawing-room, on her first presentation, wore a dress of Newport + lace, her train trimmed with the same. + + The weariness of incarceration, when at Carisbrook, did not bring on + Charles I. any distaste for rich apparel. Among the charges of 1648, + Sept. and Nov., we find a sum of nigh £800 for suits and cloaks of + black brocade tabby, black unshorn velvet, and black satin, all + lined with plush and trimmed with rich bone lace. + + Some bobbin lace was made in the island, but what is known as "Isle + of Wight" resembles "Nottingham" lace. It is made in frames on + machine net, the pattern outlined with a run thread and filled in + with needle-point stitches. Queen Victoria had several lace tippets + made of Isle of Wight lace for the Royal children, and always chose + the Mechlin style of rose pattern. Now (1901) there are only two or + three old women workers left. + +[1098] Lace-making was never the staple manufacture of the Channel Islands; + stockings and garments of knitted wool afforded a livelihood to the + natives. We have early mention of these articles in the inventories + of James V. of Scotland and of Mary Stuart. Also in those of Henry + VIII. and Queen Elizabeth, in which last we find (Gt. Ward. Acc., 28 + & 29) the charge of 20s. for a pair of "Caligarum nexat' de factura + Garneseie," the upper part and "lez clocks" worked in silk. At the + beginning of the nineteenth century, when the island was inundated + with French refugees, lace-making was introduced with much success + into the Poor-House of St. Heliers. It formed the favourite + occupation of the ladies of the island, some of whom (1863) retain + the patterns and pillows of their mothers, just as they left them. + Of late years many of the old raised Venetian points have been + admirably imitated in "Jersey crochet work." + +[1099] The Puritans again, on their part, transferred the fabric to the + other side of the Atlantic, where, says a writer of the eighteenth + century, "very much fine lace was made in Long Island by the + Protestant settlers." + +[1100] See Chap. XXII. + +[1101] The richly-laced corporax cloths and church linen are sent to be + washed by the "Lady Ancress," an ecclesiastical washerwoman, who is + paid by the churchwardens of St. Margaret's, Westminster, the sum of + 8d.; this Lady Ancress, or Anchoress, being some worn-out nun, who, + since the dissolution of the religious houses, eked out an existence + by the art she had once practised within the convent. + +[1102] In 1753 prizes were awarded for 14 pairs of curious needlework point + ruffles. + +[1103] One society confers a prize of ten guineas upon a "gentlewoman for + an improvement in manufacture by finishing a piece of lace in a very + elegant manner with knitting-needles." + +[1104] The lace of the three counties is practically equal--that is, it is + all made in a similar fashion, and the same patterns are met with in + each county. The "point" or "net" ground is met with in all, and + worked level with the pattern in the same way with bobbins. + +[1105] Who fled from the Alva persecutions, and settled, first at Cranfield + in Bedfordshire, then at Buckingham, Stoney Stratford, and + Newport-Pagnel, whence the manufacture extended gradually over + Oxford, Northampton, and Cambridge. Many Flemish names are still to + be found in the villages of Bedfordshire. + +[1106] Queen Katherine died 1536. + +[1107] She retired to Ampthill early in 1531 while her appeal to Rome was + pending, and remained there till the summer of 1533. + +[1108] Lace of the heavy Venetian point was already used for ecclesiastical + purposes, though scarcely in general use. The earliest known + pattern-books date from fifteen years previous to the death of + Katherine (1536). + +[1109] Dr. Nicolas Harpsfield. Douay, 1622. (In Latin.) + + Again we read that at Kimbolton "she plied her needle, drank her + potions, and told her beads."--_Duke of Manchester. Kimbolton + Papers._ + +[1110] A lady from Ampthill writes (1863): "The feast of St. Katherine is + no longer kept. In the palmy days of the trade both old and young + used to subscribe a sum of money and enjoy a good cup of Bohea and + cake, which they called 'Cattern' cake. After tea they danced and + made merry, and finished the evening with a supper of boiled stuffed + rabbits smothered with onion sauce." The custom of sending about + Cattern cakes was also observed at Kettering, in Northamptonshire. + +[1111] _Tour through the whole Island of Great Britain_, by a Gentleman. 3 + vols. 1724-27. Several subsequent editions of Defoe were published, + with additions, by Richardson the novelist in 1732, 1742, 1762, + 1769, and 1778. The last is "brought down to the present time by a + gentleman of eminence in the literary world." + +[1112] _Magna Britannia et Hibernia, or a New Survey of Great Britain, + collected and composed by an impartial hand_, by the Rev. Thos. + Owen. Lond. 1720-31. + +[1113] State Papers Dom. Jac. I. Vol. 142. P. R. O. + +[1114] Savary and Peuchet. + +[1115] _Worthies._ Vol. i., p. 134. + +[1116] _Magna Britannia_, Daniel and Samuel Lysons. 1806-22. + +[1117] Describing the "lace and edgings" of the tradesman's wife, she has + "from Stoney Stratford the first, and Great Marlow the last."--_The + Complete English Tradesman_, Dan. Defoe. 1726. + +[1118] Edition 1762. + +[1119] In _Sheahan's History of Bucks_, published in 1862, the following + places are mentioned as being engaged in the industry:--"Bierton + (black and white lace), Cuddington, Haddenham, Great Hampden, + Wendover, Gawcott (black), Beachampton, Marsh Gibbon, Preston + Bisset, Claydon, Grendon, Dorton, Grandborough, Oving (black and + white), Waddesdon, Newport-Pagnell, Bletchley, Hopton, Great + Horwood, Bon Buckhill, Fenny Stratford, Hanslope (where 500 women + and children are employed--about one-third of the population), + Levendon, Great Sandford, Loughton, Melton Keynes, Moulsoe, Newton + Blossomville, Olney, Sherrington, and the adjoining villages, Stoke + Hammond, Wavendon, Great and Little Kimble, Wooleston, Aston Abbots, + Swanbourne, Winslow, Rodnage." + +[1120] _The Voyage to Great Britain of Don Manuel Gonzales, late Merchant + of the City of Lisbon._--"Some say Defoe wrote this book himself; it + is evidently from the pen of an Englishman."--_Lowndes' + Bibliographers' Manual._ Bohn's Edition. + +[1121] _Annual Register._ + +[1122] See _Britannia Depicta_, by John Owen, Gent. Lond. 1764, and others. + +[1123] In 1785 there appears in the _Gentleman's Magazine_* "An essay on + the cause and prevention of deformity among the lace-makers of Bucks + and North Hants," suggesting improved ventilation and various other + remedies long since adopted by the lace-working population in all + countries. + + * In 1761 appeared a previous paper, "to prevent the effects of + stooping and vitiated air," etc. + +[1124] _Dict. of Commerce._ + +[1125] In Flanders also these glasses were made and used. The "mediæval + 'ourinals' are alike the retorts of the alchemist and the + water-globes of the poor Flemish flax-thread spinners and lace + makers." _Old English Glasses._ A. Hartshorne. + +[1126] The larger pins had heads put to them with seeds of _galium_ locally + called Hariffe or goose-grass; the seeds when fingered became hard + and polished. + +[1127] Bobbins are usually made of bone, wood or ivory. English bobbins are + of bone or wood, and especially in the counties of Bedford, Bucks, + and Huntingdon, the set on a lace pillow formed a homely record of + their owner's life. The names of her family, dates and records, + births and marriages and mottoes, were carved, burnt, or stained on + the bobbin, while events of general interest were often commemorated + by the addition of a new bobbin. The _spangles_, _jingles_ (or + _gingles_) fastened to the end of the bobbin have a certain + interest; a waistcoat button and a few coral beads brought from + overseas, a family relic in the shape of an old copper seal, or an + ancient and battered coin--such things as these were often attached + to the ring of brass wire passed through a hole in the bobbin. The + inscriptions on the bobbins are sometimes burned and afterwards + stained, and sometimes "pegged" or traced in tiny leaden studs, and + consist of such mottoes as "Love me Truley" (_sic_), "Buy the Ring," + "Osborne for Ever," "Queen Caroline," "Let no false Lover win my + heart," "To me, my dear, you may come near," "Lovely Betty," "Dear + Mother," and so forth.--R. E. Head. "Some notes on Lace-Bobbins." + _The Reliquary_, July, 1900. + +[1128] Too much stress cannot be laid on the importance of using fine linen + thread. Many well-meant efforts are entirely ruined by the coarse + woolly cotton thread used for what ought to be a fine make of lace. + That good thread can be got in Great Britain is evident from the + fact that the Brussels dealers employ English thread, and sell it to + Venice for the exquisite work of Burano. Needless to say, no + Englishman has attempted to make a bid for the direct custom of the + 8,000 lace-workers there employed. + +[1129] Catalogue of lace (Victoria and Albert Museum). + +[1130] _The Conversion and Experience of Mary Hurll', or Hurdle, of + Marlborough, a maker of bone lace in this town_, by the Rev. ---- + Hughes, of that town. + +[1131] Waylen's _History of Marlborough_. + +[1132] "At Bland, on the Stour, between Salisbury and Dorchester, they made + the finest lace in England, valued at £30 per yard."--_Universal + Dict. of Trade and Commerce._ 1774. + +[1133] "Much bone lace was made here, and the finest point in England, + equal, if not superior, to that of Flanders, and valued at £30 per + yard till the beginning of this century."--_Hutchins' Hist. of the + County of Dorset._ 2nd Edition, 1796. + +[1134] What this celebrated point was we cannot ascertain. Two samplars + sent to us as Blandford point were of geometric pattern resembling + the samplar, Fig. 5. + +[1135] In 1752. + +[1136] Roberts' _Hist. of Lyme Regis_. + +[1137] Burd, Genest, Raymunds, Brock, Couch, Gerard, Murck, Stocker, + Maynard, Trump, Groot, etc. + +[1138] "We may rather infer that laces of silk and coarse thread were + already fabricated in Devonshire, as elsewhere; and that the + Flemings, on their arrival, having introduced the fine thread, then + spun almost exclusively in their own country, from that period the + trade of bone-lace-making flourished in the southern as well as in + the midland counties of England" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869). + +[1139] Ker's _Synopsis_, written about the year 1561. Two copies of this + MS. exist, one in the library of Lord Haldon at Haldon House (Co. + Devon), the other in the British Museum. This MS. was never printed, + but served as an authority for Westcote and others. + +[1140] "She was a daughter of John Flay, Vicar of Buckrell, near Honiton, + who by will in 1614 bequeaths certain lands to Jerom Minify (_sic_), + son of Jerom Minify, of Burwash, Sussex, who married his only + daughter."--Prince's _Worthies of Devon_. 1701. + + Up to a recent date the Honiton lace-makers were mostly of Flemish + origin. Mrs. Stocker, _ob._ 1769; Mr. J. Stocker, + 1788, and four + daughters; Mrs. Mary Stocker, + 179-; Mr. Gerard, + 1799, and + daughter; Mrs. Lydia Maynard (of Anti-Gallican celebrity), + 1786; + Mrs. Ann Brock, + 1815; Mrs. Elizabeth Humphrey, + 1790, whose + family had been in the lace manufacture 150 years and more. The + above list has been furnished to the author by Mrs. Frank Aberdein, + whose grandfather was for many years in the trade. Mrs. Treadwin, of + Exeter, found an old lace-worker using a lace "Turn" for winding + sticks, having the date 1678 rudely carved on the foot, showing how + the trade was continued in the same family from generation to + generation. + +[1141] _View of Devon._ T. Westcote. + +[1142] Her bequest is called "Minifie's Gift." + +[1143] Here follows the numbers of the people in a few places who get their + living by making lace. Among those quoted in Devonshire as + interesting to compare with the present day are:-- + + "Coumbraligh 65, Sidmont 302, Axmouth 73, Sidbury 321, Buckerall 90, + Farway 70, Utpotery 118, Branscombe Beare and Seaton 326, Honyton + 1341, Axminster 60, Otery St. Mary, 814." + +[1144] Church Book of the Baptist Chapel of Lyme Regis. + +[1145] Colyton and Ottery St. Mary were among the first. Wherever the say + or serge decayed, the lace trade planted itself. + + In the church of Colyton, under a fine canopied tomb, repose back to + back in most unsociable fashion the recumbent figures of Sir John + and Lady Pole. "Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Roger How, merchant of + London, ob. 1623," wears a splendid cape of three rows of bone lace + descending to the waist. Her cap is trimmed with the same material. + As this lace may be of Devonshire fabric, we give a wood-cut of the + pattern (Fig. 150). + + Sundry Flemish names may still be seen above the shop-windows of + Colyton similar to those of Honiton--Stocker, Murch, Spiller, + Rochett, Boatch, Kettel, Woram, and others. + +[1146] Don Manuel Gonzales mentions "bone lace" among the commodities of + Devon. + +[1147] The lace manufacture now extends along the coast from the small + watering-place of Seaton, by Beer, Branscombe, Salcombe, Sidmouth, + and Ollerton, to Exmouth, including the Vale of Honiton and the + towns above mentioned. + +[1148] 1753. + +[1149] _Complete System of Geography._ Emanuel Bowen, 1747. + + This extract is repeated verbatim in _England's Gazetteer_, by + Philip Luckombe. London, 1790. + +[1150] Died 1398. + +[1151] The best _réseau_ was made by hand with the needle, and was much + more expensive. + +[1152] Mrs. Aberdein, of Honiton, informed Mrs. Palliser that her father + often paid ninety-five guineas per lb. for the thread from Antwerp + (1869). + +[1153] The manner of payment was somewhat Phoenician, reminding one of + Queen Dido and her bargain. The lace ground was spread out on the + counter, and the worker herself desired to cover it with shillings; + and as many coins as found place on her work she carried away as the + fruit of her labour. The author once calculated the cost, after this + fashion, of a small lace veil on real ground, said to be one of the + first ever fabricated. It was 12 inches wide and 30 inches long, + and, making allowance for the shrinking caused by washing, the value + amounted to £20, which proved to be exactly the sum originally paid + for the veil. The ground of this veil, though perfect in its + workmanship, is of a much wider mesh than was made in the last days + of the fabric. It was the property of Mrs. Chick. + +[1154] "The last specimen of 'real' ground made in Devon was the marriage + veil of Mrs. Marwood Tucker. It was with the greatest difficulty + workers could be procured to make it. The price paid for the ground + alone was 30 guineas" (1869). + +[1155] With the desire of combining the two interests, her Majesty ordered + it to be made on the Brussels (machine-made) ground. + +[1156] _A_MARANTH, _D_APHNE, _E_GLANTINE, _L_ILAC, _A_URICULA, _I_VY, + _D_AHLIA, _E_GLANTINE. + +[1157] The workers of Beer, Axmouth, and Branscombe, have always been + considered the best in the trade. + +[1158] Exposition Universelle de 1867. Rapport du Jury International, + "Dentelles," par Felix Aubry. + +[1159] For the encouragement of Agriculture, Arts, Manufactures, and + Commerce. The prizes were offered for the best Sprigs, Nosegays, + Borders for shawls, veils, or collars, Lappets, collars and cuffs, + Pocket-handkerchiefs, etc., "of good workmanship and design, worked + either in Flowers, Fruits, Leaves, or Insects, strictly designed + from nature." Three prizes were awarded for each description of + article. The Society also offered prizes for small application + sprigged veils, and for the best specimens of braidwork, in + imitation of Spanish point. + +[1160] _Honiton Lace_, by Mrs. Treadwin. London, 1874. _Honiton + Lace-making_, by Devonia, London, 1874. + +[1161] Lappets and scarfs were made of trolly lace from an early date. Mrs. + Delarey, in one of her letters, dated 1756, speaks of a "trolly + head." Trolly lace, before its downfall, has been sold at the + extravagant price of five guineas a yard. + +[1162] "Fifty years since Devonshire workers still make a 'Greek' lace, as + they termed it, similar to the 'dentelles torchons' so common + through the Continent. The author has seen specimens of this fabric + in a lace-maker's old pattern-book, once the property of her mother" + (Mrs. Palliser, 1869). + +[1163] Though no longer employed at lace-making, the boys in the schools at + Exmouth are instructed in crochet work (1869). + +[1164] Of Otterton. + +[1165] In Woodbury will be found a small colony of lace-makers who are + employed in making imitation Maltese or Greek lace, a fabric + introduced into Devon by order of her late Majesty the Queen Dowager + on her return from Malta. The workers copy these coarse geometric + laces with great facility and precision. Among the various cheap + articles to which the Devonshire workers have of late directed their + labours is the tape or braid lace, and the shops of the country are + now inundated with their productions in the form of collars and + cuffs (1869.) + +[1166] The Honiton pillows are rather smaller than those for + Buckinghamshire lace, and do not have the multiplicity of starched + coverings--only three "pill cloths," one over the top, and another + on each side of the lace in progress; two pieces of horn called + "sliders" go between to take the weight of the bobbins from dragging + the stitches in progress; a small square pin-cushion is on one side, + and stuck into the pillow is the "needle-pin"--a large sewing needle + in a wooden handle, and for picking up loops through which the + bobbins are placed. The pillow has to be frequently turned round in + the course of the work, so that no stand is used, and it is rested + against a table or doorway; and formerly, in the golden days, in + fine weather there would be rows of workers sitting outside their + cottages resting their "pills" against the back of the chair in + front. + + The bobbins used in Honiton lace-making are delicately-fashioned + slender things of smooth, close-grained wood, their length averaging + about three and a half inches. They have no "gingles," and none of + the carving and relief inlayings of the Buckinghamshire and + Bedfordshire bobbins; but some of them are curiously stained with a + brown pigment in an irregular pattern resembling the mottlings of + clouded bamboo or those of tortoise-shell. + +[1167] "The author has visited many lace-schools in Devon, and though it + might be desired that some philanthropist would introduce the infant + school system of allowing the pupils to march and stretch their + limbs at the expiration of every hour, the children, + notwithstanding, looked ruddy as the apples in their native + orchards; and though the lace-worker may be less robust in + appearance than the farm-servant or the Cheshire milkmaid, her life + is more healthy far than the female operative in our northern + manufactories" (1875). + +[1168] "A good lace-maker easily earns her shilling a day, but in most + parts of Devonshire the work is paid by the truck system, many of + the more respectable shops giving one-half in money, the remaining + sixpence to be taken out in tea or clothing, sold often considerably + above their value. Other manufacturers--to their shame, be it + told--pay their workers altogether in grocery, and should the + lace-maker, from illness or any other cause, require an advance in + cash, she is compelled to give work to the value of fourteen-pence + for every shilling she receives. Some few houses pay their workers + in money" (1875). + +[1169] Medals were won at the Chicago World's Fair for Devonshire lace by + Mrs. Fowler and Miss Radford, of Sidmouth. The latter has also + received the freedom of the City of London for a beautiful lace fan, + her sprigs being the finest and most exquisite models of flowers and + birds it is possible to produce in lace. A third medal was won by + the Italian laces at Beer. + +[1170] Those held at Sidbury and Sidford are very successful, and the + children, ranging in age from, nine to fifteen, come regularly for + their "lace." It is interesting to watch the improvement in the work + of the "flys," the first lesson, and as a rule each child makes + forty to fifty before going on to anything further. + +[1171] At Beer, where fishing is the staple industry, in bad fish seasons + the women can earn more than the men; and at Honiton in the hard + winter of 1895 the lace-makers kept themselves and their families, + and were spared applying for relief--all honour to their skill and + self-helpfulness. + +[1172] "1539. Ane uther gowne of purpour satyne with ane braid pasment of + gold and silver," etc. + + "Twa Spanye cloikis of black freis with ane braid pasment of gold + and silver." + + "1542. Three peces of braid pasmentes of gold and + silver."--_Inventories of the Royal Wardrobe and Jewel House._ + 1488-1606. Edinb. 1815. + +[1173] 1542. Same Inv. + +[1174] In the Inv. of the Earl of Huntley, 1511-12, there is mention of + dresses "passamenté d'or." + +[1175] Chap. X., note. + + 1537. James V. and Lord Somerville at Holyrood:--"Where are all your + men and attendants, my Lord?" + + "Please, your Majesty, they are here"--pointing to the lace which + was on his son and two pages' dress. The King laughed heartily and + surveyed the finery, and bade him "Away with it all, and let him + have his stout band of spears again." + +[1176] Croft's _Excerpta Antiqua_. + + The Countess of Mar, daughter of the first Duke of Lennox and + granddaughter by her mother's side to Marie Touchet. She was + daughter-in-law to the preceptress of James VI., and in 1593 had the + honour, at the baptism of Prince Henry, of lifting the child from + his bed and delivering him to the Duke of Lennox. A portrait of this + lady, in the high Elizabethan ruff, and with a "forepart" and tucker + of exquisite raised Venice point, hung (circ. 1870) in the + drawing-room of the late Miss Katherine Sinclair. + +[1177] "Une robe de velours vert couverté de Broderies, gimpeures, et + cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même. + + "Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent. + + "Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure + d'or. + + "Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc. + + "Robe de weloux noyr semée de geynpeurs d'or."--_Inv. of + Lillebourg._ 1561. + +[1178] "Chamarrée de bisette."--_Inv. of Lillebourg._ 1561. + + "Ane rabbat of wolvin thread with passmentet with silver." + +[1179] Chap. III. + +[1180] See LACIS, Chap. II. + +[1181] See NEEDLEWORK, Chap. I. + +[1182] Her lace ruffs Mary appears to have had from France, as we may infer + from a letter written by Walsingham, at Paris, to Burleigh, when the + Queen was captive at Sheffield Castle, 1578: "I have of late granted + a passport to one that conveyeth a box of linen to the Queen of + Scots, who leaveth not this town for three or four days. I think + your Lordship shall see somewhat written on some of the linen + contained in the same, that shall be worth the reading. Her Majesty, + under colour of seeing the fashion of the _ruffes_, may cause the + several parcels of the linen to be held to the fire, whereby the + writing may appear; for I judge there will be some such matter + discovered, which was the cause why I did the more willingly grant + the passport." + +[1183] In 1575. + +[1184] There was some demur about receiving the nightcaps, for Elizabeth + declared "that great commotions had taken place in the Privy Council + because she had accepted the gifts of the Queen of Scots. They + therefore remained for some time in the hands of La Mothe, the + ambassador, but were finally accepted."--Miss Strickland. + +[1185] "Inventaire of our Soveraine Lord and his dearest moder. + 1578."--Record Office, Edinburgh. + +[1186] _Records of Life_, by Miss H. Pigott. 1839. + +[1187] Similar to the New Year's Gift of the Baroness Aletti to Queen + Elizabeth:-- + + "A veil of lawn cutwork flourished with silver and divers + colours."--Nichols' _Royal Progresses._ + +[1188] "Twa quaiffs ane of layn and uther of woving thread. + + Ane quaiff of layn with twa cornettes sewitt with cuttit out werk of + gold and silver. + + Twa pair of cornettes of layn sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold. + + Ane wovin collar of thread passementit with incarnit and blew silk + and silver."--_Inv. of 1578._ + +[1189] "Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk and gold and cramoisie silk with the + handis (cuffs) thereof. + + Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk of gold and black silk. + + Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk with purpure silk with the handis of + the same."--_Ibid._ + +[1190] "Twa towell claiths of holane claith sewitt with cuttit out werk and + gold. + + Four napkinnes of holane claith and cammaraye sewitt with cuttit out + werk of gold and silver and divers cullours of silk."--_Ibid._ + +[1191] Published by Prince Labanoff. "Recueil de Lettres de Marie Stuart." + T. vii., p. 247. + +[1192] _Marriage Expenses of James VI._, 1589. Published by the Bannatyne + Club. + +[1193] _Accounts of the Great Chamberlain of Scotland._ 1590.--Bannatyne + Club. + +[1194] In 1581, 1597, and 1621. + +[1195] The same privilege was extended to their wives, their eldest sons + with their wives, and their eldest daughters, but not to the younger + children. + +[1196] 1633. In the _Account of Expenses for the young Lord of Lorne_, we + find:-- + + "2 ells Cambridg' at 8s. the ell for ruffles, 16s. + + "2 ells of Perling at 30s., the uther at 33s. 4d., £3 3s. + 4d."--Innes' _Sketches of Early Scotch History._ + +[1197] January, 1686. + +[1198] "In 1701, when Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of + Kilravock, married, 'flounced muslin and lace for combing cloths,' + appear in her outfit."--Innes' _Sketches_. + +[1199] In a pamphlet published 1702, entitled, _An Accompt carried between + England and Scotland_, alluding to the encouragement of the yarn + trade, the author says: "This great improvement can be attested by + the industry of many young gentlewomen that have little or no + portion, by spinning one pound of fine lint, and then breaking it + into fine flax and whitening it. One gentlewoman told me herself + that, by making an ounce or two of it into fine bone lace, it was + worth, or she got, twenty pounds Scots for that part of it; and + might, after same manner, five or eight pounds sterling out of a + pound of lint, that cost her not one shilling sterling. Now if a law + were made not to import any muslin (her Grace the Duchess of + Hamilton still wears our finest Scots muslin as a pattern to + others--she who may wear the finest apparel) and Holland lace, it + would induce and stir up many of all ranks to wear more fine 'Scots + lace,' which would encourage and give bread to many young + gentlewomen and help their fortunes." Then, among the products of + Scotland by which "we may balance any nation," the same writer + mentions "our white thread, and making laces." + + "On Tuesday, the 16th inst., will begin the roup of several sorts of + merchants' goods, in the first story of the Turnpyke, above the head + of Bells Wynd, from 9 to 12 and 2 till 5. 'White thread + lace.'"--_Edinburgh Courant._ 1706. + +[1200] See Chap. XXV., Queen Anne. + +[1201] _Edinburgh Advertiser._ 1764. + +[1202] 1745. The following description of Lady Lovat, wife of the rebel + Simon, is a charming picture of a Scotch gentlewoman of the last + century:-- + + "When at home her dress was a red silk gown with ruffled cuffs and + sleeves puckered like a man's shirt, a fly cap of lace encircling + her head, with a mob cap laid across it, falling down on the cheeks; + her hair dressed and powdered; a lace handkerchief round the neck + and bosom (termed by the Scotch a _Befong_)--a white apron edged + with lace.... Any one who saw her sitting on her chair, so neat, + fresh, and clean, would have taken her for a queen in wax-work + placed in a glass case."--_Heart of Midlothian._ + + Sir Walter Scott, whose descriptions are invariably drawn from + memory, in his _Chronicles of the Canongate_, describes the + dressing-room of Mrs. Bethune Balliol as exhibiting a superb mirror + framed in silver filigree-work, a beautiful toilet, the cover of + which was of Flanders lace. + +[1203] _Heart of Midlothian._ + +[1204] _Statistical Account of Scotland._ Sir John Sinclair. Edinburgh, + 1792. Vol. ii., 198. + +[1205] _Edinburgh Amusement._ + +[1206] 1755. Premium £2 offered. "For the whitest, best, and finest lace, + commonly called Hamilton lace, and of the best pattern, not under + two yards in length and not under three inches in breadth." + +[1207] The Edinburgh Society did not confine their rewards to Hamilton + lace; imitation of Dresden, catgut lace, gold, silver, and even + livery lace, each met with its due reward. + + 1758. For imitation of lace done on catgut, for ruffles, a gold + medal to Miss Anne Cant, Edinburgh. + + For a piece of livery lace done to perfection to J. Bowie, 2 + guineas. + + To W. Bowie for a piece of gold and silver lace, 2 guineas. + +[1208] 1769. Pennant, in his _Tour_, mentions among the manufactures of + Scotland thread laces at Leith, Hamilton and Dalkeith. + +[1209] In 1762, Dec. 9, a schoolmistress in Dundee, among thirty-one + accomplishments in which she professes to instruct her pupils, such + as "waxwork, boning fowls without cutting the back," etc., + enumerates, No. 21, "True point or tape lace," as well as "washing + Flanders lace and point." + + Again, in 1764, Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell advertise in their + boarding-school "lacework and the washing of blonde laces; the + pupils' own laces washed and got up at home. Terms £24." + + At Miss Glen's boarding-school in the Trunk Close, 1768, young + ladies are taught "white and coloured seam and washing of + lace"--gratis. + + These lady-teachers were not appointed in Scotland without giving + due proofs of their capacity. In 1758 the magistrates and council of + Aberdeen, being unanimous as to the "strict morality, Dresden work, + modesty, and catgut lace-making," etc., of Miss Betsey Forbes, + elected her to the office of schoolmistress of the city. + + In _The Cottagers of Glenburnie_ a lady, Mrs. Mason, tells a long + story of the young laird having torn a suit of lace she was busied + in getting up. + +[1210] _Edinburgh Advertiser._ + +[1211] 1774. "Several punds of badly-spun yarn was burnt by the stamp + master in Montrose." This announcement constantly occurs. + +[1212] About this period a Mr. Brotherton, of Leith, seems to have made a + discovery which was but a prelude to the bobbin net. It is thus + described in the _Weekly Magazine_ of 1772:--"A new invention has + lately been discovered by Mr. Brotherton, in Leith, for working + black silk lace or white thread lace on a loom, to imitate any + pattern whatever, and the lace done in this way looks fully as well + as if sewed, and comes much cheaper. It is done any breadth, from + three inches to three-quarters of a yard wide." + +[1213] In 1775 Dallas, Barclay & Co., advertise a selling off of fine + point, Brussels thread, blond, and black laces of all kinds, silver + double edged lace, etc.--_Edinburgh Advertiser._ + + 1775. "Black blonde and thread laces, catguts of all sorts, just + arrived from the India House in London in the + Canongate."--_Caledonian Mercury._ + + "Fashions for January; dresses trimmed with Brussels point or + Mignonette."--_Ibid._ Same year. + +[1214] "Madame Puteau carries on a lace manufacture after the manner of + Mechlin and Brussels. She had lately twenty-two apprentices from the + Glasgow Hospital.... Mrs. Puteau has as much merit in this branch as + has her husband in the making of fine thread. This he manufactures + of such a fineness as to be valued at £10 the pound + weight."--_Essays on the Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, Fisheries, + etc., of Scotland._ David Loch. 1778. + +[1215] "If you look at the wardrobes of your grandmother, you will perceive + what revolutions have happened in taste of mankind for laces and + other fineries of that sort. How many suits of this kind do you meet + with that cost amazing sums, which are now, and have long since + been, entirely useless. In our own day did we not see that in one + year Brussels laces are most in fashion and purchased at any price, + while the next perhaps they are entirely laid aside, and French or + other thread laces, or fine sewings, the names of which I know not, + highly prized."--_Observations on the National Industry of + Scotland._ Anderson. 1778. + +[1216] Lace-making at Hamilton is now a thing of the past, replaced in the + nineteenth century by a tambour network for veils, scarfs and + flounces. + +[1217] _Essay on the Dress of the Early Irish._ J. C. Walker. 1788. + +[1218] _The Image of Irelande_, by Jhon Derricke. 1578. + +[1219] In 1562. See Camden. _Hist. Eliz._ + +[1220] Henry VIII. 1537. Against Irish fashions. Not "to weare any shirt, + smock, kerchor, bendel, neckerchour, mocket, or linen cappe colored + or dyed with saffron," and not to use more than seven yards of linen + in their shirts or smocks. + +[1221] 4 Edw. IV., Harl MSS. No. 1419. _b.-g._ 494. + +[1222] That lace ruffs soon appeared in Ireland may be proved by the effigy + on a tomb still extant in the Abbey of Clonard, in which the Dillon + arms are conspicuous, and also by paintings of the St. Lawrence + family, _circ._ 1511, preserved at Howth Castle. + + In the portrait at Muckruss of the Countess of Desmond she is + represented with a lace collar. It was taken, as stated at the back + of the portrait, "as she appeared at the court of King James, 1614, + and in y^e 140th year of her age." Thither she went to endeavour to + reverse the attainder of her house. + +[1223] At the end of the last century there lived at Creaden, near + Waterford, a lady of the name of Power, lineal descendant of the + kings of Munster, and called the Queen of Creaden. She affected the + dress of the ancient Irish. The border of her coif was of the finest + Irish-made Brussels lace; her jacket of the finest brown cloth + trimmed with gold lace; her petticoat of the finest scarlet cloth + bordered with a row of broad gold lace; all her dress was of Irish + manufacture. + +[1224] _Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack_, by G. Watson. Dublin, 1757. + +[1225] "The freedom of the city of Dublin was also conferred upon her, + presented in due form in a silver box as a mark of esteem for her + great charities and constant care of the Foundling children in the + city workhouse."--_Dublin Freeman's Journal_, July 30th, 1765. + +[1226] _Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack_, by Samuel Watson. 1773. + +[1227] "The Lady Arabella Denny died 1792, aged 85; she was second daughter + of Thomas Fitzmaurice, Earl of Kerry. The Irish Academy, in + acknowledgment of her patriotic exertions, offered a prize of 100 + guineas for the best monody on her death. It was gained by John + Macaulay, Esq."--_Dublin Freeman's Journal_, July 20th, 1766. + +[1228] Wakefield writes in 1812: "Lace is not manufactured to a large + extent in Ireland. I saw some poor children who were taught weaving + by the daughters of a clergyman, and Mr. Tighe mentions a school in + Kilkenny where twelve girls were instructed in the art. At + Abbey-leix there is a lace manufacture, but the quantity made is not + of any importance."--_Account of Ireland. Statistical and + Political._ Edw. Wakefield. 1812. + +[1229] _Pall Mall Gazette_, May 8th, 1897. + +[1230] Walker was a man of literary and artistic tastes, and educated for + the Church, but, marrying the daughter of a lace-manufacturer, he + set up in that business in Essex, working for the London wholesale + trade. He removed next to Limerick, where he continued till 1841, + when he sold the business, but his successor becoming bankrupt, he + never received the purchase money, and died 1842, his ingenuity and + industry ill-rewarded. In some work (we have lost the reference) it + is stated that "Coggeshall, in Essex, made a tambour lace, a sort of + medium between lace and embroidery." Could this be Walker's + manufacture? + +[1231] In 1855 the number of workers employed numbered 1,500. In 1869 there + were less than 500. In 1869 Mrs. Palliser writes of the tambour lace + industry: "The existing depression of the trade has been partly + caused by the emigration of girls to America and the colonies, while + glove-making and army clothing employ the rest; and indeed the + manufacture aiming only at cheapness had produced a lace of inferior + quality, without either novelty or beauty of design, from which + cause Limerick lace has fallen into disrepute." + +[1232] No account of Limerick lace would be complete which does not make + some reference to the work of the Sisters of Mercy at Kinsale, Co. + Cork, where so much is now being done to revive those industries + which were originally started with the object of coping with the + famine of 1846. This revival is largely due to Mr. A. S. Cole, who + originally suggested the establishment of an art class in connection + with South Kensington, with Mr. Brennar, of the Cork School of Art, + as its master. The studio is in connection with the workroom, which + secures constant touch between the designing, alteration, and + adaptation of patterns and their execution. (_Pall Mall Gazette_, + May 8th, 1897.) + +[1233] Various schools have been established throughout Ireland. Lady de + Vere taught the mistress of a school on her own demesne at Curragh, + Co. Limerick, the art of making application flowers, giving her own + Brussels lace as patterns. The work was so good as soon to command a + high price, and the late Queen of the Belgians actually purchased a + dress of it at Harding's, and took it back with her to Brussels, The + fabric is known by the name of "Irish" or "Curragh point." + + The school set up at Belfast by the late Jane Clarke exhibited in + 1851 beautiful imitations of the old Spanish and Italian points; + amongst others a specimen of the fine raised Venetian point, which + can scarcely be distinguished from the original. It is now in the + Vict. and Albert Museum (1869). + +[1234] From the tradition that a Jesuit procured the first Venetian lace + pattern used in Ireland. + +[1235] It was in the famine period that the Rector of Headford, Co. Galway, + brought about a revival of the pillow lace, which was known to a few + women in the county--taught, according to the tradition, by a + soldier from foreign parts at some unknown date. This work is now + reviving, thanks to the energetic care of Mrs. Dawson. + +[1236] Mr. A. S. Cole gives the following classification of Irish laces:-- + + There are seven sorts of Irish lace. + + 1. Flat needle-point lace. + + 2. Raised needle-point lace. + + 3. Embroidery on net, either darning or chain-stitch. + + 4. Cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqué + lace. + + 5. Drawn thread-work in the style of Reticella, and Italian cut + points. + + 6. Pillow lace in imitation of Devon lace. + + 7. Crochet. + +[1237] _History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture._ W. + Felkin. London, 1867. + +[1238] See GERMANY. + +[1239] An open stitch on stockings, called the "Derby rib," had been + invented by Jedediah Strutt, in 1758. + +[1240] By Rev. William Lee, of Calverton (Nottinghamshire). The romantic + story is well known; but whether actuated, as usually stated, by + pique at the absorbing attention paid to her knitting by a lady, + when he was urging his suit--or, as others more amiably affirm, by a + desire to lighten the labour of his wife, who was obliged to + contribute to their joint support by knitting stockings--certain it + is that it was he who first conceived the idea of the + stocking-frame, and completed it about 1589. His invention met with + no support from Queen Elizabeth, so Lee went to France, where he was + well received by Henry IV.; but the same year Henry was + assassinated, and the Regent withdrawing her protection, Lee died of + grief and disappointment. The arms of the Framework Knitters' + Company (Fig. 162) are a stocking-frame, having for supporters + William Lee in full canonicals and a female holding in her hand + thread and a knitting-needle. After Lee's death his brother returned + to England, where Lee's invention was then appreciated. + Stocking-making became the fashion, everyone tried, it, and people + had their portraits taken with gold and silver needles suspended + round their necks. + +[1241] Vandyke had also appended the chain to his stocking-frame, and the + zigzags formed by the ribs of his stockings were called "Vandyke," + hence the term now generally applied to all indented edges. + +[1242] Mechlin net was disused in 1819 from its too great elasticity. + +[1243] The "bobbins" on which the thread is wound for the weft consist of + two circular copper plates riveted together, and fixed upon a small + carriage or frame which moves backwards and forwards like a weaver's + shuttle. + +[1244] The Old Loughboro' employed sixty movements to form one mesh--a + result now obtained by twelve. It produced 1,000 meshes a + minute--then thought a wonderful achievement, as by the pillow only + five or six can be obtained. A good circular machine now produces + 30,000 in the same time. + + The quality of bobbin net depends upon the smallness of the meshes, + their equality in size, and the regularity of the hexagons. + +[1245] Bobbin net is measured by the "rack," which consists of 240 meshes. + This mode of counting was adopted to avoid the frequent + disagreements about measure which arose between the master and the + workmen in consequence of the elasticity of the net. The exchange of + linen to cotton thread was the source of great regret to the Roman + Catholic clergy, who by ecclesiastical law can only wear albs of + flax. + +[1246] This association was formed by Ludlam, or General Ludd, as he was + called, a stocking-frame worker at Nottingham in 1811, when prices + had fallen. The Luddites, their faces covered with a black veil, + armed with swords and pistols, paraded the streets at night, entered + the workshops, and broke the machines with hammers. A thousand + machines were thus destroyed. Soon the net-workers joined them and + made a similar destruction of the bobbin net machines. Although many + were punished, it was only with the return of work that the society + disappeared in 1817. + +[1247] Heathcoat represented Tiverton from 1834 to 1859, colleague of Lord + Palmerston. + + Steam power was first introduced by Mr. J. Lindley in 1815-16, but + did not come into active operation till 1820; it became general + 1822-23. + +[1248] McCulloch. + +[1249] The most extraordinary changes took place in the price of the + finished articles. Lace which was sold by Heathcoat for 5 guineas a + yard soon after the taking out of his patent can now be equalled at + eighteenpence a yard; quillings, as made by a newly-constructed + machine in 1810, and sold at 4s. 6d., can now be equalled and + excelled at 1½d. a yard; while a certain width of net which brought + £17 per piece 20 years ago is now sold for 7s. (1843). Progressive + value of a square yard of plain cotton bobbin net: + + £ s. s. d. + 1809 5 0 1830 2 0 + 1813 2 0 1833 1 4 + 1815 1 10 1836 0 10 + 1818 1 0 1842 0 6 + 1821 0 12 1850 0 4 + 1824 0 8 1856 0 3 + 1827 0 4 1862 0 3 + + _Histoire du Tulle et des Dentelles mécaniques en Angleterre et en + France_, par S. Ferguson fils. Paris, 1862. + + "Bobbin net and lace are cleaned from the loose fibres of the cotton + by the ingenious process of gassing, as it is called, invented by + the late Mr. Samuel Hall, of Nottingham. A flame of gas is drawn + through the lace by means of a vacuum above. The sheet of lace + passes to the flame opaque and obscured by loose fibre, and issues + from it bright and clear, not to be distinguished from lace made of + the purest linen thread, and perfectly uninjured by the + flame."--_Journal of the Society of Arts._ Jan., 1864. + +[1250] In 1826 Mr. Huskisson's reduction of the duty on French tulle caused + so much distress in Leicester and Nottingham, that ladies were + desired to wear only English tulle at court; and in 1831 Queen + Adelaide appeared at one of her balls in a dress of English silk + net. + +[1251] John Hindres, in 1656, first established a stocking-frame in France. + +[1252] The net produced was called "Tulle simple et double de Lyon et de + Vienne." The net was single loops, hence the name of "single press," + given to these primitive frames. + +[1253] In 1801 George Armitage took a "point net" machine to Antwerp, and + made several after the same model, thus introducing the manufacture + into Belgium. He next went to Paris, but the wholesale contraband + trade of Hayne left him no hope of success. He afterwards went to + Prussia to set up net and stocking machines. At the age of + eighty-two he started for Australia, where he died, in 1857, aged + eighty-nine. + +[1254] The great difficulty encountered by the French manufacturers + consisted in the cotton. France did not furnish cotton higher than + No. 70; the English ranges from 160 to 200. The prohibition of + English cotton obliged them to obtain it by smuggling until 1834, + when it was admitted on paying a duty. Now they make their own, and + are able to rival Nottingham in the prices of their productions. A + great number of Nottingham lace-makers have emigrated to Calais. + +[1255] The Caen blond first suggested the idea. + +[1256] The first net frame was set up at Brussels in 1801. Others followed + at Termonde, 1817; Ghent, 1828; Sainte Fosse, etc. + +[1257] D. Wyatt. + +[1258] Mr. Ferguson, the inventor of the bullet-hole, square net (tulle + carré), and wire-ground (point de champ ou de Paris), had + transferred his manufacture, in 1838, from Nottingham to Cambrai, + where, in partnership with M. Jourdan, he made the "dentelle de + Cambrai," and in 1852 the "lama" lace, which differs from the + Cambrai inasmuch as the weft (_trame_) is made of mohair instead of + silk. Mr. Ferguson next established himself at Amiens, where he + brought out the Yak, another mixed lace. + +[1259] The first patents were:-- + + 1836. Hind and Draper took out one in France, and 1837 in England. + + 1838. Ferguson takes a patent at Cambrai under the name of his + partner Jourdan. + + 1839. Crofton. + + 1841. Houston and Deverill, for the application of the Jacquard to + the Leaver machine. The great manufactures of Nottingham and Calais + are made on the Leaver Jacquard frame. + + The first patterned net was produced, 1780, by E. Frost, the + embroidery made by hand. + +[1260] Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making. A. S. Cole. 1880. + +[1261] "The machines now in use are the Circular, Leaver, Transverse Warp + and Pusher. Out of 3,552 machines computed to be in England in 1862 + 2,448 were at Nottingham."--_International Exhibition, Juror's + Report._ + +[1262] _Daphne lagetta._ + +[1263] He makes a paste of the plant which is the usual food of the + caterpillar, and spreads it thinly over a stone or other flat + substance; then with a camel's-hair pencil dipped in olive oil he + draws upon the coating of paste the pattern he wishes the insects to + leave open. The stone being placed in an inclined position, the + caterpillars* are laid at the bottom, and the animals eat and spin + their way up to the top, carefully avoiding every part touched by + the oil, but devouring the rest of the paste.--_Encyclopædia + Britannica._ + + * _Phalæna pandilla._ + +[1264] Two interesting papers were published in the _Gazette des Beaux + Arts_ for 1863 and 1864, entitled, "Essai bibliographique sur les + anciens dessins de dentelles, modèles de tapisseries, patrons de + broderies et publiés le xvi. et le xvii. siècle," &c, by the Marquis + Girolamo d'Addo, of Milan. + +[1265] Cambridge University Library. + +[1266] Paris, Bibliothèque Nat. Gravures, L. h. 13 d.* + +[1267] Bib. Nat. V. 1897.*--Genoa. Cav. Merli, 1528 (?). + +[1268] Paris, Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,952.* + +[1269] Oxford, Bib. Bodleian. + +[1270] Milan, Cavaliere Bertini. + +[1271] Venice, Library of St. Mark. + +[1272] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 13. e.* + +[1273] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,951.* + +[1274] Silvestre, _Marques Typographiques des Imprimeurs en France, depuis + 1470_. Paris, 1853-61. + +[1275] Quoted in Cat. Cappi, of Bologna, 1829. + +[1276] Quoted in Cat. Cappi, of Bologna, 1829. + +[1277] _Ibid._ + +[1278] _Ibid._ + +[1279] Cat. Bib. Heber., part vi., p. 258. No. 3,514. + +[1280] Paris, Bib. Sainte-Geneviève. V. 634.* Bound in one volume with the + three following. (Nos. 16, 17, and 18.)--Catalogue de Livres + provenant de la Bibliothèque de M. L. D. D. L. V. (Duke de La + Vallière). Paris, 1763. T. xi., No. 2,204. + +[1281] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat. + d'Estrées. Paris, 1740-46. No. 8,843.3. + +[1282] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat. + d'Estrées. No. 8,843. 1. + +[1283] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11.953.* + +[1284] Paris, Bib. Baron Jérôme Pichon.* + +[1285] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4.* + +[1286] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. a.*--Catalogo ragionato dei libri posseduti + dal Conte di Cicognara. Pisa, 1821. No. 1,818. + +[1287] Library V. and A. Museum.--Venice, Lib. St. Mark,--Milan, Bib. + Marquis d'Adda. + +[1288] Milan, Bib. Marquis G. d'Adda. + +[1289] Rome, Bib. Prince Massimo. + +[1290] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 (with D. de Sera).* + +[1291] Genoa, Cav. Merli. + +[1292] Quoted by Cav. Merli. + +[1293] Florence. M. Bigazzi. + +[1294] Paris, Bib. Nat. Milan, Bib. Belgiosa and Marquis d'Adda. + +[1295] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Bologna, Bib. Comm.--Cat. d'Estrées. + 8843. No. 2. + +[1296] Mr. E. Arnold. + +[1297] Royal Library, Munich. + +[1298] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 4. + +[1299] Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Mr. E. Arnold. + +[1300] Florence, M. Bigazzi. + +[1301] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 1. Bound in one volume, with six others. + +[1302] _Ibid._ 1583. No. 5. + +[1303] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 6. + +[1304] _Ibid._ 1583. No. 7. + +[1305] Cat. Cicognara. No. 17 + +[1306] _Ibid._ 1583. No. 3. + +[1307] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.* + +[1308] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Mrs. Stisted. Bagni di Lucca. + +[1309] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées. + +[1310] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées. + +[1311] Trezola, in the Riviera dialect, signifies a plait-tresse. "Porta i + capei in trezola." ("She wears her hair plaited.") + +[1312] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955 _bis_,* with _Vera Perfettione_ and + _Fiori_ of F. Franceschi, and _Corona_ of Vecellio. + +[1313] Quoted by Willemin. + +[1314] Quoted in Art. "Tricot et Travaux des Dames." + +[1315] Bib. M. d'Adda. + +[1316] Dresden, New Museum for Art and Industry. Communicated by Mr. + Gruner. + +[1317] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954.* + +[1318] Milan. Bib. Marquis Girolamo d'Adda. + +[1319] Bib. Rouen. No. 1313. Both Parts in one vol.* + +[1320] We have received notice of there being a copy of the original + edition at Turin, in the Library of the University. + +[1321] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2.* (with Part I.): "Ex Bibliotheca + illustrissimi Johannis d'Estrées Cameracensis Archiepiscopi + designati quam Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis legavit. Anno 1718." + +[1322] Brussels, Bib. Roy. M. Alvin, Conservateur en Chef. + +[1323] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b.* + +[1324] Bib. Ste. Geneviève (with 1st Part).*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b. + (with 1st Part).* + +[1325] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 _bis._* + +[1326] British Museum. Grenville Lib. 2584.* + +[1327] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 1. a.* + +[1328] Brussels, Bib. Roy.--Cat. Cicognara. No. 1822. + +[1329] Quoted in Watt's Bibliographia Britannica. + +[1330] Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,954 _ter._* + +[1331] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955 _bis._*--Bib. Bodleian. + +[1332] _Ibid._ + +[1333] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955* (with Books 2 and 3). _Mazzette_ means + detached bouquets--sprigs. + +[1334] Rouen, Bib. Bound in one vol. with the three parts of the _Corona_.* + +[1335] Communicated by Mr. Gruner. + +[1336] Note of M. Leber, who gives the dates of the dedication of the Rouen + copy as follows:--B. 1, 20 Jan.; B. 2, 24 Jan.; B. 3, 15 June, all + 1591. The _Gioiello_, 10 Nov., 1592. The vol. containing the two + works has 101 plates, in addition to 10 leaves of titles, + dedications, etc. + +[1337] Victoria and Albert Museum. + +[1338] Brussels, Bib. Royale. Jean de Glen is also author of a work + entitled _Des Habits, Moeurs, Ceremonies, Façons de faire, anciennes + & modernes du Monde, par J. de Glen, Linger_. Liége. J. de Glen. + 1601. In-8. + +[1339] Lyon. M. Yemenis. + +[1340] Turin, Count Manzoni. + +[1341] Berlin, Royal Library. + +[1342] Dresden, New Museum of Art and Industry. + +[1343] Bib. Nat. V. 1902,* and Grav. L. h. 3.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. + 11,956.*--Bib. Ste. Geneviève.* + +[1344] Victoria and Albert Museum. + +[1345] Bib. Nat. Grav. B. c. 22. Vinciolo.* + +[1346] Catalogue des Livres de feu M. Picard. 1780. No. 455. + +[1347] Brussels, Bib. Royale. + +[1348] Nuremberg, German Museum. + +[1349] Jew's stitch is given both by Sibmacher and Latomus. (No. 95.) We + do not know what it is. + +[1350] Cited by Cav. Merli, in his _Origine delle Trine_. + +[1351] Cat. Evans, Strand. + +[1352] Paris, Musée de Cluny.* + +[1353] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. b*.--Nuremberg, German Museum. + +[1354] Stockholm. Royal Library. (Communicated by the librarian, Mr. H. + Wieselgren.) In the same library is a work, without title-page or + date, for "broderies et de tous autres besongnant à l'aiguille," by + Hieronymus Cock, containing, with designs of every description, a + few patterns for Spanish point of great beauty. + +[1355] Bib. Baron J. Pichon, 2 copies.*--Cat. d'Estrées.--Bib. Nat. Grav. + B. c. 22.* (Title-page wanting.) + +[1356] Bib. Rouen. No. 1,314.*--Bib. Baron J. Pichon.* + +[1357] Florence, Bib. Prof. Santerelli.--Rome, Bib. Prince Massimo. + +[1358] Cat. Evans, Strand. + +[1359] Hesse-Cassel, Public Library. Communicated by Mr. N. R. Bernhardi, + the head Librarian. + +[1360] Lowndes, _Bibliographer's Manual_. New edit. by Henry Bohn. + +[1361] Victoria and Albert Museum. + +[1362] Vienna, Imperial Library. + +[1363] Brussels, Bib. Roy. + +[1364] Bib. Imp. Grav. L. h. 2. a.*--Brussels, Bib. Roy.--Cat. d'Estrées + 8847. + +[1365] In the possession of Mrs. Marryat. "Maes y dderwen."--Bib. Bodleian. + +[1366] Quoted by Mr. Douce (_Illustrations of Shakspeare_). + +[1367] S. Marino. M. P. Bonella. + +[1368] Berlin, Roy. Library. + +[1369] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,956 _bis_.* + +[1370] Victoria and Albert Museum. + +[1371] Victoria and Albert Museum. + +[1372] _Ibid._ + +[1373] _A History of Hand-made Lace._ Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum, + 1900. + +[1374] _A History of Hand-made Lace._ Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. + 1900. + +[1375] _A History of Hand-made Lace._ Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. + 1900. + +[1376] _A History of Hand-made Lace._ Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. + 1900. + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of History of Lace, by Bury Palliser + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 57009 *** |