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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides,

-S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain

-

-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or

-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license

-

-

-Title: Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean

-

-Author: C. Bice

-        A. Brittain

-

-Release Date: October 9, 2018 [EBook #58060]

-

-Language: English

-

-Character set encoding: UTF-8

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-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL ***

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-Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed

-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was

-produced from scans of public domain works at The National

-Library of Australia.)

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-

-                                JOURNAL

-

-                   OF RESIDENCE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES,

-                          S.W. PACIFIC OCEAN.

-

-

-                     WRITTEN DURING THE YEAR 1886,

-

-                                  BY

-

-                    REVDS. C. BICE AND A. BRITTAIN.

-

-

-                                TRURO:

-

-                  NETHERTON AND WORTH, LEMON STREET.

-

-                                 1887.

-

-

-

-

-PREFACE.

-

-

-I have been induced to publish the following Journals at the request of

-some friends who have perused them, and think they will prove

-interesting to others. The Journal of the Rev. A. Brittain arrived too

-late for insertion in the ‘Island Voyage’ for this year, and I have been

-requested by the Rev. William Selwyn, the Secretary of the Melanesian

-Mission, to print it with my own. I do this with the greater pleasure,

-because his report will not only supply me with a good excuse for

-rushing into print, but will furnish others with a more full and

-complete account of the work of the Melanesian Mission in the New

-Hebrides.

-

-The three islands herein spoken of are the Northernmost of the

-above-mentioned group--the New Hebrides--and form the Southern boundary

-of the Melanesian Mission work in the islands of the South-west Pacific

-Ocean.

-

-Araga (or Pentecost) and Maewo (or Aurora) are long and mountainous

-islands running almost North and South, about forty miles each in

-length, and separated by a narrow channel three miles wide. Opa (or

-Leper’s Island) runs at right angles to these, a broad, massive, grand

-looking country, resembling in appearance a huge whale, the hump of

-which rises to a height of over 4000 feet.

-

-Araga and Opa are thickly populated, but Maewo has a scattered and

-sparse population. Opa is about sixteen miles from Araga, but a channel

-of only five miles in width separates it from Maewo.

-

-The languages and dispositions of these neighbouring lands are much more

-varied and dissimilar than would naturally be inferred from their close

-propinquity. And the majority of the people, too, seem to prefer an

-inland situation, all which serve to make the work of the Missionary the

-more arduous and difficult. On these islands every outward prospect is

-pleasing, and the inhabitants themselves not so far gone in vileness as

-to be incapable of improvement, as I hope the following pages will show.

-The work of the Melanesian Mission has been established in these islands

-a good many years now, with more or less success, and schools are in

-active operation as follows:--

-

-At ARAGA--Wonor, on the Southern face of the island, and Lamoru and

-Qatvenua on the North.

-

-At MAEWO--Tanrig, Tasmouri, Tasmate, Mandurvat, Naruru, and Uta. All

-these stations are on the North of the island.

-

-At OPA--Tavolavola, Lobaha, Walurigi, the most flourishing of which is

-that first mentioned.

-

-With these few preliminary remarks and explanations I leave the

-following simple pages to tell their own story.

-

-                                           CHARLES BICE.

-

-

-N.B.--The vowels in the Melanesian languages are pronounced as in

-     Italian: a = _ah_, e = _a_, i = _e_.

-

-      The letter written [¨n] = _ng_ in _singer_; d = _nd_, b = _mb_.

-

-

-

-

-                               JOURNAL.

-

-                                _1886._

-

-

-_Friday, 9th July._--The weather seaward looked very threatening as we

-stood on the Pier at the Settlement in readiness to embark. All the

-Melanesians, boys and girls, to the number of about 50 had already gone

-off to the ship which lay tossing and tumbling at her anchorage as if

-anxious to be let free. A considerable number of Norfolk Island friends

-were on the Pier, in addition to most of the Members of the Mission, to

-bid us Farewell and wish us GOD speed. Many thoughtful little mementos,

-too, found their way into our hands from our warm-hearted and well

-wishing friends. The process of shaking hands took some time in

-execution, but one could not but feel the absence of many who were

-unavoidably absent on the occasion. My own little ones were the last to

-bid me good-bye, and poor little Walter (my youngest son) was very

-tearful. Shortly after, we were all in the boat, and “let go” was called

-out. The landing was very smooth, and we got out with very little

-difficulty. Besides the Captain, Mr. Turnbull and myself were the only

-passengers. It was close upon 5 o’clock p.m. when we got on board, and

-some of the passengers had already begun to feel the motion of the

-ocean. After things were put into some order and the shore boat

-dismissed with Captain Bates and the Norfolk Island crew, the command to

-“heave away” was given, and then I saw for the first time the steam

-winch at work. Before many minutes the anchor was in its place in the

-bows of the ship, and the long process of raising the anchor in old

-days, performed by manual labour, reduced to a minimum. We slipped

-quietly down the leeside of the island, and had ample time to get into

-some amount of order and readiness for a very dirty, rough night.

-Opposite the Mission, the boys ashore had lit a large bonfire, and we

-could hear their shouts, borne seaward by the raging gale. As night

-closed in the sky became very dark and lowering, and we knew full well

-what we were to expect. We had dinner while still under the lee of the

-island, but before the meal was finished, we were knocking about in the

-heavy head gale. Of course any where but at Norfolk Island, where there

-is no certain shelter, it would be approaching madness to put to sea

-with such a crowd of people in a small ship on a night like this, but

-here there is no help for it. Perhaps had we not got away as we did, we

-might have been detained another week, from the uncertainty of wind

-changes and the insecurity of the anchorages. All night it blew very

-heavily, with a nasty head sea. Of course, the wind being very strong

-and dead ahead, we made little or no progress, and were in fact hove to.

-Most of the passengers spent a very unpleasant night, and the poor

-little children, of whom we had four on board, suffered like the others.

-The poor boys in the schoolroom had a disagreeable time, owing to the

-large amount of cargo on board, in addition to their own luggage. The

-_Southern Cross_, however, is a magnificent sea boat, although slightly

-lively, and being at sea was, to me at least, the worst of the evils we

-experienced that first night. Mr. Turnbull is a good sailor, and he and

-I were alone in the saloon. Poor old Manekalea I invited also to sleep

-there, on account of his blindness, and I asked Silas Kema to sleep

-there and look after him. Poor fellow, his sight seems quite gone, but

-he is wonderfully patient and resigned. I think now he begins to feel

-that there is no hope of his ever seeing again, and he begins to try and

-help himself and get about alone a great deal more than before. The loss

-of so young, active, and intelligent a Teacher must be much felt in the

-district of Ysabel, formerly under his charge.

-

-

-_Saturday, 10th._--The wind had abated little, if any, this morning, and

-the vessel was making little or no headway. It rained a good deal

-throughout the day, and that allayed both wind and sea by evening. Very

-few of the boys appeared on deck, and I myself was quite _hors de

-combat_. Mr. Turnbull kindly offered to read prayers in English for me

-in the Evening, and I managed the Mota with a few who were able to

-attend. These first days on board ship are very trying, one feels quite

-out of it altogether, and the sea legs are somewhat long in returning

-when one has been ashore for any length of time. Towards evening the

-weather moderated a little, but there was very little life about the

-ship. These unhappy days when one is the victim of _mal de mer_ leave a

-very unsatisfactory impression behind them, and if any recollection is

-left, it is always painful. I was not actually seasick myself, but I

-felt uncomfortable enough for a time, and did not care for ship’s fare.

-

-

-_Sunday, 11th._--The weather more moderate. I conducted Morning Prayer

-both in English and Mota, and generally our passengers were getting over

-their indisposition. It was not a very profitable day however to me, for

-I could not settle to anything: our Service hours on Sunday, at sea, are

-English Mattins at 9 o’clock a.m. and Evensong at 7 p.m. Mota 11 a.m.

-and 7.30 p.m. Our daily hours for meals are 8 a.m. breakfast, 12 noon

-lunch, 5 p.m. dinner. On Sunday this is slightly changed, and we dine at

-1, and tea at 5 p.m. At anchor, too, the English Morning Service is

-postponed to 10 a.m., and all the sailors are enabled to attend. Usually

-only one watch can be present while the vessel is at sea. This year we

-have a crew composed entirely of Englishmen. We have generally had

-previously a strong admixture of foreigners. The steward, indeed, is a

-German, but he has been with us so many voyages, speaks and reads

-English so well, that one quite forgets his nationality. The crew are a

-very nice, quiet, well-behaved set of men, and all look so respectable.

-I believe the Captain has many applications for billets on board the

-_Southern Cross_, she being a popular vessel now-a-days, besides, a trip

-in her is a paying affair, for I am told that sometimes the men realize

-from £10 to £30 and £40 by the sale of curios alone. The great collector

-on board now is John Brown the boatswain, and he has accumulated quite a

-museum, which he meditates taking to England for sale next year. Brown

-is an old Island Trader, and knows all the specialities of the trade and

-what will captivate the native taste. Penny whistles and half-penny

-looking glasses, I believe, are the line this trip. There is very keen

-competition too on board when the curio fields are reached, chiefly at

-Santa Cruz and some of the Solomon Islands. Sunday passed away somewhat

-profitlessly, and evening once more closed over a day past and gone. I

-did not give the sailors a Sermon, but reserved my efforts for the

-Melanesians, many of whom were able to attend. I naturally chose the

-subject of the Gospel as the basis of my remarks, viz: the recovery of

-the lost sheep and the piece of money, which I applied to the condition

-of the heathen to whom we were going, and our duty as seekers of those

-who were still wandering upon the mountains and upon every high hill,

-with none caring for them or seeking them out. We had some singing after

-the service, and the termination of the day at least was pleasant, and I

-hope profitable. One’s thoughts naturally wandered away back to Norfolk

-Island, and one thought of the quiet peaceful Sunday evenings there, and

-the love of those we had left. The vessel was much more at her ease this

-evening, and we could undress and rest in bed with more comfort.

-

-It was a great pleasure to me from this time forward, to see the boys

-dropping into the cabin one by one to say their prayers, unbidden but

-none the less welcome.

-

-

-_Monday, 12th July._--This morning the wind has moderated very

-considerably, and the sea is going down. The vessel moving along much

-more gently and easily, sometimes towards our destination. Life on board

-is almost utterly devoid of interest or excitement. There is little or

-nothing stirring, and out of our element we feel restless and not fit

-for much. We begin now however, to fall into ship-shape ways, and things

-begin to look a little straighter than they did. The boys are divided

-into sets of cooks, and have to take their turn in order to cook and

-keep the schoolroom clean. The Melanesians have three meals a day, and

-they are supposed to look after their own food, the cook giving

-directions as to what he wants doing. After the misery and prostration

-of _mal de mer_ have passed off, the boys get very lively, and do not

-easily again succumb.

-

-In the evening we had music. Brown the boatswain has a most ingenious

-instrument called, I think, the “Cabinetto,” which plays almost any

-tune; a piece of perforated paper is turned over a sort of key-board,

-like a mouth organ, by means of a handle, and the closed notes are kept

-silent, while the open ones speak according to the length of the

-perforation. Its tone is somewhat harsh, but the music is very correct,

-and there is plenty of it. Brown bought this instrument, which cost him

-some £15 or £16, for the special amusement of his young Melanesian

-friends. The girls never seem to tire of turning the handle, and the

-more it is turned the better the owner seems pleased. Forward there is a

-very good concertina, exceptionally well played by one of the sailors, a

-banjo played by another, and a tin plate beaten by a third makes a very

-fair tambourine. Altogether, the hour between 5 and 6 p.m. is very

-lively with strains of music and other enlivenments. The boys most

-thoroughly enjoy the music, and are very attentive and enthusiastic

-listeners, breaking in with a good chorus when they happen to know any

-of the pieces played. At 7 p.m. English Prayers, a shortened form of

-Evensong with a hymn, and afterwards full Evensong in Mota with a good

-deal of singing. We have many nice voices on board this time, and the

-singing is exceptionally good. Owing to the crowded state of the

-schoolroom, service is held in the saloon, which is inconveniently small

-for the large number who attend. The girls who hitherto have been

-prevented from attending, by reason of sea-sickness, this evening put in

-a very fairly large appearance. Most Melanesian ladies are bad sailors,

-and some never get over the inconveniences of the uncongenial sea

-element.

-

-

-_Tuesday, 13th July._--The weather this morning was somewhat finer, but

-still a good deal unsettled. We have failed as yet to get hold of the

-S.E. Trades, but are living in hopes that a favourable breeze will soon

-waft us onward to our destination. The great excitement this morning was

-the smoke of a steamer, which at first we wildly imagined must be the

-vessel expected from Sydney to meet us at Norfolk Island, giving us

-chase. However, wiser heads, by the direction of the ship’s head and the

-course of the smoke, made it out to be the _Rockton_ or some steamer

-from Fiji towards New Caledonia. Whatever ship it may have been, the

-excitement all ended in smoke. Beyond this, we have had nothing stirring

-all day. The moon at night dispersed the clouds, and the concertina

-forward enlivened the monotony of the evening. And so has passed another

-day, leaving little record of any work done.

-

-

-_Wednesday, 14th July._--We were to-day somewhere in the neighbourhood

-of Walpole Island, a flat, uninhabited island lying by itself in mid

-ocean, on which myriads of sea birds have their dwelling, and lay their

-eggs and hatch their young. The weather was somewhat hazy, so we got no

-sight of the sun although the Captain was anxious to do so, not having

-been able to see that orb either to-day or yesterday. The ‘dead

-reckoning’ alone showed him our probable whereabouts, but he was not

-able to get any definite position laid down. Shoals of fish were seen

-about the ship to-day, and the boys perched on the bowsprit end

-succeeded in cleverly catching two fine skipjacks, one of which we had

-cooked for dinner, and which was pronounced as very good eating. No bait

-is required for these fish, a line, rod, and hook to which a piece of

-red rag is attached, are requisite, and the motion of the vessel makes

-the tempting object skip along the surface of the water, to which the

-fish rises and swallows hook and all. They are large fish, and

-peculiarly strong, especially with their tails. At times they breach out

-of the water to a great height, the motive power being seated in their

-tails. One of the boys unadvisedly took hold of one of those caught

-to-day too near the tail, and the fish lashing out struck him on the

-forefinger, and at first I fancied had sprained it, for the whole hand

-swelled, and he was in considerable pain for some time. This evening it

-was very quiet and pleasant, and the moon added to the pleasantness of

-the occasion. It is wonderful to mark how the days lengthen as we go

-further North, and how the weather grows warmer. Soon we shall dispense

-with waistcoats, and bye and bye coats will likewise go, except at meals

-and at prayers. We saw nothing of Walpole Island, and the Captain got no

-sight of the sun again to-day.

-

-

-_Thursday, 15th July._--This morning we were well up with Anaiteum, the

-first of the New Hebrides group, and belonging to the Presbyterians who

-have been established there a great number of years. Soon after Tanna

-appeared in view, and later on in the day Eromango. We could not see the

-volcano at Tanna, so that we cannot speak of its activity or otherwise.

-We passed close under Eromango, and for some time the water was quite

-smooth. We had a most beautiful wind all day, the real S.E. Trades, and

-we were enabled to make good progress towards our first place of call.

-Everyone on board seems to have sprung into life with the sight of land,

-and no doubt many see in the islands we are passing the anticipation of

-their own homes. Most of our passengers are from the New Hebrides and

-Banks’ groups, of which these three islands are the commencement. It was

-most beautiful all day and the evening especially enjoyable; the Captain

-wisely remarked that if it were always so fine, there would be too many

-sailors, or at least persons who would want to go to sea. Melanesian

-islands are disappointing as viewed at a distance from the sea, for they

-are like any other place, but the great beauty of them is seen on nearer

-inspection and ashore. These three islands and the Loyalty group are not

-so thickly wooded as some farther North.

-

-

-_Friday, July 16th._--Strong S.E. Trades, and we moved along rapidly all

-day, doing over two hundred miles. We found ourselves in the evening

-running through the passage between Ambrym and Pentecost at the South

-end of which we expected to find Mr. Brittain, who had been left there

-when the ship went back to Norfolk Island. We stood quite close into

-the place, but receiving no manner of response from the shore we began

-to suspect that after all the bird had flown. The vessel stood off and

-on all the night, and it certainly was more comfortable than usually is

-the case under the like circumstances. The vessel rode very quietly all

-night, and on

-

-

-_Saturday, July 17th._--We were early off our place of call, and seeing

-no signs ashore the boat was lowered and I took the steer oar in a

-furious wind and a heavy sea. The approach to and departure from this

-place were as nasty as could be, and I was not sorry to be on board all

-right again. Mr. Brittain had left some time before, and our visit was

-futile except that we brought off his things. The people were quiet and

-well behaved, and Tom (the teacher) was in great form. Tom, having been

-educated in Sydney, speaks remarkably good English and is evidently held

-in respect by his people. Their dress and appearance are very like their

-neighbours of Ambrym, and the women wear the flaxen petticoat also like

-the Ambrymese. Their language, too, I believe, is akin, the distance

-separating the two islands not being more than five or six miles. Tom is

-building a very nice school, and there seems a large population. A big,

-chiefly looking man was sitting on the beach as we were coming away, and

-Tom told me that he was the chief of the place. I had brought nothing

-with me from the ship, and the boys had nothing, so the best I could do

-for the great man was to give him a tin of sardines which I got out of

-one of Mr. Brittain’s boxes. I dare say he would have preferred tobacco,

-but he seemed as satisfied as natives usually appear to be, for they are

-not generally very demonstrative or profuse in their thanks. The tide

-was falling fast so we had to beat a hasty retreat and got off with some

-considerable difficulty.

-

-Poor Tom must find life at home somewhat of a change to the ‘easy life’

-he enjoyed in Sydney. I believe he was very much scandalized when he

-first got home at the outrageously indecent dress of his countrymen. He

-himself still dons the Sydney costume, but minus boots. Poor boy! I dare

-say he dreamed in Sydney of the reforms he would endeavour to effect

-when he got home, but the stern difficulties in the way he now begins to

-realize. Oh! Missionary work seems easy enough when viewed from an arm

-chair at a distance of many thousand miles, the difficulties only become

-apparent when the man is brought into close connection with his work,

-and has to grapple in a stubborn, persistant hand to hand fight with the

-Evil one. Poor Tom! I suppose he will try a little at first to stem the

-tide, and failing in that, will drift along with the stream. To a poor

-youth like that the difficulties of his position must seem stupendous

-and insurmountable. Nothing but the grace of God is sufficient for such.

-I dare say ere now his bright vistas and day dreams are being only too

-rudely dispelled, for he will have to find out like all other

-Missionaries that Christians are not made by machinery, or believers

-made such in a day; it is a long and weary process, but labour is not in

-vain in the Lord. Once more on board, the boat was hauled up, and on we

-started for the North end of the island where now we hoped to find Mr.

-Brittain. We saw a Labour vessel at anchor along the coast, and got to

-our own anchorage about 4 p.m. Mr. Brittain came off in his boat very

-sick, and with some difficulty got on board. He has been ill three weeks

-and was very anxious for the return of the vessel. During the evening he

-brightened up a good deal and I dare say felt much better for the

-society of his white brethren. He gave a very sad account of the state

-of things ashore, great sickness and considerable mortality. We had a

-very quiet night at anchor, and determined to stay here till Monday. We

-had some boys to land, and the boats were going forth and back all the

-evening. The clatter alongside was fearful owing to the large number of

-canoes that put off to the ship and every occupant speaking at the same

-time. They used to be a very noisy crowd, but have much improved of late

-years. It was a most glorious night at anchor and not excessively hot.

-We consider that we have done very well to be here so soon with the bad

-start from Norfolk Island. How the boys and girls did enjoy the fruits

-of their own islands again, especially green cocoanuts and soft sugar

-cane! And how pleasing was it too, as well as entertaining, as the

-shades of evening closed in, to watch the coy and shy flirtations of the

-young married couples on board; one or two were quite oldfashioned at

-the process, but Charles and Monica especially were somewhat more

-bashful. The young bridegrooms were most attentive to their respective

-spouses on the voyage but necessarily lived apart. The boys and men all

-live together in the schoolroom, and the girls and married women aft.

-There are as yet no married people’s apartments, we shall look for those

-when we get a bigger ship.

-

-

-_Sunday, 18th July._--Quiet and peaceful day at Araga. The natives

-regarded the observance of Sunday so strictly that they troubled us very

-little with their noisy chatter, indeed very few canoes came off at all

-to the ship, and we were able to have an uninterrupted day of rest. Our

-services began at 10 a.m. with English Prayers. We chanted the Venite,

-read the Te Deum, and sang the Jubilate besides singing the Glorias in

-the Psalms, and two hymns. We had therefore full Mattins with a short

-address to which the men paid very good attention. I tried to make the

-discourse as easy and lively as possible, and interspersed a few

-anecdotes among my remarks, which I think, being appropriate, were

-appreciated. The service lasted just three quarters of an hour so that

-the men were not wearied. It was not a very hot day, but beautifully

-bright and glorious. Shorewards it looked most lovely, the bright

-sunshine lighting up the vegetation with a silver sheen, everything

-seeming to catch the infection from the King of Day, who rejoiced as a

-giant to run his course. On board a gentle breeze cooled the air, and

-under the awning and down below alike it was bearably comfortable and

-refreshing.

-

-At 11 o’clock we had service in Mota, at which we had the attendance of

-all the Melanesians of both sexes in the ship, and a very hearty,

-cheering service it was. I reserved my address to them for the evening

-and before noon our religious duties for the morning were over. We dined

-at 1 o’clock and in the afternoon Mr. Turnbull and myself went ashore.

-This was his first experience in these islands and he was duly impressed

-with the natural beauty everywhere apparent, and the good nature of the

-people. It was nearly high water when we went in over the reef, and the

-clearness of the sea, the beauty of the coral bed, the dear little blue

-and vari-coloured fish which flitted about produced their due effect on

-him. The white beach, too, with its background of most luxuriant green

-rising from the base and clothing in marvellous profusion the tops of

-the hills greatly delighted him. The climb up the hill somewhat

-dispelled the fancy, but one could well imagine oneself in some

-semi-fairy land so strangely beautiful as it all looked. We were in a

-very liquid state when we reached the school about three quarters of a

-mile up the hill, and green cocoanuts were very acceptable. Here we

-found in the midst of all the loveliness a poor little child dying amid

-squalor and destitution. The poor young mother was sitting over it and

-crying her heart out. Her son had been buried the day before and there

-seemed not a particle of hope for the elder sister. I said what I could

-to comfort the mother, but it was too late to do anything for the child.

-The father with a third child was walking up and down disconsolately

-outside. The sight had its effect on me, for the father bears the

-honoured name of my great friend Bishop Key of Kaffraria, the mother

-bears my wife’s name, and the little dying one the name of my own

-daughter, the boy too who died the day before was called “Bailey” a

-cognomen revered by all Augustinians as the name of its late Warden.

-

-Poor things! May God give them all the comfort of His grace, the only

-balm for a troubled and afflicted soul.

-

-We walked about the village for a time and everything being utterly new

-and strange to Mr. Turnbull he was very much charmed. We visited old

-Sarawia who was once, and I dare say now is, the chief man in the place.

-He still looks much the same as ever but professed himself to be failing

-in health, and suffering from a sort of paralysis in his left leg. It

-does not seem however as if he intended to die just yet for he has

-lately taken two or three additional wives. We also saw the great wind

-and rain maker, but he said he had given up the trade now, and came to

-school regularly. Formerly he used to derive a good income from it I

-believe.

-

-The houses and gamals (men’s quarters) here are most squalid and

-wretched, but the people seem content, and don’t trouble themselves much

-about their habitations, but what they shall eat or drink is a prominent

-consideration in all their minds. Their great treasures here are pigs

-and mats, and a man’s wealth and standing is measured by his possession

-in these. After proceeding through various grades if a man can kill one

-hundred pigs at a feast he is looked upon as a man of importance and his

-name is handed down to posterity as a great man, and I believe by that

-means his fare is prepaid to the realms of the Blest. The reverse I

-believe obtains with those who possess no treasures and kill no pigs.

-Everyone therefore in the interval between his advent into this world

-and his departure from it, endeavours to slaughter according to custom

-one pig or more, or the consequences will be terrible if not here at

-least hereafter.

-

-This is a cheap way at all events of purchasing blessedness and no

-wonder they are eager with the small price for it. A fighting man

-formerly was looked upon as having more claim to their Walhalla than a

-man who refused or who had failed to take blood. This title certainly of

-late years has not been so eagerly coveted, and so far it is,

-thankworthy, but “when the wicked man turneth away from his wickedness

-and doeth that which is lawful and right he shall save his soul alive,”

-this last clause as yet is omitted from their programme.

-

-On our way back I could not refrain from paying another visit to the

-dying child. There still sat the faithful mother, and there still lay

-her pretty child, life was not yet extinct, and she had turned since I

-saw her before. I determined when I got off to the ship to try and get

-some medicine as a sort of dernier resort. I doubt if medicine will ever

-more do any good. We got off to the ship before 5 p.m., and at that hour

-had tea, bread and sardines, and cake which the cook had concocted. The

-“Cabinetto” was going most of the evening, Brown having thoughtfully

-brought some sacred sheets for Sundays. At 7 p.m. we had Evensong in

-English and afterwards in Mota with an address on the Gospel, “Be ye

-therefore merciful,” “not only were we to ask mercy for ourselves I

-said, but we too must extend it to others, and we should find plenty of

-opportunity of doing so, in the places to which we were going. If we

-only felt for a moment the mercy of God towards us as revealed in Christ

-Jesus, we must be merciful to our fellows, and we must show them the

-same mercy we had experienced and known in our Saviour’s dealings with

-our own souls.”

-

-We had great singing afterwards, which they always enjoy. It was most

-resplendent on deck afterwards, and one was thankful for the quiet and

-refreshment throughout of the day of rest.

-

-

-_Monday, 19th July._--Mr. Brittain well enough this morning to go ashore

-to collect his things and make arrangements with his teachers. It is his

-intention if health permits to stay ashore in Mr. Palmer’s district at

-Mota and the Banks’ Islands, but in his present condition such a step

-would scarcely be wise. However, time will tell. While he was ashore Mr.

-Huggett, the mate, always ready to lend a helping hand, and myself put

-the teacher’s things together, and when he came off Mr. Brittain had

-nothing to do but give them out according as they had been deserved.

-Meanwhile there were crowds of people round about the ship, and much

-trading was carried on by the boys and girls on board. They use here

-canoes with outriggers, and the larger ones are very clumsy, unwieldy

-monsters. The Captain hates the sight of them alongside for they rub the

-paint off the ship, and sometimes even damage the copper. In the Solomon

-Islands they have no outriggers, and the natives are much more expert in

-the management of their canoes, both large and small.

-

-Here at Araga they have a very large number of canoes, but they are very

-bad.

-

-We weighed anchor at noon and stood across to Opa and were at anchor at

-Tavolavola by about 3.30 p.m.; a very nice breeze took us across, and

-on arrival there we made preparations for going ashore at once. I found

-matters satisfactory ashore, and the school in full swing, the young

-teachers all neatly and nicely dressed.

-

-They were glad to have Charles back again and the women walked off with

-his pretty wife, dressed in all her bit of best. She had done a good

-deal of weeping between the ship and shore, evidently being very

-reluctant to leave her friends on board. Her eyes therefore were

-slightly tear bedyed, and her cheeks also, before she got ashore. The

-school looked cared for, and I was pleased to see a very nice new house

-built for me. The people were very glad to have me back and received me

-in their usually cordial fashion. An English Trader had built a house,

-and had resided some months near the village, but had lately taken his

-departure, why I know not, but I believe there was not trade enough.

-

-There are a number of white men now trading all over the island, the

-mystery is how they can make it pay. Monica was very tearful again when

-I bid her good-bye, poor girl I dare say she will have a hard struggle

-at first among her own country women, but I trust she may have strength

-given her to resist the wiles of the Evil one and his agents among them.

-She is a pretty, flighty girl, but much improved of late, and became a

-great favourite on board. She has a most estimable husband and I hope

-she will make him a good helpmeet.

-

-We passed a very pleasant night at the snug anchorage and all the boys

-came off to the ship next morning.

-

-

-_Tuesday, 20th July._--We weighed anchor and dropped down to Lobaha,

-about four miles along the coast to the Westward. Here we found Herbert

-Arudale well. He came off to the ship with his wife Mary who was not

-well. They seem to live much happier now, and both were beaming over

-with smiles. He gives but a poor account of his work, which is much in

-_statu quo_. The fact is his field is very limited if he must confine

-himself to his own people, and it never suggests itself to a Melanesian

-to go farther a-field. The mountain must come to Mahomet, for Mahomet

-never dreams of going to the mountain. However, now with Didi and his

-wife, a most exemplary pair, and seemingly very devoted, they ought to

-make a fresh start. Baitagaro I saw ashore and he seems to have

-improved, but it must be heart breaking work to labour on year after

-year, and get little or no attention to what you say, no appreciation of

-the message you bring, and no interest taken in all you endeavour to

-do. However, it is what the Man of Sorrows passed through, and it is

-what His true followers have to experience also.

-

-Here we almost filled the ship with fruit, especially a kind ardently

-longed for by the Norfolk Islanders, which they call the Vee apple, but

-which the Opa people term “Uhi.” Some very sweet oranges too were

-offered for sale, and the ship looked like a fruit market.

-

-We hoisted our anchor before noon and stood across to Maewo where we

-anchored in the evening. No one being down on the beach, I started off

-Arthur Huqe and Duwu to Tanrig to tell the people to come down in the

-morning.

-

-The village is three or four miles from the watering place and except

-the ship is there, the Tanrigese seldom come down to this beach, the sea

-being nearer on the other side of the island. Mr. Turnbull and I with

-some of the boys went in and had a most delicious bath, after so many

-days privation all the nicer. The river we found very full and the rush

-very great, but the water was most beautifully cool and refreshing. This

-now is the chief and best watering place in the islands, and the water

-itself is most excellent. Late in the evening a boy arrived who had

-rowed a long distance in his canoe, and he gave us the news, which was

-good on the whole. He told me again the tragic story enacted at [¨N]adui,

-a village not far from the watering place. One Vulatewa was a reputed

-disease-maker, and he resided there. Lately there had been a great

-mortality at Maewo, and especially among the still heathen people of

-Tanrowo, a coastal district bordering on [¨N]adui. The great man,

-Melkalano’s son died and his brother and many others, and Vulatewa

-insisted that he had made the sickness, and would kill many more except

-he were propitiated. However, propitiation by the gift of pigs or money

-was not in Melkalano’s line, and collecting his followers he made a raid

-on poor Vulatewa and killed him and two others, cutting them into small

-pieces, and leaving them as they were killed.

-

-They then drove out the other inhabitants, or rather fear had already

-lent them wings for flight, and destroyed the village. The poor people

-left everything they possessed behind, and took refuge in all directions

-among their friends. The people at the next village, where there was a

-flourishing school, took fright also, and cleared out of their homes

-leaving a fine handsome school-house and a new church almost finished.

-The boy added that as soon as Vulatewa was dead the sickness was stayed.

-We did no watering this evening as the tide did not suit. After a very

-quiet night at anchor on

-

-

-_Wednesday, 21st July._--We started watering ship. This is a busy

-process and keeps everyone on board well employed. Two large canvas

-tanks are fitted into each boat, and fastened underneath the thwarts.

-Into these the water is poured from buckets until both are full, a

-suction pump and hose on board empties these canvas tanks into iron

-receptacles under the floor of the schoolroom, and one boatload fills

-about a tank and a half. Seven or eight loads of water therefore

-finished the watering to-day. When everything was finished, the boys and

-girls went ashore to wash their clothes and bathe, and this day here is

-always looked forward to. The people came down from Tanrig in the

-morning, and I was busy packing up my things. After lunch I went ashore

-and started away the bearers with my belongings. How they managed to

-carry all the heavy boxes and a big harmonium up the hill and on for

-three or four miles, I don’t know, but they did it, and did not think

-much of it. I went on board again, and thanks to the Captain’s kindness,

-I got the loan of one of the ship’s boats, my own having been stolen by

-a labour ship last year. After an early dinner, escorted by Arthur, &c.,

-I left for Tanrig. It was just getting dusk when I arrived, and I had no

-time to put anything straight. We had Evensong, and after that I

-prepared for bed. The mosquitos were somewhat numerous, but it was too

-late to get out my net, and so I put up with their music, and soon was

-oblivious of their singing or teasing. It seems quite natural to be here

-again, and as is usual the place has not changed at all. The boys

-however, have built me a beautiful new house, and I shall live in great

-comfort. I miss several faces too from the congregation, whom death has

-removed.

-

-

-_Thursday, 22nd July._--I left the _Southern Cross_ last night expecting

-to get away early this morning, which I suppose she did. However I am so

-far away from the sea, that I have no means of knowing what she did.

-Naturally too, I was very busy this first day ashore. The first business

-after Morning Prayer, was to start off Samuel and the Tasmouri

-contingent who had spent the night here. They had a good many things to

-receive, but they got away in time to reach home before night. There

-were numbers of other things to be done also, such as putting the new

-window in the Church, unpacking the harmonium, making a platform for it,

-&c. The old mode of life seems to come back wonderfully naturally to me.

-Breakfast of rice, with sugar and cocoanut milk, and afterwards a cup

-of delicious Norfolk Island coffee, for which delicacy I am indebted to

-my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher Nobbs. My midday meal is a bit of

-biscuit or roasted yam, and I reserve myself for the great meal of the

-day in the evening, not sumptuous but amply sufficient, fried rasher of

-bacon, fried taro pancake, and most excellent potatoes, for which I am

-indebted to Mr. Alfred Nobbs at Norfolk Island. After this I have a cup

-of milkless tea, which I brew in that charming teapot sent me from China

-by Dr. Codrington. They say ‘enough is as good as a feast,’ and I

-suppose this is why I am perfectly satisfied with this rough meal. After

-dinner I have nothing again till next morning.

-

-

-_Friday, 23rd July._--A most superb morning, and the place looks very

-charming early in the day and in the evening, at midday there is a

-strong glare and it is almost too dazzling. The church looks most

-picturesque and pretty, nestling in a perfect forest of bright coloured

-shrubs, among which are many European representatives, _e.g._ the

-Poinsettia, the Geranium, Marvel of Peru, and others imported from

-Norfolk Island. Arthur certainly has expended great pains and taste in

-the plantation, and it amply rewards him. Outside the stone fence is an

-orange grove, the dark green of which stands out in bold relief against

-the bright colours within. The church is still in a good state of

-preservation and will last for some time yet. It is getting

-inconveniently small however, and will soon want enlarging. It bears

-evident signs of being made good use of, and they tell me the

-congregation morning and evening is never short of 50 or 60. In a very

-short time I hope this will be a purely Christian village, and that not

-only in name, but in deed and in truth. I see considerable change here

-since I left in the number of the new houses, and the care of the town,

-for such it now has a right to be called. Before long the Church will be

-the centre of a number of private residences, and the people begin to

-build better houses. Arthur has constructed his like mine with high

-walls caned all round, and made it very comfortable.

-

-Except the ground floor my house is quite as nice as a one roomed

-boarded house. The school and church are almost contiguous, and both are

-strong, substantial buildings. There are at present 80 names of scholars

-on the books, and these are regular attendants. I hope before I leave,

-please God, to see that number augmented. At present we are strong in

-teachers, with the two Arthurs, Patrick, Harry, Duwu, Tilegi, Kate and

-Agnes. This morning after service, a shortened form of Mattins with a

-hymn, we had school, and I hope progress has been made. I was pleased to

-hear the teachers questioning their classes on the subject about which

-they had been reading. The perseverance of the old men in puzzling out

-the dreary sheets is perfectly astonishing, but they will not be denied.

-They have, however, learnt much by heart, e.g. Lord’s Prayer, Creed, Te

-Deum, &c. The women are quite as persevering, if not more so, and I

-don’t like to damp their ardour by forbidding them to try and learn to

-read. The first class of girls are far away ahead of the boys, and know

-a very great deal. These same girls used to sing very nicely, but they

-have got into the most disagreeable drawl, and so far from following a

-leader, they take the bit between their teeth, and sing as fancy

-dictates. This I shall try and remedy before I leave again. We have now

-a harmonium for our services, thanks to the very great kindness of my

-friend and benefactress in England, Miss Mount, who is far more

-beneficent than I at all deserve. The two Arthurs play very fairly well,

-but Arthur Huqe is organist at present. After school I had visitors from

-Golvanua, a populous district some ten or twelve miles from here. They

-are very peculiar people and very wild, I am sorry to say I have only

-been there once, and that only a flying visit. I told them I was coming

-again soon, and they seemed pleased. I gave the head man some tobacco,

-and he said when I came to their place he would give me food and take

-care of me. Our people here are rather terrified of them, and the

-distance is so great that very few have ever been there. There were two

-nice little boys with them, and I asked them if they were not tired, but

-they scouted the idea.

-

-I was so busy all day that I did not get away from home, and things

-begin to be a bit more ship-shape. I begin to feel very comfortable in

-my new house, but I dare say if my friends saw me, they would fancy it

-was far from comfort. However, I have a continual feast in a contented

-mind. In the evening, instead of school, we had singing, into which I

-endeavoured to infuse some life and harmony, and partially succeeded,

-but not to my taste quite yet. Then in the evening I held a teacher’s

-class, and we had much profitable conversation.

-

-

-_Saturday, 24th July._--This is observed by us as a whole holiday, and

-after Morning Prayer nothing is required of the school till the evening

-service. Arthur Aruduliwar decided to have his house thatched to-day,

-and a large party assembled to help him. Here they do everything by

-means of ‘Bees,’ (working parties). ‘Bees’ dig the gardens, plant the

-crops, dig the food, build the houses. The women do the cooking, and the

-owner of the house makes the feast, this is all he has to do, he is not

-supposed himself to do any work. Next week they are going to thatch a

-gamal, more stupendous work, and a great many people are going to be

-engaged, and there is to be much feasting, and I believe a dance.

-Marvellous harmony prevails in this community at present, and I never

-hear a harsh expression, nor witness a passionate action. They are the

-merriest, happiest, most contented people I ever saw, and I think the

-best natured. A party from Tasmouri appeared during the morning, and

-Thomas Aruloli among them. I asked him to stay the night, but he replied

-that it was his Sunday at Tasmate to-morrow, and he would not like to

-miss. I was pleased at this, for it showed the boy’s conscientiousness

-with respect to his self-imposed duty. I gave him his goods, and he and

-the others started again soon after for home. These natives don’t seem

-to know what fatigue is, and this double journey, which I should be

-sorry to undertake, they make nothing of it. After a frugal lunch the

-boys and I went to Ruos, where we bathed and washed our clothes. The

-river is certainly a boon and a blessing, and a good bathe has a most

-invigorating effect on one. In the evening the teachers came in and sat

-a long time with me, and we had much suitable conversation. While they

-were sitting here, a sound, which I had heard all day and couldn’t find

-the reason of, kept going on continually, and I asked Arthur what it

-was. He told me it was a bamboo placed high up on a top branch of a

-banyan tree in front of my house, in which notches were cut below each

-joint, and when the wind blew strong it sounded in the bamboo with the

-same effect that would be produced by so many persons blowing at once

-into the several orifices. This seemed to me very ingenious, but Arthur

-Huqe tells me they have the same practice at Opa. They say when the wind

-blows strong the sound is heard a great distance off, and I can quite

-imagine it.

-

-We heard this evening the reports of two big guns in the direction of

-the watering place, so it is conjectured that a vessel is at anchor

-there. However it was too late to go and see.

-

-

-_Sunday, 25th July._--First Sunday ashore at Maewo, and a very quiet and

-pleasant day it has been. I think too, it has been one of the most

-gloriously brilliant days I have ever seen. The morning was beautiful,

-the midday marvellously resplendent, and the evening indescribably

-lovely. The place did look so beautiful too. I told the people they

-ought never to cease praising God for so beautiful a heritage as He had

-given them. They have not a want or a care, but I fear they fail to

-appreciate the beauty, according to the truth of the old adage which

-speaks of familiarity breeding contempt. We had Sunday school very

-early, for two reasons more especially, (1) because it is cooler in the

-morning, (2) because we are not plagued with blowflies which appear in

-untold numbers wherever there is any congregation of people.

-

-After a short interval devoted to breakfast, we had Mattins, and after

-this a short service and an address for the teachers. We had a very few

-strangers present to-day, but all our own people turned up. We did away

-with the great midday feast to-day for the first time for many years,

-but some of the women cooked a large quantity of food which was

-distributed to the boys in the usual way. This food business had become

-too laborious, and too much the chief part of the day, so that I fancied

-a relaxation for a time would be beneficial.

-

-Patrick went to Mandurvat to take service there, but I stayed at Tanrig.

-At six different stations, school and service have been held and the day

-duly observed.

-

-Evensong was a pleasant service here, and the church looked very nice

-lit up with the new lamps. The strains of the harmonium too, gave an

-additional pathos and homeliness to the occasion. I gave an address on

-the Gospel for 5th Sunday after Trinity, which I think was understood

-and appreciated. We had much singing afterwards and the public part of

-the day ended with the Blessing. May that blessing ever rest upon us

-here and elsewhere, and may we always endeavour to do all to God’s

-glory.

-

-

-_Monday, 26th July._--I reckoned without my host last night when I

-rashly permitted Agnes and Kate to cook for me this week at their own

-request. They made a tremendous fuss about it, but the rice came to

-table uncooked, and in such a small quantity that my breakfast was

-spoilt and the coffee was anything but good. However they did their best

-and I dare say to-morrow they will do all right. They were both

-wonderfully good, and not only washed up for me but gave my premises a

-good sweep as well. Poor Agnes, she is hideously lame, but she pretends

-to the liveliness of a kitten. The fence around the school is rather

-high and I watched her endeavours to get over with her lameness and her

-petticoats. She managed better than I expected, but I stood by in

-readiness to lend her a helping hand in case she fell. She comes back

-fully impressed with a sense of her importance and dignity after so

-many years absence, and her friends made a great deal of her. To-day she

-is off with the other women on some excursion or other, and is fully

-convinced that she is as active as any of them. Before long no doubt she

-will fancy herself useful and engaging enough to be the life partner of

-Tilegi, and to be the faithful companion of his joys and sorrows. She is

-an intelligent girl, and her long training at Norfolk Island ought to

-make her useful here. She is perfectly charmed with her home, and she

-sees very plainly the beneficial results produced by Christianity. When

-she left, she herself was among the few baptized, now she comes back to

-the bosom of a Christian community with a good church and school, daily

-Morning and Evening Prayers, and perfect harmony and good will among all

-men. She will miss little at home now of what she has grown accustomed

-to at Norfolk Island, and it must be a pleasant realization to her. The

-girls, too, with whom she will have daily association are all

-Christians, and she will be spared the shock and repulsion of heathen

-women’s talk and actions. Her father has died in the interval, a truly

-godly man in his life, and a believer at the time of his death.

-

-There is no face I miss here more than that of James, a true and

-faithful friend to me, and I firmly believe, too, of our Lord and

-Saviour Jesus Christ. Arthur tells me his death was perfectly peaceful

-and happy, and he desired at the last to depart and be with Christ which

-was far better. His two children followed him, and the three lie side by

-side in the quiet and rest of the grave. A reputed mother, but one who

-is really an aunt, Amina, takes charge of Agnes until Tilegi or some one

-else claims her as a bride, for in spite of her deformity I suppose she

-will not eschew marriage herself, or be allowed to remain in single

-blessedness by her friends, for here young ladies are not over

-plentiful, and to judge by the appearance of some already married there

-is no accounting for taste among the men of the place. Elizabeth, the

-wife of James, has found solace in another partner, but she spoke of her

-former husband with a due amount of grief and tears, and said to me,

-pointing in the direction of his grave, “He lies asleep over there.”

-

-Yet there are here those who are ‘widows indeed,’ and good old Dorcas is

-one such. This old lady well deserves her name, for she is full of alms

-deeds, and kindness to all, and I firmly believe is a true follower of

-Jesus Christ. She lives alone with a little grandchild in her own hut

-and trains up dutifully the child in the way she should go. Very seldom

-is old Dorcas away from her seat in church, and she exercises a benign

-and gentle influence over her own sex in the village. Anna, another good

-old widow, has died in my absence, and the loss of such is much felt.

-Among the younger women there is a perfect colony of children, and this

-is most thankworthy as being a proof that infanticide has been quite

-stamped out, and formerly it seemed to be a sort of religious duty here.

-Children were looked upon as being uncanny as well as a nuisance, and if

-the mother did not kill her offspring herself, she found plenty of

-aiders and abettors in the old midwives who attended her. The father

-seemed utterly impotent to prevent the evil. Now the fathers have turned

-head nurses and are abundantly proud of their children.

-

-This morning after Prayers and school I walked down to the river side at

-Rarava, whither almost the entire population had preceded me, and where

-I lit upon a busy scene. It was a most resplendent day, but the

-overhanging branches of the wide spreading foliage lent a charm and

-grateful shade to the occasion. The men were engaged in digging the

-‘taro’ roots, from their irrigated beds, and the women busy washing and

-preparing them for culinary purposes. The ladies here, present no

-exception to a proverbial excess in the use of the ‘unruly member’ as

-the especially noticeable characteristic of the gentler sex in more

-favoured parts of the world, and a Babel-like clatter of tongues formed

-a striking accompaniment to the quietness and order of the work in hand.

-The taro beds of course are mud, pure and simple, and the taro when dug

-is a very dirty vegetable, it is covered over besides with long

-tenacious feelers for roots, and these are picked off with the fingers

-in the most skilled and practised manner much after the fashion of

-plucking and preparing a bird for table. When the cleaning and plucking

-process is perfected, the long stalks are collected to a head and tied

-up in convenient bundles with one of their own parts in the most

-ingenious and knowing manner. Two bundles are then arranged on one long

-pole, and carried by one bearer on the shoulder, one bundle before and

-another behind their backs. The weight is considerable, but here the

-burden is borne by the men, the women carry the broad leaves and other

-concomitants of native cookery. Beyond the cackle there was very much

-merriment which all seemed in accord with the dancing sparkling waters

-of the clear flowing river. The prospect around was most beautiful and

-although not extensive the landscape was most bewitching, and the eye

-was never tired with seeing.

-

-These natives have great natural taste, which is displayed to a far

-greater degree in the arrangement and beautifying of their yam and taro

-gardens here, than in any other island I have seen.

-

-The broad, handsome evergreen taro leaf spreads its verdure right and

-left, and all around, amid the friendship of the gay-leaved croton, the

-majestic dracæna, and the vari-coloured hibiscus, while here and there,

-to vary the prospect, the graceful cocoanut lends the beauty and

-elegance of its chastely spreading branches; all this beauty is thrown

-into relief by a back ground of the most marvellously beautiful bush,

-which shuts it in as with a natural fence, and leaves the only wish and

-feeling with the observer just to get for a moment a peep of what lies

-beyond. Breaks here and there however, in the background, revealed

-distant hills clad to their very summits with a richness and profusion

-of vegetation such as always abounds in these lovely islands where

-‘every prospect pleases.’ I could select so many subjects for pictures

-here as almost to finish up all my dry plates, my only hope is that I

-may meet with some measure of success when by and bye I try my hand at

-photography. A header into the cool waters and a swim up and down stream

-was very refreshing. The boys enlivened the scene by their merriment and

-gambolling in the water, and altogether it was an occasion of much

-delight, and not the less so to me when I considered that all these

-people, almost without exception, had passed before through the healing

-waters of Holy Baptism. As possessing so much of the element, it is

-perhaps only natural that these people should love the water, and bathe

-a great deal more than their appearance would give one reason to

-suspect. The boys, and more especially, I think, the girls, are very

-fond of the water, and never seem tired of bathing when near the

-river-side. ‘Tanrig’ is distant about two miles from the river, and this

-distance, although inconvenient for many reasons, is very convenient for

-others, and especially because of the mosquitos which abound in the

-neighbourhood. Here some times they are bad enough, but by the

-water-side they are, I believe, unbearable. I know I find them

-troublesome enough there by day, and I don’t care to experience the

-worry and misery of them by night. They are called here ‘namu,’ and are

-said to be particularly troublesome at a certain period in the growth

-and maturity of the yam.

-

-Any one who has not lived in a tropical country can have very little

-conception of the discomfort and worry of these little maddening

-tormentors. Yet there are others whose attacks produce more serious

-consequences, and an illustration was afforded this evening. “Kate

-Tevano” (Arthur’s wife) was coming across to my house, and when almost

-at my door she gave a scream of terror and retired at once back again. I

-rushed out to learn the cause, and found she had been bitten by a

-centipede in the toe. The blood was just oozing out, and there were the

-distinct marks of his two fangs. In about ten minutes she was in great

-agony, and in the course of the evening her foot swelled and the pain

-was most terrible, and she couldn’t bear anything near it. Poor child, I

-left her in floods of bitter tears before going to bed, and she expected

-to be in pain all night long. The natives have some antidote for it, and

-the women were applying that all the evening. I confess that I did not

-know myself what to do, except to bathe it with hot water. There was a

-great hunt for the venomous little reptile, but of course he had made

-himself scarce. How he got on her foot, and why he bit her, no one

-knows, but there are multitudes of the creatures here, and perhaps the

-mystery is that people are not more often bitten. They have scorpions

-too here whose bite is very venomous, but one doesn’t often hear of

-their biting. There is a very large ant here called the ‘gandee’ to

-which I have a great aversion, and its bite is very sharp. Snakes here

-are not venomous, but the people have an instinctive dread of them, but

-they do not trouble us much. There is a hideous creature which lives in

-the thatch of the houses, an ugly toad-like lizard, with large red

-prominent eyes, which has such a tenacity of grasp with its feet that it

-sometimes even sticks so tight to the person it attacks as to take away

-the very skin in its grasp. Indeed, to me there are many strange and

-uncanny creatures in these islands to which I give as wide a berth as

-possible. Even in putting on your clothes you may find that a scorpion

-or centipede have taken up their quarters, in your hat you may find

-another monster, while most likely your shoes will be the tenement of

-some hideous reptile. Use and experience cannot rid one of a shudder

-when one thinks what may be, and yet if one is always anticipating these

-evils one’s very life becomes a burden.

-

-

-_Tuesday, 27th July._--I visited poor Kate this morning as soon as I got

-up, and found her still in considerable pain and her foot a good deal

-swollen. She had slept but little during the night, and was still very

-tearful. However, her friends assured her that the poisonous effects

-would soon pass away, and it proved true, for I saw her walking, or

-rather limping about during the course of the forenoon. I was anxious to

-see a centipede this morning, and by and bye a man came bringing one

-which he held tightly by head and tail. It was a pretty creature and not

-so black as some I have seen, the legs indeed were of an orange yellow

-colour. It tried very hard to riggle away, but the ruthless boys soon

-put an end to its existence. How many legs it actually has I did not

-stop to count, but I saw its nasty fangs and preferred keeping a

-respectable distance from them.

-

-A nasty lizard such as I have before mentioned was shortly after

-discovered in the thatch of my house just over my head, and captured

-after an exciting hunt. One creeps when these creatures are brought so

-near one, and is thankful for daily protection from them.

-

-To-day has been the occasion of an important event here, viz: the

-thatching of a gamal (men’s quarters). This, indeed, is one of the

-greatest events known here, and there has been much feasting and

-festivity. The men do the thatching, and neighbours and strangers from a

-distance come to assist. There must have been quite a hundred men at

-work to-day, and it was the part and duty of the women to prepare food

-for them, and judging by the quantity spread out to-night they must have

-been kept pretty busy at work.

-

-The house was a large one, and it took most of the day to finish it. The

-roof when complete was most neat, and a perfect protection from heat and

-wet for many years to come. The thatch is made from the frond of the

-sago palm and very durable. Cocoanut fronds are sometimes used, but they

-do not make so neat a roof nor nearly so lasting.

-

-These native houses, although seemingly such poor structures, take some

-time and skill in building, and are very fair habitations when finished.

-They are rather low according to our ideas of comfort, but the natives

-grow accustomed to a crouching posture within doors, and they say the

-low roof does not catch the wind so easily, nor is the interior so cold.

-This is a consideration for people with no clothing, and I know myself

-from experience how cool it sometimes is here. Indeed, this very year I

-have never passed a night without being covered with a blanket, and even

-then I have not quite kept the cold away. A native, however, generally

-sleeps near a fire, and the interior of their houses are very snug.

-After the work was done this evening there was a great brew of kava, a

-drink made from the root of the kava plant, but here called “Malowo,”

-and highly intoxicating. There is much ceremony in connection with the

-drinking of this beverage, which as far as I have seen, if taken in fair

-moderation, produces strong inebriation, but is not an excitant, nor

-does it leave any ill effects when once the narcotic effects pass off.

-Any one who drinks is supposed to do so fasting, in order, I believe,

-that the draught may have the more effect. One or two cups are enough to

-produce intoxication, but of course men will make beasts of themselves

-in the drinking of kava, as well as of any other strong drink. Here it

-is prepared from the green root, and grated up with a rough, round coral

-stone, then squeezed into cups made of the half of a cocoanut shell,

-strained and mixed with water, after which it is ready for imbibation.

-To look at it is like soap suds, and to the taste it is like what I

-should suppose that compound resembled, with an additional admixture of

-rhubarb and magnesia, with a suspicion of strong senna or black draught.

-Indeed I think it is about the nastiest potion conceivable, and no

-wonder the drinker takes an unconscionably long time in swallowing the

-compound, and when finished would almost rather he had never drunk it. I

-was very glad to see most of our own people at school and prayers, but I

-believe some have reserved the ‘nightcap’ till nearer bed-time. When the

-drowsiness is over I believe a craving for food results, and then the

-appetite is appeased even if it be in the middle of the night.

-Certainly, however, a man is never quarrelsome over his cups, but a

-drowsiness and torpor creep over the most quarrelsome and irrepressive

-after the draught. The mode of preparation similar to that practised

-here obtains in all the Northern New Hebrides, as far as I know, but at

-Mota and the Banks’ Islands generally, and in Fiji it is prepared by a

-process of mastication, and is not nearly so intoxicating in its

-effects. At Santa Cruz and in the Solomon Islands the use of the kava is

-unknown, but instead they chew the betel nut.

-

-I had the old men for school to-night, and very interesting it was, old

-blind Sulu (Daniel) was among the number and paid the greatest

-attention, assenting in a marked fashion when anything especially

-pleased him. Poor fellow, he finds wonderful comfort in his religion,

-and is a most regular attendant at all services and at school. He gets

-about wonderfully in spite of his blindness, and does wonderful things

-for a man so totally blind. His patience and cheerfulness under his

-affliction are marvellous, and he seems to live in hopeful anticipation

-of the time when he shall see his Lord and Master face to face, Whom now

-he sees with the inward eyes of his spirit. He is the only blind man

-here, and I have never seen but one dumb man in these islands.

-

-

-_Wednesday, 28th July._--Our people had a great dance last night after

-school which they kept up with great spirit and vigour until an early

-hour this morning. The occasion was the thatching of the new gamal, and

-a great many took part, and never once intermitted their vigour from the

-start to the finish. The dance is called a “Sagoro,” but the chief part

-of it consists of singing with a clapping of hands and peculiar dancing

-in time. It is no easy work, and when I went to see them about the

-middle of the performance the perspiration was running down their

-bodies. Some of the songs are very pretty, but the movement of the dance

-is not particularly graceful or elegant. The women stand in a ring

-outside, and what is called “weluwelu.” This ‘weluing’ consists in

-keeping the feet close together and moving the knees from right to left

-besides joining in the chorus. Their shrill voices sound quite weird

-along with the deep tones of the males, but by no means discordant.

-Native songs have mostly an air sung by one voice, and a chorus joined

-in by all, and these Maewoese are noted for their songs. I did not

-attempt to go to sleep before the performance was over, and the

-consequence was a slight dilatoriness this morning, which as might be

-expected, was not only manifest in my case. However, after morning

-duties here I started with Arthur Huqe and Patrick for Mandurvat,

-passing through the pretty snug little village of Naruru on the way.

-Here we found a man by name ‘Tamaragai’ sitting with his pretty wife and

-child in the neat enclosure in front of his house. All the other

-denizens of the village according to the invariable custom which

-prevails here, had scattered to the four winds. After the dew is off the

-bushes here there is a general exodus from all the villages, and at noon

-it is useless to look for any one at home, for all are abroad. They are

-very industrious people and find perpetual occupation in their gardens

-or elsewhere from morning till evening. They say if they stay at home

-they do nothing but sleep, and a native has not many resources for

-occupying his time indoors. They have a great dread of the dew, for they

-say it engenders elephantiasis. Cases of this unpleasant disease are

-very prevalent here, and it looks very odd to see men and women with

-great swollen legs and feet and monster hands and arms. However, those

-afflicted with it do not seem to suffer so much pain as discomfort.

-

-We reached our destination after a somewhat weary walk on account of the

-dampness of the roads after the heavy rain in the night. I found a nice

-new school, and the teachers awaiting my arrival. The population is

-small, but the people are well-intentioned and anxious for instruction

-as exhibited by their having built the school entirely themselves. The

-leading spirit there and his wife came to-day and asked for Baptism, and

-desired that they should at once be put under instruction for that

-sacred Rite. This was cheering, and I hope the example thus set will be

-largely followed. Food according to native custom had been prepared, and

-green cocoanuts, and we spent some considerable time with the kind

-hearted people. They have only an inferior teacher, but he is very

-zealous to do his best according to the amount of wisdom and knowledge

-he possesses. They have some sort of daily service and school, but it

-must of necessity be very elementary.

-

-It is etiquette here for the host or someone appointed by him to see you

-off the premises, and this afternoon we were escorted some distance from

-the village by most of the male population, and when at what was looked

-upon as a respectable distance they stepped to one side, a sign that

-that was the last we should have of their society, and calling my name

-the host said, “Iya, go sage,” which is perhaps equal to “There, you go

-up,” to which I was supposed to respond calling his name, “Io, go toga,”

-“All right, you stop.” We then started for home. Arriving at Na Ruru the

-major part of the population were awaiting us, and Anthony the teacher

-with them, fear has driven him and his little flock to take refuge here,

-the third exodus they have made from their homes, and it is hoped that

-at last they will be safe from the ruthless incursions of the heathen

-bushmen. Poor fellow, he had begun to build a substantial new church,

-which was left with the other houses in their precipitate flight, but

-nothing daunted he has begun a third time to collect materials for

-another building. Had they continued however where they were, I doubt if

-they would have been molested. The only excuse for so doing would have

-been that they were friends of the villagers attacked by the bushmen. We

-sat for some time in conversation with the friendly people until the

-sinking sun warned us to be up and moving homewards. After prayers and

-singing, which we always have by an unvariable custom instead of school

-on Wednesday evenings, I received a request from some heathen strangers,

-twenty in number, that they might dance before me. I assented, and now

-at a late hour they are still at it, and going ahead with such vigour

-that I do not like to stop them. This dance is a piece of policy, for I

-am supposed to give them a handsome gratuity at the end, and the request

-to-night has been for tobacco. I am supposed also to be very liberal on

-these occasions, and certainly they have earned their wages. Their dance

-is very like that of the Tanrig people, but of course the songs are

-somewhat different, and to my taste not so pleasing. It is certainly

-curious that people living really in such close proximity should speak a

-dialect so utterly different that I can scarcely understand a word they

-say. I always assent to their dancing for it brings them here in large

-numbers, and for no ulterior purposes, and I like in every way to

-cultivate all friendly feeling between ourselves and our neighbours.

-Their powers of endurance are wonderful, there were many small boys

-among the dancers to-night, and the hands of my watch pointed to nearly

-2 o’clock a.m. before they finished, and previously they must have

-walked some twelve or fifteen miles over very rugged country. It must be

-considered too that these dances are performed without any intermission,

-and carried through with great vigour to the very end. I believe they

-had contemplated going on till morning, but that would be too terrible.

-Now as I write this they are gone, and the place is as quiet as if I

-were alone the sole inhabitant. I am now quite ready for bed and have

-really been so for hours, but the din and noise would render sleep an

-impossibility. God grant that in time these heathen songs may be changed

-for Christian hymns.

-

-

-_Thursday, 29th July._--My house has been thronged all day with heathen

-visitors, and I have tried to say something about our blessed religion.

-I hope they were duly impressed. They certainly gave me a warm

-invitation to visit them which I shall not be backward to accept, and

-moreover they promised to pick me out two or three boys to go to Norfolk

-Island. One man was most anxious to visit Norfolk Island, and I promised

-him that if he were so minded when the ship came back his wish should be

-gratified. I dare say I was quite safe in my promise, for no doubt he

-will cry off at the last. However, I hope I may get the boys. Everything

-was a matter of astonishment to these poor people, who have rarely if

-ever seen a white man, and a trumpet and pop gun which I gave a small

-boy produced the most unbounded delight. I wish my good friend

-Archdeacon Stock and Miss Kreeft had been here to see what unfeigned joy

-their kind gifts produced. A prettily dressed doll I brought with me,

-and which came too, I think, from Wellington, has been the seven day

-wonder during my visit. Yesterday one of the boys threw it down by

-accident, and the frail waxwork fell to pieces. There has been more

-lament over that lifeless toy than over half a dozen ordinary female

-human beings. Agnes, however, this morning disgorged a beautiful doll of

-her own, which she got from a Christmas tree, carefully wrapped in ample

-folds of calico, and the Bushmen I think will never lose the impression

-the revelation of its beauty produced upon them.

-

-How true it is that little things please little minds, and what a boon

-it is that the adage is so true. To us, whom civilization and the

-natural fitness of things have raised so far above nature, it is a

-matter of a striking character to see these heathens on their travels.

-They are burdened with absolutely nothing except a club or bow and

-arrows in their hands. Their dress is but a slight remove from the

-original fig leaf of the garden of Eden, and they carry neither bedding

-nor food. They sleep anywhere and eat what they can get. Their endurance

-in the matter of food too is extraordinary, whether they eat or whether

-they eat not does not seem to affect them, and in this way they beat us

-all to fits on the march. These Bushmen tell me they prefer making a

-journey in rain for it is cooler, and the only change of raiment they

-need at the end is to dry nature’s clothing before a fire. They are a

-very hardy race, I suppose from being inured to hardship all their

-lives.

-

-I missed poor blind Sulu from school to-day, and on enquiring for him

-was told that his pet pig, whose tusks are getting long and very sharp,

-importuned him beyond bearing, and that in kicking out to get rid of him

-the tusk ran into his foot and almost right through it. Poor old fellow,

-I am going by and bye to see what I can do to administer comfort to him.

-

-Arthur too is very much out of sorts, and could not put in an appearance

-at school to-day. For some months he has suffered from lassitude and

-weakness, and has been troubled with nasty sores. Fortunately I have a

-bottle of Hop Bitters with me, the effect of which I am going to try

-with him. Fancy the popularity of this wonderful tonic when it even

-finds its way to these distant islands! I have known it used with very

-beneficial results, and I hope Arthur may improve under its influence

-and strengthening properties.

-

-

-_Friday, July 30th._--A somewhat idle and prurient curiosity led me with

-some of our people to ‘Uta’ this morning to witness a sort of masked

-ball about which I had heard a great deal, and which was supposed to be

-something quite extraordinary. We started fairly early in the morning,

-and arrived at the place after a long, hot, and fatiguing walk. The

-ceremonies were not perfectly arranged when we got there, and we waited

-a long, weary time. It was mainly through my urging that they began when

-they did, and after all the affair was disappointing.

-

-The initial performance was a song sung by four men to an accompaniment

-beaten on bamboos, but that was by no means impressive. The females

-during this performance advanced and squatted around the performers and

-poor things were almost roasted alive under the blazing rays of the

-midday sun. When the song was finished the maskers rushed out, 17 in

-number with very curious and savage-looking head pieces, and petticoats

-of long sago palm leaves reaching almost to the ground. They presented a

-very weird and uncanny appearance certainly as they danced forth and

-back and uttered their gruff “Ugh, ugh, ugh, ugh.” I do not wonder at

-weak minded females and small children being very terrified of them. The

-head pieces were decided works of art, and very well made. Thirteen were

-almost entirely of the same make and pattern and are called “Rauwe,”

-three were again somewhat of a different shape and fashion called

-“Tamate,” and one very elongated and strangely devised mask also called

-a ‘Tamate’ completed the list. When the dancing was over which was

-called ‘Welu,’ the Rauwes rushed flying about all over the place, and

-the wiser course was to keep out of their way. In former days I believe

-they carried heavy sticks, or even clubs, and struck at anyone who

-failed to get out of their way. Boys and females were the chief objects

-of their attacks, and sometimes considerable injury resulted. Of course

-if any one retaliated and gave blow for blow, a skrimmage of perhaps

-serious and general nature resulted, and ended probably in lives being

-sacrificed.

-

-To-day these rough maskers carried clubs and long handled axes, and

-nothing was feared from them. The tamates were much more quiet and

-danced quietly about like so many kiwis (native New Zealand bird), and

-molested no one. They represent a higher grade in the social scale and

-their intentions are always pacific. For some days after the ceremony

-they are allowed to sail about the country and take what they please in

-the shape of food, &c. if it happens to come in their way, indeed I

-believe the people put it out for them and render every assistance to

-send them away full handed. The tamate mask has no eyehole, but the

-rauwe head piece has every facility for observation to facilitate its

-hilter skilter rush. The native idea of these things I believe is that

-if anyone dies who has not paid for these masks, he is haunted by them

-in the hereafter, at their places of departed spirits, “Banoi.” The

-tamates protect the disembodied spirits and conduct them safely to their

-final destination in Banoi. Moreover, I believe that those who die

-without propitiating these tamates and rauwes by gifts of pigs and mats

-are transformed into flying foxes, and adorn for ever the courts of an

-ill-fated Banoi. When the ‘welu’ was over, great cakes of cooked food

-were disgorged from their covering of leaves and distributed, the men

-behind a very curious screen called “Bugoro” distributing to men, and

-the women on one side of the village square distributing to women. The

-busy and animated scene was often disturbed by one or more of the rauwes

-rushing wildly about, and the women utterly regardless of food or

-hospitality, tore hilter skilter in screams of terror to some place of

-temporary security. It was now getting late, and as we had a journey

-before us and the performance was virtually over, except the kava

-drinking, we wished our friend good-bye and started for home, getting

-here in time for dinner, both by the time of day and by the condition of

-an appetite which had not been appeased since morning. On the whole I do

-not think the ceremony was at all worth the labour it cost to witness,

-and having seen it once, one would scarcely care to trouble about it a

-second time. However, it has its due effect upon the natives of both

-sexes, and it is looked upon by many as of paramount importance as

-regards both the present time and the future. To the newly initiated it

-gives certain social rights and privileges, but the strict observance

-with many is a thing of the past. It has only to do with the males,

-females may enjoy no special benefit from the practice except to assist

-as ornamental observers, and to bring beast burdens of food for

-distribution. What becomes of their poor souls hereafter is a matter for

-no anxiety or consideration, indeed I suppose the doubt is as to their

-possessing such things as souls at all, so that their final destination

-can only be a matter of supreme indifference and of the most

-insignificant importance. A hazy indefinite belief therefore these

-people have in some hereafter, and they endeavour to make some provision

-for it while they can, but they have no distinct form of religion, nor

-any images to which they offer worship. They have some kind of

-propitiatory sacrifice however of food and shell money, and whatever

-prayer they have is made to the spirits of their ancestors. Almost

-invariably a dying man calls to his father, and we have frequently

-noticed that when a sick person arrives at this stage of illness, his

-case is very bad indeed, if not hopeless. Yesterday as we were waiting

-at the entrance to the village, the people called my attention to a

-peculiar kind of red grass which had been chewed up, and the refuse

-strewn about all over the path, and they told me that this was done by

-the master of ceremonies to make the visitors take delight and interest

-in the festivities, and to raise the wish in the minds of the

-uninitiated to swell the ranks of those who had already taken the

-initiatory steps in social rank. Like all natives of course these people

-are utterly superstitious, and any little thing of a slightly

-extraordinary nature serves to determine or deter their mode of action.

-There is a certain class of persons among them who read these signs and

-comment upon them, just as the ancient oracles, and these persons are

-consulted in every matter of public or private interest. No one takes a

-journey or engages in any matter without recourse to this oracle, but as

-of old in case of failure, the matter is explained ambiguously.

-Superstition indeed creeps into almost every concern of daily life, and

-its effect upon one would be very wearying and irritating, except of

-course that superior mindedness ought to condescend and bear with such

-human frailties when one considers the education under which these poor

-folks have been brought up from generation to generation. Much, I think,

-of this weak mindedness is passing away under Christian regime, and more

-and more I suppose will it disappear as the day breaks and the shadows

-flee away.

-

-

-_Saturday, July 31st._--A peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed that I

-could not sleep even under a blanket. The people all experienced the

-same cold, and they said it was because of the calmness of the night and

-the heavy dew. Had there been a fire near, I could readily have got up

-to sit over it. The nights here are generally cool, but last night was

-absolutely cold. What shall I do when I go to England? This morning

-however, it is supremely lovely, and the wind in the S.W. for a wonder,

-for the S.E. Trades usually blow nine months out of the twelve. This

-morning I tried a photograph, which I dare say will prove a failure,

-from the extra care I took to prevent all mistakes. I only attempted

-one, but I hope I shall gain courage and experience as I go on and be

-able to reproduce some of these lovely views here. Of course every view

-is shut in more or less by the density of the surrounding bush, but this

-village has a considerable clearing and a good long vista for a

-photograph. My first attempt was on the church with some natives in the

-foreground, but the view will miss a great deal in a picture, owing to

-the absence of the beautiful colouring. It seems the fashion now-a-days

-here to build houses, and large parties to-day were busy thatching two

-new ones. I went with Patrick, Arthur Huqe and some more of the boys to

-Ruosi where we had a delicious bathe in the river, washed our clothes,

-caught prawns which we cooked very ingeniously in a bamboo. The prawns

-are put into the bamboo with water, and then placed on the fire with the

-orifice slightly elevated. It soon starts boiling, and to prevent the

-bamboo (always a green one) burning through it is constantly turned

-round and round, and in a very short time the prawns come out cooked

-red, and ready for eating. Cooked in salt water they are very nice, and

-they are looked upon as an especial delicacy when eaten with cocoanut

-cream. It is perfectly surprising what a number of dishes these natives

-wot of, and how frequently they vary their menu. Here they are

-especially good cooks, and I like most of their dishes very much. They

-are all slightly indigestible, but that one somehow expects. In most

-Melanesian islands the yam is the staple article of diet, but here the

-taro has the preference, and is planted in larger quantities. The yam

-likes a dry situation, but the kind of taro in common use here

-flourishes in a damp soil, and this is prepared for it by a neat and

-skilful system of irrigation.

-

-While we were sitting there at Ruosi one of the men told me a curious

-custom they have here. I knew him of old to be an habitual and heavy

-kava drinker, now he told me he never drank it and had not for months.

-It appears that persons who enjoy a certain rank can deny the use of

-this beverage to any one they like, and they place a sort of ‘tabu’ over

-the kava bowl, and this tabu is not taken off again until a pig or its

-equivalent is paid. A short time ago kava drinking became so general in

-the school as to impede the working of it, for teachers and scholars

-drank alike. The boys and young men therefore met together and laid

-mutual tabus upon each other, and for some time past very little kava

-has been drunk by those attending, and no one of those on whom the tabu

-was laid has chosen yet to take it off.

-

-This same man told me another curious custom they have with respect to

-revenge. If a man has a grudge against another and he wishes to kill

-him, or if he wishes to kill someone as a set off against someone

-belonging to him having been killed, he refuses to wash his hands until

-such time as they can be washed with blood. He told me of three

-brothers, Bushmen, who swore to kill a man apiece, the two younger

-brothers have already performed their part of the contract, but the dirt

-is still thick on the hands of the eldest, and he still means murder

-when he can get the convenient opportunity. It does not matter much, I

-believe, who the victim is as long as he has not many friends to

-retaliate. Poor weak inoffensive mortals in this way often lose their

-lives, innocent sacrifices to heathen brutalism and bloodthirstiness. We

-came home in the cool of the most glorious evening, a strange contrast

-in its peace and loveliness to the rage and horror of savage brutalism.

-A quiet evening service and the song of melody seemed more in tune with

-the scene without, and I trust that the Peace of God which passeth all

-understanding may ever keep our hearts and minds in the knowledge and

-love of God and of His Son Jesus Christ.

-

-I gave notice last Sunday of Holy Communion to-morrow, and this evening

-I held a Communicants’ class at which were present the two Arthurs and

-Patrick. Anthony and Samuel are too far away to be able to attend. I

-cannot but esteem it a high privilege and blessing to be enabled to

-receive and dispense the Bread of Life here in this once heathen

-village, and I pray that we may be strengthened and refreshed for our

-work, and show forth God’s praise not only with our lips but in our

-lives, and by giving up ourselves more fully to His service. May the

-time too be hastened when some of these good people may be permitted to

-partake of the visible tokens of redeeming love.

-

-It is now late, and except for the singing of crickets, perfectly still,

-fit prelude, I trust, to a peaceful Sabbath.

-

-

-_Sunday, August 1st._--Another peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed

-that I could not sleep although I had taken care to make proper

-preparations against it. How these poor ill clad, blanketless people

-fare I cannot make out, but no doubt they pile on the wood. It was most

-perfectly calm all through the night, and this morning there was a very

-heavy dew. The wind was blowing from some westerly quarter, and it has

-continued there with some strength all the day. We began our day very

-early with a Celebration of the Holy Communion. The two Arthurs,

-Patrick, and myself made up the quorum. It was a nice, quiet, refreshing

-time, and a fresh and green oasis in a somewhat arid, spiritual desert.

-I think, perhaps, it belongs to the native character and disposition to

-do without certain things which are to us essential, and the loss even

-of the Holy Communion is not so serious deprivation to them as to us.

-Native minds, I fancy, adapt themselves too readily to the existing

-condition of things, and because they live in the desert they must never

-even pine for the food and water which is not directly attainable.

-Unless the Holy things of our religion are kept before them in constant

-practice they are too wont to dispense with them, and be content with

-the dry husks such as their neighbours around feed upon. I shall

-therefore try to keep up the regular administration of the Holy

-Communion both for the present strengthening and refreshing of their

-souls, and for a continual remembrance that the reception of it is

-necessary to salvation. Easy native natures are too apt to float along

-with the popular stream, and to be content with dry, dull teaching and

-drier, duller services, and I sometimes long for the time when we shall

-have a more ornate church and appointments, and a more elaborate ritual.

-I firmly believe it would be helpful to the congregation. Now we are too

-content with such things as we have, and they are poor at the best.

-

-After the Celebration we had school. We assembled first in the

-schoolhouse, sang a hymn and I said a Prayer, then divided into classes,

-I myself taking all the old men into the Church, and trying to explain

-the sense of the collect to them. I told them how God had prepared for

-them that love Him such good things as pass man’s understanding, and I

-asked them how we knew that. I told them that God had revealed these

-things to us by His Son Jesus Christ, and He had left His testimony with

-us in His Gospel, and the books which persons chosen by Him had written

-under the influence and direction of His Holy Spirit. Their religion was

-a matter of mere hearsay and conjecture, and had been handed on from

-mouth to mouth, and had grown as it came down after the manner of mere

-verbal testimony. There could be no doubt with us because we have the

-living testimony of Christ’s own words which never pass away. Their

-religion came from nowhere and no one knew of its beginning; of ours at

-all events we were sure. I told them too that in England and other

-countries, where arts and sciences were known and practised far beyond

-anything they could conceive of, there were things so marvellous that

-their understanding could not grasp even the faintest idea of them, and

-how much more marvellous, wonderful, and glorious must the things be

-which God has prepared for such as love Him. Why even here below we see

-great and wonderful and mysterious things which pass the understanding

-of the world’s wisest minds, and how much more wonderful still must the

-things be which are to be revealed hereafter, when the eye shall be

-purified to see, the ear to hear, and the senses to discern the beauty

-and true glory of them. And what does God, who thus prepares these

-blessed things for us, require of us? Why to love Him above all things.

-Each one of us had some darling idol, to which we offered the devotion

-of our hearts, but it must be torn down and removed if it comes before

-our love to God. And the end of this love was God Himself, and to dwell

-with Him for ever as inheritors of His gracious promises which exceed

-all that we can desire. The old fellows were very attentive, and

-interspersed running remarks, and when I had done I asked them to kneel

-down, and I said the Collect as a Prayer for them. Meanwhile the other

-teachers had school with their scholars in the schoolhouse. The first

-class of boys and girls had to say their Collect by heart, and after

-that they were questioned on its meaning. School was closed with Prayer

-and a Hymn, and then I was ready for breakfast, very dry, uncooked rice

-with sugar and cocoanut cream, and a cup of delicious Norfolk Island

-coffee. Morning Prayer followed in due course before the day got too

-hot, and after this everyone was busy with their Sunday meal for the

-afternoon. The day was as hot as the night was cold, but it was most

-glorious, and all nature seemed to be keeping its Sabbath. The evening

-was perfectly serene and peaceful, a fit termination to a quiet, restful

-day.

-

-In the evening I had the teachers, and after that service at which I

-preached from the gospel of the day, “Except your righteousness exceed

-the righteousness of the Scribes and Pharisees.” They were very

-attentive during my remarks, so I trust I was understood. I told them

-God did not want us merely to come to school and church but He wanted

-the devotion of the heart, it was not outward righteousness He wished

-for, but inward truth and honesty and straightness. The Pharisees were

-very good Churchgoers, but their heart was not right with God, &c., &c.

-

-After Service we had singing which they always enjoy, and even now I

-hear their voices in the School house singing “There’s a friend for

-little children.” I had intended to have made an excursion to the

-neighbouring villages to-day but I could not manage the time, the day

-having gone so rapidly. Now it is very cool and betokens another cold

-night but Oh! how calm and peaceful!

-

-

-_Monday, August 2nd._--Another peculiarly cold night ushered in a most

-glorious day. A very heavy dew lay all round, and until the sun was

-quite high in the heavens the cold was very perceptible, and a flannel

-coat was very agreeable. I took two photographs early and trust they are

-good, but it would be very hard to reproduce the original so lovely as

-it appeared in the morning light. The scene too was animated with the

-cheery voices of the people, the crowing of the cocks, the merry

-laughter of the boys, and even the squealing of the pigs as they

-followed their owners for their morning food, lent additional and

-characteristic charm to the occasion. All this one cannot photograph,

-but it is necessary to suppose all this to give an idea of the village

-as it is on these glorious mornings. Here we are several hundred feet

-above the sea level, and a good way inland so that a pleasant day breeze

-always fans the air, and keeps the place gratefully cool under cover of

-a roof, or in the shade. I believe one could live here quite comfortably

-all the year round, and for myself I never feel better than I do here.

-There is such a freedom too about life here that one can carry a light

-heart and a contented mind in a healthy body. To-day almost without

-exception the people are off to the beach to windward. At this time of

-year the tides are very low, and leave the reefs almost entirely

-uncovered. Fish and crabs and other sea oddities are therefore left

-exposed, and the first named are shot by the men in the pools, and the

-women collect the latter, which are looked upon as choice articles of

-diet. Just now I am left quite solitary, but I have just dismissed a

-bevy of ladies who came to see the present seven days wonder, my

-magnetic fish. They cannot fathom the mystery at all why when one point

-of the fishing rod as they call it, is presented to the fish they

-eagerly rush at it, and why when the other they rapidly retire. They

-solve the problem by saying it is a “Wui,” (spirit). And it must seem

-strange to them as all our belongings must being of an order of art, so

-far removed from their conceptions or achievements. A kerosene lamp to

-this day is a marvel to them, and the manipulation equally mysterious,

-why it should flare up when turned one way, and why it should die when

-turned the other. One old woman who has been very sick and up to-day for

-the first time, came with the crowd and greeted me in the most maternal

-manner, grasping my hand in both her own, and calling me “Baua,” an

-obsolete word now, but belonging to a district called “Loqala” which was

-utterly devastated years ago by enemies among whom were these very

-people of Tanrig. This old lady and her son Samuel, now my head teacher

-at Tasmouri, are the sole survivors I believe, and she retains the

-expression or appelation by which a grandmother greets her grandson.

-

-I brought a box of refuse toys from Norfolk Island to which our boys and

-girls there have grown superior, and the exhibition and distribution of

-them created quite a furore. One would never suppose in these days of

-superior enlightenment that any people could be found simple enough to

-go into ecstacies over a halfpenny toy, but these women and children

-have gone off perfectly enraptured with their new possessions, and I

-dare say they will treasure them up for many a day and find pleasure in

-the contemplation and exhibition of them. One poor young mother has just

-brought in great distress her infant child which she says is suffering

-from a pain in its side, and the only remedy I can conceive of is a dose

-of castor oil. The father comes around to my side of the table, and

-whispers that it has not been ‘washed’ yet, meaning that it has not been

-Baptized, and that it has no name. While writing this Samuel appeared

-with another friend from Tasmouri, and I went with them to the beach

-where all the population had previously gone. Our path lay through the

-carefully and skilfully irrigated taro fields, and of course it was very

-bad in some places. Crossing one place I made a false step and went up

-to my knees, it was a fitting judgment on my pride for I refused the

-assistance of a stalwart follower’s back, which had borne me dry and

-safely over two such places before. I presented a strangely harlequin

-appearance with white flannel trowsers above the knee, and black mud

-gaiters below. However appearances are easily pardoned here, and the

-only grief was at my own discomfort. The people of course all said it

-was because the roads were so bad, but that was too palpable a truism,

-and was no relief to my feelings. Bootless and trowserless, these paddy

-paths make no difference to them, and mud has not the same appearance on

-a black skin. However we went to the sea-shore and saw the sport which

-was not much. One very large fish was caught with a hook and line, and

-the women had great horse-loads of shell fish, but generally the bowmen

-came off badly. The tide was out to the utmost limit of the reef, and

-quite half-a-mile from the shore the rocks were entirely exposed. Of

-course there was some very good reason for the failure and ill luck, and

-I was somewhat surprised to hear the wind blamed. It so happened that

-what of that element there was, was off shore, but if it had been only

-blowing in shore it would have driven in the fish. However there was

-disappointment depicted on every countenance, and there was some

-trifling relief to the feelings in putting the blame on the wind.

-Probably if the wind is all right to-morrow something else will be

-wrong, and so on. What a wonderful place in the English language those

-two little words ‘if’ and ‘but’ have, and how they qualify almost every

-action of mankind, and how usually are they made use of in

-self-extenuation. How scarcely possible is it to describe a single

-character without the use of one or other of them! He would be a very

-nice fellow ‘if.’ She would be an estimable woman ‘but.’ On our homeward

-road I marched boldly through mud and water taking pride I suppose in

-revenging myself, and showing my unmentionables that now the pink of

-their whiteness was off, they might just as well be a little more dirty.

-However, a refreshing bath was some return for my chagrin and

-discomfort, and I hastened home for a clean change. The cooks brought me

-two deliciously cooked fish for dinner, and were very disappointed when

-I sent them back untasted. I am never very partial to fish, and in these

-latitudes my digestive organs rebel even against the smell of them.

-However, the boys very soon picked the bones, and perhaps were not sorry

-that I had not partaken. There is great feasting going on to-night with

-both sexes, the men with their fish supper and the women with

-shell-fish.

-

-Everywhere to-day we saw the bush lit up with the bright red “Rarava,” a

-gorgeous tree, which flowers at this time of the year, and gives its

-name to the winter season. The other season is called “Magoto” from a

-reed of that name which shoots in spring, and these are the only native

-seasons of the year. There does not seem to be however any very marked

-distinction or peculiar line of demarcation between summer and winter as

-regards the heat and cold, but in fact it does seem to be warmer in the

-“Magoto” and cooler in the “Rarava.” To an Englishman however it is

-always hot, and he does not detect any material difference. One shivers

-now to think of ice and snow and of such concomitants of the winter

-season, for here of course they are absolutely unknown.

-

-

-_Tuesday, August 3rd._--It gets somewhat monotonous to write every day

-of cold nights, but this last one has been no exception. The cold is so

-peculiar and penetrating that clad in flannel from head to foot, and

-covered with a blanket and rug, I failed to keep it out, and slept very

-badly in consequence. When I did sleep, too, I was troubled with dreams

-and fancied myself in Ireland hunted by ‘Moonlighters.’ I had proposed

-to go to a very distant district called “Golvanua” to-day, but at the

-eleventh hour my escort cried off and I could not go alone. I cannot

-quite say why it is, but natives when they are about to make an

-excursion almost invariably start on the spur of the moment without

-making any previous appointment, or specifying any distinct time.

-Whether they wish to elude ‘Fate’ and deprive it of the chance of being

-unpropitious by stealing a march, or whether the fear of material foes

-induces them to do these things secretly so that they may not be

-cognizant of their movements, or what it is I do not know, but fact it

-is that if you want to make a journey, you must abide the native’s time

-and conveniences for they will seldom assent to yours if premeditated or

-prearranged.

-

-I quite expect that some fine morning, before I am out of bed perhaps,

-my escort will be awaiting me outside my door, and anxiously and

-impatiently desiring to start at once. Natives make no preparation for a

-journey, they have no impedimenta of travel, and lightly clad, and

-lightly weighted, they are ready at any moment to start, and a long or

-short stay is all the same to them. They want no canteens or bedding or

-change of clothing, and they can lay their heads down in any spot, and

-rest and refresh themselves, and be ready for any emergency. They do not

-even need as much as a tooth brush and pair of slippers for their

-excursions, and marvel at our wanting so much to them unnecessary

-luggage. I believe I should make many more journeys, if I could

-accomplish them with so little inconvenience and discomfort.

-

-Samuel went back this morning, and I am to go to Tasmouri on Friday for

-a week. He gives a very good account of his work there and I am anxious

-to see and judge for myself. The whole Community there are Baptized, and

-most exemplary Christians they are. They are very nice lively

-good-natured people too, but are not very numerous. Indeed these Maewo

-villages have dwindled down to very few inhabitants, from one cause and

-another, and a large measure of the decrease is owing to the wide spread

-practice of infanticide. Now in this district that practice, thank God,

-is checked and the population is again on the increase. Moses who was

-here with Samuel to-day asked me to Baptize while at Tasmouri his fourth

-child, three boys of his are already Baptized, and such mothers as his

-wife are a blessing to the race. Here two mothers have three children

-apiece, and several have two. I wish however the mothers would bring up

-their children a little better, they are the perfect slaves of their

-offspring, and give into them in everything. Talk about spoilt children,

-I have to roar every day of my life to some little urchin, screaming his

-lungs out because his mother does not do at once what he wants. The

-mother beats at one moment and coaxes at another, and the child grows up

-anyhow, a burden to himself and a nuisance to his neighbours. I want a

-good superior minded and well educated mother here to give some

-practical advice. Arthur’s wife is but a child herself, and as devoid of

-gumption as the rest of them. Poor people, they do not know what trouble

-and misery they entail upon themselves and their children from a want of

-a little firmness, and well timed correction.

-

-It has been a most glorious day, and this morning I accepted an

-invitation from the boys to go to ‘Kerepei.’ The tide was very low and

-many of the people had preceded us, and were busy searching the reef and

-rocks for the much prized products of the sea shore. The little fellows

-got me most deliciously sweet green cocoanuts, and while I was bathing

-caught me a nice lot of prawns for my tea. Days spent in this way are

-very pleasant, for we get to know each other all the better, and I can

-exercise a continual supervision over their actions. I generally carry a

-paper or portable volume with me, and to-day the Church Times was my

-companion. The evening was most glorious and peaceful, but when the sun

-went down peculiarly cold. Now as I write I have a blazing fire in my

-house, and I feel the comfort of it. The poor ill clad people are

-shivering all around, and are off to their several domiciles to try and

-get some heat. The attendance at school to-night was worse than I have

-known it yet, and the cold was said to be the reason of it.

-

-

-_Wednesday, August 4th._--There seems a perfect rage for fishing just

-now, when the exceptionally low tides afford such advantages for the

-pursuit. School was no sooner over to-day, than there was a general

-exodus seaward of all the able bodied inhabitants of the place. They

-talk to-day of trying the “Tasigoro” to see what it yields. This

-Tasigoro is a tabu’d enclosure of so much of the reef as those who make

-it choose, and it is made in this way--one, two, three or indeed any

-number of people who have reached the rank of “welu” kill a certain kind

-of pig, and for ten days the killer or killers are supposed to subsist

-on pig’s flesh, at the end of ten days they go to the beach, and mark

-off the chosen portion of the beach with a long bamboo at either end,

-like a base for football, but on a somewhat larger scale, and tie on to

-the bamboo the leaf of a certain palm tree; the person or persons then

-bathe in that part of the sea, and the juice of the pig’s flesh which

-they have eaten, is supposed to have the effect of sanctifying in some

-way the place, and no one fishes within the enclosure until the “welus”

-choose to take the “tabu” off. There is a talk of doing this to-day, and

-the whole population turns out to it. Of course the whole length and

-breadth of the reef during these low tides is left high and dry, and the

-fish have wisdom enough to retire as the tide goes out, but some are

-dilatory like Lot in his flight from Sodom, and some stop to have a look

-back like his wife, these are therefore left behind in the several pools

-that are everywhere dotted about of more or less depth. Some fish again

-which feed upon the reef have natural channels of escape into deep

-water, but these are very skilfully guarded by the natives with large

-nets, and the fish are captured while making a rush to get out into the

-open sea. All these channels are carefully guarded, and a very large

-number of fish shut in from escape on the more or less exposed reef. The

-leaves of a certain shrub are used for the purpose of stupifying the

-fish in the deeper pools, and they are easily caught when under the

-influence of the stupification. Others again are shot with bows and

-arrows, others speared, others caught by hand until at times the haul

-numbers several thousands, of all sorts, sizes and descriptions. After

-this great catch of course there is much feasting and rejoicing, and

-according to their own old heathen superstitious ideas there is

-something sacred in the fish so caught. ‘Kava’ is largely drunk on these

-occasions and the festivities are prolonged for many days. After my

-experience the other day I did not care to go again, and followed Arthur

-and some others to ‘Rarava,’ whither I took my photographic camera, and

-shot off a most beautiful picture in nature. I hope it may prove so in

-development.

-

-William, one of the men, lit a fire and soon produced some fine large

-bread-fruit which were placed on the embers, and deftly turned over and

-over so as to be properly cooked all round. The result was that in about

-a quarter of an hour I was engaged upon a smoking hot loaf of bread,

-which eaten with scraped cocoa-nut is very nice indeed. Breadfruit is

-too much like boiled dough to be really very nice, but to me it is very

-palatable food. The black outside coating peels off very readily when

-well cooked, and leaves a round puddingy sort of compound to be eaten.

-Inside are seeds somewhat bigger than a marble, not unlike filberts,

-and these are generally eaten with the breadfruit, the hard outside husk

-easily peeling off, and leaving a large bean like kernel. “Duwu”

-prepared his in quite a new way to me. Having pealed off the outside

-crust caused by the cooking, he wrapped the whole fruit up in the long

-dracæna leaves, and tied up the neck very carefully. He then took a

-small bamboo, and beat the breadfruit into a soft pulp, giving it a few

-final bangs on the ground, the leaves were opened, and the pudding

-turned out on leaves resembling very much a squash, and then cut up like

-a vegetable marrow into slices and eaten with scraped cocoanut. This I

-think was nicer than the bare breadfruit. We were a little party of

-twelve of both sexes, and all shared alike, men and women eating

-together in the most friendly manner, and not only so but the men did

-the cooking and helped the women in the nicest way. I could not help

-thinking what a contrast it was to years gone by. There we were sitting

-every man under his own vine and under his own fig, with no apparent

-fear or apprehension of evil, and the most perfect harmony of the two

-sexes existing among us. Here you scarcely ever now see the husband

-without the wife, and where you see the wife you may know the husband is

-not far off. Amina and Eliza kindly got me some land crabs which I

-enjoyed for tea. These and prawns are readily obtainable, and make a

-nice occasional change.

-

-

-_Thursday, August 5th._--A strong Trade wind blowing fresh all night,

-and this morning it is still very gusty and disagreeable.

-

-To-morrow there is another house to be thatched, and those who are not

-crazed about fishing are off getting food. From the commencement to the

-finish, house building here is a matter of great importance. There are

-four kinds of houses, of which the ‘gamal’ is the chief. This is the

-men’s club, and the young men’s sleeping quarters. Within its walls the

-women may not enter, and there is a certain circumscribed boundary into

-which they may not trespass. All food cooked in the ‘gamal’ is partaken

-of by the men only, and a woman may not eat of it under any

-consideration. ‘Kava’ is prepared and drunk there also, and of this a

-woman may not drink. Within the gamal are various ovens according to the

-several degrees of rank, and those of the same grade eat out of one

-oven, and the rules of precedence are strictly adhered to. Fire used

-within the gamal may not be used in a private house. After a certain age

-all boys are supposed to live in the gamal, and that becomes their

-proper quarters until they marry and build houses of their own. Any man

-may sleep in the gamal and eat food there.

-

-The next house in importance is the “ima” or married man’s residence.

-Within this house the cooking of the food for the family is done, and

-the married couples live. This house is known from the rest, by having

-the front and back end worked with cane, and more pains are expended on

-the building of it. The third kind of house is the “vale,” within which

-there is no fire place for cooking, and this is used mostly as the

-apartments of the young females before marriage, and for stowing any

-treasures which may be inconvenient in the “ima.” The front and end of

-the ‘vale’ are made only of bamboos. A fourth kind of house is the “ima

-somu” (the Bank). In this house is kept the treasures of the village,

-and it is always known by a peculiarly neat front of reeds, and by a

-very curious sort of pallisade of reeds placed in a sort of semicircle

-around the front door. Within this house a fire is kept continually

-burning night and day, and the reason for this is that the most prized

-and valuable article of barter here is the smoked mat, and the blacker

-it can be smoked the more does it increase in value. As may be supposed,

-within these houses a most weird and odd sight presents itself. The

-gross darkness being only relieved by the glowing embers of the undying

-fire, the fresh black mats look like so many great flying foxes

-suspended over it.

-

-The importance of the several houses is therefore in this order, the

-“gamal,” “ima,” “vale,” and “ima somu.” When a building is finished

-there is always a great ceremony ranging in importance according to the

-description of the house. For the gamal the ‘house warming’ is a matter

-of much ceremonial called “nasu,” and a man is supposed to “nasu gamal”

-with a pig at least. Any live stock may be slaughtered in “nasu ima,”

-and fowls, or if possible fish, are mostly in requisition. Plain food

-only is required for the two latter, but all the same there must be some

-house warming, or the building would not be properly finished. The house

-I occupy is an “ima,” and being a proprietor of many pigs, I am going to

-add to the dignity and full completion of my residence, by slaughtering

-two innocent animals next Thursday (D.V.) and the school will get a

-general holiday and a pleasant evening. I do this partly because I want

-to give the boys some slight return for the pains they have been at in

-building the house, to get a piece of pork myself, and to give a holiday

-in honour of my return among them. They say they must dig an oven

-within the ‘ima’ to make the thing complete, but to this I object.

-To-morrow, all being well, I go to Tasmouri.

-

-

-_Friday, August 6th._--Morning Prayer, school and breakfast at Tanoriki,

-and then started with three others for Tasmouri. It was a most lovely

-day, and a fresh Trade wind fanned the air and kept the paths pleasantly

-cool. Beneath the deep, dark shade of the native forest, the strong

-burning heat of the morning sun was not oppressive, and the roads and

-bush were fortunately very dry. However, any exertion in this climate

-induces perspiration, and that one expects.

-

-The native guide swung along at a rapid pace, and we were not long in

-reaching “Uta,” where we rested for some time in the neat little school,

-and Takele regaled us with green cocoanuts, which were very acceptable.

-Poor Takele, who has only one enlightened friend to help him, finds a

-difficulty in getting his scholars together on a week day, and no

-wonder, as I suppose he knows very little more than they do themselves,

-and it is irksome to old people to spell over their A.B.C. day after

-day, and get no oral instruction. It is far more in consonance with

-their feelings and habits to go out for the day, either to the seashore

-or to their gardens, than to be trammelled with the cares and labour of

-school. On Sundays he says they turn up in large numbers, and generally

-some one goes to them from Tanoriki. I promised him a visit for Sunday

-week, all being well, and I shall try to keep my promise, for he

-deserves all the help we can extend to him. He has never been away, is a

-man now of middle age, and entirely self-taught. He is a most excellent,

-conscientious man, and tries to do all he can for his people, according

-to his limited amount of knowledge.

-

-He built the school himself and keeps it in most extraordinary order. In

-many cases he has acted as a deterrent on his countrymen, when they have

-proposed some heathen act which he has not thought to be within the

-bounds of strict rectitude, and I believe he tries to lead a good life

-as far as he knows. As far as morality goes, I do not think anyone would

-venture to bring an accusation against him. I have always intended to

-Baptize him, and perhaps this year I may put my intentions into effect.

-Leaving “Uta” we still marched on in single file, till we reached the

-brow of the cliff down which, of necessity, we had to descend, Tasmouri

-being on the other side of the island to windward. A striking and broad

-prospect greeted us from the hill top, and we saw besides Meralava and

-the wide expanse of ocean before us, the grand fertile plain belonging

-to the Tasmouri district, and the church and school visible in the far

-distance. At the foot of the steep cliff our way lay through the

-beautifully irrigated taro beds, and of course I had to pick my way to

-prevent being buried in mud. Leaving the gardens, we had a grand stretch

-of level country before us, and before long we came upon a merry party

-of Tasmouri people awaiting our arrival, some distance from their

-village. Being tired and hungry I pushed on ahead with some of the boys,

-and enjoyed a refreshing bathe and change of garments. Then came what I

-suppose I must dignify by the name of dinner, mostly native food, but

-eaten with the best sauce was as good as the best Lord Mayor’s feast,

-and I dare say as digestible. The Bishop’s kind present was most useful,

-and the canteen contained every article requisite for out of the way

-travellers. After the meal the people came home, and before long we had

-Evensong. I was quite surprised at the heartiness of the responses, the

-fluency of the reading, and the general brightness of the singing and

-service.

-

-The women sang out lustily with a good courage, and although a trifle

-slow the result was pleasing on the whole. With a little teaching the

-singing and service will be very nice. I find I have Baptized forty-six

-people here, two of whom have died, two have gone away in a labour

-vessel, and forty-two still remain. They are a very nice, genuine,

-exemplary community, and Samuel has kept them well together. They seem

-to me beyond the Tanrigese in point of mental ability, and readily take

-in fresh ideas. One or two of the young men are very superior fellows.

-This evening I felt the warmth of this place, by comparison with Tanrig,

-and for the first time for the year I have slept without any kind of

-covering. The reed bed I found somewhat hard, but one cannot expect

-everything, and is content with such things as one has. The condition of

-the people morally, socially and spiritually, simply reconcile one to

-any amount of bodily inconvenience. I can thank God and take courage.

-

-

-_Saturday, August 7th._--Most beautiful morning at Tasmouri. After

-Prayers and breakfast we all went for a picnic to a pretty place called

-“Ro[¨n]o nawo” meaning the sound of the surf, but why I don’t know. It is

-curious how the Mota word has got in here “nawo.” The word here for surf

-is “togovi” but nawo comes probably from Meralava. We all turned out for

-the holiday, men, women and children. The women did the cooking while

-the men and boys amused themselves in various ways, fishing, shooting,

-bathing or playing an animated game called “buka,” something between

-“prisoner’s base” and the old game of “tig.” Some of the young men

-amused themselves by shooting at a mark about thirty or forty yards

-distant. They made such good shooting at that distance, that I should be

-very sorry to give them a shot at me with a good well balanced poisoned

-arrow. At short distances of course they make very good work, and in

-their own skirmishes they don’t want to make long shots. I dare say by

-the side of a good English archer they would cut a sorry figure at a

-long shot, but for their own purposes they are excellent shots, and

-custom of course engenders skill. Their arrows are unfeathered, and I

-don’t expect will carry as true as the better made English arrow. Their

-bows are very strong and durable, being made curiously enough from a

-tree called the “Aru” (she oak). I spent my day pleasantly enough in

-reading and making pencil notes. Crabs and breadfruit was my luncheon,

-and a green cocoanut. The whole party assembled in the course of the

-afternoon, and the ovens were opened and their plentiful supply of food

-disgorged. I said grace and then there was a general fall to. The meal

-over we made preparation for a start homewards which we reached some

-time before sunset. On the way home the boys showed me in the water

-course a cocoanut tree which time had failed to rot or destroy, and the

-story according to native ideas was that this same tree was coexistant

-with the upheaval of the island, and had never changed, generation after

-generation handing on the fact of its existence and whereabouts.

-

-In the evening we had Prayers in the church and a nice hearty Service.

-Poor “Samuel” the head teacher is sick and has not been able to be with

-us to-day. I gave a short address at Evensong explanatory mostly of

-to-morrow’s programme. It is very warm here and one’s thoughts either

-cease to flow or one’s hand to write, anyhow I find a difficulty in

-inducing energy to write or my brain to cogitate.

-

-Except for the perpetual boom and surge of the restless ocean all is

-still and peaceful here at present.

-

-On Saturdays following the general and long prevailing custom of the

-Mission we have a whole holiday, and consequently this morning we had

-only the shortened form of Mattins such as we use here. Breakfast

-followed consisting of yam scraped and cooked in leaves, and the

-particular kind presented for my discussion this morning is called

-“laqa[¨n]a.” The natives are great cooks and have a very long list of

-various dishes on their menu.

-

-There are three principal modes of cooking food, however, such as yams

-and taro, (1) Roasted on the embers and the outside skin carefully

-scraped off as it gets hardened, this is called “tutunu,” (2) scraped on

-the rough edge of the tree fern, then wrapped in leaves like a large

-pudding and cooked in the hot stones, this is termed “loko,” (3) roasted

-on the fire until cooked, then beaten on a large wooden dish until as

-thin about as biscuit pastry, and cocoanut cream poured over, this is

-named “lutu.” The first two are the most common preparations, and the

-first perhaps most generally in use.

-

-The different kinds of “loko and lutu” are wonderful, and it would

-puzzle any one but a skilled native cook, to make any distinct varieties

-of dishes out of such unpromising materials.

-

-Both sexes are good cooks, and no wonder, as from the time they are able

-properly to run about, until the infirmities of old age creep on they

-are accustomed to shift for themselves. An English boy would fare very

-badly if he had to cook his own dinner, and provide for his own wants as

-early as some of these native children. But education and habit are

-everything, the latter of course is second nature.

-

-

-_Sunday, August 8th._--At Tasmouri. Beautiful but very warm morning.

-After breakfast we had Sunday School, at which every member of the

-village population was present. I was much pleased with the way four or

-five classes repeated by heart their catechism, and the collect for the

-week, and answered general questions on the subject. It showed one that

-school was a serious and important business both with teacher and pupil.

-We went from the school into church, where we had full Morning Service

-but without any Sermon. Service over, I was followed by the whole male

-population to Tasmate. The day was very hot, and we had been obliged to

-choose the hottest part of it for our walk. However we tumbled over the

-same creepers, knocked our heads against the same branches, brushed

-against the same bristly bushes, that the natives of Maewo have done

-ever since they peopled the island. No one ever thinks of trying to

-improve his own or his neighbour’s ways, and from being accustomed so

-long to the present condition of the paths, they are quite content to

-experience the discomfort for ever and aye, they were good enough for

-their own forefathers, why should not they be good enough for them.

-Being head and shoulders taller than most of our natives, I suffered

-untold agonies mentally and physically, but I submit to the necessity,

-knowing that unless I commence to improve matters myself, I may expect

-the same discomforts to the end of the chapter. My helmet on more than

-one occasion has saved my head very severe concussions, and to be

-bonnetted is no uncommon occurence. However, on we swung, I being

-thankful that the road was so level as it was, and at length arrived at

-Tasmate more fit to be comforted than to think of administering comfort

-to others. They have built a nice little school here, and by the way

-they turned up at the subsequent service it was manifest that they knew

-the use of it. Augmented by the Tasmouri people the little place was

-crowded to its fullest capabilities, and the heat and flies were not

-such as one would choose for ordinary enjoyment, but personal comforts

-with Missionaries are a secondary consideration. We had a nice service,

-and I gave a somewhat long address in spite of inconveniences, and when

-it was over I retired to the cool refreshing shade by the sea shore, and

-all at once everyone began to feel the heat and followed me there.

-However, our conversation ran in an edifying course, and I hope some

-were profited by it. The return home was the next consideration, and I

-must say it seemed formidable for a Sunday afternoon. We reached a place

-called “Na Seu,” and there I could not resist a bathe in the natural

-bathing place, under such a deliciously cool shoot of water. We came

-home by a new route which was said to be much shorter, but it turned out

-to be quite as long I think, and not nearly so pleasant walking.

-

-At “Uta riki,” where I formerly remember a good population, one man and

-a small child are the only surviving remnant. The rest are all scattered

-or dead. We asked him to come to Tasmouri and live there, but he would

-not consent on the spur of the moment. His son and relations left are

-mostly there. In matter of wives he has been a regular Blue Beard, and

-the last of a long list has just died, and left him a widower.

-

-We arrived in due course at Tasmouri, and after dinner all together,

-which the women had provided in our absence, we had Evensong, a very

-nice service with a Sermon from me. The women proposed singing

-afterwards, and this went on till late. At the Evening Service I

-Baptized the infant daughter of Moses, naming her Anika. Moses, wife,

-and four children are now a Christian family. His care of, and love for,

-his children gave me good food for my discourse afterwards, as did the

-case of ‘Dimeli’ and the remnant of his people migrating from the place

-where many had died, to a place where all were going to keep well and

-live, with the result that all have died with the exception of himself.

-There was no hope of life apart from God.

-

-

-_Monday, August 9th._--Very hot, oppressive day, and I was so ill

-throughout I did little or nothing. My efforts to get cool were utterly

-abortive. Great Christening festivities were going on all day. The

-fatted pig was killed and eaten with much thankfulness and rejoicing in

-the evening. At Evensong I screwed my courage up to a Sermon which was

-better listened to than delivered. Afterwards there was a dance.

-

-

-_Tuesday, August 10th._--I saw this morning a beardless youth, who is

-the tenth husband of a woman in the district. One of her sons is a

-full-gown man at Tasmouri, himself married many years. There is no

-accounting for taste, but on which side the love or taste is I do not

-know. Beauty of face and figure have little weight generally with

-natives, they think more of utility and position. They seem to me to

-have no idea of the sublime and beautiful either in woman or in nature

-according to our ideas, and in a very matter of fact way look to the

-practical side of the business. Polygamy here is the exception, and

-there is not so large a percentage of females as is found in some of the

-islands. However, if they are all as easily satisfied as the youth

-mentioned above, young girls will be at a premium. There is one man here

-at Tasmouri who has two wives, and he steadily refuses to divorce one or

-the other with a view to Baptism, and according to our present practice

-in the administration of that Holy Rite, we insist on monogamy.

-Strangely enough the son of this very man had five wives, four of whom

-he divorced in order to be Baptized. All the four divorced are now

-married and Baptized at Tasmouri.

-

-It was so intolerably hot in the village, I proposed that we should go

-to Ro[¨n]onawo, as I was going to Tasmate to sleep and that was about a

-half-way house. All the population followed me, and there we cooked our

-dinner and rested. After the meal we had a short service there on the

-beach which was very quiet and solemn, and then with most of the men I

-turned my steps towards Tasmate, Samuel and a few others, with the women

-going back to Tasmouri. There was a great shaking of hands, some

-profusion of tears among the women, and a great deal of Christian

-harmony between us all.

-

-Arriving at Tasmate we found another dinner awaiting us, and a hearty

-welcome. We had Prayers after dinner with a sermon from myself, in which

-I contrasted the present visit with those they must remember to have

-known in heathen days. Then the hands were full, but the heart was

-empty, now the heart was full of love and the hands carried no bow and

-arrows. We had great Hymn singing afterwards, and the men sat and

-talked outside about the present and the past. There are a few hearts

-here I can see being prepared for the good seed which may God sow in His

-good time, quickly if it may be, and water the plant of grace with the

-dew of His Holy Spirit.

-

-We were rather late before we thought of retiring, and I was not sorry

-at length when it was proposed, for without chair or seat, except a

-native tree, there was no great pleasure in sitting.

-

-

-_Wednesday, August 11th._--Spent a very uncomfortable night at Tasmate.

-The kind people had done all they could to make me comfortable, but I

-found the bed very hard, the sleeping quarters very rough, the fleas in

-large numbers, and the mosquitos very lively. However, I have been more

-uncomfortable, and I was not unthankful to be brought safely to the

-beginning of another day. A place was named to me last evening called

-“Beitabu,” as being a most choice spot for a bathe, and it was said to

-be near at hand. Having not many toilet requisites with me, I proposed

-to one “Lulu” a denizen of the place to pilot me there. I was very

-“breakfasty” and most unrefreshed, but away we started for “Beitabu.” It

-was a fearful grind to get there, and the distance seemed to me

-interminable. Of course being well watered there were irrigated taro

-beds, and I slipped off a bank clean into the mud. Yet when the spot was

-reached it made up for all difficulties and distresses and proved to be

-a most marvellous natural bath, a large, clear, deep pool, with water

-pouring in from a charming little waterfall, and flowing out rapidly

-over the rocks below. I do not know when I have enjoyed a bath more, or

-when water had a more invigorating and refreshing effect on me.

-Fortunately my host had what breakfast there was ready for me when I got

-back, and in my state of exhaustion it did not much matter what it was.

-After breakfast we had Morning Prayer with a short address from me

-instead of school. Not long after “sail oh!” was cried and my boat

-appeared to bring me back here to Tanrig, and heartily glad am I to be

-back here again in comparative comfort. We had a pleasant but rather

-heavy row up the coast, our party on board numbering twenty-eight.

-Fortunately the sea was very smooth, and not much wind, or probably we

-should not have fared so well. All my Tasmouri friends came on with me

-and are spending the night. All were well here and the place looked much

-as usual. One little baby had died unbaptized during my absence, a

-matter of great regret to everybody, and very much so to me. I had known

-of the child’s illness, and it was better before I left. I had

-therefore postponed its Baptism until I could make it convenient to

-Baptize three or four more infants now waiting for the Rite.

-

-

-_Thursday, August 12th._--General holiday. Arthur took occasion to “nasu

-ima” at the same time with me, and the great event of two house warmings

-drew together a large concourse of people. Fire was lit in my house, and

-part of a pig and two fowls were cooked in the oven. It is the custom

-here to have as many kinds of flesh as possible on these occasions, and

-as many kinds of vegetables, representing I suppose all the different

-sorts of food that will hereafter be cooked therein. There has been

-great preparation for this day, and great excitement to-day. Every

-household added its mite to the feast, and in the evening when the feast

-was spread out there was a grand display. Everyone had huge pieces of

-yam and taro and banana cake, and a large piece of fish, fowl and pork.

-The pork takes precedence, but the fish costs the greatest pains in

-provision, not being so easily within their reach or means of

-acquisition. Fish in these countries do not seem to take hook and bait

-readily, and the poor natives have to resort to all manner of odd

-expedients to secure them. There were many strangers here, and quite 150

-people or more must have partaken. The pork was very nice and most

-beautifully cooked in the native oven. The females presided over the

-cutting up, but Arthur as co-host with myself gave directions as master

-of the feast. He gave a sigh of relief when he came into my house after

-it was all over, and said “there, what a poor return for so much

-labour.” That always strikes me as the most pitiable thing about a

-feast, it is all over in the twinkling of an eye, and what have you for

-your pains?

-

-This evening there is a great dance, a vast crowd of people has already

-congregated, and it is to go on till morning light. It is done as a

-special compliment to myself, and I do not like to stop them. The

-patient endurance of some of the dancers is wonderful. From the start to

-the finish, say from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m., they never leave the ranks of the

-dance but keep at it all the time, singing, clapping the hands and

-dancing. There is no rest for a good supper at midnight, but the dance

-is carried right through to the bitter end. I am going to attempt sleep,

-but I fear the noise will prove too much for me. They have certainly a

-most beautiful night for their dance, but I should be sorry to be one of

-the performers. The songs are certainly very pretty, and they show

-wonderful power of memory to keep up the succession all through the

-night, without a book of words or musical score.

-

-I can imagine too, as the enthusiasm of the dance increases, that there

-must be a sort of fascination about the performance.

-

-

-_Friday, August 13th._--The dance was kept up till daylight, and I got

-little or no sleep before that. When I did get to sleep, I slept so

-soundly that it was late on in the morning before I awoke, and then I

-was driven to it. Arthur Huqe appeared at my bedside and asked me if he

-should ring the bell for prayers, and I was obliged to consent. The

-whole day afterwards was somewhat of a blank to me, and I went no

-whither and did little till evening. The duties of the day however, were

-carried on as usual.

-

-

-_Saturday, August 14th._--The usual holiday. We had Prayers very early,

-and before breakfast I took a picture of most of the congregation in

-front of the church, which I hope will turn out good. It was not a

-pleasant day indoors, there was a strong wind blowing, and clouds of

-dust penetrating my house from all quarters, and I was not sorry to

-accept Arthur’s offer to go with himself and most of the people to the

-riverside. There it is always cool and pleasant, and the luxury of a

-bathe, although almost a daily occurence, is always appreciated. I took

-my photographic Camera with me, and after almost burying myself in mud,

-succeeded in getting a good view of the pretty taro gardens. On our way

-to Rarava the monotony of the road was relieved by our starting a

-“malau,” the ornithological name of which I know not, but it is a kind

-of bush turkey, it has a red head, yellow legs and black feathers, and

-is really like a common hen in shape and appearance. The poor thing was

-evidently startled from her peculiar nest, where she was about to

-deposit her eggs. These strange birds after securing a favourable spot,

-lay their eggs some depth beneath the upper soil, and leave them there

-uncared for until the young ones hatch themselves, and when strong

-enough burst their earthly tenement, and come forth to the light of day.

-Some say the parent comes occasionally back to her nest to see how

-matters are progressing, and even digs at the earth to find out how the

-process of hatching goes on. If she finds her progeny ready to walk, she

-drives them on before her to a place of security, but the general belief

-is that she allows them to shift for themselves. These curious birds are

-said to feed principally on the large ants here called “gandee.”

-

-In Savo and some of the Solomon Islands, these birds are tamed and

-fenced in, to lay their eggs in the hot sand, but here they are wild and

-rare. Their eggs which are very numerous are esteemed a great delicacy.

-This poor bird in question tried very hard to get away by flight, but

-getting entangled in the thick bush, was shot by a cruel arrow. The

-capture was the food for conversation throughout the day, and I listened

-to the relation and re-relation of the narrative of it times without

-number, with all the little details with which natives are wont to

-embellish and amplify their narration of the smallest fact. It is

-perfectly wonderful how the smallest matter affords pasture for native

-conversation, and what a wonderful faculty they have of making multum

-out of parvum. In powers of conversation and flow of language, I think

-natives are far before our European working classes. A native never

-seems at a loss for something to say, and certainly never fails to

-express himself from lack of words.

-

-I have frequently heard an European confess that he had a great deal to

-say, but he could not express himself for want of words. The fluency of

-speech, and powers of conversation are not confined here to the weaker

-sex, and I think the men have quite as long tongues as the women,

-although I do not think they chatter so much or make such a clatter.

-Some of the men are great wits, and make fun for the multitude, but I do

-not think this applies to the women. The Maewo folks are great

-“laughers,” and go off into fits of cacchination at the smallest joke.

-They are a most simple, good-natured race certainly, and it is hard to

-conceive of their being such depraved savages, so gentle are they in

-their ways.

-

-After school with the teachers in the evening, during which we discussed

-our Sunday programme, we had Evensong, and afterwards a long singing

-practice. Miss Mount’s generous gift is a most welcome addition to our

-singing, and Arthur Huqe begins to play the harmonium very nicely at the

-services. Our singing is very fair on the whole, but there is room for

-improvement, and we have the ability if I could get the girls to use

-their very nice voices. In the old familiar hymns and chants they sing

-out lustily, but when we attempt anything new, they shut up altogether,

-without making a trial to join in.

-

-

-_Sunday, August 15th._--There are two very homely sounds which break the

-stillness of the early morning here, and the first is the cock which

-seems to have a peculiar faculty for crowing in these latitudes, he

-starts his chant before commerce is awake and he keeps religiously at it

-all day long. Here at Maewo, too, these birds are in prodigal abundance,

-their flesh is esteemed very delicate food, and is kept for great and

-exalted occasions. Here the male takes precedence of the female even in

-the matter of dumb animals, and sows and hens are looked upon as only

-fit food for women. The crow of the first cock is a signal for a general

-chorus, and then the natives begin to stir. As soon as they appear on

-the threshold of their doors another chorus takes up the morning song,

-and the pigs begin their squealing. Whether it is that one looks for

-more peace on Sunday morning, or whether one perchance is a trifle more

-inclined to take a little more sleep or a little more slumber, whatever

-the actual cause may be, I always notice that on Sundays there is always

-a greater noise from the domestic animals than on ordinary days. The

-pigs here are hand fed, and will not be denied, they squeal to their

-hearts’ content until they have their morning meal, and being in

-considerable numbers the noise is not sleep producing. In old days these

-animals were kept for their heathen feasts, but as of late these have

-fallen into disuse, so the pigs have increased until they have become

-one of the features of the place. At a Baptism or any great Church

-Festival such as Christmas, Easter, Pentecost, one or more male animals

-have to die, and although the possession of a flock is as much valued as

-an Englishman’s stud, no one ever grumbles to kill his animal when his

-turn comes round.

-

-Being very hot this morning, and there being a prospect of the

-repetition of the Egyptian plague of flies, who always add to the

-discomfort of a congregation, we had school very early. Our numbers were

-slightly augmented by outsiders, but not quite to my satisfaction. After

-a hasty breakfast I started for Uta. This is a good long distance from

-here, and I was in a state of dripping perspiration when I arrived

-there. I found everyone keeping a Sabbath, but very few appreciating the

-idea of a Christian Sunday.

-

-However, I had quite a large congregation in the neat little school but

-the ladies preponderated in point of numbers. We had quite a nice hearty

-little service, and they listened patiently to an address from myself. I

-wish from my heart I had a good teacher to place here, for I know he

-would be the means of doing much good work to God’s glory. The present

-teacher is a very good, conscientious fellow, but his own knowledge is

-not much above that of his own countrymen, and they grow weary of

-hearing continually the same thing. I was quite pleased with my visit,

-and amply rewarded for any discomfort I experienced in the journey. I do

-not expect that any immediate result will issue from such spasmodic

-efforts, but there is no knowing the power of grace, and God’s ways are

-not as our ways. Often it is that the last becomes first, and the first

-last. At all events I keep the door open, and I hope before long someone

-else may be raised up to settle among them as a permanent teacher. After

-resting awhile I took my homeward journey, escorted according to custom

-by the denizens of the village beyond their own boundary. I returned by

-way of “Na Ruru,” where “Anthony” one of our Norfolk Island trained boys

-has a school. He seems to be doing fairly well there, and has a nice

-school. After sitting with him for some time, the shades of evening

-began to close in, and I to feel somewhat famished, having had but

-little since morning. Bidding him goodbye I started for Tanrig, where I

-arrived in due course. After dinner I baptized three children, Maida,

-Victoria and Matthew respectively. The Font was very prettily arranged

-and decorated by Arthur Huqe, and the service generally, very nice.

-Later on we had Evensong, quite a refreshing and stirring service, at

-which I preached, and never before do I remember to have secured more

-attention. These children I Baptized this evening make up the number of

-Christians here to 100, under God, the fruits of my own, and my

-teacher’s work, and I feel that by the orderly and consistent lives of

-most of them, I can thank God and take courage.

-

-I took as the basis of my remarks, our Lord’s last command to His

-Disciples, and I urged those who had already been admitted into the

-fellowship of Christ’s religion, to eschew all those things which were

-contrary to their profession, and to follow all such things as were

-agreeable to the same, and those still without the pale to lose no time

-in applying for that rite, the absence of which our Lord declared must

-be condemnation. Those words have a strong sound here for Missionary and

-heathen--“He that believeth and is Baptized shall be saved, but he that

-believeth not shall be dammed.” One realizes here their full weight, and

-solemnity, and power. Quite three parts of the congregation have dropped

-in to wish me good night, and by the hushed stillness over the place I

-can tell that God’s Word has not fallen to the ground. God grant that it

-may minister grace to hearer and preacher.

-

-

-_Monday, August 16th._--The night was made perfectly hideous by the

-howling of the fiendish curs which are dignified with the name of dogs,

-the squealing of hungry swine, and the cackling of a poor forlorn goose

-whose kith and kin have left her a solitary representative of her

-species, and who seems to find her only solace in sitting outside my

-door and calling to her lost companions. The dogs are simply a pest to

-the place, they keep up their incessant bark all the day long, and all

-night they howl and prowl around. They are hideously ugly, undersized

-creatures, and are the more loathsome because they are the acknowledged

-scavengers of the place. They are not worthy to be called dogs, and any

-one except he was assured of the fact, would scarcely believe that they

-were dogs. They are supposed to be useful in catching wild pigs, but

-from their appearance you would fancy that it must be a poor specimen of

-a pig they would dare to tackle. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and

-all these sounds rending the still night air simultaneously drove sleep

-from my eyes, and produced such inward irritation and disgust that if a

-thought could have killed the lot, none of them would have troubled the

-world again with their noises. A most glorious morning enticed me up

-very early, and certainly the early dawn was very fresh and beautiful.

-We had Prayers very soon after daylight and even then the blue bottles

-had collected in great numbers and were by no means a help to devotion.

-These pests spring into existence at once as soon as any number of human

-bodies are congregated together, and are particularly active in church

-and school. The idea of them apart from their propensities is very nasty

-and disgusting, and when in a country like this without the concomitants

-of devotion, one wants all the solemnity one can possibly obtain, their

-presence and irritation are the more odious and nauseating.

-

-To-day, according to custom, we kept the Christening Feast of the

-children who were Baptized last night. The parents of the children gave

-a most beautiful pig, and the women attended to the cooking, the men

-dispersing in many directions each in quest of his own business or

-pleasure. I went with a party to Ruosi where we bathed, and got back in

-time for the opening of the ovens, and the division of the feast. I said

-grace and then each one partook of his or her share of the plentiful

-repast, all eating together in the most harmonious fashion, and not as

-in old days the sexes keeping religiously apart. This middle wall of

-separation has been almost entirely broken down, and family life and

-sociability have taken the place of the old seclusion and division. It

-was a most glorious night but the people were too tired to dance, and we

-all retired early to our houses. I kept busy till very late writing up

-arrears of correspondence and reading, and was the last in the village

-out of bed.

-

-

-_Tuesday, August 17th._--The most glorious day from earliest morning

-till now at night, the evening one of the most beautiful I ever saw,

-when the moon rose it was a most perfect night above and below, the sky

-studded with myriads of stars and absolutely cloudless, here everything

-hushed in peaceful slumber, except the restless, ever-singing crickets,

-whose buzz is continuously kept up by night and day. At the heathen end

-of the village there was a sort of Irish wake kept up to-day, but there

-was no “tangi” or any ceremony except a pig being killed, and a great

-feast being prepared. Formerly, death days were kept with great

-strictness, and the day of death and the 100th were observed with great

-festivities. I have seen nothing of the kind now for years, and I

-fancied the custom had quite died out. It was supposed in old days when

-the people were still heathen, that the disembodied spirit, after it

-left its earthly tenement, hung about hungry and restless on the thick

-creepers in the bush, and on the day of death a great feast was prepared

-for it, after which it retired to the place of departed spirits called

-Banoi. This same Banoi is near Tasmouri, but I have never seen it. The

-idea, I believe, is that when the spirit is at length at rest, its stone

-is placed in a certain cave or pit there exists there, and the people

-who have seen the place, tell me that certainly there far inland are

-smooth seaside stones laid in wonderful regularity, and in old days

-supposed to be put there by successive spirits in order as they died.

-Until quite recently, no one ventured into this ghostly place, and it

-was regarded as eminently sacred. Some day I hope to go there and

-examine it for myself.

-

-I cannot find out the rationale of the subsequent death days, but they

-seem to have more to do with the living than the dead, and are supposed

-to show the departed one that he or she is still kept in faithful and

-affectionate memory.

-

-In old days everyone was careful to have one good pig at least, in

-readiness for the day of his death, and any others which he might

-possess at the time of his departure, his friends were careful to kill

-in his honour.

-

-They carefully kept the days, principally the tens, I think, and

-religiously observed the 100th, after which remembrance seemed no longer

-necessary, but before that, I am afraid, there was a large amount of

-selfishness about the death days, and more was thought of the living in

-them than of the dead. The people tell me how strictly these days were

-kept formerly, they dispensed with their regular ordinary food sometimes

-for the whole 100 days, and ate only such roots and fruits as grow wild

-in the bush, religiously abstaining from all garden produce until the

-full time had expired. Some went even beyond this when a very particular

-person died, and for the whole 100 days ate only one kind of root, and

-that the most difficult to obtain, strenuously refusing to partake of

-food in common with others. I have known a man myself adhere to this

-rigid, self-imposed abstention, in the case of the death of a son, and

-of a wife, not here however, but at Opa. A man once came into my house

-over there, tired and hungry after a long fast and a laborious journey,

-but he strictly refused a biscuit or other food which I ventured to

-offer him, and when or where he ate I do not know, for the particular

-food he had chosen to eat was most rare in the neighbourhood, I doubt

-even if it was obtainable at all. Yet no privation or distress would

-force him to break his rule, and eat promiscuously until the proper time

-had elapsed. In the keeping of their days they are wonderfully accurate,

-and you seldom find them wrong in their calculations. Their fingers are

-their ready reckoners, and they have to do a great deal more work than

-ours in assisting a weak memory, where the use of slate and pencil are

-unknown. I very often ask people to count over the names of persons in

-the place or neighbourhood, just to see how clever and correct they are

-with their numbers. Here the whole ten fingers are used, at Opa only the

-left hand, five fingers down being five, the first finger up and the

-rest down six, and so on until all are up which makes ten, then two

-tens, three tens, up to ten tens or one hundred. In the distribution of

-food, too, it is wonderful how accurate they are, and it is very rarely

-that any one is left out of the count. Of course, where the science of

-numbers is unknown, nature teaches by a more roundabout, but scarcely

-less accurate process. For all practical purposes and uses, their

-fingers help them a great deal, indeed almost as far as their

-requirements go, for their lives are very simple and their ways

-uncomplicated. The leaves of a certain palm, however, lends them some

-assistance, especially in the distribution of food, and as the person is

-seen, or his name thought of, a leaf is broken off, and then the broken

-leaves are counted. I have never heard of the toes being used as

-assistants, although one might fancy their being of service.

-

-

-_Wednesday, August 18th._--About midnight as I lay reading in bed, and a

-perfect stillness reigned around, we experienced a very sharp shock of

-an earthquake. My house shook so uncomfortably, that I really feared it

-was coming down, and I had the sort of feeling as of some one trying to

-upset it, and I felt as if I must say “Oh! do not, please leave off, you

-will have it down.” My neighbour’s fence was shaken so, that I fancied

-some considerable damage had been done. The vibration lasted a good long

-time, some seconds I should say, after the real shock was over, and I

-felt myself, a sort of palpitation for some considerable period. I was

-not afraid, but no one can feel an earthquake without some instinctive

-dread. Nothing, I think, makes one feel one’s littleness and

-helplessness and insecurity more, and there is such a solemnity attached

-to it, that you are very thankful when it is fairly over. Man, bird and

-beast were roused into action at once, and there was quite an excitement

-here for a time. Curiously enough, in the evening there was a very

-bright and exceedingly beautiful after-glow, and I remarked to the boys

-how like it was to the time when the terrible destruction was caused in

-the gulf of Sunda, and I said casually, that I should not be surprised

-if we had more earthquakes soon. The natives have a firm idea that they

-are the precursors of rain, and certainly this morning we have had a

-very heavy downpour. This is the first rain we have had for the whole

-month I have been here, and the first day I have been kept to solitary

-confinement. Most of the day I have been absolutely alone, and my pen

-has been kept very busy writing letters and hymns and songs. With the

-latter I have been very successful, and have managed four. One,

-particularly successful, goes to the chorus of “Wait till the clouds

-roll by,” and is as follows:--

-

-    Ge togatoga ririkqa.

-    Mati ni van ra[¨n]ai,

-    A la[¨n]i ni rowo na wia,

-    Tavi dago na tasgoro.

-

-    Gana sako na usu maraga,

-    Gana toura na gabe tar,

-    Gana tura goro na masi

-    Gana koko betegag.

-

-    Gana unui vagamatera

-    A le[¨n]ele[¨n]e mas

-    Gana tuwur, sogon le gete

-    Toli tasgoro rik ka sem.

-

-of which the translation is:--

-

-    Wait a little bit longer,

-    Wait till the tide is low,

-    Wait till the wind blow fairer,

-    And then make the tasgoro.

-

-    Then we will take bow and arrow,

-    Then we will carry our nets,

-    Then we will stop in the fishes

-    And gather them properly up.

-

-    We will kill them dead with poison,

-    All and every kind of fish,

-    We will gather and lay them in baskets,

-    What a glorious tasgoro!

-

-The _tasgoro_ I have before described. Part of beach enclosed, tabu’d,

-and after lapse of time opened again to the public.

-

-This evening we have sung this chorus with grand effect, and high as I

-was previously in popular estimation as a poet, I have gone still higher

-now. What a little thing wins popularity, how little is a thing so

-easily purchased worth the having! One other song goes very prettily and

-smoothly to “Home sweet Home,” and is much appreciated. It is, as far as

-I could adapt it, the reproduction of the English song into Maewo.

-“Dream Faces” supplied me with another very pretty little song, which

-runs very well, the theme of which is the “moonlight.” “Our Jack’s come

-home to-night,” lent me the music of a fourth song, which is peculiarly

-native in expression, and slightly more comic than the two above

-mentioned.

-

-The production of this last was received with such peals of laughter,

-that for a time confusion and merriment took the place of composure and

-perfect gravity. It would lose its charm and half its meaning if I were

-to attempt to translate it into English. Here, however, is the Maewo:--

-

-  Ta disava qarik             Isei ni tau na as?

-  Eh? Ro[¨n]o lolora va!      Ki isei qa ni sawu?

-  Wa sagoro ta sagoro         Ki gida, sem, ta lai ra[¨n]ai!

-      Ro[¨n]o lolora va!          Toli sagoro rik!

-

-  Da! ta sagoro da!           Ge riri betigag!

-  Ta sagoro tei rik           Ga laia ra[¨n]ai sag!

-  Kare mawmaw, tei riki vak!  Ge wosawosa limamu!

-      A wula marama!          Tolina rik ka sem!

-

-The “Dream Faces” song is as follows:-

-

- Nan ligo asik suri marama,    --I’ll make my song about the moonlight,

- Tolina rik sem a wula marama, --Charming indeed is the light of the moon,

-

- Osoos ti rasu mera na maran,  --Darkness has flown, it is light as the day,

- Non eteete ti lita soun na    --His brightness chased the night far away.

-       qo[¨n].

-

- Nan ligo asik suri marama,    --I’ll make my song about the moonlight,

- A[¨n]eisa tea le isi Tamada,  --Some day I ween in our great Father’s land,

-

- Ala na maran vagatewa tau,    --There day unending for ever will be,

- Qon tigai ala, moa marama,    --Night is unknown there, light only endless.

-

-The light called “marama,” is looked upon by natives as the perfection

-of light, because it is, I suppose, unaccompanied by the burning heat of

-the sun. I therefore use it as illustrating better the idea of heaven’s

-light. Maran is the light of day.

-

-

-_Thursday, August 19th._--The village was hushed in the stillness of

-slumber again about midnight, and I was preparing for bed, too, and

-kneeling down to say my prayers, when another quite sharp earthquake

-shock was felt, and the sensation came upon me very solemnly and

-impressively while so engaged. I cannot say why I trembled, but I did,

-and it was quite instinctive. However, I went to bed and slept

-profoundly. We have had another slight shock of domestic earthquake here

-this morning, and Ann, one of our young married women, after rating her

-husband, started off for Naruru, and we were quite in a ferment here for

-a short time. However, this evening, her parents went for her, and I

-have had to give her a scolding. I told her that anger was like a charge

-of dynamite, it not only exploded itself, but it produced destructive

-effects far and wide, indeed there was no knowing what the extent of its

-mischief might be. She seemed penitent, and was utterly ashamed of her

-unchristian conduct. I am thankful to say that scenes of domestic

-warfare are uncommon here, and, generally speaking, a great deal of

-harmony prevails, but of course there are clouds in the most perfect

-day, and the smoothest ocean is at times ruffled by the sudden breeze.

-Beyond this, our day has been like most other days, except for the

-thatching of Peter’s “gamal,” which has brought together a large

-concourse of people, and has been the occasion of a great festivity this

-evening. Arthur, Patrick and myself walked down to Ruosi in the

-afternoon, where we bathed, and returned in the evening. Our evening

-duties as usual.

-

-

-_Friday, August 20th._--Certainly we are blessed with the most glorious

-weather. This morning was simply perfect, and one almost wishes one

-could keep some of its coolness for the middle of the day, when the heat

-is very great.

-

-After school and breakfast this morning, some of the people invited me

-to go with them eel catching. As the performance was new to me, I gladly

-assented. The scene of the sport lay in the direction of the water fall,

-and I took my camera, hoping to get a good view of it.

-

-We followed the course of the stream, and waded through the taro

-gardens, and finally found ourselves in the most advantageous position

-for a photograph. It ought to be good, after all my efforts to secure

-the picture, but I could not get far enough away. While I have been

-writing this, since I began the last sentence, an earthquake shock has

-shaken the place very perceptibly, and, why I know not, has left a

-tremour all over me, which I cannot explain. The picture being shot

-off, I hastened back to where the eel catching was going on. The water

-was cleverly dammed off above two large pools, and then one pool

-“teemed” out with buckets. In the first pool nothing was discovered, and

-the next proceeding was to empty the full pool into the now empty one.

-This took some time, but it was finally accomplished, and one large eel

-was captured, the sole occupant of the pool, and the only sport afforded

-after a long day’s work. Disappointment was depicted on all

-countenances, and I was rather disgusted too, having expected to see

-some sport. I comforted myself with a most glorious bathe in the broad

-flowing river, and hastened home to drown my disappointment in a cup of

-tea.

-

-After school this evening, I was sitting here alone, when four men came

-in, in whispers, and shut the door behind them, and when they had sat

-down, they said, still in the lowest accents, “we wish to see your

-Eucharistic vessels.” I proceeded to exhibit them, and they seemed quite

-awe struck. Miss Patteson would have been pleased to have seen how her

-noble gift was valued and appreciated. The exhibition of the beautiful

-vessels gave me much food for conversation with these men, and I told

-them I hoped the day was not far distant when they would be regularly

-used in the Church here, and they themselves be partakers from them of

-the Blessed Tokens of Redeeming Love, the bread of the world in mercy

-broken, the wine of the soul in mercy shed.

-

-

-_Saturday, August 21st._--General holiday as usual. Nothing of

-particular importance marked the day, except the visit of three nice

-fellows from Uta. The British Workman’s Almanac adorns my walls, and

-they were particularly struck with the picture of Lord Shaftesbury which

-occupies the centre. Curiously, many others have admired this same

-picture, why I do not know, except perhaps from its size. I told these

-visitors all about the late Earl, of his philantrophy and the goodness

-of his life, and I told them too, of the philantrophy and goodness of a

-greater than he, “who went about doing, and healing all manner of

-diseases and sicknesses among the people.” They asked me if I had heard

-the earthquake of late, to which I responded in the affirmative, and

-told them of the terrible outburst of volcanic power at Tarawera, and

-the fearful and alarming results, and I said there was no knowing but it

-might be our turn next, and we ought to try and be prepared for whatever

-lay before us. I urged them to fly, while they had the opportunity, to

-the Higher Rock, for there we should find shelter and protection until

-the tyranny were overpast, and any such visitation would be but to bring

-us the quicker to a haven of rest and safety, whither such things never

-come. They asked me if I could not spare some regular teacher to come

-and live with them, to teach them the wonderful things of God’s law, and

-expound more fully to them, the things concerning the Kingdom of God. I

-promised them a weekly service, but I could do no more just yet.

-

-

-_Sunday, August 22nd._--A most glorious Sabbath morning. We had school

-before breakfast, both because it was cooler and also on account of the

-blue bottle flies, which become very troublesome in the heat of the day,

-where people are congregated together. Before our school duties were

-over, they became very numerous, and I was not sorry to get back to the

-refuge and quiet of my own house. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer,

-a very nice service, but not rendered more solemn by the presence, in

-crowds, of those disgusting pests, the flies. However, they are an

-inevitable worry, from which there seems no chance of escape. After

-Prayers I went to the Unduna villages, and talked to the few people I

-found there. They were keeping Sunday, they said, i.e. they were doing

-no work and were generally idling. I asked why they did not come to

-Church as formerly, and they said it was too far. I asked why then did

-not they build a school there, and I would be responsible for the

-teaching in it. They so far assented as to say that they would see about

-it, when they had got through with their yam planting. There is a nice

-little population there, and I have always had it on my conscience that

-nothing practical or definite had been done for them. Natives do not

-care to go to the trouble of a few yards more or less for religion, so I

-suppose the alternative is that religion must go to them. One very nice

-man called “Vangoro,” was most energetic about the building, in

-promising to get it done and helping all he could, he is a leading man

-there too, and I hope my desire will be accomplished.

-

-It was very hot coming back, and I was in a liquid state when I got

-home. The evening was deliriously cool and fine, and I enjoyed it

-outside my house with several of the people.

-

-Evensong was a very nice quiet service, and I preached on the subject of

-the Collect (9th Sunday after Trinity), the “spirit to think and do

-always such things as were rightful.” I hope I got intelligent

-attention. We had some nice singing afterwards, and the people went very

-quietly home.

-

-

-_Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday._--Blank days.

-

-On Monday there were great festivities here, and a dance till morning. I

-began to feel ill in the evening, and spent a most wretched night. On

-Tuesday I was unwell all day, and could do nothing. On Wednesday I was

-fearfully ill all day with a severe attack of fever and ague, and lay

-down under all the wraps I could secure, until the hot fit came on with

-a very severe headache. In the evening the boys surprised me by saying

-there was a white man outside, and I was glad to welcome Mr. Blackburne,

-Government agent of the Sybil, from Queensland. The vessel anchored at

-the watering place, and the boys told him “Missionary he plenty sick.”

-He therefore very kindly came up and spent the night with me. He has

-just left me now, and I have not strength to go with him to the ship.

-However, I am better to-day, and hope after a big dose of Quinine he has

-given me, that I shall be better.

-

-

-_Tuesday, August 31st._--I have wasted a whole week, and only to-day

-feel equal to doing anything or going anywhere. To-day for the first

-time for a week, I have moved out of the village boundaries, and have

-been to the river with the boys and bathed.

-

-It has been a sickly time here all together, and many besides myself

-have been laid by. It is bearably pleasant to be pent up day by day

-within doors when feeling well, but almost unbearably so when one feels

-ill and out of sorts. However, I trust it is all over now, please God,

-and I must endeavour to make up for lost time. Several of the people,

-Arthur included, have been quite ill through eating a certain eel,

-caught somewhere in the sea and very poisonous. They all detected the

-burning, stinging sensation on their lips, tongue and palate as soon as

-they had eaten it, but fancied it was the taro. From that time till the

-end of the week, they have been all laid up, and one or two have been

-very bad indeed. They have experienced not only burning, sharp pains

-internally, and pricking, poignant stabbing pains in the palms of the

-hands and soles of the feet, but have suffered a great deal also from

-strong and utter prostration with an abhorrent distaste for food.

-Several others were warned betimes from partaking, or the poisoning

-might have been more general. This particular eel was caught by a

-heathen on a Sunday, and therefore its peculiarly deleterious and

-poisonous qualities have been traced by the more virtuous to that fact,

-of which no cognizance was taken before it was cooked and eaten, nor

-would have been afterwards, but for its effects. The really admitted

-fact, however, I believe, is that certain fish caught at certain parts

-of the beach at particular seasons of the year, have all a more or less

-poisonous effect on those who eat them. The people themselves say it is

-the feed they find there which makes them poisonous, but it may be

-inherent in the nature of the particular fish. I remember on many

-occasions on board the _Southern Cross_, the natives looking askance at

-some very tempting looking fish which had been caught, and pronouncing

-them dangerous to eat. On one very memorable occasion, when dinner was

-over, one of the senior boys being cook, and one of the most poisonous

-of fish having been served and partaken of by all, this youth without a

-change of feature saying to some remark that was passed, “Oh! Yes, we

-die in our country if we eat that fish.” This was reassuring after what

-had passed, and we eyed one another with wistful and anxious faces,

-thinking whether or not perchance our end may have been hastened by our

-wilful inadvertence in thus partaking of deadly poison. But we neither

-swelled, nor fell down dead, and felt no ill effects. Many a time, too,

-since, I have eaten the same fish with the like happy and successful

-result. This particular kind of eel, however, has played the same _post

-mortem_ tricks before, and taken his revenge for wrongs received before

-going into the oven. The people tell me that those who have eaten, have

-become like mummies, their hair and skin have changed to a ghastly

-leaden hue, and have fallen off like a snake’s skin. How far this is

-true or fable, I know not, but it may be partially credible. Nothing of

-the sort has happened fortunately, at this present crisis, and the

-sufferers are about again.

-

-A dull, dark evening ushered in a blustery, rough night, and the coughs

-and sneezings and other demonstrative sounds peculiar to people who do

-not carry pocket handkerchiefs, bore testimony to the fact of an

-epidemic catarrh, contracted during a very inclement week. Like the

-Norfolk Islanders, they look for the source of such things in the world

-without, and accuse my friend Mr. Blackburne of having brought it here,

-all the way from Queensland. In what part of his luggage he secreted so

-desirable a communication I know not, but they are decidedly of opinion

-that he it was who ‘gave them’ the cold, and they were unwise enough to

-‘catch it’ from him. He ‘had’ the cold, they said, when he came here,

-and certainly said I, I believe he took it away again. However, as colds

-are catching, I suppose they must be left content with their belief, and

-to ‘bless him,’ I hope, every time they sneeze.

-

-

-_Wednesday, September 1st._--Another full month past and gone, and

-leaving I fear, but a poor memory of much good done behind it. The days

-here certainly fly past one after another in rapid flight, and the very

-monotony of existence speeds their departure. One day is so like another

-that it passes unmarkedly by, and one finds oneself, all at once, at the

-end of the week, and is brought to final consciousness of the rapid

-rotation of time’s wheels at the end of the month. What has been done in

-the month? I fear there is but a poor record. God grant that I myself

-may have, by His Grace, made one step forward, and have been

-instrumental in leading others also onward to a higher and better life,

-and to that final epoch where the flight of time is unmarked by days and

-weeks and months and years, for time itself will be swallowed up in

-eternity.

-

-Nothing much happened to-day. A bright morning seemed likely to usher in

-a fine and brilliant day, but in the forenoon the rain pelted down, and

-for some hours we had a glorious downpour. The “blue bottles” gave

-indication of this at Prayers and morning school, and I have never known

-them in such numbers or so troublesome. One perfectly loathed oneself,

-but escape from them was impossible, they crowded my house, which is

-generally free from their incursions, and the poor people seemed quite

-distracted. This is the great yam planting season, and everyone was away

-after school busy at his garden. The heavy rain, however, drove them

-home, and some took refuge here with me. Natives are not great hands for

-introducing originality into their conversation, nor do they go much

-beyond the sight of their eyes, or the hearing of their ears for their

-subject matter. Any prominent object which attracts their attention is

-made the subject of remark. This is a specimen of the sort of

-conversation which goes on. I was writing when my friends came in, “Oh!

-you are writing!” “Yes, what else did you suppose I should be doing with

-pen, ink and paper?” “Oh! this is a curious tin, what is in it? Meat?”

-“You are the 101st person who has asked that self-same question, I

-answered the 100 before you with the monosyllabic negative, No, and I

-give you the same answer.” “What then is in it? Fish?” “No.” “Fruit?”

-“Yes, I hope you are satisfied.” “Oh! I see you have a “kove” (native

-flute) up there in the thatch, who gave it you?” “You yourself have

-asked that same question ten times before, and I have always given the

-same answer, ‘Arthur,’ next time perhaps you will know without asking.”

-“You have a bow and arrow there, where did you get them?” “Considering

-that every person in the village knows from whence they came, and has

-made them the subject of general conversation for weeks, I wonder you

-should be the only person ignorant of their origin, especially as you

-were here when I brought them from Tasmouri.” This is the style of thing

-which goes on, and except that one is glad to accede to any means for

-introducing conversation, one would soon weary of it. They themselves do

-not seem to mind going over and over again the same conversation, and

-wading through the same minutiæ of detail, and they expect one to be

-equally patient. The rain gave me a good opportunity of planting my new

-fence, and I planted, as a start, a number of oranges around my house.

-The evening was fine, and the moon already quite sizeable. We had the

-usual singing school after Prayers, with very good success. When the

-practice was over, I asked the older men to sing some of their own

-songs, and they readily complied. Old blind Daniel is the great leader,

-and knows all the songs. There are three parts to the native song, (1)

-the person who starts and sings the air as in a Gregorian tone, and then

-follows (2) a chorus, then (3) a single voice takes up the air again,

-and this is followed by the chorus. The first singer is said to “tau”

-the song, the second to “sawu,” and the chorus to “lai.” The songs are

-very pretty, and they kept them up with spirit for quite an hour. Some

-of the singers beat a weird kind of accompaniment with bamboos, and kept

-most excellent time. When the performance was over, it was time to

-retire, and soon quietness warned me that it was time for me, too, to be

-going to rest.

-

-

-_Thursday, September 2nd._--How the days seem to chase one another in

-ever too hasty flight! It seems no sooner morning than the night is here

-again. We tried the experiment to-day of having prayers even earlier

-than usual, to be rid of the noxious blue bottles, but only partially

-succeeded in anything like freedom from them. At the school subsequently

-they were more troublesome, I think, than ever, and it was not an easy

-matter to keep one’s own or one’s pupils’ attention, with these hideous

-creatures buzzing about. After Prayers and school one is fairly ready

-for breakfast, and by the time that is over the day has already worn on

-towards Noon.

-

-It is the commencement of planting time now, and the people are very

-busy day after day in their yam gardens preparing the soil. It is by no

-means easy work, and they certainly make a very good show by the end of

-the day.

-

-I always like to get out somewhere if I can every day, for I find my

-health is better for the constant out-door exercise. This morning the

-people were all going shrimping, and I accepted an invitation to go with

-them to a place called ‘Niewotu.’ I had never been there before, and I

-was charmed with the picturesque beauty of it. A clear, flowing river is

-utilized for the purpose of irrigation, and there one saw again the

-quaint little taro beds so deftly laid out, and the showy crotons and

-dracænas ornamenting the immediate view, while all round the bush was

-thickly matted with innumerable, and almost impenetrable creepers with

-masses of white and pink flowers. In the direct foreground one got a

-peep of the bright blue sea sparkling in the midday heat. A bathe, and

-green cocoanuts were very agreeable and most refreshing. The boon of

-abundance of water in these hot countries is inestimable, and this

-island is rich in its water supply. Araga again on the other hand is

-very badly off, and Opa not much better.

-

-Evening duties as usual, and some hymn singing afterwards.

-

-

-_Saturday, September 4th._--After Prayers and breakfast, the boys and I

-started for a long meditated journey up the coast. It was a most

-glorious day, but very hot, the sun scorching down with pitiless heat.

-We embarked at Kerepei, sixteen of us all told, and rowed away against

-the Trade wind which was blowing strong down the coast. We were a merry

-party, and the shore view was very beautiful as we coasted along. From

-the point of embarkation to Tanrowo, a distance of eight or ten miles,

-there is not a single “salt water” native, and it seems a great pity to

-see so much valuable land lying fallow, when it might be utilised for

-almost any purpose. As we rounded the Point between us and Tanrowo,

-called “Vaturowa,” we saw a vessel at anchor in the distance. The heat

-on the water was intense, and I felt myself being scorched about the

-face and hands. The natives, hatless and clotheless, did not seem to

-mind it, and their exuberant spirits were proof against almost any outer

-evil. We saw some people along the coast, and conversed with them at

-several places. Arriving at “Beitarara,” we saw a number of people we

-knew. We of course asked about the “schooner” at anchor, and they said

-they did not know what she was, as she had only just a short time before

-come to her anchorage. However, the boat painted red was coming towards

-us, and soon we were within speaking distance. I asked where she was

-from, and what was her errand. As they came close to us, I heard my name

-called, and found myself shaking hands with Captain Martin of the

-schooner “Idaho” from Noumea. I met him years ago when he was in charge

-of the “John S. Lane,” Captain McCleod owner, and he very kindly then

-towed me across from Opa to Pentecost Island. He seemed very glad to see

-me, and invited me on board. He now belongs to the “Nouvelles Hebrides”

-Company, and was recruiting labour for “Port Sandwich” in Mallicollo.

-The Company had bought land here at “Beitarara,” and he just dropped in

-to see the people. He was very kind and amiable, and I spent some time

-on board, and made some purchases.

-

-The boat then started for our destination, where we found many amiable,

-friendly people awaiting us, and although they had sold their land, they

-had very hazy notions as to how much had been purchased, or what was to

-be done with it. After spending some time with them, we gave them some

-presents, and then found it was time to be getting homeward. A strong

-favourable breeze took us rapidly to the Kerepei. Arriving at “Ruosi,”

-we found a large number of our people awaiting us, with a smoking hot

-supper they had cooked for us there. We arrived here tired and sunburnt

-just before dark. Evensong followed, and a singing practice for Sunday.

-

-

-_Sunday, September 5th._--School very early on account of the blue

-bottles. I took all the old men into the Church and talked to them

-there. They paid good attention, and I hope remembered something of what

-they were taught. I tried to explain how God declared His Almighty Power

-most chiefly in showing mercy and pity. There were times when He

-revealed Himself as a consuming fire, but that was in His attitude

-towards sin, but the whole being and essence of God was love. After

-breakfast I started with Patrick for “Mandurvat” by way of “Naruru.”

-Anthony had already had Morning Prayer, so I did not stay long there,

-but pushed on for my destination. It was very hot walking, and I was

-very liquid when I arrived at Mandurvat. Sunday travelling here is much

-more tiring than week-day work, for you are obliged to respect the day a

-little, as regards the clothing you wear. I had not a very large

-congregation, and when service was over I asked the reason. The people

-then told me that a certain man called “Ala” had “tabu’d” (_i.e._ made

-sacred) the school, and prevented the people of his village from

-attending service. I protested against this, and when I had said my say,

-the plucky young teacher “Tarione” at once went to the village, and

-broke the “tabu,” rendering himself liable to a fine of pigs or perhaps

-a knock on the head. “Ala” was not at home or I would have gone to see

-him. However, I believe Tarione did all I could do, and perhaps more. I

-was very much pleased with the way some of the scholars had been taught,

-and two females especially, took me quite by surprise. These people have

-no baptized teacher, and the efficiency of the school is entirely owing

-to the exertion and perseverance of two young men, Tarione

-aforementioned and “Livotari.” The latter requested Baptism for himself,

-wife and child, and Tarione has previously expressed the same wish. Now

-that the tabu is taken off, or at least broken, no doubt the scholars

-will increase, but it reflects great credit on these young fellows that

-they have built the school themselves, taught themselves to read, and do

-their best to teach their people. They are a most friendly, good-natured

-people, and act up to their limited light and knowledge. They have

-prayers and school every day, and this is very wonderful, when one

-considers the few advantages they have had. “Masa,” the leading man of

-the district, was present at the service, and was very enthusiastic in

-the after conversation. They gave us a sumptuous luncheon of various

-kinds of “loko,” and we started for Tanrig when the sun’s rays began

-somewhat to decline. At “Naruru” we stopped some time, and I addressed

-the people. Anthony afterwards came on with me to Tanrig. Here, in the

-evening, I preached on the subject of the Gospel, the Pharisee and the

-Publican, and tried to adduce some healthful lessons from the parable.

-We were somewhat inclined by nature to think more highly of ourselves

-than we ought to think, and not to be sober and humble in our self

-consideration. Because we attended service regularly, and were very

-accurate in our daily lives, we were apt to despise others around us,

-who were not so exact, and were still living heathen lives. When we came

-before God, our thought ought not to be of our own worthiness or

-goodness in His sight, still less of the depravity and wickedness of

-others, but our attitude and our language should be that of our own

-utter unworthiness and sinfulness, we should imitate the action and

-adopt the words of the Publican rather than that of the Pharisee, and

-smite our breasts and say, “God be merciful to me a sinner.” What we

-sought from all our services was to go down to our houses justified, and

-the only road to justification and righteousness was humility. That was

-the only road for white and black people alike, for teacher and taught,

-for Priest and people. How many of us would be justified that night? How

-many of us were growing day by day in grace, and in the knowledge of

-our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ?

-

-

-_Monday, September 6th._--Captain Martin had kindly offered to tow me

-and my boat’s crew across to Opa if I could manage to be ready. He would

-come down and anchor at Kerepei, and fire a gun as a signal for me. The

-gun went, but I was not ready, and after breakfast I went down to tell

-him so. Being a French ship they kept French hours, and I found a second

-breakfast awaiting me on board. Twelve people had recruited at Tanrowo,

-and all had been bought with snider rifles, and plenty of ammunition.

-French and English recruiting laws are very different. Vessels from

-Queensland and Fiji are not allowed to give guns or ammunition to the

-natives, but the French do just as they like. While I was on board,

-another silly female was recruited. In one of her humours she had run

-away from her husband, and had come a distance of twelve or fifteen

-miles, to be engaged for three years as the slave and tool of some

-depraved Frenchman on one of the island stations. I could say nothing,

-although I knew the result of the embarkation. However, the Captain

-promised me that he would call again at the place, and see the woman’s

-friends, and if they consented to her going, he would keep her and pay

-for her, but if not, she should be put on shore again. How far or how

-truly he will carry out his promise I do not know, but he is a tender

-hearted and, I think, an upright man in his dealings with the natives.

-As soon as I was ashore, he lifted his anchor and went up the coast, but

-I have not yet heard what he did. He was very kind to our boys, and gave

-them several tins of meat and biscuits. We made a fire at Ruosi, and

-there they cooked their dinner, while after a bathe I came home. In the

-evening it rained very hard, and just before the bell went for Prayers,

-our congregation was therefore not so large as usual, and our numbers

-thinner at school. I was very tired, and went early to bed.

-

-

-_Wednesday, September 7th._--Very heavy rain during the night succeeded

-this morning by a northerly wind, and a hot, close, oppressive day. I

-have not felt it so warm since I have been here, and I was glad that my

-duties kept me at home, and mostly in doors all the day. Nothing here

-seems possible to be done without a feast and a dance, and all work was

-postponed to-day to do my new fence the honour of having a supper

-prepared for it. Any excuse for eating and dancing. The women were kept

-busy at the ovens cooking, and the men away at the seaside endeavouring

-to get a meal of fish, seemingly the choicest compliment possible to be

-paid to the exterior decoration of my house. The fence making certainly

-was a most laborious business, and the result, if not strikingly

-beautiful, has the advantage of being strong and durable, and hitherto

-pig-proof.

-

-The men returned in the afternoon with about thirty nice fish, which

-were at once consigned to the oven, and in the evening the feast was

-spread here in front of my house, and the whole village assembled to

-partake. Grace was said, and the huge quantities of food distributed,

-and eaten with very evident relish. Postprandial grace having been said,

-the company dispersed, and soon all the festal remnants, too,

-disappeared. The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever seen,

-and I sat outside my house for a long time talking with the people. Many

-were prevented attending by reason of sickness, and our numbers at

-Prayers and school were not so full as usual. After school a dance was

-proposed, but did not come off. Instead thereof, a few of the men came

-and serenaded me, very quietly and softly, and much more in consonance

-with my feelings than the noisy songs and clappings of the dance. It was

-one of those nights in which it was a “shame to go to bed,” but tired

-nature seeks repose, and soon the village was sunk in silent slumber.

-

-

-_Wednesday, September 8th._--Another most glorious morning followed by a

-very hot and ennervating day. After our morning duties here, public and

-private, I went with some of the boys to Ruosi. It was very pleasant

-there by the water side, and one got a perfect freedom from the blue

-bottles, which invaded my house in such numbers, this morning, that I

-had to retire. The discomfort of these loathsome creatures is excessive,

-and one gets away from them as far as possible. Not having had a washing

-day for some days, I made one to-day, and myself turned washerwoman. The

-one idea of natives with respect to clothes washing, is to pile on the

-soap agony, and leave your garments as stiff as a board, and almost as

-uncomfortable to wear. I entrusted a pair of white flannel trowsers, and

-a white flannel coat to one of the boys to wash, but I tremble to think

-what the result will be. On our way homeward we were stopped by loud

-“cooes” from the rear rank, and Patrick came running forward to say

-“They are here.” Soon a white hat appeared, and I fancied at once it

-must be the “Southern Cross,” but wondered why she had come so quickly.

-

-However, I was soon undeceived, and was greeted by Mr. Coates,

-Government Agent of the “Lord of the Isles” from Fiji. He was

-photographing the Falls, and the boys brought him on here. He was very

-amiable, and followed me on to the village. He took three views of

-different parts of the place, and after staying a short time returned

-again to the ship as night was rapidly approaching. It is so seldom that

-a white man ventures up here, that the sight of one is a seven days’

-wonder. He came quite unarmed, and was evidently not frightened by the

-ferocity of our people. It is customary to look upon natives as

-naturally wild and ferocious, and few white men trust themselves among

-them without arms. However, of course we always go armed with a Power

-more protective than a Colt’s revolver, and we, I suppose, engender

-trust in the natives by trusting them.

-

-The “Lord of the Isles” is a large ship of 300 tons, and has brought

-over two hundred natives from Fiji as returned labour.

-

-Mr. Coates told me that the Conservative Government was in power with

-Lord R. Churchill as Premier, and that the English Government had sent

-an ultimatum to the French to withdraw their troops from the New

-Hebrides, or their action in sending them there would be looked upon as

-a breach of faith and an act of aggression. There will be troubles down

-here yet I fear, with all the shilly-shallying there is over the

-annexation of these islands. The French are evidently intending some

-forward step, for they have troops both in Havannah Harbour, and Port

-Sandwich (Mallicollo), and the Nouvelles-Hebrides Company are buying

-land right and left all over these islands. It would not be pleasant to

-find myself a prisoner in France instead of a free man in England, and I

-hope there may be no fear of such a criterion.

-

-Our evening duties as usual ended with singing.

-

-

-_Thursday, September 9th._--Another most glorious morning, and a bright

-warm day. My home duties kept me here till far on in the day, when I

-joined a large picnic party at Ruosi. Certainly these natives take life

-easily, and in their own way get a good deal of enjoyment out of it.

-They seem utterly devoid of that care and worry which kills so many of

-us, and certainly follow the Scripture injunction as to taking no

-anxious thought. Nature affords them all they want for their bodily

-comfort, and I trust religion supplies the rest. It is perfectly

-wonderful how far more merry and light hearted they are than their

-heathen neighbours, and I fondly hope the secret is within, such jolly,

-amiable, good-natured creatures they are, and so happy and friendly and

-harmonious among themselves. The sportsmen to the number of twelve or

-fifteen went off in search of wild fowl, or any other of the feathered

-tribe they might come across, the cooks setting to work to get the oven

-alight and start the cooking. Prawns were caught in abundance, and were

-eaten with roasted taro, as a sort of lunch, and green cocoanuts were

-secured as the refreshing beverage. It was an animated and picturesque

-scene, and in the evening the sportsmen returned with five fowls and one

-owl, an odd looking object, as the result of their day’s sport. These

-birds were soon consigned to the oven with the other food, and were

-partaken of in the evening. I came away beforehand and had my dinner

-here. It was a most gloriously still and beautiful evening and the

-native songs sung by the boys coming home, sounded very pretty in the

-distance. There seems to have been an exuberant joyous spirit about

-to-day, animating everyone, and never since I have been here, have I

-known so hearty and bright a service as we had this evening.

-

-After school most of the boys and younger men went to “Unduna,” a

-_suburb_ of Tanrig, to a great dance, which is to be kept up till

-morning light. The occasion of it is the ‘nasu’ing of two gamals

-to-morrow, and nothing can be done without a dance. Arthur, who has

-neither the strength nor the inclination to go, has been keeping me

-company, and we have had some nice and profitable conversation. He has

-left me now, and in the stillness of the most glorious night, the song

-of the dancers breaks upon one’s ear, and makes one conscious that one

-is in the Melanesian Islands. Besides that one sound, nothing else is

-audible, and I myself am going to prepare for the quiet and rest of my

-humble couch.

-

-

-_Saturday, September 11th._--Started this morning after breakfast for

-Tasmate by boat, and saw a vessel heading in for the watering place.

-This was the _Southern Cross_ from the islands, and before long she came

-to anchor and we were on board shaking hands. We were somewhat surprised

-to see the Bishop, but he was not well and was going for the change to

-Norfolk Island. None of the party on board looked very well, but they

-were going South and would soon feel the benefit of the colder weather.

-Mr. Turnbull came back with me and spent the night here. After service I

-held a consultation with the teachers as to Arthur’s going to Norfolk

-Island, and they were unanimous that he ought to go. A. P. Huqe offered

-to stay in his place. The vessel was much earlier than I expected her,

-but none too early. The news generally, very good.

-

-There were five earthquake shocks to-day, one of which was very severe,

-felt equally on shore and at sea. The Captain fancied the ship was on a

-rock.

-

-

-_Monday, September 13th._--Yesterday I spent at Tanrig. Mr. Turnbull

-slept the night with me, and spent the whole of Sunday. We had school in

-the early morning and after that, breakfast. Then followed Morning

-Prayer with a very large congregation. In the afternoon Mr. Comins, Mr.

-Plant, Mr. Brittain, the Captain, Engineer, and a large number of

-Melanesians came up to see the village and stayed to our social meal in

-the evening. They were all quite charmed with the people and the place,

-and enjoyed very much the pleasant walk. Mr. Turnbull took his

-departure, and Mr. Brittain spent the night with me. The party, with the

-exception of Mr. Comins, were not successful on the return journey and

-missing the track got into the taro gardens, and floundered about in the

-mud in the most helpless confusion. Not finding a way out of their

-difficulty they tried back, and hit happily upon the right track. This

-little episode threw somewhat of a damper upon the visit, and the party

-returned rather wet and crestfallen to the ship. Mr. Comins was accused

-of being the cause of the misfortune, and I believe those who fared

-worse than he heaped their approbrium on him when they got on board. The

-Bishop was not well, and we were all disappointed not to see him at our

-head quarters. Naturally, a visit from our Bishop is looked upon as a

-red letter day by our people, and if he cannot come the disappointment

-is very apparent. Mr. Brittain and I dined together and spent a most

-pleasant evening. It was a most glorious evening, and the calm peace of

-a cloudless sunset gave place to the most brilliant moonlight. We sat

-outside the house talking to the people until Prayer time. The service

-was a very impressive one, for I got Arthur to say a few words to his

-people before leaving them, and the thought of going away raised a great

-lump in his throat, and for some moments, although generally so ready

-and so eloquent, he could not say a word. Several times there was a

-tremble in his voice and he was nigh to breaking down, and his own

-undisguisable emotion produced a visible effect on his congregation. He

-said in the course of his remarks, that to-day they had seen a great

-concourse of people at their village, of many colours and nationalities.

-But though divided by race, differing in speech, and separated in

-locality, they were all one people with them, because through Christ

-they were all united in one, owning one God and Father of all, believing

-one Common Saviour, knit together by one Spirit, and professing one

-religion. Though so many and so various we were all one in Christ. And

-then he went on to speak of himself and them, still carrying on the same

-idea, and he said that although divided in bodily presence, unseen by

-the bodily eye, and separated by the wide ocean, they were still one in

-spirit and in heart. Oceans could not separate those whom God had joined

-together, and whether near or far they were still all one in Christ. And

-then almost overcome, he said it might be God’s will that they should

-never again see each others’ faces, but they must look forward to the

-great meeting time beyond the grave, where parting would again be

-unknown, and those whom Christ had joined together, and made one in

-Himself should be one for ever with Him and behold His glory. Because

-they were going to be separated it was no reason that they should forget

-each other, but day by day they should remember each other at the Throne

-of Grace, until such time as they should be reunited in this world, or

-if not, in the world to come. I followed with a few remarks, and a very

-impressive service concluded with the Blessing. After the service I

-called the teachers together to make final arrangements for our

-departure to-morrow, and Patrick was quite content to take charge of the

-school. I am very glad that he should, and I quite feel that the extra

-responsibility will be good for him.

-

-Arthur Huqe will go with me to Opa for the change, and return again with

-me when the ship comes back from Norfolk Island. Two Maewo lads have

-expressed a wish to go with us to Opa, and I am very glad of any

-exchange of friendship between the two islands. It will do them good to

-see other places, and enlarge their minds and ideas to see other people

-beside themselves. Moreover, being with Arthur, a native of Opa, they

-will not feel so lonely as if going by themselves. They are two nice

-boys, and I hope they will profit by the little outing.

-

-Mr. Brittain’s enthusiasm was quite cheering, and we were very late in

-getting to bed, being so busy talking over our mutual work, inasmuch as

-our district is one, and he knows the people here so well.

-

-This morning we were astir very early, and after Prayers and breakfast

-were very busy getting ready for our departure. Many hands made light

-work, and soon our impedimenta were shouldered by willing bearers, and

-we were on our way for the Kerepei. We had a most pleasant walk down,

-Mr. Brittain most cheery and appreciative all the way, and we were all

-on board very soon after the stipulated time, 10 o’clock. We had a

-light wind to start with, but it soon fell calm, and the engineer’s

-services were called into requisition. It is very hot work steaming in

-these latitudes, and the cabin especially gets very stuffy. We anchored

-at Opa between five and six o’clock, and I got my things ready for the

-start ashore in daylight. Mr. Brittain and Mr. Turnbull came with me,

-and we visited the French Trader ashore, who was said to have the latest

-telegrams. We were quite astonished, not only at the polite manner in

-which we were received, but by the neat and tastey appearance of the

-little man’s premises and dwelling house. He is evidently a man of

-considerable genius, and far more energy than most of the Traders down

-in these parts.

-

-His kitchen garden was a sight to behold, and although for three months

-he has had no rain he has an abundance of cabbages, carrots, onions,

-shalots, garlick, parsley, spinnach, lettuce, &c. The whole garden too

-is laid out in the most natty matter, showing wonderful care and

-perseverance. Inside his house it was equally neat, and the walls were

-decorated with an enormous number of island curiosities. During the

-slack time of the year when cocoanuts are scarce he makes very curious,

-but extremely chaste, ornaments out of shells, and sells them to Traders

-at about fifteen shillings the pair. He also makes sleeve links out of

-opercules, and many other ornaments of personal adornment. He gave us a

-great basket full of eggs, and some green food for the ship. We bade the

-amiable and loquacious little man good-bye, and thanked him for his

-kindness, and then pushed on for Tavalavola where we found the whole

-village waiting for us, and Charles and Monica heading the party. I was

-most pleased to see the happy and affectionate relations which existed

-between them, and the natural and unaffected way in which she came into

-my house, and the kind care she exhibited in the bestowal of my goods

-and chattels. Afterwards when we went off to the ship she came with us,

-and went down of her own accord to see the Bishop in the cabin. We did

-not stay long on board, but bidding farewell to them all we came ashore

-for the night. I should have liked of course to stay till morning, but

-they were so crowded on board I thought it was better we were out of the

-way. It was near midnight when we finally retired for the night, and I

-was very tired and glad to get to bed. The boys are so nice and

-friendly, and come in and out of my house so naturally, that it gives

-one quite a homely feeling, and when they call me “Mama” (Father) I feel

-quite proud of the spiritual relationship. I quite look forward to my

-stay here, and I hope under it God may be the means of much good.

-

-

-_Tuesday, September 14th._--Most beautiful morning, but the night was

-very cold, and I was very glad of a blanket over me. We had Prayers and

-school before breakfast, the scholars numbering about 50 of both sexes.

-I was quite astonished at the admirable way most of them read and

-answered, and equally struck with the diligent and painstaking manner in

-which the boys were teaching. The school is admirably conducted, and

-peculiarly well and thoroughly taught. The scholars are evidently very

-sharp, and one or two little boys and a very little wee girl read

-surprisingly well. Charles, the head teacher, is a most steady and

-excellent young fellow, and to him the credit of the efficiency of the

-school is mainly due. All the other boys however, work well and steadily

-with him, and I was particularly gratified to see what a helpmeet his

-wife Monica is to him. In the course of the day the older people were

-about, and I told them I wanted them to come and get instruction also,

-to which they consented. While I was at breakfast the French Trader

-called on me and brought me a most noble present of green food, for

-which I was deeply grateful. He was very amiable, most polite and

-peculiarly loquacious, and I was quite interested in listening to his

-broken English. He is a Parisian and was in the ‘garde mobile’ during

-the siege by the Prussians, which of course means that he is a

-Communist. He left me after a time, and I set to work to put my house in

-order. The boys went to ‘Tahi mamavi,’ where we have a school, which I

-hope we shall be able now to teach regularly. Meramaeto (Paskal) had

-been there living, but some trouble broke out and he had to come away in

-consequence. Now all is pacific again, and we hope to make another fresh

-and vigorous start, which I hope will be permanent. In the afternoon I

-went to see a Trader who had sent me a request to visit him, not having

-a boat of his own. His complaint was, that having a Frenchman on either

-side of him, and he doing a better trade than either they were jealous

-of him, and had threatened him with violence if he did not leave. He is

-a Scotchman and a very decent fellow. The Frenchmen had threatened also

-to lay hands on his copra, looking on him as an interloper, inasmuch as

-they suppose the French are about to annex the New Hebrides group. I did

-all I could to explain his position to the natives, and ‘Tabi’ the

-chief, and really a big man, said that while he dealt fairly with them

-he would see that he was properly protected and fairly dealt with. I

-told him that he and I were subjects of one Queen, and of a different

-nationality to the Frenchmen, and that being a steady and well-behaved

-and honest man he ought to help him all he could. He had a great many

-nuts, and a large amount of copra, and I should say he was doing very

-well. He does not trade with powder, or guns, or spirit, and is

-evidently a very temperate man. He asked me to tell the natives not to

-bring the coconuts on Sunday as he wanted that as a day of Rest, and he

-asked me if I could make it convenient to come and see him sometimes on

-that day, because he wished not to forget his God in the midst of his

-mundane pursuits. He has been a sailor all his life, and has a mate’s

-certificate, I think. He has only been here five weeks from Sydney, and

-hitherto has done very well. I got back to dinner, and then went to see

-David, one of our teachers, who is sick. He was very full of his child,

-about three years old, a perfect prodigy. He told me the child would get

-into a perfect frenzy if he were not allowed to go to school and

-Prayers, and when once or twice he has been left at home he has knelt

-down in their house and gone through the form of prayer by himself. He

-will never go without his clothes, and the only time they can get him to

-take them off is to bathe. Even at night he must have on a garment. His

-mother told me too that his first thought in the morning, even before

-eating, was the bell, and he would tug at her sleeve until she took him

-up and started for the school. The same was the case too, in the

-evening. They also told me of a poor girl who had died about a fortnight

-ago. She has been most regular at school for years past, and was far

-away ahead of all the others in knowledge. She never would marry because

-she was afraid she should be debarred from attending school. She was

-most anxious to be Baptized, and when she was taken ill she still longed

-for Baptism. She importuned Charles so on the subject that just before

-her death, he sprinkled her with water in the Name of the Trinity, and

-signed the sign of the Cross on her forehead. She died perfectly happy

-and at peace, and her devoted life and peaceful death have produced a

-great and profound impression in the village.

-

-While talking with David, his old grandmother came in, and she is a

-woman of great age, and marvellous energy. She is now a great

-grandmother, and a bright, cheery old lady. I asked her how old she

-thought she was, and she said she really did not know, but she was very

-aged. She said that I had always told her that she “tugi vetu” (was as

-hard as flint) and it seemed as if she really was. She comes regularly

-to school, but her eyes are so dim that she can only sit and listen.

-Several old ladies attend school only to sit and listen, and they take

-great interest in coming. In the evening we had Prayers, and a very nice

-school afterwards.

-

-So ends my first day, and I hope all the other days I am here may be as

-pleasant and as happy.

-

-

-_Wednesday, September 15th._--A beautiful morning but a strong Trade

-wind blowing. After our morning duties here we sailed down to ‘Lobaha’

-to see Arudale, Didi and the school there. We pulled the boat up on the

-beach, no very easy work with the sand so soft. Most of the boys were

-down at the beach and we all went up together to the village. It was a

-hot, steep climb and we were very liquid when we got there. The boys

-brought us a plentiful supply of young coconuts and with these we

-quenched our thirst. I was glad to see the amiability which was

-manifested one towards another by our people and the Lobaha folks, for

-lately the relations have been somewhat strained.

-

-It appears that not long ago, the chief wife of our Head man took

-offence at his scolding her, and ran away to his younger brother who

-lives at Lobaha. Our great man was very fond of this wife, for they had

-grown up together from childhood, and she had always presided over his

-establishment in a most devoted manner. She is most queenly in

-deportment, and quite one of the finest native women I have ever seen.

-However, she went off, and “Virclumlum” was not only incensed, but very

-sorely grieved. He told the boys in most pathetic words how he missed

-his wife, how that it seemed unbearable to do without her, how that

-everything seemed void and empty now that she was away. However, once

-away it seems she was away for good, and very soon a pig arrived and

-that he had to accept in lieu of her. For a long time the people here

-have never been to Lobaha and contrariwise the Lobaha people here.

-However, we have, I hope, broken the ice again, although I am

-particularly sorry to lose so nice a woman from the place, and I believe

-she has deeply repented already of her conduct and would give worlds to

-be back again. I was glad to see a new school in course of erection, and

-the old men and women told me they were only waiting for it to be

-finished to all coming to school. Herbert has already a nice little

-building at his own place, but the people say it is too far away, and

-any excuse is enough to keep people away from religious duties. Herbert

-shewed me with manifest pride, the most beautiful tool chest sent by his

-English “mother” (Miss Mount). He has been trying to use the tools, and

-I saw an attempt at some amount of straightness in the new building at

-which he was assisting. We stayed some time with him, talking over

-matters in connection with the school, &c., and then we made

-preparations for home. The wind was blowing strong down the coast, so

-that a sail was useless, and we had a heavy pull. However, the boys are

-very good oarsmen, and we got along famously. I anchored the boat off

-for the night, having use for her again to-morrow. It was a very

-miserable evening, the wind blowing in strong gusts, and the threatened

-rain falling at short intervals. We had Prayers and a very long

-interesting school afterwards. The boys and girls here are very sharp,

-and learn very rapidly, and seem to understand well what they read.

-There are three classes of Catechumens preparing for Baptism, adults,

-boys and girls, all more or less proficient. Altogether, this school is

-very cheering, and with such an excellent head teacher as Charles, one

-need not fear of its stability.

-

-

-_Thursday, September 16th._--After our morning duties were over here we

-rowed up to “Lo tahi mamavi,” and had school there with a large number

-of people, who were very enthusiastic to know more and to be regularly

-taught.

-

-There are a nice lot of boys here, and some already know how to read.

-The old men I had school with, and they seemed quite delighted to say

-the letters one by one, and afterwards to put them together, and find

-out that they made Opa words. I told them as far as I could about our

-religion, and that I had left home, and all to come and live with them

-and teach them, but that Jesus Christ pitied and loved us so much that

-He left heaven, and His Father’s glory to come down into our world to

-live and die for us. They were very attentive, and asked me to come

-again, which I promised to do on Sunday, all being well. They gave us a

-handsome present of food according to native custom, and we left for

-home. It was raining heavily and we got very wet, but the distance was

-not very great. It was a most unpleasant evening, and I was cold and

-miserable, and I began to fear ague again. Last night was most wretched,

-my house was not properly finished, and the strong gusts of wind blew me

-almost out of bed, and brought in clouds of dust. To-day the boys have

-been patching up the holes, and it is more snug and comfortable.

-

-

-_Friday, September 17th._--Fine morning and very close and hot after the

-rain. After breakfast I received a visit from an English Trader, who

-lives about two miles from me. Poor fellow, in my honour he had put on a

-coat, and he was literally running with perspiration when he reached my

-house, and he did not succeed in getting cool again before he left

-although he stayed some time. He seems to be doing a very fair trade

-here in copra, and although he has not been long on the island, he has

-already several tons of the dried coconut (copra). After he left I was

-attacked with a good-for-nothing fit and did nothing all day. In the

-evening I was very queer, and thought I was going to have rheumatism, my

-legs were so cold and my limbs generally so frail. However I managed

-Evensong and school, and was not sorry to be ready early for bed.

-

-

-_Saturday, September 18th._--General holiday here. The boys wished me to

-take them to Vuinago, fishing, to which I rashly consented. It was a

-perfectly windless day and, oh! so hot. We had a long weary pull up, but

-were very successful when we got there, and came home late in the

-evening with about eighty fish. I was very glad to be able to send ten

-to the French Trader, as a return for all his many kindnesses to me, the

-rest were divided out to different great people, and about thirty were

-kept for to-morrow’s dinner. I was very glad the boys did not forget the

-women in their distribution. I had a nice fish for my own tea, a kind of

-mackarel. Very soon after dinner it was Prayer time, and I am now

-preparing for bed being very tired, sunburnt, and sleepy.

-

-The boys are having great fun over the way, and it is evident the outing

-has not had much ill effect on their spirits.

-

-

-_Sunday, September 19th._--Yesterday was perfectly calm and cloudless,

-and to-day again it is blowing very hard, with rain squalls at

-intervals. We began the day with school, and then after an interval for

-breakfast we had Mattins with a fair congregation. The females are very

-enthusiastic and attend very regularly, and the same applies to the

-boys, but the older men are very callous. There are one or two who never

-miss, but the majority are much more concerned with the affairs of this

-world, than about the one thing needful. There are one or two old

-fellows who are very regular, and who seem really to like being taught,

-but most of the men prefer the free and careless life to which they have

-always been accustomed. There are many who feel the beauty of

-Christianity, but it is so hard to them to practise it. They think it

-is all right for boys and women, but they themselves cannot stand the

-bother and burden it entails.

-

-After Prayers we went up to “Tahi mamavi” and found the whole population

-awaiting us. We divided them into five sets, two of boys, one of youths,

-and two of old men. Charles and I taught the old men, and found them

-very attentive. Walter Tarigisibue addressed the youths who seemed

-appreciative, and Paschal and Peter taught the boys who were said to

-learn very quickly. They asked us to fix a day for coming again, and

-said they should expect us every Sunday. I had been feeling sick and

-queer all day, and coming home was violently sick in the boat. I got

-home as quickly as possible, but the sickness continued, accompanied by

-ague, and afterwards strong fever headache, and then strong

-perspiration, and this morning, (Monday) convalescence.

-

-However, I am very washed out and good for nothing, and shall rest at

-home. I am disappointed however, for I meant to have gone to the other

-side of the island in the boat, and had made all my preparations. Now I

-must wait a bit.

-

-

-_Tuesday, September 21st._--Reasonably convalescent again, but weak and

-not fit for much. It was a most unpleasant day however, with fitful

-squalls of rain and wind, and I could not have gone far even if I had

-wanted. The boys were busy planting “Virelumlum’s” yam garden, and were

-kept hard at work all day. I was not surprised, for I previously knew it

-to be the custom here for the chief’s wives to prepare his food in the

-gamal. Generally speaking, women are not admitted within these edifices,

-and more especially here, but to-day Virelumlum’s wives, three or four

-in number, were busy with the men getting ready the evening meal. I

-asked them where they were going to eat themselves, and they said with

-some naïvete, “Oh! that is a secondary matter, we have to get our

-masters’ dinner ready and shift for ourselves as best we may.” It would

-be impossible for them to eat any food cooked in the gamal, and so

-religiously have they been brought up under this restriction, that they

-would probably sooner die of hunger than attempt to appease their

-appetites with what to them is sacred food, or at least forbidden, and

-they are more faithful to the laws of men, than was Eve to the law of

-God. And, I suppose as spiritual death was the judgment on Eve’s

-disobedience, so would physical death be the penalty in case of their

-transgression. Human life is not more highly valued here than it is in

-Ireland, and a woman’s life is not much accounted of, and death is the

-common penalty for very trivial offences. Here it is universally

-averred that woman is at the root of all the evil that transpires, and

-poor things, they are too often the victims where the men go scott free.

-Here the females are much in excess of the males, and naturally polygamy

-is widely practised. The big men however, get the lion’s share, and it

-is no uncommon thing to find a troop of women in the households of the

-chiefs, varying from ten to fifty or even one hundred. All no doubt are

-not wives, but slaves and beasts of burden, and these big guns do

-nothing themselves but impose all the duties of the house and garden on

-their women. I do not think I am maligning the Opa men when I say that I

-look upon them as hideously lazy, but of course that results in large

-measure from their imposing their own natural duties on others, whom

-they find ready or obliged to do it for them. It is quite different at

-Maewo, where monogamy now mostly obtains, and where the men take an

-active and a man’s share in all out door employments. However Virelumlum

-was very active bustling about among his women, and I saw him

-shouldering off a big burden of yams, following up the rear of a troop

-of preceding females.

-

-Here time seems of no importance and no account, and it wearies me

-sometimes to see people squatting about for hours at a time, whistling

-or otherwise killing time. It is an ennervating climate no doubt, but

-that is no excuse for laziness in people who have been born and brought

-up in the country. I often urge laggards and idlers, who make my house a

-convenient lounge, to go to work and plant their fences, but as nothing

-can be done out of due course, what was, is, and ever must be the same.

-

-In the evening there was a great feast spread for the workers, and the

-day finished like all days here, with Evensong and school. This little

-village is a bright spot in the surrounding darkness, and I trust in

-time its influence for good will be more widely felt than even now. The

-attendants at the school seem wonderfully staunch, and the teachers very

-earnest, and I pray God that their vigorous instruction may not be lost

-on the heathen people around them. But there is the same callousness

-attending religious practice as about everything else here, and although

-they see the beauty and the benefit of Christianity, the effort is too

-great to reduce its blessed precepts to daily practice.

-

-

-_Wednesday, September 22nd._--By-and-bye I shall have as much trouble

-with my white flock, as with the black. The white Traders have got some

-feud one against the other because of difference of nationality, and I

-had to listen again to accusations from an Englishman against a

-Frenchman, as to plots against his life and property. Poor man, he is

-new to the business, is doing well, and fancies that he is taking the

-bread out of the Frenchmen’s mouths, but there is room for all. I found

-he was not only filled with gloomy fears himself, but had imbued the

-chief under whom he lives with warlike intentions also, and I had to put

-a veto upon any resort to open violence. I told the chief “Tabi,” that

-he must keep his hands from all white men, and if he had any complaints

-to make, to make them in the proper quarter, and not take the law into

-his own hands. He must learn the sacredness of human life, and not rush

-to bow and arrow and club for every fancied affront or grievance. As

-long as I was here I would do my best to see that peace and harmony

-reigned among whites and blacks, but I would countenance no violence or

-bloodshed. After this I went to the Frenchman at La[¨n]a[¨n]qa, and he

-seemed very surprised to think that he was accused of any ill feeling,

-and judging from his good nature I should imagine his surprise was

-genuine. However, I said it was very hard if a few white men living on

-so large an island, could not live at peace, even if their nationalities

-were various, and if they could not agree among themselves, what could

-be expected of the natives? I quite like the natty little man, and

-certainly he is the best colonist I have ever seen down here. He is a

-most handy man and always employed, and as far as industry goes, he sets

-the natives a very excellent example. The neatness of his house and

-surroundings too, ought to have a good effect.

-

-The fine day turned into a most dirty, rough, unpleasant evening, and we

-went to Prayers in a perfect downpour of rain. After Church there were

-great searchings of heart among the elders, and I publicly announced

-that I wanted the names of those who wished for Baptism. To the surprise

-of everybody, and to the delight of not a few, four women stood up and

-said almost simultaneously “Inew” (I). These quiet, demure creatures,

-generally so terribly afraid of the men, and always so shy in public,

-must have been influenced by a stronger Power than any they had hitherto

-known to make this public profession, and it produced no small sensation

-on all present. Two men also said they wished to be admitted to the

-Sacred Rite, and I hope they will soon be followed by many more. Charles

-Tariqatu’s influence here is great, and the fruits of his thorough and

-earnest teaching are beginning to be felt. He is so thorough and good

-himself, that his example and influence have all the more effect. There

-will be about twenty to be baptized on Sunday, the nucleus I trust, of a

-good Christian population hereafter.

-

-

-_Thursday, September 23rd._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day.

-Fortunately there was a great festivity here, and I was not left without

-something to do all day. I trust I did not spend quite an unprofitable

-time. I begin to see distinct light through my work here now, and I can

-see how the seed sown through long years is at last beginning to bear

-fruit. I am eminently satisfied with the work of the boys here, and I

-can see that Charles’s influence pervades everything. One man to-day,

-who never has taken much interest in our teaching, came to ask me if

-Martin Ta[¨n]abei might not come back from Norfolk Island, and live with

-him and his people as teacher. Another told me that my words to him of

-former years have quite changed the course of his life, and no doubt he

-is as different as possible to what he formerly was. I was under

-engagement to go to Tahimamavi, but when we were launching the boat the

-rain came down in such torrents that I reluctantly turned back. The

-evening was as bad as the day, and most uncomfortable it was in my

-leaking, cold house. We had Evensong with a good congregation, but a

-great gust of wind put out the principal lamp in the very middle of the

-service, and made it somewhat dismal.

-

-

-_Friday, September 24th._--Fine bright morning and a very hot day.

-Having failed to go to “Tahimamavi” yesterday I resolved to go instead

-this morning. We had a hot, but a most pleasant row up the coast about

-three miles, and found the people awaiting our arrival. They had been

-disappointed that we did not come yesterday, but supposed that the rain

-was the occasion of our failing in our promise. Such a nice number of

-bright boys assembled for school, and a great many grown-up people. The

-boys were divided into two classes, and two of the boys taught them

-their letters. The older men I undertook to teach myself with the help

-of Peter. I made a few remarks at first and then told Peter to say a few

-words. I was quite unprepared for what followed. It is not often I have

-seen such an effect on a native audience, and his flow of natural

-eloquence from beginning to end quite held the men enchained. With a

-great deal of energy, and a vast amount of earnestness, he went into the

-thick of his subject, and left an impression which I feel sure must,

-under God, have a good effect. At the end of his remarks he said very

-modestly, “You may perhaps think it presumptuous in me to stand here in

-your presence and speak like this, you who are old enough to be my

-fathers, and so high in rank all of you as to look upon me as a mere

-nonentity, and indeed I am amazed at my own audacity. But I speak about

-things of so momentous import that I take the chance of your

-displeasure, and submit myself to whatever verdict you may choose to

-return. Were I only concerned about things which belong to our heathen

-state, I should take the place of a humble listener and you should do

-the talking, but here all is different, for out of the abundance of the

-heart the mouth must speak, and that heart and mouth, thank God, are

-mine.” There was not even an assent of approval, all were so impressed

-with the message delivered so eloquently by a mere boy. I said at the

-end, after a long pause, for I did not like to break the spell which

-seemed to hold them all, “Our son has spoken good words to you which I

-hope you will not soon forget.” And they all said, “Who can forget

-them?” I was also much pleased with the way the boys had got on with

-their reading after so few lessons, and altogether I felt that a “great

-door and effectual had been opened here,” for which I was most thankful

-to Almighty God. Now it remains but to put a good teacher there, and I

-think a wide harvest may by God’s blessing be soon gathered in. We came

-back with a fair wind in the afternoon, and in the evening again we had

-torrents of rain. However, we had our full complement at Prayers, and a

-very nice time afterwards.

-

-

-_Saturday, September 25th._--I had intended to-day to have gone to

-Walurigi, but it set in to a wet day, and I was obliged to stay at home.

-However, I had a succession of visitors, and among them some Bushmen

-from a long way inland. The boys told me some odd stories about them,

-how ignorant they formerly were and what strange things they did in

-consequence. When they first came down to the sea they fancied it was

-hungry, because the surf came rolling in, as they said, “mouth wide

-open.” They therefore gave it food to eat. Knowing only the taro root,

-when first getting possession of a yam, they fancied it was firewood and

-put into the fire. Some many years ago they came down here in quest of a

-pig, and while waiting in the gamal their eyes caught sight of a tin

-with the picture of a lobster outside. Thinking this was something very

-wonderful they stole it, and marched off homewards with it instead of

-their pig. Arriving at their village home the chief made a great feast

-for it, and placed it in the midst of the village dancing ground, and

-went through the various ceremonies as if it were a pig in verity. The

-ceremonies over, the chief advanced to the tin, and with his foot,

-squashed up the tin as if he was treading the life of a pig out, with

-the inevitable result that he almost cut his foot off. Now-a-days of

-course they are more enlightened, and the men who were here to-day I

-found very amiable and intelligent. All “salt water” natives despise

-Bushmen, and they have always stories to tell of them. There is somehow

-a natural feud existing between them, but the agression I must say,

-comes generally from the Bushmen. They do, certainly, very unaccountable

-things, but they are always forgiven, and their conduct explained by

-saying, “Oh, they are only Bushmen,” or as they say here “(Taute).” A

-small vessel passed here in the afternoon, and anchored off M. Moussu’s

-place “Ia[¨n]a[¨n]qa.” In the evening there was the greatest excitement, the

-boys returning from fishing saw a boat under sail coming down the coast,

-and the general idea was that it was Mr. Brittain. I was led into the

-swim, and made active preparations for his reception, but he never

-turned up, the sail belonged to some other boat.

-

-Heavy rain and strong wind squalls again in the evening.

-

-

-_Sunday, September 26th._--A day which will ever be memorable to me,

-here at Tavolavola. To-day I Baptized twenty-five people, and it has

-been indeed a day of great spiritual enjoyment to me. Before I was up in

-the very early morning, I heard boys in the school house reading their

-baptismal service over, and all through the day there are some who have

-never had their books out of their hands. The teachers have done their

-part most admirably, and I thank God for such earnest children. We had

-school before breakfast, and a most excellent school too. I went from

-class to class leaving A. P. Huqe to discourse the older men. The boys,

-nothing daunted by my presence, kept their instruction going, which was

-generally very thorough and good. The earnestness of all was quite

-remarkable. After school and breakfast we had Morning Prayers, a nice

-hearty service, and after that we started by boat for “Tahimamavi.” Here

-we found the people awaiting us, and soon we were assembled for school.

-Charles gave the old men a very good and eloquent address, and three

-other classes were provided for. On our way home we stopped for a few

-minutes to learn the news from the schooner at anchor, but they had none

-except that the French troops were still at Port Sandwich, and did not

-intend to move at present, and moreover, that the Mail Steamer had a

-contract to come as far North as that Port. This does not look like

-clearing out of the group, and the Captain told me they had not the

-least intention of moving at present. Before long we shall know the fate

-of these islands, but I sincerely trust they may not fall into the hands

-of the French. In the afternoon I was most pleased to see the teachers

-selecting boys and youths, more especially connected with them by ties

-of kindred, and taking them for a walk and serious talk, as is the

-custom at Norfolk Island. Everyone was so filled with enthusiasm that

-the chief himself sent to say he wished to be Baptized, but inasmuch as

-he has already four or five wives, and contemplates taking more, I could

-not listen to his petition for a moment. To put away his wives would

-lower him in rank at once, and in the choice between God and Mammon, he

-felt the difficulty of putting away any of his women, and I was obliged

-to leave him with his god Mammon.

-

-In the early evening we decorated the Font, and when the building was

-lit up at night with lots of candles, it looked quite nice. The service

-was quite one of the most stirring I have ever taken part in, and the

-ready responses one by one, of men and women, produced a great effect on

-every one present. The women, generally like poor frightened, startled

-creatures, answered out marvellously, with a vigour and earnestness,

-such as no one was prepared for. The ceremony of Baptizing twenty-five

-people took some time, but no one seemed fatigued, so interested were

-they in what was going on. Among the number Baptized were a blind man,

-and a blind woman, but they, like the rest, were wonderfully

-self-possessed. Poor Diu, whom I called Kate, after Miss Lodge, who had

-nursed her so faithfully at Norfolk Island, was perfectly ecstatic in

-her delight, and seemed endued with special strength, having risen from

-a bed of sickness on purpose to be present.

-

-I gave a short address afterwards, and was followed by Charles, who

-spoke well to the subject, and in very good taste considering the number

-of outsiders present.

-

-We finished with the Nunc Dimittis, a fitting conclusion to a most

-beautiful service.

-

-

-_Monday, September 27th._--A most beautiful day, and a whole holiday. I

-told the scholars in the morning that I wished to see only smiling and

-happy faces all day, and to hear of nothing but joy and gladness because

-of the occasion of the holiday, viz., to celebrate the spiritual

-birthday of twenty-five brothers and sisters. Food in large quantities

-was provided, and we managed to secure two pigs for the feast. I think

-it was the brightest and happiest day I have ever known here, and our

-festivities were shared in by a number of neighbours. Contrary to

-strict custom here, the women and girls of the school prepared the food

-under the trees on the beach, the boys chopping the wood and doing the

-heavy work. The scene was a very animated one, and all seemed to be in

-the very best of tempers. In the evening the ovens were opened, and the

-distribution of the food was made. Unfortunately I was not very well

-myself, but that did not interfere very much with the rest. In the cool

-of the evening the boys played a number of their native games, very

-pretty and very picturesque, with a pretty song to each. When darkness

-closed in we had Evensong, and then the happy day was brought to an end.

-

-

-_Tuesday, September 28th._--This morning after our duties here, we

-started for a long voyage to “Vagebeo,” which means something like “down

-West.” “Beo” is the word used there for “down,” while ours here is

-“Hivo.” “Vage” is a particle put before the name of a place with a sense

-of motion towards the place, thus when we are going to Maewo we are here

-going “vage Maewo,” or Araga “vage Raga,” or Marino “vage Marino,” and

-so when we are going to the Beo people we are going “Vage Beo.” We call

-the people of those parts “Meraibeo.” They, on the other hand, term

-these parts “Taulu,” “up East,” and when coming here they say they are

-going “Vageulu,” because our word for “up” here is “Ulu.” We here are to

-them “Natiulu.”

-

-We had a light, fair wind down, and did the journey in good time. We

-hauled up our boat at a place called “Duidui,” where a Mr. Wilber,

-commonly called “Jim” by white traders, and by the natives, “Timi,”

-lives.

-

-He came down to welcome us, and extended his hospitality to me as long

-as I chose to stay. I was not sorry to accept it, and I made his

-residence the basis of my operations. He has been here for many years,

-and is well known and very much liked by the natives. He does a very

-extensive business there in copra (the dried coconut), &c., and deals

-very kindly, liberally, and most honourably with the people. He has very

-nice premises there, and a large establishment. He got us refreshments

-served as soon as we arrived, and after resting for a time he went with

-me to the village of the great man of those parts “A[¨n]ga,” or as the

-Traders call him, “anchor.” I knew him formerly as a very large and

-powerful man, but long sickness has reduced him to a terrible and

-pitiable state of weakness and leanness. He asked me to come and settle

-in those parts and start a school for his people. The natives there are

-very numerous and extremely amiable, and I feel sure a great deal might

-be done if I could see my way to settling there. A fine young fellow,

-his son, was very friendly, and also asked me to come and teach them. I

-said I would see what I could do if they would spare me some boys to go

-to Norfolk Island to be taught. This they said they would do, as they

-were tired of the Labour ships. We got back, and Mr. Wilber indulged us

-in a most sumptuous repast. The boys, my boat’s crew, being tired, we

-had Prayers early, and they retired for the night in very comfortable

-quarters provided for them. We, Mr. Wilber, another white man and

-myself, sat talking till far on into the night, and when I retired it

-was to the ample recesses of a large four poster, with sheets and other

-delights and comforts of civilization. I felt I had turned my host out

-of his bed, but he would insist on my sleeping where he had put me, and

-I acquiesced. The next morning, _Wednesday, 29th September_, it was very

-hot and calm, and I determined not to start till the afternoon. After a

-sumptuous lunch I went to another great man’s village, and received a

-warm welcome. There they told me that they would build me a schoolhouse

-and give me boys, and would sell their land to no one else if I would

-come there and occupy it. Altogether the cry from Macedonia to come over

-and help them was very cheering, and I must try what I can do for them.

-

-At the end of this period of my work, it is pleasant and thankworthy to

-find the Morian’s land stretching out her hands unto God. We started

-soon after I got back for “home,” and had a long, toilsome journey up.

-However, the boat’s crew were very plucky and merry, and didn’t seem

-much to mind as the boat’s head was towards Tavolavola. I myself was

-very seasick in the smooth water, and very soon was in the shivering fit

-of the ague. I made as good a bed as possible in the boat, and lay down

-till I got here. On arrival I found Mr. Brittain and party here, and

-felt sorry for him that I was such a sorry host. I certainly felt

-cheered by his society, and we sat quite late talking about matters of

-mutual interest.

-

-

-_Thursday, September 30th._--After a night of fever and strong

-perspiration I got up this morning feeling fairly refreshed, and a good

-deal better, but weak and not fit for much. Mr. Brittain and his party

-went to Lobaha by boat, but I stayed at home to rest. In the afternoon

-we walked up to M. Moussu’s place, and he showed us with great pride his

-garden and poultry yard, and all the other many things which his

-ingenuity devised, and his cunning hand has fashioned. He gave a

-splendid quantity of green food, which we afterwards enjoyed for

-dinner. Prayers concluded the public part of the day, and Mr. B. and

-myself sat till late talking here in the quiet of a most pacific and

-mild evening.

-

-

-_Friday, October 1st._--Fine day. After our morning duties here were

-over, Mr. Brittain and I went up to Tahimamavi, and stayed some time

-with the kind-hearted people.

-

-Before leaving, Mr. Brittain bought a number of native Opa mats, which

-are much treasured at his station at Araga. The Opa people are great

-hands at mat weaving, and are possessors of a greater quantity and

-variety than any natives I know. Since the introduction of European

-calico the manufacture has somewhat diminished. However, when it comes

-to getting so much tobacco, a great many still turn up, and for the

-labour it must be to make them, the price is perhaps inadequate except

-they get all they ask.

-

-We came home in the very hot sun, and Mr. Brittain sat down to dinner

-alone, I myself being too sick to join him. All the evening I was fit

-for nothing, and lay down all the time. I did not get up for church, and

-only finally left my bed to go back to it again for the night. I felt

-miserably shabby in my position as host to treat my guest so, but I

-could not help it.

-

-

-_Saturday, October 2nd._--Dull threatening morning and squally. Mr.

-Brittain and party decided to go although we tried to detain them. The

-day, however, cleared, and as they did not return we concluded that they

-had stood across for Maewo. I was feeling weak and miserable when the

-kind little Frenchman, M. Moussu, appeared to take me away to have lunch

-with him. I had agreed to partake of his hospitality on this day, but

-had quite forgotten all about it. However, my seediness was excuse

-enough for my forgetfulness, and here he was with his boat to take me

-off. He is a first rate cook, and treated me to such a display of

-luxuries as I have never before seen in these parts. The choicest soup,

-&c., &c., and later on in the feast a most excellent dish of beche de

-mer. This I liked very much, and should fancy it was very nourishing. He

-complained of my want of appetite, and J. was sorry I had not more when

-so many good things were there to be eaten. He brought me back again in

-his boat, and I felt pretty well all the evening. We had Prayers, and

-singing practice afterwards, preparatory to Sunday. The evening was

-fine, and I trust Mr. Brittain and party are well on their homeward way.

-I wished him to stay till Monday, but he was anxious to get back for

-Sunday.

-

-

-_Sunday, October 3rd._--Last night I fancied A. P. Huqe was at the point

-of death. To-day I felt very ill myself, and have been fit for very

-little all day. I managed to get through my Sunday duties here, however,

-and Charles, Mera, and some others went to Tahimamavi, where they had

-the usual school. I feel very comforted at the earnest manner with which

-these good people are stretching out their hands at last unto God. I

-pray that His Spirit may descend upon them in ample measure, that they

-may continue as earnest to the end as they have now begun to be. I

-trust, too, the zeal and perseverance of the boys may keep up, so that

-the teaching may be regularly carried on, and the Word of God become a

-savour of life unto life.

-

-At present they are very earnest and even indefatigable, but I am

-somewhat afraid lest white supervision may have something to do with

-this, and when I am away the present enthusiasm may die down, and things

-be allowed to go on as they were before.

-

-Would to God I had a few more teachers like Charles Tariqatu, a man in

-whom truly the Spirit of God is, the most earnest, humble, patient,

-God-fearing, Gospel-loving youth Opa has ever known. I can only commit

-the matter to God, and He will provide as seemeth Him best.

-

-In the evening I was very sick and could eat no dinner, and went to bed

-with ague. Could not go to Church, and Charles took the service and

-preached.

-

-

-_Monday, October 4th._--Not very well. I had promised, if well enough,

-to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine

-day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very

-ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot

-flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted

-a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and

-comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he

-was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give

-him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him

-good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed

-aguish and shivering.

-

-

-_Tuesday, October 5th._--We had got through our morning duties, and I

-had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting

-for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable

-_Southern Cross_ close at hand. It was not long before she was at

-anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer

-on board from some distance off, and when we got alongside, the first

-question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was

-good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop

-and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was

-Mrs. Selwyn in _proporia persona_, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I

-was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her

-by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most

-glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our

-ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again

-ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were

-going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my

-surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were

-very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous

-at Norfolk Island.

-

-One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on

-board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is

-forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under

-steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about

-8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead,

-and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night.

-In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the

-cool night air ashore.

-

-

-_Wednesday, October 6th._--On board the _Southern Cross_. The tide did

-not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part,

-because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together

-preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn

-went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was

-quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too,

-was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another

-night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However,

-I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of

-sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on

-

-

-_Thursday, October 7th._--Mrs. Selwyn kindly came in with the Bishop to

-see the last of me, and A. P. Huqe and myself sat some time after our

-farewells had been said, deliberating the stupendous undertaking of

-getting to Tanrig. We were both much refreshed by our stay on board, and

-quite ready for our stay on shore again. I shall certainly not want for

-medical comforts and dainties, or even medicines, for the Bishop was

-kindness itself in lading me with one good thing after another, until my

-paraphernalia of travel have increased to the no small consternation of

-my bearers. When the vessel was well away we made our start, and with

-the expenditure of most of our strength, and certainly of all our

-moisture, we got at length to the top of the first hill. Then it was all

-plain sailing, and we got to Ruosi, where we rested and bathed. In that

-refreshing water I seemed to have left all my ailments and distresses,

-and I was quite another being when I started again for Tanrig. Hither we

-arrived in due course, and Huqe, too, seemed quite like another being.

-It is so nice getting back here again, with the cool invigorating air

-and the cheery welcoming faces all so pleasant. I miss Arthur, though,

-very much, and now that Patrick has gone in the ship, the place is

-almost devoid of teachers, ourselves excepted. The first evening ashore

-was fine, and the moon shone out brightly as we were coming from

-Prayers.

-

-

-_Friday, October 8th._--It rained very heavily during the night, and

-this morning and all day it blew very hard, with heavy rain squalls at

-intervals. I did not go out all day, and indeed, I had enough to keep me

-at home. The people were away busy with their gardens, and the women at

-home preparing the food for the men. I had almost interminable visits

-from one and another, during the day, to see the pictures which I had

-taken of the place, and which Dr. Codrington has printed and sent down

-to me. They were quite charmed with them, and were much more clever in

-finding out faces and details, than ever I expected they would be. The

-day drew rapidly to a close, and the evening was fairly pleasant, but

-somewhat cold and damp. We had a fair attendance at evening school, and

-I gave them an address instead of school.

-

-

-_Saturday, October 9th._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. The

-rain poured down, and the village looked as if it were going to be

-flooded. It kept on, too, without intermission almost the whole day, and

-I could not stir out of doors. However, I had plenty of occupation, and

-the time passed rapidly. It cleared slightly towards evening, and it was

-fine overhead for Evensong. Nothing seems to keep these hardy people

-indoors, and most of them have been paddling about all day in their taro

-gardens, utterly regardless of the state of the elements. In spite of

-all inconveniences we had quite a large evening congregation, and few

-seemed the worse in any way for the unpleasant day. It was a cold, raw

-evening, and I am not sorry that bed-time is so near.

-

-

-_Sunday, October 10th._--The day somewhat finer overhead, but still very

-squally and boisterous. As soon as I was up and dressed we had morning

-school, with a large and general attendance. The first two classes are

-supposed to say their Sunday Collect at this school, and answer

-questions on it. The school begins with a Hymn and Prayer, and finishes

-with the Lord’s Prayer and the Grace. The third class learn the Church

-Catechism, and the remainder of the school read from a small manual

-containing the first seven chapters of S. Matthew’s Gospel. The school

-lasts about an hour. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice

-service, and I Baptized the infant son of Thomas and Lily by name and

-special request--Penny. A. P. Huqe, Harry, and Agnes stood sponsors. The

-Font was very tastefully and prettily decorated by Arthur, and the

-service was very solemn.

-

-After Matins I assembled the Catechumens for instruction, and I told

-them that I wished everyone present fully to make up his or her mind to

-the dignity, the solemnity, and responsibility of what they were

-undertaking. They are the last unbaptized inhabitants of Tanrig, and of

-their own accord have pressed for Baptism. They number over twenty, and

-seem very much in earnest, especially the older men and women. It is

-most gratifying to me, and a matter for which I cannot sufficiently

-thank God, that just at the end of this era of my missionary life, I

-should see such zeal and earnestness exhibited by the people among whom

-I have worked so long, and apparently with so little result. I shall

-leave behind me here, please God, an entirely Christian village, in

-profession at least, and I trust in reality also. There are one or two I

-wanted to leave out, but they seem so anxious to be Baptized, that I

-leave their future with God and the blessing of His spirit, and accede

-to their request. We have here now, all the organizations of a Christian

-community, a good school, an excellent Church, and a zealous

-congregation. Surely one can labour on steadfast and unmoveable, seeing

-that one’s labour is not in vain in the Lord. At other stations also,

-people are crying out for Baptism, and before I leave, please God, I

-shall admit many into the Fold of Christ’s Flock.

-

-It was too wet to get about during the afternoon, but we had our usual

-social meal in the school-house, and in due course, Evensong. This was

-one of the heartiest and most inspiriting services I have ever known

-here, and the congregation felt the same, the singing, the responses and

-all, went with a swing and harmony which shewed that the people’s hearts

-were in it. I gave a discourse on the Gospel for the day, the story of

-the widow’s son at Nain, and likened them to the young man, and Christ

-coming and touching the bier and saying stop! to the powers of evil who

-were carrying them, dead in trespasses and sins, out to their burial.

-The young man sat up and began to speak, and our first act, when

-delivered from the wrath to come, should be to sit up and speak and

-declare God’s praises for all He has done for us in His dear Son our

-Saviour. We had singing afterwards, and then dispersed for the night. A

-great many of the congregation lingered outside, to wish me good-night.

-Thank God for these real days, how different to the old heathen times,

-when the people were still lying in the darkness and shadow of death.

-God grant that they may know Him and the power of His resurrection, and

-be filled with His fulness and grace.

-

-

-_Monday, October 11th_, was much finer, and the sun shone out in rich

-splendour. The people at this time of the year are very busy planting

-their yam gardens, and every day they are at work from morning until

-night. The men do the toiling part, the women the cooking. They work in

-parties, and many hands make light work. The harmonium being out of

-order I stayed to try and mend it. I was interrupted in the midst of my

-work by visitors from Tasmouri and Tasmate, and retired to my house to

-talk with them. When they left I finished my job, and was far more

-successful than ever I dared to hope. The bellows had burst, and the

-wind escaped in such quantities that it was hard to get any music at all

-out of the instrument. I could only make a patch up affair of it, but it

-was so far successful that a volume of sound was emitted such as I have

-never heard from it before, and the addition to the singing in the

-evening was very marked. I had intended to have made an excursion during

-the day, but it was too late when I had finished, and I had to content

-myself at home. After Evensong I took the Catechumens for a lesson, and

-afterwards joined my own class in the school previous to the Roll Call.

-The evening was fine, but blustery and raw, and I fancy the people were

-tired, for there was quietness soon after school.

-

-

-_Tuesday, October 12th._--Very rough, squally morning and a terribly

-windy night. Sometimes I fancied I was going to be blown over altogether

-in my frail native hut. However, these little tenements stand a great

-deal, and here I am safe and sound at the beginning of a new day.

-

-After early Morning Prayer we had our usual school, and breakfast

-followed. I have no refreshment before this meal, and sometimes I feel a

-little famished, but am generally ready for the breakfast when it comes.

-It is not a very sumptuous meal at the best of times, plain rice and a

-cup of coffee, but it does very well, and stops the craving of the

-appetite as well as anything else. The strange thing is that at home I

-scarcely ever touch rice, having a positive aversion to it, but here I

-make my breakfast on it nine mornings out of ten.

-

-After breakfast I had school with a very earnest Candidate for Baptism

-who comes from Mandurvat, and wished for special instruction. I hope I

-managed to explain to him any difficulties he has experienced in the

-nature and meaning of the service. When he was dismissed I wended my way

-with some of the boys to Ruosi, where I bathed and washed my clothes. I

-do not know what it was, but when I got home I was quite exhausted, and

-somehow I don’t feel as strong as I did at the beginning of the season.

-We had very hearty Evensong, and a nice class with the Catechumens, who,

-I think, are very much in earnest, especially the older men. There are

-about twenty in this class, the last remnant of the heathen population.

-With their Baptism, Tanrig will cease to have any remains of heathenism,

-and in name at least will be able to call itself Christian. The usual

-school was held, and the first two classes were engaged in solving the

-mysteries of simple addition, one of the girls succeeding in doing a six

-line sum without a fault. This same girl, Emily by name, is rather a

-creditable production for this out of the world place. She reads well,

-answers well, and writes well, besides being quite an adept at figures.

-A couple of years at Norfolk Island would make a very useful woman of

-her. There are seven others in her class who all are very fair scholars,

-and take their turn at teaching.

-

-

-_Wednesday, October 13th._--Very fine morning and very warm. After our

-morning duties were over there was soon a dead silence over the village,

-the people all going off to their several occupations in their gardens.

-I busied myself, and got very hot over a little simple carpentering--but

-oh! the tools, they were so blunt and so rusty. However, I managed to do

-fairly well what I wanted to do, viz. to enlarge the Communion table,

-and generally to give a more Churchy appearance to the East end of our

-Church. I proposed to myself a bathe after my labours were over, but I

-was too exhausted, and stayed at home in preference. However, the shades

-of evening soon stole on, and my little cooks came to get my dinner,

-which, frugal as it was, I enjoyed with the best of sauce--hunger. The

-evening was calm and fine, and I sat outside my house and enjoyed myself

-with a book. In the evening they came to tell me of the death of a poor

-heathen woman who has lately come here, and has been for years past a

-confirmed invalid. Poor thing! the women came back in the evening to

-find her cold and stiff in death, without a soul near her to say a word

-of comfort or to close her eyes in dying. She was buried in the

-moonlight, and her memory consigned to oblivion with her body. Her sad

-story afforded me a fitting text for the Catechumens afterwards, which I

-trust was not unproductive of seasonable lessons and wholesome and

-solemn warnings. Our singing school subsequently was very nice, after

-which everyone seemed glad to turn in for the night.

-

-

-_Thursday, October 14th._--Fine bright morning, and a most beautiful day

-with a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties I was left

-alone, the people being away almost at once to their gardens. They work

-very hard at this season, and the men do the heaviest part of the

-labour. At present they are engaged in fence making, usually here with

-bamboos, and very neatly they make them. It is very hot, fatiguing work

-for them in the broiling sun, but I suppose habit has so far become

-second nature with them, that they don’t seem to notice the heat or mind

-a little extra perspiration. The cool waters of the river always afford

-a grateful and refreshing anticipation when the work is once over.

-

-I amused myself with making a Cross to surmount the Communion table, and

-give a little more of a sacred nature to the Chancel of the Church. With

-my poor tools and limited necessaries at my disposal I flattered myself

-that I had done fairly well, and I afterwards attempted a picture

-gallery on the walls of my house, which has attracted all the boys in

-the village this evening, and they have taken more interest in these

-pictures than ever I have seen them before display. The launching of a

-life boat, and the English Bishops have been the chief attractions, and

-everyone, I think, has counted over the Bishops dozens of times. There

-being no one here in the afternoon I went alone to the river and enjoyed

-a refreshing bath. This evening it is blowing heavily, but there is a

-good moon and it is fine overhead. Instruction to the Catechumens, and

-the evening school finished a nice day.

-

-

-_Friday, October 15th._--After our morning duties here and breakfast I

-started with a party of four for Tasmouri. It had rained a little

-during the night, and the bush was still wet this morning. The sun,

-however, shone out in Tropical brilliancy, and travelling was very

-unpleasant. The hottest time is just after a shower, and to-day proved

-no exception to the native idea on the subject. I don’t know when I have

-felt so hot and disinclined for exertion. However, the journey had to be

-made, and on I went somewhat mechanically. We arrived in due course at a

-rippling brook which the natives call “Na Marou,” and here we refreshed

-ourselves with its cooling waters and quaffed away our thirst. We

-rested, too, awhile, and then shouldering our impedimenta on we trudged

-again. The dense bush afforded a grateful shade generally, but every now

-and then we came out into the open glade, and we felt by experience for

-how much we were indebted to the shelter from the sun’s rays. Our next

-resting place was “Qaruqatu,” and then we were in a very liquid

-condition, and could gladly have lain down and given up further exertion

-for the day, but we were not half-way to our destination yet, and when

-we had cooled a bit we moved on to the village, where we found the “Uta”

-natives awaiting our arrival. They had prepared food for us and procured

-a good supply of coconuts, and we stopped for some time with them.

-However, the day was hastening on to-night, and we were driven to move

-on when we would willingly have sat on in idleness and inactivity. We

-started again for “Vanua garaqa” where the school house is, and there I

-found my friend and teacher “Takele,” whom I was going to Baptize on

-Sunday, and with whom I was anxious to have some previous conversation.

-He is a good man, and a staunch, and “Uta” owes him a great deal for his

-steadfast and consistent upholding of the Truth, and his fearless and

-bold protestations against evil. He had also food and coconuts ready for

-us, and I am afraid I went to sleep for a while, as the boys were

-refreshing the inner man. However, we were not yet at our journey’s end,

-and shouldering our traps, on we went again.

-

-After leaving Uta there is a very steep descent, really down the face of

-the cliff, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward.

-The road, however, is good, if somewhat precipitous, and my poor long

-shins ached again before I got to the bottom. Yet we did get to the

-bottom, and there we found a most lovely natural bathing place, the

-delight and comfort of which we were not long in testing. One can

-imagine how refreshing it must inevitably be to get off one’s dripping

-garments, and get under a cool and delicious shower-bath. I felt much

-more “fit” when I got on my walking garments again and prepared for

-another advance towards Tasmouri, which I must say has never seemed so

-far and the journey towards it so fatiguing. We found Samuel and the

-Tasmouri people waiting from the village, and of course had food and

-drink in readiness for us. It was very cool and nice there, and being

-now near our destination we were not in a great hurry to move. Tasmouri,

-however, was reached towards evening, but oh! how hot the place is! a

-change of raiment scarcely mended matters, and I was soon almost as

-liquid as before. My evening meal made matters worse, and didn’t I long

-for a little grateful coolness? However, that seems an unknown quantity,

-and I gave up the idea of discovering it more here than anywhere else.

-Evensong followed in due course, and afterwards I had the Catechumen

-class for a short instruction. When these duties were over I was fit for

-bed, and this is the reason of the shortness and scantiness of my

-account of this day.

-

-

-_Saturday, October 16th._--At Tasmouri. Most beautiful morning, but oh!

-so hot. Within doors it was absolutely unbearable, and I was glad when

-the people proposed to go to the seaside. The place selected was

-“Ro[¨n]onawo,” and there it was bearably cool. A “Guardian” supplied me

-with companionship, and it proved to be so pleasant there that we spent

-most of the day, the boys bathing, fishing, and generally enjoying life,

-and I reading and seeking new names for the Baptismal Candidates. The

-heat again in the evening when we came home was very oppressive, and so

-great had it been in the house during the day that my candle I found all

-melted and doubled down in the candlestick.

-

-My dinner did not mend matters, but rather made the heat the hotter. I

-could not get cool for the life of me, and I had to grin and bear the

-discomfort. I do not know a much hotter place than Tasmouri and trust I

-never may, the wonder is how people live there at all. The fact I

-suppose is that the natives live very little within doors except at

-night, but during the day are engaged in their gardens, or otherwise

-enjoying the free and easy life to which they are the heirs by nature.

-It was intensely hot at Evensong, and oh! how one sighed for relief! An

-interesting Class with the Catechumens finished a pleasant day, on the

-whole, in spite of the heat. While we were at Evensong, and even while

-praying for her, one of the Christian young women, by name “Nesta,” was

-given a happy issue out of all her afflictions. She has been lying in a

-state ‘twixt life and death for more than two months, and died this

-evening. She was one of the first baptized here, and a nice, clever girl

-she was, and a great favourite. The people asked me to bury her

-to-night, and I consented. About midnight the grave was finished, and I

-went with the people to the graveside. A weird, but picturesque scene it

-was, the moon in full splendour high up in the heavens, the blazing

-native torches casting a lurid glare upon the quiet figure of the dead,

-resting in her final bed and wrapped in native mats, the husband

-seemingly heart-broken, wailing beside the open grave, the women sobbing

-all around, myself with a lantern and vested in a surplice at the head

-of the grave, and the people all subdued and solemn around. I read the

-Burial Service, and when I came to “earth to earth,” “ashes to ashes,”

-“dust to dust,” Samuel threw on the earth according to custom, and at

-the end of the service we sang a funeral hymn, which sounded very solemn

-in the strange stillness of the night. I gave an address to the people,

-and words never seem to me more appropriate, and apposite than on this

-occasion. When I had finished my part of the service I came away, and

-left the grave diggers to their unenviable duty.

-

-

-_Sunday, October 17th._--Most glorious morning and meltingly hot. We had

-school before breakfast, and I took a class of adult women. I was quite

-surprised at their readiness in the Church Catechism, which they said by

-heart from beginning to end. The Collect also they had got by heart and

-read with great facility. With the proficiency of the school generally I

-was amply satisfied, and teaching has evidently not been thrown away on

-the majority of the scholars. After breakfast we had Prayers, and the

-discomfort of the heat was not lessened by the hateful buzz and presence

-of the blue bottles. The service was hearty and comforting, however, and

-I asked the Catechumens to stay afterwards.

-

-With them I had a nice class, and was satisfied that they were in

-earnest. One man who has two wives, and has long held out against

-Baptism, has now given in and put away one of his wives. It is a

-peculiarly hard case, as he has children by both, and the women have

-both lived with him for a great number of years. Both offered to go, and

-gave him his free choice as to the one he chose to retain and which to

-banish. He chose the elder of the two, his first wife, and the other

-consequently left, but I could not help being sorry for them all, and at

-the earnest supplication of the divorced wife I admitted her and her

-young child to Holy Baptism. It was no inconsiderable pang to the

-husband to relinquish his second wife, and I could see that the

-sacrifice both he and she were making had cost them a great deal of

-suffering, but the rule is hard and fast, and I could not go beyond our

-invariable practice to admit a man with one wife only to the Rites of

-our Holy Church.

-

-In the evening I Baptized seventeen people of all sizes, ages, and

-sexes, and Tasmouri now lays claim to the proud title of being the first

-entirely Christian village in Maewo. It has not now a single heathen

-member, and I thank God and take courage from the success which His Word

-has had here through His Grace, and to Him alone be the honour and

-glory.

-

-After the Baptism, and at the end of Evensong, I gave an address, and

-was listened to with marked attention, and I pray God my words may not

-have been spoken in vain. It was indeed to me an occasion of rejoicing

-in the Spirit, and I do not think I shall soon forget the reality and

-heartiness of that service. As I sat here in my house afterwards, all

-the newly Baptized came to bid me good-night, and the woman and child

-who were going into new quarters were not among the last or the least

-grateful for the events of the evening, for their present loss will be

-their eternal gain, and to have Jesus as Friend and Husband must

-compensate any one, with a grain of mustard-seed faith in their hearts,

-for the loss of husband and earthly father. None the less I could not

-help feeling sorry for the pretty, gentle creature who will begin

-henceforth a new and different life--this, of course, humanly speaking.

-I was very tired when the day was over, and everyone seemed glad that

-resting time had come.

-

-

-_Monday, October 18th._--Fine, indeed glorious day, but consequently

-very hot. According to standing custom here, I gave a whole holiday to

-the school and, we went for our usual picnic. The fatted pig was killed,

-and we all proceeded to Ro[¨n]onawo to prepare it for dinner. The women

-did the cooking, the men lending ready and very efficient aid in getting

-and cutting firewood, &c. A book gave me employment throughout the day,

-and there was a good deal to interest one going on. The scene was far

-from being unanimated and devoid of interest, and the day soon hastened

-on to its termination and natural darkness. The ovens were opened in due

-course, and disgorged their plentiful contents. After grace the food was

-distributed, and before long we were wending our way homewards.

-

-After Evensong a request was brought me that the people might have a

-dance, and of course I consented. There was not a very numerous company

-of dancers, but they kept up their energy for an hour or two in a

-manner in which I should be very sorry to imitate them, and the result

-may be imagined in a place where the smallest movement throws you into a

-bath of perspiration. This evening appeared those mysterious things like

-seaworms. They only come about one night in the year, but the people not

-only know the very night of their appearance, but almost the very hour.

-When they are expecting them they get ready a peculiar kind of deep

-basket with a wide mouth, and long cane torches, and when these worms of

-the sea are observed, the people shovel them by handsful into their

-baskets, and great quantities are in this way taken. They are of course

-esteemed a great delicacy, and by cooking and re-cooking, they are kept

-for a very long time as an accompaniment to their different kinds of

-food. Their flavour is somewhat peculiar, but by no means disagreeable,

-and I can quite understand a native esteeming them a delicacy. Their

-wormy nature, I am afraid, gives me a false sentiment against their

-niceness. Considerable numbers were secured this evening, but the “haul”

-was said not to be a very successful one.

-

-

-_Tuesday, October 19th._--This morning we were early astir and getting

-ready for our homeward journey. We had Prayers and school and then

-breakfast, after which we put our traps together and prepared to start.

-The boat was coming for me, so that our first journey was to Tasmate,

-and no joke at that, hot as it was. However, we got there finally, and

-before the boat. It was very warm walking, and I was very liquid again

-by the time Tasmate was reached. While we were there waiting for the

-boat a big steamer passed Southwards. She had not the appearance of a

-man-of-war, but was too large to be down this way for no purpose. She

-was steaming fast and well, but looked to be rather battered and

-dilapidated. She appeared to have come from Fiji or from somewhere in

-that direction. Later on we saw her again up the coast, whither perhaps

-she may have gone for water. Our row homewards was terrible--the heat

-was simply awful and pelted down upon us piteously without a breath of

-wind. However, we got to our boat cove eventually, and hauled up our

-boat, and then, as night was drawing nigh, we prepared to start at once

-for Tanrig. We had scarcely got off before we were caught in a heavy

-thunderstorm, and the rain came down in torrents. The roads, always bad,

-were now fearful, and having a good deal of water before us to wade

-through I had taken off my shoes and socks. My feet were very sore when

-I got to Ruosi, where, in spite of present dripping condition, we all

-bathed, and we got home like drowned rats, to find that very little rain

-had fallen here. After tea and Evensong I was ready for bed, being very

-tired and foot-sore.

-

-

-_Wednesday, October 20th._--I was very glad of a good excuse for a

-thoroughly quiet day, and this was given me in a perfect downpour of

-rain, which continued without cessation until past midday, and I could

-not possibly get out. It cleared, however, in the evening, and I got out

-to church and to my Catechumen class, after which we had our usual

-secular singing. These Wednesday evenings are certainly looked forward

-to, but they do not satisfy me that much is taught by them. The people

-are very slow at picking up new things, and except occasionally are far

-from enthusiastic about the performance, yet I suppose they enjoy it or

-they would not attend in such numbers. I was perfectly inundated

-afterwards by people coming to wish me good-night. Shaking hands has

-become quite an institution here now, and you cannot meet or quit anyone

-except the process of hand grasping be gone through. However, it is a

-good step to the right direction and I give so much encouragement to it

-that my own arm runs the risk often of being wrung off.

-

-

-_Thursday, October 21st._--Busy here all the morning, and having got

-very hot and tired with what I was doing, I came to get my towel to go

-for a bathe, when lo and behold, down came the rain in a perfect

-torrent, and I had to swallow my disappointment and stay at home.

-However, I started again at my picture gallery, and got a good deal

-done. I must try and finish it at some future time. It is a source of

-immense diversion to not a few, and some of the boys are never tired of

-coming to find out what the pictures mean. I was not very well all day,

-and after the Catechumen Class was very glad to retire for the night.

-

-

-_Friday, October 22nd._--Was very sick all the morning, and went to

-Ruosi to try and drown my cares in the river, but was only partially

-successful. Came back appetiteless to an uninviting dinner, and did not

-feel equal to much during the evening.

-

-

-_Saturday, October 23rd._--Very busy all day with preparations for

-to-morrow. Anthony came to make final arrangements about his Candidates.

-Determined to go to “Naruru” for the ceremony. Was not well all day, and

-everything seemed a business. Final class with Catechumens.

-

-

-_Sunday, October 24th._--A very full but an exceptionally joyous day. We

-had school before breakfast, but that meal followed directly after. Then

-came Mattins. Then, followed by all the male population of Tanrig, I

-went to Naruru. The house there being very small I determined to have

-the Baptism out of doors. I would have gone to the river-side but it was

-too far. While Anthony and the others were getting ready the place and

-the Font, I said a few final words to the Candidates, who were already

-well prepared. Anthony’s wife was among the number, and a fine,

-intelligent young woman she is. There were nine Candidates in all, and

-the service was a very solemn and impressive one. It was the first time

-I had ever Baptized anyone in the open air, but a great deal of

-solemnity was not lost by it. The whole service went very nicely, and I

-hope the Candidates were fully alive to the importance and dignity of

-the occasion. When it was over I said a few words to the Congregation

-and Baptized, and soon after we hastened home, having another Baptism at

-Tanrig. During my absence A. P. Huqe had made a most chastely pretty

-Font, and brightened up the Church with flowers, &c., until it looked

-quite charming. The Baptism took place in the evening, and seeing that

-there were as many as twenty-eight Candidates it was not a short

-service. It passed off very nicely, and I think made a great impression.

-I preached afterwards, and told them that this would be my final Baptism

-for some time to come, and urged them all to remember their Baptismal

-vows and to try and live more and more up to them, by the grace of God.

-Tanrig is now a Christian village, and the number Baptized here is

-considerably over a hundred. There are suburbs, however, which are still

-lying in comparative heathen darkness, and these we shall now have time,

-please God, to attack. There is much rejoicing here to-day, and a fresh

-start has again been made. I have Baptized thirty-seven people to-day,

-and I thank God and take courage.

-

-

-_Monday, October 25th._--General holiday, and great Christening Feast at

-Ruosi. All the world turned out from here, and we were joined by many

-from Naruru. Four large pigs were slaughtered, and a prodigious quantity

-of yams and taro prepared. It was a most lovely day, and the sunshine

-overhead seemed to have found its way into every heart, for there was

-the greatest harmony and good will manifest on all sides. Men and women

-shared the burden of the day alike, and the result in the evening was a

-most grand spread of perfectly cooked food, more than sufficient for

-all the great number present. All shared alike, and the females had

-great junks of pork as well as the men. Formerly the women ate very

-little animal food, but now Christianity has broken down the middle wall

-of partition, and taught them that all are One in Christ. We came home

-in the evening, and dinnerless I had to go to bed with an attack of ague

-which lasted me far on into the hours of midnight. I did not go to

-Prayers, and indeed I don’t know what happened. There was a dance, I

-believe, but I didn’t hear anything of it.

-

-

-_Tuesday, October 26th._--Very weak and seedy all day--did not go out

-anywhere. However, I had lots of little things to do here at home, and I

-busied myself over them. Visitors from Uta came in the evening. The

-people told me they wanted to take away one of our women whose husband

-is just dead, but I refused and told them they had women enough already.

-They were very frightened I believe, and I don’t care, I trust they

-were, for I meant what I said. They are quite enough as they are to live

-and die in heathen darkness, while here the poor woman will have a

-chance at all events of hearing and living.

-

-

-_Wednesday, October 27th._--Beautiful day, but I was not particularly

-well to enjoy it. I was up betimes though, and got through our morning

-duties before breakfast.

-

-Perhaps this is not a wise plan, but it is more convenient and therefore

-I submit to it. You certainly get leisure and quiet afterwards, which

-one would fail to secure previously to Prayers and school. I like to

-give the people every opportunity of getting away early to their

-gardens, and therefore, perhaps, I sacrifice myself. Many people could

-not stand this going without breakfast so long, but it is a meal I was

-never very hearty at, and the want of which very strangely I feel the

-least.

-

-Our “Bush” friends brought down some prints for sale this morning, and

-there has been a tremendous competition for them. There were six yards

-of Turkey red handkerchief stuff, which were finally bought by a young

-married lady, “Ann,” for a large pig. The Bushmen still go

-“clothesless,” and returned Labourers find a ready market here for their

-linen goods, which they bring home from Queensland or Fiji. Pigs are of

-much more value to them, for of course they still keep up the old native

-custom of purchasing rank by means of these animals, while here now they

-are only looked upon as so much meat. I have been long trying to get a

-proper hold on these people, but I cannot flatter myself that I have yet

-succeeded very far. They live a long distance off, and the road is very

-inaccessible, but I trust in time they may be reached from hence. They

-are very amiable and very friendly, but they are somewhat terrified at

-anything new. However, they come here very often, and I don’t think they

-go away unprofited.

-

-

-_Thursday, October 28th._--Fine day with strong fresh Trade wind

-blowing. I was busy all day here at home doing little odds and ends of

-things preparatory to my anticipated visit from Mrs. Selwyn. The people

-were all away busy at their gardens, and I was left alone most of the

-day. I could not find time to get to Ruosi, so I went without my

-customary dip in the river.

-

-The people were all back in the evening, and their lively chatter and

-merriment were a pleasing contrast to the ghostly stillness which had

-reigned throughout the day. We had Prayers late because the people were

-late with their dinner.

-

-

-_Friday, October 29th._--Not a very fine day, and threatening for rain.

-Directly after school the people were away to their gardens, but three

-or four boys were working for me here. They felt the slight shock of an

-earthquake, but I did not perceive it. The undivided opinion here is

-that earthquakes are the precursors of rain, and often indeed I have

-known it so to result, but it seems rather an extraordinary law to lay

-down. However, there are abundant signs of a no very distant downpour,

-and the prophets may have a chance of being right in their present

-conjecture. We were very busy all day, but towards evening snatched time

-enough to go to Ruosi for a bathe. The rain kept off well, but there was

-a sprinkle in the evening, and evident signs of a great deal more before

-very long. I have felt the heat here very oppressive for the last few

-days, and by the appearance of the sky we must soon have some dirty

-weather with thunder.

-

-

-_Saturday, October 30th._--The storm came on us with a vengeance this

-morning at daylight, and kept on for a long time. At times the flashes

-and thunder peals seemed simultaneous, and the crashes were peculiarly

-heavy. I have never known a more severe storm in the Tropics, and as for

-the rain it simply poured down in torrents.

-

-I did not get up till late, and Mattins were later than usual. However,

-being a holiday it did not so much matter. In my house it was as dark as

-night, and all day it has been very sombre and dull. Rain has kept on

-continuously all the time, and it has been impossible to move out. The

-people, however, in spite of wet and dirt are up and about, and do not

-seem to mind the weather. Many here, indeed, prefer the rain to the sun

-for making journeys and doing certain works. Rain does not seem to give

-them cold or ague, and I suppose that custom has become second nature.

-

-I could not get out all day except to my duties, and these wet days at

-home are somewhat trying, especially when you are anxious to be about.

-It was somewhat finer in the evening at Prayer time, and we had a good

-congregation, but it did pour down while we were at service, and this

-gave us a good excuse for a long singing practice.

-

-

-_Sunday, October 31st._--Another wet and intensely disagreeable day.

-However, there were spells of fine weather, and during those we

-performed our duties. School came first with a full house, the elder

-classes saying the Collect for the day and the Church Catechism, and

-answering questions on the former, the juniors reading from school books

-and large printed sheets. When school was over I was quite prepared for

-breakfast, and eschewed rice for once in a way for prawns which the boys

-brought me. Sometime after breakfast we had Mattins, a very nice service

-and especially well attended. I experienced much distress of mind from

-the illness of my friend “Virelumlum,” the Opa chief who came over with

-me. He has been very ill all day with acute inflammation of the lungs,

-and we have had to keep hot water applications going, off and on, all

-day. He moans for home, too, and there is no chance of getting him

-there. While at Opa, A. P. Huqe was so ill, and here now I have my other

-visitor a patient on my hands. In the evening I was down myself with

-ague and could not go to Church, and had no dinner.

-

-

-_Monday, November 1st._--Terribly stormy, rough night, and a most

-unpleasant day, the disagreeableness of which was not decreased by the

-continued serious illness of my visitor Virelumlum. All day yesterday

-and again to-day it has been a continual anxiety and care to me, and I

-have been dabbling about in the mud and wet dancing attendance upon him.

-He has quite a serious attack of inflammation of the lungs, and I have

-had to keep hot flannels going almost continuously, and rack my brains

-to find out what to give him to keep up his rapidly decreasing strength.

-In addition to his sickness he has developed a craving for home, and a

-strong impression that he is going to die here, which with natives

-sometimes is actually equivalent to mean that they will not recover, and

-when a native makes up his mind to die, he in most cases does die. There

-is no remote possibility of getting my friend home in such weather as

-we are having, and he is killing himself with worry. If the weather were

-fine I would willingly take him across to Opa in my boat, but that is

-scarcely possible in a gale of wind and a downpour of rain. On the whole

-it has been a most anxious and unpleasant day. Being “All Saints’” Day I

-gave an address in the evening instead of School, and no one, I fancy,

-was sorry to be indoors out of the cold and wet. I had to paddle off

-after every one was quietly within doors to feed my patient and make him

-comfortable for the night.

-

-

-_Tuesday, November 2nd._--A most terrible night, wherein it blew with

-almost hurricane violence in the squalls, with a perfect deluge of rain

-accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning. I was not sorry or

-ungrateful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. My

-first business when I got up, was to trudge off to my patient, whom,

-thank God, I found better, but all day long since I have had to look

-after him, for he is no exception to the idiocy of all natives, who when

-they feel a bit better, rush off and do some extraordinarily foolish

-thing. It was a terrible day throughout, and I was so fortunate in

-keeping my man within doors, that this evening he was visibly on the

-mend, and likely to make a good and I hope a rapid recovery. I read him

-a most strong lecture this morning about his craving for home, and told

-him he could not possibly get there in this weather, and that he was

-better where he was even if he could. I said he never would recover if

-he went on distressing himself about getting home, and told him that he

-was killing me too, by continually crying for what he could not possibly

-obtain. And what a lot of spilt milk I have cried over these last few

-days in my regret at having brought a big man here at all. But the

-inutility of weeping is more apparent to me than his crying for home is

-to him. I can hardly say what I have done to-day either to benefit

-anyone else or myself. This evening I have turned away from my dinner,

-leaving it untasted, and I feel that I must go to bed.

-

-

-_Wednesday, November 3rd._--An attack of ague last night has made me

-feel weak and good for nothing this morning. However, I had to get up,

-and the prospect outside was as dismal as ever. Rain and wind and

-gloominess. My patient, thank God, is most decidedly better, and if he

-takes care of himself will do very well now. I have had a fire in my

-house all day, and with Dr. Codrington’s book on the Melanesian

-languages, have got on very pleasantly. I should like, however, to see a

-little sunshine, and one has a right to expect it now in the height of

-summer. I am dreadfully afraid Mrs. Selwyn’s visit to me will be

-impossible, when the ship arrives the roads will be so impassable.

-Towards evening it cleared a bit and I was able to move out, but

-generally speaking, everyone has been kept close prisoner to-day. The

-people who always seem to me to love paddling about in the wet,

-expressed a strong disinclination to move from their houses, and in the

-absence of other occupation or amusement, have been asleep most of the

-day I fancy. A native’s capacity for sleep is unbounded, and perhaps a

-fortunate thing for him, but he can wake at any time, day or night, and

-get up straight away. We had our usual Evensong and singing class, the

-weather keeping fairer until we had all got indoors again in our several

-houses, when down came the rain. There is a sweet, lulling, comfortable

-sound in rain when you are safe indoors, or perchance in bed, and sleep

-seems to come unwooed. I practice here what I seldom do anywhere else,

-read in bed, and far on in the stillness of the solemn night, I read on

-and on with keen enjoyment and a sense of rest, for one gets tired of

-sitting in a land devoid of easy chairs and sofas. The usual posture of

-a native is to squat on his heels or else to recline, naturally our high

-seats are foreign and uncanny to them. I cannot myself squat for any

-length of time, and at times I sigh for the comfort of a good easy

-chair.

-

-

-_Thursday, November 4th._--Very wet, dispiriting morning, and

-threatening for another stormy day. It cleared off, however, and barring

-showers we have had a fine day.

-

-A most interesting ceremony took place here to-day called “uli meroana,”

-(_i.e._ “untieing war.”) The event ought to have come off long ago, but

-the chief actors in the sad drama which led to its necessity have been

-somewhat dilatory. Sometime since the natives of “uta” (the inland as

-distinguished from the shore) attacked a village in our district and

-killed three people. They were the agressors and the sole actors--the

-people did nothing but pack up their goods and clear out, some flying in

-one direction and some in another. The majority took refuge in this part

-of the island and have never done anything in the way of retaliation,

-but have always gone armed since and been on the alert, not with the

-object of revenging their injuries, but from fear of further attack.

-

-However, thank God, all has been quiet since, and the Uta people have

-the fire coals so heavily heaped on their head, that being first in

-agression they have been the first to make amends. They came down

-yesterday in great numbers, all armed, of course, and bringing three

-pigs with them. Our people were all present too, very fully armed, and

-also bringing three pigs. The chief man on the Uta side and the attacker

-stood out in the open with his pig, and the chief among the injured

-stepped out, and walking around the pig took it from the other, first

-passing his hand over the pig’s back and head and the rope he was held

-with, and then delivering the scape pig to the injured. This was done

-thrice, _i.e._ with each several pig. Then the ceremony was changed to

-our side and the like performance gone through, and the pigs delivered

-one by one to the attackers. There was thus a mutual exchange and no one

-was the loser, indeed so far from it that had the pigs been made for the

-occasion and cast in the same mould, they could scarcely have been more

-of a size, shape, and colour. It would seem, according to our ideas, as

-if the aggressors ought to have paid all the pigs without receiving any

-in exchange, but no, native custom seems to be different, and a fair

-exchange must be made. After the pigs had been delivered, there was some

-speechifying and a good deal of after talkey-talkey, and the quondam

-enemies became the best of friends. I hope they will continue so, I am

-sure, and I think they will. I made a little speech, in which I

-glorified peace and good-will, and denounced fighting and bloodshed. I

-have never seen such a concourse of people in Maewo, certainly, and the

-place perfectly bristled with guns and poisoned arrows. The natives,

-although they seem somewhat careless with these weapons, are really very

-careful, and an accident seldom or never happens through carelessness. I

-do not like the poisoned arrows, and keep clear always of them, for the

-smallest prod from one would most probably prove fatal. Very soon the

-vast concourse had dispersed, and the pigs, the mediators, were escorted

-off to their new places of residence, but I do not fancy they felt the

-weight of the aggressor’s repentance, or the forgiveness of the

-attacked. A small coal of inward anger would very soon kindle again the

-blaze of war, for after all I fancy there is not much love lost between

-the two parties. With one of my Opa boys I came back here to get my

-towels, and then made a start for Ruosi and Kerepei, being anxious to

-bathe, and also to see the road the boys have made for Mrs. Selwyn’s

-feet to tread in. I must say after my observation of it, that if her

-anticipated visits everywhere have the same effect of causing people to

-mend their ways, she may well be satisfied with her trip down here. The

-road was not good before, neither is it perfect now, but the boys have

-certainly made a most passable track, the question is whether a lady

-can manage the first steep climb. In anticipation of this, they have

-strained a strong climbing reed, like the rail of a balustrade, and by

-this it is hoped she may be able to ascend. The road otherwise is now

-very good. A delicious bath at Ruosi was made doubly delicious by some

-days’ privation, and my present liquid condition.

-

-We got home here in the evening, and I dined very late, but with much

-more of an appetite than I have had for some time. In the evening A. P.

-Huqe being laid up, I gave an address at Evensong, instead of school.

-

-

-_Friday, November 5th._--The glorious 5th November, Guy Fawkes, of

-unhappy memory! Very wet night, but fairly fine day. People very busy

-to-day, so they asked me to relinquish school, which I did. I made

-preparations for photographing a pretty part of the river, but the rain

-came down and I had to give it up. However, my dry plates are at an end,

-and the few I have left I must keep for a peradventure of something good

-before I leave.

-

-

-_Saturday, November 6th._--Squally, unsettled sort of day, after a very

-rough night. Great preparations were being made here in the morning, for

-the Bishop’s and Mrs. Selwyn’s advent. When it was done I went with the

-boys to Ruosi, where I sat and watched their sports and gambols in the

-water, and thought how the one touch of nature makes the whole world

-kin. Human nature and boy nature is the same everywhere, and these boys

-are just like every other boy except in colour. They had a great spur of

-fun and frolic, and boy-like pleasure produced no languor or

-tediousness. I made a descent to “Wosawosa,” and looked in vain for the

-ship.

-

-Back and dined, and everything as usual.

-

-

-_Sunday, November 7th._--The Mission schooner arrived with all on board

-well. After Morning Prayer I went down to the vessel, but it was too

-dirty for Mrs. Selwyn to come up to the village, but in the evening Mr.

-Cullwick came back to Tanrig and spent the night with me. The account of

-the work in the islands farther North, was very cheering, and it had a

-fresh and charming meaning, as told by Mrs. Selwyn in the full

-enthusiasm of her first voyage into these new but beautiful regions. The

-evening services in our little native Church was a sad and solemn one,

-for I said my public farewell to the people, in prospect of my leaving

-them for a long time, inasmuch as it was decided for me to go to

-England. Mr. Cullwick was very much struck with the beauty of the

-service, and the devotion of the worshippers. When we bid them “Good

-night” they all said, “Ah! this will be the last good night for a long,

-long time.”

-

-

-_Monday, November 8th._--The Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn came to stay with me

-at Tanrig. It was fortunately a most beautiful day, and Mrs. Selwyn,

-partly carried and partly on foot, made the journey without any great

-fatigue. Of her visit, she herself no doubt will write.

-

-

-_Tuesday, November 9th._--We stood across to Opa, distant about

-twenty-five miles from this part of Maewo. The people were in floods of

-tears at the final parting, and a general wail went up from all, as the

-boat drew off from the shore. At Opa we anchored for the night.

-

-

-_Wednesday, November 10th._--The Bishop and I were rowed ashore early,

-and examined the school at Lotahimamavi. This is as yet in embryo, but

-the people were very nice and most friendly, and seemed quite in earnest

-about their school duties. A proper school house has yet to be built,

-but this they have undertaken to do as soon as they have dug their yams.

-Their yam digging answers to our harvest. Leaving this place we went on

-board the _Southern Cross_ to breakfast, and afterwards to examine the

-school at Tavolavola. The Bishop was much pleased with the state of this

-school, and the great proficiency attained to by some of the young

-scholars. Prizes of knives, calico, beads, fish-hooks, &c., were

-distributed and then we went to Lobaha, another school. Before leaving

-Tavolavola, Mrs. Selwyn was anxious to see how the natives got up the

-coconut trees. There are no branches of course, to hold on to, and many

-natives tie a cord around their feet, and some use an ingenious

-arrangement with cord for their hands. But these natives go up hand over

-hand without any help or assistance. The lad in question was up the

-tree, had thrown down green coconuts, and descended again with wonderful

-and astonishing rapidity, with nothing on his hands or feet.

-

-Before we got to Lobaha it began to rain heavily, and I was overtaken

-with a fit of ague, and had to lie shivering on the beach while the

-Bishop went alone to examine the school. It poured in torrents all the

-way home, and I was very miserable.

-

-

-_Thursday, November 11th._--Away early from Opa and started for Araga,

-distant over twenty miles from this part of Opa. There the school was

-examined, and we left in the evening for the South end of the island.

-This we reached on

-

-

-_Friday, November 12th_, the Bishop going ashore in a strong gale of

-wind, and in pelting rain, to examine the school and bring off Mr.

-Brittain, who had been spending some days there. They were not long

-before both were on board, and Mr. Brittain, thank God, quite well.

-

-When the boat was hauled up we stood out to sea, and so on our homeward

-journey for Norfolk Island, which we reached after a stormy but quick

-passage on November 18th, and found all well at home. “Praise thou the

-Lord Oh! my soul, and forget not all His benefits.”

-

-

-

-

-                           REV. A. BRITTAIN.

-

-

-For the year 1886 my contribution will be concerned with the time

-between April 3rd and November 18th. On the former date the _Southern

-Cross_ left Norfolk Island on the first trip of the year, and on the

-latter we reached it again at the end of our voyaging season. I had

-never before left for the islands on the first voyage, but our plans

-gave me a longer stay than usual. My own island, Araga, was to take up

-the usual time, but I was to make a stay also in the Bank’s Islands,

-which would be out of the ordinary course. As it turned out, however,

-the arrangements were of necessity altered, and no stay was made in the

-Bank’s Islands.

-

-The _Southern Cross_ left Norfolk Island with a wind very strong, but

-altogether fair. None of the regular Araga boys were on board, as they

-were to return home on the second voyage, according to our plan. One

-lad, however, we had with us, whose presence in the _Southern Cross_ was

-quite out of the ordinary course. The explanation concerning him will

-show something of the individual efforts made in various places to give

-some sort of instruction to those who are taken from our islands to work

-on the plantations and elsewhere. On the whole they are simply

-neglected, with the result that they return home having learnt almost

-all the vices, and none whatever of the virtues, of the white man.

-Personal interest has in some cases induced thought and work for their

-benefit. In Sydney was one instance of this. The visit of a young lady

-to Norfolk Island on the occasion of the Consecration of the Memorial

-Chapel increased her interest in the Mission, and on her return to

-Sydney she sought some kindred work. A class was established for natives

-from the islands engaged in different kinds of work in the city, and it

-has proved most successful. Several of the lads are from our own

-islands, and as it has happened that the Bishop has been in Sydney at

-convenient times, he has twice held Baptisms of members of the Class.

-One of these Baptized lads made a request that he might be taken home

-in the _Southern Cross_. His home was Araga, and he came to Norfolk

-Island in readiness for the first voyage of the _Southern Cross_. It was

-apparently five or six years since he had been taken away in a labour

-vessel to Noumea, whence he had found it possible to make a move to

-Sydney. And this was the end of his life in foreign countries--he was

-returning home a Christian, with, in some respects, a surprising

-knowledge, with a perfectly good character from all who knew him, and

-with a great desire to do something for the benefit of his

-fellow-countrymen. All that had hitherto been done in Araga is in the

-northern part of the island, the remainder of the island being partially

-known only, while the extreme southern end was quite unknown and

-inaccessible. The lad, Thomas Rorsal, gave us to understand that his

-village was right in the south, close to the neighbouring island of

-Ambrym, and we had then the prospect of breaking into new parts.

-

-On April 8th, that is on the fifth day from Norfolk Island, we were in

-the passage between Araga and Ambrym. A boat was lowered, Tom’s

-belongings placed in it, and we pulled in shore to find his village,

-which he could not distinguish from the vessel. A clump of cocoa-nuts

-was recognised by him, and at last we pulled into a good sandy beach

-with very good landing, where a crowd had already collected for our

-reception. Their returning brother was at once recognised, and his goods

-shouldered with great readiness. The Bishop’s bad foot forbade his

-leaving the boat, but I landed and went up with the people to their

-village, which was quite close at hand, though invisible from the beach

-owing to the very thick bush. Tom had previously expressed his

-determination to build a house for school purposes as soon as possible,

-and I, through him, told the people of our plans and something of what

-we hoped to do among them. We thereupon, in consequence of the readiness

-they expressed, chose a convenient site for the house, and I promised to

-make a boat voyage to them as soon as I could conveniently get away from

-the northern district. It was evident that there could not be a great

-population in the immediate neighbourhood, as there was only a small

-level tract lying off the beach, backed up by somewhat high hills, which

-would doubtless form a separate district from the beach villages.

-

-On the next day, the 9th, we arrived at the north end of the island,

-having been almost becalmed on the way thither. The _Southern Cross_

-anchored, my belongings were put together, and in two or three hours I

-landed at the usual place, and was at home again at Qatvenua. It was not

-a bright reception--the unusual quietness all about, the absence of the

-usual vociferous greetings, and the depressed looks of the teachers were

-not enlivening, and it was easily seen that there were unpleasant

-tidings to be heard. Gradually all became known. With regard to the

-chief school at Qatvenua the report was altogether favourable. It had

-decidedly advanced. Several outside adults, who had hitherto kept aloof

-from us, had come forward and joined themselves to our congregation, and

-the ordinary work had proceeded quite satisfactorily. But the other two

-schools in the district had met with interruptions, and one was in a

-state of temporary suspense. The cause of all was the fruitful source of

-trouble to us, the labour vessel. Some short time before one had visited

-that part, and a party of men and lads, almost entirely baptized or

-scholars, had departed in her. It was all to be put down to one man who

-had been of some importance. He had done wrong, and to avoid the

-retribution that in some form or other would have fallen upon him, he

-decided to leave the place, and then persuaded some of these men to

-accompany him, and the rest followed them. Amongst them was the teacher

-who had been in charge of the school at Lamoru, whose going was a great

-surprise, as he had always been so quiet and well-conducted. Fortunately

-his helpers were able to continue the school work by themselves without

-any intermittence. At the other place, Vathuqe, the school was closed

-for a time, as there was no one to take the erring teacher’s place. He

-had been left there with some misgivings, as he was not of equal

-standing with the teachers generally, but it was thought that his zeal

-and expressed desire for the post would be equal to the demand made upon

-his steadfastness. Some of the others that embarked were his relatives,

-and so he had the unusual temptation before him, and gave way to it.

-

-My first fortnight on shore was spent at Qatvenua. The landing was done

-in very unfavourable weather. It rained very heavily, and the very steep

-path leading up to the school village, bad enough in fine weather, was

-extremely troublesome for carrying up my goods and chattels, and they

-got very wet. My own little house was not in good condition, and until

-we repaired it I slept in the large boys’ house.

-

-Within a day or two we pulled some little distance down the coast to a

-small bay, where I heard some white man had been recently buried. We saw

-his grave, with an inscription, and in time I heard the story of his

-death. No outrage on labour vessels has been made or attempted in Araga

-for several years, but in January, as it appeared, when a vessel from

-Samoa was visiting some place about thirty miles down the coast, one man

-was shot by a native as he was on shore with several others from the

-vessel bathing. It must be said that this man, a German, showed a great

-lack of wisdom in his behaviour. The native had come down some distance

-from the hills under the impression that his two wives, who had

-disappeared, were on board the vessel then to be seen lying at anchor,

-and in his rage the man was shot, while all the time the women were

-elsewhere. The body was brought up along the coast, and buried near our

-station. The whole affair had caused much excitement, even at the

-Northern end of the island. Some time after the place was visited by a

-German man-of-war, with results that will be spoken of further on.

-

-The great man to the South, Viradoro, expressed his continued desire for

-us to do something in his part, and we visited him several times, and

-were well received and listened to always. There is a lad at Norfolk

-Island who has connections with this place, and when they make a

-beginning at a school-house we may begin work with him as teacher, but I

-decline to put him there, as they desire, before this is done. Within a

-fortnight of my going ashore two labour vessels anchored near us, one

-from New Caledonia, and the other from Fiji. In the latter there

-departed a young son, quite a small boy, of Viradoro’s, whom I had hoped

-to take to Norfolk Island some time or other. His father was greatly put

-out by his being taken away.

-

-I had decided to remain at Qatvenua until Good Friday, and then to go on

-to Tanrig in Maewo for Easter. There are several communicants there, and

-I should have taken the Araga communicants with me that we might have

-our Easter Communion together. During the whole of Holy Week the weather

-was bad, and I feared that our voyage would not be practicable. On the

-Saturday, when we should have left, there was a strong wind blowing from

-the North, which would have been dead against us, with continuous rain,

-and there was no possibility of our going. Our Easter, however, was very

-pleasant, and the joyful hymns told of really joyful Christian hearts.

-

-In Easter week we left for my first visit to Wonor, the village at the

-Southern end where we had put Rorsal ashore. My intention and

-arrangements for going there caused much talk. The distance would be

-nearly forty miles, and I suppose no one had been more than half that

-distance down the coast, and it was thought to be a very long journey.

-More talked of even than the distance, however, was the belief that

-attaches itself to a particular place at the extreme Southern end. To

-this place were supposed to go all the spirits of the departed, and to

-remain there in some sort of community. Of all places in Araga,

-therefore, it is the one of the greatest superstitious interest and

-fear, and many of my chosen boat’s crew’s relatives did their best to

-dissuade them from accompanying me, but without effect. We started on

-the appointed day, and as I knew we could not do the whole distance in

-one day, as we went along the coast we made several calls at the

-villages as they appeared, and fixed upon one not quite half-way, known

-to some of the men, in which to pass the night. Our various stoppages,

-however, so delayed us, that it became clear that we should not reach

-our destination before night, and so when, upon rounding a point, we

-came upon a labour vessel quietly at anchor, and were hospitably invited

-on board for the night, I thought it wise to take advantage of it. It

-was a Fijian vessel with a number of men on board, lately recruited, and

-a Government agent whom I had met before. We passed the night quietly at

-least, though not comfortably for any of us, and pulled away in the

-morning, very grateful for the hospitality shown to us, and resumed our

-journey. The evening found us ashore at Wonor, where there was

-considerable excitement over our landing. Although the place is quite

-open to the prevailing Trade wind, a reef and a sand bank that lie off

-the shore shelter it quite effectually, and make the landing on the

-shelving beach easy and pleasant. In the fortnight that had elapsed

-since our calling here only a little had been done towards building the

-school-house. The site was cleared of all its timber, and some of the

-posts were ready. During our stay we had therefore to sleep in the men’s

-common house, which, being much smaller than is usual in the northern

-part of the island, we found rather inconvenient. On the whole our visit

-of a week was a great success, and it excited much interest. The house

-was proceeded with with great vigour, and all the people in the district

-showed a very friendly spirit, making things look bright and promising

-for the future. Thomas was doing all he could in the way of teaching,

-and his Scripture Picture Books were all well thumbed. I confined my

-doings to the immediate neighbourhood, and saw but little of the

-adjacent country, though the report of our sojourn caused people to come

-from a great distance to Wonor, and they were very desirous of being

-visited. My boat’s crew were thoroughly well treated, and feasted to a

-great extent, and our entertainers did us the honour of dancing to us

-one evening. I had not intended to make a long stay this time, and

-having made some arrangements in the North, which required my presence,

-we left at the appointed time, in spite of the pressing invitation for a

-longer stay. Our return journey was accomplished with a little

-difficulty. The ordinary winds would have taken us back pleasantly in a

-day, but we fell in with a contrary wind halfway up the coast, and were

-delayed. Some time after night-fall we decided to land at a village then

-quite close, but the tide being out the reef was uncovered, and not

-wishing to have the boat injured we continued on our way, and at last

-reached our own beach, after very hard pulling, two or three hours

-before the dawn of the new day. It was not surprising that some of the

-lads should be knocked up for a time after this, but it was thought to

-be quite in accordance with the character of the place visited, that

-they were all, one after the other, laid up for varying periods. It did

-really seem peculiar that it should so happen at this particular time,

-when so much was being said about the superstition connected with the

-southern part.

-

-After this there was a month’s stay at the two Northern schools. At

-Lamoru a new house was built, larger and in better style than the old

-one which had seen the beginning of the work, and new arrangements were

-made concerning the teaching staff. At Qatvenua also repairs were made

-to the various buildings, and a boat-house, sufficient for the purpose,

-but not of any great size or beauty, was erected on the beach. The whole

-of this time was more or less wet, and there was much sickness all

-through the district. The infants suffered most, and very many died,

-several being children of our congregations. A girl also died, one of

-the two belonging to this place who had been to Norfolk Island. She had

-been declining for about a year, and my attempts to improve her health

-failed. Her lengthened sickness tried the patience of her friends

-greatly, and it was suggested once or twice by relatives that her end

-should be hastened. By these who made this suggestion it was of course

-believed that the illness was due to some unfriendly person’s charms,

-who would be rejoicing at seeing her suffering. One of our Catechumens

-lost his only child, a very engaging little boy, and his account of how

-he prayed that it might recover, and how he felt when death came, and

-his prayer seemed to be in vain, was very touching. This child he had

-been in the habit of bringing frequently for me to see, and when I once

-gave him some beads for it, he was delighted. These, he told me

-afterwards, he had buried with him.

-

-On June 5 the _Southern Cross_ returned to me again from the Northern

-islands, and I went on board to be put on shore at Wonor. It was my

-intention to go there to stay until the vessel’s return again from the

-South, which would be in about six weeks’ time. Two boys were to

-accompany me for the stay, and I took my boat. We could not land until

-the next day, after spending an unpleasant night on board. On pulling

-in, the school-house appeared well on to completion, showing that they

-had been working well at it since my last visit. It was not possible yet

-to sleep in it, so I spread my rug again in the men’s house, but we

-assembled the people together in the school-house for such instruction

-and talking as were found possible. A large party of Ambrym men was

-weather-bound here. Their home was plainly visible, about seven or eight

-miles distant, but across a very disturbed passage. They had already

-been here ten days, and were anxious to return. They had a sorrowful

-tale to tell. A short time before they had come over from Ambrym to go

-on an ordinary bartering expedition along our coast, and when the German

-man-of-war, the Albatross, mentioned above, arrived to avenge the death

-of the man who was killed in the beginning of the year, they happened to

-be at the very place. Naturally they thought themselves quite safe from

-any attack, and sat quietly on the beach awaiting the arrival of the

-boat. They all knew that the culprit was in a village two or three miles

-away on the hills, and they were prepared to assist in punishing him.

-Suddenly however, without any warning, they were fired upon more than

-once from some of the big guns of the ship. They at once fled in great

-fear, and did not know until the evening, when they ventured out of the

-bush again, what had been the result of the firing. One poor fellow had

-part of one leg blown away, and was found lying in great agony. A day or

-two after he died. Having thus fired and cleared the place of all

-people, a large number of men went ashore from the man-of-war, and

-succeeded in killing a few pigs, and in burning down the large men’s

-house of the place, which belonged to perfectly innocent and unconcerned

-people. Such a proceeding is not calculated to induce in the people any

-thoughts either of the justice or of the courage of the white man. It

-was a very weary time for them while waiting at Wonor, before reaching

-home to tell of their missing brother, and it was not pleasant for the

-people of Wonor, as the vessel had picked up two lads of the place as

-guides, and they were on board when the firing occurred.

-

-Instead of spending six weeks at this place we spent only ten days. They

-were busy days, as we all worked at the house, and as I could not get

-about very much to the neighbouring villages, I had to content myself

-with talking to the people as they came about us. It soon became evident

-that my two boys from the North were very home-sick. One I discovered

-sitting in the dark one evening crying, and although they said nothing I

-could see what they wished. I therefore decided to return with them, and

-after some little difficulty got a crew together. We started on a not

-very promising morning, but did not go far before the hearts of the

-Wonor men failed them entirely. There was a good breeze blowing, and

-some sea on, and the prospect of a long journey before them, and they

-formally requested to be allowed to return. It would have been very

-awkward to get back in the boat, as both wind and sea were dead against

-us, so I decided to put them ashore at a convenient spot, and continued

-the journey with the two boys. We had a fair wind, but rain commenced

-and continued at intervals all through the day. At last we reached our

-destination as evening came on, and never was home more welcome. Our

-wonderful journey, as it was thought, with only three in the boat,

-caused much talk. Had the wind failed us we should have been in a great

-difficulty, but as it was we did the forty miles without much labour. I

-hoped to be able to get a crew together, and to go South again to

-complete my stay, but we were over-ruled. Three or four days after

-reaching Qatvenua the place was greatly disturbed on hearing that a

-large canoe, which had left Maewo with Araga people in it more than a

-week before, had not been seen or heard of. They were either drowned or

-had been blown over to Opa. After a day or two more of suspense I

-decided to go to Opa to enquire. It was a relief to everybody when we

-started, and the people at home rejoiced greatly when they saw our

-signal fires in the evening to let them know that we had found the

-missing ones. It was so--they had been blown away from Araga, and could

-do nothing but steer for Opa. We remained there one night, and a Trader

-who lives there kindly gave the hospitality, and next day we started on

-our return with some of the canoe crew. A night had to be spent on the

-way at Maewo, but early the next morning we reached home. This was on

-Friday, and on the evening of the next day I commenced to be unwell,

-and continued so for three weeks. All plans came to nought, as I found

-it impossible to get rid of the ague and consequent fever, and only now

-and then could I manage to rise at all. The arrival of the _Southern

-Cross_ on July 17 was therefore very welcome, and I went on board at

-once. All plans as regards the Bank’s Islands had to be given up, and

-instead of my staying for a time in Mr. Palmer’s district at Mota and

-Motalav, as I had anticipated with great pleasure, I was forced to see

-the wisdom of remaining on board for the voyage up to the Solomon

-Islands. Much of great interest occurred during the voyage, but the

-greatest event was a visit we paid to Nukapu, where the Memorial cross

-for Bishop Patteson had been erected two years previously. It was found

-to be well cared for, the people were more than friendly, were most

-hospitable, and there are bright hopes of something being done ere long

-in the place where the Martyr’s death occurred.

-

-I improved so much during the trip that on our arrival in the New

-Hebrides again, I decided to continue my stay in Araga. I was on shore

-therefore again from September 14 to November 12, and all the places

-were visited, and I was no more hindered by bad health. Wonor advanced

-most satisfactorily: my later visit found the house completed and quite

-fit to sleep in, and I saw much of the surrounding districts and people.

-At Lamoru we had the only adult Baptism of the year--five men were

-Baptized after much preparation and a long time of trial. November 18

-found us again off Norfolk Island, and the Island Voyages were a thing

-of the past for 1886.

-

-

-NETHERTON AND WORTH, PRINTERS, TRURO.

-

-

-

-

-

-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New

-Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain

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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides,
+S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+Title: Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean
+
+Author: C. Bice
+        A. Brittain
+
+Release Date: October 9, 2018 [EBook #58060]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from scans of public domain works at The National
+Library of Australia.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                                JOURNAL
+
+                   OF RESIDENCE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES,
+                          S.W. PACIFIC OCEAN.
+
+
+                     WRITTEN DURING THE YEAR 1886,
+
+                                  BY
+
+                    REVDS. C. BICE AND A. BRITTAIN.
+
+
+                                TRURO:
+
+                  NETHERTON AND WORTH, LEMON STREET.
+
+                                 1887.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+I have been induced to publish the following Journals at the request of
+some friends who have perused them, and think they will prove
+interesting to others. The Journal of the Rev. A. Brittain arrived too
+late for insertion in the ‘Island Voyage’ for this year, and I have been
+requested by the Rev. William Selwyn, the Secretary of the Melanesian
+Mission, to print it with my own. I do this with the greater pleasure,
+because his report will not only supply me with a good excuse for
+rushing into print, but will furnish others with a more full and
+complete account of the work of the Melanesian Mission in the New
+Hebrides.
+
+The three islands herein spoken of are the Northernmost of the
+above-mentioned group--the New Hebrides--and form the Southern boundary
+of the Melanesian Mission work in the islands of the South-west Pacific
+Ocean.
+
+Araga (or Pentecost) and Maewo (or Aurora) are long and mountainous
+islands running almost North and South, about forty miles each in
+length, and separated by a narrow channel three miles wide. Opa (or
+Leper’s Island) runs at right angles to these, a broad, massive, grand
+looking country, resembling in appearance a huge whale, the hump of
+which rises to a height of over 4000 feet.
+
+Araga and Opa are thickly populated, but Maewo has a scattered and
+sparse population. Opa is about sixteen miles from Araga, but a channel
+of only five miles in width separates it from Maewo.
+
+The languages and dispositions of these neighbouring lands are much more
+varied and dissimilar than would naturally be inferred from their close
+propinquity. And the majority of the people, too, seem to prefer an
+inland situation, all which serve to make the work of the Missionary the
+more arduous and difficult. On these islands every outward prospect is
+pleasing, and the inhabitants themselves not so far gone in vileness as
+to be incapable of improvement, as I hope the following pages will show.
+The work of the Melanesian Mission has been established in these islands
+a good many years now, with more or less success, and schools are in
+active operation as follows:--
+
+At ARAGA--Wonor, on the Southern face of the island, and Lamoru and
+Qatvenua on the North.
+
+At MAEWO--Tanrig, Tasmouri, Tasmate, Mandurvat, Naruru, and Uta. All
+these stations are on the North of the island.
+
+At OPA--Tavolavola, Lobaha, Walurigi, the most flourishing of which is
+that first mentioned.
+
+With these few preliminary remarks and explanations I leave the
+following simple pages to tell their own story.
+
+                                           CHARLES BICE.
+
+
+N.B.--The vowels in the Melanesian languages are pronounced as in
+     Italian: a = _ah_, e = _a_, i = _e_.
+
+      The letter written [¨n] = _ng_ in _singer_; d = _nd_, b = _mb_.
+
+
+
+
+                               JOURNAL.
+
+                                _1886._
+
+
+_Friday, 9th July._--The weather seaward looked very threatening as we
+stood on the Pier at the Settlement in readiness to embark. All the
+Melanesians, boys and girls, to the number of about 50 had already gone
+off to the ship which lay tossing and tumbling at her anchorage as if
+anxious to be let free. A considerable number of Norfolk Island friends
+were on the Pier, in addition to most of the Members of the Mission, to
+bid us Farewell and wish us GOD speed. Many thoughtful little mementos,
+too, found their way into our hands from our warm-hearted and well
+wishing friends. The process of shaking hands took some time in
+execution, but one could not but feel the absence of many who were
+unavoidably absent on the occasion. My own little ones were the last to
+bid me good-bye, and poor little Walter (my youngest son) was very
+tearful. Shortly after, we were all in the boat, and “let go” was called
+out. The landing was very smooth, and we got out with very little
+difficulty. Besides the Captain, Mr. Turnbull and myself were the only
+passengers. It was close upon 5 o’clock p.m. when we got on board, and
+some of the passengers had already begun to feel the motion of the
+ocean. After things were put into some order and the shore boat
+dismissed with Captain Bates and the Norfolk Island crew, the command to
+“heave away” was given, and then I saw for the first time the steam
+winch at work. Before many minutes the anchor was in its place in the
+bows of the ship, and the long process of raising the anchor in old
+days, performed by manual labour, reduced to a minimum. We slipped
+quietly down the leeside of the island, and had ample time to get into
+some amount of order and readiness for a very dirty, rough night.
+Opposite the Mission, the boys ashore had lit a large bonfire, and we
+could hear their shouts, borne seaward by the raging gale. As night
+closed in the sky became very dark and lowering, and we knew full well
+what we were to expect. We had dinner while still under the lee of the
+island, but before the meal was finished, we were knocking about in the
+heavy head gale. Of course any where but at Norfolk Island, where there
+is no certain shelter, it would be approaching madness to put to sea
+with such a crowd of people in a small ship on a night like this, but
+here there is no help for it. Perhaps had we not got away as we did, we
+might have been detained another week, from the uncertainty of wind
+changes and the insecurity of the anchorages. All night it blew very
+heavily, with a nasty head sea. Of course, the wind being very strong
+and dead ahead, we made little or no progress, and were in fact hove to.
+Most of the passengers spent a very unpleasant night, and the poor
+little children, of whom we had four on board, suffered like the others.
+The poor boys in the schoolroom had a disagreeable time, owing to the
+large amount of cargo on board, in addition to their own luggage. The
+_Southern Cross_, however, is a magnificent sea boat, although slightly
+lively, and being at sea was, to me at least, the worst of the evils we
+experienced that first night. Mr. Turnbull is a good sailor, and he and
+I were alone in the saloon. Poor old Manekalea I invited also to sleep
+there, on account of his blindness, and I asked Silas Kema to sleep
+there and look after him. Poor fellow, his sight seems quite gone, but
+he is wonderfully patient and resigned. I think now he begins to feel
+that there is no hope of his ever seeing again, and he begins to try and
+help himself and get about alone a great deal more than before. The loss
+of so young, active, and intelligent a Teacher must be much felt in the
+district of Ysabel, formerly under his charge.
+
+
+_Saturday, 10th._--The wind had abated little, if any, this morning, and
+the vessel was making little or no headway. It rained a good deal
+throughout the day, and that allayed both wind and sea by evening. Very
+few of the boys appeared on deck, and I myself was quite _hors de
+combat_. Mr. Turnbull kindly offered to read prayers in English for me
+in the Evening, and I managed the Mota with a few who were able to
+attend. These first days on board ship are very trying, one feels quite
+out of it altogether, and the sea legs are somewhat long in returning
+when one has been ashore for any length of time. Towards evening the
+weather moderated a little, but there was very little life about the
+ship. These unhappy days when one is the victim of _mal de mer_ leave a
+very unsatisfactory impression behind them, and if any recollection is
+left, it is always painful. I was not actually seasick myself, but I
+felt uncomfortable enough for a time, and did not care for ship’s fare.
+
+
+_Sunday, 11th._--The weather more moderate. I conducted Morning Prayer
+both in English and Mota, and generally our passengers were getting over
+their indisposition. It was not a very profitable day however to me, for
+I could not settle to anything: our Service hours on Sunday, at sea, are
+English Mattins at 9 o’clock a.m. and Evensong at 7 p.m. Mota 11 a.m.
+and 7.30 p.m. Our daily hours for meals are 8 a.m. breakfast, 12 noon
+lunch, 5 p.m. dinner. On Sunday this is slightly changed, and we dine at
+1, and tea at 5 p.m. At anchor, too, the English Morning Service is
+postponed to 10 a.m., and all the sailors are enabled to attend. Usually
+only one watch can be present while the vessel is at sea. This year we
+have a crew composed entirely of Englishmen. We have generally had
+previously a strong admixture of foreigners. The steward, indeed, is a
+German, but he has been with us so many voyages, speaks and reads
+English so well, that one quite forgets his nationality. The crew are a
+very nice, quiet, well-behaved set of men, and all look so respectable.
+I believe the Captain has many applications for billets on board the
+_Southern Cross_, she being a popular vessel now-a-days, besides, a trip
+in her is a paying affair, for I am told that sometimes the men realize
+from £10 to £30 and £40 by the sale of curios alone. The great collector
+on board now is John Brown the boatswain, and he has accumulated quite a
+museum, which he meditates taking to England for sale next year. Brown
+is an old Island Trader, and knows all the specialities of the trade and
+what will captivate the native taste. Penny whistles and half-penny
+looking glasses, I believe, are the line this trip. There is very keen
+competition too on board when the curio fields are reached, chiefly at
+Santa Cruz and some of the Solomon Islands. Sunday passed away somewhat
+profitlessly, and evening once more closed over a day past and gone. I
+did not give the sailors a Sermon, but reserved my efforts for the
+Melanesians, many of whom were able to attend. I naturally chose the
+subject of the Gospel as the basis of my remarks, viz: the recovery of
+the lost sheep and the piece of money, which I applied to the condition
+of the heathen to whom we were going, and our duty as seekers of those
+who were still wandering upon the mountains and upon every high hill,
+with none caring for them or seeking them out. We had some singing after
+the service, and the termination of the day at least was pleasant, and I
+hope profitable. One’s thoughts naturally wandered away back to Norfolk
+Island, and one thought of the quiet peaceful Sunday evenings there, and
+the love of those we had left. The vessel was much more at her ease this
+evening, and we could undress and rest in bed with more comfort.
+
+It was a great pleasure to me from this time forward, to see the boys
+dropping into the cabin one by one to say their prayers, unbidden but
+none the less welcome.
+
+
+_Monday, 12th July._--This morning the wind has moderated very
+considerably, and the sea is going down. The vessel moving along much
+more gently and easily, sometimes towards our destination. Life on board
+is almost utterly devoid of interest or excitement. There is little or
+nothing stirring, and out of our element we feel restless and not fit
+for much. We begin now however, to fall into ship-shape ways, and things
+begin to look a little straighter than they did. The boys are divided
+into sets of cooks, and have to take their turn in order to cook and
+keep the schoolroom clean. The Melanesians have three meals a day, and
+they are supposed to look after their own food, the cook giving
+directions as to what he wants doing. After the misery and prostration
+of _mal de mer_ have passed off, the boys get very lively, and do not
+easily again succumb.
+
+In the evening we had music. Brown the boatswain has a most ingenious
+instrument called, I think, the “Cabinetto,” which plays almost any
+tune; a piece of perforated paper is turned over a sort of key-board,
+like a mouth organ, by means of a handle, and the closed notes are kept
+silent, while the open ones speak according to the length of the
+perforation. Its tone is somewhat harsh, but the music is very correct,
+and there is plenty of it. Brown bought this instrument, which cost him
+some £15 or £16, for the special amusement of his young Melanesian
+friends. The girls never seem to tire of turning the handle, and the
+more it is turned the better the owner seems pleased. Forward there is a
+very good concertina, exceptionally well played by one of the sailors, a
+banjo played by another, and a tin plate beaten by a third makes a very
+fair tambourine. Altogether, the hour between 5 and 6 p.m. is very
+lively with strains of music and other enlivenments. The boys most
+thoroughly enjoy the music, and are very attentive and enthusiastic
+listeners, breaking in with a good chorus when they happen to know any
+of the pieces played. At 7 p.m. English Prayers, a shortened form of
+Evensong with a hymn, and afterwards full Evensong in Mota with a good
+deal of singing. We have many nice voices on board this time, and the
+singing is exceptionally good. Owing to the crowded state of the
+schoolroom, service is held in the saloon, which is inconveniently small
+for the large number who attend. The girls who hitherto have been
+prevented from attending, by reason of sea-sickness, this evening put in
+a very fairly large appearance. Most Melanesian ladies are bad sailors,
+and some never get over the inconveniences of the uncongenial sea
+element.
+
+
+_Tuesday, 13th July._--The weather this morning was somewhat finer, but
+still a good deal unsettled. We have failed as yet to get hold of the
+S.E. Trades, but are living in hopes that a favourable breeze will soon
+waft us onward to our destination. The great excitement this morning was
+the smoke of a steamer, which at first we wildly imagined must be the
+vessel expected from Sydney to meet us at Norfolk Island, giving us
+chase. However, wiser heads, by the direction of the ship’s head and the
+course of the smoke, made it out to be the _Rockton_ or some steamer
+from Fiji towards New Caledonia. Whatever ship it may have been, the
+excitement all ended in smoke. Beyond this, we have had nothing stirring
+all day. The moon at night dispersed the clouds, and the concertina
+forward enlivened the monotony of the evening. And so has passed another
+day, leaving little record of any work done.
+
+
+_Wednesday, 14th July._--We were to-day somewhere in the neighbourhood
+of Walpole Island, a flat, uninhabited island lying by itself in mid
+ocean, on which myriads of sea birds have their dwelling, and lay their
+eggs and hatch their young. The weather was somewhat hazy, so we got no
+sight of the sun although the Captain was anxious to do so, not having
+been able to see that orb either to-day or yesterday. The ‘dead
+reckoning’ alone showed him our probable whereabouts, but he was not
+able to get any definite position laid down. Shoals of fish were seen
+about the ship to-day, and the boys perched on the bowsprit end
+succeeded in cleverly catching two fine skipjacks, one of which we had
+cooked for dinner, and which was pronounced as very good eating. No bait
+is required for these fish, a line, rod, and hook to which a piece of
+red rag is attached, are requisite, and the motion of the vessel makes
+the tempting object skip along the surface of the water, to which the
+fish rises and swallows hook and all. They are large fish, and
+peculiarly strong, especially with their tails. At times they breach out
+of the water to a great height, the motive power being seated in their
+tails. One of the boys unadvisedly took hold of one of those caught
+to-day too near the tail, and the fish lashing out struck him on the
+forefinger, and at first I fancied had sprained it, for the whole hand
+swelled, and he was in considerable pain for some time. This evening it
+was very quiet and pleasant, and the moon added to the pleasantness of
+the occasion. It is wonderful to mark how the days lengthen as we go
+further North, and how the weather grows warmer. Soon we shall dispense
+with waistcoats, and bye and bye coats will likewise go, except at meals
+and at prayers. We saw nothing of Walpole Island, and the Captain got no
+sight of the sun again to-day.
+
+
+_Thursday, 15th July._--This morning we were well up with Anaiteum, the
+first of the New Hebrides group, and belonging to the Presbyterians who
+have been established there a great number of years. Soon after Tanna
+appeared in view, and later on in the day Eromango. We could not see the
+volcano at Tanna, so that we cannot speak of its activity or otherwise.
+We passed close under Eromango, and for some time the water was quite
+smooth. We had a most beautiful wind all day, the real S.E. Trades, and
+we were enabled to make good progress towards our first place of call.
+Everyone on board seems to have sprung into life with the sight of land,
+and no doubt many see in the islands we are passing the anticipation of
+their own homes. Most of our passengers are from the New Hebrides and
+Banks’ groups, of which these three islands are the commencement. It was
+most beautiful all day and the evening especially enjoyable; the Captain
+wisely remarked that if it were always so fine, there would be too many
+sailors, or at least persons who would want to go to sea. Melanesian
+islands are disappointing as viewed at a distance from the sea, for they
+are like any other place, but the great beauty of them is seen on nearer
+inspection and ashore. These three islands and the Loyalty group are not
+so thickly wooded as some farther North.
+
+
+_Friday, July 16th._--Strong S.E. Trades, and we moved along rapidly all
+day, doing over two hundred miles. We found ourselves in the evening
+running through the passage between Ambrym and Pentecost at the South
+end of which we expected to find Mr. Brittain, who had been left there
+when the ship went back to Norfolk Island. We stood quite close into
+the place, but receiving no manner of response from the shore we began
+to suspect that after all the bird had flown. The vessel stood off and
+on all the night, and it certainly was more comfortable than usually is
+the case under the like circumstances. The vessel rode very quietly all
+night, and on
+
+
+_Saturday, July 17th._--We were early off our place of call, and seeing
+no signs ashore the boat was lowered and I took the steer oar in a
+furious wind and a heavy sea. The approach to and departure from this
+place were as nasty as could be, and I was not sorry to be on board all
+right again. Mr. Brittain had left some time before, and our visit was
+futile except that we brought off his things. The people were quiet and
+well behaved, and Tom (the teacher) was in great form. Tom, having been
+educated in Sydney, speaks remarkably good English and is evidently held
+in respect by his people. Their dress and appearance are very like their
+neighbours of Ambrym, and the women wear the flaxen petticoat also like
+the Ambrymese. Their language, too, I believe, is akin, the distance
+separating the two islands not being more than five or six miles. Tom is
+building a very nice school, and there seems a large population. A big,
+chiefly looking man was sitting on the beach as we were coming away, and
+Tom told me that he was the chief of the place. I had brought nothing
+with me from the ship, and the boys had nothing, so the best I could do
+for the great man was to give him a tin of sardines which I got out of
+one of Mr. Brittain’s boxes. I dare say he would have preferred tobacco,
+but he seemed as satisfied as natives usually appear to be, for they are
+not generally very demonstrative or profuse in their thanks. The tide
+was falling fast so we had to beat a hasty retreat and got off with some
+considerable difficulty.
+
+Poor Tom must find life at home somewhat of a change to the ‘easy life’
+he enjoyed in Sydney. I believe he was very much scandalized when he
+first got home at the outrageously indecent dress of his countrymen. He
+himself still dons the Sydney costume, but minus boots. Poor boy! I dare
+say he dreamed in Sydney of the reforms he would endeavour to effect
+when he got home, but the stern difficulties in the way he now begins to
+realize. Oh! Missionary work seems easy enough when viewed from an arm
+chair at a distance of many thousand miles, the difficulties only become
+apparent when the man is brought into close connection with his work,
+and has to grapple in a stubborn, persistant hand to hand fight with the
+Evil one. Poor Tom! I suppose he will try a little at first to stem the
+tide, and failing in that, will drift along with the stream. To a poor
+youth like that the difficulties of his position must seem stupendous
+and insurmountable. Nothing but the grace of God is sufficient for such.
+I dare say ere now his bright vistas and day dreams are being only too
+rudely dispelled, for he will have to find out like all other
+Missionaries that Christians are not made by machinery, or believers
+made such in a day; it is a long and weary process, but labour is not in
+vain in the Lord. Once more on board, the boat was hauled up, and on we
+started for the North end of the island where now we hoped to find Mr.
+Brittain. We saw a Labour vessel at anchor along the coast, and got to
+our own anchorage about 4 p.m. Mr. Brittain came off in his boat very
+sick, and with some difficulty got on board. He has been ill three weeks
+and was very anxious for the return of the vessel. During the evening he
+brightened up a good deal and I dare say felt much better for the
+society of his white brethren. He gave a very sad account of the state
+of things ashore, great sickness and considerable mortality. We had a
+very quiet night at anchor, and determined to stay here till Monday. We
+had some boys to land, and the boats were going forth and back all the
+evening. The clatter alongside was fearful owing to the large number of
+canoes that put off to the ship and every occupant speaking at the same
+time. They used to be a very noisy crowd, but have much improved of late
+years. It was a most glorious night at anchor and not excessively hot.
+We consider that we have done very well to be here so soon with the bad
+start from Norfolk Island. How the boys and girls did enjoy the fruits
+of their own islands again, especially green cocoanuts and soft sugar
+cane! And how pleasing was it too, as well as entertaining, as the
+shades of evening closed in, to watch the coy and shy flirtations of the
+young married couples on board; one or two were quite oldfashioned at
+the process, but Charles and Monica especially were somewhat more
+bashful. The young bridegrooms were most attentive to their respective
+spouses on the voyage but necessarily lived apart. The boys and men all
+live together in the schoolroom, and the girls and married women aft.
+There are as yet no married people’s apartments, we shall look for those
+when we get a bigger ship.
+
+
+_Sunday, 18th July._--Quiet and peaceful day at Araga. The natives
+regarded the observance of Sunday so strictly that they troubled us very
+little with their noisy chatter, indeed very few canoes came off at all
+to the ship, and we were able to have an uninterrupted day of rest. Our
+services began at 10 a.m. with English Prayers. We chanted the Venite,
+read the Te Deum, and sang the Jubilate besides singing the Glorias in
+the Psalms, and two hymns. We had therefore full Mattins with a short
+address to which the men paid very good attention. I tried to make the
+discourse as easy and lively as possible, and interspersed a few
+anecdotes among my remarks, which I think, being appropriate, were
+appreciated. The service lasted just three quarters of an hour so that
+the men were not wearied. It was not a very hot day, but beautifully
+bright and glorious. Shorewards it looked most lovely, the bright
+sunshine lighting up the vegetation with a silver sheen, everything
+seeming to catch the infection from the King of Day, who rejoiced as a
+giant to run his course. On board a gentle breeze cooled the air, and
+under the awning and down below alike it was bearably comfortable and
+refreshing.
+
+At 11 o’clock we had service in Mota, at which we had the attendance of
+all the Melanesians of both sexes in the ship, and a very hearty,
+cheering service it was. I reserved my address to them for the evening
+and before noon our religious duties for the morning were over. We dined
+at 1 o’clock and in the afternoon Mr. Turnbull and myself went ashore.
+This was his first experience in these islands and he was duly impressed
+with the natural beauty everywhere apparent, and the good nature of the
+people. It was nearly high water when we went in over the reef, and the
+clearness of the sea, the beauty of the coral bed, the dear little blue
+and vari-coloured fish which flitted about produced their due effect on
+him. The white beach, too, with its background of most luxuriant green
+rising from the base and clothing in marvellous profusion the tops of
+the hills greatly delighted him. The climb up the hill somewhat
+dispelled the fancy, but one could well imagine oneself in some
+semi-fairy land so strangely beautiful as it all looked. We were in a
+very liquid state when we reached the school about three quarters of a
+mile up the hill, and green cocoanuts were very acceptable. Here we
+found in the midst of all the loveliness a poor little child dying amid
+squalor and destitution. The poor young mother was sitting over it and
+crying her heart out. Her son had been buried the day before and there
+seemed not a particle of hope for the elder sister. I said what I could
+to comfort the mother, but it was too late to do anything for the child.
+The father with a third child was walking up and down disconsolately
+outside. The sight had its effect on me, for the father bears the
+honoured name of my great friend Bishop Key of Kaffraria, the mother
+bears my wife’s name, and the little dying one the name of my own
+daughter, the boy too who died the day before was called “Bailey” a
+cognomen revered by all Augustinians as the name of its late Warden.
+
+Poor things! May God give them all the comfort of His grace, the only
+balm for a troubled and afflicted soul.
+
+We walked about the village for a time and everything being utterly new
+and strange to Mr. Turnbull he was very much charmed. We visited old
+Sarawia who was once, and I dare say now is, the chief man in the place.
+He still looks much the same as ever but professed himself to be failing
+in health, and suffering from a sort of paralysis in his left leg. It
+does not seem however as if he intended to die just yet for he has
+lately taken two or three additional wives. We also saw the great wind
+and rain maker, but he said he had given up the trade now, and came to
+school regularly. Formerly he used to derive a good income from it I
+believe.
+
+The houses and gamals (men’s quarters) here are most squalid and
+wretched, but the people seem content, and don’t trouble themselves much
+about their habitations, but what they shall eat or drink is a prominent
+consideration in all their minds. Their great treasures here are pigs
+and mats, and a man’s wealth and standing is measured by his possession
+in these. After proceeding through various grades if a man can kill one
+hundred pigs at a feast he is looked upon as a man of importance and his
+name is handed down to posterity as a great man, and I believe by that
+means his fare is prepaid to the realms of the Blest. The reverse I
+believe obtains with those who possess no treasures and kill no pigs.
+Everyone therefore in the interval between his advent into this world
+and his departure from it, endeavours to slaughter according to custom
+one pig or more, or the consequences will be terrible if not here at
+least hereafter.
+
+This is a cheap way at all events of purchasing blessedness and no
+wonder they are eager with the small price for it. A fighting man
+formerly was looked upon as having more claim to their Walhalla than a
+man who refused or who had failed to take blood. This title certainly of
+late years has not been so eagerly coveted, and so far it is,
+thankworthy, but “when the wicked man turneth away from his wickedness
+and doeth that which is lawful and right he shall save his soul alive,”
+this last clause as yet is omitted from their programme.
+
+On our way back I could not refrain from paying another visit to the
+dying child. There still sat the faithful mother, and there still lay
+her pretty child, life was not yet extinct, and she had turned since I
+saw her before. I determined when I got off to the ship to try and get
+some medicine as a sort of dernier resort. I doubt if medicine will ever
+more do any good. We got off to the ship before 5 p.m., and at that hour
+had tea, bread and sardines, and cake which the cook had concocted. The
+“Cabinetto” was going most of the evening, Brown having thoughtfully
+brought some sacred sheets for Sundays. At 7 p.m. we had Evensong in
+English and afterwards in Mota with an address on the Gospel, “Be ye
+therefore merciful,” “not only were we to ask mercy for ourselves I
+said, but we too must extend it to others, and we should find plenty of
+opportunity of doing so, in the places to which we were going. If we
+only felt for a moment the mercy of God towards us as revealed in Christ
+Jesus, we must be merciful to our fellows, and we must show them the
+same mercy we had experienced and known in our Saviour’s dealings with
+our own souls.”
+
+We had great singing afterwards, which they always enjoy. It was most
+resplendent on deck afterwards, and one was thankful for the quiet and
+refreshment throughout of the day of rest.
+
+
+_Monday, 19th July._--Mr. Brittain well enough this morning to go ashore
+to collect his things and make arrangements with his teachers. It is his
+intention if health permits to stay ashore in Mr. Palmer’s district at
+Mota and the Banks’ Islands, but in his present condition such a step
+would scarcely be wise. However, time will tell. While he was ashore Mr.
+Huggett, the mate, always ready to lend a helping hand, and myself put
+the teacher’s things together, and when he came off Mr. Brittain had
+nothing to do but give them out according as they had been deserved.
+Meanwhile there were crowds of people round about the ship, and much
+trading was carried on by the boys and girls on board. They use here
+canoes with outriggers, and the larger ones are very clumsy, unwieldy
+monsters. The Captain hates the sight of them alongside for they rub the
+paint off the ship, and sometimes even damage the copper. In the Solomon
+Islands they have no outriggers, and the natives are much more expert in
+the management of their canoes, both large and small.
+
+Here at Araga they have a very large number of canoes, but they are very
+bad.
+
+We weighed anchor at noon and stood across to Opa and were at anchor at
+Tavolavola by about 3.30 p.m.; a very nice breeze took us across, and
+on arrival there we made preparations for going ashore at once. I found
+matters satisfactory ashore, and the school in full swing, the young
+teachers all neatly and nicely dressed.
+
+They were glad to have Charles back again and the women walked off with
+his pretty wife, dressed in all her bit of best. She had done a good
+deal of weeping between the ship and shore, evidently being very
+reluctant to leave her friends on board. Her eyes therefore were
+slightly tear bedyed, and her cheeks also, before she got ashore. The
+school looked cared for, and I was pleased to see a very nice new house
+built for me. The people were very glad to have me back and received me
+in their usually cordial fashion. An English Trader had built a house,
+and had resided some months near the village, but had lately taken his
+departure, why I know not, but I believe there was not trade enough.
+
+There are a number of white men now trading all over the island, the
+mystery is how they can make it pay. Monica was very tearful again when
+I bid her good-bye, poor girl I dare say she will have a hard struggle
+at first among her own country women, but I trust she may have strength
+given her to resist the wiles of the Evil one and his agents among them.
+She is a pretty, flighty girl, but much improved of late, and became a
+great favourite on board. She has a most estimable husband and I hope
+she will make him a good helpmeet.
+
+We passed a very pleasant night at the snug anchorage and all the boys
+came off to the ship next morning.
+
+
+_Tuesday, 20th July._--We weighed anchor and dropped down to Lobaha,
+about four miles along the coast to the Westward. Here we found Herbert
+Arudale well. He came off to the ship with his wife Mary who was not
+well. They seem to live much happier now, and both were beaming over
+with smiles. He gives but a poor account of his work, which is much in
+_statu quo_. The fact is his field is very limited if he must confine
+himself to his own people, and it never suggests itself to a Melanesian
+to go farther a-field. The mountain must come to Mahomet, for Mahomet
+never dreams of going to the mountain. However, now with Didi and his
+wife, a most exemplary pair, and seemingly very devoted, they ought to
+make a fresh start. Baitagaro I saw ashore and he seems to have
+improved, but it must be heart breaking work to labour on year after
+year, and get little or no attention to what you say, no appreciation of
+the message you bring, and no interest taken in all you endeavour to
+do. However, it is what the Man of Sorrows passed through, and it is
+what His true followers have to experience also.
+
+Here we almost filled the ship with fruit, especially a kind ardently
+longed for by the Norfolk Islanders, which they call the Vee apple, but
+which the Opa people term “Uhi.” Some very sweet oranges too were
+offered for sale, and the ship looked like a fruit market.
+
+We hoisted our anchor before noon and stood across to Maewo where we
+anchored in the evening. No one being down on the beach, I started off
+Arthur Huqe and Duwu to Tanrig to tell the people to come down in the
+morning.
+
+The village is three or four miles from the watering place and except
+the ship is there, the Tanrigese seldom come down to this beach, the sea
+being nearer on the other side of the island. Mr. Turnbull and I with
+some of the boys went in and had a most delicious bath, after so many
+days privation all the nicer. The river we found very full and the rush
+very great, but the water was most beautifully cool and refreshing. This
+now is the chief and best watering place in the islands, and the water
+itself is most excellent. Late in the evening a boy arrived who had
+rowed a long distance in his canoe, and he gave us the news, which was
+good on the whole. He told me again the tragic story enacted at [¨N]adui,
+a village not far from the watering place. One Vulatewa was a reputed
+disease-maker, and he resided there. Lately there had been a great
+mortality at Maewo, and especially among the still heathen people of
+Tanrowo, a coastal district bordering on [¨N]adui. The great man,
+Melkalano’s son died and his brother and many others, and Vulatewa
+insisted that he had made the sickness, and would kill many more except
+he were propitiated. However, propitiation by the gift of pigs or money
+was not in Melkalano’s line, and collecting his followers he made a raid
+on poor Vulatewa and killed him and two others, cutting them into small
+pieces, and leaving them as they were killed.
+
+They then drove out the other inhabitants, or rather fear had already
+lent them wings for flight, and destroyed the village. The poor people
+left everything they possessed behind, and took refuge in all directions
+among their friends. The people at the next village, where there was a
+flourishing school, took fright also, and cleared out of their homes
+leaving a fine handsome school-house and a new church almost finished.
+The boy added that as soon as Vulatewa was dead the sickness was stayed.
+We did no watering this evening as the tide did not suit. After a very
+quiet night at anchor on
+
+
+_Wednesday, 21st July._--We started watering ship. This is a busy
+process and keeps everyone on board well employed. Two large canvas
+tanks are fitted into each boat, and fastened underneath the thwarts.
+Into these the water is poured from buckets until both are full, a
+suction pump and hose on board empties these canvas tanks into iron
+receptacles under the floor of the schoolroom, and one boatload fills
+about a tank and a half. Seven or eight loads of water therefore
+finished the watering to-day. When everything was finished, the boys and
+girls went ashore to wash their clothes and bathe, and this day here is
+always looked forward to. The people came down from Tanrig in the
+morning, and I was busy packing up my things. After lunch I went ashore
+and started away the bearers with my belongings. How they managed to
+carry all the heavy boxes and a big harmonium up the hill and on for
+three or four miles, I don’t know, but they did it, and did not think
+much of it. I went on board again, and thanks to the Captain’s kindness,
+I got the loan of one of the ship’s boats, my own having been stolen by
+a labour ship last year. After an early dinner, escorted by Arthur, &c.,
+I left for Tanrig. It was just getting dusk when I arrived, and I had no
+time to put anything straight. We had Evensong, and after that I
+prepared for bed. The mosquitos were somewhat numerous, but it was too
+late to get out my net, and so I put up with their music, and soon was
+oblivious of their singing or teasing. It seems quite natural to be here
+again, and as is usual the place has not changed at all. The boys
+however, have built me a beautiful new house, and I shall live in great
+comfort. I miss several faces too from the congregation, whom death has
+removed.
+
+
+_Thursday, 22nd July._--I left the _Southern Cross_ last night expecting
+to get away early this morning, which I suppose she did. However I am so
+far away from the sea, that I have no means of knowing what she did.
+Naturally too, I was very busy this first day ashore. The first business
+after Morning Prayer, was to start off Samuel and the Tasmouri
+contingent who had spent the night here. They had a good many things to
+receive, but they got away in time to reach home before night. There
+were numbers of other things to be done also, such as putting the new
+window in the Church, unpacking the harmonium, making a platform for it,
+&c. The old mode of life seems to come back wonderfully naturally to me.
+Breakfast of rice, with sugar and cocoanut milk, and afterwards a cup
+of delicious Norfolk Island coffee, for which delicacy I am indebted to
+my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher Nobbs. My midday meal is a bit of
+biscuit or roasted yam, and I reserve myself for the great meal of the
+day in the evening, not sumptuous but amply sufficient, fried rasher of
+bacon, fried taro pancake, and most excellent potatoes, for which I am
+indebted to Mr. Alfred Nobbs at Norfolk Island. After this I have a cup
+of milkless tea, which I brew in that charming teapot sent me from China
+by Dr. Codrington. They say ‘enough is as good as a feast,’ and I
+suppose this is why I am perfectly satisfied with this rough meal. After
+dinner I have nothing again till next morning.
+
+
+_Friday, 23rd July._--A most superb morning, and the place looks very
+charming early in the day and in the evening, at midday there is a
+strong glare and it is almost too dazzling. The church looks most
+picturesque and pretty, nestling in a perfect forest of bright coloured
+shrubs, among which are many European representatives, _e.g._ the
+Poinsettia, the Geranium, Marvel of Peru, and others imported from
+Norfolk Island. Arthur certainly has expended great pains and taste in
+the plantation, and it amply rewards him. Outside the stone fence is an
+orange grove, the dark green of which stands out in bold relief against
+the bright colours within. The church is still in a good state of
+preservation and will last for some time yet. It is getting
+inconveniently small however, and will soon want enlarging. It bears
+evident signs of being made good use of, and they tell me the
+congregation morning and evening is never short of 50 or 60. In a very
+short time I hope this will be a purely Christian village, and that not
+only in name, but in deed and in truth. I see considerable change here
+since I left in the number of the new houses, and the care of the town,
+for such it now has a right to be called. Before long the Church will be
+the centre of a number of private residences, and the people begin to
+build better houses. Arthur has constructed his like mine with high
+walls caned all round, and made it very comfortable.
+
+Except the ground floor my house is quite as nice as a one roomed
+boarded house. The school and church are almost contiguous, and both are
+strong, substantial buildings. There are at present 80 names of scholars
+on the books, and these are regular attendants. I hope before I leave,
+please God, to see that number augmented. At present we are strong in
+teachers, with the two Arthurs, Patrick, Harry, Duwu, Tilegi, Kate and
+Agnes. This morning after service, a shortened form of Mattins with a
+hymn, we had school, and I hope progress has been made. I was pleased to
+hear the teachers questioning their classes on the subject about which
+they had been reading. The perseverance of the old men in puzzling out
+the dreary sheets is perfectly astonishing, but they will not be denied.
+They have, however, learnt much by heart, e.g. Lord’s Prayer, Creed, Te
+Deum, &c. The women are quite as persevering, if not more so, and I
+don’t like to damp their ardour by forbidding them to try and learn to
+read. The first class of girls are far away ahead of the boys, and know
+a very great deal. These same girls used to sing very nicely, but they
+have got into the most disagreeable drawl, and so far from following a
+leader, they take the bit between their teeth, and sing as fancy
+dictates. This I shall try and remedy before I leave again. We have now
+a harmonium for our services, thanks to the very great kindness of my
+friend and benefactress in England, Miss Mount, who is far more
+beneficent than I at all deserve. The two Arthurs play very fairly well,
+but Arthur Huqe is organist at present. After school I had visitors from
+Golvanua, a populous district some ten or twelve miles from here. They
+are very peculiar people and very wild, I am sorry to say I have only
+been there once, and that only a flying visit. I told them I was coming
+again soon, and they seemed pleased. I gave the head man some tobacco,
+and he said when I came to their place he would give me food and take
+care of me. Our people here are rather terrified of them, and the
+distance is so great that very few have ever been there. There were two
+nice little boys with them, and I asked them if they were not tired, but
+they scouted the idea.
+
+I was so busy all day that I did not get away from home, and things
+begin to be a bit more ship-shape. I begin to feel very comfortable in
+my new house, but I dare say if my friends saw me, they would fancy it
+was far from comfort. However, I have a continual feast in a contented
+mind. In the evening, instead of school, we had singing, into which I
+endeavoured to infuse some life and harmony, and partially succeeded,
+but not to my taste quite yet. Then in the evening I held a teacher’s
+class, and we had much profitable conversation.
+
+
+_Saturday, 24th July._--This is observed by us as a whole holiday, and
+after Morning Prayer nothing is required of the school till the evening
+service. Arthur Aruduliwar decided to have his house thatched to-day,
+and a large party assembled to help him. Here they do everything by
+means of ‘Bees,’ (working parties). ‘Bees’ dig the gardens, plant the
+crops, dig the food, build the houses. The women do the cooking, and the
+owner of the house makes the feast, this is all he has to do, he is not
+supposed himself to do any work. Next week they are going to thatch a
+gamal, more stupendous work, and a great many people are going to be
+engaged, and there is to be much feasting, and I believe a dance.
+Marvellous harmony prevails in this community at present, and I never
+hear a harsh expression, nor witness a passionate action. They are the
+merriest, happiest, most contented people I ever saw, and I think the
+best natured. A party from Tasmouri appeared during the morning, and
+Thomas Aruloli among them. I asked him to stay the night, but he replied
+that it was his Sunday at Tasmate to-morrow, and he would not like to
+miss. I was pleased at this, for it showed the boy’s conscientiousness
+with respect to his self-imposed duty. I gave him his goods, and he and
+the others started again soon after for home. These natives don’t seem
+to know what fatigue is, and this double journey, which I should be
+sorry to undertake, they make nothing of it. After a frugal lunch the
+boys and I went to Ruos, where we bathed and washed our clothes. The
+river is certainly a boon and a blessing, and a good bathe has a most
+invigorating effect on one. In the evening the teachers came in and sat
+a long time with me, and we had much suitable conversation. While they
+were sitting here, a sound, which I had heard all day and couldn’t find
+the reason of, kept going on continually, and I asked Arthur what it
+was. He told me it was a bamboo placed high up on a top branch of a
+banyan tree in front of my house, in which notches were cut below each
+joint, and when the wind blew strong it sounded in the bamboo with the
+same effect that would be produced by so many persons blowing at once
+into the several orifices. This seemed to me very ingenious, but Arthur
+Huqe tells me they have the same practice at Opa. They say when the wind
+blows strong the sound is heard a great distance off, and I can quite
+imagine it.
+
+We heard this evening the reports of two big guns in the direction of
+the watering place, so it is conjectured that a vessel is at anchor
+there. However it was too late to go and see.
+
+
+_Sunday, 25th July._--First Sunday ashore at Maewo, and a very quiet and
+pleasant day it has been. I think too, it has been one of the most
+gloriously brilliant days I have ever seen. The morning was beautiful,
+the midday marvellously resplendent, and the evening indescribably
+lovely. The place did look so beautiful too. I told the people they
+ought never to cease praising God for so beautiful a heritage as He had
+given them. They have not a want or a care, but I fear they fail to
+appreciate the beauty, according to the truth of the old adage which
+speaks of familiarity breeding contempt. We had Sunday school very
+early, for two reasons more especially, (1) because it is cooler in the
+morning, (2) because we are not plagued with blowflies which appear in
+untold numbers wherever there is any congregation of people.
+
+After a short interval devoted to breakfast, we had Mattins, and after
+this a short service and an address for the teachers. We had a very few
+strangers present to-day, but all our own people turned up. We did away
+with the great midday feast to-day for the first time for many years,
+but some of the women cooked a large quantity of food which was
+distributed to the boys in the usual way. This food business had become
+too laborious, and too much the chief part of the day, so that I fancied
+a relaxation for a time would be beneficial.
+
+Patrick went to Mandurvat to take service there, but I stayed at Tanrig.
+At six different stations, school and service have been held and the day
+duly observed.
+
+Evensong was a pleasant service here, and the church looked very nice
+lit up with the new lamps. The strains of the harmonium too, gave an
+additional pathos and homeliness to the occasion. I gave an address on
+the Gospel for 5th Sunday after Trinity, which I think was understood
+and appreciated. We had much singing afterwards and the public part of
+the day ended with the Blessing. May that blessing ever rest upon us
+here and elsewhere, and may we always endeavour to do all to God’s
+glory.
+
+
+_Monday, 26th July._--I reckoned without my host last night when I
+rashly permitted Agnes and Kate to cook for me this week at their own
+request. They made a tremendous fuss about it, but the rice came to
+table uncooked, and in such a small quantity that my breakfast was
+spoilt and the coffee was anything but good. However they did their best
+and I dare say to-morrow they will do all right. They were both
+wonderfully good, and not only washed up for me but gave my premises a
+good sweep as well. Poor Agnes, she is hideously lame, but she pretends
+to the liveliness of a kitten. The fence around the school is rather
+high and I watched her endeavours to get over with her lameness and her
+petticoats. She managed better than I expected, but I stood by in
+readiness to lend her a helping hand in case she fell. She comes back
+fully impressed with a sense of her importance and dignity after so
+many years absence, and her friends made a great deal of her. To-day she
+is off with the other women on some excursion or other, and is fully
+convinced that she is as active as any of them. Before long no doubt she
+will fancy herself useful and engaging enough to be the life partner of
+Tilegi, and to be the faithful companion of his joys and sorrows. She is
+an intelligent girl, and her long training at Norfolk Island ought to
+make her useful here. She is perfectly charmed with her home, and she
+sees very plainly the beneficial results produced by Christianity. When
+she left, she herself was among the few baptized, now she comes back to
+the bosom of a Christian community with a good church and school, daily
+Morning and Evening Prayers, and perfect harmony and good will among all
+men. She will miss little at home now of what she has grown accustomed
+to at Norfolk Island, and it must be a pleasant realization to her. The
+girls, too, with whom she will have daily association are all
+Christians, and she will be spared the shock and repulsion of heathen
+women’s talk and actions. Her father has died in the interval, a truly
+godly man in his life, and a believer at the time of his death.
+
+There is no face I miss here more than that of James, a true and
+faithful friend to me, and I firmly believe, too, of our Lord and
+Saviour Jesus Christ. Arthur tells me his death was perfectly peaceful
+and happy, and he desired at the last to depart and be with Christ which
+was far better. His two children followed him, and the three lie side by
+side in the quiet and rest of the grave. A reputed mother, but one who
+is really an aunt, Amina, takes charge of Agnes until Tilegi or some one
+else claims her as a bride, for in spite of her deformity I suppose she
+will not eschew marriage herself, or be allowed to remain in single
+blessedness by her friends, for here young ladies are not over
+plentiful, and to judge by the appearance of some already married there
+is no accounting for taste among the men of the place. Elizabeth, the
+wife of James, has found solace in another partner, but she spoke of her
+former husband with a due amount of grief and tears, and said to me,
+pointing in the direction of his grave, “He lies asleep over there.”
+
+Yet there are here those who are ‘widows indeed,’ and good old Dorcas is
+one such. This old lady well deserves her name, for she is full of alms
+deeds, and kindness to all, and I firmly believe is a true follower of
+Jesus Christ. She lives alone with a little grandchild in her own hut
+and trains up dutifully the child in the way she should go. Very seldom
+is old Dorcas away from her seat in church, and she exercises a benign
+and gentle influence over her own sex in the village. Anna, another good
+old widow, has died in my absence, and the loss of such is much felt.
+Among the younger women there is a perfect colony of children, and this
+is most thankworthy as being a proof that infanticide has been quite
+stamped out, and formerly it seemed to be a sort of religious duty here.
+Children were looked upon as being uncanny as well as a nuisance, and if
+the mother did not kill her offspring herself, she found plenty of
+aiders and abettors in the old midwives who attended her. The father
+seemed utterly impotent to prevent the evil. Now the fathers have turned
+head nurses and are abundantly proud of their children.
+
+This morning after Prayers and school I walked down to the river side at
+Rarava, whither almost the entire population had preceded me, and where
+I lit upon a busy scene. It was a most resplendent day, but the
+overhanging branches of the wide spreading foliage lent a charm and
+grateful shade to the occasion. The men were engaged in digging the
+‘taro’ roots, from their irrigated beds, and the women busy washing and
+preparing them for culinary purposes. The ladies here, present no
+exception to a proverbial excess in the use of the ‘unruly member’ as
+the especially noticeable characteristic of the gentler sex in more
+favoured parts of the world, and a Babel-like clatter of tongues formed
+a striking accompaniment to the quietness and order of the work in hand.
+The taro beds of course are mud, pure and simple, and the taro when dug
+is a very dirty vegetable, it is covered over besides with long
+tenacious feelers for roots, and these are picked off with the fingers
+in the most skilled and practised manner much after the fashion of
+plucking and preparing a bird for table. When the cleaning and plucking
+process is perfected, the long stalks are collected to a head and tied
+up in convenient bundles with one of their own parts in the most
+ingenious and knowing manner. Two bundles are then arranged on one long
+pole, and carried by one bearer on the shoulder, one bundle before and
+another behind their backs. The weight is considerable, but here the
+burden is borne by the men, the women carry the broad leaves and other
+concomitants of native cookery. Beyond the cackle there was very much
+merriment which all seemed in accord with the dancing sparkling waters
+of the clear flowing river. The prospect around was most beautiful and
+although not extensive the landscape was most bewitching, and the eye
+was never tired with seeing.
+
+These natives have great natural taste, which is displayed to a far
+greater degree in the arrangement and beautifying of their yam and taro
+gardens here, than in any other island I have seen.
+
+The broad, handsome evergreen taro leaf spreads its verdure right and
+left, and all around, amid the friendship of the gay-leaved croton, the
+majestic dracæna, and the vari-coloured hibiscus, while here and there,
+to vary the prospect, the graceful cocoanut lends the beauty and
+elegance of its chastely spreading branches; all this beauty is thrown
+into relief by a back ground of the most marvellously beautiful bush,
+which shuts it in as with a natural fence, and leaves the only wish and
+feeling with the observer just to get for a moment a peep of what lies
+beyond. Breaks here and there however, in the background, revealed
+distant hills clad to their very summits with a richness and profusion
+of vegetation such as always abounds in these lovely islands where
+‘every prospect pleases.’ I could select so many subjects for pictures
+here as almost to finish up all my dry plates, my only hope is that I
+may meet with some measure of success when by and bye I try my hand at
+photography. A header into the cool waters and a swim up and down stream
+was very refreshing. The boys enlivened the scene by their merriment and
+gambolling in the water, and altogether it was an occasion of much
+delight, and not the less so to me when I considered that all these
+people, almost without exception, had passed before through the healing
+waters of Holy Baptism. As possessing so much of the element, it is
+perhaps only natural that these people should love the water, and bathe
+a great deal more than their appearance would give one reason to
+suspect. The boys, and more especially, I think, the girls, are very
+fond of the water, and never seem tired of bathing when near the
+river-side. ‘Tanrig’ is distant about two miles from the river, and this
+distance, although inconvenient for many reasons, is very convenient for
+others, and especially because of the mosquitos which abound in the
+neighbourhood. Here some times they are bad enough, but by the
+water-side they are, I believe, unbearable. I know I find them
+troublesome enough there by day, and I don’t care to experience the
+worry and misery of them by night. They are called here ‘namu,’ and are
+said to be particularly troublesome at a certain period in the growth
+and maturity of the yam.
+
+Any one who has not lived in a tropical country can have very little
+conception of the discomfort and worry of these little maddening
+tormentors. Yet there are others whose attacks produce more serious
+consequences, and an illustration was afforded this evening. “Kate
+Tevano” (Arthur’s wife) was coming across to my house, and when almost
+at my door she gave a scream of terror and retired at once back again. I
+rushed out to learn the cause, and found she had been bitten by a
+centipede in the toe. The blood was just oozing out, and there were the
+distinct marks of his two fangs. In about ten minutes she was in great
+agony, and in the course of the evening her foot swelled and the pain
+was most terrible, and she couldn’t bear anything near it. Poor child, I
+left her in floods of bitter tears before going to bed, and she expected
+to be in pain all night long. The natives have some antidote for it, and
+the women were applying that all the evening. I confess that I did not
+know myself what to do, except to bathe it with hot water. There was a
+great hunt for the venomous little reptile, but of course he had made
+himself scarce. How he got on her foot, and why he bit her, no one
+knows, but there are multitudes of the creatures here, and perhaps the
+mystery is that people are not more often bitten. They have scorpions
+too here whose bite is very venomous, but one doesn’t often hear of
+their biting. There is a very large ant here called the ‘gandee’ to
+which I have a great aversion, and its bite is very sharp. Snakes here
+are not venomous, but the people have an instinctive dread of them, but
+they do not trouble us much. There is a hideous creature which lives in
+the thatch of the houses, an ugly toad-like lizard, with large red
+prominent eyes, which has such a tenacity of grasp with its feet that it
+sometimes even sticks so tight to the person it attacks as to take away
+the very skin in its grasp. Indeed, to me there are many strange and
+uncanny creatures in these islands to which I give as wide a berth as
+possible. Even in putting on your clothes you may find that a scorpion
+or centipede have taken up their quarters, in your hat you may find
+another monster, while most likely your shoes will be the tenement of
+some hideous reptile. Use and experience cannot rid one of a shudder
+when one thinks what may be, and yet if one is always anticipating these
+evils one’s very life becomes a burden.
+
+
+_Tuesday, 27th July._--I visited poor Kate this morning as soon as I got
+up, and found her still in considerable pain and her foot a good deal
+swollen. She had slept but little during the night, and was still very
+tearful. However, her friends assured her that the poisonous effects
+would soon pass away, and it proved true, for I saw her walking, or
+rather limping about during the course of the forenoon. I was anxious to
+see a centipede this morning, and by and bye a man came bringing one
+which he held tightly by head and tail. It was a pretty creature and not
+so black as some I have seen, the legs indeed were of an orange yellow
+colour. It tried very hard to riggle away, but the ruthless boys soon
+put an end to its existence. How many legs it actually has I did not
+stop to count, but I saw its nasty fangs and preferred keeping a
+respectable distance from them.
+
+A nasty lizard such as I have before mentioned was shortly after
+discovered in the thatch of my house just over my head, and captured
+after an exciting hunt. One creeps when these creatures are brought so
+near one, and is thankful for daily protection from them.
+
+To-day has been the occasion of an important event here, viz: the
+thatching of a gamal (men’s quarters). This, indeed, is one of the
+greatest events known here, and there has been much feasting and
+festivity. The men do the thatching, and neighbours and strangers from a
+distance come to assist. There must have been quite a hundred men at
+work to-day, and it was the part and duty of the women to prepare food
+for them, and judging by the quantity spread out to-night they must have
+been kept pretty busy at work.
+
+The house was a large one, and it took most of the day to finish it. The
+roof when complete was most neat, and a perfect protection from heat and
+wet for many years to come. The thatch is made from the frond of the
+sago palm and very durable. Cocoanut fronds are sometimes used, but they
+do not make so neat a roof nor nearly so lasting.
+
+These native houses, although seemingly such poor structures, take some
+time and skill in building, and are very fair habitations when finished.
+They are rather low according to our ideas of comfort, but the natives
+grow accustomed to a crouching posture within doors, and they say the
+low roof does not catch the wind so easily, nor is the interior so cold.
+This is a consideration for people with no clothing, and I know myself
+from experience how cool it sometimes is here. Indeed, this very year I
+have never passed a night without being covered with a blanket, and even
+then I have not quite kept the cold away. A native, however, generally
+sleeps near a fire, and the interior of their houses are very snug.
+After the work was done this evening there was a great brew of kava, a
+drink made from the root of the kava plant, but here called “Malowo,”
+and highly intoxicating. There is much ceremony in connection with the
+drinking of this beverage, which as far as I have seen, if taken in fair
+moderation, produces strong inebriation, but is not an excitant, nor
+does it leave any ill effects when once the narcotic effects pass off.
+Any one who drinks is supposed to do so fasting, in order, I believe,
+that the draught may have the more effect. One or two cups are enough to
+produce intoxication, but of course men will make beasts of themselves
+in the drinking of kava, as well as of any other strong drink. Here it
+is prepared from the green root, and grated up with a rough, round coral
+stone, then squeezed into cups made of the half of a cocoanut shell,
+strained and mixed with water, after which it is ready for imbibation.
+To look at it is like soap suds, and to the taste it is like what I
+should suppose that compound resembled, with an additional admixture of
+rhubarb and magnesia, with a suspicion of strong senna or black draught.
+Indeed I think it is about the nastiest potion conceivable, and no
+wonder the drinker takes an unconscionably long time in swallowing the
+compound, and when finished would almost rather he had never drunk it. I
+was very glad to see most of our own people at school and prayers, but I
+believe some have reserved the ‘nightcap’ till nearer bed-time. When the
+drowsiness is over I believe a craving for food results, and then the
+appetite is appeased even if it be in the middle of the night.
+Certainly, however, a man is never quarrelsome over his cups, but a
+drowsiness and torpor creep over the most quarrelsome and irrepressive
+after the draught. The mode of preparation similar to that practised
+here obtains in all the Northern New Hebrides, as far as I know, but at
+Mota and the Banks’ Islands generally, and in Fiji it is prepared by a
+process of mastication, and is not nearly so intoxicating in its
+effects. At Santa Cruz and in the Solomon Islands the use of the kava is
+unknown, but instead they chew the betel nut.
+
+I had the old men for school to-night, and very interesting it was, old
+blind Sulu (Daniel) was among the number and paid the greatest
+attention, assenting in a marked fashion when anything especially
+pleased him. Poor fellow, he finds wonderful comfort in his religion,
+and is a most regular attendant at all services and at school. He gets
+about wonderfully in spite of his blindness, and does wonderful things
+for a man so totally blind. His patience and cheerfulness under his
+affliction are marvellous, and he seems to live in hopeful anticipation
+of the time when he shall see his Lord and Master face to face, Whom now
+he sees with the inward eyes of his spirit. He is the only blind man
+here, and I have never seen but one dumb man in these islands.
+
+
+_Wednesday, 28th July._--Our people had a great dance last night after
+school which they kept up with great spirit and vigour until an early
+hour this morning. The occasion was the thatching of the new gamal, and
+a great many took part, and never once intermitted their vigour from the
+start to the finish. The dance is called a “Sagoro,” but the chief part
+of it consists of singing with a clapping of hands and peculiar dancing
+in time. It is no easy work, and when I went to see them about the
+middle of the performance the perspiration was running down their
+bodies. Some of the songs are very pretty, but the movement of the dance
+is not particularly graceful or elegant. The women stand in a ring
+outside, and what is called “weluwelu.” This ‘weluing’ consists in
+keeping the feet close together and moving the knees from right to left
+besides joining in the chorus. Their shrill voices sound quite weird
+along with the deep tones of the males, but by no means discordant.
+Native songs have mostly an air sung by one voice, and a chorus joined
+in by all, and these Maewoese are noted for their songs. I did not
+attempt to go to sleep before the performance was over, and the
+consequence was a slight dilatoriness this morning, which as might be
+expected, was not only manifest in my case. However, after morning
+duties here I started with Arthur Huqe and Patrick for Mandurvat,
+passing through the pretty snug little village of Naruru on the way.
+Here we found a man by name ‘Tamaragai’ sitting with his pretty wife and
+child in the neat enclosure in front of his house. All the other
+denizens of the village according to the invariable custom which
+prevails here, had scattered to the four winds. After the dew is off the
+bushes here there is a general exodus from all the villages, and at noon
+it is useless to look for any one at home, for all are abroad. They are
+very industrious people and find perpetual occupation in their gardens
+or elsewhere from morning till evening. They say if they stay at home
+they do nothing but sleep, and a native has not many resources for
+occupying his time indoors. They have a great dread of the dew, for they
+say it engenders elephantiasis. Cases of this unpleasant disease are
+very prevalent here, and it looks very odd to see men and women with
+great swollen legs and feet and monster hands and arms. However, those
+afflicted with it do not seem to suffer so much pain as discomfort.
+
+We reached our destination after a somewhat weary walk on account of the
+dampness of the roads after the heavy rain in the night. I found a nice
+new school, and the teachers awaiting my arrival. The population is
+small, but the people are well-intentioned and anxious for instruction
+as exhibited by their having built the school entirely themselves. The
+leading spirit there and his wife came to-day and asked for Baptism, and
+desired that they should at once be put under instruction for that
+sacred Rite. This was cheering, and I hope the example thus set will be
+largely followed. Food according to native custom had been prepared, and
+green cocoanuts, and we spent some considerable time with the kind
+hearted people. They have only an inferior teacher, but he is very
+zealous to do his best according to the amount of wisdom and knowledge
+he possesses. They have some sort of daily service and school, but it
+must of necessity be very elementary.
+
+It is etiquette here for the host or someone appointed by him to see you
+off the premises, and this afternoon we were escorted some distance from
+the village by most of the male population, and when at what was looked
+upon as a respectable distance they stepped to one side, a sign that
+that was the last we should have of their society, and calling my name
+the host said, “Iya, go sage,” which is perhaps equal to “There, you go
+up,” to which I was supposed to respond calling his name, “Io, go toga,”
+“All right, you stop.” We then started for home. Arriving at Na Ruru the
+major part of the population were awaiting us, and Anthony the teacher
+with them, fear has driven him and his little flock to take refuge here,
+the third exodus they have made from their homes, and it is hoped that
+at last they will be safe from the ruthless incursions of the heathen
+bushmen. Poor fellow, he had begun to build a substantial new church,
+which was left with the other houses in their precipitate flight, but
+nothing daunted he has begun a third time to collect materials for
+another building. Had they continued however where they were, I doubt if
+they would have been molested. The only excuse for so doing would have
+been that they were friends of the villagers attacked by the bushmen. We
+sat for some time in conversation with the friendly people until the
+sinking sun warned us to be up and moving homewards. After prayers and
+singing, which we always have by an unvariable custom instead of school
+on Wednesday evenings, I received a request from some heathen strangers,
+twenty in number, that they might dance before me. I assented, and now
+at a late hour they are still at it, and going ahead with such vigour
+that I do not like to stop them. This dance is a piece of policy, for I
+am supposed to give them a handsome gratuity at the end, and the request
+to-night has been for tobacco. I am supposed also to be very liberal on
+these occasions, and certainly they have earned their wages. Their dance
+is very like that of the Tanrig people, but of course the songs are
+somewhat different, and to my taste not so pleasing. It is certainly
+curious that people living really in such close proximity should speak a
+dialect so utterly different that I can scarcely understand a word they
+say. I always assent to their dancing for it brings them here in large
+numbers, and for no ulterior purposes, and I like in every way to
+cultivate all friendly feeling between ourselves and our neighbours.
+Their powers of endurance are wonderful, there were many small boys
+among the dancers to-night, and the hands of my watch pointed to nearly
+2 o’clock a.m. before they finished, and previously they must have
+walked some twelve or fifteen miles over very rugged country. It must be
+considered too that these dances are performed without any intermission,
+and carried through with great vigour to the very end. I believe they
+had contemplated going on till morning, but that would be too terrible.
+Now as I write this they are gone, and the place is as quiet as if I
+were alone the sole inhabitant. I am now quite ready for bed and have
+really been so for hours, but the din and noise would render sleep an
+impossibility. God grant that in time these heathen songs may be changed
+for Christian hymns.
+
+
+_Thursday, 29th July._--My house has been thronged all day with heathen
+visitors, and I have tried to say something about our blessed religion.
+I hope they were duly impressed. They certainly gave me a warm
+invitation to visit them which I shall not be backward to accept, and
+moreover they promised to pick me out two or three boys to go to Norfolk
+Island. One man was most anxious to visit Norfolk Island, and I promised
+him that if he were so minded when the ship came back his wish should be
+gratified. I dare say I was quite safe in my promise, for no doubt he
+will cry off at the last. However, I hope I may get the boys. Everything
+was a matter of astonishment to these poor people, who have rarely if
+ever seen a white man, and a trumpet and pop gun which I gave a small
+boy produced the most unbounded delight. I wish my good friend
+Archdeacon Stock and Miss Kreeft had been here to see what unfeigned joy
+their kind gifts produced. A prettily dressed doll I brought with me,
+and which came too, I think, from Wellington, has been the seven day
+wonder during my visit. Yesterday one of the boys threw it down by
+accident, and the frail waxwork fell to pieces. There has been more
+lament over that lifeless toy than over half a dozen ordinary female
+human beings. Agnes, however, this morning disgorged a beautiful doll of
+her own, which she got from a Christmas tree, carefully wrapped in ample
+folds of calico, and the Bushmen I think will never lose the impression
+the revelation of its beauty produced upon them.
+
+How true it is that little things please little minds, and what a boon
+it is that the adage is so true. To us, whom civilization and the
+natural fitness of things have raised so far above nature, it is a
+matter of a striking character to see these heathens on their travels.
+They are burdened with absolutely nothing except a club or bow and
+arrows in their hands. Their dress is but a slight remove from the
+original fig leaf of the garden of Eden, and they carry neither bedding
+nor food. They sleep anywhere and eat what they can get. Their endurance
+in the matter of food too is extraordinary, whether they eat or whether
+they eat not does not seem to affect them, and in this way they beat us
+all to fits on the march. These Bushmen tell me they prefer making a
+journey in rain for it is cooler, and the only change of raiment they
+need at the end is to dry nature’s clothing before a fire. They are a
+very hardy race, I suppose from being inured to hardship all their
+lives.
+
+I missed poor blind Sulu from school to-day, and on enquiring for him
+was told that his pet pig, whose tusks are getting long and very sharp,
+importuned him beyond bearing, and that in kicking out to get rid of him
+the tusk ran into his foot and almost right through it. Poor old fellow,
+I am going by and bye to see what I can do to administer comfort to him.
+
+Arthur too is very much out of sorts, and could not put in an appearance
+at school to-day. For some months he has suffered from lassitude and
+weakness, and has been troubled with nasty sores. Fortunately I have a
+bottle of Hop Bitters with me, the effect of which I am going to try
+with him. Fancy the popularity of this wonderful tonic when it even
+finds its way to these distant islands! I have known it used with very
+beneficial results, and I hope Arthur may improve under its influence
+and strengthening properties.
+
+
+_Friday, July 30th._--A somewhat idle and prurient curiosity led me with
+some of our people to ‘Uta’ this morning to witness a sort of masked
+ball about which I had heard a great deal, and which was supposed to be
+something quite extraordinary. We started fairly early in the morning,
+and arrived at the place after a long, hot, and fatiguing walk. The
+ceremonies were not perfectly arranged when we got there, and we waited
+a long, weary time. It was mainly through my urging that they began when
+they did, and after all the affair was disappointing.
+
+The initial performance was a song sung by four men to an accompaniment
+beaten on bamboos, but that was by no means impressive. The females
+during this performance advanced and squatted around the performers and
+poor things were almost roasted alive under the blazing rays of the
+midday sun. When the song was finished the maskers rushed out, 17 in
+number with very curious and savage-looking head pieces, and petticoats
+of long sago palm leaves reaching almost to the ground. They presented a
+very weird and uncanny appearance certainly as they danced forth and
+back and uttered their gruff “Ugh, ugh, ugh, ugh.” I do not wonder at
+weak minded females and small children being very terrified of them. The
+head pieces were decided works of art, and very well made. Thirteen were
+almost entirely of the same make and pattern and are called “Rauwe,”
+three were again somewhat of a different shape and fashion called
+“Tamate,” and one very elongated and strangely devised mask also called
+a ‘Tamate’ completed the list. When the dancing was over which was
+called ‘Welu,’ the Rauwes rushed flying about all over the place, and
+the wiser course was to keep out of their way. In former days I believe
+they carried heavy sticks, or even clubs, and struck at anyone who
+failed to get out of their way. Boys and females were the chief objects
+of their attacks, and sometimes considerable injury resulted. Of course
+if any one retaliated and gave blow for blow, a skrimmage of perhaps
+serious and general nature resulted, and ended probably in lives being
+sacrificed.
+
+To-day these rough maskers carried clubs and long handled axes, and
+nothing was feared from them. The tamates were much more quiet and
+danced quietly about like so many kiwis (native New Zealand bird), and
+molested no one. They represent a higher grade in the social scale and
+their intentions are always pacific. For some days after the ceremony
+they are allowed to sail about the country and take what they please in
+the shape of food, &c. if it happens to come in their way, indeed I
+believe the people put it out for them and render every assistance to
+send them away full handed. The tamate mask has no eyehole, but the
+rauwe head piece has every facility for observation to facilitate its
+hilter skilter rush. The native idea of these things I believe is that
+if anyone dies who has not paid for these masks, he is haunted by them
+in the hereafter, at their places of departed spirits, “Banoi.” The
+tamates protect the disembodied spirits and conduct them safely to their
+final destination in Banoi. Moreover, I believe that those who die
+without propitiating these tamates and rauwes by gifts of pigs and mats
+are transformed into flying foxes, and adorn for ever the courts of an
+ill-fated Banoi. When the ‘welu’ was over, great cakes of cooked food
+were disgorged from their covering of leaves and distributed, the men
+behind a very curious screen called “Bugoro” distributing to men, and
+the women on one side of the village square distributing to women. The
+busy and animated scene was often disturbed by one or more of the rauwes
+rushing wildly about, and the women utterly regardless of food or
+hospitality, tore hilter skilter in screams of terror to some place of
+temporary security. It was now getting late, and as we had a journey
+before us and the performance was virtually over, except the kava
+drinking, we wished our friend good-bye and started for home, getting
+here in time for dinner, both by the time of day and by the condition of
+an appetite which had not been appeased since morning. On the whole I do
+not think the ceremony was at all worth the labour it cost to witness,
+and having seen it once, one would scarcely care to trouble about it a
+second time. However, it has its due effect upon the natives of both
+sexes, and it is looked upon by many as of paramount importance as
+regards both the present time and the future. To the newly initiated it
+gives certain social rights and privileges, but the strict observance
+with many is a thing of the past. It has only to do with the males,
+females may enjoy no special benefit from the practice except to assist
+as ornamental observers, and to bring beast burdens of food for
+distribution. What becomes of their poor souls hereafter is a matter for
+no anxiety or consideration, indeed I suppose the doubt is as to their
+possessing such things as souls at all, so that their final destination
+can only be a matter of supreme indifference and of the most
+insignificant importance. A hazy indefinite belief therefore these
+people have in some hereafter, and they endeavour to make some provision
+for it while they can, but they have no distinct form of religion, nor
+any images to which they offer worship. They have some kind of
+propitiatory sacrifice however of food and shell money, and whatever
+prayer they have is made to the spirits of their ancestors. Almost
+invariably a dying man calls to his father, and we have frequently
+noticed that when a sick person arrives at this stage of illness, his
+case is very bad indeed, if not hopeless. Yesterday as we were waiting
+at the entrance to the village, the people called my attention to a
+peculiar kind of red grass which had been chewed up, and the refuse
+strewn about all over the path, and they told me that this was done by
+the master of ceremonies to make the visitors take delight and interest
+in the festivities, and to raise the wish in the minds of the
+uninitiated to swell the ranks of those who had already taken the
+initiatory steps in social rank. Like all natives of course these people
+are utterly superstitious, and any little thing of a slightly
+extraordinary nature serves to determine or deter their mode of action.
+There is a certain class of persons among them who read these signs and
+comment upon them, just as the ancient oracles, and these persons are
+consulted in every matter of public or private interest. No one takes a
+journey or engages in any matter without recourse to this oracle, but as
+of old in case of failure, the matter is explained ambiguously.
+Superstition indeed creeps into almost every concern of daily life, and
+its effect upon one would be very wearying and irritating, except of
+course that superior mindedness ought to condescend and bear with such
+human frailties when one considers the education under which these poor
+folks have been brought up from generation to generation. Much, I think,
+of this weak mindedness is passing away under Christian regime, and more
+and more I suppose will it disappear as the day breaks and the shadows
+flee away.
+
+
+_Saturday, July 31st._--A peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed that I
+could not sleep even under a blanket. The people all experienced the
+same cold, and they said it was because of the calmness of the night and
+the heavy dew. Had there been a fire near, I could readily have got up
+to sit over it. The nights here are generally cool, but last night was
+absolutely cold. What shall I do when I go to England? This morning
+however, it is supremely lovely, and the wind in the S.W. for a wonder,
+for the S.E. Trades usually blow nine months out of the twelve. This
+morning I tried a photograph, which I dare say will prove a failure,
+from the extra care I took to prevent all mistakes. I only attempted
+one, but I hope I shall gain courage and experience as I go on and be
+able to reproduce some of these lovely views here. Of course every view
+is shut in more or less by the density of the surrounding bush, but this
+village has a considerable clearing and a good long vista for a
+photograph. My first attempt was on the church with some natives in the
+foreground, but the view will miss a great deal in a picture, owing to
+the absence of the beautiful colouring. It seems the fashion now-a-days
+here to build houses, and large parties to-day were busy thatching two
+new ones. I went with Patrick, Arthur Huqe and some more of the boys to
+Ruosi where we had a delicious bathe in the river, washed our clothes,
+caught prawns which we cooked very ingeniously in a bamboo. The prawns
+are put into the bamboo with water, and then placed on the fire with the
+orifice slightly elevated. It soon starts boiling, and to prevent the
+bamboo (always a green one) burning through it is constantly turned
+round and round, and in a very short time the prawns come out cooked
+red, and ready for eating. Cooked in salt water they are very nice, and
+they are looked upon as an especial delicacy when eaten with cocoanut
+cream. It is perfectly surprising what a number of dishes these natives
+wot of, and how frequently they vary their menu. Here they are
+especially good cooks, and I like most of their dishes very much. They
+are all slightly indigestible, but that one somehow expects. In most
+Melanesian islands the yam is the staple article of diet, but here the
+taro has the preference, and is planted in larger quantities. The yam
+likes a dry situation, but the kind of taro in common use here
+flourishes in a damp soil, and this is prepared for it by a neat and
+skilful system of irrigation.
+
+While we were sitting there at Ruosi one of the men told me a curious
+custom they have here. I knew him of old to be an habitual and heavy
+kava drinker, now he told me he never drank it and had not for months.
+It appears that persons who enjoy a certain rank can deny the use of
+this beverage to any one they like, and they place a sort of ‘tabu’ over
+the kava bowl, and this tabu is not taken off again until a pig or its
+equivalent is paid. A short time ago kava drinking became so general in
+the school as to impede the working of it, for teachers and scholars
+drank alike. The boys and young men therefore met together and laid
+mutual tabus upon each other, and for some time past very little kava
+has been drunk by those attending, and no one of those on whom the tabu
+was laid has chosen yet to take it off.
+
+This same man told me another curious custom they have with respect to
+revenge. If a man has a grudge against another and he wishes to kill
+him, or if he wishes to kill someone as a set off against someone
+belonging to him having been killed, he refuses to wash his hands until
+such time as they can be washed with blood. He told me of three
+brothers, Bushmen, who swore to kill a man apiece, the two younger
+brothers have already performed their part of the contract, but the dirt
+is still thick on the hands of the eldest, and he still means murder
+when he can get the convenient opportunity. It does not matter much, I
+believe, who the victim is as long as he has not many friends to
+retaliate. Poor weak inoffensive mortals in this way often lose their
+lives, innocent sacrifices to heathen brutalism and bloodthirstiness. We
+came home in the cool of the most glorious evening, a strange contrast
+in its peace and loveliness to the rage and horror of savage brutalism.
+A quiet evening service and the song of melody seemed more in tune with
+the scene without, and I trust that the Peace of God which passeth all
+understanding may ever keep our hearts and minds in the knowledge and
+love of God and of His Son Jesus Christ.
+
+I gave notice last Sunday of Holy Communion to-morrow, and this evening
+I held a Communicants’ class at which were present the two Arthurs and
+Patrick. Anthony and Samuel are too far away to be able to attend. I
+cannot but esteem it a high privilege and blessing to be enabled to
+receive and dispense the Bread of Life here in this once heathen
+village, and I pray that we may be strengthened and refreshed for our
+work, and show forth God’s praise not only with our lips but in our
+lives, and by giving up ourselves more fully to His service. May the
+time too be hastened when some of these good people may be permitted to
+partake of the visible tokens of redeeming love.
+
+It is now late, and except for the singing of crickets, perfectly still,
+fit prelude, I trust, to a peaceful Sabbath.
+
+
+_Sunday, August 1st._--Another peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed
+that I could not sleep although I had taken care to make proper
+preparations against it. How these poor ill clad, blanketless people
+fare I cannot make out, but no doubt they pile on the wood. It was most
+perfectly calm all through the night, and this morning there was a very
+heavy dew. The wind was blowing from some westerly quarter, and it has
+continued there with some strength all the day. We began our day very
+early with a Celebration of the Holy Communion. The two Arthurs,
+Patrick, and myself made up the quorum. It was a nice, quiet, refreshing
+time, and a fresh and green oasis in a somewhat arid, spiritual desert.
+I think, perhaps, it belongs to the native character and disposition to
+do without certain things which are to us essential, and the loss even
+of the Holy Communion is not so serious deprivation to them as to us.
+Native minds, I fancy, adapt themselves too readily to the existing
+condition of things, and because they live in the desert they must never
+even pine for the food and water which is not directly attainable.
+Unless the Holy things of our religion are kept before them in constant
+practice they are too wont to dispense with them, and be content with
+the dry husks such as their neighbours around feed upon. I shall
+therefore try to keep up the regular administration of the Holy
+Communion both for the present strengthening and refreshing of their
+souls, and for a continual remembrance that the reception of it is
+necessary to salvation. Easy native natures are too apt to float along
+with the popular stream, and to be content with dry, dull teaching and
+drier, duller services, and I sometimes long for the time when we shall
+have a more ornate church and appointments, and a more elaborate ritual.
+I firmly believe it would be helpful to the congregation. Now we are too
+content with such things as we have, and they are poor at the best.
+
+After the Celebration we had school. We assembled first in the
+schoolhouse, sang a hymn and I said a Prayer, then divided into classes,
+I myself taking all the old men into the Church, and trying to explain
+the sense of the collect to them. I told them how God had prepared for
+them that love Him such good things as pass man’s understanding, and I
+asked them how we knew that. I told them that God had revealed these
+things to us by His Son Jesus Christ, and He had left His testimony with
+us in His Gospel, and the books which persons chosen by Him had written
+under the influence and direction of His Holy Spirit. Their religion was
+a matter of mere hearsay and conjecture, and had been handed on from
+mouth to mouth, and had grown as it came down after the manner of mere
+verbal testimony. There could be no doubt with us because we have the
+living testimony of Christ’s own words which never pass away. Their
+religion came from nowhere and no one knew of its beginning; of ours at
+all events we were sure. I told them too that in England and other
+countries, where arts and sciences were known and practised far beyond
+anything they could conceive of, there were things so marvellous that
+their understanding could not grasp even the faintest idea of them, and
+how much more marvellous, wonderful, and glorious must the things be
+which God has prepared for such as love Him. Why even here below we see
+great and wonderful and mysterious things which pass the understanding
+of the world’s wisest minds, and how much more wonderful still must the
+things be which are to be revealed hereafter, when the eye shall be
+purified to see, the ear to hear, and the senses to discern the beauty
+and true glory of them. And what does God, who thus prepares these
+blessed things for us, require of us? Why to love Him above all things.
+Each one of us had some darling idol, to which we offered the devotion
+of our hearts, but it must be torn down and removed if it comes before
+our love to God. And the end of this love was God Himself, and to dwell
+with Him for ever as inheritors of His gracious promises which exceed
+all that we can desire. The old fellows were very attentive, and
+interspersed running remarks, and when I had done I asked them to kneel
+down, and I said the Collect as a Prayer for them. Meanwhile the other
+teachers had school with their scholars in the schoolhouse. The first
+class of boys and girls had to say their Collect by heart, and after
+that they were questioned on its meaning. School was closed with Prayer
+and a Hymn, and then I was ready for breakfast, very dry, uncooked rice
+with sugar and cocoanut cream, and a cup of delicious Norfolk Island
+coffee. Morning Prayer followed in due course before the day got too
+hot, and after this everyone was busy with their Sunday meal for the
+afternoon. The day was as hot as the night was cold, but it was most
+glorious, and all nature seemed to be keeping its Sabbath. The evening
+was perfectly serene and peaceful, a fit termination to a quiet, restful
+day.
+
+In the evening I had the teachers, and after that service at which I
+preached from the gospel of the day, “Except your righteousness exceed
+the righteousness of the Scribes and Pharisees.” They were very
+attentive during my remarks, so I trust I was understood. I told them
+God did not want us merely to come to school and church but He wanted
+the devotion of the heart, it was not outward righteousness He wished
+for, but inward truth and honesty and straightness. The Pharisees were
+very good Churchgoers, but their heart was not right with God, &c., &c.
+
+After Service we had singing which they always enjoy, and even now I
+hear their voices in the School house singing “There’s a friend for
+little children.” I had intended to have made an excursion to the
+neighbouring villages to-day but I could not manage the time, the day
+having gone so rapidly. Now it is very cool and betokens another cold
+night but Oh! how calm and peaceful!
+
+
+_Monday, August 2nd._--Another peculiarly cold night ushered in a most
+glorious day. A very heavy dew lay all round, and until the sun was
+quite high in the heavens the cold was very perceptible, and a flannel
+coat was very agreeable. I took two photographs early and trust they are
+good, but it would be very hard to reproduce the original so lovely as
+it appeared in the morning light. The scene too was animated with the
+cheery voices of the people, the crowing of the cocks, the merry
+laughter of the boys, and even the squealing of the pigs as they
+followed their owners for their morning food, lent additional and
+characteristic charm to the occasion. All this one cannot photograph,
+but it is necessary to suppose all this to give an idea of the village
+as it is on these glorious mornings. Here we are several hundred feet
+above the sea level, and a good way inland so that a pleasant day breeze
+always fans the air, and keeps the place gratefully cool under cover of
+a roof, or in the shade. I believe one could live here quite comfortably
+all the year round, and for myself I never feel better than I do here.
+There is such a freedom too about life here that one can carry a light
+heart and a contented mind in a healthy body. To-day almost without
+exception the people are off to the beach to windward. At this time of
+year the tides are very low, and leave the reefs almost entirely
+uncovered. Fish and crabs and other sea oddities are therefore left
+exposed, and the first named are shot by the men in the pools, and the
+women collect the latter, which are looked upon as choice articles of
+diet. Just now I am left quite solitary, but I have just dismissed a
+bevy of ladies who came to see the present seven days wonder, my
+magnetic fish. They cannot fathom the mystery at all why when one point
+of the fishing rod as they call it, is presented to the fish they
+eagerly rush at it, and why when the other they rapidly retire. They
+solve the problem by saying it is a “Wui,” (spirit). And it must seem
+strange to them as all our belongings must being of an order of art, so
+far removed from their conceptions or achievements. A kerosene lamp to
+this day is a marvel to them, and the manipulation equally mysterious,
+why it should flare up when turned one way, and why it should die when
+turned the other. One old woman who has been very sick and up to-day for
+the first time, came with the crowd and greeted me in the most maternal
+manner, grasping my hand in both her own, and calling me “Baua,” an
+obsolete word now, but belonging to a district called “Loqala” which was
+utterly devastated years ago by enemies among whom were these very
+people of Tanrig. This old lady and her son Samuel, now my head teacher
+at Tasmouri, are the sole survivors I believe, and she retains the
+expression or appelation by which a grandmother greets her grandson.
+
+I brought a box of refuse toys from Norfolk Island to which our boys and
+girls there have grown superior, and the exhibition and distribution of
+them created quite a furore. One would never suppose in these days of
+superior enlightenment that any people could be found simple enough to
+go into ecstacies over a halfpenny toy, but these women and children
+have gone off perfectly enraptured with their new possessions, and I
+dare say they will treasure them up for many a day and find pleasure in
+the contemplation and exhibition of them. One poor young mother has just
+brought in great distress her infant child which she says is suffering
+from a pain in its side, and the only remedy I can conceive of is a dose
+of castor oil. The father comes around to my side of the table, and
+whispers that it has not been ‘washed’ yet, meaning that it has not been
+Baptized, and that it has no name. While writing this Samuel appeared
+with another friend from Tasmouri, and I went with them to the beach
+where all the population had previously gone. Our path lay through the
+carefully and skilfully irrigated taro fields, and of course it was very
+bad in some places. Crossing one place I made a false step and went up
+to my knees, it was a fitting judgment on my pride for I refused the
+assistance of a stalwart follower’s back, which had borne me dry and
+safely over two such places before. I presented a strangely harlequin
+appearance with white flannel trowsers above the knee, and black mud
+gaiters below. However appearances are easily pardoned here, and the
+only grief was at my own discomfort. The people of course all said it
+was because the roads were so bad, but that was too palpable a truism,
+and was no relief to my feelings. Bootless and trowserless, these paddy
+paths make no difference to them, and mud has not the same appearance on
+a black skin. However we went to the sea-shore and saw the sport which
+was not much. One very large fish was caught with a hook and line, and
+the women had great horse-loads of shell fish, but generally the bowmen
+came off badly. The tide was out to the utmost limit of the reef, and
+quite half-a-mile from the shore the rocks were entirely exposed. Of
+course there was some very good reason for the failure and ill luck, and
+I was somewhat surprised to hear the wind blamed. It so happened that
+what of that element there was, was off shore, but if it had been only
+blowing in shore it would have driven in the fish. However there was
+disappointment depicted on every countenance, and there was some
+trifling relief to the feelings in putting the blame on the wind.
+Probably if the wind is all right to-morrow something else will be
+wrong, and so on. What a wonderful place in the English language those
+two little words ‘if’ and ‘but’ have, and how they qualify almost every
+action of mankind, and how usually are they made use of in
+self-extenuation. How scarcely possible is it to describe a single
+character without the use of one or other of them! He would be a very
+nice fellow ‘if.’ She would be an estimable woman ‘but.’ On our homeward
+road I marched boldly through mud and water taking pride I suppose in
+revenging myself, and showing my unmentionables that now the pink of
+their whiteness was off, they might just as well be a little more dirty.
+However, a refreshing bath was some return for my chagrin and
+discomfort, and I hastened home for a clean change. The cooks brought me
+two deliciously cooked fish for dinner, and were very disappointed when
+I sent them back untasted. I am never very partial to fish, and in these
+latitudes my digestive organs rebel even against the smell of them.
+However, the boys very soon picked the bones, and perhaps were not sorry
+that I had not partaken. There is great feasting going on to-night with
+both sexes, the men with their fish supper and the women with
+shell-fish.
+
+Everywhere to-day we saw the bush lit up with the bright red “Rarava,” a
+gorgeous tree, which flowers at this time of the year, and gives its
+name to the winter season. The other season is called “Magoto” from a
+reed of that name which shoots in spring, and these are the only native
+seasons of the year. There does not seem to be however any very marked
+distinction or peculiar line of demarcation between summer and winter as
+regards the heat and cold, but in fact it does seem to be warmer in the
+“Magoto” and cooler in the “Rarava.” To an Englishman however it is
+always hot, and he does not detect any material difference. One shivers
+now to think of ice and snow and of such concomitants of the winter
+season, for here of course they are absolutely unknown.
+
+
+_Tuesday, August 3rd._--It gets somewhat monotonous to write every day
+of cold nights, but this last one has been no exception. The cold is so
+peculiar and penetrating that clad in flannel from head to foot, and
+covered with a blanket and rug, I failed to keep it out, and slept very
+badly in consequence. When I did sleep, too, I was troubled with dreams
+and fancied myself in Ireland hunted by ‘Moonlighters.’ I had proposed
+to go to a very distant district called “Golvanua” to-day, but at the
+eleventh hour my escort cried off and I could not go alone. I cannot
+quite say why it is, but natives when they are about to make an
+excursion almost invariably start on the spur of the moment without
+making any previous appointment, or specifying any distinct time.
+Whether they wish to elude ‘Fate’ and deprive it of the chance of being
+unpropitious by stealing a march, or whether the fear of material foes
+induces them to do these things secretly so that they may not be
+cognizant of their movements, or what it is I do not know, but fact it
+is that if you want to make a journey, you must abide the native’s time
+and conveniences for they will seldom assent to yours if premeditated or
+prearranged.
+
+I quite expect that some fine morning, before I am out of bed perhaps,
+my escort will be awaiting me outside my door, and anxiously and
+impatiently desiring to start at once. Natives make no preparation for a
+journey, they have no impedimenta of travel, and lightly clad, and
+lightly weighted, they are ready at any moment to start, and a long or
+short stay is all the same to them. They want no canteens or bedding or
+change of clothing, and they can lay their heads down in any spot, and
+rest and refresh themselves, and be ready for any emergency. They do not
+even need as much as a tooth brush and pair of slippers for their
+excursions, and marvel at our wanting so much to them unnecessary
+luggage. I believe I should make many more journeys, if I could
+accomplish them with so little inconvenience and discomfort.
+
+Samuel went back this morning, and I am to go to Tasmouri on Friday for
+a week. He gives a very good account of his work there and I am anxious
+to see and judge for myself. The whole Community there are Baptized, and
+most exemplary Christians they are. They are very nice lively
+good-natured people too, but are not very numerous. Indeed these Maewo
+villages have dwindled down to very few inhabitants, from one cause and
+another, and a large measure of the decrease is owing to the wide spread
+practice of infanticide. Now in this district that practice, thank God,
+is checked and the population is again on the increase. Moses who was
+here with Samuel to-day asked me to Baptize while at Tasmouri his fourth
+child, three boys of his are already Baptized, and such mothers as his
+wife are a blessing to the race. Here two mothers have three children
+apiece, and several have two. I wish however the mothers would bring up
+their children a little better, they are the perfect slaves of their
+offspring, and give into them in everything. Talk about spoilt children,
+I have to roar every day of my life to some little urchin, screaming his
+lungs out because his mother does not do at once what he wants. The
+mother beats at one moment and coaxes at another, and the child grows up
+anyhow, a burden to himself and a nuisance to his neighbours. I want a
+good superior minded and well educated mother here to give some
+practical advice. Arthur’s wife is but a child herself, and as devoid of
+gumption as the rest of them. Poor people, they do not know what trouble
+and misery they entail upon themselves and their children from a want of
+a little firmness, and well timed correction.
+
+It has been a most glorious day, and this morning I accepted an
+invitation from the boys to go to ‘Kerepei.’ The tide was very low and
+many of the people had preceded us, and were busy searching the reef and
+rocks for the much prized products of the sea shore. The little fellows
+got me most deliciously sweet green cocoanuts, and while I was bathing
+caught me a nice lot of prawns for my tea. Days spent in this way are
+very pleasant, for we get to know each other all the better, and I can
+exercise a continual supervision over their actions. I generally carry a
+paper or portable volume with me, and to-day the Church Times was my
+companion. The evening was most glorious and peaceful, but when the sun
+went down peculiarly cold. Now as I write I have a blazing fire in my
+house, and I feel the comfort of it. The poor ill clad people are
+shivering all around, and are off to their several domiciles to try and
+get some heat. The attendance at school to-night was worse than I have
+known it yet, and the cold was said to be the reason of it.
+
+
+_Wednesday, August 4th._--There seems a perfect rage for fishing just
+now, when the exceptionally low tides afford such advantages for the
+pursuit. School was no sooner over to-day, than there was a general
+exodus seaward of all the able bodied inhabitants of the place. They
+talk to-day of trying the “Tasigoro” to see what it yields. This
+Tasigoro is a tabu’d enclosure of so much of the reef as those who make
+it choose, and it is made in this way--one, two, three or indeed any
+number of people who have reached the rank of “welu” kill a certain kind
+of pig, and for ten days the killer or killers are supposed to subsist
+on pig’s flesh, at the end of ten days they go to the beach, and mark
+off the chosen portion of the beach with a long bamboo at either end,
+like a base for football, but on a somewhat larger scale, and tie on to
+the bamboo the leaf of a certain palm tree; the person or persons then
+bathe in that part of the sea, and the juice of the pig’s flesh which
+they have eaten, is supposed to have the effect of sanctifying in some
+way the place, and no one fishes within the enclosure until the “welus”
+choose to take the “tabu” off. There is a talk of doing this to-day, and
+the whole population turns out to it. Of course the whole length and
+breadth of the reef during these low tides is left high and dry, and the
+fish have wisdom enough to retire as the tide goes out, but some are
+dilatory like Lot in his flight from Sodom, and some stop to have a look
+back like his wife, these are therefore left behind in the several pools
+that are everywhere dotted about of more or less depth. Some fish again
+which feed upon the reef have natural channels of escape into deep
+water, but these are very skilfully guarded by the natives with large
+nets, and the fish are captured while making a rush to get out into the
+open sea. All these channels are carefully guarded, and a very large
+number of fish shut in from escape on the more or less exposed reef. The
+leaves of a certain shrub are used for the purpose of stupifying the
+fish in the deeper pools, and they are easily caught when under the
+influence of the stupification. Others again are shot with bows and
+arrows, others speared, others caught by hand until at times the haul
+numbers several thousands, of all sorts, sizes and descriptions. After
+this great catch of course there is much feasting and rejoicing, and
+according to their own old heathen superstitious ideas there is
+something sacred in the fish so caught. ‘Kava’ is largely drunk on these
+occasions and the festivities are prolonged for many days. After my
+experience the other day I did not care to go again, and followed Arthur
+and some others to ‘Rarava,’ whither I took my photographic camera, and
+shot off a most beautiful picture in nature. I hope it may prove so in
+development.
+
+William, one of the men, lit a fire and soon produced some fine large
+bread-fruit which were placed on the embers, and deftly turned over and
+over so as to be properly cooked all round. The result was that in about
+a quarter of an hour I was engaged upon a smoking hot loaf of bread,
+which eaten with scraped cocoa-nut is very nice indeed. Breadfruit is
+too much like boiled dough to be really very nice, but to me it is very
+palatable food. The black outside coating peels off very readily when
+well cooked, and leaves a round puddingy sort of compound to be eaten.
+Inside are seeds somewhat bigger than a marble, not unlike filberts,
+and these are generally eaten with the breadfruit, the hard outside husk
+easily peeling off, and leaving a large bean like kernel. “Duwu”
+prepared his in quite a new way to me. Having pealed off the outside
+crust caused by the cooking, he wrapped the whole fruit up in the long
+dracæna leaves, and tied up the neck very carefully. He then took a
+small bamboo, and beat the breadfruit into a soft pulp, giving it a few
+final bangs on the ground, the leaves were opened, and the pudding
+turned out on leaves resembling very much a squash, and then cut up like
+a vegetable marrow into slices and eaten with scraped cocoanut. This I
+think was nicer than the bare breadfruit. We were a little party of
+twelve of both sexes, and all shared alike, men and women eating
+together in the most friendly manner, and not only so but the men did
+the cooking and helped the women in the nicest way. I could not help
+thinking what a contrast it was to years gone by. There we were sitting
+every man under his own vine and under his own fig, with no apparent
+fear or apprehension of evil, and the most perfect harmony of the two
+sexes existing among us. Here you scarcely ever now see the husband
+without the wife, and where you see the wife you may know the husband is
+not far off. Amina and Eliza kindly got me some land crabs which I
+enjoyed for tea. These and prawns are readily obtainable, and make a
+nice occasional change.
+
+
+_Thursday, August 5th._--A strong Trade wind blowing fresh all night,
+and this morning it is still very gusty and disagreeable.
+
+To-morrow there is another house to be thatched, and those who are not
+crazed about fishing are off getting food. From the commencement to the
+finish, house building here is a matter of great importance. There are
+four kinds of houses, of which the ‘gamal’ is the chief. This is the
+men’s club, and the young men’s sleeping quarters. Within its walls the
+women may not enter, and there is a certain circumscribed boundary into
+which they may not trespass. All food cooked in the ‘gamal’ is partaken
+of by the men only, and a woman may not eat of it under any
+consideration. ‘Kava’ is prepared and drunk there also, and of this a
+woman may not drink. Within the gamal are various ovens according to the
+several degrees of rank, and those of the same grade eat out of one
+oven, and the rules of precedence are strictly adhered to. Fire used
+within the gamal may not be used in a private house. After a certain age
+all boys are supposed to live in the gamal, and that becomes their
+proper quarters until they marry and build houses of their own. Any man
+may sleep in the gamal and eat food there.
+
+The next house in importance is the “ima” or married man’s residence.
+Within this house the cooking of the food for the family is done, and
+the married couples live. This house is known from the rest, by having
+the front and back end worked with cane, and more pains are expended on
+the building of it. The third kind of house is the “vale,” within which
+there is no fire place for cooking, and this is used mostly as the
+apartments of the young females before marriage, and for stowing any
+treasures which may be inconvenient in the “ima.” The front and end of
+the ‘vale’ are made only of bamboos. A fourth kind of house is the “ima
+somu” (the Bank). In this house is kept the treasures of the village,
+and it is always known by a peculiarly neat front of reeds, and by a
+very curious sort of pallisade of reeds placed in a sort of semicircle
+around the front door. Within this house a fire is kept continually
+burning night and day, and the reason for this is that the most prized
+and valuable article of barter here is the smoked mat, and the blacker
+it can be smoked the more does it increase in value. As may be supposed,
+within these houses a most weird and odd sight presents itself. The
+gross darkness being only relieved by the glowing embers of the undying
+fire, the fresh black mats look like so many great flying foxes
+suspended over it.
+
+The importance of the several houses is therefore in this order, the
+“gamal,” “ima,” “vale,” and “ima somu.” When a building is finished
+there is always a great ceremony ranging in importance according to the
+description of the house. For the gamal the ‘house warming’ is a matter
+of much ceremonial called “nasu,” and a man is supposed to “nasu gamal”
+with a pig at least. Any live stock may be slaughtered in “nasu ima,”
+and fowls, or if possible fish, are mostly in requisition. Plain food
+only is required for the two latter, but all the same there must be some
+house warming, or the building would not be properly finished. The house
+I occupy is an “ima,” and being a proprietor of many pigs, I am going to
+add to the dignity and full completion of my residence, by slaughtering
+two innocent animals next Thursday (D.V.) and the school will get a
+general holiday and a pleasant evening. I do this partly because I want
+to give the boys some slight return for the pains they have been at in
+building the house, to get a piece of pork myself, and to give a holiday
+in honour of my return among them. They say they must dig an oven
+within the ‘ima’ to make the thing complete, but to this I object.
+To-morrow, all being well, I go to Tasmouri.
+
+
+_Friday, August 6th._--Morning Prayer, school and breakfast at Tanoriki,
+and then started with three others for Tasmouri. It was a most lovely
+day, and a fresh Trade wind fanned the air and kept the paths pleasantly
+cool. Beneath the deep, dark shade of the native forest, the strong
+burning heat of the morning sun was not oppressive, and the roads and
+bush were fortunately very dry. However, any exertion in this climate
+induces perspiration, and that one expects.
+
+The native guide swung along at a rapid pace, and we were not long in
+reaching “Uta,” where we rested for some time in the neat little school,
+and Takele regaled us with green cocoanuts, which were very acceptable.
+Poor Takele, who has only one enlightened friend to help him, finds a
+difficulty in getting his scholars together on a week day, and no
+wonder, as I suppose he knows very little more than they do themselves,
+and it is irksome to old people to spell over their A.B.C. day after
+day, and get no oral instruction. It is far more in consonance with
+their feelings and habits to go out for the day, either to the seashore
+or to their gardens, than to be trammelled with the cares and labour of
+school. On Sundays he says they turn up in large numbers, and generally
+some one goes to them from Tanoriki. I promised him a visit for Sunday
+week, all being well, and I shall try to keep my promise, for he
+deserves all the help we can extend to him. He has never been away, is a
+man now of middle age, and entirely self-taught. He is a most excellent,
+conscientious man, and tries to do all he can for his people, according
+to his limited amount of knowledge.
+
+He built the school himself and keeps it in most extraordinary order. In
+many cases he has acted as a deterrent on his countrymen, when they have
+proposed some heathen act which he has not thought to be within the
+bounds of strict rectitude, and I believe he tries to lead a good life
+as far as he knows. As far as morality goes, I do not think anyone would
+venture to bring an accusation against him. I have always intended to
+Baptize him, and perhaps this year I may put my intentions into effect.
+Leaving “Uta” we still marched on in single file, till we reached the
+brow of the cliff down which, of necessity, we had to descend, Tasmouri
+being on the other side of the island to windward. A striking and broad
+prospect greeted us from the hill top, and we saw besides Meralava and
+the wide expanse of ocean before us, the grand fertile plain belonging
+to the Tasmouri district, and the church and school visible in the far
+distance. At the foot of the steep cliff our way lay through the
+beautifully irrigated taro beds, and of course I had to pick my way to
+prevent being buried in mud. Leaving the gardens, we had a grand stretch
+of level country before us, and before long we came upon a merry party
+of Tasmouri people awaiting our arrival, some distance from their
+village. Being tired and hungry I pushed on ahead with some of the boys,
+and enjoyed a refreshing bathe and change of garments. Then came what I
+suppose I must dignify by the name of dinner, mostly native food, but
+eaten with the best sauce was as good as the best Lord Mayor’s feast,
+and I dare say as digestible. The Bishop’s kind present was most useful,
+and the canteen contained every article requisite for out of the way
+travellers. After the meal the people came home, and before long we had
+Evensong. I was quite surprised at the heartiness of the responses, the
+fluency of the reading, and the general brightness of the singing and
+service.
+
+The women sang out lustily with a good courage, and although a trifle
+slow the result was pleasing on the whole. With a little teaching the
+singing and service will be very nice. I find I have Baptized forty-six
+people here, two of whom have died, two have gone away in a labour
+vessel, and forty-two still remain. They are a very nice, genuine,
+exemplary community, and Samuel has kept them well together. They seem
+to me beyond the Tanrigese in point of mental ability, and readily take
+in fresh ideas. One or two of the young men are very superior fellows.
+This evening I felt the warmth of this place, by comparison with Tanrig,
+and for the first time for the year I have slept without any kind of
+covering. The reed bed I found somewhat hard, but one cannot expect
+everything, and is content with such things as one has. The condition of
+the people morally, socially and spiritually, simply reconcile one to
+any amount of bodily inconvenience. I can thank God and take courage.
+
+
+_Saturday, August 7th._--Most beautiful morning at Tasmouri. After
+Prayers and breakfast we all went for a picnic to a pretty place called
+“Ro[¨n]o nawo” meaning the sound of the surf, but why I don’t know. It is
+curious how the Mota word has got in here “nawo.” The word here for surf
+is “togovi” but nawo comes probably from Meralava. We all turned out for
+the holiday, men, women and children. The women did the cooking while
+the men and boys amused themselves in various ways, fishing, shooting,
+bathing or playing an animated game called “buka,” something between
+“prisoner’s base” and the old game of “tig.” Some of the young men
+amused themselves by shooting at a mark about thirty or forty yards
+distant. They made such good shooting at that distance, that I should be
+very sorry to give them a shot at me with a good well balanced poisoned
+arrow. At short distances of course they make very good work, and in
+their own skirmishes they don’t want to make long shots. I dare say by
+the side of a good English archer they would cut a sorry figure at a
+long shot, but for their own purposes they are excellent shots, and
+custom of course engenders skill. Their arrows are unfeathered, and I
+don’t expect will carry as true as the better made English arrow. Their
+bows are very strong and durable, being made curiously enough from a
+tree called the “Aru” (she oak). I spent my day pleasantly enough in
+reading and making pencil notes. Crabs and breadfruit was my luncheon,
+and a green cocoanut. The whole party assembled in the course of the
+afternoon, and the ovens were opened and their plentiful supply of food
+disgorged. I said grace and then there was a general fall to. The meal
+over we made preparation for a start homewards which we reached some
+time before sunset. On the way home the boys showed me in the water
+course a cocoanut tree which time had failed to rot or destroy, and the
+story according to native ideas was that this same tree was coexistant
+with the upheaval of the island, and had never changed, generation after
+generation handing on the fact of its existence and whereabouts.
+
+In the evening we had Prayers in the church and a nice hearty Service.
+Poor “Samuel” the head teacher is sick and has not been able to be with
+us to-day. I gave a short address at Evensong explanatory mostly of
+to-morrow’s programme. It is very warm here and one’s thoughts either
+cease to flow or one’s hand to write, anyhow I find a difficulty in
+inducing energy to write or my brain to cogitate.
+
+Except for the perpetual boom and surge of the restless ocean all is
+still and peaceful here at present.
+
+On Saturdays following the general and long prevailing custom of the
+Mission we have a whole holiday, and consequently this morning we had
+only the shortened form of Mattins such as we use here. Breakfast
+followed consisting of yam scraped and cooked in leaves, and the
+particular kind presented for my discussion this morning is called
+“laqa[¨n]a.” The natives are great cooks and have a very long list of
+various dishes on their menu.
+
+There are three principal modes of cooking food, however, such as yams
+and taro, (1) Roasted on the embers and the outside skin carefully
+scraped off as it gets hardened, this is called “tutunu,” (2) scraped on
+the rough edge of the tree fern, then wrapped in leaves like a large
+pudding and cooked in the hot stones, this is termed “loko,” (3) roasted
+on the fire until cooked, then beaten on a large wooden dish until as
+thin about as biscuit pastry, and cocoanut cream poured over, this is
+named “lutu.” The first two are the most common preparations, and the
+first perhaps most generally in use.
+
+The different kinds of “loko and lutu” are wonderful, and it would
+puzzle any one but a skilled native cook, to make any distinct varieties
+of dishes out of such unpromising materials.
+
+Both sexes are good cooks, and no wonder, as from the time they are able
+properly to run about, until the infirmities of old age creep on they
+are accustomed to shift for themselves. An English boy would fare very
+badly if he had to cook his own dinner, and provide for his own wants as
+early as some of these native children. But education and habit are
+everything, the latter of course is second nature.
+
+
+_Sunday, August 8th._--At Tasmouri. Beautiful but very warm morning.
+After breakfast we had Sunday School, at which every member of the
+village population was present. I was much pleased with the way four or
+five classes repeated by heart their catechism, and the collect for the
+week, and answered general questions on the subject. It showed one that
+school was a serious and important business both with teacher and pupil.
+We went from the school into church, where we had full Morning Service
+but without any Sermon. Service over, I was followed by the whole male
+population to Tasmate. The day was very hot, and we had been obliged to
+choose the hottest part of it for our walk. However we tumbled over the
+same creepers, knocked our heads against the same branches, brushed
+against the same bristly bushes, that the natives of Maewo have done
+ever since they peopled the island. No one ever thinks of trying to
+improve his own or his neighbour’s ways, and from being accustomed so
+long to the present condition of the paths, they are quite content to
+experience the discomfort for ever and aye, they were good enough for
+their own forefathers, why should not they be good enough for them.
+Being head and shoulders taller than most of our natives, I suffered
+untold agonies mentally and physically, but I submit to the necessity,
+knowing that unless I commence to improve matters myself, I may expect
+the same discomforts to the end of the chapter. My helmet on more than
+one occasion has saved my head very severe concussions, and to be
+bonnetted is no uncommon occurence. However, on we swung, I being
+thankful that the road was so level as it was, and at length arrived at
+Tasmate more fit to be comforted than to think of administering comfort
+to others. They have built a nice little school here, and by the way
+they turned up at the subsequent service it was manifest that they knew
+the use of it. Augmented by the Tasmouri people the little place was
+crowded to its fullest capabilities, and the heat and flies were not
+such as one would choose for ordinary enjoyment, but personal comforts
+with Missionaries are a secondary consideration. We had a nice service,
+and I gave a somewhat long address in spite of inconveniences, and when
+it was over I retired to the cool refreshing shade by the sea shore, and
+all at once everyone began to feel the heat and followed me there.
+However, our conversation ran in an edifying course, and I hope some
+were profited by it. The return home was the next consideration, and I
+must say it seemed formidable for a Sunday afternoon. We reached a place
+called “Na Seu,” and there I could not resist a bathe in the natural
+bathing place, under such a deliciously cool shoot of water. We came
+home by a new route which was said to be much shorter, but it turned out
+to be quite as long I think, and not nearly so pleasant walking.
+
+At “Uta riki,” where I formerly remember a good population, one man and
+a small child are the only surviving remnant. The rest are all scattered
+or dead. We asked him to come to Tasmouri and live there, but he would
+not consent on the spur of the moment. His son and relations left are
+mostly there. In matter of wives he has been a regular Blue Beard, and
+the last of a long list has just died, and left him a widower.
+
+We arrived in due course at Tasmouri, and after dinner all together,
+which the women had provided in our absence, we had Evensong, a very
+nice service with a Sermon from me. The women proposed singing
+afterwards, and this went on till late. At the Evening Service I
+Baptized the infant daughter of Moses, naming her Anika. Moses, wife,
+and four children are now a Christian family. His care of, and love for,
+his children gave me good food for my discourse afterwards, as did the
+case of ‘Dimeli’ and the remnant of his people migrating from the place
+where many had died, to a place where all were going to keep well and
+live, with the result that all have died with the exception of himself.
+There was no hope of life apart from God.
+
+
+_Monday, August 9th._--Very hot, oppressive day, and I was so ill
+throughout I did little or nothing. My efforts to get cool were utterly
+abortive. Great Christening festivities were going on all day. The
+fatted pig was killed and eaten with much thankfulness and rejoicing in
+the evening. At Evensong I screwed my courage up to a Sermon which was
+better listened to than delivered. Afterwards there was a dance.
+
+
+_Tuesday, August 10th._--I saw this morning a beardless youth, who is
+the tenth husband of a woman in the district. One of her sons is a
+full-gown man at Tasmouri, himself married many years. There is no
+accounting for taste, but on which side the love or taste is I do not
+know. Beauty of face and figure have little weight generally with
+natives, they think more of utility and position. They seem to me to
+have no idea of the sublime and beautiful either in woman or in nature
+according to our ideas, and in a very matter of fact way look to the
+practical side of the business. Polygamy here is the exception, and
+there is not so large a percentage of females as is found in some of the
+islands. However, if they are all as easily satisfied as the youth
+mentioned above, young girls will be at a premium. There is one man here
+at Tasmouri who has two wives, and he steadily refuses to divorce one or
+the other with a view to Baptism, and according to our present practice
+in the administration of that Holy Rite, we insist on monogamy.
+Strangely enough the son of this very man had five wives, four of whom
+he divorced in order to be Baptized. All the four divorced are now
+married and Baptized at Tasmouri.
+
+It was so intolerably hot in the village, I proposed that we should go
+to Ro[¨n]onawo, as I was going to Tasmate to sleep and that was about a
+half-way house. All the population followed me, and there we cooked our
+dinner and rested. After the meal we had a short service there on the
+beach which was very quiet and solemn, and then with most of the men I
+turned my steps towards Tasmate, Samuel and a few others, with the women
+going back to Tasmouri. There was a great shaking of hands, some
+profusion of tears among the women, and a great deal of Christian
+harmony between us all.
+
+Arriving at Tasmate we found another dinner awaiting us, and a hearty
+welcome. We had Prayers after dinner with a sermon from myself, in which
+I contrasted the present visit with those they must remember to have
+known in heathen days. Then the hands were full, but the heart was
+empty, now the heart was full of love and the hands carried no bow and
+arrows. We had great Hymn singing afterwards, and the men sat and
+talked outside about the present and the past. There are a few hearts
+here I can see being prepared for the good seed which may God sow in His
+good time, quickly if it may be, and water the plant of grace with the
+dew of His Holy Spirit.
+
+We were rather late before we thought of retiring, and I was not sorry
+at length when it was proposed, for without chair or seat, except a
+native tree, there was no great pleasure in sitting.
+
+
+_Wednesday, August 11th._--Spent a very uncomfortable night at Tasmate.
+The kind people had done all they could to make me comfortable, but I
+found the bed very hard, the sleeping quarters very rough, the fleas in
+large numbers, and the mosquitos very lively. However, I have been more
+uncomfortable, and I was not unthankful to be brought safely to the
+beginning of another day. A place was named to me last evening called
+“Beitabu,” as being a most choice spot for a bathe, and it was said to
+be near at hand. Having not many toilet requisites with me, I proposed
+to one “Lulu” a denizen of the place to pilot me there. I was very
+“breakfasty” and most unrefreshed, but away we started for “Beitabu.” It
+was a fearful grind to get there, and the distance seemed to me
+interminable. Of course being well watered there were irrigated taro
+beds, and I slipped off a bank clean into the mud. Yet when the spot was
+reached it made up for all difficulties and distresses and proved to be
+a most marvellous natural bath, a large, clear, deep pool, with water
+pouring in from a charming little waterfall, and flowing out rapidly
+over the rocks below. I do not know when I have enjoyed a bath more, or
+when water had a more invigorating and refreshing effect on me.
+Fortunately my host had what breakfast there was ready for me when I got
+back, and in my state of exhaustion it did not much matter what it was.
+After breakfast we had Morning Prayer with a short address from me
+instead of school. Not long after “sail oh!” was cried and my boat
+appeared to bring me back here to Tanrig, and heartily glad am I to be
+back here again in comparative comfort. We had a pleasant but rather
+heavy row up the coast, our party on board numbering twenty-eight.
+Fortunately the sea was very smooth, and not much wind, or probably we
+should not have fared so well. All my Tasmouri friends came on with me
+and are spending the night. All were well here and the place looked much
+as usual. One little baby had died unbaptized during my absence, a
+matter of great regret to everybody, and very much so to me. I had known
+of the child’s illness, and it was better before I left. I had
+therefore postponed its Baptism until I could make it convenient to
+Baptize three or four more infants now waiting for the Rite.
+
+
+_Thursday, August 12th._--General holiday. Arthur took occasion to “nasu
+ima” at the same time with me, and the great event of two house warmings
+drew together a large concourse of people. Fire was lit in my house, and
+part of a pig and two fowls were cooked in the oven. It is the custom
+here to have as many kinds of flesh as possible on these occasions, and
+as many kinds of vegetables, representing I suppose all the different
+sorts of food that will hereafter be cooked therein. There has been
+great preparation for this day, and great excitement to-day. Every
+household added its mite to the feast, and in the evening when the feast
+was spread out there was a grand display. Everyone had huge pieces of
+yam and taro and banana cake, and a large piece of fish, fowl and pork.
+The pork takes precedence, but the fish costs the greatest pains in
+provision, not being so easily within their reach or means of
+acquisition. Fish in these countries do not seem to take hook and bait
+readily, and the poor natives have to resort to all manner of odd
+expedients to secure them. There were many strangers here, and quite 150
+people or more must have partaken. The pork was very nice and most
+beautifully cooked in the native oven. The females presided over the
+cutting up, but Arthur as co-host with myself gave directions as master
+of the feast. He gave a sigh of relief when he came into my house after
+it was all over, and said “there, what a poor return for so much
+labour.” That always strikes me as the most pitiable thing about a
+feast, it is all over in the twinkling of an eye, and what have you for
+your pains?
+
+This evening there is a great dance, a vast crowd of people has already
+congregated, and it is to go on till morning light. It is done as a
+special compliment to myself, and I do not like to stop them. The
+patient endurance of some of the dancers is wonderful. From the start to
+the finish, say from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m., they never leave the ranks of the
+dance but keep at it all the time, singing, clapping the hands and
+dancing. There is no rest for a good supper at midnight, but the dance
+is carried right through to the bitter end. I am going to attempt sleep,
+but I fear the noise will prove too much for me. They have certainly a
+most beautiful night for their dance, but I should be sorry to be one of
+the performers. The songs are certainly very pretty, and they show
+wonderful power of memory to keep up the succession all through the
+night, without a book of words or musical score.
+
+I can imagine too, as the enthusiasm of the dance increases, that there
+must be a sort of fascination about the performance.
+
+
+_Friday, August 13th._--The dance was kept up till daylight, and I got
+little or no sleep before that. When I did get to sleep, I slept so
+soundly that it was late on in the morning before I awoke, and then I
+was driven to it. Arthur Huqe appeared at my bedside and asked me if he
+should ring the bell for prayers, and I was obliged to consent. The
+whole day afterwards was somewhat of a blank to me, and I went no
+whither and did little till evening. The duties of the day however, were
+carried on as usual.
+
+
+_Saturday, August 14th._--The usual holiday. We had Prayers very early,
+and before breakfast I took a picture of most of the congregation in
+front of the church, which I hope will turn out good. It was not a
+pleasant day indoors, there was a strong wind blowing, and clouds of
+dust penetrating my house from all quarters, and I was not sorry to
+accept Arthur’s offer to go with himself and most of the people to the
+riverside. There it is always cool and pleasant, and the luxury of a
+bathe, although almost a daily occurence, is always appreciated. I took
+my photographic Camera with me, and after almost burying myself in mud,
+succeeded in getting a good view of the pretty taro gardens. On our way
+to Rarava the monotony of the road was relieved by our starting a
+“malau,” the ornithological name of which I know not, but it is a kind
+of bush turkey, it has a red head, yellow legs and black feathers, and
+is really like a common hen in shape and appearance. The poor thing was
+evidently startled from her peculiar nest, where she was about to
+deposit her eggs. These strange birds after securing a favourable spot,
+lay their eggs some depth beneath the upper soil, and leave them there
+uncared for until the young ones hatch themselves, and when strong
+enough burst their earthly tenement, and come forth to the light of day.
+Some say the parent comes occasionally back to her nest to see how
+matters are progressing, and even digs at the earth to find out how the
+process of hatching goes on. If she finds her progeny ready to walk, she
+drives them on before her to a place of security, but the general belief
+is that she allows them to shift for themselves. These curious birds are
+said to feed principally on the large ants here called “gandee.”
+
+In Savo and some of the Solomon Islands, these birds are tamed and
+fenced in, to lay their eggs in the hot sand, but here they are wild and
+rare. Their eggs which are very numerous are esteemed a great delicacy.
+This poor bird in question tried very hard to get away by flight, but
+getting entangled in the thick bush, was shot by a cruel arrow. The
+capture was the food for conversation throughout the day, and I listened
+to the relation and re-relation of the narrative of it times without
+number, with all the little details with which natives are wont to
+embellish and amplify their narration of the smallest fact. It is
+perfectly wonderful how the smallest matter affords pasture for native
+conversation, and what a wonderful faculty they have of making multum
+out of parvum. In powers of conversation and flow of language, I think
+natives are far before our European working classes. A native never
+seems at a loss for something to say, and certainly never fails to
+express himself from lack of words.
+
+I have frequently heard an European confess that he had a great deal to
+say, but he could not express himself for want of words. The fluency of
+speech, and powers of conversation are not confined here to the weaker
+sex, and I think the men have quite as long tongues as the women,
+although I do not think they chatter so much or make such a clatter.
+Some of the men are great wits, and make fun for the multitude, but I do
+not think this applies to the women. The Maewo folks are great
+“laughers,” and go off into fits of cacchination at the smallest joke.
+They are a most simple, good-natured race certainly, and it is hard to
+conceive of their being such depraved savages, so gentle are they in
+their ways.
+
+After school with the teachers in the evening, during which we discussed
+our Sunday programme, we had Evensong, and afterwards a long singing
+practice. Miss Mount’s generous gift is a most welcome addition to our
+singing, and Arthur Huqe begins to play the harmonium very nicely at the
+services. Our singing is very fair on the whole, but there is room for
+improvement, and we have the ability if I could get the girls to use
+their very nice voices. In the old familiar hymns and chants they sing
+out lustily, but when we attempt anything new, they shut up altogether,
+without making a trial to join in.
+
+
+_Sunday, August 15th._--There are two very homely sounds which break the
+stillness of the early morning here, and the first is the cock which
+seems to have a peculiar faculty for crowing in these latitudes, he
+starts his chant before commerce is awake and he keeps religiously at it
+all day long. Here at Maewo, too, these birds are in prodigal abundance,
+their flesh is esteemed very delicate food, and is kept for great and
+exalted occasions. Here the male takes precedence of the female even in
+the matter of dumb animals, and sows and hens are looked upon as only
+fit food for women. The crow of the first cock is a signal for a general
+chorus, and then the natives begin to stir. As soon as they appear on
+the threshold of their doors another chorus takes up the morning song,
+and the pigs begin their squealing. Whether it is that one looks for
+more peace on Sunday morning, or whether one perchance is a trifle more
+inclined to take a little more sleep or a little more slumber, whatever
+the actual cause may be, I always notice that on Sundays there is always
+a greater noise from the domestic animals than on ordinary days. The
+pigs here are hand fed, and will not be denied, they squeal to their
+hearts’ content until they have their morning meal, and being in
+considerable numbers the noise is not sleep producing. In old days these
+animals were kept for their heathen feasts, but as of late these have
+fallen into disuse, so the pigs have increased until they have become
+one of the features of the place. At a Baptism or any great Church
+Festival such as Christmas, Easter, Pentecost, one or more male animals
+have to die, and although the possession of a flock is as much valued as
+an Englishman’s stud, no one ever grumbles to kill his animal when his
+turn comes round.
+
+Being very hot this morning, and there being a prospect of the
+repetition of the Egyptian plague of flies, who always add to the
+discomfort of a congregation, we had school very early. Our numbers were
+slightly augmented by outsiders, but not quite to my satisfaction. After
+a hasty breakfast I started for Uta. This is a good long distance from
+here, and I was in a state of dripping perspiration when I arrived
+there. I found everyone keeping a Sabbath, but very few appreciating the
+idea of a Christian Sunday.
+
+However, I had quite a large congregation in the neat little school but
+the ladies preponderated in point of numbers. We had quite a nice hearty
+little service, and they listened patiently to an address from myself. I
+wish from my heart I had a good teacher to place here, for I know he
+would be the means of doing much good work to God’s glory. The present
+teacher is a very good, conscientious fellow, but his own knowledge is
+not much above that of his own countrymen, and they grow weary of
+hearing continually the same thing. I was quite pleased with my visit,
+and amply rewarded for any discomfort I experienced in the journey. I do
+not expect that any immediate result will issue from such spasmodic
+efforts, but there is no knowing the power of grace, and God’s ways are
+not as our ways. Often it is that the last becomes first, and the first
+last. At all events I keep the door open, and I hope before long someone
+else may be raised up to settle among them as a permanent teacher. After
+resting awhile I took my homeward journey, escorted according to custom
+by the denizens of the village beyond their own boundary. I returned by
+way of “Na Ruru,” where “Anthony” one of our Norfolk Island trained boys
+has a school. He seems to be doing fairly well there, and has a nice
+school. After sitting with him for some time, the shades of evening
+began to close in, and I to feel somewhat famished, having had but
+little since morning. Bidding him goodbye I started for Tanrig, where I
+arrived in due course. After dinner I baptized three children, Maida,
+Victoria and Matthew respectively. The Font was very prettily arranged
+and decorated by Arthur Huqe, and the service generally, very nice.
+Later on we had Evensong, quite a refreshing and stirring service, at
+which I preached, and never before do I remember to have secured more
+attention. These children I Baptized this evening make up the number of
+Christians here to 100, under God, the fruits of my own, and my
+teacher’s work, and I feel that by the orderly and consistent lives of
+most of them, I can thank God and take courage.
+
+I took as the basis of my remarks, our Lord’s last command to His
+Disciples, and I urged those who had already been admitted into the
+fellowship of Christ’s religion, to eschew all those things which were
+contrary to their profession, and to follow all such things as were
+agreeable to the same, and those still without the pale to lose no time
+in applying for that rite, the absence of which our Lord declared must
+be condemnation. Those words have a strong sound here for Missionary and
+heathen--“He that believeth and is Baptized shall be saved, but he that
+believeth not shall be dammed.” One realizes here their full weight, and
+solemnity, and power. Quite three parts of the congregation have dropped
+in to wish me good night, and by the hushed stillness over the place I
+can tell that God’s Word has not fallen to the ground. God grant that it
+may minister grace to hearer and preacher.
+
+
+_Monday, August 16th._--The night was made perfectly hideous by the
+howling of the fiendish curs which are dignified with the name of dogs,
+the squealing of hungry swine, and the cackling of a poor forlorn goose
+whose kith and kin have left her a solitary representative of her
+species, and who seems to find her only solace in sitting outside my
+door and calling to her lost companions. The dogs are simply a pest to
+the place, they keep up their incessant bark all the day long, and all
+night they howl and prowl around. They are hideously ugly, undersized
+creatures, and are the more loathsome because they are the acknowledged
+scavengers of the place. They are not worthy to be called dogs, and any
+one except he was assured of the fact, would scarcely believe that they
+were dogs. They are supposed to be useful in catching wild pigs, but
+from their appearance you would fancy that it must be a poor specimen of
+a pig they would dare to tackle. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and
+all these sounds rending the still night air simultaneously drove sleep
+from my eyes, and produced such inward irritation and disgust that if a
+thought could have killed the lot, none of them would have troubled the
+world again with their noises. A most glorious morning enticed me up
+very early, and certainly the early dawn was very fresh and beautiful.
+We had Prayers very soon after daylight and even then the blue bottles
+had collected in great numbers and were by no means a help to devotion.
+These pests spring into existence at once as soon as any number of human
+bodies are congregated together, and are particularly active in church
+and school. The idea of them apart from their propensities is very nasty
+and disgusting, and when in a country like this without the concomitants
+of devotion, one wants all the solemnity one can possibly obtain, their
+presence and irritation are the more odious and nauseating.
+
+To-day, according to custom, we kept the Christening Feast of the
+children who were Baptized last night. The parents of the children gave
+a most beautiful pig, and the women attended to the cooking, the men
+dispersing in many directions each in quest of his own business or
+pleasure. I went with a party to Ruosi where we bathed, and got back in
+time for the opening of the ovens, and the division of the feast. I said
+grace and then each one partook of his or her share of the plentiful
+repast, all eating together in the most harmonious fashion, and not as
+in old days the sexes keeping religiously apart. This middle wall of
+separation has been almost entirely broken down, and family life and
+sociability have taken the place of the old seclusion and division. It
+was a most glorious night but the people were too tired to dance, and we
+all retired early to our houses. I kept busy till very late writing up
+arrears of correspondence and reading, and was the last in the village
+out of bed.
+
+
+_Tuesday, August 17th._--The most glorious day from earliest morning
+till now at night, the evening one of the most beautiful I ever saw,
+when the moon rose it was a most perfect night above and below, the sky
+studded with myriads of stars and absolutely cloudless, here everything
+hushed in peaceful slumber, except the restless, ever-singing crickets,
+whose buzz is continuously kept up by night and day. At the heathen end
+of the village there was a sort of Irish wake kept up to-day, but there
+was no “tangi” or any ceremony except a pig being killed, and a great
+feast being prepared. Formerly, death days were kept with great
+strictness, and the day of death and the 100th were observed with great
+festivities. I have seen nothing of the kind now for years, and I
+fancied the custom had quite died out. It was supposed in old days when
+the people were still heathen, that the disembodied spirit, after it
+left its earthly tenement, hung about hungry and restless on the thick
+creepers in the bush, and on the day of death a great feast was prepared
+for it, after which it retired to the place of departed spirits called
+Banoi. This same Banoi is near Tasmouri, but I have never seen it. The
+idea, I believe, is that when the spirit is at length at rest, its stone
+is placed in a certain cave or pit there exists there, and the people
+who have seen the place, tell me that certainly there far inland are
+smooth seaside stones laid in wonderful regularity, and in old days
+supposed to be put there by successive spirits in order as they died.
+Until quite recently, no one ventured into this ghostly place, and it
+was regarded as eminently sacred. Some day I hope to go there and
+examine it for myself.
+
+I cannot find out the rationale of the subsequent death days, but they
+seem to have more to do with the living than the dead, and are supposed
+to show the departed one that he or she is still kept in faithful and
+affectionate memory.
+
+In old days everyone was careful to have one good pig at least, in
+readiness for the day of his death, and any others which he might
+possess at the time of his departure, his friends were careful to kill
+in his honour.
+
+They carefully kept the days, principally the tens, I think, and
+religiously observed the 100th, after which remembrance seemed no longer
+necessary, but before that, I am afraid, there was a large amount of
+selfishness about the death days, and more was thought of the living in
+them than of the dead. The people tell me how strictly these days were
+kept formerly, they dispensed with their regular ordinary food sometimes
+for the whole 100 days, and ate only such roots and fruits as grow wild
+in the bush, religiously abstaining from all garden produce until the
+full time had expired. Some went even beyond this when a very particular
+person died, and for the whole 100 days ate only one kind of root, and
+that the most difficult to obtain, strenuously refusing to partake of
+food in common with others. I have known a man myself adhere to this
+rigid, self-imposed abstention, in the case of the death of a son, and
+of a wife, not here however, but at Opa. A man once came into my house
+over there, tired and hungry after a long fast and a laborious journey,
+but he strictly refused a biscuit or other food which I ventured to
+offer him, and when or where he ate I do not know, for the particular
+food he had chosen to eat was most rare in the neighbourhood, I doubt
+even if it was obtainable at all. Yet no privation or distress would
+force him to break his rule, and eat promiscuously until the proper time
+had elapsed. In the keeping of their days they are wonderfully accurate,
+and you seldom find them wrong in their calculations. Their fingers are
+their ready reckoners, and they have to do a great deal more work than
+ours in assisting a weak memory, where the use of slate and pencil are
+unknown. I very often ask people to count over the names of persons in
+the place or neighbourhood, just to see how clever and correct they are
+with their numbers. Here the whole ten fingers are used, at Opa only the
+left hand, five fingers down being five, the first finger up and the
+rest down six, and so on until all are up which makes ten, then two
+tens, three tens, up to ten tens or one hundred. In the distribution of
+food, too, it is wonderful how accurate they are, and it is very rarely
+that any one is left out of the count. Of course, where the science of
+numbers is unknown, nature teaches by a more roundabout, but scarcely
+less accurate process. For all practical purposes and uses, their
+fingers help them a great deal, indeed almost as far as their
+requirements go, for their lives are very simple and their ways
+uncomplicated. The leaves of a certain palm, however, lends them some
+assistance, especially in the distribution of food, and as the person is
+seen, or his name thought of, a leaf is broken off, and then the broken
+leaves are counted. I have never heard of the toes being used as
+assistants, although one might fancy their being of service.
+
+
+_Wednesday, August 18th._--About midnight as I lay reading in bed, and a
+perfect stillness reigned around, we experienced a very sharp shock of
+an earthquake. My house shook so uncomfortably, that I really feared it
+was coming down, and I had the sort of feeling as of some one trying to
+upset it, and I felt as if I must say “Oh! do not, please leave off, you
+will have it down.” My neighbour’s fence was shaken so, that I fancied
+some considerable damage had been done. The vibration lasted a good long
+time, some seconds I should say, after the real shock was over, and I
+felt myself, a sort of palpitation for some considerable period. I was
+not afraid, but no one can feel an earthquake without some instinctive
+dread. Nothing, I think, makes one feel one’s littleness and
+helplessness and insecurity more, and there is such a solemnity attached
+to it, that you are very thankful when it is fairly over. Man, bird and
+beast were roused into action at once, and there was quite an excitement
+here for a time. Curiously enough, in the evening there was a very
+bright and exceedingly beautiful after-glow, and I remarked to the boys
+how like it was to the time when the terrible destruction was caused in
+the gulf of Sunda, and I said casually, that I should not be surprised
+if we had more earthquakes soon. The natives have a firm idea that they
+are the precursors of rain, and certainly this morning we have had a
+very heavy downpour. This is the first rain we have had for the whole
+month I have been here, and the first day I have been kept to solitary
+confinement. Most of the day I have been absolutely alone, and my pen
+has been kept very busy writing letters and hymns and songs. With the
+latter I have been very successful, and have managed four. One,
+particularly successful, goes to the chorus of “Wait till the clouds
+roll by,” and is as follows:--
+
+    Ge togatoga ririkqa.
+    Mati ni van ra[¨n]ai,
+    A la[¨n]i ni rowo na wia,
+    Tavi dago na tasgoro.
+
+    Gana sako na usu maraga,
+    Gana toura na gabe tar,
+    Gana tura goro na masi
+    Gana koko betegag.
+
+    Gana unui vagamatera
+    A le[¨n]ele[¨n]e mas
+    Gana tuwur, sogon le gete
+    Toli tasgoro rik ka sem.
+
+of which the translation is:--
+
+    Wait a little bit longer,
+    Wait till the tide is low,
+    Wait till the wind blow fairer,
+    And then make the tasgoro.
+
+    Then we will take bow and arrow,
+    Then we will carry our nets,
+    Then we will stop in the fishes
+    And gather them properly up.
+
+    We will kill them dead with poison,
+    All and every kind of fish,
+    We will gather and lay them in baskets,
+    What a glorious tasgoro!
+
+The _tasgoro_ I have before described. Part of beach enclosed, tabu’d,
+and after lapse of time opened again to the public.
+
+This evening we have sung this chorus with grand effect, and high as I
+was previously in popular estimation as a poet, I have gone still higher
+now. What a little thing wins popularity, how little is a thing so
+easily purchased worth the having! One other song goes very prettily and
+smoothly to “Home sweet Home,” and is much appreciated. It is, as far as
+I could adapt it, the reproduction of the English song into Maewo.
+“Dream Faces” supplied me with another very pretty little song, which
+runs very well, the theme of which is the “moonlight.” “Our Jack’s come
+home to-night,” lent me the music of a fourth song, which is peculiarly
+native in expression, and slightly more comic than the two above
+mentioned.
+
+The production of this last was received with such peals of laughter,
+that for a time confusion and merriment took the place of composure and
+perfect gravity. It would lose its charm and half its meaning if I were
+to attempt to translate it into English. Here, however, is the Maewo:--
+
+  Ta disava qarik             Isei ni tau na as?
+  Eh? Ro[¨n]o lolora va!      Ki isei qa ni sawu?
+  Wa sagoro ta sagoro         Ki gida, sem, ta lai ra[¨n]ai!
+      Ro[¨n]o lolora va!          Toli sagoro rik!
+
+  Da! ta sagoro da!           Ge riri betigag!
+  Ta sagoro tei rik           Ga laia ra[¨n]ai sag!
+  Kare mawmaw, tei riki vak!  Ge wosawosa limamu!
+      A wula marama!          Tolina rik ka sem!
+
+The “Dream Faces” song is as follows:-
+
+ Nan ligo asik suri marama,    --I’ll make my song about the moonlight,
+ Tolina rik sem a wula marama, --Charming indeed is the light of the moon,
+
+ Osoos ti rasu mera na maran,  --Darkness has flown, it is light as the day,
+ Non eteete ti lita soun na    --His brightness chased the night far away.
+       qo[¨n].
+
+ Nan ligo asik suri marama,    --I’ll make my song about the moonlight,
+ A[¨n]eisa tea le isi Tamada,  --Some day I ween in our great Father’s land,
+
+ Ala na maran vagatewa tau,    --There day unending for ever will be,
+ Qon tigai ala, moa marama,    --Night is unknown there, light only endless.
+
+The light called “marama,” is looked upon by natives as the perfection
+of light, because it is, I suppose, unaccompanied by the burning heat of
+the sun. I therefore use it as illustrating better the idea of heaven’s
+light. Maran is the light of day.
+
+
+_Thursday, August 19th._--The village was hushed in the stillness of
+slumber again about midnight, and I was preparing for bed, too, and
+kneeling down to say my prayers, when another quite sharp earthquake
+shock was felt, and the sensation came upon me very solemnly and
+impressively while so engaged. I cannot say why I trembled, but I did,
+and it was quite instinctive. However, I went to bed and slept
+profoundly. We have had another slight shock of domestic earthquake here
+this morning, and Ann, one of our young married women, after rating her
+husband, started off for Naruru, and we were quite in a ferment here for
+a short time. However, this evening, her parents went for her, and I
+have had to give her a scolding. I told her that anger was like a charge
+of dynamite, it not only exploded itself, but it produced destructive
+effects far and wide, indeed there was no knowing what the extent of its
+mischief might be. She seemed penitent, and was utterly ashamed of her
+unchristian conduct. I am thankful to say that scenes of domestic
+warfare are uncommon here, and, generally speaking, a great deal of
+harmony prevails, but of course there are clouds in the most perfect
+day, and the smoothest ocean is at times ruffled by the sudden breeze.
+Beyond this, our day has been like most other days, except for the
+thatching of Peter’s “gamal,” which has brought together a large
+concourse of people, and has been the occasion of a great festivity this
+evening. Arthur, Patrick and myself walked down to Ruosi in the
+afternoon, where we bathed, and returned in the evening. Our evening
+duties as usual.
+
+
+_Friday, August 20th._--Certainly we are blessed with the most glorious
+weather. This morning was simply perfect, and one almost wishes one
+could keep some of its coolness for the middle of the day, when the heat
+is very great.
+
+After school and breakfast this morning, some of the people invited me
+to go with them eel catching. As the performance was new to me, I gladly
+assented. The scene of the sport lay in the direction of the water fall,
+and I took my camera, hoping to get a good view of it.
+
+We followed the course of the stream, and waded through the taro
+gardens, and finally found ourselves in the most advantageous position
+for a photograph. It ought to be good, after all my efforts to secure
+the picture, but I could not get far enough away. While I have been
+writing this, since I began the last sentence, an earthquake shock has
+shaken the place very perceptibly, and, why I know not, has left a
+tremour all over me, which I cannot explain. The picture being shot
+off, I hastened back to where the eel catching was going on. The water
+was cleverly dammed off above two large pools, and then one pool
+“teemed” out with buckets. In the first pool nothing was discovered, and
+the next proceeding was to empty the full pool into the now empty one.
+This took some time, but it was finally accomplished, and one large eel
+was captured, the sole occupant of the pool, and the only sport afforded
+after a long day’s work. Disappointment was depicted on all
+countenances, and I was rather disgusted too, having expected to see
+some sport. I comforted myself with a most glorious bathe in the broad
+flowing river, and hastened home to drown my disappointment in a cup of
+tea.
+
+After school this evening, I was sitting here alone, when four men came
+in, in whispers, and shut the door behind them, and when they had sat
+down, they said, still in the lowest accents, “we wish to see your
+Eucharistic vessels.” I proceeded to exhibit them, and they seemed quite
+awe struck. Miss Patteson would have been pleased to have seen how her
+noble gift was valued and appreciated. The exhibition of the beautiful
+vessels gave me much food for conversation with these men, and I told
+them I hoped the day was not far distant when they would be regularly
+used in the Church here, and they themselves be partakers from them of
+the Blessed Tokens of Redeeming Love, the bread of the world in mercy
+broken, the wine of the soul in mercy shed.
+
+
+_Saturday, August 21st._--General holiday as usual. Nothing of
+particular importance marked the day, except the visit of three nice
+fellows from Uta. The British Workman’s Almanac adorns my walls, and
+they were particularly struck with the picture of Lord Shaftesbury which
+occupies the centre. Curiously, many others have admired this same
+picture, why I do not know, except perhaps from its size. I told these
+visitors all about the late Earl, of his philantrophy and the goodness
+of his life, and I told them too, of the philantrophy and goodness of a
+greater than he, “who went about doing, and healing all manner of
+diseases and sicknesses among the people.” They asked me if I had heard
+the earthquake of late, to which I responded in the affirmative, and
+told them of the terrible outburst of volcanic power at Tarawera, and
+the fearful and alarming results, and I said there was no knowing but it
+might be our turn next, and we ought to try and be prepared for whatever
+lay before us. I urged them to fly, while they had the opportunity, to
+the Higher Rock, for there we should find shelter and protection until
+the tyranny were overpast, and any such visitation would be but to bring
+us the quicker to a haven of rest and safety, whither such things never
+come. They asked me if I could not spare some regular teacher to come
+and live with them, to teach them the wonderful things of God’s law, and
+expound more fully to them, the things concerning the Kingdom of God. I
+promised them a weekly service, but I could do no more just yet.
+
+
+_Sunday, August 22nd._--A most glorious Sabbath morning. We had school
+before breakfast, both because it was cooler and also on account of the
+blue bottle flies, which become very troublesome in the heat of the day,
+where people are congregated together. Before our school duties were
+over, they became very numerous, and I was not sorry to get back to the
+refuge and quiet of my own house. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer,
+a very nice service, but not rendered more solemn by the presence, in
+crowds, of those disgusting pests, the flies. However, they are an
+inevitable worry, from which there seems no chance of escape. After
+Prayers I went to the Unduna villages, and talked to the few people I
+found there. They were keeping Sunday, they said, i.e. they were doing
+no work and were generally idling. I asked why they did not come to
+Church as formerly, and they said it was too far. I asked why then did
+not they build a school there, and I would be responsible for the
+teaching in it. They so far assented as to say that they would see about
+it, when they had got through with their yam planting. There is a nice
+little population there, and I have always had it on my conscience that
+nothing practical or definite had been done for them. Natives do not
+care to go to the trouble of a few yards more or less for religion, so I
+suppose the alternative is that religion must go to them. One very nice
+man called “Vangoro,” was most energetic about the building, in
+promising to get it done and helping all he could, he is a leading man
+there too, and I hope my desire will be accomplished.
+
+It was very hot coming back, and I was in a liquid state when I got
+home. The evening was deliriously cool and fine, and I enjoyed it
+outside my house with several of the people.
+
+Evensong was a very nice quiet service, and I preached on the subject of
+the Collect (9th Sunday after Trinity), the “spirit to think and do
+always such things as were rightful.” I hope I got intelligent
+attention. We had some nice singing afterwards, and the people went very
+quietly home.
+
+
+_Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday._--Blank days.
+
+On Monday there were great festivities here, and a dance till morning. I
+began to feel ill in the evening, and spent a most wretched night. On
+Tuesday I was unwell all day, and could do nothing. On Wednesday I was
+fearfully ill all day with a severe attack of fever and ague, and lay
+down under all the wraps I could secure, until the hot fit came on with
+a very severe headache. In the evening the boys surprised me by saying
+there was a white man outside, and I was glad to welcome Mr. Blackburne,
+Government agent of the Sybil, from Queensland. The vessel anchored at
+the watering place, and the boys told him “Missionary he plenty sick.”
+He therefore very kindly came up and spent the night with me. He has
+just left me now, and I have not strength to go with him to the ship.
+However, I am better to-day, and hope after a big dose of Quinine he has
+given me, that I shall be better.
+
+
+_Tuesday, August 31st._--I have wasted a whole week, and only to-day
+feel equal to doing anything or going anywhere. To-day for the first
+time for a week, I have moved out of the village boundaries, and have
+been to the river with the boys and bathed.
+
+It has been a sickly time here all together, and many besides myself
+have been laid by. It is bearably pleasant to be pent up day by day
+within doors when feeling well, but almost unbearably so when one feels
+ill and out of sorts. However, I trust it is all over now, please God,
+and I must endeavour to make up for lost time. Several of the people,
+Arthur included, have been quite ill through eating a certain eel,
+caught somewhere in the sea and very poisonous. They all detected the
+burning, stinging sensation on their lips, tongue and palate as soon as
+they had eaten it, but fancied it was the taro. From that time till the
+end of the week, they have been all laid up, and one or two have been
+very bad indeed. They have experienced not only burning, sharp pains
+internally, and pricking, poignant stabbing pains in the palms of the
+hands and soles of the feet, but have suffered a great deal also from
+strong and utter prostration with an abhorrent distaste for food.
+Several others were warned betimes from partaking, or the poisoning
+might have been more general. This particular eel was caught by a
+heathen on a Sunday, and therefore its peculiarly deleterious and
+poisonous qualities have been traced by the more virtuous to that fact,
+of which no cognizance was taken before it was cooked and eaten, nor
+would have been afterwards, but for its effects. The really admitted
+fact, however, I believe, is that certain fish caught at certain parts
+of the beach at particular seasons of the year, have all a more or less
+poisonous effect on those who eat them. The people themselves say it is
+the feed they find there which makes them poisonous, but it may be
+inherent in the nature of the particular fish. I remember on many
+occasions on board the _Southern Cross_, the natives looking askance at
+some very tempting looking fish which had been caught, and pronouncing
+them dangerous to eat. On one very memorable occasion, when dinner was
+over, one of the senior boys being cook, and one of the most poisonous
+of fish having been served and partaken of by all, this youth without a
+change of feature saying to some remark that was passed, “Oh! Yes, we
+die in our country if we eat that fish.” This was reassuring after what
+had passed, and we eyed one another with wistful and anxious faces,
+thinking whether or not perchance our end may have been hastened by our
+wilful inadvertence in thus partaking of deadly poison. But we neither
+swelled, nor fell down dead, and felt no ill effects. Many a time, too,
+since, I have eaten the same fish with the like happy and successful
+result. This particular kind of eel, however, has played the same _post
+mortem_ tricks before, and taken his revenge for wrongs received before
+going into the oven. The people tell me that those who have eaten, have
+become like mummies, their hair and skin have changed to a ghastly
+leaden hue, and have fallen off like a snake’s skin. How far this is
+true or fable, I know not, but it may be partially credible. Nothing of
+the sort has happened fortunately, at this present crisis, and the
+sufferers are about again.
+
+A dull, dark evening ushered in a blustery, rough night, and the coughs
+and sneezings and other demonstrative sounds peculiar to people who do
+not carry pocket handkerchiefs, bore testimony to the fact of an
+epidemic catarrh, contracted during a very inclement week. Like the
+Norfolk Islanders, they look for the source of such things in the world
+without, and accuse my friend Mr. Blackburne of having brought it here,
+all the way from Queensland. In what part of his luggage he secreted so
+desirable a communication I know not, but they are decidedly of opinion
+that he it was who ‘gave them’ the cold, and they were unwise enough to
+‘catch it’ from him. He ‘had’ the cold, they said, when he came here,
+and certainly said I, I believe he took it away again. However, as colds
+are catching, I suppose they must be left content with their belief, and
+to ‘bless him,’ I hope, every time they sneeze.
+
+
+_Wednesday, September 1st._--Another full month past and gone, and
+leaving I fear, but a poor memory of much good done behind it. The days
+here certainly fly past one after another in rapid flight, and the very
+monotony of existence speeds their departure. One day is so like another
+that it passes unmarkedly by, and one finds oneself, all at once, at the
+end of the week, and is brought to final consciousness of the rapid
+rotation of time’s wheels at the end of the month. What has been done in
+the month? I fear there is but a poor record. God grant that I myself
+may have, by His Grace, made one step forward, and have been
+instrumental in leading others also onward to a higher and better life,
+and to that final epoch where the flight of time is unmarked by days and
+weeks and months and years, for time itself will be swallowed up in
+eternity.
+
+Nothing much happened to-day. A bright morning seemed likely to usher in
+a fine and brilliant day, but in the forenoon the rain pelted down, and
+for some hours we had a glorious downpour. The “blue bottles” gave
+indication of this at Prayers and morning school, and I have never known
+them in such numbers or so troublesome. One perfectly loathed oneself,
+but escape from them was impossible, they crowded my house, which is
+generally free from their incursions, and the poor people seemed quite
+distracted. This is the great yam planting season, and everyone was away
+after school busy at his garden. The heavy rain, however, drove them
+home, and some took refuge here with me. Natives are not great hands for
+introducing originality into their conversation, nor do they go much
+beyond the sight of their eyes, or the hearing of their ears for their
+subject matter. Any prominent object which attracts their attention is
+made the subject of remark. This is a specimen of the sort of
+conversation which goes on. I was writing when my friends came in, “Oh!
+you are writing!” “Yes, what else did you suppose I should be doing with
+pen, ink and paper?” “Oh! this is a curious tin, what is in it? Meat?”
+“You are the 101st person who has asked that self-same question, I
+answered the 100 before you with the monosyllabic negative, No, and I
+give you the same answer.” “What then is in it? Fish?” “No.” “Fruit?”
+“Yes, I hope you are satisfied.” “Oh! I see you have a “kove” (native
+flute) up there in the thatch, who gave it you?” “You yourself have
+asked that same question ten times before, and I have always given the
+same answer, ‘Arthur,’ next time perhaps you will know without asking.”
+“You have a bow and arrow there, where did you get them?” “Considering
+that every person in the village knows from whence they came, and has
+made them the subject of general conversation for weeks, I wonder you
+should be the only person ignorant of their origin, especially as you
+were here when I brought them from Tasmouri.” This is the style of thing
+which goes on, and except that one is glad to accede to any means for
+introducing conversation, one would soon weary of it. They themselves do
+not seem to mind going over and over again the same conversation, and
+wading through the same minutiæ of detail, and they expect one to be
+equally patient. The rain gave me a good opportunity of planting my new
+fence, and I planted, as a start, a number of oranges around my house.
+The evening was fine, and the moon already quite sizeable. We had the
+usual singing school after Prayers, with very good success. When the
+practice was over, I asked the older men to sing some of their own
+songs, and they readily complied. Old blind Daniel is the great leader,
+and knows all the songs. There are three parts to the native song, (1)
+the person who starts and sings the air as in a Gregorian tone, and then
+follows (2) a chorus, then (3) a single voice takes up the air again,
+and this is followed by the chorus. The first singer is said to “tau”
+the song, the second to “sawu,” and the chorus to “lai.” The songs are
+very pretty, and they kept them up with spirit for quite an hour. Some
+of the singers beat a weird kind of accompaniment with bamboos, and kept
+most excellent time. When the performance was over, it was time to
+retire, and soon quietness warned me that it was time for me, too, to be
+going to rest.
+
+
+_Thursday, September 2nd._--How the days seem to chase one another in
+ever too hasty flight! It seems no sooner morning than the night is here
+again. We tried the experiment to-day of having prayers even earlier
+than usual, to be rid of the noxious blue bottles, but only partially
+succeeded in anything like freedom from them. At the school subsequently
+they were more troublesome, I think, than ever, and it was not an easy
+matter to keep one’s own or one’s pupils’ attention, with these hideous
+creatures buzzing about. After Prayers and school one is fairly ready
+for breakfast, and by the time that is over the day has already worn on
+towards Noon.
+
+It is the commencement of planting time now, and the people are very
+busy day after day in their yam gardens preparing the soil. It is by no
+means easy work, and they certainly make a very good show by the end of
+the day.
+
+I always like to get out somewhere if I can every day, for I find my
+health is better for the constant out-door exercise. This morning the
+people were all going shrimping, and I accepted an invitation to go with
+them to a place called ‘Niewotu.’ I had never been there before, and I
+was charmed with the picturesque beauty of it. A clear, flowing river is
+utilized for the purpose of irrigation, and there one saw again the
+quaint little taro beds so deftly laid out, and the showy crotons and
+dracænas ornamenting the immediate view, while all round the bush was
+thickly matted with innumerable, and almost impenetrable creepers with
+masses of white and pink flowers. In the direct foreground one got a
+peep of the bright blue sea sparkling in the midday heat. A bathe, and
+green cocoanuts were very agreeable and most refreshing. The boon of
+abundance of water in these hot countries is inestimable, and this
+island is rich in its water supply. Araga again on the other hand is
+very badly off, and Opa not much better.
+
+Evening duties as usual, and some hymn singing afterwards.
+
+
+_Saturday, September 4th._--After Prayers and breakfast, the boys and I
+started for a long meditated journey up the coast. It was a most
+glorious day, but very hot, the sun scorching down with pitiless heat.
+We embarked at Kerepei, sixteen of us all told, and rowed away against
+the Trade wind which was blowing strong down the coast. We were a merry
+party, and the shore view was very beautiful as we coasted along. From
+the point of embarkation to Tanrowo, a distance of eight or ten miles,
+there is not a single “salt water” native, and it seems a great pity to
+see so much valuable land lying fallow, when it might be utilised for
+almost any purpose. As we rounded the Point between us and Tanrowo,
+called “Vaturowa,” we saw a vessel at anchor in the distance. The heat
+on the water was intense, and I felt myself being scorched about the
+face and hands. The natives, hatless and clotheless, did not seem to
+mind it, and their exuberant spirits were proof against almost any outer
+evil. We saw some people along the coast, and conversed with them at
+several places. Arriving at “Beitarara,” we saw a number of people we
+knew. We of course asked about the “schooner” at anchor, and they said
+they did not know what she was, as she had only just a short time before
+come to her anchorage. However, the boat painted red was coming towards
+us, and soon we were within speaking distance. I asked where she was
+from, and what was her errand. As they came close to us, I heard my name
+called, and found myself shaking hands with Captain Martin of the
+schooner “Idaho” from Noumea. I met him years ago when he was in charge
+of the “John S. Lane,” Captain McCleod owner, and he very kindly then
+towed me across from Opa to Pentecost Island. He seemed very glad to see
+me, and invited me on board. He now belongs to the “Nouvelles Hebrides”
+Company, and was recruiting labour for “Port Sandwich” in Mallicollo.
+The Company had bought land here at “Beitarara,” and he just dropped in
+to see the people. He was very kind and amiable, and I spent some time
+on board, and made some purchases.
+
+The boat then started for our destination, where we found many amiable,
+friendly people awaiting us, and although they had sold their land, they
+had very hazy notions as to how much had been purchased, or what was to
+be done with it. After spending some time with them, we gave them some
+presents, and then found it was time to be getting homeward. A strong
+favourable breeze took us rapidly to the Kerepei. Arriving at “Ruosi,”
+we found a large number of our people awaiting us, with a smoking hot
+supper they had cooked for us there. We arrived here tired and sunburnt
+just before dark. Evensong followed, and a singing practice for Sunday.
+
+
+_Sunday, September 5th._--School very early on account of the blue
+bottles. I took all the old men into the Church and talked to them
+there. They paid good attention, and I hope remembered something of what
+they were taught. I tried to explain how God declared His Almighty Power
+most chiefly in showing mercy and pity. There were times when He
+revealed Himself as a consuming fire, but that was in His attitude
+towards sin, but the whole being and essence of God was love. After
+breakfast I started with Patrick for “Mandurvat” by way of “Naruru.”
+Anthony had already had Morning Prayer, so I did not stay long there,
+but pushed on for my destination. It was very hot walking, and I was
+very liquid when I arrived at Mandurvat. Sunday travelling here is much
+more tiring than week-day work, for you are obliged to respect the day a
+little, as regards the clothing you wear. I had not a very large
+congregation, and when service was over I asked the reason. The people
+then told me that a certain man called “Ala” had “tabu’d” (_i.e._ made
+sacred) the school, and prevented the people of his village from
+attending service. I protested against this, and when I had said my say,
+the plucky young teacher “Tarione” at once went to the village, and
+broke the “tabu,” rendering himself liable to a fine of pigs or perhaps
+a knock on the head. “Ala” was not at home or I would have gone to see
+him. However, I believe Tarione did all I could do, and perhaps more. I
+was very much pleased with the way some of the scholars had been taught,
+and two females especially, took me quite by surprise. These people have
+no baptized teacher, and the efficiency of the school is entirely owing
+to the exertion and perseverance of two young men, Tarione
+aforementioned and “Livotari.” The latter requested Baptism for himself,
+wife and child, and Tarione has previously expressed the same wish. Now
+that the tabu is taken off, or at least broken, no doubt the scholars
+will increase, but it reflects great credit on these young fellows that
+they have built the school themselves, taught themselves to read, and do
+their best to teach their people. They are a most friendly, good-natured
+people, and act up to their limited light and knowledge. They have
+prayers and school every day, and this is very wonderful, when one
+considers the few advantages they have had. “Masa,” the leading man of
+the district, was present at the service, and was very enthusiastic in
+the after conversation. They gave us a sumptuous luncheon of various
+kinds of “loko,” and we started for Tanrig when the sun’s rays began
+somewhat to decline. At “Naruru” we stopped some time, and I addressed
+the people. Anthony afterwards came on with me to Tanrig. Here, in the
+evening, I preached on the subject of the Gospel, the Pharisee and the
+Publican, and tried to adduce some healthful lessons from the parable.
+We were somewhat inclined by nature to think more highly of ourselves
+than we ought to think, and not to be sober and humble in our self
+consideration. Because we attended service regularly, and were very
+accurate in our daily lives, we were apt to despise others around us,
+who were not so exact, and were still living heathen lives. When we came
+before God, our thought ought not to be of our own worthiness or
+goodness in His sight, still less of the depravity and wickedness of
+others, but our attitude and our language should be that of our own
+utter unworthiness and sinfulness, we should imitate the action and
+adopt the words of the Publican rather than that of the Pharisee, and
+smite our breasts and say, “God be merciful to me a sinner.” What we
+sought from all our services was to go down to our houses justified, and
+the only road to justification and righteousness was humility. That was
+the only road for white and black people alike, for teacher and taught,
+for Priest and people. How many of us would be justified that night? How
+many of us were growing day by day in grace, and in the knowledge of
+our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ?
+
+
+_Monday, September 6th._--Captain Martin had kindly offered to tow me
+and my boat’s crew across to Opa if I could manage to be ready. He would
+come down and anchor at Kerepei, and fire a gun as a signal for me. The
+gun went, but I was not ready, and after breakfast I went down to tell
+him so. Being a French ship they kept French hours, and I found a second
+breakfast awaiting me on board. Twelve people had recruited at Tanrowo,
+and all had been bought with snider rifles, and plenty of ammunition.
+French and English recruiting laws are very different. Vessels from
+Queensland and Fiji are not allowed to give guns or ammunition to the
+natives, but the French do just as they like. While I was on board,
+another silly female was recruited. In one of her humours she had run
+away from her husband, and had come a distance of twelve or fifteen
+miles, to be engaged for three years as the slave and tool of some
+depraved Frenchman on one of the island stations. I could say nothing,
+although I knew the result of the embarkation. However, the Captain
+promised me that he would call again at the place, and see the woman’s
+friends, and if they consented to her going, he would keep her and pay
+for her, but if not, she should be put on shore again. How far or how
+truly he will carry out his promise I do not know, but he is a tender
+hearted and, I think, an upright man in his dealings with the natives.
+As soon as I was ashore, he lifted his anchor and went up the coast, but
+I have not yet heard what he did. He was very kind to our boys, and gave
+them several tins of meat and biscuits. We made a fire at Ruosi, and
+there they cooked their dinner, while after a bathe I came home. In the
+evening it rained very hard, and just before the bell went for Prayers,
+our congregation was therefore not so large as usual, and our numbers
+thinner at school. I was very tired, and went early to bed.
+
+
+_Wednesday, September 7th._--Very heavy rain during the night succeeded
+this morning by a northerly wind, and a hot, close, oppressive day. I
+have not felt it so warm since I have been here, and I was glad that my
+duties kept me at home, and mostly in doors all the day. Nothing here
+seems possible to be done without a feast and a dance, and all work was
+postponed to-day to do my new fence the honour of having a supper
+prepared for it. Any excuse for eating and dancing. The women were kept
+busy at the ovens cooking, and the men away at the seaside endeavouring
+to get a meal of fish, seemingly the choicest compliment possible to be
+paid to the exterior decoration of my house. The fence making certainly
+was a most laborious business, and the result, if not strikingly
+beautiful, has the advantage of being strong and durable, and hitherto
+pig-proof.
+
+The men returned in the afternoon with about thirty nice fish, which
+were at once consigned to the oven, and in the evening the feast was
+spread here in front of my house, and the whole village assembled to
+partake. Grace was said, and the huge quantities of food distributed,
+and eaten with very evident relish. Postprandial grace having been said,
+the company dispersed, and soon all the festal remnants, too,
+disappeared. The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever seen,
+and I sat outside my house for a long time talking with the people. Many
+were prevented attending by reason of sickness, and our numbers at
+Prayers and school were not so full as usual. After school a dance was
+proposed, but did not come off. Instead thereof, a few of the men came
+and serenaded me, very quietly and softly, and much more in consonance
+with my feelings than the noisy songs and clappings of the dance. It was
+one of those nights in which it was a “shame to go to bed,” but tired
+nature seeks repose, and soon the village was sunk in silent slumber.
+
+
+_Wednesday, September 8th._--Another most glorious morning followed by a
+very hot and ennervating day. After our morning duties here, public and
+private, I went with some of the boys to Ruosi. It was very pleasant
+there by the water side, and one got a perfect freedom from the blue
+bottles, which invaded my house in such numbers, this morning, that I
+had to retire. The discomfort of these loathsome creatures is excessive,
+and one gets away from them as far as possible. Not having had a washing
+day for some days, I made one to-day, and myself turned washerwoman. The
+one idea of natives with respect to clothes washing, is to pile on the
+soap agony, and leave your garments as stiff as a board, and almost as
+uncomfortable to wear. I entrusted a pair of white flannel trowsers, and
+a white flannel coat to one of the boys to wash, but I tremble to think
+what the result will be. On our way homeward we were stopped by loud
+“cooes” from the rear rank, and Patrick came running forward to say
+“They are here.” Soon a white hat appeared, and I fancied at once it
+must be the “Southern Cross,” but wondered why she had come so quickly.
+
+However, I was soon undeceived, and was greeted by Mr. Coates,
+Government Agent of the “Lord of the Isles” from Fiji. He was
+photographing the Falls, and the boys brought him on here. He was very
+amiable, and followed me on to the village. He took three views of
+different parts of the place, and after staying a short time returned
+again to the ship as night was rapidly approaching. It is so seldom that
+a white man ventures up here, that the sight of one is a seven days’
+wonder. He came quite unarmed, and was evidently not frightened by the
+ferocity of our people. It is customary to look upon natives as
+naturally wild and ferocious, and few white men trust themselves among
+them without arms. However, of course we always go armed with a Power
+more protective than a Colt’s revolver, and we, I suppose, engender
+trust in the natives by trusting them.
+
+The “Lord of the Isles” is a large ship of 300 tons, and has brought
+over two hundred natives from Fiji as returned labour.
+
+Mr. Coates told me that the Conservative Government was in power with
+Lord R. Churchill as Premier, and that the English Government had sent
+an ultimatum to the French to withdraw their troops from the New
+Hebrides, or their action in sending them there would be looked upon as
+a breach of faith and an act of aggression. There will be troubles down
+here yet I fear, with all the shilly-shallying there is over the
+annexation of these islands. The French are evidently intending some
+forward step, for they have troops both in Havannah Harbour, and Port
+Sandwich (Mallicollo), and the Nouvelles-Hebrides Company are buying
+land right and left all over these islands. It would not be pleasant to
+find myself a prisoner in France instead of a free man in England, and I
+hope there may be no fear of such a criterion.
+
+Our evening duties as usual ended with singing.
+
+
+_Thursday, September 9th._--Another most glorious morning, and a bright
+warm day. My home duties kept me here till far on in the day, when I
+joined a large picnic party at Ruosi. Certainly these natives take life
+easily, and in their own way get a good deal of enjoyment out of it.
+They seem utterly devoid of that care and worry which kills so many of
+us, and certainly follow the Scripture injunction as to taking no
+anxious thought. Nature affords them all they want for their bodily
+comfort, and I trust religion supplies the rest. It is perfectly
+wonderful how far more merry and light hearted they are than their
+heathen neighbours, and I fondly hope the secret is within, such jolly,
+amiable, good-natured creatures they are, and so happy and friendly and
+harmonious among themselves. The sportsmen to the number of twelve or
+fifteen went off in search of wild fowl, or any other of the feathered
+tribe they might come across, the cooks setting to work to get the oven
+alight and start the cooking. Prawns were caught in abundance, and were
+eaten with roasted taro, as a sort of lunch, and green cocoanuts were
+secured as the refreshing beverage. It was an animated and picturesque
+scene, and in the evening the sportsmen returned with five fowls and one
+owl, an odd looking object, as the result of their day’s sport. These
+birds were soon consigned to the oven with the other food, and were
+partaken of in the evening. I came away beforehand and had my dinner
+here. It was a most gloriously still and beautiful evening and the
+native songs sung by the boys coming home, sounded very pretty in the
+distance. There seems to have been an exuberant joyous spirit about
+to-day, animating everyone, and never since I have been here, have I
+known so hearty and bright a service as we had this evening.
+
+After school most of the boys and younger men went to “Unduna,” a
+_suburb_ of Tanrig, to a great dance, which is to be kept up till
+morning light. The occasion of it is the ‘nasu’ing of two gamals
+to-morrow, and nothing can be done without a dance. Arthur, who has
+neither the strength nor the inclination to go, has been keeping me
+company, and we have had some nice and profitable conversation. He has
+left me now, and in the stillness of the most glorious night, the song
+of the dancers breaks upon one’s ear, and makes one conscious that one
+is in the Melanesian Islands. Besides that one sound, nothing else is
+audible, and I myself am going to prepare for the quiet and rest of my
+humble couch.
+
+
+_Saturday, September 11th._--Started this morning after breakfast for
+Tasmate by boat, and saw a vessel heading in for the watering place.
+This was the _Southern Cross_ from the islands, and before long she came
+to anchor and we were on board shaking hands. We were somewhat surprised
+to see the Bishop, but he was not well and was going for the change to
+Norfolk Island. None of the party on board looked very well, but they
+were going South and would soon feel the benefit of the colder weather.
+Mr. Turnbull came back with me and spent the night here. After service I
+held a consultation with the teachers as to Arthur’s going to Norfolk
+Island, and they were unanimous that he ought to go. A. P. Huqe offered
+to stay in his place. The vessel was much earlier than I expected her,
+but none too early. The news generally, very good.
+
+There were five earthquake shocks to-day, one of which was very severe,
+felt equally on shore and at sea. The Captain fancied the ship was on a
+rock.
+
+
+_Monday, September 13th._--Yesterday I spent at Tanrig. Mr. Turnbull
+slept the night with me, and spent the whole of Sunday. We had school in
+the early morning and after that, breakfast. Then followed Morning
+Prayer with a very large congregation. In the afternoon Mr. Comins, Mr.
+Plant, Mr. Brittain, the Captain, Engineer, and a large number of
+Melanesians came up to see the village and stayed to our social meal in
+the evening. They were all quite charmed with the people and the place,
+and enjoyed very much the pleasant walk. Mr. Turnbull took his
+departure, and Mr. Brittain spent the night with me. The party, with the
+exception of Mr. Comins, were not successful on the return journey and
+missing the track got into the taro gardens, and floundered about in the
+mud in the most helpless confusion. Not finding a way out of their
+difficulty they tried back, and hit happily upon the right track. This
+little episode threw somewhat of a damper upon the visit, and the party
+returned rather wet and crestfallen to the ship. Mr. Comins was accused
+of being the cause of the misfortune, and I believe those who fared
+worse than he heaped their approbrium on him when they got on board. The
+Bishop was not well, and we were all disappointed not to see him at our
+head quarters. Naturally, a visit from our Bishop is looked upon as a
+red letter day by our people, and if he cannot come the disappointment
+is very apparent. Mr. Brittain and I dined together and spent a most
+pleasant evening. It was a most glorious evening, and the calm peace of
+a cloudless sunset gave place to the most brilliant moonlight. We sat
+outside the house talking to the people until Prayer time. The service
+was a very impressive one, for I got Arthur to say a few words to his
+people before leaving them, and the thought of going away raised a great
+lump in his throat, and for some moments, although generally so ready
+and so eloquent, he could not say a word. Several times there was a
+tremble in his voice and he was nigh to breaking down, and his own
+undisguisable emotion produced a visible effect on his congregation. He
+said in the course of his remarks, that to-day they had seen a great
+concourse of people at their village, of many colours and nationalities.
+But though divided by race, differing in speech, and separated in
+locality, they were all one people with them, because through Christ
+they were all united in one, owning one God and Father of all, believing
+one Common Saviour, knit together by one Spirit, and professing one
+religion. Though so many and so various we were all one in Christ. And
+then he went on to speak of himself and them, still carrying on the same
+idea, and he said that although divided in bodily presence, unseen by
+the bodily eye, and separated by the wide ocean, they were still one in
+spirit and in heart. Oceans could not separate those whom God had joined
+together, and whether near or far they were still all one in Christ. And
+then almost overcome, he said it might be God’s will that they should
+never again see each others’ faces, but they must look forward to the
+great meeting time beyond the grave, where parting would again be
+unknown, and those whom Christ had joined together, and made one in
+Himself should be one for ever with Him and behold His glory. Because
+they were going to be separated it was no reason that they should forget
+each other, but day by day they should remember each other at the Throne
+of Grace, until such time as they should be reunited in this world, or
+if not, in the world to come. I followed with a few remarks, and a very
+impressive service concluded with the Blessing. After the service I
+called the teachers together to make final arrangements for our
+departure to-morrow, and Patrick was quite content to take charge of the
+school. I am very glad that he should, and I quite feel that the extra
+responsibility will be good for him.
+
+Arthur Huqe will go with me to Opa for the change, and return again with
+me when the ship comes back from Norfolk Island. Two Maewo lads have
+expressed a wish to go with us to Opa, and I am very glad of any
+exchange of friendship between the two islands. It will do them good to
+see other places, and enlarge their minds and ideas to see other people
+beside themselves. Moreover, being with Arthur, a native of Opa, they
+will not feel so lonely as if going by themselves. They are two nice
+boys, and I hope they will profit by the little outing.
+
+Mr. Brittain’s enthusiasm was quite cheering, and we were very late in
+getting to bed, being so busy talking over our mutual work, inasmuch as
+our district is one, and he knows the people here so well.
+
+This morning we were astir very early, and after Prayers and breakfast
+were very busy getting ready for our departure. Many hands made light
+work, and soon our impedimenta were shouldered by willing bearers, and
+we were on our way for the Kerepei. We had a most pleasant walk down,
+Mr. Brittain most cheery and appreciative all the way, and we were all
+on board very soon after the stipulated time, 10 o’clock. We had a
+light wind to start with, but it soon fell calm, and the engineer’s
+services were called into requisition. It is very hot work steaming in
+these latitudes, and the cabin especially gets very stuffy. We anchored
+at Opa between five and six o’clock, and I got my things ready for the
+start ashore in daylight. Mr. Brittain and Mr. Turnbull came with me,
+and we visited the French Trader ashore, who was said to have the latest
+telegrams. We were quite astonished, not only at the polite manner in
+which we were received, but by the neat and tastey appearance of the
+little man’s premises and dwelling house. He is evidently a man of
+considerable genius, and far more energy than most of the Traders down
+in these parts.
+
+His kitchen garden was a sight to behold, and although for three months
+he has had no rain he has an abundance of cabbages, carrots, onions,
+shalots, garlick, parsley, spinnach, lettuce, &c. The whole garden too
+is laid out in the most natty matter, showing wonderful care and
+perseverance. Inside his house it was equally neat, and the walls were
+decorated with an enormous number of island curiosities. During the
+slack time of the year when cocoanuts are scarce he makes very curious,
+but extremely chaste, ornaments out of shells, and sells them to Traders
+at about fifteen shillings the pair. He also makes sleeve links out of
+opercules, and many other ornaments of personal adornment. He gave us a
+great basket full of eggs, and some green food for the ship. We bade the
+amiable and loquacious little man good-bye, and thanked him for his
+kindness, and then pushed on for Tavalavola where we found the whole
+village waiting for us, and Charles and Monica heading the party. I was
+most pleased to see the happy and affectionate relations which existed
+between them, and the natural and unaffected way in which she came into
+my house, and the kind care she exhibited in the bestowal of my goods
+and chattels. Afterwards when we went off to the ship she came with us,
+and went down of her own accord to see the Bishop in the cabin. We did
+not stay long on board, but bidding farewell to them all we came ashore
+for the night. I should have liked of course to stay till morning, but
+they were so crowded on board I thought it was better we were out of the
+way. It was near midnight when we finally retired for the night, and I
+was very tired and glad to get to bed. The boys are so nice and
+friendly, and come in and out of my house so naturally, that it gives
+one quite a homely feeling, and when they call me “Mama” (Father) I feel
+quite proud of the spiritual relationship. I quite look forward to my
+stay here, and I hope under it God may be the means of much good.
+
+
+_Tuesday, September 14th._--Most beautiful morning, but the night was
+very cold, and I was very glad of a blanket over me. We had Prayers and
+school before breakfast, the scholars numbering about 50 of both sexes.
+I was quite astonished at the admirable way most of them read and
+answered, and equally struck with the diligent and painstaking manner in
+which the boys were teaching. The school is admirably conducted, and
+peculiarly well and thoroughly taught. The scholars are evidently very
+sharp, and one or two little boys and a very little wee girl read
+surprisingly well. Charles, the head teacher, is a most steady and
+excellent young fellow, and to him the credit of the efficiency of the
+school is mainly due. All the other boys however, work well and steadily
+with him, and I was particularly gratified to see what a helpmeet his
+wife Monica is to him. In the course of the day the older people were
+about, and I told them I wanted them to come and get instruction also,
+to which they consented. While I was at breakfast the French Trader
+called on me and brought me a most noble present of green food, for
+which I was deeply grateful. He was very amiable, most polite and
+peculiarly loquacious, and I was quite interested in listening to his
+broken English. He is a Parisian and was in the ‘garde mobile’ during
+the siege by the Prussians, which of course means that he is a
+Communist. He left me after a time, and I set to work to put my house in
+order. The boys went to ‘Tahi mamavi,’ where we have a school, which I
+hope we shall be able now to teach regularly. Meramaeto (Paskal) had
+been there living, but some trouble broke out and he had to come away in
+consequence. Now all is pacific again, and we hope to make another fresh
+and vigorous start, which I hope will be permanent. In the afternoon I
+went to see a Trader who had sent me a request to visit him, not having
+a boat of his own. His complaint was, that having a Frenchman on either
+side of him, and he doing a better trade than either they were jealous
+of him, and had threatened him with violence if he did not leave. He is
+a Scotchman and a very decent fellow. The Frenchmen had threatened also
+to lay hands on his copra, looking on him as an interloper, inasmuch as
+they suppose the French are about to annex the New Hebrides group. I did
+all I could to explain his position to the natives, and ‘Tabi’ the
+chief, and really a big man, said that while he dealt fairly with them
+he would see that he was properly protected and fairly dealt with. I
+told him that he and I were subjects of one Queen, and of a different
+nationality to the Frenchmen, and that being a steady and well-behaved
+and honest man he ought to help him all he could. He had a great many
+nuts, and a large amount of copra, and I should say he was doing very
+well. He does not trade with powder, or guns, or spirit, and is
+evidently a very temperate man. He asked me to tell the natives not to
+bring the coconuts on Sunday as he wanted that as a day of Rest, and he
+asked me if I could make it convenient to come and see him sometimes on
+that day, because he wished not to forget his God in the midst of his
+mundane pursuits. He has been a sailor all his life, and has a mate’s
+certificate, I think. He has only been here five weeks from Sydney, and
+hitherto has done very well. I got back to dinner, and then went to see
+David, one of our teachers, who is sick. He was very full of his child,
+about three years old, a perfect prodigy. He told me the child would get
+into a perfect frenzy if he were not allowed to go to school and
+Prayers, and when once or twice he has been left at home he has knelt
+down in their house and gone through the form of prayer by himself. He
+will never go without his clothes, and the only time they can get him to
+take them off is to bathe. Even at night he must have on a garment. His
+mother told me too that his first thought in the morning, even before
+eating, was the bell, and he would tug at her sleeve until she took him
+up and started for the school. The same was the case too, in the
+evening. They also told me of a poor girl who had died about a fortnight
+ago. She has been most regular at school for years past, and was far
+away ahead of all the others in knowledge. She never would marry because
+she was afraid she should be debarred from attending school. She was
+most anxious to be Baptized, and when she was taken ill she still longed
+for Baptism. She importuned Charles so on the subject that just before
+her death, he sprinkled her with water in the Name of the Trinity, and
+signed the sign of the Cross on her forehead. She died perfectly happy
+and at peace, and her devoted life and peaceful death have produced a
+great and profound impression in the village.
+
+While talking with David, his old grandmother came in, and she is a
+woman of great age, and marvellous energy. She is now a great
+grandmother, and a bright, cheery old lady. I asked her how old she
+thought she was, and she said she really did not know, but she was very
+aged. She said that I had always told her that she “tugi vetu” (was as
+hard as flint) and it seemed as if she really was. She comes regularly
+to school, but her eyes are so dim that she can only sit and listen.
+Several old ladies attend school only to sit and listen, and they take
+great interest in coming. In the evening we had Prayers, and a very nice
+school afterwards.
+
+So ends my first day, and I hope all the other days I am here may be as
+pleasant and as happy.
+
+
+_Wednesday, September 15th._--A beautiful morning but a strong Trade
+wind blowing. After our morning duties here we sailed down to ‘Lobaha’
+to see Arudale, Didi and the school there. We pulled the boat up on the
+beach, no very easy work with the sand so soft. Most of the boys were
+down at the beach and we all went up together to the village. It was a
+hot, steep climb and we were very liquid when we got there. The boys
+brought us a plentiful supply of young coconuts and with these we
+quenched our thirst. I was glad to see the amiability which was
+manifested one towards another by our people and the Lobaha folks, for
+lately the relations have been somewhat strained.
+
+It appears that not long ago, the chief wife of our Head man took
+offence at his scolding her, and ran away to his younger brother who
+lives at Lobaha. Our great man was very fond of this wife, for they had
+grown up together from childhood, and she had always presided over his
+establishment in a most devoted manner. She is most queenly in
+deportment, and quite one of the finest native women I have ever seen.
+However, she went off, and “Virclumlum” was not only incensed, but very
+sorely grieved. He told the boys in most pathetic words how he missed
+his wife, how that it seemed unbearable to do without her, how that
+everything seemed void and empty now that she was away. However, once
+away it seems she was away for good, and very soon a pig arrived and
+that he had to accept in lieu of her. For a long time the people here
+have never been to Lobaha and contrariwise the Lobaha people here.
+However, we have, I hope, broken the ice again, although I am
+particularly sorry to lose so nice a woman from the place, and I believe
+she has deeply repented already of her conduct and would give worlds to
+be back again. I was glad to see a new school in course of erection, and
+the old men and women told me they were only waiting for it to be
+finished to all coming to school. Herbert has already a nice little
+building at his own place, but the people say it is too far away, and
+any excuse is enough to keep people away from religious duties. Herbert
+shewed me with manifest pride, the most beautiful tool chest sent by his
+English “mother” (Miss Mount). He has been trying to use the tools, and
+I saw an attempt at some amount of straightness in the new building at
+which he was assisting. We stayed some time with him, talking over
+matters in connection with the school, &c., and then we made
+preparations for home. The wind was blowing strong down the coast, so
+that a sail was useless, and we had a heavy pull. However, the boys are
+very good oarsmen, and we got along famously. I anchored the boat off
+for the night, having use for her again to-morrow. It was a very
+miserable evening, the wind blowing in strong gusts, and the threatened
+rain falling at short intervals. We had Prayers and a very long
+interesting school afterwards. The boys and girls here are very sharp,
+and learn very rapidly, and seem to understand well what they read.
+There are three classes of Catechumens preparing for Baptism, adults,
+boys and girls, all more or less proficient. Altogether, this school is
+very cheering, and with such an excellent head teacher as Charles, one
+need not fear of its stability.
+
+
+_Thursday, September 16th._--After our morning duties were over here we
+rowed up to “Lo tahi mamavi,” and had school there with a large number
+of people, who were very enthusiastic to know more and to be regularly
+taught.
+
+There are a nice lot of boys here, and some already know how to read.
+The old men I had school with, and they seemed quite delighted to say
+the letters one by one, and afterwards to put them together, and find
+out that they made Opa words. I told them as far as I could about our
+religion, and that I had left home, and all to come and live with them
+and teach them, but that Jesus Christ pitied and loved us so much that
+He left heaven, and His Father’s glory to come down into our world to
+live and die for us. They were very attentive, and asked me to come
+again, which I promised to do on Sunday, all being well. They gave us a
+handsome present of food according to native custom, and we left for
+home. It was raining heavily and we got very wet, but the distance was
+not very great. It was a most unpleasant evening, and I was cold and
+miserable, and I began to fear ague again. Last night was most wretched,
+my house was not properly finished, and the strong gusts of wind blew me
+almost out of bed, and brought in clouds of dust. To-day the boys have
+been patching up the holes, and it is more snug and comfortable.
+
+
+_Friday, September 17th._--Fine morning and very close and hot after the
+rain. After breakfast I received a visit from an English Trader, who
+lives about two miles from me. Poor fellow, in my honour he had put on a
+coat, and he was literally running with perspiration when he reached my
+house, and he did not succeed in getting cool again before he left
+although he stayed some time. He seems to be doing a very fair trade
+here in copra, and although he has not been long on the island, he has
+already several tons of the dried coconut (copra). After he left I was
+attacked with a good-for-nothing fit and did nothing all day. In the
+evening I was very queer, and thought I was going to have rheumatism, my
+legs were so cold and my limbs generally so frail. However I managed
+Evensong and school, and was not sorry to be ready early for bed.
+
+
+_Saturday, September 18th._--General holiday here. The boys wished me to
+take them to Vuinago, fishing, to which I rashly consented. It was a
+perfectly windless day and, oh! so hot. We had a long weary pull up, but
+were very successful when we got there, and came home late in the
+evening with about eighty fish. I was very glad to be able to send ten
+to the French Trader, as a return for all his many kindnesses to me, the
+rest were divided out to different great people, and about thirty were
+kept for to-morrow’s dinner. I was very glad the boys did not forget the
+women in their distribution. I had a nice fish for my own tea, a kind of
+mackarel. Very soon after dinner it was Prayer time, and I am now
+preparing for bed being very tired, sunburnt, and sleepy.
+
+The boys are having great fun over the way, and it is evident the outing
+has not had much ill effect on their spirits.
+
+
+_Sunday, September 19th._--Yesterday was perfectly calm and cloudless,
+and to-day again it is blowing very hard, with rain squalls at
+intervals. We began the day with school, and then after an interval for
+breakfast we had Mattins with a fair congregation. The females are very
+enthusiastic and attend very regularly, and the same applies to the
+boys, but the older men are very callous. There are one or two who never
+miss, but the majority are much more concerned with the affairs of this
+world, than about the one thing needful. There are one or two old
+fellows who are very regular, and who seem really to like being taught,
+but most of the men prefer the free and careless life to which they have
+always been accustomed. There are many who feel the beauty of
+Christianity, but it is so hard to them to practise it. They think it
+is all right for boys and women, but they themselves cannot stand the
+bother and burden it entails.
+
+After Prayers we went up to “Tahi mamavi” and found the whole population
+awaiting us. We divided them into five sets, two of boys, one of youths,
+and two of old men. Charles and I taught the old men, and found them
+very attentive. Walter Tarigisibue addressed the youths who seemed
+appreciative, and Paschal and Peter taught the boys who were said to
+learn very quickly. They asked us to fix a day for coming again, and
+said they should expect us every Sunday. I had been feeling sick and
+queer all day, and coming home was violently sick in the boat. I got
+home as quickly as possible, but the sickness continued, accompanied by
+ague, and afterwards strong fever headache, and then strong
+perspiration, and this morning, (Monday) convalescence.
+
+However, I am very washed out and good for nothing, and shall rest at
+home. I am disappointed however, for I meant to have gone to the other
+side of the island in the boat, and had made all my preparations. Now I
+must wait a bit.
+
+
+_Tuesday, September 21st._--Reasonably convalescent again, but weak and
+not fit for much. It was a most unpleasant day however, with fitful
+squalls of rain and wind, and I could not have gone far even if I had
+wanted. The boys were busy planting “Virelumlum’s” yam garden, and were
+kept hard at work all day. I was not surprised, for I previously knew it
+to be the custom here for the chief’s wives to prepare his food in the
+gamal. Generally speaking, women are not admitted within these edifices,
+and more especially here, but to-day Virelumlum’s wives, three or four
+in number, were busy with the men getting ready the evening meal. I
+asked them where they were going to eat themselves, and they said with
+some naïvete, “Oh! that is a secondary matter, we have to get our
+masters’ dinner ready and shift for ourselves as best we may.” It would
+be impossible for them to eat any food cooked in the gamal, and so
+religiously have they been brought up under this restriction, that they
+would probably sooner die of hunger than attempt to appease their
+appetites with what to them is sacred food, or at least forbidden, and
+they are more faithful to the laws of men, than was Eve to the law of
+God. And, I suppose as spiritual death was the judgment on Eve’s
+disobedience, so would physical death be the penalty in case of their
+transgression. Human life is not more highly valued here than it is in
+Ireland, and a woman’s life is not much accounted of, and death is the
+common penalty for very trivial offences. Here it is universally
+averred that woman is at the root of all the evil that transpires, and
+poor things, they are too often the victims where the men go scott free.
+Here the females are much in excess of the males, and naturally polygamy
+is widely practised. The big men however, get the lion’s share, and it
+is no uncommon thing to find a troop of women in the households of the
+chiefs, varying from ten to fifty or even one hundred. All no doubt are
+not wives, but slaves and beasts of burden, and these big guns do
+nothing themselves but impose all the duties of the house and garden on
+their women. I do not think I am maligning the Opa men when I say that I
+look upon them as hideously lazy, but of course that results in large
+measure from their imposing their own natural duties on others, whom
+they find ready or obliged to do it for them. It is quite different at
+Maewo, where monogamy now mostly obtains, and where the men take an
+active and a man’s share in all out door employments. However Virelumlum
+was very active bustling about among his women, and I saw him
+shouldering off a big burden of yams, following up the rear of a troop
+of preceding females.
+
+Here time seems of no importance and no account, and it wearies me
+sometimes to see people squatting about for hours at a time, whistling
+or otherwise killing time. It is an ennervating climate no doubt, but
+that is no excuse for laziness in people who have been born and brought
+up in the country. I often urge laggards and idlers, who make my house a
+convenient lounge, to go to work and plant their fences, but as nothing
+can be done out of due course, what was, is, and ever must be the same.
+
+In the evening there was a great feast spread for the workers, and the
+day finished like all days here, with Evensong and school. This little
+village is a bright spot in the surrounding darkness, and I trust in
+time its influence for good will be more widely felt than even now. The
+attendants at the school seem wonderfully staunch, and the teachers very
+earnest, and I pray God that their vigorous instruction may not be lost
+on the heathen people around them. But there is the same callousness
+attending religious practice as about everything else here, and although
+they see the beauty and the benefit of Christianity, the effort is too
+great to reduce its blessed precepts to daily practice.
+
+
+_Wednesday, September 22nd._--By-and-bye I shall have as much trouble
+with my white flock, as with the black. The white Traders have got some
+feud one against the other because of difference of nationality, and I
+had to listen again to accusations from an Englishman against a
+Frenchman, as to plots against his life and property. Poor man, he is
+new to the business, is doing well, and fancies that he is taking the
+bread out of the Frenchmen’s mouths, but there is room for all. I found
+he was not only filled with gloomy fears himself, but had imbued the
+chief under whom he lives with warlike intentions also, and I had to put
+a veto upon any resort to open violence. I told the chief “Tabi,” that
+he must keep his hands from all white men, and if he had any complaints
+to make, to make them in the proper quarter, and not take the law into
+his own hands. He must learn the sacredness of human life, and not rush
+to bow and arrow and club for every fancied affront or grievance. As
+long as I was here I would do my best to see that peace and harmony
+reigned among whites and blacks, but I would countenance no violence or
+bloodshed. After this I went to the Frenchman at La[¨n]a[¨n]qa, and he
+seemed very surprised to think that he was accused of any ill feeling,
+and judging from his good nature I should imagine his surprise was
+genuine. However, I said it was very hard if a few white men living on
+so large an island, could not live at peace, even if their nationalities
+were various, and if they could not agree among themselves, what could
+be expected of the natives? I quite like the natty little man, and
+certainly he is the best colonist I have ever seen down here. He is a
+most handy man and always employed, and as far as industry goes, he sets
+the natives a very excellent example. The neatness of his house and
+surroundings too, ought to have a good effect.
+
+The fine day turned into a most dirty, rough, unpleasant evening, and we
+went to Prayers in a perfect downpour of rain. After Church there were
+great searchings of heart among the elders, and I publicly announced
+that I wanted the names of those who wished for Baptism. To the surprise
+of everybody, and to the delight of not a few, four women stood up and
+said almost simultaneously “Inew” (I). These quiet, demure creatures,
+generally so terribly afraid of the men, and always so shy in public,
+must have been influenced by a stronger Power than any they had hitherto
+known to make this public profession, and it produced no small sensation
+on all present. Two men also said they wished to be admitted to the
+Sacred Rite, and I hope they will soon be followed by many more. Charles
+Tariqatu’s influence here is great, and the fruits of his thorough and
+earnest teaching are beginning to be felt. He is so thorough and good
+himself, that his example and influence have all the more effect. There
+will be about twenty to be baptized on Sunday, the nucleus I trust, of a
+good Christian population hereafter.
+
+
+_Thursday, September 23rd._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day.
+Fortunately there was a great festivity here, and I was not left without
+something to do all day. I trust I did not spend quite an unprofitable
+time. I begin to see distinct light through my work here now, and I can
+see how the seed sown through long years is at last beginning to bear
+fruit. I am eminently satisfied with the work of the boys here, and I
+can see that Charles’s influence pervades everything. One man to-day,
+who never has taken much interest in our teaching, came to ask me if
+Martin Ta[¨n]abei might not come back from Norfolk Island, and live with
+him and his people as teacher. Another told me that my words to him of
+former years have quite changed the course of his life, and no doubt he
+is as different as possible to what he formerly was. I was under
+engagement to go to Tahimamavi, but when we were launching the boat the
+rain came down in such torrents that I reluctantly turned back. The
+evening was as bad as the day, and most uncomfortable it was in my
+leaking, cold house. We had Evensong with a good congregation, but a
+great gust of wind put out the principal lamp in the very middle of the
+service, and made it somewhat dismal.
+
+
+_Friday, September 24th._--Fine bright morning and a very hot day.
+Having failed to go to “Tahimamavi” yesterday I resolved to go instead
+this morning. We had a hot, but a most pleasant row up the coast about
+three miles, and found the people awaiting our arrival. They had been
+disappointed that we did not come yesterday, but supposed that the rain
+was the occasion of our failing in our promise. Such a nice number of
+bright boys assembled for school, and a great many grown-up people. The
+boys were divided into two classes, and two of the boys taught them
+their letters. The older men I undertook to teach myself with the help
+of Peter. I made a few remarks at first and then told Peter to say a few
+words. I was quite unprepared for what followed. It is not often I have
+seen such an effect on a native audience, and his flow of natural
+eloquence from beginning to end quite held the men enchained. With a
+great deal of energy, and a vast amount of earnestness, he went into the
+thick of his subject, and left an impression which I feel sure must,
+under God, have a good effect. At the end of his remarks he said very
+modestly, “You may perhaps think it presumptuous in me to stand here in
+your presence and speak like this, you who are old enough to be my
+fathers, and so high in rank all of you as to look upon me as a mere
+nonentity, and indeed I am amazed at my own audacity. But I speak about
+things of so momentous import that I take the chance of your
+displeasure, and submit myself to whatever verdict you may choose to
+return. Were I only concerned about things which belong to our heathen
+state, I should take the place of a humble listener and you should do
+the talking, but here all is different, for out of the abundance of the
+heart the mouth must speak, and that heart and mouth, thank God, are
+mine.” There was not even an assent of approval, all were so impressed
+with the message delivered so eloquently by a mere boy. I said at the
+end, after a long pause, for I did not like to break the spell which
+seemed to hold them all, “Our son has spoken good words to you which I
+hope you will not soon forget.” And they all said, “Who can forget
+them?” I was also much pleased with the way the boys had got on with
+their reading after so few lessons, and altogether I felt that a “great
+door and effectual had been opened here,” for which I was most thankful
+to Almighty God. Now it remains but to put a good teacher there, and I
+think a wide harvest may by God’s blessing be soon gathered in. We came
+back with a fair wind in the afternoon, and in the evening again we had
+torrents of rain. However, we had our full complement at Prayers, and a
+very nice time afterwards.
+
+
+_Saturday, September 25th._--I had intended to-day to have gone to
+Walurigi, but it set in to a wet day, and I was obliged to stay at home.
+However, I had a succession of visitors, and among them some Bushmen
+from a long way inland. The boys told me some odd stories about them,
+how ignorant they formerly were and what strange things they did in
+consequence. When they first came down to the sea they fancied it was
+hungry, because the surf came rolling in, as they said, “mouth wide
+open.” They therefore gave it food to eat. Knowing only the taro root,
+when first getting possession of a yam, they fancied it was firewood and
+put into the fire. Some many years ago they came down here in quest of a
+pig, and while waiting in the gamal their eyes caught sight of a tin
+with the picture of a lobster outside. Thinking this was something very
+wonderful they stole it, and marched off homewards with it instead of
+their pig. Arriving at their village home the chief made a great feast
+for it, and placed it in the midst of the village dancing ground, and
+went through the various ceremonies as if it were a pig in verity. The
+ceremonies over, the chief advanced to the tin, and with his foot,
+squashed up the tin as if he was treading the life of a pig out, with
+the inevitable result that he almost cut his foot off. Now-a-days of
+course they are more enlightened, and the men who were here to-day I
+found very amiable and intelligent. All “salt water” natives despise
+Bushmen, and they have always stories to tell of them. There is somehow
+a natural feud existing between them, but the agression I must say,
+comes generally from the Bushmen. They do, certainly, very unaccountable
+things, but they are always forgiven, and their conduct explained by
+saying, “Oh, they are only Bushmen,” or as they say here “(Taute).” A
+small vessel passed here in the afternoon, and anchored off M. Moussu’s
+place “Ia[¨n]a[¨n]qa.” In the evening there was the greatest excitement, the
+boys returning from fishing saw a boat under sail coming down the coast,
+and the general idea was that it was Mr. Brittain. I was led into the
+swim, and made active preparations for his reception, but he never
+turned up, the sail belonged to some other boat.
+
+Heavy rain and strong wind squalls again in the evening.
+
+
+_Sunday, September 26th._--A day which will ever be memorable to me,
+here at Tavolavola. To-day I Baptized twenty-five people, and it has
+been indeed a day of great spiritual enjoyment to me. Before I was up in
+the very early morning, I heard boys in the school house reading their
+baptismal service over, and all through the day there are some who have
+never had their books out of their hands. The teachers have done their
+part most admirably, and I thank God for such earnest children. We had
+school before breakfast, and a most excellent school too. I went from
+class to class leaving A. P. Huqe to discourse the older men. The boys,
+nothing daunted by my presence, kept their instruction going, which was
+generally very thorough and good. The earnestness of all was quite
+remarkable. After school and breakfast we had Morning Prayers, a nice
+hearty service, and after that we started by boat for “Tahimamavi.” Here
+we found the people awaiting us, and soon we were assembled for school.
+Charles gave the old men a very good and eloquent address, and three
+other classes were provided for. On our way home we stopped for a few
+minutes to learn the news from the schooner at anchor, but they had none
+except that the French troops were still at Port Sandwich, and did not
+intend to move at present, and moreover, that the Mail Steamer had a
+contract to come as far North as that Port. This does not look like
+clearing out of the group, and the Captain told me they had not the
+least intention of moving at present. Before long we shall know the fate
+of these islands, but I sincerely trust they may not fall into the hands
+of the French. In the afternoon I was most pleased to see the teachers
+selecting boys and youths, more especially connected with them by ties
+of kindred, and taking them for a walk and serious talk, as is the
+custom at Norfolk Island. Everyone was so filled with enthusiasm that
+the chief himself sent to say he wished to be Baptized, but inasmuch as
+he has already four or five wives, and contemplates taking more, I could
+not listen to his petition for a moment. To put away his wives would
+lower him in rank at once, and in the choice between God and Mammon, he
+felt the difficulty of putting away any of his women, and I was obliged
+to leave him with his god Mammon.
+
+In the early evening we decorated the Font, and when the building was
+lit up at night with lots of candles, it looked quite nice. The service
+was quite one of the most stirring I have ever taken part in, and the
+ready responses one by one, of men and women, produced a great effect on
+every one present. The women, generally like poor frightened, startled
+creatures, answered out marvellously, with a vigour and earnestness,
+such as no one was prepared for. The ceremony of Baptizing twenty-five
+people took some time, but no one seemed fatigued, so interested were
+they in what was going on. Among the number Baptized were a blind man,
+and a blind woman, but they, like the rest, were wonderfully
+self-possessed. Poor Diu, whom I called Kate, after Miss Lodge, who had
+nursed her so faithfully at Norfolk Island, was perfectly ecstatic in
+her delight, and seemed endued with special strength, having risen from
+a bed of sickness on purpose to be present.
+
+I gave a short address afterwards, and was followed by Charles, who
+spoke well to the subject, and in very good taste considering the number
+of outsiders present.
+
+We finished with the Nunc Dimittis, a fitting conclusion to a most
+beautiful service.
+
+
+_Monday, September 27th._--A most beautiful day, and a whole holiday. I
+told the scholars in the morning that I wished to see only smiling and
+happy faces all day, and to hear of nothing but joy and gladness because
+of the occasion of the holiday, viz., to celebrate the spiritual
+birthday of twenty-five brothers and sisters. Food in large quantities
+was provided, and we managed to secure two pigs for the feast. I think
+it was the brightest and happiest day I have ever known here, and our
+festivities were shared in by a number of neighbours. Contrary to
+strict custom here, the women and girls of the school prepared the food
+under the trees on the beach, the boys chopping the wood and doing the
+heavy work. The scene was a very animated one, and all seemed to be in
+the very best of tempers. In the evening the ovens were opened, and the
+distribution of the food was made. Unfortunately I was not very well
+myself, but that did not interfere very much with the rest. In the cool
+of the evening the boys played a number of their native games, very
+pretty and very picturesque, with a pretty song to each. When darkness
+closed in we had Evensong, and then the happy day was brought to an end.
+
+
+_Tuesday, September 28th._--This morning after our duties here, we
+started for a long voyage to “Vagebeo,” which means something like “down
+West.” “Beo” is the word used there for “down,” while ours here is
+“Hivo.” “Vage” is a particle put before the name of a place with a sense
+of motion towards the place, thus when we are going to Maewo we are here
+going “vage Maewo,” or Araga “vage Raga,” or Marino “vage Marino,” and
+so when we are going to the Beo people we are going “Vage Beo.” We call
+the people of those parts “Meraibeo.” They, on the other hand, term
+these parts “Taulu,” “up East,” and when coming here they say they are
+going “Vageulu,” because our word for “up” here is “Ulu.” We here are to
+them “Natiulu.”
+
+We had a light, fair wind down, and did the journey in good time. We
+hauled up our boat at a place called “Duidui,” where a Mr. Wilber,
+commonly called “Jim” by white traders, and by the natives, “Timi,”
+lives.
+
+He came down to welcome us, and extended his hospitality to me as long
+as I chose to stay. I was not sorry to accept it, and I made his
+residence the basis of my operations. He has been here for many years,
+and is well known and very much liked by the natives. He does a very
+extensive business there in copra (the dried coconut), &c., and deals
+very kindly, liberally, and most honourably with the people. He has very
+nice premises there, and a large establishment. He got us refreshments
+served as soon as we arrived, and after resting for a time he went with
+me to the village of the great man of those parts “A[¨n]ga,” or as the
+Traders call him, “anchor.” I knew him formerly as a very large and
+powerful man, but long sickness has reduced him to a terrible and
+pitiable state of weakness and leanness. He asked me to come and settle
+in those parts and start a school for his people. The natives there are
+very numerous and extremely amiable, and I feel sure a great deal might
+be done if I could see my way to settling there. A fine young fellow,
+his son, was very friendly, and also asked me to come and teach them. I
+said I would see what I could do if they would spare me some boys to go
+to Norfolk Island to be taught. This they said they would do, as they
+were tired of the Labour ships. We got back, and Mr. Wilber indulged us
+in a most sumptuous repast. The boys, my boat’s crew, being tired, we
+had Prayers early, and they retired for the night in very comfortable
+quarters provided for them. We, Mr. Wilber, another white man and
+myself, sat talking till far on into the night, and when I retired it
+was to the ample recesses of a large four poster, with sheets and other
+delights and comforts of civilization. I felt I had turned my host out
+of his bed, but he would insist on my sleeping where he had put me, and
+I acquiesced. The next morning, _Wednesday, 29th September_, it was very
+hot and calm, and I determined not to start till the afternoon. After a
+sumptuous lunch I went to another great man’s village, and received a
+warm welcome. There they told me that they would build me a schoolhouse
+and give me boys, and would sell their land to no one else if I would
+come there and occupy it. Altogether the cry from Macedonia to come over
+and help them was very cheering, and I must try what I can do for them.
+
+At the end of this period of my work, it is pleasant and thankworthy to
+find the Morian’s land stretching out her hands unto God. We started
+soon after I got back for “home,” and had a long, toilsome journey up.
+However, the boat’s crew were very plucky and merry, and didn’t seem
+much to mind as the boat’s head was towards Tavolavola. I myself was
+very seasick in the smooth water, and very soon was in the shivering fit
+of the ague. I made as good a bed as possible in the boat, and lay down
+till I got here. On arrival I found Mr. Brittain and party here, and
+felt sorry for him that I was such a sorry host. I certainly felt
+cheered by his society, and we sat quite late talking about matters of
+mutual interest.
+
+
+_Thursday, September 30th._--After a night of fever and strong
+perspiration I got up this morning feeling fairly refreshed, and a good
+deal better, but weak and not fit for much. Mr. Brittain and his party
+went to Lobaha by boat, but I stayed at home to rest. In the afternoon
+we walked up to M. Moussu’s place, and he showed us with great pride his
+garden and poultry yard, and all the other many things which his
+ingenuity devised, and his cunning hand has fashioned. He gave a
+splendid quantity of green food, which we afterwards enjoyed for
+dinner. Prayers concluded the public part of the day, and Mr. B. and
+myself sat till late talking here in the quiet of a most pacific and
+mild evening.
+
+
+_Friday, October 1st._--Fine day. After our morning duties here were
+over, Mr. Brittain and I went up to Tahimamavi, and stayed some time
+with the kind-hearted people.
+
+Before leaving, Mr. Brittain bought a number of native Opa mats, which
+are much treasured at his station at Araga. The Opa people are great
+hands at mat weaving, and are possessors of a greater quantity and
+variety than any natives I know. Since the introduction of European
+calico the manufacture has somewhat diminished. However, when it comes
+to getting so much tobacco, a great many still turn up, and for the
+labour it must be to make them, the price is perhaps inadequate except
+they get all they ask.
+
+We came home in the very hot sun, and Mr. Brittain sat down to dinner
+alone, I myself being too sick to join him. All the evening I was fit
+for nothing, and lay down all the time. I did not get up for church, and
+only finally left my bed to go back to it again for the night. I felt
+miserably shabby in my position as host to treat my guest so, but I
+could not help it.
+
+
+_Saturday, October 2nd._--Dull threatening morning and squally. Mr.
+Brittain and party decided to go although we tried to detain them. The
+day, however, cleared, and as they did not return we concluded that they
+had stood across for Maewo. I was feeling weak and miserable when the
+kind little Frenchman, M. Moussu, appeared to take me away to have lunch
+with him. I had agreed to partake of his hospitality on this day, but
+had quite forgotten all about it. However, my seediness was excuse
+enough for my forgetfulness, and here he was with his boat to take me
+off. He is a first rate cook, and treated me to such a display of
+luxuries as I have never before seen in these parts. The choicest soup,
+&c., &c., and later on in the feast a most excellent dish of beche de
+mer. This I liked very much, and should fancy it was very nourishing. He
+complained of my want of appetite, and J. was sorry I had not more when
+so many good things were there to be eaten. He brought me back again in
+his boat, and I felt pretty well all the evening. We had Prayers, and
+singing practice afterwards, preparatory to Sunday. The evening was
+fine, and I trust Mr. Brittain and party are well on their homeward way.
+I wished him to stay till Monday, but he was anxious to get back for
+Sunday.
+
+
+_Sunday, October 3rd._--Last night I fancied A. P. Huqe was at the point
+of death. To-day I felt very ill myself, and have been fit for very
+little all day. I managed to get through my Sunday duties here, however,
+and Charles, Mera, and some others went to Tahimamavi, where they had
+the usual school. I feel very comforted at the earnest manner with which
+these good people are stretching out their hands at last unto God. I
+pray that His Spirit may descend upon them in ample measure, that they
+may continue as earnest to the end as they have now begun to be. I
+trust, too, the zeal and perseverance of the boys may keep up, so that
+the teaching may be regularly carried on, and the Word of God become a
+savour of life unto life.
+
+At present they are very earnest and even indefatigable, but I am
+somewhat afraid lest white supervision may have something to do with
+this, and when I am away the present enthusiasm may die down, and things
+be allowed to go on as they were before.
+
+Would to God I had a few more teachers like Charles Tariqatu, a man in
+whom truly the Spirit of God is, the most earnest, humble, patient,
+God-fearing, Gospel-loving youth Opa has ever known. I can only commit
+the matter to God, and He will provide as seemeth Him best.
+
+In the evening I was very sick and could eat no dinner, and went to bed
+with ague. Could not go to Church, and Charles took the service and
+preached.
+
+
+_Monday, October 4th._--Not very well. I had promised, if well enough,
+to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine
+day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very
+ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot
+flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted
+a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and
+comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he
+was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give
+him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him
+good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed
+aguish and shivering.
+
+
+_Tuesday, October 5th._--We had got through our morning duties, and I
+had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting
+for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable
+_Southern Cross_ close at hand. It was not long before she was at
+anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer
+on board from some distance off, and when we got alongside, the first
+question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was
+good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop
+and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was
+Mrs. Selwyn in _proporia persona_, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I
+was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her
+by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most
+glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our
+ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again
+ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were
+going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my
+surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were
+very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous
+at Norfolk Island.
+
+One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on
+board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is
+forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under
+steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about
+8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead,
+and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night.
+In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the
+cool night air ashore.
+
+
+_Wednesday, October 6th._--On board the _Southern Cross_. The tide did
+not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part,
+because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together
+preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn
+went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was
+quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too,
+was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another
+night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However,
+I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of
+sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on
+
+
+_Thursday, October 7th._--Mrs. Selwyn kindly came in with the Bishop to
+see the last of me, and A. P. Huqe and myself sat some time after our
+farewells had been said, deliberating the stupendous undertaking of
+getting to Tanrig. We were both much refreshed by our stay on board, and
+quite ready for our stay on shore again. I shall certainly not want for
+medical comforts and dainties, or even medicines, for the Bishop was
+kindness itself in lading me with one good thing after another, until my
+paraphernalia of travel have increased to the no small consternation of
+my bearers. When the vessel was well away we made our start, and with
+the expenditure of most of our strength, and certainly of all our
+moisture, we got at length to the top of the first hill. Then it was all
+plain sailing, and we got to Ruosi, where we rested and bathed. In that
+refreshing water I seemed to have left all my ailments and distresses,
+and I was quite another being when I started again for Tanrig. Hither we
+arrived in due course, and Huqe, too, seemed quite like another being.
+It is so nice getting back here again, with the cool invigorating air
+and the cheery welcoming faces all so pleasant. I miss Arthur, though,
+very much, and now that Patrick has gone in the ship, the place is
+almost devoid of teachers, ourselves excepted. The first evening ashore
+was fine, and the moon shone out brightly as we were coming from
+Prayers.
+
+
+_Friday, October 8th._--It rained very heavily during the night, and
+this morning and all day it blew very hard, with heavy rain squalls at
+intervals. I did not go out all day, and indeed, I had enough to keep me
+at home. The people were away busy with their gardens, and the women at
+home preparing the food for the men. I had almost interminable visits
+from one and another, during the day, to see the pictures which I had
+taken of the place, and which Dr. Codrington has printed and sent down
+to me. They were quite charmed with them, and were much more clever in
+finding out faces and details, than ever I expected they would be. The
+day drew rapidly to a close, and the evening was fairly pleasant, but
+somewhat cold and damp. We had a fair attendance at evening school, and
+I gave them an address instead of school.
+
+
+_Saturday, October 9th._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. The
+rain poured down, and the village looked as if it were going to be
+flooded. It kept on, too, without intermission almost the whole day, and
+I could not stir out of doors. However, I had plenty of occupation, and
+the time passed rapidly. It cleared slightly towards evening, and it was
+fine overhead for Evensong. Nothing seems to keep these hardy people
+indoors, and most of them have been paddling about all day in their taro
+gardens, utterly regardless of the state of the elements. In spite of
+all inconveniences we had quite a large evening congregation, and few
+seemed the worse in any way for the unpleasant day. It was a cold, raw
+evening, and I am not sorry that bed-time is so near.
+
+
+_Sunday, October 10th._--The day somewhat finer overhead, but still very
+squally and boisterous. As soon as I was up and dressed we had morning
+school, with a large and general attendance. The first two classes are
+supposed to say their Sunday Collect at this school, and answer
+questions on it. The school begins with a Hymn and Prayer, and finishes
+with the Lord’s Prayer and the Grace. The third class learn the Church
+Catechism, and the remainder of the school read from a small manual
+containing the first seven chapters of S. Matthew’s Gospel. The school
+lasts about an hour. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice
+service, and I Baptized the infant son of Thomas and Lily by name and
+special request--Penny. A. P. Huqe, Harry, and Agnes stood sponsors. The
+Font was very tastefully and prettily decorated by Arthur, and the
+service was very solemn.
+
+After Matins I assembled the Catechumens for instruction, and I told
+them that I wished everyone present fully to make up his or her mind to
+the dignity, the solemnity, and responsibility of what they were
+undertaking. They are the last unbaptized inhabitants of Tanrig, and of
+their own accord have pressed for Baptism. They number over twenty, and
+seem very much in earnest, especially the older men and women. It is
+most gratifying to me, and a matter for which I cannot sufficiently
+thank God, that just at the end of this era of my missionary life, I
+should see such zeal and earnestness exhibited by the people among whom
+I have worked so long, and apparently with so little result. I shall
+leave behind me here, please God, an entirely Christian village, in
+profession at least, and I trust in reality also. There are one or two I
+wanted to leave out, but they seem so anxious to be Baptized, that I
+leave their future with God and the blessing of His spirit, and accede
+to their request. We have here now, all the organizations of a Christian
+community, a good school, an excellent Church, and a zealous
+congregation. Surely one can labour on steadfast and unmoveable, seeing
+that one’s labour is not in vain in the Lord. At other stations also,
+people are crying out for Baptism, and before I leave, please God, I
+shall admit many into the Fold of Christ’s Flock.
+
+It was too wet to get about during the afternoon, but we had our usual
+social meal in the school-house, and in due course, Evensong. This was
+one of the heartiest and most inspiriting services I have ever known
+here, and the congregation felt the same, the singing, the responses and
+all, went with a swing and harmony which shewed that the people’s hearts
+were in it. I gave a discourse on the Gospel for the day, the story of
+the widow’s son at Nain, and likened them to the young man, and Christ
+coming and touching the bier and saying stop! to the powers of evil who
+were carrying them, dead in trespasses and sins, out to their burial.
+The young man sat up and began to speak, and our first act, when
+delivered from the wrath to come, should be to sit up and speak and
+declare God’s praises for all He has done for us in His dear Son our
+Saviour. We had singing afterwards, and then dispersed for the night. A
+great many of the congregation lingered outside, to wish me good-night.
+Thank God for these real days, how different to the old heathen times,
+when the people were still lying in the darkness and shadow of death.
+God grant that they may know Him and the power of His resurrection, and
+be filled with His fulness and grace.
+
+
+_Monday, October 11th_, was much finer, and the sun shone out in rich
+splendour. The people at this time of the year are very busy planting
+their yam gardens, and every day they are at work from morning until
+night. The men do the toiling part, the women the cooking. They work in
+parties, and many hands make light work. The harmonium being out of
+order I stayed to try and mend it. I was interrupted in the midst of my
+work by visitors from Tasmouri and Tasmate, and retired to my house to
+talk with them. When they left I finished my job, and was far more
+successful than ever I dared to hope. The bellows had burst, and the
+wind escaped in such quantities that it was hard to get any music at all
+out of the instrument. I could only make a patch up affair of it, but it
+was so far successful that a volume of sound was emitted such as I have
+never heard from it before, and the addition to the singing in the
+evening was very marked. I had intended to have made an excursion during
+the day, but it was too late when I had finished, and I had to content
+myself at home. After Evensong I took the Catechumens for a lesson, and
+afterwards joined my own class in the school previous to the Roll Call.
+The evening was fine, but blustery and raw, and I fancy the people were
+tired, for there was quietness soon after school.
+
+
+_Tuesday, October 12th._--Very rough, squally morning and a terribly
+windy night. Sometimes I fancied I was going to be blown over altogether
+in my frail native hut. However, these little tenements stand a great
+deal, and here I am safe and sound at the beginning of a new day.
+
+After early Morning Prayer we had our usual school, and breakfast
+followed. I have no refreshment before this meal, and sometimes I feel a
+little famished, but am generally ready for the breakfast when it comes.
+It is not a very sumptuous meal at the best of times, plain rice and a
+cup of coffee, but it does very well, and stops the craving of the
+appetite as well as anything else. The strange thing is that at home I
+scarcely ever touch rice, having a positive aversion to it, but here I
+make my breakfast on it nine mornings out of ten.
+
+After breakfast I had school with a very earnest Candidate for Baptism
+who comes from Mandurvat, and wished for special instruction. I hope I
+managed to explain to him any difficulties he has experienced in the
+nature and meaning of the service. When he was dismissed I wended my way
+with some of the boys to Ruosi, where I bathed and washed my clothes. I
+do not know what it was, but when I got home I was quite exhausted, and
+somehow I don’t feel as strong as I did at the beginning of the season.
+We had very hearty Evensong, and a nice class with the Catechumens, who,
+I think, are very much in earnest, especially the older men. There are
+about twenty in this class, the last remnant of the heathen population.
+With their Baptism, Tanrig will cease to have any remains of heathenism,
+and in name at least will be able to call itself Christian. The usual
+school was held, and the first two classes were engaged in solving the
+mysteries of simple addition, one of the girls succeeding in doing a six
+line sum without a fault. This same girl, Emily by name, is rather a
+creditable production for this out of the world place. She reads well,
+answers well, and writes well, besides being quite an adept at figures.
+A couple of years at Norfolk Island would make a very useful woman of
+her. There are seven others in her class who all are very fair scholars,
+and take their turn at teaching.
+
+
+_Wednesday, October 13th._--Very fine morning and very warm. After our
+morning duties were over there was soon a dead silence over the village,
+the people all going off to their several occupations in their gardens.
+I busied myself, and got very hot over a little simple carpentering--but
+oh! the tools, they were so blunt and so rusty. However, I managed to do
+fairly well what I wanted to do, viz. to enlarge the Communion table,
+and generally to give a more Churchy appearance to the East end of our
+Church. I proposed to myself a bathe after my labours were over, but I
+was too exhausted, and stayed at home in preference. However, the shades
+of evening soon stole on, and my little cooks came to get my dinner,
+which, frugal as it was, I enjoyed with the best of sauce--hunger. The
+evening was calm and fine, and I sat outside my house and enjoyed myself
+with a book. In the evening they came to tell me of the death of a poor
+heathen woman who has lately come here, and has been for years past a
+confirmed invalid. Poor thing! the women came back in the evening to
+find her cold and stiff in death, without a soul near her to say a word
+of comfort or to close her eyes in dying. She was buried in the
+moonlight, and her memory consigned to oblivion with her body. Her sad
+story afforded me a fitting text for the Catechumens afterwards, which I
+trust was not unproductive of seasonable lessons and wholesome and
+solemn warnings. Our singing school subsequently was very nice, after
+which everyone seemed glad to turn in for the night.
+
+
+_Thursday, October 14th._--Fine bright morning, and a most beautiful day
+with a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties I was left
+alone, the people being away almost at once to their gardens. They work
+very hard at this season, and the men do the heaviest part of the
+labour. At present they are engaged in fence making, usually here with
+bamboos, and very neatly they make them. It is very hot, fatiguing work
+for them in the broiling sun, but I suppose habit has so far become
+second nature with them, that they don’t seem to notice the heat or mind
+a little extra perspiration. The cool waters of the river always afford
+a grateful and refreshing anticipation when the work is once over.
+
+I amused myself with making a Cross to surmount the Communion table, and
+give a little more of a sacred nature to the Chancel of the Church. With
+my poor tools and limited necessaries at my disposal I flattered myself
+that I had done fairly well, and I afterwards attempted a picture
+gallery on the walls of my house, which has attracted all the boys in
+the village this evening, and they have taken more interest in these
+pictures than ever I have seen them before display. The launching of a
+life boat, and the English Bishops have been the chief attractions, and
+everyone, I think, has counted over the Bishops dozens of times. There
+being no one here in the afternoon I went alone to the river and enjoyed
+a refreshing bath. This evening it is blowing heavily, but there is a
+good moon and it is fine overhead. Instruction to the Catechumens, and
+the evening school finished a nice day.
+
+
+_Friday, October 15th._--After our morning duties here and breakfast I
+started with a party of four for Tasmouri. It had rained a little
+during the night, and the bush was still wet this morning. The sun,
+however, shone out in Tropical brilliancy, and travelling was very
+unpleasant. The hottest time is just after a shower, and to-day proved
+no exception to the native idea on the subject. I don’t know when I have
+felt so hot and disinclined for exertion. However, the journey had to be
+made, and on I went somewhat mechanically. We arrived in due course at a
+rippling brook which the natives call “Na Marou,” and here we refreshed
+ourselves with its cooling waters and quaffed away our thirst. We
+rested, too, awhile, and then shouldering our impedimenta on we trudged
+again. The dense bush afforded a grateful shade generally, but every now
+and then we came out into the open glade, and we felt by experience for
+how much we were indebted to the shelter from the sun’s rays. Our next
+resting place was “Qaruqatu,” and then we were in a very liquid
+condition, and could gladly have lain down and given up further exertion
+for the day, but we were not half-way to our destination yet, and when
+we had cooled a bit we moved on to the village, where we found the “Uta”
+natives awaiting our arrival. They had prepared food for us and procured
+a good supply of coconuts, and we stopped for some time with them.
+However, the day was hastening on to-night, and we were driven to move
+on when we would willingly have sat on in idleness and inactivity. We
+started again for “Vanua garaqa” where the school house is, and there I
+found my friend and teacher “Takele,” whom I was going to Baptize on
+Sunday, and with whom I was anxious to have some previous conversation.
+He is a good man, and a staunch, and “Uta” owes him a great deal for his
+steadfast and consistent upholding of the Truth, and his fearless and
+bold protestations against evil. He had also food and coconuts ready for
+us, and I am afraid I went to sleep for a while, as the boys were
+refreshing the inner man. However, we were not yet at our journey’s end,
+and shouldering our traps, on we went again.
+
+After leaving Uta there is a very steep descent, really down the face of
+the cliff, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward.
+The road, however, is good, if somewhat precipitous, and my poor long
+shins ached again before I got to the bottom. Yet we did get to the
+bottom, and there we found a most lovely natural bathing place, the
+delight and comfort of which we were not long in testing. One can
+imagine how refreshing it must inevitably be to get off one’s dripping
+garments, and get under a cool and delicious shower-bath. I felt much
+more “fit” when I got on my walking garments again and prepared for
+another advance towards Tasmouri, which I must say has never seemed so
+far and the journey towards it so fatiguing. We found Samuel and the
+Tasmouri people waiting from the village, and of course had food and
+drink in readiness for us. It was very cool and nice there, and being
+now near our destination we were not in a great hurry to move. Tasmouri,
+however, was reached towards evening, but oh! how hot the place is! a
+change of raiment scarcely mended matters, and I was soon almost as
+liquid as before. My evening meal made matters worse, and didn’t I long
+for a little grateful coolness? However, that seems an unknown quantity,
+and I gave up the idea of discovering it more here than anywhere else.
+Evensong followed in due course, and afterwards I had the Catechumen
+class for a short instruction. When these duties were over I was fit for
+bed, and this is the reason of the shortness and scantiness of my
+account of this day.
+
+
+_Saturday, October 16th._--At Tasmouri. Most beautiful morning, but oh!
+so hot. Within doors it was absolutely unbearable, and I was glad when
+the people proposed to go to the seaside. The place selected was
+“Ro[¨n]onawo,” and there it was bearably cool. A “Guardian” supplied me
+with companionship, and it proved to be so pleasant there that we spent
+most of the day, the boys bathing, fishing, and generally enjoying life,
+and I reading and seeking new names for the Baptismal Candidates. The
+heat again in the evening when we came home was very oppressive, and so
+great had it been in the house during the day that my candle I found all
+melted and doubled down in the candlestick.
+
+My dinner did not mend matters, but rather made the heat the hotter. I
+could not get cool for the life of me, and I had to grin and bear the
+discomfort. I do not know a much hotter place than Tasmouri and trust I
+never may, the wonder is how people live there at all. The fact I
+suppose is that the natives live very little within doors except at
+night, but during the day are engaged in their gardens, or otherwise
+enjoying the free and easy life to which they are the heirs by nature.
+It was intensely hot at Evensong, and oh! how one sighed for relief! An
+interesting Class with the Catechumens finished a pleasant day, on the
+whole, in spite of the heat. While we were at Evensong, and even while
+praying for her, one of the Christian young women, by name “Nesta,” was
+given a happy issue out of all her afflictions. She has been lying in a
+state ‘twixt life and death for more than two months, and died this
+evening. She was one of the first baptized here, and a nice, clever girl
+she was, and a great favourite. The people asked me to bury her
+to-night, and I consented. About midnight the grave was finished, and I
+went with the people to the graveside. A weird, but picturesque scene it
+was, the moon in full splendour high up in the heavens, the blazing
+native torches casting a lurid glare upon the quiet figure of the dead,
+resting in her final bed and wrapped in native mats, the husband
+seemingly heart-broken, wailing beside the open grave, the women sobbing
+all around, myself with a lantern and vested in a surplice at the head
+of the grave, and the people all subdued and solemn around. I read the
+Burial Service, and when I came to “earth to earth,” “ashes to ashes,”
+“dust to dust,” Samuel threw on the earth according to custom, and at
+the end of the service we sang a funeral hymn, which sounded very solemn
+in the strange stillness of the night. I gave an address to the people,
+and words never seem to me more appropriate, and apposite than on this
+occasion. When I had finished my part of the service I came away, and
+left the grave diggers to their unenviable duty.
+
+
+_Sunday, October 17th._--Most glorious morning and meltingly hot. We had
+school before breakfast, and I took a class of adult women. I was quite
+surprised at their readiness in the Church Catechism, which they said by
+heart from beginning to end. The Collect also they had got by heart and
+read with great facility. With the proficiency of the school generally I
+was amply satisfied, and teaching has evidently not been thrown away on
+the majority of the scholars. After breakfast we had Prayers, and the
+discomfort of the heat was not lessened by the hateful buzz and presence
+of the blue bottles. The service was hearty and comforting, however, and
+I asked the Catechumens to stay afterwards.
+
+With them I had a nice class, and was satisfied that they were in
+earnest. One man who has two wives, and has long held out against
+Baptism, has now given in and put away one of his wives. It is a
+peculiarly hard case, as he has children by both, and the women have
+both lived with him for a great number of years. Both offered to go, and
+gave him his free choice as to the one he chose to retain and which to
+banish. He chose the elder of the two, his first wife, and the other
+consequently left, but I could not help being sorry for them all, and at
+the earnest supplication of the divorced wife I admitted her and her
+young child to Holy Baptism. It was no inconsiderable pang to the
+husband to relinquish his second wife, and I could see that the
+sacrifice both he and she were making had cost them a great deal of
+suffering, but the rule is hard and fast, and I could not go beyond our
+invariable practice to admit a man with one wife only to the Rites of
+our Holy Church.
+
+In the evening I Baptized seventeen people of all sizes, ages, and
+sexes, and Tasmouri now lays claim to the proud title of being the first
+entirely Christian village in Maewo. It has not now a single heathen
+member, and I thank God and take courage from the success which His Word
+has had here through His Grace, and to Him alone be the honour and
+glory.
+
+After the Baptism, and at the end of Evensong, I gave an address, and
+was listened to with marked attention, and I pray God my words may not
+have been spoken in vain. It was indeed to me an occasion of rejoicing
+in the Spirit, and I do not think I shall soon forget the reality and
+heartiness of that service. As I sat here in my house afterwards, all
+the newly Baptized came to bid me good-night, and the woman and child
+who were going into new quarters were not among the last or the least
+grateful for the events of the evening, for their present loss will be
+their eternal gain, and to have Jesus as Friend and Husband must
+compensate any one, with a grain of mustard-seed faith in their hearts,
+for the loss of husband and earthly father. None the less I could not
+help feeling sorry for the pretty, gentle creature who will begin
+henceforth a new and different life--this, of course, humanly speaking.
+I was very tired when the day was over, and everyone seemed glad that
+resting time had come.
+
+
+_Monday, October 18th._--Fine, indeed glorious day, but consequently
+very hot. According to standing custom here, I gave a whole holiday to
+the school and, we went for our usual picnic. The fatted pig was killed,
+and we all proceeded to Ro[¨n]onawo to prepare it for dinner. The women
+did the cooking, the men lending ready and very efficient aid in getting
+and cutting firewood, &c. A book gave me employment throughout the day,
+and there was a good deal to interest one going on. The scene was far
+from being unanimated and devoid of interest, and the day soon hastened
+on to its termination and natural darkness. The ovens were opened in due
+course, and disgorged their plentiful contents. After grace the food was
+distributed, and before long we were wending our way homewards.
+
+After Evensong a request was brought me that the people might have a
+dance, and of course I consented. There was not a very numerous company
+of dancers, but they kept up their energy for an hour or two in a
+manner in which I should be very sorry to imitate them, and the result
+may be imagined in a place where the smallest movement throws you into a
+bath of perspiration. This evening appeared those mysterious things like
+seaworms. They only come about one night in the year, but the people not
+only know the very night of their appearance, but almost the very hour.
+When they are expecting them they get ready a peculiar kind of deep
+basket with a wide mouth, and long cane torches, and when these worms of
+the sea are observed, the people shovel them by handsful into their
+baskets, and great quantities are in this way taken. They are of course
+esteemed a great delicacy, and by cooking and re-cooking, they are kept
+for a very long time as an accompaniment to their different kinds of
+food. Their flavour is somewhat peculiar, but by no means disagreeable,
+and I can quite understand a native esteeming them a delicacy. Their
+wormy nature, I am afraid, gives me a false sentiment against their
+niceness. Considerable numbers were secured this evening, but the “haul”
+was said not to be a very successful one.
+
+
+_Tuesday, October 19th._--This morning we were early astir and getting
+ready for our homeward journey. We had Prayers and school and then
+breakfast, after which we put our traps together and prepared to start.
+The boat was coming for me, so that our first journey was to Tasmate,
+and no joke at that, hot as it was. However, we got there finally, and
+before the boat. It was very warm walking, and I was very liquid again
+by the time Tasmate was reached. While we were there waiting for the
+boat a big steamer passed Southwards. She had not the appearance of a
+man-of-war, but was too large to be down this way for no purpose. She
+was steaming fast and well, but looked to be rather battered and
+dilapidated. She appeared to have come from Fiji or from somewhere in
+that direction. Later on we saw her again up the coast, whither perhaps
+she may have gone for water. Our row homewards was terrible--the heat
+was simply awful and pelted down upon us piteously without a breath of
+wind. However, we got to our boat cove eventually, and hauled up our
+boat, and then, as night was drawing nigh, we prepared to start at once
+for Tanrig. We had scarcely got off before we were caught in a heavy
+thunderstorm, and the rain came down in torrents. The roads, always bad,
+were now fearful, and having a good deal of water before us to wade
+through I had taken off my shoes and socks. My feet were very sore when
+I got to Ruosi, where, in spite of present dripping condition, we all
+bathed, and we got home like drowned rats, to find that very little rain
+had fallen here. After tea and Evensong I was ready for bed, being very
+tired and foot-sore.
+
+
+_Wednesday, October 20th._--I was very glad of a good excuse for a
+thoroughly quiet day, and this was given me in a perfect downpour of
+rain, which continued without cessation until past midday, and I could
+not possibly get out. It cleared, however, in the evening, and I got out
+to church and to my Catechumen class, after which we had our usual
+secular singing. These Wednesday evenings are certainly looked forward
+to, but they do not satisfy me that much is taught by them. The people
+are very slow at picking up new things, and except occasionally are far
+from enthusiastic about the performance, yet I suppose they enjoy it or
+they would not attend in such numbers. I was perfectly inundated
+afterwards by people coming to wish me good-night. Shaking hands has
+become quite an institution here now, and you cannot meet or quit anyone
+except the process of hand grasping be gone through. However, it is a
+good step to the right direction and I give so much encouragement to it
+that my own arm runs the risk often of being wrung off.
+
+
+_Thursday, October 21st._--Busy here all the morning, and having got
+very hot and tired with what I was doing, I came to get my towel to go
+for a bathe, when lo and behold, down came the rain in a perfect
+torrent, and I had to swallow my disappointment and stay at home.
+However, I started again at my picture gallery, and got a good deal
+done. I must try and finish it at some future time. It is a source of
+immense diversion to not a few, and some of the boys are never tired of
+coming to find out what the pictures mean. I was not very well all day,
+and after the Catechumen Class was very glad to retire for the night.
+
+
+_Friday, October 22nd._--Was very sick all the morning, and went to
+Ruosi to try and drown my cares in the river, but was only partially
+successful. Came back appetiteless to an uninviting dinner, and did not
+feel equal to much during the evening.
+
+
+_Saturday, October 23rd._--Very busy all day with preparations for
+to-morrow. Anthony came to make final arrangements about his Candidates.
+Determined to go to “Naruru” for the ceremony. Was not well all day, and
+everything seemed a business. Final class with Catechumens.
+
+
+_Sunday, October 24th._--A very full but an exceptionally joyous day. We
+had school before breakfast, but that meal followed directly after. Then
+came Mattins. Then, followed by all the male population of Tanrig, I
+went to Naruru. The house there being very small I determined to have
+the Baptism out of doors. I would have gone to the river-side but it was
+too far. While Anthony and the others were getting ready the place and
+the Font, I said a few final words to the Candidates, who were already
+well prepared. Anthony’s wife was among the number, and a fine,
+intelligent young woman she is. There were nine Candidates in all, and
+the service was a very solemn and impressive one. It was the first time
+I had ever Baptized anyone in the open air, but a great deal of
+solemnity was not lost by it. The whole service went very nicely, and I
+hope the Candidates were fully alive to the importance and dignity of
+the occasion. When it was over I said a few words to the Congregation
+and Baptized, and soon after we hastened home, having another Baptism at
+Tanrig. During my absence A. P. Huqe had made a most chastely pretty
+Font, and brightened up the Church with flowers, &c., until it looked
+quite charming. The Baptism took place in the evening, and seeing that
+there were as many as twenty-eight Candidates it was not a short
+service. It passed off very nicely, and I think made a great impression.
+I preached afterwards, and told them that this would be my final Baptism
+for some time to come, and urged them all to remember their Baptismal
+vows and to try and live more and more up to them, by the grace of God.
+Tanrig is now a Christian village, and the number Baptized here is
+considerably over a hundred. There are suburbs, however, which are still
+lying in comparative heathen darkness, and these we shall now have time,
+please God, to attack. There is much rejoicing here to-day, and a fresh
+start has again been made. I have Baptized thirty-seven people to-day,
+and I thank God and take courage.
+
+
+_Monday, October 25th._--General holiday, and great Christening Feast at
+Ruosi. All the world turned out from here, and we were joined by many
+from Naruru. Four large pigs were slaughtered, and a prodigious quantity
+of yams and taro prepared. It was a most lovely day, and the sunshine
+overhead seemed to have found its way into every heart, for there was
+the greatest harmony and good will manifest on all sides. Men and women
+shared the burden of the day alike, and the result in the evening was a
+most grand spread of perfectly cooked food, more than sufficient for
+all the great number present. All shared alike, and the females had
+great junks of pork as well as the men. Formerly the women ate very
+little animal food, but now Christianity has broken down the middle wall
+of partition, and taught them that all are One in Christ. We came home
+in the evening, and dinnerless I had to go to bed with an attack of ague
+which lasted me far on into the hours of midnight. I did not go to
+Prayers, and indeed I don’t know what happened. There was a dance, I
+believe, but I didn’t hear anything of it.
+
+
+_Tuesday, October 26th._--Very weak and seedy all day--did not go out
+anywhere. However, I had lots of little things to do here at home, and I
+busied myself over them. Visitors from Uta came in the evening. The
+people told me they wanted to take away one of our women whose husband
+is just dead, but I refused and told them they had women enough already.
+They were very frightened I believe, and I don’t care, I trust they
+were, for I meant what I said. They are quite enough as they are to live
+and die in heathen darkness, while here the poor woman will have a
+chance at all events of hearing and living.
+
+
+_Wednesday, October 27th._--Beautiful day, but I was not particularly
+well to enjoy it. I was up betimes though, and got through our morning
+duties before breakfast.
+
+Perhaps this is not a wise plan, but it is more convenient and therefore
+I submit to it. You certainly get leisure and quiet afterwards, which
+one would fail to secure previously to Prayers and school. I like to
+give the people every opportunity of getting away early to their
+gardens, and therefore, perhaps, I sacrifice myself. Many people could
+not stand this going without breakfast so long, but it is a meal I was
+never very hearty at, and the want of which very strangely I feel the
+least.
+
+Our “Bush” friends brought down some prints for sale this morning, and
+there has been a tremendous competition for them. There were six yards
+of Turkey red handkerchief stuff, which were finally bought by a young
+married lady, “Ann,” for a large pig. The Bushmen still go
+“clothesless,” and returned Labourers find a ready market here for their
+linen goods, which they bring home from Queensland or Fiji. Pigs are of
+much more value to them, for of course they still keep up the old native
+custom of purchasing rank by means of these animals, while here now they
+are only looked upon as so much meat. I have been long trying to get a
+proper hold on these people, but I cannot flatter myself that I have yet
+succeeded very far. They live a long distance off, and the road is very
+inaccessible, but I trust in time they may be reached from hence. They
+are very amiable and very friendly, but they are somewhat terrified at
+anything new. However, they come here very often, and I don’t think they
+go away unprofited.
+
+
+_Thursday, October 28th._--Fine day with strong fresh Trade wind
+blowing. I was busy all day here at home doing little odds and ends of
+things preparatory to my anticipated visit from Mrs. Selwyn. The people
+were all away busy at their gardens, and I was left alone most of the
+day. I could not find time to get to Ruosi, so I went without my
+customary dip in the river.
+
+The people were all back in the evening, and their lively chatter and
+merriment were a pleasing contrast to the ghostly stillness which had
+reigned throughout the day. We had Prayers late because the people were
+late with their dinner.
+
+
+_Friday, October 29th._--Not a very fine day, and threatening for rain.
+Directly after school the people were away to their gardens, but three
+or four boys were working for me here. They felt the slight shock of an
+earthquake, but I did not perceive it. The undivided opinion here is
+that earthquakes are the precursors of rain, and often indeed I have
+known it so to result, but it seems rather an extraordinary law to lay
+down. However, there are abundant signs of a no very distant downpour,
+and the prophets may have a chance of being right in their present
+conjecture. We were very busy all day, but towards evening snatched time
+enough to go to Ruosi for a bathe. The rain kept off well, but there was
+a sprinkle in the evening, and evident signs of a great deal more before
+very long. I have felt the heat here very oppressive for the last few
+days, and by the appearance of the sky we must soon have some dirty
+weather with thunder.
+
+
+_Saturday, October 30th._--The storm came on us with a vengeance this
+morning at daylight, and kept on for a long time. At times the flashes
+and thunder peals seemed simultaneous, and the crashes were peculiarly
+heavy. I have never known a more severe storm in the Tropics, and as for
+the rain it simply poured down in torrents.
+
+I did not get up till late, and Mattins were later than usual. However,
+being a holiday it did not so much matter. In my house it was as dark as
+night, and all day it has been very sombre and dull. Rain has kept on
+continuously all the time, and it has been impossible to move out. The
+people, however, in spite of wet and dirt are up and about, and do not
+seem to mind the weather. Many here, indeed, prefer the rain to the sun
+for making journeys and doing certain works. Rain does not seem to give
+them cold or ague, and I suppose that custom has become second nature.
+
+I could not get out all day except to my duties, and these wet days at
+home are somewhat trying, especially when you are anxious to be about.
+It was somewhat finer in the evening at Prayer time, and we had a good
+congregation, but it did pour down while we were at service, and this
+gave us a good excuse for a long singing practice.
+
+
+_Sunday, October 31st._--Another wet and intensely disagreeable day.
+However, there were spells of fine weather, and during those we
+performed our duties. School came first with a full house, the elder
+classes saying the Collect for the day and the Church Catechism, and
+answering questions on the former, the juniors reading from school books
+and large printed sheets. When school was over I was quite prepared for
+breakfast, and eschewed rice for once in a way for prawns which the boys
+brought me. Sometime after breakfast we had Mattins, a very nice service
+and especially well attended. I experienced much distress of mind from
+the illness of my friend “Virelumlum,” the Opa chief who came over with
+me. He has been very ill all day with acute inflammation of the lungs,
+and we have had to keep hot water applications going, off and on, all
+day. He moans for home, too, and there is no chance of getting him
+there. While at Opa, A. P. Huqe was so ill, and here now I have my other
+visitor a patient on my hands. In the evening I was down myself with
+ague and could not go to Church, and had no dinner.
+
+
+_Monday, November 1st._--Terribly stormy, rough night, and a most
+unpleasant day, the disagreeableness of which was not decreased by the
+continued serious illness of my visitor Virelumlum. All day yesterday
+and again to-day it has been a continual anxiety and care to me, and I
+have been dabbling about in the mud and wet dancing attendance upon him.
+He has quite a serious attack of inflammation of the lungs, and I have
+had to keep hot flannels going almost continuously, and rack my brains
+to find out what to give him to keep up his rapidly decreasing strength.
+In addition to his sickness he has developed a craving for home, and a
+strong impression that he is going to die here, which with natives
+sometimes is actually equivalent to mean that they will not recover, and
+when a native makes up his mind to die, he in most cases does die. There
+is no remote possibility of getting my friend home in such weather as
+we are having, and he is killing himself with worry. If the weather were
+fine I would willingly take him across to Opa in my boat, but that is
+scarcely possible in a gale of wind and a downpour of rain. On the whole
+it has been a most anxious and unpleasant day. Being “All Saints’” Day I
+gave an address in the evening instead of School, and no one, I fancy,
+was sorry to be indoors out of the cold and wet. I had to paddle off
+after every one was quietly within doors to feed my patient and make him
+comfortable for the night.
+
+
+_Tuesday, November 2nd._--A most terrible night, wherein it blew with
+almost hurricane violence in the squalls, with a perfect deluge of rain
+accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning. I was not sorry or
+ungrateful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. My
+first business when I got up, was to trudge off to my patient, whom,
+thank God, I found better, but all day long since I have had to look
+after him, for he is no exception to the idiocy of all natives, who when
+they feel a bit better, rush off and do some extraordinarily foolish
+thing. It was a terrible day throughout, and I was so fortunate in
+keeping my man within doors, that this evening he was visibly on the
+mend, and likely to make a good and I hope a rapid recovery. I read him
+a most strong lecture this morning about his craving for home, and told
+him he could not possibly get there in this weather, and that he was
+better where he was even if he could. I said he never would recover if
+he went on distressing himself about getting home, and told him that he
+was killing me too, by continually crying for what he could not possibly
+obtain. And what a lot of spilt milk I have cried over these last few
+days in my regret at having brought a big man here at all. But the
+inutility of weeping is more apparent to me than his crying for home is
+to him. I can hardly say what I have done to-day either to benefit
+anyone else or myself. This evening I have turned away from my dinner,
+leaving it untasted, and I feel that I must go to bed.
+
+
+_Wednesday, November 3rd._--An attack of ague last night has made me
+feel weak and good for nothing this morning. However, I had to get up,
+and the prospect outside was as dismal as ever. Rain and wind and
+gloominess. My patient, thank God, is most decidedly better, and if he
+takes care of himself will do very well now. I have had a fire in my
+house all day, and with Dr. Codrington’s book on the Melanesian
+languages, have got on very pleasantly. I should like, however, to see a
+little sunshine, and one has a right to expect it now in the height of
+summer. I am dreadfully afraid Mrs. Selwyn’s visit to me will be
+impossible, when the ship arrives the roads will be so impassable.
+Towards evening it cleared a bit and I was able to move out, but
+generally speaking, everyone has been kept close prisoner to-day. The
+people who always seem to me to love paddling about in the wet,
+expressed a strong disinclination to move from their houses, and in the
+absence of other occupation or amusement, have been asleep most of the
+day I fancy. A native’s capacity for sleep is unbounded, and perhaps a
+fortunate thing for him, but he can wake at any time, day or night, and
+get up straight away. We had our usual Evensong and singing class, the
+weather keeping fairer until we had all got indoors again in our several
+houses, when down came the rain. There is a sweet, lulling, comfortable
+sound in rain when you are safe indoors, or perchance in bed, and sleep
+seems to come unwooed. I practice here what I seldom do anywhere else,
+read in bed, and far on in the stillness of the solemn night, I read on
+and on with keen enjoyment and a sense of rest, for one gets tired of
+sitting in a land devoid of easy chairs and sofas. The usual posture of
+a native is to squat on his heels or else to recline, naturally our high
+seats are foreign and uncanny to them. I cannot myself squat for any
+length of time, and at times I sigh for the comfort of a good easy
+chair.
+
+
+_Thursday, November 4th._--Very wet, dispiriting morning, and
+threatening for another stormy day. It cleared off, however, and barring
+showers we have had a fine day.
+
+A most interesting ceremony took place here to-day called “uli meroana,”
+(_i.e._ “untieing war.”) The event ought to have come off long ago, but
+the chief actors in the sad drama which led to its necessity have been
+somewhat dilatory. Sometime since the natives of “uta” (the inland as
+distinguished from the shore) attacked a village in our district and
+killed three people. They were the agressors and the sole actors--the
+people did nothing but pack up their goods and clear out, some flying in
+one direction and some in another. The majority took refuge in this part
+of the island and have never done anything in the way of retaliation,
+but have always gone armed since and been on the alert, not with the
+object of revenging their injuries, but from fear of further attack.
+
+However, thank God, all has been quiet since, and the Uta people have
+the fire coals so heavily heaped on their head, that being first in
+agression they have been the first to make amends. They came down
+yesterday in great numbers, all armed, of course, and bringing three
+pigs with them. Our people were all present too, very fully armed, and
+also bringing three pigs. The chief man on the Uta side and the attacker
+stood out in the open with his pig, and the chief among the injured
+stepped out, and walking around the pig took it from the other, first
+passing his hand over the pig’s back and head and the rope he was held
+with, and then delivering the scape pig to the injured. This was done
+thrice, _i.e._ with each several pig. Then the ceremony was changed to
+our side and the like performance gone through, and the pigs delivered
+one by one to the attackers. There was thus a mutual exchange and no one
+was the loser, indeed so far from it that had the pigs been made for the
+occasion and cast in the same mould, they could scarcely have been more
+of a size, shape, and colour. It would seem, according to our ideas, as
+if the aggressors ought to have paid all the pigs without receiving any
+in exchange, but no, native custom seems to be different, and a fair
+exchange must be made. After the pigs had been delivered, there was some
+speechifying and a good deal of after talkey-talkey, and the quondam
+enemies became the best of friends. I hope they will continue so, I am
+sure, and I think they will. I made a little speech, in which I
+glorified peace and good-will, and denounced fighting and bloodshed. I
+have never seen such a concourse of people in Maewo, certainly, and the
+place perfectly bristled with guns and poisoned arrows. The natives,
+although they seem somewhat careless with these weapons, are really very
+careful, and an accident seldom or never happens through carelessness. I
+do not like the poisoned arrows, and keep clear always of them, for the
+smallest prod from one would most probably prove fatal. Very soon the
+vast concourse had dispersed, and the pigs, the mediators, were escorted
+off to their new places of residence, but I do not fancy they felt the
+weight of the aggressor’s repentance, or the forgiveness of the
+attacked. A small coal of inward anger would very soon kindle again the
+blaze of war, for after all I fancy there is not much love lost between
+the two parties. With one of my Opa boys I came back here to get my
+towels, and then made a start for Ruosi and Kerepei, being anxious to
+bathe, and also to see the road the boys have made for Mrs. Selwyn’s
+feet to tread in. I must say after my observation of it, that if her
+anticipated visits everywhere have the same effect of causing people to
+mend their ways, she may well be satisfied with her trip down here. The
+road was not good before, neither is it perfect now, but the boys have
+certainly made a most passable track, the question is whether a lady
+can manage the first steep climb. In anticipation of this, they have
+strained a strong climbing reed, like the rail of a balustrade, and by
+this it is hoped she may be able to ascend. The road otherwise is now
+very good. A delicious bath at Ruosi was made doubly delicious by some
+days’ privation, and my present liquid condition.
+
+We got home here in the evening, and I dined very late, but with much
+more of an appetite than I have had for some time. In the evening A. P.
+Huqe being laid up, I gave an address at Evensong, instead of school.
+
+
+_Friday, November 5th._--The glorious 5th November, Guy Fawkes, of
+unhappy memory! Very wet night, but fairly fine day. People very busy
+to-day, so they asked me to relinquish school, which I did. I made
+preparations for photographing a pretty part of the river, but the rain
+came down and I had to give it up. However, my dry plates are at an end,
+and the few I have left I must keep for a peradventure of something good
+before I leave.
+
+
+_Saturday, November 6th._--Squally, unsettled sort of day, after a very
+rough night. Great preparations were being made here in the morning, for
+the Bishop’s and Mrs. Selwyn’s advent. When it was done I went with the
+boys to Ruosi, where I sat and watched their sports and gambols in the
+water, and thought how the one touch of nature makes the whole world
+kin. Human nature and boy nature is the same everywhere, and these boys
+are just like every other boy except in colour. They had a great spur of
+fun and frolic, and boy-like pleasure produced no languor or
+tediousness. I made a descent to “Wosawosa,” and looked in vain for the
+ship.
+
+Back and dined, and everything as usual.
+
+
+_Sunday, November 7th._--The Mission schooner arrived with all on board
+well. After Morning Prayer I went down to the vessel, but it was too
+dirty for Mrs. Selwyn to come up to the village, but in the evening Mr.
+Cullwick came back to Tanrig and spent the night with me. The account of
+the work in the islands farther North, was very cheering, and it had a
+fresh and charming meaning, as told by Mrs. Selwyn in the full
+enthusiasm of her first voyage into these new but beautiful regions. The
+evening services in our little native Church was a sad and solemn one,
+for I said my public farewell to the people, in prospect of my leaving
+them for a long time, inasmuch as it was decided for me to go to
+England. Mr. Cullwick was very much struck with the beauty of the
+service, and the devotion of the worshippers. When we bid them “Good
+night” they all said, “Ah! this will be the last good night for a long,
+long time.”
+
+
+_Monday, November 8th._--The Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn came to stay with me
+at Tanrig. It was fortunately a most beautiful day, and Mrs. Selwyn,
+partly carried and partly on foot, made the journey without any great
+fatigue. Of her visit, she herself no doubt will write.
+
+
+_Tuesday, November 9th._--We stood across to Opa, distant about
+twenty-five miles from this part of Maewo. The people were in floods of
+tears at the final parting, and a general wail went up from all, as the
+boat drew off from the shore. At Opa we anchored for the night.
+
+
+_Wednesday, November 10th._--The Bishop and I were rowed ashore early,
+and examined the school at Lotahimamavi. This is as yet in embryo, but
+the people were very nice and most friendly, and seemed quite in earnest
+about their school duties. A proper school house has yet to be built,
+but this they have undertaken to do as soon as they have dug their yams.
+Their yam digging answers to our harvest. Leaving this place we went on
+board the _Southern Cross_ to breakfast, and afterwards to examine the
+school at Tavolavola. The Bishop was much pleased with the state of this
+school, and the great proficiency attained to by some of the young
+scholars. Prizes of knives, calico, beads, fish-hooks, &c., were
+distributed and then we went to Lobaha, another school. Before leaving
+Tavolavola, Mrs. Selwyn was anxious to see how the natives got up the
+coconut trees. There are no branches of course, to hold on to, and many
+natives tie a cord around their feet, and some use an ingenious
+arrangement with cord for their hands. But these natives go up hand over
+hand without any help or assistance. The lad in question was up the
+tree, had thrown down green coconuts, and descended again with wonderful
+and astonishing rapidity, with nothing on his hands or feet.
+
+Before we got to Lobaha it began to rain heavily, and I was overtaken
+with a fit of ague, and had to lie shivering on the beach while the
+Bishop went alone to examine the school. It poured in torrents all the
+way home, and I was very miserable.
+
+
+_Thursday, November 11th._--Away early from Opa and started for Araga,
+distant over twenty miles from this part of Opa. There the school was
+examined, and we left in the evening for the South end of the island.
+This we reached on
+
+
+_Friday, November 12th_, the Bishop going ashore in a strong gale of
+wind, and in pelting rain, to examine the school and bring off Mr.
+Brittain, who had been spending some days there. They were not long
+before both were on board, and Mr. Brittain, thank God, quite well.
+
+When the boat was hauled up we stood out to sea, and so on our homeward
+journey for Norfolk Island, which we reached after a stormy but quick
+passage on November 18th, and found all well at home. “Praise thou the
+Lord Oh! my soul, and forget not all His benefits.”
+
+
+
+
+                           REV. A. BRITTAIN.
+
+
+For the year 1886 my contribution will be concerned with the time
+between April 3rd and November 18th. On the former date the _Southern
+Cross_ left Norfolk Island on the first trip of the year, and on the
+latter we reached it again at the end of our voyaging season. I had
+never before left for the islands on the first voyage, but our plans
+gave me a longer stay than usual. My own island, Araga, was to take up
+the usual time, but I was to make a stay also in the Bank’s Islands,
+which would be out of the ordinary course. As it turned out, however,
+the arrangements were of necessity altered, and no stay was made in the
+Bank’s Islands.
+
+The _Southern Cross_ left Norfolk Island with a wind very strong, but
+altogether fair. None of the regular Araga boys were on board, as they
+were to return home on the second voyage, according to our plan. One
+lad, however, we had with us, whose presence in the _Southern Cross_ was
+quite out of the ordinary course. The explanation concerning him will
+show something of the individual efforts made in various places to give
+some sort of instruction to those who are taken from our islands to work
+on the plantations and elsewhere. On the whole they are simply
+neglected, with the result that they return home having learnt almost
+all the vices, and none whatever of the virtues, of the white man.
+Personal interest has in some cases induced thought and work for their
+benefit. In Sydney was one instance of this. The visit of a young lady
+to Norfolk Island on the occasion of the Consecration of the Memorial
+Chapel increased her interest in the Mission, and on her return to
+Sydney she sought some kindred work. A class was established for natives
+from the islands engaged in different kinds of work in the city, and it
+has proved most successful. Several of the lads are from our own
+islands, and as it has happened that the Bishop has been in Sydney at
+convenient times, he has twice held Baptisms of members of the Class.
+One of these Baptized lads made a request that he might be taken home
+in the _Southern Cross_. His home was Araga, and he came to Norfolk
+Island in readiness for the first voyage of the _Southern Cross_. It was
+apparently five or six years since he had been taken away in a labour
+vessel to Noumea, whence he had found it possible to make a move to
+Sydney. And this was the end of his life in foreign countries--he was
+returning home a Christian, with, in some respects, a surprising
+knowledge, with a perfectly good character from all who knew him, and
+with a great desire to do something for the benefit of his
+fellow-countrymen. All that had hitherto been done in Araga is in the
+northern part of the island, the remainder of the island being partially
+known only, while the extreme southern end was quite unknown and
+inaccessible. The lad, Thomas Rorsal, gave us to understand that his
+village was right in the south, close to the neighbouring island of
+Ambrym, and we had then the prospect of breaking into new parts.
+
+On April 8th, that is on the fifth day from Norfolk Island, we were in
+the passage between Araga and Ambrym. A boat was lowered, Tom’s
+belongings placed in it, and we pulled in shore to find his village,
+which he could not distinguish from the vessel. A clump of cocoa-nuts
+was recognised by him, and at last we pulled into a good sandy beach
+with very good landing, where a crowd had already collected for our
+reception. Their returning brother was at once recognised, and his goods
+shouldered with great readiness. The Bishop’s bad foot forbade his
+leaving the boat, but I landed and went up with the people to their
+village, which was quite close at hand, though invisible from the beach
+owing to the very thick bush. Tom had previously expressed his
+determination to build a house for school purposes as soon as possible,
+and I, through him, told the people of our plans and something of what
+we hoped to do among them. We thereupon, in consequence of the readiness
+they expressed, chose a convenient site for the house, and I promised to
+make a boat voyage to them as soon as I could conveniently get away from
+the northern district. It was evident that there could not be a great
+population in the immediate neighbourhood, as there was only a small
+level tract lying off the beach, backed up by somewhat high hills, which
+would doubtless form a separate district from the beach villages.
+
+On the next day, the 9th, we arrived at the north end of the island,
+having been almost becalmed on the way thither. The _Southern Cross_
+anchored, my belongings were put together, and in two or three hours I
+landed at the usual place, and was at home again at Qatvenua. It was not
+a bright reception--the unusual quietness all about, the absence of the
+usual vociferous greetings, and the depressed looks of the teachers were
+not enlivening, and it was easily seen that there were unpleasant
+tidings to be heard. Gradually all became known. With regard to the
+chief school at Qatvenua the report was altogether favourable. It had
+decidedly advanced. Several outside adults, who had hitherto kept aloof
+from us, had come forward and joined themselves to our congregation, and
+the ordinary work had proceeded quite satisfactorily. But the other two
+schools in the district had met with interruptions, and one was in a
+state of temporary suspense. The cause of all was the fruitful source of
+trouble to us, the labour vessel. Some short time before one had visited
+that part, and a party of men and lads, almost entirely baptized or
+scholars, had departed in her. It was all to be put down to one man who
+had been of some importance. He had done wrong, and to avoid the
+retribution that in some form or other would have fallen upon him, he
+decided to leave the place, and then persuaded some of these men to
+accompany him, and the rest followed them. Amongst them was the teacher
+who had been in charge of the school at Lamoru, whose going was a great
+surprise, as he had always been so quiet and well-conducted. Fortunately
+his helpers were able to continue the school work by themselves without
+any intermittence. At the other place, Vathuqe, the school was closed
+for a time, as there was no one to take the erring teacher’s place. He
+had been left there with some misgivings, as he was not of equal
+standing with the teachers generally, but it was thought that his zeal
+and expressed desire for the post would be equal to the demand made upon
+his steadfastness. Some of the others that embarked were his relatives,
+and so he had the unusual temptation before him, and gave way to it.
+
+My first fortnight on shore was spent at Qatvenua. The landing was done
+in very unfavourable weather. It rained very heavily, and the very steep
+path leading up to the school village, bad enough in fine weather, was
+extremely troublesome for carrying up my goods and chattels, and they
+got very wet. My own little house was not in good condition, and until
+we repaired it I slept in the large boys’ house.
+
+Within a day or two we pulled some little distance down the coast to a
+small bay, where I heard some white man had been recently buried. We saw
+his grave, with an inscription, and in time I heard the story of his
+death. No outrage on labour vessels has been made or attempted in Araga
+for several years, but in January, as it appeared, when a vessel from
+Samoa was visiting some place about thirty miles down the coast, one man
+was shot by a native as he was on shore with several others from the
+vessel bathing. It must be said that this man, a German, showed a great
+lack of wisdom in his behaviour. The native had come down some distance
+from the hills under the impression that his two wives, who had
+disappeared, were on board the vessel then to be seen lying at anchor,
+and in his rage the man was shot, while all the time the women were
+elsewhere. The body was brought up along the coast, and buried near our
+station. The whole affair had caused much excitement, even at the
+Northern end of the island. Some time after the place was visited by a
+German man-of-war, with results that will be spoken of further on.
+
+The great man to the South, Viradoro, expressed his continued desire for
+us to do something in his part, and we visited him several times, and
+were well received and listened to always. There is a lad at Norfolk
+Island who has connections with this place, and when they make a
+beginning at a school-house we may begin work with him as teacher, but I
+decline to put him there, as they desire, before this is done. Within a
+fortnight of my going ashore two labour vessels anchored near us, one
+from New Caledonia, and the other from Fiji. In the latter there
+departed a young son, quite a small boy, of Viradoro’s, whom I had hoped
+to take to Norfolk Island some time or other. His father was greatly put
+out by his being taken away.
+
+I had decided to remain at Qatvenua until Good Friday, and then to go on
+to Tanrig in Maewo for Easter. There are several communicants there, and
+I should have taken the Araga communicants with me that we might have
+our Easter Communion together. During the whole of Holy Week the weather
+was bad, and I feared that our voyage would not be practicable. On the
+Saturday, when we should have left, there was a strong wind blowing from
+the North, which would have been dead against us, with continuous rain,
+and there was no possibility of our going. Our Easter, however, was very
+pleasant, and the joyful hymns told of really joyful Christian hearts.
+
+In Easter week we left for my first visit to Wonor, the village at the
+Southern end where we had put Rorsal ashore. My intention and
+arrangements for going there caused much talk. The distance would be
+nearly forty miles, and I suppose no one had been more than half that
+distance down the coast, and it was thought to be a very long journey.
+More talked of even than the distance, however, was the belief that
+attaches itself to a particular place at the extreme Southern end. To
+this place were supposed to go all the spirits of the departed, and to
+remain there in some sort of community. Of all places in Araga,
+therefore, it is the one of the greatest superstitious interest and
+fear, and many of my chosen boat’s crew’s relatives did their best to
+dissuade them from accompanying me, but without effect. We started on
+the appointed day, and as I knew we could not do the whole distance in
+one day, as we went along the coast we made several calls at the
+villages as they appeared, and fixed upon one not quite half-way, known
+to some of the men, in which to pass the night. Our various stoppages,
+however, so delayed us, that it became clear that we should not reach
+our destination before night, and so when, upon rounding a point, we
+came upon a labour vessel quietly at anchor, and were hospitably invited
+on board for the night, I thought it wise to take advantage of it. It
+was a Fijian vessel with a number of men on board, lately recruited, and
+a Government agent whom I had met before. We passed the night quietly at
+least, though not comfortably for any of us, and pulled away in the
+morning, very grateful for the hospitality shown to us, and resumed our
+journey. The evening found us ashore at Wonor, where there was
+considerable excitement over our landing. Although the place is quite
+open to the prevailing Trade wind, a reef and a sand bank that lie off
+the shore shelter it quite effectually, and make the landing on the
+shelving beach easy and pleasant. In the fortnight that had elapsed
+since our calling here only a little had been done towards building the
+school-house. The site was cleared of all its timber, and some of the
+posts were ready. During our stay we had therefore to sleep in the men’s
+common house, which, being much smaller than is usual in the northern
+part of the island, we found rather inconvenient. On the whole our visit
+of a week was a great success, and it excited much interest. The house
+was proceeded with with great vigour, and all the people in the district
+showed a very friendly spirit, making things look bright and promising
+for the future. Thomas was doing all he could in the way of teaching,
+and his Scripture Picture Books were all well thumbed. I confined my
+doings to the immediate neighbourhood, and saw but little of the
+adjacent country, though the report of our sojourn caused people to come
+from a great distance to Wonor, and they were very desirous of being
+visited. My boat’s crew were thoroughly well treated, and feasted to a
+great extent, and our entertainers did us the honour of dancing to us
+one evening. I had not intended to make a long stay this time, and
+having made some arrangements in the North, which required my presence,
+we left at the appointed time, in spite of the pressing invitation for a
+longer stay. Our return journey was accomplished with a little
+difficulty. The ordinary winds would have taken us back pleasantly in a
+day, but we fell in with a contrary wind halfway up the coast, and were
+delayed. Some time after night-fall we decided to land at a village then
+quite close, but the tide being out the reef was uncovered, and not
+wishing to have the boat injured we continued on our way, and at last
+reached our own beach, after very hard pulling, two or three hours
+before the dawn of the new day. It was not surprising that some of the
+lads should be knocked up for a time after this, but it was thought to
+be quite in accordance with the character of the place visited, that
+they were all, one after the other, laid up for varying periods. It did
+really seem peculiar that it should so happen at this particular time,
+when so much was being said about the superstition connected with the
+southern part.
+
+After this there was a month’s stay at the two Northern schools. At
+Lamoru a new house was built, larger and in better style than the old
+one which had seen the beginning of the work, and new arrangements were
+made concerning the teaching staff. At Qatvenua also repairs were made
+to the various buildings, and a boat-house, sufficient for the purpose,
+but not of any great size or beauty, was erected on the beach. The whole
+of this time was more or less wet, and there was much sickness all
+through the district. The infants suffered most, and very many died,
+several being children of our congregations. A girl also died, one of
+the two belonging to this place who had been to Norfolk Island. She had
+been declining for about a year, and my attempts to improve her health
+failed. Her lengthened sickness tried the patience of her friends
+greatly, and it was suggested once or twice by relatives that her end
+should be hastened. By these who made this suggestion it was of course
+believed that the illness was due to some unfriendly person’s charms,
+who would be rejoicing at seeing her suffering. One of our Catechumens
+lost his only child, a very engaging little boy, and his account of how
+he prayed that it might recover, and how he felt when death came, and
+his prayer seemed to be in vain, was very touching. This child he had
+been in the habit of bringing frequently for me to see, and when I once
+gave him some beads for it, he was delighted. These, he told me
+afterwards, he had buried with him.
+
+On June 5 the _Southern Cross_ returned to me again from the Northern
+islands, and I went on board to be put on shore at Wonor. It was my
+intention to go there to stay until the vessel’s return again from the
+South, which would be in about six weeks’ time. Two boys were to
+accompany me for the stay, and I took my boat. We could not land until
+the next day, after spending an unpleasant night on board. On pulling
+in, the school-house appeared well on to completion, showing that they
+had been working well at it since my last visit. It was not possible yet
+to sleep in it, so I spread my rug again in the men’s house, but we
+assembled the people together in the school-house for such instruction
+and talking as were found possible. A large party of Ambrym men was
+weather-bound here. Their home was plainly visible, about seven or eight
+miles distant, but across a very disturbed passage. They had already
+been here ten days, and were anxious to return. They had a sorrowful
+tale to tell. A short time before they had come over from Ambrym to go
+on an ordinary bartering expedition along our coast, and when the German
+man-of-war, the Albatross, mentioned above, arrived to avenge the death
+of the man who was killed in the beginning of the year, they happened to
+be at the very place. Naturally they thought themselves quite safe from
+any attack, and sat quietly on the beach awaiting the arrival of the
+boat. They all knew that the culprit was in a village two or three miles
+away on the hills, and they were prepared to assist in punishing him.
+Suddenly however, without any warning, they were fired upon more than
+once from some of the big guns of the ship. They at once fled in great
+fear, and did not know until the evening, when they ventured out of the
+bush again, what had been the result of the firing. One poor fellow had
+part of one leg blown away, and was found lying in great agony. A day or
+two after he died. Having thus fired and cleared the place of all
+people, a large number of men went ashore from the man-of-war, and
+succeeded in killing a few pigs, and in burning down the large men’s
+house of the place, which belonged to perfectly innocent and unconcerned
+people. Such a proceeding is not calculated to induce in the people any
+thoughts either of the justice or of the courage of the white man. It
+was a very weary time for them while waiting at Wonor, before reaching
+home to tell of their missing brother, and it was not pleasant for the
+people of Wonor, as the vessel had picked up two lads of the place as
+guides, and they were on board when the firing occurred.
+
+Instead of spending six weeks at this place we spent only ten days. They
+were busy days, as we all worked at the house, and as I could not get
+about very much to the neighbouring villages, I had to content myself
+with talking to the people as they came about us. It soon became evident
+that my two boys from the North were very home-sick. One I discovered
+sitting in the dark one evening crying, and although they said nothing I
+could see what they wished. I therefore decided to return with them, and
+after some little difficulty got a crew together. We started on a not
+very promising morning, but did not go far before the hearts of the
+Wonor men failed them entirely. There was a good breeze blowing, and
+some sea on, and the prospect of a long journey before them, and they
+formally requested to be allowed to return. It would have been very
+awkward to get back in the boat, as both wind and sea were dead against
+us, so I decided to put them ashore at a convenient spot, and continued
+the journey with the two boys. We had a fair wind, but rain commenced
+and continued at intervals all through the day. At last we reached our
+destination as evening came on, and never was home more welcome. Our
+wonderful journey, as it was thought, with only three in the boat,
+caused much talk. Had the wind failed us we should have been in a great
+difficulty, but as it was we did the forty miles without much labour. I
+hoped to be able to get a crew together, and to go South again to
+complete my stay, but we were over-ruled. Three or four days after
+reaching Qatvenua the place was greatly disturbed on hearing that a
+large canoe, which had left Maewo with Araga people in it more than a
+week before, had not been seen or heard of. They were either drowned or
+had been blown over to Opa. After a day or two more of suspense I
+decided to go to Opa to enquire. It was a relief to everybody when we
+started, and the people at home rejoiced greatly when they saw our
+signal fires in the evening to let them know that we had found the
+missing ones. It was so--they had been blown away from Araga, and could
+do nothing but steer for Opa. We remained there one night, and a Trader
+who lives there kindly gave the hospitality, and next day we started on
+our return with some of the canoe crew. A night had to be spent on the
+way at Maewo, but early the next morning we reached home. This was on
+Friday, and on the evening of the next day I commenced to be unwell,
+and continued so for three weeks. All plans came to nought, as I found
+it impossible to get rid of the ague and consequent fever, and only now
+and then could I manage to rise at all. The arrival of the _Southern
+Cross_ on July 17 was therefore very welcome, and I went on board at
+once. All plans as regards the Bank’s Islands had to be given up, and
+instead of my staying for a time in Mr. Palmer’s district at Mota and
+Motalav, as I had anticipated with great pleasure, I was forced to see
+the wisdom of remaining on board for the voyage up to the Solomon
+Islands. Much of great interest occurred during the voyage, but the
+greatest event was a visit we paid to Nukapu, where the Memorial cross
+for Bishop Patteson had been erected two years previously. It was found
+to be well cared for, the people were more than friendly, were most
+hospitable, and there are bright hopes of something being done ere long
+in the place where the Martyr’s death occurred.
+
+I improved so much during the trip that on our arrival in the New
+Hebrides again, I decided to continue my stay in Araga. I was on shore
+therefore again from September 14 to November 12, and all the places
+were visited, and I was no more hindered by bad health. Wonor advanced
+most satisfactorily: my later visit found the house completed and quite
+fit to sleep in, and I saw much of the surrounding districts and people.
+At Lamoru we had the only adult Baptism of the year--five men were
+Baptized after much preparation and a long time of trial. November 18
+found us again off Norfolk Island, and the Island Voyages were a thing
+of the past for 1886.
+
+
+NETHERTON AND WORTH, PRINTERS, TRURO.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New
+Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides,

-S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain

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-Title: Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean

-

-Author: C. Bice

-        A. Brittain

-

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-<hr class="full" />

-

-<p class="c">

-<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="266" height="500" alt="" title="" />

-</p>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii">{iii}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>

-

-<h1><big>JOURNAL</big><br /><small>

-OF RESIDENCE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES,<br />

-S.W. PACIFIC OCEAN.</small></h1>

-

-<p>&nbsp;</p>

-<p class="c">WRITTEN DURING THE YEAR 1886,<br />

-<small>BY</small><br /><span class="spc"><big>

-<span class="smcap">Revds.</span> C. BICE <small>AND</small> A. BRITTAIN.</big></span>

-<br /><br /><br />

-TRURO:<br />

-NETHERTON AND WORTH, LEMON STREET.<br />

-1887.</p>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v">{v}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>

-

-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv">{iv}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>

-

-<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2>

-

-<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span> have been induced to publish the following Journals at the request of

-some friends who have perused them, and think they will prove

-interesting to others. The Journal of the Rev. A. Brittain arrived too

-late for insertion in the ‘Island Voyage’ for this year, and I have been

-requested by the Rev. William Selwyn, the Secretary of the Melanesian

-Mission, to print it with my own. I do this with the greater pleasure,

-because his report will not only supply me with a good excuse for

-rushing into print, but will furnish others with a more full and

-complete account of the work of the Melanesian Mission in the New

-Hebrides.</p>

-

-<p>The three islands herein spoken of are the Northernmost of the

-above-mentioned group&mdash;the New Hebrides&mdash;and form the Southern boundary

-of the Melanesian Mission work in the islands of the South-west Pacific

-Ocean.</p>

-

-<p>Araga (or Pentecost) and Maewo (or Aurora) are long and mountainous

-islands running almost North and South, about forty miles each in

-length, and separated by a narrow channel three miles wide. Opa (or

-Leper’s Island) runs at right angles to these, a broad, massive, grand

-looking country, resembling in appearance a huge whale, the hump of

-which rises to a height of over 4000 feet.</p>

-

-<p>Araga and Opa are thickly populated, but Maewo has a scattered and

-sparse population. Opa is about sixteen miles from Araga, but a channel

-of only five miles in width separates it from Maewo.</p>

-

-<p>The languages and dispositions of these neighbouring lands are much more

-varied and dissimilar than would naturally be inferred from their close

-propinquity. And the majority of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi">{vi}</a></span> people, too, seem to prefer an

-inland situation, all which serve to make the work of the Missionary the

-more arduous and difficult. On these islands every outward prospect is

-pleasing, and the inhabitants themselves not so far gone in vileness as

-to be incapable of improvement, as I hope the following pages will show.

-The work of the Melanesian Mission has been established in these islands

-a good many years now, with more or less success, and schools are in

-active operation as follows:&mdash;</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc">At <span class="smcap">Araga</span>&mdash;Wonor, on the Southern face of the island, and Lamoru and

-Qatvenua on the North.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc">At <span class="smcap">Maewo</span>&mdash;Tanrig, Tasmouri, Tasmate, Mandurvat, Naruru, and Uta. All

-these stations are on the North of the island.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc">At <span class="smcap">Opa</span>&mdash;Tavolavola, Lobaha, Walurigi, the most flourishing of which is

-that first mentioned.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc">With these few preliminary remarks and explanations I leave the

-following simple pages to tell their own story.</p>

-

-<p class="r">

-CHARLES BICE.<br />

-</p>

-

-<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">N.B.&mdash;The vowels in the Melanesian languages are pronounced as in

-Italian: a = <i>ah</i>, e = <i>a</i>, i = <i>e</i>.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc">The letter written n̈ = <i>ng</i> in <i>singer</i>; d = <i>nd</i>, b = <i>mb</i>.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">{1}</a></span></p>

-

-<h2><a name="JOURNAL" id="JOURNAL"></a>J O U R N A L.</h2>

-

-<hr />

-

-<p class="c"><i>1886.</i></p>

-

-<p><i>Friday, 9th July.</i>&mdash;The weather seaward looked very threatening as we

-stood on the Pier at the Settlement in readiness to embark. All the

-Melanesians, boys and girls, to the number of about 50 had already gone

-off to the ship which lay tossing and tumbling at her anchorage as if

-anxious to be let free. A considerable number of Norfolk Island friends

-were on the Pier, in addition to most of the Members of the Mission, to

-bid us Farewell and wish us <span class="smcap">God</span> speed. Many thoughtful little mementos,

-too, found their way into our hands from our warm-hearted and well

-wishing friends. The process of shaking hands took some time in

-execution, but one could not but feel the absence of many who were

-unavoidably absent on the occasion. My own little ones were the last to

-bid me good-bye, and poor little Walter (my youngest son) was very

-tearful. Shortly after, we were all in the boat, and “let go” was called

-out. The landing was very smooth, and we got out with very little

-difficulty. Besides the Captain, Mr. Turnbull and myself were the only

-passengers. It was close upon 5 o’clock p.m. when we got on board, and

-some of the passengers had already begun to feel the motion of the

-ocean. After things were put into some order and the shore boat

-dismissed with Captain Bates and the Norfolk Island crew, the command to

-“heave away” was given, and then I saw for the first time the steam

-winch at work. Before many minutes the anchor was in its place in the

-bows of the ship, and the long process of raising the anchor in old

-days, performed by manual labour, reduced to a minimum. We slipped<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2">{2}</a></span>

-quietly down the leeside of the island, and had ample time to get into

-some amount of order and readiness for a very dirty, rough night.

-Opposite the Mission, the boys ashore had lit a large bonfire, and we

-could hear their shouts, borne seaward by the raging gale. As night

-closed in the sky became very dark and lowering, and we knew full well

-what we were to expect. We had dinner while still under the lee of the

-island, but before the meal was finished, we were knocking about in the

-heavy head gale. Of course any where but at Norfolk Island, where there

-is no certain shelter, it would be approaching madness to put to sea

-with such a crowd of people in a small ship on a night like this, but

-here there is no help for it. Perhaps had we not got away as we did, we

-might have been detained another week, from the uncertainty of wind

-changes and the insecurity of the anchorages. All night it blew very

-heavily, with a nasty head sea. Of course, the wind being very strong

-and dead ahead, we made little or no progress, and were in fact hove to.

-Most of the passengers spent a very unpleasant night, and the poor

-little children, of whom we had four on board, suffered like the others.

-The poor boys in the schoolroom had a disagreeable time, owing to the

-large amount of cargo on board, in addition to their own luggage. The

-<i>Southern Cross</i>, however, is a magnificent sea boat, although slightly

-lively, and being at sea was, to me at least, the worst of the evils we

-experienced that first night. Mr. Turnbull is a good sailor, and he and

-I were alone in the saloon. Poor old Manekalea I invited also to sleep

-there, on account of his blindness, and I asked Silas Kema to sleep

-there and look after him. Poor fellow, his sight seems quite gone, but

-he is wonderfully patient and resigned. I think now he begins to feel

-that there is no hope of his ever seeing again, and he begins to try and

-help himself and get about alone a great deal more than before. The loss

-of so young, active, and intelligent a Teacher must be much felt in the

-district of Ysabel, formerly under his charge.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, 10th.</i>&mdash;The wind had abated little, if any, this morning, and

-the vessel was making little or no headway. It rained a good deal

-throughout the day, and that allayed both wind and sea by evening. Very

-few of the boys appeared on deck, and I myself was quite <i>hors de

-combat</i>. Mr. Turnbull kindly offered to read prayers in English for me

-in the Evening, and I managed the Mota with a few who were able to

-attend. These first days on board ship are very trying, one feels quite

-out of it altogether, and the sea legs are somewhat long in returning<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">{3}</a></span>

-when one has been ashore for any length of time. Towards evening the

-weather moderated a little, but there was very little life about the

-ship. These unhappy days when one is the victim of <i>mal de mer</i> leave a

-very unsatisfactory impression behind them, and if any recollection is

-left, it is always painful. I was not actually seasick myself, but I

-felt uncomfortable enough for a time, and did not care for ship’s fare.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, 11th.</i>&mdash;The weather more moderate. I conducted Morning Prayer

-both in English and Mota, and generally our passengers were getting over

-their indisposition. It was not a very profitable day however to me, for

-I could not settle to anything: our Service hours on Sunday, at sea, are

-English Mattins at 9 o’clock a.m. and Evensong at 7 p.m. Mota 11 a.m.

-and 7.30 p.m. Our daily hours for meals are 8 a.m. breakfast, 12 noon

-lunch, 5 p.m. dinner. On Sunday this is slightly changed, and we dine at

-1, and tea at 5 p.m. At anchor, too, the English Morning Service is

-postponed to 10 a.m., and all the sailors are enabled to attend. Usually

-only one watch can be present while the vessel is at sea. This year we

-have a crew composed entirely of Englishmen. We have generally had

-previously a strong admixture of foreigners. The steward, indeed, is a

-German, but he has been with us so many voyages, speaks and reads

-English so well, that one quite forgets his nationality. The crew are a

-very nice, quiet, well-behaved set of men, and all look so respectable.

-I believe the Captain has many applications for billets on board the

-<i>Southern Cross</i>, she being a popular vessel now-a-days, besides, a trip

-in her is a paying affair, for I am told that sometimes the men realize

-from £10 to £30 and £40 by the sale of curios alone. The great collector

-on board now is John Brown the boatswain, and he has accumulated quite a

-museum, which he meditates taking to England for sale next year. Brown

-is an old Island Trader, and knows all the specialities of the trade and

-what will captivate the native taste. Penny whistles and half-penny

-looking glasses, I believe, are the line this trip. There is very keen

-competition too on board when the curio fields are reached, chiefly at

-Santa Cruz and some of the Solomon Islands. Sunday passed away somewhat

-profitlessly, and evening once more closed over a day past and gone. I

-did not give the sailors a Sermon, but reserved my efforts for the

-Melanesians, many of whom were able to attend. I naturally chose the

-subject of the Gospel as the basis of my remarks, viz: the recovery of

-the lost sheep and the piece of money, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">{4}</a></span> I applied to the condition

-of the heathen to whom we were going, and our duty as seekers of those

-who were still wandering upon the mountains and upon every high hill,

-with none caring for them or seeking them out. We had some singing after

-the service, and the termination of the day at least was pleasant, and I

-hope profitable. One’s thoughts naturally wandered away back to Norfolk

-Island, and one thought of the quiet peaceful Sunday evenings there, and

-the love of those we had left. The vessel was much more at her ease this

-evening, and we could undress and rest in bed with more comfort.</p>

-

-<p>It was a great pleasure to me from this time forward, to see the boys

-dropping into the cabin one by one to say their prayers, unbidden but

-none the less welcome.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, 12th July.</i>&mdash;This morning the wind has moderated very

-considerably, and the sea is going down. The vessel moving along much

-more gently and easily, sometimes towards our destination. Life on board

-is almost utterly devoid of interest or excitement. There is little or

-nothing stirring, and out of our element we feel restless and not fit

-for much. We begin now however, to fall into ship-shape ways, and things

-begin to look a little straighter than they did. The boys are divided

-into sets of cooks, and have to take their turn in order to cook and

-keep the schoolroom clean. The Melanesians have three meals a day, and

-they are supposed to look after their own food, the cook giving

-directions as to what he wants doing. After the misery and prostration

-of <i>mal de mer</i> have passed off, the boys get very lively, and do not

-easily again succumb.</p>

-

-<p>In the evening we had music. Brown the boatswain has a most ingenious

-instrument called, I think, the “Cabinetto,” which plays almost any

-tune; a piece of perforated paper is turned over a sort of key-board,

-like a mouth organ, by means of a handle, and the closed notes are kept

-silent, while the open ones speak according to the length of the

-perforation. Its tone is somewhat harsh, but the music is very correct,

-and there is plenty of it. Brown bought this instrument, which cost him

-some £15 or £16, for the special amusement of his young Melanesian

-friends. The girls never seem to tire of turning the handle, and the

-more it is turned the better the owner seems pleased. Forward there is a

-very good concertina, exceptionally well played by one of the sailors, a

-banjo played by another, and a tin plate beaten by a third makes a very

-fair tambourine. Altogether, the hour between 5 and 6 p.m. is very

-lively with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5">{5}</a></span> strains of music and other enlivenments. The boys most

-thoroughly enjoy the music, and are very attentive and enthusiastic

-listeners, breaking in with a good chorus when they happen to know any

-of the pieces played. At 7 p.m. English Prayers, a shortened form of

-Evensong with a hymn, and afterwards full Evensong in Mota with a good

-deal of singing. We have many nice voices on board this time, and the

-singing is exceptionally good. Owing to the crowded state of the

-schoolroom, service is held in the saloon, which is inconveniently small

-for the large number who attend. The girls who hitherto have been

-prevented from attending, by reason of sea-sickness, this evening put in

-a very fairly large appearance. Most Melanesian ladies are bad sailors,

-and some never get over the inconveniences of the uncongenial sea

-element.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, 13th July.</i>&mdash;The weather this morning was somewhat finer, but

-still a good deal unsettled. We have failed as yet to get hold of the

-S.E. Trades, but are living in hopes that a favourable breeze will soon

-waft us onward to our destination. The great excitement this morning was

-the smoke of a steamer, which at first we wildly imagined must be the

-vessel expected from Sydney to meet us at Norfolk Island, giving us

-chase. However, wiser heads, by the direction of the ship’s head and the

-course of the smoke, made it out to be the <i>Rockton</i> or some steamer

-from Fiji towards New Caledonia. Whatever ship it may have been, the

-excitement all ended in smoke. Beyond this, we have had nothing stirring

-all day. The moon at night dispersed the clouds, and the concertina

-forward enlivened the monotony of the evening. And so has passed another

-day, leaving little record of any work done.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, 14th July.</i>&mdash;We were to-day somewhere in the neighbourhood

-of Walpole Island, a flat, uninhabited island lying by itself in mid

-ocean, on which myriads of sea birds have their dwelling, and lay their

-eggs and hatch their young. The weather was somewhat hazy, so we got no

-sight of the sun although the Captain was anxious to do so, not having

-been able to see that orb either to-day or yesterday. The ‘dead

-reckoning’ alone showed him our probable whereabouts, but he was not

-able to get any definite position laid down. Shoals of fish were seen

-about the ship to-day, and the boys perched on the bowsprit end

-succeeded in cleverly catching two fine skipjacks, one of which we had

-cooked for dinner, and which was pronounced as very good eating. No bait

-is required for these fish, a line, rod, and hook to which a piece of

-red rag is attached, are requisite, and the motion of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">{6}</a></span> vessel makes

-the tempting object skip along the surface of the water, to which the

-fish rises and swallows hook and all. They are large fish, and

-peculiarly strong, especially with their tails. At times they breach out

-of the water to a great height, the motive power being seated in their

-tails. One of the boys unadvisedly took hold of one of those caught

-to-day too near the tail, and the fish lashing out struck him on the

-forefinger, and at first I fancied had sprained it, for the whole hand

-swelled, and he was in considerable pain for some time. This evening it

-was very quiet and pleasant, and the moon added to the pleasantness of

-the occasion. It is wonderful to mark how the days lengthen as we go

-further North, and how the weather grows warmer. Soon we shall dispense

-with waistcoats, and bye and bye coats will likewise go, except at meals

-and at prayers. We saw nothing of Walpole Island, and the Captain got no

-sight of the sun again to-day.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, 15th July.</i>&mdash;This morning we were well up with Anaiteum, the

-first of the New Hebrides group, and belonging to the Presbyterians who

-have been established there a great number of years. Soon after Tanna

-appeared in view, and later on in the day Eromango. We could not see the

-volcano at Tanna, so that we cannot speak of its activity or otherwise.

-We passed close under Eromango, and for some time the water was quite

-smooth. We had a most beautiful wind all day, the real S.E. Trades, and

-we were enabled to make good progress towards our first place of call.

-Everyone on board seems to have sprung into life with the sight of land,

-and no doubt many see in the islands we are passing the anticipation of

-their own homes. Most of our passengers are from the New Hebrides and

-Banks’ groups, of which these three islands are the commencement. It was

-most beautiful all day and the evening especially enjoyable; the Captain

-wisely remarked that if it were always so fine, there would be too many

-sailors, or at least persons who would want to go to sea. Melanesian

-islands are disappointing as viewed at a distance from the sea, for they

-are like any other place, but the great beauty of them is seen on nearer

-inspection and ashore. These three islands and the Loyalty group are not

-so thickly wooded as some farther North.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, July 16th.</i>&mdash;Strong S.E. Trades, and we moved along rapidly all

-day, doing over two hundred miles. We found ourselves in the evening

-running through the passage between Ambrym and Pentecost at the South

-end of which we expected to find Mr. Brittain, who had been left there

-when the ship went<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">{7}</a></span> back to Norfolk Island. We stood quite close into

-the place, but receiving no manner of response from the shore we began

-to suspect that after all the bird had flown. The vessel stood off and

-on all the night, and it certainly was more comfortable than usually is

-the case under the like circumstances. The vessel rode very quietly all

-night, and on</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, July 17th.</i>&mdash;We were early off our place of call, and seeing

-no signs ashore the boat was lowered and I took the steer oar in a

-furious wind and a heavy sea. The approach to and departure from this

-place were as nasty as could be, and I was not sorry to be on board all

-right again. Mr. Brittain had left some time before, and our visit was

-futile except that we brought off his things. The people were quiet and

-well behaved, and Tom (the teacher) was in great form. Tom, having been

-educated in Sydney, speaks remarkably good English and is evidently held

-in respect by his people. Their dress and appearance are very like their

-neighbours of Ambrym, and the women wear the flaxen petticoat also like

-the Ambrymese. Their language, too, I believe, is akin, the distance

-separating the two islands not being more than five or six miles. Tom is

-building a very nice school, and there seems a large population. A big,

-chiefly looking man was sitting on the beach as we were coming away, and

-Tom told me that he was the chief of the place. I had brought nothing

-with me from the ship, and the boys had nothing, so the best I could do

-for the great man was to give him a tin of sardines which I got out of

-one of Mr. Brittain’s boxes. I dare say he would have preferred tobacco,

-but he seemed as satisfied as natives usually appear to be, for they are

-not generally very demonstrative or profuse in their thanks. The tide

-was falling fast so we had to beat a hasty retreat and got off with some

-considerable difficulty.</p>

-

-<p>Poor Tom must find life at home somewhat of a change to the ‘easy life’

-he enjoyed in Sydney. I believe he was very much scandalized when he

-first got home at the outrageously indecent dress of his countrymen. He

-himself still dons the Sydney costume, but minus boots. Poor boy! I dare

-say he dreamed in Sydney of the reforms he would endeavour to effect

-when he got home, but the stern difficulties in the way he now begins to

-realize. Oh! Missionary work seems easy enough when viewed from an arm

-chair at a distance of many thousand miles, the difficulties only become

-apparent when the man is brought into close connection with his work,

-and has to grapple in a stubborn, persistant hand to hand fight with the

-Evil one. Poor Tom! I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8">{8}</a></span> suppose he will try a little at first to stem the

-tide, and failing in that, will drift along with the stream. To a poor

-youth like that the difficulties of his position must seem stupendous

-and insurmountable. Nothing but the grace of God is sufficient for such.

-I dare say ere now his bright vistas and day dreams are being only too

-rudely dispelled, for he will have to find out like all other

-Missionaries that Christians are not made by machinery, or believers

-made such in a day; it is a long and weary process, but labour is not in

-vain in the Lord. Once more on board, the boat was hauled up, and on we

-started for the North end of the island where now we hoped to find Mr.

-Brittain. We saw a Labour vessel at anchor along the coast, and got to

-our own anchorage about 4 p.m. Mr. Brittain came off in his boat very

-sick, and with some difficulty got on board. He has been ill three weeks

-and was very anxious for the return of the vessel. During the evening he

-brightened up a good deal and I dare say felt much better for the

-society of his white brethren. He gave a very sad account of the state

-of things ashore, great sickness and considerable mortality. We had a

-very quiet night at anchor, and determined to stay here till Monday. We

-had some boys to land, and the boats were going forth and back all the

-evening. The clatter alongside was fearful owing to the large number of

-canoes that put off to the ship and every occupant speaking at the same

-time. They used to be a very noisy crowd, but have much improved of late

-years. It was a most glorious night at anchor and not excessively hot.

-We consider that we have done very well to be here so soon with the bad

-start from Norfolk Island. How the boys and girls did enjoy the fruits

-of their own islands again, especially green cocoanuts and soft sugar

-cane! And how pleasing was it too, as well as entertaining, as the

-shades of evening closed in, to watch the coy and shy flirtations of the

-young married couples on board; one or two were quite oldfashioned at

-the process, but Charles and Monica especially were somewhat more

-bashful. The young bridegrooms were most attentive to their respective

-spouses on the voyage but necessarily lived apart. The boys and men all

-live together in the schoolroom, and the girls and married women aft.

-There are as yet no married people’s apartments, we shall look for those

-when we get a bigger ship.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, 18th July.</i>&mdash;Quiet and peaceful day at Araga. The natives

-regarded the observance of Sunday so strictly that they troubled us very

-little with their noisy chatter, indeed very few canoes came off at all

-to the ship, and we were able to have an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9">{9}</a></span> uninterrupted day of rest. Our

-services began at 10 a.m. with English Prayers. We chanted the Venite,

-read the Te Deum, and sang the Jubilate besides singing the Glorias in

-the Psalms, and two hymns. We had therefore full Mattins with a short

-address to which the men paid very good attention. I tried to make the

-discourse as easy and lively as possible, and interspersed a few

-anecdotes among my remarks, which I think, being appropriate, were

-appreciated. The service lasted just three quarters of an hour so that

-the men were not wearied. It was not a very hot day, but beautifully

-bright and glorious. Shorewards it looked most lovely, the bright

-sunshine lighting up the vegetation with a silver sheen, everything

-seeming to catch the infection from the King of Day, who rejoiced as a

-giant to run his course. On board a gentle breeze cooled the air, and

-under the awning and down below alike it was bearably comfortable and

-refreshing.</p>

-

-<p>At 11 o’clock we had service in Mota, at which we had the attendance of

-all the Melanesians of both sexes in the ship, and a very hearty,

-cheering service it was. I reserved my address to them for the evening

-and before noon our religious duties for the morning were over. We dined

-at 1 o’clock and in the afternoon Mr. Turnbull and myself went ashore.

-This was his first experience in these islands and he was duly impressed

-with the natural beauty everywhere apparent, and the good nature of the

-people. It was nearly high water when we went in over the reef, and the

-clearness of the sea, the beauty of the coral bed, the dear little blue

-and vari-coloured fish which flitted about produced their due effect on

-him. The white beach, too, with its background of most luxuriant green

-rising from the base and clothing in marvellous profusion the tops of

-the hills greatly delighted him. The climb up the hill somewhat

-dispelled the fancy, but one could well imagine oneself in some

-semi-fairy land so strangely beautiful as it all looked. We were in a

-very liquid state when we reached the school about three quarters of a

-mile up the hill, and green cocoanuts were very acceptable. Here we

-found in the midst of all the loveliness a poor little child dying amid

-squalor and destitution. The poor young mother was sitting over it and

-crying her heart out. Her son had been buried the day before and there

-seemed not a particle of hope for the elder sister. I said what I could

-to comfort the mother, but it was too late to do anything for the child.

-The father with a third child was walking up and down disconsolately

-outside. The sight had its effect on me, for the father bears the

-honoured name of my great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">{10}</a></span> friend Bishop Key of Kaffraria, the mother

-bears my wife’s name, and the little dying one the name of my own

-daughter, the boy too who died the day before was called “Bailey” a

-cognomen revered by all Augustinians as the name of its late Warden.</p>

-

-<p>Poor things! May God give them all the comfort of His grace, the only

-balm for a troubled and afflicted soul.</p>

-

-<p>We walked about the village for a time and everything being utterly new

-and strange to Mr. Turnbull he was very much charmed. We visited old

-Sarawia who was once, and I dare say now is, the chief man in the place.

-He still looks much the same as ever but professed himself to be failing

-in health, and suffering from a sort of paralysis in his left leg. It

-does not seem however as if he intended to die just yet for he has

-lately taken two or three additional wives. We also saw the great wind

-and rain maker, but he said he had given up the trade now, and came to

-school regularly. Formerly he used to derive a good income from it I

-believe.</p>

-

-<p>The houses and gamals (men’s quarters) here are most squalid and

-wretched, but the people seem content, and don’t trouble themselves much

-about their habitations, but what they shall eat or drink is a prominent

-consideration in all their minds. Their great treasures here are pigs

-and mats, and a man’s wealth and standing is measured by his possession

-in these. After proceeding through various grades if a man can kill one

-hundred pigs at a feast he is looked upon as a man of importance and his

-name is handed down to posterity as a great man, and I believe by that

-means his fare is prepaid to the realms of the Blest. The reverse I

-believe obtains with those who possess no treasures and kill no pigs.

-Everyone therefore in the interval between his advent into this world

-and his departure from it, endeavours to slaughter according to custom

-one pig or more, or the consequences will be terrible if not here at

-least hereafter.</p>

-

-<p>This is a cheap way at all events of purchasing blessedness and no

-wonder they are eager with the small price for it. A fighting man

-formerly was looked upon as having more claim to their Walhalla than a

-man who refused or who had failed to take blood. This title certainly of

-late years has not been so eagerly coveted, and so far it is,

-thankworthy, but “when the wicked man turneth away from his wickedness

-and doeth that which is lawful and right he shall save his soul alive,”

-this last clause as yet is omitted from their programme.</p>

-

-<p>On our way back I could not refrain from paying another<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11">{11}</a></span> visit to the

-dying child. There still sat the faithful mother, and there still lay

-her pretty child, life was not yet extinct, and she had turned since I

-saw her before. I determined when I got off to the ship to try and get

-some medicine as a sort of dernier resort. I doubt if medicine will ever

-more do any good. We got off to the ship before 5 p.m., and at that hour

-had tea, bread and sardines, and cake which the cook had concocted. The

-“Cabinetto” was going most of the evening, Brown having thoughtfully

-brought some sacred sheets for Sundays. At 7 p.m. we had Evensong in

-English and afterwards in Mota with an address on the Gospel, “Be ye

-therefore merciful,” “not only were we to ask mercy for ourselves I

-said, but we too must extend it to others, and we should find plenty of

-opportunity of doing so, in the places to which we were going. If we

-only felt for a moment the mercy of God towards us as revealed in Christ

-Jesus, we must be merciful to our fellows, and we must show them the

-same mercy we had experienced and known in our Saviour’s dealings with

-our own souls.”</p>

-

-<p>We had great singing afterwards, which they always enjoy. It was most

-resplendent on deck afterwards, and one was thankful for the quiet and

-refreshment throughout of the day of rest.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, 19th July.</i>&mdash;Mr. Brittain well enough this morning to go ashore

-to collect his things and make arrangements with his teachers. It is his

-intention if health permits to stay ashore in Mr. Palmer’s district at

-Mota and the Banks’ Islands, but in his present condition such a step

-would scarcely be wise. However, time will tell. While he was ashore Mr.

-Huggett, the mate, always ready to lend a helping hand, and myself put

-the teacher’s things together, and when he came off Mr. Brittain had

-nothing to do but give them out according as they had been deserved.

-Meanwhile there were crowds of people round about the ship, and much

-trading was carried on by the boys and girls on board. They use here

-canoes with outriggers, and the larger ones are very clumsy, unwieldy

-monsters. The Captain hates the sight of them alongside for they rub the

-paint off the ship, and sometimes even damage the copper. In the Solomon

-Islands they have no outriggers, and the natives are much more expert in

-the management of their canoes, both large and small.</p>

-

-<p>Here at Araga they have a very large number of canoes, but they are very

-bad.</p>

-

-<p>We weighed anchor at noon and stood across to Opa and were at anchor at

-Tavolavola by about 3.30 p.m.; a very nice<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">{12}</a></span> breeze took us across, and

-on arrival there we made preparations for going ashore at once. I found

-matters satisfactory ashore, and the school in full swing, the young

-teachers all neatly and nicely dressed.</p>

-

-<p>They were glad to have Charles back again and the women walked off with

-his pretty wife, dressed in all her bit of best. She had done a good

-deal of weeping between the ship and shore, evidently being very

-reluctant to leave her friends on board. Her eyes therefore were

-slightly tear bedyed, and her cheeks also, before she got ashore. The

-school looked cared for, and I was pleased to see a very nice new house

-built for me. The people were very glad to have me back and received me

-in their usually cordial fashion. An English Trader had built a house,

-and had resided some months near the village, but had lately taken his

-departure, why I know not, but I believe there was not trade enough.</p>

-

-<p>There are a number of white men now trading all over the island, the

-mystery is how they can make it pay. Monica was very tearful again when

-I bid her good-bye, poor girl I dare say she will have a hard struggle

-at first among her own country women, but I trust she may have strength

-given her to resist the wiles of the Evil one and his agents among them.

-She is a pretty, flighty girl, but much improved of late, and became a

-great favourite on board. She has a most estimable husband and I hope

-she will make him a good helpmeet.</p>

-

-<p>We passed a very pleasant night at the snug anchorage and all the boys

-came off to the ship next morning.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, 20th July.</i>&mdash;We weighed anchor and dropped down to Lobaha,

-about four miles along the coast to the Westward. Here we found Herbert

-Arudale well. He came off to the ship with his wife Mary who was not

-well. They seem to live much happier now, and both were beaming over

-with smiles. He gives but a poor account of his work, which is much in

-<i>statu quo</i>. The fact is his field is very limited if he must confine

-himself to his own people, and it never suggests itself to a Melanesian

-to go farther a-field. The mountain must come to Mahomet, for Mahomet

-never dreams of going to the mountain. However, now with Didi and his

-wife, a most exemplary pair, and seemingly very devoted, they ought to

-make a fresh start. Baitagaro I saw ashore and he seems to have

-improved, but it must be heart breaking work to labour on year after

-year, and get little or no attention to what you say, no appreciation of

-the message you<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13">{13}</a></span> bring, and no interest taken in all you endeavour to

-do. However, it is what the Man of Sorrows passed through, and it is

-what His true followers have to experience also.</p>

-

-<p>Here we almost filled the ship with fruit, especially a kind ardently

-longed for by the Norfolk Islanders, which they call the Vee apple, but

-which the Opa people term “Uhi.” Some very sweet oranges too were

-offered for sale, and the ship looked like a fruit market.</p>

-

-<p>We hoisted our anchor before noon and stood across to Maewo where we

-anchored in the evening. No one being down on the beach, I started off

-Arthur Huqe and Duwu to Tanrig to tell the people to come down in the

-morning.</p>

-

-<p>The village is three or four miles from the watering place and except

-the ship is there, the Tanrigese seldom come down to this beach, the sea

-being nearer on the other side of the island. Mr. Turnbull and I with

-some of the boys went in and had a most delicious bath, after so many

-days privation all the nicer. The river we found very full and the rush

-very great, but the water was most beautifully cool and refreshing. This

-now is the chief and best watering place in the islands, and the water

-itself is most excellent. Late in the evening a boy arrived who had

-rowed a long distance in his canoe, and he gave us the news, which was

-good on the whole. He told me again the tragic story enacted at N̈adui,

-a village not far from the watering place. One Vulatewa was a reputed

-disease-maker, and he resided there. Lately there had been a great

-mortality at Maewo, and especially among the still heathen people of

-Tanrowo, a coastal district bordering on N̈adui. The great man,

-Melkalano’s son died and his brother and many others, and Vulatewa

-insisted that he had made the sickness, and would kill many more except

-he were propitiated. However, propitiation by the gift of pigs or money

-was not in Melkalano’s line, and collecting his followers he made a raid

-on poor Vulatewa and killed him and two others, cutting them into small

-pieces, and leaving them as they were killed.</p>

-

-<p>They then drove out the other inhabitants, or rather fear had already

-lent them wings for flight, and destroyed the village. The poor people

-left everything they possessed behind, and took refuge in all directions

-among their friends. The people at the next village, where there was a

-flourishing school, took fright also, and cleared out of their homes

-leaving a fine handsome school-house and a new church almost finished.

-The boy added that as soon as Vulatewa was dead the sickness was stayed.

-We did<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14">{14}</a></span> no watering this evening as the tide did not suit. After a very

-quiet night at anchor on</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, 21st July.</i>&mdash;We started watering ship. This is a busy

-process and keeps everyone on board well employed. Two large canvas

-tanks are fitted into each boat, and fastened underneath the thwarts.

-Into these the water is poured from buckets until both are full, a

-suction pump and hose on board empties these canvas tanks into iron

-receptacles under the floor of the schoolroom, and one boatload fills

-about a tank and a half. Seven or eight loads of water therefore

-finished the watering to-day. When everything was finished, the boys and

-girls went ashore to wash their clothes and bathe, and this day here is

-always looked forward to. The people came down from Tanrig in the

-morning, and I was busy packing up my things. After lunch I went ashore

-and started away the bearers with my belongings. How they managed to

-carry all the heavy boxes and a big harmonium up the hill and on for

-three or four miles, I don’t know, but they did it, and did not think

-much of it. I went on board again, and thanks to the Captain’s kindness,

-I got the loan of one of the ship’s boats, my own having been stolen by

-a labour ship last year. After an early dinner, escorted by Arthur, &amp;c.,

-I left for Tanrig. It was just getting dusk when I arrived, and I had no

-time to put anything straight. We had Evensong, and after that I

-prepared for bed. The mosquitos were somewhat numerous, but it was too

-late to get out my net, and so I put up with their music, and soon was

-oblivious of their singing or teasing. It seems quite natural to be here

-again, and as is usual the place has not changed at all. The boys

-however, have built me a beautiful new house, and I shall live in great

-comfort. I miss several faces too from the congregation, whom death has

-removed.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, 22nd July.</i>&mdash;I left the <i>Southern Cross</i> last night expecting

-to get away early this morning, which I suppose she did. However I am so

-far away from the sea, that I have no means of knowing what she did.

-Naturally too, I was very busy this first day ashore. The first business

-after Morning Prayer, was to start off Samuel and the Tasmouri

-contingent who had spent the night here. They had a good many things to

-receive, but they got away in time to reach home before night. There

-were numbers of other things to be done also, such as putting the new

-window in the Church, unpacking the harmonium, making a platform for it,

-&amp;c. The old mode of life seems to come back wonderfully naturally to me.

-Breakfast of rice, with sugar and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15">{15}</a></span> cocoanut milk, and afterwards a cup

-of delicious Norfolk Island coffee, for which delicacy I am indebted to

-my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher Nobbs. My midday meal is a bit of

-biscuit or roasted yam, and I reserve myself for the great meal of the

-day in the evening, not sumptuous but amply sufficient, fried rasher of

-bacon, fried taro pancake, and most excellent potatoes, for which I am

-indebted to Mr. Alfred Nobbs at Norfolk Island. After this I have a cup

-of milkless tea, which I brew in that charming teapot sent me from China

-by Dr. Codrington. They say ‘enough is as good as a feast,’ and I

-suppose this is why I am perfectly satisfied with this rough meal. After

-dinner I have nothing again till next morning.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, 23rd July.</i>&mdash;A most superb morning, and the place looks very

-charming early in the day and in the evening, at midday there is a

-strong glare and it is almost too dazzling. The church looks most

-picturesque and pretty, nestling in a perfect forest of bright coloured

-shrubs, among which are many European representatives, <i>e.g.</i> the

-Poinsettia, the Geranium, Marvel of Peru, and others imported from

-Norfolk Island. Arthur certainly has expended great pains and taste in

-the plantation, and it amply rewards him. Outside the stone fence is an

-orange grove, the dark green of which stands out in bold relief against

-the bright colours within. The church is still in a good state of

-preservation and will last for some time yet. It is getting

-inconveniently small however, and will soon want enlarging. It bears

-evident signs of being made good use of, and they tell me the

-congregation morning and evening is never short of 50 or 60. In a very

-short time I hope this will be a purely Christian village, and that not

-only in name, but in deed and in truth. I see considerable change here

-since I left in the number of the new houses, and the care of the town,

-for such it now has a right to be called. Before long the Church will be

-the centre of a number of private residences, and the people begin to

-build better houses. Arthur has constructed his like mine with high

-walls caned all round, and made it very comfortable.</p>

-

-<p>Except the ground floor my house is quite as nice as a one roomed

-boarded house. The school and church are almost contiguous, and both are

-strong, substantial buildings. There are at present 80 names of scholars

-on the books, and these are regular attendants. I hope before I leave,

-please God, to see that number augmented. At present we are strong in

-teachers, with the two Arthurs, Patrick, Harry, Duwu, Tilegi, Kate and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16">{16}</a></span>

-Agnes. This morning after service, a shortened form of Mattins with a

-hymn, we had school, and I hope progress has been made. I was pleased to

-hear the teachers questioning their classes on the subject about which

-they had been reading. The perseverance of the old men in puzzling out

-the dreary sheets is perfectly astonishing, but they will not be denied.

-They have, however, learnt much by heart, e.g. Lord’s Prayer, Creed, Te

-Deum, &amp;c. The women are quite as persevering, if not more so, and I

-don’t like to damp their ardour by forbidding them to try and learn to

-read. The first class of girls are far away ahead of the boys, and know

-a very great deal. These same girls used to sing very nicely, but they

-have got into the most disagreeable drawl, and so far from following a

-leader, they take the bit between their teeth, and sing as fancy

-dictates. This I shall try and remedy before I leave again. We have now

-a harmonium for our services, thanks to the very great kindness of my

-friend and benefactress in England, Miss Mount, who is far more

-beneficent than I at all deserve. The two Arthurs play very fairly well,

-but Arthur Huqe is organist at present. After school I had visitors from

-Golvanua, a populous district some ten or twelve miles from here. They

-are very peculiar people and very wild, I am sorry to say I have only

-been there once, and that only a flying visit. I told them I was coming

-again soon, and they seemed pleased. I gave the head man some tobacco,

-and he said when I came to their place he would give me food and take

-care of me. Our people here are rather terrified of them, and the

-distance is so great that very few have ever been there. There were two

-nice little boys with them, and I asked them if they were not tired, but

-they scouted the idea.</p>

-

-<p>I was so busy all day that I did not get away from home, and things

-begin to be a bit more ship-shape. I begin to feel very comfortable in

-my new house, but I dare say if my friends saw me, they would fancy it

-was far from comfort. However, I have a continual feast in a contented

-mind. In the evening, instead of school, we had singing, into which I

-endeavoured to infuse some life and harmony, and partially succeeded,

-but not to my taste quite yet. Then in the evening I held a teacher’s

-class, and we had much profitable conversation.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, 24th July.</i>&mdash;This is observed by us as a whole holiday, and

-after Morning Prayer nothing is required of the school till the evening

-service. Arthur Aruduliwar decided to have his house thatched to-day,

-and a large party assembled to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17">{17}</a></span> help him. Here they do everything by

-means of ‘Bees,’ (working parties). ‘Bees’ dig the gardens, plant the

-crops, dig the food, build the houses. The women do the cooking, and the

-owner of the house makes the feast, this is all he has to do, he is not

-supposed himself to do any work. Next week they are going to thatch a

-gamal, more stupendous work, and a great many people are going to be

-engaged, and there is to be much feasting, and I believe a dance.

-Marvellous harmony prevails in this community at present, and I never

-hear a harsh expression, nor witness a passionate action. They are the

-merriest, happiest, most contented people I ever saw, and I think the

-best natured. A party from Tasmouri appeared during the morning, and

-Thomas Aruloli among them. I asked him to stay the night, but he replied

-that it was his Sunday at Tasmate to-morrow, and he would not like to

-miss. I was pleased at this, for it showed the boy’s conscientiousness

-with respect to his self-imposed duty. I gave him his goods, and he and

-the others started again soon after for home. These natives don’t seem

-to know what fatigue is, and this double journey, which I should be

-sorry to undertake, they make nothing of it. After a frugal lunch the

-boys and I went to Ruos, where we bathed and washed our clothes. The

-river is certainly a boon and a blessing, and a good bathe has a most

-invigorating effect on one. In the evening the teachers came in and sat

-a long time with me, and we had much suitable conversation. While they

-were sitting here, a sound, which I had heard all day and couldn’t find

-the reason of, kept going on continually, and I asked Arthur what it

-was. He told me it was a bamboo placed high up on a top branch of a

-banyan tree in front of my house, in which notches were cut below each

-joint, and when the wind blew strong it sounded in the bamboo with the

-same effect that would be produced by so many persons blowing at once

-into the several orifices. This seemed to me very ingenious, but Arthur

-Huqe tells me they have the same practice at Opa. They say when the wind

-blows strong the sound is heard a great distance off, and I can quite

-imagine it.</p>

-

-<p>We heard this evening the reports of two big guns in the direction of

-the watering place, so it is conjectured that a vessel is at anchor

-there. However it was too late to go and see.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, 25th July.</i>&mdash;First Sunday ashore at Maewo, and a very quiet and

-pleasant day it has been. I think too, it has been one of the most

-gloriously brilliant days I have ever seen. The morning was beautiful,

-the midday marvellously resplendent, and the evening indescribably

-lovely. The place did look so beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">{18}</a></span> too. I told the people they

-ought never to cease praising God for so beautiful a heritage as He had

-given them. They have not a want or a care, but I fear they fail to

-appreciate the beauty, according to the truth of the old adage which

-speaks of familiarity breeding contempt. We had Sunday school very

-early, for two reasons more especially, (1) because it is cooler in the

-morning, (2) because we are not plagued with blowflies which appear in

-untold numbers wherever there is any congregation of people.</p>

-

-<p>After a short interval devoted to breakfast, we had Mattins, and after

-this a short service and an address for the teachers. We had a very few

-strangers present to-day, but all our own people turned up. We did away

-with the great midday feast to-day for the first time for many years,

-but some of the women cooked a large quantity of food which was

-distributed to the boys in the usual way. This food business had become

-too laborious, and too much the chief part of the day, so that I fancied

-a relaxation for a time would be beneficial.</p>

-

-<p>Patrick went to Mandurvat to take service there, but I stayed at Tanrig.

-At six different stations, school and service have been held and the day

-duly observed.</p>

-

-<p>Evensong was a pleasant service here, and the church looked very nice

-lit up with the new lamps. The strains of the harmonium too, gave an

-additional pathos and homeliness to the occasion. I gave an address on

-the Gospel for 5th Sunday after Trinity, which I think was understood

-and appreciated. We had much singing afterwards and the public part of

-the day ended with the Blessing. May that blessing ever rest upon us

-here and elsewhere, and may we always endeavour to do all to God’s

-glory.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, 26th July.</i>&mdash;I reckoned without my host last night when I

-rashly permitted Agnes and Kate to cook for me this week at their own

-request. They made a tremendous fuss about it, but the rice came to

-table uncooked, and in such a small quantity that my breakfast was

-spoilt and the coffee was anything but good. However they did their best

-and I dare say to-morrow they will do all right. They were both

-wonderfully good, and not only washed up for me but gave my premises a

-good sweep as well. Poor Agnes, she is hideously lame, but she pretends

-to the liveliness of a kitten. The fence around the school is rather

-high and I watched her endeavours to get over with her lameness and her

-petticoats. She managed better than I expected, but I stood by in

-readiness to lend her a helping hand in case she fell. She comes back

-fully impressed with a sense of her importance and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19">{19}</a></span> dignity after so

-many years absence, and her friends made a great deal of her. To-day she

-is off with the other women on some excursion or other, and is fully

-convinced that she is as active as any of them. Before long no doubt she

-will fancy herself useful and engaging enough to be the life partner of

-Tilegi, and to be the faithful companion of his joys and sorrows. She is

-an intelligent girl, and her long training at Norfolk Island ought to

-make her useful here. She is perfectly charmed with her home, and she

-sees very plainly the beneficial results produced by Christianity. When

-she left, she herself was among the few baptized, now she comes back to

-the bosom of a Christian community with a good church and school, daily

-Morning and Evening Prayers, and perfect harmony and good will among all

-men. She will miss little at home now of what she has grown accustomed

-to at Norfolk Island, and it must be a pleasant realization to her. The

-girls, too, with whom she will have daily association are all

-Christians, and she will be spared the shock and repulsion of heathen

-women’s talk and actions. Her father has died in the interval, a truly

-godly man in his life, and a believer at the time of his death.</p>

-

-<p>There is no face I miss here more than that of James, a true and

-faithful friend to me, and I firmly believe, too, of our Lord and

-Saviour Jesus Christ. Arthur tells me his death was perfectly peaceful

-and happy, and he desired at the last to depart and be with Christ which

-was far better. His two children followed him, and the three lie side by

-side in the quiet and rest of the grave. A reputed mother, but one who

-is really an aunt, Amina, takes charge of Agnes until Tilegi or some one

-else claims her as a bride, for in spite of her deformity I suppose she

-will not eschew marriage herself, or be allowed to remain in single

-blessedness by her friends, for here young ladies are not over

-plentiful, and to judge by the appearance of some already married there

-is no accounting for taste among the men of the place. Elizabeth, the

-wife of James, has found solace in another partner, but she spoke of her

-former husband with a due amount of grief and tears, and said to me,

-pointing in the direction of his grave, “He lies asleep over there.”</p>

-

-<p>Yet there are here those who are ‘widows indeed,’ and good old Dorcas is

-one such. This old lady well deserves her name, for she is full of alms

-deeds, and kindness to all, and I firmly believe is a true follower of

-Jesus Christ. She lives alone with a little grandchild in her own hut

-and trains up dutifully the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">{20}</a></span> child in the way she should go. Very seldom

-is old Dorcas away from her seat in church, and she exercises a benign

-and gentle influence over her own sex in the village. Anna, another good

-old widow, has died in my absence, and the loss of such is much felt.

-Among the younger women there is a perfect colony of children, and this

-is most thankworthy as being a proof that infanticide has been quite

-stamped out, and formerly it seemed to be a sort of religious duty here.

-Children were looked upon as being uncanny as well as a nuisance, and if

-the mother did not kill her offspring herself, she found plenty of

-aiders and abettors in the old midwives who attended her. The father

-seemed utterly impotent to prevent the evil. Now the fathers have turned

-head nurses and are abundantly proud of their children.</p>

-

-<p>This morning after Prayers and school I walked down to the river side at

-Rarava, whither almost the entire population had preceded me, and where

-I lit upon a busy scene. It was a most resplendent day, but the

-overhanging branches of the wide spreading foliage lent a charm and

-grateful shade to the occasion. The men were engaged in digging the

-‘taro’ roots, from their irrigated beds, and the women busy washing and

-preparing them for culinary purposes. The ladies here, present no

-exception to a proverbial excess in the use of the ‘unruly member’ as

-the especially noticeable characteristic of the gentler sex in more

-favoured parts of the world, and a Babel-like clatter of tongues formed

-a striking accompaniment to the quietness and order of the work in hand.

-The taro beds of course are mud, pure and simple, and the taro when dug

-is a very dirty vegetable, it is covered over besides with long

-tenacious feelers for roots, and these are picked off with the fingers

-in the most skilled and practised manner much after the fashion of

-plucking and preparing a bird for table. When the cleaning and plucking

-process is perfected, the long stalks are collected to a head and tied

-up in convenient bundles with one of their own parts in the most

-ingenious and knowing manner. Two bundles are then arranged on one long

-pole, and carried by one bearer on the shoulder, one bundle before and

-another behind their backs. The weight is considerable, but here the

-burden is borne by the men, the women carry the broad leaves and other

-concomitants of native cookery. Beyond the cackle there was very much

-merriment which all seemed in accord with the dancing sparkling waters

-of the clear flowing river. The prospect around was most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21">{21}</a></span> beautiful and

-although not extensive the landscape was most bewitching, and the eye

-was never tired with seeing.</p>

-

-<p>These natives have great natural taste, which is displayed to a far

-greater degree in the arrangement and beautifying of their yam and taro

-gardens here, than in any other island I have seen.</p>

-

-<p>The broad, handsome evergreen taro leaf spreads its verdure right and

-left, and all around, amid the friendship of the gay-leaved croton, the

-majestic dracæna, and the vari-coloured hibiscus, while here and there,

-to vary the prospect, the graceful cocoanut lends the beauty and

-elegance of its chastely spreading branches; all this beauty is thrown

-into relief by a back ground of the most marvellously beautiful bush,

-which shuts it in as with a natural fence, and leaves the only wish and

-feeling with the observer just to get for a moment a peep of what lies

-beyond. Breaks here and there however, in the background, revealed

-distant hills clad to their very summits with a richness and profusion

-of vegetation such as always abounds in these lovely islands where

-‘every prospect pleases.’ I could select so many subjects for pictures

-here as almost to finish up all my dry plates, my only hope is that I

-may meet with some measure of success when by and bye I try my hand at

-photography. A header into the cool waters and a swim up and down stream

-was very refreshing. The boys enlivened the scene by their merriment and

-gambolling in the water, and altogether it was an occasion of much

-delight, and not the less so to me when I considered that all these

-people, almost without exception, had passed before through the healing

-waters of Holy Baptism. As possessing so much of the element, it is

-perhaps only natural that these people should love the water, and bathe

-a great deal more than their appearance would give one reason to

-suspect. The boys, and more especially, I think, the girls, are very

-fond of the water, and never seem tired of bathing when near the

-river-side. ‘Tanrig’ is distant about two miles from the river, and this

-distance, although inconvenient for many reasons, is very convenient for

-others, and especially because of the mosquitos which abound in the

-neighbourhood. Here some times they are bad enough, but by the

-water-side they are, I believe, unbearable. I know I find them

-troublesome enough there by day, and I don’t care to experience the

-worry and misery of them by night. They are called here ‘namu,’ and are

-said to be particularly troublesome at a certain period in the growth

-and maturity of the yam.</p>

-

-<p>Any one who has not lived in a tropical country can have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22">{22}</a></span> very little

-conception of the discomfort and worry of these little maddening

-tormentors. Yet there are others whose attacks produce more serious

-consequences, and an illustration was afforded this evening. “Kate

-Tevano” (Arthur’s wife) was coming across to my house, and when almost

-at my door she gave a scream of terror and retired at once back again. I

-rushed out to learn the cause, and found she had been bitten by a

-centipede in the toe. The blood was just oozing out, and there were the

-distinct marks of his two fangs. In about ten minutes she was in great

-agony, and in the course of the evening her foot swelled and the pain

-was most terrible, and she couldn’t bear anything near it. Poor child, I

-left her in floods of bitter tears before going to bed, and she expected

-to be in pain all night long. The natives have some antidote for it, and

-the women were applying that all the evening. I confess that I did not

-know myself what to do, except to bathe it with hot water. There was a

-great hunt for the venomous little reptile, but of course he had made

-himself scarce. How he got on her foot, and why he bit her, no one

-knows, but there are multitudes of the creatures here, and perhaps the

-mystery is that people are not more often bitten. They have scorpions

-too here whose bite is very venomous, but one doesn’t often hear of

-their biting. There is a very large ant here called the ‘gandee’ to

-which I have a great aversion, and its bite is very sharp. Snakes here

-are not venomous, but the people have an instinctive dread of them, but

-they do not trouble us much. There is a hideous creature which lives in

-the thatch of the houses, an ugly toad-like lizard, with large red

-prominent eyes, which has such a tenacity of grasp with its feet that it

-sometimes even sticks so tight to the person it attacks as to take away

-the very skin in its grasp. Indeed, to me there are many strange and

-uncanny creatures in these islands to which I give as wide a berth as

-possible. Even in putting on your clothes you may find that a scorpion

-or centipede have taken up their quarters, in your hat you may find

-another monster, while most likely your shoes will be the tenement of

-some hideous reptile. Use and experience cannot rid one of a shudder

-when one thinks what may be, and yet if one is always anticipating these

-evils one’s very life becomes a burden.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, 27th July.</i>&mdash;I visited poor Kate this morning as soon as I got

-up, and found her still in considerable pain and her foot a good deal

-swollen. She had slept but little during the night, and was still very

-tearful. However, her friends assured<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23">{23}</a></span> her that the poisonous effects

-would soon pass away, and it proved true, for I saw her walking, or

-rather limping about during the course of the forenoon. I was anxious to

-see a centipede this morning, and by and bye a man came bringing one

-which he held tightly by head and tail. It was a pretty creature and not

-so black as some I have seen, the legs indeed were of an orange yellow

-colour. It tried very hard to riggle away, but the ruthless boys soon

-put an end to its existence. How many legs it actually has I did not

-stop to count, but I saw its nasty fangs and preferred keeping a

-respectable distance from them.</p>

-

-<p>A nasty lizard such as I have before mentioned was shortly after

-discovered in the thatch of my house just over my head, and captured

-after an exciting hunt. One creeps when these creatures are brought so

-near one, and is thankful for daily protection from them.</p>

-

-<p>To-day has been the occasion of an important event here, viz: the

-thatching of a gamal (men’s quarters). This, indeed, is one of the

-greatest events known here, and there has been much feasting and

-festivity. The men do the thatching, and neighbours and strangers from a

-distance come to assist. There must have been quite a hundred men at

-work to-day, and it was the part and duty of the women to prepare food

-for them, and judging by the quantity spread out to-night they must have

-been kept pretty busy at work.</p>

-

-<p>The house was a large one, and it took most of the day to finish it. The

-roof when complete was most neat, and a perfect protection from heat and

-wet for many years to come. The thatch is made from the frond of the

-sago palm and very durable. Cocoanut fronds are sometimes used, but they

-do not make so neat a roof nor nearly so lasting.</p>

-

-<p>These native houses, although seemingly such poor structures, take some

-time and skill in building, and are very fair habitations when finished.

-They are rather low according to our ideas of comfort, but the natives

-grow accustomed to a crouching posture within doors, and they say the

-low roof does not catch the wind so easily, nor is the interior so cold.

-This is a consideration for people with no clothing, and I know myself

-from experience how cool it sometimes is here. Indeed, this very year I

-have never passed a night without being covered with a blanket, and even

-then I have not quite kept the cold away. A native, however, generally

-sleeps near a fire, and the interior of their houses are very snug.

-After the work was done this evening there was a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24">{24}</a></span> great brew of kava, a

-drink made from the root of the kava plant, but here called “Malowo,”

-and highly intoxicating. There is much ceremony in connection with the

-drinking of this beverage, which as far as I have seen, if taken in fair

-moderation, produces strong inebriation, but is not an excitant, nor

-does it leave any ill effects when once the narcotic effects pass off.

-Any one who drinks is supposed to do so fasting, in order, I believe,

-that the draught may have the more effect. One or two cups are enough to

-produce intoxication, but of course men will make beasts of themselves

-in the drinking of kava, as well as of any other strong drink. Here it

-is prepared from the green root, and grated up with a rough, round coral

-stone, then squeezed into cups made of the half of a cocoanut shell,

-strained and mixed with water, after which it is ready for imbibation.

-To look at it is like soap suds, and to the taste it is like what I

-should suppose that compound resembled, with an additional admixture of

-rhubarb and magnesia, with a suspicion of strong senna or black draught.

-Indeed I think it is about the nastiest potion conceivable, and no

-wonder the drinker takes an unconscionably long time in swallowing the

-compound, and when finished would almost rather he had never drunk it. I

-was very glad to see most of our own people at school and prayers, but I

-believe some have reserved the ‘nightcap’ till nearer bed-time. When the

-drowsiness is over I believe a craving for food results, and then the

-appetite is appeased even if it be in the middle of the night.

-Certainly, however, a man is never quarrelsome over his cups, but a

-drowsiness and torpor creep over the most quarrelsome and irrepressive

-after the draught. The mode of preparation similar to that practised

-here obtains in all the Northern New Hebrides, as far as I know, but at

-Mota and the Banks’ Islands generally, and in Fiji it is prepared by a

-process of mastication, and is not nearly so intoxicating in its

-effects. At Santa Cruz and in the Solomon Islands the use of the kava is

-unknown, but instead they chew the betel nut.</p>

-

-<p>I had the old men for school to-night, and very interesting it was, old

-blind Sulu (Daniel) was among the number and paid the greatest

-attention, assenting in a marked fashion when anything especially

-pleased him. Poor fellow, he finds wonderful comfort in his religion,

-and is a most regular attendant at all services and at school. He gets

-about wonderfully in spite of his blindness, and does wonderful things

-for a man so totally blind. His patience and cheerfulness under his

-affliction are marvellous, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25">{25}</a></span> he seems to live in hopeful anticipation

-of the time when he shall see his Lord and Master face to face, Whom now

-he sees with the inward eyes of his spirit. He is the only blind man

-here, and I have never seen but one dumb man in these islands.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, 28th July.</i>&mdash;Our people had a great dance last night after

-school which they kept up with great spirit and vigour until an early

-hour this morning. The occasion was the thatching of the new gamal, and

-a great many took part, and never once intermitted their vigour from the

-start to the finish. The dance is called a “Sagoro,” but the chief part

-of it consists of singing with a clapping of hands and peculiar dancing

-in time. It is no easy work, and when I went to see them about the

-middle of the performance the perspiration was running down their

-bodies. Some of the songs are very pretty, but the movement of the dance

-is not particularly graceful or elegant. The women stand in a ring

-outside, and what is called “weluwelu.” This ‘weluing’ consists in

-keeping the feet close together and moving the knees from right to left

-besides joining in the chorus. Their shrill voices sound quite weird

-along with the deep tones of the males, but by no means discordant.

-Native songs have mostly an air sung by one voice, and a chorus joined

-in by all, and these Maewoese are noted for their songs. I did not

-attempt to go to sleep before the performance was over, and the

-consequence was a slight dilatoriness this morning, which as might be

-expected, was not only manifest in my case. However, after morning

-duties here I started with Arthur Huqe and Patrick for Mandurvat,

-passing through the pretty snug little village of Naruru on the way.

-Here we found a man by name ‘Tamaragai’ sitting with his pretty wife and

-child in the neat enclosure in front of his house. All the other

-denizens of the village according to the invariable custom which

-prevails here, had scattered to the four winds. After the dew is off the

-bushes here there is a general exodus from all the villages, and at noon

-it is useless to look for any one at home, for all are abroad. They are

-very industrious people and find perpetual occupation in their gardens

-or elsewhere from morning till evening. They say if they stay at home

-they do nothing but sleep, and a native has not many resources for

-occupying his time indoors. They have a great dread of the dew, for they

-say it engenders elephantiasis. Cases of this unpleasant disease are

-very prevalent here, and it looks very odd to see men and women with

-great swollen legs and feet and monster hands and arms. However, those

-afflicted with it do not seem to suffer so much pain as discomfort.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26">{26}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>We reached our destination after a somewhat weary walk on account of the

-dampness of the roads after the heavy rain in the night. I found a nice

-new school, and the teachers awaiting my arrival. The population is

-small, but the people are well-intentioned and anxious for instruction

-as exhibited by their having built the school entirely themselves. The

-leading spirit there and his wife came to-day and asked for Baptism, and

-desired that they should at once be put under instruction for that

-sacred Rite. This was cheering, and I hope the example thus set will be

-largely followed. Food according to native custom had been prepared, and

-green cocoanuts, and we spent some considerable time with the kind

-hearted people. They have only an inferior teacher, but he is very

-zealous to do his best according to the amount of wisdom and knowledge

-he possesses. They have some sort of daily service and school, but it

-must of necessity be very elementary.</p>

-

-<p>It is etiquette here for the host or someone appointed by him to see you

-off the premises, and this afternoon we were escorted some distance from

-the village by most of the male population, and when at what was looked

-upon as a respectable distance they stepped to one side, a sign that

-that was the last we should have of their society, and calling my name

-the host said, “Iya, go sage,” which is perhaps equal to “There, you go

-up,” to which I was supposed to respond calling his name, “Io, go toga,”

-“All right, you stop.” We then started for home. Arriving at Na Ruru the

-major part of the population were awaiting us, and Anthony the teacher

-with them, fear has driven him and his little flock to take refuge here,

-the third exodus they have made from their homes, and it is hoped that

-at last they will be safe from the ruthless incursions of the heathen

-bushmen. Poor fellow, he had begun to build a substantial new church,

-which was left with the other houses in their precipitate flight, but

-nothing daunted he has begun a third time to collect materials for

-another building. Had they continued however where they were, I doubt if

-they would have been molested. The only excuse for so doing would have

-been that they were friends of the villagers attacked by the bushmen. We

-sat for some time in conversation with the friendly people until the

-sinking sun warned us to be up and moving homewards. After prayers and

-singing, which we always have by an unvariable custom instead of school

-on Wednesday evenings, I received a request from some heathen strangers,

-twenty in number, that they might dance before me. I assented,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">{27}</a></span> and now

-at a late hour they are still at it, and going ahead with such vigour

-that I do not like to stop them. This dance is a piece of policy, for I

-am supposed to give them a handsome gratuity at the end, and the request

-to-night has been for tobacco. I am supposed also to be very liberal on

-these occasions, and certainly they have earned their wages. Their dance

-is very like that of the Tanrig people, but of course the songs are

-somewhat different, and to my taste not so pleasing. It is certainly

-curious that people living really in such close proximity should speak a

-dialect so utterly different that I can scarcely understand a word they

-say. I always assent to their dancing for it brings them here in large

-numbers, and for no ulterior purposes, and I like in every way to

-cultivate all friendly feeling between ourselves and our neighbours.

-Their powers of endurance are wonderful, there were many small boys

-among the dancers to-night, and the hands of my watch pointed to nearly

-2 o’clock a.m. before they finished, and previously they must have

-walked some twelve or fifteen miles over very rugged country. It must be

-considered too that these dances are performed without any intermission,

-and carried through with great vigour to the very end. I believe they

-had contemplated going on till morning, but that would be too terrible.

-Now as I write this they are gone, and the place is as quiet as if I

-were alone the sole inhabitant. I am now quite ready for bed and have

-really been so for hours, but the din and noise would render sleep an

-impossibility. God grant that in time these heathen songs may be changed

-for Christian hymns.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, 29th July.</i>&mdash;My house has been thronged all day with heathen

-visitors, and I have tried to say something about our blessed religion.

-I hope they were duly impressed. They certainly gave me a warm

-invitation to visit them which I shall not be backward to accept, and

-moreover they promised to pick me out two or three boys to go to Norfolk

-Island. One man was most anxious to visit Norfolk Island, and I promised

-him that if he were so minded when the ship came back his wish should be

-gratified. I dare say I was quite safe in my promise, for no doubt he

-will cry off at the last. However, I hope I may get the boys. Everything

-was a matter of astonishment to these poor people, who have rarely if

-ever seen a white man, and a trumpet and pop gun which I gave a small

-boy produced the most unbounded delight. I wish my good friend

-Archdeacon Stock and Miss Kreeft had been here to see what unfeigned joy

-their kind gifts produced. A prettily dressed doll I brought with me,

-and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28">{28}</a></span> which came too, I think, from Wellington, has been the seven day

-wonder during my visit. Yesterday one of the boys threw it down by

-accident, and the frail waxwork fell to pieces. There has been more

-lament over that lifeless toy than over half a dozen ordinary female

-human beings. Agnes, however, this morning disgorged a beautiful doll of

-her own, which she got from a Christmas tree, carefully wrapped in ample

-folds of calico, and the Bushmen I think will never lose the impression

-the revelation of its beauty produced upon them.</p>

-

-<p>How true it is that little things please little minds, and what a boon

-it is that the adage is so true. To us, whom civilization and the

-natural fitness of things have raised so far above nature, it is a

-matter of a striking character to see these heathens on their travels.

-They are burdened with absolutely nothing except a club or bow and

-arrows in their hands. Their dress is but a slight remove from the

-original fig leaf of the garden of Eden, and they carry neither bedding

-nor food. They sleep anywhere and eat what they can get. Their endurance

-in the matter of food too is extraordinary, whether they eat or whether

-they eat not does not seem to affect them, and in this way they beat us

-all to fits on the march. These Bushmen tell me they prefer making a

-journey in rain for it is cooler, and the only change of raiment they

-need at the end is to dry nature’s clothing before a fire. They are a

-very hardy race, I suppose from being inured to hardship all their

-lives.</p>

-

-<p>I missed poor blind Sulu from school to-day, and on enquiring for him

-was told that his pet pig, whose tusks are getting long and very sharp,

-importuned him beyond bearing, and that in kicking out to get rid of him

-the tusk ran into his foot and almost right through it. Poor old fellow,

-I am going by and bye to see what I can do to administer comfort to him.</p>

-

-<p>Arthur too is very much out of sorts, and could not put in an appearance

-at school to-day. For some months he has suffered from lassitude and

-weakness, and has been troubled with nasty sores. Fortunately I have a

-bottle of Hop Bitters with me, the effect of which I am going to try

-with him. Fancy the popularity of this wonderful tonic when it even

-finds its way to these distant islands! I have known it used with very

-beneficial results, and I hope Arthur may improve under its influence

-and strengthening properties.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, July 30th.</i>&mdash;A somewhat idle and prurient curiosity led me with

-some of our people to ‘Uta’ this morning to witness<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29">{29}</a></span> a sort of masked

-ball about which I had heard a great deal, and which was supposed to be

-something quite extraordinary. We started fairly early in the morning,

-and arrived at the place after a long, hot, and fatiguing walk. The

-ceremonies were not perfectly arranged when we got there, and we waited

-a long, weary time. It was mainly through my urging that they began when

-they did, and after all the affair was disappointing.</p>

-

-<p>The initial performance was a song sung by four men to an accompaniment

-beaten on bamboos, but that was by no means impressive. The females

-during this performance advanced and squatted around the performers and

-poor things were almost roasted alive under the blazing rays of the

-midday sun. When the song was finished the maskers rushed out, 17 in

-number with very curious and savage-looking head pieces, and petticoats

-of long sago palm leaves reaching almost to the ground. They presented a

-very weird and uncanny appearance certainly as they danced forth and

-back and uttered their gruff “Ugh, ugh, ugh, ugh.” I do not wonder at

-weak minded females and small children being very terrified of them. The

-head pieces were decided works of art, and very well made. Thirteen were

-almost entirely of the same make and pattern and are called “Rauwe,”

-three were again somewhat of a different shape and fashion called

-“Tamate,” and one very elongated and strangely devised mask also called

-a ‘Tamate’ completed the list. When the dancing was over which was

-called ‘Welu,’ the Rauwes rushed flying about all over the place, and

-the wiser course was to keep out of their way. In former days I believe

-they carried heavy sticks, or even clubs, and struck at anyone who

-failed to get out of their way. Boys and females were the chief objects

-of their attacks, and sometimes considerable injury resulted. Of course

-if any one retaliated and gave blow for blow, a skrimmage of perhaps

-serious and general nature resulted, and ended probably in lives being

-sacrificed.</p>

-

-<p>To-day these rough maskers carried clubs and long handled axes, and

-nothing was feared from them. The tamates were much more quiet and

-danced quietly about like so many kiwis (native New Zealand bird), and

-molested no one. They represent a higher grade in the social scale and

-their intentions are always pacific. For some days after the ceremony

-they are allowed to sail about the country and take what they please in

-the shape of food, &amp;c. if it happens to come in their way, indeed I

-believe the people put it out for them and render every assistance to

-send them away full handed. The tamate mask has no eyehole, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30">{30}</a></span> the

-rauwe head piece has every facility for observation to facilitate its

-hilter skilter rush. The native idea of these things I believe is that

-if anyone dies who has not paid for these masks, he is haunted by them

-in the hereafter, at their places of departed spirits, “Banoi.” The

-tamates protect the disembodied spirits and conduct them safely to their

-final destination in Banoi. Moreover, I believe that those who die

-without propitiating these tamates and rauwes by gifts of pigs and mats

-are transformed into flying foxes, and adorn for ever the courts of an

-ill-fated Banoi. When the ‘welu’ was over, great cakes of cooked food

-were disgorged from their covering of leaves and distributed, the men

-behind a very curious screen called “Bugoro” distributing to men, and

-the women on one side of the village square distributing to women. The

-busy and animated scene was often disturbed by one or more of the rauwes

-rushing wildly about, and the women utterly regardless of food or

-hospitality, tore hilter skilter in screams of terror to some place of

-temporary security. It was now getting late, and as we had a journey

-before us and the performance was virtually over, except the kava

-drinking, we wished our friend good-bye and started for home, getting

-here in time for dinner, both by the time of day and by the condition of

-an appetite which had not been appeased since morning. On the whole I do

-not think the ceremony was at all worth the labour it cost to witness,

-and having seen it once, one would scarcely care to trouble about it a

-second time. However, it has its due effect upon the natives of both

-sexes, and it is looked upon by many as of paramount importance as

-regards both the present time and the future. To the newly initiated it

-gives certain social rights and privileges, but the strict observance

-with many is a thing of the past. It has only to do with the males,

-females may enjoy no special benefit from the practice except to assist

-as ornamental observers, and to bring beast burdens of food for

-distribution. What becomes of their poor souls hereafter is a matter for

-no anxiety or consideration, indeed I suppose the doubt is as to their

-possessing such things as souls at all, so that their final destination

-can only be a matter of supreme indifference and of the most

-insignificant importance. A hazy indefinite belief therefore these

-people have in some hereafter, and they endeavour to make some provision

-for it while they can, but they have no distinct form of religion, nor

-any images to which they offer worship. They have some kind of

-propitiatory sacrifice however of food and shell money, and whatever

-prayer they have is made to the spirits of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31">{31}</a></span> ancestors. Almost

-invariably a dying man calls to his father, and we have frequently

-noticed that when a sick person arrives at this stage of illness, his

-case is very bad indeed, if not hopeless. Yesterday as we were waiting

-at the entrance to the village, the people called my attention to a

-peculiar kind of red grass which had been chewed up, and the refuse

-strewn about all over the path, and they told me that this was done by

-the master of ceremonies to make the visitors take delight and interest

-in the festivities, and to raise the wish in the minds of the

-uninitiated to swell the ranks of those who had already taken the

-initiatory steps in social rank. Like all natives of course these people

-are utterly superstitious, and any little thing of a slightly

-extraordinary nature serves to determine or deter their mode of action.

-There is a certain class of persons among them who read these signs and

-comment upon them, just as the ancient oracles, and these persons are

-consulted in every matter of public or private interest. No one takes a

-journey or engages in any matter without recourse to this oracle, but as

-of old in case of failure, the matter is explained ambiguously.

-Superstition indeed creeps into almost every concern of daily life, and

-its effect upon one would be very wearying and irritating, except of

-course that superior mindedness ought to condescend and bear with such

-human frailties when one considers the education under which these poor

-folks have been brought up from generation to generation. Much, I think,

-of this weak mindedness is passing away under Christian regime, and more

-and more I suppose will it disappear as the day breaks and the shadows

-flee away.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, July 31st.</i>&mdash;A peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed that I

-could not sleep even under a blanket. The people all experienced the

-same cold, and they said it was because of the calmness of the night and

-the heavy dew. Had there been a fire near, I could readily have got up

-to sit over it. The nights here are generally cool, but last night was

-absolutely cold. What shall I do when I go to England? This morning

-however, it is supremely lovely, and the wind in the S.W. for a wonder,

-for the S.E. Trades usually blow nine months out of the twelve. This

-morning I tried a photograph, which I dare say will prove a failure,

-from the extra care I took to prevent all mistakes. I only attempted

-one, but I hope I shall gain courage and experience as I go on and be

-able to reproduce some of these lovely views here. Of course every view

-is shut in more or less by the density of the surrounding bush, but this

-village has a considerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32">{32}</a></span> clearing and a good long vista for a

-photograph. My first attempt was on the church with some natives in the

-foreground, but the view will miss a great deal in a picture, owing to

-the absence of the beautiful colouring. It seems the fashion now-a-days

-here to build houses, and large parties to-day were busy thatching two

-new ones. I went with Patrick, Arthur Huqe and some more of the boys to

-Ruosi where we had a delicious bathe in the river, washed our clothes,

-caught prawns which we cooked very ingeniously in a bamboo. The prawns

-are put into the bamboo with water, and then placed on the fire with the

-orifice slightly elevated. It soon starts boiling, and to prevent the

-bamboo (always a green one) burning through it is constantly turned

-round and round, and in a very short time the prawns come out cooked

-red, and ready for eating. Cooked in salt water they are very nice, and

-they are looked upon as an especial delicacy when eaten with cocoanut

-cream. It is perfectly surprising what a number of dishes these natives

-wot of, and how frequently they vary their menu. Here they are

-especially good cooks, and I like most of their dishes very much. They

-are all slightly indigestible, but that one somehow expects. In most

-Melanesian islands the yam is the staple article of diet, but here the

-taro has the preference, and is planted in larger quantities. The yam

-likes a dry situation, but the kind of taro in common use here

-flourishes in a damp soil, and this is prepared for it by a neat and

-skilful system of irrigation.</p>

-

-<p>While we were sitting there at Ruosi one of the men told me a curious

-custom they have here. I knew him of old to be an habitual and heavy

-kava drinker, now he told me he never drank it and had not for months.

-It appears that persons who enjoy a certain rank can deny the use of

-this beverage to any one they like, and they place a sort of ‘tabu’ over

-the kava bowl, and this tabu is not taken off again until a pig or its

-equivalent is paid. A short time ago kava drinking became so general in

-the school as to impede the working of it, for teachers and scholars

-drank alike. The boys and young men therefore met together and laid

-mutual tabus upon each other, and for some time past very little kava

-has been drunk by those attending, and no one of those on whom the tabu

-was laid has chosen yet to take it off.</p>

-

-<p>This same man told me another curious custom they have with respect to

-revenge. If a man has a grudge against another and he wishes to kill

-him, or if he wishes to kill someone as a set off against someone

-belonging to him having been killed, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33">{33}</a></span> refuses to wash his hands until

-such time as they can be washed with blood. He told me of three

-brothers, Bushmen, who swore to kill a man apiece, the two younger

-brothers have already performed their part of the contract, but the dirt

-is still thick on the hands of the eldest, and he still means murder

-when he can get the convenient opportunity. It does not matter much, I

-believe, who the victim is as long as he has not many friends to

-retaliate. Poor weak inoffensive mortals in this way often lose their

-lives, innocent sacrifices to heathen brutalism and bloodthirstiness. We

-came home in the cool of the most glorious evening, a strange contrast

-in its peace and loveliness to the rage and horror of savage brutalism.

-A quiet evening service and the song of melody seemed more in tune with

-the scene without, and I trust that the Peace of God which passeth all

-understanding may ever keep our hearts and minds in the knowledge and

-love of God and of His Son Jesus Christ.</p>

-

-<p>I gave notice last Sunday of Holy Communion to-morrow, and this evening

-I held a Communicants’ class at which were present the two Arthurs and

-Patrick. Anthony and Samuel are too far away to be able to attend. I

-cannot but esteem it a high privilege and blessing to be enabled to

-receive and dispense the Bread of Life here in this once heathen

-village, and I pray that we may be strengthened and refreshed for our

-work, and show forth God’s praise not only with our lips but in our

-lives, and by giving up ourselves more fully to His service. May the

-time too be hastened when some of these good people may be permitted to

-partake of the visible tokens of redeeming love.</p>

-

-<p>It is now late, and except for the singing of crickets, perfectly still,

-fit prelude, I trust, to a peaceful Sabbath.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, August 1st.</i>&mdash;Another peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed

-that I could not sleep although I had taken care to make proper

-preparations against it. How these poor ill clad, blanketless people

-fare I cannot make out, but no doubt they pile on the wood. It was most

-perfectly calm all through the night, and this morning there was a very

-heavy dew. The wind was blowing from some westerly quarter, and it has

-continued there with some strength all the day. We began our day very

-early with a Celebration of the Holy Communion. The two Arthurs,

-Patrick, and myself made up the quorum. It was a nice, quiet, refreshing

-time, and a fresh and green oasis in a somewhat arid, spiritual desert.

-I think, perhaps, it belongs to the native character and disposition to

-do without certain things which are to us essential,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34">{34}</a></span> and the loss even

-of the Holy Communion is not so serious deprivation to them as to us.

-Native minds, I fancy, adapt themselves too readily to the existing

-condition of things, and because they live in the desert they must never

-even pine for the food and water which is not directly attainable.

-Unless the Holy things of our religion are kept before them in constant

-practice they are too wont to dispense with them, and be content with

-the dry husks such as their neighbours around feed upon. I shall

-therefore try to keep up the regular administration of the Holy

-Communion both for the present strengthening and refreshing of their

-souls, and for a continual remembrance that the reception of it is

-necessary to salvation. Easy native natures are too apt to float along

-with the popular stream, and to be content with dry, dull teaching and

-drier, duller services, and I sometimes long for the time when we shall

-have a more ornate church and appointments, and a more elaborate ritual.

-I firmly believe it would be helpful to the congregation. Now we are too

-content with such things as we have, and they are poor at the best.</p>

-

-<p>After the Celebration we had school. We assembled first in the

-schoolhouse, sang a hymn and I said a Prayer, then divided into classes,

-I myself taking all the old men into the Church, and trying to explain

-the sense of the collect to them. I told them how God had prepared for

-them that love Him such good things as pass man’s understanding, and I

-asked them how we knew that. I told them that God had revealed these

-things to us by His Son Jesus Christ, and He had left His testimony with

-us in His Gospel, and the books which persons chosen by Him had written

-under the influence and direction of His Holy Spirit. Their religion was

-a matter of mere hearsay and conjecture, and had been handed on from

-mouth to mouth, and had grown as it came down after the manner of mere

-verbal testimony. There could be no doubt with us because we have the

-living testimony of Christ’s own words which never pass away. Their

-religion came from nowhere and no one knew of its beginning; of ours at

-all events we were sure. I told them too that in England and other

-countries, where arts and sciences were known and practised far beyond

-anything they could conceive of, there were things so marvellous that

-their understanding could not grasp even the faintest idea of them, and

-how much more marvellous, wonderful, and glorious must the things be

-which God has prepared for such as love Him. Why even here below we see

-great and wonderful and mysterious things which pass the understanding

-of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35">{35}</a></span> world’s wisest minds, and how much more wonderful still must the

-things be which are to be revealed hereafter, when the eye shall be

-purified to see, the ear to hear, and the senses to discern the beauty

-and true glory of them. And what does God, who thus prepares these

-blessed things for us, require of us? Why to love Him above all things.

-Each one of us had some darling idol, to which we offered the devotion

-of our hearts, but it must be torn down and removed if it comes before

-our love to God. And the end of this love was God Himself, and to dwell

-with Him for ever as inheritors of His gracious promises which exceed

-all that we can desire. The old fellows were very attentive, and

-interspersed running remarks, and when I had done I asked them to kneel

-down, and I said the Collect as a Prayer for them. Meanwhile the other

-teachers had school with their scholars in the schoolhouse. The first

-class of boys and girls had to say their Collect by heart, and after

-that they were questioned on its meaning. School was closed with Prayer

-and a Hymn, and then I was ready for breakfast, very dry, uncooked rice

-with sugar and cocoanut cream, and a cup of delicious Norfolk Island

-coffee. Morning Prayer followed in due course before the day got too

-hot, and after this everyone was busy with their Sunday meal for the

-afternoon. The day was as hot as the night was cold, but it was most

-glorious, and all nature seemed to be keeping its Sabbath. The evening

-was perfectly serene and peaceful, a fit termination to a quiet, restful

-day.</p>

-

-<p>In the evening I had the teachers, and after that service at which I

-preached from the gospel of the day, “Except your righteousness exceed

-the righteousness of the Scribes and Pharisees.” They were very

-attentive during my remarks, so I trust I was understood. I told them

-God did not want us merely to come to school and church but He wanted

-the devotion of the heart, it was not outward righteousness He wished

-for, but inward truth and honesty and straightness. The Pharisees were

-very good Churchgoers, but their heart was not right with God, &amp;c., &amp;c.</p>

-

-<p>After Service we had singing which they always enjoy, and even now I

-hear their voices in the School house singing “There’s a friend for

-little children.” I had intended to have made an excursion to the

-neighbouring villages to-day but I could not manage the time, the day

-having gone so rapidly. Now it is very cool and betokens another cold

-night but Oh! how calm and peaceful!<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36">{36}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, August 2nd.</i>&mdash;Another peculiarly cold night ushered in a most

-glorious day. A very heavy dew lay all round, and until the sun was

-quite high in the heavens the cold was very perceptible, and a flannel

-coat was very agreeable. I took two photographs early and trust they are

-good, but it would be very hard to reproduce the original so lovely as

-it appeared in the morning light. The scene too was animated with the

-cheery voices of the people, the crowing of the cocks, the merry

-laughter of the boys, and even the squealing of the pigs as they

-followed their owners for their morning food, lent additional and

-characteristic charm to the occasion. All this one cannot photograph,

-but it is necessary to suppose all this to give an idea of the village

-as it is on these glorious mornings. Here we are several hundred feet

-above the sea level, and a good way inland so that a pleasant day breeze

-always fans the air, and keeps the place gratefully cool under cover of

-a roof, or in the shade. I believe one could live here quite comfortably

-all the year round, and for myself I never feel better than I do here.

-There is such a freedom too about life here that one can carry a light

-heart and a contented mind in a healthy body. To-day almost without

-exception the people are off to the beach to windward. At this time of

-year the tides are very low, and leave the reefs almost entirely

-uncovered. Fish and crabs and other sea oddities are therefore left

-exposed, and the first named are shot by the men in the pools, and the

-women collect the latter, which are looked upon as choice articles of

-diet. Just now I am left quite solitary, but I have just dismissed a

-bevy of ladies who came to see the present seven days wonder, my

-magnetic fish. They cannot fathom the mystery at all why when one point

-of the fishing rod as they call it, is presented to the fish they

-eagerly rush at it, and why when the other they rapidly retire. They

-solve the problem by saying it is a “Wui,” (spirit). And it must seem

-strange to them as all our belongings must being of an order of art, so

-far removed from their conceptions or achievements. A kerosene lamp to

-this day is a marvel to them, and the manipulation equally mysterious,

-why it should flare up when turned one way, and why it should die when

-turned the other. One old woman who has been very sick and up to-day for

-the first time, came with the crowd and greeted me in the most maternal

-manner, grasping my hand in both her own, and calling me “Baua,” an

-obsolete word now, but belonging to a district called “Loqala” which was

-utterly devastated years ago by enemies among whom were these very

-people of Tanrig. This<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37">{37}</a></span> old lady and her son Samuel, now my head teacher

-at Tasmouri, are the sole survivors I believe, and she retains the

-expression or appelation by which a grandmother greets her grandson.</p>

-

-<p>I brought a box of refuse toys from Norfolk Island to which our boys and

-girls there have grown superior, and the exhibition and distribution of

-them created quite a furore. One would never suppose in these days of

-superior enlightenment that any people could be found simple enough to

-go into ecstacies over a halfpenny toy, but these women and children

-have gone off perfectly enraptured with their new possessions, and I

-dare say they will treasure them up for many a day and find pleasure in

-the contemplation and exhibition of them. One poor young mother has just

-brought in great distress her infant child which she says is suffering

-from a pain in its side, and the only remedy I can conceive of is a dose

-of castor oil. The father comes around to my side of the table, and

-whispers that it has not been ‘washed’ yet, meaning that it has not been

-Baptized, and that it has no name. While writing this Samuel appeared

-with another friend from Tasmouri, and I went with them to the beach

-where all the population had previously gone. Our path lay through the

-carefully and skilfully irrigated taro fields, and of course it was very

-bad in some places. Crossing one place I made a false step and went up

-to my knees, it was a fitting judgment on my pride for I refused the

-assistance of a stalwart follower’s back, which had borne me dry and

-safely over two such places before. I presented a strangely harlequin

-appearance with white flannel trowsers above the knee, and black mud

-gaiters below. However appearances are easily pardoned here, and the

-only grief was at my own discomfort. The people of course all said it

-was because the roads were so bad, but that was too palpable a truism,

-and was no relief to my feelings. Bootless and trowserless, these paddy

-paths make no difference to them, and mud has not the same appearance on

-a black skin. However we went to the sea-shore and saw the sport which

-was not much. One very large fish was caught with a hook and line, and

-the women had great horse-loads of shell fish, but generally the bowmen

-came off badly. The tide was out to the utmost limit of the reef, and

-quite half-a-mile from the shore the rocks were entirely exposed. Of

-course there was some very good reason for the failure and ill luck, and

-I was somewhat surprised to hear the wind blamed. It so happened that

-what of that element there was, was off shore, but if it had been only

-blowing in shore<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">{38}</a></span> it would have driven in the fish. However there was

-disappointment depicted on every countenance, and there was some

-trifling relief to the feelings in putting the blame on the wind.

-Probably if the wind is all right to-morrow something else will be

-wrong, and so on. What a wonderful place in the English language those

-two little words ‘if’ and ‘but’ have, and how they qualify almost every

-action of mankind, and how usually are they made use of in

-self-extenuation. How scarcely possible is it to describe a single

-character without the use of one or other of them! He would be a very

-nice fellow ‘if.’ She would be an estimable woman ‘but.’ On our homeward

-road I marched boldly through mud and water taking pride I suppose in

-revenging myself, and showing my unmentionables that now the pink of

-their whiteness was off, they might just as well be a little more dirty.

-However, a refreshing bath was some return for my chagrin and

-discomfort, and I hastened home for a clean change. The cooks brought me

-two deliciously cooked fish for dinner, and were very disappointed when

-I sent them back untasted. I am never very partial to fish, and in these

-latitudes my digestive organs rebel even against the smell of them.

-However, the boys very soon picked the bones, and perhaps were not sorry

-that I had not partaken. There is great feasting going on to-night with

-both sexes, the men with their fish supper and the women with

-shell-fish.</p>

-

-<p>Everywhere to-day we saw the bush lit up with the bright red “Rarava,” a

-gorgeous tree, which flowers at this time of the year, and gives its

-name to the winter season. The other season is called “Magoto” from a

-reed of that name which shoots in spring, and these are the only native

-seasons of the year. There does not seem to be however any very marked

-distinction or peculiar line of demarcation between summer and winter as

-regards the heat and cold, but in fact it does seem to be warmer in the

-“Magoto” and cooler in the “Rarava.” To an Englishman however it is

-always hot, and he does not detect any material difference. One shivers

-now to think of ice and snow and of such concomitants of the winter

-season, for here of course they are absolutely unknown.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, August 3rd.</i>&mdash;It gets somewhat monotonous to write every day

-of cold nights, but this last one has been no exception. The cold is so

-peculiar and penetrating that clad in flannel from head to foot, and

-covered with a blanket and rug, I failed to keep it out, and slept very

-badly in consequence. When I did sleep, too, I was troubled with dreams

-and fancied myself in Ireland<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39">{39}</a></span> hunted by ‘Moonlighters.’ I had proposed

-to go to a very distant district called “Golvanua” to-day, but at the

-eleventh hour my escort cried off and I could not go alone. I cannot

-quite say why it is, but natives when they are about to make an

-excursion almost invariably start on the spur of the moment without

-making any previous appointment, or specifying any distinct time.

-Whether they wish to elude ‘Fate’ and deprive it of the chance of being

-unpropitious by stealing a march, or whether the fear of material foes

-induces them to do these things secretly so that they may not be

-cognizant of their movements, or what it is I do not know, but fact it

-is that if you want to make a journey, you must abide the native’s time

-and conveniences for they will seldom assent to yours if premeditated or

-prearranged.</p>

-

-<p>I quite expect that some fine morning, before I am out of bed perhaps,

-my escort will be awaiting me outside my door, and anxiously and

-impatiently desiring to start at once. Natives make no preparation for a

-journey, they have no impedimenta of travel, and lightly clad, and

-lightly weighted, they are ready at any moment to start, and a long or

-short stay is all the same to them. They want no canteens or bedding or

-change of clothing, and they can lay their heads down in any spot, and

-rest and refresh themselves, and be ready for any emergency. They do not

-even need as much as a tooth brush and pair of slippers for their

-excursions, and marvel at our wanting so much to them unnecessary

-luggage. I believe I should make many more journeys, if I could

-accomplish them with so little inconvenience and discomfort.</p>

-

-<p>Samuel went back this morning, and I am to go to Tasmouri on Friday for

-a week. He gives a very good account of his work there and I am anxious

-to see and judge for myself. The whole Community there are Baptized, and

-most exemplary Christians they are. They are very nice lively

-good-natured people too, but are not very numerous. Indeed these Maewo

-villages have dwindled down to very few inhabitants, from one cause and

-another, and a large measure of the decrease is owing to the wide spread

-practice of infanticide. Now in this district that practice, thank God,

-is checked and the population is again on the increase. Moses who was

-here with Samuel to-day asked me to Baptize while at Tasmouri his fourth

-child, three boys of his are already Baptized, and such mothers as his

-wife are a blessing to the race. Here two mothers have three children

-apiece, and several have two. I wish however the mothers would bring up<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40">{40}</a></span>

-their children a little better, they are the perfect slaves of their

-offspring, and give into them in everything. Talk about spoilt children,

-I have to roar every day of my life to some little urchin, screaming his

-lungs out because his mother does not do at once what he wants. The

-mother beats at one moment and coaxes at another, and the child grows up

-anyhow, a burden to himself and a nuisance to his neighbours. I want a

-good superior minded and well educated mother here to give some

-practical advice. Arthur’s wife is but a child herself, and as devoid of

-gumption as the rest of them. Poor people, they do not know what trouble

-and misery they entail upon themselves and their children from a want of

-a little firmness, and well timed correction.</p>

-

-<p>It has been a most glorious day, and this morning I accepted an

-invitation from the boys to go to ‘Kerepei.’ The tide was very low and

-many of the people had preceded us, and were busy searching the reef and

-rocks for the much prized products of the sea shore. The little fellows

-got me most deliciously sweet green cocoanuts, and while I was bathing

-caught me a nice lot of prawns for my tea. Days spent in this way are

-very pleasant, for we get to know each other all the better, and I can

-exercise a continual supervision over their actions. I generally carry a

-paper or portable volume with me, and to-day the Church Times was my

-companion. The evening was most glorious and peaceful, but when the sun

-went down peculiarly cold. Now as I write I have a blazing fire in my

-house, and I feel the comfort of it. The poor ill clad people are

-shivering all around, and are off to their several domiciles to try and

-get some heat. The attendance at school to-night was worse than I have

-known it yet, and the cold was said to be the reason of it.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, August 4th.</i>&mdash;There seems a perfect rage for fishing just

-now, when the exceptionally low tides afford such advantages for the

-pursuit. School was no sooner over to-day, than there was a general

-exodus seaward of all the able bodied inhabitants of the place. They

-talk to-day of trying the “Tasigoro” to see what it yields. This

-Tasigoro is a tabu’d enclosure of so much of the reef as those who make

-it choose, and it is made in this way&mdash;one, two, three or indeed any

-number of people who have reached the rank of “welu” kill a certain kind

-of pig, and for ten days the killer or killers are supposed to subsist

-on pig’s flesh, at the end of ten days they go to the beach, and mark

-off the chosen portion of the beach with a long bamboo at either end,

-like a base for football, but on a somewhat larger<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">{41}</a></span> scale, and tie on to

-the bamboo the leaf of a certain palm tree; the person or persons then

-bathe in that part of the sea, and the juice of the pig’s flesh which

-they have eaten, is supposed to have the effect of sanctifying in some

-way the place, and no one fishes within the enclosure until the “welus”

-choose to take the “tabu” off. There is a talk of doing this to-day, and

-the whole population turns out to it. Of course the whole length and

-breadth of the reef during these low tides is left high and dry, and the

-fish have wisdom enough to retire as the tide goes out, but some are

-dilatory like Lot in his flight from Sodom, and some stop to have a look

-back like his wife, these are therefore left behind in the several pools

-that are everywhere dotted about of more or less depth. Some fish again

-which feed upon the reef have natural channels of escape into deep

-water, but these are very skilfully guarded by the natives with large

-nets, and the fish are captured while making a rush to get out into the

-open sea. All these channels are carefully guarded, and a very large

-number of fish shut in from escape on the more or less exposed reef. The

-leaves of a certain shrub are used for the purpose of stupifying the

-fish in the deeper pools, and they are easily caught when under the

-influence of the stupification. Others again are shot with bows and

-arrows, others speared, others caught by hand until at times the haul

-numbers several thousands, of all sorts, sizes and descriptions. After

-this great catch of course there is much feasting and rejoicing, and

-according to their own old heathen superstitious ideas there is

-something sacred in the fish so caught. ‘Kava’ is largely drunk on these

-occasions and the festivities are prolonged for many days. After my

-experience the other day I did not care to go again, and followed Arthur

-and some others to ‘Rarava,’ whither I took my photographic camera, and

-shot off a most beautiful picture in nature. I hope it may prove so in

-development.</p>

-

-<p>William, one of the men, lit a fire and soon produced some fine large

-bread-fruit which were placed on the embers, and deftly turned over and

-over so as to be properly cooked all round. The result was that in about

-a quarter of an hour I was engaged upon a smoking hot loaf of bread,

-which eaten with scraped cocoa-nut is very nice indeed. Breadfruit is

-too much like boiled dough to be really very nice, but to me it is very

-palatable food. The black outside coating peels off very readily when

-well cooked, and leaves a round puddingy sort of compound to be eaten.

-Inside are seeds somewhat bigger than a marble, not unlike<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42">{42}</a></span> filberts,

-and these are generally eaten with the breadfruit, the hard outside husk

-easily peeling off, and leaving a large bean like kernel. “Duwu”

-prepared his in quite a new way to me. Having pealed off the outside

-crust caused by the cooking, he wrapped the whole fruit up in the long

-dracæna leaves, and tied up the neck very carefully. He then took a

-small bamboo, and beat the breadfruit into a soft pulp, giving it a few

-final bangs on the ground, the leaves were opened, and the pudding

-turned out on leaves resembling very much a squash, and then cut up like

-a vegetable marrow into slices and eaten with scraped cocoanut. This I

-think was nicer than the bare breadfruit. We were a little party of

-twelve of both sexes, and all shared alike, men and women eating

-together in the most friendly manner, and not only so but the men did

-the cooking and helped the women in the nicest way. I could not help

-thinking what a contrast it was to years gone by. There we were sitting

-every man under his own vine and under his own fig, with no apparent

-fear or apprehension of evil, and the most perfect harmony of the two

-sexes existing among us. Here you scarcely ever now see the husband

-without the wife, and where you see the wife you may know the husband is

-not far off. Amina and Eliza kindly got me some land crabs which I

-enjoyed for tea. These and prawns are readily obtainable, and make a

-nice occasional change.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, August 5th.</i>&mdash;A strong Trade wind blowing fresh all night,

-and this morning it is still very gusty and disagreeable.</p>

-

-<p>To-morrow there is another house to be thatched, and those who are not

-crazed about fishing are off getting food. From the commencement to the

-finish, house building here is a matter of great importance. There are

-four kinds of houses, of which the ‘gamal’ is the chief. This is the

-men’s club, and the young men’s sleeping quarters. Within its walls the

-women may not enter, and there is a certain circumscribed boundary into

-which they may not trespass. All food cooked in the ‘gamal’ is partaken

-of by the men only, and a woman may not eat of it under any

-consideration. ‘Kava’ is prepared and drunk there also, and of this a

-woman may not drink. Within the gamal are various ovens according to the

-several degrees of rank, and those of the same grade eat out of one

-oven, and the rules of precedence are strictly adhered to. Fire used

-within the gamal may not be used in a private house. After a certain age

-all boys are supposed to live in the gamal, and that becomes their

-proper quarters until<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">{43}</a></span> they marry and build houses of their own. Any man

-may sleep in the gamal and eat food there.</p>

-

-<p>The next house in importance is the “ima” or married man’s residence.

-Within this house the cooking of the food for the family is done, and

-the married couples live. This house is known from the rest, by having

-the front and back end worked with cane, and more pains are expended on

-the building of it. The third kind of house is the “vale,” within which

-there is no fire place for cooking, and this is used mostly as the

-apartments of the young females before marriage, and for stowing any

-treasures which may be inconvenient in the “ima.” The front and end of

-the ‘vale’ are made only of bamboos. A fourth kind of house is the “ima

-somu” (the Bank). In this house is kept the treasures of the village,

-and it is always known by a peculiarly neat front of reeds, and by a

-very curious sort of pallisade of reeds placed in a sort of semicircle

-around the front door. Within this house a fire is kept continually

-burning night and day, and the reason for this is that the most prized

-and valuable article of barter here is the smoked mat, and the blacker

-it can be smoked the more does it increase in value. As may be supposed,

-within these houses a most weird and odd sight presents itself. The

-gross darkness being only relieved by the glowing embers of the undying

-fire, the fresh black mats look like so many great flying foxes

-suspended over it.</p>

-

-<p>The importance of the several houses is therefore in this order, the

-“gamal,” “ima,” “vale,” and “ima somu.” When a building is finished

-there is always a great ceremony ranging in importance according to the

-description of the house. For the gamal the ‘house warming’ is a matter

-of much ceremonial called “nasu,” and a man is supposed to “nasu gamal”

-with a pig at least. Any live stock may be slaughtered in “nasu ima,”

-and fowls, or if possible fish, are mostly in requisition. Plain food

-only is required for the two latter, but all the same there must be some

-house warming, or the building would not be properly finished. The house

-I occupy is an “ima,” and being a proprietor of many pigs, I am going to

-add to the dignity and full completion of my residence, by slaughtering

-two innocent animals next Thursday (D.V.) and the school will get a

-general holiday and a pleasant evening. I do this partly because I want

-to give the boys some slight return for the pains they have been at in

-building the house, to get a piece of pork myself, and to give a holiday

-in honour of my return among them. They say they must dig an oven

-within<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44">{44}</a></span> the ‘ima’ to make the thing complete, but to this I object.

-To-morrow, all being well, I go to Tasmouri.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, August 6th.</i>&mdash;Morning Prayer, school and breakfast at Tanoriki,

-and then started with three others for Tasmouri. It was a most lovely

-day, and a fresh Trade wind fanned the air and kept the paths pleasantly

-cool. Beneath the deep, dark shade of the native forest, the strong

-burning heat of the morning sun was not oppressive, and the roads and

-bush were fortunately very dry. However, any exertion in this climate

-induces perspiration, and that one expects.</p>

-

-<p>The native guide swung along at a rapid pace, and we were not long in

-reaching “Uta,” where we rested for some time in the neat little school,

-and Takele regaled us with green cocoanuts, which were very acceptable.

-Poor Takele, who has only one enlightened friend to help him, finds a

-difficulty in getting his scholars together on a week day, and no

-wonder, as I suppose he knows very little more than they do themselves,

-and it is irksome to old people to spell over their A.B.C. day after

-day, and get no oral instruction. It is far more in consonance with

-their feelings and habits to go out for the day, either to the seashore

-or to their gardens, than to be trammelled with the cares and labour of

-school. On Sundays he says they turn up in large numbers, and generally

-some one goes to them from Tanoriki. I promised him a visit for Sunday

-week, all being well, and I shall try to keep my promise, for he

-deserves all the help we can extend to him. He has never been away, is a

-man now of middle age, and entirely self-taught. He is a most excellent,

-conscientious man, and tries to do all he can for his people, according

-to his limited amount of knowledge.</p>

-

-<p>He built the school himself and keeps it in most extraordinary order. In

-many cases he has acted as a deterrent on his countrymen, when they have

-proposed some heathen act which he has not thought to be within the

-bounds of strict rectitude, and I believe he tries to lead a good life

-as far as he knows. As far as morality goes, I do not think anyone would

-venture to bring an accusation against him. I have always intended to

-Baptize him, and perhaps this year I may put my intentions into effect.

-Leaving “Uta” we still marched on in single file, till we reached the

-brow of the cliff down which, of necessity, we had to descend, Tasmouri

-being on the other side of the island to windward. A striking and broad

-prospect greeted us from the hill top, and we saw besides Meralava and

-the wide expanse of ocean before us, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45">{45}</a></span> grand fertile plain belonging

-to the Tasmouri district, and the church and school visible in the far

-distance. At the foot of the steep cliff our way lay through the

-beautifully irrigated taro beds, and of course I had to pick my way to

-prevent being buried in mud. Leaving the gardens, we had a grand stretch

-of level country before us, and before long we came upon a merry party

-of Tasmouri people awaiting our arrival, some distance from their

-village. Being tired and hungry I pushed on ahead with some of the boys,

-and enjoyed a refreshing bathe and change of garments. Then came what I

-suppose I must dignify by the name of dinner, mostly native food, but

-eaten with the best sauce was as good as the best Lord Mayor’s feast,

-and I dare say as digestible. The Bishop’s kind present was most useful,

-and the canteen contained every article requisite for out of the way

-travellers. After the meal the people came home, and before long we had

-Evensong. I was quite surprised at the heartiness of the responses, the

-fluency of the reading, and the general brightness of the singing and

-service.</p>

-

-<p>The women sang out lustily with a good courage, and although a trifle

-slow the result was pleasing on the whole. With a little teaching the

-singing and service will be very nice. I find I have Baptized forty-six

-people here, two of whom have died, two have gone away in a labour

-vessel, and forty-two still remain. They are a very nice, genuine,

-exemplary community, and Samuel has kept them well together. They seem

-to me beyond the Tanrigese in point of mental ability, and readily take

-in fresh ideas. One or two of the young men are very superior fellows.

-This evening I felt the warmth of this place, by comparison with Tanrig,

-and for the first time for the year I have slept without any kind of

-covering. The reed bed I found somewhat hard, but one cannot expect

-everything, and is content with such things as one has. The condition of

-the people morally, socially and spiritually, simply reconcile one to

-any amount of bodily inconvenience. I can thank God and take courage.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, August 7th.</i>&mdash;Most beautiful morning at Tasmouri. After

-Prayers and breakfast we all went for a picnic to a pretty place called

-“Ron̈o nawo” meaning the sound of the surf, but why I don’t know. It is

-curious how the Mota word has got in here “nawo.” The word here for surf

-is “togovi” but nawo comes probably from Meralava. We all turned out for

-the holiday, men, women and children. The women did the cooking while

-the men and boys amused themselves in various ways, fishing,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">{46}</a></span> shooting,

-bathing or playing an animated game called “buka,” something between

-“prisoner’s base” and the old game of “tig.” Some of the young men

-amused themselves by shooting at a mark about thirty or forty yards

-distant. They made such good shooting at that distance, that I should be

-very sorry to give them a shot at me with a good well balanced poisoned

-arrow. At short distances of course they make very good work, and in

-their own skirmishes they don’t want to make long shots. I dare say by

-the side of a good English archer they would cut a sorry figure at a

-long shot, but for their own purposes they are excellent shots, and

-custom of course engenders skill. Their arrows are unfeathered, and I

-don’t expect will carry as true as the better made English arrow. Their

-bows are very strong and durable, being made curiously enough from a

-tree called the “Aru” (she oak). I spent my day pleasantly enough in

-reading and making pencil notes. Crabs and breadfruit was my luncheon,

-and a green cocoanut. The whole party assembled in the course of the

-afternoon, and the ovens were opened and their plentiful supply of food

-disgorged. I said grace and then there was a general fall to. The meal

-over we made preparation for a start homewards which we reached some

-time before sunset. On the way home the boys showed me in the water

-course a cocoanut tree which time had failed to rot or destroy, and the

-story according to native ideas was that this same tree was coexistant

-with the upheaval of the island, and had never changed, generation after

-generation handing on the fact of its existence and whereabouts.</p>

-

-<p>In the evening we had Prayers in the church and a nice hearty Service.

-Poor “Samuel” the head teacher is sick and has not been able to be with

-us to-day. I gave a short address at Evensong explanatory mostly of

-to-morrow’s programme. It is very warm here and one’s thoughts either

-cease to flow or one’s hand to write, anyhow I find a difficulty in

-inducing energy to write or my brain to cogitate.</p>

-

-<p>Except for the perpetual boom and surge of the restless ocean all is

-still and peaceful here at present.</p>

-

-<p>On Saturdays following the general and long prevailing custom of the

-Mission we have a whole holiday, and consequently this morning we had

-only the shortened form of Mattins such as we use here. Breakfast

-followed consisting of yam scraped and cooked in leaves, and the

-particular kind presented for my discussion this morning is called

-“laqan̈a.” The natives are great cooks and have a very long list of

-various dishes on their menu.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47">{47}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>There are three principal modes of cooking food, however, such as yams

-and taro, (1) Roasted on the embers and the outside skin carefully

-scraped off as it gets hardened, this is called “tutunu,” (2) scraped on

-the rough edge of the tree fern, then wrapped in leaves like a large

-pudding and cooked in the hot stones, this is termed “loko,” (3) roasted

-on the fire until cooked, then beaten on a large wooden dish until as

-thin about as biscuit pastry, and cocoanut cream poured over, this is

-named “lutu.” The first two are the most common preparations, and the

-first perhaps most generally in use.</p>

-

-<p>The different kinds of “loko and lutu” are wonderful, and it would

-puzzle any one but a skilled native cook, to make any distinct varieties

-of dishes out of such unpromising materials.</p>

-

-<p>Both sexes are good cooks, and no wonder, as from the time they are able

-properly to run about, until the infirmities of old age creep on they

-are accustomed to shift for themselves. An English boy would fare very

-badly if he had to cook his own dinner, and provide for his own wants as

-early as some of these native children. But education and habit are

-everything, the latter of course is second nature.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, August 8th.</i>&mdash;At Tasmouri. Beautiful but very warm morning.

-After breakfast we had Sunday School, at which every member of the

-village population was present. I was much pleased with the way four or

-five classes repeated by heart their catechism, and the collect for the

-week, and answered general questions on the subject. It showed one that

-school was a serious and important business both with teacher and pupil.

-We went from the school into church, where we had full Morning Service

-but without any Sermon. Service over, I was followed by the whole male

-population to Tasmate. The day was very hot, and we had been obliged to

-choose the hottest part of it for our walk. However we tumbled over the

-same creepers, knocked our heads against the same branches, brushed

-against the same bristly bushes, that the natives of Maewo have done

-ever since they peopled the island. No one ever thinks of trying to

-improve his own or his neighbour’s ways, and from being accustomed so

-long to the present condition of the paths, they are quite content to

-experience the discomfort for ever and aye, they were good enough for

-their own forefathers, why should not they be good enough for them.

-Being head and shoulders taller than most of our natives, I suffered

-untold agonies mentally and physically, but I submit to the necessity,

-knowing that unless I commence to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48">{48}</a></span> improve matters myself, I may expect

-the same discomforts to the end of the chapter. My helmet on more than

-one occasion has saved my head very severe concussions, and to be

-bonnetted is no uncommon occurence. However, on we swung, I being

-thankful that the road was so level as it was, and at length arrived at

-Tasmate more fit to be comforted than to think of administering comfort

-to others. They have built a nice little school here, and by the way

-they turned up at the subsequent service it was manifest that they knew

-the use of it. Augmented by the Tasmouri people the little place was

-crowded to its fullest capabilities, and the heat and flies were not

-such as one would choose for ordinary enjoyment, but personal comforts

-with Missionaries are a secondary consideration. We had a nice service,

-and I gave a somewhat long address in spite of inconveniences, and when

-it was over I retired to the cool refreshing shade by the sea shore, and

-all at once everyone began to feel the heat and followed me there.

-However, our conversation ran in an edifying course, and I hope some

-were profited by it. The return home was the next consideration, and I

-must say it seemed formidable for a Sunday afternoon. We reached a place

-called “Na Seu,” and there I could not resist a bathe in the natural

-bathing place, under such a deliciously cool shoot of water. We came

-home by a new route which was said to be much shorter, but it turned out

-to be quite as long I think, and not nearly so pleasant walking.</p>

-

-<p>At “Uta riki,” where I formerly remember a good population, one man and

-a small child are the only surviving remnant. The rest are all scattered

-or dead. We asked him to come to Tasmouri and live there, but he would

-not consent on the spur of the moment. His son and relations left are

-mostly there. In matter of wives he has been a regular Blue Beard, and

-the last of a long list has just died, and left him a widower.</p>

-

-<p>We arrived in due course at Tasmouri, and after dinner all together,

-which the women had provided in our absence, we had Evensong, a very

-nice service with a Sermon from me. The women proposed singing

-afterwards, and this went on till late. At the Evening Service I

-Baptized the infant daughter of Moses, naming her Anika. Moses, wife,

-and four children are now a Christian family. His care of, and love for,

-his children gave me good food for my discourse afterwards, as did the

-case of ‘Dimeli’ and the remnant of his people migrating from the place

-where many had died, to a place where all were going to keep well and

-live, with the result that all have died with the exception of himself.

-There was no hope of life apart from God.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49">{49}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, August 9th.</i>&mdash;Very hot, oppressive day, and I was so ill

-throughout I did little or nothing. My efforts to get cool were utterly

-abortive. Great Christening festivities were going on all day. The

-fatted pig was killed and eaten with much thankfulness and rejoicing in

-the evening. At Evensong I screwed my courage up to a Sermon which was

-better listened to than delivered. Afterwards there was a dance.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, August 10th.</i>&mdash;I saw this morning a beardless youth, who is

-the tenth husband of a woman in the district. One of her sons is a

-full-gown man at Tasmouri, himself married many years. There is no

-accounting for taste, but on which side the love or taste is I do not

-know. Beauty of face and figure have little weight generally with

-natives, they think more of utility and position. They seem to me to

-have no idea of the sublime and beautiful either in woman or in nature

-according to our ideas, and in a very matter of fact way look to the

-practical side of the business. Polygamy here is the exception, and

-there is not so large a percentage of females as is found in some of the

-islands. However, if they are all as easily satisfied as the youth

-mentioned above, young girls will be at a premium. There is one man here

-at Tasmouri who has two wives, and he steadily refuses to divorce one or

-the other with a view to Baptism, and according to our present practice

-in the administration of that Holy Rite, we insist on monogamy.

-Strangely enough the son of this very man had five wives, four of whom

-he divorced in order to be Baptized. All the four divorced are now

-married and Baptized at Tasmouri.</p>

-

-<p>It was so intolerably hot in the village, I proposed that we should go

-to Ron̈onawo, as I was going to Tasmate to sleep and that was about a

-half-way house. All the population followed me, and there we cooked our

-dinner and rested. After the meal we had a short service there on the

-beach which was very quiet and solemn, and then with most of the men I

-turned my steps towards Tasmate, Samuel and a few others, with the women

-going back to Tasmouri. There was a great shaking of hands, some

-profusion of tears among the women, and a great deal of Christian

-harmony between us all.</p>

-

-<p>Arriving at Tasmate we found another dinner awaiting us, and a hearty

-welcome. We had Prayers after dinner with a sermon from myself, in which

-I contrasted the present visit with those they must remember to have

-known in heathen days. Then the hands were full, but the heart was

-empty, now the heart was full of love and the hands carried no bow and

-arrows. We had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">{50}</a></span> great Hymn singing afterwards, and the men sat and

-talked outside about the present and the past. There are a few hearts

-here I can see being prepared for the good seed which may God sow in His

-good time, quickly if it may be, and water the plant of grace with the

-dew of His Holy Spirit.</p>

-

-<p>We were rather late before we thought of retiring, and I was not sorry

-at length when it was proposed, for without chair or seat, except a

-native tree, there was no great pleasure in sitting.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, August 11th.</i>&mdash;Spent a very uncomfortable night at Tasmate.

-The kind people had done all they could to make me comfortable, but I

-found the bed very hard, the sleeping quarters very rough, the fleas in

-large numbers, and the mosquitos very lively. However, I have been more

-uncomfortable, and I was not unthankful to be brought safely to the

-beginning of another day. A place was named to me last evening called

-“Beitabu,” as being a most choice spot for a bathe, and it was said to

-be near at hand. Having not many toilet requisites with me, I proposed

-to one “Lulu” a denizen of the place to pilot me there. I was very

-“breakfasty” and most unrefreshed, but away we started for “Beitabu.” It

-was a fearful grind to get there, and the distance seemed to me

-interminable. Of course being well watered there were irrigated taro

-beds, and I slipped off a bank clean into the mud. Yet when the spot was

-reached it made up for all difficulties and distresses and proved to be

-a most marvellous natural bath, a large, clear, deep pool, with water

-pouring in from a charming little waterfall, and flowing out rapidly

-over the rocks below. I do not know when I have enjoyed a bath more, or

-when water had a more invigorating and refreshing effect on me.

-Fortunately my host had what breakfast there was ready for me when I got

-back, and in my state of exhaustion it did not much matter what it was.

-After breakfast we had Morning Prayer with a short address from me

-instead of school. Not long after “sail oh!” was cried and my boat

-appeared to bring me back here to Tanrig, and heartily glad am I to be

-back here again in comparative comfort. We had a pleasant but rather

-heavy row up the coast, our party on board numbering twenty-eight.

-Fortunately the sea was very smooth, and not much wind, or probably we

-should not have fared so well. All my Tasmouri friends came on with me

-and are spending the night. All were well here and the place looked much

-as usual. One little baby had died unbaptized during my absence, a

-matter of great regret to everybody, and very much so to me. I had known

-of the child’s illness, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51">{51}</a></span> it was better before I left. I had

-therefore postponed its Baptism until I could make it convenient to

-Baptize three or four more infants now waiting for the Rite.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, August 12th.</i>&mdash;General holiday. Arthur took occasion to “nasu

-ima” at the same time with me, and the great event of two house warmings

-drew together a large concourse of people. Fire was lit in my house, and

-part of a pig and two fowls were cooked in the oven. It is the custom

-here to have as many kinds of flesh as possible on these occasions, and

-as many kinds of vegetables, representing I suppose all the different

-sorts of food that will hereafter be cooked therein. There has been

-great preparation for this day, and great excitement to-day. Every

-household added its mite to the feast, and in the evening when the feast

-was spread out there was a grand display. Everyone had huge pieces of

-yam and taro and banana cake, and a large piece of fish, fowl and pork.

-The pork takes precedence, but the fish costs the greatest pains in

-provision, not being so easily within their reach or means of

-acquisition. Fish in these countries do not seem to take hook and bait

-readily, and the poor natives have to resort to all manner of odd

-expedients to secure them. There were many strangers here, and quite 150

-people or more must have partaken. The pork was very nice and most

-beautifully cooked in the native oven. The females presided over the

-cutting up, but Arthur as co-host with myself gave directions as master

-of the feast. He gave a sigh of relief when he came into my house after

-it was all over, and said “there, what a poor return for so much

-labour.” That always strikes me as the most pitiable thing about a

-feast, it is all over in the twinkling of an eye, and what have you for

-your pains?</p>

-

-<p>This evening there is a great dance, a vast crowd of people has already

-congregated, and it is to go on till morning light. It is done as a

-special compliment to myself, and I do not like to stop them. The

-patient endurance of some of the dancers is wonderful. From the start to

-the finish, say from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m., they never leave the ranks of the

-dance but keep at it all the time, singing, clapping the hands and

-dancing. There is no rest for a good supper at midnight, but the dance

-is carried right through to the bitter end. I am going to attempt sleep,

-but I fear the noise will prove too much for me. They have certainly a

-most beautiful night for their dance, but I should be sorry to be one of

-the performers. The songs are certainly very pretty, and they show

-wonderful power of memory to keep up the succession all through the

-night, without a book of words or musical score.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52">{52}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>I can imagine too, as the enthusiasm of the dance increases, that there

-must be a sort of fascination about the performance.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, August 13th.</i>&mdash;The dance was kept up till daylight, and I got

-little or no sleep before that. When I did get to sleep, I slept so

-soundly that it was late on in the morning before I awoke, and then I

-was driven to it. Arthur Huqe appeared at my bedside and asked me if he

-should ring the bell for prayers, and I was obliged to consent. The

-whole day afterwards was somewhat of a blank to me, and I went no

-whither and did little till evening. The duties of the day however, were

-carried on as usual.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, August 14th.</i>&mdash;The usual holiday. We had Prayers very early,

-and before breakfast I took a picture of most of the congregation in

-front of the church, which I hope will turn out good. It was not a

-pleasant day indoors, there was a strong wind blowing, and clouds of

-dust penetrating my house from all quarters, and I was not sorry to

-accept Arthur’s offer to go with himself and most of the people to the

-riverside. There it is always cool and pleasant, and the luxury of a

-bathe, although almost a daily occurence, is always appreciated. I took

-my photographic Camera with me, and after almost burying myself in mud,

-succeeded in getting a good view of the pretty taro gardens. On our way

-to Rarava the monotony of the road was relieved by our starting a

-“malau,” the ornithological name of which I know not, but it is a kind

-of bush turkey, it has a red head, yellow legs and black feathers, and

-is really like a common hen in shape and appearance. The poor thing was

-evidently startled from her peculiar nest, where she was about to

-deposit her eggs. These strange birds after securing a favourable spot,

-lay their eggs some depth beneath the upper soil, and leave them there

-uncared for until the young ones hatch themselves, and when strong

-enough burst their earthly tenement, and come forth to the light of day.

-Some say the parent comes occasionally back to her nest to see how

-matters are progressing, and even digs at the earth to find out how the

-process of hatching goes on. If she finds her progeny ready to walk, she

-drives them on before her to a place of security, but the general belief

-is that she allows them to shift for themselves. These curious birds are

-said to feed principally on the large ants here called “gandee.”</p>

-

-<p>In Savo and some of the Solomon Islands, these birds are tamed and

-fenced in, to lay their eggs in the hot sand, but here they are wild and

-rare. Their eggs which are very numerous are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53">{53}</a></span> esteemed a great delicacy.

-This poor bird in question tried very hard to get away by flight, but

-getting entangled in the thick bush, was shot by a cruel arrow. The

-capture was the food for conversation throughout the day, and I listened

-to the relation and re-relation of the narrative of it times without

-number, with all the little details with which natives are wont to

-embellish and amplify their narration of the smallest fact. It is

-perfectly wonderful how the smallest matter affords pasture for native

-conversation, and what a wonderful faculty they have of making multum

-out of parvum. In powers of conversation and flow of language, I think

-natives are far before our European working classes. A native never

-seems at a loss for something to say, and certainly never fails to

-express himself from lack of words.</p>

-

-<p>I have frequently heard an European confess that he had a great deal to

-say, but he could not express himself for want of words. The fluency of

-speech, and powers of conversation are not confined here to the weaker

-sex, and I think the men have quite as long tongues as the women,

-although I do not think they chatter so much or make such a clatter.

-Some of the men are great wits, and make fun for the multitude, but I do

-not think this applies to the women. The Maewo folks are great

-“laughers,” and go off into fits of cacchination at the smallest joke.

-They are a most simple, good-natured race certainly, and it is hard to

-conceive of their being such depraved savages, so gentle are they in

-their ways.</p>

-

-<p>After school with the teachers in the evening, during which we discussed

-our Sunday programme, we had Evensong, and afterwards a long singing

-practice. Miss Mount’s generous gift is a most welcome addition to our

-singing, and Arthur Huqe begins to play the harmonium very nicely at the

-services. Our singing is very fair on the whole, but there is room for

-improvement, and we have the ability if I could get the girls to use

-their very nice voices. In the old familiar hymns and chants they sing

-out lustily, but when we attempt anything new, they shut up altogether,

-without making a trial to join in.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, August 15th.</i>&mdash;There are two very homely sounds which break the

-stillness of the early morning here, and the first is the cock which

-seems to have a peculiar faculty for crowing in these latitudes, he

-starts his chant before commerce is awake and he keeps religiously at it

-all day long. Here at Maewo, too, these birds are in prodigal abundance,

-their flesh is esteemed very delicate food, and is kept for great and

-exalted occasions. Here<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54">{54}</a></span> the male takes precedence of the female even in

-the matter of dumb animals, and sows and hens are looked upon as only

-fit food for women. The crow of the first cock is a signal for a general

-chorus, and then the natives begin to stir. As soon as they appear on

-the threshold of their doors another chorus takes up the morning song,

-and the pigs begin their squealing. Whether it is that one looks for

-more peace on Sunday morning, or whether one perchance is a trifle more

-inclined to take a little more sleep or a little more slumber, whatever

-the actual cause may be, I always notice that on Sundays there is always

-a greater noise from the domestic animals than on ordinary days. The

-pigs here are hand fed, and will not be denied, they squeal to their

-hearts’ content until they have their morning meal, and being in

-considerable numbers the noise is not sleep producing. In old days these

-animals were kept for their heathen feasts, but as of late these have

-fallen into disuse, so the pigs have increased until they have become

-one of the features of the place. At a Baptism or any great Church

-Festival such as Christmas, Easter, Pentecost, one or more male animals

-have to die, and although the possession of a flock is as much valued as

-an Englishman’s stud, no one ever grumbles to kill his animal when his

-turn comes round.</p>

-

-<p>Being very hot this morning, and there being a prospect of the

-repetition of the Egyptian plague of flies, who always add to the

-discomfort of a congregation, we had school very early. Our numbers were

-slightly augmented by outsiders, but not quite to my satisfaction. After

-a hasty breakfast I started for Uta. This is a good long distance from

-here, and I was in a state of dripping perspiration when I arrived

-there. I found everyone keeping a Sabbath, but very few appreciating the

-idea of a Christian Sunday.</p>

-

-<p>However, I had quite a large congregation in the neat little school but

-the ladies preponderated in point of numbers. We had quite a nice hearty

-little service, and they listened patiently to an address from myself. I

-wish from my heart I had a good teacher to place here, for I know he

-would be the means of doing much good work to God’s glory. The present

-teacher is a very good, conscientious fellow, but his own knowledge is

-not much above that of his own countrymen, and they grow weary of

-hearing continually the same thing. I was quite pleased with my visit,

-and amply rewarded for any discomfort I experienced in the journey. I do

-not expect that any immediate result will issue<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55">{55}</a></span> from such spasmodic

-efforts, but there is no knowing the power of grace, and God’s ways are

-not as our ways. Often it is that the last becomes first, and the first

-last. At all events I keep the door open, and I hope before long someone

-else may be raised up to settle among them as a permanent teacher. After

-resting awhile I took my homeward journey, escorted according to custom

-by the denizens of the village beyond their own boundary. I returned by

-way of “Na Ruru,” where “Anthony” one of our Norfolk Island trained boys

-has a school. He seems to be doing fairly well there, and has a nice

-school. After sitting with him for some time, the shades of evening

-began to close in, and I to feel somewhat famished, having had but

-little since morning. Bidding him goodbye I started for Tanrig, where I

-arrived in due course. After dinner I baptized three children, Maida,

-Victoria and Matthew respectively. The Font was very prettily arranged

-and decorated by Arthur Huqe, and the service generally, very nice.

-Later on we had Evensong, quite a refreshing and stirring service, at

-which I preached, and never before do I remember to have secured more

-attention. These children I Baptized this evening make up the number of

-Christians here to 100, under God, the fruits of my own, and my

-teacher’s work, and I feel that by the orderly and consistent lives of

-most of them, I can thank God and take courage.</p>

-

-<p>I took as the basis of my remarks, our Lord’s last command to His

-Disciples, and I urged those who had already been admitted into the

-fellowship of Christ’s religion, to eschew all those things which were

-contrary to their profession, and to follow all such things as were

-agreeable to the same, and those still without the pale to lose no time

-in applying for that rite, the absence of which our Lord declared must

-be condemnation. Those words have a strong sound here for Missionary and

-heathen&mdash;“He that believeth and is Baptized shall be saved, but he that

-believeth not shall be dammed.” One realizes here their full weight, and

-solemnity, and power. Quite three parts of the congregation have dropped

-in to wish me good night, and by the hushed stillness over the place I

-can tell that God’s Word has not fallen to the ground. God grant that it

-may minister grace to hearer and preacher.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, August 16th.</i>&mdash;The night was made perfectly hideous by the

-howling of the fiendish curs which are dignified with the name of dogs,

-the squealing of hungry swine, and the cackling of a poor forlorn goose

-whose kith and kin have left her a solitary representative of her

-species, and who seems to find her only<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56">{56}</a></span> solace in sitting outside my

-door and calling to her lost companions. The dogs are simply a pest to

-the place, they keep up their incessant bark all the day long, and all

-night they howl and prowl around. They are hideously ugly, undersized

-creatures, and are the more loathsome because they are the acknowledged

-scavengers of the place. They are not worthy to be called dogs, and any

-one except he was assured of the fact, would scarcely believe that they

-were dogs. They are supposed to be useful in catching wild pigs, but

-from their appearance you would fancy that it must be a poor specimen of

-a pig they would dare to tackle. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and

-all these sounds rending the still night air simultaneously drove sleep

-from my eyes, and produced such inward irritation and disgust that if a

-thought could have killed the lot, none of them would have troubled the

-world again with their noises. A most glorious morning enticed me up

-very early, and certainly the early dawn was very fresh and beautiful.

-We had Prayers very soon after daylight and even then the blue bottles

-had collected in great numbers and were by no means a help to devotion.

-These pests spring into existence at once as soon as any number of human

-bodies are congregated together, and are particularly active in church

-and school. The idea of them apart from their propensities is very nasty

-and disgusting, and when in a country like this without the concomitants

-of devotion, one wants all the solemnity one can possibly obtain, their

-presence and irritation are the more odious and nauseating.</p>

-

-<p>To-day, according to custom, we kept the Christening Feast of the

-children who were Baptized last night. The parents of the children gave

-a most beautiful pig, and the women attended to the cooking, the men

-dispersing in many directions each in quest of his own business or

-pleasure. I went with a party to Ruosi where we bathed, and got back in

-time for the opening of the ovens, and the division of the feast. I said

-grace and then each one partook of his or her share of the plentiful

-repast, all eating together in the most harmonious fashion, and not as

-in old days the sexes keeping religiously apart. This middle wall of

-separation has been almost entirely broken down, and family life and

-sociability have taken the place of the old seclusion and division. It

-was a most glorious night but the people were too tired to dance, and we

-all retired early to our houses. I kept busy till very late writing up

-arrears of correspondence and reading, and was the last in the village

-out of bed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57">{57}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, August 17th.</i>&mdash;The most glorious day from earliest morning

-till now at night, the evening one of the most beautiful I ever saw,

-when the moon rose it was a most perfect night above and below, the sky

-studded with myriads of stars and absolutely cloudless, here everything

-hushed in peaceful slumber, except the restless, ever-singing crickets,

-whose buzz is continuously kept up by night and day. At the heathen end

-of the village there was a sort of Irish wake kept up to-day, but there

-was no “tangi” or any ceremony except a pig being killed, and a great

-feast being prepared. Formerly, death days were kept with great

-strictness, and the day of death and the 100th were observed with great

-festivities. I have seen nothing of the kind now for years, and I

-fancied the custom had quite died out. It was supposed in old days when

-the people were still heathen, that the disembodied spirit, after it

-left its earthly tenement, hung about hungry and restless on the thick

-creepers in the bush, and on the day of death a great feast was prepared

-for it, after which it retired to the place of departed spirits called

-Banoi. This same Banoi is near Tasmouri, but I have never seen it. The

-idea, I believe, is that when the spirit is at length at rest, its stone

-is placed in a certain cave or pit there exists there, and the people

-who have seen the place, tell me that certainly there far inland are

-smooth seaside stones laid in wonderful regularity, and in old days

-supposed to be put there by successive spirits in order as they died.

-Until quite recently, no one ventured into this ghostly place, and it

-was regarded as eminently sacred. Some day I hope to go there and

-examine it for myself.</p>

-

-<p>I cannot find out the rationale of the subsequent death days, but they

-seem to have more to do with the living than the dead, and are supposed

-to show the departed one that he or she is still kept in faithful and

-affectionate memory.</p>

-

-<p>In old days everyone was careful to have one good pig at least, in

-readiness for the day of his death, and any others which he might

-possess at the time of his departure, his friends were careful to kill

-in his honour.</p>

-

-<p>They carefully kept the days, principally the tens, I think, and

-religiously observed the 100th, after which remembrance seemed no longer

-necessary, but before that, I am afraid, there was a large amount of

-selfishness about the death days, and more was thought of the living in

-them than of the dead. The people tell me how strictly these days were

-kept formerly, they dispensed with their regular ordinary food sometimes

-for the whole 100<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">{58}</a></span> days, and ate only such roots and fruits as grow wild

-in the bush, religiously abstaining from all garden produce until the

-full time had expired. Some went even beyond this when a very particular

-person died, and for the whole 100 days ate only one kind of root, and

-that the most difficult to obtain, strenuously refusing to partake of

-food in common with others. I have known a man myself adhere to this

-rigid, self-imposed abstention, in the case of the death of a son, and

-of a wife, not here however, but at Opa. A man once came into my house

-over there, tired and hungry after a long fast and a laborious journey,

-but he strictly refused a biscuit or other food which I ventured to

-offer him, and when or where he ate I do not know, for the particular

-food he had chosen to eat was most rare in the neighbourhood, I doubt

-even if it was obtainable at all. Yet no privation or distress would

-force him to break his rule, and eat promiscuously until the proper time

-had elapsed. In the keeping of their days they are wonderfully accurate,

-and you seldom find them wrong in their calculations. Their fingers are

-their ready reckoners, and they have to do a great deal more work than

-ours in assisting a weak memory, where the use of slate and pencil are

-unknown. I very often ask people to count over the names of persons in

-the place or neighbourhood, just to see how clever and correct they are

-with their numbers. Here the whole ten fingers are used, at Opa only the

-left hand, five fingers down being five, the first finger up and the

-rest down six, and so on until all are up which makes ten, then two

-tens, three tens, up to ten tens or one hundred. In the distribution of

-food, too, it is wonderful how accurate they are, and it is very rarely

-that any one is left out of the count. Of course, where the science of

-numbers is unknown, nature teaches by a more roundabout, but scarcely

-less accurate process. For all practical purposes and uses, their

-fingers help them a great deal, indeed almost as far as their

-requirements go, for their lives are very simple and their ways

-uncomplicated. The leaves of a certain palm, however, lends them some

-assistance, especially in the distribution of food, and as the person is

-seen, or his name thought of, a leaf is broken off, and then the broken

-leaves are counted. I have never heard of the toes being used as

-assistants, although one might fancy their being of service.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, August 18th.</i>&mdash;About midnight as I lay reading in bed, and a

-perfect stillness reigned around, we experienced a very sharp shock of

-an earthquake. My house shook so uncomfortably, that I really feared it

-was coming down, and I had the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">{59}</a></span> sort of feeling as of some one trying to

-upset it, and I felt as if I must say “Oh! do not, please leave off, you

-will have it down.” My neighbour’s fence was shaken so, that I fancied

-some considerable damage had been done. The vibration lasted a good long

-time, some seconds I should say, after the real shock was over, and I

-felt myself, a sort of palpitation for some considerable period. I was

-not afraid, but no one can feel an earthquake without some instinctive

-dread. Nothing, I think, makes one feel one’s littleness and

-helplessness and insecurity more, and there is such a solemnity attached

-to it, that you are very thankful when it is fairly over. Man, bird and

-beast were roused into action at once, and there was quite an excitement

-here for a time. Curiously enough, in the evening there was a very

-bright and exceedingly beautiful after-glow, and I remarked to the boys

-how like it was to the time when the terrible destruction was caused in

-the gulf of Sunda, and I said casually, that I should not be surprised

-if we had more earthquakes soon. The natives have a firm idea that they

-are the precursors of rain, and certainly this morning we have had a

-very heavy downpour. This is the first rain we have had for the whole

-month I have been here, and the first day I have been kept to solitary

-confinement. Most of the day I have been absolutely alone, and my pen

-has been kept very busy writing letters and hymns and songs. With the

-latter I have been very successful, and have managed four. One,

-particularly successful, goes to the chorus of “Wait till the clouds

-roll by,” and is as follows:&mdash;</p>

-

-<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">

-<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Ge togatoga ririkqa.</td><td class="bl">Gana sako na usu maraga,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Mati ni van ran̈ai,</td><td class="bl">Gana toura na gabe tar,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">A lan̈i ni rowo na wia,</td><td class="bl">Gana tura goro na masi</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Tavi dago na tasgoro.</td><td class="bl">Gana koko betegag.</td></tr>

-</table>

-

-<div class="poetry">

-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">

-<span class="i0">Gana unui vagamatera<br /></span>

-<span class="i0">A len̈elen̈e mas<br /></span>

-<span class="i0">Gana tuwur, sogon le gete<br /></span>

-<span class="i0">Toli tasgoro rik ka sem.<br /></span>

-</div></div>

-</div>

-

-<p class="nind">of which the translation is:&mdash;</p>

-

-<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">

-<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Wait a little bit longer,</td><td class="bl">Then we will take bow and arrow,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Wait till the tide is low,</td><td class="bl">Then we will carry our nets,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Wait till the wind blow fairer,</td><td class="bl">Then we will stop in the fishes</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">And then make the tasgoro.</td><td class="bl">And gather them properly up.</td></tr>

-</table>

-

-<div class="poetry">

-<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">

-<span class="i0">We will kill them dead with poison,<br /></span>

-<span class="i0">All and every kind of fish,<br /></span>

-<span class="i0">We will gather and lay them in baskets,<br /></span>

-<span class="i0">What a glorious tasgoro!<br /></span>

-<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60">{60}</a></span></div></div>

-</div>

-

-<p>The <i>tasgoro</i> I have before described. Part of beach enclosed, tabu’d,

-and after lapse of time opened again to the public.</p>

-

-<p>This evening we have sung this chorus with grand effect, and high as I

-was previously in popular estimation as a poet, I have gone still higher

-now. What a little thing wins popularity, how little is a thing so

-easily purchased worth the having! One other song goes very prettily and

-smoothly to “Home sweet Home,” and is much appreciated. It is, as far as

-I could adapt it, the reproduction of the English song into Maewo.

-“Dream Faces” supplied me with another very pretty little song, which

-runs very well, the theme of which is the “moonlight.” “Our Jack’s come

-home to-night,” lent me the music of a fourth song, which is peculiarly

-native in expression, and slightly more comic than the two above

-mentioned.</p>

-

-<p>The production of this last was received with such peals of laughter,

-that for a time confusion and merriment took the place of composure and

-perfect gravity. It would lose its charm and half its meaning if I were

-to attempt to translate it into English. Here, however, is the Maewo:&mdash;</p>

-

-<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">

-<tr><td class="pdrt">Ta disava qarik</td><td class="bl">Isei ni tau na as?</td></tr>

-<tr><td class="pdrt">Eh? Ron̈o lolora va!</td><td class="bl">Ki isei qa ni sawu?</td></tr>

-<tr><td class="pdrt">Wa sagoro ta sagoro</td><td class="bl">Ki gida, sem, ta lai ran̈ai!</td></tr>

-<tr><td class="pdrt">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Ron̈o lolora va!</td><td class="bl">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Toli sagoro rik!</td></tr>

-<tr><td class="pdrt">Da! ta sagoro da!</td><td class="bl">Ge riri betigag!</td></tr>

-<tr><td class="pdrt">Ta sagoro tei rik</td><td class="bl">Ga laia ran̈ai sag!</td></tr>

-<tr><td class="pdrt">Kare mawmaw, tei riki vak!</td><td class="bl">Ge wosawosa limamu!</td></tr>

-<tr><td class="pdrt">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; A wula marama!</td><td class="bl">Tolina rik ka sem!</td></tr>

-</table>

-

-<p class="nind">The “Dream Faces” song is as follows:-</p>

-

-<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Nan ligo asik suri marama,</td><td align="left">&mdash;I’ll make my song about the moonlight,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Tolina rik sem a wula marama,</td><td align="left">&mdash;Charming indeed is the light of the moon,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Osoos ti rasu mera na maran,</td><td align="left">&mdash;Darkness has flown, it is light as the day,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Non eteete ti lita soun na qon̈.</td><td align="left">&mdash;His brightness chased the night far away.</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Nan ligo asik suri marama,</td><td align="left">&mdash;I’ll make my song about the moonlight,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">An̈eisa tea le isi Tamada,</td><td align="left">&mdash;Some day I ween in our great Father’s land,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Ala na maran vagatewa tau,</td><td align="left">&mdash;There day unending for ever will be,</td></tr>

-<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Qon tigai ala, moa marama,</td><td align="left">&mdash;Night is unknown there, light only endless.</td></tr>

-</table>

-

-<p>The light called “marama,” is looked upon by natives as the perfection

-of light, because it is, I suppose, unaccompanied by the burning heat of

-the sun. I therefore use it as illustrating better the idea of heaven’s

-light. Maran is the light of day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61">{61}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, August 19th.</i>&mdash;The village was hushed in the stillness of

-slumber again about midnight, and I was preparing for bed, too, and

-kneeling down to say my prayers, when another quite sharp earthquake

-shock was felt, and the sensation came upon me very solemnly and

-impressively while so engaged. I cannot say why I trembled, but I did,

-and it was quite instinctive. However, I went to bed and slept

-profoundly. We have had another slight shock of domestic earthquake here

-this morning, and Ann, one of our young married women, after rating her

-husband, started off for Naruru, and we were quite in a ferment here for

-a short time. However, this evening, her parents went for her, and I

-have had to give her a scolding. I told her that anger was like a charge

-of dynamite, it not only exploded itself, but it produced destructive

-effects far and wide, indeed there was no knowing what the extent of its

-mischief might be. She seemed penitent, and was utterly ashamed of her

-unchristian conduct. I am thankful to say that scenes of domestic

-warfare are uncommon here, and, generally speaking, a great deal of

-harmony prevails, but of course there are clouds in the most perfect

-day, and the smoothest ocean is at times ruffled by the sudden breeze.

-Beyond this, our day has been like most other days, except for the

-thatching of Peter’s “gamal,” which has brought together a large

-concourse of people, and has been the occasion of a great festivity this

-evening. Arthur, Patrick and myself walked down to Ruosi in the

-afternoon, where we bathed, and returned in the evening. Our evening

-duties as usual.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, August 20th.</i>&mdash;Certainly we are blessed with the most glorious

-weather. This morning was simply perfect, and one almost wishes one

-could keep some of its coolness for the middle of the day, when the heat

-is very great.</p>

-

-<p>After school and breakfast this morning, some of the people invited me

-to go with them eel catching. As the performance was new to me, I gladly

-assented. The scene of the sport lay in the direction of the water fall,

-and I took my camera, hoping to get a good view of it.</p>

-

-<p>We followed the course of the stream, and waded through the taro

-gardens, and finally found ourselves in the most advantageous position

-for a photograph. It ought to be good, after all my efforts to secure

-the picture, but I could not get far enough away. While I have been

-writing this, since I began the last sentence, an earthquake shock has

-shaken the place very perceptibly, and, why I know not, has left a

-tremour all over me, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62">{62}</a></span> I cannot explain. The picture being shot

-off, I hastened back to where the eel catching was going on. The water

-was cleverly dammed off above two large pools, and then one pool

-“teemed” out with buckets. In the first pool nothing was discovered, and

-the next proceeding was to empty the full pool into the now empty one.

-This took some time, but it was finally accomplished, and one large eel

-was captured, the sole occupant of the pool, and the only sport afforded

-after a long day’s work. Disappointment was depicted on all

-countenances, and I was rather disgusted too, having expected to see

-some sport. I comforted myself with a most glorious bathe in the broad

-flowing river, and hastened home to drown my disappointment in a cup of

-tea.</p>

-

-<p>After school this evening, I was sitting here alone, when four men came

-in, in whispers, and shut the door behind them, and when they had sat

-down, they said, still in the lowest accents, “we wish to see your

-Eucharistic vessels.” I proceeded to exhibit them, and they seemed quite

-awe struck. Miss Patteson would have been pleased to have seen how her

-noble gift was valued and appreciated. The exhibition of the beautiful

-vessels gave me much food for conversation with these men, and I told

-them I hoped the day was not far distant when they would be regularly

-used in the Church here, and they themselves be partakers from them of

-the Blessed Tokens of Redeeming Love, the bread of the world in mercy

-broken, the wine of the soul in mercy shed.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, August 21st.</i>&mdash;General holiday as usual. Nothing of

-particular importance marked the day, except the visit of three nice

-fellows from Uta. The British Workman’s Almanac adorns my walls, and

-they were particularly struck with the picture of Lord Shaftesbury which

-occupies the centre. Curiously, many others have admired this same

-picture, why I do not know, except perhaps from its size. I told these

-visitors all about the late Earl, of his philantrophy and the goodness

-of his life, and I told them too, of the philantrophy and goodness of a

-greater than he, “who went about doing, and healing all manner of

-diseases and sicknesses among the people.” They asked me if I had heard

-the earthquake of late, to which I responded in the affirmative, and

-told them of the terrible outburst of volcanic power at Tarawera, and

-the fearful and alarming results, and I said there was no knowing but it

-might be our turn next, and we ought to try and be prepared for whatever

-lay before us. I urged them to fly, while they had the opportunity, to

-the Higher<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">{63}</a></span> Rock, for there we should find shelter and protection until

-the tyranny were overpast, and any such visitation would be but to bring

-us the quicker to a haven of rest and safety, whither such things never

-come. They asked me if I could not spare some regular teacher to come

-and live with them, to teach them the wonderful things of God’s law, and

-expound more fully to them, the things concerning the Kingdom of God. I

-promised them a weekly service, but I could do no more just yet.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, August 22nd.</i>&mdash;A most glorious Sabbath morning. We had school

-before breakfast, both because it was cooler and also on account of the

-blue bottle flies, which become very troublesome in the heat of the day,

-where people are congregated together. Before our school duties were

-over, they became very numerous, and I was not sorry to get back to the

-refuge and quiet of my own house. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer,

-a very nice service, but not rendered more solemn by the presence, in

-crowds, of those disgusting pests, the flies. However, they are an

-inevitable worry, from which there seems no chance of escape. After

-Prayers I went to the Unduna villages, and talked to the few people I

-found there. They were keeping Sunday, they said, i.e. they were doing

-no work and were generally idling. I asked why they did not come to

-Church as formerly, and they said it was too far. I asked why then did

-not they build a school there, and I would be responsible for the

-teaching in it. They so far assented as to say that they would see about

-it, when they had got through with their yam planting. There is a nice

-little population there, and I have always had it on my conscience that

-nothing practical or definite had been done for them. Natives do not

-care to go to the trouble of a few yards more or less for religion, so I

-suppose the alternative is that religion must go to them. One very nice

-man called “Vangoro,” was most energetic about the building, in

-promising to get it done and helping all he could, he is a leading man

-there too, and I hope my desire will be accomplished.</p>

-

-<p>It was very hot coming back, and I was in a liquid state when I got

-home. The evening was deliriously cool and fine, and I enjoyed it

-outside my house with several of the people.</p>

-

-<p>Evensong was a very nice quiet service, and I preached on the subject of

-the Collect (9th Sunday after Trinity), the “spirit to think and do

-always such things as were rightful.” I hope I got intelligent

-attention. We had some nice singing afterwards, and the people went very

-quietly home.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64">{64}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday.</i>&mdash;Blank days.</p>

-

-<p>On Monday there were great festivities here, and a dance till morning. I

-began to feel ill in the evening, and spent a most wretched night. On

-Tuesday I was unwell all day, and could do nothing. On Wednesday I was

-fearfully ill all day with a severe attack of fever and ague, and lay

-down under all the wraps I could secure, until the hot fit came on with

-a very severe headache. In the evening the boys surprised me by saying

-there was a white man outside, and I was glad to welcome Mr. Blackburne,

-Government agent of the Sybil, from Queensland. The vessel anchored at

-the watering place, and the boys told him “Missionary he plenty sick.”

-He therefore very kindly came up and spent the night with me. He has

-just left me now, and I have not strength to go with him to the ship.

-However, I am better to-day, and hope after a big dose of Quinine he has

-given me, that I shall be better.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, August 31st.</i>&mdash;I have wasted a whole week, and only to-day

-feel equal to doing anything or going anywhere. To-day for the first

-time for a week, I have moved out of the village boundaries, and have

-been to the river with the boys and bathed.</p>

-

-<p>It has been a sickly time here all together, and many besides myself

-have been laid by. It is bearably pleasant to be pent up day by day

-within doors when feeling well, but almost unbearably so when one feels

-ill and out of sorts. However, I trust it is all over now, please God,

-and I must endeavour to make up for lost time. Several of the people,

-Arthur included, have been quite ill through eating a certain eel,

-caught somewhere in the sea and very poisonous. They all detected the

-burning, stinging sensation on their lips, tongue and palate as soon as

-they had eaten it, but fancied it was the taro. From that time till the

-end of the week, they have been all laid up, and one or two have been

-very bad indeed. They have experienced not only burning, sharp pains

-internally, and pricking, poignant stabbing pains in the palms of the

-hands and soles of the feet, but have suffered a great deal also from

-strong and utter prostration with an abhorrent distaste for food.

-Several others were warned betimes from partaking, or the poisoning

-might have been more general. This particular eel was caught by a

-heathen on a Sunday, and therefore its peculiarly deleterious and

-poisonous qualities have been traced by the more virtuous to that fact,

-of which no cognizance was taken before it was cooked and eaten, nor

-would have been afterwards, but for its effects. The really admitted

-fact, however, I believe, is that certain fish caught at certain parts

-of the beach at particular<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65">{65}</a></span> seasons of the year, have all a more or less

-poisonous effect on those who eat them. The people themselves say it is

-the feed they find there which makes them poisonous, but it may be

-inherent in the nature of the particular fish. I remember on many

-occasions on board the <i>Southern Cross</i>, the natives looking askance at

-some very tempting looking fish which had been caught, and pronouncing

-them dangerous to eat. On one very memorable occasion, when dinner was

-over, one of the senior boys being cook, and one of the most poisonous

-of fish having been served and partaken of by all, this youth without a

-change of feature saying to some remark that was passed, “Oh! Yes, we

-die in our country if we eat that fish.” This was reassuring after what

-had passed, and we eyed one another with wistful and anxious faces,

-thinking whether or not perchance our end may have been hastened by our

-wilful inadvertence in thus partaking of deadly poison. But we neither

-swelled, nor fell down dead, and felt no ill effects. Many a time, too,

-since, I have eaten the same fish with the like happy and successful

-result. This particular kind of eel, however, has played the same <i>post

-mortem</i> tricks before, and taken his revenge for wrongs received before

-going into the oven. The people tell me that those who have eaten, have

-become like mummies, their hair and skin have changed to a ghastly

-leaden hue, and have fallen off like a snake’s skin. How far this is

-true or fable, I know not, but it may be partially credible. Nothing of

-the sort has happened fortunately, at this present crisis, and the

-sufferers are about again.</p>

-

-<p>A dull, dark evening ushered in a blustery, rough night, and the coughs

-and sneezings and other demonstrative sounds peculiar to people who do

-not carry pocket handkerchiefs, bore testimony to the fact of an

-epidemic catarrh, contracted during a very inclement week. Like the

-Norfolk Islanders, they look for the source of such things in the world

-without, and accuse my friend Mr. Blackburne of having brought it here,

-all the way from Queensland. In what part of his luggage he secreted so

-desirable a communication I know not, but they are decidedly of opinion

-that he it was who ‘gave them’ the cold, and they were unwise enough to

-‘catch it’ from him. He ‘had’ the cold, they said, when he came here,

-and certainly said I, I believe he took it away again. However, as colds

-are catching, I suppose they must be left content with their belief, and

-to ‘bless him,’ I hope, every time they sneeze.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">{66}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 1st.</i>&mdash;Another full month past and gone, and

-leaving I fear, but a poor memory of much good done behind it. The days

-here certainly fly past one after another in rapid flight, and the very

-monotony of existence speeds their departure. One day is so like another

-that it passes unmarkedly by, and one finds oneself, all at once, at the

-end of the week, and is brought to final consciousness of the rapid

-rotation of time’s wheels at the end of the month. What has been done in

-the month? I fear there is but a poor record. God grant that I myself

-may have, by His Grace, made one step forward, and have been

-instrumental in leading others also onward to a higher and better life,

-and to that final epoch where the flight of time is unmarked by days and

-weeks and months and years, for time itself will be swallowed up in

-eternity.</p>

-

-<p>Nothing much happened to-day. A bright morning seemed likely to usher in

-a fine and brilliant day, but in the forenoon the rain pelted down, and

-for some hours we had a glorious downpour. The “blue bottles” gave

-indication of this at Prayers and morning school, and I have never known

-them in such numbers or so troublesome. One perfectly loathed oneself,

-but escape from them was impossible, they crowded my house, which is

-generally free from their incursions, and the poor people seemed quite

-distracted. This is the great yam planting season, and everyone was away

-after school busy at his garden. The heavy rain, however, drove them

-home, and some took refuge here with me. Natives are not great hands for

-introducing originality into their conversation, nor do they go much

-beyond the sight of their eyes, or the hearing of their ears for their

-subject matter. Any prominent object which attracts their attention is

-made the subject of remark. This is a specimen of the sort of

-conversation which goes on. I was writing when my friends came in, “Oh!

-you are writing!” “Yes, what else did you suppose I should be doing with

-pen, ink and paper?” “Oh! this is a curious tin, what is in it? Meat?”

-“You are the 101st person who has asked that self-same question, I

-answered the 100 before you with the monosyllabic negative, No, and I

-give you the same answer.” “What then is in it? Fish?” “No.” “Fruit?”

-“Yes, I hope you are satisfied.” “Oh! I see you have a “kove” (native

-flute) up there in the thatch, who gave it you?” “You yourself have

-asked that same question ten times before, and I have always given the

-same answer, ‘Arthur,’ next time perhaps you will know without asking.”

-“You have a bow and arrow there, where did you get them?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67">{67}</a></span>” “Considering

-that every person in the village knows from whence they came, and has

-made them the subject of general conversation for weeks, I wonder you

-should be the only person ignorant of their origin, especially as you

-were here when I brought them from Tasmouri.” This is the style of thing

-which goes on, and except that one is glad to accede to any means for

-introducing conversation, one would soon weary of it. They themselves do

-not seem to mind going over and over again the same conversation, and

-wading through the same minutiæ of detail, and they expect one to be

-equally patient. The rain gave me a good opportunity of planting my new

-fence, and I planted, as a start, a number of oranges around my house.

-The evening was fine, and the moon already quite sizeable. We had the

-usual singing school after Prayers, with very good success. When the

-practice was over, I asked the older men to sing some of their own

-songs, and they readily complied. Old blind Daniel is the great leader,

-and knows all the songs. There are three parts to the native song, (1)

-the person who starts and sings the air as in a Gregorian tone, and then

-follows (2) a chorus, then (3) a single voice takes up the air again,

-and this is followed by the chorus. The first singer is said to “tau”

-the song, the second to “sawu,” and the chorus to “lai.” The songs are

-very pretty, and they kept them up with spirit for quite an hour. Some

-of the singers beat a weird kind of accompaniment with bamboos, and kept

-most excellent time. When the performance was over, it was time to

-retire, and soon quietness warned me that it was time for me, too, to be

-going to rest.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 2nd.</i>&mdash;How the days seem to chase one another in

-ever too hasty flight! It seems no sooner morning than the night is here

-again. We tried the experiment to-day of having prayers even earlier

-than usual, to be rid of the noxious blue bottles, but only partially

-succeeded in anything like freedom from them. At the school subsequently

-they were more troublesome, I think, than ever, and it was not an easy

-matter to keep one’s own or one’s pupils’ attention, with these hideous

-creatures buzzing about. After Prayers and school one is fairly ready

-for breakfast, and by the time that is over the day has already worn on

-towards Noon.</p>

-

-<p>It is the commencement of planting time now, and the people are very

-busy day after day in their yam gardens preparing the soil. It is by no

-means easy work, and they certainly make a very good show by the end of

-the day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68">{68}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>I always like to get out somewhere if I can every day, for I find my

-health is better for the constant out-door exercise. This morning the

-people were all going shrimping, and I accepted an invitation to go with

-them to a place called ‘Niewotu.’ I had never been there before, and I

-was charmed with the picturesque beauty of it. A clear, flowing river is

-utilized for the purpose of irrigation, and there one saw again the

-quaint little taro beds so deftly laid out, and the showy crotons and

-dracænas ornamenting the immediate view, while all round the bush was

-thickly matted with innumerable, and almost impenetrable creepers with

-masses of white and pink flowers. In the direct foreground one got a

-peep of the bright blue sea sparkling in the midday heat. A bathe, and

-green cocoanuts were very agreeable and most refreshing. The boon of

-abundance of water in these hot countries is inestimable, and this

-island is rich in its water supply. Araga again on the other hand is

-very badly off, and Opa not much better.</p>

-

-<p>Evening duties as usual, and some hymn singing afterwards.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, September 4th.</i>&mdash;After Prayers and breakfast, the boys and I

-started for a long meditated journey up the coast. It was a most

-glorious day, but very hot, the sun scorching down with pitiless heat.

-We embarked at Kerepei, sixteen of us all told, and rowed away against

-the Trade wind which was blowing strong down the coast. We were a merry

-party, and the shore view was very beautiful as we coasted along. From

-the point of embarkation to Tanrowo, a distance of eight or ten miles,

-there is not a single “salt water” native, and it seems a great pity to

-see so much valuable land lying fallow, when it might be utilised for

-almost any purpose. As we rounded the Point between us and Tanrowo,

-called “Vaturowa,” we saw a vessel at anchor in the distance. The heat

-on the water was intense, and I felt myself being scorched about the

-face and hands. The natives, hatless and clotheless, did not seem to

-mind it, and their exuberant spirits were proof against almost any outer

-evil. We saw some people along the coast, and conversed with them at

-several places. Arriving at “Beitarara,” we saw a number of people we

-knew. We of course asked about the “schooner” at anchor, and they said

-they did not know what she was, as she had only just a short time before

-come to her anchorage. However, the boat painted red was coming towards

-us, and soon we were within speaking distance. I asked where she was

-from, and what was her errand. As they came close to us, I heard my name

-called,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">{69}</a></span> and found myself shaking hands with Captain Martin of the

-schooner “Idaho” from Noumea. I met him years ago when he was in charge

-of the “John S. Lane,” Captain McCleod owner, and he very kindly then

-towed me across from Opa to Pentecost Island. He seemed very glad to see

-me, and invited me on board. He now belongs to the “Nouvelles Hebrides”

-Company, and was recruiting labour for “Port Sandwich” in Mallicollo.

-The Company had bought land here at “Beitarara,” and he just dropped in

-to see the people. He was very kind and amiable, and I spent some time

-on board, and made some purchases.</p>

-

-<p>The boat then started for our destination, where we found many amiable,

-friendly people awaiting us, and although they had sold their land, they

-had very hazy notions as to how much had been purchased, or what was to

-be done with it. After spending some time with them, we gave them some

-presents, and then found it was time to be getting homeward. A strong

-favourable breeze took us rapidly to the Kerepei. Arriving at “Ruosi,”

-we found a large number of our people awaiting us, with a smoking hot

-supper they had cooked for us there. We arrived here tired and sunburnt

-just before dark. Evensong followed, and a singing practice for Sunday.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, September 5th.</i>&mdash;School very early on account of the blue

-bottles. I took all the old men into the Church and talked to them

-there. They paid good attention, and I hope remembered something of what

-they were taught. I tried to explain how God declared His Almighty Power

-most chiefly in showing mercy and pity. There were times when He

-revealed Himself as a consuming fire, but that was in His attitude

-towards sin, but the whole being and essence of God was love. After

-breakfast I started with Patrick for “Mandurvat” by way of “Naruru.”

-Anthony had already had Morning Prayer, so I did not stay long there,

-but pushed on for my destination. It was very hot walking, and I was

-very liquid when I arrived at Mandurvat. Sunday travelling here is much

-more tiring than week-day work, for you are obliged to respect the day a

-little, as regards the clothing you wear. I had not a very large

-congregation, and when service was over I asked the reason. The people

-then told me that a certain man called “Ala” had “tabu’d” (<i>i.e.</i> made

-sacred) the school, and prevented the people of his village from

-attending service. I protested against this, and when I had said my say,

-the plucky young teacher “Tarione” at once went to the village, and

-broke the “tabu,” rendering himself liable to a fine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70">{70}</a></span> of pigs or perhaps

-a knock on the head. “Ala” was not at home or I would have gone to see

-him. However, I believe Tarione did all I could do, and perhaps more. I

-was very much pleased with the way some of the scholars had been taught,

-and two females especially, took me quite by surprise. These people have

-no baptized teacher, and the efficiency of the school is entirely owing

-to the exertion and perseverance of two young men, Tarione

-aforementioned and “Livotari.” The latter requested Baptism for himself,

-wife and child, and Tarione has previously expressed the same wish. Now

-that the tabu is taken off, or at least broken, no doubt the scholars

-will increase, but it reflects great credit on these young fellows that

-they have built the school themselves, taught themselves to read, and do

-their best to teach their people. They are a most friendly, good-natured

-people, and act up to their limited light and knowledge. They have

-prayers and school every day, and this is very wonderful, when one

-considers the few advantages they have had. “Masa,” the leading man of

-the district, was present at the service, and was very enthusiastic in

-the after conversation. They gave us a sumptuous luncheon of various

-kinds of “loko,” and we started for Tanrig when the sun’s rays began

-somewhat to decline. At “Naruru” we stopped some time, and I addressed

-the people. Anthony afterwards came on with me to Tanrig. Here, in the

-evening, I preached on the subject of the Gospel, the Pharisee and the

-Publican, and tried to adduce some healthful lessons from the parable.

-We were somewhat inclined by nature to think more highly of ourselves

-than we ought to think, and not to be sober and humble in our self

-consideration. Because we attended service regularly, and were very

-accurate in our daily lives, we were apt to despise others around us,

-who were not so exact, and were still living heathen lives. When we came

-before God, our thought ought not to be of our own worthiness or

-goodness in His sight, still less of the depravity and wickedness of

-others, but our attitude and our language should be that of our own

-utter unworthiness and sinfulness, we should imitate the action and

-adopt the words of the Publican rather than that of the Pharisee, and

-smite our breasts and say, “God be merciful to me a sinner.” What we

-sought from all our services was to go down to our houses justified, and

-the only road to justification and righteousness was humility. That was

-the only road for white and black people alike, for teacher and taught,

-for Priest and people. How many of us would be justified that night? How

-many of us were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">{71}</a></span> growing day by day in grace, and in the knowledge of

-our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ?</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, September 6th.</i>&mdash;Captain Martin had kindly offered to tow me

-and my boat’s crew across to Opa if I could manage to be ready. He would

-come down and anchor at Kerepei, and fire a gun as a signal for me. The

-gun went, but I was not ready, and after breakfast I went down to tell

-him so. Being a French ship they kept French hours, and I found a second

-breakfast awaiting me on board. Twelve people had recruited at Tanrowo,

-and all had been bought with snider rifles, and plenty of ammunition.

-French and English recruiting laws are very different. Vessels from

-Queensland and Fiji are not allowed to give guns or ammunition to the

-natives, but the French do just as they like. While I was on board,

-another silly female was recruited. In one of her humours she had run

-away from her husband, and had come a distance of twelve or fifteen

-miles, to be engaged for three years as the slave and tool of some

-depraved Frenchman on one of the island stations. I could say nothing,

-although I knew the result of the embarkation. However, the Captain

-promised me that he would call again at the place, and see the woman’s

-friends, and if they consented to her going, he would keep her and pay

-for her, but if not, she should be put on shore again. How far or how

-truly he will carry out his promise I do not know, but he is a tender

-hearted and, I think, an upright man in his dealings with the natives.

-As soon as I was ashore, he lifted his anchor and went up the coast, but

-I have not yet heard what he did. He was very kind to our boys, and gave

-them several tins of meat and biscuits. We made a fire at Ruosi, and

-there they cooked their dinner, while after a bathe I came home. In the

-evening it rained very hard, and just before the bell went for Prayers,

-our congregation was therefore not so large as usual, and our numbers

-thinner at school. I was very tired, and went early to bed.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 7th.</i>&mdash;Very heavy rain during the night succeeded

-this morning by a northerly wind, and a hot, close, oppressive day. I

-have not felt it so warm since I have been here, and I was glad that my

-duties kept me at home, and mostly in doors all the day. Nothing here

-seems possible to be done without a feast and a dance, and all work was

-postponed to-day to do my new fence the honour of having a supper

-prepared for it. Any excuse for eating and dancing. The women were kept

-busy at the ovens cooking, and the men away at the seaside endeavouring

-to get a meal of fish, seemingly the choicest compli<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">{72}</a></span>ment possible to be

-paid to the exterior decoration of my house. The fence making certainly

-was a most laborious business, and the result, if not strikingly

-beautiful, has the advantage of being strong and durable, and hitherto

-pig-proof.</p>

-

-<p>The men returned in the afternoon with about thirty nice fish, which

-were at once consigned to the oven, and in the evening the feast was

-spread here in front of my house, and the whole village assembled to

-partake. Grace was said, and the huge quantities of food distributed,

-and eaten with very evident relish. Postprandial grace having been said,

-the company dispersed, and soon all the festal remnants, too,

-disappeared. The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever seen,

-and I sat outside my house for a long time talking with the people. Many

-were prevented attending by reason of sickness, and our numbers at

-Prayers and school were not so full as usual. After school a dance was

-proposed, but did not come off. Instead thereof, a few of the men came

-and serenaded me, very quietly and softly, and much more in consonance

-with my feelings than the noisy songs and clappings of the dance. It was

-one of those nights in which it was a “shame to go to bed,” but tired

-nature seeks repose, and soon the village was sunk in silent slumber.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 8th.</i>&mdash;Another most glorious morning followed by a

-very hot and ennervating day. After our morning duties here, public and

-private, I went with some of the boys to Ruosi. It was very pleasant

-there by the water side, and one got a perfect freedom from the blue

-bottles, which invaded my house in such numbers, this morning, that I

-had to retire. The discomfort of these loathsome creatures is excessive,

-and one gets away from them as far as possible. Not having had a washing

-day for some days, I made one to-day, and myself turned washerwoman. The

-one idea of natives with respect to clothes washing, is to pile on the

-soap agony, and leave your garments as stiff as a board, and almost as

-uncomfortable to wear. I entrusted a pair of white flannel trowsers, and

-a white flannel coat to one of the boys to wash, but I tremble to think

-what the result will be. On our way homeward we were stopped by loud

-“cooes” from the rear rank, and Patrick came running forward to say

-“They are here.” Soon a white hat appeared, and I fancied at once it

-must be the “Southern Cross,” but wondered why she had come so quickly.</p>

-

-<p>However, I was soon undeceived, and was greeted by Mr. Coates,

-Government Agent of the “Lord of the Isles” from Fiji.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">{73}</a></span> He was

-photographing the Falls, and the boys brought him on here. He was very

-amiable, and followed me on to the village. He took three views of

-different parts of the place, and after staying a short time returned

-again to the ship as night was rapidly approaching. It is so seldom that

-a white man ventures up here, that the sight of one is a seven days’

-wonder. He came quite unarmed, and was evidently not frightened by the

-ferocity of our people. It is customary to look upon natives as

-naturally wild and ferocious, and few white men trust themselves among

-them without arms. However, of course we always go armed with a Power

-more protective than a Colt’s revolver, and we, I suppose, engender

-trust in the natives by trusting them.</p>

-

-<p>The “Lord of the Isles” is a large ship of 300 tons, and has brought

-over two hundred natives from Fiji as returned labour.</p>

-

-<p>Mr. Coates told me that the Conservative Government was in power with

-Lord R. Churchill as Premier, and that the English Government had sent

-an ultimatum to the French to withdraw their troops from the New

-Hebrides, or their action in sending them there would be looked upon as

-a breach of faith and an act of aggression. There will be troubles down

-here yet I fear, with all the shilly-shallying there is over the

-annexation of these islands. The French are evidently intending some

-forward step, for they have troops both in Havannah Harbour, and Port

-Sandwich (Mallicollo), and the Nouvelles-Hebrides Company are buying

-land right and left all over these islands. It would not be pleasant to

-find myself a prisoner in France instead of a free man in England, and I

-hope there may be no fear of such a criterion.</p>

-

-<p>Our evening duties as usual ended with singing.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 9th.</i>&mdash;Another most glorious morning, and a bright

-warm day. My home duties kept me here till far on in the day, when I

-joined a large picnic party at Ruosi. Certainly these natives take life

-easily, and in their own way get a good deal of enjoyment out of it.

-They seem utterly devoid of that care and worry which kills so many of

-us, and certainly follow the Scripture injunction as to taking no

-anxious thought. Nature affords them all they want for their bodily

-comfort, and I trust religion supplies the rest. It is perfectly

-wonderful how far more merry and light hearted they are than their

-heathen neighbours, and I fondly hope the secret is within, such jolly,

-amiable, good-natured creatures they are, and so happy and friendly and

-harmonious among themselves. The sportsmen to the number of twelve or

-fifteen went off in search of wild fowl,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">{74}</a></span> or any other of the feathered

-tribe they might come across, the cooks setting to work to get the oven

-alight and start the cooking. Prawns were caught in abundance, and were

-eaten with roasted taro, as a sort of lunch, and green cocoanuts were

-secured as the refreshing beverage. It was an animated and picturesque

-scene, and in the evening the sportsmen returned with five fowls and one

-owl, an odd looking object, as the result of their day’s sport. These

-birds were soon consigned to the oven with the other food, and were

-partaken of in the evening. I came away beforehand and had my dinner

-here. It was a most gloriously still and beautiful evening and the

-native songs sung by the boys coming home, sounded very pretty in the

-distance. There seems to have been an exuberant joyous spirit about

-to-day, animating everyone, and never since I have been here, have I

-known so hearty and bright a service as we had this evening.</p>

-

-<p>After school most of the boys and younger men went to “Unduna,” a

-<i>suburb</i> of Tanrig, to a great dance, which is to be kept up till

-morning light. The occasion of it is the ‘nasu’ing of two gamals

-to-morrow, and nothing can be done without a dance. Arthur, who has

-neither the strength nor the inclination to go, has been keeping me

-company, and we have had some nice and profitable conversation. He has

-left me now, and in the stillness of the most glorious night, the song

-of the dancers breaks upon one’s ear, and makes one conscious that one

-is in the Melanesian Islands. Besides that one sound, nothing else is

-audible, and I myself am going to prepare for the quiet and rest of my

-humble couch.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, September 11th.</i>&mdash;Started this morning after breakfast for

-Tasmate by boat, and saw a vessel heading in for the watering place.

-This was the <i>Southern Cross</i> from the islands, and before long she came

-to anchor and we were on board shaking hands. We were somewhat surprised

-to see the Bishop, but he was not well and was going for the change to

-Norfolk Island. None of the party on board looked very well, but they

-were going South and would soon feel the benefit of the colder weather.

-Mr. Turnbull came back with me and spent the night here. After service I

-held a consultation with the teachers as to Arthur’s going to Norfolk

-Island, and they were unanimous that he ought to go. A. P. Huqe offered

-to stay in his place. The vessel was much earlier than I expected her,

-but none too early. The news generally, very good.</p>

-

-<p>There were five earthquake shocks to-day, one of which was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75">{75}</a></span> very severe,

-felt equally on shore and at sea. The Captain fancied the ship was on a

-rock.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, September 13th.</i>&mdash;Yesterday I spent at Tanrig. Mr. Turnbull

-slept the night with me, and spent the whole of Sunday. We had school in

-the early morning and after that, breakfast. Then followed Morning

-Prayer with a very large congregation. In the afternoon Mr. Comins, Mr.

-Plant, Mr. Brittain, the Captain, Engineer, and a large number of

-Melanesians came up to see the village and stayed to our social meal in

-the evening. They were all quite charmed with the people and the place,

-and enjoyed very much the pleasant walk. Mr. Turnbull took his

-departure, and Mr. Brittain spent the night with me. The party, with the

-exception of Mr. Comins, were not successful on the return journey and

-missing the track got into the taro gardens, and floundered about in the

-mud in the most helpless confusion. Not finding a way out of their

-difficulty they tried back, and hit happily upon the right track. This

-little episode threw somewhat of a damper upon the visit, and the party

-returned rather wet and crestfallen to the ship. Mr. Comins was accused

-of being the cause of the misfortune, and I believe those who fared

-worse than he heaped their approbrium on him when they got on board. The

-Bishop was not well, and we were all disappointed not to see him at our

-head quarters. Naturally, a visit from our Bishop is looked upon as a

-red letter day by our people, and if he cannot come the disappointment

-is very apparent. Mr. Brittain and I dined together and spent a most

-pleasant evening. It was a most glorious evening, and the calm peace of

-a cloudless sunset gave place to the most brilliant moonlight. We sat

-outside the house talking to the people until Prayer time. The service

-was a very impressive one, for I got Arthur to say a few words to his

-people before leaving them, and the thought of going away raised a great

-lump in his throat, and for some moments, although generally so ready

-and so eloquent, he could not say a word. Several times there was a

-tremble in his voice and he was nigh to breaking down, and his own

-undisguisable emotion produced a visible effect on his congregation. He

-said in the course of his remarks, that to-day they had seen a great

-concourse of people at their village, of many colours and nationalities.

-But though divided by race, differing in speech, and separated in

-locality, they were all one people with them, because through Christ

-they were all united in one, owning one God and Father of all, believing

-one Common Saviour, knit together by one Spirit, and professing one

-religion.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">{76}</a></span> Though so many and so various we were all one in Christ. And

-then he went on to speak of himself and them, still carrying on the same

-idea, and he said that although divided in bodily presence, unseen by

-the bodily eye, and separated by the wide ocean, they were still one in

-spirit and in heart. Oceans could not separate those whom God had joined

-together, and whether near or far they were still all one in Christ. And

-then almost overcome, he said it might be God’s will that they should

-never again see each others’ faces, but they must look forward to the

-great meeting time beyond the grave, where parting would again be

-unknown, and those whom Christ had joined together, and made one in

-Himself should be one for ever with Him and behold His glory. Because

-they were going to be separated it was no reason that they should forget

-each other, but day by day they should remember each other at the Throne

-of Grace, until such time as they should be reunited in this world, or

-if not, in the world to come. I followed with a few remarks, and a very

-impressive service concluded with the Blessing. After the service I

-called the teachers together to make final arrangements for our

-departure to-morrow, and Patrick was quite content to take charge of the

-school. I am very glad that he should, and I quite feel that the extra

-responsibility will be good for him.</p>

-

-<p>Arthur Huqe will go with me to Opa for the change, and return again with

-me when the ship comes back from Norfolk Island. Two Maewo lads have

-expressed a wish to go with us to Opa, and I am very glad of any

-exchange of friendship between the two islands. It will do them good to

-see other places, and enlarge their minds and ideas to see other people

-beside themselves. Moreover, being with Arthur, a native of Opa, they

-will not feel so lonely as if going by themselves. They are two nice

-boys, and I hope they will profit by the little outing.</p>

-

-<p>Mr. Brittain’s enthusiasm was quite cheering, and we were very late in

-getting to bed, being so busy talking over our mutual work, inasmuch as

-our district is one, and he knows the people here so well.</p>

-

-<p>This morning we were astir very early, and after Prayers and breakfast

-were very busy getting ready for our departure. Many hands made light

-work, and soon our impedimenta were shouldered by willing bearers, and

-we were on our way for the Kerepei. We had a most pleasant walk down,

-Mr. Brittain most cheery and appreciative all the way, and we were all

-on board very soon after the stipulated time, 10 o’clock. We had a

-light<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77">{77}</a></span> wind to start with, but it soon fell calm, and the engineer’s

-services were called into requisition. It is very hot work steaming in

-these latitudes, and the cabin especially gets very stuffy. We anchored

-at Opa between five and six o’clock, and I got my things ready for the

-start ashore in daylight. Mr. Brittain and Mr. Turnbull came with me,

-and we visited the French Trader ashore, who was said to have the latest

-telegrams. We were quite astonished, not only at the polite manner in

-which we were received, but by the neat and tastey appearance of the

-little man’s premises and dwelling house. He is evidently a man of

-considerable genius, and far more energy than most of the Traders down

-in these parts.</p>

-

-<p>His kitchen garden was a sight to behold, and although for three months

-he has had no rain he has an abundance of cabbages, carrots, onions,

-shalots, garlick, parsley, spinnach, lettuce, &amp;c. The whole garden too

-is laid out in the most natty matter, showing wonderful care and

-perseverance. Inside his house it was equally neat, and the walls were

-decorated with an enormous number of island curiosities. During the

-slack time of the year when cocoanuts are scarce he makes very curious,

-but extremely chaste, ornaments out of shells, and sells them to Traders

-at about fifteen shillings the pair. He also makes sleeve links out of

-opercules, and many other ornaments of personal adornment. He gave us a

-great basket full of eggs, and some green food for the ship. We bade the

-amiable and loquacious little man good-bye, and thanked him for his

-kindness, and then pushed on for Tavalavola where we found the whole

-village waiting for us, and Charles and Monica heading the party. I was

-most pleased to see the happy and affectionate relations which existed

-between them, and the natural and unaffected way in which she came into

-my house, and the kind care she exhibited in the bestowal of my goods

-and chattels. Afterwards when we went off to the ship she came with us,

-and went down of her own accord to see the Bishop in the cabin. We did

-not stay long on board, but bidding farewell to them all we came ashore

-for the night. I should have liked of course to stay till morning, but

-they were so crowded on board I thought it was better we were out of the

-way. It was near midnight when we finally retired for the night, and I

-was very tired and glad to get to bed. The boys are so nice and

-friendly, and come in and out of my house so naturally, that it gives

-one quite a homely feeling, and when they call me “Mama” (Father) I feel

-quite proud of the spiritual relationship.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78">{78}</a></span> I quite look forward to my

-stay here, and I hope under it God may be the means of much good.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, September 14th.</i>&mdash;Most beautiful morning, but the night was

-very cold, and I was very glad of a blanket over me. We had Prayers and

-school before breakfast, the scholars numbering about 50 of both sexes.

-I was quite astonished at the admirable way most of them read and

-answered, and equally struck with the diligent and painstaking manner in

-which the boys were teaching. The school is admirably conducted, and

-peculiarly well and thoroughly taught. The scholars are evidently very

-sharp, and one or two little boys and a very little wee girl read

-surprisingly well. Charles, the head teacher, is a most steady and

-excellent young fellow, and to him the credit of the efficiency of the

-school is mainly due. All the other boys however, work well and steadily

-with him, and I was particularly gratified to see what a helpmeet his

-wife Monica is to him. In the course of the day the older people were

-about, and I told them I wanted them to come and get instruction also,

-to which they consented. While I was at breakfast the French Trader

-called on me and brought me a most noble present of green food, for

-which I was deeply grateful. He was very amiable, most polite and

-peculiarly loquacious, and I was quite interested in listening to his

-broken English. He is a Parisian and was in the ‘garde mobile’ during

-the siege by the Prussians, which of course means that he is a

-Communist. He left me after a time, and I set to work to put my house in

-order. The boys went to ‘Tahi mamavi,’ where we have a school, which I

-hope we shall be able now to teach regularly. Meramaeto (Paskal) had

-been there living, but some trouble broke out and he had to come away in

-consequence. Now all is pacific again, and we hope to make another fresh

-and vigorous start, which I hope will be permanent. In the afternoon I

-went to see a Trader who had sent me a request to visit him, not having

-a boat of his own. His complaint was, that having a Frenchman on either

-side of him, and he doing a better trade than either they were jealous

-of him, and had threatened him with violence if he did not leave. He is

-a Scotchman and a very decent fellow. The Frenchmen had threatened also

-to lay hands on his copra, looking on him as an interloper, inasmuch as

-they suppose the French are about to annex the New Hebrides group. I did

-all I could to explain his position to the natives, and ‘Tabi’ the

-chief, and really a big man, said that while he dealt fairly with them

-he would see that he was properly protected and fairly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79">{79}</a></span> dealt with. I

-told him that he and I were subjects of one Queen, and of a different

-nationality to the Frenchmen, and that being a steady and well-behaved

-and honest man he ought to help him all he could. He had a great many

-nuts, and a large amount of copra, and I should say he was doing very

-well. He does not trade with powder, or guns, or spirit, and is

-evidently a very temperate man. He asked me to tell the natives not to

-bring the coconuts on Sunday as he wanted that as a day of Rest, and he

-asked me if I could make it convenient to come and see him sometimes on

-that day, because he wished not to forget his God in the midst of his

-mundane pursuits. He has been a sailor all his life, and has a mate’s

-certificate, I think. He has only been here five weeks from Sydney, and

-hitherto has done very well. I got back to dinner, and then went to see

-David, one of our teachers, who is sick. He was very full of his child,

-about three years old, a perfect prodigy. He told me the child would get

-into a perfect frenzy if he were not allowed to go to school and

-Prayers, and when once or twice he has been left at home he has knelt

-down in their house and gone through the form of prayer by himself. He

-will never go without his clothes, and the only time they can get him to

-take them off is to bathe. Even at night he must have on a garment. His

-mother told me too that his first thought in the morning, even before

-eating, was the bell, and he would tug at her sleeve until she took him

-up and started for the school. The same was the case too, in the

-evening. They also told me of a poor girl who had died about a fortnight

-ago. She has been most regular at school for years past, and was far

-away ahead of all the others in knowledge. She never would marry because

-she was afraid she should be debarred from attending school. She was

-most anxious to be Baptized, and when she was taken ill she still longed

-for Baptism. She importuned Charles so on the subject that just before

-her death, he sprinkled her with water in the Name of the Trinity, and

-signed the sign of the Cross on her forehead. She died perfectly happy

-and at peace, and her devoted life and peaceful death have produced a

-great and profound impression in the village.</p>

-

-<p>While talking with David, his old grandmother came in, and she is a

-woman of great age, and marvellous energy. She is now a great

-grandmother, and a bright, cheery old lady. I asked her how old she

-thought she was, and she said she really did not know, but she was very

-aged. She said that I had always told<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80">{80}</a></span> her that she “tugi vetu” (was as

-hard as flint) and it seemed as if she really was. She comes regularly

-to school, but her eyes are so dim that she can only sit and listen.

-Several old ladies attend school only to sit and listen, and they take

-great interest in coming. In the evening we had Prayers, and a very nice

-school afterwards.</p>

-

-<p>So ends my first day, and I hope all the other days I am here may be as

-pleasant and as happy.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 15th.</i>&mdash;A beautiful morning but a strong Trade

-wind blowing. After our morning duties here we sailed down to ‘Lobaha’

-to see Arudale, Didi and the school there. We pulled the boat up on the

-beach, no very easy work with the sand so soft. Most of the boys were

-down at the beach and we all went up together to the village. It was a

-hot, steep climb and we were very liquid when we got there. The boys

-brought us a plentiful supply of young coconuts and with these we

-quenched our thirst. I was glad to see the amiability which was

-manifested one towards another by our people and the Lobaha folks, for

-lately the relations have been somewhat strained.</p>

-

-<p>It appears that not long ago, the chief wife of our Head man took

-offence at his scolding her, and ran away to his younger brother who

-lives at Lobaha. Our great man was very fond of this wife, for they had

-grown up together from childhood, and she had always presided over his

-establishment in a most devoted manner. She is most queenly in

-deportment, and quite one of the finest native women I have ever seen.

-However, she went off, and “Virclumlum” was not only incensed, but very

-sorely grieved. He told the boys in most pathetic words how he missed

-his wife, how that it seemed unbearable to do without her, how that

-everything seemed void and empty now that she was away. However, once

-away it seems she was away for good, and very soon a pig arrived and

-that he had to accept in lieu of her. For a long time the people here

-have never been to Lobaha and contrariwise the Lobaha people here.

-However, we have, I hope, broken the ice again, although I am

-particularly sorry to lose so nice a woman from the place, and I believe

-she has deeply repented already of her conduct and would give worlds to

-be back again. I was glad to see a new school in course of erection, and

-the old men and women told me they were only waiting for it to be

-finished to all coming to school. Herbert has already a nice little

-building at his own place, but the people say it is too far away, and

-any excuse is enough to keep people away from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81">{81}</a></span> religious duties. Herbert

-shewed me with manifest pride, the most beautiful tool chest sent by his

-English “mother” (Miss Mount). He has been trying to use the tools, and

-I saw an attempt at some amount of straightness in the new building at

-which he was assisting. We stayed some time with him, talking over

-matters in connection with the school, &amp;c., and then we made

-preparations for home. The wind was blowing strong down the coast, so

-that a sail was useless, and we had a heavy pull. However, the boys are

-very good oarsmen, and we got along famously. I anchored the boat off

-for the night, having use for her again to-morrow. It was a very

-miserable evening, the wind blowing in strong gusts, and the threatened

-rain falling at short intervals. We had Prayers and a very long

-interesting school afterwards. The boys and girls here are very sharp,

-and learn very rapidly, and seem to understand well what they read.

-There are three classes of Catechumens preparing for Baptism, adults,

-boys and girls, all more or less proficient. Altogether, this school is

-very cheering, and with such an excellent head teacher as Charles, one

-need not fear of its stability.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 16th.</i>&mdash;After our morning duties were over here we

-rowed up to “Lo tahi mamavi,” and had school there with a large number

-of people, who were very enthusiastic to know more and to be regularly

-taught.</p>

-

-<p>There are a nice lot of boys here, and some already know how to read.

-The old men I had school with, and they seemed quite delighted to say

-the letters one by one, and afterwards to put them together, and find

-out that they made Opa words. I told them as far as I could about our

-religion, and that I had left home, and all to come and live with them

-and teach them, but that Jesus Christ pitied and loved us so much that

-He left heaven, and His Father’s glory to come down into our world to

-live and die for us. They were very attentive, and asked me to come

-again, which I promised to do on Sunday, all being well. They gave us a

-handsome present of food according to native custom, and we left for

-home. It was raining heavily and we got very wet, but the distance was

-not very great. It was a most unpleasant evening, and I was cold and

-miserable, and I began to fear ague again. Last night was most wretched,

-my house was not properly finished, and the strong gusts of wind blew me

-almost out of bed, and brought in clouds of dust. To-day the boys have

-been patching up the holes, and it is more snug and comfortable.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">{82}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, September 17th.</i>&mdash;Fine morning and very close and hot after the

-rain. After breakfast I received a visit from an English Trader, who

-lives about two miles from me. Poor fellow, in my honour he had put on a

-coat, and he was literally running with perspiration when he reached my

-house, and he did not succeed in getting cool again before he left

-although he stayed some time. He seems to be doing a very fair trade

-here in copra, and although he has not been long on the island, he has

-already several tons of the dried coconut (copra). After he left I was

-attacked with a good-for-nothing fit and did nothing all day. In the

-evening I was very queer, and thought I was going to have rheumatism, my

-legs were so cold and my limbs generally so frail. However I managed

-Evensong and school, and was not sorry to be ready early for bed.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, September 18th.</i>&mdash;General holiday here. The boys wished me to

-take them to Vuinago, fishing, to which I rashly consented. It was a

-perfectly windless day and, oh! so hot. We had a long weary pull up, but

-were very successful when we got there, and came home late in the

-evening with about eighty fish. I was very glad to be able to send ten

-to the French Trader, as a return for all his many kindnesses to me, the

-rest were divided out to different great people, and about thirty were

-kept for to-morrow’s dinner. I was very glad the boys did not forget the

-women in their distribution. I had a nice fish for my own tea, a kind of

-mackarel. Very soon after dinner it was Prayer time, and I am now

-preparing for bed being very tired, sunburnt, and sleepy.</p>

-

-<p>The boys are having great fun over the way, and it is evident the outing

-has not had much ill effect on their spirits.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, September 19th.</i>&mdash;Yesterday was perfectly calm and cloudless,

-and to-day again it is blowing very hard, with rain squalls at

-intervals. We began the day with school, and then after an interval for

-breakfast we had Mattins with a fair congregation. The females are very

-enthusiastic and attend very regularly, and the same applies to the

-boys, but the older men are very callous. There are one or two who never

-miss, but the majority are much more concerned with the affairs of this

-world, than about the one thing needful. There are one or two old

-fellows who are very regular, and who seem really to like being taught,

-but most of the men prefer the free and careless life to which they have

-always been accustomed. There are many who feel the beauty of

-Christianity, but it is so hard to them to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83">{83}</a></span> practise it. They think it

-is all right for boys and women, but they themselves cannot stand the

-bother and burden it entails.</p>

-

-<p>After Prayers we went up to “Tahi mamavi” and found the whole population

-awaiting us. We divided them into five sets, two of boys, one of youths,

-and two of old men. Charles and I taught the old men, and found them

-very attentive. Walter Tarigisibue addressed the youths who seemed

-appreciative, and Paschal and Peter taught the boys who were said to

-learn very quickly. They asked us to fix a day for coming again, and

-said they should expect us every Sunday. I had been feeling sick and

-queer all day, and coming home was violently sick in the boat. I got

-home as quickly as possible, but the sickness continued, accompanied by

-ague, and afterwards strong fever headache, and then strong

-perspiration, and this morning, (Monday) convalescence.</p>

-

-<p>However, I am very washed out and good for nothing, and shall rest at

-home. I am disappointed however, for I meant to have gone to the other

-side of the island in the boat, and had made all my preparations. Now I

-must wait a bit.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, September 21st.</i>&mdash;Reasonably convalescent again, but weak and

-not fit for much. It was a most unpleasant day however, with fitful

-squalls of rain and wind, and I could not have gone far even if I had

-wanted. The boys were busy planting “Virelumlum’s” yam garden, and were

-kept hard at work all day. I was not surprised, for I previously knew it

-to be the custom here for the chief’s wives to prepare his food in the

-gamal. Generally speaking, women are not admitted within these edifices,

-and more especially here, but to-day Virelumlum’s wives, three or four

-in number, were busy with the men getting ready the evening meal. I

-asked them where they were going to eat themselves, and they said with

-some naïvete, “Oh! that is a secondary matter, we have to get our

-masters’ dinner ready and shift for ourselves as best we may.” It would

-be impossible for them to eat any food cooked in the gamal, and so

-religiously have they been brought up under this restriction, that they

-would probably sooner die of hunger than attempt to appease their

-appetites with what to them is sacred food, or at least forbidden, and

-they are more faithful to the laws of men, than was Eve to the law of

-God. And, I suppose as spiritual death was the judgment on Eve’s

-disobedience, so would physical death be the penalty in case of their

-transgression. Human life is not more highly valued here than it is in

-Ireland, and a woman’s life is not much accounted of, and death is the

-common penalty for very<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84">{84}</a></span> trivial offences. Here it is universally

-averred that woman is at the root of all the evil that transpires, and

-poor things, they are too often the victims where the men go scott free.

-Here the females are much in excess of the males, and naturally polygamy

-is widely practised. The big men however, get the lion’s share, and it

-is no uncommon thing to find a troop of women in the households of the

-chiefs, varying from ten to fifty or even one hundred. All no doubt are

-not wives, but slaves and beasts of burden, and these big guns do

-nothing themselves but impose all the duties of the house and garden on

-their women. I do not think I am maligning the Opa men when I say that I

-look upon them as hideously lazy, but of course that results in large

-measure from their imposing their own natural duties on others, whom

-they find ready or obliged to do it for them. It is quite different at

-Maewo, where monogamy now mostly obtains, and where the men take an

-active and a man’s share in all out door employments. However Virelumlum

-was very active bustling about among his women, and I saw him

-shouldering off a big burden of yams, following up the rear of a troop

-of preceding females.</p>

-

-<p>Here time seems of no importance and no account, and it wearies me

-sometimes to see people squatting about for hours at a time, whistling

-or otherwise killing time. It is an ennervating climate no doubt, but

-that is no excuse for laziness in people who have been born and brought

-up in the country. I often urge laggards and idlers, who make my house a

-convenient lounge, to go to work and plant their fences, but as nothing

-can be done out of due course, what was, is, and ever must be the same.</p>

-

-<p>In the evening there was a great feast spread for the workers, and the

-day finished like all days here, with Evensong and school. This little

-village is a bright spot in the surrounding darkness, and I trust in

-time its influence for good will be more widely felt than even now. The

-attendants at the school seem wonderfully staunch, and the teachers very

-earnest, and I pray God that their vigorous instruction may not be lost

-on the heathen people around them. But there is the same callousness

-attending religious practice as about everything else here, and although

-they see the beauty and the benefit of Christianity, the effort is too

-great to reduce its blessed precepts to daily practice.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 22nd.</i>&mdash;By-and-bye I shall have as much trouble

-with my white flock, as with the black. The white Traders have got some

-feud one against the other because of difference of nationality, and I

-had to listen again to accusations<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85">{85}</a></span> from an Englishman against a

-Frenchman, as to plots against his life and property. Poor man, he is

-new to the business, is doing well, and fancies that he is taking the

-bread out of the Frenchmen’s mouths, but there is room for all. I found

-he was not only filled with gloomy fears himself, but had imbued the

-chief under whom he lives with warlike intentions also, and I had to put

-a veto upon any resort to open violence. I told the chief “Tabi,” that

-he must keep his hands from all white men, and if he had any complaints

-to make, to make them in the proper quarter, and not take the law into

-his own hands. He must learn the sacredness of human life, and not rush

-to bow and arrow and club for every fancied affront or grievance. As

-long as I was here I would do my best to see that peace and harmony

-reigned among whites and blacks, but I would countenance no violence or

-bloodshed. After this I went to the Frenchman at Lan̈an̈qa, and he

-seemed very surprised to think that he was accused of any ill feeling,

-and judging from his good nature I should imagine his surprise was

-genuine. However, I said it was very hard if a few white men living on

-so large an island, could not live at peace, even if their nationalities

-were various, and if they could not agree among themselves, what could

-be expected of the natives? I quite like the natty little man, and

-certainly he is the best colonist I have ever seen down here. He is a

-most handy man and always employed, and as far as industry goes, he sets

-the natives a very excellent example. The neatness of his house and

-surroundings too, ought to have a good effect.</p>

-

-<p>The fine day turned into a most dirty, rough, unpleasant evening, and we

-went to Prayers in a perfect downpour of rain. After Church there were

-great searchings of heart among the elders, and I publicly announced

-that I wanted the names of those who wished for Baptism. To the surprise

-of everybody, and to the delight of not a few, four women stood up and

-said almost simultaneously “Inew” (I). These quiet, demure creatures,

-generally so terribly afraid of the men, and always so shy in public,

-must have been influenced by a stronger Power than any they had hitherto

-known to make this public profession, and it produced no small sensation

-on all present. Two men also said they wished to be admitted to the

-Sacred Rite, and I hope they will soon be followed by many more. Charles

-Tariqatu’s influence here is great, and the fruits of his thorough and

-earnest teaching are beginning to be felt. He is so thorough and good

-himself, that his example and influence have all the more effect.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86">{86}</a></span> There

-will be about twenty to be baptized on Sunday, the nucleus I trust, of a

-good Christian population hereafter.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 23rd.</i>&mdash;A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day.

-Fortunately there was a great festivity here, and I was not left without

-something to do all day. I trust I did not spend quite an unprofitable

-time. I begin to see distinct light through my work here now, and I can

-see how the seed sown through long years is at last beginning to bear

-fruit. I am eminently satisfied with the work of the boys here, and I

-can see that Charles’s influence pervades everything. One man to-day,

-who never has taken much interest in our teaching, came to ask me if

-Martin Tan̈abei might not come back from Norfolk Island, and live with

-him and his people as teacher. Another told me that my words to him of

-former years have quite changed the course of his life, and no doubt he

-is as different as possible to what he formerly was. I was under

-engagement to go to Tahimamavi, but when we were launching the boat the

-rain came down in such torrents that I reluctantly turned back. The

-evening was as bad as the day, and most uncomfortable it was in my

-leaking, cold house. We had Evensong with a good congregation, but a

-great gust of wind put out the principal lamp in the very middle of the

-service, and made it somewhat dismal.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, September 24th.</i>&mdash;Fine bright morning and a very hot day.

-Having failed to go to “Tahimamavi” yesterday I resolved to go instead

-this morning. We had a hot, but a most pleasant row up the coast about

-three miles, and found the people awaiting our arrival. They had been

-disappointed that we did not come yesterday, but supposed that the rain

-was the occasion of our failing in our promise. Such a nice number of

-bright boys assembled for school, and a great many grown-up people. The

-boys were divided into two classes, and two of the boys taught them

-their letters. The older men I undertook to teach myself with the help

-of Peter. I made a few remarks at first and then told Peter to say a few

-words. I was quite unprepared for what followed. It is not often I have

-seen such an effect on a native audience, and his flow of natural

-eloquence from beginning to end quite held the men enchained. With a

-great deal of energy, and a vast amount of earnestness, he went into the

-thick of his subject, and left an impression which I feel sure must,

-under God, have a good effect. At the end of his remarks he said very

-modestly, “You may perhaps think it presumptuous in me to stand here in

-your presence and speak like this, you who are old<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87">{87}</a></span> enough to be my

-fathers, and so high in rank all of you as to look upon me as a mere

-nonentity, and indeed I am amazed at my own audacity. But I speak about

-things of so momentous import that I take the chance of your

-displeasure, and submit myself to whatever verdict you may choose to

-return. Were I only concerned about things which belong to our heathen

-state, I should take the place of a humble listener and you should do

-the talking, but here all is different, for out of the abundance of the

-heart the mouth must speak, and that heart and mouth, thank God, are

-mine.” There was not even an assent of approval, all were so impressed

-with the message delivered so eloquently by a mere boy. I said at the

-end, after a long pause, for I did not like to break the spell which

-seemed to hold them all, “Our son has spoken good words to you which I

-hope you will not soon forget.” And they all said, “Who can forget

-them?” I was also much pleased with the way the boys had got on with

-their reading after so few lessons, and altogether I felt that a “great

-door and effectual had been opened here,” for which I was most thankful

-to Almighty God. Now it remains but to put a good teacher there, and I

-think a wide harvest may by God’s blessing be soon gathered in. We came

-back with a fair wind in the afternoon, and in the evening again we had

-torrents of rain. However, we had our full complement at Prayers, and a

-very nice time afterwards.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, September 25th.</i>&mdash;I had intended to-day to have gone to

-Walurigi, but it set in to a wet day, and I was obliged to stay at home.

-However, I had a succession of visitors, and among them some Bushmen

-from a long way inland. The boys told me some odd stories about them,

-how ignorant they formerly were and what strange things they did in

-consequence. When they first came down to the sea they fancied it was

-hungry, because the surf came rolling in, as they said, “mouth wide

-open.” They therefore gave it food to eat. Knowing only the taro root,

-when first getting possession of a yam, they fancied it was firewood and

-put into the fire. Some many years ago they came down here in quest of a

-pig, and while waiting in the gamal their eyes caught sight of a tin

-with the picture of a lobster outside. Thinking this was something very

-wonderful they stole it, and marched off homewards with it instead of

-their pig. Arriving at their village home the chief made a great feast

-for it, and placed it in the midst of the village dancing ground, and

-went through the various ceremonies as if it were a pig in verity.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88">{88}</a></span> The

-ceremonies over, the chief advanced to the tin, and with his foot,

-squashed up the tin as if he was treading the life of a pig out, with

-the inevitable result that he almost cut his foot off. Now-a-days of

-course they are more enlightened, and the men who were here to-day I

-found very amiable and intelligent. All “salt water” natives despise

-Bushmen, and they have always stories to tell of them. There is somehow

-a natural feud existing between them, but the agression I must say,

-comes generally from the Bushmen. They do, certainly, very unaccountable

-things, but they are always forgiven, and their conduct explained by

-saying, “Oh, they are only Bushmen,” or as they say here “(Taute).” A

-small vessel passed here in the afternoon, and anchored off M. Moussu’s

-place “Ian̈an̈qa.” In the evening there was the greatest excitement, the

-boys returning from fishing saw a boat under sail coming down the coast,

-and the general idea was that it was Mr. Brittain. I was led into the

-swim, and made active preparations for his reception, but he never

-turned up, the sail belonged to some other boat.</p>

-

-<p>Heavy rain and strong wind squalls again in the evening.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, September 26th.</i>&mdash;A day which will ever be memorable to me,

-here at Tavolavola. To-day I Baptized twenty-five people, and it has

-been indeed a day of great spiritual enjoyment to me. Before I was up in

-the very early morning, I heard boys in the school house reading their

-baptismal service over, and all through the day there are some who have

-never had their books out of their hands. The teachers have done their

-part most admirably, and I thank God for such earnest children. We had

-school before breakfast, and a most excellent school too. I went from

-class to class leaving A. P. Huqe to discourse the older men. The boys,

-nothing daunted by my presence, kept their instruction going, which was

-generally very thorough and good. The earnestness of all was quite

-remarkable. After school and breakfast we had Morning Prayers, a nice

-hearty service, and after that we started by boat for “Tahimamavi.” Here

-we found the people awaiting us, and soon we were assembled for school.

-Charles gave the old men a very good and eloquent address, and three

-other classes were provided for. On our way home we stopped for a few

-minutes to learn the news from the schooner at anchor, but they had none

-except that the French troops were still at Port Sandwich, and did not

-intend to move at present, and moreover, that the Mail Steamer had a

-contract to come as far North as that Port. This does not look like

-clearing out of the group, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89">{89}</a></span> Captain told me they had not the

-least intention of moving at present. Before long we shall know the fate

-of these islands, but I sincerely trust they may not fall into the hands

-of the French. In the afternoon I was most pleased to see the teachers

-selecting boys and youths, more especially connected with them by ties

-of kindred, and taking them for a walk and serious talk, as is the

-custom at Norfolk Island. Everyone was so filled with enthusiasm that

-the chief himself sent to say he wished to be Baptized, but inasmuch as

-he has already four or five wives, and contemplates taking more, I could

-not listen to his petition for a moment. To put away his wives would

-lower him in rank at once, and in the choice between God and Mammon, he

-felt the difficulty of putting away any of his women, and I was obliged

-to leave him with his god Mammon.</p>

-

-<p>In the early evening we decorated the Font, and when the building was

-lit up at night with lots of candles, it looked quite nice. The service

-was quite one of the most stirring I have ever taken part in, and the

-ready responses one by one, of men and women, produced a great effect on

-every one present. The women, generally like poor frightened, startled

-creatures, answered out marvellously, with a vigour and earnestness,

-such as no one was prepared for. The ceremony of Baptizing twenty-five

-people took some time, but no one seemed fatigued, so interested were

-they in what was going on. Among the number Baptized were a blind man,

-and a blind woman, but they, like the rest, were wonderfully

-self-possessed. Poor Diu, whom I called Kate, after Miss Lodge, who had

-nursed her so faithfully at Norfolk Island, was perfectly ecstatic in

-her delight, and seemed endued with special strength, having risen from

-a bed of sickness on purpose to be present.</p>

-

-<p>I gave a short address afterwards, and was followed by Charles, who

-spoke well to the subject, and in very good taste considering the number

-of outsiders present.</p>

-

-<p>We finished with the Nunc Dimittis, a fitting conclusion to a most

-beautiful service.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, September 27th.</i>&mdash;A most beautiful day, and a whole holiday. I

-told the scholars in the morning that I wished to see only smiling and

-happy faces all day, and to hear of nothing but joy and gladness because

-of the occasion of the holiday, viz., to celebrate the spiritual

-birthday of twenty-five brothers and sisters. Food in large quantities

-was provided, and we managed to secure two pigs for the feast. I think

-it was the brightest and happiest day I have ever known here, and our

-festivities were shared in by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90">{90}</a></span> a number of neighbours. Contrary to

-strict custom here, the women and girls of the school prepared the food

-under the trees on the beach, the boys chopping the wood and doing the

-heavy work. The scene was a very animated one, and all seemed to be in

-the very best of tempers. In the evening the ovens were opened, and the

-distribution of the food was made. Unfortunately I was not very well

-myself, but that did not interfere very much with the rest. In the cool

-of the evening the boys played a number of their native games, very

-pretty and very picturesque, with a pretty song to each. When darkness

-closed in we had Evensong, and then the happy day was brought to an end.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, September 28th.</i>&mdash;This morning after our duties here, we

-started for a long voyage to “Vagebeo,” which means something like “down

-West.” “Beo” is the word used there for “down,” while ours here is

-“Hivo.” “Vage” is a particle put before the name of a place with a sense

-of motion towards the place, thus when we are going to Maewo we are here

-going “vage Maewo,” or Araga “vage Raga,” or Marino “vage Marino,” and

-so when we are going to the Beo people we are going “Vage Beo.” We call

-the people of those parts “Meraibeo.” They, on the other hand, term

-these parts “Taulu,” “up East,” and when coming here they say they are

-going “Vageulu,” because our word for “up” here is “Ulu.” We here are to

-them “Natiulu.”</p>

-

-<p>We had a light, fair wind down, and did the journey in good time. We

-hauled up our boat at a place called “Duidui,” where a Mr. Wilber,

-commonly called “Jim” by white traders, and by the natives, “Timi,”

-lives.</p>

-

-<p>He came down to welcome us, and extended his hospitality to me as long

-as I chose to stay. I was not sorry to accept it, and I made his

-residence the basis of my operations. He has been here for many years,

-and is well known and very much liked by the natives. He does a very

-extensive business there in copra (the dried coconut), &amp;c., and deals

-very kindly, liberally, and most honourably with the people. He has very

-nice premises there, and a large establishment. He got us refreshments

-served as soon as we arrived, and after resting for a time he went with

-me to the village of the great man of those parts “An̈ga,” or as the

-Traders call him, “anchor.” I knew him formerly as a very large and

-powerful man, but long sickness has reduced him to a terrible and

-pitiable state of weakness and leanness. He asked me to come and settle

-in those parts and start a school for his people. The natives there are

-very numerous and extremely amiable, and I feel<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91">{91}</a></span> sure a great deal might

-be done if I could see my way to settling there. A fine young fellow,

-his son, was very friendly, and also asked me to come and teach them. I

-said I would see what I could do if they would spare me some boys to go

-to Norfolk Island to be taught. This they said they would do, as they

-were tired of the Labour ships. We got back, and Mr. Wilber indulged us

-in a most sumptuous repast. The boys, my boat’s crew, being tired, we

-had Prayers early, and they retired for the night in very comfortable

-quarters provided for them. We, Mr. Wilber, another white man and

-myself, sat talking till far on into the night, and when I retired it

-was to the ample recesses of a large four poster, with sheets and other

-delights and comforts of civilization. I felt I had turned my host out

-of his bed, but he would insist on my sleeping where he had put me, and

-I acquiesced. The next morning, <i>Wednesday, 29th September</i>, it was very

-hot and calm, and I determined not to start till the afternoon. After a

-sumptuous lunch I went to another great man’s village, and received a

-warm welcome. There they told me that they would build me a schoolhouse

-and give me boys, and would sell their land to no one else if I would

-come there and occupy it. Altogether the cry from Macedonia to come over

-and help them was very cheering, and I must try what I can do for them.</p>

-

-<p>At the end of this period of my work, it is pleasant and thankworthy to

-find the Morian’s land stretching out her hands unto God. We started

-soon after I got back for “home,” and had a long, toilsome journey up.

-However, the boat’s crew were very plucky and merry, and didn’t seem

-much to mind as the boat’s head was towards Tavolavola. I myself was

-very seasick in the smooth water, and very soon was in the shivering fit

-of the ague. I made as good a bed as possible in the boat, and lay down

-till I got here. On arrival I found Mr. Brittain and party here, and

-felt sorry for him that I was such a sorry host. I certainly felt

-cheered by his society, and we sat quite late talking about matters of

-mutual interest.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 30th.</i>&mdash;After a night of fever and strong

-perspiration I got up this morning feeling fairly refreshed, and a good

-deal better, but weak and not fit for much. Mr. Brittain and his party

-went to Lobaha by boat, but I stayed at home to rest. In the afternoon

-we walked up to M. Moussu’s place, and he showed us with great pride his

-garden and poultry yard, and all the other many things which his

-ingenuity devised, and his cunning hand has fashioned. He gave a

-splendid quantity of green food,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92">{92}</a></span> which we afterwards enjoyed for

-dinner. Prayers concluded the public part of the day, and Mr. B. and

-myself sat till late talking here in the quiet of a most pacific and

-mild evening.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 1st.</i>&mdash;Fine day. After our morning duties here were

-over, Mr. Brittain and I went up to Tahimamavi, and stayed some time

-with the kind-hearted people.</p>

-

-<p>Before leaving, Mr. Brittain bought a number of native Opa mats, which

-are much treasured at his station at Araga. The Opa people are great

-hands at mat weaving, and are possessors of a greater quantity and

-variety than any natives I know. Since the introduction of European

-calico the manufacture has somewhat diminished. However, when it comes

-to getting so much tobacco, a great many still turn up, and for the

-labour it must be to make them, the price is perhaps inadequate except

-they get all they ask.</p>

-

-<p>We came home in the very hot sun, and Mr. Brittain sat down to dinner

-alone, I myself being too sick to join him. All the evening I was fit

-for nothing, and lay down all the time. I did not get up for church, and

-only finally left my bed to go back to it again for the night. I felt

-miserably shabby in my position as host to treat my guest so, but I

-could not help it.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 2nd.</i>&mdash;Dull threatening morning and squally. Mr.

-Brittain and party decided to go although we tried to detain them. The

-day, however, cleared, and as they did not return we concluded that they

-had stood across for Maewo. I was feeling weak and miserable when the

-kind little Frenchman, M. Moussu, appeared to take me away to have lunch

-with him. I had agreed to partake of his hospitality on this day, but

-had quite forgotten all about it. However, my seediness was excuse

-enough for my forgetfulness, and here he was with his boat to take me

-off. He is a first rate cook, and treated me to such a display of

-luxuries as I have never before seen in these parts. The choicest soup,

-&amp;c., &amp;c., and later on in the feast a most excellent dish of beche de

-mer. This I liked very much, and should fancy it was very nourishing. He

-complained of my want of appetite, and J. was sorry I had not more when

-so many good things were there to be eaten. He brought me back again in

-his boat, and I felt pretty well all the evening. We had Prayers, and

-singing practice afterwards, preparatory to Sunday. The evening was

-fine, and I trust Mr. Brittain and party are well on their homeward way.

-I wished him to stay till Monday, but he was anxious to get back for

-Sunday.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93">{93}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 3rd.</i>&mdash;Last night I fancied A. P. Huqe was at the point

-of death. To-day I felt very ill myself, and have been fit for very

-little all day. I managed to get through my Sunday duties here, however,

-and Charles, Mera, and some others went to Tahimamavi, where they had

-the usual school. I feel very comforted at the earnest manner with which

-these good people are stretching out their hands at last unto God. I

-pray that His Spirit may descend upon them in ample measure, that they

-may continue as earnest to the end as they have now begun to be. I

-trust, too, the zeal and perseverance of the boys may keep up, so that

-the teaching may be regularly carried on, and the Word of God become a

-savour of life unto life.</p>

-

-<p>At present they are very earnest and even indefatigable, but I am

-somewhat afraid lest white supervision may have something to do with

-this, and when I am away the present enthusiasm may die down, and things

-be allowed to go on as they were before.</p>

-

-<p>Would to God I had a few more teachers like Charles Tariqatu, a man in

-whom truly the Spirit of God is, the most earnest, humble, patient,

-God-fearing, Gospel-loving youth Opa has ever known. I can only commit

-the matter to God, and He will provide as seemeth Him best.</p>

-

-<p>In the evening I was very sick and could eat no dinner, and went to bed

-with ague. Could not go to Church, and Charles took the service and

-preached.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, October 4th.</i>&mdash;Not very well. I had promised, if well enough,

-to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine

-day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very

-ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot

-flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted

-a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and

-comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he

-was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give

-him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him

-good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed

-aguish and shivering.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, October 5th.</i>&mdash;We had got through our morning duties, and I

-had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting

-for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable

-<i>Southern Cross</i> close at hand. It was not long before she was at

-anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer

-on board from some distance<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">{94}</a></span> off, and when we got alongside, the first

-question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was

-good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop

-and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was

-Mrs. Selwyn in <i>proporia persona</i>, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I

-was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her

-by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most

-glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our

-ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again

-ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were

-going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my

-surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were

-very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous

-at Norfolk Island.</p>

-

-<p>One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on

-board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is

-forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under

-steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about

-8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead,

-and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night.

-In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the

-cool night air ashore.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, October 6th.</i>&mdash;On board the <i>Southern Cross</i>. The tide did

-not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part,

-because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together

-preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn

-went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was

-quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too,

-was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another

-night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However,

-I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of

-sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, October 7th.</i>&mdash;Mrs. Selwyn kindly came in with the Bishop to

-see the last of me, and A. P. Huqe and myself sat some time after our

-farewells had been said, deliberating the stupendous undertaking of

-getting to Tanrig. We were both much refreshed by our stay on board, and

-quite ready for our stay on shore again. I shall certainly not want for

-medical comforts and dainties, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95">{95}</a></span> even medicines, for the Bishop was

-kindness itself in lading me with one good thing after another, until my

-paraphernalia of travel have increased to the no small consternation of

-my bearers. When the vessel was well away we made our start, and with

-the expenditure of most of our strength, and certainly of all our

-moisture, we got at length to the top of the first hill. Then it was all

-plain sailing, and we got to Ruosi, where we rested and bathed. In that

-refreshing water I seemed to have left all my ailments and distresses,

-and I was quite another being when I started again for Tanrig. Hither we

-arrived in due course, and Huqe, too, seemed quite like another being.

-It is so nice getting back here again, with the cool invigorating air

-and the cheery welcoming faces all so pleasant. I miss Arthur, though,

-very much, and now that Patrick has gone in the ship, the place is

-almost devoid of teachers, ourselves excepted. The first evening ashore

-was fine, and the moon shone out brightly as we were coming from

-Prayers.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 8th.</i>&mdash;It rained very heavily during the night, and

-this morning and all day it blew very hard, with heavy rain squalls at

-intervals. I did not go out all day, and indeed, I had enough to keep me

-at home. The people were away busy with their gardens, and the women at

-home preparing the food for the men. I had almost interminable visits

-from one and another, during the day, to see the pictures which I had

-taken of the place, and which Dr. Codrington has printed and sent down

-to me. They were quite charmed with them, and were much more clever in

-finding out faces and details, than ever I expected they would be. The

-day drew rapidly to a close, and the evening was fairly pleasant, but

-somewhat cold and damp. We had a fair attendance at evening school, and

-I gave them an address instead of school.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 9th.</i>&mdash;A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. The

-rain poured down, and the village looked as if it were going to be

-flooded. It kept on, too, without intermission almost the whole day, and

-I could not stir out of doors. However, I had plenty of occupation, and

-the time passed rapidly. It cleared slightly towards evening, and it was

-fine overhead for Evensong. Nothing seems to keep these hardy people

-indoors, and most of them have been paddling about all day in their taro

-gardens, utterly regardless of the state of the elements. In spite of

-all inconveniences we had quite a large evening congregation, and few

-seemed the worse in any way for the unpleasant day. It was a cold, raw

-evening, and I am not sorry that bed-time is so near.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96">{96}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 10th.</i>&mdash;The day somewhat finer overhead, but still very

-squally and boisterous. As soon as I was up and dressed we had morning

-school, with a large and general attendance. The first two classes are

-supposed to say their Sunday Collect at this school, and answer

-questions on it. The school begins with a Hymn and Prayer, and finishes

-with the Lord’s Prayer and the Grace. The third class learn the Church

-Catechism, and the remainder of the school read from a small manual

-containing the first seven chapters of S. Matthew’s Gospel. The school

-lasts about an hour. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice

-service, and I Baptized the infant son of Thomas and Lily by name and

-special request&mdash;Penny. A. P. Huqe, Harry, and Agnes stood sponsors. The

-Font was very tastefully and prettily decorated by Arthur, and the

-service was very solemn.</p>

-

-<p>After Matins I assembled the Catechumens for instruction, and I told

-them that I wished everyone present fully to make up his or her mind to

-the dignity, the solemnity, and responsibility of what they were

-undertaking. They are the last unbaptized inhabitants of Tanrig, and of

-their own accord have pressed for Baptism. They number over twenty, and

-seem very much in earnest, especially the older men and women. It is

-most gratifying to me, and a matter for which I cannot sufficiently

-thank God, that just at the end of this era of my missionary life, I

-should see such zeal and earnestness exhibited by the people among whom

-I have worked so long, and apparently with so little result. I shall

-leave behind me here, please God, an entirely Christian village, in

-profession at least, and I trust in reality also. There are one or two I

-wanted to leave out, but they seem so anxious to be Baptized, that I

-leave their future with God and the blessing of His spirit, and accede

-to their request. We have here now, all the organizations of a Christian

-community, a good school, an excellent Church, and a zealous

-congregation. Surely one can labour on steadfast and unmoveable, seeing

-that one’s labour is not in vain in the Lord. At other stations also,

-people are crying out for Baptism, and before I leave, please God, I

-shall admit many into the Fold of Christ’s Flock.</p>

-

-<p>It was too wet to get about during the afternoon, but we had our usual

-social meal in the school-house, and in due course, Evensong. This was

-one of the heartiest and most inspiriting services I have ever known

-here, and the congregation felt the same, the singing, the responses and

-all, went with a swing and harmony which shewed that the people’s hearts

-were in it. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97">{97}</a></span> gave a discourse on the Gospel for the day, the story of

-the widow’s son at Nain, and likened them to the young man, and Christ

-coming and touching the bier and saying stop! to the powers of evil who

-were carrying them, dead in trespasses and sins, out to their burial.

-The young man sat up and began to speak, and our first act, when

-delivered from the wrath to come, should be to sit up and speak and

-declare God’s praises for all He has done for us in His dear Son our

-Saviour. We had singing afterwards, and then dispersed for the night. A

-great many of the congregation lingered outside, to wish me good-night.

-Thank God for these real days, how different to the old heathen times,

-when the people were still lying in the darkness and shadow of death.

-God grant that they may know Him and the power of His resurrection, and

-be filled with His fulness and grace.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, October 11th</i>, was much finer, and the sun shone out in rich

-splendour. The people at this time of the year are very busy planting

-their yam gardens, and every day they are at work from morning until

-night. The men do the toiling part, the women the cooking. They work in

-parties, and many hands make light work. The harmonium being out of

-order I stayed to try and mend it. I was interrupted in the midst of my

-work by visitors from Tasmouri and Tasmate, and retired to my house to

-talk with them. When they left I finished my job, and was far more

-successful than ever I dared to hope. The bellows had burst, and the

-wind escaped in such quantities that it was hard to get any music at all

-out of the instrument. I could only make a patch up affair of it, but it

-was so far successful that a volume of sound was emitted such as I have

-never heard from it before, and the addition to the singing in the

-evening was very marked. I had intended to have made an excursion during

-the day, but it was too late when I had finished, and I had to content

-myself at home. After Evensong I took the Catechumens for a lesson, and

-afterwards joined my own class in the school previous to the Roll Call.

-The evening was fine, but blustery and raw, and I fancy the people were

-tired, for there was quietness soon after school.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, October 12th.</i>&mdash;Very rough, squally morning and a terribly

-windy night. Sometimes I fancied I was going to be blown over altogether

-in my frail native hut. However, these little tenements stand a great

-deal, and here I am safe and sound at the beginning of a new day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98">{98}</a></span></p>

-

-<p>After early Morning Prayer we had our usual school, and breakfast

-followed. I have no refreshment before this meal, and sometimes I feel a

-little famished, but am generally ready for the breakfast when it comes.

-It is not a very sumptuous meal at the best of times, plain rice and a

-cup of coffee, but it does very well, and stops the craving of the

-appetite as well as anything else. The strange thing is that at home I

-scarcely ever touch rice, having a positive aversion to it, but here I

-make my breakfast on it nine mornings out of ten.</p>

-

-<p>After breakfast I had school with a very earnest Candidate for Baptism

-who comes from Mandurvat, and wished for special instruction. I hope I

-managed to explain to him any difficulties he has experienced in the

-nature and meaning of the service. When he was dismissed I wended my way

-with some of the boys to Ruosi, where I bathed and washed my clothes. I

-do not know what it was, but when I got home I was quite exhausted, and

-somehow I don’t feel as strong as I did at the beginning of the season.

-We had very hearty Evensong, and a nice class with the Catechumens, who,

-I think, are very much in earnest, especially the older men. There are

-about twenty in this class, the last remnant of the heathen population.

-With their Baptism, Tanrig will cease to have any remains of heathenism,

-and in name at least will be able to call itself Christian. The usual

-school was held, and the first two classes were engaged in solving the

-mysteries of simple addition, one of the girls succeeding in doing a six

-line sum without a fault. This same girl, Emily by name, is rather a

-creditable production for this out of the world place. She reads well,

-answers well, and writes well, besides being quite an adept at figures.

-A couple of years at Norfolk Island would make a very useful woman of

-her. There are seven others in her class who all are very fair scholars,

-and take their turn at teaching.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, October 13th.</i>&mdash;Very fine morning and very warm. After our

-morning duties were over there was soon a dead silence over the village,

-the people all going off to their several occupations in their gardens.

-I busied myself, and got very hot over a little simple carpentering&mdash;but

-oh! the tools, they were so blunt and so rusty. However, I managed to do

-fairly well what I wanted to do, viz. to enlarge the Communion table,

-and generally to give a more Churchy appearance to the East end of our

-Church. I proposed to myself a bathe after my labours were over, but I

-was too exhausted, and stayed at home in preference. However, the shades

-of evening soon stole on, and my little cooks came to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99">{99}</a></span> get my dinner,

-which, frugal as it was, I enjoyed with the best of sauce&mdash;hunger. The

-evening was calm and fine, and I sat outside my house and enjoyed myself

-with a book. In the evening they came to tell me of the death of a poor

-heathen woman who has lately come here, and has been for years past a

-confirmed invalid. Poor thing! the women came back in the evening to

-find her cold and stiff in death, without a soul near her to say a word

-of comfort or to close her eyes in dying. She was buried in the

-moonlight, and her memory consigned to oblivion with her body. Her sad

-story afforded me a fitting text for the Catechumens afterwards, which I

-trust was not unproductive of seasonable lessons and wholesome and

-solemn warnings. Our singing school subsequently was very nice, after

-which everyone seemed glad to turn in for the night.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, October 14th.</i>&mdash;Fine bright morning, and a most beautiful day

-with a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties I was left

-alone, the people being away almost at once to their gardens. They work

-very hard at this season, and the men do the heaviest part of the

-labour. At present they are engaged in fence making, usually here with

-bamboos, and very neatly they make them. It is very hot, fatiguing work

-for them in the broiling sun, but I suppose habit has so far become

-second nature with them, that they don’t seem to notice the heat or mind

-a little extra perspiration. The cool waters of the river always afford

-a grateful and refreshing anticipation when the work is once over.</p>

-

-<p>I amused myself with making a Cross to surmount the Communion table, and

-give a little more of a sacred nature to the Chancel of the Church. With

-my poor tools and limited necessaries at my disposal I flattered myself

-that I had done fairly well, and I afterwards attempted a picture

-gallery on the walls of my house, which has attracted all the boys in

-the village this evening, and they have taken more interest in these

-pictures than ever I have seen them before display. The launching of a

-life boat, and the English Bishops have been the chief attractions, and

-everyone, I think, has counted over the Bishops dozens of times. There

-being no one here in the afternoon I went alone to the river and enjoyed

-a refreshing bath. This evening it is blowing heavily, but there is a

-good moon and it is fine overhead. Instruction to the Catechumens, and

-the evening school finished a nice day.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 15th.</i>&mdash;After our morning duties here and breakfast I

-started with a party of four for Tasmouri. It had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100">{100}</a></span> rained a little

-during the night, and the bush was still wet this morning. The sun,

-however, shone out in Tropical brilliancy, and travelling was very

-unpleasant. The hottest time is just after a shower, and to-day proved

-no exception to the native idea on the subject. I don’t know when I have

-felt so hot and disinclined for exertion. However, the journey had to be

-made, and on I went somewhat mechanically. We arrived in due course at a

-rippling brook which the natives call “Na Marou,” and here we refreshed

-ourselves with its cooling waters and quaffed away our thirst. We

-rested, too, awhile, and then shouldering our impedimenta on we trudged

-again. The dense bush afforded a grateful shade generally, but every now

-and then we came out into the open glade, and we felt by experience for

-how much we were indebted to the shelter from the sun’s rays. Our next

-resting place was “Qaruqatu,” and then we were in a very liquid

-condition, and could gladly have lain down and given up further exertion

-for the day, but we were not half-way to our destination yet, and when

-we had cooled a bit we moved on to the village, where we found the “Uta”

-natives awaiting our arrival. They had prepared food for us and procured

-a good supply of coconuts, and we stopped for some time with them.

-However, the day was hastening on to-night, and we were driven to move

-on when we would willingly have sat on in idleness and inactivity. We

-started again for “Vanua garaqa” where the school house is, and there I

-found my friend and teacher “Takele,” whom I was going to Baptize on

-Sunday, and with whom I was anxious to have some previous conversation.

-He is a good man, and a staunch, and “Uta” owes him a great deal for his

-steadfast and consistent upholding of the Truth, and his fearless and

-bold protestations against evil. He had also food and coconuts ready for

-us, and I am afraid I went to sleep for a while, as the boys were

-refreshing the inner man. However, we were not yet at our journey’s end,

-and shouldering our traps, on we went again.</p>

-

-<p>After leaving Uta there is a very steep descent, really down the face of

-the cliff, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward.

-The road, however, is good, if somewhat precipitous, and my poor long

-shins ached again before I got to the bottom. Yet we did get to the

-bottom, and there we found a most lovely natural bathing place, the

-delight and comfort of which we were not long in testing. One can

-imagine how refreshing it must inevitably be to get off one’s dripping

-garments, and get under a cool and delicious shower-bath. I felt much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101">{101}</a></span>

-more “fit” when I got on my walking garments again and prepared for

-another advance towards Tasmouri, which I must say has never seemed so

-far and the journey towards it so fatiguing. We found Samuel and the

-Tasmouri people waiting from the village, and of course had food and

-drink in readiness for us. It was very cool and nice there, and being

-now near our destination we were not in a great hurry to move. Tasmouri,

-however, was reached towards evening, but oh! how hot the place is! a

-change of raiment scarcely mended matters, and I was soon almost as

-liquid as before. My evening meal made matters worse, and didn’t I long

-for a little grateful coolness? However, that seems an unknown quantity,

-and I gave up the idea of discovering it more here than anywhere else.

-Evensong followed in due course, and afterwards I had the Catechumen

-class for a short instruction. When these duties were over I was fit for

-bed, and this is the reason of the shortness and scantiness of my

-account of this day.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 16th.</i>&mdash;At Tasmouri. Most beautiful morning, but oh!

-so hot. Within doors it was absolutely unbearable, and I was glad when

-the people proposed to go to the seaside. The place selected was

-“Ron̈onawo,” and there it was bearably cool. A “Guardian” supplied me

-with companionship, and it proved to be so pleasant there that we spent

-most of the day, the boys bathing, fishing, and generally enjoying life,

-and I reading and seeking new names for the Baptismal Candidates. The

-heat again in the evening when we came home was very oppressive, and so

-great had it been in the house during the day that my candle I found all

-melted and doubled down in the candlestick.</p>

-

-<p>My dinner did not mend matters, but rather made the heat the hotter. I

-could not get cool for the life of me, and I had to grin and bear the

-discomfort. I do not know a much hotter place than Tasmouri and trust I

-never may, the wonder is how people live there at all. The fact I

-suppose is that the natives live very little within doors except at

-night, but during the day are engaged in their gardens, or otherwise

-enjoying the free and easy life to which they are the heirs by nature.

-It was intensely hot at Evensong, and oh! how one sighed for relief! An

-interesting Class with the Catechumens finished a pleasant day, on the

-whole, in spite of the heat. While we were at Evensong, and even while

-praying for her, one of the Christian young women, by name “Nesta,” was

-given a happy issue out of all her afflictions. She has been lying in a

-state ‘twixt life and death for more than two months,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102">{102}</a></span> and died this

-evening. She was one of the first baptized here, and a nice, clever girl

-she was, and a great favourite. The people asked me to bury her

-to-night, and I consented. About midnight the grave was finished, and I

-went with the people to the graveside. A weird, but picturesque scene it

-was, the moon in full splendour high up in the heavens, the blazing

-native torches casting a lurid glare upon the quiet figure of the dead,

-resting in her final bed and wrapped in native mats, the husband

-seemingly heart-broken, wailing beside the open grave, the women sobbing

-all around, myself with a lantern and vested in a surplice at the head

-of the grave, and the people all subdued and solemn around. I read the

-Burial Service, and when I came to “earth to earth,” “ashes to ashes,”

-“dust to dust,” Samuel threw on the earth according to custom, and at

-the end of the service we sang a funeral hymn, which sounded very solemn

-in the strange stillness of the night. I gave an address to the people,

-and words never seem to me more appropriate, and apposite than on this

-occasion. When I had finished my part of the service I came away, and

-left the grave diggers to their unenviable duty.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 17th.</i>&mdash;Most glorious morning and meltingly hot. We had

-school before breakfast, and I took a class of adult women. I was quite

-surprised at their readiness in the Church Catechism, which they said by

-heart from beginning to end. The Collect also they had got by heart and

-read with great facility. With the proficiency of the school generally I

-was amply satisfied, and teaching has evidently not been thrown away on

-the majority of the scholars. After breakfast we had Prayers, and the

-discomfort of the heat was not lessened by the hateful buzz and presence

-of the blue bottles. The service was hearty and comforting, however, and

-I asked the Catechumens to stay afterwards.</p>

-

-<p>With them I had a nice class, and was satisfied that they were in

-earnest. One man who has two wives, and has long held out against

-Baptism, has now given in and put away one of his wives. It is a

-peculiarly hard case, as he has children by both, and the women have

-both lived with him for a great number of years. Both offered to go, and

-gave him his free choice as to the one he chose to retain and which to

-banish. He chose the elder of the two, his first wife, and the other

-consequently left, but I could not help being sorry for them all, and at

-the earnest supplication of the divorced wife I admitted her and her

-young child to Holy Baptism. It was no inconsiderable pang to the

-husband to relinquish his second wife, and I could see that the

-sacrifice both<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103">{103}</a></span> he and she were making had cost them a great deal of

-suffering, but the rule is hard and fast, and I could not go beyond our

-invariable practice to admit a man with one wife only to the Rites of

-our Holy Church.</p>

-

-<p>In the evening I Baptized seventeen people of all sizes, ages, and

-sexes, and Tasmouri now lays claim to the proud title of being the first

-entirely Christian village in Maewo. It has not now a single heathen

-member, and I thank God and take courage from the success which His Word

-has had here through His Grace, and to Him alone be the honour and

-glory.</p>

-

-<p>After the Baptism, and at the end of Evensong, I gave an address, and

-was listened to with marked attention, and I pray God my words may not

-have been spoken in vain. It was indeed to me an occasion of rejoicing

-in the Spirit, and I do not think I shall soon forget the reality and

-heartiness of that service. As I sat here in my house afterwards, all

-the newly Baptized came to bid me good-night, and the woman and child

-who were going into new quarters were not among the last or the least

-grateful for the events of the evening, for their present loss will be

-their eternal gain, and to have Jesus as Friend and Husband must

-compensate any one, with a grain of mustard-seed faith in their hearts,

-for the loss of husband and earthly father. None the less I could not

-help feeling sorry for the pretty, gentle creature who will begin

-henceforth a new and different life&mdash;this, of course, humanly speaking.

-I was very tired when the day was over, and everyone seemed glad that

-resting time had come.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, October 18th.</i>&mdash;Fine, indeed glorious day, but consequently

-very hot. According to standing custom here, I gave a whole holiday to

-the school and, we went for our usual picnic. The fatted pig was killed,

-and we all proceeded to Ron̈onawo to prepare it for dinner. The women

-did the cooking, the men lending ready and very efficient aid in getting

-and cutting firewood, &amp;c. A book gave me employment throughout the day,

-and there was a good deal to interest one going on. The scene was far

-from being unanimated and devoid of interest, and the day soon hastened

-on to its termination and natural darkness. The ovens were opened in due

-course, and disgorged their plentiful contents. After grace the food was

-distributed, and before long we were wending our way homewards.</p>

-

-<p>After Evensong a request was brought me that the people might have a

-dance, and of course I consented. There was not a very numerous company

-of dancers, but they kept up their energy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104">{104}</a></span> for an hour or two in a

-manner in which I should be very sorry to imitate them, and the result

-may be imagined in a place where the smallest movement throws you into a

-bath of perspiration. This evening appeared those mysterious things like

-seaworms. They only come about one night in the year, but the people not

-only know the very night of their appearance, but almost the very hour.

-When they are expecting them they get ready a peculiar kind of deep

-basket with a wide mouth, and long cane torches, and when these worms of

-the sea are observed, the people shovel them by handsful into their

-baskets, and great quantities are in this way taken. They are of course

-esteemed a great delicacy, and by cooking and re-cooking, they are kept

-for a very long time as an accompaniment to their different kinds of

-food. Their flavour is somewhat peculiar, but by no means disagreeable,

-and I can quite understand a native esteeming them a delicacy. Their

-wormy nature, I am afraid, gives me a false sentiment against their

-niceness. Considerable numbers were secured this evening, but the “haul”

-was said not to be a very successful one.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, October 19th.</i>&mdash;This morning we were early astir and getting

-ready for our homeward journey. We had Prayers and school and then

-breakfast, after which we put our traps together and prepared to start.

-The boat was coming for me, so that our first journey was to Tasmate,

-and no joke at that, hot as it was. However, we got there finally, and

-before the boat. It was very warm walking, and I was very liquid again

-by the time Tasmate was reached. While we were there waiting for the

-boat a big steamer passed Southwards. She had not the appearance of a

-man-of-war, but was too large to be down this way for no purpose. She

-was steaming fast and well, but looked to be rather battered and

-dilapidated. She appeared to have come from Fiji or from somewhere in

-that direction. Later on we saw her again up the coast, whither perhaps

-she may have gone for water. Our row homewards was terrible&mdash;the heat

-was simply awful and pelted down upon us piteously without a breath of

-wind. However, we got to our boat cove eventually, and hauled up our

-boat, and then, as night was drawing nigh, we prepared to start at once

-for Tanrig. We had scarcely got off before we were caught in a heavy

-thunderstorm, and the rain came down in torrents. The roads, always bad,

-were now fearful, and having a good deal of water before us to wade

-through I had taken off my shoes and socks. My feet were very sore when

-I got to Ruosi, where, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105">{105}</a></span> spite of present dripping condition, we all

-bathed, and we got home like drowned rats, to find that very little rain

-had fallen here. After tea and Evensong I was ready for bed, being very

-tired and foot-sore.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, October 20th.</i>&mdash;I was very glad of a good excuse for a

-thoroughly quiet day, and this was given me in a perfect downpour of

-rain, which continued without cessation until past midday, and I could

-not possibly get out. It cleared, however, in the evening, and I got out

-to church and to my Catechumen class, after which we had our usual

-secular singing. These Wednesday evenings are certainly looked forward

-to, but they do not satisfy me that much is taught by them. The people

-are very slow at picking up new things, and except occasionally are far

-from enthusiastic about the performance, yet I suppose they enjoy it or

-they would not attend in such numbers. I was perfectly inundated

-afterwards by people coming to wish me good-night. Shaking hands has

-become quite an institution here now, and you cannot meet or quit anyone

-except the process of hand grasping be gone through. However, it is a

-good step to the right direction and I give so much encouragement to it

-that my own arm runs the risk often of being wrung off.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, October 21st.</i>&mdash;Busy here all the morning, and having got

-very hot and tired with what I was doing, I came to get my towel to go

-for a bathe, when lo and behold, down came the rain in a perfect

-torrent, and I had to swallow my disappointment and stay at home.

-However, I started again at my picture gallery, and got a good deal

-done. I must try and finish it at some future time. It is a source of

-immense diversion to not a few, and some of the boys are never tired of

-coming to find out what the pictures mean. I was not very well all day,

-and after the Catechumen Class was very glad to retire for the night.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 22nd.</i>&mdash;Was very sick all the morning, and went to

-Ruosi to try and drown my cares in the river, but was only partially

-successful. Came back appetiteless to an uninviting dinner, and did not

-feel equal to much during the evening.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 23rd.</i>&mdash;Very busy all day with preparations for

-to-morrow. Anthony came to make final arrangements about his Candidates.

-Determined to go to “Naruru” for the ceremony. Was not well all day, and

-everything seemed a business. Final class with Catechumens.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106">{106}</a></span></p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 24th.</i>&mdash;A very full but an exceptionally joyous day. We

-had school before breakfast, but that meal followed directly after. Then

-came Mattins. Then, followed by all the male population of Tanrig, I

-went to Naruru. The house there being very small I determined to have

-the Baptism out of doors. I would have gone to the river-side but it was

-too far. While Anthony and the others were getting ready the place and

-the Font, I said a few final words to the Candidates, who were already

-well prepared. Anthony’s wife was among the number, and a fine,

-intelligent young woman she is. There were nine Candidates in all, and

-the service was a very solemn and impressive one. It was the first time

-I had ever Baptized anyone in the open air, but a great deal of

-solemnity was not lost by it. The whole service went very nicely, and I

-hope the Candidates were fully alive to the importance and dignity of

-the occasion. When it was over I said a few words to the Congregation

-and Baptized, and soon after we hastened home, having another Baptism at

-Tanrig. During my absence A. P. Huqe had made a most chastely pretty

-Font, and brightened up the Church with flowers, &amp;c., until it looked

-quite charming. The Baptism took place in the evening, and seeing that

-there were as many as twenty-eight Candidates it was not a short

-service. It passed off very nicely, and I think made a great impression.

-I preached afterwards, and told them that this would be my final Baptism

-for some time to come, and urged them all to remember their Baptismal

-vows and to try and live more and more up to them, by the grace of God.

-Tanrig is now a Christian village, and the number Baptized here is

-considerably over a hundred. There are suburbs, however, which are still

-lying in comparative heathen darkness, and these we shall now have time,

-please God, to attack. There is much rejoicing here to-day, and a fresh

-start has again been made. I have Baptized thirty-seven people to-day,

-and I thank God and take courage.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, October 25th.</i>&mdash;General holiday, and great Christening Feast at

-Ruosi. All the world turned out from here, and we were joined by many

-from Naruru. Four large pigs were slaughtered, and a prodigious quantity

-of yams and taro prepared. It was a most lovely day, and the sunshine

-overhead seemed to have found its way into every heart, for there was

-the greatest harmony and good will manifest on all sides. Men and women

-shared the burden of the day alike, and the result in the evening was a

-most grand spread of perfectly cooked food, more than sufficient for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107">{107}</a></span>

-all the great number present. All shared alike, and the females had

-great junks of pork as well as the men. Formerly the women ate very

-little animal food, but now Christianity has broken down the middle wall

-of partition, and taught them that all are One in Christ. We came home

-in the evening, and dinnerless I had to go to bed with an attack of ague

-which lasted me far on into the hours of midnight. I did not go to

-Prayers, and indeed I don’t know what happened. There was a dance, I

-believe, but I didn’t hear anything of it.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, October 26th.</i>&mdash;Very weak and seedy all day&mdash;did not go out

-anywhere. However, I had lots of little things to do here at home, and I

-busied myself over them. Visitors from Uta came in the evening. The

-people told me they wanted to take away one of our women whose husband

-is just dead, but I refused and told them they had women enough already.

-They were very frightened I believe, and I don’t care, I trust they

-were, for I meant what I said. They are quite enough as they are to live

-and die in heathen darkness, while here the poor woman will have a

-chance at all events of hearing and living.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, October 27th.</i>&mdash;Beautiful day, but I was not particularly

-well to enjoy it. I was up betimes though, and got through our morning

-duties before breakfast.</p>

-

-<p>Perhaps this is not a wise plan, but it is more convenient and therefore

-I submit to it. You certainly get leisure and quiet afterwards, which

-one would fail to secure previously to Prayers and school. I like to

-give the people every opportunity of getting away early to their

-gardens, and therefore, perhaps, I sacrifice myself. Many people could

-not stand this going without breakfast so long, but it is a meal I was

-never very hearty at, and the want of which very strangely I feel the

-least.</p>

-

-<p>Our “Bush” friends brought down some prints for sale this morning, and

-there has been a tremendous competition for them. There were six yards

-of Turkey red handkerchief stuff, which were finally bought by a young

-married lady, “Ann,” for a large pig. The Bushmen still go

-“clothesless,” and returned Labourers find a ready market here for their

-linen goods, which they bring home from Queensland or Fiji. Pigs are of

-much more value to them, for of course they still keep up the old native

-custom of purchasing rank by means of these animals, while here now they

-are only looked upon as so much meat. I have been long trying to get a

-proper hold on these people, but I cannot flatter myself that I have yet

-succeeded very far. They live a long distance off, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">{108}</a></span> the road is very

-inaccessible, but I trust in time they may be reached from hence. They

-are very amiable and very friendly, but they are somewhat terrified at

-anything new. However, they come here very often, and I don’t think they

-go away unprofited.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, October 28th.</i>&mdash;Fine day with strong fresh Trade wind

-blowing. I was busy all day here at home doing little odds and ends of

-things preparatory to my anticipated visit from Mrs. Selwyn. The people

-were all away busy at their gardens, and I was left alone most of the

-day. I could not find time to get to Ruosi, so I went without my

-customary dip in the river.</p>

-

-<p>The people were all back in the evening, and their lively chatter and

-merriment were a pleasing contrast to the ghostly stillness which had

-reigned throughout the day. We had Prayers late because the people were

-late with their dinner.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 29th.</i>&mdash;Not a very fine day, and threatening for rain.

-Directly after school the people were away to their gardens, but three

-or four boys were working for me here. They felt the slight shock of an

-earthquake, but I did not perceive it. The undivided opinion here is

-that earthquakes are the precursors of rain, and often indeed I have

-known it so to result, but it seems rather an extraordinary law to lay

-down. However, there are abundant signs of a no very distant downpour,

-and the prophets may have a chance of being right in their present

-conjecture. We were very busy all day, but towards evening snatched time

-enough to go to Ruosi for a bathe. The rain kept off well, but there was

-a sprinkle in the evening, and evident signs of a great deal more before

-very long. I have felt the heat here very oppressive for the last few

-days, and by the appearance of the sky we must soon have some dirty

-weather with thunder.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 30th.</i>&mdash;The storm came on us with a vengeance this

-morning at daylight, and kept on for a long time. At times the flashes

-and thunder peals seemed simultaneous, and the crashes were peculiarly

-heavy. I have never known a more severe storm in the Tropics, and as for

-the rain it simply poured down in torrents.</p>

-

-<p>I did not get up till late, and Mattins were later than usual. However,

-being a holiday it did not so much matter. In my house it was as dark as

-night, and all day it has been very sombre and dull. Rain has kept on

-continuously all the time, and it has been impossible to move out. The

-people, however, in spite of wet and dirt are up and about, and do not

-seem to mind the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109">{109}</a></span> weather. Many here, indeed, prefer the rain to the sun

-for making journeys and doing certain works. Rain does not seem to give

-them cold or ague, and I suppose that custom has become second nature.</p>

-

-<p>I could not get out all day except to my duties, and these wet days at

-home are somewhat trying, especially when you are anxious to be about.

-It was somewhat finer in the evening at Prayer time, and we had a good

-congregation, but it did pour down while we were at service, and this

-gave us a good excuse for a long singing practice.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 31st.</i>&mdash;Another wet and intensely disagreeable day.

-However, there were spells of fine weather, and during those we

-performed our duties. School came first with a full house, the elder

-classes saying the Collect for the day and the Church Catechism, and

-answering questions on the former, the juniors reading from school books

-and large printed sheets. When school was over I was quite prepared for

-breakfast, and eschewed rice for once in a way for prawns which the boys

-brought me. Sometime after breakfast we had Mattins, a very nice service

-and especially well attended. I experienced much distress of mind from

-the illness of my friend “Virelumlum,” the Opa chief who came over with

-me. He has been very ill all day with acute inflammation of the lungs,

-and we have had to keep hot water applications going, off and on, all

-day. He moans for home, too, and there is no chance of getting him

-there. While at Opa, A. P. Huqe was so ill, and here now I have my other

-visitor a patient on my hands. In the evening I was down myself with

-ague and could not go to Church, and had no dinner.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, November 1st.</i>&mdash;Terribly stormy, rough night, and a most

-unpleasant day, the disagreeableness of which was not decreased by the

-continued serious illness of my visitor Virelumlum. All day yesterday

-and again to-day it has been a continual anxiety and care to me, and I

-have been dabbling about in the mud and wet dancing attendance upon him.

-He has quite a serious attack of inflammation of the lungs, and I have

-had to keep hot flannels going almost continuously, and rack my brains

-to find out what to give him to keep up his rapidly decreasing strength.

-In addition to his sickness he has developed a craving for home, and a

-strong impression that he is going to die here, which with natives

-sometimes is actually equivalent to mean that they will not recover, and

-when a native makes up his mind to die, he in most cases does die. There

-is no remote possibility of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110">{110}</a></span> getting my friend home in such weather as

-we are having, and he is killing himself with worry. If the weather were

-fine I would willingly take him across to Opa in my boat, but that is

-scarcely possible in a gale of wind and a downpour of rain. On the whole

-it has been a most anxious and unpleasant day. Being “All Saints’<span class="lftspc">”</span> Day I

-gave an address in the evening instead of School, and no one, I fancy,

-was sorry to be indoors out of the cold and wet. I had to paddle off

-after every one was quietly within doors to feed my patient and make him

-comfortable for the night.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, November 2nd.</i>&mdash;A most terrible night, wherein it blew with

-almost hurricane violence in the squalls, with a perfect deluge of rain

-accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning. I was not sorry or

-ungrateful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. My

-first business when I got up, was to trudge off to my patient, whom,

-thank God, I found better, but all day long since I have had to look

-after him, for he is no exception to the idiocy of all natives, who when

-they feel a bit better, rush off and do some extraordinarily foolish

-thing. It was a terrible day throughout, and I was so fortunate in

-keeping my man within doors, that this evening he was visibly on the

-mend, and likely to make a good and I hope a rapid recovery. I read him

-a most strong lecture this morning about his craving for home, and told

-him he could not possibly get there in this weather, and that he was

-better where he was even if he could. I said he never would recover if

-he went on distressing himself about getting home, and told him that he

-was killing me too, by continually crying for what he could not possibly

-obtain. And what a lot of spilt milk I have cried over these last few

-days in my regret at having brought a big man here at all. But the

-inutility of weeping is more apparent to me than his crying for home is

-to him. I can hardly say what I have done to-day either to benefit

-anyone else or myself. This evening I have turned away from my dinner,

-leaving it untasted, and I feel that I must go to bed.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, November 3rd.</i>&mdash;An attack of ague last night has made me

-feel weak and good for nothing this morning. However, I had to get up,

-and the prospect outside was as dismal as ever. Rain and wind and

-gloominess. My patient, thank God, is most decidedly better, and if he

-takes care of himself will do very well now. I have had a fire in my

-house all day, and with Dr. Codrington’s book on the Melanesian

-languages, have got on very pleasantly. I should like, however, to see a

-little sunshine, and one has a right to expect it now in the height of

-summer. I am<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111">{111}</a></span> dreadfully afraid Mrs. Selwyn’s visit to me will be

-impossible, when the ship arrives the roads will be so impassable.

-Towards evening it cleared a bit and I was able to move out, but

-generally speaking, everyone has been kept close prisoner to-day. The

-people who always seem to me to love paddling about in the wet,

-expressed a strong disinclination to move from their houses, and in the

-absence of other occupation or amusement, have been asleep most of the

-day I fancy. A native’s capacity for sleep is unbounded, and perhaps a

-fortunate thing for him, but he can wake at any time, day or night, and

-get up straight away. We had our usual Evensong and singing class, the

-weather keeping fairer until we had all got indoors again in our several

-houses, when down came the rain. There is a sweet, lulling, comfortable

-sound in rain when you are safe indoors, or perchance in bed, and sleep

-seems to come unwooed. I practice here what I seldom do anywhere else,

-read in bed, and far on in the stillness of the solemn night, I read on

-and on with keen enjoyment and a sense of rest, for one gets tired of

-sitting in a land devoid of easy chairs and sofas. The usual posture of

-a native is to squat on his heels or else to recline, naturally our high

-seats are foreign and uncanny to them. I cannot myself squat for any

-length of time, and at times I sigh for the comfort of a good easy

-chair.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, November 4th.</i>&mdash;Very wet, dispiriting morning, and

-threatening for another stormy day. It cleared off, however, and barring

-showers we have had a fine day.</p>

-

-<p>A most interesting ceremony took place here to-day called “uli meroana,”

-(<i>i.e.</i> “untieing war.”) The event ought to have come off long ago, but

-the chief actors in the sad drama which led to its necessity have been

-somewhat dilatory. Sometime since the natives of “uta” (the inland as

-distinguished from the shore) attacked a village in our district and

-killed three people. They were the agressors and the sole actors&mdash;the

-people did nothing but pack up their goods and clear out, some flying in

-one direction and some in another. The majority took refuge in this part

-of the island and have never done anything in the way of retaliation,

-but have always gone armed since and been on the alert, not with the

-object of revenging their injuries, but from fear of further attack.</p>

-

-<p>However, thank God, all has been quiet since, and the Uta people have

-the fire coals so heavily heaped on their head, that being first in

-agression they have been the first to make amends. They came down

-yesterday in great numbers, all armed, of course,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112">{112}</a></span> and bringing three

-pigs with them. Our people were all present too, very fully armed, and

-also bringing three pigs. The chief man on the Uta side and the attacker

-stood out in the open with his pig, and the chief among the injured

-stepped out, and walking around the pig took it from the other, first

-passing his hand over the pig’s back and head and the rope he was held

-with, and then delivering the scape pig to the injured. This was done

-thrice, <i>i.e.</i> with each several pig. Then the ceremony was changed to

-our side and the like performance gone through, and the pigs delivered

-one by one to the attackers. There was thus a mutual exchange and no one

-was the loser, indeed so far from it that had the pigs been made for the

-occasion and cast in the same mould, they could scarcely have been more

-of a size, shape, and colour. It would seem, according to our ideas, as

-if the aggressors ought to have paid all the pigs without receiving any

-in exchange, but no, native custom seems to be different, and a fair

-exchange must be made. After the pigs had been delivered, there was some

-speechifying and a good deal of after talkey-talkey, and the quondam

-enemies became the best of friends. I hope they will continue so, I am

-sure, and I think they will. I made a little speech, in which I

-glorified peace and good-will, and denounced fighting and bloodshed. I

-have never seen such a concourse of people in Maewo, certainly, and the

-place perfectly bristled with guns and poisoned arrows. The natives,

-although they seem somewhat careless with these weapons, are really very

-careful, and an accident seldom or never happens through carelessness. I

-do not like the poisoned arrows, and keep clear always of them, for the

-smallest prod from one would most probably prove fatal. Very soon the

-vast concourse had dispersed, and the pigs, the mediators, were escorted

-off to their new places of residence, but I do not fancy they felt the

-weight of the aggressor’s repentance, or the forgiveness of the

-attacked. A small coal of inward anger would very soon kindle again the

-blaze of war, for after all I fancy there is not much love lost between

-the two parties. With one of my Opa boys I came back here to get my

-towels, and then made a start for Ruosi and Kerepei, being anxious to

-bathe, and also to see the road the boys have made for Mrs. Selwyn’s

-feet to tread in. I must say after my observation of it, that if her

-anticipated visits everywhere have the same effect of causing people to

-mend their ways, she may well be satisfied with her trip down here. The

-road was not good before, neither is it perfect now, but the boys have

-certainly made a most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113">{113}</a></span> passable track, the question is whether a lady

-can manage the first steep climb. In anticipation of this, they have

-strained a strong climbing reed, like the rail of a balustrade, and by

-this it is hoped she may be able to ascend. The road otherwise is now

-very good. A delicious bath at Ruosi was made doubly delicious by some

-days’ privation, and my present liquid condition.</p>

-

-<p>We got home here in the evening, and I dined very late, but with much

-more of an appetite than I have had for some time. In the evening A. P.

-Huqe being laid up, I gave an address at Evensong, instead of school.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, November 5th.</i>&mdash;The glorious 5th November, Guy Fawkes, of

-unhappy memory! Very wet night, but fairly fine day. People very busy

-to-day, so they asked me to relinquish school, which I did. I made

-preparations for photographing a pretty part of the river, but the rain

-came down and I had to give it up. However, my dry plates are at an end,

-and the few I have left I must keep for a peradventure of something good

-before I leave.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, November 6th.</i>&mdash;Squally, unsettled sort of day, after a very

-rough night. Great preparations were being made here in the morning, for

-the Bishop’s and Mrs. Selwyn’s advent. When it was done I went with the

-boys to Ruosi, where I sat and watched their sports and gambols in the

-water, and thought how the one touch of nature makes the whole world

-kin. Human nature and boy nature is the same everywhere, and these boys

-are just like every other boy except in colour. They had a great spur of

-fun and frolic, and boy-like pleasure produced no languor or

-tediousness. I made a descent to “Wosawosa,” and looked in vain for the

-ship.</p>

-

-<p>Back and dined, and everything as usual.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, November 7th.</i>&mdash;The Mission schooner arrived with all on board

-well. After Morning Prayer I went down to the vessel, but it was too

-dirty for Mrs. Selwyn to come up to the village, but in the evening Mr.

-Cullwick came back to Tanrig and spent the night with me. The account of

-the work in the islands farther North, was very cheering, and it had a

-fresh and charming meaning, as told by Mrs. Selwyn in the full

-enthusiasm of her first voyage into these new but beautiful regions. The

-evening services in our little native Church was a sad and solemn one,

-for I said my public farewell to the people, in prospect of my leaving

-them for a long time, inasmuch as it was decided for me to go to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114">{114}</a></span>

-England. Mr. Cullwick was very much struck with the beauty of the

-service, and the devotion of the worshippers. When we bid them “Good

-night” they all said, “Ah! this will be the last good night for a long,

-long time.”</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, November 8th.</i>&mdash;The Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn came to stay with me

-at Tanrig. It was fortunately a most beautiful day, and Mrs. Selwyn,

-partly carried and partly on foot, made the journey without any great

-fatigue. Of her visit, she herself no doubt will write.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, November 9th.</i>&mdash;We stood across to Opa, distant about

-twenty-five miles from this part of Maewo. The people were in floods of

-tears at the final parting, and a general wail went up from all, as the

-boat drew off from the shore. At Opa we anchored for the night.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, November 10th.</i>&mdash;The Bishop and I were rowed ashore early,

-and examined the school at Lotahimamavi. This is as yet in embryo, but

-the people were very nice and most friendly, and seemed quite in earnest

-about their school duties. A proper school house has yet to be built,

-but this they have undertaken to do as soon as they have dug their yams.

-Their yam digging answers to our harvest. Leaving this place we went on

-board the <i>Southern Cross</i> to breakfast, and afterwards to examine the

-school at Tavolavola. The Bishop was much pleased with the state of this

-school, and the great proficiency attained to by some of the young

-scholars. Prizes of knives, calico, beads, fish-hooks, &amp;c., were

-distributed and then we went to Lobaha, another school. Before leaving

-Tavolavola, Mrs. Selwyn was anxious to see how the natives got up the

-coconut trees. There are no branches of course, to hold on to, and many

-natives tie a cord around their feet, and some use an ingenious

-arrangement with cord for their hands. But these natives go up hand over

-hand without any help or assistance. The lad in question was up the

-tree, had thrown down green coconuts, and descended again with wonderful

-and astonishing rapidity, with nothing on his hands or feet.</p>

-

-<p>Before we got to Lobaha it began to rain heavily, and I was overtaken

-with a fit of ague, and had to lie shivering on the beach while the

-Bishop went alone to examine the school. It poured in torrents all the

-way home, and I was very miserable.</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, November 11th.</i>&mdash;Away early from Opa and started for Araga,

-distant over twenty miles from this part of Opa.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115">{115}</a></span> There the school was

-examined, and we left in the evening for the South end of the island.

-This we reached on</p>

-

-<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, November 12th</i>, the Bishop going ashore in a strong gale of

-wind, and in pelting rain, to examine the school and bring off Mr.

-Brittain, who had been spending some days there. They were not long

-before both were on board, and Mr. Brittain, thank God, quite well.</p>

-

-<p>When the boat was hauled up we stood out to sea, and so on our homeward

-journey for Norfolk Island, which we reached after a stormy but quick

-passage on November 18th, and found all well at home. “Praise thou the

-Lord Oh! my soul, and forget not all His benefits.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116">{116}</a></span>”</p>

-

-<h2><a name="Rev_A_BRITTAIN" id="Rev_A_BRITTAIN"></a><span class="smcap">Rev.</span> A. BRITTAIN.</h2>

-

-<p>For the year 1886 my contribution will be concerned with the time

-between April 3rd and November 18th. On the former date the <i>Southern

-Cross</i> left Norfolk Island on the first trip of the year, and on the

-latter we reached it again at the end of our voyaging season. I had

-never before left for the islands on the first voyage, but our plans

-gave me a longer stay than usual. My own island, Araga, was to take up

-the usual time, but I was to make a stay also in the Bank’s Islands,

-which would be out of the ordinary course. As it turned out, however,

-the arrangements were of necessity altered, and no stay was made in the

-Bank’s Islands.</p>

-

-<p>The <i>Southern Cross</i> left Norfolk Island with a wind very strong, but

-altogether fair. None of the regular Araga boys were on board, as they

-were to return home on the second voyage, according to our plan. One

-lad, however, we had with us, whose presence in the <i>Southern Cross</i> was

-quite out of the ordinary course. The explanation concerning him will

-show something of the individual efforts made in various places to give

-some sort of instruction to those who are taken from our islands to work

-on the plantations and elsewhere. On the whole they are simply

-neglected, with the result that they return home having learnt almost

-all the vices, and none whatever of the virtues, of the white man.

-Personal interest has in some cases induced thought and work for their

-benefit. In Sydney was one instance of this. The visit of a young lady

-to Norfolk Island on the occasion of the Consecration of the Memorial

-Chapel increased her interest in the Mission, and on her return to

-Sydney she sought some kindred work. A class was established for natives

-from the islands engaged in different kinds of work in the city, and it

-has proved most successful. Several of the lads are from our own

-islands, and as it has happened that the Bishop has been in Sydney at

-convenient times, he has twice held Baptisms of members of the Class.

-One of these Baptized lads made a request that he might<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117">{117}</a></span> be taken home

-in the <i>Southern Cross</i>. His home was Araga, and he came to Norfolk

-Island in readiness for the first voyage of the <i>Southern Cross</i>. It was

-apparently five or six years since he had been taken away in a labour

-vessel to Noumea, whence he had found it possible to make a move to

-Sydney. And this was the end of his life in foreign countries&mdash;he was

-returning home a Christian, with, in some respects, a surprising

-knowledge, with a perfectly good character from all who knew him, and

-with a great desire to do something for the benefit of his

-fellow-countrymen. All that had hitherto been done in Araga is in the

-northern part of the island, the remainder of the island being partially

-known only, while the extreme southern end was quite unknown and

-inaccessible. The lad, Thomas Rorsal, gave us to understand that his

-village was right in the south, close to the neighbouring island of

-Ambrym, and we had then the prospect of breaking into new parts.</p>

-

-<p>On April 8th, that is on the fifth day from Norfolk Island, we were in

-the passage between Araga and Ambrym. A boat was lowered, Tom’s

-belongings placed in it, and we pulled in shore to find his village,

-which he could not distinguish from the vessel. A clump of cocoa-nuts

-was recognised by him, and at last we pulled into a good sandy beach

-with very good landing, where a crowd had already collected for our

-reception. Their returning brother was at once recognised, and his goods

-shouldered with great readiness. The Bishop’s bad foot forbade his

-leaving the boat, but I landed and went up with the people to their

-village, which was quite close at hand, though invisible from the beach

-owing to the very thick bush. Tom had previously expressed his

-determination to build a house for school purposes as soon as possible,

-and I, through him, told the people of our plans and something of what

-we hoped to do among them. We thereupon, in consequence of the readiness

-they expressed, chose a convenient site for the house, and I promised to

-make a boat voyage to them as soon as I could conveniently get away from

-the northern district. It was evident that there could not be a great

-population in the immediate neighbourhood, as there was only a small

-level tract lying off the beach, backed up by somewhat high hills, which

-would doubtless form a separate district from the beach villages.</p>

-

-<p>On the next day, the 9th, we arrived at the north end of the island,

-having been almost becalmed on the way thither. The <i>Southern Cross</i>

-anchored, my belongings were put together, and in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118">{118}</a></span> two or three hours I

-landed at the usual place, and was at home again at Qatvenua. It was not

-a bright reception&mdash;the unusual quietness all about, the absence of the

-usual vociferous greetings, and the depressed looks of the teachers were

-not enlivening, and it was easily seen that there were unpleasant

-tidings to be heard. Gradually all became known. With regard to the

-chief school at Qatvenua the report was altogether favourable. It had

-decidedly advanced. Several outside adults, who had hitherto kept aloof

-from us, had come forward and joined themselves to our congregation, and

-the ordinary work had proceeded quite satisfactorily. But the other two

-schools in the district had met with interruptions, and one was in a

-state of temporary suspense. The cause of all was the fruitful source of

-trouble to us, the labour vessel. Some short time before one had visited

-that part, and a party of men and lads, almost entirely baptized or

-scholars, had departed in her. It was all to be put down to one man who

-had been of some importance. He had done wrong, and to avoid the

-retribution that in some form or other would have fallen upon him, he

-decided to leave the place, and then persuaded some of these men to

-accompany him, and the rest followed them. Amongst them was the teacher

-who had been in charge of the school at Lamoru, whose going was a great

-surprise, as he had always been so quiet and well-conducted. Fortunately

-his helpers were able to continue the school work by themselves without

-any intermittence. At the other place, Vathuqe, the school was closed

-for a time, as there was no one to take the erring teacher’s place. He

-had been left there with some misgivings, as he was not of equal

-standing with the teachers generally, but it was thought that his zeal

-and expressed desire for the post would be equal to the demand made upon

-his steadfastness. Some of the others that embarked were his relatives,

-and so he had the unusual temptation before him, and gave way to it.</p>

-

-<p>My first fortnight on shore was spent at Qatvenua. The landing was done

-in very unfavourable weather. It rained very heavily, and the very steep

-path leading up to the school village, bad enough in fine weather, was

-extremely troublesome for carrying up my goods and chattels, and they

-got very wet. My own little house was not in good condition, and until

-we repaired it I slept in the large boys’ house.</p>

-

-<p>Within a day or two we pulled some little distance down the coast to a

-small bay, where I heard some white man had been recently buried. We saw

-his grave, with an inscription, and in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119">{119}</a></span> time I heard the story of his

-death. No outrage on labour vessels has been made or attempted in Araga

-for several years, but in January, as it appeared, when a vessel from

-Samoa was visiting some place about thirty miles down the coast, one man

-was shot by a native as he was on shore with several others from the

-vessel bathing. It must be said that this man, a German, showed a great

-lack of wisdom in his behaviour. The native had come down some distance

-from the hills under the impression that his two wives, who had

-disappeared, were on board the vessel then to be seen lying at anchor,

-and in his rage the man was shot, while all the time the women were

-elsewhere. The body was brought up along the coast, and buried near our

-station. The whole affair had caused much excitement, even at the

-Northern end of the island. Some time after the place was visited by a

-German man-of-war, with results that will be spoken of further on.</p>

-

-<p>The great man to the South, Viradoro, expressed his continued desire for

-us to do something in his part, and we visited him several times, and

-were well received and listened to always. There is a lad at Norfolk

-Island who has connections with this place, and when they make a

-beginning at a school-house we may begin work with him as teacher, but I

-decline to put him there, as they desire, before this is done. Within a

-fortnight of my going ashore two labour vessels anchored near us, one

-from New Caledonia, and the other from Fiji. In the latter there

-departed a young son, quite a small boy, of Viradoro’s, whom I had hoped

-to take to Norfolk Island some time or other. His father was greatly put

-out by his being taken away.</p>

-

-<p>I had decided to remain at Qatvenua until Good Friday, and then to go on

-to Tanrig in Maewo for Easter. There are several communicants there, and

-I should have taken the Araga communicants with me that we might have

-our Easter Communion together. During the whole of Holy Week the weather

-was bad, and I feared that our voyage would not be practicable. On the

-Saturday, when we should have left, there was a strong wind blowing from

-the North, which would have been dead against us, with continuous rain,

-and there was no possibility of our going. Our Easter, however, was very

-pleasant, and the joyful hymns told of really joyful Christian hearts.</p>

-

-<p>In Easter week we left for my first visit to Wonor, the village at the

-Southern end where we had put Rorsal ashore. My intention and

-arrangements for going there caused much talk. The distance would be

-nearly forty miles, and I suppose no one<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120">{120}</a></span> had been more than half that

-distance down the coast, and it was thought to be a very long journey.

-More talked of even than the distance, however, was the belief that

-attaches itself to a particular place at the extreme Southern end. To

-this place were supposed to go all the spirits of the departed, and to

-remain there in some sort of community. Of all places in Araga,

-therefore, it is the one of the greatest superstitious interest and

-fear, and many of my chosen boat’s crew’s relatives did their best to

-dissuade them from accompanying me, but without effect. We started on

-the appointed day, and as I knew we could not do the whole distance in

-one day, as we went along the coast we made several calls at the

-villages as they appeared, and fixed upon one not quite half-way, known

-to some of the men, in which to pass the night. Our various stoppages,

-however, so delayed us, that it became clear that we should not reach

-our destination before night, and so when, upon rounding a point, we

-came upon a labour vessel quietly at anchor, and were hospitably invited

-on board for the night, I thought it wise to take advantage of it. It

-was a Fijian vessel with a number of men on board, lately recruited, and

-a Government agent whom I had met before. We passed the night quietly at

-least, though not comfortably for any of us, and pulled away in the

-morning, very grateful for the hospitality shown to us, and resumed our

-journey. The evening found us ashore at Wonor, where there was

-considerable excitement over our landing. Although the place is quite

-open to the prevailing Trade wind, a reef and a sand bank that lie off

-the shore shelter it quite effectually, and make the landing on the

-shelving beach easy and pleasant. In the fortnight that had elapsed

-since our calling here only a little had been done towards building the

-school-house. The site was cleared of all its timber, and some of the

-posts were ready. During our stay we had therefore to sleep in the men’s

-common house, which, being much smaller than is usual in the northern

-part of the island, we found rather inconvenient. On the whole our visit

-of a week was a great success, and it excited much interest. The house

-was proceeded with with great vigour, and all the people in the district

-showed a very friendly spirit, making things look bright and promising

-for the future. Thomas was doing all he could in the way of teaching,

-and his Scripture Picture Books were all well thumbed. I confined my

-doings to the immediate neighbourhood, and saw but little of the

-adjacent country, though the report of our sojourn caused people to come

-from a great distance to Wonor,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121">{121}</a></span> and they were very desirous of being

-visited. My boat’s crew were thoroughly well treated, and feasted to a

-great extent, and our entertainers did us the honour of dancing to us

-one evening. I had not intended to make a long stay this time, and

-having made some arrangements in the North, which required my presence,

-we left at the appointed time, in spite of the pressing invitation for a

-longer stay. Our return journey was accomplished with a little

-difficulty. The ordinary winds would have taken us back pleasantly in a

-day, but we fell in with a contrary wind halfway up the coast, and were

-delayed. Some time after night-fall we decided to land at a village then

-quite close, but the tide being out the reef was uncovered, and not

-wishing to have the boat injured we continued on our way, and at last

-reached our own beach, after very hard pulling, two or three hours

-before the dawn of the new day. It was not surprising that some of the

-lads should be knocked up for a time after this, but it was thought to

-be quite in accordance with the character of the place visited, that

-they were all, one after the other, laid up for varying periods. It did

-really seem peculiar that it should so happen at this particular time,

-when so much was being said about the superstition connected with the

-southern part.</p>

-

-<p>After this there was a month’s stay at the two Northern schools. At

-Lamoru a new house was built, larger and in better style than the old

-one which had seen the beginning of the work, and new arrangements were

-made concerning the teaching staff. At Qatvenua also repairs were made

-to the various buildings, and a boat-house, sufficient for the purpose,

-but not of any great size or beauty, was erected on the beach. The whole

-of this time was more or less wet, and there was much sickness all

-through the district. The infants suffered most, and very many died,

-several being children of our congregations. A girl also died, one of

-the two belonging to this place who had been to Norfolk Island. She had

-been declining for about a year, and my attempts to improve her health

-failed. Her lengthened sickness tried the patience of her friends

-greatly, and it was suggested once or twice by relatives that her end

-should be hastened. By these who made this suggestion it was of course

-believed that the illness was due to some unfriendly person’s charms,

-who would be rejoicing at seeing her suffering. One of our Catechumens

-lost his only child, a very engaging little boy, and his account of how

-he prayed that it might recover, and how he felt when death came, and

-his prayer seemed to be in vain, was very touching. This child he had

-been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122">{122}</a></span> in the habit of bringing frequently for me to see, and when I once

-gave him some beads for it, he was delighted. These, he told me

-afterwards, he had buried with him.</p>

-

-<p>On June 5 the <i>Southern Cross</i> returned to me again from the Northern

-islands, and I went on board to be put on shore at Wonor. It was my

-intention to go there to stay until the vessel’s return again from the

-South, which would be in about six weeks’ time. Two boys were to

-accompany me for the stay, and I took my boat. We could not land until

-the next day, after spending an unpleasant night on board. On pulling

-in, the school-house appeared well on to completion, showing that they

-had been working well at it since my last visit. It was not possible yet

-to sleep in it, so I spread my rug again in the men’s house, but we

-assembled the people together in the school-house for such instruction

-and talking as were found possible. A large party of Ambrym men was

-weather-bound here. Their home was plainly visible, about seven or eight

-miles distant, but across a very disturbed passage. They had already

-been here ten days, and were anxious to return. They had a sorrowful

-tale to tell. A short time before they had come over from Ambrym to go

-on an ordinary bartering expedition along our coast, and when the German

-man-of-war, the Albatross, mentioned above, arrived to avenge the death

-of the man who was killed in the beginning of the year, they happened to

-be at the very place. Naturally they thought themselves quite safe from

-any attack, and sat quietly on the beach awaiting the arrival of the

-boat. They all knew that the culprit was in a village two or three miles

-away on the hills, and they were prepared to assist in punishing him.

-Suddenly however, without any warning, they were fired upon more than

-once from some of the big guns of the ship. They at once fled in great

-fear, and did not know until the evening, when they ventured out of the

-bush again, what had been the result of the firing. One poor fellow had

-part of one leg blown away, and was found lying in great agony. A day or

-two after he died. Having thus fired and cleared the place of all

-people, a large number of men went ashore from the man-of-war, and

-succeeded in killing a few pigs, and in burning down the large men’s

-house of the place, which belonged to perfectly innocent and unconcerned

-people. Such a proceeding is not calculated to induce in the people any

-thoughts either of the justice or of the courage of the white man. It

-was a very weary time for them while waiting at Wonor, before reaching

-home to tell of their missing brother, and it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123">{123}</a></span> not pleasant for the

-people of Wonor, as the vessel had picked up two lads of the place as

-guides, and they were on board when the firing occurred.</p>

-

-<p>Instead of spending six weeks at this place we spent only ten days. They

-were busy days, as we all worked at the house, and as I could not get

-about very much to the neighbouring villages, I had to content myself

-with talking to the people as they came about us. It soon became evident

-that my two boys from the North were very home-sick. One I discovered

-sitting in the dark one evening crying, and although they said nothing I

-could see what they wished. I therefore decided to return with them, and

-after some little difficulty got a crew together. We started on a not

-very promising morning, but did not go far before the hearts of the

-Wonor men failed them entirely. There was a good breeze blowing, and

-some sea on, and the prospect of a long journey before them, and they

-formally requested to be allowed to return. It would have been very

-awkward to get back in the boat, as both wind and sea were dead against

-us, so I decided to put them ashore at a convenient spot, and continued

-the journey with the two boys. We had a fair wind, but rain commenced

-and continued at intervals all through the day. At last we reached our

-destination as evening came on, and never was home more welcome. Our

-wonderful journey, as it was thought, with only three in the boat,

-caused much talk. Had the wind failed us we should have been in a great

-difficulty, but as it was we did the forty miles without much labour. I

-hoped to be able to get a crew together, and to go South again to

-complete my stay, but we were over-ruled. Three or four days after

-reaching Qatvenua the place was greatly disturbed on hearing that a

-large canoe, which had left Maewo with Araga people in it more than a

-week before, had not been seen or heard of. They were either drowned or

-had been blown over to Opa. After a day or two more of suspense I

-decided to go to Opa to enquire. It was a relief to everybody when we

-started, and the people at home rejoiced greatly when they saw our

-signal fires in the evening to let them know that we had found the

-missing ones. It was so&mdash;they had been blown away from Araga, and could

-do nothing but steer for Opa. We remained there one night, and a Trader

-who lives there kindly gave the hospitality, and next day we started on

-our return with some of the canoe crew. A night had to be spent on the

-way at Maewo, but early the next morning we reached home. This was on

-Friday, and on the evening of the next day I commenced to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124">{124}</a></span> unwell,

-and continued so for three weeks. All plans came to nought, as I found

-it impossible to get rid of the ague and consequent fever, and only now

-and then could I manage to rise at all. The arrival of the <i>Southern

-Cross</i> on July 17 was therefore very welcome, and I went on board at

-once. All plans as regards the Bank’s Islands had to be given up, and

-instead of my staying for a time in Mr. Palmer’s district at Mota and

-Motalav, as I had anticipated with great pleasure, I was forced to see

-the wisdom of remaining on board for the voyage up to the Solomon

-Islands. Much of great interest occurred during the voyage, but the

-greatest event was a visit we paid to Nukapu, where the Memorial cross

-for Bishop Patteson had been erected two years previously. It was found

-to be well cared for, the people were more than friendly, were most

-hospitable, and there are bright hopes of something being done ere long

-in the place where the Martyr’s death occurred.</p>

-

-<p>I improved so much during the trip that on our arrival in the New

-Hebrides again, I decided to continue my stay in Araga. I was on shore

-therefore again from September 14 to November 12, and all the places

-were visited, and I was no more hindered by bad health. Wonor advanced

-most satisfactorily: my later visit found the house completed and quite

-fit to sleep in, and I saw much of the surrounding districts and people.

-At Lamoru we had the only adult Baptism of the year&mdash;five men were

-Baptized after much preparation and a long time of trial. November 18

-found us again off Norfolk Island, and the Island Voyages were a thing

-of the past for 1886.</p>

-

-<hr />

-

-<p class="c"><small>

-NETHERTON AND WORTH, PRINTERS, TRURO.</small></p>

-

-<hr class="full" />

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-<pre>

-

-

-

-

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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides,
+S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+Title: Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean
+
+Author: C. Bice
+        A. Brittain
+
+Release Date: October 9, 2018 [EBook #58060]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNAL ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from scans of public domain works at The National
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+</pre>
+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+<p class="c">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="266" height="500" alt="" title="" />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii">{iii}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
+
+<h1><big>JOURNAL</big><br /><small>
+OF RESIDENCE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES,<br />
+S.W. PACIFIC OCEAN.</small></h1>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="c">WRITTEN DURING THE YEAR 1886,<br />
+<small>BY</small><br /><span class="spc"><big>
+<span class="smcap">Revds.</span> C. BICE <small>AND</small> A. BRITTAIN.</big></span>
+<br /><br /><br />
+TRURO:<br />
+NETHERTON AND WORTH, LEMON STREET.<br />
+1887.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v">{v}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv">{iv}</a></span>&nbsp; </p>
+
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span> have been induced to publish the following Journals at the request of
+some friends who have perused them, and think they will prove
+interesting to others. The Journal of the Rev. A. Brittain arrived too
+late for insertion in the ‘Island Voyage’ for this year, and I have been
+requested by the Rev. William Selwyn, the Secretary of the Melanesian
+Mission, to print it with my own. I do this with the greater pleasure,
+because his report will not only supply me with a good excuse for
+rushing into print, but will furnish others with a more full and
+complete account of the work of the Melanesian Mission in the New
+Hebrides.</p>
+
+<p>The three islands herein spoken of are the Northernmost of the
+above-mentioned group&mdash;the New Hebrides&mdash;and form the Southern boundary
+of the Melanesian Mission work in the islands of the South-west Pacific
+Ocean.</p>
+
+<p>Araga (or Pentecost) and Maewo (or Aurora) are long and mountainous
+islands running almost North and South, about forty miles each in
+length, and separated by a narrow channel three miles wide. Opa (or
+Leper’s Island) runs at right angles to these, a broad, massive, grand
+looking country, resembling in appearance a huge whale, the hump of
+which rises to a height of over 4000 feet.</p>
+
+<p>Araga and Opa are thickly populated, but Maewo has a scattered and
+sparse population. Opa is about sixteen miles from Araga, but a channel
+of only five miles in width separates it from Maewo.</p>
+
+<p>The languages and dispositions of these neighbouring lands are much more
+varied and dissimilar than would naturally be inferred from their close
+propinquity. And the majority of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi">{vi}</a></span> people, too, seem to prefer an
+inland situation, all which serve to make the work of the Missionary the
+more arduous and difficult. On these islands every outward prospect is
+pleasing, and the inhabitants themselves not so far gone in vileness as
+to be incapable of improvement, as I hope the following pages will show.
+The work of the Melanesian Mission has been established in these islands
+a good many years now, with more or less success, and schools are in
+active operation as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc">At <span class="smcap">Araga</span>&mdash;Wonor, on the Southern face of the island, and Lamoru and
+Qatvenua on the North.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc">At <span class="smcap">Maewo</span>&mdash;Tanrig, Tasmouri, Tasmate, Mandurvat, Naruru, and Uta. All
+these stations are on the North of the island.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc">At <span class="smcap">Opa</span>&mdash;Tavolavola, Lobaha, Walurigi, the most flourishing of which is
+that first mentioned.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc">With these few preliminary remarks and explanations I leave the
+following simple pages to tell their own story.</p>
+
+<p class="r">
+CHARLES BICE.<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p class="nind">N.B.&mdash;The vowels in the Melanesian languages are pronounced as in
+Italian: a = <i>ah</i>, e = <i>a</i>, i = <i>e</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc">The letter written n̈ = <i>ng</i> in <i>singer</i>; d = <i>nd</i>, b = <i>mb</i>.</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">{1}</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="JOURNAL" id="JOURNAL"></a>J O U R N A L.</h2>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="c"><i>1886.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, 9th July.</i>&mdash;The weather seaward looked very threatening as we
+stood on the Pier at the Settlement in readiness to embark. All the
+Melanesians, boys and girls, to the number of about 50 had already gone
+off to the ship which lay tossing and tumbling at her anchorage as if
+anxious to be let free. A considerable number of Norfolk Island friends
+were on the Pier, in addition to most of the Members of the Mission, to
+bid us Farewell and wish us <span class="smcap">God</span> speed. Many thoughtful little mementos,
+too, found their way into our hands from our warm-hearted and well
+wishing friends. The process of shaking hands took some time in
+execution, but one could not but feel the absence of many who were
+unavoidably absent on the occasion. My own little ones were the last to
+bid me good-bye, and poor little Walter (my youngest son) was very
+tearful. Shortly after, we were all in the boat, and “let go” was called
+out. The landing was very smooth, and we got out with very little
+difficulty. Besides the Captain, Mr. Turnbull and myself were the only
+passengers. It was close upon 5 o’clock p.m. when we got on board, and
+some of the passengers had already begun to feel the motion of the
+ocean. After things were put into some order and the shore boat
+dismissed with Captain Bates and the Norfolk Island crew, the command to
+“heave away” was given, and then I saw for the first time the steam
+winch at work. Before many minutes the anchor was in its place in the
+bows of the ship, and the long process of raising the anchor in old
+days, performed by manual labour, reduced to a minimum. We slipped<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2">{2}</a></span>
+quietly down the leeside of the island, and had ample time to get into
+some amount of order and readiness for a very dirty, rough night.
+Opposite the Mission, the boys ashore had lit a large bonfire, and we
+could hear their shouts, borne seaward by the raging gale. As night
+closed in the sky became very dark and lowering, and we knew full well
+what we were to expect. We had dinner while still under the lee of the
+island, but before the meal was finished, we were knocking about in the
+heavy head gale. Of course any where but at Norfolk Island, where there
+is no certain shelter, it would be approaching madness to put to sea
+with such a crowd of people in a small ship on a night like this, but
+here there is no help for it. Perhaps had we not got away as we did, we
+might have been detained another week, from the uncertainty of wind
+changes and the insecurity of the anchorages. All night it blew very
+heavily, with a nasty head sea. Of course, the wind being very strong
+and dead ahead, we made little or no progress, and were in fact hove to.
+Most of the passengers spent a very unpleasant night, and the poor
+little children, of whom we had four on board, suffered like the others.
+The poor boys in the schoolroom had a disagreeable time, owing to the
+large amount of cargo on board, in addition to their own luggage. The
+<i>Southern Cross</i>, however, is a magnificent sea boat, although slightly
+lively, and being at sea was, to me at least, the worst of the evils we
+experienced that first night. Mr. Turnbull is a good sailor, and he and
+I were alone in the saloon. Poor old Manekalea I invited also to sleep
+there, on account of his blindness, and I asked Silas Kema to sleep
+there and look after him. Poor fellow, his sight seems quite gone, but
+he is wonderfully patient and resigned. I think now he begins to feel
+that there is no hope of his ever seeing again, and he begins to try and
+help himself and get about alone a great deal more than before. The loss
+of so young, active, and intelligent a Teacher must be much felt in the
+district of Ysabel, formerly under his charge.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, 10th.</i>&mdash;The wind had abated little, if any, this morning, and
+the vessel was making little or no headway. It rained a good deal
+throughout the day, and that allayed both wind and sea by evening. Very
+few of the boys appeared on deck, and I myself was quite <i>hors de
+combat</i>. Mr. Turnbull kindly offered to read prayers in English for me
+in the Evening, and I managed the Mota with a few who were able to
+attend. These first days on board ship are very trying, one feels quite
+out of it altogether, and the sea legs are somewhat long in returning<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">{3}</a></span>
+when one has been ashore for any length of time. Towards evening the
+weather moderated a little, but there was very little life about the
+ship. These unhappy days when one is the victim of <i>mal de mer</i> leave a
+very unsatisfactory impression behind them, and if any recollection is
+left, it is always painful. I was not actually seasick myself, but I
+felt uncomfortable enough for a time, and did not care for ship’s fare.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, 11th.</i>&mdash;The weather more moderate. I conducted Morning Prayer
+both in English and Mota, and generally our passengers were getting over
+their indisposition. It was not a very profitable day however to me, for
+I could not settle to anything: our Service hours on Sunday, at sea, are
+English Mattins at 9 o’clock a.m. and Evensong at 7 p.m. Mota 11 a.m.
+and 7.30 p.m. Our daily hours for meals are 8 a.m. breakfast, 12 noon
+lunch, 5 p.m. dinner. On Sunday this is slightly changed, and we dine at
+1, and tea at 5 p.m. At anchor, too, the English Morning Service is
+postponed to 10 a.m., and all the sailors are enabled to attend. Usually
+only one watch can be present while the vessel is at sea. This year we
+have a crew composed entirely of Englishmen. We have generally had
+previously a strong admixture of foreigners. The steward, indeed, is a
+German, but he has been with us so many voyages, speaks and reads
+English so well, that one quite forgets his nationality. The crew are a
+very nice, quiet, well-behaved set of men, and all look so respectable.
+I believe the Captain has many applications for billets on board the
+<i>Southern Cross</i>, she being a popular vessel now-a-days, besides, a trip
+in her is a paying affair, for I am told that sometimes the men realize
+from £10 to £30 and £40 by the sale of curios alone. The great collector
+on board now is John Brown the boatswain, and he has accumulated quite a
+museum, which he meditates taking to England for sale next year. Brown
+is an old Island Trader, and knows all the specialities of the trade and
+what will captivate the native taste. Penny whistles and half-penny
+looking glasses, I believe, are the line this trip. There is very keen
+competition too on board when the curio fields are reached, chiefly at
+Santa Cruz and some of the Solomon Islands. Sunday passed away somewhat
+profitlessly, and evening once more closed over a day past and gone. I
+did not give the sailors a Sermon, but reserved my efforts for the
+Melanesians, many of whom were able to attend. I naturally chose the
+subject of the Gospel as the basis of my remarks, viz: the recovery of
+the lost sheep and the piece of money, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">{4}</a></span> I applied to the condition
+of the heathen to whom we were going, and our duty as seekers of those
+who were still wandering upon the mountains and upon every high hill,
+with none caring for them or seeking them out. We had some singing after
+the service, and the termination of the day at least was pleasant, and I
+hope profitable. One’s thoughts naturally wandered away back to Norfolk
+Island, and one thought of the quiet peaceful Sunday evenings there, and
+the love of those we had left. The vessel was much more at her ease this
+evening, and we could undress and rest in bed with more comfort.</p>
+
+<p>It was a great pleasure to me from this time forward, to see the boys
+dropping into the cabin one by one to say their prayers, unbidden but
+none the less welcome.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, 12th July.</i>&mdash;This morning the wind has moderated very
+considerably, and the sea is going down. The vessel moving along much
+more gently and easily, sometimes towards our destination. Life on board
+is almost utterly devoid of interest or excitement. There is little or
+nothing stirring, and out of our element we feel restless and not fit
+for much. We begin now however, to fall into ship-shape ways, and things
+begin to look a little straighter than they did. The boys are divided
+into sets of cooks, and have to take their turn in order to cook and
+keep the schoolroom clean. The Melanesians have three meals a day, and
+they are supposed to look after their own food, the cook giving
+directions as to what he wants doing. After the misery and prostration
+of <i>mal de mer</i> have passed off, the boys get very lively, and do not
+easily again succumb.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we had music. Brown the boatswain has a most ingenious
+instrument called, I think, the “Cabinetto,” which plays almost any
+tune; a piece of perforated paper is turned over a sort of key-board,
+like a mouth organ, by means of a handle, and the closed notes are kept
+silent, while the open ones speak according to the length of the
+perforation. Its tone is somewhat harsh, but the music is very correct,
+and there is plenty of it. Brown bought this instrument, which cost him
+some £15 or £16, for the special amusement of his young Melanesian
+friends. The girls never seem to tire of turning the handle, and the
+more it is turned the better the owner seems pleased. Forward there is a
+very good concertina, exceptionally well played by one of the sailors, a
+banjo played by another, and a tin plate beaten by a third makes a very
+fair tambourine. Altogether, the hour between 5 and 6 p.m. is very
+lively with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5">{5}</a></span> strains of music and other enlivenments. The boys most
+thoroughly enjoy the music, and are very attentive and enthusiastic
+listeners, breaking in with a good chorus when they happen to know any
+of the pieces played. At 7 p.m. English Prayers, a shortened form of
+Evensong with a hymn, and afterwards full Evensong in Mota with a good
+deal of singing. We have many nice voices on board this time, and the
+singing is exceptionally good. Owing to the crowded state of the
+schoolroom, service is held in the saloon, which is inconveniently small
+for the large number who attend. The girls who hitherto have been
+prevented from attending, by reason of sea-sickness, this evening put in
+a very fairly large appearance. Most Melanesian ladies are bad sailors,
+and some never get over the inconveniences of the uncongenial sea
+element.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, 13th July.</i>&mdash;The weather this morning was somewhat finer, but
+still a good deal unsettled. We have failed as yet to get hold of the
+S.E. Trades, but are living in hopes that a favourable breeze will soon
+waft us onward to our destination. The great excitement this morning was
+the smoke of a steamer, which at first we wildly imagined must be the
+vessel expected from Sydney to meet us at Norfolk Island, giving us
+chase. However, wiser heads, by the direction of the ship’s head and the
+course of the smoke, made it out to be the <i>Rockton</i> or some steamer
+from Fiji towards New Caledonia. Whatever ship it may have been, the
+excitement all ended in smoke. Beyond this, we have had nothing stirring
+all day. The moon at night dispersed the clouds, and the concertina
+forward enlivened the monotony of the evening. And so has passed another
+day, leaving little record of any work done.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, 14th July.</i>&mdash;We were to-day somewhere in the neighbourhood
+of Walpole Island, a flat, uninhabited island lying by itself in mid
+ocean, on which myriads of sea birds have their dwelling, and lay their
+eggs and hatch their young. The weather was somewhat hazy, so we got no
+sight of the sun although the Captain was anxious to do so, not having
+been able to see that orb either to-day or yesterday. The ‘dead
+reckoning’ alone showed him our probable whereabouts, but he was not
+able to get any definite position laid down. Shoals of fish were seen
+about the ship to-day, and the boys perched on the bowsprit end
+succeeded in cleverly catching two fine skipjacks, one of which we had
+cooked for dinner, and which was pronounced as very good eating. No bait
+is required for these fish, a line, rod, and hook to which a piece of
+red rag is attached, are requisite, and the motion of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">{6}</a></span> vessel makes
+the tempting object skip along the surface of the water, to which the
+fish rises and swallows hook and all. They are large fish, and
+peculiarly strong, especially with their tails. At times they breach out
+of the water to a great height, the motive power being seated in their
+tails. One of the boys unadvisedly took hold of one of those caught
+to-day too near the tail, and the fish lashing out struck him on the
+forefinger, and at first I fancied had sprained it, for the whole hand
+swelled, and he was in considerable pain for some time. This evening it
+was very quiet and pleasant, and the moon added to the pleasantness of
+the occasion. It is wonderful to mark how the days lengthen as we go
+further North, and how the weather grows warmer. Soon we shall dispense
+with waistcoats, and bye and bye coats will likewise go, except at meals
+and at prayers. We saw nothing of Walpole Island, and the Captain got no
+sight of the sun again to-day.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, 15th July.</i>&mdash;This morning we were well up with Anaiteum, the
+first of the New Hebrides group, and belonging to the Presbyterians who
+have been established there a great number of years. Soon after Tanna
+appeared in view, and later on in the day Eromango. We could not see the
+volcano at Tanna, so that we cannot speak of its activity or otherwise.
+We passed close under Eromango, and for some time the water was quite
+smooth. We had a most beautiful wind all day, the real S.E. Trades, and
+we were enabled to make good progress towards our first place of call.
+Everyone on board seems to have sprung into life with the sight of land,
+and no doubt many see in the islands we are passing the anticipation of
+their own homes. Most of our passengers are from the New Hebrides and
+Banks’ groups, of which these three islands are the commencement. It was
+most beautiful all day and the evening especially enjoyable; the Captain
+wisely remarked that if it were always so fine, there would be too many
+sailors, or at least persons who would want to go to sea. Melanesian
+islands are disappointing as viewed at a distance from the sea, for they
+are like any other place, but the great beauty of them is seen on nearer
+inspection and ashore. These three islands and the Loyalty group are not
+so thickly wooded as some farther North.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, July 16th.</i>&mdash;Strong S.E. Trades, and we moved along rapidly all
+day, doing over two hundred miles. We found ourselves in the evening
+running through the passage between Ambrym and Pentecost at the South
+end of which we expected to find Mr. Brittain, who had been left there
+when the ship went<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">{7}</a></span> back to Norfolk Island. We stood quite close into
+the place, but receiving no manner of response from the shore we began
+to suspect that after all the bird had flown. The vessel stood off and
+on all the night, and it certainly was more comfortable than usually is
+the case under the like circumstances. The vessel rode very quietly all
+night, and on</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, July 17th.</i>&mdash;We were early off our place of call, and seeing
+no signs ashore the boat was lowered and I took the steer oar in a
+furious wind and a heavy sea. The approach to and departure from this
+place were as nasty as could be, and I was not sorry to be on board all
+right again. Mr. Brittain had left some time before, and our visit was
+futile except that we brought off his things. The people were quiet and
+well behaved, and Tom (the teacher) was in great form. Tom, having been
+educated in Sydney, speaks remarkably good English and is evidently held
+in respect by his people. Their dress and appearance are very like their
+neighbours of Ambrym, and the women wear the flaxen petticoat also like
+the Ambrymese. Their language, too, I believe, is akin, the distance
+separating the two islands not being more than five or six miles. Tom is
+building a very nice school, and there seems a large population. A big,
+chiefly looking man was sitting on the beach as we were coming away, and
+Tom told me that he was the chief of the place. I had brought nothing
+with me from the ship, and the boys had nothing, so the best I could do
+for the great man was to give him a tin of sardines which I got out of
+one of Mr. Brittain’s boxes. I dare say he would have preferred tobacco,
+but he seemed as satisfied as natives usually appear to be, for they are
+not generally very demonstrative or profuse in their thanks. The tide
+was falling fast so we had to beat a hasty retreat and got off with some
+considerable difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>Poor Tom must find life at home somewhat of a change to the ‘easy life’
+he enjoyed in Sydney. I believe he was very much scandalized when he
+first got home at the outrageously indecent dress of his countrymen. He
+himself still dons the Sydney costume, but minus boots. Poor boy! I dare
+say he dreamed in Sydney of the reforms he would endeavour to effect
+when he got home, but the stern difficulties in the way he now begins to
+realize. Oh! Missionary work seems easy enough when viewed from an arm
+chair at a distance of many thousand miles, the difficulties only become
+apparent when the man is brought into close connection with his work,
+and has to grapple in a stubborn, persistant hand to hand fight with the
+Evil one. Poor Tom! I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8">{8}</a></span> suppose he will try a little at first to stem the
+tide, and failing in that, will drift along with the stream. To a poor
+youth like that the difficulties of his position must seem stupendous
+and insurmountable. Nothing but the grace of God is sufficient for such.
+I dare say ere now his bright vistas and day dreams are being only too
+rudely dispelled, for he will have to find out like all other
+Missionaries that Christians are not made by machinery, or believers
+made such in a day; it is a long and weary process, but labour is not in
+vain in the Lord. Once more on board, the boat was hauled up, and on we
+started for the North end of the island where now we hoped to find Mr.
+Brittain. We saw a Labour vessel at anchor along the coast, and got to
+our own anchorage about 4 p.m. Mr. Brittain came off in his boat very
+sick, and with some difficulty got on board. He has been ill three weeks
+and was very anxious for the return of the vessel. During the evening he
+brightened up a good deal and I dare say felt much better for the
+society of his white brethren. He gave a very sad account of the state
+of things ashore, great sickness and considerable mortality. We had a
+very quiet night at anchor, and determined to stay here till Monday. We
+had some boys to land, and the boats were going forth and back all the
+evening. The clatter alongside was fearful owing to the large number of
+canoes that put off to the ship and every occupant speaking at the same
+time. They used to be a very noisy crowd, but have much improved of late
+years. It was a most glorious night at anchor and not excessively hot.
+We consider that we have done very well to be here so soon with the bad
+start from Norfolk Island. How the boys and girls did enjoy the fruits
+of their own islands again, especially green cocoanuts and soft sugar
+cane! And how pleasing was it too, as well as entertaining, as the
+shades of evening closed in, to watch the coy and shy flirtations of the
+young married couples on board; one or two were quite oldfashioned at
+the process, but Charles and Monica especially were somewhat more
+bashful. The young bridegrooms were most attentive to their respective
+spouses on the voyage but necessarily lived apart. The boys and men all
+live together in the schoolroom, and the girls and married women aft.
+There are as yet no married people’s apartments, we shall look for those
+when we get a bigger ship.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, 18th July.</i>&mdash;Quiet and peaceful day at Araga. The natives
+regarded the observance of Sunday so strictly that they troubled us very
+little with their noisy chatter, indeed very few canoes came off at all
+to the ship, and we were able to have an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9">{9}</a></span> uninterrupted day of rest. Our
+services began at 10 a.m. with English Prayers. We chanted the Venite,
+read the Te Deum, and sang the Jubilate besides singing the Glorias in
+the Psalms, and two hymns. We had therefore full Mattins with a short
+address to which the men paid very good attention. I tried to make the
+discourse as easy and lively as possible, and interspersed a few
+anecdotes among my remarks, which I think, being appropriate, were
+appreciated. The service lasted just three quarters of an hour so that
+the men were not wearied. It was not a very hot day, but beautifully
+bright and glorious. Shorewards it looked most lovely, the bright
+sunshine lighting up the vegetation with a silver sheen, everything
+seeming to catch the infection from the King of Day, who rejoiced as a
+giant to run his course. On board a gentle breeze cooled the air, and
+under the awning and down below alike it was bearably comfortable and
+refreshing.</p>
+
+<p>At 11 o’clock we had service in Mota, at which we had the attendance of
+all the Melanesians of both sexes in the ship, and a very hearty,
+cheering service it was. I reserved my address to them for the evening
+and before noon our religious duties for the morning were over. We dined
+at 1 o’clock and in the afternoon Mr. Turnbull and myself went ashore.
+This was his first experience in these islands and he was duly impressed
+with the natural beauty everywhere apparent, and the good nature of the
+people. It was nearly high water when we went in over the reef, and the
+clearness of the sea, the beauty of the coral bed, the dear little blue
+and vari-coloured fish which flitted about produced their due effect on
+him. The white beach, too, with its background of most luxuriant green
+rising from the base and clothing in marvellous profusion the tops of
+the hills greatly delighted him. The climb up the hill somewhat
+dispelled the fancy, but one could well imagine oneself in some
+semi-fairy land so strangely beautiful as it all looked. We were in a
+very liquid state when we reached the school about three quarters of a
+mile up the hill, and green cocoanuts were very acceptable. Here we
+found in the midst of all the loveliness a poor little child dying amid
+squalor and destitution. The poor young mother was sitting over it and
+crying her heart out. Her son had been buried the day before and there
+seemed not a particle of hope for the elder sister. I said what I could
+to comfort the mother, but it was too late to do anything for the child.
+The father with a third child was walking up and down disconsolately
+outside. The sight had its effect on me, for the father bears the
+honoured name of my great<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">{10}</a></span> friend Bishop Key of Kaffraria, the mother
+bears my wife’s name, and the little dying one the name of my own
+daughter, the boy too who died the day before was called “Bailey” a
+cognomen revered by all Augustinians as the name of its late Warden.</p>
+
+<p>Poor things! May God give them all the comfort of His grace, the only
+balm for a troubled and afflicted soul.</p>
+
+<p>We walked about the village for a time and everything being utterly new
+and strange to Mr. Turnbull he was very much charmed. We visited old
+Sarawia who was once, and I dare say now is, the chief man in the place.
+He still looks much the same as ever but professed himself to be failing
+in health, and suffering from a sort of paralysis in his left leg. It
+does not seem however as if he intended to die just yet for he has
+lately taken two or three additional wives. We also saw the great wind
+and rain maker, but he said he had given up the trade now, and came to
+school regularly. Formerly he used to derive a good income from it I
+believe.</p>
+
+<p>The houses and gamals (men’s quarters) here are most squalid and
+wretched, but the people seem content, and don’t trouble themselves much
+about their habitations, but what they shall eat or drink is a prominent
+consideration in all their minds. Their great treasures here are pigs
+and mats, and a man’s wealth and standing is measured by his possession
+in these. After proceeding through various grades if a man can kill one
+hundred pigs at a feast he is looked upon as a man of importance and his
+name is handed down to posterity as a great man, and I believe by that
+means his fare is prepaid to the realms of the Blest. The reverse I
+believe obtains with those who possess no treasures and kill no pigs.
+Everyone therefore in the interval between his advent into this world
+and his departure from it, endeavours to slaughter according to custom
+one pig or more, or the consequences will be terrible if not here at
+least hereafter.</p>
+
+<p>This is a cheap way at all events of purchasing blessedness and no
+wonder they are eager with the small price for it. A fighting man
+formerly was looked upon as having more claim to their Walhalla than a
+man who refused or who had failed to take blood. This title certainly of
+late years has not been so eagerly coveted, and so far it is,
+thankworthy, but “when the wicked man turneth away from his wickedness
+and doeth that which is lawful and right he shall save his soul alive,”
+this last clause as yet is omitted from their programme.</p>
+
+<p>On our way back I could not refrain from paying another<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11">{11}</a></span> visit to the
+dying child. There still sat the faithful mother, and there still lay
+her pretty child, life was not yet extinct, and she had turned since I
+saw her before. I determined when I got off to the ship to try and get
+some medicine as a sort of dernier resort. I doubt if medicine will ever
+more do any good. We got off to the ship before 5 p.m., and at that hour
+had tea, bread and sardines, and cake which the cook had concocted. The
+“Cabinetto” was going most of the evening, Brown having thoughtfully
+brought some sacred sheets for Sundays. At 7 p.m. we had Evensong in
+English and afterwards in Mota with an address on the Gospel, “Be ye
+therefore merciful,” “not only were we to ask mercy for ourselves I
+said, but we too must extend it to others, and we should find plenty of
+opportunity of doing so, in the places to which we were going. If we
+only felt for a moment the mercy of God towards us as revealed in Christ
+Jesus, we must be merciful to our fellows, and we must show them the
+same mercy we had experienced and known in our Saviour’s dealings with
+our own souls.”</p>
+
+<p>We had great singing afterwards, which they always enjoy. It was most
+resplendent on deck afterwards, and one was thankful for the quiet and
+refreshment throughout of the day of rest.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, 19th July.</i>&mdash;Mr. Brittain well enough this morning to go ashore
+to collect his things and make arrangements with his teachers. It is his
+intention if health permits to stay ashore in Mr. Palmer’s district at
+Mota and the Banks’ Islands, but in his present condition such a step
+would scarcely be wise. However, time will tell. While he was ashore Mr.
+Huggett, the mate, always ready to lend a helping hand, and myself put
+the teacher’s things together, and when he came off Mr. Brittain had
+nothing to do but give them out according as they had been deserved.
+Meanwhile there were crowds of people round about the ship, and much
+trading was carried on by the boys and girls on board. They use here
+canoes with outriggers, and the larger ones are very clumsy, unwieldy
+monsters. The Captain hates the sight of them alongside for they rub the
+paint off the ship, and sometimes even damage the copper. In the Solomon
+Islands they have no outriggers, and the natives are much more expert in
+the management of their canoes, both large and small.</p>
+
+<p>Here at Araga they have a very large number of canoes, but they are very
+bad.</p>
+
+<p>We weighed anchor at noon and stood across to Opa and were at anchor at
+Tavolavola by about 3.30 p.m.; a very nice<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">{12}</a></span> breeze took us across, and
+on arrival there we made preparations for going ashore at once. I found
+matters satisfactory ashore, and the school in full swing, the young
+teachers all neatly and nicely dressed.</p>
+
+<p>They were glad to have Charles back again and the women walked off with
+his pretty wife, dressed in all her bit of best. She had done a good
+deal of weeping between the ship and shore, evidently being very
+reluctant to leave her friends on board. Her eyes therefore were
+slightly tear bedyed, and her cheeks also, before she got ashore. The
+school looked cared for, and I was pleased to see a very nice new house
+built for me. The people were very glad to have me back and received me
+in their usually cordial fashion. An English Trader had built a house,
+and had resided some months near the village, but had lately taken his
+departure, why I know not, but I believe there was not trade enough.</p>
+
+<p>There are a number of white men now trading all over the island, the
+mystery is how they can make it pay. Monica was very tearful again when
+I bid her good-bye, poor girl I dare say she will have a hard struggle
+at first among her own country women, but I trust she may have strength
+given her to resist the wiles of the Evil one and his agents among them.
+She is a pretty, flighty girl, but much improved of late, and became a
+great favourite on board. She has a most estimable husband and I hope
+she will make him a good helpmeet.</p>
+
+<p>We passed a very pleasant night at the snug anchorage and all the boys
+came off to the ship next morning.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, 20th July.</i>&mdash;We weighed anchor and dropped down to Lobaha,
+about four miles along the coast to the Westward. Here we found Herbert
+Arudale well. He came off to the ship with his wife Mary who was not
+well. They seem to live much happier now, and both were beaming over
+with smiles. He gives but a poor account of his work, which is much in
+<i>statu quo</i>. The fact is his field is very limited if he must confine
+himself to his own people, and it never suggests itself to a Melanesian
+to go farther a-field. The mountain must come to Mahomet, for Mahomet
+never dreams of going to the mountain. However, now with Didi and his
+wife, a most exemplary pair, and seemingly very devoted, they ought to
+make a fresh start. Baitagaro I saw ashore and he seems to have
+improved, but it must be heart breaking work to labour on year after
+year, and get little or no attention to what you say, no appreciation of
+the message you<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13">{13}</a></span> bring, and no interest taken in all you endeavour to
+do. However, it is what the Man of Sorrows passed through, and it is
+what His true followers have to experience also.</p>
+
+<p>Here we almost filled the ship with fruit, especially a kind ardently
+longed for by the Norfolk Islanders, which they call the Vee apple, but
+which the Opa people term “Uhi.” Some very sweet oranges too were
+offered for sale, and the ship looked like a fruit market.</p>
+
+<p>We hoisted our anchor before noon and stood across to Maewo where we
+anchored in the evening. No one being down on the beach, I started off
+Arthur Huqe and Duwu to Tanrig to tell the people to come down in the
+morning.</p>
+
+<p>The village is three or four miles from the watering place and except
+the ship is there, the Tanrigese seldom come down to this beach, the sea
+being nearer on the other side of the island. Mr. Turnbull and I with
+some of the boys went in and had a most delicious bath, after so many
+days privation all the nicer. The river we found very full and the rush
+very great, but the water was most beautifully cool and refreshing. This
+now is the chief and best watering place in the islands, and the water
+itself is most excellent. Late in the evening a boy arrived who had
+rowed a long distance in his canoe, and he gave us the news, which was
+good on the whole. He told me again the tragic story enacted at N̈adui,
+a village not far from the watering place. One Vulatewa was a reputed
+disease-maker, and he resided there. Lately there had been a great
+mortality at Maewo, and especially among the still heathen people of
+Tanrowo, a coastal district bordering on N̈adui. The great man,
+Melkalano’s son died and his brother and many others, and Vulatewa
+insisted that he had made the sickness, and would kill many more except
+he were propitiated. However, propitiation by the gift of pigs or money
+was not in Melkalano’s line, and collecting his followers he made a raid
+on poor Vulatewa and killed him and two others, cutting them into small
+pieces, and leaving them as they were killed.</p>
+
+<p>They then drove out the other inhabitants, or rather fear had already
+lent them wings for flight, and destroyed the village. The poor people
+left everything they possessed behind, and took refuge in all directions
+among their friends. The people at the next village, where there was a
+flourishing school, took fright also, and cleared out of their homes
+leaving a fine handsome school-house and a new church almost finished.
+The boy added that as soon as Vulatewa was dead the sickness was stayed.
+We did<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14">{14}</a></span> no watering this evening as the tide did not suit. After a very
+quiet night at anchor on</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, 21st July.</i>&mdash;We started watering ship. This is a busy
+process and keeps everyone on board well employed. Two large canvas
+tanks are fitted into each boat, and fastened underneath the thwarts.
+Into these the water is poured from buckets until both are full, a
+suction pump and hose on board empties these canvas tanks into iron
+receptacles under the floor of the schoolroom, and one boatload fills
+about a tank and a half. Seven or eight loads of water therefore
+finished the watering to-day. When everything was finished, the boys and
+girls went ashore to wash their clothes and bathe, and this day here is
+always looked forward to. The people came down from Tanrig in the
+morning, and I was busy packing up my things. After lunch I went ashore
+and started away the bearers with my belongings. How they managed to
+carry all the heavy boxes and a big harmonium up the hill and on for
+three or four miles, I don’t know, but they did it, and did not think
+much of it. I went on board again, and thanks to the Captain’s kindness,
+I got the loan of one of the ship’s boats, my own having been stolen by
+a labour ship last year. After an early dinner, escorted by Arthur, &amp;c.,
+I left for Tanrig. It was just getting dusk when I arrived, and I had no
+time to put anything straight. We had Evensong, and after that I
+prepared for bed. The mosquitos were somewhat numerous, but it was too
+late to get out my net, and so I put up with their music, and soon was
+oblivious of their singing or teasing. It seems quite natural to be here
+again, and as is usual the place has not changed at all. The boys
+however, have built me a beautiful new house, and I shall live in great
+comfort. I miss several faces too from the congregation, whom death has
+removed.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, 22nd July.</i>&mdash;I left the <i>Southern Cross</i> last night expecting
+to get away early this morning, which I suppose she did. However I am so
+far away from the sea, that I have no means of knowing what she did.
+Naturally too, I was very busy this first day ashore. The first business
+after Morning Prayer, was to start off Samuel and the Tasmouri
+contingent who had spent the night here. They had a good many things to
+receive, but they got away in time to reach home before night. There
+were numbers of other things to be done also, such as putting the new
+window in the Church, unpacking the harmonium, making a platform for it,
+&amp;c. The old mode of life seems to come back wonderfully naturally to me.
+Breakfast of rice, with sugar and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15">{15}</a></span> cocoanut milk, and afterwards a cup
+of delicious Norfolk Island coffee, for which delicacy I am indebted to
+my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher Nobbs. My midday meal is a bit of
+biscuit or roasted yam, and I reserve myself for the great meal of the
+day in the evening, not sumptuous but amply sufficient, fried rasher of
+bacon, fried taro pancake, and most excellent potatoes, for which I am
+indebted to Mr. Alfred Nobbs at Norfolk Island. After this I have a cup
+of milkless tea, which I brew in that charming teapot sent me from China
+by Dr. Codrington. They say ‘enough is as good as a feast,’ and I
+suppose this is why I am perfectly satisfied with this rough meal. After
+dinner I have nothing again till next morning.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, 23rd July.</i>&mdash;A most superb morning, and the place looks very
+charming early in the day and in the evening, at midday there is a
+strong glare and it is almost too dazzling. The church looks most
+picturesque and pretty, nestling in a perfect forest of bright coloured
+shrubs, among which are many European representatives, <i>e.g.</i> the
+Poinsettia, the Geranium, Marvel of Peru, and others imported from
+Norfolk Island. Arthur certainly has expended great pains and taste in
+the plantation, and it amply rewards him. Outside the stone fence is an
+orange grove, the dark green of which stands out in bold relief against
+the bright colours within. The church is still in a good state of
+preservation and will last for some time yet. It is getting
+inconveniently small however, and will soon want enlarging. It bears
+evident signs of being made good use of, and they tell me the
+congregation morning and evening is never short of 50 or 60. In a very
+short time I hope this will be a purely Christian village, and that not
+only in name, but in deed and in truth. I see considerable change here
+since I left in the number of the new houses, and the care of the town,
+for such it now has a right to be called. Before long the Church will be
+the centre of a number of private residences, and the people begin to
+build better houses. Arthur has constructed his like mine with high
+walls caned all round, and made it very comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>Except the ground floor my house is quite as nice as a one roomed
+boarded house. The school and church are almost contiguous, and both are
+strong, substantial buildings. There are at present 80 names of scholars
+on the books, and these are regular attendants. I hope before I leave,
+please God, to see that number augmented. At present we are strong in
+teachers, with the two Arthurs, Patrick, Harry, Duwu, Tilegi, Kate and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16">{16}</a></span>
+Agnes. This morning after service, a shortened form of Mattins with a
+hymn, we had school, and I hope progress has been made. I was pleased to
+hear the teachers questioning their classes on the subject about which
+they had been reading. The perseverance of the old men in puzzling out
+the dreary sheets is perfectly astonishing, but they will not be denied.
+They have, however, learnt much by heart, e.g. Lord’s Prayer, Creed, Te
+Deum, &amp;c. The women are quite as persevering, if not more so, and I
+don’t like to damp their ardour by forbidding them to try and learn to
+read. The first class of girls are far away ahead of the boys, and know
+a very great deal. These same girls used to sing very nicely, but they
+have got into the most disagreeable drawl, and so far from following a
+leader, they take the bit between their teeth, and sing as fancy
+dictates. This I shall try and remedy before I leave again. We have now
+a harmonium for our services, thanks to the very great kindness of my
+friend and benefactress in England, Miss Mount, who is far more
+beneficent than I at all deserve. The two Arthurs play very fairly well,
+but Arthur Huqe is organist at present. After school I had visitors from
+Golvanua, a populous district some ten or twelve miles from here. They
+are very peculiar people and very wild, I am sorry to say I have only
+been there once, and that only a flying visit. I told them I was coming
+again soon, and they seemed pleased. I gave the head man some tobacco,
+and he said when I came to their place he would give me food and take
+care of me. Our people here are rather terrified of them, and the
+distance is so great that very few have ever been there. There were two
+nice little boys with them, and I asked them if they were not tired, but
+they scouted the idea.</p>
+
+<p>I was so busy all day that I did not get away from home, and things
+begin to be a bit more ship-shape. I begin to feel very comfortable in
+my new house, but I dare say if my friends saw me, they would fancy it
+was far from comfort. However, I have a continual feast in a contented
+mind. In the evening, instead of school, we had singing, into which I
+endeavoured to infuse some life and harmony, and partially succeeded,
+but not to my taste quite yet. Then in the evening I held a teacher’s
+class, and we had much profitable conversation.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, 24th July.</i>&mdash;This is observed by us as a whole holiday, and
+after Morning Prayer nothing is required of the school till the evening
+service. Arthur Aruduliwar decided to have his house thatched to-day,
+and a large party assembled to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17">{17}</a></span> help him. Here they do everything by
+means of ‘Bees,’ (working parties). ‘Bees’ dig the gardens, plant the
+crops, dig the food, build the houses. The women do the cooking, and the
+owner of the house makes the feast, this is all he has to do, he is not
+supposed himself to do any work. Next week they are going to thatch a
+gamal, more stupendous work, and a great many people are going to be
+engaged, and there is to be much feasting, and I believe a dance.
+Marvellous harmony prevails in this community at present, and I never
+hear a harsh expression, nor witness a passionate action. They are the
+merriest, happiest, most contented people I ever saw, and I think the
+best natured. A party from Tasmouri appeared during the morning, and
+Thomas Aruloli among them. I asked him to stay the night, but he replied
+that it was his Sunday at Tasmate to-morrow, and he would not like to
+miss. I was pleased at this, for it showed the boy’s conscientiousness
+with respect to his self-imposed duty. I gave him his goods, and he and
+the others started again soon after for home. These natives don’t seem
+to know what fatigue is, and this double journey, which I should be
+sorry to undertake, they make nothing of it. After a frugal lunch the
+boys and I went to Ruos, where we bathed and washed our clothes. The
+river is certainly a boon and a blessing, and a good bathe has a most
+invigorating effect on one. In the evening the teachers came in and sat
+a long time with me, and we had much suitable conversation. While they
+were sitting here, a sound, which I had heard all day and couldn’t find
+the reason of, kept going on continually, and I asked Arthur what it
+was. He told me it was a bamboo placed high up on a top branch of a
+banyan tree in front of my house, in which notches were cut below each
+joint, and when the wind blew strong it sounded in the bamboo with the
+same effect that would be produced by so many persons blowing at once
+into the several orifices. This seemed to me very ingenious, but Arthur
+Huqe tells me they have the same practice at Opa. They say when the wind
+blows strong the sound is heard a great distance off, and I can quite
+imagine it.</p>
+
+<p>We heard this evening the reports of two big guns in the direction of
+the watering place, so it is conjectured that a vessel is at anchor
+there. However it was too late to go and see.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, 25th July.</i>&mdash;First Sunday ashore at Maewo, and a very quiet and
+pleasant day it has been. I think too, it has been one of the most
+gloriously brilliant days I have ever seen. The morning was beautiful,
+the midday marvellously resplendent, and the evening indescribably
+lovely. The place did look so beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">{18}</a></span> too. I told the people they
+ought never to cease praising God for so beautiful a heritage as He had
+given them. They have not a want or a care, but I fear they fail to
+appreciate the beauty, according to the truth of the old adage which
+speaks of familiarity breeding contempt. We had Sunday school very
+early, for two reasons more especially, (1) because it is cooler in the
+morning, (2) because we are not plagued with blowflies which appear in
+untold numbers wherever there is any congregation of people.</p>
+
+<p>After a short interval devoted to breakfast, we had Mattins, and after
+this a short service and an address for the teachers. We had a very few
+strangers present to-day, but all our own people turned up. We did away
+with the great midday feast to-day for the first time for many years,
+but some of the women cooked a large quantity of food which was
+distributed to the boys in the usual way. This food business had become
+too laborious, and too much the chief part of the day, so that I fancied
+a relaxation for a time would be beneficial.</p>
+
+<p>Patrick went to Mandurvat to take service there, but I stayed at Tanrig.
+At six different stations, school and service have been held and the day
+duly observed.</p>
+
+<p>Evensong was a pleasant service here, and the church looked very nice
+lit up with the new lamps. The strains of the harmonium too, gave an
+additional pathos and homeliness to the occasion. I gave an address on
+the Gospel for 5th Sunday after Trinity, which I think was understood
+and appreciated. We had much singing afterwards and the public part of
+the day ended with the Blessing. May that blessing ever rest upon us
+here and elsewhere, and may we always endeavour to do all to God’s
+glory.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, 26th July.</i>&mdash;I reckoned without my host last night when I
+rashly permitted Agnes and Kate to cook for me this week at their own
+request. They made a tremendous fuss about it, but the rice came to
+table uncooked, and in such a small quantity that my breakfast was
+spoilt and the coffee was anything but good. However they did their best
+and I dare say to-morrow they will do all right. They were both
+wonderfully good, and not only washed up for me but gave my premises a
+good sweep as well. Poor Agnes, she is hideously lame, but she pretends
+to the liveliness of a kitten. The fence around the school is rather
+high and I watched her endeavours to get over with her lameness and her
+petticoats. She managed better than I expected, but I stood by in
+readiness to lend her a helping hand in case she fell. She comes back
+fully impressed with a sense of her importance and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19">{19}</a></span> dignity after so
+many years absence, and her friends made a great deal of her. To-day she
+is off with the other women on some excursion or other, and is fully
+convinced that she is as active as any of them. Before long no doubt she
+will fancy herself useful and engaging enough to be the life partner of
+Tilegi, and to be the faithful companion of his joys and sorrows. She is
+an intelligent girl, and her long training at Norfolk Island ought to
+make her useful here. She is perfectly charmed with her home, and she
+sees very plainly the beneficial results produced by Christianity. When
+she left, she herself was among the few baptized, now she comes back to
+the bosom of a Christian community with a good church and school, daily
+Morning and Evening Prayers, and perfect harmony and good will among all
+men. She will miss little at home now of what she has grown accustomed
+to at Norfolk Island, and it must be a pleasant realization to her. The
+girls, too, with whom she will have daily association are all
+Christians, and she will be spared the shock and repulsion of heathen
+women’s talk and actions. Her father has died in the interval, a truly
+godly man in his life, and a believer at the time of his death.</p>
+
+<p>There is no face I miss here more than that of James, a true and
+faithful friend to me, and I firmly believe, too, of our Lord and
+Saviour Jesus Christ. Arthur tells me his death was perfectly peaceful
+and happy, and he desired at the last to depart and be with Christ which
+was far better. His two children followed him, and the three lie side by
+side in the quiet and rest of the grave. A reputed mother, but one who
+is really an aunt, Amina, takes charge of Agnes until Tilegi or some one
+else claims her as a bride, for in spite of her deformity I suppose she
+will not eschew marriage herself, or be allowed to remain in single
+blessedness by her friends, for here young ladies are not over
+plentiful, and to judge by the appearance of some already married there
+is no accounting for taste among the men of the place. Elizabeth, the
+wife of James, has found solace in another partner, but she spoke of her
+former husband with a due amount of grief and tears, and said to me,
+pointing in the direction of his grave, “He lies asleep over there.”</p>
+
+<p>Yet there are here those who are ‘widows indeed,’ and good old Dorcas is
+one such. This old lady well deserves her name, for she is full of alms
+deeds, and kindness to all, and I firmly believe is a true follower of
+Jesus Christ. She lives alone with a little grandchild in her own hut
+and trains up dutifully the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">{20}</a></span> child in the way she should go. Very seldom
+is old Dorcas away from her seat in church, and she exercises a benign
+and gentle influence over her own sex in the village. Anna, another good
+old widow, has died in my absence, and the loss of such is much felt.
+Among the younger women there is a perfect colony of children, and this
+is most thankworthy as being a proof that infanticide has been quite
+stamped out, and formerly it seemed to be a sort of religious duty here.
+Children were looked upon as being uncanny as well as a nuisance, and if
+the mother did not kill her offspring herself, she found plenty of
+aiders and abettors in the old midwives who attended her. The father
+seemed utterly impotent to prevent the evil. Now the fathers have turned
+head nurses and are abundantly proud of their children.</p>
+
+<p>This morning after Prayers and school I walked down to the river side at
+Rarava, whither almost the entire population had preceded me, and where
+I lit upon a busy scene. It was a most resplendent day, but the
+overhanging branches of the wide spreading foliage lent a charm and
+grateful shade to the occasion. The men were engaged in digging the
+‘taro’ roots, from their irrigated beds, and the women busy washing and
+preparing them for culinary purposes. The ladies here, present no
+exception to a proverbial excess in the use of the ‘unruly member’ as
+the especially noticeable characteristic of the gentler sex in more
+favoured parts of the world, and a Babel-like clatter of tongues formed
+a striking accompaniment to the quietness and order of the work in hand.
+The taro beds of course are mud, pure and simple, and the taro when dug
+is a very dirty vegetable, it is covered over besides with long
+tenacious feelers for roots, and these are picked off with the fingers
+in the most skilled and practised manner much after the fashion of
+plucking and preparing a bird for table. When the cleaning and plucking
+process is perfected, the long stalks are collected to a head and tied
+up in convenient bundles with one of their own parts in the most
+ingenious and knowing manner. Two bundles are then arranged on one long
+pole, and carried by one bearer on the shoulder, one bundle before and
+another behind their backs. The weight is considerable, but here the
+burden is borne by the men, the women carry the broad leaves and other
+concomitants of native cookery. Beyond the cackle there was very much
+merriment which all seemed in accord with the dancing sparkling waters
+of the clear flowing river. The prospect around was most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21">{21}</a></span> beautiful and
+although not extensive the landscape was most bewitching, and the eye
+was never tired with seeing.</p>
+
+<p>These natives have great natural taste, which is displayed to a far
+greater degree in the arrangement and beautifying of their yam and taro
+gardens here, than in any other island I have seen.</p>
+
+<p>The broad, handsome evergreen taro leaf spreads its verdure right and
+left, and all around, amid the friendship of the gay-leaved croton, the
+majestic dracæna, and the vari-coloured hibiscus, while here and there,
+to vary the prospect, the graceful cocoanut lends the beauty and
+elegance of its chastely spreading branches; all this beauty is thrown
+into relief by a back ground of the most marvellously beautiful bush,
+which shuts it in as with a natural fence, and leaves the only wish and
+feeling with the observer just to get for a moment a peep of what lies
+beyond. Breaks here and there however, in the background, revealed
+distant hills clad to their very summits with a richness and profusion
+of vegetation such as always abounds in these lovely islands where
+‘every prospect pleases.’ I could select so many subjects for pictures
+here as almost to finish up all my dry plates, my only hope is that I
+may meet with some measure of success when by and bye I try my hand at
+photography. A header into the cool waters and a swim up and down stream
+was very refreshing. The boys enlivened the scene by their merriment and
+gambolling in the water, and altogether it was an occasion of much
+delight, and not the less so to me when I considered that all these
+people, almost without exception, had passed before through the healing
+waters of Holy Baptism. As possessing so much of the element, it is
+perhaps only natural that these people should love the water, and bathe
+a great deal more than their appearance would give one reason to
+suspect. The boys, and more especially, I think, the girls, are very
+fond of the water, and never seem tired of bathing when near the
+river-side. ‘Tanrig’ is distant about two miles from the river, and this
+distance, although inconvenient for many reasons, is very convenient for
+others, and especially because of the mosquitos which abound in the
+neighbourhood. Here some times they are bad enough, but by the
+water-side they are, I believe, unbearable. I know I find them
+troublesome enough there by day, and I don’t care to experience the
+worry and misery of them by night. They are called here ‘namu,’ and are
+said to be particularly troublesome at a certain period in the growth
+and maturity of the yam.</p>
+
+<p>Any one who has not lived in a tropical country can have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22">{22}</a></span> very little
+conception of the discomfort and worry of these little maddening
+tormentors. Yet there are others whose attacks produce more serious
+consequences, and an illustration was afforded this evening. “Kate
+Tevano” (Arthur’s wife) was coming across to my house, and when almost
+at my door she gave a scream of terror and retired at once back again. I
+rushed out to learn the cause, and found she had been bitten by a
+centipede in the toe. The blood was just oozing out, and there were the
+distinct marks of his two fangs. In about ten minutes she was in great
+agony, and in the course of the evening her foot swelled and the pain
+was most terrible, and she couldn’t bear anything near it. Poor child, I
+left her in floods of bitter tears before going to bed, and she expected
+to be in pain all night long. The natives have some antidote for it, and
+the women were applying that all the evening. I confess that I did not
+know myself what to do, except to bathe it with hot water. There was a
+great hunt for the venomous little reptile, but of course he had made
+himself scarce. How he got on her foot, and why he bit her, no one
+knows, but there are multitudes of the creatures here, and perhaps the
+mystery is that people are not more often bitten. They have scorpions
+too here whose bite is very venomous, but one doesn’t often hear of
+their biting. There is a very large ant here called the ‘gandee’ to
+which I have a great aversion, and its bite is very sharp. Snakes here
+are not venomous, but the people have an instinctive dread of them, but
+they do not trouble us much. There is a hideous creature which lives in
+the thatch of the houses, an ugly toad-like lizard, with large red
+prominent eyes, which has such a tenacity of grasp with its feet that it
+sometimes even sticks so tight to the person it attacks as to take away
+the very skin in its grasp. Indeed, to me there are many strange and
+uncanny creatures in these islands to which I give as wide a berth as
+possible. Even in putting on your clothes you may find that a scorpion
+or centipede have taken up their quarters, in your hat you may find
+another monster, while most likely your shoes will be the tenement of
+some hideous reptile. Use and experience cannot rid one of a shudder
+when one thinks what may be, and yet if one is always anticipating these
+evils one’s very life becomes a burden.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, 27th July.</i>&mdash;I visited poor Kate this morning as soon as I got
+up, and found her still in considerable pain and her foot a good deal
+swollen. She had slept but little during the night, and was still very
+tearful. However, her friends assured<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23">{23}</a></span> her that the poisonous effects
+would soon pass away, and it proved true, for I saw her walking, or
+rather limping about during the course of the forenoon. I was anxious to
+see a centipede this morning, and by and bye a man came bringing one
+which he held tightly by head and tail. It was a pretty creature and not
+so black as some I have seen, the legs indeed were of an orange yellow
+colour. It tried very hard to riggle away, but the ruthless boys soon
+put an end to its existence. How many legs it actually has I did not
+stop to count, but I saw its nasty fangs and preferred keeping a
+respectable distance from them.</p>
+
+<p>A nasty lizard such as I have before mentioned was shortly after
+discovered in the thatch of my house just over my head, and captured
+after an exciting hunt. One creeps when these creatures are brought so
+near one, and is thankful for daily protection from them.</p>
+
+<p>To-day has been the occasion of an important event here, viz: the
+thatching of a gamal (men’s quarters). This, indeed, is one of the
+greatest events known here, and there has been much feasting and
+festivity. The men do the thatching, and neighbours and strangers from a
+distance come to assist. There must have been quite a hundred men at
+work to-day, and it was the part and duty of the women to prepare food
+for them, and judging by the quantity spread out to-night they must have
+been kept pretty busy at work.</p>
+
+<p>The house was a large one, and it took most of the day to finish it. The
+roof when complete was most neat, and a perfect protection from heat and
+wet for many years to come. The thatch is made from the frond of the
+sago palm and very durable. Cocoanut fronds are sometimes used, but they
+do not make so neat a roof nor nearly so lasting.</p>
+
+<p>These native houses, although seemingly such poor structures, take some
+time and skill in building, and are very fair habitations when finished.
+They are rather low according to our ideas of comfort, but the natives
+grow accustomed to a crouching posture within doors, and they say the
+low roof does not catch the wind so easily, nor is the interior so cold.
+This is a consideration for people with no clothing, and I know myself
+from experience how cool it sometimes is here. Indeed, this very year I
+have never passed a night without being covered with a blanket, and even
+then I have not quite kept the cold away. A native, however, generally
+sleeps near a fire, and the interior of their houses are very snug.
+After the work was done this evening there was a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24">{24}</a></span> great brew of kava, a
+drink made from the root of the kava plant, but here called “Malowo,”
+and highly intoxicating. There is much ceremony in connection with the
+drinking of this beverage, which as far as I have seen, if taken in fair
+moderation, produces strong inebriation, but is not an excitant, nor
+does it leave any ill effects when once the narcotic effects pass off.
+Any one who drinks is supposed to do so fasting, in order, I believe,
+that the draught may have the more effect. One or two cups are enough to
+produce intoxication, but of course men will make beasts of themselves
+in the drinking of kava, as well as of any other strong drink. Here it
+is prepared from the green root, and grated up with a rough, round coral
+stone, then squeezed into cups made of the half of a cocoanut shell,
+strained and mixed with water, after which it is ready for imbibation.
+To look at it is like soap suds, and to the taste it is like what I
+should suppose that compound resembled, with an additional admixture of
+rhubarb and magnesia, with a suspicion of strong senna or black draught.
+Indeed I think it is about the nastiest potion conceivable, and no
+wonder the drinker takes an unconscionably long time in swallowing the
+compound, and when finished would almost rather he had never drunk it. I
+was very glad to see most of our own people at school and prayers, but I
+believe some have reserved the ‘nightcap’ till nearer bed-time. When the
+drowsiness is over I believe a craving for food results, and then the
+appetite is appeased even if it be in the middle of the night.
+Certainly, however, a man is never quarrelsome over his cups, but a
+drowsiness and torpor creep over the most quarrelsome and irrepressive
+after the draught. The mode of preparation similar to that practised
+here obtains in all the Northern New Hebrides, as far as I know, but at
+Mota and the Banks’ Islands generally, and in Fiji it is prepared by a
+process of mastication, and is not nearly so intoxicating in its
+effects. At Santa Cruz and in the Solomon Islands the use of the kava is
+unknown, but instead they chew the betel nut.</p>
+
+<p>I had the old men for school to-night, and very interesting it was, old
+blind Sulu (Daniel) was among the number and paid the greatest
+attention, assenting in a marked fashion when anything especially
+pleased him. Poor fellow, he finds wonderful comfort in his religion,
+and is a most regular attendant at all services and at school. He gets
+about wonderfully in spite of his blindness, and does wonderful things
+for a man so totally blind. His patience and cheerfulness under his
+affliction are marvellous, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25">{25}</a></span> he seems to live in hopeful anticipation
+of the time when he shall see his Lord and Master face to face, Whom now
+he sees with the inward eyes of his spirit. He is the only blind man
+here, and I have never seen but one dumb man in these islands.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, 28th July.</i>&mdash;Our people had a great dance last night after
+school which they kept up with great spirit and vigour until an early
+hour this morning. The occasion was the thatching of the new gamal, and
+a great many took part, and never once intermitted their vigour from the
+start to the finish. The dance is called a “Sagoro,” but the chief part
+of it consists of singing with a clapping of hands and peculiar dancing
+in time. It is no easy work, and when I went to see them about the
+middle of the performance the perspiration was running down their
+bodies. Some of the songs are very pretty, but the movement of the dance
+is not particularly graceful or elegant. The women stand in a ring
+outside, and what is called “weluwelu.” This ‘weluing’ consists in
+keeping the feet close together and moving the knees from right to left
+besides joining in the chorus. Their shrill voices sound quite weird
+along with the deep tones of the males, but by no means discordant.
+Native songs have mostly an air sung by one voice, and a chorus joined
+in by all, and these Maewoese are noted for their songs. I did not
+attempt to go to sleep before the performance was over, and the
+consequence was a slight dilatoriness this morning, which as might be
+expected, was not only manifest in my case. However, after morning
+duties here I started with Arthur Huqe and Patrick for Mandurvat,
+passing through the pretty snug little village of Naruru on the way.
+Here we found a man by name ‘Tamaragai’ sitting with his pretty wife and
+child in the neat enclosure in front of his house. All the other
+denizens of the village according to the invariable custom which
+prevails here, had scattered to the four winds. After the dew is off the
+bushes here there is a general exodus from all the villages, and at noon
+it is useless to look for any one at home, for all are abroad. They are
+very industrious people and find perpetual occupation in their gardens
+or elsewhere from morning till evening. They say if they stay at home
+they do nothing but sleep, and a native has not many resources for
+occupying his time indoors. They have a great dread of the dew, for they
+say it engenders elephantiasis. Cases of this unpleasant disease are
+very prevalent here, and it looks very odd to see men and women with
+great swollen legs and feet and monster hands and arms. However, those
+afflicted with it do not seem to suffer so much pain as discomfort.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26">{26}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We reached our destination after a somewhat weary walk on account of the
+dampness of the roads after the heavy rain in the night. I found a nice
+new school, and the teachers awaiting my arrival. The population is
+small, but the people are well-intentioned and anxious for instruction
+as exhibited by their having built the school entirely themselves. The
+leading spirit there and his wife came to-day and asked for Baptism, and
+desired that they should at once be put under instruction for that
+sacred Rite. This was cheering, and I hope the example thus set will be
+largely followed. Food according to native custom had been prepared, and
+green cocoanuts, and we spent some considerable time with the kind
+hearted people. They have only an inferior teacher, but he is very
+zealous to do his best according to the amount of wisdom and knowledge
+he possesses. They have some sort of daily service and school, but it
+must of necessity be very elementary.</p>
+
+<p>It is etiquette here for the host or someone appointed by him to see you
+off the premises, and this afternoon we were escorted some distance from
+the village by most of the male population, and when at what was looked
+upon as a respectable distance they stepped to one side, a sign that
+that was the last we should have of their society, and calling my name
+the host said, “Iya, go sage,” which is perhaps equal to “There, you go
+up,” to which I was supposed to respond calling his name, “Io, go toga,”
+“All right, you stop.” We then started for home. Arriving at Na Ruru the
+major part of the population were awaiting us, and Anthony the teacher
+with them, fear has driven him and his little flock to take refuge here,
+the third exodus they have made from their homes, and it is hoped that
+at last they will be safe from the ruthless incursions of the heathen
+bushmen. Poor fellow, he had begun to build a substantial new church,
+which was left with the other houses in their precipitate flight, but
+nothing daunted he has begun a third time to collect materials for
+another building. Had they continued however where they were, I doubt if
+they would have been molested. The only excuse for so doing would have
+been that they were friends of the villagers attacked by the bushmen. We
+sat for some time in conversation with the friendly people until the
+sinking sun warned us to be up and moving homewards. After prayers and
+singing, which we always have by an unvariable custom instead of school
+on Wednesday evenings, I received a request from some heathen strangers,
+twenty in number, that they might dance before me. I assented,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">{27}</a></span> and now
+at a late hour they are still at it, and going ahead with such vigour
+that I do not like to stop them. This dance is a piece of policy, for I
+am supposed to give them a handsome gratuity at the end, and the request
+to-night has been for tobacco. I am supposed also to be very liberal on
+these occasions, and certainly they have earned their wages. Their dance
+is very like that of the Tanrig people, but of course the songs are
+somewhat different, and to my taste not so pleasing. It is certainly
+curious that people living really in such close proximity should speak a
+dialect so utterly different that I can scarcely understand a word they
+say. I always assent to their dancing for it brings them here in large
+numbers, and for no ulterior purposes, and I like in every way to
+cultivate all friendly feeling between ourselves and our neighbours.
+Their powers of endurance are wonderful, there were many small boys
+among the dancers to-night, and the hands of my watch pointed to nearly
+2 o’clock a.m. before they finished, and previously they must have
+walked some twelve or fifteen miles over very rugged country. It must be
+considered too that these dances are performed without any intermission,
+and carried through with great vigour to the very end. I believe they
+had contemplated going on till morning, but that would be too terrible.
+Now as I write this they are gone, and the place is as quiet as if I
+were alone the sole inhabitant. I am now quite ready for bed and have
+really been so for hours, but the din and noise would render sleep an
+impossibility. God grant that in time these heathen songs may be changed
+for Christian hymns.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, 29th July.</i>&mdash;My house has been thronged all day with heathen
+visitors, and I have tried to say something about our blessed religion.
+I hope they were duly impressed. They certainly gave me a warm
+invitation to visit them which I shall not be backward to accept, and
+moreover they promised to pick me out two or three boys to go to Norfolk
+Island. One man was most anxious to visit Norfolk Island, and I promised
+him that if he were so minded when the ship came back his wish should be
+gratified. I dare say I was quite safe in my promise, for no doubt he
+will cry off at the last. However, I hope I may get the boys. Everything
+was a matter of astonishment to these poor people, who have rarely if
+ever seen a white man, and a trumpet and pop gun which I gave a small
+boy produced the most unbounded delight. I wish my good friend
+Archdeacon Stock and Miss Kreeft had been here to see what unfeigned joy
+their kind gifts produced. A prettily dressed doll I brought with me,
+and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28">{28}</a></span> which came too, I think, from Wellington, has been the seven day
+wonder during my visit. Yesterday one of the boys threw it down by
+accident, and the frail waxwork fell to pieces. There has been more
+lament over that lifeless toy than over half a dozen ordinary female
+human beings. Agnes, however, this morning disgorged a beautiful doll of
+her own, which she got from a Christmas tree, carefully wrapped in ample
+folds of calico, and the Bushmen I think will never lose the impression
+the revelation of its beauty produced upon them.</p>
+
+<p>How true it is that little things please little minds, and what a boon
+it is that the adage is so true. To us, whom civilization and the
+natural fitness of things have raised so far above nature, it is a
+matter of a striking character to see these heathens on their travels.
+They are burdened with absolutely nothing except a club or bow and
+arrows in their hands. Their dress is but a slight remove from the
+original fig leaf of the garden of Eden, and they carry neither bedding
+nor food. They sleep anywhere and eat what they can get. Their endurance
+in the matter of food too is extraordinary, whether they eat or whether
+they eat not does not seem to affect them, and in this way they beat us
+all to fits on the march. These Bushmen tell me they prefer making a
+journey in rain for it is cooler, and the only change of raiment they
+need at the end is to dry nature’s clothing before a fire. They are a
+very hardy race, I suppose from being inured to hardship all their
+lives.</p>
+
+<p>I missed poor blind Sulu from school to-day, and on enquiring for him
+was told that his pet pig, whose tusks are getting long and very sharp,
+importuned him beyond bearing, and that in kicking out to get rid of him
+the tusk ran into his foot and almost right through it. Poor old fellow,
+I am going by and bye to see what I can do to administer comfort to him.</p>
+
+<p>Arthur too is very much out of sorts, and could not put in an appearance
+at school to-day. For some months he has suffered from lassitude and
+weakness, and has been troubled with nasty sores. Fortunately I have a
+bottle of Hop Bitters with me, the effect of which I am going to try
+with him. Fancy the popularity of this wonderful tonic when it even
+finds its way to these distant islands! I have known it used with very
+beneficial results, and I hope Arthur may improve under its influence
+and strengthening properties.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, July 30th.</i>&mdash;A somewhat idle and prurient curiosity led me with
+some of our people to ‘Uta’ this morning to witness<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29">{29}</a></span> a sort of masked
+ball about which I had heard a great deal, and which was supposed to be
+something quite extraordinary. We started fairly early in the morning,
+and arrived at the place after a long, hot, and fatiguing walk. The
+ceremonies were not perfectly arranged when we got there, and we waited
+a long, weary time. It was mainly through my urging that they began when
+they did, and after all the affair was disappointing.</p>
+
+<p>The initial performance was a song sung by four men to an accompaniment
+beaten on bamboos, but that was by no means impressive. The females
+during this performance advanced and squatted around the performers and
+poor things were almost roasted alive under the blazing rays of the
+midday sun. When the song was finished the maskers rushed out, 17 in
+number with very curious and savage-looking head pieces, and petticoats
+of long sago palm leaves reaching almost to the ground. They presented a
+very weird and uncanny appearance certainly as they danced forth and
+back and uttered their gruff “Ugh, ugh, ugh, ugh.” I do not wonder at
+weak minded females and small children being very terrified of them. The
+head pieces were decided works of art, and very well made. Thirteen were
+almost entirely of the same make and pattern and are called “Rauwe,”
+three were again somewhat of a different shape and fashion called
+“Tamate,” and one very elongated and strangely devised mask also called
+a ‘Tamate’ completed the list. When the dancing was over which was
+called ‘Welu,’ the Rauwes rushed flying about all over the place, and
+the wiser course was to keep out of their way. In former days I believe
+they carried heavy sticks, or even clubs, and struck at anyone who
+failed to get out of their way. Boys and females were the chief objects
+of their attacks, and sometimes considerable injury resulted. Of course
+if any one retaliated and gave blow for blow, a skrimmage of perhaps
+serious and general nature resulted, and ended probably in lives being
+sacrificed.</p>
+
+<p>To-day these rough maskers carried clubs and long handled axes, and
+nothing was feared from them. The tamates were much more quiet and
+danced quietly about like so many kiwis (native New Zealand bird), and
+molested no one. They represent a higher grade in the social scale and
+their intentions are always pacific. For some days after the ceremony
+they are allowed to sail about the country and take what they please in
+the shape of food, &amp;c. if it happens to come in their way, indeed I
+believe the people put it out for them and render every assistance to
+send them away full handed. The tamate mask has no eyehole, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30">{30}</a></span> the
+rauwe head piece has every facility for observation to facilitate its
+hilter skilter rush. The native idea of these things I believe is that
+if anyone dies who has not paid for these masks, he is haunted by them
+in the hereafter, at their places of departed spirits, “Banoi.” The
+tamates protect the disembodied spirits and conduct them safely to their
+final destination in Banoi. Moreover, I believe that those who die
+without propitiating these tamates and rauwes by gifts of pigs and mats
+are transformed into flying foxes, and adorn for ever the courts of an
+ill-fated Banoi. When the ‘welu’ was over, great cakes of cooked food
+were disgorged from their covering of leaves and distributed, the men
+behind a very curious screen called “Bugoro” distributing to men, and
+the women on one side of the village square distributing to women. The
+busy and animated scene was often disturbed by one or more of the rauwes
+rushing wildly about, and the women utterly regardless of food or
+hospitality, tore hilter skilter in screams of terror to some place of
+temporary security. It was now getting late, and as we had a journey
+before us and the performance was virtually over, except the kava
+drinking, we wished our friend good-bye and started for home, getting
+here in time for dinner, both by the time of day and by the condition of
+an appetite which had not been appeased since morning. On the whole I do
+not think the ceremony was at all worth the labour it cost to witness,
+and having seen it once, one would scarcely care to trouble about it a
+second time. However, it has its due effect upon the natives of both
+sexes, and it is looked upon by many as of paramount importance as
+regards both the present time and the future. To the newly initiated it
+gives certain social rights and privileges, but the strict observance
+with many is a thing of the past. It has only to do with the males,
+females may enjoy no special benefit from the practice except to assist
+as ornamental observers, and to bring beast burdens of food for
+distribution. What becomes of their poor souls hereafter is a matter for
+no anxiety or consideration, indeed I suppose the doubt is as to their
+possessing such things as souls at all, so that their final destination
+can only be a matter of supreme indifference and of the most
+insignificant importance. A hazy indefinite belief therefore these
+people have in some hereafter, and they endeavour to make some provision
+for it while they can, but they have no distinct form of religion, nor
+any images to which they offer worship. They have some kind of
+propitiatory sacrifice however of food and shell money, and whatever
+prayer they have is made to the spirits of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31">{31}</a></span> ancestors. Almost
+invariably a dying man calls to his father, and we have frequently
+noticed that when a sick person arrives at this stage of illness, his
+case is very bad indeed, if not hopeless. Yesterday as we were waiting
+at the entrance to the village, the people called my attention to a
+peculiar kind of red grass which had been chewed up, and the refuse
+strewn about all over the path, and they told me that this was done by
+the master of ceremonies to make the visitors take delight and interest
+in the festivities, and to raise the wish in the minds of the
+uninitiated to swell the ranks of those who had already taken the
+initiatory steps in social rank. Like all natives of course these people
+are utterly superstitious, and any little thing of a slightly
+extraordinary nature serves to determine or deter their mode of action.
+There is a certain class of persons among them who read these signs and
+comment upon them, just as the ancient oracles, and these persons are
+consulted in every matter of public or private interest. No one takes a
+journey or engages in any matter without recourse to this oracle, but as
+of old in case of failure, the matter is explained ambiguously.
+Superstition indeed creeps into almost every concern of daily life, and
+its effect upon one would be very wearying and irritating, except of
+course that superior mindedness ought to condescend and bear with such
+human frailties when one considers the education under which these poor
+folks have been brought up from generation to generation. Much, I think,
+of this weak mindedness is passing away under Christian regime, and more
+and more I suppose will it disappear as the day breaks and the shadows
+flee away.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, July 31st.</i>&mdash;A peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed that I
+could not sleep even under a blanket. The people all experienced the
+same cold, and they said it was because of the calmness of the night and
+the heavy dew. Had there been a fire near, I could readily have got up
+to sit over it. The nights here are generally cool, but last night was
+absolutely cold. What shall I do when I go to England? This morning
+however, it is supremely lovely, and the wind in the S.W. for a wonder,
+for the S.E. Trades usually blow nine months out of the twelve. This
+morning I tried a photograph, which I dare say will prove a failure,
+from the extra care I took to prevent all mistakes. I only attempted
+one, but I hope I shall gain courage and experience as I go on and be
+able to reproduce some of these lovely views here. Of course every view
+is shut in more or less by the density of the surrounding bush, but this
+village has a considerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32">{32}</a></span> clearing and a good long vista for a
+photograph. My first attempt was on the church with some natives in the
+foreground, but the view will miss a great deal in a picture, owing to
+the absence of the beautiful colouring. It seems the fashion now-a-days
+here to build houses, and large parties to-day were busy thatching two
+new ones. I went with Patrick, Arthur Huqe and some more of the boys to
+Ruosi where we had a delicious bathe in the river, washed our clothes,
+caught prawns which we cooked very ingeniously in a bamboo. The prawns
+are put into the bamboo with water, and then placed on the fire with the
+orifice slightly elevated. It soon starts boiling, and to prevent the
+bamboo (always a green one) burning through it is constantly turned
+round and round, and in a very short time the prawns come out cooked
+red, and ready for eating. Cooked in salt water they are very nice, and
+they are looked upon as an especial delicacy when eaten with cocoanut
+cream. It is perfectly surprising what a number of dishes these natives
+wot of, and how frequently they vary their menu. Here they are
+especially good cooks, and I like most of their dishes very much. They
+are all slightly indigestible, but that one somehow expects. In most
+Melanesian islands the yam is the staple article of diet, but here the
+taro has the preference, and is planted in larger quantities. The yam
+likes a dry situation, but the kind of taro in common use here
+flourishes in a damp soil, and this is prepared for it by a neat and
+skilful system of irrigation.</p>
+
+<p>While we were sitting there at Ruosi one of the men told me a curious
+custom they have here. I knew him of old to be an habitual and heavy
+kava drinker, now he told me he never drank it and had not for months.
+It appears that persons who enjoy a certain rank can deny the use of
+this beverage to any one they like, and they place a sort of ‘tabu’ over
+the kava bowl, and this tabu is not taken off again until a pig or its
+equivalent is paid. A short time ago kava drinking became so general in
+the school as to impede the working of it, for teachers and scholars
+drank alike. The boys and young men therefore met together and laid
+mutual tabus upon each other, and for some time past very little kava
+has been drunk by those attending, and no one of those on whom the tabu
+was laid has chosen yet to take it off.</p>
+
+<p>This same man told me another curious custom they have with respect to
+revenge. If a man has a grudge against another and he wishes to kill
+him, or if he wishes to kill someone as a set off against someone
+belonging to him having been killed, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33">{33}</a></span> refuses to wash his hands until
+such time as they can be washed with blood. He told me of three
+brothers, Bushmen, who swore to kill a man apiece, the two younger
+brothers have already performed their part of the contract, but the dirt
+is still thick on the hands of the eldest, and he still means murder
+when he can get the convenient opportunity. It does not matter much, I
+believe, who the victim is as long as he has not many friends to
+retaliate. Poor weak inoffensive mortals in this way often lose their
+lives, innocent sacrifices to heathen brutalism and bloodthirstiness. We
+came home in the cool of the most glorious evening, a strange contrast
+in its peace and loveliness to the rage and horror of savage brutalism.
+A quiet evening service and the song of melody seemed more in tune with
+the scene without, and I trust that the Peace of God which passeth all
+understanding may ever keep our hearts and minds in the knowledge and
+love of God and of His Son Jesus Christ.</p>
+
+<p>I gave notice last Sunday of Holy Communion to-morrow, and this evening
+I held a Communicants’ class at which were present the two Arthurs and
+Patrick. Anthony and Samuel are too far away to be able to attend. I
+cannot but esteem it a high privilege and blessing to be enabled to
+receive and dispense the Bread of Life here in this once heathen
+village, and I pray that we may be strengthened and refreshed for our
+work, and show forth God’s praise not only with our lips but in our
+lives, and by giving up ourselves more fully to His service. May the
+time too be hastened when some of these good people may be permitted to
+partake of the visible tokens of redeeming love.</p>
+
+<p>It is now late, and except for the singing of crickets, perfectly still,
+fit prelude, I trust, to a peaceful Sabbath.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, August 1st.</i>&mdash;Another peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed
+that I could not sleep although I had taken care to make proper
+preparations against it. How these poor ill clad, blanketless people
+fare I cannot make out, but no doubt they pile on the wood. It was most
+perfectly calm all through the night, and this morning there was a very
+heavy dew. The wind was blowing from some westerly quarter, and it has
+continued there with some strength all the day. We began our day very
+early with a Celebration of the Holy Communion. The two Arthurs,
+Patrick, and myself made up the quorum. It was a nice, quiet, refreshing
+time, and a fresh and green oasis in a somewhat arid, spiritual desert.
+I think, perhaps, it belongs to the native character and disposition to
+do without certain things which are to us essential,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34">{34}</a></span> and the loss even
+of the Holy Communion is not so serious deprivation to them as to us.
+Native minds, I fancy, adapt themselves too readily to the existing
+condition of things, and because they live in the desert they must never
+even pine for the food and water which is not directly attainable.
+Unless the Holy things of our religion are kept before them in constant
+practice they are too wont to dispense with them, and be content with
+the dry husks such as their neighbours around feed upon. I shall
+therefore try to keep up the regular administration of the Holy
+Communion both for the present strengthening and refreshing of their
+souls, and for a continual remembrance that the reception of it is
+necessary to salvation. Easy native natures are too apt to float along
+with the popular stream, and to be content with dry, dull teaching and
+drier, duller services, and I sometimes long for the time when we shall
+have a more ornate church and appointments, and a more elaborate ritual.
+I firmly believe it would be helpful to the congregation. Now we are too
+content with such things as we have, and they are poor at the best.</p>
+
+<p>After the Celebration we had school. We assembled first in the
+schoolhouse, sang a hymn and I said a Prayer, then divided into classes,
+I myself taking all the old men into the Church, and trying to explain
+the sense of the collect to them. I told them how God had prepared for
+them that love Him such good things as pass man’s understanding, and I
+asked them how we knew that. I told them that God had revealed these
+things to us by His Son Jesus Christ, and He had left His testimony with
+us in His Gospel, and the books which persons chosen by Him had written
+under the influence and direction of His Holy Spirit. Their religion was
+a matter of mere hearsay and conjecture, and had been handed on from
+mouth to mouth, and had grown as it came down after the manner of mere
+verbal testimony. There could be no doubt with us because we have the
+living testimony of Christ’s own words which never pass away. Their
+religion came from nowhere and no one knew of its beginning; of ours at
+all events we were sure. I told them too that in England and other
+countries, where arts and sciences were known and practised far beyond
+anything they could conceive of, there were things so marvellous that
+their understanding could not grasp even the faintest idea of them, and
+how much more marvellous, wonderful, and glorious must the things be
+which God has prepared for such as love Him. Why even here below we see
+great and wonderful and mysterious things which pass the understanding
+of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35">{35}</a></span> world’s wisest minds, and how much more wonderful still must the
+things be which are to be revealed hereafter, when the eye shall be
+purified to see, the ear to hear, and the senses to discern the beauty
+and true glory of them. And what does God, who thus prepares these
+blessed things for us, require of us? Why to love Him above all things.
+Each one of us had some darling idol, to which we offered the devotion
+of our hearts, but it must be torn down and removed if it comes before
+our love to God. And the end of this love was God Himself, and to dwell
+with Him for ever as inheritors of His gracious promises which exceed
+all that we can desire. The old fellows were very attentive, and
+interspersed running remarks, and when I had done I asked them to kneel
+down, and I said the Collect as a Prayer for them. Meanwhile the other
+teachers had school with their scholars in the schoolhouse. The first
+class of boys and girls had to say their Collect by heart, and after
+that they were questioned on its meaning. School was closed with Prayer
+and a Hymn, and then I was ready for breakfast, very dry, uncooked rice
+with sugar and cocoanut cream, and a cup of delicious Norfolk Island
+coffee. Morning Prayer followed in due course before the day got too
+hot, and after this everyone was busy with their Sunday meal for the
+afternoon. The day was as hot as the night was cold, but it was most
+glorious, and all nature seemed to be keeping its Sabbath. The evening
+was perfectly serene and peaceful, a fit termination to a quiet, restful
+day.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I had the teachers, and after that service at which I
+preached from the gospel of the day, “Except your righteousness exceed
+the righteousness of the Scribes and Pharisees.” They were very
+attentive during my remarks, so I trust I was understood. I told them
+God did not want us merely to come to school and church but He wanted
+the devotion of the heart, it was not outward righteousness He wished
+for, but inward truth and honesty and straightness. The Pharisees were
+very good Churchgoers, but their heart was not right with God, &amp;c., &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>After Service we had singing which they always enjoy, and even now I
+hear their voices in the School house singing “There’s a friend for
+little children.” I had intended to have made an excursion to the
+neighbouring villages to-day but I could not manage the time, the day
+having gone so rapidly. Now it is very cool and betokens another cold
+night but Oh! how calm and peaceful!<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36">{36}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, August 2nd.</i>&mdash;Another peculiarly cold night ushered in a most
+glorious day. A very heavy dew lay all round, and until the sun was
+quite high in the heavens the cold was very perceptible, and a flannel
+coat was very agreeable. I took two photographs early and trust they are
+good, but it would be very hard to reproduce the original so lovely as
+it appeared in the morning light. The scene too was animated with the
+cheery voices of the people, the crowing of the cocks, the merry
+laughter of the boys, and even the squealing of the pigs as they
+followed their owners for their morning food, lent additional and
+characteristic charm to the occasion. All this one cannot photograph,
+but it is necessary to suppose all this to give an idea of the village
+as it is on these glorious mornings. Here we are several hundred feet
+above the sea level, and a good way inland so that a pleasant day breeze
+always fans the air, and keeps the place gratefully cool under cover of
+a roof, or in the shade. I believe one could live here quite comfortably
+all the year round, and for myself I never feel better than I do here.
+There is such a freedom too about life here that one can carry a light
+heart and a contented mind in a healthy body. To-day almost without
+exception the people are off to the beach to windward. At this time of
+year the tides are very low, and leave the reefs almost entirely
+uncovered. Fish and crabs and other sea oddities are therefore left
+exposed, and the first named are shot by the men in the pools, and the
+women collect the latter, which are looked upon as choice articles of
+diet. Just now I am left quite solitary, but I have just dismissed a
+bevy of ladies who came to see the present seven days wonder, my
+magnetic fish. They cannot fathom the mystery at all why when one point
+of the fishing rod as they call it, is presented to the fish they
+eagerly rush at it, and why when the other they rapidly retire. They
+solve the problem by saying it is a “Wui,” (spirit). And it must seem
+strange to them as all our belongings must being of an order of art, so
+far removed from their conceptions or achievements. A kerosene lamp to
+this day is a marvel to them, and the manipulation equally mysterious,
+why it should flare up when turned one way, and why it should die when
+turned the other. One old woman who has been very sick and up to-day for
+the first time, came with the crowd and greeted me in the most maternal
+manner, grasping my hand in both her own, and calling me “Baua,” an
+obsolete word now, but belonging to a district called “Loqala” which was
+utterly devastated years ago by enemies among whom were these very
+people of Tanrig. This<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37">{37}</a></span> old lady and her son Samuel, now my head teacher
+at Tasmouri, are the sole survivors I believe, and she retains the
+expression or appelation by which a grandmother greets her grandson.</p>
+
+<p>I brought a box of refuse toys from Norfolk Island to which our boys and
+girls there have grown superior, and the exhibition and distribution of
+them created quite a furore. One would never suppose in these days of
+superior enlightenment that any people could be found simple enough to
+go into ecstacies over a halfpenny toy, but these women and children
+have gone off perfectly enraptured with their new possessions, and I
+dare say they will treasure them up for many a day and find pleasure in
+the contemplation and exhibition of them. One poor young mother has just
+brought in great distress her infant child which she says is suffering
+from a pain in its side, and the only remedy I can conceive of is a dose
+of castor oil. The father comes around to my side of the table, and
+whispers that it has not been ‘washed’ yet, meaning that it has not been
+Baptized, and that it has no name. While writing this Samuel appeared
+with another friend from Tasmouri, and I went with them to the beach
+where all the population had previously gone. Our path lay through the
+carefully and skilfully irrigated taro fields, and of course it was very
+bad in some places. Crossing one place I made a false step and went up
+to my knees, it was a fitting judgment on my pride for I refused the
+assistance of a stalwart follower’s back, which had borne me dry and
+safely over two such places before. I presented a strangely harlequin
+appearance with white flannel trowsers above the knee, and black mud
+gaiters below. However appearances are easily pardoned here, and the
+only grief was at my own discomfort. The people of course all said it
+was because the roads were so bad, but that was too palpable a truism,
+and was no relief to my feelings. Bootless and trowserless, these paddy
+paths make no difference to them, and mud has not the same appearance on
+a black skin. However we went to the sea-shore and saw the sport which
+was not much. One very large fish was caught with a hook and line, and
+the women had great horse-loads of shell fish, but generally the bowmen
+came off badly. The tide was out to the utmost limit of the reef, and
+quite half-a-mile from the shore the rocks were entirely exposed. Of
+course there was some very good reason for the failure and ill luck, and
+I was somewhat surprised to hear the wind blamed. It so happened that
+what of that element there was, was off shore, but if it had been only
+blowing in shore<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">{38}</a></span> it would have driven in the fish. However there was
+disappointment depicted on every countenance, and there was some
+trifling relief to the feelings in putting the blame on the wind.
+Probably if the wind is all right to-morrow something else will be
+wrong, and so on. What a wonderful place in the English language those
+two little words ‘if’ and ‘but’ have, and how they qualify almost every
+action of mankind, and how usually are they made use of in
+self-extenuation. How scarcely possible is it to describe a single
+character without the use of one or other of them! He would be a very
+nice fellow ‘if.’ She would be an estimable woman ‘but.’ On our homeward
+road I marched boldly through mud and water taking pride I suppose in
+revenging myself, and showing my unmentionables that now the pink of
+their whiteness was off, they might just as well be a little more dirty.
+However, a refreshing bath was some return for my chagrin and
+discomfort, and I hastened home for a clean change. The cooks brought me
+two deliciously cooked fish for dinner, and were very disappointed when
+I sent them back untasted. I am never very partial to fish, and in these
+latitudes my digestive organs rebel even against the smell of them.
+However, the boys very soon picked the bones, and perhaps were not sorry
+that I had not partaken. There is great feasting going on to-night with
+both sexes, the men with their fish supper and the women with
+shell-fish.</p>
+
+<p>Everywhere to-day we saw the bush lit up with the bright red “Rarava,” a
+gorgeous tree, which flowers at this time of the year, and gives its
+name to the winter season. The other season is called “Magoto” from a
+reed of that name which shoots in spring, and these are the only native
+seasons of the year. There does not seem to be however any very marked
+distinction or peculiar line of demarcation between summer and winter as
+regards the heat and cold, but in fact it does seem to be warmer in the
+“Magoto” and cooler in the “Rarava.” To an Englishman however it is
+always hot, and he does not detect any material difference. One shivers
+now to think of ice and snow and of such concomitants of the winter
+season, for here of course they are absolutely unknown.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, August 3rd.</i>&mdash;It gets somewhat monotonous to write every day
+of cold nights, but this last one has been no exception. The cold is so
+peculiar and penetrating that clad in flannel from head to foot, and
+covered with a blanket and rug, I failed to keep it out, and slept very
+badly in consequence. When I did sleep, too, I was troubled with dreams
+and fancied myself in Ireland<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39">{39}</a></span> hunted by ‘Moonlighters.’ I had proposed
+to go to a very distant district called “Golvanua” to-day, but at the
+eleventh hour my escort cried off and I could not go alone. I cannot
+quite say why it is, but natives when they are about to make an
+excursion almost invariably start on the spur of the moment without
+making any previous appointment, or specifying any distinct time.
+Whether they wish to elude ‘Fate’ and deprive it of the chance of being
+unpropitious by stealing a march, or whether the fear of material foes
+induces them to do these things secretly so that they may not be
+cognizant of their movements, or what it is I do not know, but fact it
+is that if you want to make a journey, you must abide the native’s time
+and conveniences for they will seldom assent to yours if premeditated or
+prearranged.</p>
+
+<p>I quite expect that some fine morning, before I am out of bed perhaps,
+my escort will be awaiting me outside my door, and anxiously and
+impatiently desiring to start at once. Natives make no preparation for a
+journey, they have no impedimenta of travel, and lightly clad, and
+lightly weighted, they are ready at any moment to start, and a long or
+short stay is all the same to them. They want no canteens or bedding or
+change of clothing, and they can lay their heads down in any spot, and
+rest and refresh themselves, and be ready for any emergency. They do not
+even need as much as a tooth brush and pair of slippers for their
+excursions, and marvel at our wanting so much to them unnecessary
+luggage. I believe I should make many more journeys, if I could
+accomplish them with so little inconvenience and discomfort.</p>
+
+<p>Samuel went back this morning, and I am to go to Tasmouri on Friday for
+a week. He gives a very good account of his work there and I am anxious
+to see and judge for myself. The whole Community there are Baptized, and
+most exemplary Christians they are. They are very nice lively
+good-natured people too, but are not very numerous. Indeed these Maewo
+villages have dwindled down to very few inhabitants, from one cause and
+another, and a large measure of the decrease is owing to the wide spread
+practice of infanticide. Now in this district that practice, thank God,
+is checked and the population is again on the increase. Moses who was
+here with Samuel to-day asked me to Baptize while at Tasmouri his fourth
+child, three boys of his are already Baptized, and such mothers as his
+wife are a blessing to the race. Here two mothers have three children
+apiece, and several have two. I wish however the mothers would bring up<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40">{40}</a></span>
+their children a little better, they are the perfect slaves of their
+offspring, and give into them in everything. Talk about spoilt children,
+I have to roar every day of my life to some little urchin, screaming his
+lungs out because his mother does not do at once what he wants. The
+mother beats at one moment and coaxes at another, and the child grows up
+anyhow, a burden to himself and a nuisance to his neighbours. I want a
+good superior minded and well educated mother here to give some
+practical advice. Arthur’s wife is but a child herself, and as devoid of
+gumption as the rest of them. Poor people, they do not know what trouble
+and misery they entail upon themselves and their children from a want of
+a little firmness, and well timed correction.</p>
+
+<p>It has been a most glorious day, and this morning I accepted an
+invitation from the boys to go to ‘Kerepei.’ The tide was very low and
+many of the people had preceded us, and were busy searching the reef and
+rocks for the much prized products of the sea shore. The little fellows
+got me most deliciously sweet green cocoanuts, and while I was bathing
+caught me a nice lot of prawns for my tea. Days spent in this way are
+very pleasant, for we get to know each other all the better, and I can
+exercise a continual supervision over their actions. I generally carry a
+paper or portable volume with me, and to-day the Church Times was my
+companion. The evening was most glorious and peaceful, but when the sun
+went down peculiarly cold. Now as I write I have a blazing fire in my
+house, and I feel the comfort of it. The poor ill clad people are
+shivering all around, and are off to their several domiciles to try and
+get some heat. The attendance at school to-night was worse than I have
+known it yet, and the cold was said to be the reason of it.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, August 4th.</i>&mdash;There seems a perfect rage for fishing just
+now, when the exceptionally low tides afford such advantages for the
+pursuit. School was no sooner over to-day, than there was a general
+exodus seaward of all the able bodied inhabitants of the place. They
+talk to-day of trying the “Tasigoro” to see what it yields. This
+Tasigoro is a tabu’d enclosure of so much of the reef as those who make
+it choose, and it is made in this way&mdash;one, two, three or indeed any
+number of people who have reached the rank of “welu” kill a certain kind
+of pig, and for ten days the killer or killers are supposed to subsist
+on pig’s flesh, at the end of ten days they go to the beach, and mark
+off the chosen portion of the beach with a long bamboo at either end,
+like a base for football, but on a somewhat larger<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">{41}</a></span> scale, and tie on to
+the bamboo the leaf of a certain palm tree; the person or persons then
+bathe in that part of the sea, and the juice of the pig’s flesh which
+they have eaten, is supposed to have the effect of sanctifying in some
+way the place, and no one fishes within the enclosure until the “welus”
+choose to take the “tabu” off. There is a talk of doing this to-day, and
+the whole population turns out to it. Of course the whole length and
+breadth of the reef during these low tides is left high and dry, and the
+fish have wisdom enough to retire as the tide goes out, but some are
+dilatory like Lot in his flight from Sodom, and some stop to have a look
+back like his wife, these are therefore left behind in the several pools
+that are everywhere dotted about of more or less depth. Some fish again
+which feed upon the reef have natural channels of escape into deep
+water, but these are very skilfully guarded by the natives with large
+nets, and the fish are captured while making a rush to get out into the
+open sea. All these channels are carefully guarded, and a very large
+number of fish shut in from escape on the more or less exposed reef. The
+leaves of a certain shrub are used for the purpose of stupifying the
+fish in the deeper pools, and they are easily caught when under the
+influence of the stupification. Others again are shot with bows and
+arrows, others speared, others caught by hand until at times the haul
+numbers several thousands, of all sorts, sizes and descriptions. After
+this great catch of course there is much feasting and rejoicing, and
+according to their own old heathen superstitious ideas there is
+something sacred in the fish so caught. ‘Kava’ is largely drunk on these
+occasions and the festivities are prolonged for many days. After my
+experience the other day I did not care to go again, and followed Arthur
+and some others to ‘Rarava,’ whither I took my photographic camera, and
+shot off a most beautiful picture in nature. I hope it may prove so in
+development.</p>
+
+<p>William, one of the men, lit a fire and soon produced some fine large
+bread-fruit which were placed on the embers, and deftly turned over and
+over so as to be properly cooked all round. The result was that in about
+a quarter of an hour I was engaged upon a smoking hot loaf of bread,
+which eaten with scraped cocoa-nut is very nice indeed. Breadfruit is
+too much like boiled dough to be really very nice, but to me it is very
+palatable food. The black outside coating peels off very readily when
+well cooked, and leaves a round puddingy sort of compound to be eaten.
+Inside are seeds somewhat bigger than a marble, not unlike<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42">{42}</a></span> filberts,
+and these are generally eaten with the breadfruit, the hard outside husk
+easily peeling off, and leaving a large bean like kernel. “Duwu”
+prepared his in quite a new way to me. Having pealed off the outside
+crust caused by the cooking, he wrapped the whole fruit up in the long
+dracæna leaves, and tied up the neck very carefully. He then took a
+small bamboo, and beat the breadfruit into a soft pulp, giving it a few
+final bangs on the ground, the leaves were opened, and the pudding
+turned out on leaves resembling very much a squash, and then cut up like
+a vegetable marrow into slices and eaten with scraped cocoanut. This I
+think was nicer than the bare breadfruit. We were a little party of
+twelve of both sexes, and all shared alike, men and women eating
+together in the most friendly manner, and not only so but the men did
+the cooking and helped the women in the nicest way. I could not help
+thinking what a contrast it was to years gone by. There we were sitting
+every man under his own vine and under his own fig, with no apparent
+fear or apprehension of evil, and the most perfect harmony of the two
+sexes existing among us. Here you scarcely ever now see the husband
+without the wife, and where you see the wife you may know the husband is
+not far off. Amina and Eliza kindly got me some land crabs which I
+enjoyed for tea. These and prawns are readily obtainable, and make a
+nice occasional change.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, August 5th.</i>&mdash;A strong Trade wind blowing fresh all night,
+and this morning it is still very gusty and disagreeable.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow there is another house to be thatched, and those who are not
+crazed about fishing are off getting food. From the commencement to the
+finish, house building here is a matter of great importance. There are
+four kinds of houses, of which the ‘gamal’ is the chief. This is the
+men’s club, and the young men’s sleeping quarters. Within its walls the
+women may not enter, and there is a certain circumscribed boundary into
+which they may not trespass. All food cooked in the ‘gamal’ is partaken
+of by the men only, and a woman may not eat of it under any
+consideration. ‘Kava’ is prepared and drunk there also, and of this a
+woman may not drink. Within the gamal are various ovens according to the
+several degrees of rank, and those of the same grade eat out of one
+oven, and the rules of precedence are strictly adhered to. Fire used
+within the gamal may not be used in a private house. After a certain age
+all boys are supposed to live in the gamal, and that becomes their
+proper quarters until<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">{43}</a></span> they marry and build houses of their own. Any man
+may sleep in the gamal and eat food there.</p>
+
+<p>The next house in importance is the “ima” or married man’s residence.
+Within this house the cooking of the food for the family is done, and
+the married couples live. This house is known from the rest, by having
+the front and back end worked with cane, and more pains are expended on
+the building of it. The third kind of house is the “vale,” within which
+there is no fire place for cooking, and this is used mostly as the
+apartments of the young females before marriage, and for stowing any
+treasures which may be inconvenient in the “ima.” The front and end of
+the ‘vale’ are made only of bamboos. A fourth kind of house is the “ima
+somu” (the Bank). In this house is kept the treasures of the village,
+and it is always known by a peculiarly neat front of reeds, and by a
+very curious sort of pallisade of reeds placed in a sort of semicircle
+around the front door. Within this house a fire is kept continually
+burning night and day, and the reason for this is that the most prized
+and valuable article of barter here is the smoked mat, and the blacker
+it can be smoked the more does it increase in value. As may be supposed,
+within these houses a most weird and odd sight presents itself. The
+gross darkness being only relieved by the glowing embers of the undying
+fire, the fresh black mats look like so many great flying foxes
+suspended over it.</p>
+
+<p>The importance of the several houses is therefore in this order, the
+“gamal,” “ima,” “vale,” and “ima somu.” When a building is finished
+there is always a great ceremony ranging in importance according to the
+description of the house. For the gamal the ‘house warming’ is a matter
+of much ceremonial called “nasu,” and a man is supposed to “nasu gamal”
+with a pig at least. Any live stock may be slaughtered in “nasu ima,”
+and fowls, or if possible fish, are mostly in requisition. Plain food
+only is required for the two latter, but all the same there must be some
+house warming, or the building would not be properly finished. The house
+I occupy is an “ima,” and being a proprietor of many pigs, I am going to
+add to the dignity and full completion of my residence, by slaughtering
+two innocent animals next Thursday (D.V.) and the school will get a
+general holiday and a pleasant evening. I do this partly because I want
+to give the boys some slight return for the pains they have been at in
+building the house, to get a piece of pork myself, and to give a holiday
+in honour of my return among them. They say they must dig an oven
+within<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44">{44}</a></span> the ‘ima’ to make the thing complete, but to this I object.
+To-morrow, all being well, I go to Tasmouri.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, August 6th.</i>&mdash;Morning Prayer, school and breakfast at Tanoriki,
+and then started with three others for Tasmouri. It was a most lovely
+day, and a fresh Trade wind fanned the air and kept the paths pleasantly
+cool. Beneath the deep, dark shade of the native forest, the strong
+burning heat of the morning sun was not oppressive, and the roads and
+bush were fortunately very dry. However, any exertion in this climate
+induces perspiration, and that one expects.</p>
+
+<p>The native guide swung along at a rapid pace, and we were not long in
+reaching “Uta,” where we rested for some time in the neat little school,
+and Takele regaled us with green cocoanuts, which were very acceptable.
+Poor Takele, who has only one enlightened friend to help him, finds a
+difficulty in getting his scholars together on a week day, and no
+wonder, as I suppose he knows very little more than they do themselves,
+and it is irksome to old people to spell over their A.B.C. day after
+day, and get no oral instruction. It is far more in consonance with
+their feelings and habits to go out for the day, either to the seashore
+or to their gardens, than to be trammelled with the cares and labour of
+school. On Sundays he says they turn up in large numbers, and generally
+some one goes to them from Tanoriki. I promised him a visit for Sunday
+week, all being well, and I shall try to keep my promise, for he
+deserves all the help we can extend to him. He has never been away, is a
+man now of middle age, and entirely self-taught. He is a most excellent,
+conscientious man, and tries to do all he can for his people, according
+to his limited amount of knowledge.</p>
+
+<p>He built the school himself and keeps it in most extraordinary order. In
+many cases he has acted as a deterrent on his countrymen, when they have
+proposed some heathen act which he has not thought to be within the
+bounds of strict rectitude, and I believe he tries to lead a good life
+as far as he knows. As far as morality goes, I do not think anyone would
+venture to bring an accusation against him. I have always intended to
+Baptize him, and perhaps this year I may put my intentions into effect.
+Leaving “Uta” we still marched on in single file, till we reached the
+brow of the cliff down which, of necessity, we had to descend, Tasmouri
+being on the other side of the island to windward. A striking and broad
+prospect greeted us from the hill top, and we saw besides Meralava and
+the wide expanse of ocean before us, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45">{45}</a></span> grand fertile plain belonging
+to the Tasmouri district, and the church and school visible in the far
+distance. At the foot of the steep cliff our way lay through the
+beautifully irrigated taro beds, and of course I had to pick my way to
+prevent being buried in mud. Leaving the gardens, we had a grand stretch
+of level country before us, and before long we came upon a merry party
+of Tasmouri people awaiting our arrival, some distance from their
+village. Being tired and hungry I pushed on ahead with some of the boys,
+and enjoyed a refreshing bathe and change of garments. Then came what I
+suppose I must dignify by the name of dinner, mostly native food, but
+eaten with the best sauce was as good as the best Lord Mayor’s feast,
+and I dare say as digestible. The Bishop’s kind present was most useful,
+and the canteen contained every article requisite for out of the way
+travellers. After the meal the people came home, and before long we had
+Evensong. I was quite surprised at the heartiness of the responses, the
+fluency of the reading, and the general brightness of the singing and
+service.</p>
+
+<p>The women sang out lustily with a good courage, and although a trifle
+slow the result was pleasing on the whole. With a little teaching the
+singing and service will be very nice. I find I have Baptized forty-six
+people here, two of whom have died, two have gone away in a labour
+vessel, and forty-two still remain. They are a very nice, genuine,
+exemplary community, and Samuel has kept them well together. They seem
+to me beyond the Tanrigese in point of mental ability, and readily take
+in fresh ideas. One or two of the young men are very superior fellows.
+This evening I felt the warmth of this place, by comparison with Tanrig,
+and for the first time for the year I have slept without any kind of
+covering. The reed bed I found somewhat hard, but one cannot expect
+everything, and is content with such things as one has. The condition of
+the people morally, socially and spiritually, simply reconcile one to
+any amount of bodily inconvenience. I can thank God and take courage.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, August 7th.</i>&mdash;Most beautiful morning at Tasmouri. After
+Prayers and breakfast we all went for a picnic to a pretty place called
+“Ron̈o nawo” meaning the sound of the surf, but why I don’t know. It is
+curious how the Mota word has got in here “nawo.” The word here for surf
+is “togovi” but nawo comes probably from Meralava. We all turned out for
+the holiday, men, women and children. The women did the cooking while
+the men and boys amused themselves in various ways, fishing,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">{46}</a></span> shooting,
+bathing or playing an animated game called “buka,” something between
+“prisoner’s base” and the old game of “tig.” Some of the young men
+amused themselves by shooting at a mark about thirty or forty yards
+distant. They made such good shooting at that distance, that I should be
+very sorry to give them a shot at me with a good well balanced poisoned
+arrow. At short distances of course they make very good work, and in
+their own skirmishes they don’t want to make long shots. I dare say by
+the side of a good English archer they would cut a sorry figure at a
+long shot, but for their own purposes they are excellent shots, and
+custom of course engenders skill. Their arrows are unfeathered, and I
+don’t expect will carry as true as the better made English arrow. Their
+bows are very strong and durable, being made curiously enough from a
+tree called the “Aru” (she oak). I spent my day pleasantly enough in
+reading and making pencil notes. Crabs and breadfruit was my luncheon,
+and a green cocoanut. The whole party assembled in the course of the
+afternoon, and the ovens were opened and their plentiful supply of food
+disgorged. I said grace and then there was a general fall to. The meal
+over we made preparation for a start homewards which we reached some
+time before sunset. On the way home the boys showed me in the water
+course a cocoanut tree which time had failed to rot or destroy, and the
+story according to native ideas was that this same tree was coexistant
+with the upheaval of the island, and had never changed, generation after
+generation handing on the fact of its existence and whereabouts.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we had Prayers in the church and a nice hearty Service.
+Poor “Samuel” the head teacher is sick and has not been able to be with
+us to-day. I gave a short address at Evensong explanatory mostly of
+to-morrow’s programme. It is very warm here and one’s thoughts either
+cease to flow or one’s hand to write, anyhow I find a difficulty in
+inducing energy to write or my brain to cogitate.</p>
+
+<p>Except for the perpetual boom and surge of the restless ocean all is
+still and peaceful here at present.</p>
+
+<p>On Saturdays following the general and long prevailing custom of the
+Mission we have a whole holiday, and consequently this morning we had
+only the shortened form of Mattins such as we use here. Breakfast
+followed consisting of yam scraped and cooked in leaves, and the
+particular kind presented for my discussion this morning is called
+“laqan̈a.” The natives are great cooks and have a very long list of
+various dishes on their menu.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47">{47}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>There are three principal modes of cooking food, however, such as yams
+and taro, (1) Roasted on the embers and the outside skin carefully
+scraped off as it gets hardened, this is called “tutunu,” (2) scraped on
+the rough edge of the tree fern, then wrapped in leaves like a large
+pudding and cooked in the hot stones, this is termed “loko,” (3) roasted
+on the fire until cooked, then beaten on a large wooden dish until as
+thin about as biscuit pastry, and cocoanut cream poured over, this is
+named “lutu.” The first two are the most common preparations, and the
+first perhaps most generally in use.</p>
+
+<p>The different kinds of “loko and lutu” are wonderful, and it would
+puzzle any one but a skilled native cook, to make any distinct varieties
+of dishes out of such unpromising materials.</p>
+
+<p>Both sexes are good cooks, and no wonder, as from the time they are able
+properly to run about, until the infirmities of old age creep on they
+are accustomed to shift for themselves. An English boy would fare very
+badly if he had to cook his own dinner, and provide for his own wants as
+early as some of these native children. But education and habit are
+everything, the latter of course is second nature.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, August 8th.</i>&mdash;At Tasmouri. Beautiful but very warm morning.
+After breakfast we had Sunday School, at which every member of the
+village population was present. I was much pleased with the way four or
+five classes repeated by heart their catechism, and the collect for the
+week, and answered general questions on the subject. It showed one that
+school was a serious and important business both with teacher and pupil.
+We went from the school into church, where we had full Morning Service
+but without any Sermon. Service over, I was followed by the whole male
+population to Tasmate. The day was very hot, and we had been obliged to
+choose the hottest part of it for our walk. However we tumbled over the
+same creepers, knocked our heads against the same branches, brushed
+against the same bristly bushes, that the natives of Maewo have done
+ever since they peopled the island. No one ever thinks of trying to
+improve his own or his neighbour’s ways, and from being accustomed so
+long to the present condition of the paths, they are quite content to
+experience the discomfort for ever and aye, they were good enough for
+their own forefathers, why should not they be good enough for them.
+Being head and shoulders taller than most of our natives, I suffered
+untold agonies mentally and physically, but I submit to the necessity,
+knowing that unless I commence to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48">{48}</a></span> improve matters myself, I may expect
+the same discomforts to the end of the chapter. My helmet on more than
+one occasion has saved my head very severe concussions, and to be
+bonnetted is no uncommon occurence. However, on we swung, I being
+thankful that the road was so level as it was, and at length arrived at
+Tasmate more fit to be comforted than to think of administering comfort
+to others. They have built a nice little school here, and by the way
+they turned up at the subsequent service it was manifest that they knew
+the use of it. Augmented by the Tasmouri people the little place was
+crowded to its fullest capabilities, and the heat and flies were not
+such as one would choose for ordinary enjoyment, but personal comforts
+with Missionaries are a secondary consideration. We had a nice service,
+and I gave a somewhat long address in spite of inconveniences, and when
+it was over I retired to the cool refreshing shade by the sea shore, and
+all at once everyone began to feel the heat and followed me there.
+However, our conversation ran in an edifying course, and I hope some
+were profited by it. The return home was the next consideration, and I
+must say it seemed formidable for a Sunday afternoon. We reached a place
+called “Na Seu,” and there I could not resist a bathe in the natural
+bathing place, under such a deliciously cool shoot of water. We came
+home by a new route which was said to be much shorter, but it turned out
+to be quite as long I think, and not nearly so pleasant walking.</p>
+
+<p>At “Uta riki,” where I formerly remember a good population, one man and
+a small child are the only surviving remnant. The rest are all scattered
+or dead. We asked him to come to Tasmouri and live there, but he would
+not consent on the spur of the moment. His son and relations left are
+mostly there. In matter of wives he has been a regular Blue Beard, and
+the last of a long list has just died, and left him a widower.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived in due course at Tasmouri, and after dinner all together,
+which the women had provided in our absence, we had Evensong, a very
+nice service with a Sermon from me. The women proposed singing
+afterwards, and this went on till late. At the Evening Service I
+Baptized the infant daughter of Moses, naming her Anika. Moses, wife,
+and four children are now a Christian family. His care of, and love for,
+his children gave me good food for my discourse afterwards, as did the
+case of ‘Dimeli’ and the remnant of his people migrating from the place
+where many had died, to a place where all were going to keep well and
+live, with the result that all have died with the exception of himself.
+There was no hope of life apart from God.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49">{49}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, August 9th.</i>&mdash;Very hot, oppressive day, and I was so ill
+throughout I did little or nothing. My efforts to get cool were utterly
+abortive. Great Christening festivities were going on all day. The
+fatted pig was killed and eaten with much thankfulness and rejoicing in
+the evening. At Evensong I screwed my courage up to a Sermon which was
+better listened to than delivered. Afterwards there was a dance.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, August 10th.</i>&mdash;I saw this morning a beardless youth, who is
+the tenth husband of a woman in the district. One of her sons is a
+full-gown man at Tasmouri, himself married many years. There is no
+accounting for taste, but on which side the love or taste is I do not
+know. Beauty of face and figure have little weight generally with
+natives, they think more of utility and position. They seem to me to
+have no idea of the sublime and beautiful either in woman or in nature
+according to our ideas, and in a very matter of fact way look to the
+practical side of the business. Polygamy here is the exception, and
+there is not so large a percentage of females as is found in some of the
+islands. However, if they are all as easily satisfied as the youth
+mentioned above, young girls will be at a premium. There is one man here
+at Tasmouri who has two wives, and he steadily refuses to divorce one or
+the other with a view to Baptism, and according to our present practice
+in the administration of that Holy Rite, we insist on monogamy.
+Strangely enough the son of this very man had five wives, four of whom
+he divorced in order to be Baptized. All the four divorced are now
+married and Baptized at Tasmouri.</p>
+
+<p>It was so intolerably hot in the village, I proposed that we should go
+to Ron̈onawo, as I was going to Tasmate to sleep and that was about a
+half-way house. All the population followed me, and there we cooked our
+dinner and rested. After the meal we had a short service there on the
+beach which was very quiet and solemn, and then with most of the men I
+turned my steps towards Tasmate, Samuel and a few others, with the women
+going back to Tasmouri. There was a great shaking of hands, some
+profusion of tears among the women, and a great deal of Christian
+harmony between us all.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving at Tasmate we found another dinner awaiting us, and a hearty
+welcome. We had Prayers after dinner with a sermon from myself, in which
+I contrasted the present visit with those they must remember to have
+known in heathen days. Then the hands were full, but the heart was
+empty, now the heart was full of love and the hands carried no bow and
+arrows. We had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">{50}</a></span> great Hymn singing afterwards, and the men sat and
+talked outside about the present and the past. There are a few hearts
+here I can see being prepared for the good seed which may God sow in His
+good time, quickly if it may be, and water the plant of grace with the
+dew of His Holy Spirit.</p>
+
+<p>We were rather late before we thought of retiring, and I was not sorry
+at length when it was proposed, for without chair or seat, except a
+native tree, there was no great pleasure in sitting.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, August 11th.</i>&mdash;Spent a very uncomfortable night at Tasmate.
+The kind people had done all they could to make me comfortable, but I
+found the bed very hard, the sleeping quarters very rough, the fleas in
+large numbers, and the mosquitos very lively. However, I have been more
+uncomfortable, and I was not unthankful to be brought safely to the
+beginning of another day. A place was named to me last evening called
+“Beitabu,” as being a most choice spot for a bathe, and it was said to
+be near at hand. Having not many toilet requisites with me, I proposed
+to one “Lulu” a denizen of the place to pilot me there. I was very
+“breakfasty” and most unrefreshed, but away we started for “Beitabu.” It
+was a fearful grind to get there, and the distance seemed to me
+interminable. Of course being well watered there were irrigated taro
+beds, and I slipped off a bank clean into the mud. Yet when the spot was
+reached it made up for all difficulties and distresses and proved to be
+a most marvellous natural bath, a large, clear, deep pool, with water
+pouring in from a charming little waterfall, and flowing out rapidly
+over the rocks below. I do not know when I have enjoyed a bath more, or
+when water had a more invigorating and refreshing effect on me.
+Fortunately my host had what breakfast there was ready for me when I got
+back, and in my state of exhaustion it did not much matter what it was.
+After breakfast we had Morning Prayer with a short address from me
+instead of school. Not long after “sail oh!” was cried and my boat
+appeared to bring me back here to Tanrig, and heartily glad am I to be
+back here again in comparative comfort. We had a pleasant but rather
+heavy row up the coast, our party on board numbering twenty-eight.
+Fortunately the sea was very smooth, and not much wind, or probably we
+should not have fared so well. All my Tasmouri friends came on with me
+and are spending the night. All were well here and the place looked much
+as usual. One little baby had died unbaptized during my absence, a
+matter of great regret to everybody, and very much so to me. I had known
+of the child’s illness, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51">{51}</a></span> it was better before I left. I had
+therefore postponed its Baptism until I could make it convenient to
+Baptize three or four more infants now waiting for the Rite.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, August 12th.</i>&mdash;General holiday. Arthur took occasion to “nasu
+ima” at the same time with me, and the great event of two house warmings
+drew together a large concourse of people. Fire was lit in my house, and
+part of a pig and two fowls were cooked in the oven. It is the custom
+here to have as many kinds of flesh as possible on these occasions, and
+as many kinds of vegetables, representing I suppose all the different
+sorts of food that will hereafter be cooked therein. There has been
+great preparation for this day, and great excitement to-day. Every
+household added its mite to the feast, and in the evening when the feast
+was spread out there was a grand display. Everyone had huge pieces of
+yam and taro and banana cake, and a large piece of fish, fowl and pork.
+The pork takes precedence, but the fish costs the greatest pains in
+provision, not being so easily within their reach or means of
+acquisition. Fish in these countries do not seem to take hook and bait
+readily, and the poor natives have to resort to all manner of odd
+expedients to secure them. There were many strangers here, and quite 150
+people or more must have partaken. The pork was very nice and most
+beautifully cooked in the native oven. The females presided over the
+cutting up, but Arthur as co-host with myself gave directions as master
+of the feast. He gave a sigh of relief when he came into my house after
+it was all over, and said “there, what a poor return for so much
+labour.” That always strikes me as the most pitiable thing about a
+feast, it is all over in the twinkling of an eye, and what have you for
+your pains?</p>
+
+<p>This evening there is a great dance, a vast crowd of people has already
+congregated, and it is to go on till morning light. It is done as a
+special compliment to myself, and I do not like to stop them. The
+patient endurance of some of the dancers is wonderful. From the start to
+the finish, say from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m., they never leave the ranks of the
+dance but keep at it all the time, singing, clapping the hands and
+dancing. There is no rest for a good supper at midnight, but the dance
+is carried right through to the bitter end. I am going to attempt sleep,
+but I fear the noise will prove too much for me. They have certainly a
+most beautiful night for their dance, but I should be sorry to be one of
+the performers. The songs are certainly very pretty, and they show
+wonderful power of memory to keep up the succession all through the
+night, without a book of words or musical score.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52">{52}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I can imagine too, as the enthusiasm of the dance increases, that there
+must be a sort of fascination about the performance.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, August 13th.</i>&mdash;The dance was kept up till daylight, and I got
+little or no sleep before that. When I did get to sleep, I slept so
+soundly that it was late on in the morning before I awoke, and then I
+was driven to it. Arthur Huqe appeared at my bedside and asked me if he
+should ring the bell for prayers, and I was obliged to consent. The
+whole day afterwards was somewhat of a blank to me, and I went no
+whither and did little till evening. The duties of the day however, were
+carried on as usual.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, August 14th.</i>&mdash;The usual holiday. We had Prayers very early,
+and before breakfast I took a picture of most of the congregation in
+front of the church, which I hope will turn out good. It was not a
+pleasant day indoors, there was a strong wind blowing, and clouds of
+dust penetrating my house from all quarters, and I was not sorry to
+accept Arthur’s offer to go with himself and most of the people to the
+riverside. There it is always cool and pleasant, and the luxury of a
+bathe, although almost a daily occurence, is always appreciated. I took
+my photographic Camera with me, and after almost burying myself in mud,
+succeeded in getting a good view of the pretty taro gardens. On our way
+to Rarava the monotony of the road was relieved by our starting a
+“malau,” the ornithological name of which I know not, but it is a kind
+of bush turkey, it has a red head, yellow legs and black feathers, and
+is really like a common hen in shape and appearance. The poor thing was
+evidently startled from her peculiar nest, where she was about to
+deposit her eggs. These strange birds after securing a favourable spot,
+lay their eggs some depth beneath the upper soil, and leave them there
+uncared for until the young ones hatch themselves, and when strong
+enough burst their earthly tenement, and come forth to the light of day.
+Some say the parent comes occasionally back to her nest to see how
+matters are progressing, and even digs at the earth to find out how the
+process of hatching goes on. If she finds her progeny ready to walk, she
+drives them on before her to a place of security, but the general belief
+is that she allows them to shift for themselves. These curious birds are
+said to feed principally on the large ants here called “gandee.”</p>
+
+<p>In Savo and some of the Solomon Islands, these birds are tamed and
+fenced in, to lay their eggs in the hot sand, but here they are wild and
+rare. Their eggs which are very numerous are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53">{53}</a></span> esteemed a great delicacy.
+This poor bird in question tried very hard to get away by flight, but
+getting entangled in the thick bush, was shot by a cruel arrow. The
+capture was the food for conversation throughout the day, and I listened
+to the relation and re-relation of the narrative of it times without
+number, with all the little details with which natives are wont to
+embellish and amplify their narration of the smallest fact. It is
+perfectly wonderful how the smallest matter affords pasture for native
+conversation, and what a wonderful faculty they have of making multum
+out of parvum. In powers of conversation and flow of language, I think
+natives are far before our European working classes. A native never
+seems at a loss for something to say, and certainly never fails to
+express himself from lack of words.</p>
+
+<p>I have frequently heard an European confess that he had a great deal to
+say, but he could not express himself for want of words. The fluency of
+speech, and powers of conversation are not confined here to the weaker
+sex, and I think the men have quite as long tongues as the women,
+although I do not think they chatter so much or make such a clatter.
+Some of the men are great wits, and make fun for the multitude, but I do
+not think this applies to the women. The Maewo folks are great
+“laughers,” and go off into fits of cacchination at the smallest joke.
+They are a most simple, good-natured race certainly, and it is hard to
+conceive of their being such depraved savages, so gentle are they in
+their ways.</p>
+
+<p>After school with the teachers in the evening, during which we discussed
+our Sunday programme, we had Evensong, and afterwards a long singing
+practice. Miss Mount’s generous gift is a most welcome addition to our
+singing, and Arthur Huqe begins to play the harmonium very nicely at the
+services. Our singing is very fair on the whole, but there is room for
+improvement, and we have the ability if I could get the girls to use
+their very nice voices. In the old familiar hymns and chants they sing
+out lustily, but when we attempt anything new, they shut up altogether,
+without making a trial to join in.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, August 15th.</i>&mdash;There are two very homely sounds which break the
+stillness of the early morning here, and the first is the cock which
+seems to have a peculiar faculty for crowing in these latitudes, he
+starts his chant before commerce is awake and he keeps religiously at it
+all day long. Here at Maewo, too, these birds are in prodigal abundance,
+their flesh is esteemed very delicate food, and is kept for great and
+exalted occasions. Here<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54">{54}</a></span> the male takes precedence of the female even in
+the matter of dumb animals, and sows and hens are looked upon as only
+fit food for women. The crow of the first cock is a signal for a general
+chorus, and then the natives begin to stir. As soon as they appear on
+the threshold of their doors another chorus takes up the morning song,
+and the pigs begin their squealing. Whether it is that one looks for
+more peace on Sunday morning, or whether one perchance is a trifle more
+inclined to take a little more sleep or a little more slumber, whatever
+the actual cause may be, I always notice that on Sundays there is always
+a greater noise from the domestic animals than on ordinary days. The
+pigs here are hand fed, and will not be denied, they squeal to their
+hearts’ content until they have their morning meal, and being in
+considerable numbers the noise is not sleep producing. In old days these
+animals were kept for their heathen feasts, but as of late these have
+fallen into disuse, so the pigs have increased until they have become
+one of the features of the place. At a Baptism or any great Church
+Festival such as Christmas, Easter, Pentecost, one or more male animals
+have to die, and although the possession of a flock is as much valued as
+an Englishman’s stud, no one ever grumbles to kill his animal when his
+turn comes round.</p>
+
+<p>Being very hot this morning, and there being a prospect of the
+repetition of the Egyptian plague of flies, who always add to the
+discomfort of a congregation, we had school very early. Our numbers were
+slightly augmented by outsiders, but not quite to my satisfaction. After
+a hasty breakfast I started for Uta. This is a good long distance from
+here, and I was in a state of dripping perspiration when I arrived
+there. I found everyone keeping a Sabbath, but very few appreciating the
+idea of a Christian Sunday.</p>
+
+<p>However, I had quite a large congregation in the neat little school but
+the ladies preponderated in point of numbers. We had quite a nice hearty
+little service, and they listened patiently to an address from myself. I
+wish from my heart I had a good teacher to place here, for I know he
+would be the means of doing much good work to God’s glory. The present
+teacher is a very good, conscientious fellow, but his own knowledge is
+not much above that of his own countrymen, and they grow weary of
+hearing continually the same thing. I was quite pleased with my visit,
+and amply rewarded for any discomfort I experienced in the journey. I do
+not expect that any immediate result will issue<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55">{55}</a></span> from such spasmodic
+efforts, but there is no knowing the power of grace, and God’s ways are
+not as our ways. Often it is that the last becomes first, and the first
+last. At all events I keep the door open, and I hope before long someone
+else may be raised up to settle among them as a permanent teacher. After
+resting awhile I took my homeward journey, escorted according to custom
+by the denizens of the village beyond their own boundary. I returned by
+way of “Na Ruru,” where “Anthony” one of our Norfolk Island trained boys
+has a school. He seems to be doing fairly well there, and has a nice
+school. After sitting with him for some time, the shades of evening
+began to close in, and I to feel somewhat famished, having had but
+little since morning. Bidding him goodbye I started for Tanrig, where I
+arrived in due course. After dinner I baptized three children, Maida,
+Victoria and Matthew respectively. The Font was very prettily arranged
+and decorated by Arthur Huqe, and the service generally, very nice.
+Later on we had Evensong, quite a refreshing and stirring service, at
+which I preached, and never before do I remember to have secured more
+attention. These children I Baptized this evening make up the number of
+Christians here to 100, under God, the fruits of my own, and my
+teacher’s work, and I feel that by the orderly and consistent lives of
+most of them, I can thank God and take courage.</p>
+
+<p>I took as the basis of my remarks, our Lord’s last command to His
+Disciples, and I urged those who had already been admitted into the
+fellowship of Christ’s religion, to eschew all those things which were
+contrary to their profession, and to follow all such things as were
+agreeable to the same, and those still without the pale to lose no time
+in applying for that rite, the absence of which our Lord declared must
+be condemnation. Those words have a strong sound here for Missionary and
+heathen&mdash;“He that believeth and is Baptized shall be saved, but he that
+believeth not shall be dammed.” One realizes here their full weight, and
+solemnity, and power. Quite three parts of the congregation have dropped
+in to wish me good night, and by the hushed stillness over the place I
+can tell that God’s Word has not fallen to the ground. God grant that it
+may minister grace to hearer and preacher.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, August 16th.</i>&mdash;The night was made perfectly hideous by the
+howling of the fiendish curs which are dignified with the name of dogs,
+the squealing of hungry swine, and the cackling of a poor forlorn goose
+whose kith and kin have left her a solitary representative of her
+species, and who seems to find her only<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56">{56}</a></span> solace in sitting outside my
+door and calling to her lost companions. The dogs are simply a pest to
+the place, they keep up their incessant bark all the day long, and all
+night they howl and prowl around. They are hideously ugly, undersized
+creatures, and are the more loathsome because they are the acknowledged
+scavengers of the place. They are not worthy to be called dogs, and any
+one except he was assured of the fact, would scarcely believe that they
+were dogs. They are supposed to be useful in catching wild pigs, but
+from their appearance you would fancy that it must be a poor specimen of
+a pig they would dare to tackle. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and
+all these sounds rending the still night air simultaneously drove sleep
+from my eyes, and produced such inward irritation and disgust that if a
+thought could have killed the lot, none of them would have troubled the
+world again with their noises. A most glorious morning enticed me up
+very early, and certainly the early dawn was very fresh and beautiful.
+We had Prayers very soon after daylight and even then the blue bottles
+had collected in great numbers and were by no means a help to devotion.
+These pests spring into existence at once as soon as any number of human
+bodies are congregated together, and are particularly active in church
+and school. The idea of them apart from their propensities is very nasty
+and disgusting, and when in a country like this without the concomitants
+of devotion, one wants all the solemnity one can possibly obtain, their
+presence and irritation are the more odious and nauseating.</p>
+
+<p>To-day, according to custom, we kept the Christening Feast of the
+children who were Baptized last night. The parents of the children gave
+a most beautiful pig, and the women attended to the cooking, the men
+dispersing in many directions each in quest of his own business or
+pleasure. I went with a party to Ruosi where we bathed, and got back in
+time for the opening of the ovens, and the division of the feast. I said
+grace and then each one partook of his or her share of the plentiful
+repast, all eating together in the most harmonious fashion, and not as
+in old days the sexes keeping religiously apart. This middle wall of
+separation has been almost entirely broken down, and family life and
+sociability have taken the place of the old seclusion and division. It
+was a most glorious night but the people were too tired to dance, and we
+all retired early to our houses. I kept busy till very late writing up
+arrears of correspondence and reading, and was the last in the village
+out of bed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57">{57}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, August 17th.</i>&mdash;The most glorious day from earliest morning
+till now at night, the evening one of the most beautiful I ever saw,
+when the moon rose it was a most perfect night above and below, the sky
+studded with myriads of stars and absolutely cloudless, here everything
+hushed in peaceful slumber, except the restless, ever-singing crickets,
+whose buzz is continuously kept up by night and day. At the heathen end
+of the village there was a sort of Irish wake kept up to-day, but there
+was no “tangi” or any ceremony except a pig being killed, and a great
+feast being prepared. Formerly, death days were kept with great
+strictness, and the day of death and the 100th were observed with great
+festivities. I have seen nothing of the kind now for years, and I
+fancied the custom had quite died out. It was supposed in old days when
+the people were still heathen, that the disembodied spirit, after it
+left its earthly tenement, hung about hungry and restless on the thick
+creepers in the bush, and on the day of death a great feast was prepared
+for it, after which it retired to the place of departed spirits called
+Banoi. This same Banoi is near Tasmouri, but I have never seen it. The
+idea, I believe, is that when the spirit is at length at rest, its stone
+is placed in a certain cave or pit there exists there, and the people
+who have seen the place, tell me that certainly there far inland are
+smooth seaside stones laid in wonderful regularity, and in old days
+supposed to be put there by successive spirits in order as they died.
+Until quite recently, no one ventured into this ghostly place, and it
+was regarded as eminently sacred. Some day I hope to go there and
+examine it for myself.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot find out the rationale of the subsequent death days, but they
+seem to have more to do with the living than the dead, and are supposed
+to show the departed one that he or she is still kept in faithful and
+affectionate memory.</p>
+
+<p>In old days everyone was careful to have one good pig at least, in
+readiness for the day of his death, and any others which he might
+possess at the time of his departure, his friends were careful to kill
+in his honour.</p>
+
+<p>They carefully kept the days, principally the tens, I think, and
+religiously observed the 100th, after which remembrance seemed no longer
+necessary, but before that, I am afraid, there was a large amount of
+selfishness about the death days, and more was thought of the living in
+them than of the dead. The people tell me how strictly these days were
+kept formerly, they dispensed with their regular ordinary food sometimes
+for the whole 100<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">{58}</a></span> days, and ate only such roots and fruits as grow wild
+in the bush, religiously abstaining from all garden produce until the
+full time had expired. Some went even beyond this when a very particular
+person died, and for the whole 100 days ate only one kind of root, and
+that the most difficult to obtain, strenuously refusing to partake of
+food in common with others. I have known a man myself adhere to this
+rigid, self-imposed abstention, in the case of the death of a son, and
+of a wife, not here however, but at Opa. A man once came into my house
+over there, tired and hungry after a long fast and a laborious journey,
+but he strictly refused a biscuit or other food which I ventured to
+offer him, and when or where he ate I do not know, for the particular
+food he had chosen to eat was most rare in the neighbourhood, I doubt
+even if it was obtainable at all. Yet no privation or distress would
+force him to break his rule, and eat promiscuously until the proper time
+had elapsed. In the keeping of their days they are wonderfully accurate,
+and you seldom find them wrong in their calculations. Their fingers are
+their ready reckoners, and they have to do a great deal more work than
+ours in assisting a weak memory, where the use of slate and pencil are
+unknown. I very often ask people to count over the names of persons in
+the place or neighbourhood, just to see how clever and correct they are
+with their numbers. Here the whole ten fingers are used, at Opa only the
+left hand, five fingers down being five, the first finger up and the
+rest down six, and so on until all are up which makes ten, then two
+tens, three tens, up to ten tens or one hundred. In the distribution of
+food, too, it is wonderful how accurate they are, and it is very rarely
+that any one is left out of the count. Of course, where the science of
+numbers is unknown, nature teaches by a more roundabout, but scarcely
+less accurate process. For all practical purposes and uses, their
+fingers help them a great deal, indeed almost as far as their
+requirements go, for their lives are very simple and their ways
+uncomplicated. The leaves of a certain palm, however, lends them some
+assistance, especially in the distribution of food, and as the person is
+seen, or his name thought of, a leaf is broken off, and then the broken
+leaves are counted. I have never heard of the toes being used as
+assistants, although one might fancy their being of service.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, August 18th.</i>&mdash;About midnight as I lay reading in bed, and a
+perfect stillness reigned around, we experienced a very sharp shock of
+an earthquake. My house shook so uncomfortably, that I really feared it
+was coming down, and I had the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">{59}</a></span> sort of feeling as of some one trying to
+upset it, and I felt as if I must say “Oh! do not, please leave off, you
+will have it down.” My neighbour’s fence was shaken so, that I fancied
+some considerable damage had been done. The vibration lasted a good long
+time, some seconds I should say, after the real shock was over, and I
+felt myself, a sort of palpitation for some considerable period. I was
+not afraid, but no one can feel an earthquake without some instinctive
+dread. Nothing, I think, makes one feel one’s littleness and
+helplessness and insecurity more, and there is such a solemnity attached
+to it, that you are very thankful when it is fairly over. Man, bird and
+beast were roused into action at once, and there was quite an excitement
+here for a time. Curiously enough, in the evening there was a very
+bright and exceedingly beautiful after-glow, and I remarked to the boys
+how like it was to the time when the terrible destruction was caused in
+the gulf of Sunda, and I said casually, that I should not be surprised
+if we had more earthquakes soon. The natives have a firm idea that they
+are the precursors of rain, and certainly this morning we have had a
+very heavy downpour. This is the first rain we have had for the whole
+month I have been here, and the first day I have been kept to solitary
+confinement. Most of the day I have been absolutely alone, and my pen
+has been kept very busy writing letters and hymns and songs. With the
+latter I have been very successful, and have managed four. One,
+particularly successful, goes to the chorus of “Wait till the clouds
+roll by,” and is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Ge togatoga ririkqa.</td><td class="bl">Gana sako na usu maraga,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Mati ni van ran̈ai,</td><td class="bl">Gana toura na gabe tar,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">A lan̈i ni rowo na wia,</td><td class="bl">Gana tura goro na masi</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Tavi dago na tasgoro.</td><td class="bl">Gana koko betegag.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Gana unui vagamatera<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A len̈elen̈e mas<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Gana tuwur, sogon le gete<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Toli tasgoro rik ka sem.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">of which the translation is:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Wait a little bit longer,</td><td class="bl">Then we will take bow and arrow,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Wait till the tide is low,</td><td class="bl">Then we will carry our nets,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">Wait till the wind blow fairer,</td><td class="bl">Then we will stop in the fishes</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td class="pdrt">And then make the tasgoro.</td><td class="bl">And gather them properly up.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">We will kill them dead with poison,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">All and every kind of fish,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">We will gather and lay them in baskets,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">What a glorious tasgoro!<br /></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60">{60}</a></span></div></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The <i>tasgoro</i> I have before described. Part of beach enclosed, tabu’d,
+and after lapse of time opened again to the public.</p>
+
+<p>This evening we have sung this chorus with grand effect, and high as I
+was previously in popular estimation as a poet, I have gone still higher
+now. What a little thing wins popularity, how little is a thing so
+easily purchased worth the having! One other song goes very prettily and
+smoothly to “Home sweet Home,” and is much appreciated. It is, as far as
+I could adapt it, the reproduction of the English song into Maewo.
+“Dream Faces” supplied me with another very pretty little song, which
+runs very well, the theme of which is the “moonlight.” “Our Jack’s come
+home to-night,” lent me the music of a fourth song, which is peculiarly
+native in expression, and slightly more comic than the two above
+mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>The production of this last was received with such peals of laughter,
+that for a time confusion and merriment took the place of composure and
+perfect gravity. It would lose its charm and half its meaning if I were
+to attempt to translate it into English. Here, however, is the Maewo:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td class="pdrt">Ta disava qarik</td><td class="bl">Isei ni tau na as?</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="pdrt">Eh? Ron̈o lolora va!</td><td class="bl">Ki isei qa ni sawu?</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="pdrt">Wa sagoro ta sagoro</td><td class="bl">Ki gida, sem, ta lai ran̈ai!</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="pdrt">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Ron̈o lolora va!</td><td class="bl">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Toli sagoro rik!</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="pdrt">Da! ta sagoro da!</td><td class="bl">Ge riri betigag!</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="pdrt">Ta sagoro tei rik</td><td class="bl">Ga laia ran̈ai sag!</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="pdrt">Kare mawmaw, tei riki vak!</td><td class="bl">Ge wosawosa limamu!</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="pdrt">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; A wula marama!</td><td class="bl">Tolina rik ka sem!</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="nind">The “Dream Faces” song is as follows:-</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Nan ligo asik suri marama,</td><td align="left">&mdash;I’ll make my song about the moonlight,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Tolina rik sem a wula marama,</td><td align="left">&mdash;Charming indeed is the light of the moon,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Osoos ti rasu mera na maran,</td><td align="left">&mdash;Darkness has flown, it is light as the day,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Non eteete ti lita soun na qon̈.</td><td align="left">&mdash;His brightness chased the night far away.</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Nan ligo asik suri marama,</td><td align="left">&mdash;I’ll make my song about the moonlight,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">An̈eisa tea le isi Tamada,</td><td align="left">&mdash;Some day I ween in our great Father’s land,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Ala na maran vagatewa tau,</td><td align="left">&mdash;There day unending for ever will be,</td></tr>
+<tr valign="top"><td align="left">Qon tigai ala, moa marama,</td><td align="left">&mdash;Night is unknown there, light only endless.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The light called “marama,” is looked upon by natives as the perfection
+of light, because it is, I suppose, unaccompanied by the burning heat of
+the sun. I therefore use it as illustrating better the idea of heaven’s
+light. Maran is the light of day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61">{61}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, August 19th.</i>&mdash;The village was hushed in the stillness of
+slumber again about midnight, and I was preparing for bed, too, and
+kneeling down to say my prayers, when another quite sharp earthquake
+shock was felt, and the sensation came upon me very solemnly and
+impressively while so engaged. I cannot say why I trembled, but I did,
+and it was quite instinctive. However, I went to bed and slept
+profoundly. We have had another slight shock of domestic earthquake here
+this morning, and Ann, one of our young married women, after rating her
+husband, started off for Naruru, and we were quite in a ferment here for
+a short time. However, this evening, her parents went for her, and I
+have had to give her a scolding. I told her that anger was like a charge
+of dynamite, it not only exploded itself, but it produced destructive
+effects far and wide, indeed there was no knowing what the extent of its
+mischief might be. She seemed penitent, and was utterly ashamed of her
+unchristian conduct. I am thankful to say that scenes of domestic
+warfare are uncommon here, and, generally speaking, a great deal of
+harmony prevails, but of course there are clouds in the most perfect
+day, and the smoothest ocean is at times ruffled by the sudden breeze.
+Beyond this, our day has been like most other days, except for the
+thatching of Peter’s “gamal,” which has brought together a large
+concourse of people, and has been the occasion of a great festivity this
+evening. Arthur, Patrick and myself walked down to Ruosi in the
+afternoon, where we bathed, and returned in the evening. Our evening
+duties as usual.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, August 20th.</i>&mdash;Certainly we are blessed with the most glorious
+weather. This morning was simply perfect, and one almost wishes one
+could keep some of its coolness for the middle of the day, when the heat
+is very great.</p>
+
+<p>After school and breakfast this morning, some of the people invited me
+to go with them eel catching. As the performance was new to me, I gladly
+assented. The scene of the sport lay in the direction of the water fall,
+and I took my camera, hoping to get a good view of it.</p>
+
+<p>We followed the course of the stream, and waded through the taro
+gardens, and finally found ourselves in the most advantageous position
+for a photograph. It ought to be good, after all my efforts to secure
+the picture, but I could not get far enough away. While I have been
+writing this, since I began the last sentence, an earthquake shock has
+shaken the place very perceptibly, and, why I know not, has left a
+tremour all over me, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62">{62}</a></span> I cannot explain. The picture being shot
+off, I hastened back to where the eel catching was going on. The water
+was cleverly dammed off above two large pools, and then one pool
+“teemed” out with buckets. In the first pool nothing was discovered, and
+the next proceeding was to empty the full pool into the now empty one.
+This took some time, but it was finally accomplished, and one large eel
+was captured, the sole occupant of the pool, and the only sport afforded
+after a long day’s work. Disappointment was depicted on all
+countenances, and I was rather disgusted too, having expected to see
+some sport. I comforted myself with a most glorious bathe in the broad
+flowing river, and hastened home to drown my disappointment in a cup of
+tea.</p>
+
+<p>After school this evening, I was sitting here alone, when four men came
+in, in whispers, and shut the door behind them, and when they had sat
+down, they said, still in the lowest accents, “we wish to see your
+Eucharistic vessels.” I proceeded to exhibit them, and they seemed quite
+awe struck. Miss Patteson would have been pleased to have seen how her
+noble gift was valued and appreciated. The exhibition of the beautiful
+vessels gave me much food for conversation with these men, and I told
+them I hoped the day was not far distant when they would be regularly
+used in the Church here, and they themselves be partakers from them of
+the Blessed Tokens of Redeeming Love, the bread of the world in mercy
+broken, the wine of the soul in mercy shed.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, August 21st.</i>&mdash;General holiday as usual. Nothing of
+particular importance marked the day, except the visit of three nice
+fellows from Uta. The British Workman’s Almanac adorns my walls, and
+they were particularly struck with the picture of Lord Shaftesbury which
+occupies the centre. Curiously, many others have admired this same
+picture, why I do not know, except perhaps from its size. I told these
+visitors all about the late Earl, of his philantrophy and the goodness
+of his life, and I told them too, of the philantrophy and goodness of a
+greater than he, “who went about doing, and healing all manner of
+diseases and sicknesses among the people.” They asked me if I had heard
+the earthquake of late, to which I responded in the affirmative, and
+told them of the terrible outburst of volcanic power at Tarawera, and
+the fearful and alarming results, and I said there was no knowing but it
+might be our turn next, and we ought to try and be prepared for whatever
+lay before us. I urged them to fly, while they had the opportunity, to
+the Higher<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">{63}</a></span> Rock, for there we should find shelter and protection until
+the tyranny were overpast, and any such visitation would be but to bring
+us the quicker to a haven of rest and safety, whither such things never
+come. They asked me if I could not spare some regular teacher to come
+and live with them, to teach them the wonderful things of God’s law, and
+expound more fully to them, the things concerning the Kingdom of God. I
+promised them a weekly service, but I could do no more just yet.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, August 22nd.</i>&mdash;A most glorious Sabbath morning. We had school
+before breakfast, both because it was cooler and also on account of the
+blue bottle flies, which become very troublesome in the heat of the day,
+where people are congregated together. Before our school duties were
+over, they became very numerous, and I was not sorry to get back to the
+refuge and quiet of my own house. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer,
+a very nice service, but not rendered more solemn by the presence, in
+crowds, of those disgusting pests, the flies. However, they are an
+inevitable worry, from which there seems no chance of escape. After
+Prayers I went to the Unduna villages, and talked to the few people I
+found there. They were keeping Sunday, they said, i.e. they were doing
+no work and were generally idling. I asked why they did not come to
+Church as formerly, and they said it was too far. I asked why then did
+not they build a school there, and I would be responsible for the
+teaching in it. They so far assented as to say that they would see about
+it, when they had got through with their yam planting. There is a nice
+little population there, and I have always had it on my conscience that
+nothing practical or definite had been done for them. Natives do not
+care to go to the trouble of a few yards more or less for religion, so I
+suppose the alternative is that religion must go to them. One very nice
+man called “Vangoro,” was most energetic about the building, in
+promising to get it done and helping all he could, he is a leading man
+there too, and I hope my desire will be accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>It was very hot coming back, and I was in a liquid state when I got
+home. The evening was deliriously cool and fine, and I enjoyed it
+outside my house with several of the people.</p>
+
+<p>Evensong was a very nice quiet service, and I preached on the subject of
+the Collect (9th Sunday after Trinity), the “spirit to think and do
+always such things as were rightful.” I hope I got intelligent
+attention. We had some nice singing afterwards, and the people went very
+quietly home.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64">{64}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday.</i>&mdash;Blank days.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday there were great festivities here, and a dance till morning. I
+began to feel ill in the evening, and spent a most wretched night. On
+Tuesday I was unwell all day, and could do nothing. On Wednesday I was
+fearfully ill all day with a severe attack of fever and ague, and lay
+down under all the wraps I could secure, until the hot fit came on with
+a very severe headache. In the evening the boys surprised me by saying
+there was a white man outside, and I was glad to welcome Mr. Blackburne,
+Government agent of the Sybil, from Queensland. The vessel anchored at
+the watering place, and the boys told him “Missionary he plenty sick.”
+He therefore very kindly came up and spent the night with me. He has
+just left me now, and I have not strength to go with him to the ship.
+However, I am better to-day, and hope after a big dose of Quinine he has
+given me, that I shall be better.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, August 31st.</i>&mdash;I have wasted a whole week, and only to-day
+feel equal to doing anything or going anywhere. To-day for the first
+time for a week, I have moved out of the village boundaries, and have
+been to the river with the boys and bathed.</p>
+
+<p>It has been a sickly time here all together, and many besides myself
+have been laid by. It is bearably pleasant to be pent up day by day
+within doors when feeling well, but almost unbearably so when one feels
+ill and out of sorts. However, I trust it is all over now, please God,
+and I must endeavour to make up for lost time. Several of the people,
+Arthur included, have been quite ill through eating a certain eel,
+caught somewhere in the sea and very poisonous. They all detected the
+burning, stinging sensation on their lips, tongue and palate as soon as
+they had eaten it, but fancied it was the taro. From that time till the
+end of the week, they have been all laid up, and one or two have been
+very bad indeed. They have experienced not only burning, sharp pains
+internally, and pricking, poignant stabbing pains in the palms of the
+hands and soles of the feet, but have suffered a great deal also from
+strong and utter prostration with an abhorrent distaste for food.
+Several others were warned betimes from partaking, or the poisoning
+might have been more general. This particular eel was caught by a
+heathen on a Sunday, and therefore its peculiarly deleterious and
+poisonous qualities have been traced by the more virtuous to that fact,
+of which no cognizance was taken before it was cooked and eaten, nor
+would have been afterwards, but for its effects. The really admitted
+fact, however, I believe, is that certain fish caught at certain parts
+of the beach at particular<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65">{65}</a></span> seasons of the year, have all a more or less
+poisonous effect on those who eat them. The people themselves say it is
+the feed they find there which makes them poisonous, but it may be
+inherent in the nature of the particular fish. I remember on many
+occasions on board the <i>Southern Cross</i>, the natives looking askance at
+some very tempting looking fish which had been caught, and pronouncing
+them dangerous to eat. On one very memorable occasion, when dinner was
+over, one of the senior boys being cook, and one of the most poisonous
+of fish having been served and partaken of by all, this youth without a
+change of feature saying to some remark that was passed, “Oh! Yes, we
+die in our country if we eat that fish.” This was reassuring after what
+had passed, and we eyed one another with wistful and anxious faces,
+thinking whether or not perchance our end may have been hastened by our
+wilful inadvertence in thus partaking of deadly poison. But we neither
+swelled, nor fell down dead, and felt no ill effects. Many a time, too,
+since, I have eaten the same fish with the like happy and successful
+result. This particular kind of eel, however, has played the same <i>post
+mortem</i> tricks before, and taken his revenge for wrongs received before
+going into the oven. The people tell me that those who have eaten, have
+become like mummies, their hair and skin have changed to a ghastly
+leaden hue, and have fallen off like a snake’s skin. How far this is
+true or fable, I know not, but it may be partially credible. Nothing of
+the sort has happened fortunately, at this present crisis, and the
+sufferers are about again.</p>
+
+<p>A dull, dark evening ushered in a blustery, rough night, and the coughs
+and sneezings and other demonstrative sounds peculiar to people who do
+not carry pocket handkerchiefs, bore testimony to the fact of an
+epidemic catarrh, contracted during a very inclement week. Like the
+Norfolk Islanders, they look for the source of such things in the world
+without, and accuse my friend Mr. Blackburne of having brought it here,
+all the way from Queensland. In what part of his luggage he secreted so
+desirable a communication I know not, but they are decidedly of opinion
+that he it was who ‘gave them’ the cold, and they were unwise enough to
+‘catch it’ from him. He ‘had’ the cold, they said, when he came here,
+and certainly said I, I believe he took it away again. However, as colds
+are catching, I suppose they must be left content with their belief, and
+to ‘bless him,’ I hope, every time they sneeze.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">{66}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 1st.</i>&mdash;Another full month past and gone, and
+leaving I fear, but a poor memory of much good done behind it. The days
+here certainly fly past one after another in rapid flight, and the very
+monotony of existence speeds their departure. One day is so like another
+that it passes unmarkedly by, and one finds oneself, all at once, at the
+end of the week, and is brought to final consciousness of the rapid
+rotation of time’s wheels at the end of the month. What has been done in
+the month? I fear there is but a poor record. God grant that I myself
+may have, by His Grace, made one step forward, and have been
+instrumental in leading others also onward to a higher and better life,
+and to that final epoch where the flight of time is unmarked by days and
+weeks and months and years, for time itself will be swallowed up in
+eternity.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing much happened to-day. A bright morning seemed likely to usher in
+a fine and brilliant day, but in the forenoon the rain pelted down, and
+for some hours we had a glorious downpour. The “blue bottles” gave
+indication of this at Prayers and morning school, and I have never known
+them in such numbers or so troublesome. One perfectly loathed oneself,
+but escape from them was impossible, they crowded my house, which is
+generally free from their incursions, and the poor people seemed quite
+distracted. This is the great yam planting season, and everyone was away
+after school busy at his garden. The heavy rain, however, drove them
+home, and some took refuge here with me. Natives are not great hands for
+introducing originality into their conversation, nor do they go much
+beyond the sight of their eyes, or the hearing of their ears for their
+subject matter. Any prominent object which attracts their attention is
+made the subject of remark. This is a specimen of the sort of
+conversation which goes on. I was writing when my friends came in, “Oh!
+you are writing!” “Yes, what else did you suppose I should be doing with
+pen, ink and paper?” “Oh! this is a curious tin, what is in it? Meat?”
+“You are the 101st person who has asked that self-same question, I
+answered the 100 before you with the monosyllabic negative, No, and I
+give you the same answer.” “What then is in it? Fish?” “No.” “Fruit?”
+“Yes, I hope you are satisfied.” “Oh! I see you have a “kove” (native
+flute) up there in the thatch, who gave it you?” “You yourself have
+asked that same question ten times before, and I have always given the
+same answer, ‘Arthur,’ next time perhaps you will know without asking.”
+“You have a bow and arrow there, where did you get them?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67">{67}</a></span>” “Considering
+that every person in the village knows from whence they came, and has
+made them the subject of general conversation for weeks, I wonder you
+should be the only person ignorant of their origin, especially as you
+were here when I brought them from Tasmouri.” This is the style of thing
+which goes on, and except that one is glad to accede to any means for
+introducing conversation, one would soon weary of it. They themselves do
+not seem to mind going over and over again the same conversation, and
+wading through the same minutiæ of detail, and they expect one to be
+equally patient. The rain gave me a good opportunity of planting my new
+fence, and I planted, as a start, a number of oranges around my house.
+The evening was fine, and the moon already quite sizeable. We had the
+usual singing school after Prayers, with very good success. When the
+practice was over, I asked the older men to sing some of their own
+songs, and they readily complied. Old blind Daniel is the great leader,
+and knows all the songs. There are three parts to the native song, (1)
+the person who starts and sings the air as in a Gregorian tone, and then
+follows (2) a chorus, then (3) a single voice takes up the air again,
+and this is followed by the chorus. The first singer is said to “tau”
+the song, the second to “sawu,” and the chorus to “lai.” The songs are
+very pretty, and they kept them up with spirit for quite an hour. Some
+of the singers beat a weird kind of accompaniment with bamboos, and kept
+most excellent time. When the performance was over, it was time to
+retire, and soon quietness warned me that it was time for me, too, to be
+going to rest.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 2nd.</i>&mdash;How the days seem to chase one another in
+ever too hasty flight! It seems no sooner morning than the night is here
+again. We tried the experiment to-day of having prayers even earlier
+than usual, to be rid of the noxious blue bottles, but only partially
+succeeded in anything like freedom from them. At the school subsequently
+they were more troublesome, I think, than ever, and it was not an easy
+matter to keep one’s own or one’s pupils’ attention, with these hideous
+creatures buzzing about. After Prayers and school one is fairly ready
+for breakfast, and by the time that is over the day has already worn on
+towards Noon.</p>
+
+<p>It is the commencement of planting time now, and the people are very
+busy day after day in their yam gardens preparing the soil. It is by no
+means easy work, and they certainly make a very good show by the end of
+the day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68">{68}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I always like to get out somewhere if I can every day, for I find my
+health is better for the constant out-door exercise. This morning the
+people were all going shrimping, and I accepted an invitation to go with
+them to a place called ‘Niewotu.’ I had never been there before, and I
+was charmed with the picturesque beauty of it. A clear, flowing river is
+utilized for the purpose of irrigation, and there one saw again the
+quaint little taro beds so deftly laid out, and the showy crotons and
+dracænas ornamenting the immediate view, while all round the bush was
+thickly matted with innumerable, and almost impenetrable creepers with
+masses of white and pink flowers. In the direct foreground one got a
+peep of the bright blue sea sparkling in the midday heat. A bathe, and
+green cocoanuts were very agreeable and most refreshing. The boon of
+abundance of water in these hot countries is inestimable, and this
+island is rich in its water supply. Araga again on the other hand is
+very badly off, and Opa not much better.</p>
+
+<p>Evening duties as usual, and some hymn singing afterwards.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, September 4th.</i>&mdash;After Prayers and breakfast, the boys and I
+started for a long meditated journey up the coast. It was a most
+glorious day, but very hot, the sun scorching down with pitiless heat.
+We embarked at Kerepei, sixteen of us all told, and rowed away against
+the Trade wind which was blowing strong down the coast. We were a merry
+party, and the shore view was very beautiful as we coasted along. From
+the point of embarkation to Tanrowo, a distance of eight or ten miles,
+there is not a single “salt water” native, and it seems a great pity to
+see so much valuable land lying fallow, when it might be utilised for
+almost any purpose. As we rounded the Point between us and Tanrowo,
+called “Vaturowa,” we saw a vessel at anchor in the distance. The heat
+on the water was intense, and I felt myself being scorched about the
+face and hands. The natives, hatless and clotheless, did not seem to
+mind it, and their exuberant spirits were proof against almost any outer
+evil. We saw some people along the coast, and conversed with them at
+several places. Arriving at “Beitarara,” we saw a number of people we
+knew. We of course asked about the “schooner” at anchor, and they said
+they did not know what she was, as she had only just a short time before
+come to her anchorage. However, the boat painted red was coming towards
+us, and soon we were within speaking distance. I asked where she was
+from, and what was her errand. As they came close to us, I heard my name
+called,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">{69}</a></span> and found myself shaking hands with Captain Martin of the
+schooner “Idaho” from Noumea. I met him years ago when he was in charge
+of the “John S. Lane,” Captain McCleod owner, and he very kindly then
+towed me across from Opa to Pentecost Island. He seemed very glad to see
+me, and invited me on board. He now belongs to the “Nouvelles Hebrides”
+Company, and was recruiting labour for “Port Sandwich” in Mallicollo.
+The Company had bought land here at “Beitarara,” and he just dropped in
+to see the people. He was very kind and amiable, and I spent some time
+on board, and made some purchases.</p>
+
+<p>The boat then started for our destination, where we found many amiable,
+friendly people awaiting us, and although they had sold their land, they
+had very hazy notions as to how much had been purchased, or what was to
+be done with it. After spending some time with them, we gave them some
+presents, and then found it was time to be getting homeward. A strong
+favourable breeze took us rapidly to the Kerepei. Arriving at “Ruosi,”
+we found a large number of our people awaiting us, with a smoking hot
+supper they had cooked for us there. We arrived here tired and sunburnt
+just before dark. Evensong followed, and a singing practice for Sunday.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, September 5th.</i>&mdash;School very early on account of the blue
+bottles. I took all the old men into the Church and talked to them
+there. They paid good attention, and I hope remembered something of what
+they were taught. I tried to explain how God declared His Almighty Power
+most chiefly in showing mercy and pity. There were times when He
+revealed Himself as a consuming fire, but that was in His attitude
+towards sin, but the whole being and essence of God was love. After
+breakfast I started with Patrick for “Mandurvat” by way of “Naruru.”
+Anthony had already had Morning Prayer, so I did not stay long there,
+but pushed on for my destination. It was very hot walking, and I was
+very liquid when I arrived at Mandurvat. Sunday travelling here is much
+more tiring than week-day work, for you are obliged to respect the day a
+little, as regards the clothing you wear. I had not a very large
+congregation, and when service was over I asked the reason. The people
+then told me that a certain man called “Ala” had “tabu’d” (<i>i.e.</i> made
+sacred) the school, and prevented the people of his village from
+attending service. I protested against this, and when I had said my say,
+the plucky young teacher “Tarione” at once went to the village, and
+broke the “tabu,” rendering himself liable to a fine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70">{70}</a></span> of pigs or perhaps
+a knock on the head. “Ala” was not at home or I would have gone to see
+him. However, I believe Tarione did all I could do, and perhaps more. I
+was very much pleased with the way some of the scholars had been taught,
+and two females especially, took me quite by surprise. These people have
+no baptized teacher, and the efficiency of the school is entirely owing
+to the exertion and perseverance of two young men, Tarione
+aforementioned and “Livotari.” The latter requested Baptism for himself,
+wife and child, and Tarione has previously expressed the same wish. Now
+that the tabu is taken off, or at least broken, no doubt the scholars
+will increase, but it reflects great credit on these young fellows that
+they have built the school themselves, taught themselves to read, and do
+their best to teach their people. They are a most friendly, good-natured
+people, and act up to their limited light and knowledge. They have
+prayers and school every day, and this is very wonderful, when one
+considers the few advantages they have had. “Masa,” the leading man of
+the district, was present at the service, and was very enthusiastic in
+the after conversation. They gave us a sumptuous luncheon of various
+kinds of “loko,” and we started for Tanrig when the sun’s rays began
+somewhat to decline. At “Naruru” we stopped some time, and I addressed
+the people. Anthony afterwards came on with me to Tanrig. Here, in the
+evening, I preached on the subject of the Gospel, the Pharisee and the
+Publican, and tried to adduce some healthful lessons from the parable.
+We were somewhat inclined by nature to think more highly of ourselves
+than we ought to think, and not to be sober and humble in our self
+consideration. Because we attended service regularly, and were very
+accurate in our daily lives, we were apt to despise others around us,
+who were not so exact, and were still living heathen lives. When we came
+before God, our thought ought not to be of our own worthiness or
+goodness in His sight, still less of the depravity and wickedness of
+others, but our attitude and our language should be that of our own
+utter unworthiness and sinfulness, we should imitate the action and
+adopt the words of the Publican rather than that of the Pharisee, and
+smite our breasts and say, “God be merciful to me a sinner.” What we
+sought from all our services was to go down to our houses justified, and
+the only road to justification and righteousness was humility. That was
+the only road for white and black people alike, for teacher and taught,
+for Priest and people. How many of us would be justified that night? How
+many of us were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">{71}</a></span> growing day by day in grace, and in the knowledge of
+our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ?</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, September 6th.</i>&mdash;Captain Martin had kindly offered to tow me
+and my boat’s crew across to Opa if I could manage to be ready. He would
+come down and anchor at Kerepei, and fire a gun as a signal for me. The
+gun went, but I was not ready, and after breakfast I went down to tell
+him so. Being a French ship they kept French hours, and I found a second
+breakfast awaiting me on board. Twelve people had recruited at Tanrowo,
+and all had been bought with snider rifles, and plenty of ammunition.
+French and English recruiting laws are very different. Vessels from
+Queensland and Fiji are not allowed to give guns or ammunition to the
+natives, but the French do just as they like. While I was on board,
+another silly female was recruited. In one of her humours she had run
+away from her husband, and had come a distance of twelve or fifteen
+miles, to be engaged for three years as the slave and tool of some
+depraved Frenchman on one of the island stations. I could say nothing,
+although I knew the result of the embarkation. However, the Captain
+promised me that he would call again at the place, and see the woman’s
+friends, and if they consented to her going, he would keep her and pay
+for her, but if not, she should be put on shore again. How far or how
+truly he will carry out his promise I do not know, but he is a tender
+hearted and, I think, an upright man in his dealings with the natives.
+As soon as I was ashore, he lifted his anchor and went up the coast, but
+I have not yet heard what he did. He was very kind to our boys, and gave
+them several tins of meat and biscuits. We made a fire at Ruosi, and
+there they cooked their dinner, while after a bathe I came home. In the
+evening it rained very hard, and just before the bell went for Prayers,
+our congregation was therefore not so large as usual, and our numbers
+thinner at school. I was very tired, and went early to bed.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 7th.</i>&mdash;Very heavy rain during the night succeeded
+this morning by a northerly wind, and a hot, close, oppressive day. I
+have not felt it so warm since I have been here, and I was glad that my
+duties kept me at home, and mostly in doors all the day. Nothing here
+seems possible to be done without a feast and a dance, and all work was
+postponed to-day to do my new fence the honour of having a supper
+prepared for it. Any excuse for eating and dancing. The women were kept
+busy at the ovens cooking, and the men away at the seaside endeavouring
+to get a meal of fish, seemingly the choicest compli<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">{72}</a></span>ment possible to be
+paid to the exterior decoration of my house. The fence making certainly
+was a most laborious business, and the result, if not strikingly
+beautiful, has the advantage of being strong and durable, and hitherto
+pig-proof.</p>
+
+<p>The men returned in the afternoon with about thirty nice fish, which
+were at once consigned to the oven, and in the evening the feast was
+spread here in front of my house, and the whole village assembled to
+partake. Grace was said, and the huge quantities of food distributed,
+and eaten with very evident relish. Postprandial grace having been said,
+the company dispersed, and soon all the festal remnants, too,
+disappeared. The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever seen,
+and I sat outside my house for a long time talking with the people. Many
+were prevented attending by reason of sickness, and our numbers at
+Prayers and school were not so full as usual. After school a dance was
+proposed, but did not come off. Instead thereof, a few of the men came
+and serenaded me, very quietly and softly, and much more in consonance
+with my feelings than the noisy songs and clappings of the dance. It was
+one of those nights in which it was a “shame to go to bed,” but tired
+nature seeks repose, and soon the village was sunk in silent slumber.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 8th.</i>&mdash;Another most glorious morning followed by a
+very hot and ennervating day. After our morning duties here, public and
+private, I went with some of the boys to Ruosi. It was very pleasant
+there by the water side, and one got a perfect freedom from the blue
+bottles, which invaded my house in such numbers, this morning, that I
+had to retire. The discomfort of these loathsome creatures is excessive,
+and one gets away from them as far as possible. Not having had a washing
+day for some days, I made one to-day, and myself turned washerwoman. The
+one idea of natives with respect to clothes washing, is to pile on the
+soap agony, and leave your garments as stiff as a board, and almost as
+uncomfortable to wear. I entrusted a pair of white flannel trowsers, and
+a white flannel coat to one of the boys to wash, but I tremble to think
+what the result will be. On our way homeward we were stopped by loud
+“cooes” from the rear rank, and Patrick came running forward to say
+“They are here.” Soon a white hat appeared, and I fancied at once it
+must be the “Southern Cross,” but wondered why she had come so quickly.</p>
+
+<p>However, I was soon undeceived, and was greeted by Mr. Coates,
+Government Agent of the “Lord of the Isles” from Fiji.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">{73}</a></span> He was
+photographing the Falls, and the boys brought him on here. He was very
+amiable, and followed me on to the village. He took three views of
+different parts of the place, and after staying a short time returned
+again to the ship as night was rapidly approaching. It is so seldom that
+a white man ventures up here, that the sight of one is a seven days’
+wonder. He came quite unarmed, and was evidently not frightened by the
+ferocity of our people. It is customary to look upon natives as
+naturally wild and ferocious, and few white men trust themselves among
+them without arms. However, of course we always go armed with a Power
+more protective than a Colt’s revolver, and we, I suppose, engender
+trust in the natives by trusting them.</p>
+
+<p>The “Lord of the Isles” is a large ship of 300 tons, and has brought
+over two hundred natives from Fiji as returned labour.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Coates told me that the Conservative Government was in power with
+Lord R. Churchill as Premier, and that the English Government had sent
+an ultimatum to the French to withdraw their troops from the New
+Hebrides, or their action in sending them there would be looked upon as
+a breach of faith and an act of aggression. There will be troubles down
+here yet I fear, with all the shilly-shallying there is over the
+annexation of these islands. The French are evidently intending some
+forward step, for they have troops both in Havannah Harbour, and Port
+Sandwich (Mallicollo), and the Nouvelles-Hebrides Company are buying
+land right and left all over these islands. It would not be pleasant to
+find myself a prisoner in France instead of a free man in England, and I
+hope there may be no fear of such a criterion.</p>
+
+<p>Our evening duties as usual ended with singing.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 9th.</i>&mdash;Another most glorious morning, and a bright
+warm day. My home duties kept me here till far on in the day, when I
+joined a large picnic party at Ruosi. Certainly these natives take life
+easily, and in their own way get a good deal of enjoyment out of it.
+They seem utterly devoid of that care and worry which kills so many of
+us, and certainly follow the Scripture injunction as to taking no
+anxious thought. Nature affords them all they want for their bodily
+comfort, and I trust religion supplies the rest. It is perfectly
+wonderful how far more merry and light hearted they are than their
+heathen neighbours, and I fondly hope the secret is within, such jolly,
+amiable, good-natured creatures they are, and so happy and friendly and
+harmonious among themselves. The sportsmen to the number of twelve or
+fifteen went off in search of wild fowl,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">{74}</a></span> or any other of the feathered
+tribe they might come across, the cooks setting to work to get the oven
+alight and start the cooking. Prawns were caught in abundance, and were
+eaten with roasted taro, as a sort of lunch, and green cocoanuts were
+secured as the refreshing beverage. It was an animated and picturesque
+scene, and in the evening the sportsmen returned with five fowls and one
+owl, an odd looking object, as the result of their day’s sport. These
+birds were soon consigned to the oven with the other food, and were
+partaken of in the evening. I came away beforehand and had my dinner
+here. It was a most gloriously still and beautiful evening and the
+native songs sung by the boys coming home, sounded very pretty in the
+distance. There seems to have been an exuberant joyous spirit about
+to-day, animating everyone, and never since I have been here, have I
+known so hearty and bright a service as we had this evening.</p>
+
+<p>After school most of the boys and younger men went to “Unduna,” a
+<i>suburb</i> of Tanrig, to a great dance, which is to be kept up till
+morning light. The occasion of it is the ‘nasu’ing of two gamals
+to-morrow, and nothing can be done without a dance. Arthur, who has
+neither the strength nor the inclination to go, has been keeping me
+company, and we have had some nice and profitable conversation. He has
+left me now, and in the stillness of the most glorious night, the song
+of the dancers breaks upon one’s ear, and makes one conscious that one
+is in the Melanesian Islands. Besides that one sound, nothing else is
+audible, and I myself am going to prepare for the quiet and rest of my
+humble couch.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, September 11th.</i>&mdash;Started this morning after breakfast for
+Tasmate by boat, and saw a vessel heading in for the watering place.
+This was the <i>Southern Cross</i> from the islands, and before long she came
+to anchor and we were on board shaking hands. We were somewhat surprised
+to see the Bishop, but he was not well and was going for the change to
+Norfolk Island. None of the party on board looked very well, but they
+were going South and would soon feel the benefit of the colder weather.
+Mr. Turnbull came back with me and spent the night here. After service I
+held a consultation with the teachers as to Arthur’s going to Norfolk
+Island, and they were unanimous that he ought to go. A. P. Huqe offered
+to stay in his place. The vessel was much earlier than I expected her,
+but none too early. The news generally, very good.</p>
+
+<p>There were five earthquake shocks to-day, one of which was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75">{75}</a></span> very severe,
+felt equally on shore and at sea. The Captain fancied the ship was on a
+rock.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, September 13th.</i>&mdash;Yesterday I spent at Tanrig. Mr. Turnbull
+slept the night with me, and spent the whole of Sunday. We had school in
+the early morning and after that, breakfast. Then followed Morning
+Prayer with a very large congregation. In the afternoon Mr. Comins, Mr.
+Plant, Mr. Brittain, the Captain, Engineer, and a large number of
+Melanesians came up to see the village and stayed to our social meal in
+the evening. They were all quite charmed with the people and the place,
+and enjoyed very much the pleasant walk. Mr. Turnbull took his
+departure, and Mr. Brittain spent the night with me. The party, with the
+exception of Mr. Comins, were not successful on the return journey and
+missing the track got into the taro gardens, and floundered about in the
+mud in the most helpless confusion. Not finding a way out of their
+difficulty they tried back, and hit happily upon the right track. This
+little episode threw somewhat of a damper upon the visit, and the party
+returned rather wet and crestfallen to the ship. Mr. Comins was accused
+of being the cause of the misfortune, and I believe those who fared
+worse than he heaped their approbrium on him when they got on board. The
+Bishop was not well, and we were all disappointed not to see him at our
+head quarters. Naturally, a visit from our Bishop is looked upon as a
+red letter day by our people, and if he cannot come the disappointment
+is very apparent. Mr. Brittain and I dined together and spent a most
+pleasant evening. It was a most glorious evening, and the calm peace of
+a cloudless sunset gave place to the most brilliant moonlight. We sat
+outside the house talking to the people until Prayer time. The service
+was a very impressive one, for I got Arthur to say a few words to his
+people before leaving them, and the thought of going away raised a great
+lump in his throat, and for some moments, although generally so ready
+and so eloquent, he could not say a word. Several times there was a
+tremble in his voice and he was nigh to breaking down, and his own
+undisguisable emotion produced a visible effect on his congregation. He
+said in the course of his remarks, that to-day they had seen a great
+concourse of people at their village, of many colours and nationalities.
+But though divided by race, differing in speech, and separated in
+locality, they were all one people with them, because through Christ
+they were all united in one, owning one God and Father of all, believing
+one Common Saviour, knit together by one Spirit, and professing one
+religion.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">{76}</a></span> Though so many and so various we were all one in Christ. And
+then he went on to speak of himself and them, still carrying on the same
+idea, and he said that although divided in bodily presence, unseen by
+the bodily eye, and separated by the wide ocean, they were still one in
+spirit and in heart. Oceans could not separate those whom God had joined
+together, and whether near or far they were still all one in Christ. And
+then almost overcome, he said it might be God’s will that they should
+never again see each others’ faces, but they must look forward to the
+great meeting time beyond the grave, where parting would again be
+unknown, and those whom Christ had joined together, and made one in
+Himself should be one for ever with Him and behold His glory. Because
+they were going to be separated it was no reason that they should forget
+each other, but day by day they should remember each other at the Throne
+of Grace, until such time as they should be reunited in this world, or
+if not, in the world to come. I followed with a few remarks, and a very
+impressive service concluded with the Blessing. After the service I
+called the teachers together to make final arrangements for our
+departure to-morrow, and Patrick was quite content to take charge of the
+school. I am very glad that he should, and I quite feel that the extra
+responsibility will be good for him.</p>
+
+<p>Arthur Huqe will go with me to Opa for the change, and return again with
+me when the ship comes back from Norfolk Island. Two Maewo lads have
+expressed a wish to go with us to Opa, and I am very glad of any
+exchange of friendship between the two islands. It will do them good to
+see other places, and enlarge their minds and ideas to see other people
+beside themselves. Moreover, being with Arthur, a native of Opa, they
+will not feel so lonely as if going by themselves. They are two nice
+boys, and I hope they will profit by the little outing.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Brittain’s enthusiasm was quite cheering, and we were very late in
+getting to bed, being so busy talking over our mutual work, inasmuch as
+our district is one, and he knows the people here so well.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we were astir very early, and after Prayers and breakfast
+were very busy getting ready for our departure. Many hands made light
+work, and soon our impedimenta were shouldered by willing bearers, and
+we were on our way for the Kerepei. We had a most pleasant walk down,
+Mr. Brittain most cheery and appreciative all the way, and we were all
+on board very soon after the stipulated time, 10 o’clock. We had a
+light<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77">{77}</a></span> wind to start with, but it soon fell calm, and the engineer’s
+services were called into requisition. It is very hot work steaming in
+these latitudes, and the cabin especially gets very stuffy. We anchored
+at Opa between five and six o’clock, and I got my things ready for the
+start ashore in daylight. Mr. Brittain and Mr. Turnbull came with me,
+and we visited the French Trader ashore, who was said to have the latest
+telegrams. We were quite astonished, not only at the polite manner in
+which we were received, but by the neat and tastey appearance of the
+little man’s premises and dwelling house. He is evidently a man of
+considerable genius, and far more energy than most of the Traders down
+in these parts.</p>
+
+<p>His kitchen garden was a sight to behold, and although for three months
+he has had no rain he has an abundance of cabbages, carrots, onions,
+shalots, garlick, parsley, spinnach, lettuce, &amp;c. The whole garden too
+is laid out in the most natty matter, showing wonderful care and
+perseverance. Inside his house it was equally neat, and the walls were
+decorated with an enormous number of island curiosities. During the
+slack time of the year when cocoanuts are scarce he makes very curious,
+but extremely chaste, ornaments out of shells, and sells them to Traders
+at about fifteen shillings the pair. He also makes sleeve links out of
+opercules, and many other ornaments of personal adornment. He gave us a
+great basket full of eggs, and some green food for the ship. We bade the
+amiable and loquacious little man good-bye, and thanked him for his
+kindness, and then pushed on for Tavalavola where we found the whole
+village waiting for us, and Charles and Monica heading the party. I was
+most pleased to see the happy and affectionate relations which existed
+between them, and the natural and unaffected way in which she came into
+my house, and the kind care she exhibited in the bestowal of my goods
+and chattels. Afterwards when we went off to the ship she came with us,
+and went down of her own accord to see the Bishop in the cabin. We did
+not stay long on board, but bidding farewell to them all we came ashore
+for the night. I should have liked of course to stay till morning, but
+they were so crowded on board I thought it was better we were out of the
+way. It was near midnight when we finally retired for the night, and I
+was very tired and glad to get to bed. The boys are so nice and
+friendly, and come in and out of my house so naturally, that it gives
+one quite a homely feeling, and when they call me “Mama” (Father) I feel
+quite proud of the spiritual relationship.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78">{78}</a></span> I quite look forward to my
+stay here, and I hope under it God may be the means of much good.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, September 14th.</i>&mdash;Most beautiful morning, but the night was
+very cold, and I was very glad of a blanket over me. We had Prayers and
+school before breakfast, the scholars numbering about 50 of both sexes.
+I was quite astonished at the admirable way most of them read and
+answered, and equally struck with the diligent and painstaking manner in
+which the boys were teaching. The school is admirably conducted, and
+peculiarly well and thoroughly taught. The scholars are evidently very
+sharp, and one or two little boys and a very little wee girl read
+surprisingly well. Charles, the head teacher, is a most steady and
+excellent young fellow, and to him the credit of the efficiency of the
+school is mainly due. All the other boys however, work well and steadily
+with him, and I was particularly gratified to see what a helpmeet his
+wife Monica is to him. In the course of the day the older people were
+about, and I told them I wanted them to come and get instruction also,
+to which they consented. While I was at breakfast the French Trader
+called on me and brought me a most noble present of green food, for
+which I was deeply grateful. He was very amiable, most polite and
+peculiarly loquacious, and I was quite interested in listening to his
+broken English. He is a Parisian and was in the ‘garde mobile’ during
+the siege by the Prussians, which of course means that he is a
+Communist. He left me after a time, and I set to work to put my house in
+order. The boys went to ‘Tahi mamavi,’ where we have a school, which I
+hope we shall be able now to teach regularly. Meramaeto (Paskal) had
+been there living, but some trouble broke out and he had to come away in
+consequence. Now all is pacific again, and we hope to make another fresh
+and vigorous start, which I hope will be permanent. In the afternoon I
+went to see a Trader who had sent me a request to visit him, not having
+a boat of his own. His complaint was, that having a Frenchman on either
+side of him, and he doing a better trade than either they were jealous
+of him, and had threatened him with violence if he did not leave. He is
+a Scotchman and a very decent fellow. The Frenchmen had threatened also
+to lay hands on his copra, looking on him as an interloper, inasmuch as
+they suppose the French are about to annex the New Hebrides group. I did
+all I could to explain his position to the natives, and ‘Tabi’ the
+chief, and really a big man, said that while he dealt fairly with them
+he would see that he was properly protected and fairly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79">{79}</a></span> dealt with. I
+told him that he and I were subjects of one Queen, and of a different
+nationality to the Frenchmen, and that being a steady and well-behaved
+and honest man he ought to help him all he could. He had a great many
+nuts, and a large amount of copra, and I should say he was doing very
+well. He does not trade with powder, or guns, or spirit, and is
+evidently a very temperate man. He asked me to tell the natives not to
+bring the coconuts on Sunday as he wanted that as a day of Rest, and he
+asked me if I could make it convenient to come and see him sometimes on
+that day, because he wished not to forget his God in the midst of his
+mundane pursuits. He has been a sailor all his life, and has a mate’s
+certificate, I think. He has only been here five weeks from Sydney, and
+hitherto has done very well. I got back to dinner, and then went to see
+David, one of our teachers, who is sick. He was very full of his child,
+about three years old, a perfect prodigy. He told me the child would get
+into a perfect frenzy if he were not allowed to go to school and
+Prayers, and when once or twice he has been left at home he has knelt
+down in their house and gone through the form of prayer by himself. He
+will never go without his clothes, and the only time they can get him to
+take them off is to bathe. Even at night he must have on a garment. His
+mother told me too that his first thought in the morning, even before
+eating, was the bell, and he would tug at her sleeve until she took him
+up and started for the school. The same was the case too, in the
+evening. They also told me of a poor girl who had died about a fortnight
+ago. She has been most regular at school for years past, and was far
+away ahead of all the others in knowledge. She never would marry because
+she was afraid she should be debarred from attending school. She was
+most anxious to be Baptized, and when she was taken ill she still longed
+for Baptism. She importuned Charles so on the subject that just before
+her death, he sprinkled her with water in the Name of the Trinity, and
+signed the sign of the Cross on her forehead. She died perfectly happy
+and at peace, and her devoted life and peaceful death have produced a
+great and profound impression in the village.</p>
+
+<p>While talking with David, his old grandmother came in, and she is a
+woman of great age, and marvellous energy. She is now a great
+grandmother, and a bright, cheery old lady. I asked her how old she
+thought she was, and she said she really did not know, but she was very
+aged. She said that I had always told<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80">{80}</a></span> her that she “tugi vetu” (was as
+hard as flint) and it seemed as if she really was. She comes regularly
+to school, but her eyes are so dim that she can only sit and listen.
+Several old ladies attend school only to sit and listen, and they take
+great interest in coming. In the evening we had Prayers, and a very nice
+school afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>So ends my first day, and I hope all the other days I am here may be as
+pleasant and as happy.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 15th.</i>&mdash;A beautiful morning but a strong Trade
+wind blowing. After our morning duties here we sailed down to ‘Lobaha’
+to see Arudale, Didi and the school there. We pulled the boat up on the
+beach, no very easy work with the sand so soft. Most of the boys were
+down at the beach and we all went up together to the village. It was a
+hot, steep climb and we were very liquid when we got there. The boys
+brought us a plentiful supply of young coconuts and with these we
+quenched our thirst. I was glad to see the amiability which was
+manifested one towards another by our people and the Lobaha folks, for
+lately the relations have been somewhat strained.</p>
+
+<p>It appears that not long ago, the chief wife of our Head man took
+offence at his scolding her, and ran away to his younger brother who
+lives at Lobaha. Our great man was very fond of this wife, for they had
+grown up together from childhood, and she had always presided over his
+establishment in a most devoted manner. She is most queenly in
+deportment, and quite one of the finest native women I have ever seen.
+However, she went off, and “Virclumlum” was not only incensed, but very
+sorely grieved. He told the boys in most pathetic words how he missed
+his wife, how that it seemed unbearable to do without her, how that
+everything seemed void and empty now that she was away. However, once
+away it seems she was away for good, and very soon a pig arrived and
+that he had to accept in lieu of her. For a long time the people here
+have never been to Lobaha and contrariwise the Lobaha people here.
+However, we have, I hope, broken the ice again, although I am
+particularly sorry to lose so nice a woman from the place, and I believe
+she has deeply repented already of her conduct and would give worlds to
+be back again. I was glad to see a new school in course of erection, and
+the old men and women told me they were only waiting for it to be
+finished to all coming to school. Herbert has already a nice little
+building at his own place, but the people say it is too far away, and
+any excuse is enough to keep people away from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81">{81}</a></span> religious duties. Herbert
+shewed me with manifest pride, the most beautiful tool chest sent by his
+English “mother” (Miss Mount). He has been trying to use the tools, and
+I saw an attempt at some amount of straightness in the new building at
+which he was assisting. We stayed some time with him, talking over
+matters in connection with the school, &amp;c., and then we made
+preparations for home. The wind was blowing strong down the coast, so
+that a sail was useless, and we had a heavy pull. However, the boys are
+very good oarsmen, and we got along famously. I anchored the boat off
+for the night, having use for her again to-morrow. It was a very
+miserable evening, the wind blowing in strong gusts, and the threatened
+rain falling at short intervals. We had Prayers and a very long
+interesting school afterwards. The boys and girls here are very sharp,
+and learn very rapidly, and seem to understand well what they read.
+There are three classes of Catechumens preparing for Baptism, adults,
+boys and girls, all more or less proficient. Altogether, this school is
+very cheering, and with such an excellent head teacher as Charles, one
+need not fear of its stability.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 16th.</i>&mdash;After our morning duties were over here we
+rowed up to “Lo tahi mamavi,” and had school there with a large number
+of people, who were very enthusiastic to know more and to be regularly
+taught.</p>
+
+<p>There are a nice lot of boys here, and some already know how to read.
+The old men I had school with, and they seemed quite delighted to say
+the letters one by one, and afterwards to put them together, and find
+out that they made Opa words. I told them as far as I could about our
+religion, and that I had left home, and all to come and live with them
+and teach them, but that Jesus Christ pitied and loved us so much that
+He left heaven, and His Father’s glory to come down into our world to
+live and die for us. They were very attentive, and asked me to come
+again, which I promised to do on Sunday, all being well. They gave us a
+handsome present of food according to native custom, and we left for
+home. It was raining heavily and we got very wet, but the distance was
+not very great. It was a most unpleasant evening, and I was cold and
+miserable, and I began to fear ague again. Last night was most wretched,
+my house was not properly finished, and the strong gusts of wind blew me
+almost out of bed, and brought in clouds of dust. To-day the boys have
+been patching up the holes, and it is more snug and comfortable.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">{82}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, September 17th.</i>&mdash;Fine morning and very close and hot after the
+rain. After breakfast I received a visit from an English Trader, who
+lives about two miles from me. Poor fellow, in my honour he had put on a
+coat, and he was literally running with perspiration when he reached my
+house, and he did not succeed in getting cool again before he left
+although he stayed some time. He seems to be doing a very fair trade
+here in copra, and although he has not been long on the island, he has
+already several tons of the dried coconut (copra). After he left I was
+attacked with a good-for-nothing fit and did nothing all day. In the
+evening I was very queer, and thought I was going to have rheumatism, my
+legs were so cold and my limbs generally so frail. However I managed
+Evensong and school, and was not sorry to be ready early for bed.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, September 18th.</i>&mdash;General holiday here. The boys wished me to
+take them to Vuinago, fishing, to which I rashly consented. It was a
+perfectly windless day and, oh! so hot. We had a long weary pull up, but
+were very successful when we got there, and came home late in the
+evening with about eighty fish. I was very glad to be able to send ten
+to the French Trader, as a return for all his many kindnesses to me, the
+rest were divided out to different great people, and about thirty were
+kept for to-morrow’s dinner. I was very glad the boys did not forget the
+women in their distribution. I had a nice fish for my own tea, a kind of
+mackarel. Very soon after dinner it was Prayer time, and I am now
+preparing for bed being very tired, sunburnt, and sleepy.</p>
+
+<p>The boys are having great fun over the way, and it is evident the outing
+has not had much ill effect on their spirits.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, September 19th.</i>&mdash;Yesterday was perfectly calm and cloudless,
+and to-day again it is blowing very hard, with rain squalls at
+intervals. We began the day with school, and then after an interval for
+breakfast we had Mattins with a fair congregation. The females are very
+enthusiastic and attend very regularly, and the same applies to the
+boys, but the older men are very callous. There are one or two who never
+miss, but the majority are much more concerned with the affairs of this
+world, than about the one thing needful. There are one or two old
+fellows who are very regular, and who seem really to like being taught,
+but most of the men prefer the free and careless life to which they have
+always been accustomed. There are many who feel the beauty of
+Christianity, but it is so hard to them to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83">{83}</a></span> practise it. They think it
+is all right for boys and women, but they themselves cannot stand the
+bother and burden it entails.</p>
+
+<p>After Prayers we went up to “Tahi mamavi” and found the whole population
+awaiting us. We divided them into five sets, two of boys, one of youths,
+and two of old men. Charles and I taught the old men, and found them
+very attentive. Walter Tarigisibue addressed the youths who seemed
+appreciative, and Paschal and Peter taught the boys who were said to
+learn very quickly. They asked us to fix a day for coming again, and
+said they should expect us every Sunday. I had been feeling sick and
+queer all day, and coming home was violently sick in the boat. I got
+home as quickly as possible, but the sickness continued, accompanied by
+ague, and afterwards strong fever headache, and then strong
+perspiration, and this morning, (Monday) convalescence.</p>
+
+<p>However, I am very washed out and good for nothing, and shall rest at
+home. I am disappointed however, for I meant to have gone to the other
+side of the island in the boat, and had made all my preparations. Now I
+must wait a bit.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, September 21st.</i>&mdash;Reasonably convalescent again, but weak and
+not fit for much. It was a most unpleasant day however, with fitful
+squalls of rain and wind, and I could not have gone far even if I had
+wanted. The boys were busy planting “Virelumlum’s” yam garden, and were
+kept hard at work all day. I was not surprised, for I previously knew it
+to be the custom here for the chief’s wives to prepare his food in the
+gamal. Generally speaking, women are not admitted within these edifices,
+and more especially here, but to-day Virelumlum’s wives, three or four
+in number, were busy with the men getting ready the evening meal. I
+asked them where they were going to eat themselves, and they said with
+some naïvete, “Oh! that is a secondary matter, we have to get our
+masters’ dinner ready and shift for ourselves as best we may.” It would
+be impossible for them to eat any food cooked in the gamal, and so
+religiously have they been brought up under this restriction, that they
+would probably sooner die of hunger than attempt to appease their
+appetites with what to them is sacred food, or at least forbidden, and
+they are more faithful to the laws of men, than was Eve to the law of
+God. And, I suppose as spiritual death was the judgment on Eve’s
+disobedience, so would physical death be the penalty in case of their
+transgression. Human life is not more highly valued here than it is in
+Ireland, and a woman’s life is not much accounted of, and death is the
+common penalty for very<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84">{84}</a></span> trivial offences. Here it is universally
+averred that woman is at the root of all the evil that transpires, and
+poor things, they are too often the victims where the men go scott free.
+Here the females are much in excess of the males, and naturally polygamy
+is widely practised. The big men however, get the lion’s share, and it
+is no uncommon thing to find a troop of women in the households of the
+chiefs, varying from ten to fifty or even one hundred. All no doubt are
+not wives, but slaves and beasts of burden, and these big guns do
+nothing themselves but impose all the duties of the house and garden on
+their women. I do not think I am maligning the Opa men when I say that I
+look upon them as hideously lazy, but of course that results in large
+measure from their imposing their own natural duties on others, whom
+they find ready or obliged to do it for them. It is quite different at
+Maewo, where monogamy now mostly obtains, and where the men take an
+active and a man’s share in all out door employments. However Virelumlum
+was very active bustling about among his women, and I saw him
+shouldering off a big burden of yams, following up the rear of a troop
+of preceding females.</p>
+
+<p>Here time seems of no importance and no account, and it wearies me
+sometimes to see people squatting about for hours at a time, whistling
+or otherwise killing time. It is an ennervating climate no doubt, but
+that is no excuse for laziness in people who have been born and brought
+up in the country. I often urge laggards and idlers, who make my house a
+convenient lounge, to go to work and plant their fences, but as nothing
+can be done out of due course, what was, is, and ever must be the same.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening there was a great feast spread for the workers, and the
+day finished like all days here, with Evensong and school. This little
+village is a bright spot in the surrounding darkness, and I trust in
+time its influence for good will be more widely felt than even now. The
+attendants at the school seem wonderfully staunch, and the teachers very
+earnest, and I pray God that their vigorous instruction may not be lost
+on the heathen people around them. But there is the same callousness
+attending religious practice as about everything else here, and although
+they see the beauty and the benefit of Christianity, the effort is too
+great to reduce its blessed precepts to daily practice.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, September 22nd.</i>&mdash;By-and-bye I shall have as much trouble
+with my white flock, as with the black. The white Traders have got some
+feud one against the other because of difference of nationality, and I
+had to listen again to accusations<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85">{85}</a></span> from an Englishman against a
+Frenchman, as to plots against his life and property. Poor man, he is
+new to the business, is doing well, and fancies that he is taking the
+bread out of the Frenchmen’s mouths, but there is room for all. I found
+he was not only filled with gloomy fears himself, but had imbued the
+chief under whom he lives with warlike intentions also, and I had to put
+a veto upon any resort to open violence. I told the chief “Tabi,” that
+he must keep his hands from all white men, and if he had any complaints
+to make, to make them in the proper quarter, and not take the law into
+his own hands. He must learn the sacredness of human life, and not rush
+to bow and arrow and club for every fancied affront or grievance. As
+long as I was here I would do my best to see that peace and harmony
+reigned among whites and blacks, but I would countenance no violence or
+bloodshed. After this I went to the Frenchman at Lan̈an̈qa, and he
+seemed very surprised to think that he was accused of any ill feeling,
+and judging from his good nature I should imagine his surprise was
+genuine. However, I said it was very hard if a few white men living on
+so large an island, could not live at peace, even if their nationalities
+were various, and if they could not agree among themselves, what could
+be expected of the natives? I quite like the natty little man, and
+certainly he is the best colonist I have ever seen down here. He is a
+most handy man and always employed, and as far as industry goes, he sets
+the natives a very excellent example. The neatness of his house and
+surroundings too, ought to have a good effect.</p>
+
+<p>The fine day turned into a most dirty, rough, unpleasant evening, and we
+went to Prayers in a perfect downpour of rain. After Church there were
+great searchings of heart among the elders, and I publicly announced
+that I wanted the names of those who wished for Baptism. To the surprise
+of everybody, and to the delight of not a few, four women stood up and
+said almost simultaneously “Inew” (I). These quiet, demure creatures,
+generally so terribly afraid of the men, and always so shy in public,
+must have been influenced by a stronger Power than any they had hitherto
+known to make this public profession, and it produced no small sensation
+on all present. Two men also said they wished to be admitted to the
+Sacred Rite, and I hope they will soon be followed by many more. Charles
+Tariqatu’s influence here is great, and the fruits of his thorough and
+earnest teaching are beginning to be felt. He is so thorough and good
+himself, that his example and influence have all the more effect.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86">{86}</a></span> There
+will be about twenty to be baptized on Sunday, the nucleus I trust, of a
+good Christian population hereafter.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 23rd.</i>&mdash;A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day.
+Fortunately there was a great festivity here, and I was not left without
+something to do all day. I trust I did not spend quite an unprofitable
+time. I begin to see distinct light through my work here now, and I can
+see how the seed sown through long years is at last beginning to bear
+fruit. I am eminently satisfied with the work of the boys here, and I
+can see that Charles’s influence pervades everything. One man to-day,
+who never has taken much interest in our teaching, came to ask me if
+Martin Tan̈abei might not come back from Norfolk Island, and live with
+him and his people as teacher. Another told me that my words to him of
+former years have quite changed the course of his life, and no doubt he
+is as different as possible to what he formerly was. I was under
+engagement to go to Tahimamavi, but when we were launching the boat the
+rain came down in such torrents that I reluctantly turned back. The
+evening was as bad as the day, and most uncomfortable it was in my
+leaking, cold house. We had Evensong with a good congregation, but a
+great gust of wind put out the principal lamp in the very middle of the
+service, and made it somewhat dismal.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, September 24th.</i>&mdash;Fine bright morning and a very hot day.
+Having failed to go to “Tahimamavi” yesterday I resolved to go instead
+this morning. We had a hot, but a most pleasant row up the coast about
+three miles, and found the people awaiting our arrival. They had been
+disappointed that we did not come yesterday, but supposed that the rain
+was the occasion of our failing in our promise. Such a nice number of
+bright boys assembled for school, and a great many grown-up people. The
+boys were divided into two classes, and two of the boys taught them
+their letters. The older men I undertook to teach myself with the help
+of Peter. I made a few remarks at first and then told Peter to say a few
+words. I was quite unprepared for what followed. It is not often I have
+seen such an effect on a native audience, and his flow of natural
+eloquence from beginning to end quite held the men enchained. With a
+great deal of energy, and a vast amount of earnestness, he went into the
+thick of his subject, and left an impression which I feel sure must,
+under God, have a good effect. At the end of his remarks he said very
+modestly, “You may perhaps think it presumptuous in me to stand here in
+your presence and speak like this, you who are old<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87">{87}</a></span> enough to be my
+fathers, and so high in rank all of you as to look upon me as a mere
+nonentity, and indeed I am amazed at my own audacity. But I speak about
+things of so momentous import that I take the chance of your
+displeasure, and submit myself to whatever verdict you may choose to
+return. Were I only concerned about things which belong to our heathen
+state, I should take the place of a humble listener and you should do
+the talking, but here all is different, for out of the abundance of the
+heart the mouth must speak, and that heart and mouth, thank God, are
+mine.” There was not even an assent of approval, all were so impressed
+with the message delivered so eloquently by a mere boy. I said at the
+end, after a long pause, for I did not like to break the spell which
+seemed to hold them all, “Our son has spoken good words to you which I
+hope you will not soon forget.” And they all said, “Who can forget
+them?” I was also much pleased with the way the boys had got on with
+their reading after so few lessons, and altogether I felt that a “great
+door and effectual had been opened here,” for which I was most thankful
+to Almighty God. Now it remains but to put a good teacher there, and I
+think a wide harvest may by God’s blessing be soon gathered in. We came
+back with a fair wind in the afternoon, and in the evening again we had
+torrents of rain. However, we had our full complement at Prayers, and a
+very nice time afterwards.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, September 25th.</i>&mdash;I had intended to-day to have gone to
+Walurigi, but it set in to a wet day, and I was obliged to stay at home.
+However, I had a succession of visitors, and among them some Bushmen
+from a long way inland. The boys told me some odd stories about them,
+how ignorant they formerly were and what strange things they did in
+consequence. When they first came down to the sea they fancied it was
+hungry, because the surf came rolling in, as they said, “mouth wide
+open.” They therefore gave it food to eat. Knowing only the taro root,
+when first getting possession of a yam, they fancied it was firewood and
+put into the fire. Some many years ago they came down here in quest of a
+pig, and while waiting in the gamal their eyes caught sight of a tin
+with the picture of a lobster outside. Thinking this was something very
+wonderful they stole it, and marched off homewards with it instead of
+their pig. Arriving at their village home the chief made a great feast
+for it, and placed it in the midst of the village dancing ground, and
+went through the various ceremonies as if it were a pig in verity.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88">{88}</a></span> The
+ceremonies over, the chief advanced to the tin, and with his foot,
+squashed up the tin as if he was treading the life of a pig out, with
+the inevitable result that he almost cut his foot off. Now-a-days of
+course they are more enlightened, and the men who were here to-day I
+found very amiable and intelligent. All “salt water” natives despise
+Bushmen, and they have always stories to tell of them. There is somehow
+a natural feud existing between them, but the agression I must say,
+comes generally from the Bushmen. They do, certainly, very unaccountable
+things, but they are always forgiven, and their conduct explained by
+saying, “Oh, they are only Bushmen,” or as they say here “(Taute).” A
+small vessel passed here in the afternoon, and anchored off M. Moussu’s
+place “Ian̈an̈qa.” In the evening there was the greatest excitement, the
+boys returning from fishing saw a boat under sail coming down the coast,
+and the general idea was that it was Mr. Brittain. I was led into the
+swim, and made active preparations for his reception, but he never
+turned up, the sail belonged to some other boat.</p>
+
+<p>Heavy rain and strong wind squalls again in the evening.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, September 26th.</i>&mdash;A day which will ever be memorable to me,
+here at Tavolavola. To-day I Baptized twenty-five people, and it has
+been indeed a day of great spiritual enjoyment to me. Before I was up in
+the very early morning, I heard boys in the school house reading their
+baptismal service over, and all through the day there are some who have
+never had their books out of their hands. The teachers have done their
+part most admirably, and I thank God for such earnest children. We had
+school before breakfast, and a most excellent school too. I went from
+class to class leaving A. P. Huqe to discourse the older men. The boys,
+nothing daunted by my presence, kept their instruction going, which was
+generally very thorough and good. The earnestness of all was quite
+remarkable. After school and breakfast we had Morning Prayers, a nice
+hearty service, and after that we started by boat for “Tahimamavi.” Here
+we found the people awaiting us, and soon we were assembled for school.
+Charles gave the old men a very good and eloquent address, and three
+other classes were provided for. On our way home we stopped for a few
+minutes to learn the news from the schooner at anchor, but they had none
+except that the French troops were still at Port Sandwich, and did not
+intend to move at present, and moreover, that the Mail Steamer had a
+contract to come as far North as that Port. This does not look like
+clearing out of the group, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89">{89}</a></span> Captain told me they had not the
+least intention of moving at present. Before long we shall know the fate
+of these islands, but I sincerely trust they may not fall into the hands
+of the French. In the afternoon I was most pleased to see the teachers
+selecting boys and youths, more especially connected with them by ties
+of kindred, and taking them for a walk and serious talk, as is the
+custom at Norfolk Island. Everyone was so filled with enthusiasm that
+the chief himself sent to say he wished to be Baptized, but inasmuch as
+he has already four or five wives, and contemplates taking more, I could
+not listen to his petition for a moment. To put away his wives would
+lower him in rank at once, and in the choice between God and Mammon, he
+felt the difficulty of putting away any of his women, and I was obliged
+to leave him with his god Mammon.</p>
+
+<p>In the early evening we decorated the Font, and when the building was
+lit up at night with lots of candles, it looked quite nice. The service
+was quite one of the most stirring I have ever taken part in, and the
+ready responses one by one, of men and women, produced a great effect on
+every one present. The women, generally like poor frightened, startled
+creatures, answered out marvellously, with a vigour and earnestness,
+such as no one was prepared for. The ceremony of Baptizing twenty-five
+people took some time, but no one seemed fatigued, so interested were
+they in what was going on. Among the number Baptized were a blind man,
+and a blind woman, but they, like the rest, were wonderfully
+self-possessed. Poor Diu, whom I called Kate, after Miss Lodge, who had
+nursed her so faithfully at Norfolk Island, was perfectly ecstatic in
+her delight, and seemed endued with special strength, having risen from
+a bed of sickness on purpose to be present.</p>
+
+<p>I gave a short address afterwards, and was followed by Charles, who
+spoke well to the subject, and in very good taste considering the number
+of outsiders present.</p>
+
+<p>We finished with the Nunc Dimittis, a fitting conclusion to a most
+beautiful service.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, September 27th.</i>&mdash;A most beautiful day, and a whole holiday. I
+told the scholars in the morning that I wished to see only smiling and
+happy faces all day, and to hear of nothing but joy and gladness because
+of the occasion of the holiday, viz., to celebrate the spiritual
+birthday of twenty-five brothers and sisters. Food in large quantities
+was provided, and we managed to secure two pigs for the feast. I think
+it was the brightest and happiest day I have ever known here, and our
+festivities were shared in by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90">{90}</a></span> a number of neighbours. Contrary to
+strict custom here, the women and girls of the school prepared the food
+under the trees on the beach, the boys chopping the wood and doing the
+heavy work. The scene was a very animated one, and all seemed to be in
+the very best of tempers. In the evening the ovens were opened, and the
+distribution of the food was made. Unfortunately I was not very well
+myself, but that did not interfere very much with the rest. In the cool
+of the evening the boys played a number of their native games, very
+pretty and very picturesque, with a pretty song to each. When darkness
+closed in we had Evensong, and then the happy day was brought to an end.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, September 28th.</i>&mdash;This morning after our duties here, we
+started for a long voyage to “Vagebeo,” which means something like “down
+West.” “Beo” is the word used there for “down,” while ours here is
+“Hivo.” “Vage” is a particle put before the name of a place with a sense
+of motion towards the place, thus when we are going to Maewo we are here
+going “vage Maewo,” or Araga “vage Raga,” or Marino “vage Marino,” and
+so when we are going to the Beo people we are going “Vage Beo.” We call
+the people of those parts “Meraibeo.” They, on the other hand, term
+these parts “Taulu,” “up East,” and when coming here they say they are
+going “Vageulu,” because our word for “up” here is “Ulu.” We here are to
+them “Natiulu.”</p>
+
+<p>We had a light, fair wind down, and did the journey in good time. We
+hauled up our boat at a place called “Duidui,” where a Mr. Wilber,
+commonly called “Jim” by white traders, and by the natives, “Timi,”
+lives.</p>
+
+<p>He came down to welcome us, and extended his hospitality to me as long
+as I chose to stay. I was not sorry to accept it, and I made his
+residence the basis of my operations. He has been here for many years,
+and is well known and very much liked by the natives. He does a very
+extensive business there in copra (the dried coconut), &amp;c., and deals
+very kindly, liberally, and most honourably with the people. He has very
+nice premises there, and a large establishment. He got us refreshments
+served as soon as we arrived, and after resting for a time he went with
+me to the village of the great man of those parts “An̈ga,” or as the
+Traders call him, “anchor.” I knew him formerly as a very large and
+powerful man, but long sickness has reduced him to a terrible and
+pitiable state of weakness and leanness. He asked me to come and settle
+in those parts and start a school for his people. The natives there are
+very numerous and extremely amiable, and I feel<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91">{91}</a></span> sure a great deal might
+be done if I could see my way to settling there. A fine young fellow,
+his son, was very friendly, and also asked me to come and teach them. I
+said I would see what I could do if they would spare me some boys to go
+to Norfolk Island to be taught. This they said they would do, as they
+were tired of the Labour ships. We got back, and Mr. Wilber indulged us
+in a most sumptuous repast. The boys, my boat’s crew, being tired, we
+had Prayers early, and they retired for the night in very comfortable
+quarters provided for them. We, Mr. Wilber, another white man and
+myself, sat talking till far on into the night, and when I retired it
+was to the ample recesses of a large four poster, with sheets and other
+delights and comforts of civilization. I felt I had turned my host out
+of his bed, but he would insist on my sleeping where he had put me, and
+I acquiesced. The next morning, <i>Wednesday, 29th September</i>, it was very
+hot and calm, and I determined not to start till the afternoon. After a
+sumptuous lunch I went to another great man’s village, and received a
+warm welcome. There they told me that they would build me a schoolhouse
+and give me boys, and would sell their land to no one else if I would
+come there and occupy it. Altogether the cry from Macedonia to come over
+and help them was very cheering, and I must try what I can do for them.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of this period of my work, it is pleasant and thankworthy to
+find the Morian’s land stretching out her hands unto God. We started
+soon after I got back for “home,” and had a long, toilsome journey up.
+However, the boat’s crew were very plucky and merry, and didn’t seem
+much to mind as the boat’s head was towards Tavolavola. I myself was
+very seasick in the smooth water, and very soon was in the shivering fit
+of the ague. I made as good a bed as possible in the boat, and lay down
+till I got here. On arrival I found Mr. Brittain and party here, and
+felt sorry for him that I was such a sorry host. I certainly felt
+cheered by his society, and we sat quite late talking about matters of
+mutual interest.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, September 30th.</i>&mdash;After a night of fever and strong
+perspiration I got up this morning feeling fairly refreshed, and a good
+deal better, but weak and not fit for much. Mr. Brittain and his party
+went to Lobaha by boat, but I stayed at home to rest. In the afternoon
+we walked up to M. Moussu’s place, and he showed us with great pride his
+garden and poultry yard, and all the other many things which his
+ingenuity devised, and his cunning hand has fashioned. He gave a
+splendid quantity of green food,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92">{92}</a></span> which we afterwards enjoyed for
+dinner. Prayers concluded the public part of the day, and Mr. B. and
+myself sat till late talking here in the quiet of a most pacific and
+mild evening.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 1st.</i>&mdash;Fine day. After our morning duties here were
+over, Mr. Brittain and I went up to Tahimamavi, and stayed some time
+with the kind-hearted people.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving, Mr. Brittain bought a number of native Opa mats, which
+are much treasured at his station at Araga. The Opa people are great
+hands at mat weaving, and are possessors of a greater quantity and
+variety than any natives I know. Since the introduction of European
+calico the manufacture has somewhat diminished. However, when it comes
+to getting so much tobacco, a great many still turn up, and for the
+labour it must be to make them, the price is perhaps inadequate except
+they get all they ask.</p>
+
+<p>We came home in the very hot sun, and Mr. Brittain sat down to dinner
+alone, I myself being too sick to join him. All the evening I was fit
+for nothing, and lay down all the time. I did not get up for church, and
+only finally left my bed to go back to it again for the night. I felt
+miserably shabby in my position as host to treat my guest so, but I
+could not help it.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 2nd.</i>&mdash;Dull threatening morning and squally. Mr.
+Brittain and party decided to go although we tried to detain them. The
+day, however, cleared, and as they did not return we concluded that they
+had stood across for Maewo. I was feeling weak and miserable when the
+kind little Frenchman, M. Moussu, appeared to take me away to have lunch
+with him. I had agreed to partake of his hospitality on this day, but
+had quite forgotten all about it. However, my seediness was excuse
+enough for my forgetfulness, and here he was with his boat to take me
+off. He is a first rate cook, and treated me to such a display of
+luxuries as I have never before seen in these parts. The choicest soup,
+&amp;c., &amp;c., and later on in the feast a most excellent dish of beche de
+mer. This I liked very much, and should fancy it was very nourishing. He
+complained of my want of appetite, and J. was sorry I had not more when
+so many good things were there to be eaten. He brought me back again in
+his boat, and I felt pretty well all the evening. We had Prayers, and
+singing practice afterwards, preparatory to Sunday. The evening was
+fine, and I trust Mr. Brittain and party are well on their homeward way.
+I wished him to stay till Monday, but he was anxious to get back for
+Sunday.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93">{93}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 3rd.</i>&mdash;Last night I fancied A. P. Huqe was at the point
+of death. To-day I felt very ill myself, and have been fit for very
+little all day. I managed to get through my Sunday duties here, however,
+and Charles, Mera, and some others went to Tahimamavi, where they had
+the usual school. I feel very comforted at the earnest manner with which
+these good people are stretching out their hands at last unto God. I
+pray that His Spirit may descend upon them in ample measure, that they
+may continue as earnest to the end as they have now begun to be. I
+trust, too, the zeal and perseverance of the boys may keep up, so that
+the teaching may be regularly carried on, and the Word of God become a
+savour of life unto life.</p>
+
+<p>At present they are very earnest and even indefatigable, but I am
+somewhat afraid lest white supervision may have something to do with
+this, and when I am away the present enthusiasm may die down, and things
+be allowed to go on as they were before.</p>
+
+<p>Would to God I had a few more teachers like Charles Tariqatu, a man in
+whom truly the Spirit of God is, the most earnest, humble, patient,
+God-fearing, Gospel-loving youth Opa has ever known. I can only commit
+the matter to God, and He will provide as seemeth Him best.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I was very sick and could eat no dinner, and went to bed
+with ague. Could not go to Church, and Charles took the service and
+preached.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, October 4th.</i>&mdash;Not very well. I had promised, if well enough,
+to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine
+day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very
+ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot
+flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted
+a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and
+comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he
+was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give
+him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him
+good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed
+aguish and shivering.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, October 5th.</i>&mdash;We had got through our morning duties, and I
+had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting
+for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable
+<i>Southern Cross</i> close at hand. It was not long before she was at
+anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer
+on board from some distance<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">{94}</a></span> off, and when we got alongside, the first
+question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was
+good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop
+and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was
+Mrs. Selwyn in <i>proporia persona</i>, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I
+was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her
+by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most
+glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our
+ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again
+ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were
+going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my
+surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were
+very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous
+at Norfolk Island.</p>
+
+<p>One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on
+board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is
+forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under
+steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about
+8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead,
+and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night.
+In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the
+cool night air ashore.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, October 6th.</i>&mdash;On board the <i>Southern Cross</i>. The tide did
+not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part,
+because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together
+preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn
+went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was
+quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too,
+was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another
+night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However,
+I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of
+sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, October 7th.</i>&mdash;Mrs. Selwyn kindly came in with the Bishop to
+see the last of me, and A. P. Huqe and myself sat some time after our
+farewells had been said, deliberating the stupendous undertaking of
+getting to Tanrig. We were both much refreshed by our stay on board, and
+quite ready for our stay on shore again. I shall certainly not want for
+medical comforts and dainties, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95">{95}</a></span> even medicines, for the Bishop was
+kindness itself in lading me with one good thing after another, until my
+paraphernalia of travel have increased to the no small consternation of
+my bearers. When the vessel was well away we made our start, and with
+the expenditure of most of our strength, and certainly of all our
+moisture, we got at length to the top of the first hill. Then it was all
+plain sailing, and we got to Ruosi, where we rested and bathed. In that
+refreshing water I seemed to have left all my ailments and distresses,
+and I was quite another being when I started again for Tanrig. Hither we
+arrived in due course, and Huqe, too, seemed quite like another being.
+It is so nice getting back here again, with the cool invigorating air
+and the cheery welcoming faces all so pleasant. I miss Arthur, though,
+very much, and now that Patrick has gone in the ship, the place is
+almost devoid of teachers, ourselves excepted. The first evening ashore
+was fine, and the moon shone out brightly as we were coming from
+Prayers.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 8th.</i>&mdash;It rained very heavily during the night, and
+this morning and all day it blew very hard, with heavy rain squalls at
+intervals. I did not go out all day, and indeed, I had enough to keep me
+at home. The people were away busy with their gardens, and the women at
+home preparing the food for the men. I had almost interminable visits
+from one and another, during the day, to see the pictures which I had
+taken of the place, and which Dr. Codrington has printed and sent down
+to me. They were quite charmed with them, and were much more clever in
+finding out faces and details, than ever I expected they would be. The
+day drew rapidly to a close, and the evening was fairly pleasant, but
+somewhat cold and damp. We had a fair attendance at evening school, and
+I gave them an address instead of school.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 9th.</i>&mdash;A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. The
+rain poured down, and the village looked as if it were going to be
+flooded. It kept on, too, without intermission almost the whole day, and
+I could not stir out of doors. However, I had plenty of occupation, and
+the time passed rapidly. It cleared slightly towards evening, and it was
+fine overhead for Evensong. Nothing seems to keep these hardy people
+indoors, and most of them have been paddling about all day in their taro
+gardens, utterly regardless of the state of the elements. In spite of
+all inconveniences we had quite a large evening congregation, and few
+seemed the worse in any way for the unpleasant day. It was a cold, raw
+evening, and I am not sorry that bed-time is so near.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96">{96}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 10th.</i>&mdash;The day somewhat finer overhead, but still very
+squally and boisterous. As soon as I was up and dressed we had morning
+school, with a large and general attendance. The first two classes are
+supposed to say their Sunday Collect at this school, and answer
+questions on it. The school begins with a Hymn and Prayer, and finishes
+with the Lord’s Prayer and the Grace. The third class learn the Church
+Catechism, and the remainder of the school read from a small manual
+containing the first seven chapters of S. Matthew’s Gospel. The school
+lasts about an hour. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice
+service, and I Baptized the infant son of Thomas and Lily by name and
+special request&mdash;Penny. A. P. Huqe, Harry, and Agnes stood sponsors. The
+Font was very tastefully and prettily decorated by Arthur, and the
+service was very solemn.</p>
+
+<p>After Matins I assembled the Catechumens for instruction, and I told
+them that I wished everyone present fully to make up his or her mind to
+the dignity, the solemnity, and responsibility of what they were
+undertaking. They are the last unbaptized inhabitants of Tanrig, and of
+their own accord have pressed for Baptism. They number over twenty, and
+seem very much in earnest, especially the older men and women. It is
+most gratifying to me, and a matter for which I cannot sufficiently
+thank God, that just at the end of this era of my missionary life, I
+should see such zeal and earnestness exhibited by the people among whom
+I have worked so long, and apparently with so little result. I shall
+leave behind me here, please God, an entirely Christian village, in
+profession at least, and I trust in reality also. There are one or two I
+wanted to leave out, but they seem so anxious to be Baptized, that I
+leave their future with God and the blessing of His spirit, and accede
+to their request. We have here now, all the organizations of a Christian
+community, a good school, an excellent Church, and a zealous
+congregation. Surely one can labour on steadfast and unmoveable, seeing
+that one’s labour is not in vain in the Lord. At other stations also,
+people are crying out for Baptism, and before I leave, please God, I
+shall admit many into the Fold of Christ’s Flock.</p>
+
+<p>It was too wet to get about during the afternoon, but we had our usual
+social meal in the school-house, and in due course, Evensong. This was
+one of the heartiest and most inspiriting services I have ever known
+here, and the congregation felt the same, the singing, the responses and
+all, went with a swing and harmony which shewed that the people’s hearts
+were in it. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97">{97}</a></span> gave a discourse on the Gospel for the day, the story of
+the widow’s son at Nain, and likened them to the young man, and Christ
+coming and touching the bier and saying stop! to the powers of evil who
+were carrying them, dead in trespasses and sins, out to their burial.
+The young man sat up and began to speak, and our first act, when
+delivered from the wrath to come, should be to sit up and speak and
+declare God’s praises for all He has done for us in His dear Son our
+Saviour. We had singing afterwards, and then dispersed for the night. A
+great many of the congregation lingered outside, to wish me good-night.
+Thank God for these real days, how different to the old heathen times,
+when the people were still lying in the darkness and shadow of death.
+God grant that they may know Him and the power of His resurrection, and
+be filled with His fulness and grace.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, October 11th</i>, was much finer, and the sun shone out in rich
+splendour. The people at this time of the year are very busy planting
+their yam gardens, and every day they are at work from morning until
+night. The men do the toiling part, the women the cooking. They work in
+parties, and many hands make light work. The harmonium being out of
+order I stayed to try and mend it. I was interrupted in the midst of my
+work by visitors from Tasmouri and Tasmate, and retired to my house to
+talk with them. When they left I finished my job, and was far more
+successful than ever I dared to hope. The bellows had burst, and the
+wind escaped in such quantities that it was hard to get any music at all
+out of the instrument. I could only make a patch up affair of it, but it
+was so far successful that a volume of sound was emitted such as I have
+never heard from it before, and the addition to the singing in the
+evening was very marked. I had intended to have made an excursion during
+the day, but it was too late when I had finished, and I had to content
+myself at home. After Evensong I took the Catechumens for a lesson, and
+afterwards joined my own class in the school previous to the Roll Call.
+The evening was fine, but blustery and raw, and I fancy the people were
+tired, for there was quietness soon after school.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, October 12th.</i>&mdash;Very rough, squally morning and a terribly
+windy night. Sometimes I fancied I was going to be blown over altogether
+in my frail native hut. However, these little tenements stand a great
+deal, and here I am safe and sound at the beginning of a new day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98">{98}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After early Morning Prayer we had our usual school, and breakfast
+followed. I have no refreshment before this meal, and sometimes I feel a
+little famished, but am generally ready for the breakfast when it comes.
+It is not a very sumptuous meal at the best of times, plain rice and a
+cup of coffee, but it does very well, and stops the craving of the
+appetite as well as anything else. The strange thing is that at home I
+scarcely ever touch rice, having a positive aversion to it, but here I
+make my breakfast on it nine mornings out of ten.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast I had school with a very earnest Candidate for Baptism
+who comes from Mandurvat, and wished for special instruction. I hope I
+managed to explain to him any difficulties he has experienced in the
+nature and meaning of the service. When he was dismissed I wended my way
+with some of the boys to Ruosi, where I bathed and washed my clothes. I
+do not know what it was, but when I got home I was quite exhausted, and
+somehow I don’t feel as strong as I did at the beginning of the season.
+We had very hearty Evensong, and a nice class with the Catechumens, who,
+I think, are very much in earnest, especially the older men. There are
+about twenty in this class, the last remnant of the heathen population.
+With their Baptism, Tanrig will cease to have any remains of heathenism,
+and in name at least will be able to call itself Christian. The usual
+school was held, and the first two classes were engaged in solving the
+mysteries of simple addition, one of the girls succeeding in doing a six
+line sum without a fault. This same girl, Emily by name, is rather a
+creditable production for this out of the world place. She reads well,
+answers well, and writes well, besides being quite an adept at figures.
+A couple of years at Norfolk Island would make a very useful woman of
+her. There are seven others in her class who all are very fair scholars,
+and take their turn at teaching.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, October 13th.</i>&mdash;Very fine morning and very warm. After our
+morning duties were over there was soon a dead silence over the village,
+the people all going off to their several occupations in their gardens.
+I busied myself, and got very hot over a little simple carpentering&mdash;but
+oh! the tools, they were so blunt and so rusty. However, I managed to do
+fairly well what I wanted to do, viz. to enlarge the Communion table,
+and generally to give a more Churchy appearance to the East end of our
+Church. I proposed to myself a bathe after my labours were over, but I
+was too exhausted, and stayed at home in preference. However, the shades
+of evening soon stole on, and my little cooks came to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99">{99}</a></span> get my dinner,
+which, frugal as it was, I enjoyed with the best of sauce&mdash;hunger. The
+evening was calm and fine, and I sat outside my house and enjoyed myself
+with a book. In the evening they came to tell me of the death of a poor
+heathen woman who has lately come here, and has been for years past a
+confirmed invalid. Poor thing! the women came back in the evening to
+find her cold and stiff in death, without a soul near her to say a word
+of comfort or to close her eyes in dying. She was buried in the
+moonlight, and her memory consigned to oblivion with her body. Her sad
+story afforded me a fitting text for the Catechumens afterwards, which I
+trust was not unproductive of seasonable lessons and wholesome and
+solemn warnings. Our singing school subsequently was very nice, after
+which everyone seemed glad to turn in for the night.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, October 14th.</i>&mdash;Fine bright morning, and a most beautiful day
+with a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties I was left
+alone, the people being away almost at once to their gardens. They work
+very hard at this season, and the men do the heaviest part of the
+labour. At present they are engaged in fence making, usually here with
+bamboos, and very neatly they make them. It is very hot, fatiguing work
+for them in the broiling sun, but I suppose habit has so far become
+second nature with them, that they don’t seem to notice the heat or mind
+a little extra perspiration. The cool waters of the river always afford
+a grateful and refreshing anticipation when the work is once over.</p>
+
+<p>I amused myself with making a Cross to surmount the Communion table, and
+give a little more of a sacred nature to the Chancel of the Church. With
+my poor tools and limited necessaries at my disposal I flattered myself
+that I had done fairly well, and I afterwards attempted a picture
+gallery on the walls of my house, which has attracted all the boys in
+the village this evening, and they have taken more interest in these
+pictures than ever I have seen them before display. The launching of a
+life boat, and the English Bishops have been the chief attractions, and
+everyone, I think, has counted over the Bishops dozens of times. There
+being no one here in the afternoon I went alone to the river and enjoyed
+a refreshing bath. This evening it is blowing heavily, but there is a
+good moon and it is fine overhead. Instruction to the Catechumens, and
+the evening school finished a nice day.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 15th.</i>&mdash;After our morning duties here and breakfast I
+started with a party of four for Tasmouri. It had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100">{100}</a></span> rained a little
+during the night, and the bush was still wet this morning. The sun,
+however, shone out in Tropical brilliancy, and travelling was very
+unpleasant. The hottest time is just after a shower, and to-day proved
+no exception to the native idea on the subject. I don’t know when I have
+felt so hot and disinclined for exertion. However, the journey had to be
+made, and on I went somewhat mechanically. We arrived in due course at a
+rippling brook which the natives call “Na Marou,” and here we refreshed
+ourselves with its cooling waters and quaffed away our thirst. We
+rested, too, awhile, and then shouldering our impedimenta on we trudged
+again. The dense bush afforded a grateful shade generally, but every now
+and then we came out into the open glade, and we felt by experience for
+how much we were indebted to the shelter from the sun’s rays. Our next
+resting place was “Qaruqatu,” and then we were in a very liquid
+condition, and could gladly have lain down and given up further exertion
+for the day, but we were not half-way to our destination yet, and when
+we had cooled a bit we moved on to the village, where we found the “Uta”
+natives awaiting our arrival. They had prepared food for us and procured
+a good supply of coconuts, and we stopped for some time with them.
+However, the day was hastening on to-night, and we were driven to move
+on when we would willingly have sat on in idleness and inactivity. We
+started again for “Vanua garaqa” where the school house is, and there I
+found my friend and teacher “Takele,” whom I was going to Baptize on
+Sunday, and with whom I was anxious to have some previous conversation.
+He is a good man, and a staunch, and “Uta” owes him a great deal for his
+steadfast and consistent upholding of the Truth, and his fearless and
+bold protestations against evil. He had also food and coconuts ready for
+us, and I am afraid I went to sleep for a while, as the boys were
+refreshing the inner man. However, we were not yet at our journey’s end,
+and shouldering our traps, on we went again.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving Uta there is a very steep descent, really down the face of
+the cliff, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward.
+The road, however, is good, if somewhat precipitous, and my poor long
+shins ached again before I got to the bottom. Yet we did get to the
+bottom, and there we found a most lovely natural bathing place, the
+delight and comfort of which we were not long in testing. One can
+imagine how refreshing it must inevitably be to get off one’s dripping
+garments, and get under a cool and delicious shower-bath. I felt much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101">{101}</a></span>
+more “fit” when I got on my walking garments again and prepared for
+another advance towards Tasmouri, which I must say has never seemed so
+far and the journey towards it so fatiguing. We found Samuel and the
+Tasmouri people waiting from the village, and of course had food and
+drink in readiness for us. It was very cool and nice there, and being
+now near our destination we were not in a great hurry to move. Tasmouri,
+however, was reached towards evening, but oh! how hot the place is! a
+change of raiment scarcely mended matters, and I was soon almost as
+liquid as before. My evening meal made matters worse, and didn’t I long
+for a little grateful coolness? However, that seems an unknown quantity,
+and I gave up the idea of discovering it more here than anywhere else.
+Evensong followed in due course, and afterwards I had the Catechumen
+class for a short instruction. When these duties were over I was fit for
+bed, and this is the reason of the shortness and scantiness of my
+account of this day.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 16th.</i>&mdash;At Tasmouri. Most beautiful morning, but oh!
+so hot. Within doors it was absolutely unbearable, and I was glad when
+the people proposed to go to the seaside. The place selected was
+“Ron̈onawo,” and there it was bearably cool. A “Guardian” supplied me
+with companionship, and it proved to be so pleasant there that we spent
+most of the day, the boys bathing, fishing, and generally enjoying life,
+and I reading and seeking new names for the Baptismal Candidates. The
+heat again in the evening when we came home was very oppressive, and so
+great had it been in the house during the day that my candle I found all
+melted and doubled down in the candlestick.</p>
+
+<p>My dinner did not mend matters, but rather made the heat the hotter. I
+could not get cool for the life of me, and I had to grin and bear the
+discomfort. I do not know a much hotter place than Tasmouri and trust I
+never may, the wonder is how people live there at all. The fact I
+suppose is that the natives live very little within doors except at
+night, but during the day are engaged in their gardens, or otherwise
+enjoying the free and easy life to which they are the heirs by nature.
+It was intensely hot at Evensong, and oh! how one sighed for relief! An
+interesting Class with the Catechumens finished a pleasant day, on the
+whole, in spite of the heat. While we were at Evensong, and even while
+praying for her, one of the Christian young women, by name “Nesta,” was
+given a happy issue out of all her afflictions. She has been lying in a
+state ‘twixt life and death for more than two months,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102">{102}</a></span> and died this
+evening. She was one of the first baptized here, and a nice, clever girl
+she was, and a great favourite. The people asked me to bury her
+to-night, and I consented. About midnight the grave was finished, and I
+went with the people to the graveside. A weird, but picturesque scene it
+was, the moon in full splendour high up in the heavens, the blazing
+native torches casting a lurid glare upon the quiet figure of the dead,
+resting in her final bed and wrapped in native mats, the husband
+seemingly heart-broken, wailing beside the open grave, the women sobbing
+all around, myself with a lantern and vested in a surplice at the head
+of the grave, and the people all subdued and solemn around. I read the
+Burial Service, and when I came to “earth to earth,” “ashes to ashes,”
+“dust to dust,” Samuel threw on the earth according to custom, and at
+the end of the service we sang a funeral hymn, which sounded very solemn
+in the strange stillness of the night. I gave an address to the people,
+and words never seem to me more appropriate, and apposite than on this
+occasion. When I had finished my part of the service I came away, and
+left the grave diggers to their unenviable duty.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 17th.</i>&mdash;Most glorious morning and meltingly hot. We had
+school before breakfast, and I took a class of adult women. I was quite
+surprised at their readiness in the Church Catechism, which they said by
+heart from beginning to end. The Collect also they had got by heart and
+read with great facility. With the proficiency of the school generally I
+was amply satisfied, and teaching has evidently not been thrown away on
+the majority of the scholars. After breakfast we had Prayers, and the
+discomfort of the heat was not lessened by the hateful buzz and presence
+of the blue bottles. The service was hearty and comforting, however, and
+I asked the Catechumens to stay afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>With them I had a nice class, and was satisfied that they were in
+earnest. One man who has two wives, and has long held out against
+Baptism, has now given in and put away one of his wives. It is a
+peculiarly hard case, as he has children by both, and the women have
+both lived with him for a great number of years. Both offered to go, and
+gave him his free choice as to the one he chose to retain and which to
+banish. He chose the elder of the two, his first wife, and the other
+consequently left, but I could not help being sorry for them all, and at
+the earnest supplication of the divorced wife I admitted her and her
+young child to Holy Baptism. It was no inconsiderable pang to the
+husband to relinquish his second wife, and I could see that the
+sacrifice both<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103">{103}</a></span> he and she were making had cost them a great deal of
+suffering, but the rule is hard and fast, and I could not go beyond our
+invariable practice to admit a man with one wife only to the Rites of
+our Holy Church.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I Baptized seventeen people of all sizes, ages, and
+sexes, and Tasmouri now lays claim to the proud title of being the first
+entirely Christian village in Maewo. It has not now a single heathen
+member, and I thank God and take courage from the success which His Word
+has had here through His Grace, and to Him alone be the honour and
+glory.</p>
+
+<p>After the Baptism, and at the end of Evensong, I gave an address, and
+was listened to with marked attention, and I pray God my words may not
+have been spoken in vain. It was indeed to me an occasion of rejoicing
+in the Spirit, and I do not think I shall soon forget the reality and
+heartiness of that service. As I sat here in my house afterwards, all
+the newly Baptized came to bid me good-night, and the woman and child
+who were going into new quarters were not among the last or the least
+grateful for the events of the evening, for their present loss will be
+their eternal gain, and to have Jesus as Friend and Husband must
+compensate any one, with a grain of mustard-seed faith in their hearts,
+for the loss of husband and earthly father. None the less I could not
+help feeling sorry for the pretty, gentle creature who will begin
+henceforth a new and different life&mdash;this, of course, humanly speaking.
+I was very tired when the day was over, and everyone seemed glad that
+resting time had come.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, October 18th.</i>&mdash;Fine, indeed glorious day, but consequently
+very hot. According to standing custom here, I gave a whole holiday to
+the school and, we went for our usual picnic. The fatted pig was killed,
+and we all proceeded to Ron̈onawo to prepare it for dinner. The women
+did the cooking, the men lending ready and very efficient aid in getting
+and cutting firewood, &amp;c. A book gave me employment throughout the day,
+and there was a good deal to interest one going on. The scene was far
+from being unanimated and devoid of interest, and the day soon hastened
+on to its termination and natural darkness. The ovens were opened in due
+course, and disgorged their plentiful contents. After grace the food was
+distributed, and before long we were wending our way homewards.</p>
+
+<p>After Evensong a request was brought me that the people might have a
+dance, and of course I consented. There was not a very numerous company
+of dancers, but they kept up their energy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104">{104}</a></span> for an hour or two in a
+manner in which I should be very sorry to imitate them, and the result
+may be imagined in a place where the smallest movement throws you into a
+bath of perspiration. This evening appeared those mysterious things like
+seaworms. They only come about one night in the year, but the people not
+only know the very night of their appearance, but almost the very hour.
+When they are expecting them they get ready a peculiar kind of deep
+basket with a wide mouth, and long cane torches, and when these worms of
+the sea are observed, the people shovel them by handsful into their
+baskets, and great quantities are in this way taken. They are of course
+esteemed a great delicacy, and by cooking and re-cooking, they are kept
+for a very long time as an accompaniment to their different kinds of
+food. Their flavour is somewhat peculiar, but by no means disagreeable,
+and I can quite understand a native esteeming them a delicacy. Their
+wormy nature, I am afraid, gives me a false sentiment against their
+niceness. Considerable numbers were secured this evening, but the “haul”
+was said not to be a very successful one.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, October 19th.</i>&mdash;This morning we were early astir and getting
+ready for our homeward journey. We had Prayers and school and then
+breakfast, after which we put our traps together and prepared to start.
+The boat was coming for me, so that our first journey was to Tasmate,
+and no joke at that, hot as it was. However, we got there finally, and
+before the boat. It was very warm walking, and I was very liquid again
+by the time Tasmate was reached. While we were there waiting for the
+boat a big steamer passed Southwards. She had not the appearance of a
+man-of-war, but was too large to be down this way for no purpose. She
+was steaming fast and well, but looked to be rather battered and
+dilapidated. She appeared to have come from Fiji or from somewhere in
+that direction. Later on we saw her again up the coast, whither perhaps
+she may have gone for water. Our row homewards was terrible&mdash;the heat
+was simply awful and pelted down upon us piteously without a breath of
+wind. However, we got to our boat cove eventually, and hauled up our
+boat, and then, as night was drawing nigh, we prepared to start at once
+for Tanrig. We had scarcely got off before we were caught in a heavy
+thunderstorm, and the rain came down in torrents. The roads, always bad,
+were now fearful, and having a good deal of water before us to wade
+through I had taken off my shoes and socks. My feet were very sore when
+I got to Ruosi, where, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105">{105}</a></span> spite of present dripping condition, we all
+bathed, and we got home like drowned rats, to find that very little rain
+had fallen here. After tea and Evensong I was ready for bed, being very
+tired and foot-sore.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, October 20th.</i>&mdash;I was very glad of a good excuse for a
+thoroughly quiet day, and this was given me in a perfect downpour of
+rain, which continued without cessation until past midday, and I could
+not possibly get out. It cleared, however, in the evening, and I got out
+to church and to my Catechumen class, after which we had our usual
+secular singing. These Wednesday evenings are certainly looked forward
+to, but they do not satisfy me that much is taught by them. The people
+are very slow at picking up new things, and except occasionally are far
+from enthusiastic about the performance, yet I suppose they enjoy it or
+they would not attend in such numbers. I was perfectly inundated
+afterwards by people coming to wish me good-night. Shaking hands has
+become quite an institution here now, and you cannot meet or quit anyone
+except the process of hand grasping be gone through. However, it is a
+good step to the right direction and I give so much encouragement to it
+that my own arm runs the risk often of being wrung off.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, October 21st.</i>&mdash;Busy here all the morning, and having got
+very hot and tired with what I was doing, I came to get my towel to go
+for a bathe, when lo and behold, down came the rain in a perfect
+torrent, and I had to swallow my disappointment and stay at home.
+However, I started again at my picture gallery, and got a good deal
+done. I must try and finish it at some future time. It is a source of
+immense diversion to not a few, and some of the boys are never tired of
+coming to find out what the pictures mean. I was not very well all day,
+and after the Catechumen Class was very glad to retire for the night.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 22nd.</i>&mdash;Was very sick all the morning, and went to
+Ruosi to try and drown my cares in the river, but was only partially
+successful. Came back appetiteless to an uninviting dinner, and did not
+feel equal to much during the evening.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 23rd.</i>&mdash;Very busy all day with preparations for
+to-morrow. Anthony came to make final arrangements about his Candidates.
+Determined to go to “Naruru” for the ceremony. Was not well all day, and
+everything seemed a business. Final class with Catechumens.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106">{106}</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 24th.</i>&mdash;A very full but an exceptionally joyous day. We
+had school before breakfast, but that meal followed directly after. Then
+came Mattins. Then, followed by all the male population of Tanrig, I
+went to Naruru. The house there being very small I determined to have
+the Baptism out of doors. I would have gone to the river-side but it was
+too far. While Anthony and the others were getting ready the place and
+the Font, I said a few final words to the Candidates, who were already
+well prepared. Anthony’s wife was among the number, and a fine,
+intelligent young woman she is. There were nine Candidates in all, and
+the service was a very solemn and impressive one. It was the first time
+I had ever Baptized anyone in the open air, but a great deal of
+solemnity was not lost by it. The whole service went very nicely, and I
+hope the Candidates were fully alive to the importance and dignity of
+the occasion. When it was over I said a few words to the Congregation
+and Baptized, and soon after we hastened home, having another Baptism at
+Tanrig. During my absence A. P. Huqe had made a most chastely pretty
+Font, and brightened up the Church with flowers, &amp;c., until it looked
+quite charming. The Baptism took place in the evening, and seeing that
+there were as many as twenty-eight Candidates it was not a short
+service. It passed off very nicely, and I think made a great impression.
+I preached afterwards, and told them that this would be my final Baptism
+for some time to come, and urged them all to remember their Baptismal
+vows and to try and live more and more up to them, by the grace of God.
+Tanrig is now a Christian village, and the number Baptized here is
+considerably over a hundred. There are suburbs, however, which are still
+lying in comparative heathen darkness, and these we shall now have time,
+please God, to attack. There is much rejoicing here to-day, and a fresh
+start has again been made. I have Baptized thirty-seven people to-day,
+and I thank God and take courage.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, October 25th.</i>&mdash;General holiday, and great Christening Feast at
+Ruosi. All the world turned out from here, and we were joined by many
+from Naruru. Four large pigs were slaughtered, and a prodigious quantity
+of yams and taro prepared. It was a most lovely day, and the sunshine
+overhead seemed to have found its way into every heart, for there was
+the greatest harmony and good will manifest on all sides. Men and women
+shared the burden of the day alike, and the result in the evening was a
+most grand spread of perfectly cooked food, more than sufficient for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107">{107}</a></span>
+all the great number present. All shared alike, and the females had
+great junks of pork as well as the men. Formerly the women ate very
+little animal food, but now Christianity has broken down the middle wall
+of partition, and taught them that all are One in Christ. We came home
+in the evening, and dinnerless I had to go to bed with an attack of ague
+which lasted me far on into the hours of midnight. I did not go to
+Prayers, and indeed I don’t know what happened. There was a dance, I
+believe, but I didn’t hear anything of it.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, October 26th.</i>&mdash;Very weak and seedy all day&mdash;did not go out
+anywhere. However, I had lots of little things to do here at home, and I
+busied myself over them. Visitors from Uta came in the evening. The
+people told me they wanted to take away one of our women whose husband
+is just dead, but I refused and told them they had women enough already.
+They were very frightened I believe, and I don’t care, I trust they
+were, for I meant what I said. They are quite enough as they are to live
+and die in heathen darkness, while here the poor woman will have a
+chance at all events of hearing and living.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, October 27th.</i>&mdash;Beautiful day, but I was not particularly
+well to enjoy it. I was up betimes though, and got through our morning
+duties before breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps this is not a wise plan, but it is more convenient and therefore
+I submit to it. You certainly get leisure and quiet afterwards, which
+one would fail to secure previously to Prayers and school. I like to
+give the people every opportunity of getting away early to their
+gardens, and therefore, perhaps, I sacrifice myself. Many people could
+not stand this going without breakfast so long, but it is a meal I was
+never very hearty at, and the want of which very strangely I feel the
+least.</p>
+
+<p>Our “Bush” friends brought down some prints for sale this morning, and
+there has been a tremendous competition for them. There were six yards
+of Turkey red handkerchief stuff, which were finally bought by a young
+married lady, “Ann,” for a large pig. The Bushmen still go
+“clothesless,” and returned Labourers find a ready market here for their
+linen goods, which they bring home from Queensland or Fiji. Pigs are of
+much more value to them, for of course they still keep up the old native
+custom of purchasing rank by means of these animals, while here now they
+are only looked upon as so much meat. I have been long trying to get a
+proper hold on these people, but I cannot flatter myself that I have yet
+succeeded very far. They live a long distance off, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">{108}</a></span> the road is very
+inaccessible, but I trust in time they may be reached from hence. They
+are very amiable and very friendly, but they are somewhat terrified at
+anything new. However, they come here very often, and I don’t think they
+go away unprofited.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, October 28th.</i>&mdash;Fine day with strong fresh Trade wind
+blowing. I was busy all day here at home doing little odds and ends of
+things preparatory to my anticipated visit from Mrs. Selwyn. The people
+were all away busy at their gardens, and I was left alone most of the
+day. I could not find time to get to Ruosi, so I went without my
+customary dip in the river.</p>
+
+<p>The people were all back in the evening, and their lively chatter and
+merriment were a pleasing contrast to the ghostly stillness which had
+reigned throughout the day. We had Prayers late because the people were
+late with their dinner.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, October 29th.</i>&mdash;Not a very fine day, and threatening for rain.
+Directly after school the people were away to their gardens, but three
+or four boys were working for me here. They felt the slight shock of an
+earthquake, but I did not perceive it. The undivided opinion here is
+that earthquakes are the precursors of rain, and often indeed I have
+known it so to result, but it seems rather an extraordinary law to lay
+down. However, there are abundant signs of a no very distant downpour,
+and the prophets may have a chance of being right in their present
+conjecture. We were very busy all day, but towards evening snatched time
+enough to go to Ruosi for a bathe. The rain kept off well, but there was
+a sprinkle in the evening, and evident signs of a great deal more before
+very long. I have felt the heat here very oppressive for the last few
+days, and by the appearance of the sky we must soon have some dirty
+weather with thunder.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, October 30th.</i>&mdash;The storm came on us with a vengeance this
+morning at daylight, and kept on for a long time. At times the flashes
+and thunder peals seemed simultaneous, and the crashes were peculiarly
+heavy. I have never known a more severe storm in the Tropics, and as for
+the rain it simply poured down in torrents.</p>
+
+<p>I did not get up till late, and Mattins were later than usual. However,
+being a holiday it did not so much matter. In my house it was as dark as
+night, and all day it has been very sombre and dull. Rain has kept on
+continuously all the time, and it has been impossible to move out. The
+people, however, in spite of wet and dirt are up and about, and do not
+seem to mind the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109">{109}</a></span> weather. Many here, indeed, prefer the rain to the sun
+for making journeys and doing certain works. Rain does not seem to give
+them cold or ague, and I suppose that custom has become second nature.</p>
+
+<p>I could not get out all day except to my duties, and these wet days at
+home are somewhat trying, especially when you are anxious to be about.
+It was somewhat finer in the evening at Prayer time, and we had a good
+congregation, but it did pour down while we were at service, and this
+gave us a good excuse for a long singing practice.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, October 31st.</i>&mdash;Another wet and intensely disagreeable day.
+However, there were spells of fine weather, and during those we
+performed our duties. School came first with a full house, the elder
+classes saying the Collect for the day and the Church Catechism, and
+answering questions on the former, the juniors reading from school books
+and large printed sheets. When school was over I was quite prepared for
+breakfast, and eschewed rice for once in a way for prawns which the boys
+brought me. Sometime after breakfast we had Mattins, a very nice service
+and especially well attended. I experienced much distress of mind from
+the illness of my friend “Virelumlum,” the Opa chief who came over with
+me. He has been very ill all day with acute inflammation of the lungs,
+and we have had to keep hot water applications going, off and on, all
+day. He moans for home, too, and there is no chance of getting him
+there. While at Opa, A. P. Huqe was so ill, and here now I have my other
+visitor a patient on my hands. In the evening I was down myself with
+ague and could not go to Church, and had no dinner.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, November 1st.</i>&mdash;Terribly stormy, rough night, and a most
+unpleasant day, the disagreeableness of which was not decreased by the
+continued serious illness of my visitor Virelumlum. All day yesterday
+and again to-day it has been a continual anxiety and care to me, and I
+have been dabbling about in the mud and wet dancing attendance upon him.
+He has quite a serious attack of inflammation of the lungs, and I have
+had to keep hot flannels going almost continuously, and rack my brains
+to find out what to give him to keep up his rapidly decreasing strength.
+In addition to his sickness he has developed a craving for home, and a
+strong impression that he is going to die here, which with natives
+sometimes is actually equivalent to mean that they will not recover, and
+when a native makes up his mind to die, he in most cases does die. There
+is no remote possibility of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110">{110}</a></span> getting my friend home in such weather as
+we are having, and he is killing himself with worry. If the weather were
+fine I would willingly take him across to Opa in my boat, but that is
+scarcely possible in a gale of wind and a downpour of rain. On the whole
+it has been a most anxious and unpleasant day. Being “All Saints’<span class="lftspc">”</span> Day I
+gave an address in the evening instead of School, and no one, I fancy,
+was sorry to be indoors out of the cold and wet. I had to paddle off
+after every one was quietly within doors to feed my patient and make him
+comfortable for the night.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, November 2nd.</i>&mdash;A most terrible night, wherein it blew with
+almost hurricane violence in the squalls, with a perfect deluge of rain
+accompanied by heavy thunder and lightning. I was not sorry or
+ungrateful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. My
+first business when I got up, was to trudge off to my patient, whom,
+thank God, I found better, but all day long since I have had to look
+after him, for he is no exception to the idiocy of all natives, who when
+they feel a bit better, rush off and do some extraordinarily foolish
+thing. It was a terrible day throughout, and I was so fortunate in
+keeping my man within doors, that this evening he was visibly on the
+mend, and likely to make a good and I hope a rapid recovery. I read him
+a most strong lecture this morning about his craving for home, and told
+him he could not possibly get there in this weather, and that he was
+better where he was even if he could. I said he never would recover if
+he went on distressing himself about getting home, and told him that he
+was killing me too, by continually crying for what he could not possibly
+obtain. And what a lot of spilt milk I have cried over these last few
+days in my regret at having brought a big man here at all. But the
+inutility of weeping is more apparent to me than his crying for home is
+to him. I can hardly say what I have done to-day either to benefit
+anyone else or myself. This evening I have turned away from my dinner,
+leaving it untasted, and I feel that I must go to bed.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, November 3rd.</i>&mdash;An attack of ague last night has made me
+feel weak and good for nothing this morning. However, I had to get up,
+and the prospect outside was as dismal as ever. Rain and wind and
+gloominess. My patient, thank God, is most decidedly better, and if he
+takes care of himself will do very well now. I have had a fire in my
+house all day, and with Dr. Codrington’s book on the Melanesian
+languages, have got on very pleasantly. I should like, however, to see a
+little sunshine, and one has a right to expect it now in the height of
+summer. I am<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111">{111}</a></span> dreadfully afraid Mrs. Selwyn’s visit to me will be
+impossible, when the ship arrives the roads will be so impassable.
+Towards evening it cleared a bit and I was able to move out, but
+generally speaking, everyone has been kept close prisoner to-day. The
+people who always seem to me to love paddling about in the wet,
+expressed a strong disinclination to move from their houses, and in the
+absence of other occupation or amusement, have been asleep most of the
+day I fancy. A native’s capacity for sleep is unbounded, and perhaps a
+fortunate thing for him, but he can wake at any time, day or night, and
+get up straight away. We had our usual Evensong and singing class, the
+weather keeping fairer until we had all got indoors again in our several
+houses, when down came the rain. There is a sweet, lulling, comfortable
+sound in rain when you are safe indoors, or perchance in bed, and sleep
+seems to come unwooed. I practice here what I seldom do anywhere else,
+read in bed, and far on in the stillness of the solemn night, I read on
+and on with keen enjoyment and a sense of rest, for one gets tired of
+sitting in a land devoid of easy chairs and sofas. The usual posture of
+a native is to squat on his heels or else to recline, naturally our high
+seats are foreign and uncanny to them. I cannot myself squat for any
+length of time, and at times I sigh for the comfort of a good easy
+chair.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, November 4th.</i>&mdash;Very wet, dispiriting morning, and
+threatening for another stormy day. It cleared off, however, and barring
+showers we have had a fine day.</p>
+
+<p>A most interesting ceremony took place here to-day called “uli meroana,”
+(<i>i.e.</i> “untieing war.”) The event ought to have come off long ago, but
+the chief actors in the sad drama which led to its necessity have been
+somewhat dilatory. Sometime since the natives of “uta” (the inland as
+distinguished from the shore) attacked a village in our district and
+killed three people. They were the agressors and the sole actors&mdash;the
+people did nothing but pack up their goods and clear out, some flying in
+one direction and some in another. The majority took refuge in this part
+of the island and have never done anything in the way of retaliation,
+but have always gone armed since and been on the alert, not with the
+object of revenging their injuries, but from fear of further attack.</p>
+
+<p>However, thank God, all has been quiet since, and the Uta people have
+the fire coals so heavily heaped on their head, that being first in
+agression they have been the first to make amends. They came down
+yesterday in great numbers, all armed, of course,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112">{112}</a></span> and bringing three
+pigs with them. Our people were all present too, very fully armed, and
+also bringing three pigs. The chief man on the Uta side and the attacker
+stood out in the open with his pig, and the chief among the injured
+stepped out, and walking around the pig took it from the other, first
+passing his hand over the pig’s back and head and the rope he was held
+with, and then delivering the scape pig to the injured. This was done
+thrice, <i>i.e.</i> with each several pig. Then the ceremony was changed to
+our side and the like performance gone through, and the pigs delivered
+one by one to the attackers. There was thus a mutual exchange and no one
+was the loser, indeed so far from it that had the pigs been made for the
+occasion and cast in the same mould, they could scarcely have been more
+of a size, shape, and colour. It would seem, according to our ideas, as
+if the aggressors ought to have paid all the pigs without receiving any
+in exchange, but no, native custom seems to be different, and a fair
+exchange must be made. After the pigs had been delivered, there was some
+speechifying and a good deal of after talkey-talkey, and the quondam
+enemies became the best of friends. I hope they will continue so, I am
+sure, and I think they will. I made a little speech, in which I
+glorified peace and good-will, and denounced fighting and bloodshed. I
+have never seen such a concourse of people in Maewo, certainly, and the
+place perfectly bristled with guns and poisoned arrows. The natives,
+although they seem somewhat careless with these weapons, are really very
+careful, and an accident seldom or never happens through carelessness. I
+do not like the poisoned arrows, and keep clear always of them, for the
+smallest prod from one would most probably prove fatal. Very soon the
+vast concourse had dispersed, and the pigs, the mediators, were escorted
+off to their new places of residence, but I do not fancy they felt the
+weight of the aggressor’s repentance, or the forgiveness of the
+attacked. A small coal of inward anger would very soon kindle again the
+blaze of war, for after all I fancy there is not much love lost between
+the two parties. With one of my Opa boys I came back here to get my
+towels, and then made a start for Ruosi and Kerepei, being anxious to
+bathe, and also to see the road the boys have made for Mrs. Selwyn’s
+feet to tread in. I must say after my observation of it, that if her
+anticipated visits everywhere have the same effect of causing people to
+mend their ways, she may well be satisfied with her trip down here. The
+road was not good before, neither is it perfect now, but the boys have
+certainly made a most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113">{113}</a></span> passable track, the question is whether a lady
+can manage the first steep climb. In anticipation of this, they have
+strained a strong climbing reed, like the rail of a balustrade, and by
+this it is hoped she may be able to ascend. The road otherwise is now
+very good. A delicious bath at Ruosi was made doubly delicious by some
+days’ privation, and my present liquid condition.</p>
+
+<p>We got home here in the evening, and I dined very late, but with much
+more of an appetite than I have had for some time. In the evening A. P.
+Huqe being laid up, I gave an address at Evensong, instead of school.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, November 5th.</i>&mdash;The glorious 5th November, Guy Fawkes, of
+unhappy memory! Very wet night, but fairly fine day. People very busy
+to-day, so they asked me to relinquish school, which I did. I made
+preparations for photographing a pretty part of the river, but the rain
+came down and I had to give it up. However, my dry plates are at an end,
+and the few I have left I must keep for a peradventure of something good
+before I leave.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Saturday, November 6th.</i>&mdash;Squally, unsettled sort of day, after a very
+rough night. Great preparations were being made here in the morning, for
+the Bishop’s and Mrs. Selwyn’s advent. When it was done I went with the
+boys to Ruosi, where I sat and watched their sports and gambols in the
+water, and thought how the one touch of nature makes the whole world
+kin. Human nature and boy nature is the same everywhere, and these boys
+are just like every other boy except in colour. They had a great spur of
+fun and frolic, and boy-like pleasure produced no languor or
+tediousness. I made a descent to “Wosawosa,” and looked in vain for the
+ship.</p>
+
+<p>Back and dined, and everything as usual.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Sunday, November 7th.</i>&mdash;The Mission schooner arrived with all on board
+well. After Morning Prayer I went down to the vessel, but it was too
+dirty for Mrs. Selwyn to come up to the village, but in the evening Mr.
+Cullwick came back to Tanrig and spent the night with me. The account of
+the work in the islands farther North, was very cheering, and it had a
+fresh and charming meaning, as told by Mrs. Selwyn in the full
+enthusiasm of her first voyage into these new but beautiful regions. The
+evening services in our little native Church was a sad and solemn one,
+for I said my public farewell to the people, in prospect of my leaving
+them for a long time, inasmuch as it was decided for me to go to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114">{114}</a></span>
+England. Mr. Cullwick was very much struck with the beauty of the
+service, and the devotion of the worshippers. When we bid them “Good
+night” they all said, “Ah! this will be the last good night for a long,
+long time.”</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Monday, November 8th.</i>&mdash;The Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn came to stay with me
+at Tanrig. It was fortunately a most beautiful day, and Mrs. Selwyn,
+partly carried and partly on foot, made the journey without any great
+fatigue. Of her visit, she herself no doubt will write.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Tuesday, November 9th.</i>&mdash;We stood across to Opa, distant about
+twenty-five miles from this part of Maewo. The people were in floods of
+tears at the final parting, and a general wail went up from all, as the
+boat drew off from the shore. At Opa we anchored for the night.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Wednesday, November 10th.</i>&mdash;The Bishop and I were rowed ashore early,
+and examined the school at Lotahimamavi. This is as yet in embryo, but
+the people were very nice and most friendly, and seemed quite in earnest
+about their school duties. A proper school house has yet to be built,
+but this they have undertaken to do as soon as they have dug their yams.
+Their yam digging answers to our harvest. Leaving this place we went on
+board the <i>Southern Cross</i> to breakfast, and afterwards to examine the
+school at Tavolavola. The Bishop was much pleased with the state of this
+school, and the great proficiency attained to by some of the young
+scholars. Prizes of knives, calico, beads, fish-hooks, &amp;c., were
+distributed and then we went to Lobaha, another school. Before leaving
+Tavolavola, Mrs. Selwyn was anxious to see how the natives got up the
+coconut trees. There are no branches of course, to hold on to, and many
+natives tie a cord around their feet, and some use an ingenious
+arrangement with cord for their hands. But these natives go up hand over
+hand without any help or assistance. The lad in question was up the
+tree, had thrown down green coconuts, and descended again with wonderful
+and astonishing rapidity, with nothing on his hands or feet.</p>
+
+<p>Before we got to Lobaha it began to rain heavily, and I was overtaken
+with a fit of ague, and had to lie shivering on the beach while the
+Bishop went alone to examine the school. It poured in torrents all the
+way home, and I was very miserable.</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Thursday, November 11th.</i>&mdash;Away early from Opa and started for Araga,
+distant over twenty miles from this part of Opa.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115">{115}</a></span> There the school was
+examined, and we left in the evening for the South end of the island.
+This we reached on</p>
+
+<p class="lnspc"><i>Friday, November 12th</i>, the Bishop going ashore in a strong gale of
+wind, and in pelting rain, to examine the school and bring off Mr.
+Brittain, who had been spending some days there. They were not long
+before both were on board, and Mr. Brittain, thank God, quite well.</p>
+
+<p>When the boat was hauled up we stood out to sea, and so on our homeward
+journey for Norfolk Island, which we reached after a stormy but quick
+passage on November 18th, and found all well at home. “Praise thou the
+Lord Oh! my soul, and forget not all His benefits.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116">{116}</a></span>”</p>
+
+<h2><a name="Rev_A_BRITTAIN" id="Rev_A_BRITTAIN"></a><span class="smcap">Rev.</span> A. BRITTAIN.</h2>
+
+<p>For the year 1886 my contribution will be concerned with the time
+between April 3rd and November 18th. On the former date the <i>Southern
+Cross</i> left Norfolk Island on the first trip of the year, and on the
+latter we reached it again at the end of our voyaging season. I had
+never before left for the islands on the first voyage, but our plans
+gave me a longer stay than usual. My own island, Araga, was to take up
+the usual time, but I was to make a stay also in the Bank’s Islands,
+which would be out of the ordinary course. As it turned out, however,
+the arrangements were of necessity altered, and no stay was made in the
+Bank’s Islands.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Southern Cross</i> left Norfolk Island with a wind very strong, but
+altogether fair. None of the regular Araga boys were on board, as they
+were to return home on the second voyage, according to our plan. One
+lad, however, we had with us, whose presence in the <i>Southern Cross</i> was
+quite out of the ordinary course. The explanation concerning him will
+show something of the individual efforts made in various places to give
+some sort of instruction to those who are taken from our islands to work
+on the plantations and elsewhere. On the whole they are simply
+neglected, with the result that they return home having learnt almost
+all the vices, and none whatever of the virtues, of the white man.
+Personal interest has in some cases induced thought and work for their
+benefit. In Sydney was one instance of this. The visit of a young lady
+to Norfolk Island on the occasion of the Consecration of the Memorial
+Chapel increased her interest in the Mission, and on her return to
+Sydney she sought some kindred work. A class was established for natives
+from the islands engaged in different kinds of work in the city, and it
+has proved most successful. Several of the lads are from our own
+islands, and as it has happened that the Bishop has been in Sydney at
+convenient times, he has twice held Baptisms of members of the Class.
+One of these Baptized lads made a request that he might<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117">{117}</a></span> be taken home
+in the <i>Southern Cross</i>. His home was Araga, and he came to Norfolk
+Island in readiness for the first voyage of the <i>Southern Cross</i>. It was
+apparently five or six years since he had been taken away in a labour
+vessel to Noumea, whence he had found it possible to make a move to
+Sydney. And this was the end of his life in foreign countries&mdash;he was
+returning home a Christian, with, in some respects, a surprising
+knowledge, with a perfectly good character from all who knew him, and
+with a great desire to do something for the benefit of his
+fellow-countrymen. All that had hitherto been done in Araga is in the
+northern part of the island, the remainder of the island being partially
+known only, while the extreme southern end was quite unknown and
+inaccessible. The lad, Thomas Rorsal, gave us to understand that his
+village was right in the south, close to the neighbouring island of
+Ambrym, and we had then the prospect of breaking into new parts.</p>
+
+<p>On April 8th, that is on the fifth day from Norfolk Island, we were in
+the passage between Araga and Ambrym. A boat was lowered, Tom’s
+belongings placed in it, and we pulled in shore to find his village,
+which he could not distinguish from the vessel. A clump of cocoa-nuts
+was recognised by him, and at last we pulled into a good sandy beach
+with very good landing, where a crowd had already collected for our
+reception. Their returning brother was at once recognised, and his goods
+shouldered with great readiness. The Bishop’s bad foot forbade his
+leaving the boat, but I landed and went up with the people to their
+village, which was quite close at hand, though invisible from the beach
+owing to the very thick bush. Tom had previously expressed his
+determination to build a house for school purposes as soon as possible,
+and I, through him, told the people of our plans and something of what
+we hoped to do among them. We thereupon, in consequence of the readiness
+they expressed, chose a convenient site for the house, and I promised to
+make a boat voyage to them as soon as I could conveniently get away from
+the northern district. It was evident that there could not be a great
+population in the immediate neighbourhood, as there was only a small
+level tract lying off the beach, backed up by somewhat high hills, which
+would doubtless form a separate district from the beach villages.</p>
+
+<p>On the next day, the 9th, we arrived at the north end of the island,
+having been almost becalmed on the way thither. The <i>Southern Cross</i>
+anchored, my belongings were put together, and in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118">{118}</a></span> two or three hours I
+landed at the usual place, and was at home again at Qatvenua. It was not
+a bright reception&mdash;the unusual quietness all about, the absence of the
+usual vociferous greetings, and the depressed looks of the teachers were
+not enlivening, and it was easily seen that there were unpleasant
+tidings to be heard. Gradually all became known. With regard to the
+chief school at Qatvenua the report was altogether favourable. It had
+decidedly advanced. Several outside adults, who had hitherto kept aloof
+from us, had come forward and joined themselves to our congregation, and
+the ordinary work had proceeded quite satisfactorily. But the other two
+schools in the district had met with interruptions, and one was in a
+state of temporary suspense. The cause of all was the fruitful source of
+trouble to us, the labour vessel. Some short time before one had visited
+that part, and a party of men and lads, almost entirely baptized or
+scholars, had departed in her. It was all to be put down to one man who
+had been of some importance. He had done wrong, and to avoid the
+retribution that in some form or other would have fallen upon him, he
+decided to leave the place, and then persuaded some of these men to
+accompany him, and the rest followed them. Amongst them was the teacher
+who had been in charge of the school at Lamoru, whose going was a great
+surprise, as he had always been so quiet and well-conducted. Fortunately
+his helpers were able to continue the school work by themselves without
+any intermittence. At the other place, Vathuqe, the school was closed
+for a time, as there was no one to take the erring teacher’s place. He
+had been left there with some misgivings, as he was not of equal
+standing with the teachers generally, but it was thought that his zeal
+and expressed desire for the post would be equal to the demand made upon
+his steadfastness. Some of the others that embarked were his relatives,
+and so he had the unusual temptation before him, and gave way to it.</p>
+
+<p>My first fortnight on shore was spent at Qatvenua. The landing was done
+in very unfavourable weather. It rained very heavily, and the very steep
+path leading up to the school village, bad enough in fine weather, was
+extremely troublesome for carrying up my goods and chattels, and they
+got very wet. My own little house was not in good condition, and until
+we repaired it I slept in the large boys’ house.</p>
+
+<p>Within a day or two we pulled some little distance down the coast to a
+small bay, where I heard some white man had been recently buried. We saw
+his grave, with an inscription, and in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119">{119}</a></span> time I heard the story of his
+death. No outrage on labour vessels has been made or attempted in Araga
+for several years, but in January, as it appeared, when a vessel from
+Samoa was visiting some place about thirty miles down the coast, one man
+was shot by a native as he was on shore with several others from the
+vessel bathing. It must be said that this man, a German, showed a great
+lack of wisdom in his behaviour. The native had come down some distance
+from the hills under the impression that his two wives, who had
+disappeared, were on board the vessel then to be seen lying at anchor,
+and in his rage the man was shot, while all the time the women were
+elsewhere. The body was brought up along the coast, and buried near our
+station. The whole affair had caused much excitement, even at the
+Northern end of the island. Some time after the place was visited by a
+German man-of-war, with results that will be spoken of further on.</p>
+
+<p>The great man to the South, Viradoro, expressed his continued desire for
+us to do something in his part, and we visited him several times, and
+were well received and listened to always. There is a lad at Norfolk
+Island who has connections with this place, and when they make a
+beginning at a school-house we may begin work with him as teacher, but I
+decline to put him there, as they desire, before this is done. Within a
+fortnight of my going ashore two labour vessels anchored near us, one
+from New Caledonia, and the other from Fiji. In the latter there
+departed a young son, quite a small boy, of Viradoro’s, whom I had hoped
+to take to Norfolk Island some time or other. His father was greatly put
+out by his being taken away.</p>
+
+<p>I had decided to remain at Qatvenua until Good Friday, and then to go on
+to Tanrig in Maewo for Easter. There are several communicants there, and
+I should have taken the Araga communicants with me that we might have
+our Easter Communion together. During the whole of Holy Week the weather
+was bad, and I feared that our voyage would not be practicable. On the
+Saturday, when we should have left, there was a strong wind blowing from
+the North, which would have been dead against us, with continuous rain,
+and there was no possibility of our going. Our Easter, however, was very
+pleasant, and the joyful hymns told of really joyful Christian hearts.</p>
+
+<p>In Easter week we left for my first visit to Wonor, the village at the
+Southern end where we had put Rorsal ashore. My intention and
+arrangements for going there caused much talk. The distance would be
+nearly forty miles, and I suppose no one<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120">{120}</a></span> had been more than half that
+distance down the coast, and it was thought to be a very long journey.
+More talked of even than the distance, however, was the belief that
+attaches itself to a particular place at the extreme Southern end. To
+this place were supposed to go all the spirits of the departed, and to
+remain there in some sort of community. Of all places in Araga,
+therefore, it is the one of the greatest superstitious interest and
+fear, and many of my chosen boat’s crew’s relatives did their best to
+dissuade them from accompanying me, but without effect. We started on
+the appointed day, and as I knew we could not do the whole distance in
+one day, as we went along the coast we made several calls at the
+villages as they appeared, and fixed upon one not quite half-way, known
+to some of the men, in which to pass the night. Our various stoppages,
+however, so delayed us, that it became clear that we should not reach
+our destination before night, and so when, upon rounding a point, we
+came upon a labour vessel quietly at anchor, and were hospitably invited
+on board for the night, I thought it wise to take advantage of it. It
+was a Fijian vessel with a number of men on board, lately recruited, and
+a Government agent whom I had met before. We passed the night quietly at
+least, though not comfortably for any of us, and pulled away in the
+morning, very grateful for the hospitality shown to us, and resumed our
+journey. The evening found us ashore at Wonor, where there was
+considerable excitement over our landing. Although the place is quite
+open to the prevailing Trade wind, a reef and a sand bank that lie off
+the shore shelter it quite effectually, and make the landing on the
+shelving beach easy and pleasant. In the fortnight that had elapsed
+since our calling here only a little had been done towards building the
+school-house. The site was cleared of all its timber, and some of the
+posts were ready. During our stay we had therefore to sleep in the men’s
+common house, which, being much smaller than is usual in the northern
+part of the island, we found rather inconvenient. On the whole our visit
+of a week was a great success, and it excited much interest. The house
+was proceeded with with great vigour, and all the people in the district
+showed a very friendly spirit, making things look bright and promising
+for the future. Thomas was doing all he could in the way of teaching,
+and his Scripture Picture Books were all well thumbed. I confined my
+doings to the immediate neighbourhood, and saw but little of the
+adjacent country, though the report of our sojourn caused people to come
+from a great distance to Wonor,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121">{121}</a></span> and they were very desirous of being
+visited. My boat’s crew were thoroughly well treated, and feasted to a
+great extent, and our entertainers did us the honour of dancing to us
+one evening. I had not intended to make a long stay this time, and
+having made some arrangements in the North, which required my presence,
+we left at the appointed time, in spite of the pressing invitation for a
+longer stay. Our return journey was accomplished with a little
+difficulty. The ordinary winds would have taken us back pleasantly in a
+day, but we fell in with a contrary wind halfway up the coast, and were
+delayed. Some time after night-fall we decided to land at a village then
+quite close, but the tide being out the reef was uncovered, and not
+wishing to have the boat injured we continued on our way, and at last
+reached our own beach, after very hard pulling, two or three hours
+before the dawn of the new day. It was not surprising that some of the
+lads should be knocked up for a time after this, but it was thought to
+be quite in accordance with the character of the place visited, that
+they were all, one after the other, laid up for varying periods. It did
+really seem peculiar that it should so happen at this particular time,
+when so much was being said about the superstition connected with the
+southern part.</p>
+
+<p>After this there was a month’s stay at the two Northern schools. At
+Lamoru a new house was built, larger and in better style than the old
+one which had seen the beginning of the work, and new arrangements were
+made concerning the teaching staff. At Qatvenua also repairs were made
+to the various buildings, and a boat-house, sufficient for the purpose,
+but not of any great size or beauty, was erected on the beach. The whole
+of this time was more or less wet, and there was much sickness all
+through the district. The infants suffered most, and very many died,
+several being children of our congregations. A girl also died, one of
+the two belonging to this place who had been to Norfolk Island. She had
+been declining for about a year, and my attempts to improve her health
+failed. Her lengthened sickness tried the patience of her friends
+greatly, and it was suggested once or twice by relatives that her end
+should be hastened. By these who made this suggestion it was of course
+believed that the illness was due to some unfriendly person’s charms,
+who would be rejoicing at seeing her suffering. One of our Catechumens
+lost his only child, a very engaging little boy, and his account of how
+he prayed that it might recover, and how he felt when death came, and
+his prayer seemed to be in vain, was very touching. This child he had
+been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122">{122}</a></span> in the habit of bringing frequently for me to see, and when I once
+gave him some beads for it, he was delighted. These, he told me
+afterwards, he had buried with him.</p>
+
+<p>On June 5 the <i>Southern Cross</i> returned to me again from the Northern
+islands, and I went on board to be put on shore at Wonor. It was my
+intention to go there to stay until the vessel’s return again from the
+South, which would be in about six weeks’ time. Two boys were to
+accompany me for the stay, and I took my boat. We could not land until
+the next day, after spending an unpleasant night on board. On pulling
+in, the school-house appeared well on to completion, showing that they
+had been working well at it since my last visit. It was not possible yet
+to sleep in it, so I spread my rug again in the men’s house, but we
+assembled the people together in the school-house for such instruction
+and talking as were found possible. A large party of Ambrym men was
+weather-bound here. Their home was plainly visible, about seven or eight
+miles distant, but across a very disturbed passage. They had already
+been here ten days, and were anxious to return. They had a sorrowful
+tale to tell. A short time before they had come over from Ambrym to go
+on an ordinary bartering expedition along our coast, and when the German
+man-of-war, the Albatross, mentioned above, arrived to avenge the death
+of the man who was killed in the beginning of the year, they happened to
+be at the very place. Naturally they thought themselves quite safe from
+any attack, and sat quietly on the beach awaiting the arrival of the
+boat. They all knew that the culprit was in a village two or three miles
+away on the hills, and they were prepared to assist in punishing him.
+Suddenly however, without any warning, they were fired upon more than
+once from some of the big guns of the ship. They at once fled in great
+fear, and did not know until the evening, when they ventured out of the
+bush again, what had been the result of the firing. One poor fellow had
+part of one leg blown away, and was found lying in great agony. A day or
+two after he died. Having thus fired and cleared the place of all
+people, a large number of men went ashore from the man-of-war, and
+succeeded in killing a few pigs, and in burning down the large men’s
+house of the place, which belonged to perfectly innocent and unconcerned
+people. Such a proceeding is not calculated to induce in the people any
+thoughts either of the justice or of the courage of the white man. It
+was a very weary time for them while waiting at Wonor, before reaching
+home to tell of their missing brother, and it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123">{123}</a></span> not pleasant for the
+people of Wonor, as the vessel had picked up two lads of the place as
+guides, and they were on board when the firing occurred.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of spending six weeks at this place we spent only ten days. They
+were busy days, as we all worked at the house, and as I could not get
+about very much to the neighbouring villages, I had to content myself
+with talking to the people as they came about us. It soon became evident
+that my two boys from the North were very home-sick. One I discovered
+sitting in the dark one evening crying, and although they said nothing I
+could see what they wished. I therefore decided to return with them, and
+after some little difficulty got a crew together. We started on a not
+very promising morning, but did not go far before the hearts of the
+Wonor men failed them entirely. There was a good breeze blowing, and
+some sea on, and the prospect of a long journey before them, and they
+formally requested to be allowed to return. It would have been very
+awkward to get back in the boat, as both wind and sea were dead against
+us, so I decided to put them ashore at a convenient spot, and continued
+the journey with the two boys. We had a fair wind, but rain commenced
+and continued at intervals all through the day. At last we reached our
+destination as evening came on, and never was home more welcome. Our
+wonderful journey, as it was thought, with only three in the boat,
+caused much talk. Had the wind failed us we should have been in a great
+difficulty, but as it was we did the forty miles without much labour. I
+hoped to be able to get a crew together, and to go South again to
+complete my stay, but we were over-ruled. Three or four days after
+reaching Qatvenua the place was greatly disturbed on hearing that a
+large canoe, which had left Maewo with Araga people in it more than a
+week before, had not been seen or heard of. They were either drowned or
+had been blown over to Opa. After a day or two more of suspense I
+decided to go to Opa to enquire. It was a relief to everybody when we
+started, and the people at home rejoiced greatly when they saw our
+signal fires in the evening to let them know that we had found the
+missing ones. It was so&mdash;they had been blown away from Araga, and could
+do nothing but steer for Opa. We remained there one night, and a Trader
+who lives there kindly gave the hospitality, and next day we started on
+our return with some of the canoe crew. A night had to be spent on the
+way at Maewo, but early the next morning we reached home. This was on
+Friday, and on the evening of the next day I commenced to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124">{124}</a></span> unwell,
+and continued so for three weeks. All plans came to nought, as I found
+it impossible to get rid of the ague and consequent fever, and only now
+and then could I manage to rise at all. The arrival of the <i>Southern
+Cross</i> on July 17 was therefore very welcome, and I went on board at
+once. All plans as regards the Bank’s Islands had to be given up, and
+instead of my staying for a time in Mr. Palmer’s district at Mota and
+Motalav, as I had anticipated with great pleasure, I was forced to see
+the wisdom of remaining on board for the voyage up to the Solomon
+Islands. Much of great interest occurred during the voyage, but the
+greatest event was a visit we paid to Nukapu, where the Memorial cross
+for Bishop Patteson had been erected two years previously. It was found
+to be well cared for, the people were more than friendly, were most
+hospitable, and there are bright hopes of something being done ere long
+in the place where the Martyr’s death occurred.</p>
+
+<p>I improved so much during the trip that on our arrival in the New
+Hebrides again, I decided to continue my stay in Araga. I was on shore
+therefore again from September 14 to November 12, and all the places
+were visited, and I was no more hindered by bad health. Wonor advanced
+most satisfactorily: my later visit found the house completed and quite
+fit to sleep in, and I saw much of the surrounding districts and people.
+At Lamoru we had the only adult Baptism of the year&mdash;five men were
+Baptized after much preparation and a long time of trial. November 18
+found us again off Norfolk Island, and the Island Voyages were a thing
+of the past for 1886.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="c"><small>
+NETHERTON AND WORTH, PRINTERS, TRURO.</small></p>
+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journal of Residence in the New
+Hebrides, S.W. Pacific Ocean, by C. Bice and A. Brittain
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