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diff --git a/old/62501-0.txt b/old/62501-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1d75826..0000000 --- a/old/62501-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18482 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia, by -Richard Nicklin Hall - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia - An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on - behalf of the government of Rhodesia - -Author: Richard Nicklin Hall - -Release Date: June 27, 2020 [EBook #62501] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GREAT ZIMBABWE, MASHONALAND, RHODESIA *** - - - - -Produced by MFR, Robert Tonsing, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -[Illustration: THE CONICAL TOWER, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE, GREAT ZIMBABWE] - - - - - GREAT ZIMBABWE - MASHONALAND, RHODESIA - - AN ACCOUNT OF TWO YEARS’ EXAMINATION - WORK IN 1902–4 ON BEHALF OF THE - GOVERNMENT OF RHODESIA - - BY - R. N. HALL, F.R.G.S. - CO-AUTHOR WITH W. G. NEAL OF “THE ANCIENT RUINS OF RHODESIA” - - - WITH AN INTRODUCTION - BY - PROFESSOR A. H. KEANE, LL.D., F.R.G.S. - - WITH TWO HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS, MAPS, AND PLANS - - METHUEN & CO. - 36 ESSEX STREET W.C. - LONDON - - _First Published in 1905_ - - - - - CONTENTS - - - DEDICATION _Page_ xiii - - PREFACE xv - - INTRODUCTION, by Professor A. H. Keane, LL.D., F.R.G.S. xxxi - - CHAPTER I - Arrival at Great Zimbabwe—First Impressions—View from Acropolis - Hill 1 - - CHAPTER II - Mystic Zimbabwe—Sunday Morning and Midnight in an Ancient - Temple—Sunset on the Acropolis 12 - - CHAPTER III - A day at Havilah Camp, Zimbabwe 31 - - CHAPTER IV - Zimbabwe District—Chipo-popo Falls—Frond Glen—Lumbo - Rocks—“Morgenster” Mission—Wuwulu—Mojejèje, or Mystic - Bar—Suku Dingle—Bingura’s Kraal—Motumi’s Kraal—Chipfuko - Hill—Chipadzi’s Kraal 51 - - CHAPTER V - Zimbabwe Natives—Natives and the Ruins—Natives (general) 80 - - CHAPTER VI - Relics and Finds, Great Zimbabwe, 1902–4 102 - - CHAPTER VII - Notes on Ancient Architecture at - Zimbabwe—Introduction—Durability of - Walls—Dilapidations—Makalanga Walls—Remains of Native Huts - found in Ruins—Passages—Entrances and Buttresses 135 - - CHAPTER VIII - Notes on Ancient Architecture at Zimbabwe - (_continued_)—Drains—Battering of Walls—Soapstone Monoliths - and Beams—Granite and Slate Beams—Cement—Dadoes—Built-up - crevices—Holes in Walls other than Drains—Blind - Steps—Platforms—Ancient Walls at a Distance from Main - Walls—Caves and Rock Holes 168 - - CHAPTER IX - The Elliptical Temple—Plan—Construction, Measurements—Summit - and Foundations of Main Wall—Chevron Pattern—Ground Surface - of Exterior 193 - - CHAPTER X - The Elliptical Temple (_continued_)—Main Entrances 216 - - CHAPTER XI - The Elliptical Temple (_continued_)—Enclosures Nos. 1 to 7 225 - - CHAPTER XII - The Elliptical Temple (_continued_)—Sacred Enclosure—Conical - Tower—Small Tower—Parallel passage 237 - - CHAPTER XIII - The Elliptical Temple (_continued_)—The Platform—Enclosures - Nos. 9 to 15—Central Area—Platform Area—Inner Parallel - Passage—South Passage—West Passage—North-East Passage—Outer - Parallel Passage 251 - - CHAPTER XIV - Acropolis Ruins—South-East Ancient Ascent—Lower Parapet—Rock - Passage—Upper Parapet—Western Enclosure 276 - - CHAPTER XV - Acropolis Ruins (_continued_)—The Western Temple 297 - - CHAPTER XVI - Acropolis Ruins (_continued_)—Platform Enclosure—Cleft - Rock Enclosure—The Platform—Balcony Wall—Little - Enclosure—Winding Stairs—Upper Passage—East - Passage—Buttress Passage—South Enclosures A, B, and C—South - Cave—South Passage—Central Passage 310 - - CHAPTER XVII - Acropolis Ruins (_continued_)—Eastern Temple—Ancient - Balcony—Balcony Enclosure—Balcony Cave—“Gold Furnace” - Enclosure—Pattern Passage—Recess Enclosure—North - Plateau—North Parapet 323 - - CHAPTER XVIII - Acropolis Ruins (_continued_)—North-West Ancient - Ascent—Watergate Ruins—Terraced Enclosures on North-West - Face of Zimbabwe Hill—South Terrace—Ruins on South Face of - Zimbabwe Hill—Outspan Ruins 344 - - CHAPTER XIX - “The Valley of Ruins”—Posselt, Philips, Maund, Renders, Mauch - Ruins, and South-East Ruins 363 - - CHAPTER XX - “The Valley of Ruins” (_continued_)—No. 1 Ruins—Ridge - Ruins—Camp Ruins Nos. 1 and 2 398 - - CHAPTER XXI - Ruins near Zimbabwe—East Ruins—Other Ruins within the Zimbabwe - Ruins’ Area 420 - - NOTES AND ADDENDA 433 - - INDEX 451 - - - - - LIST OF PLATES - - - PAGE - - Conical Tower, Elliptical Temple, Great Zimbabwe _Frontispiece_ - - The late Mr. Theodore Bent, F.R.G.S., explorer of Great Zimbabwe - in 1891, author of _The Ruined Cities of Mashonaland_ xiii - - Coin of Byblos, Phœnicia, showing Conical Tower xxxvi - - Wooden Bowl with Zodiacal Signs, found near Zimbabwe xxxvi - - Cylinder with Rosettes found at Phœnician Temple of Paphos in - Cyprus xxxviii - - Soapstone Cylinder, with Rosettes, found near Zimbabwe xxxviii - - “Fuko-ya-Nebandge” xl - - Model of Temple xl - - “To Great Zimbabwe” 2 - - Havilah Camp, Great Zimbabwe 2 - - View from Acropolis, showing Elliptical Temple in the Valley, - Zimbabwe 10 - - Conical Tower and Platform (from north), Elliptical Temple, - Zimbabwe 16 - - The Balcony, Eastern Temple, Acropolis. The parapet wall of - Balcony is built upon the suspended boulder 16 - - Carrying débris from the Elliptical Temple 36 - - A noontide shelter at the Elliptical Temple 36 - - The Camp Messenger 46 - - Labourers at the Elliptical Temple 46 - - The Chipo-popo Falls, near Zimbabwe 56 - - Rapping the Moje-je-je, or “Mystic Bar,” Zimbabwe 56 - - Finger Rock, Morgenster, near Zimbabwe 62 - - I-Baku (the cave) at Chicagomboni, where Adam Renders, the - rediscoverer of Great Zimbabwe, lived from 1868 to 1871 62 - - The Bird Rock, near Zimbabwe 68 - - View on Motelekwe River 68 - - A Makalanga, Zimbabwe 80 - - The Camp Watchman 80 - - Makalanga “Boys” fencing, Zimbabwe 84 - - Motumi and Mongwaine, Zimbabwe 84 - - Makalanga mother and child, Zimbabwe 88 - - The Mogabe Handisibishe, chief of the Zimbabwe Makalanga 88 - - Makalanga women and girls at the Mogabe’s Kraal, Great Zimbabwe 96 - - Soapstone Beams, with Birds, Zimbabwe 102 - - Front, side, and back views of Soapstone Bird, Zimbabwe 106 - - Soapstone Bird on Beam, discovered at Philips Ruins, Zimbabwe, in - 1903 (three views) 108 - - An old wall crossing over the foundation of a still older wall, - Zimbabwe 152 - - Binding of the summits of two separate walls 152 - - Exterior of Drain, Elliptical Temple 170 - - Monoliths on the Platform, Acropolis 170 - - South-east Wall, with Chevron Pattern, Elliptical Temple, Great - Zimbabwe 198 - - Chevron Pattern, East Wall, Elliptical Temple 204 - - North-east Wall, with Chevron Pattern, Elliptical Temple, Great - Zimbabwe 206 - - North-west Entrance, Elliptical Temple 216 - - Entrance to Passage, No. 10 Enclosure, Elliptical Temple 216 - - Exterior of North Entrance, Elliptical Temple, Zimbabwe. - Discovered 1903 220 - - Summit of South-east Main Wall, Elliptical Temple 222 - - West Entrance from interior, Elliptical Temple 222 - - Nos. 3 and 4 Enclosures and West Main Wall, Elliptical Temple 228 - - West Entrance, No. 7 Enclosure, Elliptical Temple 234 - - South Wall of No. 7 Enclosure, showing part (to left) - reconstructed, Elliptical Temple 234 - - Visitors’ Ladder to summit of Main Wall, Elliptical Temple 238 - - The small Conical Tower, Elliptical Temple 238 - - The Parallel Passage (from south), Elliptical Temple 246 - - The Parallel Passage (from north), Elliptical Temple 248 - - South Entrance to Parallel Passage, looking south, Elliptical - Temple 250 - - Part of Platform Area, looking west, showing drain from No. 10 - Enclosure, Elliptical Temple 250 - - South Wall, with Pattern, No. 11 Enclosure, Elliptical Temple 258 - - Joint between original and reconstructed walls, Nos. 11 and 12 - Enclosures, Elliptical Temple 258 - - South-east interior of Elliptical Temple, looking N.N.E., and - showing excavations, 1902–4 264 - - Circular Cement Platform, with Steps, and carved Soapstone Beams, - discovered 1903, Elliptical Temple 266 - - Entrance to Inner Parallel Passage from South Passage, Elliptical - Temple 266 - - East Wall, with Pattern, No. 11 Enclosure, Elliptical Temple 268 - - Inner Parallel Passage, looking east, Elliptical Temple 268 - - Zimbabwe Hill, or Acropolis. View from Havilah Camp 276 - - A turn in the Passage of the South-east Ancient Ascent, Acropolis 284 - - View from South-east Ascent, Acropolis 284 - - Lower Entrance to Rock Passage, South-east Ascent, Acropolis 286 - - View down Rock Passage, South-east Ancient Ascent, Acropolis 286 - - Entrance to Covered Passage, Western Temple, Acropolis 300 - - Summit of West Wall of Western Temple, Acropolis, showing small - tower and monoliths 300 - - West Entrance to Parallel Passage, Western Temple, Acropolis 308 - - Buttress Passage, Acropolis 308 - - The Cleft Rock, from north side, Acropolis 312 - - Natural Archway, Central Passage, Acropolis 312 - - View of the Platform from main West Wall of Western Temple, - Acropolis 314 - - Dentelle Pattern on Platform, Western Temple, Acropolis 314 - - Bottom of Winding Stairs, Western Temple, Acropolis 316 - - West Entrance to South Cave, Acropolis 316 - - Exterior of main East Wall, showing Dentelle Pattern, Eastern - Temple, Acropolis 328 - - Sunken Passage (looking east), Eastern Temple, Acropolis 328 - - East Entrance to Pattern Passage, Acropolis 338 - - Pattern Passage, Acropolis, looking east 338 - - West Wall, Recess Enclosure, Acropolis 340 - - The Recesses at Recess Enclosure, Acropolis 340 - - Sunken Passage, section of North-west Ascent, Acropolis 346 - - Herring-bone Pattern, Water Gate, Acropolis 346 - - Rounded end of Wall on west side of Maund Ruins, showing steps to - Platform, Valley of Ruins 384 - - North-east Wall, Maund Ruins, Valley of Ruins 384 - - Slate Beam in Recess of Entrance, Philips Ruins, Valley of Ruins 430 - - The Passage, looking south, Mapaku Ruins, near Zimbabwe 430 - - • • • • • - - Map of Rhodesia xxxii - - General Plan of Zimbabwe Ruins 8 - - Plate I.—Relics 104 - - Plate II.—Relics 116 - - Plate III.—Relics 122 - - Plan of Elliptical Temple 194 - - Plan of Acropolis Ruins 278 - - - LIST OF DIAGRAMS AND PLANS IN THE TEXT - - Great Zimbabwe Reserve 7 - - Section of Floors, No. 15 Enclosure 103 - - Arabian Glass 128 - - Arabian Pottery 131 - - Section of Floors, No. 6 Enclosure 134 - - South and North Entrances to No. 7 Enclosure, Elliptical Temple - 163, 164 - - North-west Entrance, Elliptical Temple 217 - - North or Main Entrance, Elliptical Temple 219 - - West Entrance to Parallel Passage, Elliptical Temple 247 - - Section of Eastern Temple, Acropolis 324 - - Plan of Eastern Temple, Acropolis 326 - - Outspan Ruins 359 - - Posselt Ruins 367 - - Philips Ruins 376 - - Maund Ruins 384 - - Renders Ruins 387 - - Mauch Ruins 393 - - South-east Ruins 397 - - No. 1 Ruins 401 - - Ridge Ruins 411 - - Camp Ruins, No. 1 415 - - 〃 〃 No. 2 418 - - East Ruins 421 - - Ruin near Chenga’s Kraal 427 - - Mapaku Ruins 429 - - -[Illustration: THE LATE MR. THEODORE BENT, F.R.G.S. - -EXPLORER OF GREAT ZIMBABWE IN 1891, AUTHOR OF “THE RUINED CITIES OF -MASHONALAND”] - - - THE VOLUME IS DEDICATED - TO THE MEMORY OF - THE LATE THEODORE BENT, F.R.G.S. - EXPLORER OF GREAT ZIMBABWE, 1891 - AND AUTHOR OF - “THE RUINED CITIES OF MASHONALAND” - - - - - PREFACE[1] - - -In preparing this detailed description of the ruins of Great -Zimbabwe—the first given to the world in modern times—the author has -aimed at permitting the actual ruins themselves to relate their own -story of their forgotten past unweighted by any consideration of the -many traditions, romances, and theories which—especially during the -last decade—have been woven concerning these monuments. - -The only apology offered for this apparently lengthy Preface is the -mention of the fact that the operations at Great Zimbabwe were carried -on for six months after the text of this volume had been sent to -the publishers in England. The Preface, therefore, thus affords an -opportunity of bringing down the results of these operations to a -recent date. - - - RUINS’ AREA - -The recent examination of the district surrounding the ruins now shows -the Ruins’ Area to be far larger than either Mr. Theodore Bent (1891) -or Sir John Willoughby (1892) supposed. Instead of the area being -confined to 945 yds. by 840 yds., it is now known to be at least 2 -miles by 1¼ miles, and even this larger limit is by no means final, -as traces of walls and of walls buried several feet under the veld -have been discovered, not only in Zimbabwe Valley, but in the secluded -valleys and gorges and on the hillsides which lie a mile and even two -miles beyond the extended area. Huge mounds, many hundred feet in -circumference, with no traces of ruins, covered with large full-grown -trees and with the remains on the surface of very old native huts, on -being examined have been found to contain well-built ruins in which -were unearthed small conical towers, gold ornaments, a few phalli, and -in one instance a carved soapstone bird on a soapstone beam 4 ft. 8 in. -high, which is more perfect and more ornate than any other soapstone -bird on beam yet found at Zimbabwe. The examination of such spots and -of all traces of walls which lie at the outer edge of the extended -Ruins’ Area would, even with a large gang of labourers, occupy almost a -lifetime. - -Mr. Bent spoke of Zimbabwe as a “city,” and recent discoveries show -the employment of this title to be fully justified, for not only is -the Ruins’ Area vastly extended, but the formerly conjectured area can -now be shown by recent excavations to have been much more crowded with -buildings than could possibly have been seen in 1891. For instance, -2,300 ft. of passages have recently been discovered within the heart -of the old Ruins’ Area buried some feet under the silted soil below -the veld in spots where the siltation is rapid, the existence of which -structures had been altogether unsuspected. In some instances the -native paths, used by visitors inspecting the ruins, crossed these -passages from 3 ft. to 5 ft. above the tops of the passage walls. -The enormous quantity of débris, evidencing occupations in several -periods, scattered over both the old and the extended area, is simply -astonishing, and judging by the value of “finds” made during the recent -work, it seems quite possible that further exploration would, in the -intrinsic value of relics as relics, largely reimburse the expense -of its continuance, while securing the opening up of fresh features -of architecture and probably some definite clues as to the original -builders of the numerous periods of occupation respectively; would -bring an immense addition to scientific knowledge, while the more -important ruins themselves, having been cleared of silted and imported -soils and wall débris, are now ripe for the further examination for -relics. - - - BURIAL-PLACES OF THE OLD COLONISTS - -The secluded valleys, and also the caves in hills, for a distance of -six miles, and in some cases as far as ten miles, from Zimbabwe have -been systematically searched in the hope of discovering the burial -place of the old gold-seekers. The neighbourhood of Zimbabwe contains -several extensive ranges of granite hills each enclosing many secluded -and Sinbad-like valleys and gorges, where natives state white men had -never previously entered. Such spots on the whole of the Beroma Hills -to the east of Zimbabwe, the south end of the Livouri Range to the -west, the Bentberg Range to the south, and several hills in the Nini -district, as well as several parts in the Motelekwe Valley, have been -systematically searched without avail, though there are in certain -of these secluded places traces of walls and artificially placed -upright stones and other signs of human presence which require some -explanation. The siltation of soil from the steep hillsides of many -of these most romantically situated valleys has been very extensive. -These searches could only be carried on after veld fires had swept the -district of the rank grass which here grows to a height of 12 ft. Mr. -Bent and other writers have shown that the old Arabians religiously -preserved their dead, burying them in secluded spots at some -considerable distance from any place of occupation. The writer is not -without hope that these burial-places may yet be found. The population -of Zimbabwe at several different periods must have been immense, and, -judging by the remains found near some of the oldest types of ruins -in other parts of the country where the amount of gold ornaments -buried with each corpse ranged from 1 oz. to 72 oz., the discovery -of such places in the Zimbabwe district would yield important -results, especially as, for many reasons, Zimbabwe undoubtedly appears -to have been the ancient metropolitan capital and the centre of -gold-manufacturing industry of the original and later Arab gold miners, -and the place so far has yielded the richest discoveries of gold in -every form. - -The writer is now perfectly assured that no burial-places of the -original builders will be found under the interior of the Elliptical -Temple or within 30 yds. of the exterior. Holes have been sunk at -regular intervals within the temple and immediately outside the walls, -and boring-rods have been systematically employed, and the position -and lie of the formation rock ascertained throughout, so that sections -and levels have been made of the soil and rock under the temple. -All the results gained from each hole and boring are recorded. But -beyond discovering buried foundations at the higher level, only virgin -soil, never before disturbed, was gone through. French and German -archæologists who visited Zimbabwe during the operations confirmed what -British scientists have affirmed, that no burials of people of Semitic -stock would be found within or near to any building so frequently in -use as the great temple must have been. The severe restrictions with -regard to cleanliness and sanitation, especially as to the dead, are -among the most notable features of the old Semitic nations. - - - ABSENCE OF INSCRIPTIONS - -No ancient writing has been discovered, though close attention has been -paid to all stones and pottery likely to bear it, and notwithstanding -that the interiors of some of the more ancient portions of the ruins -have been cleared down to the old floors where, if any existed, -they might reasonably have been expected to be found. Post-Koranic -lettering was found on highly glazed pottery, also on glass, but all -such specimens are of a fragmentary character; but experts such as Mr. -Wallace Budge, the Head Keeper of Egyptian and Assyrian Antiquities -at the British Museum, state that the glass and other “finds” of -pottery are not older than the thirteenth or fourteenth century of this -era. Other pottery thickly covered with dull-coloured glazes—mainly -purples, greens, and browns—is thought to be somewhat older than that -on which the lettering was found. Still, as such a very large portion -of what may be considered as the more ancient of the ruins remains to -be examined, it may yet be possible to unearth older specimens of Arab -writing. - - - TWO PERIODS OF GOLD MANUFACTURE - -Gold in a manufactured form is found on the lowest and original floors -of the most ancient portions of the Zimbabwe ruins. In several ruins -this was found as thickly strewn about the cement floors as nails -in a carpenter’s shop. Gold ornaments discovered at this depth, in -some instances from 3 ft. to 5 ft. below any known native floors, -were always found in association with the oldest form of relics yet -unearthed at Zimbabwe. Such gold articles are of most delicate make, -and are doubtless of an antique character, and expert opinion recently -obtained in England confirms this conclusion. - -But there are other gold articles which are ruder in design and make, -and these by no means are entitled to claim such antiquity. In fact, -expert opinion declines to recognise them as being in any sense -ancient; for instance, beaten gold of irregular shape showing the -rough hammer marks of some very crude instrument, and with holes round -the edges of such plates very rudely cut—or rather torn—and placed -in imperfect rows altogether in a haphazard style. This form of gold -plates is identical in every detail with the copper sheathing with -which it is always found associated. The same remarks apply equally to -the gold beads also found with this class of plates which betoken crude -workmanship, as well as to the iron instruments decorated with small -gold knobs. - -With regard to the location of the later-period gold articles there is -ample evidence that these are of very old native origin. Such ornaments -are commonly met with on the floors of, or in close proximity to, the -old native huts of the types of Nos. 2 and 3 (see _Architecture_, s.s. -_Native Huts found in Ruins_, pp. 154, 155, _post_), and also in the -cement huts with small radiating walls on levels several feet above any -ancient floorings. In every instance such gold ornaments are found in -association with articles of old native make—such as double iron gongs, -copper sheathing, and copper assegai- and arrow-heads. - - - ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - - NORTH ENTRANCE - -In 1902 the floor of the North Entrance to the temple was exposed to -a depth of 5 ft. below the surface, as shown in Mr. Bent’s book (p. -106), while a flight of steps in perfect condition leading up to the -entrance from the exterior was discovered at a depth of 9 ft. below the -old surface. This entrance, showing a bold conception and admirable -construction, is now considered as one of the principal show features -at Zimbabwe. Further, it is the oldest form of entrance and steps as -well as the finest of any yet discovered in Rhodesia. A quantity of -gold was found on the floor and steps of this entrance, which were once -covered with fine granite cement, also a few true phalli. - - - PARALLEL PASSAGE - -This has been cleared throughout to a depth of at least 3 ft., and in -one place 7 ft. Cement floors were exposed, and these were found to -be divided into small catchment areas with a drain from each passing -outwards through the main wall. Five additional drains were discovered -in this passage. Here were found eight ornate phalli, a portion of a -gold bangle, some beaten gold and gold tacks of microscopic size, and -fragments of carved soapstone beams. - - - SACRED ENCLOSURE - -This was cleared out to a depth of 4 ft. throughout its whole area, and -a few phalli of unmistakable form were found, and old granite cement -floors and steps were uncovered. Explorers and relic hunters had worked -in this enclosure, and had double trenched it from end to end. - -A remarkable discovery was made here of distinct traces of granite -cement dadoes, 7 ft. high, round the interior faces of the walls of -this enclosure. In some other enclosures the remains of dadoes can -still be seen. - -The small conical tower in this enclosure has during the last ten years -been seriously damaged by the large trunk of a tree pushing over the -summit of the cone. Photographs of this small tower taken in 1891 show -that it was then almost intact. - - - PLATFORM AREA - -This open area, lying to the west and north of the Conical Tower and -the Platform, corresponds to the open areas immediately in front of -the altars in old Grecian temples. This was Mr. Bent’s opinion, and -possibly it answered at Zimbabwe a similar purpose of accommodating the -worshippers. The area, some 120 ft. by 60 ft., has been cleared out of -large trees, and of about 6 ft. of soil throughout, and floors—both -cement and clay—were disclosed, also a fine circular structure of -excellent granite cement, and ascended by two steps. On and close to -this structure were found fragments, mainly bases, of carved soapstone -beams of slender appearance, also some phalli and gold. This platform -lies slightly off the north line between the Conical Tower and the Main -North Entrance. - -Some of the walls surrounding this area on the west and north sides, -once considered to be ancient, can now be seen to cross over very old -native clay huts and native copper and iron-smelting furnaces. The -soil contained some phalli, which had been converted by the natives -into amulets, also some Arabian glass—thirteenth and fourteenth -centuries—Venetian beads, gold wire-work, beaten gold, gold scorifiers -of native pottery, iron pincers, and fragments of carved soapstone -bowls with geometric designs. - - - ENCLOSURES 6, 7, AND 10 - -Gold-smelting operations must have, at some late period, been -extensively carried on in these enclosures, for on removing from each -enclosure all débris and fallen stones to a depth of from 4 ft. to 7 -ft., there were found burnishing stones of fine grain and still covered -with gold, gold scorifiers with gold in the flux, cakes of gold, gold -furnace slag, beaten gold, and gold dust. - -At a still lower depth in No. 6 Enclosure a quantity of granite -clay crucibles, showing gold richly, were met with, and these are -undoubtedly of older type than the native pottery scorifiers, also some -ingot moulds of soapstone of the double claw-hammer or St. Andrew’s -cross pattern. - - - CENTRAL AREA - -This area is only partially excavated, it being covered with old -native-built walls which cross over bone and ash débris, old native -huts, an iron furnace, and rich black mould in which the vegetable -matter was still undecayed. Experimental holes and boring-rods showed -that some very old foundations ran below the soil upon which the later -and poorer walls are built. However, a key has now been found which -will enable further excavations to be made within this area without -injury to the upper walls. - - - SUMMIT OF MAIN EAST WALL - -Along the summit of the east main wall, and only over the chevron -pattern which faces east, have recently been discovered the traces of -foundations of small circular towers, both on the inner and outer edges -of the wall. These correspond in measurement and relative position to -the small conical towers on the west wall of the Western Temple at -the Acropolis Ruins, which is decorated with monoliths. Some of the -best-known surveyors and practical builders in Rhodesia are prepared -to certify as to the traces of these foundations. This is entirely a -new discovery, as is also the fact that at one time the summit of the -wall, only over the chevron pattern, bore beautifully rounded soapstone -monoliths, the bases being found displaced under the ruck of loose -blocks which runs along the centre of the summit of this part of the -main wall. Some carved splinters of these monoliths were found at the -bases of the wall. A collection of these “finds” has been sent to the -Salisbury Museum. - - - PROBABLE AGES OF THE WALLS OF THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - -All the walls of the Elliptical Temple are not ancient; that is, -not ancient in the sense applying to the suggested Sabæo-Arabian -occupation of Rhodesia and also to that of the Solomonic gold period. -The evidences pointing to this conclusion, and now for the first time -available, are so obvious and general, and the ocular demonstration so -positive, that one of the many popular myths concerning Great Zimbabwe -must, even at the risk of committing a vandalism on cherished romantic -theories and beliefs, go by the board. The writer prefers that the -ruins should tell their own story, and this can now be read in the -walls, in the débris heaps, and in the relics and their associated -“finds” and locations. - -The oldest walls of the temple for which great antiquity may be -claimed are—the main east wall from north to south, the Conical Tower, -the Platform, portions of the inner wall of the Parallel Passage -(reconstructions are present here), and some adjoining walls, and some -buried walls and foundations, and possibly some other walls on the -south side, concerning which some doubt exists, as also the west wall -of the West Passage, a well-built structure which once was extended at -either extremity. As to the question of obviously much later walls, -this is involved in the following section of this preface. - - - WEST WALL CONTROVERSY - -The writer is fully convinced that the original west wall of the temple -once extended outwards further west, and that the present west wall -extending towards the south is of much more recent construction and -is built on a shorter curve, _also that most of the structures of the -central and western portions of the building are also of much later -construction_, and this for many substantial reasons, some of which are -here briefly stated:— - -(_a_) The west wall is considered by all practical builders and -architects to be far slighter, much inferior in construction, fuller -of defects, and to contain to a greater extent ill-shaped stones than -the main wall on the east side, while the foundations are at many -points far more irregular, and the batter-back of the interior face -of the west wall is less severe than is the case of the east side. -Lengths of 25 ft. each of both walls have been examined and compared -and photographed, and the number of defects of construction recorded. -The number of false and “straight joints,” false and disappearing -courses, and stones supported at their corners by granite chips, which -the west wall contains, is roughly about forty odd to every one of -such defects in the east wall, which is _the_ architectural marvel for -symmetry, grand proportion, true courses of most carefully selected and -assorted blocks (some of which have been dressed with metal tools) of -any other ancient architectural features at Zimbabwe. All this is an -ocular demonstration, and is commented upon by the most casual visitor -to these ruins. This, too, is very patent when seen from the summit of -Zimbabwe Hill, the view looking down upon the temple revealing most -obviously the different characters of the walls. - -(_b_) In 1903 the writer cleared the soil away from the gap between the -older and later walls, and found that they were widely different in -construction; that the later and narrower wall approached the older and -well-built and wider wall at an oblique angle; and that the end of the -older wall is broken and not finished off as are other ends of ancient -walls. In a trench made at a distance of twelve yards west of the gap, -and on the curve the older wall, if continued, would have passed, a -mass of buried masonry, which might have been a portion of the old -wall, was disclosed. - -(_c_) Dr. Hahn, the leading expert in South Africa in chemical -metallurgy, analysed the soil underlying the foundation of the west -wall, and pronounced it to be composed of disintegrated furnace slag -and ashes containing gold and iron. The ground to the west of the west -wall has always been the spot at which gold prospectors have washed the -soil for gold, and here gold crucibles and scorifiers are to be found. -This soil contains 73 per cent. of silica, and would make an excellent -foundation for walls, and the west wall is built right along this bed -of furnace slag, which is about 2 ft. in depth, many yards wide, and -extends from north to south. - -(_d_) At a few feet from the exterior of the west wall, and _at a depth -of four feet below the level of its foundation_, and extending as shown -in trenches and cross-cuts for at least thirty yards from north to -south, is a floor of granite cement laid on the formation rock, hiding -its irregularities and making a perfectly level surface. The full -extent of this flooring has not yet been ascertained. For two feet -between the level of this cement flooring and the furnace-slag soil -under the foundations of the west wall is fine silted soil. Evidently -the later wall was erected at a very considerable period subsequently -to the laying of the cement flooring and after the siltation of the -soil, and also after the gold-smelting operations had been extensively -carried on for a long period. - -(_e_) No single relic of any great antiquity has been found by any -explorer or prospector in the western portion of the temple, while the -eastern portion has yielded at depth great quantities of phalli and of -every relic believed to be associated with the earliest occupiers. - -The oldest “find” in the western half of the building is pronounced -by Dr. Budge to be of a period dating from between the thirteenth and -fifteenth centuries of this era, and other “finds” relate to the same -and later periods. - - - WRITER’S CONCLUSIONS - -The writer is now and for the above and further considerations, and -after two years’ residence within the ruins, perfectly convinced of the -following:— - -(1) That on the departure of the ancient builders and occupiers the -temple became a ruin, and remained as such for some centuries, the west -wall disappearing in the meantime (as explained later); (2) that some -organised Arab people, possibly a split of the numerous Arab colonies -and kingdoms which existed down the East African coast, possibly of -the Magdoshu kingdom, who, according to De Barros, reached Sofala -(1100 A.D.), exploited the gold mines, and formed a mixed population -between the Arabs and natives, or possibly the Arabs of Quiloa, who -secured as suzerain power Sofala and the kingdom of the Monomotapa -(Rhodesia). One of these peoples is believed to be responsible for -the ruins of Inyanga, which the writer after examining these remains -does not consider to be ancient in the fullest sense of the term. One -of these peoples are also believed to be responsible for making the -“_old_ workings,” the distinction between which and the “_ancient_ -workings” must always be kept in mind, a distinction which the late Mr. -Telford Edwards always pointed out and insisted upon, and concerning -which recent investigations prove him to have been correct; (3) that -these Arabs made Zimbabwe their headquarters, to which the washed gold -dust was brought to be converted into ingots for transport; (4) that -these Arabs carried on extensive gold-smelting operations at the west -end of the temple in the shelter of the massive walls, which would -protect them against the prevailing winds and drifting rains; (5) that -_after_ carrying on these gold-smelting operations extensively and for -a considerable period, they built a wall across the open space and -upon their furnace-slag beds, possibly employing native labour (the -Makalanga being notorious for their skill in wall building); and (6) -that these Arabs also built several of the enclosures in the central -and western parts of the temple to suit their special convenience, and -altogether regardless of the buried foundations of the ancient builders. - - - DESTRUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL WEST WALL - -It may be asked what caused the destruction of the original west -wall. Its disappearance may be accounted for as follows. The south -and west walls have for centuries borne the full brunt of all the -torrential rain and storm water which rushes to these points from the -Bentberg Kopjes, which lie close to the temple on the south side. This -accounts for the great depth of silted soil which buries the old cement -flooring. This must have washed the lower portions of the walls till -the cement foundations decomposed and brought down the structure as it -has done at other ruins at Zimbabwe. The writer at the commencement -of his first rainy season at Zimbabwe found a large pool about 30 -yds. in length, 15 yds. in breadth, and 2 ft. in depth up against the -present west wall, towards which all surface water from the higher -ground rushed unchanged. This had been going on every rainy season for -many generations, with the result of forming large cavities under the -foundations, and of keeping the wall in a constant drip with damp even -at noontide, and of causing the spread of large moss over the walls, -while shrubs and small trees grew out of the walls at some height from -their base. Trenches and runs-off and banks soon cured this evil, and -now the walls have changed from being black with damp to being grey -with dryness. The moss has naturally flaked off, and the trees and -shrubs in the walls are dead, owing to lack of moisture. - - - THE ACROPOLIS RUINS - - WESTERN TEMPLE - -Operations in this temple since the description of the earlier work -was embodied in the text of this volume have been carried on to June, -1904. Soil to a depth of from 3 ft. to 5 ft. was removed from the whole -of the eastern portion of this area. The excavations showed several -layers of native clay floors one above another. The “finds” were those -known to be of native origin, though not made by natives of to-day. The -later or native period of gold manufacture was greatly in evidence, -beaten gold, gold tacks, and gold wire being frequently met with in -association with copper sheathing, copper assegai- and arrow-heads, the -copper containing no alloy. - -A trial hole sunk to a depth of 6 ft. below this cleared portion of -the temple area, or 9 ft. below the surface as it appeared in 1903, -showed in its sides the lines of several clay floors and the side of a -Kafir clay hut, now quite decomposed and soft. At the bottom of the -pit a rough pavement of closely-fitting stones of irregular shape and -size was come upon, and the articles found were identical with those -discovered at a higher level. - -The clearing of the area also disclosed clay sides of huts with the -remains of short walls of stone radiating from the sides of the huts. -The wall which Mr. Bent considered might have been the “altar” was -found to be the radiating wall of a similar hut built upon a higher -level. These small radiating walls are a general feature of exceedingly -old native huts found at several places at Zimbabwe. - -A large circular platform of granite cement was also disclosed. This -spot yielded beaten gold of native make. - - - A ZIMBABWE REVIVAL - -The writer believes that between the thirteenth and fifteenth -centuries, or slightly earlier, a great influx of people took place -at Zimbabwe, and that the majority of the minor ruins in the Valley -of Ruins were built about this period. This is shown by the number of -walls built across exceedingly old débris heaps of native origin, by -the “finds” of Arabian articles on their lowest floors, and by the fact -that no relic of greater age than that period has been found. Two or -three of the better-built minor ruins have the appearance of greater -age, and some of the relics found in this class of ruins are of the -oldest type. No one who had not spent considerable time at Zimbabwe -could have any possible conception of the immense population present -here at a period of but a few centuries ago. The remains of their stone -walls are scattered thickly over the valleys and hillsides of Zimbabwe. -The Makalanga state these are all Makalanga of generations long passed -away. Some are constructions by indigenous peoples, and certainly they -are not ancient, though largely built of stones quarried from the -ancient ruins, and the “finds” are those of old native type, including -Arab articles. - - - PRESERVATION OF RUINS - -The thanks of all scientific circles, and of South Africans generally, -are due to Sir W. H. Milton, Administrator of Rhodesia, whose great -interest in the preservation of the ancient monuments in these -territories is well known, and to whose direction is due the recent -and timely preservation work at Great Zimbabwe. The author desires -to express his personal indebtedness to Sir William Milton for -the adequate arrangements made by him while engaged in his recent -researches at the Great Zimbabwe. - - - PLAN OF ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - -The clearing of the Elliptical Temple and its vicinity has enabled Mr. -Franklin White, M.E., Bulawayo, to prepare the latest and so far the -most perfect plan of that building, and this he has kindly placed at -the service of the author. - -Indebtedness is also expressed to Professor A. H. Keane, LL.D. (author -of _The Gold of Ophir_), for the contribution of the _Introduction_ to -this volume; to Mrs. Theodore Bent for generously permitting the use in -this volume of illustrations from _The Ruined Cities of Mashonaland_; -to Mr. Gray, Chief Veterinary Surgeon, Salisbury, Mr. H. S. Meilandt, -Government Roads Inspector, Bulawayo, and Trooper Wenham, B.S.A.P., -Victoria, for permission to reproduce certain photographs of the ruins, -and also to the Directors of the British South Africa Company for -permission to include the map of Rhodesia in this work. - - HAVILAH CAMP, GREAT ZIMBABWE, - RHODESIA, S.A. - _1st June, 1904_. - - - - - INTRODUCTION - - BY A. H. KEANE, LL.D. - - -An archæological work of absorbing interest, such as the volume here -presented to the reader, needs no introduction. Nor are the following -remarks meant to be taken in that sense, but only as a sort of “missing -link” in the chain of evidence between past and present, between the -Arabian Himyarites and the Rhodesian monuments, the forging of which -the author has entrusted to me. In _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_, -of which _Great Zimbabwe_ is the inevitable outcome, Messrs. Hall and -Neal did not discuss the problem of origins, speculation was distinctly -eschewed, and although their personal views were, and are, in harmony -with those of all competent observers, they made no dogmatic statement -on the subject, leaving the main conclusion to be inferred from the -great body of evidence which they patiently accumulated on the spot -and embodied in their monumental work. In _Great Zimbabwe_, of which -Mr. Hall is sole author, and the rich materials for which he has alone -brought together, the same attitude of reserve is still maintained, -perhaps even more severely, and therefore it is that he has now invited -me to develop the argument by which, as he hopes and I believe, the -wonderful prehistoric remains strewn over Southern Rhodesia, but -centred chiefly in the Great Zimbabwe group, may be finally traced to -their true source in South Arabia, Phœnicia, and Palestine. - -In _The Gold of Ophir, whence Brought and by Whom_,[2] where several -chapters are devoted to this subject, I inferred, on plausible grounds, -that the Havilah of Scripture—“the whole land of Havilah where there is -gold”—was the mineralised region between the Zambesi and the Limpopo, -and that the ancient gold-workings of this region were first opened -and the associated monuments erected by the South Arabian Himyarites, -followed in the time of Solomon by the Jews and Phœnicians. I further -endeavoured to show that all these Semitic treasure-seekers reached -Havilah (the port of which was Tharshish, probably the present -Sofala) through Madagascar, where they had settlements and maintained -protracted commercial and social intercourse with the Malagasy natives; -and lastly, that the produce of the mines was by them sent down to -the coast and shipped at Tharshish for Ophir, the great Himyaritic -emporium on the south coast of Arabia, whence it was distributed over -the eastern world. It followed that the scriptural “gold of Ophir” did -not mean the gold mined at Ophir, which was not, as hitherto supposed, -an auriferous land, but a gold mart.[3] The expression meant the gold -imported by the Jews and Phœnicians from Havilah (Rhodesia), _viâ_ -Tharshish, Ophir, and Ezion-geber in Idumæa, at the head of the Red Sea. - -It is needless here to recapitulate in detail the arguments that I have -advanced in support of this general thesis. But I should like to point -out that if one or two of them have been invalidated by my critics, -several have been greatly strengthened by the fresh evidence that has -accumulated since the appearance of _The Gold of Ophir_. - -Of course, incomparably the most important mass of fresh evidence is -that which has been brought together by Mr. Hall himself during his -two years’ researches amid the central group of ruins, and is now -permanently embodied in _Great Zimbabwe_. Yet the work has in a sense -been but begun; it has reached down only to the ancient flooring which -has still to be explored; and we are assured by Sir John Willoughby, -a most competent authority, that after two months’ exploring the -wonderful Elliptical Temple with a large gang of labourers, two years -will yet be needed to complete the surface work of that structure -alone, without touching the old floors. Mr. Hall infers that three -further years will be required for the Acropolis itself, besides the -“Valley of Ruins,” with the groups of buildings extending in all -directions for over a mile from the temple. A mere glance at some of -the finely reproduced photographs creates a sense of awe and amazement -at the huge size and solidity of the containing walls with their -patiently interwoven chevron and other patterns, and at the vast -extent of the ground covered by these great monuments of a forgotten -past. Their erection must have taken many scores of years, one might -say centuries, and their builders must consequently have dwelt for -many generations in the land which they so diligently exploited for -its underground treasures. Here and in all the other strictly mining -districts they carried on their operations in the midst of hostile -native populations, as is sufficiently evident from the strongholds -crowning so many strategical heights, from the formidable ramparts and -the immense strength of the outer walls, everywhere rounding off in -long narrow passages leading to the inner enclosures. - -[Illustration] - -Under such conditions it will naturally be asked, whence did the -foreign intruders obtain their food supplies? The answer to this -question is suggested in _The Ancient Ruins_, where it is pointed out -(p. 208) that the auriferous reefs of the central Zimbabwe district, -and generally of all the districts in immediate proximity to the -fortified stations, show no traces of having ever been worked for -the precious metal. “Possibly the reason for the ancients ignoring -the gold-reefs of this district [Zimbabwe] lies in the fact that -the country round about is exceedingly well suited for agricultural -purposes, the soil being rich and water plentiful, and all vegetable -growths prolific and profuse. The large population of ancients, -together with the enormous gangs of slaves, would naturally consume -a vast quantity of grain, and this necessity would create a large -agricultural class, who, for their own safety and for the protection -of their crops and fruits, would naturally carry on their operations -within such an area as could be safeguarded by the fortresses of -Zimbabwe.” - -It might at first sight be supposed that the food supplies were drawn -chiefly from the extensive agricultural settlements of the Inyanga -territory, on the northern slopes of Mashonaland, which drain through -the Ruenga and its numerous affluents to the right bank of the Zambesi. -This Inyanga district may be roughly described, from the archæological -point of view, as an area of old aqueducts, of old terraced slopes, -and of old ruins of a less imposing type than the Zimbabwe remains. -In a notice of _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_ contributed to the -_Geographical Journal_ for April, 1902, I first drew attention to the -surprising analogy, or rather identity, between these terraces and -those of the South Arabian uplands visited by General E. T. Haig in the -eighties. So close is the parallelism that Haig’s description might -almost change places with Mr. Telford Edwards’ account of the Inyanga -works quoted in _The Ancient Ruins_, p. 353 _sq._, as thus:— - - - TERRACED SLOPES TERRACED SLOPES - (SOUTH ARABIA) (SOUTH AFRICA) - -“In one district the whole “The extent of these ancient -mountain side, for a height of terraces is astonishing, and -6,000 ft., was terraced from top there is every evidence of the -to bottom. Everywhere, above, past existence of _hundreds of -below, and all around, endless thousands of inhabitants_. It -flights of terraced walls meet would be quite impossible to -the eye. One can hardly realise convey any idea of the immensity -the enormous amount of labour, of labour implied in the enormous -toil, and perseverance which these number of these ancient terraces. -represent. The terraced walls I saw at least 150 square miles -are usually from 4 to 5 ft. in composed of kopjes from 100 to 400 -height, but towards the top of ft. in height literally strewn -the mountain they are sometimes with the ruins. A contemplation -as much as 15 or 18 ft. They are of the enormous tonnage of stones -built entirely of rough stone and earth rudely built into these -laid without mortar. I reckoned terraces left me amazed. It -on an average that each wall appears to be abundantly clear -retains a terrace not more than that the terraces were for the -twice its own height in width, purpose of cultivating cereals of -and I do not think I saw a single some sort. The terraces as a rule -breach in one of them unrepaired” rise up in vertical lifts of about -(Haig, _Proceedings Geographical 2 or 3 ft., and extend backwards -Society_, 1887, p. 482). over a distance of mostly 7 to 12 - ft. The terraces are all made very - flat and of dry masonry, not of - hewn stone.” - -But Mr. Hall, who visited the Inyanga territory in May, 1904, now finds -that the terraced slopes,[4] the so-called “slave-pits,” and the other -remains, although “old,” are not “ancient.” That is to say, they date -not from Himyaritic times, but probably from the eleventh or twelfth -century of the new era, when parts of Rhodesia were reoccupied by -large numbers of Moslem Arabs from Quiloa and their other settlements -along the east coast. Hence, although the terraced slopes still form a -connecting link between South Africa and South Arabia, the South Arabia -here in question is that, not of pre-, but of post-Koranic times. - -Of course, the ruined houses and ruined aqueducts are too much -obliterated to supply any clear points of comparison. But their mere -presence, and especially the vast extent of ground covered by them, -will suffice to confirm Mr. Telford Edwards’ estimate of the vast -numbers of civilised peoples who inhabited the rich Inyanga valleys -in prehistoric times, and whom we may now call Sabæans, Minæans, and -others Himyarites. - -Were the houses still extant, we should expect to find them covered -with the same decorative mural motives as are still seen both on the -Zimbabwe monuments and on the public buildings of Sana, present capital -of Arabia Felix. Manzoni, who visited this city three times between -the years 1877 and 1880, figures a mansion six stories high, which is -richly ornamented with two such motives—the chevron and the vertical -block pattern—closely resembling those everywhere occurring on the more -ancient Rhodesian walls. The chevron, which is seen both in single and -double courses exactly as on the great walls of the Elliptical Temple, -is absolutely identical, while the block design differs only in being -quite vertical at Sana, whereas it is slightly tilted, or else two rows -of blocks converge to produce the herring-bone pattern on the Rhodesian -walls, as at Little Umnukwana and many other places. The reader -will find Manzoni’s mansion reproduced in Mr. D. G. Hogarth’s _The -Penetration of Arabia_, 1904, p. 198, and he will there notice that the -various motives fill up all the space between two parallel horizontal -lines, as is so often the case in Rhodesia.[5] Here, therefore, style, -motive, general treatment, everything corresponds between the Rhodesian -remains and the decorative fancies still flourishing in Sana, heir to -the cultural traditions of the neighbouring Mariaba and of the other -ancient Himyaritic capitals in South Arabia. - -[Illustration: COIN OF BYBLOS, PHŒNICIA, SHEWING CONICAL TOWER -(FIG. I)] - -[Illustration: WOODEN BOWL WITH SIGNS OF ZODIAC FOUND NEAR ZIMBABWE -(FIG. 2)] - -In _The Gold of Ophir_ frequent reference is made to the relations, -social and commercial, established between Palestine and Madagascar -certainly as early as the time of Solomon, and possibly even during -the reign of his father David. On this point I might have spoken even -more confidently, for I have since received a communication from M. -Alfred Grandidier, by far the greatest living authority on all -things Malagasy, who calls my attention to the evidence supplied in -his monumental work, _Histoire Physique, Naturelle et Politique de -Madagascar_ (1901), of intercourse between the Jews and the natives -of Madagascar and neighbouring islands even in pre-Solomonic days. -Documents are quoted to show that the Comoros, stepping-stones between -Madagascar and Rhodesia, were peopled in the reign of Solomon “by Arabs -or rather by Idumæan Jews from the Red Sea,” and that the people of the -great island preserve many Israelitish rites, usages, and traditions, -cherish the memory of Adam, Abraham, Lot, Moses, Gideon, but have no -knowledge of any of the prophets after the time of David, “which seems -to show that the Jewish immigrants left their home at a very remote -date, since if the exodus had been recent they could not have forgotten -the great names posterior to the time of David.” Hence he concludes -that “there is nothing surprising in the presence of an Idumæan colony -in Madagascar, for we know that from the very earliest times the Arabs -of Yemen had frequented the East African seaboard at least as far as -Sofala.” These words lend further support to my identification of -Tharshish with Sofala, and in a note it is added that “the Jews and -Arabian Semites were not the only peoples who had formerly commercial -relations with the inhabitants of the African seaboard. From time -immemorial these southern waters were navigated by the fleets of the -Egyptians, probably even of the Chaldeans, Babylonians, Assyrians, -Phœnicians, Tyrians” (_op. cit._, p. 96). And again at p. 100: “From -the earliest times the Indian Ocean was traversed by Chaldean, -Egyptian, Jewish, Arab, Persian, Indian, and other vessels.”[6] - -My statements regarding the long-standing relations of the Northern -Semites with the peoples of Madagascar and South Africa as far as -Sofala are thus fully supported by the greatest authority on the -subject. But there are some minds so constituted that they seem -incapable of accepting a new revelation. They can do nothing but _stare -super vias antiquas_, and will strain every nerve to minimise the force -of facts and arguments pointing at conclusions which run counter to -their deep-rooted prejudices. I here reproduce the famous “Zimbabwe -Zodiac” (Fig. 2.), which was found near Great Zimbabwe, and shows the -twelve signs of the Zodiac carved round the rim, as described by the -late Dr. Schlichter in the _Geographical Journal_ for April, 1890. This -specialist tells us that “the signs coincide in every respect with -other finds which Bent and others have made in Zimbabwe. One of the -pictures is an image of the sun analogous to the sun-pictures which -Mauch and Bent found on the monoliths of Zimbabwe, and _analogous also -to finds in Asia Minor which belong to the Assyro-Babylonian period_.” -But a writer in the _Guardian_ attempts to destroy the significance of -this document by asserting that the Zodiac or its nomenclature is of -Greek origin and consequently of no great age. Now the Hon. Emmeline M. -Plunket has recently (1903) published a work on _Ancient Calendars and -Constellations_, in which she maintains that the Babylonian Calendar, -with its Zodiacal signs, dates from 6000 B.C., that is, about 8,000 -years ago. It is true that this estimate is not clearly made out. But -on the other hand, the reader may be assured that Miss Plunket does -not hold by the “Greek” theory. Nor does F. Delitzsch, who reminds us -that “when we distinguish twelve signs of the Zodiac and call them -Ram, Bull, Twins, etc., in all this the Sumero-Babylonian culture is -still a living influence down to the present day.”[7] Nor does Sayce, -who points out that the Babylonian account of the Flood occurs in the -eleventh book of the epic of Gisdhubar corresponding approximately -with the eleventh sign of the Zodiac, at that time _Aquarius_, just -as the fifth book records the death of a monstrous lion by Gisdhubar, -answering to the Zodiacal _Leo_ and so on. He further observes that -“the Zodiacal signs had been marked out and named at that remote period -(certainly before 2000 B.C.), when the sun was still in Taurus at the -beginning of spring,”[8] and, let me add, when the Greeks had not -yet been heard of, but when the great Gnomon, or Conical Tower, had -possibly already been erected by the Semitic builders of Great Zimbabwe. - -[Illustration: CYLINDER WITH ROSETTES FOUND IN PHŒNICIAN TEMPLE OF -PAPHOS, IN CYPRUS -(FIG. 3)] - -[Illustration: SOAPSTONE CYLINDER, WITH ROSETTES FOUND NEAR ZIMBABWE -(FIG. 4)] - -That this and the numerous other conical towers still standing amid -the crumbling ruins of Rhodesia are all cast in a Semitic mould -will be at once seen by comparing them with the conical tower of a -temple, figured on a medallion found at Byblos in Phœnicia and here -reproduced (Fig. 1.). The comparison may also be extended to the -two embossed cylinders—one from Great Zimbabwe, the other from the -Temple of Paphos, in Cyprus, here also reproduced (Figs. 3 and 4) from -Bent’s _Ruined Cities_, pp. 170, 171. These two objects, so strikingly -similar in general design, reminded Bent of Herodian’s description of -the sacred cone in the great Phœnician Temple of the Sun at Emessa, -in Syria, which was adorned with certain “knobs or protuberances,” a -pattern supposed by him to represent the sun, and common in phallic -decorations, such as are constantly turning up with every shovelful of -débris removed from the Zimbabwe Temple Enclosures. - -But although thousands of stones have been washed and carefully -examined for inscriptions, none have so far been discovered. As the -inscription which stood originally above the gateway of Great Zimbabwe, -as reported by the Arabs to the Portuguese pioneers early in the -sixteenth century,[9] has since disappeared, there are no known written -documents connecting these monuments with South Arabia or Phœnicia, -except a few scratches on the rim of an earthenware vessel figured -by Bent and by him supposed possibly to be of Himyaritic type.[10] -As, on the other hand, South Arabia is covered with Himyaritic rock -inscriptions, some of considerable length and hitherto reputed to be of -great age, their absence from Rhodesia has naturally caused surprise. -This negative argument has even by some of my critics been allowed to -outweigh the overwhelming positive evidence derived from the monuments -themselves, from the hundreds of old gold-workings already described -or recorded, from the multitude of objects—phalli, birds, conic -towers—which have been found in the ruins, and are, beyond all doubt, -intimately associated with Semitic religious observances. But I think -it may now be shown that this “negative argument” is no proof at all -of non-Semitic origins, but, on the contrary, affords strong indirect -evidence of the great antiquity of these Semitic remains in Rhodesia. - -It is to be noticed, in the first place, that although the Phœnicians -are believed to have migrated from the Persian Gulf to the -Mediterranean about three millenniums before the New Era, no Phœnician -inscriptions have yet been anywhere discovered in the Mediterranean -lands older than about the seventh or the eighth century B.C. Before -that time the Phœnicians, like the kindred Canaanites and Israelites, -were rude, uncultured peoples, with no knowledge of letters, except, -perhaps, of the hieroglyphs, cuneiforms, and other scripts of their -Egyptian, Assyro-Babylonian, Hittite, and Cretan neighbours. Even the -Moabite Stone, if it be genuine, is post-Solomonic, since its reputed -“author” was the Moabite king, Mesha, contemporary of Jehoram of Israel -and Jehoshaphat of Judah. How, then, could the unlettered Jews and -Phœnicians of the time of David, Solomon, and Hiram leave any written -records of themselves in Rhodesia? After that epoch the intercourse -with South Africa was interrupted, because “Jehoshaphat made ships of -Tharshish to go to Ophir for gold; but they went not; for the ships -were broken at Ezion-geber” (1 Kings xxii. 48). And then the star -of Jacob waned, and the scattering of the Ten Tribes of Israel was -presently followed by the dire calamities that fell upon Judah, and put -an end for ever to all further quest of treasure in the Austral seas. - -[Illustration: “FUKO-YA-NEBANDGE,” THE MASHONALAND RELIC, DISCOVERED -NEAR ZIMBABWE -(FIG. 5)] - -[Illustration: MODEL OF ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE, ZIMBABWE -(FIG. 6)] - -In the second place I find that Semitic students are gradually coming -to the conclusion that the age of the South Arabian rock inscriptions -has been greatly exaggerated, especially by Glaser, whose authority -was at first naturally accepted almost without demur. The language is, -no doubt, Himyaritic, that is to say, the oldest known form of Arabic. -But that language survived for many centuries after the New Era in the -Axumite empire, Abyssinia, where it is called _Geez_, and in Yemen -till some time after the Mohammedan irruption, and is still current in -the island of Sokotra, and in the Mahra district east of Hadramaut, -where it is called _Ehkili_. Hence the language of the inscriptions -is no test of their antiquity, though many afford intrinsic evidence -that they date certainly from at least a few hundred years before the -New Era. The subject is at present _sub judice_, and no more can be -said until the full results are known of the extensive researches now -in progress throughout Yemen. Here a large number of agents of the -French Ministère de l’Instruction Publique have been at work since -the year 1901, and thousands of impressions or rubbings have already -(1903–4) been received in Paris. Some have even begun to appear in -the _Nouveaux Textes Yéménites_, edited by M. Derenbourg, and several -of the inscriptions are stated to be in a hitherto unknown alphabet -quite different from that of the Himyaritic document which forms the -frontispiece of the _Gold of Ophir_. Great revelations may therefore be -pending; but, meanwhile, so much may, I think, be safely inferred, that -the Himyarites who first arrived in Rhodesia, worked the mines, and -built the monuments, some dating from apparently 2000 B.C., had little -or no knowledge of letters, or at least had not yet begun to cover -the rocks of their South Arabian homes with well-formed and carefully -constructed inscriptions. Thus is also explained the absence of all -such documents from their new homes in Rhodesia, where one may now -almost venture to predict that none will ever be found. Nothing can be -inferred from the vanished inscription over the Great Zimbabwe gateway, -since the gold-workings appear to have been resumed for a time by the -later (post-Mohammedan) Arabs, who were fond of decorating the façades -of their mosques and other public buildings with the ornamental but -relatively recent (eighth century) Cufic characters. - -Mention should perhaps here be made of Professor Gustav Oppert’s -_Tharshish and Ophir_ (Berlin, 1903), in which the learned author -claims to offer “a final solution” of the problem. But he leaves the -question exactly as it stood over three decades ago, is still lost in -the tangle of time-worn etymologies, and takes no notice at all of -the revelations made by Messrs. Hall and Neal in the _Ancient Ruins_. -The vast body of archæological evidence derived in recent years from -the Rhodesian remains is thus completely ignored, and fresh light -excluded from the only source whence it might have been drawn. On the -other hand, Professor Oppert, rather than admit a Tharshish in the -Indian Ocean, suggests that the _Tharshish_ of Kings and Chronicles -either means “the sea,” possibly the origin of the Greek word θἁλαττα -itself, or else was by the authors of those books foisted into the -texts instead of Ophir. Hence where _Tharshish_ occurs as the objective -of Solomon’s gold expeditions we are to read _Ophir_, although the -original Ophir is allowed to have been where I place it on the south -coast of Arabia. Now the Greek word θἁλαττα is Homeric, and when the -Homeric poems were first sung there were no Greeks in the Indian -Ocean. Hence, even if the wild etymology could be admitted, it would -not serve, and this essay cannot be accepted as “a final solution of -the old controversy.”[11] It is pleasant to be able to add that my -solution has been accepted as final by some of Professor Oppert’s -fellow-countrymen—the editor of the _Coloniale Zeitung_ amongst -others—who declares that “the problem seems now really solved.”[12] - -Let me conclude with a question. Those who still reject my solution, -who cast about for the gold of Ophir all over the Indian Ocean—Egypt, -Arabia, Persia, India—anywhere except South Africa, what do they -propose doing with the hundreds of old Rhodesian workings, which are -known to have yielded at least £75,000,000 in their time, and with -the stupendous Semitic monuments connected with these workings, of -which Mr. Hall here presents the public with scores of photographic -reproductions, drawn exclusively from the central Great Zimbabwe group? -Where does India, the spoilt child of the etymologists, stand beside -these remains, which betray such undoubted evidence of their South -Arabian origin? - - - - - GREAT ZIMBABWE[13] - - CHAPTER I - - Arrival at Great Zimbabwe—First Impressions—View - from Acropolis Hill - - -On the 21st May, 1902, I arrived at Victoria in Mashonaland, _en route_ -to the ruins of the Great Zimbabwe, which lie about seventeen miles -south-east of the township. In 1891, when the late Mr. Theodore Bent -visited Zimbabwe, he occupied exactly one week in covering the distance -between Victoria and the ruins. Unfortunately for him and his party, he -had been advised to follow the Moshagashi Valley, instead of taking the -higher ground towards the west, and consequently he experienced great -difficulty with his wagons in crossing spruits, rivers, and swamps, -which are numerous in that direction. - -There is now an excellent road to Zimbabwe, and the distance can be -covered by a cyclist well within an hour and a half, while visitors -driving can now arrive at Zimbabwe early in the morning and spend the -whole day among the ruins and yet be in town in ample time for the -evening meal. The distance by road is seventeen miles, and by a native -path cutting across country it is reduced to fifteen miles. - -Victoria is a town with barely one hundred white inhabitants. It is the -centre of the largest and finest grain country of Southern Rhodesia, -and the opening up of the gold, copper, and coal areas of the Sabi -district will tend to increase its importance. - -The Acting-Civil Commissioner, Mr. Lawlor, arranged for requisitions to -be made for stores, plant, etc., required for the work at the ruins, -and the Officer Commanding the British South Africa Police provided -wagon and ten mules to transport stores out to Zimbabwe. The Native -Commissioner, Mr. Alfred Drew, sent out M’Guti, a native police boy, -to the chief Mogabe, who lives near the ruins and rules over a large -tract of country and is practically independent, to find fifteen “boys” -(afterwards increased to forty) to be at our camp at Zimbabwe at sun-up -on Saturday. The work of collecting stores and plant filled up the rest -of the day. - -Early the following morning we loaded up the wagon and left for -Great Zimbabwe, arriving at the main ruins at midday. The wagon was -off-loaded, and in the shade of a large candelabra-shaped euphorbia -tree we lunched, while the “boys” carried the stores up on to a low -granite knoll, where were three spacious native huts, built for the -Civil Commissioner, and occupied by Lord Milner in 1897. Of course, -half the population of Mogabe’s kraal came down the kopje sides in -black strings to watch all that took place, and a jabbering, laughing, -noisy crowd they were. There was not a pair of trousers or a vest among -the lot, and all were absolutely bare, save for their aprons. I liked -their appearance better than that of the average Matabele, for they had -better and more genial faces, and were not at all haughty and reserved. - -The camp is within a few feet of the north side of No. 3 Ruins (see -map), and faces the south side of Zimbabwe Hill, and the Acropolis -Ruins are on the summit of a very precipitous cliff, 90 ft. high, -forming part of the side of the hill, the ruins being 220 ft. directly -above the camp. The camp of Mr. Theodore Bent, the archæologist, was a -third of a mile to the south of our camp. Ours is the more convenient -spot, as it is half-way between the two principal ruins, and close to -its east side lies “The Valley of Ruins,” beside which the situation is -far healthier. - -[Illustration: “TO GREAT ZIMBABWE”] - -[Illustration: HAVILAH CAMP, GREAT ZIMBABWE] - -Leaving the “boys” to move the stores and plant from our outspan up to -the huts, we started for a visit to the Elliptical Temple, which can be -seen from the camp. My friends, Mr. Herbert Hayles, of Victoria, and -Mr. J. R. A. Gell (cousin of Mr. Lyttelton Gell, one of the directors -of the British South Africa Company), had accompanied me out to -Zimbabwe to show me the lie of the Zimbabwe Reserve, and to protect me -for the first night of my stay in the event of any visits from ancient -ghosts. - -Approaching the west entrance to the Elliptical Temple one is -confronted by the following notice:— - -“_The public are warned that digging or prospecting for gold, whether -alluvial or otherwise, or for curiosities and relics of any sort -within the Zimbabwe Reserve, is strictly prohibited without special -permission, and that any person or persons found so doing or in any -way damaging any of the ruins or cutting or damaging any tree or trees -within such Reserve will be prosecuted. And notice is also hereby -given that nobody will be allowed to erect any habitation of any kind -whatever within the Reserve without special permission. By Order._”[14] - -But turning from this prosaic notice to the walls themselves, one -saw that every stone of this stupendous and imposing structure had -gained glories from the hands of Time, and yielded a magnificent -subject for the painter’s brush. The walls were white with lichen, -but on their surfaces were splashed art colourings of almost every -possible shade—bright orange and red, lemon-black, sea-green, and pale -delicate yellow—while drooping from the summits were heavy festoons of -the pink-flowered “Zimbabwe creeper.” Over the fallen blocks spread -sprays of passion flowers, convolvuli, and other delicate creepers, and -clusters of St. John’s lilies and large scarlet gladioli rose stately -above beds of rich vegetation. Here was one of Nature’s most perfect -chromographs! - -To describe this grand ruin in one chapter would be an utterly -impossible task, and any statement of one’s first impressions on -walking about the temple ’mid its massive Titanic walls must be -altogether inadequate. At any rate, one experienced an overwhelming -and oppressive sense of awe and reverence. One felt it impossible to -speak loudly or to laugh. And yet the ancient builders were what is -termed Pagan—Phallic worshippers with Baal and Astoroth among their -divinities, but a people so skilled in Zodiacal, astronomical, and -other sciences as to amaze and perplex the savants of to-day. Standing -close by the Sacred Cone, near which, according to Colonel Conder, the -Syro-Arabian archæologist, the altar was placed, one felt disinclined -for conversation. Above on a bough was a large owl, with prominent -ears and beautiful yellow eyes, who stared at our daring to trespass -on the verge of mystery. At our feet lay innumerable cast-off skins -of snakes. One thought of the poet Lowell’s _Lost Angel_, where, -speaking of a man so deadening his conscience by constant refusals to -listen to the appeals of his attendant good angel, he finds that the -angel has at last left him alone. Then was the temple of his heart -become desecrated, “the owl and snake inhabit there, the image of the -God has gone!” The owl and snake inhabit the Temple of Zimbabwe, the -altar of which is now broken down and desecrated, but the odious and -unmistakable emblems of Nature Worship are still to be found by the -score. Reverence of the hoary age of these buildings seizes one, for -some accredited archæologists give the age of some of these ruins as -anterior to the time of Moses. One wonders whether Professor Keane’s -contention is correct, that Ancient Rhodesia was the Havilah of -Genesis, especially when one thinks of the estimated £75,000,000 of -gold believed to have been taken by the Ancients from the surface of -the gold-reefs of this country before and during the Biblical-Ophir -period. - -But our stay within these massive walls was brief. The writer would -have over two years in which to wander in their labyrinthine passages, -and to examine their architectural features, and compare them with -those of Rhodesian ruins elsewhere, but his friends must start back to -Victoria before sunrise next day. On our way to the other important -ruins—the Acropolis or Hill Fortress—we visited the grave of Major Alan -Wilson and his party[15] who were killed on the Shangani during the -flight of King Lo ’Bengula in 1893. - -We climbed up the 230 feet to the Acropolis ruins, but our visit here -also was brief. We clambered round the summits of the walls of the two -temples, which have a score of monoliths still standing, more or less -erect, and penetrated some of the most intricate passages. The feeling -experienced here was one of intense wonder and bewilderment at the -stupendous walls erected at such a height, walls which must have taken -years to build, and all of granite blocks. The view from the summit -is among the finest in Rhodesia. We watched the sunset glow fading on -the white walls of the Elliptical Temple below, and then descended to -prepare the huts for the night and arrange the stores in their proper -quarters. Later, when the round moon one day off the full was shining, -we sat outside the huts watching the effects shown on the western -temple on the hill where the monoliths high up above us stood out -against the greenish moonlit sky. At 4 a.m. the mules were inspanned in -the wagon, and my friends took their departure, leaving me alone among -ruins and natives. - -As soon as the sun was fairly up, M’Guti, the native police boy, -arrived from Mogabe’s kraal, followed by a crowd of “boys,” all most -anxious for work. The majority were young men, and the total clothing -of the crowd did not amount to three square yards of calico. They all -squatted down in a semi-circle in front of the main hut while M’Guti -delivered a long oration, but as he was wearing khaki regimentals and -had his steel handcuffs (evidently a badge of authority) lying in front -of him, the sustaining influence of office possessed him. Finally, all -the details were settled, a roll was made up, and the names recorded. - -Later, the Mogabe, Handisibishe, and his headmen arrived, and a -long _indaba_ took place, M’Guti interpreting. Mogabe recognised -the likenesses of Mr. and Mrs. Bent, and that of the previous -Mogabe—Chipfuno, his brother. Salt and tobacco sent Mogabe happy away, -and next day a large gourd of _doro_ (native beer) and some sweet -potatoes arrived at the camp as a present. - -The view from the summit of the Acropolis may be described as follows:— - -_South._—Towards the south and in the nearer distance, and 250 feet -below in the valley, the venerable and lichened walls of the Elliptical -Temple rise out of luxuriantly green vegetation. So much below -the Acropolis cliffs is this temple that one sees over its broken -north walls into the interior and on to the floors of some of the -enclosures. The summit of the conical tower peeps out from among the -giant fig-trees that flourish in the interior of the building. At this -distance the white monoliths along the eastern wall, though clearly -defined against the dark foliage, seem dwarfed. In almost the same line -of view, but slightly eastwards and nearer, and on the north-east side -of the temple, is the “Valley of Ruins,” full of enclosures, passages, -entrances, and walls, which up to 1902 had remained practically -unexplored by white men. Nearer still is the wagon-track passing -Havilah Camp and winding eastwards towards the Mapaku Ruins (“Little -Zimbabwe”) and the Motelekwe[16] River seven miles distant. A hundred -yards east of the temple on an open granite space overlooking the -Valley of Ruins is the site of the camp of Dr. Schlichter, who visited -the Zimbabwe ruins in 1897. Immediately behind this spot and between it -and the foot of the Bentberg (_Motusa_) is the veld land ploughed by -Messrs. Posselt in 1888–9. - -[Illustration: GREAT ZIMBABWE RESERVE] - -Still looking south and slightly eastwards of the temple is the -Schlichter Gorge, down which the Mapudzi flows towards the south. -At the southern end of the gorge is a succession of ranges of kopjes -of fantastic shape descending into, and again rising from, the -Mowishawasha Valley, and becoming lost in the blue distance. The -Bentberg Kopje, which forms a dark background for the temple, shows its -immense flanks of granite glacis and boulders. Here some fifty years -ago was the chief local kraal of the Barotse, who had settlements among -the Makalanga of this part of the country, and on the north-eastern -side of the hill are still to be seen the remains of ancient walls, -while a clump of castor-oil trees at the foot of the hill on this side -marks the site of Theodore Bent’s camp (June and July, 1891). - -Slightly to the west of the temple and almost immediately in front -of it are No. 1 Ruins, the walls of which are crowned with aloes and -euphorbias. Less than a hundred yards west of these ruins are the -Ridge Ruins, on a bare granite ridge, on the east side of which was -the camp of Sir John Willoughby, who excavated portions of the ruins -(November and December, 1892). Fifty yards behind the Ridge Ruins is -the Zimbabwe Spring, marked by a group of trees, where most excellent -water can be obtained, even during the driest season. It was close -to these trees that Messrs. Posselt had their camp in 1888–9. Nearer -than Ridge Ruins is the little graveyard where is the granite tomb of -Major Alan Wilson and his party. Just a few yards nearer is Havilah -Camp, where one can just see the natives moving to and fro across the -open spaces between the huts. Behind the Bentberg and further south is -broken country, with Lumbo Rocks, one of the landmarks of the district, -rising from the summit of a rugged hill like a column piled up against -the sky, its lichen mantle showing brilliant red in the sunset. Here -is the line of high ground which separates the plateau of Mashonaland -from the lower valley of the Limpopo River, the incline in the contour -being both steep and abrupt. This also divides the watershed of -the Motelekwe from that of the Tokwe.[17] In this southern view are -scattered many Makalanga kraals, several of which are perched up in -almost inaccessible rocky eyries; also some romantic valleys, kloofs, -and stretches of park-like land studded with patches of thick woods. - -[Illustration: GENERAL PLAN OF ZIMBABWE RUINS showing the general -position of each ruin ] - -_South-west._—Looking towards the south-west and in the near distance -is the rising ground between the Bentberg and Rusivanga[18] kopjes, -and the native path leading over it to Bingura’s kraal. At the foot of -Rusivanga and 150 yards from Havilah Camp, and on a knoll on which is -a large old tree, was for some time the camp of Adam Renders, known by -the natives as _Sa-adama_, who rediscovered Zimbabwe in 1868, and who -was here visited by Mr. George Philips, the ivory trader of the very -early days, and by Dr. Karl Mauch, the latter of whom gave in 1871 the -first information of the ruins for almost three hundred years. Here -Renders traded extensively for ivory. Previously to Dr. Mauch’s visit -Renders lived at Nini, eleven miles south-west of Zimbabwe. - -Beyond the nearer ridge is a deep and wide valley on the near side of -which is Bingura’s kraal, and from this valley the land rises towards -the southern extremity of the Livouri Mountains some ten miles from -Zimbabwe, and in the immediate distance, though much nearer the Livouri -Range, is Providential Pass, through which the hunter, Mr. F. C. -Selous, led the Pioneer Column in 1890. In the same line of view, but -slightly nearer, is where Renders’ first station was located. - -_West._—Looking due west there are two kopjes—Rusivanga and -Makuma—which close in the Zimbabwe Valley on that side at a third of -a mile distance. Further west of the two kopjes is a wide undulating -valley some six or eight miles wide which runs along the east side of -the Livouri Mountains, and this is studded at intervals with low and -bare granite kopjes. The kraal of the dynastic chief Cherimbila is at -Rovali, at the southern extremity of the range. The highest point of -the Livouri is Niande, a hill in the centre of this range with steep -and almost inaccessible sides. Behind the Livouri Range is seen the -high conical summit of the Cotopaxi Mountain, which forms one of the -principal landmarks of this portion of Southern Mashonaland. Towards -the south end of the Livouri Range is a large hill called Mowishawasha. -_Washa_ is always associated by the natives with power and authority. -The natives never climb to the top of this hill without going through -some form of devotion on their way up; also on passing close to the -hill they will stop and clap hands. Natives will not state the actual -reason. Probably an important Makalanga chief of some past times was -buried there. Near to this hill is a smaller one known as Tchib-Fuko, -which also has some native superstitions attached to it. It was in this -district the wooden platter with the zodiacal signs was discovered by -Mr. Edward Muller, also the pot “Fuko-ya-Nebandge.” - -_North-west._—To the north-west, and on the opposite side of the valley -at the foot of Zimbabwe Hill, and beyond the _Outer Defence Wall_ which -encloses the Zimbabwe ruins on the west and north sides, is a low -granite knoll called Pasosa, with outlying huts belonging to Mogabe’s -kraal. A few yards behind the huts is a ruin (Pasosa, No. 1), with a -second ruin (Pasosa, No. 2) 60 yards farther north. The country beyond -in this direction is the valley land of the Moshagashi River, which -is some six to eight miles broad, the horizon showing low hills, over -which are the line of houses and trees of Victoria township, fifteen -miles distant as the crow flies, and beyond again are the uplands of -the range north of Victoria. The principal kraals in this direction are -Baranzimba’s (two miles) and M’Tima’s (three and a half miles). - -[Illustration: VIEW FROM ACROPOLIS SHEWING THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE IN THE -VALLEY, ZIMBABWE] - -_North._—In the north is the lower continuation of the Moshagashi -Valley, at this point some eight miles broad. Here the granite -formation of Zimbabwe terminates and the slate commences. The principal -kraal, and by far the largest in this area, is that of Chinongu, which -is four miles from Zimbabwe. Extending from N.N.W. to N.N.E. are the -high and romantically shaped Besa Mountains, and at their eastern -extremity can be seen in the blue distance the Lovugwe country. - -_North-east._—To the north-east, at a distance of eight miles and -cutting the sky-line, is the range of the Inyuni Hills. Their sides are -exceedingly steep and, being slate, their contours contrast pleasantly -with those of the kopjes of the granite formation. In the nearer -distance is Motuminshaba, a granite kopje four miles away, and farther -east Tchivi, another granite kopje three miles distant. The land -towards the east-north-east descends to the Motelekwe River, the valley -of which can be seen with Arowi, a huge, isolated granite kopje rising -twelve miles distant, on the far bank of the Motelekwe. In this area -kraals are numerous. - -_East._—The Beroma Range (written by Bent as “Veroma”) fills in the -whole of the background towards the east. These hills, which run north -and south, appear to be fully four miles long. The most northerly -point of this range is formed by a large rounded granite kopje called -Sueba,[19] and between this hill and Chenga’s[20] kraal is the path -leading over the nek to the Mapaku Ruins (“Little Zimbabwe”) eight -miles distant. On the west side of Beroma is a line of lower hills -forming its shoulders. The southern end of the Beroma Range is formed -by the high rounded Mount Marsgi, with a series of cliffs on its west -side, and at its base M’Tijeni’s kraal. Marsgi overlooks the Schlichter -Gorge. This is the point from which our description started. - - - - - CHAPTER II - - MYSTIC ZIMBABWE - - Sunday Morning and Midnight in an Ancient Temple—Sunset on the - Acropolis. - - -Wandering about the Elliptical Temple at Zimbabwe on a Sunday morning -one is faced at every turn with texts for innumerable “sermons in -stones.” The hoary age of these massive walls is grandly and silently -eloquent of a dead religion—a religion which was but the blind -stretching forth of the hand of faith groping in the Dawn of Knowledge -for the Deity and seeking the Unknown. Lowell urges that none should -call any faith “vain” which in the evolution of religion has led -mankind up to a higher level. The builders were “Pagans.” Granted, but -the world four thousand years ago was in its infancy, and infancy is -but a necessary prelude to development in any department of life and -thought. The progressive stages of Old Testament faith demonstrate this -fact most patently. We of the Christian Era, with our two thousand -years of religious enlightenment, have yet to learn of the “many things -I have to say unto you, but ye cannot bear them now.” The evolution of -the Christian Ideal has not yet reached its final stage—it has still to -be perfected. But the period of infancy in development should not be -too hastily condemned as “vain.” - -The spires that adorn our churches, the orientation of ecclesiastical -buildings, the eastward position of the dead, the candles on the -altars, and what is more, the idea conveyed by sacrificial offering, -have their origin in the ancient faiths and world-wide litholatrous -and solar ideas of the Semitic peoples, whether of Yemen or Phœnicia, -who built their temples in every part of the then known world which -came under their influence. In these, as in many more such instances, -parallelisms become identities, but identities adapted by the Christian -Church to convey in an old-world form a figure of a higher faith. The -continuity between this old temple at Zimbabwe, Stonehenge, and the -modern cathedral, is complete. - -When one reviews the forms and practices, so far as they are known, -of the Semitic builders of the Great Zimbabwe, what a flood of light -shines in upon the history and worship of the Hebrews. The writings -of the Prophets live afresh, and the mystic chapters of Job become -full of pregnant meaning. A key is provided to the secret of Abraham -offering his son, to Jacob’s pile of stones, to Jephthah’s vow, to -the Syro-Phœnician woman’s conversation at the well, and to a hundred -points of biblical lore which would otherwise barely attract attention, -much less provoke interest. These old Semites—of whom the Hebrews were -a younger branch—stinted not their worship, and knew the ecstasy of -sacrifice. Their best beloved they gave—their dearest, in the belief -that the gift which was offered without a pang was not prized by -Deity. Bearing this in mind, the Old Testament is found to be replete -with unfailing interest, charm, and point; it becomes, in fact, a -marvellously new book even to the biblical student. - -The builders of the temple at Zimbabwe have now, it is believed, -slept through three millenniums, if not four, yet the religious faith -of the Semitic family was so strong, so real, and so forceful, that -its ramifications can be found in the faith of the Christian Church -of to-day. Nor can this be wondered at. One has but to glance round -these temple walls to read in granite blocks the fact that to the -builders their religious faith was of primal importance. Here is -clearly envisaged the fact that to them their religion was very real, -so much so that were Europe devastated to-morrow, it could scarcely -show in proportion to its other buildings such monuments to religious -faith as can be seen in Rhodesia to-day. Their finest art, their best -constructive skill, and the patient labour of long years, were lavished -upon these buildings which thickly stud the country. Thoroughness and -devotion are written large on the orientated, massive, and grandly -sweeping walls of the Elliptical Temple at Great Zimbabwe. One cannot -call their faith “vain” when one realises that it led them out from -themselves towards something higher, while for them it must be -remembered the True Light had not shined. Struggling though blindly to -improve their relationship to Deity provided a no mean factor in the -religious progress of the world. - -While these ancient Semitic colonisers of Rhodesia have slept their -many-centuried sleep, what epochs of the world’s history have come -and gone, and what empires have risen and decayed! Ah! see that -lichen-mantled granite block low down in the cyclopean wall. It has a -little chip of stone under one corner as if to steady it. The ancient -mason was a careful worker. The chip is still there to-day. One can -move it with a finger. Was it there when Moses led the Hebrews towards -the Promised Land, or there when young Joseph was sold as a slave into -Egypt? Who shall say? Civilisations have come and gone, but the chip is -there, and affords not merely an evidence of the careful mason, but a -sermon on the brevity of life, the utter smallness of pomp and power, -and the absolute absurdity of pride. Still the little granite chip has -served its purpose for some four thousand years, and it may yet be -there occupying its humble position at the end of the next millennium. -The oldest fanes of Europe, whether of Greece or Rome, cannot so -deeply move to awe-inspiring feeling as can the massive walls of the -temple at Zimbabwe, for these old empires are believed to have been -almost unborn when Zimbabwe was at its zenith. Thus the walls compel a -listening to their sermons. - -As one strays through the Sacred Enclosure, thoughts come:—What were -the relative positions of magic and religion, especially in the -complicated and closely observed Phallic worship of these ancients; -whence the zodiacal, astronomical, and geometrical knowledge of the -builders; what of the touch of tragedy in their exodus or departure; -the exact meaning of the granite, slate, and carved soapstone monoliths -on the summits of the walls; the origin of the occupiers; was Rhodesia -the Havilah of Genesis; did it provide the Solomonic gold; of the close -kinship of these successful ancient gold-seekers from Yemen or Tyre and -Sidon to the Hebrews of Palestine; and of their intimate connection in -origin, language, and neighbourhood which Holy Writ abundantly declares -existed from the ninth chapter of Genesis until Paul preached in -Phœnicia? - -Gazing at the Sacred Tower, one thinks of the Tower of Siloam, and of -the “high places” of Samaria, and of the times when even this form of -worship became the state religion of Judah under Ahaziah; and sitting -at the conjectured site of the ancient altar, where the writer has -found in numbers the stone emblems of their faith, thoughts arise of -the Bethel stones of the Hebrews, the Bethûl or “the dwelling-places -of God” of the Phœnicians, and the Penuel or “Face of God” of the -Midianites. - -The Law of Moses adapts the rules and customs and ideas and forms of -worship of far greater antiquity than the Mosaic times. So the new -faith of every age borrows from the old, and the mighty processions of -civilisations and faiths which have encircled this earth from very far -back beyond the days of Abraham go on their even course. - -But we must leave the temple and return to camp. There is still the -great Zimbabwe owl sitting on his favourite bough near the “high -place.” The six-foot python crawls in and out of the stones of the -ancient altar. Brightly coloured lizards bask on the once consecrated -walls. Blue jays, honey-birds, and doves here find a shelter. The -trees, orchid-clad and lichen-festooned, throw a weird shadow over all. -Possibly ancients are sleeping near. - -As one passes out through the entrance into the full glare of an -African noontide, one feels as if one had just returned from the far -distant mystic past to modern life, for a naked Makalanga waits there -with the message that Sunday lunch was cooked and waiting. - - • • • • • - -_Midnight in an ancient temple._—It was the night of the full moon -nearest to Midsummer Day in the Southern Hemisphere, and towards -midnight the large population of Makalanga round Zimbabwe would be -celebrating the feast of the full moon with dancing, singing, and -_doro_ drinking. This was evidently a special feast, for its advent -had been the theme of conversation among our labourers for the past -fortnight, and, unlike the other feasts, it was held simultaneously in -each kraal, and not at different kraals in turn on alternate occasions. - -At nine o’clock all was still and restful. There were no signs whatever -of the forthcoming festivities. Passing through Baranazimba’s kraal, -on the way to Havilah Camp at Zimbabwe, one found the population had -retired to rest. At Mogabe’s kraal the only sign of active life was -shown by the village dogs. The night was hot and close, and outside -the huts natives were sleeping, each in his blanket. Arrived at -Havilah Camp, one found a score of labourers, sublimely free from all -anxieties, sleeping on the bare granite outside their huts, but so -oppressive was the air that in their slumbers they had thrown off their -blankets, and were lying in every conceivable posture, and snoring and -talking in their sleep as if dancing and beer-drinking were matters -that had not the slightest interest for them. The large full moon -was yet some distance from its zenith, but the valleys were flooded -with a greenish-grey mistiness, which lay over the high grass and -ran up into the kloofs and gorges. The light made distant objects -distinctly visible, throwing a mantle of romance over every clump, -ridge, and kopje, while it was possible to read tolerably small print -without the aid of artificial light. - -[Illustration: CONICAL TOWER AND PLATFORM (LOOKING SOUTH), ELLIPTICAL -TEMPLE, ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: THE BALCONY, EASTERN TEMPLE, ACROPOLIS -THE PARAPET IS BUILT UPON THE SUSPENDED BOULDER] - -For fully another hour the silence was unbroken. At last the desultory -beating of a village drum at Mogabe’s kraal was heard. Later a drum -was sounded at Chenga’s kraal, and another at Bingura’s kraal. The -villagers were waking up for the feast. One of our labourers sat up, -stretched himself and yawned, and commenced shaking his sleeping -comrades. Within a few minutes Havilah Camp was all life. One native -reached for his leggings of large nuts with dried kernels inside, -others a horn, flute, piano, or harp, but all took two knobkerries, -some having assegais. Those who possessed strings of wild-cat tails -tied them round their waists. The early hours of evening had been -devoted to greasing their bodies and limbs, and in the light of the -moon their skins shone like burnished metal. Then began a general -practising of dance steps, leapings, war-cries, and most hideous -howlings. Meanwhile quite a dozen drums were being sounded up on -Mogabe’s Kopje, and these were answered by similar numbers at Chenga’s -and the other kraals. Horns were blown, parties of Makalanga, singing -and shouting, were passing along the native tracks in front of our -camp, each party going to its own kraal. Soon our labourers left -in gangs for their respective villages and disappeared in the long -mist-covered grass. Being all young men with a superabundant fund -of spirits, they made a most fearful din in the course of their -progress homewards. By this time the Zimbabwe kopjes resounded with -singing, especially of girls’ singing, for the women-folk started the -festivities with screams and yells, and the loud beatings in three-two -time of innumerable drums. The great full moon was now fast approaching -its zenith. Our camp, save for the watch-men, the _kya_ (hut) boy, and -the picaninni, once more became still and lifeless. - -Theodore Bent saw in these new and full-moon feasts some connection -with the cult of Nature Worship of the ancient Semites, who are -believed to have built these ruins and to have mined for gold in -Southern Rhodesia, as it is conjectured, some three thousand years -ago. The women, who at this moment are dancing in the villages, -have on their bare stomachs, worked into the skin, a “breast and -furrow pattern,” identical to that found on many of the oldest of -the prehistoric relics discovered in our ancient ruins, an undoubted -emblem, Bent contended, of the ancient conception of Fertility. The -men who will be dancing have worked in their skins, mainly in bands -round their waists, the three radiating bars, similar in form to the -Welsh bardic emblem of the Origin of Life. The articles they will -wield in their dancing are carved with chevron pattern, one of the -most ancient of all emblems of Fertility. But although the flesh -decorations are now merely luck signs, neither man nor woman would on -any account be without them. With these signs they say they will not -be sick, will have plenty of wives and boys to work for them, and many -girls on account of whom to receive _lobola_ (marriage present to the -father—practically purchase money). Anon, in the pauses of the dance, -they will drink beer from pots with herring-bone pattern encircling the -lips, a beer made of red millet, prepared, says Bent, in the same way -and known by the same name as the beer prepared in Arabia to-day, where -its methods of preparation and its name have been handed down from -immemorial age. - -But to-night will be the finest opportunity for the next twelve months -of seeing the Elliptical Temple by moonlight. Sleep this hot, close -night is impossible, especially with the sounds of noisy revelry -proceeding simultaneously from all points of the compass. My native -boy is disinclined to follow me to the temple, but after bargaining -with him for an _Isi-hle_ (present), he at last grudgingly consents. -He mutters something about the place being bewitched, that there are -many horrid things there, and alludes to the _M’uali_, the chief spirit -of Makalanga awe and dread; but as within the two years’ residence at -Zimbabwe I have only discovered two natives, and these elderly men, who -would willingly go into any of the ruins, especially the temple, after -darkness had settled down, I am not at all surprised at his reluctance -to follow me there. However, he is mindful to take his stoutest -knobkerries with him. - -Looking back at the Acropolis Hill, and at its long line of precipice, -one sees the ancient walls on the summit gleaming white in the -moonlight, while the tall monoliths stand clear against the sky. In -the passages on the hill one might almost expect on such a night to -come face to face with Rider Haggard’s She at any corner, or to see -her draped form issuing from one of the numerous caves which still -pierce the cliffs. But we must turn our backs on the Acropolis Hill, -and make for the Elliptical Temple, passing the little graveyard -where the remains of Major Alan Wilson and his Shangani heroes rest -in their granite tomb in the grove of euphorbia trees, whose branches -cast black, sharp-cut shadows on the ground. Then across an open -granite space, and up the long parallel passage on the east side of -Ridge Ruins, out through its intricate southern entrance, and on to -the level ground which runs up to the foot of the temple walls. The -clumps of tall, old-world-looking aloes and euphorbia trees lining the -walls of No. 1 Ruins on the left of our path appear strange even by -daylight, but in the midnight radiance of the full moon they assume -intensely weird and fantastic forms thoroughly in harmony with the -outlines of the ancient buildings. The lonely grave of Thomas Bailey, -an Australian gold prospector, lies close to the right-hand side of -the path. He died in 1893 while searching for relics within the temple. - -The temple walls covered with white lichen appear to have been -whitewashed for centuries, and these gleam brightly with light in -distinct contrast to the dark veld and bush from which they rise; and -so white are they that at a fair distance one can see every course, -block, and joint in their dry masonry. The broad bases of the walls -in comparison with the widths of their summits—though a full-sized -wagon and a team of sixteen oxen could stand upon the top of the more -substantial portion of the walls—their sloping sides, and the utter -absence of any feature of any style of architecture known in Western -Europe, lend a strikingly Eastern appearance to the building, which is -sufficient in itself to forcibly take one’s mind back some two or three -thousand years. Meanwhile the noise of village drums, the blowing of -horns, and the deep wild choruses of crowds of men, mingled with the -voices of women and girls, were waxing louder and more incessant as -midnight approached. - -Standing in No. 5 Enclosure, just within the west entrance, the -interior of the temple is seen to be full of light and shadow. But all -is serenely calm and still as if possessed by the silence of the grave. -The high, massive walls encircling the temple deaden to faintness the -voices of the villagers. The close air, heavy with the scent of verbena -wafted in from the veld, is oppressive in the extreme. An inexplicable -sensation of trespassing in forbidden precincts possesses one. The -native looks scared. Midnight visits to ruins are not his particular -fancy. - -Certainly the many visitors who travel hundreds, if not thousands, of -miles to view these ruins, and who only see them by the glare of day, -miss nine-tenths of the charm, fascination, and inspiration which the -walls of the temple at Zimbabwe have in store for those who walk its -courts in the stillness of the night when the midsummer moon is at the -full. This is the time to see Zimbabwe aright, for Zimbabwe by day and -Zimbabwe by night presents two entirely different aspects. - -Trees throw gigantic shadows on the walls and darken the inner -courts, and the floors are chequered by moonbeams shining through -the foliage overhead. One somehow becomes possessed with the idea -that these walls are peopled with the spirits of prehistoric age, -who are moving, as of old, about the temple floors and passages, -still performing their ancient priestly offices. The movement of -every shadow against the walls suggests the passing from point to -point of some three-millenniumed spectral form, too engrossed in its -sacred avocations to heed the mortal presence of two strangers of the -twentieth century after Christ. Would that these hoary-aged walls could -speak and tell us of the scenes which took place here when the Great -Zimbabwe was in all its glory! Assuredly a midnight hour spent in this -ancient temple overwhelms one with most novel sensations, some slightly -queer and shivery, others awe-inspiring and soul-stirring. - -While still standing just inside the west entrance some thoughts -suggest themselves. The ancients being Nature worshippers of one of -the earliest cults, so says Bent, had sought in the erection of their -temple to compel the concentration of thought on the heavens alone, for -even the reduced heights of the summits of the walls, averaging from 22 -ft. to 31 ft., shut off, except for gaps, all views of the surrounding -landscape. Nothing is visible save the moon and a skyful of silent, -glittering stars. The Pleiades, by the rising and setting of which the -Makalanga mark their sowing and harvesting, are sinking towards the -W.N.W. horizon, and Orion, which is prominent in the star-pictures -of the natives, is following down in their wake. A large area of the -sky is hidden by the bright radiance of the full moon. But such high -massive walls enclosing the temple, and limiting the view to the sky -alone, strike the mind of the stranger unread in the lore of ancient -Semitic faiths as the purposed design of the ancient architects, -especially so when it is recollected that some of the ancient floors -are at a much lower level than the interiors as seen to-day. And just -as Britishers in Rhodesia unconsciously turn their gaze at night -towards the stars which lie low near the northern horizon, so in the -contracted view afforded by the temple walls we can well imagine that -during their midnight vigils the eyes of the ancient colonists from -the north would, as naturally, frequently and lingeringly glance over -the northern wall to gaze on stars known to them in their Homeland. It -may be noted, too, that the ancients, as conjectured by Bent and other -writers, do not appear to have been greatly interested in the alien -stars of the Southern Hemisphere, for in all the ruins in Rhodesia, -so far as discoveries have been made, there are no massive stone arcs -surmounted with monoliths with mural decorations of old-world emblems -of fertility on their outer faces, and with the raised platforms -approached by steps, facing towards the south, for all such that are -known are directed to some other point of the compass. - -Small fragments of granite chips from ancient blocks lie about the -floor, and these gleam like stars on the dark ground, and have -light-haloes of their own. These suggest the splendid sight these -ancient walls must have been when all the newly dressed granite -blocks in the faces of the walls sparkled as they must once have done -as the fragments gleamed in this glorious moonlight. The walls must -have glittered like a fairy palace, as did the castle walls of lordly -Camelot. To-day we approach the temple on the same level as the veld, -the ground outside having been raised to this level by the silt of -ages, but the recently discovered granite cement floors outside the -building show that the ancients had to ascend some five feet or more -to gain the threshold of the entrance. With such higher elevation for -its walls, the temple, when freshly built, or perhaps for centuries -afterwards, must have been on moonlit nights a most bewitching sight of -splendour. But its glories to-night are those which it has gained from -the hand of Time. - -But on gaining the central area of the building the inexplicable -sensations awakened by the weird and strange surroundings and past -associations are intensified, and one’s nerves are forced to be more -alive to anything unusual happening. Large bats and night-moths fly -unpleasantly close to one’s face. Treading on a rotten stick, and the -falling of large dry leaves which rattle on the stones below, make -noises sufficient to cause one to turn round expecting the approach -of some ancient spectre. A frog in some dark and dank corner startles -one with a loud croak of “_Work!_” The hoot of an owl makes the native -start. A low moaning, soughing wind now springing up sweeps round the -temple and rustles in the upper branches of the trees. - -The temple is now lovely in the extreme. The shadows on the walls are -now in quick movement. Fireflies swing their tiny lamps over dark -enclosures. The white radiance of the moonlight completely invests the -conical tower, its intense whiteness being heightened by the large, -thick, and dark-foliaged trees on either side. If but Time’s hour-glass -were turned back for some long centuries’ space, what tales could not -this tower unfold, what secrets of ancient faiths disclose! - -One passes down the ancient stairs, lately uncovered, which lead into -the Sacred Enclosure, and finds the long, deep-sunk Parallel Passage -wrapt in sepulchral darkness, and realises the force of the dark lore -of ancient priestcraft and of prayers muttered at midnight. It is -pleasant to regain the interior of the temple, where broad streams -of moonlight flood its surface. Seated on the east wall of No. 10 -Enclosure, and immediately facing the conical tower, one has a good -view all round the temple. Under the dark shades of walls and trees -a hundred spectres might be lurking unseen. Amidst such surroundings -a score of ancient scenes are pictured in one’s mind—the approaching -priests with processional chant emerging through the north entrance -from the Sacred Enclosure, the salutation to the emblems of the gods, -the light of altar fire and torch reflected upon the walls and upon -the sacred golden fillets bound round the brows of the priest, the -incense-laden air, the subdued murmurings of the waiting crowd of -worshippers, the invocations of the deity by priests who stand upon the -high raised platform in front of the conical tower, the mystic rites, -dark enchantments, and the pious orgies. The very air feels as if it -were teeming with mystery and midnight loneliness. Here appear to rise -“_the thin throng of ghosts ... with beckoning hands and noiseless feet -flitting from shade to shade_.” - -The rising wind now wafts into the ancient shrine the confused -shouting, singing, tom-tom beating, and general clamour of the natives -dancing in the villages on the hills around. The air has become -decidedly cooler. One is glad to have visited the temple at this hour. -It is one of the experiences of a lifetime. - - • • • • • - -_The Acropolis at sunset._—In the soft sunlight of a glorious late -afternoon, when calm broods over all and a profound solitude invests -the immense panorama of valley, mountain, and sea of jagged kopje -ranges as beheld from the summit of the Acropolis Hill some 300 ft. at -least above the Zimbabwe Valley, one views a scene of indescribable -loveliness. The sharp-cut ranges of hills, deep gorges flanked by -cliffs, great crags of rock, and the long and broad Moshagashi Valley -with its scattered kraals and patches of native plantations are all as -silent as sleep. - -The Acropolis itself is still. The long and labyrinthine passages give -back no echoes. The temple courts are empty. The tall monoliths, like -ghostly sentinels, point upwards to the sky, and the sunlight is fast -fading on the ancient dentelle pattern at the Western Temple. These -massive ruins, once teeming with a dense and busy population of Semitic -colonists of prehistoric times, with their innumerable evidences of -Phallic worship and extensive gold-smelting operations, are as quiet as -the grave. The cry of a baboon, or scream of an eagle returning to its -eyrie high up on the cliffs above the Eastern Temple, alone break the -impressive silence enfolding one of the greatest archæological wonders -of the Southern Hemisphere. - -At this height and on a hill so isolated from its neighbours, and -just at sunset when shadows are already gathering in the deep defiles -in the cliffs upon its summit, an inexpressible sensation of intense -loneliness and solitude asserts itself. No other human foot will tread -these ancient approaches to the Acropolis till the sun has risen once -again. There is no white man round about for miles, and the natives -will not venture near the ruins after sunset. Two hours ago the herd -was mindful to drive the goats from the high points on the face of -the hill down into the valley. The natives will solemnly inform the -stranger that as night approaches the spirits of their departed -ancestors buried in the caves of the hill awaken, that the ruins are -then bewitched. It may be easily understood that in minds made craven -with centuries of slavery to a succession of invaders, and haunted, -till the last decade, with constant dread of Swazi and Matabele raids, -the standard of Makalanga valour is low indeed, and that at nights they -shun these scenes of ancient life is not in the least surprising. - -Ascending the hill through the sunless Rock Passage, the air is cool -and draughty, but on emerging at the upper end one is faced by the rich -blinding glow of the setting sun, and here the air is still warm. As -we pass through the Western Enclosure and through the gap in the main -west wall of the Western Temple, a view down the sheer drop of the -hill into the valley below presents itself. The Elliptical Temple is -just losing its last faint touches of the golden tint of sunset. The -“Valley of Ruins” is already in shadow, and its chaos of walls looks -now even more chaotic and bewildering than it did in the full light of -day. Mogabe’s cattle wending their way up Makuma Kopje to the kraal for -the night, the bleating of sheep and goats already penned, the far-away -talk of women and girls returning from collecting firewood with their -bundles on their heads, and the laughter of small parties of natives -returning homewards from their plantations, all speak of departing -day. The lofty lichened sides of Lumbo Rocks are still bright orange -in the sunset, but the nearer side of the Bentberg has become dark and -black in shadow, showing up the walls of the Elliptical Temple in the -foreground with striking clearness. The long ravine of Schlichter Gorge -is now blurred in grey distances, while the Motelekwe and Mowishawasha -valleys have already lost the sun for some minutes. The kopjes cast the -same backgammon-board-shaped shadows across the valleys just as they -did three and four thousand years ago when the tired ancients watched -the drawing-in of day. - -But turning a glance round to the Western Temple, still at this height -bathed in golden sheen, one sees only the ancient walls and passages -silent and deserted. This area might have been a busy spot for the -ancient occupiers at this hour of the day, for monoliths, decorative -mural patterns, and conical towers are now all aglow with sunset -brightness, and here at this time of day, as the shadow of the slanting -granite beam fades on the dentelle pattern on the platform, they might -have read as on a dial face, in light and shade, the progress of -the season of the year. The call to prayers and the chanting of the -evening hymn of the devout at sunset might at this same hour very many -centuries ago have rung round the selfsame hallowed walls which look -down sphinx-like and blankly upon the modern visitor. - -It is easy to fashion a tale of ancient scenes in such a spot and ’mid -such surroundings. Such a scene may have been—the parties of ancient -worshippers approaching the temple up the Higher Parapet or by the -sunken passage in the Platform Enclosure, or along the East Passage, -filling the amphitheatre and watching the bringing of the sacred -vessels possibly from the now dank and evil-smelling Platform Cave to -some spot near the centre of the temple, perchance at the centre of the -arc of the great curved wall, which is directed towards the setting -sun; the disappearance of the priests through the Covered Passage and -their reappearance on the Platform, which faces west and overlooks -the interior of the temple, or listening to priestly orations, the -announcement of the actual sunset to the worshippers. Possibly, too, -the chief priest may have announced the commencement of the “Feast of -the New Moon.” - -At this moment the “boys” in Havilah Camp are yelling and dancing most -frantically. Something unusual must have happened to cause the sudden -outbreak of unearthly din. Right in the dazzling glow of the sun, and -low down in the sky, and barely discernible by the eye of white men, -is the slender silver scimitar of the young moon. A noisy night of -beer-drinking, dancing and singing, and tom-tom beating will follow. - -But the dank smell of decay has now usurped the place of the -sweet-smelling incense of the ancient ritual. The monoliths still point -upwards, but who to-day can explain their plan and purpose, or read the -silent intimations their shadows were wont to convey? - -The associations of the ruins of the Hill Fortress lie even more with -the ancient military occupiers than with those of priests and worship. -Traverses, buttresses, screen walls, intricate entrances, narrow and -sunken passages, rampart walls, banquettes, parapets, and all other -devices of a people conversant with military engineering and defence, -are in great evidence all over the hill. These in their ingenuity, -massive character, and persistent repetition at every point of vantage, -baffle and astonish the best experts of modern military engineering -science. The ancients were military strategists, and the Acropolis a -stronghold, and its most prominent feature was defence. - -At this sunset hour no companies of ancient soldiery descend from -the fort (East Ruins), at the foot of the Ancient Ascent, to relieve -guard and take up their night watches on the wall barriers. In the -now dim and scanty twilight one can wander at will through the two -hill temples, the residential quarters, and into the caves which once -might have held the gold stores of this part of the country. There is -no officer on duty to challenge one’s approach. The sentry recesses -in the narrow passages and at the entrances appear singularly empty. -Fate finally came to relieve guard many centuries past, eventually -permitting some semi-civilised Abantu people, such as the Makalanga, or -“People of the Sun,” to desecrate the ancient temple floors with their -copper and iron furnaces and bone and ash débris heaps. But the lively -bustling crowds of ancients and of mediæval Makalanga, who both in -turn, and for very long periods, densely populated Zimbabwe Hill, are -no more. - -One passes along shoulder-wide and tortuous passages, where at every -corner one might expect to come face to face with Rider Haggard’s She, -and enters some enclosure whose sides are formed by the perpendicular -flanks of cliffs and boulders, where the ancients fashioned their gold -into beads, wire, plates, and ingots. The intricate entrance still -guards the spot where gold crucibles, beaten gold, and gold burnishing -tools of the ancient artificers have been found in profusion. There is -now no sound of hammering the precious metal on the rounded dolorite -anvils, nor reddish glow of light on the cliff sides, as when the -furnace was uncovered for the removal of the heated crucibles. The -prehistoric workshop is now desolate and damp, and a fitting spot for -the loathsome, crawling creatures which inhabit its dark recesses. - -But daylight is dying fast. Glancing down through the gaps in the outer -walls are seen specks of firelight at near and remote kraals where the -evening meal is being prepared, and round which the advent of the new -moon will soon be celebrated. An adjoining cave with yawning depth -and dense blackness does not now appear particularly inviting to the -visitor, and yet here relic-seekers unanimously declare was where the -ancients kept large stores of gold dust. The Eastern Temple is in -semi-darkness, but as one crosses its floor one sees the hole from -which some fifty phalli were taken, and the exact spots from which -soapstone birds were removed. Here was the site, as Bent conjectured, -of the ancient altar. In this temple, it is believed, the ancients -celebrated their daybreak ritual, for the arc of the main wall -decorated with dentelle pattern, and on which once stood some of the -soapstone birds, faces the rising of the sun. Passing along Central -Passage, which is perpetually in shadow owing to huge tall boulders -on either side, but is now in deepest blackness, crossing Cleft Rock -Enclosure, and descending the sunken passage to the outer face of the -great west wall of the Western Temple, one arrives where a slight -afterglow of the sunset still lingers over the brow of Rusivanga. - -Again one enters into the deep shadow of a sunken and earth-smelling -passage with high side walls, and so rapidly descends the north-west -face of the hill, glad to emerge once more into the cool fresh air -at a lower level of some 100 ft. High in the west is Venus, the -evening star, shining brightly—Venus, or _Almaq_, “illuminating,” -the goddess of the earlier star-worshipping Sabæans of Yemen, whose -worship the best-qualified scientists believe was practised by the -original builders of Zimbabwe. She complacently shines down upon her -ruined shrines, and wonders doubtless why these natives should convert -the sacred emblems of her worship into pipe-bowls for smoking hemp. -The Pleiades have set, for the harvest time is almost over. Orion is -sinking towards the western horizon as if with disgust at the land -where mere Kafirs[21] call him “The little pig and two dogs.” - - - - - CHAPTER III - - A DAY AT HAVILAH CAMP, ZIMBABWE - - -Early to bed, our Makalanga labourers are proportionately early to -rise, and as soon as there is sufficient light to enable them to see -they are up, stretching their limbs, waking the echoes of the valley -with their noisy yawnings, which jar on the lilt of the dawn-anthems of -the birds, and sit crouching round fires with their blankets over their -shoulders. - -The sun will soon be coming up behind the blue Beroma Range, just -over the romantically shaped rocks at Chenga’s kraal. The peaks of -the range are already edged with the fire of the coming light. At -last a notched portion of the sun appears over the distant mountain -heights. Now everything is coloured crimson. The granite cliffs and -massive boulders, the tall grass, the ruined walls, even the mules -outspanned in the valley in front of the camp, are all crimson. The -usually dirty-coloured grass roofs of the huts are for some minutes -most gorgeously beautified. For the only time in the day the dentelle -pattern on the conical tower and on the eastern face of the Eastern -Temple, the chevron pattern on the Elliptical Temple, and the huge -herring-bone pattern on the ancient water gate, and certain of the -slate and granite monoliths, are fully bathed in rich sunshine. Other -ancient decorative patterns on the walls will have the full sun shining -upon them only at midday, while others will only be fully sun-bathed as -the sun is setting. - -But at present everything is crimson. The wreaths of mist which lie -over the tall grass filling the valleys, and which just before were -blue, now connect kopje and kopje, making the Acropolis and other -summits crimson isles rising from out a crimson sea. The only objects -that decline to take on the prevailing tint are some old-world-looking -trees with green, metallic leaves. Were the picture of Zimbabwe with -this misty colouring resting over it reproduced on canvas the artist -would at once be condemned as extravagant. But Nature has more than one -colour on her palette. The crimson melts in a rich golden hue which -succeeds it. The cliffs, grass hut-roofs, and mist-wreaths become -golden. The mules are transformed to gold, and the battered old wagon -looks for once quite respectable with its golden buck-sail. But the -gold in its turn also fades, the mist-veils lift and melt away, and -the land once more regains its wonted tawny, sun-bathed appearance so -suggestive of lions. - -Day has not yet had a fair chance to become commonplace, but in -Havilah Camp life is beginning to stir. Three naked boys have gone to -the spring for water, others collect wood, clean the pots, and draw -_rapoka_ meal and salt from the stores, while a tall pillar of bright -blue smoke ascends in the still air from the boys’ fire. From our -height can be seen a score of native villages, each with its column of -blue smoke. - -Two or three sit by the _Isafuba_ game-holes, and of course -disputations at once ensue. Others settle down to work of their own, -such as grass-hat making, carving sticks with chevron patterns, drying -tobacco leaves, crushing snuff, dressing skins, or performing the -duties of barbers. The boys are most industrious when engaged upon -their own work. Others are off to inspect their bird and game traps, of -which they seem to have at least a hundred within a short distance from -the camp, while the rest sit and watch whatever happens to be going on. - -Down the side of Makuma Kopje, where Mogabe’s kraal is situated, come -young men in twos and threes, some of them with musical instruments, -such as Makalanga pianos, a flute, and a one-stringed harp with gourd -attached to increase the sound, and of course all are singing. These -on descending Makuma disappear in the ten-foot grass which fills the -valley till they are near the camp. Other young men come from Chenga’s -kraal in the opposite direction two miles away. These latter are the -boys to work. Our best workmen come from Chenga’s, for Mogabe’s men -have not been improved by tips and favours from visitors to the ruins; -besides, belonging to the kraal of the paramount and dynastic chief, -they deem themselves to be somewhat superior to all direction or -reprimand by white men. Though Mogabe’s people know “how to be happy -though Makalanga,” Chenga’s people seem to be even more genuinely -contented with their environment. - -By 7 a.m. the camp is in full life, and all the boys are present with -at least a dozen brothers and followers. The trap-owners have returned -with rats, small birds, and possibly a rock-rabbit. A boy is given a -note to take to Victoria, seventeen miles distant. He places the letter -and his pass in a cleft stick, holds it out in front of him, and is -off. He will be back in camp an hour after sundown, perhaps bringing a -load of 35 lbs. on his head. A thirty-four miles’ journey is preferred -to a day’s work in the temple, so that there are always willing runners -into Victoria. There are eggs, poultry, milk, honey, melons, pumpkins, -rice, and sweet potatoes for sale or barter for salt, and these can -always be obtained for half the original price asked for them. - -Then there are burns to be dressed, quinine to be administered, or -a lung-sick boy to be dosed. The “Parade State of the Malingering -Brigade” is carefully kept down to the lowest possible limit. One is -amazed at the way the boys bear their injuries. A severe wound which -would put an ordinary European on the sick list is to them a mere -trifle, and without flinching they will take a burning stick from -the fire and rub it up and down inside a gaping flesh wound till the -bleeding has ceased. Should any one of them meet with serious injury, -the rest will laugh immensely as if it were a huge joke. In this -respect they are very callous. Toothache, a cold, or a slight touch -of fever renders them most pitiable objects. The soles of their feet -resemble hides, and one or two large thorns which would completely lame -a European is a matter almost too insignificant for them to notice. -They think nothing of standing on hot burning embers while lighting -their pipes at a fire. On cold nights they sleep near a fire and will -roll into it, but they are such remarkably sound sleepers that it is -not until the next morning they discover they have been burnt. How -they manage to save their skins from thorn scratches is a mystery, for -all day they are walking with naked bodies through bushes and thorn -creepers. Yet their skins are beautifully smooth and glossy, and are -always without the slightest scratch. - -But the pots of _rapoka_ meal under the euphorbia trees are now being -stirred, and each pot has its circle of men to whom dyspepsia appears -to be utterly unknown. Sometimes the boys bring a sack of dried -locusts. Locusts are esteemed as a dainty, and make an occasional -change in the menu, or possibly small red beans, or monkey-nuts, or -toasted mealie cobs are feasted upon. While the meal is being devoured -one could hardly imagine there was a native within a mile. The -stillness of skoff-times (meal-times) in camp serves the purposes of a -well-regulated chronometer. Teeth-cleaning is their first business of -the day. On rising from sleep and after each meal this is religiously -performed. Each takes a mouthful of water and rubs his teeth vigorously -with a forefinger, using what water is still remaining in his mouth -to wet the skin of face, neck, breast, and hands, squirting it out -in doles as required. To hurry them back to work before their teeth -had been cleaned would cause them to regard the _Baba_ with looks of -genuine horror. - -At 7 a.m. the ganger, a man who has worked in the ruins for Bent, -Willoughby, and Schlichter, comes to the hut door to report that the -men are now ready to start work. Then follows the roll-call, each -raising his hand and passing on one side to a separate group as his -name is read out. A boy absent for two days on account of alleged -sickness is reported to have gone to a distant kraal to attend a “beer -dance” where he danced the whole night through. A fine is entered -against him. Makalanga split on one another in a fashion which English -schoolboys would never permit. Our fines are rarely enforced, but the -mere entering them in the book has a most wholesome effect. - -One feature in the roll-call generally strikes visitors as interesting, -that is, the rhythmic sound of the names of the boys. To an Englishman -these names would appear to be more suitable for girls than for men. -In fact, all the names of the men are pretty, so pretty that it -seems inappropriate to apply them to great fellows like some of our -labourers. But like their ideally graceful and poetic gestures, while -pronouncing each other’s names they unconsciously manage to throw into -the pronunciation a delicate softness, rhythm of intonation, and charm -of expression that are rather fascinating to the European listener. An -Englishman totally unacquainted with the local language, and wrongly -pronouncing the names, could not rob them of their poetry. - -The roll completed, all set off in Indian file either to the Elliptical -Temple or the Acropolis, singing in chorus in a Tyrolese style, one man -giving the recitative, which is almost always of a purely extempore -and local character. When once within the ruins, blankets are thrown -off and the forty boys make, with a background of light-coloured, -lichen-draped walls, a dark mass of humanity, for, save their -insignificant aprons fastened with a bark string to their waists, -and their necklaces of blue beads and amulets, and brass bangles on -arm and leg, they are practically naked, and the sun shines on their -glossy chocolate-tinted skins as on burnished metal. The Makalanga have -exceedingly strong social instincts, and prefer to work together in one -mass even in a small area. To separate them into small gangs would mean -little or no work done. - -On wet days, or for a few succeeding days, the work is confined to -carrying out blocks, which have either fallen from the walls or been -piled up by the long succession of archæologists and gold relic -collectors who have worked within the ruins. These are carried held -up high over their shoulders at arms’ length, or else on the tops of -their heads, where natives carry anything from the size of a pill-box -to a 40 lb. load. They never carry anything with arms downwards. In -fine weather, leaf mould full of roots and seeds, and past excavators’ -soil-heaps are removed outside in boxes, the narrow entrances -precluding the general use of wheelbarrows. Relics would be lost in the -wet and clayey soil were it removed in wet weather. All the boys work -_en masse_, each picks up his box or block, and when all are loaded up -they start in one unbroken line for the débris heap outside, singing -choruses with recitatives all the way out and on their return. The -boxes are carried on one shoulder, a knobkerrie being used as a lever -over the other shoulder to hold up the back of the box. The procession -of boxes seems interminable—“Milkmaid,” “Armour Beef,” “Lime Juice -Cordial,” “Highland Whisky,” “Raisins,” “Coleman’s,” “Mazawattee,” -supplemented by buckets, but above all by “Nectar Tea.” Each box has a -branded notice uncomplimentary to ships’ boilers. But “Nectar” is the -great triumph of Zimbabwe. - -It is a huge box, carried on two short poles, with “Nectar Tea” -emblazoned on its sides in blue and white. It courtsies and bobs -its way to and fro in a most stately fashion, and after it has left -the pile which is being removed, a great reduction in the débris -remaining can be noticed. The boys have no particular affection for -this omnibus. They are believed to _bulala_ (knock about) this box on -purpose to ruin it, for several times a day they will bring it with no -sorrow on their faces with the information that the box is _meningi -gura_ (plenty sick), each time fatally _gura_, but a few nails cure it -of its injuries. Long may “Nectar Tea,” in the interests of archæology, -continue to courtesy and bob its way through the western portal of the -Elliptical Temple. - -[Illustration: CARRYING OUT DÉBRIS FROM ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE, ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: A NOONTIDE SHELTER. WEST ENTRANCE TO ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -The boys when working well will in a day do about as much work as a -quarter of the same number of English labourers. They are inclined to -be industrious when the _Baba_ is in sight, but they immediately drop -down on their haunches with knees up the moment his back is turned. -This is a moral certainty. Then singing ceases, for when working they -are always singing. Any excuse for a passing diversion is immediately -seized upon. On the shout of _inyoga_ (snake) they drop their tools at -once, seize their knobkerries and jump into the jungle heedless for the -time being of thorns and creepers. In respect of snakes they are not -cowards. Inside the bush a perfect pandemonium is going on which never -ceases till either the snake, generally a python or a black mamba, has -been slain or has escaped into some pile of ancient blocks. - -Another day, after a brief absence from the temple, I found about forty -women and girls from Mogabe’s kraal had arrived in the temple to watch -their sons, brothers, and sweethearts at work. This they frequently do. -The boys on this occasion, believing _Baba_ to be further off than he -really was, were chasing the dusky Cleopatras up and down the parallel -passages, in and out of the enclosures, and dodging them round the -base of the Sacred Cone. One burly Junoesque, bead-and-bangle-bedecked -mother was having a most delirious and frantic ride round the temple -courts in our only wheelbarrow, which is an iron one. As the barrow -bumped along at full tilt against the stones it would each time -shake her up terribly. The shrieking, screaming, and laughter of the -girls and the yelling of the boys made the temple ring with a noise -sufficient to make the priests of the ancient Phallic cult whirl in -their graves with horror. But—_Baba!_ and in thirty seconds the boys -were all hard at work with most pious looks on their faces, and singing -a well-known mission hymn. These great, fine-grown, frank-looking -fellows, with their enviable ivories and provokingly pleasant smiles, -are far worse than little children to manage. Their characters are -perfectly riddled with frivolity, and their minds astonishingly -mercurial. Every incident they notice is to them humorous, even the -preservation work at the ruins is regarded by them as a sheer waste -of time. Not one of them if he tried hard could keep silence for two -minutes together. He must either talk, laugh, sing, whistle, or perform -some absurd antic. Their utter guilelessness and naïve simplicity are -in many respects both surprising and entertaining. To blame them before -their fellows kills what little spirit they possess for work, while -praise, even though barely merited, will cause them to redouble their -efforts. To be in the slightest degree friendly or familiar with them -is to completely destroy one’s influence over them; the granting them -any favour is regarded by them as an undoubted sign of the donor’s -weakness, and of the virtue of gratitude they are absolutely destitute. - -One wonders at the dual character which each possesses. In some -respects a Makalanga is more moral than many a European, while in -others the depth of his immorality cannot be plumbed. In some matters -they are as pure-minded as Adam and Eve in the Garden, and know not -that they are naked. In their hands their women’s virtue is safe. But -contact with the “educated native,” especially a Cape Kafir, before -their minds are prepared to receive even the most elementary education, -works on them untold mischief. - -But the boys may be divided into two classes, one industrious and -honest, the other lazy and thieving. These diverse characteristics -appear to run in separate families. M’Komo stole Mrs. Theodore Bent’s -honey. Three of his nephews in my employ stole meat, sugar, tobacco, -or anything else in the _kya_ (hut) they took a fancy to. Another -nephew proved to be a veritable Iago in a _moocha_ (a small leathern -apron worn by men), and was always making mischief, not only among the -boys, but also between the boys and the _Baba_. Of course these members -of this family, notwithstanding its exalted connections, were warned -off the camp, and are not allowed to be seen visiting it. Brothers of -unsatisfactory boys are never taken on the works, but should there be -any vacancy at the end of a month, and the supply of labour is greater -than our demand, the places are offered to the brothers of trustworthy -boys, and these always prove a great success. - -But to return to the Temple. About eleven o’clock the _kya_ boy arrives -with half a dozen wee picaninnies carrying kettle, tea-pot, etc. The -_kya_ boy comes in for an amount of chaff from the gang. They call -him a “Moccaranga shentilman,” because, for two hours in the morning -and for the same time in the afternoon, he can _lala_ (rest), seeing -that he starts work at 5.30 a.m. and is not free till about 8 p.m. -Further, he has perquisites in the shape of meat, tobacco, and tips -from visitors, and also in a diluted form acts as a sort of _baas_ -(master). But the _kya_ boy takes all the chaff in good part, and gives -back quite as much as he receives. The picaninnies, armed with bows and -arrows, indulge in target practice, and make it ruinous to stick up -lunch biscuits at forty paces. - -Probably Mogabe with his headmen will arrive to watch the boys working, -and then I know what to expect. It is bound to come. After a long -silence he remarks that he is glad to see the _Baba_. Another long -silence, and then—“A _Baba_ always gives presents to his children.” I -assume a complete indifference to his remark. Mogabe is diplomatic, but -his diplomacy is very thin. After a long pause he observes—“The _Baba_ -will make me a present of money.” I inform him I have none to give. -Another long pause ensues, then, pointing to a hatchet, he remarks—“The -_Baba_ will give me this.” I explain that the hatchet is the property -of the Chartered Company, and not mine to bestow. He fails to see the -point of my statement, and bluntly says so. He pauses to consider what -else he can ask for, and after a long cogitation says “Salt, _Baba_.” -At last Mogabe is reasonable, and I instruct the _kya_ boy to fetch him -half a cup of salt. Mogabe is profuse in his thanks, and his speech is -floreated with eulogies of the _Baba_. - -Now my turn begins. Mogabe and the elders of his headmen have a sixty -years’ knowledge of the ruins, and he is acquainted with everything -that took place at Zimbabwe during the time of Chipfuno his brother, -who was the previous Zimbabwe chief. Pointing to a gap in an obviously -ancient wall which had been rudely filled in with blocks, I ask him -who filled up the gap. After a long consultation with his headmen, he -says that the Makalanga did it to keep in the cattle, for this part of -the temple was used as a cattle kraal, and that was when Chipfuno was -a young man. Another gap was filled up when Chipfuno was a young man. -I then hand him over some pieces of pottery with geometrical patterns -not at all crudely executed, which we have just unearthed, and ask -him if the Makalanga made them. For ten minutes he and his headmen -are closely examining the pottery, noting the quality of the clay, -the correctness of the pattern, and the glaze on both sides. Yes, the -Makalanga made it, but not the Makalanga who are now alive, nor their -fathers’ fathers. The pottery was of Makalanga make, but _meningi dara_ -(very old). The assertion he emphasises by gesture, manifestly meaning -a great age. Mogabe thus confirms the expert opinion of antiquarians -that this class of pottery was made by the mediæval Makalanga. Mogabe -comes to see us at every place we work at, and his opinion on “finds” -belonging to recent generations of Makalanga may be taken, so old hands -affirm, as perfectly reliable. The information so obtained is valuable -both as to later walls and to articles found. - -Sometimes the chiefs Baranazimba or Chenga arrive at the ruins, and an -_indaba_ (conference) as to “finds” and built-up entrances always takes -place, but the weekly _indaba_ with Mogabe always commences with the -same old rigmarole. It is a sheer waste of time to discuss anything -ancient with them, for since the new jail at Victoria has been built -they all solemnly declare that the _marungu_[22] (white men) built -the ruins for a “Tronk!” All their old poetic explanations as to the -presence of the ruins, such as they were built “when stones were soft” -or “when days were dark,” have now gone to the winds. The ruins were -prisons! - -But the _kya_ boy has arrived with the salt, and Mogabe is happy. He -wraps the salt up in the corner of his blanket, and is off to his kraal -at once. When any _marungu_ arrives in a Cape-cart at the camp Mogabe -is down the side of his kopje a few minutes afterwards, and arrives -there also. It is the same old story, only then the visitor is given -_his_ opportunity of demonstrating his liberality. “I am glad to see -the _Baba_. A _Baba_ always gives presents to his children.” Mogabe, -like his fellows all over South Africa, is a born beggar, and yet he -possesses seventy head of cattle, is rich in wives, grain, and labour, -rules over a large area of country, receives a monthly allowance -from the Government as chief, and a further allowance for warning -unauthorised prospectors for ancient relics from the ruins. - -Mogabe’s day has gone. Still, notwithstanding his true Kafir fawning -nature, there is something about the aged chief one cannot help -respecting. He is intelligent, and he looks it, and his face, if -white, would be taken for that of an educated European, for, like most -Makalanga, he has little or nothing negroid in his features. Before -the advent of the Chartered Company he was constantly at war with -his neighbours, sacking villages, kidnapping women and children, and -generally murdering. His last fight was in November, 1892, when he -engaged the Amangwa people, the battle taking place just outside the -western wall of the Elliptical Temple. His own people seem to somewhat -neglect him, except in some tribal arrangements and in affairs in which -he represents the Native Department. Formerly it was the rule that he -ate first and his people afterwards; now he comes into our camp at -skoff-times and asks the boys for some of their _rapoko_, porridge, -and if they should happen to be mindful of his presence they will pass -him a handful, but sometimes he sits there unheeded. He has now sold, -perhaps for a mere song, the famous necklace of Venetian beads which -Bent failed to induce him to part with. But there is a look in his eyes -that gives one the impression that the old man does not at all relish -the benefits of civilisation, and that he is pining for a return of the -good old days of blood-shedding.[23] Mogabe’s biography would be worth -writing. - -But Mogabe is in my good books, for he gave me permission to move some -Makalanga graves made in certain of the passages on the Acropolis. Bent -merely told Chipfuno that he was going to move the selfsame graves, -and he at once withdrew all the labourers, and this not only caused -Bent considerable difficulty, but he was not afterwards allowed to -open the passages. Twelve years later Mogabe gives his consent on the -understanding that he is given half a cup of salt, that the remains -were to be properly re-interred, and that the boys who did the work -should be allowed to go to their kraals to purify themselves. This -purification is no mere excuse, but is an actual cleansing of those -engaged in this particular undertaking. The boys informed me that until -they had washed they could not eat, and that their fellows would keep -away from them. The bones were not touched by hand, but were moved with -two sticks. Once I picked up a solid copper bangle, which must have -come, judging by the presence of scattered human bones, from some grave -disturbed years previously by some excavator for relics. The boys were -genuinely horrified when I touched it, but more so when I put it on my -wrist. They said I must take it off at once and wash myself, and this -horror at what I had done possessed them for several days and was a -constant theme of conversation. - -_Tjiya!_ (cease work!) is sounded, and the boys take up the cry, and -spring like chased buck helter-skelter through the western entrance -into the hot, sultry atmosphere, singing, laughing, yelling, and -caterwauling, just like boys let out of school. The relentlessly -broiling heat and glare of noontide make one long for the beautifully -cool shade of the huts. - -Arrived at the camp, some of the boys lie at full length on the hot -boulders and so take sun-baths, others resume their own carving -or other work, some make music, or play with dollasses, or fence, -while the majority gather round the various sets of game-holes and -play _isafuba_, but there is a camp rule, found by experience to be -necessary, that _isafuba_ cannot be played until the cooks state that -the pots have commenced to boil. So fascinating is this game that -formerly we found the cooking operations often became neglected. - -_Isafuba_ is one of a group of games, the origin of which is explained -on pages 79, 80 of _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_. In our camp are -several sets of game-holes; one set has four rows of sixteen holes -each, and another two rows of twelve holes. This last is generally -patronised by the picaninnies. Some of the _isafuba_ games have -different moves, numbers of holes and counters, and the games vary -slightly in different districts. - -From two to five players sit on each side. Each of the partners on -either side appears to have an equal right of moving the counters. The -two lines of holes near each set of partners is not intruded upon by -the counters of the opponents, but opponents clutch up the counters of -the opposite side when such counters have no counter either in the hole -behind or in front, and this snatching up of counters is governed by -rules which in some moves closely resemble those of chess, while double -counters in a hole are as influential as kings in draughts. - -Some of the moves strongly remind one of “fox and geese,” each side -moving in turn, and later in the game, when the holes are full of -counters, each side chases the other along parallel lines of holes to -the end of the set. This chasing is a cause of great excitement, and -is concluded in a perfect babel of shouting, each player as he moves a -counter in the chase calling out _in-da!_ and when the final hole is -reached, _ga!_ - -Always while in camp there is a perpetual shouting of _in-da! in-da! -in-da!_ followed by the triumphant shout of _ga!_ The subject of heated -discussion during the game is as to the amount of cheating the other -side has effected, and the tumult caused by the discussion of this -topic, especially with an extraordinarily talkative people like the -Makalangas, can only be but partially imagined. The perpetual _in-da! -in-da! in-da!—ga!_ trespasses into one’s dreamland. After a week of -this never-ceasing _in-da!_ the sets of holes were ordered to be -removed to a more reasonable distance from the hut door; still, one -cannot even now escape this perpetual and monotonous din. Yet in all -their excited disputations they have never once got beyond mere words. -The picaninnies sometimes join in at the larger sets, but a prompter -always assists them. - -It is the custom for the losers, and not the victors, to record the -state of the series of games. This is done by placing large stones, -one for each game lost, on the side where the losers sit. The losers -invariably have to provide the stones. When all the large stones within -arm’s reach have been used up as records and the losers have to get -up to fetch a stone, there is general laughter in the camp, even from -those who are not immediately watching the game. The stakes are for -“sisspences,” or for _doro_ (native beer), but both winners and losers -share alike. Towards the end of a month, when wages are becoming due, -the game causes increased excitement, and plenty of _doro_ is brewed by -speculative villagers to meet the probable demands of the boys.[24] - -The two most pernicious vices of the Makalanga are their inveterate -love of _I’daha_ (wild hemp) smoking, and of _doro_ drinking. - -The former acts as opium, and incapacitates for work, dulls the -intellect, destroys every atom of will-power, and tends, if persisted -in, to shorten life. An _I’daha_ smoker is readily known by the glazed -look in his eyes, and by his miserable appearance. On our arrival here -_I’daha_ pipes were introduced into the camp, but they were very soon -destroyed, and the smoking of _I’daha_ is now an offence punishable -by dismissal without _mali_ (money). This rule has effected a great -improvement in the general tone of the men and in their capacities for -work. So injurious to brain and health is this vice that in some parts -of South Africa _I’daha_ smoking is prohibited under a penalty. One of -the most distressing features of this practice is the painful fit of -loud coughing which always follows the use of the pipe. - -_Doro_, brewed from _rapoko_ (a red millet), is drunk very extensively -by the Makalanga in this district, seeing that this part of the country -yields grain in such enormous quantities. But the natives do not regard -_doro_ as a mere beverage. At new and full moons, or at the rising or -setting of the Pleiades, which determine the sowing and harvesting -seasons, _doro_ is provided by the native farmers in lieu of wages, and -on these occasions it is drunk most extensively by people of all ages. -The men delight in gulping it down in quantities with the avowed and -deliberate intention of getting drunk as soon as possible. The state of -stupefaction induced by _doro_ is one of their most exquisite delights. -On Saturday mornings the one topic of conversation of the gang is as to -how much beer they will drink on _I’zhuba Kuru_ (Sunday), how soon they -will get drunk, and what they will do when they are drunk. On Mondays, -in spite of their “large heads” and sodden appearance, discussions take -place as to who were the most drunk. The one who lost most control of -himself is considered a hero. In their opinion the man who was most -intoxicated honours himself, and can afford to boast. - -Even those who are in many other respects the most hopeful young men -equally delight in getting absolutely intoxicated. The lads from eight -years of age imbibe _doro_ most copiously, while boys of twelve get as -drunk as their seniors. The brains of the natives are so small that the -_doro_ acts upon them speedily, and two hours’ drinking will undo all -the benefit of two years’ contact with civilisation. Then all their -innate savage nature reasserts itself in every violent form, and their -swaggering insolence, inspired by _doro_, is intolerable. But the evils -of _I’daha_ smoking and _doro_ drinking are not of modern origin, -but are ingrained in their blood and bone by many past centuries of -devotion to these practices. - -The rarefied air of these highlands conducts sound over long distances, -and triangular conversations are constantly in progress between the -villagers at Mogabe’s kraal, our boys at the camp, and those working -on the Hill Ruins, though each point is at least a third of a mile -distant from the others. These conversations are carried on without -the slightest straining of the voice or even shouting, the secret -apparently being the slight raising of the voice and speaking very -distinctly and very slowly. From their vantage position on the hill -the boys are always on the look-out for natives passing and repassing -between the villages. While the passing natives are, as one would -believe, outside the hearing limit a conversation with the boys has for -some time been in progress. Our boys will give the usual salutation, -and if this be replied to all well and good. But should it not be -replied to, or not promptly, the boys will at once start in chorus to -slang the passer-by and all his relatives, commencing with his mother. -So long as the passer-by is within earshot, so long do these slanging -matches continue. Each boy endeavours to cap each previous remark with -something more pungent, and as he succeeds the rest cheer him. Natives -state that the sound of their voices travels quickest and furthest in -the early mornings. - -[Illustration: THE CAMP MESSENGER, ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: LABOURERS AT THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE, ZIMBABWE] - -The visits of _marungu_ to the ruins are highly interesting occasions -for the natives. The news of any approaching arrival is shouted down -from Mogabe’s kraal a third of a mile away, for from Mogabe’s Kopje -there is a four miles’ view of the road from Victoria. Long before the -Cape-cart or horsemen can enter our valley from over the ridge between -Rusivanga and Mogabe’s kopjes it is known where we are working, how -many visitors are arriving, the description of vehicle, and if there -is a lady in the party. Arrivals always attract a score or more naked -picaninnies, who accompany the conveyance from the ridge at the foot -of the Rusivanga down to the camp. But such visits are infrequent, and -three weeks or a month pass without a white man arriving at Zimbabwe, -and when, after such intervals, they do arrive, their faces look -strange _because they are white_, while the sound of the English -language is strikingly odd. On some rare occasions as many as three -camps of visitors have been fixed up on the outspan. A patrol of the -British South Africa Police calls about once a month, and the troopers -generally introduce themselves with some such salutation as “Well, -still alive? Not murdered yet?” - -Humorous incidents are not absent in the work of excavation in the -ruins. For instance, after working for some hours in a trench near -the Sacred Enclosure, and passing all soil over boards and through -fingers in the search for relics, a common clay pipe of English make -was found intact at a depth of over 3 ft. At another spot, after hours -of careful but unrewarded work in a trench, at a similar depth a very -late brand of soda-water bottle was found. Both these finds delighted -the boys infinitely more than had they unearthed a cartload of phalli -or other prehistoric relics of value. In some respects the boys are -extremely practical. The question “_aliquid novi ex Zimbabwe?_” can in -two senses be answered in the affirmative. Such modern articles found -“at depth” afford only another proof that the soil in the interior of -the temple, as stated elsewhere, has been turned over and over again by -archæologists, and also by unauthorised prospectors, for ancient gold -and other relics. - -After _tjiya_, when the day’s work is done, there is still an hour or -so of daylight left, and this is usually occupied in wandering among -the kopjes or along sequestered valleys, keeping an eye open for fresh -traces of the ancients, or in examining and measuring some one of -the minor ruins which stud the valley, or in calling at a village to -arrange for labour, or in looking out for buck and guinea-fowl for the -pot. - -Meanwhile the sun is setting in a gorgeous west, and the golden glow -is already fading on the temple walls. Then come the shadows of night, -and these settle down rapidly. By the time the hut is reached the _kya_ -boy has lit the candles, laid the table, and is ready with the skoff. -The boys are sitting round their fire or finishing a game of _isafuba_ -in the semi-darkness. Their evening meal is being cooked. One of them -has brought a gourd of _doro_, and another a pot of fat, in which each -handful of porridge is dipped before being eaten. - -Sitting on the stoep of the hut at this time of the day is a perfect -rest. The air is agreeably cooled by a light breeze, which is laden -with the scent of verbena. The night is calm and peaceful. Large -bats fly swallow-wise, fire flies dart in all directions, glow-worms -shine steadily in the grass, and birds, frogs, and insects join in -mild choruses. The call of a boy in our camp to some companion up on -Mogabe’s Kopje is repeated half a dozen times by the precipices of -Zimbabwe Hill, where the echoes die out in a series of sharp raps. -The large full moon rises serenely from behind the trees on Beroma -Range, and bathes the country in delicate soft light, imparting a -greenish-grey tint to the mist-veils which fill the gorges, throwing -a deeper suggestion of mystery and awe over the wide expanse of bush -where the lion holds his court. - -The boys, having finished their meal, now indulge in post-prandial -rhetoric, and dialectic ping-pong. The ruddy glow of the fire reddens -the huts and shines on the naked bodies and limbs of the crowd, making -them resemble polished ebony, while as their tall and well-proportioned -figures with kingly walk pass and repass in the flickering lurid light -they appear to resemble shades from across the Styx. Such a scene is -at least Dantesque, and to many might seem weird. But the boys are -as happy as their hearts can wish. Their joviality is irrepressible. -Harmony from their instruments, rhythmic chants, peals of laughter, -wild recitatives, constant talking, with perhaps a wrestling match and -a war-dance executed in simulated form thrown in, fill up two hours, -by the end of which they are all under their blankets, sleeping and -snoring as only natives can. - -“Porridge,” the _kya_ boy’s under-study, and eight years old, has -brought in the hut door, which also acts as drawing-board and stoep -table, and has gone to the kitchen-hut, where he rolls himself up in -his tiny blanket. - -An occasional bark of a baboon or wolf, or yelp of jackal, or hoot of -owl, is heard in addition to the usual nightjar and frog choruses. The -sounds of the village drums, and of singing and dancing at Mogabe’s -or Chenga’s kraal, where the full-moon feast is being celebrated, are -wafted down to us. The night is perfectly lovely, but for Havilah Camp -the day is past and over. - -But the moon—itself a dead world—looks down upon the ruins of a dead -city and on the graves of a forgotten race, as it has done ever since -the stern policeman Fate ordered these ancients to “Pass on!” - - - - - CHAPTER IV - - ZIMBABWE DISTRICT - - - _Chipo-popo[25] Falls_ - -These are about two miles and a half north-east of Zimbabwe, on the -Motelekwe Road. The Chipo-popo, which is a perennial stream with its -source on the south side of the Beroma Range, crosses the road and -runs towards the Moshagashi River, which it joins four miles lower -down. Immediately to the north of the drift (ford) the stream descends -abruptly down granite ledges into a deep ravine, on the east side of -which is Chipo-popo kraal. The falls are reached by leaving the road at -thirty yards on the Zimbabwe side of the drift and going between some -large boulders on the north side of the road. This is an interesting -spot at any time, but especially so when rains have swollen the -torrent. A path from Chipo-popo kraal leads to Oatlands Farm, four -miles north-east of Zimbabwe, where Naidoo, an Indian, has an extensive -market-garden. The walk to the falls and to Oatlands Farm is a very -easy afternoon’s exercise. - - • • • • • - -_Frond Glen._—This is a very pretty, secluded, and sheltered spot in a -deep ravine about half a mile east of the South-East Ruins. A stream -from the valley, which extends eastwards from the Elliptical Temple, -passes through it in a south-easterly direction. On the banks of -this ravine are to be found tree-ferns, palms, royal ferns (_osmunda -regalis_), and maiden-hair ferns. The scenery and atmosphere of this -glen are said to be somewhat similar to those of some tracts on the -southern slopes of the Himalayas. To reach the glen one should leave -the Motelekwe Road at three-quarters of a mile east of Havilah Camp, -cross the small valley on the south to the South-East Ruins, and then -go due east from the ruins, the land descending towards the glen. - - • • • • • - -_Lumbo Rocks._—These strikingly picturesque cliffs, which form a -prominent landmark for miles around, are a little over two miles -south of the Elliptical Temple, and are approached by the native path -leading from Zimbabwe to the Morgenster Mission. These granite crags -rise perpendicularly for about a hundred feet from out of the summit -of a rocky kopje, and form a rude square-sided column of precipice, -which is divided into four portions by very narrow fissures, which run -through it on all four sides from base to summit. Visitors should climb -this hill and inspect the rocks. There are numerous granite boulders -split into fantastic shapes all round this kopje. The headman, Lumbo, -now has his kraal about a third of a mile to the west of these rocks. -Chipadzi’s kraal lies one mile to the south-east of Lumbo Rocks, and -half a mile nearer Zimbabwe, and on the west side of the path to the -mission is the deserted kraal of Baranazimba, situate on a high rugged -kopje among gigantic boulders which rendered the kraal most difficult -of approach. This chief is a relative of Mogabe. His new kraal is on -a kopje close to the Victoria-Zimbabwe Road about four miles from the -ruins. - - • • • • • - -_Morgenster_ (“_Morning Star_”) _Mission_.—One of the prettiest walks -from Zimbabwe is to this mission station, which is barely three and -a half miles distant in a south-south-westerly direction. The path -passes between the _Elliptical Temple_ and the _Bentberg_. About two -miles along the path and close to the right-hand side is Baranazimba’s -old kraal perched up high among the boulders of a kopje. The path -then crosses a nek between Baranazimba’s and the _Lumbo Rocks_, and -descends into a narrow valley and up a high ridge, on which, cutting -the sky-line, is a tall and prominent _Finger Rock_, which is only a -few hundred yards from the mission, which lies just over the ridge. -Morgenster is on a much higher elevation than the Zimbabwe Valley. The -walk is highly interesting to anyone fond of romantic scenery. Rugged -kopjes, with cliff-boulders on which huge granite masses are most -delicately poised, lie along the right-hand side of the path for a -great part of the distance to Morgenster. - -The mission was founded in 1891 by the Rev. A. A. Louw, of the Dutch -Reformed Church, Dr. John Helm, the medical missionary, joining the -station in 1894. Several other European missionaries are attached to -the staff, and there are numerous outlying stations. - -The mission settlement is ideally situated on the south face of a -high ridge overlooking the Mowishawasha Valley on the south and the -N’Djena Valley and Motelekwe River on the south-east. Its position is -marked by clumps of tall blue gum-trees. The buildings comprise the -residence of Mr. Louw, the houses of Dr. Helm and other missionaries, -and a school-house. Morgenster is celebrated for its banana plantation, -the number of its lemon trees, and its large irrigated gardens. The -Mahobohobo trees are very numerous in the vicinity of the station. - -The district in which the mission is situated is known to the natives -as Amangwa, this being in former times the country of the once powerful -tribe of Amangwa, who were driven away from the Zimbabwe district by -the present local Makalanga on their arrival almost seventy years ago -from the Sabi district. A kopje within a third of a mile on the east -side of the mission was, until very recently, occupied by a local tribe -of Makalanga, who built up rampart walls of unhewn stones to fortify -the kopje against the attacks of the Matabele about 1893. - -Morgenster is also celebrated for the immense panoramic view of the -Motelekwe Valley, extending for at least forty miles, where the -tumbling sea of rugged kopje summits fades into the blue distance. -The view is so extensive, impressive, and grand that one can never -tire beholding it. As far as the eye can reach the land can be seen -descending towards the south. The nearest point of the Motelekwe River -to the mission is four miles. There are a great many villages in the -valley. - -A peculiar interest attaches to this view of the Motelekwe Valley, -for along it appears to have been the main route of the ancient -gold-seekers from the coast to Zimbabwe, and so into the interior -of the country. Along the Motelekwe is a chain of ruins (see -_Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_), of which the Mapaku Ruins, eight miles -east-south-east of Zimbabwe, are the nearest. Some of these ruins -are of major importance, and two at least are decorated with the -chevron pattern, and occupy areas almost as large as the main ruins -at Zimbabwe. This line of forts, or “blockhouses,” is extended along -the Sabi River for a considerable distance into Portuguese territory. -In viewing this valley from Morgenster, the thought that within sight -lies one of the ancient roads to the coast, and that along it passed -the gold- and ivory-laden caravans, makes the contemplation of the -Motelekwe Valley one of absorbing interest. - -The sharp-cut kopje with steep glacis sides, about a mile and a half -south of the mission, is Rugutsi. This divides the scenery of the -Motelekwe from that of the Mowishawasha Valley on the south. This also -is a fine view, but not so extensive as that of the Motelekwe Valley. -An absolutely bare, granite, balloon-shaped kopje lies to the west. - -Two miles due south of the mission, in the Mowishawasha Valley, is a -natural stronghold known as Wuwuli. - - • • • • • - -_Wuwuli._—This village, which is two miles south of Morgenster, is -situated in a deep and narrow ravine immediately west of the Rugutsi -Kopje, which forms such a prominent feature in the landscape of the -Mowishawasha Valley, as seen from the mission. Formerly this place was -of considerable importance to the local Makalanga, for during the times -of the Matabele raids the natives between this place and Zimbabwe took -refuge in the very extensive caves which run under the north side of -the ravine. A strong perennial stream flows through the caves. Here, in -time of danger, women, cattle, and grain were hidden. When Mr. and Mrs. -Bent visited this village, in 1891, the natives were opposed to their -inspecting the caves, and they were only permitted to go a certain -distance inside. Now that raidings have ceased the caves are deserted, -save for bats, and we were permitted to view the caves without any -demur on the part of the villagers. - -The present chief is Bungu, a brother of the present dynastic chief -Mogabe by another mother. The former Mogabe, Chipfuno, resided at this -kraal as well as at Zimbabwe, and it was here he was shot in 1892. - -When visiting this village we saw a man undergoing a cure by -blood-letting. Incisions were made in the flesh of the leg, and horns -of yearling cattle placed over them. The air was then sucked out of the -horns through small holes in the top, and the holes were then stopped -with wax. The horns clung to the flesh, owing to the vacuum which drew -the blood. Bungu’s attention was drawn to an old iron-smelting furnace, -on which was the usual female breast and furrow pattern. He said the -natives did not smelt iron now because they could buy their garden hoes -from the white men, and they were therefore saved the trouble of making -them. - - • • • • • - -_Mojejèje, or “Mystic Bar.”_—There are two of these mystic bars at -Zimbabwe, one being on the Motelekwe Road, a quarter of a mile east -from Havilah camp and opposite Middle Kopje (_Chamananga_), and the -other about a mile from Zimbabwe, on the path to Bingura’s. The one -on the Motelekwe Road is formed by a bar of aphite crossing a granite -glacis, over which the road passes, but the one on Bingura’s Path is -an arbitrary line drawn across a piece of granite, over which the path -crosses. Each bar is at right angles to the path. At either end of -each bar is a pile of stones, which show evident signs of having been -hammered upon the bar for generations past. A native on a long journey, -arriving at one of these bars, will take a stone from the pile on one -side and with it tap the whole length of the bar, and lay the stone -on the pile on the opposite side. Natives crossing the bar in passing -between their kraals and their plantations, or going a short distance -only, do not tap the bars. The idea in so tapping the bar is that by so -doing the back is strengthened for the journey, and also that the man -they are going to see may be at home, that the food will not be cooked -till they arrive, and that their journey may be successful. There is no -appeal to spirits or ancestors in performing this act. - - • • • • • - -_Suku Dingle._—This is situated but a few yards from the left-hand side -of the lower path leading from Zimbabwe to Morgenster, and is about 400 -yds. north-east of _Lumbo Rocks_, about two miles from Zimbabwe. The -dingle runs east and west, and is deeply wooded and narrow. This is -a good spot for fern collectors. Down the dingle runs a happy little -stream in perennial flow. The stream’s bed is formed of white clay. The -sides of the banks have been trenched extensively for a perfectly white -soil. This is used by the natives for whitewashing the outside of huts -and for making the check patterns on their interior walls. It is quite -possible that the ancients knew of this spot, and used the material in -making their more choice pottery. The natives know of no other place in -this district where the same material is obtainable, and they come -from many miles’ distance to fetch it. - -[Illustration: THE CHIPO-POPO FALLS, NEAR ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: RAPPING THE MOJE-JE-JE, OR “MYSTIC BAR,” ZIMBABWE] - - • • • • • - -_Bingura’s[26] kraal._—This kraal, which is situated two and a half -miles west-south-west of Zimbabwe, is well worth a visit, the walk -itself being interesting and the situation of the kraal romantic. -Possessors of cameras will find at this kraal ample opportunities of -making “shots” at native life, as well as of taking typical views of -the Zimbabwe scenery. The path to Bingura’s crosses the valley lying -between Havilah Camp and Rusivanga, and then leads up through native -plantations to the broad nek on the horizon between Rusivanga and a -kopje just west of the western end of the Bentberg. On the nek is -another _Mojejèje_, or “Mystic Bar,” crossing the path, where it passes -over open granite. The ascent to the nek is for almost a mile, and the -path from the nek dips down the western side of the ridge into a wide -valley, and passes through the farmstead of a Basuto mission-boy named -“James.” - -The kopje on the summit of which Bingura’s kraal is located is of -horse-shoe shape, and the huts of the kraal are along the line of -summit at intervals among huge boulders. The almost inaccessible -position this kraal occupies, and its rocky surroundings, is also -paralleled by the now deserted kraal of Baranazimba, which is on the -summit of a very high hill protected by precipitous cliffs, and lies on -the right-hand side of the path leading from Zimbabwe to Morgenster. -The men from this kraal, like those of Chenga’s, have not been spoilt -by contact with white men as are many of the men of Mogabe’s kraal. -So far Bingura has not yet left his natural stronghold, but the -probability is that once the neighbouring fields become poor through -over-cultivation he may, like his neighbours, move his kraal into the -open country. - -Starting to ascend the hill, one hears at a hundred yards’ distance -the noise of falling water in a ravine at the north foot of the hill. -The path ascends steeply up fissures and along narrow ledges, and over -slippery slopes of black granite worn white with the passing of many -feet. Bingura’s hut is about half-way up the hill, and here on a small -flat area are about a dozen huts, and on still higher ledges on the -north and west faces of the hill are more dwellings almost hidden, -even when near to them, among huge boulders, also many circular clay -granaries perched on rocks out of the reach of white ants. The large -number of these granaries testifies to the industry of Bingura’s -people. The tree boughs were festooned with mealie cobs drying in the -sun. A large, flat rock was covered with locusts, and quantities of -melons, pumpkins, and gourds were laid outside the huts. Women were -winnowing _rapoka_ corn and cleaning rice. Bingura’s youngest wife, -a fine and very good-looking young woman, was sewing pink beads in -chevron pattern on to her skin apron, and every man, woman, and child -appeared to have some occupation. There were more manifest signs of -business here than at any other kraal in the district. Here they have -less regard for the need of apparel than any of the inhabitants round -about. Bingura is a small man of about fifty years of age, but as agile -as a buck, and has a quick shrewd glance. This is in every respect the -most interesting village in this district. - - • • • • • - -_Motumi’s kraal._—This kraal is about one mile west of Bingura’s, and -is situate in open country and is worth visiting. Motumi is a very -good specimen of a Barotse headman. He is fully seventy years of age, -but is still hale, hearty, and straight. The features of the people at -this kraal are very fine, and most of the men and boys are well-made. -They are a very industrious people and never seem to be idling in their -kraal. Motumi is above the average native in intelligence and can -give an account of what is now Matabeleland long before the Matabele -arrived, with long lists of place-names in that country as then known. -Matgwain, his eldest son, is exceptionally intelligent. Motumi’s people -speak Chicaranga, and most of their characteristics and customs are -also those of their neighbours, the Amangwa, to whom they are allied by -long generations of marriages. - -_Chibfuko._—This hill adjoins the Mowishawasha Hill, which is about -seven miles west-south-west of Zimbabwe. _Washa_ is always associated -in the mind of the natives with power and authority. Chibfuko is never -ascended by the natives. Either the hill itself, or something on it, -causes them to revere or dread it. They never pass by without kneeling -and clapping hands to it. It is said that they hear girls singing on -its summit. The hill has a few caves highly suggestive in appearance of -ancients and hidden relics. In this district valuable relics taken from -the ruins have been discovered. Mr. Drew, Native Commissioner, is of -opinion that many generations past some powerful Makalanga chief must -have been buried on the hill and that this originated the native awe -for the place, but the natives will not divulge the reason. To reach -the hill Bingura’s path must be taken. - -_Chipadzi’s kraal._—This kraal is three miles south from Zimbabwe, and -it may be visited on the same round as Suku Glen, Lumbo Rocks, and -Morgenster. The walk is an interesting one, but there is nothing of -note in the kraal itself, save the view of the Mapudzi Valley which -it overlooks. The Morgenster path must be taken for 1,000 yds. south -of the temple, where a well-defined native path branches off to the -south-east. Later the path descends into a long, narrow valley till -it approaches the kraal. The scenery in this valley is very fine. A -small perennial stream, which at one point disappears under the ground -for a quarter of a mile, flows down the valley, and on either side -of it are palm trees and tree-ferns, each with a trunk some 3 to 8 -ft. in height, also large areas covered with the royal fern (_Osmunda -regalis_). Mahobohobo trees are plentiful, and orchids are abundant on -the branches of the larger trees. The kraal comprises about a score -of huts. There is a very grand view towards the east of the Mapudzi -Valley down which flows the Mapudzi, a stream which has its rise on -the east side of the Elliptical Temple. The ravine is at least 200 -ft. immediately below the kraal which overlooks it. The two large and -prominent kopjes on the south are Moroma, the nearer one, and Rugutsi. -Morgenster is one mile west on the summit of the high land on that side. - -_Mapaku, or “Little Zimbabwe”._—A walk to these ruins is one of the -most interesting in the vicinity of the Zimbabwe. They lie south-east -of Zimbabwe at a distance of less than eight miles, and the path runs -through the romantic scenery of the Beroma Hills and the Motelekwe -Valley. The best way to reach the ruins is through Chenga’s kraal, past -Mandiara’s, which overlooks the lower country on the south side of the -Beroma Range, and past the picturesquely situated kraal of Mapaku, -which is at the foot of a tall cliff a quarter of a mile north-west -of the ruins. The ruins are not extensive (see description of Mapaku -Ruins, chapter xxi.), but are well worth inspection. To return to -Zimbabwe the path may be taken to some large pools in the Motelekwe -River, and from there through Gobele’s kraal near to, and on to, -Chipadzi’s kraal, which is about three miles from Zimbabwe. Making the -round journey as suggested enables the visitor to see native life as it -is lived beyond the ordinary tracks of the white man. The best time of -day to take this walk is to start just before sunrise and arrive at the -ruins before the heat can be felt, and so return to Zimbabwe in good -time for lunch. - -_Schlichter Gorge._—This is the ravine a mile to the south-west of -Zimbabwe, down which flows the Mapudzi stream southwards. The walk -in certain parts is somewhat rough, while in the rainy season owing -to swollen tributaries and dense jungles of tall reeds it is almost -inaccessible. To approach it one takes the path down the valley at the -south foot of East Ruins, and directly east of Maund Ruins, and follows -a small stream, the banks of which are shaded by trees and covered -with royal fern. In the dry season there is very little water flowing, -but there are always small pools. The path crosses this stream at its -junction with the Mapudzi, the right bank of which must be taken. Where -the sides of the valley close in the rocky sides of the hills must -be climbed and then descended again. Along the course of the stream, -which is densely wooded at the gorge, and flows between large boulders -causing numerous pretty waterfalls even in the dry season, are some -delightfully shaded pools, round which orchids and palms, and also -ferns of rarer species, are to be found in great quantities. Where the -gorge opens out at its southern end on to a wide valley a steep path, -which leads up to Chipadzi’s kraal, must be taken. From the kraal a -fine view of the gorge is obtained. - -_Chicagomboni Hill_ (_Nini district_).—This is where the rediscoverer -of the Great Zimbabwe ruins, Adam Renders, a German-American, lived -from 1868 to 1871. Renders was known to the natives as “Sa-adama,” -and to this day the Makalanga speak well of him, and are particularly -anxious that all Europeans should know that everything which “Sa-adama” -bought from them he always paid for. Mogoma, an old man of exceptional -intelligence, is the native chief in this locality, and knew Renders -intimately, as the latter lived in his village and made it the centre -for his elephant-hunting expeditions, on which Mogoma often accompanied -him. One of Renders’ hunting “boys” still lives in the neighbouring -village of M’Tibi. Elephants in those days were very plentiful, -especially in the Beka and Mali districts. Renders, the natives say, -was a tall, strong man. He first arrived in Mr. Stokes’ wagon. Mr. -Stokes was a well-known preoccupation pioneer whose native name was -“Setokwe.” Mogoma’s kraal has been moved from the hill to the valley on -the south-west side. The chief states he never knew of the waterfall -near Renders’ hut as described by Mr. Philips, and certainly owing to -the formation of the rock it is difficult to see where there could have -been one. In other respects the description of the spot where Renders -lived in the Nini country (R. G. S. Journals, Dec., 1900, and Feb., -1901) is accurate, save that Chicagomboni is eleven miles south-west of -Zimbabwe. Mogoma has distinct recollections of the visits of Dr. Mauch -and Mr. Philips to Renders about 1871, and states that Cherimbila, the -paramount chief, also visited Renders at this spot. Both Renders and -Dr. Mauch took Mr. Philips to see Zimbabwe, but they did not stay long -there. - -After living in Mogoma’s village a little over two years, Renders moved -to Chirimbila’s kraal, a few miles north of Mogoma’s, and lived there -for three years, when he died. He was buried close to the kraal. - -The Chicagomboni Hill is at the south-western extremity of the Livouri -Range, and on the west side has a precipitous drop of about 700 ft. -Half-way up the face of the cliffs is a narrow ledge running across -them, and at the northern end of the ledge, and on a raised rock -platform, was Renders’ abode, the remains of which can still be seen. -Mogoma’s old kraal was on this ledge. At the point where was Renders’ -hut, the cliff, at a height of 60 ft. above the ledge, protrudes -outwards some 50 ft., thus forming a lofty and gigantic roof over the -place were Renders lived. This is known as _I-Baku_—the cave. There are -some narrow fissures in the face of the cliff which open out on to the -ledge, but not one of these is worthy of the name of cave. In these -Renders stored his trading goods and ivory. - -[Illustration: FINGER ROCK, “MORGENSTER,” NEAR ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: I-BAKU (THE CAVE), CHICAGOMBONI, ZIMBABWE, WHEREIN ADAM -RENDERS, THE REDISCOVERER OF GREAT ZIMBABWE, LIVED FROM 1868 TO 1871] - -From this point is gained one of the finest and most extensive views -in Rhodesia. It extends over M’Chibi district, the valley of the Tokwe, -the Belingwe Hills, the Selukwe Hills, and the high ground further to -the west and north-west. Three hundred feet directly below is Mogoma’s -new kraal and the adjoining village of Passi. Anyone staying a few days -at Zimbabwe should not miss visiting this spot. The path from Zimbabwe -leads past Motumi’s and Masua’s kraals, ascending all the way. Any of -the “boys” at Mogabe’s kraal would act as guide, but on arrival at -the hill it would be well to send for Mogoma, or one of his headmen, -as this would dispense with the necessity of descending some hundreds -of feet to the valley, in addition to which the approach to the ledge -being hidden among large rocks, it is difficult to reach it without a -local guide. - -_A jaunt along the Zimbabwe and Motelekwe ancient road._—One often -wondered along what part of the country on the south or east of -Great Zimbabwe lay the ancient road from the coast to this old-world -metropolitan centre. Several suggestions more or less possible have -been made since the preoccupation days as to the ancient road. That -the ruins at Mapaku (the caves), seven miles distant towards the -south-east, formed one of the posting stations on such a road may be -considered as highly probable. Visitors have generally favoured the -conjecture that the road from Zimbabwe to Mapaku must have passed to -the north of the Beroma Range, which, seen from Zimbabwe, from which it -is two miles distant, forms a continuous granite rampart some 600 ft. -high, four miles long, and about one and a half miles broad, stretching -from north to south. This range appears to present a solid obstacle -to any approach from Zimbabwe. A detour round its north end and along -its eastern base as far as Mapaku would make the distance at least ten -miles. Moreover, on this line the kopjes and valleys have recently -been thoroughly searched for any traces of ancient occupation, and -none have been found. This therefore shows that such suggested route, -had it actually been the ancient road, would have been altogether -undefended for ten miles in an awkward country where the valleys, -gorges, kloofs, and boulders would have provided splendid vantage -points for attacks on the gold- and ivory-laden convoys proceeding from -Zimbabwe to the coast. - -Schlichter Gorge, running south at the east end of Zimbabwe Valley, has -also been suggested as the ancient approach to Zimbabwe. Certainly, -viewed from the Acropolis, this would appear to be the only natural -road, but the position of the gorge, as can be seen when visited, -negatives the suggestion. The gorge at its southern end is practically -impassable. It is filled up at several points with solid sections of -cliff which have fallen into it from the steep sides on either hand, -and though the Mapudzi stream finds its way under these obstructions, -the traveller must climb the almost perpendicular sides some seventy to -a hundred feet to descend again beyond the obstructions, and further on -repeat the climbing to pass a further barrier. In this gorge and on the -summit of its cliffs there are no traces of walls to defend the defile, -while an enemy could easily destroy the convoy, for the pass forms a -veritable military trap. The distance from Zimbabwe to Mapaku in this -direction would be at least nine miles. - -Thus these two conjectured routes may for many reasons be dismissed -as impracticable. But there remain two other possible routes to be -considered, and both of these pass over the Beroma Range. The first, -the one traversed by Mr. Bent and by all visitors to Mapaku, keeps to -the Motelekwe track past East Kopje (Mazanda) till opposite Chenga’s -kraal, through which the path leads, and up the long trough-like valley -on the Beroma Range, which depression is formed by the two parallel -lines of the summits of the range. On the east line of summit are -two depressions, and visitors are taken by the northern of these past -Mandarali kraal, which is on the edge of the cliff facing east, then -down the side of the range and along its base southwards to Molinije’s -kraal at Mapaku. This line of route makes the distance a little over -seven miles. The local natives say that this path from Zimbabwe to -Mapaku is a very long one. On it a careful search has failed to -discover any traces of ruins. - -A well-defined line of route protected at several strategic points -by ruins of buildings indicates, beyond doubt, the actual road of -the ancients. This makes the distance barely six miles, which is the -shortest to Mapaku, and along it runs a much-frequented native track, -used by the numerous long string of “boys” coming up, between the -harvest and the sowing, from the districts of the Lower Motelekwe and -the eastern stretches of the Lundi and Limpopo rivers, to seek work in -the gold district west of Victoria. The ruins protecting this route -form a chain of forts, which occur at intervals of about one mile and -a quarter. On the Zimbabwe-Mapaku section of this route there are the -remains of five substantial and well-constructed ancient buildings. -It is along this section and a further section of the chain of ruins -extending from Zimbabwe to Majerri that the trip here described was -taken. - -At 3.30 a.m. the six boys to carry blankets, food, cooking utensils, -survey and photographic apparatus, botanical case, insect bottles, -rifle, and a few tools, were waiting ready to start for the Majerri -Ruins in the Motelekwe district, some twenty miles south-east of Great -Zimbabwe. The moon was almost at the full, but would set an hour before -sunrise. This is the best time of day to start on a walking expedition, -as one may then hope to break the back of the distance before the sun’s -heat could be felt. Five boys took up their loads, each about 35 lbs., -and our guide marched on ahead with the rifle. Our little party passed -down the Motelekwe track till the East Ruins were reached. It was -perfectly light and a greenish-grey mistiness invested the Valley of -Ruins, the Acropolis, and the Elliptical Temple. Walking silently we -passed through the ruins of the dead city to the point where the old -road to the coast leaves Zimbabwe. - -At East Ruins the track to the upper reaches of the Motelekwe, and to -Arowi, rounds off at the foot of East Kopje towards the north-east. -Our path took us slightly south of east. But the Beroma Range looked -like a Titanic wall of granite cliff barring our passage in that -direction. “Sheba’s Breasts” (_Sueba_, black; _marsgi_, a corruption of -the word meaning bald-headed), a pair of bare and round-topped hills -on the southern end of the summit of the range, stand clearly against -the greenish sky, and above them the morning star is just appearing. -_Sueba_ is marked on all maps of Rhodesia as “Mount Sheba”; but the -names “Sheba’s Breasts” and “Mount Sheba” are very modern indeed, -dating back only to 1891. This pair of hills can very well be seen -from the Tokwe, where the old Pioneer Road from the Lundi crosses that -river. Evidently some member of the column familiar with Mr. Rider -Haggard’s works, knowing that Great Zimbabwe lay just behind those -hills, bestowed these names upon them, and so they have been known ever -since. - -Our path led down a slight valley from East Ruins to the Mapudzi -stream, and here the Beroma was found not to be such an obstacle to -our progress as was at first imagined, for on its west side is a broad -defile leading up to the ledge of land a third way between the base -and summit of the range, and at the top of the defile, and a hundred -yards to the left, is a well-built ruin which guards the approach up -the defile. Chenga’s Ruin, as it is called, occupies a position well -chosen for defensive purpose, and presents several good architectural -and constructive features. Here the coastward-bound convoy would first -realise they had quite left Zimbabwe behind them, and would start -to count the fifteen to twenty days of their tedious and, no doubt, -highly dangerous journey to the sea, which should bear them in their -gold-laden argosies homewards, either to the port of Eudaemon (the -present Aden), or to the _Moscha_ (“harbour”) of Ophir, metropolis of -the ancient Sabæans, or else, if later, to Ezion-Geber, the Jewish and -Phœnician port on the Red Sea during the reign of King Solomon. - -Chenga’s Ruin is outside the Zimbabwe ruins’ area, and is the first -posting station on the road to Sofala. In 1540 the Moslem Arab traders -in gold and ivory informed the Portuguese that the journey from Sofala -to Zimbabwe required from fifteen to twenty days (twelve to fifteen -miles a day), so that the later Arabs must have travelled on foot -taking native carriers. They too may have used as caravansaries the -line of ancient forts that stretches from Zimbabwe towards Sofala along -rivers whose valleys form the natural outlet to the coast for the -populations of Southern Rhodesia, for they could thus find admirable -protection at easy intervals for the night, or halt within the walls -built, possibly, by their remote ancestors. So the ancients leaving -Chenga’s Ruin might know they had at least fifteen days of tramping -ahead of them, for no evidence of their employing oxen, horses or -camels, or any wheeled vehicles, has come to light. The journey may -have even been longer, owing to the delays of the slave gangs and -carriers with their burdens of gold and ivory, and to the caution -needed in passing through a land clearly shown by the protecting -forts to have been hostile territory. The weary stretch of the Sabi -Valley lay before them—Sabi, a name which students of Chicaranga and -of other native languages state has no known derivation, and of which -the natives emphatically affirm “It is but a name. It means nothing to -us.” It has therefore been repeatedly conjectured that the name Sabi, -Sabæ, or Saba has a connection with the river with which they must -have been very well acquainted. From scriptural accounts we find that -such duplication of names of places was a practice of the old Semitic -peoples, as in Havilah, the local and pastoral country, and Havilah, -the foreign and mineralised country, in a superlative sense the gold -land, “and the gold of that land is good” (Genesis ii. 12). Instances, -in fact, occur almost everywhere from the remotest time down to the -founding of New South Wales, Nova Scotia, New York, and a hundred other -well-known places. - -Chenga’s Ruin was absolutely unknown to white men, as also were the -Beroma Ruins, until quite recently. The local natives repeatedly -denied the existence of any ruins on the Beroma Hills, and this denial -on their part, so authorities on Makalanga customs say, is perfectly -natural and to be expected, for all the ruins of this chain, like so -many others throughout the country, have been used by the Makalanga -up to the present day as burial-places, and being well aware of the -clearing of the Zimbabwe ruins, they feared lest these other ruins, -too, should be explored. But since they have learnt that in the work -at Zimbabwe the graves have been respected, they appear to be less -nervous, and as it is known for many miles round that substantial -rewards will be paid for information as to other and fresh ruins, they -sometimes volunteer their information and offer themselves as guides. -Thus some nine additional ruins have now been discovered and inspected. -But the three ruins on the Beroma Hills which at strategic points guard -our path were found by the author on making a systematic search of all -the hills in the district of Zimbabwe. - -From the ledge on the west face of the Beroma Range on which Chenga’s -Ruin is situated the ground rises gently towards a broad depression -in the western crest of the range into a long valley, which runs from -north to south and from end to end of the top of the hills. The path -after passing through the farmstead of David (a native teacher) passes -up the valley southwards for half a mile and then turns east at a -sharp angle towards the most southerly of the two depressions on the -eastern crest. Within a few hundred yards, on the right-hand side of -the path where it turns east, and on a low, rocky knoll, is a second -ruin—Beroma Ruin—which is well-built, and has a rather fine, rounded -entrance. The southern half of this ruin is now reduced to a few -piles of granite blocks. On the south-west side of this ruin is one -of “Sheba’s Breasts,” Marsgi. On the south side of the path is Sueba, -the other “Breast.” Half-way between Beroma Ruin and Sueba, and on -the south side of the path, is a cluster of tall, pillar-like rocks, -which look in the serene moonlight, and at a little distance, like a -cathedral built of white stone. The natives call these rocks Rusinga. -On the left-hand side of the path, on the ridge of the depression on -the eastern line of summits, is a tall column of huge boulders, which, -when seen from the south side, exactly resemble one of the soapstone -birds on beams found by Mr. Bent at Zimbabwe. - -[Illustration: THE BIRD ROCK, NEAR ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: VIEW OF MOTELEKWE RIVER NEAR GOBELE’S KRAAL] - -On Sueba is another ruin which overlooks the depression, through which -the path runs south-east down the east side of the Beroma Range towards -the Mapaku Ruins, which form the fourth posting station from Zimbabwe. -Climbing Sueba, one can at once see that this line of route, owing to -the topographical structure of the range, is not only the most direct -from Zimbabwe, but the most natural for anyone crossing the Beroma -Range. - -Just as the path starts on the descent to the Mapaku Ruins the -scenery to the north-east and south, as viewed by moonlight, is truly -magnificent. Towards the north-east the sky-line is formed by the -jagged crest of the romantic Livouri and Inyuni Hills, while the -Moshagashi Valley is wrapped in a mantle of greenish mist, above which -towers the lofty Arowi Peak in solitary grandeur. Here the ancients on -their way to the coast would have their last view of Zimbabwe. - -We arrive at Mapaku kraal (_Baku_, “cave”; _Mapaku_, “caves”) just -as the light is sufficient to make the main features of the scenery -perfectly distinct. Here the sub-chief Molinye and his people are -already stirring and squatting round fires in the open. The kraal is -situated at the east base of a cluster of high cliffs, and these cliffs -are full of caves and deep fissures used as passages. The kraal which -formerly occupied these rocky vantage grounds is now removed to level -ground, and built without a fence of any kind. Molinye is a younger -brother of the Mogabe Handisibishe by the same mother, and takes the -name of their father, the Mogabe-Molinye. He is an intelligent man and -very active. He considers himself the custodian of the neighbouring -ruins of Mapaku, and just as his brother at Zimbabwe says to all -visitors, “Here is Zimbabwe. One shilling!” so Molinye’s first remark -to visitors is, “Here are the caves. Two shillings!” or “Here are the -ruins. Two shillings!” Molinye is very proud of the caves, for here his -people successfully defied the Matabele and Amaswazi raids. In these -caves the women, children, cattle and grain were safely hidden, and -the approaches to them could well be defended by two or three men as -against a hundred of the enemy. - -Molinye’s tall figure leads the way to the Mapaku Ruins, which since -1891 have been known as “Little Zimbabwe.” Here our breakfast is laid -out in the central enclosure, and Molinye sits enviously watching -the boys eating “bully beef.” Evidently he will not be happy till he -receives a tin, and he is given one. Still he is not content, and urges -the payment of a further two shillings for taking us to the ruins. He -only knows two words of English, and these are “Two shillings,” but -having already paid him one florin, which is more than his due, he -fails to draw a second, and is at last content with a box of matches. -Natives always ask for about ten or twenty times more than they expect -to receive. - -The sun is just showing above a long black hill—Ingumaruru—and as -we have ten to twelve miles to cover before we reach Majerri’s, our -journey is taken up afresh. There is another ruin at Mandindindi’s, -lying on our route, but our time will not permit us to visit it on this -trip. - -From Mapaku the path leads south to the right bank of the Motelekwe, -about a mile and a half away and near Gobele’s kraal, which is from -this point of view backgrounded at some distance by the steep and -rocky Goruma Hill. Here the river is wide, and has, even in the dry -season, large pools many acres in area. The granite rocks in the bed -of the river are pierced with round holes a few feet deep, all of -which have been made by the action of the water. The path then passes -through Gobele’s kraal and down a small defile towards a drift across -the river. This drift is only used by the people of the neighbouring -kraals, and the paths on each side of it are very narrow, while -the crossing is rather tortuous and slippery. From above the drift -we continue on the path south-west to the south end of the Goruma -shoulders at a quarter of a mile distant. We were now at least a mile -and a half from the river, which has turned south-east through some -dark-looking, tall kopjes, and from the higher ground we could see that -the rivers which flow to the Motelekwe form swamps just before reaching -it, and by keeping on the high ground these are avoided and the rivers -are more easily crossed. In fact, by taking this path we cut off an -eastward bend in the Motelekwe, striking it again at a wide, easy, and -natural drift some eight miles farther on. - -About a mile from Gobele’s we come to the Meziro, a perennial stream, -300 yds. from which on the east side of the path is the Rumeni Ruin, -built on the slope of a hill. This ruin occupies an area of 111 ft. -from east to west and 63 ft. from north to south. The highest wall is -now only about 6 ft. high. The style of building is peculiar—a large, -well-built, rounded buttress being at the north entrance, and the walls -show both superior and inferior workmanship, while the western side is -formed of arcs of circles end on end. The Meziro flows south and east -of the ruin in the valley below. - -Two hundred yards back along the path and about one hundred yards from -it on the west side is an old Makalanga wall with portions of the -wall of an oval enclosure. The structure is of no great age, and is -definitely claimed by the natives as the work of some few generations -past. Its total length is 54 ft., and the area of the enclosure is 16 -ft. at its longest parts. Some old Makalanga clay flooring has been -used as building material at different points in the wall. - -The journey south, and later south-east, is continued, and the Meziro -and Mazili rivers crossed, while the following kraals are passed in -order—Chinaka’s to the left, Skarduza’s on the right, and Manamuli also -on the right. In front is a very high kopje with almost perpendicular -sides. This is Rushumbi, a noted landmark for many miles round. The -path leads past the south of this hill and up another hill, where is -Marota kraal. This hill, which has a very considerable elevation, is -exceedingly steep on the south side, and there is an extensive view -from the summit down the Motelekwe and Tokwe valleys. Marota was the -largest kraal seen on this journey. Half an hour’s walk from Marota -brought us to a natural drift on the Motelekwe, which here bends -south-south-east. The river-bed at this point is about 200 yds. wide, -and in the dry season is very easy to cross, from sandbank island to -sandbank island and scrambling over large granite rocks with smooth -glassy surfaces. There is no doubt that this is the best drift within -a good many miles either up or down the river, and it lies, as seen in -the distance from Mount Sueba, the eastern “Sheba’s Breast,” exactly in -the natural and unbroken line of country up which is the easiest and -most natural approach to Zimbabwe from the south-east, thus avoiding -bewildering mazes of kopjes and rough country which lie on either side. -The topography of the country clearly points out the ancient route, and -it is along this that our present journey is made. At this drift we -saw a boy of about nine years of age with a skin no darker than that -of an ordinary Spaniard and with almost perfect features. Both parents -were ascertained to be Makalanga. - -From the east bank of the drift the path ascends for a distance of -nearly two miles between the drift and the Majerri Ruins, which at -this distance lie half a mile to the south of the path on a line of -kopjes to the south-west of another Mapaku (“the caves”). This Mapaku -must not be confused with the Mapaku we had visited during the small -hours of the day, for wherever there are caves there is a local Mapaku; -hence there are several places of this name within a score of miles -from Zimbabwe. The name of the headman at this Mapaku is Munda, and -on sending to his village, one of his men will act as guide to the -ruins, which are rather difficult to find by anyone unacquainted with -the district. On our way from the drift we passed several very long -game-drive fences and large game pits, and saw two herds of wild pigs -and several large buck. - -By three o’clock in the afternoon we had reached the ruins, and a camp -for the night was made in one of the enclosures. Soon afterwards the -boys were busy with hatchets cutting away brush from the sides of the -walls, so that a survey could be made and photographs taken. The ruins -are much larger and better built than we had been led to believe. There -are sixteen enclosures, also a passage 290 ft. long running from end -to end of the ruins. Chevron pattern is on the west face of a very -substantial wall of what appears to have been an important enclosure. -We worked at the measurements till it was dark, when we partook of -our evening meal. The full moon rose a little later and flooded the -ancient building with light, so that further examinations could be -made. The enclosure in which our camp for the night was formed was made -most picturesque with the lights of moon and fire, the walls gleaming -white with the heavy mantle of lichen which covered them. This white -appearance of the walls is a prominent feature in all the ruins of the -Motelekwe chain, most probably accounted for by the mists that usually -hang over the line of the river. - -The talking and singing of the boys, the music of their Makalanga -pianos, seemed in perfect harmony with the solemn stillness of the -ruins and of the night. We turned in early, and at five in the morning -we were again busy completing measurements and noting up descriptions -of architectural features and styles of construction. At ten o’clock -the principal parts of the ruins were photographed, and at eleven we -set out on our return to Zimbabwe. - -The objective of our next expedition down the Motelekwe Valley will be -another set of ruins still further south-east. There are other ruins -beyond these again, and we hope to be able by such expeditions to -obtain full descriptions, with photographs and plans, of all the ruins -of the Motelekwe chain. - -Munda, the headman at Mapaku (Majerri), states that only three white -men have ever seen these ruins, two came together and one alone, but -that these visits were made some years ago. One of the Messrs. Posselts -was of this number. - -On this journey we found the women were all decorated with the furrow -pattern on their bare stomachs. The “female breast and furrow pattern” -was on all washing-tubs, drums, granaries, and furnaces, and also on -some doors, and further worked out in clay on the sides of the huts. -Check pattern adorned some of the huts, but mainly the inside walls. -Some very well-built semi-circular walls for screening open fires were -found at some of the villages. - - • • • • • - -_Some of the denizens of the Zimbabwe district._—These are most -numerous in the Elliptical Temple when the size of its area is -considered, for this building abounds in bird, animal, reptile, insect, -and plant life. Protected by high walls all round, it provides an -area free from the disturbing effects of grass fires, sheltered from -cold winds, and full of rank tropical vegetation and jungle. Here the -gorgeous lapis-lazuli and turquoise blue of the jays and the brilliant -scarlet and rich metallic green of the honey-sucker flash brightly in -keen contrast to the white lichened walls. Yellow and grey hornbills, -barn owls and owlets, wagtails, weaver birds, pigeons and doves, and -little birds with yellow, white, red or blue or mottled breasts and -wings, are constantly to be seen in the temple courts. One large barn -owl has its usual perch on a branch near the summit of the Conical -Tower, while “Go-away” birds are incessantly urging us to “Go away!” - -Numerous squirrels climb the walls and spring along their summits. -Chameleons, one minute pale green, the next a mottled yellow, grey, -and black, climb with aristocratic movements up the orchid-clad -trunks of trees, pausing at intervals to fold their front paws in a -comic attitude of prayerfulness. Large and small lizards of brilliant -colourings, mainly magenta, Prussian and electric blues, and a -startling orange, bask upon the ancient stones. Puff-adders, grass -snakes, and mambas haunt the place, the latter climbing the highest -trees and ascending steep, smooth sides without any apparent necessity -for picking their way up rough surfaces. Pythons have been seen, and -a python’s nest with about two dozen white leathery eggs, from which -the young had been recently hatched, was found in the centre of the -temple. On commencing work here in May, 1902, scores of cast-off -snake skins of all sizes up to 5 ft. in length were found all about -the temple. Scorpions which hide under the stones suggest to one the -necessity of being careful in sitting down. Centipedes and large -millipedes, snails with white spiral shells from 6 in. to 9 in. long, -frogs, which on wet days persistently urge us to “Work! work!” abound, -while after sundown crowds of large night-moths and bats flutter in -the air. Brilliant butterflies, dragon flies, and fire flies, gigantic -spiders, spiders which make their trap-doors of clay, hornets, bees, -beetles, mosquitoes, and other stinging insects, and those which assume -imitative forms. Tortoise-shells and porcupine quills were found, but -no tortoise or porcupine. The number of skeletons of wild animals -found in the grass was sufficient to suggest thoughts of Noah and his -zoological cargo. - -The birds of the Zimbabwe district include quantities of blue jays, -hornbills, honey-birds, honey-suckers, bee-eaters, several sorts of -rollers, crested kingfishers, South African thrushes and babbling -thrushes, shrikes, swifts, swallows, and martins, weaver birds, owls, -corncrakes, night jars, woodpeckers, larks, wagtails, doves, pigeons, -white storks, herons, secretary birds, bush crows, vultures, hawks, -guinea-fowl, sand grouse, quails, and partridges, while paaw (bush -bustard) is sometimes met with. - -Two ostriches with black and white feathers once approached within -100 yds. of Havilah Camp. A covey of African grey parrots fled over -the huts going south in the springtime. One bird of the plumage and -shape of an ordinary skylark soars high in the air, remaining in one -position, but instead of singing it flaps its wings loudly for some -minutes together. It is best heard just before sunrise. - -During the dry season game animals are not plentiful in this locality, -but when the grass has started to grow after a veld fire they arrive in -fairly good numbers. Reed buck, sable antelope, and springbok have been -within sight of the camp. - -Lions for some years past have not been seen at Zimbabwe, though they -are in continuous residence on the Livouri Range, some eight miles to -the west, and also at one or two other places about the same distance -from Zimbabwe. But with the advent of buck they are known to come -within two or three miles of our camp. Their spoor has frequently been -seen on the road between Zimbabwe and Victoria, and they have recently -killed donkeys within five miles of Zimbabwe. On one occasion only -have we heard lions roaring, and they must have been almost two miles -away. Jackals are a nuisance, and come to the camp for poultry. Large -leopards have been shot in the neighbourhood during the author’s stay -at Zimbabwe. - -Natives state that within their time herds of tusker elephants have -been wont to frequent the Zimbabwe Valley, and they point out certain -trees which have been damaged by them. The elephants have now gone -south-east. The traces of two ivory trading stations of the late -sixties are still to be seen at Zimbabwe. - -Eagles soar above Zimbabwe Hill and the topmost line of cliffs. Two -eaglets fallen from the nest were found in the Acropolis ruins, one -each spring. One died of its injuries, and the other lived for two -months at our camp. The boys were fond of feeding “the big chicken,” -and it eventually died in consequence of its gluttony. Hawks abound on -the hill, and there are also kites and owls. Large black crows with a -white patch on the back of the neck, and with vulture-shaped beak, also -crows with white breast and wing tips, but with a raven-shaped beak, -are constantly flying round the hill. Here are also wild tebie cats and -tiger cats, ant-bears, conies, squirrels, and at least five species of -large baboons. The constant parading of the latter to and fro on the -summit has formed a well-beaten track. These creatures bark and cry—the -crying is exactly like that of a human being. Toward noon they usually -descend to the valley and romp about on the open granite spaces. So -destructive are these particular baboons that the local Makalanga have -been obliged to abandon their gardens on the south side of the hill. -Their spoor has been frequently found within our camp. The reptiles -here are large pythons, mambas, iguanas, and lizards of all colours. - -The plant life found in the temple was very rich and diversified, and -each specimen was of larger growth and bloom than those of the same -species growing outside the walls. Here are many sorts of elegant -ferns, but mostly small, including maiden-hair fern, also the ordinary -bracken. Stag’s-horn moss and plants of carnose foliage grow in -the joints of the walls. Beds of scarlet cannæ, Cape gooseberries, -raspberries, crimson and mauve gladioli, convolvuli, large and small, -white, purple, yellow, and mauve, verbenas, heliotrope, azaleas, also -a flower exactly like the daffodil, and arums or St. John’s lilies, -flags, mauve-flowered peas, a blue flower like borage, and blue and -yellow ground orchids, covered the surface of the interior. Nettles -and nettle trees, stinging plants, and thorns of all sorts formed -prominent features in the vegetation of the temple. The trees within -the walls were numerous, and included varieties of hard and soft -woods. Some were of gigantic girth and height, rising to 60 ft. Wild -fig-trees and evergreen hardwoods predominate. The “Zimbabwe creeper,” -a climbing plant peculiarly local, is a great feature in all the ruins -at Zimbabwe, and so far has not been found elsewhere in Rhodesia. -This creeper resembles jessamine in leaf and stalk, only it has light -pink, bell-shaped pendent flowers growing in clusters at the end of -each spray, these being about the shape and size of a foxglove flower. -Orchids with yellow flowers grow on the trees, from which are also -suspended lichen festoons some 3 ft. long. The monkey-rope trees once -interlaced the tops of the trees with their runners and created a -semi-darkness in the temple even at brightest noontide. - -On the hill tobacco, once cultivated here by the natives, now grows -wild. Large beds of scarlet cannæ, Cape gooseberries, hemlocks, and -blackjacks are seen in most parts of the hill, while every flower of -the veld is represented. Monkey-ropes, wild vines, wild orange, fig, -nut, greengage, currant, and raspberry flourish here. The kafir-baum, -which flowers profusely when leafless early in the spring, and abounds -at Zimbabwe, provides a striking contrast of brilliant scarlet to the -grey granite cliffs in front of which it flourishes. The flat-topped -umbrella trees (_mimosa_) impart an odd effect to the hill. The -Zimbabwe creeper grows very extensively on the north and west sides -of the hill. Cacti, euphorbia, and liliums, also bulbous plants, are -multifarious, while tall aloes give an old-world appearance to the hill. - -Palms with fronds 10 ft. long, tree-ferns 8 ft. high, and large -areas of _Osmunda regalis_ (royal fern) are to be seen in most of -the glens and gorges of this locality. The blue lotus lily (_Nymphæa -stellata_) grows in most pools of water, while the yellow everlasting -flower (_Helipterum incanum_) is plentiful, and the bright red -sealing-wax-coloured flower (_Erythrina kaffra_) shots the veld grass -as daisies do an English meadow. The sugar bush (_Protea mellifera_) -though present is not found in quantity. Bamboos grow in the -neighbourhood, also sugar-cane, and wild cotton. The mahobohobo is not -indigenous to the country, but is the most usual tree found here. Its -area covers many square miles of this district. Like the wild fig, the -mahobohobo fruit ripens in the spring only. - - - - - CHAPTER V - - ZIMBABWE NATIVES - - - 1. NATIVES AND RUINS - -It may easily be imagined that researches as to the origin of the ruins -cannot be furthered by inquiries instituted among the present native -peoples as to any history or tradition concerning these structures. -The chief value, however, of such inquiries is that they enable us to -realise in what conditions both the ruins and the district have existed -during the last few centuries. But such inquiries only take us back -to a period of two hundred years short of that time when Portuguese -writers referred to these buildings. - -The migratory character of the South African natives is well known. -Not only whole nations move, but the tribes among themselves move -also, thus making it exceedingly difficult to trace their migrations -except for a few generations back. The Portuguese historians of the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries referred to the Makalanga nation as -occupying this country with their centre at “the Great Zimbabwe,” where -resided the Monomotapa, or supreme chief, and where was “the mightie -wall of five and twenty spans thick.” Three hundred years after this -was written we find a dense population of Makalanga (“the People of -the Sun”) still occupying Southern Mashonaland and forming the great -bulk of its inhabitants.[27] In this respect, though their various -tribes have frequently changed localities, the Makalanga as a general -rule have not followed the migratory custom of South African peoples. -Makalanga are to be found in both Matabeleland and Mashonaland, but -mainly in the latter province, where the Chicaranga language, which Dos -Santos in 1602 described as “the best and most polished of all Kafir -languages which I have seen in this Ethiopia,” is still the language -of the nation. Makalanga are also to be found in Barotseland, whither -the Barotse[28] and their dependents the Makalanga migrated, in 1836–8, -just previously to, and at the time of, the Matabele invasion of what -is now known as Matabeleland. - -[Illustration: A MAKALANGA, ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: THE CAMP WATCHMAN (KUMURI)] - -But for nearly four hundred years the historical relations and the -very existence of the Makalanga and their history were forgotten. From -being a powerful and semi-civilised people (see _The Ancient Ruins of -Rhodesia_, chapter x.) they have become a people of no account—mere -“Makalaka,” as the people of the present Bechuanaland scornfully -called them in reference to their present slavish position. To their -successive conquerors they have always been but “dogs of slaves.” - -So far as the purely local natives are concerned, the following notes, -based upon a series of conferences of the oldest native authorities -held at Zimbabwe during 1902 and 1903, at which Mr. Alfred Drew, -Native Commissioner, the Rev. A. A. Louw, Dutch Reformed Mission -near Zimbabwe, and Dr. Helm, Medical Missionary, and other admitted -authorities on native language and customs, have taken part, will -explain the local occupations for almost if not more than one hundred -and fifty years. The local Makalanga, Barotse, and Amangwa are -agreed upon the correctness of the statements here recorded, and the -information so obtained has also been verified by the above-named -gentlemen in other quarters. - -(_a_) In this portion of Southern Mashonaland the Makalanga have -formed, since long before 1570, the greatest portion of the population, -especially in the Zimbabwe district. This is both history and also -well-rooted tradition among the natives, going back for very many -generations. - -(_b_) The Makalanga have been subject to several successive conquerors, -of whom the Barotse in Mashonaland and the Matabele in Matabeleland -were the last. They have only very indistinct traditions as to their -previous conquerors. - -(_c_) The Barotse occupied both provinces, establishing central -strongholds in all districts. They collected tribute from the -Makalanga, and this was taken every year from all the centres to the -_Mambo_ or _Mamba_, the dynastic chief, for the time being, of the -Barotse. And these Mambos resided at Thabas Imamba. Both Makalanga -and Barotse were, and still are, most excellent builders with stones. -[Mr. Drew minutely cross-examined the natives with regard to the -situation or identity of Thabas Imamba]. This is the fixed belief of -every Barotse who is questioned on the subject, and the old men say -it is also within their own knowledge. Before this fresh evidence -was obtained, the authors of _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_ had -published a similar statement on the strength of evidences secured in -Matabeleland. Mr. Neal also stated that no ruin in Rhodesia showed more -evidences of extensive and prolonged occupation than did the ruins on -Thabas Imamba. - -(_d_) Jerri’s people (Barotse) never lived at or near Zimbabwe, as -white men had believed they had, but they left what they called “The -Great Buildings of Stone” (Khami) west of where Bulawayo now stands -in 1836–7, and moved to Jerri Mountains, seventy miles south of -Zimbabwe. They left Khami immediately before the Matabele arrived. -On passing through Zimbabwe they encamped for one night only on a -hill one mile west of the ruins. There are many old men who remember -these circumstances, while the general local belief is that Jerri’s -people lived at Khami Ruins, which are well known to the natives here. -[It has always been contended that this tribe of Barotse resided at -Khami for very many generations, but there are very many evidences in -support of this established belief, which are now in hand, and are now -forthcoming.] - -(_e_) The head kraal of the Zimbabwe Barotse was at the foot of the -south-east side of the Rusivanga Kopje, and not on the summit, where -the walls and the remains of very substantial huts are old Makalanga. -The Barotse also had a large kraal on the north-east side of the -Bentberg overlooking the Elliptical Temple. [The present Barotse -headmen claim the pottery in the débris at these places as having -been made by their people some four or five generations back, if not -earlier.] - -(_f_) The Zimbabwe Makalanga did not reside in the ruins, as this in -later generations was opposed to their traditions, but they used the -ruins up to ten years ago as cattle kraals and places for carrying on -their copper and iron-smelting operations, for offering sacrifices, -and for burial-places. Once they occupied them as residences, but -possibly the fear of the ruins at night caused them to desert them as -residences, probably owing to the increased number of graves which they -contained. The Barotse did not appear to have been inspired by this -fear, for they have occupied ruins all over the country. - -All the remains of native huts and many of the native articles found -in the ruins must be at least six generations old, if not much older. -When the present Mogabe Handisibishe took up his residence on the -north side of Zimbabwe Hill, in the ruins of the Acropolis, there had -been no Makalanga occupations for many generations previously. All -the remains of Makalanga huts found on the Acropolis, and round the -faces of the hill, and outside the area occupied by Mogabe’s kraal, -belong to Makalanga, who had ceased to occupy them for very many years -previously. When Mogabe arrived these remains were considered by his -people to be exceedingly old. - -(_g_) The present Zimbabwe Makalanga originally came from Masungye, in -the direction of the Lower Sabi. Mogabe is the dynastic title of each -succeeding chief of this tribe. The Mogabe-Molinye moved to Jena and -finally to the Beroma country, in the neighbourhood of Zimbabwe. The -succeeding Mogabe, a son of Molinye, moved up from Beroma to Mangwa -(Morgenster), four miles south of Zimbabwe, from which place he drove -out the Amangwa people, who occupied the Zimbabwe district and the -country for a considerable distance round about. The next Mogabe, -Chipfuno, a son of the previous Mogabe, settled at Wuwuli, five miles -south of Zimbabwe, and later his younger brother, Handisibishe, the -present Mogabe, succeeded Chipfuno in the dynastic rule. Handisibishe -is seventy years of age, but Chipfuno was much older. - -The connection between the present Zimbabwe Makalanga and the Zimbabwe -ruins only dates back authoritatively for some sixty or seventy years, -but their opinion as to the age of the native remains at the ruins, as -found by them when they arrived, added to a similar account based on -the longer residence of the Barotse and Amangwa, and on their history -and traditions, enables investigations to be carried back at least -eight generations. - -(_h_) The oldest known natives who have resided at Zimbabwe are the -Amangwa, who were driven out by Mogabe Handisibishe. These were -originally a tribe of pure Makalanga, but by marriage with their -erstwhile over-lords, the local Barotse, many of their people have -acquired some of the distinctive features of the Barotse, while a large -proportion are still in every respect true Makalanga. These people now -reside in Nini district, eight miles south-west of Zimbabwe, their -nearest kraal being Bingura’s, which is two miles distant. They can -speak with regard to the state of the ruins as they were conditioned -some generations ago. They state they never occupied the Acropolis -ruins except when Amaswazi raiding parties were in the district, -and then only as a temporary refuge, and that many large walls have -completely fallen down. The Amangwa were once a numerous and powerful -people. Their kraals were built in the valleys, close to the ruins and -on the nearest kopjes. - -[Illustration: MAKALANGA “BOYS” FENCING, ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: MOTUMI MONGWAINE ] - -Mogabe Handisibishe took advantage of a famine in the Zimbabwe district -when he attacked them, and perpetrated great cruelties on their women -in order to make them divulge where the relics from the ruins were -hidden, but the Amangwa did not yield on this point. It is curious -that so many relics of prehistoric value have been found in the Nini -district where the Amangwa now reside. The wooden bowl, carved with the -zodiacal signs, the soapstone cylinder, etc., were discovered in Nini, -and the best native authorities affirm that the Amangwa still have -relics in their possession. - -(_i_) The correct name for Zimbabwe is _Zim-b[=a]b-[=gw]i_, meaning -“buildings or houses of stones.” The natives never apply the name -_Zim-bab-gwi_ to the Elliptical Temple, but always speak of it as -_Rusingu_, “the wall.” _Zim-bab-gwi_ is only applied to the ruins on -the hill. - -(_j_) The natives have no recollection or tradition with regard to the -Monomotapas, the dynastic chiefs of the mediæval Makalanga who resided -at Zimbabwe. - -(_k_) Barotse, Amangwa, and Makalanga have built walls in and near the -ruins. They state that their ancestors used to construct excellent -walls. [Mr. Drew, N.C., is of opinion that the Barotse now build better -walls than do the present Makalanga. The Makalanga were always famous -as good builders with stone.] - -(_l_) The natives show little or no interest as to the original -builders of the ruins. Some will say they were built by white men for -prisons, others will affirm the ancestors of their tribe built them. -Some tribes make definite claims to have built them, but Mr. Drew -considers these claims to be only poetic expressions conveying the idea -that such tribes had lived for so very many generations in the ruins -that they knew of no occupiers before them, and so imagine that their -ancestors must have built them. Of course, their claims to have built -minor walls within the ruins are, in many instances, obviously well -founded. - -(_m_) The natives assert, when pressed as to who removed the relics -from the ruins, that large birds came out of the sky, took them, and -carried them into the heavens. - -(_n_) “Fuko-ya-Nebandge”—the Mashonaland relic—possesses an unique -history and a weird romance, and is also of great intrinsic value -for such in Rhodesia as revel in researches into the history of past -occupiers of this country. The image is made of pottery, and is -hollow, the head (which has not been discovered) forming the stopper. -It was discovered by Mr. Harry Posselt in a cave near Zimbabwe. It -stands 11 in. high, and is about 16 in. long, and is marked with -geometric exactness with zebra stripes all over its body. The pot is -black, but the stripes are of a dull red colour. The name of it is -“Fuko-ya-Nebandge” (“the king’s favourite adviser”), and for at least -some generations of Makalanga it has exercised a potent magic spell -over the minds of the natives. It has now been secured for the museum -at Bulawayo. - -The following is Mr. Posselt’s account of its discovery:— - -In 1891 he was encamped at Fern Spruit, south of Victoria, near which -point are some hills. His Mashona boy informed him that among these -hills could be heard by anyone going near them the sound of cattle -bellowing, girls talking and singing, and that up on the hills was -a pot full of beads, but the local natives were too much afraid of -venturing up there in search of the pot, as it would mean certain -death. He did not ascend the hills, but his drivers and leaders went -up, but heard and saw nothing unusual. Until 1899 he had quite -forgotten the incident, but in August of 1900 he happened to be near -these particular hills collecting labour for the Chamber of Mines, and -conversed with a chief living there. He asked the chief the native -name of the hills, and the chief told him about the pot containing the -beads. He further told him that long ago a native went out hunting -on the hills, and found the pot with the beads in. The chief’s story -was to the effect that the native seeing the pot wanted to take the -beads out, and putting his hand into the pot, the pot got hold of his -hands and he could not shake it off, and he was obliged to carry the -pot poised on his head with his hand still fixed inside it. When he -arrived at the kraal his people prevented him entering it, as he might -bring evil upon the tribe. He was consequently compelled to encamp on a -stream near the kraal until his hand dropped off. He was fed secretly -by some of his people. After his death, instead of being buried in the -usual way, they pushed him with long sticks into a cave. - -The pot was left there for some considerable time afterwards, and it -was eventually discovered in another cave in the same hills, and was -regarded, and still is to this day, by the natives as a mystery, and -held in awe by them, and their belief was that if anyone approached the -cave he would die. If the pot changed its colours to dark red it meant -certain death. - -After he had secured the pot the natives came from near and far to -see it. One old native then told him of another pot, made like a mare -zebra, and that the “female pot” contained beads that glittered, and -that the pot in his (Mr. Posselt’s) possession was the “male pot.” The -native was ignorant of what gold was. The two pots, so he stated, used -to travel by themselves from their cave to Fulachama, a distance of -eight miles, to obtain water from the stream where they drank, coming -and going so often as to make a path. This Kafir asked where the -“female pot” was, well knowing Mr. Posselt had not found it. - -After his discovery he went to a chief who lives close by to where the -pot was found. This chief used to live in Zimbabwe. He said that the -chief who now lives in Zimbabwe was an enemy of his, and had supplanted -him, and that he had all the relics. To compel him to disclose the -place where the relics were hidden he resorted to torture, cutting off -women’s breasts and putting nose reims through men’s noses. Before -the ex-Zimbabwe chief was expelled from Zimbabwe he was in the habit -of offering up sacrifices of black oxen, and on each occasion used to -collect and display relics taken from the ruins. These consisted of -“yellow metal with sharp points” brought down from the top ruin, also a -yellow stick about 3 ft. 6 in. long with a knob on it, also a bowl or -dish, by information most probably of silver. The stick is now stated -to be in the possession of the chief. - - - 2. LOCAL NATIVES (GENERAL) - -The Zimbabwe district is very thickly populated by Makalanga. These -formerly lived in natural strongholds on the summits of rocky kopjes -difficult of approach, but now in almost every instance they have -removed their kraals from their almost inaccessible eyries, and have -built their villages on open country, without erecting any fences -whatsoever for their protection. Thus, locally, Mogabe has left his -hill fortress and caves, Baranazimba his strongly defended rocks, Lumbo -his rock-pillar, and now these three kraals, as in many scores of -other instances, are built in open country in absolutely indefensible -positions, with no post, rail, or thornbush to bar approach. At night -one can pass through almost any village unchallenged save by a Kafir -dog. Large stores of corn are in their granaries. Their belongings -are strewn about outside their huts, and everything is open to -the spoiler. But the inhabitants sleep soundly, assured and content, -because they recognise they are safe under the rule of a civilised -Government. - -[Illustration: MAKALANGA MOTHER AND CHILD, ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: THE MOGABE, HANDISIBISHE, CHIEF OF THE ZIMBABWE -MAKALANGA] - -Slightly more than a decade since all was most terribly different. -Tribe fought with tribe and village with village. Repeated Amaswazi -and Matabele raids “wiped out” without warning and without mercy whole -populations, capturing slaves, seizing the women, and killing, as was -their practice, the old people and children. None dared to stir from -his rocky fastness to cultivate his little patch of ground. Little -wonder is it that the spirit of these people was broken. - -To-day these Makalanga, who are essentially an agricultural race, have -covered the erstwhile devastated country with their plantations, and -converted these parts into the “Granary of Rhodesia,” and the leading -grain-producing district of this part of Mashonaland. Standing on -Zimbabwe Hill either at sunrise or sunset, one sees scattered over the -open country scores of columns of smoke rising from the villages, each -with its large area where the Makalanga work in absolute security, -and one is forced to realise that untold benefit has undoubtedly been -conferred upon the natives by the British occupation. - -The Makalanga of Zimbabwe district are considered to be, in -intellectual and physical qualifications, above many of their tribes -elsewhere. In some respects they are marvellously intelligent and quick -to perceive, shrewd, calculating, and clever, while in others they are -astonishingly dull, so that it is almost impossible to get them to -understand the simplest matter. They certainly evince far more feeling -and sensitiveness, are more amenable to direction, and readier and more -anxious to work, and are more honest and reliable than the average -Matabele. Physically, they are as a whole somewhat shorter in height, -are less robust, and have not the weight and strength of the Matabele, -but their vigour and agility give them the greater advantage. Yet there -are very many Makalanga in this district equal to any Matabele in -height, strength, form, and endurance. - -More than the French nation among Europeans, the Makalanga are -distinguished for their taste, tact, and courtesy among the Kafir races -of South-East Africa, only in their case the graceful movement, kingly -walk, politeness, neatness, rhythm of speech, and poetic expression, -are not the outcome of study, but are perfectly natural qualities bred -in the race. - -The contact of these people for many generations with the Portuguese -is shown in their speech. This is a feature noticeable in all native -tribes in Mashonaland, which were at any time located in or near -Portuguese territory. As stated below, Mogabe’s people originally came -from the direction of the border. The terminations of some of their -words are as distinctly Portuguese as one may hear at Lisbon or Oporto. -Their connection with the Portuguese caused them to follow the rule -common to that and some other Latin nations, viz. the interchange of -_R_ and _L_. _Selukwe_ thus becomes _Serukwe_, _Belingwe Beringwe_, -_Bulawayo Burawayo_, while in almost every word used by their people -further west containing _L_ the latter is substituted for _R_. Locally -they call themselves Mokaranga (_mo_ is a Chicaranga plural prefix), -“the people of the sun.” The Portuguese writers, De Barros (1552), Dos -Santos (1570), and Livio Sanuto (1588), give their name as _Mocaranga_. -_Makalaka_, the name of derision bestowed upon them by the tribes in -Bechuanaland, is known to them, but is never used by them, nor is -_M’Holi_ (slaves), a title which some of the more degenerate Makalangas -in Matabeleland have adopted as their personal and tribal name. - -The _totem_ or distinguishing sign of the local tribe of Makalanga is -_moyo_, the heart. Each tribe has its own totem, which may be the leg -of a certain buck or some particular bird. Should a bird or an animal -be the totem the tribe bearing that sign do not eat of the flesh of -such bird or animal, nor will they kill them. A man of one totem must -not marry a wife of a tribe bearing the same totem, but must seek one -of a tribe of Makalanga having another totem. Thus, as they affirm, -“Heart must not marry Heart, nor Lion marry Lion.” This rule enforced -through past ages has no doubt tended to maintain and improve their -physical condition, and accounts for their fine figures, splendid -health and general freedom from illnesses, and the almost utter absence -of deformity and lunacy. A tribe of the Baduma people also bears the -totem of the heart. The sub-tribal totem of the local Barotse[29] is -the lion. The lion, which is also the totem of the local Amangwa, only -includes rapacious animals, such as wild cats, wild dogs, etc. Certain -families in the same tribe or kraal have distinguishing signs, or what -may be termed sub-totems. The totem system also prevailed amongst the -early Semitic peoples prior to biblical times, and was later a feature -of Hebrew history; for instance, “The Lion of the tribe of Judah.” The -totem of the Ephraimites was a bull. - -In addition to the animal or bird that may constitute the totem -there are other animals and birds which they venerate, and will not -kill, eat, or touch. The slaying of such creatures is regarded as a -crime against the whole of the tribe. The spirits of dead ancestors, -relatives, and chiefs are supposed to reside in such birds and animals. -The principal bird of local reverence is the _Harahurusei_ (Bird of -God), which is the _chapungo_, a large and beautiful bird, quite black -except its tail, which is red. The peculiarity of this bird is that -it soars overhead exactly as does a bird of prey. The natives assert -that the nest, eggs, or feathers of this bird have never been found -by anyone, nor do they know on what food it lives. A native will not -proceed on a journey if the chapungo appears in the air or settles on -the ground in front of him, but will at once return home. Natives hail -the bird and ask it for favours. - -The local natives will not eat the following: Common grey hawk, black -crow, owl, wolf, crocodile, snake, or wild dog. Some will not eat hippo -or eland flesh. They will not kill the chapungo, owl, wild dog, heron, -and certain small birds. But while these are the general practices of -local Makalanga tribes, certain families in different tribes frequently -have additional and special objects of veneration, and any one native -may have some particular object for his own personal veneration. The -tribal custom with regard to not partaking of the flesh of certain -birds and animals is very strictly adhered to, even though natives -starve. To touch such, living or dead, is a defilement, and the remains -can only be moved by using sticks. - -Of insects, they eat locusts, two kinds of cricket (_mashu_ and -_zukumge_), a caterpillar (_masonya_), a worm called _mambene_, and -different kinds of ants, including _shua_ and _madjuro_, but especially -flying-ants. All these insects they consider dainties, and cook them in -the soup-pot into which they dip each handful of _rapoka_ porridge. The -soup is made of fat, ground monkey-nuts, and many other ingredients. - -The natives are known to draw certain star-pictures in the sky; for -instance, Orion is made out to be “two pigs and a dog.” The three stars -in the Belt form one of the principal subjects of children’s songs. -They, of course, know the Morning and Evening Star, while the Pleiades -in their rising and setting mark the sowing and reaping seasons. -They evidently only see six stars in the latter, as they call them -_Tshimtanatu_, which means anything containing six. - -They believe the sun returns across the sky at night when everyone is -sleeping, and that it travels from west to east ready to start over -again at daybreak, but high up in the expanse of the heavens and hidden -from sight by unseen clouds. They ridicule the idea of the earth being -round. - -Eclipses of the sun or moon foretell war or some other great calamity. -They most usually say of them that the sun or moon is “rotten,” -frequently that they are “sick.” - -They generally believe that each moon dies, and that every new moon -is _new_ in the strict sense of the word. Some, however, think that -it does not die altogether, but leaves a seed or germ, which in turn -grows big and then small until only the seed is left. The rising and -setting of the Pleiades, the new and full moon, are occasions of great -rejoicings, dancing, and beer-drinking. - -Sacrifices are still made by local natives. Formerly a large number -of black oxen were killed at one sacrifice, but since the scourge of -rinderpest visited Rhodesia goats have been substituted. The last -sacrifice at Zimbabwe took place in February, 1904. The local natives -sacrificed in the Elliptical Temple, but they have no settled point -within the temple where they hold these ceremonies. The sacrifice was -conducted during the prolonged drought then prevailing. The natives -kept the ceremony private until after it was over, and the rain had -arrived. - -Makalanga of several tribes from near and far used to come to the -Elliptical Temple for sacrifices, and these were offered up within the -walls, but at different spots inside; while on several occasions the -ceremony took place just outside the walls. Once every village had -its own ceremony, and these took place in January, black bulls being -offered for males and black cows for females. - -The sacrifices now made are to the spirits of departed chiefs, and are -offered on the suggestion of witch-doctors, who receive fees for their -advice, and who, to make money, declare that the spirit of some dead -chief or relative is angry and must be appeased. Some portion of the -meat was taken to the spot supposed to be haunted by the spirit, and -the rest is eaten by those present, the bones being sometimes burnt or -thrown into a river; but recently they have been left about the spot. -Sacrifices were usually offered to secure success in any venture to be -undertaken, or to obtain good harvests. Till recently they practised a -similar rite to that known in Mosaic times, and in this instance also -the animal was not killed, but was led out on to the veld and purposely -lost. If found it was not killed. The natives are aware that this rite -was once observed by their people, but state it is not practised now. - -The Makalanga undoubtedly believe in the immortality of the soul, but -they have very vague ideas as to a future life beyond a thorough faith -in the transmigration of souls. They do not conceive the existence of -a Creator or Supreme Being, their highest conception being _M’uali_, a -spirit, who can make their crops a failure and their herds sick, and -to this spirit they offer sacrifices. The _M’uali_, judging by native -account, is not in any way an ennobling spirit, and they are constantly -in dread of him. The witch-doctors in order to acquire wealth for -themselves interpret the wishes of the _M’uali_ in the light of their -own purposes and interests. - -With regard to burials the customs, even among the Makalanga, vary -considerably. In some instances the bodies are laid lengthwise and on -the left side facing the north. This seems to have been the original -custom of these people, but it is not now a general one. Burial in -a sitting position is very commonly met with. On the Acropolis, -during the preservation work (1902–3), about fifty Makalanga graves -were found, and the remains in a score of instances were removed. -Practically all were in a sitting position, only three having been -buried lengthways. These were discovered in entrances and passages, the -bodies having been laid on the surface, soil and stones, taken from the -nearest wall, placed round and over them. None of these were very old, -and most were Mogabe’s people. Their bark hunting-nets, assegais, pots, -and other personal belongings, were placed on the top of the grave, and -not inside with the corpse. - -The Baduma, who live in Gutu’s country, and also the Barotse, still -embalm or, rather, dry the bodies of their chiefs, and also the dead -of certain families, though generally the bodies are buried lengthways -on their right side, facing the sun. The body is placed in the hut -on a bier made of poles near a large fire, and continually turned, -any blisters which may appear being carefully broken, until the body -is dry. Then it is wrapped up in a blanket and hung from the roof. -Annual sacrifices are made to the spirits, and the bodies are regularly -visited and kept in order by a person appointed for that work. The -rain-makers, who live on the Sabi, also dry their dead. - -The manufactures of the Makalanga are fast declining. In very rare -instances may be found villages where bark and cotton are still woven. -Limbo from the stores is so cheap and attractive looking that it has -practically driven out the local article, and the clay whorls used in -spinning cotton are now discarded. Their once famous iron and copper -smelting industries almost disappeared on the advent of cheap and -substantial tools. At one time every village had its blacksmith and -its furnaces and forges, but during the last few years iron-working -has become far less general. Derembghe, near Mr. Nolan’s farm, in the -Victoria district, is the only representative of the old industry. -Pottery is still made, but at Chikwanda, near Arowi and east of -Zimbabwe, the people make pottery of a superior quality. This is also -the case at Mazuwa’s, in Nini district. - -The people are essentially a race of agriculturists and cattle -breeders, and dislike working in mines. Though they are most -industrious in their own plantations, yet they will not work for a -white man for more than a month or two in a year, preferring to spend -the rest of the year in absolute idleness. Many are adepts in brass or -copper wire-work, with which they adorn their sticks and weapons. They -are also very skilful in wood-carving, basket-making, and in tanning -and preparing skins. - -The Makalanga of this district are certainly above the average -type of natives in the possession of both intellectual and physical -qualifications. Light skins, Semitic noses, fine features, with an -absence of high cheek-bones, small, well-shaped hands—are frequent -features met with among them. The men, who wear but insignificant -aprons, are well proportioned, are as straight as an arrow, and have -athletic figures. Large turquoise-blue beads of glass form the neck -ornament of men, women, and children in this district, and these -contrast effectively with the colour and polish of their skins. Both -men and women frequently wear a narrow band of pink and white beads -round their heads. Brass bangles are worn on wrists, arms, legs, and -ankles, the women and girls wearing these in great profusion. - -Women are bare to the low hips, and wear a short skin skirt reaching -almost to the knees. This is most generally adorned with chevron -pattern of pink and white beads. Their stomachs are covered with two -sets of lines worked into the flesh, one set under each breast. This -pattern is very general here, and is identical with the “breast and -furrow” pattern found not only on the fronts of the clay furnaces, -pillows, drums, and granaries, but on the ancient relics and sacred -emblems (phalli) discovered in the ruins. Bent and other writers -believe that these flesh-markings are a survival of the occult idea -of Fertility. There are generally about thirty rows of these lines or -cicatrices, and their regularity is most surprising. - -The men are practically bare-skinned, and have their waists, shoulders, -and sometimes each side of their foreheads, marked with a row of bars -in threes, thus: /|\ /|\, and these closely resemble the sign of Light -as seen in the Welsh bardic symbol. These, many natives state, are luck -signs, and they would not be without them, for with them on their skin -they believe they shall always be healthy and strong and have many -wives and children. Other natives state that the flesh-markings on the -men’s bodies are but ornaments to attract the attentions of women, -while others assert they only bear the marks because it is a custom. -Each male has a forelock, some of these being erect and others pendent, -the latter being usually threaded with pink and white beads. These -often reach below the eyes. They are very proud of their forelocks, and -will spend most of their spare time in trying to pull them out longer. - -[Illustration: MAKALANGA WOMEN AND GIRLS AT THE MOGABE’S KRAAL, -ZIMBABWE] - -Witchcraft still possesses a tremendous influence over the native mind, -although the practice of it is punished by imprisonment, but it is most -difficult to obtain evidences in most cases of offence. Before the -country was occupied by the British the witch-doctors practically ruled -the people, and their influence in many known instances was greater -than that of dynastic chiefs. The inclination of the people is to -revert to the old practices, and fear of punishment alone prevents them -doing so. There is no doubt that some of the infanticides and murders -happening to-day are the results of witch-doctors’ machinations. - -Though every native appears to have a good idea of medicine and of -the uses of certain herbs and roots, and to be able to cure simple -complaints, yet the remedies for more serious matters are in the -hands of the medicine-men, who keep all such knowledge to their own -profession. - -A rain-maker for a large present would, until recently, kill a child of -one of his many wives, and as long as the mother mourned for her child -the rain was supposed to continue. - -The Makalanga undoubtedly possess a keener appreciation of music -and singing than many of the other native races in this part of the -continent. When at work, digging, hoeing, or threshing, they sing -continually, and in one morning they will spontaneously render fully a -dozen different songs and a large number of extempore recitatives and -choruses interspersed, also a few part-songs and catches. They sing -going to and returning from labour, and always sing at their work, and -when they cease singing one may be certain they are idling. There is -far greater harmony and variety of music produced from their pianos, -and their songs are brighter and more spirited, than any music or song -a Matabele can evolve, and the dreary monotonous chant of the latter -is almost entirely absent. The subjects of their songs are numerous, -and comprise many items which only a people who live face to face -with Nature could sing without offending the decencies as regarded by -civilised people, and in these songs the smallest child most lustily -joins. They will sing impromptu songs having reference to the tools -they happen to be using, or to anything they may chance to see. The -Native Commissioner is a great subject of their songs. They have -war-songs, lullabies, songs to the bride, to the child just able to -walk, to the new moon, to the butter they are making, besides a number -of children’s songs. - -They also have a large number of proverbs which somewhat resemble those -employed at Home, thus:— - - _Translation._ _English Equivalent._ - - “The grass which is in the belly “A bird in the hand is worth - of the wild ox is his own; that two in the bush.” - which is in his mouth he might - die with.” - - “Difficulty makes a plan.” “Necessity is the mother of - invention.” - - “Water spilt cannot be gathered “No use crying over spilt milk.” - again.” - - “He is strong at the dish”; “He is a good trencherman.” - said of one who does not work, - but knows well how to eat. - - “Comes out with holes in his “Escaped by the skin of his - skins (garments).” teeth.” - - “A tame dog is the one that “Do not trust one who looks - eats at the skins.” very innocent.” - - “Who has thrown out my basket “Who has meddled with my - of seed?” affairs?” - - “The short hare cannot eat the “Don’t attempt things too high - tall grass.” for you.” - -The natives can make fire (_sika_) very easily. The woods usually -selected for this purpose are _Zumbani_ and _Bg̊ebg̊a_. One piece is -rounded, and the lower point is inserted in a small hole in the other -wood, and then twirled with the palms of the hands round rapidly till -sparks are emitted, and then very dry grass is placed at the bottom -of the rounded stick, when it will light. Should the wood be slightly -damp, a very small pinch of sand is placed in the hole to increase the -friction. The _sika_ sticks can obtain fire almost as quickly as can a -magnifying glass. - -On felling a tree in clearing a plantation it is a general custom in -this district for the native to make a small ring of grass and lay it -on the tree stump, and then to spit on the ring and to cover it with a -large stone. Natives state, in explanation of this practice, that their -people have always done it, but they cannot say for what purpose. - -The pottery whorls found in very old native huts are known to many -natives, but not to all, for the author has heard natives explaining -their purpose to other natives. These whorls had sticks inserted -top-fashion through the centre hole, and were spun rapidly between the -hands. These were used for drawing the threads from the mass of cotton, -also, some say, in producing fire. The children find them and use them -for tops. The whorls which are found in ruins, and which are doubtless -antique, are made of soapstone and are excellently finished. - -The natives decorate the wooden doors of their huts, also the interior -walls—check pattern being general for this purpose. The best decoration -of doors is to be found in Gutu’s and Chibi’s districts. - -The native name for Victoria is _Duruben_, or _Durubeni_, sometimes -_Vitori_. _Duruben_ is derived from the Dutch word _dorp_, and _Vitori_ -is an attempt to pronounce Victoria. _Campeni_ is the name of the old -township of Victoria, which used to be known as The Camp. Several -isolated settlements of white people towards the south are called by -the natives of those districts _Durubeni_, the termination being that -of the locative case. The hillock in Victoria, near the gaol, used to -be called “_Gòna Zhon_” (“They failed to capture the elephant”). The -open veld about Victoria was called “_Bani ro moteio_” (“The plain -without trees”). - -The salutation _Moro!_ or _Morra!_ employed by the natives is simply -a corruption of the Dutch word _Morgen!_ _i.e._ Good Morning! In Cape -Dutch _Morrè!_ is used, and from this the word _Morro!_ was evidently -derived. The natives agree in stating that it is a Dutch word brought -into the country by Dutch hunters and Cape Boys long before the -British arrived. They ridicule all idea of its being of native origin, -and state that in some districts it is not used. The practice of -handshaking on meeting is one which the natives state has been copied -from the white men. - -The salute on meeting is by clapping hands. On greeting a man they will -clap the palms with the hands slightly crossed, the forefinger of the -right hand crossing the base of the forefinger of the other; but on -saluting a woman the forefinger is placed to forefinger with wrists -together. The length of time of clapping depends on the position of the -person saluted. On joining a group to talk, eat, or drink the new-comer -claps hands before sitting down and again when the food or drink is -offered him. - -Among the Jewish customs of the Makalanga the following may be -noticed. (1) Monotheism and no worship of idols; (2) worship of, and -sacrifices to, ancestors—a practice condemned by the Prophets; (3) -rite of circumcision; (4) despising the uncircumcised: the taunt -of non-circumcision is commonly employed between disputants; (5) -purification and shaving of the head; (6) transferring impurity or -infection from individuals to some animal, which in some instances -is slain and in others purposely lost on the veld; (7) reception by -women of parties returning from hunting or war, as in the case of -Jephthah; (8) feasts of new moons and invocations to new moons; (9) -feasts of full moons; (10) offerings of first fruits; (11) defilement -by touching the dead; (12) defilement of eating flesh containing blood; -(13) abhorrence of swine as unclean; (14) sprinkling the worshippers -with blood; (15) places of refuge for criminals or people believed -but not found guilty of offending tribal custom;[30] (16) observance -of Sabbath, either every five or seven days; (17) marriage only among -themselves, but cannot marry into the same tribe; (18) casting of lots; -(19) sacrifices of oxen in times of trouble, such as drought; (20) -practice of espousal before marriage; (21) brother succeeds to brother -in office and property; (22) brother takes to wife the wives of his -deceased elder brother, and raising offspring, they rank in office as -if they were the children of the deceased; (23) a daughter does not -inherit property or position except on the death of all her brothers; -(24) rigid morality with regard to all fleshly sins, adultery and -fornication being punished with death and outlawry. - -Additional parallelisms with Jewish customs could be stated, and all -these peculiar practices, together with the lighter skin and the Jewish -appearance of the Makalanga, distinctly point to the ancient impress of -the Idumean Jews, which can also be traced on the present peoples of -Madagascar and of the coasts of Mozambique and Sofala.[31] - -Many of these customs are now falling into desuetude on the advance of -white civilisation. The Molembo tribe of Makalanga is noted for the -preservation and observance of the majority of these Jewish practices, -which are in character distinctly pre-Koranic in origin. - - - - - CHAPTER VI - - RELICS AND “FINDS” AT GREAT ZIMBABWE, 1902–4 WITH DESCRIPTIONS, - LOCATIONS, AND ASSOCIATIONS[32] - - - 1. SOAPSTONE ARTICLES - -Sir John Lubbock once observed that one antiquarian relic found by -itself was no testimony as to any particular ancient occupation of -the spot at which it was discovered, but that the discovery of many -identical relics in one place, and under identical conditions, might be -considered as evidence of such occupation. Single specimens are known -to have been transported from one hemisphere to another during the -course of three or four thousand years. - -At Great Zimbabwe it is not, except in a few instances, with single -relics that we have to deal, but with those found in tens and scores, -practically in identical and corresponding locations, and under -exactly similar conditions. So regularly are these relics situated on -certain floors that, with a few exceptions explained later, one is -always certain as to the class of relics which will be met with on any -particular floor which is being cleared. Of course, these relics and -“finds” are not distributed generally on their respective floors, and -frequently the realisation of one’s hopes of meeting with them were -greatly deferred, while on other occasions half an hour’s work yielded -them in quantities. Still, when once found, they were generally -abundant—at least, on those floors that were expected to yield them. - -[Illustration: SOAPSTONE BEAMS WITH BIRDS, ZIMBABWE - -_South African Museum, Cape Town_] - -A small quantity of articles having claim to some antiquity were found -out of relative position to the bulk of similar relics. For instance, -phalli, which were found in quantities on certain floors in the eastern -half only of the Elliptical Temple, also at the Eastern and Western -Temples on the hill, and at Philips Ruins in the Valley of Ruins, have, -in some few instances, been found singly, but most frequently fractured -or damaged, in positions which could not have been those occupied by -any of the ancient inhabitants. Single specimens are sometimes found in -the débris piles immediately outside the entrances to the three temples -and Philips Ruins. Those found lower in such piles were no doubt thrown -out by old native peoples who would not be aware of their purpose. Some -of these have been converted into amulets or charms, while others are -known to have been used for making _daha_ (hemp) pipe-bowls. Those -phalli found in the higher portions of such débris piles are shown -by the stratification of the débris to have been brought out by the -numerous relic hunters by whom the excavated soil from the interiors -was deposited on these débris heaps outside. This experience extends -also to almost all the more antique relics found at Zimbabwe. - -[Illustration: Section of Floors of part of N^o 15 ENCLOSURE Elliptical -Temple looking North-West & shewing locations of “Finds” 11902–31.] - -The _phalli_ found at Zimbabwe must now amount to at least one hundred, -of which more than half have been found recently. It is very probable -that on further examination of the lower floors of these four ruins -other specimens will be met with. The phalli found vary in size and -design. The largest (Pl. I., fig. 6) stood 7½ in. high, was perfectly -plain, but highly polished. The smallest were seven-eighths of an -inch long, but each had its base bevelled and a ring carved round the -summit. Except where the base is fractured, all stand erect on any -tolerably flat surface. The bases show signs of extensive scratchings, -as if they had been constantly moved. The average heights of the -phalli are from two to four inches. Round the bases of many of the -recently discovered phalli are small bevels, sometimes in two circles. -The majority were unadorned, but their identity was unmistakable. The -more ornate specimens bore the “female breast and furrow” pattern, -one had chevron pattern round its bevelled base, several showed the -circumcisional markings, and on the top of one (Pl. I., figs. 12 and -13) were carved in relief rosettes formed of a circle completely -surrounded by eight small circles, the latter a pattern which is -frequently found on soapstone beams and bowls, and is also used to form -the eyes of one of the soapstone birds found at Zimbabwe. - -Worked and decorated _soapstone beams_ have been found only in four -localities within the ruins’ area, viz. (1) the Elliptical Temple, on -the summit and at the bases of the main east and south-east wall -within the limits of the chevron pattern; (2) also in quantities on -the summit and at the base of the circular granite cement platform -which lies to the north of the Conical Tower; (3) on the summit and -at the bases of the north wall of the Western Temple on the hill; (4) -on the summit and at the bases of the arc wall of the Eastern Temple, -decorated with dentelle pattern and facing east; (5) on or near the two -granite cement platforms in the interior, and on the site of Mr. Bent’s -“altar,” also in the same temple; and (6) on the summit and at the -bases of the arc wall facing east at Philips Ruins, the fragments of -beams found at this latter place being exceedingly numerous. Splinters -of soapstone beams are found in the soil in the larger ruins, showing -that some of the beams fell from their position and became fractured -after the filling in with soil which took place at least one hundred -and fifty years ago. Few, if any, worked soapstone beams were found in -any of the Valley Ruins, save at Philips. All beams have been worked, -and the marks of the tools and their sizes can still be seen on many; -some are also carved, the chevron pattern predominating. - -[Illustration: _PLATE I._ “Relics & Finds” Great Zimbabwe 1902–3 - -Methuen & C^o] - -A portion of a soapstone beam, 2 ft. 6 in. long and 1 ft. 5 in. in -circumference, formed part of what is known to have been a very tall -and slender pillar, which was once surmounted by a bird. This stood on -the north wall of the Western Temple on the Acropolis, and was found -in 1902. The beam is completely covered with most delicately carved -chevron pattern. - -A carved soapstone beam, 11 ft. high, which showed signs of once being -taller, stood on the platform of the Western Temple on the Acropolis. -It fell about 1890, and broke into two parts, and these Mr. Bent -removed. - -A section of a soapstone beam (Pl. I., fig. 3), carved into rounds -resembling a chain of connected balls and decorated with spiral lines, -was found in No. 15 Enclosure of the Elliptical Temple, on the lowest -floor and 2 ft. below the foundation of the north-east wall of that -enclosure. - -A curiously carved piece of soapstone (Pl. I., fig. 2), evidently a -portion of a beam, was found close to the circular platform in the -Platform Area at the Elliptical Temple, among the numerous soapstone -beams found at some depth at that spot. The fragment has so broken that -it resembles a slipper with a band across the instep. The whole face of -it is covered with small raised circular knobs. - -Eight carved _soapstone birds_ and _birds on beams_[33] are known to -have been removed from the ruins prior to 1902, and they were mostly -found on the Acropolis. Two, it is known, were taken to Johannesburg -in 1890, and about the same time the lower portion of a bird (of which -the upper portion was found by the author in 1902) was removed and sold -to Mr. Rhodes. In 1891 Mr. Bent removed four birds on beams and also -the lower portion of another bird, but he did not discover any of them, -as the position of all these was well known to settlers both before -the occupation and previously to this visit, many attempts having been -made to buy these relics from the Mogabe Chipfuno, who persistently -refused to part with them. These four birds on beams and another beam -on which had once been a bird were standing more or less erect and -fixed in granite cement on the Eastern Temple on the Acropolis, which -for years previously had been used as a cattle kraal, and the holes and -places in which they once stood, and from which Mr. Bent removed them, -can be seen to-day. But on the authority of very early visitors, and -of the Mogabe Handisibishe, there are still two birds unaccounted for. -Possibly the mention of this fact may lead to their recovery. There -is a general belief that one of these birds is in a certain museum in -Austria, and this is quite possible, seeing that at least two Austrian -scientists have visited this country. The total number of birds -known to have been found at Zimbabwe prior to 1902 was eight. - -[Illustration: FRONT, SIDE AND BACK VIEWS OF SOAPSTONE BIRD, ZIMBABWE] - -In 1902–3 the author unearthed the upper portion of the fractured bird -(Pl. I., fig. 1), the lower portion of which was found on the Acropolis -in 1890, together with a section of the beam upon which it once stood. -The head, neck, and shoulders of this bird are 9½ in. long. Up the -neck, front, and back is a carved protruding rib. This portion of the -bird is in an extremely good state of preservation, and the carving -shows more artistic skill than do any of the birds on beams in the Cape -Town Museum. - -In 1903 the author discovered the tenth carved soapstone bird on -beam. This was found in Philips Ruins, the most interesting buildings -outside the Acropolis and Elliptical Temple. The bird and beam, which -are still intact, were found on the east side of a high and massive -wall and at the south side of a small conical tower in the North-East -Enclosure of these ruins, being buried in soil and block débris to a -depth of 3 ft. It was upside down, with the base resting against the -side of the cone, from the summit of which it most probably had fallen, -as the cone, which is approached by two steps and a platform on its -east side, was covered with granite cement, while the base of the beam -bears marks of its having once stood embedded in granite cement. All -the birds at Zimbabwe found standing, with one exception, had the bases -of the beams fixed in excellent granite cement. This bird and beam are -undoubtedly not only in the best state of preservation of any yet found -at Zimbabwe, but show evidence of more artistic workmanship having been -bestowed upon them than any of those previously discovered. Up the face -of the beam is carved a crocodile 16 in. long, and round the _cestus_ -beneath the bird’s feet, which is 3 in. deep, is carved work—on one -side a large double row of chevron pattern, similar to the pattern -on the east wall of the Elliptical Temple, and on the opposite side -a single row of chevron, surmounted by two large embossed circular -discs; the back edge of the beam is plain, and the front edge above the -crocodile has two small embossed circular discs. The bird stands 11 -in. high, the total height of the beam and bird being 5 ft. 5 in., its -width 8 in. on the flat sides, and 2½ in. on its end edges. - -_Miniature soapstone birds_ on pedestals have been found by other -explorers of Zimbabwe, but the writer discovered only a portion of one -of such birds. - -In Mr. Bent’s work are given the opinions of several of the best-known -scientists of Europe, who, by means of the birds and associated relics -found at Zimbabwe, connect the worship carried on there with that of -the ancient Sabæan people of South Arabia, who worshipped the goddess -Almaquah (Venus), the Morning Star. See Preface, also pages 181–87 of -_The Ruined Cities of Mashonaland_. - -The best-made _soapstone bowls_ are found on the lower granite cement -floors of the ruins and far below any native clay floors, the southern -side of the Acropolis, the eastern half of the Elliptical Temple, and -Philips Ruins yielding these in quantities. The fragments of bowls -with carved processions of horned animals, of which a dozen pieces -have recently been discovered, and which fragments represent different -sized bowls, were found only on the lowest floors, and these only on -the Acropolis. This was also the experience of Mr. Bent. But there is -an exception to this rule, viz. that the ancients, or some people of -a period prior to the Makalanga, had, on the bowls becoming broken, -thrown the fragments over the west and south edges of the Acropolis -Hill, where fragments may still be found among and under the wall -débris which has fallen down the precipitous sides of the hill. -Probably before these fragments became, at a later date, completely -covered by further falls of wall débris, native people of a remote age -converted some of these into slabs for the _isafuba_ game, and cut the -sets of game-holes on their flat bases and on the inside of the higher -rims, while they have also rudely scratched the usual native designs -on the opposite side to the carving—crude designs which are obviously -in striking contrast to the artistic work of the original makers of the -bowl. Such portions, and but a few only, have been found on very old -native clay floors on the Acropolis. - -[Illustration: FRONT AND SIDE VIEWS OF SOAPSTONE BIRD ON BEAM, -DISCOVERED BY AUTHOR AT PHILIPS’ RUINS, ZIMBABWE, IN 1893] - -The fragments of the soapstone bowls recently found vary in style, -size, and carving, and these fragments represent at least thirty -different bowls. Mr. Bent also found fragments representing some ten -different bowls, and as there still remain large areas of lower floors -to be opened out, there may be still further evidences of even more -extensive use of these articles by the ancients of all periods at -Zimbabwe. The diameters, judged by the radii of the segments, vary -from 1 ft. 1½ in., which is the smallest size yet found, to 1 ft. 3¾ -in., the largest so far discovered. The heights of the outside of the -rims range from 2 in. to 3½ in., the majority being about 2¾ in. The -rims, which are all without flange, except in one instance, are from -1⅛ in. to 1⅝ in. in thickness. The bases of the bowls have about the -same average thickness, but in a few cases they are somewhat thinner. -The insides of the bowls from rim to rim are always beautifully flat -and smooth. The bottoms are thickly covered with fine scratches, as if -the bowls had been constantly pushed along the top of stone or fine -cement work. The insides of some of the bowls show signs of having been -subjected to very great heat previously to the breaking of the article. -It may well be imagined that bowls of these dimensions, cut out of -solid soapstone, itself an exceedingly heavy stone, must have been of -great weight, and that without considering any contents they might have -held. - -A few bowls only were plain—that is, with no decorative pattern on the -outside—though all are finely worked, and the plainest has rounded -sides which slightly project at the top of the rim. The designs on the -relics vary, and include procession of horned animals (Pl. I., fig. -4), zebras, dogs, a bird, and a man. The decorations on the majority -of the bowls comprise (1) herring-bone, plain; (2) herring-bone on -cords, _i.e._ two parallel cords with their respective lines of strands -inclining opposite ways, and thus together forming a herring-bone -pattern; (3) cord pattern, the strands of the parallel cords both -inclining in the same direction. These cords in (2) and (3) are found -both vertically and horizontally. In the case of cord pattern of any -sort the cords are carved in lengths, the lengths being divided by -plain protruding squares at intervals; (4) circular discs sunk into -the surface, the discs being either plain or covered with rings within -rings till the centre is reached; (5) a chain of diamond-shaped panels -with centres completely filled up with lines parallel to the outer -lines. - -A pattern (6) (Pl. I., fig. 5), new in Zimbabwe relics, was recently -found on the rim of a soapstone bowl discovered in Maund Ruins in -the Valley of Ruins. This consists of two wave bands crossing and -recrossing each other throughout their length, and thus making a -continuous line of perfect circles. This is very correctly carved, and -the artistic merit of its workmanship is equal, if not superior, to -that of any soapstone relic yet found at Zimbabwe.[34] - -Among other soapstone “finds” made recently at these ruins are two -fragments of two _double claw-hammer-shaped ingot moulds_ (Pl. I., -figs. 7 and 8), each fragment being the major portion of such mould. -These were cut into the broken section of an ornamented beam. Moulds of -this shape are not, therefore, necessarily ancient, though the form may -have been handed down from ancient times. Mr. Selous, some years ago, -discovered considerable quantities of copper ingot moulds in actual use -by the natives of Katanga, and these were almost the identical shape of -the ingot mould discovered by Mr. Bent at Zimbabwe. The Administrator -of North-Eastern Rhodesia reported in March, 1900, that ingots of -copper in the form of a St. Andrew’s Cross were common articles of -trade in the Katanga district. It must also be recollected that three -such ingots have been found in Southern Rhodesia. Though old, their -appearance does not in any instance suggest antiquity. The author, -taking these points into consideration, does not believe that the ingot -mould discovered by Mr. Bent can be any evidence of the occupation of -this country by the Phœnicians, and this opinion is further confirmed -by the locations of the moulds found. (See _The Ancient Ruins of -Rhodesia_, pages 128 and 141; also Appendix thereto, Note C.) - -A straight _bar mould_ (Pl. I., fig. 9) which shows signs of -considerable use has also been found, but on an upper clay floor. It -is believed that this was used for moulding copper bars. The natives -of Kafue, the Molembo people of modern times, and the local Barotse, -all these being races of skilful copper workers, are known to have made -identically shaped copper bars. - -Other soapstone articles include a _ball_, a few _whorls_, _amulets_, -and _daha pipe-bowls_, the latter being of Makalanga make, while it -would be extremely difficult to say to which period the other articles -belonged. - - - 2. GOLD ARTICLES[35] - -_Gold_ in almost every form has been found in quantities on several -of the lower floors of the ruins, and from its locations must have -been produced and worked, not only by ancients, but by very old Kafir -people, possibly under Moslem Arab supervision, for concave fragments -of Kafir pottery of a very far back period (and so pronounced by -Dr. Hahn and other experts) have been used as crude _scorifiers_, -and the gold can still be seen on them in the flux, while other -undoubted Kafir remains, some of which are claimed to be Makalanga of -an exceedingly old make, are found associated with the scorifiers. -The mediæval Makalanga, as early Portuguese records show, not only -produced gold but manufactured it, especially into gold wire. It may be -conjectured that this style of metal work was due to Arab influence, -for the earliest Portuguese records frequently testify that the Arabs -possessed important colonies in the country of the Monomotapa, colonies -sufficiently influential to mould the policy of successive Monomotapas, -especially as against the incursion of Portuguese, and that the main -purpose of the Arab intruders in the country was to obtain gold -and ivory. Until the last decade, when the cheap and ready-made -European goods became obtainable by the natives, the Makalanga can be -conclusively shown to have been a nation of metal smiths capable of -producing most excellent work, and of drawing very fine wire, while -to-day their art of making wire bangles and covering articles with work -in correct patterns is such that the difference between the quality of -the native work and that produced by machinery in Europe can hardly be -detected. It must be remembered, too, that previously to, and for some -time after, the occupation, it was possible to buy gold beads from the -natives in Mashonaland. These might to a large extent have been found -in ancient ruins, but the majority of such articles so bartered for -from the natives consisted of Kafir-made copper and iron bangles with -gold beads at intervals round the circle. - -Gold and gold articles of the more delicate and artistic manufacture -belong mainly to the period of the ancients, but gold, as shown by -tradition, history, and “finds,” was also a product of mediæval -Makalanga, as can be further demonstrated by any excavator of very old -Makalanga floors, and of this the proofs exist abundantly. - -The small _gold crucibles_ of granite clay similar to those described -on page 221 of Mr. Bent’s work, and found on the lowest floors and in -rock holes and fissures used for depositing débris, where they must -have been thrown away as rubbish after the small cakes of gold had been -removed, although they still contained in the flux large beady pieces -of gold. A large number of these have been found in positions where the -Kafir clay scorifiers are not met with. It would be well in considering -the “finds” of crucibles not to treat them with the pottery gold -scorifiers, for, so far as discoveries lead, they undoubtedly appear to -belong to entirely different ages. - -Several sizes of _gold beads_ have been found. There is no doubt that -some places in certain enclosures of the older ruins will yield a fair -quantity when the soil on the lower floors is systematically treated. -Several beads are perfectly round, others are round but with flat ends, -others again show two facets encircling them and meeting at the widest -point. - -_Beaten gold_ to the amount of about 6 ozs. was found on the lower -floors. This was discovered in the form of plates usually about 1½ -in. to 2 in. by 1 in., each plate having small holes round the edges, -in many of which holes the gold tacks still remained. One piece was -wider at one end than at the other, and this is believed to have been a -sheathing encircling a section of a piece of ebony found with it, the -ebony stick being thick at the top and tapered towards the end. There -were remains of embossed designs on two pieces of beaten gold, one of -diamond pattern and the other a plain circle with curved radiating -marks. - -_Gold tacks_ were most usually found with the beaten gold. These are of -microscopic size. The majority have wedged-shaped heads, and the others -flattened heads. It is believed that these tacks served to fasten the -gold sheathing on to wooden articles used by the ancients. - -_Bar-gold_ and _gold-cake_ were found on the lowest floors in the -Elliptical Temple and North-East Passage respectively. _Gold dust_ is -found in certain enclosures only, but on the lowest floors. Over two -hundred pannings of the soil in various enclosures have been made. The -soil of some enclosures is absolutely destitute of any trace of gold, -so also is the veld soil brought into the ruins by native people over -one hundred and fifty years ago. In some places outside the ruins -pannings show gold, and pieces of beaten gold and gold wire have been -found in such places. - -One complete _gold bangle_ of twisted wire, most artistically wrought -and weighing 2½ ozs., was found on the bed-rock in an enclosure on the -Acropolis Hill. Another complete gold bangle was found on the lowest -floor of No. 15 Enclosure of the Elliptical Temple. Short pieces of -twisted gold wire of various gauges have been found at several ruins. -Most of such pieces are parts of broken bangles. - -_Gold scorifiers_ of native pottery were found in quantities on an -intermediate floor in No. 6 Enclosure of the Elliptical Temple, -together with a pair of iron pincers and Arabian glass. The report made -by Dr. P. Daniel Hahn, PH. D., M.A., Professor of Chemistry, South -African Chemical and Metallurgical Laboratory, Cape Town, on these -scorifiers, is as follows:— - - “The several fragments of scorifiers sent for analysis did not - all contain sufficient flux to be removed without being mixed - up with the substance of the scorifier. A fair quantity of flux - could, however, be separated in sufficient purity for analysis. - - “The flux was composed of:— - - Silica 77.616% - Ferrous Oxide .464% - Aluminic Oxide 6.703% - Lime 7.095% - Magnesia 7.421% - Gold .363% - Sodic Oxide .210% - Potassic Oxide .106% - - “No Borate or Fluoride was found in the flux. - - “The composition of this flux is remarkable, inasmuch as the - alkalies are present in very small proportion only, while the - alkaline earths prevail. Also the amount of silica is very - high. - - “The flux melted readily when it was heated on a platinum lid - in a muffle furnace at the temperature required for expelling - auriferous lead.” - -Dr. Hahn has further informed the author that pieces of scorifiers are -fragments of native pottery similar to that found in different parts of -South Africa, and he adds, “They are certainly not European but native -pottery.” - - - 3. COPPER ARTICLES - -Discoveries of copper in several forms are made on intermediate and -higher levels. So far no copper article has been found by any explorer -at Zimbabwe which could be claimed as being ancient, though doubtless -the ancients worked also in copper, and it is quite probable that -copper articles made in pre-Kafir times may yet be found. Such copper -articles as have been found show a decided Kafir form, the copper -battle-axes and barbed spearheads, bangles, beads, and wire-work -closely resembling the iron articles still made by the natives, -though of a somewhat superior design and make, and some of these in -all probability, judging by their location and the associated finds, -covered a period extending from mediæval times until comparatively a -few years ago. The floors and immediate vicinity of native huts of -the oldest construction yield copper articles abundantly, while later -native floors have a larger percentage of iron articles. - -Three pounds’ weight of thin and narrow strips of _copper sheathing_ -with tack-holes round the edges and copper tacks were found on one of -the higher levels, and at a depth of several feet below were granite -cement steps and buttresses of excellent construction. This sheathing -had evidently covered some wooden article. - -The copper used in most instances is pronounced to be pure metal and -free from the usual alloys. The metal in these is of so pliable a -nature that _spearheads_ can be easily twisted by hand into almost any -shape. One spearhead was copper and tin, but the latter was present -in very small proportion. Several articles once thought to be bronze -are now pronounced to be of copper only. A small piece of a bar of -tin was found on an intermediate floor. _Copper wire_, mostly in the -form of bangles, is very plentiful on intermediate floors, also large -_cakes of copper_ and _copper slag_, but so far the actual remains of -copper-smelting furnaces _in situ_ have not been met with at Zimbabwe, -though judging by the amount of copper slag and _copper ore_ found at -the extreme east of the Acropolis ruins, copper-smelting was carried -on in that locality during the period when the gold scorifiers made -of native pottery were being used. Here were found portions of clay -_cupolas_ which had been used for copper-smelting, circular and deep, -about the size of a small teacup. The fine and delicate _copper chain_ -found in Renders Ruins is believed to be of Arab origin, and used to -suspend the lamp-holder found with it. Pieces of a small _copper box_, -and several solidly made _copper bangles_, and _copper finger-rings_ -in snake form with the extremities coiled, were also found in Renders -Ruins on the same level where the copper chain and several articles of -Arab origin were discovered. - - - 4. IRON ARTICLES - -Objects made of iron are found in all floors, but mainly on -intermediate and upper floors. Makalanga iron tools, ornaments, -weapons, and iron slag are found in great profusion on the upper -floors, especially in the black surface mould and among grass and shrub -roots. Modern native-made _iron hoes_ are as a rule without any sign -of bevel to strengthen the blade, but iron hoes with a peculiar bevel -down the centre of the blade on both sides are found among native -articles of a rather superior character and at slightly lower depths. -These latter have a depression stamped down the centre of the blade -which raises a bevel on the opposite face, while on the opposite -side another depression has been stamped parallel with the raised -bevel on that side, thus providing a rib on each face, which greatly -strengthens the hoe. This class of bevel has been pronounced by experts -to be an old form employed also in other parts of the world, and local -authorities on Makalanga iron-work assign this make of hoe to several -generations ago, while the Makalanga themselves state that such hoes -are found in very old deserted villages of their people, but have not -been made during their time, but used to be so made by their fathers’ -fathers. - -[Illustration: PLATE 2. - -Methuen & C^o] - -_Iron chisels_ (Pl. III., figs, 1 and 2) are found on almost all -floors, and were it not for noting the actual spots where they are -found and the associated articles, it would be difficult to state, -so closely do they resemble each other, which of them were antique -and which old or modern native. This difficulty is increased when old -Kafir iron-chisels and picks are found to be greatly corroded, while -some of the iron tools found in positions suggesting a great antiquity -are sometimes found in an almost perfect condition. The sizes of the -various chisels used by the ancients on blocks in the oldest portions -of the ruins, and also on the soapstone beams, are still clearly -distinguishable. - -_Iron picks_ are found on older native floors, and these vary in make -and design, and may be classified as follows:— - -(_a_) Double-pointed picks made of a short, thick piece of iron tapered -at each end, the middle part of which is held by a short iron handle -(Pl. II., fig. 11). These have also been found in old workings in -both Matabeleland and Mashonaland, and especially in the Mazoe and -neighbouring districts. Several of the early writers on this country -state that these picks had been supplied to their native labourers -by the mediæval Portuguese, but it is impossible at present to state -whether this belief be correct or otherwise. Certainly these picks have -been mostly found in districts once occupied by the Portuguese. There -is a character in the design, class of iron used, and the make that -does not suggest a native origin. - -(_b_) An iron pick (Pl. III., fig. 3), similar to the one shown on -page 217 of Mr. Bent’s book, but in a better state of preservation, -was recently found at Zimbabwe. It is almost certain that this class -of pick once had wooden handles up the middle of which was a hole, and -through it passed the iron bar which bound the pick and the handle -firmly together. - -(_c_) The pick (Pl. II., fig. 11) is formed by a bar of iron which is -bent back a few inches from the top, and in the front of the bend is a -hole running up the centre inside the bent-back portion, and into this -hole the haft of the pick is fixed. These have been found complete. - -All three classes of picks are found on intermediate and upper clay -floors, yet the local natives affirm that they have never known them to -be made, though they are aware of their purpose. - -Included in the finds of iron articles was a well-made _iron spoon_ -with a long handle squared at the end. This was found among the Arab -belongings in Renders Ruins, also an _iron spearhead_ (Pl. II., fig. -16) with peculiarly designed spaces in its edges as if for inflicting -a more than usually serious wound. An _ornamented spearhead_ (Pl. II., -fig. 15) with its point decorated with bead-like bevels diminishing in -size from base to point. An _iron lamp-stand_ (PI. II., figs. 17 and -18) with eight bent-up arms (with which was found 12 ft. of fine copper -chain in lengths of about 18 in. with pottery affixed at intervals) was -also found with the Arab articles. - -_Iron bangles_, both solid and of wire-work, are found on upper floors -in the black surface mould and among grass roots. Some of these must -be exceedingly old, and in the wire bangles the fibre or zebra hair -(this, in some instances, being found intact), round which the wire -was twisted, has completely disappeared. In many instances some traces -more or less distinct of the fibre or hair still remained. Twisted -iron wire-work, evidently imported wholesale, has been found at one -spot only, and in great quantities in the form of coils, and not cut up -into lengths for use as bangles. The coils, which are now fused, must -have contained very many feet of this twisted wire. The same applies to -coils of twisted brass wire in large coils found also at the same spot, -which, as is shown later, was evidently an old Arab trading station. - -_Iron nails_ (Pl. II., figs. 2 and 4) are not limited to any particular -floor, and are found almost everywhere in the ruins. But these vary -considerably in make. The oldest form of nail and the best designed -is that found at greatest depth. This is wedge-shape headed. Another -form of exceedingly old class of nails is that where the head is formed -by doubling the nail back for about half an inch. But the head is not -welded, the bottom part of the bent-back portion being slightly tapered -where it meets the side of the nail. These nails in several instances -were made difficult of extraction from the wood by being barbed and -notched, and in some cases, especially of a rivet class of smaller -nails, the nails, when the iron was hot, were twisted in the centre -only, and a rude sort of screw was thus made with protruding edges. -It can be seen that several twisting operations were required to form -these spiral bandings, and that these separate twistings do not connect -together as in a perfect screw. The larger nails are from 4 in. to 6 -in. long, the rivet class varying from 1½ in. to 4 in. - -_Iron shoes and collars_ once having served as bands round wooden -posts, possibly to keep them from splitting, especially in a climate -where there are daily such rapid changes from heat to cold, and which -plays such havoc with the modern imported timber. These bands, which -average almost an inch in width, generally passed twice round the post, -and the shapes of the circumference of the post are square, oblong -(these are the most frequent), or circular, but always perfectly -exact, showing that the ancients and older inhabitants of the ruins -used wood that had been specially shaped with tools, and not the rough, -unworked poles used by old and present natives, many of which can be -still seen never to have been touched with any tool save in cutting -it from the tree and in lopping off small branches. These shoes and -collars are found on very old floors, their greatest length or diameter -being 4¾ in. - -One important fact is clearly demonstrated by the presence in -quantities on the older floors of nails and shoes, and it is that the -original builders and their more immediate successors extensively -employed woodwork in the fittings of all the enclosures, some of it -being of large dimensions, and in all probability worked with tools, -and not used in the rough state. The general distribution of these -nails and shoes throughout the enclosures, and at some depth, convinces -one that substantial wooden fittings once existed in these enclosures, -for the large sizes of the older forms of nails and the make of the -shoes and collars preclude any suggestion of many of them having been -used in woodwork which could have been easily removed. - -A _forked iron instrument_ (Pl. II., fig. 5), with six gold bosses -riveted with gold on to the iron, is certainly of a very antique -character, though possibly not an article belonging to the original -builders, for the condition of the iron and its location, while -pointing to some antiquity, rather precludes any idea of its being -of the earliest date. This was found in the Western Temple at the -Acropolis ruins, at a point near, but not so deep as, the spot which -Mr. Swan styles “the centre of the arc of the curved and decorated main -wall of the Western Temple on the hill.” - -The _iron pincers_ (Pl. II., fig. 2), found with the gold scorifiers -on an intermediate floor in the Elliptical Temple, are of simple -construction, and are made of a bar of iron tapered at each end and -doubled together, the doubled end being hammered close, but not -welded. Traces of flux are on the tapered points. A second pair of iron -pincers, but not in such good condition, were found on an intermediate -floor in the Acropolis ruins. - -Some six pairs of _double iron gongs_ were also recently found, but not -in any position or associated with articles suggesting antiquity. These -were found on old Makalanga floors, also among grass roots and in black -surface mould. Yet the type and pattern of gong is undoubtedly ancient, -being found in Egypt and seen in the ancient paintings in that country, -but like the rod of iron, the pillow, the ingot mould, and a score of -other articles used not only by Makalanga but by other peoples of this -continent, the form and make of these gongs have been handed down from -time immemorial. The local natives know the use of these gongs, and -say that they were beaten with an iron striker (Pl. II., fig. 20), but -they have not seen any at Zimbabwe since they arrived seventy years -ago, nor can they say that their own people ever made them, but they -suppose that the old Makalanga, who, up to at least one hundred years -ago, are known to have lived in the Zimbabwe ruins, made and used them. -These gongs are known to local natives who have travelled, and these -say they have seen them in use in the Zambesia districts, where they -are used to greet the arrival of chiefs and the appearance of the new -moon, also as a signal of warning. The two gongs are bound together -by an iron band, which forms the handle. One pair was found on the -floor of a hut built on block foundations with the usual clay-rounded, -bevelled, and circular base, exactly similar to those on the filled-in -plateau of No. 1 Ruins at Khami (see Chapter VII., section “Native -Huts found in Ancient Ruins,” _post_, p. 152). The gongs found at -Zimbabwe average 16½ in. high, and their sides are hammered together -out of two thick sheets of soft iron. They have no clappers, and are -intended to be struck from without. They have frequently been found -in Kazembe country between the Zambesi and Lake Tanganyika, where -the natives state that the gongs are not made now, and that they are -very old (_Anthrop. Journal_, 1901, Article 39). Dr. Holub (vol. ii., -p. 147) gives an illustration of a double iron gong of crude make and -design, still in use among the Barotse as a musical instrument. Sir -H. M. Stanley states that these double iron gongs were in use by the -natives of Urangi (Upper Congo), and also at Mangala on that river. -His illustrations of these gongs show great similarity to those found -in various parts of Southern Rhodesia. Several writers on South-East -Africa describe an identical iron gong still in use among the natives. -Each gong gives a different sound to its companion gong. - -A _single iron gong_ (Pl. II., fig. 22) was also found among old native -articles. The gong is oblong, and has an ornament at each end made -of tapered strips of iron coiled into circles, and these ornaments -strongly suggest that the gong was only used when suspended. It is 13½ -in. long and 5½ in. deep. No explorer in this country appears to have -seen a gong of this description. Its style and make are altogether -unique. - -One iron rod or sceptre, 3 ft. 5 in. long, was also found in a position -not suggestive of antiquity. This was recognised by the natives as -the rod of a chief, being a native symbol of power. Some of the -dynastic chiefs of the Makalanga still possess these iron rods. The -end of the rod is bent back to form the handle. Mr. Bent says the iron -sceptres borne by Makalanga chiefs have their parallels in the north -of the African continent! Ruling “with a rod of iron” is a scriptural -description of despotic government. - -Pieces of worked iron, with rings let through the top ends and -broadening at the base, where there is a different shaped hole of a -distinct form on each base, appear to have been _keys_ (Pl. II., figs. -7 and 8). These were found with the Arab belongings in Renders Ruins. - -[Illustration: _PLATE 3._ - -—Relics & “Finds”— -Great Zimbabwe 1802–3. - -Methuen & C^o] - -There are still to be seen the remains of native _iron-smelting -furnaces_, one being in almost perfect condition, but all are -exceedingly old, and were found standing seventy years ago, when the -present Makalanga came to live at Zimbabwe. The “female breast and -furrow” pattern is on every native furnace. Portions of _blow-pipes_ -and great quantities of _iron slag_ are found on the higher floors of -clay in several of the ruins. - - - 5. BRASS ARTICLES - -So far as investigations lead, no relics of brass have been found on -the lower floors of any of the ruins at Zimbabwe. But on the upper -clay floors brass in several forms is found in abundance. It will be -remembered that in 1514 Duarte Barbosa wrote, “The people of Monomotapa -come to Sofala charged with gold, and give such quantities that the -merchants gain one hundred for one.” This was written soon after the -first arrival of the Portuguese at Sofala, and given in a description -of Arab trade on the coast, which they found to be flourishing. But -before that period the Arab barter article for the gold was mainly -brass, though “coloured stuffs and beads of Cambay” were also used -for the purpose of barter, for the Arab trade with this country dated -back long before the arrival of the Portuguese. The Arab writer, Omar -ibn l’Wardi, stated (_circa_ 1200 A.D.), in alluding to South-East -Africa, “The most remarkable produce of this country is its quantity of -native gold ... in spite of which the natives adorn their persons with -ornaments of brass.” So to-day a native will gladly pay an enormous -amount over the cost price for any attractive-looking but shoddy brass -article. The brass ornaments of women weigh from 1½ lbs. to 3 lbs., -while the men spend hours in polishing and rearranging their brass -bangles. Therefore it is not surprising that brass wire, brass wire -bangles, and solid brass bangles, should be found on the clay floors of -the ruins. The quantity imported as barter goods for gold must have -been simply enormous, especially in view of the prevailing custom of -these people from time immemorial to bury with their dead all their -personal ornaments. - -There is one class of brass bangle that deserves some attention, and -this is found in positions suggesting a greater age than any other -finds of brass articles. This is a twisted wire bangle, but the wire -is flat and exceedingly narrow. In many of these the hair or fibre -round which it was coiled has disappeared with time. Coils of this -make of wire-work ready to be cut into lengths for bangles were found -in Renders Ruins. This and some coils of very fine rounded wire-work -were discovered in a fused condition. Brass beads both imported and of -native make are plentiful. - - - 6. FOREIGN STONES - -Every enclosure in the ruins at Zimbabwe which has been recently -examined yields stone altogether foreign to the granite formation -of the district. Many tons of _slate_ have been brought here from -a distance of at least eight miles, and also large quantities of -soapstone from a similar distance, while _dolorite_, once used as -anvils, was discovered, also _diorite_ used as hammers, _quartz_, -_jasper_ stone showing gold, _serpentine_ stone, _calcedony_ pebbles, -_crystal_ pebbles, _metamorphic slate_, _mica schist_, _ironstone_ -and _copper ore_, and one or two small fragments of _flint_, and some -_natural wind-worn stones_ of peculiar form. A lithologist could -very easily add considerably to this list. Two pieces of water-worn -diorite of the shape of rolling-pins were found in the débris below -the Platform at the Western Temple on the Acropolis. The finding of -one such stone might not in itself be considered of any moment, but -the discovery of two such pieces similar in shape may possibly have -some significance for the student of the litholatrous practices of -the ancients. The same might be said of several stones discovered -here, many of which in quantities naturally assume suggestive shapes, -while some are of purely imitative forms and not artificially treated. -Several of the quartz pebbles showed gold very richly. All these, with -the exception of the quartz, ironstone and copper ore, were found on -the lowest floors. - -There were also found water-worn stones, mostly slates, with artificial -depressions which had undoubtedly been used as tools, in some instances -as burnishing stones, these latter being found associated with the -older form of gold crucibles, and some of these had been most probably -selected on account of their shape admirably suiting the fingers of the -right hand. Some small slabs of slate found at considerable depths show -evidences of having been extensively used as whetstones for sharpening -edge tools. - -About one ton and a half of metamorphic slate, called by Mr. Bent -“black slate,” and similar to that used in the mural decorations on the -north face of the wall of No. 11 Enclosure and on the north-east wall -of the Platform, was found among the débris in the Sacred Enclosure and -in Nos. 9, 11, and 12 enclosures of the Elliptical Temple, especially -at the base of the wall containing the pattern formed by means of -these stones. All loose blocks are now stacked together in the Sacred -Enclosure (west) at the angle formed by the Platform and the wall -dividing off No. 9 Enclosure. At least some four tons of these blocks -had been brought to Zimbabwe, the nearest point being on the Motelekwe -River, at eight miles east-north-east of Zimbabwe. It is somewhat -remarkable that no such blocks were found in the western half of the -Elliptical Temple, nor on the Acropolis, nor at any other ruin in the -locality. - -Beds of small splinters of imported quartz have been found at several -points within the ruin’s area, the largest being on the west side of -No. 1 Ruins and on the north side of the summit of Rusivanga Kopje. -Splinters of quartz are found on all cement floors and on such floors -as are made of burnt clay. Some of the quartz showed traces of gold, -but most of the pannings were blank. It has never been supposed that -the original builders carried on extensive quartz-crushing operations -at Zimbabwe, but that the gold was brought to Zimbabwe in the form of -dust to be smelted into ingots, both for export and local manufacture. -Possibly the quartz was brought here for testing purposes, for these -people who were so well acquainted with the nature of quartz-mining -must have had some centres throughout the country where quartz could be -tested, and it is quite natural that the “assay office” of the ancients -for the surrounding districts might have been at Zimbabwe. - - - 7. BEADS - -In addition to beads of gold, copper, and brass, several other -descriptions of these articles have recently been found at Zimbabwe. - -The most important are two large beads similar to one found by Mr. -Bent, and to which he attributed a great antiquity, also some broken -pieces of similar beads. These are black, and are covered with flowers -resembling primroses, and the flower is outlined by parallel white -lines. The spaces between these lines are filled in with dark brown and -violet glaze. These were all found at great depth. The local natives -had not seen beads of this make before. - -Beads of ivory and bone, also opaque glass beads—green and yellow, -porcelain beads of sea-green colour and ribbed, have been found, the -glass and porcelain beads being quite unknown to the present natives. A -diamond-shaped calcedony bead,[36] some clay beads bearing chevron and -herring-bone patterns, were found on the lower clay floors. - - - 8. WHORLS - -Pottery whorls of about 1½ in. to 3 in. in diameter have been found in -hundreds. These were used by old natives for drawing the threads out -of a mass of cotton. A stick was passed through the centre, and the -bottom end was inserted in the cotton, while the upper part was twisted -round quickly between the palms of the hand. Most whorls are cut out of -fragments of native bowls and pots. Many old natives will explain how -they were used. These clay whorls are found in old deserted villages -and in Makalanga débris heaps. The native children search for them, and -use them as tops. It is said they were once also employed in creating -sparks for a fire, but to-day the natives twirl the sticks between -their palms without using a whorl. A few soapstone whorls have been -found, but not in any position suggesting antiquity. The Makalanga of -but a generation past were adepts in carving soapstone. - - - 9. GLASS POTTERY AND CHINA - -These finds are so numerous and diversified that they require a -special work for their proper treatment. Some two hundred specimens -selected from the bulk have been collected, and these with particulars -as to their locations and associated articles, with specimens found -elsewhere in Rhodesia, will be laid before an expert for technical -classification, when another avenue of research with regard to the -ancient and mediæval occupiers of this country, both native and -foreign, will certainly be opened up. Meantime a brief reference to the -finds, or some of them, will here suffice. - -Two portions of glass prisms, fragments of Venetian glass of dark -green colour, being as thin and sometimes thinner than an ordinary -watch-glass, have quite recently been found. Sections of two bowls -of Arabian glass[37] covered with very fine and delicately engraved -tracery of scroll-work of flowers and tendrils. The engraving is so -minute that it can only be seen in a strong light. - -Over and across the engraved designs are hand-painted flowers of -primrose shape, each flower outlined in white, light blue, and pink, -the buds being pink and white, and the stems a dark red. The shape -of the bowls was that of the modern finger-glass. All these were -discovered at considerable depths. - -[Illustration: Arabian Glass - - _Trace of Post-Koranic lettering. - Painted in Blue._ - - _Painted Flower._ - _Inner circle_ _Torbay Red._ - _Middle do._ _White._ - _Outer do._ _Blue._ -] - -Most of the pottery was found in hundred-weights in débris heaps and -scattered throughout all the clay floors in all the ruins with the -exception of some enclosures in the Valley of Ruins. But such pottery -can be shown to be of native make. To anyone casually inspecting the -pottery it may appear as of one and the same make, save perhaps in the -colour of the clay of which it is made. But there are wide differences -in the pottery, both in the clays, the make, designs, ornamentation, -colourings, and also in their locations and in their manufacturers, -just as among the present natives. - -The Barotse pottery, for instance, is of a more substantial make than -is that of any known period or tribe of Makalanga. The patterns are -large, bold, and entirely geometrical, and are coloured yellow, red, -or black, with the designs painted in strong contrast to the general -colour of the pot. Thus black patterns are laid on yellow and red -grounds, red patterns on yellow and black, and yellow patterns on black -and red. A collection of Barotse pottery made by Major Corydon from -north of the Zambesi is a facsimile in make and design of the Barotse -pottery found at Thabas Imamba, Khami, Zimbabwe, and other ruins known -to have been occupied by Barotse up to seventy years ago. A collection -of pottery from Khami which was brought for comparative examination to -Zimbabwe was at once claimed by the local Barotse as being of Barotse -make, while the local Makalanga not only emphatically denied that it -was of their class of make and design, but added that it was the work -of the Barotse people. The encircling bands of ornamentation on Barotse -pottery vary from 1½ in. to 3 in. or more in depth.[38] - -Thus Makalanga pottery has its own peculiar characteristics which are -easily discernible on examination. It is generally found to be black -with a highly polished surface. The bowls and pots have a lighter and -more delicate appearance, and the excellent quality of clay used, and -its thorough manipulation, enables it to be much thinner in make yet -equally as strong as those of coarser make; the coloured decoration -also is altogether absent, while the pattern is more neatly executed, -and is enclosed in encircling bands of from only half an inch to one -inch in depth. Further, the Makalanga have always decorated their -pottery with protruding bosses of shapes and designs peculiar to -themselves, the female breast pattern predominating. There are at -least fifty different sorts of such protruding designs already found -on undoubted Makalanga floors, and these have been selected for -examination. The pot shown in the illustration facing page 90 of _The -Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_ is of very old Makalanga work, of which many -scores are found represented at Zimbabwe. - -Finds of native pottery bear no traces of the potter’s wheel. All -native pottery is made by hand. - -Very common sun-burnt earthenware, more earth than clay, and very -light, is found in great quantities everywhere in the ruins, most of -this having no decoration. - -Old Makalanga smeared the body of a pot with several thin coats of -different-coloured clays, and sections of such pottery show the lines -of smearings very distinctly. - -The best quality of pottery was found on one of the lowest floors in -the Elliptical Temple. The fragments are very heavy for their size, -and the surface is coated with soapstone clay, giving them a light -greenish-grey colour. These must be exceedingly old if not ancient. - -The china discovered includes Nankin china identical in every -particular with the Nankin china discovered at these ruins by Mr. Bent -and others, and with that found in Mazoe and so many other districts -where there still exist distinct evidences of occupation by the early -Portuguese. The china, or porcelain, is covered completely with a -highly rich glaze of bright blue and sea-green shades, and the articles -when pieced together resemble in shape, an ordinary soup-plate. The -edges are bevelled in sections of circles, the bevels extending in -fluted form to the base, where can be seen evidences of the use of the -potter’s wheel. The fragments found represent three different plates. -These were discovered at some depth, but not on any ancient floor. - -One find made among the Arab belongings in Renders Ruins consists of -excellent china of a light brown colour, about a quarter of an inch -thick, and covered with a high glaze of blue, white, and gold enamel, -the white forming the background. There are at least four bands of -pattern encircling what was a large open bowl with upright edges. The -conjectured Arab lettering is laid on with blue enamel and is outlined -with fine scroll-work tracery in gold. The inside is glazed white, and -has lines of faint blue enamel artistically drawn without being of any -set pattern. The pattern on the lowest band is of palm fronds in brown -paint and in outline only.[39] - -[Illustration] - -Some very thin pottery covered with white enamel some inches only -down from the rim towards the outer and inner base, with thick -perpendicular bars of dull blue glaze. Excellent pottery of brown clay, -very thickly covered with glaze of sea-green and deep lake colours, was -found near the same spot. - - - 10. A MEDIÆVAL ARAB TRADING STATION - -One of the most interesting discoveries recently made was at Renders -Ruins in the Valley of Ruins. In a corner of one of the enclosures of -these ruins, and at some depth, and all within a few feet, were found -the glazed pottery with Arab lettering, an iron lamp-stand and copper -chain, an iron spoon of great age, copper snake-rings (pronounced not -to be of native make), and several other articles suggesting some far -back period of an Arab occupation, most probably of mediæval times. -Over this collection of finds was a deep bed of soil silted by rains -from higher ground, and on this surface were fragments of a Makalanga -clay floor broken up by the roots. The Arab traders gave the first -description of these ruins to the Portuguese, and Barbosa (1514), De -Barros (1552), and Livio Sanuto (1588), mention the existence of Great -Zimbabwe on the strength of information concerning it received from the -Arab gold and ivory traders. - -In all probability this was an Arab trading centre of mediæval times, -and by “taking stock” of the barter goods, some corroboration of this -suggestion may be obtained. The “stock in trade” consisted of:— - - 2 pints of small yellow and green glass beads which are unknown - to present natives. - - 1 pint of similar beads of larger size, also unknown to present - natives. - - 100 (at least) porcelain beads, ribbed, and of sea-green - colour, also unknown to natives. - - 15 lbs. of twisted iron wire-work in large coils for making - bangles, and cut up into lengths for bangles. - - 5 lbs. of twisted brass flat wire in large coils also, not cut - into lengths for bangles. - - 5 lbs. of twisted brass rounded wire, ditto. - - 4 doz. brass flat wire bangles and a great quantity of - fragments of other bangles. - - Cowrie shells. - -The mediæval traders might have received the following from the -natives:— - - 2 elephant tusks (decayed). - 2 wart-hog tusks. - 20 (about) pieces of beaten gold. - Several pieces of broken gold-wire bangles. - -As the Arabs traded for gold produced by the natives, and also for -ivory, no doubt they or the natives would fossick in the ruins, then -much clearer of débris, for gold which they or the Arabs might have -known was to be found in the enclosures. The beaten gold was all found -within a few inches, and though its edges were pierced with tack-holes, -pannings of the soil showed no gold tacks. As the Makalanga of those -times were at their zenith of power, it is quite possible they did the -actual searching themselves, and then parted with their finds to the -Arabs, who, as history shows, only occupied the land on sufferance, the -Arabs making their usual gain, which, according to Barbosa, was “one -hundred for one.” - -It might well be asked why these old Arabs left their goods behind -them. The fickle policy of successive Monomotapas might be a sufficient -explanation of their apparently hasty exodus. According to Portuguese -records Kapranzine, the Monomotapa in 1620, sided with the Portuguese -as against the local Arabs, and the succeeding Monomotapa “Pedro” in -1643 maintained this policy. But the disappearance of the Arab traders -from Renders Ruins will in all probability always remain an unsolved -enigma. But one question may be asked with regard to the beads found -here—Were they “beads of Cambay”? - -A large piece of coral still in perfect condition was found with the -Arab articles. It has been stated, with what truth the author cannot -say, that finely ground coral powder makes an excellent metal polish, -and that the Arabs and Indian metal-workers on the coast use it for -this purpose. Certainly the Arab traders up country would constantly -require to refurbish their brass goods, and so keep them attractive for -sale to the natives. Fragments of coral have been found in other ruins -at Zimbabwe, also at ruins in different parts of Southern Rhodesia very -much further inland from the coast than is Zimbabwe. - -[Illustration: Section of Floors of part of N^o. 6 ENCLOSURE Elliptical -Temple looking South-East & shewing locations of “Finds” (1902–3) - - 1. _Modern Kafir articles & traces of Iron smelting furnaces._ - - 2. _Excellent native pottery, pottery gold scorifiers, iron - pincers, beaten gold, Arabian glass, burnishing stones, - coral, very old yellow & green beads, large iron nails, crude - soapstone moulds, Nankin china._ - - 3. _Fragments of soapstone beams._] - - - - - CHAPTER VII - - NOTES ON ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE AT GREAT ZIMBABWE[40] - - Introduction—Durability of Walls—Dilapidations—Makalanga - Walls within the ruins—Remains of Native Huts found in - Ruins—Passages—Entrances and Buttresses. - - -Since 1892, when the late Theodore Bent published his work on _The -Ruined Cities of Mashonaland_, and 1893, when Sir John Willoughby -issued his monograph on _Further Explorations at Zimbabwe_, though -much has been discovered concerning the varying architectural types of -ancient ruins throughout Southern Rhodesia, little has been added to -our previous meagre store of information concerning the important group -of ruins at Great Zimbabwe. - -But in the work now in progress of preserving these ruins from -preventable decay and dilapidation, and of clearing away the block -débris from the faces of the walls and the huge piles of soil débris -deposited within the ruins by a long succession of explorers, both -authorised and unauthorised, there have been within the last two years -rescued from oblivion many important architectural features, the -existence of which was altogether unsuspected by previous writers. Many -of the interiors of the ruins are now exposed to view, thus enabling -examinations, comparison, and measurements to be taken which before had -been altogether impossible. Within the last eighteen months Zimbabwe -has revealed many of the long-buried secrets of the ancient architects -which were hidden from the eyes of Bent, Schlichter, and other -scientific explorers of the ruins. - -Zimbabwe is stored with surprises for archæologists and antiquarians. -Absorbing romance is buried deep below its floors. Its soil is richly -charged with long-ungazed-at gold and prehistoric relics of high -intrinsic value. The mysteries of the absence in Zimbabwe of any -definite records in the form of inscriptions,[41] and also of the -non-discovery within the Zimbabwe area of the burial-places of the -ancients, have yet to be solved. - -It has quite recently been held by scientists at home that the late -discoveries of ancient ruins in Rhodesia, with their classifications -into types and probable time-sequences and periods of distinct forms -of architecture, have so advanced investigations in this country -that, until similar work has been carried on among such of the ruins -of Southern Arabia as are believed to synchronise with, or be the -architectural prototypes of, the earliest of the Rhodesian monuments, -it would be idle to speak dogmatically as to the lands of origin of -the succession of ancient builders and gold miners who toiled so -industriously in this portion of South-East Africa. - -Still, but so far only as authentic discoveries have been made, the -suggested occupation by the Sabæo-Arabians as outlined in chapter iii. -of _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_ affords for the present a good -working hypothesis for the student in Rhodesia whose aim should be to -closely watch the operations of archæologists and antiquarians in the -land of ancient Yemen, while at the same time recording with the utmost -exactness and fullest detail all and every possible architectural -feature of such of the ruins in Rhodesia as may fall within the -description of the First Period of Zimbabwe - -Architecture, of which the Great Zimbabwe is undoubtedly a most -perfect example. This work will awaken the most piquant interest and -fascination, for in this direction may be found the definite solution -of our local problem as to which particular wave of the Semitic -migrations is responsible for the erection of certain of our ruins. - -That the Great Zimbabwe will be found to be pregnant with clues to -solve the mystery is undoubted. Notwithstanding two years’ work in -clearing the ruins of fallen walls and silted-in soil, nine-tenths of -the ruins still remain practically buried. Sir John Willoughby, after -spending two months in exploring the Elliptical Temple with a large -staff of labourers, writes that it would take at least two years to -complete the exploration of that building, and this without touching -anything ancient or piercing ancient floors, but simply leaving the -building clear of all débris and just in the same condition, save for -dilapidations, as the last race of ancient occupiers knew it. If, -therefore, the Elliptical Temple would require this amount of time -to be spent upon it—and this is a fair estimate of work yet to be -done—then the Acropolis ruins must require at least a further three -years to be spent upon them, and this calculation does not include -the large number of ruins in the Valley of Ruins, which, if situated -elsewhere in the country, would be considered of major importance. -But the area of the Zimbabwe ruins, as known to Sir John Willoughby, -was only 945 yds. by 940 yds. To-day, after carefully searching the -surrounding kopjes, kloofs, and valleys, other ruins and walls, and -traces of ancient walls, can be found at a distance of a mile from the -Elliptical Temple. The Bentberg has its northern face covered with -walls. Rusivanga Kopje shows foundations of walls and débris. Near -Bingura’s kraal, a mile to the south-west, is a ruin, while extensive -beds of imported gold quartz—the nearest reef being some miles -distant—with piles of ancient blocks are to be discovered after a grass -fire in almost all directions within the distance of a mile, and fresh -traces of old peoples, other than those early Makalanga, are to be met -with in the course of almost every walk. Thus the probabilities of new -and important discoveries are incalculably great. - - • • • • • - -_Degree of durability of walls._—(_a_) As may be seen by anyone -inspecting the walls, as well as on perusing the published description -of many ruins of the earliest types, the elliptical and curved form -of building has proved the most durable. In many instances the -elliptical structures are more or less intact, while the angular and -less skilfully built additions, extensions, and alterations of a later -period have largely become ruinous and chaotic. - -(_b_) This is accounted for by the more excellent workmanship in the -construction of the ruins of the elliptical type, which have far -broader foundations, are more massive, have a decided batter-back both -inside and outside, bonded courses, the blocks of each course being -more carefully selected, and the summits tied with “throughs,” while -the angular type of ruins, with their plumb walls built on straight -lines, with independent faces either side and carelessly filled-in -interiors, and a less superior workmanship, have caused these walls to -suffer more than the older type of ruins. - -(_c_) Walls built on curved lines are in a far better state of -preservation than those built on straight lines, the curves having -served to strengthen the walls. - -(_d_) Rounded ends of walls and rounded buttresses have proved to be -far more durable than angular ends or squared buttresses, though most -of these latter erections are obviously of a later date. - -(_e_) The portions of divisional walls near main walls are in a better -state of preservation than the other portions which are in the open -parts of the ruins. This is owing to the protection and support of the -larger walls. Many of the divisional walls are practically independent, -and therefore more liable to collapse, but if not independent the -number of entrances passing through them practically makes them such. - - • • • • • - -_Dilapidations._—At Zimbabwe both the ravages of time, as well as -preventable damage during the last decade, have brought about the -wholesale destruction of walls as seen to-day in their dilapidated -condition. This is the plaint of all who have known the ruins since -the time of the occupation. These all bemoan the fact that on each -renewed visit to the ruins some wall is found to have disappeared, or -some new bulging out of the massive structures threatens serious and -immediate destruction, which no amount of lateral support or pinning -up can now possibly prevent. Many such visitors complain that the -decorative patterns are becoming less perfect. Photographs show this to -be the case. In fact, so much dilapidation has taken place within the -last few years that it is a common remark of pioneers that “the ruins -are becoming less and less every year,” while intense disappointment -and vexation are expressed by “old hands” when they revisit the temple -after an interval of a few years at the serious reduction in the height -of the Conical Tower. Photographs of the tower taken as recently as -1896 represent the summit as being higher than is seen to-day, while -almost every photograph taken within the last two or three years of any -single part of these ruins shows portions, if not the whole, of walls, -with their distinctive features that have completely disappeared. To -those who venerate these ancient edifices nothing can be sadder than a -comparison of the ruins as seen to-day with the ruins as they were some -years ago. - -But before dealing with the dilapidations of later years it might be -well to examine the history of such of the dilapidations as can be -read in the wall débris heaps which line the bases of every wall, for -these débris heaps can be read with the same facility as one can read a -book. These dilapidations are what might be termed legitimate, being -the natural results of the ravages of time, which no means taken could -possibly have avoided, and which have extended for very many centuries -on end since the latest of the ancient occupiers disappeared. - -In Tintern, Melrose, and many another old building at Home we have -ruins even now incomplete, owing to the dilapidations of but a few -hundred years. But the most ancient ruins of Great Britain, excepting, -of course, Stonehenge, the round towers of Ireland, the Druidical -circles of Wales, the stone circles and cloven stones of the Isle of -Man, and the reputed pagan temples found elsewhere, and certain of the -Roman remains of which at present little is known, possess histories, -and _Domesday Book_, and even much later records, state the names of -the actual builders of these castles and abbeys. These buildings have -a stamp upon them of modernity which is altogether absent at Zimbabwe, -in comparison with the age of which the term “ancient,” as applied -to those at Home, elastic as it is, sounds strangely inappropriate. -And yet after a comparatively short period of non-occupation of these -castles and buildings only sections of them can now be seen. Guides -will state that the walls have been quarried for material for farm -buildings, most probably for the erection of the adjoining mansion, and -that portions were destroyed by lightning. - -But Zimbabwe, with its minimum age of some three millenniums, -stands far more firm, more intact, and complete than any one of the -comparatively few-centuried old ruins to be found anywhere at Home. -Planted in South-East Africa at over two hundred miles inland from the -coast, in the midst of populations that know nothing whatever of its -origin, Zimbabwe’s massive and imposing walls reveal even to the most -casual and indifferent of visitors the plan, purpose, and design of the -original builders. Yet has it been subjected for three millenniums to -the destructive agency of lightning storms, the frequency and severity -of which in South-East Africa are well known. Severe earthquakes must -have shaken its foundations, but the massive walls remain practically -intact. Arab tradition speaks of violent earthquakes in South-East -Africa during the fifth century, while the condition of some of the -ruins in Rhodesia, where the walls have fallen _en bloc_ sideways on to -the ground, testifies to frequent, general, and violent earth-movements -and earth-strains having taken place. The South-East African cyclones -passing over it during thirty centuries probably have caused further -dilapidations. Still, though so many walls at Zimbabwe remain more -or less intact, it would be impossible to estimate the extent to -which many walls may have suffered, or what have possibly disappeared -altogether from the effects of earthquakes, for it would be difficult -to suppose that these extensive ruins—some walls being built on the -actual brink of precipices—have escaped all the destructive effects of -earth-movements and storms which have occurred during the last three -thousand years. - -The action of sub-tropical rains for centuries has destroyed whole -lengths of walls. For instance, a trench which occupied half a dozen -labourers two days to excavate was, after a heavy shower lasting but an -hour, completely filled up by mud streams from a higher level. There -is hardly a wall on the Acropolis Hill that has not had to bear some -added weight of silted soil from higher levels, and these in places -have been so extensive that when accumulated on the upper sides of -walls the effect has been to push the wall bodily over. In this way the -terraces of enclosures round the north, west, and south faces of the -Acropolis have in most instances been entirely filled up and buried, -while in others the outer and down-side wall has been burst through -and destroyed. Streams of water during storms of real African violence -have worn deep channels along the bases of some of the walls, exposing -the foundations which bridge across the holes, the water causing the -decomposition of the cement bed of the foundations and making the -wall throughout its complete height to sway downwards and to bulge -threateningly outwards. Some of these water-made holes up against the -bases of the walls contained damp and moisture all through the dry -season, especially those on the south side of walls where the holes -were protected from the sun. In as many cases as possible for the time -engaged on the preservation work (1902–4) these spots were levelled, -and catchment areas were made, so that for the future no rain-water can -lodge there, but the waving lines of the courses in the walls still -show where these holes existed. - -In a similar way block débris falling from higher levels has lodged -behind lower walls and eventually pressed them over. In some instances -on the Acropolis a mass of walling has fallen from a great height and -completely demolished walls below. These were no gradual dilapidations, -but instances where sections of the higher wall had gone completely -over _en masse_. Such falls almost entirely explain the damage done -to the outer walls of the South-East Ancient Ascent, lengths of which -have evidently been made good by Kafirs of a very old period, as the -well-built ancient foundations can be seen below the later walls. - -But some walls have also been seriously damaged by falls of huge slabs -and boulders from the faces of the granite cliffs, buttresses have been -broken, entrances and passages completely blocked up if not utterly -demolished. These falls, though later than the times of the ancients, -occurred very long ago, for the depressions in the cliffs from which -these slabs and boulders fell are now become weather-stained, but the -shapes of the depressions and of the slabs and boulders still agree. It -is conjectured that the gap in the central portion of the main wall of -the Eastern Temple was caused by the fall of an immense boulder from -the summit of the sixty-foot cliff on the north side of the temple. -By the moving forward of a boulder for six feet from the position it -occupied at the time of the ancients—and they had utilised this boulder -in forming the west entrance of the same temple—the entrance was -completely blocked up. - -But there is a process of dilapidation going on continually, a -process which, judging by the débris piles, has been operating for -many centuries. When walking near a wall one has to be very careful -not to walk under any of the overhanging blocks on the summit of the -wall. Some of these blocks are very delicately poised on the edges of -the walls, so much so that it seems as if a shout would cause them -to fall. Wherever possible these blocks have been drawn back flush -again with the face of the wall, but in very many cases the walls -are so ruined that it would be dangerous work to do this. It is one -of the unfortunate effects of this ancient dry masonry that when one -block topples over a small cascade of blocks usually follows it. Such -falls, followed by cascades of blocks, are continually taking place. -One hears them night and day, especially after rains, and frequently -these cascades, especially those from walls above the precipice -on the Acropolis, will continue uninterruptedly for some minutes -together. There are many points in walls so threatening to collapse -that no builder’s art of shoring-up could possibly prevent their fall, -for sooner or later they must come down with a crash. Natives give -the information that from the time of their childhood they always -remembered these falls taking place when no one was near the walls. -Probably the noise of falling blocks, especially at night, has served -to inspire the local natives with some of the dread in which after -sundown they regard the ruins. After a heavy shower one can always find -some damage done to the walls. This is mainly due to the quantity of -silted soil behind walls, which, becoming overgutted with water, forces -the walls over. The only remedy, and that a partial one, would appear -to be to remove the silted soil from behind the walls, but to complete -such operations a large gang of labourers would have to be engaged for -many months. Still the complaint of the early pioneer that the walls -at Zimbabwe are gradually becoming not only less but fewer remains -perfectly incontrovertible. - -But there is an infinitude of other causes working for the dilapidation -of the ancient walls at Zimbabwe, and some of these are undoubtedly -preventable. It was for the purpose of removing such causes of damage -that the recent work of preservation was undertaken on behalf of the -Rhodesian Government, and these operations it is the purpose of this -volume to describe. - -The Great Zimbabwe, as also the many associated ruins scattered -throughout Southern Rhodesia, has been subject to wholesale destruction -of its walls by the growth of trees, the presence of damp, the falling -of immense trees across walls, the quarrying of its walls by past and -present natives for building material, for cattle kraals, and other -purposes. All the ruins at Zimbabwe afford ample evidences of the -ravages caused by vegetable growth, and no ruin appears to have escaped -some measure of destruction from this cause. - -In 1902 the Elliptical Temple was found to be full of large trees of -immense girth, some being at least sixty feet in height. The shelter -from the chilly winds prevailing at night and in the dry winter -season, and the protection from damage to bark by grass fires provided -by the high and massive walls, together with the perpetual state -of damp from wet season to wet season prevailing within the walls, -the close, hothouse temperature most favourable to the promotion of -growth, provided an area in which trees and plants could flourish most -luxuriantly. - -The trees within the temple are almost all hard woods of slow growth. -One tree, not by any means a large one, showed by its rings an age of -over a hundred years. The numerous fig-trees must be of great age. -The three immense hard-wood trees in the centre of the building may -possibly be a hundred years old. The rest of the temple was as full of -soft-wooded trees as space permitted, while the branches of trees near -the main walls crowded over the tops of the walls towards the outside. -Undergrowth of monkey-ropes, wild vines, thorn creepers, and large -bushes formed a dense jungle through which it was almost impossible to -pass, while the damp maintained the soil in a wet, soggy state, the -trees being covered with orchids and long, trailing festoons of lichen, -the shaded walls being one mass of creepers, green moss, lichens, and -ferns, and dripping with damp. Certainly such growth made the temple -beautifully picturesque, and added greatly to its weird, desolate, and -solemn appearance. - -But a succession of “dust-devils” or “wind twisters” that very -frequently pass over the country in the breathless sultry hours of -noon passed over Zimbabwe on the second day after our arrival, and at -once demonstrated what damage the trees were inflicting on the ruins. -Branches were set crunching and thumping on the summits of all the -walls, soft-wood trees bent and swept the walls of loose blocks, two -huge hard-wood branches remorselessly scraped noisily up and down the -sides and on the top of the Conical Tower, while small trees growing -on the actual summits of the walls shook and bent and still further -loosened the blocks among which their roots extended. During the few -minutes these “twisters” lasted the labourers studiously avoided the -walls from which the ancient blocks were falling. Under every branch -that crossed over a wall was a deep depression in the summit caused -by the branch thudding upon it. Many of the trees growing close to -the walls had, with long years of banging against the side of the -wall, lost all their bark on their inner sides, and these had become -perfectly flat. All this havoc, caused by rocking trees and sweeping -branches, and by huge broken limbs falling upon interior walls, must -have been going on for many years. The effect has been to cause the -removal of the “throughs,” ties, and large bonding stones with which -the ancients secured the summits of the walls, and these once gone -the wall was subject to rapid dilapidation. Later, during high winds -which prevailed for some days, it was most distressing to hear the -noise of the trees grating and heavily beating against the walls, -and the constant falling down of ancient blocks. The effects of such -destruction can be seen to-day in the broken edges of the summits -and in the deep depressions which occur at intervals along the lines -of both main and divisional walls. Even the chevron pattern has been -irretrievably damaged by branches of trees growing outside the temple, -while the little tower in the Sacred Enclosure has, within the last few -years, been thrown over by a huge branch. - -But in 1902–4 all trees growing near walls were felled, all projecting -branches and rotten limbs were removed, as well as all trees which -caused damp to collect on walls, while a general thinning out was made -of all branches which interfered with a general view all round the -building. Such trees as had done all the possible harm they could do -and all trees standing at a distance from walls were left standing. -The result has been to make the temple less “picturesque” than in its -neglected state, but it still remains picturesque. The temple now -appears to be larger, and its massive proportions now made visible -stand out far more prominently than before. - -The present trees appear to have been the first that ever grew within -the temple area. In the soil removed from ancient floors there were -no signs of any older generations of trees having existed. The first -appear to have arrived with the soil brought in by the past Makalanga -in the course of their usual practice of converting ancient enclosures -into platforms on which to erect their huts. The trees evidently -flourished in the soil made rich by huge piles of bones of oxen and -buck, the remains of feasts and sacrifices. Except in a few instances -where rain-water was unable to escape, and has caused the ancient -cement flooring to become decomposed, the roots of the trees rarely -pierce below the ancient floors, the surfaces of which are covered with -matted roots closely interwoven in masses like the roots of a large -plant growing in a small pot. - -The jungle growth of small trees, bushes, and creepers would seem to be -the result of excavators, who have broken up the hard clay floors of -the old Makalanga and thus ventilated the soil below, as those places -where most excavation work has been done have produced the greatest -quantities of trees and the densest jungles. Until the whole of this -foreign soil is removed down to the level of an ancient floor this -jungle growth will always spring up afresh. - -But the growth of creepers such as monkey-rope, wild vines, and a -climbing plant known as “Zimbabwe creeper,” has wrought untold havoc, -but mainly on the faces of the walls. These creepers pierce into the -joints of the dry masonry and emerge at a point some feet higher up. -Later the branch inside the wall swells and forces out of the face of -the wall all the blocks between the points where it enters into and -emerges from the wall. This destruction of the walls by creepers is -seen in many places at every one of the numerous ruins at Zimbabwe. -Monkey-rope at the Elliptical Temple and wild vine on the Acropolis -have been the most destructive agents of any of the creeper plants. The -“Zimbabwe creeper” was found to be growing on the temple walls with -its roots on the summits. This plant covered the main walls as with a -thick green mantle, at some points completely hiding the entire surface -of the walls. It also had its roots in the interstices of the Chevron -Pattern, from the blocks of which it hung in festoons of over one -hundred-weight each. This constant strain on the pattern has effected -some destruction in addition to the injuries caused by the overhanging -boughs of trees. The dilapidation of the walls of the Elliptical Temple -is fairly typical of the dilapidations at all the ruins at Zimbabwe. - -But there are also minor causes for the dilapidation seen in the walls -outside the larger ruins. The restless herd of some seventy cattle -belonging to the Mogabe climb the lower walls with ease, and will walk -along their whole length clanking the ancient blocks, and awkwardly -clamber down broken ends of walls and gaps, bringing down a cataract -of blocks as they descend. Some two hundred goats appear to live on -the walls. Large baboons can be seen taking their morning exercise on -the walls of the Acropolis, and as these scamper about and chase one -another the blocks fall off the walls. Natives pull out the faces of -the walls to secure honey, or in ferreting out small animals for food. - -It must also be remembered that the ancient walls have been quarried by -Makalanga of past times and even by the present local Makalanga, all -of whom have extensively used the ancient blocks for their inferior -walls. But perhaps the greatest amount of dilapidation was effected -when the large enclosed areas of the ruins were filled up and converted -into raised platforms. In these instances, which are very numerous, the -divisional walls suffered most, the blocks from their summits being -thrown into the area till the interior was raised from 4 ft. to 7 ft. -above the ancient floors, when clay floors were laid upon the filling -in. - -On entering the Elliptical Temple of the Acropolis one of the first -questions asked by visitors is—Are all these walls ancient? It is to -the interest of our local archæological researches that such a question -should be fairly dealt with, and the frank admission made that certain -of the walls are not ancient. In examining the evidences against the -antiquity of such walls a further proof is secured, were it needed, -that such of the walls as are ancient possess undoubtedly the true seal -of antiquity. - -_Makalanga walls within ancient ruins at Zimbabwe._—It would be -preposterous to expect anyone who visited the ruins to believe that -every single wall one saw at Zimbabwe, whether at the Elliptical Temple -or on the Acropolis, was necessarily ancient. - -Some of the slighter-built walls within the ruins, which are of poor -construction, and were once thought to be ancient, can now be shown -to have been built by the Makalanga, the evidences of whose long and -successive periods of occupation of these ruins are not only most -obvious to all explorers and are confirmed by finds and conditions -generally, but are a matter both of actual history as well as of -tradition among the local natives themselves. Some of the ruins have -been used by them for kraals, others—the smaller ones—were converted -into cattle kraals with the huts outside the walls, while some have -served both purposes. It is highly probable, judging by the state of -the wall-débris, that the natives, in converting an ancient enclosure -into a cattle kraal, have found portions of the divisional walls to be -so dilapidated that they have rebuilt those portions after their own -peculiar and recognisable fashion in order to keep in the cattle, at -the same time building up gaps and entrances. - -While, according to statements of natives and judging also from the -state of the ruins, there has been no occupation of the Elliptical -Temple as a place of residence for the last three generations, -still there are Makalanga walls to be seen, both here and in the -Acropolis, at which latter ruins was the kraal, till four years ago, -of the present Mogabe; and on the Acropolis are walls of Makalanga -construction, both old and comparatively recent. The western enclosures -of the Elliptical Temple have been used as cattle kraals up to the -early seventies. - -The following are some of the evidences of Makalanga construction of -walls within the ruins:— - -(_a_) The definite and circumstantial claim of the Makalanga to have -built certain walls, and their ability to assign particular generations -for the erection of other walls. - -(_b_) The construction of such walls is identified with obvious -Makalanga buildings in their kraals, where there are no ancient ruins. -The purpose of the later walls is in many instances patent, especially -when the smell of the modern byres still lingers in the soil of the -areas used by natives as cattle kraals enclosed by such walls. - -(_c_) Stones once part of the faces of ancient walls are used in the -construction of those walls, the weather-stained, lichen-covered, and -decomposed faces of the blocks being turned inside the walls either -sideways or backwards, while the walls show no sign of age, and have a -comparatively fresh appearance. Slate and granite monoliths, as well -as ordinary slate beams which had once been lintels, have been used as -building material. - -(_d_) Débris heaps of ancient blocks have been used as foundations, and -sometimes these heaps acted as sections in the length of wall. - -(_e_) Frequently such walls are built in a very irregular line along -the almost buried summits of ancient walls, and across filled-in -entrances and even passages, the foundations of such walls projecting -from underneath the Makalanga walls on either side. - -(_f_) Some of the Makalanga walls are built over damp, black leaf mould -containing undecayed vegetable matter and also ordinary Kafir articles, -the mould being over a stratum of red clay foundations of Makalanga -huts, and with two or three feet of soil and stones between the clay -and any floor below for which antiquity could be claimed. Makalanga -pottery has been used to support and wedge up uneven ends of blocks. - -(_g_) The made foundations of Makalanga walls are of common clay, those -of ancient walls being of a splendid quality of granite cement. - -(_h_) Nothing ancient or even approaching to antiquity is ever -discovered on the levels of the bases of Makalanga walls, but round -about their bases quantities of Makalanga articles may be found, some -perhaps of better make and quality than now produced by them. - -(_i_) Local natives can to-day build very fair stone walls, but these -have straight joints and are without tie or bonding, the courses are -most erratic, and the line of wall wavering. The common feature of -Makalanga wall construction is to build the stones up exactly over one -another, giving the appearance to the wall of being built on columns. -Their stone walls of cattle kraals can be seen in many deserted -villages, as well as other of their walls where there are no ancient -ruins. The Makalanga graves in the passages, both in the Elliptical -Temple and in the Acropolis, were very well built in with cross-walls. - -(_j_) The Makalanga since mediæval times have always been known as -builders in stone. Their circular hut and granary foundations of stone -can still be seen in many parts of the country, especially on the -clay floors of filled-in enclosures of ancient ruins of the terraced -order. This art is mentioned by Mr. Selous and by almost all writers -on this country before the Occupation, and pioneers and early settlers -have affirmed this to be the case. Bent gives the names of Makalanga -villages which he visited where these contained stone buildings of -native construction. The names of other villages where such buildings -are to be found are given by other writers. Bent actually saw their -stone-building operations being carried on at Chipanza’s kraal. -Professor Bryce describes a Makalanga village with stone buildings, but -just as the arts of mining, smelting, wire-twisting, and cloth weaving -are now fast disappearing on the advent of the cheap imported article, -and on the natives finding other objects upon which to spend their -time and labour, the art of stone building is becoming neglected. Old -pioneers visiting the ruins are unanimous in affirming that such walls -so built and so conditioned are of undoubted Makalanga construction. -There are stone buildings at Cherimabila’s kraal, nine miles west from -Zimbabwe. Mr. Drew considers the Barotse to be now the best stone -builders in this district. - - • • • • • - -_Other walls not ancient._[42]—But there are other walls in these ruins -which are not believed to be ancient, and these have not been erected -by recent generations of Makalanga, but possibly by mediæval Makalanga, -or by Arabs, who had large influential colonies in this country, -especially at the various Zimbabwes of the successive Monomotapas. -The arguments against these walls being ancient are just as numerous -and equally as cogent as those just enumerated, but the consideration -of such walls is dealt with in detail in the description of the walls -themselves. - - • • • • • - -_Remains of native huts found in the ruins._—In many of the enclosures -of the ruins at Zimbabwe are to be found on the present surfaces, and -frequently, if the floor of the interior is not formed by the rock -formation, on two floors beneath it, the remains of at least three -entirely different descriptions of native huts. This is a feature -constantly met with in ancient ruins throughout Southern Rhodesia, -and in the early days of investigation these remains occasioned -considerable perplexity to the explorer. In some ruins only one type of -such structures is found, in others two classes of such dwellings, and -in others three if not four different types of structure, all the three -main types presenting different features in plan, construction, and -material. - -That these erections are not ancient is a matter of ocular -demonstration. - -(_a_) This is shown by their position on the clay floors laid over the -débris which has been filled into the enclosure to the depth of -from 3 ft. to 7 ft. above any ancient floor, hiding rounded entrances, -passages, and smaller sub-divisional walls, and burying, as at some -ruins, the ancient decorative patterns on the walls. The examination -of the material employed, and the class of its make so similar to the -remains of native huts in old deserted villages, all negative any -suggestion of antiquity. - -[Illustration: AN OLD WALL CROSSING OVER THE FOUNDATION OF A STILL -OLDER WALL, ZIMBABWE] - -[Illustration: BINDING OF THE SUMMITS OF TWO SEPARATE WALLS, ACROPOLIS -RUINS] - -(_b_) The stonework of the foundations is, as is shown later, of a -totally different character from that in undoubted ancient walls, and -is practically identical with the stone foundations of granaries still -to be seen in any of the villages, some of which are not twelve months -old. - -(_c_) The “finds” in these structures do not suggest ancient -occupation, but they include articles of superior native make and -design, some of which are either not now used by Makalanga or Barotse, -or are only met with in rare instances, but are claimed by local -natives as having been made and used by previous generations of their -people. For instance, double iron gongs, such as are plentifully found -north of the Zambesi and in the higher Congo districts, where they may -still be seen in actual use, pictures of which occur in works of travel -in Central Africa; or copper bangles of exceedingly fine wire, which -ornaments have fallen into desuetude and can be but seldom met with -now; or carved soapstone daha pipe-bowls, for the making of which the -Zimbabwe Makalanga, even at the time of the Occupation, were famous. - -(_d_) Several of these structures at Zimbabwe are claimed by the local -Makalanga and Barotse to have been built by their respective people of -previous generations. The Barotse lived on the Bentberg at Zimbabwe -up to fifty or sixty years ago. The remains of their old kraal can be -seen to-day. The circular shallow stone foundations of their huts, -the courses rising in “cat-steps,” the immense rounded clay rims -which supported the poles of the sides of their dwellings, are still -in evidence. These were erected on platforms made by filling in the -spaces between the inner sides of ancient enclosure walls and the slope -of the hill, a practice to be noticed on all the faces of Zimbabwe -Hill, except the eastern. - -The different types of such structures so found in the ruins may be -described as follows:— - -(1) The ordinary clay ruins of a present-day Makalanga hut, with clay -floors, butt-ends of side poles still in position, clay ruins on floor -marking off the fire-place, the stand for pots, the higher floor for -sleeping-place of occupants and the lower floor for goats. These are -found on the present surface or immediately under black leaf mould -soil, and resemble huts built in local kraals, only they are neater, -of better make, and of slightly superior quality of clay. The articles -found here are similar to those belonging to present Makalanga. - -(2) The foundations of huts with large rims of clay with rounded -edges on both sides, the diameter being some 9 ft. to 12 ft., and the -rims 16 in. in length and about the same width, the poles being fixed -along the centres of the rims. The material in the floor and in the -rim is of a superior quality of clay, which builders state it would -be misleading to describe as cement. Under the clay floors, which are -about 3 in. thick, are platforms of stones laid flatwise in three or -four courses, the outer faces of the courses receding from 1 in. to 3 -in. behind the faces of the courses below. Sometimes the stonework is -laid upon a bed of clay. This class of hut is found upon a lower level -than the undoubted Makalanga dwelling. In the Eastern Temple this type -of remains was uncovered at a depth of 3 ft. below the surface, and -there were no less than two clay floors, each with a layer of ashes, -and two granite cement floors below it. These can be seen in the trench -made alongside the stone foundation. Glass beads of old make, copper -spearheads, and thick copper bangles, beaten copper and copper tacks -were among the principal finds discovered in this type of building. -In and near such remains were found the four double iron gongs (May, -1902-March, 1903), piles of animal bones split open in ordinary Kafir -style for marrow, broken pottery, and quantities of ashes. - -(3) On still lower levels were found the floors and lower portions of -the sides of huts made of a red-coloured cement without poles fixed in -the cement sides. This is not ordinary daga. The inside faces of the -walls, as well as the floors which are beautifully smooth, have been -baked with fire, and fragments will ring almost like metal, portions -having become white with the heat. This cement has in most instances -been faced with a thin yellow glaze. On the floors are quantities of -small rims very neatly bevelled, with three or four parallel faces on -the top, the ends of the rims being rounded off. The bevelled rims -are from 1½ in. to 4 in. wide. The roofs of these buildings were -supported by poles inserted in the cement floors outside the huts at -the distance in many instances of 1 ft. The posts round the outside of -the huts were from 1 ft. 6 in. to 2 ft. 4 in. apart, and, judging by -their butt-ends, which have been preserved by the cement, were made of -hard woods, including mahobohobo, which is plentiful at Zimbabwe. The -best examples of these huts, of which some score can be seen, are in -No. 1 Enclosure in the Elliptical Temple, in the North-West Enclosure, -Acropolis, and on the cleared section of floor in the Western Temple. -These huts stand on cement platforms without stone foundations, and the -platforms are about 1 ft. high, and the top edges are neatly bevelled. -In two of these remains at Zimbabwe have been found gold dust, iron -spring pincers with flux on the top, pottery, gold scorifiers, and the -crudely-shaped soapstone moulds. - -Old pioneers assert that these buildings are of Makalanga construction. -The Makalangas themselves claim these as having been built by their -people in a very remote past. Similar buildings, but without traces -of gold-smelting, are known to have been built by the Makalanga in -different parts of Southern Mashonaland. - -Mr. Alfred Drew, Native Commissioner for Victoria district, who -arrived in this country in 1890, and is a recognised authority on old -Makalanga buildings, expresses his entire agreement with the above -descriptions of old native clay huts, also with the conclusions arrived -at concerning them. - -(4) There is another class of native hut which is not very frequently -found in Southern Rhodesia, but is commonly met with in Basutoland -and Swaziland, and in other territories further south. At Zimbabwe -there are four such huts on the higher floors of filled-in ruins. This -class of hut is constructed of cement of a good quality and of great -thickness, with no poles to support the roof. It is circular in form, -and from its exterior sides are four, sometimes five, short radiating -walls of stones extending outward some 5 ft. or 6 ft. The walls are -about 4 ft. wide, and in height reach almost to the top of the cement -sides of the hut. The entrance usually has an immense cement buttress -on either side, while between each radiating wall, and at the base of -the side of the hut, runs a cement bevel rounded on its outer edge as -if to form a seat. This bevel is about 14 in. high and 16 in. wide. In -all weathers and at any time of day the occupiers could have sat in -some one of these partially open spaces between the radiating walls -sheltered from sun, rain, or wind. The remains of two such huts were -found in the Western Temple on the Acropolis, and one of the radiating -walls of one of them, which was more exposed and less ruined than the -other short walls, was fixed upon by Swan as an “altar.” This wall is B -wall, mentioned in the description of the Western Temple, which follows -in Chapter XV. - - • • • • • - -_Passages._—Every writer on Zimbabwe appears to have been greatly -struck with the number of passages both at the Elliptical Temple and -on the Acropolis, and particularly with their labyrinthine character. -During 1902–4 further passages were discovered and opened out, and -these had a total length of 2,130 ft. The total length of passages -opened out, or which can be clearly traced, now amounts to 5,202 ft. As -is shown later in this section, this by no means exhausts the tale of -passages to be found at Zimbabwe. - - _Elliptical Temple_:— - - Situation of Passages. Cleared. Traced. - Parallel Passage 193 ft. - Inner Parallel Passage 71 〃 - South Passage 73 〃 - *West Passage 30 〃 30 ft. - *South Entrance to No. 10 - Enclosure 14 〃 - - _Outside Elliptical Temple_:— - - Outer Parallel Passage 125 ft. - *North-East Passage (remainder - of length included in the - “Valley of Ruins” passages) 50 〃 - - _Acropolis or Hill Ruins_:— - - South-East Ancient Ascent 349 ft. 1260 ft. - Higher Parapet 78 〃 - Central Passage 103 〃 - *Sunken Passage, Eastern Temple - (traced further) 28 〃 - North Passage, Eastern Temple 23 〃 - *South Cave Passage 46 〃 - Covered Passage (cleared in 1902) 10½ 〃 - Parallel Passage 71 〃 20 ft. - *Cleft Rock Enclosure to foot of - Platform stairs 10 〃 - Winding Stairs 14 〃 - Upper Passage 28 ft. - East Passage 80 〃 - Buttress Passage 39 〃 - *South Passage 38 〃 - Pattern Passage (upper portion - cleared in 1902) 51 〃 - - _North-West Ascent_:— - - *Sunken Passage in Platform - Enclosure 72 ft. - Ditto through main wall 16 〃 - Ditto on Northern Parapet 28 〃 - *Ditto from Northern Parapet to - Visitors’ Part 223 〃 - *Ditto from Visitors’ Part to - Water Gate 150 〃 510 ft. - - _Minor Ruins_:— - - *Outspan Ruins 56 ft. - Ridge Ruins, Parallel Passage 246 〃 - *Ridge Ruins, other passages 25 〃 - No. 1 Ruins 142 〃 - - _Valley of Ruins_:— - - *North-East Passage 600 ft. - Passage referred to by Mr. Bent 300 〃 - *Posselt Ruins, Parallel Passage 65 ft. - *Philips Ruins 51 〃 - *Maund Ruins 24 〃 - *Mauch Ruins 99 〃 - *Renders Ruins 31 〃 - ————————— ————————— - Totals 2,752 ft. 3,620 ft. - - * These passages were discovered in 1902–4. - -In addition to these totals of lengths of passages cleared out or -traced, there are many other passages still buried in débris, the -outcrop of their side walls being seen here and there on the surface -near several ruins. Many, of course, must be completely buried under -the veld, for some were lately discovered at least 3 ft. below the -surface, with native paths crossing them in all directions, while it -is quite reasonable to suppose that with the great area of ruins yet -unexplored very many more passages will yet be found, especially when -it is recollected that the discovery of one buried passage has most -frequently led to the discovery of several side passages. - -Traces were found of two other passages leading from the base to the -summit of the Acropolis Hill, and these remain unexplored, and each -would be fully 900 ft. in length, while traces of several lines of -passages are to be seen encircling at various heights the south, west, -and north faces of the Acropolis Hill. These also at present remain -unexplored. - -There are many points of interest concerning these passages:— - -(_a_) Passages were evidently constructed as part of the plan of the -fortifications, but in some instances only as means of communication -between certain buildings within the fortified area and for securing -privacy. In the one class of passage buttresses and traverses are -repeated with a marvellous redundancy; in the other class of passage -not a single buttress or traverse is to be found. - -(_b_) In passages leading from main ruins to exterior buildings the -walls of the passage nearer the main ruins are better built, and the -steps and floors are better constructed in the portions nearer the -main ruins than are those of the more distant portions of the passage. -So imperceptibly do the better-built portions merge into the less -superior class of wall that it is extremely difficult to ascertain the -exact point where the change in the quality of the construction takes -place, though the difference in the class of building at one end of -the passage and that of the other is most obvious. But though this -difference in the construction of the passage walls is so apparent, -there is no suggestion that portions were of a later period, for -they are built upon one plan, have one line of direction, serve as a -complete communication with one obvious and particular point, and one -length of the passage without the other would be purposeless, so far -as the intention of the builders may be gathered. With regard to the -passages ascending the Acropolis Hill, the completeness of the plan of -these passages is best seen from the summit of the hill or from the -summit of Makuma Kopje on the opposite side of the valley, from which -heights respectively a complete view of those passages in their entire -length is to be obtained. - -(_c_) Excepting some of the passages in the Elliptical Temple and a few -others on the Acropolis, all the passages at Zimbabwe are exceedingly -narrow and tortuous, many being only shoulder wide, while, owing to -their winding lengths, it is not possible to see many feet on ahead. -Such of these passages as have their floors below the levels of -adjoining enclosures have in many places their side walls bulged by -the weight of earth and débris behind into the passage-ways, and in -some such instances the side walls have collapsed and blocked up the -passages. - -(_d_) Almost every passage appears to have originally been paved with -blocks which were covered over with granite cement, but the cement, -except in a few instances, has decomposed and been washed away by -centuries of rains, though abundant traces of it remain. - -(_e_) Sunken passages built very much below the levels of the ancient -floors on either side of them are numerous. The best instances of -sunken passages are the North-East Passage between the Elliptical -Temple and the Valley of Ruins, also the North-West Ascent to the -Acropolis (upper portion), and the sunken passage in the Eastern -Temple on the Acropolis. - -(_f_) The walls of the ascents to the Acropolis as originally built -would have precluded any outsider from seeing, even if standing on -an adjoining kopje, the movements of people passing up and down the -ascents; and to-day as a native ascends these passages it is almost -impossible to see him till he reaches the summit, except as he is -passing gaps or walls which have become considerably dilapidated. Some -of the outer walls of these ascents are still 10 ft. in height. - -(_g_) The Elliptical Temple and the Western Temple on the Acropolis -have each long and narrow and deep parallel passages on the inside of -their main walls, and it is possible that the Pattern Passage served -for a similar purpose at the Eastern Temple. The Parallel Passage in -the Elliptical Temple communicated only between the North Entrance and -the Sacred Enclosure where are the conical towers, and this passage has -no communication with any other portion of the interior of the temple. -Several of the known writers on these ruins, including Bent, have -conjectured that these parallel passages in the temples were reserved -for the use of the priests. - -(_h_) Cliffs and large boulders have been frequently utilised to form -lengths of passages. Instances of this practice are to be seen on -the Acropolis in the Rock Passage of the South-East Ancient Ascent, -Buttress Passage, North Passage, and elsewhere. In some instances the -walls are made to go out of their line so as to include neighbouring -boulders, the sole object, so it would appear, being to deprive any -invading force of the vantage offered by the height of the boulders for -an attack to be made on the passage. - -(_i_) There are no evidences that any of the passages, except as stated -later, were ever roofed. Possibly the winding stairs and the sunken -passage in the Eastern Temple were originally covered over, as a great -quantity of long, flat slate beams were found on their floors. It is -believed that a single wall once crossed over the sunken passage in -Platform Enclosure at about 15 ft. from its upper end, for when this -passage was opened in 1902 slate beams were found at this spot, but at -no other point in the passage. The passage through the main west wall -of the Western Temple, which was blocked up by a Makalanga-built wall, -of course, was covered over by the main wall, while the Covered Passage -in the same temple remains intact as originally built. Moreover, the -widths of many of the passages though narrow on their floors are -wide at the summits of their side walls, and their irregular form -precludes suggestion of any roofing having been placed over them, some -being doubly as wide as the longest of the slate and granite beams -found, beside which the general absence of long slate and granite -beams on the floors of the passages would seem to further negative -any such conjecture. The West Passage leading to the South Cave was -not artificially roofed over, but the outer wall was raised up to the -height of the boulder which overhangs the passage. - - • • • • • - -_Entrances and buttresses._—When in 1891 Bent approached Zimbabwe -through North Bechuanaland, Gwanda, Tuli, and Belingwe, he passed -through the centre of that area in which the earliest of the many -ancient ruins of Rhodesia are located. All the ruins he described or -mentioned had rounded ends of walls and rounded buttresses, all angular -features being conspicuous by their absence. This fact appeared to -him so striking that he was constrained, after comparing these ruins -with Zimbabwe, to believe that such rounded features belonged to the -earliest period of Zimbabwe architecture. Fully a score of competent -writers on our ruins, whose valuable and trustworthy contributions, -based on personal examination of the same area, have been welcomed by -the leading scientific associations of Great Britain and Germany, are -also emphatic as to the rounded entrances and buttresses being one -of the chief distinctive features of the earliest Zimbabwes. This is -further demonstrated in the detailed descriptions of almost one hundred -ruins within the same area which are given in _The Ancient Ruins of -Rhodesia_, in the great majority of which ruins angular features, -except in reconstructions of a later period, are altogether absent. - -[Illustration: South Entrance N^o. 7 ENCLOSURE Elliptical Temple - -W. _Divisional Walls_ B. _Buttresses_ s.s. _Steps_] - -But the Great Zimbabwe being the finest type of that early class of -ancient building, it may be interesting to know that Bent’s conclusion -is thoroughly confirmed by these ruins. - - ENTRANCES - - Ruins. Rounded. Angular. - Elliptical Temple 23 1 - (One other entrance is partly - rounded and partly angular.) - Acropolis 31 4 - (One of the angular entrances is - of obviously later construction.) - No. 1 Ruins 10 1 - (One entrance is partly rounded - and partly angular.) - Valley Ruins 33 4 - - BUTTRESSES - - Ruins. Rounded. Angular. - Elliptical Temple 24 Nil. - (Two buttresses are partly angular - and partly rounded) - Acropolis 19 3 - No. 1 Ruins 8 Nil. - Valley Ruins * * - - * All rounded except three as so far discovered. - -All ends of walls which are still intact are rounded, there being only -a few examples so far discovered of angular-ended walls. - -[Illustration: North Entrance N^o. 7 ENCLOSURE Elliptical Temple - -W. _Divisional Walls_ B. _Buttresses_ s.s _Steps_ P. _Portcullis -Grooves_] - -The above figures show conclusively that these rounded features, -excluding the ends of walls which are almost always rounded, are in a -far greater proportion than 146 to 13 which are angular, and at least -three of the latter, if not others, for reasons explained elsewhere, -can be shown to have been erected at a much later period, one being -built upon a floor of common Makalanga daga, and another débris -containing ordinary Kafir articles of no very great age. - -All the entrances in the main outer walls, save one, are rounded, the -few angular entrances being found, with two exceptions, in slighter -walls, mainly divisional, some of which were erected later possibly to -suit the immediate convenience of later occupiers, for divisional walls -had been removed, reconstructed, or entirely fresh ones erected in new -directions in almost every ruin, and in some instances the foundations -of the later walls cross at right or oblique angles over the reduced -summits of older divisional walls. - -Walls of the earliest period widen out as they near entrances. This -feature is not present in plumb and angular walls of later construction. - -There is no evidence whatever in the rounded entrances that they were -ever covered over, but in two angular entrances on the Acropolis the -butts of the broken slate lintels still remain in the side walls. - -Although there are not sufficient proofs to enable one to definitely -determine whether the rounded entrances as a rule were once covered -over, some of the evidences to negative the covering in of rounded -entrances may be noted:— - -(_a_) Had such entrances been roofed in, the collapse of the lintels -must have brought down far more of the walls than have fallen. - -(_b_) The courses of the blocks at the necessary height above the floor -of the entrances on either side do not always correspond. - -(_c_) The top courses near the summit of the walls on either side -of the entrances show distinct signs of curving inwards towards the -entrances. This is particularly noticed on the east side of the -north-west entrance to the Elliptical Temple. - -(_d_) No splinters of slate or granite beams which could have been used -as roofing were found in any of the very many rounded entrances. - -(_e_) Two intact rounded entrances, one open up to the summit on either -side to a height of 19 ft., one entrance being at the east end of -Pattern Passage on the Acropolis. - -No main entrance has buttresses on either hand on the outer side, -possibly because these would have provided any attacking party with -excellent shelter. All buttresses of such entrances are on the inside. -Divisional entrances which have buttresses have them on the inside only. - -The entrances through a wall of the earlier period are carried over -the common foundation in the opening forming the steps, which were -evidently constructed before the side walls were erected. These steps -are large, broad, and high, and where intact look most imposing. Such -entrances resemble stiles, as they are much higher than the levels of -the floors on either side. - -The entrances through an angular wall of a later period have steps -which are not part of either side walls, but were built in after the -entrance passage had been constructed, and these show poor workmanship -and are very shallow, and recede only two to four inches. As the levels -of the enclosures on either side have filled in over the original -floors, such “cat-steps” have in some instances been built over the -original large steps for the purpose of raising the floor of the -entrances, seeing that the enclosures on either side had been filled in -some feet above their original levels. - -Directly opposite the main entrance of the “Outspan Ruins” is a large -circular buttress, as if it were intended to divide any attacking party -into small numbers. - - • • • • • - -_Cause of dilapidation to entrance buttresses._—The entrance buttresses -with portcullis grooves are in most instances comparatively small, some -projecting only two to three feet towards the interior of the building, -and these are built up against main and divisional walls, and are in -point of construction altogether independent erections, there being no -dovetailing or binding between the buttresses and the walls. - -In some of the entrances the side lintels of slate, granite, and -unworked soapstone beams have been found built into the portcullis -grooves. In _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_ it was noticed that at -several of the ruins therein mentioned stone side lintels were found -_in situ_. The stone lintel posts _in situ_ at Zimbabwe had not then -been discovered. The tallest of such stone lintels at Zimbabwe is 8 ft. -above the ground. The buttresses appear to have been built after the -stone posts had been erected, for the walls at the sides of the lintel -follow the irregularities of the side faces of the beams. - -The great destruction which has occurred to these structures might -possibly be accounted for by (1) the weight of the stone lintel on -getting off the perpendicular, which would lever down the buttress into -which it was built; (2) the foundations of buttresses are not so deep -as those of the main wall up against which they were built; (3) when -some later people, possibly natives, deliberately built up and blocked -the entrances they might have used the blocks of these buttresses -for their building material; (4) the passage-way between each pair -of buttresses being so very narrow, damage could easily have been -wrought by ordinary traffic; and (5) the main walls are much higher -than the summits of the buttresses, and the walls on either side of the -entrances being always more dilapidated on the summits, the falling of -huge masses of masonry on to the buttresses immediately below might -have effected their destruction. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII - - NOTES ON ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE AT GREAT ZIMBABWE - - (_Continued_) - - Drains—Battering of Walls—Monoliths—Soapstone Monoliths and - Beams—Granite and Slate Beams—Cement dadoes—Built-up - Crevices—Holes in Walls other than Drains—Blind Steps - and Platforms—Ancient Walls at a Distance from Main - Walls—Cement—Caves and Rock Holes. - - - DRAINS IN ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - -_Drains through main walls_:— - -1. At (352 ft.);[43] from Parallel Passage to exterior of temple; has -a decided fall outwards; curves round at half through towards south; -covered with large slabs; inner hole 1 in. below granite cement floor -of passage, which slopes downwards from either side towards hole; -interior opening 14 in. high, 9 in. wide; exterior opening, 12 in. -high, 6 in. wide. - -Between Nos. 1 and 2 drains the cement floor rises a few inches to a -raised step-barrier 4 in. high, 3 ft. 10 in. broad, from which the -flooring slopes down to No. 2 drain, thus forming catchment areas for -each drain to clear off rain-water, so that each drain only had such an -area to clear which its capacity would allow. - -2. At (391 ft.); from Parallel Passage to exterior of temple; decided -fall outwards; curves towards north-east; covered with large slabs; -cement floor of passage level with floor of drain; interior opening 11 -in. high, 11 in. wide; exterior opening 17 in. high, 11 in. wide. - -[Facing this drain and on the west side of the passage is the drain -(No. 7) from No. 14 Enclosure, described later.] - -3. At (442 ft.); from Parallel Passage to Outer Parallel Passage; -fairly straight; steep fall outwards; covered with large slabs; -interior opening 12 in. high, 8 in. wide; exterior opening 15 in. high, -6 in. wide. [It was from this drain that fragments of cement lining -were taken.] - -4. At (476 ft.); from Parallel Passage to Outer Parallel Passage; -partially obstructed at half-way through by stones and dirt; very -decided fall outwards; curves slightly towards east; covered with large -slabs; interior opening 11 in. high, 7 in. wide; exterior opening 10 -in. high, 10 in. wide. - -5. At (515 ft.); from Parallel Passage to Outer Parallel Passage; -interior opening buried in débris supporting wall threatening to -collapse; exterior opening 10 in. high, 6 in. wide; covered with large -slabs; exterior portion shows decided fall outwards; clear for 8 ft., -probably further. - -6. At (549 ft.); from No. 2 Enclosure to exterior of temple; clear for -13 ft. from interior; exterior opening buried under very old Makalanga -clay floor; covered with large slabs; interior opening 11 in. high, 8 -in. wide; shows a fall outwards. - -[Drains Nos. 1–6 pass through main wall at points where it is from 13 -ft. 6 in. to 16 ft. wide.] - -_Drains through divisional walls_:— - -7. From No. 14 Enclosure to Parallel Passage facing drain 2 at (391 -ft.); exterior opening 12 in. high, 7 in. wide; shows outward fall; -covered with large slabs; passes through wall 6 ft. wide at drain -level; interior end blocked up. - -8. From No. 11 Enclosure to Sacred Enclosure (east); on north side of -small conical tower; penetrated for 6 ft., at which point it is blocked -up; rises sharply inside; exterior opening 9 in. high, 6 in. wide; -interior opening blocked up and covered over. - -9. At north end of South Passage; from South Passage to Parallel -Passage; decided fall outwards; covered with large slabs; clear for -5 ft.; interior opening 10 in. high, 8 in. wide; blocked up at outer -opening by débris supporting dilapidated wall. - -[Pieces of granite cement lining also found here in 1892 and 1902.] - -10. From No. 1 to No. 3 Enclosures; at south corner of No. 3; exterior -opening 11 in. high and 7 in. wide; shows fall outwards; covered with -slabs; curves towards south; clear for 6 ft. 6 in.; interior opening -covered by clay floor of Makalanga hut. - -11. From No. 15 Enclosure to Inner Parallel Passage; fall outwards; -exterior opening 12 in. high, 8 in. wide; interior opening blocked up -and covered over by soil and wall débris; clear for 5 ft. - -_Drains at entrances_:— - -12. Through south entrance to South Passage; discovered by Sir John -Willoughby; under centre of steps; outlet on lower face of steps. - -13. Under step and parallel with wall at entrance to Sacred Enclosure -(west) from No. 9 Enclosure; two similar drains on Acropolis. - -_Drains through an outer wall_:— - -14. On north-west side of southern end of North-East Passage; through -base of wall 4 ft. 6 in. wide; eastern exterior opening 8 in. high, 9 -in. wide; covered with lintels; clear for 3 ft.; extended eastwards as -an open drain 8 in. wide towards foot of steps of north entrance to the -temple. - -15. Through wall dividing No. 10 Enclosure from Platform Area. This has -a fall eastwards, and is in a good state of preservation. - -[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF A DRAIN, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: MONOLITHS ON THE PLATFORM, ACROPOLIS - -(_Also see p. 315_)] - - - DRAINS AT ACROPOLIS RUINS - -16. In Western Temple, in divisional wall “A” (see plan and -description); drain-hole passes 5 ft. from north to south; northern -opening 9 in. high, 11 in. wide; impossible to state the fall owing to -stones and dirt inside; fragments of cement lining were found here in -1891, 1892, and 1902. [The interior of this temple was on the north -side of wall “A,” as well as on the south side of wall “D,” much higher -than between these two walls, which form a small amphitheatre (Bent) -within and at the west end of the larger amphitheatre formed by the -main walls of the temple. This is obvious to anyone examining the -interior. Practical builders have recently stated their belief that -when the lower and western side of this smaller amphitheatre is cleared -of débris drains will be found at the base of the main west wall, -which, so far as discoveries have been made, is the widest ancient -wall in Rhodesia. The whole interior of the temple, and the formation -rock over which, but not upon which, it is built, slant at all points -downwards to the foot of the inner face of the main wall.] - -17. On west side of Upper Passage and leading from _Little Enclosure_; -exterior opening 9 in. high, 6 in. wide; clear for 3 ft. inwards; -interior opening covered with débris. - -18. East corner of South Enclosure A; through south wall; 4 ft. long; -fall outwards; covered with large slabs; exterior opening 12 in. high, -8 in. wide; interior opening dilapidated. - -19. East entrance of Eastern Temple leading from temple to Gold Furnace -Enclosure; under pavement of entrance; still 5 in. deep. - - - DRAINS IN VALLEY OF RUINS - -20. In B section of Posselt Ruins in a divisional wall at extreme -north-west end of ruins. - -21. In B section of Posselt Ruins in a divisional wall on north side 4 -ft. wide. - -22. In B section of Posselt Ruins in main south wall. - -23. In Philips Ruins through a substantial wall east of large curved -wall. - -24. In Philips Ruins through wall on east side of previous drain. - -25. In Mauch Ruins in divisional wall. - -26. In Mauch Ruins in east main wall. - -27. In Mauch Ruins in east wall of the outer enclosure. - - • • • • • - -_The battering of walls._—The backward incline of both faces of walls -from their bases to summits is a general characteristic in ancient -architecture at Zimbabwe, and in all other ruins which belong to the -earliest known type of ancient buildings in this country. This feature, -so far as examinations have been made, is conspicuous by its absence -from all buildings of the second or later period. So noticeable is -this feature in the main walls of the Elliptical Temple that visitors -viewing the walls from the interior constantly affirm their belief that -the walls have commenced to lean over towards the exterior, and when -viewing the exterior faces of the identical walls declare that the -walls are leaning inwards and must ultimately fall inside the building. -This is a mere optical delusion. - -The main walls, portions of which are believed to have stood some -3,500 years, are, if given the same conditions to which they have been -subjected in past times, quite likely to be standing at the end of -another millennium, if not longer, for the battering-back is a most -important element of their massive strength, and has proved to be the -main factor in securing their durability. Of course, some main walls -in certain places show signs of bulging out and of damage caused by -earth movements, possibly earthquakes, also by lightning, the sinking -of foundations by water or damp, or growth of trees within their -open dry masonry during the long period since their erection. Some -faces of the walls show a complete swagging from end to end of their -lengths, and yet the batter-back has preserved the walls practically -intact throughout with each block occupying its original relative -position. The appearance of such walls strongly suggests the effects of -earthquake, and while these earth-movements would destroy a plumb wall, -a wall with a severe batter-back, such as is seen in all the older -walls at Zimbabwe, would on this account be comparatively safe from -such effects. - -In some instances the battering is very severe and exceeds that of -1 ft. in 6 ft., and the native labourers can scale such with ease. -Looking at the rounded extremities of any of the most ancient walls, -one notices that their sides resemble the lines of a lighthouse as -popularly conceived, in many instances the batter-back being more -severe near the base and near the summit, and many of such rounded ends -of walls where still perfect show very graceful lines of battering. So -carefully is the batter-back worked out in the courses that looking up -or down the face of the wall one can scarcely see a quarter of an inch -of face of protruding block out of the line of the battering. - -To secure the batter of the walls the blocks are not slanted downwards -at their inner side, but are laid on a true dead level reaching from -face to face of the wall on either side, and in their outer courses -their outside edges are placed back from the outer course below. So -slightly do these courses recede one above another that in the height -of only a few courses it would be almost impossible to detect the -presence of any battering, while it is very decidedly noticeable in a -height of some few feet. - -Bent’s estimate of the extent of the battering of walls at Zimbabwe, -namely, 1 ft. in 6 ft., is fairly exact with regard to many of the -walls, but excessive with regard to others, such as the main walls of -the Elliptical Temple, while for many walls it is perfectly correct. -The battering in most instances being more perceptible near base and -summit than on the intermediate face of the wall, and the summits in -many cases having disappeared, the batter-back, as ascertained by -plumb lines, has consequently been considerably reduced. Where the -original summits are still practically intact, and where there have -been no bulging out of the faces of the walls, and the top courses on -the edges do not lean outwards as they frequently do, on account of -creeper and tree growths, the 1 ft. in 6 ft. is frequently approached, -for instance, south wall _Western Temple_, 4 ft. 8 in. in 31 ft.; -_Pattern Passage_, 2 ft. in 13 ft. In low walls 1 ft. in 6 ft. is very -frequently reached. - -The main walls of the Elliptical Temple, as shown in the _Table of -Battering_ (see _Elliptical Temple, Main Wall_, Chapter IX.), are much -less than 1 ft. in 6 ft., a fair average for inside faces being 1 ft. -in 11 ft., but at some points it is only 1 ft. in 15 ft., and for -outside faces 1 ft. in 10 ft. and 1 ft. in 8 ft. - -(For the battering of the _Conical Towers_, see descriptions of those -structures.) - - • • • • • - -_Monoliths._—In most of the ruins of both major and minor importance -at Zimbabwe, numerous beams of slate and granite, varying from 4 ft. -to 14 ft. in length, have been found, some of the slate beams showing -signs of having been treated with tools. It has been the custom of -many writers to call these beams “monoliths.” In the greater number -of instances these beams can be shown never to have been employed as -monoliths. So far, at Zimbabwe, authenticated monoliths have been -discovered only at the Elliptical Temple, and the Eastern and Western -Temples of the Acropolis and Philips Ruins. Many of the beams found -in these buildings are not and never were employed as monoliths, and -the greatest possible care has to be taken in discriminating between -monoliths and ordinary beams. - -Monoliths have their bases marked and worn by the stones in the sides -of the holes on the summits of the walls in which they now stand or -once stood, as if they had later become loose and had moved or even -oscillated constantly while still in a fairly upright position. The -marking of such as have fallen shows that they were made by rubbing -against the edges of the enclosing blocks when the monoliths were in a -perpendicular position, while some of the jagged notches on the bases -must have been made when the monoliths were in a slanting position. -The stumps of beams left in the side walls of entrances and passages -which were once covered by slate and granite lintels, and across which -the upper portions of the walls were carried, do not show the same -markings; in fact, such ends of slate and granite lintels are not found -to be worn by the friction caused by contact with the edges of blocks, -and besides, these lack all evidence of having occupied a perpendicular -position, or of having been exposed to the weather. Monoliths are -decomposed and weather-worn on all faces, but there is generally more -lichen on their south faces. - -Further, the bases of monoliths, plain or carved, especially those -of soapstone and slate, are found to have their lowest extremities -water-worn into smooth faces or grooves at such points round their -faces where the bases did not come in contact with the enclosing -blocks, and this smoothing has obviously been caused by rain-water -running down the faces of the monoliths to the lowest part of their -bases, till at last, especially those of slate, the bases which -were once of greater circumference have become worn and tapered. -The thickness of the wall and the depth to which the bases of the -monoliths were built into them would prevent the sun’s heat drying the -damp bases, and would so keep them moist for a long time after every -shower. This constant moisture has caused the bases to splinter while -the exposed portions of the monoliths remained practically intact. -This water-wearing and the splintering on account of damp are absent -in beams employed for any purpose in a horizontal position, and these -usually show unmistakable signs of having been very well preserved from -the effects of the weather, and the extremities of such beams do not -taper, neither have they become splintered, and are usually as wide as -the main portion of the beam. - -Undoubted monoliths of granite and slate have been found used by -Makalanga as building material for their walls, and also as posts -for cattle kraals. Also, in many cases, as posts for graves, and for -decoration of Makalanga walls. - - • • • • • - -_Soapstone monoliths and beams._—Monoliths of soapstone have only been -found in the three temples, but in greater profusion in the Eastern -Temple on the Acropolis, and at Philips Ruins. Here they were found by -their sections to have been of various diameters, but every one had -been shaped with tools, some being artistically, others only crudely, -decorated, but the majority were plain. Chevron pattern was evidently -the favourite design employed. The Makalanga are believed to have -used some of the broken sections of soapstone monoliths and beams for -carving their _I-daha_ pipe-bowls, in making which they are known to -have excelled. This would save them the necessity of transporting the -material to Zimbabwe from the soapstone formation, the nearest point of -which is twelve miles in a north-western direction. Natives to-day have -been seen taking away very small splinters of soapstone found in the -débris heaps. These they cut with a knife into any crude shape that may -be suggested to their passing fancy. The number of bases of soapstone -monoliths is far greater than the number of splintered or broken -sections found in the wall-débris heaps along the foot of the walls. - -Several sections of rounded soapstone beams were also found among the -blocks on the summit of the main wall of the Elliptical Temple, and -other sections were also discovered here in the débris at the foot -of either side of the main wall. These sections, though plain, are -beautifully finished, but being the lower portions above the bases, are -without pattern. Probably the higher portions were decorated, as the -decoration in several instances of soapstone beams discovered does not -extend low down on the monoliths. The radii of the sections found in -the Elliptical Temple varied considerably, while some had flat-worked -faces with narrow ends artificially rounded. - -The discovery in all three temples of so many bases and sections of -different sized soapstone monoliths suggests the question: Have the -present standing slate and granite monoliths been, at any rate in some -instances, erected at a later period to replace fallen or fractured -soapstone monoliths? - -(_a_) Splinters of undoubted soapstone monoliths, some carved with -geometrical patterns, have been found in large quantities in the lowest -strata of wall-débris at each of the three temples only; sometimes they -were found on the formation rock and below the wall débris, but at -the foot of all the faces of the walls on the summits of which are at -present only slate and unhewn granite are monoliths still more or less -complete and erect. - -(_b_) On the summits of walls on which are slate and granite monoliths -numerous small fragments of rounded lengths of soapstone, identical -with soapstone beams and some similarly carved, have been found. These -instances were frequently noticed in all the temples, May-November, -1902, but especially in the Elliptical Temple, where are now only -granite and slate monoliths. - -Bent deduced from the various succeeding styles of Zimbabwe -architecture that the ancient style of workmanship changed its form -some time between the period of the earliest builders and the later -ones, and this would explain why the original monoliths were of more -artistic form, with carvings and decorations. How far this has any -connection with the theory of the probable substitution, patent, at -any rate, in some instances, of plain and unhewn granite and slate -monoliths for the fallen and ornate soapstone monoliths, it might be -premature to enlarge upon at present, for, judging by the condition of -the oldest walls on which certain granite monoliths are fixed, some of -these monoliths sunk deep into the summits of the walls were obviously -erected when the walls were originally constructed. For instance, one -carved soapstone monolith was found built into a wall on the north side -of the Western Temple to a depth of 5 ft., while the original height of -the wall could not have been more than 8 ft. - -However, both ancient architecture and relics unquestionably prove that -between the earliest and the latest periods of ancient occupation there -was a marked falling off and decadence in the conception and erection -of both buildings and in the character of the articles found. - - • • • • • - -_Number of monoliths still more or less erect._—The number of monoliths -still erect, or which have fallen, is as follows, but the number may -be further increased as the débris at the bases of the temple walls is -examined:— - -At Elliptical Temple.—Nine granite monoliths still erect, nine fallen; -no slate monoliths erect, five fallen; two granite monoliths, one of -which is fractured, stand in No. 5 Enclosure. - -At Eastern Temple, Acropolis.—There are no soapstone monoliths now -standing, but a considerable number of sections of slate and soapstone -monoliths, including bases, were found in the débris. Mr. Posselt, who -resided at Zimbabwe before the Chartered Company took possession of -the country, states that in 1888 three soapstone beams, with birds -on their summits, were standing in the interior of the left-hand side -of the West Entrance, and one at the northern end of the summit of -the main east wall, on which is the dentelle pattern. The three beams -stood on a small raised platform, and as this temple was then used as a -cattle kraal, the cattle rubbed against them and eventually pushed over -the beams. - -At Western Temple, Acropolis.—There are twelve slate and four granite -monoliths still standing on the walls, and four slate monoliths, three -still intact, have been found in wall-débris. Originally those on the -south and west walls were exactly equi-distant. Bent found and removed -several sections of different soapstone monoliths, both decorated and -plain, but he found no soapstone bird in this temple. In 1891 the lower -portion of a soapstone bird was discovered and taken to Johannesburg, -and its whereabouts are at present unknown. In August, 1902, the head -and neck of this same bird were found, as also a length of the beam -upon which it stood, and this is beautifully carved with chevron -pattern. This beam originally stood on the summit of the north wall. - -All slate monoliths are plain, but many of those of slate have been -rounded with tools of which they bear the markings. - -Several monoliths have fallen since 1888. One immense granite beam -which occupied an upright position immediately north of _The Platform_ -in the Elliptical Temple has disappeared since 1891. A monolith in -the interior facing the _Western Entrance_ has fallen within the last -few years, while a tall granite beam at the same spot has broken off -just above the ground within the same period. Another tall granite -beam occupied the _Central Area_ in the temple, and this has also -disappeared within the last seven years.[44] Relic prospectors of the -nineties appear to have excavated round the spots occupied by monoliths -and caused their fall. - -The finest specimen of a bird on a soapstone beam yet discovered at -Zimbabwe was found by the author in _Philips Ruins_ in February, 1903. - - • • • • • - -_Slate and granite beams._—These are plentifully found in all the -enclosures. Sections and splinters of slate beams are found in -entrances which have portcullis grooves, one still standing in -position 8 ft. above the floor. Slate beams used as entrance posts in -portcullis grooves were erected before the building of the entrance, -as the enclosing blocks follow the irregularities of the beams. Wood -posts found in some portcullis grooves in poorer built walls are not -considered ancient, and their comparative modernity is testified to by -experienced builders who have very recently examined a collection of -such posts. Mopani hard wood and mahobohobo have not been used in all -such instances, some of the posts being of soft wood. Wooden posts have -not so far been found in well-built entrances. The posts outside the -clay huts of old Makalanga are older in appearance and condition than -the majority of the posts found in the poorer entrances, though they -very closely resemble one another in measurements and in the wood used. -In one instance the groove was too large for the wooden post which had -been wedged in with granite splinters, the granite being only slightly -weathered. - -Slate and granite beams were also employed for the bonds and ties of -walls, also for ties in sharply curved walls, also for supporting the -roofs over covered passages. - -The nearest point to the slate formation is seven miles in a -north-easterly direction. It is believed that the long granite beams -were brought from the Lumbo Rocks, one and three-quarter miles to the -south, where a great quantity of exactly similar shaped beams are to be -seen lying scattered round the high perpendicular column of granite, -the sides of which split off into the shape of the long monoliths found -on the Acropolis. - - • • • • • - -_Cement dadoes._—One of the discoveries made recently in clearing the -lower portions of interior faces of walls from débris, which appears to -have covered them for centuries, is that some portions of such walls -have been found to be covered with the remains of excellent granite -cement dadoes. This is particularly to be noticed on three walls of the -_Sacred Enclosure_, on the south wall of _No. 11 Enclosure_, and at the -_Little Enclosure_ and the _Upper Passage_ on the Acropolis, and in -other ruins where portions of this dado still remain. - -These dadoes extended to a height of 7 ft., the cement being found in -patches still intact and in the joints of the blocks to this height, -the courses above this height being entirely free from traces of cement. - -In passages and narrow places great quantities of this cement lay on -the original floors along the bottoms of the walls on either side, some -fragments showing on their backs the ribbed markings of the courses -up against which the cement had been pressed, also bevelled edges, as -if from the top and ends of such dadoes. This was particularly the -experience on clearing out the _Parallel Passage_ in the Elliptical -Temple. It is possible that these dadoes had once facings of white -soapstone clay, beautifully smoothed, for this was found on some -fragments of such cement dadoes, and the facing, when cut with a knife, -powdered exactly as soapstone does. - -It can be noticed by anyone that the lower portions of the walls which -once had dadoes have their block faces somewhat roughly built as -compared with the upper portions of the walls. This appears to suggest -that the original builders, in erecting the wall, had calculated upon -certain portions of the faces being covered with dadoes. These rougher -surfaces would provide a better hold for the cement than would the -smoother faces of the walls above. - -The cavities in the dry masonry of the main walls of the Elliptical -Temple contain cooled air even at noontide, and this rushes out from -between the courses with such a force as to make it impossible to light -a match close to them, while it is a very easy matter to carry on a -conversation through a wall 15 ft. thick and 32 ft. high. - -To the original builders who, as is shown elsewhere, thoroughly -understood and appreciated the art of sanitation, it is quite probable -that these dadoes were considered necessary, especially as these dry -masonry walls are the homes of snakes, lizards, and other unpleasant -reptiles and creatures which probably were more abundant here three -thousand years ago when, as competent scientists affirm, the climate -was more humid. Whether for the exclusion of sound, for the securing -of privacy, for the protection of their dwellings from reptiles, or to -avoid the tearing by rough granite blocks in very narrow passages of -such garments as they might have worn, or for the purpose of artistic -effect—and these ancients practised several fine arts—the fact has -recently been revealed that at any rate some of the ancient walls were -once covered with these cement dadoes.[45] - - • • • • • - -_Built-up crevices._—On the Acropolis Hill cliffs and boulders form -such prominent features that these have often been employed as sides -of enclosures. The ancients were in many instances at great pains to -build up crevices and fissures in rocks, especially where these are in -or near the enclosures. Even small crevices only a foot or so wide, -and penetrating into the face of the cliffs and rocks for but two -or three feet, the front being the only part giving access to such -fissures, are carefully built up flush with the face of the rock. Some -large perpendicular fissures in the cliffs have been so built up to an -immense height. One fissure on the south side of the Rock Holes Path -has been built up for 40 ft. above the ground. This fissure is from 1 -ft. to 3 ft. wide. The effect caused by this column of blocks running -up the face of the cliff is very strange. Some fissures are so narrow -that very small blocks have been used. From some of such fissures the -built-up courses have fallen away, leaving a few courses, here and -there at different heights wedged in between the sides of the fissures, -and occasionally one sees a single block wedged into a fissure at -an immense height above any ruin. This building-up of crevices and -fissures is to be found almost over the whole face of the hill where no -ruins are now to be seen. If two boulders are near together, it may be -taken as almost a moral certainty that on examining the boulders they -will be found to be connected with a wall, even if the space be only a -foot or two wide. - -In a similar manner the holes under overhanging boulders have been -neatly built up so as to effectually hide the hole. The natives have in -two or three instances removed sufficient of the blocks to enable them -to pass a corpse through, after which, with their peculiar style of -building—column form—they have filled up the gaps with walling. - - • • • • • - -_Holes in walls other than drains._—This peculiar feature of ancient -architecture is especially prominent at the Acropolis, also in East -Ruins, and in almost all the ruins in the Valley of Ruins. There -are holes, generally square, in the lower parts of the walls at two -or three feet above any ancient floor. They are found only on the -inside faces of walls, not one as yet having been discovered on the -outer face. That they are intentionally made is a matter of ocular -demonstration, for many have lintels either of large granite slabs or -of slate beams. The blocks of the side framings are all built flush -with each other. Their peculiarity is that they do not extend back -into the wall for more than the length of a block, in one case of two -blocks, and the internal packing blocks in the wall are seen inside. -One such recess on the Acropolis shows traces of having once been lined -with granite cement. The bottom portion of a similar recess in Upper -Passage also has remains of cement lining. The largest recess is to be -seen on the west side of a divisional wall in East Ruins. This is 3 ft. -high and 1 ft. 10 in. wide. No such recess has so far been discovered -in the Elliptical Temple, but at least fifty have been found elsewhere -among the ruins. - - • • • • • - -_Blind steps and platforms._—In several enclosures in the principal -ruins at Zimbabwe, but mainly at the Elliptical Temple, and in the -angles formed by the meeting of side walls of the enclosures, are to -be seen small raised platforms approached by two or three steps. These -steps could not have led to higher positions than the small platforms, -that is, they could not have been intended for mounting to the summit -of the wall, for the bottom steps are at far too short a distance from -the walls in comparison with their heights, besides which, the steps -and platforms are perfect in themselves, and their summits, judging by -the condition of the cement floor, terminated as is seen to-day. Nor -are there any signs on the faces of the walls above such platforms of -any steps, or that the blocks in the angles of the walls were at any -time protected from the weather by any higher structure. - -These blind steps surmounted by miniature platforms are made of blocks -thickly covered with granite cement similar to that found on the lowest -floors of the temple—the steps being large and deep and boldly rounded -off. The shape of these erections reminds one of the steps and raised -platforms which are frequently seen in stableyards at home, and were -once very generally used as mounting blocks. - -Bent, unfortunately, discovered only one of these platforms, and this -was the one on the north side of the Sacred Enclosure (west), and when -he saw it the platform was covered with débris, evidently débris, -judging by its age, put there by Dr. Mauch, who had been exploring -in this portion of the enclosure. This débris was foreign to this -particular spot and had evidently been removed from nearer the Conical -Tower. Bent therefore conjectured that these blind steps once led to -the summit of the south wall of The Platform. The height of the wall -here, 12 ft., could not have been surmounted by these steps, for if -carried upwards with the same class of step as below, they would have -failed to reach half-way up the wall. - -These erections might have served a similar purpose for the enclosures -in which they were erected, as did the large Platform immediately -in front of the Conical Tower for the whole of the Temple. The best -examples are in the north-east corner of No. 12 Enclosure, the south -corner of No. 7 Enclosure, both in the Elliptical Temple, and in the -south-east corner of the Western Temple and in the north, east, and -west angles of the Eastern Temple, both on the Acropolis. Possibly the -platform and steps in the South Passage of the Elliptical Temple were -used for a similar purpose, for this latter structure, though not built -into any angle of walls, is of exactly similar construction to the -others. - - • • • • • - -_Ancient walls at a distance from any main ruins are of a less -superior construction._—There is another class of building found in -walls erected at a distance from any main ruins, and these, though -constructed in a somewhat rougher form, are otherwise all built upon -the principles of the First Period of Zimbabwe architecture. These -walls can be clearly shown to have formed part of the original purpose, -plan, and construction as the main ruins, and prove that the original -ancient builders, while devoting their best skill to the temples and -residential portions of the building, were satisfied with a somewhat -inferior quality of workmanship for their more distant walls, and for -such of their outlying buildings as were used for some purpose, judging -by the finds, other than those of workshop or residence, most probably -as forts, workshops, stores for grain, or as the housing places of -slaves. - -The close connection between the well-built walls of the main ruins -and these outlying walls and buildings is, in many instances, easy to -establish, and this may be shown as follows:— - -1. The sole difference between the construction of the main ruins and -the outlying buildings lies in the quality of workmanship and material, -these outlying walls showing all other features of first-period -architecture to the exclusion of any feature of the second or later -periods of construction. - -2. Connecting passages between the inner portions of main ruins and -the outlying buildings are well built in and near the main ruins, but -are excellently constructed as distance is reached, though the line of -foundations throughout, as also the cement flooring, are one and the -same. - -3. Undoubted ancient floors are laid up to and against such walls. - -4. Relics of prehistoric character, similar to those discovered within -any of the main ruins, have been found beyond main walls in connecting -passages and in the more distant ruins. - -These evidences as to the early period during which some of the more -distant walls were erected are also found in other large ruins of -Southern Rhodesia, but at Zimbabwe, where the Acropolis affords such -a commanding view of the lines of walls of the outer ruins and of the -directions of recently unburied passages of great length, and of the -sweep of the walls connecting main ruins with outlying buildings, the -original purpose of many of the walls and minor ruins appears to be -very manifest. - -In these outer walls the blocks are of far greater size, their shape -is frequently irregular, and unhewn stones are employed, but their -faces are even on either side and the internal parts are neatly filled -in with stones. All these walls have the usual Zimbabwe batter-back, -have rounded entrances, and the steps are not built in between the side -walls, but are formed by the courses of the foundations. Plumb walls -and angular entrances are very rarely met with. - - • • • • • - -_Cement._—The original builders of the Zimbabwe ruins, as well as -those of later ancient periods, can be seen to have shown a peculiar -partiality for the employment of cements for all constructive work save -that of building the walls, which are all, without exception, of dry -masonry. Evidently the ancients, judging by the immense quantity of -cement work throughout the ruins, much of which is still in splendid -condition, deliberately avoided the use of cement in the construction -of the walls. Probably in this respect, and in the employment of blocks -of a certain size, they were but following the methods of building to -which they were accustomed before their arrival in this country. - -(1) The cement work of the oldest periods has been pronounced by -practical builders to have been made of crushed fragments of decomposed -granite mixed with a large proportion of lime, the latter being found -in Suku Glen (see _Suku Glen_) in extensive areas. This cement is -exceedingly hard, and has a glaze on the outer surface which, once -broken, has caused the internal body of cement to rapidly decompose -into yellow soil. Thus on the faces of steps, dadoes, and all -perpendicular work, the cement is more intact, while on flat surfaces -where rain-water could not be carried away owing to the stopping up of -drains the cement floors are in many instances considerably ruined. -Tree roots are rarely found to have penetrated any cement floor which -was in a whole condition, and where a root has so penetrated the -cement, the root, acting as a conductor of water, has caused all the -cement along the line of root to become decomposed. All the roots of -trees which have recently been removed from above cement floors are -flat, while some of them assume the shape of the structure that was -underneath. In one instance the roots of an immense fig tree, which was -thought to be over one hundred years old, had wound round and round a -circular cement platform which they had failed to penetrate. - -This class of cement has been very extensively used by the older -occupiers for (_a_) flooring, (_b_) dadoes, (_c_) covering steps and -platforms, (_d_) construction of steps and platforms made entirely of -cement, (_e_) raised rims for dividing floors into separate catchment -areas, so confining rain-water over certain areas to particular drains, -(_f_) foundations of walls, (_g_) for short, low divisional walls made -entirely of cement. - -(2) There is another class of granite cement which closely resembles -the first-mentioned, and this is found on the higher levels. It is -also yellow, but in it occur pieces of granite, and it has a decidedly -coarser appearance. This is not so lavishly laid, being only one or -two inches thick, whereas the former cement is most frequently found -to have a thickness of at least 6 in., that is, in those instances -where the structures are not entirely composed of this cement. A great -quantity of this cement work can be seen on the Acropolis or in the -Valley of Ruins. - -(3) A further class of cement is of a dull reddish colour, containing -more soil than granite. Practically it is clay, but so fine and well -polished that it deserves the designation of cement. This work had been -burnt white, and its material is very strong and far superior to the -best clay used by the oldest native occupiers. - -(4) A greyish-coloured cement, in which there are large proportions of -lime. This is found in ruins. On the summit of Rusivanga Kopje there -are floors and walls made of it. There is difference of opinion between -builders and native authorities as to the makers of this cement. It is -most certainly superior to any such material made by the natives of -to-day. It closely resembles, if it is not identical with, the material -used in building the two classes of huts Nos. 1 and 2 (see _Native huts -found in ruins_). The natives state it is not of any known Makalanga -make. It is found in large slabs, as if from the side walls of circular -huts, fully 14 ft. in diameter, also in bevelled ruins of all sizes. -This cement can be seen in some of the ruins, also on Zimbabwe Hill, -where the natives state there has been no occupation, excepting, of -course, Mogabe’s brief residence, for at least five generations. -Judging by the high-class quality of Kafir “finds” here, it is quite -possible that this cement is that of the mediæval Makalanga. - -(5) The other descriptions of _daga_ (clay) vary in quality from -fairly good to most inferior. These are mere veld soil, without being -mixed with lime, and are seen in portions of distinctly old Kafir huts -resembling the types Nos. 2 and 3. It is also to be found in quantities -on the Bentberg and on Rusivanga Kopje. In many trenches can be seen -three or four layers of this _daga_ one above another, each layer being -about one inch thick, and there are layers of ashes between the floors. - - • • • • • - -_Ancients and caves and rock holes._—There are innumerable rock holes, -chasms, and large fissures among the cliffs and boulders of the -Acropolis Hill, but there is only one—the Balcony Cave—that actually -deserves the title of cave, though this name is bestowed upon them all -by several writers. Perhaps Balcony Cave approaches nearest to the -general conception of what is a cave. But the holes under beetling -boulders which constitute these “caves” are as a rule shallow, low, and -narrow. - -There are no evidences in any of these holes, so far as they have been -examined, that the ancients cut into the rock or quarried to make or -improve these holes, the faces of the rock being all natural, and -devoid of any traces of their having been worked. Sir John Willoughby -makes a similar statement as to the rock never having been cut. It is -also noticeable that small spurs of formation rock jutting up through -the floors of enclosures have never been cut away. But the ancient -builders were very clever in artificially improving the fronts of the -rock holes, so as to add extra space to the size of the holes. This -was done in at least two instances, though there are traces of its -having been done elsewhere. A wall was built at some feet immediately -in front of the hole, and this was carried up so high that its summit -was connected with the cliff or boulder which rose above and arched -outwards in front of the hole. This is seen at South Cave, where a wall -was carried up to the over-arching boulder, thus more than doubling the -area of the cave (see descriptions of each cave). - -There are a series of such rock holes on the north-east side of the -hill and on the south of Rock Holes Path. The covered holes between -the large boulders look very romantic, and their appearance suggests -the probability of there being large caves here, but the appearance is -most deceptive. The greatest number of such hollows are to be found at -the east end of the Acropolis Hill, and some few of these are worth -visiting, but the irregular and rugged contour of that face of the -hill makes climbing there a most difficult matter, besides which our -labourers have recently killed two tiger-cats at these holes, and they -state that there are more of such animals there. - -Some few only of the caves near the main ruins of the Acropolis have -had cemented floors, the formation rock being in most instances -sufficiently smooth and level to make it unnecessary to lay cement -floors. Platform Cave has at least three levels of cement flooring one -above another. - -The purposes for which these caves have been used cannot be determined, -for the finds made in them were very meagre and common, most being -Makalanga hoes, spearheads, brass wire bangles still containing hair or -grass, and fragments of pottery of poor and modern make. The only caves -which yielded anything of antique character were Platform and Balcony -Caves. In the former were sections of soapstone monoliths and fragments -of soapstone bowls. In the latter were about a dozen large slate beams -and plain soapstone beams. The soil in this cave has often been panned -by visitors, as there has always been an idea that gold dust was once -stored here. Almost all the pannings showed faint traces of gold, and -one or two rather richly. Theodore Bent, Sir John Willoughby, and also -many searchers for relics, have practically cleared the most important -of these caves of all finds. - -A cave hole under an immense boulder on the south side of the Gold -Furnace Enclosure is about 15 ft. square, but one has to crouch low -down to move about in it. Here have been found quantities of quartz, -copper ore, and ironstone, pieces of beaten copper and copper wire, -sections of gold crucibles, and pottery whorls. No industry could -have been carried on in this low-roofed area, but gold-, copper-, and -iron-smelting were evidently conducted in the adjoining and higher Gold -Furnace Enclosure, and this hole or chasm, as Bent calls it, was used -for depositing the debris from such furnaces. - -Nearly all the rock holes on Zimbabwe Hill had been used for some -purposes—up to four years ago by the Makalanga as burial-places, the -hill abounding in such graves. Now the local Makalanga are prohibited -burying on this hill, and at the same time their kraal was removed from -the Acropolis. The bodies were placed in the corners of these rock -holes and piled over with stones; the pot, assegais, knobkerries—and in -one instance a large bark-string hunting-net, 5 ft. high and about 30 -yds. long—which belonged to the deceased, were laid upon the top of the -stones. - -There are no Bushman paintings in any of these caves, nor on the -immense rocks which are strewn all over the hill. Nor does the district -round about possess any of these paintings. Almost every kopje within -a few miles of Zimbabwe has very recently been carefully examined for -walls, relics, caves, and paintings, several of the hills having been -within the last few months ascended several times from various points. -Natives, farmers, and prospectors state that these are altogether -absent from this portion of the Victoria district. - -But caves and rock holes are very numerous on some of the kopjes which -are within an easy walk of the ruins, and if some of these were cleared -out some discoveries might possibly be made. It will be recalled that -both the ancient cylinder with rosettes, the wooden platter with the -signs of the zodiac, and the notorious pot “Fuko-ya-Nebandge” were all -found in caves at some little distance from Zimbabwe. - - - - - CHAPTER IX - - THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - - Main Walls—Plan—Construction—Measurements—Summit—Foundations—Chevron - Pattern—Ground Surface of Exterior. - - -_Plan of main wall._—Though popularly spoken of as the “Circular -Temple,”[46] the building is of elliptical plan, “a form of temple,” -says Bent, “found at Marib, the ancient capital of the Sabæan kingdom -in Arabia, and at the Castle of Nakab al Hajar, also in that country.” -The resemblance between the temple at Marib and the Elliptical Temple -at Zimbabwe is remarkable, and several scientists of repute, who have -considered the plans of both these ruins, emphasise the remarkable -resemblance, not only in the plan, but in the forms of worship -practised by the ancients, as evidenced also by the relics discovered -at both temples. For instance, Professor Müller, of Vienna, the great -South Arabian archæologist (_Burgen und Schlösser_, ii. 20.) compares -these two ruins as follows:— - - _Marib._ _Zimbabwe._ - -Plan, system of curved walls, Practically the same. -geometrical building, orientation. - -Inscription on Marib is in two rows, Two rows of chevron pattern run -and runs round a fourth of the round a fourth part of the -circumference. circumference. - -Half of elliptical wall, on side of The same at Zimbabwe, where the -inscription, is well built and well pattern side of the wall is well -preserved, but opposite side is built. The other portion is rough. -badly built and ruined. - -Temple was dedicated to the goddess Highly probable that Zimbabwe was -Almaquah—the star Venus, which is a Sabæan Almaquah temple, as it is -called in the Himyaritic tongue orientated and geometrically built -Ialmaquah, or Almaq = illuminating. for astronomical purposes, as in - all cases of such buildings used - for the worship of Almaquah. - Sacred birds found at Zimbabwe are - said to represent Venus the - “Morning Star.”[47] - -Herr Brugsch believes the images of the birds found at Zimbabwe -emphasised a Sabæan occupation, while M. Naville is especially of -opinion that there exists a strong connection between Venus, the star -of the Sabæans, and the goddess worshipped at Zimbabwe. The evidences -pointing to the close connection of the South Arabian temples and -Zimbabwe are almost inexhaustible. On this point Bent and Schlichter -are at one with each other (see _Petermann’s Mitteilungen_ 1892; also -_The Gold of Ophir_ by Professor A. H. Keane; and M. Arnaud’s plan of -the temple at Marib). - -Professor Müller also states that the elliptically formed wall appears -to have been always used in the temple buildings of ancient Arabia, and -states that at Sirwah the Almaquah temple is built in an oval form. In -these old temples, he says, sacred inscriptions to the deities were set -up on stylæ (stone beams). At Zimbabwe some scores of carved soapstone -beams have been discovered in the three temples, also ten birds perched -on tall soapstone beams and three other birds detached from their -beams, also four miniature birds on pedestals carved out of soapstone. - -The Elliptical Temple at Zimbabwe is a much larger building than that -at Marib, having a circumference of about 833 ft. as against the 300 -ft. of the Marib temple. - -On entering the building it is at once seen that the most massive -and excellently constructed portions of the main wall extend -from slightly north of the North Entrance to the east and south and -south-west, and that the other portions, particularly the north-west -and west, are slighter, and though showing fairly good workmanship, -it is not nearly so well built as the other portion of the wall, the -average width of the summit of the poor wall being barely a third -of the average width of the better-built portion. The general line -of the summit is also fairly level, but it averages some 5 ft. to 8 -ft. less in height than that of the northern and eastern walls. The -distinct character of the two portions of the main wall is very plainly -noticeable on viewing the temple from the summit of the Acropolis Hill. - -[Illustration: THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE Great Zimbabwe - -_Methuen & Co._] - -But this temple does not stand alone in showing its main wall massive -and exceptionally well built at one point of its circumference and -slighter built on the other part. This feature is common to many ruins -in Rhodesia, excepting, of course, ruins of forts and those ruins -built upon the angular plan and terraced. Bent was fully aware of this -feature, and cites instances of its occurrence. Mr. Swan does the same, -and so does Schlichter. At some time or another before the north-west -and west wall was built that portion of the original wall had become -dilapidated, and the temple had become “half-moon,” “section of a -circle,” or “crescent” shaped, these being the terms applied by all -writers, without exception, to such of the circular ruins in the First -Period Ruins’ Area,[48] where portions of the main wall had fallen -down. The published plans of ruins demonstrate this fact. Probably -Zimbabwe will again become a “section of a circle,” for it stands to -reason that the weaker wall will be the first portion to disappear. - -The massive and well-built portions of the ruins, built upon a system -of curves, almost always bear the mural pattern of the oldest types, -while the slighter portions are without pattern. It is so at Marib, -it is so at Zimbabwe, and it is so in some score of ruins built upon -the same principles, as shown in the Elliptical Temple. This has been -found to be so invariable a rule that on sighting a building of this -class of ruin even at some distance one can almost fix the position -of the pattern, that is, if the wall is not so reduced in height that -the decoration, if originally any, has not disappeared. Assuming no -principle of orientation to attach to such ruins, there yet remains -something to be done in explaining the directions of the massive curved -and decorated walls of the circular ruins, for the existence of so many -scores of parallelisms can hardly be explained away as being but so -many coincidences. - -It has now (June, 1903) for the first time been shown by ocular -demonstration that the slighter wall, though ancient, is a -reconstruction of a still more ancient wall which curved outwards more -to the north and north-west. Recently some thirty tons of granite -blocks which lay in the gap on either side of it were removed, and the -foundations at this spot uncovered, showing the meeting in a mis-joint -at an oblique angle of two distinct walls, the foundations of the -massive north wall being 9 ft. 10 in. wide, and that of the later wall -6 ft. wide, while the class of building in the two walls is obviously -distinct. The face of the end of the north wall was extended further -outwards towards N.W. 40 ft., and the line of its foundation, according -to its curve, points in that direction, where, it is believed, the old -extended foundation has been come upon at 36 ft. outside the later -wall. The slighter wall approaches the massive wall from W. 80. The -bases of the foundations are practically on the same level. - -Though the later wall is not so well constructed as the older wall, it -must not be taken as poorly built. (See “_Construction of main wall_,” -later.) - -The wonderful feature is that no joint in the wall has so far been -discovered in its south-west portion. Practical builders who have -examined the wall on this side for such a joint are perplexed at -not being able to discover it, and some consider, from certain -circumstances noticeable, that it must have been at the West Entrances -where this later wall was commenced, in which case no such joint would -in all probability be found. - - • • • • • - -_Construction._—The construction of the main wall from the north to the -east, and round to the south and south-west, is admittedly by far the -finest specimen of ancient constructive work yet found in Rhodesia; it -has consequently been made the standard by which the best-known writers -and greatest authorities judge of the quality of the work shown in -other walls in the country. Certainly two large and important ruins in -the Lower Sabi Valley, which are much larger in area but with lower -walls than Zimbabwe, closely rival the Great Zimbabwe in construction -and boldness of design. But with regard to the more massive and highest -portion of the main wall every practical builder who visits Zimbabwe -is amazed at the equal distribution of the joints, the conscientious -bonding of the outer courses, the good quality of stone selected, the -careful dressing and the regularity of the sizes of the blocks, the -neat packing throughout the whole width of the wall, and the tiling of -the summits of the wall with “throughs.” The filling-in of the wall -has been most conscientiously executed, and is seen to have been done -course by course with the faces of the wall, as the courses throughout -are pronounced to correspond with the outer courses of the wall on -either side, and some builders have positively stated that some sort -of a levelling instrument must have been used. “Straight joints” for -more than two or three courses are absent, and these are rare, “false -courses” are also rare, and there is little seen of chips levelling up -the corners of the blocks. - -The marvellous symmetry of the batter-back of the dry masonry, -especially in the boldly conceived and most excellently constructed -sweep of the wall on its inner face from north to north-east and -south-west, secures the admiration of every visitor, and forms one -of the chief features by which the Great Zimbabwe stamps itself on -one’s memory. The scrupulously careful workmanship displayed here, and -particularly in the courses near the Chevron Pattern and on the outer -face of the north-east portion of the wall, show undoubtedly the most -superior of any ancient building yet discovered in Rhodesia, if not -also of the important ruins lying at some distance, to the south-east, -of which only sketch-plans and a few photographs are yet to hand. The -massive solidity and excellent construction, together with its batter -(see _Architecture_, section “Battering of Walls”), which this wall -displays, have, no doubt, secured its wonderful preservation in spite -of earthquake, effects of tree and creeper growth, and the ravages of -some millenniums of time. - -The construction demonstrates the fact that the ancients in their own -home in the north were thoroughly well-practised in the building with -either stone blocks or bricks. Moreover, as suggested by Bent and -Schlichter, the extensive use of granite cement in making floors both -inside and outside the ruins at Zimbabwe proves that it was by design -that the ancients adopted the system of building with dry masonry. - -Concerning the construction of the north-west and west portions of -the main wall there has been much controversy, Bent and Schlichter -being emphatic in stating that not only was it most inferior to that -of the other portions of the main wall, but that it was obviously -of later construction on contracted lines, but still ancient. These -two archæologists could have arrived at this conclusion only by the -measurement of the wall and by its quality of workmanship. Sir John -Willoughby, on the other hand, contended that it is built as well as -any other portion of the main wall. It is certainly not poor building -that renders it less easy to climb along its summit, the difficulty -being the number of loose stones which line the top owing to the -summit having been threshed by branches of large trees. - -[Illustration: SOUTH-EAST WALL, WITH CHEVRON PATTERN, OF ELLIPTICAL -TEMPLE, ZIMBABWE] - -This wall—now recently shown to be a reconstruction in a later ancient -period[49]—is in every point better built than many walls on the -Acropolis, and is superior in workmanship to many of the divisional -walls of the Elliptical Temple. The outer face is fairly well -constructed. - - • • • • • - -_Measurements of main wall._—The circumference of the outer face of the -main wall taken at the level of the threshold of the entrances measures -about 831 ft. As the foundations throughout the circumference are, as -is shown later, some 3 ft. to 5 ft. below this level, and as the usual -Zimbabwe batter-back prevails, the circumference of the foundations of -this building may safely be estimated at a further 40 ft., which would -make a total circumference of the base of the temple some 873 ft. - -The circumference of the inside face of the entire main wall measured -at a corresponding level is about 776 ft. 6 in., the foundations, as -shown later, being from 3 ft. to 5 ft. below the level at which this -measurement was taken. - -Granite slabs with painted figures now mark the distances both outside -and inside round the main wall, commencing in either case at the south -side of the West Entrance and going south. The distances on the outside -are marked at every 50 ft., and those on the inside at every 20 ft. A -small black spot is painted on the wall just above each slab to denote -the exact spot in each length measured. - -In this description of the Elliptical Temple all measurements in -angular brackets are exterior measurements of the main wall only, and -those in rounded brackets are those of interior measurements of the -main wall, all commencing at the south side of the West Entrance and -going south. For instance, “The North-West Entrance is situated between -the following points in the main wall—[656 ft.] and [660 ft.] and (606 -ft. 6 in.) and (611 ft.),” or “A large granite beam lies at the base of -the main wall at (338 ft.).” - - MEASUREMENTS OF EXTERIOR OF MAIN WALL COMMENCING AT SOUTH SIDE OF THE - WEST ENTRANCE AND GOING SOUTH - -Position Point Height above Height above Width of Batter-back -of wall. of cleared bottom of present of face of - compass surface. foundation. summit. wall. - faced. - - [0 ft.] W. 7 ft. 6 in. 11 ft. 6 ft. 6 in. 8 in. - - Between [0 ft.] and [10 ft.] summit of wall rises from 7 ft. to - 22 ft. - -[10 ft.] — 22 ft. 23 ft. 10 in. 4 ft. 2 in. 2 ft. -[25 ft.] — 21 ft. 6 in. 23 ft. 6 in. 5 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. -[50 ft.] — 22 ft. 24 ft. 6 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 6 in. - - Between [98 ft.] and [104 ft.] are traces of a wall of this width - running towards S.W. - -[100 ft.] S.W. 22 ft. 24 ft. 6 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 6 in. -[150 ft.] S.S.W. 22 ft. 6 in. 24 ft. 6 in. 6 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 6 in. - - Between [161 ft.] and [166 ft. 6 in.] are traces only of wall of - this width protruding from main wall towards S.W. - - Chevron Pattern commences at [189 ft.] and extends to [455 ft. - 6 in.]. - -[200 ft.] S. 22 ft. 8 in. 25 ft. 2 in. 10 ft. 2 in. 1 ft. 10 in. -[250 ft.] S.E. 25 ft. 26 ft. 6 in. 8 ft. 2 in. 2 ft. 6 in. -[300 ft.] S.E. 29 ft. 30 ft. 6 in. 8 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 8 in. -[350 ft.] E. 29 ft. 31 ft. 6 in. 9 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 4 in. - - At [380 ft.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall. - -[400 ft.] E. 30 ft. 31 ft. 9 in. 7 ft. 4 in. 2 ft. 6 in. - - At [425 ft. 9 in.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall. - -[450 ft.] E.N.E. 32 ft. 34 ft. 9 ft. 6 in. 3 ft. - - From [450 ft.] to [565 ft.] is Outer Parallel Passage. - Chevron Pattern ends at [455 ft. 6 in.]. - At [482 ft.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall. - -[500 ft.] N.E. 33 ft. 35 ft. 6 in. 12 ft. 2 in. 3 ft. 6 in. - - At [510 ft. 6 in.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall. - At [530 ft.] line of summit falls to 28 ft. - -[550 ft.] N.E. 19 ft. 21 ft. 13 ft. 4 in. 1 ft. 4 in. - - Summit of wall very considerably dilapidated. - At [560 ft.] outer end of drain-hole through main wall. - At [571 ft. 6 in.] to [576 ft. 6 in.] steps of North Entrance. - -[575 ft.] N.E. 11 ft. (not examined) 14 ft. 2 ft. 6 in. - - West side of North Entrance, 11 ft. high, rises to 17 ft. at - [580 ft.]. - - Between [586 ft.] to [590 ft.] wall this width, forming - north-west side of North-East Passage, protrudes from main - wall towards N.E. - - From [610 ft.] to [620 ft.] is gap in main wall and mis-joint of - earlier and later walls. - -[625 ft.] N. 16 ft. 6 in. 19 ft. 5 ft. 1 ft. - - Original height of wall reduced to 16 ft. 6 in. on west side of - gap. - -[656 ft.] N.N.W. 17 ft. 19 ft. 3 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 10 in. - (ruined) - East side of North-West Entrance. - -[660 ft.] N.N.W. 17 ft. 19 ft. 5 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 10 in. - - West side of North-West Entrance. - -[675 ft.] N.W. 17 ft. 18 ft. 6 in. 5 ft. 2 in. 1 ft. 10 in. - - Face of wall bulges outwards above foundations. - -[700 ft.] N.W. 18 ft. 19 ft. 10 in. 4 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 6 in. - - For several feet on either side of [700 ft.] summit of wall is - considerably depressed by tree boughs hitting it. - - A wall connecting No. 1 Ruin with Elliptical Temple protrudes - from main wall between [705 ft.] and [710 ft.]. - -[750 ft.] W.N.W. 21 ft. 23 ft. 4 ft. 8 in. 2 ft. 6 in. -[800 ft.] W.N.W. 20 ft. 6 in. 22 ft. 4 in. 4 ft. 10 in. 3 ft. - - From [814 ft.] to [829 ft.] the line of summit breaks downwards - abruptly from 20 ft. to 8 ft. in height. - -[827 ft. 9 in.] W. 8 ft. (not examined) 6 ft. 10 in. - - This is the north side of West Entrance. - -[831 ft. 9 in.] This is the south side of the West Entrance, where the - first measurement started. - - - MEASUREMENTS OF INTERIOR FACE OF MAIN WALL COMMENCING AT SOUTH SIDE - OF THE WEST ENTRANCE AND GOING SOUTH - -Position Side of Height above Batter-back of Point in interior -of wall. temple. cleared surface. face of wall. of temple. - -(0 ft.) W.N.W. 7 ft. 6 in. 8 in. No. 5 Enclosure - - Between (0 ft.) and (10 ft.) is a large rounded buttress - projecting into the temple. (See description of West - Entrance.) - - Between (0 ft.) and (10 ft.) summit rises sharply from 7 ft. - 6 in. to 18 ft. 6 in., measurement from present surface of - interior soil. - -(10 ft.) W.N.W. 18 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. No. 5 Enclosure -(20 ft.) W.N.W. 21 ft. 1 ft. 10 in. 〃 - - Measured from bottom of trench showing an old cement floor now - decomposed. - -(40 ft.) W.N.W. 21 ft. 1 ft. 8 in. No. 5 Enclosure - - Measured from bottom of trench showing an old cement floor now - decomposed. - -(60 ft.) W. 21 ft. 4 in. 1 ft. 6 in. No. 5 Enclosure - - Measured from bottom of trench showing an old cement floor now - decomposed. - -(80 ft.) W. 21 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 2 in. No. 5 Enclosure - - Measured from bottom of trench showing an old cement floor now - decomposed. - -(100 ft.) W. 18 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 9 in. No. 6 Enclosure - - Measured from top of débris on summit of low divisional wall. - -(120 ft.) S.W. 20 ft. 10 in. 2 ft. 1 in. No. 6 Enclosure - - Measured from red clay floor, believed to be of Makalanga - construction. - - At (134 ft.) to (138 ft.) are traces only of a divisional wall. - -(140 ft.) S.W. 21 ft. 8 in. 2 ft. 2 in. No. 6 Enclosure - - Measured from a yellow granite cement floor. - -(160 ft.) S.W. 22 ft. 4 in. 2 ft. 2 in. No. 6 Enclosure - - Measured from a yellow granite cement floor. - -(179 ft. 3 in.) - - Angle of walls. - -(180 ft.) S.W. 21 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. No. 6 Enclosure - - Measured from a yellow granite cement floor. - - At (180 ft.) step-down of foundation of 5 ft. - -(200 ft.) S.S.W. 17 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 2 in. No. 8 Enclosure - - Measured from summit of old excavated débris, Sacred Enclosure - 5 ft. high (since removed). (west) - -(220 ft.) S.S.W. 22 ft. 1 ft. 6 in. No. 8 Enclosure - - Measured from summit of old excavated débris, Sacred Enclosure - 5 ft. high. (west) - -(240 ft.) S. 23 ft. 6 in. 3 ft. No. 8 Enclosure - - Measured from summit of old excavated débris, Sacred Enclosure - 5 ft. high. (west) - - The large Conical Tower stands between (246 ft.) - to (264 ft.). - -(260 ft.) S. 26 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 10 in. No. 8 Enclosure - - Measured from yellow granite cement floor. Sacred Enclosure - (east) - -(280 ft.) S. 26 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 4 in. No. 8 Enclosure - - Measured from yellow granite cement floor. Sacred Enclosure - (east) - The roughly built buttress at (286 ft.) to (303 ft.) - is not ancient. - -(300 ft.) S. 28 ft. 2 ft. 6 in. No. 8 Enclosure - - Measured from yellow cement floor. Sacred Enclosure - (east) - There are doubts as to the antiquity of buttress - at (306 ft.) to (319 ft.). - -(320 ft.) S.S.E. 29 ft. 2 ft. 4 in. No. 8 Enclosure - - Measured from yellow granite cement floor. Sacred Enclosure - (east). At West - Granite monolith (conjected) fallen from wall at Entrance to - (340 ft.). Parallel Passage. - - Drain-hole through wall at (352 ft.). - -(340 ft.) S.S.E. 28 ft. 10 in. 2 ft. 2 in. Parallel Passage - - Measured from cement floor. - - At (352 ft.) is a drain-hole. - -(360 ft.) S.S.E. 30 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 2 in. Parallel Passage - - Measured from cement floor. - -(380 ft.) S.E. 30 ft. 4 in. 3 ft. Parallel Passage - - Measured from cement floor. - - Drain-hole at (391 ft. 6 in.). - -(400 ft.) S.E. 29 ft. 3 ft. 2 in. Parallel Passage - - Measured from cement floor. - -(420 ft.) E.S.E. 30 ft. 4 in. 3 ft. 2 in. Parallel Passage - - Measured from cement floor. - -(440 ft.) E.S.E. 30 ft. 6 in. 4 ft. Parallel Passage - - Measured from cement floor. - - Drain-hole at (442 ft.). - -(460 ft.) E. 31 ft. 3 ft. 6 in. Parallel Passage - - Measured from soil surface. - - Drain-hole at (471 ft.). - -(480 ft.) E. 31 ft. 2 ft. 4 in. Parallel Passage - - Measured from soil surface. - -(500 ft.) N.E. 27 ft. 2 ft. 10 in. Parallel Passage - - The summit of the wall is much dilapidated. Between (500 ft.) - and (520 ft.) the wall is broken, there being a large gap of - this width, the bottom of which is 14 ft. above present level - of floor. - -(520 ft.) N.E. 13 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 6 in. Parallel Passage - - Between (520 ft.) and (530 ft.) is the North Entrance. Wall on - east side 6 ft. high, on west side 6 ft. 6 in. high, but on - each side rises sharply within a few feet of the entrance. - - From (536 ft.) to (544 ft.) are remains of small banquette - below summit, and at 6 ft. above ground. - -(540 ft.) N.N.E. 18 ft. 1 ft. 8 in. No. 2 Enclosure - - Drain-hole at (549 ft.). - -(560 ft.) N.N.E. 12 ft. 2 ft. No. 2 Enclosure - - Centre of line of summit is 3 ft. higher than reduced inside - edge. - - Between (566 ft.) and (570 ft.) is the mis-joint in earlier and - later walls. - -(580 ft.) N. 3 ft. — No. 2 Enclosure - - At (580 ft.) the wall on west side of gap rises abruptly. - -(600 ft.) N. 18 ft. 1 ft. 10 in. No. 3 Enclosure - - Measured from an old cement floor. - - Between (606 ft. 6 in.) and (611 ft. 6 in.) is the North-West - Entrance. - -(620 ft.) N.W. 6 ft. 10 in. No. 3 Enclosure - - At (614 ft.) this wall rises perpendicularly to 16 ft. - -(640 ft.) N.N.W. 16 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 6 in. No. 3 Enclosure - - Measured from granite cement floor. - -(660 ft.) N.N.W. 19 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 4 in. No. 3 Enclosure - - Measured from granite cement floor. - - Depression on summit caused by a tree. - -(680 ft.) N.N.W. 20 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 2 in. No. 4 Enclosure - - Measured from granite cement floor. - -(700 ft.) N.N.W. 20 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. No. 4 Enclosure - - Measured from granite cement floor. - -(720 ft.) N.W. 18 ft. 6 in. 1 ft. 4 in. No. 4 Enclosure - - Measured from granite cement floor. - - Depression on summit caused by a tree. - -(740 ft.) N.W. 19 ft. 2 ft. 1 in. Wall separating - Nos. 4 and 5 - Measured from base of divisional wall. Enclosures - -(750 ft.) N.W. 18 ft. 10 in. 1 ft. 10 in. No. 5 Enclosure - - Measured from surface of soil. - - Near (54 ft.) summit of wall drops to 9 ft. at north side of - West Entrance. - -(763 ft. 6 in.) W.N.W. 7 ft. 10 in. No. 5 Enclosure - - Opening of West Entrance between (763 ft.) and (766 ft.). - -(776 ft. 6 in.) This is the south side of West Entrance, where first - measurement started. - -[Illustration: CHEVRON PATTERN ON EAST WALL, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -_Summit of main wall._—For some fairly extensive lengths along the -summit of the more massive portion of the main wall the blocks and -stones are higher on the centre of the floor of the summit than at top -outer edges on either side, from which edges the measurements of the -heights above the exterior and interior surfaces of the ground were -taken. Branches of trees beating in high winds upon the summit, the -weight of heavy festoons of creepers hanging from the summit, and the -growth of monkey-ropes and wild vines in the joints of the dry masonry -have destroyed some of the upper courses on either side of the wall. -Therefore to the heights stated in the foregoing tables should be -added at least 1 ft. or 2 ft., this being a fair average height of the -whale-back ridge along portions of the summit of the wall. - -An interesting question arises: What was the original height of the -massive portion of the wall? There are some evidences that the original -height could not have been more than six courses above the chevron -pattern which runs on a true level on the upper and outer face of the -wall between [189 ft.] and [455 ft.]. The greatest number of courses -now remaining over this pattern is five, but these are only found at -two points and for the length of a few blocks. At most points above -the pattern there are no upper courses remaining; at other points one -or two courses are perfect for some distance; the most frequent are -three courses; while at several points there are four courses. To the -heights given in the tables can safely be added 1 ft. to 2 ft. Were the -obviously missing courses to be restored, the raised ridge along the -centre of parts of the summit would be cleared, for these ridges of -stones are formed of blocks once carefully packed, all on their flat -sides, between side walls, and are similar to the existing internal -portions of other well-built walls at Zimbabwe. - -Adding this further height of from 1 ft. to 2 ft. to the tabulated -heights, we can carry the investigation much further. The upper faces -of the blocks of the fourth and fifth courses above the pattern are too -free from decomposition, weather-stain, and lichen to have formed the -topmost courses; in fact, their upper surfaces are decidedly fresh, -as if the courses above them had not long disappeared, and when it is -recollected that experience shows that the exposed top surfaces of -blocks are found to take on signs of decomposition and of exposure to -weather, and also to become covered with lichen quicker than the side -faces of blocks in the body of the wall, and that the upper courses -would have given some evidences of long exposure, which they do not, we -may be certain that the wall was carried a further course, or possibly -two courses of the wall higher than the fifth course above the pattern. -Therefore at many points along the highest portions of the wall, as -shown in the tables, 2 ft. 6 in. may be added to the tabulated heights, -and this would include the height of the six courses above the pattern -throughout its whole length. - -Whether the original summit was higher than these six courses is a -matter of conjecture. Possibly the wall was two or three courses higher -than the six courses. Here, as elsewhere in the first-period ruins in -Rhodesia, the best-built portion of the edifice is that which bears -the decorative designs. This appears to be an invariable rule in such -older ruins. But at this temple the whole wall, and especially the -courses immediately above and below the pattern, are the best-built -portions of the most superior wall of the building, the courses being -far truer. Moreover, a good quality of stone is employed, giving the -impression that it was specially selected for the purpose, so much so -that their back parts are as well squared as their front faces. It is -most obvious, as practical builders claim, that the pattern itself and -its enclosing courses show the best workmanship on the part of the -ancients, and this notwithstanding that this wall is admitted by all -to stand pre-eminent among excellently constructed walls to be found -anywhere in Rhodesia. - -[Illustration: NORTH-EAST WALL, WITH CHEVRON PATTERN, ELLIPTICAL -TEMPLE] - -In removing the wall débris at the outer base of the wall containing -the chevron pattern for the purpose of forming catchment areas for -draining the ground near the wall, two classes of stone blocks were -found, a quantity of large, shallow, flat stones similar to those lying -in the middle parts of the summit of the walls, and also a quantity of -well-shaped blocks as used both in the pattern and in the enclosing -courses, but it was estimated that there were not enough of these -blocks to have carried the outer face of the wall more than some two -courses above the fifth course above the pattern. It is impossible to -draw any corresponding inferences with regard to débris on the base of -the interior side of the wall, for excavators have moved this out of -all relative position to the wall from which it fell. - -But there is also some evidence as to the original height of the wall. -Such of the undoubted monoliths as still stand more or less erect on -the summit of the wall—and as is shown later, not every upright stone -on this wall is necessarily a monolith—have no signs on their faces of -having been built in by blocks up to any height above the level of the -six courses above the pattern. In the case of any fallen monolith from -the faces of which supporting blocks or any of them have disappeared, -it can be ascertained to what depth the base of the monolith was built -into the wall, and in this respect there is some evidence to guide one -in estimating the original height of the ancient wall so adorned. The -wearing of their sides by the edges of supporting blocks can almost -always be noticed, in addition to which the rain of many centuries is -guided to the base by the position of the supporting blocks which guide -the water downwards, thus causing small rimlets to form on the lower -part of the beams, especially those of slate or soapstone, where the -rimlets have become in time beautifully smooth and glazed. Therefore -it is highly probable that the height of the six courses above the -pattern, with the present height of the wall above its foundations as -given in the tables, formed the original height of the massive portion -of the enclosing wall. - -The discovery in December, 1902, of what are believed to be traces of a -line of small round towers on the outer edge of the summit immediately -over the chevron pattern—and these are referred to later—affords very -strong evidence as to what was the original height of the wall, and -points to the limit of six courses above the chevron pattern. The line -of small round towers (recently found to have been conical) on the -outer edge of the west wall of the Western Temple on the Acropolis have -their foundations a few inches below the present summit of the wall. -The foundations of the towers on the wall at the Elliptical Temple, -now being described, have their foundations on the present surface of -the central ridge along the summit of the wall, but were the pattern -made good at the height of the six courses alone, the positions of -these foundations would be identical in several respects with those of -the towers on the Acropolis. Thus these foundations provide a fourth -important corroborative clue as to the original height of the wall. - -Along the floor of the summit are laid some large, broad, but shallow -slabs of granite of irregular form, while down below on either side -were a score of others which have fallen off the wall. Bent suggested -that the summit was once paved with these slabs. In view of the four -proofs just adduced with regard to the original height of the wall -being somewhat higher than is seen to-day, the purpose of the slabs -could hardly be that of providing a pavement for the summit. Most -probably they were the “ties” or “throughs” to bind the wall at its -top courses, as invariably found near the summits of the best class of -walls, especially so in all rounded ends of walls, summits of rounded -buttresses, and in the Conical Tower where, near its summit, the back -and inside ends of the blocks are frequently longer than in the lower -courses where they are short. Many of these slabs on the main wall -lie across the wall on its present surface, but these are frequently -covered with laid blocks. The best instances at Zimbabwe of the “tying” -and bonding of the highest courses of walls are to be seen on the -Acropolis, but this feature is elsewhere in Rhodesia common in several -ruins which are not built upon the angular principle. It is natural to -suppose that, if the ancients not only carefully tied the upper courses -of almost all walls with “throughs,” and also tied several points -between base and summit, this main wall bearing the decorative pattern, -and once having on its summit, as is now believed, both round towers -and soapstone beams, the ancients, admittedly being skilful builders, -would regard the effective tying and bonding of such a wall as an -important necessity, especially as the wide and commodious summit was, -as stated by Bent, in all probability a look-out and much-frequented -elevation. The stones which are uncovered are decomposed and lichen-and -moss-covered on their upper faces, but are on their under side as fresh -and as clean as if they had just been brought from the quarry. Some -visitors, supposing these tie-stones to have been fallen monoliths, -have placed four of them in an upright position where they now stand, -but unlike all true monoliths, they are not weathered or time-eaten -all round, and two so erected have all their faces perfectly clean and -fresh. - -The summit of the north-west portion of the main wall is fairly level, -save at north-west and west entrances where the wall is reduced in -height, and also at several points where large branches of trees have -beaten off the blocks of the upper courses. The narrow width of the -summit, as shown in the foregoing tables, and the number of loose -stones lying upon it, make it somewhat awkward for walking along it, -still this can be done far more easily than might be supposed from Mr. -Swan’s description. The battering-back of its outer and inner faces -appears to point to its original summit being only slightly higher than -its present top at its highest point. If the wall were once more than -three or four courses above its present highest point, the débris must -have been removed, for no greater quantity of blocks were found than -would have sufficed to make good that height. - - • • • • • - -_Foundation._—For such massive walls it is astonishing to find that the -bottom courses of the foundation are not more than from 2 ft. to 3 ft. -6 in. below the present level of the ground immediately surrounding the -building. The foundation has been examined at eighteen equi-distant -points along the outer circumference, and in no single part does it -rest on formation rock, the nearest proximity of which is at a further -depth of 4 ft. on the north, 5 ft. on the west, 9 ft. on the south, and -4 ft. on the east. Nor are the bottom courses formed of large blocks, -as is so frequently seen in foundations of other ruins, but blocks -no larger than those in the upper courses have been employed almost -without exception. Near (177 ft.) there is a step-up in the foundation -westwards of 5 ft. 9 in. Near [625 ft.] there runs for a few feet a -very narrow step-back in the three lowest courses of the foundation, -but this is the only point in the circumference of the wall where this -feature can be noticed. - -The foundation bed upon which the wall is built is purely artificial. -Evidently the ancient architects prepared a level surface for the wall, -because there is only from 3 ft. to 5 ft. difference in the level of -the foundations all round, notwithstanding that on the south-east the -ground towards the “Valley of Ruins” and the temple which is erected on -the edge of its slope commands the “Valley of Ruins.” - -The surface of the prepared foundation consisted of fine cement, now -decomposed[50] to firm dry sand. This cement is in places at least -3 ft. deep, is laid on the granite formation for 10 ft. and 15 ft. -beyond the wall on both inside and outside the building, and later, -when the lower courses of the foundation had been laid, a further -flooring of cement was laid, making the side of the lower portion of -the foundations at least 1 ft. 6 in., if not 2 ft. 6 in. deep. - -The enormous amount of time and labour required to be expended merely -in preparing the surface on which to erect the temple is bewildering to -contemplate, and fairly rivals as a demonstration of patient labour, -length of time of construction, and good workmanship the massive walls -themselves. The decomposed cement, which has now become mere sand, was -very finely ground, there being not the smallest splinter of granite in -its composition. The cement being yellow suggests that the ancients, -to save breaking up large pieces of stone, were content to collect -small fragments of granite which had become decomposed, and therefore -were easier to grind, for everywhere in this locality, especially in -damp places and near any granite boulder or glacis, are to be found -quantities of small granite chips all yellow with decomposition. -Possibly granite sand from neighbouring streams might also have been -utilised. - - - CHEVRON PATTERN - -On the upper portion of the exterior face of the south-east main -wall is the celebrated chevron pattern which forms one of the most -interesting features at the Elliptical Temple. This pattern runs -for 265 ft. 6 in. from [189 ft.] to [456 ft. 6 in.] on the line of -measurement of the exterior circumference of the temple, that is, from -south-south-east to east-north-east. - -The pattern is in two rows or bands, which together are 18 in. deep, -and Bent states that “it extends along the part of the wall which -receives directly the rays of the sun when rising at the summer -solstice.” The portion of the main wall carrying the pattern is in the -form of an arc, and is the best-built and most substantial part of the -wall. Granite monoliths still stand more or less erect on the summit -of the wall above the pattern, but not elsewhere. Over the pattern -are the foundations of what appear to have been small circular towers -resembling in size and position those on the main west wall of the -Western Temple on the Acropolis. - -In 1903 a quantity of sections of worked soapstone beams were found on -the summit of the wall over the pattern. On no other portions of the -summit are there traces of monoliths, round towers, or soapstone beams. -Bent was unaware of the existence of the traces of round towers or of -the soapstone beams on the wall over the pattern, yet he writes, as -seems perfectly correct, “Those parts only of the wall which receive -the direct rays of the sun when rising at the summer solstice are -decorated by this symbolical pattern.” This statement equally applies -to the Eastern Temple on the hill and to the large curved wall in -Philips Ruins, also to the Western Temple, only in this latter case -the great main wall, which is in the form of an arc and is decorated, -receives on its face the rays of the setting sun at the winter -solstice. A very strong corroboration of this statement is afforded by -several other of the more important ruins in Rhodesia which are built -upon the curved plan. - -In this pattern the blocks are placed on end with the top of each -supported by the neighbouring block on one side, thus forming a series -of triangular spaces with the bases alternately up and down. The -sides of these angular spaces are about 7 in. long, and the openings -have been neatly filled in with small stones set back inside 2 in. or -3 in. from flush with the face of the wall. The pattern is somewhat -dilapidated in places owing to creeper growths on the wall and to the -swinging of large tree branches, which in every wind beat the pattern -and loosened the stones forming it. - -Chevron pattern was in ancient times the symbol for Fertility. It -closely resembles the Egyptian hieroglyphic symbol for water, and also -the zodiacal sign of Aquarius, and represents the sea on such Phœnician -coins as have engravings of ships. - -This pattern is found on several of the ruins of the oldest type, and -not on such as by their style of architecture may be considered to be -of a later ancient period. It is found in several of the large ruins -between Zimbabwe and the Sabi, also at Umnukwana Ruins. A portion of -chevron of small size is to be seen at Dhlo-dhlo. - - • • • • • - -_Ground surface of exterior of main wall._—Till August, 1902, the area -surrounding the Elliptical Temple was mere veld and bush, and trees and -shrubs grew so thickly near the main wall that it was impossible at -certain points to penetrate the jungle to make a complete examination -of the wall, while piles of soil from excavations lay along the base -of the wall, and some up against the wall itself, in some cases to a -height of 6 ft. above the average level of the exterior ground. - -Trenches and deep holes, the main wall forming one side of them, were -lined with mud, and filled with ferns and plants which could only -flourish in a situation which was perpetually damp. There was every -evidence that these trenches and holes were filled with water during -each wet season, and that they retained a considerable amount of -moisture even during the dry seasons. At two points this constant state -of damp held by these cuttings had caused the foundations, which at -no place rest on the bed-rock, to sink some inches, thus imparting -wave-like lines to the courses of the wall close to such holes. - -To remove this source of injury to the wall by causing it to sink and -also by stimulating tree and creeper growths which were damaging the -wall, it was decided to remove all such débris piles, and also the -veld soil, most of which had in the course of ages silted down from -the lower slopes of the Bentberg some 200 yds. distant on the south -side of the temple, and to leave a floor of hard soil which would -serve to drain off all rain-water and protect the bases of the walls -from being washed by the storm streams from the higher ground. This -work was carried out for a width of some 6 to 8 yds. round the entire -circumference of the temple. Five catchment areas were formed on the -north-west, west, south, and east sides, and from each such area a -run-off now leads all rain-water into a hole sunk in the ground at some -12 yds. distance from the main wall. - -These five holes, as shown later, have proved useful in demonstrating -certain features connected with the temple which so far had been -impossible of examination:— - -(1) The rock formation is at almost every point some feet below the -lowest course of the foundations of the main wall, in most cases 3 ft. -to 4 ft., and in one instance—the south—fully 6 ft. - -(2) The ground outside the temple has been raised by the silting of -soil from the slopes of the Bentberg, by the spreading out of both -ancient and old native débris piles, by the levelling-up of the surface -for laying clay floors of Makalanga huts, and by block débris from -the main and several minor walls. This filling-in, both natural and -artificial, averages to a height of at least 5 ft. above the level -known to the ancients, thus reducing the comparative elevation of the -temple to that extent. It is now clear that the temple once stood on a -comparatively higher and far more imposing elevation than it stands at -present. - -(3) The granite plateau which underlies the soil upon which the temple -is built is irregular, and resembles on a larger scale the granite -plateaux which extend eastward from the temple.[51] - - - - - CHAPTER X - - THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - (_Continued_) - - MAIN ENTRANCES - - - _North-West Entrance_ - -This entrance is on the north-west side of the temple at (606 ft. 6 -in.) to (611 ft. 6 in.) inside, and [656 ft.] to [660 ft.] outside. As -in the case of _North and West Entrances_, the foundations of the main -wall are carried from side to side of the entrance and from the floor -of the passage, and in them the outer steps are built. The east side -wall is 4 ft. wide where it starts to curve inwards to form the passage -and at 6 ft. above the floor of the entrance. The west side is 7 ft. -wide where it starts to round inwards and at 6 ft. above the entrance -floor. - -Evidently this entrance was not of the importance of either of the -other two portals to the temple. No internal passages converge upon it; -it is less massive, and its purpose appears to have been limited to -serving as a communication with _No. 1 Ruins_ only, as a substantial -wall which encloses these ruins runs round to the north-west main wall -of the temple between [705 ft.] and [710 ft.], where it joins it at -right angles to the main walls. These enclosing walls thus cut off on -either side the exterior of the _North-West Entrance_ from the other -portions of the exterior of the temple, and in these enclosing walls no -signs have so far been discovered of there having been any entrances. - -[Illustration: NORTH-WEST ENTRANCE, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO PASSAGE, No. 10 ENCLOSURE, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -This entrance is built on well-curved lines, but the rounded faces -of the two side walls do not exactly face one another, since the -outside face of the west side projects some 12 in. further north than -that on the east side, the west wall being wider than the east one, -though on their inside faces they are flush with each other. There are -no buttresses on the outside of this entrance. The summits of the side -walls, some 6 ft. above the outside level, are less ruined than those -of the other two entrances; the gap between the two summits including -the width of the entrance is only 8 ft. 6 in., the broken faces of the -upper portions of the walls rising perpendicularly on either side. - -[Illustration: North-West Entrance - -ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - -N^{o.} 3 Enclosure] - -This entrance is 2 ft. 9 in. wide in the centre. The wall on the west -side is perfect up to 5 ft. in height, and that on the east side to 6 -ft. 6 in. There are two steps on the outer side, and these are formed -by the courses in the foundation being carried across the entrance and -curved inwards at the centre of the passage. - -On either side of the entrance in the interior of the temple there are -plumb and angular buttresses of poor construction resting upon soft -soil. Each projects 5 ft. 6 in. into _No. 3 Enclosure_, and each is 1 -ft. 9 in. high, the width between their straight faces being 2 ft. 8 -in. Each buttress is rounded off on the outer side and joins the main -wall, that on the east side being 7 ft. long, and that on the west side -9 ft. 6 in. long. - -When Bent arrived at Zimbabwe in 1891 he found this entrance built -up to a height of 9 ft. This had then been done some fifty years -previously by the Makalanga when the previous Mogabe Chipfuno was -only a boy. This walling-up was for the purpose of closing in _No. 3 -Enclosure_, which was used as a cattle kraal. It is highly probable -that the Makalanga took the upper portions of the two buttresses which -are on either side of the inside of this entrance for building material -in so walling it up, for these buttresses, judging by the absence of -stone débris and the condition of the faces of the main wall where -the buttresses were once built up against it, appear to have been -deliberately denuded of their courses for at least some feet of their -original height. - -Bent removed the walling-up, but left its foundation in the entrance -at 2 ft. below which the paved passage and steps were unburied in -September, 1902. This foundation of the Makalanga wall was laid across -a pile of blocks thrown promiscuously on to the floor of this entrance, -and this again rested on soil black with charcoal, decomposed vegetable -matter, and bones of buck split open for the marrow, and this débris -contained broken articles of Makalanga make, but of superior quality to -those made by them to-day. - - -_The North Entrance_ - -This entrance is in the north-east wall of the temple, and its exit -faces north-east, twenty-five degrees, and is situated between the (523 -ft. 6 in.) and (536 ft.) points of the measurement of the inside base -of the main wall from the south side of the west entrance, and between -the [566 ft. 6 in.] and [571 ft. 6 in.] points of the measurement of -the outside base of the main wall from the south side of same entrance. -It has always been known as the North Entrance, as it is on the north -side of the centre of the temple. Bent terms it the North Entrance, as -do other writers, and in our description it will be so styled. - -Its massive size and excellent construction exceed those of any -other known ancient entrance, unless it be the West Entrance, which, -however, at present remains uncleared, and, except for the dilapidation -of the higher portions of its rounded sides, it is certainly the -best-preserved entrance so far discovered at Zimbabwe. Until November, -1902, the existence of its symmetrical and massive steps was altogether -unsuspected, for these and the outer face of the entrance had been -buried to a depth of 5 ft. in débris, the major portion of which could -not have been disturbed for apparently many scores of years. The -opening out of this entrance and also of the walled-in area immediately -in front and to the north of it has revealed another leading -architectural feature in addition to those already known at this -temple. Photographs of the North Entrance, as it previously appeared, -now only represent the tops of the side walls of the entrance. - -[Illustration: North or Main Entrance - -ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - -Zimbabwe] - -Though its outer side faces towards north-east, twenty-five degrees, -the entrance passage itself runs somewhat obliquely through the wall, -the south end being slightly more to the east than is the outer end, -and standing in the middle of the south end the line of passage further -to the north than does its outer face, and there is a view of the -eastern end of the Acropolis, the lower portion of which is at present -hidden by a pile of granite block débris removed from the interior of -the temple. - -The main walls on either side of the entrance are exceedingly massive -and exceptionally well built, the entrance and steps forming a -handsome piece of dry masonry, which reveals the artistic plan and -bold conception of the ancient architects, admirably executed by the -builders. On the east side the wall is 15 ft. 6 in. wide at the points -where the main wall starts to curve in forming the east side of the -entrance, and this measurement is taken at 13 ft. above the level of -the outside area. On the west side the main wall is 14 ft. 6 in. wide -at the points where the wall starts to curve in forming the west side -of this entrance, this measurement being taken at 12 ft. above the -level of the outside area. - -The entrance passage is 15 ft. 9 in. long. It is 7 ft. 10 in. wide at -the foot of the steps on the north side, and 12 ft. wide at the south -end between those points on either side where the walls start to curve -in forming the entrance. The steps occupy 4 ft. 4 in. of the north end -of the length of the passage, and the rest is paved level; but at the -south end the flooring is slightly uneven owing to roots having moved -some of the paving blocks. The level at the south end terminates in a -step-down, which runs from the south face of one side wall to the south -face of the other side wall. The present heights of the reduced -walls of the entrance are: east side, 7 ft. 6 in.; west side, 6 ft. 10 -in. - -[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF NORTH ENTRANCE TO ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - -(DISCOVERED 1903)] - -There are six rows of steps each 7 in. high, and each row in its centre -recedes 10 in. beyond the one below it, the row curving inwards at its -centre. The walls on either side of this entrance are not separate -walls, but a common foundation runs under both, forming the floor of -the passage, which floor is 3 ft. 4 in. higher than the level of the -outer area. - -The steps are formed by the courses of blocks of the outer face of the -wall on one side passing to the outer face of the wall on the opposite -side, where they are continued, making a curve inwards, each curve -receding with mathematical precision behind the curve in front. The -courses on either side assume a fan-like form, thus making the curved -courses of the steps wider in the middle than on the sides. The steps -were built before the side walls of the passage were erected, and their -marvellous regularity demonstrates the foresight of the builders. The -end blocks of each row are partly built into the walls on either side. -The courses in the main wall at this point are remarkably even and -correct, the courses on the one side corresponding with the courses on -the other. These steps are identical in measurement with all steps, so -far discovered, found built in any ancient wall of the oldest type of -ruin, and are of altogether different construction from those of the -angular and terraced ruins of the later period in which the angular -side walls of an entrance are first erected, and the steps afterwards -built in between them. - -Bent frequently refers to this entrance as the main entrance of the -temple. In so doing he is in all probability correct, though many of -the facts concerning it, which give it an importance not possessed by -either of the other two entrances, were then unknown to him. These were -discovered in November, 1902. But the fact that three passages—Parallel -Passage, Inner Parallel Passage, and South Passage—all converge -on this entrance shows that it must have possessed considerable -importance. But the recent clearing away of the débris to a depth of -some 6 ft. has revealed the lower portion of the entrance with its -well-constructed flight of steps, as well as the admirably proportioned -structure of the entrance, which can now be seen to be by far the -finest entrance to the temple. - -But the further discovery in November, 1902, of the long-buried -North-East Passage, and the clearing out of the Outer Parallel Passage, -both of which converge on the outer face of this entrance, have -disclosed the fact that an even greater importance attached to this -entrance than Bent or Sir John Willoughby could have supposed, for the -existence of the North-East Passage was unknown to them, seeing that -the summits of its side walls were buried at least 2 ft. under the -veld. This passage, with buried enclosures on either hand, has now been -cleared out for 108 yds., with traces of an extension for a further -70 yds. in a direct line towards the south-east Ancient Ascent to the -Acropolis, and as the large area, known as the “Valley of Ruins,” lies -along this route, and is connected with the passage by numerous side -passages and openings, the importance of the North Entrance is very -considerably enhanced, and Bent’s conjecture is shown to be fully -confirmed. - - - _Western Entrance_ - -This is the second largest entrance to the temple, and would appear -to have been of some importance. It is by the _West Entrance_ that -visitors now usually enter the building. The gateway opens directly -into _No. 5 Enclosure_. - -The entrance is situated between [827 ft. 9 in.] and [831 ft. 9 in.] on -the line of the measurement of the circumference of the exterior of the -building, which starts on the south side of the entrance, and between -(763 ft. 6 in.) and (766 ft. 6 in.) on the line of the measurement -of the circumference of the interior of the main wall, which also -starts on the south side of this entrance. (See _Main Wall_.) - -[Illustration: SUMMIT OF SOUTH-EAST MAIN WALL, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: WEST ENTRANCE FROM INTERIOR, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -The south side is formed by the boldly rounded end of the main -wall, which is here reduced in height to 7 ft. 6 in., or including -foundations to 11 ft. The reduced summit is 6 ft. 6 in. wide, and has -a batter of 8 in. At 10 ft. from the side wall the main wall rises -abruptly from 7 ft. to 22 ft. - -The north side is formed by the main wall, which has a rounded end. Its -height is 8 ft., but rises sharply to 20 ft. The reduced summit is 6 -ft. wide, and there is a batter of 10 in. on the face of the side wall. - -The passage-way is 4 ft. 2 in. wide between the rounded ends of the two -walls, and it has a total length of 20 ft. 6 in., 9 ft. 6 in. being -over the foundation and 11 ft. over the semi-circular platform, which -supports the two rounded buttresses on the inner side of the entrance. -Unlike the _Main Entrance_ this passage passes through the wall at -right angles. - -The semi-circular platform projects into _No. 5 Enclosure_ for 11 ft., -and upon it, and on either side of the entrance, are two buttresses, -that on the south side being 9 ft. high and 10 ft. wide at the back; -the one on the south side being very much dilapidated is now only 6 ft. -high on the north side and 6 ft. wide at back. These buttresses and the -platform are one structure, the courses in the buttresses are carried -across the passage in a semi-circular form, thus forming steps. - -The problem as to the entrance having ever been covered over is at -present an open one, and there is much to be said on either side. The -old men of the Amangwa state that it once had wooden beams across, and -that the entrance was blocked up with stones. The _North-West Entrance_ -was in 1891 found by Bent, who reopened it, to have also been built -up at a very late date, and so completely blocked. (See _Entrances_, -Chapter VII.) - -On the exterior, and on either side of the entrance, stood, till 1903, -very large débris heaps, each of which was at least 8 ft. high and -many yards in circumference. These on being removed were found to -represent several distinct occupations of the temple, and two-thirds of -their height was accounted for by native occupations and the removal -by explorers of débris from the interior of the building. The native -portion contained ashes and bones in large quantities, iron assegai -heads, hoes, brass and iron wire bangles, clay whorls, and ordinary -native pottery. Some few small relics were found in the soil which -had been taken from the temple. In the lowest portion, which was not -thicker than 18 in., were found phalli, splinters of soapstone beams, -excellent pottery, gold crucibles, beaten gold and gold wire. There -were several layers of ashes, but very few animal bones. The two heaps -had been piled up against the main wall. - - - - - CHAPTER XI - - THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - (_Continued_) - - ENCLOSURES NOS. 1 TO 7 - - - NO. 1 ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure is on the north side of the temple, the outer face of -its north-eastern wall being 18 ft. south-west of the _North Entrance_. -This is the most perfect of all the enclosures. It is roughly circular, -and there are no angular features in the body of the wall, though both -entrances have their outer corners squared. The area is: north to south -56 ft. 6 in., and east to west 55 ft. 6 in. - -The average height of the walls all round the enclosure is 7 ft. above -the present surface of the filled-in area. At the north-east end the -summit of the wall is 11 ft. above the bottom of an old hole excavated -at that point, and in the hole the foundation is exposed. On the -north-west side the summit of the wall is 9 ft. above the red cemented -floor of an old Makalanga hut which had solid clay sides. - -The walls are very substantial, being 5 ft. 6 in. wide and 4 ft. and 5 -ft. above the surface of the area, as it was before clearing operations -were commenced. - -There are two entrances, one on the north side and the other on the -east side. - -The north entrance leads from _No. 3 Enclosure_, and is 2 ft. 6 in. -wide, and its walls are rounded on the inside and angular on the -outside, the side walls being between 3 ft. and 4 ft. high. There are -four rows of steps, somewhat rudely constructed, each being about 10 -in. from front to back. A small parapet wall carries the steps from the -lower level of _No. 3 Enclosure_. - -The walls of the east entrance are rounded on the inside and angular -on the outside. The entrance is 2 ft. wide, 5 ft. long, with a level -floor for this length, the foundation being carried across the opening, -and the walls on either side are 4 ft. high. There is one step inside -at the end of the 5-ft. length, and one step outside from the floor of -_South Passage_. There are no portcullis grooves to this entrance. On -the inside of this entrance is a stone platform which might once have -carried buttresses. - -This enclosure has been subjected to the filling-in process more than -any other enclosure of the temple, probably because of its proximity -to the _North-West Entrance_ through which the material could easily -have been brought in from outside. On the present surface there are -remains of an old Makalanga hut, which must be more than sixty years -old, seeing that the Makalanga have not resided in the temple for over -that period. At a depth of from 1 ft. 6 in. to 2 ft. below this surface -the remains of a still very much older Makalanga hut have been exposed. -This was constructed of red clay, beautifully polished, the flooring -being on a very true level. This class of old huts had their clay -sides altogether independent of the roof, which was supported by poles -inserted at a distance of some inches from the outside of the walls. -(See _Architecture_—_Makalanga Huts_.) - -The only “finds” made here were fragments of large soapstone bowls -carved with herring-bone and cord patterns, small clay animals, assegai -heads, and pottery of old, but not ancient, design or make, and -comparatively recent native pottery. - -A drain passes through the west wall of this enclosure, and has a fall -into _No. 3 Enclosure_. - -Bent stated that this enclosure was not a portion of the original -building. There are indications that this conjecture is correct. The -walls are built without any regularity in courses and of stones of all -shapes and sizes, the west wall crossing over the foundations of an -older wall. - - - NO. 2 ENCLOSURE - -This is a pear-shaped enclosure at the north-north-west side of the -temple, and is built up immediately against the main outer wall from -(530 ft.) to (578 ft.), and is on the west side of the _North Entrance_. - -It is 47 ft. long from south-east to north-east, and 13 ft. wide from -north-east to south-west at its broadest part. - -From (560 ft.) to (565 ft.) the main wall is considerably broken, -having fallen outwards. It is between these points that there is a -narrow break in the foundations, which supports the view regarding the -reconstruction of the western wall at a later ancient period, a matter -dealt with in the description of the main wall, and in the Preface. - -This enclosure has only one entrance, and this is at the south-east -end. It has rounded walls, is 8 ft. long, 2 ft. 2 in. wide, and the -wall on the south-west is 4 ft. high, and that on the north-east side 7 -ft. high. The floor of this enclosure is between 2 ft. and 3 ft. below -the floor of the adjoining _North Entrance_, and there is one stone and -one cement step in the entrance passage of this enclosure. - -A substantial wall, 4 ft. to 8 ft. high, and 4 ft. wide at 4 ft. from -the ground, but evidently of later construction, is on the south side, -and separates this enclosure from _No. 3 Enclosure_, but it has a deep -depression on its summit, and is very considerably ruined for about 20 -ft. - -There is a drain-hole through the main wall at (545 ft.). - -This enclosure has suffered very considerably at the hands of -unauthorised searchers for ancient gold relics, some of the flooring -having been torn up, and the foundations of part of the southern wall -have been undermined. - -Here in a débris heap was found the large plain flat-rimmed soapstone -bowl which was lent by the late Rt. Hon. C. J. Rhodes to the South -African Museum at Cape Town. - - - NO. 3 ENCLOSURE - -This is the most north-westerly enclosure of the temple, the north-west -main wall from (590 ft.) to (660 ft.) forming its north-westerly -boundary. The south side is formed by _No. 1 Enclosure_, the west by -_No. 4 Enclosure_, and the north and east by _No. 2 Enclosure_. - -The area is keystone-shaped, being 76 ft. long on its north-west side, -45 ft. 6 in. on its west side, 71 ft. on the south side, and 50 ft. 6 -in. on the north and east side. - -The _North-West Entrance_ to the temple is at (606 ft. 6 in.) to (611 -ft. 6 in.) on the north-west side of the enclosure. (See _Main Wall, -North-West Entrance_, for description.) - -The entrance in the west wall between _Nos. 3 and 4 Enclosures_ was not -at the present gap in the débris of this wall, as the gap was made for -the convenience of visitors. The foundations of this wall end abruptly -at 25 ft. from its east end, this portion of the wall being in a fairly -good condition for 14 ft., and being from 3 ft. to 6 ft. high. - -The entrance to _No. 1 Enclosure_ is in the south wall at 45 ft. to 49 -ft. from the west wall. - -The east entrance has rounded sides, is 2 ft. wide, and the side walls -are 4 ft. high. This entrance leads from _South Passage_, and is -immediately inside the _North Entrance_ to the temple. - -A drain from _No. 1 Enclosure_ is in the angle formed by the west and -south walls. - -Possibly this enclosure was once subdivided, but when mediæval and even -later Makalanga occupied the temple for their residence and cattle -kraal the sub-divisional walls were removed. That this portion of -the temple was used for this purpose is demonstrated both by “finds” -and the condition of the enclosure, and these support the native -assertion to this effect. The remains of a wall runs north-west from -the south-west corner of the enclosure towards the west side of the -_North-West Entrance_. This is 16 ft. long, 2 ft. high, and 3 ft. 6 in. -wide. A second wall is believed to have once stood between the west -side of the entrance to _No. 1 Enclosure_ and the north and east side -wall. - -[Illustration: Nos. 3 & 4 ENCLOSURES AND WEST MAIN WALL, ELLIPTICAL -TEMPLE] - -At (640 ft.) is a long granite slab, which has evidently fallen from -the summit of the main wall. Probably it was a tie or “through” stone, -as the summit of the main wall had been bonded with similar stones. - -In the angle formed by the north-east and north-west walls are -the remains of a large rounded buttress now only 2 ft. high. -Possibly this might be one of the platforms with “blind steps” (see -_Architecture_—_Blind Steps_) which are found in the angles in several -of the temple enclosures. - -This enclosure appears to have been filled in with stones and earth at -a very late period, as the filling-in contains at all depths portions -of Makalanga pottery and lumps of iron slag. The ancient floor is -believed to be some 2 ft. below the present surface. - - - NO. 4 ENCLOSURE - -This is the most westerly of the temple enclosures. Its form resembles -that of a keystone with the broad side on the west main wall, along the -inside of which it extends for 67 ft. from (666 ft.) to (730 ft.) - -It is bounded on the north side by the divisional wall separating -it from _No. 3 Enclosure_, and this side is 47 ft. 6 in. long. This -wall extends from the outer face of the west portion of the wall of -_No. 1 Enclosure_ for 14 ft., from which it is in a good state of -preservation, except for reduction in height, it being now only between -4 ft. and 6 ft., while the rest of the wall is ruined, and is lost in a -line of débris which marks where the wall once stood. At the west end -of this débris are a few blocks still retaining their position, and -these show where the north wall joined the main wall. As on the north -side of this wall, where there is now no trace of entrance between -_Nos. 2 and 3 Enclosures_, so is it on its south side, where the face -of the wall is even more ruined than on the opposite side. - -On the south side this enclosure is bounded by the divisional wall -between it and _No. 5 Enclosure_. This wall is 58 ft. long, and bends -southwards in the middle of its length for 5 ft. from a line between -the two extremities of the wall. At the east end of the wall it is 6 -ft. high for 5 ft. in length, when it is reduced to 2 ft. with débris -3 ft. higher lying along the summit. The west end of the wall is very -poorly built, and as this enclosure has also been used by the Makalanga -as a cattle kraal, probably finding the wall broken down at its -western end, they rebuilt it in order to keep in the cattle. The wall -throughout is built on a raised cement foundation only slightly wider -than the wall itself. - -Though there is at present no trace of any entrance between this and -_No. 5 Enclosure_, there are reasons for believing that traces of one -may be discovered near the spot where a large fig tree grows on the -line of wall. - -The east side is 33 ft. in length, and is formed for 10 ft. from the -north side by the west outer face of the wall of _No. 1 Enclosure_, -which is here 11 ft. high; for the following 12 ft. by the opening into -the _West Passage_ which runs parallel to the south-west and west sides -of _No. 1 Enclosure_; and for 13 ft. by the outer and west face of the -_West Passage_, the wall of which is 10 ft. high, and is well built, -substantial, and in a good state of preservation. - -The whole of the interior of this enclosure has been deliberately -and rudely filled in with soil, débris, also with stones which have -fallen into it, and for almost 2 ft. in depth it is covered with rich -vegetable mould. [This latter was removed in 1903.] - - - NO. 5 ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure is immediately inside the _West Entrance_ to the temple, -the western and south-western main wall forming its boundary on those -sides from (735 ft.) to (760 ft.) on the north side of the entrance, -and from (0 ft.) to (100 ft.) on the south side of the entrance, thus -making its length on the side of the main wall to be 130 ft. - -The area was once subdivided, but at present it is difficult to say -exactly where the sub-divisional walls ran, though the faint traces of -these are to be seen in several directions, but all appear to radiate -from the eastern side of the enclosure towards the inside face of the -main wall. - -The north side is 59 ft. long, the south wall of _No. 4 Enclosure_ -being its northern boundary. The face of this wall at its eastern -extremity is well built, but the western portion of it is very poorly -constructed. The probable cause of this difference in the building of -the wall was explained in the description of _No. 4 Enclosure_, and -also in the Preface. - -The eastern side for 36 ft. in length from the north side is formed -by a very well-built wall which forms the southern extremity of _West -Passage_. This wall is now only 6 ft. in height, but the great amount -of wall-débris lying at its bases suggests that it was once some 7 -ft. higher. It is 6 ft. wide on its present summit. From this point -to the southern end of the enclosure the rest of the eastern side is -open space, with traces of substantial wall foundations all along this -length. The total length of the eastern side of this enclosure is 93 ft. - -The south side, which is 37 ft. long, is formed by faint traces of a -wall which divides this area from _No. 6 Enclosure_, extending from the -west outer side of _No. 7 Enclosure_ to the main wall. - -The width at the centre of this enclosure from east to west is 57 ft. - -A flat granite monolith stands at 30 ft. north-east of the north -buttress of the _West Entrance_ with a flat face towards the west. It -rises from the ground 6 ft. 9 in., is 3 ft. broad, narrowing to 1 ft. -10 in. at the top. It is 3 in. thick, and leans slightly towards the -east. No artificial markings can be discovered on either of its faces. - -A triangular-shaped granite beam stands 2 ft. 11 in. above the ground -at 26 ft. north-east of the south buttress of the _West Entrance_. A -fractured portion of the beam, until lately buried, lies near. This -section is 8 ft. 2 in. long. Twelve years ago this beam was complete. -It then had a tilt towards the north, and its base must be deep to have -supported its heavy weight in a leaning position. - -Other sections of fractured granite monoliths were buried at this -spot; one set of sections exceed together 8 ft., without taking into -consideration a section which is missing. - -The latest floor of this enclosure is at least 2 ft. below the present -surface, the soil on the top being vegetable mould thickly matted with -roots of wild vines and other creepers. [In August, 1903, this top soil -was removed from the whole area. Several pieces of beaten gold and some -Arabian glass were found lying on the hard soil underneath it.] - - - NO. 6 ENCLOSURE - -This adjoins _No. 5 Enclosure_, which forms its western boundary. The -south side is formed by the south main wall of the temple from (100 -ft.) to (179 ft. 3 in.). The north and north-east side is formed by -the south wall of _No. 7 Enclosure_. This wall is from 5 ft. to 11 -ft. high. The eastern side is formed by the west wall of the _Sacred -Enclosure_, which is from 8 ft. to 11 ft. high. - -The measurements of this area are: south side, 79 ft.; north side, 58 -ft.; east side, 22 ft.; and west side, 31 ft. - -This enclosure has two entrances. Probably another entrance may be -discovered on the western side on the removal of débris. - -The northern entrance is at 35 ft. to 37 ft., measuring from the -eastern end of the north wall. This leads into _No. 7 Enclosure_. It -has rounded walls, and the floor forms part of the foundation. There -are no portcullis grooves. - -The eastern entrance is at 13 ft. to 15 ft., measuring from the north -end of the east wall. This leads into the _Sacred Enclosure_. Its walls -are rounded, and there are portcullis grooves. The steps are built into -the wall. On either side of the entrance there are traces of rounded -buttresses. - -Monkey-rope roots have done serious injury to the eastern end of the -north wall, and have caused a depression of 5 ft. from the average -height of the reduced wall. - -This enclosure is interesting because it showed three floors below the -soil surface. On removing the mould which form the top surface for a -depth of 1 ft. to 2 ft., was found the common red clay foundation of -a Makalanga hut, about which lay iron hoes, assegai-heads, and also -pottery of no great age. Below this, for a further depth of 1 ft. to 1 -ft. 6 in., was a promiscuous filling-in of blocks and soil, and below -this again was a very hard soil, probably of decomposed cement, and on -this hard surface was a pile of about 20 lbs. weight of portions of -pottery scorifiers and small crucibles, all of which showed gold richly -on the flux. These had evidently been piled up as rubbish, for they -were all found within an area of 2 sq. ft., and no other portions of -scorifiers or crucibles were found elsewhere in this enclosure. A pair -of iron pincers made of two pieces of iron welded together at one end, -an iron gong, and a soapstone amulet were discovered together, while -on the lowest floor was a portion of a large soapstone bowl carved -with herring-bone on cord pattern, and the fractured bases of what are -believed to be true phalli. This lowest floor is 9 in. deeper than the -one on which the gold crucibles were found, and is made of whitish -cement, and has been exposed for about 4 sq. ft. in the north-east -corner of the enclosure at 11 ft. below the summit of the east wall. - -The reconstruction of the north wall at its eastern end is very -conspicuous. This reconstruction is referred to in the description of -_No. 7 Enclosure_. - -In the soil débris pile, which had been removed from _No. 7 Enclosure_ -into this enclosure in 1891 by Bent, was (in August, 1902) found a -piece of glass, being the lip portion of a bowl. This had bosses on its -surface, with gold rims round each boss, indicating that the upper part -of the neck of this bowl was once covered with gold enamel. This glass -is believed to be identical with that found by Sir John Willoughby, -and pronounced by authorities at the British Museum to belong to the -thirteenth century. - - - NO. 7 ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure is on the south side of the temple, the south and -south-west wall running for 55 ft. parallel with the main wall at a -distance of about 21 ft. This enclosure, next to _No. 1 Enclosure_, is -in the best state of preservation of any chamber within the temple. -Its area is 54 ft. 6 in. from north to south, and 39 ft. from east -to west, and its form resembles a quarter section of a circle, with -its rounded side extending from south-west to north, the centre of -which quarter-circle is at the south-south-east end of the area. The -present surface of the area is very uneven, owing to the operations of -excavators and searchers for relics. - -There are two entrances still more or less intact, one on the -south-west side leading into _No. 6 Enclosure_, and the other at the -north corner, but facing west. Possibly there was also an entrance on -the east side, where a gigantic fig tree, 50 ft. high, now stands. - -The south-west entrance (see section) is protected on the inside by -rounded buttresses on either side, which project 2 ft. 6 in. into -the enclosure. These buttresses, of which only the lower courses now -remain, are built upon, and at each end of, a semi-circular base 11 ft. -long protruding 4 ft. 6 in. into the enclosure, the face courses of -which curve inwards, one above and behind, the other between the side -buttresses, and so form steps up to the entrance, the courses above -the steps being carried round the buttresses. There are no traces of -portcullis grooves. This is a form of steps found in the entrances -through the main wall of the temple, and in the entrances in many -ruins of the oldest or first-period style of architecture, whether at -Zimbabwe or elsewhere in the country. - -[Illustration: WEST ENTRANCE TO No. 7 ENCLOSURE, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: SOUTH WALL OF No. 7 ENCLOSURE, SHEWING PART (TO LEFT) -RECONSTRUCTED, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -The north entrance is of exactly similar construction, but is in a -better state of preservation, the one buttress remaining being still 5 -ft. high. This entrance has portcullis grooves. - -The best-built portion of the walls of this enclosure is undoubtedly -that of the curved wall which extends from south-west to north. This is -a fine piece of work, and the face of the wall is very regular. This -wall is from 11 ft. to 13 ft. high on the inside, and 11 ft. to 14 ft. -high on the outside, and is 4 ft. 6 in. wide in its present summit, the -line of which is even except at its extremities. Judging by the block -débris, this wall might once have been fully 2 ft. to 3 ft. higher. -The centre of the outward curve of the wall is 11 ft. west from a line -drawn between the extreme points of the curve. - -The south wall may be divided into two sections, the westerly portion -being well built, and the easterly portion very poorly constructed, -having numerous straight joints, disappearing and false courses, and is -built of stones of all sizes and shapes. This latter part is evidently -a reconstruction at a later date and on the old foundations. Where the -joint was made between the old and the later walls is very clearly -discernible, while there is a deep depression in the summit of the wall -at this point. These depressions almost always exist in joints between -old and later walls. This wall is 32 ft. long, between 8 ft. and 9 ft. -high, and is 4 ft. wide on its reduced summit. - -The eastern side is in four lengths: (1) a small portion of wall in -the south-east corner 6 ft. long, 6 ft. high, and 4 ft. wide; (2) a -gap of 14 ft., evidently made by past and present trees; (3) a wall 7 -ft. high, 13 ft. long, and 3 ft. wide on its summit (the lower portion -of this section is built up against (4), but in the upper section it -is built into it); and (4) a wall 16 ft. long, 9 ft. high, 4 ft. wide -on summit. This wall has been partly ruined at its western end by the -roots of a large tree. - -The connection between sections (3) and (4) where the lower portion -of (3) is built up against and is independent of (4), while the -upper portion of (3) is built and bonded into and forms part of (4), -has an exact parallel in the west wall of _Recess Enclosure_ on the -_Acropolis_, where the lower portions of two walls are independent of -each other, but their higher portions are bonded and built as one wall. - -In August, 1902, some thirty tons of explorers’ débris of old date -were removed from this enclosure, and a floor of granite cement was -disclosed at its south end, in the middle of which, and forming part of -the cement work, is a raised circular platform 7 in. high, 16 ft. 10 -in. in circumference, and with rounded sides. Close to it was found a -rounded piece of diorite extensively marked with hammerings, as if it -had been used for an anvil. - -Along the base of the south wall is a cemented edging 6 in. high, 17 -ft. long, with rounded edges, protruding 8 in. to 12 in. from the wall. -In the south corner are two blind steps made of granite cement (see -_Architecture_—_Blind Steps_). - - - - - CHAPTER XII - - THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - (_Continued_) - - Sacred Enclosure—Conical Tower—Small Tower—Parallel Passage. - - No. 8 - - - THE SACRED ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure, which contains the _Conical Tower_ and the now ruined -“_Little Cone_,” lies on the south-east of the temple area, the main -east wall from south-east to east-north-east being its eastern boundary -from (186 ft.) to (315 ft). - -In shape it is long and narrow, the _Conical Tower_ practically -dividing the area into two almost equal sections: _Sacred Enclosure_ -(_east_), and _Sacred Enclosure_ (_west_). - -The length of this enclosure measured along the inside face of the main -wall is 129 ft. 2 in. The northern side is formed by sections of walls -which in the main run parallel with the south wall of the temple. The -northern sections of walls are at the following distances from the main -wall: at the extreme west 25 ft.; at (186 ft.) 31 ft.; on either side -of the _Conical Tower_ 26 ft.; at (300 ft.) 17 ft.; and at the extreme -east 5 ft, this last portion for 13 ft. being greatly narrowed by large -buttresses on either side up to the entrance of the _Parallel Passage_. - -The northern wall sections commencing at the west end are as follows:— - -A wall 28 ft. long forming the south wall of _No. 11 Enclosure_. The -first section of 20 ft. is indifferently built, but the last 8 ft. well -constructed. The joint between the two classes of walls is obvious, -and the inferior wall is considerably dilapidated at its western end, -especially at the western entrance. The highest portion is 9 ft. 6 in. -above the present surface of the interior. - -The second section is the south wall of _The Platform_, which rounds -on a length of 24 ft. into _Sacred Enclosure_ (_west_) for 7 ft., and -recedes again directly north of the _Conical Tower_. This rounded wall -is exceedingly well built. Its summit is practically level, and its -height is 11 ft. to 14 ft., according to the rise and fall of the floor -or steps of the enclosure. - -The third section is a wall 48 ft. long, extending from north of the -_Conical Tower_ to the entrance of the _Parallel Passage_. From the -south side of this wall, and just inside the north entrance, is a -wall 13 ft. high, 5 ft. wide, narrowing as the _Conical Tower_ is -approached, projecting towards the north-east side of the _Conical -Tower_. The last 27 ft. of this third section is evidently of a later -period construction. The joint of the older and later walls is very -clearly defined, and there is a depression on the summit at this point. -The height of the wall varies from 14 ft. to 16 ft. - -The _Sacred Enclosure_ has four entrances—south-west, west, north, and -east. - -The south-west entrance is from _No. 6 Enclosure_. This has rounded -walls and portcullis grooves, and is 5 ft. high on either side, 2 ft. -wide, and runs through a wall 4 ft. 10 in. thick. On the inside of -this entrance are the remains of steps which relic prospectors have -destroyed. The floor of the entrance is 4 ft. above the floor of the -enclosure. - -The western entrance, which leads from _No. 9 Enclosure_, is also -rounded, and had portcullis grooves, and its floor was once paved with -cement. This entrance is in a very dilapidated condition, owing to -trees and creepers. - -The north or main entrance to this enclosure is rounded on either side, -and has portcullis grooves. It is 2 ft. 10 in. wide, and is directly -north of the _Conical Tower_, between which and this entrance the -floor is substantially paved with cement, and has cement steps leading -down into the enclosure on the west side of the _Conical Tower_. - -[Illustration: VISITORS’ LADDER TO SUMMIT OF MAIN WALL, ELLIPTICAL -TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: THE SMALL CONICAL TOWER, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -The east entrance leads from the _Parallel Passage_, and measurements -of it are given in the description of that passage. - -The buttresses on either side of the inner side of the eastern entrance -have not the appearance of being ancient, unless they had once -collapsed and been roughly rebuilt at a much later period. - -The eastern section of this enclosure has been cleared of débris down -to the level of a yellow granite cement floor. In several places this -flooring has been destroyed by roots of both past and present trees of -great size. This section appears to have had to absorb all rainfall -from the south-east area of the temple, as this enclosure is at a much -lower level than the adjoining enclosures, and this may account for -the decomposition at some points of the cement floor. The clearing to -the cement floor has also been carried round the base of the _Conical -Tower_, which now stands upon an almost level floor. The spot where -Bent sank the hole through the cement can plainly be seen on the south -side of the tower. The clearing also disclosed a granite cement step -at the north entrance with a level cement floor on the inner side -between it and the north side of the tower. This floor is 2 ft. above -the cement floor round the base of the tower, from which raised floor -two granite steps between the tower and _The Platform_ lead down to the -floor of the western section of the enclosure. - -In the western section the floor along the base of the main wall is -buried in débris to a depth of 1 ft. 6 in. to 5 ft. From the base -of the northern wall of this section to the centre of the area is a -cemented floor laid on a pavement of blocks, but in some places the -cement has become decomposed. In the west corner of this section of the -enclosure is a floor raised 3 ft. above the cement floor, but this is -very roughly built, and appears to have been a filling-in by some late -occupiers of the temple. On the east side of this raised floor, and -acting as its retaining wall on that side, are the remains of a wall -4 ft. high and 4 ft. wide projecting from the reconstructed portion -of the north wall, and most probably of even a later date than the -obviously reconstructed wall, seeing that it is built up against it. - -In the angle formed by the 28-ft. section of the north wall of the -western area and the wall of _The Platform_ is a set of “blind -steps,” two in number, and with a platform 8 ft. by 6 ft. square, -the steps and the platform being covered with granite cement (see -_Architecture_—_Blind Steps_). - -Small portions of granite cement are to be found in the joints of -the blocks of the main wall up to a height of 7 ft., and also to -a similar height on the north wall of the eastern section of this -enclosure, while in the angle of this latter wall and the buttress -built up against it are the remains of a granite cement dado (see -_Architecture_—_Cement Dadoes_). - - - THE CONICAL TOWER[52] - -This celebrated tower, which forms one of the chief architectural -features of the Zimbabwe ruins, stands in the centre of the Sacred -Enclosure, dividing it into two areas. The south-east of the tower is 3 -ft. 10 in. from the main wall of the temple (at 255 ft.) from the south -side of the west entrance. It is 31 ft. high on its south-east face; 30 -ft. on the south-west side; 26 ft. 6 in. on its north-east side; and -29 ft. on the north-west side. These measurements are taken from the -actual foundation, which is only a few inches below the granite cement -flooring surrounding its base on all sides but the north. The average -height of the reduced summit of the tower in 1894 was 32 ft., and it -was then far more level than as seen to-day. Bent believed the original -height to have been 35 ft., at which point he thought it once had a -level top, 4 ft in diameter. Photographs taken in 1891 give a very good -impression of what the tower was like previous to the dilapidation, -which took place immediately after that time. - -It is difficult to state the exact circumference of the base throughout -the extent of the foundations, as a granite cement raised floor, with -steps, is constructed up against the base of the north side, but it may -be taken to be about 57 ft. 6 in. The measurements of the circumference -of the tower at different heights are as follows: at 5 ft. above floor -53 ft. 8 in.; at 10 ft., 50 ft. 4 in.; at 15 ft., 46 ft. 1 in.; at -20 ft., 39 ft.; at 25 ft., 32 ft.; at 27 ft. 6 in. (where the broken -portion of the summit commences), 30 ft. 2 in. The average battering -back of the tower, so far as the broken edges of the present summit -will permit of approximately correct measurements being taken, is, at -the following heights, as follows: at 10 ft. above floor 1 ft. 7 in.; -at 15 ft., 1 ft. 10 in.; at 20 ft., 2 ft. 6 in.; at 25 ft., 4 ft. 2 -in.; and at 27 ft., 5 ft. 5 in. - -The battering is far more regular on the west and south sides, where it -is also a few inches less severe. To secure the inclining back of the -sides of the cone, the blocks from front to back on its circumference -are laid on the flat on a dead level, and yet so slightly do the blocks -of one course lie back beyond the edge of the faces of the blocks -of the course below that, except at one or two points, it is almost -impossible to notice where the batter takes place. Even the blocks in -the bulge on the north side have been ascertained to be still perfectly -level. - -There is a slight bulging on the east and north-east sides at 10 ft. -to 15 ft. above the floor, and this somewhat reduces the extent of -battering-back on those sides at that height. This bulging creates an -optical delusion, for visitors almost always declare that the tower has -tilted slightly to the north-east. But this tilting has now been proved -not to exist. There are many causes which may have brought about -the bulging. A large branch of hard-wood tree, the trunk of which is -believed to have been over one hundred years old, had for years, even -in light breezes, scraped up and down this side of the tower, and also -it was on this side that most of the monkey rope, creepers, and bushes -were growing out of the crevices of the tower from base to summit. - -The foundations are exceedingly shallow, being only some 10 in. to 18 -in. below the granite cement flooring. The foundation of the main wall -near this point is only 10 in. below the same flooring. The lowest -course of blocks of the tower is of the average size of the blocks used -in the face of the structure. These rest on what was originally granite -cement, but which, with the dripping of storm water for centuries -down the large area of the face of the tower, has now become mere -yellow sand. This, however, remains very firm, and still makes a good -foundation. The foundations have not at any point sunk below their -original level, but there are evidences that its enormous weight has -caused the tower to settle firmly on to its bed. - -The present reduced summit of the tower, where it is intact, slants -down from the west and south and south-east edges some 4 ft. towards -the north-east, but the block débris on the summit only slants for 2 -ft. in the same direction. In the centre of the summit is a hole sunk -down into the top of the tower some 4 ft. It will be remembered that -Dr. Karl Mauch (1871) admitted having made this hole for the purpose -of ascertaining whether the tower was solid. The hole was once much -deeper, but debris has filled it up to 4 ft. from the summit. Mauch -also made a second hole in the west face of the tower at 5 ft. from -the floor. This also showed the tower to be solid. Theodore Bent -(1891) also made a hole for a similar purpose. This is on the south -face, and extends from the foundation to 4 ft. above the flooring, and -he pronounced the tower to be perfectly solid. A certain Rhodesian, -bent, as he confessed, on finding “The Treasure Chamber”(!), made -another hole on the east side, at 5 ft. from the ground, and with the -same result, but this hole is so neatly built up afresh that it can -only just be located. The hole made by Mauch remained unbuilt up until -1902, and several courses above it have consequently sagged. In 1902 a -thin wire rod inserted in this last hole and passed through joints of -internal dry masonry for 8 ft. towards the centre showed the tower to -be solid. - -The dentelle pattern, which Mauch stated ran round the eastern portion -of the summit of the tower, is now represented by only ten blocks. -These form three sets of double courses of the dentelle pattern, as -on the summit of the eastern face of the Eastern Temple on the hill, -and two blocks of a lower course more to the east, and two loose -dentelle blocks lying on the summit of the tower. One extremity of the -pattern was undoubtedly, as can be seen on close inspection, facing -the south-east, but it extended some little distance round towards the -east, but how far it is now quite impossible to ascertain. Mauch owned -to having destroyed a portion of the pattern in making the hole on the -summit. - -The pattern was formed by two rows of wedge-shaped blocks placed to -project 2 in. beyond the face of the wall, while above them, just as in -the dentelle patterns elsewhere, were placed heavy blocks and throughs -or ties, as if to bind effectively the stones forming the patterns, -as the introduction of a decorative pattern in ancient walls anywhere -in Rhodesia can be seen to have proved a point of weakness in the -durability of the faces of the walls. The summit of the tower has been -greatly dilapidated by small trees and bushes growing on the top, the -stumps and roots of which can still be seen. - -The best idea of the symmetry and accuracy of the contour of the tower -can be obtained by standing on the summit of the main wall, near the -top of the visitors’ ladder. - - - THE SMALL TOWER - -The base of this stands in _Sacred Enclosure_ (_east_), at 5 ft. 2 in. -north-east of the large tower. Its circumference at the cement floor -is 21 ft. 7 in. At 4 ft. above the floor it has a circumference of 19 -ft. 10 in., the dilapidation not being so serious as to prevent this -measurement being taken. The present reduced height is as follows: west -side, 3 ft. 2 in.; south side, 4 ft. 6 in.; east side, 6 ft. 6 in.; and -north side, 5 ft. 3 in. - -Unfortunately this tower, which Bent proved to have been solid, has, -within the last few years, been subject to serious dilapidation. -Photographs taken in 1894 are now but a record of the appearance of -this tower at that time, for now, on comparing the photographs with the -tower, they have become obsolete. A large branch of the tall hard-wood -tree, which stands 3 ft. from the east side of this tower, had thrown -over the summit on to the floor on the west side, and in 1902 nothing -of the tower was left save the outer face of the wall, the internal -blocks having been taken out by some unauthorised relic prospectors. -These were replaced, and all the blocks which belong to the tower -preserved. - -Bent (p. 115) states:— - - “The religious purport of these towers would seem to be - conclusively proved by the numerous finds we made in other - parts of the ruins of a phallic nature, and I think a quotation - from Montfaucon’s _L’Antiquité Expliquée_ will give us the - keynote of the worship: ‘The ancients assure us that all the - Arabians worshipped a tower, which they called El Acara, - or Alquetila, which was built by their patriarch, Ismael,’ - ‘Maximus of Tyre says they honoured as a great god a great - cut-stone. This is apparently the same stone resembling Venus, - according to Euthymius Zygabenus. When the Saracens were - converted to Christianity they were obliged to anathematise - this stone, which formerly they worshipped.’ This tower (at - Zimbabwe) doubtless corresponded to the sacred tower of the - Midianites, called Penuel, or the ‘Face of God,’ which Gideon - destroyed (Judges viii. 7). Allusions to these towers are - constant in the Bible, and the Arabian historian, El Masoudi - (940 A.D.), further tells us that this stone or tower was eight - cubits high, and was placed in an angle of the temple, which - had no roof. Turning to Phœnician temple construction, we have - a good parallel to the ruins of the Great Zimbabwe at Byblos - (in Phœnicia), as depicted on the coins; the tower, or sacred - cone, is set up within the temple precincts, and shut off in - an enclosure. Similar work is also found in the round temples - of the Cabiri, at Hadjar Kem, in Malta, and the construction - of these buildings bears a remarkable resemblance to that of - those at Zimbabwe, and the round towers, or nuraghs, found - in Sardinia may possibly be of similar significance. MM. - Perrot and Chapiez, in their _History of Art in Sardinia_, - speak of these nuraghs as forts or temples, around which the - primitive inhabitants of the island once lived. They are - truncated cones, built with stone blocks of different sizes, - narrowing at the top. The stones are unhewn as a rule, and - laid on without mortar. Here, too, we have a parallel for our - monoliths, mention of unhewn stone, and also for the phalli, - specimens of which are to be found carved on stone, and here, - too, the intricate plan of the fortresses suggests at once a - parallel to those at Zimbabwe; hence it would appear that the - same influence was at work in Sardinia as in South Africa. In - Lucian’s _De Syria Dea_ we find a description of a temple at - Hierapolis, in Mesopotamia, in the propylæa of which, he tells - us (p. 16), ‘there stood two very large phalli, about thirty - cubits high.’ Our tower at Zimbabwe stood apparently twenty - cubits high, and ten in diameter. He further says (p. 29), - ‘these phalli are solid, for when a priest had to ascend he had - to put a rope round himself and walk up.’” - -Dr. Schlichter, 1898, remarks:— - - “We have in the Great Zimbabwe an enormous gnomon (dial - calculating point) before us, comprising a total angle of - 120°. Taking all the details into account, I found that the - obliquity of the ecliptic was somewhat more than 23° 52´, which - brings us (considering that we have a good Chinese observation - of the same period) to a time somewhat 1100 B.C. for the - erection of the Zimbabwe ruins.”[53] - - - THE PARALLEL PASSAGE - -This passage, which is one of the most interesting features of ancient -architecture at Zimbabwe, is 220 ft. long, and extends from (329 ft.) -from the _West Entrance_ to (513 ft.) from the same point, and runs -along the inside of the east and north-east of the main wall of the -temple, that is, from the _Sacred Enclosure_ to the _North Entrance_ of -the temple. - -The ancient priests could by means of this long, deep, and exceedingly -narrow passage reach the _Sacred Enclosure_ from the exterior of the -temple altogether unobserved, seeing that along its whole length it has -no communication with any other part of the interior of the temple. It -is therefore possible that this passage might have been exclusively -used by the ministers of the sacred rites. In it have been found the -bulk of the phalli yet discovered at Zimbabwe, and a number of both -plain and decorated phalli were found here in August, 1902, when the -débris which had covered its floor was being removed. The same surmise -might be made with regard to the purpose of the _Parallel Passage_ at -the _Western Temple_ on the _Acropolis_. - -The summit of the main wall on the outer side throughout the length -of the passage averages from 28 ft. to 31 ft. above its present floor -(see _Tables of Measurements of Main Walls_). The inner parallel wall -varies in height, owing to dilapidations caused by past and present -trees. This wall averages from 8 ft. to 16 ft. in height. The long -and narrow passage between such high walls imparts a most weird and -romantic aspect to this portion of the temple. The high, magnificently -sweeping, and massive walls tower on either side for a considerable -distance on a bold masterly curve that displays in the well-built -and regular courses of the walls design and workmanship which always -strongly impress the modern builder with unfeigned surprise and wonder. - -[Illustration: THE PARALLEL PASSAGE, FROM SOUTH, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -At the extremity near the _Sacred Enclosure_ the passage is 4 ft. wide, -but at 30 ft. further north-east it is 3 ft. 6 in. wide, at 55 ft. it -narrows to 2 ft. 6 in., which width is maintained for about 40 ft., at -the end of which it widens out owing to the inner parallel wall being -here built upon a comparatively straight line. At (440 ft.) it is 4 ft. -6 in. wide, at (460 ft.) 5 ft. 6 in. wide, at (480 ft.) 7 ft., and at -(513 ft.), which is its northern extremity, it narrows to 2 ft. 6 in. -Between (490 ft.) and (513 ft.) there is a large gap in the main wall, -where its inner face has collapsed into the passage. The bottom of the -gap is about 6 ft. above the present level of the passage floor. - -[Illustration: _West Entrance to_ PARALLEL PASSAGE Elliptical Temple] - -Between (349 ft.) and (362 ft.) the inner parallel wall has collapsed -into the passage, but the débris has now been cleared away. Between -(470 ft.) and (500 ft.) the inner wall has been reduced by falls to a -height of only 6 ft. 9 in. - -The north wall of the _Sacred Enclosure_ (_east_) is continued for -55 ft. as the west wall of the passage. This section is obviously -a reconstruction of a later date, the joints with this wall and the -rest of the older and better-built wall at the south end can be seen -near the small conical tower in the _Sacred Enclosure_, the opposite -side of this joint being distinctly noticeable in _No. 11 Enclosure_. -The joint at the north-eastern end of this reconstructed section of -wall can be seen near (375 ft.), where the older wall recommences. -This less excellently reconstructed wall shows a far greater amount -of dilapidation than does the older portion. This circumstance is to -be noticed in more than a score of other instances of reconstruction -of lengths of older walls, the invariable experience in Zimbabwe -architecture being that the reconstructed portions are much less -lasting, although they are of later date, and these reconstructions -always show a depression in their summits at the joints with the older -portions of the wall. - -The entrance into this passage from the _Sacred Enclosure_ is the east -entrance mentioned in the description of that enclosure, and is at (320 -ft.). It is formed by rounded buttresses, 7 ft. high, on either side of -the passage. The entrance is 2 ft. 6 in. wide, 9 ft. long (including -the steps at either end), and has portcullis grooves of unusually large -size. It is approached from the _Sacred Enclosure_ by three large, -broad, and deep block steps, which are still in a very good state of -preservation, not one block being missing or even out of place. The -floor is excellently paved with blocks. On the passage side of the -entrance are three block steps also in a splendid condition, but these -are narrower, as the rounded foundation of the west buttress projects 7 -in. into the passage further than the upper portion of the buttress. - -Immediately inside this entrance, and against the base of the main -wall, is a raised level with rounded edges made of granite cement. -This is 7 ft. long, 1 ft. 10 in. wide, and 3 in. higher than cement -flooring, and 6 in. high at its north-east end above a step-down in the -floor. Between this raised cement level and the west wall of the -passage is a cemented floor 4 ft. 4 in. long, with a rounded face at -its north-east end, this face forming the step-down just mentioned. The -floor from this point northwards to (335 ft.) has been broken through -by excavators, but from (335 ft.) northwards to (425 ft.) the cement -flooring still remains intact. From (425 ft.) to the northern end of -the passage the floor has been torn up by explorers. - -Evidently the ancients were thoroughly well versed in the art of -sanitation, for the lengths of cemented flooring are divided into -catchment areas, separated from each other by raised step-barriers 4 -in. high, 3 ft. 10 in. broad, laid across the passage. These are made -of granite cement and have rounded edges. The floor has a slight fall -on either side of these raised barriers, and in the lowest part of -each area is a drain-hole passing through the main wall, the object -evidently being to divide up the rainfall so that each drain should -only have such a quantity of water as its capacity would allow it to -carry off. The drain-holes passing outwards and downwards through the -main walls are at (352 ft.), (391 ft. 6 in.), (442 ft.), and (471 ft.). -These are believed to have once been lined with yellow granite cement. -It is possible that other drains from this passage-way may yet be found. - -Near (396 ft.) is a drain-hole leading into the passage from _No. 14 -Enclosure_. - -The floor at the extreme north end of the passage has not yet been -uncovered, as it would be unsafe to remove any more depth of soil owing -to the threatening condition of the wall at the gap before mentioned. - -Near (338 ft.) is a flat granite beam 6 ft. long, which has evidently -fallen from the summit of the main wall. - -The _Parallel Passage_ and _Sacred Enclosure_ were used by old and -recent generations of Makalanga as places in which to deposit their -ash, pottery, iron, and bone débris, and this was found in places to -a height of 3 ft. and 4 ft. The bones were of animals, mostly of buck, -but some of oxen, and all had been split open for the marrow, as is -usually found to be the case in all Makalanga débris heaps whether at -any ruins or at their villages. Being sunless and damp these two places -for occupation purposes appear to have been avoided by them. - -[Illustration: SOUTH ENTRANCE TO PARALLEL PASSAGE, LOOKING SOUTH, -ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: PART OF PLATFORM AREA, LOOKING WEST, SHEWING DRAIN FROM -No. 10 ENCLOSURE, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - - - - - CHAPTER XIII - - THE ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - (_Continued_) - - The Platform—Enclosures Nos. 9 to 15—Central area—Platform - area—Inner Parallel Passage—South Passage—West - Passage—North-East Passage—Outer Parallel Passage. - - - 8a. THE PLATFORM - -This is a raised platform standing immediately in front of the -_Conical Tower_ at a distance of 4 ft. from north to north-west. The -proximity of this structure to the _Conical Tower_, its position in -front of it, its summit commanding a view of the interior of the -temple, particularly of the interior of the _Sacred Enclosure_, its -peculiar form as compared with other structures in the temple, and the -excellent workmanship displayed in its walls, as well as the decoration -of green chlorite schist on its east wall, would appear to show that -it possessed some highly important significance in the minds of the -ancient worshippers. So much is this so that visitors most frequently -remark that this structure must have been the “pulpit” from which the -priests addressed the crowd of worshippers. - -_The Platform_ possesses no angular feature. Its plan is oval, the -entrance is rounded, and the curves of the walls are excellently worked -out. The southern and eastern half of this building now only remains -intact, the northern half, though still traceable, having been pushed -over northwards by a huge tree. - -The inside area of the southern half is 14 ft. from north to south, and -16 ft. from east to west. The heights of its sides are as follows: east -side, 9 ft. from granite cement step on floor of _No. 11 Enclosure_; -west side, 10 ft. above floor of _No. 9 Enclosure_, including 3 ft. -height of terraced wall; south side, 12 ft. above floor of _Sacred -Enclosure_ (_west_), and 11 ft. from top of “blind steps” in the same -enclosure; the north side is ruined. The wall on its present summit is -from 2 ft. to 2 ft. 6 in. wide. - -On the inside, and at a height of from 2 ft. to 4 ft. below the summit -of the wall, is a raised platform 2 ft. wide running round the inside -of the wall. This platform, which, in fact, is banquette work, is -paved with stones, and these are covered with granite cement. This -banquette was approached by well steps ascending up in the centre of -the interior, and these were made of blocks covered with granite cement. - -The entrance to _The Platform_ is on the north-east side, but only one -side is now remaining. It is 9 ft. high and is rounded. The large upper -granite cement step on the floor of _No. 11 Enclosure_ led up to this -entrance. The decorative pattern on the outer face of the north-east -wall is described in the account of _No. 11 Enclosure_. - -This _Platform_ appears to have served an identical purpose as that of -the elevated _Platform_ at the _Western Temple_ on the _Acropolis_, and -as that of the _Ancient Balcony_ which commands the interior of the -_Eastern Temple_ on _Zimbabwe Hill_. - -Bent stated that in 1891 a tall unhewn granite monolith stood erect -immediately north of _The Platform_, but there is no trace now of its -existence, and several old residents of Victoria say it must have -disappeared before they first visited the ruins.[54] The positions -of all three of the platforms suggest some purpose in the ancient -religious services. - - - NO. 9 ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure lies to the north of the western end of _Sacred -Enclosure_ (_west_), to the east of _No. 7 Enclosure_, to the west -of _The Platform_, and to the south of the south passage to _No. 10 -Enclosure_ and of _No. 10 Enclosure_. - -Its area is: north side, 26 ft; west side, 26 ft.; east side, 42 ft.; -and south side, 24 ft. - -The south side is formed by the wall dividing this enclosure from -_Sacred Enclosure_ (_west_), and this is 9 ft. high, and shows the two -classes of building as does the opposite side. The west side for 6 ft. -from its south end is formed by a wall of this length, and which is 6 -ft. high. This wall at its northern end terminates abruptly and leans -northwards, being supported by a bank of soil débris. The rest of this -side is formed by the bank of soil débris as far as the south passage -to _No. 10 Enclosure_. The north side is formed by the south wall of -that passage and of _No. 10 Enclosure_. The passage wall is 6 ft. high, -and the enclosure wall 8 ft. high. The east side for 14 ft. from the -south end is formed by _The Platform_, and a terraced wall projecting -westwards for from 5 ft. to 7 ft. The rest of the eastern side was an -open space, until recently covered with soil débris. - -An entrance from _Sacred Enclosure_ (_west_) is in the south-west -corner, and this is described in the account of that enclosure. This -entrance on the north side has two stone steps covered with granite -cement. The entrance from _No. 10 Enclosure_ is described in the -account of the passage to that enclosure. - -At the south side there is a mass of granite cement rendered shapeless -by roots of trees and creepers, and also considerably decomposed by -annual accumulations of rain-water, as this is the lowest part of the -enclosure. Traces of rounded faces can be seen at several points in -this cement. - -On the eastern side the floor is made of granite cement. This is only -4 in. thick, and underneath it are several thin layers of floors made -of granite cement. - -It is believed that the angle between _The Platform_ and the south wall -once held “blind steps.” The quantity of decomposed granite cement -found in this corner, together with traces of two steps on the terraced -wall, rather confirms this belief. - - - NO. 10 ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure lies on the north side of _No. 7 Enclosure_. Until -August, 1902, nothing was known concerning it, nor could it have been -examined during the last fifty years. The Makalanga, as previously -stated, whose last occupation of the temple as a kraal was some sixty -years ago, had filled it in with stones and rubble and laid a common -clay floor over the filling-in, as was their usual practice in almost -all the ancient ruins in Rhodesia which they occupied. On this clay -floor was built a circular hut of clay. The filling-in completely -buried portions of the walls of the enclosure. - -In addition to this filling-in, the area had been used as a -dumping-ground for soil excavated from neighbouring enclosures, and -so much so that the soil heap was at least 6 ft. higher than the -filling-in by the Makalanga, and it contained some twenty-five tons of -soil, all of which has now been removed. - -In form the enclosure has the shape of a quarter of a section of a -circle, the square sides being on the south and west. - -The south side is 27 ft. 6 in. long, the south entrance to this -enclosure being at 20 ft. to 23 ft. from the west end. The south wall -is the divisional wall between _No. 7 Enclosure_ and this enclosure. -It is massive and very well built, and is still from 6 ft. to 7 ft. in -height. - -The west side is 31 ft. 6 in. in length. The first 21 ft. from its -south end is well built, and is in a good state of preservation save -for a reduction in its summit. It is 4 ft. wide at present level of -ground. The northern extremity of the 21-ft. length is rounded. The -wall at its southern end is 8 ft. high, but for 10 ft. at its northern -end it averages only 4 ft. to 5 ft. in height. At 21 ft. to 23 ft. -along the west side of the enclosure is the western entrance, the -northern side of which is formed by a rounded buttress, now only 2 ft. -in height. The rest of the wall towards the north is very dilapidated. - -The east side, which curves outwards towards the east, measures 40 ft. -along the face of the wall. The length of 27 ft. from the north end is -formed by a wall of this length, which is 3 ft. to 4 ft. high and 3 ft. -wide. This wall is obviously of poor and late construction as compared -with the west and south wall of this enclosure, and crosses in the -middle of its length, at right angles, an old substantial foundation -running east and west. The foundation of the upper wall is laid on the -block and soil débris on the summit of the buried wall. Probably this -buried wall was the north side of this enclosure at a lower level, and -this would have once made the enclosure square in form. The eastern -wall terminates at its south end with an angular buttress 2 ft. 6 in. -wide, which protrudes westerly 16 in. into the enclosure, where it -terminates abruptly in a broken end. From the 27-ft. point to the sound -end of the wall is a very well-built substantial wall 4 ft. 6 in. wide -at base, but for 5 ft. from its north end it is 1 ft. only above the -present floor, but for the rest of its length it is 6 ft. in height. -Where the wall so rises in height it is rounded across the wall, and -this may have been the south side of an eastern entrance into the -enclosure. - -Though this enclosure has been cleared, the coarse red clay of the -Makalanga still remains in the centre of the area, but in the angles of -this enclosure and along its south side is some yellow granite cement -of a far greater age. - -On the yellow granite cement a quantity of what appear to have -been gold-burnishing tools were found. All these were originally -water-worn, but showed signs of having been artificially worn as tools. -Five of these showed gold richly on the sides used for burnishing, -others also showed gold. This was the only enclosure in this temple -where such tools were found, and the number of them discovered at and -near one spot suggests that this enclosure was in pre-Kafir occupation -days a gold-burnisher’s workshop, just as _No. 7 Enclosure_ was -evidently a goldsmith’s workshop, while for corresponding reasons _No. -6 Enclosure_ was a chief place for the smelting of gold. A quantity -of pottery made of soapstone clay, the first of such pottery yet -discovered, was found in this enclosure. - - - SOUTH APPROACH TO NO. 10 ENCLOSURE - -This is formed by a passage 10 ft. long, which enters this enclosure -at its south-east corner. It is probable that this passage was much -longer, and that it once extended to the north-west corner of the -_Sacred Enclosure_, where is an entrance facing the passage. - -The west side of the passage is formed by a wall 14 ft. 6 in. long, 4 -ft. high, and 3 ft. 6 in. on its present reduced summit, which wall is -also the east wall of _No. 7 Enclosure_. - -On the east side is a very well-built wall 10 ft. 6 in. long, 4 ft. -6 in. high, and 3 ft. wide on its present summit, with a finely -constructed rounded end tapering upwards and facing south. The rounded -end is 7 ft. high, and rises from the floor of _No. 9 Enclosure_, which -is on the east side but on a lower level. - -The south end of the passage is 4 ft. wide, but the north end is 6 ft. -6 in. wide, but is narrowed to 2 ft. 6 in. by a rounded buttress 4 ft. -6 in. high, and this and the rounded wall opposite, which forms the -other side of the entrance, have upright portcullis-like grooves. - -The floor of the passage is paved with flat shallow stones covered for -2 in. in depth with granite cement. - - - NO. 11 ENCLOSURE - -This immediately adjoins on the north side of _Sacred Enclosure_ -(_east_). On the west side it is bounded by _The Platform_, on the east -by a large rounded buttress which separates it from _No. 12 Enclosure_, -but its northern boundary, if any, is at present difficult to determine. - -Through this enclosure is the northern entrance to the _Sacred -Enclosure_, and this entrance is within 8 ft. of the north face of the -_Conical Tower_. Evidently both from its close proximity to the _Sacred -Enclosure_, the _Tower_, and _The Platform_, the ancient occupiers -considered this enclosure to be of importance, and the splendid -construction of the massive steps leading toward the tower would appear -to further confirm the correctness of this conjecture. - -The area is, south side 18 ft.; west 14 ft.; east 14 ft.; and north 17 -ft. - -The wall on the south side is 13 ft. high at its western end, but -is reduced by dilapidation to 6 ft. at the entrance to the _Sacred -Enclosure_. At its highest point are five parallel horizontal bands -of green chlorite schist[55] separated from each other by two courses -of granite blocks. This wall is excellently built, and most patently -differs in style and excellence of construction from the same wall -which also forms the southern side of _No. 12 Enclosure_, and the -difference strongly suggests that during the later ancient occupation -the part of the wall which was continued into the adjoining enclosure -fell down and was rebuilt only in a poorer style. This can also be seen -on the opposite face of the wall in the _Sacred Enclosure_. - -The wall on the west side is the outer face of the east wall of _The -Platform_. This is 9 ft. high, measuring from the granite cement step -at its base, and 10 ft. long. At the north end of this wall, which is -rounded, is the approach to the summit of _The Platform_. On the face -of this wall, and starting from the entrance to the _Sacred Enclosure_, -is a decoration of seven parallel and horizontal rows of green chlorite -schist, with two courses of granite blocks between each. Each row -begins close up to the entrance, but all terminate towards the north of -the wall, each lower row extending some 6 in. more north than the one -above it. - -On the east side the rounded buttress projects 6 ft. 6 in. from the -south wall, and is still 4 ft. 6 in. high, and 11 ft. long measuring -towards the east. This length may be divided into two portions, the -eastern part which is angular and of poor construction, being in all -probability a later erection to support the joint in the superior and -poorer portions of the south wall, also the western portion already -described. On the north side of this buttress is a granite cement floor -raised 4 in. above the floor of the enclosure, and the step is rounded -along its edge. The western and northern sides of this buttress were -once faced with granite cement 3 in. thick in the form of a dado. A -portion of this cement still remains on the north side, and the quality -of the cement is identical with the cement found in dado fashion on the -faces of other walls in the temple and on the _Acropolis_. The eastern -addition to this buttress does not appear ever to have had a cemented -dado. - -The most striking features of this enclosure are its most excellent -granite cement floor and its massive rounded steps. Until October, -1902, this enclosure was filled up to a height of 5 ft. above the -present opened-out floors. The lowest strata of filling-in, 2 ft. -thick, had been made by rains washing in the soil from adjoining and -higher enclosures, the drain-hole through the south wall having become -blocked. There was no vegetable matter in this stratum. The stratum -of filling-in above the lowest one was a deliberate filling-in and -levelling-up by Makalanga of a very early period, for this débris -contained articles such as pottery, assegai-heads, clay whorls, which, -though strongly resembling those of the present Makalanga pattern, were -of a somewhat better quality than those made by them either to-day or -within the last few generations. This stratum of filling-in was done -at one and the same time, for the line of stratification was perfect -and unbroken. Above this stratum was one of ordinary _daga_ (clay) and -not cement, and this contained articles more closely resembling those -of present Makalanga make, but this stratum must have been filled in, -judging by the quantity of débris found, more than seventy years ago, -for according to local native accounts it was fully seventy years ago -when the Makalanga ceased to occupy the _Elliptical Temple_ as a place -of residence, though sacrifices of oxen on certain feast days, as -mentioned by Mauch, Phillips, and Bent, and local chiefs, took place in -the temple down to thirty years ago, if not somewhat later. Above this -stratum and forming the surface was a stratum of very rich leaf mould -about 18 in. thick, and this was matted with vegetable growth. - -[Illustration: SOUTH WALL WITH PATTERN, No. 11 ENCLOSURE, ELLIPTICAL -TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: JOINT BETWEEN ORIGINAL AND RECONSTRUCTED WALLS, Nos. 11 -& 12 ENCLOSURE, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -On digging out the roots of a large parent monkey-rope tree, which -had done considerable damage to the south wall of this enclosure, and -which tree appears in all the old photographs of the _Conical Tower_, -a section of an ancient floor was discovered at a depth of 5 ft. Some -twenty tons of filling-in were removed, and the whole of the cement -floor as seen to-day was exposed. The old visitors’ path crossed this -enclosure 5 ft. above this cement floor. - -The cement work in this enclosure is most excellent, hardly a scratch -being seen upon its surface. It is the finest and most perfect specimen -yet found either at Zimbabwe or any ancient ruin in Rhodesia. The -granite powder in the cement is so firmly set that picks cannot make -any impression upon it. This flooring averages 18 in. to 2 ft. in -thickness, and must rest on a splendid foundation, for the levels of -the floor are almost true to this day. - -A large cement step runs north and south at 2 ft. from the west side. -This is 14 in. high and 5 ft. long, but originally, according to its -curve and traces of its continuation, 7 ft. long. The step which has a -rounded edge forms the lower portion of the approach to _The Platform_. - -A second step runs from north to south at 5 ft. from the front of the -first step, and slightly curves out eastwards. This step is 12 ft. -high, 11 ft. 6 in. long, and has a boldly rounded edge. The floor has a -slight fall to the south-east corner, where is a drain-hole which has -its exit near the small tower in _Sacred Enclosure_ (_east_). - -The entrance to the _Sacred Enclosure_, which is in the south-west -corner of this enclosure, is 2 ft. 6 in. wide, is rounded, and has -portcullis grooves on either side. - - - NO. 12 ENCLOSURE - -This immediately adjoins _No. 11 Enclosure_ on its north-east side. -Its east wall for 28 ft. is formed by west wall of _Sacred Enclosure_ -(_east_), and for 21 ft. by the west wall of _Parallel Passage_. These -walls are one, and curve outwards towards the east to the extent of 6 -ft. from a line drawn from end to end of the wall in this enclosure. -This east wall is 49 ft. long and 10 ft. high, and from the angular -buttress at the south-west corner has a banquette wall, 4 ft. high, -projecting 1 ft. 6 in., and continued north-east for 32 ft. from the -buttress. This wall is of inferior construction to the same wall on -the east side of _No. 11 Enclosure_, the courses being most irregular, -the stones ill-sorted, and there is no decoration on its face. The -north-eastern portion is reduced to 3 ft. 6 in. in height for a length -of 17 ft., the upper portion having fallen into _Parallel Passage_. The -angular buttress in the south-west corner appears to have been built at -a later period, when the west wall of _Sacred Enclosure_ (_east_) was -rebuilt, for the buttress covers the joint between the original portion -and the later portion, as if to strengthen the wall at this point. -The north side for 12 ft. is formed by a wall of this length, which -is 4 ft. high and 3 ft. 6 in. wide on its present summit. But it is -impossible at present to define either the western boundary or those of -the remainder of the north and south sides, owing to the fact that all -divisional walls in this portion of the temple have been covered over -and buried during the period of some later occupiers. - -In the angle formed by the east and south sides is a platform 6 ft. -high and 11 ft. wide, which is approached by five steps, the platform -and the steps being covered with granite cement. Similar steps and -platforms are found in the angles of other enclosures both in the -_Elliptical Temple_ and in the ruins on the Acropolis. These are all -remarkably alike in position, dimensions, and construction, and all -appear to have answered an identical purpose. The sizes of the steps, -the nearness of the lowest step to the walls preclude the suggestion -that they were flights on the summits of the walls. (See _Blind -Steps_—_Architecture_.) - -A drain passes under the small platform and it has cement rims to lead -the water to it. - - - NO. 13 ENCLOSURE - -This adjoins _No. 12 Enclosure_ on the north side, the west side of the -inner wall of the _Parallel Passage_ forming its eastern boundary for -25 ft. 6 in. This wall is 5 ft. high for 18 ft. from the south end of -the enclosure, and 11 ft. 6 in. high for the last 7 ft. of its northern -end. - -The south side is formed for 12 ft. by the wall separating this -enclosure from _No. 12_, but _No. 13_ being at a lower level, this wall -is 6 ft. high from the present filled-in surface of the enclosure. - -The north and north-west side is formed by a wall 32 ft. long, with a -rounded entrance from _No. 14 Enclosure_ between the 21-ft. and 23-ft. -points of this length, measuring from the east end of this wall. The -wall is fairly well built at its eastern end, where it is still 4 ft. -high and 3 ft. 6 in. to 4 ft. wide on its present reduced summit. This -wall is built upon a red cement foundation. The south-west end of the -wall is very dilapidated, but appears to have been originally of good -construction. [Owing to piles of soil débris on the south-west side of -this enclosure, it is impossible at present to define the exact limits -on that side, but the shape of the enclosure is that of a keystone, its -widest and rounded end being on the east side.] - - - NO. 14 ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure, which is on the east side of the temple, is where the -_Inner Parallel Passage_ opens into the interior of the building. The -area is 47 ft. from north to south, and 42 ft. east to west. It is open -on the north and west sides where it adjoins _No. 15 Enclosure_ and the -_Central Area_ respectively. - -The east side is formed by the south entrance to _Inner Parallel -Passage_ by the large buttress, 7 ft. high, projecting into, and -forming, the south side of the entrance to that passage, and by a -length of 17 ft. of the west wall of the large _Parallel Passage_ which -is here 14 ft. high. - -The south side is bounded by the divisional wall, 5 ft. high, between -this enclosure and _No. 13 Enclosure_. In this wall is a rounded -entrance between the two enclosures. - -The west side is open to the interior of the temple, but at 42 ft. in -that direction there are traces of a wall running north and south which -probably formed its west side. - -The north side was once formed by a wall of which traces can yet be -seen, and which once divided this enclosure from _No. 15 Enclosure_. - -Projecting from the north face of the south wall are the remains of -a sub-divisional wall. Several large, rounded structures of cement -are on the south-west side of the enclosure. The topmost floor of the -enclosure is made of a pinkish-coloured clay, which evidently has been -burnt. Under this floor was found sections of carved soapstone beams, -a few pieces of beaten gold, and other relics. On the surface of this -floor only superior-made native articles were found, and the floor was -covered by at least 2 ft. of rich black vegetable mould. Several trees -which were growing in this enclosure have recently been removed. - - - NO. 15 ENCLOSURE - -From an archæological point of view this enclosure is one of the most -interesting compartments in the temple, for here are to be seen several -layers of floors of a succession of occupiers each for a long period of -time. - -In 1903 this enclosure was found to be filled in with soil, ashes, and -bones to a depth of 12 ft., and on the top was a large tree at least -seventy to a hundred years old. When this great body of filling-in -was cleared away several most interesting architectural features were -revealed. - -The area is 56 ft. from east to west, and at its widest point 18 ft. -from north to south. The east, north, and west sides are formed by the -south wall of the _Inner Parallel Passage_, and by a continuation of -the same wall which curves outwards towards the north-west and forms -the south wall of the _South Passage_. This wall is 12 ft. high all -round and is well and massively built, the curve at the north-west end -being exceedingly well carried out. A drain passes through the east end -of the wall and opens into the _Inner Parallel Passage_. - -The south side is formed by two walls and a series of semi-circular -cement buttresses. The first or western end wall is rounded, being 7 -ft. round the face and 8 ft. high. A straight wall joins on to the -rounded length, and is 6 ft. 6 in. long and 7 ft. high. This length -has a drain-hole passing through it from the passage which forms -the eastern approach to the _South Passage_. A large rounded cement -buttress follows the two walls, and this is 14 ft. long and 7 ft. high. -A length of a few feet of soil showing several floors at different -heights is on the east side of the cement buttress, and another rounded -cement buttress, 3 ft. high, completes the boundary of the enclosure on -the south side. - -The lowest of the floors is formed of paving stones and granite cement, -and the level of this is flush with the bottom course of blocks in the -drain. But underneath this undoubtedly old floor, which was apparently -laid down when the east wall was built, there are cement steps and -buttresses at a depth of some 18 in. below the level of the drain. -Underneath the floor were found two phalli, fragments of ornamented -bowls and soapstone beams, clearly showing that the space underneath -this lowest floor had been occupied before the floor was laid. - -A floor of a pinkish-coloured cement, similar to that found in other -enclosures, is at some distance above the granite cement floor, and on -this floor were found very old native articles and quantities of buck -bones and ashes. Above this are floors of thin _daga_ (clay), and on -each of these were also bones and ashes and native articles which are -not now manufactured. - -The position of the east wall of this enclosure and the fact of its -covering some older enclosure seem to point to it as not being a -portion of the original building. - - - CENTRAL AREA - -This area of unexplored ground lies at the centre of the temple. It was -originally very much larger, but recent excavations have reduced it in -extent. The space covered is 80 ft. from east to west, and 30 ft. from -north to south, and it extends between _Nos. 5 and 14 Enclosures_, and -_Nos. 1 and 10 Enclosures_. - -[Illustration: S.E. INTERIOR OF ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE, LOOKING N.N.E., -SHEWING EXCAVATIONS ON PLATFORM AREA, 1902–4] - -Some plans of the temple show dotted lines to mark position of -conjectured walls, but most of these have been found not to exist. On -the surface of the highest portion of this area are slight walls of -shallow foundations and poor construction built across soil and blocks -thrown promiscuously together, and probably the blocks and the debris -of some buried structures at a lower level. - - - PLATFORM AREA - -Immediately in front of and adjoining the _Sacred Enclosure_ in which -stands the _Conical Tower_, and overlooked by _The Platform_, is -a large open area in the form of a bow, the rounded side—east and -south-east—being formed by _No. 9 Enclosure_, _The Platform_, and _Nos. -11, 12, and 13 Enclosures_, while the straight side, from south-west -to north-east, is formed by _Nos. 7 and 10 Enclosures_, a circular -platform, and _No. 13 Enclosure_. - -The area covered by this open space is 126 ft. from south-west to -north-east and 51 ft. from east to west. This space had not been -previously examined by any modern explorer. Nor does any published plan -of the temple attempt to deal with it, it having been always left as an -unmarked space. - -Bent found a similarity between _The Platform_ which overlooks this -area from its east side and the _Agora_ or platform-pulpit of the -ancient temples in the Near East to which references are so frequently -made in classic history, and he considered that this platform at -Zimbabwe, especially in view of its position in front of the _Conical -Tower_, was used for religious purposes, and that the open space -immediately at its foot and in front of it most probably held the -crowd of worshippers that might have been addressed from the elevated -_Platform_. - -The examination of this area in 1903 shows that Bent in 1891 made a -very shrewd conjecture as to the nature of the area. Over twelve years -ago and until 1903 the space held out a prospect of its containing -under its surface any number of walls, for in the Elliptical Temple -divisional walls and other structures are closely packed together. -Now that the space for 126 ft. by 51 ft. has been cleared to a depth -of from 4 ft. to 8 ft. following the lines of old cement floors which -were completely buried, the space is shown to be actually an open area -without walls or traces of walls of any sort crossing it at any point. -Excepting such granite blocks as lined the bases of the boundary walls -of this area, not ten hundred-weight of blocks were found, and these -were scattered about at different heights and in almost every position -in the soil débris which was removed. - -In excavating this large space down to the floor which runs throughout -the area at a similar level—a work occupying, forty native labourers -for three months—“finds” of any antique character were only made on the -cleared floor and not in the soil débris which was removed, and all -such relics which included fragments of both plain and carved soapstone -beams, gold plates, beads and wire, were about equally distributed over -the whole area. - -The most important architectural features disclosed in the clearing of -this area were as follows:— - -Drain from _No. 10 Enclosure_ into this area. - -A rounded terrace wall on the west side of _The Platform_. - -Excellent granite cement dado work, several square feet being still -intact. - -Two massive granite cement steps leading up to the north entrance to -the _Sacred Enclosure_. - -The large granite cement steps leading up to the small platform in the -angle formed by the north and east walls of _No. 12 Enclosure_. - -Drain-hole in buttress in _No. 12 Enclosure_ with large cement guides -to lead water to it. - -The suggestion made in description of the slight and poorly built -east wall of _No. 10 Enclosure_ that it was of later construction is -confirmed. - -[Illustration: CIRCULAR CEMENT PLATFORM WITH STEPS AND CARVED SOAPSTONE -BEAMS, DISCOVERED 1903, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO INNER PARALLEL PASSAGE FROM SOUTH PASSAGE, -ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -Circular granite cement platform with steps leading to summit. - -This last-mentioned structure is worthy of more than a mere mention; -as apart from its excellent construction and its position, its summit -was found to be covered with soapstone beams, plain and decorated, -while fragments of beams were lying all round its base. Near this spot -numerous soapstone phalli, including one of very large size, were -discovered. - -This platform is 69 ft., N. 20, from the north face of the _Conical -Tower_ measured through the centre of the north entrance to the _Sacred -Enclosure_. It has a circumference of 30 ft. 6 in., and is from 2 ft. -4 in. to 2 ft. 8 in. in height, with a rounded bevel at base 3 in. -high and projecting 6 in. There are two boldly rounded steps, each 8 -in. high, on the east side, and on the east side of the steps is a low -cement parapet. This platform occupies a somewhat isolated position. -Its summit was found to be buried for at least 2 ft. in soil. Close to -the north side was a large tree, judged to have been almost one hundred -years old. The roots of the tree had arched over and also encircled -the structure, and so had preserved it. The roots had attempted to -penetrate the cement, but failing to do so they passed completely round -its face, and when cut away they were almost all semi-circular in shape. - - - INNER PARALLEL PASSAGE - -This passage lies between the main _Parallel Passage_ and _No. 15 -Enclosure_. It runs north-west to south-east from the _South Passage_ -near the _North Entrance_ to the temple into _No. 15 Enclosure_, and -is parallel with _Parallel Passage_. The three parallel walls forming -the two passages are generally known as the _Triple Walls_. Whereas -the _Parallel Passage_ led from the _North Entrance_ to the _Sacred -Enclosure_ only, this leads from near the _North Entrance_ right into -the interior of the temple. - -Its length is 71 ft., and at its eastern end it is 7 ft. wide for a -short distance, but rapidly closes in to a width of 3 ft. 6 in., which -is maintained throughout the greatest part of its remaining length. - -The north-eastern wall is the south-western wall of the _Parallel -Passage_, and from the eastern end for 29 ft. this wall averages in -height 12 ft. to 14 ft. above the present floor of the passage, and -from the 29-ft. point to 67 ft. the face of the wall is damaged by -roots, and the height here is only 7 ft. - -The south-western side is formed by the wall dividing this passage from -_No. 15 Enclosure_. It averages 10 ft. in height, and is well and very -substantially built. On this side, at 32 ft. from the eastern end, is a -drain leading from _No. 15 Enclosure_. - -The western entrance to this passage has on the north-eastern side a -rounded buttress 5 ft. high, 6 ft. long, and protruding 1 ft. 10 in. -from the face of the wall. This buttress has a portcullis groove, but -this has recently been built up in order to strengthen the buttress. -On the opposite side there are traces only of a corresponding buttress -in the shape of some foundation stones, and there are also signs that -there were once steps extending from buttress to buttress. - -It is probable that the ancient floor was only a few inches below the -present cleared-out floor, as what appear to be paving stones, together -with small sections of granite floor, can be seen outcropping at -several points along the passage, but vine and tree roots have lifted -the rest of the stones out of place. - -At the eastern end is a large, substantial, and well-constructed -rounded buttress protruding 9 ft. towards south-west from the -north-eastern side of the passage, where it here opens on to _No. 14 -Enclosure_. This buttress gives the passage-way a turn south at almost -right angles. This buttress is from 4 ft. to 10 ft. in height on its -front face, but 21 ft. at its rear, and this buttress forms part of the -boundary of _No. 14 Enclosure_. - -[Illustration: EAST WALL, No. 11 ENCLOSURE, WITH PATTERN, ELLIPTICAL -TEMPLE] - -[Illustration: INNER PARALLEL PASSAGE, LOOKING EAST, ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE] - -It is possible that this buttress which is hollow, and to which there -are traces of an entrance from the passage, once enclosed steps leading -on to the summit of the wall between the _Parallel Passage_ and the -_Inner Parallel Passage_.[56] Certainly the way the stone débris inside -the buttress has fallen tends to support this conjecture. - - - SOUTH PASSAGE - -This passage appears to have been the main artery leading from the main -and _North Entrance_ of the temple right into the central portion of -the building, where it has its terminus. It is 68 ft. long from the -broad step on the south side of the _North Entrance_ to the steps at -the south end of the passage. - -For 23 ft. from the north end where is the broad step there is an -almost triangular area, 23 ft. from north to south, and 30 ft. from -east to west, having its base on the north side. The western end of -_Inner Parallel Passage_ enters it at the eastern corner, and the -entrance from _No. 3 Enclosure_ is at its western corner. The heights -of the walls forming this area are: north side being the south wall of -the _Parallel Passage_, 15 ft.; south-west side being the north-east -wall of _No. 1 Enclosure_, 12 ft.; the west side being the divisional -wall between the area and _No. 3 Enclosure_, 6 ft.; the east and south -being the wall dividing the area from _No. 15 Enclosure_, 12 ft. All -these walls are well built and are very substantial. - -In the centre of this area is a raised platform, commencing at 9 ft. -from the north side of the area and terminating at 21 ft. from the same -point, thus giving it a length of 12 ft. It is 9 ft. 6 in. wide and 3 -ft. high, and has granite cement covering, where not broken, the whole -summit. An old euphorbia tree was found growing out of this cement, -its roots having played havoc with the side walls of the platform, the -best portion now remaining facing the north-east side. The tree has now -been removed. This platform is approached by three large granite cement -steps, the two lower ones still being in a fair condition. These steps -are each 12 in. high, and from front to back are from 10 in. to 12 in., -while they are 2 ft. 6 in. wide, and are rounded on the edges. - -The most peculiar circumstance about this platform is that under a -foot depth of vegetable mould which completely covered it and rendered -the platform shapeless, and lying on the surface of the cement floor, -were found some hundred-weights of bones of oxen. There were no bones -other than those of oxen, and the bones had not been split open for the -marrow, as is so frequently found to be the case in very old Makalanga -débris heaps. Nor were any broken pottery, iron implements, or iron and -brass bangles, such as are most usually found together in such débris, -to be seen, but carbonised wood was found in large quantities. - -It should be remembered that Mauch and others of the early writers on -Zimbabwe state that they had witnessed sacrifices by the Makalanga of -those days of black oxen in the _Elliptical Temple_, and the local -natives also state that this was their practice up to within the last -fifteen years. Possibly this was the spot where these sacrifices took -place, for though Thomas Baines in a painting he made of one of these -ceremonies places the _Conical Tower_ in the background, there are no -signs anywhere near that structure that such sacrifices ever took place -in its immediate vicinity, all of which has now been cleared of débris -down to the cement floor at every point where the _Conical Tower_ could -possibly have formed a background for such a ceremony. It is now almost -certain that Baines painted this and other pictures of Zimbabwe from -the descriptions given him by Renders, Phillips, and Mauch. But in the -south-western end of the _Parallel Passage_ for about 20 ft. or 30 ft. -from its exit into the _Sacred Enclosure_ (_east_) the débris was very -mixed, and included bones of oxen and buck, the larger bones all split -open. Probably this was one of the spots in the temple where these -annual sacrifices of black oxen by Makalangas took place. - -The platform faces the north, the steps being on the south-east side. -The area containing this platform was evidently once laid with granite -cement, but sections of it only remain in the western corner and on its -north-east side. A drain-hole leading into the _Parallel Passage_ is at -6 ft. east of the broad steps ascending from this area to the _North -Entrance_. This step is 11 ft. broad. - -At 23 ft. south from its north end the area narrows to 3 ft. 10 -in., which width is maintained for 18 ft., the passage for this -length running between _No. 16 Enclosure_ on the east side and _No. -1 Enclosure_ on its west side. At this point in this section of the -passage a large flat slab of granite has been banked up with stones to -keep the upper portion of the wall on the west from collapsing into the -passage. The walls here on either side are from 7 ft. to 10 ft. high. - -At 43 ft. south from the north end of the passage are two entrances, -the one from the west being from _No. 1 Enclosure_, and this is -angular, while the other facing it on the east being from a short -passage on the south side of _No. 16 Enclosure_, is rounded, and has -portcullis grooves. From the 43-ft. point the width of the passage is -2 ft. 8 in., but at its southern extremity it is increased during the -last few feet to 4 ft. 10 in. The side walls are very well built, and -are still in a good state of preservation. The entrance at the south -end of the passage has a rounded buttress with portcullis groove on -either side leaving a width of 3 ft. This entrance has five large stone -steps practically perfect. The buttresses are 5 ft. high. - - - WEST PASSAGE - -This passage lies on the west side of the interior of the temple, and -is between _Nos. 4 and 5 Enclosures_ on the west and _No. 1 Enclosure_ -and _Central Area_ on the east. It runs north and south, and is formed -on the west side by a massive and well-built wall, which is in the form -of an arc; the length of the inside face of the wall being 65 ft., and -that of the line drawn from extremity to extremity of the wall being 57 -ft., and this passes at 8 ft. from the inner face at the centre of the -curve westwards. - -This large curved wall is independent of any other structure, and -stands entirely by itself. It is clearly the best-constructed wall in -the western half of the temple, and the excellent workmanship displayed -in the regularity of the courses, the bold and well-executed curve, and -its immense width, at once strike the attention of anyone who enters -the temple at the western portal. Its width is 8 ft. at 6 ft. above the -ground, and its height ranges from 6 ft. to 10 ft. - -The position and character of this wall induced Bent to conjecture that -this arc was one of the proofs that the entire temple was a “multiform -temple,” such as are found in South-West Asia, and these “little -temples ... were dedicated to the cult of particular stars.” Bent -considered that the massive and well-built curved walls in _Enclosures -Nos. 7 and 15_ were also employed for particular observations -independently of the great temple itself. At the time Bent made this -conjecture he was unaware that up against the centre of the inner face -of this curved wall was a platform raised some 4 ft. above the level -of the ground, and of the numerous relics of the older type found at -and near it, or that there were originally three granite monoliths once -standing parallel with, and at equal distance from, the west face of -this wall. These discoveries have only just recently been made, as well -as other corresponding discoveries in the other two enclosures which -Bent took to be minor temples. Each of the monoliths is 29 ft. from the -west face of the wall, and each is 9 ft. apart. - -At its south end the passage is 10 ft. wide, at the north end it -narrows to 4 ft., but at its centre it averages a width of 10 ft. to 12 -ft. - -The east side of the passage is formed for 49 ft. from the north end -by the wall of _No. 1 Enclosure_, which here appears to be of poorer -and later construction, also by a roughly built wall, 11 ft. long, -with foundation some 4 ft. above the foundation of the wall of _No. 1 -Enclosure_, and by a rounded buttress, 12 ft. length of facing and 7 -ft. high, which has its foundation on the platform which overlooks the -west curved wall. - -The platform, which is of cement, once had retaining walls at two -levels, and portions of these still remain. - - - NORTH-EAST PASSAGE[57] - -This passage is on the north-east side of the temple and immediately -outside the _North Entrance_, running north-east at right angles from -the main wall between that entrance and [590 ft.]. Its total length -is 360 ft., but there is some evidence that it once extended further -towards the north-east for at least some hundred yards beyond the 360 -ft. Only a portion of the 360 ft. length has at present been cleared of -débris. - -On the north-west side it is bounded by a well-built wall 4 ft. 6 in. -high and 12 ft. long, at the north-east end of which is a large rounded -buttress with portcullis groove. This buttress projects 3 ft. into the -passage, and is 3 ft. 6 in. high. Probably another buttress containing -a corresponding portcullis groove faced it on the opposite side of the -passage. - -The eastern side is bounded by the entrance to the _Outer Parallel -Passage_ and by the north wall of that passage, which curves round in -front of the _North Entrance_ to the temple, and runs at right angles -to its former position. This wall, which is well built, is 7 ft. high, -and forms the east side of the passage for some 35 ft., but at this -point it is reduced to 3 ft. in height, and is carried on toward the -north-east in a less carefully constructed style. - -The widths of the passage and the heights of the side walls, measuring -from the _North Entrance_ to the temple, are as follows:— - - Heights. - Width. West side. East side. - S. Extremity 12 ft. 4 ft. 6 in. 7 ft. - 25 ft. 5 ft. 2 ft. 6 in. 6 ft. - 35 ft. 2 ft. 10 in. 3 ft. 4 ft. - 50 ft. 2 ft. 6 in. 3 ft. 3 ft. - -Between 35 ft. and 50 ft. are remains of pavement. - -This passage, with its length of 660 ft., is believed to have formed -the chief line of communication between the _Elliptical Temple_ and the -_Acropolis_, seeing that it runs from the main entrance of the temple -down into the valley at a point almost facing the lowest extremity of -the _South-East Ancient Ascent_ to the _Acropolis_. - - - OUTER PARALLEL PASSAGE - -On leaving the temple by the _North Entrance_ one enters a walled-in -area. This area is formed by the southern extremity of the _North-East -Passage_ and the western extremity of the _Outer Parallel Passage_, -both of which meet at, and converge upon, the _North Entrance_. - -The _Outer Parallel Passage_ runs for 125 ft. east-south-east from -the _North Entrance_ parallel with the north-east wall of the temple -between the points [450 ft.] and [575 ft.] of its outer circumference. -At its extremity near the _North Entrance_ this passage is 7 ft. wide, -and 25 ft. further east-south-east of the entrance it is 3 ft. 8 in. -wide, which width is maintained for a length of 50 ft., beyond which -point it commences to widen out till the east-south-east extremity is -reached, where it is 12 ft. 6 in. wide. - -Opposite the _North Entrance_ the outer wall of the passage is 6 ft. -high; at 25 ft. further east-south-east, 5 ft.; at 75 ft., 8 ft.; -at 100 ft., 7 ft.; and at 125 ft., 5 ft., the line of summit from -the 25 ft. point to the east-south-east extremity being fairly level -throughout. This outer wall is well built. It is 4 ft. 2 in. wide on -the summit at 5 ft. from the floor of the passage, and 3 ft. 10 in. -wide at 7 ft. from the ground. - -At 25 ft. from the _North Entrance_ is a rounded entrance through the -outer wall. This has portcullis grooves. It is 1 ft. 10 in. wide, and -has three steps formed of the courses of the foundation of the wall, -the upper step being curved back into the entrance. - -At the extremity near the _North Entrance_ there are the remains of a -small rounded buttress projecting into the passage from the main wall -of the temple. - - - - - CHAPTER XIV - - THE ACROPOLIS RUINS - - South-East Ancient Ascent—Lower Parapet—Rock Passage—Upper - Parapet—Western Enclosure. - - -On Zimbabwe Hill, at a height of some 230 ft. to 250 ft. above the -valley which runs along its west and south sides, stands the Acropolis -or Hill Fortress. Its prominent and strategic position on this -precipitous and practically isolated granite kopje gives it a grandly -imposing appearance among the many large ruins included within the -Zimbabwe Reserve. - -Viewing the hill from the valley, one can well realise that Nature -alone made the place impregnable, while the builders of almost four -thousand years ago applied their highly developed engineering skill and -ingenuity to make the stronghold even more absolutely unassailable. - -The south side of the hill is defended by a precipice some 90 ft. -high, running without break from the western end for over 300 yds. -to the eastern side of the hill, where the precipice loses itself in -gigantic boulders, each of many hundred tons weight, which, owing to -their beetling form, render that side of the hill inaccessible. Great -boulders form the summit of the hill, and are in a cliff-shaped line -running from west to east. Several of the highest boulders appear to -be most delicately poised on the edges of the shoulders of gigantic -cliffs, and these rise up at least 50 ft. to 70 ft. above the highest -portion of the Hill Ruins, thus making the total height of the kopje -to be slightly more than 320 ft. - -[Illustration: ZIMBABWE HILL - -VIEW FROM HAVILAH CAMP] - -The bases of the southern walls are built on the outward slope of the -brink of the line of steep granite cliff, the lowest row of stones -being deep at their front and narrow at the back. So markedly are these -wedge-shaped rows of stones laid over the brink of the precipice that -at first sight one hardly notices where the wall ends and the precipice -begins, especially as the blocks in the walls present in the dry season -the same colourings and tints as the line of cliff itself. Below the -precipice the ground has a very sharp fall of some 70 ft. into the -valley. - -The feelings provoked in one’s mind on visiting the Elliptical Temple -and Sacred Cone, which are in the valley, are those of awe and -reverence; but on inspecting the Acropolis the visitor is overcome -by a sense of absolute amazement and sheer bewilderment, which are -intensified at every step taken along its numerous labyrinthine -passages on climbing the hill. - -Above the precipice, as seen from the valley, are massive walls, on -the summits of which some dozen monoliths, more or less erect, are -still to be seen standing clear against the sky-line. From this point -of view alone—and this but represents a small fraction of the walls of -which these ruins are composed—one realises that many thousands of tons -of granite blocks (those in the outer faces having been squared and -dressed) have been transported up the precipitous kopje to a height of -no less than 230 ft., for examination of the rocks on the hill proves -that the greater quantity of stone used in the walls was not quarried -on the kopje itself. - -Apart from the infinite patience and painstaking toil of the ancients -as displayed in their careful and correct building and complicated plan -and style of architecture, this one fact of so much stone quarried -and dressed elsewhere and carried up to such a height as a man could -hardly climb who bore no burden, is one to amaze and perplex even the -most casual and indifferent visitor. Later, on reaching the ruins it -will be seen that very many thousand tons of granite blocks have been -carried up the hill. This fact serves to still further accentuate the -statements made by the authors on pages 60 and 65 of _Ancient Ruins -of Rhodesia_ that (1) not only did the ancients of the first period -of Zimbabwe architecture realise that they were occupying a hostile -country, but (2) the ancient builders had at their disposal slave -labour to an enormous and incalculable extent, and this apart from the -overwhelming evidences pointing to the same conclusion presented by the -thousands of ancient workings spread over Southern Rhodesia, and the -hundreds of massive fortresses and temples occupying a corresponding -area. - -These and many other obvious suggestions present themselves most -forcibly at even the partial view of the Hill Fortress as seen from the -valley. - -The first question occurring to one ascending the hill is: Where is -the ancient ascent? It is obvious that the path used by visitors could -not be the ascent of the ancients, for were it not for the gaps in the -walls, access to the summit by the ordinary path would be absolutely -impracticable. Indeed, the ordinary path runs at several points along -the reduced tops of broken walls, and crosses the foundations of some -dozen outer defence walls, which are now practically demolished and -barely traceable. - -There are two well-defined ancient approaches to the summit of the -Acropolis, one being on the south side of the hill and the other on the -face fronting the west-north-west. It is believed that at least two -other ancient ascents exist. The N.N.W. ascent has not been completely -cleared out, though it is very well defined, and some 320 ft. of its -940 ft. length can now be traversed by the visitor, but the south-east -ascent has recently been cleared out of large trees, shrubs, and many -tons of wall débris and silted soil, so that it is now possible for -visitors to use it with ease. Mogabe, the Zimbabwe Makalanga chief, now -seventy years of age, who at one time had his kraal on the northern -side of the summit of Zimbabwe Hill, as well as the older of his -headmen, all state they had never before seen this ancient ascent so -cleared out. They say that the late Chipfuno’s people, and subsequently -their own, used it as an approach to the kraal, but not generally, -and this was only possible by climbing along the tops of the walls -and over the large wall-débris heaps that blocked up the passage-way. -Certainly for at least one hundred years this ascent could not have -been used, for the débris piles were covered with lichens, and had -every appearance of great age. The Makalanga had also purposely blocked -up the passage with a substantial wall, which was erected in Chipfuno’s -time. Some of the trees cleared from the passages proved by their size -that they had stood there long before the Chartered Company’s advent -into the country. - -[Illustration: —ACROPOLIS RUINS— - -—Zimbabwe— - -_Methuen & Co._] - -In fact, the ascent by this ancient approach now occupies a little -more than half the time required to walk round by the circuitous path -till recently used by visitors, besides affording to the climber a -revelation as to the ingenuity and wonderful engineering skill of the -ancients in effecting the defence of the hill. Unless this ancient -approach be traversed by the visitor, one of the principal features -provided by the Acropolis or Hill Ruins will have been missed. - - - SOUTH-EAST ANCIENT ASCENT - -Leaving the huts at Havilah Camp, which occupy a low granite knoll on -the north side of the Shangani Grave and overlook the narrow valley -running at the south foot of the hill, one crosses the outspan and -passes through the “Outspan Ruins,”[58] which face the camp at a -distance of 70 yds. due north, which ruins are part of an inner line -of defence wall running round the base of the hill on the west, south, -and east sides, and which lie within the main outer wall sweeping -round from the west side of the Elliptical Temple to the north side -of Zimbabwe Hill, enclosing the large water-holes believed to have -been made by the ancients. From the ascent facing the camp a newly-cut -path leads in a direct line up some 70 ft. higher towards the ancient -approach, but with a slight trend to the east. - -Before striking the walls of the passage-way, the path crosses at -right angles the foundations of some seven or eight outer defence -walls and walls of terraces and buried enclosures all rising in tiers -one above and at the back of the other. The soil here is black with -ash débris, and in cutting the rough steps in the path to the ascent, -each shovelful of this black soil contained a large quantity of broken -pottery and bones of animals. This débris on being examined shows -most evidently that it is not ancient; further, it is pronounced by -local natives to have been thrown out from the ruins above by previous -generations of Makalanga, but not by the mediæval Makalanga, who, -according to Portuguese records (1560 to 1750), occupied these ruins -as one of the courts or chief residences of the succession of dynastic -chiefs, each known as the Monomotapa or “The Lord of the Mines.” This -débris is believed to cover that of the mediæval Makalanga and of the -ancients, for all débris would by the formation of the cliff above -be guided to this part of the lower southern slope, and the heavy -downfalls of very many rainy seasons would distribute it over the steep -face of the southern slope, and spread it into the valley, where any -quantity of such débris may be found. - -The path from the camp strikes the ancient ascent at 70 ft. above -the valley. The length of the approach, measured in the centre of -the passage in all its turnings, is 349 ft. from this point to its -termination on the summit of the precipice. It extends in a westerly -direction from the 70 ft. to the 210 ft. level on the hill. This -passage can be traced downwards into the valley to clear of the end of -the kopje for 420 yds. - -The ascent is, for an ancient ruin, in a remarkably good state of -preservation, except at a few points where whole lengths of walls have -fallen into the narrow passage which runs between high walls. All this -wall débris, which effectively blocked the passage, has just recently -been removed. At one point the end of a wall had collapsed bodily into -the passage, and being on higher ground had filled it up to the height -of the walls below, but this débris has also been cleared away, so that -visitors can now walk without the slightest hindrance up the ascent on -practically what was the ancient flooring, and ascend the old flights -of steps. To such an extent had the passage become choked up that it -required some fifteen native labourers, working at different points, -no less than four days to cut away sufficient growth as would enable -a mere scramble to be made over the débris in the passages, while the -thorough clearing away of wall débris occupied the whole gang for -nearly a fortnight. Now that this ancient ascent has been made an easy -approach, this passage to the summit of Zimbabwe Hill has become the -most popular ascent. - -The chief architectural features represented in the ascent are the -(_a_) Lower Parapet, (_b_) the Rock Passage, and (_c_) the Upper -Parapet, as also the flights of steps occurring in several lengths. - -The point where the path from the camp strikes this ancient ascent is -not its most easterly extremity nor its lowest point, for, as before -stated, this passage can be traced for 420 yds. further east, where -its emergence into the valley is protected by one, if not two, large -fort-like ruins of some importance. - -On turning into the ascent from the camp path, an outer wall on the -left-hand side runs for 42 ft. 6 in., and this wall is now only about -2 ft. high. The foundations are 4 ft. wide. The upper courses of -this wall are not ancient, though the foundations and lower courses -undoubtedly are, for it is evident that blocks which have fallen from -terrace walls overlooking the passage into the ascent have been laid -neatly, probably by mediæval Makalanga, on the tops of the wall which -had already become ruined. The right-hand side of the ascent from this -point, for a length of 65 ft., is formed by huge boulders. The passage -throughout this length is 3 ft. 6 in. to 4 ft. wide. - - - (_a_) THE LOWER PARAPET - -At the upper end of this 45 ft. length of wall, and on the left-hand -side, is a natural parapet artificially improved. This is the Lower -Parapet, the outer and left-hand side of which is formed by the summit -of a large boulder 25 ft. long, and its highest point not more than -4 ft. 6 in. above the floor of the ascent. From this vantage ground -a fine view is obtained of the hills to the south, with the Bentberg -(_Matusa_) directly opposite, and the Elliptical Temple and the valley -of Ruins below. - -On the inner and right-hand side of the Lower Parapet the rock glacis -is surmounted by two terrace walls, really enclosures filled in, the -second being behind and higher than the first. The lower terrace wall -has a frontage to the south of 24 ft., and the upper terrace wall -starts at 14 ft. to the rear of the top of the lower wall. Portions -of the higher wall are still intact, and judging by the line of wall -débris, it had a frontage to the south of some 20 ft. - -Facing the passage at the west end of the Lower Parapet is a wall 3 -ft. 6 in. high, running north for 12 ft. The top of this wall is 4 -ft. wide, and is built upon a large granite boulder, which beetles -considerably at the outer and southern extremity of this wall. The -northern end of the wall is wedge-shaped, the point being well made -with finely tapering sides. A similar wedged-shaped buttress is to be -seen at the entrance to the Upper Parapet, and also on the south side -of the east entrance in the interior of the Eastern Temple on Zimbabwe -Hill. - -The wall thus described acts as a division or parting of the ways, as -in the case of the wedge-shaped end of the wall at the Upper Parapet, -and a short passage 4 ft. wide and 12 ft. long runs along the west face -of the wall to the brink of the boulder which beetles to a steep drop -below. - -The object of this short passage jutting out from the main ascent to -the brink of the boulder’s edge is inexplicable, unless it was intended -as a débris shoot, for at the base of the south front of this boulder, -and some 20 ft. below, is a large débris pile of past and present -Makalanga ashes, pottery, and bones of animals. This is contained in -a loose black soil, but the débris of the ancients underlying the -obviously Makalanga débris is contained in a light yellow soil the -surface of which has become almost as hard as cement. The examination -of this lower stratum of débris fully confirms the suggestion that this -short passage which terminates, so to speak, in space was one of the -spots where the ancients shot their débris. - -At the north end of this short side-passage the main ascent takes a -long curve for 51 ft. westwards, from south-west to north-west, and is -formed on the outer side by a wall 5 ft. to 6 ft. wide on its present -reduced summit and from 6 ft. to 9 ft. in height, which runs still -ascending to the top end of the 51 ft. length. Here the ascent is -steeper than near the Lower Parapet, and steps, and traces of steps, -can be seen at several points. - -The inner or cliff side of the ascent, from the Lower Parapet to the -higher end of the 51 ft. wall on the opposite side, is formed by large -walls 3 ft. 6 in. wide on their present summits, and averaging 5 ft. in -height, but are built back on a much higher level of foundation than -the outer wall of the passage. These inner walls enclose an almost -square open space on the inner side of the ascent, the area being 16 -ft. on the south-east, 12 ft. on the north-east, and 11 ft. on the -north, the lower and south-east wall slanting down-hill towards the -passage, so that the lowest corner of the area is at the point where -the ascent enters the area. The enclosure is entirely thrown into the -passage. This lower corner of the area is about 8 ft. north-west of -the wedge-shape dividing wall just described. The arrangement of the -walls and of the area, with its lowest point resting on the passage, is -most patently an intentional design of the ancient military engineers, -as the slanting-down wall on the south-east side would provide room -within the area for a hundred defenders, while the narrow passage -immediately below where the ascent enters the area could barely have -held two invaders fighting abreast. But this narrow point was once -much narrower, for the foundations of a projecting buttress, rounded -into the lowest corner of the area, are to be seen about 2 ft. above -where the south-east wall slopes down-hill to within 3 ft. of the inner -face of the outer wall. The foundations of this projecting buttress -are very indistinct, and probably will disappear, as, now the buttress -has collapsed, visitors walk across the remaining foundation stones -as a short cut. The wall débris here suggests that the buttress was a -high structure. The Zimbabwe Makalanga headmen, who were watching the -clearing operations, informed the author that this buttress was once a -high one, but this was in their early days and many years before their -kraal was removed from Zimbabwe Hill. - -From above the enclosed area to the end of the 51 ft. length of outer -wall before mentioned the passage on the inner side is bounded by -a wall which runs parallel to the outer wall in its curve from the -south-west to the north-west. - -From the higher end of the 51 ft. length of wall the passage turns -directly west for 43 ft., where it curves to the north-east for 26 ft., -averaging a width of 3 ft. 6 in., except just lower than the curve and -through its continuation where it narrows to 2 ft. The heights of the -outside wall run from 3 ft. to 4 ft. 6 in. before it reaches the curve. -On the inner side wall of the lowest part of this length the wall is -much broken, especially a length of 11 ft., which once held dentelle -pattern, facing south. - -[Illustration: A TURN IN THE PASSAGE OF THE SOUTH-EAST ASCENT, -ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: VIEW FROM SOUTH-EAST ASCENT, ACROPOLIS] - -The end walls or frame of this dentelle pattern are still to be seen, -and many of the small blocks used in making this pattern were found -in the passage-way. The blocks can always be identified by their -exact similarity in size, and also on two faces they are exceedingly -time-worn, if not decomposed, as they are built up in columns with one -corner projecting outwards and flush with the face of the wall. This -pattern has now become completely destroyed by wild vine trees growing -inside the wall and forcing out its outer face on to the passage floor. -This damage must have been done within the last ten years. - -This was one of the finest examples of dentelle pattern so far -discovered in Rhodesia, and had it not been destroyed would have been -by far the largest pattern of all the five instances. Dentelle pattern -is one of the many distinguishing features of the first period of -Zimbabwe architecture. - -On the floor of this passage at this point and upwards there is a -flight of some thirty or forty steps. Each is very narrow from front -to back, so much so that it is exceedingly awkward for anyone wearing -boots to climb or descend them, though the Makalanga with their bare -feet climb them with the greatest ease. The steps extend from side to -side of the passage, but their end blocks, which here are very small, -are not built into the foundations of the side walls as are the large -steps to be found in the entrances and passages of all the original -buildings at Zimbabwe. It is therefore believed that these steps in -the ascent, or at least these particular steps, are not ancient, but -are laid upon the original steps by mediæval Makalanga, for there is a -freshness in their appearance which is never seen in steps which are -undoubtedly ancient. This belief is strengthened considerably when one -compares the flight of toe-lines with the broad, deep, and massive -steps at several points in the ascent, which were built when the -foundations of the passage walls were laid. - -At the top end of the curve in this length of passage the heights of -both walls are 9 ft., with a width of passage at this point of 2 ft. 4 -in. In this curve are traces of several rows of large steps. - -At 12 ft. above the curve the passage turns with a sharp angle to due -west-north-west. On the north or inner side at this turn is a large -buttress built up against the face of the cliff. This buttress is 19 -ft. 6 in. in height at its rear and abuts from the cliff for 2 ft. 6 -in. The front of the buttress is only 7 ft. in height. The buttress -is 19 ft. long, but wall débris fallen from the summit of the cliff -extends upwards towards the entrance to the Rock Passage for another -8 ft. The outer wall here averages from 2 ft. 6 in. to 3 ft. 6 in. in -height. This wall has every appearance of having been reconstructed at -a later period. Its face is exposed to the fall of every stone from the -walls on the summit of the precipice, and no wall débris could descend -without damaging it. Up against its face were piles of blocks which had -come from above, but some of these piles were comparatively modern. -This point in the ascent, owing to the formation of the face of the -cliff, would have guided to it all débris falling from the southern -wall of the Eastern Temple, some portions of which have fallen into the -ascent. The passage between the buttress of the outer wall is 2 ft. -wide, but at the top end of the buttress it widens out to 4 ft. where -it enters the Rock Passage. - - - (_b_) THE ROCK PASSAGE - -From this point the ascent is continued in the same direction between -the main cliff of the hill on the inner side (which at this elevated -level of the ascent is only 50 ft. above the passage) and a colossal -boulder on the outer side. This boulder beetles inwards towards the -cliff and over the heads of passers-by. The outside height of the -boulder appears to be some 80 ft. or 90 ft., and at one time before the -occupation of the hill by the ancient builders it formed part of the -main cliff from which it had fallen away for some feet, both outwards -and downwards; the depression in the face of the cliff from which it -slipped is still the exact shape of the boulder. In the Rock Passage -the height of the inside face of the boulder above the artificially -made raised floor is about 40 ft. to 20 ft., according as the ascent -rises. The ancients are believed to have filled in the split opening -between cliff and boulder to the needed height to carry their ascent. -This practice was a common one with the ancients, and a good instance -of this work is seen in the Buttress Passage in the Acropolis ruins. - -[Illustration: LOWER ENTRANCE TO ROCK PASSAGE, SOUTH-EAST ASCENT, -ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: VIEW DOWN ROCK PASSAGE, SOUTH-EAST ASCENT, ACROPOLIS] - -Once inside the Rock Passage the path rises rapidly till it reaches -the open at the 200 ft. level of the hill. The passage is 48 ft. -long, and its average width is 2 ft. 6 in., but at one point it is -barely 1 ft. 10 in. wide. Where the boulders end on the higher side a -wall runs up on the outer side for 8 ft., and this is 4 ft. to 1 ft. -higher, lessening as the path ascends. The cliff here still forms the -inner side for this distance, and at the top end is a rounded buttress -jutting out from the cliff for 3 ft., and below it, and on the south -side, are several well-defined large steps of the undoubtedly ancient -type ascending on the outer side of the buttress for 12 ft. - -At the end of this 12 ft. length the passage turns north and north-east -for 21 ft., and passes on the west side of the wedge-shaped-ended -wall, which forms the division where the path to the Higher Parapet -leaves the ascent. At the end of the 21 ft. length the walls of the -ascent appear to terminate, but the path to the Western Temple and to -the other ruins on the hill is continued through a gap made recently, -for the sake of visitors, in a Makalanga-built wall erected on ancient -foundations. This reconstruction of the wall by Makalanga without -leaving any entrance downwards to the ascent deliberately blocked it -up. This bears out the Zimbabwe headmen’s statement that within the -last fifty years they rarely used the ancient ascent in climbing up to -their kraal on the summit of the hill. Passing through the gap in the -Makalanga wall one enters the Western Enclosure, which lies at the foot -of the west face of the west wall of the Western Temple. - -But the description so far given of the ascent is incomplete, for on -the east side of the wedge-shaped buttress, which is on the west side -of the Rock Passage, is a passage to the Western Temple by the Higher -Parapet. - - - (_c_) THE HIGHER PARAPET - -The length of this parapet, which extends from within 9 ft. 6 in. of -the summit of the ancient ascent, is 78 ft., and it runs in an easterly -direction from the right-hand side of the ascent at the point where is -the upper wedge-shaped buttress and the outer parapet wall is built -along a narrow ledge at the very utmost edge of the cliff. Its front -foundation stones are wedge-shaped to suit the declivity of the rock -on which they are placed. At certain points this parapet wall has -fallen over the brink into the Rock Passage below, but the foundations -remain. This dilapidation is more apparent at the eastern end of -the parapet, where it passes on the precipice side of the face of a -projecting boulder and also of a rounded buttress 7 ft. high, which -is very well built. The boulder is erected up against the bottom part -of the rounded end of the main west wall of the Western Temple on its -southern extremity. This rounded buttress is 4 ft. west of the point -where the Higher Parapet joins the Parallel Passage, which is a still -more easterly and more elevated extension of the ancient ascent to the -Western Temple. - -Coming up the ascent, and 9 ft. 6 in. from its summit, the path divides -as before mentioned at the wedge-shaped buttress, the right-hand path -being the approach to the Higher Parapet. Three feet above this -wedge-shaped end of wall are clear traces of large steps, and at this -point and on the right-hand side is a portion of dentelle pattern -introduced into the wall, and this faces due west. This pattern -originally consisted of five columns of blocks with projecting edges, -but the lower portions of four columns now only remain. The blocks are -in five courses. Unlike the dentelle blocks lower in the ascent, and -also the blocks in this pattern on the Platform of the Western Temple, -these blocks are of the ordinary size used in building the walls, and -in size resemble the blocks used in this pattern on the east main wall -of the Eastern Temple, and also those in this pattern on the Conical -Tower in the Elliptical Temple. - -The highest part of the outer wall of the Higher Parapet is now only 2 -ft. 6 in., with a similar width on the top. The width of the approach -to this parapet from the wedge-shaped end of the dividing wall is 2 ft. -on the floor. The wall on the inner side of the parapet at its western -end is 4 ft. 6 in. to 6 ft. high, and rounds off to the south to the -wedge-shaped end where it terminates. - -Visitors should refrain from passing along the Higher Parapet unless -they are perfectly certain no one is in the Rock Passage at the time, -as any block put in motion even by the careful climber must fall -into the passage below. As before stated, the parapet wall is very -dilapidated and blocks might fall at the slightest movement near them. -But even with this caution the Higher Parapet is not a safe place -for visitors, for, as can be seen from below, the foundations of the -parapet, which are built over the brink of the precipice, show a -bulging out which must sooner or later effect the destruction of the -parapet. - -The Higher Parapet would enable the ancient defenders to effectually -block the approach of any enemy through the Rock Passage, however great -their number. - -There are two points worthy of notice in connection with this ancient -ascent:—- - -1. _Original heights of walls._—The walls of the ascent in their -original state were considerably higher than even the highest (9 ft.) -as seen at two points to-day. In discussing this matter with some of -the Makalanga headmen, it was ascertained that even within their day, -say fifty years—for Mogabe is fully seventy years of age—some of the -highest walls were 4 ft. or 5 ft. higher than they are at present. But -on examining the numerous and immense wall-débris piles which were -removed in August, 1902, the estimate as to the heights of the walls in -their original form has to be very considerably increased, for these -piles were only the débris of the inner side walls and of the inner -faces of the outer walls, since the main portions of the outer walls -which have fallen have gone down the precipice, for at its base one can -walk for over 100 yds. on wide and high piles of wall débris which has -fallen down from the outer walls of the ascent. - -The present widths of the walls also are some guide in forming an -estimate of their original heights. Some of these walls are from 5 ft. -to 7 ft. wide on their present very reduced summits, and taking the -usual Zimbabwe batter-back of 1 ft. in 6 ft. which is found in many of -the buildings of the first period of Zimbabwe architecture—and these -buildings are most manifestly of that period—it would be within a safe -limit were it stated that these passage walls were at least 15 ft. -high on either side throughout the greater length of the ascent. This -estimate would then fairly account for the great amount of wall débris -with which whole lengths of the ascent were completely choked up, in -some places to the tops of the walls on either side, and also for the -wall débris at the foot of the ascent. - -Certainly most of the damage to the walls was done centuries ago, for -the ancient blocks on the sides and tops of the débris piles have, -since they fell into their present position on the piles, become on -all their exposed faces and sides, and even on their back parts, as -weathered and time-eaten, and in some cases as decomposed, as the front -faces of the blocks remaining in the walls. - -But, unfortunately, irreparable damage has been done to these walls -within the last twenty years, and certainly within the last ten years, -for trees of not older growths than these periods were found to be -growing right in the centres of the walls, their roots pushing out -lengths of wall faces. This is the cause of the destruction of the -lower set of dentelle pattern, which has certainly been effected during -the last ten years. The inside of the wall from which the dentelle -blocks have fallen has every appearance of being quite fresh, and is -not in the slightest degree weather or time-worn. - -2. _The ascent from the coast route._—This ancient ascent being on -the south side of the hill, and running for 600 yds. from the valley -at the clear east end of the hill up the south face to the summit, -it may naturally be taken for granted that this was the path along -which all arrivals by the route from the coast at or near Sofala would -approach Zimbabwe Fortress. As there are only two ancient ascents, the -southern and the north-western, and all other parts of the hill being -inaccessible, this conjecture may probably be the correct one, for to -have traversed the North-Western Passage for such a purpose would have -taken the ancients at least one mile out of their way. Every step taken -down the Southern Passage was one taken nearer to the coast. - -On referring to _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_, it will be found -that chains of ruins of forts, occupying strategic positions at -comparatively equal distances from each other, run in a south-easterly -direction along the Motelekwe River, and are further carried along the -Sabi far into Portuguese South-East Africa. The south ascent appears -to be the north-west termination of this line from the coast, and -the importance of this approach is demonstrated by the presence of -two outer distinct and large ruins in the valley at the south-eastern -end of the hill, and these guard the lowest extremity of the ascent. -The Mapaku Ruins, misnamed Little Zimbabwe, which lie eight miles -south-east of the Great Zimbabwe, would form the first posting station -and fort for the protection of the road to the Motelekwe chain of forts. - -Besides, the contour of the country round Zimbabwe very clearly points -this route out as the ancient line of road to the south-east coast, -any other line, as can be seen from the summit of Zimbabwe Hill, being -barred by ranges of steep and high kopjes, in addition to which it may -be observed that the wagon road from Zimbabwe towards the Motelekwe and -Sabi rivers runs to-day along this identical line, as the formation of -the land permits of no other route from Zimbabwe. - -It was shown in chapter vii. that discoveries demonstrated that the -ancients exported a large quantity of the gold won from the thousands -of ancient workings on the numerous gold-belts of Southern Rhodesia. -This amount authorities have placed, on a conservative estimate, at no -less than £75,000,000. Most probably a portion of whatever gold was won -in the northern gold districts of Southern Rhodesia went to the coast -by a northern route and not _viâ_ Zimbabwe. But the gold collected from -each of the capital towns in the more southern portion of Southern -Rhodesia, the capital towns having collected the gold from their -respective sub-districts on the reefs, would come to the metropolitan -centre at Zimbabwe, ready for transmission by caravan to the coast. -The districts that in all probability sent from their capital towns -their stores of gold as they became accumulated, so far as the lines -of forts and the contiguity, geographical position, and convenience -indicate, would be the present Tati, Bulawayo, Bembesi, Selukwe, -Gwanda, Filabusi, Belingwe, etc., and the gold districts of Southern -Mashonaland. For the service of these districts the north-west ascent -at Zimbabwe would appear to be extremely natural. The gold therefore, -in all probability, was brought from these districts to Zimbabwe -along its north-west ascent, and was taken away to the coast by the -marvellously protected path leading to the south-east. - -This argument is not mere romancing. It is one which has every evidence -in its favour so far as any evidence can at present be secured. Passing -along the south-eastern ascent we may be pardoned if some poor attempt -be made to reconstruct some of the scenes that have taken place in -ancient times within its narrow and tortuous walls. Here may have -occurred the greeting of fresh arrivals from the coast, or from the -mother country of the ancient colonists; the bringing of news from a -far country, possibly news from Yemen, and later from Tyre and Sidon; -news of changes in home dynasties or of the progress of those ancient -and classic wars which shook the world and started fresh eras and -epochs in its history. - -There, too, might have been seen the train of slaves carrying their -golden burden in claw-hammer-shaped ingots as stated to have been shown -on the monuments of Punt, and as they are pictured in the tombs of -ancient Egypt, of which the ancient soapstone moulds are represented -in collections of relics found in Rhodesia. Ivory, apes, ostrich -feathers, and gorgeous birds would be borne in the caravan, while gangs -of slaves, doomed to exile, would follow in the convoy, for all these, -since before the dawn of history, have been exported to the “Near East” -from Sofala and ancient Rhodesia. - -Again, there might have been seen the dusky Semitic crowd watching -the departure of the results of their toil on so many ancient -gold-bearing districts, dressed in short, armless tunics (p. 108),[59] -and displaying massive gold bangles, exquisitely made and chased with -Zimbabwe designs, on arms, wrists, legs, and ankles, and with chains -of heavy gold beads round their necks, and in their hands the rods of -office with the beaten gold sun images on the tops, gold ferules at -the ends, or copper battle-axes and spearheads thickly plated with -gold—for all these are articles plentifully found with the buried -ancients of Rhodesia. - -One can almost see the vantage grounds seized by the younger members -of the ancient crowd to view such spectacles, for on the same granite -cliff-ledges, foot-polished by ages of wear, the young men of the -Makalanga love to climb and squat. - -At the lower end of the passage, and near the two ancient forts which -protect its south-eastern extremity, would be the soldiery in readiness -to take up their position in guarding the caravan. One can realise how -the ancients climbed on to the boulders at the very summit of Zimbabwe -Hill to strain anxious eyes in watching the progress of the convoy -down the valley towards the south-east till it disappeared in the blue -distance of the lower land. - -Romance is most undoubtedly buried on the floors of all Zimbabwe ruins -throughout Rhodesia, but Romance rivalling that of Rider Haggard at his -best pervades the massive walls of this ancient ascent as it insinuates -its upward way along the precipitous side of Zimbabwe Hill. - - - WESTERN ENCLOSURE - -To reach the _Western Temple_ on the hill from the _South-East Ancient -Ascent_, the _Western Enclosure_ must first be crossed, seeing that the -_Higher Parapet_ path is now become dangerous. - -This enclosure lies on the west side of the main west wall of the -_Western Temple_. The highest part of the enclosure—the east—is 212 -ft., and the lowest—the west part—is 205 ft. above the valley. The main -west wall of the _Western Temple_ forms its easterly boundary for 71 -ft., the other walls making the enclosure nearly square. The wall on -the north side is 52 ft. long, 4 ft. to 6 ft. high, and 3 ft. to 4 ft. -wide on present summit. The west wall is 81 ft. long, and similar in -width and height. The south side, with no wall now remaining, is 61 ft. -long, and at 4 ft. to 7 ft. below the south edge, on the outside of -this enclosure, runs the _Higher Parapet_ previously described. - -None of these enclosing walls, except, of course, the main wall of the -temple, are ancient. They are rudely built, or, rather, neatly piled. -This is obviously Makalanga work of a generation or two past, and the -Zimbabwe Makalanga admit this to be the case. But at several points the -walls run on ancient foundations. These modern natives, in imitation of -the monoliths on the temple wall above, have erected a slate monolith -on their north wall, but upside down. Slate beams, evidently fallen -from the wall above, have been used by the Makalanga as building -material, as using them saved labour. - -But there are strong evidences that the builders of the ruins -themselves used this ground as an enclosure, and these in addition to -the remains of the enclosing walls’ foundations. At a distance of 15 -ft. in front of the main wall of the temple is a wall built in good -style and, till recently, perfectly buried in soil. This portion of a -wall runs from north-east to south-west for 7 ft. 6 in., and is 2 ft. 6 -in. high, ending at each extremity abruptly, the south-west end showing -a tendency to curve more to the south. - -Also in the north-east corner and at the foot of the main wall of the -temple, and at 7 ft. and 15 ft. respectively from it, there are very -decided traces of terrace walls, with parapets descending into the -interior of the enclosure. The probable purpose of these terraced walls -is alluded to in the description of the _Western Parapet_, as this -parapet runs through other enclosures described later. - -The drop of 7 ft. towards the west in the level of the surface of this -enclosure rather tends to support the theory advanced by Messrs. Bent -and Swan that the main west wall of the _Western Temple_ once stood -some yards more to the west of the present west main wall. This theory -is at present somewhat difficult to accept, for the existing wall is -the widest wall yet known in any ruin in Rhodesia, not excepting the -huge main walls of the _Elliptical Temple_ in the valley. This main -wall of the _Western Temple_ is 11 ft. wide on its summit at 18 ft. -above the ground. Still there are other points, mentioned later in -connection with the _Western Temple_, which would seem to support -Messrs. Bent and Swan’s theory. - -Passing from the _Ascent_, along the south side of this enclosure, -climbing the wall débris in front, and passing through a gap in the -dilapidated part of the main wall directly opposite, one enters the -_Western Temple_ at its south-west corner. - - - - - CHAPTER XV - - THE ACROPOLIS RUINS - (_Continued_) - - - THE WESTERN TEMPLE - -This temple is the most westerly portion of the main ruins on _Zimbabwe -Hill_, and is built upon the steep edge of the western side of the -kopje at 220 ft. above the valley and also immediately on the summit -of the precipice, some 90 ft. in height, which runs along the south -face of the hill. A splendid view of the _Elliptical Temple_ in the -valley, as well as of the many ruins within the _Zimbabwe Reserve_, is -obtainable from this point. - -The _Western Temple_ has the form of an amphitheatre, its area being -in the shape of a little less than a quarter of a circle, the centre -from which the south and north walls radiate being at its most easterly -point and 122 ft. from the centre of the inner face of the massive main -west wall which curves with a magnificently bold and perfect sweep -towards due west, connects the north and south walls at their westerly -extremities, and runs for 137 ft. on its inner face from south-west to -north-west. - -This curved west wall is the most massive structure so far discovered -in any ancient ruin in Rhodesia, though it is not the longest. It has a -width of summit at 25 ft. from the ground of 14 ft. 6 in., the general -average width being 11 ft., and is still liberally decorated with huge -granite and slate monoliths and a row of small conical towers which are -now more or less imperfect. - -The lengths of the walls along their inner faces are as follows: north -wall, 90 ft.; south wall, with gaps, 127 ft.; and the curved west wall, -137 ft. - -The present surface of the area is very irregular owing to the soil and -wall débris having been piled up at several points by excavators whose -trenches and digging are still to be seen. Disregarding these piles the -highest part of the area is at its eastern end, the lowest being at the -inside base of the west wall. - -_North wall._—This wall may be divided into several lengths from east -to north. The 22 ft. length from the east reaches to _The Platform -Cave_. This length of wall supports _The Platform_ on its south-west -side. Here the wall is 12 ft. high, measuring from the present surface -of the temple, which is, so far as can be ascertained, some 3 ft. to -5 ft. above the highest and latest ancient floor. Towards the 15 ft. -point the wall is carried over a huge boulder 11 ft. high, also over a -smaller boulder partly resting on the first boulder and partly against -another boulder, which forms part of the north side of _The Platform -Cave_, along which boulders the height of the wall is 11 ft. over the -large boulder, and 6 ft. over the smaller and higher one, but including -the height of a rounded end of wall on _The Platform_ above which is -built upon this wall, the height of the wall above the smaller boulder -is 11 ft. - -The 14 ft. length of this wall clears the entrance to _The Platform -Cave_ and the steps, now dilapidated, leading from the floor of the -temple to the upper flight of steps to _The Platform_. In addition to -these steps on the west side of the cave, there was once a wall on the -summit of the boulder up which the steps ran, but the boulder is now -bare save for a small cap of red _daga_ (clay) which once formed the -foundation of a small Makalanga granary, such positions being usually -selected on account of their freedom from white ants. - -The 28 ft. length is built upon and along the top of a long boulder. -This wall on its inner face is in good condition, but its back part -which forms a portion of the south wall of the _Platform Enclosure_ is -very dilapidated. The heights of this wall are 7 ft. 6 in., 10 ft., and -5 ft. at three different points going north-west. The last 7 ft. of -this length is a gap, the foundations only remaining. - -The 26 ft. length of this wall extends from the gap to the inside of -the north end of the main west wall, where it acts as the south side -of the west extremity of the deep passage recently unburied which runs -down the centre of the _Platform Enclosure_. It is 5 ft. to 6 ft. high -on the temple side. This 26 ft. length of wall has been very seriously -damaged by roots of large trees. - -The widths of the summits of the north wall range between 3 ft. 6 -in. and 5 ft., but as _The Platform_ ends where the west end of _The -Platform_ comes flush to the temple face of the wall, it is difficult -to state any width, but still it must be exceptionally wide to carry -the wall which here rises to 18 ft. from the present filled-in level of -the centre of the temple. - -_West wall._—The west wall of the temple runs from north-west to -south-west, and is 137 ft. long on its inner face, and may, for the -purposes of this description, be divided into two lengths, _i.e._, 29 -ft. and 108 ft. commencing at its north end. - -The 29 ft. length extends from the north end of the west wall to the -south-west side of a divisional wall of the same height, but only 4 ft. -wide on its summit, which is built up against the inner face of the -main west wall and protrudes 9 ft. into the temple in a south-easterly -direction. This divisional wall has a drain-hole right through it at 6 -ft. below its summit. It is evident that the bottom of the drain, which -passes through dry masonry, once had a lining of cement which resembles -in make and quality that used in the lowest floor of the temple. This -length of the main wall is still intact. - -The 108 ft. length extends from the south-west side of the divisional -wall just mentioned to the southern extremity of the main wall. At 10 -ft. south of this divisional wall is the lowest point in the interior -of the temple. At 33 ft. along this length, still measuring in a -southerly direction, the wall has been considerably damaged, there -being a wide and deep gap on the outer side and a depression in the -general line of summit of the wall on its inner face. From this point -in this length to 86 ft. the wall is again intact, and at its original -height. The last 22 ft. of the 108 ft. length is very considerably -dilapidated. The west wall terminates on the south-south-west in a -rounded end, the lower part of which is exceedingly well built and -stands 11 ft. above the ground. This rounded end is one of the two -rounded buttresses which form the north or right-hand side of the -west end of the _Parallel Passage_ on approaching it from the _Higher -Parapet_. - -The widths of the west wall at the summit are as follows: north -extremity, 13 ft. 8 in.; at north end of the 108 ft. length, 14 ft. 6 -in.; at the gap, 2 ft. to 3 ft.; at south-south-west of gap, 12 ft. The -gap is 23 ft. long on the inner part and 29 ft. long on the outer or -west side. - -The heights of the wall above the present levels of the ground, outside -and inside, are as follows: northern extremity, 25 ft. outside, and -6 ft. inside; at northern extremity of the 108 ft. length, 22 ft. -outside, and 16 ft. inside; at south-west of gap, 21 ft. outside, and -10 ft. 6 in. inside. The 22 ft. portion of the 108 ft. length is simply -a great pile of wall débris. The outside measurements are taken from -the top of the _Western Parapet_, which runs along at the foot of the -west face of the wall. - -There are two points which will make this curved west wall of great -interest to archæologists:— - -(1) It has the widest summit of any ancient wall yet discovered in -Rhodesia, and - -(2) The _Monoliths_ and _Conical Towers_ alternating along its summit. -It should be stated that there are two lengths of summits of this wall -still remaining intact at their original heights. One length is at -the northern end of the wall, and is 44 ft. in length, and the other at -the south of the gap, and this is 46 ft. in length. - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO COVERED PASSAGE, WESTERN TEMPLE, ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: SMALL TOWER ON WEST WALL OF WESTERN TEMPLE, ACROPOLIS] - -On the first line of summit the centres of the towers, foundations, -or traces, are at the following points, measuring from the northern -end: 6 ft., north face of tower 2 ft. high only now remains; 12 ft., -foundations of tower with débris stones with rounded faces; 18 ft., -portion of foundation only; 24 ft., tower in good condition to 2 ft. -in height; 30 ft., ditto; 36 ft., débris only; and 42 ft., traces of -foundation and débris. - -On this length of summit there are three slate monoliths with tops, -some fractured, standing 3 ft. to 5 ft. above the summit of the wall. -These are practically equi-distant. Two other slate monoliths were -found in the débris at the outer base of the wall, and judging by the -spot where found, there are probably two others still buried in the -débris. - -On the second line of summit, which extends for 46 ft. from south of -the gap, one round tower remains intact to a height of 3 ft. 6 in., -where it has a diameter of 3 ft. 4 in. The towers or traces of towers -on this line of summit are at the following points, commencing from the -gap; 4 ft., tower, the most perfect specimen remaining; 10 ft., traces -of tower; 15 ft., ditto; 20 ft., foundations only; 27 ft., ditto; 33 -ft., traces; 42 ft., ditto. - -On this line of summit there are four slate monoliths, more or less -erect, standing at equi-distant points. One flat granite monolith -lies on the wall by the side of the hole in which it once stood. One -slate monolith was found at the outer base of the wall where the gap -divides the two lines of summits. The heights of these monoliths, some -fractured, range from 5 ft. to 9 ft. above the summit of the wall. One -of these must, in all probability, be 15 ft. long. - -There seems to be little doubt that these towers, as erected -originally, were conical. The most perfect tower shows a very decided -drawing-in of the upper courses, while among the débris of each tower -are smaller blocks, showing by the contracted curve of their rounded -faces that the courses they represented had much smaller radii than -those of the courses below. - -_Architecture and construction of west wall._—Both the architecture -and construction of this wall are most obviously of the First Zimbabwe -Period; but most of the material used is of an inferior quality to that -in the other walls of this temple. This is patent to anyone inspecting -the western face of the wall, where very many of the granite blocks -are cracked, and in some places considerably decomposed. Some of the -courses are also very irregular, and have steep gradients, while -many courses disappear, or are false in order to restore the level -of depressed courses, besides which the blocks vary greatly in size. -Still, the wall does not show any other feature of the Second Period -Zimbabwe architecture. As stated before, it is undoubtedly the most -massive wall of any ancient ruin yet discovered in Rhodesia, but it was -most probably built, or rather reconstructed, during a late portion -of the First Period, and, as Bent suggests, later than other walls -of this temple. He further suggests that this is a reconstruction -of the west wall on a curve some yards further east of its original -position. In the description of the _Western Enclosure_ (see later), -of which this wall forms the eastern side, it is stated that there -is much difficulty in accepting this conjecture. The opportunities -opened to the author for examining the ground to the west of the wall -were far better than those opened to Bent, and the failure to discover -any ancient foundation which could have carried even a much smaller -wall was complete; in fact, no foundations whatever anywhere within -the point of distance mentioned by Bent. Moreover, the south end of -the present wall, as seen at the eastern end of the _Higher Parapet_, -is most excellent work, and appears to have been erected at the same -time as the other walls of this temple. Bent’s suggestion as to a -reconstruction of this wall at a later period is highly probable, but -this reconstruction was only partial, it did not include the south end, -and it was upon the original foundations. The radius of the segment of -the south end demonstrates that the correctness of the curvature of -this wall would have been destroyed had the reconstructed portion been -built upon any other line of foundation. - -_South wall._—This wall is the large massive wall seen from the valley -on the south and west sides of the hill. It is built upon the actual -brink of the south precipice, and is 78 ft. long, but including the -foundations in the gap at its eastern extremity, its total length is -127 ft. - -The first 21 ft. measuring from the western end forms the outer wall of -the narrow passage from the _Higher Parapet_ in the _South-East Ascent_ -to the _Western Temple_, and also forms the south wall of the western -end of the _Parallel Passage_. This wall at its western end is much -reduced by dilapidation, and here its height rising from the bare rock -of the precipice is 10 ft. above the floor of the passage. The wall at -this point terminates in a beautifully rounded end, which is a splendid -work of art, rivalling in this respect the round end of the wall on -the south side of _Pattern Passage_. From the western extremity the -south wall rises in height on its outer face as it extends east to 25 -ft., and 35 ft. for the rest of the wall as far as the gap. Here the -original summit is practically intact as far as the west side of the -gap, where the foundations of the wall are level with the ground and -are about 8 ft. wide. The inside face of the wall above the interior -surface of the temple ranges from 11 ft. to 17 ft. according as the -ground rises and falls. - -There are no traces of round towers on this wall, but three slate -monoliths and one of granite are still more or less erect on the higher -portion of the wall. Two slate monoliths were found by the writer -at the inner base of the wall, and these would have made the line -equi-distant. - -_East side of temple._—This is 36 ft. long. The first 10 ft. from the -south side is a débris heap; from 10 ft. to 26 ft. is a wall rounding -towards the east, and this wall is 18 ft. 6 in. high; 26 ft. to 29 ft. -is the _Covered Passage_ where the wall is 9 ft. over the passage; 29 -ft. to 36 ft. is a wall extending to _The Platform_, where the height -of the wall is 14 ft. from the lower end of the boulder some 9 ft. -above the pile of débris lying on the floor. It is at this point that -the north wall before described commences. - -_Centre of arc._—Schlichter suggested that the centres of the arcs of -those massive and decorated walls, which are curved either towards the -west or east, might have had some peculiar importance in the minds of -the ancient builders. This suggestion is based on his examination, not -only of the temples at Zimbabwe, but of the larger elliptical buildings -elsewhere in the country. - -At the centre of the arc of the curved, decorated, and massively built -west wall in the _Western Temple_ on the _Acropolis_ (and this is the -widest wall yet discovered in Rhodesia) a discovery has been made which -may possibly bear on the question of the orientation of these temples, -though in the matter of orientation or otherwise it would be much -safer to keep an open mind till more information can be placed before -accredited experts acquainted with this branch of science. - -The spot marked R on Bent’s plan—“centre of arc of great wall”—was -covered on the surface by a very old Makalanga _daga_ floor broken in -pieces by an old and decayed tree. These loose slabs of clay flooring -having been removed, about 2 ft. depth of blocks and soil was found. -The blocks had no relative position to one another, and they were in -all positions. Immediately below this débris was found a yellow granite -cement structure. This is semi-circular in shape, measuring 11 ft. 8 -in. round the curved base from end to end. The straight back part is 6 -ft. 3 in. across. The structure is formed by two rounded curved rims, -one on the other, the top one receding 4 in. from the face of the lower -one. The lower rim is 1 ft. high, and the upper one 8 in. The structure -is hollow to a depth of 9 in., and the interior extends evenly all -round to within 10 in. from the front upper face of the structure. - -At 8 ft. 6 in. from the centre of the front of this structure, and -immediately due south behind it, is a granite cement cone in splendid -condition. This cone is 4 ft. 11 in. in circumference at base, and is -1 ft. 4 in. high. At 10 in. due east of the first cone is a smaller -one with a circumference at base of 2 ft. 4 in., and this is 6 in. -high. The semi-circular structure and the two cones are connected by a -flooring of the same excellent quality of cement, and are structurally -one. - -On following the cement floor towards the north-east it was found to -be decomposed by water and to have become like bright yellow clay. The -lowest part of the surface of the interior of the eastern end of this -temple is at this point, and from it rain-water could not escape. This -decomposed cement was swagged and depressed considerably by the damp, -but it was easily followed for 28 ft. 6 in. The granite cement floor -runs in all directions from the semi-circular structure, but in most -parts it is still solid, exceedingly hard, and in good condition. - -At the 28 ft. 6 in. point and at 5 ft. below the filled-in surface -of the interior of the temple a cement cylinder was found. This is -beautifully rounded and has four bevelled bosses, equi-distant, on -its side. The cylinder was found upon a platform of the best cement -yet discovered at Zimbabwe. It has a diameter of 1 ft. 8 in., is 5 -in. high, and has a circumference at the curved-in base of rounded -side of 4 ft. 2 in. The bosses or knobs, which are bevelled, project -outwards 1 in. The side is formed by three flat bevelled faces running -all round, the centre bevelled face projecting half an inch beyond -the others. The top is level, and the bottom part curves inwards at -its base. The cylinder is perfectly free of any damage and is without -the slightest scratch on its smooth surface. The workmanship is of -so excellent a character that it is still almost equal in design and -construction to any similar object that could be turned out at a -European workshop. - -The cylinder stands on a platform at 3 ft. 6 in. from its front on west -side, the face of the platform being formed of two almost semi-circular -faces meeting and turning inwards some few inches eastwards towards the -cylinder. The platform is 1 ft. 1 in. high on the northern curve, the -southern extremity being well rounded off, while the northern extremity -runs into and under a bank of débris not yet cleared away. - -The “finds” at the centre of the arc in this temple included the usual -unpleasing emblems of Nature Worship; a piece of forked iron, more -rust than iron, with six gold bosses the size of peas at equi-distant -points; these are riveted on the iron with corresponding gold bosses on -the opposite side, the rivets through the iron being of gold; a sheet -of beaten gold 3½ in. by 2¼ in., also some fragments of beaten gold and -gold tacks; fragments of soapstone bowls and beams, old pottery, some -peculiarly shaped natural stones, including serpentine stones, and an -Isafuba game stone. - -The “finds” at the cylinder were three large black beads with white -lines possibly identical with a similar bead found by Bent on the -Acropolis, to which (p. 205) he ascribes a very great age; also under -the curved-in side of the cylinder were scratched out some fifty light -green beads with encircling ribs, and these both local Makalanga and -Barotse natives state are completely strange to them; some yellow and -green glass beads of microscopic size, the holes being scarcely visible -without the aid of a magnifying glass; a miniature phallus carved, -old pottery, and a small block of mica split up into sheets. In the -side of the trench on a clay floor 1 ft. above, and at the back of -the cylinder, is a stratum of ashes out of which a quantity of beaten -copper sheetings, copper tacks, a large copper battle-axe, and a very -thick copper bangle were drawn. - -Above the cylinder were at least four floors with ashes on each, and -the remains of a furnace on two of them. Above the top floor were 3 ft. -of very hard soil, and 18 in. of black soil, and on the top were the -remains of a decayed tree, which must have been at least fifty or sixty -years old. - -_Covered Passage._—This passage is at the eastern end of the temple, to -which it served as an approach from _The Platform_. It is 2 ft. wide, -6 ft. 6 in. high, has a rounded end on the north side, is 10 ft. long, -and the high wall over it is supported by five large slate lintels. The -passage opens out at the east end at the foot of _The Winding Stairs_. -In the passage the writer found (August, 1902) a Makalanga grave, and -with the permission of the local chief, the skeletal remains were -removed and re-interred elsewhere. - -_Platform Cave._—This cave is immediately below _The Platform_, and -opens on to the floor of the temple. It is 8 ft. to 10 ft. high -throughout a length of 22 ft. At 11 ft. from the entrance the width -is 2 ft. 10 in., and at the innermost point 4 ft. 6 in., where it is -walled up with blocks. The cave is formed by an immense boulder on -the east side and by two large boulders on the west side. It had two -floors, the higher floor being 4 ft. above the lower one. The top -floor, which was of red clay, was obviously of Makalanga make, but the -lower one, which is made of granite cement, is believed to be of a late -ancient period. Probably a still more ancient flooring may be found -lower. On the top floor was a modern Makalanga grave, and the remains -were removed elsewhere and re-interred. On the lower floor some of the -fragments of the decorated soapstone found by Bent, and of which he -mentions what fragments were missing, were discovered by the writer -within a few feet of the spot where Bent found the larger portions of -this beam. - -_Stairs to Platform._—The entrance to the _Platform Cave_ is narrowed -by the lower steps of a flight of stairs rising from the interior of -the temple over the two boulders, which form the northern side of -the cave, up to the upper flight of stairs on the north side of _The -Platform_. The steps are considerably ruined, but can be traced, the -stones being covered with a cement not believed to be ancient. - -_Parallel Passage._—This passage extends from the point where the -_Higher Parapet_ enters the temple at its south-west corner, the south -wall of the temple forming its south side. The eastern extremity of -this passage is at the wide gap in the south wall. Its total length -is 71 ft. The walls on the north side vary in height from 5 ft. to 13 -ft., according to the rise and fall of its floor. Its width varies -from 2 ft. to 3 ft. Half-way along are traces of steps, also at its -lowest point. This _Parallel Passage_ appears to be similar in purpose, -so far as can be surmised, to that of the _Parallel Passage_ in the -_Elliptical Temple_ in the valley. - -_Internal walls._—These are five in number, so far as discoveries -have been made; and for the purposes of this description, and for the -assistance of visitors, are lettered A to E on boards affixed to the -walls. - -_A._ This is the wall mentioned in the description of the main west -wall as being built up against the inner face of the main wall, and as -protruding 9 ft. into the temple in a south-easterly direction. - -_B._ This is a small isolated section of a wall with broken ends, and -is 28 ft. south-west of the north wall, and 38 ft. from the west wall. -It is 4 ft. long, 2 ft. 6 in. wide, 4 ft. high, and its faced sides are -north-east and south-west. - -_C._ A small isolated section of wall 38 ft. 6 in. from the north wall, -and 44 ft. from the west wall. It is 5 ft. high and 7 ft. wide, and -its ends are broken. Its faces are fairly well built, its foundations -rest on made ground, and red clay, not cement, can be seen on the -trench all round the wall. - -[Illustration: WEST ENTRANCE TO PARALLEL PASSAGE, WESTERN TEMPLE, -ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: BUTTRESS PASSAGE, ACROPOLIS] - -_D._ A large wall stands at 9 ft. 6 in. from the west wall at a point -42 ft. north from the south end of that wall. It has an abrupt and -unfinished end facing south, from which end it rounds boldly towards -the east, where it appears to terminate in a bank of soil debris. The -quality of material and workmanship displayed in this wall are very -similar to those of the west wall. Its height is 9 ft. where it faces -the south, but where it faces west is a portion of wall 6 ft. high -erected on its summit, and this upper wall is 6 ft. long and 4 ft. -wide, being rounded at its end facing west. The sides of the upper and -lower walls are flush to each other. - -_E._ At the foot of the boulder over which the north wall is carried -is a trench, and at a depth of 4 ft. below the present level of the -interior of the temple is a very strong cemented floor, on which stands -about 4 sq. ft. of the rounded end of a cement wall of most excellent -material and make. These are believed to be ancient, and if such be -the case, then no antiquity could be claimed for walls B and C, which -are built upon the filled-in soil of a higher level. The remains of a -rounded stone buttress are also to be seen in this trench. This trench -was sunk through the red clay of a Makalanga threshing-floor. - -_Sections of floors._—Three sections of what are believed to be ancient -floors can be seen in the cutting at the angle formed by the north -and west walls. At 5 ft. below the present surface of the temple is -an ancient floor of strong yellow granite cement 1 ft. 4 in. thick; -above this is a red cement floor 1 ft. thick; above this is another red -cement floor 1 ft. 2 in. thick; while the top floor is made of ordinary -Makalanga clay. A red cement bed lies under the lowest floor. - - - - - CHAPTER XVI - - THE ACROPOLIS RUINS - (_Continued_) - - Platform Enclosure—Cleft Rock Enclosure—The Platform—Balcony - Wall—Little Enclosure—The Winding Stairs—Upper Passage—East - Passage—Buttress Passage—South Enclosures A, B, and C—South - Cave—South Passage—Central Passage. - - - PLATFORM ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure is on the north side of the _Western Temple_, and -immediately at the foot of the stairs leading up the north-west side -of _The Platform_. The east side is 46 ft. long, and is formed by a -wall 19 ft. high and 7 ft. wide at 5 ft. above the present level of -the interior. The north wall is 33 ft. along its face, and including -a rounded corner at the north-east. It is 3 ft. wide at its present -reduced height, which averages from 2 ft. 6 in. to 5 ft. above the rock -floor. The north wall is built upon the edge of a high boulder, which -boulder forms the floor of the enclosure on its north side. From north -to north-west is an open space enclosed by a Makalanga-built wall which -is carried across and blocks up an ancient entrance. From north-west to -south the wall is 51 ft. long, and forms part of the north wall of the -_Western Temple_. It is 4 ft. 6 in. wide on its present reduced summit, -which is very dilapidated, its length including a wide gap. The extreme -south-eastern side is formed by the walls supporting the steps from -this enclosure to the summit of _The Platform_. - -In the south-east corner of this enclosure is a passage leading into -the _Cleft Rock Enclosure_. This passage is 10 ft. long, the walls on -either side are 6 ft. in height, and the width varies from 2 ft. to -4 ft. 10 in. This passage was only discovered in July, 1902, when it -was found to contain a Makalanga grave apparently about twenty years -old. The remains were removed and re-interred at the right side of the -entrance to the _Cleft Rock Enclosure_. There were traces of steps in -this passage, but these had been destroyed by masses of falling débris. - -On the east side and at 21 ft. from this passage is a large squared -entrance, also leading into _Cleft Rock Enclosure_. This appears -to be a reconstruction of an older entrance or a late construction -altogether, or possibly a new entrance through an old wall. The -entrance is 6 ft. high, 2 ft. 6 in. wide, 7 ft. long, and has squared -walls. Most probably this entrance was originally covered, for the -remains of slate lintels can be seen on either side in the wall above -it, and quantities of long pieces of fractured slate beams were found -on its floor. - -The area of this enclosure is divided into different levels. The floor -on the south-west side for 28 ft. by 14 ft. is formed by the top of a -huge flat-topped boulder. The floor at the extreme north is also formed -by the top of a boulder. The middle portion between these two floors -consists of a depression of some 10 ft. to 14 ft. lower than the rock -floors on either side, the lowest portion being at the north-west end. - -In this depression, and running from the north-west toward the squared -entrance in the east wall, is a deep and narrow passage, the wall of -which on the south-west side is the retaining wall for the higher floor -on that side. The north-east wall of the passage appears to have been -a Makalanga reconstruction of an ancient wall, especially as several -of the walls in the immediate vicinity are undoubtedly Makalanga, and -claimed by them as such, and, moreover, Makalanga articles were found -at the base of its foundation. Still, the wall is so dilapidated that -it is difficult to state one’s opinion as to its age. This passage runs -west for 72 ft. throughout the length of this enclosure, and passes -out on to the _Western Parapet_, which runs along the west base of the -west wall of the _Western Temple_. The width of the passage varies -from 2 ft. to 4 ft., and with side walls averaging in height 5 ft. to -14 ft. on the south side, and 4 ft. to 7 ft. on the north side. In -the description of the newly discovered _North-West Ancient Ascent_, -it will be seen that this passage forms an important section in that -ascent. - -At the south-east corner of the enclosure, and extending for 6 ft. from -the east wall, is a small wall of three different faces at different -levels all facing north. It was evidently intended to act as a buttress -to the steps from _The Platform_ down into the narrow passage between -the two side floors of this enclosure. - - - CLEFT ROCK ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure lies to the east of the _Platform Enclosure_, and its -west wall is the same as forms the east wall of that enclosure. At all -other points its sides are formed by cliffs and large boulders rising -to the height of some 50 ft. and 60 ft. The west side is 46 ft. long, -and its north and south sides are about 86 ft. each in length, these -meeting at their extreme east. - -_Cleft Rock_, which is so very often seen in photographs of the -Zimbabwe ruins, rises for about 25 ft. above the surface of the -enclosure on its north side and extends downwards for 15 ft. below it -on the outside. It is 3 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft. 6 in. wide throughout. -Possibly it was an ancient ascent from the _Rock Holes Walk_, as a -quantity of wall débris lies at its outside base. - -All the divisional walls of the interior are undoubtedly of Makalanga -construction, and the local Makalanga claim them as having been made -early in the time of Mokomo, the previous Zimbabwe chief, whose -kraal occupied the north summit of this hill. This remark does not -apply to the buttresses on either side of the west entrance. - -[Illustration: THE CLEFT ROCK, CLEFT ROCK ENCLOSURE, LOOKING SOUTH FROM -EXTERIOR, ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: A NATURAL ARCHWAY IN CENTRAL PASSAGE, ACROPOLIS] - -The enclosure is approached on the south-west by the recently opened -passage at the north foot of _The Platform_ steps, also on the west by -the squared entrance from the _Platform Enclosure_, and on the south -it is believed to have had an entrance through the _Buttress Passage_ -(described later). The huge pile of stone-wall débris on the south -side was recently stacked here, having been removed from the _Platform -Enclosure_ and passage. - - - THE PLATFORM - -This is an elevated position at the east corner of the _Western -Temple_, commanding a splendid view of the whole of the interior of -the temple and of the surrounding enclosures. It appears to have been -erected for the same purposes as were _The Platform_ in the _Elliptical -Temple_ in the valley, and the _Ancient Balcony_ in the _Eastern -Temple_ on the hill. - -Its height is 27 ft. 6 in. above the present floor of the temple, and -about 32 ft. above any of its ancient floors. It is 250 ft. above the -level of the valley. The summit of _The Platform_ projects out towards -the west from the upper face of a huge boulder which forms the west end -of the cliffs and boulders which ridge along the summit of this hill. - -A wall 2 ft. high and from 1 ft. 10 in. to 2 ft. 6 in. wide runs west -from the boulder at the back across the centre of _The Platform_ and -terminates in a rounded end overlooking the temple. On the east side of -this low wall is an embrasure 3 ft. wide, also overlooking the temple, -at the south end of which is a parapet wall now from 1 ft. to 3 ft. -high and 12 ft. long, also on the edge of the temple wall. This forms -the west side of the approach to _The Platform_ from the south, which -is further formed by the _Winding Stairs_. - -On the north side of _The Platform_ is a flight of stairs, now -considerably ruined by roots of trees forcing out the steps. This -flight ascends from the granite rock floor of the _Platform Enclosure_ -from between two rounded buttresses. Half-way up the steps pass between -two small, low walls, the space between them being 2 ft. These walls -are parallel for a few feet, but as the steps descend they round off -on each side away from the steps. This flight of stairs is the last -and highest section of the _North-West Ancient Ascent_ from the valley -where are the large water-holes or dongas (see _North-West Ancient -Ascent_). - -At the top of these steps and on the east side of _The Platform_ is the -celebrated _Dentelle Pattern_. - -This ancient wall decoration is the sixth yet discovered in Rhodesia, -and until more is known of the similar pattern at Matendele Ruins, it -can be tentatively concluded that this pattern on _The Platform_ is by -far the best and the most complete specimen extant in Rhodesia. - -Its present dimensions are 3 ft. 6 in. wide and 3 ft. 6 in. high, -and it consists of four columns of small, shallow blocks laid flat, -with corners outwards, and flush with each other, each block thus -showing two faces, the whole enclosed on top, bottom, and south sides -by an angular frame of large blocks. The north side of the frame has -disappeared. It is probable that this pattern once possessed a fifth -column of dentelle blocks, as the foundations, providing sufficient -space for another column, still remain, and there are more of these -small blocks lying in the débris below, each with two faces, generally -time-worn. This pattern faces west, but very slightly to the south of -west. In the summer of the Southern Hemisphere it exactly faces the -setting sun, the great slanting monolith then being between it and the -setting sun. - -The other special features of _The Platform_ are the _Monoliths_. - -Two tall and flat-faced granite monoliths are still standing on -_The Platform_, while one slate monolith lies prone on the south floor -of _The Platform_, with a few feet of its length projecting over the -temple wall. This last monolith is 10 ft. long, and at its centre part -is 2 ft. 2 in. in circumference. This monolith is intact. - -[Illustration: VIEW OF THE PLATFORM AT WESTERN TEMPLE, ACROPOLIS, FROM -MAIN WEST WALL] - -[Illustration: DENTELLE PATTERN ON PLATFORM, WESTERN TEMPLE, ACROPOLIS] - -The heights of the two standing monoliths are: the erect monolith 8 ft. -above _The Platform_, and the slanting monolith 11 ft. 6 in., and their -respective circumferences are 2 ft. 2 in. and 2 ft. 9 in. The one in -front of the _Dentelle Pattern_ slants considerably to due north.[60] -Its base, built into the wall, must be of great length to support the -enormous weight of this large and slanting slab of granite, especially -as this monolith had once been of greater length. The fracture on its -top can be seen from the summit of the boulder behind. The fractured -portion was found at the foot of the stairs, and this measures 3 ft. -2 in., thus making the exposed portion of the monolith not less than -14 ft. 8 in. in length. There is no evidence of the slanting of the -monolith having taken place since its erection. - - - BALCONY WALL - -This is on the south side of _The Platform_, from which it is reached. -The top of this wall is level with the top of the _Winding Stairs_, and -it forms the western end of _East Passage_, and the eastern wall of -the _Western Temple_. It is 21 ft. long and from 4 ft. to 6 ft. wide. -Through it is the _Covered Passage_ (see _Western Temple_). - - - LITTLE ENCLOSURE - -This can be seen from the _Balcony Wall_ between the southern end of -which and the _Upper Passage_ it lies. It is 8 ft. deep, 5 ft. wide, -and 11 ft. long. The entrance appears to have been at outside of the -south-western end of the _Upper Passage_. It is almost entirely filled -up with débris. It once had a granite cement dado 3 in. thick on its -sides, some of which still remain intact. It is from this enclosure -that the drain-hole on the west side of the _Upper Passage_ emerges. - - - THE WINDING STAIRS - -These lead from _The Platform_ to the _East Passage_, which again leads -to the eastern extremity of the _Acropolis Ruins_. The stairs are 14 -ft. long, and descend 8 ft., and are 4 ft. to 6 ft. wide. The wall on -the south side is 4 ft. to 7 ft. high as the stairs descend. The wall -at the east end is 7 ft. high. The face of a huge boulder forms the -north side. The foot of the stairs, where they turn towards the south, -is covered by a narrow wall supported by an old wooden beam. This beam -is not ancient, but the old Makalanga who occupied these ruins may have -inserted it to make the stairs safer to use. Fragments of slate lintel -were found in the débris at the foot of the stairs. - - - UPPER PASSAGE - -This passage, which is 28 ft. long, connects the bottom of the _Winding -Stairs_ and the south side of the interior of the _Western Temple_. On -the east side the wall is from 4 ft. 6 in. to 6 ft. high, and 5 ft. -to 10 ft. on the west side. It is 3 ft. 6 in. wide throughout. It is -approached at the northern end between buttresses, the one on the west -side being round, while the one on the eastern side is rounded on the -inner side and angular on the outer side. On the west side are the -remains of a drain emerging from the _Little Enclosure_ and a fragment -of the slate beam which once carried the wall across it is still to -be seen in the hole. This passage, though at the foot of the _Winding -Stairs_, is some 8 ft. higher than the present floor of the _Western -Temple_. - - - EAST PASSAGE - -This passage is 80 ft. long from the foot of the _Winding Stairs_ to -the north side of _South Enclosure C_. At the foot of the _Winding -Stairs_ the passage-way turns east, the north side for 13 ft. being -a large rounded buttress 6 ft. high. On the south side at this point -is the eastern end of the _Covered Passage_ leading up from the floor -of the _Western Temple_, and a few feet further east is the northern -entrance to the _Upper Passage_. - -[Illustration: BOTTOM OF WINDING STAIRS, WESTERN TEMPLE, ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: WEST ENTRANCE TO SOUTH CAVE, ACROPOLIS] - -From the 14 ft. length to the 31 ft. length of the passage going east -are remains—only very ruined—of cement steps descending to a lower -level. On the south side of this passage are _South Enclosure A_, -_South Passage_, and _South Enclosures B and C_. The north side is -formed by high, cliff-like boulders. The _Buttress Passage_ starts -north at the north side of the 51 ft. length going east. At the -entrance to _Buttress Passage_ a tree has lifted up a granite block 6 -ft. from the ground. It is firmly fixed in the bark of the tree. - - - BUTTRESS PASSAGE - -This passage runs north and south for 39 ft. between two gigantic -cliff-boulders on the summit of the hill. This passage connected the -enclosures on the north and south sides of the cliff. The rocks on -either side of the passage at its bottom and south end are 50 ft. high -on the east side, and 35 ft. high on the west side, and at the upper or -north end are from 15 ft. to 20 ft. high. The path ascends throughout -its length, and its upper end is 14 ft. above the lower end. The width -between the rocks varies from 4 ft. to 6 ft., but the top exit of the -path goes between rocks only 3 ft. apart. - -The floor between the two cliffs is artificially made, and near the -summit it has crowned in, and this crowning-in now bars the ascent to -the _Cleft Rock Enclosure_, to which it formed an entrance from the -south. - -The passage has been considerably narrowed by buttresses alternating on -either side, these making the passage a true zigzag. The first buttress -at the south end and on the west side is much reduced in height, being -now but 1 ft. 6 in. This buttress is angular, and protrudes 2 ft. On -the east side is a long rounded buttress, which leaves the passage 2 -ft. wide between it and the first buttress. This second buttress is 4 -ft. high, 7 ft. long, and protrudes 4 ft., the width of the passage -between it and the opposite cliff being 1 ft. 3 in. The third buttress -is 17 ft. from the south end of the passage; it is angular, and -projects from the west side 2 ft., and is now only 2 ft. 6 in. high. -The fourth buttress is angular on the bottom side and rounded on the -top side. This projects 3 ft. 6 in. from the west side, and is 5 ft. -high. Between the third and fourth buttresses the passage is 2 ft. -wide. Above the fourth buttress the floor has crowned in, and on the -upper side of the crowning-in is a wall 5 ft. high built across the -passage. Judging by block débris, this wall, the summit of which is -level with the floor of the _Cleft Rock Enclosure_, was once surmounted -by steps. - - - SOUTH ENCLOSURE A - -This enclosure is 51 ft. long from east to west, and is 25 ft. wide at -its broadest point. Its shape is that of a long, narrow triangle, the -apex resting at its south-east end. Most of the south wall has fallen -over the edge of the precipice. There are two rounded entrances on the -north side from the _East Passage_. The walls remaining are from 5 ft. -to 7 ft. high. There is a drain-hole through the south wall at the -south-east corner. The _South Passage_ forms the eastern side. On the -west side is a narrow recess between two boulders, and this appears to -have been roofed over with slate and granite lintels, but the recess is -now blocked up by wall débris. This enclosure appears to have been once -divided into two enclosures, as a broken wall, 5 ft. long, 3 ft. high, -and 3 ft. 6 in. wide, juts out into the interior from the east side. - - - SOUTH CAVE - -This “cave” hardly deserves the name of cave, but as previous writers -gave it this designation the title is retained in this description. - -The cave is situated immediately under _South Enclosure A_, and it -opens on to the actual brink of the south precipice, being approached -from both west and east sides by a path built along the top slope of -the precipice. It is formed by a large boulder 16 ft. high and 17 ft. -long, and is between this boulder and the top of the precipice, the -floor being the natural rock of the declivity. It recedes but 3 ft. -to 6 ft. under the boulder and is 7 ft. wide. It is 5 ft. high on the -outside and only 1 ft. 6 in. to 2 ft. at its innermost part. It has -been thoroughly cleaned out, but nothing of any antiquarian value was -found. The boulder beetles outwards towards the face of the precipice. - -Immediately in front of this cave and on the south side and at 4 ft. -distance a wall averaging 8 ft. in height runs for 37 ft. towards the -west. The boulder which forms the cave beetles outwards over this wall, -and judging by the block débris, the wall was once continued up to, and -connected with, the rock above. This wall at its western extremity has -a well-built rounded end in a good state of preservation. - -On the north side and starting at 10 ft. from the cave and running -west for 46 ft. is a wall 8 ft. high with a rounded end at its eastern -extremity. It starts from the face of the boulder forming the cave, and -is continued until it reaches the interior of the _Western Temple_. - -These two walls form a passage averaging a width of 4 ft., though at -the end of the south wall it narrows to 2 ft. 6 in. In the passage are -traces of granite cement steps. This passage on entering the _Western -Temple_ is directly end on with the _Parallel Passage_, which is on the -inside of the main south wall and is separated from it only by the gap -in the outer wall, the main wall having at this point fallen down the -precipice and taken with it the side wall of the passage from the cave. -It is almost certain that this passage was but the extension of the -_Parallel Passage_. - -On the eastern side of the cave is a built-up space between the boulder -forming the cave and another boulder further east which beetles -parallel to the precipice for 13 ft. This wall is 10 ft. high and is 6 -ft. across. - -The path to the east passes under this outer and beetling boulder, -and between the outer side of _South Enclosure A_ and the edge of the -precipice, but here it is so much dilapidated by wall débris falling -from above, that the safer approach to the cave is from the _Western -Temple_. - -On the summits of these two large boulders are traces of a substantial -wall once having been carried across them. - - - SOUTH PASSAGE - -This passage is almost opposite the south end of _Buttress Passage_ -and leads from the _East Passage_ to the edge of the south precipice, -dividing _South Enclosures A and B_. It is 38 ft. long, from 1 ft. 6 -in. to 2 ft. wide, and at each extremity has rounded ends on either -side. The wall on the east side averages 3 ft. to 7 ft. in height, the -highest being at the southern end. The wall on the west side averages 7 -ft. to 12 ft. in height. - -The existence of this passage was, until July, 1902, unsuspected, as it -had been filled up and entirely covered over with wall débris, across -which was the visitors’ path, which crossed the débris at 7 ft. above -the present exposed floor. - - - SOUTH ENCLOSURE B - -This enclosure is on the east side of _South Passage_, and overlooks -the south precipice. Its area is 37 ft. from east to west, and 31 ft. -from north to south. The wall on the north side is 16 ft. high, and 4 -ft. 6 in. wide at 5 ft. from the floor, and is the best-built portion -now remaining. It has three rounded entrances, one from _South Passage_ -and two from _East Passage_. Low walls of poor construction subdivide -the enclosure into three compartments, but some portions of these walls -are not believed to be ancient. - - - SOUTH ENCLOSURE C - -This is on the north-east side of _South Enclosure B_, but on a level -of some 6 ft. higher. The area is 41 ft. from east to west, and 19 ft. -from north to south. The eastern wall curves outwards, and is 9 ft. -high. The north side is formed by a large boulder, the west side by a -raised parapet which is the eastern extremity of _East Passage_. There -is one entrance only, and this is in the south-western corner. Here the -south wall is very well built. A wall 3 ft. 6 in. high and 9 ft. long -juts out southwards from the boulder on the north side. - - - CENTRAL PASSAGE - -This passage connects _Cleft Rock Enclosure_ and the _Eastern Temple_ -and forms the most direct communication between the western and -eastern extremities of the _Acropolis_. This passage is practically -the north-east extension of _Pattern Passage_, the two joining end on -at the west entrance to the _Eastern Temple_. Cliffs and huge boulders -form the main portion of its sides. - -Its length is 76 ft., and its width varies from 3 ft. to 4 ft. 6 in. -There is a sharp rise of 6 ft. going west, at about half-way along its -length. - -At the eastern end it lies between two large boulders, the one on the -north side being 12 ft. long and 10 ft. high. This boulder has fallen -from the position it occupied at the time of the ancients, and is come -6 ft. further south, destroying and blocking up the west entrance to -the _Eastern Temple_. The boulder on the south side is 8 ft. long and -14 ft. high, and up against it, and projecting into the passage, was -once a rounded buttress, traces of which now only remain. - -At 22 ft. going west is another large boulder, which forms the south -side of the passage for a further 24 ft. This rock beetles right over -the passage, and the open space under the boulder has been carefully -walled up. At 48 ft. the south side is formed for a further 14 ft. by a -low wall, in which are enclosed two boulders. On this side wall are the -remains of a path leading from the passage to _South Enclosure C_, but -a portion of this has crowned in and disappeared. - -The north side of the passage from its eastern end is formed by the -boulder, 12 ft. long, just described, and for a further 35 ft. by a -step-back wall 8 ft. high, along the summit of which was a path with -steps leading into the _Eastern Temple_, but now blocked up by large -scales of granite which have fallen from the face of the cliff above. - -The western extremity of this passage is formed by two boulders, one -on either side, the one on the south side leaning up against the one -on the north side, thus forming a natural arch 14 ft. long and 10 ft. -high, the path descending about 4 ft. in passing through the archway, -and rising sharply again where it emerges on the opposite end of the -archway into _Cleft Rock Enclosure_, and runs for 27 ft. further west -into the enclosure, where it ends on the south side in a rounded wall -5 ft. high. Large rocks form the north side. In the archway and on the -south side under the boulder is a rock hole 5 ft. broad, 4 ft. deep, -extending under the base of the boulder for 6 ft. - -In the passage are traces of steps, but the passage has been greatly -damaged by falls of large slabs from the cliffs. - - - - - CHAPTER XVII - - THE ACROPOLIS RUINS - (_Continued_) - - Eastern Temple—Ancient Balcony—Balcony Enclosure—Balcony - Cave—Gold Furnace Enclosure—Upper Gold Furnace - Enclosure—Pattern Passage—Recess Enclosure—North Plateau—North - Parapet. - - - THE EASTERN TEMPLE - -This temple is situated at the most easterly part of Zimbabwe Hill -Ruins, on the south side of the line of high cliffs and gigantic -boulders which extend from the east to the west along the summit of the -hill. The centre of the present surface of the interior of this temple -is 222 ft. above the valley. - -The main wall is built on a wide curve towards the east extending 98 -ft. from the south face of the cliff on the north side round to the -south side, thus disposing the area in a quarter section of a circle -with the apex of the section at the north-north-west of the interior. - -A cliff rising perpendicularly for 70 ft. from the floor of the temple -forms the north side of the area, and the west side is formed by -colossal boulders some 30 ft. to 50 ft. in height. The heights and the -massiveness of the cliff and boulders lend a peculiar awe-inspiring -appearance to this temple. These granite rocks, tapestried by Nature -in all possible colours and shades of lichen, enclose two sides of -the interior in the form of an amphitheatre, with the highest portion -of the temple floor at the north end, the present surface gradually -sloping down in a fall of 12 ft. towards the curved main and outer -wall to its east and south-eastern points. On the highest part of this -slope are two well-built retaining walls forming terraces behind them. -These are described later. - -This temple is considerably better built than is the _Western Temple_ -on this hill. The blocks in the walls are more carefully selected and -fit together more perfectly, are of a better class of granite, and the -courses are truer, while it would appear from the extent of purely -artistic detail and finish introduced by the original builders that far -greater skill was bestowed upon its construction than on that of the -_Western Temple_. - -[Illustration: - -Section of EASTERN TEMPLE Acropolis, Zimbabwe.] - -Both temples are built strictly upon the lines of the First Period of -Zimbabwe architecture, all of the features of the Second Period being -altogether absent. Certainly some of the cement work of the higher -floors appears to be ancient, but not of the period of the original -builders, and it is possible that the Second Period ancients occupied -the buildings, and finding them in such excellent condition, had no -need to make repairs or extensions to the walls as they did in so many -scores of First Period ruins throughout the country. The floors of the -original builders of this temple have been opened out by a trench and -exposed at a minimum depth of 4 ft. below the latest floor. - -Bent and other writers have stated that this temple is orientated to -the rising of the sun, which can be seen on a level and fairly distant -horizon. The temple obviously affords a splendid natural means for -observing the meridian. - -On midwinter day (1902), in the Southern Hemisphere, the sun rose -facing the eastern end of the main wall, and shone on the line of -_Dentelle Pattern_, and also for an hour afterwards shone on the -inside of the south-western end of the wall, and also on that of the -floor. At the end of that time, and until 10.30 a.m., the sun did not -shine on the temple, but only on the inside face of the summit of the -south-west end of the curved main wall, the sun being hidden by the -70-ft. cliff on the north side of the interior. At 11 a.m. it shone -over the cliff on to the south-western side of the interior. Half an -hour before midday the sun shone on the inside of the southern wall and -on the south floor from over the cliff, and also in a single narrow -bar across the floor of the building through the north entrance to the -temple, which is formed by a long and narrow passage between the high -cliffs and some gigantic boulders. The sun shone through this narrow -opening till about half an hour after midday, when the sun had passed -the face of this narrow entrance, and only shone on the south-west and -north-west portions of the interior from over the _Ancient Balcony_, -which is much lower than the cliff, till a little after one o’clock, -the sun then ceasing to shine on the interior for the rest of the day. -At the spot where the line from the point of sunrise at the summer -solstice cuts the midday beam of light which comes through the cliff -entrance on the north, is the site of the ancient altar as determined -by Bent, the site being true south of the north passage. It was at -this spot that Bent found the pottery and soapstone solar discs, the -decorated and plain phalli, the soapstone birds, carved beams, and -decorated bowls resembling Phœnician ware. The writer’s examination -of this spot was rewarded by “finds” of carved soapstone in great -quantities. - -[Illustration: Plan of EASTERN TEMPLE Acropolis, Zimbabwe ] - -So obviously noticeable is the beam of light at midday that as the sun -quickly passed the end of the long and narrow rock passage the natives -working for the writer fixed their noon “_Tjiya!_” (“Cease work!”) by -it, and this they did on their own initiative. - -Another feature may be noticed. A small circle of sunlight, about 2 ft. -diameter, crosses the floor of the temple in a course equal to about a -fifth part of the radius of a circle from the entrance to the _Balcony -Enclosure_ across the floor where Bent fixes the site of the ancient -altar and passes over the eastern wall. This must have been observed by -the ancients, for it is caused by a small opening between two boulders -which they have utilised in “forming” the _Ancient Balcony_. At 3 p.m. -this circle of light in the sunless interior, on the same day, rested -on the spot at which, according to Bent, the ancient altar stood. - -On Midsummer Day, 1903, the whole temple area was flooded with sunlight -at noontide. - -These particulars are given merely as matters of interest to the -general reader, and scientists are referred to _The Ruined Cities of -Mashonaland_, by Bent, for his calculations as to the orientation of -this temple. Bent has given his opinion, based upon survey, that this -temple was used for observing the summer solstice. - -Two points, however, which may bear upon the orientation of this -building and its use in the observation of sunrise and meridian may be -noticed. - -(_a_) No other temple which has been surveyed by scientists for the -purpose of ascertaining its orientation, whether at Zimbabwe or -elsewhere in Rhodesia, was so plentifully adorned with monoliths of -carved slate or soapstone as was this temple, no less than thirty -fallen monoliths, and the fractured portions of many others, having -been found at the bases of the walls both inside and outside, while -the débris heaps, which have only been very partially searched, must -yet contain other specimens. No other temple, so far discovered, had -such a profusion of geometrically carved soapstone beams as were -unearthed by Bent and by other explorers before him. This would appear -to still further testify to the importance the ancients attached to the -decoration of this temple, whether used for observing the seasons of -the year and astronomical occurrences or not. - -(_b_) The position of the _Dentelle Pattern_ in two courses on the -eastern face of the summit of the main wall is fixed on exactly the -same plan as is shown in so many other ruins of temple buildings in -Rhodesia (and the discovery of the ancient emblems of faith have so -far only been made in buildings so decorated, on identical positions, -with one of the three oldest patterns, namely, Dentelle, Chevron, or -Herring-bone), and as this is so unmistakably seen in the case of -numerous other ruins of similar buildings, the position of the pattern -in this instance can hardly be a mere coincidence. - -The _Dentelle Pattern_, which forms a distinguishing feature at the -Zimbabwe ruins both on the hill and in the valley, and which is only -found in First Period buildings, is, in this instance, believed to -have originally extended some 30 ft. further towards the south-west, -as a trace of it still remains on the highest remaining portion of -the 39 ft. length of the main wall. The pattern throughout the 24 ft. -length of main wall is somewhat damaged at several points, and the rows -of stones which in all instances elsewhere covered this pattern have -almost disappeared. - -The interior measurements of this temple are as follows: 59 ft. 6 in. -from north to south, the northern point for measurement being the -large roughly built step at the south end of the _North Passage_; -66 ft. from south-east to north-west, the north-west point for -measurement being the step at the bottom of the stairs leading from -the temple to _Balcony Enclosure_; and 50 ft. from west-south-west to -north-north-east. - -The main wall is 98 ft. long, measuring along its inside face, and -starts on the eastern side from the south face of the cliff for 10 ft. -to the rounded entrance to the _Gold Furnace Enclosure_. This 10 ft. -length of wall is 8 ft. higher than the interior floor at the cliff -end, and is 5 ft. high at the entrance. The entrance is 3 ft. wide at -the present top and 2 ft. on its floor. From the rounded entrance -the wall runs facing east-south-east for 24 ft. This section of the -main wall stands 8 ft. above the present level of the interior, but 12 -ft. 6 in. from an ancient floor exposed in a trench sunk some 4 ft. 6 -in. into the present floor. At the south end of this length there is -a gap in the wall of 22 ft., the wall which remains rising only 6 in. -above the present surface of the lowest part of the temple. The wall -starts again at the south end of the gap, and runs for 39 ft. towards -the south-south-west. The highest portion of this length is 11 ft. 3 -in. above the ancient floor as exposed in the trench cut along the -interior face of the main wall, the south-western end of the wall being -only 4 ft. higher than the _Western Entrance_, which has been raised at -a later period 5 ft. 6 in. above the original floor of the entrance. - -[Illustration: EXTERIOR OF MAIN EAST WALL, SHEWING DENTELLE PATTERN, -EASTERN TEMPLE, ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: SUNKEN PASSAGE, LOOKING EAST, EASTERN TEMPLE, ACROPOLIS] - -The widths of the main wall are as follows:— - -The 10 ft. length is 7 ft. wide at the present floor, but was probably -wider, as its eastern face has fallen out into the _Gold Furnace -Enclosure_, which is immediately below. The angle between the east -outside face and the cliff was filled in by a rounded buttress, which -has also collapsed and fallen into the enclosure below. - -The 24 ft. length is 4 ft. 7 in. wide on the present summit. At 12 ft. -south of the _Eastern Entrance_, an inner or banquette wall runs along -the inside of the main wall, and stands out 2 ft. at its north end, 7 -ft. at south end, till it narrows into and becomes part of the main -wall at the _Western Entrance_. - -The 22 ft. length is 5 ft. wide at the bottom of the gap, with a -further width of 3 ft. 6 in., which includes that of the banquette wall. - -The 39 ft. length of main wall is 5 ft. wide on the summit, and this -with the width of the banquette wall, which at this point is 5 ft. 6 -in. wide, makes a total width of 10 ft. 6 in. - -The heights of the main wall from the outer bases are as follows:— - -The 10 ft. length is 24 ft. above its base, and this, with the 24 -ft. length of main wall, forms the western side of the _Gold Furnace -Enclosure_. - -The 24 ft. length is 25 ft. high, and is divided into two depths, one -below the other, 11 ft. and 14 ft., the 11 ft. being the wall and the -14 ft. being a long buttress which starts at 9 ft. from the south side -of the 22 ft. gap and runs to the cliff. The main wall, however, is -continued down to the base of the buttress which is built up against -it. This buttress forms a terraced passage, and was probably the way -the ancients passed from the _Eastern Temple_ to the _Gold Furnace -Enclosure_ below by means of a natural bridge formed by a long and -narrow boulder, the west end of which is built into the buttress, down -the north side of which is a narrow descent with a few block steps -still remaining. - -The 39 ft. length is 22 ft. higher than the débris at its outer base, -it is 17 ft. higher than the débris at the centre of the main wall, -and 11 ft. at the steps which lead up from _Pattern Passage_ to the -_Western Entrance_ of the _Eastern Temple_. - -On the top of the south banquette wall were most probably steps leading -up to within 2 ft. or 3 ft. of the summit of the wall as if for a -look-out. A rounded buttress stands out 2 ft. 6 in. from the main wall, -and between it and the inner edge of the banquette wall are some blocks -which, though displaced, have fallen in such a way as to provide very -strong grounds for this conjecture. - -The _Eastern Entrance_ has a pair of buttresses on a semi-circular -platform projecting 7 ft. into the temple area, the faces of the -buttresses being rounded and flush with the outside edge of this -platform. The buttress on the north-east side is 3 ft., and judging by -débris, it was once at least 7 ft. high. The opposite buttress is now -only 1 ft. 6 in. high. (For measurements of this entrance, see _Main -Wall_.) - -Between the south buttress and the banquette wall which runs southwards -along the inside of the wall is another raised platform or “blind -steps,” but very ruined and projecting now only 2 ft. from the main -wall. Among the loose stones on the top of this small platform, which -is 6 ft. long, Bent found one of the soapstone birds which has a -_cystos_, with sections of a carved soapstone beam, all of which are -now in the museum at Capetown. - -At the north side of this entrance is a wall 15 ft. long reaching -from the entrance to an angular point in the north cliff. This space -so enclosed was built up inside in the form of steps, or blind steps, -for they led nowhere, resembling the blind steps in _Nos. 7, 9, and 12 -Enclosures_, and in the _Sacred Enclosure_ (_west_) in the _Elliptical -Temple_ in the valley. The face of a small buttress protrudes some 18 -in. from the face of this wall at about midway. Possibly this may have -been the lowest step of the blind steps built up in this corner. In -1888 this raised platform had on its summit a soapstone bird and beams. -In 1903 two phalli and sections of four soapstone beams were found -here, also small gold beads on and near this platform. - -The _North Entrance_ is a narrow and deep rock passage 23 ft. long. -The east side is formed by the north-west end of the north cliff, and -is 45 ft. higher than the floor of the passage, but it beetles over -the passage for 6 ft. beyond its north-western side, and so forms, -with the immense boulders on the north-west side, an almost complete -archway right over the passage. The passage is from 2 ft. to 7 ft. 10 -in. wide, but with rounded buttresses, the foundations and débris of -which still remain, and also with a boulder that almost blocks the -passage; the width of the passage throughout its whole length could not -have been more than 2 ft. before the buttresses had become dilapidated. -The passage emerges at its north end on the _North Plateau_ (described -later). - -The _West Entrance_ is formed by the rounded end of the western -extremity of the main wall and a large boulder between which it passes. -On its present floor it is only 1 ft. 10 in. wide, the wall side having -some six courses of blocks exposed. The boulder on the north side has -moved some 2 ft. into the entrance since the wall was built, and so -partially closed it up, for originally the floor of the entrance was -fully 5 ft. lower, and passed into the temple without steps. This was -discovered to be the case when the upper portion of _Pattern Passage_ -was cleared out (July, 1902), when steps were made over the entrance -débris to enable visitors to pass from _Pattern Passage_ into the -temple. - -The remains of another raised platform—but this one of granite -cement—are on the west side of the interior immediately on the -left-hand side on entering the temple at the west entrance. This -platform is now ruined owing to its having been trodden on by oxen when -this temple was used as a cattle kraal. In 1888 three large soapstone -birds on tall beams stood on this platform, but in 1890 were removed by -Bent, and are now in the museum at Capetown. The holes in the cement -made by Bent on digging out the bases of the beams can still be seen. - -From 6 ft. north of this last-mentioned platform is some semi-circular -clay-work rising in three tiers. Possibly these were steps leading up -to the highest terraced level of the interior, but it may be doubted -whether they had any claim to antiquity. - -_Sunken Passage._—This passage runs from south-west to north-east under -the present floor of the Eastern Temple for 23 ft., starting from -inside the banquette wall at 8 ft. east of the west entrance. Its depth -is 9 ft. below the surface of interior of temple, but its side walls -are only 7 ft. high. It is 4 ft. wide at the south end and 6 ft. wide -at the north. At north-east end is a rounded buttress 5 ft. high. No -approach or steps down into the passage have so far been discovered. -The passage terminates at the large buttress (already mentioned), the -summit of which is 4 ft. below the surface, is situated within 3 ft. -and immediately in front of Bent’s “altar.” The east side wall of the -passage is better built than the west side. - -_Bent’s “altar.”_—This “altar” was stated by Bent to be 10 ft. nearer -to the rising sun at the solstice than the centre of the arc of the -curved, massive, and decorated main wall. Surveyors having located -this spot, examinations were made in 1903, with the result that some -twenty-five phalli, also some sections of phalli, and of carved -portions of soapstone beams and bowls, were found within 3 ft. of this -spot on two sides, and all within a few minutes of each other. This is -by far the largest “find” of phalli ever made at Zimbabwe. At this spot -Bent also made his largest “find” of phalli, solar discs, and other -relics. The large soapstone birds were found 3 ft. or 4 ft. further -south-west of the “altar.” Messrs. Posselt, who resided and farmed at -Zimbabwe in 1888 and before the Occupation, wished to remove these -birds, but the previous Mogabe (Chipfuno) refused his consent. - -_Internal walls._—On the north side of the interior of this temple is -a wall acting as a retaining wall, with filled-in ground behind it -forming a terrace. This upper terrace is at the highest point of the -floor of the temple, and is 16 ft. long, 4 ft. high, and 2 ft. 6 in. on -the summit. Judging by the amount of débris, this terrace had in all -probability a parapet wall along its summit. The wall runs from N. 25° -E. to S. 20° W., and starts from the south side of a huge boulder at 16 -ft. north-west of the _North Entrance_. - -On the south-west side and at the north-west end of the interior of the -temple, and corresponding with the first terraced wall just described, -is another terrace wall 12 ft. long and 3 ft. high, running eastwards -from the south side of the cliff which forms the north-west side of -the temple and the south-west side of the passage which runs from the -_Cleft Rock Enclosure_ to this temple. The two corresponding terraces -form a junction with an abutment wall projecting south-east for 2 ft. 6 -in. This projection is 2 ft. high and 5 ft. 6 in. wide. - -Immediately in front of this projection on the south-east side and -sloping down for some distance towards the lower part of the temple is -some cement work, which, though old, does not appear to be ancient, for -it contains splinters of time-worn monoliths which show signs of having -once stood upon one of the walls. The purpose of this cement projection -is not clearly seen, for tree roots have easily passed through such -rough cement and have torn it out of all shape, besides which it has -become decomposed and soft. - -Between the angle formed by this last-described terraced wall and the -projection just mentioned is a very rudely cemented floor also much -decomposed. The few steps leading up from the flooring at this point -towards the path to the _Cleft Rock Enclosure_ are quite modern, having -been built by the writer to enable visitors to pass over the débris of -a large rounded buttress which once stood against the north-west side -of the nearest boulder. From the top of this débris pile steps of an -ancient character, and more or less defined, continue up the slope at -the foot of the south side of the cliff where runs a path towards the -_Cleft Rock Enclosure_. - -A second and lower terrace is 4 ft. long and 4 ft. high, and is carried -on a red cement foundation 18 in. thick. It terminates abruptly on the -south-west extremity in a broken end. This wall juts out from the south -side of the north cliff at 15 ft. east of the _North Entrance_, and -runs south-west. Immediately behind this wall is a second wall running -parallel with it, the face of the second or back wall actually touching -the back of the front wall. This back wall runs south-west for 5 ft. -beyond the end of the front wall, where it also terminates in a broken -end. It is 3 ft. high, but in all probability it was once much higher. - -The _Balcony Enclosure_, which is at the north-west end of the temple -and is described later, provided another entrance to this temple, the -_Balcony Enclosure_ being approached from the west and north sides -respectively by the passage through the _Balcony Cave_ and the ascent -from _Rock Holes Path_. - -The _Ancient Balcony_ is at the north-west end of the temple, the whole -interior of which it overlooks, and appears to have acted for this -temple in the same manner and for the same purposes as _The Platform_ -of the _Western Temple_ and _The Platform_ in the _Elliptical Temple_ -in the valley. This _Ancient Balcony_ is described later. - -The interior of this temple has been used by the past and present -Makalanga as a cattle kraal, and very possibly the cattle have trodden -any cement work out of shape. It was found to be covered with a thick -stratum of cattle manure, which again was covered by wall débris, and -still further by a foot depth of rich vegetable mould thickly matted -with roots of creepers, shrubs, and trees. - - - THE ANCIENT BALCONY - -At the north-west end of the _Eastern Temple_, and at the highest point -of the interior and immediately behind the higher of the terraced walls -before described, fourteen steps, eight of granite cement and six of -blocks, lead for 26 ft. in a north-westerly direction up a passage-way -formed on the south side by a cliff, and on the north side by two large -boulders. Each step is 5 in. high and extends back 18 in. The ascending -passage is 7 ft. wide at its lowest part, and narrows to a creep-hole -between the cliff and the upper of the two large boulders to just the -size that will permit of a man passing through by stooping. - -Over this passage are two colossal boulders, held up in a horizontal -position by the cliff, the level top of the southernmost being 26 ft. -above the bottom of the steps, which are exactly underneath. The steps -are laid on cement, and probably are of a late period, at any rate -there is evidence that they have been very considerably repaired. - -Immediately facing the top of the steps, and 4 ft. above the -creep-hole, is a rounded buttress projecting from the side of the -cliff, and measuring 15 ft. in circumference. The highest part faces -east, and is still 9 ft. 6 in. in height, while the north-west side is -considerably dilapidated. - -This passage is the approach to the _Ancient Balcony_ and _Balcony -Enclosure_. Following up the passage, and turning to the right at the -top, one ascends a bank with traces of steps between the boulder which -forms the creep-hole, and a wall on the north, and arrives on the -_Balcony_. - -The _Balcony_ is formed by the level and parallel tops of the -horizontal boulders, and is 39 ft. long, and at its widest part 12 ft. -10 in. On the south-east side is a parapet wall from 1 to 3 ft. present -reduced height, and 2 ft. 6 in. wide. - -The _Balcony_ is 248 ft. above the valley, and commands a most -extensive view to the south-east, including the _Elliptical Temple_ in -the valley, and the _Schlichter Gorge_, which extends into a sea of -romantically shaped summits of kopjes and blue distances. The _Balcony_ -commands a complete view of the whole of the interior of the _Eastern -Temple_. - - - BALCONY ENCLOSURE - -The length of this enclosure from north to south is 51 ft., and the -average width from 15 ft. to 20 ft., the whole of the sides being -formed by cliff and boulders, except on the north side, where a space -between two large boulders has been built up by the ancients. This wall -is 9 ft. long and 11 ft. high. - -The wall extending from the north-east corner of the _Balcony_, and -on the north side, except for one short length, is not ancient. Local -Makalanga state their people of some two or three generations back -re-erected the wall on the old foundation. This is obviously the fact. -But an entrance from the _North Plateau_ was once at this point, and -led down steps on the outside, going west between two large boulders -zigzag downwards to the _Rock Holes Path_. - - - BALCONY CAVE - -At the west end of this enclosure is a steep descent of 36 ft. between -two boulders into _Balcony Cave_ formed by a cliff, the east face of -which beetles over the descent. The cave is 19 ft. wide at the bottom -and is very much filled in with wall débris, silted soil, and large -scales of granite off the face of the overhanging rock. This cave -formed an entrance into the _Balcony Enclosure_ from the _Rock Holes -Path_, which runs along the north-west face of the cliff, only on a -very much lower level. A wall 18 ft. high starts from the bottom of the -cave and is built across it on the north side, running west to east. -This wall is partly rounded on the upper portion. At 7 ft. from the -ground the lower part of this wall has collapsed and blocked up the -exit. Another wall 8 ft. long and 6 ft. high and in two rising tiers -crosses from side to side at a higher level. Two almost perfectly -shaped monoliths, very much weather-worn, were found among the débris -in this cave. - - - GOLD FURNACE ENCLOSURE - -This enclosure is 12 ft. lower than the _Eastern Temple_, the outer -face of the eastern main wall for 15 ft. forming its west side. On all -other sides it is surrounded by cliff and boulders, a continuation of -the north cliff of the _Eastern Temple_ forming its north side. The -area is 46 ft. from west to east, and 32 ft. from north to south. At -the south-west corner is a chasm 14 ft. long, 2 ft. to 5 ft. wide, -and 11 ft. high running between the front base of the temple wall -and the west end of the huge boulder, 44 ft. long, which forms the -southern side of the enclosure. The chasm leads out of the enclosure -to the south side of the outer wall of the temple. It was once much -larger, but owing to silting in of soil and débris, and the falling -of decomposed slabs of granite from its roof, it has become narrowed -and shallowed. Along the buttress which forms the lower part of the -east front of the temple wall was a path from the east entrance of -the temple to the top of the chasm, which was further arched with -granite slabs making a wider bridge, and this led to the floor of -this enclosure by means of steps which ran down the north face of the -boulder on the south-west side of the enclosure. - -It was in this enclosure that Bent believed he had discovered ancient -gold furnaces. At the south-east corner is an open space 9 ft. wide, -which once had a rounded buttress on either side. Beyond this point the -ground falls rapidly to the south towards the edge of the precipice. -Under the cliff are holes hardly deep enough to be termed caves, and -these have been reduced in size by the silting in of soil. - - - UPPER GOLD FURNACE ENCLOSURE - -This is situated at the north-east corner of the _Gold Furnace -Enclosure_, but on a level of 4 ft. higher. Separating the two -enclosures is a well-built wall 10 ft. long with a rounded entrance in -the centre. - -The greatest width of this enclosure is 9 ft. at the entrance, and its -length is 44 ft., but it is very narrow except for about 12 ft. in the -middle of the length. The south end runs between and under boulders, -while the north end includes a cave under the continuation of the cliff -which forms the north sides of the _Eastern Temple_ and the _Gold -Furnace Enclosure_. This cave has also been reduced in size by the -filling in of débris and soil. - - - PATTERN PASSAGE - -This passage runs for 51 ft. along the outside of the south and -south-west portion of the curved main wall of the _Eastern Temple_. -In the south-west portion the passage is 2 ft. wide, and formerly its -floor throughout this section was level with that of the present floor -of _Recess Enclosure_, but a large boulder at the west entrance to the -_Eastern Temple_ having slipped and disturbed the entrance walls, -steps have recently been erected to enable visitors to climb over the -débris heap. - -[Illustration: EAST ENTRANCE TO PATTERN PASSAGE, ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: PATTERN PASSAGE, LOOKING EAST, ACROPOLIS] - -On the west side of the northern length of the passage the wall is 11 -ft. high, the upper portion receding from the passage at 8 ft. above -the level of the floor at the foot of the newly-erected steps, and -in the recess so formed is what appears to be a decorative pattern -of original form made of rows of blocks, each row at the back of the -other, and rising backwards in miniature steps or shelves. But these -rows are not believed to have been intended or used as steps, as the -lines of blocks on either side round off to come flush with the face -of the wall and become part of the wall at each end, and are continued -as ordinary courses in the faces of the wall. The exact correctness -of these step-like rows and curves of blocks is remarkable. For the -present, and until the purpose of these steps can be ascertained, this -feature is called _Step Pattern_. It has been suggested that these -steps must have formed a post for a guard to protect the _Western -Entrance_ to the temple. - -The wall opposite the approach to _Pattern Passage_ from _Recess -Enclosure_ is 8 ft. high, and rises to 17 ft., as the floor of the -southern section of the passage descends somewhat sharply. The southern -section terminates at the rounded end of the east wall of _Recess -Enclosure_, which here is rather a fine piece of dry masonry. Formerly -this section had steps let into the wall on either side, fragments of -such stones still projecting from the walls, the foundations of which -have been laid bare, and at one point undermined. This vandalism is not -the work of archæologists, but of unauthorised prospectors for gold -relics, who have torn up the whole length of stairs and pavement, not -only in this passage, but in every other passage on the hill which was -not protected by being filled in with wall débris. - - - RECESS ENCLOSURE[61] - -This is an almost complete enclosure on the south side of the _Eastern -Temple_, and separated from it by a deep and narrow passage, now known -as _Pattern Passage_. Formerly a passage-way ran along the west side of -the enclosure from north to south. The area of this enclosure is—south -side, 17 ft. 6 in., north side 18 ft., west side 25 ft., and east side -20 ft. The surface shows signs of the enclosure having been filled in -above its original floor by some later occupiers. The south wall has -collapsed except for about 4 ft. at its west end, and this section is 8 -ft. high, but the foundations of the rest of this wall are practically -intact. The north wall is considerably broken, its highest point being -now only 5 ft. above the present floor. The west wall, which is intact, -is formed by the outer wall of a building erected at a much higher -level, called _South Enclosure C_. This wall is 22 ft. high, and is in -two parts—the upper part being rounded outwards at the extremities, and -the centre rounded inwards. This wall is exceedingly well built, and -is one of the finest pieces of masonry to be seen on the _Acropolis_, -and shows very great architectural skill on the part of the ancient -builders. - -The south wall is now only 8 ft. to 9 ft., and on the inside face -has a row of five vertical recesses built in the wall and flush with -its face. These are altogether unlike anything yet discovered in any -ancient ruins,[62] except, perhaps, at _No. 1 Ruin_ at _Khami_. The -widths of the faces of the wall between the recesses from north to -south are 2 ft. 4 in., 1 ft. 9 in., 1 ft. 10 in., 1 ft. 7 in., and 1 -ft. 8 in., and these are separated from each other by perpendicular -crevices, each 5 in. wide. Most probably the recesses were once -considerably higher. What practical purpose they could have served is -at present impossible to state, but it has always been held that they -probably once contained wooden beams. - -[Illustration: WEST WALL, RECESS ENCLOSURE, ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: THE RECESSES, RECESS ENCLOSURE, ACROPOLIS] - -The north-west entrance has rounded walls, and from the east side -of this entrance are the remains of a passage wall running south. -This wall is 6 ft. long, 2 ft. 6 in. high, and 2 ft. 6 in. wide; the -foundations of this wall run almost as far as the south wall of the -enclosure. - -All the walls of this enclosure are well built. - -In the north-east corner is an excavated hole, showing a wall running -parallel to the east wall at a depth lower than the present floor of -the enclosure. The north end of the east wall is beautifully rounded -and tapers from its base to present summit, its face forming the south -side of the east end of _Pattern Passage_. - - - NORTH PLATEAU - -This plateau is situated to the north of the _Eastern Temple_ and at -the north of the cliffs, which form its north-east and north sides. -Its shape is that of a quarter of a circle—the east side being formed -by cliffs running towards the north-east, and the south side by huge -boulders running out towards the north-west, the apex being at the -north end of the _North Passage_ of the _Eastern Temple_. The area from -north to south is 67 ft., and from east to west 53 ft., the outer and -open side being supported by a terrace wall extending along the front -for 43 ft. This terraced wall is well built for this length. It has -a drop from the outer surface edge of this plateau of 11 ft. Traces -of a continuation of this wall across the gorge on the north side on -to the opposite shoulder of the kopje can be seen; but the Makalanga -state that the superstructure built upon these traces was made by their -people long ago, and, indeed, this is very obvious. A Makalanga-built -wall juts out from the north-east side a few feet towards the -_Visitors’ Path_ to this plateau. The plateau is covered with the clay -foundations of the circular huts of the Makalanga, who up to four years -ago had their kraal on the northern summit of the hill. - - - NORTH PARAPET - -This structure is at the outer and northern base of the large curved -main wall of the _Western Temple_, on which are the small towers and -monoliths, where it curves towards the north-east and runs parallel -with it for 44 ft. In this parapet is a rising passage with steps -leading from the _North-West Ancient Ascent_ up to the main wall, where -it once passed through it and curved into _Platform Enclosure_ where it -can still be walked along. The point where this passage went through -the main wall has been blocked up by the Makalanga, and the wall is -so very dilapidated that it would be altogether unsafe to clear the -entrance of the obstructing blocks. - -The parapet was evidently once more extended towards the east, but the -fall of débris from the broken end of the main wall has carried the -parapet below away. - -The western extremity of this parapet is formed by a wall 11 ft. long -projecting at right angles from the foot of the main wall. This wall -is 8 ft. high and is 4 ft. wide on its present reduced summit. From -opposite the north end of this wall commences the west side wall of the -ancient ascent described later. - -Immediately on the east side of the wall forming the western extremity -of the parapet there are steps rising 3 ft. 6 in. facing north and -leading up to the sunken passage on the parapet, and above these steps -the passage turns east at right angles along the centre of the parapet. - -The width of the parapet is 11 ft., and this width is divided as -follows: width of passage 3 ft., of outer parapet wall 4 ft., and of -inner wall 3 ft. 6 in. The passage rises 8 ft. between where it enters -the _North Parapet_ and where it rounds off towards the south-east -through the main wall. The outer and inner walls are 3 ft. to 4 ft. -above the passage floor, but the outer wall was probably once very much -higher. There are traces of steps in the passage. - -The height of the north face of the _North Parapet_ from above the -filled-in floor on the outside is from 9 ft. to 11 ft. This floor -contains the remains of a rather old Makalanga hut. - -A parapet wall of a similar character runs from the western end of -_North Parapet_ along the outer base of the main wall, and this is -described later under the title of _Western Parapet_. - - - - - CHAPTER XVIII - - THE ACROPOLIS RUINS - (_Continued_) - - North-West Ancient Ascent—Water Gate Ruins—Terraced Enclosures - on North-West Face of Zimbabwe Hill—South Terrace—Ruins on - South Face of Zimbabwe Hill—Outspan Ruins. - - - NORTH-WEST ANCIENT ASCENT - -Unfortunately in describing this ascent it is necessary to commence at -the summit and work downwards instead of upwards. The amount of débris -which covered its lower lengths precluded the tracing of the ascent -from below, and further it is only the higher lengths which have been -cleared out, though now the lower parts can be easily followed. - -The ascent begins at the _Water Gate_ at the north-west base of the -hill, and terminates at _The Platform_ which overlooks the _Eastern -Temple_ on the Acropolis. Its total length is a little more than 500 ft. - -Walking across the north-west face of the hill it would have been -impossible to discover this ascent owing to the confusing number of -lines of foundations and outcrops of walls running in all directions -over the side of the hill, and the intermediate ground being so much -covered with blocks. The idea that this ascent existed along its -present lines was suggested by viewing the face of the hill from -Mogabe’s kraal, which is on the opposite side of the north-west valley. -From this point the step-like form of the side of the hill can be seen -as a whole, and it appears obvious that artificial means had been -employed in making the lines of projection on the side of the hill. -These were subsequently examined, with the result that sections of a -passage-way downwards were found in one chain extending from the summit -to the base of the hill, though there were some long gaps between the -sections, while the sections themselves were filled in up to where the -side walls out-cropped for a few inches. - -The sections of this ancient ascent, commencing at the summit, are as -follows:— - -(_a_) Passage through _Platform Enclosure_ 72 ft. long (see _Platform -Enclosure_). - -(_b_) Passage through main wall 16 ft. long (do.). - -(_c_) Passage along _Northern Parapet_ 28 ft. long (see _Northern -Parapet_). - -(_d_) Section of ascent between _Northern Parapet_ and the old -visitors’ path which the ascent crosses 233 ft. long. - -(_e_) Section between Visitors’ Path and the _Water Gate_, which is at -the lowest point of the ascent, over 600 ft. long. - -(_f_) _Water Gate_ (see _Water Gate_). - -The first three sections have already been described. - -_Section (d)._—This extends from the _Northern Parapet_ to the old -visitors’ path. The passage on leaving the parapet turns north-west -for 41 ft. The walls on either side are from 3 ft. to 5 ft. high, but -these heights are increased on either side by a further 2 ft. or 3 ft., -owing to the depth of soil and block débris lying along the summits of -the side walls, the passage for this length being found buried for this -depth below the surface of the face of the hill. This length of passage -is 2 ft. to 3 ft. in width. At 31 ft. from the upper end of this length -and on the east side is a rounded entrance leading into an enclosure -which is completely buried under débris and silted soil. - -At the bottom end of this length of 41 ft. the passage turns due east -for 32 ft., the corner wall being rounded. At this corner a passage -from the west side enters the ascent, but this passage is at present -buried in débris. The width of the ascent here averages 4 ft. to 5 ft. -6 in., but it is narrowed at one point to 2 ft. 6 in. by a rounded -buttress projecting from the north side into the ascent. The heights -of the walls for this length are: south side 6 ft. to 8 ft., with -several feet depth of débris on its summit; north side 4 ft. to 8 ft. -The ascent in this length has a fall of 6 ft. At the bottom of this -length on the south side, and fronting up the ascent, is a rounded -buttress in form of a quarter section of a circle, and this is 11 ft. -round its base. It has a further buttress on its west side and traces -of another on its east side, and between these two buttresses are the -remains of steps, but a tree growing out of the steps has caused their -dilapidation. - -From this buttress the passage turns due north for 75 ft.; its eastern -side from 28 ft. to 56 ft. of this length had fallen into the passage, -but the rest of that side of the passage is still practically intact. -Along this length the passage is deeply sunk into the face of the hill. -The widths average from 2 ft. 10 in. to 6 ft. The side walls are of -the following heights above the passage floor: east side, 7 ft. to -10 ft.; west side, 5 ft. to 10 ft. On either side of this length are -enclosures which are completely filled in with débris and buried, but -the entrances to these can be seen. This length of passage was found -(October, 1902) to be completely buried, even for some feet above the -10 ft. side walls, and the floors of Makalanga huts were built across -them and the passage. - -At the 63 ft. point in this length are two entrances, one on either -side of the passage. The one on the east side is rounded and is 6 ft. -high, and steps are formed by the curving inwards of the courses of the -wall. This leads into an enclosure until recently filled in and buried, -and this enclosure is mentioned in the description of the _North-West -Face of Zimbabwe Hill_, where it is described as being typical of so -many other enclosures on this side of the hill. On the opposite side of -the passage the entrance there is angular on one side and rounded on -the other. Its side walls are 6 ft. high. This entrance is blocked up -in the same manner as was the ascent. This leads into another buried -enclosure, a portion of which has been cleared out and examined. The -passage along the 75 ft. length has a fall of 11 ft. - -[Illustration: SUNKEN PASSAGE, SECTION OF NORTH-WEST ASCENT, ACROPOLIS] - -[Illustration: HERRING-BONE PATTERN, WATER GATE RUINS, ZIMBABWE] - -At the bottom end of this length and going north is an enclosed area -triangular in shape 47 ft. long, and with the apex resting in the lower -end, where the passage becomes narrowed to 2 ft. 6 in. This area and -the corresponding area of similar shape in the _South-East Ancient -Ascent_ appear to have been intended to serve a similar purpose—that -is, to enable a crowd of defenders on a high level to act against two -or three bands of the attacking party on a lower level and in a narrow -passage. Into this area open out at least three entrances from buried -enclosures on either side. The area has in its length a fall of 9 ft. - -At the foot of this triangular-shaped area the passage runs north for -38 ft. It is 2 ft. to 4 ft. wide, and the side walls are 4 ft. high. -The fall in this length is 5 ft. At the northern end of this length and -crossing it at right angles is the old path used by visitors in making -the ascent of the hill. - -_Section (e)._—This extends from the old path used by visitors -ascending the hill, down to the _Water Gate_. - -From the Visitors’ Path the descent to the _Water Gate_ is somewhat -uninteresting, the passage walls being very much dilapidated, the -upper side wall being particularly damaged, having been subject to the -full force of falls of block débris down the face of the hill. In this -way the lower side walls, having been so protected, are in a somewhat -better condition. - -Starting down from the path there appears to be a chaos of stones -for some 15 ft., but still the passage can be traced. As there are -several lines of well-laid blocks close to the crossing of the path -and passage, it is quite probable that side passages ran into the main -passage at this point. At the 15 ft. down a very wide wall 4 ft. to 5 -ft. high runs down the north side of the passage for 140 ft. - -The south side shows an unburied wall 30 ft. long and about 3 ft. -high. At 80 ft. from the Visitors’ Path the passage opens out into -a triangular space 25 ft. wide, with the apex resting at the lowest -point of the steep enclosure. Such triangular spaces on the lines of -steep passages are not uncommon, being found at several ruins. There is -one higher up the same ascent, and another on the South-East Ancient -Ascent. In each case the descent is steep, and the lowest point of the -triangular area rests on a narrow passage coming up from below. - -At 140 ft. below the Visitors’ Path the north wall alone is standing, -and this runs downwards for 50 ft. This wall is 4 ft. high and is -rather wide. The south wall is now represented only by a line of wall -débris running parallel with the north wall. - -At 190 ft. the passage becomes lost, but exactly parallel and at a -distance of 20 ft. south is the commencement of another passage. -Probably the upper length takes a sharp turn west under a pile of -débris which lies between the two passages. This second passage has a -buried wall 3 ft. high on the south side. On the north side the wall -is 150 ft. long, and on this length the south wall has practically -disappeared. - -At the down side of this length the passage becomes far better defined, -having side walls from 3 ft. to 5 ft. high, and 3 ft. wide on their -summits. The passage here takes a sharp turn towards the north for 50 -ft., then to the south-west for 25 ft., and again to the north for -almost 100 ft., the side walls being intact for this length, the east -wall being from 4 ft. to 7 ft. high, and the passage 2 ft. 6 in. wide. -This is the best-preserved portion of the lower half of the _Ascent_. -The west side walls are from 3 ft. to 4 ft. high. Between these walls -are traces of steps, also a few buttresses, all rounded. - -At the end of this length the passage is continued between walls 4 -ft. high to its extremity, before reaching which it takes some sharp -W-shaped turns and terminates in very well-built walls. - -The _Water Gate_ faces this point at 100 ft. distance, only at a lower -level of some 30 ft. to 40 ft. The side of the hill is here very -steep, and is faced in parts with granite glacis, between which the -path descended to the _Water Gate_. Converging on the extremity of the -passage are traces of other passages from each side, which give the -impression that the _North-West Ascent_ was the main approach to the -summit of the _Acropolis_ from this side of the hill. - - - THE WATER GATE RUINS - -This is situated at the lowest extremity of the North-West Ancient -Ascent to the Acropolis, and forms its approach and entrance from the -valley on the west and north sides of Zimbabwe Hill. It has been styled -the Water Gate on account of there being immediately in front of it a -large donga (water-hole), one of the chain of dongas which run round -the hill from the south-west to the north-east, and are believed to be -artificial, but have become reduced from the original area and depth -by the silting in from the side of the hill during a very long period -of sub-tropical rains. Sections of walls have been discovered at great -depth in these dongas. - -This entrance forms part of a long line of wall which runs round the -base of the hill for some two or three hundred yards, and is called -the Inner Defence Wall, in which on the south-west side of the hill is -another large entrance, known as the Outspan Ruins. This line of wall -is in some places very well defined, being from 2 ft. to 4 ft. above -the level of the veld, but some lengths of it are mere lines of stone -débris or ridges of mounds full of blocks; but seen from some heights -up the face of the opposite hill it can be traced throughout its length. - -The gateway is exceedingly well constructed, and the curves of the ends -of the walls which form its sides are very bold and massive. Though -it is distant over 900 ft. from the main ruins on the summit of the -hill, it must be admitted to be a very good example of entrances of the -earliest ancient period. But the construction of the wall on either -side of this entrance, and at some little distance from it, becomes -only fairly good, and at a still greater distance roughly built, and -yet the entrance and the line of wall are of the same original plan. -This grading off of the quality of construction on either side of the -entrance and at some little distance from it is also seen in many -other entrances which are not in proximity to the main ruins. The line -of the Inner Defence Wall in which this entrance is inserted curves -outwards towards the west-north-west from about 30 ft. on either side -of it. The entrance is thus in the centre of the curve, and faces -west-north-west. It is 2 ft. 10 in. wide, and 7 ft. from outside to -inside. The side wall on the south is 7 ft. 6 in. high above the steps, -and on the north 5 ft. 6 in., though on either side the present reduced -summit of the wall is from 2 ft. to 4 ft. higher at a few feet from the -entrance. Like all main entrances, save one, at Zimbabwe, it is without -portcullis grooves, these having been found in rounded entrances in -internal and divisional walls. The wall on the south side is 8 ft. wide -on the floor of the entrance, and 7 ft. 6 in. on the north side. There -are remains of three steps on the entrance which commence flush with -the front faces of the two side walls. These are greatly dilapidated, -but it can be seen that they form part of the foundations of the wall. -One stone of what is left in the front row is considerably worn on the -top, as if it had been trodden on for many generations. - -As in very many entrances of the earliest style of ancient -architecture—for instance, the main entrance to the Elliptical -Temple—the walls on either side widen out as they approach the -entrance. In this instance the walls widen out from 4 ft. and 5 ft. to -8 ft. as the entrance is neared. There are also traces of buttresses -on either hand on the inner sides of the entrance, also of a few steps -ascending into the interior of the enclosed area. - -The front face of the wall on the north side is 5 ft. above the veld, -but the summit increases in height towards the interior face of the -wall, as most of the dilapidations have taken place on the outer side -of the wall. The front face of the south wall is 7 ft. in height, and -the summit of this wall ascends much higher towards its inner face. -At 12 ft. from the entrance, along the face of the south wall, it is -clearly seen where the excellent workmanship of the entrance grades off -to an inferior construction in the continuation of the wall southwards. -The line of wall on the south side is more or less intact for 48 ft., -at which point it becomes lost in débris and silted soil, though its -line of route can of course be traced much further. The wall on the -north side extends for 90 ft., but from this point northward it is very -easy to follow the course of its débris. - -The interior faces of the wall, for about 30 ft. on either side of the -entrance, are still in a good condition, and are from 4 ft. to 7 ft. -above the inside cleared-out level. - -On the inner face of the south wall, at 5 ft. above the present level -of the enclosed area, is a herring-bone pattern which directly faces -east-south-east. The pattern remaining is 3 ft. 6 in. long, and 1 ft. -2 in. deep, and is formed of tile-like blocks, varying from 10 in. -to 1 ft. 3 in. in length. Judging by the positions of the stones, it -is highly probable that this pattern extends at least 2 ft. further -towards the entrance. The usual frame for this pattern, and also for -Dentelle and Chevron Patterns, is still good for three courses at its -south end. The size of the stones employed in this pattern is above -the average size used for the same pattern in other ruins, and is -somewhat larger than those in the pattern at Little Umnukwana Ruins, in -the M’Pateni district, where the average length of the stones is 10 in. -So far this is the only herring-bone pattern discovered at Zimbabwe. It -was first noticed by Mr. J. W. Clarke, of Victoria, in September, 1902. - -From immediately behind this entrance the north-west face of the hills -rises very sharply, so much so that the rains of many years have silted -soil to a great depth behind the walls. Rain-water would naturally be -guided by the contour of this part of the hill towards this entrance, -so that the area behind it has become filled up to a very much higher -level than in the time of the original occupiers. Some two dozen cubic -feet of this silted soil was cleared out of the entrance in October, -1902, and while the work was progressing a heavy storm, lasting only an -hour, broke over Zimbabwe. On visiting the entrance later in the day it -was found that this one shower had caused the almost entire filling up -of the excavation by mud streams, which had washed down the side of the -hill. - -Immediately in front of the outer faces of this entrance and running -parallel with this length of the Inner Defence Wall, and at a distance -of 90 ft. from it, are the remains of a line of wall almost hidden in -débris. This wall can be traced for a distance of at least 130 ft., -and there appears to have been a passage or entrance through it at a -point almost due north of the Water Gate. Further to the north and -north-west of this wall is a donga, and on the north-north-west of this -donga runs the outer defence wall, which is at least 600 yds. long, and -encloses the line of dongas from west of the Elliptical Temple with the -north-east of the base of Zimbabwe Hill. In this Outer Defence Wall -is an opening, and in all probability, judging by the arrangement of -the wall débris and the contour of the ground, a gateway or entrance -was once situated at this point. This opening in the Outer Defence -Wall, the traces of an entrance in the ruined wall in front of the -Water Gate, and the Water Gate entrance are all in one line, and the -line is further made complete by the remains of two small walls in -the donga itself, which equally divide its width, as if these walls -either carried or supported a bridge; or at any rate afforded the means -for crossing the donga. In fact, the size of these dongas and their -relative positions appear to indicate that on this side of the hill the -Acropolis was further defended by water. These two small walls show -signs of having had rounded entrances in their centres. - -Taking into consideration the line of the three entrances, the fact -that the ancient ascent through the Water Gate leads into the heart -of the main ruins of the Acropolis, and further that the contour of -the ground beyond the Outer Defence Wall indicates the direction in -which a road from Zimbabwe to the north and north-west must take, it -is reasonable to conjecture that the ancient road from Zimbabwe in -that direction passed on the north side of the Makuma Kopje, on which -Mogabe’s kraal is now located. - - - TERRACED ENCLOSURES ON NORTH-WEST FACE OF ZIMBABWE HILL - -About forty or fifty ledges protrude in step form up the north-west -face of Zimbabwe Hill from the valley below up to the front of the west -main wall of the _Western Temple_, and these projections are not only -upwards in terrace form, but broadways, extending across the entire -length of the north-west face of the hill. - -The best view of these ledges is obtained from _Makuma Kopje_, on which -is Mogabe’s kraal. From this point it is seen that these projections -must have been artificially made. So great has been the fall of -wall débris, and the washing of soil for many centuries by heavy -sub-tropical rains down the hillside, that even the outer faces, or -retaining walls, of many of these projecting ledges or platforms are -completely buried, and their outline can but barely be traced owing to -the absence of any outcrop of walls. In fact, the whole of this face of -the hill for over 300 yds. upwards, and the same distance broadways, is -but a chaos of fallen blocks, and the visitor, while walking over this -area, sees infinitely less of their arrangement and plan than can be -seen at a distance of a third of a mile from the opposite kopje. - -These terraces are not disposed in lines across the hill as are the -_Hill Terraces_ of _Inyanga_, but each is independent of the other. -Nor do they in any point resemble the terrace system of the retaining -walls so often met with in ruins of the Second Period of Zimbabwe -architecture. - -Several of these projecting areas on the steep face of the hill have -recently been cleared of the débris which has in so many instances -completely covered them, and rendered their form but a mere suggestion -of an outline. The outer faces of some of the terrace walls have been -laid bare, and their construction is seen to be of true Zimbabwe -building of the First Period, all features of the Second Period, so far -as examinations have extended, being altogether absent. - -The walls are not built on straight lines but on curves, some of the -curves being laid on bold lines, in some instances amounting to a -semi-circle. The angular wall is absent. The construction of most of -the walls is superior to that of Second Period walls. There is no -promiscuous filling-up of the interiors of the walls. The walls are as -well built on the inside as they are on their outside faces, and they -possess the true Zimbabwe batter-back, and such entrances as have been -discovered are excellently rounded. - -The spaces between the outside edge of the summits of these walls in -front and the rising surface of the hill behind them have been levelled -by falling débris, but there is no lack of evidence to show that, where -not wholly filled in naturally in the course of time, the work of -their complete filling-in has been systematically carried out by people -who were not the original builders. On clearing the irregular surfaces -of these ledges of débris it was found that the areas were rudely -covered with red clay or _daka_, and on this flooring were the clay -foundations of Makalanga huts, with piles of buck bones and quantities -of charcoal and bits of iron slag. Mogabe’s headmen state that these -hut foundations are not those of Makalanga of their time, as Mogabe’s -kraal, and that of Mokomo before him, though on the north side of the -hill, were situated much higher up the hill and much nearer to, or even -among, the main ruins. Nor do they belong to Makalanga of sixty years -ago, for Mogabe’s people say that when Chipfuno arrived as a boy some -seventy years ago this portion of the hill was then in the same state -as is seen to-day. Judging by the weathered blocks piled and strewn -upon these areas, it is very possible that these rough clay floors and -hut foundations are at least seventy years old, if not considerably -older. Portions of iron assegais and Makalanga hoes found on these -floors are so eaten by rust that they have become thin, and are almost -as brittle as glass. - -But the most interesting feature of these terraced areas lies in the -fact, obvious to anyone who inspects the areas cleared out in July -and August, 1902, that these areas were not originally terraces but -ordinary enclosures, with floors from 4 ft. to 10 ft. lower than the -present reduced summits of the outer walls. Some people of times -later than those of the original builders had deliberately taken the -blocks from the outer or down-side walls of the enclosures and thrown -them inside till the interiors were filled up level with the reduced -height of the walls, and over such filling-in had spread a clay floor, -and so made these enclosures into terraced platforms and dry vantage -ground on which to build their huts, lay their corn-drying, threshing, -and winnowing floors, and also their small _daka_ granaries, which, -occupying these well-drained and soilless positions, would be free from -the ravages of white ants. - -By clearing the outer faces of these walls from block débris, which -has fallen or rolled down from higher positions on the hill—and these -falls have in some instances utterly ruined the walls beneath—and -following the curve of wall round to its opposite side on the face of -the hill, the rounded entrances into some of these enclosures have been -unburied, the floor of such entrances being on an average 5 ft. to 9 -ft. below the débris. These entrances, so far as discoveries have been -made, are all at the rear of the enclosure and close to the face of the -hill. These entrances are narrow, 1 ft. 10 in. and 2 ft. 2 in. being a -fair average width, and once the line of floor which is level with the -floor of the entrances is cleared, it is seen that there are no steps -inside the enclosures, though outside the entrances there are in a -few instances steps leading up to the entrances only, but never steps -leading upwards from inside the entrances. The floor of the entrance, -in each case, is the level of the floor of the enclosure. Inside is -seen a mass of dry blocks without soil, and many of these blocks show a -face that was once exposed to the weather and become time-eaten if not -greatly decomposed, which shows that they once formed part of the face -of an ancient wall. - -In removing this block débris from these enclosures no pick or spade -was necessary. The blocks were picked up and handed outside, and when -the enclosures had been emptied there was not 12 in. depth of soil, and -what was there was mainly fine granite chippings caused by the throwing -in of the blocks, and of decomposed _daka_, which had formed the floor, -and which, being of poor quality, constant rainfalls had practically -rotted into sand. It was on these cleared-out floors that portions -of large carved soapstone bowls were discovered in July and August, -1902. The “finds” on the bottom and original floors bore undoubted -evidences of antiquity, and were totally different in character from -the unmistakable Makalanga objects found on the _daka_ floor some feet -above. - -As before stated, these terraces of enclosures are in some points -independent of each other—that is, they extend across the face of the -hill most irregularly. The second enclosure may be 20 ft. or 30 ft. in -front of the level of its neighbour on either hand, the third 20 ft. -or 30 ft. to the rear of the level of the first enclosure, and so on. -But the enclosures are built very nearly one behind the other up the -face of the hill, the front wall of one being the back wall of the next -below. Between these ascending lines of enclosures are narrow sunken -passages, the existence of which, until August, 1902, was altogether -unsuspected, as such passages showed no outcrop of their side walls. -Two of these passages are now known to be at least 350 ft. long, and -one of them has been cleared out for this length. They were exceedingly -narrow, so that at many points only one person could pass at a time. -The widths average 2 ft., and their floors are from 3 ft. to 12 ft. -below the present débris-strewn surface of the slope of the hill. Into -these passages the entrances to enclosures on either side open. - -Evidently the same people who filled in the enclosures and converted -them into platforms likewise deliberately filled in the passages for -the foundations of old Makalanga huts, and granaries were laid across -the filled-in passages. The “finds” on the floors of these passages and -those found on their “filled-in” tops showed as great differences in -every respect as were presented by the objects found on the original -floors of the enclosures and those on the later clay floors above them. - - - SOUTH TERRACE - -This is a natural ledge of ground artificially improved, running east -at the foot of the south precipice for 200 yards from the foot of the -_Rock Passage_, and extending beyond the point where the most easterly -ruins of the Acropolis are built along the summit cliff. This terrace -is supported on its south side by several retaining walls. - -Almost all the enclosure walls along this terrace have been demolished -by the falls of great masses of walls from the ruins on the summit of -the cliff. Barely the foundations of such enclosure walls now remain, -the only exception being the enclosure adjoining the bottom end of the -_Rock Passage_. - - - THE “OUTSPAN RUINS” - -These ruins, which lie 75 yds. to the north of Havilah Camp, are on the -outspan in the valley which runs along the south side of Zimbabwe Hill, -and also on the path leading from the camp to the South-East Ancient -Ascent. This block of ruins was entirely cleared out of wall débris and -silted soil in September, 1902, and now visitors may walk upon what was -practically the ancient floor. The cement which once formed the floor -has become decomposed to granite sand, and owing to the enclosures of -the ruin having been buried some 3 ft. to 5 ft. under the veld, the -enclosures held all the water which in rainy seasons would pour down -the side of the hill immediately behind. - -These ruins form part of the line of Hill Inner Defence Wall, which -encloses the whole of Zimbabwe Hill on its west, south, and east sides -and runs along the foot of the lower slopes of the hill. The most -complete view of this continuous line of wall is obtained from the -summit of the hill. This line of defence wall is again enclosed on the -west side by the Outer Defence Wall, which runs from the north side of -the hill almost as far as the Elliptical Temple, and between these two -walls are the three large dongas on the west side of the hill. - -The “Outspan Ruins” form the most perfect section of the Hill Inner -Defence Wall, not excepting the fine entrances to the North-West -Ancient Ascent with its herring-bone pattern, which is also another -section of the same line of inner defence wall, only on the north-west -side of the hill. They also must have served as an important entrance -through the south-west portion of the Hill Inner Defence Wall. The -entrance is complicated and rendered very difficult of attack by a -number of rounded buttresses, in addition to which there are small -enclosures most substantially built, which, most probably, were -guard-rooms. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan OUTSPAN RUINS Zimbabwe] - -There is nothing angular in the plan and construction of these ruins. -They very patently resemble other outlying buildings which obviously -formed part of the original plan of the main Hill Ruins. The courses -in the wall are not very regular, and stones of all shapes and sizes -have been introduced. There is no decorative pattern in this section -of the Hill Inner Defence Wall, but there is one peculiarity in its -architecture, and in that of a conical tower which is described later. - -These ruins occupy an area of 113 ft. from south-east to north-west, -and 70 ft. from north-east to south-west. - -The main wall faces south. The 113 ft. length only includes the line of -main wall which still stands some 5 ft. to 11 ft. in height, the wall -at either end of this length can be traced extending for 500 yds. to -the east and 350 yds. to the west and north. - -The entrance which has rounded walls on either side is 4 ft. wide, and -passes diagonally south-west through the main wall, thus giving it a -length of 8 ft. On its eastern side the wall is 7 ft. high, and 5 ft. -on the western side. - -The ruins on the north side of main wall form a central enclosure to -the north of the entrance with an enclosure on either side of it, also -a passage on the south and west sides of the central enclosure. - -The central enclosure is formed by a wall 22 ft. long, 4 ft. high, and -5 ft. to 7 ft. wide on the present reduced summit, which runs north at -right angles from the inside of the main wall at 4 ft. east from the -east side of the entrance. The wall, which at its northern extremity -is rounded, forms the divisional wall between the central and eastern -enclosures. The west side of the central enclosure is formed by a wall, -rounded at each end, which starts at 4 ft. from opposite the inside of -the entrance, and goes west for 13 ft. and north-east for 19 ft. This -wall averages 3 ft. to 8 ft. in height, and is from 4 ft. to 5 ft. 6 -in. wide at base, and 3 ft. 6 in. on the highest summit. Where the east -wall of this enclosure comes opposite the end of the north-east wall is -an entrance 3 ft. 6 in. wide. The area of this enclosure is 14 ft. from -west to east and 19 ft. from north to south. It is possible that in the -centre of this enclosure once stood a round buttress or tower, and the -position of a few blocks in the floor makes this something more than a -mere conjecture. - -On passing through the main entrance from the south, one enters a -passage which runs parallel with the north side of the main wall -for 17 ft. towards the west, and then curves sharply towards the -east-north-east for 19 ft. At its two extremities the passage is from -3 ft. to 3 ft. 6 in. wide, but at the curve at the end of the first -length of 17 ft. it is 6 ft. wide. The western wall of this passage is -19 ft. long, 5 ft. wide at base, and 3 ft. 6 in. on the highest portion -of the summit, this being at the south end, where the wall is 8 ft. -high. This wall is rounded at its northern extremity, and forms the -divisional wall between the passage and the eastern enclosure. Neither -the eastern nor the western enclosures can at present be defined on -their northern sides, though lines of block débris would appear to fix -their boundaries. - -The most interesting architectural feature in the “Outspan Ruins” is -the conical tower built to form part of the main wall. This is an -independent structure from its base upwards. It is 9 ft. high, and -though built of irregularly shaped stones and without much adherence to -courses, it is symmetrical in appearance. On its west side between it -and the rounded end of the main wall is a space 2 in. wide on the floor -and 5 ft. wide at 6 ft. from the floor. This narrow loopholed space -still remains open, save for a single slab which at 6 ft. above the -floor is built into the tower and the main wall, thus forming a sort of -stone shelf. On the eastern side of the tower the space between it and -the rounded wall of the entrance is neatly built up, and a slab is laid -from the rounded wall into the courses of the tower at 5 ft. above the -floor. Possibly these slabs on either side of the tower formed raised -platforms to afford a view over the wall, while the narrow loophole -might have served as a look-out. The circumference of the tower at 5 -ft. from its base is 19 ft. 3 in. - -The portion of these ruins which lies to the south of the main wall -comprises (1) a wall running south at right angles to the main wall at -4 ft. from the west side of the entrance. This wall is 24 ft. long, -and averages 3 ft. 6 in. in height, and is 2 ft. wide on its present -summit; (2) a circular buttress built independently and standing -opposite the outside of the main entrance at a distance of 8 ft. 6 in. -Its height is now only 3 ft. 10 in., and its circumference at base -is 28 ft. 4 in. It is hollow in the centre, and it has collapsed from -summit to base on its southern side for a width of 3 ft. The obvious -object of this buttress is to divide the open space on the outside of -the entrance into two narrow passages, each of which could easily be -defended by a few even against a great number of besiegers. - -At 36 ft. east of the south side of the entrance is an outcrop of a -wall 6 ft. long, and this runs due south at some 5 ft. in front of the -main wall. - - - - - CHAPTER XIX - - “THE VALLEY OF RUINS” - - -“The Valley of Ruins” is on the north-east and east sides of the -Elliptical Temple, and almost half-way between it and the south side -of the east end of the Acropolis Hill. This conglomeration of ruins -extends from the edge of the slope which runs along the north-east -sides of both Elliptical Temple and No. 1 Ruins to within 60 yds. of -the west side of East Ruins, and covers an area of about 250 yds. from -east to west and 120 yds. from north to south. This area is the upper -portion of the Zimbabwe Valley, which descends towards the east, the -streams from this valley during the rainy season falling into the -Mapudzi stream, which runs southwards down the Schlichter Gorge towards -the Moshawasha Valley, and later finds its way into the Motelekwe River. - -Till 1902–3 these extensive ruins, some of which are massive and most -excellently constructed, remained not only unexplored but unexamined, -and no particulars or plan had ever been attempted to be given, all -writers being content to refer to them as “The Valley of Ruins,” while -some writers altogether ignore the existence of the group. Dr. Helm, of -Morgenster, whose professional duties have taken him twice every month -for the last six years within a few score yards of the ruins, states -that he never supposed the wood and the jungle contained any walls. - -Since the Occupation in 1890 no attention has been paid to these -ruins. No visitors’ or even native paths crossed the area, nor are -there the slightest traces in the shape of trenches of relic hunters -and gold prospectors having worked here. So unfrequented has it been -that some fair-sized buck have recently been shot within the walls. -The area was found to be covered with an almost impenetrable jungle of -trees, bushes, and creepers. The local natives declared the place to be -bewitched, and consequently they avoided it. - -“The Valley of Ruins” has recently (1903) been found to consist of -three groups, each of which includes several distinct ruins, some being -of an important character. - -The area is divided as follows:— - -1. Lower or north-eastern section, including the Posselt, Philips, and -Maund Ruins. - -2. Middle section, which lies between the lower section and the edge of -the slope of land on the north-east side of the Elliptical Temple. - -3. Upper section, including all ruins between the Elliptical Temple -and the edge of the slope overlooking lower portions of “The Valley of -Ruins.” - -Before describing these complicated groups there are some features -represented by them which may be mentioned. - -(_a_) Several of these ruins, especially those in the lower section, -are exceedingly massive and well built, the courses marvellously -true with an absence of straight joints. The curves of the wall are -beautifully designed and are laid on boldly sweeping lines. The -material is good, and is also most carefully selected and sized. The -masonry of many of the walls is far superior to that of some of the -divisional walls of the Elliptical Temple and to the majority of the -walls on the Acropolis. - -(_b_) The absence of the angular style of buildings, except with -certain structures in the middle section. Rounded entrances and -buttresses and gracefully rounded ends of walls form the most -prevailing features of most of these ruins. Two conical towers, several -very large semi-circular buttresses or platforms form prominent -features. Two drains were discovered (1903) in Philips Ruins and three -in Posselt Ruins (B). - -(_c_) The middle section is poorly built, and possesses some angular -features. The upper section is well built. - -(_d_) The discovery (1903) in the lower section of these ruins of gold -articles, decorated and plain soapstone beams and relics of the oldest -type, including the soapstone beam with bird on summit—the finest -specimen yet found in Zimbabwe—point to the fact that certain of these -ruins were used for somewhat higher purposes than those of forts or -workshops, possibly, as many now suggest, as residences for priests -or officials connected with the temple. This surmise is justifiable, -seeing that the north-east passage connects such well-built and -substantial portions of these mines directly with the North Entrance -and Parallel Passage and Sacred Enclosure of the Elliptical Temple. -In the lower section of these ruins there are no traces of ancient or -native industries having been carried on. - -(_e_) In the lower section of these ruins there are fewer signs of -modern or even of very old Makalanga clay huts, such as are fully -described in “_Native huts found in ruins_.” No modern articles were -found here. The consequence is there has been in this lower group of -ruins very little artificial filling-up of the enclosures, and the -ruins are more open and are easier of examination than most of the -other ruins at Zimbabwe. But being on lower ground, with a huge bank -of granite and soil on the south-western flank, there has been a -considerable amount of soil silted into the ruins during the course of -hundreds of years, but not to any great depth. The filling-in, both -natural, is no more than about 2 ft., as compared with 5 ft. and 7 -ft. in other ruins elsewhere where there are abundant signs of native -occupation. - - - LOWER SECTION OF THE “VALLEY OF RUINS” - - POSSELT RUINS - -These ruins are the most westerly of the lower section of _The Valley -of Ruins_. They consist of two almost oval-shaped buildings adjoining -each other, and for the purposes of this description are marked _A_ and -_B_ respectively on the plan. This set of ruins lies at the north-east -extremity of the _North-East Passage_ leading from the _Elliptical -Temple_. - -_A_ is 175 ft. long from north to south, and 91 ft. from east to west. -_B_ lies at almost right angles to _A_ on its south-west side, and is -110 ft. from east to west, and 75 ft. from north to south. - -The interesting points concerning the Posselt Ruins are:— - -(1) The discovery of beaten gold and of the older class of relics. - -(2) Two entrances with unworked soapstone beams used as lintels in -portcullis grooves. - -(3) Complicated entrances; a small conical tower; cement dadoes; a -parallel passage; circular and semi-circular buttresses; only slight -artificial filling-in of interior; some evidence of occupation by old -or modern natives. - -(4) Massive character of walls originally averaging at least 15 ft. -in height; excellent construction, main walls being superior to many -divisional walls in the _Elliptical Temple_ and to most of the walls on -the _Acropolis_; the overwhelming predominance of the rounded style of -architecture. - -(5) No evidence of either ancient or native industries having been -carried on in these ruins. - - - SECTION A OF POSSELT RUINS - -_Main walls._—The main walls average from 7 ft. to 12 ft. in height -above the surface of the veld, while the height of the interior -faces, which are some 3 ft. above the outside level, averages 6 ft. -to 9 ft. The great amount of wall débris at the foot of the walls -suggests an original average height of at least 15 ft. above the cement -floors. Some practical builders have computed it to have been almost -20 ft., and the batter-back would permit of this. The average of 15 -ft. is a very conservative estimate of the original height. There is -more dilapidation on the outside top edges of the walls than on the -inside. The width of the main walls at base averages 6 ft., and on -the reduced summit at 9 ft. above the outer surface of the ground -4 ft. Some of the divisional walls are almost equally as massive. -As is usual in the rounded style of building, the main walls, also -the foundations, widen out as they near an entrance. The curves of -the walls are most symmetrical, especially of the wall which curves -outwards from the north to the east-south-east. Two granite beams—one 6 -ft. 3 in. high—once stood erect on the north-east portion of the main -wall. A flat granite slab still stands erect on the west wall. Other -long granite beams were found at the foot of the wall both outside -and inside. The foundations of the main walls are carried under the -entrances and form their floors. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan POSSELT RUINS “Valley of Ruins” (_Lower -Section_)] - -_Construction._—The construction of the main walls and also of some of -the divisional walls is good, though there are places where a rather -inferior workmanship can be noticed. On the whole, the courses are -regular, straight joints are infrequent, and the sizes of the blocks of -each course show they were carefully selected. There are a few short -lengths of walls in the interior which do not appear to have been parts -of the original building. These are erected upon the black vegetable -mould, and are poorly constructed, are slight and of indifferent -material, being almost identical, if not quite so, with old Makalanga -walls, the noticeable feature of which is the building of one stone -exactly above and squarely on the block below without any pretence at -bonding. This is known as the column style, and can be seen in walls -in native villages as well as within certain ruins at Zimbabwe, mainly -on the _Acropolis_, where, as in these ruins, there are the remains of -very old Makalanga cement huts. - -_Entrances._—There are four rounded entrances through the main wall; -possibly there was a fifth on the east side where there is a wide gap. -There are twelve entrances in divisional walls, nine of which are -rounded, two being partly angular and partly rounded, and one angular, -this last being before referred to as probably of later construction. -It is almost certain that many more divisional entrances will yet be -discovered, as several of the divisional walls only just outcrop above -the surface of the interior. Almost every entrance has portcullis -grooves. All four of the entrances through the main wall have rounded -buttresses on either side projecting into the interior of the building. -Three of the more important divisional entrances also have rounded -buttresses on each side of the entrance. - -The E.N.E. entrance was evidently the main entrance. Its walls are very -massive, and the arrangement of the inner walls strongly suggests the -intention to protect the entrance and afford a second line of defence. -This entrance generally is the most imposing of all four approaches. -It opens directly on to the exterior of the building, which the west -entrance does not; nor most probably did the S.E. entrance, which -opens out towards other ruins. The E.N.E. entrance varies in width -from 2 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft., and the passage is 12 ft. long. The side -walls are 5 ft. high, but rise sharply towards the exterior to 8 ft. -and 11 ft. respectively, and both are about 6 ft. wide on floor level. -As in the entrances through the main wall of the _Elliptical Temple_, -the foundations run under the entrance and form its passage floor. -The entrance has two buttresses on the inner side, and these have -portcullis grooves. - -The west entrance opens in _Section B_ of the _Posselt Ruins_. This is -1 ft. 10 in. wide, 7 ft. long, and the side walls are 7 ft. high above -the floor and 6 ft. wide on the floor level. The entrance shows remains -of portcullis grooves. The floor of the entrance is 2 ft. above the -cement floor of the interior of the building, and there are the remains -of large rounded cement steps down on to the floor. On the inner side -is the _Parallel Passage_, described later, and as in this passage -are a quantity of buttresses, these show that the entrance was well -protected from attack from the side of _Section B_, especially on the -north outer side of the entrance, where is what visitors have called a -“sentry-box,” a small walled-in area immediately adjoining and opening -directly upon the entrance into _Section A_. The elaborate protection -of this entrance from attacks from _Section B_ would appear to show -that _Section A_ was regarded by the builders as the more important -portion of these buildings. - -The south-east entrance opens out on to the veld, but there are -extensive ruins, portion of the middle section of “The Valley of -Ruins,” at a few yards’ distance in front of it with traces of walls -between. This entrance is 2 ft. 4 in. wide between the buttresses, and -3 ft. wide between the sides of the main wall. It is 11 ft. long, and -the side walls are 7 ft. high on either side, rising rapidly on the -east side to 10 ft. There is a pair of rounded buttresses 5 ft. high on -the inner side, and these have portcullis grooves. It is probable that -this was the entrance used by the ancient occupiers on ascending from -these ruins to the _Elliptical Temple_, as the north-eastern extremity -of the _North-East Passage_ is not many yards away from this entrance. - -An entrance through a divisional wall just within and on the west side -of the E.N.E. entrance is worthy of notice. This passes through a -wall 6 ft. wide on floor level, and 7 ft. high on the south-west side -and 6 ft. high on the north-east side. In this entrance, which has -rounded buttresses on the inner side, a length of unworked soapstone -beam was found acting as a side lintel in a portcullis groove, also -the fragments of a corresponding soapstone lintel. In this entrance -was discovered (March, 1903) beaten gold and fragments of decorated -soapstone bowls. - -_Parallel Passage._—This is the sixth parallel passage so far -discovered at Zimbabwe, and is about the fifth in importance. It runs -for 66 ft. on the inside of, and parallel to, the west main wall. The -inner or east wall of the passage is formed by a line of buttresses -with short walls between each, and in these walls are various entrances -leading towards the interior of the building. No portion of this inner -wall is more than 5 ft. in height, though the wall débris along their -summits rises 2 ft. higher. The passage is defended by several pairs of -rounded buttresses with portcullis grooves, and averages in width from -5 ft. to 8 ft. - -The passage commences on the south side of the west entrance which -leads from _Section B_ of these ruins. Two large rounded buttresses -form its southern extremity. The buttress on the west side, which is -5 ft. high, projects 5 ft. into the walled-in area opposite to the -inside of the west entrance, and the eastern buttress, which is 4 ft. -high, projects 3 ft. to meet it, leaving the entrance between them 3 -ft. wide. There are no portcullis grooves, but it is probable, judging -by the position of the débris, that a pair of rounded buttresses once -stood on either side of the entrance. Portcullis grooves are most -usually found in such additional buttresses. In this walled-in area, -facing the inside of the west entrance, is a passage-way leading into -the interior of the building, but this still remains unexplored. - -Going north from this point, the Parallel Passage is narrowed to 4 -ft. by a rounded buttress 5 ft. high projecting from the inner or -eastern side of the passage. From this buttress a wall 5 ft. high runs -north-east and parallel to the inside of main wall for 13 ft., the -passage along this length being about 4 ft. 6 in. wide. At the northern -end of this length of wall are a pair of rounded buttresses 4 ft. 6 in. -high with portcullis grooves. The entrance between the two is 1 ft. -10 in. wide, and these are built upon the same foundation which forms -the floor of the entrance. At 16 ft. further north is another pair -projecting from either side into the passage. The one on the west side -is 5 ft. high, is rounded, and has a portcullis groove. The opposite -is 3 ft. high and greatly dilapidated. It is angular on one side and -rounded on the other, and there are traces only of a portcullis groove. -The quality of the construction differs, the rounded buttress being the -better built. Possibly the other buttress is a reconstruction of a much -later date. The entrance between the buttresses is 2 ft. 6 in. wide. -Both buttresses are erected on the same foundation which forms the -floor of the entrance. - -Between the last-described two pairs of buttresses and on the east side -is a roughly built entrance 1 ft. 10 in. wide, with the two buttresses -angular on the outside and rounded on the inside. This leads into -the interior of the building. At the northern end of the passage and -on the east side and leading into the interior is an entrance with -portcullis grooves built upon a curved line. The west corners, which -are 3 ft. 6 in. high, are angular, but the inside walls are rounded. -This is altogether better built and more substantial than the entrance -previously described. The northern extremity of the passage is abrupt -on its eastern side, which faces the south end of the gap in the main -west wall, and the presumption is that the passage was originally -continued further north, but that when the main wall fell the eastern -side of the passage was also destroyed. - -In places the floor of the passage shows by the wall of a large -semi-circular buttress which projects 11 ft. from the inner face of -the main wall. All the walls surrounding the area are very well built. -The south side is formed by an opening 2 ft. 4 in. wide between the -semi-circular buttress and the west side of the conical tower, by the -conical tower, by an opening 2 ft. wide between the east side of the -tower and a rounded buttress 4 ft. high, which projects 3 ft. 6 in. -from the wall forming the east side of the enclosure. The floor, which -is made of granite cement, is 1 ft. above the floor on the south, and -is approached by a rounded step. - -_Conical Tower._—This tower and the Conical Tower in the adjoining -_Philips Ruins_ are almost identical in construction and position. It -has a circumference at 14 in. above its foundation of 17 ft. 6 in., and -at 3 ft. 6 in. above this level the circumference is 15 ft. 6 in. It -is impossible to measure its circumference at base owing to the cement -floor enclosing its north and north-east sides. It is 5 ft. 8 in. high -from base on the north side and 4 ft. on the south side. The filling-in -process of very late occupiers has caused its dilapidation. The tower -has been proved to be solid. - -_Semi-circular Buttress._—A large remains of pavement, portions being -cemented and portions paved with blocks. A large rounded granite cement -step crosses the northern end of the passage. - -_Dadoes._—In the passage and on the lower inside face of the main wall -are several lengths of granite cement dadoes, the longest being 10 ft. -and 12 ft. The dadoes are still 2 ft. to 3 ft. high, and about 3 in. to -5 in. thick. - -_Enclosures._—It is probable, judging by the number of sections of -divisional walls outcropping above the surface of the interior, that -there are some eight or ten distinct enclosures within _Section -A_ of these ruins. Some enclosures have several entrances, all so -far discovered being rounded. The divisional walls of most of the -enclosures are massive and well built, some being far superior in -construction and material to several of the divisional walls in the -_Elliptical Temple_. - -The most perfect enclosure is on the inner side of the north-east, -immediately west of the E.N.E entrance. This was entirely filled in -with soil and blocks up to the tops of the walls, which are 7 ft. and 8 -ft. high. All this filling-in has now been removed (March, 1903), and -a conical tower, which had been completely buried, was discovered. The -area is formed on the north-east side by the inner face of the main -wall, which is 7 ft. high and 11 ft. long, on the east side by a wall -7 ft. high and 9 ft. long, and on the west side it averages from 2 in. -to 4 in. in thickness. Its faces are usually smoothed and the tops are -rounded off inwards. - -_Native huts._—There are the remains of seven old native huts in this -section of the ruins. These are identical with No. 3 huts described in -“_Makalanga huts within ancient ruins_,” see “_Notes on Architecture_.” -They are built about 2 ft. and 3 ft. above the ancient cement floors. -Two are built across gaps in divisional walls, and one partially covers -a portion of the gap in the north-west main wall, which, had it been -intact, would not have enabled the builders of the hut to find room for -the erection of their dwelling. - - - POSSELT RUINS. SECTION B - -This lies to the west of _Section A_ of the _Posselt Ruins_, which it -immediately adjoins on its south-west side and practically forms part -of the same ruins. - -Its area is 110 ft. from east to west, and 75 ft. from north to south, -and is oval in plan. The construction of the walls is excellent, and -this section appears to be one of the earliest period ruins. Its -central portion has been filled in, and some of the walls dividing off -the enclosures are still buried beneath the débris. There are no signs -of native occupation of the interior of the ruins, but on the outside -of the building are the circular ruins of old native huts and débris -consisting mostly of ashes, bones, and pottery. - -Only the three enclosures at the west end have been cleared out to -their old floors, but nothing was found of any antique character. - -_Walls._—The outer walls are massive and show excellent construction, -and average in height between 5 ft. and 10 ft., their width being 6 ft. -at 5 ft. above the ground. The inner walls are also massive and are -fairly well built, being 5 ft. wide at 4 ft. above the ground. There is -a narrow and low divisional wall of poor construction cutting off the -north-east portion of these ruins, and this most probably is of later -date. - -_Entrances._—There are only two entrances through the main or outer -walls. The one on the north-east side is 2 ft. 6 in. wide, and has -very massive walls, which are rounded, and all exceptionally well -constructed. There is a pair of rounded buttresses immediately inside, -and these have portcullis grooves. The foundation of the main wall -forms the floor of the entrance passage. - -The south entrance is 4 ft. wide, and is built upon the foundation of -the main south wall. It is narrowed to 2 ft. by two rounded buttresses, -and these have portcullis grooves. - -“_Sentry-box._”—This class of structure has been popularly termed -“sentry-box.” In the angle at the north-east corner is a rounded wall -with a narrow opening into the inside. This is situated close to the -entrance leading into _Section A_, and its position suggests the idea -that it was used as a sentry-box guarding the entrance. There are -several of these structures at Zimbabwe, and they all occupy a similar -position near entrances. - -_Drains._—There are three drains through the walls of this section of -the _Posselt Ruins_, one in the south wall passing through a wall 5 ft. -6 in. wide, one in a divisional wall, 4 ft. wide, which projects from -the south main wall towards the north, and one in a divisional wall 5 -ft. wide at the north-west of the building. - -A semi-circular buttress projects 11 ft. into the interior from the -cunei face of the north-east main wall. It is 27 ft. round its outer -face. On the east side the buttress is 8 ft. high, and on the south and -west sides, owing to dilapidations, and also to a higher floor, these -faces are only 4 ft. and 5 ft. high. The top surface is covered with a -foot depth of granite cement. - -_Circular platform._—This is at the eastern extremity of the ruins. -It is 21 ft. in diameter and 5 ft. above the floors of the adjoining -enclosures. On the east side the summit is approached by granite cement -steps which are large and well rounded, and on the south by stone steps. - -On the west of this platform are two raised enclosures immediately -on the inside of the main wall. The northern one has steps leading -some way towards the west side of the _Circular Platform_, and there -probably once reached its summit. - -_Cement dadoes._—In these ruins are many lengths of granite cement -dado work, the greatest length intact being 33 ft., and this is on the -east of the west main wall. This work is also extensively found in -the _Parallel Passage_. Not only is it found on the faces of walls, -but also on round buttresses and on the side walls of entrances, thus -reducing their widths by about 5 in. It runs about 3 ft. higher than -the cemented floors. - - - PHILIPS RUINS - -These ruins lie to the east of the _Posselt Ruins_, which they almost -adjoin, being only 8 yds. apart at their nearest points. These ruins -present several most interesting features:— - -(1) The discovery (March, 1903) of the finest, most perfect, and most -elaborately decorated soapstone beam with bird on summit yet found at -_Great Zimbabwe_, also of phalli and beaten gold. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan PHILIPS’ RUINS “Valley of Ruins” (_Lower -Section_) ] - -(2) An excellently constructed and massive wall, built upon the plan -of a section of a circle, with its centre facing due east, and the -discovery of quantities of sections of worked soapstone beams along -its base, together with fragments of carved soapstone bowls, and also -ancient relics of the oldest type. - -(3) A small conical tower uncovered March, 1903. - -(4) Excellent and massive character of the construction of the walls of -the numerous rounded entrances, buttresses, and ends of walls. There -are two drains, also a tall slate beam built into a portcullis groove -to form a side lintel post in an entrance. - -(5) The complete absence of signs of native occupation of these ruins -except on the east side of the large curved wall, and these are slight. - -_Area._—The area occupied by these ruins is 140 ft. from east to west, -and 150 ft. from north to south. There is no main outer wall on the -south side, and it is probable, judging by wall débris, that these -ruins extended some 20 yds. further south. - -_Main walls._—These extend from the west side round the north to the -south-east, the rest having disappeared; or possibly Posselt Ruins and -these were originally one immense ruin, so that an outer wall on the -west side might never have existed; but this could not have been the -case with regard to the south side. - -The main outer walls average from 5 ft. to 9 ft. in height on their -outer faces, and 3 ft. to 8 ft. on their inner sides, the interior of -the building being on a considerably higher level than the exterior. -This is owing mainly to the natural fall of the ground towards the -north-east and east on which the ruins are built. The widths of the -main walls vary from 6 ft. to 8 ft. on floor level, 5 ft. at 6 ft. -above the floor, while some reduced summits have a width of 5 ft. at 9 -ft. above the floor. - -_Construction._—These ruins, especially some portions, such as the -massive curved wall, are most excellently built. The selection of -the blocks, the good and even quality of the granite employed, show -that some special importance was attached to these portions of the -ruins. Except for one small buttress, the angular style of building is -absolutely absent from these structures. - -The divisional walls are also well built, and are superior to the main -and outer walls of several ruins at Zimbabwe. - -_Curved wall._—This wall forms the most prominent feature in these -ruins, and it at once attracts the attention of all visitors on account -of its symmetrical and massive character, excellent workmanship, and -the height of its reduced summit, which has the extraordinary width of -5 ft. at 13 ft. from the ground. The curve is laid on so exact a plan -that it was an easy matter for a surveyor to definitely determine the -centre of the arc. The centre of the curve faces outwards due east, -and standing at the centre of the arc the extremities of the wall -are found to be E.N.E. and E.S.E. respectively. It is 125 ft. round -its inner face at 6 ft. above the remains of cement flooring, and 84 -ft. round its outer face at the same height from the ground, but its -outer extremities are hidden behind rounded walls and buttresses. The -distance between the two extremities across the bow is 75 ft., and -from that line to the centre of the curve the distance is 23 ft. The -batter-back of the wall is 1 ft. 3 in. in 10 ft. - -The height of the reduced summit for 60 ft. averages 9 ft. to 13 ft. -on either side of the wall, but as these heights are taken from raised -cement steps, platforms, and sections of floors, at least another 2 ft. -or 3 ft. may be added to their present reduced height, for the greatest -height from foundation to summit is 15 ft. 6 in. The original height -may safely be estimated at 20 ft. above the cement flooring. This -estimate is justified by the great amount of wall débris found along -the bases of either side of the wall. On the summit near the south end -of the wall are the remains of a banquette, and these inner terraces or -look-outs are almost invariably behind walls which are at least breast -high above the floor of the banquette; moreover, the batter-back of -the faces of the wall would well allow of a wall 20 ft. high and yet -leave a fairly wide summit. Where the entrance facing the E.N.E. passes -through this wall, the side walls are reduced to 5 ft. in height on -either side above the floor of the entrance, which is 3 ft. above the -foundation of the wall. - -This entrance, like those in the main walls of the _Elliptical Temple_, -is carried over the foundation of the wall, and this forms its passage -floor. It is 2 ft. wide and 6 ft. 6 in. long, and has two rounded -buttresses on the inner side, and these have portcullis grooves. These -buttresses are built upon a semi-circular platform projecting 6 ft. -into the interior of the building, thus making the entrance passage -about 12 ft. in length. The floor of the entrance is covered with -granite cement. - -One peculiar feature in the construction of this wall is that, while -the northern end is rounded off, the southern end is continued in the -form of a portion of a loop, which circles southwards and eastwards, -and then runs back into the east face of the curved wall, enclosing -an almost circular area of 10 ft. in diameter. The wall in this loop -is well built. The average height of the loop-wall is 6 ft., but on -the south side it rises to 10 ft., where the width of the summit is 3 -ft. The interior was rudely filled up with stones, below which was a -cement floor 3 ft. higher than the outside level and 6 ft. above the -foundation. This raised platform or pulpit is approached on the west -side by a few steps leading up to a rounded opening into the loop. - -This curved wall, massive as it is, does not form an outer wall of -these ruins, but crosses their centre, dividing them into two parts. -It is apparently independent so far as its plan, superior character of -construction, and purpose are concerned. - -At the west side of the curved wall, and at the centre of the curve, -is a wall 23 ft. long projecting towards the interior of the building. -This is 3 ft. high at its western extremity, but its summit rapidly -rises to 8 ft. in height. It has a slight curve towards the south. On -its north side is a small recess extending from base to summit, and -this is exactly similar in construction to the recesses in “_Buttress_” -or “_Recess Enclosure_” on the _Acropolis_. - -On either side of this wall, and in the angles formed by the curved -wall, are low granite cement platforms which are rounded on the front -faces. These resemble the “_blind steps_” found in all the main ruins -at Zimbabwe. - -The purpose of the erection of the curved wall might possibly have -been for solar or astronomical observations, and though this is a mere -conjecture, the following points may lend it some support:— - -(1) In close proximity to this curved wall, and on its eastern side, -was discovered the soapstone beam with carved bird on the summit—this -being the finest specimen yet discovered at Zimbabwe—also phalli and -ancient relics of the oldest type. The soapstone birds had so far been -discovered only at the _Western and Eastern Temples_ on the _Acropolis_. - -(2) The discovery under the wall débris which lay along each side of -the wall at its base of quantities of lengths of broken soapstone beams -which, though not carved, had been worked with tools, the widths of the -edges of the chisel being very plainly discernible, some sections being -beautifully rounded and polished. These are believed to have originally -decorated the summit of the wall, a suggestion supported by the shape -and markings on the bases of several beams so discovered. Soapstone -beams once fixed on the summits of walls had previously been discovered -only at the three temples. - -(3) The proximity of a small conical tower in an adjoining enclosure at -the north-eastern end of this wall. - -(4) The large raised platform formed by the looped wall, and originally -approached by steps on the west side, somewhat corresponds in position -with the _Platform_ in the _Elliptical Temple_ and at the _Western -Temple_, and with the _Balcony_ at the _Eastern Temple_. - -_Conical Tower._—This is situated in the most north-easterly enclosure -of these ruins. It is still 6 ft. 6 in. in height, but judging from the -block débris it was once much higher. At 3 ft. 6 in. above the granite -cement floor at its base it has a circumference of 18 ft. 10 in. It is -impossible to measure the circumference of its base, as a large rounded -cement step extends between it and the south wall of the enclosure. The -tower, which has a fair and noticeable batter-back, is very well built. -It has been proved to be solid. Its foundations are 6 in. below the -cement floor. There are four of these small conical towers at Zimbabwe, -two having been discovered in March, 1903. On the east side of this -tower, and built up against its east side, is a small rounded platform -3 ft. high, covered with granite cement, which is approached by two -large steps. - -_Entrances._—There are three entrances to these ruins—the north, -north-east, and east—and most probably others will be found as further -exploration work is carried on here. - -The north entrance appears to have been the main approach. This -is an intricate entrance, and one which appears to have possessed -considerable importance in the minds of the original builders. It lies -between two outer rounded walls, each 6 ft. high, which curve inwards -towards each other so as to form a passage-way about 6 ft. wide, which -is again narrowed at its southern extremity to 2 ft. 6 in. by two -rounded buttresses on either side. These buttresses have portcullis -grooves. The area opens into a small walled-in area, 10 ft. by 10 ft., -the walls being 6 ft. high, and very well and substantially built. -The floor is made of granite cement. There are three rounded walls in -this area. A buttress with a portcullis groove is in the south-western -corner of the area, but the corresponding buttress has disappeared. The -walled-in area would have enabled twenty defenders to protect the 2 ft. -6 in. wide entrance from being forced by an attacking party. The west -side of the entrance passage is carried further south by two walls, -each built upon a semi-circular plan. - -The north-east entrance opens into the enclosure which contains the -Conical Tower already described. The side walls are 5 ft. high, and 4 -ft. and 5 ft. wide at this height from the floor. The entrance is 2 ft. -4 in. wide, and including the steps it is 9 ft. long. A semi-circular -platform projects 6 ft. into the enclosure, and on it are built two -rounded buttresses with portcullis grooves. These buttresses are in an -advanced state of dilapidation. There are three steps between these -buttresses, and these lead down on to the floor of the interior. -An immense slate beam rises out of the ground immediately on the -north-east side of the exterior of the entrance. - -At present only the south side of the east entrance has been opened -out. This is 4 ft. high, and is rounded. On the inner side is a -semi-circular buttress hollow inside with an opening into it from the -south side. - -All the entrances, of which there are seven in the divisional walls, -are rounded, and most have portcullis grooves. - -At the centre of the eastern face of the curved wall is a rounded -entrance with portcullis groove, in which is built a slate beam which -stands 8 ft. above the floor. The total length of the beam is at least -11 ft. This is the most perfect specimen of all the stone lintels built -in portcullis grooves. - -_Enclosures._—Judging from sections of divisional walls, there were in -all probability no less than sixteen enclosures in these ruins. Some -were of large area, but subdivided. All the divisional walls are laid -on curved lines. The only complete enclosure is the one on the north -side, where is the Conical Tower. The wall on the south side is from 5 -ft. to 9 ft. high, on the west side 5 ft. to 10 ft., and on the north -side, which is the main outer wall of the ruins, 5 ft. This latter -wall, which is curved outwards towards the north-east, is 4 ft. wide at -5 ft. above the ground. A cement floor is laid around the tower. The -west entrance was described earlier under the heading of “_Entrances_.” - -_Buttresses._—In these ruins are numerous rounded buttresses. A large -semi-circular buttress 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, 22 ft. round the face, -9 ft. from back to front, and 12 ft. across the back, faces the east -and outer side of the centre of the curved wall, from which point the -buttress is due east at 25 ft. distance. On the west side of this -buttress is a passage with cement floor, rounded steps, and dadoes. - -_Drains._—So far as these ruins have been cleared, only two drains have -been exposed, one through a wall 5 ft. wide, which wall runs parallel -to the east side of the large curved wall, and one through the main -wall leading from the north-east enclosure. - -_Cement._—Granite cement has been extensively employed at these ruins, -both for flooring, dadoes, and steps, also for platforms in the angles -of walls, which somewhat resemble the “blind steps” in the angles of -the divisional walls of the _Elliptical Temple_. - - - MAUND RUINS - -These ruins, though not extensive, appear to have been of some -importance. They are situated at a distance of 60 yds. from the -east-north-east side of Philips Ruins, and lie almost half-way between -those ruins and the East Ruins. - -Their construction is excellent, and the walls are massive, while all -the entrances are rounded, most having possessed a pair of granite -lintel beams. Although built upon by far the lowest level of any -ruin at Zimbabwe, it is the least filled-in, either naturally or -artificially, by any native occupiers. There are very few traces of -Makalanga occupation. The granite cement floors are at a depth of 1 ft. -to 2 ft. below the surface soil within the interior. No ancient relics, -save fragments of soapstone bowls carved with chevron pattern, have -been found here. - -The most interesting points as to these ruins are:— - -(1) Two very fine rounded ends of walls, both being excellent pieces of -masonry. - -(2) Two structures facing east and west respectively, the summits -being approached by large steps, and each associated with one of the -rounded walls. - -(3) Sections of red clay walls in the gaps of the stone walls. - -The area of these ruins is 143 ft. from east to west, and 138 ft. from -north to south. There is some evidence that these ruins once occupied a -larger area. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan MAUND RUINS “Valley of Ruins” (_Lower -Section_) - -P. _Platforms_ CS. _Cement platforms_ ] - -There is only one entrance, so far discovered, through the main wall, -and this faces north. It is massive and well built, and opens into a -vestibule enclosure 15 ft. long, 9 ft. wide, and 5 ft. and 7 ft. in -height. The side walls of the entrance are 5 ft. high, the width of the -main wall is 6 ft. 6 in., the width of the passage 3 ft., but narrowed -on the inside to less than 2 ft. by two rounded buttresses with -portcullis grooves, the south one of which has almost disappeared. - -The east end of the south wall of the vestibule enclosure is one of -two beautifully rounded ends of walls before referred to. The symmetry -of the batter-back is perfect. This wall is 7 ft. high, 5 ft. wide at -base, and 3 ft. 10 in. at summit. The vestibule has a granite cement -floor. At the east end of the vestibule is one large rounded buttress -with portcullis grooves. The corresponding buttress on the south-west -side is much ruined. - -[Illustration: ROUNDED END OF WALL OF WEST SIDE OF MAUND RUINS, SHEWING -STEPS TO PLATFORM, VALLEY OF RUINS] - -[Illustration: NORTH-EAST WALL, MAUND RUINS, VALLEY OF RUINS] - -On the west side of the ruins, and immediately west of the west wall -of the vestibule wall, and built from wall to wall in the angle of the -main and vestibule wall, is a raised platform 6 ft. high approached -by four rows of stone steps once covered with granite cement. This -structure is apparently different in purpose and construction from -the “_blind steps_” found in some of the ruins at Great Zimbabwe, for -in this instance the platform must have afforded a good position for -seeing over the outer wall, and also for watching the entrance which it -overlooks. - -A similar structure is to be found on the east side of these ruins. -This also is an excellent piece of workmanship. The steps in this -instance lead from the west side of the base of the wall to its summit, -and were once covered with granite cement, portions of which still -remain. The wall is 8 ft. high, and its north end is beautifully -rounded. It is 4 ft. 6 in. wide at its base, and 3 ft. wide on the -summit. The north or rounded end of the wall, at 6 ft. above the -ground, turns on each side towards the centre of the summit, forming a -small round tower 2 ft. high. There are four steps, but it is possible -that other steps were in between each of the steps now seen. The summit -of the steps faces due east. This wall is not an outer wall. - -There appear to have been at least ten enclosures. There are eleven -divisional entrances, all rounded, of which eight have portcullis -grooves and several have rounded buttresses on the inside. Two long -granite beams and some sections of broken beams were found in most of -the entrances, but not in those in which the portcullis grooves had -been carefully built up. - -In the northern enclosures and 2 ft. under the surface were found -several large and massive cement steps laid on curved lines. - - - MIDDLE SECTION OF “THE VALLEY OF RUINS” - - RENDERS RUINS - -These are the best-defined ruins of the Middle Section of the Valley of -Ruins, are of better construction, and have walls still standing of a -fairly good height. All the other ruins in this section are almost, if -not quite, impossible to trace, and a view of them gives the impression -that they are of much later construction than the Renders Ruins. - -These ruins, which lie east and west, cover an area of 300 ft. from -east to west, and 200 ft. from north to south. They lie within 30 -yds. of the south and south-west sides of Posselt Ruins, A and B, the -intervening space, being full of outcrops of walls. On the south and -south-west sides of these ruins is the Upper Section of the Valley of -Ruins. - -The most striking features of the Renders Ruins are (1) their -complicated plan; (2) the banquette wall on the summit of the south -wall of No. 3 Enclosure; and (3) the great amount of ancient gold, -Arabian pottery and glass, and other relics discovered in No. 1 -Enclosure. - -The ruins are built upon the formation rock which slopes down from -south-west to north-east, the floors of all the enclosures being the -bed-rock itself, and this has such a steep gradient that at some points -it makes it difficult for those wearing nailed boots to ascend from the -lower to the higher portions of the ruins. - -These ruins are approached from the Mauch Ruins by a passage and steps, -also from the Motelekwe wagon-track, and by a path passing the west end -of Posselt Ruins B. The North-East Passage leading from the Elliptical -Temple is scarcely any longer an approach, as the passage walls have -in some places fallen inwards and blocked the passage. - -_No. 1 Enclosure._—This is the most easterly of the enclosures of -these ruins. It is oval in plan, being 73 ft. from east to west, and -52 ft. from north to south. The walls are substantially built, but are -constructed in the style usually found in ruins built at some distance -from any of the main ruins. The highest walls are on the west and -southern sides, and these average from 7 ft. to 9 ft. in height, 4 ft. -to 5 ft. at 5 ft. above the floor in width, and are 4 ft. wide at the -summit. The other walls are considerably dilapidated and average about -4 ft. in height. The bare formation rock forms its floor, and it slopes -considerably from south to north. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan RENDERS’ RUINS Valley of Ruins Middle -Section] - -On the rock floor the following “finds” were made: Twenty pieces of -beaten gold and gold wire, a few gold beads, amounting altogether -to 3 ozs. In the yellowish soil above the floor and at a depth of 4 -ft. Arabian glass with arabesque patterns most delicately engraved, -beautifully glazed pottery of white clay with different bevels on the -edges, and sunken designs under the glazes which are both sea-green -and a delicate shade of forget-me-not blue, also very thin china of -white clay with rich deep blue-and-gold enamel, also some minutely thin -green glass, a large soapstone bowl, a fine copper chain, and some -other pottery of excellent make and covered with green glaze, which has -the appearance of being ancient or certainly of being of very antique -character. On the upper level was found half a hundred-weight of -twisted iron wire in coils ready to be cut off in lengths for bangles. -The coils were fused together. Coils of fine brass wire similarly -fused, over 200 ivory and glass beads unrecognisable by local natives, -two pairs of double iron gongs, brass bangles, large cakes of copper, -crucibles used for smelting copper, and two hundred-weight of hoes, -axes, and chisels far superior in make to those of the Makalanga of -to-day. The local natives examined this last class of “finds” with much -wonderment. There was a total absence of articles of modern native make. - -There is overwhelming evidence that during the last two periods of -occupations of this enclosure it was most extensively occupied as a -copper and iron-smelting place. - -On the outer side of the south wall is a remarkable instance of the -silting of the soil from higher ground. The depth of soil on the south -face of the wall is at least 5 ft., and this has been washed into its -present position by the rainstorms of many years. The triangular space -formed by the wall and the sloping granite rock was thus filled in for -a length of fully 70 ft. - -There are no signs of any entrances into this enclosure except on the -north-east side, where there is a long gap in the wall. - -_No. 2 Enclosure._—This is situated due west of No. 1 Enclosure. Its -area, which is square save on the south side where it slightly rounds -outwards, is 30 ft. by 20 ft. The débris from the high east wall of No. -3 Enclosure has almost filled it up to the summit of its walls. Nothing -of any antiquarian value was found here, but the examination work was -only partial. This enclosure probably acted as a passage-way from the -North-East Passage to Nos. 1 and 5 Enclosures, and possibly towards the -Lower Section of “The Valley of Ruins.” - -_No. 3 Enclosure._—The plan of this enclosure, which lies directly west -of No. 2 Enclosure, is almost circular save that its north-east wall is -slightly squared. The area is 39 ft. from north to south, and 36 ft. -from east to west. The walls are exceedingly massive, some being 7 ft. -wide at base and 5 ft. wide on the present summit at 7 ft. from the -ground. They are obviously of better construction than any of the other -walls of these ruins. - -On the summit of the south wall are the remains of a banquette wall -still 4 ft. long and 4 ft. high, which makes the total height of the -wall at this point 11 ft. There is only one entrance, which is on the -north-west, is rounded, and has portcullis grooves. - -This enclosure has not as yet yielded any article of an antique -character, but modern native articles are practically absent. - -_No. 4 Enclosure._—This is practically an open space separating these -ruins on the south side from the ruins which are on higher ground, -and extend up to the north-east walls of the Elliptical Temple. In -area it is 150 ft. long from east to west, and averages in width from -north to south some 50 ft. It is bounded on the south by three long -semi-circular terraced walls, each about 8 ft. in height. Its floor on -the north side is of formation rock, which slopes at a steep gradient -to the north side where soil has silted in to a depth of 5 ft. On the -north-east side it is bounded by the outer faces of Enclosures Nos. 1, -2, and 3. - -The North-East Passage runs into the south-west corner of the area, -and there are steps and a passage leading down from Mauch Ruins at the -south-east corner of the area. - -In this enclosure were found some fine pottery with Arabic lettering -on the rim with beautiful designs, also a few gold beads. - -_No. 5 Enclosure._—This area is 86 ft. from north to south, and 40 ft. -from east to west. It is bounded by No. 8 Enclosure on the west, by -No. 2 Enclosure on the south, and by No. 1 Enclosure and a large open -space not yet explored on the east and north sides. The walls are still -fairly high, averaging 9 ft. on the south side, 8 ft. on the west, 7 -ft. on the north and east sides. The construction is massive, the walls -averaging 5 ft. to 6 ft. in width at base. - -The entrance on the north-east side is rounded and had portcullis -grooves. The foundations of the wall, as in all the older buildings, -form the floor of the passage. - -The only other entrance is in the south-east corner, and this leads -into No. 2 Enclosure. - -_No. 6 Enclosure._—This enclosed area is directly on the west side of -No. 3 Enclosure, and is 90 ft. from east to west, and averages 35 ft. -from north to south. Possibly it contained sub-divisions, for small -walls and traces of walls are to be found within it. The average height -of the walls, so far as they are intact, is from 6 ft. to 8 ft. The -floor of this enclosure is formed of granite rock which slopes slightly -to the north. The eastern end of the south wall runs up a steep rock -incline sideways, and is in consequence much dilapidated. - -The North-East Passage runs from No. 4 Enclosure into this area at -its south-east corner where it divides, one part going down into “The -Valley,” while the other, following along the higher ground, trends to -the west as far as No. 1 Ruins. - -The two entrances at the south-east corner of the enclosure where -the North-East Passage divides are both rounded—the entrance on the -north-east side is also rounded. - -_No. 7 Enclosure and Passage._—This enclosure, which is triangular in -form, is the most westerly of all the clearly defined areas of the -Renders Ruins. It is 28 ft. long on its western side, 18 ft. on its -north-east side, and 29 ft. on its southern side. The inner faces of -the walls average 8 ft. in height. A large entrance, evidently of some -importance, is on the west side. This is rounded and has portcullis -grooves, while the side walls are 5 ft. high and the passage is 3 ft. 6 -in. wide. Steps led from the entrance downwards on the outward side. - -A drain runs through the south wall leading from No. 6 Enclosure. - -A passage 31 ft. long with side walls 6 ft. high leads from this -enclosure into No. 8. - -_No. 8 Enclosure_ appears to be of a very chaotic and irregular -character, mounds of soil, piles of stones, and traces of -sub-divisional walls being the principal features of this area, the -surface measurements of which are 150 ft. from east to west, and 70 ft. -from north to south. Soil has been evidently brought into the enclosure -for the purpose of forming platforms on which are the remains of very -old Makalanga clay huts. - -Probably there were at least six sub-divisions of this enclosure. On -the north, north-west, west, and south-west the walls average 6 ft. -to 9 ft. in height, and about 4 ft. on the other sides. The walls are -substantial and are fairly well built in places, the more substantial -building being on the west side, where there is a prominent end of an -angular wall 15 ft. high facing the north. - -There are at least four entrances to this enclosure, viz. one on the -north side which is rounded, a second on the south side which is also -rounded and has portcullis grooves, one on the north-east side which is -angular, and the fourth on the east side, and this is rounded. - - - UPPER SECTION OF “THE VALLEY OF RUINS” - - MAUCH RUINS - -These are well-defined ruins, and they form part of the Upper Section -of “The Valley of Ruins,” and are situated on the north-east of the -north-east extremity of the chevron pattern on the Elliptical Temple at -a distance of 105 yds. They occupy the granite plateau on the edge of -steep ground overlooking the Middle and Lower Sections of “The Valley -of Ruins.” - -The plan and the excellently constructed portions of some of the walls, -and the class of relics found here in 1903, when these ruins were -partially cleared out, all point to the building having a distinct -claim to some antiquity, although of a more subsequent age than that of -some of the main ruins. - -The distinctive features of this ruin are its high walls, a passage -running parallel with the inside of the main north-east wall, a large -semi-circular buttress or platform, and the quantity of beaten gold and -gold wire discovered here. - -_Main walls._—The workmanship of some of the lengths of main walls -is excellent, but some are of inferior construction, portions being -obviously reconstructions with the joints plainly visible. There are at -least two reconstructed walls—one on the west side of the main wall, -and the other on the north-east side of the Parallel Passage. In the -inferior portions blocks of all sizes and shapes have been employed. -The best-built portions are the north-east main wall and the divisional -wall which runs north-east to south-west. All the main walls are built -upon a curved plan. - -The main walls are still high, though evidently somewhat reduced from -their original heights. The heights from the outside surface average -from 9 ft. to 12 ft., and in places the level of the summits is very -fairly maintained. From the interior surface the heights vary from 7 -ft. to 10 ft. - -The widths of the walls are evenly maintained throughout, being about -4 ft. 6 in. wide at 4 ft. above the ground, and 3 ft. to 3 ft. 6 in. -at a summit of 12 ft., the battering-back being about 1 ft. in 8 ft. -Some of the walls have been thrown out of batter, and the upper edges -overhang. - -All the ends of the walls are rounded, except in the large divisional -wall, where is an unfinished end facing north, which terminates -abruptly. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan MAUCH RUINS “Valley of Ruins” (_Upper -Section_)] - -_Interior Area._—The measurements of the interior are: 98 ft. from -east to west, and 83 ft. from north to south. The area is of a rough -oval shape. It originally contained at least three enclosures. The -soil filling-in is artificial. The elevation of the ruin precludes any -suggestion of silting in naturally. This work is believed to be that of -all local natives of some few generations past. - -_Parallel Passage._—This is 99 ft. long down its centre, and was most -probably much longer, as its extremities disappear in débris. The -north-east side wall of the passage, which is the main wall, is from -7 ft. to 9 ft. high at the eastern end, and there is a break owing to -dilapidations at 50 ft. west of this point, while near the lower or -western end the walls on either side are 7 ft. high. The north-west end -is formed by a wall 7 ft. high, a low wall, a semi-circular wall, and -boulders. On the south side, and opposite the opening in the north-east -wall, steps to a somewhat higher level can be traced, leading -southwards up from the passage, and these steps have a rounded wall on -each side. The rounded end of the north-east main wall is a fine piece -of workmanship. The passage is from 3 ft. to 4 ft. wide. - -_Entrances._—There are five entrances, and each is rounded, and all -the buttresses are also rounded. One entrance leads into the ruin on -the west side, and there are rounded buttresses on either side, which -are erected on a semi-circular platform projecting 16 ft. into the -interior. This entrance opens into a passage which was discovered by -Bent (1891), but was not opened out till 1903. A second entrance is in -the north-east wall, but on its western side only traces of the side -wall remain. A third entrance is on the east side of the building. This -is 6 ft. high on either side, and is without buttresses or portcullis -grooves. The floor of the passage is formed by the foundation walls. -This entrance leads into an outer enclosure on the eastern side. The -last entrance is between the south end of the large divisional wall -and the semi-circular buttress or platform. Possibly a buttress has -disappeared from the south side of this entrance. - -_Divisional walls._—There are two divisional walls, one being the wall -already mentioned as separating the two main enclosures. This runs -north-east from the large semi-circular buttress for 16 ft. It is 9 -ft. high and is well built, and has a drain passing through the lower -courses. The north-eastern extremity of this wall is 32 ft. from the -inside face of the main north-east wall. The other wall is 15 ft. long, -and runs out eastwards from the inside face of the main west wall. -This is 7 ft. high, but its height is reduced to 3 ft. at its eastern -extremity. It is 3 ft. wide at the surface level. - -_Drain-holes._—There are three well-constructed drains running through -walls; one passes the divisional wall which is on the eastern side -of the building, another passes through the main eastern wall into -the outer enclosure, and the third is in the east wall of the outer -enclosure. - -_Semi-circular Buttress._—This structure lies on the south side of -the ruins, and projects 16 ft. into the interior. The total length -round the face is 32 ft. It is 24 ft. across the back, and 10 ft. high -on the west, 6 ft. high on the north, and 6 ft. high on the east. It -appears to be perfectly solid, and once to have had a level surface. -Large trees have grown on its south and west sides, and have done -considerable damage to it. Two small walls are on its north-east side, -and these run towards the buttress as if they once had formed the -approach to the summit. - -_Outer Enclosure._—On the eastern side is an enclosure, but somewhat -roughly built. It is 51 ft. from north to south, and 30 ft. from east -to west at its southern end, and 19 ft. from east to west at its -northern end. This enclosure has been extensively filled in with soil -and the usual Kafir débris, among which were found two pairs of double -iron gongs. - -_West Passage._—This passage, which was discovered by Bent in 1891, -runs along the outer side of the main west wall for 60 ft. It is 3 -ft. to 4 ft. wide, and the wall on the west side of it is very much -dilapidated. From the western entrance to these ruins the passage runs -27 ft. further north, and descends some 29 ft. by means of stairs, and -then passes out between high walls on to the granite floor of _Renders -Ruins_, which are in the Middle Section of “The Valley of Ruins.” - -_General._—The position of the Mauch Ruins on their east and north-east -sides is strengthened for defensive purposes by a steep drop of about -12 ft. down on to the level occupied by the Middle Section of “The -Valley of Ruins.” This drop is formed by an almost vertical granite -glacis, which it would have been very difficult to climb. - -_Finds._—Gold wire, beaten gold, and gold beads, and portions of -sea-green glazed pottery of white clay. - - - SOUTH-EAST RUINS - -These ruins are situated at the south-eastern extremity of the Zimbabwe -Ruins’ area where the Valley of Ruins terminates on its eastern side, -and are only ten minutes’ walk from Havilah Camp. They occupy a summit -of a bare and rounded kopje, commanding most extensive views of the -country beyond Schlichter Gorge to the south and of the Arowi district -towards the east-north-east. Its position is highly strategetic, and -there is a steep descent on the south-west side into a deep gorge, down -which the stream rising on the east side of the Elliptical Temple flows -toward the Mapudzi. - -The area of well-defined walls is 140 ft. from north to south, and -120 ft. from east to west, but there are traces of walls in all -directions—on the south at 70 yds. and on the south-west at 20 yds. -distance. The formation rock crops to the present surface at many -places, and the depth of soil elsewhere is inconsiderable. - -The style of building very closely resembles that of Ridge Ruins, which -lie between the Elliptical Temple and Havilah Camp, as to which there -are considerable doubts of its being of very remote antiquity. - -The walls, the majority of which are of massive proportions, are not at -all well built, blocks of all sizes and shapes having been employed, -and there is little or no attempt to adhere to courses. The present -reduced average height of the walls is from 4 ft. to about 6 ft., but, -judging from wall débris, every wall must have originally been at least -some 7 ft. or 8 ft. in height. The walls are from 4 ft. to 5 ft. wide -at base, and 3 ft. to 4 ft. wide at their very much reduced summits. - -The plan of the building is laid on curved lines, and the only entrance -which remains intact has rounded sides. It is possible these buildings -once had six outer and inner entrances. The main entrance appears to -have been on the west side. - -[Illustration: SOUTH-EAST RUINS Zimbabwe - -_Single figures are heights of walls in feet._] - -There are about eight enclosures, and in some of these there are -remains of very old Makalanga huts, and the soil of the interior is -filled with great quantities of Kafir pottery, iron-work, iron slag, -cattle bones, and ashes. Two Kafir graves were found, but these were -not of any great age. Local natives state their own people once lived -here, but not in their time, and this is extremely probable; but they -do not think the walls were built by any Makalanga. - -On the east side, just outside the main wall, there are three sets of -_isafuba_ game-holes cut into the formation rock. Each set has four -rows of eight holes each. - -The ruins have been but partially examined at several points, but -nothing of any antique character has been found here. - - - - - CHAPTER XX - - “THE VALLEY OF RUINS” - (_Continued_) - - No. 1 Ruins—Ridge Ruins—Camp Ruins, Nos. 1 and 2. - - - NO. 1 RUINS - -These ruins, which are of an important character, lie on the north side -of the Elliptical Temple at a distance of 63 yds. from the north-west -entrance to that building, with which it is connected by a substantial -and well-constructed wall running out due north from the north-west -outer face of the main wall of the temple at 43 ft. west from the -north-west entrance and at the points [705 ft.] and [710 ft.]. - -Visitors would know this ruin as the one which lies back on the -left-hand side of the path leading from Havilah Camp to the west -entrance of the Elliptical Temple, and as the one with the tall -column-like forms of the aloes crowned with fleshy leaves which line -the summit of its walls, as also do the candelabra-shaped branches -of numerous large euphorbia trees which together impart to these -walls a pre-Raphaelite appearance peculiarly striking because of -its old-world-looking character. But though this ruin may be known -to visitors, they rarely examine its enclosures, for the internal -portions, owing to extensive excavations during past years, are most -uneven, and require some climbing over their irregular surfaces. - -Whether the age of this ruin synchronises with that of the Elliptical -Temple is for several obvious reasons open to some question, but that -it is “ancient” admits of no possible doubt. Its architecture and -construction are both inferior to those of the Elliptical Temple, and -to many ruins throughout the country which belong to the earliest type -of Zimbabwe buildings, though it must be admitted that great care is -shown in its construction. Possibly these buildings are of somewhat -later date than the Elliptical Temple, while the purpose to which -it was devoted was such as not to warrant such elaborate care being -lavished upon it as on the temples and the buildings used as residences. - -Excavators have literally turned this ruin inside out, and have -excavated whole areas to depths of 5 ft. to 7 ft. till the granite -formation was reached, and have left some of the foundations both bare -and undermined. There is no doubt that the building has thus been -completely ransacked, and yet there is nothing to show that it was -either a temple or a place where at any time gold-smelting was carried -on, there being no traces of gold furnaces, blow-pipes, crucibles, -scorifiers, or cement spattered with gold; in fact, pannings of such -soil as still remains within it has not so far shown any “traces” -or fragments of gold wire or beads and pellets of gold such as are -so frequently and abundantly found in other ruins at Zimbabwe. Nor -have any indications of copper-smelting been found here as in other -ruins. There is no suggestion in its plan that it was a temple. -Certainly there is no decorative pattern on its walls, nor are there -any monoliths, nor even fragments of what might have been monoliths. -Certainly stones said to be phalli have been found there, but a few -years ago it was the fashion in Rhodesia to style every stone of -peculiar shape a phallus. But supposing some of these objects were -undoubted phalli, these might easily have come from the Elliptical -Temple a few yards away, especially seeing that the north-west entrance -to the temple was enclosed on either hand by walls of No. 1 Ruins, -and that phalli and miniature soapstone birds have been discovered -by almost all explorers of these ruins among the débris deposited -outside all three entrances to the temple. The inner banquette walls -on either side of the north-west entrance to these ruins, as well as -the massively built outer walls, strongly suggest a fortification, -and the conglomeration of tall buttresses overlooking the Elliptical -Temple, and also “The Valley of Ruins,” rather confirms this view, -especially as the ruins contain no evidences of any industry having -been carried on by the ancients within them. Moreover, these are -the only ruins of any importance on the north and west sides of the -Elliptical Temple which could possibly have served as a fort for the -protection of that side of the temple, and its site occupies a strongly -strategetic position on the summit of sloping ground. Unless it was -a fortification, the whole flank of the area of small ruins in the -vicinity of the north entrance would have been undefended, for on the -northern and eastern sides of such area of ruins are very substantially -built forts occupying elevations of vantage. - -Sir John Willoughby states that the design of this building is very -irregular, the inner walls terminate abruptly and form only three sides -of an enclosure with floors ever varying in their relative levels, the -wall foundations are of unequal depths, and the interiors of some of -the walls are carelessly filled in with stones, this latter being a -feature absent in the earliest types of Zimbabwes, but present in later -ruins. - -All these departures from the style of construction as employed in -the Elliptical Temple, and in very many of the ruins at Zimbabwe, are -obvious to anyone on making an inspection, as also the irregularity in -the sizes of the stones of any single course, the poorer quality of -the granite, the employment of unhewn stones, and the introduction of -the angular and plumb style of building so peculiarly absent in the -Elliptical Temple and elsewhere at Zimbabwe. There are no drain-holes -in any of the walls of these ruins. - -Of old and recent Makalanga occupations of these ruins there is -ample evidence. Kafir pottery, bones, ashes, and scraps of iron are -abundant, and the clay foundations of Makalanga huts and granaries can -be seen in every enclosure on floors overlying rudely filled-in areas. - -These ruins occupy an area of 62 yds. from east to west, and 54 yds. -from north to south. The portion of the ruins in the best condition, as -well as the most important parts, are situated on the west side. The -north and east portions are the most dilapidated. The building on the -north and north-east sides is on the edge of a sharp slope down into a -valley which contains the walls of several minor ruins. - -[Illustration: N^o. 1 RUINS Zimbabwe] - -The main or outer wall of these ruins runs for 185 ft. from the west -entrance on the west side of the building round in a curve outwards -towards the west-north-west, north, and north-east. There are three -short gaps in the northern portion of the wall. On the whole, the -greater portion of the wall is still in a fairly good condition, -it being from 12 ft. to 15 ft. high above the outside level of the -bed-rock on which its foundations are laid. The wall is practically -plumb as compared with the main wall of the Elliptical Temple, besides -being angular at the entrances. It is 4 ft. wide at 6 ft. above the -outside level, but the north-western side is slightly wider. The wall, -though substantially constructed, does not show great evenness of -courses, while the sizes of the blocks vary considerably. Near the west -entrance it is very poorly built, while the wall on the opposite side -of the passage is excellently constructed. Possibly this indifferently -built portion was repaired at a much later date. It is on this wall -that grew the tall aloes and large euphorbia trees, some of which have -recently been removed. The north and north-east portions of the wall, -being built upon the edge of the declivity, tend to give the wall -a more imposing appearance, while its elevated position commands a -splendid view of “The Valley of Ruins.” The large mound on the north -side of the north-west entrance is soil débris brought by explorers -from the interior of the ruins in 1892. - -Three entrances pass through this wall, on the west, north-west, and -north sides. - -The west entrance is 2 ft. 6 in. to 3 ft. wide, the west side wall -being 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, and the east side 5 ft. to 7 ft. high. The -entrance walls are plumb and angular. There are no buttresses on either -side, and no portcullis groves. The entrance leads into Enclosure A, -but there are traces of a wall which runs across the inside at a short -distance, and might have been that of a sort of vestibule to Enclosure -A. Immediately on the outside of this entrance there is a passage -between the outer face of the main wall on the east side and the east -wall of Enclosures W X Y Z on the west side, and this passage, which is -46 ft. long, 3 ft. 6 in. wide and has the west side wall 5 ft. high, -actually forms part of the entrance. At 31 ft. from the north end of -the passage there is one side of a rounded entrance into Enclosure Y. -There are no traces of steps having been built here. - -The north-west entrance was evidently the main entrance. It is the -largest and best-constructed of all these entrances. It has a banquette -wall on either hand in the interior, also a strongly built vestibule -with entrances into Enclosures C and D, and opposite the entrance on -the outside are walls of other ruins. - -It is 3 ft. 6 in. wide, 7 ft. long, and the walls on either side are -only 6 ft. high, but they rise sharply to the level of the general line -of summit of the wall. Three feet of the length of the entrance on the -east side are formed by the end of the banquette wall, but on the west -side the banquette wall is only about 16 in. wide. The entrance is -angular and plumb and has portcullis grooves. This is the only instance -so far discovered where a completely angular entrance has portcullis -grooves, also the only instance where the main or, indeed, any outer -entrance has such grooves, except the north entrance to this ruin, -which is partly angular and partly rounded. There is no indication that -this entrance was once covered in. - -Immediately on the inside of this entrance is a small enclosure which -served as a vestibule and as an approach to enclosures C and D. This is -9 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, and the walls are from 5 ft. to 8 ft. above the -paved floor which was destroyed some years ago. At the west end there -is a passage 4 ft. 4 in. long and 2 ft. 10 in. wide with angular sides -leading into Enclosure C, the walls on either side being 4 ft. to 5 ft. -high. At the east end of this vestibule is a passage 9 ft. long and 2 -ft. 10 in. wide leading to Enclosure D, the walls on either side being -5 ft. to 7 ft. high. - -The north entrance opens into Enclosure D at its north-east corner. It -is angular on the outside but rounded on the inside. It is 2 ft. 10 -in. wide, 4 ft. 6 in. long, and the walls on either side are now only -from 3 ft. to 5 ft. high. There are portcullis grooves in the rounded -portions of the side walls. The entrance does not pass through the wall -at right angles, but obliquely towards the north, which the opening -faces. A wall runs north for 15 ft. from the east outer side of the -entrance, but its extremity terminates in block débris. In the angle -of the two walls at the outer foot of the entrance are traces of steps -leading for a few feet down the declivity along the west side of the -projecting wall. - -The banquette wall rounds round the inside face of the main wall -on either side of the north-east or main entrance, and forms a -terrace behind it which would afford a good view over the main wall. -Practically the main wall and the banquette wall are one and the same -structure at certain points, since the stones of the main wall project -into the banquette; but at other points they are independent of each -other, and at these points the space between the two structures is -filled in with stones to the level of the summit of the banquette. - -The eastern length of banquette starts from the east side of the -north-west entrance and runs along the inside of the main wall into -Enclosure D for a length of 17 ft., the summit being 6 ft. high -and 3 ft. 6 in. wide at the entrance and 5 ft. wide at its eastern -extremity. This length of banquette cannot be described as of excellent -workmanship. - -The western length of banquette is 48 ft. long and 4 ft. to 8 ft. -high, and is 1 ft. wide at the north-west entrance, but widens out to -11 ft. at the west end, where it connects with the “conglomeration of -buttresses,” all rounded, which overlook every part of this ruin. The -workmanship in this length of banquette is somewhat inferior. - -There are at least ten enclosures, and these, for the purposes of this -description, are lettered from A to H or named. On the west side there -are four outer enclosures, and these are lettered W to Z. - -_Enclosure A._—The area of this enclosure is 105 ft. from north to -south, its longest points, and 51 ft. from east to west, its widest -points. It has four entrances. - -The north-west entrance is the west entrance to these ruins, and has -already been described. - -The south-west entrance is approached by an outer passage on this -side, but the actual entrance, owing to the amount of débris, can only -be traced, the débris being level with the summits of the walls on -either side. These walls are from 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, 3 ft. 6 in. on -their present summits, and are fairly well built. The passage walls -are 8 ft. apart for a length of 64 ft. from this enclosure towards the -south-west, at which point they curve off in different directions, -the west side wall running a further 51 ft. towards the west, with -traces of continuation. The east side wall curves round towards the -south-south-east for 105 ft., including gaps, and at its extremity -it becomes lost in débris, but in all probability, judging by recent -clearing away of débris and also by excavations, it ran up to the west -outer face of the Elliptical Temple. There are no signs of any entrance -passing through these side walls. The workmanship of both walls is -fairly good. - -The north-east entrance is from Enclosure E, which lies on the -north-east side. This was a wide entrance with rounded sides, and -appears to have been built at a higher level than the floor of -Enclosure A, but the entrance and the steps leading up to it are now -almost lost in débris. - -The east entrance is from Enclosure B. This was rounded, but is now -filled in to the top by wall débris. - -The floor of this enclosure is formed by bed-rock. The highest parts of -the walls are as follows: south side, 4 ft.; east side, 7 ft.; north -side, 14 ft.; and west side, 5 ft. to 8 ft. - -_Enclosure B._—The area of this enclosure, which lies at the south-east -side of Enclosure A, is 49 ft. from north to south and 23 ft. from east -to west. This enclosure has two entrances, the one on the west side -being the east entrance to Enclosure A, while the one on the north -side is from a passage which connects this enclosure with Enclosure F. -Both entrances are rounded. This enclosure appears to have been cleared -out to below the levels of the bottom of the foundations. - -The passage connecting Enclosures B and F runs from south-west to -north-east. Including the two entrances, it is 23 ft. long, and 3 ft. -wide at the south-west end, and 5 ft. wide at the north-east end. The -side walls, which are very substantial, are still 8 ft. high. The -entrance from this passage into Enclosure F is formed by two large -rounded buttresses with portcullis grooves. - -_Enclosure C._—This enclosure is on the west side of the ruins, and -is on the south side of the main and north-west entrance to these -ruins, and north of Enclosure A, and is on the inner side of the west -portion of the main wall. Its length from north to south is 43 ft., -and its width from east to west 17 ft. The western length of banquette -wall forms its west side, and the face of this wall is poorly built. -The south wall must be considered as badly built. On its south and -south-east sides is the “conglomeration of buttresses,” the character -of which can better be seen by glancing at the accompanying plan. The -buttresses are almost circular, and have their centres filled with -stones, thrown in most promiscuously. The east wall is well built; -still it is inferior to any of the main walls of the Elliptical Temple. -Through this wall is an aperture 2 ft. wide and with side walls 3 ft. -high. The floor of this enclosure has been cleared away in places, -showing the foundations of the walls. - -_Enclosure D._—This enclosure is on the inner side of the north portion -of the main wall, and east of the north-west entrance to these ruins -and of the Entrance Enclosure. - -The area of this enclosure is 41 ft. from north to south, and 45 ft. -from east to west. It is bounded on the north, west, and south sides by -the banquette and main walls for 23 ft., on the west by the Entrance -Enclosure for 5 ft., and by Enclosure EE for 18 ft., on the south by -a wall dividing it from Enclosure E for 10 ft., but the rest of the -southern boundary wall for 12 ft. is now only débris, and in places can -barely be traced. On the east side is a wall 15 ft. long, 4 ft. high, 2 -ft. 10 in. wide on present summit, which separates this enclosure from -Enclosure H; the rest of the eastern boundary is lost in débris. - -From the north inner side of the main wall at 20 ft. from the -north-west corner of this enclosure there is a wall 4 ft. high -projecting southwards into the enclosure for 5 ft., and this has an -angular end. - -A wall 6 ft. long, forming part of the passage from the north-west -entrance, projects into this enclosure. Judging by the arrangement of -débris in the space between this wall and the main wall, it is very -probable that there were steps here leading up to the summit of the -banquette wall. - -At the eastern corner of this enclosure is the north entrance to these -ruins. This has already been described. - -_Enclosure EE._—This enclosure is bounded on the north by Enclosure -D, on the north-west by Entrance Enclosure, on the west by Enclosure -C, and on the south by Enclosure E. Its area is 26 ft. from north to -south, and 27 ft. from east to west. - -The floor of the south-west corner was once at a higher level than that -of the rest of the enclosure, and to this originally raised portion -there are remains of a narrow-rounded entrance on the south side, now -filled up with débris, from Enclosure E. There are traces of steps up -to this raised entrance. The floor of the aperture in the wall on the -east side of Enclosure C appears to have been on the level of this -raised floor. - -_Enclosure E._—This lies directly to the south of Enclosure EE. Its -area is 49 ft. from north to south, and 48 ft. from east to west. It -is bounded on the west for 49 ft. by a wall and the “conglomeration -of buttresses” already mentioned, which respectively separates it from -Enclosures A and C; on the south for 45 ft. by Enclosures B and the -passage which connects Enclosures B and F; on the east for 36 ft. by -a wall and a large rounded buttress, which is one of the prominent -features of these ruins; the rest of the east boundary cannot be -traced, owing to débris piles; lastly, on the north by Enclosures EE -and D. - -There are still two entrances remaining—one from Enclosure A and the -other from Enclosure C. Both are approached from the enclosure by -steps, now ruined but traceable, leading up either side of the central -buttress of the “conglomeration of buttresses.” - -The large buttress on the east side is semi-circular, the centre of -its face is towards the west. It is 6 ft. high, 30 ft. round its face, -and is fairly well built, it being a wall with its internal portion -promiscuously thrown in till its summit was levelled throughout. - -On the south-west are two rounded buttresses with their faces towards -the east and west respectively. - -The enclosure contains piles of excavators’ soil débris of some age. - -_Enclosure F._—This is situated on the east side of Enclosure E, and -lies between that enclosure and Enclosure G. Its area is roughly -circular, it being 37 ft. from north to south, and 42 ft. from east to -west. Its southern boundary is formed for 37 ft. by the outer south -wall of these ruins, which wall is 5 ft. high and 4 ft. wide on its -present very reduced summit. There is a gap of 12 ft. on its north-west -side, where there are now only traces of a wall. - -The enclosure has two entrances now remaining—the entrance from the -passage leading from Enclosure B, which has already been described, -and an entrance through the outer south wall. This entrance which -is rounded is 2 ft. 6 in. wide, the side walls are 3 ft. high, and -there are portcullis grooves on either hand, and these have been -deliberately built up. This enclosure resembles the other portions of -these ruins with regard to large piles of soil débris on its area. - -_Enclosure G._—This is the most easterly enclosure in these ruins. It -is bounded on the south by Enclosure F, on the west by Enclosure H, -and on the north and east by the outer east wall of the ruins, which -wall is 8 ft. high and 3 ft. 6 in. wide on its present summit. Its -area is 35 ft. from east to west, and 47 ft. from north to south. It -possessed three entrances, and these were on its west, north, and east -sides. The west entrance is barely distinguishable, but has traces of -its having been angular. The north entrance has rounded sides, and -leads from Enclosure H, a wall 22 ft. long and 5 ft. high forming a -division between the two enclosures. The enclosure has been filled in -with débris up to the level of this wall and overlooks the east end of -Enclosure H, which here is very much lower. The east entrance through -the outer wall is rounded on its south side, but the north side has -disappeared. - -_Enclosure H._—This lies on the inner side of the north and north-east -portions of the main wall, which here is considerably broken. It is -bounded on the west by Enclosure D, on the south by Enclosures E and -F, and on the east by Enclosure G. Most probably there was an entrance -between the main wall on the east side and Enclosure G, and this led -to the network of ruins which are built up against this side of No. 1 -Ruins and extend for some 300 yds. towards the east. The area of this -enclosure is 53 ft. from east to west, and 31 ft. from north to south. -The western end of this enclosure is considerably higher than the -eastern end. - -_Outer enclosures._—Four enclosures lie to the west of the south-west -extremity of the main wall, and are separated from it by the passage -which leads to the west entrance of these ruins, and connects these -enclosures with Enclosure A. - -These enclosures adjoin one another in a single line broadways from -south to north, there being a common wall for all of them on their west -sides. These enclosures are lettered W to Z, commencing at the south -end. - -Their areas are as follows:— - - W 25 ft. N. to S., and 20 ft. E. to W. - X 15 ft. 〃 26 ft. 〃 - Y 12 ft. 〃 22 ft. 〃 - Z 16 ft. 〃 19 ft. 〃 - - - RIDGE RUINS - -These ruins are situated on the highest point of the bare granite ridge -which extends from the north-west of the _Elliptical Temple_ towards -the north-west, and curves towards the north, where it terminates at -_Havilah Camp_. - -The southern extremity of these ruins is 140 yds. from the north-west -side of the _Elliptical Temple_ and 100 yds. west of _No. 1 Ruins_. The -path from the outspan and camp to the water springs and the _Elliptical -Temple_ passes close to its west side, while another path to the -_Temple_ passes close to its east side. The _Outer Defence Wall_, -which runs from the west side of the _Temple_ round towards the west, -north-west, and north of the _Acropolis Hill_, runs parallel to the -west side of these ruins at a distance of 96 ft. A number of euphorbia -trees and aloes line its walls, which are now comparatively low, the -highest parts being about 9 ft. - -The whale-back granite glacis on which these ruins are built dips -sharply from immediately outside the walls all round these ruins, -except at the south-east end, which is here only slightly higher than -the present ground level outside the _Elliptical Temple_. Except for -vegetable mould at a few points, the whole of the floors of these ruins -are formed by the formation rock. - -The plan of these ruins shows an oval area, with a long and wide outer -passage running along its east side for 246 ft. from the north to the -south of the oval enclosure, this passage having its southern extremity -well protected by traverses and buttressed entrances. - -These ruins, though built of irregularly sized stones, have the faces -of the walls which still remain remarkably true and even, so much so -that experienced builders after examining the walls state that with -such irregularly sized stones it would be most difficult to erect -walls with faces as true as those of these ruins. There appears to -be no similarity whatever between the second-period architecture and -construction and these ruins, except that the filling-in of the walls -between their faces is more promiscuous than is the case with walls -of first-period architecture and construction. Its entrances and -buttresses are all rounded, and the walls have a fair batter-back, -there being no plumb wall present. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan RIDGE RUINS Zimbabwe.] - -It would be difficult to state the purpose these ruins were intended to -serve, but seeing they occupy the most westerly position of the main -ruins’ area, and that they are built on a commanding and strategetic -position, it might be inferred, if their claim to any great antiquity -were established, that their purpose was that of a fort, defending -not only the westerly side of the main ruins’ area, but also part of -a main line of communication, of which the Parallel Passage formed -a section, between the _Elliptical Temple_ and the west end of the -_Acropolis Hill_. This suggestion is, in fact, apparently supported by -the numerous traverses in the passage, traces of which can still be -noticed, and by the fact that the oval enclosure overlooks the passage -throughout its length. But, as stated before, these ruins cannot at -present be classed as _ancient_, though they are undoubtedly of great -age. - -_Oval Enclosure._—The area of the oval enclosure is 170 ft. from north -to south, and 86 ft. from east to west. These are its longest and its -widest points. The floor is formed by comparatively level surfaces of -granite rock. There is very little soil within the enclosure, and this -consists of black mould, decomposed cement, and native clay. The walls -still standing average some 4 ft. to 7 ft. in height, and are about 3 -ft. 6 in. wide on their present reduced summits, and are battered-back. -Plumb and angular walls are absent. The east wall is at one point -carried over a large boulder 8 ft. high, and a few courses of blocks on -the summit still remain. The north wall is considerably dilapidated, -and the débris of this portion lies on the face of the declivity. -The external faces of the walls are in a much better condition than -the inner faces, for trees and shrubs which could not grow on the -outer granite slopes manage to thrive in the very scanty soil of the -interior. This enclosure has been used by the natives as a cattle -kraal. Though cattle could not climb into the enclosure from outside, -they no doubt damaged the inside faces of the walls by attempting to -get outside from over the walls. The material for the stone foundations -of circular huts of no very great age, which are to be seen in the -enclosure, was very probably taken from the inside faces of the walls. - -These Makalanga stone foundations, which are identical with those found -in old Makalanga kraals, occupy the following positions. At 60 ft. -from the south end and 12 ft. from the west side, foundations of stone -blocks 19 ft. in diameter. At 110 ft. from south end and almost facing -the west entrance, stone foundations of hut 22 ft. in diameter. At 8 -ft. from north end foundation blocks disarranged and exact measurement -impossible. At 60 ft. from south end and 10 ft. from east side is -another foundation, but here again the blocks have become considerably -disturbed. - -This enclosure has two entrances, and these are on the south and west -sides respectively. The south entrance is comparatively intact, but the -west entrance is buried in wall débris and can only be traced on one -side. Both are rounded. The south entrance walls are 3 ft. 6 in. high, -the passage is 2 ft. wide and 7 ft. long, and there are portcullis -grooves. The north side of the west entrance is formed by a large -boulder 6 ft. high. - -There is no trace of ornamentation on the walls, but if it ever -existed, the walls having become so reduced, it must have disappeared. -No article was found for which the slightest antiquity could be -claimed, all the finds being obviously of native make, though somewhat -superior to their make of to-day. - -_Parallel Passage._—Roughly speaking, the passage throughout its length -of 246 ft. from north to south runs parallel with the east wall of -the oval enclosure and follows it round in its curves, but narrowing -towards its southern extremity. There is no entrance from the passage -to the oval enclosure except at the south end. At the north end the -passage is 47 ft. wide, and the formation rock forms the floor; at -40 ft. further south the passage is 36 ft. wide; at 80 ft. from the -north end 22 ft. wide; at 160 ft., 19 ft. wide; at 190 ft., 13 ft. -wide, which width is maintained as far as the southern extremity. The -heights of the outer wall vary from 5 ft. to 7 ft., the best-preserved -lengths being near the southern end, where a pair of traverses with -rounded ends stand at a few feet north of the south entrance to the -passage. This entrance has rounded sides. - -A passage crosses from east to west at the southern extremity, and in -it are three entrances with rounded sides. Opposite the south face -of the southern extremity of the passage, and at 6 ft. distance is -an independent screen wall, 16 ft. long and 5 ft. high, covering the -approach to the entrance from the south. At several points in the -parallel passage there are distinct traces of traverses. - -The new path from _Havilah Camp_ to the _Elliptical Temple_ now runs -through the parallel passage of these ruins. - - - CAMP RUINS NO. 1. - -Camp Ruins Nos. 1 and 2 lie north and south respectively of the -Shangani Grave, which separates them, the huts of the camp being built -on the north and wrest sides and within a few feet of the remains of -Camp Ruins No. 1, which is Sir John Willoughby’s No. 3 Ruins in his -_Further Excavations at Zimbabye_, 1892. - -Sir John describes this ruin as follows:— - - “Previous to my arrival, the only trace of ruins here was one - small stone buttress on the eastern side. My original intention - was to find any wall foundations that might exist, and then to - cross-cut right through the mound at their level from east to - west, and from north to south. But I was deterred from carrying - this out, because as the work proceeded, traces of cement - floors at different levels were discovered. By starting low - down the mound, I came upon a wall, varying in height from 4 - ft. to 6 ft., which encircled it. The original height of this - wall can only be estimated by comparing the existing structure - with the fallen débris which was buried by an accumulation of - soil. At the foot of this wall, and on the outside, I found - many specimens of arrow-heads, Kafir pottery, bracelets, and - necklaces of iron and copper. I also found something which may - perhaps prove to be an object of special interest. This was a - piece of copper about 6 in. in length and a quarter of an inch - thick, covered with a green substance (whether enamel, paint, - or lacquer, I am unable to determine), and inlaid with one of - the triangular Zimbabwe designs. It was buried 5 ft. below - the surface, almost in contact with the east side of the wall - itself. - -[Illustration: CAMP RUINS N^o. 1. - -—Zimbabwe—] - - “I also discovered a small cave under a big rock that - culminates in the highest point of the mound, but the only - object of interest here found, besides bits of coarse pottery, - was a piece of crystal or glass. On driving into the mound - through a somewhat broken entrance in the inside wall of the - west side, I was much puzzled by striking a level cement floor - some 4 ft. above the wall foundations, and on following this - level I came upon a second floor about 2 ft. above the first. - It would therefore seem that originally there were a series of - cement terraces, one above the other, culminating in a point - of observation on the south side on the summit of a large - rock, or that different occupants at varying dates had made - new floors. It was near this rock that I came upon one of the - few pieces of masonry inside the other wall, and that only - very fragmentary in character. In following the outside wall - on its inner face, I found it varied in width between 2 ft. 6 - in. and 4 ft., and that its foundations also varied much in - depth. In the cutting thus made I came upon three small furnace - holes close together on a level with the top of the wall as it - now stands, the foundations of which increased in depth as I - proceeded, and disclosed here and there what appeared to be an - extensive layer of ashes with the bones and teeth of animals. A - notable peculiarity in this mound is the variety of stratified - soil with folding concave towards the centre. The surface soil - is more or less black; then comes a bright red clay divided by - a broad yellow streak, and below this a dash of yellow, with - here and there a vein of decomposed sandstone or other rocky - substance. During this excavation I was not very successful in - finds, which were only represented by three pieces of sea-green - china, one of which was lying in the solid red clay below the - surface, and 8 ft. to 10 ft. into the side of the mound, and - two dull green porcelain beads, found 7 ft. deep and near its - centre. Taking into consideration the ash beds and furnace - holes already referred to, I feel justified in suggesting that - once a workshop was here the scene of useful activity, and - at that time surrounded by an irregular wall for protective - purposes, with a point of outlook to guard against surprise, - such as the big rock with the summit would represent.” - -As the author resided actually within Camp Ruins for fully two years -(1902–4), very frequent opportunities of thoroughly examining the walls -have presented themselves, the result being that it is now ascertained -that these ruins as seen to-day can be shown to be not ancient but of -a some very old Makalanga period. The furnace holes alluded to have -been used for iron-smelting, and to the depth of 11 ft. no single -article approaching an antique or even mediæval character has been -found within or near its walls. The brass wire bangles found at depth -still have their grass, hair, or fibre intact. Garden hoes, assegai -heads, and coarse pottery of ordinary Kafir make are here found in -abundance. The green pottery beads are found in almost every ruin at -Zimbabwe, and never at lower depth than the yellow soil which lies -immediately under the black vegetable mould on the floors of all the -ruins. Certainly, the present natives do not know this class of beads. -That this building, as suggested by Sir John Willoughby, was once a -workshop is obvious from the quantities of iron slag and ashes and -burnt clay floors and iron furnaces found in the vicinity. The bones -of animals are mainly those of buck of all kinds. The construction of -the walls precludes any suggestion that they could have been standing -very many centuries, certainly not extending back to any period which -could, even by long inference, be considered “ancient.” The workmanship -is decidedly poorer than that shown in modern Kafir buildings in the -district. - -But while this ruin, as seen to-day, may not itself be ancient, there -is some evidence that the ancients must have fortified this knoll; -and when we consider its strategetic position on the granite ridge, -extending from the south-west foot of the Acropolis Hill and the -Elliptical Temple, it becomes highly probable that later people have -utilised the material of some older buildings once occupying this -position in the erection of their poorer structures. Foundations of -walls surround the knoll at distances of some fifty and one hundred -yards from these ruins, and these show a fair claim to be recognised as -ancient, or, at any rate, as older than the walls on the summit. The -“cement” mentioned by Sir John is common soil _daga_ (clay), similar to -that found in old Makalanga huts and floors. - -The ruin crowning the knoll is roughly circular, with a diameter of -about 100 ft., with walls varying in height from 4 ft. to 6 ft. The -accompanying plan, with explanatory notes, kindly lent to the author -by Sir John Willoughby, shows the character of this ruin. The “finds” -made here in 1902–3 are identical with those discovered by Sir John -Willoughby. - - - CAMP RUIN No. 2 - -This ruin lies 50 ft. south of Camp Ruins No. 1, and is on the same -knoll, the two being separated from each other by the Shangani -graveyard. - -[Illustration: CAMP RUINS N^o. 2 - -—Zimbabwe—] - -Sir John Willoughby writes:— - -“I carefully attacked Ruin No. 2, but with a disappointing result. It -merely appears to be an enclosure formed by an irregular outside wall, -varying in thickness and in the depth of its foundations. In tracing -this wall, the bed-rock was occasionally exposed at a depth of 3 ft. -The only ‘finds’ here were two small pieces of sea-green china, one -small piece of white china, a few Kafir arrow-heads, whorls of poor -make, two fragments of pottery having a kind of basket design, and a -copper or brass clasp or fastening, which probably formed part of a box -of modern date.” - -This ruin has recently been re-examined with similarly disappointing -result, and the remarks made with regard to No. 1 Ruin apply equally -to this ruin. Clay foundations and floors of old Kafir huts fill the -interior at different levels. Probably in the most ancient period, long -before the present structures were erected, one large ruin occupied the -site of both Nos. 1 and 2 Ruins, and encircled and crowned the knoll, -for judging from very old foundations, walls surrounded the knoll. At -least there were two such walls, one being within and higher than the -other. - - - - - CHAPTER XXI - - RUINS NEAR ZIMBABWE - - East Ruins—Other Ruins within the Zimbabwe Ruins’ Area. - - - EAST RUINS - -These ruins lie 20 yds. to the south of the Motelekwe Road at 550 yds. -east of Havilah Camp, and face the east end of the Acropolis Hill at a -distance of 300 yds. south. - -They occupy a rise overlooking the Valley of Ruins, and are built -upon an open granite glacis which originally formed its floor. Their -elevated and strategetic position at once claim the attention of -visitors. These ruins have always been written and spoken of as being -a fort for the defence of the east side of the Valley of Ruins, and, -in fact, for all the ruins of the lower Zimbabwe group, including the -Elliptical Temple, and especially for the eastern end of the South-East -Ancient Ascent to the Acropolis. Judging from the contour of the -country round about, the only possible line the ancient road from the -east and the coast could have taken must have passed within a few yards -of this ruin. - -The view from East Ruins towards the east is most extensive and -picturesque, for the land slopes on that side for over two miles -towards the Beroma Range and the valley of the Motelekwe, while in the -hollow are the Chipo-popo and Mapudzi rivers. Opposite are the peculiar -and romantic columns of granite near Chenga’s kraal. - -For the purposes of defence these ruins are ideally situated. On the -south side they are protected by a steep declivity of some 40 ft. into -the valley, and down this the original builders and later occupiers -have shot their débris in great quantities. The space between the ruin -and the declivity, some 25 yds. in width and 100 ft. in length, is -covered with short lengths of walls and wall débris. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan - -EAST RUINS Motelekwe Road Great Zimbabwe - -_Single figures are heights of walls in feet._] - -The area covered by these ruins is 140 ft. from north to south, and 93 -ft. from east to west. It is most probable that on the south and east -sides there were other enclosures. - -The walls on the north, west, and south are fairly well built and -massive, and are still some 8 ft. to 10 ft. in height, and average 3 -ft. 6 in. to 4 ft. width of summit at those heights. The walls on the -south-east and east average a height of from 4 ft. to 7 ft., while the -divisional walls which remain have a reduced height of 4 ft. and 5 ft., -and these latter are also substantially constructed. - -There are four well-defined enclosures, the two on the west side being -the most perfect. The northern enclosure had once been subdivided into -at least six separate compartments. - -Both in plan and construction these ruins excel most of the minor -ruins, including No. 1 Ruins, and many walls on the Acropolis. The -curved lines of the walls on the northern and southern sides are bold -and striking, and well and exactly carried out. Their solidity is very -noticeable, especially on both outer and inner faces. Not only are the -courses in these walls fairly even, but the blocks are well-sized and -are of a good quality of granite. In some portions of the walls the -workmanship is of an inferior character. - -But, whatever the style of construction may be, the faces of the walls -are beautifully even from base to summit and also lengthways, for -placing one’s eye close up against the wall and glancing along an area -of wall-face, there is hardly to be seen half an inch of front of block -protruding in front of its neighbours. This, of course, does not apply -to the batter-back, which is only that of an average wall at Zimbabwe. -The impression gained on viewing these massive walls, which occupy such -an excellently strategetic position, is that the original builders -intended the building to be used for some important purpose. - -The northern enclosure is 60 ft. from north to south, and 67 ft. -from east to west. The south-west enclosure is 61 ft. from north to -south, and 51 ft. from east to west. The eastern enclosure is 55 ft. -from north to south, and 22 ft. from east to west. The south-eastern -enclosure, which is rather rudely constructed, and the walls of which -are very considerably dilapidated, is 20 ft. from north to south, and -80 ft. from east to west. - -There are three entrances through the outer walls, and these are on the -west, south, and east, and all are rounded; two have buttresses, one -has portcullis grooves, and the foundation forms the passage floor in -each case. Two divisional entrances now only remain, and these are also -rounded. - -Immediately inside the west entrance and on the north side is what -appears to have been a raised platform, facing west, about 4 ft. above -the original floor. This may have an area of 15 ft. from north to -south by 12 ft. from east to west, but the artificial filling-in of -the ruin with soil has raised the interior surface to the level of -this platform. Probably, as at other ruins at Zimbabwe with identical -platforms in corresponding positions, this afforded a look-out -overlooking the entrance. On the eastern side of these ruins there is a -similar but smaller structure which may have answered the same purpose. - -In the eastern enclosure and on the east face of the west wall is a -recess starting upwards from the ground. This is 3 ft. high, 1 ft. 10 -in. wide, and the blocks on each side respectively are flush-edged with -each other. The recess goes back about the length of two blocks (see -_Architecture_—_Blind Recesses_). - -These ruins have been artificially filled in with soil to a depth of 3 -ft. to 5 ft. by native occupiers of a comparatively late date, for the -soil on the surface and downwards to the bottom of the filling-in is -thick with old native pottery and the broken-up remains of Kafir huts. - -Although almost every relic-hunter seems to have paid attention -to these ruins, nothing of any antique value has been found here. -Probably when the original occupiers left the granite floors were -still exposed, and any objects found there may have been removed long -before the filling-in took place. So far, there is no evidence that any -industry—whether of ancient, mediæval, or modern occupiers—has ever -been carried on in this building. - - - OTHER RUINS WITHIN THE ZIMBABWE RUINS’ AREA - -_Bentberg (Matusu)._—This kopje, which is 240 ft. above the threshold -of the West Entrance to the Elliptical Temple, lies immediately south -and south-west of the temple. Only 200 yds. separate the building from -the foot of the hill. Here are many signs of very old occupations in -the form of ruined terrace walls apparently of the Zimbabwe style, but -of a very late period. The local Makalanga state that though their -predecessors of the same race have had kraals on this hill, the terrace -walls are not of any Makalanga construction; and this appears to be -obvious. Further, though Makalanga pottery is abundant, yet there -can be found both pottery and cement of a very superior quality and -make; and such are repudiated by the natives as having been made by -Amangwa, Makalanga, or Barotse. Great quantities of quartz broken into -very small splinters are to be found in large areas on the hill. The -nearest quartz reefs are six miles west of Zimbabwe. The older remains -of terraces—many buried in silted soil—are to be found on the north -side of the hill, but traces of walls can be met with extending almost -to the summit and round the western flank. It is impossible to imagine -that the ancients did not in some manner occupy the hill, as otherwise -the Elliptical Temple would have been exposed on its south side without -any defences. The old Barotse had a kraal at the foot of the north side -of the hill just above the spot where are still the traces of Bent’s -camp. - -_Rusivanga Kopje._—This hill (190 ft.) rises from the Zimbabwe Valley -at some 300 yds. west of Havilah Camp. It is directly on the right of -the road from Victoria to Zimbabwe at about a third of a mile from -the main ruins, the road passing between it and Makuma Kopje on which -is Mogabe’s kraal. The northern and eastern faces of this hill show -in places from base to summit abundant evidence of occupations by -ancients and also by very old Makalanga and Barotse. The remains of -walls are in most instances of inferior construction, though at some -points the courses of excellently built wall can be traced. There are -also rudely built ramparts and enclosure walls of some later period. On -the summit of the hill was once a fort. Fragments of soapstone, slate, -quartz, and ironstone are to be found, also large stone-crushers, some -excellent pottery, and cement work of superior quality. At one point -is a cement wall carried across the top of a boulder. There are stone -foundations of Makalanga huts which are circular and lined with cement, -and winnowing floors with raised edges. On the eastern side of the -hill two sets of _isafuba_ game-holes have been cut into the surface -of the granite rock. Each of these has thirty-six holes. On the west -side and near the summit there are at least thirty different sets of -game-holes cut into the granite, the holes of the sets varying in size. -On the open granite areas on the hill are several places where deep -depressions have been worn into the rock, evidently by the sharpening -of tools or by grinding stones. - -_Ruin on Bingura’s Path._—This is located on the left-hand side of the -path leading to Bingura’s kraal at about half a mile from the camp. -Only its south-east wall is now standing, but its outlines can be -traced by piles of blocks on all other sides. The area covered is about -half an acre. The wall is well and substantially built, and is still 6 -ft. high. This appears to be of very old construction. There have been -no important “finds” made here, the ruin not having yet been examined. -It occupies a strategetic position on slightly raised ground in the -valley between the Bentberg and Rusivanga. - - - RUIN NEAR CHENGA’S KRAAL - -This is situated one mile and a quarter east of Havilah Camp, and is -the most easterly ruin of the Zimbabwe group. It stands upon a low -ledge on the west side of the Beroma Range, and is a quarter of a mile -west of Chenga’s kraal, and directly overlooks the Mapudzi stream, -which flows at about 60 ft. immediately below the west face of the -ruin. The position is strategetic and affords a view over several -valleys. The area covered by walls and stone débris is fully an acre -and a half, but the actual walls now standing in any recognisable form -of plan only cover 100 ft. by 80 ft. - -A cluster of large boulders has been utilised, and over these and -between them the walls have been erected, the interior being filled -up with earth almost up to the summits of the walls by some later -occupiers. On clearing this foreign soil from the interior faces -of the walls, two buried entrances, both rounded, were discovered, -and it was then possible to prepare a plan of such of the walls as -were so cleared. Nothing of any antique value was found during these -operations, all the “finds,” which were not numerous, being of old -native articles. - -All the walls are curved, and all buttresses, entrances, and ends of -walls are rounded, and have a distinct batter-back. The granite blocks -in some portions of the walls are as regular in size and shape as those -to be seen in the Elliptical Temple, but the construction is not of -the best. The outer faces of the walls have been first raised, and the -internal portions afterwards filled in with stones of all sizes and -shapes, but larger than those seen in the filling-in of the interiors -of many of the walls at Khami Ruins. The courses at some points are -very regular, but at others there has been no attempt at making any -courses. The column style of building adopted by old Makalanga and -Barotse is present in parts. The walls average about 4 ft. in width at -base and 3 ft. on present reduced summit. There is no mural decorative -work introduced. - -[Illustration: Sketch Plan - -RUIN near CHENGA’S KRAAL - -(Zimbabwe)] - -The natives state that this ruin was not built by the same people that -built the rough walls of the minor ruins at Zimbabwe, their theory -being that it was erected by Barotse very many generations ago, and -on this point they are very emphatic. The translations of the native -expressions for relics are “pretty stone” and “money.” In starting work -here, the labourers, who receive small rewards for discovering relics, -grumbled considerably, and informed the author that it was useless to -work there, as no “pretty stones” or “money” would be found there. -Similar remarks were made about other small ruins, and in every case -they have been proved to be correct. Whether this ruin has actually any -claim to antiquity is a matter which, at present, it would be unsafe to -dogmatise upon. - - - CHENGA’S AND MADAVID PATH RUINS - -These ruins are in a valley which runs north and south on the Beroma -Range at one mile distance south-east of Chenga’s kraal, and lie a few -yards to the west of the native path leading from Chenga’s to Madavid’s -kraal. Madavid is the native name for David, a Basuto, who lives near. - -The area covered is fully a third of an acre on the summit of a knoll, -which rises some 30 ft. above the valley. Traces of walls covering an -area of an acre and a half are to be seen on the south, west, and north -sides. Large granite boulders have been utilised in the construction, -the walls being carried in curved lines from boulder to boulder, -enclosing a rudely drawn circular area 51 ft. from east to west, and -42 ft. from north to south. In one instance the wall is carried over a -boulder. - -The faces of the walls show good workmanship, the courses being fairly -even, the joints uniformly distributed, and the blocks regular in size. -The bases of the walls average from 4 ft. to 5 ft. in width, while the -very reduced summits are 3 ft. 6 in. wide at 5 ft. from the ground. The -walls display a carefulness in construction which is absent from some -of the divisional walls of the main ruins at Zimbabwe. The side walls -of the entrance on the east side of the building are most perfectly -rounded. There is no mural decoration. The interior of the building is -of earth, which contains Kafir pottery, etc. No exploration work has -been done here. - - - MAPAKU, OR “LITTLE ZIMBABWE” RUINS - -These ruins are situated at a distance of seven miles south-east of -Zimbabwe, and occupy a position overlooking the Motelekwe Valley, -and are on the eastern side of the lower shoulders of the southern -extremity of the Beroma Range. On the south side of the ruins the -ground falls in the direction of the Motelekwe River, which here flows -south to south-west of the ruins at the distance of about a mile. The -Mapaku kraal is a quarter of a mile north-west of the ruins. At the -village are some caves (_I-Baku_, cave; _Mapaku_, caves). The headman -is a Molinye, younger brother to the Mogabe Handisibishe of Zimbabwe. -Good water can be obtained from several places in the vicinity of the -ruins. - -[Illustration: MAPAKU RUINS or “Little Zimbabwe”] - -The area covered by these ruins, excepting traces of outlying walls, -is 70 ft. from north to south, and 80 ft. from east to west. Though -the ruins are small in area, yet they have a considerable importance, -seeing that they form one of the ruins of the chain of such structures -which stretches at certain intervals from Zimbabwe along the Motelekwe -River, which chain again connects with the chain of a similar class -of ruins running from the lower Sabi in Portuguese territory in the -direction of Sofala. The chains of ruins appear to point out the -ancient approach from the coast to the metropolitan centre at Zimbabwe -and the gold districts of Southern Mashonaland and Matabeleland. - -The thickness and height of the walls are the first features which -will strike anyone on entering the building, especially when the small -size of the centre ruins are taken into consideration. The walls are -all built on curved lines, and average a width of 4 to 5 ft. at the -base, and 3 ft. at present reduced summits at 8 ft. above the ground. -All the walls are built upon the granite rock formation, and there is -comparatively very little soil on the floors, and most of this is black -vegetable mould. Fortunately these ruins have not been subjected to the -filling-in operations of the very old Kafir peoples as have so very -many ancient ruins in Rhodesia. The absence of sufficient soil for the -growth of large trees has no doubt saved the walls from more serious -dilapidation. The walls are white with lichen, this being a feature in -all the ruins along the Motelekwe Valley, which, seen from Zimbabwe, is -usually filled with mist-fogs. - -The main entrance evidently is the one on the south-west side of the -building, for here is a long narrow passage leading from the interior, -the passage running parallel to the south main wall forming an easily -defended approach. The ruins have only two entrances—the main entrance -and an angular entrance on the north side without portcullis grooves. -This latter entrance leads into an outer enclosure only, and is -protected on the inside by what may be described as a “sentry-box.” -This is a curved wall 7 ft. long and 5 ft. high, enclosing a small area -large enough to hold two or three men, and its entrance opens on to the -inside of the entrance in the main wall. There are several of these -“sentry-boxes” at Zimbabwe occupying exactly similar positions near -entrances. - -The interior of the building contains at least four enclosures and two -long passages, and these may be described as follows:— - -No. 1 Enclosure, which is on the north-east side of the ruins, is -22 ft. from east to west, and 13 ft. 6 in. from north to south. The -floor is formation rock covered over (1903) with a few inches’ depth of -vegetable mould. The main wall, which forms its north and east sides, -is 6 ft. high throughout, the wall on the west is 8 ft. high, and the -curved walls which divide this enclosure from No. 2 Enclosure average -6 ft. and 7 ft. in height, except at the entrance to No. 2 Enclosure, -where the height on either side is reduced to 5 ft. - -[Illustration: THE PASSAGE, LOOKING SOUTH, MAPAKU RUINS] - -[Illustration: SLATE BEAM IN RECESS OF ENTRANCE, PHILIPS’ RUINS, VALLEY -OF RUINS] - -No. 2 Enclosure, which is roughly circular in form, is only approached -by one entrance, and this is on its north side, and leads from No. 1 -Enclosure. This entrance is angular, and has portcullis grooves, and is -2 ft. 8 in. wide and 3 ft. 6 in. long. The walls of this enclosure are -substantially built, being 3 ft. wide at their summits, which average -7 ft. to 9 ft. in height. The area enclosed is 20 ft. from north to -south, and 24 ft. from east to west. This enclosure, judging by its -complicated approach, was evidently the principal part of the ruins. - -Nos. 1 and 2 Enclosures are only approached by a passage 25 ft. long -running north and south, which is 2 ft. 10 in. wide at its northern -end and widens to 6 ft. 6 in. at the south end. The west wall of the -passage is from 5 ft. to 6 ft. high, and that on the east side 7 ft. to -8 ft. high. - -Leading from the north end of this passage into No. 1 Enclosure is a -covered entrance, 5 ft. high, 2 ft. 6 in. wide, and 5 ft. long. The -roof is supported by flat granite slabs. On either side, and extending -from floor to roof, are portcullis grooves. This entrance is somewhat -dilapidated, and it is feared that one side of it may soon fall down. - -No. 3 Enclosure is bounded on the north by the divisional wall of No. -2 Enclosure, on the east and south by the curved main wall, and on the -west by a very dilapidated divisional wall, which separates it from -No. 4 Enclosure. It is 21 ft. 6 in. from north to south at its widest -point, and about 35 ft. from east to west at its longest point. - -This enclosure is the first to be approached from the main or west -entrance to the building, with which it is connected by a passage -running parallel to the south main wall for 28 ft. Where the passage -enters No. 3 Enclosure are the remains of a rounded buttress on the -north side. From this buttress the passage westwards is 4 ft. 6 in. -wide, but quickly narrows to 2 ft. 8 in., which width is maintained -till it reaches the main entrance. The wall on the south side of -the passage is from 6 ft. to 9 ft. high, and that on the north side -averages 5 ft., but is greatly dilapidated toward its eastern end. - -No. 4 Enclosure is on the western side of the building, and is 41 ft. -from north to south at its broadest part, and 39 ft. from east to west -at its longest part. - -On the south side of the exterior are two circular stone foundations -of one course each. These are 9 ft. in diameter. A number of granite -blocks lie to the east of the building, and suggest the former -existence of some structure. - -The construction as a whole is somewhat similar to that seen in some of -the buildings in the Valley of Ruins at Zimbabwe. Straight joints and -tilted blocks, long and shallow in form, and a disregard of courses, -are the principal features in the workmanship shown in these ruins. -There is no mural decoration. - - - - - APPENDIX - - - NOTE A - - GREAT ZIMBABWE - - NOTICE TO VISITORS - -1. The only outspan is between Havilah Camp and the south side of the -Acropolis Hill. - -2. No trees or bush on the Zimbabwe reserve to be cut by visitors or -their native servants. Cut firewood is provided on the outspan. - -3. No visitor shall take into any ruin any spades or other tools for -the purpose of prospecting for relics or gold, or use the same within -the reserve. No excavated soil shall be panned, nor any stones removed -from the ruins. Surveys can only be made on the written authority of -the chief secretary. - -4. Visitors are requested not to touch or damage old cement work, -or shake any ancient monoliths, or climb on walls or places marked -“Dangerous,” and are asked to assist the Government in the preservation -of the ruins by giving immediate notice to the magistrate at Victoria, -or to any official in charge of the ruins, of any of the above offences -being committed. - -5. The provisions of the “Ancient Monuments Protection Ordinance, -1902,” with regard to the illegal possession of relics, prospecting for -same, or damage to ruins, and the consequent penalties of fines and -imprisonment for such offences will be strictly enforced. - -6. The attention of visitors is also directed to the subjoined rules -framed under the said ordinance. - - By order, - H. H. CASTENS, _Chief Secretary_. - - CHIEF SECRETARY’S OFFICE, SALISBURY. - _1st May, 1904._ - - - GOVERNMENT NOTICE No. 103 OF 1904 - - CHIEF SECRETARY’S OFFICE, SALISBURY. - _28th April, 1904._ - - It is hereby notified for public information that His Honour - the Administrator has been pleased to approve of the subjoined - rules, framed under the provisions of Section 7 of the “Ancient - Monuments Protection Ordinance, 1902,” for visiting and - inspecting the ruins of Zimbabwe. - - By command of His Honour the Administrator. - - H. H. CASTENS, _Chief Secretary_. - -1. The public will ordinarily be permitted to visit and inspect the -ancient ruins at Zimbabwe between the hours of 6 a.m. and 6 p.m., -subject to the conditions prescribed by these rules. - -2. Any person producing a written permit granted to him by the -Administrator, or by a magistrate, or a printed ticket in the -prescribed form for the admission of visitors to the ruins, will be -allowed access to them. All such permits and tickets shall, before -admission, be delivered to the caretaker or person in attendance at the -time. - -3. No person shall:— - - (1) Dig or search within or about the walls of the ruins for - minerals, precious stones, or curiosities; or - - (2) Carry into any part of the ruins any spades or other tools; - or - - (3) Pan or sift any excavated soil in or about the ruins; or - - (4) Remove any stone, wood, brick, or material from the ruins; - or - - (5) Remove trees, shrubs, or plants growing within or about the - ruins, under a penalty, upon conviction, of a sum not - exceeding £5. - - - NOTE B - - ROBERT M. W. SWAN - -We regret to record the death, which took place on March 26th last, -of Mr. R. M. W. Swan, well known for his share in the earlier -investigations of the ruins of Mashonaland. Mr. Swan was born in 1858, -and after receiving a technical training in Glasgow University and in -the laboratory of Mr. R. Tattock, went out to Spain in 1878 in the -capacity of a mining expert. In 1879 he went to Greece, and the next -seven years were spent in mining work, principally in Antiparos and -neighbouring islands. In addition to his professional employment, he -devoted much attention to archæology, publishing several papers on his -researches, and sending many specimens to the British Museum. It was -during this period that he first made the acquaintance of Mr. and Mrs. -Theodore Bent, whom he accompanied during their visits to several of -the islands, afterwards taking part in the expedition to Mashonaland, -carried out by them in 1891, for the examination of the Zimbabwe and -other ruins. During this expedition he undertook the cartographic -portion of the work, executing for the first time a careful plan of -the ruins, besides mapping the country along the routes followed, -and fixing the positions of a number of points astronomically. When, -after his return to this country, Mr. Bent described the results of -his journey before the Society, Mr. Swan added some notes on the -geography and meteorology of Mashonaland, and subsequently contributed -to the _Proceedings_ (May, 1892), a short paper on the orientation -of the ruins, showing in a striking way the close connection which -existed between the arrangement of the structures and the astronomical -phenomena to which, as sun-worshippers, their builders had paid so much -attention. The subject was more fully discussed in the section which he -contributed to Mr. Bent’s _Ruined Cities of Mashonaland_. The theory -which he developed was subjected to some criticism; but on returning -to South Africa to continue his investigations, he collected _data_, -which, as he claimed, fully bore out his ideas. During this journey, -carried out in 1893, he examined various ruins, till then undescribed, -besides doing something to improve the mapping of the country along his -route, which led inland by way of the Limpopo. - -This visit to South Africa lasted about two years, spent in part in -geological and mining work. In 1896 he examined the mining districts of -Western Australia and Tasmania, and in 1898 went to Siam with a similar -object, leaving again, after a short visit to this country, for the -Malay Peninsula, where he was engaged in mining work until his death, -which took place at Kuala Lumpur after an operation for abscess of the -liver. Here, as in South Africa, he did much careful cartographical and -geological work. - -Mr. Swan was an expert linguist, and from his residence in Greece had -acquired a great love for the classics. He possessed a large store -of knowledge on varied subjects, which he was always anxious to share -with others. He was a Fellow of the Geological and Chemical Societies, -as well as of our own, which he joined in 1893, having received the -Murchison Grant in 1892. (_Royal Geographical Society’s Journal_, May, -1904.) - - - NOTE C - - NOTE ON OLD POTTERY FOUND AT DEPTH AT RENDERS RUINS, - GREAT ZIMBABWE, JULY, 1903 - -This “find” consists of pottery of a very good quality about a quarter -of an inch thick, but covered with a most excellent glaze of blue, -white, and gold enamel, the white forming the background. - -There are at least four bands of pattern which encircled a large open -bowl. No. 8 is a part of the rim, which was straight. No. 1 appears by -its form to have been portion of the upper band; Nos. 2, 4, 5, 6, and 7 -the second band; No. 9 the third band; and a decoration of palm fronds, -in brown paint and in outline only, its lowest band. - -The clay is a light brown and of fine quality. - -The lettering or pattern is outlined with faint gold, with yellow -paint scroll-work filling the spaces between, and so minute are these -decorations that very few would notice them. They resemble, only on a -very minute scale, No. 3. - -I cannot piece the fragments together, but Nos. 4 and 7 seem to fit. - -The glaze is very thickly laid on, and both inside and outside are -covered, and it is of such splendid make, colour, and appearance that -many who have seen it say it is of the highest quality. - -The inside is white, and has lines of faint blue artistically drawn -without being of any set pattern. - -No portion of the base found would enable one to judge whether the bowl -had been made on a potter’s wheel or not. - -All the fragments were found together on a deeply buried floor, and at -the same spot a quantity of large pieces of beaten gold and some gold -beads were discovered. - -Some very thin light-brown pottery covered with white enamel, extending -some inches down from the rim inside and with thick bars of dull blue -enamel running from rim to centre, were also found at the same spot. - - - NOTE D - - ZIMBABWE RUINS - - [Extracted, by permission, from the Reports (1900–1902) of the - British South Africa Company.] - -I arrived at Victoria on the 23rd May, and left for Zimbabwe the -following morning. - -On inspecting the ruins I found the interior of the Elliptical Temple -one impenetrable jungle of trees, bushes, creepers, tall grass (6 -to 10 ft.), and decayed tree stumps and branches, so that it was -impossible to see beyond a few feet, while the surface of the ground -was most irregular and thickly covered with wall débris. The air -inside was fetid and heavy-smelling from the rank vegetation. There -being no opening on the eastern side, the interior is protected from -the prevailing winds, and the sun shining on the damp, dense, and -almost tropical foliage and plant growth made the air oppressive and -unhealthy, so that one could not remain long at a time in the building. - -Our first work was to clear away the undergrowth, but it was so dense -and matted with creepers that, with fifteen men working for a whole -day with hatchets, sickles, and spades, we were only able to advance -a few feet into the interior from the west entrance. It required nine -days for fifteen men to clear the interior of undergrowth alone. A -further three days were given to pulling up grass and shrub roots. The -atmosphere of the interior is completely changed, as the sun has dried -the surface of the ground. It is now possible to stand in the centre of -the building and obtain an uninterrupted view of the walls all round, -and at the same time to see at a glance the whole of the divisional -walls and enclosures. - -The north side of the summit of the Conical Tower has in very recent -years been denuded of several courses of blocks owing to the boughs -of large trees swinging upon it in the high winds. The tower is more -reduced than is shown in photographs taken six years ago. The dentelle -ornamentation on the summit has practically disappeared within the last -ten years. Some ancient blocks in the top courses are likely to fall. -These blocks could be pushed back flush with the face of the tower, and -some of the blocks which have very recently fallen might be restored to -their original position. The summit when cleared of vegetation should -be cemented over. It is a feature in Zimbabwe construction everywhere -in Rhodesia, for a block, when it falls, to carry with it the stones of -the course beneath it. - -Visitors point out that the tower has lately shown a tendency to tilt -somewhat towards the north-east. This is mainly due to the dense tree -growth enveloping the tower, which keeps it constantly dripping with -moisture, especially on the north side, where the main wall further -screens it from the morning sun. The only remedy appears to be to -so thin out the trees that the tower and its foundations may become -perfectly dry. The wet state of the tower has caused it to become -overgrown with lichen, which, decaying, produces vegetable matter -which lodges in the crevices of the courses, and out of which grow -small plants and shrubs, many of which we have removed. A large bush -was growing out from the side in mould so formed, and the remains of -a large bush on the summit are still to be seen. Should the tilting -not be prevented by such means as the thinning out of adjacent trees, -the value of the tower to scientists as a means of calculating the -orientation of the temple, and therefore its age, would become lost. -Three or four trees from close to the north-east, north, and north-west -sides of the tower have been cleared away, and the vicinity has already -a much drier appearance. - -The dank air and soil round the tower have caused the extensive growth -of large parent monkey-rope trees, which with their ropes spread in -great lengths in all directions, thickly interlacing the tops of the -trees, while their roots have in very many places pierced into both -main and divisional walls and torn out lengths of stonework. Monkey -ropes appear to be the most active source of the dilapidations of the -walls near the tower, but wild vines also have done considerable harm. -Several hundred yards of monkey rope have been cut down and taken -outside the temple, also very long stretches of monkey rope roots have -been pulled up. All lower branches are being removed, so as to give a -clear view all round the temple. Some of the upper branches are being -thinned out. - -The surface of the ground within the temple is covered with rich -leaf mould soil to a depth of at least one foot, and sometimes under -trees to a depth of one foot and a half. It is in this mould that -the thickets of large shrubs, creepers, especially monkey-ropes and -wild vines, seem to have thriven, as also in the débris heaps left by -Mr. Bent (1891) and Sir John Willoughby (1892), where the turning -over of the old time-hardened soil has ventilated it and caused most -sturdy growth of plants and trees. This leaf mould has been removed -from the floors of the inner parallel passage and in the passage on -the north-east, east, and south-east sides of No. 1 Enclosure, and -has been passed through sieves, and the soil neatly piled for future -examination. Thus has been removed in these places the unhealthy smell -formerly noticed. This work ought to be done in all internal enclosures -of the building. - -All wall débris is being neatly stacked and piled near where it -obviously came from. All scattered stones on the floors are being -collected and placed in piles. This work has made the enclosures to -appear neat and tidy. Messrs. Bent and Willoughby’s débris is also -being stacked in much smaller compass. All débris heaps are being -marked “débris” on painted boards. A large quantity of such débris -might after examination be removed outside the building and stacked. - -The summits of the main walls have been damaged at several points -by past and present boughs overspreading the walls and beating them -till several courses, the whole width of the walls, have disappeared, -thus causing depressions in the top line of walls at several points. -All branches, whether from trees within or without the temple, which -overhang the walls, are being carefully removed with the aid of -guide-ropes. Leaf mould has collected on the summits of the main walls -to such an extent that large shrubs and small trees are thriving on the -summits; these will be removed. - -Seven monoliths have been found under the leaf mould and grass and -shrub roots both inside and outside the foot of the main walls. Their -former positions on the walls are being ascertained, and where obvious -they will be re-erected. - -The chevron pattern on the outside of the walls of the temple has been -damaged, and in three places partially destroyed by large swinging -boughs. It is also destroyed in two places by heavy festoons of -creepers which had their roots in the open work of the pattern, the -roots pushing out some of the blocks of which the pattern is composed. -Some of these fallen blocks have been found, and there is a probability -that a portion of the pattern, where damaged, may be restored. It is -proposed to hand-pick all vegetable soil from the open spaces of the -pattern to prevent future growths of creepers. - -A clearing 8 yds. wide has been made round the outside of the whole of -temple, and an inspection of the walls by visitors is now possible. - -All the tops of divisional and broken portions and ends of walls, and -all interstices on both faces, are having the leaf mould carefully -hand-picked from them. This is a slow process, but will check their -dilapidation by vegetable growth for a very long time. - -The trenches made by Mr. Bent and Sir John Willoughby are being cleared -of grass and silted soil, and their spade and pick marks on the bottoms -can be seen. No ancient floor or soil has been disturbed, the ancient -floors being some 3 ft. to 5 ft. below the present surface. - -Roots of monkey-ropes and trees are binding the inside of main walls -below the present surface, as does a large plant in a small pot, and -are in most places, and below the surface, penetrating into the dry -masonry with damaging effect. I would suggest that a trench 2 ft. wide -by 3 ft. deep be made on the inside of all walls, and all such roots -removed. A yearly inspection of such trenches could be made, and any -new roots and runners lopped off as they appeared. Run-offs could be -made to prevent any accumulation of water in the trenches. - -_Architectural features._—(_a_) Four ancient drains, in addition to -those mentioned by Bent and Willoughby, have been discovered. - -(_b_) A rounded entrance with double curves; the only instance so far -known. - -(_c_) Three sets of stone steps and several square yards of ancient -cement flooring (not of the original builders) have been carefully -uncovered. - -(_d_) A second-period architecture building with terraces superimposed -on the walls of a first-period ruin. - -(_e_) An enlarged plan of the temple, based on Mr. Bent’s and Sir -John Willoughby’s measurements, is being prepared, and a quantity of -altogether fresh architectural detail included. - -Though the present is not a treasure-seeking expedition, yet there is -strong probability that some “finds” of historic value may be made. - -I have visited the Hill Fortress several times. Both the Western and -Eastern Temples on this hill are so full of undergrowth that it is -quite impossible to make any examination until it is cleared away. -Within a week I hope to put on men to make a good path up to the -fortress. - -The following new features in ancient architecture have been -discovered:— - -1. A dentelle pattern till recently covered with wall débris. A portion -destroyed by roots (Acropolis Ascent). - -2. A small enclosure with cemented lining on face of walls (Acropolis). - -3. Three wedge-shaped buttresses, first set discovered in Rhodesia -(Acropolis). - -4. Two drains, one showing signs of having been cemented (Acropolis). - -5. A northern ancient ascent between parallel walls from large rounded -entrance near donga in the valley. - -6. Passage 7 ft. deep and about 20 ft. long, completely buried in -fallen wall débris, over which the visitors’ path had crossed (South -Enclosure, Acropolis). - -7. Passage 8 ft. deep and 30 ft. long, completely covered by wall -débris, over which the old visitors’ ascent path had crossed (Platform -Enclosure). - -8. The round towers on the large west wall of Acropolis can now be -shown, by the radii of stones of the top courses recently discovered, -to have originally been conical. - -9. Two large ancient entrances, hitherto unknown, deliberately filled -in by Makalangas for graves, the remains removed and reburied with -Mogabe’s consent (Cleft Rock Enclosure). - -10. The covered passage at foot of platform which had been blocked -up by Makalangas for graves (fifteen years old) cleared, the remains -removed and reburied with Mogabe’s consent. Visitors can now traverse -this passage. - - - NOTE E - - [Extracted from Report presented to the Chief Secretary, - Government Offices, Salisbury, Rhodesia, November, 1903.] - -_Zimbabwe, Acropolis Ruins._—I regret having to report that the -slanting granite beam on the platform at the Western Temple of the -Acropolis Ruins has fallen and is fractured. This happened during the -heavy thunder and rain storms of last week. The discovery of its fall -was made to-day by Mr. Molyneux (Scientific Association, Bulawayo), -Mr. Herbert Hayles (Sheriff of Victoria), and myself. No clearing or -any other operations have been conducted here within a distance of -twenty feet. Mr. Molyneux thoroughly agrees with me that the fall was -perfectly natural. - -The beam has for at least twelve years leant over at a severe angle, -and now it can be seen that it was once perpendicular. The base was -only fixed in the stonework for 1 ft. 8 in. The length of the beam from -the base was 12 ft. 11 in., but this was longer by 2 ft. 4 in. some -time previously to Mr. Theodore Bent’s visit in 1891. - -The great marvel is that no one has been killed by its fall, for many -visitors climbing to the platform have used the beam to assist in the -ascent, and also in descending, and I have, as is well known, on scores -of occasions warned them not to do so. - -The beam in falling did but slight damage to the surrounding masonry. -The portions of the beam are now laid together. - -I have photographs of the platform, and showing this beam, taken from -all points of the compass. - - RICH^{D.} N. HALL, - _Curator of Great Zimbabwe_. - - - NOTE F - - INVENTORY OF RELICS AND “FINDS” DISCOVERED BY THE AUTHOR AT - GREAT ZIMBABWE IN 1902–3 - - No. Article. Where found. - - 1. Gold wire bangle, 3½ oz. { South Terrace, - { Acropolis. - - 2. Beaten gold round carbonised wood. } - A few gold tacks in the wood } Do. - - 3. Head and neck of carved soapstone } - bird (the ninth yet discovered); believed } Western Temple, - to be the largest and best-preserved } Acropolis. - specimen } - - 4. Fragment of carved soapstone bowl. } - Two horned animals } Do. - - 5. Fragment of carved soapstone bowl. } South Enclosure, - Herring-bone on cord pattern } Acropolis. - - 6. Fragment of carved soapstone bowl. } Western Temple, - Horned animal } Acropolis. - - 7. Fragment of rim of carved soapstone } South Enclosure, - bowl, cord pattern } Acropolis. - - 8. Two sections of large soapstone bowl; } - believed to be two of the three } No. 2. Enclosure, - missing sections of bowl lent by the } Elliptical Temple. - Right Hon. C. J. Rhodes to the } - Cape Town Museum } - - 9. Phallus in two sections; found broken; } Elliptical Temple. - undecorated soapstone } - - 10. Phallus (section of), with “breast and } - furrow” pattern, which was an } Do. - ancient symbol of fertility; soapstone } - - 11. Phallus (section of), found with true } Do. - phalli; soapstone; undecorated. } - - 12. Phallus; soapstone } Do. - - 13. Phallus (section of), “breast and furrow” } - pattern; soapstone } Do. - - 14. Base of phallus; soapstone; found } Do. - with true phalli } - - 15. Cut soapstone, plain, found with true } Do. - phalli } - - 16. Phallus (section of, conjectured), found } Do. - with true phalli; soapstone } - - 17. Soapstone amulet Acropolis. - - 18. Soapstone whorl Elliptical Temple. - - 19. Ten fragments of neck of carved soapstone } Do. - vase } - - 20. Fragment of carved rim of soapstone } No. 10 Enclosure, - bowl; cord pattern } Acropolis. - - 21. Carved soapstone bead } Elliptical Temple. - - 22. Four pottery whorls and two fragments } Do. - - 23. Serpentine stone, with veins of asbestos } - chrysotile (not chrysolithic, } - as stated by Mr. Bent); not ordinary } - asbestos, but similar to Canadian. } Western Temple, - Veins have decomposed before } Acropolis. - body of stone } - - 24. Do. } Do. - - 25. Copper spearhead } Do. - - 26. Two copper spearheads, broken } Do. - - 27. Two iron ringed instruments, conjectured } - to have belonged to Arab } Elliptical Temple. - colony once settled at Zimbabwe } - - 28. Two wedge-shape headed nails Do. - - 29. Beaten copper Acropolis. - - 30. Iron handle of double-pointed iron } Elliptical Temple. - hand-pick } - - 31. Jasper stone with gold embedded. } - Found with burnishing stones } No. 10 Enclosure. - - 32. Quartz pebble, showing visible gold; } - also artificially worn. Found with } Do. - burnishing tools } - - 33. Quartz pebble, showing visible gold. } Do. - Found with burnishing tools } - - 34. Collection of stone tools, artificially } - worn; some are burnishers. 3 ft. } Do. - deep } - - 35. Fragments of soapstone beams; crude } Acropolis. - decorations } - - 36. Collection of iron articles from depth } - in Elliptical Temple which has not } - been occupied as a Makalanga kraal } Elliptical Temple. - for over sixty years } - - 37. Collection of seven fragments of soapstone } Acropolis and - bowls } Elliptical Temple. - - 38. Section of soapstone mould { No. 7 Enclosure, - { Elliptical Temple. - - 39. Cake of gold North-East Passage. - - 40. Stone, both water and artificially worn, } - showing gold on both sides. Found } No. 10 Enclosure, - with burnishing tools } Elliptical Temple. - - 41. Flat stone showing gold on one side. } Do. - Found with burnishing tools } - - 42. Three portions of crucibles, six clay } No. 6 Enclosure, - scorifiers, one portion of clay lining } Elliptical Temple. - of furnace, all showing gold in flux } - - 43. Fragment of soapstone bowl, herring-bone } No. 1 Enclosure, - pattern on cord } Elliptical Temple. - - 44. Fragment of soapstone bowl, herring-bone } No. 6 Enclosure, - pattern on cord } Elliptical Temple. - - 45. Fragment of soapstone bowl, carved { No. 7 Enclosure, - { Elliptical Temple. - - 46. Fragment of soapstone bowl, cord } No. 6 Enclosure, - pattern } Elliptical Temple. - - 47. Fragment of large soapstone bowl, } Do. - carved } - - 48. Section of soapstone mould; conjectured } Do. - old Makalanga } - - 49. Do. Do. - - 50. Soapstone I-daha pipe bowl, carved; } Elliptical Temple. - old Makalanga } - - 51. Soapstone amulet { No. 6 Enclosure, - { Elliptical Temple. - - 52. Iron pincers; conjectured old Makalanga } Do. - - 53. Iron gong; do. Do. - - 54. Do. Do. - - 55. Barbed copper spearhead { Western Temple, - { Acropolis. - - 56. Twenty-three pottery whorls { On old Makalanga - { floors. - - 57. Conjectured base of soapstone phallus, } No. 6 Enclosure, - converted by old Makalanga } Elliptical Temple. - into a crude mould } - - 58_a_. } { Summit of main wall - 58_b_. } Three sections of soapstone beams { above chevron - 58_c_. } { pattern, Elliptical - { Temple. - - 59. Section of soapstone beam { Eastern Temple, - { Acropolis. - - 60. Do. Do. - - 61. Do. Do. - - 62. Do. Do. - - 63. Do. Do. - - 64. Do. (showing tool marks) Do. - - 65. Section of cement cylinder with bevel } Mauch Ruins. - round base. Age uncertain } - - 66. Beaten gold { Western Temple, - { Acropolis. - - 67. Forked iron instrument, with six gold } - bosses riveted with gold; spiral } Do. - grooves at base } - - 68. Beaten gold (2⅛ oz.) Valley of Ruins. - - { W. and E. Temples, - 69. Phalli (8) and fragments of phalli { Acropolis, and - { Philips Ruins. - - 70. Fragments of rim of soapstone bowl } No. 5 Enclosure, - carved with procession of horned } Elliptical Temple. - animals. Pieces fit each other } - - 71. Pottery animals (3); conjectured old } No. 1 Enclosure, - Makalanga } Elliptical Temple. - - 72. I-daha pipe-bowls (2) of soapstone, } No. 5 Enclosure, - carved; conjectured old Makalanga } Elliptical Temple. - - 73. Iron with gravitating holes for drawing } - wire; old Makalanga. These wire } No. 6 Enclosure, - drawers were in use until a few years } Elliptical Temple. - ago - - 74. Copper finger-rings (2); snake pattern Renders Ruins. - - 75. Copper sheathing (2 lbs.) { Western Temple, - { Acropolis. - - 76. Single iron gong Renders Ruins. - - 77. Large piece of coral Renders Ruins. - - 78. Pottery whorls (200) Old native floors. - - 79. Double iron gongs (3 sets) and single } Upper floors. - gongs (2) } - - 80. Serpentine stone Elliptical Temple. - - 81. Nozzle of blow-pipe Do. - - 82. Porcelain beads, unknown to present } Western Temple, - natives. 5 ft. deep } Acropolis. - - 83. Pottery beads, unknown to present } Various ruins. - natives } - - 84. Soapstone amulet or seal (?) Renders Ruins. - - 85. Block of solid copper Do. - - 86. Iron striker found with gong Do. - - 87. Quantity of fragments of carved } Elliptical Temple. - soapstone. Ribbed pattern } - - 88. Fragments of rim of soapstone bowl } - carved with ring pattern. (These } Maund Ruins. - fit together) } - - 89. Portion of carved soapstone beam } - converted into double claw-hammer } Elliptical Temple. - shaped ingot moulds } - - 90. Soapstone phallus { Platform Area, - { Elliptical Temple. - - 91. Copper barbed spearheads (2) { Platform Area, - { Elliptical Temple. - - 92. Soapstone with gravitating holes Renders Ruins. - - 93. 2⅛ oz. beaten gold, gold beads, gold - bar, and gold wire - - { From near arc wall - { in Philips Ruins; - 94. Fifteen sections of soapstone beams { also from circular - (plain) { cement platform in - { Platform Area, - { Elliptical Temple. - - 95. Case of sections of soapstone bowls, { Elliptical Temple, - plain and decorated { Acropolis and - { Philips Ruins. - - 96. Section of carved soapstone beam No. 15 Enclosure, - Elliptical Temple. - - 97. Iron spoon Renders Ruins. - - 98. Iron lamp and stand (conjectured) Do. - - 99. Iron pick Elliptical Temple. - - 100. Iron pick and 2 handles Do. - - 101. Twisted iron wire in coils Renders Ruins. - - 102. Bar mould of soapstone Elliptical Temple. - - 103. Section of soapstone beam carved { Western Temple, - with maize pattern { Acropolis. - - 104. Bundle of brass wire bangles Renders Ruins. - - 105. Three iron nails Elliptical Temple. - - 106. Ornamented iron spearhead { Western Temple, - { Acropolis. - - 107. Bevelled cement General. - - 108. Spearhead Renders Ruins. - - 109. Two stone balls Elliptical Temple. - - 110. Collection of specimens of hoes, - assegai-heads, arrow-heads, axes, - and iron-work found in ruins - - 111. Several pieces of worked soapstone - - 112. Soapstone bird on beam Philips Ruins. - - 113. Packet of large gold beads, 1 in. } - fine gold chain, one single gold wire } Various Ruins. - bangle, gold wire, and beaten gold } - - 114. Four soapstone phalli (one ornate) } Philips Ruins. - and two amulets } - - 115. Two small bronze bells Renders Ruins. - - 116. Two large enamelled beads Western Temple. - - 117. Collections of copper ingots, copper } Elliptical Temple, - bars, copper wire, copper bangles, } Renders Ruins, - and cakes of copper } and Acropolis. - - 118. Copper band 12 ft. 6 in. long and } Renders Ruins. - 1 in. wide } - - 119. Box of Nankin china, sections showing } - plates of various sizes and } From most ruins. - designs } - - 120. Portions of glass basin, engraved } No. 7 Enclosure, - and hand-painted } Elliptical Temple. - - 121. Glazed pottery, with conjectured } Renders Ruins. - post-Koranic lettering } - - 122. Fragments of Venetian glass Do. - - 123. Fragments of antique glazed earthenware, } Do. - showing potter’s wheel marks } - - 124. Three fragments of antique pottery, } Do. - glazed } - - 125. 12 ft. fine copper chain Do. - - 126. Pottery nozzle of blow-pipe Do. - - 127. Fused brass wire Do. - - 128. Two iron instruments Do. - - 129. Bronze axe-head, and fractured bronze } - arrow-head } Western Temple. - - 130_a_. Part of young lion’s jaw Renders Ruins. - 〃 _b_. Large lump of resin Do. - 〃 _c_. Wart-hog tusk Do. - 〃 _d_. Two sections of glass prism Do. - - 131. Remains of antique copper box Do. - - 132. Oldest form of gold crucible, showing } Exterior (west) of - gold in flux } Elliptical Temple. - - 133. Piece of slag showing gold Do. - - 134. Packet of sheets of beaten gold { Parallel Passage, - { Elliptical Temple. - - 135. Several cases of duplicates of soapstone, } - iron, copper, and pottery } Various Ruins. - articles } - - - NOTE G - - FORMATION ROCK UNDER ELLIPTICAL TEMPLE - - Examinations made by the Author, August, 1903 - -_No. 1 Hole._—No. 5 Enclosure. 6 yds. south-east of west entrance. - -3 ft. 10 in. diameter. - -9 in. to 12 in., burnt clay floor (pinkish), 2 in. layer of small -stones. - -Below floor, bright yellow granite sand, set very hard, contains no -stones. - -On north side to 3 ft. depth, old trench of prospectors, filled in with -blocks and red soil. - -Formation rock exposed at 8 ft. 7 in., and this has a fall of 1½ in. in -3 ft. 10 in. towards east. - -Surface of bed-rock is rough and decomposed to a depth of ⅓ of an inch, -and can easily be chipped with pick. - -Above formation rock is 1 ft. depth of granite sand, filled with flakes -of decomposed granite from rock, and of deep orange colour. - -Water passes along surface of bed-rock, and soil was damp and wet for 3 -in. in depth. - -_No. 2 Hole._—No. 5 Enclosure. 6 ft. north-east of monoliths. - -3 ft. 9 in. diameter. - -1 ft. burnt clay floor and scattered blocks and granite chips, soil -damp for 2 ft. and wet for a few inches above formation rock, which is -decomposed and easily scaled. - -Formation rock disclosed at 12 ft. 7 in., with fall of 7 in. in 3 ft. 6 -in. towards E.N.E. - -Sides show bright yellow granite sand set hard, and no stones. - -_No. 3 Hole._—South side of No. 5 Enclosure. - -3 ft. 9 in. diameter. - -6 in. burnt clay floor. - -Sand red at top and yellow beneath; no stones. - -Bed-rock covered with 1 ft. depth of decomposed granite with aphite -chips, surface of rock rough and greatly decomposed; aphite chips. - -Formation rock disclosed at 10 ft. 1 in. depth. - -Fall of rock 4 in. in 3 ft. 4 in. towards east. - -Bottom very wet. - -_No. 4. Hole._—Between No. 5 Enclosure and Central Area. - -3 ft. 6 in. diameter. - -9 in. burnt clay and small stones, forming bedding for clay. - -2 ft. red veld soil. - -1 ft. 8 in. decomposed granite above rock. - -Rest bright yellowy and set hard. - -Formation rock disclosed at 12 ft. 1 in. depth, showing fall of 3 in. -in 3 ft. towards north and north-east. - -Bottom very wet. - -_No. 5 Hole._—West side of No. 6 Enclosure. - -At depth of 11 ft. no formation rock, but rods showed rock at 3 ft. 4 -in. lower; unsafe to make hole deeper. Soil very wet. - -_No. 6 Hole._—East end of No. 6 Enclosure. - -At depth of 14 ft. no sign of rock. - -_No. 7 Hole._—Centre of Platform Area. - -At depth of 12 ft. no sign of rock; bottom wet. - -_No. 8 Hole._—Centre of Central Area. - -At depth of 8 ft. no trace of rock. Hole passed through two clay -floors, and below one granite cement floor. - -The Central Area had previously been cleared to a depth of 5 ft. before -hole was sunk. - - - - - INDEX - - - =Abolosi.= _See_ =Barosie= - - =Acropolis Ruins=— - Situation, 3 - First impressions of, 5 - View from, 6–11 - Sunset on, 24–30 - Description of, 276–362 - S.E. ascent, 276–294 - Lower Parapet, 282–286 - Rock Passage, 286–288 - Higher Parapet, 288–290 - Original heights of walls, 290, 291 - Ascent from coast route, 291, 292 - Possible ancient scenes on ascent, 293, 294 - Dentelle Pattern on ascent, 285, 289 - Western Enclosure, 294–296 - Western Temple, xxviii, xxix, 297–309 - North Wall, 298, 299 - West Wall, 299, 300 - Monoliths and Conical Towers, 300, 302 - Architecture and construction of West Wall, 302, 303 - South Wall, 303, 304 - East side of Western Temple, 304 - Centre of arc of West Wall, 304–307 - Covered Passage, 307 - Platform Cave, 307, 308 - Stairs to Platform, 308 - Parallel Passage, 308 - Internal walls, xxix, 308, 309 - Sections of floors, xxviii, xxix, 309 - Platform Enclosure, 310–312 - Cleft Rock Enclosure, 312, 313 - The Platform, 313–315, 441, 442 - Balcony Wall, 315 - Little Enclosure, 315, 316 - The Winding Stairs, 316 - Upper Passage, 316 - East Passage, 316 - Buttress Passage, 317, 318 - South Enclosure A, 318 - South Cave, 319, 320 - South Passage, 320 - South Enclosure B, 320, 321 - South Enclosure C, 321 - Central Passage, 321 - Eastern Temple, 323–335 - Section of Eastern Temple, 324 - Plan of Eastern Temple, 326 - Dentelle Pattern at Eastern Temple, 328 - Bent’s “altar” at Eastern Temple, 333 - The Ancient Balcony, 335, 336 - Gold Furnace Enclosure, 337, 338 - Balcony Cave, 337 - Balcony Enclosure, 336 - Upper Gold Furnace Enclosure, 338 - Pattern Passage, 338, 339 - Step Pattern, 339 - Recess Enclosure, 340, 341 - North Plateau, 341, 342 - North Parapet, 342, 343 - N.W. ascent, 344–349 - Water Gate Ruins, 349–353 - Terraced Enclosures on N.W. face of hill, 353–357 - South Terrace, 357, 358 - Outspan Ruins, 279, 358–362 - - =Aden (Eudaemon)=, 67 - - =Almaquah (Venus or Ashtaroth)=, Sabæan Divinity, 108, 194 - - =Amangwa Tribe=, 53, 57, 59, 84, 85, 91 - - =Ancient Architecture at Zimbabwe=, 135–192 - Sabæans (Himyarites) as builders, xxxii, xxxvii (note), 136, 193, - 194 - Degree of durability of walls, 138 - Dilapidations, 139–148 - Makalanga walls within ruins, xxix, 149–152, 312, 336, 373 - Some other walls not ancient, xxvii, xxix, 152 - Makalanga huts within ruins, xx, xxix, 149–156, 365, 368, 373, 413 - Passages, 156–162 - Entrances and buttresses, 162–166 - Dilapidations to entrances and buttresses, 166, 167 - Drains, 168–172 - Battering of walls, 172–174 - Monoliths, 174–176 - Soapstone monoliths, 176–178 - Number of monoliths still more or less erect, 178–180 - Slate and granite beams, 180, 181 - Cement dadoes, 181–182, 240, 372, 375, 383 - Built-up crevices, 182, 183 - Holes in wall other than drains, 183, 184, 423 - Blind steps and platforms, 184, 185, 236, 240, 254, 261, 385 - Ancient walls at a distance from any main ruins are of less - superior construction, 185–187 - Cement, 187–189 - Ancients and caves and rock holes (_see_ =Caves=), 189–192 - Recesses, 340, 341, 379 - “Sentry-boxes,” 374, 430 - - =Ancient clothing=, surmise as to, 293 - - =Ancient output of gold=, 292 - - =Ancient relics discovered at Zimbabwe=, 102–135 - Inventory of, 142, 148 - - =Ancient road, Zimbabwe and Sofala=, Taunton, 63, 74 - - =Arab “finds” at Zimbabwe=— - Box, 116 - Lamp chain, 116 - Lamp-stand, 118 - Iron keys, 122 - Calcedony beads, 126 - Glass, 128 - Pottery, 131, 436 - - =Arab gold and ivory traders=, 67 - - =Arab trading station at Zimbabwe=, 132–134 - - =Area of Zimbabwe Ruins=, xv-xvii - - =Arowi Kopje=, 11, 66, 69, 95 - - =Ashtaroth.= _See_ =Almaquah= - - - =Bailey, Thomas=, grave of, 19 - - =Baranzimba’s kraal=, 10, 16, 52 - His old kraal, 52, 57 - The headman, 41, 88 - - =Barbosa, Duarte= (1514), on the Makalanga, 123, 132, 133 - - =Barotse (Barosie, Marosie, Varosie, Abolosi)=— - Derivation and origin of, 81, 82 - Excellent stone-builders, 82, 85 - Jerri’s people Barotse, 82 - Head kraal at Zimbabwe, 8, 83, 424 - Resided in the ruins, 83 - Resided on Bentberg, 153 - Totem of race, 91 - Totem of tribe, 91–92 - Pottery, 129 - Kraal of Motumi, 58 - - =Baduma Tribe=, 91, 94 - - =Beads=, 126 - Gold, 113 - Calcedony, 126 - Porcelain, 132 - Glass, 132 - Ivory and bone, 126 - Unknown to natives, 306 - - =Bent, F.R.G.S., Theodore=, xv, xvii, xxix, 3, 8, 18, 35, 39, 55, 64, - 106, 108, 109, 111, 112, 125, 135, 151, 161, 171, 193, 195, 198, - 208, 209, 218, 221, 222, 223, 226, 234, 242, 244, 245, 265, 272, - 273, 295, 296, 304, 306, 327, 338 - - =Bentberg Hill (Matusa)=, 7, 8, 9, 137 - Ruins on, 424 - - =Benzi=, nickname of the present Mogabe, 42 - - =Beroma Range=, 11, 31, 49, 51, 63 - - =Beroma Ruins=, 68, 69 - - =Besa Mountains=, 10 - - =Bethûl=, “dwelling-place of God” of Phœnicians, 15 - - =Bingura=, Amangwa chief, 57 - - =Bingura’s kraal=, 9, 17, 57, 58, 84 - - =Bingura’s Path=, 56, 59, 137 - - =Bingura’s Path Ruins=, 425 - - =Brass articles=, bangles and wire, 123, 124 - Brass bartered for by Makalanga (1514), 123 - - “=Breasts, Queen of Sheba’s=,” on Beroma Range, Zimbabwe. _See_ - =Marsgi= and =Sueba= - - =British South Africa Company=, 2, 3, 279 - - =Bryce, Professor=, on Makalanga stone buildings, 151 - - =Budge, Dr.= (British Museum), opinion on Arabian glass, 128 - On “finds” in later ruins, xviii, xix, xxvi - - =Bungu=, Makalanga Headman, 55 - - =Burial-places of ancients=, searches for, xvii-xviii - - =Bushman paintings= absent from Zimbabwe district, 192 - - =Byblos, Temple of=, in Phœnicia, compared with Great Zimbabwe, - xxxix, 245 - - - =Camp Ruins Nos. 1 and 2=, 414–419 - - =Calcedony beads=, 126 - Prof. Flinders Petrie’s opinion on, 126 - - =Caves=, 189–192 - At Wuwuli, 55 - Chibfuko, 59 - Chicagomboni, 61 - Mapaku, 63, 70 - Majerri, 73 - Nini, 86 - South Cave, 319, 320 - Balcony Cave, 337 - - =Chamananga (Middle Kopje)=, 56 - - =Chenga=, Makalanga headman, derivation and position, 11, 17, 31, 41, - 57 - - =Chenga Ruins=, 66, 67, 426, 427 - - =Chenga and MaDavid’s Path Ruins=, 428 - - =Cherimbila=, Makalanga chief, 10 - Renders died at kraal, 62 - Stone buildings at kraal, 152 - - =Chevron pattern= at— - Majerri Ruins, 73 - Elliptical Temple, 147, 211–213 - - =Chibfuko Hill=, 10 - Caves at, 59 - - =Chicagomboni Hill=, 61 - - =Chickwanda’s kraal=, 95 - - =Chinaka’s kraal=, 72 - - =China=, Nankin, 130 - Arabian, 131 - Sketch of, with Arabic lettering, 131, 436 - - =Chinongu’s kraal=, 11 - - =Chipadzi’s kraal=, 52, 59, 60, 61 - - =Chipfuno= (late Mogabe), 42, 55 - - =Chipo-popo Falls=, 51 - - =Comoro Islands=, peopled by Jews under Solomon, xxxvii - - =Condor, Colonel=, Syro-Arabian archæologist, 4 - - =Conical towers= at— - Elliptical Temple, 240–246 - Traces on walls, 208 - Western Temple, 297, 300–302 - Outspan Ruins, 361 - Philips Ruins, 380, 381 - Posselt Ruins, 372 - Byblos, xxxix, 245 - - =Copper articles=, 115–116 - Sheathing, 115 - Spearheads, 115, 116 - Wire, 116 - Cakes and slag, 116 - Ore, 116 - Cupolas, 116 - Chain, 116 - Box, bangles, finger-rings, 116 - - =Coral=, finds of, 134 - - =Cotopaxi Mountain=, 10 - - =Cowrie shells=, finds of, 133 - - - =De Barros= (1552) mentions Zimbabwe, xxvi, 132 - - =Delitzsch, F.=, on the signs of the Babylonian Zodiac, xxxviii - - =Dentelle pattern= on— - Conical Tower, 243 - S.E. ascent, 285, 289 - Platform of Western Temple, 314 - Eastern Temple, 325, 328 - - =Derembghe’s kraal=, 95 - - =Doro (Dorah)=, native beer, 16, 18, 45, 46 - - =Drew, Mr. Alfred=, Native Commissioner, Victoria district, 2, 59, - 81, 82, 85, 86, 152, 156 - - - =East Kopje= (Mazanda), 64 - - =East Ruins=, 420–423 - - =Edwards, M.E., the late Telford=, on the ancient mines of Rhodesia, - xxvii; - on the terraced slopes of Inyanga, xxxiv - - =Elliptical Temple=, 3 - First impressions of, 4 - Sunday morning in, 13–16 - Midnight in, 16–24 - Goldsmith’s shop in, 256 - Formation rock under, 449, 450 - Plan, xxiii, 193–197 - Construction of, 197–199 - Measurement of main wall, 199–204 - Summit of main wall, xxiii, 205–210 - Foundations of, 210–211 - Probable ages of walls of, xxiii - Chevron pattern, 211–213 - Ground surface of exterior of, 213–215, 449, 450 - N.W. entrance, 216–218 - Plan of, 217 - North entrance, xx, 218–222 - Plan of, 219 - West entrance, 222–224 - Enclosure Nos. 1–7, xxii, 7, 225–236 - Sacred Enclosure, 237–240 - Conical Tower, 240–244 - Small Tower, 244 - Bent on import of, 244, 245 - Dr. Schlichter, do., 245, 246 - Parallel Passage, xx, 246–250 - The Platform, 251, 252 - No. 9 Enclosure, xxii, 253, 254 - 〃 10 〃 xxii, 254, 256 - 〃 11 〃 257–260 - 〃 12 〃 260, 261 - 〃 13 〃 261, 262 - 〃 14 〃 262, 263 - 〃 15 〃 263, 264 - Central Area, xxii, 264, 265 - Platform Area, xxi, xxii, 265–267 - Cement platform, 267 - Inner Parallel Passage, 267–269 - South Passage, 269–271 - West Passage, 272, 273 - N.E. Passage, 273, 274 - Outer Parallel Passage, 274, 275 - - =Eudaemon (Aden)=, 67 - - =Explorations at Zimbabwe=— - Extracts from Reports by author to Government, 437–442 - - =Ezion-geber=, a gold mart, xxxii - Joint port of Jews and Phœnicians, 67 - - - =Finger Rock= (Morgenster), 51 - - =Flux on gold scorifiers=, analysis of, 114 - - =Foreign stones= at Zimbabwe: dolorite, quartz, jasper, serpentine, - calcedony, crystal, metamorphic slate, mica schist, ironstone, - copper ore, flint, 125 - - =Frond Glen=, 51 - - =Fuko-ya-Nebandge=—the Mashonaland relic, 86–88 - - - =Gallois, L.=, attributes the Rhodesian monuments to the Himyarites, - xxxvii - - =Glass finds=— - Venetian, 127 - Arabian, 128 - Dr. Budge’s opinion thereon, 128 - - =Gobele’s kraal=, 60, 71 - - =Gold articles=— - Two periods of gold manufacture at Zimbabwe, xix, xx, 111 - Gold crucibles, 112, 113 - Gold beads, 113 - Beaten gold, 113 - Gold tacks, 113 - Bar and cake gold, 113 - Gold bangles, 114 - Gold scorifiers, 114 - Dr. Hahn’s opinion on, 114, 115 - - =Goruma Hill=, 71 - - =Government notices= to visitors, 3, 433, 434 - - =Grandidier, Alfred=, on the early relations of the Israelites with - Madagascar and the Comoro Islands, xxxvii - - - =Hahn, Dr. P. Daniel=, metallurgical chemist, opinion on gold - scorifiers, 111, 114, 115 - On soil under west wall of temple, xxv, 210, 211 - On metamorphic slate, 257 - - =Haig, General=, on terraced slopes of South Arabia, xxxiv - - =Hand-clapping=, 100 - - =Havilah=, of Scripture, identified with Rhodesia, xxxii, 15, 68 - - =Havilah Camp=, Zimbabwe— - Residence of author, 2, 16 - A day at, 31–50 - Evening at, 48–50 - - =Hayles, Mr. H. H.=, of Victoria, 3 - - =Helm, Dr. John=, of “Morgenster,” 53, 81, 363 - - =Herring-bone pattern=— - Carved, 110 - On wall, 352 - - =Himyarites=, builders of the earliest Rhodesian monuments, xxxii, - xxxvii (note) - Source of their food supplies, xxxiii - Their old Semitic language long survived in Abyssinia (Geez), and - still survives in South Arabia (Ehkili), xli - - =Humours of Explorations=, 48 - - - =I’daha (hemp)= smoking, 45 - - =Idumean Jew=, impression of, xxxvii, 101 - - =Ingot moulds=, double claw-hammer-shaped, 110 - Straight bar moulds, 111 - - =Ingumaruru Hill=, 71 - - =Inner Defence Wall=, 358, 359 - - =Inscription=, the vanished Great Zimbabwe, probably post-Koranic, - xlii - Himyaritic and Phœnician, absence of, on Rhodesian monuments - explained, xxxix-xlii - Searched for, xviii, xix - - =Inventory of Relics and Finds= discovered by author at Zimbabwe, - 442–448 - - =Iron articles= discovered— - Hoes, 116 - Picks, 117 - Chisels, 118 - Spoon, spearhead, lamp-stand, bangles, 118 - “Collars” and “shoes,” 119 - Forked instrument and pincers, 120, 121 - Gongs, 121, 122 - Rod or sceptre, keys (conjectured), 122 - Smelting furnaces, 123 - - =Inyanga district=, its terraced slopes, xxxiv - Its “slave-pits” relatively recent, xxxv - Its terraces dissimilar to Zimbabwe terraces, 354 - - =Inyuni Hills=, 11, 69 - - =Isafuba game=, 32, 43, 44, 45 - Holes on Rusivanga, 425 - Holes at S.E. Ruins, 397 - - =I’zhuba Kuru (Sunday)=, 46 - - - =Jerri’s people=, Barotse tribe, 82 - Lived at Khami Ruins till 1836, 82 - Now live at Jerri Mountains, South Mashonaland, 82 - - - =Kaprazine=, the Monomotapa in 1620, 133 - - =Kafir= (Kaffir), derivation of, 30 - - =Keane, Dr. A. H.=, his solution of the “Gold of Ophir” question, - xxxi-xliii, 3 - - =Khami Ruins= - Jerri’s people (Barotse) lived here till 1836, 82, 121 - Some walls at, similar to Barotse walls in Zimbabwe district, 426 - - - =Livouri Mountains=, 9, 10 - Niande Hill at, 10, 62, 69, 76 - - =Louw, Rev. A. A.=, “Morgenster,” 53, 81 - - =Lovugwe country=, 11 - - =Lumbo Rocks=, 8 - Described, 52 - Stones from, 180 - - =Lumbo kraal=, 88 - - - =Madagascar=, its early relations with the Jews, xxxvii - - =Magdoshu kingdom=, xxvi - - =Mahobohobo trees=, 53, 60, 79, 155 - - =Majerri Ruins=, 65, 73 - - =Makalanga “People of the Sun,”= 80–101 - Appearance of, 2, 6 - Feasts of full moon, 16–24 - Feasts of new moon, 27 - Dread of ruins at night, 19 - Labourers, 31–50 - Letter-runners, 33 - Dual character, 38 - Defilement by touching dead, 43 - =I’daha= smokers, 45 - =Doro= drinkers, 45, 46 - Talking distances, 47 - Blood-cupping, 55 - Sunday, 46 - Mystic Bar, 57 - Chibfuko Hill, veneration of, 59 - Will not disclose ruins, 68 - Light-skinned boy, 73 - Women’s skin pattern, 74, 96 - Where found to-day, 81 - Language polished, 81 - Makalaka, a nickname for, 81, 90 - Once a powerful nation, 80 - At Zimbabwe, sixteenth century, 80 - Excellent stone-builders, 82, 151 - Used ruins as cattle kraals, 83 - Barbosa, refers to, 123, 132, 133 - Check pattern on huts, 74 - Name for Elliptical Temple, 85 - Idea of origin of ruins, 85, 86 - Agricultural and pastoral people, 89, 95 - Intellectual and physical superiority of, 89 - Contact with Portuguese, 90 - Totem of Zimbabwe, 90 - Objects of veneration, 91 - Insects eaten by, 92 - Astronomical ideas, 92 - Sacrifices by, 93, 259, 270 - Burial customs, 94, 95 - Manufactures, 95 - Dress, 96 - Witchcraft, 97 - Harmony, 97 - Proverbs, 98 - Whorls, 99 - Salutations, 100 - Jewish customs, 100, 101 - Of 1514 bartered gold for brass, 123 - Pottery, 40, 41, 129, 130 - Occupied Elliptical Temple until sixty years ago, 254 - - =Makuma Kopje=, 9, 26, 32, 33, 160 - - =Mamba=, or =Mombo=, old dynastic title of Barotse chiefs, 82 - - =Manamuli’s kraal=, 72 - - =Mandarali’s kraal=, 65 - - =Mandindindi’s Ruin=, 71 - - =Mangwa= (Morgenster), 84 - - =Mapaku Ruins= (“Little Zimbabwe”), 7, 11, 60, 63, 292, 428–432 - - =Mapaku kraal=, 70 - - =Mapudzi Stream=, 7, 59, 61, 66 - - =Marosie.= _See_ =Barotse=. - - =Marota’s kraal=, 72 - - =Marsgi Hill= (one of “Sheba’s Breasts”), 11, 66, 69 - - =Mashona=, derivation of, 80 - - =Masua’s kraal=, 63, 95 - - =Masungye=, 84 - - =Mauch, Dr. Karl=, German scientist, 9, 62, 185, 242, 243, 270 - - =Mauch Ruins=, 392–396 - - =Maund Ruins=, “find” at, 110 - Description of, 383–386 - - =Matgwain=, a Barotse, 59 - - =Mazanda= (East Kopje), 64 - - =Mazili River=, 72 - - =Meziro River=, 71, 72 - - =Middle Kopje= (Chamananga), 56 - - =Milton, Sir W. H.=, xxx - - =Mogabe, the=, Handisibishe, 2, 6, 39, 40, 42, 83, 84, 85, 279 - His kraal, 16 - - =Mogabe, the late, Chipfuno=, 6, 55, 84, 218, 279, 333, 355 - - =Mogabe, the late=, Molinye, 84 - - =Mogabe, the late=, Mokomo, 312 - - =Mogoma’s kraal=, 62, 63 - - =Mojejèje= (Mystic Bar), 55, 57 - - =Molembo Tribe=, their Jewish customs, 101 - Metal smiths, 111 - - =Monomotapa, the=, 80, 85 - Kapranzine (1620), 133 - Pedro (1643), 133, 280 - - “=Morgenster Mission=,” 52 - - =Moro!= salutation, origin of, 100 - - =Moscha=, a port of “Ophir,” 67 - - =Moshagashi Valley=, 1, 11 - - =Moshagashi River=, 10, 51, 69 - - =Mowishawasha Valley=, 8, 53 - - =Mowishawasha Hill=, 10, 54, 59 - - =Motelekwe River=, derivation of, 7, 9, 11, 53, 54, 60, 125, 291 - - =Motuminshaba Hill=, 11 - - =Motumi= (a Barotse headman), 58 - His kraal, 58, 59, 63 - - =Motusa (Bentberg)=, 7, 8 - - =M’Tijeni’s kraal=, 11 - - =M’Tima’s kraal=, 10 - - =M’uali= (the chief spirit; in some districts the prophet of the - Deity), 19, 94 - - =Müller, Professor=, on Zimbabwe, 193 - - =Munda= (a Makalanga headman), 73, 74 - - =Mystic Bar.= _See_ =Mojejèje= - - - =N’Djena Valley=, 53 - - =Neal, the late W. G.=, co-author of _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_, - 82 - - =Niande Hill= (Livouri), 10 - - =Nini country=, near Zimbabwe, 9, 61, 62, 84, 85, 95 - - =No. 1 Ruins=, location of, 8, 19 - Description of, 398–410 - - =North-East Passage=, discovered by author in 1902, 273, 274 - - - =Omar l’Wardi= (_circa_ 1200 A.D.) on gold of S.E. Africa, 123 - - =Ophir=, not a gold land but a gold mart, xxxii - Is identified by Oppert with Tharshish, xlii - Dr. Keane, author of _The Gold of_, 5 - - =Oppert, Professor G.=, his solution of the “Tharshish-Ophir” problem - examined, xlii-xliii - - =Outer Defence Wall=, 210, 358, 410 - - =Outer Parallel Passage=, 274, 275 - - =Outspan Ruins=, 279 - Described, 358–362 - - =Output of gold, ancient=, 292 - - - =Paphos=, embossed cylinder from, compared with one from Great - Zimbabwe, xxxix - - =Pasosa Ruins=, 10 - - =Passages=, xx, 156–162 - _At Elliptical Temple_— - Parallel Passage, 246–250 - Inner Parallel Passage, 267, 268 - South Passage, 269–271 - West Passage, 272, 273 - No. 10 Enclosure Passage, 256 - _Passages outside Elliptical Temple_— - Outer Parallel Passage, 274, 275 - N.E. Passage, 273, 274, 390 - _Passages on Zimbabwe Hill_— - S.E. ascent, 279–294 - Central Passage, 321, 322 - Sunken Passage (Eastern Temple), 332 - South Cave Passage, 319 - Covered Passage, 307 - Parallel Passage, 308 - Winding Stairs, 316 - Upper Passage, 316 - East Passage, 316, 317 - Buttress Passage, 317, 318 - South Passage, 320 - Pattern Passage, 338, 339 - N.W. ascent, 344–349 - _In Minor Ruins_— - Outspan Ruins, 360, 361 - Ridge Ruins, 413, 414 - No. 1 Ruins, 402, 406 - _In Valley of Ruins_— - N.E. Passage, 390 - Bent’s Passage, 395 - Posselt Ruins, 370–372 - Philips Ruins, 381 - Maund Ruins, 384 - Mauch Ruins, 393, 395 - Renders Ruins, 390, 391 - _Near Zimbabwe_— - Mapaku Ruins, 430 - - =Pedro=, the Monomotapa in 1643, 133 - - =Petrie, Professor Dr.=, Egyptologist, opinion on pattern on bowl, - 110 - On calcedony beads, 126 - - =Phalli=, 104 - - =Phœnicia=, xxxvii, xxxix, xl, 213, 245 - - =Philips, George=, elephant hunter from Natal, 9, 62 - - =Philips Ruins=, 103, 105, 107, 108, 376–383 - - =Plunket, Hon. E. M.=, on the Babylonian Calendar and Zodiac, xxxviii - - =Posselt, The Brothers=, big-game hunters, resided at Zimbabwe, - 1888–9, 7 - Camp at, 8 - Visited Majerri ruins, 74 - Discover “Fuko-ya-Nebandge,” 86, 87 - Soapstone birds, 333 - - =Posselt Ruins=, 366–375 - - =Pottery=, Barotse, 129 - Makalanga, 129, 130 - Of uncertain date, 130, 131, 132, 436 - - =Providential Pass=, 9 - - - =Relics and “finds”= at Zimbabwe (1902–1904)— - Inventory of, 442, 448 - Descriptions of, 102–134 - Positions and associations of “finds,” sections of floors, 103, 134 - Soapstone articles, 104–111, 333 - Gold articles, 111–115 - Copper articles, 115, 116 - Iron articles, 116, 123 - Brass articles, 123, 124 - Foreign stones, 124–126 - Glass, pottery, and china, 127–132 - Mediæval Arab articles, 132–134 - Arabian glass, 128 - Arabian pottery, 131 - Venetian glass, 127 - Tin, 116 - - =Renders, Adam, “Sa-adama,”= ivory trader, rediscoverer of Zimbabwe, - 9 - Camp at Zimbabwe, 9 - Camp at Nini, 9 - Cave at Chicagomboni, 61 - Death, 62 - - =Renders Ruins=, 386–391 - - =Ridge Ruins=, location of, 8 - Description of, 410–414 - - =Rock Holes Path=, 190, 312 - - =Rugutsi Kopje=, 54 - - =Rumeni Ruin=, 71 - - =Rushumbi Hill=, 72 - - =Rusinga Rocks=, 69 - - =Rusingu=, native name for Elliptical Temple, 85 - - =Rusivanga Kopje=, derivation of, 9 - References to, 125, 137, 189 - Ruins on, 424 - - - “=Sa-adama.=” _See_ =Renders= - - =Sabæans (Himyarites)= of South Arabia, worshipped Almaquah (Venus, - Ashtaroth), 108 - As original builders, 136 - Parallelisms with Sabæan architecture, 193, 194 - - =Sabi (Sabæ, Saba) River=, no native derivation, 67 - Ruins in Sabi Valley, 197, 291 - - =Salutations=, native, 100 - - =Sana=, South Arabia, its decorative art compared with that of the - Rhodesian monuments, xxxvi - - =Sanuto, Livio= (1588), 132 - - =Sayce, Dr. A. H.=, on the Ophir of Scriptures, xxxii - On the Babylonian Zodiac, xxxix - - =Schlichter, Dr.=, German archæologist, 7 - Camp at Zimbabwe, 7 - References to, 198 - On Conical Tower, 245, 246 - On centres of arc walls, 304 - On the Zimbabwe Zodiac, xxxviii - - =Schlichter Gorge=, 7, 11 - Description of, 60, 61, 64 - - =Selous, Mr. F. C.=, big-game hunter, on moulds, 110, 151 - - “=Sheba’s Breasts.=” _See_ =Marsgi= and =Sueba= - - =Skarduza’s kraal=, 72 - - =Soapstone beams=, 104–106 - Birds, 106–108 - Position of birds, 106 - Bowls, 108–111 - Ingot moulds, 110–111 - - =Sofala=, identified with Tharshish, xxxii - Zimbabwe road to, 63, 67, 74 - - =South Arabia=, its terraced slopes, xxxiv - - =South-East Ruins=, 396, 397 - - =Stanley, Sir H. H.=, on double iron gongs used in Upper Congo, 122 - - =Step pattern=, 339 - - =Sueba Hill= (one of “Sheba’s Breasts”), derivation and position, 11, - 66, 72 - - =Suku Dingle=, 56, 187 - - =Swan, the late M. W.=, explorer of Zimbabwe, biographical notice of, - 434, 436 - - - =Tchivi Kopje=, 11 - - =Thabas Imamba=, 82, 91 - - =Tharshish=, probably the present Sofala, xxxii - Identified by Oppert with “Ophir,” xlii - - =Tokwe River=, derivation of, 9 - - - =Valley of Ruins, the=, 3, 363–397, 398–419 - - =Varosie.= _See_ =Barotse= - - =Veroma Range.= _See_ =Beroma= - - =Victoria, township of=, 1, 2, 10, 33, 41 - Native names for, 99 - - =Visitors to Zimbabwe=, regulations, 433 - - - =Washa.= _See_ =Mowishawasha= - - =Water Gate Ruins=, 349–353 - - =Welsh Bardic emblem= (parallelism), 18, 96 - - “=West Wall controversy=,” xxiv-xxvii - - =White, M.E., Mr. Franklin= (Bulawayo), xxx - - =Whorls=, soapstone, 111 - Pottery, 127 - - =Willoughby, Sir John=, xv - On extent of Great Zimbabwe Ruins, xxxiii - Explorations, 8, 135, 137, 170, 190, 191, 222, 234, 400, 414 - - =Wilson, Major Alan=, grave at Zimbabwe, 5, 8, 19 - Removal of remains, 5 - - =Wuwuli Village and Caves=, 54 - - - =Yemen=, South Arabia, 15, 293 - - =Zimbabwe, The Great=— - Derivation of, 1, 85 - Author’s arrival at, 1, 2 - Lord Milner’s visit, 2 - Dr. K. Mauch at, 9 - Bent’s camp at, 3 - Dr. Schlichter at, 7 - Posselt Brothers reside at, 7, 8 - Willoughby’s camp, 8 - Adam Renders’ camp, 9 - George Philips’ camp, 9 - Reserve, map of, 3 - Ruins’ area, plan of, 7 - Bentberg, 7 - Makuma Kopje, 9 - Arab station at, 132–184 - - =Zimbabwe creeper=, 4, 78, 147 - - =Zimbabwe Hill=, 2, 276–362 - - =Zimbabwe revival=, xxix - - =Zimbabwe, Sofala Road=, 63, 74 - - =Zodiac, the Zimbabwe=, its antiquity vindicated, xxxviii - - - PLYMOUTH - WILLIAM BRENDON AND SON, LIMITED - PRINTERS - - -+----------------------------------------------------------------------+ -| | -| FOOTNOTES: | -| | -| [1] The major portion of this Preface was read before the British | -| Association at Cambridge, August 17, 1904. | -| | -| [2] Stanford, 1901. | -| | -| [3] On this crucial point I am glad to find myself in accord | -| with Dr. A. H. Sayce, who has independently arrived at the same | -| conclusion. “There is no gold in Southern Arabia,” he writes, “and | -| consequently Ophir must have been an emporium to which the gold was | -| brought for transhipment from elsewhere” _The Early History of the | -| Hebrews_, 1897, p. 463). | -| | -| [4] Somewhat similar terraced slopes are to be found in the | -| Lydenburg district of Transvaal Colony. | -| | -| [5] See _Lundi Ruins_, in _Ancient Ruins_, p. 178. | -| | -| [6] So also M. L. Gallois, in a review of _The Gold of Ophir_, | -| contributed to the _Annales de Géographie_ for September 15, 1902: | -| “Ces monuments de l’Afrique du Sud ont _une parenté certaine_, avec | -| les monuments himyarites de l’Arabie méridionale. Les hommes qui | -| ont construit les forteresses de la Rhodesia venaient, portés par | -| la mousson, de la côte méridionale d’Arabie chercher l’or du Manica | -| et du Mashona.” | -| | -| [7] _Babel und Bibel_, p. 44. | -| | -| [8] _Assyria_, pp. 110, 116. | -| | -| [9] _Gold of Ophir_, p. 6. | -| | -| [10] _Ruined Cities_, p. 167. | -| | -| [11] And, it may be asked, in the above-quoted passage from 1 | -| Kings, does the expression “ships of Tharshish” mean “ships of | -| the sea”? The Hebrew text has אֳנִיּוֹת תַּרְשִׁישׁ, “ships of Tharshish.” | -| And if for Tharshish we substitute Ophir—Oppert’s alternative | -| suggestion—we get nonsense; “ships of Ophir go to Ophir.” Even the | -| “higher critics” will scarcely accept this. | -| | -| [12] _Das Problem scheint jetzt in der That gëlost_ (No. 19, 1902, | -| p. 357). | -| | -| [13] Correctly, _Zim-bāb-gi_ (_zimba_, pl. buildings; _mābgi_, pl. | -| stones), words in common use in _Chicaranga_, the language of the | -| Makalanga. Authorities on _Chicaranga_ agree that _zimba_, though | -| applying to dwellings, is also applied to buildings which are not | -| dwellings. | -| | -| [14] See _Appendix_, Note A. Government Notice, No. 103 of 1904, | -| “Great Zimbabwe, Notice to Visitors, with Regulations.” | -| | -| [15] Remains removed to Matoppas, 1904. | -| | -| [16] Correctly, _Motirikoi_ (_Chicaranga_, “a river that rises | -| suddenly”). | -| | -| [17] Correctly, _Togue_ (passive); in _Chicaranga_, “a river where | -| people are swept away.” The _Togue_ is a strong and fast-running | -| river. | -| | -| [18] In _Chicaranga_, “the hill of those who ran away.” | -| | -| [19] “Black.” | -| | -| [20] Chewers, probably of tobacco. | -| | -| [21] Usually but wrongly spelt _Kaffir_. It is the Arabic كافِر, | -| Káfir = Infidel, Unbeliever, applied indifferently to all | -| non-Mohammedan peoples, hence has no ethnical significance. | -| | -| [22] In _Chicaranga_ the Zulu _l_ becomes _r_. The Sebele _l_ in | -| _Abolse_ (see pp. 3, 17, 133, 134, and 191 _The Ancient Ruins_, 2nd | -| edition) becomes _r_—or _Barose_, _Barotse_, etc. | -| | -| [23] The Mogabe Handisibishe is called _Benzi_, “the quarrelsome | -| man,” owing to his frequent quarrellings with the chiefs of other | -| Makalanga tribes. | -| | -| [24] See also Isafuba, _Ancient Ruins_, pp. 79, 80, 140, 152, 268. | -| | -| [25] Waterfall (_Chicaranga_). | -| | -| [26] Bingura’s people are Amangwa. | -| | -| [27] _Mashona_, probably a corruption of _Mashuli_, _Mahuli_, | -| “slaves,” is the name by which the Makalanga are known to the | -| whites; hence “Mashonaland,” the now established name of their | -| territory, which should properly be _Makalangaland_. | -| | -| [28] _Barotse_, _Barose_, _Marose_, and _Varose_ are all variant | -| forms of _Baharutse_, who appear to be the original stock of the | -| Bechuana nation, hence are regarded by all the other branches of | -| the family as their “elder brothers.” | -| | -| [29] The proper totem of the Barotse people is the _Chuene_ (Cape | -| baboon), but sub-tribes of Barotse each have also a totem of their | -| own. The _Mamba_ (puff-adder) was the totem of the Barotse of | -| Thabas I’Mamba districts. | -| | -| [30] Coillard, pp. 220, 224, and 333. | -| | -| [31] See Dr. Keane’s Introduction to this volume; also _The Gold | -| of Ophir_; also M. Grandidier’s work on the Sabæan, Phœnician, and | -| Idumean Jew influences on South-East Africa and Madagascar; and | -| _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_ (2nd edition). | -| | -| [32] See _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_, 2nd edition, pp. 141–3, | -| for descriptions of relics found at Zimbabwe in 1891 and 1892. | -| See Appendix hereto, Note F, for inventory of relics found by the | -| author at Zimbabwe, 1902–4. | -| | -| [33] All the birds found at Zimbabwe either by Mr. Bent and the | -| author were discovered occupying an eastern position, cut off from | -| south-west, west, and north by cliffs or large and high walls. | -| | -| [34] Professor Dr. Flinders Petrie informs the author that this | -| pattern is decidedly of Eastern origin, possibly Assyrian. | -| | -| [35] See also _Preface_, “Two Periods of Gold Manufacture at | -| Zimbabwe.” | -| | -| [36] Dr. Flinders Petrie has informed the author that calcedony | -| beads, identical in shape and size to those found in ruins in | -| Rhodesia, are of mediæval Arab origin. | -| | -| [37] Dr. Budge, Head Keeper of Egyptian and Assyrian Antiquities | -| at the British Museum, considers this glass to belong to the | -| thirteenth or fourteenth century of this era. | -| | -| [38] The author is preparing a monograph on the pottery of the | -| Barotse and Makalanga. | -| | -| [39] See Note C, Appendix to this volume, which gives a fuller | -| description of this “find.” | -| | -| [40] For descriptions of ancient architecture in the ruins of | -| Rhodesia generally, see _The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_ (2nd | -| edition), Chapter XII. | -| | -| [41] For a probable explanation of the absence of inscriptions, see | -| Dr. Keane’s Introduction to this volume. | -| | -| [42] See Preface. | -| | -| [43] Figures in round brackets are points of the circumference of | -| the interior face of the main wall measured from the south side of | -| the west entrance and going south. | -| | -| [44] This has now been discovered. It had been removed by relic | -| hunters in 1892. | -| | -| [45] Since the above was written further exploration in the ruins | -| shows several lengths of these granite cement dadoes, one 16 ft. | -| and another 33 ft. long, still intact. Cement dadoes have also | -| been found round the faces of buttresses and on the side walls of | -| entrances, thus reducing the width of such passage-ways by at least | -| 5 in. | -| | -| [46] Most of the Sabæan temples were round. _El Masoudi_ (940 A.D.). | -| | -| [47] All the birds found at Zimbabwe occupied eastward positions. | -| | -| [48] For _Areas of varying styles of Ancient Architecture_ see | -| _Ancient Ruins_, p. 164, section (a). | -| | -| [49] See Preface, _West Wall Controversy_. | -| | -| [50] _Report on the examination and analysis of No. 2 Sample of | -| mineral._—This was a sample of powdery, earthy mineral. One-half of | -| it has been assayed with the view to the presence of gold, and was | -| found to contain 1½ dwts. of gold per ton. The other portion has | -| been analysed as to its chemical composition, which was found to be | -| as follows: | -| | -| Silica 73·18 % | -| Oxide of Iron 17·83 〃 | -| Alumina 8·98 〃 | -| Lime Trace. | -| | -| This powdery earth is most probably formed through the | -| disintegration of the slag and furnace ashes, which make an | -| excellent foundation for the floor of a large building. On exposure | -| to the action of the weather it crumbles to powder. | -| | -| P. DANIEL HAHN, PH.D, M.A., | -| Professor of Chemistry. | -| | -| [51] See Appendix, Note G, as to formation rock under the temple. | -| | -| [52] See _Frontispiece_. | -| | -| [53] Several independent astronomical calculations point to the age | -| of the Elliptical Temple being from 1100 to 1300 years B.C. | -| | -| [54] This has been now found by the author. It had been removed in | -| 1892 by relic hunters. | -| | -| [55] _Report on the examination and analysis of No. 1 sample of | -| minerals_:— | -| | -| This was a piece of metamorphic slate, such as may be found in the | -| vicinity of the contact-zone of clay slate and granite or other | -| crystalline rock. Its composition does not present any peculiar | -| features. | -| | -| P. DANIEL HAHN, PH.D., M.A. | -| _Professor of Chemistry, South African College | -| Chemical and Metallurgical Laboratory._ | -| | -| [56] Two rounded buttresses are built on the larger buttress, and | -| are against the summit of this wall. | -| | -| [57] Discovered 1902. | -| | -| [58] For description of these ruins, see p. 358. | -| | -| [59] _Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia_ (2nd edition). | -| | -| [60] See Author’s Report on _Slanting Monolith_, Note E, Appendix. | -| | -| [61] The author was the first to break through the old habit of | -| bestowing misleading or suggestive titles to various architectural | -| features. These recesses unfortunately have thus always been known | -| as “buttresses.” A long list of such incorrect titles could easily | -| be compiled from printed descriptions of ruins. | -| | -| [62] The author has since discovered similar recesses elsewhere at | -| Zimbabwe. | -| | -+----------------------------------------------------------------------+ - - - _Price 10s. 6d. net. With seventy illustrations._ - - THE - ANCIENT RUINS OF RHODESIA - - BY - W. G. NEAL AND R. N. HALL - - SECOND AND ENLARGED EDITION - - LONDON: METHUEN & CO. - - -Transcriber’s Notes: - - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equals is in bold font (=bold=). - - Blank pages have been removed. - - Advertisement has been moved to the back. - - Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. - - Some spelling and hyphenation variations have been made consistent. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia, by -Richard Nicklin Hall - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GREAT ZIMBABWE, MASHONALAND, RHODESIA *** - -***** This file should be named 62501-0.txt or 62501-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/2/5/0/62501/ - -Produced by MFR, Robert Tonsing, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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